TERRY’S GUIDE-BOOKS 
 
 AND OTHER PUBLICATIONS 
 
 Terry’s Guide to the Japanese Empire, including Korea (Chosen) and 
 Formosa (Taiwan), with Chapters on Manchuria, the Overland Route to Peking, 
 The Trans-Siberian Railway, Hawaii and the Chief Ocean Routes to Japan. 
 8 specially drawn maps and 21 plans. Pocket size. Flexible covers. 1080 pages. 
 Price $5.00, American money; ten yen, Japanese money. 
 
 Historical — Descriptive — Practical — Trustworthy and Immensely Useful. In- 
 dispensable to the traveler who would see all there is worth seeing in Japan in the 
 best manner, the shortest time and with the least outlay of money. Every city, 
 town, village, railway, temple, museum, picture gallery, public building and place 
 of any importance is described carefully and accurately. 
 
 A companion book to the Mexico Guide, with ample and illuminating notes 
 on Geography, Language, Literature, History, Architecture, Art, the People and 
 their Homes, Crafts, Customs, Sports and Religions, the Imperial Family and 
 the Government and Its Functions. Likewise instructive Monograms on How 
 to Reach Japan, Traveling Expenses, Money,^ Guides, Seasons, Climate, Hotels 
 and Inns, Food, Tips, Plan of Tour, Health, What to Wear, Photography, Hunt- 
 ing and Fishing, Automobiling, Mt. Climbing, Shops, Curios, and on many other 
 subjects of interest. The economically disposed will find many money-saving 
 hints scattered through the book, and whosoever essays to do Japan without it will 
 spend considerably more time, energy and money than are necessary to the pur- 
 pose. 
 
 The Book Will Save Its Cost the First Day it is Used. 
 
 Terry’s Guide to Mexico. A companion book to the foregoing. New and 
 strictly down-to-date. 845 pages, 29 maps and plans. Price $3.50, American 
 money. 
 
 Terry’s Handbook of Mexico. An outline sketch of the country, its people 
 and their history from the earliest times to the present. With colored map. 
 Price $1.00. 
 
 Terry’s Short Cut to Spanish. A New, Easy and Quick Method for Learn- 
 ing the Spanish Language as Spoken in Spanish-America and in Spain; combined 
 with a Pronouncing Phrase-Book for English-Speaking Travelers in Spanish- 
 speaking Countries. 543 pages. Price, cloth binding, $2.50. Leather, $3.50. 
 
 For a detailed description of this book see the opposite page. 
 
 Terry’s Spanish-English Pocket Interpreter, with a phonetic pronuncia- 
 tion of each word. A handy interpreter for English-speaking travelers in Spanish- 
 speaking countries, and Spanish-speaking travelers in English-speaking countries. 
 140 pages. Price 50 cents. 
 
 FOR SALE EVERYWHERE 
 
 Sent postpaid, on receipt of price, by 
 
 Houghton Mifflin Co , 4 Park St., Boston, or New York City. 
 
 Brentano’s, or Thos. Cook & Sons, New York City. 
 
 Constable & Co., Ltd., London. 
 
 Sonora News Co., Laredo, Texas; Nogales, Arizona; Mexico City, Tampico, or 
 Monterey, Mexico. Kyo-Bun-Kwan, Ginza, Shichome, Tokyo, Japan. 
 
wo 
 
 TERRY’S 
 
 THE AZTEO LAND 
 
 iGEKS t SJEXfHS CURIOS 
 f 1. WAOfcflU 24 - M£xice 
 
 SHORT CUT TO SPANISH 
 
 Is Simple, Practical, Useful. Designed for self-study. 
 
 Terry’s Short Cut to Spanish specializes on the Spanish of Mexico, 
 
 Cuba, Venezuela, Chile, Peru, the Argentine and adjacent countries, and it is 
 absolutely essential to an intelligent understanding of the Spanish spoken there. 
 
 The Plan of the Book differs radically from other methods. Simplicity 
 and practicality have been the aim; a quick mastery of language rather than a 
 slow and toilsome acquisition of literature. By a remarkably simple and easy 
 method of self-study, the busy man can, without the aid of any teacher, 
 learn to read, write, understand and speak well and fluently the idiomatic and 
 commercial Spanish of Spanish-America and Spain in about one-fourth the 
 time usually required for such an accomplishment. 
 
 The Unique and Veritable Short Cuts to a Spanish Vocabulary show one 
 how to acquire and retain thousands of Spanish words with little or no mental 
 effort. Hundreds can be learned in a day, and by rules so simple that it is diffi- 
 cult to forget them. During twelve years of travel and residence in Spanish- 
 speaking countries the author made a special study of the difficulties which an 
 English-speaking person encounters in learning Spanish, and these perplexities have 
 been clarified and rendered easy. 
 
 Spanish Correspondence. The section devoted to this important matter will 
 prove invaluable to the business man who may wish to write to his Mexican 
 or other Spanish-American customers in their own language. The book con- 
 tains more carefully selected commercial terms than any other of its 
 class, each term an aid in the construction of commercial or social correspond- 
 ence. With them at hand almost any one can read a Spanish letter, or write, 
 at once, a very creditable one. 
 
 The Phrase Section. Here the words have been arranged with scrupulous 
 attention to the needs of the social or commercial traveler or resident in Spanish- 
 America and Spain. Along with the phrases are hundreds of appropriate key 
 words, with simple instructions how to incorporate them in other statements, 
 questions and answers for use in conversation or correspondence. Scores of sub- 
 jects, such as Buying and Selling, Traveling, Hotels, Railways, Food, 
 Money, etc., etc., are treated in such detail that a person with no knowledge 
 whatsoever of Spanish can travel, stop at hotels, meet people in a business or 
 social way, sell or buy goods, etc., and get along almost as well as if he were a 
 master of the language. Scattered through this section is a mass of varied com- 
 mercial data in Spanish and English without which trade in Spanish-America 
 cannot be conducted. 
 
 The different sections of the book form a condensed, down-to-date 
 grammar, dictionary, phrase and reference book of peculiar utility and 
 worth. As a ready interpreter fulfilling an immediate need, the phrase section is 
 more than temporary in its benefits. For when the words and phrases have been 
 employed a number of times they become familiar to the eye, the ear and the 
 tongue, and, like an oft-whistled tune, they remain impressed upon the mind. 
 The tongue gains facility in the act of utterance, and the Spanish words and 
 phrases thus are learned without mental effort. 
 
 Price: Cloth, $2.50; Leather, $3.50. Printed on fine paper, in clear, 
 
 readable type. Pocket size. 550 pages. Publishers, Houghton Mifflin Co., 
 Boston and New York. Sonora News Co., Mexico. 
 
 For sale at all bookstores. 
 
PRESS OPINIONS OF 
 
 Terry’s Guide to Japan 
 
 The following critical opinions are excerpts taken from hundreds 
 of newspaper and magazine reviews throughout the world: — 
 
 “Terry’s ‘Japanese Empire’ is the Imperator of modern guidebooks. It is like a 
 trip abroad, and it beats ten trippers’ tales that read like guidebooks.” — Life. 
 
 “Recognized by experts as the best thing of its kind in print, far surpassing 
 Murray in accuracy and completeness. . . . Invaluable to the tourist. . . . 
 The book may bp warmly commended.” — San Francisco Chronicle. 
 
 “This book is unsurpassed.” — New York Japan Review. 
 
 “We could scarcely imagine anything more comprehensive and compact. . . . 
 As a guidebook it seems as complete as anything possible.” — Los Angeles Times. 
 
 “A more comprehensive provision for the travelers’ needs does not exist.” — 
 Boston Herald. 
 
 “The most complete guidebook ever issued on the Japanese Empire.” — 
 Philadelphia Star. 
 
 “Amazingly full and complete. ... It is hard to imagine any information 
 which anybody intending to tour Japan would need that is not in this volume.” — 
 Duluth (if inn.) Herald. 
 
 “Terry’s ‘Japanese Empire’ has been enthusiastically received both by travelers 
 and scholars.” — Evening Star, Newark, N. J. 
 
 “Mr. Terry’s unusually satisfactory guidebook will be an encouragement to 
 many to make the trip to the Mikado’s Empire.” — Pioneer Press, St. Paul , Minn. 
 
 “This book is so scientific that it makes the average guidebook retreat into the 
 shade. It can stand comparison anywhere.” — Oregonian, Portland, Oregon. 
 
 “A late issue of those excellent Terry guides. ... A compact and compre- 
 hensive traveler’s guide to the Japanese Empire.” — Review of Reviews. 
 
 “A complete and valuable guidebook for travelers. . . . Everything that the 
 traveler could possibly need in the way of accurate information.” — Book News 
 Monthly. 
 
 “Contains a surprising amount of varied information that must prove excep- 
 tionally helpful to the Japanese traveler. And its honesty is as commendable 
 as its wealth of facts.” — Chicago Herald. 
 
 “Terry’s ‘Japanese Empire’ is ‘eleven-tenths of the whole thing,’ as the Chinese 
 say. It out-distances all competitors. Only a long resident, with a special com- 
 petency for writing such a book, possessed of industry, discrimination, penetra- 
 tion, sympathy and justice, could have produced such a volume.” — Dr. William 
 Elliot Griffis, in The Atlantic Monthly. 
 
 “Nothing has been left unsaid that could conduce to the comfort and safety of 
 travelers or to make Japanese travel as easy as travel in any other part of the 
 world. . . . This guidebook contains everything that the traveler can need, 
 while its value to the reference shelf is too obvious to need indication. . . . Mr. 
 Terry is to be congratulated on the production of a work that is unique both in 
 content and preparation, a model of lucidity and conciseness.” — San Francisco 
 Argonaut. 
 
 “The value of the book does not wholly lie in its usefulness as a traveler’s com- 
 
 J anion. It is equally valuable for the bookshelf, for it gives such details of things 
 apanese as to constitute it a book of reference.” — Boston Transcript. 
 
 “This is the book for the traveler in Japan. It has no rival.” — Christian 
 Intelligencer. 
 
 “A handsome and elaborate guidebook containing everything an ordinary 
 traveler wants to know.” — New York World. 
 
CRITICAL OPINIONS OF TERRY’S MEXICO 
 
 “A very extraordinary guidebook. A very unusual achievement.” — New Yoik 
 Bookman. 
 
 ‘‘It is not only a work of the greatest value for a traveler, but one that will find 
 an important place in any reference library.” — Cincinnati Times-Star. 
 
 “What Baedeker did for the countries of Europe, Mr. T. Philip Terry did for 
 Mexico in preparing an accurate and complete guidebook to that country. lie 
 has now surpassed this difficult task by issuing Terry’s ‘Japanese Empire’ . . 
 a book that should be in the gripsack of every tourist.” — Chicago Tribune. 
 
 “Aided by the use of thin but good paper, the author and publishers have 
 packed a really astonishing amount of information into a volume that just com- 
 fortably fits the hand. The result is a guidebook dealing substantially with a 
 great diversity of things. The three It’s of the ordinary guidebook— routes, 
 rates and recreations — are supplemented by admirable little essays on art, archi- 
 tecture, language, religion, etc. . . . The writer knows his business, as he knows 
 his Japan, and his laborious and conscientious work should be eagerly welcomed 
 by all who contemplate travel through or residence in this most interesting part 
 of the world. Terry’s ‘Mexico’ is the standard guide to that country, and is the only 
 case where a Baedeker has been successfully emulated.” — Scientific American. 
 
 “Its information is full and comprehensive on a great variety of topics, show- 
 ing the fruits of long familiarity and of industrious personal investigation. It 
 has been brought well up to date. . . . There is a wealth of interesting and useful 
 information upon all kinds of subjects in the 283 pages of preliminary matter with 
 which the book begins, and it is evidently based on knowledge at first hand ac- 
 quired during the author’s twelve years’ residence and journeying in the country. 
 It treats methodically of almost everything concerning which the curiosity of 
 intending travelers is likely to be aroused. . . . The book is a serious and useful 
 work, and we would recommend English travelers, about to visit Japan, to take it 
 with them.” — The Times , London. 
 
 “Sure of wide use and appreciation. It is remarkably thorough and compact, 
 liberally supplied with excellent maps, and full of information not only as to the 
 practical side of travel, but also to the various matters that claim the traveler’s 
 interest, such as Japanese art, language, literature, customs, sport and scenery.” 
 — Illustrated London News. 
 
 “Japan and its people form the fascinating theme of many books of travel, 
 description and study, but there are very few really reliable and authentic guide- 
 books of the country, presenting essential facts and information. This new book 
 does; very fully and carefully. Japan is changing rapidly in many ways; infor- 
 mation that was sufficient and accurate a few years ago, would today mislead the 
 traveler, and this gives value to Mr. Terry’s book, which is the recent work of an 
 experienced traveler and keen observer. . . . It is all a guidebook should be. . . . 
 The maps and plans specially prepared for his book are a valuable feature, and 
 the production reflects great credit on the publishers.” — Thos. Cook & Sons 
 Travelers ’ Gazette. 
 
 “Whatever else he may do, the traveler in Japan or intending to visit it must hence- 
 forth do one thing — get Mr. T. Philip Terry’s guidebook. There is practically nothing 
 relating to travel in Japan, Korea and Formosa that this admirable and really remark- 
 able work does not tell him. Written on the time-tried lines of Baedeker, its thorough- 
 ness, clearness and painstaking regard for accuracy place it entirely on a level with 
 even the best of that world-renowned series. The author, having spent ten years in the 
 country, is specially qualified for his difficult task. The result is a book which, if 
 studied in advance and carried with one, will smooth away many a difficulty, and 
 immensely increase the interest and benefit of one’s visit. . . . Mr. Terry’s book is 
 pre-eminently practical. ... A vast amount of extremely interesting information 
 most of which anyone might read with profit, but which, to the traveler about to set 
 out for Japan is really invaluable. . . Mr Terry is to be warmly congratulated on 
 bis work. Time and change make the absolutely perfect guidebook impossible, but 
 he has come as near to achieving it as anyone is ever likely to do. Not only wall his 
 guidebook fulfill the test of saving its cost in a day, but it will also place within the 
 traveler’s reach practically everything essential to the intelligent comprehension of 
 Japan and its people ” — Montreal Daily Star. 
 
MEXICO 
 
 u World wrongly called the new ! this clime was old 
 When first the Spaniard came, in search of gold. 
 Age after age its shadowy wings had spread, 
 
 And man was born, and gathered to the dead ; 
 
 Cities arose, ruled, dwindled to decay, 
 
 Empires were formed, then darkly swept away: 
 Race followed race, like cloud-shades o’er the field, 
 The stranger still to strangers doomed to yield. 
 
 The last grand line that swaj r ed these hills and wav< 
 Like Israel, wandered long 'mid wilds and caves, 
 Then, settling in their Canaan, cities reared, 
 
 Fair Science wooed, a milder God revered, 
 
 Till to invading Europe bowed their pride, 
 
 And pomp, art, power, with Montezuma died.” 
 
TERRY’S 
 
 GUIDE TO 
 
 MEXICO 
 
 THE NEW STANDARD GUIDEBOOK 
 
 TO THE 
 
 MEXICAN REPUBLIC 
 
 WITH CHAPTERS ON 
 
 CUBA, THE BAHAMA ISLANDS 
 
 AND THE 
 
 OCEAN ROUTES TO MEXICO 
 With 2 Maps and 27 Plans 
 
 BY 
 
 T. PHILIP TERRY, F.R.G.S. 
 
 Author of terry’s guide to the Japanese empire; terry’s 
 
 SHORT CUT TO SPANISH*, TERRY’S SPANISH-ENGLISH 
 
 pocket interpreter; etc. 
 
 Revised Edition, Remodelled and Augmented 
 
 BOSTON AND NEW YORK 
 
 HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY 
 
 MEXICO*. SONORA NEWS COMPANY 
 MEXICO CITY AND TAMPICO 
 LONDON: GAY AND HANCOCK, LTD. 
 
 1923 
 
 All rights reserved 
 
COPYRIGHT, 1909 AND 1922, BY T. PHILIP TERRY 
 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 
 ES PROPIEDAD EN MEXICO 
 QUEDA HECHO EL DEPOSITO QUE MARCA LA LEY 
 
 XTfje &ibersiit>c 
 
 CAMBRIDGE i MASSACHUSETTS 
 PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. 
 
FOREWORD 
 
 Although Mexico lies contiguous to the United States it 
 is much less accurately known to Americans than its im- 
 portance warrants. It is a winsome, sunlit land; artistic, 
 intellectual, extraordinarily picturesque, and with a char- 
 acter and individuality peculiarly interesting to the 
 thoughtful traveller. Those who visit the Republic for 
 the first time usually are charmed by its physical beauty, 
 its quaint cities and towns, its almost perfect climate, and 
 the beguiling permanency of its azure skies. In point of 
 picturesqueness and historical interest Mexico has few 
 equals. It is a felicitous blend of the cold North and the 
 lower tropics; of Persia, India, Arabia, Spain and the Holy 
 Land; a country where travel is cheap, comfortable and 
 safe, where the people are amiable, friendly and helpful, 
 and where life presents an aspect of tranquillity distinctly 
 appealing to the hurried northerner. 
 
 Few countries have had a more interesting past. An 
 enlightened civilization dwelt in palatial cities in Mexico 
 in the opening years of the Christian era, and the palaces, 
 temples and pyramids of those shadowy races — per- 
 chance the first Americans — still exist, wonderfully pre- 
 served, to puzzle the historian and delight the traveller. 
 M hen the bold Spanish conquistadores disrupted the 
 bizarre Indian Confederacy which ruled (in 1519) in the 
 Valley of Mexico, they slew poets and philosophers whose 
 wise sayings are still current in the vernacular, and whose 
 odes constitute the epic poems of the people of to-day. A 
 church for the worship of the Christian faith was com- 
 pleted in Mexico City in 1525 — just at the time when 
 the monk Miles Coverdale was translating “The Great 
 Bible” into the English language. Painting was taught 
 there in 1521, or 99 years before the Pilgrims landed on 
 Plymouth Rock; and books, music, and wood-engravings 
 were printed on a press brought from Spain in 1536, many 
 years before William Shakespere was born, and more than 
 a century before the first printing-press was established at 
 Cambridge. Marble palaces housed Mexican emperors 
 while red Indians still shifted their wigwams across the 
 
IV 
 
 FOREWORD 
 
 face of North America, and the present City of Mexico 
 was rising from the ruins of Montezuma’s capital ninety- 
 three } r ears before the Dutch bought Manhattan Island 
 from the Five Nations. 
 
 A meritorious Guidebook, by showing the careful 
 traveller how to obtain the best returns for his money and 
 time, should save its cost the first day it is used, and we 
 hope, and believe, such may be the case with this one. 
 The aim has been to present in one handy and compact 
 volume, an unusual amount of practical, helpful and un- 
 biased information about Mexico and its people, yet by 
 avoiding bleakness and stodginess to make that informa- 
 tion as interesting as possible compatible with, brevity 
 and exactness. Nearly twelve years of residence in the 
 country, and repeated journeys from one end of it to the 
 other, have qualified us to describe the things and places 
 really worth seeing, and to advise the traveller how to see 
 them with a minimum outlay of energy and money. In 
 securing our information about the country we have been 
 unwilling to accept the reports of others; preferring in 
 every case to go personally to the source, secure data at 
 first hand, and thus be able to inspire the traveller with 
 confidence in its accuracy. The economically inclined will 
 find many money-saving hints scattered through the 
 book, and whosoever essays to do Mexico without it will 
 spend considerably more time, effort and money than are 
 necessarjr to the purpose. In no single instance have the 
 material interests of the traveller been sacrificed to the 
 selfish benefit of others. 
 
 In the 250 pages of introductory matter under the 
 heading, Preliminary Information, an effort has been 
 made to interpret many things Mexican of interest to the 
 traveller, and to aid him to a quick and satisfactory under- 
 standing of them. This special knowledge will be found 
 great ly to enhance the pleasure of a visit to Mexico. The 
 monographs on Travelling Expenses, Money, Hotels, 
 Tips, Plan of Tour, Seasons, Health, Hints to Travellers, 
 Climate, Shops and Curios, Photography, Physiography, 
 Language, Literature, Architecture, Ruined Cities, Native 
 Races, Churches, Mines, Oil Fields, the Government 
 and its Functions; the People and their Homes, Arts, 
 Customs, Religion and History; and the scores of minor 
 subjects, will be found of immediate and permanent 
 
FOREWORD 
 
 v 
 
 value. The dispassionate estimates of Mexico and the 
 Mexicans are believed to be just. The monograph on 
 Mexican Art and Painters is the most complete that has 
 been written on this interesting subject, and it will mate- 
 rially aid the traveller to an intelligent appreciation of the 
 fine pictures still to be found in Mexico, and of the art 
 which flourished many decades before the first white set- 
 tlers sailed for the shores of North America. 
 
 Those unfamiliar with the Spanish language will find 
 the chapter at page xvii of genuine value. Likewise the 
 vernacular equivalents of many English words in the text. 
 
 The contents of the Guidebook are divided into Ten 
 Sections: I. North-Eastern Mexico; II. North-Central 
 Mexico; III. North-Western Mexico; IV. Central Mex- 
 ico; V. Central-Western Mexico; VI. City and Valley of 
 Mexico; VII. South-Western Mexico; VIII. South- 
 Eastern Mexico; IX. Southern Mexico; X. The Penin- 
 sula of Yucatan. To each section is prefixed a list of sub- 
 jects or the routes it contains, so that each forms approxi- 
 mately a complete volume, apart from the general table 
 of contents or the general index. 
 
 The Chapter on The Bahamas and Cuba is meant to be 
 of service to the many travellers who go to Mexico by sea 
 and who stop at those interesting places. 
 
 The Maps and Plans were drawn specially for the 
 book, and they are the newest and most complete extant. 
 Most of the city plans appear now for the first time in 
 any guidebook, and they are uniquely valuable to the 
 traveller. 
 
 Mexico is making such rapid progress that it is difficult 
 to ensure abiding accuracy in such details as hotels, prices, 
 etc., since they are apt to change between editions. Hotels 
 often change in name, management, and in the treatment 
 of guests. Wars send prices up, and competition reduces 
 them. As it is the intention to keep the present book 
 abreast of events, the author will genuinely appreciate 
 criticisms, corrections or suggestions with which observ- 
 ant persons may favor him; especially those that will en- 
 able travellers to get the best return for their money and 
 time. Such communications should be addressed to us at 
 Hingham, Massachusetts, U. S. A. Hotelmen and others 
 are warned against persons representing themselves as 
 agents for Terry's Guidebooks and other publications. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 Introduction. 
 
 Page 
 
 I. Travelling Expenses. Money. Passports. Cus- 
 tom-House. Language xi 
 
 II. Plan of Tour. Seasons. Climate. Health. 
 
 What to Wear xxiid 
 
 III. Railways. Steamships. Tramways. Diligences. 
 
 Automobiles. Horses. Burros. Highways xxxi 
 
 The Bahama Islands; Nassau xxxvia 
 
 The Island of Cuba: Havana xxxvic 
 
 IV. Post-Office. Telegraph-Office. Telephones. 
 
 Weights and Measures. Time xli 
 
 V. Hotels. Boarding-Houses. Cafes. Baths. Car- 
 
 gadores xlviii 
 
 VI. Towns. Houses. Rents. Landlords. Stamp 
 
 Tax. Servants. Gratuities liii 
 
 VII. Population. Intercourse with the People. 
 
 Public Security. Beggars. Thieves ... lx 
 
 VIII. Shops. Guides. Drawn-Linen. Pottery. Cigars 
 
 and Tobacco .... lxix 
 
 IX. Hunting and Fishing. Photography . . . lxxvii 
 
 X. Cacti. Mescal. Tequila. Aguardiente. Pulque lxxxi 
 
 XI. Mines. Opals. Jade. Turquois. Malachite. Onyx lxxxviii 
 
 XII. Theatres. Bull-Fights. Cock-Fights. Juego de 
 Pelota. Museums and Picture Galleries. 
 Churches. Holidays xcvi 
 
 XIII. Physiography: — Area. Boundaries. The Mexi- 
 
 can States. Government. Army and Navy. 
 Mountains. Lakes, Rivers, Gulf of Mexico cxxi 
 
 XIV. Historical Sketch of Art in Mexico before and 
 
 after the Conquest cxxviii 
 
 XV. History and Races clxii 
 
 XVI. Chronological Table of the Chief Events in 
 
 Mexican History ccxxxv 
 
 XVII. Bibliography ccxlvii 
 
 I. North-Eastern Mexico 1 
 
 Route 
 
 1. From Laredo (Texas), via Monterey and Sal- 
 tillo, to San Luis Potosf (Queretaro and Mexico 
 
 City) 1 
 
 2. Monterey 5 
 
 3. From Monterey to Tampico 11 
 
 From Monterey to Matamoros, Brownsville . 12 
 
 4. Saltillo 12 
 
 5. San Luis Potosf 17 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 vii 
 
 Page 
 
 II. North-Central Mexico 22 
 
 Route 
 
 6. From Ciudad Juarez (El Paso), via Chihuahua, 
 
 Torreon and Zacatecas, to Aguascalientes (Leon, 
 Silao, Irapuato, Celaya, Queretaro and Mexico 
 City) 23 
 
 7. Chihuahua 25 
 
 8. Torreon 35 
 
 From Torreon to Monterey, thence to Tampico 36 
 
 9. Zacatecas 38 
 
 10. Aguascalientes 45 
 
 11. From Aguascalientes to Tampico 48 
 
 Tampico 50 
 
 12. From Ciudad Juarez to Nuevas Casas Grandes . 51 
 
 13. From Presidio del Norte, via Chihuahua, to To- 
 
 polobampo 56 
 
 14. From Chihuahua to Minaca 63 
 
 15. From Jimenez, via Parral, to Rosario .... 63 
 
 16. Parral . » 64 
 
 III. North-Western Mexico 69 
 
 17. From Douglas (Arizona) to Nacozari (Mexico) . 69 
 
 18. From Naco to Cananea, thence to Nogales . . 69 
 
 19. From Nogales, via Hermosillo, to Guaymas . . 74 
 
 20. Hermosillo 77 
 
 21. Guaymas 78 
 
 22. Lower California ... 84 
 
 23. From Guaymas, via Navojoa, Culiacan, Mazat- 
 
 lan and Tepic, to Guadalajara 89 
 
 24. State of Sinaloa 90 
 
 25. State of Nayarit (Territorio de Tepic) .... 91 
 
 IV. Central Mexico 98 
 
 26. From Piedras Negras (Eagle Pass, Texas), via 
 
 Torreon, to Durango ......... 98 
 
 27. Durango City 100 
 
 28. From (Laredo, Monterey, Saltillo) Saji Luis 
 
 Potosi, via Gonzalez Junction and Queretaro, to 
 Mexico City 104 
 
 29. From Gonzalez Junction, via Celaya and Salva- 
 
 tierra, to Acambaro (thence to Morelia, Patz- 
 cuaro and Uruapan) 108 
 
 30. Queretaro 109 
 
 31. From (Ciudad Juarez, Chihuahua, Torreon, Za- 
 
 catecas) Aguascalientes, via Leon, Silao, Irapua- 
 to, Celaya and Queretaro, to Mexico City . .122 
 
 32. From Silao to Guanajuato 137 
 
viii CONTENTS 
 
 Page 
 
 V. Central-Western Mexico 147 
 
 Route 
 
 33. From Irapuato, via Lake Chapala, to Guadala- 
 jara (thence to Colima and Manzanillo) . . .148 
 
 34. The Falls of Juanacatlan 159 
 
 35. Guadalajara 161 
 
 36. From Guadalajara, via Zapotlan, Tuxpan and 
 
 Colima, to Manzanillo 183 
 
 37. From Mexico City, via Toluca, Maravatio, Acam- 
 
 baro, Morelia and Patzcuaro, to Uruapan . . 191 
 
 38. Toluca 194 
 
 39. Morelia 202 
 
 40. Patzcuaro 209 
 
 41. Uruapan 227 
 
 VI. City and Valley of Mexico 231 
 
 42. Mexico City .... 233 
 
 Environs of Mexico City. 
 
 Guadalupe-Hidalgo 392 
 
 Tlalpan 405 
 
 The Country Club and Churubusco . . . 407 
 
 Coyoacan 408 
 
 The Pedregal 411 
 
 San Angel .412 
 
 La Piedad 416 
 
 Mixcoac 416 
 
 Tacubaya 417 
 
 Popotla 418 
 
 Tacuba 418 
 
 Azcapotzalco 419 
 
 43. From Mexico City to Pachuca 421 
 
 Pachuca, 422. Real del Monte, 423. State of Hidalgo, 423. 
 
 43a. From Mexico City to Puebla, via Ferrocarril 
 Interoceanico 424 
 
 44. From Mexico City, via San Juan Teotihuacan 
 
 and Tlaxcala, to Puebla 424 
 
 The Pyramids of San Juan Teotihuacan, 425. Tlaxcala, 427. 
 State of Tlaxcala, 428. Historical Sketch of the Tlaxcalan 
 Nation, 429. 
 
 VII. South-Western Mexico 432 
 
 45. From Mexico City to Cuernavaca (thence to 
 
 Puente de Ixtla and Balsas) 432 
 
 46. Cuernavaca 436 
 
 47. From (Mexico City) Cuernavaca to Puente de 
 
 Ixtla, Iguala and Balsas 456 
 
 48. From Iguala to Taxco 457 
 
 49. From Mexico City to Amecameca, Cuauhtla and 
 
 Puente de Ixtla 461 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 IX 
 
 VIII. South-Eastern Mexico 
 
 Route 
 
 50. Vera Cruz 
 
 51. From Vera Cruz to Alvarado (by railway), 
 
 thence (by steamboat) to Tlacotalpam, San 
 Cristobal, Cosamaloapam, Chacaltianquis and 
 Tuxtepec .... 
 
 52. From Vera Cruz, via Cordoba, Orizaba and San 
 
 Juan Teotihuacan, to Mexico City . . . . 
 
 53. Cordoba and Environs 
 
 54. Orizaba and Environs 
 
 55. From Mexico City to Texcoco, San Lorenzo, 
 
 Oriental, Jalapa and Vera Cruz 
 
 56. Jalapa 
 
 57. Puebla 
 
 58. Excursions from Puebla 
 
 59. From Puebla, via Tehuacan, to Oaxaca City 
 
 (thence to the Big Tree of Tule and the Ruins 
 of Mitla) 
 
 60. Oaxaca City 
 
 61. Excursion to the Ruins of Mitla 
 
 IX. Southern Mexico 
 
 62. From Cordoba to Santa Lucrecia (thence to 
 
 points on the Tehuantepec National, and the 
 Pan-American Railways) 
 
 63. From Coatzacoalcos (Puerto Mexico), via Santa 
 
 Lucrecia (Cordoba), Rincon Antonio and 
 Tehuantepec, to Salina Cruz 
 
 64- From San Geronimo to the Guatemalan Fron- 
 tier 
 
 65. State of Tabasco 
 
 66. State of Chiapas 
 
 67. State of Campeche 
 
 X. The Peninsula of Yucatan 
 
 68. From Progreso to Merida, via San Ignacio, 
 
 Yaxche, Chuburna and Itzimna 
 
 69. Merida 
 
 70. From Merida, via Muna, to Uxmal .... 
 
 71. From Merida, via Citas, to Chichen-Itza . . 
 
 72. The Gulf State of Yucatan 
 
 Page 
 
 468 
 
 469 
 
 481 
 
 484 
 
 486 
 
 489 
 
 499 
 
 503 
 
 508 
 
 518 
 
 523 
 
 528 
 
 534 
 
 544 
 
 544 
 
 550 
 
 558 
 
 560 
 
 563 
 
 569 
 
 572 
 
 573 
 
 574 
 
 580 
 
 581 
 
 582 
 
X 
 
 MAPS AND PLANS 
 
 Maps and Plans. 
 
 Mays. 
 
 1. General Map of the Mexican Republic: facing page cxxi. 
 
 2. Railway Map of the Republic: following page xxxi. 
 
 Plans of Towns , Buildings , etc . 
 
 1. Monterey: facing page 5 — 2. Saltillo: facing page 12 . — 3. San Luis 
 Potosi: facing page 17. — 4. Chihuahua: facing page 25. — 5. Zacatecas: 
 facing page 38. — 6. Tampico: facing page 50. — 7. Durango: facing page 
 100. — 8 Queretaro: facing page 109. — -9. Lake Chapala: facing page 
 152. — 10 Guadalajara: facing page 161. — 11. Toluca: facing page 194. 
 — 12. Morelia: facing page 202. — 13. Uruapan: facing page 227. — 14. 
 City of Mexico: facing page 232. — 15. National Palace (Mexico City;: 
 facing page 267. — 16. Mexico City Cathedral: facing page 272. — 17. San 
 Carlos Picture Gallery (Mexico City): facing page 310. — 18 . Chapultepec 
 Park: facing page 380. — 19. Castle of Chapultepec: facing page 386 — 20. 
 Valley of Mexico: facing page 247. — 21. Chapel of the Well of Guadalupe: 
 facing page 403. — 22. Cuernavaca: facing page 436. — 23. Vera Cruz: 
 facing page 469. — 24. Puebla: facing page 508. — 25. Oaxaca: facing page 
 528 . — 26. Merida: facing page 574. 
 
 Abbreviations. 
 
 Alt. = Altitude. 
 
 Am. PI. = American Plan. 
 
 Ave. = Avenida (avenue). 
 
 Ch. = Church. 
 
 C. = Calle (street); centavo (cent). 
 Comp. = Compare. 
 
 Cor. = Corner. 
 
 E. = East, eastern; every. 
 
 Eng. = English. 
 
 F. C. = Ferrocarril (railway). 
 
 Fr. = French. 
 
 Ft. = Feet. 
 
 Ger. = German. 
 
 Hr. = Hour. 
 
 Inhab. = Inhabitants. 
 
 J. = Jardin (garden). 
 
 K. , Kilom., Kiloms. = Kilometros 
 (kilometres). 
 
 1. = Left. 
 
 M. = Mile. 
 
 Mex. = Mexico, Mexican. 
 
 Mexs. = Mexicans. 
 
 Min. = Minute. 
 
 N. = North, northern. 
 
 P. = Plaza (park or square), 
 p. = Page, 
 pers. = Persons, 
 pop. = Population. 
 
 Pk. = Package. 
 
 PI. = Plan (refers to maps or plans), 
 r. = Right. 
 
 Repub. = Republic of Mexico. 
 Ret. = Return. 
 
 Rly. = Railway, railroad. 
 
 Rte. = Route. 
 
 S. = South, southern, etc. 
 
 Sp. = Spanish. 
 
 Sq. = Square feet. 
 
 Sqr. = Square, or city block. 
 
 Sta. = Station. 
 
 Tel. = Telegraph. 
 
 Tr. = Trunk. 
 
 W. = West, western, etc. 
 
 Yr. = Year. 
 
 The letter d with a date, after the name of a person, indicates the year 
 of his death; b the date of his birth. The number of miles or Idlometros 
 placed before the stations on railway routes indicates their distance from 
 the starting-point of the route. The number of feet given after the name 
 of a place shows its height above the sea-level. The bracketed Spanish 
 word after an English word shows the translation of the latter. 
 
 The Prices quoted throughout the Handbook are. in Mexican money 
 unless otherwise designated. 
 
Preliminary Information 
 
 I. Travelling Expenses. Money. Passports. Custom-House. 
 Language. 
 
 Travelling Expenses ( gastos de viaje ). Ordinarily travelling 
 in Mexico is cheaper than in the U. S. A. or Europe. While the 
 war inflated prices conditions are gradually returning to nor- 
 mal. The traveller’s daily expenditures naturally will vary 
 according to his requirements. In the chief cities prices usually 
 are higher than in small towns, but in each the economical 
 traveller can keep down expenses by doing his sight-seeing on 
 foot, using tramcars instead of taxis, and by seeking modest 
 hotels. A courier is unnecessary if the traveller carries a copy 
 of this guidebook, and thus a costly impediment can be elimi- 
 nated. Exclusive of railway fares a careful traveller ought to 
 be able to get about comfortabty in Mexico on (a minimum of) 
 $5 (U. S. money) a day. More should be allowed if one wishes 
 to stop at first-class hotels and dine at good restaurants. 
 
 The constant aim of the writer has been to point out ways of 
 economizing time and money, and these hints will be found 
 scattered throughout the guidebook. 
 
 Prices throughout the guidebook are in Mexican money, 
 unless otherwise indicated. 
 
 Money (diner o, moneda). Mexico uses the decimal system 
 (sistema decimal) and the gold standard (el patron oro). The 
 coins in circulation are: 
 
 1 cent (un centavo ), bronze (hr once). 2 cents (dos centavos ), 
 bronze. 
 
 5 cents (cinco centavos ), nickel (niquel), and also bronze. 
 
 10 cents (diez centavos ), silver (plata), and also bronze. Like- 
 wise a 20 c. piece. 
 
 50 cents (cincuenta centavos ), silver (plata) (called also toston 
 — Portuguese testoon , or 4 silver reales). 
 
 100 cents or peso (un peso), silver (plata) (often called peso 
 fuerte , or duro, hard money). 
 
 200 cents (dos pesos) , silver (plata). Likewise in gold. Also a 
 $2£ piece. 
 
 $5 (cinco pesos), gold (oro). Called Medio-Hidalgo (from the 
 patriot Miguel Hidalgo ). 
 
 $10 (diez pesos), gold (oro). Called Un Hidalgo. 
 
 $20 (veinte pesos), gold (oro). Called Una Azteca (an Aztec). 
 $50 (cincuenta pesos), gold (oro). Called Un Centenario 
 (centenary). 
 
 The object stamped on the handsome $20 gold piece is the 
 Aztec Calendar stone. 
 
xii 
 
 MONEY — DINERO— MONEDA 
 
 The gold money is often referred to as Oro National (ab- 
 breviated O.N.). 
 
 In writing, the $ mark is used; in speech the word peso. 
 American dollars are (by law) called dolares , to differentiate 
 them from the Mex. dollar, or peso. 
 
 The silver 20 cent pieces often are called (by Spaniards) 
 pesetas (Spanish diminutive of peso). 
 
 Bank Bills ( billetes de banco) formerly circulated from private 
 and national banks, and no doubt soon will again be in cir- 
 culation. 
 
 American paper and gold money ( moneda americana) passes 
 current in many places in the Republic, usually at two Mexi- 
 can pesos for one Am. dollar. 
 
 The traveller may like to remember that in certain lights a 
 medio- Hidalgo can scarcely be distinguished from a new cent 
 piece. These and the $2J gold piece are apt to be given out 
 by mistake. 
 
 The (coined) word, bilembiques , which the traveller will hear 
 in connection with money, refers to any currency, bonds or 
 similar tokens issued by temporal or unstable governments 
 (usually in revolutionary times) and which are regarded by the 
 people as more or less worthless. By extension the word is 
 applied to almost anything of little or no value. 
 
 Smooth or mutilated coins should be refused. Considerable 
 counterfeit money ( dinero contrahecho) is in circulation, and 
 change should never be taken without examining it. Almost 
 every person who receives a silver or a gold piece scrutinizes 
 it closely, and shopkeepers, as a rule, ring coins on a piece 
 of wood or stone to test them. This precaution is so general 
 that no one need fear practising it — however it may seem 
 to reflect on the person proffering the coin. The alert ear 
 soon becomes accustomed to the right ring. When a coin 
 gives forth a flat sound it should be refused. Spurious coins 
 are usually light, crudely made, and of a soapy texture. 
 
 American gold or paper money will, as a rule, be accepted 
 anywhere in the Republic at approximately two for one, but 
 silver money is often discounted. The chief reason for this is 
 the ultimate cost of handling and shipping metallic specie. 
 The credit machine^ throughout the Republic is sometimes 
 inadequate, and the transfer of funds from one part of the 
 country to the other is frequently done by simply shipping the 
 money by express. It is claimed that the collection depart- 
 ments of many banking houses in Mexico are run at a loss 
 because of the heavy transportation costs of actual specie. 
 While the Mexican silver coins pass current with the gold, it 
 often happens that on account of the excess of silver in the 
 circulating medium, and its comparatively low intrinsic value 
 with relation to the gold, the silver coins are discounted in cer- 
 tain parts of the country. 
 
MONEY 
 
 xiii 
 
 The following table will be useful in figuring exchange: 
 
 49 
 
 50 
 
 51 
 
 0 
 
 204.0816 
 
 0 
 
 200.0000 
 
 0 
 
 196.0784 
 
 Vl6 
 
 203.8217 
 
 Vl6 
 
 199.7503 
 
 Vl6 
 
 195.8384 
 
 Vs 
 
 203.5623 
 
 Vs 
 
 199.5012 
 
 Vs 
 
 195.5990 
 
 %6 
 
 203.3037 
 
 3 /l6 
 
 199.2528 
 
 %6 
 
 195.3602 
 
 V4 
 
 203.0457 
 
 % 
 
 199.0050 
 
 x /i 
 
 195.1220 
 
 5 /l6 
 
 202.7883 
 
 %6 
 
 198.7578 
 
 %6 
 
 194.8843 
 
 % 
 
 202.5316 
 
 % 
 
 198.5112 
 
 % 
 
 194.6472 
 
 7 Ae 
 
 202.2756 
 
 Vl6 
 
 198.2652 
 
 Vie 
 
 194.4107 
 
 y 2 
 
 202.0202 
 
 y 2 
 
 198.0198 
 
 V2 
 
 194.1748 
 
 °Ae 
 
 201.7654 
 
 9 /l6 
 
 197.7750 
 
 %6 
 
 193.9394 
 
 % 
 
 201.5113 
 
 % 
 
 197.5309 
 
 % 
 
 193.7046 
 
 11 Ae 
 
 201.2579 
 
 1 Vl& 
 
 197.2873 
 
 Hie 
 
 193.4704 
 
 % 
 
 201.0050 
 
 % 
 
 197.0443 
 
 % 
 
 193.2367 
 
 13 Aq 
 
 200.7528 
 
 13 /l0 
 
 196.8020 
 
 Hi 6 
 
 193.0036 
 
 Vs 
 
 200.5013 
 
 % 
 
 196.5602 
 
 Vs 
 
 192.7711 
 
 Hie 
 
 200.2503 
 
 Wie 
 
 196.3190 
 
 Hi 6 
 
 192.5391 
 
 Coined money was introduced into Mexico by the Spaniards, and 
 during the first years of the Spanish occupation all the coins in use were 
 imported. In barter the Aztecs used cacao-beans, transparent quills of 
 gold-dust, pieces of tin and thin copper cut in the form of a T, and other 
 symbols. In 1535 (May 11th) the King of Spain authorized the establish- 
 ment of a mint ( casa de moneda) in Mexico City, to be subject to the 
 laws governing Spanish mints. The first mint in New Spain was com- 
 pleted on the site of the present Palacio Municipal , at Mexico City 
 (p. 292), in 1537, and the first coins were struck in that year. The first 
 money (issued between 1537 and 1731) was known as moneda macu- 
 quina ; it was hammered out in an irregular form, marked with a cross, 
 two castles, two lions, the initials of the King, and the Mexico mark. 
 In 1569 the mint was moved to the Palacio Nacional adjoining the royal 
 treasury ( tesoreria real). A decree dated 1731 recommended the erection 
 of a suitable building (completed in 1734) for the exclusive use of the 
 mint: it occupied the site of the present Museo Nacional (p. 298) and 
 cost $480,000. From this mint came (between 1734 and 1771) coins 
 marked with the coat-of-arms of Spain supported between the two 
 Pillars of Hercules. This money was known in Spain and the New World 
 as moneda columnaria , and in Italy as “ colonnato." Following this 
 (from 1772 to 1821) came the moneda de busto, which bore the effigy of 
 the King. Between 1822 and 1823 (after the war for independence) the 
 money bore the profile of Agustin de Iturbide . first Mexican Emperor. 
 The Mexican eagle and the Phrygian cap appeared on the coins issued 
 thence up to 1862. From 1863 to 1867 the imperial money bore the bust 
 of the Archduke Maximilian. (These pesos may still be bought at 2 
 pesos each, in the antique shops at Mex. City.) The old republican peso- 
 fuerto . or duro , of universal fame, dates from 1868. It was replaced by 
 the reformed coins of 1910, and these in turn gave way to the centenary 
 symbols of 1921. 
 
 Fifteen subsidiary mints were once in operation in the Republic, and 
 of the steady stream of silver pesos which poured from them, some 
 reached, and are still circulated in, the maritime provinces of Cathay. 
 
XIV 
 
 PASSPORTS 
 
 The numismatist will be interested in the old revolutionary coins, 
 such as the Morelos peso, beaten out with a hammer and bearing, beside 
 the word “ Sud,” the dates 1811-14. They are of copper, and were forged 
 to meet the expenses of the revolucionarios during the struggle for 
 Mexican Independence. Perhaps the best book on the subject is Indaga- 
 ciones sobre la Amonedacion en Nuexa Espaiia (published in Madrid, in 
 1 81 8), by Fausto de Elhuyar. It gives considerable interesting information 
 about the coinage of money in New Spain from the Conquest down to 
 1814. 
 
 The price of the Mex. peso abroad is usually fixed in accordance with 
 the average price of the standard ounce of silver in the London market. 
 The daily rate is published in the newspapers — to which the traveller 
 is referred. In ordinary times 50 c. gold is the usual value of the peso. 
 Foreign exchange is sometimes more favorable in Mexico City, Guadala- 
 jara, Vera Cruz, Monterey, and other large commercial centres, than it is 
 in the smaller places less in touch with the world. The prudent traveller 
 will glance at the money-market quotations in the newspapers before 
 putting through important international financial transactions. A com- 
 plete collection of Mexican coins may be seen in the National Museum, 
 described at p. 298. 
 
 The present Casa de Moneda is in the N.-E. quarter of 
 the city in the Calle del Apartado, around the corner from 
 the S.-W. end of the Plaza de Loreto (p,J564). The tile inset 
 near the main entrance is marked Apartado, and the inscrip- 
 tion above, now almost obliterated, refers to the erection of 
 the casa in 1782, and to its renovation in 1801. 
 
 Passports (pasaportes) are unnecessary in Mexico, but 
 they are frequently useful in proving the travellers identity, 
 in obtaining registered letters, etc., and when re-crossing 
 into the United States. They are always desirable if one 
 travels to the remote and less frequented places; particularly 
 in cases where one is called upon to prove nationality. Amer- 
 ican citizens can procure passports from the State Depart- 
 ment at Washington. Before coming to Mexico the passport 
 should be viseed (small fee) by a Mex. Consul stationed in the 
 U. S. A.; it will then be officially correct. Americans w T ho in- 
 tend to reside in Mexico are required to register at the nearest 
 American Consulate soon after their arrival. This should not 
 be omitted, particularly by those who expect to return at 
 some future time, and who wish to avail themselves of the 
 privilege (see p. xvi) of importing their household effects 
 free of duty. 
 
 Custom-House. A liberal amount of luggage is allowed 
 every traveller entering Mexico, and the custom-house 
 (aduana) examination is prompt, courteous, and lenient. 
 (Comp. p. xv.) It is always advisable to superintend the 
 inspection of one’s belongings in person. Fees should never 
 be offered; nor should one show any reluctance to opening 
 luggage. The traveller’s effects are ahvays treated wdth cir- 
 cumspection, and are rarely taken out for closer scrutiny. 
 Personal effects (efectos usados o particulares) are always passed 
 free. Small articles of merchandise are generally overlooked, 
 but if there be a number of such articles irrelevant to the 
 
CUSTOMS-DUTIES 
 
 xv 
 
 traveller's personal comfort, duty is levied. Dutiable articles 
 should always be shown to the inspector. Duty is collected 
 on the weight of an article (at so much per kilo , comp. p. xlvii), 
 and the amount is usually small. 
 
 At the chief frontier towns {Laredo, p. 1; El Paso , p. 22) 
 Mex. customs-officers board trains at the rlv. stations on the 
 Amer. side and inspect hand-luggage while the train stands 
 on, or crosses, the international bridge above the Rio Grande. 
 An inspector usually precedes them and requests passengers 
 to have their baggage ready. On reaching the Mexico side all 
 heavy luggage is removed from the baggage-car to a room 
 set apart in the rly. station. Passengers must then leave the 
 train and look to their trunks, as they will be held until a 
 claimant appears. The porters {mozos) who help the traveller 
 to open luggage and re-strap it are usually grateful for a small 
 fee {propina), say 25 c. Mex. 
 
 The customary formalities attending one’s arrival by sea 
 are described at p. 469. 
 
 Travelling Salesmen (drummers) can have the import 
 duties on samples ( muestras ) refunded (within a certain time) 
 if they will declare their wishes to that effect at the port of 
 entry. In certain of the Mex. States commercial travellers 
 must pay a selling tax (none in the Federal District), which 
 varies with the locality and the number of commodities 
 handled. The best plan is to consult one’s Consul or some 
 prominent local merchant regarding it. 
 
 The Mex. Gov’t, welcomes travellers and is generous in its treatment 
 of them. Albeit the native customs-officer may be fierce of aspect and 
 begirt with weapons, he is usually one of the most courteous of indi- 
 viduals. Politeness is his cult, and if the visitor will bear this in mind, 
 he will experience no difficulty in crossing any Mexican frontier. Inability 
 to speak Spanish may give rise sometimes to misunderstandings, but 
 the prudent always know how to adjust such differences. In fact, 
 politeness is the most potent factor in custom-house transactions. Con- 
 tinuous inspection of travellers’ luggage must be back-breaking and 
 nerve-jangling. Nine times in ten the officer is a well-meaning man with 
 no desire to be unfriendly or discourteous. When he inspects baggage 
 he is simply doing his duty— usually in the range of some chief inspect- 
 or’s vigilant eye. Whether he is lenient or exacting is often determined 
 by the traveller’s attitude toward him. It is possible for him to do his 
 duty and still not make it unpleasant, and this happy desideratum 
 can almost always be attained by considerate and respectful deportment. 
 During ten years of continuous travel, in which the frontier of almost 
 every country on the globe was crossed repeatedly, the writer never had 
 even “ warm words” with a customs-officer, notwithstanding the fact that 
 on various occasions those “worst” custom-houses — all too familiar to 
 experienced travellers — were involved. He made it an inviolable rule 
 to be studiously polite to everything resembling a customs-inspector or 
 collector, and he has yet to register the single exception which is supposed 
 to prove every rule. 
 
 A Mexican law allows persons of any nationality coming to 
 Mexico to live, a considerable rebate from the usual duties 
 charged on household effects. To secure this privilege the in- 
 
xvi UNITED STATES CUSTOMS REGULATIONS 
 
 terested party should obtain from the nearest Mex. Consul a 
 copy of this law and its requirements. The latter should be 
 strictly followed if the rebate is to be obtained. Pianos and 
 automobiles are not considered household effects under this 
 law, nor is a reduction allowed on porcelain (china-ware), 
 since the Government holds that if this is not cracked it is in 
 good condition and should pay full duties. The duty is gauged 
 by the condition of the goods. The duty on a piece of furni- 
 ture that has been used a year or thereabout may perhaps be 
 accorded a reduction of 25% : while one showing marks of long 
 u>age might be classed in a 90% reduction. Persons availing 
 themselves of this privilege are required to swear that they 
 will not sell the goods thus imported before the expiration of 
 one }^ear. As the concession usually means a big saving, it 
 should be taken advantage of by every one coming to Mexico 
 with the intention of residing in the country. The same con- 
 cession is not granted twice to the same person. If the Consul 
 possesses no information on the subject, write to El Adminis- 
 trator Genei'al de Aduanas, City of Mexico, Mex. 
 
 Customs-Duties. As the tariff is subject to change, travel- 
 lers who wish to know the charges placed upon foreign goods 
 imported into Mexico must consult the last edition of the 
 arancel de aduanas , published at Mexico City (translations on 
 sale in the book-shops), and find out if any order has been 
 issued which modifies the duties. 
 
 United States Customs Regulations are a bit more com- 
 plicated than those of Mexico, particularly when one enters 
 the country through a seaport, but a strict observance of the 
 law’s requirements (indicated on a printed slip handed to each 
 passenger before the ship is docked) will save time and annoy- 
 ance. The formalities seem cumbrous to the uninitiated, but 
 they should not be dreaded. The inspectors are looking for 
 smugglers, and honest folk have nothing to fear. 
 
 On crossing the Rio Grande from Mexico to the U. S. A. the 
 svstem of baggage inspection is practically the same as on the 
 Mexico side (described at p. xiv), and albeit the examination 
 mav be a trifle more minute, the officers are equally courteous 
 and obliging. Each passenger is allowed 50 cigars or 300 
 cigarettes free of duty. No more than 50 should be carried 
 across the frontier, as the law otherwise forbids the importation 
 of less than 3,000 cigars or cigarettes at one time. Returning 
 Americans are permitted to bring in, free of duty, articles 
 purchased abroad, for their own use, to the value of $100 
 (U. S. money). But as certain things are forbidden admission to 
 the country (paradise feathers, sealskins, intoxicating liquors, 
 etc.), the traveller is advised to consult the Customs Regula- 
 tions, or seek the advice of an American Consul. Those tour- 
 ists who make their purchases of reputable houses (all of 
 
THE SPANISH LANGUAGE xvii 
 
 which are well known to the customs-officers) and who secure 
 invoices (properly stamped) for their goods will have the least 
 trouble. It is wise always to get a bill for articles purchased in 
 Mexico, provided there are several and their value is important. 
 The Mexican Government keeps a record of exports, and bills 
 are often called for, for inspection, when outward-bound 
 luggage is being examined. Where revenue stamps do not 
 appear on the bill, it must be marked provisional — which 
 indicates that a regular, stamped bill is to follow. A heavy 
 fine is imposed if bills are not made out and stamped in legal 
 form. 
 
 Men and women inspectors are employed on both sides of 
 the river. The traveller may wish to remember that Spanish 
 is understood by the American, and English by the Mexican 
 inspectors. 
 
 The U. S. A. and Mexican laws are severe with respect to 
 the offering of bribes to customs-officers, and this should never 
 be attempted. 
 
 An American law permits citizens of the U. S. A. residing 
 abroad to bring home with them (these should accompany 
 them when possible) all household goods (free of duty) used 
 bv them abroad for more than one year. To take advantage 
 of this concession the interested party must secure the proper 
 documents from the American Consul nearest his place of 
 residence abroad. It matters not if all these effects were pur- 
 chased outside of the U. S. A. 
 
 The Spanish Language {el idioma espanol), called by Span- 
 iards generally cl Castellano (the Castilian), or la lengua caste- 
 liana (the Castilian tongue), sprang, like the other Romance 
 languages, from the vulgar Latin, which at an early period 
 drove out the languages spoken by the Iberians and Cantabri- 
 ans, the primitive inhabitants of Spain. From the Arabs, who 
 first landed on Spanish soil in 711 and maintained themselves 
 until 1492, the Spanish language received that Oriental char- 
 acter which distinguishes it among the Romanic languages. 
 Among the numerous dialects developed from the amalgama- 
 tion of the Latin and the Gothic languages (the Gallego, 
 Catalan , Valenciano, and others) the Castilian gradually 
 gained the ascendency; in time becoming established as the 
 language of Spain, and later of the greater portion of Latin 
 America. In perpetual remembrance of the political and lin- 
 guistic preponderance of Castile over all the other kingdoms 
 and districts of Spain, it was called Castilian. 
 
 The Present-Day Spanish is one of the softest, most beauti- 
 ful and sonorous of the world’s languages. Twenty-one nations 
 speak it (60 millions of people on the American continent, and 
 2.5 millions in Spain), and thus make it the most international 
 of all the world languages. It contains about 150,000 words, 
 
xviii THE SPANISH LANGUAGE 
 
 75 per cent of which are Latin, 14 per cent Greek, 6 per cent 
 Arabic, and 5 per cent of various origins — Iberian, Punic, 
 Visigothic, Hebrew, French and whatnot. The Greek element 
 is essentially technological, and it constitutes the scientific 
 portion of the language. The Latin and the French scholar 
 will find much in Spanish that is familiar to him. A decided 
 advantage in learning it is that the student possessed of no 
 Latin will get an intimate knowledge thereof; in this way 
 accomplishing a double achievement. 
 
 The Spanish of the Americas, that rich estate acquired when 
 ‘A Castilla y a Leon Nuevo Mundo dio Col6n/ is more extensive 
 than that of Spain, and in its resourcefulness bears much the 
 same relation to the Spanish of Spain that the English spoken 
 in the United States does to that of Great Britain. 
 
 The Spanish of Mexico is by far the most virile, subtle, and 
 elastic of any spoken in the Americas. It is notably richer than 
 that of Castile, and it easily surpasses the tongue of the 
 hi other Country in copiousness, flexibility and elegance of 
 expression. It is softer and more euphonious than the lisping, 
 burring speech of North-Central Spain, since the old Arabic 
 gutturals still heard there become mere aspirates in Mexico 
 (and the Americas generally)* The Mexican Pronunciation of 
 Spanish is mainly that of all Spanish-America down to Chile. 
 The cultured people of Southern Spain who followed Cortes 
 to the New World and helped to settle Mexico, brought thither 
 the Andalusian pronunciation of Spanish, and it has changed 
 but little since that remote time. 
 
 Of the 182 known languages and dialects which at one time 
 were spoken within the confines of Mexico, 63 properly classi- 
 fied ones remain. Fifty-two of them are Indian. About 80 
 per cent (12 millions) of the people now speak Spanish — 
 a Spanish so charged with the best elements of the finest of the 
 native tongues that their influence on the daily speech of the 
 people should be understood by whosoever would speak and 
 comprehend it. Many of these Indian elements and their 
 derivations are current in the Spanish spoken as far south as 
 the Argentine. Most important among them are those derived 
 from the Nahuatl tongue, described below. 
 
 The Nahuatl, the language spoken by the Nahoas, or Aztecs, or Mexica, 
 was in its prime one of the most perfect and finished of all the native lan- 
 guages spoken in America. Bancroft says that it surpassed many of the 
 tongues of Europe and Asia by its elegance of expression. Although want- 
 ing the six consonants, b, d, f, r, g, s , it was full and rich. Its copiousness is 
 demonstrated by the fact that 1200 different species of Mexican plants, 
 200 or more species of birds, and a large number of quadrupeds, reptiles, 
 insects, metals and whatnot each has its proper name in the Mexican lan- 
 guage. Mendieta said that it was not excelled in beauty by the Latin, that 
 it abounded in tropes and metaphors, and displayed more art in its con- 
 struction. Camargo called it the richest in the whole land, and the purest, 
 since it contained no foreign barbaric elements. Gomara said it was the best, 
 most copious, and most extended in all New Spain. Davila Padilla said 
 
THE SPANISH LANGUAGE 
 
 xix 
 
 that it wa3 very elegant and graceful, although it contained many meta- 
 phors, which made it difficult. Brasseur de Bourbourg said that from sub- 
 lime heights it descended to common things with a sonorousness and rich- 
 ness of expression peculiar only to itself; while Lorenzana characterized 
 it as very elegant, sweet, and complete. The missionaries found it ample 
 for their purpose, as in it, and without the aid of foreign words, they could 
 express all the shades of their dogmas, from the thunderings and anathemas 
 of Sinai to the sublime teachings of Christ. 
 
 The Aztec contains more diminutives and augmentatives than the Italian, 
 and is probably richer than any other tongue in verbal nouns and abstracts; 
 there being hardly a verb from which verbal nouns cannot be formed, or a 
 substantive or adjective of which abstracts cannot be made. A noteworthy 
 fact is that most of these nouns can be converted into verbs when occasion 
 offers. It is phenomenally rich in verbs, and almost every verb forms a root 
 from which others of different meaning spring. Agglutination or aggrega- 
 tion is carried to a wide extent, and words of inordinate length are not un- 
 common. A word of sixteen syllables, the name of a plant — mihuiittil- 
 moyoiccuitlatonpicixochitl — occurs in the writings of Hernandez. 
 
 Hundreds of Nahuatl and other Indian words are current in the Spanish 
 spoken in Mexico. The word Mexico is itself a derivative of the Aztec 
 Mexictli, the ancient war-god of the Nahoas. The practiced ear will detect 
 the subtle Indian influence in the Spanish spoken in each of the 29 states 
 and territories of the Mex. Repub. Every district has its individual dejo or 
 manner of usage. The Spanish of Sonora is influenced by the Yaki tongue; 
 that of Chihuahua by the Tarahumare, of Nayarit by the Huichol and 
 Nayarit; of Michoacan by the Tarascan; of Zacatecas by several tribes 
 which dwell within the state. Tlaxralan, Otomi and other vocables and de- 
 rivatives are encountered in the Valley of Mexico, Huastecan words abound 
 along the Gulf coast northward from Vera Cruz, while in Southern Mexico 
 the Mixteco-Zapoteca dialects are frequently heard. The rich Maya language 
 of Yucatan was spoken by a race which ranked with the Aztecs in advance- 
 ment, and which in many respects was considered their superior. Its influ- 
 ence extends along the Spanish Main to the Orinoco. (For a list of the lin- 
 guistic families in Mexico see page lx.) 
 
 The Nahuatl Elements in the Spanish of Mexico usually are distinguish- 
 able by their structural peculiarities and terminations; for example: Tepee 
 or tepetl, means hill, mountain, as Chapul-tepec ( chapulin , grasshopper) 
 or grasshopper hill: Popocatepetl (popoca-iepetl) , smoking-mountain. The 
 terminations can and tlan signify place, as: Coyoa-can, place of the coyote 
 (Aztec, coy oil, wolf). Oco-tlan ( ocote , pine), place of the pines. -Milco is a 
 common termination, as Xochimilco ( xochitl , flower; milli, seed-bed, co, 
 in, or place), place of the flowers, or where flowers grow. -Milpa is fre- 
 quently used and has practically the same meaning, as Cacahuamilpa 
 ( cacahua , peanut; milli , seed-plot, or field, pa, place), peanut-field. Atl % 
 water, is a suffix to many substantives, as Chocclatl (ccoco, sour; all, water), 
 chocolate, or cacao; called, by the Aztecs, cocoa- water, or cacauatl (the bean 
 being sour until mixed with water and sugar). Tomatl, or jitomate ( xictli, 
 naval; tomatl , tomato), tomato. 1 
 
 In certain regions these indigenous Indian elements exercise an almost 
 predominant influence in the daily speech of the people. They often make 
 for melody, and they impart to the Spanish a character quite as beautiful and 
 seductive as the lovely tropical countries in which it is spoken. Because of 
 these expressive Indian vocables the Spanish of Mexico is superior to that 
 spoken elsewhere on the continent. 
 
 The hybrid Spanish sometimes heard along the Rio Grande, and in Ari- 
 zona and California, has given rise to the erroneous impression that Mexicans 
 speak a corrupted Spanish . The lower classes in Mexico mangle the language 
 as ignorant people everywhere do all languages, but cultured Mexicans use 
 as good Spanish as Bostonians or Baltimoreans do English; employing an 
 extensive vocabulary, adhering punctiliously to rules of grammar, manag- 
 ing the sometimes difficult subjunctive with scholarly precision, and speak- 
 ing with grace and discrimination. 
 
 1 The student interested in the Aztec and other Indian Languages is ad- 
 vised to consult Terry's Short Cut to Spanish, or a Diccionario de Aztequismos, 
 by Licenciado Cecilio A. Robelo. 
 
XX 
 
 EL IDIOMA ESPANOL 
 
 Th© Arabic Words one frequently notes in Spanish are Guadalajara 
 (Wala-l- H ajar a), river of stones; Valladolid ( Belad-wali ), land of the gov- 
 ernor; azulejo , blue and white tile; arroba, a weight of 25 lbs.; adobe (at-tob), 
 a sun-dried brick; lozano, sprightly; fardo, a bale of goods; zagal, a stout 
 young chap; naranja, orange; alforjas, saddlebags, etc. Most of the words 
 beginning with al (the Arabic article), are of Arabic origin, like alcohol , 
 almanac, algebra, algodon (cotton), alhaja (jewel), etc. The word noria is 
 Moorish, as is also the water-wheel it stands for and which is so common 
 in Mexico. 
 
 The grammatical structure of the best Spanish of Spain is 
 the same as that of Mexico and of the other countries down 
 to the Argentine, — where it is influenced by the National 
 Language of the Argentine . 1 
 
 The Lisp (el ceceo ), which Charles Fifth is said to have per- 
 petuated, and which is so common in certain districts of 
 Spain, is not employed by Mexicans. It constitutes one of the 
 salient differences between the Spanish spoken in Northern 
 and Central Spain, and that of Spanish America . 2 
 
 While Castilians declare the lisp to be the correct form and 
 pronounce decimos (we say) day-theme-ohs, cepillo (brush), 
 theh-peel-vo, and feliz (happy), fay-leeth, Spanish American 
 purists reject this form and say day-see-mohs, seh-pee-yoh, 
 and faj'-lease. They say also plah-sere (instead of plah- 
 theer) for pleasure; cohn-sep-see-own (instead of cohn-sep- 
 thee-own — like the in theatre), for conception, etc. 
 
 The nice acquirement of the lisp is difficult outside of 
 Spain. W T ell-bred Spaniards, in pronouncing the c and z 
 render the lisp almost imperceptibly; something like the half- 
 smothered sound of th in thistle. Unless delicately uttered it 
 is unpleasant to cultured Spanish- American ears — particu- 
 larly to those whose ancestors had theirs tweaked for three 
 hundred j^ears by the iron hand of conquering Spain. Many 
 Spanish-Americans regard the lisp as an affectation, and its 
 
 1 The Spanish of the Argentine is analogous to that of Mexico in that 
 it possesses a wealth of metaphorical expressions drawn from the rich and 
 picturesque Indian life and history inseparably associated with the Re- 
 public. Because of the cosmopolitan character of its population it has, in 
 its vocabulary, its syntax and its pronunciation, almost as many points of 
 contact with French and Italian as it has wdth Spanish. It might be called 
 a progressive admixture of Spanish, French, Italian, English, and Indian 
 elements — the latter represented by the various tribes of the broad Pam- 
 pas, of adjacent Patagonia, of Chile, Paraguay, and contiguous regions. 
 The Argentines consider their language superior to pure Castilian, and they 
 prefer to call it El idioma nacional de los argentinos (the national language 
 of the Argentines). As in Mexico, the names of many plants, animals, in- 
 sects, flowers, places, etc., in the Silver Republic are of Indian origin. The 
 Spanish of the Argentine is treated of at length in Terry's Short Cut to 
 Spanish. 
 
 2 The lisping sound of th or z before the vowels, especially in the syl- 
 lables za, zo, zu, is of Arabic provenience. Carlos V, sometime (1516- 
 1556) King of Spain, who is said to have had a hair lip and perforce to have 
 lisped certain of the sibilant letters, is believed to have perpetuated the 
 Arabic lisp and perhaps to have introduced the lisping of the d, as well as 
 that of the c before the vowels e and i. Mayhap in substantiation of the 
 Spanish proverb, como canta el abad, responde el sacristan, the king’s courtiers 
 imitated him, and in their turn were imitated by the commonalty. 
 
EL CASTELLANO 
 
 xxi 
 
 possession gains the student no honors. A native affecting it 
 would be regarded as would an American ‘ too English ’ in his 
 pronunciation. 
 
 It should be noted that in order to keep alive the custom 
 and usage of the Spanish stage, the Castilian of the high-class 
 drama usually is pronounced in the Castilian fashion. Also 
 that along the Gulf Coast of Mexico the natives often clip 
 syllables and lisp their s’s after the manner of certain Andalu- 
 sians. 
 
 One is perhaps correct in saying that the Spanish lisp, on 
 the tongue of an American, is no less offensive to a discrimi- 
 nating Mexican ear than the bizarre habit of clipping English 
 terminations is to that of an English purist. Or the New 
 England custom of saying goin, bein, meetin , etc., instead of 
 going, being, meeting. 
 
 In Mexico the liquid U is pronounced y , as cah-&?/-yoh, 
 instead of (the Castilian) cah-bahl-yo; cahs-tee-yah-no, 
 instead of cahs-teel-yah-no, etc. The lower classes of Mexico 
 offend the canons of the language by substituting b for v , as 
 in buelbo instead of vuelvo (I return); tubo for tuvo (he had); 
 in saying pus for pues; muncho for mucho (much), and so on. 
 Added to this is the affected patois of the genie de coleta (the 
 bull-fighters), who bring with them from sunny Sevilla the 
 trick of smothering terminations and saying comi-o , queri-o, 
 gana-o , for comido, querido , ganado ; no vale na , no hay na , for 
 no vale nada , no hay nada — and who indulge in other lin- 
 guistic gymnastics. Usually they speak with affected bravado 
 and in such a whirlwind fashion that any student of Spanish 
 who finds it possible to understand the spoken words of a 
 Spanish bullfighter — particularly one who has lost one or 
 two front teeth — may congratulate himself, for in all the 
 course of his study he will not encounter a more difficult prop- 
 osition. 
 
 The American in Mexico should make it a point to practise 
 the pronunciation accepted there as correct. The scholarly 
 Mexican speaks Spanish with unusual purity, and the traveller 
 should not fall into the error of thinking the vernacular there 
 inferior to that of court circles at Madrid. 
 
 Spanish is remarkably easy to learn when stripped of the 
 perplexities with which purists and certain dogmatic gram- 
 marians often endow it. The fundamentals of the language 
 are neither involved nor difficult, and it presents few if any 
 of the knotty lingual problems of French or English. There 
 are practically no elisions such as occur in French and Italian, 
 and there is but one silent letter in the alphabet. Spanish is 
 unusually open and aboveboard. It also is harmonious and 
 friendly. When one hears a word spoken, one knows exactly 
 how to spell it; when one sees a word, one knows how to pro- 
 nounce it. The preponderance of vowel sounds impart to it 
 
XXII 
 
 EL CASTELLANO 
 
 a rhythm and a melody which make its pronunciation and 
 retention easy. Spanish harbors none of the idiosyncrasies of 
 pronunciation which one finds in French . 1 
 
 With a very few exceptions it is pronounced exactly as it is 
 written, and it does not present those difficulties met with in 
 the orthography and pronunciation of certain other tongues. 
 One who knows Spanish well can catch the sense of much of 
 the spoken and written Portuguese, Italian, and the Lingua 
 franca current in the Levant. By speaking Spanish in certain 
 districts in Italy he can make his meaning known and under- 
 stand the drift of the spoken Italian. 
 
 Contrary to the common belief, Spanish is more concise and 
 is less prolix than English. There is no padded spelling. 
 English syllables average longer than Spanish. Where double 
 letters occur in the latter, they serve to clarify the pronuncia- 
 tion. Usually they have the vocal value of but one letter (like 
 the ll, pronounced y) Many of the short Spanish words are 
 such marvels of condensed expression that they remind one 
 of an innocent-appearing but powerful explosive. The English 
 student of Spanish will often have recourse to these words to 
 express an idea which the less flexible English words somehow 
 fail to express. 
 
 Certain of the Spanish verbs are models of lucidity and 
 compactness. One word often expresses what requires three 
 English words, as: vamonos, let us go; ire, I will go; llego , he 
 arrived; voy, I am going; vinieron, they came; hay, is there, 
 are there, etc. Certain Spanish verbs mal^e a statement and 
 ask a question by the verb itself, as : i habla usted espahoif 
 speak you (do 3 r ou speak) Spanish? Si sehor, lo hablo, yes sir, 
 I (do) speak it. In nouns like servant, which in English is 
 used for both sexes, the terminal letter indicates the gender in 
 Spanish, while a prefix, like man- or maid-, is required in 
 English to indicate the sex. The inverted interrogation and 
 exclamation points at the beginning of a Spanish sentence are 
 admirable aids to voice inflexion. Perhaps in no other language 
 are the proverbs with which Spanish fairly bristles as terse and 
 expressive. 
 
 1 The French-speaking person will find in Spanish much that is 
 familiar and easy to learn. Like the French nouns, the majority of those in 
 Spanish are masculine or feminine, while (as in French) the articles ( los 
 artlculos), the adjectives ( los adjetivos), and the pronouns ( los pronombres) 
 vary their form, or spelling, to agree with the gender of the nouns. French 
 > erbs are conjugated much like those of Spanish, more than 75 per cent being 
 of one termination, the remainder reducible to easily remembered rules. 
 Like those of Spanish, French verbs have two past times, the perfect and 
 the imperfect, while will and shall express the future meaning by a change 
 in the verb itself. Many of the French verbs are spelled just like the Spanish 
 words, with a difference onty in the pronunciation. Like the Spanish they 
 have complete verbs which express will, power, and duty, and which supply 
 the place of the English will, can, may, shall, should, could, would, might, 
 must. The reflexive se has its French counterpart, while French adverbs 
 are formed much as are the Spanish, by the addition of ment, instead cf 
 mcnte, to the adjective. 
 
LA LENGUA CASTELLANA xxiia 
 
 The lack of a knowledge of Spanish should never deter the 
 traveller from visiting Mexico, as English-speaking persons are 
 to be found in nearly all the larger towns and cities. Spanish- 
 speaking countries are the easiest of all foreign countries to 
 travel in, as the natives gesticulate freely and expressively, 
 and, being naturally nimble-witted, they require but a few 
 key-words to grasp the meaning of a sentence. But a slight 
 knowledge of the language will add greatly to the pleasure of a 
 trip through the Republic, as it will bring one into more inti- 
 mate personal relations with the people, while delivering one 
 from the wearisome tutelage of interpreters or guides. 
 
 Aside from utilitarian considerations, the study of Spanish 
 as a means of culture will amply reward those who undertake 
 it. It opens the way to many new forms of intellectual enjoy- 
 ment and introduces one to one of the finest and richest litera- 
 tures in the world. Some of this literature teems with a ro- 
 mance unknown to other languages, while the vast realm of 
 Spanish history is in part the history of our own land and the 
 men who discovered it. No other foreign language is more 
 intimately associated with American history, and none is 
 destined to be of greater importance in the future develop- 
 ment of American commerce. 
 
 A smattering of Spanish is easily acquired. Many of the 
 words with vowel endings have a musical ring to them, and 
 after being heard a number of times they stick in the mind 
 like the fragments of a catchy, oft-whistled tune. When the 
 student learns how to conjugate certain key verbs he can con- 
 jugate hundreds of others in the same class. A surprising 
 number of English words in every day use are also Spanish. 
 In many instances the only difference is that of pronunciation. 
 Hundreds of English words become Spanish by the addition of 
 a single accent, or the elimination or addition of a terminal or 
 other letter. Other hundreds are convertible by rules so 
 simple that it is easier to remember than to forget them. 
 More than 500 English words ending in - lion , -ction become 
 Spanish by changing the t to c and putting an acute accent 
 over the o, as: abomination, abomination ; action, action , etc. 
 The system of Spanish word-building is so simple that once 
 learned the student can at a glance determine the status and 
 meaning of thousands of words, thereby saving himself con- 
 siderable mental drudgery. (This system is explained in detail 
 in Terry's Short Cut to Spanish, for sale at all bookshops.) 
 
 The suggestive Spanish proverb, la letra con sangre entra , 
 loses its sinister import for whoever approaches the study of 
 the language from an intelligent angle. By eliminating the 
 non-essentials, and learning only the essentials, one can 
 absorb a lot of Spanish in a few weeks* time. The author 
 believes that a language remains only a theory to a person if 
 it is but ocularly acquired. Linguistically learned, it is a 
 
xxii b 
 
 THE SPANISH LANGUAGE 
 
 living, practical aid. Practice and constant repetition is the 
 surest road to a correct speaking knowledge of any tongue. 
 Children demonstrate this when they learn to express their 
 wishes before they know the meaning of the word grammar. 
 It is said that Greek had its literature long before it had a 
 grammar. It is no doubt true that few Spaniards know from 
 memory all the grammatical rules and their endless exceptions 
 which the student of Spanish is asked to learn by many of the 
 writers of grammars and methods for acquiring the language. 
 
 If there is one royal road to a foreign tongue it is through 
 speaking it. When one begins to speak in a foreign language 
 one begins to think in it, and this is necessary to one who 
 would speak it. 
 
 If, on reaching Mexico, the student will set for himself the 
 easy task of learning ten useful words a day, in thirty days he 
 will possess a vocabulary almost equal to that of the ordinary 
 servant, railway employee, taxi-driver, etc., with whom he 
 comes in contact. He can also grasp the sense of the news 
 items in the vernacular papers, read street signs and names, 
 and get about fairly easily. In ninety days he will have a 
 range equal to that of the average man in the street, and daily 
 practice will soon render him proficient. In reading, pick out 
 and write down the most useful words, then memorize them or 
 make lists on cards for the pocket or to be pinned on the wall 
 where the}' will be seen often. When the words have been 
 absorbed by the mind, replace them with others. One of the 
 most satisfactory results of reading is that the language shapes 
 itself naturally in the mind; good speech becomes a habit, and 
 in time the tongue finds it easier to express a thought correct!}' 
 than incorrectly. The student interested in progress should 
 never hesitate to practise what he has learned when the 
 occasion offers. Every time a word is uttered it is fixed more 
 firmly in the mind. Add a little each day to the store of 
 knowledge, and ere long one will be surprised at one’s own 
 proficiency. 
 
 American travellers are not expected to speak Spanish flu- 
 ently after a few weeks’ residence in Mexico, and on this score 
 the Mexicans are thoughtful and helpful. In fact no people 
 are more considerate of the learner than those who speak the 
 Spanish tongue. They never laugh at the mistakes one may 
 make, however ludicrous, and to a sensitive person this com- 
 mendable trait robs the language of one of its chief stumbling 
 blocks. 
 
 The alphabet and the vowel sounds should come first. Both 
 are so easy that any bright schoolboy can learn them in 30 
 minutes. Verbs express action, hence they are among the 
 most important words in a language. Learn and employ the 
 infinitive of verbs until study and practice bring proficiency 
 in the management of the conjugations. Hesitate to follow 
 
LA LENGUA CASTELLANA xxiic 
 
 the silly custom of trying to learn rules of grammar before 
 acquiring the ability to express the simplest wish. Grammars 
 deter many a well-meaning person from attempting to learn 
 foreign languages, but they never frighten children, who know 
 nothing of them and who soon learn to chatter volubly enough. 
 Remember that the letter h is always silent and that the letter 
 j takes its place and is pronounced nearly like it. If these 
 instructions are followed one soon will have achieved one’s 
 first mastery over the idioma. 
 
 When one has acquired a knowledge of the language, he 
 should avoid certain expressions which carry double meanings. 
 For instance, in asking a dining-room waitress for milk, never 
 employ the verb tener — to have. Instead, use the third 
 person singular, present indicative, of the impersonal verb 
 haber, to have, as follows: 
 
 (incorrect) $ tiene uste leche? have you (a flow of) milk? 
 
 (correct) $ hay leche? is there any milk? 
 
 She may resent being taken for a wet-nurse. 
 
 Never employ cryptic remarks heard on the street unless 
 their full meaning is known. Never omit to affix Don to any 
 gentleman’s name. It requires no effort and is always ap- 
 preciated. The second person of verbs is used in addressing 
 children, loved ones, and menials. Defer employing it until a 
 fair working knowledge of the language has been acquired. 
 L se the third person instead. It is more formal, more polite, 
 in wider use, and it never offends. Accents have an important 
 bearing on the meaning of certain Spanish words, and they 
 should be noted. They do not always appear over capital 
 letters. 
 
 The majority of the textbooks or methods, or grammars, 
 for learning Spanish either are out of date or they essay to 
 teach the court language of Madrid; which differs in many 
 ways from that of the Americas. Much of it has to be un- 
 learned by the man who would travel or do business in Mexico, 
 and the discarded elements replaced by Indian words current 
 in the language spoken there. The writer therefore believes 
 that his own Short Cut to Spanish is more to the purpose of 
 the traveller in Mexico. For a detailed description of it he 
 is referred to the first inside cover page of the guidebook. The 
 advanced student will find much to interest him in the Gram - 
 dtica de la Lengua Castellana, published by the Real Academia 
 Espanola , at Madrid. The advantage of this, as well as of the 
 Spanish Dictionary published by the same academy, is that it 
 is the last word in Spanish orthography, diction, etc. Both 
 give the Castilian lisp in the pronunciation of c, z, and the 
 like, but this can be remedied. Perhaps the best Spanish- 
 English, English-Spanish Dictionary at present on the market 
 is that by Arturo Cuyas; published by D. Appleton & Co. 
 
xxii d 
 
 PLAN OF TOUR 
 
 The author of this guidebook has one in preparation that will 
 contain a host of Indian terms current in Spanish- America, 
 and not to be found in any existing dictionary printed in the 
 English language. 
 
 The traveller will do well to learn by heart, and have ready 
 for use, certain expressions like the following: 
 
 Good morning (sir), madame (miss) 
 bue?ios dias (senor), sehora ( senorita ) 
 
 How do you do? How are you? 
 Icomo estd usted? geo mo sigue usted? 
 
 How have you been? Hello! 
 
 Icomo le ha ido? jhola! 
 
 I am very glad to see you 
 tengo mucho gusto en verle 
 
 By your leave ; with your permission 
 con permiso de usted 
 
 I want. I don’t want (it) 
 quiero. no (Jo) quiero 
 
 Please give me (one, two, three) 
 favor de darme ( uno , dos, tres) 
 
 Where (is it — are they)? 
 idonde ( estd — estan )? 
 
 Is it near? far? close? 
 i estd cerca? glejosf icerquito? 
 
 I do not speak Spanish 
 yo no hablo espahol 
 
 I 'd like something to eat 
 quisiera algo de comer 
 
 Money. Silver. Gold. Paper 
 diner o. plata. oro. papel 
 
 Railway station. Street-car 
 estacidn de ferrocarril. tranvia 
 
 Coffee. Tea. Milk. Lemonade 
 cafe. te. leche. limonada 
 
 Chocolate. Beer. Wine. Drink. 
 chocolate, cerveza. vino, bebida 
 
 Good afternoon. Good night. Good 
 bye 
 
 bue?ias tardes. buenas noches. ad ids 
 
 Pardon me. Permit me. Thank you 
 dispenseme. permitatne. gracias 
 
 Thank you very much. Don’t men- 
 tion it 
 
 un millon de gracias. no hay de que 
 
 It does n’t matter. I am busy now 
 no le hace; no importa. estoy ocupado 
 
 Kindly do me the favor (to tell me) 
 hdgame usted el favor (de d&cirme ) 
 
 Don’t bother me. Get out! 
 no me moleste. ivdyase! 
 
 How much? How much is it? 
 gcudnto? icudnto cuesta? 
 
 How far is it (from here) ? 
 la que distancia estd (de aqui )? 
 
 Look out! Take care! icuidado! 
 Good, bueno; bad, malo; dear, caro 
 
 I am an American. I’m English 
 soy americano. soy ingles 
 
 Give me a glass of water 
 ddme un vaso de agua 
 
 Letter. Stamp. Newspaper. Book 
 carta, estampilla. periddico. libro 
 
 Hotel. Restaurant. Post-office 
 hotel. cafe. correo 
 
 Bread. Butter. Cheese. Meat 
 pan. mantequiUa. queso. carne 
 
 II. Plan of Tour. Seasons. Climate. Health. What to Wear. 
 
 Plan of Tour. The ideas of one traveller as to what is 
 and is not worth seeing are apt to be so widely at variance 
 with those of another that it is difficult, if not impossible, to 
 plan a tour that would fulfil the requirements, or meet with 
 the approval, of even a limited number of persons; particu- 
 larly in the case of a country whose attractions are so numer- 
 ous and so varied as are those of Mexico. Many of its highly 
 interesting spots lie far from the beaten tracks. 
 
 Planned tours are apt to strike the methodical traveller 
 as unsatisfactory : he thinks that because the author has com- 
 passed them he also must, in order to see the country and its 
 
PLAN OF TOUR xxiii 
 
 people properly and not leave them feeling that he has not 
 seen them as he should. 
 
 Many of Mexico’s great attractions are the work of pre- 
 historic man, and modern ingenuity has not been able to con- 
 centrate them. The wonderful ruined cities of Yucatan, which 
 are so rarely visited and are so little known to the outer world, 
 lie more than a thousand miles southeast of the Casas Grandes, 
 or Big Houses of Chihuahua State, yet both are intensely 
 interesting, as they are replete with records in plaster and in 
 stone of perchance the first Americans. The dead cities of 
 Palenque, buried in the fastnesses and almost impenetrable 
 tropical forests of the State of Chiapas, and the mute palaces 
 and tombs of the vanished Zapotec and Mixtec kings, at 
 Mitla, in Oaxaca, are likewise full of an interest no less sus- 
 tained than that of the stupendous pre-Columbian pyramids 
 of Papantla, Cholula, and San Juan Teotihuacan. 
 
 The simple fact that in the Mexican Republic 63 languages 
 and dialects are spoken — 52 of them by Indians whose lin- 
 guistic characteristics are perhaps as widely different as those 
 of the Hurons and the Chinese — proves the extended range 
 of the elements that unite to form this old new land. Months 
 can be spent to advantage in Mexico, for few countries pos- 
 sess a greater number of attractions. The archaeologist, the 
 botanist, the ornithologist, the ethnologist, the hunter, and 
 the fisherman, — for Mexico abounds in game, and the tepid 
 waters of the two oceans which lave its tropical shores teem 
 with fish, — or the traveller seeking only health, sunshine, 
 or amusement, will find the nearly perfect summer days all 
 too short. The almost matchless climate of the table-land 
 charms the traveller from the frigid North, and the multi- 
 tudinous contrasts are his sustained delight. Here sky-pierc- 
 ing volcanoes rise in pointed grandeur from tropical surround- 
 ings, and the eternal snows of their summits look down in 
 cold silence upon fruit-laden palms basking in sempiternal 
 sunshine. At times the entire botanical range embraced in 
 the frigid, the temperate, and the torrid zones encompasses 
 the slopes of these tropical giants, is quickened into life by 
 their internal fires, and forms contrasts as sharply defined 
 as sun and shade. Here also one may pass in a few brief hours 
 from the cocoanut groves of the blistering tierra caliente , 
 to the wind-swept regions of eternal ice, through various 
 gradations of climate; which, oddlv enough, are almost within 
 shouting distance of one another. From the bleak hill-regions, 
 oftentimes honeycombed with almost fabulously rich mines, 
 one may literally look down upon sheltered winter stations 
 thousands of feet below, embowered in tropical flowers and 
 swooning in a climate of perpetual summer. 
 
 While many travellers will be content to share the life in 
 the sustainedly delightful sea-shore and table-land cities and 
 
XXIV 
 
 SEASONS 
 
 the beguiling winter-resorts which lie midway between, others 
 will be attracted to the charming Lake Regions of Chapala 
 and Patzcuaro, to the awe-inspiring Falls of Juanacatlan, the 
 roaring, smoking volcano of Colima, the writhing, bubbling 
 fumaroles of Jorullo, the thoroughly quaint old Isthmian city 
 of Tehuantepec — with its strikingly handsome Burmese-like 
 women and their bizarre costumes — to the gigantic Barranca 
 de Cobre — which is “ painted like a flower,” and which rivals 
 in size and beauty the wonderfully gorgeous Grand Canon 
 of the Colorado, in Arizona < — or to the labyrinthine Cavern 
 of Cacahuamilpa — a worthy Latin-American competitor of 
 Kentucky’s Mammoth Cave. 
 
 Then again, few great cities of the world surpass in beauty 
 or offer greater and more entrancing contrasts than Mexico 
 City, Montezuma’s sometime Aztec metropolis, poised a mile 
 and a half above the sea-level, in the lovely Valley of Mexico. 
 Its splendid mediaeval churches, its charming women, its 
 various Indian tribes, and its astonishingly picturesque cus- 
 toms and street life are always interesting. Here 16th cen- 
 tury architecture stands side bv side with the best achieve- 
 ments of the 20th century, and here exist many beautiful 
 relics of a civilization that throve mayhap in the early twi- 
 light of time — certainly centuries before the Pilgrims sighted 
 the bleak Massachusetts shore. 
 
 The writer will therefore present in this Handbook a com- 
 prehensive description of every place of importance in the 
 country, so that the critical traveller may select that which 
 pleases him best; just as he would were he in a sumptuous 
 hotel, before an ample table covered with a select repast. For, 
 after all, no one — not even he of the extraordinary appetite 
 and the fathomless capacity — is expected to go through the 
 entire menu, and the tourist may gain a very fair idea of 
 Mexico and the Mexicans without travelling to every part of 
 the vast Republic. 
 
 Seasons. Mexico recognizes two distinct seasons, the dry, 
 el estio,ov estacion de las secas (Oct. -May), and the rainy, esta- 
 cion de las lluvias (June-Sept.). The birds also recognize the 
 latter, and they contrive to hatch out their young and have 
 them on the wing before the rains, which would drown the 
 fledgelings. 
 
 In the tropics, where there is no winter, the rains define the 
 seasons. A different set of conditions prevail at Orizaba, Jalapa, 
 and certain other points on the eastern slopes of the Cordil- 
 leras. Here the wind-blown clouds from the Gulf impinge on 
 the cool mountains, and precipitate a sort of Scotch mist or 
 drizzle, which oftentimes develops into heavy rainfall. All 
 “ dry-time” signs fail in this region, and albeit the drenched 
 inhabitants pray for the sun to shine (comp. p. 504), it does 
 
SEASONS 
 
 XXV 
 
 so only when fine weather prevails over the Gulf, and storm 
 signals along the Atlantic coast are furled. The rainy season is 
 the healthiest and most delightful. Then the flowers bloom, 
 the dust is laid, the microbes are drowned out, and the land is 
 as fresh and sweet as spring anywhere. The heat of almost 
 every day is tempered by a shower, and although threatening 
 thunder-storms are features of certain sections, Mexico is, 
 on the whole, more charming than in the so-called winter 
 season. 
 
 The close of the rainy season corresponds with the autumnal 
 equinox of the north of the U. S. A. At this time vegetation is 
 at its best ; the harvest of fruits and grains is ready to garner, 
 and the migratory birds begin to arrive from the North. Count- 
 less thousands of ducks, geese, plover, and other birds spread 
 over the country, betaking themselves to the lakes and 
 marshes (comp. p. lxxvii), where they afford abundant food 
 for the natives and much sport for the hunters. 
 
 The Mexicans have a proverb which says : “ Febrero loco , 
 porque de todo tiene un poco ” (Feb. is a fool month: it has 
 a little of every kind of weather) ; but this does not always 
 hold good. Neither does the statement of a caustic writer to 
 the effect that the Mex. seasons are: Tres meses de agua , tres 
 
 meses de polvo , tres meses de lodo y tres meses de todo ” — 3 
 months of rain, 3 of dust, 3 of mud, and 3 of all combined. 
 
 It is the custom for travellers to regard Mexico as purely a 
 winter resort, and the greatest influx of visitors is between 
 November and March. The average Mexico City resident con- 
 siders summer the most attractive season. Then the city is 
 cleanest and the death rate lowest. Sometime during each 
 summer day, dense masses of black clouds gather about the 
 mountain-tops and release torrents of cooling and cleansing 
 water over the city. The quick downpours scrub the streets 
 and flush the sewers. The showers are usually of short dura- 
 tion, and they cause little or no inconvenience. The dryness of 
 the air renders the soil like a huge blotting-paper, and evapora- 
 tion is so rapid that the streets are often dry a few minutes 
 after the rains cease. Under the stimulus of the water and the 
 sun, plant life springs fresh from every nook and crevice, and 
 each tiny garden is converted into a tropical hortus. Toward 
 the close of the wet season the rains usually come at night, 
 and the mornings which follow are unquestionably the most 
 beautiful of the year. The atmosphere is deliciously crisp and 
 sweet, with a cool tang and a suggestion of electric vigor in it. 
 If the sun rises behind a cloud, it soon burns its way through, 
 and even during the rainy season one may plan a morning ex- 
 cursion with almost a certainty of fine weather. As a rule the 
 traveller may count upon a succession of clear, cloudless days 
 throughout the winter season. The longest day of the year at 
 Mexico City is 13 hrs.; the shortest 11 hrs. See Climate. 
 
XXVI 
 
 CLIMATE 
 
 Climate. The odd physical configuration of Mexico gives it 
 many temperatures and three distinct climates, all, curiously 
 enough, within a very few hours’ ride of one another. 
 
 The relaxing tierra caliente (hot land) begins at the sea- 
 coast and extends inward and upward to an altitude of about 
 3,000 ft., where the air is usually delightful, with a yearly 
 average temperature of 80°-88° Fahr. and an extreme of 100°- 
 105°. The best-known towns lying along this littoral are 
 Merida (p. 574), Vera Cruz (p. 469), Campeche (p. 569), and 
 Tampico , on the Gulf, and Guaymas (p. 78), Mazatlan (p. 90), 
 Manzanillo (p. 188 ), Acapulco (p. 460), and Salina Cruz on the 
 Pacific. The winter climate (Dec.-Feb.) of these places is ad- 
 mirable — like early May days in the Central U. S. A. — but 
 broken, at intervals, by furious nortes (p. 471) , which lower the 
 temperature and chill the marrow of the thin-blooded inhab- 
 itants. Oddly enough, the summer “ dog-days ” ( caniculares ) in 
 Vera Cruz or Guaymas never scorch or stew one as do the 
 “sizzards ” of New York. The cool land breeze which blows 
 seaward in the a. m. and returns at nightfall laden with salted 
 ozone and coolness makes life in tropical, white-clad Vera 
 Cruz, for example, with its palms and balconies and long mid- 
 day siestas, far more supportable than in New York with its 
 houses like huge furnaces and its heat-radiating streets. 
 
 The tierra templada (temperate land) lies between 3,200 and 
 6,500 ft., with an average all the year temperature of 73°-77° 
 Fahr. ; the variation during a season may not be more than 6° 
 or 8°. The finest of the Mexican climates is found between 
 these elevations. The immunity from heavy frosts is as com- 
 plete as that from extreme humidity, noxious insects, and 
 sudden temperature changes. Dryness is the emphatic qual- 
 ity, with freedom in the dry season (Oct.-May) from malaria 
 and a perpetual exemption from the keen, cold winds of the 
 higher altitudes and the hygienic deficiencies of the maritime 
 regions. Semi-tropical products thrive side by side with those 
 of the tropics, and there are farms where wheat and sugar- 
 cane grow almost within touch of each other. Certain of the 
 towns in this favored zone are natural, open-air sanitariums, 
 and the warm, still days and cool, sleepful nights are tonics 
 which bring many a sufferer (particularly from tuberculosis) 
 back to health. One of these health stations is Guadalajara 
 (p. 161), with an almost perfect climate aptly described as 
 “June with October touches.” Other towns in this land of 
 eternal spring, noted for a climate particularly suited to in- 
 valids fearsome of quick temperature changes, are Orizaba 
 (p. 489), Oaxaca (p. 528). Cuauhila (p. 466), Cuernavaca (p. 
 436), etc. The latter place is celebrated for its attractive 
 hotels ; as being one of the most favored winter stations north 
 of the Equator ; and for some of the finest views in the Repub- 
 lic. It is unusually free from cold waves (o?idas frias) and from 
 
HEALTH 
 
 xxvii 
 
 brusque climatic changes. The gradation of the seasons is so 
 gentle that the trees take on their new spring leaves while 
 still green with the verdure of the old year. 
 
 The tierra fria (cold country) — cold only in comparison to 
 the heat at the coast — rises above the 6,500 ft. level and ex- 
 tends to snow-line (12,460 ft. in the tropics); above this the 
 thermometer often sinks below freezing-point. The average 
 temperature of the alleged tierra fria is 59°-62° Fahr. with 
 slight changes except in winter, when a norte may bring a 
 light snowfall to Mexico City and topple the mercury down to 
 30° or 40°. In Toluca and the high mountain towns, the ther- 
 mometer has been known to register 20°. The rainfall in this 
 region is only one fifth as much as that of the temperate zone. 
 In the sunny pockets and sheltered valleys of the tierra fria 
 the vegetation is often quite luxuriant. 
 
 Plants will grow on the southern side of a mountain which 
 has snow on the opposite side. The sky over all the zones is 
 noted for its unrivalled blue, and on any winter day he who 
 seeks the sun in the morning will seek the shadows at noon. 
 From the elevated mountain peaks one may look down past 
 the temperate to the torrid zone; from the frozen cone of some 
 volcano to the warm waters of the Gulf, embracing in one view 
 all that class of vegetation which thrives between the Arctic 
 Ocean and the Equator. 
 
 The climate of Mexico City is usually mild, but exhilarat- 
 ing; ranging during the year from 35° to 75° Fahr. with a 
 mean temperature of 65°. Excepting in the winter, its great- 
 est variations are generally between day and night on the 
 same day. The tropical heat of the latitude is tempered by 
 the altitude. Throughout the year the nights are delightfully 
 cool, and a pair of heavy blankets are always requisite to com- 
 fortable sleep. During the short winter (Dec.-Feb.) the tem- 
 perature is apt to be affected by the northers which blow 
 down the Gulf. These monsoons of the western hemisphere 
 sometimes precipitate light snowfalls or hail-storms in the 
 capital, but the snow vanishes with the first touch of sunshine. 
 Rarely a winter day passes without some sunshine, and then 
 one instinctively seeks the shady side of the street. 
 
 The altitude is unsuitable for snakes, scorpions, and similar 
 reptilia. It affects culinary operations, and recipes which give 
 good results at sea-level have to be adjusted to suit the ele- 
 vation. Food values decrease by one-third, it is said. 
 
 Health. Mexico is as healthy as any country similarly 
 situated (comp. Population, p. lx). The table-land, or 
 Central Plateau, is unusually salubrious, and the natives 
 sometimes reach an extreme old age. The intelligent traveller 
 always takes certain precautions to guard against diseases 
 prevalent where sanitary devices and hygienic methods are 
 
HEALTH 
 
 xxviii 
 
 lacking, and similar measures should be adopted while in cer- 
 tain of the Mexican towns — chiefly in the hot lowlands. The 
 one-time great scourges of tropical Mexico, yellow fever (fiebre 
 amarillo) and cholera (colera), have been permanently eradi- 
 cated, but some of the coastal towns are not always free from 
 malaria ( calenturas , malaria) and typhoid ( fiebre tifoidea). 
 Typhus ( tifo ) is sometimes met with, and is usually traceable 
 to indiscreet eating or drinking. Every town prides itself on 
 possessing the “best” water, and certain of the old residents 
 will refer to their robustness and attribute it to never having 
 drunk a gill of boiled water in their lives. The observant trav- 
 eller, cognizant of the goodly number of worthy townspeople 
 tucked away in the local campc santo , will continue to use care, 
 particularly in places where statistics relating to mortality, 
 drainage, water-supply, and so forth are unfamiliar to him. 
 
 The low class natives and servants generally are igno- 
 rant of the fundamental principles of hygiene, and tourists 
 should bear this in mind constantly when dealing with them. 
 The visitor who samples wayside drinks and dishes because of 
 their novelty exhibits more confidence in native methods than 
 would an old resident of the country. Hotels in Mexico will 
 always provide boiled milk when it is asked for. It is an 
 excellent rule never to drink unboiled milk, or water that has 
 not been boiled or filtered — unless one knows them to be 
 pure. Artesian water is much used in Mexico City, where 
 many drink it just as it comes from the well. The purest water 
 is sometimes contaminated by being stored in huge tanks on 
 the house roofs and left uncovered and exposed to air, dust 
 and insects. This is a common practice in Mexico City. 
 
 In places where the water-supply is notoriously bad, careful 
 persons drink a certain beverage produced at Orizaba as it is 
 said to be made of the unusually pure mountain water with 
 which Orizaba is favored. The water in the mountainous 
 regions is usually purer than that of the coastal districts. 
 
 It is imprudent to sleep without a mosquito-net ( mosqui - 
 ter a) in a mosquito district. A few big safety-pins with which 
 to unite gaping mosquito curtains are sometimes worth their 
 weight. A bottle of flea-powder is useful anywhere in the 
 Republic. If your visit includes a trip to the tierra calierte, 
 a bottle of carbolic acid will often render sleep possible by 
 counteracting the unpleasant odors arising from open drains. 
 
 The Mexican tropical fruits are legion. They are oftentimes 
 delicious, but strangers will do well to eat sparingly of un- 
 familiar specimens until they become acquainted with their 
 after effects. Unwashed ground fruits and vegetables — straw’- 
 berries, lettuce, and the like — should not be eaten. The In- 
 dian gardeners are usually as innocent of ideas of hygiene as 
 are the cooks who prepare the vegetables for the table (native 
 cooks often mix the salads and oils with their fingers, and 
 
HEALTH 
 
 XXIX 
 
 they have been known to spit in a frying-pan to see if it were 
 hot enough) , and as the truck gardens are usually fertilized 
 with unspeakable filth — and sometimes irrigated with un- 
 clean water — the product is apt to be contaminated. The 
 Mexican pottery water-bottle is a pernicious conductor of ty- 
 phoid. The small neck will not permit of the bottle being 
 washed properly; when broken, old bottles are found to be 
 coated on the inside with green slime, just as would any closed 
 and unwashed filter. The bottles render the water cool but 
 microbic. A rubber hot-water bottle should form a part of 
 every traveller’s outfit. In the higher altitudes they are use- 
 ful in cases of chest colds and slight congestions. It is very 
 advisable to be vaccinated before starting for Mexico. 
 
 In Mexico City pulmonary and bowel troubles form the larg- 
 est items in the mortality list. This need cause the traveller 
 no uneasiness if he exercises the caution requisite to healthful- 
 ness in any climate. The altitude and the rarefied air renders 
 the taking of colds easy, but if the cold is attended to at once, 
 no evil results follow. A head cold is regarded as lightly as 
 elsewhere, but should it settle on the lungs no time should be 
 lost in adopting rigorous measures for its eradication. At high 
 altitudes pneumonia (the disease most dreaded by Mexicans) 
 develops quicker than in the lowlands and often terminates 
 fatally. At the bare suspicion of pneumonia the patient should 
 immediately seek a lower level. Cuauhtla (p. 466) and Cuer- 
 navaca (p. 436) are considered the health stations of Mexico 
 City. Avoid sleeping or living in rooms on the ground floor. 
 If the room be dark, damp, and cold it is trebly dangerous. A 
 room in which the purifying rays of the sun do not enter for 
 at least one hour during the day is not healthy — particularly 
 for weak lungs. Avoid the thin, cold, night air as much as pos- 
 sible. The unacclimated should avoid going out in the evening 
 without a light overcoat or wrap to guard against sudden tem- 
 perature changes. Mexico City physicians say winter under- 
 wear should not be changed for that of lighter weight till the 
 last of April — albeit spring begins March 20th in the Valiev 
 of Mexico. At high levels the difference of temperature be 
 tween sunlight and shadow is marked, and to become over- 
 heated and then sit in the shade to cool off is perilous. 
 Breathing through the nostrils, instead of through the mouth, 
 is the surest way to prevent taking cold on the Mex. table-land 
 — or elsewhere. Statistics show that the greatest mortality 
 in Mexico City (52 per thousand) is among young children 
 (the uncared-for), the unhygienic, and the intemperate. 
 
 An excellent safeguard against diarrhoea and allied ills pecul- 
 iar to high altitudes and hot countries is a woollen band worn 
 around the stomach. This prevents the sudden chill which is 
 the side partner of cholera and dysentery. Similar bands 
 (called cholera-bands) are worn in many cholera countries. 
 
XXX 
 
 WHAT TO WEAR 
 
 Sun baths at high altitudes are delightful but not always 
 wholesome : they exhilarate certain constitutions and poison 
 others — particularly those predisposed to malaria. In ele- 
 vated districts the golden rays of the sun possess a subtle 
 banefulness which sometimes produce curious disorders. 
 Their malignant action reminds one of the mysterious effects 
 of X-rays. After hours of exercise in the sun at high altitudes 
 strong men have been known to faint, without apparent 
 cause. The nerves of the most phlegmatic will sometimes 
 twitter and become jangled, and the eyesight is occasionally 
 disturbed. Then neurasthenia steps in and the small perplex- 
 ities of life assume gigantic proportions. A few days spent at 
 a lower level corrects these disorders. They can be avoided 
 by wearing the broad-brimmed Mexican sombrero — becoming 
 to men and women alike. Stomach and nervous troubles often 
 reach one through tired eyes, long exposed to the sun’s glare, 
 and travellers touring the Republic cannot do better than to 
 invest in a straw sombrero (cost 20 c.-$l) or blue goggles. 
 
 What to Wear. For the cities of the Mexican Plateau 
 spring clothing is necessary for the young and warm-blooded, 
 and winter outfits or heavy outer wraps for the elderly person 
 of sluggish circulation. On the table-land the sunny days are 
 always warm, but the shadows and nights are cool. During the 
 “ rainy season” (June-Sept.) certain of the days are like Octo- 
 ber days in New England — warm at noon, but harbingers of 
 winter when the twilight shadows gather. After sundown and 
 before sun-up a spring overcoat ( sobretodo ) or some kind of a 
 wrap is desirable. This is particularly applicable to Mexico 
 City and other places of a like altitude, as the keen, cold winds 
 which sometimes blow T are not beneficial to the invalid thinly 
 clad. It can be accepted as a safe axiom that summer clothing 
 is always out of place in Mexico City. In the coastal towns 
 the very thinnest clothing is acceptable. 
 
 In the towns near the 5,000 feet level, such as Guadalajara , 
 San Luis Potosi, Torreon, Monterey , Puebla, Cuernavaca , and 
 so on, the summer outfit should be increased by the addition 
 of a light overcoat and medium weight underwear, for the cool 
 nights and winter days, as the traveller should be especially 
 on his guard against chills and colds. Underwear and such 
 clothing can be purchased (usually of European make) in 
 Mexico cheaper, as a rule, than in the United States. Most of 
 the cities possess attractive shops (comp. p. lxix), where Euro- 
 pean and American productions can be bought at reasonable 
 prices. Sealskin coats are unnecessary in Mexico; unless the 
 owner of one of these obtains a permit when leaving the U. S. 
 A., customs duty is apt to be levied on the return. Ladies will 
 find a dust-bag for hats a useful adjunct when travelling by 
 rail in certain parts of the Republic. 
 

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RAILWAYS — FERROCARRILES xxxi 
 
 Cool off before entering churches, particularly those of the 
 highlands, which are always chilly. The courteous Mexican 
 realizes the marked difference in temperature between the 
 sunlit street and the cool houses, and the visitor is usually re- 
 quested to keep his hat on ( cubrese usted) until the danger 
 of contracting a cold is passed. 
 
 III. Railways. Steamships. Tramways. Diligences. Auto- 
 mobiles. Horses. Burros. Highways. 
 
 The Railways ( ferrocarriles or caminos de hierro), most 
 of which are under Government control, are excellent, well 
 managed, and remarkably safe. Trains are run at reasonable 
 speed and accidents are rare. Each year adds to the extensive 
 mileage, and to comfort, equipment, and safety. 
 
 Railway Fares (which are subject to change) vary slightly 
 according to the distance (which is measured in kildmetros — 
 see p. xlvi). Long distance rates are cheaper than local rates. 
 
 First Class Fares ( boletos de primera clase ) are (approxi- 
 mately) 5 c. a kilom .; 2d cl. ( segunda clase) 2 c.; 25 per cent 
 more if fares are paid on trains. To figure the cost of a journey 
 multiply the distance by the rate per kilom. Or consult the 
 booklet or Itinerario issued by the National Lines; it quotes 
 fares between the chief points in Mexico, along with other 
 information of value. Likewise the Guia Oficial de Ferroca- 
 rriles y Vapores de la Republica Mexicana, issued monthly, 
 and for sale on trains and at all the Sonora News Co.’s stores. 
 
 Children under 3 years of age, when accompanied by older 
 persons, are carried free: between 3 and 7 years, half fare; over 
 7, full fare. 
 
 Ticket Offices ( expendios or despachos de boletos) are open 
 one-half hour before the departure of trains. There is apt to 
 be a crush just prior to train time. 
 
 Excursion Tickets ( boletos para Irenes de recreo) will generally 
 save the traveller money when the dates suit his convenience. 
 
 Ticket Scalpers do not operate in Mexico, where the laws 
 are averse to them. Travellers may like to be reminded that 
 the law provides a heavy penalty for one who sells an unused 
 portion of a personal rly. ticket, or uses one made out in the 
 name of another. 
 
 Pullman Car ( Pullman , or coche dormitorio) Fares (also sub- 
 ject to change) are (approx.) 1 \ c. a kilom. for a lower berth 
 (cama baja) f and 20 per cent less for an upper ( cama alta). 
 
 Cars ( carros , coches). The 2d class cars ( coches de segunda 
 clase) are generally filled with the proletariat and are not 
 liked by foreigners. Ladies should not be taken into them. 
 
 Railway Restaurants ( fondas ), where table-d'hote meals 
 are ready for the traveller, are to be found at nearly all rly. 
 
XXXI 1 
 
 RAILWAYS — FERROCARRILES 
 
 junctions ( empalmes ) and large towns (pueblos grandes or 
 ciudades). Trains usually stop 25 min. Certain of these 
 fondas (thej^ vary with the management) are excellent; others 
 leave much to be desired. The thoughtful traveller will bear 
 in mind that about 90% of the travel is native, and that 
 Mexicans would not be justified in expecting to find their 
 favorite dishes at rly. eating-houses in the U. S. A. There are 
 usually compensations for the bad places; at certain of the 
 good ones delicious strawberries, wild fowl (in the lake regions), 
 venison, aromatic honey, excellent fish, good dairy-products, 
 eggs and chicken, and many delightful fruits and native 
 sweets are served throughout the year. Those who prefer to 
 eat in a more leisurely fashion are recommended to seek the 
 Pullman buffet and grill found on most trains. 
 
 Luggage Regulations: Baggage weights are computed in 
 kilogrammes (p. xlvi), and trunks weighing more than 115 
 kilos, are apt to be rejected. The usual allowance with one 
 first-class ticket is 50 kilos. (110 lbs.), albeit on through tickets 
 (between points in Mexico and the U. S. A.) 68 kilos. (150 lbs.) 
 are allowed. Excess baggage ( exceso ) is charged for according 
 to distance, the usual rate being about 2 c. per 100 kilogrammes 
 per kilometre. Hand-bags ( petacas de mano) ; steamer-chairs 
 (sillas para vapor ) ; rifles ( rifles ) ; bicycles (bidcletas) ; tool- 
 chests (herramientos) ; saddles (sillas para montar) ; photo- 
 graphic instruments (instrumentos fotogrdficos) , and articles of 
 a like nature are accepted as regular luggage and are checked. 
 Thin paper or cardboard slips are generally used as checks 
 (talones) and for the sake of accuracy, and to avoid delays, 
 the traveller should see personally that the numbers on these 
 slips correspond to those on his trunks (baules) or bundles 
 (b ultos). 
 
 The National Railways of Mexico (Ferrocamles Nadonales 
 de Mexico, Rte. 1, p. 1) start from Laredo, at the N.-E., 
 and link the frontier and the capital; passing through the 
 large cities of Monterey (p. 5), Saltillo (p. 12), San 
 Luis Potosi (p. 17), Quer^taro (p. 109), etc. Under this 
 management is the Ferrocarril Interoceanico (pp. 461- 
 499), the Mexican Southern, and the (formerly) Mexican 
 Central (see below). Also the F. C. Hidalgo y Nordeste 
 and the F. C. Internacional Mexican o (Eagle Pass Ruute), 
 which latter runs from the frontier town of Piedras Negras 
 to Durango (p. 100). Branch lines connect the capital with 
 Toluca (p. 194); Morelia (p. 202); the beautiful lake region 
 of Patzcuaro (p. 209) ; and the fine coffee-growing district of 
 Uruapan (p. 227). 
 
 That section of the National Lines which connects Mon- 
 terey (and Tampico) with Matamoros, and Brownsville, 
 Texas, in the Lower Rio Grande Valley, one of the most 
 prominent of the Gateways to Mexico, and destined to enjoy 
 
RAILWAYS — FERROCARRILES xxxiii 
 
 a remarkable development (comp. p. 50;) is referred to in 
 detail at p. 12. 
 
 The (sometime) Mexican Central Railway (Rte. 6, p. 22), 
 now a part (El Paso Route) of the National Railways of 
 Mexico, runs from El Paso, Texas, and traverses a highly 
 interesting region; touching the table-land cities of Chihuahua 
 (p. 25); Torreon (p. 35); Zacatecas (p. 38); Aguasca- 
 lientes (p. 45); Leon (p. 124); Guanajuato (p. 137); 
 Celaya (p. 127); Queretaro (p. 109); and, by branch lines, 
 the Lake Region of Chapala (p. 152) ; Guadalajara (p. 161); 
 Colima (p. 185); Manzanillo (p. 188); Tampico (p. 48), etc. 
 The Cuernavaca Division (Rte. 45, p. 432) carries the trav- 
 eller to sheltered winter stations where cold is unknown, where 
 perennial flowers deck the summer gardens, where Spanish 
 churches, palacios, and snow-capped volcanoes are features in 
 the magnificent views, and where the land is one of eternal 
 spring. 
 
 The Mexican Railway ( F . C. Mexicano), Rte. 52, p. 484, 
 links Mexico City (p. 232) with the coast at Vera Cruz 
 (p. 469) and passes through the cities of Orizaba (p. 489) 
 and Cordoba (p. 486). The scenery along this route ranks 
 with the finest on the continent. 
 
 The Mexican Southern Railway ( F . C. Mexicano del 
 Sur ), Rte. 59, p. 523, connects Puebla (p. 508) with Oaxaca 
 (p. 528), and brings the traveller to the Ruins of Mitla 
 (p. 534) , — some of the finest relics extant of the first Ameri- 
 cans. The Vera Cruz & Isthmus Railway (F. C. Vera Cruz 
 al Istmo), Rte. 62, p. 544, traverses a beautiful semi-tropical 
 country between Cordoba , on the Mexican Rly., and Santa 
 Lucrecia (p. 550) on the Isthmian Route. The Tehuan- 
 tepec National Railway ( F . C. Nacional de Tehuantepec, 
 called also the Ruta del Istmo Mexicano) , Rte. 63, p. 550, 
 destined to be one of the world’s most celebrated lines, is 
 described at p. 557. The Pan-American Railway (F. C. 
 P an- Americano) , Rte. 64, which leaves the Isthmian Rly. at 
 San Ger6nimo station and penetrates to Guatemala, is de- 
 scribed at p. 558. 
 
 The Ferrocarriles Unidos de Yucatan ( United Rlys. of 
 Y.) are referred to at p. 573. 
 
 The Kansas City, Mexico & Orient Railway (Rte. 13, p. 56) 
 penetrates Mexico at Presidio del Norte, traverses the rich 
 section of Chihuahua State, crosses the productive State 
 of Sinaloa and has for its Pacific Terminus (467 M.) 
 Topolobampo, destined to be one of the greatest of the West 
 Coast Ports. The scenery along the line ranks with the finest 
 in the Americas. The country traversed by the Rly. is 
 enormously rich and practically undeveloped. 
 
 The Southern Pacific Railway ( Ferrocarril Sud Pacifico) 
 
XXXIV 
 
 STEAMSHIP LINES TO MEXICO 
 
 of Mexico (Rte. 19, p. 74) starts from Nogales, Arizona, at 
 the N.-W., touches at Hermosillo (p. 77), Guaymas (p. 78), 
 and continues southward through Sinaloa and Nayarit to 
 ports and cities on the West Coast. Its destination is the fine 
 Jaliscan city of Guadalajara, described at p. 162. 
 
 The Mexico North-Western Railway (Rte. 12, p. 51) starts 
 from Ciudad Juarez and runs to the Sierra Madre district, 
 in the State of Chihuahua. 
 
 There are many minor lines (consult the Guia Oficial) and 
 the system {red) grows almost daily. 
 
 Among the expressions that the railway traveller will find convenient 
 to understand are the following: 
 
 ! Vamonos! — All aboard! 
 
 V einticinco minutos para comer — Twenty-five minutes for refreshments. 
 Aqui se cavibia — We change cars here. 
 
 El tren estd atrasado — The train is late. 
 
 Llegara a tiempo — It will arrive on time. 
 
 Llega tarde — It is late. Anden — Station-platform. 
 
 Conductor — Conductor. Garrotero — Brakeman. 
 
 A genie de publicaciones — Newsboy. Maquinista — Engineer. 
 
 Camarista del Carro Pullman — Pullman-porter. 
 
 iCuantos minuios para el tren aqui? — How long does the train stop here? 
 iEn que estacion hay restaurant? — At what station is there a lunch-room? 
 
 How to reach Mexico from the United States. 
 
 From New York. Few ocean voyages of the world excel in 
 picturesqueness and abiding charm the delightful trip from 
 New York City to the tropical Bahamas, to brilliant, historic 
 Cuba in the Greater Antilles, over West Indian waters to the 
 Peninsula of Yucatan with its strange and beautiful ruins, 
 thence onward to somnolent Vera Cruz, and Tampico in the 
 centre of the greatest oil producing region of the world. 
 
 The quaint, colorful streets of British Colonial Nassau 
 (where Ward Line ships call during the season), the splendid, 
 unfading glories of Spanish Habana, and the wonderful rec- 
 ords in stone of the lost Maya civilization of Yucatan, are 
 features of a voyage as great in its extremes as it is in its pleas- 
 ure. Smooth seas, lazy summer winds, ungrudging sunshine 
 and the bizarre and unfamiliar sights and sounds of tropical 
 places mark this voyage, which daily becomes more popular 
 with the travelling public. 
 
 The fine, big, fast, splendidly appointed ships (perfect to 
 the smallest detail; large, airy cabins, good food, attentive 
 service) of the New York & Cuba Mail Steamship Co. (the 
 Ward Line) leave New York City at frequent intervals (con- 
 sult the folders of the company) from the foot of Wall St. 
 (Main office hard by) for (942 M. — 3 days, fare $44 to $91) 
 Nassau: (1170 M. — 4 days, fare $43 to $100 according to 
 the ship and accommodations) Habana: (1580 M. — 6 days, 
 fare $50 to $120) Progreso, in Yucatan: (1973 M. — 9 days, 
 fare $54 to $132) Vera Cruz; and (1995 M. — 9-10 days, 
 
STEAMER LINES TO MEXICO 
 
 XXXV 
 
 fare $57 to $138) Tampico. Special rates for children and 
 for round trips. Consult the sailing lists, etc. issued by the 
 company. The Havana office of the Ward Line is at No. 24, 
 Calle Oficios, near Central Park. 
 
 Leaving New York the route follows the coasts of New 
 Jersey, Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, and North Carolina 
 to Cape Hatteras, thence across the northward-bound Gulf 
 Stream (so named by Benjamin Franklin) and direct south 
 to New Providence Island, in the Bahamas, — of which 
 Nassau is the capital. Andros Is. and the Great Bahama Bank 
 lie at the left as the ship makes for the Florida Strait. Key 
 West, Fla., is then at the immediate right, and Habana at the 
 left. The Yucatan Channel is crossed between Habana and 
 Progreso, and then the wide Golfo de Campeche , southernmost 
 reach of the Gulf of Mexico (an ovaliform sea about 1,000 M. 
 long from E. to W., 800 M. from N. to S., with an area of 
 about 700,000 sqr. miles, and an average depth of 9,000 feet, 
 compare page cxxvii). Vera Cruz is described at p. 469. 
 Yucatan at p. 572. Tampico at p. 48. 
 
 Ships return over the same route. As certain of them do not 
 always stop at Yucatan, the traveller is advised to consult 
 the local agent of the company before engaging passage. 
 
 Steamship Docks in New York. Hotels. Means of Trans- 
 portation. Railway Stations, etc. 
 
 On the return voyage to New York the Ward Line steamers 
 usually dock on the Brooklyn side, nearly opposite Wall St., 
 the point of departure. Taxis await the arrival of ships, but 
 if the economically inclined traveller does not wish to employ 
 them, he can reach the best of the metropolitan hotels by 
 means of the Interborough Rapid Transit Co/s cars. Subway 
 station about 3 squares to the left of the landing: 8 minutes’ 
 walk. Any of the dock porters will carry hand luggage and 
 act as guide for 50 cents. Trunks can be delivered to the 
 baggage agent on the deck, or receipts for them to the hotel 
 manager. Fare to any part of New York City, 5 cents. 
 
 New York is a city of wonderful hotels — so many, in fact, that the 
 stranger is often puzzled to know which will best suit his purse, his con- 
 venience, and his plans. One’s enjoyment of a sojourn in the world’s greatest 
 city often is so materially influenced by the comfort and the luxurious 
 charm of the hotel at which one lodges, that wise and experienced travellers 
 nearly always seek the best. New York is not quite New York if one lodges 
 in a drab little hostelry on a side street, away from the brilliance of the 
 metropolis, simply because the room is a dollar or so less than the charges in 
 the best hotels. And the result is not temporary only; the memory of it 
 clings to one long after. And the recital of one’s trip to one’s stay-at-home 
 friends is altered by the recollection. Besides, if one lodges far from the 
 Grand Central Terminal, whence the railways radiate over the continent; 
 or from the theatres or shopping centre, etc., one soon pays the difference 
 in time lost, taxi fares, shoe-leather, luggage transfers and weariness. 
 
 The great New York Hotels are in reality New York itself. The surging 
 
XXXV 
 
 NEW YORK HOTELS 
 
 tides of travel which forever sweep round the world meet and mingle and 
 part in their luxurious lobbies, which reflect the financial, social, and sport- 
 ing life of the metropolis. Here one rubs elbows with great people prominent 
 in the literary, social, diplomatic, and financial world, and here styles and 
 manners and customs can be studied to the best advantage. 
 
 The greatest and most perfectly appointed hotels in the world are in New 
 York, and the finest among them (like the Bowman Hotels and certain of 
 the lesser lights), so typify the brightest and best in hotel life that they 
 serve as prototypes or examples whence hotel builders and managers the 
 world over, from Paris to Buenos Aires, and from London to Tokyo, draw T 
 their ideas and methods of construction and management. Preeminent 
 among the New T York Hotels (and thus standing at the pinnacle of the 
 world’s best), distinguished wherever travellers foregather, and surpassing 
 all others in superiority of construction, equipment, luxury and service, are 
 The Bowman Hotels ( John McE. Bowman, President), overlooking beauti- 
 ful Pershing Square, at the very nerve centre of the metropolis and the 
 continent, adjacent to the Grand Central Terminal (and connected thereto 
 by tiled subways), and near the beautiful Astor Library, noble Fifth Ave., 
 the Art Galleries, Museums, Parks, Theatres, the fashionable Shopping 
 District, the Clubs, Broadway, and all that is New York City. 
 
 Travellers can effect a very material saving in time and money by selecting 
 one of the following hotels in which to lodge while in the city. Elevated, 
 surface and subway c?.rs radiate to all metropolitan points, as well as to 
 Long Island, New Jersey and other suburbs, with a service remarkable for 
 rapidity, safety and cheapness. On arriving at the Grand Central Terminal, 
 by train or street car, one can hand one’s hand-bags to a red-capped porter 
 and within a minute or two can be in the hotel. By delivering baggage 
 checks to the porter or the hotel management, trunks are delivered in 
 the room almost immediately. There are no excessive charges and no 
 delay. When one gets ready to leave it is but a step from the hotel room to 
 the waiting Pullman in the Grand Central Terminal. No trains are lost 
 through stalled taxis, and weather conditions make no difference, since 
 the connecting corridors are underground. 
 
 If one is limited for time, a hotel i oom near the station is worth twice its 
 cost, particularly in New York, where magnificent distances are the rule 
 rather than the exception. An important feature is that the Bowman 
 Hotels aggregate nearly ten thousand rooms (2,000 rooms with bath in the 
 Commodore alone) , and the stranger is therefore almost certain to find lodg- 
 ings; thus saving the time and money lost in going from one hotel to another 
 in search of a place to stay. Every type of first-class hotel accommodation 
 is available in these modern palaces, from one room with a bath, to house- 
 keeping apartments of almost anj r size. The quiet, unobtrusive luxury so 
 appreciated by people of taste and refinement, the comforts, conveniences, 
 the perfect service, the faultless food, the reasonable charges and the sparkle 
 and brilliance of the Bowman lobbies, make a strong appeal to the average 
 traveller. The Cascades, the Italian Garden, and certain of the other 
 public apartments of the stated Biltmore, its Tea Rooms and Dining Halls 
 are known the world round. The Library for the use of guests is one of the 
 finest on the continent. A garage with every device for the convenience of 
 guests and the safety of cars is a feature of the Bowman group, which is 
 composed of the following hotels: 
 
 The Biltmore (under the personal supervision of John McE. Bowman, 
 President; Eugene D. Miller , Vice President), opposite the Grand Central 
 Terminal (at the right, as one emerges from the station), covering an entire 
 city block from 43d to 44th St., and from Madison Ave. 
 
 The Commodore ( George IT. Sweeney, Vice President), adjoining the 
 Grand Central Terminal (at the left). 
 
 The Belmont (James Woods, Vice President), facing the Grand Central 
 Terminal entrance. 
 
 The Murray Hill Hotel ( James Woods, Vice President), adjacent to the 
 Belmont. 
 
 The Ansonia ( Edward M. Tierney, Vice President), a beautiful hotel in 
 the Riverside Residential District, at Broadway and 73d St. 
 
 All the foregoing hotels are unhesitatingly recommended as being of the 
 very highest class and satisfactory to the minutest detail. 
 
THE BAHAMA ISLANDS 
 
 xxx vi a 
 
 Nassau (so-called in honor of the House of Nassau, the 
 reigning House of the Netherlands), capital and chief city 
 (the only city) of the Bahamas, is a popular health resort on 
 the island of New Providence (about 20 M. long by 7 M. 
 broad) in lat. 25° 6' N.W. and long. 77° 22' W. It is an attractive 
 city in tropical surroundings, overlooking the sea, and filled 
 to overflowing in the winter with tourists from many lands, 
 but chiefly Americans. There are a number of good hotels and 
 boarding-houses (consult the Passenger Department of the 
 N.Y. & Cuba Mail S.S. Co., foot of Wall St., New York City, 
 for rates and other information), and many pleasant walks in 
 the suburbs. Being a British Colonial possession, English 
 money is in circulation, but American money passes current at 
 a reasonable exchange. The climate is fine and healthful, with 
 sunny, balmy days and cool nights. The people are friendly 
 and they dwell here tranquilly in a sort of happy imperium in 
 imperio which is a sustained delight to the northerner. Grim 
 winter with its days of gloom and melancholy is unknown; 
 brilliant and colorful summer reigns eternal, and the com- 
 plexities of life are far removed. Prohibition is not in effect. 
 The city faces the harbor from the north. Miami, Florida, is 
 145 M. to the W. 
 
 The Bahamas, in the British West Indies, comprise about 3,000 islands, 
 islets and cays which extend from the Great Bahama, off Jupiter, on the 
 Florida Coast, southerly for 700 M. to the Island of Grand Turk, north of 
 Santo Domingo. They have a total population of about 30,000 (the majority 
 of whom live on New Providence) and a total area of about 5,450 square 
 miles. The principal islands are Great Abaco, Great Bahama, New Provi- 
 dence, Andros, Eleuthera, Cat, Watling’s, Long, Crooked, Acklin, Marigu- 
 ana, Great Exhuma, Great Inagua, and the Biminis. The archipelago was 
 formerly known as The Lucayas : The Biminis are said to have been the 
 objective point of Ponce de Leon in his historic search for the fabled Foun- 
 tain of Youth. 
 
 Historical Sketch. When the Bahamas (an aboriginal Indian word) were 
 discovered in 1492 by Columbus, they were inhabited by a gentle and in- 
 offensive race of Indians whom the Spaniards carried away and forced to 
 labor in the mines of Santo Domingo and the pearl fisheries of Cumana. 
 They thenceforth remained unoccupied, permanently, until the English 
 settled them in 1629. Prior to, and even after this date, they were the 
 chosen rendezvous of buccaneers and other sea-rovers from the Spariish 
 Main, and ghastly stories are current of their orgies and daring adventures. 
 Nassau was long the objective point of these pirates, who are said to have 
 held many a council under the great silk-cotton tree facing Court Square. 
 
 The Spaniards resented the English occupation of the islands, and upon 
 one occasion they captured New Providence, or Nassau and its environs 
 (so named, it is said, by an English captain who found shelter in the harbor 
 from a great storm, and called it Providence in token of his gratitude) and 
 after murdering the inhabitants, burned the unfortunate governor over a 
 slow fire. Though dispossessed by the Spaniards, the English returned. The 
 islands repeatedly changed masters, but were finally annexed permanently 
 to the British Empire in 1783. At the close of the Revolutionary War many 
 Tories settled there, and they were given large grants of land. The white 
 inhabitants of the islands to-day are the descendants of these settlers. 
 
 The negroes are pure Africans, and though descended from the negro 
 slaves brought hither by Southern Loyalists after the Revolution, they are 
 quite unlike the average American darky. Their aboriginal traits are 
 strong, their features African rather than American, and their blood ap- 
 parently undiluted by a drop of any alien strain. They were freed by the 
 emancipation act of 1834. 
 
xxxv ib 
 
 THE BAHAMAS 
 
 Nassau . 
 
 The Harbor is 1J M. long by J M. wide, with a narrow en- 
 trance between the reefs. Hog Island (good surf bathing) 
 lies at the left of the strait as we enter. Big ships anchor 
 in the roadway, outside, and smaller boats carry passengers 
 ashore. The commodious landing is one minute’s walk from 
 Bay St., the main thoroughfare of the city (at the right). The 
 Port spreads back up the sides of a white coral ridge whose 
 flanks extend beneath the ocean. As the launch glides over 
 the surface of the translucent water the blue sky reflected 
 therein and against the white coral below imparts a decided 
 bluish tinge to the water and permits one to see small objects 
 at a very appreciable depth. 
 
 The kaleidoscopic life of the Port expresses itself in Bay St., 
 at the E. end of which, in a magnificent garden such as the 
 tropics only can produce, is the huge Colonial Hotel 
 (burned to the ground in March, 1922, and immediately recon- 
 structed). A number of attractive little shops after the fashion 
 of those of other English colonies, flank the clean thorough- 
 fare, facing which (right) is the Sponge Market, the Fish 
 Market, and other places of local interest. The negro women 
 one sees here with their starched skirts and bright raiment, 
 remind one of Jamaicans. The immense Silk-Cotton Tree, or 
 Ceiba (a Haitian word), or Bornbax Ceiba , in Court Square, is 
 locally celebrated. 
 
 The street names (King, Queen, Charlotte, Cumberland, 
 Frederick, Duke, Princess, etc.) suggest the Georgian period, 
 or the epoch of the Four Georges. They radiate upward from 
 Bay St. to higher roadways flanked by prim colonial houses 
 set in rose-crow T ned gardens from which one gets commanding 
 views over the lower town and the bay. Finer and more ex- 
 tensive views are possible from Fort Fincastle , an ovaliform 
 stone fortress a short walk N.-E. of the Royal Victoria 
 Hotel, now used as a signal station (caretaker sells specimens 
 of his handiwork; fees unnecessary) and erected by John 
 Murray , Fourth Earl of Dunmore (b. 1732, d. 1809; Governor 
 of the Bahamas from 1787 to 1796). The approach to the 
 knoll on which the fortress stands is through a deep cut in the 
 madrepore or coral formation, thence up successive flights of 
 steps. A short climb at the immediate right then brings one 
 to the crest of the hill. The steps bear the grandiloquent title 
 of the Queen’s Staircase, notwithstanding no queen is 
 believed ever to have honored them. The friable nature of the 
 stone walls on both sides of the cut demonstrates the facility 
 with which it can be quarried. The entire island is formed of 
 this calcareous rock, covered with a light, sand}^ soil. Numer- 
 ous springs have their origin in it, and these and the vivifying 
 sun and warm air produce many fine fruits, a host of tropical 
 flowers, cocoanuts, vegetables, and not a few fine woods — 
 mahogany, fustic, lignum vitae, etc. 
 
Havana. 
 
 THE ISLAND OF CUBA 
 
 XXXV1C 
 
 Government House, on Mt. Fitzwilliam, E. of the Royal 
 Victoria Hotel, at the head of George St., in the midst of 
 extensive grounds, commands an excellent view of the harbor 
 and distant sea. The piratical-looking statue which guards 
 the entrance to the grounds is of Christopher Columbus. 
 
 The Blue Hills range back of the Port and rise to a height 
 of 120 ft. Beyond this sierra lie (7 M.) the primitive African 
 settlement of Carmichael (where the negroes dwell in their 
 pristine simplicity); Lakes (about 12 M.) Cunningham, and 
 Killarney (duck shooting), and some caves in which a few 
 rather worthless relics of the aborigines have been found. A 
 sort of luxuriant neglect characterizes this part of the island, 
 which is overrun with palms and tropical jungle pleasing to 
 the eye but not commercially productive. The fantastic dirt 
 around the negro cabins makes no appeal to strangers. 
 
 The Sea Gardens, about 5 M. to the N.-E., are bizarre and 
 beautiful. Steam launches leave one of the several landings 
 twice daily. Fares conditional upon the number of persons in 
 a party, etc. Sail boats can be hired. Glass-bottomed boats 
 enable one to see the beautiful tinted corals, marine vegeta- 
 tion, a host of bright-hued fishes and a submarine jungle with 
 its many inhabitants. The water is crystal clear and the piscine 
 forms remind one of those in the Honolulu Aquarium and that 
 on the shore of the Bay of Naples. 
 
 The Lake of Fire (known locally as Waterloo), on the out- 
 skirts of the Port (ask any policeman or native) is an artificial 
 pond cut from the coral rock (300 ft. wide by 950 ft. long) 
 linked to the sea by a narrow canal which originally served as a 
 ‘ turtle crawl/ The tidal inflow is regulated by a water-gate. 
 The water is impregnated with tiny marine animals which at 
 night emit a phosphorescent light when disturbed. When the 
 negro boys swim among them they appear to move in a lu- 
 minous element, and the effect is weird. 
 
 The Island of Cuba. Havana. Hotels. Railways. Streets. 
 
 Churches. Parks. Morro Castle and other Fortresses, etc. 
 
 Havana. Arrival. There is so much of interest in Havana 
 that the traveller bound for Mexico will, if he has the time to 
 spare, arrange with the steamship company for a stopover 
 that will permit him to remain over and pick up a later ship. 
 The passenger department of the Ward Line will arrange this, 
 or the Purser on the ship will, if the traveller makes up his mind 
 after leaving New York. The Havana Office of the company 
 is mentioned at p. xxxv. A serviceable plan of the City of 
 Havana can be had, free, of any Ward Line agent, or the 
 Purser on any of the company’s ships. 
 
 Spanish (p. xvii) is the current language of the people but 
 this should never deter the traveller with no knowledge of it, 
 
xxxvi d 
 
 r HAVANA 
 
 Hotels , 
 
 for English is widely spoken, and the stranger usually has no 
 difficulty in getting about. Phrase-books and Interpreters are 
 on sale at all of the bookstores. See p. xvii. 
 
 The custom-house formalities are prompt, courteous and 
 lenient, one steps directly from the ship's gangplank to the 
 dock; trolley cars run in all directions, taxis await the arrival 
 of travellers, the city is compact, walking is easy and extraordi- 
 narily attractive, and within five minutes after leaving the 
 ship one is in the heart of the city. 
 
 Havana Hotels. While there are a number of hotels in the city, certain 
 among them widely heralded, not all of them satisfy the American desire 
 for cleanliness, good food, fresh air and comfort. The average Spaniard 
 still regards the fly with a friendly eye, and fails to swat him with the vigor 
 characteristic of the American. In various minor ways the oftentimes dark, 
 and frequently gloomy, native hostelry lacks the light and sparkle of the 
 modern American hotel, and the traveller from the North finds it difficult 
 to feel at ease in one. This has given rise to a type of hotel which caters 
 specially to American taste; a species of high standard American hotel 
 adapted to the tropics, with the comfort of the one and the charm of the 
 other. 
 
 Conspicuous among these international hotels, deservedly popular 
 and widely known for the perfection of its appointments, is the stately and 
 palatial SEVILLA ( H . B. Judkins, Resident Manager), a southern branch 
 of the equally renowned Bowman Hotels ( John McE. Bowman, President) 
 of New York City and elsewhere (the beautiful and commodious Biltmore, 
 the Commodore, the Belmont, the Murray Hill, the Ansonia, etc.). 
 
 With its splendid location near the fashionable Prado, Central Park, 
 National Theatre, American Club, New Presidential Palace, the Shopping 
 Centre and the chief points of interest, the Sevilla's beautiful lobby, patio 
 and palm garden make it the most attractive hotel in Cuba. It is a place of 
 unusual comfort and refinement. The social and distinguished diplomatic 
 life of the metropolis has made of it a sort of rendezvous, and here one may 
 see people of note from many parts of the world. The President of Cuba and 
 his entourage often dine at the Sevilla, and the wealth, beauty and fashion 
 of the island usually attend the celebrated The Dansants in the Sevilla 
 Palm Garden. At this time the atmosphere of the hotel is that of charming 
 Southern Spain, of Paris, Madrid, and others of the gay capitals of the 
 world, and the sight is one which the tourist will not care to miss. 
 
 The Sevilla Rooms are large, cool and airy, the food delicious (New York 
 chefs), the music good, and the service all that can be desired. Long dis- 
 tance (submarine! telephones connect the hotel with every corner of the 
 United States. Experienced Interpreters assist passengers through the 
 custom-house and look after their wants during their stay in Havana. The 
 reasonable Hotel Rates make the hotel as popular in summer as in winter. 
 
 Havana is essentially a Sports centre, and the Sevilla is a sort of luxurious 
 club house for the men and women who delight in them. Racing (at Ori- 
 ental Park, and on the Bay), Golfing (good links in the environs), Swim- 
 ming, Boating, Night Tennis, Grand Opera, the fascinating Jai-ali or Juego 
 de Pclota (see p. cxiii), and motoring through the attractive suburbs and 
 over the excellent sea roads roundabout are some of the diversions of this 
 beguiling resort. Sight-seeing autos leave the Sevilla at stated intervals for 
 points of interest in the city and on the island. Information relating to 
 sports, theatres, etc., can always be had of the hotel management. Time 
 and money can be saved by planning excusions with the manager’s as- 
 sistance. An excellent city map can be had free at the Information Bureau 
 in the hotel lobby. 
 
 The Climate (el clima ) is the perpetual summer of the tropics modified by 
 the cool, moist sea breeze brought in on the trade wind during the hottest 
 part of the day. The N.-E. trades blow almost every day in the year from 
 early in the forenoon to sunset; they sink with the sun and are gradually re- 
 placed by a land breeze which comes laden with aromatic perfume from the 
 flower-embowered hinterland. Thus the nights are nearly always cool. The 
 
Descriptive . 
 
 HAVANA 
 
 xxx vie 
 
 rains which prevail from May to November bring clouds that protect the 
 earth from the fierce rays of the sun, and the atmosphere is cooled by the co- 
 pious evaporation of the waters. From Dec. to May the climate is dry. Now 
 that yellow fever is no more, and the mosquito practically exterminated, Cuba 
 is healthful. The average maximum height of the thermometer during the 
 winter season is 85° Fahr., in summer 87°. It seldom rises above 90°, and 
 rarely falls below 70°. When this does happen it is due to the strong Northers 
 ( nortes ), the monsoons (Arabic, mausims — strong winds, — see p. 471) 
 which come down from the North and topple the mercury to about 60°. This 
 equable climate makes Havana (and Cuba generally) a delightful resort for 
 northerners who wish to escape the prolonged cold of the eastern winter. 
 The annual death rate is low, being about 12 per thousand. The average 
 rainfall is 54 inches. The Cuban climate produces none of the depressing 
 effects of that of the lower tropics. The Havana summer is cooler than that 
 of New York, Boston or St. Louis. The winter is altogether charming, a 
 sort of perpetual June with an early morning tang that suggests October at 
 the North. 
 
 Havana, or Habana, or San Cristobal de la Habana, often 
 referred to as the Pearl of the Antilles, a fair city on a tongue 
 of land formed by the sea on one side and the land-locked 
 basin of the harbor on the other, on the N.-W. coast of the 
 Island of Cuba, at the edge of the torrid zone, in lat. 23° 9' 4" 
 N. and long. 82° 22' W., one of the great ports of the world, 
 with a pop. of 300,000, was long the seat of government of 
 Spain in the New World, and was the point whence the early 
 Spanish explorers started on their voyages of discovery to 
 what is now the United States of North America. 
 
 No city in all the Americas unites within its ancient walls 
 more of historical and abiding interest than this age-old strong- 
 hold of conquering Spain in the Western Hemisphere. Founded 
 in 1519, nearly a century before the Pilgrims landed on Plym- 
 outh Rock, or the Dutch bought Manhattan Island from the 
 Five Nations, it has known the very presence of the valiant 
 men who discovered and made known our own America, and 
 for this reason alone it is of greater moment to Americans than 
 any other spot on the continent. No city records a more stir- 
 ring or romantic past, and none possesses a more charming 
 present. 
 
 Spanish-Moorish in character, with a striking individuality 
 and a delightful climate; inhabited by a likable people gay but 
 not frivolous and with a keen sense of the value of leisure and 
 recreation, it is rapidly becoming a southern Mecca for those 
 discriminating persons who dislike the rigors of the northern 
 winter, who love the manifold fascinations of Spanish life, and 
 who particularly like the ease to be found in a land not so 
 absurdly strenuous as to permit life’s joys to be overshadowed 
 by its increasing complexities. 
 
 To the antiquarian interested in the early history of America 
 under the white races, the Havana Libraries are mines of 
 illuminating information. The ecclesiologist will delight to 
 wander through its historic churches, the militarist will view 
 it as one of the strongest fortifications of the ancient times, 
 while the average traveller will find it a sort of local Hesperides 
 
xxxvi/ HAVANA Descriptive. 
 
 of manifold delights and unfading charm. The Cubans respond 
 enthusiastically to sympathy and good-will, and by those who 
 know them the}’ are always referred to as muy simpatico. 
 
 Lafcadio Hearn’s assertion that “ it is only among the Latins 
 that the charm of life still lingers in our western civilization,” 
 recurs to the mind as one idles through the chequered, sunlit 
 streets of this southern metropolis. To the uninitiated north- 
 ern eye it is a vision of delight ; the glamour of Castilian life is 
 over all — the brilliant parks, the gay Prado, the picturesque 
 churches, theatres, palacios , arcades and colonnades. The 
 flashing domes of the public edifices suggest Iberia and the 
 Alhambra, the ever-changing eddies of color in the streets are 
 Oriental in character, the barred windows through which one 
 catches fugitive glimpses of Eden-like patios and alluring 
 feminine forms recall Andalucia and Granada, and the dancing 
 sea over which “ kites sail circles in the golden air,” make for a 
 tranquillity singularly appealing to the northern mind. 
 
 Heliopolis should be the name of this southern metropolis, 
 for the utter winsomeness of the unvarying blue sky, and the 
 ungrudging quality of the sempiternal sunshine are sources of 
 never-failing joy to the man from New England. Everything 
 seems eternally splashed with refulgent gold; the animated 
 streets, the palms waving languidly above the park benches, 
 the beggars drowsing on the cathedral steps, and even the 
 American bounder, who, down on his luck, sidles up to one, 
 calls him friend, and solicits a loan for this or that chimerical 
 purpose. The sunshine adds such a sparkle to life that one 
 cannot at first believe in its constancy, and one expects the 
 winds of change to alter it all, and bring dark clouds and 
 gloom and tears. But these come not, and the sun shines on, 
 and the rays seem so to enrich every one that the hurry and 
 strain to live, the passion to expand, and the struggle to over- 
 reach one’s kind seems unnecessary, and are absent. 
 
 Throughout the rarely changing year the city parks and 
 driveways are brave with tropical flowers, and the Spanish 
 maidens one meets in the shaded promenades walk with a 
 lissom grace and attune the mind to romance. With an osten- 
 tatious disregard for time the people dawdle and sit about 
 and gossip and seem imbued with the laziness of eternal sum- 
 mer. There is ample life in the city streets at all times, but 
 little or no hurry. Nerve strain seems absent. Only the public 
 buildings are ambitious. The new ones rise like those of New 
 York, looking down upon squat neighbors and indicating 
 what Havana will be at no distant date — a felicitous blend 
 of charming S panish- American life with that of the virile and 
 materialistic North. 
 
 Certain of the streets are not above ten feet wide, with side- 
 walks not over 15 inches, and as one threads these murmuring 
 ways at noon or eventide, or beneath the argent rays of a 
 
Descriptive . HAVANA xxxvi^ 
 
 southern moon, one passes balconies where eager gallants 
 whisper Spanish nothings to shadowy forms within, and one 
 thinks of vigilant duenas , sloe-eyed inamoritas, rapier-and- 
 cloaked figures and romantic episodes connected therewith. 
 Apparently no travesty of a dead summer or a dismal past ever 
 throws its chill shadow over the face of this radiant isle, and it 
 would seem that no anxious life problems ever vex the Cuban 
 mind. 
 
 The night life of Havana is particularly alluring to one ac- 
 customed to the rather drab postprandial existence in the 
 circumspect North. It reflects in a thoroughly charming way 
 the passionate, insouciant life of sunny, southern Spain, and 
 of it the northerner rarely tires. If he finds it a shade too 
 lively he usually reflects that customs differ in different 
 localities, that one should not seek for motes in bright eyes, 
 and that if all countries and manners were alike there would 
 be little reason for, or pleasure in, travelling. Certain it is that 
 no gloomy ‘ watch and warders 1 dog one’s footsteps in this 
 Arcadian Isle, the “ purple goddess beloved of Bacchus ” still 
 exercises her soporific influence over the minds of the populace, 
 Dionysus celebrates his festivals with joyous moderation, and 
 the don’ts stuck up on the American grass are relegated to the 
 limbo assigned to them. Here star-eyed, radiant-faced seno- 
 ritas dance the winsome and beguiling habanera without fear 
 of being pinched by some solemn, horse-faced minion of the 
 law, innocuous sports taboo in puritanical districts come out 
 into the uncritical open, the half -strangled American feels his 
 nerves tingle with the pure joy of being alive, and under the 
 free canopy of a sun-splashed or star-flecked sky he lives “ a 
 day of gold in an age of iron. ,, 
 
 The entrance to the harbor is strikingly picturesque. When 
 the great ship sweeps through the narrow strait one sees that 
 it is scarce a thousand feet wide, but when one is well inside one 
 notes that the triple-headed bay expands to a mile and a half 
 in breadth to a length of three miles. Anchored within this 
 safe and capacious haven (about 9 square miles of surface; 
 from 1 to 7 fathoms deep) are usually the ships of many na- 
 tions, while bright and lively native craft ( guadanos — the 
 boatmen guadaheros ) unfamiliar in design to northern eyes 
 dart to and fro across the dimpling water. At the left of the 
 entrance, on a commanding eminence 100 ft. above the sea, 
 stands the grim, sullen old Morro (headland, bluff, cliff) 
 Castle ( castillo ), hoary with age and bearing on its lined sides 
 the recording marks of four centuries. 
 
 Mono Castle dates from 1587, at which time it was completed (by con- 
 vict labor) to safeguard the city against the attacks of the sea-rovers who 
 at that time coursed the Gulf and the Spanish Main. Prominent among 
 these buccaneers was the English corsair Francis Drake — long the scourge 
 of Vera Cruz and the Mexican coast. Returning from the pillage of Car- 
 thagena in 1585, Drake blockaded Havana and attempted its capture, but 
 was repulsed. The fortress was erected to prevent a realization of his 
 
xxxvi h 
 
 HAVANA 
 
 Morro Castle. 
 
 threat to return and plunder the Port. Like Gibraltar, Morro Castle is 
 partly hewn out of the solid rock. Deep moats surround it, and entrance is 
 gained over a drawbridge leading to the sallyport. A modern signal service 
 station occupies the stone building on the harbor side of the rampart. The 
 white light which flashes every 30 seconds from the light-house tower 
 (erected in 1844) is visible 18 miles at sea. A number of quaint old cannon 
 and other ancient Spanish equipment are features of the fortress, which is 
 reached over a picturesque winding road. Ferryboats leave the city landing 
 at frequent intervals. 
 
 The Castillo de San Carlos de la Cabana, further along the water front 
 from El Morro, dates from 1774 and is one of the show places of Havana. 
 It is a massive old Spanish fortification (1 of the 6 forts which formerly 
 defended the port), long used as barrack, prison, fortress and whatnot, 
 with many historical associations. One of the most interesting is the famous 
 Laurel Ditch, where political prisoners usualty were shot. The handsome 
 bronze memorial commemorates the patriots who died in the cause of a 
 free Cuba. 
 
 Historical Sketch. The fine harbor was discovered by Sebastian de 
 Ocampo in 1508, who careened his ships there while circumnavigating the 
 islands, and gave it the name of Bahia de Carenas (careening bay). In 
 1519, while Hernan Cortes was conquering the Aztec stronghold in the 
 Valley of Mexico, the small population of the town of San Cristobal , which 
 had been settled 10 or 12 leagues distant, in the Indian province of Habana 
 (whence the name), removed to the present site and settled the city now 
 known as Havana. 
 
 The conquest of Mexico and the subsequent development of that rich 
 Spanish viceroyalty, gave an early impulse to the settlement at Havana, 
 which at once was the haven and the outpost of the hostile shore of Mexico. 
 Its geographical position also made it a sort of outfitting port for adventure 
 in North America. 
 
 Fernando de Soto, the Spanish soldier who discovered the Mississippi 
 River (and who died near it in 1542) and who, ten years before joined 
 Pizarro in the Gulf of Guayaquil and was prominent in the conquest of 
 Peru, sailed from Havana on May 12, 1539, with 9 vessels and 750 men 
 (including many cavaliers of rank) for the coast of Florida (flowery) , and 
 for later explorations which included Georgia, the Carolinas, Tennessee, 
 Alabama, the Missouri River and other hitherto unknown places. (De 
 Soto's devoted wife ascended the tower of La Fuerza every day for 4 years, 
 watching for the return of her beloved husband. When news reached her 
 of his death, she died within a few days, of a broken heart.) 
 
 In 1534 and again in 1554 Havana was captured and looted by the 
 French, and in 1624 the Dutch tried their hand at it. The city was always 
 ransomed, and always after such an outlay the habaneros went out and 
 squeezed more gold from the natives, while the pirates sailed away to enjoy 
 their ill-gotten gains. 
 
 In 1550 the seat of government was transferred to Habana from Santiago 
 de Cuba. Occasional incursions of buccaneers made fortifications necessary, 
 and in due time it became the strongest city in the Americas. In 1702 the 
 war of Spanish succession gave it an impetus, and it developed into an im- 
 portant naval station. In the summer of 1761 the yellow fever first appeared 
 in Havana, supposed to have been brought there by a ship from the East 
 Indies. On June 6, 1762, the city was besieged by an English squadron of 
 32 men-of-war and 200 transports, with 20,000 men under the command of 
 the Earl of Albermarle. The city surrendered Aug. 14th, with a spoil esti- 
 mated at $15,000,000. The Port was held by the captors until July 6, 1763, 
 when it was restored to Spain in compliance with the stipulations of the 
 treaty of Paris. On regaining possession of the city, Spain immediately set 
 about strengthening its defences. As the revenues of the island at that 
 time fell below $300,000, a yearly payment of $1,200,000 was assigned to it 
 from the treasury of Mexico — which fact gives one a sidelight on the im- 
 mense revenues drawn by the Spanish Crown from Montezuma’s one-time 
 realm. 
 
 By the treaty of Paris Florida was ceded to England, and Louisiana 
 returned by France to Spain. The first of these events gave rise to a Spanish 
 exodus from the continent, which increased the population of Havana. The 
 
History. 
 
 HAVANA 
 
 xxxvit 
 
 second resulted in a remarkable military movement. French residents in 
 Louisiana refused to acknowledge the sovereignty of Spain, so Count Alex- 
 ander O’Reilly (an Irish soldier who served successively in the Spanish, 
 Austrian, and French armies; reentered the Spanish army in 1761; was dis- 
 graced and deprived of all command in 1786; born at Dublin 1722; died at 
 Chinchilla, Murcia, Spain, in 1794) fitted out an expedition of 2,500 men 
 from Havana, occupied New Orleans, reduced Louisiana and annexed it to 
 the captaincy-general of Cuba. On the breaking out of the American revolu- 
 tion Spain reconquered Florida from Great Britain. In 1795 the revolution 
 of Santo Domingo drove more than 12,000 families from that island to 
 Havana; and on Jan. 15, 1796, the remains of Columbus were brought from 
 the city of Santo Domingo and deposited with great pomp in the cathedral. 
 The English occupation of the city and surrounding country in 1763 gave 
 the first impulse to agriculture and trade in Cuba, by opening foreign 
 markets to its products. 
 
 In the course of time the southern metropolis waxed populous and 
 wealthy. The coat of arms of the city, which had been granted by a royal 
 decree in 1665, now became typical of the Port. The device consisted of 
 three silver castles on a blue field, and a gold key. The castillos were El 
 Aforro, La Fuerza , and La Punta , guarding the city and the harbor, and the 
 key was a token of Havana’s strategic position as the commercial and 
 military key to the West Indies. The Spanish crown showing 4 battlemented 
 turrets surmounted the device; blazoned on the shield were Siempre fldel- 
 Isima (always most faithful). A royal cedula of May 24, 1634, empowered 
 Havana to designate itself Key of the New World and Safeguard of the 
 West Indies ( Have del Nuevo Mundo y antemural de las Indias Occideu tales ) . 
 
 Until 1801 Spain maintained a commercial monopoly of the Havana trade 
 (and that of Cuba in general), and this system, combined with other features 
 of its government, restricted the settlement of Cuba almost exclusively to 
 Spaniards. Thus nearly the whole of the native white's are descendants of the 
 peninsular Spanish races — many of them shrewd, industrious, hardheaded 
 Catalonians. African slaves were first introduced as slaves in 1524, and there 
 was great activity in the slave trade until the middle of the 19th century. 
 Indians from Yucatan were brought in in 1853. The mulattoes are the 
 descendants of the Africans and Indians and whites. The aboriginal race 
 long since disappeared. Creoles form a large percentage of the population. 
 
 In 1830 Havana was spoken of as one of the gay capitals of the world. A 
 high wall protected by a deep moat 100 ft. wide encircled it, and powerful 
 fortifications protected it from the itching grasp of European acquisitiveness 
 and piratical rapacity. It was a city of opulent merchants, magnificent 
 churches, populous convents and viceregal extravagance. A writer of the 
 period referred to it as “one of the richest and most important spots on the 
 
 The Sinking of the U. S. Battleship Maine, Feb. 15th, 1898, was one 
 of the most momentous episodes in the history of the Port since its establish- 
 ment. It was far reaching in its influence, since it converted Cuba from a 
 monarchical possession into a free republic (1902). 
 
 During one of the spasmodic efforts of the Cubans to throw off the Span- 
 ish yoke Spain was so severe in its treatment of the unfortunate islanders 
 that unrestrained American sympathy evoked physical protest from certain 
 of the 17,000 Spanish soldiers and other Castilian residents of Havana. 
 In order to afford shelter to any American who might need it, the U. S. 
 war-ship Maine (Capt. Charles Dwight Sigsbee in command, with 26 of- 
 ficers and a crew of 328), of the 2d class (324 ft. long, 57 ft. beam, 6,650 
 tons, launched in 1890, valued at 5 million dollars) was anchored in the 
 bay off Machina Wharj. At 9.40 p. m. the ship was blown up; 254 of the 
 crew were killed, and 13 died later from injuries received. The mutilated 
 vessel sank at once, and remained imbedded in mud at the bottom of the 
 bay until 1912 when it was towed 5 miles to sea and sunk in deep water, i 
 
 1 The most careful investigation seemed to indicate that the Maine 
 had been blown up from the outside, and as the occurrence was one in a 
 long series of disagreements it proved the last straw. The forbearance and 
 consideration shown for so long by the great and powerful American govern- 
 ment toward puny and helpless Cuba has few parallels in history. The 
 
XXXV1J 
 
 HAVANA 
 
 American Intervention followed, and in Dec., 1898, the Spanish garrison 
 evacuated the city and was replaced by Americans. On Jan. 1st, 1899, 
 General Castellanos, last and 136th in the long line of governors who had 
 misruled Havana in the name of the Spanish King, formally surrendered 
 the Port to the American Navy. 
 
 American occupation of Cuba was the greatest blessing Providence ever 
 bestowed upon the island. It is to the credit of the Cubanos and the Haban- 
 eros that they recognize this. General Leonard Wood was the military 
 governor. The Americans began at once to clean up the Port, and in due 
 time it was converted from one of the filthiest cities in America to one of 
 the cleanest and healthiest. Docks were rebuilt, parks, streets, boulevards 
 and sea-roads were laid out, the Malecon was constructed, sanitation, 
 schools and other modern necessities were inaugurated, and one of the 
 greatest scientific discoveries of the age was made (in 1901) when Stegomyia 
 fasciata ( calopus ) was proved (by Major Walter Reed, Surgeon in the U. S. 
 Army, and acting surgeons James Carroll, Aristides Agramonte , and Jesse 
 W. Lazear ) to be a transmitter of the dreaded vornito. With its eradication 
 (by Major W. C. Gorgas, of the Medical Department of the U.S. Army) 
 Cuba became one of the healthiest countries in the world — as it is one of 
 the most beautiful. 
 
 Millions of dollars were spent by the United States in cleaning and beau- 
 tifying Havana and the hinterland during the three years the Americans 
 occupied the island. The first president of Cuba Libre, Tomas Estrada 
 Palma, was elected in Dec., 1901, and on May 20, 1902, the United States 
 formally withdrew — only to be temporarily recalled in 1907, because of 
 lack of unity among the politicians. This provisional government was 
 abolished in 1908 when the Americans finally withdrew and the Republic 
 was restored. 
 
 Directly opposite Morro Castle , across the harbor entrance, 
 at the south, stands the Castillo San Salvador de la Punta 
 (castle of the Holy Saviour of the Point), a bastioned fortress 
 (now used as a barrack) dating from 1659. Its ancient bat- 
 teries were once intended to supplement the heavier cannon in 
 El Morro . The handsome surroundings, the Malecon (sea 
 wall, embankment), and the broad and attractive Gulf Ave., 
 which extends thence to the suburban colony of Vedado, are 
 due to The civic spirit of the Amercian armv of occupation. 
 Once a disreputable dumping ground in the lowest quarter of 
 the city, it was converted by the army engineers into one of 
 the finest sections of the Port. Leading cityward from the 
 Malecon is the handsome Prado , described hereinafter. Along 
 the curving shore from the Punta to the Ward Line Docks 
 (hard by the fine Railway Station) extends a fine of landings, 
 ferry stations, customs buildings, and ancient, colonnaded 
 Spanish houses. Many of the latter are painted in warm, 
 creamy colors, others in colors that are irreconcilable but 
 which somehow blend into the landscape. 
 
 Behind these unquiet wharves and quays are the animated 
 markets and the busy streets of the city proper; a brisk Antil- 
 
 Great Napoleon claimed Belgium on the hypothesis that it was formed 
 by deposits of French rivers. At any time during the last hundred years 
 the United States could have claimed Cuba on the plea that as a moral, 
 political, and physical plague spot it was sui generis. During that period, 
 and even longer, it was a thorn in the American side such as no European 
 power would have tolerated for a decade. Until American science con- 
 quered yellow fever in 1901, Cuba in general, and Havana in particular 
 had been the breeding-place of a disease that annually leaped the Florida 
 Strait and took seasonal toll of thousands of American lives. 
 
Streets — Plazas. 
 
 HAVANA 
 
 xxx vi k 
 
 lean metropolis, charmingly mediaeval yet satisfyingly modern, 
 Spanish-Moorish yet distinctively American, and withal in- 
 tensely, sustainedly, admirably picturesque. It is a steady, 
 purposeful city, one with a distinctive individuality, astonish- 
 ingly old yet in no wise decadent, and one of the brightest, 
 cleanest Spanish survivals in the New World. 
 
 Obispo (Bishop) and O’Reilly Streets, both of which lead 
 from Central Park to the Plaza de Armas (near La Fuerza 
 and the Bay) are conspicuous among the show sts. of the city. 
 They are survivals of the old-time narrow streets and they 
 remind the traveller of certain of those in Canton, or of the 
 Bombay or Cairene bazaars. They are one-way streets in the 
 strictest sense, as only one automobile can squeeze through 
 them at one time. Awnings often reach from house to house, 
 above them, and here are some of the most attractive native 
 shops. Here, as in Mexico, the shops are known by fanciful 
 names such as La Perla (pearl), La Esmeralda (emerald), El 
 Regalo (gift), La Esperanza (hope), El Abanico (the fan), etc. 
 The fan is universal in Cuba, and along with it one can 
 here find Spanish mantillas, Panama hats, feather cards sim- 
 ilar to the Aztec and Hawaiian work, and a host of native 
 products (including the guava jelly for which the island is 
 famous, and which the native boatmen in the harbor sell to 
 the passengers and crews of transient ships). Handmade laces, 
 drawn-work, and embroidery are specialties in many of the 
 shops — most of which are conducted by Spaniards. 
 
 The Plaza de Armas, or Military Square, at the foot of 
 Obispo and O' Reilly Sts., dates from about 1519; it was long 
 the administrative centre of the island, and the spot around 
 which the social and political life of the Port revolved. It is a 
 pleasant, flower-embowered place, with a marble statue of 
 Fernando VII (King of Spain from 1814 to 1833). Several 
 interesting buildings stand near it. 
 
 The President’s Palace (el palacio del presidente ), with the 
 government offices, is at the E. of the plaza. The attractive 
 patio, surrounded by fine old arcades and balconies, contains 
 a statue of Columbus. The structure dates from 1834 and 
 was built during the administration of the governor-general 
 Miguel Tacon — who was to Havana what the (52d) Viceroy 
 El Conde de Revillagigedo (see p. cxcviii) was to Mexico; a 
 stern and eccentric man with keen perceptions, a highly devel- 
 oped sense of justice, and an aptitude for civic reform. He 
 was a stanch friend of the people and many stories are told of 
 his generous fair-mindedness. 
 
 The American flag floated above the palacio during the 
 American occupation of the island, and the palace interior was 
 to some extent remodelled by the Americans. The beautiful 
 woods used in its construction are from the Cuban forests. A 
 few steps E. of the Plaza is 
 
xxxvi? 
 
 HAVANA 
 
 Churches. 
 
 El Templete (small temple, shrine), erected in 1828 to com- 
 memorate the first landing of the founders of Havana. It bears 
 somewhat the same relation to Havana that Plymouth Rock 
 does to New England. It is said that Diego de Velazques 
 landed here in 1519, called the spot Puerto de Carenas, and 
 had the priest of the expedition sa 3 ^ mass under a ceiba tree 
 ( Bombax Ceiba) near the shore. When the bones of Columbus 
 were brought to Havana in 1795 they were first placed beneath 
 this tree (which at that time was believed to be 450 years old), 
 and the ebony casket and its contents were officially inspected 
 by the Captain-General before they were deposited in the 
 cathedral. 
 
 A bronze tablet commemorates the erection and dedication 
 of El Templete on March 9, 1828. 
 
 The column in front of the shrine marks the site of the origi- 
 nal tree — which was cut down and converted into relics in 
 1828. In the court is a bust of Columbus. The paintings 
 illustrating the First Municipal Council at Santiago, Cuba, 
 with Diego de Velazques presiding; the First Mass celebrated 
 under the tree in 1519; and the Inauguration of the Monument, 
 with portraits of Gov. Vives, and his chief officers, are the work 
 of Escobar, a Sevillian painter of the 17th century. — Opposite 
 the Plaza, on O'Reilly St., stands 
 
 La Fuerza (fortress), known locally as the Old Fort, a quad- 
 rilateral structure, with bastions, walls 75 ft. high, and sur- 
 mounted by a tower. Rising from this superstructure, uphold- 
 ing a cross, is the figure of an Indian maiden referred to as La 
 Habana . Built by Hernando de Soto in 1538, La Fuerza is one 
 of the oldest fortifications in America. Here De Soto left his 
 wife, Doha Isabel, when in 1539 he sailed for the conquest of 
 Florida, and here she remained four weary years awaiting and 
 watching for his return. 
 
 Long the storehouse for the silver raped from Peruvian 
 mines, and the golden loot wrested from Incas and Aztecs, 
 with which to rehabilitate impoverished Spain, La Fuerza 
 was the objective point of many a bold pirate who sailed the 
 Spanish Main. French, Dutch, English, and Spanishjmrsairs 
 have besieged and pillaged it, and in the 16th and 17th cen- 
 turies the fluvial lanes of galleons and the ocean trails of buc- 
 caneers alike led to or from this historic spot. In those days 
 the Law of Compensation worked with meticulous consistency, 
 and in a sort of dizzy circle; the Spaniards first stealing the 
 treasure from unarmed Indians, the sea-rovers taking it from 
 the Spaniards, and the strong arm of justice taking it, when it 
 could, from the black flag fleet. Many a red romance has been 
 enacted around this weather-beaten structure; romances in 
 which bold pirates, coveted treasure, a beleaguered fortress, 
 a despairing, broken-hearted wife, and a beautiful Indian., 
 maiden holding on high an accusing cross, are the outstanding 
 characters. 
 
HAVANA 
 
 xxxvira 
 
 The Cathedral (la catedral), on Empedrado St., at the corner 
 of the Calle Ignacio, is dedicated to the Santisima Virgen de 
 la Inmaculada Concepcion (the holy Virgin), was begun in 
 1656 and was completed in 1724. It is known locally as La 
 Catedral de Colon (Columbus cathedral), from the circum- 
 stance that the bones of the Great Discoverer were brought 
 hither from Santo Domingo, in 1795 (when that island was 
 taken over by the French), and were enshrined here until 1898 
 (when the Spanish government had them taken to Spain). 
 They are supposed to rest in the cathedral at Seville. The 
 fagade is less ornate than the usual run of Spanish- American 
 churches. The two bells in the tower date from 1664-98. 
 Among the numerous paintings in the rather sombre interior 
 is an alleged Murillo (see p. cxxxix) depicting the Pope and his 
 cardinals celebrating mass before the departure of Columbus 
 on his voyage of discover}^. The attractive high altar is of 
 Italian marble, with a baldachino enshrining a sculptured figu- 
 rine of the Virgin. 
 
 Other churches of note are that of Los Santos Angeles (Holy 
 Angels) on Monserrate Ave., near the Prado; La Merced, Cuba 
 and Merced Sts. ; San Francisco de Paula, in the Calle Paula, 
 near the water front, and the conventual church of Santa 
 Catalina, in O’Reilly St. None of them possess the wealth of 
 paintings or the rich gilded sculpture of certain of the Mexico 
 City churches. For a list of the Protestant Churches and other 
 data consult the local directory. 
 
 The Prado (prah'-doh), a charming boulevard designed after 
 the famous public walk in Madrid, extends from the Punta 
 Fortress and the Malecon , at the edge of the sea, through the 
 finest section of the city to El P argue Central (Central Park), 
 which in turn is linked to the fine Parque Colon (Columbus) 
 by the narrow Parque Isabel (named for Isabel la Catolica). 
 The Prado is to Havana what El Paseo de la Reforma and the 
 Avenidas Juarez and Madero are to Mexico City, and sections 
 of Central Park are to New York. The beautiful Hotel Sevilla, 
 the American Club, the New Presidential Palace and other 
 handsome structures overlook the Prado from the East. It 
 was begun in Governor Tacon’s time but it remained for the 
 Americans to complete and beautify it. There is a central 
 twin promenade between flowers and tropical shrubbery, and 
 a driveway on either side. At certain times of the day the 
 wealth, beauty and fashion of Havana may be seen here. It 
 is particularly attractive just after twilight, when there is 
 music by an excellent military band and all the Cuban world 
 turns out to see and be seen. 
 
 Adjoining the Parque Colon on the E. is the Parque India, 
 so-called from the handsome marble fountain (Fuente de la 
 India) of the Indian maiden who is regarded as a sort of tutelar 
 
xxxvm 
 
 HAVANA 
 
 Parks. 
 
 goddess of the city. Central Park is a gay spot, the choice of 
 the residents, and always bright with tropical flowers. The 
 handsome marble monument to Jose Marti (1853-1895), the 
 celebrated Cuban patriot, is the work of the Cuban sculptor 
 J. V. de Saavedra; it not only indicates the highly developed 
 native taste for beauty in art, but is symbolic of the intense 
 patriotism of the people in their long struggle for independence. 
 It was erected in 1895. Marti was the active spirit in the 
 revolution of 1895 and was killed in that year. 
 
 In the Monserrate Plaza, near the Parque Central, at the 
 head of Obispo and O’Reilfy Sts., stands a monument to 
 General Francisco de Albear y Lara (1811-1889), a locally 
 celebrated engineer who installed the waterworks and erected 
 the Vento aqueduct. 
 
 The Student’s Memorial, near the car cel (jail), at the sea 
 terminus of the Prado , is held in particular reverence by 
 Cubans because of the eight \mung Cubans who were killed by 
 Spanish Volunteers on Nov. 27th, 1871. A tablet records the 
 event. 
 
 The Colon Cemetery ( Panteon de Colon), at the W. edge of 
 the city, on a commanding eminence overlooking a wide ex- 
 panse of land and sea, beside being one of the most beautiful 
 burial-grounds on the continent, commemorates Columbus 
 (for whom it is named) and contains some remarkable monu- 
 ments. Conspicuous among these, and a notable example of 
 the sculptor’s art (the work of Saavedra ), is the handsome 
 granite entrance, surmounted by a group, of heroic size, repre- 
 senting Columbus and his advisers. The attractive panel 
 beneath symbolizes the Crucifixion. Just at the left, as we 
 enter, is the Student’s Monument, with twin figures typifying 
 Justice and Histoty. 
 
 Beyond, at the right, is a noteworthy memorial to 30 volun- 
 teer firemen who perished in a fire they were striving to extin- 
 guish on May 17, 1890, on Mercaderes St. The bodies of the 
 American seamen recovered from the wreck of the Maine 
 were interred here pending their removal to Arlington Ceme- 
 tery, at Washington. Many of the monuments are highly 
 ornate, and they recall the beautiful statuar}^ in the celebrated 
 Campo Santo at Genoa . 
 
 The National Library ( Biblioteca nacional), with upward of 
 25,000 volumes, at the corner of Chacon and, Maestranza Sts., 
 is open daily from 8 to 5. It is unusually rich in rare old books 
 relating to the discovery of America. Visitors are welcome. 
 No fees. 
 
 Vedado (inclosure, park), facing the Gulf at the W. of the 
 Port, is one of the most fashionable suburbs. Among the 
 palatial residences are many gay bungalows set in exquisite 
 
Camaguey. SANTIAGO — M ATANZAS 
 
 XXXVIO 
 
 gardens. There are lovely views of the ocean. A fine boule- 
 vard, and a car line lead from the city. 
 
 The Environs of Havana are tropical and picturesque. 
 White roads lead through many shades of green to flower- 
 embowered spots whence one gets beguiling views of woodland 
 and sea. Many of the 1400 miles of fine auto roads on the 
 island lead countryward from Havana. Some of the highways 
 which traverse the gloriously wooded hinterland are flanked 
 for miles by stately emperor palms — objects of rare beauty 
 in the landscape. 
 
 Railways with good trains, low fares and excellent service 
 (trustworthy schedules) traverse the island in every direction, 
 and reach all the prominent cities and towns, and the chief 
 historic and beauty spots. English is usually spoken in the 
 railway departments. 
 
 Santiago de Cuba (540 M.) is of particular interest to Ameri- 
 cans from the fact that it was made forever famous by the 
 American army and navy during the Spanish War. It was 
 here that Lieutenant Hobson and 7 companions sank the Mer- 
 rimac June 3, 1898, and Admiral Sampson silenced the bat- 
 teries commanding the harbor. El Caney and San Juan Hill, 
 near Santiago, will long be enshrined in American history, for 
 the American troops marched to the attack of the city over 
 this route, and here former President Roosevelt and his Rough 
 Riders acquired undying fame. 
 
 Camaguey, 340 miles from Havana and 200 from Santiago, 
 one of the oldest and quaintest towns on the island, is noted 
 for an excellent hotel (the Hotel Camaguey , erected by Sir 
 William Van Horn, of the Cuba Railway), for the number 
 and beauty of its churches (La Merced dates from 1628), and 
 the charm of its surroundings. A head wind and a boisterous 
 sea forced Christopher Columbus into the deep and secure 
 harbor Nov. 15, 1492, while he was coasting the island, and he 
 called the place Puerto del Principe (port of the Prince), and 
 erected a cross on a neighboring height, in token of possession. 
 Camaguey is a restful, flower-crowned spot, with a palm- 
 embowered plaza (the Plaza Agramonte), quaint streets, a 
 cathedral, charming old houses and pleasant environs. The 
 climate is mild, and the Port is a favorite winter resort — a 
 sort of southern Spanish Arcady with American comforts 
 grafted upon it. 
 
 Matanzas, on the N. coast, 54 M. from Havana, reached by 
 the United Railways, or by sea, contains much to interest the 
 traveller. The celebrated Yumuri Valley, one of the most beau- 
 tiful in the world, is hard by, while to the S.-E. of the city are 
 the widely known Bellamar Caves, smaller than the Mam- 
 moth Caves of Kentucky, and much like the Cacahuamilpa 
 Caverns described at p. 454. 
 
xxx vip STEAMSHIP LINES FROM NEW ORLEANS 
 
 Cienfuegos (100 fires), 195 M.from Havana, on the S. coast, 
 is charmingly tropical, with delightful surroundings. The 
 plaza is regarded as the handsomest in Cuba. 
 
 Cuba (cask, vat), largest of the West India islands (90 M. from Key 
 West, Florida, at the outlet of the Gulf of Mexico, about 7S0 M. long and 
 varying from 20 to 100 M. wide, with a coast line of about 2000 M. and a 
 population of approximately 3 millions, — 30 per cent of whom are tinted), 
 came into history Oct. 28, 1492, when Columbus, after touching at the 
 islands which he called Sa?i Salvador (Holy Saviour), Santa Maria (Holy 
 Mary) de la Concepcion , Fernandina (a certain kind of cloth), and Isabella 
 (the Spanish Queen), entered the mouth of a large river which he named 
 Juana (in honor of Juana la Loca , daughter of the Catholic Kings, and 
 mother of Carlos I. of Spain, and V. of Germany). The river was later 
 called Santiago, in honor of the patron Saint of Spain, and still later Are 
 Maria, in honor of the Virgin. The historian says the native name for the 
 island was Cuba, and that the Spaniards, catching at sound rather than 
 sense, continued the name accordingly. 
 
 The first settlement of Europeans in Cuba was made by 300 men under 
 Diego Veldsguez, in 1511. They founded Baracoa , near the E. end of the 
 island, and in 1514 Santiago, which was made the capital. A place on the 
 S. coast was settled in 1515 and called San Cristobal de la Habana (which 
 name was transferred to the present capital in 1 5 19) . The aborigines (of which 
 there were upward of 200,000) were kind and inoffensive, and the Spanish 
 treatment of them was so severe that Gomara, the historian, writing of this 
 cruelty, says that in 1553 not an Indian was left on the island. Plantation 
 workers from Africa replaced them until the abolition of slavery in 1883. 
 
 A range of mountains, more or less broken, extends through the central 
 portion of the island, three-fourths of which is covered with plains and val- 
 leys. The highest point is Pico Turquino (8,320 ft.) in the Sierra Maestra , 
 in the S.-E. part of the island. Upward of 150 rivers dash from the moun- 
 tains to the sea, though only one, the Caulo, in Santiago province, is nav- 
 igable for more than 50 miles from its mouth. There are a number of 
 caves in the limestone hills. Semi-tropical forests of primeval magnificence 
 clothe the hills in many parts of the island. 
 
 The Cuban Flora includes upward of 3,000 species of tropical plants, 
 among them a host of fine fruits. Prominent among these is the avocado, or 
 alligator pear ( aguacate — from the Aztec aguacatl ), banana ( platano ), 
 cocoanut (el coco), custard apple (chirimoya) , fig ( higo ), passion-flower fruit 
 ( granadilla ), grapefruit ( toronja ), guava, ( guayaba ), lime (lima), mamey 
 (mummy apple), mango, orange ( naranja ), pineapple (pin a), sapota (sapo- 
 diUa), sour-sop ( guanabana , from which one of the most popular drinks 
 is made), the tamarind (tamarindo), etc. Citrus fruits and vegetables to 
 the value of §5,000,000 a j^ear are grown. 
 
 Sugar to the value of over §200,000,000 is produced on the island. The 
 tobacco crop is worth about $35,000,000. The famous Vuelta Abajo, whence 
 the choicest tobacco is raised, is in western Pinar del Rio. 
 
 Railways crisscross the country, which also possesses more than a thou- 
 sand miles of good automobile roads. It is said that there are no poison- 
 ous snakes or reptiles in Cuba. The maja, a non-venomous snake of the 
 boa-constrictor type, sometimes attains a length of 20 feet; its skin is made 
 into belts and purses. 
 
 The Mexican Navigation Company ( Compahm Naviera 
 Mexicana, S. A.), with headquarters in Mexico City (General 
 Offices, Calle de Gante No. 19, Torcuato Mar cor, General 
 Agent), maintains a frequent and excellent service (very 
 popular, clean, fast, modern, well-equipped ships; good food, 
 low fares) from New Orleans ( Arturo M. Elias , Agent) to 
 Tampico ( Fernando I. Barrenechea , Agent), Vera Cruz 
 ( Alejo Bay , Agent), Progreso ( Emilio Marco y Cia, Agents), 
 and other Mexican Ports. — Puerto Mexico ( Pedro Ruiz , 
 
STEAMSHIP LINES FROM CALIFORNIA xxxvi q 
 
 Agente), Frontera ( Antonio Villa G., Agente), Laguna 
 (. Manuel Romero y Hermano, Agentes), and Campeche 
 (. Domingo Diego , Sues., Agentes). For ports of connection, sail- 
 ing dates, rates of passage, etc., consult (English spoken) any 
 of the company agents. The short trips on the coastwise ships 
 to the picturesque ports of Southern Mexico, between historic 
 Vera Cruz and the little-known but intensely interesting 
 shores of Yucatan (magnificent ruins, and the ancient Maya 
 civilization, etc.) make delightful excursions. Here primitive 
 Mexico and the architectural records of the people who 
 settled it thousands of years before Columbus was born, are 
 seen and studied to the best advantage. 
 
 The Pacific Ocean Service of the Mexican Navigation Co. is 
 mentioned hereinafter. 
 
 The Mexican States Line ( Compania de los Estados Mexi- 
 canos, S. A.) operates a frequent service (excellent big, fast 
 ships of modern construction, with passenger accommoda- 
 tions, comforts, food, amusements, etc. equal to those of trans- 
 Atlantic liners — very popular) between San Francisco 
 (Williams, Dimond & Co., Agts.), San Pedro, Los Angeles 
 ( Los Angeles General S. S. } Agents), Ensenada, Lower Cali- 
 fornia ( Goldbaum & Ojeda, Agts.), San Jose del Cabo, L. C. 
 (Jesus C. Ojeda, Agt.), La Paz (Antonio Ruffo, Agt.), Santa 
 Rosalia (Rodolfo Garayzar, Agt.), Guaymas, Mexico (J. A. 
 McPherson & Co., Agts.), Topolobampo (Predado Hermanos , 
 Agts.), Mazatlan (G. S. Coppel & Bro ., Agts.), San Blas 
 (Alberto P. Reynaud, Agt.), Puerto Vallarta (Lauro 
 Morett, Agt.), Manzanillo (JoseS. Razura, Agt.), Acapulco 
 (Hudson, Billings & Co., Agts.), Puerto Angel (Empresa 
 de Alijos de Puerto Angel, Agts.), S alina Cruz (Baldomero 
 Jimenez, Agt.), thence southward to various ports in Guate- 
 mala, Salvador, and Nicaragua — where trans-shipment is 
 made for many points in Central and South America. Trans- 
 shipment is also made from the chief Mexican Ports to minor 
 ones not listed. Steamers connect at San Francisco with 
 others for Northern Pacific Ports and the Orient; at 
 S alin a Cruz and Central American Ports with ships for 
 European and Atlantic Ports. At Salina Cruz a direct 
 Railway connection is made to Puerto Mexico and Vera 
 Cruz and to ships sailing thence to New Orleans, New 
 York, Cuba, and European Ports. 
 
 Information pertaining to the fleet, time of departure, fares, 
 etc., can be had from any of the company’s agents. 
 
 The Pacific Mail Steamship Company (headquarters in 
 San Francisco, 508 California St., W. A. Young, Jr., General 
 Passenger Agent), operates a fleet of modern and luxurious 
 steamers sailing at regular intervals (consult any of the com- 
 pany agents) between San Francisco and Mazatlan (Ramon 
 
xxxvir STEAMSHIP LINES FROM CALIFORNIA 
 
 Cevallos, Agent), San Blas ( Dolores E. Viuda de Lanzagorta, 
 Agente), Manzanillo ( Adolfo Stoll &Co., Agents), Acapulco 
 (Hudson, Billings & Co., Agents), and S alina Cruz (Guzman 
 & Nyrup, Agentes) — thence onward to various ports in 
 Guatemala, Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa 
 Rica, and the Panama Canal Zone (where connections are 
 made with the chief South American ports). The service 
 (excellent in every detail) is a southern extension of the inter- 
 nationally popular Trans-Pacific Service (San Francisco to 
 Japan and China) of the Pacific Mail S. S. Co., the oldest 
 steamship company flying the American flag on the Pacific 
 Ocean. Reasonable rates. Through tickets are sold to points 
 in the interior of Mexico, and through and across the Panama 
 Canal. Interesting information relating to the different serv- 
 ices will be found in the handsomeh 7 illustrated monthly 
 magazine, the “Pacific Mail/’ free on request. 
 
 The Mexican Navigation Company operates an excellent 
 and frequent service (similar to that in the Gulf of Mexico) 
 between San Francisco ( Francisco Seldner , Agt.), San 
 Pedro, Cal. (Los Angeles Forwarding Co., Agts.), San 
 Diego, Cal. (G. 0. Beermaker, Agt.), Ensenada, Lower 
 Cal. (Lois H. del Rio, Agt.), San Jose del Cabo, L. C. 
 (Eduardo Ruiz, Agt.), La Paz, L. C. (IF. IF esterman, Agt.), 
 Loreto, L. C. (Salvador Romero, Agt.), Mulege, L. C. 
 (Manuel Leal , Agt.), Santa Rosalia, L. C. (Jose Ibern, h. 
 Agt.), Guaymas, Mex. (IF. Iberri e Hijos Sues., Agentes), 
 Topolobampo (Preciado Hermanos, Agts.), Mazatlan 
 (Martin Careaga, Agt.), San Blas (A. Reynaud, Agt.), 
 Puerto Vallarta (P. Maisterrena e Hijos, Agts.), Man- 
 zanillo (Alfredo Ruiseco, Agt.), Zihuatanejo ( Vidal Castro, 
 Agt.), Acapulco (B. Fernandez & Cia, Sues. Agts.), Puerto 
 Angel (Agenda Maritima de Puerto Angel, Agts.), Minizo 
 (Cosme del Valle & Cia, Agts.), and Salina Cruz (Sanjurjo, 
 Morreres & Cia, Agts.). The local agente in Guaymas is Serwr 
 Luis G. Iberri. In Guadalajara, Sr. Axel Bulle. For sailing 
 dates, rates of passage, etc., apply to any of the agents. 
 
 Railway Lines from the U. S. A. 
 
 Various Railway Lines centre at the Mexican frontier and 
 connect there with the National Railwaj'S of Mexico for points 
 in the Republic. Some of these lines run through the semi-arid 
 regions of the Southwest and thus offer but little novelty or 
 picturesqueness: others penetrate highly cultivated districts 
 noted for attractive scenery, fine fruits, and almost limitless 
 resources. Such a region is that traversed by the Gulf Coast 
 Lines from quaint and historic New Orleans — the most 
 delightful survival of the romantic Spanish-French-Creole 
 cities of the South before the Civil War — through semi- 
 tropical Louisiana and Texas (Beaumont, Houston, Galves- 
 
TRAMWAYS 
 
 XXXVll 
 
 ton, Corpus Christi, etc.) to the rich, luxuriant, and increas- 
 ingly celebrated Lower Rio Grande Valley, or Brownsville 
 Country, referred to at p. 12. Scarcely a mile of the line but 
 contains something of interest to the traveller: who reaps the 
 additional advantage of entering Mexico through Browns- 
 ville and Matamoros, one of its most attractive gateways 
 (and nearest by many miles to Washington, Baltimore, Phila- 
 delphia, New York, Boston and the East), thence across the 
 fine, semi-tropical Mexican State of Tamaulipas on the route 
 to Monterey, Tampico, Mexico City or other points south. 
 Through Pullman and Club Cafe Cars run from Houston to 
 Mexican points, and there are connecting Pullmans at New 
 Orleans for the border. 
 
 From New Orleans eastward there is a choice of many lines, 
 each of which runs through some attractive section of the 
 South. New Orleans makes an ideal connecting point, as time 
 spent there is always replete with charm. 
 
 Tramways ( tranvias ) are found in nearly all the large towns 
 and in many of the smaller ones. The tranvias elcctricos 
 are rapidly superseding the mule-power (traction animal) 
 lines. As a general rule, the tram-line connects the railway 
 station with the main plaza, near which (in the smaller towns) 
 will be found the hotels, the palacio , post- and telegraph- 
 offices, and whatnot. The economical traveller will find the 
 cars generally convenient, cheaper than cabs, and almost 
 as satisfactory. The first-class cars (fares usually 6-10 c. the 
 trip, double at night) are favored by the foreigners and the bet- 
 ter class natives. The second-class cars (fares usually one half 
 those of the first class) are generally filled with people of the 
 commonaltv. Detailed reference to the lines of the different 
 towns will be found under the proper headings in the Hand- 
 book. Where possible only the correct change should be 
 handed the conductor. Where tickets are given in exchange 
 for fares, they should be kept until the inspector comes round 
 to punch them. The local custom is to enter cars at the rear 
 and pass out through the front door. In certain towns the 
 cars leave the central plaza, or their termini, for the rly. sta- 
 tion, from one half hr. to one hr. before trains arrive or 
 leave. If the last car is missed the traveller may have to make 
 the journey afoot — which may be inconvenient if one has 
 considerable luggage. In small towns cabs are not always 
 to be had. Even in the larger cities they are apt to be scarce 
 in the early morning. 
 
 Stage-Coaches or Diligences ( diligencias ) are still used in 
 outlying districts and as links between rly. stations, mining- 
 camps, and small towns. Distances are usually regulated and 
 paid for by the trip — between objective points. To those 
 who love the country and its quaint inns and haciendas , 
 
AUTOMOBILES 
 
 xxxv iii 
 
 and who do not mind trifling discomforts, this style of travel- 
 ling possesses a special charm. The Mexican country — bar- 
 ring the dusty, wind-swept highlands — is always interesting, 
 and the old “Concords,” swung on huge leather springs and 
 drawn by squads of racing mules, recall cherished memories of 
 Colonial and less strenuous days. These diligencias vibrate like 
 ponderous shuttles between the places yet untouched by the 
 blighting hand of progress, but they form a fast-disappearing 
 type. 
 
 The point of departure for diligencias is usually the chief 
 inn or meson of the town; the proprietor is generally in touch 
 with the administrador (manager) of the line ( linea ) , and hand' 
 bills ( anundos ) quoting rates and departures are, as a rule, to 
 be found in the hotel lobbies. The front seats on top of the 
 vehicle (comp. p. 151) are preferable to, and usually a bit dearer 
 than, those inside — adentro. Places should be secured well 
 in advance. Diligencias run very irregularly during the rainy 
 season, on account of impassable roads, and the traveller should 
 not make important matters hinge upon close connections. 
 When the roads are very bad horses are often substituted, and 
 likewise a lighter vehicle called a guayin — a species of covered 
 buckboard. These can always be hired for small parties. 
 The average luggage allowance is 10-15 kilos. Rates differ 
 with the character of the country. On smooth roads ( caminos 
 buenos ) about 5 c. a kilom. is charged ; while three or four times 
 this much will be asked in mountainous districts. (For a list of 
 diligences, time, and fares, consult the Guia Oficial.) Meals 
 are usually provided at the coaches’ own baiting-stations, at 
 reasonable prices. 
 
 Automobiles. Automobiling is popular in Mexico despite 
 the poor condition of many of the country roads. Commodious 
 garages, where autos can be rented, are to be found in most 
 of the large towns. Before attempting to operate machines, 
 visitors should acquaint themselves with the local regula- 
 tions governing autos, as these differ in different localities. 
 Country trips should not be undertaken without the advice 
 of some friend, or of the manager of the local garage. When 
 long trips are contemplated, the question of a supply of fuel 
 should be considered, as gasoline (which in Mex. costs from 
 80 c. to one peso a gallon) is not always to be had in interior 
 towns. The roads in the vicinity of Mexico City are fairly 
 good — some are excellent — and the favorite runs are to 
 Toluca , Cuernavaca , the suburban towns of Tlalpan, San 
 Angel , Xochimilco , etc., and to the beautiful Park of CJiapul- 
 tepec. In Mexico City (and nearly everywhere in the Repub.) 
 the chauffeur must possess a license, which he can obtain only 
 after a proof of his ability to manage a machine. The appli- 
 cation must be made to the Governor of the F ederal District, 
 must bear a 50 c. revenue stamp, and must state what experi- 
 
HORSES 
 
 XXXIX 
 
 ence the applicant has had in the running of automobiles. If 
 the license is granted, it must bear a photograph of the appli- 
 cant, and a duplicate is kept in the registry office. A copy of 
 the municipal regulations governing autos can also be had by 
 applying to the Governor. Each machine must bear a num- 
 ber, which is supplied at a reasonable cost. The government 
 tax is based on the power of the machine. A native chafer 
 gets from 150 to 250 pesos a month. An international highway 
 between the U. S. A. and Mexico is under construction. Also 
 many interstate roads. Ford machines are widely used in 
 Mexico for public (taxis) and private purposes. 
 
 There are hundreds of fine autos in the capital, where 
 public automobiles for sight-seeing are features. Rates on 
 application at the garages. 
 
 Horses. Mexico is a land of horses ( cahallos ), many of them 
 excellent, and they occupy a prominent place in the national 
 customs and economy. They were first brought to Mexico 
 by the Spaniards, and the prevailing strain is still Andalusian. 
 The native breed is, as a rule, small, though wiry and endur- 
 ing. Most of the large, fine horses one sees in the Mexican 
 capital are of imported (American) stock. The native love for 
 horses is proverbial, albeit the lower classes and the Spaniards 
 are not always gentle in their treatment of them. The hacen- 
 dados and rancheros (farmers and ranchmen) know the value 
 of these animals, and some possess well-filled stables of fine 
 stock. Horse-breeding is an extensive industry in certain of 
 the Mexican States — chiefly those of the Central Plateau 
 and of the north. Horses may be hired almost anywhere, and 
 in cases where the hotel does not possess a stable, the manager 
 usually knows where to find the best animals. Prices in Mex- 
 ico City range from $3-$4 for a forenoon, to $10 a day; in the 
 smaller cities and towns good saddle-horses can be hired for 
 S3.50-S5 a day. 
 
 Thirty-five or forty miles are considered a good day’s travel. 
 Mex. saddles ( sillas de montar — very comfortable and much 
 safer than English) are preferable for long rides. The bits 
 (frenos) are cruel contrivances, and tender-mouthed animals 
 respond instantly to the slightest pressure on the bridle (ri- 
 enda). The stranger is counselled to test the animal’s obedi- 
 ence to the bit upon starting out, as a quick jerk will throw 
 a sensitive horse on his haunches and perchance unseat the 
 rider. A well-padded saddle is requisite to comfort on a long 
 ride. Mex. horses are so accustomed to the exaggerated and 
 oftentimes cruelly sharp rowels ( rodaja de espuela) of the na- 
 tive spur ( espuela ) that a very slight heel pressure urges them 
 forward; they are hrioso (spirited) under the whip ( latigo ), 
 which should rarely be employed. 
 
xl 
 
 BURROS — HIGHWAYS 
 
 Those who can ride only on an English saddle should pro- 
 cure one before starting, as they are not always available in 
 the smaller towns. Ladies must not expect to find side-sad- 
 dles ( silla de montar de mujer) in any but the larger towns. 
 Mexican women ride but little on horseback, although donkey 
 riding is popular. The contrivance used by them is a sort 
 of chair ( aparejo ) with a foot-board to rest the feet. Men 
 oftentimes use these when riding burros, and children find 
 them admirable, as they afford a good hold and are restful 
 withal. The stableman ( administrador del establo ) usually 
 sends a mozo (on country excursions) to l#ok after the horses. 
 His services are free (small propina acceptable and custom- 
 ary) , but his horse is charged for. In remote places the trav- 
 eller should always call on the Jefe Politico (chief magis- 
 trate) , and, when necessary, ask him for an escort to the next 
 town. This is as a rule cheerfully furnished (fee to the escort 
 not obligatory but advisable) and the traveller thus keeps in 
 touch with the authorities and is not lost sight of by them. 
 
 Burros (donkeys), aptly termed the “short and simple ani- 
 mals of the poor,” abound in Mexico, where they are much 
 used as beasts of burden ; on short excursions they are popular 
 substitutes for the horse, and are much cheaper. They are 
 always available in the small towns (not much used in Mex. 
 City) and they can be hired from the stables, from the head- 
 waiter at the hotel, or from any of the lads who haunt the 
 hotel entrances and offer their services as guides. They cost 
 from 75 c. to SI. 50 a day (usually 50 c. for a half day), and 
 they should always be accompanied by a driver — arriero — 
 (small fee) , as they are contumacious and refuse to walk ( andar ) 
 unless continually prodded. They are not speedy, and they 
 stumble easily when hurried. Saddles can generally be had for 
 the asking, although the soft pads are more comfortable and 
 less trying on the leg muscles. The aparejo is recommended 
 for ladies and children. A short, sharp stick (or a pointed lead- 
 pencil) carried in the pocket will often rescue the animal from 
 a sound sleep in the middle of the road. Burro is the word 
 used in an effort to accelerate the burro’s speed. 
 
 Highways. With very few exceptions the Mex. highways 
 ( caminos reales ) are safe. Since the introduction of automo- 
 biles. the roads between certain of the larger cities have been 
 improved : new stretches are being opened from time to time. 
 
 The native travellers one meets on the highroads often 
 have vague ideas of distances. A league ( una legua — about 
 3 Eng. miles) and a kilometre (un kil&metro — f of 1 M.) are 
 susceptible of wide variations in the native mind. No may 
 lejos — not very far — should be taken with a grain of salt; 
 likewise lejitos (somewhat distant) , which may be interpreted 
 as 1 or 20 M. On the Mex. table-land, where the air is rare. 
 
POST-OFFICES 
 
 xli 
 
 sight is not dependable. A mountain which looks within easy 
 walking distance may be 50 M. away. The fantastic mirage 
 increases the uncertainty. Before breakfast strolls should be 
 taken with this in mind. 
 
 The rude crosses, the traveller often sees by the roadside, usually 
 mark the spot where some unfortunate has met a violent death. 
 
 IV. Post-Office. Telegraph-Office. Telephones. Weights and 
 Measures. Time. 
 
 Post-offices ( oficinas de correo) in interior towns are usually 
 in or near the palacio federal or the p. municipal , which, in 
 turn, are customarily found facing the Plaza de la Consti- 
 tution (comp. p. liii). The larger cities are provided with 
 branch-offices ( sucursales ) . Street boxes ( buzones ) are usually 
 painted red to differentiate them from the blue boxes of the 
 Telegraph Co. Important letters should be posted by the 
 writer himself. The traveller can frequently save time by 
 mailing his letters at the hotel office, where stamps ( timbres de 
 correo) are nearly always obtainable. Addresses should be 
 written simply and legibly; English abbreviations should be 
 eschewed, as they are oftentimes unintelligible to the post- 
 man ( cartero ). 1 Eliminate Esquire; also P. O. Box. Instead 
 of the latter, put Apartado . Always give the street ( calle ) 
 number where possible, or the name of the hotel at which 
 the traveller is stopping. Adentro is within ; upper floor is altos. 
 Letters sent from towns in the interior to the capital are 
 addressed to the recipient at Mexico, D. F. (. Distrito Fede- 
 ral). This also applies to suburban towms in this district, for 
 example: Mr. John Brown , Tacuhaya , D. F . It is important 
 to learn the State in which a town is located and to add it to 
 the address. (For a list of Mexican States ( estados ) and the 
 abbreviations generally employed, see p. cxxiv.) The usual 
 form of address with Mexicans is: Al Sr. D n Fulano de Tal, 
 Mexico , D. F. ; Seiior a Doha Dolores de Mengano, Cuernavaca , 
 Est. de Morelos; Srita. Concepcion de Garcia, Vera Cruz, 
 Ver. 
 
 The abbreviation for Sehor is Sr. ; for Don , D n ; for Seho - 
 rita, Srita. ; for Sehora, Sra. ; for State, Est. 
 
 Most Mexicans append to their signatures a Rubrica, which 
 is a sort of intricate flourish, like a Runic knot, an Oriental 
 sign-manual, or a batch of chilly angleworms. Some only 
 rubricate , and do not write their names. Widows ( viudas ) are 
 usually addressed as such; for instance: La Sra. Viuda de 
 Hernandez (Mr. Hernandez’ widow) . Mexicans often have long 
 names, and it is not unusual for them to leave off the last one 
 
 1 More than one and a half million pieces of mail-matter, insufficiently 
 or illegibly addressed, enter the dead letter department of the Mex. P. O. 
 each year. 
 
xlii 
 
 POST-OFFICES — TELEGRAPHS 
 
 and use only the initial, as: Juan Zutano de G. (meaning, per- 
 haps, Garcia , or something of the sort) . 
 
 Postal Rates ( tarifas postales ) are a bit higher than in the 
 U. S. A., and are subject to change. Ordinary sealed letters 
 within a town or its suburbs, 2 c. for 20 grammes {gramos) or 
 fraction ( fraccion ). To points ypthin the Republic, 10 c. To 
 Spain and countries on the American continent, 10 c. Other 
 countries of the Postal Union ( union postal) 20 c. 
 
 Ordinary Post-cards ( tarjetas postales ordinarias) 2 c. 
 within the Republic. To Spain and the Americas, 4 c. To 
 other Postal Union countries, 12 c. Cards with prepaid reply, 
 5, 10 and 20 c. Cards of a pornographic nature are not ac- 
 cepted for transportation. 
 
 Postal Money Orders ( giros postales) are cheap and safe: 
 they are issued to many points in the Repub. and to the U. S. A. 
 at the following rates: Up to $10, 20 c.; $20, 30 c.; $30, 40 c.; 
 $40, 50 c.; $50, 60 c.; and so on up to $100, $1. 
 
 Registered Letters {cartas certificadas) and parcels ( bultos ) 
 should be presented at the office at least two hours before the 
 departure of trains. Information covering this, and other 
 points, is usually to be found posted on the correo wall. Neither 
 stamps nor money should be sent in registered letters. One 
 is usually asked to state the contents of a package sent 
 registered. Registration {certificaeion) 20 c. in the Repub. or 
 abroad. 10 c. extra if a receipt signed by the recipient is 
 demanded. 
 
 Merchandise {mercancias) may be sent by parcel post 
 ( bultos postales) at rates about like those in vogue in other 
 countries. Different regulations apply to different countries, 
 and as minor changes are often made, the traveller is advised 
 to consult the postmaster or some business friend before mak- 
 ing up packages. The acceptable weight ranges from 1 to 5 
 kilogrammes (2 t 2 q to 11 pounds), the latter being the maxi- 
 mum. 
 
 There is a C. O. D. delivery system {gravamen con reembolso) 
 in vogue within the Republic. 
 
 Printed Matter {impresos) falls under 2d, 3d, 4th, and 
 mixed matter, in its classification, with different rates applying 
 to different articles. Consult the Postal Regulations for details. 
 
 Aerial Service {servicio aereo) rates are considerably higher 
 than those of the ordinary means of communication. 
 
 Useful words and phrases: 
 
 Letter, carta (car-tah) 
 
 Letter-box, buzon (boo-zohn) 
 
 Registered letter, carta c-ertificada 
 
 (cahr-tah sere-tee-fee-cah-dah) 
 
TELEGRAPHS xliii 
 
 Special delivery, entrega especial (en-tray-gah es-peh-see-ahl) 
 Mailing, envio por correo (en-ve-oh pohr cohr-ray-oh) 
 
 Postpaid, porte pagado (pohr-teh pah-gah-doh) 
 
 Postmaster, administrador de correos 
 
 (ahd-me-nees-trah-door day cohr-ray-ohs) 
 
 Postmark, estampilla de correo 
 
 (es-tahm-pee-yah day cohr-ray-oh) 
 
 General delivery, entrega general (en-tray-gah heh-nay-rahl) 
 Branch P. O. sucursal de correo 
 (soo-coor-sahl day cohr-ray-oh) 
 
 Are there any letters (mail) for me? Mr. . . . Mrs. . . . 
 Miss. . . . ? 
 
 $hay algunas cartas para ml f senor , senora, senorita? (eye 
 
 ahl-goo-nahs cahr-tahs pah-rah me — sane-your, sane-yoh-rah, 
 sane-yo-ree-tah) 
 
 When does the mail close? & cudndo se sierra el correo f 
 
 kwahn-doh say see-eh-rah el cohr-ray-o 
 How many stamps does this require? 
 
 ficuantas estampillas necesita esta? 
 
 (kwahn-tahs es-tam-pee-yahs nay-say- see-tah es-tah) 
 Mail, correspondencia (cor-res-pohn-den-sea-ah) 
 
 P. O. box, avartado (ah-pahr-tah-doh) 
 
 To register a letter, certificar una carta 
 
 (sere-tee-fee-cahr oo-nah cahr-tah) 
 
 To seal, sellar; (seh-yahr); sealed, sellado (seh-yah-doh) 
 Parcel post, paquete postal (pah-queh-teh pohs-tahl) 
 
 Postage, franqueo ; stamp, estampilla 
 
 (frahn-kay-oh) (es-tahm-pee-yah) 
 
 Postman, cartero; postcard, tarjeta postal 
 
 (cahr-teh-ro) (tahr-heh-tah pohs-tahl) 
 
 Postal order, giro postal (he-ro pohs-tahl) 
 
 Printed matter, impresos ; samples, muestras 
 
 (eem-preh-sohs) (moo-es-trahs) 
 
 ist class, prim, era clase ; 2 d, segundo 
 
 (pre-meh-rah clah-say) (say-goon-dah) 
 
 I want some stamps, please quiero algunas estampillas , favor 
 (key-eh-ro ahl-goo-nahs es-tam-pee-yahs, fah-vohr) 
 
 The Telegraph Lines ( h'neas telegrdficas) , of which there 
 are upward of 45,000 miles, are under Government control: 
 they connect the capital with all the important towns and 
 provide a cheap and efficient service. Messages ( mensajes ) 
 within the Republic are charged (according to distance) 
 for each ten words, with a small extra charge for each addi- 
 tional word. The railway telegraphs do not, as a rule, com- 
 pete with the Telegrafos Federates , but they will accept mes- 
 sages under certain circumstances — in cases, for instance, 
 where there is no Government office near. Messages can be 
 written in French, Spanish, or English; an economy can usu- 
 
xliv 
 
 RADIO SERVICE — TELEPHONES 
 
 ally be effected (over the English) by writing messages in 
 Spanish. Addresses should be written legibly and abbrevia- 
 tions avoided. The operators are, as a rule, intelligent and 
 trustworthy. Urgent telegrams \telegramas urgentes), taking 
 precedence over all others, may be sent for double the ordinary 
 rate. As a rule, night messages ( mensajes de noche) are not 
 accepted at the offices until after 10 p. m. A centavo is charged 
 for a signed receipt (which should always be demanded), for 
 money paid. This revenue stamp is affixed to the telegram. 
 
 Many of the minor telegraph-offices close at 7 p. m. ; others 
 remain open till midnight. 
 
 Radio Service ( servido radio-telegrafico) . Certain of the 
 larger offices are equipped with radio outfits and operate a 
 radio service; messages cost more than those sent over the 
 wires. — Wireless Telegraphy is telegrafia sin hilos. — A wire- 
 less message is un telegrama inalambrica or radiograma. — 
 Wireless station, estadon inalambrica . 
 
 Cablegrams ( cablegramas ) via the Cable Submarine (or over 
 the Government land wires to the frontier, thence through 
 the U. S. A.) usually go byway of Galveston (to the U. S.) 
 by the submarine lines of the Compahia Telegrajica Mexicana. 
 The cable rate to points in the U. S. and Canada is usually 
 about S3. 50 for ten words or less, with an extra charge of 24 c. 
 for each additional word : no charge for address or signature. 
 The average charge per word (signature and address charged 
 for) to Europe is SI .00 ; to Cuba, 70 c.; to Central and S . Amer- 
 ica, from 30 c. (to Guatemala) to S2.50 (to points in Brazil). 
 
 Telephones ( telefonos ) are now to be found in many parts of 
 Mexico and the system is being rapidly extended. The best 
 service is operated in Mexico City, by the Empresa de Tele- 
 fonos Ericsson , S. A. (under whose immediate control are the 
 Puebla, Toluca, Pachuca, and other systems). The capital is 
 now connected telephonically ( telefonicamente ) with these and 
 other near-by places and the radius widens almost daily. 
 
 Public Telephones are popular and are widely used. In 
 many cases a box type of 'phone is used, upon which the 
 receiver (el microtelefono ) rests in a horizontal position. When 
 this is lifted, central (central) answers and the aspirant asks 
 for a certain number — favor de comunicarme con el numero . 
 ... If the number desired happens to be 8-15, one says ocho- 
 quince. If it is 1-14-04, one says uno-catorce-cero-cuairo ; if it 
 be 2-77 one says dos-siete-siete , or if it be 17-12 one can say 
 diez y siete uno-dos, etc. When the connection is made central 
 says, listo (ready). If the operator (la telefonista) says estd 
 ocupado, it means the line is busy; and one hangs up the re- 
 ceiver. — Bueno (bway-noh) is generally employed to mean 
 hello? 
 
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 
 
 xlv 
 
 Useful words and phrases: 
 
 i, uno (oo-no); 2, dos (dose); 3, tres (trace); 4, cuatro (quah- 
 tro); 5, cinco (sing-co); 6, seis (sace); 7, siete (se-eh-teh); 8, 
 ocho (oh-cho); 9, nueve (noo-eh-veh) ; 10, diez (de-es); n, once 
 (ohn-say); 12, doce (doh-say); 13, trace (tray-seh); 14, catorce 
 (cah-tohr-say) ; 15, quince (keen-say); 16, diez y seis (de-es e 
 sace); 17, diez y siete (de-es e se-eh-teh); 18, diez y ocho (de-es 
 e o-cho); 19, diez y nueve (de-es e noo-eh-veh); 20, veinte 
 (vane-tee); 21, veinte y uno (vane-teh e oo-no); 30, treinta 
 (train-tah); 31, treinta y uno; 40, quarenta (quah-ren-tah) ; 
 50, cincuenta (sin-quen-tah) ; 60, sesenta (say-sen-tah) ; 70, 
 setenta (say-ten-tah) ; 80, ochenta (o-chen-tah) ; 90, noventa 
 (no-ven-tah) ; 100, cien (se-en); 101, ciento y uno (se-en-toh e 
 oo-no) 200, doscientos (dose-se-en-tohs) ; 300, trescientos 
 
 (trace-se-en-tohs) ; 400, cuatrocientos (quah-tro-se-en-tohs) ; 
 500, quinientos (key-ne-en-tohs) ; 1000, mil (meal); 2000, dos 
 mil. 
 
 I want to telephone to Mrs. . . . quiero telefonear a la Sehora . . . 
 
 (key-eh-ro teh-lay-fo-nay-ar ah lah sane-yoh-rah) 
 
 Is this central? ^ hablo con la oficina central f 
 
 (ah-blo-cohn lah oh-fee-sea-nah cen-trahl) 
 
 I would like to speak to Mr. . . . quisiera hablar con el sehor. . . 
 
 (key-sea-eh-rah ah-blahr cone el sane-your . . .) 
 
 Please hold the wire a moment, Miss . . . 
 
 espere un momento en el aparato y senorita . . . (es-peh-ray oon 
 
 mo-men-toh en el ah-pah-rah-toh sane-yo-ree-tah) 
 
 Kindly speak English, sirvase hablar en ingles 
 (syr-vah-say ah-blahr en ing-lace) 
 
 Wait a moment, please, aguarde un minuto 
 
 (ah-wahr-day oon me-noo-toh) 
 
 Please call ... to the ’phone favor de llamar . . . al telefono 
 (fah-vohr day yah-mahr . . . ahl teh-leh-fo-no) 
 Distance ( distancia ) in Mexico is nearly always computed 
 in kilometros , though leagues ( leguas ) sometimes are employed. 
 When a place is quite far off it is usually referred to as muy 
 retirado (very remote). Reasonably far is lejos; not very far, 
 lejitos. 
 
 Mexican and American Weights and Measures. The 
 
 Weights and Measures ( pesas y medidas) of the Metric Sys- 
 tem ( sistema metrica) were introduced in 1856 , and by a law 
 of 1895 were declared the only legal weights and measures in 
 the Republic. Albeit this law became compulsory in 1896 , 
 many of the Indians and other ignorant persons use the old 
 Spanish measures. In the draper’s shops goods are sold both 
 by the Spanish vara — yard — (see below) , and by the metro , 
 (metre), which is subdivided into centimetros (centimetres) 
 and milimetros (millimetres) — and T ^oo °f a metre 
 respectively. 
 
xlvi 
 
 WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 
 
 TABLE OF KILOMETRES AND MILES 
 ( Tabla de kilometres y millas). 
 
 1 Kilometre 0.62 mile. 
 
 20 kilometres 12.43 miles. 
 
 2 
 
 1.24 “ 
 
 30 
 
 “ 
 
 18.64 
 
 44 
 
 3 
 
 1.86 “ 
 
 40 
 
 44 
 
 24.86 
 
 44 
 
 4 
 
 2.49 “ 
 
 50 
 
 44 
 
 31.07 
 
 44 
 
 5 
 
 3.11 “ 
 
 60 
 
 44 
 
 37.28 
 
 44 
 
 6 
 
 3.73 “ 
 
 70 
 
 44 
 
 43.50 
 
 44 
 
 7 
 
 4.35 “ 
 
 80 
 
 44 
 
 49.71 
 
 44 
 
 8 
 
 4.97 “ 
 
 90 
 
 44 
 
 55.92 
 
 
 9 
 
 5.59 “ 
 
 100 
 
 44 
 
 62.14 
 
 
 10 
 
 6.21 “ 
 
 
 
 
 
 LAND OR 
 
 AGRARIAN MEASURES ( Medida Agrarid). 
 
 Spanish name. 
 
 Nearest English 
 equivalent. 
 
 Length 
 
 (varas). 
 
 Breadth 
 
 (varas). 
 
 Hectares. 
 
 Acres. 
 
 Hacienda 
 
 Sitio de ganado mayor. 
 Sitio de ganado menor. 
 Fundo legal para pue- 
 blo 
 
 Labor 
 
 Caballeria de tierra. . . 
 Fanega sembradura de 
 
 maiz 
 
 Solar para casa, moii- 
 no, o venta 
 
 Plantation 
 
 Cow ranch 
 
 Sheep ranch 
 
 Legal town site 
 
 Field 
 
 Knighthold of land 
 Sowing ground for 
 1 fanega of corn... 
 Site for house, mill, 
 or inn 
 
 25,<K)0 
 
 5.000 
 3,333i 
 
 1,200 
 
 1.000 
 
 1,104 
 
 276 
 
 50 
 
 5,000 
 
 5.000 
 3,3331 
 
 1,200 
 
 1.000 
 
 552 
 
 184 
 
 50 
 
 8,778.0500000 
 
 1,755.6100000 
 
 780.2711111 
 
 21.697.000 
 
 4,339.400 
 
 1,928.133 
 
 101.1231360 
 
 70.2244000 
 
 42.7953111 
 
 244.140 
 
 175.532 
 
 105.751 
 
 3.5662759 
 
 8.813 
 
 .1755610 
 
 .434 
 
 CUBIC MEASURE (cubico). 
 
 cubic meter cubic yard 
 
 1 cubic vara 0.588480 0.769734 
 
 1 “ pie (foot) 0.021795 0.769484 
 
 1 “ palmo (palm) 0.009195 0.324634 
 
 DRY MEASURE ( para aridos ). 
 
 liters (litros) 
 
 1 carga 
 1 fanega 
 
 1 almud 
 
 1 cuartillo 
 
 2 fanegas 
 12 almudes 
 
 4 cuartillos 
 
 181.629775 
 
 90.814888 
 
 7.567907 
 
 1.891977 
 
 Bushels 
 5.154357 
 2=577178 
 Pecks 
 0.859109 
 Dry quarts 
 1.718122 
 
 OIL MEASURE ( aceite ). 
 
 Litei U. S. liquid quart 
 
 1 cuartillo 0.506162 0.534870 
 
 WINE MEASURE (vino). 
 
 Liter U. S. liq. qt. 
 
 1 cuartillo 0.456264 0.482140 
 
 PRECIOUS METAL WEIGHTS (metales preciosos ). 
 
 Kilogrammes Ounces avoir. 
 
 1 marco 
 
 8 onzas (ounces) 
 
 0.230123 
 
 8.1184 
 
 1 onza 
 
 8 ochavas (eighths) 
 
 0.028765 
 
 1.0148 
 
 1 ochava 
 
 6 tomines (£ of a drachm) 
 
 0.003596 
 
 0.12685 
 
 Grains 
 
 1 tomin 
 1 grano 
 
 12 granos (grains) 
 
 0.000599 
 
 0.0000499 
 
 9.25920 
 
 0.77160 
 
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 
 
 xlvii 
 
 LINEAR MEASURE ( medida de longitud). 
 
 1 legua (league) 
 
 5000 varas 
 
 4.19 kilom. 
 
 2.604375 m.i 
 
 1 vara 
 
 
 3 pies 
 
 0.83800 meter 2.749578 ft. 
 
 1 pie 
 
 
 12 pul gad as 
 
 0.27933 “ 
 
 0.916526 ft. 
 
 1 pulgada (inch) 
 
 12 lineas (lines) 0.02328 “ 
 
 0.916526 in. 
 
 1 linea 
 
 
 
 0.00194 
 
 0.076377 in. 
 
 SUPERFICIAL 
 
 OR SQUARE 
 
 MEASURE (jnedidas cuadradas). 
 
 1 square league 
 
 1.755.61 hectares 
 
 4.339.4 acres 
 
 1 “ 
 
 vara 
 
 0.702244 sq. meter 
 
 7.559000 sq. ft. 
 
 1 “ 
 
 pie 
 
 0.078027 ‘ 
 
 4 44 
 
 0.839888 “ “ 
 
 1 “ 
 
 palmo 
 
 0.043890 ‘ 
 
 l “ 
 
 68.03094 “ in. 
 
 1 “ 
 
 pulgada 
 
 0.000542 4 
 
 
 0.87012 “ in. 
 
 
 COMMERCIAL WEIGHTS ( pesas comerciales ). 
 
 
 
 Kilogrammes 
 
 U. S. lbs. avoir. 
 
 1 quintal 
 
 4 arrobas 
 
 46.024634 
 
 101.444 
 
 1 arroba 
 
 25 libras (lbs.) 
 
 11.506159 
 
 25.361 
 
 1 libra 
 
 16 ounces 
 
 0.460246 
 
 1.01444 
 
 
 
 
 
 ounces avoir. 
 
 1 onza 
 
 1 6 adarmes 
 
 0.028765 
 
 1.0148 
 
 1 adarme 36 granos 
 
 0.001798 
 
 0.06343 
 
 
 
 
 
 grains avoir. 
 
 1 grano 
 
 
 
 0.0000499 
 
 0.77160 
 
 1 Carga (a weight used in freighting) equals 12 arrobas = 300 libras 
 = 138.073902 kilos=304.332 U. S. lbs. avoirdupois. 
 
 A dozen is una docena ; a gross, una gruesa. Ton =tonelada. The 
 kilogramo is subdivided into 1000 gramos= 0.0022046 lbs. 
 
 The Standard (French) metre or unit of measurement is defined as 
 the ten millionth part of the terrestrial meridian, or the distance from 
 the equator to the Pole, passing through Paris. 
 
 For practical purposes 1 kilom. equals f of 1 Eng. mile. 8 kilom., 5 
 miles. To convert kilom. into miles, divide by 8 and multiply by 5. To 
 convert miles into kilom., multiply by 8 and divide by 5. 
 
 An approximate rule for converting meters or parts into yards is to 
 add one eleventh part or .0909. An approximate method of converting 
 meters into inches is to multiply by 40. To convert inches into meters 
 divide by 40. 
 
 To convert kilogrammes into lbs., divide by 4536; to convert lbs. into 
 kilos, multiply by 22046. 
 
 The Centigrade, rather than the Fahrenheit thermometer ( termdmetro ) 
 is used in Mexico. 
 
 As the majority of Americans are familiar with Fahrenheit thermo- 
 meters, and as Centigrade instruments are commonly used in Mexico, the 
 traveller may like to remember the following tables for reducing — 
 
 Fahrenheit to Centigrade. If above zero. — Multiply difference be- 
 tween number of degrees and 32 by 5, and divide product by 9. 
 
 Thus, 212° - 32° X 5^ 9= 180° X 5-h 9 = 100°. 
 
 If below zero. — Add 32 to number of degrees, multiply sum by 5, and 
 divide product by 9. 
 
 Thus. 40° + 32°X5-7-9 = 72°X5-f-9 = — 40°. 
 
 Centigrade to Fahrenheit. If above freezing-point. — Multiply 
 number of degrees by 9, divide product by 5, and add 32 to quotient. 
 
 Thus, 100° X 9-^5 = 180°, and 180° + 32= 212°. 
 
 If below freezing-point. — Multiply number of degrees by 9, divide 
 product by 5, and take difference between 32 and quotient. 
 
 Thus, 10° X 9-^-5= 18°, and 18° c/> 32=14°. 
 
 1 A marine league ’s 6.662§ varas. 
 
xlviii 
 
 HOTELS 
 
 Time {el tiempo). Official Mexican Time corresponds (since 
 Jan. 1, 1922) to Mountain Time ft 05 W. of Greenwich) in the 
 U. S. A., so that it is one hour slower than the time used at the 
 frontier stations between Brownsville and El Paso, Texas 
 (which uses Mt. Time). Exceptions to this are the Mexican 
 States of Tabasco, Chiapas, and the Peninsula of Yucatan, 
 which employ Central (or 90th Meridian) Time. 
 
 A recent government decree legalized the use of the 24-hour 
 clock, but it met with such disfavor that there has been a 
 general reversion to the old system of dividing the day into 
 two parts of twelve hours each. In certain quarters the double 
 symbols are employed, and in others the custom of saying 
 13 hours {trece horas ) instead of 1 p. m. Railways and other 
 important enterprises use the a. m. and p. m. classification. 
 
 V. Hotels. Eoarding- Houses. Cafes. Baths. 
 
 Cargadores. 
 
 Hotels. As a general rule, the hotels of Mexico cannot be 
 compared, in point of luxury and convenience, to the splendid 
 and costly establishments in certain American cities, but the 
 first-class places — hoteles de primera close — of the most fre- 
 quented resorts, are quite comfortable, though sometimes 
 primitive enough in their construction and management: 
 what the others lack in modern appointments they usually 
 make up in picturesqueness. Certain hostelries in the countiy 
 towns are converted seigniorial houses, or great, rambling 
 palacios, with one or more flower-decked patios with long, cool, 
 cloister-like halls opening on to them. A new type of hotel 
 (usually under American management) is springing up in the 
 most frequented places, with modern conveniences as special 
 features. The best are apt to be expensive. While the critical 
 traveller may note many shortcomings, particularly in the 
 country inns, in the matter of modern electrical devices and 
 conveniences, he should bear in mind that the architecture is 
 suited to the climate, and that the natural indolence of the 
 native does not express itself in swift elevators and in those 
 expensive — and oftentimes useless — luxuries which are a 
 part of the strenuous American life. It may justly be said that 
 there is a revival of interest in the making of new and better 
 hotels for the proper housing of the many tourists who annu- 
 ally visit the Republic. 
 
 Mexico City, Guadalajara, Tampico, Cuernavaca, and a 
 few other places in Mexico now possess good and comfortable 
 hotels with modern conveniences and the food and service 
 required by Americans accustomed to life in American hotels. 
 The best hotels now have baths, elevators, electric lights and 
 many comforts not characteristic of the Mexico hotels of a 
 decade ago. The writer has carefully inspected the hotels in 
 the different cities frequented by tourists, and those worthy 
 
HOTELS 
 
 xlix 
 
 of commendation will be found mentioned in their proper 
 places in the guidebook. 
 
 The shortcomings of certain Mexican hotels do not, as a 
 rule, spring from indifference or lack of a desire to please when 
 the wishes of the guests are known. In most cases the houses 
 are under the direct supervision of the proprietors, who do 
 everything they know how to make their foreign guests com- 
 fortable. The fact that in many country inns boliches (ten-pin 
 alleys) are more in evidence than toilet con veniences, and that 
 many of the hotel managers have not yet awakened to the 
 propriety of providing separate toilet rooms for men and 
 women, is due more to ignorance than intentional neglect. 
 
 It is greatly to the credit of the Mexican Boniface that he 
 seldom resorts to the low trickery practised on unsuspecting 
 travellers abroad by the managers of so-called first-class Euro- 
 pean hotels. Errors in accounts are not always in favor of the 
 house; and the manager, not the servants, runs the establish- 
 ment. Bills are payable at the cashier’s desk ( al cajero), and 
 are not presented by covetous menials who expect ( they only 
 know why) a large percentage of the amount due. Nor are 
 these servants allowed to hunt the guests from their apart- 
 ments to the street or railway station, on their departure, 
 and thus engender the discomfited feeling so well under- 
 stood by travellers of modest means and with principles of 
 justice (compare Tips, p. lix). A Mexican hosteler o w T ould 
 scorn to demand payment for a bedroom candle; nor would 
 he, as a rule, knowingly attempt to defraud by overcharging 
 on his bill. 
 
 The traveller may sometimes note a dearth of clean tow T els 
 in certain native inns, but they are usually promptly provided 
 W'hen asked for. The soap is apt to be cheap and lurid, and 
 should be avoided. The traveller should provide himself with 
 toilet paper. Although some of the inns in the remote towns 
 are poor in appearance, the guest is rarely starved. Mexico is 
 a land where chickens, rice, honey, good beans ( frijoles ), fine 
 fruits, palatable sweets, and fairly good milk, bread, and coffee 
 are most always available. Mexican cooking is free of garlic 
 and is superior to the Spanish. 
 
 Most of the native hostelries are still without baths, but 
 these are rapidly becoming a feature of the foreign hotels. 
 
 The best hotels are supposed to furnish mosquito-nets ( mos - 
 quiteras , or pabellones) and they should always be asked for. 
 Nor should the aromatic pastilles ( pastillas ) for burning in 
 the room be accepted in their stead, for besides being inade- 
 quate, all doors and windows must be closed, to keep the fumes 
 in, and this is a procedure highly objectionable to a lover of 
 fresh air. Far too often thin cotton-sheeting or cambric so 
 thick that no breeze lighter than a brisk gale will penetrate 
 it, is offered in lieu of the proper netting. 
 
1 
 
 HOTEL RATES AND ROOMS 
 
 It is not easy to give the names of inns in every small and 
 out-of-the-way place, as they chaise frequently; nevertheless 
 the traveller will find this Handbook to contain the most com- 
 plete list published to dat^, with their respective charges. In 
 those remote places where no inn is mentioned, it is sufficient 
 to say to the cargador (p. liifr), “ Vamos ol hotel” or “al me- 
 son ” and he will lead the way to whatever inn there maybe 
 in the place. 
 
 It is still the custom in many parts of Mexico for hotel run- 
 ners ( corredores ) to meet trains and steamships, and solicit 
 guests. Certain of the hotels run omnibuses ( omnibus ) or 
 motor busses ( camiones ) between the hotel and the station or 
 dock, and where there is considerable competition, no charge 
 is made for this service. This may sometimes represent a 
 saving of two or three pesos to the traveller, and is a con- 
 venience. As a rule the runners are responsible, and in the case 
 of a well-known hotel the traveller incurs no risk in deliver- 
 ing luggage to them. But he must be sure that the runner 
 represents the hotel he claims to. A common form of thievery 
 is for a man to disguise himself as a hotel runner, possess him- 
 self of valuable baggage and disappear with it. In case of 
 doubt, put hand luggage in a taxi and stay with it. Deliver 
 checks for trunks to the hotel manager. 
 
 Rates (la tarifa ). The European Plan, in which a fixed 
 charge is made for the room, thus leaving the guest to dine 
 where he may wish, is becoming popular in the larger cities of 
 Mexico, albeit in the country towms the American Plan, 
 wherein an inclusive charge is made for room and board, is 
 generally in vogue. Certain of the hotels offer a choice of 
 s} r stems. Many travellers prefer the E. PL, as it enables them 
 to breakfast and dine at the cafes and thus become familiar 
 with the national dishes and the cosmopolitan life. 
 
 Certain hotels vary rates according to the location, size, 
 etc., of the room, and it remains for the traveller to indicate 
 the price he wishes to pay. Rooms overlooking the plaza or a 
 street are usually the most expensive and the best. Those 
 opening on to the second (or back) patio (where the stable or 
 the kitchen may be located) are usually to be avoided. Some 
 hotels have two or more schedules for the year, a maximum 
 rate in the height of the season, and a lower one for the summer 
 months. 
 
 Travellers who contemplate remaining more than a week in 
 any hotel should alwaj^s ask if the price can be reduced — as 
 many of the hotels take this into consideration and will grant a 
 reduction for a long stay. Irritating extras rarely appear in a 
 bill in a Mexican hotel; prices are inclusive, and hotel men as 
 a rule do not try to fleece the stranger within their gates. An 
 idea of the average prices charged in hotels in Mexico can be 
 gained by referring to hotels under the different cities and 
 
HOTEL RATES AND ROOMS 
 
 li 
 
 towns described in the Guidebook. It should be remembered 
 that the best meals and the best service are not always con- 
 fined to the most pretentious places. 
 
 The Rooms of the average Mexican hotel are as bare as 
 a monk’s cell, and but few are provided with set-bowls or run- 
 ning water. On the other hand, they are apt to be two or three 
 times as large as American hotel rooms, with high-beamed 
 ceilings, massive, heat-excluding walls (sometimes 3-6 ft. 
 thick), and iron or wood balconies overlooking a flower-em- 
 bowered court or a picturesque street or plaza. The floors are 
 usually covered with stone, red-bricks, or large square tiles, 
 over which are thrown rugs or cool rush mats — petates. Brass 
 or iron beds are popular, and usually comfortable; albeit cer- 
 tain of those in use in the hotels on the Gulf Coast would poison 
 the sleep of the most phlegmatic. The natives and Spaniards 
 disdain well-stuffed mattresses ( colchones ) and soft pillows 
 ( almohadas ), and the pillows one sometimes has to use are 
 shaped like a railway tie, and are stuffed with lumpy cotton 
 of an extraordinary hardness. In such cases an air-pillow is 
 almost indispensable. In these same hotels thin coverlets, in 
 lieu of hair-mattresses, are spread over an assembly of spiral 
 wire springs, and the unfortunate traveller who must lie on 
 them gains the impression that he is courting sleep on a bed of 
 irregular cobblestones. Sleep comes reluctantly when one of 
 these anchorite beds falls to his lot. Hammocks are features 
 of the Yucatan hotels. 
 
 Few hotels are above three stories in height, and certain of 
 them possess two or more patios , one behind the other. The 
 first court is always the most attractive, and may be adorned 
 with a tinkling fountain, palms, and potted plants. (The dining- 
 tables are sometimes set in these courts.) The segundo patio is 
 usually devoted to the kitchen, to the drain-pipes, to servants, 
 and to odors which never recall the “ perfumes of Araby.” As 
 they are rarely distinguished for cleanliness, rooms overlook- 
 ing them should be avoided. The rooms facing any patio are 
 usually without windows, and if the sleeper wants fresh air, 
 the door must be left open. By demanding a cuarto con ven- 
 tilation one may sometimes get a room with an additional 
 outlet or a back window. It is always advisable to see the 
 room before agreeing to take it. In certain hotels a room 
 manifestly for one person is double-bedded, and double rates 
 are asked — unless the traveller protests. Americans are sup- 
 posed to be wealthy and to be indifferent to what prices they 
 pay. 
 
 Candles are still used in the remoter towns. It is well to 
 remember, for health’s sake, that one wax or tallow candle 
 destroys, during its combustion, as much oxygen per hour as 
 the respiration of one adult. 
 
 According to a trustworthy authority, the air respired by a human 
 being in one hour is about 15 cube feet, producing 500 grains of carbonic 
 
lii 
 
 MEALS 
 
 acid, corresponding to 137 grains of carbon, and during this time about 
 200 grains of water will be exhaled bjfcthe lungs. A man weighing 150 
 lbs. requires 930 cube feet of air per hour, in order that the air he breathes 
 may not contain more than 1 per 1,000 of carbonic acid; he ought, 
 therefore, to have 800 cube feet of well-ventilated space. 
 
 In some hotels, rooms engaged ahead are charged for from 
 the time they are bespoken, and ki others, rooms not given up 
 before 3-5 p. m. are considered as taken for the following day. 
 It is always advisable to make inquiry as to prices and cus- 
 toms soon after arrival. Houses in Mexico are, as a rule, chim- 
 neyless, and devoid of heating apparatus, but portable kero- 
 sene stoves ( estufas de 'petroled) are usually available in the 
 best hotels of the highlands. 
 
 Breakfast ( almuei'zo ) in the hotels under foreign manage- 
 ment usually consists of coffee (or chocolate), rolls, meat, and 
 eggs, and is served from 7 to 10. (Luncheon 12 to 2, and dinner 
 7 to 9.) In the native hotels generally a lighter breakfast {de- 
 say uno — the petit dejeuner of Europe) is served between 6 
 and 9. It consists of coffee (often in extract form, poured cold 
 from a bottle) with hot milk, or chocolate, and rolls. Meat 
 and eggs are apt to be charged for extra. 
 
 The Regular Breakfast — sometimes called comida — is 
 ready between 11 and 1.30, and comprises soup, eggs, rice, 
 fish, two or three kinds of meat with heavy gravy (or a biftec 
 with fried potatoes), sweets, fruit, and small coffee. Ice-cream 
 and other dishes sometimes appear on the menu in restaurants 
 where the meal is served at a fixed price, and as they are apt 
 to be charged for extra, it is a good plan to ask what the price 
 includes — tcuales plains estdn comprendidos en la comida cor- 
 rida f The Evening Meal ( cena ) , 6 to 9, is much the same as 
 that at noon. Meals are characterized by many meat courses, 
 and are usually served at small, round individual tables 
 ( mesas sueltas). In some Spanish hotels a cheap claret — 
 vino Unto — (to be avoided) is served free, with meals. 
 
 The Mexican custom is to eat heartily at midday and 
 lightly at night. The cafes generally advertise a table d'hote 
 meal at noon for an inclusive price (75 c. to 4 pesos , according 
 to quality, etc.). The same repast served after 3 p. m. cus- 
 tomarily is a la carte , and costs more (if all the dishes are or- 
 dered). 
 
 In certain hotels the dining-room ( comedor ) or cafe is under 
 a separate management, and food is paid for when eaten. 
 
 The bill-of-fare is menu , or lista de platos . Furnished rooms 
 are — cuartos a??iueblados. With board — con asistencia . 
 W. C. is — escusado , retrete , gabinete. For men — para hom- 
 bres; for women, para sehoras. Urinals are orinales, and are 
 usually to be found next to the kitchen. First floor — primer 
 piso; second — segundo; third — tercero . Waiter is mesero . 
 Plate — plato. Knife — cuchillo; fork — tenedor; spoon — 
 
BOARDING-HOUSES — CAFES lii a 
 
 cuchara; napkin — servilleta. Servants — servidumbre; to 
 serve — servir. For a list of useful phrases consult Terry's 
 Short Cut to Spanish , referred to on the first cover page of the 
 Guidebook. 
 
 Boarding-houses ( Casas de Huespedes), usually are con- 
 ducted by women and sometimes are cheaper than hotels; 
 but they generally lack the comfort, service, and security 
 afforded by the hotels. Those under native management are 
 not always to the taste of foreigners, albeit living in a Mexican 
 family affords an excellent opportunity for learning Spanish 
 and observing national manners and customs. 
 
 Furnished Rooms usually cost from $30 to $100 a month. 
 They do not always prove as comfortable as the hotel. One’s 
 consul, banker, or friend will usually be able to say which 
 house in a place enjoys the best reputation. 
 
 Mesones, or Taverns, — a species of caravansary where 
 lodging is furnished man and beast, — are not for the foreigner 
 unless he finds himself in a town without an hotel. 
 
 Fondas (native restaurants) and Jigones (chop-houses), as 
 well as cafes , rarely have rooms to rent. The traveller will 
 sometimes be able to get a more satisfactory meal in a Chinese 
 ( chino ) restaurant (of which there are many in the Repub.) 
 than in a cheap native fonda. 
 
 Cafes are somewhat unlike those of Europe in that they are 
 usually cafes and restaurants combined, where regular meals 
 are served. The cuisine ( cocina ) of the oldest establishments 
 of the capital is generally French or Spanish: there are now 
 several places where American taste is catered to. In the 
 smaller towns the hotel restaurant is usually the best. Meals 
 vary in price with the style and reputation of the house. Prices 
 usually range from SI to S2.50; the waiter expects a small 
 fee. Table wine is generally charged for. English is spoken 
 in the best-known cafes of the capital. Certain of the cafes 
 and hotels display the menu-card in the window or at the 
 entrance, and repeat it in the daily newspapers. The traveller 
 should count his change, and be on his guard against counter- 
 feit money. 
 
 Baths. Not all hotels possess Baths ( banos ), as the native 
 custom is to bathe in the casa de bah os, with which almost 
 every town is supplied. As these establishments frequently 
 change management, it is difficult to correctly direct the travel- 
 ler in all cases. An accurate list appears under the proper 
 headings in the Handbook, but the traveller is nevertheless 
 counselled always to ask the hotel manager which is the best 
 and cleanest. He is strongly advised to avoid all but the 
 places of the highest class. Even then it is sometimes advis- 
 able to take one’s own towels (always soap) along. Many 
 
CARGADPRES 
 
 m 
 
 casas de banos are operated by a certain type of Spaniard 
 whose ideas of hygiene are a negligible quantity. In most 
 houses the only apparent difference between first and second 
 class baths is that noticeable in the size and quality of the tub 
 and the decoration of the room. It should be borne in mind, 
 however, that the second-class rooms are frequented by per- 
 sons whose ideas of cleanliness are at variance with those of 
 the average traveller, and to frequent any but the best may 
 prove not only injudicious but dangerous. The bath-houses 
 are usually crowded on Sunday mornings and dias de fiesta , 
 and are apt to be closed Sunday afternoons. Sweat baths 
 should not be taken at high altitudes, until the sun is well 
 above the horizon. 
 
 Cargadores (porters or carriers) are found in all towns (ex- 
 cepting those of Yucatan), and they generally congregate at 
 railway stations and on street corners. They are called by 
 clapping the hands, as if applauding. Each man is licensed, 
 and wears (or should wear) a metal disc with his number 
 swung on a chain around his neck or attached to his clothing. 
 The class is a trustworthy one, as a rule, but in the cities, 
 thieves sometimes mix with them, obtain spurious badges, 
 and make off with luggage entrusted to them. When a travel- 
 ler employs a cargador, he should always make a mental note 
 of his number, so he can be traced if he disappears. Each 
 man is vouched for to the authorities by some person of note, 
 who remains, in a way, responsible for his conduct. The safest 
 rule is to accompany the cargador who carries one’s luggage, 
 and make him walk ahead. If one is undecided about the 
 hotel he wishes to stop at, it is advisable to give one’s hand- 
 luggage to a cargador , take him along as guide and carrier, and 
 visit the different hotels until a suitable one is found. Medium 
 size trunks are transported on the man’s back, supported by 
 a strap which rests against the forehead. Heavy packages 
 ( bultos grandes) are carried on a species of litter called a pari - 
 huela , with shafts or handles at each end. 
 
 Express Companies ( compahias de express) are succeeding 
 the cargadores as luggage carriers in the larger cities. Taxis 
 can also usually be found about a rly. station, and the traveller 
 can pile his hand luggage into one and leisurely seek a hotel 
 to suit his taste and purse. This procedure never offends the 
 common sense Mexican, whose politeness is as proverbial as 
 the thrift of certain classes. The wealthiest Mexicans often 
 seek modest lodgings in this manner, where the charges suit 
 their ideas and the cooking their palates. 
 
 Travellers are cautioned against leaving unguarded luggage 
 or any personal belongings in taxis; as drivers often take 
 advantage of such occasions to make off with them. 
 
 Where cargadores are employed, the price for service should 
 be agreed upon beforehand. They nearly always ask more than 
 
TOWNS — HOUSES — RENTS 
 
 liii 
 
 they deserve or expect to receive, and not unfrequently they 
 will grumble if the agreed-upon price only is paid them. 
 Usually they expect, and ask for, an aguita (little drink), or 
 tip, over and above their tariff. A persistent man generally 
 can be gotten rid of by the phrase Dios le pagard (God will pay 
 you), or a threat to call the police. 
 
 In cities where foreigners congregate, like Mexico City, Vera 
 Cruz, Tampico, and similar places, cargadores will, as a general 
 rule, prove more expensive, and more vexing, than taxi chofers. 
 The latter usually will permit the traveller to carry any rea- 
 sonable number of pieces of hand baggage (and even a steamer 
 trunk) in his car, at little or no extra cost, with the advantage 
 to the traveller of being able to keep his belongings in sight. 
 
 A loss of luggage, etc., through a cargador should be reported 
 immediately to the police, and the man's number recorded. 
 
 VI. Towns. Houses. Rents. Landlords. Stamp Tax. 
 
 Servants. Gratuities. 
 
 Towns. Most of the Mexican towns are arranged in the 
 form of a square with the streets running at right angles across 
 it. Tramways, sewers, telephones, and similar conveniences 
 are to be found in many of the larger places, as well as in some 
 of the smaller ones. In the remote towns, open drains still 
 do duty as sewers, and candles light the traveller to bed. In 
 some places cobbles are being replaced by asphalt for paving, 
 and mule cars are making way for electric traction. 
 
 Foreign influence is gradually altering the physical aspect 
 of those towns and cities along the busy lanes of travel, and 
 while this influence has the virtue of improving them hygien- 
 ically, and in ways that make them more comfortable to the 
 Anglo-Saxon visitor or dweller, it not unfrequently destroys 
 their picturesqueness and robs them of their Mozarabic charm. 
 
 In many of the towns the delightful air of tranquilly and 
 enduring permanency is being replaced by a suggestion of 
 commercial prosperity and of an alertness out of keeping 
 with their Colonial charm; and, in some instances, their luxu- 
 riant neglect. 
 
 In some of the more prosperous places the lower, or street 
 floors of erstwhile dignified seigniorial mansions have been 
 converted into typical American stores with plate-glass win- 
 dows filled with mechanical expressions of northern ingenuity, 
 and these meretricious aggregations disturb the lover of fine 
 old architecture for which Mexico has so long been famous. 
 
 Plazas, or public squares, adorned with a kiosk ( kiosko ), or 
 music-stand (military music on certain days and evenings), 
 with a fountain and parterres of flowers, and fine trees, are 
 features of all Mexican towns. The Main Plaza — usually 
 called Plaza Mayor, P. de la C onstitucidn P. de Armas , P. de la 
 Libertad, or P. Principal — generally occupies the geograph- 
 
liv 
 
 HOUQPS 
 
 ical centre and is the focus of the town life. Where there is 
 more than one plaza or plazuela (little square) , the others are 
 usually named for military heroes. Most towns possess alame - 
 das — fine park-like promenades and play-grounds (comp, 
 p. 327). 
 
 The Palacio Municipal (and in capital cities the Palacio 
 Federal or del Estado), the Cathedral, or the Parochial Church, 
 the Post-Office ( correo ), and Telegraph-Office ( oficina del tele - 
 grafo) usually flank the Plaza Principal or are found near by. 
 Many plazas take the form of gardens (and are called jardines ) , 
 and they then make delightful breathing-spots. During the 
 early Spanish occupation the town plazas were mere stone- 
 flagged squares, sun-baked and unattractive. They were often 
 defaced by awx>oden gibbet and a frame- work, for the display 
 of criminal’s heads. The Empress Carlotta instituted the plan 
 of adorning the squares with trees and flowers. Not a few 
 Mexican plazas are embellished by a stone shaft surmounted 
 by an eagle or a bronze figure of the patriot priest Miguel 
 Hidalgo y Costilla , the fugelman of Mexican Independence. 
 Many towns also possess a bust or figure of Benito Juarez , the 
 famous president and promulgator of the Reform Laws. 
 Monuments to other Revolutionary heroes, to Liberty, and to 
 Aztec celebrities are becoming features of many Mex. cities. 
 
 Nearly all the Mexican cities now have colonias (colonies) in 
 the suburbs; where Americans and other nationalities dwell. 
 Certain of the towns near the frontier have a large American 
 population, and the architecture shows the impress of Ameri- 
 can ideas. The traveller should not make the mistake of judg- 
 ing southern Mexico by these bi-lingual, hybrid places. 
 
 Ambulating Indian pedlars ( vendedores ) are constant fea- 
 tures of Mexican streets. They usually supply the towns- 
 people with vegetables ( legumbres ), charcoal ( carbon de 
 lei) a), native pottery, ladders, potted plants, — which usu- 
 ally die in a day or two, — native-made brooms and whatnot. 
 Prices are very flexible, and bargaining is always necessary. 
 Some of the street-cries are weirdly impressive and they haunt 
 the memory. That of the tamale woman ( tamalera ) is unusu- 
 ally plaintive. It begins about dusk, and as it echoes down 
 the streets, it stirs the blood of the imaginative; recalling 
 stories of the Aztec war-cry, which, weird and menacing, rang 
 in the ears of the harassed Spaniards as they retreated along 
 the deadly Tlacopan causeway on the memorable noche triste. 
 (Comp. p. clxxxiii.) 
 
 The Houses of the better class are built after the Spanish- 
 Moorish type, one to three stories, with iron-barred windows 
 and balconies, and constructed of a porous stone ( tepetate ) 
 which hardens on exposure to the air and becomes almost a 
 solid piece. The immensely thick walls — often 4-8 ft. — and 
 
RENTS 
 
 lv 
 
 the tile floors exclude the heat and make the interiors cool in 
 the hottest weather. The walls serve the added purpose of 
 making the house almost earthquake proof — a desirable at- 
 tribute in an earthquake country. The outer walls are some- 
 times whitewashed and decorated in blues, pinks, and brightly 
 colored Pompeiian scenes. Foreign ideas have considerably 
 influenced the modern architecture of the capital, where the 
 houses are not unfrequently made of hewn stone, after the 
 American style. The homes of the lower class are generally of 
 adobe (sun-baked brick) , and they are as innocent of sanitary 
 appliances as their occupants are of hygiene. The average 
 well-to-do Mexican family usually dwells on the second floor 
 ( segundo piso) of the house and devotes the lower floor ( piso 
 bajo) to offices ( oficinas ), store-rooms {bodegas), and stables. 
 
 The open patios (courts) surrounded by tile-paved corridors 
 are often very attractive; particularly when adorned with 
 fountains, tropical plants, hammocks (in Yucatan), parrots, 
 and song-birds. Great double doors — usually of wood, 
 heavily studded with huge iron or bronze bosses or nails, after 
 the Moorish fashion, and large enough to admit a carriage — 
 with smaller doors cut into them, open into the zaguan (pass- 
 ageway) of the old-style houses, and this zaguan leads to, 
 and terminates at, the patio . These smaller doors are often 
 perforated by a small grill {reja) of iron, through which strang- 
 ers are scrutinized before being admitted. One is often chal- 
 lenged by the query, Who is it? quien es ?) before the door is 
 opened. Mexican houses should not be judged by their exte- 
 riors, as the central court is oftentimes much larger than the 
 facade would indicate, and much more attractive. The houses 
 are, as a rule, chimneyless and devoid of heating apparatus. 
 Too many are also innocent of bath-tubs and like conveniences. 
 
 Rents in the larger cities are high, with an upward tend- 
 ency. In Mexico City comfortable, detached houses of from 
 8 to 12 rooms rent from $2,000 to $7,000 a year. Apartments 
 or flats ( viviendas ) cost from $50 to $200 a month. The steady 
 influx of foreigners, who demand quasi-modern dwellings, does 
 not tend to reduce rents ( rentas ). 
 
 It is the custom for Landlords ( duefios ) to require tenants 
 to make necessary improvements at their own expense. Such 
 additions, whether practical or for adornment, and whether 
 removable or not, revert to the landlord when the tenant quits 
 the house. Few house-owners provide bath-tubs, electric-light 
 fittings, cook-stoves, and the like. American cook-stoves are 
 not used by Mexicans, who, as a rule, prefer charcoal braziers 
 ( brazeros ). Bread is usually baked and bought in the local 
 bakeries ( panaderias ). Where the house contains a bath-tub 
 (tina) , the landlord is apt to remove it. When a building is de- 
 livered to a tenant, every movable and removable article, such 
 
lvi 
 
 LEASES 
 
 as tiles in the wall, locks, bolts, window-glass, doors, and the 
 like are counted. The condition of the floors, walls, ceilings, 
 garden, etc., is commented upon, a duplicate list of the articles 
 is prepared, and a copy is kept by each. It is the duty of the 
 tenant to see that the house and fitments are in the same con- 
 dition when returned to the owner. Look well to the sanitary 
 arrangements and to the surroundings of a house before rent- 
 ing it for a long period. In high altitudes, houses with other 
 than a southern exposure are less desirable than those which 
 get the sun daily in the living-rooms. Houses with a northern 
 exposure will be found to be cold in the wdnter. Although cer- 
 tain houses in Mexico City possess one or more fireplaces 
 (usually exploited in the advertisements as an attraction), 
 these do not always “ draw,” and they should be tested before- 
 hand. One-story houses are called entresoladas. When these 
 have the living-rooms raised several feet above the ground, 
 with an unobstructed air-passage beneath, they are not as 
 objectionable, from the standpoint of health, as those which 
 rest flat on the ground. 
 
 Leases should never be signed without first consulting 
 some friend w T ho knows the landlords’ wiles, as such contratos 
 are binding in Mexico. If one is obliged to sub-let (demand 
 this privilege), it is done at one’s own risk, and he remains 
 responsible to the landlord until the expiration of the lease. A 
 fiador (endorser) or two months’ rent in advance (one month 
 as a deposit) is customary. The lease should be clearly worded, 
 and to avoid a fine ( multa ), an attorney ( ahogado ) should be 
 consulted, as the stamp-law is not familiar to many. Each 
 contract must bear a certain amount of revenue stamps, ac- 
 cording to the length and terms of the lease. If a contract for 
 sub-letting is made, it must bear stamps just as would an 
 original document. If one profits by the re-leasing, a Stamp 
 Tax (usually about 12% on the gain) must be paid to Govern- 
 ment. 1 Some landlords profit by the ignorance of tenants un- 
 acquainted with a certain phase of the Mexican insurance 
 law, which is perhaps unique. This provides that where a 
 house-owner does not insure his house and the tenant does in- 
 
 1 A considerable portion of the government revenues is derived from 
 a stamp tax applied to receipts, checks, contracts, and documents of 
 almost every kind. The law appears a bit complicated to the foreigner, 
 and circumspection is necessary to an exact compliance with the regu- 
 lations. Ignorance is held to be no excuse for its violation, and whosoever 
 fails to affix the correct amount of stamps to a document is fined. 
 Those who contemplate business relations with the Government or with 
 individuals are advised to acquire at least a superficial knowledge of the 
 act (see list of reference books on p. ccxxxix). Where any considerable 
 sum of money changes hands a properly stamped receipt should be given 
 or demanded, else legal recourse is not only futile but dangerous, as one 
 incurs the risk of being fined for non-compliance with the law, and 
 the case is thrown out of court, because the documents are not consid- 
 ered legal. 
 
LEASES 
 
 lvii 
 
 sure his own belongings, the insurance money, in the event 
 of a fire ( quemazon ) , reverts to the landlord until his claim is 
 satisfied. As the household goods are rarely as valuable as 
 the house, the landlord usually gets the entire sum. In certain 
 Mex. States the tenant is held responsible for the entire value 
 of the house. Some house-owners insure their own property 
 and will give (if demanded) a quittance on the insurance cov- 
 ering the household effects. Others refuse to do this, and 
 insist upon the tenant insuring the building in the owner’s 
 name, paying the premium, and handing over the policy — 
 pcliza. 
 
 Before the electric current is turned on (in Mexico City) , the 
 lessee of a house is obliged to sign a contract binding himself 
 to pay a minimum sum each month, whether or not he uses 
 that amount of current. In a house where 20-25 lights are 
 used this minimum averages perhaps $15 a month. It is less 
 or greater in proportion to the number of lights. This is 
 only the basis, and does not represent the total monthly ex- 
 pense for lights, which may cost (usually 3 cts. a hectowatt) 
 several times that sum if the lights are burned extravagantly. 
 
 The curious custom of bequeathing single rooms in a house 
 to different children of a family often gives rise to complica- 
 tions when leases are prepared. Rents are payable monthly 
 in advance, and a clause in the lease always gives the landlord 
 (propietario) the right to expel the tenant and collect dam- 
 ages and subsequent rent if this obligation is not lived up to. 
 
 Occupants of houses in Mexico City are obliged to have the 
 street pertaining to the house swept clean every morning. This 
 is the duty of the portero (gatekeeper) , and if he fails in it the 
 police will investigate. — It is customary to affix papers to 
 the windows or balconies to indicate that the house is for rent. 
 These usually read Se olquila , or Se renta. Where addresses 
 are not printed on these papers (newspapers are often used), 
 the portero or conserve will generally be found on the premises. 
 House-renting agents have been known to ask more for houses 
 than they are worth or they expect to get. — A prevailing 
 custom permits architects to chisel their names on the facades 
 of houses erected by them. This often gives rise to confusion, 
 as strangers are apt to conclude that the name is that of the 
 occupant. — The habit of demanding a traspaso (bonus) from 
 tenants after the rent is agreed upon, while practised in some 
 places (and usually upon unsophisticated persons) , is happily 
 falling into disuse. 
 
 Servants. If your native servant (of either sex) seems 
 honest and intelligent — be on your guard! If you send your 
 man-servant out to buy things, first know the price and give 
 him the exact amount. Don’t trust him with money for cur- 
 rent expenses; this will be the signal for his disappearance. 
 
lviii 
 
 SERVANTS 
 
 Never trust his word in matters of importance to yourself. 
 Know your wishes and make him subservient thereto. If you 
 treat him with consideration, he will impose upon you. Make 
 him know his place and keep it and you will gain his respect 
 and his best service. Never advance him money. If his mo- 
 ther, father, or great-aunt dies a day or two before his wages 
 are due, and he says he will have to go to his tierra to assist 
 at the obsequies, cast about for another servant, as yours 
 has found what he considers a better place. — Maid-servants 
 ( criadas ), nurses ( nanas ), and the like are called by their 
 given names or muchacha (girl) ; not senora or senorita. Men- 
 servants ( mozos — buen mozo also means a handsome fellow) 
 of all classes are called by their given names or muchachos 
 (boys); not Don or Senor. A waitress is a rnesera; chamber- 
 maid, recamarera; cook, cocinera; cook’s assistant, galopina. 
 
 The salaries paid to servants in Mexico City are as a rule higher than 
 elsewhere in the Repub. A cook gets from $20 to $60 a month from Mexi- 
 cans: foreigners often pay more, and get less service. A portero is paid 
 from $30 to $45; a chambermaid from $15 to $30; a waitress from $15 
 to $20. Salaries have an upward tendency. 
 
 The French concierge and the American janitor have their Mexican 
 counterpart (somewhat more pronounced) in the portero , a necessary 
 evil and a fixture in all Mexican houses. This functionary, with his 
 frowsy wife and numerous progeny, occupies usually a cubby-hole of 
 a room ( porteria ) in the zaguan near the main entrance; adjacent to the 
 fountain, at the back of the patio, or beneath the angle in the stairway. 
 In the matter of petty commercial “ squeezes” he is more like his French 
 confrere than he is like the American janitor, and his idle hours (usually 
 24 each day) are devoted to plans for annexing small coins which right- 
 fully belong to others. For slovenly ineptitude he is hard to beat. Time 
 is of no value to him, and financial projects which involve a problemat- 
 ical gain of one real (12 centavos) will occupy his disconnected thoughts 
 for days. If the transaction is in the nature of an imposition on some 
 benevolent and trusting foreigner, and carries a spice of rascality with 
 it, it is specially to his liking. His duties are to attend the outer door, 
 sweep the street and patio , pump ( bombear ) water into the tank on the 
 roof, collect a small gratuity from all who enter the house after 10 p. m., 
 keep his prehensile fingers well off his master’s belongings, and prevent 
 his acquisitive and ambitious countrymen from removing portable 
 property such as door-mats, ash-cans, push-buttons, flower-pots, and 
 the like. He is usually blissfully ignorant of the number of the house 
 next door or across the street, or even of the name of the street, albeit 
 he may have been born in it and have lived a long and useless life there. 
 His strong point is unspecialized knowledge: he speaks without fore- 
 thought . and if he can discover the kind of information or advice wanted 
 he supplies it cheerfully and to the limit of his vocabulary. The more 
 useless and untrue this is, the more he generally possesses. 
 
 Born without virtue and with a defective mentality, he is a bundle 
 of inconsistencies: for untrustworthiness he is sui generis. He makes a 
 show of working only when driven to it by sheer necessity. The only 
 way to retain his doubtful services is to pay him starvation wages. 
 If well paid, he soon quits you and does not sneak back till his entire 
 capital has jingled into the till of the nearest pulquerixi. Do you pay him 
 a living wage, thus enabling him to save enough with which to purchase 
 a big sombrero rigged out with silver braid, then indeed is he lost to you, 
 for the sombrero makes a Caballero of him, and no caballero would work, 
 unless in direst adversity. Do you take compassion on him and clothe 
 him in a cast-off suit of his master, he promptly suspects ulterior mo- 
 tives and decamps on the strength of them. Besides, clothes satisfy his 
 ambition and their possession removes the necessity for work. 
 
TIPS 
 
 lix 
 
 When he starts out on an errand which should take him a few hours 
 he is just as apt to be absent as many days, for his impulses are swayed 
 by every air current that blows through the street, and his sense of duty 
 is so atrophied as to be almost nil. The local city prison has a strange 
 attraction for him and he does not always succeed in keeping out of it. 
 The man who starts a hunt for a lost 'porter o generally applies there first 
 — and not infrequently is spared further loss of time. 
 
 An expeditious method of severing one’s connection with a portero 
 is to place him under obligation. The thought of having possibly to pay 
 this, at some future date, is too much, and at the first opportunity he 
 seeks pastures new. When he decides to leave, he informs you that his 
 aged grandmamma has been run down by a tram or an automobile and 
 left dead or with her legs cut off. The funeral or the medical examina- 
 tion takes place the following day, and he implores permission to be 
 present at the event. His far-twinkling spark of genius has bubbled to 
 the surface in this transaction, for at a stroke he seeks a position elsewhere 
 w f hile drawing pay from his present employer. The car or auto accident 
 happens always on, or one day before, pay-day, and if the new position 
 embraces unusual attractions, the portero never returns. Once installed 
 he sends for his belongings — which you have held pending his suc- 
 cess — or mayhap he comes in person, and while requesting a settle- 
 ment tearfully bemoans the cruel fate which snatches him from so gen- 
 erous a master and forces him to provide for a new family or to attend 
 a living but legless grandmother. If he does not ask for a small loan 
 of silver, he is an exception. This interview closes the incident, as far as 
 he is concerned, and when you perchance, and with unfeigned surprise, 
 see him sweeping the neighbor’s sidewalk the following day, he greets 
 you with unruffled serenity, and with a smile which betokens a con- 
 science at peace with the world. 
 
 Tips. The custom of giving gratuities ( gratificacidnes ) pre- 
 vails in Mexico, and is spreading, but the evil has yet to reach 
 the deplorable development characteristic of it in Europe and 
 America. While tips or fees ( propinas ) are never taken amiss, 
 the serving class ( servidumbre ) is, as a rule, less arrogant and 
 less exacting than that abroad, and tips are smaller. Class 
 distinction serves a bit to keep the Mexican hireling in his 
 place, even were the amo or 'patron (master or employer) dis- 
 posed to be browbeaten a la Americano or estilo Europeo. The 
 custom is more pronounced in Mexico City (the rendezvous 
 of foreigners) than in the interior towns. The evil is some- 
 what easier borne in Mexico, where servants are, generally 
 speaking, courteous, and where the recipient of a fee rarely 
 fails to express gratitude for it. The nuisance has yet to reach 
 the dignity of a guild, and the hotel proprietors have yet to 
 sink to the level of leaguing themselves with their menials 
 to fleece the confiding traveller, upon whom their prosperity 
 depends. Hotel servants in Mexico are never permitted to 
 ambush and harass the departing guest, and this generally 
 proves a novel and refreshing experience to the harried tourist 
 fresh from a trip to Europe. 
 
 Gratuities to house servants (where one is visiting), to ele- 
 vator-men, hotel clerks, railway employees, and such are rarely 
 expected. Restaurant waiters are, as a rule, satisfied with small 
 tips, whatever the amount of the bill. This also applies to bar- 
 bers, bath-attendants, and so on. Six or 12 cts. is the usual tip 
 to cabmen ( cocheros ) , who, like their ilk elsewhere, are rarely 
 
lx 
 
 POPULATION 
 
 grateful. Those of the capital still remember a hint on coer- 
 cion and covetousness handed them by the enlightened Gov- 
 ernor of the Federal District not long since, and any dispute 
 can usually be settled by the suggestion — a very effectual 
 dampener — that the matter be arbitrated at the nearest 
 comisaria. — Where one stops a week or more in an hotel, one 
 peso is enough for the table-boy; and an equal amount is 
 ample for the chambermaid. 
 
 It is the custom to close the zaguan doors of Mexican houses 
 at 10 p. m., and whosoever comes in later is expected to give 
 a gratificacioncita to the portero. Cargadores (comp. p. lii b) 
 usually demand more than the agreed-upon-price, and where 
 the traveller is unwilling to grant it the word anda — move 
 on, or vaya — get out, usually starts them. 
 
 VII. Population. Intercourse with the People. Public 
 Security. Beggars. Thieves. 
 
 Population. The population of the Mexican Republic is 
 about 15,000,000, almost equally divided between males and 
 females. Of these, more than 8,000,000 who have reached 
 their majority can neither read nor write. The census of 1920 
 recorded 8,000 persons over 90 years of age, and 700 over 100 
 years, out of the (then) total population of 14,637,779. There 
 are 12,000,000 of Catholics, of whom about 3.000 are priests. 
 Some 70,000 persons profess no religious belief, and 50,000 
 or more are divided among the ten different beliefs (with 277 
 ministers) from Protestant to Mahommedan, thence to Con- 
 fucianism and Buddhism. The two latter beliefs (with Tao- 
 ism) are professed by most of the ten thousand Chinese in the 
 Republic, while the Japanese, of whom there are some 8,000, 
 are mostly Shinto ists. Of the total population 19% are of 
 pure, or nearly pure, white race; 43% of mixed, and 38% of 
 Indian race (comp. Language, p. xviii). Of the mixed Indian 
 races only a small portion can be regarded as civilized. They 
 are slowly but surely merging their identity with that of their 
 neighbors; their national life is almost gone, child mortality 
 among them is distressingly high — albeit the women are 
 “ much addicted to maternity ” — and their customs — which 
 are not distinguished for pulchritude — aid in their oblitera- 
 tion. 
 
 The Indians of Mexico enjoy all the political and civil rights 
 of born Mexicans; but they exercise little influence on the 
 government and destiny of "the nation. Special law T s for their 
 protection are features of the Mexican code. There is little or 
 no anti-foreign spirit among them. Some of the Indian women 
 — not all of whom could be accused of extreme cleanliness — 
 are very handsome, with large, soft, dark eyes and good fea- 
 tures. 
 
POPULATION 
 
 lxi 
 
 The foreign population includes the natives of forty or more 
 countries and numbers over 100,000; of whom there are 30,000 
 Americans (who are in the majority), 20,000 Spaniards, and 
 about 5,000 British. (American capital to the value of about 
 $800,000,000 (gold) is invested in the Republic, and the Eng- 
 lish interests are enormous.) About 15,000 Americans and 
 3,000 or more British (including Canadians) dwell in Mexico 
 City. This number is on the increase. 
 
 “The Mexican of to-day has the blood of more races in his 
 veins than any other American. Iberian, Semite, Hamite, 
 Goth and Vandal, Roman and Celt, mingled their blood in that 
 stream of brave and adventurous men who first set eyes on 
 Yucatan in 1517, and w T ho conquered Mexico in 1522. Like 
 Spain from the remotest time, Mexico soon became the meet- 
 ing-ground of races, of peoples, of languages, and of religion. 
 Within the area of its original territory there were more fami- 
 lies of native languages than in all the Western Hemisphere 
 besides; and, to complete the chain, there were more kinds 
 and grades of culture there. 1 The Seri Indians, of Sonora 
 (p. 80), are as abject as the Fuegians, while the Nahuatl and 
 Maya-speaking tribes of the Valley of Mexico and of Yucatan 
 occupied the most elevated position for culture in the New 
 World. 
 
 “The origin of the Mexican aborigines is involved in that of 
 the American Indians, since within the present boundaries 
 of the Republic are gathered representatives of every zone 
 from the Apache , an Athapascan , whose principal home is in 
 Alaska, to the tribes of Oaxaca and Chiapas, who are the chil- 
 dren of a torrid clime. There are now in Mexico perhaps ten 
 times more Indians than were ever at any time within the 
 United States domain.” 
 
 The linguistic families in Mexico are as follows: 
 
 Nahuatlan, 1,750,000. The tribes of this stock are found 
 in almost unbroken continuity from Sinaloa along the Pacific 
 slope to the border line of Guatemala. In the Valley of Mexico 
 they occupied three districts, Tezcuco, Tlaccpan, and the an- 
 cient city of Mexico. This family — known as Aztec, or Mexi- 
 can — holds the most prominent position in the history of the 
 Conquest. 
 
 Piman, 85,000. The Opata-Pima of the later Mexican au- 
 thorities occupy the western northern States, as far south as 
 Guadalajara , lying along the Gulf of California, except where 
 they are cut off by the Seri, but they do not anywhere ap- 
 proach the ocean, being intercepted by the Nahuatlan tribes. 
 This stock now occupies the site of the Casas Grandes (p. 54) 
 and other adobe ruins, and it is reasonable to suppose that 
 their ancestors were the builders and inhabitants of many 
 
 1 Otis T. Mason, Mexico. International Bureau of American Repub- 
 lics, Washington. 
 
lxii 
 
 POPULATION 
 
 ancient pueblos and cliff sites, both in Arizona and northern 
 Mexico. The Tarahumares (p. 57) belong to this family. 
 
 Yuman, 2,500. The lees of a great tribe which once inhab- 
 ited the California peninsula. 
 
 Seri an, 200. Dwell in the State of Sonora (p. 80) and on 
 Tiburon Island (p. 80) off the coast. 
 
 Tarascan, 250,000. Inhabitants of Michoacan, Guerrero, 
 and Jalisco. (Comp. p. 181.) 
 
 Zoquean, 60,000. Oaxaca chiefly; also Guerrero and 
 Puebla. Some few dwell in Chiapas and Tabasco, between 
 the Mayan and Zapotecan tribes. Little is known of their 
 origin, save a tradition of their having come from the South. 
 
 Totonacan, 90,000. N. part of Puebla and Vera Cruz; 
 their ancestors were the first natives encountered by Cortes. 
 
 Zapotecan, 580,000. Chiefly in Oaxaca; also in Guerrero 
 and Puebla. The ruins of Mitla (described at p. 534) are 
 within their territory, with their wonderful artificial hills, 
 stone buildings, fretworks in cut stones, columns, and wall 
 paintings. Benito Pablo Juarez (p. 338) was a Zapotec Indian. 
 
 Otomian, 709,734. A widely spoken language formerly. 
 The tribes were among the earliest in the Valley of Mexico, 
 and they spread themselves over the States of Guanajuato, 
 Hidalgo, Queretaro (their special habitat), San Luis Potosf, 
 and Michoacan. They are often called Serranos (mountaineers) 
 because of their fondness for hilly country. 
 
 Mayan, 400,000. Yucatan, Chiapas, and Vera Cruz. The 
 advance guard of New World progress. Scholars have conse- 
 crated their lives worthily to the Maya civilization. To the 
 Mayas are assigned the wonderful ruins of Palenque, in Chia- 
 pas, described at p. 567; of Copan, in Honduras, and of Ux- 
 mal (p. 580) and Chichen-Itza (p. 581), in Yucatan. The 
 42,000 Haustecas , of Vera Cruz, are of this family. 
 
 Tequistlatecan, 31,000. A nondescript tribe dwelling, 
 under various names, in Oaxaca. 
 
 Huavan, of which there are 5,000, dwell in Chiapas. 
 
 Athapascan (Apaches), 8,000, in northern Chihuahua, and 
 the southwest of the U. S. A. 
 
 The above families are widely subdivided and as widely 
 scattered. 
 
 For further information under this head consult Mexico , 
 International Bureau of the American Republics, Govern- 
 ment Printing Office, Washington, pp. 24 et seq. ; Native 
 Races, by Hubert Howe Bancroft, San Francisco, 1883. 
 
 Intercourse with the People. In social matters the Mexi- 
 cans are as minutely ceremonious as the French, and marked 
 politeness is requisite in dealing with them. Even com- 
 mercial intercourse is often dignified by a wealth of high- 
 flown language quite unusual among the matter-of-fact 
 
INTERCOURSE WITH THE PEOPLE 
 
 lxiii 
 
 Americans and the linguistically economical Britons. But 
 the stranger should not place too much dependence on the 
 grandiloquent promises and the somewhat exaggerated court- 
 esy of certain of the people he meets. To be simpatico (sym- 
 pathetic, amiable) at any cost is the aim of the Mexican, and 
 this sometimes leads him into making protestations which 
 he does not really believe and has no intention of abiding by. 
 The humblest country Indian, whose lowly hut is not infre- 
 quently made of grass and discarded railway ties, offers this 
 home and its contents — usually an astonishingly varied 
 entomologica} congress — with a grandiose speech as fluent 
 as that of the city diplomat who places his palacio and its 
 gorgeous contents a la disposicicn de usted (at your order) . 
 To praise a thing in Mexico, be it a jewel, a horse, a house, an 
 hacienda, or anything, is to have it placed instantly a la orden 
 de Ud. While no one is expected to take these things, or the 
 speeches, literally, it is a costumbre del pais (custom of the coun- 
 try) to offer them, and the tactful stranger will soon fall into 
 this costumbre and thus escape being j udged lacking in savoir- 
 faire. If certain of these costumbres appear odd to the visitor 
 he should bear in mind that climate, inheritance, and environ- 
 ment are responsible for them. The unfailingly polite attitude 
 of the native unquestionably adds to the enjoyment of a visit, 
 and a temporary adoption of the “customs” will do no harm 
 and will aid the traveller to a fuller enjoyment of his sojourn. 
 If the national courtesy should awaken a suspicion of insincer- 
 ity, the traveller may like to recall Emerson’s remark: “The 
 morning dew is superficial, but it gives depth to the meadow.” 
 
 The Mexican loves companionship. His innate kindness 
 requires some object for his solicitude, and if his spirits bub- 
 ble effervescently at times, it is usually because he desires to 
 make some one comfortable. When he meets an old friend 
 (un amigo antiguo), he takes him to his heart literally, and 
 with an arm half around him, pats him on the back affection- 
 ately at parting. On entering or leaving a restaurant, a rail- 
 way car, or any public room where persons congregate, the 
 polite native bows, ostensibly to the person nearest the en- 
 trance; but the salute is intended for all present. No further 
 introduction is necessary for the moment. In many little 
 ways he proves that his courtesy and hospitality are not con- 
 fined to his own people ; and he creates the impression that if 
 he never knows intimately the foreigners who visit his coun- 
 try, he will at least prove that he wishes to make them feel 
 at home whenever and wherever he meets them. The lonely or 
 disconsolate cannot remain long in Mexico without being 
 touched by this strong under-current of geniality. The most 
 frigid Northerner generally thaws beneath the genial beams 
 of Mexican good humor and volubility. 
 
 As politeness is the cult of all classes, the average Mexican 
 
lxiv INTERCOURSE WITH THE PEOPLE 
 
 is quick to respond to it. He is deferential from instinct, and 
 the brusque or discourteous stranger is regarded as ill-bred. 
 The civil traveller slips through the country with a minimum 
 of friction and leaves pleasant memories wherever he stops. 
 The icy aloofness of certain Anglo-Saxons, and the frigidly 
 “ superior” manner of others are distasteful to the warm- 
 blooded, impulsive native. The best liked visitors are those 
 who are amiable, tolerant, and polite. They are considered 
 simpatico, i. e., persons who appreciate Mexico and the Mexi- 
 cans at their true worth. The Mexican flag, religion, customs, 
 and traditions are dear to the native, and he is quick to defend 
 them. The thoughtful person never judges nations by individ- 
 ual shortcomings, and it is therefore well to bear in mind that 
 the abominable habits of the lower classes are just as obnox- 
 ious to well-bred Mexicans as they are to foreigners. The con- 
 stant aim of the best people is to elevate the masses, and this 
 laudable ambition is being accomplished slowly but surely, 
 against tremendous odds. By eschewing politics and religion 
 and by conforming, as nearly as possible, to established cus- 
 toms, the visitor will gain the esteem of the commonalty, en- 
 joy his visit, and endear himself to those whose opinion he 
 may well value. Says an authority : “ Avoid trying to convince 
 the natives against their will; it is arguing against a north- 
 east wind and a sheer loss of time, too; for in a fine indolent 
 climate, where there is little to do, the unemployed twaddlers 
 spin nonsense by the yard. View Mexico and her inhabitants 
 en color de rosa, and it will go hard if some of that agreeable 
 tint be not reflected on such a judicious observer, for, like a 
 mirror, the Mexican returns your smiles or your frowns, your 
 courtesy or your contumely ; nor is it of any use going to Rome 
 if you quarrel with the Pope. Strain a point or two, therefore, 
 to make things pleasant. Never measure Mexican institutions 
 by American standards, nor seek for motes in bright eyes.” 
 One American term, “ Greaser /’ 1 should be left at the fron- 
 tier, as it is as disagreeable to Mexican ears as “Gringo” 2 or 
 any equally inappropriate epithet would be to those of an 
 American. — Mexicans and Spaniards mutually dislike being 
 mistaken, the one for the other. 
 
 1 The term Greaser , according to R. H. Dana (in Two Years Before 
 the Mast), originated in California. Between the years 1830 and 1850 
 many shiploads of hides and tallow were sent from San Francisco to New 
 York, via Cape Horn. The Mexican longshoremen at the California docks 
 were dubbed greasers because they were usually covered with grease 
 from handling the products mentioned. 
 
 2 Gringo is of doubtful origin. It is supposed to be a corruption of Griego 
 (Greek), as: hablar en gringo, to talk unintelligibly. Me habla en gringo , 
 it’s all Greek to me! In Spanish-America it is a nickname applied to Ameri- 
 cans chiefly, but to foreigners generally who speak a language not under- 
 stood by the natives. In Mexico the appellation is half friendly, half con- 
 temptuous; but among friends it is not resented. The word is found in 
 Labernia’s Diccionario Catalan, and many other old books. 
 
PUBLIC SECURITY 
 
 lxv 
 
 The vituperative epithet of the Mexicans is cabron (male 
 goat), which corresponds to the French cochon , to the Italian 
 vacca , and to a certain inelegant and disparaging accusation 
 (referring to ancestry and moral purity) frequently bandied 
 about by certain American tongues. When applied, this offen- 
 sive title is apt to provoke instant physical retaliation. 
 
 The peones (vulgarly called pelados 1 — the skinned ones) 
 are sometimes densely ignorant and very exasperating. They 
 are known as gente sin razon — people without reason — and to 
 avoid exciting their inflammable passions the tactful person 
 will treat them with the circumspection accorded ignorance 
 everywhere. The prudent man will never lay hands on one in 
 anger, for he promptly resorts to the knife to settle difficul- 
 ties, and, as a rule, values life as lightly as an Oriental fatalist. 
 Each one considers himself a caballero, and therefore the equal 
 of any foreigner. Besides, he is in his own country, for which 
 his progenitors fought and died very valiantly, and naturally 
 the laws are framed for his protection. 
 
 Says another authority: ‘‘Unquestionably the best attitude 
 for one to adopt is that of an uncritical and amiable observer. 
 And as to the church miracles and such, I am always of easy 
 faith in such matters, and am very willing to be deceived, 
 where the deceit is pleasant and costs nothing. I am therefore 
 a ready believer in relics, legends, and local anecdotes of gob- 
 lins and great men ; and would advise all travellers who travel 
 for their gratification to be the same. What is it to us whether 
 these stories be true or false, so long as we can persuade our- 
 selves into the belief of them, and enjoy all the charm of the 
 reality? There is nothing like resolute good-humored credul- 
 ity in these matters.” 
 
 Public Security. The towns and highways of Mexico are 
 as safe as those of any civilized country. The rurales or rural 
 police, an admirably disciplined, picturesque, and efficient body 
 of men, patrol suburban and country roads and do police serv- 
 ice outside the towns. As a rule, they are trustworthy, and 
 they have succeeded in making highway robbery ( bandoler - 
 ismo ) almost a thing of the past in Mexico. These men are 
 easily distinguished by their buckskin and gray uniforms; by 
 their hats, which bear a metal number indicating the troop 
 to which they belong ; and by their horses and general equip- 
 ment. They usually travel in couples or in squads, and are 
 frequently seen at the country railway stations. Wherever 
 they go, they represent the strong arm of the law. Their pre- 
 sence is always a guarantee of safety to the traveller; and as 
 it is their duty to check things that are wrong, one need never 
 
 1 The term is equivalent to the French sansculotte. The lowest order 
 of pelado is called a lepero — which means a poor, ragged, miserable, 
 and vicious person. 
 
lxvi 
 
 BEGGARS 
 
 hesitate to call upon them. They are a sober lot of men, re- 
 sponsible to their jefe (chief) in some cuartel not far off, and 
 as long as the traveller remains in touch with them he is al- 
 most as much under the Government’s wing as if lodged in the 
 National Palace at Mexico City. On Sept. 16th of each year 
 many thousand of these ruroles repair from the interior to the 
 capital to take part in the national celebrations. They are 
 superior in physique and equipment to the ordinary soldier or 
 policeman, and when clad in their picturesque costumes they 
 present a fine sight. 
 
 The policeman ( gendarme — policia, gendarmeria) should not 
 be called upon to settle trifling disputes, as he generally re- 
 fers all matters to his chief at the nearest comisaria (police 
 station), and although adjustments are often made in the 
 foreigner’s favor, the comisario is a busy man and much time 
 may be lost awaiting one’s turn. In cases of accidents or dis- 
 turbances the stranger should get out of the way as quickly as 
 possible, as the careful gendarme , in an effort to prevent the 
 escape of the guilty, is apt to arrest any one he can lay his 
 hands on. Prisoners are sometimes kept incomunicado (in soli- 
 tary confinement) for the first 48 hours, until an investigation 
 can be made. On the other hand, the comisaria is the place 
 to lodge serious complaints. The police are extraordinarily 
 expert in running down thieves ( cacos ) — comp. p. lxvii — and 
 in locating stolen property. The police and detective service 
 of Mexico City is superior to that of many cities. At night 
 the policeman’s lantern is usually placed in the middle of the 
 street, while the guardia retires into the shadows to watch it. 
 The sereno is rapidly becoming obsolete in Mexico. A special 
 license is necessary to carry concealed weapons, which should 
 never be shown in the street. 
 
 Beggars — pordioseros — limosneros — can always be turned 
 away by the words “ ! Perdoneme por Dios ! ” — Pardon me in 
 the name of God! They constitute a large and varied class and 
 should never be assisted. Children are taught to beg from in- 
 fancy, and though one pities the bedraggled and poorly clad 
 mites, it should be borne constantly in mind that money given 
 them goes directly into the hands of shiftless parents who 
 as promptly spend it for drink. Clo tiling follows the same 
 course, and is soon pawned for a mere trifle of its worth, as the 
 average beggar would rather go naked than be deprived of 
 drink or cigarettes. The successful child beggar grows into a 
 professional and lays an added burden upon the state. 
 
 The average Mex. beggar is a chrysalis usuallv ready to de- 
 velop into a full-fledged thief. His apparent misery is gener- 
 aliy artificial ; the result of laziness. Though often repulsively 
 filthy, and sometimes insistent, he is rarely abusive. Every 
 church and railway station has its beggars, of which the blind 
 
THIEVES 
 
 lxvii 
 
 and the very old are usually the only deserving. It is well to 
 remember, however, that in Mexico the blind beggar is often 
 remarkably clear-sighted, the halt and the lame can outsprint 
 a gendarme when necessity urges, the deaf hear with extraor- 
 dinary keenness, and the hungry hunger more for cigarettes 
 and pulque than for the excellent bread {pan) baked in the 
 lccal panaderias. 
 
 Despite government efforts to suppress mendicancy, the 
 wheedling voice of the saint-and-blessing-invoking pordiosero — 
 for-God-saker — is heard from one end to the other of the 
 land. Labor is always in demand, and the supply falls far short 
 of the needs. No healthy person of either sex need beg. Innu- 
 merable practitioners of this art beg from pure laziness, finding 
 it to their mind less degrading than work and an easy and 
 profitable profession. The foreign tramps who have no passion 
 for clean linen, and who make Mexico their winter rendezvous 
 during the season, should be ignored. 
 
 While the benevolent impulse is strong in the Mexican, for- 
 eigners are perhaps the greatest upholders of the begging evil. 
 The astute mendicant usually limits his solicitation to a cen- 
 tavito (little cent) , and the charitable stranger considers it an 
 ambition too modest to remain ungratified. Travellers arc 
 warned against all beggars and their wiles. Learn the phrase 
 referred to and apply it ; and thus earn the thanks of Govern- 
 ment and all industrious folk. 
 
 Americans particularly are cautioned against a “stranded 
 countryman” who accosts one as “friend,” and whose wiles 
 are more pronounced than any desire for work. During the 
 winter, Mexico is afflicted with a plague of “ambitious pro- 
 moters down on their luck, and stranded in a foreign land,” 
 who follow the vagrant and migratory wild-fowl in their search 
 for a more generous climate than that of the North. The 
 Mexican Government, in its desire to exhibit a friendly spirit 
 toward all foreigners, is far more lenient with this soiled and 
 weary army than it deserves, and ‘‘beach-combers” are too 
 often permitted to solicit alms unmolested. 
 
 There is no lack of charitable organizations in the Republic. 
 
 Thieves ( cacos , rateros, ladrones) are numerous in Mexico 
 despite the relentless war waged against them by the author- 
 ities. When captured, malefactors are shown but scant court- 
 esy: long terms in prison (or at the penal colony of Tres 
 Marias Islands , the “Botany Bay” of Mexican thieves, comp, 
 p. 96) are given the purse-snatcher, the pickpocket, the pil- 
 fering servant, and the wily lime- thrower. Certain incorrig- 
 ibles are not only sent up for long terms, but are later drafted 
 into a certain corps of the army and forwarded to the un- 
 healthiest part of the tierra caliente. As a rule, the Mex. thief 
 is not as malevolent as his foreign brother: if possible he 
 prefers to rob without bodily injury to his victim. He much 
 
lxviii 
 
 THIEVES 
 
 prefers to steal during the day and trust to his cunning and 
 his heels to escape, rather than to force the premises at night. 
 For this reason house-breaking is rare. The most expert and 
 daring thieves are usually degenerate Spaniards; they cut 
 down through house-roofs to rob stores and ware-rooms, and 
 they despoil churches, poor-boxes, and the like. Anything 
 that Dios les da (God gives them) comes not amiss to them. 
 Ore-thieves, known as “highgraders,” are the bane of mine 
 operators ; they purloin valuable ores in many ingenious ways, 
 despite efforts at prevention. 
 
 Thieves sometimes steal wire cable by the mile, notwith- 
 standing the risk of electrocution and the penalty of five years 
 in the penitentiary if caught. The railways lose fish-plates, 
 bolts from freight-cars, engine-fittings, and the like, while the 
 householder often mourns the loss of lead-pipe, bath-room 
 fixtures, potted plants, door-plates, push-buttons, and what- 
 ever portable thing can be lifted or wrenched from the house. 
 
 Nothing is considered safe from the Mexican ladron, and as 
 a rule nothing portable is ever left out of doors — even in the 
 daytime. Door-mats are always chained down, as are also 
 store-seats and the like. Ash-barrels are never left in the 
 street. Female thieves, while not as numerous as male, are 
 often quite as daring and persistent. 
 
 Churches are usually remunerative fields for cocos. Within 
 their sacred walls the pious thief pursues his calling with 
 unflagging industry and generally with undeserved success. 
 The softening influence due to the sanctity of the place reaches 
 him only in his digital muscles — and it seems to render them 
 astonishingly flexible. Mexico City thieves formerly went to a 
 church called La Virgen de la Soledad, where, before embarking 
 on predatory excursions, they offered up a prayer for success. 
 
 The Thieves’ Market (see p. 296) at Mexico City is an alleged 
 fence where ladrones sell ill-gotten property for a trifle. Visits 
 ors are cautioned against it, as receivers of stolen goods are 
 not regarded kindly by the Mexico City police. 
 
 The traveller has to be on his guard chiefly against sneak- 
 thieves and pickpockets. He should be particularly alert 
 while visiting churches and museums and while on crowded 
 thoroughfares and in street-cars. When occupying apart- 
 ments on the ground floor he should see that nothing portable 
 is left near the barred windows. The thief who devotes his 
 energy to this branch of the industry carries a telescopic pole 
 or a long cane with a hook at the end. With this he can reach 
 far into a room, and he will remove anything that can be made 
 to pass through the grating. It is inadvisable to fall asleep 
 in railway cars when the window is open, as portable articles 
 are apt to be lifted out at stations. Photographic cameras are 
 much sought after by certain thieves, and the traveller possess- 
 ing one will do well to watch it constantly. 
 
SHOPS — GUIDES 
 
 lxix 
 
 When the traveller loses anything by theft, he should re- 
 port the matter to police headquarters at once. A Rogues 1 
 Gallery is maintained in the capital, and the alert chief knows 
 the genealogy of almost every thief in the Federal District. 
 The department is amazingly efficient in promptly locating 
 thieves and in recovering stolen property. 
 
 VIII. Shops. Guides. Drawn-Linen. Pottery, Cigars 
 and Tobacco. 
 
 Shops ( tiendas , almacenes) usually possess many attrac- 
 tions for the tourist. The American establishments generally 
 have fixed prices {precios Jijos) marked in plain figures. Some 
 of the natives — knowing that to bargain or dicker ( regatear ) 
 is odious to Anglo-Saxons — advertise precios Jijos, but a re- 
 duction of the first demand will generally be made, especially 
 in purchases of considerable value. In certain shops that do 
 not advertise fixed prices, unreasonable demands are often- 
 times made of foreigners. Clerks are not infrequently allowed 
 to charge what they will, and to retain a portion of what they 
 can get, over and above a certain price. The custom of hag- 
 gling is so deeply rooted that some Mexicans will refuse to 
 buy if a reduction is not made, and many shops adjust prices 
 accordingly. The antique shops of the different cities (partic- 
 ularly in the capital) are usually very attractive and well 
 worth visiting. As correct guarantees of values are only to 
 be obtained from reputable firms, the traveller is advised to 
 consult some friend before making purchases of importance. 
 The traveller is particularly cautioned against the spurious 
 antiques offered by irresponsible shop-keepers. Articles bought 
 from street venders are generally worthless. Mexico is a land 
 of curios, many of them inexpensive and attractive. The fine 
 drawn-linen, mantillas, fans, carved furniture, porcelains, 
 sarapes , and the like, make very desirable souvenirs. 
 
 For a list of shops at Mexico City comp. p. 244e. 
 
 Guides {el quia — guias ) are advisable where one’s time is 
 limited ; they are generally more useful in Mexico City than 
 elsewhere. None should be employed except when recom- 
 mended by the hotel manager or some reputable shop-keeper. 
 The Guides of the capital are usually bi-lingual, and less greedy 
 and artful than the general run of European couriers, and the 
 hurried traveller can often save considerable time by employ- 
 ing them. (Address any of the first-class hotels or the Sonora 
 News Company, Ave. Madero 17, City of Mexico.) Their pay 
 is from five to ten dollars a day for one person or a party, and 
 when taken on country trips their expenses must be added. 
 
 Drawn-Linen. The art of making drawn-linen ( deshilados ) 
 was first taught in Mexico by the Spaniards, and it became 
 
lxx 
 
 DRAWN-LINEN 
 
 popular immediately, as work suitable for the cloistered nuns 
 and girls being educated in religious schools. It is made in 
 many parts of the Republic, in a great variety of intricate 
 and beautiful designs. The best pieces are fashioned from 
 imported Irish linen, and are generally made in ecclesiastical 
 schools where time is ample, and by girls who thus employ 
 their spare moments at home. Such work is usually con- 
 tracted for, or bought,, by the high-class dealers in antiques 
 in Mex. City. Many inferior articles are produced and are for 
 sale in cheap shops, on the streets, and at railway stations: 
 they are generally made of a sort of half-linen and half-cotton, 
 which looks well at first, but which soon ravels out and loses 
 its freshness. The best examples of the art are characterized 
 by a filmy, lace-like quality, and though delicate in appear- 
 ance, they are nevertheless strong and durable. Table-cloths, 
 centrepieces, napkins, doilies, handkerchiefs, shirt-waists, and 
 an almost limitless variety of pieces fashioned in the form of 
 dainty little wheels are made in quaintly beautiful Mexican 
 patterns. Travellers are recommended to buy only the best, 
 as this is much cheaper in Mexico than the lower grades are 
 in the U. S. A. and elsewhere. 
 
 The origin of the work is unknown, but it became the fashion to draw 
 linen pieces in Italy (notably in Venice) about the year 1500, and the 
 product was called punto a reticello. The usual designs were open squares 
 or diamond shapes with diagonals from comer to comer and two bars 
 from side to side, the diagonals crossing each other at a common cen- 
 tre, thus forming a radiation of eight lines bounded by a square. This 
 fine and delicate handicraft soon became the rage, and a pattern-book, 
 published in Cologne in 1527, gives many elaborate designs, the most 
 prominent being mediaeval and Arabesque borders enclosing circles, 
 curved scrolls, and heraldic designs. The industry — along with Vene- 
 tian lace-making — was introduced into France in the middle of the 
 17th cent, and it quickly found its way thence to Spain and other 
 European countries. Drawn-linen is now quite generally manufactured. 
 The Japanese excel in making certain patterns, that are rendered more 
 attractive by a superimposed embroidery in white silk, but they some- 
 times turn yellow with age. The originators of the quasi-modern work 
 were perhaps the Chinese, for at Canton it has been made for time out 
 of mind. Some excellent specimens of a primitive kind of drawn-linen 
 (now in the British Museum) were found in Egyptian tombs wrapped 
 about the bodies of mummified kings and aristocrats. 
 
 Pottery-making in Mexico is an inheritance from the 
 earliest tribes which inhabited the country, but what was once 
 an art has degenerated into a third-rate manufacture. Cer- 
 tain of the early Mexicans made fine and beautiful pottery: 
 some of the votive bowls, idols, vases, toys, masks, and what- 
 not exhumed from their ruined dwellings and tombs are 
 worthy to adorn the choicest collections. The excellent speci- 
 mens that have been unearthed prove that various localities 
 had distinctive features of design, quality, and color. Lus- 
 tred and plain pottery is still made in many districts, and 
 while the productions are, as a rule, inferior to those of the 
 ancients, certain pieces make very desirable ceramic souvenirs. 
 
POTTERY 
 
 lxxi 
 
 Much of the lustred pottery made after the middle of the 
 16th cent, was influenced by Spanish ideas and methods. 
 The Dominican Friars who settled in Mexico soon after the 
 Conquest imported Toledan potters and established at Puebla 
 (and certain other points) potteries for the manufacture of 
 the celebrated Talavera Ware and the polychrome Mud£- 
 jar Tiles so often seen on the fagades of the old seignioral 
 houses and on the cimborios of the early churches. About 
 this time a considerable quantity of the real Talavera was 
 imported to adorn the homes of the Spanish noblemen and 
 to serve as models for the Mexican-made pieces; the tourist 
 lover of ceramic art can perhaps find no more acceptable 
 relics of Spanish Colonial days than these genuine bits. 
 
 The shapes of the original Talavera pieces are varied, those 
 predominating being cylindrical drug-jars or albarelli, basins, 
 plates, bowls, and vases. Certain of the latter are large and 
 capacious, and are fitted with metal tops and curious old Span- 
 ish hand- wrought iron locks : they were doubtless used as re- 
 ceptacles for small valuables. The decorative work is gen- 
 erally crude — the characteristic color scheme being blue and 
 white, or else blue and yellow, partly Mudejar — although 
 some of the pieces reveal a high degree of artistic drawing. 
 The odd combination of metal and porcelain makes them 
 highly prized by antiquarians. 
 
 The majolica drug-jars are usually about 10 inches in height 
 and are decorated with birds and heraldic designs. Plates 
 are often found among the genuine pieces, and they carry, as 
 a rule, heraldic designs in the centre. The bowls usually meas- 
 ure about 15 inches in diameter, and the smaller, barrel- 
 shaped vases from 10 to 15 inches in height. The finest speci- 
 mens of the imported Talavera — now unfortunately rare — 
 are to be found in private collections and in the best antique 
 shops of the capital. As certain of the Puebla craftsmen are 
 known to have imitated the Talavera potters, “with embar- 
 rassing perfection,” purchases should be made from reputable 
 dealers who not only know how to distinguish the real from 
 the spurious pieces, but who will also truthfully advise the 
 traveller regarding quality and worth. 
 
 For two centuries following the Conquest the potteries 
 [ throve, and at one time more than a score were in operation 
 in and near Puebla. The potters of Cholula particularly soon 
 became celebrated for their fine wares, and Puebla sent its 
 glazed tiles to decorate churches throughout the country. 
 The art began to decline in the first quarter of the 19th cent., 
 and pieces made prior thereto are of greater worth than the 
 present day imitations. Seventeenth century productions 
 show Chinese 1 influence, no doubt due to the many fine 
 
 1 The traveller will be interested in knowing that some very rare and 
 splendid pieces of early Chinese porcelains are to be found in Mexico — 
 
lxxii 
 
 POTTERY 
 
 pieces of Asiatic faience which found their way to Mexico 
 via the Philippines and Acapulco. 
 
 Writing of the pottery made by the imported potters, Mr. 
 Barber * 1 says: “ Examples of the Puebla w’are, decorated in 
 the Oriental manner, have been found in considerable abund- 
 ance, giving rise to t he supposition that they are the work of the 
 Chinese. The theory has even been advanced by certain Mex- 
 ican antiquaries that Chinese potters were brought to Mexico 
 from the Philippines, but it is more reasonable to suppose that 
 these pieces are the productions of the later Spanish-Mexican 
 potters, who, breaking away from the old traditions, imitated 
 the w’ares brought from the Orient. 
 
 “Mexican or Puebla maiolica — tin enamelled pottery — 
 known also as Stanniferous {stannum — tin) F aience, is a 
 coarse, more or less porous w’are covered with a heavy, opaque, 
 putty-like white enamel, resembling in appearance thick white- 
 lead paint, which, as a rule, show’s on the under side of pieces, 
 or the backs of plates, in ridges or drops where its flow’ has 
 ceased. It seems to be of two distinct varieties, one of w T hich, 
 and evidently the earlier, more strongly resembles the old 
 Spanish and Chinese products in form and coloring, wdiile the 
 other, of coarser texture and glaze and inferior decoration, re- 
 veals a distinct native Mexican feeling in treatment, particu- 
 larly in the crude and gaudy coloring, the reds, yellows, and 
 greens often being vivid and harsh. The blue and yellow col- 
 ors, w’hich predominate, have been applied thickly, and are 
 perceptibly raised above the white ground. 
 
 “The Mexican maiolica is, as a rule, poorly potted, and has 
 a pinker, harder, and more gritty body than the Spanish. The 
 enamel is less opaque and less evenly applied, frequently show T - 
 ing the tint of the body beneath and numerous pores or pin- 
 holes. The decorations are more crudely painted, and the dark 
 blue, w’hich predominates, is less clear than that of the Spanish 
 ware and stands out in pronounced relief, as though it had 
 been thickly mixed and heavily applied in coarse bold strokes. 
 Other colors found in old Puebla-ware are green, yellowq 
 brick red, and dark browm. The yellows and greens have 
 also, in many instances, been thickly laid on. Frequently the 
 enamel presents the appearance of having a heavy coating of 
 transparent, siliceous glaze, w’hich gives it a harder and mor* 
 glassy appearance. These peculiarities make the attribution oi 
 the old Puebla maiolica a matter of considerable ease, since the 
 
 pieces that collect ors would have great difficulty in duplicating in Chin a 
 to-day. So great was the rage in America for Chinese porcelains during 
 the 17th and 1 8th centuries, that when a loaded galleon reached Acapulco 
 from the Philippines, trading-ships came from Peru and other South 
 American points to meet it, and hundreds of thousands of pesos were 
 exchanged for the exquisite productions of the skilled Asiatic craftsmen. 
 
 1 Tin Enameled Pottery, by Edwin Atlee Barber, A. M., Ph. D., Phil- 
 adelphia, 1906. , 
 
POTTERY 
 
 lxxiii 
 
 genuine Spanish pottery of Talavera, which is still to be met 
 with in Mexico, shows more careful workmanship, and the 
 decorative colors, being thin, do not stand out in relief. The 
 Mexican maiolica was not covered with a bath of lead glaze, 
 or marzacotto, as were the Italian tin-enamelled wares. The 
 decorations were painted directly on the crude enamel, and 
 became incorporated with it when fired in the kiln.” 
 
 The original Talavera was made at Talavera de la Reina (near Toledo, 
 Spain), where it was much esteemed. In the 17th and 18th centuries 
 the word Talavera is said to have been commonly applied to pottery in 
 Spain, just as the word Delft is used in England to indicate stanniferous 
 faience. The student may consult The Industrial Arts in Spain , by Juan 
 Facundo Riano, London, 1879 ; and Arts and Crafts of Older Spain , by 
 Leonard Williams, London, 1907. 
 
 The old Puebla tiles are coarsely decorated with dark blue 
 designs — conventionalized flowers, animals, and human 
 figures, some of the latter grotesquely exaggerated. Certain 
 pieces bear representations of saints, and are painted in yellow 
 and black on a solid raised blue ground. Others bear rude 
 paintings of Chinese in blue. Many of the early Indian 
 churches contain dadoes of these ancient products. 
 
 Other desirable ceramic souvenirs are the fine iridescent 
 wares made near Patzcuaro (comp. p. 209), albeit the present 
 day imitations are inferior to the specimens made by the early 
 Tarascan artisans. Good examples of the old ware, exhumed 
 near the village of Santa Fe, show the pieces to carry a fine 
 copper lustre, with a metallic sheen and shifting waves of 
 ruby, green, and blue light — an effect produced by subject- 
 ing the ware to a fierce fire. The Tarascans at one time made 
 splendid pieces of terra-cotta, decorated in red, white, and 
 black. Cheran (p. 223) appears to have been the centre of this 
 manufacture, as some excellent specimens have been dug up 
 near there. The ornamental designs resemble those of the 
 Arizona and New Mexico Indians, and the articles are gener- 
 ally in the shape of jars, pitchers, bowls, and domestic uten- 
 sils. The ware is very friable, and it is difficult to transport it 
 safely. 
 
 Near Zacapu (p. 223), in the same State of Michoacan , and 
 hard by the Tarascan stronghold, a handsome light gray 
 pottery with black and red decorations is sometimes found. 
 The color designs are often remarkable for their geometrical 
 progression ; the most significant characteristic of the ware is 
 the liberal use of the Swastika, and the Greek key pattern — • 
 the former the talismanic symbol of many Oriental nations, 
 as well as of the Navajo Indians. As this pottery was perhaps 
 made in pre-Columbian times, it would be interesting to know 
 whence the potters derived their inspiration. 
 
 The pottery of the Tarahumare Indians (p. 57) is similar 
 to that of the New Mexico Indians. The clay is quite fine, 
 white with a grayish yellow tinge. The decorations are black 
 
lxxiv 
 
 POTTERY 
 
 and red, and black only, and they consist of birds, cloud-scrolls, 
 animals, and whatnot. Some of the ware is brown, with simple 
 but strikingly artistic ornamentation. The black ware is highly 
 polished and the most friable. 
 
 The T arahumares are pottery experts, and a skilful workman will 
 make a medium size jar in about 20 minutes. The serviceable clay is 
 a trifle sweet, of a pale yellow color, and it abounds in the region. The 
 women taste the clay before using it to make sure it is the right kind. 
 It is first dried, then ground and mixed with pieces of old pottery. A 
 lump of clay is hollowed out in the shape of a cup, and on this founda- 
 tion — which rests on a bowl filled with ashes and covered with a cotton 
 cloth — the jar is built up. the layers of clay being placed on success- 
 ively, and smoothed carefully over with a wet hand, making the walls 
 thinner and thinrer. All irregularities on the outside are removed with 
 a sharp stick, and the vessel is polished with a stone. When thoroughly 
 dried and painted it is turned upside down over charcoal, and pieces of 
 pine bark are placed all round it. The heat first turns the clay dark, 
 then yellow. (Consult Unknown Mexico, by Carl Lumholtz.) 
 
 Guadalajara (p. 161) pottery is finer than most Mexican 
 ware, and albeit certain of the pieces are banded with gold and 
 silver leaf and are decorated in colors too inharmonious and 
 garish to suit the foreign taste, others (much liked as souven- 
 irs) are distinguished by soft grays very pleasing to the eye. 
 The pottery is soft^baked and very friable, and is made gener- 
 ally in the form of animals, fowls, vases, water-bottles, and 
 the like. The water-bottles ( botellones ) are offered for sale in 
 sets ( juegos ), comprising the bottle, a plate, and a cup. Prices 
 vary from one to five pesos according to quality. These juegos 
 are in daily use by the natives, who refer to the ware as loza 
 fria, or cold pottery. Water kept in the bottles cools by evap- 
 oration. “When filled with water, they emit a pleasant smell 
 like that of dry earth rained upon in summer, and as the water 
 filters through the outer surface they remain continually 
 damp.” Tourists are advised to use them as ornaments only. 
 The interior of the bottle cannot be cleansed, and each fresh 
 influx of water leaves a deposit. A bottle used for some time 
 will, on being broken, be found to contain sediment and 
 numerous microbes. The large bottles are called enfriaderas 
 (coolers). The finest sets, and those in which the colors are 
 most artistically blended, are usually to be found in the an- 
 tique shops. — Attractive specimens of the Guadalajara pot- 
 tery are those made in soup-plate form, containing figurines 
 of horses with riders clad in the national costume. — Guada- 
 lajara is known also for its profane pottery, made secretly and 
 sold to the vulgar-minded. The ware is whitened, and the 
 excellent constructive nature of the work recalls the Meissen- 
 ware. — In the suburban town of San Pedro (p. 179) clay busts 
 (cost $10-$15^ and figures are made. The traveller sits for 
 a likeness, and within an hour or two a bust, sometimes remark- 
 able for its fidelity to the sitter, is delivered. 
 
 The ware known as Guadalupe Pottery , and which is usu- 
 
POTTERY 
 
 lxxv 
 
 ally sold to the pilgrims who go to the shrine at Guadalupe , 
 is made at the little town of Cuauhtitlan. Much of it is of a 
 dark, polished green or black, adorned with pictures of the Vir- 
 gin of Guadalupe. The black lustred ware is adorned with bou- 
 quets of flowers, figures, and twisted clay ropes, that are stuck 
 on the glazed ground, and burned on in the firing. 
 
 Guanajuato pottery is usually dark green or brown, with 
 figure ornamentations, and finished in a soft, rich glaze. At 
 Dolores Hidalgo a soft-baked, smooth, unglazed ware is made 
 which carries flower decorations. The manner of applying 
 these — generally in circles — differentiates the ware from 
 other kinds made in the Republic. 
 
 Zacatecas ware is usually red, hard-baked, lustred, and dec- 
 orated with rude splashes of underglaze color. It is very brittle, 
 and great care is necessary in transporting it. 
 
 Perhaps one of the finest pieces of ancient Mexican pottery 
 ever unearthed in the Republic was found some time since, a 
 few feet below the surface of the ground, in a garden in Tepic 
 city (Territorio de Tepic). Near this piece (which was designed 
 and decorated in imitation of a turkey, and which is now in 
 a private collection in Tepic) were found a number of fine tur- 
 quoises and 26 small solid gold bells. 
 
 “This turkey jar, which is about six and a half inches high, is interest- 
 ing from many points of view. It is excellently made of fine grain mate- 
 rial, slate-coloured, thin, and of such remarkable resistance, that the man 
 who dug it up brought his pick down on it with full force, but made only 
 a hole at the point of contact. The head and neck of the bird, which are 
 hollow, were evidently made separately and put on after the body was 
 finished. The brilliant surface of the jar, resembling a glaze, is a light 
 olive brown running into a slate, mottled in places with spots of a brick- 
 red colour. The head and neck of the turkey-handle are painted a bright 
 red, and the wattles, all clearly indicated, are each ornamented with a 
 thin little leaf of gold. The same bright red outlines a whitish band 
 around the neck of the jar, as well as the turkey’s feet and upper part of 
 the wings on the body of the vessel. This band, as well as the middle part 
 of the wings, the legs, and the feet, were once covered with thin gold-foil; 
 on the middle part of the wings remains of a cross band of gold leaves 
 may still be seen. There are indications that the upper part of the wings 
 was painted greenish blue. The lower part of the wings as well as the tail 
 are represented by fluting. Ornamentations of gold-foil have also been 
 found on ancient beads and potsherds unearthed in the Tarasco country. 
 The bird which the jar represents is rendered so well that even the species 
 of the turkey is unmistakable. The red, wart-like wattles, as well as the 
 erectile process on the head, are those of the Yucatan, or ocellated turkey 
 ( Meleagris ocellata). The elegant ribbon of golden bronze across the 
 middle of the wing is as conspicuous in the original as in the jar. The t.ur- 
 quois green-blue that once represented the wings, as well as the profu- 
 sion of the gold and the high polish of the jar, combine to give an impres- 
 sion of the iridescent gold and green colors of the brilliant turkey itself. 
 The splendid shape and fine workmanship of this jar make it one of the 
 most remarkable specimens of ancient American ceramics. Not many 
 pieces of such ware are to be seen in the museums of the world, and none 
 comparable with this piece. There is reason to believe that an ancient 
 factory of this kind of ware once existed in Guatemala, or southernmost 
 Mexico, but the locality of it has never been discovered.” A more de- 
 tailed description of this and other curious ancient ware (illustrated with 
 a series of finely colored plates) will be found in Carl Lumholtz’s Un- 
 known Mexico. 
 
lxxvi 
 
 TOBACCO 
 
 Other excellent specimens have been — and are almost con- 
 stantly being — excavated from ruins in the Mexican terri- 
 tory. At San Juan Teotihuacan (p. 425) countless terra-cotta 
 masks have been found similar to those which abound on the 
 Isla de Mujeres (off the coast of Yucatan). Mitla (p. 534) has 
 produced many pieces that have gone to swell the collections 
 of antiquaries in Mexico and abroad. 
 
 All the Indian tribes make their own cooking utensils. The 
 ware is very friable, and throughout Mexico it takes the place 
 of the usual pots and pans of other kitchens. Potteries for 
 making the ware are found on the outskirts of almost every 
 Indian 'pueblo. 
 
 Tobacco ( tabaco ), Cigars ( puros ), and Cigarettes ( cigarrill - 
 os, or little cigars) of excellent quality can be bought at the 
 many tabaquerias (tobacco-shops) at reasonable prices, usually 
 cheaper, as regards quality, than in the U. S. A. The cigars 
 best liked by Americans (and Mexicans as well) are the La 
 Prueba brands, made by Balsa Hermanos, in Vera Cruz 
 (State of Vera Cruz), and the Violeta, Sin Rival, and Rica 
 Hoja brands made by Gustavo Mayer & Cia., at Orizaba 
 (State of Vera Cruz). Both products enjoy an international 
 reputation, and by many smokers are regarded as superior to 
 the famous Havana cigars. — Of equal fame are the cigarettes 
 (much liked b}~ smokers generally) of the Buen Tono Co. (El 
 Burn Tono, S. A.), whose huge, modern factory at Mexico 
 City constitutes one of the touristic sights of the capital. 
 
 The Mexican cigars are milder than those of Havana, with 
 a fine flavor and a tendency to burn more evenly. They are 
 generally claro, or of light color. Tinfoil is often used to cover 
 them; an advantage in dry climates, as it preserves the aroma 
 and often prevents their being broken in one’s pocket. 
 
 Strangers should never buy cigars offered mysteriously on 
 the street or at railway stations. Though alleged to have been 
 stolen from some factory, thej^ are in reality home made, of 
 inferior tobacco, assembled by hands of dubious cleanliness, 
 and in an environment which the average smoker would avoid. 
 By packing the cigars in boxes of well-known brands, the 
 makers swindle the bu}^er, defraud the government of revenue, 
 and usually get an excessive profit through false representa- 
 tion. To get fine cigars one must buy them of reputable dealers 
 who handle only high quality products. 
 
 For reference to customs regulations governing the importa- 
 tion of tobacco, etc., into the United States, see p. xvi. 
 
 Tobacco (Spanish tabaco; Aztec yeti) is indigenous to Mexico (where 
 many of the iOO or more species are found), and its cultivation is 
 a large and growing industry. That most extensively cultivated is of a 
 superior quality, with a fine aroma, and a flavor peculiarly its own; 
 it carries but a small percentage of nicotine and meconic acid, and is 
 particularly well adapted as a “filler.” The plant (Nicotiana tabacum, 
 of the order Atropaceae, or Night-shade) receives its generic name from 
 Jean Nicot, onetime French ambassador to Portugal, who sent the first 
 
HUNTING AND FISHING lxxvii 
 
 plant from Lisbon to Paris in 1560. Albeit it grows in many of the Mexican 
 States, it thrives best in the tierra caliente, where it is cultivated to a 
 high perfection. The States of Vera Cruz , Oaxaca , Colima , Tamaulipas , 
 Tabasco , San Luis Potosi, Tepic, and Michoacan are said to produce the 
 best tobacco. 
 
 The annual production is about twenty-five million lbs. Large quanti- 
 ties are shipped to England, Germany, and Belgium. Most of the pro- 
 duct remaining in the Repub. is made into cigars and cigarettes, of which 
 latter upward of four billion are consumed yearly. (It is estimated that 
 three million cigarettes are smoked in Mex. City every day.) There are 
 some 700 tobacco factories in the Repub.; several of the largest being in 
 the Federal District , and the State of Vera Cruz. The greatest consumers 
 of Mexican cigars are foreigners. No chewing-tobacco is manufactured. 
 Snuff (rape) was formerly made in considerable quantities, but its manu- 
 facture has dwindled to insignificant proportions. The smoking of 
 tobacco in pipes is limited. 
 
 Wax matches ( cerillos ) are sold at all the tabaquerias at 
 from 1 c. to 10 c. a box. 
 
 IX. Hunting and Fishing. Photography. 
 
 Hunting and Fishing. Although little effort is made to 
 preserve game in Mexico, it is abundant, and the range of the 
 different species is wide. The splendid cover afforded by the 
 forests arid by the more or less thick brushwood of the vast, 
 uninhabited plains, has aided greatly in the protection of the 
 wild beasts, which in some districts are such a pest that they 
 are hunted with a view of extermination. There are three 
 distinct species of large Felidce — the Jaguar, or American tiger, 
 called by the natives tigre Americano ; the Puma or second 
 largest American tiger (Sp. puma); and the Ocelot ( ocelotl 
 of the Aztecs), classed among the wild-cats (Sp. gato montcs 
 or silvestre ), which are very numerous, particularly in the 
 northern States of the Republic. The huinduri, a species of 
 wild-cat which infests the mountains of Guerrero State, is 
 hunted lor its beautiful skin . In the mountainous districts of 
 Jalisco, Tepic, Chiapas, and Vera Cruz (and other sections) is 
 found the Yaguarondi Cat ( Felis yaguarondi tolteca), which 
 is known variously to the Mexicans by its proper name, by 
 that of the jaguar, and as little lion — leoncillo. It kills the 
 cattle on isolated haciendas and is exterminated when found. 
 In the State of Tamaulipas the hacendados have organized 
 systematic hunting expeditions to rid the region of the felidce 
 which destroy their stock. 
 
 Deer (Sp. venado) of many varieties are found scattered 
 throughout the country, and they are hunted by all classes. 
 Very common is the Mexican Deer (odocoileus) , the smallest 
 of which is the Black-faced Brocket ( Mazama sartorii), often 
 met with on the Pacific slope. The Burra-deer, a large variety 
 of the black- tail ( Cervus cdumbianus) , is common at the North, 
 where the bucks sometimes weigh three hundred lbs. Here- 
 about are also many wolves (Sp. lobo) and coyotes ( Canis 
 latrans), the coyotl of the Aztecs. White- tailed deer (C. vir - 
 
lxxviii 
 
 HUNTING AND FISHING 
 
 ginianus ) are plentiful in almost every part of the Republic 
 The Sierra Madre Range (p. 53) of Western Chihuahua (the 
 chosen hunting-ground of Texas and Arizona hunters) is the 
 favorite range of black and brown bear. Grizzlies are also 
 occasionally met with. 
 
 Among the smaller game found in many parts of the coun- 
 try are Wild-boars (Sp. jabali) ; Peccaries (Sp. pecari); Badgers 
 (Sp. tejones); White-nosed Coati Mondi, a species of badger; 
 Raccoon (Sp. coati); Guatemalan Gray-Fox (Sp. zorra), and 
 an abundance of Squirrels (Sp. ardilla), of various species. In 
 the barrancas and the lowlands is a curious little Ring-tailed 
 Cat ( Bassariscus astutus ) , related to the raccoons. Tapirs (Sp. 
 tapir or danta ), Armadillos (Sp. same), Sloths (Sp. perezoso), 
 many varieties of monkeys (Sp. mono), Ant-eaters (Sp. oso - 
 hormiguero ) , and similar animals are found in the tierra caliente. 
 Rabbits (Sp. conejo) are common everywhere. Crocodiles (Sp. 
 cocodrilos) and Alligators (Sp. caiman) abound in certain dis- 
 tricts. On the west coast the harpooning of alligators is con- 
 sidered fine sport. A huge lizard (Sp. iguana) is hunted by 
 the natives of the tropics. 
 
 Feathered game is found in great profusion, and in the lake 
 regions of Chapala, Patzcuaro (p. 213), etc., the number of 
 ducks (Sp. pato) is almost incredible. The softness of the 
 winter climate, the high price of ammunition, and the in- 
 difference of the natives to hunting have tended to attract and 
 preserve the myriad wild-fowd which make Mexico their win- 
 ter rendezvous. Ducks and geese (Sp. ganso) are found from 
 the American frontier to the Valley of Mexico, and from the 
 high table-land to the lagoons of the E. and W. coast. In the 
 Chapala region (described at p. 152) — which is a breeding- 
 ground for a small w r orld of feathered creatures — one may 
 find assembled a wonderful range of flying game, including 
 Snow and White-fronted Geese, Mallard, Canvas-back, Pin- 
 tail, Shoveller, Muscovy, Lesser Scaup, and other ducks; 
 Green-winged, Blue-wunged, and Cinnamon Teal; Wood, 
 White, and White-faced Glossy Ibis; Loons, or Great Northern 
 Divers; the Western, the Least, and the Pied-billed Grebe; 
 Cormorants and Pelicans; Coots and Herons; Egrets (which 
 in many parts of Mexico are hunted for their feathers) ; Snip?; 
 and whatnot. The Grayson Bob-white and the Scaled Par- 
 tridge, and Quail are plentiful, and Doves are everywhere. 
 In the Sierra Madres of Western Chihuahua the Wood- 
 peckers (p. 5S) attain the size of a huge Macaw, and these, 
 in turn, impart grace and color to the tropical forests of the 
 lowdands. Mexico is the original home of the Turkey (Sp. 
 pavo, Mex. guajolote), and the splendid specimen ( Meleagris 
 ocellata) w T hich makes Yucatan (p. 572) its habitat is the 
 finest of its kind. Pheasants (Sp. faisan) are found in several 
 States. A catalogue would be required to list the birds, which 
 
PHOTOGRAPHY 
 
 lxxix 
 
 range from the Royal Eagle (Sp. aguila real) to the Falcon 
 (Sp. gavilan), thence to a myriad parrots (Sp. papagayo , loro f 
 perico ) , and down to the beautiful and omnipresent Hum- 
 ming-birds (Sp. colibri , chupamiel, etc.). 
 
 The waters of the oceans which lave the Mexican shores, 
 as well as of the lakes which dot the country, and the rivers 
 which cross it, teem with fish. Fishing for tarpon at Tampico 
 (p. 49), and for the myriad marine creatures which swarm 
 into the bay at Guaymas (p. 79), is the popular sport of many. 
 Further information under this head will be found in different 
 places in the Handbook. 
 
 Photography. The customs regulations permit the traveller 
 to bring one camera into Mexico free of duty. Plates, films, 
 and other supplies (made in the U. S. A.) are to be had in 
 almost all the large cities of the Repub. Photographers are 
 accorded almost limitless privileges in Mexico, where restric- 
 tions are few. They should, however, be very circumspect 
 about photographing objects near fortifications or within 
 military zones. Government officials, churchmen, and others 
 are helpful, as a rule, and when permission (which should 
 always be obtained) to photograph buildings, pictures, church 
 altars, and so forth is requested in a courteous way, it is 
 rarely refused. The national politeness should not, however, 
 lead one to conclude that the laws are less rigid against vio- 
 lators, and that fortresses, arsenals, and the like can be photo- 
 graphed with impunity. When in doubt, ask some one in 
 authority. 
 
 The summer sun of Mexico is high and subjects stand in 
 their own shadows with intense high-lights on the pavements ; 
 this extreme contrast can be overcome to some extent by 
 working rather against than with the source of light. The best 
 results come from having the light shine in at the side rather 
 than from directly behind. The winter light is no stronger 
 than that elsewhere, and quite as much time is required in 
 making exposures as would be given anywhere in the U. S. A. 
 The ordinary snap exposure with diaphragm No. 8 for hand- 
 camera work is 2 V th of a second. For distant views, and for 
 work on lake or river, use a No. 16 diaphragm. It is well to 
 remember that the broad-brim Mexican hats make heavy 
 shadows, and that pictures taken from above are apt to be 
 unsatisfactory. In making pictures on light cloudy days use 
 a No. 4 diaphragm. On cloudy days one can sometimes obtain 
 beautiful results by exposures directly toward the setting sun. 
 Mexican cloud effects are oftentimes magnificent, and a ray 
 filter will aid materially in reproducing them. (The relative 
 increase in exposure with a ray filter is determined by the 
 density of the glass.) 
 
 Church interiors offer fine possibilities, and the light — 
 
lxxx 
 
 PHOTOGRAPHY 
 
 which comes from above and is diffused — is generally good. 
 The best results are usually obtained from a two-minute ex- 
 posure (rest your camera on the projecting edge of some pillar 
 or altar railing) with a No. 64 diaphragm. In photograph- 
 ing native types, it is well to remember that a ragged urchin 
 will stand just as still for 25 cents as he will for a peso. 
 
 Everywhere on the Great Central Plateau (to which the 
 above remarks refer) dryness is the emphatic quality of the 
 air, and the shadows are cool. Dark rooms do not become 
 stuffy, particularly in Mexico City and other high places, where 
 one can work to splendid advantage, as films never soften in 
 the fingers. Water from any tank located in a shady spot 
 on the roof will serve in the developing. Conditions are very 
 different in the hot lowlands, where the air is moist and the 
 water tepid — or with vegetable matter in solution. 
 
 As a rule, plates are unsatisfactory in the hot country. Be- 
 fore leaving the table-land, have your films sealed in tin tubes, 
 and when the tropics are reached, load the camera and use the 
 films at once, then return them to the box. They spoil verv 
 quickly after exposure to the moist atmosphere, and the next 
 day after being opened, may see them useless. They will nat- 
 urally keep longer before being opened. Where the condition 
 of tropical water is unknown, tank or machine development 
 should not be attempted, as much of the water contains lime, 
 iron, etc. Immediately after making exposures, films should be 
 re-sealed in the tube and sent to the highlands for developing. 
 The traveller who carries his films back to the U. S. A. before 
 developing them is apt to lose much of his work. 
 
 It is well to remember that sun-umbrellas cast -wide shadows 
 and render difficult the taking of faces under them. Also that 
 in humid, tropical places, films should not remain too long in 
 the camera; unless they are kept in a tin case they may spoil. 
 In fact in such places both camera and films should be stored 
 in oiled paper or some waterproof covering. Owing to peculiar 
 climatological conditions in the hot country films on a roll 
 sometimes will show under-exposure, while others will be over- 
 exposed. 
 
 Contrary to the general impression, bull-fight pictures do 
 not necessarily require rapid exposure. By watching for a 
 chance, and photographing a group when momentarily in- 
 active, one can usually get good results with a oV th of a sec- 
 ond, or ordinary instantaneous exposure. If you see good 
 material for a picture during the baiting of the first bull, 
 snap it, and don’t wait for the appearance of the second ani- 
 mal, as the same combination may never again present itself; 
 furthermore, as the fight proceeds (comp. p. xcvii) the light 
 grows dim with the advancing twilight. Be constantly on 
 your guard against camera thieves — who also profit by time 
 exposures. 
 
PHOTOGRAPHY 
 
 Ixxxo 
 
 Mountain Photography. The traveller interested in obtaining first-hand 
 pictures of volcanoes is reminded that the sulphur fumes which emanate 
 from them are apt to attack the silver in films brought into proximity to 
 them, and to ruin isochromatic plates even when these are protected by dark 
 slides. Exposed plates will often be found to be covered with blotches, and 
 parts of the negatives positive. Ordinary plates are the best for such work, 
 as the sulphurous vapors do not always affect them. Those who know what 
 it means to make an expensive, and perhaps hazardous, journey to the top 
 of an active volcano in order to get photographic results, and to take ad- 
 vantage of chances that may never re-occur, only perhaps to find their 
 work fruitless, will appreciate the value of care and forethought. 
 
 The experienced mountain photographer usually carries with him a col- 
 lapsible tripod ten or twelve feet high, with a step-ladder accompaniment, 
 to facilitate the taking of pictures in a crater, over the volcano’s lip. 
 
 It is of supreme importance to remember to take every possible precau- 
 tion against pneumonia while working at high elevations in Mexico; for 
 first-hand mountain photography there is fraught with peril. 
 
 The amateur interested in mountain photography will do well, before 
 undertaking climbing expeditions, to seek the advice of experts with local 
 experience. Mr. Hugo Brehme, Ace. 5 de Mayo 27, Mexico City , whose re- 
 markably beautiful pictures of Mexican life in many of its phases are the 
 delight of artists and laymen, has perhaps had the widest experience of any 
 photographer in Mexico in mountain work. His pictures are on sale at the 
 best stores, and they are widely used to illustrate articles on Mexico. 
 
 English- Spanish Photographic Terms 
 
 Camera, cdmara 
 
 (cah-mah-rah) 
 Folding, plegadiza 
 
 (pleh-gah-de e-sah) 
 Portable, portatil 
 
 (pohr-tah-teel) 
 
 Film, pelicula 
 
 (pay-lee-coo-lah) 
 
 Roll of, rollo de (ro-yo-day) 
 Plate, placa fotografica 
 
 (plah-cah fo-toh-grah-fee-cah) 
 Plate-holder, porta-placas 
 
 (pohr-tah plah-cahs) 
 Tripod, tripie 
 (tree-pee-a) 
 
 Diaphragm, diafragma 
 
 (de-ah-frag-mah) 
 Ray-filter, filtra-rayos 
 
 (feel-trah-rah-yohs) 
 Shutter, obturador 
 
 (ohb-too-rah-door) 
 
 Photograph, fotografia 
 
 (fo-toh-grah-fee-ah) 
 Photographer, fotografo 
 
 (fo-toh-grah-fo) 
 To photograph, fotografiar 
 
 (fo-toh-grah-fee-ahr) 
 Photography, fotografia 
 
 (fo-toh-grah-fee-ah) 
 
 Photographically, 
 
 fotograficamente 
 (fo-toh-grah-fee-cah-men-teh) 
 Exposure, exposicion 
 
 (ex-po-see-se-own) 
 Instantaneous, instantdnea 
 (een-stahn-tah-ne-ah) 
 To develop, revelar 
 
 (ray-veh-lahr) 
 Developer, revelador 
 
 (ray-veh-lah-door) 
 Bath, bano (bahn-yo) 
 
 Lens, lente (len-teh) 
 
 Trigger, ratchet, dispar ador, per a (dees-pah-rah-door, peh-rah) 
 
 When Mexicans speak of a portrait, picture, or likeness, they express it by 
 the word retrato (ray -trah- toh). A portrait-painter, or photographer of 
 such is retratista (ray-trah-tees-tah). The familiar expression for photo is 
 estampa fotogrdfica (es-tahm-pah foh-toh-grah-fee-cah). To photograph is 
 retratar (ray-trah-tahr) por la fotografia, or sacar (sah-cahr) una (OO-nah) fo- 
 tografia. 1 
 
 1 The phonetic pronunciation of many terms similar to the above will be 
 found in Terry's Short Cut to Spanish, referred to on the first cover page of 
 this book. 
 
lxxxfr 
 
 PHOTOGRAPHY 
 
 The amateur photographer in Mexico is advised to use an 
 Exposure Meter. Good ones may be secured from almost any j 
 dealer. Perhaps the best is the Harvey No. 2, which by a 
 simple adjustment can be used in any latitude and at any ( 
 season of the year. In the absence of such a meter consult 1 
 the following table. It is practical and in a majority of i 
 cases will ensure a successful exposure. 
 
 It is based on a normal exposure at diaphragm stop 8, | 
 according to Universal System (U. S.) which is equivalent j 
 to stop 11 in the F system. 
 
 The greatest aperture on Box Cameras, and in fact all ; 
 cameras equipped with a single, or Meniscus Achromatic 
 lens and whose diaphragm stops are numbered 1-2-3 as on 
 some models of Kodaks, is equivalent to U. S. 16. 
 
 APPROXIMATELY CORRECT EXPOSURES WITH STOP F.8 
 
 U. S. 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 2.5 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 16 
 
 32 
 
 64 
 
 Kodak Stops 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 Stop numbers F = 4.5 
 
 5.6 
 
 6.3 
 
 8 
 
 11 
 
 16 
 
 22 
 
 32 
 
 Relative exposure 550 
 
 350 
 
 235 
 
 160 
 
 80 
 
 40 
 
 20 
 
 10 
 
 Talbe shows exposures with Graflex Film, Eastman Film, Seed 30 Plates. 
 
 With Seed Graflex Plates, shutter speed can be increased one-third. 
 
 Exposures ■with stops Larger or 
 
 Smaller 
 
 May 
 
 June 
 
 Mar. 
 
 Apr. 
 
 Jan. 
 
 Feb. 
 
 than F . 8 should be respectively D ecreased 
 
 July 
 
 Aug. 
 
 Sept. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ceeding larger or smaller stop used. 
 
 9 AM 
 
 7 AM 
 
 10 AM 
 
 S AM 
 
 11 AM 
 
 9 AM 
 
 Example = Third group — May — 
 
 •Bright — 
 
 to 
 
 and 
 
 to 
 
 and 
 
 to 
 
 and 
 
 9 A.M. to 3 P.M. = 160— 
 
 F8. 
 
 3 PM 
 
 5 PM 
 
 2 PM 
 
 4 PM 
 
 1 PM 
 
 3 PM 
 
 Distant — Landscapes, 
 
 Bright 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mountains, Vessels 
 
 Sun 
 
 350 
 
 160 
 
 295 
 
 135 
 
 235 
 
 110 
 
 Very Open — Beach Views, 
 Snow Scenes, River Views 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Hazy 
 
 195 
 
 90 
 
 160 
 
 75 
 
 135 
 
 60 
 
 Aviators in Flight 
 
 Cloudy 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Open Views from Train 
 
 Dull 
 
 80 
 
 50 
 
 65 
 
 40 
 
 50 
 
 35 
 
 Open — Landscapes, Roads Bright 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 & Fields, Snow Scenes 
 
 Sun 
 
 195 
 
 110 
 
 160 
 
 90 
 
 135 
 
 75 
 
 Nearby — Beach Views, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Vessels and Boats 
 
 Hazy 
 
 110 
 
 60 
 
 90 
 
 50 
 
 65 
 
 40 
 
 Light Buildings, Athletic 
 
 Cloudy 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Events from Grandstand 
 
 Dull 
 
 65 
 
 35 
 
 50 
 
 30 
 
 35 
 
 25 
 
 Vessels at Wharf, Medium 
 
 Cloudy 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Buildings, Light Streets 
 
 Dull 
 
 50 
 
 25 
 
 40 
 
 20 
 
 30 
 
 15 
 
 Shady Park Views, Figures 
 
 Bright 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 in Shade of Building or 
 
 Sun 
 
 110 
 
 60 
 
 90 
 
 50 
 
 80 
 
 40 
 
 with Dark Background 
 
 Hazy 
 
 65 
 
 35 
 
 50 
 
 30 
 
 40 
 
 25 
 
 Light City Street, Shady 
 
 Cloudy 
 
 
 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 Porch groups 
 
 Dull 
 
 35 
 
 20 
 
 30 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 Shady Driveway, Views 
 with Overhanging Trees 
 
 Sunny 
 
 50 
 
 30 
 
 40 
 
 25 
 
 35 
 
 20 
 
 Hazy 
 
 30 
 
 20 
 
 25 
 
 15 
 
 20 
 
 10 
 
 Figures under Piazza 
 
 Cloudy 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Dark City Street 
 
 Dull 
 
 20 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 1-5 
 
 10 
 
 1-2 
 
CACTI 
 
 lxxxi 
 
 It should be remembered that though the light in Mexico 
 seems extremely brilliant, for some inexplicable reason, it has 
 no great actinic value, and that one is prone to underexpose. 
 
 The American Photo Supply Co., S. A., Ave. F. I. Madero 
 No. 40, Mexico City, makes a specialty of developing for 
 travellers. 
 
 X. Cacti. Mescal. Tequila. Aguardiente. Pulque. 
 
 Cacti. Mexico has its share of the 500 or more species of 
 cacti found in America, and the plants ( Cactacea , an order of 
 Caly ci floral dicotyledons) grow in great profusion in many parts 
 of the Republic. They form the dominant vegetation of cer- 
 tain vast plains which stretch along the Great Central Plateau. 
 Some thrive best on the sandy lowlands of Yucatan, others on 
 the yellow plains of Sonora. Most prominent among the latter 
 are the species Cerei, which rise to a height of sixty feet or 
 more; their straight, rigid, and spiny trunks supporting great 
 branches like candelabra — whence the name Candelabra 
 cacti. Others creep along the ground, and some species, while 
 showing but a small bunch of leaves or pads above ground, will 
 possess, beneath the surface, a tap-root as large as a barrel; 
 from this circumstance the plant is often called the “spring 
 of the desert.” If unmolested, nearly all the cacti develop 
 brilliant flowers : all are covered with spines, and some are 
 strangely grotesque in shape. Some are cultivated, and they 
 produce considerable private and national wealth. Others 
 serve the natives in a variety of ways, and are of almost ines- 
 timable value — particularly to the poorer folk, to whom they 
 stand in the same relation that the reindeer do to the Laps — 
 providing food, drink, and raiment. All the species may be 
 said to have good points. Certain of them produce delicious 
 fruits — notably the Nopal and the Pitahaya — and from the 
 roots of others a variety of sweetmeats are prepared. The 
 natives fashion wicker stools and matting from their tough 
 fibres, and prepare an appetizing stewed dish (with a taste 
 like okra) from the spiny nopal pads. Several beverages 
 (p. lxxxii) are distilled from the roots of certain of the 
 plants. Most prominent among the cacti is the Maguey 
 (Aztec, metl), the generic name for 33 species which thrive on 
 the Mex. plateau. Of these species the American Aloe or 
 Pulque-plant is the best known and the greatest wealth pro- 
 ducer. (Although in Mexico the Aloe or Agave is usually classed 
 with the cacti, it is really a genus of plants of the natural 
 order Amaryllidacece.) It thrives best at an altitude of 7,000 
 ft., and while it grows prolifically at a lesser elevation, it re- 
 quires a longer time to mature. In some places — notably 
 New Mexico, Arizona, Texas, and Lower California — the 
 plant matures so slowly and flowers so rarely that there 
 are persons who believe it blossoms but once in a hundred 
 
Ixxxii 
 
 MESCAL 
 
 years — hence the name “Century Plant.” No vegetable 
 product of the Mexican plains is so imposing as the maguey , 
 and the Greek agave (noble) is fittingly applied to it. From 
 the equitant leaves, juice, and roots of the different species, a 
 variety of products are obtained : paper, vinegar, molasses, and 
 whatnot are made from the pulp; and twine, thread, and 
 many other articles from the fibres. The fine fibre called pita 
 (a name often applied to the plant) makes very serviceable 
 rope, which, though less pliable than hemp and less impervious i 
 to water, is strong and durable enough for many purposes. 
 Some of the most valuable Aztec manuscripts were written | 
 or painted on paper made from the maguey , and this parch- 
 ment was long considered the equal of Egyptian papyrus. 
 Certain of the plants attain enormous size, and from the hard, 
 spiny, green-and-white leaves — usually tipped with sharp 
 thorns, or espinas — the natives obtain a satisfactory needle 
 and thread by stripping off the thorns, pulling out the at- 
 tached fibres, and rolling them together. The poorer folk i 
 thatch their rude homes with the long maguey leaves — plac- 
 ing them lengthwise, like shingles : the concave side serves as a j 
 trough through which the water falling from the eaves is car- 
 ried away. From these same leaves a large, fat worm is ex- 
 tracted and eaten by the Indians, who consider it a great deli- ; 
 cacy. The lower leaves and the roots are roasted, and from 
 them are distilled two fiery, gin-like beverages, Tequila and i 
 Mescal — popular with all classes. But of far greater import- I 
 a nee is the production of the liquor called Pulque — a pro- i 
 duct which has a direct bearing on the destiny of the Mexican I 
 nation. 
 
 Mescal, a product of the agave , is made in the States of Jalisco, I 
 Sinaloa, Puebla, Hidalgo, and Michoacan, and its consumption by the II 
 lower classes is very large. Tequila is distilled from a species of maguey jj 
 called Zotol , which grows extensively in the State of Jalisco, near the i 
 town of Tequila — whence its name. Both liquors are transparent and p 
 harmless-looking, but they are to be studiously avoided. A wine-glass I 
 full will render the uninitiated intoxicated to the finger-tips. When 
 drunk after eating certain Mex. fruits, it is said to engender sinister re- 
 sults. A common man drunk on tequila or mescal oftentimes harbors I 
 murderous intentions. 
 
 Aguardiente (brandy), which resembles tequila and is often confounded j 
 with it, is usually distilled from sugar-cane, although it is sometimes 
 made from grapes. It is manufactured in large quantities in the sugar- k 
 producing States of Vera Cruz, Morelos, Jalisco, Oaxaca, Mexico, Coa- E 
 huila, ana Yucatan. 
 
 Pulque. In the production of pulque the plants are care-H 
 fully cultivated . As soon as an old plant withers, a multitude 
 of young shoots, or suckers, spring up from the roots, and they 
 are removed and planted in symmetrical lines with a space 
 of about three yards left between each. If the soil is rich, 
 they require no attention until the flowering period, which is 
 reached after 7-10 years. During this period they are unpro-j 
 ductive. The plant is not easily affected by heat or cold, and 
 
PULQUE 
 
 lxxxiii 
 
 it requires but little water. Like the vine, the maguey yields 
 the best liquor, independent of the climate, in volcanic or sili- 
 ceous soil. When full grown the plant bears a striking resem- 
 blance to an exaggerated imbricated artichoke ( alcachofa ) . The 
 leaves are sometimes ten ft. in length, a foot in breadth, and 
 eight or ten inches thick. From the centre of these great, 
 fibrous leaves, the plant will, if unmolested, send up a giant 
 flower-stalk 20 or 30 ft. high, upon which cluster two or three 
 thousand greenish yellow flowers; after this crowning effort 
 the exhausted plant dies. It is when in the throes of borning 
 the flower that the central shoot is cut off, and then, for two 
 or three months, the sap ( aguamiel , or honey- water) , which 
 was destined to give brief life and beauty to the aloe’s brilliant 
 offspring, flows into the basin prepared for it and is converted 
 into pulque. When the stem is cut off short, the heart of the 
 plant is scooped out, leaving only the thick outer rind, which 
 forms a small hollow in which the juice gathers. In a maguey 
 field {maguey al) these mutilated plants are readily distin- 
 guishable by the fresh heart which is stuck on one of the sharp 
 spines — as a signal to the gatherers that the plant is ready 
 for attention. The tlachiqueros, or harvesters, know by un- 
 mistakable signs, almost the hour at which the central stem, 
 destined to produce the flower, is about to appear, and the 
 extraction of the heart of the plant is quickly accomplished. 
 If performed too soon or too late, the operation is unsuccess- 
 ful and the plant dies. 
 
 A productive plant will yield from ten to fifteen pints of 
 unfermented juice every day until it dies. Two or three times 
 a day the liquid is drawn from its receptacle by means of a 
 gourd-like instrument (made from a species of calabash — 
 Lagenaria vulgaris) with a small tube at each end, that acts 
 like a pipette, and is called an acocote (also guaje). One end is 
 thrust in the liquid, the other is placed in the peon’s mouth, 
 and suction draws the sap into the central bulb. Then the peon 
 stops the lower hole with his finger, to prevent the escape of 
 the liquor, and proceeds to fill the pig-skin. When this pig- 
 (or sheep-) skin — which is usually slung athwart the tlachi - 
 quero’s back — is full, the aguamiel is transferred to the tinacal , 
 or fermen ting-rooms at the hacienda. This “ honey- water ” is 
 sweet to the taste, and is devoid of the offensive odor character- 
 istic of the finished pulque . Fermentation is hastened by the 
 introduction of madre , or mother -pulque, that has been kept 
 for a fortnight and allowed to become rank and sour, mixed 
 with the fresh liquid it acts as a sort of leaven and excites 
 quick change. Within 24 hours the mass becomes the pulque 
 of commerce. Twenty-two of the 33 species of maguey pro- 
 duce aguamiel , and six pulque fmo, or fine pulque. 
 
 Pulque is an alcoholic (about 6%) mucilaginous liquor, holding m 
 suspension white corpuscles which give it its color; it has an odor 8ui 
 
Ixxxiv 
 
 PULQUERfAS 
 
 generis , a taste peculiarly its own (somewhat of the nature of sour butter- 
 milk), and is more or less sugary — depending upon its strength. It 
 resembles watered milk or thin flour paste. It spoils quickly, and one 
 day converts it into madre-pulque and gives it the status of stale beer. 
 It is akin to the durian of the Malay Archipelago and to certain European 
 cheeses, in that its taste is supportable if one can induce one’s nose to 
 become reconciled to the smell — which is not unlike that of sulphur- 
 etted hydrogen or fetid eggs. The natives ascribe stomachic qualities 
 to it and imbibe it in staggering doses. 
 
 The unfermented aguamiel “is a limpid liquor golden in color, some- 
 times whitish and mucilaginous (according to the species of the maguey ), 
 with a bitter-sweet flavor and of an herbaceous odor. When first taken 
 from the root-stalk of the maguey at the point where the floral peduncle 
 begins to unfold, it froths when shaken, gives an abundant precipitate 
 with sub-acetate of lead, and when filtered the resultant liquor is color- 
 less. An analysis of aguamiel by a celebrated chemist gave glucose, 
 albumen, sugar, and water as the principal ingredients.” 
 
 The finished pulque is stored in hogsheads and sold in pulquerias — 
 pulque shops. The best pulque is said to come from the Plains of Apam, 
 the centre of which is the town of Apam (p. 497). Long trains loaded 
 only with pulque, leave this district each morning and bring the product 
 to the pulquerias of the city. 
 
 The Pulquerias are, as a rule, squalid and repulsive dens, 
 usually distinguishable by a fringe of soiled, vari-colored tissue 
 paper strung across the entrance; by fa 9 ades painted in lurid 
 colors and marked by low, bacchanalian scenes in which 
 frowsy females in diaphanous draperies are the central fig- 
 ures ; by the sour smell imparted by the pulque , and by the 
 odd names given them by the caprice of the proprietors. 
 A long counter stands across the interior ; barrels painted in 
 vivid colors are ranged along the wall ; scores of cheap crockery 
 plates are sometimes features of the alleged decoration, and 
 tall glasses (exaggerated schooners) of pink and red pulque 
 (like circus lemonade) stand upon the counter at each end. 
 The pulquerias are usually thronged with blear-eyed, sodden 
 male and female degenerates, and they are the foci of much 
 of the crime which shames the intelligent element of the capi- 
 tal. Albeit the intoxicating qualities of pulque are slight, its 
 cheapness (3 to 5 c. a quart) enables the poorest to buy it. 
 The consumers are chiefly the idle and the common laboring 
 classes, to whom it is meat, drink, and a constant stimulus to 
 crime. Thus the very poorest and most ignorant of the city's 
 population — those who stand most in need of education and 
 uplifting — spend 20,000 pesos each day for the 100 or more 
 carloads that come to the city. The Mexican’s opinion of the 
 beverage is expressed in the following lines : 
 
 “£ Sabe que es pulque, — Know you not that pulque 
 
 Licor divino? Is a liquor divine, 
 
 Lo beben los angeles And that angels in heaven 
 
 En vez de vino.” Prefer it to wfine? 
 
 The pulque obtainable fresh at Apam may unite the many 
 qualities ascribed to it by certain doctors and devotees. The 
 manipulation of that, other than the bottled pulque (which is 
 sold in considerable quantities in the capital and is well spoken 
 
HISTORY OF PULQUE 
 
 lxxxv 
 
 of), is said to be at variance with the promptings of hygiene, 
 and inimical to certain accepted ideas of bacteriology. 
 
 History. The Spanish conquist adores found the Aztecs to possess a 
 tribal drink called neutle (pulque). The vice was an inheritance from 
 the Toltecs, received through the tribes which the Aztecs conquered 
 and drove from the Valley of Anahuac. The early Nahuas knew the 
 maguey juice as octli. Pulque or pulchre , is a Chilean aboriginal term, 
 applied to the liquor in some unaccountable way by the Spaniards. 
 The following legend refers to the discovery of pulque: 
 
 “During the reign of Tepancaltzin (8th King of the Toltecs), one 
 Papantzin , a kinsman of the king, observed a field-mouse gnawing a 
 hole in the central bulb of a growing maguey. Securing the curdy 
 liquid which oozed therefrom, Papantzin sent it to the monarch, employ- 
 ing as messenger his lovely daughter Xochitl. The impressionable king 
 forcibly detained the girl and placed her in his harem. From their union 
 was born a child called Meconetzin, or ‘Child of the Maguey.’ The 
 downfall of the Toltecs dated from that epoch. In their thirst for the 
 bianco neutli they neglected the arts — in the exercise of which they 
 were noteworthy — agriculture, and the warlike practices that had ena- 
 bled them to maintain a footing among the barbarous tribes which sur- 
 rounded them. Their virility vanished, and they were driven out of the 
 Valley of Mexico by the first strong tribe (the Chichimecs, about the year 
 1100) that appeared to dispute their sway. In commemoration of the 
 legend many of the pulquerias (p. lxxxiv) call their places La Hermosa 
 Xochitl — in the Toltec tongue, ‘Beautiful Flower.’ ” (Comp. p. 316.) 
 
 Convinced of the prejudicial effects of the drink upon the Indians, 
 and believing that much of the cruelty practised by the Aztecs was 
 traceable to its brutalizing effects, several of the Spanish Viceroys strove 
 to stifle the traffic. The first edict against it was launched in May, 1635, 
 by the Marques de Mancera. The measure received the sustained sup- 
 port of Fray Payo de Rivera , Archbishop of Mexico; of the Conde de 
 Paredes , the Marques de la Laguna , the Conde de Monclova (28th Vice- 
 roy), and many other men of note, but the campaign failed of its 
 purpose. The edict issued June 8, 1692, by the 29th Viceroy, Conde 
 de Galve, resulted in a formidable riot; his palacio was stoned and an 
 infuriated mob burned several public buildings. During the century 
 following, many pamphlets were written on the pernicious effects of 
 ptdgue-drinking. The archives at the Municipal Palace of Mexico City 
 contain many documents which passed between the Viceroys of New 
 Spain, the Spanish King, and the Consejo de las Indias , treating of the 
 terrible vice and its wide-reaching influence for harm. During the reign 
 of the 51st Viceroy, El Conde de Revilla Gigedo (in 1789-94), the annual 
 consumption of pulque in Mexico City was four million arrobas, or one 
 hundred million lbs., and the net revenue to the Crown from its sale was 
 800.000 pesos. 
 
 The Nopal Manso, or Cactus Opuntia, thrives best on the 
 elevated table-land, and it reaches its greatest perfection in 
 the State of Hidalgo. An odd feature of the plant is that each 
 oval pad is a unit from which the entire tree is composed. As 
 it attains age and development the lower internodes harden 
 and produce a false kind of bark before merging into the sem- 
 blance of a tree-trunk. It usually presents a variety of shad- 
 ings, from a deep, greenish-brown at the base to a bright green 
 at the upper terminal pads. When a branch is broken off a 
 bundle of delicate, lace-like fibres is exposed instead of splin- 
 ters and decayed wood. Around the edges of the prickly pads 
 grows a delicious fruit — the Prickly-pear of the American 
 and the Australian, the Indian-fig of the Englishman, the 
 Barbary- fig of the Frenchman, and the Tuna of the Mexican. 
 
lxxxvi 
 
 ORGAN CACTUS 
 
 It is about the size of a duck’s egg, covered with fine prickles, 
 as full of seeds as an ordinary fig, and of a color which ranges 
 from whitish-gray to a beautiful crimson. A peculiarity of the 
 fruit is that it is always cool when plucked, although it 
 may have been taken from a plant growing on a sandy desert 
 exposed to the direct rays of a blistering sun. A cooling drink 
 — colonche — is squeezed from it. During the fruiting season 
 the natives, in certain districts, subsist almost entirely upon 
 the tuna, which is almost 80 % water. 1 
 
 In districts where herbage is rare, and the nopal is plentiful, 
 cattle feed on the pulpy pads — devouring them along with 
 the thorns and stems. The plants make effective hedge-fences, 
 and for this purpose they are widely employed. 
 
 The nopal figures prominently in Mex. history. It ornaments the 
 national banner, and is stamped upon many of the old Mex. coins. For 
 many years the primitive Aztecs wandered southward in search of their 
 traditional nopal , with the snake and eagle, and they are supposed to 
 have found it on the site of the ancient Tenochtitldn (comp. p. clxiv). 
 
 The Organ Cactus ( Cereus excelsus) is common on the 
 wind-swept highlands of the Central Plateau. It attains con- 
 siderable height, is often found in bizarre shapes, and its deep- 
 ribbed, spiny branches usually grow in clusters on a single 
 parent stem — pointing straight upward like naked fingers, 
 with thorns and flowers, in lieu of leaves and foliage. This 
 species has spines as sharp as needles, and saw edges that rip 
 anything with which they come in contact. One can hardly 
 strike the tall, fluted cylinders without striking the thorns. The 
 plants bear purple flowers, and whosoever wins these, deserves 
 them. They are stately figures of the desert regions, with 
 “ lines as sinuous as those of a Moslem minaret and flutings as 
 symmetrical as those of a Doric column.” 2 
 
 The Biznaga, commonly called the barrel-cactus, is some- 
 what rare, and is noted for a thin, short tap-root with an enor- 
 mous upper reservoir in which it stores water. It possesses 
 a most formidable armor of fish-hook-shaped spines that no 
 beast or bird dare penetrate. The different forms of the biz- 
 naga are little more than vegetable porcupines, bristling with 
 
 1 Experts in the Department of Agriculture of the United States have 
 made exhaustive studies of the tuna, and the student will find much to 
 interest him in Bulletin No. 116, The Tuna as a Food for Man, issued by the 
 Department at Washington; and in Bulletins Nos. 60 and 64, issued by 
 the Agricultural Experiment Station, at Agricultural College. New Mexico. 
 
 2 Closely associated with the Mexican cacti is the Cactus Wren 
 (C ampylorhynchus hnmneicapiUus) , a small wren with a grayish-brown 
 back, darker on the head, nearly pure white beneath, with a spotted 
 breast and a white line over the eye. It makes a large, flask-shaped 
 nest of grasses and twigs, lined with feathers, and lays it in the crotch 
 of a cactus. This nest is entered by a covered way, or neck several 
 inches in length. The bird is very sprightly, with a clear, ringing song. 
 Were it not for the nopal, and other species of cacti, the Mexican deserts 
 would be devoid of bird-life. When pursued by hawks, the smaller birds 
 find the thorny covers a safe and always convenient retreat. 
 
PITAHAYA CACTUS 
 
 lxxxvii 
 
 quills or hooks that catch or hold the intruder. In summer 
 they produce a mass of yellow flowers that later turn to orange 
 and then to dark red. 
 
 The Indian method of extracting water from the biznaga is interest- 
 ing. A plant about five feet high is selected, the top is cut off, and a 
 blunt stake is used to pound the white pulp into the standing trunk. 
 This flesh is then removed and water is squeezed from it into a recep- 
 tacle of some kind. Two or three quarts of clear, slightly salty, and a 
 trifle bitter water are secured; to the desert traveller parched with thirst 
 it is more than grateful. Tall cacti stems are deprived of their moisture 
 by being cut down and placed on two stones, one at each end. The 
 heavy plant sags in the middle, and there a small hole is made. Fires 
 are built at each end, the heat drives the water to the centre, where 
 it drips into a pan or bucket placed to catch it. By this simple method, 
 coupled with the knowledge that every cactus plant is a water reser- 
 voir, Indians are enabled to cross so-called desert regions where white 
 soldiers, unequipped with the information, would soon perish. 
 
 The Echino Cactus 1 ( Echinocactus horizonthalonius) , called 
 Peyote in Mexico, and known in the United States as the Globe 
 cactus , as the mescal button, and as Lophophora Williamsii, is 
 one of the most curious among the species. Its effect on the 
 human system is very singular. It is one of the strongest 
 stimulants known. It allays, for the moment, all feelijigs of 
 hunger and thirst; it produces a direct effect on the genital 
 organs and it is a powerful aid to abstinence. 
 
 The Tarahumare Indians (p. 57) and the Huicholes (p. 92) 
 maKe a cult of the plant and use it in their pharmacopoeia 
 and in their religious observances. They undertake long and 
 arduous pilgrimages to secure it, make sacrifices to it, wor- 
 ship it as a demi-god, and consider it a potent talisman against 
 all ills. 
 
 The Pitahaya Cactus ( Cereus pitahaya) is an ever-present 
 feature of the broad plains of Sonora (p. 80) and Lower Cali- 
 fornia (p. 84), and besides growing from one to two and a half 
 feet in diameter, it sometimes reaches a height of sixty feet. 
 It is first cousin to the organ cactus, and it produces a fruit allied 
 to the tuna — soft, sweet, and nourishing. When plucked fresh 
 and cool, at dawn , it is delicious ; with a taste quite different from 
 the fruit plucked at midday, when the sun has shone upon it. 
 It ripens when most needed (at the height of the June dry 
 season), and the harvest lasts about a month. The Mexicans 
 and Indians are so fond of it that servants sometimes desert at 
 this time to secure it. The beautiful macaw ( guacamaya ) 
 revels in it, and in order to secure it, the bird arrives from its 
 migration to southern latitudes when the pitahaya is in bloom. 
 The Indians believe that it comes to see what the harvest will 
 be, for it flies off to the coast, but returns unfailingly in June 
 when the fruit is ripe. The lovely white flowers of the plant 
 
 1 For curious data relating to this cactus, consult Unknown Mexico , 
 by Carl Lumholtz. (Comp. p. ccxl.) 
 
lxxxviii 
 
 AMOLE CACTUS 
 
 are never found growing on the north side of the stem. The 
 plant attains to great perfection in Chihuahua State, in the 
 Tarahumare country (p. 57), and the fruit has a place in 
 the religious rites of the Tarahumare Indians. They gather 
 the fruit with long reed sticks armed with four prongs, then 
 place it carefully in little crates of split bamboo and carry it 
 for miles to sell it to those who prize it. 
 
 Amole (a species of agave) growls in many parts of Mexico, 
 and is known by the generic name of soap-weed, because na- 
 tive soap is made from it. Though scarcely larger than a big 
 pineapple, the amole sends up a gigantic flower-stalk 12 to 15 
 ft. high and from 20 to 30 inches in circumference. One of 
 these huge spikes will bear as many as 20,000 beautiful yellow 
 blossoms, each as large as a tulip : a multitude of humming- 
 birds usually feed upon them. Certain Indian tribes pound 
 the freshly-cut leaves of the amole and use the extracted juice 
 as a poison. Other Indian fishermen crush the leaves, expose 
 them to the sunlight for a few hours, and throw them into 
 a shallow stream and trample upon them ; as a result, the fish 
 become stupefied and many die, but are eaten, as the poison 
 does not affect the flesh. 
 
 The Cochineal Cactus ( Opuntia coccinellifera), described 
 at p. 543, was at one time of great value to the Mexicans, who 
 exported cochineal to the value of millions of pesos. Since the 
 discovery of aniline dyes, the cochineal industry has dwindled. 
 
 The Agave Sisalensis or Henequen plant is indigenous to 
 Yucatan and is described at p. 583. 
 
 The Yucca, or Spanish Bayonet (from Yuca, its Santo 
 Domingo name), a genus of American liliaceous plant famil- 
 iarly called Adam’s Needle, is one of the most stately figures 
 of the desert. Its cream-white flowers are lovely. 
 
 When in full bloom certain of the cacti are very beautiful. 
 
 “What could be more lovely than the waving lightness, the drooping 
 gracefulness of the Lluvia de Oro, the swaying, tossing, well-called 
 ‘shower of gold.’ It is one of the most beautiful of the desert trees, 
 with its white skin like the Northern birch, its long needles like the pine, 
 and the downward sweep of its branches like the willow. A strange 
 wild tree that seems to shun all society, preferring to dwell like a hermit 
 among the rocks. It roots itself in the fissures of broken granite, and it 
 seems at its happiest when it can let down its shower of gold over some 
 precipice. Scarcely less interesting is the Sangre de Dragon (Dragon’s 
 Hlood). Cut or break a twig of this plant, and a red sap like blood runs 
 out. Touch it to the tongue, and it proves the most powerful of astrin- 
 gents. The Indians use it to cauterize bullet wounds. Again no animal 
 will touch it.” (The Desert , by John C. Van Dyke.) 
 
 XI. Mines. Opals. Jade. Turquois. Malachite. Onyx. 
 
 Mines. Mexico, called by Baron Von Humboldt the “ Treas- 
 ure House of the World/’ is one of the most highly mineral- 
 ized regions known. Nature has endowed it wdth mineral 
 resources well-nigh inexhaustible, for albeit vast quantities of 
 
MINES 
 
 lxxxix 
 
 precious metals have been taken from its mines, there seems 
 scarcely any limit to the supply. For years the Republic has 
 figured as the largest producer of silver, and it bids fair soon to 
 rank high among the gold-producing countries of the world. 1 
 The great mining region — the argentiferous deposits of which 
 are fabulously rich — runs from the N. W. to the S. E., follow- 
 ing the direction of the Sierra Madre Cordillera , extending (over 
 1500 miles) from Sonora at the N. to Oaxaca at the S. 
 
 With the exception of Campeche, Tabasco, and Yucatan, 
 every State in the Mex. Republic possesses mines — of which 
 there are some 21,000, that cover 633,213 acres of mineral 
 land and give employment to 500,000 men. Three fourths 
 of the mineral possibilities of the Repub. are said to be yet 
 unexploited; but that they are attracting the attention of 
 capitalists and miners is proven by the fact that upward of five 
 thousand mining claims are registered each year. The greatest 
 gold-mining camp in Mexico, if not on the continent, is at Real 
 del Oro (p. 199) in the State of Mexico. The greatest silver- 
 producing States are Guanajuato, Zacatecas, Durango, So- 
 nora, Chihuahua, Mexico, San Luis Potosf, Hidalgo, Jalisco, 
 Sinaloa, and Oaxaca. Guerrero is rich in gold. 
 
 Many mines and placer-workings were taken over from the 
 Indians by the Spaniards, and the latter opened up many new 
 regions. The first silver taken from a Mexican mine by Euro- 
 peans and sent to a European country came (in 1521) from the 
 still celebrated mines of Taxco (p. 457) in the State of Guer- 
 rero. During the three centuries of Spanish dominion (1521- 
 1821), over three billions of pesos in gold and silver were ex- 
 tracted — almost one third of which came from the wonderful 
 Mother Vein ( veta madre) at Guanajuato (p. 138). According 
 to Mr. W. A. Shaw ( History of Currency ), “by means of these 
 vast remittances of precious metals the discovery of Amer- 
 ica was the salvation and monetary resurrection of the Old 
 World.” The largest silver nugget ever found in Mexico was 
 discovered near a Papago Indian pueblo in Sonora (p. 82), and 
 weighed 2,750 lbs. 
 
 There are upward of one thousand copper-mines in the Re- 
 pub.; the largest group being those at Cananea (p. 71), said 
 to rank third in size in the world. The iron mountain at Du- 
 rango City (p. 100) is perhaps the largest solid mass of iron 
 known. Many of the Mexican States produce beautiful onyx. 
 Queretaro produces the opals (p. xci) for which the Mex. Re- 
 public is famous. The fine turquoises and turquois-matrix 
 come from Zacatecas. The most important mercury deposits 
 (low percentage) are at Huitzuco, some 70 M. south of Mex. 
 City. Lead, zinc, antimony, asphaltum ( chapapote ), marble, 
 coal (anthracite and semi-anthracite), topazes, emeralds, jade- 
 
 1 The annual output of gold is about $35,000,000; silver, $60,000,000; 
 copper, $40,000,000. 
 
xc 
 
 MINES 
 
 ite. nephrite, amethysts, garnets, agates, and minor products 
 are found in many parts of the country. Extensive salt works 
 (evaporation process) are found along the Pacific coast. 
 
 Igneous rocks of almost every geologic epoch form, to a 
 large extent, the superstructure of the Great Central Plateau, 
 where many of the most celebrated mines are located. This 
 great table-land seems to consist mainly of metamorphic for- 
 mations, which have been partly upheaved, partly interpene- 
 trated and overlaid by igneous masses of all epochs, and which 
 are chiefly represented by shales, greywacke, greenstones, 
 siliceous schists, and unfossiliferous limestones. All these for- 
 mations are alike remarkable for the abundance and variety of 
 their metalliferous ores, such as silver, copper, gold, and what- 
 not. The highest ranges are formed mainly of volcanic rocks, 
 such as granites, syenites, diorites, mineral-bearing trachytes, 
 basalts, porphyries, obsidian (p. 423), pearlstone, sulphur, 
 pumice, lavas, tufas, and other recent volcanic discharges. 
 
 From this amazingly prolific region the Toltecs and Aztecs 
 obtained gold and silver, not only from, shafts and galleries 
 sunk at great expense of time and toil, but also from the beds 
 of mountain torrents, and the auriferous sands of the coast 
 streams. Like the natives of Peru, they worked mines that 
 dated their origin from a period so remote that no man knew 
 when they were begun. Of the amount of metal taken from 
 these prehistoric mines there is no record. At the time of the 
 Conquest the vassal states of the Aztec Confederacy paid trib- 
 ute to Montezuma in silver, dug from these old mines, and in 
 “ golden grains found in the rivers, which they cast into bars 
 and made into wonderfully wrought objects.’' According to 
 Prescott ( Conquest of Mexico, vol. i, chap, vi, p. 314), among 
 the gifts which Montezuma’s ambassadors presented to Her - 
 nan Cortes , when he landed at Vera Cruz in 1519, were shields, 
 helmets, cuirasses embossed with plates, and ornaments of 
 pure gold ; imitations of birds and ornaments in wrought and 
 cast gold and silver, a Spanish helmet sent to the capital and 
 returned filled to the brim with grains of gold, and two circular 
 plates of gold as large as carriage-wheels. One, representing 
 the sun, and no doubt denoting the Aztec century, was richly 
 carved with plants and animals, and was thirty palms in cir- 
 cumference; it was valued at twenty thousand pesos de oro. 
 The silver wheel, of the same size, was also richly carved. The 
 amount of gold taken from Montezuma by the Spaniards and 
 sent to Spain is estimated at $7,000,000. 
 
 Little formality and less science were practised by the 
 Spanish miners, and of the 3,000 mines estimated by Hum- 
 boldt to be in operation in Mexico in 1800, not one was worked 
 scientifically; the methods and machinery were so crude and 
 so primitive that Indians and foreign miners to-day make 
 good returns by working over the old tailings thrown out ages 
 
MINES 
 
 xci 
 
 ago. The Crown taxes upon mining, blasting-powder, and the 
 like were so heavy that it was unprofitable to extract ore 
 carrying less than 100 ounces of silver to the ton. The “King’s 
 Fifth ” was collected upon all bullion presented for coinage 
 (comp. p. xiii). 
 
 Apart from those of Sinaloa, Sonora, and Chihuahua, nearly 
 all the historical mines lie on the South-Central Plateau at an 
 elevation of from 5,000 to 10,000 ft. above the level of the sea. 
 The stories of the “ lost mines ” ( minas tapadas) of Mexico are 
 many (comp. p. 82), and some are highly interesting — and 
 improbable. 
 
 A still popular method of reducing silver ore is known as the 
 Patio Process , invented by Bartolome de Medina, a Spanish 
 miner, at Pachuca (p. 422) in 1557. The system, which is 
 economical and effective, is on the principle of amalgamating 
 the metal with quicksilver. The Lixiviation Process, or that of 
 crushing the dry rock and then roasting it in reverberatory 
 furnaces, with salt, is also in vogue. 
 
 For additional information relating to mines, the traveller 
 is referred to the Mex. States described in the Handbook, and 
 to the Bibliography on p. ccxxxix. 
 
 Opal Mines ( minas de opalo) are usually quite deep. The 
 matrix is drilled out with steel drills ( barrenos ), brought to the 
 surface in sacks swung athwart the backs of peon laborers, 
 broken into small pieces with hammers, and sent to the lapi- 
 daries, who polish the stones on grindstones of varying de- 
 grees of fineness. When a rich vein is found and opened near 
 the surface it presents an unusually beautiful spectacle; the 
 rock glistening with myriad rays of colored light. The first 
 stratum, usually about five feet thick, is generally followed by 
 a layer of earth of about the same thickness, and this is, in turn, 
 succeeded by another bed of opal-bearing rock. This sometimes 
 continues to a great depth. The matrix is so hard that dynamite 
 is used to dislodge it, and many fine stones are unavoidably 
 ruined in the blasting process. The Queretaro district (p. 119) 
 is so rich in opaliferous deposits that traces of the mineral can 
 be seen in the stone used roundabout for building purposes. 
 
 As certain of the varieties of opals found in Mexico vary in price from 
 five cents to a thousand pesos each, the traveller unacquainted with the 
 “tricks of the trade” is sometimes easily swindled, and he is therefore 
 cautioned against making expensive purchases of street venders or 
 unknown dealers. Mexico City is the best market for fine opals, and most 
 of the good stones quickly find their way thither. The most reputable 
 dealers sell only “ seasoned ’’ stones, i. e., those which have been tested 
 for flaws, etc. The oxygen in opals tends to freeze easily, and freezing 
 usually cracks the stones. Unscrupulous dealers have been known to 
 immerse cracked stones in oil, which fills the crevices, and when the oil 
 dries out the stones are found to be worthless. Again, a soft opal will 
 scratch easily, and the surface soon becomes dim and lifeless. It is not 
 unusual for venders at railway stations to offer a good-looking stone at an 
 attractive price and substitute a poor one for it just as the train pull3 
 out. Men who offer stones purporting to have been stolen from the 
 
XC11 
 
 OPALS 
 
 mines or from lapidaries, should be regarded with suspicion. The safest 
 stones to buy are the fire-opals, which have hardness of 6 against 5.5 of 
 the other varieties, and these should be bought only of reputable dealers. 
 
 The Opal ( opalo ) , a birthday (October) stone emblematic of 
 Hope and Faith, ranking 6 in hardness (against 10 of the dia- 
 mond) and from 2 to 2.65 in specific gravity, the most prized 
 gem of the ancient Greeks and Romans, is found in many parts 
 of the world (chiefly in Hungary and Queensland), and was 
 accidentally discovered in Mexico, 10 leagues north-east of 
 San Juan del Rio, by an agricultural laborer, in 1835. The first 
 mine was called the Esperanza (hope), and it was not sys- 
 tematically worked until about 1870. 
 
 Opals are composed of silica with from 6 to 12 per cent of 
 water, and are referred to by scientists as “ silex in the soluble 
 state.” They occur in thin, irregular veins of trachytic rock of 
 a reddish-gray color, and of a porphyritic structure; the ma- 
 trix is thickly impregnated with cystallizations, and the vol- 
 canic glass which clings to the stone is usually polished and 
 sold as red-opals, or agates. Many opals are found in the clefts 
 and cavities of old lava, known as andesite. It is supposed 
 that alkaline waters decomposed this rock, and, setting free 
 the silica, deposited it in a gelatinous condition which after- 
 wards solidified as opals. The color of the matrix is apt to vary, 
 and the difference in color usually indicates the class of opal it 
 contains. 
 
 The Fire-Opal (girasol de fuego), the finest opal of com- 
 merce, is usually taken from a grayish-red matrix; it is fre- 
 quently called the “ precious opal ” from the variety and beauty 
 of its coloring. “ It is without a peer; an exquisitely beautiful 
 stone displaying emerald tints upon a basic color of fiery red, 
 and often flashing a fine flame from a rich crimson centre.” 
 The best specimens are the most resplendent of all the differ- 
 ent kinds of opals, and, being almost as hard as the finest 
 Hungarian stones, they are valuable and rare. 1 
 
 Harlequin Opals ( arlequines ) are remarkable for an al- 
 most infinite variety of colors and color-combinations. They 
 are usually distinguished by patches of brilliant and varie- 
 gated tints which change their position and character as the 
 stone is moved. Some show large blotches of color which shift 
 with the moving of the stone, but these seldom show more 
 than two colors at the same time, one being more pronounced 
 than the other. Usually the, colors are broken up into small 
 speckled lights which play as the stone is shifted. Certain 
 stones show a magnificent emerald play with flashes of carmine 
 and a dark, violet-blue — the latter considered a rare and de- 
 sirable color. Others show' a reflection of emerald and green 
 lights combined with a very fine, dark, ultra-marine blue. 
 
 1 One of the finest mines in Mexico, of these uniquely beautiful stones, 
 is worked by the Sonora News Co., referred to at p. 241. 
 
OPALS— AGATES 
 
 xciii 
 
 These colors are produced by structural peculiarities, which in 
 varying degrees diffract the light rays entering the stone and 
 give a prismatic play of colors, and they are not, as is com- 
 monly believed, due to the chemical constituents. The colors 
 are best brought out by a black background, hence dealers 
 usually show them upon a black paper. The brilliancy of the 
 opaline tints is heightened by a moderate heat, but although 
 opals are infusible before the blow-pipe, its intense heat drives 
 off the water and renders them opaque and colorless. 
 
 The beautiful Cloudy (or milk — lechoso ) Opal — 
 
 “ Milky opals that gleam and shine 
 Like sullen fires in a pallid mist ” — 
 
 is found in the whitish porphyries. They are very common 
 in Mexico, and they are not so much sought as the fire-opal. 
 
 The Cat’s-Eye Opal, which exhibits a chatoyant line over 
 the centre of the dome, similar to the cat’s-eye, and which is 
 usually of a bright green color, is the rarest form of opal. 
 
 Agates ( agatas ) and fossilized wood and bone are to be 
 found opalized, and are called “ agate-opals/’ wood-opals, etc. 1 
 
 The Jade (or Jadeite) amulets, masks, beads, labrets, and 
 similar objects, found in ancient Indian tombs in Mexico, 
 make very desirable and attractive souvenirs for the lover of 
 odd things. Aside from being genuine relics of vanished races, 
 they are usually very interesting examples of the skill of the 
 early craftsmen. The Aztecs showed great ability in boring 
 cylinders and ornamental objects of jadeite, rock-crystal, and 
 other hard stones, and no lapidary of to-day can do finer work 
 than the lapidarios of old. 
 
 Most of the jadeite ornaments come from tombs in the 
 State of Oaxaca, albeit some have been found in, and near, 
 the pyramids of San Juan Teotihuacan (p. 425). Many of the 
 celts — usually bored in two places for suspension, as badges 
 of authority — are covered with undecipherable cryptographic 
 inscriptions. Among the many notable examples of the con- 
 summate mastery of the ancient artificers in this material 
 are pieces of jewelry encrusted with jadeite — doubtless used 
 as congratulatory gifts and as talismans. Human teeth, un- 
 doubtedly of high antiquity, have been found inlaid with pea- 
 green jadeite. Axes, chisel-blades (relics of the stone age), 
 
 1 Agate is a variety of quartz, consisting of layers of different colors. 
 It is crypto-crystalline, and is classed as a variegated chalcedony. The 
 colors may be due to visible impurities, as in moss agate, which contains 
 moss-like deposits of manganese oxide or other mineral substances. 
 Agates may be banded or irregularly clouded. In banded variety the 
 colors are arranged in parallel lines, usually wavy or erratic. The banded 
 agate is supposed to have been formed by the deposit of silica from 
 solution in irregular cavities in rocks, the colors being the result of the 
 existing impurities. Agates have commercial value when they are 
 polished and suitable for ornaments and as specimens for cabinets. 
 
XC1V 
 
 JADE 
 
 masks, beads, and many good pieces of this ancient handiwork 
 are still to be found in the antique shops of the capital. 
 
 There is no mention of Jade in European literature before the discovery 
 of America by Columbus. The early Spanish navigators brought back 
 specimens of green stone which were highly valued by the natives of 
 America, and which were worn by them as badges of rank, or as orna- 
 ments, and as a safeguard against certain diseases. The natives sup- 
 posed the stones to possess occult curative properties in renal diseases, 
 and from this circumstance the Spaniards named them (the name first 
 appears in the works of Monardes , a physician of Sevilla, in 1565) 
 Piedras de hijada — hypochondriac, or colic stones. 
 
 Early Spanish writers on Mexico and Central America frequently refer 
 to a certain green stone called in the Aztec tongue chalchihuitl , or 
 chalchivitl , which they say was more highly prized by the Aztecs and 
 Mayas than the emerald itself. Chalchivitl is defined by Molina (Vocabu- 
 lario Mexicano , 1571) as signifying esmeralda baja, or an inferior kind of 
 emerald, while other writers call it madre de esmeralda ; but it can hardly 
 be the emerald proper, as that was called by the Mexicans Quetzalitzli , 
 from the quetzal , or bird-of-paradise ( Trogon resplendens) , and itzli, 
 stone — because of the similarity of the stone to the brilliant metallic- 
 green plumes (worn by the Kings of Mexico and Central America as 
 regal insignia) of this splendid bird. In some parts of Mexico the stone 
 was also called quetzal-chalchihuitl. The Chinese, by a curious coinci- 
 dence, no doubt accidental, derive the name fei-tsui from a kingfisher, 
 the peacock-green plumage of which they often use inlaid on jewelry. 
 
 Bernal Diaz ( Historia de la Conquista) says that among the presents 
 which Montezuma gave to Cortes for the King of Spain, there were some 
 jadeite pieces. Montezuma said, when handing them over, “To this I 
 will add a few chalchihuis of such enormous value that I would not con- 
 sent to give them to any one save to such a powerful emperor as yours. 
 Each of these stones is worth two loads of gold.” 
 
 Juan de Torquemada {Monarchia Indiana^ 1613, vol. ii, p. 521) says 
 that “when a great dignitary died in Mexico his corpse was richly decor- 
 ated for burial with gold and plumes of feathers, and that they put in 
 his mouth a fine chalchihuitl , as a heart. A great law-giver and high 
 priest of the ancient Mexicans was miraculously begotten by a chalchihuitl 
 placed in the bosom of the goddess Chimalma , and if a similar stone is 
 laid upon the tongue of a deceased person it will help the soul to pass 
 the seven ordeals before reaching Quetzalcoatl in heaven.” 
 
 Bernardo de Sahagun ( Historia de Nueva Espana, vol. xi, chap, viii) 
 describes the chalchivitl as green, not transparent, and mixed with 
 white: “They are much used by the chiefs, who wear them fastened to 
 their wrists by cords, as signs of rank. The lower orders are not allowed 
 to wear them. The labret, or chin-ornament ( barbote ) is set in gold and 
 is fixed in the beard of the lower lip, so that it appears to come out of an 
 opening in the flesh.” 
 
 The name jade has been popularly given to several distinct kinds of 
 ornamental stones of a tough, compact nature, although it is scienti- 
 fically restricted to the minerals nephrite — a variety of amphibole, 
 either tremolite or actinolite — and to jadeite, including in the latter 
 term chloromelanite, a variety of jade rich in iron, of dark color and high 
 specific gravity, used for decorative purposes, especially for jewelry. 
 The term is not to be confounded with serpentine or jasper. The word 
 jadeite was coined by the eminent French chemist Damour , in 1863, 
 to distinguish from ordinary nephrite a peculiar kind of jade of granular 
 texture and brilliant tone of coloring, which was found to be the material 
 of some of the most beautiful carved pieces of jade brought to Paris 
 after the sack of the Chinese Summer Palace of Yuan-Mi ng-Yuan in 
 1861. 
 
 Jadeite is a silicate of aluminum and sodium, with a hardness of about 
 7 (or that of quartz), and a specific gravity close to 3.33: it almost al- 
 ways contains, in addition, small quantities of iron, calcium, and mag- 
 nesium. It is a member of the pyroxene group of minerals, and differs 
 
TURQUOIS 
 
 xcv 
 
 from nephrite, which is a silicate of calcium and magnesium and be- 
 longs to the amphibole group. In point of color jadeite shows an almost 
 infinite variety of shades and tints — apple-green, bluish-green, greenish- 
 white, sometimes almost pure white, and white with spots of bright 
 green. The common colors are tones of white and various shades of 
 green. Emerald-green is the most prized color, both for its beauty and 
 its rarity. The small ornaments are usually made of jadeite; the large 
 ones, like axes, masks, etc., of nephrite. They are usually of a dull and 
 wax-like lustre. Some fine specimens of jadeite-encrusted teeth (from 
 skulls found in Yucatan) may be seen in the Peabody Museum at Har- 
 vard University. The National Museum of Mexico City possesses a fine 
 collection. 
 
 The student may consult Investigations and Studies in Jade, by Heber 
 R. Bishop (privately printed, New York, 1906), a superb and beauti- 
 fully illustrated work (in 2 vols.), found only in National Libraries. Also 
 Prescott’s Conquest of Mexico. 
 
 Turquois ( turquesa ), the teuchvitl and the chivitl of the an- 
 cient Aztecs; known to scientists as “ Callaite” ; the Turkey- 
 stone of the 16th century (so-called from its having reached 
 Europe from the East via Turkey) ; was mined in Mexico long 
 before the Conquest. The Mexican turquois is as fine as the 
 famed products of the Nishapur and the Khorassan mines and 
 is celebrated for its beautiful sky-blue color. At the present 
 time the bulk of the world’s supply of fine turquois is drawn 
 from New Mexico and Mexico. In Mexico it is found only in 
 compact form in irregular veins within a matrix. The latter is 
 very attractive, and certain pieces make inexpensive and de- 
 sirable souvenirs. The mass runs in blue veins through the 
 rocks (usually of a reddish color) with now and then concre- 
 tions called nuggets, which afford stones of value. 
 
 Turquois is a birthday stone (December) and is emblematic 
 of prosperity; its hardness is 6, its specific gravity 2, and it 
 has been used as a gem from very early times : it is the favorite 
 jewel of many, and is considered peculiarly suited to blond 
 complexions. It is a hydrous phosphate of alumina, the color 
 being due to a small amount of copper compound, of which it 
 contains (according to different analyses) from two to eight 
 per cent. The proper color is sky-blue inclining slightly to 
 green, but much of it is of greenish blue and green tints. The 
 inferior quality is of a pale, muddy, yellowish green. The blue 
 tint so much prized is often readily altered to green, both nat- 
 urally by exposure to the weather, and artificially by heat; 
 or, when worn, by contact with fatty acids, perspiration, soaps, 
 or perfumes. Ordinary turquois should, therefore, be kept for 
 some time before mounting for jewelry, to see if the color is 
 permanent; and it should then be worn with care, especially 
 as to contact with soaps and perfumes, the oils from which 
 are very apt to alter the color. Intense heat sweats the water 
 out of the stone and crackles it. 
 
 The green varieties of turquois resemble jade (p. xciii), but 
 may be distinguished quite readily from it in several ways: by 
 the lack of toughness ; by inferior hardness ; by lower specific 
 
XCV1 
 
 MALACHITE — ONYX 
 
 gravity (2.6 to 2.8), which is easily determined by weighing 
 or by the Sonstadt solution ; by the texture, which is compact 
 and smooth, with no trace of anything either fibrous or crys- 
 talline (a scraped surface having the perfect smoothness of 
 soap or ivory when cut with a knife), or by the complete ab- 
 sence of cleavage, and by almost uniform opacity. Perhaps 
 the best turquois mine in Mexico is the Santa Rosa (p. lxxxix). 
 The stones are sold by the Sonora News Co. (p, 241). 
 
 Malachite (malaquita) , a hydrous carbonate of copper, 
 rarely crystallized, but often fibrous and massive, with a mam- 
 millary or “ botryoidal ” surface with a specific gravity of 3.75 
 and a hardness of 6, is found all over the world, but rarely in 
 large quantities. It is common in Mexico, and the tourist will 
 be able to secure handsome specimens made up into curios. 
 The color is usually a brilliant green, fighter and darker, fre- 
 quently banded and clouded in different shades. 
 
 Onyx ( onice ) , a chalcedony or chalcedonic quartz consisting 
 of parallel layers (usually curvilinear) of different shades of 
 color, is mined in many parts of Mexico: the most valuable 
 deposits are in the States of Oaxaca and Puebla ; in which 
 latter place it is called “ Puebla marble,” and “ Tecali ” — from 
 the district whence it comes. The name onyx is derived from 
 the Greek “finger-nail” or “veined gem.” The Mexican onyx 
 is actually an aragonite, and is softer than the real onyx. 
 Scientists know the red onyx as sardonyx , the gray as chalce- 
 dony , and the black, green, or brown as onicolo. 
 
 The Mexican onyx is used extensively in the jewelers’ trade ; 
 in the manufacture of small souvenirs (usually on sale in the 
 curio stores), and in the interior decorations of churches and 
 public buildings. As a decorative material onyx is seen to 
 good advantage in the Palacio de Correos (p. 328) at Mexico 
 City, and in the Puebla Cathedral , described at p. 512. The 
 iron deposits which give color to onyx are somewhat affected 
 by temperature changes. The variety without stripes is 
 harder, but is not so handsome as the striped stone. Some of 
 it is so translucent that it is used in lieu of window glass. The 
 Puebla craftsmen fashion the Mexican onyx into many attract- 
 ive shapes — plates, pen-holders, ink-wells, fruit pieces, etc. 
 
 XII. Theatres. Bull-Fights. Cock-Fights. Juego de Pelota. 
 
 Museums and Picture Galleries. Churches. Holidays. 
 
 Theatres ( teatros ) are to be found in most of the Mex. cities ; 
 in the larger play-houses the performance generally lasts from 
 9 to midnight. Comedies (comedian), operas (operas), dramas 
 (dramas), and melodramas (melo-dramas) are popular; German 
 and Italian grand opera is the predilection of the devotees in 
 the capital. In certain theatres short zarzuelas (operettas, 
 
THEATRES — BULL-FIGHTS xcvii 
 
 farces, and the like) please the taste of the middle classes, and 
 in others yet — places where the pieces and the audience 
 change several times during the evening — one may pay by 
 the hour or by the tanda — piece or turn. The theatres of 
 Mex. City are not always crowded, as of the 650,000 popula- 
 tion not more than one quarter can be counted upon to attend 
 plays. 
 
 Tickets are usually bought at the ticket-office ( despacho de 
 boletos ) in the lobby, on entering. Branch offices, so common 
 and popular in the U. S. A. and elsewhere, are not customary 
 in Mexico. Prices vary according to the funcion or espectd- 
 culo. Orquestra or pit ( luneta — from luna — moon) seats 
 range from 50 c. to $4. The best seats are in boxes called 
 plateas or palcos primer os (first), which seat 4-6 persons and 
 which correspond, in location, to the front row of the first 
 balcony in American theatres: prices from $4 to $25, ac- 
 cording to the quality of the play. The 2nd ( segundo ), 3rd 
 ( tercero ), and following tiers of boxes are palcos , the prices of 
 which are lower as the tiers ascend. Above these are the gen- 
 eral seats ( asientos generates or grader ias, 25-50 c.) and the 
 gallery ( galeria , 15-25 c.), usually crowded with the lower class 
 population. In certain theatres there are several rows of seats 
 behind the pit seats, called asientos de anfiteatro. Season 
 tickets ( boletos para la temporada ) are sold at a reduction of 
 from 15 to 25 per cent. 
 
 Moving Picture Theatres ( cines ) are becoming increasingly 
 popular and are displacing many of the old tedtros. See Places 
 of Amusement, p. 244*7. 
 
 The National Theatre, at Mexico City (p. 326c) is one of the 
 finest opera houses in America. 
 
 Bull-Fights. The Gran Plaza de Toros in the Colonia de 
 Condesa, Mexico City (p. 371), occupies a space of 18,500 sq. 
 meters, has a ring diameter of 450 ft. and a seating capacity of 
 20,000 persons — 6,989 more than the largest bull-circus at 
 ; Madrid. Until the construction of this plaza (in 1907), that of 
 Valencia (with a seating capacity of 16,851 spectators) and 
 ; of Murcia (with space for 17,500) were considered the largest 
 structures devoted solely to bull-baiting. The Mexican Plaza 
 de Toros cost $700,000, and was the first to be made of struc- 
 tural steel. The empresa (management) enjoys the sole right to 
 erect bull-rings in the Federal District, and for this privilege 
 the Government receives 15% of the total gate receipts — 
 which on a good day may reach $30,000 or $40,000. Within 
 the enclosure are a chapel, an infirmary, a toril (where the bulls 
 are kept), and many minor departments. The building may 
 be inspected on “off days” by applying to the city ticket- 
 office. A small fee should be given the care-taker. 
 
 The Bull-Ring is of the shape its name indicates ; a huge 
 amphitheatre, consisting of an arena ( redondel ) from which 
 
BULL-FIGHTS 
 
 xcviii 
 
 rise tier after tier of seats. These are separated from the ring 
 by a barrier ( barrera ) about 5 ft. high, usually of wood, behind 
 which rims a narrow passage and a cordrabarrera , which in 
 turn is flanked by one or more other passages. The toreros 
 spring from the arena into this first passage when too hotly 
 pursued by the bull, which either vents its rage on the wooden 
 barrier, or, if it is sufficiently agile, leaps it and pursues its 
 tormentor around the enclosure. The lower row of seats — 
 those nearest the passageway — are called Asientos de Bar- 
 rera and de Contrabarrera. Rising from these are ten or twelve 
 rows called tendidos. Above these, again, are the gradas, 
 which are under cover of the first floor, and are divided into 
 delanteras (front seats) and asientos de grada. Above the 
 gradas, in the upper story, are the palcos (boxes) and the an - 
 danadas. As the crowd on the lower seats is apt to be boister- 
 ous, it is advisable, when there are ladies in the party, to sit 
 either in a palco or in the delantera de grada, as exit is then 
 possible at any moment without attracting attention. 
 
 As the fights take place in the afternoon, when the sun is de- 
 clining, one hah the plaza is in shade, the other exposed to the 
 sun’s glare. The best reserved seats ( localidades de preferencia) 
 are on the shady side, and besides being numbered they are the 
 most expensive. Following these are the regular shaded seats 
 (localidades de sombra) ; visitors should be careful to ask for 
 a boletin de sombra — ticket in the shade : the usual price 
 is from three to five pesos, while a boletin de sol (in the sun) 
 costs from one to two pesos. The lower classes frequent the 
 sol or sunny side, and ladies should never be taken there. The 
 different seats and their prices are detailed in the bills of the 
 play, with the names of the combatants, and the pedigrees and 
 colors of the bulls. 
 
 The aficionados prefer the tendidos (pit) and the lower range, 
 in order, by being nearer, that they may not lose the nice 
 traits of tauromaquia. To catch a torero's hat or cloak tossed 
 up from the ring is an honor greatly prized by them. To be 
 near the barrera , and thus be able to impart an impressive 
 thwack to the bull should he leap the barrier and course 
 through the passageway, delights the lover of the sport almost 
 as much as to be near enough to pelt an inept or clumsy tore- 
 ador with oranges or whatnot. 
 
 The best fights ( corridas formates) are held in the winter 
 season, between Nov. and March. The novilladas (lesser 
 fights) between April and Sept. — the off season. The latter 
 are sometimes referred to as Corridas Econc>micas : the en- 
 trance fees range from one to two pesos , and the bulls are not 
 always of the best class. Consult the daily newspapers. 
 
 The Fights are held under the superintendence of a muni- 
 cipal official called “ presidente,” who gives the signal to start. 
 When he takes his seat in the central box, the band plays and 
 
BULL-FIGHTS 
 
 XC1X 
 
 all the glittering procession of fighters pass in review before 
 him. The entry is unique, marked by a diversity of colors 
 which are very attractive. 
 
 The proceedings open with the appearance of two alguaciles 
 (police-officers of the ring), who emerge from the gate beneath 
 the presidencia (starter’s box) . “ They are excellently mounted 
 on prancing steeds in sleek condition, and are dressed in black 
 velvet breeches, with a short cloak of the same material, and 
 black hats with variegated plumes. Cantering around either 
 semicircle of the ring, they meet at its further side and, dash- 
 ing spurs into their horses, gallop back together, salute the 
 president (of the ring), hat in hand, and disappear within the 
 archway. A minute later they again emerge by the opposite 
 entrance; the band, perched aloft among the andanadas , 
 strikes up a stirring paso-doble, and now begins the pretty and 
 imposing spectacle known as the paseo de las cuadrillas, or 
 march-out of the fighters. The strictest etiquette is observed. 
 Foremost are the alguaciles on their capering stallions, the 
 plumes in the hats nodding in time to the hoofs. Close behind 
 come the three matador es ( espadas) f striding abreast, their 
 trajes de luces flashing splendidly. By a usage which is never 
 transgressed, the oldest to have taken the alternativa, or doc- 
 tor’s degree, so to speak, of bull-fighting, goes always on the 
 left; the next oldest on the right; the latest in the middle. 
 Their glittering capotes de paseo rest upon their left shoulder, 
 but the body of the cloak, passed round the waist from right 
 to left, is caught up and held with the left hand over the left 
 hip, leaving the right arm free. 
 
 “ After the matadores come their banderilleros ; then the 
 mounted picador es. Needless to say, their garb is infinitely 
 plainer than that of the matadores , consisting of the familiar 
 broad-brimmed picador's hat with its pompon ; the short jacket 
 of colored velvet and black braid ; the light yellow leather 
 breeches opening over the boot; the faja, or scarf about the 
 waist, narrow cravat, frilled shirt front, and low waistcoat. 
 Then follow the ring attendants, vulgarly known as monos 
 sabios (wise monkeys), who attend upon the horses, stanch 
 the holes gored in them with pellets of tow, and thwack them 
 to their feet when wounded; and lastly the arrastres , or teams 
 of mules to drag away the fallen beasts, both equine and 
 bovine. 
 
 “ Arriving at a dignified, swinging stride beneath the presi- 
 dential box, all the fighters lift their monteras in honor of the 
 president, who acknowledges the courtesy by lifting his hat; 
 and the procession breaks away. The alguaciles and the teams 
 of mules gallop away out of the ring, and out of sight; so do 
 the picadores, excepting two, who grasp their garrochas (iron- 
 tipped pikes) and station themselves a few yards apart, the 
 first being some twenty yards to the left of the toril. They are 
 
c 
 
 BULL-FIGHTS 
 
 then said to be de tanda ; while those who await their turn out- 
 side the ring are de reserva. The toreros throw their costly 
 capotes de paseo (promenade capes) to their friends among the 
 spectators, to fold and keep for them, and take instead, mata- 
 dores and banderiUeros alike, the well-worn capas of red and 
 yellow percal, faded, as a rule, by long exposure to the sun, 
 and smeared with ominous stains, mementoes of other corri- 
 das, that are patently other than vegetable dyes. The poor, 
 trusting horses twitch their ears in blest unconsciousness of 
 their inevitable doom. The ponderous picador's saddles, with 
 huge bucket stirrups, bring their wasted rumps and withers 
 into more prominent contrast.” Diseased, emaciated, worn 
 out with age and over-work, they are pitiable specimens, in- 
 dubitably deserving of a better fate. 
 
 The fight (< lidia ) is a “tragedy in three acts, lasts about 
 twenty minutes, and each consists of precisely the same rou- 
 tine. From six to eight bulls are usually killed during each 
 ‘funcion ’ of las corridas formates (standard fights) ; occasion- 
 ally another — toro de Gracia — is conceded to popular clam- 
 or, which here will take no denial.” 
 
 “When all are ready” (says Mr. Leonard Williams, Land 
 of the Dons), “ picador es, matadores, and peones, the president 
 waves his handkerchief. A drum and trumpet sound the 
 appointed call which summons the egress of the bull, and one 
 of the alguaciles, reemerging, catches in his hat the key of the 
 toril, which the president also tosses down, decked with rib- 
 bons. A veteran functionary, the buholero, scours across the 
 arena to the alguaciVs horse, catches the key in his montera, 
 and while the other escapes, moves away to the toril, where 
 are the genuine heroes of the hour — the bulls. He inserts 
 the key, opens the door, and retires within the space between 
 the barriers. The passageway is narrow and as the bull rushes 
 through it, an attendant leans over and plants between his 
 shoulders a small keen puntilla (a thin dagger) from which 
 flutter colored ribbons.” 
 
 The public curiosity to see the first rush out is intense. 
 “ With a fiery snort of rage — if you are close enough you can 
 see him blow quite a little cloud of sand into the air — the 
 bull is in the ring, swirls round, sights or smells the two pica- 
 dor es de tanda ; feints at them one after the other, as they 
 lower their garrochas in self-defence; and has put the whole 
 arena behind him in about six seconds. Everything in the 
 semblance of a fighter, except, of course, the picadores, has 
 lightly vaulted the barrera, and is safe in the callejon, or space, 
 some seven feet wide, between the barriers. No! The rrmta- 
 dor, cloak in hand, leaps back again, advances from the bar- 
 rier, and calls to the toro with a quick little cry, ‘ / Hoi, 
 Hoi ! * He darts round angrily, pulls up deadband surveys his 
 enemy, some twenty feet away, who holds his capote in both 
 
BULL-FIGHTS 
 
 ci 
 
 hands, directly in front of his body. To snort and charge at 
 the cloak and the man is the work of a swifter second than 
 was ever told by clock. Where is the bold torero ? in pieces ! 
 Not he. Without moving his feet so much as the literal 
 breadth of a hair, he swings his cloak out to the right with 
 both arms, and the deadly weapons that would transfix a 
 three-inch oaken plank have grazed the golden bobbins on his 
 jacket, and the danger is thirty feet away. The bull, as soon as 
 the violence of his onrush allows him, pulls up, turns, and re- 
 peats the charge, to pass again beneath the enemy’s arm ; and 
 again, and again, till the eye turns giddy at the lightning-like 
 manoeuvre ; and at every turn % the valiant fighter makes that 
 indescribable, graceful bend of his lithe body, and swings out 
 his capa with unerring art. The masterpiece is yet to come. 
 On the bull’s charging for the seventh time, the torero gives an 
 abrupt half-turn, trails his cloak over his shoulder, and walks 
 deliberately away, the toro staring stupidly after him, without 
 attempting to follow. The victory of man over brute intel- 
 ligence is triumphantly declared, amid a rapid tempest of ap- 
 plause, just like the rattle of shingle on a stormy beach. The 
 hero of the ovation, with a modest w T ave of his hand, presses 
 his montera to his head, and seeks new worlds to conquer. 
 
 “ The ice is broken. The toro , snorting and pawing the sand, 
 is spoiling for another duel. Nor has he long to wait. The 
 picadores , while the preceding incident was in progress, have 
 cantered round the barrera , and pull up almost facing him. 
 One of them is ordered to picar ; and the man, arranging the 
 bandage over the right eye of his nag, sets spurs to the already 
 half-frightened beast, and resolutely advances, followed by 
 the impatient exhortations of the multitude, who gibe and 
 jeer without stint, if they suspect him to be funking. ‘ ; Saca 
 mas vara y anda derecho ! 7 (Lengthen your lance and at him !) 
 they yell. 
 
 “ The bull, three yards or so away, sniffs, drops his head, 
 and — half a yard of horn is in the horse’s chest ; both animal 
 and rider rolling over and over, the man, as safety obviously 
 demands, keeping to the side nearer the barrera ; the horse, 
 bleeding profusely from a ghastly hole, and struggling des- 
 perately to rise to his feet, between him and the bull. The 
 bandage has fallen off, and the penco’s eyes are wild and terror- 
 stricken. But there is life and utility in him yet, and while an 
 espada performs the ‘quite , 7 which consists in drawing off the 
 res with a graceful turn of his capa , the ‘wise monkeys’ rush 
 valiantly out from the barrier, and flog him, trembling in every 
 limb, to his feet. The rider curses him, prods him angrily with 
 the garrocha, and remounts. Again the bull is ready, as are 
 the horse and rider. At the second pica the heart is touched — 
 the horse’s, I mean, not the spectators’. The victim, as soon as 
 the shock is over, and the bull is again drawn off, does not fall, 
 
BULL-FIGHTS 
 
 cii 
 
 but the 'picador, who ought to know what is taking place, dis- 
 mounts. He, at least, has felt the death-stroke of the beast; 
 and sure enough, from close behind the top of the fore leg the 
 bright arterial blood begins to issue; at first in little jets, then 
 spouting with the volume of a hose. The stricken animal rocks 
 dully to and fro, and falls prone, twitching his ears and mov- 
 ing his under lip convulsively. A mono sabio relieves him in a 
 leisurely manner of saddle and bridle, plants his foot upon his 
 head, and taking out a small puntilla from his shirt, drives it 
 smartly into the base of the brain and shakes it to and fro. A 
 desperate kick or two ; the eyes grow dim ; the lip drops, dis- 
 closing the grinning teeth; and all is over. The mono sabio 
 extracts the puntilla, wipes it on the poor jamelgo’s hide, and 
 attaching the halter, prepares his neck for the arrastre. Vae 
 victis ! The first of the morituri has fallen, and the populace, 
 intoxicated with carnage, are roaring for fresh bloodshed. 
 
 “The picador, hampered by the gregoriana which covers his 
 right leg, has limped off for a remount, and while a reserva 
 emerges, number one supplies his place. This time the suerte 
 proves more gory still. The toro, the blood from the previous 
 picas trickling from his neck, and staining the fluttering divisa 
 to a uniform maroon, is warming to his work. He dives at the 
 belly of his prey and tears it open through a quarter of its 
 length. The guts, dripping with blood and excrement, fall out 
 and about the sand, and their reeling owner stamps upon 
 them wdldly. A man in front of me points pleasantly to the 
 shining, bleeding entrails. ‘Todos los trastos de lacocina ’ (All 
 the pots and pans of the kitchen) , he remarks ; the neighbors 
 join in his laughter, and the joke passes for a good one. 
 
 “A new relay of cavalry arrives, and the toro is still game. 
 But the picador is strong of wrist, and leaves him heavily 
 castigado, driving the garrocha pitilessly into his shoulder, and 
 holding it there "while men might count a score. The horse 
 is untouched, but the bull, by the time the matador practises 
 the quite on him, is bleeding hard. 1 Buena vara ,’ shout the 
 enraptured onlookers, and the picador, one of a class that earns 
 more tumbles than pesos, touches his castor eho, and rides off, 
 grinning. 
 
 “The president makes the appointed signal, the cornel 
 sounds for the suerte de banderillas, and the cavalry retire 
 The two banderilleros hand their capotes over the barrier anc 
 grasp the banderillas, a pair apiece. These are of ash, rathei 
 over two feet in length, about tw^o thirds of w T hich is decorated 
 with colored paper, cut in narrow strips. At the tip is a solid 
 barb. The banderillero, then, whose turn it is, moves off to meet 
 the res, and finds him standing motionless near the tablas, 
 forming an angle with them. Standing some six yards away, 
 and fully facing him, the banderillero calls to the toro, alter- 
 nately lifting the polos to arms’ length, and lowering them, 
 
BULL-FIGHTS 
 
 ciii 
 
 and rising lightly on his toes. He is now said to be alegrando 
 or ‘ cheering ’ the bull. Finally, when the latter’s attention is 
 sufficiently fixed, he swoops upon him, and describing a part 
 of a circle in order to keep clear of the horns, lifts his arms, and 
 keeping both hands close together, metiendo los brazos, drives 
 the barbed sticks into the tor o' s neck. Our hero has clavado 
 un buen par in the manner which is known as al sesgo, and the 
 feat is greeted with a roar of applause. The two barbs are 
 planted close together, and exactly as the art demands, di- 
 rectly behind the head, neither too far forward nor too far 
 back; and the banderillas , as the toro bellows and paws the 
 ground at the receipt of this additional courtesy, fall grace- 
 fully aslant on either side of his face. 
 
 “The collocation of the second pair, a task pertaining to 
 banderillero number two, is a longer affair. The toro is pre- 
 pared for anything and everything, and as crafty as a Jew. 
 His adversary, attempting the same device as his predecessor, 
 halloes to him and springs as high as heaven, then shifts his 
 ground and repeats the experiment. At length, when the pro- 
 ceedings have lasted rather longer than is opportune, and the 
 spectators are revealing unmistakable signs of boredom, he 
 resorts to treachery. For this purpose he sidles behind his 
 quarry, and making ready the polos and giving an abrupt cry, 
 brings the enemy swinging round upon him, and driving in 
 the banderillas, darts nimbly away upon the other side of the 
 toro's head. This is de media vuelta — half a turn; and being 
 executed como Dios manda (as God commands), is met with 
 renewed applause. Banderillero number one drives in a third 
 pair, de f rente, a trifle abierto, that is, with more space between 
 the palos than should be, and therefore not so unimpeachably 
 artistic as the others, and the toro, with the six, gay-colored, 
 blood-bespotted harpoons dangling from his withers, is ready 
 for the supreme suerte and dissolution. 
 
 “The cornet sounds again, and the matador, who for some 
 little while has been resting by the barrier, advances, estoque 
 and muleta in hand, to just beneath the presidential box. The 
 president raises his hat, the matador his, and holding both 
 sword and engano in his left hand, and emphasizing every 
 period with a flourish of the montera, delivers his brindis, or 
 matadorial speech. The oration, fortunately for the impatient 
 multitude, is not a long one ; in fact, a dozen seconds will have 
 covered it all, when the matador, swinging his montera jauntily 
 round him and up into the tendidos, turns on his heel and 
 strides majestically forward to complete the doom of the 
 toro. 
 
 “The executioner’s first step is to wave off all his men 
 1 ifuera gente!’ an action that is always popular as signify- 
 ing pluck, and professional pundonor. Then, liando el trapo, 
 namely, adjusting the scarlet muleta to a small stick, from 
 
CIV 
 
 BULL-FIGHTS 
 
 the end of which a spike projects and secures the cloth, he ad- 
 vances to within three yards of his opponent and sidles wearily 
 round him, gradually describing almost the complete circum- 
 ference of a circle, and keenly scrutinizing his every move- 
 ment. In these moments you may be sure he is deciding on 
 the nature and even the number of the pases de muleta he 
 means to employ. When his mind is made up and the bull has 
 been suitably circumnavigated, the matador thrusts out the 
 engano on his left, holding it in his left hand and almost brush- 
 ing it against his victim’s nose. He is now said to be empa- 
 pando, or smothering the bull’s face with the red cloth. The 
 toro, dropping his head, charges the muleta. To all appear- 
 ances he is oblivious of the man, who, without moving his feet, 
 raises the cloth, and sweeps it backward, followed by the bull, 
 both bicko and trapo describing with infinite swiftness a small 
 portion of a circle. This manoeuvre is the pase natural, and 
 the matador, always with the same sure-footedness and calm, 
 repeats it no less than seven times. The vigilant, reflexive 
 dexterity of the human, as opposed to the blind, impetuous 
 savagery of the brute, seems to have left the latter completely 
 stunned and silly; but any aficionado will tell you that the 
 toro carries his head too low ; so the diestro gives him a couple 
 of ‘pases por alto,’ lifting the muleta at each sweep over and 
 across the horns, and when he finds him to be sufficiently 
 cuadrado, with fore and hind legs properly set together, and 
 head at the desired elevation, prepares for the volapie. Lifting 
 in his right hand the gleaming estoque to the level of his shoul- 
 der, and aiming, by running his eye along the blade, for all the 
 world as though he were sighting a rifle, at the scientific point 
 on the top of the bull’s neck, with his left hand he extends the 
 muleta beyond his right side, under his sword arm, and perfi - 
 landose with his body, that is, planting himself sideways in the 
 same line with the bull’s length, delivers the thrust at the 
 same juncture that he darts forward, smothering as he does 
 so, the toro’s face with the muleta, and giving the animal the 
 scilida on his right, at the identical instant that he himself es- 
 capes on his left. The estocada, in the hands of so consummate 
 a classic, is naturally perfection’s self, and the only visible 
 vestige of the weapon is the cruz, or hilt, peeping from the 
 flesh, deluged with welling crimson, of the ’victim. Yet even 
 thus it is a matter of a good many moments before the van- 
 quished falls to earth — se echa. First of all the peones dash 
 forward, and throwing out their capotes, whirl him alternately 
 to right and left, but this is resented by the spectators as a 
 violation of fair play, and the matador again steps forth to exe- 
 cute the descabello. Newly confronting his foe, he dazes him 
 by a number of short pases known as de piton a piton, and 
 carefully taking aim, almost by feeling with the point of the 
 estoque for the spot desired, namely, the base of the brain, 
 
BULL-FIGHTS 
 
 cv 
 
 delivers one vicious little dig, and over rolls the valorous but 
 unfortunate cornupeto. The indispensable ‘wise monkeys' 
 harness his stiffening remains for the arrastre, the banderillcis 
 are dragged out, likewise the estoque, the peones withdraw to the 
 estribo, and the incomparable matador , after repeating, this 
 time without rhetoric, his salute to the president, moves tri- 
 umphantly round the ring to the inspiriting strains of a popu- 
 lar tango , and the frenzied acclamations of his worshippers. 
 Quite a warehouse of hats is thrown down to him, and cigars 
 galore. The latter he disdains to grope for, leaving them to an 
 attendant peon ; but he gathers up the headgear, sends it with 
 his own hand spinning back to the proprietor, and even takes' 
 a quarter of a mouthful from a bota, obsequiously lowered 
 from a tendido. For the time being he is the most conspicuous 
 and the most applauded man in the Republica. 
 
 “The general outline of the programme does not vary. Each 
 bull is first of all attacked and weakened by the picadores, then 
 he passes on to the banderilleros, and finally to the espada. Of 
 course the incidents and details vary. If, during a suerte de 
 vara , the picador , through carelessness or funk, or want of 
 skill, leaves his garrocha sticking in the bull’s neck, while 
 the brute is being enticed sufficiently near to the barrier to lug 
 away the projecting shaft, the publico riddle the cowering mis- 
 demeanant with volley upon volley of oaths and ribald epi- 
 thets. Horses, fewer or more as the case may be, will fall and 
 be thwacked again to their feet by the assiduous peones , and 
 gored in every possible manner, until they are ripped to shreds 
 and little of their flesh and nothing of their life remains to 
 them ; and then the teams of the arrastre , to the music of their 
 merry bells, will drag them away and out of sight; and upon 
 the morrow, says your neighbor facetiously, the price of 
 chorizos (sausages) will be cheaper.” 
 
 The course of the corrida includes manoeuvres so many, and 
 so variously executed, that to attempt to describe them all 
 ’would be inevitably to bewilder. Toreros are not unfrequently 
 gored, and the terrible cornadas the fighters get from bulls in 
 the Mexico City Ring prove that suertes not down on the bill 
 may be expected at any exhibition. More than one interna- 
 tionally celebrated matador has met death in Mexico. An- 
 tonio Montes is a case in point. 
 
 History. The Bull-Fight ( corrida de toros ) was instituted by the 
 Moors in Spain (about the 12th century) for the encouragement of pro- 
 ficiency in the use of martial weapons and for the celebration of festal 
 occasions; they were first known (to the Spaniards) as Fiestas de Toros 
 — bull-feasts. In the early bull-fights (which were prerogatives of the 
 aristocracy down to the 16th cent.) the animal was attacked by a gentle- 
 man armed only with the Rejon— a short projectile spear or lance 
 about four feet long. This original form of bull-fight (now only given 
 on grand occasions, in Spain) is called a Fiesta Real — Royal feast. For- 
 merly they were a part of the coronation ceremonial. 
 
 The Cid Campeador was perhaps the first cavalier to descend with 
 
cvi 
 
 BULL-FIGHTS 
 
 the lance into the arena and kill, on horseback, the formidable animal. 
 The Moors, who invented the suerte de banderillas, killed the bull on foot 
 in a form widely different from that of the present day. They carried 
 a cloak over the left arm, and used but one weapon at a time, which they 
 threw, not planted. This was a small barb, or dart, called an azagaya, 
 — javelin. Later, it came to be known as a rehilete,or arpon (harpoon), 
 and is now the banderilla. 
 
 In the early years of the sport accidents were very frequent. History 
 narrates that no less than ten knights lost their lives at a single Fiesta 
 de Toros (in Spain) in 1512. During the Middle Ages kings went into the 
 arena, and the spectacle was the favorite one of the courts, both among 
 the Spaniards and the Arabs, who vied with one another in the bull- 
 arena as they would on the field of battle. 
 
 By the 15th cent, the art of bull-fighting had become essential to every 
 ,< Caballero . The sport continued to make steady progress, though Isabella 
 the Catholic Queen was violent^ opposed to it, and Pope Pius the Fifth 
 (in a Papal Bull of November 20, 1567) “threatened to excommuni- 
 cate all princes who suffered its exercise within their dominions, and 
 forbade Christian burial to bull-fighters who met their death within the 
 arena.” 
 
 Early in the 18th cent, the sport passed from the hands of the aristo- 
 crats into those of professionals (toreros'). It was soon stripped of its chiv- 
 alrous character, and it degenerated into the repulsive butchery of to- 
 day. Professional toreros obtained a definite standing coincident with the 
 construction (1743) of the first Plaza de Toros in Madrid. From that date 
 the corrida became a public spectacle. 
 
 “The modem bull-fight, more or less as now practised, is accredited 
 to the little city of Ronda, high poised among the mountains of Anda- 
 lusia. Here was born, in or about the year 1700, Francisco Romero, 
 the first great exponent of the modern toreo. He invented and prac- 
 tised the suerte de muleta. and first used the little red flag one sees in 
 the hands of the modern matador. He met the bull, we are told, face to 
 face as it charged, after playing it into position with the muleta, and 
 killed it with a single thrust of his sword, a pie quieto (without moving 
 a foot). 
 
 “ Seville, the home of ninety per cent of all the Spanish bull-fighters, 
 soon became a sturdy rival of the Ronda school. The two were entirely 
 distinct. The keynote of the Sevillians was arrojo — daring; of th eRonde- 
 fios serenidad — coolness. The former fought a pie movido, shifting their 
 feet ; the latter a pie quieto — keeping them still. This latter method 
 was undoubtedly the more complete and meritorious. It demanded an 
 equal degree of nerve, and an infinitely greater study of the bull. Where 
 the Sevillians risked, the Rondeilos calculated. These latter were artists 
 who made it their boast to despatch their bulls with elegance and neat- 
 ness, not to jeopardize their lives in break-neck exploits. The Sevillians, 
 on the contrary, aimed at keeping the spectators in a fever by the extra- 
 vagance and even folly of their tricks, executing suertes nowadays never 
 heard of. The salto del trascuerno, or leap across the bull's head, was 
 quite a common item of their programme. So was the salto del testuz, 
 or leap along the bull’s back. 
 
 “A dare-devil of that period was Martin Barcaiztegui (sumamed 
 Martincho ) a cowherd of Guipuzcoa. His feats sowed panic among the 
 spectators. His favorite accomplishment was to mount upon a table, 
 where his legs were closely fettered with massive irons. The whole was 
 then set opposite the toril where the bull was kept and whence he entered 
 the arena. The bull, emerging, sighted the table, covered with a crim- 
 son cloth, and charged it, when Martincho would leap along his back 
 from head to tail, and alight in perfect safety. On a certain occasion, 
 at Zaragoza, Martincho , seated in a chair, killed a bull by a single thrust, 
 using his hat as a muleta. 
 
 “ Pedro Romero, third and greatest of the Ronda family, who was born 
 in 1 754, died in 1 839. at the age of eighty-five, after having killed, during 
 his fighting career of thirty years, 5,600 bulls, the greater part of them 
 recibiendo — a dangerous and crucial but effective method of planting 
 the sword while the bull advances. 
 
BULL-FIGHTS 
 
 evil 
 
 “The indumentaria , or costume of the torero at the middle of the 18th 
 cent, was a plain, buff-colored jacket and breeches, with low shoes and 
 a leather belt. Thirty years later Costillares replaced the belt by a sash 
 resembling that now worn, and later still, in the time of the celebrated 
 Pepe-Ilo (horribly gored and killed in the Madrid Plaza in 1801), the 
 severity of the uniform was further improved into a similitude of the 
 present traje de luces (brilliant dress), but the trimmings upon the jacket 
 were merely of black braid. Some twenty years later this was replaced 
 by the massive gold embroidery which has continued to the present.” 
 
 As Spain is the alma mater of the Mexican tauramachists, or aficio- 
 nados — lovers of the Lidia Taurina — it is quite natural that the spec- 
 tacle should have been introduced into Mexico by the soldiers of Cortes , 
 who erected a bull-ring in the Mexico City Zocalo (p.265) soon after the 
 Aztec city was conquered and long before the corner-stone of the Cathe- 
 dral was laid. “ Bull-baiting in any shape,” says Richard Ford, “is irre- 
 sistible to the Spaniard (and this holds true of the Mexican) ; his hostility 
 to the bull grows with his growth, and the very children play at Toro , 
 just as ours do at leap-frog.” Few grown up-Spaniards (or Mexicans) 
 can pass a bull (hardly a cow) without bullying and insulting him, by 
 waving their cloaks in defiance of el capeo. 
 
 Bull-Fighters ( Toreros , Lidiadores, or Gente de Coleta — 
 they of the little queue) are, as a rule, readily distinguishable 
 from common mortals. Their dress, outside the circus, con- 
 sists of a squat black hat, a tight-fitting jacket which is left 
 unbuttoned and does not reach the trousers; an open waist- 
 coat which displays a finely ruffled shirt-front set with yellow 
 gold studs; two tiny gold studs which take the place of a 
 cravat ; peg-top trousers (usually black or gray) , which fit the 
 buttocks like the tights of a ballet-dancer and which fall into 
 many wrinkles above the shoe-tops ; a tiny pigtail (about the 
 size of a lead-pencil) which falls from, or is looped-up on, the 
 crown of the head ; a massive watch-fob and a variety of other 
 jewelry and personal adornments. They walk with a notice- 
 able mincing gait, speak very rapidly, eat the terminations of 
 their words, and infuse into their conversation and deport- 
 ment a sort of bravado common to Andalusian plebs. Fighters 
 are usually known by some nom de guerre , such as: Conejito — 
 little rabbit ; Gallito — little rooster ; Blanquito — the little white 
 one; Minuto — minute; and similar pseudonyms. In the ab- 
 sence of a Puerta del Sol at Mexico City, members of the craft 
 congregate in certain streets (notably the Avenida 16 de 
 Septiembre) , and the neighborhood usually smacks of them and 
 their agile profession. The house- walls are pasted with an- 
 nouncements ( anuncios ) of coming tides ; with illuminated 
 post-cards showing noted diestros in various attitudes, and 
 with all manner of advertisements having reference to them 
 and appealing for their patronage. The average yearly kill of 
 a popular torero is 1 00 to 200 bulls, according to the number 
 of engagements he fills. 
 
 The profession of bull-fighter is low caste, although “the 
 champions are much courted by certain gilded youths, and 
 are the pride and darlings of all the lower classes. Those killed 
 in the arena were formerly denied the burial rites, as dying 
 
BULL-FIGHTS 
 
 cviii 
 
 without confession.” It is a lucrative profession for the ex- 
 pert matador (killer), but one attended by constant danger 
 while in the ring. ‘ ‘ Not all the practice in the world can render 
 the torero's trade a sinecure. Mistakes are common to human- 
 ity, and a bull often turns out to be other than was antici- 
 pated. Even a slip may prove the matador s undoing. In the 
 actual moment of delivering the estocada (thrust) the matador 
 must achieve both one and other of two objects. He must kill 
 the bull, and avoid being killed himself; the first by driving 
 the sword with proper strength and in the proper direction, in 
 a very limited and un-get-at-able area ; the second, by simul- 
 taneously affording the animal a proper egress with the muleta. 
 Of course this sounds particularly easy, but possibly, with 
 those needle-like horns a couple of inches from your chest, the 
 impression is less exhilarating.” In spite of all precautions, 
 the list of accidents ( cogidas ) in the ring, fatal or otherwise, is 
 a long one. When a fighter, whatever his category, is “ caught ” 
 and dashed to the ground, without the bull’s affording him 
 time to rise, his best chance of escaping with a minimum of 
 injury obviously consists in lying perfectly motionless, face 
 downward. Here, again, is a maxim more easily dictated than 
 observed, yet the presence of mind the average plucky torero 
 retains, throughout so crucial a moment, is quite astonishing. 
 On certain occasions it is possible for a torero to save a com- 
 rade’s life by coleando, or hanging from the bull’s tail, a risky 
 and self-sacrificing act. 
 
 “ Cogidas, though frequent, are naturally not of constant occurrence, 
 but even a slight wound caused by a bull’s horn requires delicate treat- 
 ment, and is predisposed to complications. Apart from the splintering of 
 the horn,i it is almost sure to be covered with grit and sand, or steeped in 
 the blood of diseased horses. Owing, again, to the positions commonly 
 adopted by the fighters in order to perform their work, a cogida is more 
 often than not about the groin or thighs, jeopardizing the femoral artery, 
 the intestine, and the kidneys — the most vulnerable portions of the 
 body.” 
 
 “Not only must the matador be cool, alert, patient, and 
 thoroughly understand the duties of his cuadrilla in order to 
 capably direct their work, but his judgment must be ripe and 
 accurate, his nerve unflinching. He must be impervious to the 
 animadversions of the multitude, from whom he is sure to 
 hear, upon an ‘ off day/ a deal of ribald criticism and insolent 
 censure. Nothing, however aggravating, must put him out of 
 temper. He must trust implicitly to his experience of the dan- 
 gerous beasts he has to kill. He must make his ‘ passes’ close 
 to his enemy without shifting his feet, which is always ugly, 
 and prone to be interpreted as asco or ‘funk.’ He must pass 
 in rigid accordance with the precepts of the game, employing 
 
 1 “ The correct term in toresque euphuism is astas , spears ; cuernos , 
 horns, is seldom mentioned to ears polite, as its secondary meaning 
 might give offence.” 
 
BULL-FIGHTS 
 
 cix 
 
 certain 1 passes/ to correspond with certain indications on 
 the part of the bull, and when he has worked the latter to a 
 proper posture, squarely planted (cuadrado) , exactly facing 
 him, with head at a suitable elevation, and each pair of feet 
 planted closely together, he must drive the estoque home at the 
 proper spot, and provide for his own exit. 
 
 “ The magnificent costume of a matador adds very consider- 
 ably to the brilliance of the spectacle. His glittering attire 
 costs him hundreds of pesos, and consists of the black, curly 
 cap or montera, jacket, waistcoat, and breeches, all three 
 elaborately worked, and heavily loaded with flashing bobbins 
 of gold thread; white embroidered shirt, with narrow wrist- 
 bands and low collar, long, narrow tie, silk sash, two pairs of 
 stockings, and heelless running shoes. All this, together with 
 the gorgeous capote de paseo, or ‘ parade cloak/ completes the 
 outward matador. Just as though he were some theatrical 
 artiste, he is dressed by his criado (servant), who puts him 
 through the lengthy process of drawing on two pairs of tight- 
 fitting stockings, the under pair of white cotton, the upper of 
 flesh-colored silk ; then winding him round and round in his 
 sash — seven times is the approved number — and 1 doing 
 his hair,’ that is, attaching to the natural coleta or diminutive 
 pigtail, twisted up at the back of his head, the mushroom- 
 shaped bunch of black silk known as the ‘mono.’ ” 
 
 A famous matador will sometimes receive from S3, 000 to 
 So, 000 for a single corrida , but from this sum he pays the sal- 
 aries of the three banderilleros and the three picadores of his 
 cuadrilla. 
 
 The salary of a banderillero, who ranks next to the matador, 
 or espada (swordsman), is in absolute disproportion to that 
 of his chief, and it seldom exceeds S50 for an afternoon’s work. 
 “Neither is the risk run by the banderilleros a slight one; for 
 to drive a couple of barbs at a yard’s distance into the hide of a 
 furious and nimble beast, is also an operation of considerable 
 nicety. The banderilleros go right up to him, holding the 
 arrow’s at the shaft’s end, and pointing the barbs at the bull ; 
 just when the animal stoops to toss them, they dart them into 
 his neck and slip aside. The service requires a quick eye, a 
 light hand and foot. The barbs should be placed exactly on 
 each side — a pretty pair, a good match — buenos pares. 
 Sometimes the arrows ( banderillas defuego) are provided with 
 crackers, which, by means of a detonating powder, explode 
 the moment they are affixed in the neck. The agony of the 
 tortured animal frequently makes him bound like a kid, to the 
 frantic delight of the people. 
 
 “A very clever banderillero will sometimes seat himself in 
 a chair, wait for the bull’s approach, plant the arrows in his 
 neck, and slip away, leaving the chair to be tossed into the air. 
 This feat is uncommon, and gains immense applause. The 
 
cx 
 
 BULL-FIGHTS 
 
 public sometimes shout for the principals to banderillear a 
 single bull, generally the fifth, and the maestros not infre- 
 quently concede the favor. 
 
 ‘‘The picadores , who appear to run the greatest risk of all, 
 are subject to hairbreadth escapes and severe falls; few have 
 a sound rib left. They have a long way to fall, and are at- 
 tacked by the bull while he is quite fresh, added to which, if 
 they tumble cd descubierto, on the side of the barrier furthest 
 from it and nearest to the bull, they are in a bad plight, foi 
 a metal or thick leather case is upon their leg, so that they are 
 powerless to rise without assistance. Nevertheless, a picador 
 is seldom killed outright, unless, which rarely happens, his 
 head be cleanly dashed against the barrier. His body is thickly 
 padded, and he generally possesses the ability to fall ‘lightly’ 
 like a cat. The bull often tosses horse and rider in one run ; 
 and when the victims fall on the ground, exhausts his rage 
 on his prostrate enemies, till lured away by the glittering 
 cloaks of the chulos, who come to the assistance of the fallen 
 picador. These horsemen often show marvellous skill in man- 
 aging to place their horses as a rampart between them and the 
 bull. The picador , if wounded, is carried out and forgotten, 
 — los muertos e idos no tienen amigos (the dead and absent 
 have no friends), — a new combatant fills the gap, the battle 
 rages, he is not missed, fresh incidents rise, and no time is left 
 for regret or reflection. 
 
 u The picador wears the broad-brimmed Thessalian hat with 
 its pompon, his legs are cased wdth iron and leather, which 
 gives a heavy look ; and the right one, which is presented to 
 the bull, is the best protected. This greave is termed la mona t 
 or gregoriana , from the inventor, Don Gregorio Gallo” 
 
 The best Fighting Bulls ( toros bravos ) are Andalusian. 
 They are bred by ganaderos (breeders) of world-wide repute, 
 some of them men of wealth and title. Those reared in the 
 vacadas (establishments) of the Duke of Veragua, the Marques 
 de Saltillo, Pablo Romero, Campos Varela, and Sefior Miiira 
 (Spain) have the greatest reputation at present. Some Portu- 
 guese cattle are also imported. When a torero signs a con- 
 tract to appear in Mexican plazas de toros he usually plans 
 to bring a certain number of valiant Spanish bulls with 
 him. 
 
 Every year (usually in the spring) the ganadero holds his 
 tienta , or trial of the fighting qualities of the calves, a cere- 
 mony which is intended to weed the bad becerros from the 
 good, these to be fought in the bull circus, the faulty ones to 
 be sold for killing or agriculture. An intermediate class are 
 those which are fought under the name of rwvillos, by second- 
 rate matador es or novilleros , and not in the corridas formates , 
 but at novilladas (p. xcviii) . These novillas belong to the dese- 
 cho de tienta , the “ rejected in the proof,” but it is not unusual 
 
BULL-FIGHTS 
 
 cxi 
 
 for them to make a very respectable fight, notwithstanding. 
 The tienta can be performed in more ways than one, but as 
 a rule the young animals are driven singly into a yard where 
 a horseman, preferably a picador , aided by a helper afoot 
 with a capote (cape) offers at them with a lance tipped with 
 a very small goad, and considerably shorter than the garro- 
 chas (pikes) employed in the ring proper. If the bull dashes at 
 the horse, ignores the pain of the goad, and returns with spirit 
 to the charge, he will do, and is promoted to the aprobados, 
 or selected candidates. The heifers are also tested, since the 
 mettle of the dam must narrowly concern her offspring, and 
 the semental or stud-bull is sure to be a stately and expensive 
 beast of noble presence and proven lineage. 
 
 The ganadero sells his beasts a corrida at a time, the usual 
 number being consequently four or six or eight, and the price 
 per head, in the case of the choicest Spanish cattle, delivered 
 at the hacienda (ganaderia) in Spain, is about 2,000 Spanish 
 pesetas , about $400 American money, or $800 Mexican. The 
 I huge cage in which they are transported, the marine freight, 
 and the cost of the attendant, and the added expenses when 
 the animal reaches Mexico, bring its cost to about $1,200 
 Mexican silver. The Mexican-bred bulls — among the finest 
 of which are from the haciendas of T epeyahualco , Piedras 
 Negras, Santin , San Nicolas Peralta , and San Diego de los Pa- 
 dres — - cost less than half this sum, but they sometimes lack 
 the bravura (courage) of their Spanish brothers. Some, how- 
 ever, particularly those interbred with imported cattle, are as 
 fiery as any one could wish for. The animals are all numbered, 
 and on the bills their names and colors are given. These names 
 usually refer to some characteristic of color ; some trait or phy- 
 sical defect. A splendid old bull will be known as the Mira - 
 Cielo (star-gazer) ; Cochinito (little pig) ; Golondrino (male swal- 
 low) ; Rabicano (usually applied to a horse with white strands 
 of hair in a dark tail) ; Relamido (prude), and the like. 
 
 Imported bulls require at least three months’ rest after their 
 long journey, to fit them for the ring. When not carried 
 through the city streets in ponderous boxes — not unlike a 
 bathing-machine, but with a lift-up end — they pass through 
 at night, accompanied by cabestros, tame oxen, who keep the 
 wild bulls together with the watchfulness of a collie controlling 
 a flock of sheep. They not infrequently break away and career 
 through the streets, sowing consternation in their path. The 
 day before the fight, the bulls, now in the corral adjoining the 
 toril, are on exhibition, and the unemployed public flocks out 
 to see them, sizing up their good points, just as a book-maker at 
 a race-track estimates the racing qualities of some ‘ dark horse.’ 
 
 “The bulls, variously known as animates, bichos , cormipetos, 
 toros , and whatnot (the public possesses an extraordinary 
 range of names for the cowardly ones), are of several sorts — 
 
CX11 
 
 BULL-FIGHTS 
 
 levantados, the bold and rushing; parados, the slow and sly; 
 aplomados, the heavy and leaden; sanguijuelas (leeches), when 
 they keep the public in suspense, and bueyes de carreta (cart 
 oxen), when they refuse to fight and turn tail. The worst of all 
 are the sly bulls : when they are mairajos, y desentido, cunning, 
 and not running straight ; when they are revueltos — those 
 that stop in their charge and run at the man instead of the 
 flag, they are the most dangerous. The lifetime experience of 
 the torero avails but little with such an animal, and his life 
 hangs in the balance. A bold bull sometimes is cold and shy 
 at first, but grows warmer by being punished. Those which 
 are very active, alegros, ligeros, con muchas piernas ; those 
 who paw the ground — que arahan la tierra, are not much 
 esteemed : they are hooted by the populace and execrated as 
 becerritos (little calves), vacas (cows), and the like. Should the 
 empresa (company), by any ill luck, calculation or lack of it, 
 bring several cowardly bulls into the ring, thus depriving the 
 public of their just rights, pandemonium breaks loose. The 
 people execrate them for ladrones (thieves) and embusteros 
 (fakes) : pound the animals with sticks, pelt the cuadrilla with 
 anything movable, and often go to the extent of wrecking the 
 bull-ring. The authorities force the empresario to return the 
 public’s money, and, as a gentle reminder, fine him $500 or 
 more for having disappointed the assembly. This is not an 
 uncommon occurrence in the smaller Mexican cities.” 
 
 In the last analysis the bull-fight is a curious and pictur- 
 esque spectacle — one no doubt doomed to disappear soon 
 from Mexico. 
 
 On more than one occasion bull-fights have been forbidden 
 within the Federal District, but popular clamor has caused 
 them to be reinstated. At present the laws of many of the 
 Mexican cities and towns forbid them. 
 
 The Liga Anti-taurina (society for the suppression of bull- 
 fights) is engaged in an active propaganda against the alleged 
 sport and it is thought that eventually it will triumph. Many 
 intelligent Mexicans deplore the exhibitions, but view them 
 in the light of a safety valve perhaps necessaty for a certain 
 element of the populace. 
 
 Few Americans are willing to go a second time to see the 
 awful and unmerited punishment meted out to the unfortunate 
 horses — obedient beasts closing a lifetime of hard but will- 
 ing service, and indubitably deserving of a better fate. Some 
 foreigners no doubt go with the unexpressed hope that the 
 fighters may get a taste of the cruelty accorded the animals, 
 and in this they sometimes are not disappointed. For it is a 
 lethal game, and one in which the Law of Compensation works 
 with clock-like regularity. 
 
 Cock-Fighting ( Pelea de Gallos ), a senseless and cruel sport, 
 is usually practised by the less reputable classes and is frowned 
 
JUEGO DE PELOTA cxiii 
 
 upon by the Government. Most tourists will prefer to eschew 
 the sight: those who are interested will perhaps witness the 
 best fights at country fairs, of which almost every provincial 
 town in the Republic has one or more annually. Impromptu 
 cock-fights are daily occurrences in many Mex. towns. Game 
 cockerels are the prized possessions of many Mex. families 
 of the ignorant class, and they are to them what razor-back 
 swine are to the Georgia Cracker and hounds to the Ken- 
 tucky mountaineers. 
 
 The Juego de Pelota, an interesting Spanish ball game said 
 to have been introduced into Mexico by the Basques, and 
 very popular among Spaniards, is something like tennis, and 
 “ h^LS its nearest analogue in the pallone of the Italians.” It is 
 played in large halls called frontones (seating capacity about 
 1500), from the high front wall, frontis, against which The ball 
 ( pelota ) is thrown. The side wall, which is 74 meters long, 
 is called derecha, and the rear wall, against which the ball 
 rebounds, is rebote. The cement floor where the players stand 
 is cancha, and the strip between this and the seats, or locali - 
 dades, is contra-cancha. The professional players ( pelotaris ) 
 are usually Basques or Navarrese, who receive from $250 to 
 $1200 a month salary. They wear a kind of cestus on the 
 right hand, attached to a leathern gauntlet, bound on with 
 thongs, and are noted for unusual agility, considerable endur- 
 ance, and no mean skill. The balls are of rubber, usually cov- 
 ered with leather, like tennis-balls, and weigh about 4 oz. 
 They are cast from the cestus against the end wall to rebound 
 and be caught by the opponent; failure to catch them in the 
 cestus scores in favor of the adversary. The two players near- 
 est the frontis are Delanteros, the two in the rear Zagueros. 
 The serve is termed el sdque ; a good one being limpio (clean) , 
 a bad one, sucio, or dirty. The performance or funcion is usu- 
 ally composed of two games with a score of 30 and 35 re- 
 spectively ( partidos d 85 tantos), between two pairs of players 
 (the colors of one couple being blue, the other white) , and of 
 two quinielas d 6 tantos — two short games in which one couple 
 among six players wins. Betting is freely indulged in; men 
 wearing red caps pass among the crowd and register bets 
 (apuestos) , and the house serves as stake-holder and reserves 
 10% (diez por ciento) for its profit. There is also a betting- 
 stand, like that at a race-course, where the “house” is the 
 book-maker ; and where the visitor may pick his combination 
 (applied to the quiniela). invest two pesos or more, and stand to 
 lose them or to gain twenty or more pesos. On week days 
 there are usually three performances (Tues., Thurs., and 
 Sat.), from 9 to 12 p. m., and one on Sunday from 3.30 to 
 9 p. m. General entrance fee, $1.25; with reserved seat, $2.50. 
 Ladies will prefer the palco primero (6 seats for $8), or first 
 
CXIV 
 
 MUSEUMS — CHURCHES 
 
 gallery, where there is immunity from being hit by the 
 ball. 1 
 
 Museums and Picture Galleries are generally open (free) on 
 everyday but Saturday (cleaning day), between 10 and 4. 
 Those of Mexico City (p. 265) are the best in the Republic. 
 Outside of the National Capital there are but few picture gal- 
 leries worth seeing. As a rule each State has, in the Capital 
 City, a Museo del Estado (usually located in the Palacio del 
 Estado) devoted to state products and antiquities. The travel- 
 ler can spend his time to better advantage inspecting the Na- 
 tional Museum at Mex. City. Fees are unnecessary. Certain of 
 the country churches possess pictures worth seeing, and these 
 are described in their proper places in the Handbook. 
 
 Most of the Mexican Churches are open all day (free) ex- 
 cept from 12 to 3. They are always open early in the morning 
 (6 to 10), and at this time the attending natives may be stud- 
 ied to good advantage. Non-parochial churches, wherein the 
 worship differs from that of parroquias, are usually closed for 
 the day at 10 a. m., excepting Sundays, when they are open all 
 day. Travellers will do well to plan their visits accordingly, as 
 the sacristan opens the doors somewhat grudgingly if aroused 
 from his noonday siesta, and the operation may entail delay 
 and a fee. Saturday is not a good day to visit churches, as they 
 are usually cleaned on this day to be ready for the Sunday 
 services. Tactful strangers will be careful not to disturb the 
 worshippers by talking during the services, passing in front 
 of the high altar while others are praying before it, or by show- 
 ing contempt or a lack of consideration for the Catholic cere- 
 monials. No man will fail to remove his hat when entering a 
 church, and all will remember that the house is open for rest, 
 meditation, and prayer. As fees are never exacted in Mexican 
 churches (it being forbidden), and as strangers are freely per- 
 mitted to inspect objects of interest, sometimes even during 
 services, well-bred persons will feel it their duty to conform as 
 nearly as possible to the few requirements. 
 
 The visitor will find the naves and aisles of some of the 
 churches blocked up with boarding and scaffolding, and many 
 months sometimes elapse before an uninterrupted view of the 
 interior is obtained. Many of the churches built by the Span- 
 iards are so old as to require almost constant repairs ; when 
 these are undertaken the order of the decoration is not infre- 
 quently changed. It is the prevailing fashion to “ renovate ” 
 them, sadly to the detriment of the fine old altars and cor os. 
 The native stone-cutters are adepts in the art of chiselling de- 
 signs on w T ork already in position, and this often accounts for 
 
 1 Certain historians hold the belief that pelota (the Aztec tlaihiyotentli) 
 was introduced into Spain (from Mexico) by Hernan Cortes. Consult La 
 Ciudad de Mexico , by Jose Maria Marroqui, tomo iii, p. 185. 
 
CHURCHES 
 
 cxv 
 
 the modern enrichments the critical travellers will observe 
 on piers, architraves and whatnot whose basic decorations 
 belong to older orders. The Byzantine order is the favorite 
 with Mexican ecclesiastics of the present school. 
 
 It is the custom to hang or paste ex-votos on the doors and 
 outer walls of Mexican churches, and various notices invoking 
 pater-nosters (or aves) for the repose of the souls of departed 
 friends: advertisements soliciting alms or referring to forth- 
 coming functions at other churches, and exhortations and 
 death-notices, are usually to be found on church facades. 
 These sometimes mislead the visitor regarding the name of 
 the church — to be sure of which he should always ask the 
 sacristdn. Religious tracts, silver or wax objects to be used 
 as votive offerings, ribbons purporting to give the size of the 
 virgin’s head, or of that of some particular santo or santa : 
 photographs of holy personages, prayer-books, and such, are 
 usually offered for sale at the church atriums or just within 
 the entrance. There is usually a tallow-chandler’s place hard 
 by, where candles 1 ranging in size from five inches to as many 
 feet are sold to the faithful. Wheedling beggars of both sexes 
 are often permitted to solicit alms, search their dirty garments 
 for indiscriminating and nimble fleas, or to replace loathsome 
 bandages on disgusting wounds within or near churches. Pick- 
 pockets ( rateros , comp. p. lxvii) also ply their trade in churches, 
 and the traveller should be constantly on his guard against 
 them. 
 
 The claptrap, meretricious display resorted to in certain 
 Mex. churches which pander to the bad taste and imagination 
 of Indian parishioners, is not always to the liking of the en- 
 lightened bishops, who issue synodals opposed to it : the prac- 
 tice still flourishes, however, in the remote towns. 
 
 As a general rule, the student (and particularly the ecclesiolo- 
 gist) should carefully inspect the metropolitan church of each 
 See, as it will usually be found to furnisli the type of the minor 
 collegiate and parochial churches within the diocese: “and 
 although a general homogeneous style marks architectural 
 periods throughout the Republic, yet architecture, like dia- 
 lects and costume, has its localisms and provincialisms, which 
 are apt to be pronounced in Mexico.” While some of the 
 minor churches are noteworthy for the trumpery character of 
 their ornamentation, — particularly those favored by Indians, 
 — many are rich in historical interest, beside being attractive 
 from an architectural viewpoint. 
 
 For a better understanding of Mexican churches the follow- 
 ing data and technical terms may be found useful. 
 
 A Cathedral (Spanish = Catedral) “ is the roof to protect 
 
 1 Candles ( velas ) to the value of ten thousand pesos a month are said 
 to be used in the churches of the Mexican Republic. 
 
CXV1 
 
 CHURCHES 
 
 and the walls to enclose the cathedra , the chair of the bishop — 
 the throne which that high officer occupies for certain occa- 
 sions of ecclesiastical ceremony.” The proper term is cathe- 
 dral-church. Such a building is not necessarily large or splen- 
 did, but those found in most of the large Mexican towns are, 
 as a rule, larger than the other churches. The cathedrals gen- 
 erally have a Camilla (chapel), fitted up as a parish church, 
 attached to them, and called Sagrario (sanctuary, tabernacle), 
 of which the Sagrario Metropolitano, at Mexico City (p. 290), 
 is an example. Many of them have also another, called Capitta 
 Real (royal chapel) — because high personages are buried 
 there — in each of which separate services are performed by 
 separate establishments of clergy. 
 
 Parochial ( parroquial or la parroquia) or parish churches, 
 presided over by a padre (priest) , are features of all Mexican 
 towns, even the small Indian pueblos. They generally face or 
 flank the Plaza de la Constitucidn or central square, and they 
 are often mistaken for cathedrals. 
 
 Collegiate Churches ( colegiatas ) differ from cathedrals 
 only in the ecclesiastical organization. They are usually found 
 in the larger towns. 
 
 Sanctuaries ( santuarios ) are churches or chapels wherein 
 are enshrined figures or images of celebrated santos or santas, 
 such as the Collegiate Church or Santuario de Nuestra Sehora 
 de Guadalupe (p. 397). They differ but slightly from the ordi- 
 nary parroquia , but they are usually held in higher esteem, as 
 places consecrated to some alleged miracle-working object. 
 
 Convents ( conventos ), hundreds of which were suppressed 
 by the Reform Laws, exist in but few places in Mex. They 
 have lost their original status and are now only religious 
 schools or hospitals under strict Government surveillance. 
 
 The large churches ( iglesias grandes) are generally in the 
 form of a Latin cross ( cruz latina) : the arms of the cross form 
 the transepts ( crucero ). Above this rises the dome ( cimborio , 
 cupula, media-naranja) , oftentimes painted within, and cov- 
 ered on the outside with colored tiles ( azulejos ). The nave 
 (nave) is flanked by piers (columnas, pilastras), whence spring 
 the roof ( boveda ) . The piers are oftentimes draped with damask 
 or velvet hangings ( colgaduras ), w'hile streamers in the na- 
 tional colors — emblematic of Government sovereignty over 
 the Church — pend from the high dome or from some point in 
 the interior. The lateral chapels ( capillas later ales) , open on the 
 aisles (alas) — of which there are ordinarily two — and flank 
 the nave. In some of the cathedrals the choir (coro) follows 
 the Spanish fashion and is placed in the middle of the nave 
 (because of its suitability to the Romish ritual), blocking it 
 and destroying the view (vista) from the entrance (entrada) 
 to the high altar. The coro is lined with stalls (sillas) , and the 
 seats (silleria del coro) are often beautifully carved ; as are also 
 
CHURCHES 
 
 CXVll 
 
 the chorister-book desks ( atriles ) and the lectern ( facistol ). 
 Where the coro is placed in the nave, the back, or tras-coro, is 
 customarily occupied by n chapel dedicated to Nuestro Sefior 
 del Perdon, and called Camilla del Perdon. The sides of the 
 choir ( respaldos del coro) are generally adorned with pictures 
 
 — sometimes with a small altar. The handsomely carved 
 organ-case of cathedral choirs is oftentimes noteworthy. In 
 the smaller churches the coro usually occupies the organ loft, 
 above the main entrance ( entrada principal ) . In certain cathe- 
 drals there are two organs ( organos ), one above the entrance, 
 the other (used only on special occasions) behind the high 
 altar. Just inside the doorway of churches is a stoup ( pila ) 
 which contains the holy water ( agua bendita). The crypts 
 ( cryptas ) are underground vaults where bishops and other 
 ecclesiastics and notables are buried. Because of the moist 
 sub-soil, crypts are not as common at Mexico City as elsewhere. 
 
 The High Altar (altar mayor) oftentimes fills the entire 
 end of the nave, and is usually the most attractive feature of 
 the church. When located in the apse, it is generally backed 
 by a resplendent Churrigueresque or Baroque retable ( retablo ), 
 with many miniature paintings and figurines, and much gilded 
 work. Certain Mexican cathedrals have fine stained-glass win- 
 dows in the east end of the nave, and the morning light (sun- 
 rise) effect is beautiful. On special occasions the altar mayor 
 
 — which is usually adorned with statuary, elaborate cande- 
 labra, etc. — is decked with embroidered coverlets: at such 
 times the vestments worn by the officiating clergy are beau- 
 tiful and costly. A massive silver railing ( barandilla , comulga - 
 torio) not unusually encloses the high altar. On passing the 
 high altar Catholics always bend the knee or cross them- 
 selves, since the Incarnate Host (Ostia or Purisima ), in the 
 form of the Consecrated Wafer, is always placed thereon: in 
 order not to offend, the considerate Protestant will manifest 
 an outward respect for this custom. This altar in Roman 
 Catholic churches usually faces east, where the Star of Beth- 
 lehem rose. Many Mexicans remove their hats when passing 
 the entrance to a church, or when they hear the church bells 
 ring. 
 
 The church pulpits (pidpitos) are often several in number — - 
 usually of onyx, marble, or wood, quaintly carved or gilded. 
 The chancel (cancel) is the huge wood structure, resembling 
 a storm-door, just within the church entrance. The presbi - 
 terio is the platform whereon mass is said. In certain cathe- 
 drals the high altar occupies this platform and is reached by 
 a series of gradas or steps. 
 
 Churches are often surrounded by a long stone platform 
 which, if ascended by steps, is called a gree (grado). That por- 
 tion directly in front of the entrance is the atrium (atrio). 
 The Mexican coat-of-arms is customarily placed above the 
 
cxviii CHURCHES 
 
 main entrance; and above this is a flag-pole from which the 
 national flag ( bander a , pabellon) floats on certain occasions. 
 The towers ( torres ) are frequently left unfinished to disarm 
 the evil eye, and to serve as a constant pretext for begging 
 pious contributions for their completion. 
 
 Many of the altars and pictures in churches are concealed 
 by curtains (cortinas) , which should not be drawn without the 
 proper permission. This can usually be obtained from the 
 sacristan ( sacristan ), who rarely demands a fee, but who never 
 refuses one. According to a current Mexican proverb the 
 average sacristan “does not know enough to bless himself” 
 — no saJbe persignarse — and visitors should not expect trust- 
 worthy information from his kind. A sacristan may be em- 
 ployed in a church for years without knowing, or caring, to 
 what santo it is dedicated, and also be totally ignorant of the 
 church’s historic associations. The names of paintings or paint- 
 ers will, as a rule, be totally unknown to him. He is usually 
 strong on milagros (miracles) , but wofully short on facts. Good 
 nature is, however, often his redeeming feature, and the travel- 
 ler in Mexico will rarely find a disobliging or crusty sacristan. 
 
 The life-size devotional images found in most Mexican 
 churches are replicas of originals which became very popu- 
 lar in Spain in the early years of the 16 th cent. They may 
 be divided into two groups — Roods (figures of the Saviour 
 crucified) , and figures of the Blessed Virgin and of various 
 Saints. The first are, as a general rule, sanguinary and repug- 
 nant, representing the Redeemer in attitudes of great physical 
 pain, crowned by exaggerated thorns and bleeding from real- 
 istically ghastly wounds. It was formerly the custom to carry 
 these figures, during Holy Week, at the head of street proces- 
 sions ; on which occasions the ignorant populace worked itself 
 to a high pitch of religious frenzy. The statues of the Virgin 
 vary from life-size to those of a small doll. Almost every 
 church possesses one or more images or figures of the Virgin, 
 often gaudily dressed, and so covered with jewels (usually 
 false) and tinsel, that nothing but the face remains visible. 
 Certain of the famous Mexican shrines, notably Guadalupe , 
 Cholnla, Amecameca, Tlaxcala , etc., contain greatly reverenced 
 paintings or carved figurines. In certain churches it is cus- 
 tomary to worship a lay figure of Christ, called the Santo 
 Entierro , or Holy Interment : the figure is usually clad in 
 voluminous petticoats, placed on a framework resembling a 
 trundle-bed, and is wheeled about the church, now stationed 
 at one chapel, now at another. Only the head and feet (the 
 latter oftentimes of ivory with white toe-nails) of the figure 
 are visible and these are kissed to a high polish by the osten- 
 sibly devout. “ This is the most extreme point,” says an au- 
 thority, “ to which the degradation of the fine arts can reach.” • 
 
 The zealous but oftentimes bigoted friars who ruthlessly 
 
CHURCHES 
 
 cxix 
 
 destroyed the early Indian manuscripts and idols, professing 
 to believe them works of the devil, lost no time in replacing 
 them with their own divinities in wood or plaster, and these, 
 with singular inconsistency, they worshipped with even 
 greater fanaticism. 
 
 Good music (military) is more often heard in Mexican plazas 
 than in the churches, where it is of a purely devotional char- 
 acter. The Gregorian Chant ( canto Gregoriano), popularized 
 by St. Gregory the Great (b. 540, d. 604), is employed in cer- 
 tain of the Mexican churches, to the exclusion of other music. 
 The choristers ( coristas ) are men or boys ; women are excluded 
 from the choirs. The Mexico City churches of San Francisco, 
 La Profesa , Santa Brigida and the Basilica of Guadalupe have 
 good choirs and fine organs. The Protestant Church choirs 
 are, as a rule, volunteers, and though the music is good, it is 
 not as noteworthy as that of professional choirs elsewhere. 
 
 In the vestries or Sacristies ( sacristias ) of some of the 
 churches are interesting relics (reliquiae) and pictures. The 
 old carved Spanish chests ( estantes ), in which the vestments 
 ( vestuario ) are kept, are sometimes very large and fine. The 
 magnificently embroidered vestments make excellent souven- 
 irs. Before the Reform Laws nationalized the Church pro- 
 perty, some of the sacristias were veritable museums of rare 
 pictures, silver-plate, vestments, and a wealth of ornaments 
 and relics acquired by the Church. Some of these sacristies, 
 notably that of the Cathedral in Guadalajara, that at Mexico 
 City, and at Puebla, are well worth visiting. Many of the 
 splendid pictures once possessed by the Church have been 
 exported, appropriated by Government for the National 
 Academy of Fine x\rts, or sold to dealers in antiques. — Many 
 Mexican dwellings possess private chapels, or sacrariums, and 
 those in the homes of the rich are often very sumptuous. 
 
 For reference to Church Festivals, see below: for Church 
 Architecture, see p. cxxviii. 
 
 Holidays {dias de fiesta) are frequent and popular. Of the 
 131 holidays in the year (counting the 52 Sundays), 52 are 
 saint’s days ( dias de santo), 15 solemn feast days, 3 holy days 
 (church), and six family feast days. More than half the popu- 
 lation observe them all, and on certain of them the laborers 
 drop work, and by becoming intoxicated render themselves 
 unfit for work for several days afterward. Mexico has its 
 blue Monday, known as San Lunes (holy M.), which many 
 employees utilize to recover from the effects of Sunday dissipa- 
 tion. Government offices, banks, and business houses in gen- 
 eral close (sometimes for the forenoon only) on many of the 
 accepted holidays, and the traveller will save himself time and 
 annoyance by considering them when forming his plans. The 
 national military holidays, and the more formal church fiestas 
 
PHYSIOGRAPHY 
 
 CXXl 
 
 religious street processions, the clergy are less zealous in such 
 matters, and the attendance is not so great as formerly. The 
 Easter-tide celebrations are, however, still conducted with 
 great pomp. A typical Mexican fiesta is that of St. Peter and 
 St. Paul {Pedro y Pablo) in June, on which day the devil 
 (diablo) is supposed to roam abroad to tempt the unwary. 
 Children look forward to this day, as they are usually the re- 
 cipients of toy swords, pistols, and similar gifts. 
 
 An interesting Church ceremony is that of the Cuarenta 
 Horasf or exhibition of the H ostia or Consecrated Wafer , in 
 the different churches for 40 hours; when the same spiritual 
 benefit may be obtained by praying before it, as by an actual 
 pilgrimage to St. Peter’s (at Rome). As many of the Church 
 fiestas are movable, the traveller is referred to the news- 
 papers for dates and minor information concerning them. 
 In addition to the above, some States have special local 
 holidays. 
 
 During many of the feast-days and holidays the hotels are 
 apt to be uncomfortably crowded, and lodgings should be ar- 
 ranged for in advance. 
 
 XIII. Physiography : Area. Boundaries. The Mexican 
 
 States. Government. Army and Navy. Mountains. Lakes. 
 
 Rivers. Gulf of Mexico. 
 
 La Republica Mejicana — often called Old Mexico — ex- 
 tends from north latitude 14° 30' to 32° 42', and from 12° 18' 
 46" of E. longitude to 18° 6' 15" of longitude W. of the Meri- 
 dian of Mexico City, or between 86° 46' 8" and 1 17° 7' 8" west 
 of Greenwich. It is bounded on the N. by the U. S. A., on the 
 S. by Guatemala, on the E. by the Golfo de Mexico , and on 
 the W. by the Pacific Ocean. It has a coast-line of 6000 miles, 
 and a superficial area of 1,958,912 sq. kilom., or 766,000 sq. 
 miles. Its greatest length, mainly represented by the gigan- 
 tic dorsal ridge of the Sierra Madre, is 1970 M. in a straight 
 line from the northwestern extremity of Lower California to 
 the southern border of the State of Chiapas. Its maximum 
 breadth, from E. to W. on the line of N. latitude 26°, is 
 about 750 M. and its minimum, at the Isthmus of Tehuante- 
 pec, 140 miles. 
 
 The Rio Grande (big river) represents a part of the dividing 
 line between Mexico and the United States, but the unstable 
 character of this river, and its persistent efforts to change its 
 course, occasion many international discussions. New Spain 
 once included all the territory lying between N. latitude 15° 
 
 1 This spectacle and privilege was first introduced at Valencia in 1697, 
 having been established at Rome in 1592 by Clement VIII. It is a rever- 
 sal of the custom of the pure, primitive Church, which almost concealed 
 the sacramental emblems from all except the initiated. 
 
CXX11 
 
 AREA 
 
 and 42°; by the treaty between Spain and the U. S. A. (Feb. 
 22, 1819) the northern boundary wsls placed at the mouth 
 of the Sabine River, in Texas ; by the Treaty of Guadalupe, 
 Feb. 2, 1848, the dividing line was fixed at the Rio Grande. 
 Prior to this treaty the area of Mexico was 1,650,000 sq. miles, 
 but the U. S. A. gained over half this territory and an addi- 
 tional 100,000 sq. miles. By the “ Gadsden Purchase ” Conven- 
 tion (1853) the U. S. A. secured a further addition of 45,535 
 sq. miles. Mexico stands fourth, on the American continent, 
 in its possession of territory/ being somewhat smaller than the 
 U. S. A. (including the Dominion of Canada), Brazil, and 
 the Argentine Republic. 
 
 The main body of the Mexican Territory is a vast table- 
 land, a distinct geographical region, traversed by extensive 
 mountain chains of remarkable heights. These mountains 
 {Sierra Madre or Mother Range), a continuation of the Cordil- 
 lera of South America, trend northwesterly from the Isthmus 
 of Tehuantepec and have but a moderate elevation in the 
 southern States of Chiapas and Oaxaca. But farther north 
 the mean altitude is 9,000 ft. above sea -level, and two peaks, 
 Popocatepetl and Orizaba, rise to great elevations: the latter 
 forms the culminating point of Mexico. At the 21st parallel 
 the Cordillera becomes very wide, and divides itself into three 
 ranges. The eastern branch runs to Saltillo and Monterey; 
 the western traverses the States of Jalisco and Sinaloa, and 
 subsides in northern Sonora; while the central ridge extends 
 through the States of Durango and Chihuahua, forming the 
 water-shed of the northern table-land. The range decreases 
 in elevation going northward. In these cross- ridges (due to 
 igneous action), thrown out from the longitudinal system, are 
 many volcanoes; nine exceeding 10,000 ft. and twenty or 
 more rising above 4,000 ft. (comp. Hits, and altitudes). 
 
 The great plateau {mesa) is about 1,500 M. in length, by 530 
 in breadth, with a mean height of 6,000 ft. above the sea- 
 level: it is known as La Mesa Central de Anahuac, and it is 
 widest in the latitude of Mex. City. The surface is cut up into 
 numerous barrancas (ravines), some of great depth. Two passes 
 afford outlets to the eastward; one at Jalapa, now traversed by 
 the Interoceanic Rly., and through which Cortes built a road 
 during the Conquest : and one at Saltillo, at present utilized by 
 the National Rlys. Through this pass the American soldiers 
 climbed to the plateau during the Mexican War. The central 
 plateau is subdivided into four minor mesas: Toluca, with a 
 mean elevation of 8,570 ft. ; Actopan , with a mean of 6,450 ft. ; 
 Ixtla, 3,320, and the Valley of Mexico, 7,470 ft. 
 
 Configuration of the Coast. The Atlantic coast line is 
 about 1,600 M. long, and the Pacific (and Gulf of California) 
 
BOUNDARIES 
 
 cxxiii 
 
 about 4,200. The eastern coast is extremely fertile. The most 
 important ports are Vera Cruz, Tampico, Progreso (in Yuca- 
 tan), Campeche, El Carmen, Frontera, Coatzacoalcos (Isthmus 
 of Tehuantepec), Tuxpam, and Matarnoros. Vera Cruz ranks 
 highest, with Tampico next. The western coast is fertile and 
 possesses some splendid harbors. Chief among them are Aca- 
 pulco and Guaymas ; the latter, according to Mex. geographers, 
 one of the safest harbors on the globe. Manzanillo is of consid- 
 erable importance, and Salina Cruz, the Pacific terminus of the 
 Isthmian Route, is perhaps destined to become as celebrated 
 as Port Said. Pacific coast ports of minor importance are 
 Agiabampo, Topolobampo, Altata, San Bias, Las Penas, Cha- 
 mela, Zihuatanejo, Puerto Angel, Tonala, and San Benito. The 
 Pacific coast is healthier than the Atlantic. The country con- 
 tiguous to both is low ; but the land rises gradually toward the in- 
 terior. The flat region of the eastern tierra caliente has an average 
 breadth of 65 M. : that of the western varies from 40 to 70 M. 
 Earthquakes ( terremotos , temblor es) are somewhat frequent. 
 
 “We are accustomed to consider Mexico as lying entirely 
 south of the United States, and as entirely hot and tropical; 
 but nearly one half of the area is north of the southernmost 
 points of the U. S. A. Furthermore, one half of its area, even 
 much of that extending into the tropics, is cool and temperate. 
 
 “ Mexico lies at the meeting-place of two zones, — the tem- 
 perate and the torrid; and from its geographical position, 
 combined with its varying altitudes, possesses a greater vari- 
 ety of soil, surface, and vegetation than any equal extent of 
 contiguous territory in the world. Basking in the sunshine of 
 the tropics, her head pillowed in the lap of the North, her feet 
 resting at the gateway of the continents, her snowy bosom 
 rising to the clouds, she rests serene in the majesty of her 
 might. She guards vast treasures of gold and silver, emeralds 
 and opals adorn her brow, while the hem of her royal robe, 
 dipped in the seas of two hemispheres, is embroidered with 
 pearls and the riches of ocean. 
 
 “ Mother of Western civilization! cradle of the American 
 race! a thousand years have been gathered into the sheaf of 
 time since her first cities were built. When the Norsemen 
 coasted our northern shores, she had towns and villages, and 
 white-walled temples and palaces. When the Pilgrims landed 
 on Plymouth Rock, a hundred years had already passed since 
 the soldiers of Cortes had battled with the hosts of Montezuma. 
 In no country in the world can you pass so rapidly from zone 
 to zone, — from the blazing shores of the heated tropics to 
 the region of perpetual winter, from the land of the palm and 
 vine to that of the pine and lichen, — for in 12 hours this can 
 be accomplished, and the traveller may ascend a snow-peak 
 with the sands of the shore still upon his shoes.” ( Travels in 
 Mexico , F. A. Ober.) 
 
CXX1V 
 
 THE MEXICAN STATES 
 
 STATES AND TERRITORIES OF THE UNITED MEXICAN 
 STATES 
 
 (Estados y Territories de los Estados Unidos M exico.no s.) 
 
 States and T. 
 
 Abbreviations 
 
 Area in sq. kilom. 
 
 Pop. 
 
 1. Aguascalientes 
 
 Ags. 
 
 7,644 
 
 105,000 
 
 2. Campeche 
 
 Camp. 
 
 46,85o 
 
 86,542 
 
 3. Cniapas 
 
 Cnis. 
 
 70,524 
 
 360,599 
 
 4. Chihuahua 
 
 Cni. 
 
 227,488 
 
 32 7.800 
 
 5. Coahuila 
 
 Coah. 
 
 161,550 
 
 297,000 
 
 6. Coiima 
 
 Col. 
 
 5,587 
 
 65,120 
 
 7. Durango 
 
 Dgo. 
 
 98.470 
 
 370,294 
 
 8. Guanajuato 
 
 Gto. 
 
 29,458 
 
 1,061,724 
 
 9. Guerrero 
 
 Gro. 
 
 64,756 
 
 479,205 
 
 10. Hidalgo 
 
 Hgo. 
 
 23,101 
 
 605,000 
 
 11. Jalisco 
 
 Jai. 
 
 82,503 
 
 1,153.891 
 
 12. Mexico 
 
 M4BX. 
 
 23,957 
 
 934,463 
 
 13. Michoacan 
 
 Mich. 
 
 52,261 
 
 '931,000 
 
 14. Morelos 
 
 Mor. 
 
 7,184 
 
 160,500 
 
 15. Nuevo Leon 
 
 N. L. 
 
 62,998 
 
 400,000 
 
 16. Oaxaca 
 
 Oax. 
 
 91,664 
 
 985,000 
 
 17. Puebla 
 
 Pueb. 
 
 31,616 
 
 1,150,000 
 
 18. Queretaro 
 
 Qro. 
 
 9,215 
 
 232,389 
 
 19. San Luis Potosl 
 
 S. L. P. 
 
 65,583 
 
 600,000 
 
 20. Sinaloa 
 
 Sin. 
 
 87,231 
 
 296.701 
 
 21. Sonora 
 
 Son. 
 
 199,244 
 
 221,682 
 
 22. Tabasco 
 
 Tab. 
 
 28,094 
 
 160,000 
 
 23. Tamaulipas 
 
 Tam. 
 
 84,394 
 
 218.948 
 
 24. Tlaxcala 
 
 Tlax. 
 
 4,132 
 
 172,315 
 
 25. Vera Cruz 
 
 V. C. (also Ver.) 
 
 75,651 
 
 981.030 
 
 26. Yucatan 
 
 Yuc. 
 
 91,201 
 
 314,087 
 
 27. Zacatecas 
 
 Zac. 
 
 63,386 
 
 462.190 
 
 28. Territorio de Baja 
 
 
 
 
 California 
 
 B. C. 
 
 151,109 
 
 47,624 
 
 29 Territorio de Tepic 
 
 (now Nayarit) 
 
 29,211 
 
 150,098 
 
 30. Distrito Federal 
 
 D. F. 
 
 1,200 
 
 850,219 
 
 For the purposes of civil administration the Mexican Re- 
 public is divided into a Federal District, 27 States and 2 
 Territories, known as the Estados XJnidos Mexicanos. The 
 States are free and sovereign in all matters pertaining to their 
 internal administration, their government being vested in 
 the State Government, State Legislature, and State Judicial 
 Power. For convenience the States and Territories are classi- 
 fied as follows, according to their situation : — 
 
 Central States: Federal District, Aguascalientes. Du- 
 rango, Guanajuato, Hidalgo, Mexico, Morelos, Puebla, Quere- 
 taro, San Luis Potosf, Tlaxcala, and Zacatecas, with an area 
 of 372,4<S0 sq. kilometros. 
 
 Gulf States : Campeche, Tabasco, Tamaulipas, Vera Cruz, 
 Yucatan, and its adjacent Territorio of Quintana Roo, 323,610 
 sq. kilom. 
 
 Northern States: Chihuahua (largest, with an area of 
 nearly 90,000 sq. miles), Coahuila (which once comprised 
 Texas), Nuevo Leon, and Sonora, with 658,032 sq. kilom. 
 
 Pacific States: Colima, Chiapas, Guerrero, Jalisco, 
 Michoacan, Oaxaca, Sinaloa, wdth the territories of Baja 
 
GOVERNMENT 
 
 cxxv 
 
 (Lower) California, and Tepic (or Nayarit); the combined 
 area measuring 629,037 sq. kilom. 
 
 These vast possessions represent the most highly mineral- 
 ized region on the globe. In some of the States, three harvests 
 are annually secured. There are 52 varieties of mammal 
 quadrupeds, 203 varieties of fowls, 50 kinds of humming-birds, 
 353 species of birds, 77,000 (catalogued) coleoptera, 43 classes 
 of reptiles, 13 batrachians, and a greater variety of plant 
 life than is known to exist in any other country. 
 
 The present Constitution of Mexico, promulgated Feb. 5, 
 1917, and subsequently amended, declares that the Mexican 
 Republic is established under the representative, democratic, 
 and federal form of government, composed of states free and 
 sovereign in everything relating to their internal administra- 
 tion, but united in one single federation in accordance with 
 the principles set forth in the said Constitution. The Su- 
 preme Government is divided into three coordinate branches: 
 Legislative, Executive, and Judicial. The legislative power 
 of the nation is vested in a general Congress, consisting of 
 two Chambers, the Deputies, and the Senate. The Chamber 
 of Deputies is composed of representatives of the nation 
 elected every two years by the Mexican citizens and in the 
 proportion of one Deputy for every 40,000 inhabitants, or 
 fraction over 20,000, the term of service being two years. 
 The requisite qualifications are similar to those of other 
 countries. The Senate consists of two Senators for each State 
 and the Federal District, chosen in the same manner as the 
 Deputies, and subject to certain limitations of age, etc. 
 
 The Congress has two ordinary sessions annually — the 
 first, which may be extended 30 days, beginning on Sept. 
 16 (the great national holiday) and ending on Dec. 15, and 
 the second, which maybe prorogued for 15 days, convening 
 on the 1st of April and adjourning on the last day of May. 
 
 The Executive Power is lodged in a single individual, known 
 as the President ( presidente ) of the United Mexican States, 
 who is elected indirectly by electors chosen by the people. 
 There is no vice-presidente. The official procedure is similar 
 to that of the United States, excepting that the president’s 
 position is even more difficult, if such a thing be possible. All 
 the conflicting interests of a widely flung country of several 
 climates and many different races — each with different 
 aspirations — come to him for favorable solution — and in 
 each case the solution must be agreeable to all! 
 
 The judicial power is vested in the Supreme Court of Jus- 
 tice and the District and Circuit Courts. The Government of 
 the States is divided into the same branches as the General 
 Government. The States are divided politically, as a rule, 
 into districts governed by a jefe politico , or a prefect, who is 
 
'CXXV1 
 
 MOUNTAINS — LAKES 
 
 responsible to the governor — gobernador. The minor divi- 
 sions are municipalidades ; the local authority being an ayun- 
 tamiento, corresponding to the town council in the U. S. A. 
 The main clauses of the Constitution, 'with respect to the 
 rights of men, are similar to those of other advanced coun- 
 tries. Aliens enjoy the civil rights belonging to Mexicans, but 
 they can be expelled (Article 33) from the country if they 
 prove to be pernicious to the Government. 
 
 This article has acquired an international fame. It has been 
 applied to many foreigners who proved themselves too active 
 in Mexican political affairs, not a few of them Americans; in 
 such cases they are usually referred to as having been “ thirty - 
 threed The LTnited States might well adopt, and appty, a 
 similar article to alien strikers, propagandists, and other such 
 foreign vermin. 
 
 The Army ( ejercito ) is composed of regular and auxiliary 
 troops of the reserve; the strength of the former is fixed by 
 law at 30,000 men, that of the reserve at 28,000, and that of 
 the second reserve at 150,000. The infantry is armed with 
 Mauser rifles of the pattern of 1901, 7mm. calibre, and with 
 “Porfirio Diaz” rifles; the cavalry with carbines of the same 
 pattern. Schneider rapid-fire mounted guns are used. The ef- 
 fective strength of the army in time of war is given at 3,500 
 officers, 120,000 infantry, 20,000 cavalry, and 6,000 artillery. 
 At present the regular army establishment is made up of 
 sections quartered at different points in the Republic. 
 
 The Navy ( marina de guerra) is modest, and was established 
 simply to meet the requirements of coast patrol necessary to 
 a country at peace with all. The personnel of the navy con- 
 sists of some 150 officers and about 350 men. 
 
 Mexico is a land of High Mountains ; it is estimated that 
 there are 156 mts. of a volcanic character scattered through 
 the mt. ranges of the Repub. The following are the highest: 
 
 Name Height 
 
 Orizaba or Citlaltepetl (p. 496) 18.225 
 
 Popocatepetl (p. 463) 17,782 
 
 Iztaccihuatl (p. 464) 16,060 
 
 Xinantecatl, or Nevado de Toluca (p. 199) 15,000 
 Matlalcuevatl, or Malintzi (p. 497) 14,740 
 
 Ajusco (p. 434) 13,612 
 
 Nauchampatepetl (p. 504) 13,403 
 
 V'olcan de Colima (p. 186) 12,782 
 
 Pico de Tancitaro (p. 224) 12,653 
 
 Cerro de Patamban (p. 224) 12,290 
 
 Zempoaltepetl (p. 541) 11,965 
 
 Los Llanitos (p. 145) 11.013 
 
 Pico de Quinceo (p. 224) 10,835 
 
 Gigante (p. 145) 10,653 
 
 States 
 Vera Cruz 
 Mexico 
 
 Mexico and Puebla 
 
 Mexico 
 
 Tlaxcala 
 
 Federal District 
 
 Vera Cruz 
 
 Jalisco 
 
 Miehoacan 
 
 Oaxaca 
 
 Guanajuato 
 
 Miehoacan 
 
 Guanajuato 
 
 Lakes. There are many lakes ( lagos ) in Mexico, and most of 
 them are high among the mountains or on the great central 
 plateau. As a rule they are beautiful sheets of water, amid at- 
 
GULF OF MEXICO 
 
 cxxvii 
 
 tractive surroundings. The chief lakes are Chapala (described 
 at p. 152); Patzcuaro (p. 213); Cuitzeo (p. 225); Texcoco (in 
 the Valley of Mexico, p. 244); Zirahuen (p. 226); Yuriria- 
 pundaro (p. 145) ; Zipimeo and Tecacho (in Michoaean, p. 
 224); and the Laguna de los Caimanes (p. 188). 
 
 Very few bays indent the coast. Among these are Ascen- 
 sion, Espiritu Santo , and Chetmul, on the Yucatan Peninsula; 
 Manzanillo, on the Pacific; and Magdalena and others in 
 Lower California. The east coast is broken by extensive la- 
 goons ( lagunas ) like that of Terminos described at p. 569. 
 The great Gulf of California separates the peninsula of that 
 name from the main portion of Mexico. The only peninsulas 
 are Lower California and Yucatan. Some islands of minor 
 importance lie off the coasts. 
 
 The Mexican River System is neither varied nor extens- 
 ive. The rugged configuration of the country converts most 
 of the rivers into impetuous torrents, which quickly drain the 
 surface of the table-land and form innumerable waterfalls as 
 they plunge downward to the tierra caliente, on their way to 
 $ the- sea. E^ r en the longest rivers are navigable for but a short 
 distance. Shallow draught steamboats ply inland on some of 
 the southern rivers — the Usumacinta, the Coatzacoalcos, etc. 
 Sand-bars obstruct the mouths of nearly all the rivers empty- 
 ing into the ocean, and over these bars but three or four feet of 
 water is found at low tide. The best known river (1,644 M. 
 long) is the Rio Grande del Norte, which forms a part of the 
 boundary-line between Mexico and the United States. 
 
 The Gulf of ( Golfo de) Mexico, an arm of the Atlantic 
 Ocean, is bounded on the N. by the United States and on the 
 S. and W. by Mexico. It is oval in form: its greatest length is 
 from E. to W., about 1,000 miles; from N. to S., about 800 M.; 
 area about 700,000 sq. M. It has a continuous coast-line of 
 about 3,000 M. Its maximum depth is about 12,715 ft., and 
 within the basin, exclusive of the submerged coastal plain, the 
 average depth is about 9,000 ft. The outlet of the Gulf is on 
 the E. between the peninsulas of Yucatan and Florida, a dis- 
 tance of about 400 M. The Yucatan channel opens into the 
 Caribbean Sea, and the Florida Strait enters the Atlantic. 
 
 The temperature of the Gulf is from 8° to 9° higher than in 
 the Atlantic in the same latitude. The temperature at the 
 point of greatest depth is 39J° C. The chief current is the 
 Gulf Stream (a name applied to it by Benjamin Franklin), 
 which enters the Gulf through the Yucatan Channel, circles 
 the interior, and passes out through the Florida Strait. The 
 basin off the Mexican coast sinks rapidly to the submarine 
 plain, and a short distance from the shore reaches the maxi- 
 mum depth. The Bay of Campeche is the largest indenta- 
 tion. The level of the Gulf is thought to be a trifle higher than 
 
ARCHITECTURE 
 
 cxxviii 
 
 that of the Atlantic Ocean, which may account for the great 
 velocity of the stream (from 60 to 120 miles per day), one of 
 the strongest on record. 
 
 XIV. Historical Sketch of Art in Mexico “before and after the 
 Conquest 
 
 Architecture. 1 — (l The architecture that grew up in Mexico 
 with the Spanish Conquest and colonization of the country 
 has qualities that justify an effort to make lovers of art in the 
 world at large better acquainted than they have been with its 
 more important examples. It furnishes the most extensive 
 illustration of the transfer to the soil of the New World of a 
 notable phase of depictive art. It is by no means an over- 
 statement to say that in Mexico there is to be found more 
 architecture of a monumental character than in all other parts 
 of the western hemisphere. The reasons for this are to be 
 found in the enormous wealth of New Spain, particularly in 
 the development of its marvellous mineral resources; the 
 comparative tranquillity of the country throughout the 
 nearly three centuries of Spanish rule, the abundance of* 
 building material that lends itself to expression in substantial 
 and permanent form, and a corresponding scarcity of material 
 that encourages slight, crude, and necessarily temporary con- 
 struction, and the dominance of ideas, political and religious, 
 that naturally found realization in rich and impressive shapes. 
 
 “ The Provincial-Mexican work, as it maybe called, has its 
 chief interest in a sort of forceful picturesqueness, mainly re- 
 sulting from the heavy masses worked up out of a material 
 like adobe, whose expressive capacity is necessarily limited to 
 the production of broad, general effects. 
 
 “ So extensive was the architectural activity in Mexico 
 throughout the historic periods of the Spanish-Colonial occu- 
 pation, so prolific in results, so general, and — for this contin- 
 ent — so unexampled in its lavish employment of the dec- 
 orative arts, that it might be easy for a student of its phases 
 to subject himself to the charge of over-enthusiasm, of an 
 overestimate of its qualities. These qualities reside largely in 
 strongly impressive effects, — such as a monumental domina- 
 tion of environment, a union with, and accentuation of, the 
 fascinating elements of landscape and climate, inexhaustibly 
 picturesque and enchantingly spectacular. Classic in funda- 
 mental derivation, and possessing markedly Oriental attri- 
 butes, this architecture is freely romantic in its development 
 — often most waywardly so. In these traits, of course, it is 
 thoroughly Spanish; as, indeed, it is Spanish practically 
 throughout. But the foreign flavoring imparted to home-de- 
 
 1 Spanish Colonial Architecture in Mexico , by Sylvester Baxter (Boston, 
 J. B. Millet & Co.). 
 
ARCHITECTURE 
 
 CXX1X 
 
 rived essentials in the colonial parts of an imperial domain 
 is customarily distinctive ; as in the present instance. 
 
 “ A merit of this architecture, and a very high one, is the 
 frankly organic character of the structural work, freely con- 
 fessing itself in all its functions. A closely related and com- 
 plementary trait, likewise an acquisition of Spanish archi- 
 tecture from the Orient through the Arabs, is the universal 
 concentration of ornament at a few salient points. 
 
 “ The contrast between the plain and the decorative parts of 
 the typical monumental edifices in Mexico is of the strongest 
 description, producing, in the height of emphasis thereby at- 
 tained, an extraordinary vividness of effect. The transition 
 is immediate, the demarcation between the plain and the dec- 
 orated surfaces being as abrupt as that between sea and shore 
 — the former, as a rule, kept absolutely devoid of all orna- 
 mentation; the latter decorative in the extreme. The huge 
 bulk of the structure looms above its surroundings in a 
 mass of rude masonry almost cyclopean in its rough-hewn 
 character, like a gigantic monolith — a great block of stone 
 that seems akin to a cliff carved by the elements. At certain 
 points on this mass there is an efflorescence of rich ornament, 
 much as Nature in places clothes the rock-face with a luxuri- 
 ance of foliage and flowers. 
 
 “The ancient Aztec stone-carving is marked both by an 
 excellent technique in the handling of most refractory material 
 and by a bold freedom in design, with a large sweep in flowing 
 movement as a conspicuous trait. 
 
 “ The earlier structures in Mexico, erected in the first genera- 
 tion succeeding the Conquest, had little architectural char- 
 acter. Utility was the sole consideration. The early ecclesias- 
 tical edifices were built under the supervision of the Francis- 
 can friars, who were the pioneers of the Church in New Spain. 
 These churches in various parts of the country have a rudely 
 massive character, with a look of austere severity, frowningly 
 sombre. They are commonly distinguished by battlements 
 that suggest defensive functions, and are of an easily recog- 
 nizable type that might be termed * Early Franciscan/ A 
 noteworthy survival of this work is the old Franciscan church 
 at Cuernavaca. 
 
 “ The churches of this primitive period are characterized 
 more by Middle-Age styles than by the Renaissance. A form 
 of ribbed vaulting, reminiscent of the Gothic, is commonly 
 employed. The great church of San Francisco at Cholula 
 is fundamentally Gothic in type. On the other hand, the curi- 
 ous Camilla Real , or Royal Chapel, also at Cholula, likewise 
 over a century later in date and built to accommodate a vast 
 concourse of Indian worshippers, was suggested by the Mesdjid 
 al-Djdmi , the great mosque of the Moors at Cordoba (Spain) ; 
 having a similar plan, with sixty-four large round col- 
 
cxxx ARCHITECTURE 
 
 limns supporting the numerous little domes that form the 
 roof. 
 
 “ The Free Renaissance and its subsequent decadent mani- 
 festations dominated architectural taste in Spain during the 
 periods of greatest activity in the fine arts in Mexico, where 
 the architecture of the land took shape accordingly. This 
 accounts for the universal prevalence in Mexico of a character- 
 istic feature of Renaissance. 
 
 “ The Dome, one of the noblest and most impressive forms 
 of architectural expression, is the predominating architectural 
 characteristic of the country. Mexico is peculiarly a land of 
 domes. Outside of the Orient, probably no other country in 
 the world has so many domes — domes in the truest sense of 
 the word, arched of solid masonry. When nearly every Indian 
 village in central Mexico has its domed church; when not a 
 few small towns, so little known that they have no place on 
 the general map, are to be seen clustering about a group of 
 several domes so lordly that they would form a boasted land- 
 mark in any of our large cities, it will be seen that it is no 
 exaggeration to say that domes are to be found in that country 
 literally by the thousand. 
 
 “ A common name for the dome, in Spanish, beside cupula 
 and cimborio, is la media-naranja, the half-orange. The dome 
 made its appearance in some of the very earliest Mexican 
 churches, and speedily became an almost universal feature, 
 appearing to some extent in secular architecture, as well as 
 religious. While the hemispherical shape commonly marks 
 the type, the lines of Mexican domes vary greatly, and are 
 often distinguished by exquisite delicacy in effect. Differences 
 in architectural detail, in ornamentation, and in color lend 
 a fascinating diversity to this predominant feature of the 
 country. The earlier domes are more likely to be rather low, 
 and somewhat depressed in form ; in later periods a tendency 
 toward original lines is manifest. The base is almost univers- 
 ally octagonal. The most common form has the arch spring- 
 ing directly from the level of the roof, with a dormer window 
 in each section of the dome. Very frequently these dormers 
 are so treated as to give the effect of a regular base for the 
 dome, corresponding to a drum. In the City of Mexico this 
 manner of t reatment is illustrated in the dome of San Hipo- 
 ' lito and that of San Fernando ; and in the two lower domes 
 of the San Francisco group ; while in the upper dome of the 
 latter we have a good instance of the frank segregation of the 
 dormers. It is not uncommon, however, to have a genuine 
 drum, as in the dome of La Santisima Trinidad and of the 
 Cathedral of Mexico. Almost invariably the domes in Mexico 
 are single in construction, having one shell and following the 
 same lines within and without, while the interior is lighted 
 both from the windows of the dormers, or of the drum, and 
 
ARCHITECTURE 
 
 cxxxi 
 
 of the lantern. An exception to this rule is the dome of 
 banta Teresa la Antigua, in Mexico City. This dome, which 
 has an interior shell, is of modern construction, having been 
 built to replace the one designed by the first professor of 
 architecture in the academy of San Carlos, Antonio Velasquez. 
 
 Another very general architectural feature in Mexico is 
 the free use made of tiles, particularly Glazed Tiles, in dec- 
 orative surface treatment. This, like the dome, is of Oriental 
 origin, brought to Spain by the Arabs who, in turn, acquired 
 the art from Persia, where it was carried to a remarkable 
 degree of perfection. Whether the art is of Persian or Chinese 
 origin may be questioned. The covering of domes and lan- 
 terns with glazed tiles is common throughout Mexico, and 
 in some locations wall surfaces are similarly treated/ The 
 rich effect of color, the dazzling reflections, the sparkle, the 
 luminous glow produced by these tile-covered domes and 
 towers glittering under the tropical sun, against the deep blue 
 u ^ cloudless sky, set gem-like in a glorious landscape, can 
 hardly be imagined by those who have not been subjected by 
 w °* ? c . enes that in a measure reproduce in the New 
 
 World something of the enchantment of the ancient fairy-like 
 glories of Moslem Spain. 
 
 “ When the Renaissance made its influence felt, the dome was 
 almost universally adopted.. The vast revenues of the Church 
 m the colony, its organization modelled upon that of Spain, 
 Where it was more dependent upon the King than upon the 
 Papacy, furnished the means for the erection and decoration 
 of magnificent temples. Under the tremendous energy of the 
 conquering race fired by the lust for wealth and power, work- 
 mg hand m hand with religious zeal, New Spain blossomed 
 in the space of a few short years into a marvellous kingdom, 
 clouted throughout its length and breadth with the splendid 
 cities that emerged from the primitive wilderness or occupied 
 the sites of preexistent cultures. And the vast domain re- 
 mains a land of contrasts to this day. 
 
 ‘ The influence of the full Renaissance was dominant in 
 Spain when the great cathedrals of Mexico and Puebla were 
 begun, in the latter half of the sixteenth century. Don Manuel 
 U. lieviUa, professor of the history of art in the National 
 rS ° f Fme Arts ? Mexico > in the admirable study en- 
 
 titled LI Arte en Mexico en la Epoca Antigua y durante el 
 trobierno Virreinal,’ says of these two structures that ‘ they are 
 the only edifices of the viceregal epoch up to the arrival of 
 vronzalez Velasquez and of Tolsa which are distinguished by 
 correctness, simplicity, and sobriety.’ 
 
 la the remaining part of the sixteenth century and through- 
 out the seventeenth, both religious and civil architecture were 
 iominated by the Baroque, with its capricious proportions, 
 ts accidental profiles, its heavy and corpulent members, its 
 
CXXX11 
 
 ARCHITECTURE 
 
 ragged fronts, its abundant, irregular, and crude mouldings 
 — but picturesque withal, and, in Spanish hands, of extraor- 
 dinary character. Among the eminent examples of the Ba- 
 roque are the church of Santo Domingo in Mexico City, the first 
 story of the State Palace in Guadalajara, the reredos in the 
 chapel of Los Reyes in the Puebla Cathedral, after designs 
 especially from Spain by Juan Martinez Montanez — recently 
 much injured in color by repainting and the substitution of 
 ■white for gold in the groundwork, and the church of Santo 
 Domingo in Oaxaca City. 
 
 ‘ 1 The decadence of Spain had extended its influence to the 
 fine arts, and its impress was stamped upon the Colonial archi- 
 tecture. In this architecture two styles maintained a sort of 
 joint dominance — -the Baroque and its peculiarly Spanish 
 outcome, the Churrigueresque, in the second of which the 
 decorative tendencies of the Free Renaissance went to the 
 uttermost extreme of architectural unrestraint. Both of these 
 styles are characterized by the interruption of straight lines, 
 the breaking of entablatures and pediments, the varied curva- 
 ture of arches and lintels, the ornamentation of panels, etc. 
 But in the Baroque the column is retained, although perhaps 
 twisted or storied, while panels may remain undecorated and 
 profiles preserve their due regularity. In the Churrigueresque 
 the column and the anta are transformed into pillars and 
 pilasters replete with decoration, all panels are decorated, 
 lines are infinitesimally broken, and the sculpture becomes an ! 
 integral portion of the structure, serving as decorative mem- I 
 bers. 
 
 “ Among the best examples of the Churrigueresque, of which 
 there are many in Mexico, may be cited the two facades of the 
 Sagrario Metropolitan at Mexico City, designed by Lorenzo 
 Rodriquez ; the church of La Santisima ; the magnificent Altar 
 de los Reyes in the Cathedral, designed by the Spanish architect 
 Geronimo Baibas , who came from Seville expressly for the work, 
 having previously executed the altar of the same name in the 
 cathedral of that city; the old Jesuit Church at Tepozotlan, the 
 Casa de AlfeTiique in Puebla, the church interiors of Santa Rosa 
 and Santa Clara at Queretaro, designed by Eduardo Francisco 
 de Tresguerras, and the churches of San Diego and of San 
 Cayetano de la Valenciana in Guanajuato. 
 
 “ Unhappily the extraordinary enthusiasm for the Churri- 
 gueresque was followed early in the present century by what 
 seems to have been an almost fanatical rage for its extermina- 
 tion. This movement appears to have had its active origin 
 with the celebrated Tolsa, who began to change over various 
 chapels in the Cathedral of Mexico, destroying the Churri- 
 gueresque retablos and replacing them with Graeco-Roman 
 work. What the grand interior of the Cathedral must have 
 been in the days of its full splendor is indicated by the superb 
 
ARCHITECTURE 
 
 cxxxiii 
 
 Capilla de los Reyes , and the various detached examples of 
 ! Free Renaissance, Plateresque, and Churrigueresque that re- 
 main to impress the beholder amidst a melancholy nakedness 
 of devastated surfaces. The movement thus started was 
 accelerated by the importation of various mediocre Italian 
 architects in succeeding years. In consequence there was a 
 universal transformation of church interiors throughout the 
 land, the old work remaining only in various nooks, here and 
 ; there, that chanced to escape the sweep of the destroying flood, 
 surviving to give the visitor a faint idea of the splendor with 
 which Mexico teemed in the days when this really beautiful 
 i work set forth the magnificence of the viceregal regime. In- 
 teriors were ruthlessly stripped of their superbly gilded wood 
 carvings, the grand retables were ripped out and smashed into 
 kindling-wood, and fine old canvases were stacked by the 
 cord in dusty corridors. In their place against the naked walls 
 appeared the lifeless altars of affectedly classic form, whose 
 air of tawdry decorum has destroyed nearly all the charm of 
 the church interiors of Mexico to-day, except that which comes 
 from general lines and spacious effects. 
 
 Ihe surviving examples of the Churrigueresque are, how- 
 ever, sufficiently numerous to impress upon the art-loving be- 
 holder who becomes intimate with the Mexican manifestation 
 of the style, a profound sense of the excellent qualities that 
 assert themselves above its fundamental irregularities and its 
 fabric of debased and perverted forms. It is in the interiors 
 that the style may best be studied, and here are displayed all 
 the resources of its art. These altar retables, worked in wood, 
 offer a greater richness in forms, and a greater refinement, than 
 ire attainable in the stone portals of church exteriors ; a re- 
 finement and richness that may be well appreciated by reason 
 of the proximity of the altars in which the spectator may stand. 
 
 The dominant tones of the gold/ says Revilla . 1 the richly 
 irnamented pilasters that ascend to the lofty vaulted ceiling ; 
 ;he cornices, flowing in curving and rebounding lines; the 
 oroken pediments that develop into volutes; the sockets and 
 oedestals adorned by numerous lambrequins ; the panels, tab- 
 ets, and friezes embroidered with scroll-work, shells, and foli- 
 ige; the niches charged with carvings; the multitude of paint- 
 ngs of saints or of passages in the life of the Saviour or of the 
 v lrgm; the medallions in low relief and the polychrome sculp- 
 ts. 0 *! martyrs, of prophets, of virgins, and of angels that 
 •eveal themselves in the penumbra against the gold back- 
 ground of the retablos toned down by the smoke of incense 
 ind of candles and by the dust of years ; the infinite variety of 
 le tails and the commingling of forms and colors — the whole 
 constituting a mysterious and impressive ensemble that, under 
 ,he contemplating gaze possess the spirit with surprise, ad- 
 mration, and mysticism, until the beholder is penetrated by a 
 
CXXX1V 
 
 ARCHITECTURE 
 
 holy awe as if he had just finished reading the verses in a chap- 
 ter of the Apocalypse.’ 
 
 ‘‘Many a visitor to Mexico,” says Mr. Baxter, “can recall ji 
 few spectacles to compare with the effect of the richly elabo-S 
 rated fagade of the Sagrario in the national capital when : 
 bathed in a silvery flood of tropical moonlight, the ornament 
 revealing itself in a soft clearness with a sort of spiritual dis- 
 tinction and mystical splendor out of the vague depths of 
 mysteriously intense obscurity. 
 
 “Very naturally a style so unconventional as the Churri - 1 
 gueresque gives great freedom to the artist. There is, there-ji 
 fore, a correspondingly marked individuality, together with al 
 wide diversity, in the character of design in the various repre-| 
 sentative examples of the work in Mexico, as will be evident! 
 from a comparison between such works as the fagade of the] 
 Sagrario, La Santisima , and San Francisco, in the City ofl 
 Mexico; San Diego , in Guanajuato; San Cayetano de la Valen-u 
 ciana, with its closer texture in ornamentation and markedtj 
 infusion of the Arabesque; and finally largeness of conceptionj 
 and vigorous freedom of the work in the resplendent retablesl 
 by Tresguerras in the churches of Santa Rosa and Santa Clara J 
 in Queretaro. Moreover, with all its florid exuberance, its j 
 almost wanton capriciousness, the Churrigueresque in its best! 
 moments achieves the full dignity of its exceeding magni-l 
 licence. 
 
 “The Churrigueresque altars are wonderfully intricate with \ 
 excellent carvings, bold and strong, or clear and delicate, asl 
 the case may require. The wood is usually covered with a thin i 
 coat of plaster upon which is laid the gilding; heavy leaf, or I 
 rather almost thin plate, now turned by time to a rich ‘blacky 
 gold.’ In the case of ungilded work, one frequently finds that! 
 the wood has not been treated in anyway. Examples of this are i 
 the benches in the church of La Cornpama at Guanajuato and I 
 one of the confessionals in the Cathedral of Mexico, both ini 
 teak. Many of the chapel gratings, railings, and window guards j 
 are of wood, frequently painted green in simulation of bronze, j 
 but more often gilded, with figures of saints and angels in j 
 colors, diapered garments, and shaded flesh. 
 
 “Another purely Spanish style, the Mudejar, — the style) j 
 developed by the Christianized Moors, — has made its influ-H 
 ence evident in much of the architecture of Mexico, particu-j : 
 larly in the polychrome tile-work of Puebla. The finest secu* ] 
 lar example of Mudejar (or Moorish-Christian) influence is the i 
 celebrated Casa de los Azidejos, the House of Tiles, a choice, I 
 sehorial mansion in the City of Mexico. This style is alsc 
 strongly manifest in the notable Capilla del Pocito, the Chape 
 of the Sacred Well, at Guadalupe. The Mudejar is character- 
 ized by Arabic decorative motives, perhaps more or less mod 
 ified by European influences, lavishly applied to work in whiclj 
 
ARCHITECTURE 
 
 cxxxv 
 
 the fundamental form is more distinctively European. As in 
 Spain itself, so in the architecture of Mexico, these Spanish 
 styles are so often blended with each other that it is difficult 
 to tell which is dominant. 
 
 “The impression of exceedingly massive solidity made by 
 the buildings of Mexico in the earliest days of the Spanish 
 dominion has been abiding. It has been stated that the Span- 
 iards are second only to the Romans as constructors. Senor 
 Revilla says that if, at first thought, the assertion might seem 
 exaggerated, its verisimilitude would be conceded on contem- 
 plating the fabrics left in New Spain; ‘Houses and palaces, 
 castles and temples, bridges, fountains and aqueducts; all 
 solid, robust, and grandiose works.’ 
 
 “Such work as the remains of the superb choir of San Agus- 
 tin (p. 361) in Mexico City indicate that a great deal of good 
 decorating of the kind was in existence before the spoliation of 
 the churches and convents by civil war, or their mutilation 
 by the even worse form of vandalism wrought by the itching 
 of ecclesiastical authorities for something brand-new, clean- 
 scrubbed, and spruced-up, and the consequent sacrifice of in- 
 valuably precious antiquities — a process that is still working 
 untold mischief. 
 
 “Of the Church Interiors in general it may be said: the 
 ceilings — except in some of the very earliest work — are 
 almost invariably vaulted. The vault is often of large, soft 
 bright-red brick. But very frequently stone is used through- 
 out. The stone is often very small, and the cement is usually 
 so exceedingly good as to bind the whole into practically a 
 monolithic mass. This is true of walls and domes as well. 
 The vaulting is almost invariably covered with plaster, either 
 decorated or left plain. The prevailing color is usually white, 
 and, in older decorations, there are bands and centre-pieces, 
 for the most part very pleasant in effect; dull reds, blues, 
 and yellows, together with an abundance of black in the way 
 of outlining. 
 
 “The fresco painting, even of the best period, is apt to be 
 bad; though in certain cases, as at Ixtacalco, it is charming, 
 because of a certain naive striving. Much excellent fresco 
 painting has been ruined by the humidity of the walls, by 
 blistering, and by cracks caused usually by earthquakes. In 
 the older decorations the arches and piers carry down the fres- 
 coing of the ceiling with gold — often conventionally repre- 
 sented in chromes shaded with black. The interior decorations 
 in many of the Mexican churches are undergoing almost con- 
 stant change. 
 
 “The bases are practically always of stone, usually very 
 pure in style — either Tuscan or Attic. The floors in the most 
 important structures are commonly of stone, and sometimes 
 of marble. But frequently, even where least expected, as in 
 
CXXXV1 
 
 ARCHITECTURE 
 
 Carmen at Celaya, San Francisco at Cuernavaca, and at Taxco, 
 they are of wood. Commonly, however, they are of large brick, 
 similar to that used in the vaulting, or of large red tiles, and, 
 not infrequently, of a combination of wood and brick. The 
 brick is usually laid in herringbone pattern, though frequently 
 different designs, and also many patched places, slabs, etc., 
 occur to break the regularity. 
 
 “ Really good Chancels are rare in Mexico. But few of the 
 good old fittings are left, all having been destroyed to make 
 room for the so-called ‘ classic ’ introduced by the Italians 
 at the beginning of the 19th century. A few churches, as at 
 Tepozotlan, Taxco , Ocotlan, and V alenciana, still possess at the 
 high altar their original gilded Churrigueresque retablos. The 
 ceilings and walls are usually decorated and painted — either 
 good, bad, or indifferent; but far more often with painted col- 
 umns, entablatures, garlands, and panelled arches in per- 
 spective, cold and gray in tone, and well done. 
 
 “The iron-work is usually simple in pattern, but excellent 
 in execution ; notably the w’ork designed by T resguerras at 
 Queretaro, where, in the case of Santa Clara, it is partially 
 gilded to harmonize with the gorgeous Churrigueresque wood- 
 carving from which it projects. 
 
 “ Rather infrequently one finds inlay, as at Queretaro, 
 where it is or was a local specialty of manufacture; or at 
 Puebla in the marvellous (cathedral) choir, which in work- 
 manship bears a strong likeness to Dutch marquetry. 
 
 “The vestibules are often formed by strangely and gro- 
 tesquely panelled inside ‘storm-doors,’ sometimes left unfin- 
 ished in every way, trusting to the color of the mahogany, 
 walnut, oak, or teak, of which they are constructed, for their 
 effect. This also applies to the confessionals, and not infre- 
 quently to the outer doors, which are apt to be ponderous 
 wood affairs, deeply carved, and swung on huge wood or iron 
 bolts set in sockets above and below. 
 
 “The glass windows ( vidrieras ) are of European and Mexi- 
 can origin, and are not noteworthy. The chandeliers are com- 
 monly gilded, with glass pendants. Formerly many churches j 
 possessed beautiful silver candelabra, which were taken to 
 swell the war chest of certain belligerent generals. 
 
 “In the Baroque style as practised in New Spain the distribu- 
 tion of sculpture follows a conventional system. In the facade 
 the ^reat entrance is usually flanked by one or a pair of statues 
 on either side, placed in niches or standing against the panels | 
 between columns or pilasters. In the second, and perhaps the j 
 third story, the same arrangement maybe repeated, a great low I 
 relief that represents leading events in the life of the saint in i 
 whose honor the church was erected often serving as the central I 
 feature. On the side portals a similar system is observed. 
 
 “In the Churrigueresque exteriors the arrangement is much 
 
PAINTING 
 
 CXXXVll 
 
 less conventional : besides the principal statues and low-relief 
 panels, there is a lavish use of minor figures, groups, cherubs, 
 heads, medallions, etc. , like fruit and flowers with foliage, as such 
 details show amidst the luxuriant mass of ornamental forms. 
 
 “In the 17th century sculpture began to be extensively 
 employed in the adornment of the richly decorated church 
 facades. Some beautiful examples of this work may be seen 
 in the stone relief over the' portal of the Biblioteca National, 
 at Mexico City, the sculpture on the facade of the cathedral 
 at Oaxaca City and the medallions in high relief that flank 
 the portal of the Alhondiga at Puebla — works good in detail, 
 well-proportioned, and individual in feature.” 
 
 The Churrigueresque style, after the architect Jose Churriguera, who 
 was born in Salamanca, Spain, about 1660 and died in 1725, is known in 
 Spain by that name, but in Italy it was called the Borromenisco. It was 
 imported into the Iberian Peninsula during a period of architectural 
 decay, where it was “improved” upon by Churriguera until it reached 
 an extravagant point, lasting during the 17th and part of the 18th 
 centuries. Coincident with its appearance came the ecclesiastical appa- 
 ratus for moving the head, the eyes, and the mouth; the wooden dolls 
 with real hair and real dresses, and much of the gaudy church furniture 
 employed in the most theatrical ceremonials. In their extravagant adop- 
 tion of it the zealous ecclesiastics both in Spain and Mexico destroyed or 
 covered over many of the classic altar-pieces of earlier times, banishing 
 splendid examples of the plastic art for the coarse materialism which the 
 “decorative delirium of the Churrigueresque style” was able to produce. 
 With the passing of the craze in Mexico many of the altars were sold to 
 dealers in antiques or were relegated to church storerooms. 
 
 Churriguera s name fell into disrepute soon after his death. Writers 
 vie with each other in anathematizing his style; Richard Ford called him 
 “the heresiarch of bad taste, and whose name is synonymous with ab- 
 surdity,” while Cean Bermudez i said, “He profaned with his architectural 
 style the decorum and sobriety of the temples.” 
 
 Painting. The artistic cravings of the Nahuas , the Mayas , 
 and other early inhabitants of Mexico found expression in 
 mural inscriptions, calculiform characters on altars, monoliths, 
 and temple walls; cartouches, paintings on pottery, robes, 
 stones, and the fibrous leaves of the maguey (p. lxxxi), and in 
 glyphs on stone, hard wood, jadeite, obsidian, and whatnot. 
 The southern tribes were the most skilful and the most ad- 
 vanced. To the Indian mind pictorial art achieved its highest 
 expression in the codices, or codexes, illuminated documents 
 made of fibre-cloth and spoken of as the American papyrus. 
 
 Though now so rare as to be immensely valuable, these 
 cddices were of the crudest sort. The human face is sometimes 
 indicated merely by calligraphic lines, and in some of the Aztec 
 codices the human form is scarcely recognizable. War, the 
 chase, peregrinations, and other tribal epochs and happenings 
 were generally represented ; the colors were usually sombre and 
 monotonous, and the pictures lacked perspective and expres- 
 sion. There was little inventive faculty, a narrow range of sub- 
 
 1 Diccionario Historico de los mas ilustres Profesores de las Bellas 
 Artes en Espaha. 
 
PAINTING 
 
 cxxxviii 
 
 jects, an absence of technique in the art motives and a notably 
 unskilful handling of the themes to be represented. But few 
 of these ancient codexes exist outside of museums, and those 
 in the Museo National de Mexico . at the Mex. capital, will 
 prove of interest to those fond of antiquarian research. A list 
 of most of the authentic codices is given below: 
 
 MEXICAN AND MAYA CODICES. THEIR LOCATIONS AND PUBLISHERS. 
 
 Names. Location. 
 
 Berlin Royal Library 
 
 Baranda Muse© Naeional de Mexico. 
 
 Bodleian Facsimile in Bodleian Li- 
 
 ! brary. Oxford. 
 
 Bologna Library of Scientific Insti- 
 
 tute.' 
 
 Borbonicus Palais Bourbon. Paris 
 
 Borgia College of the Propaganda. 
 
 Rome 
 
 Boturini Boturini Collection 
 
 Campos San Juan de Cuauhtlan- 
 
 j tzinco. Puebla. 
 
 Colombino Museo Naeional de Mexico. 
 
 Cospianus 
 
 Cortesiaaus (Mayan) Royal Museum, Madrid.. . . 
 
 Deliesa T Museo Naeional de Mexico. 
 
 Del Rios (3738) Vatican Library 
 
 Dresden (Mayan) Royal Library. Dresden 
 
 Fejervary Possession of M. F., Hungary 
 
 F ernan dez Leal M exico 
 
 Lienzo de Tlaxcala Museo Naeional de Mexico. 
 
 Mendoza Bodleiau Library, Oxford .. 
 
 N uttall i British Museum. 
 
 (.Mayan) i 
 
 Porfino Diaz Museo Naeional de Mexico. 
 
 Ramirez 
 
 Telleriano Remensis National Library, Paris 
 
 Relievo de Chiapas Museo Naeional de Mexico. 
 
 T roano ( Mayan ) Madrid 
 
 Vatieanus . .' Vatican Library, Rome 
 
 Vienna Imperial Library 
 
 Published in — 
 
 Kingsborough, ii. 
 
 Chavero. 1892. 
 Kingsborough, i, ii. 
 
 Kingsborough, ii; Due de 
 Loubat. 
 
 Due de Loubat. 
 Kingsborough, iii, 66; Due 
 de Loubat 
 Kingsborough, i. 
 
 Starr, li>9S. 
 
 Antigiiedades Mexicanas. 
 
 Due de Loubat. 
 
 Madrid. 
 
 Antigiiedades Mexicanas. 
 
 Due de Loubat. 
 
 Kingsborough, iii ; Forste- 
 mann, 1880. 
 
 Kingsborough, iii. 
 
 Pen all el. 
 
 Antigiiedades Mexicanas. 
 
 Kingsborough, i, v, vi. 
 
 Peabodv Museum of Har- 
 vard University. 
 
 Archives Paleographiques, 
 Paris, 1860, i. 
 
 Antigiiedades Mexicanas. 
 
 Kingsborough, i, v, vi: Due 
 de Loubat. 
 
 Antigiiedades Mexicanas. 
 
 Brasseur, 1S69; Thomas. 1SS2. 
 
 Kingsborough, ii, iii, v, vi; 
 Due de Loubat. 
 
 Kingsborough, ii. 
 
 “In the preparation of dyes and paints, both mineral, ani- 
 mal, and vegetable colors were employed, the latter extracted 
 from woods, barks, leaves, flowers, and fruits. In the art of 
 dyeing, the Aztecs probably excelled the Europeans, and many 
 of their dyes have since the Conquest been introduced through- 
 out the world. Chief among these was the cochineal (nochiztli) , 
 an insect fed by the Nahuas on the leaves of the nopal, from 
 which they obtained beautiful and permanent red and purple 
 colors for their cotton and other fabrics. The flower of the 
 matlalxihuitl supplied blue shades; indigo was the sediment of 
 water in which branches of the xiuhquilipitzahuac had been 
 soaked; seeds of the achiotl boiled in water yielded a red; 
 ochre, or tecozahuitl, furnished yellow, as did also the plant 
 
 1 About 25 copies of this codex were made some years ago at the ex- 
 pense of the Peabody Museum. In addition to the above codices, others 
 are, from time to time, exhumed from Mexican Indian tombs. They usu- 
 ally find their way to the National Museum, or to private collections. 
 
PAINTING 
 
 CXXX1X 
 
 xochipalli ; the latter being changed to orange by the use of 
 nitre; other shades were produced by the use of alum; the 
 stones chimaltizatl and tizatlalli being calcined, produced some- 
 thing like Spanish white ; black was obtained from a mineral, 
 tlaliac, or from the soot of a pine called ocotl. In mixing paints 
 they used chian- oil, or sometimes the glutinous juice of the 
 tzauhtli. The numerous dye-woods of the tierra caliente, now 
 one of the chief exports from that region, were all employed 
 by the native dyers. It is probable that many of the secrets of 
 this branch of Nahua art were never learned by the Spaniards. 
 
 “ The Nahua 1 paintings showed no great artistic merit, being 
 chiefly noticeable for the excellence of the colors. It is not 
 known that the Nahuas ever attempted to paint natural scene- 
 ry, except that they prepared maps of the sections of their 
 territory on which they rudely represented the mountains, 
 rivers, and forests, indicating the lands of different owners or 
 lords by the use of different colors. Very little is known of or- 
 namental painting on the walls of private dwellings, but that 
 on the temples naturally partook to a great extent of a hiero- 
 glyphic character/’ (Bancroft.) 
 
 Painting was first taught in New Spain by Europeans, who 
 established (in 1521) a clerical school under the supervision 
 of the Franciscan Friar Pedro de Gante, aided by Rodrigo de 
 Cifuentes (p. cxlv), who was the first Spanish painter to follow 
 Hernan Cortes to the New World. The earliest paintings the 
 traveller is likely to find in Mexico are feeble imitations of the 
 early productions of the Flemish and Spanish schools; as a 
 rule, they lack the delicacy of color, the grace of composition, 
 the excellent workmanship, and the charm of subject charac- 
 teristic of the better productions of the cis-Atlantic School. 
 The insipid, ashy coloring of some of them is perhaps due 
 both to the unskilful mixing of colors and to the baleful chem- 
 ical action of the sunlight at a high elevation, during several 
 centuries. Many of the paints in use in the 16th century were 
 not “light-proof,” and not a few of the first Mexican paintings 
 have faded beyond recognition. Certain of the faulty copper- 
 plate paintings done just after the Conquest had to be covered 
 with a composition to protect them. An occasional specimen 
 of this old work is sometimes to be found in the antique shops 
 of the capital, but its only merit is its age, for much of the 
 later work is more virile and much better in color. At this 
 period the Mexican taste was still unformed by a native 
 school, and as it was also uninfluenced by the great painters 
 — Cabrera , Ibarra , the brothers Juarez , and the admira- 
 ble Tresguerras — it reflected strongly that of the mother 
 country. 
 
 During the 15th century the churches in Spain were lav- 
 
 1 A few can be studied in the form of codexes in the National Museum. 
 
cxl 
 
 PAINTING 
 
 ishly adorned with paintings — chiefly of the Flemish School, 1 
 brought thence by traders or by the painters themselves — 
 and with richly painted retablos and coros. From this cir- 
 cumstance, many of the ecclesiastics who followed in the 
 wake of the Great Conqueror reached the New World with 
 an inherited love for pictures and gorgeous church decora- 
 tions, and when they found themselves rich and powerful, 
 they devoted vast sums to the purchase of art-works to dec- 
 orate newly erected cathedrals, chapels, and sacristies. “The 
 Church” (says Mr. Baxter) “soon became the great patron of 
 art in Mexico. The wonderful mines had filled the country 
 with riches, and the Church, in the enjoyment of its decimo — 
 its apportionment of a tenth part of the product of precious 
 minerals — revelled in wealth and employed it in most lux- 
 urious adornments.” From 1525 and onward, temples were 
 everywhere rising under the supervision of zealous friars, and 
 there sprang up a steady demand for pictures to adorn them. 
 At first, pictures of the early Flemish School were most in de- i 
 mand — as they were indeed also in Spain — and not a few of 
 the best productions of the Netherlandish masters found their > 
 way to the new Crown colonies. As time went on, the demand < 
 showed an enormous increase. As early as 1550, certain of the 
 Mexican churches — particularly those located in the rich 
 mining-camps — became possessed of vast wealth; some of 
 it deftly extracted by the shrewd friars from the credulous 
 natives, some of it willed to the Church by fortunate speculat- 
 ors or miners, and some openly collected by the great ecclesi- 
 astical monopoly, then coming into almost unexampled power. 
 
 Toward the close of the century, the Mexican taste under- 
 went a slight change. In 1584 Felipe II undertook the decora- 
 tion of the Escorial, and intrusted almost the whole work to 
 Italians, with the result that the Venetian style was every- 
 where apparent . During the years that followed, the Mexican i 
 demand was for Italian paintings, and more than one master- 
 piece of Titian, Paolo Veronese, and Tintoretto found its way 
 hither. Europe was ransacked for art-treasures to satisfy the 
 ecclesiastical ambition, and rich collections comprising the best 
 examples of the Flemish, Italian, and Spanish Schools w T ere 
 soon features of the rude mining-camps and of the palacios of | 
 “silver kings” of the New World. The most highly esteemed 
 painters in Mexico were those who could copy successfully 
 the great masters of the Italian School. In time, Francisco jj 
 Herrera (1576-1656), regarded by Spaniards as the originator 
 of the national style; Jusepe Ribera (1588-1656), the admira* 
 ble painter of Concepciones and Crucifixiones; Francisco Zur- 
 bardn (1598-1661), the incomparable painter of monks and 
 the various ranks of the brothers of the tonsure; and, finally. ' 
 
 1 Many picture? by masters of the Flemish School found their way to : 
 Mexico when the Low Countries were under Spanish dominion. 
 
PAINTING 
 
 cxli 
 
 Bartolome Esteben Murillo (1617-1682), the greatest of all 
 painters of Madonnas , rose to popularity, and their pictures 
 were almost as numerous in Mexico as they were in Spain. 
 Murillo in particular, with his dainty A ndalusian santas , came 
 nearest of all to the Mexican heart, and so steady was the 
 Mexican demand for his work that special envoys, with a 
 whole mine in bonanza at their backs, were sent to Spain to 
 purchase his matchless productions for New World churches. 
 
 This steady demand for paintings spurred the native crafts- 
 men to sustained effort, and the art of painting developed to 
 such a point that preliminary steps were taken toward the 
 founding of a Mexican School, at Mexico City. Vice-regal 
 interference, however, soon checked the development of native 
 talent, and history contains no record of Mexican painters of 
 note of the 16th century. 
 
 The rise of Mexican Art dates from the middle of the 
 18th century. The establishment of the Academia de los Nobles 
 Artes de San Carlos de la Nueva Espana in 1778 exercised 
 a great influence on the development of art, especially in 
 the City of Mexico. The capital had absorbed nearly all the 
 talent of the country, and quite a group of skilful painters 
 were then at work there. Miguel Cabrera , Jose Ibarra , Cristo- 
 bal de Villalpando , the great Boltazar de Echave ( el Viejo), 
 Sebastian Arteaga , and the splendid Juarez brothers had al- 
 ready left their impress on the national art, and its star of 
 achievement rose toward the zenith. At this period Mexico 
 perhaps possessed more gems from the European schools than 
 any other country. Added to these were the splendid produc- 
 tions of the native artists, and of the great painters who had 
 deserted the mother country for the freer life and greater 
 wealth of the Crown colonies. It is perhaps not too much to 
 say that every cathedral possessed a masterpiece, and the 
 sacristies of parochial churches contained treasures that 
 would grace any national collection of the Old World. 
 
 During the unhappy period which followed the faint, but 
 far-reaching, cry for independence (1810-1821), collections 
 became scattered ; sacristies were looted to provide funds for 
 the revolutionists; financial ruin threatened many collectors, 
 and scores of noted pictures took the backward course and 
 found their way again to European museums and art collec- 
 tions. Almost priceless gems of the great masters were sold to 
 native or foreigner alike, for what they would bring. The revo - 
 luciondrios cared not whether the pictures were exported or 
 destroyed, so long as the proceeds of their sale favored their 
 political career. The magnificent private collections for which 
 Mexico was noted were soon scattered forever. 
 
 To carry on his disastrous war with the United States, Gen- 
 eral Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna rifled many a church and 
 chapel of their treasures, to procure funds to swell his de- 
 
cxJii 
 
 PAINTING 
 
 pleted war-chest. Rafael Lucio, writing in 1864 (Resen a His - 
 Ulrica de la Pintura Mexicana en los Siglos XVII y XVIII, 
 published at Mexico City), laments the expatriation of so many 
 valuable pictures. “During the last three years,” he says, “I 
 have seen many hundreds of pictures exported; some of them 
 Mexican, of such excellent workmanship as to deceive the con- 
 noisseur, who thought them by European masters.” 
 
 The French marauders of the lesser Napoleon, steeped in 
 the history of the questionable exploits of La Houssaye (a 
 relico-maniac) in the Spanish Peninsula, swept Mexico clean 
 (1867) of every picture they could lay their hands upon. 
 When unable to smuggle their booty out of the country, they 
 destroyed the paintings, as in the case of the Santo Domingo 
 Convent at Oaxaca City, for the sake of the canvas only, 
 soaking them in water and beating the paint off against the 
 stones. For years the beautiful Assumption of the Virgin 
 (Murillo) at Guadalajara was hidden in the cathedral 'walls 
 to preserve it from their repeated attempts to gain possession 
 of it. It is for the above reasons that the Mexican School 
 is not fully represented in any public or private collection 
 in the Republic. Mexico has always been prodigal of her 
 great riches; hers has been a generosity almost unparalleled. 
 To the foreigner she has given with an open hand vast railway 
 concessions and landed estates, and the wealth of her fabu- 
 lously rich mines. Many a private art collection abroad has 
 been enriched by masterpieces wdiich should have remained in 
 the country, but which were nevertheless taken from the 
 churches and convents of New Spain. Not wholly untrue is 
 the Mexican proverb, “Mexico is the mother of foreigners and 
 the mother-in-law of Mexicans.” 
 
 But all the pictures were not exported, as is proved by the 
 two thousand or more which now repose in the San Carlos 
 . \ cndemy at Mexico City. Some of these were removed hither 
 from the Convento de la Enearnacion, where they were grouped 
 and stored after the Reform Law edict. Prior to the passage 
 of these laws, which aimed at the secularization and national- 
 ization of church and conventual estates, certain churches 
 possessed a fortune in pictures. Some beautiful and almost 
 priceless examples of the best native mural work perished 
 with the destruction of the Profesa Convent (M. C.), and the 
 old Convento de San Francisco (M. C.). Some of the church 
 corporations were able to cling to their most cherished posses- 
 sions — notably the Cathedral at Guadalajara, and the Parish 
 Church of Tzintzuntzan. : < 
 
 To-day Mexico possesses but few private collections of pic- 
 tures, and there is a dearth of noteworthy public galleries. 
 That of the San Carlos Academy is the most complete. During; 
 the troublous revolutionary times there was usually to be 
 found in the larger cities some art lover wdio devoted his 
 
PAINTING 
 
 cxliii 
 
 money and time to preserving the national treasures, and the 
 National Academy collection owes many of its most prized 
 works to those patriots who collected and preserved them, to 
 present them later to the Central Government. The public 
 collections in the provincial towns are usually beneath notice, 
 and the few important private galleries that remain are usu- 
 ally inaccessible to the traveller. The towns and churches 
 which contain meritorious pictures are mentioned under the 
 proper headings in the Handbook. It is only recently that 
 connoisseurs in general have awakened to the richness of the 
 Mexican field, and the present demand for pictures (and simi- 
 lar art objects) is so keen that collections are apt to change 
 ownership and location, thus rendering it impossible to give 
 accurate information regarding them. Two magnificent col- 
 lections, for which the city of Puebla was long known to art- 
 ists, changed hands not long since; the fine Cabrera Collection 
 going to a celebrated antique shop at Mex. City, and that of 
 Don Alejandro Ruiz Olavarrieta to the Government: the latter 
 collection is now in the Academia Nacional de Bellas Artes. 
 
 The lover of small painted gems will often experience a 
 sudden, quiet joy from the quaint old medallion-like pictures 
 that peer down at him from the gorgeously gilded Churri - 
 gueresque altars and reredos in the cathedrals and the older 
 churches. In the ancient times when the ecclesiastical world 
 went wild over the mazy and dazzling productions of Churri- 
 guera , it was not an uncommon proceeding to cut up the fine 
 old masterpieces, extract the figures and portraits, and set 
 them into the retablos — then considered the most precious 
 adornments of cathedrals and parroquias. The observant 
 traveller is sometimes charmed by the great beauty of certain 
 of these diminutive canvases and panels — mayhap painted 
 with reverence and zeal by some forgotten artist, but now 
 skied and dusty and almost lost in the gilded maze of altars in 
 apse or transept. 
 
 The stranger may at first find himself embarrassed in his 
 attempt to classify the old paintings, many of which are un- 
 signed and undated. In the early days a copy was appreciated 
 with the original, if equally well painted, and some of the 
 Mexican painters were adept copyists, working with a purity 
 of effect that puzzles the student of to-day. Certain pictures 
 reveal an art strongly suggestive of Murillo ; others are so 
 true to the ideals of the old Flemish and Italian masters that 
 skill is required to properly rank them. Certain of the 18 th 
 century artists painted enormous canvases, and when convents 
 and churches were demolished, it was not an uncommon form 
 of ecclesiastical vandalism to trim the pictures to fit other 
 spaces, thus destroying whatever name and date they might 
 have borne. For this reason alone, there is perhaps more than 
 one masterpiece in Mexico whose author will never be known. 
 
cxliv 
 
 PAINTING 
 
 That no Mexican painter of ability or renown has employed 
 his art to depict the horrors of the Inquisition in New Spain 
 is perhaps due to the rather unique and forceful method of 
 reprisal enjoyed by that detestable institution. It is equally 
 noteworthy that the bull-ring, also a Spanish institution, and 
 one of which certain Mexicans are passionately fond, has not 
 been chosen as a subject by any of the early Mexican artists. 
 Nor did many of them seek inspiration in the terrific and 
 transcendental episode of the Spanish Conquest. Some of 
 the painters of the 19th century took up this thrilling theme, 
 and a few of the scenes live again for us in the picture of the 
 Visita de Cortez a Montezuma (by Juan Ortega) ; Episodio de la 
 Conquista (by F. Parra) ; El Senado de Tlaxcala (by Rodrigo 
 Gutierrez) ; Fray Bartolome de las Casas (a stirring scene, by 
 Felix Parra) ; La Reina Xochitl (a Toltec legend referring to 
 the discovery of pulque , by Jose Obregon), and a Colon Des- 
 pues del Descubrimiento de America (by Juan Cordero), all 
 in the San Carlos Academy at Mexico City, and all delightful 
 adjuncts to the fascinating history of the country. A more 
 or less popular subject has been the torturing of Cuauhte - 
 motzin by the Spanish soldiery, but few good pictures of the 
 harrowing test exist. As the greatest patron of art in New 
 Spain, the Church no doubt dictated and chose its subjects, 
 with the result that 75% of the canvases of the early painters 
 are of religious import ; a large percentage Virgins, Santos and 
 Santas and Holy Families. Mexicans have, as a rule, always 
 been indifferent to the physical beauties of their wonderful 
 country, and notwithstanding the existence in the Republic of 
 waterfalls that are miniature Niagaras, snow-clad volcanoes 
 in tropical settings that vie in beauty with the winsome Fuji- 
 no-Yama and the grim giants of the Andes, and lakes that 
 rival in loveliness the gems of Northern Italy, the traveller 
 must not expect to see many of them reproduced on canvas. 
 Nor will the most zealous seeker find pictures of the splendid 
 Indian types, the picturesque ranchero, the dashing vaqueros 
 and rurales, and the ragged beggar boys and girls, of whom 
 there is no dearth. Albeit Mexico is one of the most beautiful 
 countries of the world, it has never produced a great landscape 
 painter. Nor yet an animal painter. It is significant, too, of 
 the attitude of the present-day painters, that one may travel 
 from El Paso to Guatemala, and not encounter above a half- 
 dozen indifferent portraits of that lion-hearted, gentlemanly 
 ruffian, Hernando Cortes, or of the pusillanimous but ferocious 
 M otecuhzoma (Montezuma) II, and certainly a pair of more 
 fetching blue-beards could scarcely be found on any canvas. 
 Of war pictures there are a few, all painted, as a rule, by mod- 
 ern artists. The following list of Spanish and Mexican painters 
 may perhaps aid the student and the art collector interested 
 in the subject. 
 
PAINTING 
 
 cxlv 
 
 Rodrigo de Cifuentes (born in Cordoba, Spain, in 1493) 
 followed the first Franciscan friars to Mexico, which he 
 reached in 1523, one year after the Conquest. He was the first 
 painter of any note to come to New Spain, and his first work 
 of importance there was a portrait of Hernan Cortes and one 
 of his Indian consort, Marina. Cifuentes aided the Flemish 
 monk, Pedro de Gante, to establish the first school (1523) in 
 which painting was taught in the New World. About 1538 he 
 painted the portraits of several ecclesiastics of distinction, as 
 well as those of some members of the first Audiencia. From a 
 historical viewpoint, one of his most interesting pictures (now 
 in the Academia de San Carlos , at Mexico City) represents 
 Cortes on his knees thanking Heaven for the Conquest of 
 Mexico. Specimens of his now exceedingly rare paintings can 
 be studied in the Palacio Municipal (M. C.), among the por- 
 traits of the early viceroys of New Spain. The Baptism of 
 Magiscatzin, in the old Church of San Francisco , at Tlaxcala, 
 is attributed to Cifuentes. 
 
 Andres de Concha (who died about 1599) was the second 
 painter to come from Spain to the New World. Padre Bour- 
 goaque ( Historia de los Predicadores de la Provincia de Oaxaca , 
 1074) calls Concha the “ Apelles of the New World,” and says 
 he came from the Escorial — 1 the latter undoubtedly a fiction, 
 as Concha left no record of his work on the walls of the Esco- 
 rial. His best-known paintings in Mexico are in the high altar 
 of the Church of Santo Domingo , Yauhuitlan, Oaxaca. 
 
 Baltazar de Echave, called El Viejo (the elder) to distin- 
 guish him from his son, who was referred to as Echave el Mozo 
 (the younger), a Spaniard born at Zumaya, in the Basque 
 Province of Guipuzcoa (Spain), a student of the Venetian 
 School who emigrated to Mexico (about 1590) with his style 
 partly formed, is perhaps the foremost figure among the early 
 New World painters. He is mentioned as the founder of the 
 Mexican School, and he was active on this side of the Atlantic 
 for at least 40 years. Perhaps no painter had a greater influ- 
 ence on art in New Spain; no one showed more of his fellow 
 craftsmen the way to originality and greatness. While his 
 earliest work is unequal, defective, and academical in man- 
 ner, time brought out his artistic greatness, and the reputation 
 he acquired in his later years was widespread. His pictures 
 were eagerly bought ; his style was studied by zealous imitat- 
 ors; he was reverently called the Mexican Titian — because 
 of a similarity in his work to that of the great Venetian — and 
 his adopted countrymen boastfully likened him to the great- 
 est master of the Spanish School. “ Echave was a painter of 
 adaptable temperament, and his work at successive periods 
 shows much diversity of style and method, so that he cannot 
 be fairly judged by any one painting or series of paintings. In 
 some of his pictures, for instance, his admirable drawing most 
 
cxlvi 
 
 PAINTING 
 
 prominently asserts itself, in others it is the charm of color, or 
 the fertility of invention in his pose, the diversity of types and 
 his power of composition. A certain grandiosity, a spectacular 
 pomp, and ever a large quantity, mark his productions. Faces 
 of both Raphaelesque and Flemish influence indicate that he 
 may have been a pupil of the Valencian painter, Juan de 
 Juanes , who studied in Italy copying the works of Raphael 
 and his School so faithfully that he was known in Spain as the 
 Spanish Raphael.” (Sylvester Baxter.) 
 
 Echave excelled in his large canvases, which he was wont to 
 fill with exquisite detail. In his sectarian pictures he delighted 
 in delineating the flat-bosomed dames of his time, squeezed 
 into funnel-shaped corsets and choked by starched ruffs, or in 
 portraying certain of the lantern-jawed, sinister-looking .Vice- 
 roys, livid of complexion, fish-like of eye, and with cruel or 
 sensuous faces. His portraits are sometimes excellent. He 
 ranked high as a mural painter of conventual scenes, and many 
 fine examples (now unhappily destroyed) of his work once 
 adorned the Convento de la Profesa , at Mexico City. He was 
 a brilliant colorist, and his grace of composition, harmony of 
 tone, and subtle mastery of the highest qualities of his art 
 made him a noteworthy leader of the cis- Atlantic School. His 
 earlier pictures of which the date and origin can be deter- 
 mined with certainty are those painted between 1603 and 
 1630. His phenomenal mastery of detail — more apparent in 
 some of the later works — reminds one of the most painstaking 
 early Flemish masters ; his work was often mistaken for theirs. 
 A splendid Saint Cecilia , which once hung in the capilla of the 
 old San Agustin Church at Mexico City, was considered by 
 critics the equal of some of the productions of the Italian 
 masters. His best work extant is perhaps the Oracidn del 
 Huerto in the Academia Real de San Carlos at Mexico City. 
 The expression of grief in the Saviour’s face is purely human 
 and touching. The unusually truthful rendering of the other 
 details has excited the admiration of the Mexican art critics, 
 who do not hesitate to compare it with some of the best work 
 of the Spanish School. A silly story, perpetuated by some 
 writers, to the effect that Echave learned his art from his 
 alleged wife, La Zumaya , is not borne out by the facts. An 
 18th century annalist, Licenciado Don Cayetano de Cabrera y 
 QuintadOy in his Escudo de Armas de Mexico (Mex. 1746, page 
 140), says very quaintly, with reference to the San Sebastian 
 attributed to her: 
 
 “ In one of his altars, and it is that one which is erected in the tras- 
 rnro, is seen through glass his Image, and valiant Picture, a marvel to Pro- 
 fessors of the art, and the work, according to tradition, of the famous 
 Sumaya . a celebrated painter in this city, Mistress not only in painting, 
 but in that she taught the celebrated Viscaino, Balthazar Echave the 
 first, and whom she had for her husband, and disciple, and the sons of 
 these parents degenerated not: this beautiful image has been lately 
 
PAINTING 
 
 exlvii 
 
 placed in this same site and altar, which is also that of Nuestra Senora 
 del Perdon.” 
 
 Echave had many pupils and imitators, whose inferior 
 works are usually attributed by ignorant guides to him or his 
 pseudo-wife. To this mythical “ Zumaya ” Rivera Cambas also 
 attributes certain of the pictures in the Altar de los Reyes in 
 the Mex. City Cathedral. 
 
 Echave can be studied to the best advantage in the San 
 Carlos Academy, where he has a Martirio de San Pedro Arbues , 
 Aparicion de Cristo y la Virgen a San Francisco de A sis, San 
 Juan Evangelista, Martirio de San Ponciano, La Visitation, 
 Santa Ana y la Virgen, and other pictures. 
 
 Sebastian Arteaga, a notary of the Inquisition, who 
 signed himself Notario del Santo Oficio (p. 356), is joined with 
 Echave the Elder in the honor of having founded the Mexi- 
 can School. He studied in Italy during the last years of the 
 16th century, and came to Mexico from Spain with his style 
 formed and influenced by the Spanish School. Some of his 
 pictures present sharp contrasts; his human figures are, as a 
 rule, well drawn, while the detail is marred by carelessness 
 and insipidity. Certain of his drawings are so defective in 
 their conventional stiffness, and so exaggerated in expression, 
 that one is led to believe his spirit was warped by the ques- 
 tionable institution which he served. He was not wanting in 
 vigor, as can be seen by his Christ and St. Thomas in the San 
 Carlos Academy. The general effect of his Los Deposorios 
 de la Virgen in the same gallery is good, albeit the detail, 
 particularly in the faces of his angels, is deficient. At times 
 his color is ashy and disagreeable in tone, but his best work is 
 striking. Arteaga's varying moods, and the wide difference 
 between his best and poorest work, proved misleading to the 
 critics. A painting by Francisco Zurbardn (a Spanish painter 
 of Estremadura, 1598-1661) at the Academy, El Castillo de 
 Emmaus (said to be worth $150,000), was long supposed to be 
 Arteaga's work, until the cleaning of the canvas revealed the 
 signature of the Spanish Master. 
 
 More than one of Zurbardn' s pict ures are believed to exist in Mexico, 
 and lucky indeed is the traveller who succeeds in adding one of these 
 unique and almost priceless canvases to his collection. “Zurbardn pushed 
 the realistic method to a strange and even painful extreme. He seemed 
 to pride himself on being freer from fancy or imagination than any other 
 painter who ever existed. Even his angels and other heavenly personages 
 look like photographs of the ugly boys and girls he placed on his model’s 
 stand, dressed in white linen drapery fresh from the laundry. His female 
 martyrs wear half-fashionable, half-fantastic costumes arranged on a 
 scheme of three colors, and their fashionably flat bosoms and pointed 
 bird-like faces resemble the curious figures of saints reproduced by the 
 Netherlandish artists at the end of the Middle Ages. On the other hand, 
 he is seen to advantage in his scenes from monkish legends, where he 
 depicts the cowled members of the great establishments that patronized 
 him with unexampled truthfulness and grandeza. In fact, he raised this 
 previously insignificant branch of art to new importance. The Carthusian 
 scenes in the Museum of Seville and the Mercenarian scenes in the cathe- 
 
cxlviii 
 
 PAINTING 
 
 dral of that city are among the earliest of his works. These and later 
 productions form a priceless gallery of characteristic popular types. No- 
 body else has ever had so sharp an eye for monkish life and gestures, dis- 
 criminating subtly among the various orders and the various ranks of 
 the brothers of the tonsure. In most of his works all the light comes 
 from one side, throwing sharply defined shadows, relieved by reflections. 
 At a later period he acquired a softer manner, with dark sfumaio 
 shadows on a ground glowing with light. In his later style he imitated 
 the composition of the Italians, but with little success.” (Prof. Carl 
 Justi.) Some of Zurbardn's pictures are decidedly Flemish in character. 
 
 Luis Juarez, a contemporary of Echave the Elder , was such 
 a zealous imitator of that master, that some of his pictures, at 
 first glance, resemble the greater painter’s work, though lack- 
 ing its vigor. They can usually be distinguished by the pro- 
 fusion of admirably drawn angels’ heads, in the painting of 
 which Juarez excelled. His best work was done between 1610 
 and 1630. In 1621 he painted a grand altar-piece for the Church 
 of Jesus Maria (Mex. City), for which he received nine thousand 
 pesos — a considerable sum in those days, and illustrative of 
 the wealth of the new Crown Colonies, since Murillo, who 
 painted (in *1674) the eight grand pictures La Caridad (of 
 Sevilla), received but $4,000 for them. Certain historians aver 
 that Juarez exercised considerable influence on Mexican art by 
 his pictures. His colors were soft — in the style of the Span- 
 ish School — and were deftly manipulated. The majority of 
 his pictures have disappeared, and the most that can be said 
 of those extant is that they show a certain individuality and 
 a pleasing style. Those at present in the San Carlos Acad- 
 emy are a Retrato de una Virgen , Santa Ana , La Anunciacion , 
 Busto de Virgen, Deposorios de Santa Catarina, and others. 
 
 Jose Juarez, who studied under Baltazar de Echave the 
 Elder , a tireless worker, whose pictures bear dates between 
 1642 and 1653, achieved such fame that most of his pictures 
 were exported in the belief that they were by better known 
 masters. He drew admirably, and his best work is ranked 
 with some of that of Echave. Comparatively little is known of 
 the life of Juarez. Critics agree that he was an adept in catch- 
 ing shades of facial expression, that his work was much sought 
 after by art lovers, and that he exercised a considerable influ- 
 ence on painting in New Spain. Mr. Baxter holds the opinion 
 that the two Echaves, father and son, the Juarez brothers, 
 J os* and Jose Rodriguez , and Arteaga represent the highest 
 achievement of the Mexican School. Juarez's Aparicidn de la 
 Virgen 6 San Francisco, now in the San Carlos Academy, is 
 excellent for its wealth of detail. A few of his pictures are to 
 be found in private collections in the Republic. Whether or 
 not Juarez should occupy the high place assigned him is a 
 question upon which the critical traveller may form his own 
 judgment “without fear of offending any of the generally 
 accepted canons of criticism.” 
 
 Ealtazar de Echave el Mozo (junior) copied his father’s 
 
PAINTING 
 
 cxlix 
 
 splendid manner with poor success. He lacked the florid 
 imagination, the dignity and skill of the elder, and time proved 
 him deficient in the artistic refinement which lent such endur- 
 ing charm to his father’s best work. He strained his capacity 
 to the utmost in an effort to truthfully portray the devotional 
 sentiments; failing signally. Some of the decorations in the 
 sacristy of the Puebla Cathedral are by him. The Triumph 
 of the Church and the Triumph of Religion are transcrip- 
 tions from Rubens, with modifications due to his inability to 
 faithfully reproduce a work of that master. One of his pictures 
 now in the San Carlos Academy, Cristo Llevado al Sepulcro, 
 with the date 1669, is perhaps one of his best works. 
 
 Diego de Borgraf, believed to have been a Spaniard re- 
 siding in Mexico, painted (about 1650) pictures that were 
 scarcely distinguishable from some of the best work of the 
 early Italian School. So closely did his most careful work re- 
 semble that of the European masters that most of his pictures 
 were exported in the belief that they were of Italian origin. 
 
 Cristobal de Villalpando, a man of a noteworthy talent, 
 one of the most popular artists of his day, who painted jointly 
 wdth an equally celebrated man, Juan Correa , was born about 
 1649, and died about 1714. History makes an all too meagre 
 reference to Correa , who is thought to have died about 1739. 
 The aim of these collaborators seems to have been to leave 
 great and grandiose works to posterity; the most important 
 of their productions are the seven enormous paintings that 
 decorate the sacristy and the coro of the Mex. City Cathedral. 
 Of the pictures in the sacristia, Villalpando painted The Apo- 
 calypse The Triumph of the Sacrament , and The Glory of 
 Saint Michael , while Correa painted The Assumption of the 
 Virgin, The Allegory of the Church, and The Entrance into 
 Jerusalem. The central painting in the Cathedral choir, a 
 scene from the Apocalypse, shows Correa at his best. His 
 Souls in Purgatory, on the W. wall of the choir, is not in 
 his best manner. In the Capilla de San Pedro , of the Cathe- 
 dral, there are also 14 paintings representing scenes in the 
 life of St. Peter, that are attributed to Correa. Other good ex- 
 amples of Villalpando’ s work are the Oration in the Garden, 
 San Juan de la Cruz, and The Flagellation, in the sacristy of 
 the Carmelite Church of San Angelo Mdrtir, at San Angel. His 
 series of paintings for the lunettes of the cloisters at the Jesuit 
 College of Tepozotlan are richly luminous in coloring. 
 
 A noteworthy painter of the Mexican School, Juana Ines 
 de la Cruz, Mexico’s earliest female poet, and by far the most 
 remarkable woman (b. 1651; d. 1699) the country ever pro- 
 duced, painted several ecclesiastical pictures of note, although 
 their present whereabouts is unknown. One of the most curi- 
 ous of her paintings (a small picture of herself) is now in pos- 
 session of the Pennsylvania Museum, at Philadelphia, Pa., 
 
cl 
 
 PAINTING 
 
 U. S. A. In the National Museum at Mexico City there is a 
 life-size painting (by Miguel Cabrera) of her in her library. 
 
 Jose Rodriguez Juarez (b. 1676; d. 1728), sometimes 
 spoken of as the Mexican Carracci , — because of the similarity 
 of his work to that of the Bologna School, — produced some of 
 his best pictures between 1702 and 1720. His productions are 
 marked by great dignity and impressiveness; he was perhaps 
 the first to adopt the manner (patterned after Murillo) which 
 was later improved upon by Cabrera , and which became popu- 
 lar in Mexico in the 18th century. The technique of Juarez's 
 best pictures is excellent, the colors are brilliant and clear and 
 the shades are deftly contrasted, with fine gradations of tone. 
 
 A marked freedom of touch which produces truthful effects 
 in a simple manner is noticeable in his finer work. The best 
 known of his productions is the series of twenty paintings 
 for the great CapiUa de las Santos Reyes in the Mex. City 
 Cathedral. The centrepiece of the splendid Churrigueresque 
 reredo , the Adoracion de los Reyes Magos, is regarded as his 
 masterpiece. He has a number of paintings scattered through- 
 out the Republic, but none are equal to those above men- 
 tioned, with the exception, perhaps, of two excellent pictures, i 
 La Santisima Yirgen and La Huida al Egipto, in the cloister 
 of the beautiful 'Jesuit Church of Tepozotlan. The San Juan 
 de Dios and a Retrato del Pintor Miguel Cabrera, in the San 
 Carlos Academy, are inferior to his best work. 
 
 Nicolas Rodriguez Juarez (a brother of J. R. J.) was a monk 
 and portrait painter of some renown. His Triumph of the 
 Virgin, a composition of richly decorative quality, in the 
 Church of Nuestra Sehora del Carmen, Celaya, is spoken of as 
 one of his best works. It bears the date of 1699. 
 
 Jose Maria Ibarra (b. 1688 ; d. 1756), next to Miguel 
 Cabrera the greatest Mexican painter of the 18th century, 
 was a brilliant colorist and because of this quality he was 
 called the Murillo of New Spain. That he strove for the 
 evanescent and incredibly charming Murillo quality is very j 
 evident in all his works, certain of which are considered the 
 equal of Cabrera's best productions. In point of fact, Murillo’s 
 methods raised a host of imitators in the New World, and no 
 Old World painter was copied more extensively; certainly 
 none had a more extensive following in New Spain. According ! 
 to Rafael Lucio , Ibarra studied under Juan Correa (p. cxlix), 
 who is referred to as the master of Ibarra. Although Murillo 
 had died (1682) six years before Ibarra was born, the latter 
 studied the work of the great Spanish master from his boy- 
 hood, when he painted pictures in imitation of the many which 
 Murillo himself, when yet a mere boy, u painted for exporta- 
 tion to the Spanish colonies of America.” He copied Murillo’s 
 angels in such a very excellent way that he soon gained a con- 
 siderable reputation as an able copyist, which reputation he 
 
PAINTING 
 
 cli 
 
 later enhanced by developing an originality and execution 
 which placed him in the rank of the greatest painters of the 
 New World. Like Murillo, Ibarra claimed attention by a 
 startling mastery of effects which rise above the purely ma- 
 terialistic, and in this he vies with the Italians of the Academic 
 school. His favorite colors for draperies were red and biue; 
 his expression was oftentimes weak, but his best works were 
 marked by a warm, harmonious coloring, and a truthful ren- 
 dering of nature which makes them noteworthy. Despite his 
 ardent admiration for the works of the greatest painter of 
 concepciones, Ibarra never attained that unexampled fidelity, 
 the marvellous versatility which enabled the incomparable 
 Murillo to portray his almost divinely beautiful Virgins. 
 Critics have perhaps failed to realize that Ibarra's Creole and 
 Indian environment did not lend itself to the production of 
 the fine Andalusian types which form the always charming 
 base of Murillo’s most admirable work. Ibarra can perhaps 
 be studied to the best advantage in the Academia de San Car- 
 los , where he has a number of pictures, among them a note- 
 worthy Circunsicion , La Purisima , Adoracion de los Pastores, 
 Cristo en Casa de Simon , La Mujer Adultera, La Samaritana, 
 Cristo y la Mujer del Flujo , and a series of eight small paint- 
 ings, Nacimiento de la Virgen, Adoracion de los Pastores , La 
 Presentation, La Resurreccion, La Ascencion, Pentacostes , La 
 Asuncion, and La Virgen del Apocalipsis. Excellent examples 
 of Ibarra's w r ork are the four large paintings on the wall of 
 the coro in the Puebla Cathedral. 
 
 Miguel Cabrera, a Zapotec Indian (b. 1695; d. 1768), a nat- 
 ive of Oaxaca City, the most extraordinarily popular of all 
 the Mexican painters of his time, is frequently referred to as 
 the foremost artist of his century. His best work resembles 
 some of the fine Luca Giordano frescoes in the Escorial. He 
 was a prodigious worker, with a uniform style, and he fur- 
 nished the walls of many cloisters and churches of New Spain 
 with some huge and admirable pictures. Albeit no Mexican 
 painter covered larger canvases, Cabrera devoted considerable 
 time to small bits, and formerly a great number of little 
 painted gems on wood, copper, and canvas, bearing the dates 
 of 1750-67, were scattered throughout the Republic. Cabrera 
 borrowed many of his compositions from the inventions of 
 trans- Atlantic painters by means of engravings and the like, 
 and his adroitness in evolving from this eclecticism a style 
 which, though manifestly that of others, was yet his own, re- 
 veals an astuteness characteristically Indian. His inherent 
 and peculiar style of handling the pencil and brush was so 
 marked that when he copied in oil celebrated trans-Atlantic 
 pictures, his admirers claimed that he bestowed new attrac- 
 tions by changing the composition to suit his own rich fancy. 
 His best pictures show traces of combined Italian and Flemish 
 
clii 
 
 PAINTING 
 
 
 influence, with a light, easy, and masterful touch. His colors 
 were thinly spread upon the canvas, and he employed the pig- i 
 ments which after the Conquest made the Aztecs celebrated I 
 throughout the Old World. His constructive ability was note- i 
 worthy and was marked by unusual excellence. “His capacity 9 
 to represent the human hand, like that observed in all Mexi- I 
 can painters of his century, was deficient, but his drawing and fl 
 the expression of his heads are singularly good. He intro- I 
 duced a broad and grand mode of treatment but little inferior 1 
 to the great European masters, and by so doing he made a 
 revolution in Mexican art.” 
 
 Intensely religious by nature, the narrow bigotry of the 1 
 Spanish Viceroys, the terrors of the Inquisition, and the influ- I 
 ence of the priesthood tended to impart a somewhat sombre | 
 character to his pictures. A firm believer in miracles, an ar- 1 
 dent and zealous Catholic, he became the court, painter of I 
 Archbishop Rubio y Salina, and he was long the favorite 1 
 painter of the Jesuits. In 1756 he WTote a small brochure to 
 prove that the alleged miraculous painting of the Virgin of , 
 Guadalujpe (Mex. City) was “painted neither in water-color, ] 
 nor in oil, nor in any other manner artificial or human.” He :j 
 was something of an architect and enjoyed a small reputation j 
 as a sculptor. Because of his peculiar, and unfortunate, talent 
 for mural decoration, many of his best paintings perished : 
 when the conventual estates were sequestrated and later de- I 
 molished. The splendid series of paintings representing scenes 
 in the life of Santo Domingo, once the chief adornment of the 
 old Santo Domingo elaustro (M. C)., were ruined when the j 
 structure was torn down. A number of his works, most of 
 them of minor merit, are still to be found in the church inte- 
 riors of the Republic. He has the credit of being the author of 
 all old paintings by unknown hands. Modern critics consider 
 his large canvas, the Virgin of the Apocalypse, in the San Car- 
 los Academy , as perhaps the best example extant of his work. 
 
 It was painted in 1760, and is very striking when seen from the 
 opposite side of the room wherein it hangs. Other pictures by 
 him, in the same gallery, are a Retrato de un Pinter Mexieano , San 
 Ignacio de Loyola, La Virgen de la Merced , San Jose y el Nino 
 Jesus recibiendo las Peticiones de los Devotos , San Anselmo 
 Obispo, and others. The series of the 14 Stations of the Cross, 
 painted for the Puebla Cathedral and now much injured by 
 restoration, were at one time excellent examples of his work. 
 
 Francisco Martinez, a painter of whom little is known 
 and but few of whose works are to be found in the Republic, , 
 painted between 1721 and 1736. 
 
 Jose Alzibar, a pupil of Ibarra, and one of the last repre- 
 sentatives of the older Mexican School, did bis best work 
 between 1762 and 1793. He might almost be said to have 
 carried on lba rra's work and to have worn the mantle of that 
 
PAINTING 
 
 cliii 
 
 master, as Ibarra died in 1756 and Alzibar rose steadily into 
 prominence later. The few of Alzibar’s pictures that remain 
 in Mexico — notably the admirable Last Supper and the al- 
 most equally good Triumph of the F aith , in the Claveria of 
 the Mexico City Cathedral — show that his style was formed 
 upon, and that he strove to acquire, Murillo’s “ third man- 
 ner,” termed by Spanish criti s vaporoso (misty), from a 
 gradual and almost imperceptible fusion of tints, producing 
 a kind of hazy effect. (Murillo’s lasting fame rests upon his 
 mastery of this style.) Alzibar’s San Luis Gonzaga — for- 
 merly a possession of the Cathedral sacristy, but now in the 
 San Carlos Academy — is a masterpiece in its way. Many 
 of Alzibar’s productions were exported in the belief that they 
 were painted by the celebrated Ibarra. 
 
 By far the most striking figure in the history of Mexi- 
 can painters of the 19th cent., and certainly the most in- 
 teresting one in the history of Mexican architecture, is that 
 of Francisco Eduardo de Tresguerras (b. 1765; d. 1833), an 
 architect, a sculptor, a painter, an etcher, an engraver on 
 wood, a musician, and a poet. He is known as the Michael 
 Angelo of Mexico, and as an indefatigable worker, of celebrated 
 versatility. A Creole, or native Mexican of Spanish blood, 
 and the last celebrated architect of the Colonial or Vice-regal 
 regime, Tresguerras was of a profoundly religious nature, and 
 he devoted his great energy to building and decorating 
 churches in his native town of Celaya, in Queretaro, and other 
 near-by towns. It is at Celaya that his best work in this line 
 can be studied : in the celebrated Church of Nuestra Sehora 
 del Carmen, his masterpiece, and, at the same time, one of the 
 most celebrated churches in the Republic. His largest and 
 most important painting is the magnificent mural decoration 
 in the sacristy of the collegiate Convent of Santa Rosa de Vi- 
 terbo , in Queretaro City, the “ Hortus Conclusas” in the 
 charming allegory of the Closed Garden. No less a critic than 
 the late Charles D. Warner pronounced this painting “one of 
 the most notable in Mexico ; one that would do credit to Mu- 
 rillo ; a representative of the best flowering of the great Span- 
 ish School on Mexican soil.” Tresguerras was paid $15,000 for 
 this picture, the finest example extant of his earliest work. 
 Specimens of his best manner can be studied in the Chapel of 
 the Last Judgment , in the Church of N. S. del Carmen, at Celaya. 
 The Last Judgment, though sketchy in character, is in- 
 tensely dramatic. The Entombment of Tobias and The Re- 
 surrection of Lazarus are admirable examples of his later 
 work, which shows a proud, free talent, a more truthful ren- 
 dering of nature, and a defter manipulation of the medium. 
 The Church of N.S.del Carmen is such a beautiful structure 
 and is enriched by so many admirable frescoes and oil paint- 
 ings of the master, that no lover of such should leave Mexico 
 
cliv 
 
 LITERATURE 
 
 without seeing it. Few Mexican painters have so well under- 
 stood the art of pictorial composition, or known so well how 
 to charm the eye by gradations of light, skilful attitudes, and 
 adroit foreshort enings ; few have calculated their effects more 
 carefully than Tresguerras. As a painter of allegorical subjects 
 he is perhaps unsurpassed in Mexico. He was a brilliant 
 colorist, and he produced light and shade effects that were al- 
 together charming. That his whole soul was in his work is evi- 
 dent to the most casual observer. He was such a close and de- 
 voted student of Murillo that many of his slight works might 
 easily be mistaken for sketches by the great Spaniard. History 
 does not record the master who gave Tresguerras his thorough 
 training in the fundamentals of his art. Whosoever this might 
 have been, this Celaya student easily surpassed him and rose 
 almost to the sphere of positive genius. That he received 
 some of his inspiration from the paintings of the great Ibarra is 
 quite possible, as a similarity can be detected in their work. It 
 is surprising that his many occupations permitted Tresguerras 
 to pamt the many splendid pictures which survive him. As an 
 all-round craftsman and artist he was unique in Mexican 
 annals ; untainted by even a dash of Mexican indolence ; one 
 who had mastered his various accomplishments, and who gave 
 them form with simplicity and speed. Although some of his 
 early works were marred by harshness and a sketchy effect 
 which detracted from them, age brought him into his own, 
 and his later manner is replete with a serious individuality 
 and a pride which acknowledged his worth, and “ which recks 
 not how it may look to others. 5 ’ All the qualities of his mature 
 experience are found in his later works, referred to above. His 
 Santa Ana y La Virgen in the San Carlos Academy at Mexico 
 City is not representative of his best manner. 
 
 Francisco Antonio Vallejo, whose best works bear dates 
 from 1767 to 1778, was a successful imitator of Murillo. His 
 drawing is frequently exaggerated and lacks ease and flow; 
 his coloring is conventional and sometimes weak, but there is 
 a delicacy and refinement in some of his pictures which have 
 earned him the praise of some critics. He was a rapid worker 
 and favored large canvases. He must have painted with a 
 diligence somewhat unusual in Mexico, for beside a fine votive 
 picture in the Conservatorio de Musica , at Mexico City, a 
 Feast of the Pentecost and a Holy Family in the old Colegio 
 de San Ildefonso (p. 360), he has 12 huge canvases (some S by 
 12 ft. square) in the Capilla de los Dolores, in the Church of 
 San Diego (p. 334), all bearing nearly the same dates. 
 
 Literature. The history of literature in Mexico antedates 
 the Conquest, and begins perhaps with the Mayas of Yucatan, 
 who had books like those of the Siamese, written on parch- 
 ment or native paper doubled into narrow pages and folded 
 
LITERATURE 
 
 civ 
 
 like a screen. Father Landa, the historian of the invasion of 
 that peninsula, says ( Las Cosas de Yucatan , chap, xli, p. 316) : 
 “The Maya priests wrote books about their various sciences 
 and imparted their knowledge to those whom they considered 
 worthy of enlightenment. ... We found a great number of 
 their books, but because there was nothing in them that had 
 not some superstition or falsehood of the Devil, we burned them 
 all, at which the natives were marvellously sorry and dis- 
 tressed.” Whether these works were of a high literary order, no 
 one knows. Landa confesses that among the Maya books were 
 some on medicine, astronomy, chronology, geology, and theol- 
 ogy. “They had,” said he, “ books containing the early history 
 of their own nation, and of others with whom they had inter- 
 course. Their written and spoken language was complex ; one 
 in which fine shades of thought could be expressed.” Beside 
 burning these books Landa fed the flames with twenty-seven 
 large manuscripts of parchment and destroyed many statues 
 and vases. “Pure bigotry actuated Landa, for he possessed 
 but a very imperfect knowledge of Maya writings. Thus per- 
 ished the priceless records of the early Americans, an irre- 
 parable loss which mere words fail to express. At the time of 
 the arrival of the Spaniards, great quantities of manuscripts 
 were treasured up in Anahuac. Numerous persons were em- 
 ployed in picture writing, and the dexterity of their operations 
 excited the astonishment of the Spaniards. Unfortunately this 
 was mingled with other and unworthy feelings. The strange, 
 unknown characters on them excited suspicion. They were 
 looked on as magic scrolls, and were regarded in the same 
 light with the idols and temples, as symbols of a pestilent 
 superstition, that must be extirpated. 
 
 “ The first Bishop of Mexico, Don Juan de Zumarraga (comp, 
 p. 402) — a name that should be as immortal as that of Omar 
 — collected these paintings from every quarter, especially 
 from Tezcuco, the most cultivated capital in Anahuac , and the 
 great depository of the national archives. He then caused 
 them to be piled up in a f mountain heap ’ — as it is called by 
 Spanish writers themselves — in the market-place of Tlalte - 
 lolco, and reduced them all to ashes (Ixtlilxochitl, Hist. Chick . 
 MS.). His greater countryman, Archbishop Ximenes , had 
 celebrated a similar auto-de-fe of Arabic manuscripts in 
 Granada, some 20 years before. Never did fanaticism achieve 
 two more signal triumphs than by the annihilation of so many 
 curious monuments of human ingenuity and learning.” (Pres- 
 cott, vol. i, p. 103 et seq.) 
 
 That there were poets and men of high literary attainment 
 in Mexico before the arrival of the Spaniards is proven by 
 the writings of Netzahualcoyotl, cacique of Tezcuco in the 15t,h 
 cent. “The historian Ixtlilxochitl has left a translation, in 
 Castilian, of one of the poems of his royal ancestor. It is not 
 
clvi 
 
 LITERATURE 
 
 easy to render his version into corresponding English rhyme, 
 without the perfume of the original escaping in this double 
 filtration. They remind one of the rich breathings of Spanish- 
 Arab poetry, in which an ardent imagination is tempered by 
 a not unpleasing and moral melancholy. But, though suffi- 
 ciently florid in diction, they are generally free from the mere- 
 tricious ornaments and hyperbole with which the minstrelsy 
 of the East is usually tainted. They turn on the vanities and 
 mutability of human life, — a topic very natural for a mon- 
 arch who had himself experienced the strangest mutations of 
 fortune. There is mingled in the lament of the Tezcucan bard, 
 however, an Epicurean philosophy, which seeks relief from 
 the fears of the future in the joys of the present.” “Banish 
 care,” he says: “if there are bounds to pleasure, the saddest 
 life must also have an end. Then weave the chaplet of flowers, 
 and sing thy songs in praise of the all-powerful God ; for the 
 glory of this world soon fadeth away. Rejoice in the green 
 freshness of thy spring; for the day will come when thou shalt 
 sigh for these joys in vain; when the sceptre shall pass from 
 thy hands, thy servants shall wander desolate in thy courts, 
 thy sons, and the sons of thy nobles, shall drink the dregs of 
 distress, and all the pomp of thy victories and triumphs shall 
 only live in their recollection. Yet the remembrance of the 
 just shall not pass away from the nations, and the good thou 
 hast done shall ever be held in honor. The goods of this life, 
 its glories and its riches, are but lent to us, its substance is but 
 an illusory shadow, and the things of to-day shall change 
 on the coming of the morrow. Then gather the fairest flowers 
 from thy garden, to bind round thy brow and seize the joys 
 of the present ere they perish.” 
 
 “/o tocare cantando 
 El musico instrumento sonoroso, 
 
 Tu de flores gozando 
 
 Danza, y festeja a Dios que es poderoso; 
 
 O gozemos de esta gloria , 
 
 Porque la humana vida es transitoria .” 
 
 MS. de Ixtlilxochitl. 
 
 N etzahualcoyotl was the favorite hero of the Tezcucans, and 
 some of his wise sayings are still current in the vernacular. 
 Certain of his odes constitute epic poems. 
 
 “ Fernando de Alva Ixtlilxochitl , who flourished in the beginning of th6 
 16th cent., was a native of Tezcuco, and descended in a direct line from 
 the sovereigns of that kingdom. His mother was the principal wife, or 
 queen, of Netzahualpilli. He filled the office of interpreter to the Viceroy, 
 to which he was recommended by his acquaintance with the ancient 
 hieroglyphics and his knowledge of the Mexican and Spanish languages. 
 His birth gave him access to persons of the highest rank in his own 
 nation, some of whom occupied important civil posts under the new 
 (Spanish) government, and were thus enabled to make large collections 
 of Indian manuscripts, which were liberally opened to him. He had an 
 extensive library of his own, also, and with these means diligently pur- 
 sued the study of the Tezcucan antiquities- He deciphered the hierogly- 
 
LITERATURE 
 
 clvii 
 
 phics, made himself master of the songs and traditions, and fortified his 
 narrative by the oral testimony of some very aged persons, who had 
 themselves been acquainted with the Conquerors. From such authentic 
 sources he composed various works in the Castilian, on the primitive his- 
 tory of the Toltecs and the Tezcucan races, continuing it down to the 
 subversion of the empire by Cortes. The Historia Chichimeca is the best 
 digested and most complete of the whole series, and as such has been 
 frequently consulted by historians. 
 
 “ I xtlilxochitl has introduced us to the knowledge of the most polished 
 people of New Spain, whose records, if preserved, could not at a much 
 later period, have been comprehended; and he has thus afforded a stand- 
 ard of comparison which raises our ideas of American civilization. His 
 language is simple, and, occasionally, eloquent and touching. His de- 
 scriptions are highly picturesque. He abounds in familiar anecdote; and 
 the natural graces of his manner, in detailing the more striking events of 
 history and the personal adventures of his heroes, entitle him to the name 
 of the Livy of Anahuac.” (Prescott, vol. i, p. 206.) 
 
 Soon after the Conquest a rigorous censorship was estab- 
 lished over writers, and with the advent of the Inquisition 
 theological writings only were tolerated. While the specimens 
 of these that have come down to us are interesting to antiqua- 
 rians and clerics, the motive was not one through which the gay 
 and bubbling fancy of the Indian poet — whose themes were 
 usually the flowers and birds and fields — could find satisfac- 
 tory vent. There was no dearth of church historians, and to 
 some of them we are indebted for excellent accounts of the 
 Spanish invasion and conquest, and the stirring and spectacu- 
 lar episodes connected therewith. Perhaps the best of these 
 was Bernal Diaz , the recognized historian of the Conquest, 
 whose Historia V erdader a de la Conquista has been translated 
 in many languages; Fray Toribio de Benevente (called Moto- 
 linia), whose Historia de los Indios and Historia Eclesiastica 
 give the most thorough account of religious labors for the 
 greatest part of the 16th cent.; and Torquemada (the leading 
 chronicler of New Spain for the 16th cent.), whose Monarquia 
 Indiana (printed at Sevilla in 1615) gives the most complete 
 general history for the century, of ecclesiastical, political, and 
 Indian affairs. Other prominent historians were Fray Alonzo 
 de la Rea ; F . Baltazar de Medina , and Fr. Geronimo Mendieta. 
 Fray Bartolome de las Casas , Bishop of Chiapa, “ Protector Gen- 
 eral of the Indians,” and a historian of merit, was one of the 
 most remarkable men of the 16th century. Born at Sevilla in 
 1474 (died 1566), he devoted his life to protecting the Indi- 
 ans of the New World, and to writing his admirable History 
 of the Indies ( Historia V erdader a de la Conquista de Nueva 
 Espana) : few documents on New Spain give a more impartial 
 account of the Conquest and the treatment of the natives by 
 the Spaniards. The courtly Herrera was also a figure of this 
 period: his Historia General, which appeared in 1601, is still 
 a classic on the early life of New Spain. 
 
 Collections of books were not numerous during the Spanish rule, out- 
 side of the convents, where more or less extensive libraries were found, 
 almost wholly theologic. Foreign books were strictly excluded, and 
 
clviii 
 
 LITERATURE 
 
 churchmen discountenanced light Spanish literature: the standard au- 
 thors of Spain formed the nucleus of the sets, notwithstanding the num- 
 ber of local writers was large. The circulation of prose fiction was re- 
 stricted. 
 
 The first book printed (1536) in the New World saw the light in Mexico 
 City; it was Fray Juan de Estrada’s E sc ai a E spiritual parallegar al Cielo 
 (Spiritual ladder for reaching Heaven), translated from the Latin into 
 Spanish by the venerable Dominican Friar Ivan de Magdalena. This 
 book (which no longer exists) was printed more than a century before the 
 first press was established at Cambridge, and a quarter of a century 
 before Shakespeare was born. 
 
 The first wood -engraving printed in the New World was the title-page 
 of Juan Gerson’s Tripartite >, which appeared in 1544. The first sheet 
 music came from the same press in 1561. 
 
 Two books are said to be extant with the dates 1539 and 1540, the 
 former being a Doctrina Cristiana , the latter a Manual de Adultos. Ten 
 other books printed before 1550 are known to bibliographers, and there 
 are about 70 more with dates of the 16th cent. In 1761 there were six 
 printing-presses in Mexico. 
 
 The bulk of the books printed in the 16th cent, in America were 
 purely religious — and the majority of them for the instruction of the 
 Indians who were fast acquiring knowledge in the schools founded by 
 Fray Pedro de Gante and his fellow-missionaries. There were vocabula- 
 ries, catechisms, etc., in .V ahuatl, Mixtec, Zapotec , Otomi, Huaxtec, Taras- 
 can , Zoque, and other dialects; and books of law, medicine, hist or y, and 
 the like, in Spanish and Latin. 
 
 Prominent among noted Mexicans of colonial times was 
 Carlos de Siguenza y Gongora (b. 1645; d. 1700), who probably 
 established (in 1693) the first newspaper (El Mercurio Vo- 
 lante) in New Spain. He was a poet, philosopher, mathemati- 
 cian, historian, antiquarian, essayist, journalist, and critic, 
 and his most valuable writings are still in manuscript form. 
 
 The leading chronicler for the 17th cent, was Fray Agustin de 
 Vetancurt, a Franciscan, whose Arte de la LenguaMexicana was 
 published at Mexico City in 1673, and whose Teatro Meocicano , 
 Description Breve de los Sucesos Exemplares, Histdricos, Politi- 
 cos , Militares y Religiosos, appeared in Mexico in 1697-9S. 
 
 Contemporary with Vetancurt were the Friars Baltazar 
 Medina and Davila Padilla , both Mexicans, and ranking as 
 Franciscan and Dominican chroniclers respectively, and both 
 (says Bancroft) verbose and involved. 
 
 Perhaps the first Mexican classic was the Periquillo Sar- 
 niento of Jose Joaquin Fernandez de Lizardi (b. 1771 ; d. 
 1827), who wrote under the pseudonym of El Pensador Mexi- 
 cano — the Mexican Thinker. The celebrated literatist Luis 
 Gonzalez Obregon pronounces this “the most Mexican, the 
 most popular, and the most transcendental book written in 
 Mexico during the 19th century.” It was published in Havana 
 in 1816 while the gifted author was harassed by his country- 
 men and government, spied upon by suspicious and envi- 
 ous friars, and censured far and wide by those whose manners 
 and faults he faithfully portrayed. His pictures of the na- 
 tional characteristics of that epoch were so true to the life that 
 he became the victim of political and ecclesiastical persecu- 
 tion sustained enough to have crushed a less indomitable 
 
LITERATURE 
 
 clix 
 
 spirit. Lizardi possessed a quaint and original humor, marked 
 by sweetness and a gentle irony. Periquillo Sarniento, which 
 has been referred to “ as one of the wittiest and most delightful 
 books in the whole range of Mexican literature,” is generally 
 known as the Mexican Gil Bias, and is perhaps a biographical 
 sketch of the eventful life of its author. With the drollery and 
 daring which are ineradicable Mexican traits, Lizardi pre- 
 sented one of the first copies of his book to the reigning Vice- 
 roy Francisco Javier Venegas — under the pretext of a felicita- 
 tion — and warmly urged him to unfrock the ambitious friars 
 who, in the guise of chaplains, aided the Spaniards in the 
 fight against the Mexicans struggling for independence. The 
 furious Viceroy immediately ordered a further curtailment of 
 what little liberty the press had formerly enjoyed. Senor 
 Lizardi was clapped into jail, where he remained for six 
 months, and writers generally, whose theme was Spanish op- 
 pression, were persecuted with vigor. On his release from 
 prison Lizardi began the dissemination of a folleto in defense of 
 the Freemasons ( defensa delosfranc-masones), for which he 
 was promptly excommunicated by the Church in Mexico. His 
 Letrillas Satiricas, which appeared from the Mexican press 
 at intervals between 1810 and the publication of his master- 
 piece, aroused a storm of indignation among the Spanish 
 ecclesiastics, and paved the way for his exile later. Periquillo 
 Sarniento has passed through numerous editions, and it is for 
 sale on almost every book-stall in the Mexican capital. Its 
 witticisms, localisms, and idioms are so essentially Spanish- 
 Mexican that a translation preserving the true flavor and 
 spirit of the book were well-nigh impossible. 
 
 Toward the end of the 18th cent, the writings of the Jesuits 
 Alegre, Clavigero, Cavo, and Mariano Veytia appeared, and 
 imparted a classic and sedate tone to literature. In this cen- 
 tury there also appeared a history worthy of note, by Mier y 
 Guerra. 
 
 The most celebrated bibliographers of New Spain have been 
 Eguiara y Eguren, Biblioteca Mexicana, Mexico, 1755, and 
 Beristain, Biblioteca Hispano- Americana Septentrional, Mexico, 
 
 1816-21. 
 
 “The Franciscan, Manuel Navarrete, shone during the 
 opening decade of the 19th cent, with such lustre as to win 
 him the cognomen of the American swan. Tenderness and 
 purity breathed in every line, as well as religion and reflective- 
 ness.” The poet Tagle — author of an ode addressed to the 
 Army of the Three Guarantees — also wrote about this time, 
 but he did little toward moulding the national thought. A 
 conspicuous figure of the period was the picturesque genius 
 Don Andres Quintana Roo, whose poetry was of a political 
 character and quite as ardent as his views. 
 
 Carlos Maria Bustamante, an indefatigable writer of his- 
 
clx 
 
 LITERATURE 
 
 tories, flourished between 1774 and 1835. Between 1849 and 
 1852 Lucas Alaman wrote his excellent Historia de Mcjico 
 and his Disertaciones Sobre la Historia de la Republica. In 
 1840 there came to Mexico, as the first Spanish representative 
 to Mexico after the successful War for Independence, Seiior 
 Calderon de la Barca , Spain’s Minister Plenipotentiary and 
 Envoy Extraordinary, bringing with him Spain’s recognition 
 of Mexico’s freedom. Of peculiar interest to lovers of good 
 literature was the fact that with him came also his charming 
 English wife, wdio, in 1843, published under the title of Life 
 in Mexico , a truthful and delightful picture of the Mexico and 
 Mexicans of that period. It remains the best book of its class. 
 
 For nearly half a century following the War for Independ- 
 ence Mexico was in an almost continuous political turmoil, 
 which envenomed the minds of the people and damped the 
 ardor of its writers. The inherent literary spirit spent itself 
 in lampooning the farcical governments, in pasquinades and 
 diatribes against the unpatriotic aspirants for fugitive political 
 honors, and in newspaper essays on the lives of the few great 
 men whose love for country and whose militant spirit so fre- 
 quently led to personal misfortune, if not early death. During 
 this period the poet Manuel Carpio, and the dramatist and 
 poet Manuel Eduardo Gorostiza , lived and worked. 
 
 The revival of literature coincides in Mexico with the early 
 dawn of its present power and prosperity. About 1870 
 Manuel Acuna , poet and popular idol of the poetry-loving 
 Mexicans, sounded a lyrical note which still echoes from 
 El Paso to Yucatan. His passionate love-poems {P asionarias) , l 
 of the Don Juan Tenorio type, though slightly tinged with 
 erotomania, are admirable expressions of a fervid southern 
 nature. His regrettable death (1873) by suicide, when still 
 young, over a love-affair, idealized him in the hearts of the 
 younger generation. His poesias are enshrined in the memory 
 of, and are quoted by, a host of admirers. 
 
 The appearance in 1886 of Guillermo Prieto's Romancero 
 Nacional proved to the delighted nation that a lyrical poet 
 of a high order had arisen — one yet to be surpassed. Prieto 
 (b. Feb. 1818; d. March 2, 1897) possessed a genius which em- 
 braced the most varied subjects. With a muse that could 
 express the most delicate shades of poetical thought— -a 
 fancy light as thistle-down — he also had the ability to write 
 essays upon political economy, on finance, and kindred sub- 
 jects that displayed “a soundness of judgment such as poets 
 
 1 “ The strength of Mexican poets lies above all in amatory poems, 
 to which should be added a tendency toward elegiac strains, which was 
 so marked among the aboriginal ancestry. While the ballad has ever 
 retained its hold on popular taste, sonnets were even more frequent in 
 Mexico than in Spain. Epigrammatic verse is common, though inclining 
 to erotic sentiments.” 
 
LITERATURE 
 
 clxi 
 
 are not usually supposed to have. As an author of whimsical 
 verse, as a poet of sentiment, and, above all, as a poet of 
 patriotism, his work is justly esteemed as of the best that 
 Mexico has produced. He was, in effect, the Mexican laureate, 
 not because the greatest poet, but because the most national. 
 His brilliant imagination and clear perception ranged not 
 upon a borrowed Parnassus, but in the no less inspiring and 
 much fresher Mexico of his day; and the romances of his 
 Musa Callejera (Curbstone Idyls) will never lose their charm. 
 They will remain not only favorites of the soil, but precious 
 documents to the historian and student of manners. They 
 paint exactly and vividly the types of the times now gone — 
 and perhaps nowhere else so well portrayed — at once the 
 china of the beaver skirts and the sehorita curst of the tene- 
 ments, the charro in wide calzones and sombrero jarano , and 
 the ignorant but supercilious polio of the aristocracy.’ ’ His 
 Memorias de Mis T tempos and Lecciones de Historia P atria 
 are of interest chiefly to Mexicans. 
 
 Prescott’s work on Aztec culture roused many distinguished 
 Mexicans, and several political, poetical, and moralist writers 
 rose to prominence during the closing years of the 19th cen- 
 tury. Conspicuous among them were the historians Jose 
 M. Roa Barcena . Dr. Eleuterio Gonzalez (whose best-known 
 work is the Life of Dr. Mier), Licentiate Manuel Orozco y 
 Berra , whose monumental and admirable Mejico a travez 
 de los Siglos , and Historia Antigua y dela Conquistade Mexico, 
 are mines of erudite information, and for comprehensiveness 
 and value perhaps surpass any other native effort: the aca- 
 demician Lie. Luis Gutierrez Otero , and, finally, Ignacio M . 
 Altamarino, a delightful writer whose Rimas and Movimiento 
 Liter ario en Mexico are works of such a high order that he is 
 referred to as the Maestro of Mexican Literature — since to 
 him, perhaps, more than to any other single writer, Mexican 
 literature of the present day owes its existence. The poesias 
 of Jose Peon y Contreras , Juan de Dios Peza (Cantos del 
 Hogar ), Manuel Jose Othon , Juan Ruiz de Alarcon , Vicente 
 Riva Palacio , Juan Dias Covarrubias , Manuel Gutierrez 
 Najera, Isabel Prieto de Landazuri, Justo Sierra , and others 
 appeal to the modern fancy and are widely read. 
 
 Few statistical writers have enjoyed a more deserved pop- 
 ularity than the late Matias Romero', his Geographical and 
 Statistical Notes on Mexico (New York, 1898) is valuable to 
 those interested in Mexico’s resources. 
 
 El Libro de Mis Recuerdos (Mex. 1905), by the popular 
 writer, Antonio Garcia Cubas, makes delightful reading for 
 those interested in the Mexico of the period of the American 
 invasion and of the Maximilian epoch. Few Mex. scholars 
 have shown more diligent and patient research than Jose 
 Marla Maroqui , whose three ponderous tomes, La Ciudad de 
 
clxii 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 Mexico (Mex. 1900), contain El Origin de los nombres de muchas 
 de sus ealles y plazas, del de varios establecimientos piiblicos 
 y privados, y no pocas noticias curiosas y entretenidas. 
 
 The score or more works from the indefatigable pen of the 
 “ great documentary historian 5 ’ Joaquin Garcia Icazbalceta, 
 treat of almost every subject of popular interest, from the 
 Conquest to the present day. The student interested in the 
 peculiarities of the various Indian dialects (as well as in 
 Indian and Mexican history) will find a mine of information 
 in the 5 big volumes of the Obras Completas de Don Francisco 
 Pimentel — a monumental and erudite work. 
 
 Those interested in data relating to Vice-regal days will 
 find much to please them in the splendid collection of old 
 parchments and books in the national archives in the Palacio 
 Municipal, mentioned at p. 292. The paper in some of them 
 is made from the fibre of the Agave Americana (the Aztec 
 papyrus), and in the books dating as far back as 1524 are 
 recorded the acts of the first ayuntamiento of the conquered 
 Aztec city. Herein one sees names that stir the blood and 
 recall heroic episodes of the Conquest. The bindings of certain 
 of these books, and their illuminated text, are things of beauty. 
 The library of the Museo Xacional is also interesting. 
 
 Mexican literature of the present century possesses no 
 definite character, although several authors can bear com- 
 parison with the first-class poets, novelists, and historians of 
 other lands. Certain of the Mexicans are brilliant journalists, 
 clever satirists, novelists, and good writers of lyrical poetry. 
 They excel as historians, and a fervid and sustained patriot- 
 ism adds charm to their work. A noteworthy fact is that the 
 men of most pronounced literary ability, those who have 
 made a success in this field, are usually prodigious workers 
 along other lines, — politics, finance, medicine, statesmanship, 
 and the like, — and literature is with them more a recreation 
 than a profession. 
 
 XV. History and Races. 
 
 “Of all that extensive empire which once acknowledged 
 the authority of Spain in the New World, no portion, for inter- 
 est and importance, can be compared with Mexico : and this 
 equally, whether we consider the variety of its soil and cli- 
 mate; the inexhaustible stores of its mineral wealth; its scene- 
 ry, grand and picturesque beyond example ; the character of 
 its ancient inhabitants, not only far surpassing in intelligence 
 that of the other North American races, but reminding us, 
 by their monuments, of the primitive civilization of Egypt 
 and Hindustan; or, lastly, the peculiar circumstances of its 
 Conquest, adventurous and romantic as any legend devised 
 by Norman or Italian bard of chivalry.” (Prescott.) 
 
 “The merciful hand of Providence has bestowed on the 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 clxiii 
 
 Mexicans a magnificent land, abounding in resources of all 
 kinds — a land where none ought to be poor, and where misery 
 ought to be unknown — a land whose products and riches of 
 every kind are abundant, and as varied as they are rich. 
 It is a country endowed to profusion with every gift that 
 man can desire or envy; all the metals from gold to lead; 
 every sort of climate from perpetual snow to tropical heat, 
 and inconceivable fertility. (Lempriere, Notes on Mexico.) 
 
 “The history of ancient Mexico is substantially that of the 
 Valley of Mexico (Vale of Anahuac), that beautiful spot where 
 once beat the heart of the great Aztec Empire. Midway 
 across the continent, somewhat nearer the Pacific than the 
 Atlantic Ocean, it stands at an elevation of nearly 7,500 ft.; 
 oval in form, about 37 leagues in circumference, and encom- 
 passed by a towering rampart of porphyritic rock, which 
 nature seems to have provided, though ineffectually, to pro- 
 tect it from invasion. The soil, once carpeted with a beautiful 
 verdure and thickly sprinkled with stately trees, is often bare, 
 and, in many places, white with the incrustation of salts 
 caused by the draining of the waters. Five lakes once spread 
 over the valley, occupying one tenth of its surface. On the 
 opposite border of the largest of these basins stood the cities 
 of Tenochtitldn and Tezcuco, the capitals of the two most 
 potent and flourishing States of Anahuac , whose history, 
 with that of the mysterious races that preceded them in the 
 country, exhibits some of the nearest approaches to civiliza- 
 tion to be met with anciently on the North American con- 
 tinent. 
 
 “Of these races the most conspicuous were the Toltecs 
 (people of Tollan). Advancing from a northerly direction, 
 they entered the territory of Anahuac , probably before the 
 close of the seventh century. They established their capital 
 at Tula, 50 M. north of the Mexican Valley, and the remains 
 of extensive buildings are to be discerned there now. The 
 noble ruins of religious and other edifices, still to be seen in 
 various parts of Mexico, are referred to this people, whose 
 name, Toltec, has passed into a synonym for architect. They 
 were well instructed in agriculture and many of the most use- 
 ful mechanical arts; were nice workers of metal; invented 
 the complex arrangement of time adopted by the Aztecs 
 (people of Aztlan), and were the true founders of the civiliza- 
 tion which distinguished this part of the continent in later 
 times.” (Prescott.) 
 
 After a period of four centuries the Toltecs disappeared 
 from the land as silently and mysteriously as they had entered 
 it. F rom their legends and their shadowy history the belief has 
 been detached that pulque (p. lxxxii), which was discovered 
 by them, caused their downfall and final disappearance. 
 
 After the lapse of another hundred years, a numerous and 
 
clxiv 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 rude tribe, called the Chichimecs (people of Chichimecan — 
 place of dogs) entered the deserted country from the regions 
 of the far North-west. * 1 “ They were speedily followed by other 
 races, of higher civilization, perhaps of the same family with 
 the Toltecs, whose language they appear to have spoken. The 
 most noted of these were the Aztecs, or Mexicans (Mexico), 
 and the Acolhuas (‘people at the bend of the water’). The 
 latter, better known in later times by the name of Tezcucans 
 (from their capital, Tezcuco, on the eastern border of the 
 Mexican lake), were peculiarly fitted, by their comparatively 
 mild religion and manners, for receiving the tincture of civil- 
 ization which could be derived from the few Toltecs that 
 still remained in the country. This, in their turn, they com- 
 municated to the barbarous Chichimecs, a large portion of 
 whom became amalgamated with the new settlers as one 
 nation. 
 
 “The Mexicans came also from the remote regions of the 
 North — the populous hive of nations in the New World — 
 and arrived on the borders of Anahuac toward the beginning 
 of the 14th cent., some time after the occupation of the land 
 by the kindred races. For a long time they did not establish 
 themselves in any permanent residence, but continued shifting 
 their quarters to different parts of the Mexican Valley. After 
 a series of wanderings and adventures they at length halted 
 on the south-western border of the principal lake, in the year 
 1325. They there beheld, perched on the stem of a prickly 
 pear, which shot out from the crevices of a rock that was 
 washed by the waves, a royal eagle of extraordinary size and 
 beauty, wdth a serpent in its talons, and his broad wings 
 opened to the rising sun. They hailed the auspicious omen, 
 announced by an oracle as indicating the site of their future 
 city, and laid its foundations by sinking piles into the shallows : 
 for the low marshes were half-buried under water. On these 
 they erected their light fabrics of reeds and rushes (tules), 
 and sought a precarious subsistence from fishing, as well as 
 the cultivation of such simple vegetables as they could raise on 
 their floating gardens. The place was called Tenochtitlan 2 
 in token of its miraculous origin, though only known to Euro- 
 peans by its other name of Mexico, derived from their war- 
 god Mexitli .” 
 
 a. Montezuma and his Realm. “After a lapse of two 
 centuries we find the descendants of these people cemented 
 into a strong and partly civilized nation, dwelling in palaces, in 
 the midst of a barbaric pomp and splendor allied to the Ori- 
 ental or Asiatic. From his palace in Tenochtitlan the King 
 Montezuma wielded his sceptre over a wade and populous 
 
 1 It is highly probable that these were Chinese. 
 
 1 TcnochixUdn. from tell, stone, tlan, on, and nochfli . cactus, is sup- 
 
 posed aiso to have been named for the founder of the city, Tenoch. 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 clxv 
 
 domain. Many rich cities and villages dotted the Crown 
 possessions, and the annual tributes received therefrom com- 
 prised cotton dresses and mantles of feather-work, exquisitely 
 made; ornamented armor, vases and plates of gold ; gold-dust, 
 bands, and bracelets; crystal, gilt, and varnished jars and 
 goblets; bells, arms, and utensils of copper; reams of maguey 
 paper; grain, fruits, copal, amber, cochineal, cacao, wild 
 animals, and birds, timber, mats, etc. Garrisons were estab- 
 lished in the larger cities, and new territory was constantly 
 being added to the already extensive domains of the empire. 
 Communication was maintained with the remotest parts of 
 the country by means of swift couriers. Post-houses were 
 established on the great roads, about two leagues distant from 
 each other. The courier, bearing his despatches in the form 
 of a hieroglyphical painting, ran with them to the first 
 station, where they were taken by another messenger and 
 carried forward to the next, and so on until they reached the 
 capital. Fresh fish was frequently served at Montezuma’s 
 table in 24 hours from the time it had been taken from the 
 Gulf of Mexico, 260 miles from the capital. 
 
 “ A vast army was maintained ; the dress of the warriors 
 being picturesque and often magnificent. Their bodies were 
 covered with a close vest of quilted cotton, so thick as to be 
 impenetrable to the light missiles of Indian warfare. This 
 garment was so light and serviceable that it was adopted by 
 the Spaniards. The wealthier chiefs sometimes wore a cuirass 
 made of thin plates of gold and silver. Over it was thrown a 
 surcoat of the gorgeous feather-work in which they excelled. 
 Their helmets were sometimes of wood, fashioned like the 
 heads of wild animals, and sometimes of silver, on the top of 
 which waved a panache of variegated plumes, sprinkled with 
 precious stones and ornaments of gold. 
 
 “They wore also collars, bracelets, and ear-rings of the same rich ma- 
 terials. Their weapons were the deadly maquahuitl and the javelin. The 
 style and quality of the dress of the inhabitants of Andhuac were superior 
 to those of the folks along the seacoast. The tilmantli, or cloak, thrown 
 over the shoulders and tied around the neck, made of cotton of different 
 degrees of fineness, according to the condition of the wearer, and the 
 ample sash around the loins, were often wrought in rich and elegant 
 figures and edged with a deep fringe or tassel. As the weather grew cool, 
 mantles of fur or of the gorgeous feather-work were sometimes substi- 
 tuted. The latter combined the advantages of great warmth and beauty. 
 The Mexicans had also the art of spinning a fine thread of the hair of the 
 rabbit and other animals, which they wove into a delicate web that took 
 a permanent dye. 
 
 “ The women wore several skirts or petticoats of different lengths, with 
 highly ornamented borders, and sometimes over them loose, flowing 
 robes, which reached to the ankles. These, also, were made of cotton, for 
 the wealthier classes, of a fine texture, prettily embroidered. The Aztec 
 women had their faces exposed, and their dark, raven tresses floateo 
 luxuriantly over their shoulders, revealing features which, although of 
 dusky or rather cinnamon hue, were not unfrequentlv pleasing, while 
 touched with the serious, even sad expression characteristic of the national 
 physiognomy. 
 
clxvi 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 “ The Palace of Montezuma occupied one side of what is 
 now the Plaza Mayor , of the new city. This pile of buildings 
 spread over an extent of ground so vast that, as one of the 
 conquerors said, ‘ its terraced roof might have afforded ample 
 room for thirty knights to run their courses in a regular 
 tourney.’ Its interior decorations were gorgeous; its walls 
 were covered with fanciful draperies, its roofs inlaid with 
 cedar and other odoriferous woods. 
 
 “The tianguiz, or Great Market, was usually the centre 
 of animation in ancient Anahuac, and there the customs of the 
 people could be best observed. The market-place was sur- 
 rounded by deep porticoes, and the several articles had each 
 its own quarter allotted to it. According to Cortes , who was 
 astonished at the multitudes assembled there, the market- 
 place was thrice as large as the celebrated square of Sala- 
 manca. Here might be seen cotton piled up in bales, or manu- 
 factured into dresses and articles of domestic use, as tapestry, 
 curtains, coverlets, and the like. The richly stained and nice 
 fabrics reminded Cortes of the silk-market of Granada. There 
 was the quarter assigned to the goldsmit hs, where the purchaser 
 might find various articles of ornament or use formed of the 
 precious metals, or curious toys, made in imitation of birds 
 and fishes, with scales and feathers alternately of gold and 
 silver, and with movable heads and bodies. These fantastic 
 little trinkets were often garnished with precious stones, and 
 showed a patient, puerile ingenuity in their manufacture, like 
 that of the Chinese. 
 
 “ In this market were met together traders from all pans, 
 with the products and manufactures peculiar to their coun- 
 tries; the goldsmiths of Azcapotzalco , the potters and jewellers 
 of Cholula, the painters of Tezcuco, the stone-cutters cf Tena- 
 jocan, the hunters of Xilotepec, the fishermen of CuitlahucXy 
 the fruiterers of the tierra caliente, the mat and chair makers of 
 Quauhtitlan , and the florists of Xochimilco, — all busily engaged 
 in recommending their wares and chaffering with purchasers. 
 
 “In an adjoining quarter were collected specimens of 
 pottery, coarse and fine, vases of wood elaborately carved, 
 varnished or gilt, of curious and sometimes graceful forms. 
 There were also hatchets made of copper alloyed with tin, 
 which the natives used instead of iron. The soldier found here 
 all the implements of his trade; the casque fashioned into the 
 head of some wild animal, with its grinning defences of teeth, 
 and bristling crest dyed with the rich tint of the cochineal; 
 the escaupil or quilted doublet of cotton, the rich surcoat 
 of feather-mail, and weapons of all sorts, copper-headed 
 lances and arrows, and the broad ?naquahuitl with its sharp 
 blades of itzli (obsidian). Here were razors and mirrors of 
 this same hard and polished material, which served so many 
 of the purposes of steel with the Aztecs. In the square were 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 clxvii 
 
 also to be found booths occupied by barbers, who used these 
 same razors in their vocation. For the Mexicans, contrary 
 to the popular and erroneous notions respecting the aborigines 
 of the New World, had beards, though scanty ones. Other 
 shops and booths were tenanted by apothecaries, well provided 
 with drugs, roots, and different medicinal preparations. In 
 other places again, blank books or maps for the hieroglyphical 
 picture-writing were to be seen, folded together like fans, 
 and made of cotton, skins, or more commonly the fibre of the 
 agave , the Aztec papyrus. 
 
 “ Animals, both wild and tame, were offered for sale, and 
 near them, perhaps, a gang of slaves with collars round their 
 necks, intimating they were likewise on sale. The display 
 of provisions was also an attractive feature of the great 
 tianguiz. There were meats of all kinds, domestic poultry, 
 game from the neighboring mountains, fish from the lakes 
 and streams, fruits in all the delicious abundance of these 
 temperate regions, green vegetables, and the unfailing maize. 
 There was many a viand, too, ready dressed, which sent up its 
 savory steams provoking the appetite of the idle passenger, 
 pastry, bread of the Indian corn (maize), cakes, and confec- 
 tionery. Along with these were to be seen cooling or stimulat- 
 ing beverages, the spicy foaming chocolatl, with its delicate 
 aroma of vanilla, and the inebriating pulque, the fermented 
 juice of the aloe. All these commodities, and every stall 
 and portico, were set out, or rather smothered, with flowers, 
 showing — on a much greater scale, indeed — a taste similar 
 to that displayed in the modern markets of modern Mexico. 
 
 “ The Spaniards often visited the place, and no one states 
 the amount of people seen in the tianguiz at less than forty 
 thousand. Every fifth day the city swarmed with a motley 
 crowd of strangers, not only from the vicinity, but from many 
 leagues around ; the causeways were thronged, and the lake 
 was darkened by canoes filled with traders flocking to the 
 great market. It resembled, indeed, the periodical fairs in 
 Europe, not as they exist now, but as they existed in the Mid- 
 dle Ages. 
 
 “There were amongst us,” says the chronicler Bernal Diaz, 
 “soldiers who had been in many parts of the world, — in 
 Constantinople and in Rome and through all Italy, — and 
 who said that a market-place so large, so well ordered and 
 regulated, and so filled with people, they had never seen.” 
 
 The Great Teocalli, in the midst of a vast area (on the 
 site of the present' cathedral) , was one of the “sights” of the 
 ancient city. It was constructed by Ahuizotl, who celebrated 
 its dedication, in 1486, by a great hecatomb of victims, esti- 
 mated at 20,000. It was encompassed by a wall of lime and 
 stone, about 8 ft. high, ornamented on the outer side by figures 
 of serpents (a common emblem in the sacred sculpture of 
 
clxviii 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 Anahuac) raised in relief, which gave it the name of coatcpantli , 
 or wall of serpents. This wall, which was quadrangular, was 
 pierced by huge, battlemented gateways, opening on the 
 four principal streets of the capital. Over each of the gates 
 was a kind of arsenal, filled with arms and warlike gear. 
 Adjoining, were barracks, garrisoned by ten thousand soldiers, 
 who served as a sort of military police for the capital, supply- 
 ing the emperor with a strong arm in case of tumult or sedition. 
 
 The teocaUi itself was a solid pyramidal structure of earth 
 and pebbles, coated on the outside with hewn stones. It was 
 square, with its sides facing the cardinal points. It was divided 
 into five bodies or stories, each one receding so as to be of 
 smaller dimensions than that immediately below it. The 
 ascent was made by a flight of steps on the outside, which 
 reached to the narrow terrace or platform at the base of the 
 second story, passing quite round the building, when a second 
 stairway led to a similar landing at the base of the third. The 
 breadth of this walk was just so much space as was left by 
 the retreating story next above it. From this construction 
 the visitor was obliged to pass round the whole edifice four 
 times in order to reach the top. “This had a most imposing 
 effect in the religious ceremonials, when the pompous pro- 
 cession of priests with their wild minstrelsy came sweeping 
 round the huge sides of the pyramid, as they rose higher and 
 higher, in the presence of gazing multitudes, toward the 
 summit. The first object that met the view on reaching the 
 summit, was a large block of jasper — the identical sacrificial 
 stone now preserved in the National Museum. At the other 
 end of the area, which was paved with broad flat stones, were 
 two towers or sanctuaries, consisting of three stories, the 
 lower one of stone and stucco, the two upper of wood elabor- 
 ately carved. In the lower division stood the images of their 
 gods; the apartments above were filled with utensils for their 
 religious services, and with the ashes of some of their Aztec 
 princes, who had fancied this airy sepulchre. Before each 
 sanctuary stood an altar, with that undying fire upon it, the 
 extinction of which boded as much evil to the empire as that 
 of the Vestal flame would have done in ancient Rome. Here, 
 also, was the huge cylindrical drum made of serpents’ skins, 
 and struck only on extraordinary occasions, when it sent forth 
 a melancholy sound that might be heard for miles, — a sound 
 of woe in after-times to the Spaniards. 
 
 “ From the summit of the teocaUi a splendid view of the city ' 
 could be had. Below lay the ancient metropolis spread out i 
 like a map, with its streets and canals intersecting each other j 
 at right ancles, its terraced roofs blooming like so many j 
 parterres of flowers. Every place seemed alive with business I 
 and bustle : canoes glanced up and down the canals, the streets j 
 were crowded with people in their gay, picturesque costumes, 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 clxix 
 
 while from the market-place a confused hum of many sounds 
 and voices rose upon the air. One could distinctly trace the 
 symmetrical plan of the city, with its principal avenues issu- 
 ing, as it were, from the four gates of the coatepantli, and con- 
 necting themselves with the causeways, which formed the 
 grand entrances to the capital. This regular and beautiful 
 arrangement was imitated in many of the inferior towns, 
 where the great roads converged toward the chief teocalli, or 
 cathedral, to a common focus. 
 
 “ One could discern the insular position of the metropolis 
 bathed on all sides by the salt floods of the Tezcuco , and in 
 the distance the clear fresh waters of the Chaleo; far beyond 
 stretched a wide prospect of fields and waving woods, with 
 the burnished walls of many a lofty temple rising high above 
 the trees and crowning the distant hill-tops. The view reached 
 in an unbroken line to the very base of the circular range of 
 mountains, whose frosty peaks glittered as if touched with fire 
 in the morning ray; while long, dark wreaths of vapor, roll- 
 ing up from the hoary head of Popocatepetl , told that the de- 
 stroying element was, indeed, at work in the bosom of the 
 beautiful valley. 
 
 “ The interiors of the sanctuaries were incrusted on the sides 
 with stucco, on which various figures were sculptured, repre- 
 senting the Mexican calendar and the priestly ritual. At one 
 end of the salon was a recess with a roof of timber richly 
 carved and gilded. Before the altar stood the colossal image 
 of Huitzilopochtli , the tutelary deity and war-god of the Az- 
 tecs. His countenance was distorted into hideous lineaments 
 of symbolical import. In his right hand he wielded a bow, and in 
 his left a bunch of golden arrows, which a mystic legend had 
 connected with the victories of his people. The huge folds of 
 a serpent, consisting of pearls and precious stones, were coiled 
 round his waist, and the same rich materials were profusely 
 sprinkled over his person. On his left foot were the delicate 
 feathers of the humming-bird, which, singularly enough, gave 
 its name to the dread deity. (Comp. p. 303.) 
 
 “One of the sanctuaries was dedicated to a milder deity. 
 This was Tezcatlipoca, next in honor to that invisible Being, 
 the Supreme God, who was represented by no image and con- 
 fined by no temple. It was Tezcatlipoca who created the world 
 and watched over it with a providential care. He was repre- 
 sented as a young man, and his image, of polished black stone, 
 was richly garnished with gold plates and ornaments, among 
 which a shield burnished like a mirror was the most characteris- 
 tic emblem, as in it he saw reflected all the doings of the world.’ * 
 
 b. The Landing of the Spaniards and their March to 
 the Capital. The first landing of the Spaniards under Cortes , l 
 
 1 The Great Conqueror was born at Medellin, Province of Estrema- 
 dura, Spain, in 1485. His father, Martin Cortes de Monroy , was a captain 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 clxx 
 
 on Mexican soil, was at Tabasco on March 25, 1519. After a 
 sharp brush with the natives, in which the invaders came out 
 victorious, they sailed along the coast until they reached the 
 spot where the castle of Sa? i Juan de Ulua now stands off the 
 mainland of Vera Cruz. There they cast anchor on the evening 
 of Thursday of Passion Week; the next morning, April 21, 
 being Good Friday, Cortes landed, with all his force, on the 
 
 of infantry. His mother was Dona Catalina Pizarro Altamarino. In 1504. 
 when 19 years old, he left Spain for Cuba, where for many years he was 
 a prominent figure in the life of the new Crown Colony. He sailed for 
 Mexico Feb. 18. 1519, and perhaps no single man ever exerted a greater 
 influence on the destiny of that country. He died in the village of Cas- 
 tilleja de la Cuesta. near Seville (Spain), Dec. 2, 1547. in the 63d year 
 of his age. His body was transported to the chapel of the monastery of 
 San Isidro, in Seville, where it 'was laid in the family vault of the Duke of 
 Medina Sidonia. In 1562 it was removed, by order of his son, Martin, to 
 New Spain, not, as directed by his will, to Coyoacan, but to the monas- 
 tery of San Francisco, in Tezcuco, where it was laid by the side of a 
 daughter, and of his mother. In 1629 the remains were again removed; 
 and on the death of Don Pedro, fourth “Marquis of the Valley,” it was 
 decided by the authorities of Mexico to transfer them to the church of 
 San Francisco, at the capital. 
 
 “A military and religious procession was formed with the Archbishop 
 of Mexico at its head. He -was accompanied by the great dignitaries of 
 the church and state, and the members of the Audiencia. The coffin con- 
 taining the relics of Cortes was covered with black velvet, and supported 
 by the judges of the royal tribunals. On either side of it was a man in 
 complete armor, bearing, on the right, a standard of pure white, with the 
 arms of Castile embroidered in gold, and, on the left, a banner of black 
 velvet, emblazoned in like manner with the armorial ensigns of the house 
 of Cortes. Behind the corpse came the Viceroy and a numerous escort of 
 Spanish cavaliers, and the rear was closed by a battalion of infantry, 
 armed with pikes and arquebuses, and -with their banners trailing on the 
 ground. 
 
 “ With this funeral pomp, by the sound of mournful music, and the slow 
 beat of the muffled drum, the procession moved forward till it reached 
 t he capital. The gates were thrown open to receive the mortal remains of 
 the hero who, a century before, had performed there such prodigies of 
 valor.” 
 
 Yet his bones were not permitted to rest here undisturbed ; and in 1 794 
 they were removed to the Hospital de Jesus N azareno (p. 349). The 
 mouldering relics of the warrior, now deposited in a crystal coffin secured 
 by bars and plates of silver, were laid in the chapel, and over them was 
 raised a simple monument, displaying the arms of the family, and sur- 
 mounted by a bronze bust (by Tolsa) of the Conqueror. 
 
 In 1 823, the patriot mob of the capital, in its zeal to commemorate the 
 era of national independence, and its detestation of the “old Span- 
 iards,” proposed to break open the tomb which held the ashes of Cortes 
 and to scatter them to the winds ! The authorities declined to interfere 
 on the occasion, but the friends of the family entered the vault by night, 
 and secretly removed the relics. It is generally believed that they are 
 now in the family vault of the Duke of Terranova, at Palermo, albeit 
 some persons insist that they are still in Mexico, hidden in some place 
 unknown to the people. 
 
 The sword of Cortes and the remains of the banner carried by him in 
 the Conquest of Mexico are now in the Museo de Artilleria at Madrid. 
 
 The student interested in the exploits of the Great Captain should 
 consult Prescott’s Conquest of Mexico; Bancroft’s History of Mexico; 
 (iomara’s llistoria de Mexico (Gomara was the leading biographer of 
 ?ortc8)\ Bernal Diaz’s Yerdadera Historia de la Conquista ; and Oviedo’s 
 rl istoria General de las Indias. 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 clxxi 
 
 spot where now stands the city of Vera Cruz. After a num- 
 ber of interviews with envoys from Montezuma and from other 
 chiefs, Cortes determined to march to the Aztec stronghold — 
 an undertaking which historians refer to as one of the “most 
 daring and adventurous in history; demonstrating, in a high 
 degree, the calibre of those stern and iron- willed conquerors.” 
 
 Sending his fleet, which lay at anchor in the bay, to coast 
 along the shore to the north as far as Quiahuiztlan, Cortes vis- 
 ited in person the town of Cempoalla, made allies of the Toto- 
 nacs there, then returned to Vera Cruz to complete arrange- 
 ments previous to his departure for the capital. Recalling his 
 ships, he brought on shore the cordage, sails, iron, etc., and 
 ordered these to be sunk. Then this little handful of men, on a 
 hostile shore and arrayed against a formidable empire, turned 
 their faces toward the interior. To Mexico! was the cry. “The 
 destruction of his fleet by Cortes is perhaps the most remark- 
 able passage in the life of this remarkable man. It was an 
 act of resolution that has few parallels in history.” 
 
 When Cortes set out from the Totonac capital, his forces 
 amounted to 400 foot and 15 horse, with 7 pieces of artillery. 
 From the cacique of Cempoalla he obtained 1300 warriors, 
 and a thousand tamanes , or porters, to drag the guns and 
 transport the baggage. He took forty more of their principal 
 men as hostages, as well as to guide him on his way and 
 to serve by their counsels among the savage tribes he was to 
 visit. 
 
 “ It would be difficult to depict the impressions of the Span- 
 iards as they stood, one beautiful morning, and gazed from the 
 crest of the Sierra de Ahualco over the Valley of Mexico, 
 Stretching far away at their feet were seen noble forests of 
 oak, sycamore, and cedar, and beyond, yellow fields of maize 
 and the towering maguey, intermingled with orchards and 
 blooming gardens. In the centre of the great basin were beheld 
 the lakes, their borders thickly studded with towns and 
 hamlets, and in the midst — like some fair empress with her 
 coronal of pearls — the fair city of Mexico, with her white 
 towers and her pyramidal temples, reposing, as it were, on the 
 bosom of the waters — the far-famed ‘ Venice of the Aztecs.’ 
 
 “The 8th of Nov. was a conspicuous day in the history of 
 Mexico. With the first faint streaks of dawn, the Spanish 
 general was up, mustering his followers. They gathered, with 
 beating hearts, under their respective banners, as the trumpet 
 sent forth its spirit-stirring sounds across the water and wood- 
 land, till they died in distant echoes among the mountains. 
 Cortes with his little body of horse formed a sort of advance 
 guard to the army. Then came the Spanish infantry. The 
 baggage occupied the centre ; and the rear was closed by the 
 dark files of Tlascalan (p. 429) warriors. The whole number 
 was short of 7,000 ; of which less than 400 were Spaniards. 
 
clxxii 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 “For a short distance, the army kept along the narrow 
 tongue of land which separates the Tezcucan from the Chalcan 
 waters, when it entered on the great dike (now the Tlalpan 
 causeway), which, with the exception of an angle near the 
 commencement, stretched in a perfectly straight line across 
 the salt Hoods of Tezcuco to the gates of the capital. 
 
 “ The. Spaniards had occasion more than ever to admire the 
 mechanical science of the Aztecs, in the geometrical precision 
 with which the work was executed, as well as the solidity of 
 its construction. It was composed of huge stones well laid in 
 cement, wide enough throughout its whole extent for ten 
 horsemen to ride abreast. 
 
 “ Everywhere the invaders beheld the evidence of a crowded 
 and thriving population. The temples and principal buildings 
 of the adjacent cities were covered with a hard white stucco, 
 which glistened like enamel in the level beams of the morning 
 sun. The margin of the great basin was thickly gemmed with 
 towns and hamlets. The water was darkened by swarms of 
 canoes filled with Indians, who clambered up the sides of the 
 causeway and gazed with astonishment at the strangers. The 
 white-skinned warriors in their glittering armor, the mail- 
 clad horses which resembled gigantic demons to the timid 
 Indians, the camp equipages and all the glittering parapher- 
 nalia of Spanish accoutrement, presented a terrific sight to 
 the amazed Indians, and awed them into a wondering silence. 
 At the distance of half a league from the capital, they encoun- 
 tered a solid work or curtain of stone, which traversed the 
 dike. It was 12 ft. high, was strengthened by towers at the 
 extremities, and in the centre was a battlemented gateway, 
 which opened a passage to the troops. It was called the Fort 
 of Xoloc, and became memorable in after-times as the position 
 occupied by Cortes in the famous siege of Mexico. 
 
 “ Here they were met by several hundred Aztec chiefs, who 
 came out to announce the approach of Montezuma, and to 
 welcome the Spaniards to the capital. They were dressed in 
 the fanciful gala costume of the country, with the maxtlatl , 
 or cotton sash, around their loins, and a broad mantle of the 
 same material, or of the brilliant feather embroidery, flowing 
 gracefully down from their shoulders. On their necks and 
 arms they displayed collars and bracelets of turquois mosaic, 
 with which delicate plumage was curiously mingled, while their 
 ears, under lips, and occasionally their noses, were garnished 
 with pendants formed of precious stones, or crescents of fine 
 gold. Shortly the Spaniards beheld the glittering retinue of 
 the emperor emerging from the great street which led then, 
 as it still does, through the heart of the city. Amidst a crowd 
 of Indian nobles, preceded by three officers of state bearing 
 golden w^ands, they saw T the royal palanquin blazing with 
 burnished gold. It was borne on the shoulders of nobles, and 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 clxxiii 
 
 over it a canopy of gaudy feather-work, powdered with jewels 
 and fringed with silver, was supported by four attendants of 
 the same rank. 
 
 “ Montezuma wore the girdle and ample square tilmatli 
 of his nation. It was made of the finest cotton, with the em- 
 broidered ends gathered in a knot round his neck. His feet 
 were defended by sandals having soles of gold, and the leath- 
 ern thongs which bound them to his ankles were embossed 
 with the same metal. Both the cloak and sandals were 
 sprinkled with pearls and precious stones, among which the 
 emerald and the chalchihuitl — a green stone [jadeite] of high- 
 er estimation than any other among the Aztecs — were con- 
 spicuous. On his head he w T ore no other ornament than a 
 'panache of plumes of the royal green, which floated down his 
 back, the badge of military, rather than of regal, rank . 1 
 
 “When the train had come within a convenient distance, 
 it halted, and Montezuma, descending from his litter, came 
 forward, leaning on the arms of the lords of Tezcuco and 
 Iztapalapan — his nephew and brother. As the monarch 
 advanced under the canopy, the obsequious attendants strewed 
 the ground with cotton tapestry, that his imperial feet might 
 not be contaminated by the rude soil. 
 
 “ The Spanish army halted as he drew near. Cortes , dis- 
 mounting, threw his rein to a page, and, supported by a few 
 of his principal cavaliers, advanced to meet him. The inter- 
 view must have been one of uncommon interest to both. 
 Whatever may have been the monarch’s feelings, he so far 
 suppressed them as to receive this guest with princely court- 
 esy, and to express his satisfaction at personally seeing him 
 in his capital. 
 
 “ Cortes responded by the most profound expressions of 
 respect, while he made ample acknowledgments for the sub- 
 stantial proofs which the emperor had given the Spaniards 
 of his munificence. He then hung round Montezuma’s neck 
 a sparkling chain of colored crystal. After the interchange of 
 these civilities, Montezuma appointed his brother to conduct 
 the Spaniards to their residence in the capital, and, again 
 entering his litter, was borne off amidst prostrate crowds, 
 in the same state in which he had come. The Spaniards 
 quickly followed, and with flying colors and music, soon made 
 their entrance into the southern quarter of Tenochtitldn . 
 
 “Here again they found fresh cause for admiration in the 
 grandeur of the city and the superior style of its architecture. 
 The great avenue through which they were now marching was 
 
 1 “ Montezuma was at this time about 40 years of age. His person was 
 tall and thin, but not ill made. His hair, which was black and straight, 
 was not very long. His beard was thin, his complexion paler than is often 
 found in his dusky race. His features, though serious in expression, did 
 not wear the look of melancholy which characterizes his portrait.” (Pres- 
 cott, Conquest of Mexico.) (Compare p. clxxxii.) 
 
clxxiv 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 lined with the houses of the nobles. They were built of a red, 
 porous stone drawn from quarries in the neighborhood. The 
 flat roofs ( azoteas ) were protected by stone parapets, so that 
 every house was a fortress. Occasionally a great square or 
 market-place intervened, surrounded by its porticoes of stone 
 and stucco ; or a pyramidal temple reared its colossal bulk. 
 
 “What impressed the Spaniards most were the throngs of 
 people who swarmed through the streets and on the canals, 
 filling every doorway and window, and clustering on the roofs 
 of the buildings. Strange thoughts must have filled the Aztec 
 minds as the inhabitants gazed on the portentous pageant; 
 as they heard for the first time the well-cemented pavement 
 ring under the iron tramp of the horses — the strange animals 
 which fear had clothed in such supernatural terrors; as they 
 gazed on the children of the East, revealing their celestial 
 origin in their fair complexions ; saw the bright falchions and 
 bonnets of steel, a metal to them unknown, glancing like 
 meteors in the sun, while sounds of unearthly music — at least, 
 such as their rude instruments had never wakened — floated 
 in the air ! But every other emotion w r as lost in that of deadly 
 hatred, when they beheld their detested enemy the Tlascalan 
 stalking, in defiance, as it were, through their streets, and 
 staring around with looks of ferocity and wonder, like some 
 wild animal of the forest who had strayed by chance from his 
 native fastnesses into the haunts of civilization. 
 
 “ As they passed down the spacious streets, the troops 
 repeatedly traversed bridges suspended above canals, along 
 which they saw the Indian barks gliding swiftly with their 
 little cargoes of fruits and vegetables for the markets of 
 Tenochtitldn. At length they halted before a broad area near 
 the centre of the city, where rose the huge pyramidal pile 
 dedicated to the patron war-god of the Aztecs, second only, 
 in size as well as sanctity, to the temple of Cholula, and cover- 
 ing the same ground now in part occupied by the great Cathe- 
 dral of Mexico. 
 
 “ Facing the western gate of the enclosure of the temple 
 stood a low range of stone buildings, spreading over a wide ex- 
 tent of ground, the palace of Axayaccitl, Montezuma’s father, 
 built by that monarch about fifty years before. It was ap- 
 propriated as the barracks of the Spaniards. The emperor 
 himself was in the court-yard waiting to receive him. Ap- 
 proaching Cortes , he took from a vase of flowers, borne by 
 one of his slaves, a massy collar, in which the shell of a species 
 of craw-fish, much prized by the Indians, was set in gold and 
 connected by heavy links of the same metal. From this chain 
 depended eight ornaments, also of gold, made in resemblancf 
 of the same shell-fish, a span in length each, and of delicate 
 workmanship. Montezuma, as he hung the gorgeous collai 
 round the general’s neck, said, ‘This palace belongs to you, 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 clxxv 
 
 Malinche, and your brethren. Rest after your fatigues, for 
 you have much need to do so, and in a little while I will visit 
 you again.’ So saying, he withdrew with his attendants, 
 evincing in this act a delicate consideration not to have been 
 expected in a barbarian. 
 
 “On a subsequent visit to Cortes, Montezuma made many 
 inquiries concerning the country of the Spaniards, their 
 sovereign, the nature of his government, and especially their 
 own motives in visiting Anahuac .. Cortes explained these 
 motives by the desire to see so distinguished a monarch and 
 to declare to him the true Faith professed by the Christians.” 
 
 c. The Spaniards in Tenochtitlan. “The Spaniards had 
 not been long in the Aztec capital before the true object of 
 their visit became apparent to the Mexicans. Their insatiable 
 greed of gold and their religious intolerance were ever in evi- 
 dence. Cortes and his priests lost no opportunity to preach 
 salvation and the cross to their unwilling host ; nor did they 
 fail to treat the natives with that lofty contempt from which 
 ecclesiastical missionaries of to-day are not always free. If 
 Montezuma was steeped in the superstitions of his country, 
 the iron-willed conqueror was no less bigoted. Neither cared 
 to yield, and the apparent peace was illusory, and was main- 
 tained only by fear and force of arms. The unfailing hospi- 
 tality of Montezuma, and his princely gifts, failed to awaken 
 a feeling of gratitude in the breast of the Spaniard ; they but 
 whetted his appetite. The final seizure of the emperor as a 
 hostage against any treacherous act on the part of the natives, 
 and the confiscation of the imperial treasure, were measures 
 which so incensed the Aztecs that it required all Montezuma’s 
 authority to restrain their impatience.” 
 
 The middle of May, 1520, six months after the entrance of 
 the Spaniards into Mexico, was the beginning of a long series 
 of misfortunes for the invading army. For reasons of safety, 
 Cortes deemed it advisable to quit Tenochtitlan , descend to 
 the coast, and settle an account of long standing with Panfilo 
 de Narvaez , a political enemy who had just landed on Mexican 
 soil with a squadron of 18 vessels, a large number of men, and 
 military stores; the object of the expedition being to capture 
 Cortes , supersede him, and return him to Spain to answer 
 charges which would be submitted to him by the Spanish Court. 
 
 With his usual good fortune Cortes defeated Narvaez , won 
 over his men, possessed himself of the equipment, and with 
 the reinforcements started back to the capital. On leaving, 
 he had placed the city under the charge of Alvarado, with 
 a garrison of 140 men, all the artillery, the greater part of 
 the little band of horse, and the arquebusiers. But when the 
 victorious general and his recruits reached the highlands and 
 began the descent into the Valley of Mexico, their reception 
 by the natives was significant. “No one came forth to greet 
 
clxxvi 
 
 HISTORY AXD RACES 
 
 them ; supplies were granted with an ungracious air, and the 
 general began to entertain uncomfortable apprehensions 
 respecting the fate of the garrison in Mexico. But his doubts 
 were soon dispelled by the arrival of a messenger in a canoe, 
 from the city, whence he had escaped. He brought de- 
 spatches from Alvarado , informing his commander that for 
 the last fortnight the garrison had suffered greatly from the 
 Mexican blockade, but he hoped tranquillity would be restored 
 on the approach of his countrymen. Montezuma sent a mes- 
 senger also, to the same effect No effort was made by the 
 Mexicans to bar the entry of the Spaniards, and with sad- 
 dened feelings they reached the great gate of the palace of 
 Axayacatl. The gates were thrown open, and Cortes and his 
 veterans rushed in and were cordially embraced by their 
 companions in arms. 
 
 “The first inquiries of the general were respecting the ori- 
 gin of the tumult. The accounts were various, but all agreed 
 in tracing the immediate cause to the violence of Alvarado. 
 
 “ It was common for the Aztecs to celebrate an annual festival in May 
 in honor of their war-god. It was held in the court of the teocalli in the 
 immediate neighborhood of the Spanish quarters. They assembled on the 
 day appointed, to the number of six hundred. They were dressed in their 
 most magnificent gala costumes, and at their special request, Montezuma 
 was present. Alvarado and his soldiers attended as spectators. The Az- 
 tecs were soon engrossed in the exciting movements of the dance, accom- 
 panied by their religious chants and wild, discordant minstrelsy. While 
 thus occupied, Alvarado and his men, at a concerted signal, rushed with 
 drawn swords on their victims. Unprotected by armor or weapons of any 
 kind, they were hewn down without resistance by their assailants, who 
 showed np pity or compunction. Some fled to the gates, but were caught 
 on the long pikes of the soldiers. Others who attempted to scale the Wall 
 of Serpents, which surrounded the area, shared the like fate, or were cut 
 to pieces by the ruthless soldiery. The pavement ran with streams of 
 blood. Not an Aztec, of all that gay company, was left alive ! Not con- 
 tent with slaughtering their victims, the Spaniards rifled them of the 
 precious ornaments on their persons ! On this sad day fell the flower of 
 the Aztec nobility. Not a family of note but had mourning and desola- 
 tion brought within its walls. Many a doleful ballad, rehearsing the in- 
 cidents of the story, and adapted to the plaintive national airs, continued 
 to be chanted by the natives long after the subjugation of the country. 
 
 “No sooner was the butchery accomplished than the tidings spread 
 like wild-fire through the capital. Men could scarcely credit their senses. 
 All they had hitherto suffered, the desecration of their temples, the im- 
 prisonment of their sovereign, the insults heaped on his person, all were 
 forgotten in this one act. Every feeling of long-smothered hostility and 
 rancor now burst forth in the cry for vengeance. The city rose in arms to 
 a man; and on the following dawn, almost before the Spaniards could 
 secure themselves in their defences, they were assaulted with desperate 
 fury. Some of the assailants attempted to scale the walls; others suc- 
 ceeded in partially undermining and setting fire to the works. But at the 
 prayers of the garrison, Montezuma himself interfered, and, mounting 
 the battlements, addressed the populace, whose fury he endeavored to 
 mitigate by urging considerations for his own safety. They respected 
 their monarch so far as to desist from further attempts to storm the for- 
 tress. but they threw up works around the palace to prevent the egress of 
 the Spaniards. They suspended the enemy’s supplies, then they quietly 
 sat down, with feelings of sullen desperation, waiting for the hour when 
 famine should throw their victims into their hands. 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 clxxvii 
 
 u Cortes listened calmly to the explanation made by Alvarado. 
 But, before it was ended, he was convinced that he had made 
 a wrong selection for this important post. Yet the mistake 
 was natural. Alvarado was a cavalier of high family, gallant, 
 and his warm personal friend. He had talents for action, was 
 possessed of firmness and intrepidity, while his frank and 
 dazzling manner made the Tonatiuh, as he was called by the 
 Mexicans, a special favorite with them. But underneath this 
 showy exterior the future conqueror of Guatemala concealed 
 a heart rash, rapacious, and cruel. 
 
 “ When Alvarado had concluded his answers to the several 
 interrogatories of Cortes , the brow of the latter darkened, as 
 he said to his lieutenant, ‘ You have been false to your trust. 
 Your conduct has been that of a madman! ’ And, turning 
 abruptly on his heel, he left him in undisguised displeasure. 
 
 “ On the day that Cortes arrived, Montezuma left his quar- 
 ters to welcome him. But the Spanish commander received 
 him coldly. Their relations were now those of prisoner and 
 jailer. In order to quiet the revolt of the people, Cortes re- 
 leased Montezuma’s brother, Cuitlahua, lord of Iztapalapan. 
 He was a bold, ambitious prince, and the injuries he had re- 
 ceived from the Spaniards rankled deep in his bosom. He 
 was an experienced warrior, and instead of quieting the popu- 
 lace he immediately exerted himself to arrange a definite plan 
 of operations against the intruders. 
 
 “The Spaniards were not kept in suspense. The Aztecs 
 made a desperate assault on the Spanish barracks, bombard- 
 ing them with a tempest of missiles — stones, darts, and ar- 
 rows — which fell thick as rain on the besieged. The ferocity 
 shown by the Mexicans seems to have been something for which 
 Cortes was wholly unprepared. They fought furiously through- 
 out the day, and the ancient walls of Tenochtitldn shook under 
 the thunders of the artillery, the fierce battle-cries of the com- 
 batants, the hissing sound of Indian missiles, and the shrieks 
 of the wounded and dying. Believing that the temporary 
 ebullition of the populace would soon waste itself by its own 
 fury, Cortes determined to sally out on the following day and 
 inflict such a chastisement on his foes as should bring them 
 to their senses and show who was master of the capital. 
 
 “With early dawn the Spaniards were up and under arms. 
 As the gray light of morning advanced, it showed the besieg- 
 ing army, filling up the great square and neighboring avenues 
 in more dense array than on the preceding evening. Before 
 the sun had shot his beams into the Castilian quarters, the 
 enemy were in motion. The Spanish commander determined 
 to anticipate them by a vigorous sortie, for which he had 
 llready made the necessary dispositions. 
 
 “ A general discharge of ordnance and musketry sent death 
 far and wide in the enemy’s ranks, and, before they had time to 
 
clxxviii 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 recover from their confusion, the gates were thrown open, and 
 Cortes , sallying out at the head of his cavalry, supported by 
 a large body of infantry and several thousand Tlascalans, rode 
 at full gallop against them. Taken thus by surprise, it was 
 scarcely possible to offer much resistance. Those who did were 
 trampled down under the horses’ feet, cut to pieces with the 
 broadswords, or pierced with the lances of the riders. The 
 infantry followed up the blow, and the rout for the moment 
 was general. 
 
 “Rallying on the other side of a barricade which had been 
 thrown across the street, the Aztecs poured in turn a volley 
 of their light weapons on the Spaniards, who, saluted with a 
 storm of missiles at the same time from the terraces of the 
 houses, were thrown into some disorder and checked in their 
 career. The canals were alive with boats filled with warriors, 
 who with their formidable darts searched every crevice or 
 weak place in the armor proof, and made havoc on the unpro- 
 tected bodies of the Tlascalans. By repeated and vigorous 
 charges the Spaniards succeeded in driving the Indians be- 
 fore them, though many, with a desperation which showed 
 they loved vengeance better than life, sought to embarrass the 
 movements of their horses by clinging to their legs, or, more 
 successfully, strove to pull the riders from their saddles. 
 And woe to the unfortunate cavalier who was thus dis- 
 mounted, — to be despatched by the brutal maquahuitl, or to 
 be dragged on board a canoe to the bloody altar of sacrifice ! 
 
 “ But the greatest annoyance which the Spaniards endured 
 was from the hail of missiles from the azoteas , consisting 
 often of large stones, hurled with a force that would tumble 
 the stoutest rider from the saddle. Galled in the extreme by 
 these discharges, against which even their shields afforded 
 no adequate protection, Cortes ordered fire to be set to the 
 buildings. But the buildings stood separated from one an- 
 other by canals and drawbridges, so that the flames did not 
 easily communicate to the neighboring edifices. Hence the 
 labor of the Spaniards was incalculably increased, and their 
 progress in the work of destruction was comparatively slow. 
 
 “They did not relax their efforts, however, till several hun- 
 dred houses had been consumed, and the miseries of a con- 
 flagration, in which the wretched inmates perished equally 
 with the defenders, were added to the other horrors of the 
 scene. But the Aztecs could better afford the loss of a hundred 
 lives than their antagonists that of one. And, while the Span- 
 iards showed an array broken and obviously thinned in num- 
 bers, the Mexican army, swelled by the tributary levies which 
 flowed in upon it from the neighboring streets, exhibited, 
 with all its loss, no sign of diminution. At length, sated with 
 ;amage, and exhausted by toil and hunger, the Spanish com- 
 mander drew off his men and sounded a retreat.” 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 clxxix 
 
 Storming of the Great Teocalli. “ Opposite the Span- 
 ish quarters, at only a few rods distance, stood the great 
 teocalli of Huitzilopochtli. This pyramidal mound, with the 
 sanctuaries that crowned it, rising altogether to the height 
 of near 150 ft., afforded an elevated position that completely 
 commanded the palace of Axayacatl. occupied by the Christ- 
 ians. A body of five or six hundred Mexicans, many of them 
 nobles and warriors of the highest rank, had got possession 
 of the teocalli, whence they discharged such a tempest of arrows 
 on the garrison that no one could leave his defences for a 
 moment without imminent danger ; while the Mexicans, under 
 shelter of the sanctuaries, were entirely covered from the fire 
 of the besieged. It was obviously necessary to dislodge the 
 enemy, if the Spaniards would remain longer in their quarters. 
 Cortes, who saw the immediate necessity of carrying the place, 
 determined to lead a storming party himself. He was then 
 suffering much from a wound in his left hand, which had dis- 
 abled it for the present. He made the arm serviceable, how- 
 ever, by fastening his buckler to it, and, thus crippled, sallied 
 out at the head of 300 chosen cavaliers and several thousand 
 of his auxiliaries. 
 
 “ In the court-yard of the temple he found a numerous body 
 of Indians prepared to dispute his passage. He briskly charged 
 them; but the flat smooth stones of the pavement were so 
 slippery that the horses lost their footing and many of them 
 fell. Hastily dismounting, they sent back the animals to their 
 quarters, and, renewing the assault, the Spaniards succeeded 
 without much difficulty in dispersing the Indian warriors and 
 opening a free passage for themselves to the teocalli. 
 
 u Cortes, having cleared a way for the assault, sprang up 
 the lower stairway, followed by Alvarado, Sandoval, Ordaz, 
 and the other gallant cavaliers of his little band, leaving a 
 file of arquebusiers and a strong corps of Indian allies to hold 
 the enemy in check at the foot of the monument. On the first 
 landing, as well as on the several galleries above, and on the 
 summit, the Aztec warriors were drawn up to dispute his 
 passage. From their elevated position they showered down 
 volleys of lighter missiles, together with heavy stones, beams, 
 and burning rafters, which, after thundering along the stair- 
 way, overturned the ascending Spaniards and carried desola- 
 tion through their ranks. But the assailants pressed on, 
 effectually supported by a brisk fire of the musketeers from 
 below, which so much galled the Mexicans in their exposed 
 situation that they were glad to take shelter on the broad 
 summit of the teocalli. 
 
 “ Cortes and his comrades were close upon their rear, and 
 the two parties soon found themselves face to face on this 
 aerial battlefield, engaged in mortal combat in presence of 
 the whole city, as well as of the troops in the court-yard, who 
 
clxxx 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 paused, as if by mutual consent, gazing in silent expectation 
 on the issue of hostilities above. The area, though somewhat 
 smaller than the base of the teocalli, was large enough to afford 
 a fair field of fight for a thousand combatants. It was paved 
 with broad, flat stones. No impediment occurred over its sur- 
 face, except the huge sacrificial block, and the temples of 
 stone which rose to the height of forty feet, at the further 
 extremity of the area. One of these had been consecrated to 
 the Cross. The other was still occupied by the Mexican war- 
 god. The Christian and the Aztec contended for their religion 
 under the very shadow of their respective shrines: while the 
 Indian priests, running to and fro, with their hair wildly stream- 
 ing over their sable mantles, seemed hovering in mid-air. like 
 so many demons of darkness urging on the work of slaughter. 
 
 “The parties closed with the desperate fury of men who 
 had no hope but in victory. Quarter was neither asked nor 
 given ; and to fly was impossible. The edge of the area was un- 
 protected by parapet or battlement. The least slip would be 
 fatal, and the combatants, as they struggled in mortal agony, 
 were sometimes seen to roll over the sheer sides of the preci- 
 pice together. Cortes himself had a narrow escape from the 
 dreadful fate. Two warriors seized on him and were dragging 
 him violently toward the brink of the pyramid. Aware of 
 their intention, he struggled with all his force, and, before they 
 could accomplish their purpose, succeeded in tearing himself 
 from their grasp and hurling one of them over the walls with 
 his own arm! 
 
 “The battle lasted with unremitting fury for three hours. 
 The number of the enemy was double that of the Christians, 
 but the invulnerable armor of the Spaniard, his sword of 
 matchless temper, and his skill in the use of it, gave him ad- 
 vantages which far outweighed the odds of physical strength 
 and numbers. Resistance grew fainter and fainter on the side 
 of the Aztecs. One after another they had fallen. Two or three 
 priests only survived, to be led away in triumph by the vic- 
 tors. Every other combatant was stretched a corpse on the 
 bloody arena, or had been hurled from the giddy heights. The 
 Spaniards lost 45 of their best men: and nearly all the remain- 
 der were more or less injured. 
 
 “The victorious cavaliers now rushed toward the sanctu- 
 aries. Penetrating into their recesses they had the mortifica- 
 tion to find the image of the Virgin and the Cross removed. 
 But in the other they beheld the grim figure of Huitzilopochtli y l 
 with his censer of smoking hearts, and the walls of his oratory 
 reeking with gore, — not improbably of their own country- 
 men ! With shouts of triumph the Christians tore the un- 
 couth monster from his niche, and tumbled him, in the pre- 
 
 1 This statue is now in the Museo Notional at Mexico City. 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 clxxxi 
 
 sence of the horror-struck Aztecs, down the steps of the 
 teocalli. They then set fire to the wooden tower of the ac- 
 cursed building. The flames speedily ran up the slender 
 towers, sending forth an ominous light over city, lake, and 
 valley, to the remotest hut among the mountains. It was the 
 funeral pyre of paganism, and proclaimed the fall of that 
 sanguinary religion which had so long hung like a dark cloud 
 over the fair regions of Anahuac. 
 
 “Having accomplished this good work, the Spaniards de- 
 scended the winding slopes of the teocalli with more free and 
 buoyant step, as if conscious that the blessing of Heaven now 
 rested on their arms. They passed through the dusky files of 
 Indian warriors in the court-yard, too much dismayed by the 
 appalling scenes they had witnessed to offer resistance, and 
 reached their own quarters in safety. That very night they 
 followed up the blow by a sortie on the sleeping town, and 
 burned 300 houses, the horrors of conflagration being made 
 still more impressive by occurring at the hour when the Aztecs, 
 from their own system of warfare, were least prepared for 
 them. 
 
 “Hoping to find the temper of the natives somewhat sub- 
 dued by these reverses, Cortes made them a vantage-ground for 
 proposing peace terms. In a parley with the principal chiefs 
 he pointed out that they had seen their gods trampled in the 
 dust, their altars broken, their dwellings burned, their war- 
 riors falling on all sides. ‘ This,’ he said, ‘ you have brought on 
 yourselves by your rebellion. If you do not lay down your 
 arms and return once more to your obedience, I will make 
 your city a heap of ruins, and leave not a soul alive to mourn 
 over it.' 
 
 “But the Spanish commander did not yet comprehend the 
 character of the Aztecs, if he thought to intimidate them 
 by menaces. It was true, they answered, he had destroyed 
 their temples, broken in pieces their gods, massacred their 
 countrymen. Many more doubtless were yet to fall under 
 their terrible swords. But they were content so long as for 
 every thousand Mexicans they could shed the blood of a single 
 white man ! 4 Look out/ they continued, ‘ on our terraces and 
 streets; see them still thronged with warriors as far as your 
 eyes can reach. Our numbers are scarcely diminished by our 
 losses. Yours, on the contrary, are lessening every hour. You 
 are perishing from hunger and sickness. Your provisions and 
 water are failing. You must soon fall into our hands. The 
 bridges are broken down , and you cannot escape ! There will 
 be too few of you left to glut the vengeance of our gods ! , As 
 they concluded, they sent a whole volley of arrows over the 
 battlements, which compelled the Spaniards to descend and 
 take refuge in their defences. 
 
 “The fierce and indomitable spirit of the Aztecs filled the 
 
clxxxii 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 besieged with dismay. The annunciation respecting the bridges 
 fell like a knell on their ears. All that they had heard was too 
 true; and they gazed on one another with looks of anxiety 
 and dismay. 
 
 “ A spirit of mutiny broke out, especially among the recent 
 levies drawn from the army of Narvaez , and the men de- 
 manded, with noisy vehemence, to be led instantly from the 
 city, and refused to serve longer in defence of a place where 
 they were cooped up like sheep in the shambles, waiting only 
 to be dragged to slaughter. In all this they were rebuked by 
 the more orderly, soldier-like conduct of the veterans of 
 Cortes. These latter had shared with their general the day of 
 his prosperity, and they were not disposed to desert him in 
 the tempest. 
 
 il Cortes calmly surveyed his condition, and weighed the 
 difficulties which surrounded him, before coming to a decision. 
 Independently of the hazard of a retreat in the face of a watch- 
 ful and desperate foe, it was a deep mortification to surrender 
 the city where he had so long lorded it as master, to abandon 
 the rich treasures which he had secured to himself and his 
 followers; to forego the very means by which he had hoped to 
 propitiate the favor of his sovereign and secure an amnesty 
 for his irregular proceedings. 
 
 “ In this condition he had yet to learn the tidings of a fresh 
 misfortune in the death of Montezuma. A short time before, 
 the Indian monarch had received a javelin wound while 
 addressing the infuriated people, and since receiving this 
 wound he had declined rapidly. Perceiving his end approach, 
 he summoned Cortes and recommended his three daughters to 
 his care. He earnestly commended these children to his pro- 
 tection, as ‘the most precious jewels that he could leave him.’ 
 He besought Cortes to care for them: to protect them from 
 the wrath of the people w T ho believed Montezuma a traitor to 
 them. On the 30th of June, 1520, he expired in the arms of 
 some of his own nobles, who still remained faithful to him. At 
 the time of his death Montezuma was forty years old. He had 
 reigned 18 years.” 
 
 d. The Retreat from Tenochtitlan. “As there was no 
 longer any question as to the expediency of evacuating the 
 capital, the Spanish commander called a council of officers to 
 deliberate on the matter. It was his purpose to retreat on 
 Tlascala, and there to decide on his future operations. The 
 general’s first care was to provide for the safe transportation 
 of the treasure. He delivered the share belonging to the Crown 
 to the royal officers, assigning them one of the strongest 
 horses, and a guard of soldiers to transport it. Much of the 
 treasure was necessarily abandoned, from the want of adequate 
 m&ins of conveyance. The metal lay in shining heaps along 
 the floor, exciting the cupidity of the soldiers. ‘Take what 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 clxxxiii 
 
 you will of it/ said Cortes to his men. ‘ Better you should have 
 it than these Mexican hounds. But be careful not to overload 
 yourselves. He travels safest in the dark night who travels 
 lightest.’ His own more wary followers took heed to his coun- 
 sel, but the common soldiers rushed on the treacherous spoil, 
 greedily loading themselves with as much as they could carry. 
 
 “ Cortes next arranged the order of march. The van, com- 
 posed of 200 Spanish foot, he placed under the command of 
 the valiant Gonzalo de Sandoval , supported by Diego de Ordaz f 
 Francisco de Lujo , and about twenty other cavaliers. The 
 rear-guard, constituting the strength of the infantry, was en- 
 trusted to Pedro de Alvarado , and Velasquez de Leon. The 
 general himself took charge of the ‘ battle’ or centre, in which 
 went the baggage, some of the heavy guns, the treasure, and 
 the prisoners. These consisted of a son and two daughters 
 of Montezuma, Cacama , the deposed lord of Tezcuco, and 
 several other nobles, whom Cortes retained as important 
 pledges in his future negotiations with the enemy. The 
 Tlascalans were distributed equally among the three divisions ; 
 and Cortes had under his immediate command a hundred 
 picked soldiers, his own veterans most attached to his serv- 
 ice, who, with Cristobal de Olid , Francisco de Morla , Alonso 
 de Avila , and two or three other cavaliers, formed a select 
 corps, to act wherever occasion might require. 
 
 “The general had already superintended the construction 
 of a portable bridge to be laid over the open canals in the 
 causeway. This was given in charge to an officer named Mar - 
 garino, with forty soldiers under his orders, all pledged to 
 defend the passage to the last extremity.” 
 
 e. La Noche Triste, or Sad Night. “At midnight the 
 troops were under arms, in readiness for the march. Mass was 
 performed by Father Olmedo, who invoked the protection of 
 the Almighty through the awful perils of the night. The gates 
 were thrown open, and on the first of July, 1520, the Spaniards 
 for the last time sallied forth from the walls of the ancient 
 fortress, the scene of so much suffering and such indomitable 
 courage. 
 
 “The night was cloudy, and a drizzling rain added to the 
 obscurity. The great square before the palace was deserted. 
 Steadily, as noiselessly as possible, the Spaniards held their 
 way along the great street of Tlacopan, which so lately had 
 resounded with the tumult of battle. All was now hushed in 
 silence, and they were only reminded of the past by the occa- 
 sional presence of some solitary corpse, or a dark heap of the 
 slain, which too plainly told where the strife had been hottest. 
 As they passed along the lanes and alleys, which opened into 
 the great street, or looked down the canals, whose polished sur- 
 face gleamed with a sort of ebon lustre through the obscurity 
 of night, they fancied that they discerned the shadowy forms 
 
clxxxiv 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 of their foe lurking in ambush and ready to spring on them. 
 But it was only fancy: the city slept undisturbed even by the 
 prolonged echoes of the tramp of the horses and the hoarse 
 rumbling of the artillery and baggage-trains. 
 
 “As the Spaniards drew near the spot where the street 
 opened on the causeway, and were preparing to lay the port- 
 able bridge across the uncovered breach, several Indian 
 sentinels who had been stationed here, took the alarm and 
 tied, rousing their countrymen by their cries. The priests, 
 keeping their night-watch on the summits of the teocallis , 
 instantly caught the tidings and sounded their shells, while 
 the huge drum in the desolate temple of the war-god sent forth 
 those solemn tones, heard only in seasons of calamity, which 
 vibrated through every comer of the capital. The Spaniards 
 saw that no time was to be lost. The bridge was brought for- 
 ward and fitted with all possible expedition. Sandoval was 
 the first to try its strength, and, riding across, was followed 
 by his little body of chivalry, his infantry, and the Tlascalan 
 allies who formed the first division of the army. Then came 
 Cortes and his squadrons, with the baggage, ammunition- 
 wagons, and a part of the artillery. But before they had time 
 to defile across the narrow passage, a gathering sound was 
 heard, like that of a might v forest agitated by the winds. It 
 grew louder and louder, while on the dark waters of the lake 
 was heard a plashing noise, as of many oars. Then came a 
 few stones and arrows striking at random among the hurrying 
 troops. They fell every moment faster and more furious, till 
 they thickened into a terrible tempest, while the very heavens 
 were rent with the yells and war-cries of a myriad combatants, 
 who seemed all at once to be swarming over land and lake. 
 
 “The Spaniards pushed steadily on through this arrowy 
 sleet, though the barbarians, dashing their canoes against the 
 sides of the causeway, clambered up and broke in upon their 
 ranks. But the Christians, anxious only to make their escape, 
 declined all combat except for self-preservation. The cavaliers, 
 spurring forward their steeds, shook off their assailants and 
 rode over their prostrate bodies, while the men on foot, 
 with their good swords or the butt of their pieces, drove them 
 headlong again down the sides of the dike. 
 
 “But the advance of several thousand men, marching on 
 a front of not more than twenty abreast, necessarily required 
 much time, and the leading files had already reached the sec- 
 ond breach in the causeway before those in the rear had entirely 
 traversed the first. Here they halted, and as they had no means 
 of effecting a passage, smarting all the while under uninter- 
 mitting volleys from the enemy, who were clustered thick on 
 the waters around this second opening, sorely distressed, the 
 vanguard sent repeated messages to the rear to demand the 
 portable bridge. At length the last of the army had crossed, 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 clxxxv 
 
 and Margarino and his sturdy followers endeavored to raise 
 the ponderous framework. But it stuck fast in the sides of the 
 dike. In vain they strained every nerve. The weight of so 
 many men and horses, and above all, the heavy artillery, had 
 wedged the timbers so firmly in the stones and earth that it 
 was beyond their power to dislodge them. Still they labored 
 amidst a torrent of missiles, until, many of them slain, and all 
 wounded, they were obliged to abandon the attempt. 
 
 “The tidings soon spread from man to man, and no sooner 
 was their dreadful import comprehended than a cry of despair 
 arose, which for a moment drowned all the noise of conflict. 
 All means of retreat were cut off. Scarcely hope was left. The 
 only hope was in such desperate exertions as each could make 
 for himself. Intense danger produced intense selfishness. 
 Each thought only of his own life. Pressing forward, he tram- 
 pled down the weak and wounded, heedless whether it were 
 friend or foe. The leading files, urged on by the rear, were 
 crowded on the brink of the gulf. Sandoval , Ordaz , and the 
 other cavaliers dashed into the water. Some succeeded in 
 swimming their horses across. Others failed, and some, who 
 reached the opposite bank, being overturned in the ascent, 
 rolled headlong with their steeds into the lake. The infantry 
 followed pell-mell, heaped promiscuously on one another, 
 frequently pierced by the shafts or struck down by the war- 
 clubs of the Aztecs: while many an unfortunate victim was 
 dragged half-stunned on board their canoes, to be reserved 
 for a protracted but more dreadful death. 
 
 “The carnage raged fearfully along the length of the cause- 
 way. Its shadowy bulk presented a mass of sufficient distinct- 
 ness for the enemy’s missiles, which often prostrated their 
 own countrymen in the blind fury of the tempest. Those 
 nearest the dike, running their canoes alongside, with a force 
 that shattered them to pieces, leaped on the land, and grap- 
 pled with the Christians, until both came rolling down the 
 causeway together. But the Aztec fell among his friends, 
 while his antagonist was borne away in triumph to the sacri- 
 fice. The struggle was long and deadly. The Mexicans were 
 recognized by their white cotton tunics, which showed faint 
 through the darkness. Above the combatants rose a wild and 
 discordant clamor, in which horrid shouts of vengeance were 
 mingled with groans of agony, with invocations of the saints 
 and the Blessed Virgin, and with screams of women; for there 
 were several women, both natives and Spaniards, who had 
 accompanied the Christian camp. Among these, one named 
 Maria de Estrada is particularly noticed for the courage she 
 displayed, battling with broadsword and target like the 
 stanchest of the warriors. 
 
 “The opening in the causeway, meanwhile, was filled up 
 with the wreck of matter which had been forced into it, am- 
 
clxxxvi 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 munition-wagons, heavy guns, bales of rich stuff scattered 
 over the waters, chests of solid ingots , 1 and bodies of men and 
 horses, till over this dismal ruin a passage was gradually 
 formed, by which those in the rear were enabled to clamber 
 to the other side. Cortes found a place that was fordable, and 
 halting, with the water up to his saddle-girths, he endeavored 
 to check the confusion, and lead his followers by a safer path 
 to the opposite bank. But his voice was lost in the wild up- 
 roar, and finally, hurrying on with the tide, he pressed forward 
 with a few trusty cavaliers, but not before he had seen his 
 favorite page, Juan de Salazar, struck down, a corpse, by his 
 side. Here he found Sandoval and his companions, halting 
 before the third and last breach, endeavoring to cheer on 
 their followers to surmount it. But their resolution faltered. 
 It was wide and deep, though not so closely beset by the 
 enemy as the preceding ones. The cavaliers again set the 
 example by plunging into the water. Horse and foot followed 
 as they could, some swimming, others with dying grasp cling- 
 ing to the manes and tails of the struggling animals. Those 
 fared best, as the general had predicted, who travelled lightest; 
 and many were the unfortunate wretches who, weighed down 
 by the fatal gold which they loved so well, were buried with it 
 in the salt floods of the lake. Cortes, with his gallant comrades, 
 Olid, Morla, Sandoval, and some few others, still kept in the 
 advance, leading his broken remnant off the fatal causeway. 
 The din of battle lessened in the distance; when the rumor 
 reached them that the rear-guard would be wholly over- 
 whelmed without speedy relief. It seemed almost an act of 
 desperation : but the generous hearts of the Spanish cavaliers 
 did not stop to calculate danger when the cry for succor 
 reached them. Turning their horses, they galloped back to 
 the theatre of action, worked their way through the press, 
 swam the canal, and placed themselves in the thick of the 
 melee on the opposite bank. 
 
 “ The first gray of the morning was now coming over the 
 waters. It showed the hideous confusion of the scene which 
 had been shrouded in the obscurity of night. The dark masses 
 of combatants, stretching along the dike, were seen struggling 
 for mastery, until the very causeway on which they stood 
 appeared to tremble, as if shaken by an earthquake; while 
 the bosom of the lake, as far as the eye could reach, was dark- 
 ened by canoes crowded with warriors, whose spears and 
 bludgeons, armed with blades of volcanic glass, gleamed in 
 the morning light. 
 
 “The cavaliers found Alvarado unhorsed, and defending 
 himself with a poor handful of followers against an over- 
 whelming tide of the enemy. His good steed, which had 
 
 1 One witness estimates that over 2,000,000 pesos were lost during that 
 night. 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 clxxxvii 
 
 borne him through many a hard fight, had fallen under him. 
 He was himself wounded in several places, and was striving 
 in vain to rally his scattered column, which was driven to the 
 verge of the canal by the fury of the enemy, then in possession 
 of the whole rear of the causeway. The artillery in the earlier 
 part of the engagement had not been idle, and its iron shower, 
 sweeping along the dike, had mowed down the assailants by 
 hundreds. But nothing could resist their impetuosity. The 
 front ranks, pushed on by those behind, were at length forced 
 up to the pieces, and, pouring over them like a torrent, over- 
 threw men and guns in one general ruin. The resolute charge 
 of the Spanish cavaliers, who had now arrived, created a 
 temporary check, and gave time for their countrymen to 
 make a feeble rally. But they were speedily borne down by 
 the returning flood. Cortes and his companions were com- 
 pelled to plunge again into the lake, though all did not escape. 
 Alvarado stood on the brink for a moment, hesitating what 
 to do. Unhorsed as he was, to throw himself into the water, 
 in the face of the hostile canoes that swarmed around the 
 opening, afforded but a desperate chance of safety. He was 
 a man of powerful frame, and despair gave him unnatural 
 energy. Setting his long lance firmly on the wreck which 
 strewed the bottom of the lake, he sprung forward with all his 
 might, and cleared the wide gap at a leap ! Aztecs and Tlas- 
 calans gazed in stupid amazement, exclaiming, as they be- 
 held the incredible feat, ‘ This is truly the Tonatiuh, the child 
 of the Sun ! 1 The breadth of the opening is not given. But 
 it was so great that the valorous captain, Diaz , who well re- 
 membered the place, says the leap was impossible to any 
 man. To this day the spot is familiarly known to every in- 
 habitant of the capital ; and the name of the Calle del Puente 
 de Alvarado [p. 339] — street of the Bridge of Alvarado — still 
 commemorates the exploit. 
 
 “ Cortes and his followers now rode forward to the front, where 
 the troops were marching off the fatal causeway. The atten- 
 tion of the Aztecs was diverted to the rich spoil that strewed 
 the battle-ground, and, but little molested, the jaded Span- 
 iards were allowed to defile through the adjacent suburb of 
 Popotla. 
 
 “The Great Captain there dismounted from his tired steed, 
 and sitting beneath a giant tree [comp. p. 418] gazed mournfully 
 on the broken files as they passed before him. The cavalry, 
 most of them dismounted, were mingled with the infantry, who 
 dragged their feeble limbs along wdth difficulty ; their shattered 
 mail and tattered garments dripping with the salt ooze, show- 
 ing through their rents many a bruise and ghastly wound, 
 their bright arms soiled, their proud crests and banners gone, 
 the baggage, artillery, and all that constitutes the pride and 
 panoply of glorious war, forever lost. Cortes , as he looked 
 
clxxxviii 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 wistfully on their thin and disordered ranks, sought in vain 
 for many a familiar face, and missed more than one dear com- 
 panion who had stood side by side with him through all the 
 perils of the Conquest . Though accustomed to control his emo- 
 tions, the sight was too much for him. He covered his face 
 with his hands, and the tears 'which trickled down revealed 
 too plainly the anguish of his soul. 
 
 “ He found some consolation, however, in the sight of several 
 of the cavaliers on whom he most relied. Alvarado , Sandoval , 
 Olid , Ordaz , Avila , were yet safe. He had the inexpressible 
 satisfaction, also, of learning the safety of Marina , the Indian 
 interpreter. Aguilar, the other interpreter, had also escaped. 
 And it was with no less satisfaction that Cortes learned the 
 safety of the ship-builder, Martin Lopez. The general’s solici- 
 tude for the fate of this man, so indispensable to the success 
 of his subsequent operations, showed that, amidst all his 
 affliction, his indomitable spirit was looking forward to the 
 hour of revenge. 
 
 “The loss sustained by the Spaniards on this fatal night, 
 according to Cortes's own letter, did not exceed one hundred 
 and fifty Spaniards and two thousand Indians. But Thoan 
 Cano , one of the cavaliers present, estimated the slain at 
 1,170 Spaniards and 8,000 allies. Forty-six of the cavalry 
 were cut off. The greater part of the treasure, the baggage, 
 the general’s papers, including a minute diary of transactions 
 since leaving Cuba, were swallowed up by the waters. The 
 ammunition, the beautiful little train of artillery with which 
 Cortes had entered the city, were all gone. Not a musket re- 
 mained, the men having thrown them away, lest they retard 
 their escape on that disastrous night. Such were the results 
 of this terrible passage of the causeway; more disastrous than 
 those occasioned by any other reverse which had stained the 
 Spanish arms in the New World ; and which have branded 
 the night on which it happened, in the national annals, with 
 the name of la noche triste, 1 the melancholy night.’ ” 
 
 /. Siege and Downfall of Tenochtitlan. “In the spring 
 of 1521 we find the Great Captain once more in the Valley 
 of Mexico, blockading and besieging the ancient Aztec city. 
 Provided with fresh arms and military stores; with fresh re- 
 cruits and an inexhaustible supply of new energy; strongly 
 supported bv thousands of Indian allies thirsting for the com- 
 plete annihilation of the Aztec stronghold, the Spanish com- 
 mander set about the downfall of the doomed city with a 
 singleness of purpose that brooked no defeat. Building a num- 
 ber of brigantines, he launched them on the lake and defeated, 
 in a bloody encounter, the Indian flotilla that came to meet 
 them. Day after day the intrepid Aztecs sallied out to meet 
 the Spaniards, and as frequently were they forced back. For 
 weeks and months the invaders lived a life of incessant toil 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 clxxxix 
 
 almost too severe for even their stubborn constitutions. Many 
 of their desperate assaults were repulsed by the besieged, whose 
 proud spirit seemed not to weaken, albeit famine was now 
 gradually working its way into the heart of the beleaguered 
 city. On one occasion the Spaniards made a general assault 
 on the city, but they were defeated with such loss that for a 
 time their position was critical. 
 
 “A day was fixed for the final assault, which was to be 
 made simultaneously by the two divisions under Alvarado 
 and the commander-in-chief. Sandoval was instructed to 
 draw off the greater part of his besieging forces from the 
 northern causeway and to unite himself with Alvarado , while 
 seventy picked soldiers were to be detached to the support 
 of Cortes. On the appointed morning the two armies advanced 
 along their respective causeways against the city. They were 
 supported, in addition to the brigantines, by a numerous fleet 
 of Indian boats, and by a countless multitude of allies, whose 
 very numbers served in the end to embarrass their operations. 
 Cortes divided his forces into three bodies. One of them he 
 placed under Alder ete, with orders to occupy the principal 
 street. A second he gave in charge to Andres de Tapia and 
 Jorge de Alvarado; the former a cavalier of courage and ca- 
 pacity, the latter a younger brother of Don Pedro , and pos- 
 sessed of the intrepid spirit which belonged to that chivalrous 
 family. These were to penetrate by one of the parallel streets, 
 while the general himself, at the head of the third division, 
 was to occupy the other. A small body of cavalry, with two 
 or three field-pieces, was stationed as a reserve in front of the 
 great street of Tacuba, which was designated as the rallying- 
 point for the different divisions. 
 
 “ Cortes gave the most positive instructions to the captains 
 not to advance a step without securing the means of retreat 
 by carefully filling up the ditches and the openings of the cause- 
 ways. The neglect of this precaution by Alvarado, in an assault 
 which he had made on the city but a few days before, had 
 been attended with such serious consequences to the army 
 that Cortes rode over to his officer’s quarters for the purpose 
 of publicly reprimanding him for his disobedience of orders. 
 On his arrival at the camp, however, he found that his offend- 
 ing captain had conducted the affair with such gallantry that 
 the intended reprimand subsided into a mild rebuke. 
 
 “The arrangements being completed, the three divisions 
 marched at once up the several streets. Cortes, dismounting, 
 took the van of his own squadron, at the head of his infantry. 
 The Mexicans fell back as he advanced, making less resistance 
 than usual. The Spaniards pushed on, carrying one barri- 
 cade after another, and carefully filling up the gaps with rub- 
 bish, so as to secure themselves a footing. The canoes supported 
 the attack, by moving along the canals, and grappling with 
 
cxc 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 those of the enemy; while numbers of the nimble-footed 
 Tlascalans, scaling the terraces, passed from one house to i 
 another, hurling the defenders into the streets below. The I 
 enemy, taken apparently by surprise, seemed incapable of 1 
 withstanding the fury of the assault. The facility of his i 
 success led Cortes to suspect that he was advancing "too fast, j 
 Determined to trust no eyes but his own, he proceeded to 
 reconnoitre the route followed by his victorious troops. 
 
 “ His conjecture proved too true. Alderete had followed the j 
 retreating Aztecs with an eagerness which increased with 
 every step of his advance. He had carried the barricades J 
 which had defended the breach, and, as he swept on, gave 1 
 orders that the opening should be stopped. But the blood of 1 
 the high-spirited cavaliers was warmed by the chase, and no j 
 one cared to be detained by the ignoble occupation of filling I 
 up the ditches. In this way they suffered themselves to be ] 
 decoyed into the heart of the city. Suddenly the horn of 1 
 Guatemozin — the sacred symbol, heard only in seasons of 1 
 extraordinary peril — sent forth a long and piercing note 1 
 from the summit of a neighboring teocolli. In an instant, the I 
 flying Aztecs, as if maddened by the blast, wheeled about and ] 
 turned on their pursuers. At the same time, countless swarms 1 
 of warriors from the adjoining streets and lanes poured in ! 
 upon the flanks of the assailants, filling the air with the fierce, 
 unearthly cries which had reached the ears of Cortes , and 
 drowning, for a moment, the wild dissonance which reigned in 
 the other quarters of the capital. 
 
 “The army, taken by surprise, and shaken by the fury of 
 the assault, was thrown into the utmost disorder. Friends 
 and foes, white men and Indians, were mingled together in 
 one promiscuous mass. Spears, swords, and war-clubs were 
 brandished together in the air. Blows fell at random. In 
 their eagerness to escape they trod down one another. Blinded 
 by the missiles which now rained on them from the ojzoteas , 
 they staggered on, scarcely knowing in what direction, or I 
 fell, struck down by hands which they could not see. On they 
 came, like a rushing torrent sweeping along some steep decliv- 
 ity, and rolling in one confused tide toward the open breach, 
 on the farther side of which stood Cortes and his companions, 
 horror-struck at the sight of the approaching ruin. The fore- 
 most files soon plunged into the gulf, treading one another 
 under the flood, some striving ineffectually to swim, others, 
 with more success, to clamber over the heaps of their suffo- 
 cated comrades. Many, as they attempted to scale the oppo- 
 site sides of the slippery dike, fell into the water, or were 
 hurried off by the warriors in canoes, who added to the horror 
 of the rout by the fresh storm of darts and javelins which they 
 poured on the fugitives. 
 
 “ Cortes , with his brave followers, kept his station undaunted 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 CXCl 
 
 on the other side of the breach. With outstretched hands he 
 endeavored to rescue as many as he could from the watery 
 grave, and from the more appalling fate of captivity. He as 
 vainly tried to restore something like presence of mind and 
 order among the distracted fugitives. His person was well 
 known to the Aztecs, and his position now made him a con- 
 spicuous mark for their weapons. Stones, darts, and arrows 
 fell around him as thick as hail, but glanced harmless from 
 his steel helmet and armor. At length a cry of ‘ Malinche, 
 Malinche ,’ arose among the enemy; and six of their number, 
 strong and athletic warriors, rushing on him at once, made a 
 violent effort to drag him on board their boat. In the struggle 
 he received a severe wound in the leg, which, for the time, dis- 
 abled it. There seemed to be no hope for him : when a faithful 
 follower, Cristobal de Olea, perceiving his general’s extremity, 
 threw^ himself on the Aztecs, and with a blow cut off the arm 
 of one savage, and then plunged his sword in the body of an- 
 other. He was quickly supported by a comrade named Lerma , 
 and by a Tlascalan chief, who, fighting over the body of the 
 prostrate Cortes , despatched three more of the assailants, 
 though the heroic Olea paid dearly for his self-devotion, as he 
 fell mortally wounded by the side of his general. 
 
 “With the aid of his cavaliers Cortes at length succeeded 
 in regaining the firm ground and reaching the open place 
 before the great street of Tacuba. Here, under a sharp fire 
 of the artillery, he rallied his broken squadrons and beat off 
 the enemy. 
 
 “That night the jaded Spaniards from their camp saw a 
 long file of priests and warriors climbing to the flat summit 
 of the teocalli. Among them were several men stripped to the 
 waist, some of whom, by the whiteness of their skins, they 
 recognized as their own countrymen. Their heads were gaud- 
 ily decorated with coronals of plumes, and they carried fans 
 in their hands. They were urged along by blows, and com- 
 pelled to take part in the dances in honor of the Aztec war- 
 god. The unfortunate captives, soon stripped of their sad 
 finery, were stretched, one after another, on the great stone 
 of sacrifice. 
 
 “We may imagine with what sensations the stupefied Span- 
 iards must have gazed on this horrid spectacle, so near that 
 they could almost recognize the persons of their unfortunate 
 friends, see the struggles and writhings of their bodies, hear 
 their screams of agony! Their limbs trembled beneath them 
 as they thought what might one day be their own fate : and 
 the bravest among them, who had hitherto gone to battle 
 as careless and light-hearted as to the banquet-room, were 
 unable, from this time forward, to encounter their ferocious 
 enemy without a sickening feeling, much akin to fear, coming 
 over them. 
 
CXC11 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 “ But amidst all the distress and multiplied embarrassments 
 of their situation, the Spaniards still remained true to their 
 purpose. They relaxed in no degree the severity of the block- 
 ade. Their camps still occupied the only avenues to the city, I 
 and their batteries, sweeping down the long defiles at every 
 fresh assault of the Aztecs, mowed down hundreds of thel 
 assailants. 
 
 “ Soon there was no occasion to resort to artificial means to 
 precipitate the ruin of the Aztecs. It was accelerated every 
 hour by causes more potent than those arising from human 
 agency. Pent up in their suffocating quarters, nobles, com- 
 moners, and slaves, men, women, and children, faced inevitable! 
 starvation. They wandered about in search of anything that 
 might mitigate the fierce gnawings of hunger. Some hunted i 
 for insects and worms on the borders of the lake, or gathered 
 the salt weeds and moss from its bottom, while at times they 
 might be seen casting a wistful look at the green hills beyond, 
 which many of them had left to share the fate of their breth- 
 ren in the capital. Hundreds of famished wretches died every: 
 day from extremity of suffering. 
 
 “ Cortes offered the dying Aztecs a chance to capitulate, but 
 they refused. As long as they were able to stand they madei 
 murderous assaults on the Spanish camps, to be ruthlessly; 
 beaten back or slaughtered by the invaders. 
 
 “It was the memorable 13th of August, 1521, the day ofi 
 St. Hip poly tus, — from this circumstance selected as the patron 
 saint of modern Mexico, — that Cortes led his warlike array 
 for the last time across the black and blasted environs which 
 lay around the Indian capital. On entering the Aztec pre- 
 cincts, he paused, willing to afford its wretched inmates one 
 more chance to escape before striking the fatal blow. He 
 obtained an interview with some of the principal chiefs, and 
 expostulated with them on the conduct of their prince. 4 Hei 
 surely will not,’ said the general, ‘see you all perish, when 
 he can so easily save you.’ He then urged them to prevail] 
 on Guatemozin to hold a conference with him, repeating the 
 assurance of his personal safety. 
 
 “The messengers went on their mission, and soon returned 
 with the cihuacoatl at their head, a magistrate of high author- 
 ity among the Mexicans. He said, with a melancholy air, 
 that ‘ Guatemozin was ready to die where he w’as, but would 
 hold no interview with the Spanish commander’: adding, 
 in a tone of resignation, ‘ it is for you to work your pleasure/ 
 ‘Go, then,’ replied the stern conqueror, ‘and prepare your 
 countrymen for death. Their hour is come/ 
 
 “He still postponed the assault fop several hours. But thei 
 impatience of his troops at this delay was heightened by 
 the rumor that Guatemozin and his nobles were preparing to 
 escape with their effects in piraguas and canoes which were 
 
HISTORY AND RACES cxciii 
 
 moored on the margin of the lake. Convinced of the impolicy 
 of further procrastination, Cortes made his final disposition for 
 the attack, and took his own station on an azotea which com- 
 manded the theatre of operations. 
 
 “ When the assailants came into the presence of the enemy, 
 they found them huddled together in the utmost confusion, 
 all ages and sexes, in masses so dense that they nearly forced 
 one another over the brink of the causeways into the water 
 below. Some had climbed on the terraces, others feebly 
 supported themselves against the walls of the buildings. 
 Their squalid and tattered garments gave a wildness to their 
 appearance which still further heightened the ferocity of 
 their expression, as they glared on their enemy with eyes in 
 which hate was mingled with despair. When the Spaniards 
 had approached within bowshot, the Aztecs let off a flight 
 of impotent missiles, showing to the last the resolute spirit of 
 their better days. The fatal signal was then given by the 
 discharge of an arquebuse, — speedily followed by peals of 
 heavy ordnance, the rattle of firearms, and the hellish shouts 
 of the confederates as they sprang upon their victims. It is 
 unnecessary to stain the page with a repetition of the horrors 
 of the preceding day. Some of the wretched Aztecs threw 
 themselves into the water and were picked up by canoes. 
 Others sank and were suffocated in the canals. The number 
 of these became so great that a bridge was made of their dead 
 bodies, over which the assailants could climb to the opposite 
 banks. Others again, especially the women, begged for mercy, 
 which, as the chroniclers assure us, was everywhere granted 
 by the Spaniards, and, contrary to the instructions of Cortes , 
 everywhere refused by the confederates. 
 
 “While this work of butchery was going on, numbers were 
 observed pushing off in the barks that lined the shore, and 
 making the best of their way across the lake. They were con- 
 stantly intercepted by the brigantines, which broke through 
 the flimsy array of boats, sending off their volleys right and 
 left, as the crews of the latter hotly assailed them. The battle 
 raged as fiercely on the lake as on land. 
 
 “ Sandoval had particularly charged his captains to keep 
 an eye on the movements of any vessel in which it was at all 
 probable that Guatemozin might be concealed. At this crisis 
 three or four of the largest piraguas were seen skimming over 
 the water and making their way rapidly to the shore. A cap- 
 tain named Garcia Holguin came alongside one of the piraguas , 
 and ordered his men to level their cross-bows at the boat. But 
 before they could discharge them a cry arose from those in 
 it that their lord was on board. At the same moment a young 
 warrior, armed with buckler and maquahuitl, rose up, as if 
 to beat off the assailants. But as the Spanish captain ordered 
 his men not to shoot, he dropped his weapons, and exclaimed, 
 
CXC1V 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 ‘I am Guatemozin. Lead me to Malinche: I am his prisoner: 
 but let no harm come to my wife and my followers. 5 
 
 “ The news of Guatemozin' s capture spread rapidly through 
 the fleet, and on shore. When the warriors heard it they ceased 
 fighting. It seemed as if the fight had been maintained thus 
 long to divert the enemy’s attention and cover their master’s 
 retreat. 
 
 “ On the day following the surrender, Guatemozin requested 
 the Spanish commander to allow the Mexicans to leave the ! 
 city and to pass unmolested into the open country. To this i 
 Cortes readily assented. The whole number who departed from 
 the stricken place is estimated at from thirty to seventy thou- | 
 sand, besides women and children who had survived the sword, f 
 pestilence, and famine. Of the whole number who perished 
 in the course of the siege it is impossible to form any accurate I 
 computation. The accounts range widely, from 120,000, the | 
 lowest estimate, to 240,000. The number of Spaniards who t 
 fell was comparatively small. The historian of Tezcuco asserts 
 that 30,000 of his own countrymen perished. 
 
 “The booty found by the Spaniards fell far below their 
 expectations. It did not exceed, according to the general’s 
 statement, a hundred and thirty thousand Castellanos of gold, 
 including the sovereign’s share, which, indeed, taking into 
 account many articles of curious and costly workmanship, 
 voluntarily relinquished by the army, greatly exceeded his 
 legitimate fifth. It is believed that the Aztecs sunk vast 
 treasures in the waters of the lake. 
 
 “Thus, after a siege of nearly three months’ duration, 
 unmatched in history for the constancy and courage of the 
 besieged, seldom surpassed for the severity of its sufferings, 
 fell the renowned capital of the Aztecs.” (Prescott’s Conquest.) 
 
 g. The Vice-Regal Period. Mexico was under the iron rule 
 of Spain from 1521 to 1821, and during those three centuries 
 it was ruled by five {Reman Cortes first) Governors (1521-28), 
 two Audiencias (1528-35), and sixty- two Viceroys (1535-1821). 
 the last of whom was Francisco Novella . Personal ambition 
 and religious zeal stimulated Cortes to the Conquest, and 
 covetousness and the love of power were the salient character- 
 istics of many of the peruked and bespangled rulers who fol- 
 lowed him. These viceroys ( virreyes ) were for the most part 
 Spanish nobles, prelates, or court politicians, who sought the 
 position for selfish purposes and with the idea of repairing 
 their dilapidated fortunes in the New World. They ruled over 
 one of the most extensive empires of the world — a colony 
 which extended over 20 degrees of latitude, which embraced 
 every known climate, and which contained millions of human 
 beings. They were responsible only to the King of Spain and 
 the powerful Consejo de las Indias (thousands of miles away), 
 and during their incumbency of office, the conquered territory 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 cxcv 
 
 was exploited for the Viceroys, the Church, and the Spanish 
 Crown. The vice-regal salary was forty thousand pesos a year 
 (raised in 1689 to $70,000), and despite enormous expendi- 
 tures, some of these petty kings were enabled to return to 
 Spain after a lapse of a few years with vast fortunes wrung 
 from the coerced and enslaved natives. Foreigners were ex- 
 cluded from the country, education was monopolized by the 
 clergy, and the best land, the most profitable commerce, and 
 the most influential government offices were held by the native 
 Spaniards. But among the men of this long vice-regal succes- 
 sion were some whose ambition was to uplift the oppressed 
 Indians and to govern their country for them, wisely and 
 well. Their names are conspicuous in Mexican history and 
 their memory is revered by the people. 
 
 Antonio de Mendoza ( Conde de Tendilla y Comendador de 
 Socuellanos) , the 1st Viceroy (1535-50), was distinguished for 
 his humane efforts to mitigate the hardships of the enslaved 
 Indians. He sent expeditions northward on voyages of dis- 
 covery; founded the cities of Valladolid (now Morelia) and 
 Guadalajara; issued the first money minted in Mexico; aided 
 Fray Pedro de Gante to establish schools, — particularly the 
 celebrated school of Santiago Tlaltelolco , — and caused the 
 first printing-press to be brought from Spain. The noble 
 missionary Fray Bartolome de las Casas reached Mexico during 
 his reign and received his ardent support. The mines of 
 Guanajuato and Zacatecas were exploited. The admirable 
 precedent of this benevolent man strongly influenced 
 
 Luis de Velasco, 2d V. (1550-64). The example of Las 
 Casas (“ Defender of the Indians”) for good was so great that 
 Velasco emancipated 150,000 Indians enslaved by Spanish 
 landowners. He founded (1553) the first University in New 
 Spain, and the Hospital Real; distributed Crown Lands 
 among the Indians ; and by means of expeditions northward, 
 
 , he essayed to pacify and civilize the nomad tribes of those 
 i regions. One of his captains discovered the still enormously 
 productive silver-mines of Fresnillo and Sombrerete. Silao, 
 Durango, and San Miguel de Allende were founded during his 
 reign, and the great Dike of San Lazaro was built. He died 
 in Mex. City July 31, 1564, and he is revered as the great 
 “ emancipator.” 
 
 Gaston de Peralta, 3d V. (1566-68), was succeeded by 
 
 Martin Enriquez de Almanza (Knight of Santiago), 4th V. 
 (1568-80). He was known as the “Inquisitor,” because the 
 Inquisition was established in Mexico during his reign. During 
 his incumbency of office the Jesuits reached Mexico (1572); 
 the corner-stone of the Mex. City Cathedral was laid (1573), 
 and the city of Leon was founded (1576). During the time of 
 
 Lorenzo Juarez de Mendoza , 5th V. (1580-84), the fabulously 
 rich mines of San Luis Potosf were discovered. 
 
CXCV1 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 Pedro Moya de Contreras (Archbishop of Mexico), the 6th 
 V. (15S4), was succeeded (in 1585) by 
 
 Alvaro Manriquez de Zuniga {Marques de Villa Manrique ), 
 7th Y. (15S5-90) , wiio extended the commerce between Mexico 
 and the Far East. 
 
 Luis de Velasco {Marques de Salinas), a son of the “ Emanci- 
 pator, ” was the 8th V. (1590-95). He framed just laws for the 
 protection of the Indians, and was a wise and benevolent 
 ruler. 
 
 Gaspar de Zuniga y Acevedo (Count of Monterey), the 9th 
 V. (1595-1603), extended the Spanish dominions into Cali- 
 fornia, founded there the town of Monterey, another of the 
 same name in the Mexican state of Nuevo Leon, and Santa Fe 
 in New Mexico. He also conveyed to Spain the astounding 
 information that since the coming of the Spaniards to Mexico, 
 the native population had fallen off three fourths ! 
 
 Juan Manuel Hurtado de Mendoza y Luna {Marques de 
 Montesclaros ), 10th Y. (1603-07), was succeeded by 
 
 Luis de Velasco, who returned from Peru and became Yiceroy 
 (11th), for the second time (1607-11). The great Cut of 
 Huehuetoca (p. 135), aimed to drain the Yalley of Mexico, 
 was begun by his order. 
 
 Archbishop Garcia Guerra, 12th V. (1611-12). 
 
 Diego Fernandez de Cordova {Marques de Guadalcazar ) , 
 13th V. (1612-21). 
 
 Diego Carrillo de Mendoza y Pimentel {Conde de Priego y 
 Marques de Gelves ), 14th Y. (1621- 24). 
 
 Rodrigo Pacheco Osorio {Marques de Cerralvo), 15th V* 
 (1624-35). 
 
 Lope Diaz de Armendariz, 16th V. (1635-40). 
 
 Diego Lopez Pacheco Cabrera y Bobadilla {Duque de Escalona 
 y Marques de Villena), 17th V. (1640-42). 
 
 Juan de Palafox y Mendoza (Bishop of Puebla), 18th Y. 
 (for about 5 months). 
 
 Garcia Sarmiento de Sotomayor (Count of Salvatierra) , 19th 
 V. (1642-48). 
 
 Marcos Lopez de Torres y Rueda (Bishop of Yucatan), 20th] 
 V. (1648-50), was a zealous bigot, who caused 15 persons to 
 be strangled and burned by the Inquisition. 
 
 Luis Enriquez de Guzman (Count of Alba Liste ), 21st V. 
 (1650-53). 
 
 Francisco Fernandez de la Cueva {Duque de Albuquerque ), 
 22d V. (1653-60). 
 
 Juan de Leiva y de la Cerda {Marques de Leiva y de Ladrada), 
 23d V. (1660-64). 
 
 Diego Osorio de Escobar y Llamas (Bishop of Puebla), 24th 
 V. (for a few months in 1664) was succeeded by 
 
 Antonio Sebastian de Toledo , Molina y Salazar , 25th V. 
 (1664-73). 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 CXCVll 
 
 Pedro Nuno Colon de Portugal y Castro ( Duque de Veraguas ), 
 26th V. (for six days in 1673). 
 
 Fray Payo Enriquez de Rivera (Archbishop of Mexico), 27th 
 V. (1673-80), was a wise and progressive ruler, untainted 
 by the bigotry which at that time was a clerical trait. 
 
 Tomas Antonio Manrique de la Cerda , 28th Y. (1680-86), 
 
 Melchor Portocarrero Laso de la Vega (Count of Monclova), 
 29th V. (1686-88), founded Monclova (State of Coahuila), and 
 built, at his own expense, the great aqueduct which formerly 
 brought water from Chapultepec to Mexico City. 
 
 Gaspar de la Cerda Sandoval Silva y Mendoza ( Conde de 
 Galve) , 30th V. (1688-96), accomplished the Conquest of Texas 
 (1691) ; founded (1692) the city of Pensacola (Florida) ; sent 
 many colonists to New Mexico, and proved an energetic, 
 far-sighted, and just ruler. During his reign the first Amer- 
 ican newspaper, El Mer curio Volante , was established. 
 
 Juan de Ortega Montanez (Bishop of Michoacan), 31st V, 
 (1696), was replaced by 
 
 Jose Sarmiento Valladares ( Conde de Montezuma) , 32d V. 
 (1696-1701), who wedded Maria Andrea Montezuma , third 
 Countess and fourth in descent from Montezuma 11 , through 
 his son, 1 Pedro J ohualicahuatzin Montezuma. 
 
 Juan de Ortega Montanez became Viceroy (33d) a second 
 time in 1701. 
 
 Fernandez de la Cueva Enriquez ( Duque de Albuquerque ), 
 34th V. (1701-11), colonized New Mexico and founded the pre- 
 sent town of Albuquerque (U. S. A.). 
 
 Fernando de Alencastro Marona y Silva ( Marques de 
 V aldafuentes) , 35th V . (1711-16). 
 
 Baltazar de Zuniga Guzman Sotomayor y Mendosa , 36th V. 
 (1716-22). 
 
 Juan de Acuna ( Marques de Casafuerte), 37th V, (1722-34), 
 conducted the affairs of the Province in a liberal and enlight- 
 ened way. He was a Peruvian, and the only American-born 
 Viceroy. 
 
 Juan Antonio de Vizarron y Eguiarreta (Archbishop of 
 Mexico), 38th V. (1734-40). 
 
 Pedro de Castro Figueroa y Salazar , 39th V. (1740-42). 
 
 Pedro Cebrian y Agustin (Conde de Fuenclara), 40th V. 
 (1742-46), made the first effort to collect and tabulate prac- 
 tical statistical information concerning Mexico. 
 
 Juan Francisco deGiiemes y Horcasitas, 41st V. (1746-55). 
 
 Agustin de Ahumada y Villalon , 42d V. (1755-60). 
 
 1 The Spaniards impressed their wishes and their personality so strongly 
 on the Indians that many of these subjects— some through inclination, 
 others through fear— discarded their own names for Spanish titles. In 
 certain cases proper names were retained and Castilian Christian names 
 
 were added. 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 cxcviii 
 
 Francisco Cajigal de la Vega (ex-Govemor of Cuba), 43d 
 V. for a brief period. 
 
 Joaquin de Monserrat ( Marques de Cruillas), 44th V. (1760- 
 66), organized for the first time a regular army in Mexico. 
 
 Carlos Francisco de Croix (. Marques de Croix), 45th Y. 
 (1766-71), raised the salary of the Mexican Viceroys from 
 840,000 to 870,000 a year. Many civic improvements. He 
 doubled the size of the Alameda ; sent a royal convoy to Spain 
 (1770) with thirty millions of silver pesos, and was instru- 
 mental in enforcing the royal order (of June 25, 1767) which 
 expelled the Jesuits from Mexico. An able ruler. 
 
 Antonio Maria de Bucareli y JJrsxia, 46th Y. (1771-79), 
 a wise, benevolent , and thoroughly admirable man, whose in- 
 fluence is yet felt in Mexico. He developed the country in a 
 variety of ways; increased commerce; minted 8127,396,000 
 in Mex. silver; fostered the military strength of the nation, 
 and carried to completion more civic reforms than had all the 
 viceroys combined who preceded him. With this man arose 
 the star of New Spain. A book could be filled with the stories 
 (still current among the people) of his wisdom, kindness, and 
 judgment. He died in office April 9, 1779, and was buried 
 with great honors in the church of Nvestra Seiiora de Guada- 
 lupe. Several of the principal streets of the city (the Calles 
 de Bucareli , p. 371) were named for him. and his memory is 
 fresh and sweet in the hearts of intelligent Mexicans. 
 
 Martin de Mayorga (Governor of Guatemala), 47th V. 
 (1779-83). 
 
 Matias de Galvez , surnamed “ The Diligent,” 48th V. (1783- 
 85), an earnest, quiet worker, with an ambition to elevate the 
 people to better things. 
 
 Bernardo de Galvez { son of Matias de G.), 49th V. (1785-87), 
 constructed the Castillo de Chapultepec (p. 386). 
 
 Alonzo Nunez de Haro y Peralta (Archbishop of Mexico), 
 50th V. (1787). 
 
 Manuel Antonio Flores (Governor of Bogota), 51st Y. 
 (1787-89). 
 
 Juan Vicente de Giiemes Pacheco de Padilla (Conde de 
 Revillagigedo) , 52d V. (1789-94), a stern and eccentric 
 nobleman with an aptitude for civic reform. He ably seconded 
 the work begun by Bucareli; caused the streets of Mexico 
 City to be cleaned, paved, and lighted ; organized an efficient 
 police force; executed a number of highwaymen; established 
 weekly posts between the capital and outlying intendencies, 
 and remodelled the military organization. He started an ex- 
 pedition from Mexico that reached as far north as Behring's 
 Straits. He was wont to prowl the city’s streets at midnight 
 in search of abuses, which he summarily corrected, and he 
 placed a locked box with a slit in the lid, in a public place, for 
 the receipt of petitions and complaints from those who could 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 CXC1X 
 
 not obtain a personal interview with him. One night he 
 entered a street flanked by squalid dwellings and terminating 
 in a cut de sac. The corregidor (mayor) was at once ordered to 
 open a wide highway and to have it completed so that he, 
 the Viceroy, might drive through it on his way to mass the 
 following morning. A small army of workmen were routed 
 out of their beds, and the next morning the Calle de Revil - 
 lagigedo (which now intersects the Avenida Juarez at the 
 Alameda in Mex. City) was completed. 
 
 Miguel de la Grua Talamanca (Marques de Branciforte, an 
 Italian adventurer), 53d V. (1794-98), secured his appoint- 
 ment by chicanery, and before his retirement succeeded in 
 making himself the most cordially detested official in the 
 Colony. During his reign all that portion of Florida (now 
 U. S. A.) lying west of the Perdido River was ceded to France. 
 
 Miguel Jose de Azanza, called “The Bonapartist,” 54th V. 
 (1798-1800). 
 
 Felix Berenguer de Marquina , 55th V. (1800-03), caused to 
 be made the splendid equestrian statue (comp. p. 373) of 
 Carlos IV, at Mexico City. 
 
 Jose de Iturrigaray, “The Monarchist,” 56th V. (1803-08). 
 
 Pedro Garibay , “The Revolutionist,” 57th V. (1808), ad 
 interim. 
 
 Francisco Javier Lizana (Archbishop of Mexico), 58th V. 
 (1809-10). 
 
 Pedro Catani (Presidente of the Audiencia), 59th V. (1810), 
 ad interim. 
 
 Francisco Javier Venegas , 60th V. (1810-16). Coincident 
 with the opening of his reign began the Revolutionary period. 
 
 Juan Ruiz de Apodaca , 61st V. (1816-21), was known as 
 “The Unfortunate,” because he reached Mexico when the 
 power of Spain was declining, and the country was in the throes 
 of a revolutionary war which the Spanish troops were unable 
 to quell. 
 
 Francisco de Novella, Azahal,. Perez y Sicardo, 62d V. (1821), 
 remained in office but a few months, and was the last of the 
 vice-regal line. He was relieved by 
 
 Juan O’Donoju, Captain-General of New Spain, and the 
 last Spanish ruler in Mexico. He reached Vera Cruz in 1821, 
 took the oath of office there Aug. 3, but was prevented by 
 the revolutionists from exercising his authority. He died 
 at Mexico City Oct. 7, from an attack of pleurisy brought on 
 — it is said — by chagrin at the thought that Mexico was no 
 longer a Spanish colony. 1 
 
 h. War for Independence. During the reign of the Span- 
 ish Viceroy Jose de Iturrigaray , in Mexico, the internal affairs 
 
 1 Portraits in oil of all the succession of rulers, from Cortes to O' Donoju. 
 may be studied in the National Museum (p. 298), and in the Palacio 
 Municipal (p. 292) at Mexico City. 
 
cc 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 of Spain were hopelessly muddled ; Carlos IV had abdicated 
 in favor of Ferdinand VII , who, in turn, had been forced to 
 step aside in favor of Joseph Bonaparte. Iturrigaray believed 
 that Mexico should govern itself (with a Spanish Viceroy as 
 King) , and he convened an assembly of notables with the aim 
 of securing the necessary power. He won over the masses by 
 promising to relinquish the regency as soon as another Spanish 
 King should occupy the Spanish throne. The Spaniards in 
 Mexico rebelled, seized the Viceroy, and imprisoned him in the 
 fortress of San Juan de Ulua (at Vera Cruz), whence he was 
 sent back to Spain. 
 
 The independence idea appealed to the people and they 
 nursed it. Centuries of despotism and misgovernment had 
 failed to kill out the patriotism and strength of the Mexicans, 
 and independence soon became the chief thought of every 
 one. Correspondence clubs were established in some of the 
 towns, and plans for an early uprising were formulated. 
 Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla , parish priest of the village of 
 Dolores (in Guanajuato), took the idea of freedom for Mexico 
 nearest to heart. He was a Creole (born May 8, 1753), nearly 
 sixty years old. with a powerful influence over the Indians of 
 his parish. He began the manufacture of lances, and planned 
 an uprising during the annual Indian fiesta which began in 
 Dec. His nearest confidants were the several members of an 
 alleged Society for the Study of the Fine Arts, established in 
 1S08 in the city of Queretaro. From this centre a sustained 
 influence was soon radiating, and the society counted upon 
 many members in the adjoining State of Guanajuato. The 
 influence of the Mayor ( Corregidor ) of Queretaro was soon 
 secured, as well as that of his wife, La Corregidora , Dona 
 Josef a Ortiz de Dominguez. Coincidently arms and ammuni- 
 tion, and the adherence of Captains Ignacio Allende and Juan 
 Aldama of the King’s Regiment, stationed hard by, were also 
 obtained. 
 
 Mariano Galvan , a traitor to the cause, imparted his know- 
 ledge to the Queretaro postmaster, who immediately repaired 
 to Mexico City and disclosed the revolutionary plans to the 
 Government. On the night of Sept. 13, an intimation of the 
 publicity of the plans reached the ears of Rafael Gil de Leon, 
 an ecclesiastic judge of Q., and because of his friendship for 
 the mayor he warned him. The latter at once sought the ad- 
 vice of his wife, who in turn sent a trusty messenger to warn 
 Hidalgo of his peril. The Cura was told (at 2 a. m. Sept. 16) 
 that the conspiracy was discovered, and he decided to strike 
 the blow at once. At early mass, he announced to his parish- 
 ioners that “Spain was no longer Spanish, but was French, 
 and that the time for Mexico to be free had come.” He dwelt 
 upon how the Spanish soldiery had oppressed even the peace- 
 ful inhabitants of his own village, stealing their savings, 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 cci 
 
 ruining their fields, and violating their homes. The modest 
 silk industry started by Hidalgo had been destroyed, as the 
 Spaniards had cut down the mulberry trees. The Indians 
 appeared ripe for a revolt. Hidalgo then rang the famous 
 liberty bell (comp. p. 268), and voiced the stirring appeal 
 known since as the Grito de Dolores (the cry from Dolores). 
 This was, in substance: “Long live our most Holy Mother 
 of Guadalupe! Long live America, and death to bad govern- 
 ment !” The zealous patriot began the march forthwith. 
 Passing the church of Atotonilco, he took therefrom a banner 
 bearing a picture of the Virgin of Guadalupe, and, affixing it 
 to his lance, adopted it as the standard of the “Army of In- 
 dependence.” The making of the struggle a religious war as 
 well as one for freedom was more the promptings of a pious 
 mind than a premeditated stroke of diplomacy. The priest 
 felt that with so redoubtable a patroness victory would assur- 
 edly be theirs. 
 
 The idea filled the Indians with enthusiasm, and when the 
 insurgents reached the town of San Miguel that night, the 
 regiment to which Captain Allende belonged declared at once 
 for independence. Celaya surrendered on Sept. 21, as the 
 army marched through on its way to the rich city of Guana- 
 juato. An organization of the army was attempted at Celaya, 
 and Hidalgo was proclaimed Captain-General of his 20,000 
 troops. 
 
 Guanajuato, capital of the Province of G., contained 80,000 
 inhabitants, the richest silver-mines in Spanish- America, and 
 was, in point of wealth, second to Mexico City. After desperate 
 fighting, the place was captured. The Spaniards took refuge 
 in the Alhondiga , or Castle of Grenaditas, and one of 
 the bloodiest battles of the revolution soon raged round its 
 walls. The insurgents were for the most part armed with bows 
 and arrows, slings, machetes (cane-knives), and lances, and 
 while the provincial militia fought with great determination, 
 under skilled officers, the impetuous onslaught of the patriots 
 won. Despite Hidalgo's earnest entreaties, a general massacre 
 took place. Three centuries of Spanish misrule and oppression 
 told upon the Indians, and their war-cry, “ Mueran los Gachu - 
 pines ” (death to the Spaniards), was emphasized by three days 
 of carnage and destruction. 
 
 From the Alhondiga , Hidalgo secured five millions of pesos , 
 which went to swell the treasury of the revolutionists. The 
 province declared for him and many of the provincial militia 
 deserted to his standard. He at once had the bells of the city 
 cast into cannon, employed the mint to coin money (in the 
 name of Ferdinand VII), and continued his attempts to organ- 
 ize his army. 
 
 Meanwhile the Viceroy had awakened to the dangers of the 
 situation, and was sending out troops under skilled command- 
 
CCI1 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 ers to combat the insurgents, and to protect places along 
 their proposed line of march. The Church became alarmed at 
 the peril which threatened it through a government over 
 which it had established a quasi-protectorate. The Bishop 
 of Michoacan hurled edicts of excommunication against all 
 insurgents, and Archbishop Lizana issued a pastoral letter 
 combating the principles upon which Hidalgo justified the 
 revolution, and ordering the Spanish and Creole clergy to 
 declare from their pulpits, and cause it to be everywhere 
 known, that the purpose of the revolution was to subvert the 
 Holy Catholic Church. The Inquisition charged Hidalgo wdth 
 every error of which that tribunal took cognizance. The Vice- 
 roy Venegas published a proclamation offering a reward of 
 ten thousand pesos for the capture, dead or alive, of Hidalgo 
 and his two chief military companions. 
 
 The army left Guanajuato (Oct. 10) and proceeded to 
 Valladolid (now Morelia), which immediately declared for 
 independence. Upon the approach of the army, the Bishop, 
 Council, and civil authorities evacuated the place. Here Hi- 
 dalgo's force was swelled by a considerable body of soldiery, 
 and the erstwhile country priest found himself at the head 
 of an undisciplined army of 80,000 men. He took vast sums 
 from the coffers of the Valladolid Cathedral, but was excom- 
 municated by the Bishop of the diocese for the act. Here he 
 also learned of a vice-regal proclamation decreeing that any 
 one taken with arms against the Government would be shot 
 within fifteen minutes after capture without the ‘‘benefit of 
 clergy.” 
 
 The army began its march to Mexico City, gaining new 
 adherents by the way. Hidalgo reviewed his troops at Acam- 
 baro and was proclaimed u Generalisimo” Oct. 30, he fought 
 his first engagement with the royal forces in the field (at 
 Monte de las Cruces ), and won a signal victory over the Span- 
 ish forces under General Truxillo. The defeat demoralized 
 the vice-regal army, and had Hidalgo moved at once upon the 
 capital, it is probable that it would have fallen into his hands 
 and given success to his plans. Herein he proved a poor 
 generalisimo , and showed a lack of military sagacity. After 
 advancing to the hacienda of Quaximalpa (5 leagues from the 
 panic-stricken capital) and sending a summons (which elicited 
 no reply) to the Viceroy to surrender, he retreated with his 
 army toward the interior of the country. On Nov. 7, the army 
 encountered a train of artillery and 10,000 well-equipped 
 Creole troops commanded by General Felix Maria Calleja del 
 Rey, who had been sent out to concentrate the vice-regal 
 forces. In the desperate battle which ensued, Hidalgo’s In- 
 dians displayed more courage than discretion; rushing with 
 their clubs and improvised lances upon the bayonets of the 
 enemy, to fall in heaps. They were so ignorant of the effects 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 cciii 
 
 of artillery that they ran up to cannon in action and attempted 
 to stop them with their sombreros. After beating a hasty re- 
 treat, it was found that they had suffered a loss equal to the 
 entire Spanish force. 
 
 Entering Guadalajara, Hidalgo concentrated his forces and 
 organized a government. Calleja went to Guanajuato, and 
 made that city the scene of notable cruelties in retaliation 
 for the excesses committed by Hidalgo’s Indians. Fourteen 
 thousand of the inhabitants were butchered. 
 
 A commissioner sent by Hidalgo from Guadalajara to the 
 United States was captured by the Spaniards, the patriot’s 
 plans and resources were learned, and his downfall hastened. 
 While he was engaged in promulgating decrees abolishing 
 slavery and stamp duties, royal forces were sent against him, 
 a battle was fought at Puente de Calderon (Jan. 16, 1811), 
 and the army of independence dispersed. Hidalgo , Allende, 
 Aldama , and Jimenez held together and started northward, 
 intending to secure assistance and purchase arms in the 
 United States. They were captured and later executed, 
 and their heads taken to Guanajuato and placed upon pikes 
 at the four corners of the Alhondiga , as “a warning to Mex- 
 icans who chose to revolt against Spanish government.” 
 There the heads remained until independence was won. In 
 1823, their bodies were buried under the Altar de los Reyes , 
 in the apse of the Mexico City Cathedral. 
 
 Hidalgo’s logical successor was his pupil, Jose Maria More- 
 los , a Mestizo, a Catholic priest, an intrepid fighter, and a com- 
 mander of marked ability. He took over the command and 
 began a successful and destructive campaign against the Span- 
 iards. In six-and-twenty hard-fought engagements he was 
 successful in all but two. In a battle near Acapulco (whither 
 he was sent by Hidalgo in 1810), he defeated the vice-regal 
 troops, captured 800 muskets, 5 pieces of artillery, 700 pris- 
 oners, much ammunition, and a large sum of money. After 
 the war he was known as “The Hero of a Hundred Battles.” 
 
 Among the trusted lieutenants of Morelos was another 
 priest, Mariano Matamoros , noted for his military genius. 
 Aiding him were the celebrated Dr. Cos , the Bravos brothers, 
 Galena , Manuel de Mier y Ter an, Felix Hernandez, Ignacio 
 Lopez Rayon, Jose Maria Liceaga, and a host of ambitious 
 patriots. 
 
 Early in 1812 two battalions of Spanish troops, including 
 a famous regiment of Asturias (which had won the title of 
 “the Invincibles” in the Peninsula), came to Mexico to sup- 
 port the vice-regal government, and to assist in reducing the 
 Independents to subjection. The insurgents were severely 
 punished, but their military exploits were not checked. A 
 guerrilla warfare now raged throughout the colony, and the 
 royal troops were harassed incessantly. The exploits of the 
 
CC1V 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 rancheros (ranchmen) formed one of the most picturesque 
 chapters of the long war. Expert in the use of the lariat; 
 born with an aptitude for guerrilla fighting, hardy, brave, and 
 persistent, they were to the Spaniards what Morgan and his 
 shifty band "were to the Northern troops during the American i 
 war of 1864. They travelled usually in small groups, and | 
 scattered when danger threatened, to reunite at some given 
 point miles away. Each unit was a formidable fighting ma- 
 chine, at once dreaded and detested by the Iberian troops, I 
 who were unused to being dragged from their saddles by a 
 hurtling lasso, bumped across a cacti-strewn plain and trussed I 
 and hustled like yearling steers. 
 
 Morelos now called a Congress of Mexicans, and essayed to 
 organize an Independent Nation. Forty deputies assembled 
 at Chilpancingo in Sept., 1813, and Morelos was nominated 
 Captain-General of the Independent forces; decrees were 
 passed abolishing slavery, imprisonment for debt, and the 
 collection of tithes for the support of religious societies. The 
 Congress removed to Tlacotepec, and finally convened in 
 Apatzingan, where it published (Nov. 16, 1813) its formal 
 Declaration of Independence of Spain. “Mexico was declared 
 free from Spanish control, with liberty to work out its own 
 destiny, and with the Roman Catholic religion for its spiritual 
 guidance.” The name chosen for the new nation was “The 
 Kingdom of Anahuac.” A Constitution, liberal in its pro- 
 visions, was adopted. Copies of this, and the Declaration, 
 were, by order of the Viceroy, ceremoniously burned in pub- 
 lic in the City of Mexico, and in the principal towns of the 
 Republic. 
 
 Morelos now undertook to traverse a section of the country 
 in possession of the Spaniards, and was captured (near Tex- 
 malaca), loaded with chains, and taken as a prisoner to the 
 capital. He was brought before the Holy Office, condemned, 
 and his auto-de-je was the last pronounced by the Inquisition 
 in Mexico. After being degraded by the priesthood he was 
 handed over to the secular arm, and was shot at San Cristobal 
 Eca tepee in Dec , 1815. I 
 
 The heroic days of the revolution ended with Morelos , and 
 the cause soon languished. When (Sept., 1816) Calleja del Rey 
 was succeeded in the Virreinato by Juan Ruiz de Apodaca , the 
 insurgents were apparently under Spanish control. Every 
 captured revolutionist had been summarily shot. With the 
 exception of the freebooting expedition of Francisco Javier \ 
 Mina , in 1817, Mexico was so little disturbed by actual war 
 until 1820, that the Viceroy, whose policy was conciliatory, 
 reported to the Regent that he would answer for the safety 
 of Mexico, and that there was no need of sending any more 
 troops from Spain. 
 
 But a formidable uprising soon occurred, and the Viceroy 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 ccv 
 
 appointed Agustin de Iturbide, commander of the District 
 of the South. After fighting a few engagements with the in- 
 surgents under General Vicente Guerrero, Iturbide met the 
 latter and proposed that they should unite in proclaiming 
 the independence of Mexico. In conformity, Iturbide pub- 
 lished (Feb. 24) the famous Plan de Iguala known as Las 
 Tres Garantias , in that it provided for the conservation of the 
 Roman Catholic Church, for the absolute independence of 
 Mexico as a moderate monarchy, with an ostensible adhesion 
 to Ferdinand VII, and for the union of Spaniards and Mex- 
 icans in the bonds of friendship. The plan received the im- 
 mediate support of the clergy, who just now found themselves 
 in an awkward situation. 1 
 
 The colors of the Mexican flag (adopted April 14, 1823) 
 represented the Tres Garantias : white (religious purity) ; red 
 (union of Spaniards and Mexicans); green (independence). 
 Iturbide 1 s army was thereafter called the Army of the Three 
 Guarantees. 
 
 Revolutionary leaders, who had retired from the struggle 
 discouraged, came to the front, the people arose en masse , 
 and Mexico was soon aflame with the sacred cause of patri- 
 otism. The Viceroy, Apodaca (the Unfortunate), was forced 
 to resign, and Francisco de Novella became Viceroy ad interim. 
 The Plan de Iguala was a popular success, and Iturbide cap- 
 tured the cities of Valladolid, Queretaro, and Puebla, and 
 laid siege to Mexico City. When General Juan O'Donoju , 
 bearing the commission of Captain-General, arrived at Vera 
 Cruz (July 30, 1821) to supersede the Viceroy Novella , he 
 found the country in the hands of the Independents, and Vera 
 Cruz itself in the possession of the Independent Chief, Antonio 
 Lopez de Santa Anna (b. Feb. 21, 1795, d. June 21, 1876). 
 
 The Spanish representative was placed in the embarrassing 
 position of having to ask of Santa Anna the privilege of land- 
 ing upon the continent, and of requesting of Iturbide a safe 
 conduct to the capital. Perceiving that it would be impossible 
 to arrest the revolution by force, O'Donoju proposed to treat 
 with Iturbide. They met at Cordoba (Aug. 24, 1821), and 
 O’Donoju signed, on behalf of his Government, the “Treaty 
 of Cordoba.” It embodied the Plan de Iguala; declared Mexico 
 sovereign and independent; provided for a constitutional 
 
 1 In 1820 the Spanish revolutionists proclaihied the Constitution of 
 1812, and Ferdinand found himself under the necessity of supporting it. 
 This Constitution dissolved the convents, abolished the Inquisition, or- 
 dained the freedom of the press, and seized the tithes of the secular clergy 
 on the ground that the money was required by the State in a great emer- 
 gency. The Mexican clergy at once found their privileges and alleged 
 rights menaced, and despite the fact that nine years before, they had 
 opposed the revolution in Mexico, and had denounced as heretical the 
 idea of Independence or separation from Spain, they now discovered 
 that their interests demanded “an absolute separation from Spain and 
 its radicalism! 
 
CCV1 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 representative monarchy, for the call of the Bourbon family ' 
 of Spain to the throne, and for the immediate establishment 
 of a provisional government, pending the arrival of the 1 
 chosen monarch. It also assured to the people the liberty of 
 the press, and the equal rights of Spaniards and Mexicans, | 
 and provided that the Army of the Three Guarantees should 1 
 occupy the capital, and that the Spanish troops should be it 
 sent out of the country as soon as possible. 
 
 Iturbide made his triumphal entry into Mexico City Sept, t 
 27, 1821, and on that date ended the Spanish power in Mexico. 
 He was hailed as “Liberator/’ and the occasion was marked 
 by great rejoicing. The title of Lord High Admiral was con- 
 ferred upon him, and as Generalisimo of the Army and head 
 of the nation, the people addressed him as Serene Highness. : 
 
 Guatemala voluntarily united with Mexico Feb. 21, 1822 1 
 (it seceded July 1, 1823), and Iturbide found himself the mas- i 
 ter of a nation whose territorial extent was one of the greatest ; 
 in the world — China and Russia alone being larger. Its pos- t 
 sessions comprised, in addition to the present Republic of :i 
 Mexico, Guatemala on the south, and on the north all the il 
 region between the Red and Arkansas Rivers and the Pacific : 
 Ocean, extending as far north as the present northern bound- 
 ary of the United States. 
 
 To the great disgust of the old Spanish nobility he instituted 
 an order of nobility, calling the members Caballeros (gentle- ; 
 men) de Guadalupe , and embarked upon a riotous course i 
 which soon caused his downfall. 
 
 i. First Empire. The First Congress of the Mexican Nation 
 convened Feb. 24, 1822, and was found to comprise three ! 
 distinct parties, notwithstanding the oath taken by each 
 deputy to support the Plan de Iguala and the Treaty of Cor - I 
 doba. One party — composed of the army, the clergy, and I 
 a few malcontents — wanted to place Iturbide on the throne. i| 
 The Republicanos wanted the “Plan” set aside and a Federal f 
 Republic established. The Independents and the Spaniards 
 — united only in their hatred of Iturbide — desired to have 
 executed exactly the Plan de Iguala by placing on the throne i’ 
 a Spanish Prince. The meeting was the signal for hostilities j 
 which extended over nearly fifty years. 
 
 On May 18, 1822, the “Liberator” forced a pronuncia- , 
 miento in his favor in the cuartel (barracks) of San Hipolito 
 (Mexico City), and in a turbulent meeting of Congress, from 
 which Republican members were excluded, Iturbide was 
 elected Emperor of Mexico by a vote of 75 to 15. He immedi- 
 ately took the oath of office before Congress, and organized 
 a Provisional Council of State. On the 21st of July he and his 
 wife were anointed and crowned with great solemnity in the 
 Mexico City Cathedral; Iturbide assumed the title of Agustin 
 /, Emperador. His first act was to dissolve the existing Con- 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 CCVll 
 
 gress, imprison its most contumacious members, and replace 
 them by a junta composed of two deputies from each province, 
 of his own selection. 
 
 j. Fall of the Empire and Rise of the Republic. A mon- 
 archical government for Mexico was unsatisfactory to the 
 Revolutionary leaders. The bombast of the arrogant, pageant- 
 loving Mestizo seemed a poor result for the sacrifice of the 
 good cur a Hidalgo , of the intrepid Morelos, Allende, Aldama , 
 and a hundred other pure-minded patriots. For a time lturbide 
 was able to quell the uprisings by the aid of national troops, 
 but the empire fell into disrepute, and soon collapsed. Gen- 
 eral Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna headed (Dec., 1822) a for- 
 midable uprising in Jalapa, and in a month’s time lturbide' s 
 alleged empire was reduced to the limits of Mexico City. 
 Guerrero and Bravo followed the example of Santa Anna and 
 led a revolt in the North. The country was soon aflame with 
 anger, and rather than provoke a civil war lturbide abdicated 
 (March 20, 1823), and under a declaration of banishment from 
 the country, he was permitted to retire from the capital. His 
 salary as Emperor had been 8125,000 a year (which he paid 
 to himself from forced loans and with paper money issued by 
 his commands) , and in recognition of his eminent services to 
 Mexico he was granted a life annuity of 825,000. Soon after 
 his retirement he wrote from London to the Mexican Govern- 
 ment, warning it of the machinations of the “ Holy Alliance” 
 to restore Spanish rule in Mexico. He offered his services 
 should an attempt be made. Congress replied (April 28) to his 
 letter by a decree declaring that should lturbide return he 
 would be regarded as a traitor and be put to death. Unaware 
 of this, lturbide landed in disguise at Soto la Marina (July 
 14, 1824), was arrested, brought before the legislature of the 
 State of Tamaulipas, and condemned to death. He was shot 
 July 24, 1824. 
 
 The Plan of Iguala, with its three guarantees of Religion, 
 Independence, and Union, and the Treaty of Cordoba were 
 now repudiated by Congress. The bars of green, white, and red 
 in the flag of the Tres Garantias had been horizontal ; they 
 were now changed to upright, with the green bar next to the 
 staff, and this was adopted as the flag of the Republic. The 
 national coat-of-arms, showing an eagle upon a nopal cactus, 
 strangling a serpent, was also adopted. 
 
 A Congress was installed (Nov., 1823) to discuss the adoption 
 of a fundamental law for the country, and it drew up an in- 
 strument closely resembling that of the Constitution of the 
 United States. It contained thirty-six articles (proclaimed 
 in the form of a Constitution, Oct. 4, 1824) and it defined the 
 government to be Popular, Representative, Federal, and Re- 
 publican. It proclaimed the national sovereignty; the inde- 
 pendence of the States (allowing them independent govern- 
 
ccviii HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 ment in internal affairs, without prejudice to the rights of the 
 Federal Government) ; the organization of the supreme power, 
 the independence of the judicial powers, and guaranteed to 
 the clergy their already vested rights. This new Republic 
 comprised five territories and nineteen states; each of the 
 latter with a governor, legislature, and a tribunal of justice. 
 The States were to organize their governments in conformity 
 to the Federal Act. The general powers of the National Gov- 
 ernment resided in the Federal District (Mexico City) and 
 comprised a General Congress, a Supreme Court of Judicature, 
 and a President — of the United Mexican States — with four 
 Ministers. The legislative power was vested in a Congress 
 comprising a Senate and House of Representatives. The 
 Supreme Court was to be composed of 11 judges, elected by 
 the legislatures of the several States. 
 
 The third article of the Constitution was significant: “The 
 Religion of the Mexican Nation is, and will perpetually be, 
 the Roman Catholic Apostolic. The nation will protect it by 
 wise and just laws, and prohibit the exercise of any other 
 whatever/’ 
 
 The Constitution was received by the people with custom- 
 ary enthusiasm. Felix Fernandez, who styled himself Guada- 
 lupe Victoria (in homage to the Virgin of Guadalupe) , took the 
 oath of office (Oct. 4, 1825) as the first President of Mexico, 
 and the country began its career as a Constitutional Republic. 
 
 In 1825 the fortress of San Juan de Ulua (Vera Cruz), until 
 then held by the last of the Spanish forces, was evacuated, 
 and the Republic of Mexico received the formal recognition 
 of England and the United States. The paternal support 
 received by the fledgeling Republic from the great American 
 Republic at the north gave it an impetus which had potent 
 bearing on its future. The message of President Monroe (Dec., 
 1823) to the Congress of the United States contained the fol- 
 lowing significant declarations : 
 
 “ (1) The American Continents, by the free and independent condition 
 which they have assumed and maintained, are henceforth not to be con- 
 sidered as subjects for future colonization by any foreign power : (2) 
 Any attempt on the part of European Powers to extend their political 
 systems to any portion of the Western Hemisphere would be considered 
 dangerous to the peace and safety of the United States. Any interposi- 
 tion by such Powers for the purpose of opposing or controlling the gov- 
 ernments which have declared their independence and maintained it, 
 and whose independence had been acknowledged by the United States, 
 could not be viewed in any other light than as a manifestation of an un- 
 friendly disposition to the United States; that the political system of 
 European Powers could not be extended to any portion of either of the 
 American continents without endangering the peace and happiness of 
 the United States, nor would such extension be regarded with indiffer- 
 ence.” 
 
 This “Monroe Doctrine” bomb-shell “launched into the 
 armed camps of Europe” enabled the Mexican Republic to 
 start on its eventful career unhampered by foreign interfer- 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 CC1X 
 
 ence; it was effectual in preventing Spain from making further 
 serious attempts to reclaim her lost provinces in America, 
 although she withheld the recognition of the Republic of 
 Mexico until 1836. (Comp. p. clx.) 
 
 The Free and Independent Republic progressed during the 
 wise administration (4 years) of its first President. He signal- 
 ized (1825) the anniversary of the Grito de Dolores by the lib- 
 eration of certain slaves purchased by the Government with 
 a fund raised for that purpose; and of other slaves given up 
 by their owners with the same object in view. A law was 
 passed (1826) abolishing all titles of nobility and restricting 
 parents with regard to the distribution of property among 
 their children, thus striking a blow at the Spanish institu- 
 tion of mayorazgo, or primogeniture. The treasury was full of 
 money (the remainder of a loan of sixteen millions of dollars, 
 negotiated at London in 1823 and known as the “English 
 Debt”), and the future was bright. 
 
 But the Church — then a hot-bed of insurrection and 
 unrest — squirmed under its restrictions and the loss of power 
 arrogated to itself under vice-regal rule. Any government 
 not wholly ecclesiastical was viewed by the clergy with dis- 
 trust, and the first rift in the lute came (1827) in the form of 
 an insurrection headed by two Franciscan friars, who aimed 
 to restore the prestige lost by Spain and the Mother Church. 
 The incident caused a strong anti-Spanish feeling, and a decree 
 was secured (1828) by the Federalists for the expulsion of all 
 Spaniards from Mexico. 
 
 A great warring ensued between the Centralists or Con- 
 servatives (the Church party) and the Federalists or Liberals 
 (Republican party), and albeit the Spaniards were permitted 
 to remain in the country, peace was henceforth but illusory, 
 and was maintained by force of arms. 
 
 Prominent among the turbulent spirits of this era was 
 General Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna, a shrewd but unprin- 
 cipled Creole; accomplished, courageous, and quick to espouse 
 any cause that promised personal advancement. He attained 
 to the presidency in 1832 — after a series of “mimic revolu- 
 tions” which extended over four or five years — and until his 
 final overthrow the Republic was in a turmoil which made 
 material progress impossible. 
 
 Combating retrogression and striving to advance their 
 country, such men as Vicente Guerrero , General Manuel Gomez 
 Pedroza , General Bravo , and Valentin Gomez Farias (at one 
 time Vice-President) were prominent among the honorable, 
 intelligent, and democratic spirits of the epoch. Gomez Farias 
 aimed to secure the absolute liberty of the press ; the abolish- 
 ment of special class privileges whereby the clergy and the 
 army gained great advantages over the masses; the separa- 
 tion of Church and State, including the suppression of monas- 
 
ccx 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 tic institutions (the great idea made effective by the Leyes de 
 Reforma of President Juarez nearly three decades later) ; 
 the abolition of the right of ecclesiastics to interfere in secular 
 affairs ; the restoration and maintenance of the national credit 
 by a readjustment of the public debt; and a host of measures 
 which would have worked for the country’s good. 
 
 He succeeded in establishing a decree abolishing the system 
 of tithes levied as a tax for the support of ecclesiastical insti- 
 tutions; and another enjoining the civil courts from maintain- 
 ing the binding force of monastic vows, leaving members of 
 religious organizations free to abandon their convents if they 
 chose to do so. In many wise acts he began the system of 
 government reforms which it took the remainder of the nine- 
 teenth century to see accomplished. 
 
 Santa Anna, who meanwhile had been in retirement on his 
 hacienda at Mango de Clava, secured again the reins of gov- 
 ernment (1834), annulled the liberal decrees of Gomez Farias , 
 deposed that able and honorable man from the Vice-Presi- 
 dency, and compelled him to leave the country. The lovers of 
 liberal institutions and good government looked on with dis- 
 may, but without power to interfere. Mexico’s universal repu- 
 tation for unstable government was now assured. Its people 
 were regarded as restless and revolutionary, and in some quar- 
 ters as being savage and uncivilized. The elevation of Santa 
 Anna to the unlimited power of Dictator was destined to con- 
 firm this evil reputation. 
 
 In May, 1835, the Plan de Toluca was promulgated, whereby 
 the Federal System was declared changed into a Central- 
 ized Government, termed by decree the Central Republic. 
 A new Constitution was adopted by Congress, known as Las 
 Siete Leyes — the seven laws. It confirmed the Centralized 
 System, with but one House of Legislature for the entire 
 country. The States were changed into Departments, under 
 the control of Military Commandants, who were responsible to 
 the chief authority of the nation. The Republic now became 
 a military oligarchy, and until 1S47 the supreme power was 
 vested in whoever might be, at the time, the most successful 
 military leader. Conditions in Mexico were almost anarchical ; 
 life was unsafe, property was not respected, and the reputation 
 of the country abroad was of the worst. 
 
 k. The War with the United States. 1 “In 1S20, Moses 
 Austin, a resident of Missouri, U. S. A., obtained the privilege 
 of settling in Texas under the plea of being a Roman Catholic 
 persecuted by Protestants. A certain element in the U. S. A. 
 Delie ved that Texas belonged more to their Government than 
 to that of Mexico, and that President Monroe, in voluntarily 
 surrendering it to Spain (at the time of the cession of Florida), 
 
 1 Consult History of the American Civil War , by John W. Draper, 
 M.D., LL.D. (New York, 1868.) 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 CCXl 
 
 acted unwisely. Moses Austin died prematurely, hut his son, 
 Stephen F. Austin, carried out his intentions, and the Ameri- 
 cans obtained a foothold in the country. In 1821, Mexico 
 granted certain charters to colonists, which from time to time 
 were renewed by the successive governments. In 1827 and 
 1829, ineffectual attempts were made by the American Govern- 
 ment to purchase Texas from Mexico. It was obvious that the 
 possession of it was absolutely necessary to the South, in order 
 that her system might have freedom of expansion westwardly, 
 and an equipoise be maintained with the North, in Congress. 
 Adventurers were often encouraged by the prevailing public 
 sentiment to emigrate to it, with the intention of detaching it 
 forcibly from Mexico. The Anglo-Saxon traditions of these 
 settlers were so at variance with Spanish institutions, that 
 the fickle and dictatorial government of Santa Anna soon 
 goaded them into rebellion. Many arbitrary acts on the part 
 of the Mexican Government aided in the precipitation of this 
 revolt, which, on account of the many internal dissensions, 
 it was little able to counteract. 
 
 “When the Federal Mexican Government abrogated the 
 State Constitution, in 1835, thus despoiling the Texans of the 
 rights granted them by the Constitution of 1824, it precipi- 
 tated a crisis. General Sam Houston, a Virginian by birth, 
 led the Texans in their fight for independence. Santa Anna, 
 whose * uninterrupted military successes had emboldened him 
 to adopt the self-assumed title of the Napoleon of the West/ 
 set out, in Feb., 1836, at the head of an army of 8,000 of the 
 best troops of Mexico, to suppress the rebellion. The Texans 
 were defeated at the Alamo and Goliad, and those of them 
 who were taken prisoners of war were atrociously murdered 
 in cold blood. The whole garrison of the Alamo was put to the 
 sword. The Texans had hitherto belittled the valor of their 
 antagonists, but the barbaric despotism of Santa Anna goaded 
 them to fury and made peace impossible. On the 23d of 
 April, 783 men, under General Houston, met the Dictator at 
 the San Jacinto River, and after a battle which lasted only 
 20 minutes, they captured the whole Mexican army, including 
 Santa Anna. The character of this conflict may be understood 
 from the statement that the Mexicans killed were 630, the 
 wounded 208. Nothing but the firmness of the American com- 
 mander saved Santa Anna from immediate execution. The 
 Mexican President, thus constrained in his extremity, was 
 obliged to acknowledge the independence of Texas. Hereupon 
 he was liberated, and allowed to return to his country by way 
 of the United States. This, he seemed in no hurry to do, and 
 he did not return to Mexico City until nearly a year after his 
 capture by the Texans. He then addressed a letter to the Mexi- 
 can Secretary of War, disavowing all treaties and stipulations 
 made with the Texans under duress. Meanwhile the new 
 
CCX11 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 Republic of Texas was established in October, 1836, with a 
 Constitution modelled on that of the United States, and with 
 General Houston as its first President. The United States 
 forthwith acknowledged its independence, as did France, 
 England, and Belgium. The new Republic maintained its sep- 
 arate existence until 1844. Repeated efforts were made to 
 have it annexed to the U. S. A., and it soon became a political 
 touchstone, an important point in American civil policy. 
 
 ‘‘President Tyler, on the last day of his term of office, con- 
 cluded a treaty with Texan representatives, by which Texas 
 became a State of the Union. This treaty was ratified by 
 the American Congress in March, 1845. It was characterized 
 bv General Juan N. Almonte (who was captured at the San 
 Jacinto River along with Santa Anna, and who was at this 
 later period Mexican Minister at Washington) as an act of 
 aggression, ‘the most unjust which can be found in the annals 
 of modern history.’ This fiery general (who owed his life to 
 the clemency of the then President of the annexed district) 
 succeeded in arousing, feelings of great bitterness in Mexico. 
 Diplomatic relations between Texas and Mexico were sus- 
 pended, General Almonte demanded his passport and returned 
 to Mexico, and General Taylor, the United States commander 
 in the Southwest, received orders to advance to the Rio 
 Grande. The Mexican President Herrera issued a proclama- 
 tion declaring the annexation a breach of international faith, 
 and called upon the citizens of Mexico to rally to the defence 
 of the territorial integrity of the country. 
 
 “While General Taylor was approaching the Rio Grande, 
 troops were sent north to enforce the claims of Mexico to the 
 territory in dispute. 
 
 “General Taylor reached the Rio Grande at Matamoros 
 March 26, 1846, and in May the battles of Palo Alto (May 8) 
 and Resaca de la Palma (May 9) were fought, resulting in 
 victories for the Americans.” 
 
 On May 13, the American Congress appropriated 810,000,- 
 000 for the prosecution of the war, and 50,000 volunteers 
 were ordered to be raised. General Stephen W. Kearney was 
 sent to occupy the then Mexican province of California, 
 Colonel Doniphan was ordered to proceed southward toward 
 Chihuahua, and General Scott to besiege Yera Cruz and 
 march to the capital therefrom. Santa Anna, who had been 
 in Cuba, in exile, returned to Mexico and took command of 
 the Mexican army. This army was poorly equipped, and 
 though the men fought with the coolness and bravery charac- 
 teristic of the Mexican soldier, they were defeated on every 
 hand. 
 
 The battle of Sacramento w 7 as fought Feb. 28, 1847, and on 
 March 2, Doniphan’s command occupied Chihuahua. Mean- 
 while a revolt had been excited in California against Mexican 
 
HISTORY AND RACES ccxiii 
 
 rule, and formal possession of the country was taken by Com- 
 modore Stockton. On March 9, 1847, 12,000 men, under 
 General Scott, were landed in a single evening at Vera Cruz, 
 and after a five days’ bombardment from sea and land the 
 city surrendered, 5,000 prisoners and 500 pieces of cannon 
 being taken. Scott now commenced his march to Mex. City 
 along the National Road. Approaching the heights of Cerro 
 Gordo, he found they were occupied by Santa Anna with 
 
 15.000 men. In the attack that ensued the position wat 
 forced, 3,000 prisoners and 43 guns being captured. The Cas- 
 tillo de Perote was soon taken, and on May 15, Worth’s Divi- 
 sion, numbering 4,000 men, camped in the Plaza of Puebla. 
 Scott’s army, now reduced to 4,290 men, was obliged to re- 
 main in Puebla until August 7, awaiting reinforcements. 
 These came, and the invading army, now amounting to 
 
 11.000 men, marched through the Pass of Rio Frio and on 
 toward the capital. 
 
 On August 20, the Mexican outposts were taken, San An- 
 tonio was captured, the fortified post of Churubusco was 
 assaulted and gained, and the road leading to Mexico City 
 was opened. In these operations the American loss in killed, 
 wounded, and missing was 1,053. The Mexican loss was four 
 times as great, and 37 guns were taken. 
 
 Delayed by an armistice and by abortive negotiations for 
 peace, it was not until Sept. 7 that Scott renewed active opera- 
 tions for the possession of Chapultepec. Two formidable out- 
 works, Molino del Rey and Casa Mata, were carried, though 
 with severe loss, Chapultepec (comp. p. 381) was stormed and 
 captured, and on Sept. 14, 1847, the flag of the United States 
 was hoisted on the National Palace of Mexico. Scott made 
 a triumphant entry into Mexico City at the head of less than 
 
 6.000 troops. 
 
 Meanwhile the battles of Buena Vista had been fought, 
 Monterey was stormed and taken, and the Northern army of 
 Mexico ruined. The capture of the City of Mexico was a de- 
 cisive blow, and on Feb. 2, 1848, the Peace Treaty of Guada- 
 lupe-Hidalgo was made. 
 
 In this treaty New Mexico and Upper California, comprising 
 522,955 square miles of territory, were ceded to the United 
 States. The lower Rio Grande, from its mouth to El Paso, 
 was taken as the boundary of Texas. The United States agreed 
 to pay fifteen millions of dollars in five annual instalments. 
 The claims of American citizens against Mexico, not exceed- 
 ing three and a quarter millions of dollars, were also assumed. 
 For a treaty dictated by a conquering army, in the capital 
 of the nation treated with, this instrument stands unparalleled 
 in history. 1 
 
 1 The cost in money to the United States was $166,500,000; 25,000 
 men were killed or died. 
 
CCX1V 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 l. Withdrawal of the American Army. Internecine Strife. 
 
 Coincident with the retirement of the American army from 
 Mexico, President Herrera removed his seat of government 
 from Queretaro to the capital, and the sadly demoralized 
 country set about perfecting the organization for future 
 government and prosperity. For a year or more the wise, 
 economical, tolerant, and progressive Herrera was permitted 
 to bind up the wounds caused by the war and to start the 
 country once more on its way to peace and happiness. But 
 during this period the disturbing elements in the social econ- 
 omy of Mexico were only quiescent, in order that they might 
 regain their wonted strength. 
 
 General Mariano Arista was constitutionally elected Presi- 
 dent in 1850, and was installed in office in Jan., 1851. It was 
 the first instance in the history of the Republic that a con- 
 stitutionally-elected President had been allowed to take his 
 seat. He began by reforming the army, and the clergy at once 
 took alarm at his liberalism. In July, 1852, a revolution, 
 fomented by the Conservatives, broke out in Guadalajara, 
 spread to Chihuahua, and even as far south as Oaxaca. It 
 took the name of the Plan del Hospicio . Arista, averse to 
 involving his country in another civil war, and disheartened 
 at the course affairs were taking, resigned the presidency, left 
 the country, and died a year later, in poverty and obscurity, 
 at Lisbon. Santa Anna, who had been temporarily squelched 
 by the American invasion, again came into prominence, and 
 on April 15, 1853, took the oath as President. An era of the 
 most despotic absolutism ensued. The ecclesiastical party 
 was once more uppermost, and the Jesuits were reestablished 
 by a decree, dated May 1, 1853. The Dictator provided him- 
 self with ample funds, by the sale to the United States, for 
 ten millions of dollars, of a tract of land (border land amount- 
 ing to 45,535 square miles), known as the Gadsden Purchase. 
 He reestablished the Order of Guadalupe, originally instituted 
 by the Emperor Iturbide, made himself the Grand Master 
 thereof, and demanded that he be addressed as “Serene High- 
 ness.” On the 16th of Dec., 1853, he issued a decree declaring 
 himself “Perpetual Dictator.” A government was thereby 
 established more absolute than any Mexico had ever known. 
 The press was muzzled, high Liberals were imprisoned, and 
 the “court” of the Dictator was filled with the most vicious 
 members of society. Santa Anna’s personal vanity carried 
 him to the extent of madness, and hastened his downfall. 
 
 A revolution, long brewing, broke out in Acapulco, and was 
 called the Plan de Ayutla. It called for a Congress to form 
 a new Constitution, by which a Federal Republican system 
 would take the place of the Dictatorship established by Santa 
 Anna. The leader of the plan was General Juan Alvarez, a 
 revolutionary hero. It soon attracted the attention of Ignacio 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 ccxv 
 
 Comonfort, who promptly organized an army sufficient in 
 numbers to assume the aggressive against the Dictator at the 
 capital. Unable to stem the tide of popular discontent, Santa 
 Anna secretly left the city on the 9th of Aug., 1855, and went 
 into voluntary exile. Between the flight of Santa Anna and 
 the election of Comonfort as President, Dec. 12, there were two 
 Presidents and an incipient revolution at the capital. The 
 latter of these Presidents, Juan Alvarez, arrived in the capital, 
 with his body-guard of Indians, in Nov., and organized his 
 government with Comonfort as his Minister of War, and Benito 
 Juarez (comp. p. 338) as Minister of Justice and Ecclesiastical 
 Relations. This government was destined to be of transcen- 
 dental importance to the entire future life of the Republic. 
 Benito Juarez had long studied the welfare of his country; 
 with prophetic insight he had located the cancerous growth 
 that for nearly four centuries had sapped the life, energy, and 
 wealth of the nation. Quietly, but with true Indian dogged- 
 ness, he cut straight at the heart of the evil. One of the first 
 acts of this new government of men rather than of inflated 
 puppets, was the passage (Nov. 23, 1855) of the Ley Juarez 
 (not to be confounded with the Ley de Reforma), a law in- 
 tended to regulate the administration of justice and the organ- 
 ization of the courts of law. Its most significant feature was 
 the suppression of special courts and the removal of the juris- 
 diction, in civil cases, from military and ecclesiastical powers. 
 “ One of the inheritances Mexico had received from the period 
 of Spanish rule was the exclusive jurisdiction claimed by 
 ecclesiastical and military courts in all cases, civil and criminal , 
 in which clerics or soldiers were involved. The evils of such 
 a system are easily seen when it is considered that half the 
 crimes committed in Mexico were by men amenable only to 
 military courts, and that these courts were exceedingly lax 
 in the administration of justice. More than a quarter of the 
 landed property in the country belonged to clerics ; and even 
 the women who kept house for them, and their servants, 
 evaded the payment of just debts because the tradesmen 
 could not enforce their claims in the civil courts. ” 
 
 The ecclesiastics saw at once that the Ley Juarez meant 
 an attack on the sacred rights of the Church, and they opposed 
 it vigorously. This brought into prominence the Rev. Antonio 
 Pelagio de Labastida y Davalos, Bishop of Michoacan, who had 
 been but recently advanced to the Episcopate. He denounced 
 as heretical the liberal doctrines promulgated, and threw all 
 his influence against the Government. Despite the concen- 
 trated opposition of the Church, Comonfort vigorously repressed 
 both the army and the Church; enforcing his decrees with the 
 portion of the army that remained loyal to his Government. 
 His next decisive step in the direction of reform was the 
 famous Ley Lerdo , the production of Juarez and Ocampo, 
 
CCXV1 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 though revised and introduced in Congress by Miguel Lerdo 
 de Tejada and passed on June 25, 1856. This law, known 
 as El Decreto de (the decree of) Desamortizacion (or Mortmain 
 Statute), circumscribed the authority of the Church, and or- 
 dered the sale, at its assessed value, of all landed estate held 
 by it. The Church was to receive the money proceeds of such 
 sale, while the lands, passing into private hands, and freed 
 of mortmain, would become part of the mobile and available 
 wealth of the country at large. Up to the end of the year 
 1S56, the total value of property transferred under this decree, 
 officially termed Ley de Desamortizacion Civil y Eclesiastica, 
 was over twenty millions of pesos. 
 
 The Clericals made strenuous efforts to defeat this law. 
 The Bishop of Puebla protested against the intervention of the 
 Government in matters belonging to the Church, and preached 
 sermons of a seditious character thereupon. The Archbishop 
 of Mexico desired to submit the question to the Pope at Rome 
 — a proposition which was at once indignantly refused by 
 the Government of Mexico. A reactionary movement was 
 organized in Puebla and 15,000 troops were mobilized by the 
 Clericals. 
 
 Comonfort not only acted with great promptness and decision 
 in suppressing the revolution, but he issued a decree punish- 
 ing the reactionary officers and causing the sequestration of 
 enough of the Church property in the Diocese of Puebla to 
 pay the expenses of the war, and to indemnify the Government 
 for all damages sustained thereby. The Clericals throughout 
 the land were stunned. Henceforth it was war to the knife 
 between ignorance and superstition and progress and enlight- 
 enment. The war-cry of the Clerical Reactionaries was Re- 
 ligion y Fueros (Religion and Church Rights) . A conspiracy, 
 fomented by the monks in the convent of San Francisco in 
 Mexico City, was discovered Sept. 16, 1856, and the next day 
 Comonfort decreed the closure of the convent, and through 
 the convent garden he caused to be cut a wide street which was 
 named “ Independencia” (comp. p. 322). Another big section 
 of the vast property of the San Franciscans was opened up, 
 and was converted into what is now the Calle de Gante (p. 320). 
 “ The clergy to some extent defeated the purposes of the Ley 
 Lerdo by denouncing all who would purchase the lands of 
 the Church under the law, and declaring that the 1 Curse of 
 God ’ would rest upon them because of their unholy traffic in 
 holy things. By these threats the public was restrained from 
 purchasing at the Government sales, and few bidders were 
 found with courage to risk the 'Curse/ Those who bought 
 in the property at low figures made fortunes at slight outlay, 
 albeit they gained the bitter enmity of the Church. All this 
 served to make the task of the Government more difficult.’* 
 (Noll, Empire to Republic.) 
 
HISTORY AND RACES ccxvii 
 
 A new Constitution, framed by Congress and subscribed 
 to by Comonfort, was adopted Feb. 5, much to the chagrin 
 of the Church Party. The Bishops throughout the country 
 denounced it, and certain high officials in Mexico City were 
 excommunicated. This Constitution (substantially that of 
 Mexico to-day) was a direct affront to the Church. No sooner 
 was it published than great excitement prevailed in all parts 
 of the country, and wherever the clergy were dominant, 
 the people were incited to rebellion. An allocution was re- 
 ceived from Pope Pius IX, declaring the Government of 
 Mexico apocrypha , and putting it under the anathema of the 
 Church. The hitherto stanch Comonfort wavered beneath 
 the powerful influence brought to bear upon him, and ten 
 days after he had sworn to support the Constitution he gave 
 way to the Clerical Party, set aside the Constitution, and 
 tried to resume government under the “Bases of Political 
 Organization” of 1843. To further placate the Church Party 
 he cast Benito Juarez (Minister of Domestic Relations) into 
 prison. When too late he tried to correct his mistake. He 
 released Juarez , restored the Constitution, reorganized the 
 National Guard, and took steps to suppress the insurrection 
 in the capital. Failing to undo what he had done, he fore- 
 saw his own downfall and left the country Feb. 5, 1858. 
 Immediately upon the flight of Comonfort the Reactionary 
 Party proclaimed Felix Zuloaga President. The Liberals, 
 assembled in Queretaro, organized under the Constitution of 
 1857, recognized Benito Juarez as Constitutional President, 
 and had him installed on the 10th of Jan., 1858, several days 
 before the election of Zuloaga. Juarez at once departed for 
 Guadalajara, where he organized his government. During 
 the troublous times that followed in Mexico City, Juarez 
 went to the Pacific Coast, thence to the United States, and 
 returned to Vera Cruz. Here he maintained his government 
 for three years. The Reactionaries, who succeeded in holding 
 the capital, governed the country by a succession of what 
 are now termed “Anti-Presidents.” 
 
 m . The War of the Reform (La Guerra de la Reforma) , 
 the culmination of the long struggle between the Conserva- 
 tive Clerical Party and the Liberal and Progressive Fac- 
 tion, lasted from 1855 to 1861, and was characterized by the 
 cruelty which is usually a feature of wars wherein religious 
 fanatics are engaged. It was precipitated by the Ley Juarez , 
 and though bitterly contested and prolonged by the enorm- 
 ous accumulated wealth of the clergy, it was decisive, for 
 it wrested Mexico forever from the crippling grip of the 
 friars, and launched it on its present career of usefulness 
 and enlightenment. The motto of the reactionary opposi- 
 tion was religion y fueros , the clergy themselves promoting 
 revolution with the aid of the discontented military. The 
 
ccxviii HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 reactionists plunged into the fight with the zeal of those who 
 realize that their all is at stake, and civil war soon flamed 
 in many parts of the Republic. General Miguel Mir am on, 
 one of the anti-Presidents, led the reaccionarios, and was 
 for a time successful. Benito Juarez and his adherents, the 
 Juaristas , fought their opponents ail over the country, 
 and finding Yera Cruz the best point from which to con- 
 duct his campaign, Juarez established his government there 
 (in 1858), and based his claims on the Constitution of 1857. 
 Engagements were hotly contested at Queretaro, San Luis 
 Potosf, Las Cuevitas, Pachuca, Perote, and Ahualulco. Prior 
 to these, the clergy at Puebla revolted, under the leadership ! 
 of Bishop Haro, and that town was the scene of battles and 
 sieges. Juarez narrowly escaped execution at Guadalajara , 
 in 1857, and by the capture of Zacatecas, General Leandro 
 Marquez attained eminence as a reactionary leader, and began 
 a career of cruelty scarcely paralleled in Mexican history. 
 
 Encouraged by his successes, Miramon attempted (Feb., 
 1859) to capture Vera Cruz, the seat of the Constitutional 
 Government: for a month he ineffectually besieged the port, 
 and was then forced to hurry to the capital, which was 
 threatened by the Juaristas. A furious battle was fought 
 at Tacubaya, and General Marquez , not content with victory, 
 executed a number of prisoners, among them six physicians 
 who had gone from the capital to care for the wounded 
 Juaristas. This exploit gained him the title of El Tigre 
 (tiger) de Tacubaya , and for the town, the title of Tacubaya de 
 los Martires. 
 
 Early in 1860, Miramon returned to his design of captur- 
 ing Vera Cruz, and in March — after having borrowed j 
 $300,000 from the clergy at Mexico City — he appeared j 1 
 before that port. In preparing to besiege the city he sent to f 
 Havana and purchased two steam vessels and munitions of li 
 war, to be brought to V. C. to cooperate with his land j 
 forces. The approach of these two vessels (the General 1 
 Miramon and the Marques de la Habana) was disputed by | 
 the squadrons of other nations, then in the port of V. C., j 
 and as they were unable to show ship’s papers, they were 
 regarded as semi-piratical. Juarez requested the United 
 States squadron to examine the papers of the two vessels, 
 and in the attempt to do so the General Miramon made some 
 resistance and a U. S. frigate was fired upon. The commander 
 at once seized the ships and took them to New Orleans 
 for further investigation. The delay gained by their deten- 
 tion was valuable to the Juaristas , resulting in Miramon* s 
 failure in his attack on V. C. Later the siege was renewed 
 and the town was bombarded from the 15th to the 20th of 
 March. March 21, the siege was raised, and the disgusted 
 reactionists returned to the capital. 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 CCX1X 
 
 On July 12, when the prospects of victory seemed the most 
 doubtful, Juarez showed his Indian doggedness and his belief 
 in a just cause by issuing the celebrated Leyes de Reforma 
 (Reform Laws), the most transcendental decrees issued by 
 a Mexican up to that time. They contributed greatly toward 
 the ending of the war. These laws deprived the reactionaries 
 of their resources and broke the power of the party. They 
 provided for religious toleration, for the general curtailment 
 of the power of the clergy in the exercise of their alleged 
 rights, exclaustrated conventual holdings, adjusted the law 
 of civil marriage, and secularized the cemeteries. Religious 
 orders and religious communities were dissolved, as being 
 contrary to public welfare. The nation was entitled to pos- 
 sess all the properties of the clergy, both religious and sec- 
 ular, and the Church was denied the right to possessjanded 
 properties. Church and State were separated, and religious 
 freedom of thought was established. The clergy were disal- 
 lowed a stipend from the State, and were thenceforth to 
 receive such compensation for their services as might be vol- 
 untarily bestowed by their parishioners. Marriage, by being 
 considered a civil contract only, was freed from restraints 
 and expenses previously imposed upon it by the clergy — ■ 
 a provision far-reaching in its power for good. The opera- 
 tion of the law converted the country from the position of an 
 immense priest-ridden camp to that of a free nation. * 1 
 
 The Church did not submit tamely to this tremendous 
 edict. It had ruled the helpless people for over three cen- 
 
 1 The wealth of the Church in Mexico, says an authority, was astound- 
 ing. A census taken 15 years previously had estimated that there w~ere 
 2,000 nuns, 1,700 monks, and 3,500 secular clergy in Mexico, and that the 
 number of their conventual estates was 150. The nuns alone possessed 
 58 estates, or properties, producing an annual revenue of $560,000; in 
 addition to a floating capital of $4,500,000. producing an annual income 
 of $250,000. While the above number of clergy was inadequate to the 
 spiritual needs of a population estimated at seven millions, it was small 
 indeed to be the possessor of estates worth at least $90,000,000, which, at 
 that time, was said to be at least one third of all the wealth in Mexico. 
 Huge convents occupied a considerable part of the site of Mexico City, 
 Puebla, Morelia, Guadalajara, Queretaro, and other cities. A portion of 
 the income of the convents was derived from endowments, amounting to a 
 
 I large sum. To support the high ecclesiastics, great amounts were derived 
 from tithes. The Archbishop of Mexico had an income of $130,000 a year; 
 the Bishop of Puebla, $110,000; of Michoacan, $100,000; and of Guada- 
 lajara, $90,000. Mexico City was more like a great religious camp than a 
 | mercantile centre. The enormous wealth of the Church made it a very 
 prominent factor in politics, and it could upset and establish governments 
 at its pleasure, or ferment the many revolutions which were constantly 
 | breaking out. When the Mexicans rose in their war for independence, the 
 royal authorities took a portion of the Church’s wealth — which had been 
 wrung from the Mexicans — to defeat them in their struggle. 
 
 Mexico City owes many of its fine streets to the Reform Laws, which 
 enabled the Government to demolish churches and convents and cut 
 avenues through their spacious grounds. 
 
 There are said to be over ten thousand churches and chapels at pre- 
 sent in Mexico which are subject to Roman Catholic control. 
 
ecxx 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 turies, and it now stirred up the national strife to the extent 
 of pitting members of the same family against each other. 
 It threw the religion-loving people into a panic by threaten- 
 ing to excommunicate all who professed Liberal ideas. The 
 priests so crazed the populace that the temporary ambition 
 of every Mexican seemed to be to kill some one. Nearly two 
 hundred thousand Mexicans were engaged in the war, and the 
 loss of life was appalling. The conflict between the Liberals 
 and the Conservatives waged in nearly every section of the 
 country. The roads swarmed with bandidos, and the con- 
 dition of the country was deplorable. 
 
 But in the quiet, stern, far-seeing Indian from Oaxaca the 
 Church in New Spain found its Waterloo. The task which 
 confronted Juarez would have staggered a less determined 
 man. One of his first acts, after he entered the capital, 
 Jan. 11, 1861, was to banish the Bishops and with them the 
 Papal Nuncio and the Spanish Envoy. The properties left 
 to the Church were confiscated, and former clerical estates 
 were let out to farmers on payment of 12% of their values. 
 Archbishop La Bastida, ex- President Miramon , and other 
 Conservatives went to Paris, and from there still planned 
 the undoing of long-suffering Mexico. An act of doubtful 
 statesmanship on the part of the new Congress aided them 
 in their plans. In July, 1861, Congress approved the decree 
 issued by the President suspending, for two years, all pay- 
 ments on account of foreign debts. Juarez was heart and 
 soul for Mexico — the stanch friend of the United States, 
 but suspicious of Europe. Mexico at this time owed Great 
 Britain some $50,000,000, contracted by the splendor-loving 
 Santa Anna during his meteoric career. Financial ruin stared 
 Mexico in the face, and Juarez meant well for the country 
 when he suspended interest on this foreign debt. Two years 
 would enable him to bring order out of chaos, and then a 
 progressive Mexico could easily meet its obligations. But 
 this suspension gave the ecclesiastical malcontents the open- 
 ing they desired, and paved the way for — 
 
 n. The French Intervention, Maximilian and the Sec- 
 ond Empire. “For a better understanding of the causes 
 which led up to the execution of this unfortunate Prince of 
 the House of Hapsburg, it is well to recall that after the 
 peace of Villafranca, the Emperor Napoleon III was sin- 
 cerely desirous to heal the political wounds which had been 
 made by his military operations in Italy, and to find some 
 compensation for the injuries he had inflicted on the Em- 
 peror of Austria. 
 
 “From certain eminent Mexicans who were residing in Paris, 
 among them La Bastida , the ex-Archbishop of Mexico; the 
 ex-President Miramon. Gutierrez de Estrada , and Almonte — the 
 Emperor iearned that various Papal intrigues were under way 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 CCXXI 
 
 and that attempts had been made by leaders of influence in 
 the then seceding Southern States of America to come to 
 an understanding with persons of similar position in Mexico 
 with a view to a political union. 
 
 “ Among the advantages expected by the Southern States 
 from such a scheme was the alluring prospect of a future bril- 
 liant empire, encircling the West India Seas, and eventually 
 absorbing the West India Islands. To the Mexicans there 
 would be the advantage of a stable and progressive govern- 
 ment, with an emperor at its head, and the cessation of the 
 internecine strife that had long torn the country. The Mexi- 
 can refugees in Paris saw in the success of this scheme an 
 end of their influence in their native country, and they con- 
 sidered it better for them to induce a French protectorate. 
 The Emperor saw in this an opportunity for carrying out 
 his friendly intentions toward the House of Austria. He im- 
 mediately determined to encourage the secession of the South- 
 ern Confederate States with the view of curtailing the power 
 of the North, to overthrow, by a military expedition, the 
 existing Government of Juarez in Mexico, to establish by 
 French arms an empire, and to offer its crown to the Aus- 
 trian Archduke Maximilian. 1 
 
 “ To separate the Union for the purpose of crippling it, but 
 not to give such a preponderance to the South as to enable 
 it to consummate its Mexican designs, was the guiding aim 
 of the French Government. That principle was satisfied by 
 the recognition of belligerent rights, and by avoiding a recog- 
 nition of independence. The French expedition was thus 
 based on the disruption of the United States — a disruption 
 considered not only by the Spanish Court and by the Em- 
 peror Napoleon as inevitable, but even by the British Gov- 
 ernment. 
 
 “ The Spanish Minister in Paris, in November, 1858, had 
 suggested to the French Minister for Foreign Affairs, the 
 advantages that would accrue from the establishment of 
 a strong government in Mexico. Subsequently the views of 
 the English Government were ascertained, and in April, 
 1860, the Spanish Minister for Foreign Affairs stated that 
 France and England were looking favorably upon the matter. 
 The stumbling-block in the way was the opposition which 
 might be expected from the United States. That opposition 
 was embodied in a formula under the designation of the 
 Monroe Doctrine, which expressed a determination not to 
 permit the interference of European Powers on the North 
 American Continent. 
 
 “In April, 1860, the project having advanced sufficiently, 
 Lord John Russell informed Isturitz, the Spanish Minister, 
 
 1 History of the American Civil War, by John William Draper, M.D., 
 LL.D. (N. Y. f 1870). 
 
ccxxii HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 that England would require the protection of the Protestant 
 worship in Mexico. The project was characterized by the 
 selfishness which is usually the underlying principle "of all 
 nations, and the aims of the three contracting parties event- 
 ually became apparent. Spain expected that a Bourbon 
 prince would be placed on the Mexican throne, and that she 
 would thereby recover her ancient prestige and bind more 
 securely to her the valuable island of Cuba. Perhaps she 
 might even recover Mexico itself, and again bind that free- 
 dom-loving country in the chains of the ignorance and tyr- 
 anny which were its lot during Spanish dominion and mis- 
 rule. England, remembering the annexation of Texas, saw 
 that it was desirable to limit the ever-threatening progress of 
 the Republic westwardly; to prevent the encircling of the 
 West India Seas by a power which, possibly becoming hostile, 
 might disturb the rich islands she held ; nor was she insensible 
 to the importance of partitioning what seemed to be the 
 cotton-field of the world. France anticipated — but the 
 Emperor himself, concealing his real motive of compensating 
 Austria for his Italian victories, has given us his ostensible 
 expectations in a letter to General Forey. 
 
 “In this letter, dated July 3, 1S62, Napoleon III says: 
 
 ‘ There will not be wanting people who will ask you why 
 we expend men and money to found a regular government 
 in Mexico. In the present state of the civilization of the 
 world, the prosperity of America is not a matter of indifference 
 to Europe, for it is the country which feeds our manufac- 
 tures and gives an impulse to our commerce. We have an 
 interest in the Republic of the United States being powerful 
 and prosperous, but not that she should take possession of 
 the whole Gulf of Mexico, thence commanding the Antilles 
 as well as South America, and be the only dispenser of the 
 products of the New World. We now see by sad experience 
 how precarious is the lot of a branch of manufactures which 
 is compelled to produce its raw material in a single market, 
 all the vicissitudes of which it has to bear. If, on the con- 
 trary, Mexico maintains her independence and the integrity 
 of her territory, if a stable government be there established 
 with the assistance of France, we shall have restored to the 
 Latin race on the other side of the Atlantic all its strength 
 and prestige ; we shall have guaranteed security to our West 
 India colonies and to those of Spain; we shall have estab- 
 lished a friendly influence in the centre of America, and 
 that influence, by creating numerous markets for our com- 
 merce, will procure us the raw materials indispensable for 
 our manufactures. Mexico, thus regenerated, will always 
 be well disposed to us, not only out of gratitude, but because 
 her interests will be in accord with ours, and because she 
 will find support in her friendly relations with European 
 
HISTORY AND RACES ccxxiii 
 
 Powers. At present, therefore, our military honor engaged, 
 the necessities of our policy, the interests of our industry 
 and commerce, all conspire to make it our duty to march 
 on Mexico, boldly to plant our flag there, and to establish 
 either a monarchy, if not incompatible with the national 
 feeling, or at least a government which may promise some 
 stability/ 
 
 “ As soon as it was ascertained that the Southern States 
 were sufficiently powerful to resist the National Government, 
 and that a partition of the Union was impending, the chief 
 obstacle in the way of the Mexican movement seemed to be 
 removed. Throughout the spring and summer of 1861, the 
 three contracting powers kept that result steadfastly in 
 mind, and omitted nothing that might tend to its accom- 
 plishment. This was the true reason of the concession of 
 belligerent rights to the Southern Confederacy in May. 
 The downfall of Juarez was the next business in hand. 
 
 “ Affairs had so far progressed that, on November 20, 1861, 
 a convention was signed in London between France, England, 
 and Spain. In this it was agreed that a joint force should be 
 sent by the three allies to Mexico ; that no special advantages 
 should be sought for by them individually, and no internal 
 influence on Mexico exerted. A commission was designated 
 to distribute the indemnity they proposed to exact. The 
 ostensible reason put forth for the movement was the decree 
 of the Mexican Government, July 17, 1861, suspending pay- 
 ment on the foreign debt. 
 
 “ The allied expedition reached Yera Cruz about the end 
 of the year. Not without justice did the Mexican Minister 
 for Foreign Affairs complain of their ‘friendly but inde- 
 finite promises, the real object of which nobody unravels/ 
 Although M. Thouvenel was incessantly assuring the British 
 Government, even as late as May, 1862, that France had no 
 intentions of imposing a government on Mexico, it became 
 obvious that there was no more sincerity in this engagement 
 than there had been in imputing the grievances of the invaders 
 to the Mexican decree of the preceding July. The ostensible 
 cause was a mere pretext to get a military foothold in the 
 country. Very soon, however, it became impossible for 
 the French to conceal their intentions. England and Spain 
 withdrew from the expedition, the alleged cause on the part 
 of the former being the presence of Almonte, and other 
 Mexican emigrants of known monarchical opinions, with the 
 French, and a resolution not to join in military operations in 
 the interior of the country; on the part of the latter, the true 
 reason was that not a Spanish prince, but Maximilian, was 
 to be placed on the Mexican throne — a disappointment 
 to the Spanish commander, the Count de Reuss (General 
 Prim), who had pictured for himself a viceroy’s coronet. 
 
CCXXIV 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 “ The French entered the City of Mexico in July, 1863. 
 The time had now come for throwing off the mask, and the 
 name of Maximilian was introduced as a candidate for the 
 empire. Commissioners were appointed to go through Paris 
 and Rome to Miramar with a view of soliciting the consent 
 of that Prince. A regency was appointed until he could be 
 heard from. It consisted of Almonte, Salas, and the Arch- 
 bishop La Bastida. Maximilian had already covenanted 
 with the Pope to restore to the Mexican Church her mort- 
 main property, estimated at two hundred millions of dollars. 
 
 In Mexico there were but two parties, the Liberal and the 
 Ecclesiastical. The latter was conciliated by that covenant : 
 but as to the national sentiment, the collection of suffrages 
 in behalf of the new empire was nothing better than a mere j 
 farce. 
 
 “ An empire was established in Mexico. Well might the I 
 leaders of the Southern Confederacy be thunderstruck! Was j 
 this the fulfilment of that promise which had lured them into 
 the gulf of revolt — the promise which had been used with such 1 
 fatal effect in Charleston? Well might it be expected in 
 France, as is stated by Keratry, that ‘ the Confederates pro- | 
 posed to avenge themselves for the overthrow of the secret | 
 hopes which had been encouraged from the very outset of the 
 contest by the cabinet of the Tuileries, which had accorded 
 to them the belligerent character, and had, after all, aban- 
 doned them.’ 
 
 “ Yet no one in America, either of the Northern or the 
 Southern States, imputed blame to the French people in these 
 bloody and dark transactions. All saw clearly on whom the 
 responsibility rested. And when, in the course of events, it 
 seemed to become necessary that the French army should 
 leave Mexico, it was the general desire that nothing should be 
 done which might by any possibility touch the sensibilities j 
 of France. But the Republic of the West was forever alienated i 
 from the dynasty of Napoleon. 
 
 “ Events showed that the persons who were charged with the 
 administration of the Richmond Government had not ability ! 
 equal to their task. The South did not select her best men. j 
 In the unskilful hands of those who had charge of it, secession 
 proved to be a failure. The Confederate resources were reck- I i 
 lessly squandered, not skilfully used. Ruin was provoked. 
 
 “ When it became plain that the American Republic was j 
 about to triumph over its domestic enemies in the Civil War, j 1 
 and that it was in possession of irresistible military power, 
 they who in the Tuileries had plotted the rise of Maximilian in 
 1861, now plotted his ruin. The betrayed emperor found that j 
 in that palace two languages were spoken. In the agony of 
 his soul he exclaimed, ‘ I am tricked!’ In vain his princess 
 crossed the Atlantic, and though denied access, forced her 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 ccxxv 
 
 way into the presence of Napoleon III, in her frantic grief 
 upbraiding herself before him that, in accepting a throne 
 from his hand, she had forgotten that she was a daughter of 
 the race of Orleans 1 — in vain she fell at the feet of the Pope 
 deliriously imploring his succor. 
 
 “ The American Secretary of State, Mr. Seward, adopted a 
 firm but dignified course with the French Government. With 
 a courteous audacity, he did not withhold his doubts as to 
 the sincerity and fidelity of the Emperor; with inexorable 
 persistence he demanded categorically that the French occu- 
 pation should come to an end. A date once set, he held the 
 French Government to its word. ‘Tell M. Moustier/ he says, 
 in a despatch to the American Minister in Paris, ‘that our 
 Government is astonished and distressed at the announce- 
 ment, now made for the first time, that the promised with- 
 drawal of French troops from Mexico, which ought to have 
 taken place in November (this month), has been put off by 
 the Emperor. You will inform the Emperor’s Government 
 that the President desires and sincerely hopes that the evac- 
 uation of Mexico will be accomplished in conformity with 
 the existing arrangement, so far as the inopportune complica- 
 tion necessitating this despatch will permit. On this point 
 Mr. Campbell will receive instructions. Instructions will also be 
 sent to the military forces of the United States, which are 
 placed in a spot of observation, and are waiting the special 
 orders of the President: and this will be done with the con- 
 fidence that the telegraph or the courier will bring us intelli- 
 gence of a satisfactory resolution on the part of the Emperor 
 in reply to this note. You will assure the French Government 
 that the United States, in wishing to free Mexico, have no- 
 thing so much at heart as preserving peace and friendship 
 with France.’ 
 
 “ The French recognized that the position of the two nations 
 had become inverted. The United States now gave orders. 
 Even by the French themselves it was said, ‘The United 
 States tracked French policy step by step; never had the 
 French Government been subject to such a tyrannical dic- 
 tation. Formerly France had spoken boldly, saying, through 
 M. Drooyn de Lhuy to Mr. Dayton, the American representa- 
 tive at Paris, “Do you bring us peace or war?” Now Maxi- 
 milian is falling in obedience to orders from Washington. He 
 is falling a victim to the weakness of our Government in al- 
 lowing its conduct to be dictated by American arrogance. 
 Indeed, before rushing into such perilous contingencies, might 
 not the attitude of the United States have been easily fore- 
 seen? Our statesmen needed no rare perspicuity to have dis- 
 
 1 Marie Carlota Amelie (born near Brussels June 7. 1840) was the 
 daughter of Leopold I, King of Belgium. She married Maximilian June 
 
 27. 1857. 
 
CCXXV1 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 covered the dark shadow of the Northern Republic looming 
 up on the horizon over the Rio Bravo frontier, and only biding 
 its time to make its appearance on the scene/ 
 
 “ Only one thing was now thought of in Paris, and that 
 was to leave as soon as possible this land of destroyed illu- 
 sions and bitter sacrifices. Was there ever such a catalogue 
 of disappointed expectations as is presented in this Mexican 
 tragedy? The Southern secession leaders engaged in dreaming 
 of a tropical empire which they never realized: they hoped it 
 would bring a recognition of their independence, and they 
 were betrayed. The English were beguiled into it as a means 
 of checking the growth of a commercial rival, and of protect- 
 ing their West Indian possessions. They were duped into the 
 belief that there was no purpose of interfering with the Gov- 
 ernment of Mexico. They consented to the perilous measures 
 of admitting the belligerent rights of the South. They lent 
 what aid they could to the partition of a nation with which 
 they were at peace. They found that the secret intention was 
 the establishment of an empire in the interests of France, the 
 conciliation of Austria for military reverses in Italy, and the 
 curbing of the Anglo-Saxon by the Latin race. England ex- 
 pected to destroy a democracy, and has gathered her reward by 
 becoming more democratic herself. The Pope gave his coun- 
 tenance to the plot, having received a promise of the eleva- 
 tion of the Mexican Church to her pristine splendor, and the 
 restoration of her mortmain estates; but the Archbishop La 
 Bastida, who was one of the three regents representing her 
 great influence, was insulted and removed from his political 
 office by the French. In impotent retaliation, he discharged 
 at his assailants the rusty ecclesiastical blunderbuss of past 
 days — he excommunicated the French army. The Span- 
 iards did not regain their former colony; the brow of the 
 Count de Reuss was never adorned with a vice-regal coro- 
 net. The noble and devoted wife of Maximilian was made a 
 wanderer in the sight of all Europe, her diadem removed, her 
 reason dethroned. 
 
 “ For Maximilian himself there was not reserved the pagean- 
 try of an imperial court in the Indian palaces of Montezuma, 
 but the death-volley of a grim file of Mexican soldiers, under 
 the frowning shadow of the heights of Queretaro. For the 
 Emperor of Austria, there was not the homage of a transat- 
 lantic crown; Mexico sent him across the ocean, a coffin and 
 a corpse. For France, ever great and just, in whose name 
 so many crimes were perpetrated, but who is responsible 
 for none of them, there was a loss of that which in her eyes 
 is of infinitely more value than the six hundred millions of 
 francs which were cast into this Mexican abyss. For the 
 Emperor — can anything be more terrible than the despatch 
 which was sent to America at the close of the great Exposi- 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 CCXXVll 
 
 tion? — ‘ There remain now no sovereigns in Paris except the 
 Emperor Napoleon III and the spectre of Maximilian at his 
 elbow.’ ” 
 
 Toward the close of December the Spanish squadron cast 
 anchor in the harbor of Vera Cruz. Early in January, 1862, 
 English and French war-ships arrived. They jointly took 
 possession of the port, and sent a note to the Mexican Gov- 
 ernment explaining the ostensible causes and aims of the 
 expedition. The Government invited them to a conference 
 having for its aim the reaching of an amicable settlement. 
 This conference was held in Orizaba. As the Mexican Govern- 
 ment was unprepared for war with a foreign power, it was 
 agreed that the allies should hold Cordoba, Orizaba, and 
 Tehuacan pending a satisfactory adjustment. If an agree- 
 ment were not reached, the allies were to retire to the coast 
 before beginning hostilities. 
 
 While negotiations were in progress, the commissioners of 
 the English and Spanish Governments (April 9) announced 
 their intention to withdraw and reembark their troops. This 
 was done as speedily as possible. The French commissioner 
 declared it was the intention of his government to push the 
 enterprise to completion. 
 
 Violating their agreement to retire to the coast, they awaited 
 reinforcements, which arrived under the command of Gen- 
 eral Lorencez. At the head of six thousand men he marched 
 toward the capital. He appeared before Puebla May 4, and 
 on May 5, began the assault of the city. He was defeated 
 by General Zaragoza at the head of 4,000 Mexican troops. 
 
 The French again attacked Puebla, which was heroically 
 defended by Gonzales Ortega with 12,000 men, aided by Gen- 
 eral Comonfort with a strong outlying division. On May 8, 
 Bazaine routed Comonfort, and on the 17th Puebla capitu- 
 lated to vastly superior forces. The French continued their 
 march to the capital. President Juarez, after issuing a mani- 
 festo to the nation, exhorting them to continue the struggle, 
 abandoned the city May 31. He retired toward the north, ac- 
 companied by troops under Generals Don Porjirio Diaz and 
 Don Juan Jose de la Garza. 
 
 On June 11, Mexico City was officially occupied by the 
 French troops. The Conservative Party accorded General 
 Forey an enthusiastic reception. A junta composed of 35 
 members of the Conservative Party was formed, and they in 
 turn created another junta with the title of Regencia and 
 headed by Don Juan Almonte, one of the most active agents 
 in the establishment of the monarchy in Mexico. 
 
 On June 10, 1863, a junta convoked by General Forey and 
 composed of 200 adherents of the Conservative Party form- 
 ally declared : — 
 
 “ The Nation accepts an hereditary monarchy headed by a 
 
ccxxviii HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 Catholic prince who will bear the title of Emperor . It offers 
 the crown to Archduke Fernando Maximilian of Austria.” 
 
 Meanwhile Juarez had established his temporary govern- 
 ment in San Luis Potosf, whence, on June 10, it moved to 
 Saltillo. Later it moved to Chihuahua, and thence to Paso 
 del Norte, now Ciudad Juarez. 
 
 Maximilian accepted the crown of the new empire in con- 
 sideration of three million pesos advanced by Napoleon III 
 to enable him to pay some of his debts. The compact was 
 signed at the Chateau of Miramar, April 10, 1864. From that 
 date his allowance was S125,000 a month: that of Carlota 
 S16,666.66, making a sum total of 81,700,000 annually paid 
 by impoverished Mexico for the privilege of having its dis- 
 tracted country mismanaged by a foreign potentate. 
 
 The Archduke and his consort embarked on the Austrian 
 war-ship La Novara , April 14, 1864. Arriving at Civita- 
 Vecchia they went direct to Rome, where they lodged at the 
 Palacio Marescotta. After a visit from the King of Naples 
 and Cardinal Antonelli, they attended a special mass at the 
 Vatican, received the communion from the hands of the Pope, 
 and sailed for Mexico April 20. 
 
 On May 28, La Novara dropped anchor in the harbor of 
 Vera Cruz. The next morning Maximilian and his suite dis- 
 embarked and received the keys of the city. Gayly decorated 
 carriages conveyed them up the mountains to Cordoba and 
 Orizaba, where they were received with flowers and acclama- 
 tions. They arrived at Puebla June 5, where a great celebra- 
 tion was held (the 7th) in honor of Carlo ta’s birthday. They 
 passed the night of the 11th at Guadalupe, and made their 
 triumphal entry into the capital on the morning of June 12. 1 
 
 Coincident with the arrival of Maximilian, the monarchical 
 form of government began its functions. Troubles also arose. 
 The Archduke was not lacking in advanced ideas, and from 
 the first he essayed to win the good will of the Liberals, 
 a difficult task in view of their intense hostility to the Con- 
 servatives whom the Emperor represented. In turn he gained 
 the ill will of t he Conservatives by refusing to annul or modify 
 the Leyes de Reforma. 
 
 Money was the shibboleth of his brief reign. The extra- 
 vagant etiquette of the Austrian Court was implanted in the 
 Aztec capital, and it became the theatre of glittering court 
 
 1 In view of the fact that one of the ostensible causes of the French in- 
 tervention was the decree repudiating Mexico’s foreign debts (because of 
 her inability to pay them), it is interesting to note the minor expendi- 
 tures consequent to bringing Maximilian and his suite to Mexico. 
 
 (liven to various persons to induce the Emperor to come . $104,902.32 
 Furniture and improvements in the Palace at Mexico . . 101,011.83 
 
 Furniture and art objects for Chapultepec and Orizaba . . 15.210.50 
 
 Reception at Vera Cruz and Mexico City * 115,348.41 
 
 Total . . $336,473.06 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 CCXX1X 
 
 balls, regal receptions, and splendid social functions. To meet 
 the ever-increasing expenses of the lavish court, loans were 
 contracted in Paris and London, and valuable franchises were 
 sold to the foreign adventurers who flocked to the seat of the 
 new empire. 
 
 In marked contrast to affairs at the capital, turmoil reigned 
 in the interior cities and towns. In those garrisoned by a 
 sufficient number of French troops, an illusory peace was 
 maintained by force of arms. A perpetual guerrilla warfare 
 was waged in many of the country districts. At first the 
 Mexicans suffered heavily at the hands of the French, but 
 the revolutionists gained strength, and in 1866 disquieting 
 rumors reached the capital and disturbed the Emperor in 
 his fancied security. 
 
 With a woman’s perspicacity, the Empress detected the trend 
 of events and she proposed a trip to Paris and Rome, with the 
 aim of urging Napoleon III to fulfil the promises made at 
 Miramar, and to invite the aid of the Pope to unravel the 
 ecclesiastical tangle which perplexed the struggling monarchy. 
 
 On July 6 a special Te Deum was held in the Cathedral, and on 
 the 13th the Empress embarked at Vera Cruz on the Empera- 
 triz Eugenia. When she left Mexico she turned her back upon 
 her husband and an imperial diadem, both forever lost to her. 
 
 Napoleon received the Empress coldly. Both indulged in 
 violent and acrimonious recrimination; the Emperor refus- 
 ing absolutely to furnish further resources, whether military 
 or pecuniary. The interview served only to strain the already 
 tenuous relations , between Napoleon and Maximilian. The 
 vainglorious French Emperor had his own troubles. Spurred 
 and vexed by the veiled orders of the United States to with- 
 draw his troops from American soil, he sought but the means 
 to comply and preserve his dignity. The soldiers themselves 
 were constantly harassed by the Mexican guerrillas, and they 
 yearned for La Belle France and for the cessation of a boot- 
 less struggle on alien soil. 
 
 A victim to the darkest forebodings, the unhappy Empress 
 repaired to Miramar, where, on the 16th of Sept., a banquet 
 celebrating the Independence of Mexico was given. Unwill- 
 ing to relinquish the Mexican crown and again be merely 
 an Archduchess of Austria, the ambitious woman started for 
 Rome with all her hopes centred in the Pope. She made 
 her official visit to the Vatican on September 27. On being 
 received by the Pontiff she fell into a nervous paroxysm, and 
 as if possessed of an awful terror she exclaimed: “I have 
 been poisoned by order of Napoleon III, and those without 
 have accomplished it.” 1 Hope had died out of her proud 
 heart and her reason went with it. 
 
 1 There are Mexicans who say the Empress was secretly poisoned with 
 Marihuana (a deadly native drug) before she departed from Mexico 
 
ccxxx 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 The sad notice all but crushed Maximilian, and his sole 
 remaining ambition was to leave Mexico and reach the side 
 of his unfortunate wife. Prevailed upon by the Conservative 
 Party to remain, he did so, and unwittingly sealed his own fate. 
 
 The year 1867 opened menacingly for the empire. The 
 Liberal forces in the north had captured town after town. 
 Napoleon had named early spring as the date for the with- 
 drawal of his troops, but the urgency of Mr. Seward and the 
 interview with the Empress Carlota hastened his plans, 
 and the last of the French troops reached Mexico City Jan. 
 
 15, homeward bound. On Feb. 5, the French flag was hauled 
 down from over the home of the Marshal, in Buena Vista 
 (p. 340), and the army filed out of the city. From behind the 
 curtained window of the palace, Maximilian watched its de- i 
 parture in silence. 
 
 Hard-pushed by the Liberals, the generals of the Imperial- j 
 ist cause had united in Queretaro. Accompanied by his 
 Ministers of State, aides, doctor, secretary, and two thousand j 
 armed men under General Leonardo Marquez, Maximilian 
 left the capital Feb. 13. A special Te Deum was sung in the 
 Cathedral at Queretaro the day of his arrival. On the same J 
 day General Mendez arrived on his retreat from Morelia. 
 
 On March 20, Queretaro was closely besieged by the Liberal 
 forces. 
 
 When the Emperor left Mexico City, he believed he was to j 
 lead a campaign against the enemy. Great was his surprise 1 
 to learn that he had deliberately entered a beleaguered citv, | 
 now completely surrounded by Liberal troops under Generals 1 
 Escobedo and Corona. Once trapped, his position was peril- 1 
 ous. Numerous but ineffectual attempts were made to break I 
 the cordon. Ammunition grew scarce, rations diminished, and 1 
 the city was taken by the Republican forces May 15. Max- | 
 imilian, Miramon, and Mejia were imprisoned in a cell in the I 
 existing Capuchin Convent. The court-martial that tried I 
 them was convened in the Yturbide Theatre at 10 a. m.. June I 
 14. The Emperor was suffering from an acute attack of illness 1 
 and was not present. On June 15, the court united in a sen- I 
 tence of death. 
 
 When she made her piteous appeal for help to Napoleon III, she was i; 
 quite sane, though sadly wrought up by intense emotion, but failure un- | 
 hinged her mind, and when she hurried off to the Pope, she was demented. j 
 To the horror of the Papal Court, she burst into the presence of His Holi- 
 ness wearing a bonnet instead of the black mantilla rigorously insisted ; 
 upon in such an audience: and to the still greater horror of Cardinal 
 Antonelli and of the Pope himself, she insisted on staying overnight at i 
 the Vatican. As, however, force could not be used to eject her. the Pope | 
 had to order two beds to be placed in the library for the Empress and one 
 of her ladies — an unheard-of desecration! Indeed, they could get rid of 
 the hapless Empress next day only by the ruse of getting two nuns to j 
 persuade her to visit their convent, where she became so violent that she 
 had to be put into a strait-jacket ! 
 
HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 CCXXXl 
 
 The President of the United States and the sovereigns of 
 Great Britain, France, and Austria tried to save his life. 
 Victor Hugo wrote Juarez a strong and stirring appeal, and 
 besought him to pardon Maximilian. The Princess Salm- 
 Salm rode 120 miles across country, and on her knees im- 
 plored Juarez to spare his life. He refused to annul the order. 
 In connection with the Austrian, Belgian, and Italian Ministers 
 and the French Consul, she planned a nocturnal flight from 
 the convent. This plan failed. Maximilian’s counsel went to 
 President Juarez at San Luis Potosf and urged a commuta- 
 tion of the sentence. But as Maximilian himself had, in his 
 famous decree of October 3, condemned to death any Mexi- 
 can found with arms against the monarchy, Juarez refused 
 the plea. He confirmed by telegraph, at 11 a. m., on June 16, 
 the death sentence pronounced against Fernando Maximilian 
 of Hapsburg. The jailer immediately announced the news to 
 the prisoners. 
 
 Shortly after daylight on the morning of June 19, 1867, 
 a division composed of 4,000 men marched to the suburb of 
 Queretaro and formed a square at the foot of El Cerro de 
 las Campanas — The Hill of the Bells. In their cells in the 
 Capuchin Convent three men dressed for the ordeal. 
 
 They had scarcely finished when a soldier opened the 
 heavy door and said : / Yaes hora ! — the time has come. Maxi- 
 milian, Miramon, and Mejia, accompanied by a Catholic priest, 
 Father Soria, stepped into the carriage awaiting them and 
 were quickly driven through a silent multitude to the place of 
 execution. The carriage reached El Cerro de las Campanas 
 at 7.15. Maximilian descended first and was followed by his 
 generals, who walked with firm steps. About halfway up the 
 hill was an adobe wall, constructed during the siege as a breast- 
 work, guarding the more important fortification upon the 
 summit — the last point to surrender and where Maximilian 
 was captured. In front of this wall the prisoners were stationed 
 and the firing-parties told off. The men embraced each other, 
 and took a last look at the winsome blue sky of a faultless day. 
 
 Maximilian distributed some gold coins among the soldiers 
 who were to shoot him, and in a clear, vibrant voice exclaimed : 
 “ I die in a j ust cause, the Independence and Liberty of Mexico. 
 I forgive all, and I pray that all may forgive me. May my 
 blood flow for the good of my adopted country. / Viva Mexi- 
 co!” Miramon uttered a few words. Mejia remained silent. 
 It is said that Mejia comforted Maximilian in his last hours 
 by assuring him that Carlota had died in Europe. Maxi- 
 milian asked as a favor that he might be shot in the body, so 
 that when his body was sent to Austria his mother might once 
 more look upon his face. 
 
 Maximilian, Miramon, and Mejia fell dead at the first 
 volley. A second fire was directed against the body of the 
 
ccxxxn 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 Emperor. It was then placed in a rude coffin and taken to a 
 room in the Palacio de Gobierno. The body was there in- 
 spected by President Juarez. 1 
 
 o. The Restored Republic. When Juarez again entered 
 the capital on July 15, 1867, after an absence of five years, 
 his return signalized the rise of the new Republic and the 
 culmination of his own fame. The Constitution of 1857 was 
 made once more effective, and the national energies were 
 directed toward repairing the waste caused by the long war. 
 Railways and telegraphs were installed, and the country was 
 developed internally. 
 
 Congress reelected Juarez president in Oct., 1871, and he 
 took the oath as a constitutional president for the third time 
 on Dec. 1. A number of would-be presidents “ pronounced ” j 
 against him, but each attempt to return to the old method j 
 of governing the country by force was promptly squelched. 
 
 The sudden death of Juarez on July 18, 1872, raised Sebas- 
 tian Lerdo de Tejada (then president of the Supreme Court 
 of Justice) to the presidency. During his three years’ tenure 
 of office several articles were added to the Constitution; 
 one in particular suppressing the last remaining religious 
 order — the Sisters of Charity. The government under 
 Tejada was unpopular with the people, and a remedy was pro- I 
 vided in the revolt headed by General Porfirio Diaz in 1876. \ 
 The new revolution, which soon plunged the entire country I 
 into another civil war, had for its base the Plan de Tux - I 
 tepee , promulgated in Oaxaca, Jan. 15. It was the most signi- 1 
 ficant of all the revolutions to date, since it gave Mexico I 
 its greatest ruler. Under the command of General Diaz the \\ 
 revolutionary army carried out an energetic and successful j: 
 campaign. Tejada fled to the United States, and General \\ 
 
 1 The body of the unfortunate Emperor now lies in the Austrian Im- j 
 perial vault in the Capuchin Church at Vienna. The Prince was a rear- |l 
 admiral in the Austrian Navy, and before his ill-starred expedition to t] 
 Mexico, where he was sacrificed to the perfidy of Napoleon III, he resided jj 
 in Trieste in a beautiful chateau called Miramar. In the Piazza Giuseppe, j 
 in Trieste, stands a fine bronze monument (by Schilling), erected in 1875 l] 
 to his memory. Miramon and Mejia are buried in the Panteon de San U 
 Fernando (Mexico City). There are good paintings of Maximilian and the j 
 Empress Carlota in the National Museum at Mex. City. 
 
 The student should consult History of Mexico , by Hubert Howe Ban- I 
 croft (San Francisco, 1888), vol. vi. pp. 31 8 et seq. — My Diary in Mexico I 
 in 1 867, including the Last Days of the Emperor Maximilian, with Leaves j \ 
 from the Diary of the Princess Salm-Salm, by Felix Salm-Salm, Lon- 1 2 
 don, 1868. — Life of M aximilian /, Late Emperor of Mexico , with a sketch of II 
 the Empress Carlota , by Frederic Hall, New York, 1868. — Mcjico desde i \ 
 1808 hasta 1 867, by Francisco de P. Arrangoiz, Mexico, 1872 (a good j| 
 historical picture of the Second Empire). — Resena Historica de la For - ( 
 rracidn y Operaciones del Cuerpo de Ejcrcito del Norte durante la Inter- ! 
 vend on Francesa, Sitio de Qverctaro y Noticias O ficiales sobre la captura ( ; 
 de Maximillano, su Proceso Integro y su Muerte, by Juan de Dios Arias, I 
 Mexico, 1 867. — Guerre du Mexique, 1861-1867, by L. Le Saint, Paris, 3 
 1868. — Ermnervngen aus Mexico, Geschichte der letzten zehn Monate des 
 Kaiserreisch, by S. Basch, Leipsic, 1868. 
 
 
HISTORY AND RACES ccxxxiii 
 
 Diaz entered Mexico City Nov. 24, 1876, and was proclaimed 
 Provisional President. The following April, Congress form- 
 ally decreed that he be Constitutional President for a term 
 ending in Nov., 1880. A strong man was now at the head of the 
 government. Diplomatic relations with France were resumed ; 
 railway construction was pushed; incipient revolutions we r e 
 killed in their cradle, and the nation was led gently but firmly 
 into the path of peace and progress. 
 
 In 1880, the term for which Diaz had been elected expired, 
 and albeit many of his great plans for the regeneration of the 
 country were still in embryo, he steadfastly adhered to his 
 purpose of abiding by the constitutional provision that ren- 
 dered him ineligible for a succeeding term. The moral worth 
 of the man had perhaps never been subjected to a severer test. 
 
 On Sept. 25, 1880, General Don Manuel Gonzalez was 
 legally elected the successor of the retiring president. The 
 high principles of Diaz were beyond the grasp of the new 
 president, whose reign was characterized by riots, and similar 
 manifestations of the popular discontent. In 1883, the “ nickel 
 riots ” came near to ending the Gonzalez administration, as 
 did likewise the proposal of a very unpopular plan for liqui- 
 dating Mexico’s English debt. The admirable administration 
 of Porfirio Diaz had elevated the nation to a higher moral 
 plane than it had occupied hitherto; the dormant national 
 conscience had been awakened, and the Mexicans, for the 
 first time in many years, had acquired an interest in their 
 reputation at home and abroad. A new element had been 
 introduced into national affairs. So deep and so lasting was 
 the impression made by this greatest Mexican that the people 
 refrained from ousting Gonzalez: biding their time, they 
 shelved their grievances, and patiently waited until events 
 should once more place Diaz at the head of the nation. 
 
 This occurred in 1884, when General Diaz was, with prac- 
 tical unanimity, reelected. His second term was soon marked 
 by financial reforms which aided to repair the large deficit 
 left by the Gonzalez administration. The credit of the nation 
 was soon recognized by all the exchanges of Europe. Im- 
 mense sums were spent on public improvements ; free schools 
 were organized ; education became compulsory, and the 
 alcabales, or local state duties — a long-surviving and perni- 
 cious relic of Spanish colonial days — were abolished. The 
 drainage canal — that colossal project which had puzzled the 
 minds of Mexico’s rulers since the 14th century — was un- 
 dertaken and carried to successful completion. The solving of 
 this great problem alone was of incalculable benefit to the 
 inhabitants of the Valley of Mexico. 
 
 Diaz also instituted other wholesome reforms : he reduced 
 the president’s salary from $30,000 to $15,000, and ordered a 
 reduction of from 15 to 20 % in the salaries of many govern- 
 
CCXXX1V 
 
 HISTORY AND RACES 
 
 ment employees. He reorganized the army, rid the country 
 of bandidos, and converted the bandit chiefs into stanch sup- 
 porters of the Government. 
 
 Diaz possessed the wisdom and the statesmanship, the strong 
 arm and the steadfast purpose requisite to weld the warring 
 factions, reconcile antagonistic reactionaries, and to lift 
 Mexico from revolutionary chaos and launch it on a career of 
 almost unexampled prosperity. Under his wise and far- 
 sighted administration the country rose from the position of a 
 nondescript Republic not unfrequently a synonym for revolu- 
 tion, to one of the most progressive nations of the world. 
 
 In May, 1911, a revolution headed by Francisco L Madero \ 
 forced Diaz to resign. From the time he left the capital for 
 France, where he died (in Paris, July 2, 1915, aged 84), until 
 Dec., 1920, when General Alvaro Obregon became the Mexican ! 
 president, revolution flamed all over the country and ran like 
 a red thread through the texture of Mexico's life. The plots 
 and counterplots, the revolutionary successions, and the 
 presidential aspirations were much like those of an earlier j 
 period, or between 1810 and 1821, when Mexico finally threw 
 off the Spanish yoke, and 1880 when the Diaz influence began 
 to make itself felt. 
 
 Eleven presidents filled the gap between Diaz and Obregon y 
 or 1910 and 1920. Certain of them paid with their lives for | 
 their efforts to hold the country back, but these sacrifices 
 did not recompense Mexico for the terrific losses suffered dur- j 
 ing the intervening years. 
 
 It remained for the Obregdn administration to bind up the ; 
 country's wounds, adjust international differences, and force i 
 the Republic back to the high and valued position it once I 
 occupied in the world’s esteem. 
 
 For the chief events of the revolutionary period from 1911 
 to 1920, consult the Chronological Section at page ccxxxix. 
 
 Porlirio Diaz was born in Oaxaca City, Sept. 15, 1830 (on the anniver- 9 
 sary of the Mexican Independence proclaimed by Hidalgo). His father, 1 
 Jos6 Faustino de la Cruz Diaz, was of Spanish parentage, and his mother, 
 whose maiden name was Petrona Mori, was a Mestiza (of a Spanish Astu- 
 rian father, and a pure-bred Mixteca). Both were poor and humble. At an i 
 early age Porfirio showed characteristics that attracted the attention of 
 Benito Juarez, then Governor of Oaxaca State, and later President of Mexico. 
 
 He instilled into him many admirable qualities, and he noted that the 1 
 youth took to military science just as did the young Napoleon. Reserved, 
 studious, brave, and wise, he soon became noted for a fervid patriotism, j 
 rare executive ability, and an unalterable will. A captain in the army at 
 32, his bravery soon obtained for him the title of General, and ere long he 
 became a prominent figure in the military life of the Republic. From his {! 
 second election to the presidency in 1884, his fame acquired a solid and en- 
 during form. He was one of the wisest and most beneficent rulers Mexico 
 has had. Few men were more patriotic, few more self-sacrificing, and few 
 more beloved. No words can add to, or detract from, his renown, which is 
 as enduring as the hills. 
 
 Consult The Master Builder of a Great Commonwealth , by Jos6 F. Godoy 
 (N. Y., 1910), Un Pueblo , un Siglo y un H ombre, by Dr. Fortunato Her- 
 ndndez (Mexico, 1909). 
 
CHIEF EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY ccxxxv 
 
 XVI. Chronological Table of the Chief Events in Mexican 
 History. 
 
 I. From the Earliest Times to the Spanish Conquest. 
 
 7th Cent. The Toltecs, advancing from a northerly direction, 
 entered the territory of Anahuac at the close of the 
 Seventh Century. 
 
 1100. The Toltecs, who had extended their sway over the 
 remotest borders of Anahuac, disappeared from the 
 land as silently and as mysteriously as they had en- 
 tered it. 
 
 1200. A numerous and rude tribe, called the Chichimecs, 
 entered the deserted country from the far North- 
 west. 
 
 1200-1300. Other races, of a higher civilization, followed the 
 Chichimecs and reached the country from the North. 
 The most noted of these were the Aztecs, or Mexicans. 
 
 1325. The Mexicans establish themselves in the Valley of 
 Anahuac and call their settlement Tenochtitlan. 
 
 1485. Hernan Cortes is born at Medellin, Estremadura, Spain. 
 
 1492. Christopher Columbus discovers America. 
 
 1502. Montezuma II is raised to the Aztec throne. 
 
 1504. Hernan Cortes sails for Cuba. 
 
 1517. Francisco Hernandez de Cordoba, in the course of a 
 voyage of adventure from Cuba, discovers the coast 
 of Yucatan, March 4. 
 
 II. The Spanish Invasion and the Downfall of the Aztec Empire. 
 
 1519. Cortes sails from Havana Feb. 10, lands at Tabasco 
 (or Grijalva) March 20, at Vera Cruz April 21, begins 
 his march to the Aztec metropolis Aug. 16, enters 
 Tlaxcala Sept. 23, and Tenochtitlan Nov. 8. 
 
 1520. Montezuma dies June 20. The Spaniards evacuate 
 Tenochtitlan on the night ( Noche Triste) of July 1 
 
 1521. Cortes lays siege to Tenochtitlan, which is subjugated 
 Aug. 13. 
 
 III. Mexico under the Spanish Viceroys. 
 
 1522. Cortes is Governor, Captain-General, and Chief Justice 
 of the conquered territories of New Spain. The first 
 Catholic church established in Mexico is founded at 
 Tlaxcala. 
 
 1524. Consejo (council) de las Indias perfected by the King 
 of Spain. Arrival in Mexico of the Franciscan Friars 
 known as the Twelve Apostles. 
 
 1527. Bishopric of Mexico created. The first Bishop, Juan 
 de Zumarraga, collects the picture-paintings, writings 
 and historical MSS. of the Indians from the great de- 
 
ccxxxvi CHIEF EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY 
 
 pository of the national archives at Tezcuco, and from j 
 other sources, assembles them in the market-place of i 
 Tlaitelolco, and burns them. Bigotry thus destroys the 
 priceless annals of the first Americans. 
 
 1531. Alleged miraculous apparition of the Virgin of Guada- 
 lupe in Mexico. 
 
 1547. Death of Hernando Cortes, at Castilleja de la Cuesta, ! 
 Spain, Dec. 2, in the 63d year of his age. 
 
 1571. The Tribunal of the Inquisition is formally established 
 in the City of Mexico. 
 
 1691. Conquest of Texas. 
 
 1693. First newspaper established in New Spain. 
 
 1767. The Jesuits are expelled from Spanish America. 
 
 1806. Benito Pablo Juarez born March 21. 
 
 1808. Intervention of Napoleon Bonaparte in Spanish affairs, j 
 Revolution in Spain. The idea of Mexican independ- t 
 ence germinates. 
 
 IV. Beginning of the Mexican War for Independence. 
 
 1810. The Parish Priest Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, fugleman 
 of Mexican freedom, sounds the “ Grito de Dolores ” 
 (Sept. 16) and the death-knell of Spanish misrule in 
 Mexico. 
 
 1811. Hidalgo captured and shot. 
 
 1813. First Mexican Congress meets at Chilpancingo Sept. 
 14. Formal Declaration of Mex. Independence Nov. 6. I 
 
 1814. First Constitution at Apatzingan, Oct. 22. 
 
 1820. Inquisition suppressed in Mexico, May 31. 
 
 V. Independent Mexico. The First Empire. 
 
 1821. Mexico wins Independence from Spain. 
 
 1822. First Mexican Congress. Regency installed. 
 
 Agustin de Iturbide named Emperor, May 19. Antonio 
 Lopez de Santa Anna proclaims a republic. 
 
 VI. Collapse of the First Empire. Rise of the Mexican Republic. 
 
 1823. Iturbide abdicates; the empire falls into ruins. Central- 
 ist and Federalist parties formed. The Monroe Doc- 
 trine (of transcendental interest to Mexico) proclaimed 
 by the United States. Iturbide shot at Padilla, July 14. 
 
 1824. Federal Constitution proclaimed. Estados Unidos 
 Mexicanos organized. 
 
 1825. The Spanish troops evacuate El Castillo de San Juan 
 de Ulua. Extinction of Spain's power in Mexico. 
 
 1830. Porfirio Diaz, the Greatest Mexican, born Sept. 15. 
 
 1835. Rebellion of Texas. 
 
CHIEF EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY ccxxxvii 
 
 1843. Bases Org&nicas Politicas de la Republica Mexicana 
 and final Centralization of the Government. 
 
 1845. Annexation of Texas to the United States. 
 
 VII. The War with the United States. 
 
 1846. Advance of the American General Taylor to Monterey. 
 California and New Mexico taken by the United States. 
 Monterey (Mexico) stormed and captured. 
 
 1847. Battle of Buena Vista, Feb. 23, Chihuahua occupied 
 Feb. 28. 
 
 General Scott entered the Valley of Mexico Aug. 9. 
 Battle of Churubusco, Aug. 20. Battle of “ Casa Mata ” 
 and “Molino del Rey,” Sept. 8. Chapultepec stormed 
 and captured Sept. 13. Entry of American Army into 
 the capital Sept. 15. 
 
 1848. Treaty of Guadalupe-Hid? lgo (Feb. 2) ends war with 
 the United States. 
 
 1856. President Comonfort issued (June 25) decree of desa- 
 mortizacion ordering the sale, at its assessed value, of 
 all landed estate held by the Church. 
 
 1859. Benito Juarez proclaims (July 12) the Reform Laws. 
 
 vni. The French Intervention. 
 
 1861. Treaty of London (Oct. 31) adopted by England, 
 France, and Spain. Their forces arrive in Vera Cruz 
 to carry out provisions of the treaty. 
 
 1862. Treaty of London dissolved. England and Spain with- 
 draw from Mexico. French Army advances and is 
 defeated at Puebla in famous battle of Cinco de Mayo. 
 Suppression of religious orders in Mexico. 
 
 1863. French troops capture Puebla and advance on the 
 capital. The Republican Government retires to San 
 Luis Potosi, thence to Saltillo, and later to Monterey. 
 The French organize a government at the capital and 
 elect Maximilian of Hapsburg Emperor of Mexico. 
 
 IX. The Second Empire. Mexico under the Austrian Archduke 
 Maximilian. 
 
 1864. Maximilian reaches Mexico and is crowned June 12 
 as Emperor of Mexico. 
 
 1865. The United States Government demands the with- 
 drawal of French troops from Mexico. 
 
 1866. The Juarez Government returns to Chihuahua. 
 
 1867. The French troops are withdrawn from Mexico in Feb, 
 General Porfirio Diaz captures Puebla April 2. 
 
ccxxxviii CHIEF EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY 
 
 X. Downfall of the Second Empire. Rise of the Republic. 
 
 1867. Maximilian surrenders May 15 to General Escobedo, 
 at Queretaro. Execution, on June 19, of Maximilian 
 and Generals Mejia and Miramon, at Queretaro. 
 
 General Porfirio Diaz takes the City of Mexico June 21. 
 
 1876. General Porfirio Diaz enters Mexico City (Nov. 24) at 
 the head of a revolutionary army and is proclaimed 
 Provisional President. 
 
 1877. Porfirio Diaz is elected Constitutional President. 
 
 1884. Porfirio Diaz is again made President. 
 
 1888. Porfirio Diaz is again made President. 
 
 1892. Porfirio Diaz is again made President. 
 
 1896. Porfirio Diaz is again made President. 
 
 1900. Porfirio Diaz is again made President. 
 
 The great canal for draining the Valley of Mexico is 
 completed at a cost of sixteen millions of pesos. 
 
 1904. Porfirio Diaz is again made President. 
 
 Guided by the strong and experienced hand of the 
 President, the United Mexican States join the rank of 
 great nations. 
 
 1906. Establishment of the gold standard. 
 
 Great influx of foreigners and foreign capital. 
 
 The Diaz Government inspires confidence, revolutions 
 are things of the past, and 8800,000,000 of foreign 
 capital comes to Mexico. 
 
 1907. The national revenues exceed the expenditures by 
 twenty-nine millions of pesos. 
 
 1905. A shrewd financial plan, conceived by Jose Yvez jj 
 Limantour, Mexico’s greatest Minister of Finance, it 
 places the vast Mexican Central Railway System il 
 under Government control ; the lines are merged with 1 
 the Mexican National System under the title of Los ] 
 Ferrocarriles Nacionales de Mexico. 
 
 1909. Unexampled prosperity marks the Diaz administration, i ! 
 
 1910. Porfirio Diaz, though in his 80th year, is again elected j i 
 President by an overwhelming majority. 
 
 In September the nation celebrates, with great splen- I 
 dor, the 100th anniversary of its independence. 
 
 The Mexican Southern Railway is absorbed by the j 
 National Railways of Mexico. 
 
 The first commercially productive oil-wells in the 
 present Southern District of the Mexican Fields are j 
 brought in by the Huasteca Petroleum Company. 
 
 The P&nuco-Topila Field is developed by the East I 
 Coast Oil Co., and Tampico starts on its phenomenal 
 rise to greatness. 
 
CHIEF EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY ccxxxix 
 
 XI. Contemporary Mexico. 
 
 A Chronological Summary ol 
 The Chief Events in Mexican History. 
 
 From 1910 to 1922 inclusive. 
 
 1910. Recognized everywhere as the “Treasure House of the 
 World,” with an unimpaired credit, Mexico stands at 
 the zenith of its Golden Age of financial prosperity. 
 Francisco Madero, Jr., of Coahuila, issues a book, “ The 
 Presidential Succession of 1910,” in which the Diaz 
 Administration is severely attacked, and the virtues of 
 a democracy are extolled. 
 
 After a personal propaganda against the Federal Gov- 
 ernment, Madero is arrested and sentenced to the peni- 
 tentiary for an indefinite period. 
 
 He is released on bail, Oct. 8, and immediately leaves 
 for Texas. 
 
 In Nov. he returns to Mexico, assembles a small army 
 of adherents, and remains in the vicinity of Ciudad 
 Juarez. 
 
 The riots (in Nov.) in Mexico City are followed by gen- 
 eral revolutionary outbreaks in various cities and states 
 of the Republic. 
 
 1911. Aided by General Francisco Villa (Doroteo Arango), 
 
 the Maderistas capture Ciudad Juarez (May 10) after 
 killing or wounding 330 persons. j 
 
 Madero demands the resignation of Porfirio Diaz. * 
 Great riots (May 24) in Mexico City in which many 
 persons are killed and many wounded. 
 
 President Porfirio Diaz resigns (May 25), and Francisco 
 Leon de la Barra (sometime Ambassador of Mexico at 
 Washington) is made president ad interim (pending an 
 election). 
 
 Porfirio Diaz leaves the capital (May 31) and sails from 
 Vera Cruz on the (Hamburg-American) S.S. Ypiranga 
 for France. 
 
 Madero makes a triumphant entry into Mexico City 
 June 7, — on which day a formidable earthquake sav- 
 agely shakes the city and kills many persons. 
 
 Madero is elected President Oct. 1, and takes the oath 
 of office Nov. 6. 
 
 Emiliano Zapata starts a revolt in the State of Morelos, 
 and sporadic disorders of a like nature flame forth in 
 various parts of the Republic. 
 
 General Bernardo Reyes, former Governor of Nuevo 
 Leon, and Minister of War in the Diaz Cabinet, heads 
 
ccxl CHIEF EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY 
 
 (in Dec.) an abortive revolt in the North, and upon 
 surrendering to the Government forces, is jailed. 
 
 1912. Because of the disorders in Mexico, the U.S. War 
 Department orders 100,000 American troops to make 
 readv for concentration on the Mexican border. 
 
 Four hundred Vasquistas, or followers of Emilio Vas- 
 quez (a former member of the De la Barra Cabinet), 
 occupy (Feb. 27) Ciudad Juarez after its evacuation by 
 the Federals. 
 
 The Washington Department of State warns (March 2) 
 all Americans to withdraw from Mexico. 
 
 General Pascual Orozco, Jr. (Madero’s chief lieutenant 
 in the anti-Diaz movement), heads a revolt (Feb. 28) 
 against the Madero Government; occupies Chihuahua 
 City, and names himself governor of the State. 
 
 The Washington Government prohibits the shipment 
 of arms to Mexican rebels. 
 
 Orozco inflicts a crushing defeat (March 24) on the 
 Federals (at Corralitos and Rellano) led by Generals 
 Aureliano Blanquet, Trucy Albert, and Gonzales Salas. 
 
 — Salas commits suicide on the train which bears him 
 from the field. 
 
 The entire body of American engineers and conductors 
 of the National Railways of Mexico leaves the service 
 and returns to the United States. 
 
 General Victoriano Huerta organizes a new army for 
 the Government; marches north, and defeats the I 
 Orozquistas (July 3) at Bachimba. 
 
 Orozco and his followers abandon Chihuahua and re- I 
 treat to Ciudad Juarez 
 
 The Federals recapture Ciudad Juarez (Aug. 20), rout I 
 the Vasquistas, and quell organized rebellion in the I 
 North against the Madero Government. 
 
 General Felix Diaz (a nephew of Porfirio Diaz) seizes I 
 Vera Cruz Oct. 16 and starts a revolt (which fails) I 
 against the Government. . . . I 
 
 In a second uprising (Oct. 23), Diaz is captured, and I 
 Vera Cruz taken by Federals under General Beltran. 
 Diaz is condemned to death (Oct. 27) by a court mar- ! 
 tial, and pending the execution is confined in the Castle ■ 
 of San Juan de Ulua. , . , 1 
 
 1913. Diaz is taken to Mexico City and is confined in the |j 
 military prison there. Along with Bernardo Reves, he is I 
 'liberated (Feb. 9) by General Mondragon and other U 
 partisans of his cause, and during an attack on the i 
 National Palace, General Reyes is killed. 
 
 At the head of his remaining forces Diaz storms and 
 captures the Arsenal (La Ciudadela ), barricades him 
 self therein, and inaugurates the Decena Trdgica (Iragic r 
 
CHIEF EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY ccxli 
 
 Ten Days), during which several thousand Mexicans 
 are killed. 
 
 General Victoriano Huerta is made Commander-in- 
 Chief of the Federal forces. 
 
 On Feb. 18, at noon, President Madero is overpowered 
 at his quarters in the National Palace, and forced to 
 resign. Lieutenant-Colonel Riveroll and one other are 
 killed, and two others are wounded. 
 
 At 1 p.m. on the same day Vice-President Pino Suarez 
 and his Cabinet are placed under arrest. 
 
 Gustavo Madero (brother to the President) is arrested 
 (2 p.m.) and shot to death at 1 a.m. on the 19th, while 
 being transferred from the Arsenal to the Palace. 
 
 At 6 p.m. Congress met to set up a new government. 
 At 10.15 the resignations of Francisco I. Madero, Jr., 
 and Jos6 Maria Pino Suarez, as President and Vice- 
 President, were accepted. At 10.34 Pedro Lascurain 
 (Minister of Foreign Affairs) succeeded to the Presi- 
 dency, taking the oath before both houses of Congress. 
 His only official act was to name Victoriano Huerta as 
 Minister of Gobernacion, and after this appointment 
 was confirmed, Lascurain presented his resignation as 
 President; which at 11 o’clock was accepted by the 
 Chamber with but one dissenting vote. He had been 
 President of Mexico for twenty-six minutes. All for- 
 malities having been complied with, Victoriano Huerta 
 was now Minister of Gobernacidn, acting as President 
 of Mexico. 
 
 At 12.30 Sunday a.m. Feb. 23, while Madero and Suarez 
 were being conducted from the Palace to the Peniten- 
 tiary, they attempted to escape (according to a report 
 issued at 3 a.m. and signed by the Provisional Presi- 
 dent) and were killed (presumably by shots from a 
 rescuing party). 
 
 A military oligarchy obtains in Mexico, and revolution 
 prevails in many parts of the Republic. 
 
 Venustiano Carranza (Governor of Coahuila under 
 Madero in 1911) heads a revolt (March) against the 
 Huerta Government. Representatives of ten states 
 sign the Plan of Guadalupe, and support Carranza — 
 who styles himself a “Constitucionalista.” 
 
 A sanguinary battle between Federalists under General 
 Ojeda, and Constitucionalistas under General Alvaro 
 Obregon, is fought (May 9 to 12) near Guaymas; 800 
 Federals and 250 Constitucionalistas are killed or 
 wounded. 
 
 Henry Lane Wilson, the American Ambassador, is re- 
 called July 16; he leaves Mexico City July 18, and his 
 resignation is accepted Aug. 4. 
 
ccxlii CHIEF EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY 
 
 Durango and other cities of Northern Mexico are cap- 
 tured and looted by opposing forces. 
 
 John Lind, ex-Governor of Minnesota, is appointed by 
 President Wilson as adviser to the American Embassy 
 (at Mexico City 7 ) Aug. 4, and as the personal represen- 
 tative of the American President, he reaches Vera Cruz 
 Aug. 9. 
 
 Dr. William Bayard Hale leaves Washington (Aug. 10) 
 with instructions from the American State Department, 
 for John Lind, at Vera Cruz. 
 
 General Pancho Villa besieges and captures Torreon 
 (Oct. 1). 
 
 Federal soldiers capture and occupy Ciudad Porfirio 
 Diaz (Oct. 7). 
 
 General Obregon captures Culiacan (Nov. 14). 
 
 1914. President Woodrow Wilson lifts (Feb. 4) the embargo ; 
 on arms for Mexico. 
 
 The town of San Pedro is captured (April 5) by forces 
 under- General Villa. 
 
 John Lind returns (April 7) to the United States. 
 
 The arrest, at Tampico, by soldiers of President Huerta, , 
 of some American marines from the S.S. Dolphin, gives 
 rise (April 9), to the ‘‘Tampico Incident,” and seriously 
 embroils Mexico with the United States. 
 
 Rear-Admiral Mayo, acting under orders from his 
 Government, demands (April 10) a conciliatory salute j 
 to the American flag, which is refused. 
 
 American marines are landed (April 21) at Vera Cruz, 
 and during the struggle for its possession, 17 Americans 
 are killed and 67 wounded; many Mexicans lose their 
 lives. 
 
 The Hamburg-American S.S. Ypiranga reaches Vera 
 Cruz laden with munitions for the Huerta Government, 
 and is denied entrance by the American Navy. 
 
 Nelson O’Shaughnessy, Charge d’Affaires at the Ameri- 
 can Embassy, leaves Mexico City April 23, for Vera 
 Cruz. He is recalled to Washington May 1, and does 
 not return to Mexico. 
 
 Under strong pressure from Washington, President | 
 Huerta resigns (July 15) and leaves for Europe. 
 Francisco Carbajal is made Provisional President, and i 
 he appoints (July 22) General Carranza as Secretary- of | 
 Foreign Affairs. 
 
 Carbajal resigns Aug. 12, and on the 15th, Constitu- i 
 tionalist troops led by General Obregon enter and take ! 
 Mexico City. He is followed (Aug. 20) by General 
 Carranza, who styles himself “First Chief.” 
 
 Paul Fuller, acting as personal representative of Presi- 
 dent Wilson, leaves Washington Sept. 4, for a confer- 
 ence with General Carranza. 
 
CHIEF EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY ccxliii 
 
 General Pancho Villa repudiates Carranza’s leadership, 
 heads a campaign against him, and calls his followers 
 “ Villistas.” Under Villa’s domination, the Mexican 
 National Convention, held at Aguascalientes Nov. 10, 
 appoints Eulalio Gutierrez Provisional President. 
 Coincidentally, General Carranza moves his capital to 
 Puebla, and Generals Villa and Zapata take possession 
 of Mexico City. 
 
 The American troops are withdrawn from Vera Cruz 
 Nov. 23, and General Carranza moves thither. Later 
 he returns to the capital. 
 
 1915. Conditions on the American frontier having become 
 acute, General Villa signs (Jan. 9) an agreement with 
 the U.S. Government to stop brigandage there and to 
 restore tranquillity to Northern Mexico. 
 
 President Gutierrez abandons the capital Jan. 16, and 
 Roque Gonzales Garza is appointed (Jan. 16) President 
 in his stead. General Gutierrez surrenders his troops 
 (Jan. 27) to General Carranza, and on the same day 
 President Garza resigns his office, and with the Con- 
 vention^ t army evacuates the capital. 
 
 General Obregon, at the head of the Carranza forces, 
 enters Mexico City Jan. 28. 
 
 General Carranza expels (Feb. 11) the Spanish Minister 
 Senor Caro. 
 
 General Obregon evacuates the capital on March 10, 
 and General Zapata enters and takes possession of it. 
 Duval West, acting as President Wilson’s personal 
 representative, goes to Mexico March 30. 
 
 Carranza forces under General Obregon defeat the 
 Villistas at Celaya April 15. 
 
 By June the struggle for supremacy between the war- 
 ring factions has become so sanguinary that President 
 Wilson intimates (June 2) intervention unless they 
 settle their differences. 
 
 t General Obregon inflicts a crushing defeat on Generals 
 Villa and Angeles at Leon June 6. 
 
 Roque Gonzales Garza is officially deposed as President 
 (June 9) and Francisco Lagos Chazaro is elected to the 
 , office. 
 
 Ex-President Victoriano Huerta and General Pascual 
 Orozco, Jr., are arrested (June 27) at Newman, New 
 Mexico, charged by the U.S. Government with plotting 
 a revolution against Mexico. 
 
 Porfirio Diaz, former President of Mexico, dies (July 2) 
 in Paris, France, aged 84 years. 
 
 General Pascual Orozco, Jr., escapes from El Paso, 
 Texas, crosses into Mexico and is killed during a raid 
 on the border. 
 
ccxliv CHIEF EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY 
 
 Carranza forces under Pablo Gonzales capture Mexico 
 City July 10. 
 
 A Pan-American Conference, consisting of leading 
 Americans, Mexicans, and representatives from Argen- 
 tina, Brazil, Chile, Bolivia, Uruguay, and Guatemala, 
 meet (June- July) at Niagara Falls, Ontario, for the 
 purpose of appealing to the revolutionary leaders for a 
 cessation of hostilities. 
 
 American interests in Mexico are placed (Aug. 12) in 
 the care of the Brazilian Minister at Mexico City. 
 
 The United States officially recognizes (Oct. 19) Gen- 
 eral Venustiano Carranza as the Chief Executive of the 
 de facto Government of Mexico. 
 
 1916. Nineteen Americans are taken (Jan. 10) from a train 
 near Chihuahua, and are shot to death by bandits re- 
 ported to be under orders from Francisco Villa. 
 Ex-President Victoriano Huerta dies (born 1852) at 
 El Paso, Texas (Jan. 13) shortly after his release from a 
 prison there. 
 
 An army of Mexicans under General Villa attacks 
 (March 9) Columbus, New Mexico, and the camp of 
 the 13th United States Cavalry, killing 8 troopers and 
 9 civilians. 
 
 An American punitive expedition, commanded by Gen- 
 eral Pershing and Colonel Dodd, enters Mexico with 
 the purpose of punishing, capturing, or killing Villa. 
 Brigadier-General Frederic Funston in command of the 
 border situation. 
 
 Mexican bandits raid (May 6) the border town of Glenn 
 Springs, and Boquillas, Texas. 
 
 President Wilson calls out the militia of different States 
 (May 9) to guard the Mexican border, and on June 18 j 
 the National Militia is ordered to mobilize. 
 
 In an encounter (June 21) with Mexican troops at 
 Carrizal, Captain Boyd, Lieutenant Adair, and 11 
 negro cavalrymen are killed; there are numerous fatali- 
 ties among the Mexicans. 
 
 Seventeen negro troopers are captured and taken to I 
 Chihuahua, but are released (June 30) and permitted |j 
 to return to the United States. 
 
 A Commission composed of representative Mexicans fi 
 and Americans meets (Sept. 5) at New London, Conn., j: 
 to discuss the withdrawal of American soldiers from 
 Mexico, and to settle matters pertaining to the revolu- > 
 tion. 
 
 In the last months of 1916, 104.000 American troops | 
 guard the American frontier, while the revolution con- 
 tinues throughout Mexico. 
 
CHIEF EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY ccxlv 
 
 General Carranza, as provisional president, issues 
 (Sept. 30) a decree limiting the term of a president of 
 the Republic to four years and providing for re-election 
 of the chief executive. 
 
 1917. The Pershing Expedition is recalled (Jan. 29), and Maj. 
 Gen. Pershing and his command cross the American 
 border at Columbus, New Mexico, Feb. 6. A new Con- 
 stitution is promulgated (Feb. 6) to go into effect May 
 1st. Henry P. Fletcher, as ambassador for the United 
 States, leaves (Feb. 10) for Mexico. With his staff he 
 reaches the Mexican capital Feb. 19. He carries to 
 Gen. Carranza President Wilson’s recognition of his 
 government. 
 
 General Venustiano Carranza is elected President of 
 Mexico March 11th. He is the first Constitutional 
 President since the death of Francisco I. Madero (Feb. 
 23, 1913). 
 
 In a note to the U. S. Gov’t dated March 17, Mexico 
 declares absolute neutrality in the European War. 
 
 The American Department of State orders (March 18) 
 five Consular Officers to return to their posts in Mexico. 
 General Carranza is inaugurated President of Mexico, 
 May 1st. 
 
 The Mexican Congress empowers (Nov. 21) the Govern- 
 ment to take over all uncultivated lands proper for 
 agricultural purposes. 
 
 1918. In conformity with the new Constitution, a law (Jan. 
 30th) arrogates to the Gov’t the oil-fields in the Tampico 
 district controlled by General M. Pelaez. The Gov’t 
 of the United States protests (May 28) against the 
 confiscatory taxes on oil imposed by the Carranza 
 Gov’t. — The oil operators in opposition. Great 
 Britain joins the U. S. A. (Aug. 16) in diplomatic 
 protest against the oil decree. — Pres’t Carranza, in 
 an address (Aug. 18) to Congress, defends Mexico’s 
 rights but cancels the seizure decree. — The Mexican 
 Gov’t waives rights (Nov. 6) on wells in actual opera- 
 tion. 
 
 1919. The Mexican State of Morelos is occupied (March 17) 
 by Gov’t troops under General Gonzalez, after ten 
 years of maladministration and massacre. The region 
 is stripped of rebels, and Zapata is pursued to the hills 
 — where he is killed (April 12 by Carrancistas). — 
 Revolutionists are active in various parts of the country. 
 — General F. Angeles is proclaimed (May 30) pro- 
 visional president by the Villistas, and Francisco Villa 
 is made Secretary of War. 
 
 1920. Dissatisfaction with the Carranza regime expresses 
 itself (April 1) in political riots in Mexico City. Car- 
 
ccxlvi CHIEF EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY 
 
 ranza refuses (May 2) to resign, and is presented (May 
 5) with an ultimatum. Deciding to move his govern- 
 ment to Vera Cruz, Carranza leaves the capital (May 7). 
 With the aim of restoring peace and progress to Mexico, 
 General Alvaro Obregon, at the head of revolutionary 
 troops, enters and occupies Mexico City May 10. — 
 Pending an election, Adolfo de la Huerta is named 
 provisional president (May 12) by the revolutionists. 
 Pursued by Federal troops, Carranza makes a stand 
 N.-W. of Puebla — where he is killed May 23. His 
 body is brought to the capital May 25. 
 
 Congress meets (May 25) to name a provisional presi- 
 dent, and Adolfo de la Huerta is duly elected. He takes 
 the oath of office June 1. — A general election is fixed 
 for Sept. 5. General Alvaro Obregon is legally elected 
 President of Mexico, and is inaugurated Dec. 1. 
 
 1921. Conditions improve under the Obregon administration. 
 Under a friendly agreement with the Government, 
 General Francisco Villa lays down his arms and retires 
 to private life. 
 
 Recognition of the Obregon Administration by the 
 United States is deferred pending a settlement of 
 various questions, chief among them that pertaining to 
 oil-wells and to agricultural land referred to in Article 
 27 of the new Constitution. 
 
 Oil exports from Mexico reach a total of 200,000,000 
 barrels. 
 
 Centennial festivities commemorating the hundredth 
 anniversary of Mexican Independence are held (in 
 Sept.) in Mexico City, amid great pomp and rejoicing. 
 All the nation joins in the celebration. 
 
 The First International Trade Exposition is held 
 (Sept. -Oct.) in the capital, and is participated in by 
 upward of 700 American companies interested in 
 Mexico’s development. 
 
 1922. Revolutionary movements are suppressed by the 
 Obregbn Government, and peace reigns throughout the 
 Republic. 
 
 The Supreme Court of Mexico decides (May 12) 
 favorably on the non-retroactivity of Article 27, of the 
 New Constitution, with relation to the ownership of 
 oil-lands and other properties. 
 
 Adolfo de la Huerta, Mexican Minister of Finance, 
 visits New York (in July) for a conference with foreign 
 financial representatives to discuss various questions of 
 importance relating to Mexico’s finances. The entire 
 world is hopeful that these preliminaries may result in 
 satisfactory conclusions for Mexico and its connected 
 interests. 
 
BIBLIOGRAPHY 
 
 ccxlvii 
 
 XVII. Bibliography. 
 
 The following is a small selection of books on subjects of 
 interest to the traveller in Mexico. Other works of local value 
 are mentioned throughout the Handbook. 
 
 Historical Works. Histoire des Nations civilisdes du Mexique et de 
 l’Amerique-Centrale, durant les Sidcles anterieurs & Christophe Co- 
 lomb, by Alexander Von Humboldt. 4 vols. (Paris, 1857-59). — Historia 
 General de las Indias Occiden tales, by Antonio de Herrera , 5 vols. 
 (1601-1615). It extends from the year 1492, the time of the discovery 
 of America, to 1554, and is divided into eight decades. The work was 
 subsequently republished in 1730, and has been translated into most of 
 the languages of Europe. — Letters of Hernando Cortes (Lorenzana edi- 
 tion), by Francisco Antonio Lorenzana (Mexico, 1770). “Cortes, like 
 Caesar, wrote his own commentaries,” but his edited letters, with copious 
 footnotes, as assembled by Archbishop Lorenzana , make excellent read- 
 ing. — History of the Conquest of Mexico, by William H. Prescott , 3 vols. 
 (J. B. Lippincott Co., Philadelphia, 1843). Commended. — History of 
 Mexico, by Hubert Howe Bancroft (San Francisco, 1883). The chief 
 events in Mexican history from the time of the Conquest up to 1887 will 
 be found in this admirable work, which, with Prescott’s Conquest, will 
 give the traveller the gist of many histories, such as the works of Oviedo , 
 Herrera , Bernal Diaz , Gomara, Sahagun, Ixtlilxochitl, Camargo, Loren- 
 zana , and others. — Historia de Mejico, 5 vols., by Lucas Alaman 
 (Mexico, 1849-52). — Native Races, H. H. Bancroft , 5 vols. (San Fran- 
 cisco, 1883). — Historia de Mejico desde sus Tiempos mas Remotos hasta 
 Nuestros Dias, by Niceto de Zamacois (Mexico, 1877). — History of the 
 Mexican War, by General Cadmus M. Wilcox (Washington, 1892). — 
 Scott's Memoirs. An autobiography (New York, 1 864). — The War with 
 Mexico, by R. S. Ripley (New York, 1849). —History of the War be- 
 tween Mexico and the United States, Brantz Mayer (N. Y. 1848). — 
 Mexico, Aztec, Spanish, and Republican, by Brantz Mayer (Hartford, 
 1853). — A Short History of Mexico, by Arthur Howard Noll (Chicago, 
 1903).— From Empire to Republic (by the same author). — “Porfirio 
 Diaz,” by Mrs. A. Tweedie (London, 1907). — Letters of Cortes, by 
 Francis Augustus MacNutt (N. Y. 1908). — Biografias de Mexicanos 
 Distinguidos, by Francisco Sosa (Mex. 1884). — The True History of the 
 Conquest of Mexico, by Bernal Diaz del Castillo , (3 Vols. translated by 
 A. P. Maudslay. Hakluyt Society, London, 1908). 
 
 Works on Art. Spanish-Colonial Architecture in Mexico, by Sylvester 
 Baxter (Boston, J. B. Millet & Co.), is a book with many fine, hand-colored 
 photographs of churches, secular buildings, facades, etc. It is recom- 
 mended as an aid to a proper understanding of Architecture in Mexico. 
 — Mexican Painting and Painters, by Robert H. Lamborn (Allen, Lane & 
 Scott, Philadelphia), a subscription book (generally to be found in Public 
 Libraries) limited to 500 copies. — Investigations and Studies in Jade, 
 by Heber R. Bishop (privately printed, New York, 1906), a magnificent 
 work found only in National Libraries. — El Arte en Mexico en la Epoca 
 Antigua y Durante El Gobierno Virreinal, by Manuel G. Revilla (pub- 
 lished by the Mex. Government, Mexico City, 1900). — Resena Historica 
 de la Pintura Mexicana en los Siglos XVII y XVIII, by Rafael Lucio 
 (Mexico, 1864). — Maiolica of Mexico, by Edwin Atlee Barber (Phila- 
 delphia, 1908). 
 
 The Mexican Custom-House Tariff and most of the Mexican Laws 
 
 of direct interest to foreigners, such as the Mining Law, Regulations 
 Governing Collection of Coinage, Stamps, Refining, etc.; Federal Stamp 
 Law; Public Lands Law; Patent Laws; Commercial, Civil, and Penal 
 Codes; Banking, Trade-mark, Railway, and similar laws have been trans- 
 lated into English and can be bought at any of the book-shops. Here also 
 can usually be found books on the Cultivation in Mexico of Coffee, To- 
 bacco, Cotton, Rubber, and whatnot. Likewise Spanish-English diction- 
 aries, Phrase-Books, Maps, Spanish Grammars or Methods, Histories of 
 the different Mexican States, of the Mines; Town and Mining Directories, 
 the Mexican Constitution, etc. 
 
ccxlviii 
 
 BIBLIOGRAPHY 
 
 Books of Description and Travel. Mexico in 1827, by H. G. Ward \ 
 
 (London, 1828). — Mexico, Aztec, Spanish, and Republican, by Brantz j 
 Mayer (Hartford, 1853). — Life in Mexico during a residence of two 
 years in that country (an admirable work), by Madame Calderon de la 
 Barca (London, 1843). — Incidents of Travel in Yucatan, by John L. 
 Stephens (New York, 1843). — Incidents of Travel in Central America, 
 Chiapas, and Yucatan, by John L. Stephens (N. Y. 1867). The two 
 latter are the best books extant on the famous ruined cities of Yucatan 
 and Chiapas. — Notes on Mexico in 1861-62, by Charles Lem priere (Lon- 
 don, 1S62). — The ethnologist and naturalist will find unusual pleasure in 
 the admirable work, “Unknown Mexico ” (2 vols., by Carl Lumholtz, M. A. 
 (Charles Scribner’s Sons, New York, 1902). — In Indian Mexico, by 
 Frederick Starr (Chicago, 1908). — Two Bird-Lovers in Mexico, by C. i 
 William Beebe (Boston, 1905). — Through Southern Mexico (Travels of 
 a Naturalist), by Hans Gadow , M.A . , Ph.D., F. R. S. (London, 1908). — 
 Travels in Mexico, by Frederick Ober (Boston, 1883). — The Desert, 
 by John C. Van Dyke (N. Y. 1902). — Mexico as it Was and as it Is, by 
 Brantz Mayer (N. Y. 1844). — The Mines of Mexico, by J. R. Southicorth 
 (London, 1906). — The Freshwater Fishes of Mexico North of the Isthmus 
 of Tehuantepec, by S. E. Meek (Chicago, 1904). 
 
 Archaeologists will find much to interest them in the several excellent 
 books on the Ancient Ruins in the Valley of Mexico, by the erudite Dr. 
 Manuel Gamio, Director of Anthropology in that Dept, of the Seeretaria \ 
 de Agricultura y Fomento , of Mexico. — Ancient Civilizations of Mexico 
 and Central America, by Herbert J. Spinden (American Museum of Natural 
 History, N.Y. 1917). — Mexican and Central American Antiquities, Cal- 
 endar Systems and History (24 papers by various authors, translated from ! 
 the German and issued in Bulletin 28, of the Bureau of American Ethnol- 
 ogy, Washington, 1994'). — The Ancient Cities of the New World, by D. 
 Charnay (London, 1887). — Archaeological studies among the Ancient 
 Cities in Mexico, Publications by the Field Columbian Museum (Chicago, 
 1895-97). — Mexican Archaeology, an Introduction to the Architecture 
 of the Mexican and Maya Civilizations of pre-Spanish America, by T. A. 
 Joyce (New r York & London, 1914). j 
 
 Flora and Fauna. Biologfa Centrali- Americana, or Contributions to the 
 Knowledge of the Flora and Fauna of Mexico and Central America, by 
 .4. P. Maudslay (London, 1889-1902). 
 
 Native Languages. The student interested in the Native Languages 
 may consult the following books, most of which will be found in the 
 Biblioteca Nacional at Mexico City : 
 
 Arte de la Lengua Mexicana, by Juan Guerra. Ditto, by Francisco de 
 Avila. — Arte de la Lengua Tarasca, by Diego Basalenque. — Arte del 
 Idioma Maya, by Pedro Beltran. — Arte del Idioma Zapotec, by Juan de 
 Cordova. — Gramatica de la Lengua Zoque, by Jose M. Sanchez. — Dis- 
 ertacidn sobre la Lengua Othomi, by Manuel de San Juan Crisostemov^ 
 Kdxera. — Geografia de las Lenguas y Carta Etnografica de Mexico, by 11 
 Manuel Orozco y Berra. — Estuaios Gramaticales sobre el Nahuatl. by , 
 Macario Torres. — Yocabulario Castello-Zapoteco, by the Junta Colom- j j 
 biana (Mex. 1893). — Arte de la Lengua Cahita, by Padre Juan B. de 
 V fiasco (the Cahita tongue is spoken by the Yaquis of Sonora and the ‘ 
 Mavos of Sinaloa. The book was printed about 1600, and reprinted by the 1 
 Federal Government in 1 891). — An extensive treatise on various of the • 
 Indian tribes and languages will be found in the Obras Completas de-Donl 
 Francisco Pimcntrd (Mexico, 1903). One of the best copies extant of that! 
 rare work, El Arte de la Lengua Tarasca o de Michoacan, por el R. P- 
 Fray Maturino Gilberti, de la orden de San Francisco, impreso en Mejico I 
 en el aho 1558, is in the private library of Mr. F. W. Davis, of Mexico City. 
 
 The student interested in criminology is referred to Los Criminales enj 
 Mexico, by Carlos Roumagnac (Mexico, 1906). 
 
 The gourmand will be interested in 101 Mexican Dishes, by May L.\ 
 Southicorth. 
 
 The student of Spanish Heraldry in New Spain should consult Los 
 Condes de Santiago, by Villasenor (a rare book, on file in the Biblioteca! 
 Nacional, and to be met with sometimes in old book-stalls). Also a Libro 
 relativo a Titulos de Nobleza de Familias de Mexico, by Ricardo Ortega 
 
 J 
 
BIBLIOGRAPHY ccxlix 
 
 y Perez Gallardo (Mexico). Books of this class are also occasionally to be 
 had at the Antique Shops of Mexico City. 
 
 The doings of the Inquisition in Mexico are described in Autos-de-Fd 
 Celebrados por la Inquisicion de Mexico, by Alejandro Arango y Escandon 
 (in the Nat. Library at Mex. City). 
 
 Mexican Etiquette. Manual de Urbanidad, by Antonio Carreno (Mexico, 
 
 1911). 
 
 Fiction. The Fair God, by General Lew Wallace (New York, 1887). — 
 Montezuma’s Daughter, by H. Rider Haggard (N. Y. 1905). — Cuauhte- 
 moc, by Dona Gertrudis Gomez de Avellaneda (Mexico, 1898). — The 
 Aztec Treasure House, by Thomas A. Janvier (N. Y. 1890). — Legends of 
 the City of Mexico, by Thomas A. Janvier (N. Y. 1910). 
 
 Libraries. The Biblioteca Nacional at Mexico City (p. 231) is a mine of 
 information for the student interested in ancient and modern Mexico. 
 One of the finest private libraries in the Republic is that of Mr. G. R. Gra- 
 ham Conway (of Mexico City), the scholarly author of various interesting 
 monographs on Mexican ecclesiastical architecture and other subjects. 
 
 Commerce. Of particular interest to commercial men and others doing 
 business with Mexico is A Commercial and Industrial Handbook of Mexico 
 by P. L. van Buren Bell , Trade Commissioner of the U. S. Department of 
 Commerce, and author of similar books on Bolivia and Columbia. It aims 
 to facilitate commercial relations with Mexico, and it may be had upon ap- 
 plication to the above-named department at Washington. — Present and 
 Past Banking in Mexico, by Walter Flavius Me Caleb. — Trading with Mex- 
 ico, by Wallace Thompson (N. Y. 1922). 
 

 
 
I. NORTH-EASTERN MEXICO, 
 
 1. From Laredo (Texas) via Monterey and Saltillo to 
 
 San Luis Potosi ( Queretaro and Mexico City) . . 1 
 
 Laredo, 2. The Rio Grande del Norte, 2. 
 
 2. Monterey 5 
 
 Arrival, 5. Cabs, 5. Tram-cars, 5. Hotels, 5. Baths, 5. 
 Banks, 5. Post and Telegraph Offices, 5. Consuls, 5. 
 Clubs, 5. Secret Societies, 5. Stores, 5. History and Char- 
 acter of the City, 6. El Obispado Viejo, 9. Storming of 
 Monterey, 9. Excursion to the Garcia Caves, 9. Topo 
 Chico Hot Springs, 10. State of Nuevo Leon, 11. 
 
 3. From Monterey to Tampico 11 
 
 From Matarnoros-Brownsville to Monterey, 12. From 
 Monterey to Reata, 12. 
 
 4. Saltillo 12 
 
 From Saltillo to Torreon (Coahuila & Pacific Railway), 13. 
 
 From Saltillo to Concepcicin (Ferrocarril Coahuila y 
 Zacatecas), 13. State of Coahuila, 13. Battlefield of 
 Buena Vista, 15. Real de Catorce, 16. 
 
 5. San Luis Potosi 17 
 
 History, 1 7. State of San Luis Potosi, 20. 
 
 i. From Laredo (Texas) via Monterey and Saltillo to 
 San Luis Potosi (Queretaro and Mexico City). 
 
 Mexico City, 1292 Kildmetros (803 M.). Daily trains (with Pullman and 
 buffet service) in about 30 hrs. (which later will be reduced). For fares, 
 see the rate per mile at p. xxxi. Special through rates in connection with 
 American Railways are quoted (consult a ticket agent, or the rly. folder). 
 
 The Railway (operated by the National Railways' 1 of f Mexico, Ferro - 
 carriles Nacionales de Mexico) is often referred to as the Laredo Route. The 
 trains are excellent, the service trustworthy, and the rates reasonable. On 
 the journey to the Valley of Mexico the train crosses the States of Tamauli- 
 pas (in which Nuevo Laredo is situated), Nuevo Leon, Coahuila, San Luis 
 Potosf, Guanajuato, Queretaro, and Hidalgo before penetrating the State 
 of Mexico. The country and the people are picturesque, and the trip is 
 delightful. — The Matamoros- Brownsville Line, the Mexico connection 
 of the Gulf Coast Lines from New Orleans, joins the main line at Monterey, 
 and is referred to at p. 12. 
 
 Trains leave from the International & Great Northern Railway Station on 
 the Texas side of the Rio Grande, then cross the new international bridge 
 (completed in Feb., 1922, to replace one burned in April, 1920) to the Estacion 
 de los Ferrocarriles Nacionales de Mexico, at Nuevo (new) Laredo, Mexico. 
 
 All shipments (including baggage not checked through and unaccom- 
 
 E anied by the owner) into or out of Mexico must be sent in the care of a 
 onded custom-house broker at the border — who will attend to the passing 
 of them through the custom-house and the forwarding to destination. 
 Travellers who cannot accomoany their luggage often find it convenient to 
 forward keys, etc. to the broker at the frontier and have trunks, etc. (which 
 otherwise would be held up and accumulate heavy storage charges) passed 
 and forwarded. Also prospective residents shipping furniture, those who 
 
2 Route 1. 
 
 LAREDO 
 
 From Laredo 
 
 have made purchases in Mexico or the U. S. A., and shippers generally. 
 The Laredo, Texas, firm of Brennan & Leonard are recommended because of 
 their long experience in custom-house formalities, and their trustworthiness. 
 Shipping forms, Customs declarations, Exemption blanks and other data will 
 be sent on request to Brennan & Leonard, Customs Brokers, Laredo, Texas. 
 Hand-baggage is examined on the cars while in transit: trunks are taken 
 (by the riy. employees) to the inspection room in the station (Mex. side), 
 where the examination is prompt and lenient. Passengers should attend 
 personally to the customs inspection of their luggage. Unclaimed trunks 
 are held until the owner presents himself or sends some one 'with the keys. 
 Ample time is allowed, and the formalities are similar to those at El Paso, 
 described at p. 22. (Comp. Custom-House, p. xiv.) After the luggage is 
 examined it must be re-checked, in the check-room at the end of the in- 
 spect ing-room. Ask the baggage-man ( guarda de equipajes) to wire-seal 
 trunks. 
 
 When travellers leave Mexico through Laredo, luggage is examined 
 first on the Mexican side, to see if it contains archaeological antiquities 
 (whose exportation is forbidden), and byU. S. customs inspectors on the 
 American side for articles that pay duty under the American regulations. 
 The examination is more or less rigid, but none the less courteous. For 
 reference to Custom-House and duty-free articles see p. xvi. 
 
 The International & Great Northern Riy. Depot is within a few minutes’ 
 walk of the business centre of Laredo, Texas. Trains on the Texas-Mexican 
 R.R. (known locally as the Tex.-Mex.) leave from this station for (162 M.) 
 Corpus Christi. — The Rio Grande & Eagle Pas? Riy. Depot is 7 squares 
 N.-W. of the Plaza N acional (3 squares N. of the I & G. N. station). 
 
 Laredo Hotels. Hotel Hamilton , facing the Plaza Jarvis. — Hotel 
 Bender. — Travellers' Hotel. Rates in all from $1.50 to $3 a day for rooms. 
 Meals a la carte. 
 
 Time. Laredo uses Central (or 90th Meridian) Time, which is one hour 
 faster than the Mountain (105th Meridian) Time used in Mexico. On 
 entering Mexico set watches back one hour. 
 
 Banks. Where Mexican or American money can be exchanged, Travellers’ 
 Checks, Letters of Credit, etc. cashed: Laredo National Bank, a strong, 
 widely known institution with many interests in Mexico. 
 
 Books on Mexico, guides, Spanish interpreters, maps, Mexican Laws 
 and Codes, and many things pertaining to Mexico, at the Sonora News Go. 
 Store at 420 Flores Ave. 
 
 Laredo (pop. 26,000) a handsome, progressive, bi-lingual 
 city on the left bank of the Rio Grande, in Webb County, 
 Texas, often referred to as the Gateway to Mexico, one of the 
 most promising of the border cities, typically Texan with a 
 tinge of Mexican picturesqueness, has an able Chamber of 
 Commerce, strong banking institutions, many fine buildings, 
 several good hotels, and is the most important import and ex- 
 port centre on the Texas-Mexico border. A huge business 
 (amounting to something like 10 million dollars annually) is 
 conducted with Mexico, and many thousands of Mexicans 
 pass annually through the city to visit or better their fortunes 
 m the United States. It is an unusually attractive place. 
 Both Mexican and American money pass current, and most of 
 the Laredo merchants speak Spanish equally with English. 
 
 Laredo 1 is known throughout the United States for the pro- 
 
 1 Laredo (named for a Spanish nobleman of the 18th century) was first 
 settled in 1763. In 1767 the King of Spain appointed Don Juan Fernando 
 to survey the land and give to each of the families settled there a section 
 comprising 5,314 acres with a river frontage of 1,000 yards. Some of these 
 old land grants still exist. 
 
to Mexico City . 
 
 NUEVO LAREDO 
 
 1. Route. 3 
 
 duction (about 1,500 carloads a year) of delicious Bermuda 
 onions which are shipped to almost every prominent city in the 
 Union, and which are regarded as superior to the original prod- 
 uct. Also for an excellent native cabbage (300 carloads annu- 
 ally), spinach (100 carloads), and numerous minor crops. 
 The benignity of the climate is proved by the fact that the 
 crops attain their greatest development (seed time Aug.- 
 Sept., harvest in May) while blizzards and biting cold hold the 
 North and East in their icy grip. In the immediate environs 
 of Laredo vast quantities of alfalfa and the much-prized long- 
 staple Pima (Egyptian) cotton are produced. A modern roller 
 cotton-gin (first to be erected in the State) has been built to 
 gin this valuable crop. 
 
 The sempiternal sunshine which pours ceaselessly down 
 upon this region seems to charge the soil with unlimited life- 
 giving energy, and bumper crops spring forth in return for the 
 slightest effort. Laredo could support a population greatly in 
 excess of its present one, and the district offers practically 
 everything a settler might desire, — a delightful and dependa- 
 ble climate, extraordinarily productive land at a reasonable 
 price, cheap labor — for Mexicans like the life on the American 
 side, and there is practically an unlimited supply of faithful 
 workers — modern schools, all the benefits of a good local 
 government, an unlimited market for everything the farmer 
 produces, and golden sunshine the greater part of the year. 
 
 Nuevo (new) Laredo, on the Mexico side of the Rio Grande, 
 in the State of Tamaulipas, with a population of 10,000 and an 
 altitude of 459 ft. (1J miles lower than Mexico City) : was 
 founded by Spaniards in 1767. It contains but little to inter- 
 est the traveller and it should not be viewed as representative 
 of the great Republic to the south. The Plaza Zaragoza , in 
 the centre of the town, is attractive — as are all Mexican 
 plazas. At the Tedtro Independence one can usually see good 
 American and Mexican moving pictures, as the films are 
 supplied by the celebrated Circuito Olimpia , S. A. of Mexico 
 Citv. 
 
 We begin our long journey to the capital through a country 
 which differs but little from that on the Am. side of the Rio 
 Grande. The line curves to the r. and passes an old Campo 
 Santo on the crest of a hill. The river winds away to the 
 S. and disappears behind a rise in the landscape. The country 
 is green and attractive in the rainy season (June-Sept.), 
 but dry and jejune during the remainder of the year. The 
 broad prairies are covered with mesquite scrub, the haunt 
 of many Jack-rabbits, coyotes, horned toads and minor 
 reptilia. This stretch of territory is one of the few in the Mex. 
 Republic that does not show mountains against the sky- 
 line. We pass the unimportant stations of 11 M. Sanchez v and 
 19 M. Jarita . 
 
4 Route 1. 
 
 LAMPAZOS 
 
 From Laredo 
 
 31 M. Huisachito , a nondescript town whose diminutive • 
 shacks are plastered with coyote and sheep skins — the 1 
 killer and the killed. The absence of the bird life which ! 
 should naturally haunt a sub-tropical region is explained [ 
 by the presence of sailing hawks, who search the ground with j 
 sharp, investigating eyes and pick up, from time to time, 
 unwary rabbits, prairie-dogs, and succulent lizards; which ! 
 latter, if caught by the tail, decentralize it, in some curious 
 way, and scuttle off and leave it as a clammy reminder of rep- j 
 tilian duplicity and astuteness. We enter the State of Nuevo 
 Leon (p. 11). 37 M. Camaron. We cross a narrow creek ( Salado 
 — salt) flowing through a gorge which intersects the plain. 
 
 44 M. Rodriguez. The views are somewhat monotonous and 
 only the trees save them from becoming irksome to the eye. 
 54 M. Mesa. 58 M. Mojina. 63 M. Naranjo. We enter a 
 region of trees, w T ith mountains on the r. and 1. 
 
 72 M. Lampazos. Rly. restaurant. Meals $1. The old 
 Mexican town lies about 1 M. to the E. of the station. Cabs 
 (50 c.) meet trains. Stock-raising is the chief industry of the 
 region, and its proceeds support the pop. of 7,000. Behind , 
 the town rise the blue crests of the Eastern Cordilleras. 
 Opposite it is a table-topped hill with perpendicular walls 
 a thousand or more ft. high, and a flat summit containing 
 nearly a thousand acres of arable land. The only road to the 
 top is a rocky, zigzag trail so narrow that only a man 
 or a mule may pass. A dwindling community of poor Indians 
 dwells on this mesa, where the soil is fertile. Formerly it was 
 the home of a powerful Indian tribe, the Cartujanos , so called 
 by the Spaniards who established a Benedictine mission 
 among them three centuries or more ago. One mile from the 
 town, in the foothills, is a splendid spring ( ojo ae agua) of 
 pure and clear water, whence the town gets its supply. We 
 proceed southward over a fairly level country delimned by 
 serrated hills. 85 M. Salome Botello. 
 
 106 M. Bustamante. Hard by, are the lees of a colony of 
 Tlascalan Indians whose forefathers were the allies of Her nan I 
 Cortes in his celebrated siege of Montezuma’s capital. The 
 first settlers travelled northward with the Spanish con- 
 querors four centuries ago, aiding them in their petty wars 
 with the various tribes and peopling the conquered territory. ! 
 The town of Bustamante is at the far r. hidden by trees, f 
 Vehicles from the station, 50 c. Good views across the sur- i 
 rounding country. 109 M. Villaldama. We cross a well- j 
 cultivated valley to 117 M. Alamo , amid corn-fields. Beyond 
 are many cacti and we soon enter a thin forest of tall yuc- 
 cas, the outposts of many miles of similar forests further down 
 the line. 130 M. Stevenson. ;m| 
 
 148 M. Salinas. We cross a small river spanned by a steel I 
 bridge and traverse a well-cultivated valley cut up by irri- 
 
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 MONTEREY 
 
 2. Route. 5 
 
 gating ditches and dotted with trees. The mountains to the 
 r. rise in tooth-like peaks and are known as Dientes. The 
 hills close in as we approach Monterey. 153 M. Ramon 
 Trevino. 
 
 The Bishop's Palace, a Monterey landmark (p. 9), stands on 
 the crest of a hill at the far r. The curious Silla, or Saddle 
 Mountain is seen to good advantage (1) after we pass Mat- 
 amor os Junction and we approach the Monterey station. 
 167 M. Monterey. For a continuation of the journey see p. 12. 
 
 2. Monterey. 
 
 Arrival. There is a Union Railway Station, E station de los Ferrocarriles 
 Nacionales de Mexico , where all trains arrive and depart. Rly. restaurant. 
 
 Taxis; Cabs (see p. xxxviii). Taxis (for 2-3 persons) S3 an hr.; SI. 50 for 
 \ hr. or less. Cabs (buggy) SI. 50 an hr.; 75 c. for \ hr. or less. Auto for 4 
 pers. S4 an hr., S2 for £ hr. or less. All higher on Sundays and feast days. 
 
 | Stands at various places in the city. 
 
 Tramcars ( tranvlas ) criss-cross the city and are much used by the eco- 
 nomically inclined. Good service. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). Hotel Ancira; Hotel Colonial; Hotel America; all 
 near the Plaza Zaragosa (PI. E. 4). Rates; rooms only from S3 to $8. Meals 
 in the restaurant a la carta. 
 
 Banks. Banco de Nuevo Le6n (correspondents of the Mexico City Bank- 
 ing Corporation, S. A.), Calle Morelos (PI. D. 4). Banque Francaise, Calle 
 Dr. Mier y Galeana (PI. D. 4). 
 
 Telegraph-Office ( Telegrafos Federates ), Calle Morelos (PI. D. 4). 
 
 Post-Office ( Corteo ), south side of the Cathedral. 
 
 Clubs ( casinos , clubs). Foreign Club, upstairs over the Sonora News Co. 
 
 ; Store, facing the Plaza Zaragoza (PI. E. 4). El Casino, facing the Plaza 
 Zaragoza. — German Club, Calle Matamoros. 
 
 Amusements : Theatres & Moving Pictures. There are a number of Mo- 
 tion Picture Houses, but the best films can usually be seen at the Tedtro 
 Independencia, and the Salon Variedades “ El Progreso .” Both specialize 
 on American films. 
 
 American store where Travellers’ Requisites, American newspapers, 
 
 I magazines, Fountain Pens, Cameras and supplies, Books, Clothing and 
 many American Specialties can be found, The Sonora News Company, 
 
 B facing the Plaza Zaragoza (PI. E. 4). English spoken. There are a number 
 j of attractive native shops but they do not always stock the things travellers 
 want. 
 
 Consuls ( cdnsules ) of many nations maintain offices in Monterey, but 
 1 as locations are apt to change, the traveller is advised to consult the local 
 I directory. 
 
 Secret Societies. The Masonic Temple is in the Calle Lerdo de Tejada. 
 The Knights of Pythias, Woodmen of the World, and several other societies 
 i meet here. For addresses see the newspapers or the local directory. 
 
 Railway Lines run from Monterey to Tampico (Route 3, p. 11) ; to Tor- 
 reon (p. 36), to Matamoros (p. 12), to Laredo, p. 1, and to Mexico City 
 ! (p. 121 ; to Reata (p. 100). For time of departure of train, and other informa- 
 
 I tion, consult the Rly. Folder or the Guia Oficial. 
 
 Excursions. There are several places in the environs which the traveller 
 with time to spare may like to visit. Topo Chico, with its mineral springs, 
 
 | is described at p. 10. — The Garcia Caves (described at pp. 9-10), are not as 
 | extensive or as interesting as the remarkable Cacahuamilpa Caverns (de- 
 F scribed at p. 454), but they are easy of access. Explorations are in progress 
 and some of the new salons are worth seeing. 
 
 The traveller interested in Mexico’s wonderful oil development may 
 inspect this in all its details at Tampico, described at p. 48. There is a 
 frequent and good train service. The country between the two cities is 
 semi-tropical, extraordinarily rich, and unfailingly picturesque. Tampico 
 
MONTEREY 
 
 6 Route 2. 
 
 From, Laredo 
 
 itself is well worth a visit. It is perhaps destined to be one of the greatest 
 cities in the Republic, if not in Latin America. 
 
 Monterey ( King's Mountain ), 1,500 ft. above the sea, with a 
 population of about 100,000, in the picturesque and fertile 
 valley of the Santa Catarina (St. Catherine) River is the seat 
 of a bishop and formerly was the largest and most important 
 city in northern Mexico; but the phenomenal rise of Tampico, 
 322 miles southeast, on the Gulf of Mexico, has drawn some of 
 its industries thither and slightly checked its progress. 
 
 The city is almost surrounded by mountains, and its some- 
 what peculiar geographical position (about 200 M. north of the ! 
 Tropic of Cancer) gives it a variable climate, with a tempera- ; 
 ture which ranges from 86° Fahr. in summer to 30° in the short ; 
 winter. Light snow-falls mark the months of Jan. and Feb. 
 Despite somewhat brusque climatic changes, the region is 
 healthy. 
 
 Monterey is an interesting, bi-lingual city, essentially i 
 Mexican, but with a foreign aspect which reminds one of 
 a Texas frontier city. The number of light, wheeled vehicles 
 one sees in the streets accentuates this impression. The in- 
 habitants are intelligent and progressive, with a good local 
 government and considerable civic pride. Almost as much 
 English is spoken as Spanish, and both American and Mexican 
 money pass current. 
 
 Monterey’s many advantages early attracted the attention; 
 of Americans, and in due course the colonia americana became i 
 an important factor in the city’s life. To-da}- it is one of the! 
 most American cities in the Republic, and the Mexicans say it; 
 is muy americanizado — much Americanized. 
 
 The locality first appeared in history about 1560, at which time the; 
 conquering Spaniards were marching northward, wresting territory from 1 
 the Indians and establishing outposts and missions as they advanced.; i 
 When these conquist adores entered the region hereabout, Francisco de 
 Urdinola, captain of the expedition, called it El Nuevo Reino de LeonA 
 (new kingdom of Leon — lion) after the Spanish Province of that name. 
 It was sparsely settled by nomad savages who lived by the chase. As the 
 new territory was of great promise it was quickly settled by Spanish ad- 
 venturers who had crowded to Mexico City to there await news of new 
 conquests of land or the location of rich mines. In 1579 Felipe II ap- 
 pointed Don Luis Carbajal y de la Cueva Governor of the Province, the 
 principal Spanish settlement of which was the pueblo of Santa Lucia. In ■ 
 1585 the name of this outpost was changed to Ciudad de Leon , and in 
 1 596 Don Caspar de Zuniga y Acevedo, Count of Monterey, then \ iceroy 
 (9th) of New Spain, named it La Ciudad Metropolitano de Nuestra Sefiorc 
 de Monterey — the metropolitan city of Our Lady of M. It was for long; i 
 a frontier post of the advancing civilization. 
 
 The finest building in the city is the new Palacio de Go- 
 bierno, on the Plaza Cinco de Mayo (PI. E, 3), completed! 
 in 1908 at a cost of one million pesos. The red sandstone 
 used in the 8 fluted Composite pillars and pilasters of the peri- 
 style and in the ornamentation of the facade is from quarries! 
 near San Luis Potosf. In the centre of the plaza is a noble 
 monument to Benito Juarez, with commemorative tablets 
 
to San Luis Potosi. 
 
 MONTEREY 
 
 2. Route. 7 
 
 advising that the “State of Nuevo Leon erected it in 1906 
 to celebrate the one hundredth anniversary of his birth 
 that “he saved the Constitution in 1857 “dictated the 
 Reform Laws in 1859”; and “safe-guarded the country 
 during the foreign intervention of 1862 and 1867.” The 
 allegory of a little child leading a lion by a wreath of flowers 
 is very striking. The six stained-glass windows of the portico 
 are the work of the house of Pellandini, of Mex. City. View- 
 ing these from the inside of the building, the first on the r. 
 is Benito Juarez; 2d, General Zaragoza (the hero of the battle 
 of Puebla, p.510) ; 3d, General Juan Zuazua , one-time governor 
 of Nuevo Leon and a hero in the War of the Reform. The 1st 
 on the 1. is Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla , fugleman of Mexican Inde- 
 pendence; 2d, General Escobedo , 3d, Padre Mier, both* promi- 
 nent figures in the history of the State. No permit is necessary 
 to inspect the building. In an ante sala of the upper floor 
 is a glass case containing three old guns of the Nuevo Leon 
 battalion which were employed in giving the tiro de gracia 
 to the Emperor Maximilian, and Generals Miramon and 
 Mejia at Queretaro (see p. ccxxxi). Each fusil is marked with 
 the name of the soldier and that of the man shot with it. 
 An old standard of the 2d Battalion of the Mexican Empire 
 under Maximilian hangs in the case. The painting of General 
 Don Porfirio Diaz is the work of A. Vargas, in 1898. The 
 sculptured woodwork in the large Salon de Recepcion is by 
 Mexican artisans. The faded allegorical scenes in the ceiling 
 are the work of Guerini, an Italian painter. 
 
 From the front windows of the upper story the Sierra 
 Madre Range is seen to fine advantage as it stands out boldly 
 against the sky. At the crest of the nearest foothills is the 
 one-time residence, called Mirador , of the State Governor. 
 The views of the bizarre Saddle Mountain (so called because 
 of its resemblance to a saddle) on the E., and the odd Mitre 
 Mt. ( la mitra) on the S.-W., behind the Obispado, are very 
 attractive. Another Mt., Topo Grande , is visible in the S . The 
 semi-tropic aspect of the town, with its occasional palmetto, 
 rising above the tree-tops, is very pleasing to Northern eyes. 
 The old church (uninteresting) immediately back of the palacio 
 is the Sagrado Corazon de Jesus. 
 
 The Cathedral, a massive structure with a single tower, 
 on the E. side of the Plaza de Zaragoza (PI. E, 4), was begun 
 in 1630 but remained unfinished till 1800, and it was not 
 dedicated until July 4, 1833. It was badly damaged during the 
 American invasion of 1846-47, when it was used by the troops 
 as a powder magazine and was subjected to several fierce 
 bombardments. The austerity of its construction and the 
 paucity of works of art in the interior are due to its not 
 having had rich mines, to aid in its support. Its distance 
 from Puebla — long the centre of tile (comp. p. lxxi) pro- 
 
8 Route 2. MONTEREY From Laredo p 
 
 duction in the Crown Colony — accounts for the absence of 
 those decorative features which lend such charm to other J 
 Mexican churches. The cruciform interior, with its single jA 
 nave and two lateral aisles, contains nothing to interest the I 
 traveller. The time-stained Assumption of the Virgin above I 
 the high altar is an indifferent copy of Murillo's celebrated I 
 painting in the Guadalajara Cathedral. The main figure of I 
 this altar is a polychrome statue (of Spanish origin) of the I 
 Immaculate Conception, to which santa the ch. is dedicated. I 
 The siller ia at the 1. of the altar is not worth looking at. The I 
 choir and its organ occupy the left transept. The sacristy is a 1 
 bare room with no pictures of merit. The crudely carved facade 1 
 exemplifies a local workman’s idea of the Baroque. The Cata- I 
 Ionian belfry above the modern clock is a pleasing reminder 1 
 of early Mission days, but the tin cockerel which surmounts it I 
 and acts as a weather-vane is a wholly incongruous addition. 1 
 The Bishop’s residence ( arzobispado ) adjoins the building on I 
 the S. Flanking the Cathedral on the N. is the Casino I 
 de Monterey (PL E, 4), the most popular of the city clubs, 1 
 with sumptuous interior decorations, and a large member- I 
 ship. 
 
 The old Parochial Church of San Francisco, one block S. 8 
 of the plaza (PL D, 4), is the most interesting architectural I 
 antique in the city. It dates from 1590 and was founded I 
 as the Parroquia de San Francisco with San Andres as its 1 
 patron saint. It is the oldest of the city churches and is a I 
 good example of the austere but sturdy architecture classi- 1 
 fied as the Early Franciscan, and described at p. cxxix. Its 1 
 quaint interior, which opens on to the old cloister, is worth I 
 inspecting. Very few of the existing Mexican churches retain I 
 the curious old cross-beams, in the ceiling, that are features 1 
 of this structure, and its counterpart at Coyoacan (p. 408). I 
 The quaint Latin inscription which runs the length of the 1 
 beam supporting the organ-loft refers to the reconstruction j 
 of the entrance ( Porta coeli — door of Heaven) in 1842. 
 
 The Basilica Lateranenses of Nuestra Senora del | 
 Roble (Our Lady of the Oak) faces the Plaza de Zuazua I 
 (PL D, 3), in the N. part of the city (tram-earmarked Cuarteles | 
 or Juarez, 5 c.), and has for its patron saint (also the pro- 1 
 tec tress of the city) a much venerated image, the Virgen i 
 del Roble , which is said to date from the 16th cent, and j) 
 which derives its name from its having been found in an 
 oak log b}' an inquisitive Indian. The ch. dates from 1S55. f. 
 and owing to faulty construction its roof fell in on the night < 
 of Oct. 24, 1905. The image, a lightly carved piece of fragile 
 wood, was found buried beneath tons of rock, uninjured, I 
 and the Indians attribute its miraculous preservation to \ 
 the intervention of Providence. The interior of the ch., , 
 now repaired, contains nothing to interest the visitor. Each 
 
to San Luis Potosu MONTEREY 2. Route. 9 
 
 of the seats bears a highly polished oval metal name plate — 
 a practice not very common in Mexico. 
 
 The finest of the plazas is the P. Zaragoza (PL E, 4), in the 
 centre of the city, and round which clusters the commercial 
 life of the place. It is a rose-crowned, restful spot, and dates 
 from the time when the Empress Carlota conceived the idea 
 of converting the then stone-flagged, dreary plazas into 
 flower gardens. Music in the kiosko by military bands on 
 certain evenings and Sundays. 
 
 The Palacio Municipal (PL E, 4), which flanks it on the 
 W. and separates it from the contiguous Plaza de Hidalgo 
 (with an elongated bronze statue to this patriot, erected by 
 the municipality in 1893), is one of the old landmarks. It 
 was reconstructed, and the Arms of the City added, in 1853. 
 
 Other plazas are La Punsima (with an uninteresting ch. 
 of the same name), the highest point in the city (PI. C, 4), 
 and from which all levels are taken ; the Plaza Juarez (PI. D, 3), 
 Bolivar (PI. D, 4), General Zuazua (PI. D, 3), 5 de Mayo 
 (PL D, 3), Cuauhtemoc (PL C, 4), Colon (PL D, 4), Colegio Civil 
 (PL D, 3), Plaza de Armas (PLC, 2), P. de Oaxaca (PL E, 2), etc. 
 
 The Alameda Porfirio Diaz (PL C, 3), a wide garden 
 flanked by the Penitentiary (PL C, 3), is the most fashion- 
 able promenade. Not far from this (N.-W.) is the (comp. p. 
 xcvii) Bull Ring (PL C, 3). 
 
 The city contains a number of Protestant churches, the 
 Baptist; Methodist; Presbyterian, and whatnot: cards 
 giving hours of services and other information are generally 
 to be found hanging in the hotel lobbies. 
 
 El Obispado Viejo (Bishop’s old palace) on the crest of 
 Chepe Vera Hill (PL A, 4), in the S.-W. suburb (take Obis- 
 pado tram-car to foot of hill), was constructed by the order 
 of Bishop Verger in 1785, but was abandoned on his death in 
 1790. The fine garden which once adorned the crest of the 
 hill is now in ruins. The tawdry, ruinous little chapel is 
 interesting only because of its historic associations and for 
 the fine views: it should be visited if only for the sake of the 
 panorama of Monterey, the Saddle Mountain and the en- 
 virons obtainable there. With the sequestration of ch. pro- 
 perty the chapel was converted into a barrack; only the 
 care-taker (no fees) lives there now. The possession of the 
 hill was hotly contested by the Mexicans and the invading 
 American army in 1847. Its capture and the storming of the 
 city was one of the most tragic events in its history. 
 
 Excursions: To the Garcia Caves ( cavernas ) 21 M. distant 
 over the Mex. Nat. Rly. (1st cl. $1.10), whose station is some 
 2 M. from Garcia village. Vehicles can be had at the town for 
 the trip to the cuevas, 2 M. away. Horse, for the round trip, 
 $2.50; a country carriage that will seat 4 persons, $5. Some 
 kind of a guide is necessary; $2 to $5 according to the number 
 
10 Route 2. 
 
 MONTEREY 
 
 From Laredo 
 
 in the party. Bargaining necessary. Prices are apt to change 
 with the demand. The caves are sometimes referred to as 
 Caver nos de Pesqueria. 
 
 The road leads through maguey fields ( magueyales ) across 
 a fair valley (called the Potrero ) to the foothills. The en- 
 trance, reached by a zigzag path, is halfway up the side of 
 a tall cerro. The guide furnishes lights. We enter a vast 
 chamber called El Tedtro. because of a fanciful resemblance 
 of the stalactite formation to the balconies of a huge theatre. 
 By crossing a rock-strewn floor which arches above a lower 
 cave, and which rings to the footsteps, we reach the adjacent 
 room, with a maze of stalagmites resembling cyclopean 
 columns. The Sala de los Balcones (balconies) is of immense 
 height, grandiose and gloomy. We descend a narrow stair 
 formed by the rocks, wind through clusters of columns, thread 
 a dark and weird passageway and enter the Cavern of the 
 Clouds — Caverna de las nubes. The bright sunlight filters 
 through thin, semi-transparent sections of gypsum in the roof 
 of the cave, and, mingling with the interior gloom, produces 
 a hazy, cloud-like effect that is very curious. We now pass into 
 the Chamber of the Bells (Sala de las Campanas), where every 
 stalagmite and stalactite gives a clear, ringing sound when 
 struck, producing the effect of chapel bells. Through a hole 
 in the roof of the Sala de la Luz (Chamber of Light) beams 
 of sunlight fall athwart the floor and produce a beautiful 
 effect. 
 
 Further along is the Bishop’s Palace, a room containing 
 a pure-white, altar-like formation, a stalagmite resembling 
 a human figure, and many slender stalactites, like organ- 
 pipes. Beyond this is murcielago, or bat cavern, a dark, 
 stuffy, ill-smelling place alive with bats. We pass a stairway 
 called El Caracol (snail) ; the Sala del Lago, with a pool 
 of cool water; a dainty sala called the Girl’s Room where the 
 walls are a pure white tinged with pink ; and on to the Room I 
 of the Broken Heart, so called from a heart-shaped forma- 
 tion therein. Beyond is the edge of exploration. In the 
 darkness lie, perchance, many undiscovered passages and j 
 salas. No one knows the length or depth of the caves. 
 
 Topo Chico Hot Springs (7 kiloms. to the N.-W. fromj; 
 the main plaza, see tranvias, p. 5), the origin of an excellent \ 
 mineral water bottled under the name of Topo Chico, is a 
 popular bathing resort (baths 25 and 50 c.), and forms a 
 short and pleasant excursion. The springs and bath-house : 
 are immediately opposite the shaded plaza — 'the terminus 
 of the tram-line. The water bubbles violently hot from the I 
 earth at a temperature of about 104°-110° Fahrenheit. Tt is I 
 said to be efficacious in rheumatic ailments. Hard bv the j 
 springs is the Hotel Marble (constructed of a mottled marble ■ 
 found in the vicinity) ; $2 to $5 Am. PI. 
 
to San Luis Potosi . NUEVO LEON 
 
 8. Route. 11 
 
 The State of Nuevo Leon, one of the richest and most pro- 
 gressive of the Mexican Estados del Norte , with a pop. of 
 400,000 and an area of 62,998 sqr. kiloms., is bounded on the 
 North, W. and N.-W. by Coahuila, on the S. and S.-W. by 
 San Luis Potosi and on the N.-E., East and S.-E. by Ta- 
 maulipas, and occupies the eastern slope of the Great Central 
 Plateau, extending in a north-easterly direction. For political 
 reasons it is divided in 28 municip alidades, most of them named 
 in honor of military heroes. The capital, Monterey, is in the 
 Division del Centro. 
 
 The Climate varies with the altitude, but is, in general, 
 temperate and healthy. Extreme heat is sometimes felt in 
 the lowlands of the N. and E. sections. The Sierra Madre 
 Mountains traverse the state at a mean elevation of 5,600 ft. 
 and culminate in the Pico de Potosi , which is snow-covered 
 during a part of the short winter. Twelve rivers and 100 
 or more confluents, none of which are navigable, irrigate 
 the state. The largest, El Rio Salado (Salt River), produces 
 fine fish and pearl-bearing oysters (comp. p. 87). 
 
 Medicinal Springs abound; chief among them being 
 Topo Chico, referred to at p. 10. Less important springs are 
 San Ignacio (near Linares) ; Potrero Prieto (near Galeana) ; 
 La Boca (a few miles E. of Santiago Guayuco); and Huertas, 
 25 kiloms. to the S. of Montemorelos. 
 
 The Fauna and Flora are very extensive: the former 
 includes mountain-lions, tiger-leopards, wild-cats, wild-boars, 
 wolves and many minor animals (comp. p. Ixxvii). Splendid 
 birds and pheasants haunt the wooded regions, and ducks 
 and other aquatic fowl winter and breed in the marshes. 
 Bream, cat-fish, eels, and shrimps abound in some of the 
 rivers. Cattle- and fruit-raising are growing industries. 
 
 3. From Monterey to Tampico. 
 
 322 M. One train daily in 14 hrs. Fare (see p. xxxi). Trains leave from 
 the Union National Station. The route is a continuation of that from 
 lorreon (see p. 36) referred to in the rly. guides as Division de Monterey. 
 
 Monterey, see p. 5. Owing to the absence of high moun- 
 jtains the line lacks the picturesque features characteristic 
 }f many Mex. railways. It traverses a rolling country (of 
 igreat agricultural possibilities), which slopes gently to the 
 3oast. The first town of importance is 59 M. Montemorelos , in 
 
 f fine fruit-growing district. The oranges produced here are 
 oted for their sweetness, and some 200 carloads are shipped 
 annually to the cities of the highland and to points in the 
 U.S. A. Further down the line the country is devoted to 
 stock-raising and agriculture. Considerable corn, sugar-cane, 
 pecan-nuts and cacti fibre are produced. 
 
 176 M. Victoria (1,473 ft.), capital of the State of Tamauli- 
 
12 Rte. J. BROWNSVILLE-MATAMOROS From Laredo 
 
 pas, with a population of about 10,000, lies in a region where 
 frosts are practically unknown. 322 M. Tampico, see p. 48. 
 
 From Matamoros and Brownsville to Monterey. 
 
 ( Tampico , Mexico City, etc.) 
 
 To Monterey, 331 K. in about 12 hrs. Frequent trains; good service. For 
 fares, see p. xxxi. The Railway (Matamoros Division of the National Rlys. 
 of Mexico) connects at the border ( Rio Grande, 22 M. from its mouth, at the 
 Gulf) with trains on the Gulf Coast Lines (via Corpus Christi, Houston, 
 Galveston, Beaumont, etc.) to New Orleans (thence to all points in the 
 east of the U. S. A.) — Shortest route between New York, Boston, Wash- 
 ington, etc. and Monterey, Tampico, Mexico City. Through Pullmans 
 and Club Cafe Cars between Houston and Mexican points, with connecting 
 sleeping-car service from New Orleans (and the East) to the Mex. border. 
 
 The Gulf Coast Lines Passenger Station (and the business section of 
 Brownsville — hotels Miller, Travelers; rooms SI to S3 a day, Amer. 
 money; several good restaurants close bv) is about 1 block from the River 
 (spanned by a fine steel bridge, cost half-million dollars). Representatives 
 board incoming trains and help passengers (free) through the custom-house 
 (lenient; formalities similar to those at Laredo, p. 1), to purchase tickets, 
 make connections, etc. A cheap and efficient auto service operates (across 
 the bridge) between the two cities. A Ferry-boat service also operates to 
 the Mexican side and connects there with a tramline (2 M. to Matamoros 
 centre). 
 
 Brownsville fpop. 23,000), one of the most attractive of the Texas cities, 
 is the metropolis for the fine (and immensely rich and productive) Lower 
 RlO Grande Valley, noted for delicious fruits (oranges, grapefruit, lemons) 
 and vegetables (about 1,500 carloads shipped each year), and for its equable 
 climate. 
 
 From Matamoros the Railway traverses a picturesque coun- 
 try similar to that between Laredo and Monterey. 
 
 Monterey, see p. 5. The line winds across a fine agricultural 
 country. The towns call for no special mention. 234 M. j 
 Saltillo, see below. For a continuation of the journey from 
 Laredo to San Luis Potosi and Mexico City, see p. 15. 
 
 4. Saltillo. 
 
 Arrival. The hotels cluster near the Plaza de la Independencia , within ; 
 easy walking distance of the station. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). Gran Hotel, Calle Iturbide; Hotel America , ; 
 Calles Aldama v Acuna: Hotel Hidalgo, Calle Padre Flores; Hotel Uni - ) 
 versed, Calles Hidalgo y Galeana. Rooms from S2 a day and up. Meals a 
 la carta. Arrangements can be made for room and board, on the American j 
 Plan. The Hotel Tomasichi, in the Calle Victoria, is somewhat cheaper. 
 
 Taxis and Cabs meet trains. Rates $2.50 an hr.; $1.50 for a half hour or 
 less. 
 
 Banks. Banco de Coahuila; Purcel y Co. Suers. 
 
 Moving Pictures in the Teatro Obrcro, and the Salon Apolo. (Circuito Ij 
 Olimpia films). 
 
 Post- and Telegraph-Office in the Calle Victoria. 
 
 Saltillo (Little Falls), capital of the State of Coahuila j{ 
 (5,000 ft.), with a pop. of 40,000, on the slope of a table-land) j 
 called Ojo de Agua, is the chief commercial and industrial city: * 
 in the state and the favorite health resort of the inhabitants of j j 
 near-by towns. It came into history in July, 1575, when it wasi 
 founded by Spanish adventurers under Captain Franciscoli 
 Urdihola, who penetrated the region from the adjacent State j 
 of Durango. A tribe of nomad savages occupied the site of the 
 
to San Luis Potosi . 
 
 SALTILLO 
 
 4. Route . 13 
 
 present town, whose fine situation aroused the cupidity of the 
 invaders, who fought several fierce battles for its possession. 
 The Indians were finally driven off, but the Spanish forces were 
 constantly threatened with destruction until the Viceroy at 
 Mexico City sent a number of Tlascalan families to settle in the 
 region and ensure its safety. 
 
 & The place is known legally as Leona Vicario , and was so 
 called because this famous heroine (a sort of Jeanne d'Arc) of 
 the War for Independence was born here. It was also the 
 birthplace of an unfortunate Mexican poet, Manuel de Acuna, 
 who charmed the people by his exquisite lyrics and who 
 committed suicide (comp. p. clx) when still young because 
 of a disappointment in love. General Ignacio Zaragoza (who 
 won the battle of Puebla May 5, 1862) was also born here, 
 and in his honor the State of Coahuila is known as E. de 
 Zaragoza. The city is celebrated for fine wool sarapes (shawls) 
 of splendid texture and quality, remarkable for fast colors 
 and artistic designs. The older ones (made a century or 
 more ago) are the most desirable and these usually find their 
 way to the best antique shops of Mexico City." The finer 
 specimens (very rare) cost a hundred pesos or more, and 
 they make very desirable souvenirs. The output of the 
 present factories (conducted on a very small scale) is not 
 equal to the older product, and those offered for sale in the 
 streets and at the rJy. stations are apt to be inferior in quality 
 and high in price. 
 
 During Oct. of each year a great fiesta or fair ( feria ) is 
 held here; booths are erected in the plazas , gambling games 
 are set in motion, many picturesque country Indians come 
 into town and interesting curios and home-made wares are 
 sometimes to be bought of them. During this time hotel 
 lodgings are apt to be scarce and they should be spoken for 
 in advance. Bull fights (comp. p. xcvii) are features of this 
 feria and the fighters are usually recruited from the local 
 aficionados. 
 
 The chief buildings are the Palacio de Gobierno (PI. C, 3), 
 the Cathedral (PI. D, 3), a fine Theatre (PI. C, 3), a State 
 College with a public library and a good local museum, 
 snd an attractive Casino (PI. C, 3), or club-house. The 
 barque Porfirio Diaz (PI. B, 3) and P. Zaragoza (PI. D. 3) 
 are the favorite promenades. 
 
 is connected with Torreon (p. 35) by the Ferrocarril Coa- 
 ‘i\ ^^? r f ICO G tram daily in 10 hrs., fare, see p. xxxi; see the Guia 
 'Wal), which passes through 160 K. Parras , and runs thence to 307 K. 
 ^rreon across a nondescript country. 
 
 trair? u KRR ? C , ARRIL Coahuila y Zacatecas runs a daily (except Sunday) 
 
 am Hence (through several unimportant towns) to 78 M. Concepcion. 
 
 The State of Coahuila, third largest of the Mexican States 
 and one of the most fertile, with a population of 297,000 and 
 
14 Route 4 . COAHUILA From Laredo \ 
 
 an area of 161,550 square kiloms., was once a stronghold 
 of the dreaded Apache Indians and by them was known as 
 Cuachichile . The Indian lords of the region first appeared I 
 in history in 1554 when the Viceroy Luts de Velasco sent 4 
 various expeditions under the captains Francisco de Ibarra, I 
 Juan de Tolsa , and Alonso Pacheco against them. The savage / 
 and nomad tribes had never bowed beneath any yoke and! 
 it was not until 1575 that Francisco de Urdifiola succeeded 
 in establishing a fort at Saltillo: the region was thereafter 
 called Nueva Extremadura, after the Spanish province of 
 that name. In due course various towns were founded and} 
 the district was definitely added to the Spanish Crown posses- 
 sions. Until 1788 Saltillo and Parras formed a part of the 
 contiguous State of Durango (see p. 102), then ca led Aueva 
 Vizcaya. In due course Coahuila secured its independence 
 and the capital was removed from Villa Monclov a to the 
 Antigua Villa de Saltillo, which town attained to the rank 
 of ciudad, under the name of Leona Vicario, Nov. 5, 182/ 
 By the terms of the Constitution of 1824 the present Ameri- 
 can State of Texas and Coahuila were formed into a single 
 state under the latter name. In the war between Hex. anc 
 the United States (1848) Coahuila lost a large section of its 
 territorv, and on Feb. 5, 1857, the remainder was fused witt 
 the adjoining State of Nuevo Leon. In 1864 the Congreso dele 
 Union declared Coahuila a Free and Sovereign State of tin 
 
 Mexican Republic. 
 
 The boundaries of the state are: on the N. the U. S. A. 
 from which it is separated by the Rio Grande; on the E. th 
 State of Nuevo Leon; on the S. San Luis Potosi and Zacateca^ 
 on the S.-W. and W. Durango, and on the N.-W. and W . th 
 State of Chihuahua. Like most of the Mexican possession 
 its resources are practically unlimited. . . „ 
 
 The known Fauna includes 40 species of mammals, 
 birds, 16 reptiles, 5 batrachians, 4 fishes, and almost number 
 
 less insects. . . r ... r 
 
 The Flora comprises over 60 varieties of trees mdigenou 
 to the cold and temperate regions, and 50 belonging to tW 
 tierra caliente. There are upward of 40 varieties of fine fruits 
 chief among them the pomegranate, chayote, lime, lemorj 
 quince, mulberry, orange, pear, apple, peach, olive, India 1 
 fig and a wide range of melons. Grape 1 culture is attainm 
 great importance and it is claimed that the white and P u . r P‘; 
 grapes of the Parras region, which are manufactured mt 
 wine, raisins, and alcohol, are sweeter and more delicioi 
 than those of California and are the equal, if not the superio 
 of the Malaga and Granada varieties. There are a great man 
 plants: 15 textile, 13 tanning, 10 used in dyeing, 13 lorag 
 
 1 The U*a (Viti* Vinifern) was introduced from Spain. Wild grap 
 ( parras ) grow in many parts of the Republic. 
 
to San Luis Potosi. 
 
 COAHUILA 
 
 1. Route. 15 
 
 17 poisonous, and 70 medicinal plants, beside 10 oleaginous 
 seeds, 12 gums and resins and over 100 varieties of orna- 
 mental plants and flowers. The state produces large quan- 
 tities of the greasewood plant known locally as guayute, which 
 is used in the manufacture of rubber. Though of recent 
 introduction this industry promises to be a source of con- 
 siderable wealth. 
 
 Cattle-raising is carried on, on a large scale. The common 
 products of the vast haciendas are cotton, corn, wheat, beans, 
 sugar-cane and about 30 species of leguminous plants. 
 
 Mining is a growing industry; the principal minerals found 
 being gold, silver, lead, copper, iron, and coal. The Sierra 
 Mojada, Sierra del Carmen and the Santa Rosa regions are 
 very highly mineralized. The numerous branches of the 
 Sierra Madre , in the southern and central districts, while 
 being rich in minerals also form the beautiful valleys of Parras , 
 Sohaco , Catarina , San Isidro , San Marcos , Alamo , Santa 
 Rosa, and H undido. In the S.-E. lies the fine agricultural 
 region known as the Laguna Country, said to contain the 
 most fertile soil in the Republic. 
 
 The Climate in certain districts is delightful: it is hot in 
 the Rio Grande and Monclova regions, temperate in Viesca, 
 Parras, and Saltillo, and cold in the mountains. In the 
 lowlands along the Rio Grande the summer is hot and dry but 
 with cool nights. Saltillo is the sanitarium for many of the 
 inhabitants of the surrounding towns, and is fast becoming 
 a popular resort. Abundant rainfalls characterize the dis- 
 tricts of Saltillo and Viesca, while in Parras and Monclova 
 they are insufficient. 
 
 The most important towns in the state are Torreon (de- 
 I scribed at p. 35), Parras, 126 kiloms. from the latter place, 
 on the International Rly.; Ciudad Porjirio Diaz (formerly 
 Piedras Negras) at the frontier, and Monclova (on the Inter - 
 ■ national Rly.), 238 kiloms. S.-W. of C. P. Diaz . 
 
 Saltillo, seep. 12. The grade slopes steadily upward and the 
 line winds in and out between the hills. 241 M. Buena Vista, 
 the scene of a sanguinary and decisive battle between the 
 American soldiers under General Taylor, and the Mexicans 
 under General Antonio Lojpez de Santa Anna, in 1847. 
 
 The American troops engaged numbered 4,691 ; the Mexicans 23,000. 
 The former lost 264 killed and 450 wounded; the Mexicans lost 2,500 
 killed and wounded. As usual the bombastic Santa Anna was unpre- 
 pared, and the appalling sacrifice of brave and willing men was but 
 another proof of his inefficiency. The victory virtually ended the Amer- 
 ican operations in Northern Mexico and exercised great influence on the 
 final issue of the American invasion of the Republic. 
 
 Hence to 258 M. Carneros the grade is steepish and we soon 
 reach a height of 7,300 ft., which is almost the level of Mexico 
 City. Presently the line seeks lower levels and we pass from 
 
16 Route 1. 
 
 REAL DE CATORCE 
 
 From Laredo 
 
 the State of Coahuila into the rich mineral State of San Luis 
 Fotosi (p. 20). We pass through a number of unimportant 
 settlements (276 M. Gomez Farias; 302 M. La Ventura ; 324 j 
 M. El Salado) to 354 M. Vanegas. Rly. restaurant; meals 
 SI. Junction of the branch line to Matehuala (consult Guia j 
 O final) ; trains leave from same station. 
 
 368 M. Catorce, point of departure for the mining town | 
 of the same name in the adjacent hills. The station is about | 
 1 M. from the foothills, where the trail begins. 
 
 Real de Catorce. about 14 kiloms. from the railway station, is poised on j 
 the slope of a precipitous mountain 9.043 feet above sea-level, in the \ 
 centre of one of the richest silver-producing regions of the world. It has a 1 
 population which varies from about 6,000 when the mines are closed to I 
 40,000 or more when they are being worked. Travellers to Catorce can t 
 usually obtain a horse or a mule from the railway station agent, or some [ 
 friend of his. The journey can be facilitated by having the train conduc- 
 tor telegraph ahead to the agent asking for a horse and a muleteer for 
 the trip. The mozo who accompanies one to bring the animals back usu- I 
 ally acts as guide. A horse for the trip can be had for $1.50 or $2 ac- 
 cording to the demand. Time about 3 hrs. A walker with good lungs and j 
 sinew v legs can make the trip in about the same time, albeit the “going " [ 
 i.' rather - tiff, and the steep trail is trying to one unaccustomed to cross- 
 country tramping. The foothills are visible from the station, and the 
 trail begins its sharp ascent directly from the edge of the plain. 
 
 No wheeled vehicle was ever seen in the narrow, precipitous streets of 
 the town, and good hotels are just as scarce. The only 7 neson (comp. | 
 p. li) is that of Senor Rafael Salcido ; rooms $1. In the absence of lodg- 
 ings at this place one must apply to the manager of one of the mining com- 
 panies, or to some friend. Food must be sought at one of the fondas in 
 the town. 
 
 A Campania de Traninas operates tram-cars (fare 10 c.) between the | 
 lower edge of Catorce to the Santa Anna mine, passing the Mina Dolores 1 
 Trumueta. The region roundabout is fairly bursting with mineral wealth, 
 arid there are many mines. Catorce (fourteen) derives its name from 14 
 infamous outlaws who once infested the region. 
 
 Between the stations of 374 M. Wadley and 383 M. 3/a- 
 roma is a stone shaft which marks the imaginary Tropic of 
 ('oncer. The country is one of cacti and broad views. The rails 
 traverse a wide plateau, crossed at intervals by stone fences | 
 miles in length and which sometimes lead over and disappear- 
 beyond the summits of the adjacent hills. Many tall Spanish- 
 bayonets. 400 M. Laguna Seca. 410 M . Los Char cos. Point 
 of departure for the branch line ( F . C. Central de Potosi) to 
 the town of 10 K. Charcas. We continue to traverse a level 
 plateau. 421 M. Venado. 432 M. Modezuma. 
 
 The vistas across the wide, cacti-sprinkled desert to the distant brown I 
 and blue hills, flecked with cloud shadows, are never without interest.! 
 The very baldness of the land is attractive and suggests a sort of austere! 
 majesty. The ability of the brown men w’ho inhabit it to draw susten-| 
 ance from its meagre store of plant life is in itself a striking lesson in hu-| 
 man adaptability to environment. If one finds one’s self pitying those! 
 forced by kismet or economic conditions to dwell in these silent, jejune! 
 places of the earth, one may like to remember that the purity of the desert! 
 air is unquestioned, and that herein lies Nature’s compensation to its fj 
 children; for of the 700 or more centenarians discovered by the census^ 
 takers of 1900 the greater number lived in just such places and found ij 
 their lives prolonged thereby. The most casual observer of Mexican life j{ 
 
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to San Luis Potosi. SAN LUIS POTOSI 
 
 5. Route. 17 
 
 will have noted that the country native is, as a rule, vastly superior phys- 
 ically to his city brother. The open-air life, the oftentimes meagre diet 
 and the absence of doubtful luxuries and of crowding, makes the hacen- 
 dado or plainsman of the highlands strong, wiry and enduring. At certain 
 of the w r ayside places one sees grizzled men of 70 or SO years on horseback 
 and sitting their animals with the confidence and dashing poise of young- 
 sters, The desert siroccos may parch them and dry their skin , but they 
 do not appear to sap their amazing vitality. The desert dust is usually 
 undefiled, and is as pure as non-microbic, ozone-laden dust can be. 
 
 450 M. Bocas , in a tree-dotted valley with a diminutive 
 town and a quaint old church with twin towers and a poly- 
 chrome tile-covered dome. The valley widens ; the hills which 
 bound it on the E. and W. are within the San Luis Potosi 
 radius and are noted for their great mineral wealth. The 
 tall chimney of an occasional smelter is seen at the base of 
 the foothills. The mesquite-covered plains need only water 
 and care to become highly productive. We pass a number 
 of primitive adobe brick-yards and soon come to the large 
 stone station of 476 M. San Luis Potosi. (See below.) 
 
 From San Luis Potosi to Queretaro and Mexico City , see 
 Rte. 28, p. 104. 
 
 5. San Luis Potosi. 
 
 The Railway Station ( estacion del f err ocarril) is at theW. edge of the city, 
 within 5 min. walk of the plaza and the commercial centre. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). Hotel Progreso; Hotel Comercio; Hotel Europa; 
 Hotel Saenz. All near the plaza. Rates from $2 up, per day, for rooms 
 only. Arrangements can be made for board and room on the American Plan, 
 at an inclusive charge. 
 
 AutOS and Cabs meet trains. Stands in various parts of the city. Fares 
 S2.50 an hour; $1.50 for £ hour or less. More on dias de fiesta and Sundays. 
 Also for out-of-town trips. 
 
 Tramways ( tranvias ) run from the Rly. Station to various points in the 
 city. Good, cheap service. 
 
 Banks. Sehores Deutz Hermanos are correspondents for the (American) 
 Mexico City Banking Corporation, S. A. — The Banco Nacional de Mex- 
 ico. For others see the directory. 
 
 Post- and Telegraph-Offices in the Calle Morelos. 
 
 Shops. The best are in the vicinity of the Plaza Hidalgo and on the nar- 
 row arcade-like Calle Hidalgo, which runs in a northerly direction to the 
 Mercado. Bargaining is necessary in most of them. There is a dearth of 
 American shops. American specialties of all kinds can be bought to better 
 advantage in Mexico City. Likewise curios and antiques. 
 
 Sights in the city are few. San Luis is slower than Monterey, Tampico, 
 and others of the Mexican cities, and the people seem to lack initiative. 
 The prosperity of the city operates in cycles and is more or less dependent 
 upon the output of the mines in the district. The Churches (see pagesl8-19) 
 are interesting, but they do not compare with those of Mexico City, Guad- 
 alajara, and other places. 
 
 The Opals sometimes offered for sale at the Rly. Station and on the 
 streets are not always of the finest grade. The vendors will usually take 
 much less than they ask. 
 
 San Luis Potosi (6,290 ft.), one of the chief commercial 
 cities of the Republic, a large mining centre, with a popula- 
 tion of 62,000 ; the seat of a bishop, a city of many tile- 
 domed churches, and the metropolis of a number of very rich 
 silver-mines, is the capital of the state of the same name, 327 
 miles north of Mexico City. 
 
 History. At the time of the conquest of the Valley of 
 
18 Route 5 . 
 
 SAN LUIS POTOSI 
 
 Cathedral . 
 
 Mexico the district now known as San Luis Potosi was un- 
 known to — or at least unconquered by — the Aztecs. ! 
 When Cort£s had subdued Tenochtitlan he sent several expe- 
 ditions northward in quest of territory to subdue. Zacatecas 1 
 and its fabulously rich mines were discovered and it became j 
 necessary to maintain communications therewith. A strong ; 
 expedition was therefore sent out under Captain Martin | 
 Enriquez, who succeeded in reducing Celaya (p. 127) and ; 
 Queretaro (p. 109) and in establishing an outpost at San j 
 Luis de la Paz, Guanajuato. For many years the Indian U 
 owners of the land maintained a stout resistance against 1 
 the invaders, but about 1589 General Rodrigo del Rio nego- I 
 tinted a peace treaty w T ith them. The Franciscan mission- ^ 
 aries immediately invaded the new country, and a number j 
 of missions were founded, chief among them that of San | 
 Luis. In 1590 some mines of astonishing richness w^ere dis- 1 
 covered in the San Pedro Hills, and because the enormous 1 
 production of gold recalled the fabulously productive mines H 
 of Potosi, in Bolivia, the new town was named San Luis I 
 Potosi. Its original site was in the San Pedro Hills, 12 miles 1 
 from its present location, whence it was moved because n 
 of a lack of potable water. 
 
 Hordes of gold-seeking Spaniards promptly invaded the I 
 territory and the town grew rapidly. The first building I 
 occupied the site of the present Jesuit Church of La Com- I 
 pania de Jesus , in the barrio nuevo, or new suburb. The | 
 mines were worked in such an eager, primitive fashion that I 
 some of them began to cave in, and in 1622 a mine that had I 
 produced 816,000,000 in gold ore became a ruin. For the 1 
 next half-century San Luis Potosi was an almost deserted I 
 camp. Other mines were located in due course, and in 1656 n 
 the place had regained so much of its old prestige that the j 
 Duke of Albuquerque conferred the title of ciudad upon it — ; 
 a title that was confirmed by Felipe IV in 1658. Many of J 
 the churches and public buildings date from about that time. I 
 
 The Cathedral, formerly la parroquia, on the E. side of |< 
 the Plaza Hidalgo (PI. C, 3), occupies the site of the first 1 
 church erected in the region in 1595. The primitive structure 1 
 (built by miners who had found wealth in the San Pedro |l 
 Hills) was destroyed at the end of the 17th cent., and from ji 
 its ruins the present structure arose. It was completed and \i 
 dedicated in 1737 and was the Parroquia until 1853, at which 
 time, and at the initiative of General Antonio Lopez de Santa 1 
 Anna, a bishopric was established with Don Pedro Barajas | 
 as the first bishop. The brown-stone tower is a three-storied j: 
 mass of intricate carving in the Baroque style; the summit li 
 is painted in imitation of tile-work. The awkward lantern- ji 
 like campanario , which flanks the tower and rises above U 
 the main entrance, detracts somewhat from the symmetry n 
 
SAN LUIS POTOSI 
 
 5. Route. 19 
 
 of the edifice. At the apex of the buttresses of the side wall 
 are chiselled figurines of santos. “A peculiar trait of the 
 ecclesiastical architecture of the city is the eccentric habit 
 of placing the ribs of the dome, as a rule, in the centre of the 
 surface divisions, instead of at the angles.” The Latin in- 
 scription in the stone medallion above the W. entrance refers to 
 the erection of the See by Pope Pius IX. The marble statues 
 in the niches of the fagade are modern, as is also the clock. 
 
 The sumptuous interior, with a single nave and two aisles, 
 is decorated in a medley of styles, Byzantine, Doric, Gothic, 
 and whatnot. According to the tile inset in the floor the 
 reconstruction of the interior was completed March 12, 
 1896. The silver-plated candelabra on the presbiterio , before 
 the high altar, are relics of a time when the ch. possessed 
 many fine pieces of massive silver, taken from the San Pedro 
 mines. The silleria is unusually plain for a Mexican cathedral, 
 and is in sharp contrast to the somewhat richly carved 
 organ case of mellow-toned wood. The tomb in the W. wall 
 of the S. aisle is that of Bishop Ignacio Montes de Oca y 
 Obregon. The bishop’s palace joins the Cathedral on the N. 
 
 From an architectural view-point the most interesting of 
 the city churches is that of Nuestra Senora del Carmen 
 (1 sqr. E. of the Cathedral), in the Plaza de Morelos (PI. C, 3). 
 The fagade is one of the most elaborate remaining specimens 
 of the Baroque (comp. p. cxxxi) in the Repub. The smaller 
 portal, which faces E., is not so richly carved as that of the 
 W. entrance. The domes, covered with blue, green, yellow 
 and white tiles in the Mudejar style (p. cxxxiv) and sur- 
 mounted by lanterns, are landmarks. The intricately carved 
 tower on the N. side of the W. fagade is surmounted by a 
 blue and yellow pyramid. Many pigeons have made their 
 nests in the interstices of the carvings of the fagade. The 
 noisy pumps in the plaza (which supply some of the city 
 water) are a detriment to the repose which would otherwise 
 be a marked feature of the elaborate interior — a splendid 
 relic of former days. The most striking features of this 
 cruciform interior, with clipped transepts, are the huge 
 polychrome reredos (after the style of Churriguera , p. cxxxn) 
 attributed to the celebrated Celaya architect Eduardo de 
 Tresguerras (see p. cliii). Perhaps the finest of these won- 
 derfully intricate productions is that of the Altar de Animas 
 Perpetuas, in the N. transept. The south-bound traveller will 
 see many beautiful examples of this work in the Cathedral 
 and certain of the other churches at Mexico City. The paint- 
 ings on the walls are of no particular merit. The elaborately 
 carved pulpito is worth looking at. Adjacent to the ch. on 
 the S. is the new 
 
 Teatro de la Paz (PL C, 3), completed in 1889. On the 
 W. side of the Jar din Guerrero is the large 
 
20 Routed. STATE OF SAN LUIS POTOSI 
 
 Church of San Francisco, with a striking blue-and-white 
 tiled dome in the Mudcjar style. The ch. dates from about 
 1650; a can ed stone tablet let into the tower wall advises 
 that it was begun in 1705 and completed in 1707, while a 
 similar tablet lower down says it was renovated in 1799. 
 The interior, in the shape of a Latin cross, contains a number 
 of old paintings, chief among them a good Descent from 
 the Cross, by Antonio Torres. There are several unsigned 
 pictures in the organ loft. The quaint swinging ship of 
 bevelled glass, that hangs in the crucero , is a curious adorn- 
 ment for a church. 
 
 The squat Church of the Tercer Orden de San Fran- 
 cisco (PI. 13, 4), at the S. side of this plaza , is uninteresting. 
 
 The Iglesia de San Jose, facing the S. side of the Ala- 
 meda, near the rly. station (PI. D, 3), is an old foundation 
 newly renovated. The somewhat attractive interior contains 
 a number of highly colored modern pictures by local painters. 
 
 The old San Agustin Church (PI. C, 4), with an unusually 
 tall and elaborately carved tower, stands at the W. end of a 
 deep atrium at the S.-VV. terminus of the Calle de San Agustin. 
 The one-time fine old interior has been redecorated and has 
 thus lost its interest for travellers. The city contains a num- 
 ber of minor churches, none of which will repay a visit. 
 
 The Plaza de Hidalgo, in the centre of the city, contains 
 some fine t rees — the resort of many song-birds — and a music 
 kiosk, where a good military band may be heard on Sundays 
 and certain evenings of the week. The large building which 
 flanks this plaza on the S. is the Palacio del Estado. 
 
 The Alameda (PI. D, 3), between the railway station and 
 the centre of the city, contains several duck-ponds, some 
 broad converging walks, and a monument to the patriot 
 Mi'jucl Hidalgo. It is the favorite resort of the Potosinos. 
 
 The opals (p. xci) offered for sale on the streets and at 
 the railway station may or may not be of the finest quality. 
 Prudence and bargaining are necessary. 
 
 The Ferrocarril Potosi y Rio Verde runs from the city 
 toward the S.-E. to 38 M. Aguaeatcd. 
 
 The State of San Luis Potosi, with a population of 
 600, (XX) and an area of 65,5S6 sqr. kiloms., is bounded on the 
 N . by Coahuila , on the E. by Nuevo Leon , Tamaulipas and 
 1 era Cruz , on the S.-E. by Jalisco , on the S. by Hidalgo , Quere - 
 taro , and Guanajuato, and on the W. by Zacatecas. The Tropic 
 of Cancer crosses the state somewhat to the S. of the cele- 
 brated Catorce region (p. 16). The tall Sierra Madre Moun- 
 tains are ever prominent features in the landscape and their 
 brown sides are pierced by many rich mines. The high table- 
 land which forms a part of the western and central portions 
 of the state constitutes a segment in the backbone of the 
 Republic. The district of Catorce is noted for its almost 
 
STATE OF SAN LUIS POTOSf 5. Route. 2i 
 
 exhaustless riches. Many of the mines of the state have been 
 worked for centuries, still they show no apparent diminution 
 in the ore-bearing rock. Gold, silver, lead, and copper ores 
 are found in many sections; and cinnabar in the Santa Maria 
 del Rio and the Salinas regions. Of the valuable salt deposits, 
 those of El Pefion Blanco are perhaps the richest, with from 
 70 to 80% of chloride of sodium. Stock-raising is on the 
 increase and it produces considerable revenue. 
 
 The Climate is cold in the mountainous districts and 
 temperate on the great plateau. Fine forests of valuable 
 woods clothe certain of the mountain slopes. Where irriga- 
 tion is practised the plains are very productive. 
 
II. NORTH-CENTRAL MEXICO, 
 
 6. From Ciudad Juarez (El Paso) via Chihuahua, Tor- 
 
 reon, and Zacatecas to Aguascalientes (Leon, Silao, 
 Irapuato, Celaya, Queretaro, and Mexico City) . 22 
 
 El Paso, 22. — Ciudad Juarez, 23. 
 
 7. Chihuahua 25 
 
 History and Character of the City, 26. — Chihuahua State, 
 
 29. — Chihuahua Dogs, 31. — Apache Indians, 31. — El 
 Real de Santa Eulalia . 32. — Santa Rosalia Hot-Springs, 
 
 32. — Sierra Mojada Mining Region, 34. — From Cone- 
 jos to Descubridora, Mapimi, and La Zanja, 34. 
 
 8. Torreon 35 
 
 From Torreon to Monterey, thence to Tampico, 36. 
 
 9. Zacatecas 38 
 
 Guadalupe, 42. — Excursion to the Ruins of Chicomoztoc 
 (Los Edificios), 42. — State of Zacatecas, 44. — The 
 Mining Region of Tepezala, 45. 
 
 10. Aguascalientes 45 
 
 State of Aguascalientes, 47. 
 
 11. From Aguascalientes to Tampico via San Luis Potosi 48 
 
 Tampico, 48. Tarpon Fishing, 49. State of Tamaulipas, 50. 
 
 12. From Ciudad Juarez (El Paso) to Nuevas Casas 
 
 (irandes 51 
 
 Hunting Big Game in the Sierra Madres, 53. — The Casas 
 Granaes, 54. 
 
 13. From Presidio del Norte via Chihuahua to Topolo- 
 
 bampo 56 
 
 The Tarahumare Indians, 57. — The Pima Indians, 60. — 
 
 The Tepehuanes, 60. — The Tubar Tribe, 60. — The 
 Barranca de Cobre, 61. 
 
 14. From Chihuahua to Minaca 63 
 
 15. From Jimenez via Parral to Rosario . .... 63 
 
 16. Parral 64 
 
 Parral Mining District. 67. From Parral to Minas Nuevas, 67. 
 
El Paso. 
 
 NORTH-CENTRAL MEXICO 6. Route. 23 
 
 6. From Ciudad Juarez (El Paso ) via Chihuahua, 
 Torreon, and Zacatecas to Aguascalientes (Leon, 
 Silao , Irapuato , Celaya , Queretaro , cmcZ Mexico 
 City). El Paso Route. 
 
 From El Paso, Texas, Union Depot, to Mexico City (1221 Miles — 1971 
 Kildmetros) without change of cars, in about 48 hrs. For fares, see p. xxxi. 
 The Pullman Co. operates a good buffet service on the through trains and 
 there are rly. restaurants at proper intervals along the line. Americans will 
 wish to travel first class, as the 2d class (comp. p. xxi) cars will not prove 
 to their liking. For information relating to stop-over tickets, round-trips, 
 etc., consult the ticket agent at El Paso. To get the best out of one’s trip 
 the traveler is advised to secure a Rly. Folder, a copy of the Railway Guide 
 issued by the Ferrocamles A acionales de Mexico , or of the Guia Oficial. 
 
 El Paso (the pass), Texas, uses Mountain Time (see p. xlviii) which is the 
 same time used in Mexico. 
 
 Telegraph -Office, in the Union Depot, but messages for Mexican points 
 can be sent cheaper at the oficina of the Telegrafos Federates , across the 
 Rio Grande, in Ciudad Juarez. 
 
 The Fred Harvey Dining Room, in the El Paso Union Depot provides 
 good food at reasonable pi ices. Several Hotels lie within a few min. walk 
 of the Union Depot. Tramcars. Taxis, etc. 
 
 Hand- luggage can be checked in the Union Depot, at the Fred Harvey 
 Check Stand; where fruit, reading matter, candy, etc., can be purchased. 
 Money can also be exchanged. The exchange usually is about tw o Mexican 
 pesos for one American dollar. Take as little American silver into Mexico 
 as possible, as it is discounted there. 
 
 Custom-House Formalities. Mexican customs-officers ( inspectors de 
 aduana ) board the train at the El Paso Union Depot and examine hand- 
 luggage in the car seats w’hile the train moves across the international 
 bridge ( puente international ) which spans the Rio Grande del Norte (big 
 river of the North) at this point. Heavy baggage is inspected in the bag- 
 gage-room ( cuarto de equipaje ) in the Ciudad Juarez station, on the Mexi- 
 can side. The examination is prompt, courteous, and lenient. Luggage 
 is transferred into the inspection-room, then back to the train at the ex- 
 pense of the rly. company. Travellers will do well to be present in person 
 during the inspection of their trunks. Ample time is allowed. Tourists 
 with a knowledge of Spanish will find it advantageous to hold it in re- 
 serve while at frontier customs-houses, as visitors to the Republic are 
 apt to be accorded more liberal treatment than residents. Any “ adjust- 
 ments ” of luggage in the El Paso Union Depot are apt to be made in 
 view of some vigilant inspector. Fees are not expected by Mexican 
 customs-officers and they should not be proffered. A small gratuity (25 c. 
 Mex. is ample) to the mozo who shifts, unlocks, and re-locks trunks in 
 the examination-room is customary, and is always received gratefully. 
 
 Ciudad Juarez (Judrez city), a famous town long known as 
 Paso del Norte (pass of the North), the northern terminus of 
 the sometime Mexican Central Railway (the first railway ever 
 built from the temperate zone down into the tropics, see p. 37), 
 is 3,117 feet above the sea level (a mile lower than Mexico 
 City) and is linked to El Paso, Texas, by an international 
 bridge ( puente ) across which street cars come and go. There is 
 a customs examination at each end of the bridge. 
 
 To the traveller arriving from Mexico, Ciudad Judrez is 
 nondescript and of no interest. To one seeing Mexico for the 
 first time it appears quaint and picturesque. It is the antithe- 
 
24 Route 6. 
 
 CIUDAD JUAREZ 
 
 From El Paso 
 
 sis of El Paso, on the American side, yet each possesses com- 
 mendable qualities. It remains with the traveller to decide 
 which he prefers. 
 
 To Mexicans Ciudad Juarez recalls one of Mexico’s greatest 
 presidents. About £ of a mile to the left of the Rly. Station 
 (of the Mexican National Lines), a tall monument (erected in 
 1910) commemorates this reformer and liberator. The tablets 
 let into the base of the shaft typify scenes in the life of the 
 patriot. The 4 life-size marble figures are symbolic of law, 
 liberty, etc. A heroic figure in bronze, of Juarez, surmounts 
 the shaft. 
 
 The train begins its long run and climb to the Mexican 
 capital (nearly 1£ M. higher than El Paso) through a region 
 which was once a neutral zone ( zona libre), celebrated at one 
 time for its gangs of smugglers ( contrabandistas ) ; for skirm- 
 ishes between “ bad ” Mexicans and equally obnoxious Ameri- 
 cans, and for bloody Indian raids engineered by the pitiless 
 and dreaded Apache chief Geronimo. The plains ( llanos ) 
 swoon beneath waves of shifting heat; long-eared Jack-rab- 
 bits ( conejos ), coyotes (Aztec, coyotl). horned toads ( zapos ), 
 and many minor quadrupeds are features in the landscape. 
 
 11 M. Mesa. The mountains on the 1. contain gold. A long 
 line of faint blue hills marks the American side of the Rio 
 Grande , whose course is delimned by the green cottonwoods 
 which grow on its banks. 20 M. Tierra Blanca. 29 M. Sama- 
 layuca. 42 M. Los Medanos. On the 1. is a small group of 
 sand dunes which change their forms with the velocity and di- 
 rection of the wind. 
 
 4S M. Candelaria. The tall Mt. on the r. contains a fine 
 spring of cold water which flows out from an almost inac- 
 cessible ravine. The spot was long the chosen stronghold 
 of Gertinimo and his pestilent braves. They w^ere routed out of 
 here and chased to the State of Sonora by the American Gen- 
 eral (’rook, who finally captured them (1883). 59 M. Ran - 
 cher ia. 68 M. Lucero. 74 M. San Jose. 82 M. Ahumada. 89 
 II. Carrizal. 96 M. Ojocaliente. 104 M. Las Minas. 
 
 112 M. Montezuma. Rly. restaurant. Meals $2. The little j 
 garden adjoining the station shows what water will do for the j 
 so-called desert. Nature has endowed this region with an al- 
 most perfect climate, and irrigation would make it one of the 
 v orld's beaut v spots. Mountain lion and similar game can be 
 shot in the mountains to the W. 122 M. Chivatito. 134 M. El | 
 Sueco. 139 M. Gallego. 144 M. Loaeza. 152 M. Creel. 
 
 165 M. Layuna. The long, narrow lake visible on the r. is | 
 a hunter’s paradise during the so-called winter season. Thou* i 
 sands of ducks and geese (comp. p. lxxvii) flock hither from 
 the colder North and here they rest and multiply in prac- 
 tically unhunted security. 
 
 Hunters should bear in mind that although the winter days are warm 
 and balmy, the temperature drops with the sun; during the dark hours 
 
, „ t t «. ttq 0 * ijjj . Ktr? » i.|oy q 
 

 and Orient Railroad to' I» r o B 1 d 1 o 
 
to Aguascalientes. CHIHUAHUA 7. Route. 25 
 
 which precede the mid-winter dawn, the thermometer often registers 32° 
 Fahr. A camp equipment should always include several heavy blankets. 
 Ammunition should be brought from the U. S. A., as it is not always pro- 
 curable in Mexican towns. 
 
 The invading American army camped on the shore of this 
 lake in 1847, and the efflorescent soda incrusted on the margin 
 of the water was used by the soldiers as a substitute for salera- 
 tus. — 173 M. Agua Nueva. 182 M. Encinillas. 194 M. Sauz. 
 199 M. Terrazas. 211 M. Corral. 
 
 219 M. Cuilty. About 1 M. to the 1. of the station is the fine 
 country-house (quinta) of an ex-governor of Chihuahua State, 
 Senor Terrazas. The exterior, with its glistening spires and 
 Moorish aspect, gives but a faint idea of the richness of the 
 interior, on which vast sums were spent. Rich buffalo grass 
 clothes the surrounding plains and the region is productive. 
 Many bunches of cattle (ganado) graze on the prairies, across 
 which career droves of half-wild mustangs — the contumacious 
 descendants of the vast herds which once roamed this region 
 unchecked. The shifting waves of heat which hover above 
 the land create curious mirages. A track laborer, seen from a 
 distance, looks gigantic; a horse or a steer cutting the sky- 
 line takes on the proportions of an elephant. From this point 
 the grade slopes gently toward Chihuahua , which nestles at the 
 base of a crescent-shaped group of hills. A few miles to the N. 
 on the r. is Sacramento Hill , the scene of a brief but fierce 
 struggle between Mexican troops and the invading Americans 
 in March, 1847. 
 
 225 M. Chihuahua Shops (talleres). Rly. restaurant; meals 
 81. We cross the Chuviscar River on a high bridge. A number of 
 factories are visible on the right, and beyond them stretches 
 the city of 226 M. Chihuahua, see below. For a continuation 
 of the journey see page 32. 
 
 7. Chihuahua. 
 
 Arrival. The Railway Station ( estacion del ferrocarril ) is on the east- 
 ern edge of the city (PI. B, 2) about 1 M. from the Plaza Mayor (PI. B, 3) 
 and the chief hotels. (Other railway stations are those of the Chihuahua 
 and Pacific Railway, and the Kansas City, Mexico & Orient Rly. 
 (PI. C, 4), described at p. 56.) The Ferrocarril Mineral de Chihuahua 
 connects the city with the mining town of Santa Eulalia, mentioned at 
 p. 32. Cabs (see below) and tram-cars meet all incoming trains: cab to 
 the hotel 25 c. ; by tram-car 10 c. Trunks by cargador (p. lii) or express 
 company 50 c. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). Palace Hotel (H. Palacio), facing the plaza 
 (PI. B, 3); $3.50 to $6 Am. PI. (Omnibus, free to guests, meets trains, 
 trunks 50 c., hand-bags 25 c.) : Amer. management and cooking. — Hotel 
 Robinson, near the plaza; $3.50 to $6 Am. PI. Eng. & Sp. spoken; Amer. 
 management and cooking. Omnibus free. — Hotel Ahumada, 2 sqrs. N’. 
 of the plaza ; $3 to $6 Am. PI. Rooms only, $1.50 to $3; suites with 
 bath $3 to $5; Eng. and Sp. spoken. — Hotel Colon, Calle de la Libertad 
 (PI. B, 3) S05. Rooms only, $1 to $3; Am. PI. $2 to $4. There are a num- 
 ber of minor hotels. 
 
 Cabs. Cab-stands at the E. and W. corners of the Cathedral (PI. B, 3) 
 
26 Route 7. 
 
 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 Climate. 
 
 and the Plaza dr la Constitucion (Plaza Mayor); E. and W. sides of the 
 Plaza Merino ; E. and S. sides of the Jardin 25 de Marzo ; at the Plaza de 
 Hidalqo and the Palacio de Gobierno. A small tin flag carried upright 
 (lowered when the cab is engaged) denotes that the vehicle is for hire. 
 Blue ( azul ) denotes 1st cl., red ( rojo ) 2d cl., and yellow Jamarillo) 
 
 3d cl. The latter are not suitable for foreigners and are usually preferred I 
 by the lower classes. Fares: blue flag, SI .25 the hour, 63 c. % hr., 25 c. 
 
 5 hr.; one or two persons; for more than two 50 c. i hr. After 10 p. m. the 
 rates are SI. 50; 75, 25, and 50 c. respective^. — 2d cl., SI an hour; 50 c. 
 a 1 hr.; 25 c. for a \ hr., for one or tw T opers.: more than two, 50 c. Night 
 fares Si. 25, 63, 25, and 50 c. respectively. The local regulations are that 
 each cochero must show his tariff-book when called upon to do so. In the 
 event of a dispute, ask him to drive to the comisaria (local police station) , 
 where the matter will be satisfactorily adjusted. 
 
 American Newspapers, magazines, curios, kodak supplies, etc., Amer- j 
 ican Photo & Stationery Co., cor. Avenida Independencia and Calle 
 Aldama. 
 
 Banks. Banco Nacional — Banco de Chihuahua — Banco Comercial. 
 
 Chihuahua Foreign Club — Calle de Aldama. 
 
 Chihuahua (pronounced Che-wah-wah) , capital of the state 
 of the same name (p. 29), pop. 30,500, alt. 4,600 ft., the first 
 important Mexican city south of the frontier, at the base of a 
 group of hills fairly bursting ; with mineral wealth, derives its 
 name from the two Indian ( Tarahumare ) words signifying 
 “Place of the Workshop.” It is a busy, bi-lingual place — 
 a felicitous blend of Texas and Mexico — with a consider- 
 able American population. American money (2 pesos for SI 
 Am.) passes as readily as Mexican; English is almost as 
 much spoken as Spanish, and a number of American manu- 
 factories give an air of progress to the town. There are several 
 smelters, an iron foundry, a soap factory, two or three cotton- 
 seed mills, a brewery and many minor industries. The region 
 roundabout is celebrated for its enormous output of ores. 
 According to trustworthy authority, some of the older build- 
 ings in Chihuahua contain enough silver in their walls to 
 render their demolition and reduction a profitable under- 
 taking. The early Spanish method of extracting silver ores 
 was so crude that much rich mineral was thrown with the 
 dross after the reduction of the ores, and in the absence of 
 a better material, this slag, mixed with silver scoriae, was 
 used to construct many of the houses. 
 
 Chihuahua came into history coincidently with the Spanish occupa- 
 tion of northern Mexico. The Spanish explorers found the primitive 
 town inhabited by a tribe of Indians whose history and traditions were 
 unknown to them, but whose destiny was perhaps linked with the nu- 
 merous architectural ruins at Casas Grandes, described at p. 54. The 
 Castilians conquered the inhabitants and founded a Spanish town (1539, 
 bv Dieqo de Ibarra) and called it San Felipe el Real (Royal St. Philip). 
 The discovery of silver in 1718 brought the region into prominence, and 
 i’i 1824 the town was elevated to the category of a city. Its prosperity 
 dates from about 1825, when, after the struggle for Independence, the 
 country settled down to peaceful conditions. 
 
 The Climate of Chihuahua is excellent ; winter is the best 
 season for a visit, for then the days are like fine autumn days 
 in the U. S. A., with brilliant sunshine and cool, sleepful 
 
Hidalgo. 
 
 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 7. Route. 27 
 
 nights. The annual rains begin about the last week in June 
 and end in October. May, June, and July are the hottest 
 months, with the mercury ranging around 94° Fahr. 
 
 Chihuahua is a reliquary of contemporaneous history, 
 and the handsome monument to Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla 
 (the Washington of Mexico), in the Plaza or Jar din de Hidalgo 
 (PL B, 3), commemorates one of its greatest tragedies. This 
 monumento is Corinthian, 45 ft. high, made of marble from 
 Orizaba (p. 489) and cost 60,000 pesos. The bronze figure 
 (8 ft. high) of the Cura , and the smaller bronze statues of 
 his adherents, were cast in Brussels. The Spanish inscription 
 advises that “The Author of Mexican Independence was 
 sacrificed here July 30, 181 1 
 
 The tower in which Hidalgo was imprisoned is a part of 
 the modern Palacio de Gobierno or Federal (PI. B, 3) in the 
 Calle de la Libertad. The new building was erected (1908-09) 
 around the old tower, in the wall of which is the inscription: 
 “In this tower Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, Leader of the 
 Independent Cause, suffered his last imprisonment, from 
 April 23 to July 30, 1811. This tablet was placed here Dec. 
 1, 1888.” 
 
 At the foot of the altar of the Capilla de San Antonio (in 
 the Cathedral) is a black marble slab on which is inscribed : 
 “Don Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, Father of Mexican Independ- 
 ence, was shot in Chihuahua July 31, 1811, and his decapi- 
 tated body was laid here. The remains were exhumed for 
 transportation to. Mexico City in 1827.” 1 
 
 When the sorely beset priest and his patriotic adherents (comp, 
 p. cxcix) met with reverses (1810) in the South, they reluctantly turned 
 their faces northward to unite the torn and scattered forces at the 
 Hacienda del Pabellon. Here Hidalgo turned over the military command 
 to Ignacio de Allende, and it was decided to try to reach the United 
 States and endeavor to obtain financial support from that liberty- 
 loving country. The ragged army marched through the States of Aguas - 
 calientes and Zacatecas , and on reaching Saltillo (State of Coahuila) 
 it was met bv Lieutenant-Colonel Ignacio Elizondo, who had but recently 
 joined the insurgent ranks and who now requested a colonelcy under 
 Allende. For private reasons this was refused, and the embittered 
 Elizondo , promptly transferring his allegiance, sought an interview 
 with the Bishop of Monterey ( Primo Feliciano Maria), planned an 
 ambush, and captured Hidalgo and his adherent at Acatita de Bajan, 
 March 21. 1811. 
 
 By slow and painful marches they were conducted to Chihuahua, 
 where they arrived April 23. The Spaniards immediately held a council 
 of war and the prisoners were condemned to death. Pending execution 
 Hidalgo was imprisoned in the tower of the chapel of the old Hospital 
 Real, later used as the Oficina Federal de Ensaye. At seven o’clock of 
 the morning of July 30, he was conducted to a wall in the rear of the 
 Hospital Real, where, after dividing some candies among his executioners, 
 he was shot. He fell mortally wounded at the first discharge. The 
 soldiers then advanced and gave him the tiro de gracia, firing into his 
 body until life was extinct. A Spaniard then drew a long knife and 
 
 1 There are two errors in this inscription, for according to historians 
 Hidalgo was shot July 30 and his body was disinterred for removal to 
 the capital in 1823. 
 
28 Route 7. 
 
 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 Cathedral 
 
 hacked off his head, which was later taken to Guanajuato (see p. 140), jj 
 where for nearly ten years it hung on an iron hook at a corner of the 
 Alhdndiga “as a warning to criminals who sacrifice themselves for the I 
 independence of their country.” 
 
 The Cathedral, formerly the Parroquia (parochial ch.), 
 faces the Plaza de la Constitucidn (PI. B, 3), is dedicated to j 
 San Francisco (the patron saint of the town), and was begun j 
 in 1717 and completed in 1789, at a cost of 8600,000. It is 
 said that this sum represented the proceeds of a tax of one j 
 real (124 c.) levied upon each marco (4 lb.) of silver produced 
 from the 200 or more mines which at that time were operated 
 in the vicinity. Tradition avers that an inclined plane of 
 earth was raised against the building after the foundation 
 was laid, and as fast as the stones were rolled into position 
 the plane was increased, so that when the last stone was 
 placed on the tower the entire structure was buried and the I 
 runway extended beyond the edge of the plaza. 
 
 The edifice is of light-colored stone, with two graceful f 
 towers (146 ft. high) and a dome. Thirteen statues ( San j 
 Francisco de Asis and 12 apostles) adorn the profusely orna- \ 
 mented facade. In the recesses of the arches supporting the | 
 dome are bas-reliefs of the fathers of the ch. The Doric in- jj 
 terior (109 ft. long by 86 ft. wide) with its central nave and 
 aisles is attractive. The Altar Mayor is supported by 16 jj 
 Corinthian columns in groups of four, with a statue of San I 
 Francisco de Asis. Many fine silver ornaments were removed j 
 from the ch. after the promulgation of the Reform Laws | 
 (1859) and the sequestration of ch. property. The vest- I 
 ments in the sacristia are but simulacrums of the rich posses- 1 
 sions of former times. The pictures in the various chapels 1 
 are mediocre. Above the main entrance is the date 1738; 1 
 higher up, among the figurines, the date aho 1741 can be S 
 deciphered. The present clock covers a spot where once the J 
 coat-of-arms of the Spanish King were emblazoned. One of 1 
 the old Dells in the tower has a hole that was shot through it I 
 by the Republican forces who bombarded the town when a 
 it was in possession of the French troops of Maximilian in jj 
 1866. The interior was renovated in 1910. 
 
 The towers should be ascended (fee of 25 c. to the sands - || 
 tdn) if only for the sake of the view. The eye travels over | 
 many miles of upland and mountain country, across which J 
 plod caravans of mules and burros, raising clouds of dust and I 
 recalling the old days when many similar caravans brought I 
 in rich cargoes of bullion from the outlying mines. The 1 
 great aqueduct (erected in 1790), which stretches 34 M. across 
 the valley to the hills, is seen here to good advantage. 
 
 Minor churches (of no particular interest to the traveller) 
 are the Sanluario de Xuestra Sehora de Guadalupe, PI. A, 5 
 (at the head of the Alameda Cuauhtemoc, near the statue of 
 
7. Route. 29 
 
 State of Chihuahua. CHIHUAHUA 
 
 the great Jesuit San Ignacio de Loyola) ; the Jesuit Church of 
 La Compahia de Jesus, erected in 1717 by order of Don 
 Manuel de Santa Cruz; the Oratorio de San Felipe Neri, and 
 several minor churches and chapels. The busiest thorough- 
 fares, and the focus of the commercial life of the city, are 
 the Calles de la Libertad and La Victoria (PI. B, 3). Some 
 of the best shops face these streets. Chief among the pretty 
 plazas (music by military bands on certain days) are the 
 Jar din del Porvenir, Plaza de Merino , P argue Lerdo de Te- 
 jada (PI. B, 4), Alameda Cuauhtemoc (PL A, 4), and the Plaza 
 de la Constitucion (PL B, 3). The Indians one sees occasion- 
 ally are of a tribe known as the T arahumares (described 
 at p. 57), the one-time aboriginals of the region. 
 
 Chihuahua (an Estado del Norte), largest and richest of the 
 Mex. States, is bounded on the N. by the United States and 
 the Rio Grande, on the E. by Coahuila, on the S. by Du- 
 rango and on the W. by Durango and Sinaloa. Its area (227,468 
 sqr. kilom.) is about three times that of the State of New 
 York and is sparsely populated; the inhabitants (327,800, of 
 which some 8,000 are Indians, chiefly T arahumares) represent 
 less than two to the sqr. kilom. Four fifths of this vast terri- 
 tory is a beautiful upland plain, from 4,000 to 8,000 ft. above 
 sea -level. Lying between the mountain peaks and ranges are 
 other plains, Chilicote, Gigante and the Bolson (pocket) de Ma- 
 pimi, — an immense arid depression in the E. portion, crossed 
 by the National Rlys. of Mexico. Tall peaks of the Sierra 
 Madre Mts. — some of them rising 5,000 ft. above the sur- 
 rounding plains — dominate the W. section. Sand and alkali 
 are salient characteristics of the plains, for which reason but 
 about one half the state is under cultivation. Many thousands 
 of acres of hitherto uncultivated land are now being reclaimed 
 by artesian wells ( pozos artesianos) and artificial irrigation. 
 The river-banks, and the spots where lagoons form during 
 the rainy season, are generally very fertile. Cattle-raising 
 and mining are the chief occupations: vast herds of half- 
 wild cattle and bronchos are to be seen from the trains crossing 
 the state. Excellent timber is found in the mountains, where 
 about 150,000 trees are devoted to the production of resin 
 and turpentine. Vast timber areas are being opened up by 
 American capital, saw-mills are being established and many 
 colonists are settling in the W. regions of the state. A number 
 of railways, including the Ferrocarriles Nacionales de Mexico, 
 cross the state, and others are building. 
 
 “ A peculiarity of the desert region of Chihuahua is that nearly all 
 the vegetation is supplied with thorns or spines. First comes the almost 
 endless variety of cacti, ranging from the tiny plant not larger than 
 the finger to the giant pitahaya (p. lxxxi) pushing its tall stem to the 
 height o c 50 ft. Then follow the mesquite (Aztec mesquitl), the tornilla , 
 the fouquiera, the agaves and the yucas, all armed with spikes as if to 
 repel invaders from the north. Nor are these thorny and bizarre forms 
 
30 Route 7. 
 
 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 Climate. 
 
 confined to animal and vegetable life; they seem to extend to Nature, 
 even in the grandest aspects in which she here appears, as the mountain 
 ridges present the most singular summits, terminating in pyramidal 
 points, or resembling towers or minarets. Thus is everything to these 
 desert regions peculiar.” 
 
 Interesting among the plants is a small agave with ash-colored leaves i 
 covered with livid spots. It is known to the Indians as Cebadilla (sneeze- 
 wort) and the juice of its leaves, which contain a strong alkaloid, serves j 
 as an excellent antidote for the bite of any poisonous animal or reptile, i 
 Snakes flee the plant, and when irritated by the Indians into biting it, 
 quickly die in convulsions. 
 
 A great variety of insects and reptilia, including lizards, horned-toads, | 
 tarantulas, alacranes (scorpions), rattlesnakes, and the like, thrive on the j 
 sun-warmed sandy plains. Moles, rats, mice, rabbits and prairie-dogs 
 abound. A myriad wild-ducks and geese make the shallow lakes their 
 winter rendezvous, and during the winter, certain sections of the state | 
 become a hunter’s paradise (comp. p. lxxvii). Conspicuous among \Ve I 
 birds is the paysano , or chaparral cock, which attacks and devours 
 rattlesnakes with unbridled gusto . 
 
 The Climate is temperate and fine, particularly on the up- 
 lands, where paludal fevers are practically unknown. In mid- 
 winter snow sometimes falls to the depth of a foot or more, 
 in the mountains; the midsummer heat of the valleys is 
 apt to be extreme. The summers are long, with cool nights. 
 Frosty mornings characterize the spring and fall mornings. 
 The rainfall (during the estacion de aguas) is ample. The 
 rlimate in the Sierra Madre foothills is so fine that many of 
 the Tarahumare Indians (p. 57) live to be a hundred or more 
 years old. 
 
 The River System comprises the Rio Grande , which serves 
 as a section of the boundary line between Mexico and the 
 U. S. A.; the Conchos (shells), which empties into the Rio 
 Grande; the Carmen , which forms the Laguna de Patos (duck 
 lagoon) ; the Casas Grande , Chinipas and many minor streams. 
 
 Mineral Springs abound; prominent among them are 
 the Santa Rosalia (p. 33), San Diego , Cochinillas, Carmen , 
 Carrizal , Chuviscar . and the Tehuichic. Vast sheets of water 
 underlie the surface and artesian wells are increasing in 
 number. The fine cascade of Basaseachic , in the Sierra de 
 Tarahumare , is one of the most notable water-falls (970 ft. 
 high) in the Republic. 
 
 The Agricultural Products are barley, maize, wheat, 
 chick-peas, beans, lentils, peanuts, cotton, and whatnot. 
 The mountain slopes produce an excellent quality of white- 
 cedar, evergreen-oak and white-birch. In the Distrito de 
 Batopilas is a species of soap-tree, from which a good quality 
 of soap is made. The state produces many of the temperate 
 zone fruits, among them peaches, apricots, apples, pomegran- 
 ates, grapes, and a great variety of melons. In the warm 
 valleys between the mountain peaks are many aromatic 
 plants, and the honey made by the bees 1 which feed thereon 
 
 1 The bee ( abeja ) is found all over Mexico, busily producing honey 
 and wax. It is claimed that the Mex. bees do not store such quantities 
 
Apaches . CHIHUAHUA 7. Route . 31 
 
 is of an unusually fine quality and flavor. Large quantities 
 of hides are exported. 
 
 A peculiar product of the state are the Chihuahua Dogs 
 (. Perros Chihuahuefios) — vivacious little canines which 
 resemble somewhat the Chin Koro of Japan and the Sleeve 
 Dog of China. The pure-bred dogs are of a delicate fawn, or 
 fawn-and-white color, with large erect ears, standing out like 
 the wings of a butterfly, from which circumstance they are 
 sometimes called “butterfly-dogs.” They are produced by 
 “in-and-in breeding” and by the selection of the smallest for 
 reproducing their kind. Usually they weigh from 16 oz. to 
 3 lbs. and are about the size of an exaggerated rat. Their eyes 
 are large and languishing. Pure-bred specimens are dis- 
 tinguished by a depression ( mollera ) about the size of a pea 
 in the forehead, and by the possession of 20 nails — 5 on 
 each foot. They are fragile creatures, very sensitive to cold, 
 and very expensive. During the last decade their value 
 has risen enormously. Thoroughbreds that could be bought 
 formerly for ten pesos now bring hundreds and even thou- 
 sands of pesos. Some of the native women raise them with 
 tender solicitude, and expend upon them more care than they 
 give to their own offspring. The young dogs offered for sale 
 on the streets of Chihuahua are apt to develop into large and 
 lusty curs. 
 
 From early times until quite recently Chihuahua suffered from the 
 raids of Apache Indians. In reports dating from 1771 to 1776 one of 
 the Spanish governors mentions that 1,647 persons were murdered by 
 these barbaros; that 134 more were captured, 116 haciendas (farms) 
 burned, 66,125 head of stock stolen, and $16,000,000 worth of property 
 was destroyed. Early in the 19th century hordes of Apaches and Co- 
 manches poured across the Mexican border (from the U.S. A.), wintered 
 in the balmy climate of Chihuahua and made life a burden to the Spanish 
 settlers. It was not until about 1830 that the Mexican army awoke to 
 the necessity of inflicting severe reprisals on these red degenerates. By 
 the Proyecta de Guerra (war project) of 1837 the state government 
 offered a bounty of $100 for every Indian warrior’s scalp, and $50 for 
 that of a squaw. This proyecta had the effect of promptly lessening the 
 number of salvajes in the region contiguous to the capital city, and 
 when the bounty for a Buck’s scalp was raised to $250, the Apaches * 1 
 decided that life in Chihuahua was not conducive to Indian longevity. 
 Many bloody raids were, however, made between 1840 and 1850; the 
 Indians went as far south as San Luis Potosi and Zacatecas , burning 
 and plundering towns and killing the panic-stricken inhabitants. The 
 American idea of putting the rebellious red-skins on “reservations” and 
 preventing their leaving them brought the Mexican scourge to an end. 
 
 The production of Minerals is enormous. Silver is found 
 in almost unlimited quantities and much of the great wealth 
 of the state is drawn from its mines. The mountains are 
 
 of honey as do the bees of a colder clime, but sufficient only for the short 
 Mexican winter. 
 
 1 Apache is a Pima Indian word meaning enemy. The Apaches call 
 themselves Shis Inday , or “ men of the woods.” Consult Native Races , by 
 Hubert Howe Bancroft, vol. i, chap. v. 
 
32 Route 6. 
 
 CHIXIPAS DISTRICT Santa Eulalia 
 
 honeycombed with mines which produce gold, silver, copper, 
 and lead ores. The most celebrated districts are Santa Eulalia 
 (see below), Parr at (described at p. 64), Minas Nuevas, 
 Palmare jo, Guazapares, Cusihuiriachic, Batopilas, Cerro 
 Colorado , Corralitos, etc. 
 
 El Real de Santa Eulalia, about 17 M. (by railway, F. C. Mineral de 
 
 Chihuahua ) S.-E. of Chihuahua City, is the famous old mining-camp 
 to which Chihuahua owes its origin and prosperity. Discovered in 1703, 
 this district has been, and still is, one of the great silver-lead producers 
 of the world. For 86 years after its discovery (by outlaws who were 
 hiding from the authorities) the total output upon which the crown tax 
 (L was paid amounted to §112,000,000. The mines lie adjacent- to the 
 village of Santa Eulalia. Modern methods are now employed in their 
 working. 
 
 The Chinipas District, in the Sierra Madre Mts. near the 
 (southern) Sonora State line, is rich in mineral, timber, and 
 agricultural possibilities. The region is known to miners as 
 one in which there are many gold prospects. 
 
 In the State Mining Exhibit, at Chihuahua City, there is 
 a comprehensive collection of ores from different sections of 
 the state. 
 
 Chihuahua , see p. 25. Long lines of heavily laden ore-cars 
 usually stand on the Chihuahua sidings, and immediately to 
 the S. of the station are some hills with a number of mines. 
 Our train runs southward through a thinly populated coun- 
 try dotted here and there with tall cottonwood trees and 
 herds of goats (cobras) — the “ mutton ” of Mexico — attended 
 by ragged goatherds. Green fields (vegas) alternate with dry 
 river-beds ( arroyos ) and patches of brown land where plowmen 
 trench the soil with wooden plows after the style popular in 
 Pharaoh’s time. Hereabout irrigation is practised extensively 
 with the cool clear water which flows from a range of blue- 
 peaked hills hard by. 
 
 Landscape views in Mexico arc nearly always limited by hills: travel 
 where you may in the Republic hills generally form the background to a 
 view, and the fact that they usually harbor untold riches in their tawny 
 bosoms makes them doubly attractive to the utilitarian. For reference 
 to the component parts of some of these hills, and the minerals they 
 contain comp. p. Ixxxviii. 
 
 227 M. Santa Eulalia. 232 M. Alberto. 238 M . Mdpula. 253 
 M. Horcasitas. 264 M. Bachimba. 272 M. Consuelo .. 
 
 279 M. Ortiz. A few miles to the E. of this station is the 
 deserted Boer Colony which proved a failure. 2S4 M. Las 
 Delicias . 294 M. Saucillo. 315 M. La Cruz. The line describes 
 a wide curve and crosses a six-span steel bridge. 
 
 326 M. Santa Rosalia (4,086 ft.) with a pop. of 8,900 is 
 celebrated throughout Mexico for its Mineral Springs, which 
 are said to be efficacious in rheumatic ailments. The town 
 is known also as Camargo from being located in the district 
 (State of Chihuahua) of that name. It occupies the centre of 
 a fine agricultural region sprinkled with valuable mining pro- 
 
Jimenez . 
 
 SANTA ROSALIA 
 
 6. Route . 33 
 
 perties, but the native town, on a low bluff to the r. of the sta- 
 tion, is a straggling, nondescript place devoid of interesting 
 features. Hard by are the ruins of an old fortress which was 
 stprmed and taken by the Americans (in 1847) under Doni- 
 phan, during their march through this region to join General 
 Taylor , soon after the outbreak of the Mexican War (comp, 
 p. ccx). The country contiguous to Santa Rosalia produces 
 several fine crops of alfalfa ( Medicago sativa leguminosas ) each 
 year. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). Hotel Hidalgo , about 1 M. from the rly. station; 
 Amer. PI., management, and cooking; So a day; rooms only (of which 
 there are 25), SI to $2. Breakfast, in the restaurant, 75 c.; dinner or 
 supper SI. Baths 50 c. — Grand Hotel Comercio, £ M. from the station; 
 Am. PI. S2.50. Hotel omnibus meets all trains. To and from any hotel, 
 25 c. per person, including hand-luggage. Trunks 25 c. each. 
 
 The Hot Springs, 3 M. beyond the town, in the rich valley 
 of the Rio Conchos (shell river), were known to the Indians 
 for their curative powers before the Spaniards came to Mexico. 
 The Apaches of the S.-W. of the U. S. A. used to come here 
 to bathe in the sulphurous waters, which gush out from a 
 buff-colored bluff some 50 ft. high. The town records show 
 that persons so badly afflicted with rheumatism as to require 
 to be brought hither on a stretcher have come away from 
 the springs apparently cured after a short course of treat- 
 ment. The cab fare from the hotels in the town to the springs 
 and return is 81. If one goes to bathe the cab must be 
 paid for by and at the rate of 81 the hour. 
 
 The Gran Hotel de la Cueva ($2 to $6 a day Am. PI.) at the Springs 
 has 125 rooms (with the annex). Cab from the rly. station (4 M.) 
 SI. Bath attendants at reasonable rates. Baths 50 c. A booklet with 
 detailed information, analysis of the waters, etc., can be had free upon 
 application to the hotel management, or the passenger agent of the Na- 
 tional Railways of Mexico. 
 
 336 M. Bustamante. 347 M. Diaz . 359 M. Reforma. 
 
 371 M. Jimenez (pop. 9,000), junction of the Parral, 
 Branch to Rosario , 97 M. to the S.-W. (Rte. 15, p. 63). 
 
 As connections for the Parral Branch ( ramal de Parral ) are apt not 
 to be immediate (consult the Guia Oficial), and as the native town 
 (1 M. distant) is without adequate hotel accommodations, the traveller 
 is recommended to seek a lodging at one of the hotels immediately across 
 the street from the station. New York House, Charlie Chee, Chinese 
 management; English and Spanish spoken. The hotel, at the lower end 
 of the rly. yard, is a large, rambling structure, with a huge patio and 
 30 well-aired rooms on the ground floor. Best rooms, Am. PI. $5 a day; 
 the back rooms are $2.50. Single front room only, $2; back room $1. 
 Meals at any time during the night, or day, $1; breakfast 50 c. The 
 traveller is counselled to leave no portable articles near the barred win- 
 dows opening onto the street (comp, thieves, p. lxvii). The room doors 
 leading into the patio can usually be left open with safety. 
 
 Mrs. Town’s Hotel; rooms $1 to S3. Meals SI. Good milk and pastry. 
 Well spoken of. 
 
 Cargadores (comp. p. Hi) for one or two hand-bags to or from the 
 station 25 c. Double after 10 p. m. Heavy luggage for points on the 
 Parral Branch leaves from the same station ana is cared for by the rly. 
 company. 
 
34 Route 6. 
 
 JIMENEZ 
 
 Escalon. 
 
 The poor and uninteresting town of Jimenez lies in a well- 
 watered valley in which cotton is successfully cultivated. 
 The church spires of the town are visible above the trees. The 
 region is well known to archaeologists for its meteorites. 
 In 1521 the two halves of the great Chupaderos meteorite 
 ( meteorito ) were found 17 M. to the E. of the present station. 
 In 1600 the noted San Gregorio meteorite was found 36 M. 
 to the W. Later, another and smaller one, La Concepcion , 
 was found some 30 M. to the S.-W. Many less noteworthy 
 meteorites have been picked up in the vicinity. Those 
 above mentioned are now in the National School of Mines 
 at Mexico City (comp. p. 330). 
 
 Beyond Jimenez the line trends southward over a level 
 country to 379 M. Dolores; 392 M. Corralitos; 406 M. Relleno; 
 410 M. Asunsolo, and to the railway junction of 
 
 418 M. Escalon. 
 
 A railway line, Ferrocarril Mexicano del Norte , runs trains hence to 
 the Sierra Mojada Mining Region (73 M., one train daily in 4^ hrs., 
 fare [see p. xxxi]; consult the Guia Oficial), touching at the towns of 7 M. 
 La India; 19 M. Mariposa; 26 M. La Gloria; 30 M. Carrillo; 44 M. Guim- 
 balete; 56 M. Estanque; 65 M. Rincon; 68 M. El Puerto , and 72 M. Atre - 
 vesada. 
 
 We traverse an arid region crossed and recrossed by dry 
 water-courses which develop into raging torrents during the 
 rainy season. The wide river bottoms are sandy wastes 
 destitute of vegetation during nine months of the year. 
 Clouds of dust chase the train and penetrate the smallest 
 openings. 426 M. Zavalza. We enter the State of Durango 
 (p. 102). 437 M. Ceballos. 449 M. Yermo. 463 M. Conejos. 
 
 The Ferrocarril Central Durango runs trains hence to 22 M. 
 Drscubridora (one train a week, in 2 hrs., fare [see p. xxxi] ; consult the 
 Guia Oficial) viA 2 M. Santa Marina; 7 M. Jaralito; 19 M. Los Alamos . 
 
 477 M. Peronal. 
 
 492 M. Bermejillo (3,750 ft.), formerly Mapimi , in the great 
 Bolson de Mapimi , the deepest depression on the line. Hotel 
 San Carlos (near the rly. station), $2.50 Am. PI. Cab 25 c. 
 Trunk by cargador (comp. p. lii) 25 c. If the traveller has 
 a number of trunks he can hire a cart (consult the hotel 
 manager) for about 10 c. for each piece of baggage. An 
 agreement should be reached with the driver before starting. 
 
 The Ferrocarril de Mapimi runs trains hence (two trains daily in £ 
 hr., fare [seep, xxxi, and Guia Oficial]) to 15 M. Mapimi, touching at 6 M. La 
 Zanja. The silver-lead mining district of Mapimi produces large quan- | 
 titles of mineral. In agricultural progress and wealth the region round- j 
 about is one of the most advanced in the state. 
 
 Hence to Gomez Palacio (see page 35) the line traverses a 
 region celebrated for vast crops of corn, alfalfa and cotton. 
 The bottom-lands produce enormously under the stimulus of 
 irrigation. The many white- walled haciendas that dot the 
 country lend an air of thrift and comfort. Modem agricul- 
 
TORREON 
 
 8. Route. 35 
 
 tural machinery is used in this district and at certain sea- 
 sons hundreds of men and mules may be seen plowing with 
 American plows. Miniature plantation railways cross some 
 of the larger estates. Vast quantities of algodon (cotton, 
 comp. p. 102) are exported. We pass the stations of 497 M. 
 Santa Clara; 500 M. Brittingham; 503 M. Noe; 509 M. El 
 V ergel. 
 
 516 M. Gomez Palacio. End of a rly. division. Rly. shops. 
 The largest soap factory in the country is located here. 
 
 We cross the Rio Nazas (p. 103) and enter the State of Coa- 
 huila mentioned at p. 13. 
 
 519 M. Torreon, see below. For a continuation of the 
 journey see p. 36. 
 
 8. Torreon. 
 
 Torreon is a Railway Junction where trains usually stop for meals. Rly. 
 restaurant. For reference to the Rly. Line from Torreon to Durango, see 
 Rte. 26, p. 98; to Monterey and Tampico, Rte. 3, p. 11. 
 
 The City lies just to the E. of the station, and the several hotels are within 
 easy walking distance. 
 
 Cabs and Taxis are available. A price should be agreed upon before 
 starting on trips to Lerdo , Gomez Palacio , the Smelter , or other places outside 
 the city limits. The usual charge is $2.50 an hour; $1.50 a half hour or less. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). All near the plaza; Hotel Salvador; Hotel de 
 Francia; H. Leon de Oro; H. Iberia; H. Washington; H. San Carlos , H. 
 Mexico, and others. Rates from $2 up per day, for rooms only; meals a 
 la carta. Arrangements can be made to lodge on the American Plan, with 
 an inclusive charge for board and room. The prevalent dust makes upper 
 rooms more desirable than those on the ground floor. ’ 
 
 Tramways ( tranvias ) circle the town, run past the rly. station, and go to 
 the Smelter, Gomez Palacio, and Lerdo (State of Durango) on the Nazas 
 River. Time about 25 min. At Lerdo the cars stop at the Plaza , a restful 
 spot embowered in flowers and with many fine fresnos (ash trees). Many 
 Torreon people live in Lerdo (pop. about 9,000) because of lower rents, etc. 
 The cars usually are crowded on Sundays, at which time there are sports, 
 and music in the plaza. 
 
 Banks. Celso Garza Gonzalez is the correspondent of the Mexico City 
 Banking Corporation, S. A. — Banco Nacional de Mexico. 
 
 Baths ( bahos ). Certain of the newer type hotels now possess these, but 
 if the hotel the traveller decides to lodge at does not have bath rooms the 
 proprietor will indicate which of the city bathing establishments is the clean- 
 est and most popular. 
 
 Excursions. There is little to see in the environs, but if the traveller finds 
 himself at Torreon with time to spare, he perhaps will enjoy the tram-car ride 
 to Lerdo, referred to above. Lerdo is more attractive than Torreon in certain 
 of its aspects. It is an unusually quaint little town, and is quite expressive 
 of the somnolent condition of certain of the Mexican places untouched by 
 the hand of progress and rarely visited by foreign tourists. 
 
 Torreon (3,790 ft.), 707 M. from Mexico City, with a popu- 
 lation of 26,000 (increasing rapidly), a new and thriving town, 
 very rich commercially, in the productive Laguna district 
 (State of Coahuila), possesses cotton, flour, and iron mills 
 and many minor factories. The cotton mills obtain raw 
 material from the surrounding country. The huge smelter 
 receives ores from mines hundreds of miles distant. The land 
 adjacent to the town is the picture of desolation in the dry 
 season, but the rains bring it into life and verdure, and render 
 
36 Route 6. TORREON TO MONTEREY 
 
 Jimulco. 
 
 it beautiful and amazingly productive. Torreon was founded 
 in 1887 on a ranch known as El Coyote , and the town was 
 named for a watch-tower erected on the rancho to guard against 
 Indian marauders. Its progress has been so rapid that in 1907 
 it was elevated to the rank of a city. It is a place of dust and 
 energy; t he former is everywhere, the latter expresses itself in 
 line buildings, good streets and tram-lines. 
 
 A number of Americans have identified themselves with 
 Torreon, and not a little of its material progress is due to 
 them. There is a colonia China , and many of the Chinese 
 residents have acquired fortunes in the district. 
 
 The Plaza Principal, or Mayor, is the centre of the social 
 life of the city, and around it are grouped the chief commercial 
 houses, the administrative buildings, the hotels, moving 
 picture teatros, the banks, etc. 
 
 The Smelter (la fundicion) is owned and operated by Ameri- 
 can interests and is one of the most modern and efficient in the 
 Republic. 
 
 Torreon to Monterey, thence to Tampico. 
 
 To (226 M.' Monterey (Division de Monterey). Daily trains in about 
 12 hours. For fares, see page xxxi. 
 
 To (548 M.) Tampico. 
 
 The train runs toward the W. through a somewhat non- 
 descript country devoted to agriculture and stock-raising. 
 As a rule the towns are unimportant and call for no par- 
 ticular mention. The first large city, Monterey, is described 
 at p. 5. For a continuation of the journey from Monterey 
 to Tampico see Rte. 3, p. 11. 
 
 Torreon , see p. 35. The trend of the main line is still 
 southward, through a dusty, sparsely settled region. Many 
 norias, or water-wheels (Moorish in name and origin) for 
 irrigation, are seen. Curiously serrated hills cut the sky-line; 
 the train crosses many dry water-beds. For the next 200 M. 
 the grade slopes gradually upward until the highest point is 
 reached at Zacatecas (p. 38). 524 M. La Perla. 
 
 529 M. Mieleras. We enter the State of Durango (p. 102). 
 The environing land is waterless and we meet and pass water- 
 trains, with huge steel tanks, that have come from more 
 favored localities. 537 M. Nazareno. 545 M. Picardias. We 
 soon leave the State of Durango and recross the frontier of 
 Coahuila. 533 M. Jalisco. The grade slopes steadily upward. 
 
 563 M. Jimulco. Railwaj’ restaurant. The deeply fur- 
 rowed, washed-out land in the environs bears evidence of 
 the power of the downpours during the estacion de lluvias. 
 The train continues to cross a dreary district, with bare, 
 brown hills always in sight. Many of the stations are mere 
 flag-stops, nondescript, and desolate looking. We pass 567 
 
FRESNILLO 
 
 6. Route. 87 
 
 M. Otto; 572 M. Peralta; 579 M. Noria; 580 M. Calvo; 599 M. 
 La Mancha; 605 M. Acacia; 609 M. Rivas ; 615 M. Simon; 629 
 M. San Isidro , and 636 M. Fuertes y before entering the State 
 of Zacatecas. 
 
 643 M. Camacho. Between this point and La Colorada (see 
 below) many tall cacti are features of the landscape. A large 
 number of the 200 species said to exist along the main line of 
 the rly., on the plateau, are visible from the cars. Promin- 
 ent among them is the tall Yuca (p. lxxxviii), celebrated 
 for its love of solitude and for its delicate, cream-white flowers. 
 We pass the small stations of 651 M. Carlos; 656 M. Opal; 
 668 M. Guzman; 680 M. Pacheco , and 689 M. La Luz. The 
 hardy mesquite, the grease-wood (from which guayule- rubber 
 is extracted), and a host of bizarre desert plants flourish on 
 the sandy, wind-swept uplands. The brown adobe huts of 
 the peones so blend with the jejune landscape — merely 
 a deepening of shade against the sand — that at a distance 
 they are almost indistinguishable. The region looks utterly 
 desolate, but water makes it blossom like the rose. Along the 
 bleak highway — the play-ground of dancing whirlwinds 
 ( torbellinos ) — go lumbering and shrieking carts, innocent of 
 grease and laden with baled cotton, sacks of grain, bundles 
 of gray guayule , and sacks of ore. Many mines lie off in the 
 hills, and plodding oxen draw cumbersome carts with great 
 wooden wheels to and fro between them and the rly. stations. 
 
 701 M. La Colorada (6,520 ft.). We traverse a rolling coun- 
 try anon climbing up long gradients, then sweeping around 
 the bases of broad, squat hills and descending by long curves 
 into wide valleys, sprinkled with cacti and many species of 
 hardy desert plants. 707 M. Edmundo. 709 M. Cedro. 718 
 M. Cahitas. 725 M. Mesquite. 731 M. Gutierrez. We cross 
 the Tropic ( tropico ) of Cancer. The line continues to run 
 due south. 739 M. Mendosa. 
 
 749 M. Fresnillo (7,000 ft.). 
 
 “ Near Fresnillo a simple but significant ceremony was performed in 
 March, 1884. The spot was the meeting- place of the two lines of the 
 Mexican Central Railway, one of which had been built N. from Mexico 
 City, the other southward from El Paso. Two locomotives met here 
 and ‘ touched noses’ over the last rail. The American Consul from Zaca- 
 tecas stood on the pilot of the engine from the S. and his brother, who 
 was Mexican-born and a Mexican citizen, on that of the locomotive 
 from the North. The American brother waved the Mexican flag and the 
 Mexican brother the American flag. The American shouted, V V iva la Re- 
 publica de Mexico!' and the Mexican, * / Viva Los Estados Unidos del 
 Norte! 1 ‘ As we two brothers embrace, so may the two sister republics 
 embrace! ’ It was all spontaneous, and most symbolic of the event. 
 The laying of that last rail, a little to the S. of the Tropic of Cancer, com- 
 pleted the first railway in the world that had been built from the temper- 
 ate zone down into the tropics. It was one of the most important events 
 in the history of Mexico, for it made her practically a part of the world at 
 large, and it brought the capitals of the two largest republics in North 
 America into close and speedy communication.” (Sylvester Baxter, The 
 Cruise of a Land Yacht , Boston, 1891.) 
 
38 Route 9. 
 
 ZACATECAS 
 
 759 M. Ojueto. The line traverses a nopal forest sprinkled 
 with many tall Yucas — some of them of unusual size. 
 
 763 M. Caler a. Rly. restaurant, meals SI. The station 
 stands in the centre of a wade, w ind-swept plain : the old native 
 town, far to the r., is uninteresting. Ahead we descry the 
 brown hills around and over which w r e climb to Zacatecas. 
 The view T across the valley to the hills at the 1. is pretty. Near 
 the station are some Peruvian pepper-trees. The train runs 
 due S. on a perfectly straight track to 
 
 777 M. Pimienta. Here we begin the stiff climb into the 
 hills. The train compasses them by long, sweeping curves 
 around their smooth sides. As w^e ascend, other hills, hitherto 
 hidden from view, become visible on the sky-line. The wind 
 howis mournfully and the uplands hereabout are continually 
 swept by strong gales. A ride of nine miles, slowly and 
 laboriously compassed, brings us to 786 M. Zacatecas, see 
 below\ For a continuation of the journey see p. 44. 
 
 9. Zacatecas. 
 
 Arrival. The rly. station (PI. A, 6) is on the crest of a hill which 
 overlooks the town and many miles of southern country. Tram-cars 
 meet all trains, run to the central plaza, and pass the chief hotels. Fare 
 5 c., time 10 min. There are no cabs. Cargadores (comp. p. lii) charge 
 25 c. for a sizable hand-bag and 50 c. for a trunk. If the traveller has 
 much luggage he can save money by giving his checks to the hotel man- 
 ager and having his trunks brought to the hotel on a flat car of the tram 
 line. This plan also has the advantage of saving the time spent in dicker- 
 ing with the cargadores , who are a parlous lot. Hotel runners meet all 
 trains. Most of the hotels are within easy walking distance (down hill) 
 of the station. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). Hotel Colon , Calle de la Merced (PI. B, 4), 
 German management and cooking; $3.50 to $5 a day Am. PI. for the 
 front, upper rooms (preferable), and $2 to $3 for the inside rooms; Eng- 
 lish. French, German . Spanish and Dutch spoken. (Horses for hire to visit 
 the mines and neighboring haciendas.) — Hotel de la Plaza y Zacatecano 
 Vnidos, facing the Mercado Principal (PI. B, 4); French and Spanish 
 cuisine; English spoken; 82 to $2.50 Am. PI. — GranHotel Frances, facing 
 the Jardin and Plaza Hidalgo (PI. B, 3); French cuisine: English, French 
 and Spanish spoken; $2.50 to $3.50 Am PI. 
 
 Tramways. La Compahia Zacatecana de T ranvias, S. A., run cars fre- 
 quently to various parts of the city. By taking the different cars and 
 riding to the line terminals one can get a fair idea of the city. Fare, 
 between 7 a. m. and 7.30 p. m. 5 c.; thence to 10 p. m. 10 c.; until 6 a. m. 
 20 c. 
 
 Banks. Banco de Zacatecas. — Banco Nacional de Mexico. 
 
 Zacatecas (7,500 ft.), 439 M. north of Mexico City and 
 200 ft. higher; an important city of 33,000 inhabitants (8th 
 in point of population in the Repub.) and capital of the state 
 of the same name, lies in a narrow ravine at the foot of the 
 Grillo (cricket) and Bufa mountains. The houses are all 
 packed in the gulch or perched on the slopes, and the steepish 
 streets and lanes — many of w’hich are pieced out with stone 
 stairs — are mediaeval in aspect and highly picturesque. 
 Diminutive tram-cars thread some of the wider thorough- 
 

 \\ \ \' 
 
Climate. 
 
 ZACATECAS 
 
 9. Route. 39 
 
 fares, and when once at the higher levels they return to their 
 terminals by force of gravity. Surface water is scarce and 
 much of the liquid drunk in the city is brought up from deep, 
 flooded mines in huge, dripping, horse-hide sacks, swinging 
 at the ends of ropes wound about primitive windlasses. 
 Up and down the quaint streets go leather-clad aguadores, 
 or water-carriers, who obtain the precious liquid from the 
 public fountains and sell it from house to house. As the 
 sanitary arrangements leave much to be desired, the prudent 
 traveller will drink bottled or boiled water. 
 
 On an overcast day the city is a study in sepia, with its 
 jejune walls, ore-heaps, arched bridges, arroyos and criss- 
 cross roads. The sunlight picks out the few white and tinted 
 houses, high-lights them, and relieves, in a small way, the 
 melancholy aspect. Several fine buildings rescue the city 
 from the commonplace. The Palacio Municipal (PL B, 4), 
 the old Mint or Casa de Moneda (PI. B, 4), the (PI. B, 3) 
 Biblioteca Publica (with about 20,000 vols.) and the Tedtro 
 Calderon (PL B, 4) are the most noteworthy. But more inter- 
 esting still are the old churches (see p. cxiv), relics of a time 
 when Zacatecas was one of the most wonderful mining centres 
 on the continent. The cemetery ( Panteon del Refugio , PL A, 6), 
 at the top of the town, near the railway station, is a dreary 
 place. 
 
 The Climate is treacherous, and the thin, chilly air adds 
 to the general unhealthfulness. The cold, whining winds 
 which draw almost constantly through the gorge aid in the 
 development of the maladies which attack the respiratory 
 organs. The death rate is high, and pneumonia (pulmonia), 
 the disease most dreaded by dwellers at high elevations, is 
 prevalent. The winter is cold and uncomfortable; the sun 
 warms one'side of the street but leaves a penetrating coolness 
 in the shadows of the other side. The traveller should insist 
 upon lodgings which get the sun the greater part of the day. 
 The night air should be avoided. Outer wraps are advisable 
 at all seasons. 
 
 The name Zacatecas is derived from the Aztec zacatl or zacate , hay, 
 and tlan, country or place — zacatlan signifying the place occupied by 
 the tribe of Indians known as Zacatecos. The history of the city, though 
 drawn out over many years, is brief — with a silver lining. The early 
 Spanish explorers were ambulating divining-rods and they were not 
 long in discovering the immense mineral wealth bound up in the moun- 
 tains of the present State of Zacatecas. After a few decisive skirmishes 
 with the Zacatecos the district was added to the Spanish Colonial pos- 
 sessions (in 1546) by Juan de Tolsa, and Fray Geronimo de Mendoza. 
 Two years later the present city was founded by the said Tolsa, Cristobal 
 de Onale , Baltazdr Temino de Banuelos and Diego de Ibarra. Felipe II 
 pronounced it a ciudad April 17, 1585; and by the royal cedula signed 
 in the Escorial July 20, 1588, it was given the resounding title of Muy 
 Noble y Leal Ciudad de Nuestra Senora de los Zacatecos — very noble 
 and loyal city of Our Lady of the Zacatecos. It proved its loyalty by 
 starting — and maintaining — a stream of silver Spainward that could 
 
40 Route 9. 
 
 ZACATECAS 
 
 Cathedral. 
 
 scarcely have been exceeded by a modern pipe-line. According to old 
 chroniclers, the district yielded, between 1548 and 1832, silver bullion 
 to the value of 667.343,299 pesos — a very tidy sum. The workings were 
 very crude ; had they been up to modern standards the output would 
 perhaps have been doubled. Ever since they were discovered the metal- 
 pregnant mountains have continued to yield enormous quantities of 
 precious metals. The old mines — with which the ground beneath the 
 city is honeycombed — are still worked, and new claims are being con- 
 stantly added. More than a hundred mines are in operation, and the 
 annual output of silver aggregates $6,000,000. (Comp. p. lxxxviii.) 
 
 A visit to one of the deep mines (permit easily obtained) 
 is interesting. Some of the very deep tunnels are apt . to be 
 uncomfortably hot. Primitive methods are still employed 
 and the ores are brought up by means of crude windlasses, 
 or in raw-hide sacks slung on the backs of peones who, with 
 a 100 or 200 lb. weight, will climb a rickety chicken-ladder, 
 that would make a steeple-Jack dizzy. Certain of the straight- 
 shaft mines are entered in a bucket attached to the end of 
 a long rope operated by a hurro- or peon- power windlass. 
 Ladies do not find these trips to their liking. Some of the 
 mines have semi-horizontal tunnels along which run minia- 
 ture railways, while others use electric hoists. One’s consul 
 or a resident friend will be useful in securing permits and 
 acting as interpreter. 
 
 Tne first church erected in Zacatecas was La Parroquia 
 (in 1559), which stood on the site of the present cathedral. 
 The Cathedral (PI. B, 4) itself was begun in 1612 • the first 
 service was held Dec. S, 1625, and the edifice was completed 
 and dedicated (to Nuestra Sehora de la Asuncion) Aug. 15, 
 1752. The funds for its construction were obtained from a 
 tax levied on the silver output of certain mines underhung 
 the city. Its income — derived from the same source — soon 
 became so great that all Europe was ransacked for pictures 
 and ornaments for its decoration. One embellishment was a 
 massive font of solid silver, valued at more than one hundred 
 thousand pesos. In the Spanish Colonial days the Cathedral 
 was a blaze of gold and silver candelabra, costly vestments, 
 and beautiful pictures — the latter brought from some of 
 the finest collections of the Old World. 
 
 To certain of these wealthy churches in the midst of rich silver-mining 
 regions. Mexico owes many of the fine paintings and art antiques now 
 extant in the Republic. Rich miners endowed some of the churches with 
 fabulous sums and not a little of the money went abroad to be invested 
 in adornments for them. Unfortunately much of this wealth disappeared 
 from the churches soon after the Reform I^aws decreed the sequestra- 
 tion and nationalization, of church properties. (Comp. p. ccxix.) 
 
 Two years after the See was established (Jan. 26, 1862) 
 at Zacatecas, the present ch. was consecrated as the Cathedral. 
 It remains the most interesting edifice in the city, and the 
 richly carved portico is perhaps one of the most elaborate in 
 the Republic. Its style “ is similar to that of Santa Monica 
 in Guadalajara (p. 166), but much intensified — a sort of 
 
Sarapes. 
 
 ZACATECAS 
 
 9. Route. 41 
 
 Plateresque development elaborated in the highest degree 
 with most intricate ornament. The side entrance, less exuber- 
 ant than the front, belongs to another period than the latter, 
 and suggests a less over-developed Plater esqueP The dark 
 red sandstone of the facade bears the marks of time. Life- 
 size figures of Christ and the Apostles stand in niches above 
 the entrance, which is a striking example of early ecclesiastical 
 architecture. The completed tower and the handsome tiled 
 dome are visible from nearly all over the city. The interior 
 has lately been decorated in such a way as to deprive it of 
 all interest for travellers. 
 
 “The handsome Church of Santo Domingo (PL B. 3), orig- 
 inally the Jesuit Church known as La Compama , is an ad- 
 mirable example of the Spanish Baroque , peculiarly the style 
 of the Jesuits. The inscription on the facade, to the effect 
 that it was begun in 1746 and completed in 1769, marks it 
 as an example of remarkable celerity in construction. The in- 
 terior is fairly well preserved in its original condition, marred 
 only by the demolition of the magnificent old high altar with 
 its C hurrigueresque reredos (comp. p. cxxxii), to be replaced 
 by a commonplace modern construction. The excellent mural 
 paintings remain intact, together with the co-lateral altars, 
 which are peculiarly interesting from the way in which the 
 Renaissance lines upon which the C hurrigueresque ornament 
 has been developed give form to the work. As usual, the great 
 mass is in gold, accented by the polychrome of the figures 
 that stand both detached and in relief. The octagonal sacristy 
 is a strikingly handsome room of good proportions and rich 
 decorations. The arabesque ornament, together with the 
 representation of the instruments of the Passion that cover 
 the walls, is painted in brilliant, positive colors upon canvas.” 
 
 La Capilla de los Remedios , called also El Patrocinio, erected 
 in 1728 on the summit of El Cerro de la Bufa (PI. C, 3), a high 
 hill at the S. of the city, is interesting for the chapel which 
 contains an image of a Virgin to whom the Indians attribute 
 miraculous powers of healing. They make long pilgrimages 
 hither to implore her protection, or in payment of promises 
 made in moments of sickness or danger. A well-defined road 
 leads up to the summit of the Bufa, which should be ascended 
 if only for the sake of the magnificent view. A meteorolog- 
 ical observatory also stands on the hilltop. 
 
 Churches of minor importance are San Juan de Dios, San 
 Aqustin , San Francisco (at present owned by the Presbyterian 
 Mission Society), La Merced and a new r ch. now being built 
 near the railway station. 
 
 In the Plaza Hidalgo (PI. B, 3) is a handsome equestrian 
 statue in memory of General Ortega, a military hero. The 
 bronze bust of General Miguel Anza was unveiled in 1908. 
 
 Zacatecas has a reputation for its fine sarapes; some of the 
 
42 Route 9. 
 
 GUADALUPE 
 
 Chicomoztoc. 
 
 old blue-and-white ones (prices vary from $20 to $100 accord- 
 ing to quality and age) make desirable souvenirs. The cheaper 
 grades, which can be bought for $3 to $15, are on sale at all 
 the shops. The better kinds are generally bought up by the < 
 dealers in antiques at Mexico City. 
 
 Diligences run hence to a number of near-by towns and haciendas. 
 Consult the hotel manager or the Guia OfLcial. 
 
 Guadalupe (PI. E, 5), a suburb at the southern end of the 
 valley, at the mountain base, is reached easiest by tram-cars 
 (frequently from the plaza, in 30 min.), which run by gravity j 
 through narrow tortuous streets, past many mine tunnels, 
 slag-piles and primitive smelters. The trip back is a laborious 
 one (for the traction animals) and consumes about 45 min. 
 As the cars sweep round the sharp corners the driver toots 
 a horn as a warning to pedestrians. The cars stop near the 
 chief attraction of the place, the Church of Nuestra Sehora 
 de Guadalupe , a large cruciform structure, with two fine I 
 cimborios, a pair of quaint belfries and some handsomely j 
 decorated chapels. The Colegio w^as founded in 1707 by Fray 
 Antonio M argil de Jesus, an Hermano of the Colegio de la 
 Santa Cruz of Queretaro. The present ch. dates from 1721; 
 the interior has suffered redecoration. Prior to the Leges de la 
 Reforma (p. ccxix) this ch. possessed some magnificent silver 
 ornaments, the product of the rich Zacatecas mines. Some 
 of the old pictures still remain, notably a fine Last Supper by 
 Antonio de Torres (1720). Other pictures by the same painter 
 are San Francisco on the Monte Alverna, and a striking San 
 Buenaventura receiving the Sacrament. 
 
 Excursions: One of the most interesting is to the ruins 
 known as Los Edificios (the edifices) on the Hacienda La 
 Quemada (the burned one), 36 miles S.-E. of the city. These 
 ruins are among the least known and least visited in Mexico, 
 and are supposed to be the remains of the ancient city of 
 Chicomoztoc (the seven caves), founded by the Aztecs during 
 their period of wandering in search of the Valley of Anahuac. 
 They were the last native tribe to people the Valley of Mexico 
 and they are supposed to have emigrated from their original 
 home ( Aztlan ), somewhere near the Gulf of California, in 
 1160. History records that after crossing the Colorado (red) j 
 River they reached the Gila River, in Arizona, founding there 
 a city called Casas Grandes (big houses), the ruins of w r hich 
 still remain. Continuing their peregrinating southward, they 
 established in the Mexican State of Chihuahua another Casas 
 Grandes (see p. 54). In time this stronghold was abandoned 
 and the restless tribe moved westward toward Cidiacan (then 
 H ueicolhuacan) , capital of the State of Sinaloa. Here they 
 remained three years, leaving behind them, when they again 
 took up the march, a huge statue of H uitzilo pochtli , the Aztec 
 
CHICOMOZTOC 
 
 9. Route. 43 
 
 war-god, similar to the one in the Mexico Museum. Travel- 
 ling toward the south-east, they came to Durango, where they 
 met a tribe supposed to be the Zacatecos, whom they attacked 
 and defeated. They remained but a short time on the plains 
 of Chimalco, from which point they moved on to the site of 
 the present Edificios, which they are believed to have built 
 in 1170. 
 
 In time six Indian tribes are known to have branched out 
 from this stronghold, like bees swarming from a hive. To 
 historians they are known as the Chichimecas , the Tepenecas , 
 Colhuas, Chalcas, Tlahuicas and Tlaxcaltecas. They all moved 
 southward, the Aztecs , or Mexico , remaining. Here the latter 
 dwelt for nine years, when, abandoning Chicomoztoc, they 
 zig-zagged across the country, always trending south, until, 
 in 1196 they reached the famous city of Tula (the Tollan 
 of the Toltecs). From this spot they conquered the Toltecs, 
 drove them from the country and then spread over the Valley 
 of Mexico, where some centuries later the Spaniards found 
 their descendants. 
 
 The Ruins of Chicomoztoc, known also as Las Ruinas 
 de la Quemada, stand on an eminence of a mountain ridge 
 7,600 ft. above sea-level, in the district of Villanueva. They 
 form an extensive group, which is divided into three parts 
 and designated as La Ciudadela (the citadel), El Palacio (the 
 palace) and El Templo (the temple). The dry, rarefied air 
 has preserved them much in the same state as when the Span- 
 iards discovered them in 1535. Architecturally they compare 
 unfavorably with the ruins of Palenque (in Chiapas) and 
 Chicken Itza (in Yucatan), yet the traveller stands amazed at 
 their solidity. 
 
 The remains of streets, dwellings, temples, towers and store- 
 houses extend over a vast area. The majority of the houses 
 are constructed of a hard stone held together by a cement 
 made of a peculiar red clay and corn-husks. An abundance 
 of limpid water still flows from several of the city fountains 
 and forms the only active principle in this silent city of the 
 dead. Carved idols of many forms and sizes, fragments of 
 pottery, obsidian knives, chiselled flag-stones, arrow-heads 
 and human bones lie scattered about the place. In a letter 
 written by one of the Spanish discoverers in 1535, we read: 
 “They discovered a large depopulated city of sumptuous 
 edifices built of stone and lime. The streets and plazas were 
 wide, well laid out and of imposing appearance. A quarter 
 of a league from the city stood a cue , or tower, with a fine 
 calzada (roadway) leading therefrom to another tower stand- 
 ing at some distance. There were four towers in all, with their 
 connecting calzadas, and they guarded the four corners of the 
 city. In the centre was a cue of great height, and fronting it 
 was a fountain pouring forth a stream of limpid water very 
 
44 Route 9. 
 
 STATE OF ZACATECAS 
 
 pretty to behold ” — a stream that has run perchance for 
 hundreds of years and which may continue to run forever. 
 
 By starting early from Zac. one can reach the ruins after a day’s ride 
 on horseback. Excursions can be planned by the hotel manager, who ]| 
 will furnish the horses and a guide. Lodgings and food can be obtained i 
 at the Hacienda of La Quemada, but intending visitors should write 
 ahead for rooms. A day can be well spent examining the ruins and the 
 return can be made the third day. The complete journey should not ! 
 cost above $20. A woman would find the trip somewhat arduous. 
 
 If the aim be merely to get a view of Indian ruins, the traveller is | 
 recommended to forego this trip and to visit the more accessible and very 
 interesting ruins of Xochicalco. near Cuernavaca , or Mitla. near Oaxaca . 
 The latter are the more interesting. 
 
 Zacatecas, with a pop. of 462,190 and an area of 63,3S6 
 sqr. kiloms., one of the richest and most highly mineralized of 
 the interior Mexican States, is bounded on the N. by Coahuila , 
 on the E. by San Luis Potosi , on the S. by Aguascalientes i 
 and Jalisco and on the W. by Durango. It is situated on the 
 Great Central Plateau and is one of the most mountainous j 
 regions in the Republic — its mean altitude being 7,500 ft. 
 The principal mountains are Mazapil, NoviLlos , Calabozal f ] 
 Tecolote, Pichihualtepec, Pitiquitas, San Pedro , Tetillas, Mes - ; 
 quital , Chacuaco, Melilla, Chapultepec and the Pico de Teyra. 
 
 The Climate is cold in the highlands (where bronchial 
 affections are common), temperate on the Mt. slopes and hot 
 on the sandy plains. 
 
 The Fauna and Flora are limited, as are also the rivers, 
 chief among which is the Rio Grande de N ieves and the Juchipila. \ 
 
 The history of the state is virtually that of the capital city, 
 described at p. 38. Mining and stock-raising are the chief in- I 
 dustries. The Zacatecas region is said to be one of the richest 
 mineral belts in the world. The Sierra de Zacatecas has pro- 
 duced almost fabulous wealth in gold and silver, as well as 1 
 minor quantities of mercury, iron, copper, zinc, lead, coal, 
 bismuth and salt. Hundreds of mines have been in operation 
 since the Spaniards first invaded the region nearly four cen- 
 turies ago, and the amount of silver ore extracted since that j 
 period is enormous: the total value is estimated at over a 
 thousand million pesos. 
 
 Zacatecas , see p. 38. We get a fine retrospective view of 
 Zacatecas (much like a Judean town) as we descend the rap- j 
 idly widening valley toward Guadalupe. The queer old walled j 
 cemetery, a gruesome spot, is left behind on the r. Piles of 
 tailings, mine-shafts, windlasses, kilns and heaps of ore fresh | 
 from the bosom of the hills are seen on the 1. We cross sev- j 
 eral gulches and sweep round many curves before reaching 
 the lower level of the valley. 
 
 792 M. Guadalupe (p. 42). The town lies to the 1. of the 
 track, with the old church and colegio in the foreground. 
 Fine view of the sloping valley on the left. 
 
AGUASCALIENTES 
 
 10. Route. 45 
 
 798 M. San Geronimo , at the bottom of a wide valley. We 
 climb the smooth side of the hill beyond and emerge at 801 
 M. Trancoso, on a beautiful upland plain which affords splendid 
 and uninterrupted views. 815 M. Berriozabal. We enter the 
 State of Aguascalientes. 824 M. Soledad. 831 M. Punta. 
 
 837 M. Rincon de Romos (or Victoria de Calpulapam) , chief 
 town of the distrito of the same name; 43 kilom. from the 
 capital of the state ( Aguascalientes ) and an important mar- 
 ket for Mexican produce. 
 
 A branch line ( Ramal de Tepezald) runs hence through the towns of 
 Julian and Tepezala to 17 Kilom. Cobre (one train daily in 14 hr., con- 
 sult the Guia Oficial), in the centre of a mining region. 
 
 We traverse a level country, passing the small stations of 
 842 M. Pabellon; 846 M. Las Animas ; 853 M. Chicalote. 8G1 M. 
 
 Aguascalientes, see below. 
 
 From Aguascalientes, vid Leon, Silao, Irapuato, Celaya and 
 Queretaro to Mexico City, see Rte. 31, p. 122. 
 
 10. Aguascalientes. 
 
 Railway restaurant; meals, SI. Electric cars meet all trains, fare to 
 the town (about 1 M. to the right of the station) 6 c. The service is so 
 satisfactory that cabs rarely compete. Hand-luggage only may be taken 
 on the tram-cars, which pass by the chief hotels. Checks for trunks (50 c.) 
 should be handed over to the hotel manager. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). No omnibuses. Hotel Bellini , Primera Olle 
 de Victoria No. 8, American management and cooking, S4 to S6 Am. PI., 
 according to location of room. Upper rooms preferable. 
 
 American Newspapers and magazines, post-cards, curios, etc., A. B. 
 Culver , north side of Plaza. 
 
 Cabs. In the town 50 c. an hr. or fraction. Double after 10 p. m. 
 
 Tram-cars (electric) connect the town with several attractive suburbs, 
 and run at frequent intervals. Fares moderate. 
 
 Banks. Banco de Aguascalientes. — Banco Nacional de Mexico. 
 
 Baths (comp. p. lii). The town is noted for its excellent thermal 
 baths. As bathing establishments frequently change ownership the 
 traveller is counselled to confer with the hotel manager and learn which is 
 the best and cleanest. Those frequented by the lower and middle classes 
 should be rigorously avoided. Prices vary from 25c. to $1, according to 
 the lujo or style of the equipment. 
 
 Aguascalientes (hot waters), 6,280 ft. above sea-level, 
 with a pop. of 56,500; capital of the State of Aguascalientes , 
 364 M. N. of Mexico City, with telegraphs, telephones, com- 
 fortable hotels, good schools, hospitals and public libraries, 
 is celebrated for its almost perfect climate, for its fine thermal 
 springs and its delicious fruits. It is sometimes referred to 
 as La Ciudad Perforada (the perforated city) because of an 
 extensive system of tunnels beneath it. This labyrinth of 
 catacombs, excavated by some pre-historic, unknown tribe, 
 has never been thoroughly explored, although it is known 
 that the tunnels are subdivided into many ramifications, some 
 of the latter used as cess-pools. It is said that neither Toltec , 
 Aztec nor Tarascon annals refer to them or to their builders. 
 
46 Route 10. AGUASCALIENTES History. 
 
 The people who dug them evidently followed some well-de- 
 fined plan, for at intervals throughout the city the tunnels 
 connect at the surface by shafts which formerly admitted 
 light and air. Into these mysterious wells the thoughtless 
 now cast their refuse, and at no distant date this strange 
 handiwork of a forgotten race will perhaps be filled in and 
 forgotten. 
 
 History. The first historical records of A guascalientes date from 1522. 
 soon after the downfall of Tenochtitldn (p. clxxxviii). No sooner was the 
 Valley of Mexico in possession of the Spaniards than Cortes sent. the re- 
 nowned Pedro de Alvarado northward at the head of an exploring expe- 
 dition composed of Spaniards, their Tlascalan allies and a few conquered 
 Aztecs. They were met near the Cerro de los Gallos (cockerel mountain) 
 by a host of fierce, well-armed Indians, and a sanguinary battle ensued. 
 Tradition has it that Alvarado found himself hard -pushed and was forced 
 to bury a vast amount of spoils accumulated during his journey hither. 
 The credulous among the lower classes make frequent efforts to unearth 
 this alleged treasure. 
 
 In 1575 Felipe II issued a decree permitting the founding of the present 
 city under the title of Asuncion de Aguascalientes. The land was given 
 to certain Spanish nobles with the proviso that they would wrest it from 
 the Indians and colonize it! The first buildings were some small adobe 
 forts and dwellings and a little chapel, erected on the site of the present 
 church of San Diego. For many years the town was but a stockaded out- 
 post in a wilderness which swarmed with hostile savages — the outraged 
 Chichimecs , who waged a relentless war against the invaders. Those of 
 the Indians who escaped extermination were finally subdued. In 1576 
 the village was visited by the terrible Matlazahuatl (plague) and nearly 
 wiped out. It was not until 1596 that it attained any importance. In 
 161 1 it was christened Villa de Nuestra Seiiora de la Asuncion de Aguas- 
 calientes hot water town of Our Lady of the Assumption), and in 1S24 
 it was raised to the category of a ciudad. It was made the capital of 
 the State of Aguascalientes (p. 47) in 1835. 
 
 The real importance of the place dates from a period early in 1800 
 when rich silver-mines were discovered at Tepezald. Coincidently the 
 Jesuits took a keen interest in the spiritual welfare of the people, and 
 churches rose beneath the hands of the Indian converts. The city throve 
 and to-day it is one of the most attractive and promising in the Republic. 
 
 The Climate is mild and the death rate of the city is unu- 
 sually low. It is highest during the annual fiesta de San Marcos , 
 which begins usually in April and ends in May. The city is 
 then so crowded with pilgrims — many of whom bring hordes 
 of strange microbes with them — that hotel lodgings are diffi- 
 cult to obtain and the streets are filled with sleeping pelados. 
 Another annual fiesta is held in October. Travellers intending 
 to visit the city at these times should arrange for lodgings 
 in advance. 
 
 The benign climate makes the region a sort of open-air 
 sanitarium and the rly. maintains a well-appointed hospital 
 (handsome garden) here (to the 1. of the station) for its em- 
 ployees. 
 
 The making of drawn-linen (comp. p. lxix) is an important 
 industry. Some of this work (usually of an inferior quality) 
 is offered for sale (bargaining necessary) at the railway sta- 
 tion. The best work nearly always finds its way to the an- 
 tique shops of Mexico City. Other manufacturing industries 
 
STATE OF AGUASCALIENTES 10. Rte. 47 
 
 are cotton-mills, tobacco-factories, pottery-works, tanneries, 
 wine-making and whatnot. Tiny horse-hair hats are made 
 in limited quantities for sale to tourists. Sarapes of mediocre 
 quality are also a product of the place; as a rule the colors 
 are too pronounced to please the foreign taste. 
 
 Numerous pretty plazas embowered in luxuriant vegeta- 
 tion dot the city: chief among them is El Jar din de San Marcos 
 (named for the patron saint of the city) ; El Alameda de Ojo 
 Caliente (hot-springs park), the Alameda Francisco Hornedo 
 (much frequented) and that of Porfirio Diaz, General Zara- 
 goza , La Merced, San Diego, etc. The striking Ionic column 
 in the Plaza de la Constitucion was erected about 1800 
 for a bust of the Emperor Charles IV, to commemorate his 
 advent to the throne. For political reasons a bust of Fer- 
 nando VII was placed thereon instead, but it was thrown 
 down and demolished during the war for Independence. The 
 column now serves to commemorate the founding of the city. 
 
 El Palacio de Gobierno — the old feudal castle of the 
 Marques de Guadalupe — and the Palacio Municipal con- 
 tain nothing of interest. The first school opened in the town 
 was due to Francisco Rivero, in whose honor an annual fiesta 
 is held. The Church of San Marcos contains a good picture — 
 The Adoration of the Kings — by Jose Alzibar (comp. p. 
 clii), and that of San Diego one depicting scenes in the life 
 of San Francisco, by Juan Correa (p. cxlix). The somewhat 
 bizarre Church of San Antonio (said to have cost $800,000) 
 recalls to mind the Cathedral of St. Basil, at Moscow. There 
 are a number of minor churches of no particular interest. The 
 bells of some of them are said to contain a large percentage 
 of silver in their composition. 
 
 The State of Aguascalientes, with a population of 105,000 and 
 an area of 7,644 sqr. kilom., is one of the smallest of the Mexican Confed- 
 erate States and occupies a fine region on the Great Central Plateau, 
 some 6,000 ft. above sea-level. By reason of this altitude the climate is 
 temperate and salubrious. The adjoining State of Zacatecas almost sur- 
 rounds Aguascalientes on the N.-W. and N.-E., while TaZLsco del im ns iton 
 the S.-E. and S. It is usually fertile, of magnificent promise, and is cele- 
 brated for its many Mineral Springs — San Nicolas de la Canter a (St. 
 Nicholas of the quarry), Ojo Caliente , Ojo Calientillo (little hot spring), 
 Colombo and 15 others of minor importance. The chief constituents of 
 these thermal waters are sulphate of soda, S. of lime, carbonate of lime, 
 chloride of sodium, magnesia, traces of organic materials and carbonic 
 and sulphuric acids. The average temperature is 38° Centigrade. 
 
 Each of the four political divisions of the state produces maize, beans, 
 wheat, barley, a variety of sweet potato known locally as Carnote (of 
 which a delightful sweetmeat is made), green peppers, chick-peas, pea- 
 nuts ( cacahuates ) and a host of minor products. Fine vineyards ( vinas ) 
 dot certain sections of the state, and the cultivation of white-mulberry 
 leaves as food for silkworms is a growing source of wealth. Large quan- 
 tities of raisins are cured, and a grape conserve ( uvate ) is exported in 
 quantities. One of the best-known wines is Calvillo. A delicious variety 
 of fig, fine pears, apples, peaches, apricots, sweet and sour limes and 
 lemons, oranges, watermelons, custard-apples, alligator-pears, and an 
 extensive list of melons (of which there are 48 kinds) come to fruition 
 throughout the year. Some very excellent honey is produced and shipped 
 
48 Rte. 11. AGU ASC ALIEN TES TO TAMPICO 
 
 ii. From Aguascalientes to Tampico, via 
 San Luis Potosi. 
 
 421 M. Trains leave from the main-line stations (railway restaurants) 
 at both Aguascalientes and San Luis Potosi. Pullman cars from Mexico 
 City via S. L. P. For fares see the mileage rate at p. xxxi. The best 
 scenery on the line is between Cdrdenas and Tomasopo. 
 
 The line runs toward the N.-E. across a rolling country ; 
 dotted here and there with unimportant towns. To 51 M. La \ 
 Honda , the grade is upward, thence it gradually descends to 
 139 M. San Luis Potosi, an important mining centre described 
 at p. 17. From this point (6,290 ft.) it slopes steadily toward | 
 the Gulf; gradually, to 256 M. Cdrdenas (4,000 ft.), on the 
 edge of the high plateau, thence- sharply to 287 M. Tomasopo \ 
 (1,330 ft.), at the foot of the first steep descent. The scenery 
 along the 31 miles from the tableland to the valley ranks with 
 the finest on the continent. The transition from the arid mesa 
 to the lush, semi-tropics is as abrupt as it is beguiling. The 
 Tomasopo Canon is one of the finest stretches on the fine. A 
 charming waterfall pours into it from the hills on the left. 
 L’sually the train traverses this section during the early morn- 
 ing hours, and at this time the country is dew-drenched and 
 beautiful. The valleys and the sloping hillsides produce a riot 
 of vegetation, most of which glows with some variety of lovely 
 tropical flower. A host of brilliant tropical birds enliven the I 
 landscape, and almost deafen one with their trillings when the | 
 train stops at some wayside station. Lithe, graceful bamboos I 
 rear their plumed heads above the rank undergrowth and in 
 turn are topped by lordly palms. In places these grow asj 
 thick as pines in a New England grove. The rich stretches 
 of sugar-cane which occasionally dot the region advertise j 
 the possibilities of reclamation and cultivation. Picturesque i 
 ranchiios spread over some of the hillsides, the owners waging; 
 a perpetual war with the ever-restless jungle. In the little 
 clearings surrounding their modest homes one notes a variety 
 of luscious tropical fruits — oranges, big yellow grapefruit j 
 ( torojijas ) seemingly ready to burst with their overload of rich 
 juice and pulp; zapotes , papayas , mangos , bananas, chirwioyas , 
 cgi acates, v ameyes and a host of minor beauties. The entire 
 district recalls the primitive, biblical region flowing with milk 
 and honey, and only awaiting the hand of man to make it 
 extraordinarily productive. Many of the trees bear as un- 
 welcome guests orchids of glowing and exquisite colors. The 
 epiphytal group (compare p. 564) is widely represented here- 
 about, and perhaps some day will be sought for by the lovers 
 of the thousands of varieties of highly valuable orchids for 
 which Mexico is noted. 
 
Ebano. 
 
 TAMPICO 
 
 11. Route. 49 
 
 317 M. Micos. The name would imply that there are 
 monkeys or apes in the environs. A cluster of quaint, straw- 
 thatched huts stand on a series of irregular terraces at the 
 right of the rly. line, and recall certain views in distant Japan. 
 The environs are charmingly tropical. Green parrots are 
 guests in some of the houses. Beyond the hamlet, at the left, 
 a beautiful cascade of crystal water dances gaily down through 
 a tangled green gorge. Many of the jungle trees are festooned 
 with Spanish Moss ( Tillandsia asneoides). The train still 
 descends, and the consequently increased pressure on the 
 travellers’ ear-drums causes a fluttering until the Eustachian 
 tube adjusts itself to the lower level. The rly. winds around 
 the broad shoulders of verdure-covered hills, and in its twists 
 and turns reveals far-reaching vistas across deep valleys to 
 higher hills on the distant skyline. Big game roams the 
 region and affords sport to many Tampico residents. 
 
 The region hereabout is known as the Huasteca potosina 
 (the Huasteca district of the State of San Luis Potosi), to dif- 
 ferentiate it from the Huasteca veracruzana which, lies south- 
 ward from the border of the Panuco River (mentioned at 
 page 50#). Wild olives, precious woods, a wealth of luscious and 
 varied tropical fruits, and a host of tropical flowers with many 
 orchidaceous plants in evidence are features of the country. 
 Quite possibly a wealth of golden oil lies beneath the surface, 
 for the region hence to the Gulf is in the oil-bearing district. 
 We cross several deep barrancas before coming to the small, 
 nondescript station of El Abra, whence Tampico draws much 
 of its building stone. As if vying with other vegetation, the 
 cacti in this productive region sends out crimson shoots. The 
 quick eye will note many beautiful papilio busy among the 
 flowers. We emerge from the jungle and cross a broad, re- 
 claimed plain to 
 
 385 M. Ebano, in the midst of the famous oil region of the 
 same name. Oil-tanks, tank-cars, pipe-lines, and the heavy, 
 sweetish smell of oil in the air are now noticeable. Before, at, 
 and beyond the small station of Chila, oil-wells are visible 
 across the country at the right. At Tamos we glimpse the 
 broad and busy Panuco, with oil-barges being pushed up and 
 down stream. The rly. bridge visible at the right, crosses the 
 Pdnuco and forms a part of the short line under course of con- 
 struction between Tampico and Mexico City. Oil Terminals 
 are features of the river bank; the low walls at the base of the 
 oil-tanks scattered here and there are to retain the oil if it 
 catches fire and thus localize the disaster. We flank the 
 Panuco (right) and cross the Tamesi (p. 50/) at the point 
 where it unites its waters with those of the P&nuco. The foreign 
 colonies of Tampico are visible on the high bluff at the left. 
 The auto road at the right leads up country to various towns 
 on the river bank. It is being extended. Many tankers go up 
 
50 Route 11. 
 
 TAMPICO 
 
 Hotels . 
 
 and down the river, or receive their oily cargos at various 
 jetties. The busy river is but a mild exhibit of the energy and 
 progress which characterize Tampico, the largest oil-shipping 
 port in the world. 421 M. Tampico. 
 
 Tampico 
 
 Arrival. The Union Railway Station is near the So. edge of the com- 
 mercial section of the city, 2 min. walk from the river and the custom house 
 pier, and 5-10 min. from the Imperial or Southern Hotels. Taxis (see below) 
 meet trains and ships . Fare to any hotel, $1.50; to the residential section, 
 $1.50 to S2.50. Handbags and a small trunk can be carried in the taxi at 
 no extra cost. If the traveller has but one or two light handbags, and is not 
 averse to carrying them, he is advised to seek his hotel see the accompany- 
 ing Plan) on foot. As Tampico cargadores (comp. p. Iii6) have an exaggerated 
 idea of the value of their services, travellers are advised to come to an under- 
 standing with them before employing them. Their usual demand is $2 for 
 a trunk to hotel or residence. If there are several trunks, deliver the checks 
 to the hotel manager. The commercial section of the city is compact and 
 distances are short. 
 
 Arrival by Sea. Ocean-going ships drawing 33 ft. or less come up the 
 river and tie up at the Customs Wharf (Muelle Fiscal), 2 min. to the right 
 of the rly. station, and 5-10 min. from the chief hotels. The customs formal- 
 ities see p. 23) are prompt, courteous, and lenient. Many of the officers 
 speak English. Passenger Launches for riverine ports leave from and arrive 
 at the City Wharf. Consult the Steamship Agent and one’s Consul regard- 
 ing the formalities requisite before undertaking a voyage to another country. 
 
 Railways. Trains for Monterey, Laredo, San Luis Potosl. Mexico City, 
 etc., all leave from, and arrive at, the same station. Likewise those to and 
 from La Barra. The office of the Tampico-Panuco Railway ( Ferrocarril de 
 Tampico a Pdnuco ) is in the Calle de F. I. Madero No. 23. The line is 
 known locally as El Higo Route, and the station is just across the river. 
 Launch from the City Wharf. 
 
 Taxis (autotaximetros ) . Ford taxis, locally referred to as Fortingos (fohr- 
 teeng-ohs > are as common in Tampico as they are in most other Mexican 
 citic- They are cheaper than the larger cars (which usually charge about 
 double the Ford rate). Per hr., $3, h hr. or less, $1.50. Sundays and 
 feast days, $5 per hour. Special rates by the day, and for country trips. 
 For the latter, where the roads are not very good, the larger cars are more 
 comfortable. Compare the reference to Taxis at page 238. Cabs $2 per 
 hour; Sundays, $4. $1, and $2 per £ hour. 
 
 Tramways ( tranrlas ) of the Tampico Electric Light, Power and Traction 
 Ltd a British enterprise operating an excellent and dependable service) 
 run to nearly all parts of the Port and its immediate suburbs. The cars are 
 clean and are much used bv the Tampico residents. 
 
 Steamship Offices (oficinas de vapores). Ward Line (New York & Cuba 
 M Co. Calle Aurora No. 5. R. M. Boulet , Agent. Com- 
 
 panla Navlera Mexicana (Mexican Navigation Co.), Fernando /. Bar* 
 w t ncchea. Agent; Cades Rivera and Damas. 
 
 The Ward Line operates a regular and thoroughly excellent (deservedly 
 popular) fast service between Tampico and New York, calling at era Cruz, 
 Progreso in Yucatan), Havana (Cuba), and Nassau (Bahama Islands). 
 Fine, big. luxurious ships, with good food and perfect service. Their fre- 
 quent excursions (reduced rates) to Vera Cruz (thence to Mexico City’) 
 are much patronized. , , 
 
 The Campania Navlera Mexicana runs excellent ships (much liked by 
 foreigners) between Mexican coast ports, to New Orleans (good and fre- 
 quent service), as well as between many ports on the Pacific Ocean Both 
 lin^s are recommended. ^ „ „ , . . 
 
 Hotels (comn. p. xlvii). Imperial Hotel, cor. Calles Estado & Aiirora, in 
 the commercial centre. A huge, concrete, American style hotel, with good 
 rooms and baths, excellent service, and all the modern conveniences Amer- 
 ican management. Moderate rates. One of the best known and most 
 

 
General Information . 
 
 TAMPICO 
 
 11 Route. 50 a 
 
 popular hotels in the Republic. The upper rooms have the best outlook, 
 and those overlooking the Panuco get the cool breeze. Recommended. 
 
 The Southern Hotel , cor. Aduana and Comercio Sts. Good rooms and 
 good service at moderate rates. Widely (and favorably) known as the home 
 of the oil man and the commercial traveller. Modern, Comfortable, and 
 American in its appointments. Recommended. 
 
 Cafes and Restaurants. There are several in Tampico, but not all of 
 them come up to the American standard in food, cleanliness, etc. Perhaps 
 the best and most popular (with foreigners and residents alike) is the Cafe 
 Louisian, in the Calle Aduana No. 26, between Estado and Comercio Sts. 
 (two min. walk from the Imperial, and 1 min. from the Southern Hotel). 
 Clean, airy, screened. Good food, well and daintily served, at reasonable 
 prices. American ideas and management. Recommended. Others are La 
 Opera, Calle Comercio No. 78. — American Grocery, Aurora St. 
 
 Banks ( bancos ) where Travellers’ Checks, Letters of Credit, etc., may be 
 cashed, money exchanged, drafts drawn, etc. Tampico Banking Co., S. A., 
 cor. Aduana and Comercio Sts., in the Southern Hotel Bldg. For the ad- 
 dresses of other banks consult the local directory. 
 
 Post- and Telegraph-Offices, facing the Plaza de la Libertad. 
 
 Stores and Shops. The American stores (certain of them attractive) usu- 
 ally specialize in the articles liked by Americans and English-speaking 
 travellers; the native shops cater more to the Mexicans. Prices in the former 
 generally are reasonable and are fixed. Bargaining (distasteful to Ameri- 
 cans) is often necessary in the native establishments. 
 
 American Pharmacy. Drogueria Americana" La Huasteca,” S. A. (Ameri- 
 can Drugstore), cor. Aurora and Comercio Sts. American specialties of 
 many kinds: Soda Fountain; Ice cream; Luncheonette; American Candies, 
 Chocolates, Talking Machines and Records, and all those articles usually 
 for sale in a modern, up-to-date American drugstore — Photographic 
 Materials, Cameras (Kodaks, etc.), Films, Safety Razors and Blades; 
 Fountain Pens, etc. Prescriptions filled by certified American chemists. 
 Lederle’s Biologicals. Analytical Laboratory. 
 
 Mexican Souvenirs and Curios, American Typewriters and Supplies, 
 Adding Machines, Office equipment, Stationery, Fountain Pens, Safety 
 Razors and Blades, etc. at the Sonora News Co., Calle Aduana 18. 
 
 American Newspapers and Magazines, Guidebooks. Interpreters, Span- 
 ish methods and grammars; Mining and Stamp Laws, Civil, Commercial and 
 other Codes, Oil Regulations, etc., at the above address. 
 
 Cigars, Cigarettes, Tobacco, Pipes, Fishing-Tackle, Hunting Outfits, 
 etc., at the Sonora News Co., Calle Aduana 18. 
 
 Haberdashery. American Clothing, Hats, Shirts, Shoes, Trunks, Valises, 
 etc. El Regal, Calle de Comercio No. 80. 
 
 Maps and Plans of the Oil Fields, Oil Pools, Haciendas and others es- 
 sential for the location and development of Oil, Farming, etc. Republic, 
 State, Regional, and City Maps and Plans. Salt Water Maps. Drilling 
 Reports, etc., etc. Hitchman & Howard, S. en C ., Calle Rivera No. 32. 
 Widely and favorably known. Maps and Plans used by practically every 
 big oil interest in the Republic. 
 
 Insurance Companies: One of the largest and strongest in Latin America 
 is located in Tampico, the A. G. Mason Co. (A. G. Mason, C. C. Freston), 
 Southern Hotel Bldg., P. O. Box 141. Insures Travellers’ Baggage, Shio- 
 ments of every nature; anything, anywhere, stationary or in transit. Poli- 
 cies aggregating nearly $50,000,000. 
 
 General Importers of American Goods. General Machinery and Supply 
 Co., S. A. (/. B. Sutton, President and General Manager), Calle Rivera No. 
 27 . 
 
 Consuls ( consules ) representing many countries maintain Consulates 
 ( consulados ) in Tampico. See the local directory for addresses, which are 
 subject to change. 
 
 Local Newspapers. The Tampico Tribune, published weekly, in English. 
 The best American newspaper in the Republic. Publishing office Calle 
 Muelle No. 19. P. O. Box 612. There are a number of papers printed in 
 the vernacular. 
 
 Churches (iglesias). Roman Catholic Cathedral, Plaza de la Constitucion. 
 Mexican Evangelical Church , Calles Estado and Muelle. Baptist Ch., Calles 
 
506 Route 11. 
 
 TAMPICO 
 
 Descriptive . 
 
 Estado and Artesanos. American Sunday School, next to the Evangelical 
 Ch. Church (Catholic) of Our Lady of Mercy, in the Calle Estado. 
 
 Places of Amusement. Moving Pictures ( Cines , or Cmematografos ) 
 abound in Tampico, but the films are not always to the taste of Americans. 
 The best pictures can usually be seen in the Cine Alhambra, in the Calle 
 Comercio, between Muelle and Empresa Sts. 
 
 Bull Fights (Corridas de Toros), in the Plaza de Toros (Bull-ring) in the 
 Ave. de los Hombres Ilustres. Football ( balonpie ) at the Football Grounds, 
 Ave. Hombres Ilustres. Baseball at the same place. See the newspapers for 
 details. 
 
 Clubs (Clubs and Casinos). Colonial Club, Calle Aduana No. 20. Interna- 
 tional, with many American members. A card of admission, obtainable from 
 a member, entitles the recipient to the services of the club for a fortnight. 
 This may be extended for another two weeks upon payment of five' pesos. 
 — The British Club, Calle Muelle, between Comercio and F. I. Madero 
 Sts. At the Los Mangos Country Club, 4 M. to the N. of Tampico (f M. 
 from the Dona Cecilia Station on the Miramar Car Line) there are good 
 Golf Links and Tennis Courts. Cool Gulf breezes and fine views. 
 
 Young Men’s Christian Association (Asociacion Cristiana de Jdvenes), 
 Calle Muelle, 19. 
 
 American Chamber Of Commerce (Camara de Comercio Americano ), 
 Calle Aurora No. 24. Jack H. Hott, General Manager. 
 
 The Water Supply Of Tampico is inadequate to the fast growing city and 
 it is not always of the best. The safest plan is to boil it before drinking it. 
 Several local companies supply the hotels, restaurants and homes with an 
 electrically purified water. Many residents drink the beer brewed at Ori- 
 zaba, Vera Cruz, where the water is known to be pure. The Tampico reser- 
 voir (Depfisito de Agua) is situated on the heights of the Coloriia del Aguila. 
 
 Note: As the foregoing street numbers are apt to change, the traveller is 
 advised to consult the local directory when he is in doubt about the location 
 of an address wanted. 
 
 Tampico (pop. 100,000) chief commercial city (lat. 22°, long. 
 98°) of Northern Mexico (602 M. from Mexico City), in the 
 extraordinarily rich, semi-tropical State of Tamaulipas (p. 
 50.)), the most important riverine port in the Republic, a 
 celebrated winter resort and apparently destined to be one of 
 the premier cities of Spanish America, stands on the left bank 
 of the busy Phnuco River, 7 M. from its mouth at the Gulf of 
 Mexico, on the edge of one of the most productive agricultural 
 regions south of the Rio Grande, and in the midst of the 
 greatest oil-producing section of the world. It is a handsome, 
 upstanding, high-powered port, with an efficient Chamber of 
 Commerce, well-equipped, modern hotels, good schools, fine 
 parks, and the general attributes of a progressive American 
 metropolis. Variously known as the New York of Mexico, the 
 Sultana of the South, The Queen City of the Mexican Gulf, 
 capital of the Oil World, and as the most American city in the 
 world outside the United States, Tampico strikingly illustrates 
 what dynamic American energy coupled with brains and pur- 
 pose can accomplish in the warm and languid South. 
 
 While no place in Mexico seems more generously to repay 
 American enterprise, and certainly in no Mexican city is 
 American initiative and development displayed in such a 
 diversity of ways, Tampico’s phenomenal rise and progress is 
 not due solely to American push and foresight. It is a note- 
 worthy example of Nature’s inexplicable arbitrariness. To 
 
Descriptive . 
 
 TAMPICO 
 
 11. Route . 50 c 
 
 some localities she gives practically nothing — and seems to 
 resent their having that! Others she overwhelms with riches 
 and dazzles with her lavishness. Cosily nestling in a sunny 
 corner of one of the most opulent of the Mexican states, with 
 ‘an astonishingly fertile tropical country at her back, a sea of 
 golden oil beneath her feet, a sempiternal blue sky above and 
 a broad ocean teeming with fine fish at her very door, Tampico 
 possesses advantages greater than those of a half dozen other 
 Mexican cities combined. By monopolizing the river which 
 half encircles and guards it, Tampico succeeds in drawing 
 sustenance from two extraordinarily rich States, Tamaulipas 
 and Vera Cruz; each tropical, each rich in oil and forest prod- 
 ucts, and each practically undeveloped. 
 
 South of the Tropic of Cancer and thus on the edge of the 
 lower tropics, yet within four and one-half days’ ride in a 
 luxurious Pullman from New York City, Tampico is but 159 
 miles away from cool hill-stations on the Mexican plateau, 
 less than 20 leagues from broad forests where big game roams 
 at will, and practically astride a river which affords some of 
 the finest game fishing in the world. The broad lagoons which 
 stretch inland from the suburbs are the winter rendezvous of 
 plumed egrets, pink-winged flamingos, great blue herons, 
 shovellers, pintails, blue-winged and cinnamon teal, and such 
 a myriad wild-fowl, from Labrador geese to canvasback ducks, 
 that one tires of enumerating them. Enlivening the chaparral 
 which flank these quiet fluvial reaches are countless thousands 
 of song-birds which make this elysium the Mecca of their 
 southern flight. The range of this beautiful assemblage is 
 difficult to imagine, since it includes almost everything from 
 brilliant cockatoos and tropical hummingbirds, to the nightin- 
 gales and thrushes of our northern copses. Quail abound in 
 the environing meadows, and the occasional hunter finds the 
 region a sort of sportsman’s paradise. 
 
 Though cosmopolitan in a limited sense, Tampico is unlike 
 Mexico’s brilliant capital with its various Indian tribes and 
 its people from many nations. It is predominantly American. 
 The Mexicans whimsically refer to it as “Gringolandia” 
 (Gringoland), and say it is muy americanizado (very much 
 Americanized), since they observe American reminders on 
 every hand. The best American newspaper in the Republic, 
 the Tampico Tribune, is published here; the banks, hotels, 
 oil -terminals, refineries, pipelines, etc., are American, as like- 
 wise are the best shops and their managers. The railways 
 which radiate from the port were built by American capital, 
 the largest steamship line which connects the city with New 
 York is American, and the scores of huge, 80,000 bbl. oil-tanks 
 which dot the countryside came from the great factories of the 
 Chicago Bridge & Iron Works (which supplies tanks and 
 
50 d Route 11. TAMPICO Descriptive. 
 
 machinery to most of the great oil-fields in the Republic). The 
 tolerant and helpful Mexicans may not realize it, but they, 
 too, are algo americanizado , for they hustle with an alac- 
 rity and a purpose usually surprising to their southern 
 brethren. 
 
 The Mexican life, with its ineradicable charm, adds the 
 leaven that makes utilitarian Tampico wholly attractive. The 
 plazas, churches, markets, mam^ of the smaller shops, and the 
 greater portion of the older houses are Mexican, as is the bulk 
 of the population. Certain of the older Mexican business 
 houses are colonnaded, after the Moorish fashion, and these 
 open portals strongly recall Singapore, Bombay, and the East 
 Indies. The saucy blackbirds which haunt the flower-em- 
 bowered plazas, and the occasional palm which rises grace- 
 fully above the tiled roofs emphasize this resemblance. Excel- 
 lent military music is provided in the plazas after nightfall, 
 and at that time the Mexican social life in all its charm comes 
 out for an airing. 
 
 While Spanish is the official language in Tampico, the port 
 is essentially bi-lingual. Many of the Mexicans speak English 
 with a fluency not always excelled b}^ Spanish-speaking Ameri- 
 cans, but many of these speak Spanish with scholarly correct- 
 ness. The large foreign colony influences the standard of 
 living, which is more American than Mexican. American 
 money passes current with the Mexican, usually at about two 
 pesos for one American dollar. 
 
 The city occupies an almost ideal situation on a gently 
 sloping plain at the edge of a swift, busy river near which the 
 commercial houses cluster. Lagoons are features of this lower 
 level, which is intersected by canals that recall certain sections 
 of old Tokyo. Rising gradually toward the hinterland are 
 rounded hills, spread over the sunny slopes of which are the 
 several foreign colonies — the American predominating. From 
 the rolling summits of these hills, several hundred feet above 
 the sea and easily reached by auto and tram-cars, the eye ranges 
 over one of the grandest prospects in nature. On the western 
 skyline rise the Sierra Madres, girt with dark forests of brood- 
 ing pines, while long lines of shadowy hills stretch away in the 
 distance. To the E. and S., in brilliant blue contrast, sweeps 
 the mighty Gulf. Directly south, cutting the green landscape 
 like a silver streamer, winds the placid Pdnuco, and along its 
 bosom move stately ships bound inland or outward to many 
 ports of the Seven Seas. Unrolled from the base of the cliffs, 
 in a gay confusion of meadows, lagoons, shining Indian vil- 
 lages and flowering forests, lie the quiet reaches of the low- 
 lands, a floral, sunlit region of perfect delight, where winter is 
 unknown, where the valleys perpetually drowse beneath waves 
 of sempiternal sunshine, and where the softly pulsing current 
 of active human life is always in evidence. 
 
Climate. 
 
 TAMPICO 
 
 11. Route. 50e 
 
 After twilight when the myriad lights of the trans-P&nuco 
 flash out in the darkness and illuminate the region for miles, 
 the view from these colonial heights is beguiling. Star trails 
 that are almost as bright as moonbeams gleam up and down 
 the quiet bosom of the river, and occasionally a broad, bicker- 
 ing glare on the dusky horizon advertises millions of feet of 
 inflammable gas from some newly-brought-in well burning in 
 the night. 
 
 The Tampico folks are early risers. At 6 a.m. the streets 
 are animated, and at 8 o’clock business managers usually are 
 at their offices. 
 
 The city streets are well-aligned, clean, in many sections of 
 asphalt, flanked by well-built houses. The quaint old Palacio 
 Municipal overlooks the attractive Plaza de la Constitucion, 
 and dates from the early years of the present city. The Cathe- 
 dral (in course of construction) flanks this plaza on the 
 north. 
 
 History. Tampico, from the Huaxtecan words tam, place of, 
 and piko, dogs (at present a singular misnomer), is a survival 
 of the original Pueblo Viejo ( old town), an antiquated port 
 founded soon after the Spanish Conquest and still surviving 
 on the Vera Cruz side of the Panuco River. Like Vera Cruz 
 it was often made the objective point of those daring sea- 
 rovers who wished to “ singe the King of Spain’s beard,” and 
 it has been repeatedly sacked. Francis Drake , Laurent de 
 Gaff, Nicolas de Agramonte, John Hawkins and other corsairs 
 of the Spanish Main occasionally made it their port of call, 
 and many bepistoled buccaneers of these fighting worthies 
 were romantic visitors of the early days. Because of its ex- 
 cellent harbor facilities Tampico was occupied by American 
 soldiers and marines under General Winfield Scott in 1847, 
 during the Mexican War. In 1888 it was a nondescript town 
 with a population of 12,000. Its rapid rise from obscurity 
 began in 1901 when oil was discovered. 
 
 Climate. The temperature ranges from about 97° in summer 
 to 45° in the so-called winter. The hottest summer day is 
 tempered by a cooling sea breeze, the saving grace of the 
 region, and the lowest winter temperature is reached when 
 cold Northers ( Nortes , see Vera Cruz, p. 471) sweep down 
 from the Rocky Mts. and chill the thin blood of the port 
 dwellers. Americans from the frigid North find the alleged 
 winter weather delightful — a sort of New England June or 
 October climate. June and July in Tampico are apt to be hot 
 and dry, and it is then that the Tampiquenos remember that 
 165 miles away lies the great Central Plateau, with its tem- 
 perate climate and perennially cool nights. Rains are more 
 frequent on the coast than over the highlands, and the wet and 
 dry seasons are not so sharply defined as at Mexico City. 
 Though sub-tropical in character, the climate is far less trying 
 
50/ Route 11. TAMPICO The Pdnuco River. 
 
 than that of Vera Cruz and other similarly situated Gulf ports. 
 The annual average rainfall is about thirty-five inches. 
 
 The Environs of Tampico are unusually attractive. Flank- 
 ing the city on the E. and extending N. and S., is the wide 
 Laguna del Carpintero, linked to the Panuco by a winding 
 canal. The Colonia Americana overlooks this lagoon from 
 the W. To the E. of the lagoon, 4 miles distant, and connected 
 to the city by a*trollev line ( Los Tranvlas Electricos a Miramar ), 
 is the Playa de Miramar, an attractive bathing beach much 
 frequented by the Tampiquehos. In its outward course the 
 line flanks (right) the Pierce Oil Refinery, traverses the (non- 
 descript) native towns of Arbol Grande (big tree) and Doha 
 Cecilia , and crosses the grounds of the National Petroleum 
 Corporation and the Aguila Refinery before reaching Miramar 
 Beach. To the right of this is the popular seaside resort of 
 La Barra, so-called from its proximity to the sandbar which 
 lies athwart the entrance to the Panuco River. 
 
 To the W. of Tampico, on the slopes of the hills, lie the 
 Country Club, the Aguila, Alta Vista, Las Flores, Guadalupe 
 and other colonies. Stretching across the lowlands, almost as 
 far as the eye can see, extends the broad Laguna del Chairel, 
 with its wooded islands (Isla de la Pitahaya; Moralillo , etc.) 
 and its myriad wild fowl. The Tarnesi River enters the lagoon 
 from the N.-W., crosses it and merges with the Panuco (10 M. 
 from its mouth) just above the Moralillo inlet. The extensive 
 works of the Mexican Gulf Oil Co. lie beyond, and at this 
 point the steel bridge of the Short Line to Mexico City spans 
 the broad Pdnuco. Countryward, across a level country 
 flanked on the left bv the winding river, leads the road to the 
 Devil's Elbow, where (near the river’s edge) there is a group 
 of oil wells and where the traveller can usually see the operation 
 of drilling a well. Pipe-lines ( oleoductos ) intersect the country 
 like so many telephone wires and through them flow steady 
 streams of golden oil from the wells to the sea. 
 
 The Tamesl, or Tamcsln (a Huaxtecan word signifying ‘ place where 
 there are many alligators’ — caimanes or Jagartos) , rises in the Sierra 
 Mad res and for some distance from its source is called the Guayalejo. It 
 receives numerous affluents during its course, and flanks a number of 
 lagoons (lagun as) before passing through the Chairel to the Pdnuco. A 
 myriad wild fowl nest along its banks, and the lagoons through which it 
 passes provide inexhaustible sport for hunters. 
 
 The Panuco River (so-called from the name of an Indian 
 chief of the early days) was discovered by Hernandez de 
 Cdrdoba in 1516, nearly a century before Henry Hudson 
 explored the Hudson River to Albany. It rises in the Sierra 
 Madres and is the most important of the Vera Cruz rivers — 
 which state it separates from Tamaulipas. At its mouth, 
 where it empties into the Gulf of Mexico, it is 300 ft. wide, 
 
The Panuco River . 
 
 TAMPICO 
 
 11. Route. 50 g 
 
 but it broadens on its winding course inland to 1,500 ft. just 
 inside the estuary and 1,200 ft. at the Customs Wharf at 
 Tampico. A navigable channel 800 ft. wide and 33 ft. deep 
 extends to Tampico, then during the ensuing 7 M. it narrows 
 to 165 ft. Thence to (46 M.) Panuco , craft drawing 9 ft. or 
 less can go. The light-house ( farol ) which stands on the left 
 shore at the entrance to the river is of the 2d order with a light 
 visible 40 M. at sea. 
 
 The Panuco is the busiest of the Mexican rivers, since up- 
 ward of 2,000 American ships register at Tampico each year. 
 Tankers and other vessels from almost every important port 
 of the world come hither to carry away precious oil or the 
 exports for which the port is noted. Chief among these are 
 sarsaparilla, vegetable fibres, honey, hides and skins and 
 vanilla. Beside leading the world in oil shipments, Tampico 
 is a port of exit for large quantities of bar silver, lead, copper, 
 and zinc from mines in the interior of the Republic. 
 
 The river advertises the chief product of the region in various 
 ways. For miles along its southern shore extend the vast 
 properties of the greatest oil companies of the world. A dark 
 brown film of crude oil covers every stick and stone along the 
 river bank, while gurgling fluid oil pours from big pipes into 
 many a tanker anchored at the numerous landings. The 
 Producers Oil Corporation, the Freeport & Mexican Fuel Oil 
 Co., the Compama de Petrdleo La Corona, the Huasteca 
 Petroleum Co., the Mexican Fuel Oil Co., the New England 
 Fuel Oil Co., the Texas Co. of Mexico, the Transcontinental 
 Pet. Co., and many others extend along the Vera Cruz side of 
 the river, some of the properties resembling sizeable towns 
 complete within themselves. Pipe-lines come to them from 
 the oil-wells afield, and fleets of scows bring the valuable fluid 
 from the upper reaches of the river. The widely celebrated 
 Mexican Petroleum Co., known to Wall St. as the Mex-Pete, 
 has its headquarters at Ehano. This company, with the 
 Standard Oil Co. and the huge Mexican Gulf Oil Co. are the 
 largest in the Republic. (The big Agwi Co. is at Port Lobos.) 
 
 The Chijol Canal, a celebrated fluvial lane connecting 
 Tampico with Tuxpam (V. C.), leads out of the Panuco 3| M. 
 from its mouth, and extends southward through one of the 
 richest sections of the State of Vera Cruz. Projected 25 years 
 ago by General Porfirio Diaz and begun in 1901, this canal, 
 with a channel 6 ft. deep and 25 ft. wide, penetrates a prolific 
 oil region and materially minimizes the danger of lightering 
 cargo over the unstable Tuxpam bar. 
 
 Tuxpam or Tuxpan (Aztec, where rabbits abound ), about 90 M. S. of 
 Tampico, on the r. bank of the tortuous Tuxpam River, lies in the midst of 
 a productive oil region. A shallow bar at the mouth of the river prevents 
 bi=? ships from entering, so pipe-lines are carried out 2 M. at sea, anchored 
 to a buoy, and oil pumped into them at the rate of about 4,500 bbls. an 
 hour. The Penn- Mex. Fuel Oil Co. is located here. 
 
50 h Route 11. 
 
 TAMPICO 
 
 Fruits. 
 
 Five or six big ocean liners can lie alongside the Tampico 
 Customs Wharf (cost with the custom-house, $1,500,000) at 
 one time, while the river affords ample harbor space for scores 
 of others. Up country the river winds through a region so 
 beautiful that it is often referred to as the Tamaulipecan Eden. 
 Flowering trees alive with tropical birds, wild mangos, figs, 
 bananas and a host of other fruits are features of the verdurous 
 banks, along which stretch smiling haciendas, whence come 
 the milk and vegetables consumed in the port. Many pleasure 
 craft pulse along the quiet reaches of the stream, oh the 
 tranquil bosom of which scows ( chalanas , — lanchones in 
 Vera Cruz) laden with oil float down from the wells to the sea. 
 Many big fish from the Gulf are caught in the upper reaches 
 of the river, where the sportsman may find alligators in the 
 water and wild game in the forests. The big laguna on the 
 Vera Cruz side of the river, opposite Tampico, is the Laguna 
 del Pueblo Viejo. 
 
 Certain sections of the river country are noted for their fine 
 fruits, particularly grapefruit (so-called because it grows in 
 clusters, like grapes). This variety of pomelo ( Citrus decumana 
 — Spanish, toronja) would, were it not kept out of the United 
 States by unfavorable legislation, have a wide demand there, 
 as it is unusually juicy and delicious. As it is, the consumer 
 in Great Britain enjoys the fruit at a much lower price than 
 Americans pay for native grown fruit. — Pineapples {pirns), 
 lemons ( limones ), guavas ( gayabas ), oranges (; naranjas ), 
 sapodillas ( sapotes ), bananas ( pldtanos ), limes ( limns ), yellow, 
 red and purple plums ( ciruelas ), mammee-apples {mameyes), 
 alligator-pears (aguacalcs), pomegranates (granadas), and a 
 host of other fine fruits grow in the region roundabout. Melons 
 in great variety ripen throughout the year, while Tampico is 
 the largest market in the world for sarsaparilla. 
 
 Onions superior in quality to the finest Bermudas attain 
 perfection in the Tampico district, along with tobacco, sweet- 
 potatoes, beans, corn, and practically every vegetable produced 
 in any tropical or semi-tropical climate. The land on which 
 these comestibles grow can be bought from $2 to $10 an acre 
 (the latter price for improved land), and if the owner wishes 
 to have it produce hay he can get from one acre what he can 
 sell in Tampico for $40. 
 
 Cattle raising is one of the coming industries of the region. 
 The prevalent parra grass grows faster than alfalfa and is 
 superior as a food for beef cattle and dairy cows. Coffee equal 
 in quality to that of Brazil grows wild on the hill slopes of the 
 adjacent plateau, and sugar lands as productive as those of any 
 other country extend from Micos to the port. Cotton and rice 
 will be crops of the near future. Vanilla grows to better ad- 
 vantage south of the P&nuco, in the State of Vera Cruz. The 
 
Fishing and Hunting . TAMPICO 11. Route . 50 i 
 
 most productive region lies southeast of Tuxpam, between the 
 Nautla and the Tuxpam Rivers . 
 
 Vanilla (Spanish, vainilla, diminutive of vaina — Latin vagina, a sheath, 
 husk, pod) is indigenous to Mexico, where upward of 50,000 people are 
 employed in its cultivation. It belongs to the orchid family, is a robust 
 climber, and is one of about 60 species scattered through the tropics. It 
 grows wild in many places, and in such abundance that it perfumes the air 
 in the vicinity. It is assiduously cultivated in the Papantla and Misantla 
 districts, in the State of Vera Cruz, and it thrives best at an altitude of 
 about 1,000 ft. above sea level. The character of the soil (it grows best in a 
 rich, sandy soil, not too dry), the temperature, humidity, etc., influence the 
 quality and strength of the product. The valuable property of the bean 
 resides in a volatile oil which is developed by a slow process of curing involv- 
 ing fermentation. The extract has a peculiar agreeable odor and aromatic 
 taste. It has the medicinal property of an aromatic stimulant, with some 
 effect upon the nervous system. The white and red flowers are large, 
 abundant, and of delicious fragrance. The dark-brown pods are 6 to 9 
 inches long, and are filled with a dark oily odorous pulp. They are known 
 as vanilla beans, but not from the seeds, which are minute. They ripen in 
 Jan. and Feb. Most of the Mexico product goes to the United States. 
 
 Fishing and Hunting are the chief recreation of many of the 
 Americans in Tampico, and the former affords thrills not 
 usually experienced elsewhere. The nearby Gulf and the still 
 closer lagoons swarm with fish, best among them the stately 
 Tarpon ( sdbalo ), perhaps the finest of the American game 
 fishes and always to be found in the Panuco River . Not often 
 can one get wonderful fishing, relatively speaking, in one’s 
 own back yard, but such is the case in Tampico. Instead of 
 having to go out to sea in a small boat, with its consequent 
 discomforts, one can hire a launch at the Tampico wharf, and 
 a few hundred yards from shore and the hotel enjoy an experi- 
 ence one will long remember. A rod, a strong line, good muscles 
 and a sporting willingness to stick to a good thing when one 
 has hooked it, are all the traveller needs. The hotel manager 
 will aid the stranger to plan his expedition, and fishing tackle 
 can be bought at reasonable cost at several of the local shops. 
 
 The Tarpon, or Silver King ( Tarpon atlanticus ), finest of American game 
 fishes, a large species of the family Elopidce (subfamily Megalopinoe) , one 
 of the so-called big-eyed herrings, and a near relative of the Elops saurus, 
 is common in the warm waters of the Gulf and is known from Virginia to 
 Brazil. In certain sections it is called grande ecaille, from the size of the huge, 
 round, shining scales, which encase the body in an armor of glistening silver, 
 hence the name silver king. These scales ( escamas ) are often as large as a 
 silver peso, and they are used in making ornaments, and as miniature 
 postcards which travellers sometimes send through the mails as souvenirs. 
 The fish, which often attain a length of six feet and a weight of 200 lbs. or 
 more, spawn near the coast of Porto Rico and later frequent the bays of 
 Florida and the Mexican Gulf coast. The flesh is palatable, the fish is a 
 gamy and vicious fighter, and to land one with a rod and line is a sport in 
 which skill, strength and patience are required. Mullet or something similar 
 is used as bait. The moment the fish feels the hook in his mouth he makes 
 desperate rushes to dislodge it; leaping high in the air, shaking his head 
 violently, and not unfrequently falling into the boat — where he is never 
 welcome. Failing to cast the hook he leaps again and again, clearing the 
 water and presenting a thrilling spectacle in his mad frenzy as he whips to 
 and fro. An hour or more of exciting and exhaustive work is often required 
 to land a big fish. Hundreds are caught during the year, the best season be- 
 
50; Route 11. 
 
 TAMPICO Fishing and Hunting . 
 
 ing the cool months of Dec. and Jan. Tarpon are sometimes erroneously I 
 called Jewfish. The black Jewfish (Garrupa Nigrita ) of the Gulf belongs to 
 the seabass family ( Serranidae ) and is closely related to the groupers. Large 
 species of this Jewfish weigh sometimes as much as a thousand pounds. 
 
 The Yellow-tail (called by the natives, cur el, a word of 
 doubtful origin) or Amberfish (of the family Carangidoe and 
 genus Seriola ) are as common as tarpon in Tampico waters, 
 and afford almost equally exciting sport. Six or more species j > 
 of them inhabit the Gulf, the largest sometimes attaining a j ; 
 length of 4-5 ft. and a weight of a hundred pounds of more. 
 
 It is unexcelled as a fighter, and the fisherman who lands one I 
 deserves it. Red-snappers ( huachinango ), Tuna, Spanish 1 
 mackerel, Margate fish, Black Groupers, and Barracuda are u 
 but a few of the gamev fish one can find in the Gulf, while in ii 
 the lagoons back of Tampico haddock ( robalo ) and smaller >[ 
 fish exist in great variety. A popular fish is the Bugara, a 
 corruption of the Spanish mojarra ( Hypsurus caryi ), a hand- 1 
 some surf-fish easily caught. It is known locally as the high- J 
 brow because of its short, abrupt face (somewhat like that of J 
 the moon -fish). It resembles our white perch and is remarkable U 
 in that it is viviparous, 10 to 20 young being born at a litter. 
 
 Hunting. There is no closed season. A license (small fee) > 
 must be obtained from the local authorities. The hunter of ill 
 feathered game will find the various lagoons adjacent to Tam- 1 
 pico alive with ducks, geese, herons, and flamingos (called 1 
 cocos, by the natives), and the environing lowlands peopled jg 
 with quail, doves, and similar small game. Rabbits axe plenti- 1 
 ful, and wild turkeys are often met with. The foothills afford i 
 excellent sport. Here, within 3 hours by auto from the port, j| 
 the hunter can find wild-boar ( jahali or puerco del monte), I 
 raccoons ( coati ), deer ( venado ), badgers ( tejones ), mountain || 
 dogs (tepezcuincles) , hares ( liehres ), and armadillos . 
 
 The Tampico-Mexico City Short Line, a railway (The | 
 Pachuca and Tampico Railway Company) now being con- 31 
 structed by the Mexican Railway (p. 484) interests, will soon .« 
 bring Tampico within 12 hours of the capital. A similar air ji 
 line to Matamoros, opposite Brownsville, Texas, will materi- i 
 ally reduce the distance overland between Mexico City and | 
 New York, and will perhaps make Tampico the Port of Entry ' 
 for the Mexican capital. It is fast becoming such for all 1 
 northern Mexico, and a wholesale distributing point for many 
 cities in the interior of the Republic. 
 
 Tamaulipas and The Huaxteca. The State of Tamaulipas s 
 (so-called from one of the Indian tribes which formerly in- J 
 habited the region), one of the finest and most promising^of 
 all the sovereign states of Mexico, with a population of 287 ,951 , ; 
 an area of 84,393 square kilometers and a coast line (Gulf of 
 Mexico) of 400 kiloms., is bounded on the N. by the Rio 
 Grande (which separates it from the American State of Texas), 
 
LA HAUXTECA 
 
 11 Rte. 50 k 
 
 on the W. by Coahuila and Nuevo Le6n, on the S. by Vera 
 Cruz and San Luis Potosi, and on the E. by the Golfo de 
 Mejico. Prodigiously rich, extraordinarily fertile, and prac- 
 tically undeveloped, it is a region of magnificent mountain 
 scenery, dense fine-wood forests, picturesque valleys, — notable 
 among them Juamave , Rusias, and Santa Barbara — and 
 productive lowlands. While the coast in places is low and 
 sandy, the interior is semi-tropical, wildly beautiful, and 
 rugged where it merges with the foothills of the Great Central 
 Plateau. The hinterland is crossed by four sizeable rivers, 
 dotted with lakes and marshes — the breeding-place of a 
 myriad wild-fowl — diapered with alternating jungle, fair 
 reaches of waving sugar-cane, and rolling prairie, and flecked 
 with wild fruit trees in infinite variety. 
 
 The state is historically associated with that rich section 
 known as La Huaxteca (wahs-teh-cah), a name given by the 
 Toltecs (or the Aztecs) to that section of Mexico which to-day 
 forms a part of the states of Vera Cruz, Tamaulipas (tah- 
 mah-oo-lee-pahs), and San Luis Potosi, and which then was 
 the (perhaps) ancestral home of the Huaxteca Indians ( los 
 Huaxtecos, las Huaxtecas) who inhabited it. 
 
 It is thought to have come first into pre-Columbian history 
 about the year 1400, when the Acolhuas, or Tezcucans (whose 
 kingdom, prior to the Conquest, was situated at Tezcoco, in 
 the Vale of Anahuac) sent an expedition against Hauaxtecapdn 
 (as it was then known), with Chita (the capital, on the shore 
 of Lake Chairel, where Tampico now stands) as the objective 
 point. The Aztec Confederacy under Montezuma conquered 
 the region and forced the natives to pay an annual tribute. 
 
 Foreigners knew of it first when the region was discovered in 
 1516 by Hernandez de Cordoba , one of the Spanish conquista- 
 dor es. In 1518, Diego Velasquez , then Gobernador de Cuba , 
 sent Juan de Grijalva on an exploring expedition through the 
 Huaxtecan territory. He was repulsed by the natives. , Later 
 Francisco de Garay , Governor of Jamaica, sent Alonzo Alvarez 
 de Pineda to Chila, where he was killed. Another expedition 
 under Miguel Ruiz de Asis and a Captain Ramirez proving 
 unsuccessful, Garay came in person, at the head of a con- 
 siderable force. In 1522 when the bold Cortes had subjugated 
 the Valley of Mexico and was looking about for other regions 
 to conquer, word came to him of the Jamaica governor’s inten- 
 tions, so he sent Gonzalo de Sandoval and a company of his 
 Tlaxcalan allies to the disputed region. When Garay reached 
 La Barra in 1523 he found Cortes ’ men so well intrenched that 
 he relinquished his idea of conquest. The provincia de Panuco 
 was founded, with Tampico el Viejo as its capital, and Nuno 
 de Guzman as its first governor. His cruelty to the Indians 
 provoked a rebellion which endured for 250 years and which 
 the Spaniards were never able entirely to subdue. The Span- 
 
50 1 Rte. 11. STATE OF TAMAULIPAS 
 
 iards called the district Nuevo Santander , in perpetual remem- 
 brance of the septentrional province of that name in Spain. 
 During the viceregal period the Conde de Revillagigedo materi- 
 ally improved conditions in the new province, but it was not 
 until 1824, after the Mexicans had thrown off the Spanish 
 yoke, that Tamaulipas was made uno de los estados lihres y 
 sober nanos de la Federation Mexican a (a free and sovereign 
 state of the Mexican Federation). The first Constitution of 
 the state was promulgated in 1825. One of the picturesque 
 episodes in its modern history was the Apache and Comanche 
 raid of 1840. 
 
 A. number of ancient ruins antedating the Spanish Conquest 
 dot the state, notably in the Sierra de la Palma, near the Mt. 
 called Mirador , in the municipalidad of Altamira. In 1906 an 
 exploring party sent out by the Smithsonian Institution un- 
 earthed some sculptured pyramids, many specimens of pot- 
 tery incised with hieroglyphics, and various objects of domes- 
 tic use, — jewelry, etc. 
 
 The material wealth of the state is practically undeveloped. 
 Gold, silver, iron, copper, marble, asphalt and salt exist, while 
 the production of mineral oil is prodigious. The forests contain 
 many fine cabinet woods, and in certain districts it is not 
 unusual to find plantation railways using mahogany ties. 
 Interspersed with the almost countless trees which crowd the 
 wooded sections are groves of lemon, guava, zapota, and a 
 host of other fine fruit trees. Palms are nearly always con- 
 spicuous in the landscape. Plants are legion in their variety, 
 and the floral beauties of the state embrace almost eve^thing 
 from violets to orchids. Frequent rains and an ardent sun 
 make of certain sections of this favored locality Hesperidian 
 gardens almost as fair as those of the ancients. 
 
 To the homeseeker who toils on an arid ranch in our bound- 
 less West, this favored region with its golden fruits and yet 
 more golden sunshine would seem like a veritable elysian 
 field. Stock raising is a thriving industry, and there are many 
 cattle ranchos in the state. A fabulous amount of petroleum 
 has been drawn from the subsoil of the state, and the pos- 
 sibilities seem limitless. 
 
 Oil Development (see p. 50???,) is rapidly increasing land 
 values. Fruits and other ranchos are being opened up by 
 American colonists. 
 
 The chief towns of Tamaulipas, after Tampico , are Nuevo 
 Laredo (p. 3), and Ciudad Victoria (p. 11), the capital. The 
 small town of Padilla is celebrated as the spot where the 
 unfortunate Agustln de Iturbide , Mexico’s first emperor after 
 the War for Independence, was shot July 19, 1824. — - The 
 bar of the Rio Soto la Marina is the place where the Spaniards 
 under Francisco Javier Mina disembarked April 15, 1817, 
 to fight with the oppressed Mexicans. Mina's name is en- 
 shrined among those of Mexican heroes. 
 
Oil Development. TAMPICO AND TAMAULIPAS 50m 
 
 Oil Development. Petroleum (Lat. petra, rock; oleum , oil), 
 the naphtha of the Persians, Greeks, and Romans, the pctrdleo 
 of the Spaniards, and the chapopote (sticky incense) of the 
 Aztecs, has been known in Mexico since pre-Columbian times. 
 Bernardino de Sahagun (1499-1590), a Franciscan friar and 
 historian, writing of the Spanish Conquest, mentions having 
 seen chapopote for sale in the old paridn , or market-place, in 
 the Aztec capital, and he says that in Montezuma's time it 
 was mixed with pungent, aromatic herbs and used as incense 
 before the Aztec idols. To-day this term is in general use 
 among the natives of the Gulf Coast region to mean crude 
 oil, asphalt, bitumen, and the heavy oils found around the 
 ‘ ojos de chapopote ,' or chapopoteras, or oil-springs, or seepages 
 common in many sections of semi-tropical and tropical Mexico. 
 In addition to being used as incense on Indian altars, it has 
 long been employed in Mexico in the making of certain crude 
 varnishes, lacquers, etc. The first effort to obtain it for 
 lubricating purposes is believed to have been made by a 
 Mexican company in 1864, at Cubas (now Furbero). After 
 drilling less than 100 ft. the hole was abandoned. In 1883 
 Sr. Simon Sarlat, Governor of Tabasco State, caused several 
 wells to be drilled in the Macuspana District (of that state), 
 but the results were unsatisfactory. Small quantities of high 
 grade oil were secured but not in sufficient volume to make 
 the enterprise a commercial success. In 1900 another Mexican 
 company began operations near Tulapilla and Comaltepec , in 
 the Canton of Papantla, State of Vera Cruz, but after they 
 had turned their contracts over to an English company the 
 venture was abandoned (in 1904). 
 
 The present oil industry in Mexico dates from 1901. In 
 that year the Mexican president was empowered to grant 
 concessions to seekers of oil and gas on lands under the Federal 
 jurisdiction; a stipulation being that pools discovered and 
 capable of producing 2,000 liters (500 gals.) of oil or 20,000 
 liters of gas a day entitled the discoverer to a patent exempt- 
 ing him from export taxes on the natural or refined product, 
 free importation, for one time, of machinery, pipes, tanks, 
 etc., for the development of the property, and freedom from 
 Federal taxes (excepting the Stamp Tax) on the invested 
 capital for ten years. In addition the first discoverer of pe- 
 troleum in the territories of Tepic and Lower California would 
 receive the exclusive right to drill wells within a maximum 
 distance of 3 kiloms. around the first well, provided each 
 well produced at least 2,000 liters of oil daily. 
 
 Pursuant to the foregoing, the Mexican Petroleum Co. 
 began operations (in the same year) at Ebano. To date up- 
 ward of 60 wells have been driven in the region, and 24 million 
 bbls. of oil have been produced. From the 10,345 bbls. ex- 
 ported in 1901 the figures have grown to the staggering total 
 of more than 200 million bbls. Production is on the increase. 
 
50 n TAMPICO AND TAMAULIPAS Oil Development I 
 
 In 1906 rights were granted by Mexico to S. Pearson & i: 
 Son, Ltd., to explore for and develop oil pools located in the 
 States of Chiapas, Campeche, Vera Cruz, the Valle district 
 of San Luis Potosi, and the S. district of Tamaulipas. Oil 
 was soon discovered on the Isthmus of Tehuantepec and in | 
 Tabasco, then in other districts. To date the Pearsons’ inter- f 
 ests (now the Compama Mexicana de Petroleo ‘El Aguila ’) I 
 have drawn approximately 4 million bbls. of oil from their 
 wells. 
 
 On July 4, 1908, occurred the first great catastrophe in the oil industry 
 in Mexico. The Aguila Co.’s Dos Bocas No. 3 well, with an estimated daily I! 
 production of 100,000 bbls., came in suddenly and unexpectedly, and the 
 enormous gas pressure wrecked the derrick, blew the casing out of the hole j| 
 and formed a huge crater around it. The oil caught fire and all efforts to j 
 extinguish it failed. It burned until Aug. 30th, of the same year; then, the 
 oil being exhausted, the well spouted salt water. To-day this great, lost 
 fortune is represented by a crater several hundred feet in diameter, from 
 which hot salt and sulphur water flows constantly into the Mexican Gulf. ! 
 
 In 1907-08 the Aguila Co. and the Huasteca Petroleum Co, 
 began drilling at Potrero del Llano and Juan Casiano, and 
 during the latter part of 1910 the H. P. Co. completed (at 
 Juan Casiano) the first commercially productive wells in the 
 S. District of the Mexican Fields. On Dec. 27, 1910, the 
 Aguila Co. brought in Potrero del Llano well No. 4, the first 
 big well after Dos Bocas No. 3. It broke loose when it came 
 in and flowed wild for more than a month before it could be 
 successfully closed in. During the time it ran wild it is believed 
 to have discharged upward of 110,000 bbls. of oil a day. 
 
 In Feb., 1910, the East Coast Oil Co. began drilling opera- 
 tions in what is now known the world over as the Panuco 
 Field . In March of the same year they began work in the 
 Topila Field; opening up the present Topila-Pdnuco Field , 
 or the heavy oil district of Mexico. 
 
 In 1913 the Penn-Mex. Fuel Co. began successful explora- 
 tion work on their Alamo property on the S. bank of the 
 Tuxpam River , 30 kiloms. W. of the town of Tuxpam . At the 
 end of 1921 their wells had produced approximately 37,500,000 
 bbls. of oil. 
 
 The next discovery of importance was made by the Aguila 
 Co., during Aug., 1914, at their Los Naranjos No. 4 well, in 
 northern Amatldn . This was the first well opened in the Los 
 Naranjos Pool — the pool which proved so prolific during 
 1920-21. 
 
 During 1915 the Huasteca Petroleum Co. worked on their 
 Cerro Azul property, and on Feb. 10, 1916, brought in 
 Well No. 4, reputed to have had the astounding initial pro- 
 duction of 260,000 bbls. daily. This was the discovery well 
 of the Cerro Azul-Toteco pool, one of the most prolific of all 
 the pools in the S. or light oil district of Mexico. Since the 
 discovery of the Dos Bocas (two mouths) well the Southern 
 
Oil Development . TAMPICO AND TAMAULIPAS 5Gv 
 
 District has been extended further southward by the discovery 
 of the following pools in the order given: Juan Casiano- 
 Tepetate } Los Naranjos , Central Amatldn, Zacamixtle, Cerro 
 Azul-Toteco, Potrero del Llano- Alazan, Cerro Viejo , Tierra 
 Blanca, and Alamo. Numerous ‘ wild-cat 3 wells (wells driven 
 at random, in obedience to a ‘ hunch ’ or a hope) have been 
 drilled in various parts of the States of Tamaulipas, San Luis 
 Potosi and Vera Cruz, to test out areas thought to be favorable, 
 but none of them have indicated production at any great 
 distance from productive areas in the Southern District, the 
 Pdnuco-Topila Field, Ebano, Furbero, the Isthmus of Tehuan- 
 tepec, and Tabasco . 
 
 There are at present upward of 15 pipe-line companies in 
 the Republic with a total daily pumping capacity of about 
 1,063,000 bbls. The maximum capacity for the transportation 
 of oil (pipe-lines and barges) from the Tampico fields to tide- 
 water is about 1,200,000 bbls. daily. The exportation of oil 
 usually is done by the parent, or holding, companies of the 
 companies operating in the Republic. As the majority of 
 these are American, the bulk of the oil exported goes to the 
 U. S. A. Other great consumers are England, France, Holland, 
 Germany, South America, etc. When the oil reaches tide- 
 water it is stored in steel 1 * tanks until it is exported or refined. 
 At the beginning of 1922 there was a total tankage of 25,500,000 
 bbls. in the Republic at tidewater and in the various fields and 
 pipe-lines. 
 
 Taxes on Oil. In 1912 a tax of 60 centavos per metric ton 
 was levied on all oil exported. This tax was modified on several 
 occasions and was in effect until April, 1917, when a special 
 Stamp Tax was decreed (by President Carranza), levying ten 
 per cent of the net ton value on all crude oil and its derivatives 
 produced in the country and destined for exportation; this 
 net ton value to be established bi-monthly by the Sec. of the 
 Treasury, based upon the market value of Mexican crude on 
 the New York market. The New Constitution, of Feb. 5th, 
 arrogated (Article 27) to the Gov’t all minerals and hydrocar- 
 bons existing in the subsoil of the Republic. This measure 
 
 1 The field storage tanks in which the oil is confined, and which are such 
 conspicuous figures in the landscape around Tampico, are customarily of 
 55,000 and 80,000 barrels capacity, and were designed and constructed by 
 the Chicago Bridge and Iron Works, of Chicago, Ills., a huge corporation 
 which supplies much of the oil well appliances used in the Mexican Fields. 
 To withstand the enormous pressure of so much oil confined in a small space, 
 the steel used is of extraordinary toughness and strength. While the ordi- 
 nary 55,000 barrel tank is built of six courses or circumferential rings 
 high, the newer tanks, called the Horton 5ring55, attain the same capacity 
 with a five ring course. By an ingenious arrangement the capacity of the 
 tank can be enlarged by adding additional rings to the bottom of the 
 
 5ring55 tank. — The earthen embankment which encircles most of the 
 tanks seen in the fields collects any oil that might boil over from a tank on 
 
 fire and thus localizes the disaster. 
 
50 p DRILLING FOR OIL Oil Wells. 
 
 gave rise to considerable friction between operators and the 
 Gov’t, until it was satisfactorily adjusted. 
 
 The origin of oil is in doubt. Some believe that the oil ‘ sand’ 
 in which it is often found was once the bottom of a sea of ge- 
 ologic antiquity and that the oil is the residue of the life matter 
 of that ancient ocean. Petroleum in Mexico is not generally 
 found in sands, but in pores and crevices of a massive limestone 
 known as Tamasopo limestone, from the locality where the 
 first outcroppings were noted, near Tamasopo , in the State 
 of San Luis Potosi. 
 
 Theoretically the search for oil pools in Mexico differs but 
 slightly from the accepted practice in other lands, but actually 
 one works under far greater difficulties. The anticlinal uplifts, 
 or stratified domes under which the pools usually lie are first 
 located, then, as far as is possible to determine, the probable 
 depth at which the oil may be is estimated. Owing to the 
 tropical nature of the oil-producing region, the greater part of 
 it is covered with an almost impenetrable blanket of jungle 
 undergrowth, or monte , and in his efforts to locate favorable 
 sites the geologist or explorer usually has to rough it in a 
 sparsely settled country, sometimes impassable without the 
 use of a machete , and infested with a myriad biting, stinging 
 insects and reptilia. 
 
 The seepages, or oil-springs, or chapopoteras scattered over 
 the greater portion of the oil-producing territory of the Gulf 
 Coast region, and in other countries, diligently sought by 
 geologists as indications of oil in the immediate vicinity, are 
 misleading in Mexico, since they are not always ‘ spotters’ for 
 oil pools. Numerous wells driven near seepages have shown 
 that the latter are indeed indications but not necessarily of 
 oil near by. They may ooze for miles through the stratified 
 rock, and puzzle the geologist to locate their source. Of the 
 various methods for locating subsidiary pools, the best has 
 been found to be that of projecting lines from one pool to 
 another probable one, through the medium of sub-surface 
 study of existing pools. A producing well is referred to as 
 un pozo productivo ; a gusher as unbrotante. 
 
 The Drilling of Wells begins after the geologist has located 
 what he believes is a favorable spot. An 80-foot derrick is 
 erected and a heavy bit is dropped from the top. Where it 
 sticks in the ground the well is ‘ spudded in,’ i.e.: started with 
 the aid of ropes, a drill, a bull-wheel or a working-beam outfit 
 known as the Standard. If the well is a ‘wild cat’ or at a 
 distance from any producing field, Standard tools are always 
 used, since by this method one can study the formation of the 
 well as it goes down. This cannot be done with Rotary tools. 
 Nor can a very deep well be completed with a Rotary outfit. 
 
 If the well is drilled in a proved field, where the formation 
 and the depth at which oil will be encountered (usually between 
 
•oa Wells. 
 
 DRILLING FOR OIL 1 
 
 50? 
 
 1,500 and 2,500 feet) are known, it is begun with Rotary tools 
 and completed with the more manageable Standard tools — 
 huge bits or drills which are lifted and dropped until they 
 force their way to the top of the pay (the stratum of lime- 
 stone beneath which the oil lies). 
 
 When the well is being drilled ( taladrado , or perforado) it is 
 the custom to set from 150 to 200 ft. of 15J inch casing 
 ( tuberia ) at the top without cementing it. A favorable seat is 
 then sought for the 12^ inch casing, usually between 500 
 and 1,000 feet down. This tubing is cemented in position with 
 about 25 sacks of cement, and allowed to set five days before 
 drilling is resumed. After that 10 inch (8| inch is used in 
 the Topila and Panuco Fields) casing is cemented in with 
 100 bags of cement or more, and allowed to set the 10 days 
 required by law. This cement is poured in at the top and when 
 it reaches the bottom it is forced up around the casing, between 
 it and the surrounding earth, by means of high pressure pumps. 
 It must be firmly set so that it will not be blown out by the 
 high gas pressure when the well is finally closed in. And the 
 more firmly it “freezes” the more difficult it is to withdraw 
 it if the well proves to be a dry hole. After the cement has set 
 it is tested by a government inspector, who puts a valve on 
 top of the casing and pumps water into it under a pressure of 
 about 700 lbs. to the square inch. If the casing holds under 
 this pressure, drilling is resumed. 
 
 When the drill gets down to pay, before the well is finally 
 drilled in 8\ inch casing is set in position and cemented. 
 Sometimes drilling is continued with the Rotary as far as it is 
 considered safe, but the usual custom is to change over while 
 the cement is setting at the bottom and drill thence to com- 
 pletion with the Standard outfit tools. 
 
 If the well proves to be a dry hole (un seed), and no oil is 
 found, it is called a duster. As it takes weeks of sustained work 
 and costs upward of $50,000 U. S. money to drill an average 
 well, a duster is a painful reward which no one hopes for. 
 Sometimes a portion of the tubing can be recovered, but usu- 
 ally it is a total loss. 
 
 The Standard Method is popular in Mexico and is based on the theory of 
 percussion caused by the continuous dropping of a set of steel tools (known 
 as a string) suspended from a walking-beam by means of a cable. This string 
 consists of a drilling bit, jars, stems, and rope-sockets, the whole measuring 
 appro imately 45 ft. in length, and when ready for use weighing from l| 
 to 2 tons. The diameter of the drilling-bits most in use is from 6i to 
 12i inches; the larger and heavier sizes are used when beginning the well, 
 and smaller ones as it descends. 
 
 Water is put in the well and the tailings from the bit action are brought 
 to the surface by means of a bailer, which resembles a joint of pipe with a 
 valve in the bottom. As the drill goes down, steel pipe, or casing, is in- 
 serted, joint by joint (decreasing in diameter toward the bottom) until the 
 desired amount is in position; it is screwed together, and much of it is lost 
 if the well proves a duster. The greater ease with which the Standard set 
 of tools can be withdrawn from the well upon penetrating the oil-bearing 
 trata makes them popular with drillers. 
 
50 r 
 
 TAMPICO OIL WELLS Burning Wells. | 
 
 The Rotary Method is based on hydraulics, the well being drilled by the 
 turning of a bit, called a fish-tail, from its shape, attached to the end of a 
 string of heavy pipe known as the drill stem. This stem is gripped by a \\ 
 device attached to a geared turn-table at the surface level. A mixture of j] 
 mud and water is forced through this drill-stem under heavy pressure, pass- fl 
 ing through two small holes in the fish-tail bit to the open hole, where it 
 comes in contact with the bit tailings. These then rise to the surface of the N 
 ground outside of the drill-stem. The mixture is then again forced into the 
 drill-stem. It acts as a sort of cement and prevents the hole from caving in ] 
 after the drill has passed. Where earth formations are soft the Rotary [j 
 method is rapid and efficient; it is economical in that it reduces the amount 1 
 of casing required. 
 
 To close the well after it comes in, a gate-valve big enough 
 to allow of the passage of the drilling-tools is placed on top of l 
 the cemented casing and securely anchored. When the well is 
 completed, and oil is struck, with the tools out of the valve, | 
 this is closed and the well is brought under control. Connec- 
 tions are then attached that will permit the oil to flow into 
 tanks, whence it is pumped or floated to tidewater for refining j 
 or exportation. A big gusher usually is not permitted to flow i 
 unrestrainedly, for fear of damage to the well, so customarily ! 
 it is choked down or u pinched” to a few thousand barrels a j 
 day. 
 
 When a big well of the Southern District blows in it usually 
 produces considerable excitement. The tools and the drilling 
 line weighing 2 tons or more come roaring and rattling out of 
 the hole as if Satan and all his Imps were after them; the un- 
 thinkable pressure of the gas and oil hurtling them high above 
 the derrick, the stream of oil mushrooming and wrecking this 
 as if it were made of toothpicks. At the top of this derrick is a 
 steel block which holds the drilling-lines and pulleys, and if the I 
 up-rushing tools are blown against this block, and a spark is 
 struck from it. the well is set on fire. The spectacle of extin- 
 guishing this fire, which may burn for weeks and consume 
 hundreds of thousands of barrels of valuable oil or millions of 
 feet of gas, is one never to be forgotten. The men work like 
 the demons they resemble as, stripped to the waist, covered 
 with viscous, slippery oil which half blinds them, singed and 
 blistered, they fight until they drop exhausted. The heat is 
 unbearable, and to get near enough to the shut-off valve to be 
 able to manipulate it, the men carry metal shields and are 
 drenched constantly by water from a big hose turned on them. 
 
 Other difficulties sometimes are encountered. When well 
 No. 4 of the Toteco Field came in on Sept. 13, 1921, at a depth 
 of 1,885 feet, the tools, in coming out, stuck fast in the 81 
 inch casing about 500 feet from the bottom. An attempt to 
 pull these tools out brought them to the top of the well 
 where they wedged tightly with the steel drilling cable in the 
 control valve, making it impossible to close it. It was flowing 
 at the rate of 5,000 bbls. a day, and this hard stream, with the 
 thousands of feet of choking gas, made work at the top of the 
 
CIUDAD JUAREZ TO NUEVAS CASAS GRANDES 51 
 
 utmost difficulty. Between Sept. 13th and Oct. 12th, on 
 which date the well was brought under control, every con- 
 ceivable scheme known to the operators was employed. Their 
 genius eventually won, but not before oil estimated at between 
 seven and eight hundred thousand barrels had been lost. 
 
 Pumping is not usually resorted to in the Mexico fields. 
 When the oil in a pool is exhausted, salt water ( agua salada ) 
 : s forced out and the well is regarded as dead or finished, — 
 albeit sometimes such wells produce again in small quantities. 
 
 The student interested in petroleum may consult: A Treatise on Pe- 
 troleum, by Sir Boverton Redwood , Bart., D.Sc., F.R.S.E. ( Charles Grif- 
 fin &Co., London). — American Petroleum Industry, by Bacon & Hammer 
 ( McGraw-Hill Book Co., New York). — Oil and Gas Production, by Johnson 
 & Huntley ( John Wiley & Sons, New York). — -Mexican Oil Fields, by 
 L.G. and Stirling Huntley (Mining and Metallurgy, Sept. 1921, page 27). — 
 Petroleum Laws of America, by J. W. Thompson (Bulletin 206, U. S. Bureau 
 of Mines). 
 
 The author is indebted for certain of the foregoing information to Mr. 
 C. W. Hamilton and Mr. S. A. Grogan, of the Mexican Gulf Oil Co., Tam- 
 pico; Mr. G. C. Smith, of the International Petroleum Co., Tampico; 
 Mr. I. B. Sutton, of the General Machinery & Supply Co., Tampico; Mr. 
 Jack H. Hott, General Manager of the American Chamber of Commerce, 
 of Tampico; Mr. Lee Shippey, Publicity Director of the same organization, 
 and Mr. Jack D. H ickerson, Vice Consul de Carri6re, in charge of the 
 American Consular Service, at Tampico. 
 
 12. From Ciudad Juarez (El Paso ) to Nuevas 
 Casas Grandes. 
 
 MEXICO NORTH-WESTERN R. R. (F. C. Nor-Oeste de Mex.) 
 
 250 K. (156 M.). For time of arrival and departure of trains, fares, etc.* 
 consult the Rly. Co.’s folder. Trains arrive and leave from the Mexico 
 North-Western Railway Station, about 500 yards W. of that of the National 
 Railways of Mexico. 
 
 Ciudad Juarez, p. 23. The line parallels that of the Nat. 
 Rlys. to 22 K. Mesa , then it branches off and trends toward 
 the S.-W., crossing a fine agricultural and grazing country. 
 The region was once the habitat of many wild mustangs. The 
 mountains which cut the northern sky-line are said to contain 
 gold. The nopal and other cacti, with which the country is 
 liberally sprinkled, are described at p. lxxxi. The gradient 
 begins to slope upward almost as soon as we leave C. Juarez 
 and it continues upward until 240 K. Nuevas Casas Grandes 
 (see p. 54), 5,200 ft. above the sea-level, is reached. At 125 
 K. Guzman the rails sweep due south, but turn westward again 
 at 183 K. San Pedro Junction , from which point a short branch 
 line runs northward to the celebrated mining region of San 
 Pedro. To the far r. of this point, near 155 K. Sabinal, on our 
 own line, is the equally famous mining region of Sabinal. 
 From S. Pedro Jet. onward to the present terminus of the 
 riy. near the Sierra Madre foothills the direction is S.-W. It 
 
52 CIUDAD JUAREZ TO XUEVAS CASAS GRAXDES 
 
 is the intention to extend the road across the mountains to 
 the Pacific Ocean. 
 
 The region which has but recently been penetrated by the 
 Mexico North-Western R. R. ( F . C. Nor-Oeste) is still known 
 to but comparatively a few, but it is indubitably destined to 
 become widely known; alike to the tourist, the prospector, 
 the hunter, farmer and capitalist. Its natural and almost 
 wholly undeveloped resources are little short of phenomenal. 
 Hundreds of square miles of virgin timber-land clothe the un- 
 peopled slopes of the mountains ; gold, silver, and other min- 
 erals lie almost upon the surface of the land, the broad prairie 
 reaches and the flower-decked woodlands have been called 
 the “greatest natural game preserve on the American con- 
 tinent,” and the climate is one of almost matchless benignity. 
 The Tarahumare Indians, whose range is along the western 
 border of the district, often live to be a hundred or more, and 
 they are celebrated throughout Mexico for their longevity and 
 their amazing feats of endurance (comp. p. 57). The atmo- 
 sphere is of a purity perhaps undreamed-of in modern towns 
 and cities. The superb warm days and the cool, sleepful nights 
 will, perchance, in the years to come, restore health to many 
 a tired worker who will seek this place as one of the few 
 remaining where Mother Nature still holds sway. It is a prim- 
 itive region, but primitiveness is somehow inseparably associ- 
 ated with virility, and the spirit of this is unbounded and 
 everywhere apparent in the Sierra Madre country. Bitter cold 
 is unknown, and albeit the higher reaches of the mountains 
 are sometimes bathed in a keen cold air, these are spots which 
 the average settler is not likely to seek. The so-called winter 
 is like May or October in New England, but with an absence 
 of bleak days and a preponderance of sunshine and winsome 
 blue skies. Flowers in almost endless variety bloom through- 
 out the year, and the exceptionally fertile soil of the region con- 
 tiguous to Casas Grandes produces a myriad fine fruits which 
 seem to bloom and mature perennially. The Mormons of Utah 
 were among the first to see the advantages of the region, and 
 th eColoniaDublan, C. Juarez and other settlements in the Casas 
 Grandes district, though founded less than three decades ago, 
 are perhaps the richest and most promising in the Republic. 
 
 The Casas Grandes themselves (described at p. 54) are the 
 crumbling remains of a city which existed here perhaps a 
 thousand years ago, and they are of never-failing interest to 
 the antiquary interested in the history of the first Americans. 
 
 “The Sierra Madre in the late summer and autumn is the most beauti- 
 ful region imaginable. The rainy season has forced the growing things 
 through their spring-time and flower-time in the short space of two 
 months. The real spring in these mountains is in the months of July and 
 early August, then comes the short summer, and when September is 
 gone it is autumn. But what a wealth of wonderful things nature spreads 
 forth in those few short months! Flowers, a thousand kinds, some of the 
 
HUNTING IN THE SIERRA MADRES 53 
 
 northern woods, some of the warm southland, and some of the tropics — 
 all blooming together and crowding one another for breathing space. 
 Colors that overwhelm; so gorgeous, so dainty, so pure, so brilliant are 
 they that they dominate the world as one sees it then. The oaks will 
 show the ruddiness of youth and the deep green of the mature leaf at the 
 same time. The now reddening maples send their winged messengers 
 afar, while at their feet tiny young shoots are bravely making their way 
 toward the source of their life. 
 
 “The sky is cloudless. The sun shines warmly. The air is crisp and 
 dry and cool. The nights are frosty and the days friendly. The stars 
 shine so brightly at night that they cast shadows. The air is a tonic, a 
 healing and refreshing draught. The springs are sweet and the busy 
 streams — many and clear — sing soothingly. Then it is that the game 
 is at its best. Then it is that the tired city worker should leave his cares 
 behind, and with pack and gun go into the wilderness to woo back his 
 soul. The Sierra Madre has a warm heart, whose beat will instil new life 
 and vigor in him who seeks his happiness there.” 
 
 Hunting (comp. p. lxxvii). Game abounds in the Sierra 
 Madre region, and so few hunters have thus far penetrated 
 beyond the foothills that the majority of the wild creatures 
 which have here perpetuated their kind for mayhap unnum- 
 bered centuries are far too guileless for their own preserva- 
 tion. The game-infested district is so extensive that almost 
 every hunter who reaches it can count upon a “reservation” 
 for himself alone. The game laws are so liberal that one need 
 scarcely have any concern about them : all the owners of the 
 land ask of the hunter is that he will not wantonly destroy 
 the game. Chief among the animals to be met with in the 
 higher reaches of the Sierra is the terrible grizzly of the Rockies 
 ( Ursus horribilis), “Old Ephraim himself,” who is here prac- 
 tically unhunted, and who, because of the uncommon healthful- 
 ness of his habitat, is possessed of a vitality even more amazing 
 than that of his brother beyond the Rio Grande. That sturdy 
 fighter the jaunty “silver-tip” comes next, and following him 
 in the downward scale are several varieties of brown bear, 
 the panther, lynx, civet and wild-cat; the mountain lion, 
 jaguar, gray timber wolf, red and silver fox, mountain sheep, 
 several varieties of deer, a host of rabbits and a small world of 
 feathered game. On the plains are antelope, coyotes and 
 whatnot. 
 
 The Best Time for Hunting is from the first of Oct. to 
 the first of Dec. Not only is the weather at this season most 
 nearly perfect, but the game is at its best. There is one ex- 
 ception to the latter, for the fur of the bear is better after he 
 comes out of his winter quarters. The bears “ hole up ” about 
 the middle of Dec. Prior to that time there is good hunting 
 for them, all through Oct. and Nov. In April and May the 
 fur is in still better condition than in the fall. The season 
 for mountain sheep, deer and antelope is from Sept. 1 to 
 March 1. Mountain lions may be had at any time. The 
 jaguar can be hunted to the best advantage between the first 
 of Feb. and June. This represents the dry season, and life 
 in the woods is free from discomforts. The mountain sheep — 
 
54 Route 12. 
 
 THE CASAS GRANDES 
 
 which are always difficult to get — are found in the greatest 
 number on the barren crags and rocky stretches to the east 
 of the railway. Black-tailed deer and antelope are often seen 
 from the cars. To get the larger bear and the mountain lions 
 and wild-cats, one must leave the railway and travel to the 
 higher reaches of the mountains toward the west, among the 
 pine timber. Dogs are necessary. 
 
 Guides and Equipment. These can be obtained either at 
 El Paso (Texas) or at Casas Grandes — near the end of the 
 railway. The usual pay of a guide (who furnishes his own 
 horse) is from S5 to 88 a day, Mexican money. The guides 
 to be found at Casas Grandes and the adjacent Colonies , 
 sometimes provide a cook, provender and regular camp- 
 equipment (which does not include guns and ammunition) 
 at prices ranging from S20 a day for one man to a lower price 
 according to the number in the party. Detailed information 
 can always be had from any official of the railway company. 
 Equipment passed into Mexico from the United States must be 
 bonded (or the duty paid) at the border, if the customs duties 
 are to be refunded. The manufacturer’s number on each 
 gun is registered. Ammunition must be paid for at the rate 
 of about 30 c. (U. S. money) per lb. Duty is also assessed on 
 provisions. For a fee of 82.50 (U. S. money) the customs 
 agent of the railway will attend to all details connected with 
 the passing and bonding of outfits through the custom-house. 
 
 The celebrated Casas Grandes, or big houses, a deserted and ruinous 
 village in which four or five thousand persons — perchance the first 
 Americans — are supposed to have lived in ages past, lies 1 M. south of 
 the present pueblo (town) of Casas Grandes on the crest of a ridge com- 
 manding a wide sweep of territory. The ruins differ materially from the 
 beautiful palaces of Uxmal (p. 5S0). Chichen-Itza (p. 581) and Palenque 
 (p. 567) and their low order of architecture bears a closer resemblance 
 to that of the Indian pueblos of Arizona and New Mexico than to the 
 stone palacios of the early Mexicans. The building material is mud 
 mixed with gravel moulded into large adobes, or bricks, and the rooms 
 are superimposed like those of the Zuni Indians of New Mexico. None of 
 the clustered houses are intact ; the roofs have fallen in. and six or eight 
 mounds — the highest some 20 ft. above ground — are all that remain 
 of a group of buildings of which history even has no record. In their 
 present state they offer little of interest to other than an archaeologist. 
 
 Several fairly well constructed irrigating ditches surround the ruins, 
 and some 5 M. to the S.-W., perched on the summit of a high knoll, is a 
 time-worn watch-tower, from the top of which one commands an exten- 
 sive view. Perchance sharp-eyed Indian sentinels stood guard here aeons 
 of ages ago and scanned the wide horizon for signs of an approaching foe. 
 This old fortress is 40 ft. in diameter, round, and defended on its most 
 accessible side by a crumbling wall several ft. thick and about 10 ft. 
 high. The outlines of four small rooms can be traced in the centre of the 
 structure. Time and torrential rains have greatly reduced what was once 
 a large edifice. 
 
 Specimens of unusually good Indian pottery have been dug up near 
 the Casas Grandes : certain of the pieces are superior in quality and decor- 
 at ion to that usually made by the New Mexico Indians. Pottery similar 
 in design but of a lower order of craftsmanship has also been found in the 
 San Diego and the Piedras Verdes valleys near by. Mr. Carl Lumholtz 
 secured several hundred pieces of this ware during his researches in the 
 
LAS COLONIAS DE GALEANA 12. Rte. 55 
 
 district, and in his conception some of the specimens “are of rare delicacy 
 and rich in taste, feeling and coloring.” They form “a transition from 
 the culture of the pueblos of Arizona and New Mexico, to that of the 
 Valley of Mexico, a thousand miles further south.” “The clay employed 
 in their manufacture was quite fine, white, with a slightly grayish, yellow 
 tinge. The decorative designs, which are varied and interesting, are in 
 black, and black-and-red. The decorations of birds and serpents are of a 
 form which indicate that the makers were influenced by the Aztec potters 
 of the Valley of Mexico. Pieces of a black ware, with a very high polish, 
 were also found.” It is quite within reason to believe that the Aztecs 
 themselves built the Casas Grandes , dwelt therein and made pottery 
 there prior to their long peregrination southward in search of the mystit 
 symbol (comp. p. clxiv) which was to end their wanderings and permit 
 them to establish their empire. 
 
 The Casas Grandes region was long the chosen rendezvous of the 
 Chiricahua Apaches, and many of their trails and monuments — usually 
 mere heaps of stones — are to be found on the higher reaches of the Sierra 
 Madre Mountains. Since the U. S. Government put the Apaches on 
 reservations, men of this tribe are rarely met with in this section. 
 
 Many ruins of casas blancas (white houses) dot the landscape of this 
 region, and the barrancas of the less accessible cross-spurs of the moun- 
 tains are perforated by the deserted and silent homes of the early cave- 
 dwellers. The most extensive remains of these lie some miles to the S. 
 of the Casas Grandes , near the pueblo of Chuhuichupa (place of the dead), 
 and were brought to light in 1892 by Mr. C. H. Taylor of the C. Lum- 
 holtz Expedition. “They are in a huge cave in a gorge on the northern 
 slope of the Garrabato arroyo. The cave is in a conglomerate formation, 
 faces east, and lies about 215 ft. above the bottom of the gorge. The 
 ascent is steep and somewhat difficult. At a little distance, the high, 
 regular walls of the houses, with their many doors and window openings, 
 present a striking contrast to their surroundings of jagged cliffs and a 
 wilderness of woods. Some of the walls have succumbed to the weight 
 of ages, but on the whole, the ruins are in a good state of preservation. 
 The space covered by the houses and fallen walls is 125 ft. deep from side 
 to side, and 35 ft. deep at the central part of the dwellings. The roof 
 of the cave, or rather the overhanging cliff, is 80 ft. above the floor at 
 its highest point. The houses are arranged in an arc or half-circle so large 
 as hardly to deviate from a straight line. The front row is but one story 
 high, while the adjoining row back of it is two stories. Each room, of 
 which there are more than a score, is about 12 ft. square with walls vary- 
 ing in thickness from 15 inches at the base to 7 inches at the top. The 
 surfaces of the walls are smooth and show evidences of carrying six or 
 eight coats of plaster. The floors are smoothly cemented and are as hard 
 as stone. A hall 40 ft. long and 7 ft. high traverses the building. This 
 hall was formerly roofed with heavy rafters, as the wall sockets are yet 
 visible. At the end of this space, in the upper story, is a room decorated 
 in red, while the space around the entrance is painted in a delicate shade 
 of lavender. Nothing except fragments of a stone axe and a piece of 
 matting were found in this deserted building.” 
 
 The Mormon Settlement of Dublan is a few miles distant 
 from Casas Grandes up the Casas Grandes Valley. Several 
 outlying colonies — Juarez, Diaz and Fernandez Leal — are 
 tributary to the central one. The group is often referred to as 
 Las Colonias de Galeana, from the district in which they 
 lie. This official title is insisted upon by Government in all 
 legal documents. These colonies are among the best con- 
 ducted and the most prosperous in the Republic. The Boer 
 Colony, fartherto the S., proved a failure. The Mormons num- 
 ber 4,000 and they have a fine schoolhouse which cost $75,000. 
 
 Some 25 M. south of the Mormon Colony of Chuhuichupa 
 
56 PRESIDIO DEL NORTE TO TOPOLOBAMPO 
 
 is a place known as Cape Valley, where there is another huge 
 cave containing a group of houses, in one of which 53 rooms 
 are still fairly well preserved. Near by are some ancient grana- 
 ries, circular in shape, and from 15 to 20 ft. high. From time to 
 time the newspapers of the Republic contain stories of miners 
 who have explored the inner fastnesses of the Sierra Madres 
 and have seen Indians supposed to belong to the cave-dwell- 
 ing tribes. Many people believe they exist near Maguari- 
 chic. Huge caves containing deposits of mummies have been 
 found in this vicinity. (Consult Bancroft’s Native Races.) 
 
 13. From Presidio del Norte via Chihuahua to 
 Topolobampo. 
 
 KANSAS CITY, MEXICO AND ORIENT RAILWAY. 
 
 635 M. from the Rio Grande at the Mex. border, and 1659 from Kansas 
 City (U. S. A.), the northern terminus. Certain portions of the Mexican 
 extension are still under construction and trains do not yet run through. 
 For detailed information consult the latest folder of the Rly. Co. or the 
 Guia Oficial. From Chihuahua (see below) to Mihaca (p. 61) the 
 Orient Co. uses the rails of the Chihuahua and Pacific Railway (p. 63). 
 Trains enter and leave the C. and P. station at Chihuahua, on the S.-W. 
 side of the city. 
 
 Presidio del Norte, where the Orient line penetrates to 
 Mexico, is on the Rio Grande , at the junction of the Conchos 
 River, about midway between El Paso, the N. terminus of the 
 National Rlys., and Eagle Pass, the end of the International 
 Line. The customs examinations, quarantine regulations and 
 other international formalities are similar to those mentioned 
 at p. 1. 
 
 The railway curves toward the S., traverses a number of 
 Mexican ranchos and skirts the southern edge of the fertile 
 Rio Conchos Valley. The line sweeps toward the N. and 
 crosses the Conchos River , on a fine steel bridge, near Rancho 
 Viejo. Near 109 M. Encantada (4,260 ft.) there is a mountain 
 of almost pure iron similar to the Iron Mt. of Durango , de- 
 scribed at p. 103. We traverse a fine upland country (3,000- 
 5,000 ft.) devoted to agriculture and stock-raising. 
 
 147 M. Aldama. We cross the Rio Chuviscar on a ten-span 
 steel bridge. The rly. line runs due W. to 167 M. Chihuahua 
 (described at p. 26), where the Orient line crosses that of the 
 National Rlys. of Mexico (Rte. 6, p. 25). 
 
 The west-bound train leaves from the station of the Chi- 
 huahua and Pacific Railway and runs toward the S.-W. across 
 a beautiful upland plain devoted to stock-raising. Some of the 
 haciendas hereabout are the largest, in point of size, in Mexico. 
 We pass the nondescript stations of 16 M. Salas and 33 M. 
 Santa Isabel. Here the line curves sharply and runs northward 
 to 51 M. San Andres , whence it trends toward the N.-W. The 
 
TARAHUMARE INDIANS 13. Route. 57 
 
 grade is steadily upward. Beyond 63 M. Bustillo we skirt the 
 S. shore of the Laguna de Castilla , 6,483 ft. above the level of 
 the sea. Beyond 82 M. San Antonio (6,710 ft.) we enter the 
 foothills of a spur of the Sierra Mad, re Mountains. Between 
 this point and Mesa Station (see p. 61) the splendid “ Mother 
 Range” describes a gigantic reverse curve, several hundred 
 miles in length, and forms an irregular Continental Divide, 
 from one slope of which the waters flow to the Atlantic and 
 from the other to the Pacific Ocean. The rly. line crosses the 
 range at three separate points, now descending into the At- 
 lantic, now into the Pacific basin. The scenery in certain 
 places is magnificent. The entire region has hitherto been 
 more or less a sealed book to the travelling world, but when 
 the grandeur of its mountain scenery is appreciated and its 
 wide, game-haunted woodlands penetrated, it will undoubt- 
 edly become a popular tourist resort. The best exponents of 
 the almost matchless climate are the Tarahumare Indians , 
 many of whom live to a great age. 
 
 The train climbs over the first ridge at 100 M. Pedernales 
 (7,549), at a higher elevation than that of Mexico City. We 
 descend the western slope of the barrier to 166 M. La Junta , 
 a junction of the branch line ( Ramal de la Junta a Temosa- 
 chj,c), which runs in a northerly direction to 54 M. Temo- 
 sachic — a town in the heart of the Indian region referred 
 to below. 
 
 By far the most interesting people of the northern Sierra Madre 
 region are the Tarahumare Indians, whose range is from Temosachic} 
 at the N., to the southern edge of the State of Chihuahua. The 25,000 
 (approximate) living members of the tribe are the lees of a populous 
 nation which the Spanish Conquistador es found in possession of the vast 
 region now called Chihuahua. The name, Tarahumare , is derived from 
 a curious game, or race, which the Indians run from morning till night, 
 driving before them a large ball. Both men and women are splendid 
 runners and their endurance is phenomenal. Mr. Lumholtz (see p. ccxl) 
 considers the Tarahumare the finest runner in the world. “This pro- 
 pensity for running is so great that the name of the tribe alludes to it. 
 Tarahumare is a Spanish corruption of raldmari, the meaning of which, 
 though somewhat obscure, may doubtless be given as ‘foot-runners.’ 
 A healthy Tarahumare will easily run 170 miles without stopping. 
 When sent out as a messenger he goes along at a slow trot, running stead- 
 ily and constantly. A man has been known to carry a letter in five days, 
 from Guazapares to Chihuahua City and back, a distance of nearly 600 
 miles by the road. While executing these feats of endurance the Indians 
 live on pinole , a native dish made of maize and water. Where the Tara- 
 humares serve the Mexicans they are often employed to run wild horses 
 into the corral. It may take them two or three days, but they will bring 
 them in; the horses thoroughly exhausted, the men comparatively fresh. 
 In the same way they will run down a deer following it for days through 
 snow and rain, until the animal is cornered and easily shot with arrows, 
 or until it is utterly jaded and its hoofs dropping off. The men are great 
 hunters and expert archers; making their own bows and arrows. 
 
 “The women can run as fast and as far as the men. They are all fond 
 of running by moonlight or torchlight; the races sometimes lasting over 
 
 . 1 The numerous towns and villages in the state with names terminat- 
 ing in chic pertain to, or were formerly inhabited by, these Indians. 
 
58 Route 13. TARAHUMARE INDIANS 
 
 two or three days. As darkness comes on, torches of resinous pine- wood 
 are lighted and carried along to illuminate the path of the runners, that 
 they may not stumble, making the scene one of extreme picturesqueness, 
 as these torch-bearers, demon-like, hurry through the forest. At their 
 local running-races the men sometimes kick a small ball before them, the 
 women using a small forked stick to keep the ball in advance of them as 
 they run. It is certainly a strange sight to see these sturdy amazons 
 race heavily along with astonishing perseverance. When creeks or water- 
 holes come in their way they simply lift their skirts, a la Diane , and make 
 short work of the crossing.” 
 
 One usually gets one’s first sight of the Tarahumares in Chihuahua 
 City, whither they go for barter. The pure-bloods are an interesting folk — 
 honest, truthful and industrious. Where they have become Mexicanized, 
 and have adopted the language and customs of their neighbors, they are, 
 as a rule, untrustworthy, and are addicted to lying. They are of medium 
 size, muscular, with prominent cheek-bones, and of a light, chocolate 
 brown color. They resent the encroachment of the Mexicans, but only 
 in the remote and less desirable regions have they been able to preserve 
 their native language and religious customs and teachings. Both men 
 and women wear long, flowing, jet-black hair, and they never grow bald. 
 Beards among the men are rare; when these appear the hairs are plucked 
 out, whiskers being distasteful to the people. Their devil is always 
 represented with a beard, and they call the Mexicans derisively shabotshi 
 — the bearded ones. The men, who are more numerous than women, are 
 powerful and enduring. Chastity is a noteworthy characteristic of the 
 tribe and to this is perchance attributable their remarkable physical en- 
 durance and long life. A strong young man will carry a weight of 100 
 lbs. or more on his head for hundreds of miles, without showing fatigue. 
 They live in the open, are remarkably healthy, and many attain an age 
 of a century or more. They love heat and will lie naked in a scorching 
 sun that would shrivel a white man. Despite this love of heat they bear 
 cold unflinchingly and they make nothing of travelling barefoot through 
 six inches of snow. 
 
 The section of the Sierra Madre in which they live is one of the health- 
 iest in Mexico. The air is dry and fine, and the region is a hunter’s para- 
 dise. Turkeys and similar fowl abound. Despite the heavy snows — 
 which are features of the winter climate — a multitude of green and 
 yellow-headed parrots (the latter are the talkers) make the district their 
 home and feed on the pine cones which grow in the higher sierras. Ante- 
 lope are plentiful, and bears are often met with. The Indians hunt the 
 former by wrapping themselves in an antelope skin and stalking the 
 game just as the American Indians formerly hunted the bison. 1 
 
 The Tarahumares kill rabbits with a species of boomerang (as do the 
 Moqnis of New Mexico), a relic, doubtless, of the days when they and 
 their Australian kinsmen crossed the Pacific Ocean by the chain of islands 
 which perhaps once linked Asia with America. 
 
 In that portion of the Sierra Madre range inhabited by the Tarahu- 
 mares there is to be found the largest woodpecker known — Campephilvs 
 imperiales. This splendid bird, which usually has for its habitat the 
 rarely travelled highlands of the Sierra , — that reach from the American 
 frontier at the N. to the southernmost point of the range in the Mexican 
 State of Jalisco, — is seldom found in museums: the male bird is noted 
 for its great length (it sometimes measures 2 ft. from the tip of the tail 
 to the end of the pointed bill) and for its gorgeous crest. The plumage 
 of the male is black-and-white; that of the female is more subdued in 
 tone. The birds are generally found in pairs and are usually too shy 
 to be trapped or shot. The Tarahumares consider them such a great deli- 
 cacy that they will cut down a big tree that contains a nest with eggs or 
 young birds. The Mexicans shoot them w’hen possible, believing their 
 plumage beneficial to health. When secured the feathers are held close to 
 the ears to thus impart their alleged magnetism and keep out the bad 
 
 1 Hunters will like to remember that a species of poison ivy grows 
 luxuriantly on these mountain slopes, and is to be avoided. 
 
AMERICAN CAVE-DWELLERS 13. Route. 59 
 
 effects of the wind. A characteristic of this giant woodpecker is that a 
 pair will attack a huge tree and feed upon it till it falls. 
 
 Some of the Tarahumare characteristics are very peculiar. Bashful- 
 ness is a tribal trait. The women do the wooing and the marriage cere- 
 mony is so simple as scarcely to deserve the name. When a mother feels 
 her time approaching she retires to some lonely and secluded spot in the 
 woods, being too bashful to bear her child while others are about. She 
 tightens her girdle around her waist, holds on to the branch of a tree 
 and bears her child in a sitting posture. After the little one is born the 
 husband brings the wife a jar of warm water from which she occasionally 
 drinks. The mother may lie down for that day, but the next morning 
 finds her at work as if nothing had been amiss with her. 
 
 The dress of the men is very scanty, and though they usually wear a 
 blanket when in a town or city, they go naked or clad in a home-spun 
 breech clout, of wool, when among their native hills. The attire of the 
 women is almost as simple; a short tunic, a skirt and rope sandals, with 
 the traditional string of beads. The tunic is discarded when they are 
 away from civilization. They dislike mirrors, preferring not to look at 
 themselves. To both men and women the Mexicans smell like pigs and 
 the Americans like coffee; both offensive odors to them. 
 
 The priests, or medicine men, often tie rags about their heads to keep 
 their thoughts from escaping. Both sexes like to adorn themselves with 
 strings of glass beads, pieces of shell, and necklaces made of the seeds of 
 a plant known a,s Coix calachryma-J obi (tears of Job). The medicine 
 men are never without several strings of these beads, to which they at- 
 tribute curative properties. 1 
 
 Many members of the tribe dwell in caves, and are known as the Amer- 
 ican Cave-Dwellers. The Indians consider their caves — which are 
 met with almost anywhere in the Sierra Madres — as safer and more 
 natural shelters than they could build for themselves. Back beneath 
 the arching and overhanging roof of some big cavern the Tarahumare 
 will build several small rooms of adobe, or sun-dried brick, and with 
 these as storerooms and living-rooms he is content. In front of the 
 entrance to the cavern there is generally a stone or mud wall, three or 
 more ft. high, as a protection against weather and wild beasts. Many 
 of the caverns contain natural springs of water which supply the occu- 
 pants. Sometimes the floor space is extended by an artificial terrace in 
 front of the cave, the largest of which are a hundred or more feet in 
 width and forty or nfty in depth. Inhabited caves are rarely found in 
 inaccessible places, as is the case with the Cliff-Dwellers in the S.-W. of 
 the U. S. A. Where they are difficult of access the natives reach them 
 by means of crude ladders or by a stairway cut in the soft rock. Some 
 Tarahumares dwell in houses made of low stone walls covered by timbers 
 that slope to the ground and form a slanting roof. Those who live in 
 proximity to the Mexicans have adobe houses with thatched roofs. 
 Others are not infrequently made by placing two poles upright and lean- 
 ing beams against them. 
 
 Tarahumare Legends and folk-lore point to an extreme antiquity. 
 The people practice fetish worship and believe that stones and similar 
 inanimate things possess life. A singular religious observance is the cult 
 of a species of cactus known as Mammilaria and as Echinocactus — in 
 the Tarahumare tongue, Hikuli. These plants live for several months 
 after they are uprooted, and the eating of them causes a state of 
 ecstasy. 
 
 The Tarahumare is devoid of artistic sense and his pottery is similar 
 to that found in the ruins of Casas Grandes and in the old cliff-dwell- 
 ings of Arizona and New Mexico. The native wealth lies in the possession 
 of cattle. If a native owns three or four head of cattle and a dozen or so 
 goats he is deemed rich. Corn is the most important agricultural product 
 and of it the native is very fond. If corn is not forthcoming as food 
 
 1 These beads are plentiful at Cuernavaca and other Mexican towns, 
 where the customary price i3 50 c. for a long string. It is said that peasant 
 women in Spain and Italy use them as a talisman, and that certain classes 
 in the U. S. A. give them to teething children. 
 
60 Route 13. THE PIMA INDIANS 
 
 when the Indian works for the Mexican he quits and seeks employment 
 where it is plentiful. He is fond of deer, mice, gophers, skunks and birds. 
 His chief delicacy is the secretion of a scale insect — Carteria mexicana — 
 which in the summer months is gathered from the branches of certain 
 trees, rolled by hand into thick, brown sticks, and laid away for the 
 winter. It is said to be efficacious in fever, is highly prized — particularly 
 when boiled and eaten as a sauce with porridge — and possesses a sweet- 
 ish acid taste. A false truffle (mentioned as a variety of the European 
 Melanogaster variegatus, and known as the species mexicanus ) is found 
 in the highlands and is also much prized; it is plentiful and grows an 
 inch or two below the surface of the ground . Dogs and pigs fatten on it 
 and are employed in seeking it. It tastes like an over-ripe pear with a 
 suggestion of onion, and it is the winter food of coyotes, foxes and bears. 
 The natives make and drink vast quantities of a beer called tesvino, 
 which resembles pulque or milky-white water; it is the product of corn 
 fermented, is slightly intoxicating, and is pleasing to the taste. The 
 making of this liquor, which is used in all the celebrations and dances, 
 is one of the chief ceremonies of the Indian life and it forms an integral 
 part of the tribal religion. 
 
 Near the village of Temosachic is a limestone plain known as Yepomera. 
 From layers 30 or more feet below the surface fossil bones are dug. The 
 Indians call them giant’s bones — huesos de gigantes — and they grind 
 them up into a medicine which is believed to be a strengthener. 
 
 For further information under this head consult Unknown Mexico , by 
 Carl Lumholtz, 2 vols. 
 
 The Pima Indians, who are allied in customs and language to the 
 T arahumare8 , dwell to the south of the Tarahumare region, in the Sierra 
 Madre Mountains. Still further to the S., near the border of the state, 
 is the important mining town of Guadalupe y Calvo , picturesquely situ- 
 ated in a deep basin surrounded by the steep slopes of the Sierra Madre 
 plateau. Seventeen miles to the N. is the Tepehuane village of Nabo- 
 game— “where the nopal grows.’’ Here dwell the lees of the fast- 
 diminishing Tepehuane tribe, dwindled now to some 1,500 souls. A few 
 live in the neighboring villages of San Francisco de Lajas, Santiago 
 Teneraca, Milpillas Chico , M. Grande and Santa Maria Ocotlan. The 
 region is agriculturally fine and it marks the northernmost limit of the 
 tribe’s former domain. These Indians resemble the T arahumares in 
 many ways. Their language is hard and full of consonants; not a few of 
 the Indians speak Spanish, acquired from their Mexican neighbors. 
 Many odd beliefs prevail. Finger- and toe-nails are permitted to grow 
 long — after the Chinese fashion — for fear that cutting them will pro- 
 duce blindness. A man’s soul is supposed to be located between his 
 stomach and chest; a sleeper is never wakened, as his soul may be absent 
 and be wandering about. When a man is ill his soul is thought to be ab- 
 sent. Unmarried women are not permitted to eat meat from the spinal 
 column of a deer, as their backs would grow curved and they would have 
 the bark-ache. Animals are supposed to be able to change their forms. 
 An odd custom of the tribe relates to chastity. Immorality is punished 
 by public switching on the bare skin. 
 
 The Tepehuanes have a curious musical instrument called the 
 tawitdl; in the form of a bow, nearly two meters long. It is formed of a 
 large round gourd on the top of which is fastened a big bow, back down : 
 a board on which the performer places his foot holds it in position. This 
 instrument is called the “musical bow” and in sonorousness it resembles 
 the “ cello.’ The shameni beat the taut string with two sticks, in a rhythm- 
 ical measure of one long and two short beats. W hen dancing to its music, 
 men and women wear anklets of rattles made from the empty dried pods 
 of a palm. The religious rites of the Tepehuanes are similar to those of 
 the T arahumares. (Carl Lumholtz.) 
 
 South of the Tepehuanes region, near the town of Morales, live 
 the remainder of the Tubar tribe, but few pure-bloods of which re- 
 main. They intermarry with Mexicans. Their language resembles the 
 Nahuatl and their customs those of the T arahumares. Many curi- 
 ous pieces of pottery and burnt beads have been taken from Tubar 
 tombs. 
 
BARRANCA DE COBRE 13. Route. 61 
 
 122 M. Minaca (6,921 ft.), on a broad mesa or upland plain 
 on the Pacific slope of the sierras. The town is a sort of out- 
 fitting-post for many of the mining-camps which lie to the 
 S. and W. Hotel Minaca. opposite the rly. station (couriers 
 meet all trains), S3 to $4 Am. PL Outfits and guides for hunters 
 or prospectors can be had of the hotel manager. 
 
 From Minaca on to La Junta (on the Pacific Coast Division) 
 the stations are nondescript, but the mountain scenery is as 
 wild and beautiful as any to be found in the Republic. The 
 hills are immensely rich in minerals and the region is dotted 
 with mining-camps. We cross the Guerrero River and soon enter 
 the Canon of the Guerrero. The line zig-zags in and out of the 
 gorges, climbing steadily up the mountain-sides. At 148 M. 
 Pichachic (7,225 ft.) the scenery is very attractive. The town 
 is one of the oldest in the region, with a church dating from 
 1665. Many Tarahumare Indians are to be seen hereabout. 
 Beyond Pichachic the gorge deepens and the difficult engin- 
 eering problems have necessitated many costly cuts and 
 bridges. 
 
 167. M. San Juanito (7,870 ft.), in the midst of beautiful 
 pine woods. The tall, lithe trees clothe the region for miles 
 around, and several American saw-mills are at work hereabout 
 cutting lumber and railway ties for shipment to other points 
 in the Republic. 
 
 The rly. traverses some 200 miles of magnificent timber-land, nearly 
 600,000 acres of which have recently been purchased by Americans. 
 Saw-mills are being erected and considerable quantities of turpentine and 
 resin are being shipped out. 
 
 178 M. Bocoyna (7,287 ft.). We enter the picturesque 
 Canon of the Bocoyna River , and at 190 M. Creel (7,963 ft.) we 
 reach the highest point on the line (one mile and a half above 
 Presidio and the Rio Grande ) and cross the western spur of 
 the Continental Divide. 
 
 At 225 M. Mesa (7,350 ft.)we come to one of the most beau- 
 tiful canons in Northern Mexico, and the finest bit of scenery 
 on the line. About 1,000 yards to the S. of the railway, and 
 paralleling it for a short distance, is the wonderful Barranca 
 de Cobre (Copper Gorge), a gigantic rift in the earth over a 
 hundred miles long, five miles wide and from 4,000 to 5,000 
 ft. deep. At this point it forms a horseshoe curve and affords 
 beguiling views down the chasm to the right and left. The 
 Urique River , a tributary of the Rio Fuerte, flows through the 
 canon. Wild scenery, wild game and wild flowers are special- 
 ties of the region. Of the latter there is an almost endless 
 variety. The lower reaches of the gorge riot in tropical vege- 
 tation, and there fruits and flowers grow that would not thrive 
 in the cold uplands. “Painted like a flower ’* and celebrated 
 for its stupendous and awe-inspiring scenery, the Barranca 
 
62 Route 13. 
 
 TOPOLOBAMPO 
 
 de Cobre is a worthy Latin-American rival of the beautiful 
 Grand Canon of the Colorado in Arizona (U. S. A.). 
 
 It is down grade from Mesa , and between this point and 
 La Junta , 105 miles distant, we drop from 7,350 ft. to less 
 than 700. The scenery is wildly picturesque. 
 
 351 M. La Junta (656 ft.), at the top of the beautiful Rio 
 Fuerte Valley, overlooking an amazingly rich and tropical 
 region, is contiguous to the Fuerte River , which emerges from 
 the mountains hard by and flows through the State of Sinaloa 
 to the sea. To the X. of La Junta, in the magnificent Septen- 
 trion Canon, are the remains of the homes of the early 
 Cliff-Dwellers, while on the walls of the gorge are painted 
 records which no doubt refer to this vanished race. Not far 
 from the station are the locally celebrated Hot Springs {Agua 
 Caliente de Baca) whose medicinal sulphur waters (110° 
 Fahr.) are said to be efficacious in rheumatic ailments. 
 
 The line soon emerges from the foothills and descends the 
 Rio Fuerte Valley on a gentle gradient. The soil of this favored 
 region is phenomenally deep and amazingly productive. Shel- 
 tered by the Sierra Madre Range from the cool north winds, 
 warmed by a sempiternal sun and drenched by tropical 
 showers, the earth brings forth riches such as toiling farmers 
 in certain arid regions of the U. S. A. perhaps never dreamed j 
 of. Dates, figs, oranges, lemons, limes, bananas, pineapples, 1 
 papayas (comp. p. 54S) and whatnot are but a few of the i 
 multiplicity of fine fruits. Smiling fields of sugar-cane stretch | 
 away as far as the eye can reach, while the more homely but 
 equally wealth-producing crops are represented by Kaffir 
 corn, chick-peas, potatoes, tobacco, wheat, apples and an 
 almost endless variety of tropical and sub-tropical products. 
 
 At 454 M. Mochis Junction, the line enters the rich Mochis 
 Valley. 
 
 467 M. Topolobampo (a Yaqui Indian word meaning j 
 tiger-water), the Pacific terminus of the railway, 1,659 M. 
 from its northern end, at Kansas City, Mo., 500 M. east of 
 San Francisco, and a hundred miles E. of Salt Lake City, in 
 Utah. The town occupies a beautiful situation overlooking the 
 fine Topolobampo Bay, in the Gulf of California. The bay 
 swarms with fine fish, and many aquatic birds make of it a 
 permanent breeding place. Here, at any season of the year, 
 the hunter and the fisherman find inexhaustible sport. Game j 
 exists in the hinterland, there is no close season, and the region | 
 is practically unhunted. The water of the bay is so deep that | 
 ocean-going ships come right up and tie to the wharf, within a 
 few feet of the town. The latter is a port-of-call for several I 
 lines of ships plying between California at the North, and Pana- 
 ma at the South. Topolobampo’s natural advantages will make 
 it. in time to come, one of the great Pacific ports of Mexico. 
 
 The excellent ships of the Mexican States Line, and the 
 
K.C., MEXICO AND ORIENT RLY. 13. Rte. 62 a 
 
 Mexican Navigation Co., call regularly at Topolobampo and 
 connect with ports at the north and south. Senores Preciado 
 Hermanos, Agentes. 
 
 While it perhaps is outside the province of a guidebook to 
 stress the material advantages of a country or a region it 
 describes, the almost unique opportunities along the line of 
 the Kansas City, Mexico & Orient Railway make one wish 
 that more Americans knew of the region and its amazing 
 possibilities. When Baron Alexander Von Humboldt called 
 Mexico the Treasure House of the World, he spoke only from 
 surface indications and a deficient knowledge of the untold 
 wealth of this then undeveloped country. He could not know 
 of more than a tithe of its vast resources, but what his keen 
 vision saw convinced him that it was a veritable land of 
 promise. When he was in Mexico in 1804 oil had not been dis- 
 covered, Spain restricted commercial intercourse to her own 
 nationals, forbade all but the most limited undertakings, and 
 was content with the silver mines as visible evidence of the 
 land’s potential riches. 
 
 Though Mexico to-day possesses more than 20,000 miles of 
 railway, is the greatest silver producing country of the world, 
 is second in the production of copper and third in lead and zinc, 
 it is essentially the land of opportunity because perhaps nine- 
 tenths of its wealth is still undeveloped. What show are but 
 indications of what lie behind. No better example of its aston- 
 ishing fruitfulness exists than the present output of oil. When 
 the oil industry was in its infancy in 1910, a trifle more than 
 10,000 bbls. were exported. To-day more than 200 million 
 bbls. are sent out of the country, and this record no doubt 
 will be exceeded in the very near future. Within two decades 
 the land which to-day produces this vast quantity of liquid 
 gold could be bought for 50 cents (U. S. money) an acre. Its 
 value now is inestimable. Mexico still has thousands of acres 
 of land that can be bought for practically the same price, 
 the surface of it available for farming or ranching, and the sub- 
 soil perhaps concealing vast pools of oil or veins of minerals. 
 
 Sections of the Republic traversed by the Kansas City, 
 Mexico & Orient Rly. contain some of the finest grazing 
 lands on the continent; lands which need only the deft touch 
 of the skilled rancher to produce riches beyond one’s wildest 
 dreams. The State of Chihuahua, which the railway crosses 
 from end to end, is larger than any Central American Repub- 
 lic, and is twice the size of Cuba. Of great moment is the fact 
 that it is separated from the United States only by an imagi- 
 nary line. More than one railway crosses this line, while 
 north of it lies a market for cattle which all Latin America 
 cannot supply. In Uncle Sam’s domain there is a practically 
 inexhaustible demand for sheep and hogs, horses and mules, 
 beef creatures, hides and wool, fruits and vegetables, and a 
 
62 b Rte. 13. THE LAND OF OPPORTUNITY 
 
 score of other things that can be produced in Mexico on cheap 
 lands, with cheap labor, and in a region where people live to 
 a great age because the climate is almost perfect and in con- 
 sequence one lives out of doors 365 days in the year. 
 
 Mexico itself is larger than Great Britain, France, Germany, Holland, 
 Denmark, Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, Greece, and Cuba combined, with 
 practically every climate possessed by those countries, and more natural 
 resources than all of them. Hitherto Mexico’s greatest development has 
 been in the South, due, perhaps, to the fact that Mexico’s rulers have been 
 southern men, and that the greatest political activities have been far from 
 the American line. The unique advantage of being within a stone's throw 
 of one of the greatest consuming markets in the world was not appreciated. 
 In this respect the Mexico of the future will be different from the Mexico of 
 the past. 
 
 The wonderful oil fields of the Tampico district are indications of what 
 Northern Mexico is capable of; as are also the extraordinarily rich silver 
 mines of Chihuahua, the vast grazing lands of this state and Sonora, and 
 the uncounted and undeveloped riches of Sinaloa, in which Topolobampo 
 is situated. 
 
 The writer hopes that Americans will not be negligent in securing their 
 share of the great wealth of this land of opportunity. Practically every- 
 thing awaits development, but it will not continue to wait. A decade or so 
 ago certain of the fertile trucking lands between Laredo and Brownsville, 
 on the Texas side of the Rio Grande, could be had for a dollar an acre. To- 
 day it is worth $500, for it can, and does, produce Bermuda onions, canta- 
 loupes and other specialties equal to the finest grown anyw'here. The land 
 immediately across the river, in Mexico, differs in no wise from that on the 
 American side. Mexico is the only cattle-raising country with cheap lands 
 north of the equator. Shipments of dressed meats that come from the Ar- 
 gentine and Australia must cross the equator, be frozen, and be subject to a 
 loss of time and freight rates very considerably greater than if the animals 
 were driven across the Rio Grande. Some of the timber lands along the 
 line of the Kansas City, Mexico & Orient Rly. rank wdth the finest on the 
 continent. Everything that grows in any sub-tropical region will thrive in 
 Sinaloa — cotton, sugar, grain, the finest of fine fruits, and fibres which 
 few other countries possess. Since it is much like Tamaulipas, with its vast 
 oil pools and wells, oil no doubt lies beneath the surface. 
 
 Mexico is somewhat unique in that there is no time when alert Ameri- 
 cans cannot make money there. During the recent unrest, when fugitive, 
 revolutionary governments forced its paper money upon the people, ambi- 
 tious Americans with a few thousand dollars in American hanks took this 
 money to Mexico, there got anywhere from ten to twentj r for one for it, 
 and with this depreciated currency bought property which now is worth 
 from ten to twenty times as much as they paid for it. In Mexico City 
 to-day there are business blocks and suburban estates worth anywhere 
 from $75,000 to $100,000, which Americans bought for about $5,000. 
 Within the next decade they will be worth at least twice their present 
 value. Landed estates changed hands in the same way. It’s an ill wind 
 indeed that does not favor far-sighted foreigners in our sister Republic. 
 
 Mexico is once more on the up grade. The people arc tired of bootless 
 revolutions, and a strong and able government means to keep them in this 
 mood. Scores of opportunities await the energetic man, for Mexico is 
 only on the threshold of its real development. Americans are liked by the 
 better element in the Republic, and usually every facility is offered them in 
 their efforts to establish themselves in the country. Some of the largest 
 interests are in American hands. Many of the biggest banks are Ameri- 
 can. and the chief railways and oil fields were developed by Americans. 
 
 The American interested in Mexican lands, mines, oil fields, ranches, sugar 
 plantations, fruit farms, etc., cab get helpful information from The Mexican 
 International Trust Co. (an American company), with offices at Callejon 
 de la Condesa 8, Mexico City; the American Chamber of Commerce of 
 Mexico, at Segunda Motolinia No. 23, Mexico City; The American Cham* 
 her of Commerce of Tampico, Apartado 777, Tampico, Mexico, etc. 
 
JIMENEZ TO ROSARIO 15. Route. 63 
 
 14. From Chihuahua to Mifiaca. 
 
 CHIHUAHUA AND PACIFIC RAILWAY. 
 
 ( Mexico North-Western R. R.) 
 
 194 K. For time of departure of trains, fares, etc., consult the rly. folder 
 or the Guia Oficial. The scenery along the line is described at p. 56, Rte. 13. 
 
 15. From Jimenez via Parral to Rosario. 
 
 Trains leave Jimenez from the main line station of the National Rlys. 
 For time of departure, fares, etc., consult the company’s folder. For hotels, 
 etc., comp. Jimenez, p. 33. 
 
 When the train quits the station it runs parallel to the main 
 line for a short distance, crosses a long bridge, then sweeps 
 round to the W. and traverses a fairly level, highly cultivated 
 country in which numerous flocks of goats are conspicuous 
 features. 6 Kilom. Orion. A number of white-walled haciendas 
 are visible on the left, and beyond them, cutting the sky-line, 
 is a series of blue-peaked hills. Many exaggerated jack-rab- 
 bits, with long, up-standing ears, lollop away from the passing 
 train; the whistle of the field-lark is heard. The eye wanders 
 over large grain-fields destitute of trees. 
 
 30 K. Troya , in the midst of piles of gray and brown metallic 
 ores awaiting shipment to the reduction works at Torreon 
 (p. 35). The mines lie off in the distant hills. 
 
 40 K. Baca , the shipping-point for the rich ores from the 
 mines visible in the hills to the left. A railway, 8 kilometers 
 long, runs hence to the Cigarrero Mine (see below). A wagon- 
 ette also conveys passengers to and from the camp (fare 
 50 c. one way, SI round trip). A well-beaten highway over 
 which all the ores were transported prior to 1907 leads from 
 the station to the hills. The district, generally known as the 
 Almoloya, is one of the most important mining regions in 
 Mexico, and is noted for its almost inexhaustible deposits 
 of high-grade gold, silver and copper ores. 
 
 The mines lie in a mountain ridge, called the Sierra de Almoloya, about 
 7 miles long by 2 M. wide, which rises about 1 ,500 ft. above the level plain. 
 The oldest mine, Santa Evlalia, was known to the Indians before the 
 Conquest, and although it has been w r orked almost continuously for up- 
 wards of four centuries, it is more productive to-day than ever. An almost 
 equally celebrated mine, El Cigarrero, owned by a Mexican company, 
 has been known to produce one hundred thousand pesos worth of ore 
 a month. Many other rich mines are worked hereabout, and an almost 
 steady stream of ore passes through the Baca station en route to the 
 Torreon smelter. The Almoloya region is also celebrated for fluxing ores 
 which contain the elements necessary for fluxing the highly silicious ore 
 produced in some of the Parral (p. 64) mines, 
 
 46 K. Dorada. 59 K. Morita. We leave the level country 
 and traverse a hilly region less fertile than the plains we have 
 left. The land is crossed by dry water-courses many feet 
 below the level of the adjacent country. During the rainy 
 
64 Route 16. HIDALGO DEL PARRAL 
 
 season the waters which deluge the dry surface race down the 
 hillsides and cut deep gulleys in the alluvial soil. In the tiny 
 valleys between the hills are cultivated patches, each with a 
 small well and a primitive well-sweep, constructed of a beam 
 poised on a fulcrum with a heavy stone or a basket of earth 
 at one end and a long rope with a bucket suspended from the 
 other. These original see-saws are apparently the delight of 
 the youngsters who ride astride the beam as it goes up and 
 down. 65 K. Adela. 76 K. Gomera. 
 
 83 K. Maturana. Bare brown hills (which the train climbs 
 steadily), pregnant with mineral wealth and carved by the erod- 
 ing wind and rain into fantastic shapes, advertise the approach 
 to Parral. Lines of burros laden with country produce and 
 with fat matrons in voluminous red petticoats, wind over the 
 hills toward the metropolis. Sarape-clad bumpkins run along- 
 side each animal, twist its tail, prod its ribs with sticks and 
 shout burro in an effort to accelerate its speed. 
 
 90 K. Parral , see below. For a continuation of the journey, 
 see p. 67. 
 
 16. Parral. 
 
 Arrival. The Railway Station ( estacion del Ferrocarril ) stands on a 
 level plateau a mile or more from the centre of the town. 
 
 Taxicabs. Ford taxis meet trains; per hour, $2.50; h hour or less, $1.50. 
 Higher on Sundays and dias de fiesta. For out-of-town trips, to the mines, 
 etc., it is best to come to an agreement before starting, as the rates mentioned 
 apply only within the city limits. A few Cabs ( coches de sitio ) ply for hire, 
 and usually they are cheaper than the autos. Large, commodious auto- 
 mobiles can be hired with the assistance of the hotel manager. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). The Hotel Iberia , with rooms from $2 (pesos) 
 up, per day, meals in the restaurant a la carta, caters to Americans. — There 
 are several minor hotels, with prices ranging from $2 a day and up.D 
 
 Banks. Banco National de Mexico — Banco de Chihuahua. 
 
 Hidalgo del Parral 1 (6,200 ft.), named for the patriot 
 Miguel Hidalgo , chief town of the District of Hidalgo , with 
 16,382 inhabitants, stands at the base of a tall, cross-sur- 
 mounted hill ( Sierra de la Cruz) on the margin of the semi- 
 dry Parral River and flanks the old stage-road between 
 Jimenez and Rosario. 
 
 Parral is one of the few Mexican cities which retains its 
 primitive character. Somewhat removed from the beaten 
 track of travel, rarely visited except bv travellers interested in 
 mines and mining, it pursues the quiet tenor of its ways in 
 pure Mexican fashion. Improvements and progress are some- 
 times tardy in reaching it, and when they do they are not 
 always accorded an enthusiastic welcome. 
 
 From the station a long, rocky st reet innocent of sidewalks 
 leads into the town, which has all the appearance of a mining 
 centre. Heavily laden ore-wagons drawn by straining mules 
 are familiar figures in the street life. 
 
 1 Parral means a large earthen jar; also a vine with many shoots. 
 
Parochial Church . 
 
 PARRAL 
 
 16. Route. 65 
 
 Parral first came into history in 1547, when it was mentioned (in 
 connection with the newly discovered Santa Barbara region) as unusually 
 rich in metallic ores. Since that date (which coincides with the dis- 
 covery of some of its fabulously rich mines), it has been celebrated for 
 a steady output of valuable metals. Town records bearing the date of 
 1612 refer to the almost uninterrupted stream of wealth which went 
 from this jejune mining-camp to the glittering court of the Spanish kings. 
 In 1600 it contained 7,000 miners and a long list of workable mines. At 
 that time the Indians were forced to work in the mines, and many of the 
 unfortunates, beside toiling in subterranean darkness for a foreign mon- 
 arch they had never seen, were obliged to pay the major portion of what 
 little recompense that was allowed them to the support of the clergy and 
 the church. At one time in the town’s history the exactions of the cleri- 
 cals were so onerous that the Indians flooded the mines and thousands 
 quit the place. It remained for a later generation to re-open the old 
 mines and work them satisfactorily for all. Even the tailings of these 
 first mines, worked by crude Spanish methods, produce handsome 
 revenues to the American companies exploiting them. The Franciscan 
 Mission was established in Parral in 1714. During the French interven- 
 tion (p. ccxx) the town was occupied by the troops of Napoleon III, and 
 the ruinous fort on the summit of El Cerro de la Cruz is a relic of that 
 epoch. Parral was the last Mexican town in the North to submit to the 
 Diaz administration in 1876. 
 
 The Plaza de Hidalgo, the centre of the town and around 
 which the town life revolves, is embellished by a pretty 
 kiosk, some unusually tall trees and a number of flowering 
 shrubs. A military band plays here on certain evenings of the 
 week. 
 
 The Palacio Municipal facing the plaza is a low, nonde- 
 script edifice with an attractive patio and garden — the latter 
 known as the Jardin Bravo , from a revolutionary hero. A 
 bizarre clock-tower surmounts the N. corner of the building. 
 
 The Parochial Church flanks one side of the plaza and 
 dates from 1710. It is a time-stained and somewhat tawdry 
 structure, interesting, however, for four handsomely carved 
 Churrigueresque (p. cxxxii) altars with quaint paintings let 
 into the gilded wood ; most of these pictures represent scenes 
 from Calvary. The interior, entered from the plaza or from 
 the street which flanks it, comprises one big central nave 
 with lateral chapels and altars ; the main altar ( altar mayor ) 
 occupies the entire end and is a fine example of pure Churri- 
 gueresque. The inharmonious mass of tinsel which is sup- 
 posed to decorate the interior of the ch. is out of keeping 
 with this fine old relic of Spanish art. Two seated figures 
 of Christ crowned with thorns, in glass cases on one side of 
 the nave, command attention. The lower figure, clad in a 
 woman’s white cotton under-garment edged with cheap, imi- 
 tation lace and insertion (an inappropriate and ludicrous 
 thing), peers out from its dingy prison with a wistfulness 
 which excites compassion ; the effect is wholly saddening. 
 
 The Church of San Juan de Dios f in the Plaza Porfirio 
 Diaz t dates from 1712 (renovated in 1905 by Pedro Alvarado 
 at a cost of $30,000) and is reached by a short flight of stone 
 steps which take the place of an atrium. An ancient campa - 
 
66 Route 16. 
 
 PARRAL 
 
 Palacio de 
 
 nario with a cracked bell surmounts it. The interior decora- 
 tions are modern and uninteresting. Hard by is the (uninter- 
 esting) Church of Nuestra Sehora de Guadalupe. 
 
 From an historical standpoint the most noteworthy of the 
 Parral churches is La Iglesia de la Yirgen del Rayo (thun- 
 derbolt), which faces a dusty and almost deserted square, 
 across the river from the main town. It is a quaint, time- 
 stained structure, with a three-storied tower surmoimting 
 the left corner; minus a dome, with curious old buttresses sup- 
 porting its sides and with a crumbling facade adorned with 
 graceful Tuscan columns. The old gargoyles which conduct 
 the water from the flat roof are interesting. The interior is 
 paved with stone slabs ; the groined arch above the main altar 
 is supported by Tuscan pilasters. One entire end of the single 
 nave is filled by a curious old altar, of many orders, the Chur - 
 rigueresque predominating. A number of figurines stand in 
 railed niches and produce the effect of a gigantic cuckoo clock 
 with the figures ready to come forward and announce the time 
 A haldachino with a figure of a Cristo crucified is the dom- 
 inating feature of the altar. A small table takes the place of 
 a lectern, and a canopied pulpit with two confessionals — one j 
 in the form of a subsellium — are the chief features of the j 
 interior. 
 
 This church is the chosen one of the Indians, who refer with 
 pride to its history and to the stoicism of its founder. Begun 
 in 1690 it was completed in 1710 at the expense of an Indian j 
 miner who every Saturday brought a gold ingot with which j 
 to pay the workmen. No one knew the source of his supply. j 
 When the ch. was finished the taciturn Indio was haled before 
 the Spanish comandante of the district and told that he must jl 
 divulge the secret of the hidden mine; he refused and was tor- 
 tured to death. From that date the mine was “ lost and it still , 
 remains undiscovered. 
 
 A house reverenced by all Mexicans is No. 30 in the Calle 1 
 de M ercaderes (near the Parral Club). A commemorative tablet | 
 let into the facade advises that the Licentiate Benito Juarez I 
 occupied this house in October , 1864, on his glorious journey I 
 to Paso del Norte. The public is further advised that the j 
 tablet was placed in position by order of the City Council, 
 March 21, 1906. 
 
 To Mexicans, the chief attraction of the town is the Palacio j 
 of Pedro Alvarado , in a narrow street leading from the Plaza 
 Porjirio Diaz , on the bank of the Parral River. The structure 
 stands almost immediately in the rear of the Parral Foreign j 
 Club, and will prove uninteresting to the traveller. The 
 Palacio , used as a residence, contains a fine onyx stairway and 
 a sumptuous and costly chapel. The facade is rather pleasing, 
 with good Corinthian columns and a wealth of stone-carving. 
 The edifice is so shut in by adobe houses and narrow streets i 
 
Pedro Alvarado. 
 
 PARRAL 
 
 16. Route. 67 
 
 that it is difficult to find a point whence its proportions can be 
 properly realized. A fairly good survey of it is possible from 
 the opposite bank of the river, but from that vantage-point 
 the rear only of the house is visible. One end of the building 
 is sadly defaced by an iron stove-pipe thrust out through the 
 handsomely barred window. This feature is indicative of 
 the taste of the owner and is, in a measure, the keynote to the 
 state of the richly decorated interior. The rooms are museums 
 of costly draperies, finely carved furniture and many knick- 
 knacks jumbled and strewn around on priceless carpets with 
 holes burned in them by cigar ashes, and defiled by the fighting 
 cockerels which wander at will through the rooms. A score 
 or more pianos are features of the house, which cost, exclusive 
 of its fitments, about 200,000 pesos. 
 
 The multi-millionaire owner was a peon miner who made a colossal 
 fortune by striking a bonanza in a now celebrated silver-mine known as 
 La Palmilla (little palm). A kindly, guileless, public-spirited man, who 
 sprang into prominence because of his alleged offer to pay the National 
 Debt, he devotes much of his great income to beautifying his native 
 town. Many of the modern edifices in Parral belong to him. He is un- 
 pretentious and friendly to all. 
 
 The Parral Mining District includes the municipalities 
 of Parral, Minas Nuevas (see below) and Santa Barbara, 
 and is known to miners almost everywhere for the celebrated 
 Veta Colorado (red vein), a great mineral vein of undefined 
 width and depth which runs for nearly ten miles, north and 
 south, through the district. La Palmilla Mine on Palmilla 
 Hill , at the southern end of the Veta Colorado, is one of the 
 bonanzas of this range. Prominent among the historical 
 mines located in the ridge are the Alf arena, Quebradillas , 
 Tecolotes, Franquena , La Union, Hesperides, San Francisco 
 del Oro, Los Muertos, Mina del Agua, Veta Grande, Cerro 
 Colorado, Caballo, San Albino Group, Terrenatis, Coyote Group, 
 El Verde, and El Toro. The Parral ores are highly silicious. 
 For further information under this head consult The Mines 
 of Mexico, by J. R. Southworth, and The Mines of Chihuahua , 
 by George Griggs. 
 
 Minas Nuevas, 8 M. distant on the Parral & Durango 
 Railway (5 trains daily in \ hr.; consult the Guia Oficial), in 
 the centre of a fine country adapted to grazing and agriculture 
 but celebrated chiefly for its productive mines, came into his- 
 tory in 1645 when Diego Rodrigo located the still famous mines 
 of San Diego de Minas Nuevas. They lie along the Veta Colo- 
 rado and are being worked chiefly by Americans. 
 
 Parral, see p. 64. The trend of the railway line is southward. 
 101 K. Zenzontle. We traverse a hilly and highly mineralized 
 region dotted with fine valleys under cultivation. 
 
 108 K. Adrian. Junction of the Ramal de Santa Barbara 
 (2 trains daily, 8 kilometros, in 15 min. ; consult Guia Oficial ). 
 
68 Route 16. 
 
 ROSARIO 
 
 The town of S. Barbara lies in a broad valley surrounded 
 by porphyritic hills almost bursting with mineral wealth. 
 It is one of the oldest mining-camps on the American contin- 
 ent, and wns one of the first places where gold was discovered 
 (1547) in Northern Mexico. It was founded by the Spanish 
 miners Juan de Velasquez , Miguel Iturralde, Venancio de Castro 
 and Bernardo de Santa Ana in 1547. In 1580 it became the 
 seat of government for the territory of Nueva Vizcaya (new 
 Biscay), which then comprised the present Mexican states 
 of Chihuahua , Coahuila , and Sonora , and Texas, New r Mexico, 
 Arizona, Colorado, and California (in the U. S. A.). For half 
 a century before the Pilgrims reached Plymouth Rock, it w’as 
 the centre of great mining activity. It is noted for its big 
 smelters and reduction works, chief among which are those 
 of the Guggenheim Syndicate and the Montezuma Co. For 
 many years the locality w^as celebrated among miners for its 
 rich pockets of gold ore, usually found very near the surface 
 of the ground. 
 
 120 K. Borjas. 126 K. Peinado. 129 K. Cuevas. 134 K. 
 Stalforth. 147 K. Paloma. 
 
 155 K. Rosario, the present terminus of the line, is a mining 
 town of some importance. On the hills beyond are fine forests 
 of valuable wood. 
 
III. NORTH-WESTERN MEXICO 
 
 17. From Douglas (Arizona) to Nacozari (Mexico) . 69 
 
 18. From Naco to Cananea, thence to Nogales ... 69 
 
 Cananea, 71. — The Copper Mines, 72. 
 
 19. From Nogales via Hermosillo to Guaymas ... . 74 
 
 Nogales, 74. — The Magdalena Mining Region, 75. — 
 Planchas de Plata Mine, 75. — Placer Gold-Fields of 
 Santo Domingo, 76. 
 
 20. Hermosillo 77 
 
 Excursions to Las Playitas, La Esmeralda, and La Ver- 
 bena, 77. 
 
 21. Guaymas . 78 
 
 Guaymas Bay, 79. — Fishing, 79. — Sonora State, 80. — 
 
 The Yaqui Indians, 81. — History, 81. — Lost Mines. 82. 
 
 22. Lower California 84 
 
 Magdalena Bay, 85. — La Paz, 86. — Pearls and Pearl 
 Fishing, 87. 
 
 23. From Guaymas via Navojoa, Culiacan, Mazatlan 
 
 and Tepic to Guadalajara ......... 89 
 
 Culiacan Rosales, 89. 
 
 24. State of Sinaloa 90 
 
 Mazatlan, 90. 
 
 25. State of Naj^arit ............ 92 
 
 Tepic City 91. — The Huichol Indians, 92, — The Cora 
 Indians, 95. 
 
 17. From Douglas ( Arizona ) to Nacozari (Mexico). 
 
 A railway (Ferrocarril de Nacozari) runs S. from Doug- 
 las (Arizona) to 77 M. Nacozari , via the stations (unimportant) 
 of Agua Prieta (on the Mex. side), 22 K. Cabullona — 33 K. 
 Cima — 53 K. Fronteras — 68 K. Cuchuta — 73 K. Yzabel — 
 80 K. Turicachi — 89 K. Cos — 100 K. El Tajo — 105 K. 
 San Nicolas — 112 K. Purica — 113 K. Hidalgo — 116 K. 
 Churunibabi and 124 K. Nacozari , a celebrated mining-camp 
 to the S.-E. of the famous camp of Cananea , described at 
 p. 71. For a time-table of trains consult the GuiaOficial. For 
 customs formalities see p. L 
 
 18. From Naco to Cananea (thence to Nogales). 
 
 39 M. Railway (Southern Pacific Railroad of Mexico) in 2 hrs., 
 
 one train daily. Fare 1st cl. $4.45 Mex. The El Paso (Texas) and South- 
 western Rly. passes the frontier town of Naco (243 M. from El Paso) 
 and connects there with the So. Pac. of Mexico Rly. Both lines enter 
 
70 Route 18. 
 
 NACO TO CANANEA 
 
 the same station at Naco (U. S. A.). Unless passengers hold through ) 
 tickets to Cananea the train conductor collects 25 c. for the short trip I 
 between Naco (U. S. A.) and Naco, Mexico. Luggage is transferred 1 
 from one train to the other without charge. Before reaching the station fl 
 on the Mex. side of the frontier, native customs-officers pass through the I 
 cars and examine hand-luggage in the seats. A health officer also asks I 
 passengers’ names and writes them in a book. Whoever may have come 1 
 direct from some disease-infected town in the U. S. A. is likely to be de- 
 tained (one week) in quarantine — cuarentena. Trunks are removed 
 into the station at Naco, Mex., and examined there. Passengers are ad- 
 vised to personally superintend the inspection of their belongings. Ample 
 time is allowed, there are no fees, and the examination is prompt, cour- 
 teous and lenient. The rly. fare from El Paso to Cananea is (approx.) 
 $13.59 U. S. money. Pullman, S3. 75. 
 
 Leaving Mexico through Naco, the American customs-officers board the 
 train on the Mex. side and examine hand-luggage. Trunks are inspected 
 in the station on the Mex. side. Passengers bound for El Paso are ad- 
 vised to secure a folder of the E. P. & S.-W. Rly. and note the Pullman 
 regulations. On certain trains Pullmans may be taken on at Douglas, 
 Arizona, and east-bound passengers will do well to telegraph (25 c. for 
 10 words) to D. for accommodations. The dining-car service (a la carta) 
 on these trains is recommended. 
 
 Naco Hotel (comp. p. xlvii) in Naco, Mex. ($2-$4 a day Mex. jj 
 money, Am. PI.). If for any reason the traveller finds himself obliged to j 
 remain in Naco several days, he can perhaps spend the time more ad- 
 vantageously by going to Bisbee (Ariz.), 1 hr. by train, E. from Naco 
 on the El. P. & S.-W. Rly. The Copper Queen Hotel (erected by the rich 
 Copper Queen Mining Co. for the convenience and comfort of its officers) 
 is one of the best in the region. Rooms S1-S4 Am. money. Meals o 
 la carta, at moderate prices. As rooms are sometimes difficult to secure, 
 it is advisable to “ wire ” (25 c. for 10 words) or telephone (50 c. for five 
 minutes’ conversation). The town of Bisbee. high in the copper-bearing 
 hills, is very picturesque,, and is well worth a visit. The hotel is within 
 two min. walk of the station. 
 
 The train for Cananea traverses a fine rolling district in 
 which rich prairie-land and foothills alternate. The line runs 
 toward the south-west, with a constant up grade. There are 
 but few stations and these are usually isolated. During and 
 after the rainy season (June-Sept.) a host of beautiful wild- 
 flowers deck the plains hereabout, and the herds of half-wild 
 cattle which roam them find excellent pasturage in the rich, 
 yellow buffalo-grass. Blue-peaked mountains are visible on 
 the sky-line and double strings of wild-fowl are fugitive fea- 
 tures in the landscape. As we ascend toward Cananea , the 
 view backward to the Arizona mountains is beautiful. The 
 air is usually very clear, and mountains 200 or more miles 
 away appear to be almost within walking distance. 
 
 In the fine atmosphere of these highlands the inhabitants 
 (chiefly Indians) attain to remarkable longevity. Here the 
 elder members of an Indian community resemble animated 
 mummies, and are usually too old to remember their age. 
 At the rly. stations one occasionally sees crones as ugly as 
 witches, looking as if they never had been young, and with a 
 total lack of feminine charms. These primitive owners of the 
 soil cling tenaciously to the traditions of their race, regard 
 the whites as interlopers, defy the microbe theory by living 
 in vermin-infested huts and usually reach twice the age of 
 
CANANEA 
 
 18. Route. 71 
 
 their civilized and more refined conquerors. They are living 
 proofs of the truism that Nature is strictly material; that 
 physical growth takes precedence over and outlives the in- 
 tellectual, and that the alleged civilization of the whites is 
 accorded a briefer existence on earth than that allowed to the 
 unthinkably ancient dynasties of the tinted races. 
 
 Del Rio Station, at Kilometro 48, is the junction of the line 
 for Nogales and points on the Sonora Rly. (p. 74, Rte. 19). 
 
 The main line winds up the hill to 39 M. Cananea, see be- 
 low. 
 
 Cananea, 
 
 Arrival. The railway station is on the East Mesa, about £ M. from 
 the hotels. The Smelter and the company reservation lie on the sloping 
 hillside to the W. — Midway between, in the hollow, is the business 
 centre called Ronquillo. Cab-fare to any of the hotels or the Ron - 
 quillo Post-Office (in the centre of the town) 50 c. Mex., per person. To 
 the town of Chivatera (behind the hill on which the smelter stands) 
 SI Mex. $3 pfer hr. Prices include hand-luggage. Trunk checks had best 
 be given to the hotel manager, who will see that luggage is delivered. 
 
 The Ferrocarril Sud-Pacifico de Mexico continues in a N.-W. direction 
 from Cananea to (140 K.) Nogales (p. 74). 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). There is but little choice between the Cananea 
 hotels. The Hotel Sonora is nearest to the rly. station, on the East Mesa 
 — a plain overlooking the valley. Rooms $2 to $4 a day; meals SI, The 
 Hotel Alexandria, on the edge of the Mesa overlooking Ronquillo, with 
 rooms at S3 and meals at Si, is a bit nearer the town. Furnished rooms 
 are to be had in a number of private dwellings, at from $2 to $4 a day. 
 Window signs announce such places. 
 
 Restaurants. Certain of those operated by Chinese are popular with 
 foreigners. That of the Hotel Plaza , about £ M. from the rly. station is 
 well spoken of. 
 
 Those whose business calls them to the Smelter, the Mining-Camps or 
 to the lower town of Ronquillo, can economize time by either engaging a 
 room in the latter place or on the Mesa, and dining at one of the many 
 short-order restaurants in Ronquillo. Distances ar.e considerable and the 
 cab-hire is usually 50 c. from Ronquillo to the Mesa. The restaurants are 
 usually managed by Americans or Chinese. Meals generally cost $1. Ask 
 for Ranch eggs and milk, as these are nearly always fresh. 
 
 American money passes current throughout the town; $1 generally 
 represents $2 Mex. When prices are quoted the traveller should ask 
 whether Am. or Mex. money is meant. 
 
 Banks. Compania Bancaria Mercantil de Cananea. 
 
 Auto Stage Lines run to various outlying towns; for fares, times of de- 
 parture, etc., consult the hotel manager.. Autos and Pack Outfits for country 
 trips usually can be had. 
 
 La Cananea (Canaan) is a modern and prosperous mining- 
 town due to the development of the mines (copper) of the 
 Cananea Consolidated Copper Company. The population. 
 20,000 (about \ of which are Americans), is of a floating char- 
 acter. The miners (a very cosmopolitan lot) are drawn from 
 the mining-centres of Colorado, Arizona, New Mexico, and 
 Mexico. Many of the houses are of a primitive kind, narrowly 
 escaping being huts. The town is divided into three districts: 
 
 The East Mesa (table-land), where the chief hotels, the rly. 
 station and many residences are; Ronquillo (husky), in the 
 hollow, with its Main Street, Post-Office , Company Reservation , 
 etc . ; and, to the left of this, a tali hill, The South Mesa , known 
 
72 Route 18. 
 
 CANANEA 
 
 Mines. 
 
 as Old Cancinea, covered with small, box-like shanties, the 
 homes of some of the men who toil in the mines and smelters. 
 
 The Company Reservation , beyond the post-office on the 
 slope of the hillside, contains some first-class houses; notable 
 among them the Cananea Club (card of invitation from some 
 member) ; the company’s store, bank, assay-office, etc. No 
 dwelling or commercial establishment can be erected within 
 this reservation without the consent of the company. The 
 Gigantic Smelter and some of the mines lie against, and in, 
 the hill beyond the Reservation, while over the hill, on other 
 hills and in the intervening valleys, are the mining-camps of 
 Chivatera (shepherdess) ; Puertecitos (little ports) ; and camps 
 containing almost as many inhabitants as Cananea. Excellent 
 roads, cut out of the mt. side, connect the several camps. 
 
 For $2 a saddle-horse can be hired (several stables in Can- 
 anea) and a very picturesque trip (recommended where time 
 will permit) made to the different camps and mines beyond 
 the hill. Beside offering splendid views of the surrounding 
 country the ride enables one to get an adequate idea of the 
 magnitude of this mining-centre — one of the greatest copper- 
 producing camps in the world. The usual charge for a horse 
 is SI an hour. Two hrs. are sufficient to inspect the district. 
 The roads are easily followed and a guide is unnecessary. 
 Many strong horses, of the military type, are used in and 
 about the camps. 
 
 The Mines are situated on the northern slope of the Cananea 
 Range — a group of squat mountains six to ten miles wide 
 and about 25 miles long, running in a general N.-W. and S.-E. 
 direction. The richest section lies along the southern half of 
 the range and comprises a vast mineral zone reaching to 
 Puertecitos Pass — a deep gap that divides the mountains 
 into two distinct portions. At some period in the world’s 
 history, this range was intensely volcanic and there existed 
 here a cyclopean workshop where unthinkable powers fused 
 and manufactured the rich and varied ores for which the 
 district is celebrated. The ores of the different mines vary in 
 character and value. That from the group of mines contiguous 
 to the Cananea Smelter is silicious and occurs in a quartzite 
 gangue or an altered quartz porphyry. The ore bodies of this 
 district consist of great masses of chalcopyrite and its second- 
 ary products; glance, malachite (small souvenirs of which 
 are sold in the curio stores, comp. p. lxix), cuprite, native 
 copper, etc. They are probably the largest contact deposits 
 ever discovered. The Cananea Consolidated Copper Company 
 (owners and managers of many of the other companies) own 
 more than 5,000 pcrtenencias (claims) in the vicinity of Can- 
 anea. The extent of their holdings will be better understood 
 when one recalls that a single perteneneia, as defined by the 
 
Mines. 
 
 CANANEA 
 
 18. Route 73 
 
 Mexico Mining Law , constitutes “a solid block of unlimited 
 depth, defined above ground by that part of the surface which, 
 in horizontal projection, gives a square with sides 100 meters 
 (330 feet) long and bounded underground by the four vertical 
 planes corresponding to the same.” 
 
 In the Cananea district (which is enormously rich in min- 
 erals) the vein outcrops are the prominent features of the land- 
 scape in the vicinity of the mines now under exploitation. 
 The almost unlimited masses of iron ores form high ridges of 
 rough brown rock traceable for long distances along the slopes. 
 The drifts and tunnels driven in the veins disclose large masses 
 of native copper, carbonates and oxide ores. As the gossan cap 
 (a Cornish term meaning iron capping of a vein) is penetrated, 
 the ore beneath is found to consist of pyrite and chalcopyrite 
 mixed with earthy and soft black copper glance. The main 
 crest and summits of the range consist of quartzites, hornfels, 
 marble, adinoles, etc. The bedded andesitic tuffs and breccias, 
 forming the lower foothills and mesas to the east of the range, 
 are the ejected rocks and andesitic ash of the old volcano, 
 at one time characterized by great activity. 
 
 Some of the mines show outcroppings of garnetiferous rock, 
 carrying carbonates, oxide and the native metal. This is 
 derived from veins of chalcopyrite ore, as is shown by the 
 working tunnel of the Cananea mine, where a vein 30 feet wide 
 consists of an upward stratum of altered impure limestone 
 heavily charged with chalcopyrite and zinc-blende. This 
 interesting bed occurs beneath a layer of white marble. 
 
 The ore bodies in mines quite contiguous differ curiously 
 from each other. That of the Capote mine (passed on the road 
 leading up to the hill-top) is unusually large and consists 
 of a mass of quartzite and crushed porphyry altered by some 
 stupendous force of Nature to a white clayey mineral and 
 carrying scarf-like masses, strings and bunches of soft black 
 copper glance, with a residue of pyrite. 
 
 The principal mines are the Cananea, Cobre Grande (Big 
 Copper), Veta Grande (Big Vein), Oversight, Capote (Cape) 
 Elisa, Henrieta , Puertecitos (see p. 72) and the Elenita 
 (Little Ellen) . Most of these are connected by a surface rail- 
 way 15 kilom. long. The mineral output of the mines is 
 estimated at more than 3,000 tons daily. Several thousand 
 men are employed, working in 8-hour shifts; three shifts 
 during the 24 hours. The monthly pay-roll is estimated at 
 half a million dollars. The smelter runs day and night. It 
 is 312 feet long, 99 feet wide, with a boiler-house 245 feet 
 long. Its daily output of smelted copper is about 90 tons. 
 Six hundred men are employed in this building and two 
 hundred tons of coal are consumed daily. The tall chimney, 
 from which a dense volume of smoke pours constantly, is 
 200 feet high. 
 
74 Route 19. NOGALES TO GUAYMAS 
 
 Nogales. 
 
 19. From Nogales via Hermosillo to Guaymas. 
 
 FERROCARRIL SUD PACIFICO DE MEXICO. 
 
 427 K. Frequent trains (consult the rly. folder) in about 10 hrs. Fare, 
 including Pullman, S13.20 U. S. monej*. The rly. is a prolongation of the 
 Southern Pacific System of the U. S. A. ; the eventual terminal is at Guadala- 
 jara (p. 161), where connection will be made with the National Rlvs. of 
 Mexico for all parts of the Repub. — Trains are run on Sonora time, which 
 is 23 min. slower than the Mt. time used at Nogales, Ariz. Refreshment 
 Rooms at appropriate stations. Delicious oranges can always be had at 
 Nogales, Carbo, and Hermosillo (and at certain of the other stations), along 
 with fine peaches, pomegranates and other fruits in season. 
 
 Nogales (8S M. — 5 hrs. train ride S.-W. of Benson, Ariz., and 75 M. — 
 3 hrs. ride S. of Tucson) is the S. terminus of both of these branches of the 
 S. P. Rly., and the N. terminus of the Sud Pacifico de Mexico; and is the point 
 of departure for towns and cities on the W. Coast of Mexico and for those 
 of the Peninsula of Lower California, described at p. 84. Pullman cars run 
 through from Los Angeles to Mazatl&n. The Rly. Stations on the Mex. 
 and Amer. sides at Nogales are within a few yards of each other; no charge 
 for transfer of luggage. Several hotels lie within 3 min. walk of the station 
 — the Evans, Bowman, Montezuma, and Brickwood, on the Amer. side; and 
 the Central and Amadie on the Mex. side. Rooms from SI. 50 up. Meals 
 at any of the several good restaurants on either side of the International 
 Line. Tourists will perhaps find it to their advantage to buy travellers* 
 requisites before crossing the line, as the shops on the West Coast are not 
 always supplied with just the articles most Americans require. These, with 
 Guidebooks, Spanish Grammars, Methods, Interpreters, newspapers, 
 magazines, etc., are on sale at the Sonora News Co Store, on Morley Ave. 
 Cigars and cigarettes can be bought to better advantage on the Mex. side. 
 
 Autos meet trains, but the distances in the city are so short that the 3 * are 
 not necessary. Autos for country trips can be arranged for with the help of 
 the hotel manager. The traveller may like to remember that over the line, 
 in Mexico, Mexican monev a:id prices rule. 
 
 American money can be exchanged for Mexican at any of the several 
 banks, or at the Sonora News Co. store on Morley Avenue. 
 
 Nogales (walnut trees), on the southernmost edge of Ari- 
 zona, 3,863 ft. above sea level, with a pop. of 9,383 (for the 
 twin cities of Nog. Ariz. and Nog. Mex.) is known as the Key 
 City, from its strategic position astride the International Line 
 at the gateway to the immensely rich West Coast Region. It 
 is a hustling, bi-lingual, non-partisan, friendly place, with a 
 drv, healthful climate, warm days and cool nights, and an 
 undoubted future. The city merchants do an ever-increasing 
 trade with the people on the Mex. side of the line; buyers often 
 travelling a thousand miles from the south to do their trading 
 on the American side. Spanish is spoken in most of the stores, 
 and were it not for the difference in the style of architecture, 
 one town could easily be mistaken for the other. Simple pass- 
 port restrictions to conform to local conditions are enforced, 
 but the alert officials on both sides of the border do their duty 
 without hampering the interchange of courtesies and com- 
 modities. 
 
 The Nogales Climate is almost perfect, with warm, sunny 
 days and cool, sleepful nights that are a delight. The altitude 
 offsets, in a way, the latitude, so that a temperature in Nogales 
 of 100 degrees is about the equivalent of 80 in New England. 
 
MAGDALENA DISTRICT 19. Route. 75 
 
 The dry quality of the air makes it a sort of open air sanitarium 
 favorable to people with pulmonary troubles. 
 
 The city has many fine homes and substantial business 
 houses. It is a fire-proof place in the sense that the erection 
 of frame structures is forbidden. The country roundabout is 
 adapted for cattle raising and farming. With irrigation the 
 land produces abundantly; the almost constant sunshine 
 bringing crops to maturity while howling blizzards sweep 
 across the East and North. The mineral wealth of the region 
 is extensive and is practically undeveloped. 
 
 The local Chamber of Commerce or any of the several banks 
 will forward pamphlets descriptive of Nogales and its pos- 
 sibilities. 
 
 The railway penetrates the Mex. State of Sonora , climbs a 
 stiffish grade and trends almost due S. across a country differ- 
 ing but little from southern Arizona. We pass the unimportant 
 stations of 5 K. Lomas and 11 K. Encina, where we cross the 
 divide (at an elevation of 4,288 ft.) between the Gila River and 
 the Gulf of California. 20 K. Agua Zarca (3,816 ft.). 
 
 41 K. Casita , near the Casita Canon , a rocky gorge between 
 the Pineta , Cibuta and Guacomea Mts. Attractive views of a 
 landscape with many sycamore trees. 
 
 48 K. Quijano. The wagon trail which leads from this 
 point runs to (12 M.) the camp of the Columbia Consolidated 
 Mines Co. (formerly Hay’s Camp), where Amer. capital is 
 developing extensive mines and lumber deposits. Horses 
 •can be obtained with the help of the station agent. — 55 K. 
 Cumeral. 
 
 68 K. Imuris, celebrated locally for a mineral spring to 
 which the Indians attribute curative properties. N.-E. of the 
 station is the Cocospera region with rich mines and vast, pro- 
 ductive haciendas. 76 K. Pierson. We traverse the broad 
 Valley of the Magdalena (river) noted for its delicious peaches. 
 62 K. San Ignacio. 
 
 87 K. Magdalena (2,460 ft.), with 3,000 inhab., in the centre 
 of a rich mining and agricultural region. The main section of 
 the town lies about 1 M. to the left. Hotels Sonora and Aleman, 
 $1.50 European Plan. Auto from the station 25 c.; trunks 
 50 c. During the first week of Oct. a fiesta is held at Magdalena 
 in honor of San Francisco Xavier, tutelar santo of the town. 
 Many Indians and Mexicans make long pilgrimages to be 
 present at this time; some come on foot, some in wagons and 
 on burros, some by auto and many by the accommodation 
 trains which the Rlv. Co. runs for this occasion. The region 
 roundabout is excellent for fruit growing, and figs, pome- 
 granates, peaches, and other delicious fruits are a specialty. 
 
 That part of Sonora known to the mining world as the Magdalena 
 District begins about 20 M. south of Nogales and extends far to the 
 south of the town whence it derives its lame. It is one of the richest 
 mining regions of the Mex. Republic. 1/ any of the more valuable prop- 
 
76 Route 19. NOGALES TO GUAYMAS 
 
 Mines. 
 
 erties, notably the Planchas de Plata (silver plates) , the Cocospera, the 
 Higuera (fig-tree) and the Cerro Prieto (black-hill) were exploited during 
 the early Spanish occupation and immense treasure taken from them. 
 According to the Jesuit historians the Planchas de Plata mine was 
 discovered in 1739 by a Yaqui Indian who revealed its location to a Span- 
 ish trader. Its almost fabulous richness soon attracted the attention not 
 only of Spain but of all Europe as well. Jesuit missionaries were the first 
 to work the mine. Says one of the old chroniclers: “At a depth of a few 
 yards, in the bed of a canon cutting down the side of the mountain, we 
 found masses of pure silver, globular in form, weighing from cne to two 
 arrobas — 25 to 50 lbs. Several pieces weighing 20 arrobas (500 lbs.) were 
 taken out, and one piece, found by a man from Guadalajara , weighed 
 21 arrobas (525 lbs.). As no animal could carry so great a weight as a 
 pack, an ingenious contrivance was employed for its transportation. 
 A litter was swung between two pack-mules, the mass of metal was raised 
 into the branches of a tree, the animals led underneath and the load 
 lowered to the place designed for it.” 
 
 Six miles north of the Planchas de Plata mine are the Promontorio 
 Mines t owned also by Americans. 
 
 Some 50 M. east of Magdalena station, beyond the junction of the 
 Santo Domingo and Dolores rivers, is the canon of the Santo Domingo 
 and the great placer gold-fields of the same name. A few miles further 
 up-stream is an extensive auriferous deposit known as La Bresca (the 
 honeycomb), extraordinarily rich in gold, which metal is found for nearly 
 15 M. along the river’s channel. Much of the gold that went in the treas- 
 ure-laden galleons that sailed from Acapulco to Spain during the Spanish 
 occupation of Mexico, came, it is said, from this region. Before the ad- 
 vent of the Conquist adores, the Aztecs are said to have worked the mines 
 and to have conveyed to Montezuma's treasury at Anahuac the great 
 amount of gold which tempted Cortes to so much inhumanity. 
 
 The Cerro Prieto mines are located near the confluence of the Santo 
 Domingo and the Dolores rivers. The Black Mt. in which they lie is a 
 lofty ridge of dark limestone more than a mile in length. Through this 
 ridge runs a great porphyry dyke, rich in gold ore. 
 
 South of Magdalena the line traverses a region thickly 
 sprinkled with the many species of cacti (comp. p. lxxxi) for 
 which Sonora is celebrated ; during and after the rainy season, 
 when all the plants are in bloom, the scene is one of singular 
 beauty. Those who love the “painted desert ” and its silent 
 but none the less impressive majesty would perhaps never 
 tire of this broad sweep of semi-wild country with its splendid 
 Pitahayas, its Wolf’s Candles, nopal, agave and many other 
 species of flowering, flaming, prickly, aggressive and ever in- 
 teresting cacti. Long eared jack-rabbits, pudgy prairie-dogs, 
 snooping coyotes, skirling hawks and a repulsive congress of 
 horned toads, lizards, snakes and owls people the sunlit land. 
 Serrated hills cut the sky-line and delimn the desert with tur- 
 quois bands. Many of the tall organ cacti are perforated by 
 woodpecker-holes. 94 K. Lorenzo. 106 K. Santa Ana. 129 K. 
 Llano. 147 I\. Norm. 154K .Puerto. 167 K . Querobabi (2,160ft., 
 point of departure for the Tuape district). 1S9 K. Poza (ship- 
 ping centre for the Opedepe region). 
 
 209 K. Carbo (1,523 ft.). Rly. restaurant (good meal, 75 c. 
 U. S. money). Much of the ore from the San Miguel , the 
 Sultana , and other mines is brought here for shipment. 
 
 243 K. Pesqueira, a shipping point for various contiguous 
 mines and for broad haciendas which flank the San Miguel 
 River in its course to the E. 
 
HERMOSILLO 20. Route. 77 
 
 272 K. Union. We leave the main line and proceed (10 K.) 
 to the r. to 282 K. Hermosillo, see below. 
 
 20, Hermosillo. 
 
 Arrival. The main part of the town and the hotels lie about 1 M. to the 
 E. of the station. Fare by cab 25 c. (50 c. at night) ; by auto 50 c.; trunks 
 25 c. and 50 c., according to size; hand luggage free. Cabs within the town 
 SI per hr.; autos S3. 50 and $4. All in American money, likewise the prices 
 quoted below. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). Arcadia, facing the Calle Serdan; Hotel Cohen , 
 on the Calle Hidalgo; SI. 50 to $2.50 a day, European Plan. 
 
 Banks. Banco Nacional de Mexico. Agenda Sonora Bank & Trust Co.; 
 Banco Miner ia y Agricola de Sonora. 
 
 Trains usually stop 10-20 min. Meals in the restaurant, 75 cents. 
 
 Hermosillo (little beauty), an adequately named city 
 (capital of the State of Sonora) 90 M. N. of Guaymas, on a 
 broad plain (693 ft. above the sea) near the Sonora River 
 below its junction with the Rio San Miguel, occupies a pictur- 
 esque situation almost athwart the entrance to a wild canon 
 through which the river flows (between the Cerro de las Cam- 
 panas, and the Cerro de los Cerros). At the upper limit of the 
 city (pop. 25,000) stands a peak of whitish gray marble (sim- 
 ilar to that found in many parts of the state), which, when 
 struck, gives forth a clear, bell-like sound. From this cir- 
 cumstance Sonora (sonorous) derives its name. 
 
 Hermosillo is locally celebrated for its superb winter climate, 
 and its fine fruits — oranges predominating. The short rainy 
 season begins in July and ends in Sept. There is some pre- 
 cipitation in Dec. and Jan. The orange groves in the plazas 
 and parks (of which there are four), and the groves of dates, 
 palms, and orchards of lemons, limes and tangerines, impart a 
 semi-tropical aspect very pleasing to northern eyes. Orange 
 and vegetable growing are the chief local industries; both are 
 almost entirely in the hands of industrious Chinese. Several 
 hundred carloads of oranges are shipped each year to Canadian 
 points. Figs, pomegranates, melons, sugar-cane, and many 
 beautiful roses grow in the environs. 
 
 The Cathedral, the official seat of the Bishop of Sonora, 
 faces the Plaza de Armas, is of modern construction, and con- 
 tains but little to interest the tourist. The Palacio del Estado 
 (cost $300,000) overlooks the same plaza, and is the state 
 capitol. The Palacio Federal, on the Calle Serdan, houses the 
 Post- Office, Gov’t Telegraph- Office, and the federal admin- 
 istrative offices. — The Parque Madero, comprising several 
 acres, with many lovely roses and sub-tropical trees and 
 shrubs, is the favorite promenade. At the upper end of the 
 Park is the State School (cost $300,000). 
 
 Our train makes a circle near the depot, returns to Union , 
 then proceeds southward over the main line, passing two 
 unimportant stations near by. 
 
 324 K. Torres (junction of the Torres & Prietas Rly.) is the 
 
78 Route 21. 
 
 GUAYMAS 
 
 point of departure for La Colorada and the famous La Colo- 
 rado , Creston Colorada , and the Prietos Mines. 
 
 379 K. Ortiz , one-time point of departure for the San 
 Marcial coal fields, now the rly. station for the Military Head- 
 quarters of the State (at La Misa), 15 M. to the E. Ortiz is 
 also the starting place for the milling camps of Suaqui Grande , 
 Cumuripa , La Dura, La Bufa, and other points beyond the 
 central reaches of the Yaqui River. 
 
 418 K. Empalme. The shops and general offices of the 
 operating department of the S. P. Ply. of Mexico are located 
 here. The town is modern and American in every respect, and 
 is owned entirely by the Rly. Co. Several hundred Americans 
 make their homes here, and an up-to-date American school is 
 generously maintained by the Rly. Co. for the education of 
 American children. — From Empalme the line trends toward 
 the right, crosses an arm of Guaymas Bay, and proceeds (10 K.) 
 to 428 K. Guaymas (see below). For a description of thi 
 West Coast Route, Guaymas via Navojoa, Culiacan, Mazatlan 
 and Tepic to Guadalajara, see Rte. 23 (p. 89). 
 
 21. Guaymas. 
 
 Arrival. The business section of the port is about 10 min. walk from the 
 depot, and is connected therewith by tram-cars. Cabs and autos meet all 
 trains; fare 25 c. U. S. gold. Hand luggage free; trunks 25-50 c. — Autos 
 in the city SI per hr. Launch hire on the Bay, S2 the hr. All prices advance 
 on Sundays and di'is de fiesta. If there are several trunks, hand checks to 
 the hotel manager, who will perhaps get them brought up at a lower price. 
 
 Hotels (comp, xlvii). Hotel Albin, between the station and the city; 
 Hotel Almada, near the town. Hates in each, from $1.50 and up (rooms 
 only); meals 75 c. All in Am. gold. 
 
 Banks. The Banco Nacional de Mexico is the correspondent of the Mexico 
 City Banking Corporation. 
 
 Bookstores. Amer. newspapers, guides, magazines, American specialties, 
 etc., the Sonora News Co. 
 
 Arrival by Sea. Steamers anchor in the harbor, quite near to the wharf. 
 Boats to and from ships 25 c. per pers. Trunks 25 c. Am. gold. Where there 
 are a number of persons and several trunks a special rate can be arranged for 
 with the boatman. 
 
 Steamship Agents. Compania Naviera de los Estados de Mexico (The 
 Mexican States Line), J. A. McPherson & Co., agents. — Compania 
 Naviera Mexicana (Mexican Navigation Co.), Sres. W. Iberri e Hijos, 
 Sues. — The fine big, fast, popular and comfortable ships of both of these 
 well-known companies make Guaymas a frequent port of call and carry 
 travellers to the chief ports of California (connections at San Francisco 
 with steamers for Northern Pacific Ports and the Orient) at the north, and j 
 Mexican Ports at the south (connections at Salina Cruz with steamers for 
 Central and South America, the Panama Canal and European and Atlantic 
 Ports 1 . Itineraries, etc., on application to any of the company agents. 
 
 Guaymas, on the bay ( bahia ) of the same name, with 15,000 
 inhab., occupies a mountainous peninsula which terminates 
 in the Cabo de Haro, 5 M. from the central plaza. The time- 
 stained houses are Spanish-Moorish, the streets are narrow and 
 tortuous, and the plaza, with its fine palms and flowers, is at- 
 tractive. Many of the stores are managed by Chinese, of which 
 there are some 2,000 in the port. The summer climate is some- 
 what trying to the uninitiated. The rainy season (July-Sept.) 
 
Fishing . 
 
 GUAYMAS 
 
 21. Route. 79 
 
 produces a muggy heat which is a bit uncomfortable. Winter 
 is the best time to visit the port; then the nights are cool and 
 the minimum temperature is about 67° Fahr. The barren 
 hills behind the town act as reflectors of the heat, which the 
 inhabitants of the place exclude from their houses by means 
 of thick walls. The Parochial Church of San Fernando (facing 
 the plaza ) is uninteresting. 
 
 The Bay is land-locked, dotted with islands and filled with 
 fish (see below). The inner harbor (called El Pozo) affords 
 anchorage for ships drawing up to 14 ft. Bald hills encircle it 
 on three sides. Ships make the inner harbor by threading the 
 channel which separates the islands of Almagre Grande and 
 La Ardilla. Across the bay from the muelle are the remains of 
 a fortress erected by the French during their occupation of the 
 pert. The sunrise and sunset effects from the hills about 
 the port are unusually gorgeous. Bathing in the bay is pop- 
 ular, and the occasional sharks seen therein appear to have 
 no taste for the bathers. Consult the hotel manager regard- 
 ing the best bathing-places. 
 
 Many writers have tried to describe the beautiful Bay of Guaymas. 
 Says one ( John C . Van Dyke ) : 
 
 “The Bay of Guaymas is typical of all the gulf bays, and is a fair illus- 
 tration of the coast scenery. It is one of the most beautiful harbors in the 
 world, and the fact that there are never more than a half-dozen vessels at 
 a time lying in it does not hurt its beauty. . . . Bare mountains, 1,500 
 ft. high, surround it and look down upon it, and in the morning, when the 
 harbor water is smooth, their reflections are as clear-cut as though cast 
 in a mirror. The local color of the water is green, but the intense blue of 
 the sky changes it by reflection to a deep cobalt, and the mountains of 
 rock are brown, terra-cotta, rose-color, changed again by sunset light 
 into mounds and spires and pinnacles of gold, crimson, lilac and purple. 
 Day after day there is the blue glow of the clear sky, but at dawn, when 
 there is a haze or a few fleecy clouds, the eastern sky flames with yellow 
 and scarlet, and at sunset brilliant carmines, spectral greens and burning 
 golds stretch in great bands along the gulf horizon, or are reflected from 
 the wind-blown cirrus of the upper sky. From the mountain-tops on clear 
 evenings one can look across to Lower California, ninety miles away, and 
 the contrast of the wide cobalt of gulf with the wide, flaming sky above it 
 is most violent, imposing, awe-inspiring. I have never seen such brilliant 
 sky effects. The normal coloring of the sea and sky and mountains at 
 midday is bright enough, but at dawn and dusk everything is intensified. 
 Nothing on the Mediterranean can surpass in brilliancy the coloring of 
 this western coast. ...” 
 
 Fishing-Trips can be planned to the best advantage by consulting the 
 hotel management. The usual price for a gasoline launch (which will 
 hold 8-10 persons) is $4 an hour. At least 3 hrs. are required for the trip 
 to the wireless telegraph station at the outer edge of the bay. The San 
 Vicente Caves (uninteresting) can be visited on the outward trip. Troll- 
 ing lines are supplied (free) by the boatmen. Bait for line-fishing can 
 always be had of any of the fishing-boats to be found in the bay. When 
 the tide makes in the bay usually teems with fine fish, prominent among 
 them the Tortuoba (a species of sea-bass known in the Southwest 
 as the Colorado River Salmon) ; the Mero, or Jew-fish, the Cabrilla , Boca 
 Dulce , Y ellow-tail, Spanish-mackerel and whatnot. Splendid specimens 
 of the Tortuoba (weighing up to 150 lbs.) are caught daily. Oysters, 
 lobsters (spearing these is considered fine sport), shrimps, etc., are plenti- 
 ful. Guaymas oysters are famous. None are taken from the bay; 
 the good ones are brought from a point near the mouth of the Yaqui 
 
SO Route 21. 
 
 SONORA STATE 
 
 River. Near the latter place are to be found ducks and similar fowl in 
 great numbers. Hunting-trips can be planned with the aid of the hotel 
 manager. 
 
 Sonora (comp. p. 77), one of the most northern of the 
 Pacific Coast States of Mexico, is the second largest in the 
 Repub. ( Chihuahua is first), with an area of 199,244 sqr. 
 kilom. Population 221,682. The capital, Hermosillo, is de- 
 scribed at p. 77. It is bounded on the N. by the United 
 States of North America; on the E. by Chihuahua; on the 
 S. by Sinaloa and on the W. by the Gulf and Territory of 
 Lower California. The Sonora littoral, which is low and arid, 
 extends in a line almost parallel with Lower Cal. and is 
 washed by the Gulf for a distance of 860 kilom. This lit- 
 toral, from the mouth of the Colorado River to the Port 
 of Agiabampo, is indented with salty lagoons and marshes 
 which contain crocodiles (cocodrilos) , alligators ( lagartos or 
 caimanes) and allied reptilia. 
 
 Tiburon (shark) Island (2S M. from N. to S. and 15 M. from 
 E. to W.) lies off the coast almost in a line with Hermosillo 
 and is separated from the mainland by El Canal del Infuernillo 
 (Little Hell Strait). The island is mountainous and culminates 
 in a peak which rises 7,000 ft. above the surrounding sea. It 
 is inhabited by a rude race of Indians (Seris, of the Yuman 
 family, see p. lxii) with anthropophagous instincts. Their 
 canoes are of curious construction; open so that the water 
 enters and remains at the same level as without. The Indians 
 shoot turtles and fish with great skill, using bows and arrows. 
 Poisoned arrows are employed when hunting game or enemies. 
 Visitors to the island are unwelcome. 
 
 The Climate is hot on the coast, supportable on the plains 
 and cool in the mts. During the summer season the thermom- 
 eter often reaches 98° Fahr. ; in Hermosillo and in Guay mas 
 it has reached as high as 119°. The minimum temperature 
 of the winter is 45° Fahr. Frosts occur occasionally in the 
 Sierra Madre region. The rainfall is moderate. Where irriga- 
 tion is resorted to, the land is productive. An alleged peculiar- 
 ity of this region is that rain sometimes falls from a serene 
 and cloudless sky: a statement for which the author of this 
 handbook cannot vouch. 
 
 The River System comprises the Yaqui , Altar (also called 
 Asuncion ), San Igndcio , Mayo , Sonora , Moctezuma , San 
 Miguel, Bavispe and several streams of lesser importance. 
 
 The Fauna and Flora, remarkable for their wealth and 
 variety, embrace a number of special species, as well as many 
 common to the rest of the Repub. The Gulf of California 
 (p. 84), noted for its fish and pearl oysters, produces gems 
 superior to those of the Gulfs of Aden and Ceylon. Black and 
 grizzly bears infest the mountains, and the mountain lion, 
 ounce, leopard and many smaller animals abound and are 
 
History. SONORA 21. Route. 81 
 
 rarely hunted. Alligator-hunting is one of the most popular 
 sports of the littoral. The Principal Agricultural Products are 
 fruits, sugar-cane, tobacco, cereals, cotton and a great vari- 
 ety of vegetables. Notwithstanding the fertility of the soil, 
 much of the land is uncultivated. 
 
 Mines : Sonora is classed as one of the richest mineral re- 
 gions of the Repub. as well as of the world. The chief products 
 are silver, gold, lead, copper (comp. Cananea, p. 71), coal, 
 iron, antimony, cinnabar, graphite, etc. There are about 
 150 mines, nearly 2,500 mining claims, and an annual mineral 
 output of something like $50,000,000. For further information 
 under this head consult the Sonora Mining Directory published 
 by Findley and McDonald ($1) at Cananea. 
 
 Many Indian Tribes have left their mark on the state. 
 It was long a rendezvous for the treacherous and bloodthirsty 
 Apaches {Athapascan Family) ; unsubjugated bands of Yaquis 
 {Nahuatlan Family) still roam the remoter regions. There are 
 some Indian ruins at Babiocari, and some grottoes with Indian 
 relics at Sahuaripa. The language spoken by the Yaquis is 
 the Cahita, and is referred to in the bibliography at p. ccxl. 
 
 History. The history of Sonora is linked with the history 
 of its mines, for the search for minerals brought the gold- 
 greedy Iberians hither. The ability of a Spanish Conquistador 
 to locate a mine was almost a sixth sense, and the friars who 
 followed in the wake of the great captain — like crows at the 
 heels of a ploughman — possessed a like genius for inducing 
 the untutored and often rebellious Indios not only to disclose 
 their secrets of hidden treasure but to work the deposits for 
 the benefit of the clergy — in the name of the Church. 
 
 Sonora first came into history in the 12th cent., when the 
 wandering Aztecs crossed the district in their long perigrina- 
 tion from the unmapped North to their ultimate home in the 
 Vale of Anahuac (p. clxiv). The land was then in possession 
 of the Nayaritos (comp. p. 93), a populous tribe of the Nahu- 
 atlan family. It was known roundabout for its rich deposits 
 of gold and silver; and two centuries later, when the Aztecs 
 had become welded into a powerful nation, one of their care- 
 fully guarded traditions referred to the land of gold visited by 
 their nomad ancestors. When the Mexicans under Montezuma 
 became powerful and dreaded, the Sonora tribes (according 
 to the early chroniclers) paid a handsome annual tribute, 
 in gold and silver, to the ferocious war-lord in his southern 
 stronghold. One of the keenest desires of the Spanish in- 
 vaders was to locate the source of the vast wealth which they 
 found in Montezuma’s possession, and Cortes sent many ex- 
 peditions in quest of the coveted source. 
 
 One by one the present Mexican States were invaded, con- 
 quered, ransacked and added to the Spanish, Crown Colonies. 
 Baja California, with its fabulously rich pearl fisheries, was 
 
82 Route 21. 
 
 SONORA 
 
 Lost Mines. 
 
 annexed in due course, and in 1530 (9 yrs. after the downfall 
 of T enochtitldn) Pedro Almindez Chirinos came very near to 
 the gold country when he skirted the Sonora littoral and sailed 
 as far north as the mouth of the Yaqui River. 
 
 The first hint the Spaniards in Mexico City received of the 
 actual location of treasure was brought by Cabeza de Vaca 
 (cow’s head), who crossed the eastern corner of Sonora on his 
 celebrated trip to the Florida Everglades. His report of a land 
 where gold and silver could be plucked from the surface of the 
 ground electrified the Viceroy Don Antonio de Mendoza, and 
 filled him with a fever of impatience to go at once to the spot. 
 He commissioned (1540) Francisco Vasquez de Coronado to 
 conquer the country and bring back a load of gold as evidence 
 of success. The region was duly annexed and from that re- 
 mote time it has been' renowned for its wealth-producing 
 mines. In 1785 the Viceroy Matias de Galvez (p. cxcviii) 
 divided New Spain into 12 Intendencias (Districts), one of 
 which comprised the present States of Sonora, and Sinaloa. 
 After Mexican Independence was achieved (1821) they were 
 made (1S23) into separate states. By the Constitution of 1824 
 thev were reunited, to be again sundered by a decree of Oct. 
 13, 1830. 
 
 The history of some of the mines is full of interest. It is related of the 
 famous Quintera Mine (Alamos District), that the owner (Seiior A Imada), 
 on the occasion of the marriage of his daughter, lined the bridal chamber 
 in his palacio with rows of silver bars, and paved, with the same pale, 
 chaste material, the path from the house to the church. The bridal party 
 trod upon fabulous wealth as it proceeded to the altar. 
 
 The Dona Maria Mine (in the Huacal District) was once exploited by 
 a Spanish widow. Dona Maria de Rodriquez, who, during many years of 
 hard work, accumulated great wealth in the shape of ingots. These she 
 stored in a strong and well-guarded room in her dwelling. Deciding to 
 
 E ass the remainder of her life in Spain, she loaded her treasure on the 
 aeks of 40 mules, and, with a small army of retainers, travelled to the 
 City of Mexico. It was estimated that each mule carried 200 lbs. of 
 golcl and silver bars, so that at that time the tangible wealth of the indus- 
 trious vivda was represented by four tons of precious metal. 
 
 According to the old chronicler, this estimable lady did not breathe 
 freely until she had deposited her fortune in the hands of the Spanish 
 Viceroy in the capital; soon thereafter she ceased to breathe entirely, 
 for she suddenly and mysteriously disappeared. The common report was 
 that she had been murdered ana her great fortune appropriated. This 
 seems to have been the case, as the indictment was never successfully 
 disproved. 
 
 One of the mines of the Estrella del Norte Mining Co. (near Arispe) 
 was “ lost ” for many years. The only record touching its location was a 
 notation on an old Jesuit map to the effect that “the opening of the 
 tunnel can be seen from the door of the Mission Church.” For years the 
 hills in front of this door were searched for miles with no results. In 1905 
 aside wall of the old church crumbled to ruins and disclosed a hidden door, 
 w’hose existence had never been suspected. From this door a prospector 
 searched the hill-side with a field-glass, located the lost mine, and found 
 a huge fortune therein. 
 
 The Yaqui Indians were formerly as savage as the Apaches, and many 
 rich mines were long “lost” cecause the miners were killed and prospect- 
 ors were driven away from the region. In 1905—06 the Mexican Govern- 
 ment took a determined stand against these wilful children of the desert* 
 
Old Churches. 
 
 SONORA 
 
 21. Route. 83 
 
 and transported many of them to Yucatan. In consequence many of the 
 minas antiguas are being “ re-discovered ” and princely revenues are being 
 taken from some of them. So crude were the methods of the early Span- 
 iards that the discarded tailings, worked by modern machinery, produce 
 results almost equal to those secured by the first owners. 
 
 Many of the zealous padres of the 17th cent, worked the 
 mines solely for funds with which to build churches and mis- 
 sions. Some of these ancient edifices still remain, “ like fossils 
 of an early ecclesiological strata,” and the antiquary and lover 
 of romantic annals will find much to interest him in these re- 
 lics of the gold-seeking, militant church fathers. The churches 
 in the more inaccessible districts (those which have not suf- 
 fered renovation) are excellent specimens of early Spanish 
 missions in New Spain. Unusually interesting ones are those 
 at Onabas, Tecoripa and Baroyeca. The Baroyeca church owes 
 its existence to the discovery (in 1792) of a rich bonanza, in 
 the Mina Grande, of the Baroyeca Mts. The Franciscan Father, 
 Francisco Joaquin Valdez , early employed some of the pro- 
 ceeds of the mine toward erecting the ch., which was long 
 celebrated for its massiveness and its pleasing architecture. 
 Though now in a ruinous state, one of the main walls still 
 measures over 150 ft. long and 5 ft. thick. The old campanario, 
 60 or more ft. high, with walls 10 ft. thick, is strikingly solid. 
 The belfry, which contains a number of sweet-toned bells, 
 is surmounted by a handsome wrought metal cross tipped 
 with a large star. The word Fortis, all that remains of a 
 Latin inscription, is cut deep into the masonry. Around the 
 mouth of the largest bell is the inscription Maria Purisima de 
 Loreto. The upper part bears the date Marzo 16 de 1646. 
 Another of the bells bears the scarcely legible inscription 
 Sehor San Jose Patriarca, and the date, Marzo 20 de 1643. 
 On the smallest bell is San Rafael Dedicado al Santisimo Sacra- 
 mento and Marzo 25 de 1646. The ch. is in the form of a Latin 
 Cross, with a huge nave and transepts. Adjoining it are roomy 
 chapels, refectories and dormitories. It was often used as a 
 fortress when the miners and clergy were besieged by the In- 
 dians. Prior to 1850 the walls of the santuario and the tras- 
 coro were covered with sheets of pure silver, the product of 
 the famous mine. The sacred altar vessels were of pure gold, 
 and the candelabra, the altar railing and parts of the sanctuary 
 of silver. The ch. stands in a spacious but neglected plaza , 
 flanked by the ruins of the domiciles of the early padres. 
 
 The eternal silence of the unpeopled desert now broods 
 above this relic of former grandeur. It stands in the midst of 
 a broad amphitheatre, surrounded by tall mountains which 
 cut the sky-line with points of blue. The adjacent country is 
 honeycombed with rich mines and the trustful Indians be- 
 lieve that Baroyeca is destined to enjoy a re-incarnation and 
 that the old bells from the tall tower will again call them to 
 vespers and prayer. 
 
84 Route 22. LOWER CALIFORNIA 
 
 22. Lower California. 
 
 The Territory of Lower ( el territorio de baja) California, 
 1,109 kilom. in length and 306 in breadth at its widest point, 
 with a coast-line of 3,000 kilom. and a population of 48,000; 
 northernmost of the Mexican possessions and pertaining po- 
 litically to the Pacific States Division of the Mex. Republic 
 (with a superficial area of 151,109 sqr. kilom.), takes the form 
 of a long and narrow peninsula which extends from N. to S. 
 in the Pacific Ocean for a distance of some 1,500 kilom. It 
 is bounded on the N. by the American State of California, 
 referred to as Upper California, of which it was once a part, 
 and which was wrested from Mexico in 1846 (comp. p. ccx); 
 on the E. by El GoJfo de California (which ranks among the 
 largest of the world) and on the S. and W. by the Pacific 
 Ocean. The line which separates it from the United States 
 begins near Yuma, Arizona, and runs westward across to the 
 Pacific, which it touches a few miles south of San Diego. 
 
 Topographically the peninsula is interesting: a cordillera 
 running near the E. coast traverses it from N. to S., the de- 
 scent on the Gulf side being extremely abrupt, while on the 
 Pacific side the coast is reached by a succession of low hills. 
 This mountain ridge, which forms the backbone of the country, 
 is a continuation of the coast range of Upper Calif, and is 
 interwoven almost over its entire extent with rich veins of 
 metal. The central region is highly mineralized and fine 
 granite strata are found. Near San Jose and Cape San Lucas 
 there are argentiferous and auriferous outcroppings, and in 
 the municipalidades of La Paz (p. 86), El Triunfo and San 
 Antonio, veins of gold, silver, iron and other substances are 
 found on the surface of the mountains. 
 
 In the distritos of Comondii, Loreto, San Luis and Mulege 
 (pop. 1,041) in the X. region, rich copper-mines exist. The 
 Boleo mines, situated in this part, have for years been one of 
 the chief sources of the world’s copper supply. Mica, iron, 
 tin, gypsum, marble, alabaster and minor substances are also 
 found. Rich deposits of gold were discovered near Santa 
 Gertrudis (X. of Muleg6) in 1884; likewise a solid mountain of 
 iron, rivalling in size the celebrated Iron Mountain (p. 103) 
 of Durango. Elsewhere in the peninsula are found plumbago, 
 sulphuret of lead, porphyry, prismatic p 3 U’ites, sulphur, ox- 
 ide of antimony and lead, carbonate and phosphate of lead, 
 hydroxide of iron and hydrosilicate of copper. Xature has 
 endowed this jejune region with marvellous metallic riches, 
 and mining is one of the most profitable industries. Physi- 
 cally, the territory might be divided into three mineral sec- 
 tions — the X., or gold-bearing; the S., or argentiferous; and 
 the central, or copper region. Various other minerals are found 
 in all these districts. Some of the mines near Santa Rosalia 
 
MAGDALENA BAY 
 
 22. Route. 85 
 
 were worked by the Jesuit fathers as early as 1700. El Mineral 
 del Triunfo is the site of important modern reduction works. 
 Extensive salt deposits occur at Ojo de Liebre (Rabbit’s Eye) 
 as well as at Isla del Carmen and at San Jose, on the Pacific 
 Coast. Large deposits of meerschaum were recently discovered 
 on the island of Santa Margarita in the Bay of Magdalena. 
 
 Magdalena Bay, which was discovered by Francisco de Ulloa in 1539, 
 and which was long a celebrated rendezvous of Spanish galleons, pirates 
 and other adventurers, came into considerable prominence in 1908 as the 
 place where the U. S. A. squadron stopped for target practice on its 
 memorable voyage from New York to San Francisco. Ulloa sought it out 
 in order to verify the tradition that the nearby islands were inhabited by 
 sirens and Amazons. The Bay is formed by the mainland and Santa 
 Margarita Island; it is about 40 M. long by 12 M. wide. The town is of no 
 importance. The harbor is one of the finest on the Pacific Coast. 
 
 The Climate is hot and dry in the N., but more temperate 
 toward the S. Here, where the annual rainfall can be relied 
 upon, and where some irrigation is practised, sugar-cane, 
 flowers and tropical fruits are successfully cultivated. Many 
 species of flowers and ornamental shrubs grow wild; particu- 
 larly in the shaded and humid valleys, where cabinet and dye- 
 woods also flourish. Good oranges grow in the S. district. 
 
 The meagre rainfall and lack of irrigation in the N., limits 
 agricultural productions. Drought, indeed, is the local curse, 
 and for weary months not a drop of rain falls on the parched 
 deserts. The volcanic nature of the region adds an aspect 
 of extreme aridity and desolation. With the exception of the 
 Colorado River at the N., and several insignificant streams in 
 the centre and S., the peninsula is destitute of waterways. 
 In certain districts Spanish Moss ( Tillandsia asneoides Brome- 
 liaceas ) grows and is gathered and used for dyeing purposes. 
 Henequen (comp. p. 583) is found in the central regions, and 
 some hemp is produced adjacent to the Colorado River. 
 
 Many ancient Indian remains, rock-paintings and inscrip- 
 tions have been found in the N. region, which is the present 
 home of the Yuman Family of Indians, comprising about 
 2,500 members. 
 
 The Fauna is limited and differs but little from that of other 
 northern Mexican states. The sperm-whale and otter are found 
 on the W. coast, along with grayback whales, seals and sea- 
 lions. The tepid waters of the Gulf teem with a great variety 
 of fish. Alligators infest the bayous and river-mouths; alliga- 
 tor-hunting being one of the chief sports of the inhabitants 
 of the ports. Huge turtles abound, and tortoises, the shell of 
 which forms an important article of commerce, exist. Sword- 
 fish, sharks, — the latter a constant menace to the pearl 
 fishers (comp. p. 87), — squid and sponges are found; also 
 beautiful coral and the much-prized ambergris. 
 
 For political reasons the Peninsula is divided into two 
 districts — the N. with a pop. of 7,589, and the S. with 40,041. 
 
86 Route 22. 
 
 LA PAZ 
 
 The latter is subdivided into two partidos and seven munici - 
 palidades. The Partido del Sur (S. region) comprises the 
 municipalidades of La Paz, San Antonio, San Jose and Tod os 
 Santos; the Partido del Centro embracing Mulege and Co- 
 mondu. The chief city is La Paz (see below), the capital of 
 the S. district. Ensenada de Todos Santos (All Saints’ Cove) is 
 the chief town of the N. distrito, with a pop. of 3,800. 
 
 La Paz (peace), chief city of the S. district, pop. 6,000, 
 opposite the mainland State of Sinaloa and the port of Altata, 
 220 M. south of Guaymas, and the principal outlet for the 
 products of the country, was discovered in 1542. 
 
 From San Francisco, California, La Paz is best reached by one of the 
 steamers of the Pacific Coast Steamship Company ( Compania de Vapores 
 de la Costa del Pacifico), which operates a monthly service between Cali- i 
 tornia ports and the Mexican port of Guaymas (Sonora), touching at in- 
 termediate ports. The 1st cl. fare by this line from S. F. to La Paz is 
 $50 U. S. currency; time 8 days. Ships stop at Ensenada, San Jose del 
 Cabo, Mazatlan, Altata, and thence go direct across the Gulf to La Paz. 
 From other than Pacific coast points in the United States, La Paz is best 
 reached by rail to Nogales (Arizona), thence by the Ferrocarril de Sonora j 
 to Guaymas; fare from Nogales to Guaymas, first-class. §17.08, time 12 
 hours; distance 427 kilometers (265 miles). For rates of passage and sail- 
 ing dates from Guaymas to La Paz (time two days) address Senores 
 W . Iberri e Hijos, Svoesores , Guaymas, Mexico. 
 
 Proceeding southward from La Paz a steamer is accessible to Mazatlan i 
 or Manzanillo, Mexico. From the latter port, rail connections can be had 
 to Guadalajara (p. 161) and all points in Mexico. 
 
 Despite its somewhat unkempt appearance La Paz is the j 
 most important pearl-fishing town on the Pacific Coast of 
 America, and it ranks as one of the three greatest pearl- \ 
 producing centres of the world. Four fifths of the inhabitants | 
 are Mexican; the rest are American, German, French and ] 
 other nationalities. The principal section of the town lies in 
 a depression along the shore of the bay and almost on a I 
 level therewith. The residence portion, the parochial church, i 
 and the barracks, stand on an elevated mesa which dominates I 
 the lower town. The general aspect of the place is not un- I 
 pleasing, with the pretty Jardin Velasco and the straight I 
 streets bordered by one-story adobe houses and flowering | 
 trees. A line of squat but massive warehouses ( bodegas ) stand I 
 back from the mall, and through their iron-barred windows j 
 comes the omnipresent odor of tons of oyster-shells, stored for u 
 foreign shipment. The town has all the aspect of a fishing- jj 
 port, with the addition of that imparted by the odd diving j 
 accoutrements employed in the search for pearls. On the r 
 whole it looks more material than picturesque, and market- 
 quotations for pearls and pearl-shells provide the theme for I 
 almost all the conversation. 
 
 The public buildings afford but little interest to the trav- 
 eller. The Palacio del Gobierno (municipal building), con- 
 taining the local government offices; the Parochial Churchy j 
 with no pictures of merit; the Hospital Salvatierra f El TeatrOy 
 
LA PAZ 
 
 22. Route. 87 
 
 Pearl Fishing. 
 
 the Carcel (jail) and El Mercado (the market), and the Parque 
 Porfirio Diaz , with a few tropical flowers, are the principal 
 “ sights.” The climate is dry and healthy. Unacclimated 
 travellers are advised to drink boiled or bottled waters. 
 
 History. When Cortes departed from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec 
 in 1526 to explore the southern seas, he first sailed northward and touched 
 the coast of Baja California , which he called Calida Fornax (heated oven). 
 In 1540 the Viceroy Don Antonio de Mendoza sent out an expedition 
 under Francisco de Alarcon and the Spanish pilot Domingo del Castillo. 
 Failing to subdue the natives this expedition was supplemented (1542) 
 by the one which reached La Paz and Magdalena. A third expedition was 
 despatched in 1596, under Capt. Sebastian Viscaino , and in another voyage, 
 made in 1602, the coast of the present State of Sonora was mapped. Esteben 
 Carbonelli, while sailing in the Gulf in 1636, touched at the port of Muleg£ 
 and discovered that for generations pearl-fishing had been practised by 
 the natives. He hastened back to Mexico to report his find. Within a 
 year the peninsula was overrun with adventurers, accompanied by Friars 
 of the Compafda de Jesus , who took possession of much of the land; 
 their rights were confirmed by an order of Charles III. In 1720 a mission 
 was established here by the Catholic fathers Ugarte and Bravo % and in 
 1830 La Paz was made the capital of the territory. 
 
 Pearl-Fishing is one of the most important and pictur- 
 esque occupations of the people. Extensive beds ( lechos 
 peril fer os) of pearl-bearing oysters exist near La Paz, and 
 from this port the majority of the pearls are exported. The 
 pearl-fishing season along the inner shore of Lower California 
 begins in July and ends in October; that on the Pacific side 
 begins in March and ends with the advent of the June hurri- 
 canes. The pearl-oyster belongs to the non-edible variety 
 and is neither palatable nor wholesome. Unlike the edible 
 oyster — which is found in extensive and populous beds — 
 the pearl-oysters are scattered over a wide area and must 
 be sought singly, by the divers. Two or more divers will 
 oftentimes work a fortnight to harvest a ton of pearl-bearing 
 shells. The shell of the pearl-oyster ( Avicula margaritifera) 
 differs from the bivalve shell of the edible mollusk ( genus 
 ostrea) in that it is often symmetrically ribbed, sometimes 
 as large as a disc 15 or more inches in diameter, and produces 
 the beautiful transparent lining called mother-of-pearl, which 
 is prized for delicate ornamental and inlaid work. The divers 
 — natives inured to the peculiar and trying occupation — 
 bring the shells to the surface in wire baskets adapted to 
 the purpose. One of the American pearl-fishing companies 
 at La Paz employs about a thousand men, and a half-dozen 
 schooners, each of a hundred tons burden. Modern diving- 
 suits are used, and, clad in these, the divers oftentimes remain 
 an hour below the surface of the water. The usual work is 
 done at about five fathoms (30 ft.), albeit divers sometimes 
 go as deep as 18 fathoms. The men soon become deaf, and 
 after a few seasons retire with shattered nerves. A pearl- 
 diver is called a Buzo de perla. Independent divers, who work 
 without diving apparatus, descend by attaching a heavy 
 
88 Route 22. 
 
 LA PAZ 
 
 Pearls . 
 
 stone to their feet. This weight carries them quickly to the ' 
 bottom, where they must work rapidly, as fifty seconds is 
 the average time during which they can remain under water 
 without breathing. Stories of divers who remain under water i 
 for five minutes should be discredited. In addition to the 
 pearl-oysters, all sorts of curious marine animals and plants j 
 are brought up by the divers. 
 
 The Pearl-Hunters are usually men who have outlived j 
 their usefulness as divers. They work in long, open sheds 
 along the shore, near the company’s bodega and under the 
 watchful eye of an inspector. As the shells are opened the 
 workmen insert sensitive fingers and probe for the pearls. ' 
 Hundreds of shells are sometimes searched before a pearl is 
 found. This is formed usually by a minute particle of sand 
 or some irritating material, which the uneasy oyster ( ostra , 
 ostion) covers with the smooth nacre. Certain parasites bore 
 through the shells and when covered make the finest pearls. 
 
 The predominating color of the Pearls found is white, 
 albeit blue, black, green, pink and multi-colored pearls are 
 often encountered. The shapes are as varied as the colors. 
 Pearls with a golden blush, or with a faint bluish or rose tint, 
 are esteemed above the finest white specimens. They are 
 divided into many classes; the price of a good pearl ranging 
 from SI 00 to SI, 000 Mexican silver. Many splendid gems have 
 been found here. Some of the finest ever produced were 
 shipped to Spain soon after the Conquest. When the Spaniards 
 reached the district they found many beautiful pearls in pos- 
 session of the natives. They were astonished to find the rude 
 Indians dwelling in miserable jacales (huts) along the shore 
 but possessing a king’s ransom in gems obtained from the pro- 
 ductive waters of the bay. The Conquistador es immediately 
 enslaved the natives in and near La Paz, named the gulf 
 El Golfo de Cortes (in honor of Hernan Cortes) and established 
 new fisheries for the benefit of the Castilian Crown. Of the 
 amount of pearls secured by the Spaniards no trustworthy 
 records exist. Pedro Sepulveda . Governor of the pearl-fisher- 
 ies of New Spain, reported in 1715 that the total shipment of 
 pearls to Madrid for that year amounted to 1,‘2S0 ounces. J 
 It is believed that the splendid pearls possessed by the Span- j 
 ish Crown, the rare and immensely valuable bluish-tinted 
 pearls in the possession of the Emperor of Austria, and manj I 
 of the finest jewels of European dynasties were drawn from j 
 this source. One of the largest pearls ever found in the waters i 
 of the gulf measured about three fourths of an inch in dia- 
 meter and was sold in Paris, to the Emperor of Austria, for 
 810,000. A black pearl in the possession of Napoleon III came 
 from La Paz. It was valued in Madrid at $25,000 and was 
 presented to the French Government by Spain. A magnificent 
 rose pearl found in the 18th century brought $50,000 in Europe. 
 
GUAYMAS TO GUADALAJARA 23. Rte. 89 
 
 The annual production of pearls is valued at about $3,000,000. 
 Strangers are advised to be on their guard against men clad 
 as pearl-divers who offer ostensibly stolen pearls for sale. 
 
 23. From Guaymas via Navojoa, Culiacan, Mazat- 
 lan and Tepic to Guadalajara. 
 
 SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILROAD OF MEXICO. 
 
 {West Coast Route.) 
 
 Sections of the line are still under construction. The railhead is near 
 Ruiz, in the State of Nayarit. When Guadalajara, the ultimate terminal, is 
 reached, connections can be made there with the National Railways of 
 Mexico to all points in the Republic. 
 
 Pullman cars with good broiler service run through to Mazatldn. The food 
 along the rly. is good and there is plenty of it, as the fruit and other prod- 
 ucts are equal to those of California. 
 
 When completed the rly. will be one of the finest scenic routes of the 
 world, as the country it penetrates is extraordinarily wild and picturesque. 
 The line crosses the fertile coast plains of the West Coast region, rises 
 through the foothill and mesa country of Nayarit, then climbs over the splen- 
 did Sierra Madre Mountains to the beautiful plateau city of Guadalajara 
 (p. 161). Rich and beautiful tropical valleys, extensive fields of sugar-cane, 
 tomato and tobacco plantations, forests of ebony, mahogany and other 
 precious woods, and romantic gorges hundreds of feet deep are features of 
 the line. 
 
 It winds across a wonderful virgin country teeming with riches and pos- 
 sibilities, and awaiting only the hand of progress to make it one of the 
 garden spots of the continent. The mineral wealth of the region is practi- 
 cally limitless. Oil no doubt lies beneath the vast semi-tropical forests which 
 cover miles of the territory. — The climate is almost perfect in certain 
 sections, with a choice of heat in the coast region, and cool spring days in 
 the mountains. 
 
 From Guaymas the trend of the line is S.-E. 67 K. Oroz, 
 is the point of departure for (6 K.) La Joy a, an American 
 settlement on the N. side of the Yaqui River. Ill K. Corral , 
 junction of the Yaqui River Branch to (155 K.) Tonichi. 
 
 Southward from Corral the line traverses an amazingly 
 productive region of virgin soil and many semi-tropical prod- 
 ucts. — 196 K. Navojoa , junction of the Alamos Branch to 
 (62 K.) Alamos. 
 
 331 K. San Bias , on the bank of the Fuerte River. Crossing 
 
 of the Kansas City, Mexico & Orient Railway (p. 56) and 
 point of departure for Topolobampo (p. 62), and Fuerte, 40 K. 
 to the E. 
 
 550 K. Culiacan (Rosales), pop. 25,000, capital of the State 
 of Sinaloa, on the 1. bank of the Sinaloa River. — Hotel 
 Rosales ; Hotel Cohen; rooms from $2 up per day. 
 
 The Plaza de Rosales is highly tropical, and that of La Constitucidn is 
 flanked by a double row of orange trees, which thrive here. Quaint por- 
 tales, the Cathedral and the Seminario adorn the sides of this plaza. — The 
 town is linked to the Pacific Ocean port of Altata by the Ferrocarril Occi- 
 dental, 62 kiloms. long. — About 4 M. E. of Culiacan are locally cele- 
 brated hot springs. Many Aztec remains (relics of early occupation) are 
 found in the neighborhood. It is an outfitting-point for ipining-camps in 
 E. Sinaloa and W. Chihuahua and Durango. 
 
 603 K. Quila, junction of the El Dorado Branch for points 
 on the San Lorenzo River . 
 
90 Route 2J+. 
 
 STATE OF SINALOA 
 
 771 K. Mazatlan (Aztec: place of the deer), with a growing 
 pop. of 30.000, stands on a picturesque peninsula overlooking 
 the fine Olas Alt as Bay , of the Pacific Ocean, diagonally 
 opposite Cape San Lucas, the southernmost point of Lower 
 California. It is just south of the Tropic of Cancer, in the 
 State of Sinaloa, in lat. 23°, 11', 18" and long. 7°, 16', 59". 
 In the midst of a rich and productive region, Mazatlan is 
 regarded as one of the great Ports of Mexico. There are a 
 number of foreign consuls, and several hotels. Hotels Central , 
 de France, and Nacional; rates from $2 up, a day, for rooms; 
 meals a la carta . 
 
 The big and popular ships of the Compania Naviera de los 
 Estados de Mexico, S. A. (Mexican States Line), G . S. Coppel 
 & Bro., Agents; the Pacific Mail Steamship Co. ( Wohler , 
 Bartning, Suers., Agents), and the Compania Naviera Mexi- 
 cana, S. A. ySenor Martin Careaga, Agt.) make Mazatlan a 
 regular port of call. Good and frequent service. 
 
 Mazatlan is the metropolis for many towns in the environing 
 country, and in due course it will be a railway centre of im- 
 portance. A line of (Gov’t) railway is building from Durango 
 (p. 100), and when this is completed the Port will be in close 
 touch with all Eastern Mexico. Trains are running out of 
 Durango at present to (135 K.) El Salto, — about one-third 
 of the distance. 
 
 For a continuation of Route 23, see page 91. 
 
 24. State of Sinaloa. 
 
 The State of Sinaloa (so called for a tribe of Indians, the 
 Sinaloas, established in the Rio Fuerte region), with an area 
 of 87,231 sqr. kiloms., a population of 296,800, and a coast- 
 line of 510 kiloms., is bounded on the N. by Sonora and Chi- 
 huahua, on the E. by Chihuahua and Durango, on the S. 
 by the State of Nayarit and the Pacific Ocean, and on the 
 W. by the Golfo de California. During the Spanish domina- 
 tion it was called Nuevo Aragon. The Gulf of California ex- 
 tends along the coast of the state from Agiabampo Bay to the 
 south of Mazatlan, at which point the Pacific coast-line begins. 
 
 The general topographical condition of the state (highlv 
 mineralized) is mountainous. Gold, silver, copper, iron and 
 lead are the chief products. The richest agricultural section 
 occupies a strip of territory lying along the western slope of 
 the Sierra Madres, and between this and the Gulf. 
 
 The state is well watered. Nearly all of the rivers (about 
 200) have their rise in the Sierra Madres and empty into the 
 Gulf of California. In the mountainous region the climate is 
 temperate, with cold nights, and on the coast it is very warm. 
 The fauna and flora are rich and unusually varied. Sugar- 
 cane is grown extensively. 
 
GUAYMAS TO GUADALAJARA 23. Rte. 91 
 
 Route 23, continued from page 90. 
 
 Construction is in progress southward on the rly. line, and 
 travellers can often reach distant points on the local and con- 
 struction trains. Diligencias and sometimes Ford autos act 
 as feeders to the line, and connect it with inland towns and 
 haciendas . At K. 910 the rly. crosses the Las Cahas River into 
 Nayarit territory, then proceeds to (1002 K.) Yago , on the 
 Santiago River. (1082 K.) Tepic . 
 
 Tepic (a Nahuatl word compounded from tetl — stone, and 
 pic — hard), capital of the State of Nayarit , 3*069 ft. above 
 the level of the sea, with a population of 15,500 ; is beautifully 
 situated on a broad plain almost at the foot of the now quies- 
 cent volcano of Sanganguey. A small river (the Tepic) passes 
 by the town in a northerly direction and empties into the 
 Rio Santiago. The Indian pueblo which occupied the site 
 of the present town was visited by the Spaniards in 1535. 
 In 1811 the Cortes Espaholes gave the place the title of Noble 
 y Leal Ciudad de Tepic. The Cathedral (formerly the par - 
 roquia) dates from 1750. The Templo de la Cruz was erected 
 in 1777. The primitive inhabitants of the region were possessed 
 of an artistic sense, for several handsome pieces of pottery 
 have been unearthed in the vicinity (comp. p. lxxv). The fine 
 Tediro Porjirio Diaz was erected in 1907. The town contains 
 a number of attractive plazas with tall palms and beautiful 
 tropical flowers. The Alameda is the favorite promenade. 
 In the Jardin de la Plaza Principal is a monument commem- 
 orating the Pacificacion del Territorio, in 1873. The iron 
 monument to Benito Juarez , facing the Calle de Mexico , was 
 erected in 1906 to celebrate the first centenary of that patriot. 
 Chief among the paseos and jardines are the Parque Porjirio 
 Diaz , the Jardin Sanroman , Zaragoza and Loma de la Cruz. 
 The Palacio Municipal dates from 1882. The climate is health- 
 ful, but paludal fevers prevail near the coast. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). Hotel Brandes; rooms from $2 up; room and board 
 from $4. Well spoken of. 
 
 The Diligences which ply between the city and outlying places usually 
 advertise rates, time of departure, etc., on posters which are to be found 
 in the hotel lobby. 
 
 Banks. Banco Nacional. Banco de Jalisco. 
 
 Cabs ( coches de sitio ) SI per hour; $1.50 on feast days. 
 
 The most important towns to the south of Tepic, on the 
 railway, are Compostela and Ixtldn. The gigantic mass of the 
 Sierra Madre Mts. dominates the country, which is rich and 
 peculiarly attractive. The native tribes one meets differ in 
 many ways from those of Central and Southern Mexico, and 
 their habits and manners are of unfailing interest to the 
 stranger. As a rule they are better workers than the East Coast 
 men. 
 
 The Port of San Bias, 25 M. southwest of Tepic City (hotel 
 Guzmdn , rooms from $2 up per day) is touched at regularly by 
 
92 Route 25. STATE OF NAYARIT 
 
 Huichol 
 
 the popular steamers of the Mexican States Line, and the 
 Compahia Naviera Mexicana ( Sehor Alberto P . Reynaud , 
 agent for both lines), also The Pacific Mail Steamship Co. 
 
 ( Dolores E. Viuda de Lanzagorta, Agent). These steamship 
 lines also touch at Manzanillo , the Port for Guadalajara, and 
 at other southern Mexican ports. 
 
 25. State of Nayarit. 
 
 The State of Nayarit, with 151,000 inhabitants and an area 
 of 29,211 sqr. kilometros, is bounded on the N. by Sinaloa and 
 Durango, on the E. and S. by Jalisco, and on the W. by the 
 Pacific Ocean (called El Grande Oceano ), with a coast-lme of 
 500 kiloms. It is one of the richest regions in the Republic. 
 
 The Sierra Madre range crosses the State from S.-E. to j 
 N.-W. and its course is marked by deep barrancas and plung- 1 
 ing rivers. Precipitous cliffs occur with great frequency, ; 
 and in the southern part, in the Distrito de Ahuacatlan, the j 
 country is almost entirely of volcanic origin. The chief fea- j 
 ture of this section is the celebrated Volcan de Ceboruco 
 (7,213 ft.), which in 1870 became violently active and threw 
 out vast quantities of lava and ashes. Near by is the equally 
 renowned Pico de Sangangiiey (an extinct volcano) which 
 rises 6,660 ft. above the sea. The agricultural products are j 
 numerous and are similar to those of other tropical districts. 
 The coffee is renowmed for its excellence. The best coffee-lands 
 lie within the Distrito de Compostela, in a zone parallel to the 
 ocean and about 2,500 ft. above it. . 
 
 Albeit the state is the home of many Indian tribes (most \ 
 important are the Huicholes and the Coras, in the Sierra j 
 de Nayarit , p. 93), notable architectural ruins are lacking. 
 Mounds abound, and from some of them idols, terra-cotta i 
 figures, beautiful pottery (p. lxxv), gold bells and whatnot 
 have been exhumed. Many of the idols have been found near | 
 lztlan (a Nahuatl word — “where there is iztli,” obsidian). 
 They are usually in a sitting posture, of a light brown color, 
 hard-baked and hideous. They show Tarascan (p. 218) in- 1 
 fluence, and good specimens may be obtained in the antique 
 
 shops of Mexico City. . . . r 
 
 The Sierra Madre Mts. in Nayarit are the home of vari- 
 ous tribes of Indians who mix but little w T ith their neigh- 
 bors, and whose customs are curious and interesting. Chiel 
 among them are the Vishdlika — healers ; called Huicholes 
 by the Mexicans. The early Spaniards found them dwelling 
 in their mountain fastnesses and they were so strongly in- 
 trenched, and so warlike, that it w^as not until 1722 that they 
 were able to conquer them. The Franciscan missionaries then 
 erected churches, and the tribe became alleged converts to 
 Christianity. Even the zealous friars found these Indians 
 difficult material, and to-day the churches are in ruins, no 
 
Indians . 
 
 STATE OF NAYARIT 25. Route. 93 
 
 priests dwell there, and the ancient beliefs and ceremonies are 
 adhered to. The Indians profess Christianity only when favors 
 are to be obtained. Their Mexican neighbors call them 
 bdrbaros — barbarians. The lees of the tribe — about 4,000 
 — dwell in a region very difficult of access, in a huge barranca , 
 some 40 miles long by 25 wide, in the Sierra de Nayarit. The 
 Jesuit Father, Ortega, said of the Sierra de Nayarit : “ It is so 
 wild and frightful to behold that its ruggedness, even more 
 than the arrows of its warlike inhabitants, took away the 
 courage of the conquerors, because not only the ridges and 
 valleys appear inaccessible, but the extended range of tower- 
 ing mountain peaks confused even the eye.” In addition 
 the district bears an infamous reputation for scorpions — the 
 Huichol and Cora districts fairly teeming with them. In 
 some cases land which is overrun with them has to be 
 abandoned. Many children die each year from their venom. 
 
 Not all of the scorpions of the locality are dangerous. The small, whit- 
 ish-yellow variety is most dreaded. Unless prompt measures are taken 
 the sting causes death within two hours. For some occult reason, certain 
 persons are immune and can handle the insects with impunity. Others 
 are apparently antagonistic, and are stung frequently. The local antidote 
 is to open the scorpion and apply it to the wound. Hikuli (p. lxxxvii) is 
 an efficient cure for the scorpion’s sting. It is thought that a zone of scor- 
 pions extends from the mining-town of Bramador , near Talpa (Territory 
 of Tepic), as far north as Durango City (p. 100), where they are a pest. 
 
 The dividing line between the States of Sinaloa and 
 Durango runs along the Sierra de Nayarit. 
 
 One of the Huichol traditions refers to a great deluge; 
 another mentions that the tribe originated in the South. 
 They are the same color as the Tarahumares (p. 57), whom 
 they resemble. The average Huichol is 5 ft. 5 inches high and 
 singularly healthy. They are fond of water and bathe each 
 day. The members of the tribe usually die of old age. Unlike 
 their fighting ancestors they lack personal courage. They are 
 fairly quick-witted and not over-scrupulous. During their 
 intercourse with Mexicans they have learned to economize 
 the truth. To them the Mexs. apply the proverb: “The In- 
 dian, the bird and the deer are gone when they are gone.” 
 Hunting is the chief occupation; deer are snared in nets 
 stretched on two poles. 
 
 Some of the Huicholes bear such a strong facial resemblance 
 to the Chinese that the Mexs. call them Chinos (Chinamen). 
 In their religious ceremonies they use a wicker chair that is 
 a counterpart of the round cane chair made by the Chinese 
 and used throughout the Far East. Every man is called 
 the son of some god; every girl is a goddess. The infant 
 Huichol never creeps or puts its knees to the ground as 
 does a white baby; it goes about on all fours, like a monkey, 
 before it is able to stand. In this practice it is like the Zuni 
 Indian baby of New Mexico. 
 
94 Route 25. 
 
 INDIAN CUSTOMS 
 
 Huichol 
 
 Marriages are made by the parents. Morals are never looked 
 after very closely. Men and women are fond of wearing im- 
 mensely broad-brimmed straw hats, with very low crowns, 
 elaborately trimmed with flowers and feathers. The effect is 
 curious; imparting a sort of lackadaisical aspect. These hats 
 are a specialty of the tribe. 
 
 The Huichol man carries a bow and arrows made of light 
 hard wood and stuck in his girdle. Burdens are packed on the 
 back, in huge nets shaped like an oyster. Striking features 
 of the Huichol costume are pouches woven of wool or cotton, 
 in a great variety of designs. Two or three such bags (which 
 take the place of pockets) generally hang from the shoulder, 
 and one, which is never missing, is suspended in front and below 
 the girdle. In this the Indian carries his tobacco, flint and 
 steel for striking fire. The pouch gives the weight necessary 
 to hold the shirt in place. Rows of small pouches, measuring 
 usually 3 by 6 inches, of exquisite workmanship, fastened i 
 to each other at the upper corners, are generally w^orn below 
 the girdle. On festive occasions a man may wear as many 
 as 12 pouches, hanging on both sides from the shoulders. 
 The hair is worn long and flowing, confined at the brow with 
 handsome, woven head-bands (desirable curios). In the ob- i 
 servance of certain religious rites they deck themselves out i 
 gayly with ribbons and feathers. Some carry sticks on which 
 eagle plumes are attached. (Eagles are supposed to possess | 
 mystic powers and their feathers are coveted as a protection 
 against evil.) 
 
 Many good-looking women are found among the Huicholes. ! 
 They wear short skirts and tunics of cotton cloth, made on 
 primitive looms and elaborately embroidered. The legs are 
 left 'bare. “Over the shoulder is worn a kerchief of cotton 
 cloth, tastefully embroidered with red and blue thread, and i 
 finished at the lower edge with a band of red flannel. The 
 skirt is caught at the waist by a long, artistically woven i 
 girdle. These require days of patient work to finish and are , 
 much prized by the women. They are worn by both sexes, | 
 and a wealthy person will wear two or more, one above the i 
 other. Some of the designs are strikingly beautiful, and com- 
 pare favorably with the best heraldic designs of mediaeval 
 times. Large round ornaments made of a network of vari- j 
 colored beads usually pend from the women’s ears, and both j 
 sexes wear elaborate necklaces of blue and white beads. 
 Bracelets and anklets woven in bands are greatly prized.” 
 
 Huichol dwellings are of stone, circular and thatch-covered. 
 
 A house contains but one room, the door of which is never 
 closed. The entrance is low, small, and recalls that of an 
 Esquimaux igloo, which the house resembles. A hole is al- ; 
 ways pierced in the facade, above the door, and a correspond- 
 ing one in the rear; through these the house breathes. God- 
 
Customs . 
 
 THE CORA INDIANS 25. Route. 95 
 
 houses, usually rectangular, are notable for the number of 
 symbolic articles found therein. The idols are kept in sacred 
 caves in the hills. 
 
 The native is musical and he expresses the sentiment with 
 considerable skill. Reed flutes, with ornamentation similar 
 to that of a rattle-snake’s tail, are popular. The Huichol drum 
 is a curious instrument, hollowed from an oak log, covered at 
 one end with a deer-skin and placed on three rude legs. It 
 always stands above a disc of solidified volcanic ash, imbedded 
 in the floor, to impart a sonorous sound. The Shameni (head 
 priests) beat it with the palm of the hand (after the Japanese 
 custom), giving one long beat with the right hand and two 
 quick beats with the left. A musical bow, similar to that of 
 the Coras, is sometimes found in the temples. 
 
 The votive bowls and drinking gourds are very desirable 
 curios. They are painted inside, in red or green, and when 
 intended as a sacrifice to the tutelary deity are adorned with 
 beads of various colors. These are attached with beeswax, 
 singly or in strings, and form coils, rolls, human figures and 
 other designs. The entire inner surface of a wooden bowl is 
 sometimes covered with wax and unique and intricate bead 
 designs. (The collector is advised that such souvenirs should 
 be kept in a cool place, as heat melts the wax and destroys the 
 design.) 
 
 The Huicholes practise the curious Hikuli cult, and they 
 make long and ceremonious pilgrimages to Real de Catorce 
 (p. 16), and elsewhere, to obtain the singular little Echino- 
 cactus. The journey consumes 43 days and each seeker carries 
 a double water gourd of a form much in vogue among the 
 Japanese. Hikuli possesses many curious properties, some of 
 them highly medicinal (comp. p. 93). 
 
 The blankets and ornaments made by the Huicholes and 
 Coras are always valuable souvenirs, as the colors are attract- 
 ive and fast and the material wears like iron. 
 
 (For further information regarding these and other Indian 
 tribes of the locality consult Unknown Mexico , by Carl Lum- 
 holtz.) 
 
 Hard by the Huichol pueblos (towns) are several Cora vil- 
 lages. These Indians, a rapidly diminishing tribe of which 
 there are only about 2,500 left, call themselves Nayariti or 
 Nayari , and in speech, religion and customs are akin to the 
 Huicholes, whom they call Hashi — crocodiles. Near one of 
 their poblaciones is a deep volcanic lake which they believe is 
 the remnant of the u large flood ” of which they have a tradi- 
 tion. The Coras are the most interesting of all the tribes 
 hereabout. They say they originated in the East and that 
 their forefathers were big people with broad, handsome faces 
 and long hair. Their language is guttural, though musical. 
 Many of them wear slight beards, mostly on the chin, and in 
 
96 Route 25. 
 
 TEPECAXO INDIANS 
 
 Tres Marias 
 
 the form of an “imperial ” or goatee. In this, and in feature, 
 they strongly resemble the Koreans. Were they white they 
 would pass unnoted in any Anglo-Saxon crowd. The foreigner 
 finds difficulty in believing them Indios. They consider 
 themselves superior to adjacent tribes and entertain a strong 
 dislike to being confounded with their neighbors. 
 
 The Coras marry when about 15; the parents arrange the 
 match. Although they live in houses with no ventilation, and 
 suffer greatly from scorpions, colds and malaria, they attain 
 remarkable longevity. In contradistinction to the usual 
 Indian custom, the women age late in life. Unlike the Tara- 
 humares, the Coras possess but little endurance. 
 
 A noteworthy home industry is the weaving of bags and 
 pouches, similar to those of the Huicholes, in many beautiful 
 designs. The highly decorated articles make attractive sou- 
 venirs, which the traveller will sometimes find in the small 
 antique shops in Tepic City. The Catholic friars have estab- 
 lished missions among these Indians, and they are devout 
 Christians until they get off among the hills, where they wor- 
 ship their tutelary gods at secret shrines. Their chief divinity 
 is the Morning Star — Chulavete. The setting sun is worshipped 
 by both Coras and Huicholes. Standing on the mesa (table- 
 land) de Nayarit, above the Cora pueblos , is a huge idol of 
 the setting sun “ looking toward Mexico.” Dead Coras are laid 
 away in caves. 
 
 The Coras are fond of fishing and they catch cray-fish and 
 others with a kind of net made of cotton thread. They dive 
 to the bottom of a stream and crawl along among the rocks 
 holding the net wide open with their elbows. 
 
 Near the mining-town of Bolahos (pop. 1,500), in the Huichol 
 country, lying in the Valley of the Mezquitic (Aztec — among 
 mesquite trees), is a famous hot spring, Agua-Caliente, which 
 bursts from the bank of an arroyo at the foot of an almost per- 
 pendicular rock, about 1,000 ft. high. For a century or more 
 these sulphur springs have enjoyed local fame for their cur- 
 ative powers. They have been dammed in, and a few rough 
 houses have been erected near by for the patients who come 
 in the dry season (Jan.-April). The water is very clear but 
 leaves a yellow sediment. The perspiration which it induces 
 is still further increased by drinking the hot water. The heat 
 is appalling; some persons faint in the baths trying to be- 
 come accustomed to the high temperature. Baths are taken 
 twice daily. Certain diseases are said to be curable in nine 
 days. 
 
 Near by is a small Indian pueblo of the Tepecano Indios , 
 a tribe allied to the Huicholes. 
 
 Opposite the Port of San Bias (referred to at p. 91), in the 
 Pacific Ocean, are four small islands known as Las Tres Marias 
 (the three Marys), Maria Madre, Magdalena , Cleofas and 
 
Islands . 
 
 TRES MARIAS 
 
 25, Route. 97 
 
 San Juanito, of which the island of Maria Madre has been 
 set apart as a penal colony and is now the “ Botany Bay ” of 
 the Mexico City thieves. The island is about 16 kilom. long 
 by 6 kilom. wide, and contains at present over two thousand 
 pickpockets and sneak thieves. A hundred soldiers act as 
 guards, and the convicts are obliged to work in the salt-pit 
 while expiating their crimes. Sentences range from one to 
 five years. 
 
IV. CENTRAL MEXICO, 
 
 26. From Piedras Negras ( Eagle Pass , Texas) via 
 
 Torreon to Durango 98 
 
 From Monclova to Cuatro Cienegas, 99. 
 
 27. Durango City 100 
 
 From Durango to Tepehuan^s, 101. — Durango State, 102. 
 
 — Cotton, 102. — The Iron Mountain, 103. — Lerdo, 
 
 104. 
 
 28. From (Laredo, Monterey, Saltillo) San Luis Potosi 
 via Gonzalez Junction and Queretaro to Mexico City 104 
 
 Dolores Hidalgo. 104. — San Miguel de Allende, 105. — 
 Gonzalez Junction, 107. 
 
 29. From Gonzalez Junction via Celaya and Salvatierra 
 to Acambaro (thence to Morelia, Patzcuaro and 
 
 Uruapan) 108 
 
 30. Queretaro 109 
 
 History and character of the city, 110. — Opals, 110. — The 
 Aqueduct, 116. — Excursion to San Pedro de la Canada, 
 
 118. — To the Fabrica.de Hercules, 118. — To Pueblito, 
 
 118. — El Cerro de las Campanas, 119. — State of Quer6- 
 taro, 119. 
 
 31. From (Ciudad Juarez, Chihuahua, Torreon, Zaca- 
 
 tecas) Aguascalientes via Leon, Silao, Irapuato, Ce- 
 laya and Queretaro to Mexico City 122 
 
 San Juan delos Lagos, 123. — Leon, 124. — Silao, 126. — Ira- 
 puato, 126. — Salamanca, 127. — Celaya. 127. — Eduardo 
 de Tresguerras, 12S. — Maize. 133. — Tula, 134. — From 
 Tula to Pachuca, 135. — El Tajo de Nochistongo, 135. — 
 Teoloyucan and the Church of Tepozotlan, 136. 
 
 32. From Silao to Guanajuato 137 
 
 Guanajuato, 137. — State of Guanajuato, 145. 
 
 26. From Piedras Negras ( Eagle Pass . Texas) via 
 Torreon to Durango (Eagle Pass Route). 
 
 870 Kil6melro8 (547 M.), 1 express train daily in 23 hrs. For fares see 
 p. xxxi. Buffet service. The customs formalities, luggage, quarantine and 
 tax regulations are like those referred to at p. 1, Route 1. Money (to the 
 amount of $200 Mexican) can be exchanged in the ticket office on either 
 side of the river. Connections are made at Monterey (via Reata) for all 
 points on the National Railways of Mexico, which operate the Mex. 
 International Rly. Eagle Pass uses Central Standard time, which is 
 1 hour faster than Mexican time. Put watches back 1 hour. 
 
 Eagle Pass, Texas, on the Rio Grande del Norte , is reached 
 from San Antonio (Texas) via Spofford Junction (35 M.) over 
 
 
PIEDRAS NEGRAS 26. Route . 99 
 
 the Southern Pacific Railroad, which also connects with El 
 Paso , 454 M. to the N.-W. Laredo lies due S. 
 
 Piedras Negras (formerly Ciudad Porfirio Diaz), on the 
 Mexican side (State of Coahuila) of the river, is one of four 
 gateways of N.-E. Mexico. The environing country is similar 
 to that about Laredo , p. 2. 
 
 The railway traverses a somewhat arid region. What little 
 prosperity the country enjoys is mainly due to cattle-raising, 
 albeit further down the line, in the vicinity of Torreon, con- 
 siderable cotton is produced. Until a few decades ago, and 
 from the remotest antiquity, the land was the roaming-ground 
 of hordes of wild Indians, prominent among them the blood- 
 thirsty and dreaded Apaches, who came southward to winter in 
 the balmy Mex. climate. They have now disappeared and their 
 descendants are so Mexicanized as to be almost indistinguish- 
 able from the present inhabitants. Flocks of sheep and goats 
 tended by shepherds, and bunches of half-wild cattle guarded 
 by unkempt, bepistoled vaqueros, are the only enlivening scenes 
 in the landscape. We pass many unimportant stations. As we 
 penetrate deeper into Mexico many species of cacti sprinkle 
 the plains and hillsides, and the villages become less hybrid 
 and more Mexican. Many miles of the sunburned plains are 
 given over to hovering waves of shimmering heat and to a 
 lonely melancholy, and are inhabited only by prairie-dogs, 
 coyotes and similar animal life. 
 
 72 M. Sabinas, point of departure for towns on the branch 
 line ( Ramal de Rosita a Sabinas) which runs hence to 10 M. 
 Rosita. 89 M. Barroteran, point of departure for the branch 
 line ( Ramal Carbonifera de Coahuila, operated by the Nat. 
 Rlys. of Mex.), which runs to 25 M. Muzquiz. 
 
 148 M. Monclova lies in the midst of a region which requires 
 only water to make of it a tropical hortus. The altitude and 
 the all-vivifying sun are adjusted for the bounteous produc- 
 tion of plant life, and the fruit which grows in the vicinity is 
 celebrated for its fine quality. The vast State of Coahuila, in 
 which it lies, was a frequent bone of contention between the 
 early settlers in Texas and the Mexican Government, and 
 to-day there is not lacking a little covert hostility between the 
 settlers on the opposite sides of the muddy Rio Grande. 
 
 A Branch Railway ( Ramal de Cuatro Cienegas), operated by the Nat. 
 Rlys. of Mex., runs westward from Monclova to 42 M. Cuatro Cienegas. 
 The intervening country is uninteresting. 
 
 The fine blue-peaked hills which mark the horizon as we 
 proceed southward are the outlying spurs of the splendid 
 Sierra Madre Range — that stupendous prolongation of 
 the Central American Cordillera which dips at the Isthmus 
 of Tehuantepec, then rises to traverse the Mexican Republic 
 from Chiapas on the south to distant Sonora on the north. 
 The slope of the line is steadily upward. The desolate-look- 
 
100 Route 27. 
 
 DURANGO CITY 
 
 ing plateaus are only relieved by the many species of cactus 
 which thrive and mature on the vast desert reaches. 
 
 211 M. Reata, point of departure for Monterey , 72 M. dis- 
 tant (comp. p. 5). We ascend through a desolate hill-dis- 
 trict over slopes strewn with the debris washed down from 
 their sides. Almost every little town through which we pass 
 has a tiny church dedicated to the tutelar of the place. As a 
 rule these churches do not compare with the gorgeous temples 
 of central and southern Mexico. From Reata the line curves 
 toward the W. and is flanked for many miles by a line of blue 
 hills visible on the 1. Near Torreon we enter a region called 
 the Laguna district , celebrated for its bumper cotton crops. 
 
 350 M. Homos , point of departure for the branch line ( Ramal 
 de San Pedro) which runs toward the north for 14 M. to San 
 Pedro; and for the Ferrocarril de Homos which runs southward 
 27 M. to Viesca. 
 
 383 M. Torreon, described at p. 35, a thriving, bustling little 
 city of much energy and many nationalities. 
 
 We soon enter the State of Durango, celebrated for its phe- 
 nomenally rich mines, its huge mountain of almost pure iron 
 and its splendid climate. 540 M. Durango , see below. 
 
 27. Durango City. 
 
 Arrival. The railway station (PI. C, 2) is within a few min. walk of 
 the Plaza Principal (PI. C, 4) , and the chief hotels. 
 
 Tram-cars meet trains. Ford jitneys, S2.50 an hr.; SI. 50 h hr. or less. 
 
 Hotels (comp, xlvii). Hotel Paris y San Carlos; H. International; Hotel 
 Hidalgo; Hotel Estacidn. Rooms from $2 up per day; rooms with board 
 (Am. PI.), from S4. — Dark, damp rooms, and rooms on the ground floor 
 should be avoided. 
 
 Banks. The Banco Nacional de Mexico is the correspondent of the 
 Mexico Citv Banking Corporation. Banque Francaise du Mexique. 
 
 A Branch Railway Line (the eventual terminus of which is Mazatldn) 
 runs hence to (135 K.) El Salto. Consult the Gufa of the Ferrocarriles 
 Nacionales de Mexico. — The Branch Line to Tepehuan§s is referred to at 
 
 p. 101. 
 
 Durango City, capital of the State of the same name, 
 pop. 40,000 (6,207 ft. above sea -level), on the margin of the 
 Rio Tunal (Indian fig-tree), which rises to the N.-E. of the 
 city, stands on a level plain formed by the foothills of the 
 Sierra Madre and derives its name from the old Spanish city 
 (in the Basque Province) of Durango. It is often referred to 
 as the 11 town of sunshine ” because of its almost matchless 
 climate. The region is a sort of open air sanitarium in the cen- 
 tre of an amazingly rich and but partially developed country 
 where the invalid may regain health and vigor merely by 
 remaining out of doors; and the miner, the ranchman, the 
 agriculturist, the hunter, and the pleasure-seeker .may find 
 profit and contentment in the practically unlimited resources 
 
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History. 
 
 DURANGO CITY 
 
 27. Route. 101 
 
 of the fields, the forest and the streams roundabout. Excel- 
 lent duck shooting and a variety of large game (comp. p. 102) 
 are to be had within a few hours of the hotel. Hunting-trips 
 can be planned to the best advantage with the aid of the hotel 
 manager. Suitable ammunition is not always obtainable in 
 Durango City. 
 
 Durango is celebrated in Mexican annals as the birthplace 
 of the statesman Don Francisco Zarco , declared by Congress 
 (in 1869) a Benemerito de la Patria. 
 
 On the outskirts of the city is a fine mineral spring hold- 
 ing a large quantity of iron in solution. The great Iron Moun- 
 tain is one of the unique attractions of the place. 
 
 The Cathedral (PI. C, 3), a massive structure in the Tuscan 
 style, begun in 1695 and completed in 1750, is one of the most 
 interesting buildings in the city. It is surmounted by two 
 square towers and flanked by a narrow, stone-flagged atrium 
 separated from the street by a tall iron railing. The interior, 
 250 ft. long by 153 ft. high, is elaborately decorated. The pic- 
 tures call for no special mention. 
 
 El Palacio de Gobierno (PI. C, 4), in the 6th Calle Prin- 
 cipal, is one of the largest edifices. Next in importance is the 
 Palacio Municipal (PI. C, 4), facing the Plaza de la Consti- 
 tution. El Instituto Juarez, in the 2d C. de la Consti- 
 tution; the Casino, the Mercado, the Alameda and the 
 Plaza de Toros differ in no wise from those of other Mexican 
 towns. The old Mint dates from 1811. 
 
 The Plaza Principal (PI. C, 4), near the centre of the town, 
 contains an attractive garden. The river-bank affords many 
 pleasant walks. The cotton-mills represent one of the largest 
 of the city industries. Tram-cars will convey the traveller to 
 all of the suburban towns. 
 
 A railway ( Ramal de Guanacevi , operated by the National Rlys. of 
 Mex.) runs hence in a north-westerly direction through 59 K. Guatimape , 
 103 K. Santiago Papasquiaro to 135 K. Tepehuanes. 
 
 History. When the Spaniards reached Mexico the district 
 now called Durango was peopled by a number of nomad 
 tribes of savages. In 1532, Nuno de Guzman , Governor of 
 Nueva Galicia, sent out from Guadalajara an exploring expedi- 
 tion under Cristobal Onate and Jose Angulo; the object being to 
 discover new territory and subjugate the inhabitants. The 
 party reached Durango , then called Guadiana, late in the same 
 year. Finding the land strewn with sand instead of silver they 
 returned to Guadalajara, and it was not until 20 years later 
 (1552) that determined efforts to conquer and colonize the new 
 territory were made. An expedition was fitted out and led by 
 Gxnes Vasquez del Mercado , a rich, credulous, daring, and vain- 
 glorious man. From some wandering Indians he learned that 
 a mountain of silver lay within the Durango district and he 
 
102 Route 27. 
 
 DURANGO STATE 
 
 Cotton. 
 
 determined to discover it. Mercado located the mountain, but 
 instead of silver it proved to be iron. On the return journey, 
 the party was ambushed at Sombrerete and those who escaped 
 were badly wounded. Mercado died before reaching Guadala- 
 jara and was buried in the village of Juchilpa. 
 
 The expedition which left Zacatecas in 1554, under Cap - 
 tain Francisco de Ibarra , located the vast mineral district of 
 Fresnillo (Zacatecas), and established the towns of Villa de 
 Nombre de Dios, Sombrerete, Chalchihuites and Nieves ; all min- 
 ing towns of note. The localities proved so rich in silver that 
 many Spanish adventurers flocked thither; the Indians were 
 soon subjugated and the territory was added to El Reino de 
 Nueva Vizcaya. In 1563 Ibarra moved on to the Valley of 
 Guadiana and established the town of Durango, on July 8. 
 
 Durango, one of the Mexican Estados del Centro, a large, 
 rich state with 370,294 inhab. and an area of 98,470 sqr. kilom., 
 north of the torrid zone, on the slopes of the Sierra Madre 
 Mountains, in a fine game district, is bounded on the N. by 
 Chihuahua, on the E. and S.-E. by Coahuila , on the S. by 
 Zacatecas and the Territorio de Tepic and on the W. by Sina- 
 loa. It is divided into 13 Political Distritos and subdivided 
 into 49 municipalidades. The capital is Durango City. 
 
 The state is very mountainous. The Sierra Madre range 
 crosses the W. district and its path is marked by a series of 
 rugged peaks rising from 7,000 to 10,000 ft. above sea -level, 
 and by deep barrancas, fine forest, verdurous glens and wide 
 valleys. Several lines of foothills stretch out from the mother 
 range and give a wild and broken character to certain of the 
 sections. Grizzly bears, wolves, coyotes, deer, black and cin- 
 namon bear and wild turkeys range the higher sierras, and wild- 
 geese, ducks and allied birds are found in the lowlands. Certain 
 districts of the state are fine natural game preserves — the 
 delight of the occasional hunter who strays therein. 
 
 The list of the Flora and Fauna is incomplete. The former 
 embraces 40 mammals, 70 birds, 13 reptiles, 7 batrachians 
 and a large number of insects, prominent among them the 
 alacran (p. 93). The floral varieties are numerous and count 
 among them 80 trees, 50 fruits, 13 textiles, 12 tanning plants, 
 12 oleaginous plants, 11 dye plants, 10 forage plants, 4 poison- 
 ous and aromatic plants, 20 gums and resins, 30 medicinal 
 plants, and many ornamental flowers and shrubs. Owing 
 to topographical conditions the products of several zones are 
 successfully cultivated. Cotton is one of the great staples. 
 
 Cotton, from the Arabic Alqoton (Spanish Algodon ), an indigenous 
 plant , was found in Mexico by the Spaniards. Indians clothed with cotton 
 garments were first seen by Columbus, near the mainland, off the coast 
 of Yucatan, in 1502, nearly two thousand years after the first mention of 
 cotton fibre by Herodotus. Traditions are not lacking as to the ancient 
 use o f cotton by the Toltecs and the Aztecs, the date even of the adoption 
 by the latter tribe of cotton garments in place of those of skin, being 
 
IRON MOUNTAIN OF DURANGO 27. Rte. 103 
 
 noted in their annals. As to the Toltecs, it was entered in their sacred 
 book that Quetzalcoatl, god of the air, grew cotton of all colors in his 
 gardens, and taught them its many uses. Cotton garments, quilted 
 armor of cotton, and beautiful mantles were woven by the Indians of the 
 plateaus from this fibre. The breast-plates of cotton were proof against 
 Indian arrows, and were finally adopted by the conquerors themselves, 
 while many articles of apparel were often woven of a fineness and almost 
 the lustre of silk. In cotton and cacao seeds the inhabitants of the low- 
 lands, such as had not gold and precious stones, paid their tribute to the 
 A&tec rulers. Throughout the Republic there were, as at the present day, 
 primitive looms, and the manufacture of cotton goods was among the 
 first industries, in point of time, as it is now in importance, in that coun- 
 try. (F. A. Ober, Travels in Mexico .) 
 
 In the “Laguna” country, which lies partly in Durango and partly in 
 Coahuila, cotton is perennial, and does not require to be planted oftener 
 than once in ten years. This district, containing about 1,200,000 acres, 
 is extraordinarily fertile, and produces from 40 to 80 million kilos a year, 
 valued at from 12 to 17 millions of pesos. 
 
 The Climate is as varied as the elevations, and is cold in 
 the Sierra Madre or western region, moderate in the foothills 
 and upland plains, and hot on the lowlands. 
 
 The River System is meagre and irrigation is necessary. 
 The Nazas, the largest and most important river of the state, 
 known as the Nile of Durango , rises on the E. slope of the 
 Sierra Madre in the Distrito de Papasquiaro, and empties 
 into Habas Lake after a course of 600 kilom. In the early 
 spring when the heavy rains on the mountains form myriad 
 cascades and rivulets, the Nazas rises, and its waters, by being 
 led away through a vast system of canals hundreds of miles in 
 length, irrigate and enrich the surrounding country and pro- 
 duce the bumper crops for which the district is noted. The 
 most important agricultural region is included in the partidos 
 of Mapimi , Durango , San Juan del Rio, and Papasquiaro. Corn, 
 wheat, tobacco, fruits, sugar-cane, barley and leguminous 
 plants are among the products. The grapes of Lerdo and Cuen- 
 came are celebrated. More than one million head of stock roam 
 the broad plains and valleys. 
 
 The mountains are highly mineralized and mining is one of 
 the great resources. The total mining production of the state 
 is estimated to represent about $15,000,000; the number of 
 mines in operation is about 120. The districts of greatest 
 mining activity are Mapimi, Cuencame, Papasquiaro, San 
 Juan del Rio, Durango and N ombre de Dios. Iron, gold, silver, 
 sulphur, rubies and other valuable deposits exist. The state 
 possesses a somewhat unique attraction in the form of a moun- 
 tain of iron ore, — one of the greatest natural curiosities in 
 Mexico, — called El Cerro del Mercado , and with which the 
 early history of the state is closely associated. 
 
 “The Iron Mountain, known as El Cerro del Mercado (PI. D, 1), is a hel- 
 met-shaped hill of colossal proportions rising some 700 ft. above the sur- 
 rounding plain and composed almost totally of iron in different stages of 
 oxidization. It was long supposed to be unique, but Lower California 
 
104 Rte. 28. SAN LUIS POTOSl TO MEXICO CITY 
 
 (comp. p. 84) and Sweden possess similar deposits. The ore is hematite, 
 of a specific gravity of 4.658; each cubic foot weighing approximately 291 £ 
 lbs. It is from 60 to 67 per cent pure, and the estimated -weight of the 
 mass is 600,000,000 tons, worth approximately, 5,000 millions of dollars, 
 or seven times the value of all the gold and silver coined in Mexico from 
 1690 to 1803. 
 
 “Geologists believe the deposit was formed by the same process that 
 made the Hudson River Palisades, near New York City. A big opening 
 was made in the earth’s crust and this enormous mass of iron was thrust 
 up through the rift and piled high above the surrounding plain. The hill 
 is one of the dikes that are supposed to be the result of earthquake action. 
 Cracks or fissures have opened from the surface deep into the earth and 
 through these fissures molten matter has been forced to the outer air, 
 where it has hardened.” 
 
 No one knows how deep this iron mass (which is nearly a mile in length 
 and perhaps 2,000 ft. wide) penetrates below the surface. An American 
 company has erected a smelter hard by, and the product is to be utilized. 
 
 Lerdo, the second city of importance in the state, is reached 
 by tram-car from Torreon and is mentioned at p. 35. Inde, 
 316 M. from Durango City, is celebrated for its rich gold, silver 
 and copper mines. The Guanacevi mining district, 60 M. from 
 Tepehuanes (by a stage-road via Zape), is also noted for its 
 vast mineral resources. 
 
 28. From ( Laredo , Monterey , Saltillo) San Luis Potosi 
 via Gonzalez Junction and Queretaro to Mexico 
 City. 
 
 San Luis Potosi , see p. 17. The line traverses a flat valley 
 with mesquite , half-wild cattle and haciendas as the chief fea- 
 tures of the landscape. We pass the unimportant stations of 
 495 M. Jesus Maria; 501 M. Villa Reyes; 511 M. Jaral del \ 
 Berrio; 518 M. Cartagena. We enter the State of Guanajuato j 
 (p. 145). The grade slopes upward, and as the train winds 
 through broken country to the upper levels, we get fine 
 views of wide valleys delimned by blue-peaked hills. 
 
 52S M. San Felipe , an impoverished town some distance 
 from the rly. line and reached by the diminutive cars of the ! 
 Tranvia de San Felipe , which meet trains. We enter a hilly | 
 and stony region enlivened only by an occasional white- 1 
 walled farm-house, by flocks of sheep and goats, and by several | 
 varieties of cacti. 540 M. Obregon. The country is cut up by I 
 many arroyos; some of them marked by erratic boulders 
 pushed down from the hills by torrents during the rainy sea- j 
 son. Up-grade and many curves. 559 M. Rincon. The poor 
 town is far to the 1. of the line, and is reached by a tramway. 
 For time of trains which leave hence for Pozos ( Ramal de la 1 
 Paz , Nat. Rlys. of Mex.) consult the Guia Oficial. 
 
 562 M. Dolores Hidalgo, birthplace of the Cura Miguel 
 Hidalgo y Costilla , father of Mexican Independence, and of 
 the revolutionary heroes Abasolo and Balleza. A small tram- 
 car runs from the station to the town, about 2 M. distant on 
 
SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE 28. Rte. 105 
 
 the r. The town (pop. 6,000) lies in the fertile valley of the 
 Rio Laja, surrounded by a rich agricultural country, and was 
 founded in 1590 by explorers sent out by the Viceroy Luis 
 de Velasco. Here the lion-hearted Hidalgo pursued the even 
 tenor of his early life, and here, when Spanish rule in Mexico 
 had become intolerable, he uttered his famous Grito and 
 lit the fire of patriotism which soon flamed over the entire 
 country and eventually secured its independence. The house 
 in which he lived is the chief “sight,” and it is preserved 
 as nearly as possible in the same condition as when he 
 dwelt in it. It contains many relics and personal belongings 
 (others preserved in the Museo Nacional, see p. 298) of the 
 intrepid priest. The care-taker is a retired army officer. Sev- 
 eral thousand pilgrims visit the house during each year (no 
 fees), and every 16th of September a huge, patriotic fiesta is 
 celebrated. 
 
 In the Jardin Independencia is a fine monument to 
 Hidalgo's memory — one of the many hundreds erected 
 throughout Mexico. Hard by is the Parochial Church, and 
 a small temple of the Tercer Orden de San Francisco. 
 The National Government plans to beautify Dolores Hidalgo 
 and to make of it a sort of national sanctuary. 
 
 We cross a river spanned by a steel bridge. 571 M. Tequis- 
 quiapan. We cross another river. 573 M. La Petaca. The 
 river flows parallel to the track, on the r. We enter a better- 
 looking country, with many trees and wide, well-cultivated 
 farms. To the r. is visible the church of (578 M.) Atotonilco. 
 From this Santuario de Jesus Nazareno, Hidalgo took a picture 
 of the Virgin of Guadalupe , placed it on his lance, and com- 
 mencing his campaign against the Spaniards declared to his 
 followers that the Virgin should be their patroness in the 
 blessed cause of Independence. The town proper is a short 
 walk to the r. 
 
 584 M. San Miguel de Allende, known as S. Miguel and 
 as Allende (218 M. from Mex. City), pop. 12,800 (6,000 ft.), 
 capital of the municipality of S. M. de Allende (State of Guana- 
 juato), was founded in 1542 by the Franciscan Fray Juan de 
 San Miguel , under the name of San Miguel el Grande. It was 
 officially recognized in 1560, at which time, during the reign 
 of the Viceroy Velasco (p. cxcv), it was an important out- 
 post in the Chichimec territory. It derives its name from the 
 revolutionary patriot Ignacio Allende , who was born here (Jan. 
 21, 1779) in a house in what then was a little lane and which 
 is now known as Callejade la Cuna de Allende (little street of 
 the cradle of Allende). Above the door of the house is 
 the inscription : Hie natus ubique notus (here was born he 
 who was widely known). The town sprang into prominence 
 during the War for Independence (1810-21). Allende was 
 stationed here with the Queen’s Regiment when the Corregi - 
 
106 Rte. 28. SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE 
 
 dor a of Queretaro (p. Ill) sent the news, on the night of Sept. 
 13, 1810, of the discovery of the revolutionary plot in which 
 Allende was interested. The news-bearer, Perez, reached the 
 town at dawn of the 15th, and not finding Allende, he com- 
 municated his news to Don Juan Aldama, who proceeded at 
 once to Dolores Hidalgo , warned the Cura of the threatened 
 danger and thus hastened the famous Grito de Dolores and the 
 blow for independence. Hidalgo marched at once on San 
 Miguel , where he was joined by Allende and his royalist regi- 
 ment. Allende was captured and executed at Chihuahua 
 (p. 27) within the year, but the movement started against 
 the Spaniards gained adherents, and after 11 years of almost 
 Continuous fighting the Spanish flag was lowered from the 
 last Iberian stronghold in Mexico. 
 
 The town lies on the slope of the Cerro de Montezuma, over- 
 looking the beautiful valley of the Laja. Near the summit of 
 the cerro is a splendid thermal spring, El Chorro (the water- 
 jet), which plunges down the slope and irrigates many of the 
 fine gardens which dot the town. The hillside is laid out in 
 attractive terraces, sprinkled with parterres of flowers, through 
 which wind stone-flagged paths and stairways. The bath- 
 houses on the terrace near the springs command a beautiful 
 panorama of the surrounding country. 
 
 “ The town [says Mr. Baxter] is noted for some extraor- 
 dinary monumental architecture, the work of a contemporary 
 architect resident in the place. Ceferino Gutierrez, as he is 
 called, has made his mark upon his native city in a way that 
 recalls the activity of Tresguerras at Celaya. A poor man of 
 pure Indian blood, self-trained, having no technical knowledge 
 as a draughtsman, he imparted his ideas to his workmen by 
 marking off his working-drawings with a stick in the sand. 
 
 “ The most notable work is the new facade and tower of the 
 Church of San Miguel, the parochial temple of the town, 
 its huge aspiring mass a landmark for miles around, dominat- 
 ing the place very strangely for a Mexican city. It is extremely 
 interesting as an indigenous notion of the Gothic — an artist 
 mind, picturesquely impressionable, interpreting for itself 
 the Gothic feeling as reminiscently conveyed at second hand 
 by illustrations that came his way. It might be called ‘Goth- 
 esque ' rather than Gothic, for it is not Gothic at all except 
 in superficial suggestion. The work is illiterate, of course, as 
 might be looked for. But with all its crudeness, and even 
 positive badness, it has a certain artistic character — its im- 
 posing mass imbued with an undisciplined sense of form and 
 an untutored gift for rich expression.” 
 
 “ Ceferino Gutierrez was more on his own ground in designing the 
 stately dome for the Church of La Concepcion, originally a part of the con- 
 vent of that name. This is one of the very few domes in Mexico built with 
 a drum of two stories, and is the most successful of them all. An enchant- 
 
GONZALEZ JUNCTION 28. Route. 107 
 
 ingly poetic composition is the view of this dome from the street below, 
 rising grandly above the massively graceful spires of the solemn dark 
 cypresses in the beautiful old garden of the church-yard.” 
 
 This pseudo-Gothic edifice faces the terraced plaza near the 
 centre of the town. The original structure was erected in the 
 18th cent, and Gutierrez's renovations were applied in 1840. 
 It is dedicated to San Miguel , the patron saint. The compact, 
 cylindrical edifice, with its spires, is very striking, and was 
 built, according to the Mexicans, a todo costo (regardless of 
 cost). The central spire is surmounted by a tall cross; the 
 colored glass windows are modern and of European origin. 
 There are no pictures of note. The interior of the ch. is some- 
 what gloomy. In a little receptacle behind the altar is a 
 crucifix called Sehor de la Conquista (Lord of the Conquest), 
 a much-venerated relic. Like its counterpart in the Merida 
 Cathedral (p. 577), it is supposed to have come over with the 
 Conquistadores. Beneath the main altar is the crypt, wherein 
 are buried some distinguished ecclesiastics and civilians. 
 
 “ A picturesque site is also that of the Oratorio of San 
 Felipe Neri, built in 1712. The adjoining chapel of the Santa 
 Casa de Loreto , with a tower-like construction of superposed 
 domes, with lanterns, has an interior resembling the camarin 
 of Tepozotlan (p. 136), but its intricate splendor has been 
 unspeakably injured by the customary ignorant ‘ restoration * 
 that is the modern curse of ecclesiastical art in Mexico. 
 
 “ This Chapel of the Holy House was the gift, in 1733, of 
 Don Manuel Tomas de la Canal and his wife Doha Maria 
 Heras de Flores , whose palace at a corner of the Plaza Mayor is 
 a strikingly large and imposing example of an aristocratic 
 residence of the old days. The entrance has magnificent doors 
 of carved wood.” The portraits of these patrons of the chapel 
 are preserved therein. In the rear of this chapel is a shrine 
 in which are the bones of one of the ch. santos. 
 
 Churches of minor interest in San Miguel are San Fran- 
 cisco, with its adjoining monastery building; Nuestra Sehora de 
 la Soledad, and a number of small churches rich in microbes 
 of undoubted antiquity. 
 
 The fine hacienda immediately to the S. of San Miguel 
 is that of Begoha, from which the (nondescript) station, 590 
 M. Begoha , takes its name. We soon enter a hilly country 
 crossed by canons, chief of which is the Canon de la Laja, in 
 a picturesque setting. The distant valleys are dotted with 
 small hamlets. The lowlands are very fertile and the scenery 
 is sub-tropical. 605 M. Chamacuero. 
 
 608 M. Gonzalez Junction, point of departure for trains 
 on the branch line to Acdmbaro (thence to Morelia and Patz- 
 cuaro) via Celaya, see Rte. 29, p. 108. 
 
 Trains leave from the same station. Rly. restaurant, meals $1. The 
 traveller may sometimes secure a lodging by applying to the manager. 
 
10S Rte. 29. GONZALEZ JCT. TO ACAMBARO 
 
 who rents certain of the upstairs rooms, SI for the night. If satisfactory 
 arrangements cannot be made, one can usually get a room ($1) at the 
 Hotel Guadalupe, across the road, to the S.-W. of the station. The town is 
 poor and contains nothing of interest. 
 
 A branch line connecting Gonzalez with Soria, Salamanca 
 and Parral also leaves from this junction. 
 
 For a continuation of our journey southward see p. 109. 
 
 29. From Gonzalez Junction via Celaya and Salva- 
 tierra to Acambaro (thence to Morelia, Patzcuaro 
 and Uruapan ). 
 
 55 M. railway — F. Cs. Nacionales de Mexico (one through train daily) 
 in 2 hrs. For fare see p. xxxi. Consult the Guia Oficial. 
 
 Empalme Gonzalez, see p. 107. Our line leaves the main line and trends 
 across a fairly level, cultivated countrj T , crossed and recrossed by streams 
 and irrigating-ditches. Low hills mark the sky-line. The country affords 
 sustenance for the few small villages which dot it, and for numerous 
 flocks of goats. The stations of, 1 M. Soria , 4 M. .San Juan , 9 M. Santa 
 Rita are nondescript in character. 12 M. Celaya. comp. p. 127. We cross 
 the Rio Laja on a steel bridge. A number of white- walled churches dot 
 the hillsides. 15 M. Tomayo, amid wide cornfields. We enter a broken 
 country. 19 M. Ojo Seen (dry spring). Hereabout the soil is of a rich, 
 black loam, almost covered with small cobble-stones. High hills shut 
 in the view on the E. Many mesquite-trees rise from among the tall corn- 
 stalks. Overlapping ranges of blue-peaked hills cut the sky-line on the 1. 
 and some tiny lakelets nestle at their feet. The line curves to the E. 
 and traverses a region where corn is the great staple. 21 M. Cacalote 
 siding. The valley broadens, with hills everywhere on the horizon. Far 
 to the r. the spires of Salvatierra are visible. The line twists and turns 
 along an up-grade among hills strewn with trachytic rock, indicative of 
 volcanic activity in past ages. We obtain a commanding view of Salva- 
 tierra as we approach the town. 26 M. Corral. 
 
 35 M. Salvatierra. The tower and dome of the parochial ch. are 
 copied from those of San Francisco at Celaya. The town lies \ M. distant 
 from the station, and is connected therewith by a tranvia; fare 5 c. Agri- 
 culture is the chief industry of the region. 
 
 The train climbs steadily upward. The ruins of an old aqueduct are 
 visible on the r. — 41 M. Guzman. The train ascends gradually to a higher 
 level, crossing a rugged, volcanic country dotted with many species of 
 cacti and flowering trees. The stones which have been forced out of some 
 near-by volcano in times past have been utilized in the construction of 
 many fences, which here cross and recross the land, delimning the small 
 holdings. The native huts are most primitive, and are scarcely superior 
 to those of the stone age. 45 M. San Agustin siding. The line intersects 
 a range of hills and zig-zags among them, occasionally crossing cultivated 
 ftretenes sprinkled with trees in bloom. 47 M. San Cristobal. We emerge 
 on a broad, upland plain under high cultivation. Beyond are blue hills, 
 and behind are the lower reaches dotted by warm vaheys 48 M. Man- 
 zana. 51 M. Betti, in a fine pastoral country. The line curves to the S. 
 We cross the Rio Lerma on a steel bridge. The railway describes a broad 
 curve to the E. We pass the siding of 53 M. Silva. 
 
 55 M. Acambaro. Railway Junction. Restaurant; meals SI. Passen- 
 gers here board trains on the Mexico, Toluca and Morelia branch of the 
 National Railway for the above-named places, and for Patzcuaro , Urua- 
 pan and way stations. See Route 37, p. 191. Trains leave from the 
 same station. The town lies about 1 M. distant. Its three churches are 
 nondescript in character. The fine fruit offered for sale at the rly. sta- 
 tion attests the proximity of the tropics. Certain fruits are raised at 
 Acambaro , which is sheltered by hills. 
 
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QUERIST ARO 109 
 
 Gonzalez Junction , see p. 108. The train crosses into the State 
 of Queretaro and traverses one of the richest agricultural re- 
 gions in the Repub. Farming and stock-raising are the chief 
 industries. The rainfall is ample and the soil is very deep and 
 rich. The entire country is dotted with villages whose white 
 church-spires rise above the surrounding trees. Organ cactus 
 takes the place of picket fences, and certain of the cultivated 
 plots are delimned by tall, spiky maguey plants. Tall hills 
 mark the E. and W. sky-line and the intervening valleys are 
 celebrated for bumper crops. These follow each other with 
 amazing regularity, and it is not uncommon to see sprouting 
 crops adjacent to ripening grain and newly ploughed fields. 
 The fertility of the land is attested by the myriad products 
 offered for sale by women peddlers at the wayside stations. 
 In the lead are many fine fruits — some of them — which are 
 plucked green — of a colicky nature and to be avoided. The 
 tamales and enchiladas are so charged with pepper that they 
 are apt to corrode a tender stomach, but the rancheros , and 
 the second-class passengers, eat them with undeniable gusto 
 and an apparently insatiable appetite. The strawberries 
 are excellent; the milk is oftentimes that of goats. We pass 
 the unimportant stations of 615 M. Jocoqui , 623 M. Cosio, and 
 629 M. Adjuntas. As we approach Queretaro the tree-dotted 
 landscape reminds one of a rich section of the U. S. A. The 
 land is beautifully green; shy blue hills peer above the hori- 
 zon, and at certain seasons miles of the rich valley land are 
 carpeted with brilliant wild-flowers that show vast blotches 
 of exquisite color. The fat valleys are the grazing-ground 
 of cattle, sheep and goats. The hills are opaliferous — the re- 
 gion being celebrated for the production of these attractive 
 stones. 
 
 The polychrome tile domes of many churches soon come into the range 
 of vision. Just before reaching the station of Queretaro we see, on the ex- 
 treme r., the Cerro de las Campanas and the brown-stone chapel which marks 
 the spots where the Archduke Maximilian and the Mexican Generals Mira - 
 mon and Mejia were executed. (See p. 119.) 
 
 The traveller interested in this unfortunate prince and his equally un- 
 happy consort should inspect the many Maximilian relics enshrined in the 
 Museum at Mexico City, described at pp. 306-07. There, too, are excellent 
 portraits of the imperial pair, with a host of personal belongings of both the 
 emperor and the empress. The former is remembered by Mexicans with 
 pity: the latter with sincere appreciation, for she interested herself greatly 
 m the life of the people, and was both loved and respected by them. One of 
 the many happy reforms attributed to her is the flower-crowned plaza which 
 is a feature of almost every Mexican town. It is said that originally many 
 of them were paved with flat stones and were dedicated more to military 
 science than to the simple arts. To her is credited the idea of planting them 
 with flowers and installing a music stand. She made the beautiful Paseo de 
 la Reforma, at Mexico City, what it is to-day — one of the finest boule- 
 vards in the world. 
 
 Queretaro. See the next page. For a continuation of the 
 journey, see page 129. 
 
110 Route SO. 
 
 QUERETARO 
 
 Opals . 
 
 30. Queretaro. 
 
 Arrival. The city lies about a mile to the S.-W. of tne station and is con- 
 nected thereto by tram-cars which usually meet all trains. The highroad to 
 the city is not always in state for walking, and the traveller is advised to 
 patronize the tranvias or the jitneys and cabs usually to be found nearby. 
 
 Autos and Cabs. Ford jitneys at S2.50 the hour; SI. 50 for £ hour or less. 
 Cabs about 25 per cent less. Both charge higher prices (sometimes double) 
 Dn Sundays and dias de fiesta — which latter are frequent. Special arrange- 
 ments should be made for out-of-town trips. 
 
 Tramways ( tranvias ) are unusually popular because they run to so many 
 of the delightful little suburban places for which the city is known. Cars 
 ( carros ) run at frequent intervals to the picturesq.ue spot called Hercules, 
 to La Canada, Pueblito, etc. An excursion to any of these places affords the 
 visitor a pleasant outing and a good view of the suburbs. 
 
 The Opal Mines ( minas de opalos ) referred to below, are outside the city. 
 Permit must be secured from the owners to visit them. The polishing of 
 the stones is usually done in the city. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). Hcg-el Iivternacional, cor. Juarez and Madero Sts.; 
 Hotel de Guadalupe; Hotel Hidalgo; Hotel Ferrocarril; all with rooms from 
 $2 a day and up. Room and board from $4 up. 
 
 Banks. The Banco Nacional de Mexico is the correspondent of the Mexico 
 City Banking Corporation. 
 
 Queretaro (5,947 ft.), capital of the State of the same 
 name, with 37,000 inhabitants; one of the most important 
 cities in the Mexican Confederation, 167 M. north of Mex. 
 City, in a fertile valley lying along the slope of a hillock known 
 as Sangremal, is divided by the waters of the Queretaro River 
 which runs through it. The upper part of the town, toward 
 the Plazuela de la Cruz , is clean and well drained. Many of the 
 houses are very old, and are quaint relics of Colonial days, 
 with half-obliterated escutcheons above the doorways. It is 
 not as progressive as some of the Mex. cities, but its quaint- 
 ness makes it attractive. It is a reliquary of Mexican history. 
 Here the plans for national independence were formed, and 
 here the Archduke Maximilian was shot June 19, 1867. 
 
 Fine Opals are found on some of the haciendas contiguous 
 to the city, and they are offered for sale on the streets and 
 in the hotels. 
 
 Travellers will find it to their advantage to purchase opals of reputable 
 dealers only, as the tricks in the opal trade are numerous. The stones 
 offered for sale in and about the railway stations and on the city streets 
 arp apt to be inferior. The finest opals usually find their way to the 
 hands of the first-class dealers in such goods in the City of Mexico. The 
 traveller is particularly cautioned against the self-styled lapidarios — men 
 who claim to be opal-polishers and who have in their possession stones 
 said to have been stolen by them. These men are untrustworthy and they 
 should be avoidpd or treated with the suspicion and contempt one wrnuld 
 accord any self-confessed thief. 
 
 History. Queretaro was founded in 1440 by the Otomie 
 Indians (a branch of the Otomian family), whose original habi- 
 tat was the region at present comprised by the States of Mex- 
 ico, Puebla and Vera Cruz. The hamlet was known in Indian 
 annals as Taxco — a Tarascan Indian word signifying ball, 
 or a place where ball-games were played. When the Otomian 
 
80. Route. Ill 
 
 QUERETARO 
 
 nation was conquered by the Aztecs under Montezuma the 
 town was made an outpost of the Aztec Confederacy, and for 
 many years it was the scene of almost continuous fighting be- 
 tween the overbearing Aztecs, and the Chichimec and Micho- 
 acan Indians. The Spaniards captured it in 1531, changed 
 its name, and incorporated the region into the Province of 
 Xilotepec. As a reward for certain services to the Crown, the 
 Spanish King gave it to four Hispanized Indian nobles, Balta- 
 sar del Carnpo , Juan de Luna , Lucas Ramirez and Miguel de 
 la Paz , and with it the title of Caballeros Conquistador es y 
 Fundadores de la Villa — Conquering Cavaliers and Founders 
 of the Town. The name of the place was soon thereafter al- 
 tered to Santiago de Queretaro, because of an alleged miracu- 
 lous manifestation during a fiesta of Santiago (St. James). 
 According to the Church historian a great cross of red and 
 gold appeared in the sky and an angel was seen near it. The 
 credulous Indians accepted this as an evidence of divine pro- 
 tection and a Capilla (that of Santa Cruz — Holy Cross) 
 was erected on a hill beneath the place in the sky where the 
 cross appeared. 
 
 By virtue of a royal order signed by Felipe IV, Queretaro was 
 made a ciudad in 1655. In 1808, it sprang into prominence 
 as the cradle of Mexican Independence. A Society for the 
 Study of the Fine Arts (which to its founders were synonym- 
 ous with the expulsion of the Spaniards from Mexico) was 
 established in the house number 14 in the Calle del Descanso. 
 
 4The charter members of this society, which was destined to 
 be enshrined in Mexican history, were the Padre Jose Maria 
 Sanchez , the Licentiate Juan N . Mier y Altamarino, Don An- 
 tonio Tellez , D. Mariano Lazo de la Vega , and the Juriscon- 
 sulto Arellano. The house soon became recognized as the focus 
 of the revolutionary spirit, which in due course and with the 
 efforts of the Cura Hidalgo succeeded in casting off the yoke 
 of Spain from Mexico. 
 
 The Palacio Municipal (PI. C, 3), on the Plaza de la Inde- 
 pendence , was once the home of the Corregidora Dominguez, 
 a prominent and valiant figure in the War for Independence. 
 On the facade of the old building is an inscription in Span- 
 ish as follows : — 
 
 “ In this palacio dwelt the distinguished heroine Josefa 
 Ortiz de Dominguez. From it she hastened the national in- 
 dependence by giving opportune notice to the patriot Ignacio 
 Allende, thus enshrining herself in Mexican history and ren- 
 dering memorable the night of September 15, 1810.” 
 
 On the second floor, in the council chamber, is a collection 
 of portraits of benefactors of the city. Near this sola is the 
 one-time bedroom of the Sehora Dominguez; the floor forms 
 the roof of a dark apartment in which the humble jailor, 
 Ignacio Perez , listened on the night of Sept. 13, 1810, until 
 
Plaza. 
 
 112 Route 30. QUERETARO 
 
 he heard three taps of the Corregidora’s foot, the signal that 
 their conspiracy against the Spanish rulers was discovered 
 and that he must hasten to advise the Cura Hidalgo at Dolores. 
 In the museum of the Palacio Federal (p. 118) is a lock (pre- 
 served in a crystal casket) through wdiich the daring and pa- 
 triotic lady whispered final instructions to the trusty alcalde. 
 
 The Plaza de la Independencia (2 sqrs. E. of the Plaza 
 Zenea , see PI. C, 3) is intimately associated with the downfall 
 of Maximilian’s Empire. During the siege of Quereto.ro, when 
 the harassed Emperor was penned in by the Mexican troops, 
 he often came to this flower-crowned spot to sit on the stone 
 curb of the fountain and perchance to dream of the mutability 
 of mundane affairs. When this fact became known to the be- 
 siegers, the plaza was made the objective point of shells, 
 one of which struck the original statue of the Marques de la 
 Villa del Villar del Aguila and demolished it — a fact referred 
 to on the tablet let into the E. side of the pedestal of the present 
 statue. This inscription says further that the first stone of the 
 fountain was laid March 28, 1843. The present statue dates 
 from 1892. The inscription on the W. side says the Marques 
 began the construction of the aqueduct, which brings water 
 to the city, Dec. 26, 1726, and concluded it Oct. 15, 1735. 
 The S. inscription advises that the huge undertaking cost 
 SI 3 1,091, of which the Marquis paid out of his own pocket 
 $88,287. Many water-carriers come to this fountain to fill their 
 pottery ollas with the precious liquid, to distribute it later to 
 various clients in the city. The trees and parterres of flowfkrs 
 are attractive. The old house with the tile decoration, that 
 flanks the plaza on the W., is a quaint example of Colonial 
 architecture. To reach this plaza from the Jardin Zenea, pass 
 to the rear of the Cathedral and follow the Calle Miguel Hidalgo. 
 
 The Plaza, or Jardin Zenea (PI. C, 3), in the centre of the 
 city, and flanked on one side by the Cathedral, is the focus 
 of the commercial life. Music in the kiosko on Sundays and 
 certain evenings of the week. On Sunday mornings the plaza 
 is very animated. Many dealers in old books bring their small 
 stocks to this spot, spread them out near the entrance to the 
 Cathedral, and do a petty business. Stretching from this point 
 to the market at the S. are usually many impromptu stands 
 where attractive straw hats, cotton cloth, chocolate-whirlers 
 (molinillos) and a wide variety of home-made Indian knick- 
 knacks are offered for sale. At noon-time the church bells in 
 the immediate vicinity produce a deafening chorus. At the 
 N.-W. corner of the plaza a tablet let into the house number 
 84 advises that “ Sept. 13, 1810, the revolutionary patriot 
 and meritorious citizen Epigmenio Gonzalez , who dwelt here, 
 was arrested for making ammunition to be used by the re- 
 volucionarios in their struggle for independence.” Facing the 
 Jardin on the E. is 
 
Cathedral. QUERETARO SO. Route. 113 
 
 The Cathedral (PI. C, 3), a somewhat nondescript structure 
 built by the Spaniards soon after the conquest of the town, 
 and which probably dates from about 1535. Before the erec- 
 tion of the Queretaro diocese (in 1867) it was called the Church 
 of San Francisco. It has undergone many modifications, some 
 of which have sadly marred it; a notable restoration was 
 one executed in 1727 by the order of Fray Fernando Alonzo 
 Gonzalez , Commissioner-General of the Indies. An old coat- 
 of-arms is still to be seen on the N. fagade. Perhaps the most 
 noteworthy feature of the interior is the polychrome statue 
 of San Diego de Alcala (carved in wood, by Arce, the celebrated 
 Queretaro sculptor) which perhaps dates from about 1606. 
 The elaborate iron reja which encloses the organ loft, and the 
 metal adornments of the organ itself are worth looking at. 
 Many frames filled with votive offerings hang before the altar 
 dedicated to El Sagrado Corazon de Jesus , and many small 
 paintings near that of San Antonio de Padua. The striking great 
 tower and dome, covered with glazed tiles in the Mudejar 
 style, are not without interest. 
 
 The Collegiate Convent of Santa Rosa de Viterbo, 
 a 17th-cent. foundation on the Calle de Santa Rosa, S.-W. of 
 the Jardin Zenea (PI. B, 4), aside from being one of the quaint- 
 est of the city churches, is of peculiar interest as being one 
 of the earliest works of Eduardo de Tresguerras (p. 128), as it 
 was placed in his hands for radical reconstruction. The dome, 
 the tower and the cloisters are his work, as well as the ex- 
 terior ornamentation in general, including the entrances and 
 the balustrades of the roof. It is said that an enormous sum 
 realized from merchandise seized from smugglers ( contra - 
 bandistas) was placed at his disposal for this purpose. The 
 buttresses of the fagade are among the most curious in Mexico. 
 The huge faces 1 which look down from the outer curve of the 
 inverted arches are very theatrical, and it needed just such a 
 daring mind as that of Tresguerras to apply them to ecclesi- 
 astical architecture in Mexico. The fine dome, with its poly- 
 chrome tiles, is altogether quaint. The pagoda-like tip of the 
 old belfry is of Oriental aspect. The tawdry neighborhood 
 and the unkempt streets detract from the fine old relic, and 
 this impression is not lessened by the appearance of the Hos- 
 pital Civil , which now occupies the one-time sumptuous 
 convent on the E. side of the church. 
 
 The small interior, now narrowed to a single nave without 
 aisles, is filled with superb Churrigueresque altars and reredos, 
 and its richness recalls the fine Santo Domingo church at Oaxa- 
 
 1 These are perhaps the only examples in Mexico of the Saracen heads 
 (vulgarly called La Ca.rasa , in Spain) which often figure in the architec- 
 tural decoration of old Catalan churches. They commemorate the re- 
 conquest from the Moors, and the Triumph of Christianity over Ma- 
 homedanism. In Spanish churches they occasionally form a part of the 
 organ, and are made to work and speak by means of a pedal. 
 
114 Route 30. QUERETARO Santa Clara. 
 
 ca City (p. 528). The old altars are regal: in some places the 
 gold leaf is spread on so thick as to resemble gold plate. From 
 the ashes of the magnificent altar burned by the French 
 soldiery during the occupation of Queretaro, gold of immense 
 value is said to have been recovered. The paintings of the altars 
 are of no merit; those of the altar nearest the prebisterio , de- 
 pict scenes in the apparition of the Virgin of Guadalupe to 
 Juan Diego (comp. p. 394) . The central paintingis a reproduction 
 of Murillo’s Assumption in the Guadalajara Cathedral (p. 166). 
 
 The bizarre confessionals add to the quaint character of 
 the ch. The Coro “ is a masterpiece of its kind, with its deli- 
 cate, simple grill-work in wrought-iron ; below and above, 
 and, filling the arches, are rich effects of gilded metal- work in 
 Arabesque designs.” The numerous painted santos, in gilt 
 frames, above the reja, which separates the coro from the 
 body of the ch., are by unknown artists. Other fine examples 
 of early wrought-iron work are the screened balconies for the 
 Mother Superior. 
 
 “The Sacristia is a handsome vaulted room that still 
 remains much as Tresguerras left it. Of its decorations — be- 
 side the great central feature — the laver, or lavamanos , on 
 the right is the most elaborate. The chief attraction, however, 
 is the magnificent mural decoration that entirely occupies 
 the head of the room. Tresguerras was paid 15,000 pesos 
 for this, his largest and most important work. This is one of 
 the most interesting mural paintings in Mexico, and it has 
 been spoken of as one of the most notable examples of mural 
 decoration in the New World. In form and color the com- 
 position would do credit to Murillo , and for grace and naivete, 
 and suggestiveness of peace and purity, it is most notable.” 
 
 “The graciousness of the groups” (says Mr. Baxter), “the absence of 
 self-consciousness in the figures, and their human feeling, makes it re- 
 presentative of the best flowering of the great Spanish School on Mexi- 
 can soil. The picture is called the Hortus Conclusus ( The Closed Garden), 
 in the inscription over the figure of the Virgin, and is an allegorical repre- 
 sentation of the nuns and their pupils at work in the garden of the con- 
 vent combined with a symbolization of Santa Rosa , in which lambs 
 receive white row s from the Virgin and bear them to the feet of the cruci- 
 fied Saviour to be turned red by the blood from his wounds. The angel 
 with the vase of roses and lilies receives the stream of water and of blood 
 from the Saviour’s side so that the water falls upon the white lilies and 
 the blood upon the red roses.” 
 
 The polychrome, life-size figures of Christ and the 12 Apostles, 
 which are ranged along the base of the picture, on top of the 
 dilapidated estante , or vestment-chest, impart an odd aspect, 
 as they seem not to have been selected for amiability of coun- 
 tenance. The old marquetry table in the centre of the room 
 is a weather-beaten example of the one-time beautiful work 
 for which Queretaro was long celebrated. 
 
 The Convent Church of Santa Clara, which faces the 
 jardin of the same name (PI. C, 4), is another of the old Quere - 
 
QUERETARO 
 
 30. Route . 115 
 
 taro landmarks and was founded in 1607, When completed 
 it was one of the largest conventual buildings in Mexico, and 
 it sheltered, it is said, upward of 8,000 nuns. Much of the 
 present reconstruction work is by Tresguerras. Like that of 
 Santa Rosa, this ch. is of the regular conventual type, in- 
 corporated into the main structure of the convent, with a 
 long barrel-arched interior parallel with the street. The ex- 
 terior work of Tresguerras was probably confined mainly to 
 the dome and the tower, both adorned with glazed tiles — 
 the dome having a pattern of blue on a yellow ground ; the 
 same marks the dome of the lantern, whose base is of white 
 and blue. The lowest belt of the tower has a pattern of blue 
 and white on yellow and light green ; the middle belts are blue, 
 yellow and white below and blue and white above; the dome 
 of the tower blue and white over a belt of yellow and white. 
 
 “The interior, which is smaller than that of Santa Rosa , is 
 equally rich in its decoration. The balcony of the Mother 
 Superior with the doorway below, and the splendid reredos 
 of the altar of La Purisima , on the opposite wall, are designed 
 as pendants. It is notable how in this work Rococo motives 
 have largely replaced those of the Churrigueresque. Interesting 
 features are the lace-work designs of the borders. The pulpit 
 is a rich example of gilded carving, accented with color. The 
 polychrome sculpture of Santa Clara is exceptionally good, — 
 especially the work of the two celebrated masters (natives 
 of Queretaro) Mariano Arce and Mariano Perusquia. Par- 
 ticularly fine is the group of La Piedad by Arce, notable 
 for the masterly handling of the draperies as well as the 
 monumental quality of the composition and the contrast 
 between the Virgin Mother’s intensity of grief and the peace- 
 ful repose expressed in the relaxed form of the dead Saviour. 
 Of exceptional note also is the Crucifix by Perusquia in the 
 choir. 
 
 “The Master Bartolico was the sculptor of the Nazareno 
 in this church ; a figure notable for its expression of suffering 
 commingled with sweetness. There is a tradition that the 
 Santo Entierro , or entombment, is also his.” (Sylvester Baxter.) 
 
 The six massive and splendidly preserved Churrigueresque 
 altars impart an air of great richness to the interior, and there 
 are few finer examples of Churriguera' s art extant in Mexico. 
 Note the old wheel of bells near the high altar. 
 
 The dilapidated stone fountain in the jardin dates from 
 1806. 
 
 “The Church and Convent of San Agustin at the 
 corner of the Calle del Aguila and S. Agustin (PI. C, 4), in their 
 richly decorative picturesqueness, might easily be supposed 
 to betoken an antiquity antedating by two or three centuries 
 the period of their erection, the middle of the 18th cent., when 
 they were designed by the Augustinian Monks Luis Martinez 
 
116 Route SO. 
 
 QUERETARO 
 
 Lucio and Carlos Benito de Butron Moxica. The figures of 
 the angels with enormous plumes, that stand at the base of 
 the dome, which is beautifully decorated with blue and white 
 glazed tile, might easily be taken for statues of native caciques 
 executing a dance in honor of some old pagan divinity. It 
 has been pointed out that the quaint caryatides on the cloister 
 arcade seem to be making the signs of the deaf-mute alphabet 
 with their huge uplifted hands.” The somewhat elaborate 
 interior with its wealth of gilding was redecorated in 1903. 
 This ch., standing as it does on a platform reached by seven 
 steps, exemplifies an architectural feature of the Querctaro 
 churches in that many of them are based on platforms which 
 materially enhance their impressiveness. One square to the 
 W., on the other side of the street, is the weather-beaten 
 
 Church of Santo Domingo (Pl. B, 4), a structure of striking 
 irregularity, with its double-naved interior and its domes side 
 by side and representing two different periods in construction. 
 
 The Church of San Felipe Neri, on the comer of the 
 Calles del Angel and San Felipe (Pl. B,4), has an elaborate 
 facade somewhat striking in that the six pillars stand clear 
 of the wall and support a superstructure of smaller pillars 
 and arches. In the sacristy are several time-stained, but 
 good, examples of the artistic woodwork for which the early 
 Querctaro artisans were famous. 
 
 The large Church of La Congregacion or Nuestra Seiiora 
 de Guadalupe , a modern structure on the comer of the Calle 
 Felipe Luna and Guadalupe (Pl. C, 3), is dedicated to the 
 Virgin of Guadalupe , and is noteworthy for a life-size statue 
 of this lady, who stands out on a covered platform high 
 above the main entrance. The peaked towers are covered 
 with solid color tiles of red, white and green, thus forming 
 the national colors. The same color design ornaments the 
 base of the fa' ade. The ch. is perched on high ground and its 
 towers are visible for many miles. One square to the W., 
 further up the hill, is the antiquated Parroquia del Sagra- 
 rio (PL C,3), with curious flying buttresses and other archi- 
 tectural features similar to those of Santa Rosa. The interior 
 is uninteresting. 
 
 The Church of San Antonio, facing the plaza of the same 
 name (PL C, 3), dates from the 17th cent, and contains a huge 
 allegorical painting by Gregorio Romero, in 1728. 
 
 One of the “sights” of Querctaro is the Great Aqueduct 
 (PL D,4), which brings potable water into the city from 
 La Canada , at San Pedro. This monumental work (compare 
 the inscriptions on the base of the statue to the Marques de 
 la Villa del Villar del Aguila in the Plaza de la Independeneia ) , 
 is 8 kilometers long, 96 ft. high, with 74 arches 50 ft. high 
 upborne by piers 46 ft. thick. It is one of the four most im- 
 portant aqueducts in the Republic, the others being that of 
 
QUERETARO 
 
 SO. Route. 1 IT 
 
 Zacatecas , of Zempoalla and of Xalpan. The latter has the 
 extraordinary height of about 200 ft. with three tiers of arches. 
 The city terminus of the aqueduct is the Plazuela de la 
 Cruz (PI. D, 3), which is reached from the Plaza de la Indepen - 
 dencia by threading the short Calle de Ignacio Perez (at the 
 S.-W. corner of the plaza) thence to the 1. up the Calles de 
 la Flor Alta , de Cornelio , and C. Alta de la Cruz. What was 
 perhaps once a handsome terminal fountain is now a neglected 
 ruin in an uninviting neighborhood. Two well-preserved in- 
 scriptions let into the terminal wall refer to the construction 
 of the aqueduct and its completion. The inscriptions them- 
 selves are very quaint examples of ancient text, and they 
 advise the curious that the work was begun Dec. 26, 1726, 
 during the reign of Felipe V of Spain and the Spanish Viceroy 
 (to Mexico) the Marques de Casafuerte , and that it was com- 
 pleted Oct. 19, 1739, in the time of the Viceroy Juan Antonio 
 Vizaron y Eguiarreta. Furthermore, that the work was done 
 under the supervision of Don Juan Antonio Virrun y Arana, 
 Gentleman of the Order of Alcantara and Marquis of la Villa 
 del Villar. 
 
 The Fountain of Neptune (at the N.-E. corner of the 
 Jardin Zenea, PI. G, 3) is connected with this terminus, and it 
 was erected by the ayuntamiento in 1797, and reconstructed 
 in 1848. To the left of the aqueduct terminal, at the extreme 
 top of the Plazuela de la Cruz — the highest point in the 
 town and one whence splendid views are obtainable — is 
 
 The Templo de la Cruz (Ch. of the Cross), in the Plazuela 
 de la Cruz (PI. D, 3). It occupies an historic site celebrated 
 for a hand-to-hand conflict between the invading Spaniards 
 and the Indian owners of the region, and which decided the 
 fate of the locality. 
 
 Don Fernando de Tapia , one of the conquist adores, accompanied by the 
 caciques of Tula and Tapeji, and a horde of Indian allies of the Span- 
 iards, advanced on Queretaro and sent forward, to the Otomie chieftain, 
 an emissary armed with peace proposals. The Indians decided not to 
 give up their homes without a struggle, but, realizing the futility of a 
 bow-and-arrow attack on the mail-clad Castilians, the wily cacique pro- 
 posed a fist-fight, which offer was promptly accepted. The conflict began 
 on the morning of July 25, 1531, and lasted till sundown. Thousands of 
 husky Indians on the one side, and the hordes of Indian allies and the 
 Spaniards on the other, waged what was perhaps the greatest battle of 
 fisticuffs on record. The Spaniards were of course victorious, and the 
 Indians, who proved themselves good losers, spent the night dancing in 
 honor of their new ruler, His Spanish Majesty Charles V. In due time, 
 the spot was marked by a stone cross, — emblematic of the new religion, 
 — and this now occupies a place near the Altar Mayor. 
 
 The old convento, which adjoins the ch., was used by Max- 
 imilian and his besieged troops as a barrack. The spot was 
 one of the first occupied by the Mexican General Escobedo 
 when Queretaro fell, May 15, 1867. The view from the old 
 belfry is very fine. In the N. wall of the ch. is a striking 
 
118 Route 30. 
 
 QUERETARO 
 
 marble monument representing a weeping woman holding aloft 
 a candle whose light is extinguished. The figure kneels at the 
 foot of a pedestal on which are the inscriptions : 
 
 “Maria Josefa Fernandez, July 22, 1809.” 
 
 “The city council ordered the erection of this monument 
 Oct. 30, 1869, as a testimonial of the public gratitude.” (The 
 Seiiora Fernandez was a public benefactress.) 
 
 El Palacio Federal in the Calle de San Agustin (PI. C, 4) 
 is also the work of Tresguerras. It possesses a handsome patio 
 with beautiful arches in the Spanish-Moorish style. Its chief 
 interest to strangers centres in the political museum (free) 
 which contains a number of Maximilian relics. A noteworthy 
 object is the plain deal coffin — ataud — in a glass case to 
 protect it from relico-maniacs, in which the Emperor’s body 
 was laid after his execution. Note the bloodstain, shaped 
 something like a hand, in the bottom. Here also are the 
 benches on which the Mexican Generals Miramon and Mejia 
 — Maximilian’s faithful aides — sat during the court-mar- 
 tial; the table and ink-stand used by the judge; the lock 
 through the key-hole of which went the whispered command 
 that plunged Mexico into a ten years’ war (comp. p. 112); 
 an old flag of the Queretaro battalion, and portraits of numer- 
 ous persons who became distinguished in the wars for Inde- 
 pendence, freedom from the Imperialists, and for Reform. 
 Maximilian’s death-sentence is to be seen among the official 
 archives in the palace. On the ground floor there is a per- 
 manent museum (uninteresting) of state products. 
 
 Excursions: To San Pedro de la Canada (PI. F, 2), 5 M. 
 from the city on the tram-line, with 2,000 inhabitants, and 
 many small neat houses embowered in flowers and fruit trees, 
 is one of the favorite drives. The town, which is named for its 
 patron saint, San Pedro, contains some fine thermal springs 
 and baths — Banos de San Pedro de la Canada. 
 
 Fabrica de Hercules (H. Mills) in the centre of the town 
 of the same name (PI. F, 2). The majority of the inhab. (8,000) 
 find employment in the great cotton-mills, which possess a huge 
 water-wheel 47 ft. in diameter, and are driven by two big 
 engines, and by water brought through a fine old aqueduct. 
 The splendid statue of Hercules which stands in the jardin 
 facing the mill, was brought from Italy, at a cost of 814,000. 
 There are other manufacturing plants in the neighborhood. 
 Near the Quinta de Patehe is a thermal spring. A morning 
 can be spent very pleasantly and cheaply in a tram-ride 
 through Hercules, San Pedro and Patehe. 
 
 At Pueblito, see PI. A, 3 (reached by the tranvia ), sometimes 
 called San Francisco , there is, in a locally celebrated shrine 
 (of Nuestra Sefiora del Pueblito ), a much- venerated image 
 known as La Virgen del Pueblito. According to Church his- 
 torians the image, which is two-thirds life-size, was carved by 
 
QUERETARO STATE 80. Route. 119 
 
 a monk, Fray Sebastian Gallegos , who dwelt in the Convento 
 de San Francisco , about 1632. The credulous believe that 
 the figure smiles, weeps, frowns, sweats and accomplishes 
 miracles. The ch. dates from 1766. 
 
 The spot toward which the feet of most travellers to Quere- 
 taro turn irresistibly is the Cerro de las Campanas, or Hill 
 of the Bells, on the W. edge of the city (PL A, 3). 
 
 By cab 50 c., providing the traveller makes an agreement with the 
 cochero to this effect. A good walker can make the journey to and from 
 the Jardin Zenea in about an hour, allowing 20 min. to rest and inspect 
 the chapel. Permits must be secured from the Administrador del Palacio , 
 at the municipal palace in the city. No fees. We leave the N.-W. corner 
 of the Jardin Zenea , proceed one sqr. N. to the Calle de San Antonio, 
 turn sharply to the 1. and follow this past the Instituto Metodista and the 
 Church of Las Capuchinas, and throughout the length of the Third Calle 
 San Antonio: prolonging which are the Calle del Placer, C. de la Laguna 
 and C. de la Fabrica. At the end of this last-named street, the country 
 begins. We follow the country road for a short distance, then turn to the 
 r., strike across country to the left and reach the foot of the hill which is 
 in sight from the time we leave the end of the street. 
 
 The brown-stone chapel, La Capilla de Maximiliano, 
 erected by the order of the Austrian Government (in 1901) at 
 a cost of $10,000, replaced the three stone shafts which 
 formerly marked the spot of execution. Sixteen stone steps 
 lead up to the platform, and 5 thence to the chapel entrance, 
 which is barred and locked. Persons without a permit can 
 look through the iron grill and see the three squat stone pillars 
 which mark the spots where Maximilian, Miramon and Mejia 
 fell, but they cannot enter the chapel. A wreath of artificial 
 flowers rests upon the shaft marked Maximilian. The collec- 
 tion box in the chapel is for donations towards a free school 
 maintained in Queretaro. The painting above the altar is a 
 Descent from the Cross, and is of no particular merit. For the 
 causes which led up to the execution of the unfortunate em- 
 peror see p. ccxx. 
 
 According to a local orator the Light of Liberty shines in 
 the sarcophagus of the Sertora Ortiz de Dominguez , in the 
 Pantheon of la Cruz, at the east, and at the west, on the 
 Cerro de las Campanas , is the Sepulchre of a Monarchy. 
 
 Queretaro State, one of the smallest of the Mex. posses- 
 sions, classed politically as an Estado del Centro , pop. 232,389, 
 area 9,215 sqr. kilom., rich in minerals, a well-cultivated and 
 prosperous region, is bounded on the N. by San Luis Potosi; 
 on the E. by Hidalgo and Mexico; on the S. by Michoacan and 
 on the W. by Guanajuato. The state comprises almost equal 
 portions of mountain and fine valley land, with a vegetation 
 proper to the temperate and torrid zones. The lowlands are 
 extraordinarily rich; in some places the soil is 10-15 ft. deep. 
 The northern section is mountainous ; the southern and central 
 are covered by extensive plains and valleys. The latter pro- 
 duce fruits, flowers, grain, trees and medicinal plants in almost 
 
120 Rte. 2S. SAN LUIS POTOSI TO MEXICO CITY 
 
 endless variety. The pine-apples, dates, bananas, pomegran- 
 ates, chirimoyas, guavas, strawberries, figs, lemons and limes 
 are much prized. The Camote or sweet potato ( Batatas 
 edulis), which thrives in many regions of the temperate zone, 
 reaches a high perfection here, and its yellowish roots are much 
 esteemed. 
 
 The Climate of the state is cool in the Amealco and Cade - 
 reyta regions, temperate in Queretaro and San Juan del Rio 
 and hot in Jalpan and Tollman. The rainfall is moderate, 
 frosts are light and the winds are variable. The prevailing 
 diseases are malarial fevers and affections of the respiratory 
 and digestive organs. 
 
 The River System is represented by the Conca or Jalpan , 
 the Extoraz , Montezuma and Galindo rivers, and others of minor 
 note. There are many mineral springs. 
 
 The Opal Mines (described at p. xci) produce considerable 
 revenue, albeit they are crudely and unsystematically worked. 
 
 There are important mercury deposits at San Jose de Itur - 
 bide, Rio Blanco , Culebras, San Onofre and El Doctor. At San 
 Onofre is found the sulphoselenide of mercury known as 
 onofrite. 
 
 Queretaro (p. 109). The grade of the railway slopes upward 
 and we get a good view of the ch. spires of the city as we pass 
 it on the E. In the S. suburb is the fine old aqueduct and 
 we get a comprehensive vista of it, stretching across the val- 
 ley to the point where it joins the conduit at the base of the 
 hill. We thread a narrow gorge, with hills on the 1., to 637 M. 
 Hercules , with large cotton-mills and a miniature town devoted 
 to the workmen. The valley above the mills is choked with 
 sub-tropical vegetation. Here are bathing-resorts and picnic- 
 grounds. The prospect widens. The hills retreat to a distant 
 horizon and at 645 M. La Griega we emerge on an upland plain. 
 654 M. Noria, in the centre of a beautiful wide plain. Afew^miles 
 beyond the station the land flattens out till it is as level as a 
 floor. On the 1. are hundreds of fruit trees set out at regular 
 intervals. The region is considered one of the finest in Mex- 
 ico and land values are estimated in accordance. The views 
 to the r. over a cacti-sprinkled district are beguiling. 665 M. 
 La Llave. A picturesque willed hacienda , with castellated 
 towers, is seen on the r. From 670 M. San Nicolas, a region 
 devoted to the cultivation of pulque , the upward grade be- 
 comes perceptibly steeper and the line traverses a broken 
 country of many curves. At 675 M. Bernal the scenery takes 
 on a more rugged character and many miles of valley land, 
 marked by lakes and hamlets, delight the eye. The train passes 
 through many cuts made through the brown rock. We cross 
 into the State of Hidalgo and enter a short tunnel. 681 M. 
 M ereader. The views to the 1. are very attractive. 
 
Chone. 
 
 HUICHAPAN 
 
 28. Route. 121 
 
 The line crosses many gulleys, at the ends of some of which 
 are artificial dams, or presas, where water is collected during 
 the rainy season to be used in irrigating the land during the 
 dry months. Cacti is the dominant vegetation. We proceed 
 across a rocky, picturesque region to 694 M. Chone, one of 
 the scenic points of the line. Near this station a deep rift in 
 the land (best seen from the 1. of the train) contains many 
 stone pillar-like formations caused by the erosion of the little 
 river which runs through its depths. We cross it on a steel 
 bridge. 698 M. Atlan. 
 
 703 M. Huichapan (in the State of Mexico). Rly. restaurant, 
 meals $1. The nondescript town clusters about the tall ch. to 
 the far left of the station. The elevation of Huichapan is about 
 that of the Valley of Mexico, but as we proceed southward the 
 grade slopes steadily upward. Many twists and turns and ter- 
 races cut from the hillsides are necessary to compass the higher 
 levels. The views across the wide valleys which spread out 
 toward the left are never without interest. We pass the unin- 
 teresting stations of 709 M. Mejia and 715 M. Nopala. After 
 leaving Nopala we reach the crest of the range (7,800 ft. — 
 400 ft. higher than Mexico City) and begin the descent. 723 
 M. Escandon. The region is one of grassy uplands. 
 
 732 M. Sayula in a jejune district where artificial irrigation 
 is practised. The region is unproductive except where small 
 patches of land have been reclaimed and watered. Some 
 deepish gorges are features of the landscape, and, later, a 
 splendid horse-shoe curve (best seen from the 1.) is compassed. 
 The land falls sharply away to the 1. and affords extensive 
 views of wide valleys with hamlets advertised by ch. spires. 
 
 741 M. Endo, a shipping-point for charcoal prepared in the 
 near-by hills. Range after range of mountains overlap against 
 the sky-line. Pulque (p. lxxxii) and wheat (p.429) are the staple 
 crops of the intervening valleys. At this elevation the aloe or 
 maguey attains its highest perfection, and wide fields of the fine 
 plants, set out in symmetrical rows, are features of the land- 
 scape. The line again slopes upward to the level of the Valley 
 of Mexico. 744 M. Carrasco. 750 M. Teocalco. 756 M .Calera. 
 Certain of the old churches which enliven the views hereabout 
 are interesting in that their roof-walls are in the form of crenel- 
 lated parapets, as if erected both as places of worship and 
 of defence. Some are in the Early Franciscan Style (see p. cxxix) 
 and their massive buttressed walls and sturdy towers are hoary 
 with the weight of centuries. 
 
 At the time of the Spanish invasion this region was under Aztec influ- 
 ence. Immediately after the downfall of Tenochtitlan the Castilians 
 marched northward in search of other fields to conquer. At that period 
 the Franciscan influence was strong, and many of the churches erected 
 by the austere friars of that order had to serve as fortresses against the 
 attacks of the harassed and infuriated Indians. They are still strong re- 
 minders of one of the most romantic periods in the history of North 
 America. 
 
122 
 
 AGUASCALIEXTES TO MEXICO CITY 
 
 760 M. A pasco. A number of lime-kilns and quarries flank 
 the station on the r. The rly. winds to and fro as if seeking 
 an entrance to the Valley of Mexico just beyond. The hills 
 which seem to bar the way on every side are rounded by means 
 of sweeping curves. Beyond 767 M. San Sebastian (town with 
 a tall ch. to the 1.) we cross a small ridge and descend to the 
 valley level at 
 
 773 M. Huehuetoca, celebrated as the starting-point of the 
 great Tajo de Nochistongo (see p. 135), excavated in early times 
 in an effort to drain the Mexican Valley. The village is non- 
 descript, with several churches, on the r. The fairly level coun- 
 try, dotted with maguey ales and milpas (cornfields), forms 
 the outer barrier to the Valley of Mexico. On clear days the 
 majestic Popocatepetl (p.463) and Iztaccihuatl (p.464) are seen 
 rising in snow-crowned grandeur against the S. sky-line. Mount 
 Ajusco, the giant which hems in the valley at the S.-W., is 
 seen far to the right. 
 
 780 M. Teoloyucan , a town of brick-kilns. The old ch. 
 which crowns the summit of a hill at the r. dates from the 
 17th cent. The high mountains at the far r. form a part of 
 the Toluca Range and separate the Valley of Toluca (p. 199) 
 from that of Mexico. 784 M. Cuauhtitlan , described at p. 137. 
 — 789 M. Lecher ia. The hills close in and the grade is heavy to 
 the cut (1.148 ft. long) which leads to the Barrientos Tunnel — 
 735 ft. long and the only double-track rly. tunnel in the Repub. 
 We emerge from the tunnel into the Valley of Mexico (p. 244). 
 794 M. Tlalnepantla. 797 M. Azcapotzalco (p.419), both one- 
 time Indian strongholds. 
 
 798 M. Empalme de Tacuba, a rly. junction and a tawdry out- 
 post of Mex. City. Tacubaya soon comes into view on the far 
 r. We pass a number of adobe huts and then get a command- 
 ing view of the splendid hill-top Castle of Chapultepec, described 
 at p. 386. — 801 M. Santa Julia. We pass the Calzada de la 
 Veronica (which leads from Chapultepec Park to San Cosme), 
 flank the recreation grounds of the Spanish Colony of Mex. 
 City, leave the fine Paseo de la Reforma (see p. 372) on the r. 
 and enter the Estacion de Colonia. 803 M. Mexico City, p. 232. 
 
 31. From ( Ciudad Juarez , Chihuahua , Torreon , 
 Zacatecas) Aguascalientes via Leon, Silao, Ira- 
 puato, Celaya and Queretaro to Mexico City. 
 
 Aguascalientes, seep. 45. The train runs southward across a 
 level country which, though dusty in appearance, is highly cul- 
 tivated and productive. Fine view in retrospect of Aguascali- 
 entes city on the r. 868 M. Arellano. The land slopes downward. 
 
 874 M. Pehuelos. We enter a rocky region of many curves 
 and rly. cuts. We cross the state line and enter Jalisco. At 
 
AGU ASC ALIENTES TO MEXICO CITY 
 
 123 
 
 882 M. El Tigre (the tiger) we descend into an arid valley, 
 then cross a long viaduct (one of the highest on the line) 
 spanning a deep gulch and a presa of dirty-looking water. 
 Far to the r. on the slope of a barren hill is the town of 
 
 891 M. Encarnacion. The rly. station is a mile or more 
 from the poor and desolate-appearing town. Beyond this 
 are deep, rock-strewn valleys — the home of cacti and other 
 hardy desert plants. A small tranvia with cars scarcely larger 
 than a Saratoga trunk connects the station with the town. 
 Fare 12 c. 
 
 901 M. Santa Maria , a nondescript station, point of depart- 
 ure for the inland town of San Juan de los Lagos, 30 kilom. 
 distant. 
 
 San Juan de los Lagos (St. John of the Lakes) lies in a south-westerly 
 direction and is reached by a diligencia (time 4 hrs., fare $1 .50) which leaves 
 Santa Maria daily. There are several small mesones (comp. p. li) at 
 San Juan (pop. 10,000) where the traveller may find a lodging even if he 
 does not find good food. The annual fair, for which the place is celebrated, 
 is held in November, and at that time some 60,000 or 70,000 pilgrims 
 and merchants assemble to barter and do honor to an alleged miraculous 
 image of Nuestra Sehora de San Juan de los Lagos , which may be seen in 
 the Parochial Church , facing the main plaza. The fiesta bears the same 
 relation to the San Juan region that that of Our Lady of Guadalupe 
 does to the Valley of Mexico. A minor fiesta, in honor of a C andelaria, 
 is held in February. Travellers who contemplate a visit to San Juan 
 during these months must arrange for lodgings in advance or carry a 
 camping outfit. 
 
 The country to the S. of Santa Maria is broken into immense 
 valleys, which lie among high, barren hills. The line sweeps 
 round the cerros in great curves, affording fine views of the 
 lowlands stretching away between the hills. 907 M. Castro, 
 916 M. Las Salas. 
 
 922 M. Mira (look), on the southern slope of a cacti-dotted 
 hill. The land falls sharply away (to the 1.) to a great valley 
 miles distant. As we round the last of the long curves we see 
 the tops of the distant church towers of Lagos shining brightly 
 in the sun. 
 
 929 M. Lagos (6,000 ft.), a poor and non-progressive town 
 (pop. 15,000) in a fertile region in the State of Jalisco , has 
 declined greatly since the old stage-coach days prior to the 
 advent of the railway. It was once a very important place, 
 but the microbe of laziness seems to have permanently affected 
 its people. It was founded in 1540 (and is in consequence one 
 of the oldest towns in the Repub.) under the name of Santa 
 Maria de los Lagos. The station stands amid tall cottonwood 
 trees and is linked to the town by a tranvia , whose cars meet 
 all trains (fare 6 c.). There is no hotel in the place, but a small 
 meson (comp. p. li), which changes ownership frequently, 
 may provide the traveller with lodgings. Consult the station 
 agent. Luggage, by cargador (comp, lii) to the town, 25-50 c. 
 Contented in their seclusion from the outer world of progress, 
 
124 Route 31. 
 
 LEON 
 
 the Lagos people have long been the butt of ridicule for Mexi- 
 can satirists; the newspapers launch squibs and lampoons 
 against them and attribute to them a certain ingenuousness 
 and density of intellect. Many ridiculous stories are current 
 regarding the slow-working wits of the city fathers. On the 
 stage the part of the slow-witted and good-humored simple- 
 ton is usually assigned to the Lagos man. The town contains 
 nothing to interest travellers. The Parochial Church bears 
 a likeness to the Chihuahua Cathedral. The pictures, by local 
 painters, are mediocre. 
 
 Beyond Lagos the train descends past 937 M. Pedrito (where 
 we enter the State of Guanajuato), 956 M. Francisco , to the fine 
 Leon Valley, and to 966 M. Leon, see below. 
 
 Leon. 
 
 Arrival. The town lies about 2 M. to the E. (left) of the railway station 
 and is connected therewith by a tram-line; fare 6 c. The tramway com- 
 pany (ccmpania de tranvias) also delivers luggage to the hotels for 15-25 c. 
 a package according to size. Passengers can avoid delay at the station 
 by delivering baggage-checks to the hotel manager. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). Hotel Velasco, Calle de Juarez, Nos. 7 and 8; 
 Hotel Guerra, Portal Hidalgo, No. 13; Hotel Mexico , Calle del Oratorio 
 Poniente, No. 7 ; Hotel Hidalgo , Calle de Juarez, Nos. 13 and 15. All SI. 50 
 to S3 a day, Am. PI. Tram-cars pass near to them. 
 
 The names and locations of the Leon hotels are likely to change at any 
 time. 
 
 Banks, where travellers’ checks and Letters of Credit may be cashed: 
 Banco Nacional de Mexico, etc. 
 
 Cabs. Stands at the corner of the plaza and at various places in the 
 town. Per hour, 50 c. ; double after 10 p. m. 
 
 Leon (5,683 ft.), 259 M. north of Mexico City, in the Partido 
 de Leon, State of Guanajuato, with a population of 59,000, 
 was the birthplace of Ignacio Aldama (a co-patriot of Hidalgo), 
 in whose honor the town is called Leon de los Aldamas. 
 
 The name Leon is a corruption of Legio — the 7th Legio gemina — 
 which was quartered in Legio (Spain) by Augustus, in order to defend 
 the plains from the forays of the Asturian highlanders. The Spanish 
 town of Legio was taken by Leovigildo , in 586, who changed the name to 
 Leon. The Mexican town was founded soon after the Conquest, by Pedro 
 de Chirinos, and it was named in honor of the Spanish Province of Leon. 
 
 Leon lies in the centre of an extensive and amazingly fertile 
 valley noted for its mild and agreeable climate. The chief in- I 
 dustries are the making of rebozos (mufflers for the face), sad- I 
 dies and a wide variety of leather goods; cutlery, iron-ware, 
 soap, woollen-goods and straw hats. Few tourists visit the town. 
 Its numerous pretty 'plazas — in one of which is a fine artesian j 
 well ( pozo artesiano) — are embowered in flowers and shade 
 trees. The Plaza de la Constitucion, known also as the P. de j 
 A rmas and P. Mayor, occupies the centre of the city and around i 
 this is clustered the commercial fife. The fine old portales which | 
 flank it recall those of Oaxaca and Yucatan. La Calzada and 
 the P argue Manuel Gonzalez (named for a former President 
 
Cathedral. 
 
 LEON 
 
 81. Route. 125 
 
 of the Repub.) are the favorite resorts. The Hidalgo Market 
 is a busy and interesting spot. An unusual assortment of 
 articles of native manufacture is to be found in this mercado. 
 Bargaining necessary. When the traveller wishes to buy an 
 article of considerable value, he will do well to ask the price, 
 compare notes with some friend or with the hotel manager, 
 and be sure that he is getting fair treatment. The saddles 
 and leather goods are attractive; the prices of the former 
 vary widely, and are based, as a rule, on the amount of silver 
 trimmings (generally of sterling quality) which usually adorn 
 them. Common straw hats cost from 20 c. to $1. Hats with 
 silver braid and ornaments may cost anywhere from five 
 to a hundred pesos. If the traveller knows how to bargain 
 j [regatear ) he may perhaps buy a good saddle or a hat cheaper 
 in Leon than in Mexico City. 
 
 The Palacio Municipal, with its striking and richly carved 
 fagade, is one of the finest edifices in the city. 
 
 The Cathedral (erected by the Jesuits of the Compahia 
 Nueva), begun in 1746, completed in 1765 and dedicated to 
 Nuestra Seiiora de la Luz (Our Lady of Light), occupies the 
 site of a primitive ch. demolished in 1744. As Leon was not 
 made a See ( sede ) until 1863 the Cathedral was not consecrated 
 as such until 1866. The ch. possesses a fine dome and two 
 tall towers (completed in 1878) visible from all parts of the 
 city. The proportions of the nave are bold but awkward ; the 
 interior measures 220 X 45 ft., with the result that the aisle- 
 less nave is too long for its width. The decorations and pic- 
 tures (uninteresting) are by local painters. To the faithful 
 the chief object of interest and veneration is the painting of 
 Nuestra Seiiora de la Luz presented to the ch. by the Jesuit 
 Father Jose Maria Genovesi in 1740. The ch. adherents accept 
 it as genuine because of the certificate (signed by four Jesuit 
 Fathers) pasted on the back. The image was installed as the 
 official patroness of Leon on May 23, 1840, amid appropriate 
 and solemn ceremonies; the act was approved by the Pope 
 at Rome, Dec. 20, 1851. 
 
 Churches of minor note are those of Nuestra Sehora de los 
 Angeles (Our Lady of the Angels), a Jesuit foundation with 
 some interesting carvings by a native craftsman, Sixto Munoz; 
 of San Juan de Dios , San Felipe Neri and La Soledad. 
 
 The newest of the city churches, El Corazon Inmaculado 
 de Maria (the Immaculate Heart of Mary) in the Calle de 
 los Angeles , was completed and solemnly inaugurated Aug. 
 15, 1906. The interior, with a noteworthy Altar Mayor of 
 white Italian marble, is finely decorated. 
 
 Leon is celebrated throughout Mexico because of a great 
 flood which threatened its existence on the night of June 
 18, 1888. A cloudburst caused the Rio Gomez to overflow its 
 banks, and in the twinkling of an eye a huge wall of water 
 
126 Route 31. SILAO — IRAPUATO 
 
 and debris rushed over the city, sweeping away 2,230 houses, 
 drowning 200 persons and rendering 20,000 homeless. The 
 fine bridges, known as El Puente del Coecillo, and the huge 
 dyke of heavy masonry (nearly a mile long and 10 ft. thick) 
 were erected to prevent a repetition of the disaster. 
 
 The fine valley-land which stretches southward from Leon 
 is highly cultivated and of a deep soil which produces abund- 
 antly. Many of the rich products of the state (p. 145) are 
 grown here. 975 M. Trinidad. 981 M. Napoles. 
 
 987 M. Silao (6,000 ft.) ; railway restaurant, meals SI. 
 Junction of the branch line to Guanajuato (Rte. 32, p. 137). 
 Trains leave at frequent intervals from the same station. 
 The town (pop. 16,000, Gran Hotel Central , — Hotel 
 Victoria; $2.50 to $3, Am. PI.) stands at the base of the 
 Cerro del Cubilete , on the edge of a rich farming region. 
 Among the churches (uninteresting) are La Parroquia, 1 ercer 
 Orden , Santuario de Jesus Nazareno, San Nicolas, etc. The 
 Plaza \ Principal is an attractive spot, and the Mercado, in 
 the Tuscan style, is animated. About 10 kiloms. from Silao 
 are some hot springs called Aguas Ter males de Comanjilla , 
 celebrated locally for their curative properties. 
 
 We continue our journey southward from Silao through a 
 fine valley to 995 M. Villalobos, a nondescript hamlet in the 
 midst of a well-watered and productive .country. The land 
 roundabout is unusually level. 998 M. Vieyra. 
 
 1,005 M. Irapuato (5,800 ft.). Junction of the Branch Line 
 to Guadalajara (Rte. 33, p. 148) and the Pacific Coast. 
 Passengers for the Lake Chapala Region (p. 151), Tuxpan 
 (p. 183), Zamora (p. 149), Colima (p. 185), Manzanillo 
 (p. 188), and Pacific Coast points change here. Trains leave 
 from the same station. 
 
 Tram-cars convey passengers to the town (£ M. to the r. of the station) 
 and pass near the chief hotels. Fare 5 c. No omnibuses. Baggage 25-50 c. 
 according to size. By giving checks to the hotel manager a better rate 
 can be secured, as the tranvia company hauls heavy parcels to the town 
 on a flat car. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). Hotel Vargas, near the plaza. $1.50 to 82 
 Am. PI. according to location of room. Rooms only, 50c. -SI. — Hotel 
 Guerrero, on the road to the town, Si. 25 to S2 Am. PI. Rooms only, 
 50 c.-Sl. 
 
 Irapuato, chief town of the district and municipality of 
 the same name ( State of Guanajuato ), with a pop. of 20,000; 
 an old and somewhat unprogressive place, possesses a fine 
 and equable climate. The rich soil of the environing country 
 is favorable to the growth of strawberries ( fresas ) which are 
 on sale throughout the year. A score or more of venders 
 frequent the rly. station and offer the berries in small baskets. 
 The best berries are always carefully arranged on the top: 
 the lower layers are apt to be small, if not decayed. Prices 
 range from 25 c. to $1.50 according to the size of the baskets. 
 Bargaining necessary. 
 
SALAMANCA 
 
 31. Route. 127 
 
 Celaya. 
 
 The Church of San Francisco contains a painting of the 
 Virgin of Guadalupe, by Miguel Cabrera (see p. cli) ; a Virgin 
 of the Apocalypse, by Eduardo de Tresguerras (see p. cliii) and 
 some minor pictures of no great merit. The Templo de 
 Guadalupe is perhaps the most attractive of the remaining 
 churches. The fine gardens in the environs serve to rescue the 
 town from the commonplace. 
 
 From Irapuato the line trends toward the south-east and fol- 
 lows a gentle upward gradient. The region roundabout is 
 ranked among the most productive, in an agricultural sense, 
 in the Republic. In places, the soil is several yards deep, of a 
 rich black, like the alluvial deposits of the Nile. Several small 
 streams meander across the country, and they are tapped 
 here and there by small weirs and the waters are led away to 
 irrigate the soil. Cultivation of the land is rewarded by boun- 
 teous crops that follow each other as fast as planted. Some 
 of the smaller patches of tilled land are enclosed by walls of 
 loose cobbles. 1,011 M. Chico. 
 
 1,018 M. Salamanca (5,646 ft.), chief town of the partido 
 and municipalidad of the same name (pop. 13,700), on the r. 
 bank of the Lerma River , on a wide plain subject to overflows 
 in the rainy season. At this time many pools ( charcos ) collect 
 in the hollows and irrigate and fertilize the deep, rich soil. 
 The chief industries — aside from agriculture — are the 
 manufacture of woollen goods (several mills), pottery and 
 gloves ( guantes ), which latter are offered for sale (bargaining 
 necessary) at the train by ambulating tradesmen. Hotel Jua- 
 rez , on the Tercera Calle de Benito Juarez, $2 Am. PI. Hotel 
 Colon , near the rly. station, $2 Am. PI. Hotel San Agustin , $2. 
 
 Salamanca derives its name from the old Spanish city (in the Province 
 of Leon, Spain) called after Elman , the Iberian God of War. It is dif- 
 ficult to understand how even the bombastic and grandiloquent Spanish 
 conquistadores could have named this characterless Mexican town after 
 the splendid old Iberian city of Salamanca, celebrated in song and story 
 as the ancient stronghold of the V ettones ; for Hannibal’s famous siege; 
 for the barbarity of its Punic conquerors and the desperate valor of its 
 fighting Amazons: such a nomenclature suggests bathos rather than 
 reason. 
 
 A short Railway Line, Ramal de Gonzalez al Jaral (operated 
 by the National Rlys. of Mexico), runs from Gonzalez Junc- 
 tion (Rte. 28. p. 107) through Salamanca to Jaral del Valle. 
 Total length 80 kilom. Consult the Guia Oficial. 
 
 1,027 M. Sarabia. 1,032 M. Guaje. 1,038 M. Crespo. 1,043 M. 
 Celaya, see below. For a continuation of the journey south- 
 ward see p. 131. 
 
 1,043 M. Celaya (State of Guanajuato), a rly. junction (pop. 
 25,565, alt. 5,763 ft.), is a handsome, flourishing city on a beau- 
 tiful plain, in the fertile Bajio (the most extensive depressed 
 plain on the Central Table-land) 2 M. from the La/a River. It 
 is noted for its dulces (sweets), its fine trees and its pleasant 
 
128 Route 31. 
 
 CELAYA 
 
 Eduardo de 
 
 surroundings. The place was founded Oct. 12, 1570, by sixteen 
 Biscayan families who named the spot ZaLaya — in the Basque 
 tongue “ level land.’’ It was made a city by Philip IV, in a 
 royal order dated Oct. 20, 1655. It owes much of its present 
 very notable architectural appearance to the hand of its famous 
 son, Francisco Eduardo de Tresguerras (comp. p. cliii), who was 
 born here May 13, 1765, and who died here Aug. 3, 1833. 
 
 Arrival. The town lies a mile or more from the station. Tram-cars 
 (fare 6 c., double after nightfall) meet trains and run to the plaza. Cabs 
 25 c. Hotel Gomez , near the plaza , $2 to $3 Am. PL Rooms SI. There 
 are several minor hotels in the immediate neighborhood. Demand a mos- 
 quito net. If there are several pieces of luggage, deliver checks to the 
 hotel manager and ask him to have the trunks brought up on the tram-car. 
 
 “ The Main Plaza [says Mr. Baxter , comp. p. cxxviii] offers 
 an admirable example of a formal garden, planned with beau- 
 tiful simplicity. The column in the centre — an impressive 
 shaft dedicated d la perpetua memoria de la Independencia — 
 was designed by Tresguerras in commemoration of the achieve- 
 ment of Mexican Independence. A remark of the artist’s con- 
 cerning this work shows that city authorities were considered 
 a fair target even in those days. The eagle on the monument 
 has his head turned backward, and a friend asked the reason 
 for this peculiarity. ‘ So that he may not see the barbarities 
 committed by our municipal authorities,’ replied Tresguerras. 
 As the column stands in front of the Ayuntamiento , the City 
 Hall, the remark perhaps refers to the architecture of that 
 building, which has an arcade with strikingly ugly columns.” 
 A noisy artesian well which spouts a fine stream of water is a 
 feature of this plaza. The flow increases and diminishes at 
 certain seasons. Flanking the plaza is the nondescript Church 
 of El Tercer Orden , as well as that of La Cruz. The city mar- 
 ket is animated and attractive. 
 
 “ The Church of Nuestra Senora del Carmen, chief point 
 of interest in the city, is also one of the most famous edi- 
 fices in Mexico. A subject of architectural controversy at 
 the beginning, its repute quickly spread, and it has long been 
 celebrated as a masterwork of its kind. It is a large and most 
 impressive-looking structure, its nave being 220 ft. long by 
 55 ft. wide and 69 ft. high. The former Carmelite monastery 
 adjoining is of the date of the old ch. destroyed by fire. The 
 present structure was begun in 1803 and finished in 1807. 
 Its effect is one of exquisite grace in its simple beauty, and 
 this quality constantly grows upon the beholder. From all 
 points of view it is full of interest, its design having had mani- 
 fest regard to effect at the end of commanding vistas. The 
 view from the market-place makes a fine architectural com- 
 position, the foreground occupied by the semicircular peri- 
 style designed by the architect. Of all the beautiful domes 
 in Mexico, one of the most beautiful is that of Carmen , in 
 
Tresguerras . CELAYA 31. Route. 129 
 
 which Tresguerras has achieved the exquisite lines of one of 
 the finest of Persian types. Its decoration of glazed tiles, in 
 alternating yellow and green, gives an effect of luminous 
 greenish gold. The majestic interior has a strikingly lucid air. 
 It imparts a rare sense of artistic unity ; practically everything 
 is the work of the master that planned the fabric — sculpture 
 and mural paintings included ; all bespeak the devoted atten- 
 tion of one whose heart and soul were in the work. Some of 
 the paintings are beautiful examples of the artist’s quality 
 in that field. In the altar of San Elias , Tresguerras shines, 
 both as sculptor and painter, with a vigorous statue of the 
 Saint and a large decorative painting that embodies a deli- 
 cately poetic conception of the favorite Catholic legend of 
 the vision of Elias — the Virgin appearing above the sea, 
 which shimmers with tender light. 
 
 “ In the Capilla del Juicio, the Chapel of the Last Judg- 
 ment — known also as the Capilla de la Cofradia , the Confra- 
 ternity — there is a large painting at the high altar repre- 
 senting Our Lady of Carmen, in which Tresguerras has de- 
 picted the souls in Purgatory looking to the Virgin for relief. 
 The decorations of this chapel are nearly all of sepulchral 
 significance. Most notable are the three important frescoes 
 on the walls, — the chief examples of the work of Tresguerras 
 in that branch of painting. The largest of these, The Last 
 Judgment , has an extremely sketchy, off-hand character. The 
 conception is forceful, with an element of humor underlying 
 the dramatic realism. This finds grim manifestation in the 
 artist’s representation of himself as a central figure in the last 
 awakening — emerging from a yawning tomb in the middle 
 foreground between the hosts of the elect on one side and of 
 the condemned on the other, and peering out with an expres- 
 sion of anxiety and uncertainty on his countenance, as if 
 doubtful as to which party he might be assigned. The other 
 two frescoes represent the Entombment of Tobias and the Re- 
 surrection of Lazarus. These are evidently of later date, show- 
 ing a greater facility in handling the medium, though still 
 somewhat harsh in tone. But they are imbued with natural 
 feeling and delicacy of sentiment. 
 
 “ This chapel contains a memorial to Tresguerras in the 
 shape of two medallion portraits in fresco that flank the main 
 entrance, one representing him at the age of 35 years and the 
 other at 63 — the latter when he had just finished the church. 
 
 “ The great Parochial Church of San Francisco is of 
 cathedral-like dimensions. Though highly picturesque in ef- 
 fect, with its group of adjacent chapels, some of these incon- 
 gruous features are very bad in themselves. The facade and 
 the dome are of comparatively recent date, and the latter is a 
 melancholy example of an attempt to do something in the 
 manner of Tresguerras at Carmen. The ch. was founded in 
 
130 Route 31. 
 
 CELAYA 
 
 Eduardo de 
 
 1570 and the present edifice dates from 1715. The interior has 
 altars designed by T resguerras, whose tomb is in a little mor- 
 tuary chapel built against the side of the ch. This chapel 
 was designed and erected by the artist himself.” It is dedicated 
 to Nuestra Senora de Dolores — Our Lady of Sorrows, of 
 whom Swinburne says: 
 
 “ Cold eyelids that hide like a jewel 
 
 Hard eyes that grow soft for an hour; 
 
 The heavy white limbs, and the cruel 
 Red mouth like a venomous flower; 
 
 When these are gone by with their glories, 
 
 What shall rest of thee then, what remain, 
 
 O mystic and sombre Dolores, 
 
 Our Lady of Pain? ” 
 
 Inscribed on oval tablets on either side of the entrance are 
 the following stanzas by T resguerras addressed to the passer- 
 by in the name of the Sorrowing Mother: 
 
 (Translation) 
 
 “O vosotros que pasais 
 Si os angustia el corazon, 
 
 La pen a b la sin razbn 
 No sin fruta os confundais: 
 
 Mas si tercos ponderais, 
 
 De insufrible su vigor, 
 
 Es vano tanto clamor, 
 
 Pesadlas una por otra, 
 
 Y entre tantas ved si alguna, 
 
 Se iguala con mi dolor. 
 
 “ Mi Jesus que es el hermoso, 
 
 Y en millares escojido. 
 
 Clavado muere y herido 
 En un suplicio afrentoso, 
 
 Luego un lugar tenebroso 
 Me lo oculta en marmol frio, 
 
 Este si es dolor impio, 
 
 Que aun niega el llanto a mis 
 ojos, 
 
 Porque solo vean despojos 
 De un inculpable hijo mio.” 
 
 “ The crypt is beneath the centre of the floor. The interior 
 is decorated with a frieze of the Twelve Apostles, painted by 
 Tresguerras, whose portrait, by himself, hangs at the left of the 
 entrance. It is inscribed ‘ Francisco Eduardo Tresguerras, 
 Gravador y Profesor de las Tres Bellas Artes, Natural de la 
 Ciudad de Celaya. Edad 35 anos. Retratado por el mismo, 
 1780.’” 
 
 "O ye that pass, 
 
 If your hearts are wrung 
 
 By pain or wrong 
 
 Not unfruitful is your grief. 
 
 But should ye deem \ r our woes 
 Insufferable in their burden, 
 
 All clamor is in vain. 
 
 Weigh one against another 
 And see if of them all 
 There ’s one to compare with the sorrow 
 of mine. 
 
 “ My Jesus, the beautiful one, 
 
 The chosen from thousands of men 
 Nailed dying and wounded 
 In outraged supplication. 
 
 And soon a place of gloom 
 Hides him from me in marble cold. 
 Even this is impious sorrow 
 Forbidding to my eyes the very tears 
 Because they only see myself despoiled 
 Of my own blameless son.” 
 
 “The face is thin, the nose aquiline, the eyes are dark and thoughtful, 
 and the hair is brown. The expression has a penetrating look, not stern, 
 but poetically sensitive. Many pictures by the artist hang upon the 
 walls. One of the principal ones is a Christ, a type of beautiful young 
 manhood. Another represents the Virgin ‘according to the one painted 
 by St. Luke.’ The chapel is a sort of museum of mementoes of the artist. 
 
Tresguerras. 
 
 CELAYA 
 
 81. Route.. 131 
 
 Various poems by him, signed, hang in frames on the walls. There are 
 also numerous personal ornaments, choice bits of China, etc., in elabor- 
 ately carved gold frames. Connecting with the chapel is a small room 
 with a little shrine surmounted by a dainty crucifix carved by Tres- 
 guerras. The beauty of this Crucifixion dominates the expression of 
 anguish, and obscures the repugnant effect of physical suffering that 
 usually marks such work. In this shrine are preserved various relics of 
 the man, including humble articles of personal use, such as toilet imple- 
 ments, etc. These things are venerated by the common people as were 
 they relics of a saint.” 
 
 Tresguerras was an indefatigable worker, and many of the 
 churches in the surrounding towns owe a part of their fine in- 
 terior decorations to him. His best pictures, sometimes met 
 with in private collections, are held at prohibitive prices. 
 His memory is kept alive in many ways ; streets, houses, and 
 shops are named for him. Butchers even call their shops La 
 Carniceria de Tresguerras. 
 
 Other important works at Celaya are the great bridge 
 across the Rio Laja (Laja means a thin, flat stone), and the 
 tower of the Church of San Agustin. The latter antedates con- 
 siderably the erection of Carmen. 
 
 A sweetmeat, known throughout the Republic as Celaya 
 Dulce , is made here in large quantities. It is a mixture of sugar 
 and milk, with a taste of something like condensed milk, a 
 bit too sweet for the usual adult palate, of a light brown color, 
 packed in thin, wood boxes (called cajetas) of many sizes and 
 shapes. Vociferous natives of all ages surround the train on 
 its arrival, pass boxes of the dulce through the car windows, 
 drop them into the traveller’s lap, and urge the support of 
 the local industry. The boxes range in price from 10 cents 
 to several dollars, and bargaining is necessary. When freshly 
 made, the dulce is soft and pasty; it takes on a crust and be- 
 comes brittle and sugary with age. Cajetas de Celaya (boxes 
 of Celaya sweets) is the venders’ favorite call, and this cry is 
 heard in many parts of the Republic. 
 
 Celaya, see p. 127. The train ascends a gentle gradient 
 through a picturesque valley phenomenally productive. We 
 pass several unimportant towns and enter the State of Quere - 
 taro (p. 119), celebrated for its opal mines and fine fruits. 
 1,072 M. Queretaro, see p. 109. 
 
 Soon after leaving the Queretaro station, the train gradually 
 draws away from the fertile lowlands and approaches the final 
 stiff climb to the level of the Valley of Mexico. The region 
 roundabout is broken into hills and valleys ; the grade slopes 
 upward and we traverse many farms sprinkled all over with 
 various species of cacti (comp. p. lxxxi). 
 
 1,075 M. Hercules (referred to at p. 118). The town stands 
 at the edge of a great depression of the Central Plateau, reach- 
 ing from Zacatecas at the N. to Polotitlan at the S. From this 
 point the train climbs steadily until it reaches an elevation 
 (near Polotitlan) of 8,000 ft., whence it descends gradually to 
 
132 Route 31. SAN JUAN DEL RIO 
 
 T ula, to then climb upward again until it reaches the Valley of 
 Mexico (7,349 ft.). 1,0S2 M. La Griega. 1,090 M. Ahorcado. 
 1,097 M. Chintepec. 1,101 M. Santa Elena. 
 
 1,106 M. San Juan del Rio (St. John of the River), 6,245 
 ft., with a pop. of 10,000. Railway restaurant ; meals SI. The 
 San Juan River runs through the suburbs of the town, which 
 lies in a narrow, picturesque valley in a highly productive 
 region. The largest of the several (uninteresting) churches is 
 that of El Sagrado Corazon de Jesus. Next in importance is 
 La Parroquia , which faces the Plaza Principal and dates from 
 (1531) the founding of the town. The busiest street is the Calle 
 Real. The rly. station is usually thronged with venders of milk, 
 eatables of many kinds, baskets, opals (usually opal-agates 
 and not worth much, comp. p. 110) and excellent lariats ( riaias ) 
 made of cactus and fibre. The best are worth about 50 c.; 
 which the dealer will accept when he finds that he cannot get 
 SI. 50. The stiffness can be taken out of the coiled lariats with 
 oil. Tranvia to the town (at the r.), 6 c. 
 
 The train describes many curves and affords splendid retro- 
 spective views as it climbs to the higher levels. The fine pro- 
 spect is only limited by the mt. peaks which cut the sky-line. 
 The land is of limestone formation, with evidences of violent 
 volcanic action. The arroyos are choked with volcanic and 
 diluvial detritus; the distant valleys hold quiet lakes in their 
 green bosoms. 1,114 M. Peon. 
 
 1,117 M. Palmillas. Ruined Spanish bridges, crumbling 
 houses and ancient aqueducts bear witness to the early Spanish 
 occupation. This region lay within the sphere of Anahuac 
 influence and both the Spaniards and Aztecs who ruled 
 Tenochtitldn (Mex. City) considered it an outpost. Peons 
 (laborers) may be seen setting out young maguey shoots in 
 ground softened by occasional rains or heavy dews. Albeit 
 the Agave Americana does not thrive here as on the Plains of 
 Apam the land produces the intoxicating pulque (p. lxxxii) in 
 quantities sufficient to make its exploitation fairly profitable. 
 Many of the native shacks by the roadside are provided with 
 tin roofs held down by heavy stones — a protection against 
 the strong winds which howl almost continually across these 
 uplands. We pass from the State of Queretaro into the State 
 of Hidalgo. The railway continues to ascend through the well- 
 cultivated hills, affording many fine vistas. 
 
 1,124 M. Cazadero (hunter), so named for a great hunt 
 given (in 1540) to the Spanish Viceroy Don Antonio de Men- 
 doza , in which 15,000 Aztecs took part. Hard by is a large 
 hacienda of the same name. The rly. traverses a fertile region 
 producing fine harvests of Indian corn; the fields are called 
 milpas in the Indian tongue. The land hereabout was per- 
 haps cultivated for countless ages before Columbus was born. 
 
 Though times have changed, the methods of the farmers 
 
M aize. 
 
 INDIAN CORN 
 
 31. Route. 133 
 
 have not, and they still use the single-pronged stick, with 
 which their Aztec progenitors ploughed the soil. The green 
 sprigs of maize in the adjacent fields are perhaps the direct 
 descendants of the plants which grew here in bygone centuries. 
 The swift runners who once carried the harvest to the Aztec 
 metropolis are now replaced by the train which races across 
 the ancient milpas. 
 
 On the discovery of America, says Humboldt, the zea maiz ( tlaolli in 
 the Aztec, mahiz in the Haytian) was cultivated from the most southern 
 part of Chili to Pennsylvania. Columbus, in his first voyage, in 1492, 
 discovered corn in use by the Indians of Cuba, and afterwards by those 
 of Haiti. Among the trophies of the New World that this great navigator 
 laid at the feet of his sovereigns, on returning from this remarkable 
 voyage to the unknown country, were a few ears of maize, or “ Indian 
 corn,” ‘‘the great tasselled chieftain of the West.” Neglected were they 
 amongst the mass of rich plunder — gold, gems, and strange copper- 
 skinned captives — that greeted the eyes of Ferdinand and Isabela; 
 but the golden ears were of far more value to the world than all the 
 treasures that subsequently flowed into their coffers from New Spain. 
 The spread of the wonderful grain was rapid, and that which bad hitherto 
 constituted the chief food of the American Indians was soon all over 
 Europe, Asia, and Africa, A thousand years before America acquired a 
 name, the Indians of Mexico cultivated this precious cereal. At the pres- 
 ent day, even, it is almost their sole support. It was the great staple of 
 Montezuma’s Court, and Cortes found it there when he came to Mexico. 
 The home of the maize is undoubtedly the Mexican plateau; there it 
 finds the necessary union of hot “ growing” days with cool, moist nights. 
 There are few parts, either of the tierra caliente or of the table-land, in 
 which maize is not cultivated with success. In the low, hot grounds upon 
 the coast, and on the slope of the cordillera, its growth is more prolific 
 than on the table-land, where its fecundity is such as will hardly be cred- 
 ited in Europe. In the Indian hill-towns of Southern Mexico, some of 
 the villages are almost entirely hidden in vast fields, where the great 
 stalks, with their waving tassels, like the feathered crests of warriors of 
 old, reach the height of fifteen feet. The ears of corn are called (Spanish) 
 elotes, from the Aztec elotl. Parched corn was, in the Aztec tongue, 
 mumhuehitl. 
 
 1,130 M. Polotitlan, in the State of Mexico. 1,139 M. Danu y 
 in the State of Hidalgo. 1,144 M. Nopala. 1,147 M. Mara - 
 villas. 1,149 M. Marquez. The train sweeps round many 
 a curve and winds in and out among the hills as if seeking an 
 entrance to the Valley of Mexico. We soon reach the highest 
 point (8,237 ft.) and we reenter the State of Mexico. — 1,151 
 M. Lena. The line skirts the edge of a high ridge whence (to 
 the 1.) stretches a splendid valley hemmed in by distant mts. 
 Fine views. At the base of a hill near the station is a quaint 
 old mission church in a jejune yard deserted by all except a 
 solitary weeping willow. Near by is a white- walled hacienda 
 whose red-tile roof and ruinous out-buildings recall some de- 
 serted corner of Tuscany. The train again crosses the line 
 marking the State of Hidalgo. 1,157 M. Prieto , in the State of 
 Mexico. 1,162 M. Landa. 
 
 1,166 M. San Antonio. A few hundred yards to the left 
 of the station is an haci,enda of the olden time; the contigu- 
 ous capilla and the fortress-like walls with loop-holed turrets 
 
134 Route 31. 
 
 TULA 
 
 for guards are mute reminders of the days when a church 
 might be used for worship in the morning and as a fortress 
 before dark. Beyond San Antonio a vast, deep valley 
 stretches away to the left, and the delighted eye ranges over 
 miles of lowlands dotted with haciendas . with range after 
 range of hills and a myriad tall cacti, of infinite variety, aflame 
 with red and yellow blossoms. Scrub trees clothe the distant 
 hillsides; the castle-like buildings resemble feudal retreats 
 in the midst of green gardens. The loose stones are here and 
 there piled up into walls to enclose small patches of tilled 
 land. The wide valleys are literally choked with organ or 
 candelabra cacti, with spikev maguey, thorny-padded nopals 
 and a small, slender species of cactus much used by the Indians 
 in making perforated walking-sticks. Many Indian peddlers 
 trot along the narrow foot-paths toward Tula. The grade 
 slopes sharply; the train descends rapidly, whipping across 
 bridges and around sharp curves. Many of the haciendas 
 through which we pass breed fighting bulls for the Mexico 
 City Bull-Ring (p. 371), and for corridas in other cities. We 
 soon reach the historic town of Tula (see below), a one-time 
 Indian stronghold and one of the oldest settlements in Mexico. 
 
 1,175 M. Tula ( ToUan — place of the reeds), 50 miles from 
 Mexico City, 6,766 ft. above sea-level, with 2,000 inhabitants 
 (railway restaurant), was once the metropolis of the mysterious 
 Toltecs (p. clxiii), who settled here about the year 648 of the 
 Christian Era and prospered until the beginning of the eleventh 
 century. According to an authority the downfall of the race 
 (which silently disappeared from the region no one knows 
 whither) dated from the discovery (by Xochitl, the daughter 
 of the noble Papantzin, comp. p. lxxxv) of pulque, the blajico 
 neutli of the later-day Aztecs. The Chichimecs (p. clxiv) took 
 possession of the deserted city of Tula in 1170 and were 
 ousted therefrom by the Aztecs in 1196. The hills about the 
 town are honeycombed with the graves of the ancient people 
 who once lived and worked here. The modern Tula is built al- 
 most entirely of stones taken from the old Indian temples. 
 Broken idols and sculptures of colossal proportions lie scat- 
 tered about the town and some of them bear a striking resem- 
 blance to the ruins of Chichen-Itza, described at p. 581. 
 
 In the Plaza Mayor are some interesting monoliths re- 
 covered from the primitive Toltec city. Noteworthy pieces 
 are a gigantic column and the lower half of an immense figure 
 of a man ; the pieces show that they were kept together in the 
 original structure by being mortised. Adorning the lintel of 
 the main entrance to the one-time cathedral are a “ zodiac ” 
 and a petroglyph of unknown antiquity. Certain of the stones 
 and designs which ornament the fine statue of the Aztec 
 Prince Cuauhtemotzin (described at p. 376) were taken hence. 
 
 During the Aztec sovereignty Tula was an important out- 
 
Nochistongo. 
 
 TULA 
 
 31. Route. 135 
 
 post of Tenochtitlan. The Spaniards found it of considerable 
 strategic importance, and here they erected their “ most holy 
 and noble cathedral/ ’ which still stands to defy the ravages 
 of time and which, according to a half-obliterated inscription 
 on the wall, was completed in 1553. Its groined ceiling and 
 massive walls are eloquent reminders of the extreme solidity 
 and earthquake-defying qualities of the early Spanish ( the 
 Early Franciscan Style , p. cxxix) edifices. The structure is 
 of light-colored stone and its thick walls — which are en- 
 closed in an outer wall of great strength — served more than 
 once as a fortress to the beleaguered Iberians. The church is 
 192 ft. long, 41 ft. wide and 82 ft. high, and the top of the single 
 tower rises 125 ft. above the pavement. The chapels are mod- 
 ern. The paintings are chiefly noteworthy for their antiquity. 
 The archives contain some interesting MSS. in the Nahuatl 
 tongue. The baptismal font is a prehistoric Toltec relic. 
 
 An interesting spot in the environs of Tula is the Cerro 
 del Tesoro, or hill of the treasure, which overlooks the town 
 and is reached after a short walk along the shaded road lead- 
 ing to Ixmiquilpan. We cross the stone bridge (erected in 
 1772) and climb the hill to a ridge about a mile in length and 
 almost covered with Toltec ruins. The most prominent build- 
 ing is of uncut stone laid in mud and covered with a hard 
 cement; the floors are coated with the latter material. The 
 ruins of a great number of small rooms are still to be seen. 
 Albeit the Tula ruins do not possess the interest of those of 
 Mitla (p. 537) or Palenque (p. 567), they are worth the time 
 spent in visiting them. The traveller with a few hours to spare 
 can board an early morning train at the Buena Vista Station 
 (p. 232) at Mexico City, reach Tula in 2 hrs. (fare $2.40 1st ch), 
 and return by one of the several daily trains. A guide is neces- 
 sary only to economize time. Ask the station agent to appoint 
 one of the small lads who loiter about the trains; a fee of 50 c. 
 is ample for a half-day. 
 
 A branch rly. line leads hence to (71 K.) Pachuca (comp. p. 422). Two 
 trains daily in 2 hrs.; fare 1st cl. $2.13. Consult the Guia Ojicial. 
 
 From Tula the train climbs a stiffish grade to 1,186 M. 
 Dublan , and the puffing of the locomotora awakens the echoes 
 in the one-time pleasure-garden of the early Tzins. Pepper 
 and willow trees abound, and the land is well cultivated. 
 1,189 M. El Salto (7,206 ft.). We soon enter the famous Tajo 
 de Nochistongo (see below), also called the Cut of Huehue- 
 toca. The best views are from the right side of the train. 
 1,191 M. Nochistongo (7,500 ft.) in the State of Mexico. The 
 great trench deepens as we advance. 
 
 The celebrated Tajo de Nochistongo , a gigantic trench originally more 
 than 4 miles long, constructed with a view to drain the Valley of Mexico, 
 was begun Nov. 28, 1607, under the direction of the celebrated Portuguese 
 hydrographer Enrico Martinez (comp. p. 297). The original idea was to 
 
136 Route 31. TAJO DE NOCHISTONGO 
 
 cut a tunnel through the mountain at Nochistongo , thus allowing for the 
 free passage of the surplus water of the Valley lakes. From 12,000 to 
 15,000 Indians were forced to do the work, which was considered com- 
 plete eleven months after its inception. Thousands of the unhappy cap- 
 tives died from overwork and exposure. The first water was admitted 
 into the tunnel (which was then 21,650 ft. long, 10 ft. wide and 15 ft. 
 deep) Dec. 8, 1608, in the presence of the Viceroy, the Archbishop and a 
 multitude of Spaniards and Indians. The result of this great undertak- 
 ing, in which millions of pesos and thousands of lives had been wasted, 
 was disappointing, as only Lake Zumpango and a river which was diverted 
 into it were drained, leaving Lakes T excoco and Chaleo — the greatest 
 menaces to the city — unaffected. During the years which followed, 
 there was much bitter controversy between Martinez and the authorities: 
 it culminated with the exceptionally heavy rains of 1629. Foreseeing 
 the destruction of his work if the accumulated waters were permitted to 
 rush through the tunnel, Martinez ordered the entrance walled up. The 
 immediate effect was to inundate the City of Mexico; the principal 
 streets were 3 ft. under water, business was paralyzed, the poor suffered 
 great hardships; and, to add to the general panic, the region was shaken 
 by violent earthquakes. 
 
 The public rage vented itself on the unfortunate engineer, who was 
 imprisoned, but who was released upon promising to convert the tun- 
 nel into an open ditch. To prevent land-slips, the trench was deepened 
 and the necessary slope was given to the sides. The Indians .finally 
 balked at the inhuman cruelties ceaselessly practised upon them and 
 many deserted, but they were captured and imprisoned in a large build- 
 ing, the remains of which are to be seen still at the southern end of the 
 cut. As fast as the earth was removed other was washed down from the 
 sides. It was not until 1789, nearly two centuries after its inception, 
 that the ditch attained its present aspect. 
 
 It is from 30 to 100 ft. deep, and in some places 300 ft. broad. A good 
 idea of its height can be obtained by measuring, with the eye, the wall 
 opposite to the train — which traverses the cut about 60 ft. from the 
 bottom. We enter the tajo proper at kilom. 53 and emerge at kilom. 50. 
 Near the centre the line makes a slight curve and affords a comprehensive 
 view of the entire trench. The ruined bridge near the exit is a relic of the 
 old post-road (constructed in the 16th cent.) between the capital and 
 Zacatecas City. A bit of the original tunnel may be seen by descending 
 into the cut near the station of Nochistongo. The original plan of the 
 entire work is on exhibition in the National Museum at Mexico City. 
 
 1,196 M. Huehuetoca (7526 ft.). Near this station is the 
 fine farm ( Hacienda de Jalpa ) of Governor Landa y Escandon, 
 of the Federal District. The estate is one of the richest, most 
 extensive and best managed in the Republic. The splendid 
 old mansion is filled with antiques that are a sustained de- 
 light to antiquaries and collectors. 
 
 1,202 M. Teoloyucan (7,518 ft.). The brown basaltic hills 
 which delimn the Valley of Mexico on the W. and S. are now 
 in sight. Like a fagged steed within sight of home the train 
 rushes across well-cultivated farms and between rows of tall 
 elms that recall vistas in the Holy Land. Many cornfields 
 flank the line, and huge, patriarchal centurv-plants serve as 
 hedge-fences. We get fine views (on the 1.) of Popocatepetl 
 (p. 463) and Iztaccihuail (p. 464). 
 
 Teoloyucan is the point of departure for the ancient town (about 
 10 M. distant) of Tepozotlan. which contains the old Seminario de San 
 Martin (founded about 15S4) with one of the finest camarins in the 
 Repub. There are few more beautiful examples of Colonial ecclesiastical 
 architecture in Mexico than this splendid relic (an unappreciated gem), 
 
Silao. 
 
 GUANAJUATO 
 
 32. Route. 137 
 
 with its fine chapels, its exquisite Churrigueresque facade of clean cut 
 stone and its fine, heavily gilded Churrigueresque altar-pieces; so well 
 preserved that they look as if finished only yesterday. Most travellers 
 pass it by because of the difficulty in getting to it — the lack of convey- 
 ances, etc. — but a visit is worth the inconvenience. Among the many 
 paintings in the ch. are two good examples of the best work of J . Rodriguez 
 Juarez (comp. p. cl) and some excellent allegorical subjects by Miguel 
 Cabrera (p. cli). The pueblo in which the ch. stands is now but a simu- 
 lacrum of its former self. The region was a sort of buen retiro , or coun- 
 try resort of the early Jesuit Fathers, who lavished great sums on the 
 ch. and its decorations, and who retired here, at certain times, to en- 
 joy, in comparative solitude, the fine works of art which were once a 
 prominent feature of the edifice. 
 
 1,206 M. Cuauhtitlan (Aztec — place of the eagle), 7,506 ft., 
 a somnolent place celebrated locally for a derisive com- 
 parison current in the vernacular: “ Todo fuera de Mexico es 
 Cuauhtitlan ,” which, liberally translated, means that “ Mexico 
 City is the centre of everything.” It was once an Aztec town 
 of considerable importance. Juan Diego , to whom the Virgin 
 of Guadalupe (comp. p. 394) is said to have appeared on Dec. 
 9, 1531, was born here. 
 
 1,212 M. Lecheria (7,518 ft.). 1,217 M. Tlalnepantla (7,520 
 
 ft.), a poor town in the Valley of Mexico, on the edge of the 
 Federal District (p. 249) which we now enter. 
 
 The Parochial Church contains a, number of pre-Columbian relics 
 in the form of chiselled stones, monoliths and whatnot, of considerable 
 interest to archaeologists. An old cylindrical vase, in the bautisterio , and 
 a font ( Cuauhxicalli ) in the body of the ch. are particularly interesting. 
 The earthquake of March, 1908, opened a subterranean cavern beneath 
 the town and disclosed idols and relics which lead archaeologists to be- 
 lieve that the present town rests on the ruins of a Toltec city antedating 
 the discovery of America. 
 
 1,220 M. Hutchinson , with a factory for the making of car 
 materials. The train sweeps round a curve to the left and 
 backs into the Estacion de Buena Vista (7,466 ft.), more than 
 a mile higher than the Boston State House or Trinity Church 
 at New York. Cab-stand (p. 235) in the station yard, and tram- 
 cars (p. 236) pass by the gate. Several rly. refreshment rooms 
 directly across the street. 1,225 M. Mexico City, see p. 232. 
 
 32. From Silao to Guanajuato. 
 
 From Silao to Guanajuato (Ramal de Guanajuato) 22 K. Several 
 trains daily in about 1 hr. Consult the Guia Oficial. The only intermedi- 
 ate station of note is Marfil (ivory) at the base of the gorge leading up 
 to Guanajuato and for many years the terminus of the line. 
 
 Guanajuato. 
 
 The Railway Station faces the Calle de Tepetapa and is about 10 min. 
 by tram-car, or 15 min. on foot, from the principal hotels. The tranvia 
 which connects the station with the Jardin de la Union passes them. The 
 agents of the Robert McCormack Express Co. meet all trains; trunks to the 
 hotel 25 c.; cargadores (comp. p. lii) usually demand 50 c.. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii.) Wood's Hotel , Am. management and plan, 
 $3.50 to $7 (much frequented by Americans, and well spoken of); in 
 the Calle de Alonso. 
 
138 Route 32. 
 
 GUANAJUATO 
 
 La Presa. 
 
 Hotel de la Union facing the Plaza de la Union; S3. 50 to $7 Am. PI. 
 
 Gran Hotel Espanol , Calle Puente del Rastro (hard by the Plaza de la 
 Union) ; S2 to So. Gran Hotel Zozaya, Calle de Alonzo No. 3; $2 to $5. 
 
 Guanajuato (7000 ft.), capital of the State of the same 
 name, with 40,000 inhabitants, one of the richest, oldest, and 
 most picturesque towns in the Repub., is poised high above 
 the great plateau, in a narrow mountain gorge traversed by 
 the Guanajuato River. The principal entrance to the town 
 is through the Canon de MarfiL , a long, vertical rift in the 
 mountains beginning near the station of Marfil at the base. 
 Hard by is a lofty hill, La Bufa, crowned by bizarre rocks 
 which stand a thousand or more ft. above the plain. The ap- 
 proach to Guanajuato is very picturesque; the line twists and 
 turns through narrow, lateral gorges, but it climbs steadily 
 upward, past many mining-tunnels, ore-heaps and primitive 
 and modem reduction works. The ground beneath the ir- 
 regular city is honeycombed with tunnels and shafts which 
 tap immensely rich deposits of gold and silver ores. 
 
 The situation is wild and striking: the precipitous hills 
 roundabout are dotted with homes, churches, mining-shafts, 
 winches, ore-dumps, and the varied paraphernalia of deep 
 mines; the streets are narrow-, crooked and sloping, and cer- 
 tain of them are so precipitous that it has been necessary to 
 piece them out with stone steps, which recall certain of the 
 Italian and Sicilian towms. Some of the thoroughfares afford 
 no room for any sort of a vehicle, and indeed but scant elbow 
 room for pedestrians. The roofs of certain of the houses are on 
 a level with the ground floor of those contiguous. The doors 
 of many are reached by extraordinarily high stoops, cut out 
 of the rock, and the views' from some of them are inspiring. 
 
 The river w’hich formerly plunged down through the centre 
 of the town and bubbled and churned its w T av beneath arched 
 bridges, w T as a picturesque but dangerous stream — one w^hich 
 not infrequently placed the inhabitants in dire peril. In 1760 
 a tremendous flood in the mountains caused great loss of life 
 and property in the towm. On the night of June 7, 1885, the 
 river surged out of its banks and wrecked property to the 
 value of three millions of pesos. On July 1, 1905, a cloudburst 
 in the hills caused it again to overflow 7 , and 200 persons were 
 drowned ; the property loss w’as enormous. Usually these floods 
 in the city were due to the overflow^ of the huge reservoir (la 
 presa) at the base of the hills behind it. Since the last inun- 
 dation an immense tunnel, the Porfirio Diaz , has been cut 
 (at a cost of 8350,000) to divert the overflow and provide 
 against a recurrence of disasters. 
 
 La Presa is but one of a succession of huge reserv oirs, built, 
 one higher than the other, at the top of the city, to provide 
 potable water. As this drains in from the hillsides, it is 
 difficult to keep the supply unpolluted; travellers will there- 
 
Alhondiga. 
 
 GUANAJUATO 
 
 32. Route. 139 
 
 fore do well to drink only bottled or boiled water. The finest 
 of the reservoirs, La Presa de la Olla, is well worth inspection ; 
 the masonry work is excellent. The handsome Paseo de la 
 Presa , which is a favorite promenade and is flanked by attract- 
 ive houses, leads up to it. 
 
 The name Guanajuato is derived from Guanaxhuato , a 
 Tarascan Indian word signifying “Hill of the Frogs.” Mexican 
 historians agree that this appellation was given to the place 
 because of the great number of frogs which once made the 
 spot their habitat; and also because of an enormous stone 
 chiselled to represent a frog ( rana ), which was found there 
 by the ancient Chichimecs and long worshipped by them in 
 lieu of a more suitable divinity. The town was founded soon 
 after the Conquest , coincident! y with the subjugation of the 
 state (comp. p. 146) and the discovery of a wonderfully rich 
 mineral vein in what is now the La Luz district. It grew rap- 
 idly and was made a city in 1741. It was soon recognized as 
 one of the greatest silver-producing centres of the New World, 
 and mine after mine, some of them fabulously rich, were 
 opened and exploited for the Church and the Spanish Crown. 
 Some of these mines still produce. The celebrated Valen - 
 ciana (p. 144), the Mellado and the Rayas mines, on the highest 
 point of the mountain slopes N. of the city, alone kept the 
 Spanish exchequer filled for centuries. The beautiful and justly 
 famous Church of La V alenciana, described at p. 144, should be 
 visited for the sake of the church itself, the magnificent pano- 
 rama, and to gain an idea of what the output of these early 
 mines must have been. From the mts. which rise in rugged 
 grandeur around the city comes much of the fine colored 
 marble noted in the local architecture. The hills to the N.-E. 
 of the city are called the Sirena Mts. The hills fall away 
 toward the S.-W. and afford commanding vistas of the fertile 
 plains which stretch away toward Irapuato y Celaya and Quere - 
 taro. 
 
 The Alhondiga de Granaditas (once a species of grain 
 market or exchange, and now a prison), built by the order of 
 the Spanish Intendente Don Juan Antonio Riano and early 
 used by the Spaniards as a fortress, is one of the most histor- 
 ically interesting buildings in the city, as well as one of the 
 most famous landmarks in Mexico. A grisly reminiscence 
 attaches to this Alhondiga. It stands near the entrance to 
 the city at the foot of El Cerro del Cuarto (quarter mountain), 
 so called because prisoners were formerly drawn and quartered 
 here and the leg, or quarter, was nailed to a post for the con- 
 templation of evil-doers. The cerro dominates the edifice, 
 wdiich is a vast and impressive example of secular architect- 
 ure. An inscription in the N. wall (to the right of the en- 
 trance) says the building was begun Jan. 5, 1798, completed 
 June 16, 1808, and cost $207,089. In form it is a parallelogram 
 
140 Route 82. GUANAJUATO Alhondiga. 
 
 210 ft. on its longest side, two stories high with a line of quaint 
 Moorish windows along the upper story. The ground floor is 
 Tuscan, the upper Doric, with a stone balustrade between the 
 columns. The E. and N. entrances are adorned with Tuscan 
 columns and entablatures. A marble slab to the 1. of the 
 main entrance advises that “ The Army of Independence en- 
 tered Guanajuato and captured this edifice on Sept. 28, 1810.” 
 
 On that date it was the scene of a tremendous and bloody struggle 
 between the besieged Spanish royalists and the revolutionary Mexican 
 forces under the Cura Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla. Hidalgo's forces had 
 taken the city by storm, and the last defence of the Castilians was the 
 Alhondiga , which they defended with great bravery. The fortress-like 
 character of the structure, its massive walls and thick, heavy doors 
 made it almost impregnable against an assault with light arms. During 
 the struggle Hidalgo called for volunteers to brave the hail of missiles 
 that fell from the roof, and to set fire to the huge wooden door. 
 
 A sturdy young peon workman from the Mellado mine seized a wide, 
 flat flagstone, threw it across his back to serve as a shield, and then at- 
 tained his object under a terrific fire. (Within the building, behind an 
 iron railing, is a somewhat idealized statue to this heroic Indian martyr, 
 whose name w as Jose M. Barajas , alias Pipila.) 
 
 As the frenzied rev olu cion arios rushed into the building they met their 
 hated Spanish foes in the great patio , where a fierce hand-to-hand struggle 
 ensued. The royalists w r ere eventually driven to the roof, w r here they 
 were all killed. They contested every foot of the great stairway, fighting 
 as they w T ent, and leaving a trail of blood — blotches of which are still 
 pointed out on the stair by the custodiano. The Intendente Riano was one 
 of the first to lose his life w’heu the city was captured and sacked by the 
 enemy. 
 
 A few days after the capture of the Alhondiga , the infuriated 
 populace broke into the fortress and murdered 247 defenceless 
 Spanish soldiers imprisoned there. This act of barbarism so 
 inflamed the Spaniards that they united their scattered forces, 
 besieged the city, and after a brave and determined effort 
 captured it. Their leader, Calleja, ordered that every person 
 captured, regardless of age or sex, should be slain. This sinis- 
 ter order was carried out, and so many innocent persons were 
 slaughtered that the Padre Belaunzaren threw himself at 
 Calleja's feet and, holding up an image of Christ on the cross, 
 implored a cessation of such savagery. 
 
 When a few months later, the patriots Hidalgo , Aldama, 
 Allende and Jimenez were executed at Chihuahua (p. 27), 
 their heads were brought hither and hung in iron cages which 
 swung from hooks at the four angles of the structure. Here 
 they remained for nearly ten years para escarmiento de los 
 criminales que se sacrifican por la independencia de su patria 
 (as a warning to the criminals who sacrifice themselves for 
 the independence of their country). Four days after the pro- 
 mulgation of Independence, March 28, 1821, the heads were, 
 at the instance of Colonel Don Anastasio Bustamente , solemnly 
 buried in the pantheon of San Sebastian. There they remained 
 until Aug. 31, 1823, when they were removed to Mexico City 
 and placed in the crypt beneath the Altar de los Reyes in the 
 
GUANAJUATO 
 
 82. Roufe. 141 
 
 Cathedral (p. 280). Later they were removed to the chapel 
 of San Jose, in the same church, where they now rest in a 
 crystal urn smothered in flowers. 
 
 The huge hooks which held the iron cages in which the 
 heads were exposed remain at the four corners of the Alhondiga. 
 
 Perhaps the chief “sight” is the Pantedn (cemetery) on the 
 summit of the Cerro del Trozado (W. of the city). It recalls 
 the Campo Santo of Genoa and the Roman catacombs, in 
 the manner of disposing of the dead. The bodies of those who 
 can afford it are placed in the cemetery wall for a period of 
 five years, or in perpetuity. Unless the receptacles are rented 
 for all time the bodies are removed at the end of five years, 
 and the bones are thrown into a common ossuary. Certain 
 mummified bodies are placed in standing rows along the walls 
 of the vault, covered with a sheet from the chin to the ankles, 
 and exposed to the view of visitors. (Small fees customary, 
 but not necessary.) The sight is so gruesome that one scarcely 
 ever succeeds in effacing it from the mind. Ladies will not 
 enjoy it and persons with “ nerves” are recommended to de- 
 vote the time to more inspiring sights. 
 
 The Palacio Legislativo (the work of the architect Luis 
 Long and the , decorators Claudio Molina and Nicolas Gon- 
 zalez), completed in 1900 at a cost of $150,000, is of solid 
 masonry, three stories high and of commanding appearance. 
 Here the state assembly meets and here the tribunals of 
 justice grind out their decrees. In one of the salas are por- 
 traits of Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, President Porjirio Diaz, 
 Benito Juarez and the patriots Abasolo, Aldama, Cortazar and 
 Doblado. 
 
 El Teatro Juarez, erected on the site of the old San 
 Diego Convent, faces the Jardin de la Union and is the pride 
 of the city. The handsome green stone of which it is constructed 
 is found in the vicinity. The rich and costly interior decora- 
 tions are by Herrera; the foyer is very attractive. The 8 alle- 
 gorical figures in bronze which crown the edifice are the work 
 of W. H. Mullins, of Salem, Ohio, U. S. A. 
 
 The Jardin de la Union, the Plaza Mayor, and the Alameda 
 del Cantador are all popular and attractive promenades. 
 
 The State College ( Colegio del Estado) contains a fine 
 collection of mineral specimens from the mines in the vicinity. 
 Open all day, no fees. 
 
 The Guanajuato Club, or Casino, is open to visitors by 
 means of a visiting-card secured from a resident member. 
 
 The Guanajuato Tramways Co. run cars to La Presa, 
 La Pastita — where the huge plant of the Guanajuato Electric 
 Light and Power Co. is located — and to the Bustos Mine. 
 A trip to the end of the different lines affords a cheap and 
 quick way of seeing the city and suburbs. 
 
 Guanajuato was the birthplace of Juan B. Morales, who is 
 
142 Route 32. 
 
 GUANAJUATO 
 
 The Mines. 
 
 enshrined in Mexican literature under the pseudonym of 
 GaRo Pitagorico (Pvthagoric Cock). In the Plaza de Mejia 
 Mora is a mural tablet which indicates the house in which the 
 eminent Mexican engineer Benito Leon Acosta was born. 
 
 The Mines. The traveller interested in the mines of Guana- 
 juato is referred to the bibliography, at p. ccxxxix, for books 
 treating the subject. 
 
 “The Churches of Guanajuato, upon which a great share 
 of the vast riches here produced has been lavished, have lost 
 much of their old-time splendor, but they still possess a deal 
 of interest. The Church of San Francisco , now the parochial 
 church (in the Calle de San Francisco) of the city, was origin- 
 ally the eh. of San Juan de Dios, begun in 1671 and completed 
 in 1696. In 1828, when it passed into the hands of the Fran- 
 ciscans, the ch. was subjected to a devastating reconstruction 
 that injured it unspeakably without and within. With its 
 commanding location it still has an impressive character. 
 The sacristy and the adjacent baptistry are at present the best 
 portions of the interior and are comparatively unspoiled. The 
 sacristy, which was added to the ch. in 1745, is a long and 
 lofty- vaulted room built across the ch. behind the high altar. 
 An uncommon feature is the great leaded window that occu- 
 pies the bay in the rear of the high altar in place of the custom- 
 ary tall reredos. This window admits light to the church from 
 the dome that lights the sacristy. The large painting at the 
 head of the sacristy, The Last Supper (by Vallejo), is dated 
 1777. What is now the baptistry was formerly the camarin 
 for the rich vestments of the famous image of the Virgin, 
 known as Nuestra Seuora de Guanajuato , 1 venerated in the 
 chapel of that vocation, adjoining the ch. The elaborate 
 entrance from the baptistry to the sacristy is richly decorated. 
 The carved confessionals in this ch. are among the few surviv- 
 ing fragments of the elaborate decorations of former days. 
 
 1 The figurine of Nuestra Serlora de Guanajuato is one of the oldest in 
 Mexico and perhaps one of the most venerated. Its history, if true, is 
 curious. It existed in Spain in the 7th century of the Christian Era, at 
 which epoch it was held in great veneration at Santa Fe, near Granada. 
 When Spain was invaded by Moors in 714. the image was taken by the 
 devout Granadans and hidden in a cave to save it from desecration by the 
 infidels. It remained hidden eight and a half centuries; its miraculous 
 origin and qualities being proven by the fact that the subterranean hid- 
 ing-place was damp, illy-ventilated and of a nature to destroy wood or 
 iron. But the figure was preserved from the slightest disfiguration. In 
 1557 Felipe II was so pleased by the vast royalties received from the 
 Guanajuato mines that he presented the camp with the figure of the 
 Virgin . It was long considered the Patroness of the city but was officially 
 declared so. by Papal sanction, in November, 1907. in the presence of a 
 vast, enthusiastic concourse. It was crowned with a beautiful gem- 
 studded gold crown (weighs 2 kilos.) June 1. 190$. 
 
 The figure, which is of wood, is crudely made and could not be called 
 handsome. Devotees believe it incorruptible by time. The silver pedestal 
 and the beautiful adornments are noteworthy. 
 
GUANAJUATO 
 
 82. Rte. 143 
 
 “The great Jesuit Temple, known as La Compania (facing 
 the Plaza de la Compania), is a church of magnificent propor- 
 tions, a length of 207 ft., a breadth of 94 and an interior height 
 of 66^ ft. The design of this church has been erroneously 
 attributed to Tresguerras (comp. p. cliii). Its architect was 
 a lay brother of the Bethlemite order, Fray Jose de la Cruz, 
 and the work proceeded under the immediate superintendence 
 of the Jesuit Fathers, Ignacio Rafael Corim; ina and Jose Joa- 
 quin de Sardaneta y Legazpi, the latter a kinsman of the 
 enormously wealthy mining magnate, the Marques de Rayas. 
 The church was begun on Aug. 6, 1747, and continued for 
 18 years, the architect Don Felipe Acuna eventually succeed- 
 ing Friar de la Cruz in the supervision of the work. The dedi- 
 cation took place on Nov. 8, 1765. 
 
 “ The original dome is said to have been a strikingly majestic 
 one. But through carelessness in carrying out certain pro- 
 jected alterations the supporting piers were so weakened that, 
 on Feb. 24, 1808, the enormous mass fell in. The present 
 dome is a modern construction, designed by Vicente Heredia 
 of the City of Mexico — an imposing structure with a drum of 
 two stories and superimposed orders of colonnades — hardly 
 in keeping with the general design and more effective as a 
 monumental feature in the landscape. Indeed, the church 
 is so shut in by surrounding buildings in the narrow valley 
 that near at hand the dome is not seen at all, and the effect 
 of the great structure is more scenic than monumental. For 
 this reason the somewhat trivial treatment of the exterior 
 ornamentation — the fagade, a beautiful blending of Baroque 
 and Churrigueresque, and the theatrical design of the stumpy 
 belfry of the one tower — is not so detrimental as it otherwise 
 might be. Quite different, however, is the effect of the spacious 
 interior, with its magnificently proportioned nave and aisles, 
 the harmonious color of the local stone, a grayish brown, 
 with greenish stones blending with chocolate in the altars. 
 The architect of the modern work in the church was Don 
 Herculano Ramirez; the high altar, however, is by the archi- 
 tect of the dome, Sehor Heredia. The sacristy, an uncom- 
 monly lofty and imposing room, corresponds in its location 
 to that of San Francisco.” (Sylvester Baxter.) 
 
 The Church of San Diego in the Plaza de la Union 
 possesses a particularly fine fagade in the Churrigueresque 
 style. Mr. Baxter refers to this as “one of the most exquisite 
 examples of this style to be found in Mexico — an architect- 
 ural jewel in its dainty elegance.” The original church and 
 convent, built in 1679, were destroyed by the flood of July 
 27, 1760, whereupon the site was raised to a considerable 
 elevation and the present beautiful structure erected. The 
 interior has suffered so much restoration that it is now without 
 interest to the traveller. 
 
144 Route 82. GUANAJUATO San Cayetano. 
 
 “About 2 M. from the city (J M. from the end of the 
 ‘Bustos’ car-line), on an eminence far above the great mass 
 of houses spreading through the narrow valley, commanding 
 spacious prospects and swept by free airs, stands the superb 
 Church of San Cayetano, built for the wonderful Valenciana 
 mine by its proprietor, the Conde de Rul. The mine was once 
 the richest of the Guanajuato group, its output having been 
 more than eight hundred million pesos. But the once city- 
 like village which it dominates — its people then thronging 
 the splendid space of the great church — to-day has but a 
 handful of inhabitants. In the presence of all this magnificence 
 — a veritable temple of riches built to proclaim the glory of 
 God with the might of man — in the exhilarating sun-filled 
 calm of the mountain air, together with a feeling of the transit 
 of the world’s glories, the beholder draws a deep breath of the 
 peace that passeth understanding. 
 
 “ This church was dedicated on Aug. 7, 1788. Its architect 
 is unknown, the archives of the church having been destroyed 
 in the course of the Mexican struggle for Independence. The 
 original plan was so imposing that the jealousy of the parish 
 cur a at Guanajuato was aroused. He claimed that license 
 had been given for a chapel, not a basilica, and the ensuing 
 controversy greatly delayed the work of construction. A 
 compromise was finally reached, and the rank of the church 
 was lowered by having only one tower complete. It is related 
 that the site of San Cayetano was found to cover one of the 
 richest mineral deposits in the great mining property, and 
 that when this was ascertained the Conde de Rul was offered 
 an enormous sum for the privilege of working the bonanza. 
 Moreover it was proposed to take down the church and reerect 
 it stone by stone, as good as before, on another site, free of 
 cost. The Count, however, did not listen to the offer. 
 
 “ The C hurrigueresque ornament of the exterior shows strong 
 Arabesque influences, and in its fineness of texture, the design 
 is quite unlike anything else in Mexico. This is particularly 
 evident in the side portal. There are three splendid Churri - 
 gueresque altars in the church, their retables occupying the 
 full height of the chancel and the transept. The high altar, 
 dedicated to San Cayetano , cost $40,000. The church has for- 
 tunately escaped renovating hands and is preserved in well- 
 nigh its original condition. It is kept in admirable order. 
 The only material change has been in the decoration of the 
 walls by four huge and indifferent canvases by a Guanajuato 
 painter. The interior masonry is elaborately carved, and very 
 charming is the way in which the stone-cutters were manifestly 
 given free hand in the relief ornament of the piers, arches, etc., 
 the designs not repeated, but showing delicate variations. 
 The coloring of the interior is unusually delicate. The walls 
 are of a cream white; in the arches, etc., the relief ornament 
 
STATE OF GUANAJUATO 32. Rte. 145 
 
 is white on a straw-colored ground, and the same is the case 
 with the dome. The pulpit is perhaps the best example of in- 
 laid work in the Queretaro style to be seen in Mexico. 
 
 “ This church once supported a service of exceeding magni- 
 ficence, maintained by the contribution of the miners at work 
 in the great V alenciana. Each one of the thousands employed 
 gave every week the value of a piece of ore called piedra de 
 mono — a stone the size of the hand. This produced the sum 
 of fifty thousand pesos annually. The scale of expenditure 
 that characterized the building and adornment of San Cayetano 
 is suggested by the elaborate temporary ornament provided for 
 its dedication, the tissue that entered into its composition 
 costing three hundred pesos a yard. At present only one priest 
 is in charge of the great church.” No fees necessary. 
 
 Guanajuato, one of the most favored of the Central Mexican 
 States, with a pop. of 1,061,724, and an area of 29,458 sqr. 
 kilom., is noted for its immense mineral deposits and its steady 
 output of gold and silver ores. Its boundaries are: San 
 Luis Potosi on the N., Queretaro on the E., Michoacan on the 
 S. and Jalisco on the W. Its resources are almost limitless, 
 its fauna and flora comprising 510 species. The flora embraces 
 23 kinds of wood, 44 fruit trees and plants, 32 textiles, 11 
 tanning plants, 15 oleaginous plants, 16 dyewoods, 80 or 
 more medicinal plants, 12 forage plants (alfalfa is produced 
 in enormous quantities, several crops a year), 18 aromatic 
 plants, 15 gums and resins and many ornamental flowers 
 and shrubs. The fauna embraces 41 mammals, 206 birds, 44 
 reptiles, 15 batrachians, 7 fishes and 148 insects. Corn, wheat 
 and tobacco to a combined value of about $10,000,000 are 
 raised annually. A specialty of the state is canary-seed, of 
 which considerable quantities are exported. 
 
 The topographical aspect is varied, giving rise to an equally 
 varied climate. Mountains rise from almost all over the state. 
 The principal cordilleras traversing it are the Sierra Gorda 
 (fat range) on the northeast, and the Sierra de Guanajuato 
 in the centre. The highest peaks in the latter are El Gigante 
 (the giant), 10,653 ft.; Los Llanitos (little plains), 11,013 ft. 
 above sea-level. Smaller ranges extend in various directions, 
 forming fertile valleys and productive plains. A single lake, 
 Yuririapundaro (lake of blood), which is 94 sqr. kilom. in 
 extent and contains several small islands, lies within the 
 state. Mineral springs abound ; prominent among them is the 
 spring near Silao, of Aguas Buenas (good waters) to which 
 the Indians attribute miraculous healing qualities. A casa 
 de banos (bathing-house) has been erected here for their ac- 
 commodation. Near the town of Irapuato (p. 126) is a spring 
 called Lodos de Munguia (Mungia’s mud spring) ; a mixture 
 of mineral water and argillaceous earth into which the invalid 
 immerses himself to the chin : remaining thus for a short time 
 
146 Route 32. GUANAJUATO History. 
 
 he emerges, bathes in hot water, then sweats out his ailment. 
 The spring is highly spoken of as a cure for rheumatic com- 
 plaints. A third spring is located near the Plaza Principal 
 in Celaya (p. 127) and is the favorite bathing-resort of the 
 inhabitants of that town. 
 
 Within the borders of the state are 50 flour-mills and many 
 manufactories of straw hats, pottery, wines, saddles, etc. 
 
 The Climate is healthful, albeit parts of the state lie within 
 the tropical zone. In the mountain towns it is often cold; 
 owing to the altitude of the plains it is never very hot. The 
 summer rains temper the air. The prevailing winds are from 
 the X.-E., changing to S.-E. at the approach of the rainy season 
 — June to October. 
 
 Historical Sketch. At the time of the Conquest the chief 
 city was Yuririapundaro, governed by a Tarascan cacique 
 quick-witted enough to realize that his life depended upon 
 his rapid conversion to the Catholic faith. He promptly be- 
 came so devout that even his name was changed and in his- 
 tory he is known as Alonso de Sosa (Alphonsus Soda). The 
 followers of Alphonsus who preferred the faith of their fore- 
 fathers to that of the iron-handed Conquistadores were quickly 
 exterminated. 
 
 Under the guidance of the cacique of Jilotepec (a blood re- 
 lation of Montezuma), the Spaniards conquered Acdmbaro 
 and entered the confines of Guanajuato in 1526. The natives 
 soon became dissatisfied with their new masters, and they car- 
 ried on a long and relentless war against them. The uprising 
 was finally quelled and at the instance of the Viceroy, a num- 
 ber of Tlascalan and Mexican families settled in the country. 
 The most important cities of the state were founded between 
 1599 and 1602, as by this time the errant Indians were killed 
 or reduced to bondage. Soon thereafter the Viceroy Don 
 Gas par de Zuniga y Acevedo took possession in the name of 
 the Spanish Crown. Two centuries later this state was the 
 cradle of Mexican Independence and from it went forth the 
 famous grito (p. cci) which resulted in the expulsion of the Ibe- 
 rians from Mexican soil. 
 
V. CENTRAL-WESTERN MEXICO, 
 
 33. From Irapuato via Lake Chapala to Guadalajara 
 
 (thence to Colima and Manzanillo) 148 
 
 From Yurecuaro to Los Reyes, 149. — Zamora, 149. — 
 Ocotlan,151. — From Ocotlan to Atotonilco, 151. — El 
 Lago de Chapala, 151. — From Atequisa Station to 
 the Lake, 151. — Ribera Castellanos, 155. — Hunting 
 and Fishing, 155. — The Island of Mescala, 156. 
 
 34. The Falls of Juanacatlan 159 
 
 35. Guadalajara 161 
 
 Arrival, 161. — Hotels, 161. — Means of Transportation, 
 
 161. — Post and Telegraph Offices, 162. - — Banks, 162. — 
 Shops, 162. — Cafes. 162. — Situation, History and Char- 
 acter of the City, 162. — The Plaza Mayor, El Palacio, 
 
 La Catedral, etc., 164. — The Laguna del Agua Azul,178. 
 
 Excursions from Guadalajara, 178. 
 
 Zapopan, 178. 
 
 Barranca de Oblatos, 178. 
 
 San Pedro Tlaquepaque, 179. — State of Jalisco, 181. 
 
 36. From Guadalajara via Zapotlan, Tuxpan and 
 
 Colima to Manzanillo 183 
 
 Colima City, 185. — El Volcan de Colima, 186. — Man- 
 zanillo, 188. — Colima State, 189. 
 
 37. From Mexico City via Toluca, Maravatio, Ac&m- 
 
 baro, Morelia and Patzcuaro to Uruapan . . . 191 
 
 San Bartolo Naucalpan, 191. — Nuestra Senora de los 
 Remedios, 191. 
 
 38. Toluca 194 
 
 Nuestra Senora de Tecajic, 198. — El Nevado, 198. — 
 
 From Toluca to Tenango, 198. — State of Mexico, 198. 
 
 — Real del Oro, 199. — Maravatio, 200. — From Mar- 
 avatio to Zitacuaro, 200. — Acambaro, 200. 
 
 39. Morelia 202 
 
 History and Character of the City, 202. — The Aque- 
 duct, 208. 
 
 40. Patzcuaro 209 
 
 El Calvario, 212. — Lake Patzcuaro, 213. — Fishing and 
 Hunting, 214. — Xanicho, 214. — Tzintzuntzan, 215. — 
 
 The Parish Church of Tzintzuntzan, 215. — The En- 
 tombment, 215. — Iguatzio, 216. — History of Michoacan 
 and the Lake Patzcuaro Region, 217. — The Tarascan 
 Indians, 218. — State of Michoacan de Ocampo, 224. — 
 
 Lake Zirahuen, 226. 
 
 41. Uruapan 227 
 
 Uruapan Lacquer-Ware, 229. — The Waterfall of Tzara- 
 racua, 229. — From Uruapan to the Pacific Coast, 230. 
 
148 Rout 9 33. 
 
 LA PIEDAD 
 
 33. From Irapuato via Lake Chapala to Guada- 
 lajara ( thence to Colima and Manzanillo ) . 
 
 260 Kilom. Through trains from Mexico City. No transfers. Pullman 
 buffet. For fares, etc., see p. xxxi. 
 
 Irapuato, see p. 126. The railway parallels the main line 
 for a short distance, then describes a wide curve and trends 
 toward the north-west across a fertile, level region bathed in 
 sempiternal sunshine, vocal with whistling kites and calling 
 doves, and devoted to the cultivation of strawberries, fruits 
 and maize. Many primitive well-sweeps are features of the 
 landscape. On, the left we get attractive vistas of the church 
 towers and domes peering above the mesquite trees. Many 
 of the small stations — 6 K. Charcos; 17 K. Rivera ; 24 K. Joa- 
 quin; 32 K. Abasolo; 39 K. Vargas — are fruit markets in 
 embryo where the traveller is urged to buy everything in 
 the vegetable range from peanuts to watermelons. The land 
 is amazingly productive, and the streams which flow down 
 from the distant hills are harnessed and led away through 
 acequias (irrigating-ditches) and weirs before being permitted I 
 to continue their whimpering way to the distant lowlands. 
 
 50 K. Penjamo, in a rich and finely watered district. The 
 village lies about 5 kilom. to the right of the railway and is 
 reached by a tram-line (fare 12 c.) whose cars await the arrival 
 of trains. 
 
 Trunks can be loaded on to the platform car ( plataforma ) at from 12 to 
 15 c. each, according to weight. Hotel de Guadalupe ; rooms 50 c. to SI ; 
 three meals SI inclusive. 
 
 The town contains nothing to interest the traveller. Not 
 far away is the village of Dolores Hidalgo (p. 104), birthplace 
 of the revolutionary patriot Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla. 
 
 A low range of verdure-covered hills follows the rly. line 
 on the 1. During the rainy season many lakelets form in the | 
 lowlands and the entire country is gay with pink and vari- I 
 colored wild-flowers. 65 K. Villasenor. 72 K. Palo Verde. 
 85 K. Cortes. 
 
 92 K. La Piedad, picturesquely situated on the banks of | 
 the Lerma River , 3 M. from the rly. station. Tram-cars meet 
 all trains; fare 12 c. ; luggage 15-25 c. (on the platform car). 
 Gran Hotel Central , facing the Plaza de Armas; SI. 75 to S3 
 Am. PI. — Hotel Nacional, Calle de Cebadas 9; Hotel \ 
 Guerra , Calle Primera Nacional 5; both SI. 50 to S3 Am. PI. 
 
 The unprogressive town of La Piedad lies on the slope of a 
 high hill, in a region called the granary of Mexico. Behind 
 the town a fine range of blue hills extends to the distant hori- 
 zon. The single church is uninteresting. The climate is mild 
 and equable and the district recalls certain of the fine agri- 
 cultural regions of Illinois or Kansas (U. S. A.). Sugar-cane, 
 
Los Reyes. 
 
 ZAMORA 
 
 88. Route. 149 
 
 tobacco, beans, and a variety of grains grow almost as pro- 
 lifically as the fine fruits — for which the district is noted. 
 In the bottom-lands the soil is rich, black and deep, and the 
 entire region is highly cultivated. Many of the near-by ha- 
 cendados (farmers) dwell in La Piedad, and the country pro- 
 duce is transported to the town, thence to the rly., in primi- 
 tive ox-carts with huge wood wheels and springless axles. 
 
 Many of the fat cattle, hogs and goats for the city markets 
 come from this section. 105 K. Patti. 118 K. Monteleon. Fine 
 views across the valley to the 1. ; in the lowlands a prosperous- 
 looking hacienda with several tile-roofed houses shows finely 
 against the green vegetation. We follow the crest of the 
 ridge; then descend into the valley. 
 
 126 K. Yurecuaro, point of departure for a branch rail- 
 way line ( Ramal de Zamora) to 138 K. Los Reyes. 
 
 One train daily in 8 hrs: fare $4.14 1st cl. The most important inter- 
 mediate station is 
 
 40 K. Zamora, in a picturesque valley of the same name ( State of 
 Michoacan ), with 15,000 inhab. The town is finely situated on the Duero 
 River , which rises in the district and empties into Lake Chapala. The 
 environing country is in a state of high cultivation, and it contains a 
 number of rich and productive haciendas. The land is astonishingly 
 fertile; the town is the chosen residence of many of the land-owners 
 roundabout. Zamora lives in the Spanish language in a proverb ( refran ) 
 to the effect that “ No se gano Zamora en una hora ” — the Spanish 
 equivalent of “Rome was not built in a day.” The town is named for the 
 fine old fortified Spanish city of Zamora, which in turn derives its name 
 from the Arabic Samurah, a sheepskin jacket much worn by the peas- 
 antry of that region. Tram-cars connect Zamora station with the town; 
 fare, 5 c.; trunks, 25 c. Hotel Mexico , Oalle Primera de Guerrero, 13 (near 
 the Plaza Principal) , $1.50 to $3 Am. PI. The upper rooms with the 
 balconies are the best. French, Spanish and Mexican cooking. Baths, 
 25 c. — Gran Hotel y Restaurant Colon , in the Portal de Allende (facing 
 the plaza)\ rooms only, 50 c.; with three meals, $1.50. — Gran Hotel 
 , Porfirio Diaz, facing the plaza; rooms, 75 c.; with meals, $1.50. The 
 , tram-cars run from Zamora to several pretty suburban towns. 
 
 Westward from Zamora the railway traverses some beautiful country 
 sprinkled with fine valleys, to 62 K. Chivinde , in the foothills. 
 
 I 1 119 K. Tinguindin is one of the oldest settlements in Mexico. It was 
 
 a Tarascan village hoary with age when the blow of Conquest fell on the 
 Aztecs in the Valley of Mexico. Its location, on the edge of the tierra 
 I caliente, gives it an equable and delightful climate. Rivulets of cool 
 I mountain water traverse the narrow streets and flow on as uneventfully 
 | as the lives of the primitive people. The hamlet and its customs have 
 I changed but little since the Spaniards came. Hence to 138 K. Los Reyes 
 (the kings) the line traverses (down-grade) a thickly wooded district. 
 
 Thirty miles northward of Yurecuaro lies Ayo el Chico , 
 noted for its luscious oranges ; two hundred or more car-loads 
 of this fine fruit are shipped during the season (June to Jan.) 
 ij to the United States, where it is prized. Oranges also thrive 
 in Yurecuaro. The quaint old church with a red tower, visible 
 to the right of the station, nestles amid orange groves. 
 
 Continuing westward we traverse a broken country and 
 I thread a series of valleys until the train emerges from a rocky 
 pass and reaches a bit of highland whence we get a beautiful 
 and extensive view of the wide (to the left) La Barca Valley. 
 
150 Route 33. 
 
 LA BARCA 
 
 In the far distance a range of blue mts. cuts the sky-line; 
 many small villages, each with its diminutive ch. and glisten- 
 ing spire shining in the sun, dot the intervening country. On 
 the broad haciendas of the valley some of the finest oranges 
 in Mexico are produced. The region is a sportsman’s (comp. p. 
 lxxvii) paradise. During the brief and delightfully cool period 
 called the “ Mexican winter,” it is the abiding-place of count- 
 less pelicans, cranes, geese, brant, ducks, snipe, plover, and 
 immense swarms of pretty, yellow-headed blackbirds. Small 
 bayous and marshes cut up some of the lowlands and in a dug- 
 out one may paddle for miles through the narrow water-lanes 
 connecting the ponds and lakelets. The wheat- and corn-fields 
 of the higher lands afford rich feeding-grounds for the birds, 
 which are rarely molested by the natives. The climate is de- 
 licious — a perpetual Indian Summer which is akin to that 
 of the Chapala district at the W. end of the valley. The peo- 
 ple are, as a rule, hospitable and obliging. Some of the cus- 
 toms of the inland districts are primitive and quaint. Stone 
 corrals and fences hem in the tiny, straw-thatched dwellings; 
 some of the spireless churches have no belfries and the bells 
 are hung from the limbs of near-by trees. A daily train will 
 carry the traveller E. or W. 
 
 147 K. Negrete, a straggling town visible on the left. A nat- 
 ive buckboard conveys passengers thence for 25 c. per per- 
 son. The line skirts the edge of the productive La Barca Valley 
 and traverses vast haciendas which recall the extensive cattle- 
 ranches of the South-west of the U. S. A. The valley broadens 
 and we cross a fine steel bridge spanning the Lerma River. 
 
 154 K. La Barca (the barge), a sun-baked town four miles 
 to the south of the station (left) on the Lerma. Tram-cars 
 meet all trains, 10 c. Gran Hotel Berlin, facing the Plaza Princi- 
 pal ; SI .50 to $2.50 Am. PI. ; English spoken. Trunks may be 
 sent up to the hotel (which faces the tram-line) for 10-25 c. 
 according to weight. At the rlv. station there is a refresh- 
 ment room (meals SI); good roast wild-duck (from the 
 near-by marshes) and buttermilk ( leche de mantequilla) . 
 
 A quaint, weather-beaten old parochial church and a crumb- 
 ling Palacio Municipal are the chief buildings of the town. 
 Fine fruits are specialties of the region and many varieties 
 are offered for sale at the rly. station — along with cheese, 
 milk, butter and similar products. The adjacent marshes 
 are usually alive with water-fowl. 158 K. Feliciano. 167 K. 
 Limon. 
 
 In the summer and early fall when ploughing for the winter 
 wheat is underway, many white- trousered peones, with 
 oxen and primitive wooden plows, are seen at work in the ad- 
 jacent fields. The red blankets (usually tucked in the branches 
 of mesquite trees) of the workers form strong color notes in 
 a landscape where the herbage is nearly always a vivid green. 
 
Lake Chapala. 
 
 OCOTLAN 
 
 38. Route. 151 
 
 The land is dotted with cane-fields which usually show a lighter 
 green — a mere lightening of shade — against the deeper 
 hues of alfalfa, corn, wheat and barley. 
 
 180 K. Ocotlan, where west-bound passengers for Lake 
 Chapala descend from the train. Tram-cars to the town 
 (visible in the distance), 10 c.; trunks, 15-25 c. A runner of 
 the Hotel Ribera Castellanos (see p. 155) usually meets 
 trains. 
 
 Ocotlan ( Nahuatl = place of the pines) lies in the earth- 
 quake belt and the town has suffered repeated shocks during 
 its existence. The brown-stone Parochial Church (uninterest- 
 ing), which faces the small, tidy Plaza Mayor, and the quaint 
 old Spanish bridge hard by are badly cracked. The ch. has 
 been twice destroyed completely. 
 
 A Branch Rly. Line ( Ramalde Atotonilco) runs hence (1 train daily in 
 1^ hrs.; consult the Guia Oficial ) toward the North to 35 K .Atotonilco, 
 in a fine orange-producing region. Hundreds of freight-cars take the 
 products of the vast groves to Mexico City (also to the U. S. A.), where 
 the fruit is in special demand. Some delicious naval (seedless) oranges 
 are grown hereabout. 
 
 For a continuation of the journey to Guadalajara see p. 158. 
 
 El Lago de Chapala. Chapala Village , at the N. end of 
 the lake, is reached in 3-4 hrs. by a steam launch (p. 155) 
 which plies between the village and Ocotlan. A popular 
 method of reaching Chapala is to descend from the train 
 at Atequisa station (p. 159) and travel thence by diligence 
 (i diligencia , stage-coach). Distance about 16 kilom. ; time about 
 3 hrs.; fare SI. 50 each way. A special conveyance ( guayin ) 
 can be had for a small party (about 4) at an inclusive 
 charge of $5 for the journey. During the rainy season 
 (June-Sept.) horses are sometimes substituted for the dili- 
 gencia, because of bad roads. 
 
 An advantage of the stage-ride is the glimpse one gets of Mexican 
 country life. A cross-country ride always carries a peculiar charm with 
 it, and this is particularly so in Mexico where the quaint, old-time Con- 
 cord stages — pushed beyond the frontier by the swifter railways — 
 are still in vogue. A ride in one of them nearly always carries one’s 
 thoughts back to the golden sunset flamings of the old Colonial days. In 
 Mexico from 3 to 9 mules are needed to draw these cumbrous equipages: 
 where the roads lead over stiffish grades the animals are hitched tandem 
 at times in sets of three abreast. Were it not for a unique local custom 
 the cocheros would find it difficult to hand an admonitory message, as a 
 speed encourager, to the head of one of these trios. Instead of a whip the 
 driver carries a number of stones neatly piled on the pescante beside him. 
 When one of the leaders shirks he hurls one of these stones at him, and 
 with a dexterity born of long practice, lands it with stinging force im- 
 mediately behind the ear of the “ soldier.” To the equine mind no doubt 
 this accuracy is worthy of a better cause. Its result is usually a plunge, 
 a snort, the uplifting of a pair of vengeful heels, then a spirited dash for 
 a mile or more — The coach swaying and creaking on its leathern hinges 
 as the excited animals plunge along. But where the leader is without 
 blinders the effect is often different. With equally noticeable skill — 
 a cunning perhaps developed in direct ratio to the driver’s ability — the 
 mule, though ostensibly gazing straight ahead, will deftly dodge the 
 
152 Route 33. CHAPALA VILLAGE 
 
 hurtling missile. At the first sign of “tracers” discharged in growing 
 wrath he forthwith abandons his straight-away travelling and runs half 
 sidewise, with one eye fixed on the road and the other turned apprehen- 
 sively toward the rear. As this manoeuvre usually disturbs the moral 
 equilibrium of the troop, the arriero soon decides to forget the past, and 
 peace is declared. 
 
 A night ride on a diligencia is generally very picturesque. A lackey 
 accompanies the driver and holds aloft flaring pine torches which cast a 
 weird light over the landscape and the speeding animals. 
 
 The road leads out from Atequisa ( diligencia station hard by 
 the rly.) past a big mill and an hacienda of the same name, 
 and plunges at once into the foot-hills. On clear days, Colima 
 (p. 1^6), 90 miles distant, is visible on the right. The high- 
 way traverses a district of rolling hills, flower-dotted valleys 
 and wind-swept highlands whence fine views of the surround- 
 ing country are had. Long before the lake is reached V-shaped 
 lines of wild-fowl may be seen winging their flight high 
 above. 
 
 At times the road narrows to a mere trail, and as we wind 
 around sharp declivities one’s thoughts hark back to Yosemite 
 drives and to similar trips across the great Sierras of the 
 North-west. The rancher os one meets here obey the rural 
 custom of going heavily armed; some carry revolvers only, 
 stuck into silver-bespangled holsters, while others carry rifles 
 and sabres. The omnipresent lariat usually hangs from the 
 pommel of the gayly-caparisoned saddle, and it is just as 
 ready to drag an unwary man from his saddle as to check 
 the headlong career of a recalcitrant steer. Albeit the days 
 of brigandage in Mexico are past, the timid traveller finds 
 it easy to recall the times when bandidos haunted this same 
 highway, stripped unfortunate travellers of every stitch of 
 clothing and usually sent them into Chapala clad in rustling 
 newspapers pinned together with mimosa thorns. 
 
 The diligencia generally draws up in front of one of the 
 several hotels at Chapala Village. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). Hotel Arzopala, facing the lake; $2.50 to $4 
 Am. PI., according to location of room. The upper rooms command 
 better views than those on the ground floor. Spanish cooking and man- 
 agement. — Hotel Victor Hugo , $2 to $2.50 Am. PI. — Hotel de la Palma , 
 $2 to $2.50 Am. PI. Lower rates for a prolonged stay in all the hotels. 
 
 Boats. Launch on the lake (consult the hotel manager), $5 an hour, 
 inclusive charge for a party of 10 or less. To Ocotlan , $3; round trip, $5. 
 Row-boats, 75 c. an hr. Each boat will hold three or four persons com- 
 fortably. The above rates also apply to boats at other towns on the lake. 
 El Viento is the name given by the fishermen to a sudden squall that 
 sometimes breaks over the lake. In a steam-launch one is generally 
 protected, but one is usually in for a fright and a wetting if caught out in 
 an open boat. Excursions should always be planned with the assistance 
 of the hotel manager; he should also be asked to fix the boatmen’s fees. 
 
 El Lago de Chapala, sometimes called El Mar Chapalico , 
 — Chapalan Sea, — 70 M. long by 20 M. wide, with a superficial 
 area of 270 sq. miles; largest of the Mexican lakes (comp, 
 the accompanying plan) in a beautiful lake-region on the 
 

EL LAGO DE CHAPALA 33. life. 153 
 
 boundary line between the states of Jalisco and Michoacan 
 (£ only of the area lies in Michoacan) , is 20 M. east of Guada- 
 lajara and 110 M. west of Irapuato, and is 5,159 ft. above 
 sea-level — almost a mile higher than the dome of the Boston 
 State House, the Brooklyn Bridge or the atrium of St. Paul’s 
 Cathedral at London. The depth ranges from 9 to 18 ft. The 
 name Chapala , or Chapalal, is a Nahuatl Indian word in 
 onomatopoetic imitation of the sound of the waves playing 
 on the beach. The sweet waters teem with fish (there is a 
 project on foot to stock the lake with Bass) and game-haunted 
 woodlands stretch along parts of the shore. The sunset effects 
 on the lake are sometimes very fine. The region was once the 
 resort of prehistoric mastodons, the bones of several of which 
 have been found. A number of picturesque hamlets flank 
 the lake at different points and boats ply between them. 
 
 The Climate of the region is that of a perpetual Indian 
 Summer — a winter haven for countless storm-driven wild- 
 fowl which seek it on their annual flight from the cold North. 
 
 The natives hold the somewhat singular belief that the migratory birds 
 come hither in search of cool weather, since they arrive at the beginning 
 of the Mexican winter and depart with the first breath of spring. Many 
 birds remain throughout the year, and the species are “as thick as leaves 
 in V allambrosa.” They dwell here practically undisturbed and they soon 
 become almost as tame as barnyard fowls. 
 
 “Here the timid survivors of the beautiful, snow-white 
 American Egret dwell in security, and here, too, the Great 
 Western Grebe, ‘ whose silky breast finds deadly favor in 
 other supposedly tender breasts,’ survives practically un- 
 molested.” Watchful, but unfrightened Loons laugh and flit 
 through the marshes, and clouds of White Pelicans sail over- 
 head or wheel and scream and fish in the shallow outlets 
 of the lake. 
 
 To the ornithologist Chapala and its environs are a sustained 
 delight. “Countless thousands of wild-fowl and song-birds 
 make this elysium the Mecca of their southern flight. A small 
 world of birds winter on these friendly marshes — an orni- 
 thological congress in which are represented almost every 
 district, perchance, of the great North-land and the country 
 which lies between. In flocks of many thousands come birds 
 of every size and hue, from the microscopic Blue-Crowned 
 Hummingbird to the Snow-Goose of Alberta; and from the 
 jet-black Raven of New England to the brilliant Cockatoo 
 of the tropics. A more varied and beautiful assemblage would 
 be difficult to imagine. Such a mingling of feathered nations 
 in a land of perpetual summer; where winsome blue skies 
 smile upon flower-decked fields, and sweet-smelling copses 
 are eternally wooed by perfume-laden breezes, is more to the 
 lover of Nature than all the world expositions that could be 
 crowded together in a double century.” 
 
154 Rte. 83. EL LAGO DE CHAPALA 
 
 A gifted American writer, 1 referring to the Chapala district, 
 says: “The air was filled with a multitude of sweet notes — 
 half strange, half familiar — and the sight of scores of bril- 
 liant yellow breasts, crescent-marked, turned toward us, 
 told us that it was a hint of Meadowlark music which puzzled 
 our memory. But this melody was very unlike the sharp, 
 steel tones which ring so true across the frost-gemmed fields 
 of our Northland in early spring. The larks looked very little 
 different from our Northern birds; their backs perhaps darker 
 and their breasts of a warmer, more orange yellow\ This 
 genial, tropical air has thawed their voices and softened their 
 tones, and the sweetest of choruses came from the throats 
 of these Mexican Meadowlarks. . . . 
 
 “We saw a misty, dun-colored cloud slowly disentangling 
 itself from the marsh. Untold numbers of White-fronted 
 Geese drifted slowly off toward the lake. We realized that w*e 
 were looking at enormous flocks of Snow-Geese taking to 
 wing, — one of the most beautiful sights in the world of birds. 
 A small flock of White-fronted Geese passes rapidly overhead, 
 not very high up, when all at once there floats into view cloud 
 after cloud of purest white, stained on one edge by the gold 
 of the setting sun. We look up until our bodies ache, and still 
 they come, silently driving into the darkening north. The 
 great imperative call of the year has sounded; the drawing 
 which brooks no refusal. Our letters from the North tell of 
 snow and blizzards — the most terrible winter for many years. 
 No hint of spring has yet been felt there, while here in the 
 tropics no frost or snow has come through the winter, food 
 is abundant, hunters few; yet a summons has pulsed through 
 the finer arteries of Nature, intangible to us, omnipotent to 
 the birds. Until dark, and no one can tell how long after, 
 the Snow-Geese of Labrador, of Hudson Bay, of Greenland, 
 of Alaska, perhaps of lands still unknown, speed northward.” 
 
 Brown Towhees and Curve-billed Thrashers people the en- 
 vironing chaparral with their chattering hosts; Sandpipers 
 skate along the banks of small lagoons, elusive Coots dive in 
 and out of the tepid waters, and dainty little Scaup Ducks 
 float like painted toy sail-boats on the shimmering surface. 
 u Scattered through these lagoons are tiny islets whose surfaces 
 are covered with Ducks and Geese and Pelicans sleeping or 
 preening themselves in the warm sunlight. At certain seasons 
 untold thousands of Pintails and Widgeons bid adios to their 
 winter rendezvous and trim their new sails toward the calling 
 North. Bicolored Blackbirds and sweet-throated Meadow- 
 larks in careering multitudes add touches of color and music 
 to the peaceful assemblage — peaceful because even the most 
 timid Yellowhead and Redwings appear unconcerned in the 
 presence of numberless Sennett White-tailed Hawks that 
 
 1 C. William Beebe 4 Two Bird-Lovers in Mexico (Boston, 1905). 
 
RIBERA CASTELLANOS 33. Route. 155 
 
 wheel and skirl through the upper air. Here one gains the 
 impression that he is on neutral ground where an all-embrac- 
 ing truce has been declared between the hunting and hunted 
 birds. Even the many black Rattlesnakes, which are as thick 
 as Moccasins in the Dismal Swamp, seem to share in the 
 general armistice, for they slip in and out through the lily- 
 choked lagoons with never a visible hint of sinister designs. 
 Wading knee-deep in these lagoons are usually hundreds of 
 White-faced Glossy Ibis, while Shovellers, Pintails, Blue- 
 winged and Cinnamon Teal, and Black-necked Stilts live in 
 such numbers as to defy all efforts at successful counting. 
 Killdeer Plover animate the meadow lands adjacent to the 
 lake. The Santiago River which flows therefrom is usually 
 alive with Great Blue Herons, Reddish Egrets and fat Mallard 
 Ducks, the latter all asheen as their iridescent green heads 
 and handsome backs move about in the bright sunshine. 
 Gadwalls with beautiful marbled breasts are also common, 
 and Canvasback Ducks — the fugitive delights of the North- 
 ern huntsmen — make of the Chapala region a populous and 
 permanent abiding-place.” 
 
 Ribera Castellanos (often spoken of as the Riviera of 
 Mexico ), the most popular resort on the lake shore, 3 M. 
 south of Ocotlan , with a good hotel and attractive scenery, 
 is perhaps destined to become a celebrated tourist resort. 
 Boating, fishing, riding, driving and hunting excursions are 
 planned by the hotel management at reasonable rates. 
 Ribera Hotel, on a high hill immediately overlooking the lake, 
 $4 up. Am. PL, Amer. cooking and management. The hotel 
 courier meets all trains, and the company’s gasoline launch 
 conveys passengers (and luggage) along the lake shore to the 
 hotel. Fare, 50 c. Trunks, 50 c. The Ocotlan tranvia carries 
 the passenger (5 c.) from the rly. station to the little orange- 
 crowned plaza in the centre of the town. Thence it is 2 min. 
 walk to the boat-landing, near a quaint old stone bridge, built 
 by the Spaniards. Hand-bags by cargador 12-25 c. between 
 car and landing. 
 
 We follow the course of the Rio Zula and soon turn into 
 the Rio Santiago , which flows out of the lake. At certain 
 seasons of the year the narrow river is almost choked with 
 floating lirio acuatico. The f hr. ride on the water is very 
 attractive. The company rents row-boats and launches. The 
 smaller boats, manned, cost about SI a day per passenger. 
 Sail-boats holding about 6 persons, $1 an ho.ur; $2 to $5 the 
 hour for short trips in the launch holding 6-15 passengers. 
 Horses at reasonable rates. Good swimming from the end of 
 the pier. Excellent fishing everywhere in the lake. Good 
 hunting (ducks, geese, etc.) within a mile or more of the 
 hotel. For rooms, etc., address Ribera Hotel, Ribera Castel- 
 lanos, Ocotlan, Jalisco, Mexico. 
 
156 Rte. 33. ISLAND OF MESCALA 
 
 Fish are plentiful: the most popular is the Blanco, or 
 White Fish, known as the Lake Herring, albeit it differs widely 
 from the true herring. It is a handsome fish, silver from tip 
 to tail, showing transparent in the sunlight. It tastes like 
 Sole and attains a length of a foot or more. 
 
 El Bagre — knowm in the eastern U. S. A. as the Hornpout, 
 and in the West as the Catfish — is plentiful and in the deeper 
 reaches of the lake they attain great size and weight. The 
 natives prize the small ones, but attribute poisonous qualities 
 to the big ones — doubtless because of their scavenger habits 
 — and they eat them only in the absence of others. 
 
 The Charal , a species of sardine, almost perfectly trans- 
 parent (a sort of miniature Blanco ), swarm in the lake and are 
 much prized. They are caught in multitudes, salted, and sold 
 in the Guadalajara markets. A spiny little fish — known 
 also as La Sardina , but w T hose meat is darker than that of the 
 bianco — is also caught in great numbers. 
 
 The Popocha and the Majarra are much prized by the 
 inhabitants of the surrounding towms. Great quantities of the 
 former are shipped to Toluca w’here a special demand exists 
 for them. The Chusme or Boquinete, closely allied to the 
 Bream, is considered a great delicacy. German Carp abound ; 
 the Mex. Gov’t having stocked the lake w-ith this fish — to 
 the disgust of the natives, wdio do not like them. 
 
 The fish are netted by the natives, and caught with hook 
 and line by the foreigners. The nets are admirably made, 
 oftentimes 300 ft. long and they resemble the fine Yucatan 
 hammocks in texture. The fishermen are a sturdy and self- 
 reliant lot, different from the cringing peon of the Central 
 Plateau. They are the direct descendants of the Indian 
 whom the Spaniards found in the same fishing-village of 
 Chapala four centuries ago. In the intervening period they 
 have changed but little. Their basalt idols and their fetish 
 worship have been replaced by the milder tenets of the Catholic 
 faith but the Indian characteristics remain ; the same stoicism, 
 the same disdain for civilization and its enervating luxuries 
 and the same shrinking from the contaminating touch of 
 the white man. Their progenitors w T aged a long and bitter 
 war against the conquering Spaniards, and the fathers of the 
 present generation are renowmed in Mexican annals as heroic 
 and indefatigable fighters in the cause of Independence and 
 the expulsion of the Iberians. The Chapaltecos took up the 
 cause of Mexican Independence with the heroic determina- 
 tion shown by their progenitors in their efforts to evade the 
 Spanish yoke. Jose Santa Anna (not to be confounded with 
 Santa Anna the Dictator), with a few T hundred native patriots 
 as brave as lions, captained by a second Cuauhtemoc, and 
 spurred to deeds of valor by a self-sacrificing and liberty- 
 loving friar, defended the Island of Mescala for five years 
 
COASTAL TOWNS 33. Route. 157 
 
 against rabid royalists, formidable in numbers and reen- 
 forced repeatedly by men and modern arms from the Pacific 
 port of San Bias. This island, six leagues from Chapala 
 Village and one of the points usually visited by tourists, bears 
 practically the same relation to Chapala that San Juan de 
 Ulua bears to Vera Cruz. At one period in Mex. history it 
 was a penal settlement ; the focus for the captured criminals 
 of Michoacan and Jalisco. Later it was converted into a 
 fortress and during the troublous times which followed the 
 first faint cry for Independence (1810) it was the theatre 
 of many deadly conflicts between the harassed patriots and 
 the royalists. 
 
 The armament of the natives consisted of 12 small cannon and an as- 
 sortment of side-arms: with these the beleaguered patriots made a des- 
 perate resistance from 1812 to 1817. In their tiny Gibraltar they fought 
 with the zeal and courage of the last Aztecs on their teocalli tops, and 
 engraved on the pages of Mexican history a record of which every patriot 
 is pardonably proud. During the siege launches and larger boats were 
 brought overland from San Bias , and for years the vigilant Spaniards 
 believed they were successfully blockading the island. But the wary 
 natives of the mainland slipped through regularly with the provisions 
 and stores supplied by watchful adherents of the cause. In time the in- 
 vaders became tired and desperate, and by a tremendous assault carried 
 the fortress and captured its valiant defenders. 
 
 The island proper is about one mile long by less than a half- 
 mile broad ; it is accessible only at the point where boats now 
 land. The launch carries visitors to the old Sally-Port — once 
 the defence of the stone wharf where supplies were landed. 
 The nearest mainland is the fishing-village of Mescala, some 
 three miles distant. The immense prison ( presidio , a name 
 often applied to the island), which dominates the lake for miles 
 around, is falling into decay. An old care-taker and his 
 decrepit wife are the sole occupants of the castle-like pile — 
 which is perched on the crest of a commanding hill. The 
 visitor may like to bear in mind that Mescala has an unsavory 
 reputation for alacranes (comp. p. 100), the bite of which is 
 often fatal. The fishermen say there is an alacran for every 
 stone on the rocky island, and they usually warn visitors 
 against these venomous pests. 
 
 The adjacent Isla de Sacrificios is not worth visiting. 
 
 A launch service conveys passengers to the different points 
 of interest around the lake. The principal shore villages are 
 Tuscueca, Jocotepec, Jamay, Pajacuaran , La Palma, and Tiza- 
 pan. In these quiet hamlets the natives live the simple life in 
 the real sense of the word. Their customs are those of other 
 years ; their thoughts the most primitive. Each tiny port 
 has its stretch of white beach in lieu of a harbor and a main 
 street; and each its fleet of time- and water-stained fishing- 
 smacks, resting placidly on the sand. The tall masts of these 
 boats, and the small, whitewashed towers of the parochial 
 church advertise to the passing world the two ideas dominant 
 
1 58 Route 33. 
 
 T I ZAP AN — JAM AY 
 
 in the villagers’ minds — religion and fish. The first was the 
 alleged benefit the Chapalans received from the Spaniards — 
 in exchange for their lands and their independence; the 
 latter was known to them many years (mayhap) before a 
 bigot ruled in Spain or the greedy Spanish gold-seekers 
 swarmed to the New World. On certain dias de fiesta these 
 little towns take on a speck of color, and in the central plazas 
 are held tianguis (markets) after the manner of the Aztecs 
 four centuries ago. 
 
 Tizapan is on the edge of a fine fruit region. Jamay . on the 
 south shore (3 M. from Ribera Castellanos), is noted for fine 
 petates — a species of mat made of palm leaves. The industry 
 gives employment to nearly all the inhabitants, from the 
 toddling tots to the sturdy centenarians. It is also celebrated 
 locally for a crude, but curious, monument erected (about 
 50 years ago) to Pio Notio. It is the work of local craftsmen 
 and was constructed with funds subscribed by the mat-makers. 
 Although made of a cement-like clay, and repeatedly joggled 
 by earthquakes, it still stands; its quaint carvings recall cer- 
 tain of the Jat temples of British India. 
 
 In these sequestered spots, far from the destructive com- 
 plexities of modern life, almost every man lives his allotted 
 threescore years and ten. while many of them pass the cen- 
 tury mark with a springy step and a resolve to make the next 
 decade unusually depopulating for the piscine denizens of 
 the lake. 
 
 The chief feature of the small Village of Chapala is the 
 double-spired church with an image of the saint to which the 
 fishermen pray before departing on their trips. A heavy 
 catch and a safe return are the limits of their petition and 
 ambition. The hot sulphur springs near by are supposed to 
 be efficacious in rheumatic ailments. At their source the 
 waters show a temperature of 100° Fahr. ; which is too hot for 
 comfortable bathing. In the tanks into which the water is 
 led the temperature is about 70°. The views over the lake 
 on moonlit nights are very beautiful. 
 
 Ocotlan , see p. 151. Continuing our journey westward we 
 soon cross the Rio Santiago , spanned (at the left) by a time- 
 stained Spanish bridge of many arches. The grade slopes up- 
 ward by the sides of squat hills covered with nopal cacti and 
 patches of tall maize. The small ranchos hereabout are covered 
 with volcanic rocks, perchance thrown out of the fine conical 
 mt. on the 1. of the rly. The natives have employed many of 
 these basaltic boulders to erect fences around their little landed 
 estates. Features of the region — as well as of many others 
 in the Republic — are the svmmetrical stone fences which, 
 in an effort to accurately delimn the ranchos , extend up the 
 mountain-sides quite to the top. In the late summer many 
 miles of this section are diapered with yellow wild-flowers, 
 
THE FALLS OF JUANACATLAN 34. Rte. 159 
 
 and the lowlands and marshes are blue with the tints of the 
 lirio acudtico. A noteworthy flower is the parasite of the 
 mesquite tree, a kind of mistletoe, called ingerto (grafted). 
 For many miles up and down the line the branches of the 
 mesquite are loaded with this singular growth, which at first 
 sight appears to be the flower produced by the tree itself. 
 
 197 K. Poncitlan , in a marshy region on the edge of a rush- 
 ing river; across which, to the right, is a picturesque stone 
 bridge, a relic of colonial days. Tall cranes wade the shallow 
 waters and many water-lilies are seen. 203 K. Constancia. 
 
 211 K. San Jacinto. The line skirts the river-bank and 
 passes a pretty waterfall. In its westward course the stream 
 drains and irrigates a rich section of the country. When the 
 river runs full, a myriad water-hyacinths float down on the 
 turgid waters, and at certain points almost choke the stream. 
 In the autumn the adjacent lowlands flame with the blooms 
 of wild mustard. Hereabout the fodder is stacked in trees to 
 place it out of reach of marauding cattle and of water when 
 the river overflows its banks. 216 K. Corona. 
 
 219 K. Atequisa , point of departure for east-bound passen- 
 gers travelling to Lake Chapala (see p. 151) . Atequisa town lies 
 about { M. to the left of the railway. The stage-coach for 
 Chapala Village meets trains. The tram-cars proceed to Ate- 
 quisa only. Fine oranges are produced on the adjacent 
 haciendas. 227 K. La Capilla. 
 
 235 K. El Castillo. A tram-line runs hence to 7 K. El 
 Salto de Juanacatlan, see below. 
 
 34. The Falls of Juanacatlan. 
 
 The Falls of Juanacatlan (called the Mexican Niagara) are 
 reached by a tramway whose cars depart from their terminus 
 at the left of the station ; time about 30 min. each way. Fare 
 (round trip), 40 c. Hand-baggage can be left at Castillo in 
 care of the station agent. No fees necessary. 
 
 The line runs northward through the treeless but fertile 
 valley of Toluquilla t dotted here and there with diminutive 
 tile-roofed houses and rancliitos. At certain seasons (after 
 the rains) the fields are covered with ox-eyed daisies, marga - 
 ritas and a delicate, transparent flower called San Miguel. 
 The climate of the valley is mild. The landscape is usually 
 bathed in warm sunshine, and the air vibrates to the lilting 
 of many birds and to the humming, droning monotone of 
 countless insects. Water-lilies nod above the quiet pools, 
 turtles climb to stones and logs to dry themselves in the 
 sun and to doze in the golden light; the occasional ringing 
 call of a guinea-hen echoes across the open and blends with 
 the melodious whistle of quail, or the hail of a friendly 
 ranxhero guarding his cattle. In the sequestered valleys of 
 
160 Rte.34. THE FALLS OF JUANACATLAN 
 
 the distant hills several small hamlets nestle cosily, adver- 
 tising themselves to the passing world by the small, pointed 
 church spires which rise above the trees. The tinkling 
 notes of some hidden chapel bell ride down occasionally on 
 the summer breeze. As we near the falls a changing cloud 
 of silver mist, shot with many rainbows, is seen hovering 
 above the river and the pool. To the right the river winds 
 like a brown ribbon along the valley edge. The shallow la- 
 goons are the winter rendezvous of myriad water-fowl. The 
 lowlands are covered with the bright green of growing hya- 
 cinths. Small boys who offer their services as guides (un- 
 necessary) await the arrival of the car. We retrace our 
 steps along the station platform, continue down a clean little 
 street with a row’ of houses on the left and a hedge-row on the 
 right, and on reaching the end of the street (about -g- mile) j 
 we turn sharply to the left and follow’ the car (rly.) track, to 
 the big mill, a hundred feet or more beyond. Above the mill is 
 a new r bridge spanning the river. A toll is collected if the 
 centre is crossed. The best river view of the falls is from the 
 roof of the electric light and pow’er station at the base of the 
 mill, on the river edge. The roof is reached (permit unneces- 
 sary) by following the winding stone stair to the left of the 
 track. The horse-shoe fall measures 524 ft. from tip to tip; 
 the fall is 70 ft. high. The volume of water varies wfith the 
 season. During the dry season (Sept.-June) the river dwindles 
 to about 30 small saltos , leaving the edge of the precipice vis- 
 ible in many places. During the rainy season a dense sheet 
 of browrn w’ater falls, with a reverberating roar, into the pool, 
 w r hile fairy-like clouds of rainbow-dotted mist hang above 
 it. At this time an almost constant stream of uprooted lirios 
 pass over the falls and whirl away to find lodgement, and grow 
 with amazing vitality, in the river below 7 . The upper chutes 
 beneath the bridge are oftentimes choked with them, to the 
 annoyance of the watchers of the flumes and gates. The lily 
 produces a pretty blue flow’er. Pigs are very fond of the bulbs 
 and they come here from the surrounding country to feed 
 upon them — w ading into the river and catching at the plants 
 as they whirl by. Failing in this they seek those w r hich creep 
 with the under-current along the bottom of the stream. 
 Practice renders these sw 7 ine semi-amphibious, and the visitor 
 may sometimes witness the odd sight of a score or more hog- 
 backs arching above the w’ater like browrn or black basaltic I 
 rocks, while the heads of the ow’ners remain under water for i 
 what seems an uncommonly long time. 
 
 The river, El Rio Santiago , knowm locally as Rio Grande , 
 flows out of Lake Chapala and is the same stream that plunges ' 
 through the Barranca de Oblatos (p. 178) near Guadalajara. 
 
 The electric power plant at the foot of the falls was erected with a view 
 to supplying Guadalaj ara with light and power. The falls furnish power 
 
 

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GUADALAJARA 
 
 35. Route. 161 
 
 to the Mill of the Sacred Heart of Jesus , above the power-station, and to 
 a starch-factory and a cotton-mill further down. In the latter mill the 
 cotton mantas so much used by the native women are made. 
 
 From El Castillo we continue the journey westward to 
 242 K. Kings. 252 K. La Junta. We climb once more to the 
 highlands and secure splendid views (to the 1.) of wide valleys 
 hemmed in at the horizon by blue-peaked hills. Lakes whose 
 entire surfaces are blue with water-lilies lie in the depressions 
 and the hillsides are furrowed by many vertical arroyos 
 The town of San Pedro, crowning the crest of a hill, is seen 
 on the r. We descend rapidly. Soon the spires and domes of 
 Guadalajara come into view. The Laguna del Agua Azul (see 
 p. 178) is passed (r. & 1.) just before we enter the city. 260 
 K. Guadalajara, see below. 
 
 35. Guadalajara. 
 
 Arrival. The Rlv. Station is at the foot of the Avenida 16 de Septiembre, 
 or Calle No. 14 (formerly Calle de San Francisco) , within 5 min. walk of the 
 centre of the city and the chief hotels. Cabs and autos at the stand across 
 the street from the exit. Cargadores (see p. Iii6) meet all trains and will 
 carry hand-luggage to the hotel for 50 c. Small trunks 1 peso, or according 
 to the bargain (advisable) one may make. Checks and luggage can with 
 safety be delivered to the hotel runners who meet the trains. Tram-cars 
 pass in front of the station and run to all parts of the city. 
 
 Trains on the branch line for (56 M.) Ameca, and for the Ramal de San 
 Marcos, which leads off from La Vega (on the Ameca line) to (29 M.) San 
 Marcos, leave from this station. Also trains for Lake Chapala. For the 
 Colima- Manzanillo Extension, see Route 36, p. 183. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). Of the several hotels (chiefly under native man- 
 agement), foreigners generally prefer the new, clean, and unusually attrac- 
 tive (recommended) Hotel San Francis (American management, cooking, 
 service and comfort), recently completed (elevators, sunny, spacious rooms 
 with wooden floors, baths, hot and cold running water, extensive views, at- 
 tractive patio and many modern comforts — one of the best hotels in the 
 Republic), at the corner (left, from the station) of the flower-crowned 
 Jardin de San Francisco (2 min. walk from the station). The structure 
 is 5 stories high, and from the upper rooms one commands beguiling views 
 over the city to the distant hills. Rates: Rooms without bath, from $3 
 (pesos) a day; with bath, from $5. Meals in the dining room a la carta. 
 Special rates for two persons in one room, and for a long stay. Suites for 
 the winter at low rates. — Other hotels are El Fenix, Calle 7. Cos- 
 mopolita, near the station. Frances, in the rear of the Palacio de Gobierno. 
 French management. 
 
 The City Plan and Street Names. The mania which recently impelled 
 the Mexico City authorities to change the names of certain of the metropol- 
 itan streets for newer names which convey no inkling of their romantic or 
 historic associations, has spread to Guadalajara, with lamentable effects. 
 
 , Many of the old street names have disappeared, and in certain instances 
 complicated numbers which the residents do not, and won!t, understand, re- 
 place them. The proletariat continue to call the streets and avenues by 
 their old names, and these no doubt will in time be replaced. The nomen- 
 clature is a Chinese puzzle to the stranger, who should waste no time try- 
 ing to decode it. 
 
 According to the new system the city is divided into four sectors which 
 start from an axis, or centre, called Eje Poniente, Eje Oriente (W. and E. 
 axis) Calzada dcla Independencia (Independence Causeway), and Norte ySur 
 (N. and S.). The sectors are called Hidalgo, Juarez, Libertad, and Reforma. 
 Streets running N. and S. are designated by even numbers, those running 
 E. and W. by uneven numbers. Cross streets are designated by letters, as A. 
 B., etc. Certain short streets carry both numbers and letters. Others carry 
 
162 Route 35 . 
 
 GUADALAJARA 
 
 names, numbers and letters. These appear on the street corners, attached 
 t o the houses, in white on a plaque ( placa ) with a blue glazed ground. The 
 insignia on certain of them is, approximately, as follows: Sector Hidalgo , 
 Calle 30, Cuartd (ward, district) J+, Manzana (square, block) 53. — Shrewd 
 advertisers have not been slow to copy the style of plaque used by the 
 municipality in naming the streets, and sometimes when searching for a 
 certain street one's attention is arrested by a plaque bearing the admonition 
 to “Liven up your liver by using Dr. Garcias’ busy little pills!” 
 
 The city is compact; and the social and commercial life centres around 
 the Plaza (3 squares at the left of the Jardin San Francisco ) . 
 
 Cabs and Autos meet all trains. To any hotel, 50 c. Blue flag cabs, by 
 the hour SI. 50; l hr. 75 c. Red flag $1 and 50 c. Ford taxis $2.50 per 
 hr., $1.50, b hr. Larger cars $4 and $2.50. The tram-cars of the Com- 
 pahla de Tranvias Luz y Fuerza de Guadalajara provide a good and cheap 
 service to all parts of the city and its suburbs. Horseback riding is popular 
 and horses can be hired (consult the hotel manager) at reasonable prices. 
 
 Banks, where money can be exchanged, and travellers’ checks, etc., cashed: 
 A. R. Downs <£ Son; Salvador Ugarie (correspondent of the Mexico City 
 Banking Corporation) ; Banque Frangaise du Mexique ( Sucesores de Lacaud 
 eHiio), etc. 
 
 Moving Pictures (American films) at the Cine Lux. 
 
 Shops. Tne best native shops ( tiendas ) are in the vicinity of the plaza and 
 the portales which flank them. Prices are usually flexible, and foreigners are 
 sometimes asked more than the articles are worth or the dealer expects to 
 receive. Antiques, curios and the like can be bought to better advantage 
 in the^ well-known shops of the capital. 
 
 Cafes. The best among these are under or near the portales. As a rule 
 the hotel dining-rooms are more attractive. 
 
 Steamship Agents. Certain of the Steamship Lines touching at the 
 chief Pacific Coast Ports have agents here: Pacific Mail Steamship Co., G. 
 Amsinck Co., agents; The Mexican States Line, Sr. Teodoro Collignon; 
 Compahla Mexicana de Navigacidti, Sr. Axel Bulle. See the directory*. 
 
 Guadalajara (Arabic Wala-l-Hajarah, or rocky river; 
 named for the Moorish city of Guadalajara in Spain), 5,200 ft. 
 above sea-level, with a population of 150,000; one of the clean- 
 est, finest, brightest, and healthiest of the Mexican cities, on 
 gently sloping ground with low hills to the north, east and 
 south; the seat of a bishop, of a university and of a number 
 of rich and handsome churches, is frequently referred to by 
 enthusiastic writers as the “ Pearl of the Occident,” “Sultana 
 of the West,” the “Mexican Dresden,” and so on. After the 
 Mexican Capital it is unquestionably the most orderly, the 
 handsomest and most attractive city of the Mexican Republic. 
 Its hotels are cheerful and possess certain modern comforts, 
 its people are educated, industrious and simpdtico , and because 
 of this latter the place is unusually progressive. The Tapatios , 
 or Guadalajareuos , as the inhabitants are called, are a well-set- 
 up and handsome lot, particularly the women, some of whom 
 are remarkable for their beauty. 
 
 The State? of Jalisco and Michoacan bear somewhat the same relation 
 to the Mexican Republic that Massachusetts and Virginia do to the 
 United States — both having been colonized by the better classes. After 
 the Conquest many of the Spanish nobility chose Guadalajara and Morelia 
 (p. 202) for their home in the New World, and the practically unadul- 
 terated descendants of these folk are noticeable in the two cities. 
 
 The generous climate (p. 164) of Guadalajara, and the absence 
 of that insidious form of insanity alluded to as the “ strenuous 
 life,” preserve the people and prolong their lives. Pulque 
 
History. 
 
 GUADALAJARA 
 
 35. Route. 163 
 
 (p. lxxxii), the curse of the Mexican table-land, is not produced 
 in Jalisco in appreciable quantities, and its perishable nature 
 prevents its being shipped hither. Its absence is also a great 
 benefit to the people. As a direct consequence the lower 
 classes of Guadalajara are more alert, better dressed, better 
 nourished and are more willing workers and better citizens 
 than their sodden brethren of the Valley of Mexico. 
 
 History. The city was named by Captain Juan de Ofiate 
 in honor of his commander Nufio de Guzman, who was born 
 in the Spanish city of Guadalajara. It was founded in 1530, 
 or thereabout, and when the rebellious Indians had been sub- 
 dued some years later, it was made the capital of the rich 
 region long known as El Reino de Nuevo Galicia (The Kingdom 
 of New Galicia). By a decree of the Audiencia Real it was 
 made (in 1560) the seat of the Episcopal power of Western 
 Mexico. El Ilustrisimo Senor Don Pedro Gomez Marabar was the 
 first bishop, and every year the Cathedral Chapter erects a 
 temporary cenotaph to celebrate his funeral rites, while mass 
 is sung for the eternal repose of his soul. Pedro de Alvarado, 
 a lieutenant of Hernan Cortes, a conquistador, and a dashing 
 figure in the Spanish invasion of Mexico, died here July 4, 
 1541. 1 
 
 In 1810 Guadalajara had upward of 60,000 inhabitants and 
 was prosperous. The War for Independence brought commer- 
 cial stagnation to it, and for a decade or more it went back- 
 ward. Peace induced renewed prosperity, but nothing equal 
 to that initiated by the appearance of the first American 
 locomotive, which reached here April 16, 1888, and awakened 
 the people to the meaning of progress along foreign lines. 
 
 As a general rule reform movements in the Repub. operate 
 first in the capital, then spread gradually to the two oceans 
 and the frontier. Thus it is that the Church is more prominent 
 in Guadalajara than in some other Mex. cities. Almost every 
 hour during the day the ringing of ch. bells is heard, and 
 religious observances seem more a part of the people’s lives 
 than elsewhere. Ecclesiastics are more in evidence on the 
 streets and the low’er classes vie with each other in efforts 
 to kiss the clerical hand. Guadalajara has always been noted 
 for the sane and liberal ideas of its rulers, and the people are 
 happy and enlightened. The memory of this city and its 
 contented inhabitants, its brilliant sunshine, its quaint build- 
 ings and its matchless blue sky, remains with the traveller 
 long after he has left Mexico. The serenity of the life at 
 Guadalajara appeals to most men, while its flower-decked 
 
 1 He was mortally injured by being thrown from his horse into a 
 rocky ravine near Manzanillo , and he was brought to Guadalajara for 
 medical attention. A suit of armor said to have been worn by him on 
 this occasion, as well as during the Conquest of the Valley of Mexico, is 
 preserved in the Museo Nacional at Mexico City. 
 
164 Route 35. GUADALAJARA Climate. 
 
 'patios and balconies recall memories of the romantic cities 
 of Southern Spain. 
 
 The Climate is almost perfect, and the city is rapidly be- 
 coming known as a sort of open-air sanitarium for tubercular 
 patients. Between Sept, and June the atmosphere is excep- 
 tionally dry and its effect on the nerves is beneficial. The 
 climate has been aptly described as “June air with October 
 touches.” April and May are a trifle warm, but the remainder 
 of the year is delightful. The mean summer temperature is 
 73° Fahr. The word “ winter ” is merely a courteous definition 
 applied to thoroughly enjoyable sunny days fringed with a 
 tang of light frost. The houses are chimneyless, the trees 
 never entirely lose their verdure, and the beautiful, semi-tropi- 
 cal flowers bloom perennially. The song-birds, of which there 
 are many, never desert the city. The July and August sunsets 
 are almost as lovely as the gorgeous productions of the Cochin- 
 China and the Philippine coasts. During the rainy season 
 (June -Sept.) the city is visited occasionally by electrical 
 storms of great spectacular beauty. 
 
 The blue sky suddenly becomes overcast, dense cloud-billows race up 
 from the south, reach out toward the east and form imposing sky- 
 pictures which are torn into shreds by the winds, to re-form again and 
 again. The vigorous and prolonged thunder becomes deafening, the 
 winds blow with increasing fury, long ribbons of vivid and terrifying 
 lightning ( relampagueo ) rend the heavens and not infrequently shatter 
 church spires and flag-poles. Then from out the black maelstrom of 
 seething clouds dart crystal rods of rain that slant through the air and 
 beat up miniature whirlwinds of dust where they impinge on the earth. 
 Soon the streets run rivulets of brown water w T hich promptly change into 
 torrents and then into spreading lakelets — spume-fringed, and which 
 swirl and bubble in an effort to escape through the congested sewers. 
 For an hour or more the rainfall is tremendous. Presently a winsome 
 eye of blue sky peers timidly and beguilingly through the plunging cloud 
 wrack. A brisk perfume-laden breeze whips up from the south; the 
 streets dry rapidly and the aerial storm-remnants are whisked away 
 beyond the horizon. Then the conciliatory sun comes smilingly forth; 
 the rotund rain-drops cease their methodical search for the centre of 
 gravity along the telephone wires, the tear-drenched orange trees in the 
 deep green vlaza glisten like the eyes of a child whose grief has been sud- 
 denly changed to joy, and W ala-l-H aj arah basks languidly and serenely 
 beneath an incomparable lapiz-lazuli sky which stretches like an un- 
 ruffled sea from horizon to horizon. 
 
 The Plaza Mayor, El Palacio, La Catedral, etc. 
 
 The Main Plaza, — called also Plaza Mayor , P. de la Con- 
 stitution and P. de Armas (comp. p. liii and PI. C, 4), — a 
 garden-like promenade near the geographical centre of the 
 city, is flanked by the Palacio de Gobierno, the Cathedral, 
 and by picturesque portales. A line of prolific orange trees 
 (naranjos) ring the outer edge of the square and in the centre 
 are parterres of flowers and a music kiosk, where the military 
 band plays from 7 to 9 p. m. During these hours the spot is the 
 most animated and attractive in the city. A strip of pavement 
 between the curb and the outer tier of seats is reserved for 
 
El Palacio a 
 
 GUADALAJARA 
 
 35. Route. 1G5 
 
 the lower classes, who obey the local custom and do not pro- 
 menade or mingle in the inner lines. The big hats and bright 
 sarapes of the pelados, the dainty mantillas and Parisian 
 toilettes of the ladies, and the charro costumes of some of 
 the men (usually rancheros or members of the class fond of 
 horseback riding) form a pleasing picture which visitors should 
 not fail to see. 
 
 The men of the lower class formerly wore sombreros of such unwieldy 
 proportions — hats with brims so wide that they had to be doffed or 
 tipped to one side when the owner entered a street-car or any other place 
 with a narrow door — that the local government considered them a 
 public nuisance and imposed a tax (effective in Jan., 1908) of one peso 
 for each ten centimeters of brim above a certain width. It has had the 
 effect of making narrower brim hats more fashionable. 
 
 In the arcades or portales which flank the E. and N. sides 
 of the plaza (and which are named for the revolutionary 
 heroes Bravo , Guerrero , Abasolo , Morelos , Aldama, Mata - 
 moros, Allende , Mina and Hidalgo) and which continue quite 
 around the square to the N., the traveller wall find much to 
 interest him among the picturesque groups about the little 
 stalls or puestos where sweetmeats, strawberries, native drinks, 
 cigarettes and whatnot are sold. On feast days many country 
 folks come here to sell their home-made w r ares. The mixed 
 drinks should be regarded with a prudent eye by the stranger 
 unacquainted with Mexican microbes, and it should be re- 
 membered that pornographic post-cards are not admitted 
 to the government mails. 
 
 The architectural differentiation of Guadalajara, by no means 
 so marked as that of Puebla, is notable in certain aspects. 
 Perhaps the handsomest edifice in the city — certainly one of 
 the most attractive of its class in the Republic — is the 
 
 Government Palace, or Palacio de Gobierno (on the N. 
 side of the Plaza de Armas, PI. C, 4), celebrated as an excellent 
 example of the Churrigueresque (p. cxxxii) blended with the 
 Rococo and applied to a secular building. The main entrance, 
 in the centre of the facade, is strikingly handsome. The 
 massive piers with their diapered squares suggest the Norman 
 order. The Corinthian capitals support “an element of 
 positive beauty in the statues of War and Peace, thoroughly 
 expressive of their subjects and finely contrasted in sentiment.” 
 Twenty-one massive key-stones, with glyphs like the chan- 
 nels of a Doric pier, surround the entrance and form the arch. 
 Above is a mass of Ionic enrichments, a small platform en- 
 closed by an iron reja, then a smaller doorway (a replica of 
 the one below) beneath a line of heavy dog-tooth moulding, 
 and a splendid arch flanked by intricate carvings. Imme- 
 diately above this is the handsome clock-tower, richly adorned 
 and surmounted by the flag-staff ( asta del pabellon) and two 
 cuirasses and helmets. Similar ornaments run the length 
 of the building. Ionic pilasters flank the lateral doorways 
 
166 Route 85. 
 
 GUADALAJARA 
 
 Cathedral. 
 
 (all of which are good examples of wood carving), handsome 
 rejas bar the windows, and a line of graceful iron balconies 
 (of native workmanship) adorn the upper story. The general 
 effect of the finely proportioned building is unusually pleas- 
 ing. A walk quite around the structure will repay the lover 
 of quaint and massive architecture. Note the curious gar- 
 goyles. The blending of the Spanish-Moorish with the Hellenic 
 architecture is strikingly effective. The general martial air of 
 the building, the loopholes and fortress-like windows, testify 
 to its ability to withstand a siege. 
 
 The interior patios are large and clean. A handsome stair- 
 way leads to the government offices on the upper floor. The 
 private office (despacho particular) of the Governor ( gober - 
 nador) is adorned with portraits of former governors of Jalisco. 
 The original building was erected by the Spaniards in 1643 
 and cost $99,000. Since then many improvements have been 
 added. The structure was badly shaken by a powrier explosion 
 in Jan., 1859. Here Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla sketched out and 
 wrote part of his famous Declaration of Independence. On 
 March 12, 1858, Benito Juarez narrowly escaped assassination 
 here at the hands of a reactionary revolutionist. Here also 
 on Nov. 11, 1889, General Ramon Corona , one of the sanest 
 and best governors the state ever had, died from knife wounds 
 inflicted by a lunatic. A handsome statue to this enlightened 
 governor stands in the Jardin de San Francisco. The calle 
 which flanks this jardin was named in his honor. 
 
 Perhaps the most interesting example of ecclesiastical 
 architecture in Guadalajara is the old convent Church of 
 Santa Monica (PI. C, 4), on the street of the same name, 
 in the W. portion of the city. The longitudinal facade is 
 highly ornamented in a sort of elaborate Plateresque y intri- 
 cately carved in many designs. The big statue, now in a ruin- 
 ous state, of San Cristobal, at one comer, is 17th cent, work; 
 as indicated by the double-headed eagle that appears in two 
 places. The facade of this old ch. is one of the “sights” of 
 Guadalajara. The two entrances lead into the single nave, 
 which is smaller than the exterior would indicate. The white 
 and gold altars which adorn the sides of the nave are modem. 
 The interior contains nothing of particular interest to the 
 traveller. 
 
 The Cathedral (PI. C, 4), the head of the score or more 
 Catholic churches of the city, was begun July 31, 1571, and 
 completed and consecrated Feb. 19, 1618; the corner-stone 
 was laid by the Ilustrisimo Bishop Ayala. The edifice was 
 much injured by the severe earthquake of 1750; that of 1818 
 destroyed the facade and threw down the towers — which 
 were rebuilt to be again demolished 31 years later and from 
 a similar cause. 
 
 Owing to the reconstruction necessitated by these earth- 
 
Cathedral. 
 
 GUADALAJARA 
 
 35. Route. 167 
 
 quakes, and to the ecclesiastical rage for renovations — which 
 oftentimes produces lamentable results — the structure re- 
 presents such a medley of incongruous and irreconcilable 
 architectural features that it has been the object of much 
 caustic criticism by lovers of the fine old Spanish structures 
 which dot the Republic. The original idea of the builders 
 seems to have been to erect a Gothic pile, but during numer- 
 ous reconstructions Tuscan, Arabic, Mudejar, Corinthian, 
 Byzantine, Doric and other enrichments have been added; 
 the present structure is therefore a somewhat unique, though 
 not wholly inharmonious, blend of many orders. Hardly a 
 single architectonic phase is wanting. Albeit the assembling 
 of these various styles produces a somewhat fantastic result, 
 with a tendency to over-elaboration, the non-critical traveller 
 will admit that its very extravagance is interesting, as its 
 exuberant development recalls certain of the sumptuous 
 pagan temples of India and of the Far East. It is perhaps the 
 most striking example in Mexico of the Transitional Style 
 as applied to a prominent cathedral. 
 
 The huge structure is so hemmed in on three sides that it is 
 difficult to find a point whence its immense proportions can 
 be studied to advantage. It flanks the Plaza Mayor and has 
 two side entrances leading therefrom; the main entrance, 
 with three sets of massive doors, faces the Avenida Alcalde , 
 while another door, used chiefly as an exit, opens onto the 
 Jar din de la Soledad. The Spanish-Moorish section, which 
 overlooks the plaza and the Palacio de Gobierno , is where the 
 sacristdn dwells. The building is in the form of a parallel- 
 ogram 200 ft. long by 110 ft. wide, with a fine new cupola 
 (above the Basilica) completed in 1908. The large leaded 
 glass windows, of the 12 Apostles, in this superstructure, 
 are the work of Mexican artisans. The yellow and white tiles, 
 in the Mudejar style, wrought in the Greek key-pattern which 
 adorns the striking cimborio, recall some of the gorgeous 
 domes of Persia and Hindustan. 
 
 The pyramidal Byzantine Towers which dominate the city 
 and are visible for miles around, are 200 ft. high and they 
 command attention by being quite unlike anything in Mexico. 
 Lines of incandescent lamps lead along the ridges to the pin- 
 nacles, and when illuminated the effect is strikingly attractive 
 — if somewhat theatrical. The view from the towers is very 
 fine and should not be omitted (small fee to the sacristdn). 
 The panorama embraces San Pedro , many suburban towns 
 and an extensive sweep of the pleasant campiha. In one of 
 the towers is a bell, La Campanita del Correo , which is struck 
 only on momentous occasions. The dome was once shattered 
 by lightning, and for many years thereafter, at the approach 
 of thunderstorms, another bell, San Clemente , was rung to 
 ward off the danger. After this bell had failed several times 
 
168 Route 35, GUADALAJARA Cathedral . 
 
 of its purpose, the ch. was equipped with the lightning-rods of 
 the heretics. 
 
 A handsome iron reja of native workmanship encloses the 
 spacious atrium. The fagade is decorated in brown and white 
 tints. The great doors, which are swung on huge pivots let 
 into the stone floor and the upper cross-beams in the singular 
 fashion mentioned at p. 444, and wdiich are studded with a 
 multiplicity of iron bosses and knockers (Sp. llamadores; Ara- 
 bic aldabones), are interesting examples of early craftsmanship. 
 Above the central entrance is the inscription : Esta Iglesia cate- 
 dral fue agregadaen 15 de Junio de 1862 a la Basilica Later an- 
 ense de Roma — this cathedral church w-as added to the Roman 
 Lateran Basilica June 15, 1862. (The See of Guadalajara was 
 founded July 31. 1548, under the invocation of the Holy Vir- 
 gin and the Apostle Saint James. It was elevated to an Arch- 
 bishopric Mch. 16, 1863.) The niched figures are those of the 
 Apostles ; the basso-relievo group in the pediment represents a 
 scene from the Assumption of the Virgin. Surmounting this 
 fan-shaped pediment is a little clock-tow'er, sentinelled by the 
 needle-like spires. The entire decoration of the facade dates 
 from 1907. 
 
 The ornate, rather than artistic, Interior, with its im- 
 mense nave and flanking aisles, decorated in white and gold, 
 is very striking: the notable lack of Churrigueresque and 
 Baroque fitments — so much a part of most Mexican cathe- 
 drals — makes it resemble a foreign church. The customary 
 tall gilded retable is lacking behind the high altar, but its 
 absence is made up by the fine coro, wdiich is usually flooded 
 with opalescent light from the great leaded glass window's 
 high above. Ten massive engaged columns with gilded Doric 
 capitals divide the nave from the broad aisles, and from them 
 and their corresponding pilasters spring the many graceful 
 and pointed arches w r hich support the triple- vaulted ceiling. 
 The nave w r as formerly intercepted by the choir — customary 
 in Spanish cathedrals — but it w T as removed in 1827. The 
 great organ in its loft above the W. entrance is too large for 
 its setting and it imparts a queer look to that end of the ch. 
 The inscription along the base of the loft advises that “this 
 temple w r as consecrated Oct. 22, 1716.” The small Greek 
 crosses in gilt frames, which hang against the piers and pilas- 
 ters, represent the 14 Stations of the Cross. The carved con- 
 fessionals which stand at various points carry inscriptions, 
 certain of them to the effect that “Your sins will be pardoned 
 and you will go in peace” — Vuestros pecados seran per don- 
 ados e ireis en paz. Above all the chapels and altars are me- 
 dallion-like paintings of allegorical subjects. 
 
 The Chapel of la Soledad, first on the r. as we enter, contains 
 a pasillo w^hich leads into the Basilica. The next chapel, dedi- 
 cated to Santa Teresa , is followed by the Capilla de San Juan 
 
Sacristy. 
 
 GUADALAJARA 
 
 35. Route. 169 
 
 Nepomuceno. None of these are interesting. The next, Chapel 
 of La Purisima Virgen, is the finest in the ch. An inscription 
 above the entrance advises that it was dedicated Dec. 8, 1877. 
 An iron grill, usually closed and locked, separates it from 
 the aisle, and the entrance is guarded by two seated figures 
 of the Doctors of the Church. High above is a handsome 
 painting representing Christ driving out the money changers. 
 This picture, now so high up that a glass is necessary to inspect 
 it carefully, once hung above the W. entrance; to fit the pres- 
 ent space it w~as cut down and the date and the painter’s 
 name were cut off. 1 The allegorical paintings which flank the 
 main altar are without merit. The side altars are dedicated 
 to San Pascual and S. Pedro. The tombs of former Bishops 
 of the diocese are good examples of Mexican sculpture. 
 
 The Carrancista soldiers used the Cathedral as a stable dur- 
 ing the revolution, and the marks of their occupation are visi- 
 ble in many places in the interior. 
 
 The coffin at the r. of the posillo to the sacristy contains 
 the body of Bishop Garatito, who died abo.ut 200 years ago. 
 
 We enter the Sacristy through the pasillo at the r. of the 
 presbytery. The pictures on the walls of the passageway are 
 of early bishops and canons of the ch. The huge, carved wood 
 door opening into the sacristy is usually locked, but a small fee 
 will gain one ready admission. The large painting in a massive 
 gilt frame which fills the end of the room is a copy (by Felipe 
 Castro) of Rafael’s La Santisima Trinidad , now in Rome. 2 
 The fine old stained estante, which contains the ch. vestments, 
 dates from 1700, and is made of cedarwood from the Barranca 
 de Oblatos. Within the Sacristy is the most precious possession 
 of the Cathedral (unless hidden to prevent its falling into revo- 
 lutionary hands), Bartolome Esteban Murillo’s Assumption 
 of the Virgin. On request the sacristan will provide an opera- 
 glass for a closer inspection of it. In point of color and fresh- 
 ness this picture is perhaps superior to any of the pictures by 
 this master, in American collections, and it is the equal of many 
 of those distributed throughout Europe. It is a beautiful 
 example of Murillo’s best manner, and the longer the enthusi- 
 ast looks upon it the stronger becomes its attractiveness. Even 
 the ordinary superficial sightseer cannot fail to be impressed by 
 the solemn beauty of this canvas. The tender loveliness of the 
 Virgin’s face and the wistfulness of the great eyes are very 
 striking. Art-lovers who have studied the almost priceless 
 
 1 This is a common form of vandalism in Mexican churches. Many 
 splendid paintings are found without name or date, and the ch. records 
 make no mention of them. The fine picture in the sacristy of the Morelia 
 Cathedral, described at p. 204, is another instance in point. 
 
 2 In the original the holy founders of different religious orders stand 
 near the foot: while in the copy two of these have been replaced by 
 figures of Santo Tomas de A quino and San Bernardo. The general effect is 
 injured by the flood of light which pours upon the picture. 
 
170 Route 35. GUADALAJARA Sacristy. 
 
 paintings by this master in the Madrid Gallery have perchance 
 been haunted by the absorbing charm of his Madonnas — 
 paintings in which he excelled. Their faces wear an indefinable 
 attraction which differentiates them from all others. The 
 ineffable mystery of the liquid, melancholy eyes, the tender, 
 almost visibly trembling mouth, and the beauty of the gen- 
 eral expression places them in a class apart. Murillo’s women 
 seem to belong more to the 20th century than to that in which 
 the great artist lived and painted and loved, and this is, 
 mayhap, why the present day devotees love them best. The 
 Murillo faces are so distinctive that a glimpse of one usually 
 enables the art -lover to recognize, at a glance, all the others. 
 The “ immortal ray of the soul ” shines through the eyes of his 
 Madonnas in a way that thrills the observer and impresses 
 the picture on his mind. In art Velasquez is spoken of as an 
 eagle, Murillo as an angel. The latter is thought to combine 
 the truth of Velasquez with the vigorous effects of Ribera, 
 the harmonious transparency of Titian, and the brilliant 
 vivacity of Rubens. Spain gave him the name of Pintor 
 de las Concepciones (painter of the Conceptions) because he 
 was insuperable in the art of representing the divine idea. 
 
 When Spain was in the throes of the Peninsular War it was hard- 
 pushed for funds with which to repel Naooleon I and his invading army. 
 Mexico, along with the other Crown Colonies, was drawn upon, and 
 Nueva Galicia (and Guadalajara in particular) responded promptly and 
 nobly to the appeal for help. The church corporation was indefatigable 
 in its efforts to raise money, and many of the silver candelabra and other 
 ornaments were melted and converted into cash to swell the King’s 
 war-chest. As an evidence of his gratitude the Spanish monarch pre- 
 sented the church with this Murillo, which hung for many years on the 
 walls of the Escorial. During the French invasion of Spain (1812) Mar- 
 shal Soult appropriated, from the Seville Cathedral, a famous Assump- 
 tion by Murillo, which now hangs in the Louvre Gallery, it having been 
 purchased bv the French Govt, from his heirs, for 615,000 francs. During 
 the French Intervention of Mexico (1S67) an effort was made to send this 
 picture to France. Finding the clericals too wary to admit of its being 
 stolen. Napoleon III offered §40,000 for it, which offer was refused. 
 Attempts were then made to secure the picture by fair means or foul, and 
 to prevent its expatriation it was hidden in a secret niche in the wall, 
 where it remained for ten years. The French troops sought it in vain. 
 Almost fabulous sums have been offered for this canvas, the authenticity 
 of which is unquestioned. 
 
 Leaving the sacristia we cross the pasillo , ascend (on the r.) 
 a short flight of stone steps and enter the coro. The silleria , 
 of fine Cocobolo wood (from the forests of Tepic), contains 
 22 seats in the lower tier (for the capellanos ), 30 in the upper 
 (for Los canonigos ) and a central one for the Archbishop, or 
 an equally high ch. dignitary. The sillas are beautifully 
 polished and massive, and are carved after Flemish designs. 
 The stained-glass windows above are of French workman- 
 ship. Most of those in the body of the church are from the 
 Mexican house of Pellandini. The date and inscription below 
 the Archbishop’s seat refer to the four marble figures (Saints 
 
Basilica . 
 
 GUADALAJARA 
 
 85. Route. 171 
 
 Mark, Luke, Matthew and John) which were brought from 
 Italy for the adornment of the Altar Mayor. The paintings 
 of these santos , in the triangle of the dome above the siller ia, 
 are the work of the Mexican painter Villasenor. On the r. 
 and 1. walls above the coro are two curious paintings (medi- 
 ocre) of the dead Cristo. The striking picture at the 1. above 
 the first railing, La Resurreccion, is the work of Felipe Castro , 
 as is also the companion piece, La Adoracion de los Reyes. 
 A small picture of the Virgin in a silver frame occupies the 
 place of honor at the rear of the tabernacle — a simple affair 
 adorned with four marble figures of the Apostles. The curious 
 old facistol, studded with brass nails and inlaid with tortoise- 
 shell ( carey ) and mother-of-pearl ( madreperla or nacar), con- 
 tains some quaint and crude parchment books in the Latin. 
 It is surmounted by a bronze Cristo crucified. 
 
 The Altar Mayor, once celebrated for its rich silver orna- 
 ments, worth many thousands of pesos, and which disap- 
 peared during the revolution of 1860, is provided with a small 
 altar on its four sides, from which mass can be said simul- 
 taneously. The four figures of the Evangelists — each with 
 a bronze name-plate — are of Carrara marble and are the work 
 of Genovese sculptors; they are admittedly the finest sculp- 
 tures of their class in Mexico. The communion altar-rail 
 ( comulgatorio ) is of massive bronze. The small organ above 
 the coro is used in the daily service; that in the organ loft, 
 above the W. entrance, is used only on special occasions. 
 
 When the morning sun floods the coro and the presbiterio 
 with a wealth of light filtered through the colored glass win- 
 dows, the effect is beautiful. A series of wheel and square 
 windows, above the lateral altars, admits light to the main 
 body of the ch. 
 
 Descending from the coro (on the r.) we come to the altar 
 dedicated to Santa Rosa de Lima (comp. p. 285). Between 
 this and the next altar, San Miguel, is the sarcophagus of 
 the 3d Bishop of Guadalajara, Don Francisco Mendiola, 
 whose body, so the report goes, is uncorrupted by time and 
 is as perfectly preserved as when it was laid away more than 
 three centuries ago. It is never shown. 
 
 The next altar is dedicated to Nuestra Senora de Gua- 
 dalupe; between this and the altar of El Sefior San Jose 
 is the exit to the Jardin de la Soledad. The altar following is 
 dedicated to San Clemente. The last on this side of the ch. 
 contains a Cristo Crucificado and is dedicated to El Sen or 
 de las Aguas. Hard by is the entrance to the stairs leading 
 to the organ loft. 
 
 Diagonally across the street from the W. entrance to the 
 Cathedral is the old Palacio Arzobispal, or Bishop’s Palace, 
 with two quaint, squat domes and a fine patio. 
 
 The Basilica, or Sagrario, adjoining the Cathedral on the 
 
172 Route 35. 
 
 GUADALAJARA 
 
 S., was begun in 1803, completed in 1843, and is at present be- 
 ing completely renovated. The inscription over the S. entrance 
 advises that the edifice is due to the piety and munificence 
 of the Illustrious Bishop of the diocese, Don Francisco Antonio 
 Alcalde (to whose memory a monument has been erected in the 
 atrium of the Santuario de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe , 
 p. 175), and that the inscription was placed there in 1839. 
 The door to the E. of this entrance leads to the dwelling of 
 the sacristan. Above the W. entrance is the Latin inscrip- 
 tion : Deus in Domibus Eius Cognoscetur. The statues crowning 
 the facade are Faith, Hope, and Charity. 
 
 The Church of San Francisco, facing the plaza and Jardln of 
 the same name, is one of the quaint landmarks and is gradually 
 falling beneath its weight of years. The old Baroque fagade 
 and the elaborately carved portal are good examples of early 
 Spanish craftsmanship. The twin domes — best seen from 
 the foot of San Francisco St. — are weather-beaten, but still 
 sturdy relics of the forceful architecture of the very earliest 
 times; for the ch. dates from 1550 and is, in consequence, one 
 of the oldest religious foundations in western Mexico. The 
 rusty towers with their clinging vegetation — the rendezvous 
 of many pigeons which nest in the crannies and preen them- 
 selves on the sunlit corners — are strangely out of keeping with 
 the modern aspect of the streets below. The campanarios are 
 crumbling to decay, and the thin, complaining notes of the one- 
 time melodious bells sound like prophetic voices from the shad- 
 owy past. These towers have, perchance, looked down upon 
 many a glittering array of Spanish knights, vice-regal trains, 
 and processions of cowied monks and pensive nuns, for Guada- 
 lajara was very religious in the early days, and the influence of 
 the Reform Laws was a long time taking root in the deep eccle- 
 siastical soil of the state. Its thronging memories and its 
 quaint architectural features are all that make this old ch. in- 
 teresting; save, mayhap, a remarkably lifelike polychrome 
 figure of the Christ crucified, which is a conspicuous feature of 
 the interior and which haunts the mind by its ghastliness. The 
 half-score or more medallion-like pictures of the interior are 
 without merit. Two of the entrances to the ch. lead in from 
 the Calle facing the Jardin, another from the side street. An 
 air of settled melancholy broods above the old structure. 
 
 The Jardin de San Francisco (midway between the rly. 
 station and the plaza) is a rose-embowered spot, with several 
 fountains and some fine trees. It extends quite across the 
 lower section of the street of that name and encloses one of 
 the most commanding monuments in the city, that erected 
 to the memory of General Ramon Corona. A fine bronze 
 figure of this general and one-time governor of Jalisco State 
 surmounts the stone base. The tablet on the N. face refers 
 to him as a benemerito of the state. The other tablets tell of 
 
GUADALAJARA 
 
 35. Route. 173 
 
 his manifold merits and of episodes in his military career. 
 Four bronze eagles stand at the corner of the pedestal, and 
 from the angles of the plinth rise clusters of electric lamps. 
 The coat-of-arms of the Repub. and of Guadalajara are con- 
 spicuous features in the adornments. 
 
 The touch of the mediaeval which characterizes many of 
 the Guadalajara churches is very apparent in the fagade and 
 walls of the old Church of our Lady of Aranzazu — one 
 of the four churches which once occupied the four corners of 
 the Jardin de San Francisco. The N. wall parallels the S. wall 
 of the San Francisco church (across the street) and faces the 
 jardin of that name. The curious old belfry totters beneath 
 the weight of the three or more centuries which brood over it. 
 The huge Churrigueresque retablo which stands behind the 
 altar mayor is perhaps the finest example of Churriguera’ s 
 work to be found in Guadalajara. A side altar in the same style 
 is unusually rich and quaint. Note the framed picture of 
 Christ, with false hair, velvet robes and other realistic adorn- 
 ments. After the promulgation of the Reform Laws this ch. 
 passed to private ownership. 
 
 El Carmen Church (PI. B, 4), in the W. district of the 
 city, on the W. side of the Plaza del Carmen (reached by 
 following the Calle Lopez Cotilla to San Cristobal , then turning 
 to the right), has an unprepossessing exterior of gray stone 
 with two ugly towers. The half-Roman, half-Byzantine in- 
 terior is interesting because of a fine nave and a high vaulted 
 ceiling adorned with allegorical scenes from the Scriptures. 
 The pictures are the work of native painters. That inside 
 of the dome, in a somewhat ruinous state, is by Pablo Valdez. 
 In the spandrels of the arches are idealized paintings of 
 Esther , Judith, Ruth and Maria — the sister of Aaron. Among 
 the several framed pictures which hang on the walls is a copy 
 of Murillo’s Assumption of the Virgin, the original of which 
 is in the Cathedral. The ch. is in the form of a Greek cross; 
 the chapels in the transepts are over-decorated and theatrical. 
 The sacristia, to the right of the altar mayor , contains a few 
 relics of local interest. In the large chapel to the left is a 
 representation of Calvary, a combination of mural painting 
 and high-relief work ; the crucified figure being somewhat im- 
 posing. The chief feature of the high altar is the polychrome 
 figure of the Virgen del Carmen (the work of Acuna), patroness 
 of the ch. Both the Virgin and the Child wear crowns of massy 
 gold with spurious jewels. The painting of the Virgin of 
 Dolores, in the sacristy, is attributed to Titian, but it is more 
 than likely the work of Jose Rodriguez Juarez (p. cl) or one 
 of his pupils : the church authorities consider it a masterpiece. 
 The unsigned painting of the Holy Family (one of many 
 hundreds in Mexico) is attributed to Jose Ribera. 
 
 On the N. side of the Plaza del Carmen is a government 
 
174 Route 35. 
 
 GUADALAJARA 
 
 barrack. Keeping this to the r. and continuing along the 
 CaUe de Benito Juarez we cross the intersecting Cattes del 
 Pavo and de Escobedo , to the large Jardin Juarez with many 
 orange trees. The Penitentiary (see below) extends along the 
 entire W. side. The plaza contains a red sandstone shaft sur- 
 mounted by a bronze bust of Benito Juarez . The inscription 
 on the marble tablet advises that the Ayuntamiento of Guada- 
 lajara erected the shaft to the memory of B. Juarez, Bene- 
 merito de las Americas. At the N. end of the plaza is a bronze 
 bust, placed by the Ayuntamiento, to commemorate the fame 
 of the progressive and humanitarian Don Antonio Escobedo , 
 one-time governor of the state. The street which parallels 
 the jardin on the E. is called Calle de la Penitenciaria. 
 
 The Penitentiary (PI. B, 4) is to Guadalajara what the 
 splendid, land-locked harbor of Sydney is to the people of 
 New South Wales. In SjMney the traveller is asked “How do 
 you like our harbor? ” In Guadalajara the query is: “Have 
 you been in our penitenciaria ? 5; Most folks class such an estab- 
 lishment in the same category with a cemetery and consider 
 it the “ last place to go to.’ 5 In Mexico things are different. 
 The Guadalajara people regard their fortress-like prison with 
 genuine affection. They enthuse over the massiveness of its 
 walls, the solidity of its cells, the severe but just regimen and 
 the extreme difficulty of escaping from it — cheerful informa- 
 tion and conducive to a careful treading of the alleged narrow 
 path of rectitude; at least while in the State of Jalisco. 
 The structure is of monumental proportions, the original 
 idea being apparently to make it large enough to accommodate 
 the entire population should the occasion arise. The form 
 is that of an oblong square, with a huge front patio and a large 
 Doric portico. The perfume of the orange blossoms which 
 thrive in the court seems strangely out of place in so lugu- 
 brious a structure. The 16 galleries ( galerias ) flanked by 800 
 strongly-barred cells ( celdas ) converge toward a central patio. 
 The patio in the rear serves as a cemetery. The high and 
 immensely solid walls are patrolled by armed guards and 
 lighted by arc lamps. Dante’s dictum when he entered Hell 
 should be inscribed above the main doorway. 
 
 The Santuario de San Jose de Gracia (PI. C, 4), facing 
 a pretty garden of the same name, with some brilliant flower- 
 ing trees and a bust of General Jose Silverio Nunez , is reached 
 by following (from the Cathedral) the Are. Alcalde which 
 skirts the Jardin and ch. of La Soledad. The edifice (com- 
 pleted Nov. 26, 1890) has a somewhat severe facade, a tower 
 and belfry of red sandstone, and a strikingly attractive dome 
 covered with blue and white tiles in the Mudejar style, and 
 visible from a great distance. Despite its austere exterior 
 this ch. has perhaps the most richly decorated interior, in the 
 modern style, in Guadalajara. An excess of gold-leaf in the 
 
GUADALAJARA 
 
 85. Route. 175 
 
 ornamentation imparts an appearance of ostentation, which 
 is relieved, however, by the elegant cimborio with 15 miniature 
 Corinthian columns with gilt capitals flanked by an equal 
 number of windows, and 8 small allegorical paintings, the 
 work of local artists. 
 
 The Altar Mayor , the central figure of which is the Sefior 
 San Jose, is a gorgeous affair — both striking and costly. The 
 small twin columns which flank the relicario are silver-plated 
 only. Near by are some picture-frames ( marcos ) containing 
 a host of votive offerings (tiny legs, arms, heads, bits of the 
 internal economy and whatnot) symbolic of cures due to the 
 miraculous intervention of the saint ( San Jose) to whom the 
 ch. is dedicated. Each of the “cured ones” presents the silver 
 symbol and 25 c. to the ch. and thus has his name enrolled 
 on the records. 
 
 The attractive old Church of Jesus Maria (P1.C,4), on the 
 corner of the Calles de Contreras Medellin and Morelos , has 
 quaintly carved stone figures in low relief above the entrances ; 
 a single tower, used as a belfry, and a well-proportioned 
 cimborio. The paved atrium contains a number of orange 
 trees. The iron reja which separates it from the street is of 
 local workmanship. Adjoining the ch. is an ecclesiastical 
 school. The chief object of interest within the ch. is a much 
 venerated figure of the Santisima Virgen del Rayo (Most Holy 
 Virgin of the Thunderbolt). According to tradition, on Aug. 
 18, 1807, at 2 p. m., during a terrific thunderstorm, the figure 
 of the Virgin was seen to change its position, smile, wink and 
 manifest a mundane interest in the affairs of the ch. — which 
 she saved from destruction (by lightning) by her intervention. 
 Because of this providential act and the many marvellous 
 cures performed since that date, she was crowned amid solemn 
 and glittering ceremonies a century later, Aug. 18, 1907 — 
 a somewhat tardy recognition. 
 
 The weather-beaten Church of San Felipe Neri (PL C, 4), 
 on the Calle de Contreras Medellin , is a wholesome and sturdy 
 example of the best type of architecture that characterizes 
 some of the Guadalajara churches. The half-obliterated in- 
 scription above the main entrance gives the date of the erec- 
 tion of the ch. as 1801, but this evidently refers to a renova- 
 tion, as the foundation is perhaps a century older. The fine 
 old facade, an adaptation of the Churrigueresque , is a striking 
 | example of the one-time magnificence of the structure. The 
 j interior is now shorn of its early adornments. The immense 
 pile is best seen from the side street. 
 
 The Santuario de Nuestra Sehora de Guadalupe (PI. C, 3) 
 
 > is reached by following the Avenida Alcalde from the Cathe- 
 I dral (£ M. North) to the unkempt Plaza de Hidalgo , with a 
 bronze monument to that hero. The dates 1753 and 1811, on 
 the pedestal, refer to Hidalgo’s birth and death. The church 
 
176 Route 35. 
 
 GUADALAJARA 
 
 flanks this plaza on the N. “It is a sturdy, wholesome ex- 
 ample of the early Guadalajara archi lecture at its best. It 
 has a facade that is unique, with its Carmelite belfries and 
 the remarkable buttresses that flank the portal. The new 
 dome, the work of Manuel Perez Gomez , in its modem French 
 elegance scarcely harmonizes with the Spanish simplicity of 
 the old structure.” The cruciform interior is over-decorated. 
 The central figure of the main altar is a copy of the painting of 
 the Virgin of Guadalupe, to whom the ch. is dedicated. The 
 date, 1531, refers to the Virgin’s apparition to Juan Diego 
 (comp. p. 394). The pictures on the w r alls are modern and by 
 local painters. Every inch of the interior (which was made 
 over in 1895) bears some sort of decoration, not, unfortun- 
 ately, in the best taste. The numerous polychrome roods 
 and Cantos are of Spanish origin. Eight of these figures alone 
 are grouped around the main altar. Above the entrance is an 
 inscription to the effect that the temple was consecrated May 
 24, 1893. The main structure dates from about 1550. A rude | 
 monument in the W. corner of the atrium stands to the 
 memory of Bishop Francisco Antonio Alcalde and dates from 
 1783. The various inscriptions refer to the erection of the 
 shaft, and to the virtues of the good man. 
 
 The Teatro Degollado (PI. D,4), in the Plaza de San 
 Agustin (in the rear of the Palaeio de Gobierno), one of the 
 most imposing edifices in the Repub., was begun in 1855 and I 
 completed in 1866, during the administration of Governor 1 
 Degollado. The handsome Corinthian portico and the oviform £ 
 rotunda with its attractive piers are noteworthy. The interior I 
 has a seating capacity of 3,000 and is more impressive by its | 
 size than by the beauty of its enrichments. 
 
 The Templo de San Agustin (PI. D, 4), facing the Degollado I 
 Theatre, is a time-stained edifice with a huge single nave from i 
 which springs a quaint groined arch of 17th century workman- j; 
 ship. The chapels, altars, and life-size saints are not particu-p 
 larly interesting. The massiveness which is the general charac- 1 
 teristic of Guadalajara architecture is exemplified in this, I 
 and others of the older churches. This trait is largely ascribed I 
 to the violence of the earthquakes that occasionally occur! 
 and which have been attended at times by some destruction.; 
 A Colegio de la Inmaculada Concepcion joins the ch. on the E.l 
 
 Diagonally across from the rear of the Degollado Theatre is gj 
 the old (PI. D,4) Templo de Santa Maria de Gracia (two I 
 entrances) with an elaborate cdtar mayor directly beneath the I 
 cimborio. Opposite the W. entrance, let into the wall, is a 
 recess with a barred door. A sanguinary and utterly sadden- I 
 ing figure of Christ stands behind the bars and gazes wistfullylj 
 out, like a maimed and forgotten criminal. 
 
 The old Indian Church of Mexicaltzingo (PI. C, 5), dedi-i 
 cated to San Juan Bautista , faces the Mexicaltzingo market fi 
 
GUADALAJARA 
 
 35. Route. 177 
 
 at the N. end of the city and is the choice of the natives of 
 that barrio. The ch. is a huge, weather-beaten structure, with 
 a vast atrium. The neighborhood is not distinguished for 
 pulchritude, and travellers will scarcely be repaid for the time 
 spent in visiting it. 
 
 There are many other churches of minor note in Guadalajara, 
 but only the traveller with ample time and a taste for the 
 bizarre in architecture, and interior adornment, would care 
 to spend the time visiting them. Besides, not all of them are 
 entirely free from microbes. 
 
 The Bull-Ring (comp. p. xcvii) stands near the Hospicio 
 (see below) and has for its patrons the fringe of society. 
 
 The Biblioteca P^blica del Estado (state library) con- 
 tains several thousand volumes chiefly in the Spanish lan- 
 guage. The antiquary will find more old documents of merit 
 in the library of the Palacio Municipal at Mexico City. 
 
 El Hospicio (Hospice), an imposing building with a large 
 portico supported by six massive Tuscan columns, stands 
 at the top of the Calle del Hospicio (PL D, 4), 8 squares E. 
 of the Gov’t Palace. A tram-line runs from the plaza , fare 6 
 cts. Reached on foot in ten minutes. A card of admission 
 (obtainable through the Consul) is necessary. Passing 
 through the portico we reach a fine Moorish patio flanked 
 by cloister-like corridors. On the left is the church ( Iglesia 
 del Hospicio) in the form of a Greek cross surmounted by a 
 handsome cupola visible from many parts of the city. Sur- 
 mounting this cupola is a squat, “home-made” statue of 
 Mercy scarcely in keeping with the style of the edifice. In the 
 rear of the church is a beautiful garden of flowers and fruit 
 trees. Within the hospicio walls are 21 other gardens, all 
 carefully tended and redolent of semi-tropical flowers. The 
 general plan of the enclosure is that of a vast parallelogram 
 610 ft. long by 560 wide. The institution (very commendable) 
 was founded by Juan Ruiz Cabanas in 1803. Besides being 
 a refuge and home for the aged and the orphan, it is a sort of 
 training-school for those girls who wish to occupy their time 
 profitably. They are taught to make lace, fans, embroidery, 
 wax-flowers and the like. Some of the finest of the Mexican 
 drawn-linen is made here by the deft fingers of orphan children. 
 It is not retailed at the Hospicio , however, but is usually con- 
 tracted for by high-class dealers in antiques. 
 
 The handsome bronze Monument to Hidalgo, at the S. end 
 of the Calzada de la Independencia (PL D, 5), was erected in 
 1910 to commemorate El centenario de la proclamacion de la 
 independencia y abolicion de la esclavitud (the centenary of the 
 proclamation of independence and the abolition of slavery). 
 The crowning object is a heroic figure of Hidalgo leading the 
 Mexicans to liberty. A number of minor figures embellish the 
 shaft and zocle; all symbolical of the greatest event in Mexican 
 history. 
 
178 
 
 EXCURSIONS FROM GUADALAJARA 
 
 The Laguna del Agua Azul (blue- water), a lakelet in the j 
 centre of a half-wild park in the outskirts of the city (PI. C, 6), 1 
 is reached by tram-cars which leave the Portal Hidalgo every I 
 20 min. during the day. Children thoroughly enjoy this 1 
 recreation ground. There is good music (sometimes), the air 1 
 is pure and the scenery attractive. The lake is shallow and 
 practically currentless and there are boats at 75 c. the hr. 
 Picturesque little water-ways wind in and out of the marshes 
 and the islets contain water-fowl and flowers. When unde- 
 filed the waters reflect the blue sky and take on a light indigo 
 color — hence the name. 
 
 Excursions from Guadalajara. 
 
 The lover of handsome old churches will be amply re- ! 
 paid for the short excursion to the small town of Zapopan, 
 reached in about 40 min. by the tram-cars (fare 16 c.) which 
 leave every 20 minutes from the W. side of the Cathedral. 
 The line runs out through the suburbs and passes through the 
 little village of Temajac. Soon after leaving Guadalajara 
 the spires of the Zapopan ch. are seen in the distance. The 
 cars stop in front of the atrium. The ch. is a finely preserved 
 specimen of 17th century work with an unusually attractive 
 facade in the Plateresque style. The shapely towers are elab- 
 orately ornamented ; the bases are plastered over with swal- 
 lows’ nests. The dome is decorated in the Mudejar style with 
 colored tiles formed into the Greek key-pattern. The cruciform 
 interior is chiefly notable for the fine marble altar in the apse. 
 
 The Barranca de Oblatos, a deep gorge on the Oblatos 
 Hacienda , 5 M. (to the S.-W.) from Guadalajara, is connected 
 with the city by a highway and a tram-line. It can be reached 
 on horseback in about 1 hr. from the hotel. The ride is a very i 
 pleasant one and on the outward and return journey a fine 
 view of the surrounding country can be had. Horses for the 
 round trip $2. Apply to the hotel manager. If you want the 
 animal at 6 a. m. order it for sharp five. 
 
 Tram-cars leave at stated intervals (usually 1 hr. apart) I 
 from the centre of the city, near the Palacio de Gobierno. 1 
 Fare. 2d cl. 20 c. each way. First cl. cars are run only on 
 special occasions. After passing the old garita (custom-house) I 
 on the edge of town the grade slopes upward and the line i 
 winds across cornfields, groves of castor-beans, scrubby 
 woodland and haciendas dotted with half-wild cattle. As we ] 
 near the end of the line the grade slopes downward, and j 
 we pass through some rough country with cacti and trees, i 
 A time-stained old Spanish bridge and a presa for collecting j 
 water are seen on the left as we climb the short ascent near 
 the barranca edge. The cars stop within a stone’s throw of 
 the gorge. The long, low building at the brink is used as a 
 
SAN PEDRO TLAQUEPAQUE 35. Rte. 179 
 
 dance-hall, and as a species of restaurant on dias de fiesta. 
 The view into the canon is magnificent ; recalling, in a way, 
 the Grand Canon of the Colorado (U. S. A.) at Bright Angel 
 Trail. Some huge rocks hang at a somewhat perilous angle 
 over the rift, which is verdure covered from the brink to the 
 turgid river which dashes through it two thousand or more 
 feet below. When the wind is from the right quarter the roar 
 of the stream is distinctly heard at the brink. Midway between 
 the river and the edge of the plateau are patches of cultivated 
 land which produce some of the fine fruits and vegetables seen 
 in the Guadalajara markets. As these miniature farms lie a 
 full thousand ft. lower than the plain, fruits will thrive which 
 refuse to mature above. Still further down, the climate is 
 more tropical, and the vegetation changes as we descend. 
 This gorge is a sort of cornucopia of riches for the city mar- 
 kets, which are usually stocked with delicious tropical fruits 
 grown within five miles of them, in a hole in the earth, 2,000 
 ft. lower than the plaza or the floor of the Cathedral ! 
 
 Near the river edge is an electric station which generates 
 power and distributes it to distant mills. The steel rope-way 
 to the left of the old storage building at the edge of the gorge 
 leads to this station and conveys supplies, machinery and 
 the like. Any of the peones will guide one to the bottom and 
 to the banks of the Lerma River , which here is known as the 
 Santiago (St. James). The toilsome ascent scarcely repays 
 one for the trip. Perpetual summer reigns at the bottom, 
 tropical flowers are always in bloom, and the cares and per- 
 plexities of the work-a-day world are as remote as the aver- 
 age mortal wishes they might be. But cares come here in the 
 guise of fierce thunderstorms, and as the thunder crashes and 
 echoes against the canon walls, this sound, and the roar of the 
 river, are awe-inspiring. 
 
 Further country ward is another and yet larger barranca , 
 reached through the village of Zapopan. 
 
 San Pedro Tlaquepaque, or San Pedro (St. Peter), a pic- 
 turesque suburban town (pop. 4,500) poised on the summit 
 of a hill 5 kilom. E. of Guadalajara , and connected therewith 
 by a tram-line, is the favorite summer retreat of the well-to-do 
 citizens, many of whom possess residences there. Tranvias 
 leave the Plaza Mayor at intervals of about every 20 min. 
 during the day; time \ hr., fare 12 c. The cars pass out of the 
 city through the huge gateway of the ex-garita of San Pedro 
 — a relic of the time not long past when all Mex. cities had 
 suburban custom-houses and the products of the country, 
 and of other states, were taxed before they could enter. The 
 alcabales of the State of Jalisco were abolished by the enlight- 
 ened Governor Corona. 
 
 Some very friable pottery in quaint designs is made (comp, 
 p. lxxiv) at San Pedro. Its exceeding frailty makes great care 
 
180 Rte. 35. SAN PEDRO TLAQUEPAQUE 
 
 necessary in packing it for transportation. A native sculptor, 
 one Pan Duro , is very adept in catching facial expressions, 
 and one can have a fairly good likeness of one’s self made to 
 order in half an hour. Prices vary and bargaining is necessary. 
 
 During the summer season San Pedro is filled with happy 
 people on their vacation. Through the open doors of the i 
 houses one catches glimpses of sunlit patios, tinkling foun- j 
 tains, trees filled with ripening pomegranates, and a wealth 
 of blooming tropical flowers. Picnics, burro-parties, dances j 
 and serenades are the order of the day, and the stilted, rigid j 
 etiquette of Guadalajara is left behind. In the soft evening 
 twilight the rich marchante and the dignified hacendado frater- 
 nize, draw their chairs out to the curb, and there, with feet 
 propped against the curbstone or the facade of the houses, 
 they smoke and chat with their ambulating neighbors. Car - 
 mencita , Concepcion and Dolores w r alk bareheaded through the ] 
 narrow, quaint streets, an arm thrown around each other’s I 
 waists, and chattering volubly: laughing children play at hide | 
 and seek among the shadows of the great elms, cowled friars I 
 slip out of adjacent cloisters and pace to and fro to the rhythm j 
 of clicking rosaries, and a home-talent string band produces I 
 melodious music in the near-by plaza. The tranquillity of the ] 
 place is noticeable and pleasing. 
 
 The Santuario de la Virgen de la Soledad is a time- | 
 stained decrepit church a few minutes’ walk from the plaza. 1 
 From a side street we enter a small, unkempt garden where | 
 oranges, bananas, tube-roses and a host of thorny vines and 1 
 shrubs grow in riotous profusion. A moss-grown tile pave- I 
 ment of unquestioned antiquity leads inward from the gate- I 
 way, past some broken urns on tottering pedestals and by a J 
 large fountain filled with soapy-looking water, much relished 1 
 by the pelados because of its resemblance to pulque. All the J 
 sloe-eyed, chattering Rebeccas of the neighborhood ( vecindad) I 
 come hither for water and they carry it away in pottery jars I 
 poised on their heads just as did their Biblical prototypes I 
 centuries ago. In the ruinous tower above the facade hang a a 
 pair of bronze bells, cracked, weazened and querulous. Above 1 
 the door is the inscription: Indulgencia plenaria perpetuau 
 una vez al dia (perpetual plenary indulgence once a day). The 1 
 cramped interior is cruciform, with altars in the transepts with 9 
 copies of paintings of no merit. Near the altar of the left I 
 transept, in a glass case, is a figurine of the Virgin, with ear- B 
 nngs, a voluminous flounced petticoat, a bodice with puffed I 
 sleeves and a tin medal pending from her throat. The edges 1 
 of the petticoat are much soiled by the lips of Indian devo* I 
 tees. Hard by is a small clay image of Christ, the work of a )* 
 local potter. 
 
 On the return journey to Guadalajara a fine panorama of m 
 the valley, the city with its many church spires, and the dis- {■ 
 
STATE OF JALISCO 35. Route. 181 
 
 tant hills can be obtained from the front seat of the car. The 
 calzada along which the line runs is a busy highway flanked 
 by fine elms. 
 
 The State of Jalisco, one of the richest mining and agri- 
 cultural regions of the Mex. Repub. ; designated politically as 
 an Estado del Centro , with an area of 82,503 sqr. kiloms., and 
 a population of 1,153,891, lies on the great Central Plateau, 
 6,000 feet or more above the level of the sea, and is often 
 referred to as the Mexican Andalucia. The western half of 
 the state slopes away toward the Pacific Ocean and is marked 
 by a coast-line 500 kilom. in length. It is irregular in shape 
 and is bounded on the N. by Durango , Zacatecas , Aguas - 
 calientes and the Territorio de Tepic; on the E. by Guanajuato 
 and Michoacan ; on the S. by Michoacan and Colima , and on 
 the W. by the Pacific. For political purposes it is divided 
 into 12 cantone $, with a town or city of the same name at the 
 head of each. The capital, Guadalajara , is described at p. 161. 
 
 According to Indian tradition the entire region was in- 
 habited in the 6th century by the populous tribe of Nahoas. 
 The name Jalisco is derived from the Nahoa xalli = sand, and 
 ixco = above. The aboriginal name for the region was Tonala, 
 
 When Cortes had conquered Tenochtitldn and was looking 
 about him for other worlds to subdue, he learned from captive 
 Indians that western Mexico was unusually rich in silver-mines, 
 and hither he turned his attention. From his headquarters 
 in Coyoacan he despatched an expedition under the captains 
 Juan Alvarez Chico and Alonso de Avalos with instructions to 
 conquer the region. This then (1523) comprised the present 
 States of Colima, Jalisco , Zacatecas, Sinaloa, Aguascalientes , 
 and the Territorio de Tepic and was known as Chimalhuacan. 
 It was sparsely settled by Indians belonging to a tribe of 
 the same name, and was ruled over by a woman known as 
 Cihuapilla. The territory was so extensive that its subjuga- 
 tion was attended with many difficulties. That region nearest 
 Mexico City — the Province of Panuco — was soon reduced 
 and the commander sent his trusted lieutenant Gonzalo de 
 Sandoval to rule over it. In 1528 the King of Spain appointed 
 Nufio de Guzman governor of the conquered lands, and one 
 of the first acts of this executive was to push exploration west- 
 ward. But they found the Indians brave and warlike, with 
 the fate of the unhappy Aztecs fresh in mind. For several 
 years the advantage was first on one side then on the other, 
 and it was not until 1545 that Spanish rule was firmly estab- 
 lished. The conquerors called the new region El Reino de 
 Nuevo Galicia. (Compare Guadalajara, p. 161.) 
 
 Jalisco possesses a variety of climates; cold in the mountains, 
 temperate on the great table-land and hot on the coast. The 
 valley-lands are beautiful and productive; sugar-cane being 
 a staple. The E. section is called the granary of Mexico, from 
 
182 Rte. 35. 
 
 STATE OF JALISCO 
 
 Mines . 
 
 its enormous production of cereals. Many picturesque lakes 
 and some fine ravines of great length and depth are features 
 of certain regions. Rising from the plains are some celebrated 
 mountain peaks, notably Colima (described at p. 186), Tapolpa, 
 Tigre, and El Nevado (p. 187). The finest barrancas (gorges) 
 are Oblatos (p. 178), Atentique and Beltran , on the high-road 
 between Guadalajara and Colima City. 
 
 The largest river is the Rio Grande , known also as the Tolot- 
 Idn, the Santiago and the Lerma , which rises in the State of 
 Morelos, crosses Jalisco from S.-E. to N.-W., flows right 
 through the fine Lake of Chapala (p. 152), forms the splendid 
 Falls of Juanacatlan (described at p. 159) and after crossing 
 the Territorio de Tepic empties into the Pacific near the 
 Puerto de San Bias. On its journey of 624 miles from its 
 source it traverses several of the great barrancas for which 
 Jalisco is noted. Other rivers are the Piginto , Tux pan, 
 Ayuquila, Sihuatlan , Tomatldn , Tuito and a number of minor 
 streams which empty into the Santiago. Certain of these 
 streams are known by other names in the states wherein they 
 have their source. 
 
 The most important lake of the state (also the largest in 
 the Repub.) is Chapala , 20 M. S.-E. of Guadalajara and con- 
 nected therewith by an automobile road and a railway (Rte. 
 33). The Lagos de Magdalena, Cajijitlan, Tiazpanito, Union de 
 Tula , Quitupan and Zapotlan are beautiful sheets of water, 
 the home of myriad wild -fowl. 
 
 Jalisco is celebrated for its delicious fruits, some of which 
 grow, in the deep barrancas a thousand feet below the wheat- 
 producing plains. In the lower reaches of these great gulches 
 coffee, vanilla, rice, tobacco, dates, figs and many tropical pro- 
 ducts thrive. The oranges from the La Barca and Atotonilco 
 districts are prized for their sweetness and many carloads are 
 annually exported to the U. S. A. A specialty of the state 
 is Tequila liquor (p. lxxxii), produced by distillation from a 
 species of the Cactacese — el maguey de vino, or maguey mescal. \ 
 This plant is somewhat smaller than the pulque-producing 
 maguey, with narrow, bluish leaves. It thrives best on the 
 slopes of a mountain called El Cerro de Tequila, in the district 
 of that name. From this region, where the industry has reached 
 its highest development, millions of pesos worth of the product 
 is shipped to northwestern Mexico. Jalisco is highly mineralized 
 and there are so many mines that a special mining directory 
 ( A Handbook of the Mineral Resources of the State of Jalisco , 
 by T. Elliot Smith — The Jalisco Times, Guadalajara, 1905) [ 
 has been printed about them. Gold, silver, copper, iron, lead, 
 cinnabar, etc., are the chief products. Certain of the old 
 mines which were worked (and closed) centuries ago by their 
 discoverers are opened up from time to time and great wealth 
 taken from them. (Comp. Mines, p. lxxxviii.) 
 
GUADALAJARA TO MANZANILLO 
 
 183 
 
 36. From Guadalajara via Zapotlan, Tuxpan and 
 Colima to Manzanillo. 
 
 357 K. Trains arrive and depart from the Estacion de los Ferrocarriles 
 Nacionales de Mexico (Pl. C, 5). For fares, see p. xxxi. 
 
 Guadalajara, see p. 161. The train runs through the E. sub- 
 urb, flanks th eLago del AguaAzul (p. 178), and at once begins 
 its climb into the hills. Fine retrospective views of Guadala- 
 jara and of San Pedro Tlaquepaque (p. 179) poised on the 
 crest of a hill at the 1. As we traverse the ridges we get sweep- 
 ing views of wide, deep valleys hemmed in by blue-peaked 
 hills. A higher mountain range cuts the southern sky-line. 
 Most of the land is uncultivated, and shallow lakelets girt by 
 green bands of flowering lirio acuatico, and with many wild- 
 fowl on their waters, nestle in the lowlands. 8 K. La Junta. 
 
 We leave the main line (Guadalajara to Mex. City) and 
 trend toward the S. From 29 K. Tlajomulco the grade slopes 
 gently downward. 49 K. Mazatepec. The line sweeps broadly 
 round to the east (1.) and enters a region flecked with 
 wide, shallow lakelets — the haunt of many wild-fowl. The 
 Presa of Bella Vista is visible on the r. Farther on, between 
 69 K. Santa Ana, and 81 K. Santa Catarina, the road crosses 
 a shallow arm of the Lago de Atotonilco, with the Lago de 
 Zocoalco visible on the 1. 91 K. Zocoalco (4,500 ft.). 
 
 A few miles to the N. of the rly. line are the (uninteresting) Ruinas 
 de Camichin, and farther on are several fishing villages clinging to the 
 southern shore of the Lago de Chapala, described at p. 152. 
 
 102 K. Verdia. The long Lago de Sayula is seen on the 1. 
 and the railway line parallels its right bank to 136 K-. Sayula. 
 We ascend through the valley over a sharp incline and soon 
 reach 148 K. San Nicolas' (5, 17 3 ft.), the highest point on the 
 line, in a monotonous region. The railway skirts the shore 
 of the Lago de Zapotlan. 
 
 164 K. Zapotlan (5,000 ft.), the usual starting-point for 
 the ascent of the Volcan de Colima and El Nevado (seep. 186). 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). Bolade Oro — Central — Cosmovolita, 
 
 Am. PL 
 
 The present town contains nothing to interest the traveller. 
 The old town was almost destroyed (March 25, 1806) by an 
 earthquake which preceded a violent outburst from the vol- 
 cano of Colima. Upward of a thousand persons were killed 
 by the falling of the church walls. 
 
 About 4 K. to the S. the rly. crosses the divide at an eleva- 
 tion of 5,084 ft. on a two per cent maximum grade. Farther 
 on, almost at the base of the foothills, is 
 
 192 K. Tuxpan (3,800 ft.), once a populous Indian town. 
 The name is derived from a Nahuatl word — Tuchtlan , or 
 place of the rabbits. Many of the present inhabitants are de- 
 scendants of the Aztecs and they retain not a few of their 
 
184 Route 36. 
 
 TUXPAN 
 
 vicious attributes. Certain travellers have observed a pre- 
 ponderance of long-nosed people in the town, and this un- E 
 due nasal development is attributed to the habit the Indian 8 
 mothers have of pulling their babies’ noses, for two or three I 
 months after they are born, to prevent them from being pug- 9 
 nosed. The region roundabout is fertile and some of the more 5 
 industrious Indians possess small haciendas stocked with cattle, I 
 sheep and goats. 
 
 From Tuxpan the railway follows the course of the Tuxpan I 
 River to the near-by mountains, where the fine scenery begins. I 
 The splendid snow-capped Volcan de Colima and El Nevada I 
 (p. 186) are visible on the r. The rich Tuxpan valley stretches 1 
 away toward the N.-E. Broad fields of growing sugar-cane I 
 are features of the lowlands. The railway continues to ascend I 
 and affords many fine retrospects. The construction of the I 
 line from this point to the Pacific Slope is full of interest, and I 
 at certain places the scenery is superb. The engineering dif- I 
 faculties which had to be overcome in the construction of the I 
 rly. were many and complex. Between Tuxpan and Man - I 
 zanillo , a distance of 165 kilometers, there are 16 tunnels, I 
 and the road cost thirteen millions of pesos to build. 
 
 We enter the first tunnel, which is 497 ft. long. Just beyond I 
 it is a bridge 262 ft. long and 51 ft. above the river {Tuxpan). I 
 199 K. Quito. 
 
 From this point onward, the line crosses many deep barran - I 
 cos, or gorges, and is marked by tunnel after tunnel. The grade I 
 slopes sharply downward and the railway winds in and out I 
 between tall peaks with many arroyos and gorges radiating I 
 downward from their almost vertical sides. We pass the I 
 deep barranca of Atentique, thread a tunnel 196 ft. long, then 1 
 cross a bridge 1,412 ft. long. The expensive nature of the rly. I 
 work can be better understood when it is known that the two I 
 kilometros of track here cost $584,829.17. 
 
 Beyond 207 K. Platinar, in a wild and rocky landscape, we I 
 cross the Bejuco barranca (172 ft. deep) over a deck bridge I 
 188 ft. long and weighing 1S2,000 lbs. We cross the Colomos 1 
 barranca (146 ft. deep) over a deck bridge 141 ft. long. Tunnel, g 
 
 Just before reaching 218 K. Villegas (2,489 ft.) the line again 
 crosses the Tuxpan River over a lofty bridge 471 ft. long, 9 
 which spans the river 197 ft. above its bed. The bridge is one ji 
 of the finest on the line, weighs two million pounds and re- t 
 quired 102 days to put in place. The nearly vertical sides of 
 the barranca are of conglomerate rock. During the rainy season 9 
 a turbulent river plunges through the gorge with such force ji 
 as to move rocks weighing a hundred tons. Some of the hill- || 
 sides hereabout are covered with banana groves, and the huts % 
 ( chozas ) of the natives are enclosed by hedges of aloe. Hard 
 by Villegas are several fine sugar haciendas , notable among * 
 them the San Marcos. 
 
Cathedral. 
 
 COLIMA 
 
 86. Route. 185 
 
 The line curves round to the N. as it approaches Colima 
 (see below). As we descend from the great central plateau, 
 the scenery becomes more tropical. The train passes through 
 two tunnels (the first of which, with its one kilom. of track, 
 cost $364,760); then crosses the Cachipehuela bridge 111 ft. 
 above the bottom of the canon. The last of the three tunnels 
 which lie just beyond cost $229,500. 
 
 226 K. Tonilita (2,160 ft.). The town (pop. 6,387) lies some 
 20 kilom. toward the N.-W. on the slope of the Volcan de 
 Colima. Sugar is the chief product of the fine haciendas which 
 dot the region. Our line crosses the fine Quesaria bridge, 204 
 ft. above the bottom of the barranca , and the train passes 
 from Jalisco into the Stale of Colima. The Los Yugos bridge 
 is crossed 191 ft. above the gorge. At K. 231 the train crosses 
 the Santa Rosa bridge, the finest on the line ; the bridge itself 
 is 398 ft. long, the longest span is 154 ft., and it rests 279 ft. 
 above the bottom of the barranca. Tunnel. The train leaves 
 the Tuxpan country, climbs a slight grade to an eminence over- 
 looking the Colima Valley , crosses the Salado River and threads 
 two tunnels. Carpintero bridge, 391 ft. long and 170 ft 
 high. Tunnel. 
 
 238 K. Alzada (2,202 ft.), on the W. slope of the range. The 
 view toward the S. and the S.-W., over a rolling country that 
 falls away gradually toward the coast, is beguiling. The 
 ocenery reminds us that we have left the great central plateau 
 and have entered the semi-tropics. Broad sugar-plantations 
 stretch away before the delighted eye, and blooming huertas 
 attest the prevalence of soft, southern breezes and of tropical 
 luxuriance. The Huerta bridge, 285 ft. long and 63 ft. high, 
 is crossed. 247 K. Salvador (1,993 ft.). Corn and rice form the 
 staple agricultural products of the vicinity. The line crosses 
 the San Joaquin bridge, 455 ft. long and 106 ft. high; the 
 Cahas bridge, 107 ft. high, and the Estancia bridge, 49 ft. high. 
 255 K. Estancia (1,663 ft.). 
 
 260 K. Colima (1,538 ft.). Capital of the State of Colima, 
 with a pop. of 20,000, in a beautiful and fertile valley watered 
 by the Rio Colima. The town is the commercial centre of the 
 state, with tram-cars, a cathedral, two electric light plants 
 (one of which is supplied with power from a waterfall 20 kilom. 
 distant) and a theatre ( Santa Cruz) with a seating capacity of 
 1,500. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). Hotels California, Europa and Colima all near 
 the plaza : $2.50 to $3 Am. PI. Couriers meet all trains. Tram-car 
 from the station, 5 c. 
 
 The Cathedral, a picturesque structure with double towers and a fine 
 dome surmounted by a lantern and pierced by wheel windows, adjoins 
 the Palacio de Cobierno — a two-storied edifice with a clock-tower 
 facing the Plaza de Armas. On one side of this plaza (music on certain 
 evenings) are some very picturesque old portales. 
 
 The tram-cars of the Ferrocarril Urbano de Colima run to the suburban 
 village of Alvarez , noted for its beautiful palms and attractive houses. 
 
186 Route 36. EL VOLCAN DE COLIMA 
 
 The tropical aspect of Colima, and the contrast between the 
 luxuriant, palm-decked valley and the cold snows of the twin 
 volcanoes in the distance, is very striking. The town dates 
 from about 1523 (see p. 190) and was the third town of im- 
 portance established in New Spain. It stands on a gentle 
 slope watered by the Colima and Manrique rivers and is note- 
 worthy for its beautiful gardens and fine palms. Corpulent 
 orange trees flank the chief calzadas. The volcano as seen from 
 the plaza is magnificent, and when it is in a state of eruption 
 — which not infrequently happens — the view is awe-inspir- 
 ing; particularly at night when the fires glow in the midst of 
 the darkness. 
 
 El Volcan de Colima, called also El Yolcan deFuego (fire), 
 12,278 ft. high, is one of the most conspicuous features of the 
 State of Jalisco and is, because of the isolation of the cone 
 and its fine contour, one of the most attractive volcanoes 
 in Mexico. It is considered an almost perfect type; a great 
 cone whose cusp is frequently obscured by the dense masses 
 of smoke and steam which sometimes roll outward from the 
 active crater. This crater is almost circular; its greatest 
 diameter is about 1,600 ft. and its lesser about 1,500. On the 
 E. side is a perpendicular crater wall about 100 ft. above the 
 lava bed. The overflow of the W. side has completely buried 
 that portion of the wall and the lava rises fully a hundred 
 feet above the rim rock in the crater. Sulphur smoke con- 
 stantly escapes over this entire mass of hot lava and reaches 
 1,000 ft. or more down the mountain-side, making the ascent 
 from the W. side impossible. This new crater was opened 
 in 1869, and a comparatively fresh seared fine shows where 
 the molten lava destroyed the vegetation — which in this 
 sub-tropical region reaches almost to the mountain-top. 
 
 Time was when Colima was very active. History mentions 
 violent eruptions in 1575, 1611, 1806, 1808 and 1818. On 
 June 12, 1869, the volcano entered on a period of almost con- 
 tinuous activity, and with the exception of a few brief periods 
 of quiescence it has been in a disturbed state ever since. 
 Actual molten lava does not always flow from the crater, 
 in whose centre there is a small mountain of almost red-hot 
 lava from which clouds of steam and sulphurous gases escape. 
 Watery gases, masses of basaltic trachyte, ashes and scoria 
 form the base of the eruptive matter. Sharply defined clouds 
 of white steam often ascend from the crater, to be followed 
 by dense masses of smoke which rise in huge puffs and then 
 spread out like a gigantic tree or table above the cone. A 
 beautiful fire glow is sometimes seen at night, and ominous 
 rumblings frequently alarm the people who dwell on the Mt. 
 slopes. Colima ranks as one of the most troublesome and 
 angry of the Mexican volcanoes. The eruption of 1806 pro- 
 duced a strong earthquake which destroyed, among other 
 
EL VOLCAN DE COLIMA 36. Route. 187 
 
 things, the parish church at Zapotldn (p. 183). That of 1818 
 sent ashes as far as Guadalajara, Zacatecas and San Luis 
 Potosi. 
 
 Hard by the volcan is the splendid Mt. known as El Nevado 
 — the snowy one, 14,370 ft. high. From its summit one may 
 enjoy a magnificent panorama which includes the City of 
 Colima, Lake Chapala, the grand Cordilleras which sentinel 
 the ocean littoral, the winding Rio de Santiago and thousands 
 of square miles of tropical and sub-tropical territory. By a 
 stretch of the imagination one may convince one’s self that 
 the blue line visible on the W. horizon is Balboa’s ocean. 
 
 The starting-point for the ascent of El Nevado and Colima is from 
 Zapotldn , referred to at p. 183. Horses, guides and camp-equipment are 
 usually supplied by the hotel management. Horses about $3 a day each; 
 the stableman furnishes a mozo to look after them, but the traveller is 
 expected to pay his wages at the rate of about $1 a day. Provender for 
 the men must be included in the camping-outfit. The splendid grass on 
 the Mt. slopes furnishes food for the animals. Mountain guides such as 
 those of Switzerland do not exist in Mexico, but one may, by chance, 
 secure the services of a man who has been at the top of the crater. Prior 
 to the ascent made by 14 delegates to the Tenth International Geological 
 Congress ‘held at Mexico City in August, 1906), headed by Professor 
 Rudolph Ruedemann of the New. York State Geological Survey, the na- 
 tives declared Colima (because of deadly gases) to be unsurmountable. 
 The summit was reached by an American journalist, Arthur Ruhl, in 1912, 
 and later by others. 
 
 It is well to remember that a deep, wide, and difficult valley separates 
 Colima from El Nevado. Also that repeated eruptions alter trails and 
 contour-lines. 
 
 Parties usually start from Zapotldn early in the morning, ride all day in 
 a leisurely fashion and reach the base of the Mt. in the evening. The trail 
 from Zapotldn is through a beautifully wooded country with but little 
 underbrush and, in certain seasons, flecked with splendid wild-flowers. 
 Near the usual camp at the base of the hills there is a stretcn of country 
 covered with a fine grass which resembles Argentine Pampas grass. The 
 pack-norses relish it. By starting early in the a. m. the summit should 
 be reached about noon. To avoid the noxious vapors which emanate 
 from the crater it must be approached from the windward side. Even 
 then the position is one of constant danger, as even a momentarv shift 
 of the wind would suffocate one with the sulphur fumes. Numerous ice- 
 camps are passed. Here the peones gather the hail globules which roll 
 down from the cone into the gulleys, tamp them into a hard mass in a 
 hole >n the ground, wrap the cakes with straw, and transport them on 
 burro-back to the towns on the plains. Zapotldn receives some of its ice 
 from here, and time was when Colima and other towns were supplied in 
 this manner. Certain stretches of the timberland near these aerial camps 
 resemble the Yellowstone country. The trees are veritable forest giants 
 and the almost total absence of underbrush gives the woods the appear- 
 ance of fine cultivated parks. Near the summit the ascent is a bit weari- 
 some, as it is made through ashes, false rock and scoria. 
 
 A party of men can make the trip from Zapotldn and return in three 
 days, by speeding a bit. Four days should be allowed wdien there are 
 ladies in the party. The expense of the trip should not average over $5 a 
 day, for each, which should include horses, guides, food, etc. Unshod 
 horses are preferable to those shod with iron shoes, as the former do not 
 slip on the pine needles nor in the ashes. Small game abounds in the 
 region and persons fond of hunting will not regret taking guns and am- 
 munition along. Before starting, it should be understood with the stable- 
 man that the horses are in charge of his own mozo , so that if pack-animals 
 fall into any of the numerous barrancas and are killed, there can be no 
 shifting of responsibility. 
 
188 Route 36. 
 
 MANZANILLO 
 
 The railway line trends toward the N.-W. from Colima, 
 and crosses the Colima River , a tributary of the Armeria. 
 273 K. Coquimatlan (1,009 ft.) in a well-cultivated region. 
 The slope is steadily downward. The train again crosses 
 the Colima River , which here is joined to the Armeria. The 
 latter stream (which flows in from Jalisco, where it is known 
 as the Tuscacuesco ) is attractive to the view, but it bears an 
 evil reputation for its overflows. In the rainy season, at 
 flood-time, it covers the valley for miles around, and when 
 it recedes the country looks as if it had been visited by a tidal 
 wave. 282 K. Jala (767 ft.), a nondescript station from 
 which considerable charcoal is shipped to Colima. Tunnel. 
 289 K. La Madrid (552 ft.) on an hacienda of the same name. 
 Considerable sugar-cane, corn, rice and a number of fine fruits 
 grow hereabout. Beyond the last tunnel on the line we come 
 to 306 K. Tecoman (166 ft.), on a broad plateau which af- 
 fords some entrancing views of the tropical landscape. The 
 line crosses the Armeria bridge to 313 K. Armeria ; then a 
 twin arm of the sea separating the Laguna de Cuyutlan from 
 the Pacific Ocean. 324 K. Cuyutlan on the laguna of the 
 same name. The town is a popular bathing-resort (May and 
 June) for many Colima people. Considerable salt is evapo- 
 rated here by a primitive process. The railway follows along 
 a narrow neck of land with the laguna on the r. and the 
 ocean on the 1. 353 K. Campos. 357 K. Manzanillo {Hotel 
 Manzanillo , and Gran Pacifico, S2.50 to S3), see below. 
 
 357 K. Manzanillo (manchineel — malum mahianum), one of 
 the most important of Mexico’s Pacific Coast ports, stands at 
 the end of a long, narrow ridge which separates the ocean from 
 the Laguna de Cuyutlan (15 K. long by 11 wide) — sometimes 
 called Laguna de los Caimanes , from the number of alligators 
 which infest it. The harbor is well sheltered and is regularly 
 visited bv ships of the Mexican States Line (Sr. Jose S. Razura, 
 agent) ; The Pacific Mail S. S. Co. ( Adolfo Stoll & Co ., Agts.) 
 and The Mexican Navigation Co. ( Alfredo Ruiseco, Agt.). 
 
 Manzanillo is the Pacific outlet for Guadalajara and all that 
 vast and rich estate comprised in the State of Jalisco and con- 
 tiguous regions, and the completion of the railway line to the 
 Port, the extensive port works and other improvements are 
 items in the vast plan of the Government and the Sud Pacifico 
 de Mexico to develop the West Coast and the almost limitless 
 resources which hitherto have been practically dormant. The 
 steamship lines mentioned hereinbefore now have placed the 
 teeming population of Central and Central-Western Mexico in 
 touch with California, Canada, the Far East, the Panama 
 Canal Zone and Central and South America. 
 
 The breakwater ( rompeolas ) is unusually massive and 
 1,500,000 tons of blue granite from the Colima quarries were 
 used in its construction. On the seaward side it is protected 
 
Salt. 
 
 COLIMA STATE 
 
 36. Route. 1 §9 
 
 by huge granite blocks weighing 30 tons each, while on the 
 inner side the blocks weigh from 3 to 15 tons each. The 
 structure extends for 600 ft. into water 60 ft. deep ; it is over 
 300 ft. wide at the bottom, with a cement crown 25 ft. wide 
 and 16 ft. thick. Four years were required to finish it. The 
 harbor thus created covers about 160 acres, and when the 
 port works are completed it will afford a safe and ample 
 anchorage for 100 or more vessels. The Mexican Government 
 proposes to spend several millions of pesos to bring this port — 
 which is about midway between Mazatlan and Satina Cruz — 
 up to the standard of the other great ports of the Republic. 
 
 Manzanillo is one of the oldest towns on the Pacific Coast. 
 Hernan Cortes first visited the spot in 1525 and he caused to 
 be constructed here a number of ships with which to explore 
 the Pacific Ocean. Later (1565) some of the ships of the Ar- 
 mada of Admiral Miguel Lopez Legaspi , destined for the con- 
 quest of the Philippine Islands, were built at Salagua Port. 
 
 Colima State, one of the smallest and least populous (65,120 
 inhab.) of the Mexican States, has an area of 5,587 sqr. kilom. 
 and lies in a beautiful, semi-tropic region between the Pacific 
 Ocean (which bounds it on the S.) and the two splendid moun- 
 tains known as El Volcan (p. 186) and El Nevado de Colima 
 (p. 187). The coast-line is 160 kilom. long. It is a favored 
 strip of land, unusually rich and well watered. Michoacan 
 bounds it on the E. and Jalisco lies to the N., N.-E. and W. 
 Agriculture is the chief industry, and the population is largely 
 made up of hacendados and rancher os. Among the varied pro- 
 ducts are coffee (noted for its excellence), sugar, rice, maize, 
 cotton, indigo, tobacco, cocoanuts, cacao-beans and an almost 
 endless variety of fine fruits. Chief among these is the orange, 
 mamay, chico-zapote, tamarind , papaya (see p. 548), pine-apple, 
 chirimoya, banana, plum, pomegranate, aguacate, quince, 
 guava, and the zapote. The Flora and Fauna are unusually 
 extensive. The latter comprises over 50 species of mam- 
 mals, 100 birds, 32 reptiles, 7 batrachians, 50 fishes, 12 spe- 
 cies of mollusks, besides corals, sponges and almost number- 
 less insects. The flora embraces 170 species of trees, 60 
 fruits, 25 textiles, 20 tanning-plants, 12 oleaginous seeds, 20 
 dye-plants, 20 forage, 9 poisonous, 40 aromatic and 103 
 medicinal plants, 22 gums and resins and many ornamental 
 shrubs and flowers. It is quite possible that many of the trees, 
 etc., are still uncatalogued. The region only lacks colonists to 
 convert it into one of the finest and richest conceivable. 
 
 The Manufacture of Salt is a growing industry, and 
 the mineral wealth of the state consists principally of the 
 salt deposits which extend along the coast. The most pro- 
 minent Salt-Pits ( salinas ) are those of Cualata, Cuyutlan , 
 Pascuales, San Pantaleon , Guazango, Guayabal , Vega Car- 
 
190 Route 86. 
 
 COLIMA STATE 
 
 Climate. 
 
 rizal, Tecuan and Caiman. Their product is known through- 
 out the Republic as Sal de Colima (C. salt). Over 5,000 work- 
 men are employed, and the annual output represents about 
 one half million pesos. The methods of extraction are very 
 primitive. 
 
 The Climate is cool and healthy in the N. (from Suchitlan 
 de las Flores to the volcanoes) ; temperate and likewise salu- 
 brious in the central region (from C uauhtemotzin to Comala ) ; 
 hot and not so healthful from Colima City to Tecolapan; and 
 torrid and unwholesome on the coast. Malaria is not unknown. 
 
 Historical Sketch. Colima, from the Indian Colliman — 
 colli, arm, and man , hand, signifies tierra conquistada (con- 
 quered land). The symbol of the primitive tribes was a 
 hieroglyph representing a hand and an arm, interpreted by 
 them to mean a dominion exercised by force. 
 
 The old kingdom of Colliman was founded by the Aztecs 
 during their long and wearisome peregrination in search of the 
 traditional spot on which to found their empire (comp. p. clxiv). 
 When the Spaniards reached Mexico the territory (much 
 larger than now) was under the suzerainty of Montezuma , 
 to whom a tribute of blankets, cacao-beans and mother-of- 
 pearl was paid every SO days. The capital of the kingdom, 
 which was very populous, was Cajitlan. In 1522 Cortes made 
 preparations for its subjugation to Spain. An expedition was 
 sent from Tenochtitlan, and its captain, Juan Alvarez Chico, 
 was killed in the first sanguinary encounter with the Indians. 
 When Cristobal de Olid returned to Tenochtitlan from his 
 successful campaign against the Tarascans of Michoacan 
 (p. 217), he was placed at the head of a second expedition 
 which was in turn routed by the valiant Collimenses. A third 
 expedition, headed by Gonzalo de Sandoval and aided by a 
 horde of the subjugated Tarascans, made a desperate assault 
 on the Colliman stronghold and were repulsed. Sandoval 
 then laid siege to the district, and, aided by reenforcements 
 from Mexico City, succeeded in breaking the power of the 
 native chiefs. 
 
 The ancient capital of Cajitlan was very unhealthy and 
 Sandoval moved it to the site of the present city of Colima , 
 which was founded in 1523 under the name of San Sebastian. 
 In 1554 Felipe II gave it the title of Villa de Santiago de los 
 Caballeros (Saint James of the Gentlemen). After the war 
 for Independence the Colima district was made (1823) into a 
 territory. Later it formed a part of the State of Michoacan. 
 In 1876 it was again given the title of Territorio. On Feb. 5, 
 1857, it was declared a free and sovereign state of the Mexican 
 Federation. 
 
MEXICO CITY TO URUAPAN 87. Rte 191 
 
 37. From Mexico City via Toluca, Maravatio, 
 Acambaro, Morelia and Patzcuaro to Uruapan. 
 
 515 K. Trains leave from the Estacidn de Colonia (PI. D, 4). For fares, 
 see p. xxxi. Time can perhaps be economized on this trip by consulting 
 the Guia Oficial and Route 29, p. 108. Passengers who take the train 
 at Mexico City pass the most characteristic parts of the mountain scenery 
 between the capital and Toluca by day. The best views are to the left. 
 
 Mexico City, see p. 232. Before reaching the tawdry 
 suburbs we parallel the Paseo de la Reforma. 5 K. Em - 
 palme de Tacuba. The train runs toward the S.-W. past the 
 squat houses of the lower class and out through small 
 patches of the omnipresent maguey (p. Ixxxi). 
 
 11 K. Naucalpam. Maguey fields stretch away from the 
 station and the huge, spiky plants produce some of the pulque 
 (p. lxxxii) served in the capital. 
 
 San Bartolo Naucalpam (Nauc&lpam only, on the rly. time-card), also 
 called Villa Juarez ; in the State of Mexico, Distrito de Tlalnepantla , 
 is a picturesque town (pop. 8,000) in the foothills of the Sierra de las 
 Cruces , surrounded by fine haciendas, many of which are dotted with 
 flour-mills. Its chief attraction is the widely celebrated Santuario de 
 Nuestra Senora de los Remedios (Our Lady of the Remedies) which crowns 
 a hill ( El Cerro de Tololtepec) about 1* M. west of the town. 
 
 The church, a small and tawdry affair, occupies the site of an old 
 Aztec temple ( Teocalhueyacan ) which stood here before the Conquest , 
 and which was occupied as a fortress by the Spaniards after their dis- 
 astrous retreat from Tenochtitldn on the celebrated Noche Triste (p. 
 clxxxiii). Soon after the downfall of the Aztec metropolis the temple was 
 demolished to make way for the present structure. The fortress-like 
 edifice adjoining the church was erected by the Ayuntamiento of Mexico 
 City, for the accommodation of the clergy, and for the state dignitaries, 
 on the occasion of the annual festival (in Sept.) in honor of the Virgen 
 de los Remedios. A large cloister, or caravansary, built as a shelter for 
 the Indians who came from many distant places to pay homage to the 
 Virgin, was once a feature of the enclosure. The curious old aqueduct 
 towers date from 1620, when Don Alonso Tello de Guzmdn tried to bring in 
 water from a neighboring barranca. 
 
 m The Virgen de los Remedios , patroness of the Spaniards in Mexico, and 
 rival of the Virgin of Guadalupe (p. 394) who is the patroness of the Mexi- 
 cans, is an ugly wooden doll, about 12 inches high, holding in its arms an 
 infant Jesus; both evidently carved with a dull penknife. Two holes 
 represent the eyes and another the mouth; the finished article is absurdly 
 inartistic and the work bespeaks the rude, Indian craftsman. The cred- 
 ulous believe that it was brought from Alcantara (Spain) by Captain 
 R. de Villafuente (one of the Conquistador es who came over with Cortes) 
 and that it was placed by him on the main altar of the first chapel erected 
 (1520) by the Spaniards in the New World. Tradition has it that it was 
 removed from Tenochtitldn a few days before the retreat of the Spaniards 
 on the Sad Night, and taken by its owner and placed (for safe keeping) 
 beneath a giant maguey plant near the Teocalhueyacan , on the spot 
 where the present church stands. Twenty years later a Christianized 
 Indian cacique, Juan de Aguila , found it, placed it on the altar in his hut 
 and worshipped it as the Aztec goddess of water. ^ The alleged miraculous 
 appearance of the Virgin of Guadalupe opened the eyes of the clergy to 
 the intrinsic value of such apparitions, and no sooner was this wooden 
 image found than it began to do supernatural things. It fled from the 
 
192 Route 37. 
 
 NAUCALPAM 
 
 Virgen de 
 
 cacique’s house and returned to the hill ; the cacique recovered it, put it in 
 a strong box in his hut and slept on the lid, but it vanished a second 
 time, and a second time was found beneath the maguey. Aguila then 
 told the holy fathers at San Gabriel , in Tacuba, and they immediately 
 perceived that a miracle had been performed. A hermitage was soon 
 erected on the hill-top and a Spanish competitor of the Mexican Virgin 
 was heralded to the religious world. The doll was dressed in satins and 
 pearls, a quantity of false hair was fastened on her head, and a rich crown 
 added. A fine gilded altar was arranged, enclosed by a silver railing, and 
 a huge silver maguey — emblematic of her home for 20 years — was 
 made a feature of the shrine. Despite the fact that the Mexicans de- 
 risively called her a gachupina (a vituperative epithet signifying a 
 Spanish woman) her popularity grew apace. Indians came from all 
 parts of the country to worship her, and her shrine was made the object 
 of a fanatical devotion. One devotee, in an ecstasy of religious zeal, bit off 
 the largest pearl in her diadem and made off with it before he could be 
 captured. 
 
 A larger church was soon needed and it was erected in 1574-75, but it 
 was found too small to hold the multitude which came to pay homage to 
 the Virgin; a still larger one was therefore started, but it was not com- 
 pleted till 1629. Marvellous powers of healing, warding off epidemics 
 and of rain-making were soon credited to the Virgin, and she was officially 
 declared the special patroness of the Spaniards in the City of Mexico. 
 When a drought or epidemic threatened the capital the figurine was 
 carried in great state at the head of an impressive procession to Mexico 
 City, where it was solemnly received by the Viceroy, the City Council, 
 the Archbishop and the rest of the clergy. Sometimes the Viceroy 
 headed the holy procession as it wound into the city; in such cases a 
 noble of the highest rank drove the chariot in which the image reposed. 
 The principal convents were visited in succession, and as the Virgin was 
 carried through the cloistered precincts, the nuns ranged themselves on 
 their knees in humble adoration: it was then conducted to the Cathedral 
 where high mass was sung and other ceremonies performed. When rain 
 was desired it came in copious showers immediately after her arrival. 
 Her special protection was earnestly solicited when the royal tribute 
 was sent to Spain, to ensure its safe arrival. Gifts of immense value were 
 deposited at her shrine and a treasurer was appointed to take care of her 
 jewels and her rich wardrobe. (This treasury is now full of rubbish and is 
 not worth looking at.) 
 
 When a wealthy woman of the nobility died, her largest gem was 
 usually bequeathed to Our Lady of the Remedies. According to tradi- 
 tion several attempts were made to “restore ” the image, but in each case 
 the artist sickened and died. 
 
 At the outbreak of the War for Independence (1810) the Spaniards 
 chose the image as their protectress, in opposition to the Virgin of 
 Guadalupe, who guided the Mex. troops to victory. In Sept., 1810, the 
 Spaniards solemnly elevated the Virgen de los Remedios to the position of 
 General of the Royal Army. During: the war very uncomplimentary in- 
 sinuations. relative to the virtue of the two Virgins, were interchanged 
 by the opposing forces. When the Mexicans defeated the Spaniards at 
 the battle of Las Cruces (Oct. 30, 1810), a Mexican general stripped the 
 Spanish patroness of her general's uniform, tore her sash, reproached 
 her for being a gachupina , signed her passport, and ordered her deported 
 to Spain. Upon the promise of the Spaniards that she would not be per- 
 mitted to influence politics, she was permitted to remain. 
 
 The image is preserved in a glass shrine, opened only on special oc- 
 casions. The camarin was added to the church (renovated in 1850) in 
 1692-95 at the expense of Don Francisco Fernando Marmoles, Supreme 
 Judge of the Order of the Real Audiencia. Master craftsmen were brought 
 from Puebla to do the stucco work. 
 
 Upon the adoption of the celebrated Reform Laws, the massive silver 
 railing which once enclosed the altar, the huge silver maguey, and the 
 wealth of jewels went into the government exchequer to later aid in the 
 establishment of the present admirable system of secular schools. There 
 still remain some indifferent pictures, dating from 1595 and illustrating 
 
los Remedies. 
 
 NAUCALPAM 
 
 87. Route. 193 
 
 scenes in the life of the Virgin. The picture by Francisco de los Angeles, 
 painted in 1699, represents the twelve apostles. The Cacique Juan de 
 Aguila is buried under the main altar. Hard by is the chest in which he 
 sought to make the Virgin a prisoner and from which she repeatedly 
 escaped; and the small gourd in which he offered her food in an effort 
 to keep her contented while in his house. 
 
 A small slab of Puebla onyx inserted in the floor in front of the chancel 
 bears the inscription : 
 
 “ This is the true spot where the Chief Don Juan de Aguila Tobar found 
 the most holy Virgin, beneath a maguey, in 1540. It is the spot where, 
 in the times of her appearance to him, she told him that he should search 
 for her.” This slab replaced (1796) a pillar which supported a small 
 maguey and a carved image of the Virgin. 
 
 The chief festivals are held Sept. 1, and (by the Indians) on the 
 14th Sunday after Pentecost. During the Vice-regal period a brilliant 
 fiesta was celebrated on the day of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. 
 
 The ruined aqueduct visible from the Cerro and church was erected 
 (1620) by Alonzo de Guzman , for the purpose of supplying the church 
 with water. It was renovated in 1724. 
 
 A good walker can make the trip back to the capital on foot, through 
 the towns (follow the rly. track) of Azcapotzalco and Tacuba. 
 
 From Naucalpam the railway continues across the flocr 
 of the Valley of Mexico. This is soon left behind and we enter 
 the foothills of the Toluca Range. 15 K. Rio Hondo (deep- 
 river). The town lies \ M. up the gulch from the station. 
 Mountain streams hereabout render many culverts necessary 
 and before reaching San Bartolito } 8 K. further on, we cross 
 one stream ten times or more. 23 K. San Bartolito , a quaint 
 hamlet nestling in a warm pocket of the hills. A shipping- 
 point for some excellent gray stone taken from a quarry far 
 up the hillside and visible (to the 1.) as we pass. Between this 
 point and Dos Rios we skirt the edge of a deep barranca and 
 the train crawls warily along daring terraces cut from the 
 sides of the hills. The mountains are bare and parched, except 
 where the streams have brought shrubs and flowers into life. 
 28 K. Dos Rios (two rivers). 31 K. Nava (a plain surrounded 
 by mts.). We enter the first tunnel on the line. The view of 
 the town of Nava is very fine as we climb upward. Tunnel. 
 The eye embraces a splendid view of distant mountains dotted 
 with small cultivated patches sometimes planted in geo- 
 metrical forms. Flocks of goats browse on the grass which 
 clothes the higher reaches, and magueyales are features of 
 the landscape. Brawling streams rush down the declivities; 
 the train climbs steadily upward and we soon reach the 
 region of pines. 33 K. Laurel. 37 K. San Martin. 40 K. La 
 Cima (the summit). 42 K. Salazar , in a sun-lit valley high 
 in the mountains. Many Indian women offer comestibles for 
 sale to the train passengers. As the line zigzags through th$ 
 hills it passes towering mountains and deep gorges, and 
 traverses fine groves of pine woods. Some daring engineering 
 feats were necessary to build the road. To the 1. we descry 
 the automobile road connecting Mexico City and Toluca; 
 and later we cross this road at the crest of the hill. 45 K. 
 Carretera Toluca (Toluca highroad). 48 K. Fresno (cedar). 
 
194 Route 38. 
 
 TOLUCA 
 
 We pass beneath a stone aqueduct, then a steel one and reach 
 52 K. Jajolpa, a quaint hacienda with an old Spanish mill, 
 in the centre of a little valley hemmed in by the mts. From 
 this point onward we encounter one of the finest bits of scene- 
 ry on the line. To the 1., in a deep valley to which we descend 
 by many twists and turns, is the town of 57 K. De la Torre. 
 The landscape with its magnificent views recalls, in a minor 
 way, the village of Maltrata on the Mexican Railway, de- 
 scribed at p. 484. The descent from the summit of the hill to 
 the station is very abrupt. The valley in which the town 
 stands is green and productive. From a height of a thousand 
 feet or more we look down upon the roofs of the native houses, 
 and upon the narrow streets between. 60 K. Doha Rosa. 
 63 K. Lerma. We cross a sedgy, marshy tract intersected 
 by canals along which Indian boatmen paddle primitive 
 dug-outs. From this region comes much of the fine market 
 produce sold in Toluca. The Toluca auto road flanks the line 
 on the 1. and along this, in the early morning, many Indian 
 men and women trot cityward laden with fruit and vegetables. 
 The line curves to the S., then toward the N.-E. We cross 
 broad plains dotted with herds of cattle and flanked by corn- 
 fields. We pass the Panteon General (on the 1.) and enter 
 the city. 73 K. Toluca. See below. 
 
 For a continuation of our journey see p. 199. 
 
 38. Toluca. 
 
 Arrival. The Railway Station (PI. E, 2) is on the outskirts of the 
 town, about 1 M. from the Plaza de la Constitucion , in a suburb known as 
 Barrio del Ferrocarril Nacional. Cabs meet all trains; fare to any hotel 
 50 c.; double after 10 v. m. Within the town the fares are the same as 
 those of Mexico City, referred to at p. 235. Cargadores (comp. p. lii) will 
 deliver hand-bags or a medium-size trunk to the hotel or a residence for 
 25 c. Several express companies compete for this business : 25 c. for a 
 trunk: less where there are a number of pieces. Tram-cars ( Tranvias de 
 Toluca ) meet all trains, and on their way to their terminus near the plaza, 
 they pass near to the chief hotels. Fare 10 c. Suburban lines connect 
 Toluca with several picturesque villages in the environs. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). Hotel Leon de Oro (Golden Lion), facing the 
 Avenida de la I ndependencia (PI. B, 2), near the plaza ; S2 to $3 Am. Pl. t 
 according to location of room. Rooms only, SI ; meals, 60 c. Automobile 
 garage. — Gran Hotel Sociedad, on the Ave. de la Libertad (PI. B, 3) ; SI to 
 $3 Am. PI. German cooking and management. Eng. and Sp. spoken. — 
 Hotel Andueza, in the Portal de la Constitucion (P1.B,3), S2 to $2.50 Am. 
 PI. — Hotel runners do not always meet trains. No omnibuses. Ground 
 floor rooms in Toluca are apt to be cold and unhealthy, and they should 
 be avoided. 
 
 Baths (comp. p. lii). There are Casas de Banos in the Ave. de la In- 
 dependence, the Calle de San Juan de Dios, and in the Ave.de la Liber- 
 tad. Turco- Roman bath, 75 c.; steam (hot room), 50 c.; tub, 30 c.; shower, 
 15 c. 
 
 Banks. Banco del Estado de Mexico. — Banco Nacional de Mexico. 
 
 Toluca de Lerdo (8,761 ft.), 900 ft. higher than Mexico 
 City, with 26,000 inhabitants; capital of the State of Mexico; 
 
N 
 
 CO 
 
 
 CoU)* 4 . 
 
Climate . 
 
 TOLUCA 
 
 88. Route 195 
 
 an important commercial centre locally celebrated for its 
 attractive environs, lies on an extensive and fertile plain 
 which slopes gently toward the S.-E. Mountains hem in the 
 valley on the N. and W., and broad haciendas stretch away 
 to the E. and S. The situation of the city is very picturesque, 
 and the distant views of the mountain-tops — often covered 
 with snow — are fine- The place is well drained and healthy, 
 but cold in winter. The altitude is trying to some constitutions. 
 The Climate is marked by sharp contrasts; the winter is 
 almost as raw as that of a New England city; the summer 
 is delightful, with warm days and cool nights. Animals and 
 crawling things dislike the elevation and there are fewer dogs, 
 cats, and insects than elsewhere. The absence of heating appli- 
 ances renders the winter nights uncomfortable to the traveller. 
 The town is singularly free from endemic diseases; those of 
 the respiratory organs being the most common, and the most 
 to be dreaded. 
 
 At this altitude the unacclimated should be very careful in the matter 
 of taking cold; a simple head cold is not to be feared, but a chest cold 
 may quickly develop into pneumonia with evil results. The traveller who 
 finds himself attacked by a cold on the lungs should at once seek a lower 
 elevation. 
 
 Historical Sketch. The land on which Toluca stands was included in 
 the grant made by Charles V to Hern an Cortes when he was elevated 
 to the title of Marquis of the Valley of Oaxaca, with a great landed 
 domain. This mountain eyrie possessed a peculiar charm for the eagle- 
 eyed Conquistador , and here (1533), a dozen years after the fall of 
 Tenochtitlan, he founded a settlement. Prior to the Spanish invasion the 
 region was peopled by the Matlatzinca , a wandering tribe which had ar- 
 rived (from the N.) at the Valley of Mexico during the reign of the 
 Chichimec monarch Xolotl. The first village was called Tollocan — 
 where there are Tules (reeds or trees), and the Spaniards corrupted this 
 word into Toluca. It was long the favorite stronghold of the cacique 
 who ruled over the region. By a decree dated Nov. 14, 1861, it became 
 known as Toluca de Lerdo. in honor of President Sebastian Lerdo de 
 Tejada , an illustrious Mex. statesman. 
 
 The streets of Toluca are straight and clean, and several of 
 them parallel the Xicualtenco River as it crosses the town. 
 The Avenida Independencia, a long, busy street, connects the 
 centre with the station of the F. Cs . Nacionales at the E. 
 
 The Plaza Principal (PI. B, 2), called also El Jar din del 
 Zocalo (comp. p. liii), stands at the head of the several pretty 
 plazas in the town ; minor plazas are the P. del Carmen (PI. B, 2) ; 
 Jar din Morelos (PI. A, 2) ; J. Zaragoza (PI. C, 3) ; J . de los H om- 
 bres Ilustres (with a fine monument described at p. 197) ; El 
 P argue Cuauhtemoc (PI. A, 3), and the Plaza de la Republica 
 (PI. B, 2). Facing the Jardin de tos Mdrtires (PI. B, 2) is the 
 Palacio de Gobierno, erected in 1872 (cost $80,000) on 
 the site of the old Casa Consistorial (Senate, or Guildhall), 
 occupied for many years by Martin Cortes , a son of the Great 
 Conqueror. In the Audience Hall (no fees) are portraits of 
 the early governors of the State of Mexico. 
 
196 Route 38. 
 
 TOLUCA 
 
 The Palacio de Justicia (PL B, 3) dates from 1871 and is 
 a part of the sometime Convento de San Juan de Dios. 
 
 The Palacio Municipal (PL B, 2), a somewhat uninteresting 
 edifice, was completed in 1883 and cost $43,620. Other chief 
 buildings are the Institute Cientifico-Literario (PL B, 4), with 
 500 alumnos ; La Escuela de Aries y Ojicios (PL B, 3) ; La Escuela 
 Riva Palacio and El Conservatorio de Musica y Declamaeidn. 
 The small Museo del Estado (PL B, 2) contains an interest- 
 ing collection of Indian monoliths, weapons and whatnot. 
 Open all day, free. No fees necessary. 
 
 The Biblioteca Publica (with 12,000 volumes, mostly in 
 Spanish) is housed in the old Gorostiza Theatre (PL B, 2), 
 and contains some rare old Spanish documents replete with 
 interest for antiquarians. Toluca was a Spanish stronghold 
 for many years after the Conquest, and some of the old parch- 
 ment records left by the early mayors ( corregidores ) wall re- 
 ward the seeker after odd historical facts. 
 
 The Mercado Riva Palacio, largest of the city markets, 
 w T as completed in 1851 at a cost of $25,844. A fine old por- 
 tico with six massive pillars adorns the south entrance. Na- 
 tives from the surrounding country congregate here to sell 
 and barter their articles of home manufacture, and these, 
 with their picturesque costumes, are usually attractive to the 
 visitor. Some interesting shops flank the portales adjoining 
 the market. There is another market (a new r one) a few 7 squares 
 to the N.-E. (PL B, 2.) 
 
 The Parochial Church (PL B, 3) knowm also as the Templo 
 del Tercer Orden , is the oldest ch. in Toluca and w~as erected soon 
 after the Conquest, on a site given to the Franciscans by a 
 Matlalzinca cacique whose Spanish name w T as Juan Cortes. 
 The structure was replaced in 15S5 by a larger one. The old 
 facade is very interesting. The present entrance is through 
 the portales that face the Calle Riva Palacio , a few 7 doors 
 (to the 1.) from the Jardin de los Mdrtires. A new ch. is in 
 process of construction, but a portion of the old structure will 
 be retained. 
 
 The Church of La Santa Vera Cruz (PL B, 2) flanks the 
 Ave. Independencia and contains but little to interest the 
 traveller. Directly across the street is a narrow 7 lane ( Callejon 
 del Carmen ) which leads two squares N. to the Plaza de la 
 Republica and the huge Templo de El Carmen (PL B, 2), at the 
 foot of a wide atrium wfith some tall trees. The campanario 
 contains some deep-toned bells, and the fine organ (of Euro- 
 pean origin), which adorns the interior, w r as installed and 
 blessed with solemn ceremonies July 15, 1906. 
 
 In the Jardin de los Mdrtires (PL B, 2) is a commanding 
 statue to the revolutionary patriot and chief, Miguel Hidalgo 
 y Costilla. The bronze tablet let into the right side of the base 
 represents a scene from the battle of the Monte de las Cruces 
 
TOLUCA 
 
 38. Route. 197 
 
 (p. ccii). The date in the rear, Sept. 16, 1810, refers to the out- 
 break of the revolution. The tablet on the 1. represents the 
 celebrated storming of the Alhondiga de Granaditas, described 
 at p. 139. The heroic peon miner from the Mellado mine is seen 
 in the attitude of setting fire to the castle door. The inscrip- 
 tion on the face advises that the monument is a tribute to 
 Hidalgo, from the State of Mexico, and was erected in 1900. 
 The fine bronze statue of the doughty cum is inspiring. In 
 his left hand he holds the banner of the Virgin of Guadalupe , 
 taken from the Sanctuary of Atotonilco. (See p. cci.) Hard by 
 this plazuela is the Jardin Morelos (PI. A, 2), w r ith a somewhat 
 idealized bronze statue of Jose Marta Morelos y Pavon. 
 
 Another monument to Hidalgo stands near the rly. (F. Cs. 
 Nacionales) station. It is of white marble, from the Tenancingo 
 quarries, and carries busts of Allende, Aldama and Abasola. 
 Still another monument, erected to commemorate certain 
 illustrious Mexicans, stands in the Jardin de los H ombres 
 Ilustres. The shaft is an obelisk, 30 ft. high, and dates from 
 1889. It is adorned with the national arms, the names of 
 many eminent Mexicans, and carries a metal bust, in high 
 relief, of the celebrated poetess, Juana Ines de la Cruz (comp, 
 p. cxlix). 
 
 At the entrance to the Paseo de Colon, at the S. end of the 
 city, is the handsome new church, La Parroquia del Ranchito 
 (PI. B, 4), completed and dedicated Aug. 11, 1891. The older 
 portion of the ch. dates from the 18th century. The spacious 
 interior contains a number of large paintings of the modern 
 school. Midway of the paseo is a Corinthian column erected to 
 celebrate the 4th centenarv of the discovery of America, and 
 intended for the statue of Columbus (see below), which proved 
 too massive for the pillar. 
 
 The Monumento de Colon (PI. B, 4), erected in 1892 on 
 the old Calzada de Capultitlan (now Paseo de Colon), is the 
 finest in the city. A good automobile road extends past the 
 statue and far out into the country. The walk to the end of 
 the paseo should be taken both for an inspection of the statue 
 and for the fine view of the surrounding country. The in- 
 scription on the face of the pedestal advises that “ the people 
 and the Government of the State of Mexico, associated with 
 the resident Spanish colony, erected this monument to the 
 memory of the immortal discoverer of America.” On the 1. 
 side are the bronze coat-of-arms of Mexico. The inscription 
 on the S. side reads: “ A remembrance of imperishable grati- 
 tude to Isabel the Catholic and the other illustrious collab- 
 orators in the work of the eminent Christopher Columbus.” 
 On the r. are the arms of Castile and Leon. The statue of the 
 great Genoese navigator surmounts a globe resting upon a 
 short and massive column which in turn stands upon a broad, 
 quadrangular plinth or zocle, reached by four flights of steps. 
 
198 Route 38. 
 
 STATE OF MEXICO 
 
 It is a striking and permanent refutation of Baron Von 
 Humboldt’s remark that “ the Mexicans were unmindful of 
 the merits of that great man.” 
 
 Excursions : Two miles W. of the town is the Church of 
 Nuestra SeNora de Tecajic, a popular Indian shrine with 
 a much venerated image (painted on coarse cotton cloth) of 
 the Assumption of the Virgin. It dates from a few years after 
 the alleged appearance of the Virgin of Guadalupe (1531), 
 is of no special merit, and is doubtless the work of some 
 jealous friar not to be outdone by his more alert brothers at 
 the capital. The credulous Indians attribute magic healing 
 powers to the picture and make long and laborious pilgrimages 
 to lay their troubles before it. 
 
 A trip to El Nevado Mt. should be planned only with the 
 advice of the hotel manager. At certain seasons snow-slides 
 render the ascent perilous. The crater contains a curious 
 lake in which there is a small whirlpool ( vortice ). Good guides 
 are difficult to obtain. SI to $2 a day is ample for their services. 
 
 The Ferrocarriles de Toluca a Tenango (PI. C, 3) and San Juan 
 de las Huertas (PI. A, 2) run frequent trains (consult Ghiia Oficial) to the 
 suburban towns of 4 Kil. San Francisco ; 7 K. Metepec ; 13 K. Mexical - 
 cinqo; 18 K. Calimaya ; 23 K. San Aguslin ; 25 K. Tenango and 30 K. 
 A It a. None of these points will repay the tourist for the time spent in 
 visiting them. 
 
 The State of Mexico, designated geographically as an Es - 
 tado del Centro , with a pop. of 934,463 and an area of 23,957 
 sqr. kilom., is one of the smallest but most progressive of the 
 Mex. states, and is bounded on the N. by Hidalgo, on the E. 
 by Tlaxcala and Puebla , on the S., S.-E. and S.-W. by Morelos 
 and Guerrero and on the W. by Michoacan. During the Spanish 
 dominion the region embraced the present states of Hidalgo , 
 Morelos and Guerrero , and the Federal District, and was called 
 the Intendencia de Mexico , because the capital, Mexico City, 
 was within its borders. For political reasons it is divided into 
 15 Distritos: Chaleo, Cuauhtitlan, Ixtlahuaca, Jilotepec, Lerma , 
 Otumba, Sultepec, Tlalnepantla, Temascaltepec, Tenancingo , 
 Tenango, T excoco, Toluca, and the Valles de Bravo and Zum- 
 pango. The capital, Toluca , is described at p. 194. 
 
 Nature has divided it into two well-defined regions; the E. 
 a plain, the W. a mountainous region. Between the various 
 ridges which characterize the latter are fine valleys, and, 
 stretching away from the foothills, are vast upland plains, 
 some of them 8,000 ft. above the sea. Chief among them are 
 the Plains of Chaleo, Texcoco, Otumba, Teotihuacan , Cuauhtit- 
 lan, Tlalnepantla and Zumpango, the latter in the Valley of 
 Mexico. Near Toluca are the plains of Almoloya, Ixtlahuaca 
 and Tenango. The table-land is intersected by low foothills 
 and dotted with salt lakes and marshes. Certain regions are 
 grandly rugged, with Popocatepetl (p 463) as the culminating 
 
REAL DEL ORO 
 
 37. Route. 199 
 
 point. Hard by Toluca is the fine peak of Xinantecatl — “ the 
 naked man” (14,900 ft.) — also called Nevado de Toluca, with 
 a lake of potable water in its now quiescent crater. The Ajusco 
 range, the Sierra de Guadalupe, that of Las Cruces, Temascalte- 
 pec, Monte Alto and Monte Bajo, and many minor peaks are 
 features of the state. 
 
 Within the confines of this state are two of the most beau- 
 tiful and celebrated valleys of the Republic — The Valley 
 of Mexico (p. 244) and V. of Toluca. The latter is celebrated 
 for the production of good blackberry wine {vino de zarza ), 
 for bulls for the Mexico City ring and for many minor pro- 
 ducts. The mats {petates) made from tules (reeds), and baskets 
 {chiquihuites) rank among the best. 
 
 Climatological conditions vary with the altitude. It is 
 colder in Toluca than in Mex. City. 
 
 The Lerma, the most important river in the Republic, rises 
 in the state, and travels 452 kilom. before emptying its waters 
 into Lake Chapala (p. 152), whence it emerges under another 
 name (the Santiago) and merges with the Pacific Ocean near 
 San Bias. The principal lakes are Zumpango, San Cristobal, 
 Texcoco and Chaleo , all near Mex. City. The flora and fauna 
 are those proper to the temperate and frigid zones. The state 
 is unusually rich in minerals, gold, silver and lead forming 
 the chief output. The greatest mining-camp is Real del Oro , 
 described below. 
 
 Toluca, see p. 194. The train traverses a broad plain which 
 alternates with hills and valleys. Many dry arroyos cross the 
 country. Tunnel. 81 K. Palmillas. 84 K. Presa. 98 K .Del Rio. 
 
 112 K. Ixtlahuaca. The town lies about 1 M. to the r. on a 
 level plain, and is reached over a good road. {Hotel Rayon, $2- 
 $3 Am. PL) Usual charge by diligencia, 50 c. The high steel 
 towers seen from the train carry electric energy from Necaxa 
 (p. 517) to the distant mining-town of El Oro. 125 K. Tepetitlan. 
 
 134 K. Flor de Maria. Rly. restaurant. Meals $1. 144 K. 
 Manto. 155 K. Bassoco. 159 K. Venta del Aire. 
 
 164 K. Tultenango. A branch railway, F. C. Minero de El Oro , 
 runs hence to 47 K. Yondese, via 10 K. El Oro, 19 K. La Cima, 
 24 K. Los Medanos, 31 K. Carmona and 39 K. Trinidad. One 
 train daily in five hours. Consult Guia Oficial. 
 
 Real del Oro (Royal of the gold) or El Oro , as it is commonly known 
 (9,200 ft. — State of Mexico), one of the richest and most celebrated min- 
 ing-camps in the Republic, a picturesque but somewhat unkempt town 
 nestling in a pocket of the hills, came into prominence late in the 18th 
 century when the Spaniards discovered the enormously rich Veto, Des- 
 cubridora. Between 1800 and 1825 the output of mineral was so large that 
 it attracted the attention of miners from many parts of the world. To-day 
 a score or more mines dot the hills and the output of gold is perhaps 
 greater than that of any other similar district in Mexico. “Much of the 
 ore is found in particles imperceptible to the naked eye, in a matrix of 
 quartz which contains a sulphuret of silver, disseminated through the 
 mass in narrow strips.” Most of the machinery in the camp is run by 
 
200 Route 37. 
 
 ACAMBARO 
 
 Zitdcua.ro. 
 
 electrical energy supplied over wires from the central plant of the Mex- 
 ican Light and Power Company at Necaxa Falls. The boundary-line of 
 the States of Mexico and Michoacan passes through the camp, which is 
 steadily growing. Snow often falls in El Oro during the short winter 
 months. For a history of the mines and the region consult: Real del Oro , 
 T. C. Graham, printed by C. B. Hamilton & Co., Mexico, 1899. 
 
 Our line parallels that of the rly. to El Oro for a few hundred 
 yards ; then the latter turns off to the 1. We cross a short strip 
 of level country, then penetrate the hills and skirt the edge 
 of a long and deep barranca ; at the farther end of this we 
 emerge on a narrow ledge, curve to the right, sweep clear 
 around the head of a fine and very long valley, and gain a 
 splendid view of hundreds of square miles of well-cultivated 
 valley land dotted with haciendas and bounded at one end 
 by a series of stone palisades like those of the Hudson River. 
 We describe a series of double horseshoe curves before reach- 
 ing 176 K. Solis. Hereabout the scenery is very attractive. 
 The view ( golpe de vista) embraces a wide sweep of country 
 sprinkled with maguey plantations. The upland plains are 
 the grazing-grounds for many herds of horses and cattle, 
 while the lowlands hold dimpling lakes in their green bosoms. 
 Mountain peaks everywhere mark the sky-line. 187 K. Tepe - 
 ton go. 194 K. Agua Buena. 197 K. Colorado. 201 K. Mayor. 
 Hurtling winds sweep across the highlands hereabout and the 
 squat homes of the natives have their roofs held down by 
 stones, to prevent their blowing off. 206 K .Pateo. 210 K. 
 Pomoca , a shipping-point for charcoal. 
 
 A mile or more before reaching Maravatio, our line joins 
 that of the Division de Michoacan y Pacifico (see below). 
 The trains from this line join the main fine on a Y and back 
 into the station of the Mex. Nat. at 
 
 224 K. Maravatio , a nondescript town (J M. to 1. of station), 
 with a weather-beaten church of no merit. Hotel Universal , 
 $2 Am. PI. 
 
 A daily mixed train runs hence, over the Division de Michoacan y 
 Pacifico , to S6 K. Zitdcuaro (6,560 ft.), in 5 hrs. 
 
 236 K. San Antonio. We skirt the brink of a deep gorge 
 with a plunging stream at its base, then round the edge of a 
 vast depression in the hills. 245 K. Zirizicuaro. The train 
 crosses a poor region sprinkled with mesquite and furrowed 
 with dry arroyos. 257 K. Tarandacuao. In the depressions 
 among the hills are several quiet lakes, the feeding-ground 
 for many ducks that breed here practically undisturbed. The 
 prospect betters. Hence to Acdmbaro, through the stations 
 of 265 K. San Jose , and 273 K. Providencia , the train winds 
 among hills. Hard by San Jose is the little pueblo of Aguas - 
 calientes , with some crude thermal springs. 286 K. Acambaro. 
 Comp. p. 108. 
 
 The train travels to the 1. and soon after leaving Acdmbaro 
 
LAKE CUITZEO 
 
 37. Route. 201 
 
 we compass the high hills by long, sweeping curves. The view 
 of the town, now from one side of the train, now from the other, 
 is attractive. We soon enter a wild region of deep valleys 
 and precipitous hills, verdure covered. Patches of corn reach 
 far up the hillsides, which in some places are terraced by the 
 laborious husbandmen. From the heights we obtain beguil- 
 ing views of hundreds of miles of lowland dotted with lakes 
 and enlivened by omnipresent water-fowl. 
 
 300 K. La Cumbre. The wild gorge is called Escape de la 
 Cumbre. The topographical irregularity has necessitated 
 many expensive cuttings and terraces. The line soon seeks 
 the lower levels, skirting broad, cultivated fields with a series 
 of lakes (on the r.) in which the reflection of the hills is beau- 
 tiful. The configuration of the country is particularly adapted 
 to the husbanding of the rains which pour down the water- 
 sheds, and there is perhaps no finer lake region in the Mexican 
 Republic. The largest of the lakes visible from the train is 
 Cuitzeo, in the valley of the same name. On an island in this 
 lake dwells a tribe of Indians who live in a very primitive way 
 and refuse communication with the outer world. The scenery 
 to the r. recalls certain bits of shore along the Gulf of Finland. 
 We descend steadily, reaching the lowlands by a complicated 
 series of loops and curves. 
 
 318 K. Andocutin , a poor station in a sheltered valley, 
 with Cuitzeo Lake visible to the r. Tall hills rise on the 1. 
 We skirt the shore of the lake for several miles. Just before 
 reaching 324 K. Huingo, we cross a large tract devoted to the 
 production of salt. The method is very primitive. The earth 
 from the old lacustrine deposits is shovelled into huge hoppers, 
 water is poured in, the salt is taken up in solution and the 
 briny water is then run out on to shallow wood pans where 
 it is allowed to evaporate. The process is slow and the returns 
 are meagre. The product is shipped to adjacent towns and 
 sold to the poorer classes. Many conical hills of refuse earth dot 
 the region. We continue to skirt the shore of the lake. Hard 
 by is a primitive club-house, or shooting-box, the resort of 
 Mexico City sportsmen. 
 
 330 K. Coro, on the edge of the lake (Cuitzeo), which here 
 is sprinkled with reeds and alive with water-fowl. 337 K. 
 Querendaro, at the S. end of the lake. We penetrate a region 
 of tall nopal cacti and mesquite. 340 K. Zinzimeo, a neg- 
 lected town in a broad valley with only the sunshine to 
 recommend it. 351 K. Quirio. 358 K. Charo , a poor town 
 (1 M. to 1. of station, 1,000 inhab.) with a single ch. and a 
 commanding tower. 
 
 Hence to Morelia (see p. 202) via 364 K. La Goleta, and 367 
 K. Atapaneo, it is up-grade and the train winds in and out 
 among the hills. We approach the town from the E. and half- 
 circle it to the station at the S.-W. The towers of the cathe- 
 
202 Route 39. 
 
 MORELIA 
 
 dral (p. 204) rise picturesquely above the houses and dom- 
 inate the surrounding country. For a continuation of the 
 journey see p. 209. 
 
 39. Morelia. 
 
 Arrival. Rly. restaurant, meals $1. Tram-cars ( tranvias de Morelia) 
 meet trains and run to the centre of the town. Fare 6 c. (double after 
 10 p. m. . Time about 8 min. Distance 1 M. to the Plaza Mayor. Lug- 
 gage checks should be given to the hotel runner or the manager. 
 Trunks. 50 c. There are but few cabs in the town, as the tram-cars run 
 to all points. It is well to remember that the tranvias sometimes start 
 for the station a half-hour or so before the train leaves. If this last car is 
 missed the journey must be made on foot. The centre of the town is 
 advertised by the Cathedral towers (Pl.C, 3) visible from the station. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). H otel del J ardin (PI. D, 3), First CalleNacional 
 (or Real), No. 10. German-American. Rooms only, 50 c. to $1.50. 
 The latter are the best and face the street. The side rooms are ventilated 
 through the door which looks out on the patio. The small rooms in the 
 rear 75 c.) are preferable. Meals, 60 c. Tram-cars pass the door. — Gran 
 Hotel Morelos (PI. D, 3), Calle Nacional, 13, $2-$3, Am. PI. 
 
 Banks. Banco del Estado de Mexico , 
 
 Shops. The best are on the Calle Real (or Nacional) and in the 
 portales. 
 
 Morelia (6,200 ft.), capital of the State of Michoacan, 
 pop. 37,300, was founded May 18, 1541, by the Viceroy Don 
 Antonio de Mendoza, under the name of Valladolid, because 
 of its resemblance to the Spanish city of that name — the 
 Moorish Belad-W ali, “land of the Governor/’ To differentiate 
 it from other Valladolid '$ in New Spain, it was called T 7 . de 
 Michoacan. To the resident Indians the spot on which the 
 new town was founded was known as El Valle de Guayan- 
 gareo. The city is celebrated in Mexican history as the birth- 
 place of the revolutionary patriot, Jose Maria Morelos y Pavon, 
 in whose memory a legislative decree of Sept. 12, 1828, gave 
 the place its present name. 
 
 Two causes are said to have contributed to the selection 
 of the rich Valley of Guayangareo as the site for the town: 
 its strategic importance with relation to the subjugation of 
 the Indians of the district, and those of the contiguous State 
 of Jalisco, and because of its delightful climate, supplemented 
 by the beautiful blue sky which arches above it. It bears 
 a relation to Massachusetts and to Virginia, in the U. S. A., 
 in that many of the nobility selected the place as their home 
 in the New World. The town is celebrated in Spanish song 
 and story for its lovely Spanish women and for the purity of 
 the spoken language. 
 
 “It would seem,” says Mr. Baxter, “as if some great artist in civic 
 design as well as in architecture must have taken it upon himself to 
 realize his ideal in the setting of a most charming city amid a landscape 
 of rare beauty: crowning the whole with an adorable masterpiece (the 
 Cathedral), which to a rarely satisfying degree combines elegance with 
 dignity in perfect proportions. In its every aspect Morelia still bears out 
 the delightful statement of the Augustinian friar, Diego Basalenque , who 
 in his chronicle of its foundation uses these words: 
 
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 MORELIA 
 
 39. Route. 203 
 
 44 ‘The Viceroy Mendoza found a very charming site for a city, having 
 the seven qualities which Plato declares such a site should have; ana 
 there he founded a city with the name of his own country, Valladolid, 
 joining together some of the most noble people that were to be found in 
 all the earth to be its citizens, so that at once a small but very noble city 
 was there.’ 
 
 “In the midst of a valley luxuriant with the vegetation developed by 
 rich cultivation in a perfect climate, and surrounded by high mountains 
 with nobly rounded summits, stands the gentle elevation upon which 
 the city is built, in form something like an inverted saucer. At the 
 highest point stands the Cathedral, flanked by two large open spaces with 
 beautiful gardens — the Plaza de los Mdrtires and the Plaza de laPaz .” 
 
 The Rio Chiquito flows along the S. edge of the town, 
 uniting at the W. with the Rio Grande , which courses along the 
 N. suburb and crosses the Calzada de Santiaguito. Toward 
 the E. rises the Cerro de Punhuato; at the N.-W. is the Pico 
 de Quinceo (10,985 ft.), and cutting the S. sky-line, rising 
 to a height of 10,000 ft., is the Cerro de San Andres. The 
 picturesque pueblo to the S. of the town is Santa Maria 
 de la Asuncion. That at the N. is Santiaguito (Little 
 Jimmy). 
 
 Morelia is locally celebrated for delicious dulces (sweets) 
 made of quince ( membrillo , Pyrus Cydonia ) and for a palatable 
 wine called Vino de membrillo. 
 
 The town is unusually healthy, and in 1908 one of the 
 inhabitants died at the advanced age of 115 years. She lived 
 in the Calle de la Carreras , which, curiously enough, is con- 
 sidered the healthiest street in the place, inasmuch as many 
 of the persons who dwell here are between 80 and 90 years old. 
 During the cholera epidemics of 1833 and 1850 the people 
 flocked to this street, believing that once there they would be 
 exempt from attack. 
 
 The Climate is dry, uniform and thoroughly delightful. The 
 location ensures excellent drainage. The streets radiate from 
 the central plaza and wind downward to the environing mead- 
 ows. The place bears the somewhat unfortunate distinction 
 of being plagued by fleas ( pulgas ). The climate seems just 
 suited to their vigorous development and they await the 
 coming of the traveller with an appetite which reflects doubt 
 on the toothsomeness of the Morelianos. 
 
 At the outbreak of the War for Independence (1810) Morelia 
 had a population of 20,000. It was a sort of headquarters for 
 revolucionarios , and the Spaniards hunted them there with 
 unabated diligence. A year after the war was on, many of 
 the houses were in ruins from bombardment, grass grew in the 
 streets and, because of the almost unexampled cruelty of 
 the Spanish Colonel, Torcuato Trujillo , all but about 3,000 
 of the inhabitants had left or been killed. Many of the present 
 structures date from a period soon after the close of the 
 war. It is a reliquary of the revolution. Chief among the old 
 historic houses is one (near the San Agustin church) where, 
 
204 Route 39. 
 
 MORELIA 
 
 Cathedral. 
 
 according to the inscription let into the wall, “The immortal 
 Jose Maria Morelos was born, Sept. 30, 1765.” Tradition 
 has it that Don Manuel Morelos, a carpenter by trade, lived 
 near the Prendimiento Chapel. The Sehora Doha Juana 
 Pavon (his wife), surprised in the street by the pangs of child- 
 birth, darted into the nearest house, fortunately that of a 
 friend, and bore the child that was in later years to be one 
 of the liberators of Mexico. The house in which Morelos lived, 
 on the corner of the First Calle de Morelos and the Ninth 
 Iturbide (PI. D, 3), was originally of but one story ; the upper 
 floor was added in 1809. In the salon of this house is preserved 
 the handkerchief which bound the patriot’s eyes on the day 
 of his execution (Dec. 22, 1815) at San Cristobal Ecatepec . 
 The inscription on the fagade, in Spanish, reads : 
 
 “ Illustrious Morelos! Immortal Hero! In this house, 
 honored by thy presence, the grateful people of Morelia sa- 
 lute you! ” An historic house is No. 2 in the Fourth Calle de 
 Allen de, the one-time residence of Don Melchor Ocampo , a 
 celebrated patriot, and for whom the State of Michoacan is 
 named. There is a monument to him, in the Plaza de la Paz. 
 The patriot Don Santos Degollado dwelt in the house number 
 of the Second Calle de Matamoros. During his residence in 
 Morelia, the Austrian Archduke Maximilian lived in the house 
 No. 1 at the corner of the Primera Matamoros and Cuarta 
 Aldama. An inscription on the fagade of the house in the 
 Primera Calle de Iturbide says: “Agustin de Iturbide, Liber- 
 ator of Mexico, was born in this house, Sept. 27, 1783.” 
 
 La Plaza Principal (PI. C, 3), commonly known as the Jar- 
 din de los Mdrtires (garden of the Martyrs), is a quadrangular, 
 flower-embowered spot adjacent to the Cathedral, on the W. 
 
 In a commanding position in this plaza is a fine statue to 
 Morelos. On the scroll in the hand of the figure is inscribed, 
 “Liberty to the Slaves, Oct. 5, 1813.” On the marble tablets 
 are these inscriptions: 
 
 “ He was born in this city, Sept. 30, 1765, and he died 
 for his country, in the village of Ecatepec, Dec. 22, 1815.” — 
 “ He was Commander-in-Chief and the recipient of the Su- 
 preme Executive Power of the Nation in the War for Inde- 
 pendence.” — “ Leader in the Cause of Liberty, he proclaimed 
 Republican principles and established the First Mexican Con- 
 gress in Apatzingan, in 1813.” — “He crowned his glory and 
 heroism by the immortal defence of Cuauhtla in 1812.” — 
 The anniversary of the birth of Morelos is celebrated annu- 
 ally throughout the Republic. 
 
 The Cathedral (PI. C, 3), begun in 1640 by Bishop Marcos 
 Ramirez de Prado and completed in 1744, faces N., stands be- 
 tween the Plazas de la Paz and de los M artires, and is, perhaps, 
 the most beautiful of all the Mexican churches. “For an edi- 
 fice whose erection extended over so long a period it has sin- 
 
Cathedral . 
 
 MORELIA 
 
 39. Route. 205 
 
 gular unity and coherence of style, indicating that the orig- 
 inal designs must have been faithfully followed. It took until 
 1706 to carry it far enough for dedication. Even then the 
 towers were not built, and it was not until 1744 that they were 
 completed. The building material is a pinkish trachyte. It 
 is the only church edifice of any note in Mexico built in the 
 Plateresque style ; a circumstance that lends it special interest. 
 It therefore lacks the florid quality that characterizes Mexi- 
 can architecture as a rule. Its magnificent proportions are 
 distinguished by a striking delicacy of line — low-relief or- 
 nament concentrated in the customary Spanish fashion be- 
 tween the extraordinarily broad and massive tower-bases, 
 about the transept portals and upon the exquisitely graceful 
 towers whose glorious lightness increases with their height. 
 An excellent example of comparatively modern Mexican iron- 
 work is furnished by the iron gates and fence about the 
 atrium erected in 1854.” (Sylvester Baxter.) 
 
 The enormous stone-flagged atrium extends around three 
 sides of the structure, which has four entrances; two facing 
 N., one E., and one W. The two tiled domes are curiously 
 small for so large a building. The carvings in low relief above 
 the entrances are fine examples of old work. The immensely 
 tall towers (210 ft. high) are provided with clusters of electric 
 arc-lights and the effect at night is very attractive. The lamps 
 are beacons visible for miles around. More than 2,000 elec- 
 tric lamps are used to illuminate the interior of the ch. 
 
 The Interior was once celebrated for its massive silver 
 communion-railing and ornaments of sterling character. 
 These to the value of $400,000 were removed by the order 
 of tl^e Federal Government, Sept. 23, 1858, because the ch. 
 refund to pay a war contribution of $100,000. The interior 
 was re-decorated in 1899 in the modern style, and all the su- 
 perb decorations of the old days were destroyed. Several of 
 the altars were replaced in 1875. Unlike other Mexican cathe- 
 drals the nave of this one is filled with seats and these, coupled 
 with the not wholly inharmonious brown and gold decorations, 
 give it the air of a foreign ch. Both the nave and the fine 
 aisles are paved with mosaic tiling. The massive piers are 
 attractive. The splendid carved wood organ-case, with gilded 
 pipes, above the main entrance, is noteworthy. Behind one 
 of the piers of the tabernaculo, now enclosed by a heavy marble 
 railing, is a smaller organ which is used in the daily services. 
 The polychrome pictures in high relief representing the sta- 
 tions of the cross, adorning the pilasters, are of German origin. 
 Light is admitted through a fine series of oval windows which 
 in a Gothic ch. would be those of the clerestory. Almost every 
 inch of the interior is decorated and the effect is somewhat 
 mazy, with an unpleasant suggestion of newness. The relicario 
 of the high altar is of finely chiselled gold and silver, indicative 
 
206 Route 39. 
 
 MORELIA 
 
 Palacio. 
 
 of what the quality of the sequestrated ornaments must have 
 been. The sillcria of the coro is carved and gilded. The 
 oval picture (on the r.) above, in a gilt frame, represents 
 the Flight into Egypt. The companion picture opposite 
 is San Esteban ,• Protomartyr . These pictures are unsigned, 
 but they are probably the work of Ibarra or Cabrera. The 
 sacristy, immediately to the r. of the presbiterio, contains (at 
 the r. of the entrance) a large picture representing the Doc- 
 tors of the Church: San Agustin, St. Tomas de Aquino and 
 San Buenaventura , unsigned and attributed to J . Rodriguez 
 Juarez. The allegorical picture just outside the sacristia, in 
 the r. aisle, facing the tabernaculo , is also attributed to this 
 painter. The best picture in the sacristy is a Christ Crucified, 
 unsigned and undated. The companion piece to this is a scene 
 from the Oracion del Huerto. The small portrait is of Bishop 
 Quiroga (comp. p. 212). The polychrome rood is of no merit. 
 In this room are two valuable old Chinese vases ( tibores ) used 
 as water-coolers. The ch. is supposed to possess a number of 
 relics (never shown to visitors) ; noteworthy among them an 
 alleged piece of the True Cross ; the bodies of the martyred 
 saints Pio and Cristobal; the arms of San Lucio, San Froilan 
 and San Feliciano, and minor objects. In the sagrario is the 
 baptismal font in which the patriot Jose Maria Morelos and 
 the Emperor Agustin de Iturbide were baptized. For reference 
 to the first cathedral and the first bishop of Michoacan, see 
 
 p. 211. 
 
 El Palacio de Gobierno, called Palacio de los Poderes del 
 Estado, facing the Cathedral, and with quaint turrets, was 
 formerly the Colegio Seminar io. It is a fine example of early 
 Spanish Colonial architecture, and it houses the State Library 
 ( Biblioteca del Estado) with 16,000 volumes, the government 
 archives, and certain of the government offices. 
 
 El Palacio de Justi'cia (PL C, 3), S. of the Plaza de los 
 Mdrtires; and the Palacio Municipal, in the l a Calle de Ma- 
 tamoros , contain patios in the old style. The Escuela de Aries, 
 adjacent to the old Church of La Compahia, also has an in- 
 teresting patio. 
 
 The Church and Convento of La Compania (PI. C, 3) 
 were built by the Jesuit Fathers in 1582. The tower is all that 
 remains of the old structure: around this, on the site of the 
 primitive convent, the present building was erected in 1681. 
 The edifice is one of the old landmarks. The fagade is an in- 
 teresting example of the 17th cent. work. 
 
 Flanking the Cathedral and the two plazas are (on the S.) 
 the Portales de Aldama and Allende ; on the N. the P. de Hidalgo 
 and Iturbide and on the W. that of Matamoros. Let into a 
 pillar of the latter portal is a tablet with the inscription : “ For 
 having defanded the cause of Mexican Independence, the meri- 
 torious citizen Mariano Matamoros was shot here, Feb. 3, 1814, 
 
MORELIA 39. Route. 207 
 
 by order of the Spanish Government.” The tablet was erected 
 by the Patriotic League of 1860. 
 
 El Colegio Primitivo y Nacional de San Nicolds de Hidalgo 
 (PI. C, 3), called, for short, El Colegio de San Nicolds (St. Nicho- 
 las College), founded in Patzcuaro, in 1540, by Bishop Vasco 
 de Quiroga , is the oldest collegiate relic in Mexico, and was 
 the second of its kind in the New World. The first was that of 
 Santa Cruz Tlaltelolco , founded in the City of Mexico in 1537 
 and razed more than a century ago. When Fray Juan Medina 
 Rincon moved the Episcopal Diocese from Patzcuaro, he also 
 removed the old college, which was transferred to Valladolid 
 and there merged (Oct. 10, 1580) with a similar institution, 
 established by Fray Juan de San Miguel and called Colegio 
 de S. Miguel. A law-school was added to the college by a 
 royal order dated Nov. 23, 1787. The trust for its maintenance 
 was confiscated by the revolutionary patriots in 1810 and 
 from that time until Jan. 17, 1847, it was clausurado. The 
 patriot priest Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla studied and taught 
 philosophy and theology here, and Jose Maria Morelos was 
 one of his pupils. Agustin de Iturbide also studied here. 
 
 The inscription on the house at the corner of the Calles 
 Segundo de Morelos and Real (PL D, 3) says: “ In this house in 
 1809 the first secret meeting of patriots who conspired to secure 
 Mexican Independence was held.” 
 
 At the top of the street leading up from the rly. station is 
 a mediocre monument with a statue representing ‘‘Peace.” 
 
 La lglesia de las Monjas Catarinas (PL D, 3), in the Calle 
 Real , has a number of large allegorical paintings of no par- 
 ticular merit. Next door is the handsome and imposing 
 Colegio de Guadalupe with the Latin inscription: Non fecit 
 taliter omni natione et judicia sua non manifestavit eis. 
 
 The Church of San Francisco (PL D, 3) was founded in 1531 
 and is in consequence one of the oldest in Mexico. The date, 
 1610, over the main portal, refers to its completion. It was 
 renovated in 1828. A local tradition refers to a secret passage 
 which is supposed to lead from the crypt to the meadow on the 
 edge of the city ; presumably dug by the Spaniards who used 
 the ch. as a fortress. Several chapels of this ch. were de- 
 stroyed in 1872 to make space for the adjacent market. 
 
 The Church of Nuestra Sehora de Socorro (PL C, 3), founded 
 in 1550, belonged to the Augustine monks (it is still called 
 San Agustin ) and contains a much venerated image of the 
 Virgin, presented to the ch. by Santo Tomas de Villanueva. 
 It was begun in 1650, on the site of former ch., and was com- 
 pleted some years later. Among the ch. relics is a portrait 
 of Fray Alonzo de la Cruz , founder of the University of Mexico 
 (1552); Fray Juan Bautista , the “Apostle of the Tierra 
 Caliente” (died Dec. 20, 1567), and one of the historian Diego 
 Basalenque, who died in 1651. 
 
208 Route 39, 
 
 MORELIA 
 
 La Iglesia del Carmen (PL D, 2), erected in 1596 and re- 
 novated in 1839, contains some pictures by Jose and Nicolas 
 Juarez and a portrait (attributed to Cabrera) of the Bishop 
 P ala fox y Mendoza. 
 
 There are nearly a score of churches in Morelia, most of 
 them without interest to the traveller. 
 
 El Museo Michoacano is of interest to residents chiefly. 
 In a glass case is preserved the wooden leg of the redoubtable 
 General Santa Anna , see p. 506. 
 
 There are one or two very good private collections of 
 antiques in Morelia, but they are not accessible to travellers. 
 
 At the east terminus of the Calle Real (PI. E, 3) is the city 
 end of the fine old Aqueduct, which was begun in 1785 and 
 completed in 1789 at a cost of 8100,000. This sturdy old relic 
 of the Spanish dominion in Mexico brings potable water into 
 the town from the distant mountain springs of Carindapaz, 
 El Moral and San Miguel del Monte. A line of terra-cotta 
 pipes winds around the Cerro del Rincon and leads the water 
 into the aqueduct in the valley. There are 254 arches, each 
 27 ft. high and 18 ft. wide. The vast structure enters the town 
 from the S.-E. near the Calle Real, which it crosses before 
 making three sharp turns and skirting the little Jar din de Vil - 
 lalongin. On the great arch which spans the entrance to the 
 Paseo de Guadalupe is a Spanish inscription advising that “ This 
 work is due to the piety, beneficence and charity of the illus- 
 trious Sehor Doctor Don Fray Antonio de San Miguel, the most 
 worthy Bishop of Michoacan, who constructed it at great 
 personal cost. The Municipality of Valladolid erected this 
 tablet to his memory in 1788 and renewed it in 1884; the 
 Licentiate Pudenciano Dor antes being then Governor of the 
 State.” On the companion arch is a similar tablet bearing 
 a Latin translation of the above. 
 
 The Calzada de Guadalupe (a raised stone causeway 400 ft. 
 long by 40 ft. broad) leads S.-E. from the Calle Real (at the 
 aqueduct crossing) and is a continuation thereof. It was con- 
 structed in 1732 by the order of Bishop Calatayud to provide 
 an easy and pleasant approach to the (uninteresting) Santu- 
 ario de Guadalupe at the E. terminus. This shaded and rest- 
 ful promenade is a sort of local Poet's Walk. Many of the giant 
 elms which once adorned it, and which were planted by the 
 Spanish Intendente Juan Antonio Riano (comp. p. 139), have 
 perished. At the end of the walk, opposite the church, is the 
 small Jardin de los Aztecas, with some Indian monoliths and 
 fragments of stone idols. The half-wild park to the right of 
 the santuario is called the Paseo Viejo. 
 
 Passing beneath the aqueduct (at the Paseo Viejo) we come 
 to the sylvan Bosque de San Pedro (PI. E, 4), laid out in sym- 
 metrical avenidas that are beautifully shaded and named for 
 poets, musicians and military heroes. In the centre is a music 
 
PATZCUARO 
 
 40 . Route. 209 
 
 kiosk, a small lake, and one or more cages of wild animals. 
 The edge of the park is dotted with pretty bungalows. This 
 bosque is a source of civic pride to the Morelianos. 
 
 The walk across the meadows to the end of the acueducto , 
 — covered in some places with beautiful climbing Bougain- 
 villea (see p. 442) — thence on toward the springs which supply 
 the water, is interesting. 
 
 Morelia , see p. 202. The grade ascends through a tree-dotted 
 valley hemmed in by mts. 385 K. La Huerta. The line curves 
 sharply to the r. and we enter a rocky region with lakes in the 
 lower reaches. The railway describes a great horseshoe curve, 
 and as we climb the hills we obtain splendid vistas in re- 
 trospect. From 390 K. Monterrubio, the view of the valley 
 sprinkled with herds of grazing cattle and flanked by blue 
 mt. peaks is beguiling. Morelia , perched on the uplands, is 
 seen in the distance, and near by are many lakelets in green 
 depressions of the hills. The best views are from the r. The 
 line follows terraces cut from the hills and soon enters the 
 picturesque Coincho Canon, with a whimpering river at the 
 bottom and a plunging waterfall at the far end. The grade is 
 steadily upward and the line makes many twists and turns. 
 In this district are some hot springs that are popular with 
 the Morelianos; the temperature of the water is about 100° 
 Fahr. Most of the streams hereabout are warm, with a trace 
 of muriatic acid in their insipid waters. 
 
 397 K. Juacuaro , a shipping-point for several large haciendas 
 in the vicinity. The line now slopes downward and we obtain 
 (to the 1.) fine views across many miles of rich and splendidly 
 cultivated valley-land. 407 K. Coapa. 414 K. Lagunilla. 420 
 K. Fontezuela. We enter a wooded region. Many lakes dot 
 the lowlands and the views are very pretty. We pass through 
 427 K. Chapultepec and a wild and rugged gorge of the same 
 name. As we emerge, the upper reaches of the beautiful Lake 
 Patzcuaro (p. 213) come into view on the r. 438 K. Playa. 
 We skirt the shore of the lake for several miles to 440 K. 
 Patzcuaro, see below. For a continuation of the journey 
 see p. 226. 
 
 40. Patzcuaro. 
 
 Arrival. The straggling town lies about 3 kilom. to the E. of the sta- 
 tion, out of sight behind the hills. The walk is a disagreeable one and 
 the traveller will do well to employ the tranvias ( Empresa de Tranvias de 
 Patzcuaro), which meet all trains; fare, 10 c.; time, 20 min. No cabs. 
 Hotel runners meet all trains and checks for luggage can be delivered to 
 them. Hand-bags on the tram-cars no charge. Trunks, 25c. The travel- 
 ler will do w r ell to bear in mind that on the return journey (from the 
 town to the station) the cars usually leave £ hr. before the arrival of the 
 train. Their movements are erratic and one should always be prepared 
 to walk, for which considerable time is requisite, as the road is cobble- 
 paved and difficult. The straining mules pull the cars up the long, stiff 
 grade slowly and laboriously. Cars pass the Plaza Chica and stop near 
 the Plaza Grande. 
 
210 Route 40 . 
 
 PATZCUARO 
 
 Hotels (comp.p. xlvii). Hotel Mercado, facing the Plaza Chica. Spanish 
 management and cuisine. Rooms only (best overlook the plaza), 75 c.; 
 meals, 60 c. each. Baths, 25 c. There are several other hotels, among 
 which there is no choice. 
 
 The Patzcuaro region is becoming a popular resort, and the rly. sells 
 excursion tickets from points as far distant as Mexico City 7 . Consult the 
 rly. folders and the newspapers. A good hotel, with bathing pavilions 
 and the usual attractions of a lakeside resort, is needed. 
 
 Patzcuaro (Tarascan = “ Place of Delights”), 7,180 ft. 
 above sea-level, with about 8,000 inhab., is a poor town, on 
 the slope of a small range of hills, which stands back from, 
 and overlooks, the fine lake of the same name. The narrow, 
 cobble-paved streets lead up and down the hillsides, and the 
 houses that flank them are quaint reminders of Spanish Colo- 
 nial days. Most of these houses are one story with projecting 
 roofs, supported by carved beams, which provide a sort of 
 overhanging shelter for pedestrians. Few Mexican towns are 
 more antiquated or more somnolent. Its mien confirms its 
 great age. The portales look as if the weight of many centuries 
 rested upon them. From the adjacent hills a fine view T of the 
 town and the lake can be obtained. 
 
 The Plaza Principal, called also Plaza Grande, to differentiate 
 it from the Plaza Chica one square to the N., is a wide, un- 
 kempt expanse with some corpulent ash-trees whose age 
 antedates that of the oldest surviving inhabitant. The town 
 is the metropolis for the Indian villages which stand on tlie 
 lake shore, and hither the Indians come with their garden 
 produce, fruits and wares. Among the latter are tiny bone 
 carvings, crudely hammered copper-vessels, small work- 
 boxes and primitive Indian curios and toys. The venders 
 always ask more than they expect to receive. The town is 
 supplied with water from a spring which, according to tradi- 
 tion. gushed forth from a rock struck by Bishop Quirogo's 
 staff. An altar once stood above the spring, and the staff is 
 preserved in the Morelia Cathedral. The region roundabout 
 is populated by Biscayans and Indians. Fine chirimoyas 
 are a product. 
 
 Patzcuaro was formerly noted for the production of an exquisite 
 feather-work which is described as being “made of the most beautiful 
 and delicate feathers, chiefly of the picaflores (humming-birds) which the 
 Indians called huitzitzilin. Several persons were employed on each 
 painting, in the blending of the colors and in the arrangement of the 
 feathers, as it was a work requiring extraordinary patience and nicety 7 . 
 The sketch of the figure was first made, and the proportions being 
 measured, each artist took charge of one particular part of the figure or of 
 the drapery. When each had finished his share, all the different parts 
 were reunited, to form the picture. The feathers were first taken up with 
 some soft substance with the utmost care, and fastened with a glutinous 
 matter upon a piece of stuff: then, the different parts being reunited, 
 were placed on a plate of copper, and gently polished, till the surface 
 became quite equal, when they appeared like the most beautiful paint- 
 ings or, more beautiful from the splendor and liveliness of the colors, 
 the bright golden, and blue, and crimson tints, than the painting which 
 they imitated. Many were sent to Spain, and to different museums both 
 
PATZCUARO 40. Route . 211 
 
 in Europe and Mexico: but the art is now nearly lost, nor does it belong 
 to the present utilitarian age .” 1 
 
 La Colegiata (formerly la Parroquia del Carmen ), on the 
 crest of a hill 5 min. walk to the E. of the Plaza Chica, dom- 
 inates the town and its environs and is the most historical 
 ch. in the place. When Patzcuaro was founded (1540) by 
 Vasco de Quiroga , the first bishop of the See of Michoacan, 
 the capital of the newly conquered kingdom was Tzintzuntzan, 
 but when the new site was decided upon the bishop ordered 
 a small cathedral to be erected for the 28 Castilian families 
 and the 30,000 Tarascans who history says then dwelt in 
 the neighborhood. The erection of this cathedral was sanc- 
 tioned by a Papal Bull of Julian III in 1550. Albeit in 1553 
 the Spanish King honored Patzcuaro with the title of ciudad , 
 and with an escudo de armas, the Episcopal See ( sede ) was 
 moved to Valladolid (now Morelia) and with it went the elab- 
 orate plans for the Cathedral. The nave only was constructed, 
 and this is of cathedral proportions. The structure was badly 
 shaken by an earthquake in 1845, and again joggled in 1858. 
 The brown stone facade, with its huge wheel window and 
 niches with life-size figures of Saints Matthew, Mark, Luke 
 and John, is comparatively recent. The unfinished tower im- 
 parts a crippled and odd appearance. The interior was decor- 
 ated in 1845 and again in 1907. Just within the doorway 
 is a finely carved wood screen ( cancel ) — an excellent example 
 of early Spanish craftsmanship. The two large paintings 
 on the r. and 1. wall, near the entrance, the Holy Family 
 and the Assumption of the Virgin , are the work of Ignacio 
 Velasco (1851) of the Mexico School. The florid coloring is a 
 feeble attempt to produce work in the Murillo style. At one 
 of the altars is a painting of the Virgin and Child with real 
 gold crowns and necklaces appliqued on the canvas. Above 
 the entrance to the Capilla del Santo Nino (1. of the main en- 
 trance) is a quaint painting, La Madre Santisima de la Luz , 
 unsigned but of undoubted antiquity. This chapel was a part 
 of the original ch. The chapel opposite the old bautisterio 
 contains a fine Crisio Crucified , unsigned and undated. The 
 tall Altar Mayor at the E. end of the huge nave is supported 
 by four great pillars, dates from 1907, and was made to re- 
 ceive the much venerated image of Nuestra Madre Santisima 
 
 1 This ancient Tarascan handicraft has its counterpart in the fine 
 Cantonese work which is a specialty of the Province of Kwangtung in 
 Southern China. From time immemorial the Cantonese craftsmen have 
 produced this exquisite bird-wing enamel, employing the lustrous coating 
 of the wings of the blue-jay and the humming-bird. The finished articles 
 are much prized by the imperial family and by Mandarins, by whom it is 
 worn as jewellery, especially hair-ornaments. It is even more beautiful 
 than the productions of the Tarascan craftsmen, and it would be in- 
 teresting to know from whom these Indians of Mexico obtained their 
 inspiration. 
 
212 Route If). 
 
 PATZCUARO 
 
 de la Salud (made by the order of Bishop Quiroga), which 
 formerly occupied a sanctuary in the conventual church ol 
 that name, across the street from the Church of La Compahia. 
 The Indians attribute miraculous healing powers to this 
 image, and they make long and wearisome pilgrimages ( pere - 
 grinaciones ) to pray before it. The Parroquia was elevated 
 to the category of a Colegiata (comp, p.cxvi) by a Papal edict 
 of Pope Pius X, June 29, 1907, and the image was removed 
 with fitting ceremonies and great rejoicing, Jan. 8, 1908. 
 The largest bell in the campanario has an unusually sweet 
 tone — which can be heard far out on the lake. 
 
 The Church of La Compahia do Jesus, a short walk S. of 
 the Parroquia , and one block E. of the Plaza Principal , at 
 the top of the Calle Portugal , contains, at the 1. of the high 
 altar, a long marble tablet with a Latin inscription referring 
 to the life of the good Bishop Quiroga } Directly back of this, 
 in a smali chapel, is an urn locked in a modern steel office safe, 
 marked with the bishop’s name and containing his ashes. 
 Facing the niche in the wall containing the safe is a small 
 altar with a quaint old painting of the Virgin and Child. 
 The ch. is dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus. 
 
 The Church of San Agustin, facing the N. side of the Plaza 
 Chica, is interesting only in that it is one of the oldest 
 Spanish foundations in the town. At the other end of the 
 street from La Colegiata , to the 1. of the Plaza , is the weather- 
 beaten Santuario de Nuestra Sehora de Guadalupe , dedicated 
 to that Virgin. It is uninteresting, but from the tower a com- 
 manding view of the lake and the countryside is to be had. 
 
 The best view of the town and the lake is had from El 
 Cerro del Calvario (Hill of Calvary), 15 min. walk (W.) from 
 the Plaza Chica. We follow the street leading up to the 
 Santuario de Guadalupe , pass this on the left and proceed along 
 a very rocky and hilly road through the tawdry suburbs. 
 Near the summit of the cerro is the old Church of Calvario , with 
 an uninteresting interior. Leading therefrom to the summit 
 is an unkempt road flanked by stone seats ( lunetas ) placed 
 
 1 Vasco de Quiroga was an eminent lawyer who by prudence, tact and 
 benevolence became a prominent figure in New Spain. The Emperor, 
 Charles V, selected him to redeem, as far as possible, the cruelties in- 
 flicted on the harmless Tarascans by the miserable and misguided Nuno 
 de Guzman , and to win back their confidence. At the urgent request of his 
 sovereign, Quiroga took holy orders, was quickly raised through the 
 successive grades of the priesthood, was consecrated as a bishop and 
 repaired to his diocese in the Church of San Francisco in Tzintzuntzan 
 Aug. 22, 1538; being then 68 years old. By the exercise of limitless 
 patience and a host of good works he finally gained the confidence of the 
 Indians, many of whom he converted to Christianity. He died at Urua- 
 pan March 14, 1565, at the age of 96 years. He was to Michoacan what 
 Fray Pedro de Ganie was to the Valley of Mexico, and Bartolome de las 
 Casas to the Indians of Southern Mexico; and his memory is still fresh 
 and sweet in the hearts of the natives of this region. 
 
LAKE PATZCUARO Jfl. Route. 213 
 
 in position by the local ayuntamienlo . The view of the lake 
 and the many villages and islands which dot it is very beguil- 
 ing. A good glass will materially aid one. The hamlets of 
 Santa Ana , Guecorio, Xanicho , Eronguaricuaro, San Pedro 
 and Taretan are visible to the naked eye. Tzintzuntzan, 
 Quiroga (pop. 5,000) and many other smaller towns lie behind 
 the hills to the r. The town on the farther shore, in line with 
 the island of Xanicho, is Cantabria. The hills in the immediate 
 vicinity are called C irate, Buena Vista, Cerro del Mono, 
 C. de San Rafael, C. de la Oreja, etc. The railway line leading 
 around the base of the hills extends to Uruapan-, see p. 227. 
 
 Returning from El Calvario we pass down between the stone 
 seats, leave the ch. on the r., emerge from the enclosure 
 through a huge turn-stile and follow the wide, cobble-paved 
 road leading townward beneath wide-spreading elms. Form- 
 erly there were 14 stations of the Cross along this road, and 
 pilgrims reached the summit of the hill after doing penance 
 by the wayside. Certain of the niches where these symbols 
 stood are still to be seen let into the houses which flank the 
 street. The first from the town is on the wall of the weather- 
 beaten Church of San Francisco, at the S. corner of the ragged 
 little plazuela. 
 
 EXCURSION FROM PATZCUARO TO LAKE PATZCUARO. 
 
 A gasoline launch plies for hire on the lake and it can be chartered 
 (consult the hotel manager) by parties wishing to visit the different 
 points of interest. Fares vary with the time and the number of persons. 
 A bargain should be struck before embarking. Travellers who prefer to 
 tour the lake in one of the Indian dug-outs should come to a clear under- 
 standing with the owner of the boat before starting. The Indians demand 
 absurd prices and long dickering is sometimes necessary to bring them to 
 reason and equitable terms. The usual fare from Patzcuaro to Tzintzun- 
 tzan (p. 215) and return is $5 for the boat, irrespective of the number of 
 passengers. Time 3-6 hrs., depending on the weather. A pair of blue 
 goggles and an umbrella are almost necessary, as during the trip the 
 glare of the sun reflected on the water is apt to prove trying, particularly 
 to weak eyes. A stiff breeze sometimes blows up in the early afternoon 
 and lasts till sundown and the water is apt to be choppy. In nearly all 
 cases the launch is preferable. The charge for a horse from Patzcuaro 
 to Tzintzuntzan and return is SI. A guide (necessary) SI, and for his 
 horse another $1. Time about 3 hrs. each way. The road skirts the W. 
 end of the lake. The Indian boats usually hug the E. shore on the out- 
 ward voyage. The advantage of the boat trip lies in the possibility of 
 touching at the small islands en route. One also gets good views of the 
 native fishermen who, armed with a pole and a net like unto that of a 
 butterfly-catching professor, stand in the stern of their primitive crafts 
 and dip out the unwary fish. A good pedestrian will prefer to start from 
 Patzcuaro early in the morning and make the round of the lake on foot. 
 The going is good and the views inspiring. A guide should always be 
 taken along. Tzintzuntzan stands on the E. shore, spread over two low 
 hills near the water edge. 
 
 Lake Patzcuaro, 6,717 ft. above sea-level (f of a mile 
 higher than the summit of Mt. Washington), an irregular- 
 shaped body of fresh water 13 M. long from N.-E. to S.-W. and 
 
214 Route. 40. LAKE PATZCUARO 
 
 30 M. in circumference, is one of the highest navigable lakes 
 in Mexico. The shores are studded with Tarascan villages, 
 20 or more standing directly on the beach. Chief among the 
 small islands are Xanicho (pop. 1,500), Xaracuaro (pop. 200), 
 Pacanda , Yuyuan, and Tecuen. The dwellers on these exag- 
 gerated cameos on a grayish-green sea live much to themselves, 
 disliking and mistrusting their neighbors and mixing with 
 the outer world as little as possible. They paddle about the 
 lake in primitive log dug-outs and make their living by fish- 
 ing and hunting the wild-fowl with which, in certain seasons, 
 the region abounds. The best fish - — usually caught in nets — 
 is the pescado bianco. The acumeras , tiros and other fish are 
 of dark meat and not so palatable as their white brethren. 
 A product frequently seen in the Indian markets is the sala- 
 mander (axolotl, comp. p. 500), of which the natives are fond. 
 Fishing-trips can be planned 'with the aid of the hotel manage- 
 ment in Patzcuaro. A dug-out manned by two or more men, 
 with a seating capacity for six or more, can usually be hired 
 for about So a day. The Indians will supply fishing-tackle. 
 
 The natives are expert hunters of the wild-fowl which haunt 
 the lake. Some use a primitive throwing-stick (somewhat 
 similar to one used by the Australian aborigines) with a triple- 
 pointed iron tip and a tsipahki or launching sheath, which has 
 two holes for the fingers and a groove in which the spear- 
 shaft lies. At certain seasons — usually just prior to the 
 fiesta in honor of their tutelary saint — the Tarascans plan 
 hunting expeditions, in which fifty or more dug-outs take 
 part; the game sought being ducks, geese and widgeons. 
 Each boat, manned by three or four men, proceeds toward a 
 spot in the lake where the birds are known to assemble ; they 
 approach in the form of a crescent and the fowl are concen- 
 trated at a point near shore. At a given signal the men rise 
 and hurl their barbed spears among the half-tame birds. If 
 one is hit the spear remains in a half-upright position ; if not, 
 it floats on the water and is soon recovered by its owner. Such 
 expeditions may last several days and nights and the meat of 
 the hundreds of birds secured is made into savory tamales. 
 
 Xanicho Island is very pretty when seen from the mainland ; 
 near to it is seen to be rocky and somewhat barren. The 
 guide shows a cavern in the rocks where Indian idols have 
 been found. These caves are usually foul spots, the refuge 
 of bats t'/ nurcielagos ) and serpents (serpientes ) , and most trav- 
 ellers will be satisfied with a peep in at the entrance. Scat- 
 tered over the island are fragments of idols and the remains of 
 Indian sanctuaries. The small and poor church of San Gero - 
 nimo contains some Indian ornaments and votive offerings, 
 tinselly in character and uninteresting. Prominent among 
 them is a statue of the Virgin clad in a dress of Indian em- 
 broidery. Like most Indian churches this one contains a 
 
TZINTZUNTZAN Jfi. Route. 215 
 
 varied entomological congress which the visitor will feel even 
 if he does not see before he quits it. 
 
 Tzintzuntzan (pronounced sin- soon -sari) . an ancient Taras - 
 can town and one-time capital of the Tarascan Empire, about 
 14 M. across the lake from the town of Patzcuaro , is the show- 
 place of the region. It is now but a simulacrum of its former 
 greatness. It at one time extended over a distance of six miles 
 and the remains of this ancient city are still visible, in the 
 form of yacatas (mounds), T-shaped and running from E. 
 to W., on the crest of a low ridge near the present settlement. 
 Many idols made of volcanic stone have been taken from these 
 yacatas; prominent among them a figure called Jhuatzio , 
 resembling the famous Chac-Mool (p. 305) found by Dr. Le 
 Plongeon in Yucatan. Other interesting relics were obsidian 
 mirrors, velvety black with pale green veins : the largest known 
 antiques of this type have been excavated here. 
 
 The centre of attraction for all who visit Tzintzuntzan is 
 the Parish Church, which contains a celebrated painting, The 
 Descent from the Cross ( Decendimiento de la Cruz), which has 
 been variously attributed to Titian, to Cabrera, to Ibarra and 
 other noted painters. Certain critics find it very Titianesque, 
 particularly the bit of landscape in the upper left-hand cor- 
 ner, and they concur in thinking that it is from the brush of 
 this master or that of a very adept pupil. “ The drawing of 
 each figure, the gradations of light and shade, the marvellous 
 composition, the relief and the modelling of the Christ, the 
 low but luminous tones in which it is painted, the superb har- 
 mony of these tones, all pronounce it the work of a very 
 skillful craftsman. Though painted perhaps three centuries or 
 more ago the colors are still fresh, rich and pure. The dry 
 atmosphere of the region has preserved it in an admirable way. 
 The picture is enclosed in a splendid carved frame, about 15 
 ft. long by 6 ft. wide. It contains eleven figures, all life-size. 
 On a hill are three crosses in relief against an orange sky. In 
 the lower left hand is Mary Magdalen seated on the ground 
 contemplating the nails and the crown of thorns. The figure 
 of Christ supported in a sheet is carried to the tomb — a dark 
 cavern in the rear. Two men, Joseph and Nicodemus, hold the 
 sheet and support the head and the feet. Aiding also in this 
 tender office is a woman, the Holy Virgin, her head bowed 
 over the dead Christ.” Other prominent figures in the back- 
 ground are Si. John the Baptist, a figure believed to be St. 
 Peter, and one, at the extreme right, thought to be Philip II, 
 King of Spain. 
 
 The subject was a favorite one with the great Titian, who in turn was a 
 favorite with his royal patron, Felipe II. The glorious voluntary on can- 
 vas, in the Museo Nacional de Pintura y Escultura at Madrid, was painted 
 expressly for Philip by Titian when the latter was in his 82 d year. It is 
 quite within the range of probability that the King either ordered this 
 
216 Route 40. 
 
 TZINTZUNTZAN 
 
 picture painted expressly for Bishop Quiroga or selected it from one of 
 the 40 splendid Titians in the royal collection. Certain critics believe it 
 was painted for the occasion, which accounts for the King’s appearance 
 in the group. According to the sacristan many offers have been made 
 for it; one of 50,000 pesos, but the Indian parishioners refused to sanction 
 its removal. 
 
 Mr. Baxter differs with the many critics who pronounce the picture a 
 Titiano. He says: “A comparison of the picture with others by Titian, 
 particularly that of the Entombment at Madrid and that of the 
 Louvre, indicates a style very different from that of the great Italian. 
 In composition, it has no resemblance to the Madrid work, but it appears 
 to have something in common with that of the Louvre, suggesting a 
 reversal, as in a mirror, of the latter picture. In characterization, how- 
 ever, it is radically different from these and other sacred subjects from 
 the hand of Titian. It manifestly lacks the intense emotionalism, the 
 impassioned movement, of the Titian compositions. It is distinguished 
 by great tenderness, a lofty reverence, and a sublimation of emotion 
 under a realizing sense of the spiritual significance of the event. This 
 mood is very unlike that which induces the vivid action customary in 
 Titian’s figures — as instanced in the frenzied grief of the Saint John in 
 the Louvre Entombment and the chastened, prayerful sorrow of the be- 
 loved disciple in this work. The style, on the whole, seems more that 
 of some Spanish master. The realistic Spanish spirit, however, as it in- 
 forms the dramatic naturalism of a w r ork like the Entombment of Ribera , 
 does not distinctively inspire this painting.” 
 
 It is customary to leave a small sum for charity with the padre who 
 shows the picture. 50 c. for one person or a peso for 3 or 4 is ample. 
 Not obligatory. 
 
 Facing the entrance to the Pcirroquia is a huge stone cross 
 around which the Indians assembled to be baptized when they 
 embraced the Christian faith at the time of the Conquest. 
 Some quaint, half-obliterated epitaphs are to be seen in the 
 old burying-ground. In the ruinous temple of La Soledad is 
 a niche adorned with ebony, tortoise-shell and silver. In 
 El Hospital , which was the second temple to be erected in the 
 town, are some very old images and a pulpit whence the bishop 
 Vasco de Quiroqa expounded the teachings of the Catholic 
 Church to the listening Indians four hundred years ago. In 
 the “Little Street of the Magdalen” are the ruins of an old 
 Franciscan convent, closed in 1740. Above the entrance 
 to the old cloister, and the tangled garden beyond, is the 
 inscription / Dios Santo , Dios Fuerte , Dios Inmortal! On 
 sections of the crumbling wall are fragments of mural paint- 
 ings. Hard by is an orchard of gnarled and decrepit olive- 
 trees ( olivos ), 1 perhaps the oldest on the continent and planted 
 by the nuns and monks of the first convent founded here. The 
 dilapidated cells which sheltered the long dead devotees can 
 still be traced amid the ruins. Note the quaint custom of 
 hanging the church-bells in the trees, to prevent their being 
 tumbled down and broken by earthquakes. 
 
 Iguatzio, a somnolent Indian pueblo adjacent to Tzintzun- 
 tzan, is connected therewith by a causeway made by the In- 
 
 1 “ The olive-tree, however classical , is very unpicturesque ; its ashy leaf 
 on a pollarded trunk reminds one of a second-rate willow, while it affords 
 neither shade, shelter nor colour.” 
 
History . 
 
 PURAPECHA INDIANS Ifl. Route. 217 
 
 dians before the Conquest. Many historic ruins are scattered 
 along it, and from them have been taken Indian weapons, 
 household utensils, idols and whatnot. The Plaza de Armas 
 occupies the one-time site of a great Indian teocalli (p. clxvii) 
 demolished by the Spanish friars. Two subterranean passage- 
 ways, w'alled with timber, run beneath the plaza , but they 
 remain unexplored. A similar passage was opened in Tzin- 
 tzuntzan in 1855, but the Indians refused to permit exploring 
 parties to enter and they promptly filled in the tunnel. The 
 Iguatzio underground road is supposed to be a continuation 
 of that of Tzintzuntzan. 
 
 The History of Michoacan, and particularly that of the 
 Lake Patzcuaro region, is closely linked with the annals of 
 the Purapecha Indians , commonly called the Tarascos. The 
 origin of this tribe is shrouded in mystery, though involved 
 in that of the North-American Indians who centuries ago 
 swarmed away from the parent race and moved southward to, 
 and across, the great plains of Mexico. This branch of the 
 many peoples emanating from that mysterious source was 
 greeted on the shore of Lake Patzcuaro by clouds of scintillat- 
 ing humming-birds, golden, copper and crimson tinted, 1 many 
 of which are still to be seen about the old town of Tzintzuntzan. 
 The wise men immediately took counsel among themselves 
 and announced to their followers that the beautiful creatures 
 had spoken to them in their ancient tongue, advising them 
 that they were the spirits of their tutelary gods assembled 
 to command that a great Tarascan city should be built there 
 and that the spot should henceforth become the home of their 
 nation. According to Prescott (vol. iii, appendix, p. 364) the 
 “ Tarascans have a tradition that Tezpi, their Noah , escaped 
 from the great flood in a boat filled with various kinds of 
 animals and birds. After some time, a vulture was sent out, 
 but remained feeding on the dead bodies of the giants, which 
 had been left on the earth, as the waters subsided. The 
 little humming-bird, huitzitzilin, was then sent forth and 
 returned with a twig in its mouth. The coincidence of this 
 account with the Hebrew and Chaldean narratives is obvious.” 
 
 When the Spaniards first visited the district (1522) Tzin- 
 tzuntzan contained 40,000 inhabitants and it was the capital 
 of the vast kingdom of Michoacan. The people employed in 
 their daily lives arts and sciences unknown to many other 
 tribes inhabiting New Spain. Conspicuous among their manual 
 arts was that of making beautiful pictures by cunningly 
 attaching the resplendent plumage of the wings of the hum- 
 
 1 There are over 50 kinds of humming-birds in Mexico, differing in 
 color and shape and forming a chromatic scale of brilliant tints, running 
 from se^-green through bluish-green to emerald, and from the lightest 
 straw color to the deepest scarlet and fiery red. Many of these beautiful 
 little feathered sprites haunt the honeysuckle-bowers of Mexico’s capital. 
 
21S Route 40. TARASCAN INDIANS 
 
 ming-birds to a fabric formed of maguey fibre (p. 210). “The 
 Conquistador es were amazed to find that many of these pic- 
 tures represented a supernatural Virgin, to which Purapeclia 
 legends refer.” 
 
 To this Indian stronghold Cortes sent his gold-seeking em- 
 issaries. The Tarascans had ever been a proud and virile 
 race — in contradistinction to the servile tribes in other parts 
 of Mexico — and when the inhuman Nuno de Guzman (presi- 
 dent of the first Audiencia ) led an army of 10,000 men into the 
 territory of Calzontzin, the Tarascan Cacique, he met with a 
 stout and unexpected resistance. In time the chieftain was 
 captured, and in order to wring treasure from him Guzman 
 had him burned to death over a slow fire, beside torturing 
 many of the head men of the nation. Maddened with terror 
 at the barbarous methods of the white men, the Indians fled 
 to the adjacent mountains and scattered through the con- 
 tiguous states of Jalisco , Guerrero and Guanajuato. Despite 
 the earnest efforts of the good Bishop Quiroga they never 
 regained complete trust in the alien. A few returned to the 
 old city, but the bulk of the nation settled in the Sierra de las 
 Tarascos (State of Michoacan), where their unmixed descend- 
 ants now dwell. The Indians of the mountains are very shy 
 and quickly retire into the house when a stranger approaches. 
 They still nurse an ineradicable dislike for foreigners, par- 
 ticularly white men. Some of the characteristics of the tribes 
 are peculiar and interesting. 
 
 Craftsmanship: The early Tarascos were expert builders 
 in stone, excellent .metal-workers, and were noted for their 
 fine woven cloths. Some very good curios of the old workman- 
 ship are occasionally met with in the Tarasco country; chief 
 among these are hardened copper, and silver and gold bells, 
 for which the district and the tribe are noted. These trinkets 
 were made usually in the form of turtles, hollow and with 
 little balls inside. They were used as rattles, and are provided 
 with a loop on the under side, by which they were attached 
 to the wearer’s leg. The pieces are usually of soldered wire 
 and filigree, highly prized because of their splendid workman- 
 ship and rarity. Small copper bells, exquisitely wrought, are 
 sometimes unearthed: they are made as American Indian 
 pottery often is, on the principle of coiling a rope of clay. 
 
 The tribe is credited with having possessed the secret of 
 tempering copper, which, tradition avers, was handed down 
 by word of mouth, by the ancients, along with the belief that 
 whosoever should reveal it to an outsider would meet a dis- 
 tressful death at the hands of the gods. That they were ex- 
 traordinarily clever in this line is shown by the tempered cop- 
 per axes and implements found near Jilotlan. Many curious 
 specimens of hardened copper have been found in the ancient 
 tombs scattered throughout the state. One of the chief in- 
 
TARASCAN INDIANS Jfl. Route . 219 
 
 dustries at present is indigo dyeing. Because of this, many 
 of the Tarascos carry blue finger-nails and they are called 
 Tecos (finger-nails) by their neighbors. The product of their 
 primitive looms is a species of blue rebozo (shawl) with a silken 
 border into which bird and animal designs are woven. The 
 most desirable come from the village of Paracho. Prices vary 
 with quality; $10 to $20 should secure a fine specimen. 
 Paracho is also renowned for dainty little inlaid toy guitars 
 (about four inches long) with mother-of-pearl and bone insets; 
 to be found in most of the curio-stores throughout the Republic. 
 The Tarascos make attractively decorated but very friable 
 pottery in the shape of bowls, pitchers, vases and a variety 
 of cooking-utensils (comp. lxx). 
 
 The present-day Tarascos lack the skill of their progenitors, 
 albeit they are an industrious lot. Each of their districts is 
 renowned for some specialty. Parangaricutiro produces 
 counterpanes; Uruapan (p. 227) is notedforits Tarasco lacquer- 
 ware, and near Patzcuaro (p. 209) the native energy expends 
 itself in the making of dug-out canoes. The modern ceramic 
 souvenirs are of little value. 
 
 The commercial idea is well developed and itinerant 
 Tarascan pedlars travel hundreds of miles, to distant cities, 
 to sell the pottery made by them. Time was when these 
 ambulating merchants carried their wares, pickaback, as 
 far north as New Mexico and southward to Guatemala. From 
 their stronghold the Tarascans tramp to Mexico City, 250 M. 
 distant, carrying huge crates of pottery, inlaid toy guitars, 
 wooden spoons, bowls, chocolate whirlers (molinillos) , blankets, 
 rope made from maguey fibre, Uruapan platters and cages of 
 semi-tropical birds. They return filled with pulque and laden 
 with cotton cloth and German gewgaws. On long journeys, 
 which often consume months of time, they live on scanty fare, 
 walk twice as far as would a loaded mule and carry crates 
 weighing from 100 to 150 lbs. From $5 to $12 is considered a 
 good profit for a month’s trip. 
 
 Characteristics: The Tarascan is small of stature, but 
 agile and quick of movement. Contrary to the usual Indian 
 custom the men wear beards and moustaches. They are 
 frugal, even in the use of water. A man bathes once a year, 
 a woman once a week. When th$ native rises in the morning 
 he washes his feet and face in a wooden trough kept for the 
 purpose. The operation is distasteful to him, but it is achieved 
 because of its religious import. The Tarasco lacks the North- 
 American Indian attribute of stoicism, and possesses a de- 
 cidedly choleric temperament, being easy to offend and quick 
 to show anger. When in a fury he is violent and unmanage- 
 able. The weapon usually employed in a disagreement is an 
 oak stick, like a shillelah. This he always carries, using it as a 
 cane, until circumstance calls it into play for other purposes. 
 
220 Route 40 . TARASCAN INDIANS 
 
 With strangers he is polite, but never servile. The early 
 T arascos were warlike and enduring and were expert archers. 
 Their war implements were made of tempered copper and 
 obsidian ( Obsidianus lapis) and from this volcanic glass 
 they also manufactured “ flutes which could imitate the songs 
 of birds, the roar of the tiger or the hissing of the serpent.” 
 Their paper was made from the bast of the fig-tree ( Ficus 
 carica) and the pigment used in the dyeing of their fabrics 
 was extracted from the many plants which grow in their semi- 
 tropic habitat. The dyes are fast, and textiles made by the 
 T arascos are much prized on that account. The average 
 Tarasco is musical, and composers of no mean ability are 
 found among the tribe. Every village possesses its “ string 
 band,” the music of which is sad and plaintive. Rag-time 
 tunes and others of a lively nature are unpopular. Many of 
 the songs are erotic, and are (according to a Mexican author- 
 ity) composed by the old women of the tribe. Before the 
 Spaniards introduced cross-breeding the Tarascans were 
 called (by Beaumont , the old Michoacan chronicler) the finest 
 looking of all the Indian races. Curiously enough, the more 
 they intermarry with the w T hites the darker they grow. 
 
 Customs : If a Tarasco does not marry when he is young he 
 finds some difficulty later in securing a wife — the girls are 
 suspicious lest something prevented him from marrying 
 when they considered it time for him to do so. Courtship is 
 carried on at the fountain or at the spring whence the girls 
 bring water. The lover asks his dulcinea for a drink of water 
 and if she hands him a dipper-full he may take courage and 
 press his suit. Marriages are contracted after a brief wooing. 
 A popular love-charm is the dried little finger of some dead 
 person. Like the rabbit-foot of the Southern (U. S. A.) Negro, 
 it is supposed to ward off evil influences and to scratch at the 
 door of the heart of the adored one. The men never fight 
 among themselves for any one woman. Near Palzcuaro the 
 following custom is practised: 
 
 A lover who believes his passion is reciprocated meets his 
 lady-love at the spring, catches hold of her rebozo and refuses 
 to let go until she says “ yes.” When this concession is obtained 
 he draws forth a stick which he has hidden beneath his blan- 
 ket and smashes the jar of water (which she carries on her 
 head) so that the contents fall over her. Her girl friends (who 
 have been concealed in the adjacent bushes) remove all her 
 clothes, even to her imitation coral necklace, and from their 
 own persons fit her out with another dress and a new jar 
 in which she can carry water home. Her delighted swain 
 appropriates her wet garments and later sells them to her 
 father at the rate of six centavos for each piece. The next 
 day he deposits a load of wood outside the door of her house 
 and goes away. He returns three days later and if he finds 
 
TARASCAN INDIANS Jfl. Route. 221 
 
 that the wood has been accepted he knows that his sweet- 
 heart will follow him home. Once there he returns her father’s 
 money and presents his bride with a bouquet of flowers in 
 which yellow is the predominant color. 
 
 A bride’s good qualities are sometimes tested by opening 
 a bee’s nest before her face; if she shrinks she does not pos- 
 sess the fortitude which matrimony requires. Her virginity 
 is a matter of much speculation among the townspeople, and 
 a post-nuptial test, sometimes very trying in its revelations, 
 follows marriage. All the local wags prepare lampoons and 
 the village folks await the test with fear and doubt. If she 
 proves not to have possessed Eve’s frailty, she is shown 
 great attentions, chocolate is offered her, the people revel in 
 dancing and eating and the relieved husband is the object of 
 sincere congratulations. 
 
 If she proves other than a wats (virgin) woe invades the 
 community: the feasting is postponed, the fire is extinguished 
 and the guests set out for their homes sad and angry, but not 
 before they have destroyed all the bride’s wedding-gifts, 
 which consist usually of pottery. The lot of the bride — never 
 a pleasant one — is made doubly hard, and she is the victim 
 of waggish jokes and is twitted by her friends with her fall 
 from grace. This continues until motherhood falls upon her. 
 
 The women become mothers when very young and there- 
 after they lose their girlish charm. Six children is the usual 
 number for a married couple. Infants are carried on their 
 mother’s back, held up by the rebozo. 
 
 When a Tarasco is ill his friends resort to the Aztec prac- 
 tice of “ untwisting” him. Bunches of a dozen cords of differ- 
 ent colors, wound with pieces of reed, are brought in, the feet 
 of the sick man are fastened to the floor and he is stroked from 
 head to foot with the cords. In former times women were 
 specially appointed to “disentangle” dying persons. 
 
 The common beverage of the people is supplied by a bush 
 which grows on the mountain slopes and uplands. From its 
 leaves is extracted a kind of tea similar in taste to certain of 
 the Chinese teas. The plant bears a relation to the Brazilian 
 Holly ( Ilex Paraguensis) used extensively in South America 
 for preparing a beverage similar to tea. An infusion of the 
 dried leaves placed in boiling water produces a concoction 
 which the natives believe aids the digestion and soothes the 
 nerves. The dried leaves can be kept indefinitely without 
 losing their quality. The women of the tribe prize it as an 
 emmenagogue. 
 
 A favorite Tarasco sport is bull-riding — a mild form of 
 bull-baiting. A bull is lassoed and thrown and while down 
 the Indian mounts him. A strap or lariat is tied round the 
 animal’s body and to this the rider clings. When the bull 
 rises he bucks and attempts to gore his rider who, in some 
 
222 Route 40 . TARASCAN INDIANS 
 
 cases, is much in the position of a man riding a tiger — will- 
 ing to get off but unable to. The spectacle provides excite- 
 ment, and a little danger, for the spectators. 
 
 All the Tarascos worship idols, and every farmer has one 
 or more buried in his field. They are considered the guardians 
 of the crops. Despite their idolatrous instincts and practices 
 they are fervid Catholics, sometimes making long pilgrimages 
 on their bare knees to religious shrines. Many Indians come 
 to these spots clad in the grotesque garments of buffoons — 
 wearing crowns of gilded and bespangled card-board on their 
 heads. Some wear bits of ancient armor, bells and masks; 
 others come clad in the queer habiliments of their forefathers, 
 adorned with symbols which relate to their ancient rites. 
 At the head of a group of these pilgrims is carried a wooden 
 box with a glass front, through which is visible the special saint 
 of the community. As the procession passes crowds rush 
 up to kiss the box. Grotesque dances are performed before 
 the church door, and many of the women weep and become 
 exhausted through excitement. On such occasions Mexican 
 pickpockets reap a rich harvest from those who do not carry 
 their money in their shoes. This pretext of adoring the Cath- 
 olic images covers a devotion to their ancient tutelary gods. 
 In the Tarasco country 20 or more of these feasts occur an- 
 nually: each lasts 8 days or more. 
 
 The folk-lore is extensive and curious. The forefathers of 
 the present tribe worshipped the Southern Cross (Spanish — 
 Cruz de Maria). The Sun is “Our Father Sun,” and if a lie 
 is told he hears it. Business is never transacted after sun- 
 set as the Sun cannot hear the agreement and one is likely 
 to be cheated. An eclipse terrorizes the Indians, who believe 
 that the two celestial bodies are devouring each other. Hare- 
 lip is supposed to follow an eclipse and to be caused by one. 
 If a pregnant woman looks at the eclipse (a common belief 
 among Mexicans) the child will be marked — perhaps with 
 the figure of a rabbit- A woman who expects to become a 
 mother must not carry salt, pepper or lime, or the child will 
 become deaf and blind. Certain Indians are supposed to pos- 
 sess the power of bewitching one, and others travel long dis- 
 tances to consult them and learn this art. If strangers caress 
 Tarascan children the parents believe evil-eve will result. 
 They prefer to have strangers abuse them. All the illnesses 
 of children result from the evil-eye. To avoid this the red 
 feather of a woodpecker is sometimes stuck in the child’s 
 hair, and red strings are tied around its ankle — the red blurs 
 the sorcerer’s sight. Death is believed to follow photographing. 
 
 San Mateo (St. Matthew) is the chosen saint of certain of 
 the small tribes, and he is made responsible for the weather 
 and the crops. If it freezes, his image is taken from the church 
 and immersed in cold water — so that he may realize how 
 
TARASCO RUINS 
 
 40 . Route. 223 
 
 it feels to be cold. If warm weather obtains he is feted, and 
 brandy and Indian comestibles are set before him. 
 
 The ancient Tarascans flattened the head by binding it, 
 and filed the teeth to represent swallow-tails. The femur bones 
 of enemies taken in battle were notched and then made into 
 musical instruments. 
 
 Many of the Tarascan women of the interior villages still 
 wear the tribal dress: a combination of the rebozo and a skirt 
 (which weighs about 20 lbs.) made of a long strip of cloth, 
 pleated all round and held at the waist with an artistically 
 woven girdle. They are inordinately fond of red-coral and 
 imitation necklaces. (For other interesting data referring to 
 the Tarascos , consult Unknown Mexico, by Carl Lumholtz.) 
 
 Some interesting Ruins lie within the Tarasco country, 
 near the town of Zacapu (place of stones). In the absence of 
 railways one must penetrate the district afoot or on horse- 
 back. Indian guides are always obtainable at the nearest 
 town ( Cheran ). The locality is a hunter’s paradise, as the 
 lagoons swarm with ducks — rarely hunted — and the foot- 
 hills with minor game. The pine-clad peak of Tecolote is the 
 dominating feature of the immediate neighborhood. Near this 
 (W. of Zacapu) on a ridge 500 ft. high are the ruins of a pa- 
 lacio or fortress of the Tarasco King Calzontzin, with no record 
 of the date of their erection. They lie along an esplanade 
 formed by extending the top of a hill to a length of 130 yards 
 and with a width of half that number. The masonry consists 
 of chunks of lava put together without mortar. The esplan- 
 ade is 100 ft. high in some places, but where the fortress ap- 
 proaches the highest points of the natural elevation, and 
 would accordingly be easy of access, a long wall was raised. 
 Traces of this are yet visible. In the vicinity, especially 
 to the W. of the ridge, numerous square or rectangular 
 yacatas (tombs) are located. The old lava flow of this dis- 
 trict (known as mat pais) extends northward for many miles. 
 It provided building stones for the ancients and along its 
 edge are many fortifications and yacatas. Similar monuments 
 of antiquity are encountered for a stretch of 30 or more miles 
 toward the N. of Zacapu , as far as San Antonio Corupo (Burnt 
 on the Surface). Many curious relics of the early tribes have 
 been found in this district; among them some excellent 
 terra-cotta bowls, decorated in red and white. 
 
 Cheran (Zacapu is one day’s journey on horseback to the 
 N.-E.) lies in the centre of the district and is the starting- 
 point for the ruins. It is an Indian town (pop. 8,000 Indios 
 and about 40 Mex.) picturesquely situated on a high, sunny 
 slope among the mountains. The thrifty Indians will provide 
 lodgings (of a kind) and food and guides. Living is cheap. 
 Fowls, egg, and grain always obtainable. The natives live 
 in primitive wooden houses and practise many quaint customs. 
 
224 Route 40 . STATE OF MICHOACAN 
 
 Michoacan de Ocampo, one of the Mexican Estados del 
 Pacifico, a rich and beautiful region with a pop. of 931,000 
 and a superficial area of 52,261 sqr. kilom., is divided politi- 
 cally into 15 distritos and many municipalidades . It derives its 
 name from an Indian ( Tarascan ) vocable signifying “ place of 
 the fishes ” ( lugar del pescado) ; the name Ocampo was added 
 to it to honor the memory of an illustrious patriot, Don 
 Melchor Ocampo. It is bounded on the N. by the State of 
 Guanajuato (p. 145) ; on the E. by Mexico (p. 198) and Quere- 
 taro (p. 119); on the S. and S.-E. by Guerrero (p. 460) and 
 the Occano Pacifico (coast-line 163 kilom.) and on the W. 
 by Jalisco (p. 1S1). The capital city, Morelia , is described at 
 
 p. 202. 
 
 The general character of the state is mountainous, with 
 plains and valleys that are immensely rich in vegetation. 
 The Sierra Madre range traverses the region from S.-E. to 
 N.-W. and lateral ranges break the territory in almost every 
 direction. The highest mountain is El Pico de Tancitaro 
 (12,653 ft. and frequently snow-covered) in the Uruapan 
 district. Other notable peaks are El Cerro de Patamban 
 (12,500 ft.), between Uruapan (p. 227) and Zamora (p. 149); 
 the C. del Z irate (11,130 ft.) in the distrito de Purudiuiiro; the 
 Pico de Quinceo (11,000 ft.) in the distrito de Morelia , and 
 Tarimangacho (10,000) in the Sierra de Tlalpujahua. In the 
 distrito de Ario , E. of an hacienda known as Tejamaml , is a 
 vast volcanic region called Mat Pais — Bad Lands. From 
 the centre of this rises the smoking volcano of Jorullo 
 ( Tarascan , “ paradise ”), one of the most interesting peaks 
 in the Republic. Until 1759 the Jorullo region was a rich 
 farming district. In Sept, of that year subterranean noises 
 made themselves heard, then a violent explosion occurred 
 and the present volcano rose 1,700 ft. above its surroundings, 
 and excited the wonder of the civilized world. Baron Alex- 
 ander Von Humboldt visited the district 44 years later and made 
 an exhaustive report of the catastrophe. Numerous fuma - 
 roles, called hornitos (little ovens), dot the environing country; 
 smoke and vapor issue almost continually from the crater, 
 and the district for miles around is one of almost constant 
 volcanic activity. 
 
 The Rio Lerma , R. de las Balsas and the R. Coahuayana 
 — which latter serves as the boundary-line between Michoa- 
 can and Colima — are the chief features of the River System. 
 Owing to the mountainous character of the state the rivers 
 form many falls and cascades, some of them very beautiful. 
 The Cascadade Tzararacua (p. 229), near the town of Uruapan , 
 is one of the most celebrated in the Republic. The state is 
 renowned for its beautiful lakes (logos) ; the largest is Chapala 
 (described at p. 151) on the dividing-line between Michoacan 
 and Jalisco , at the W. Next in size and beauty is the pictur- 
 
STATE OF MICHOACAN 40. Route. 225 
 
 esque Lago de Patzcuaro (p. 213) in the districts of Morelia (p. 
 202) and Zinapecuaro. Patzcuaro is to Mexicans what Killar- 
 ney is to the Irish. Another charming lake is Cuitzeo (10 M. 
 long by 6 M. broad) mentioned at p. 201. Pescado bianco 
 (white fish) are taken from these lakes in great numbers, and 
 fishing is the chief occupation of the dwellers along their shores. 
 To the S. of Patzcuaro lies the pretty Lago de Zirahuen , re- 
 ferred to at p. 226. 
 
 The Climate is cold in the mountain region, temperate on 
 the plains and hot in the southern portion. Morelia and 
 Patzcuaro are summer resorts for many of the inhabitants of 
 the Mexican capital . 
 
 The Fauna includes the tapir, tiger (not the striped Bengal 
 variety), mountain-lion, leopard, wild-boar, ounce, deer (several 
 species), foxes and so on. Certain regions furnish fine sport for 
 hunstmen. The reptilia is represented by the powerful and 
 dreaded boa — a huge serpent with a rectangular succession of 
 spots, alternately black and yellow, extending the whole length 
 of the back — by the viper, scorpion ( alacran , comp. p. 93), 
 tarantula and a varied entomological congress. The range of 
 the bird species is unusually wide and many of the individual 
 specimens are remarkable for their brilliant plumage. In the 
 remote and unfrequented regions are found the beautiful, and 
 much-hunted, American Egret ( Herodias egretta) ; the Mexi- 
 can Jacana ( Jacana spinosa) ; Mourning Dove ( Zenaidura 
 macroura ), a species widely disseminated throughout Mexico; 
 the Laughing Falcon ( Herpetotheres cachinnans) — also very 
 common in the tropics along the coast ; the Rufous Cuckoo 
 ( Piaya mexicana) ; Mexican Whip-poor-will ( Antrostomus ma- 
 cromystox) ; Mexican Meadowlark ( Sturnella magna mexicana) 
 and an almost endless list of Parrots, Pheasants, Quail, Snipe, 
 Ducks, Geese and song-birds. 
 
 The Flora is rich and varied, comprising almost everything 
 from the pines of the mountain summits to the beautiful 
 and valuable orchids of the tierra caliente. In the astonish- 
 ingly fertile soil of this favored state fine cabinet-woods grow 
 in abundance; along with almost countless oleaginous, 
 medicinal, aromatic and flowering plants. 
 
 The list of fruits, many of delightful flavor, is a long one. 
 Sericulture is being introduced. Some of the oldest olive-trees 
 in Mexico will be found in the old convent garden at Tzin- 
 tzuntzan. Cotton and silk shawls, palm-hats, lace and em- 
 broidery, sugar-cane and by-products; mescal, coffee, vanilla, 
 tobacco, rubber, cereals, sesame and linseed, and vast herds 
 of live-stock are among the products of the state. The moun- 
 tains are rich in minerals; gold, silver, copper, iron, cinnabar, 
 lead, marble, granite and coal are found. Opals and other 
 gems exist in small quantities. 
 
 The remains of Indian mounds, caves, rock-carvings, temples 
 
226 Route 39. PATZCUARO TO URUAPAN 
 
 and graves are found in many parts of the state. Prior to the 
 Conquest it was perhaps densely populated by Indian tribes, 
 the lees of which are still to be found. Among these are 
 the Cuitlatecos, of the Nahuatlan Family; the Chareos and 
 Charenses ( Otomian F.) ; the Michoas ( Tarascan F.) ; Pirindas 
 {Otomian F.) ; Tarascos ( Tarascan F.), see p. 217; Tecos 
 ( Nahuatlan F.) ; and several minor tribes which have strayed 
 in from adjoining states. 
 
 Patzcuaro , see p. 209. Continuing our journey we follow 
 the shore of the lake for a mile or more beyond Patzcuaro. As 
 we ascend we get a better view (to the r.) of this beautiful 
 sheet of water with its native fishing-boats and the towns 
 that stand on its shore. 448 K. Charahuen. The train zigzags 
 into the hills to 458 K. Ajuno. From this point the grade 
 slopes downward and the scenery becomes more tropical. We 
 emerge from a wild region on to the edge of a great depression 
 in the mountains and see (on the 1.) the Lake of Zirahuen, 
 most beautiful of all the Mexican lakes. Resting quietly in 
 the bosom of the tall, verdure-clad hills which surround it, 
 with its unrippled surface shimmering beneath waves of heat 
 and reflecting the hills and the blue sky in its pellucid depths, 
 it makes a very beguiling picture; the region strongly recalls 
 the fairy-like Chuzenji in the Japanese highlands. When 
 modern enterprise converts this now neglected, but splendidly 
 sheltered, region into an attractive winter resort, nature-lovers 
 will compare it to Lake Como and its environs, and it will be 
 listed among the most charming winter stations on the conti- 
 nent. The waters 1 of the lake are sweet, there is good fishing, 
 and the climate of the region is nearly perfect ; with long, warm, 
 sunny days and cool nights. Thousands of ducks disport un- 
 hunted on its placid bosom during the winters at the North. 
 The little coves which characterize the S. shore are ideal spots 
 for bungalows. The rly. line half-circles the lake and hugs its 
 shore for several miles. 
 
 466 K. Ajambaran. We descend to more tropical levels by 
 a series of five loops one above the other. The views of the 
 surrounding country, now boldly mountainous with fair valleys 
 between the hills, are beautiful. In the descent we cross many 
 deep barrancas. Range after range of verdure-clad hills un- 
 cover themselves to view as the train travels to all points 
 of the compass, and the region bears an aspect of untold 
 richness. Splendid pine forest, with greensward sprinkled with 
 blooming wild-flowers, clothe the slopes. The woods look sweet 
 and undefiled. 47S K. Tarascan. 
 
 481 K. Paranguitiro , a shipping-point for the fine sweet 
 
 1 Engineers say the centre of this lake has no bottom, and that it is the 
 surface expression of an immensely deep and swift river which flows 
 beneath this region, and here appears above ground. The depths are said 
 to be very cold, and the current irresistible. 
 
c.-u« 'if 
 
- 
 
URUAPAN 
 
 41. Route. 227 
 
 oranges and the limes for which this region is celebrated. 
 Hereabout some of the splendid orchids (comp. p. 564) for which 
 Mexico is noted are found, and huge boxes of the plants are 
 usually to be seen on the station platform, awaiting ship- 
 ment to foreign lands. We traverse a beautiful district, 
 warm and tropical. Banana trees become conspicuous features 
 in the landscape. A wealth of riotous vegetation stretches 
 away on every hand. Wild-flowers abound. Certain views 
 (to the 1.) recall Maltrata (p. 494) on the Mexican Rly. 486 K. 
 Empalme de Conuy. 498 K. Curu. The grade is steadily down- 
 ward, and as we descend, the tall hills seem to approach and 
 grow taller. We cross a fine valley planted with Indian maize 
 and literally pink with myriad Cosmos flowers. Happy-looking 
 women and girls are seen gathering the flowers, of which they 
 make wreaths to wind about their heads and shoulders. Cer- 
 tain sections of the environs are given over to the growth of 
 these flowers and the fields stand out in broad color blotches 
 in the landscape. Near the station of 515 K. Uruapan (see 
 below) are some fine eucalyptus trees. 
 
 41. Uruapan. 
 
 Arrival. The railway station lies about l\ M. to the east of the town, 
 which is reached over a road that is fairly good except during the rainy 
 season. The tram-cars, which meet all trains (fare, 7 c.: double after 
 nightfall), take a roundabout course to reach the plaza in the centre of the 
 town. Trunks can be transferred to the town on the flat-cars of this line 
 at the rate of $1.50 the ton weight. If there are a number of trunks the 
 checks had best be turned over to the hotel manager. Hand-bags by car- 
 gadores (comp. p. lii) , 25 c. ; trunks, 50 c. Uruapan is the end of the railway. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). Hotel San Carlos (formerly Union) on the l a 
 Callede la Union , 7 (PI. D, 2). Best rooms are upstairs overlooking the 
 street. The side rooms have no windows and only a door opening on to the 
 patio. Booms only, 50 c. to $1.25. Three meals, $1.50 additional. 
 
 Hotel International (PI. D, 2), facing the Plaza del Mercado. Same 
 rates. No upper rooms. 
 
 Uruapan, a Tarascan vocable formed from urani — gourd, 
 and urupan — where flowers are blooming — formerly called 
 San Francisco Uruapan, is 5,576 ft. above sea-level and was 
 founded in 1540 by the Franciscan Friar Juan de San Miguel , 
 who traced out the streets, laid the foundation for the exist- 
 ing church, planted many flowers and fruit-trees and taught 
 the Indians how to improve their gardens and farms. Soon 
 after its foundation the beauty of the spot attracted many 
 settlers, and the place attained a population of 20,000. Small- 
 pox and other terrible scourges reduced the number (in 1822) 
 to 1,500; at present the town has about 15,000 inhabitants. It 
 is the head of the district of the same name, and not long ago 
 it was the end of the old stage-road from Morelia via Patzcuaro. 
 The three plazas , that of El Mercado (or Fray Juan de San 
 Miguel ), Del Kiosko and the Jar din de los Mar tires (PI. C, 2), 
 stand at the top of the town, which slopes away on all sides. 
 
22 S Route 41. 
 
 URUAPAN 
 
 These plazas string along one after the other. The most at- 
 tractive, the Jardin de los Martires, faces the old parochial 
 church (uninteresting) and contains a marble monument to 
 the memory of Generals Jose M. Arteaga and Carlos Salazar; 
 Colonel Jesus Diaz, Lieutenant-Col. Trinidad Villagomez and 
 Commander Juan Gonzalez , who were sacrificed here Oct. 21, 
 1866, by Col. Ramon Mendez of the imperialist troops of the 
 Emperor Maximilian. 
 
 Uruapan was the birthplace of the painter (pictures in the 
 Academia de San Carlos , p. 308) Don Manuel Ocaranza (b, 1S45, 
 d. 1882). The houses are chiefly of one story, with tiled roofs 
 that make them very quaint and attractive. The streets, though 
 cobble-paved, are usually clean ; some of them are mere tun- 
 nels through avenues of tall, green coffee and banana trees. 
 The Mexicans consider the town one of the most delightful 
 spots on earth — uno de los sitios mas deliciosos de la tierra. 
 It is a beguiling spot, embowered in pink cosmos, red and- white 
 tube- and tea-roses, a wealth of tropical flowers and many 
 tall mulberry-trees. Sericulture is a growing industry and the 
 leaves of the mulberry are cultivated for food for the silk- 
 worms — gusanos de seda. Many of the sunny patios of the 
 diminutive houses flame with a brilliant scarlet flower called 
 flor del pastor — shepherd’s flower; and also with a beautiful 
 variety of spurge {Euphorbia polygonifolia ) . Here the splendid 
 floripondio, or magnolia, reaches perfection, and the country 
 lanes and by-ways are redolent of its fine perfume. 
 
 The suburbs are very picturesque and the fine fruit-trees, 
 many of them planted by the zealous Fray Juan de San Miguel, 
 are a constant delight. In the soft climate of this region the 
 chirimoya , shaddock, fig, orange, banana and a host of deli- 
 cious products grow to perfection. Wide fields of sugar-cane 
 stretch away below the town, and in the tierra caliente , some 
 20 M. distant, an excellent grade of rice is produced. The 
 Uruapan coffee (comp. p. 489) is celebrated throughout the 
 Americas. It occupies a high place in public esteem and is 
 considered by some as equal in flavor to the Arabian Mocha. 
 The supply is smaller than the demand. It is not produced 
 on a large scale, the annual output being less than 500,000 
 lbs. The best grade, known as Caracolillo, brings about $5 for 
 25 lbs. in the U. S. market. 
 
 The Spaniards called Uruapan the “ Paradise of Michoacan.” 
 Its people are pleasant, its almost perfect climate is balmy 
 and the unusual beauty of the mts. surrounding the place 
 adds very much to its charm. Many Tarascan Indian wo- 
 men, half-Mexicanized, dwell in Uruapan , and the creoles 
 (much goitre among them) are noted for their handsome faces. 
 It is the metropolis of the adjacent Indian pueblos , and on 
 Sundays and feast-days the streets are animated and pictur- 
 esque/ Not a few of the old Indian customs prevail. 
 
FALLS OF TZARARACUA 41 . Route . 229 
 
 Many of these neighboring Indians make their living by manufacturing 
 the celebrated Uruapan lacquer- ware, in the shape of gourds, trays 
 and whatnot. The pieces vary in size from small bits, barely an inch 
 long, to broad waiters two feet in diameter, and they are, as a rule, to be 
 found in all the curio-shops in the Republic. The small gourds (Spanish, 
 jicaras) grow on low trees and are plentiful in the vicinity. The Indians 
 gather and dry them, split them in halves, scoop out the contents and 
 by means of a mineral pigment paint the interiors in gaudy colors. The 
 larger shapes are brought from the outlying districts, chiefly from the 
 slope of ML Tancitaro (a superb snow-clad peak visible to the S.-W.), 
 whither the workers repair and camp while making them. After a 
 thorough seasoning the vessel to be lacquered is covered with a coating 
 of lithomarge (a sectile, compact clay of a fine, smooth texture) and al- 
 lowed to dry. The men then trace out the designs with a sharp-pointed 
 instrument, and the women fill in the incisions with various colors, 
 smoothing them down with their thumbs. An adept at the work will 
 often draw the design and finish it in one operation. These designs, in 
 which there is a paucity of ideas, usually represent flowers and geometri- 
 cal figures popular with the Indios. The colors are bright, and rarely 
 harmonize; gilding is sometimes resorted to. In such cases the finished 
 product is only valuable as a curio. The lacquer is produced from a plant 
 louse (Spanish — aje) which is gathered during the rainy season by the 
 Indians of Huetdmo ( Tarascan — hue — come, and tamo — four; where 
 four come together), about 50 leagues S.-E. of Uruapan. The polishing 
 process is laborious, as the best product must be hand-finished. Small 
 articles of this ware are usually offered for sale by the Indians, who 
 generally ask much more than they expect to receive — a back-handed 
 compliment to the visitor’s generosity and his ignorance of values. 
 
 One of the most beautiful spots in the vicinity of Uruapan 
 is the 
 
 Waterfall of Tzararacua, some six miles to the S.-E. 
 of the town. A good pedestrian will find the walk thoroughly 
 delightful, but a guide should be taken along to point out the 
 way. The hotel manager will get a dependable boy for 50 c.- 
 $1. Horses are available at SI the round trip. Vehicles are 
 scarce and the roads were not made for them. Horse for the 
 guide unnecessary, as he can trot alongside. One morning 
 is ample for the round trip. The entire country is peaceable 
 and safe. As venomous snakes are known to haunt the local- 
 ity of the cascada puttee leggings are desirable. The word 
 tzararacua is Tarascan and means a sieve. 
 
 The route lies past the plazas , down the hill and out through the west 
 suburbs to the Indian town of Jicalan. Continuing along the highway we 
 soon reach the flower-embowered and attractive Indian pueblo of Ju - 
 cacote, with many fruit-trees, and a dolce-f ar-niente atmosphere that is 
 beguiling. Splendid coffee-trees, planted between rows of bananas, line 
 the roadside. Here they are not always clipped, as at Orizaba (p. 489), and 
 small boys mount the trees to pick the bright red berries. We soon 
 climb to a higher elevation and obtain glorious views of the mountains 
 which hem in the region. Through gaps in these we see the luxuriant, 
 sunlit hot country a score or more miles distant. Pine woods become 
 features in the landscape, and we soon come to the brink of a deep gorge, 
 at the head of which we dismount and begin the descent on foot. Below 
 is a circular depression with a natural bulwark of stone at the end. 
 Piercing this is a darksome cavern and from the uncharted depths of 
 this comes a roaring, rushing, tumbling river, which falls thundering 
 and boiling a sheer 90 ft. to a swirling, bubbling pool below. The sight 
 is unique and beautiful. The main fall is of immense volume, but the 
 chief beauty of the whole lies in the hundreds of miniature falls which 
 
230 Rte. 41. URUAPAN TO THE PACIFIC COAST 
 
 emancipate themselves from the central stream and leap through a myriad 
 tiny fissures in the rocks. Some of the minor falls are several feet thick, 
 while others are of needle-like proportions; as slender and as graceful as 
 the finest crystal rods. The play of the sunbeams on the tiny crystalline 
 arches produces a charming effect. Many of the miniature jets fall upon 
 a host of waving, swaying ferns and flowers, and sprinkle them with 
 showers of sparkling drops. The Falls rank among the finest in the 
 Republic. 
 
 The river below (the Cupatitzio ) rushes away to irrigate many fine 
 haciendas and cafetales before reaching Uruapan, where it flanks the 
 Calzada de la Quinta , flows beneath several handsome rustic bridges, and 
 furnishes power for cotton-mills and cigarette factories. Some of the 
 bridges are unusually quaint and graceful and they remind the traveller 
 of the dainty, straw-thatched bridges of Dai Nippon. Lateral streams are 
 carried from the river, across certain of the town streets, through over- 
 head pipes. Some of the bridges are substantial stone structures with 
 fine arches. 
 
 A horseback trip from Uruapan to the Pacific Coast will 
 prove a delight to the traveller who does not mind roughing it 
 a bit. The hacendados are a hospitable lot, the scenery cross- 
 ing the mts. is superb, fruit is plentiful and the country is 
 but a little short of a sub-tropical paradise. Its beauties are 
 not yet known to most of the foreigners in Mexico. The 
 traveller may like to remember that a four or five hours' 
 horseback ride across the mountains (to the N.), over a well- 
 defined trail, will bring him to Los Reyes (see p. 149) on the 
 Zamora branch of the National Rlys. of Mex. He is then within 
 touch by rail of Guadalajara and the Chapala Lake region. 
 There is good hunting on the way. Horses can always be se- 
 cured in Uruapan at reasonable prices. 
 
VI. CITY AND VALLEY OF MEXICO 
 
 42. Mexico City 233 
 
 a. Arrival and Departure. Railway Stations, Hotels, Fur- 
 nished Rooms, Caffis, etc., 233. — 6. Means of Transporta- 
 tion, 238. — Holidays, 238. — c. Post, Telegraph, Railway, 
 Steamship and Express Offices; Automobile Garages, 244a. 
 
 — d. Embassies, Consulates, Physicians, Dentists, Clubs, 
 Chamber of Commerce, Y. M. C. A., Red Cross, 2446. — e. 
 Lodges, Secret Societies, Banks, Money-Changers, Shops, 
 Cigars and Cigarettes, Booksellers, Photographers, Chem- 
 ists, etc., 2446. — /. Theatres and Places of Amusement, 
 
 244 g. — g. Churches, Church Festivals, 244/i. — h. List of 
 Chief Collections and Other Sights, 244i. — i. Disposition 
 of Time, 244j. — j. General Hints, 244Z. — k. Gesticulation. 
 
 The Federal District 245 
 
 The Valley of Mexico 246 
 
 The Origin of the Tezcucans 249 
 
 Situation, History, and Character of the City 251 
 
 Central Quarter of the City 265 
 
 Plaza de la Constitucion (El Zocalo) 265 
 
 El Palacio Nacional (National Palace) 267 
 
 The Cathedral (La Catedral) 272 
 
 The Municipal Palace (El Palacio Municipal) 292 
 
 The Flower Market (El Mercado de Flores) 293 
 
 The Portales (Arcades) 294 
 
 The National Pawn-Shop (El Monte de Piedad) .... 295 
 
 Thieves’ Market (El Volador) 296 
 
 Enrico Martinez Monument (El Monumento) 297 
 
 The National Museum (El Museo Nacional) 298 
 
 San Carlos Picture Gallery 310 
 
 Points of Interest between the Plaza Mayor and the Alameda, and 
 
 in the Northern and Western Quarters of the City 317 
 
 Avenida Cinco de Mayo, 317. — Church of La Profesa, 318. 
 
 — Hotel Iturbide, 320. — Calle de Gante, 320. — Church 
 of San Francisco, 321. — House of Tiles, 326. — Church 
 of San Felipe de Jesus, 325, — Santa Brigida, 3266 — 
 National Theatre, 326c — The Alameda, 327. — Post-Office, 
 
 328. — Commercial Museum, 328. — School of Mines, 330. 
 
 — Public Works Bldg., Telegraph Office, 331. — Churches of 
 Santa Clara, 331, — San Lorenzo, 332, — La Concepcion, 
 
 332, — Santa Maria de los Angeles, 333. — Jardin ana 
 Church of San Juan de Dios, 333. — Churches of Santa 
 Vera Cruz, 334, — San Diego, 334, — San Hipdlito, 335. — 
 Church and Panteon de San Fernando, 337. — Calles del 
 Puente de Alvarado, 339. — House of Marshal Bazaine, 
 
 340. — Church of San Cosme, 340. — Colonia de Santa 
 Maria, 341. — Instituto Geologico Nacional, 341. — Casa 
 de los Mascarones, 342. — English, American and Spanish 
 Cemeteries, 342. 
 
 South-East Quarters of the City 343 
 
 Conservatorio Nacional de Musica, 343. — Church of Porta 
 Cceli, 343. — Church of San Bernardo, 343. — Biblioteca 
 Nacional, 344. — 2 a Calle de Capuchinas, 346. — Churches 
 of Balvanera, 346, — and El Colegio de Ninas, 346. — • 
 Palacio del Conde de Santiago, 347. — Church and Hos- 
 pital of Jesus Nazareno, 348. — Churches of San Jos6 de 
 Gracia, 349, San Miguel, 349, and San Pablo, 350. — 
 Canal de la Viga, Xochimilco, Floating Gardens, 350. — 
 Church of San Antonio Abad, 350. — El Desierto, 350d — 
 Colegio de la Paz, 352. — Church of Regina Cceli, 352. — El 
 Hospicio de Pobres, 353. 
 
232 
 
 ENVIRONS OF MEXICO CITY, ETC. 
 
 North-East Quarters of the City 353 
 
 Church and Plaza de Santo Domingo. 353. — Escuela Na- 
 cional de Medicina, 356. — The Inquisition, 356. — 
 Churches of La Encamacion, 357, — Santa Catalina de 
 Sena, 357, — Santa Catarina Martir, 358, — San Antonio 
 Tepito, 358, — El Carmen, 358, — Santiago Tlaltelolco. 358, 
 
 — Santa Inez, 359, — Santa Teresa la Antigua, 359. — La 
 Escuela Nacional Preparatoria (San Ildefonso), 360. — 
 Escuela de Jurisprudencia, 362. — Churches of Nuestra 
 Senora de Loreto, 362, and Santa Teresa la Nueva, 363. — 
 
 Casa de Moneda, 364. — Churches of Jesus Maria, 364, — 
 
 La Santisima Trinidad, 365, — La Soledad de Santa Cruz, 
 
 366. — The San Lazaro District, 367. — La Penitenciaria, 
 
 368. 
 
 South-West Quarters of the City 369 
 
 Belem Prison, 369. — La Ciudadela, 369. — El Instituto 
 Medico Nacional, 369. — Church of El Salto de Agua, 
 
 370. — La Merced, San Juan Market, San Jose de los 
 Naturales, 370. — Ch. of El Corazon de Jesus, 371. — La 
 Sagrada Familia, 371. — American School, 371. — Plaza de 
 Toros, 371. — The Colonias Juarez, Roma, and Condesa, 
 
 371. — Washington Monument, 371. — Panteon Frances, 
 
 371. 
 
 West Quarters of the City 371 
 
 Calles de Bucareli, 372. — Paseo de la Reforma, 372. — 
 Equestrian Statue of Charles IV, 373. — Statue to Christo- 
 pher Columbus, 374 . — Statue of Cuauhtemoc, 376. — 
 Monument to National Independence, 378. — Chapultepec 
 Castle and Park, 3 , 9 . — Molino del Rey, 3S5. — Panteon 
 de Dolores, 385. — Chapultepec Heights^Colony v 390a. 
 
 Environs of Mexico City 391 
 
 Guadalupe-Hidalgo, 392. — Tlalpan, 405. — The Country 
 Club, 407. — Churubusco, 407. — Coyoacan, 408. — The 
 Pedregal, 411. — San Angel, 412. — La Piedad, 416. — 
 Mixcoac, 416. — Tacubaya, 417. — Popotia, 418. — 
 Tacuba, 418. — Azcapotzalco, 419. 
 
 43. From Mexico City toPachuca, via the Ferrocarriles 
 
 Xacionales de Mexico, Mexican, and Hidalgo and 
 Northeastern Railroads 421 
 
 43a. From Mexico City to Puebla 424 
 
 44. From Mexico City via San Juan Teotihuacan 
 
 and Tlaxcala to Puebla 424 
 
 Pyramids of San Ju&n Teotihuacdn 425 
 
 Church and Convent of San Agustin de Acolman 4266 
 
232 
 
Railway Stations , etc . MEXICO CITY 
 
 Jfi. Route . 233 
 
 42. Mexico City. 
 
 a. Arrival and Departure. Railway Stations, Hotels, Furnished 
 Rooms, Cafes, etc. 
 
 Railway Stations ( estaciones de ferrocarril) . 1. The Colonia Station 
 
 ( estacidn de Colonia, PL D, 4) of the National Railways of Mexico and 
 operated Lines ( Ferrocarriles Nacionales de Mexico y Anexos — usually 
 called Las Lineas Nacionales, the National Lines) faces the Plaza del 
 F. C. Nacional, flanks the Paseo de la Reforma at the Glorieta Cuauhtemoc 
 (PI. D, 4) and is about l£ M. west of the Plaza Mayor. Trains for 
 Queretaro, San Luis Potosi, Tampico, Monterey and Laredo (Texas), leave 
 from this station, as do also those for Toluca, Morelia, and Urudpan (Rte. 
 37). Tram-cars connect it with the centre of the city and with the stations 
 mentioned hereinafter. There is a small lunch stand in the station, and a 
 dearth of them in the neighborhood. The traveller with time to spare will 
 do better to walk up the Paseo a few hundred yards to the Imperial Hotel 
 (p. 236), where he will be sure of good meals at reasonable prices. Ticket 
 Office in the station and at the General Offices of the Railway Administra- 
 tion in the 2a Calle de Bolivar, No. 19 (PI. G, 4). 
 
 The Estacion de Buena Vista (of the Lineas Nacionales — trains to 
 Cuernavaca, Guadalajara, Aguascalientes, Zacatecas, Torredn, Chihuahua, 
 El Paso, Texas, etc.), of the one-time Mexican Central Railway, faces the 
 Calle de las Estaciones (Pl. E, 3) about £ M. to the N. (follow the Calle 
 Ramon Guzmdn, and its prolongation, the C. de Mejia,, to its intersection 
 with the C. de las Estaciones) . A good walker can cover the distance in 15 
 min. Diagonally across the street from the estacidn are several indifferent 
 restaurants ( fondas ), where meals are served at all hours. — American 
 newspapers, Mexican cigars, cigarettes, etc., are on sale at the office of the 
 Sonora News Co., in the station yard (beyond the gate, at the left of the W. 
 track). Ticket Office in the Station and at the General Offices of the line in 
 the Calle de Bolivar, No. 19 (PL G, 4). 
 
 One minute’s walk to the E. (right), adjoining, is 
 
 The Mexican Railway Station ( Estacion del F. C. Mexicano ) . Trains for 
 the Pyramids of San Juan Teotihuacdn, Puebla, Pachuca, Esperanza, 
 Apizaco, Apam, Cordoba, Orizaba, Vera Cruz, and points on the Isthmus 
 of Tehuantepec. Ticket Office in the station (Head Offices of the Line) and 
 at The Hotel del Coliseo, 3a Calle de Bolivar, No. 28 (Pl. G, 4). Connections 
 are made at Irolo with the Interoceanic Rly. At Puebla with the Mexican 
 Southern Rly. ( Oaxaca , Ruins of Mitla, etc.), and The Interoceanic Rly. At 
 Cordoba with the Vera Cruz al Istmo Rly. Ai Vera Cruz with the Vera 
 Cruz Rlys. Ltd.; Vera Cruz al Istmo; Interoceanic Rly., and all Steamship 
 Lines. 
 
 The San Lazaro Station ( estacidn de S. L.) of the Ferrocarril Interocednico 
 (operated by the National Lines), is about £ M. E. (P1.H,4) of the Palacio 
 Nacional, in the E. quarter of the city. Tram-cars connect it with the other 
 stations. Time by taxi about 15 min. Trains leave this station for Cuautla, 
 Puebla, Jalapa, Vera Cruz, etc. Ticket Office in the station and at Calle 
 de Bolivar, 19. 
 
 The Peralvillo Station (Pl. I, 2) of the F. C. Hidalgo y Nordeste (Hidalgo 
 and N.-W. Line) is about £ M. N. of the Plaza Mayor. Proceed to this 
 point and board a tram-car bound for Guadalupe. The line passes in front of 
 the estacion. Trains for Pachuca, Tortiigas, Teva, Beristdin, etc. The Rly. 
 is operated by the National Lines. (Ticket Office, Calle de Bolivar 19.) 
 
 Estacion del F. G. de San Rafael and Aflixco ( Xico Rte.). In the Callejdn 
 de Xico, in the S.-E. section of the city (Pl. H, 6). Trains to 38 Kilom. 
 Chaleo; 48 K. Miraflores; 66 K. Amecameca, and 84 K. Ozumba. Consult the 
 6 uia Oficial (p. xxxi). 
 
 El Ferrocarril del Desagiie del Valle (Drainage Works of the Valley of 
 Mexico) connects the city ( Peralvillo Station) with the drainage works at 37 
 K. Tequixquiac (comp. p. 248). 
 
 The City Plan and Streets. Recently certain of the street names of the capi- 
 tal have been changed for others which give no inkling of their historic or 
 romantic associations. By many this nomenclature was not accepted, and 
 they continue to call the streets by their old names. Thus to change them on 
 
234 Route ifl. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Hotels. 
 
 the Plan would be to confuse the stranger. To facilitate its use the old 
 names and their substitutes will be found in the left-hand upper corner of 
 the Plan, which faces page 23 2. Only a very few of the streets changed 
 are of interest to the stranger. 
 
 Hotels (oh-tel-es). Comp. p. xlvii. Mexico City differs from the pre-war 
 capital in that it now possesses good hotels run in the American way, where 
 the traveller can be as comfortable as he would be in the average New York 
 hotel. Certain of the old-time hotels are still in existence, but not all of 
 them are popular with foreigners. Some of them are clean, and reasonable 
 in price, others are not. The fact that they advertise (among other things) 
 hot and cold running water in the rooms (or baths) does not mean that there 
 will be hot water in the pipes when the traveller wants it — or in fact at any 
 other time. In some of them public baths are operated on the premises, and 
 the proprietors evidently believe that if the guest finds no hot water in his 
 private bath he will resort to the public bath (and pay extra). 
 
 Mexico City is noticeably cool after sundown and before sunup, and hot 
 water at these times is very acceptable; particularly to the American who 
 is prejudiced in favor of personal cleanliness, and who believes that this is 
 the best preventive against disease. In certain of the hotels under native 
 management a hot bath is never obtainable, albeit the rates which include 
 it are collected. In these places the rooms are never startlingly clean, the 
 sanitary arrangements leave much to be desired (particularly if closets 
 are flushed from a tank — often empty — on the roof), necessary bits of 
 furniture are lacking, and what exists looks as if it came over with Cories. 
 If three skimpy, sleazy towels are provided daily for 2 persons, they are not 
 always brought forth ungrudgingly. 
 
 Usually the personal discomforts in any but the best hotels are so many 
 that the wise traveller will lodge only at the best. These places always 
 provide ample hot water, heat in the early morning and late evening when 
 it is most appreciated; the toilet arrangements are clean and sanitary, and 
 the manager personally anticipates what the average American wants in 
 the way of comfort and provides it. The special features of the different 
 hotels are mentioned in detail so that the traveller may choose the one 
 which best pleases him. As a general rule the city hotels are now run on 
 the European Plan, with so much for the room, and meals extra, d la carte. 
 
 The hotels listed hereinafter have been carefully selected from many 
 because of the excellence of their appointments, the fact that the manager 
 of each has had experience in running hotels in the U. S. A.; for reasonable 
 charges, and because they fulfil the requirements of the average American 
 traveller. Also because they are well supplied with baths, have sunny rooms 
 (a most desirable feature on the Mexican tableland), and provide good, 
 American style food. In certain of them the restaurant may be under separate 
 management, and meals must be paid for when taken. The order of listing 
 these hotels implies no superiority one over the other. Each enjoys special 
 features which appeal differently to different travellers, and each is recom- 
 mended. 
 
 Hotel Geneve. A thoroughly modern (the largest in Mexico), strictly 
 American (American ownership, management and cooking) hotel (250 
 guest rooms, baths, etc.) of concrete and steel (fire and earthquake proof), 
 not far from the business centre (taxis, car lines, quick service), the Colonia 
 (passenger) Railroad Station, the American and other embassies and lega- 
 tions, bull-ring and the Condesa race track, amid beautiful surroundings (on 
 8th Liverpool St. No. 133 — PI. D, 5), in one of the healthiest sections of 
 the city. Much liked for its many refinements. Good food. Telephones. 
 Hot Water Heat. Tennis Court. Garage (motor cars at reasonable rates). 
 Children’s playground. Fine views. The drinking water comes from a deep 
 artesian well (no connection with the city mains) on the premises, and its 
 perfect purity renders boiling unnecessary. Rates from $2.50 a day (Ameri- 
 can money) for single rooms, up to $20 per day for five-room de luxe suites. 
 European plan. Weekly rates apply when a guest remains for 7 consecutive 
 days. Table d'hdtc and d la carte service in the Restaurant (first-class Ameri- 
 can cook). Board by the week at special rates on application. The Genet e 
 caters to transients as well as to permanent guests. Attractive rates to 
 families and those making a long stay. Persons entering Mexico through 
 Laredo, Texas, can arrange for rooms on application to Mr. Louis Putter 
 
Hotels. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 1+2. Route. 235 
 
 (1320 Convent Ave., Laredo), who meets all trains and assists travellers 
 through the Mexican Custom House. A valuable aid to ladies travelling 
 alone. The Geneve is under the personal supervision of Mr. Thos. S. Gore , 
 an experienced hotel manager of international repute. 
 
 Hotel Regis, one of the largest and most modern American hotels in 
 Mexico, in the heart of the business district (PI. F, 4), facing the stately 
 Avenida Juarez , at the W. end of the delightful Alameda (Mexico’s loveliest 
 park and promenade — excellent music, beautiful walks, flowers, etc.) with 
 sunny rooms, hot and cold water, telephones, elevators, Ticket and tele- 
 graph offices, Information bureau, Steam laundry, Ainer. barber shop, and 
 the largest Swimming Pool in the Republic. The Regis Turkish, Russian, 
 and electric baths are the best in the country. Good caf6 and restaurant, 
 with American food, cabaret, music, dancing, etc. Many of the 500 rooms 
 and 450 baths of the Regis were completed and decorated in 1922. Rates 
 for these rooms, without bath, from 4 pesos a day; with bath from 5 to 20 
 pesos. — One of the best known and most popular of the metropolitan 
 hotels. The manager, Sam H. Lackland , was formerly with the Statler 
 Hotels. Sight-seeing autos leave the Regis at intervals during the day for 
 points of interest in the city and suburbs, for San Juan Teotihuacdn, 
 Cuernavaca , the Cacahuamilpa Caverns , Chapultepec , etc. 
 
 Hotel Princess, Avenida Hidalgo No. 59 (formerly the Ave. de los H om- 
 bres I lustres), one of the best equipped and most modern of the metropolitan 
 hotels, occupies a unique position near the centre of the business district yet 
 overlooking the charming Alameda, with its excellent music, its walks, 
 fountains, and flowers. This beautiful civic ornament serves as a sort of 
 front yard to the hotel, which is immediately across the street from it, at 
 the N. so that its rooms get the southern and western sun as well as the views 
 over the Alameda. Strictly high class, with large, clean, comfortable rooms 
 and baths, with steam heat, hot and cold running water, telephones, excellent 
 service, attractive restaurant and grillroom (French and American cuisine) . 
 The handsomely appointed Princess is a sort of social centre, and the rendez- 
 vous for the distinguished and diplomatic life of the capital. The wealth, 
 beauty, and fashion of Mexico City usually attend the celebrated The 
 Dansants given in the hotel, which is but a few minutes’ walk from the 
 nerve centre of the capital. One block from the busy Ave. Juarez; 2 from 
 the Central Post-Office and the splendid National Theatre — the finest struc- 
 ture of its class on the continent. Reasonable rates, yet all the comfort and 
 refinement of a modern, up-to-date hotel. Mr. Fernando L. Padilla, the 
 manager, has had long experience in running American hotels. English, 
 French, German, Spanish, Italian spoken. 
 
 Hotel Guardiola, Ave. Madero No. 5 (PI. G, 4), perhaps the best of the 
 hotels of the old regime, newly fitted up and furnished (in 1922), with 
 modern conveniences and appliances; sanitary, enlarged, with an attractive 
 lobby, and an excellent restaurant, facing the Palacio Escandon and Sanborns 
 internationally famous tea-rooms and restaurant (the celebrated Casa 
 de los Azulejos). The Guardiola is under the personal supervision of a 
 manager {Mr. F. de P. Carrol) of wide experience who knows how to 
 cater to those Americans who prefer real comfort to ostentatious luxury. 
 Long known to Americans as one of the best hotels of the Mexican capital, 
 The Guardiola is especially popular with travelling men and those commer- 
 cial men who prefer to be in the very heart of the business centre. The 
 attractive rooms are scrupulously clean, and the service is good. A tasteful, 
 high standard American hotel adapted to Mexico, with the comfort of the 
 one and the charm of the other. Rooms without bath, for one, S3, $5, and 
 $6 (Mex. money) a day. Rooms without bath, for two, $6 and $8. Rooms 
 with bath, for one, $8 and up. Parlor suites, $10 and up. English spoken. 
 Special attention to American tourists, and special rates for a long stay. 
 
 Hotel Ansonia, Avenida Ayuntamiento No. 133 (PI. F, 4), a new, thor- 
 oughly equipped, attractive residential hotel, four blocks S. of the Alameda, 
 in the residential heart of the modern city, on a quiet avenue with magnifi- 
 cent views over the valley to the distant mountains. Sanitary, newly 
 furnished, with large rooms nearly all of which receive the sun. Fireplaces, 
 telephones, rooms singly or in suites of two, three, or four rooms with private 
 dining-room and kitchen. The first of its kind in Mexico, where travellers 
 may eat in the hotel dining-room, have their meals sent to their rooms, or 
 
236 Route 42 . 
 
 MEXICO CITY Hotels, Restaurants. 
 
 do light housekeeping, as in a flat or a detached house. There is a good 
 grill room and restaurant where excellent food can be had at reasonable 
 prices. One can employ one’s own servant, or be served by the hotel em- 
 ployees. All the advantages of a hotel without the disadvantages of a 
 leased house and its attendant worries. Very popular with small families, 
 and cheaper than renting a house. Prices moderate. Special rates for a long 
 stay. Under the personal supervision of an experienced hotel man (Mr. 
 E. Elisondo , proprietor and manager) thoroughly familiar with American 
 methods. English spoken in all departments. 
 
 Hotel Imperial, a huge, modern hotel in the residential section of the 
 city, overlooking the beautiful Paseo de la Reforma , near the Cuauhtemoc 
 Statue (PI. E, 4) and the Colonia Station (of the National Railways). Ameri- 
 can management and ideas. American cuisine. Caters to both transients and 
 residents. In an unusually attractive location, away from the noise of the 
 centre of the city, and on the most fashionable boulevard in the Republic. 
 Within easy walking distance of the Castle and Forest of Chapultepec, the 
 Alameda, and all the new Colonias. Tram-cars pass the door every few min- 
 utes for various points in the city and suburbs. The traveller arriving at 
 the Colonia Station can go direct to the Imperial without a long taxicab or 
 luggage transfer. Personal hospitality and individual attention are char- 
 acteristic features of the Imperial, which is popular with American trav- 
 ellers. The dining-room is much favored by local society. The attractive 
 lobby, with its high ceiling and fine views, is celebrated for its splendid 
 examples of gilded church ornaments and Churrigueresque carvings. As 
 the hotel covers a flat-iron square, and thus faces in four directions, most 
 of the rooms are outside rooms, -with attendant sunshine and fresh air. 
 Rates: Room and bath (outside), $2.50 (U. S. money) a day. In the restau- 
 rant there is a special weekly rate for tourists, of S15 (U. S. money), for 3 
 meals a day. Very attractive rates for families and for a long stay. Under 
 the personal supervision of Mr. Geo. T. Braniff. English spoken. Member 
 the American Chamber of Commerce of Mexico. 
 
 The San Angel Inn, at San A ngel, Federal District (see p. 412 — Valley 
 Plan B, 4), a celebrated and popular hostelry, in an extraordinarily interest- 
 ing garden once a conventual estate, now converted into a suburban hotel 
 in the most beautiful section of the Valley of Mexico, and increasingly 
 popular with motorists and others — who make of it a rendezvous and a 
 terminus for one of the most picturesque auto rides from the city. The old 
 mission-style convent has been converted into one of the most attractive 
 inns imaginable, flower-crowned with an exquisite patio, long, rambling 
 corridors, and roof promenades whence one commands glorious views over 
 the Valley to the encircling mountains. Tables are set out under the giant 
 trees which once sheltered the pleasure-loving brothers of the religious order 
 who constructed the garden, and delicious food is served at reasonable 
 prices. No monasterial retreat in the Valley of Mexico is set in a more 
 artistic environment or is a greater delight to the senses. The tourist with 
 time to spare should not fail to see this one-time home of the brothers of 
 the tonsure. The Inn is in charge of an English-speaking French lady 
 known throughout Mexico for her culinary ability. Express tram-cars con- 
 nect the Inn with Mexico City, and run at frequent intervals. Open for 
 guests all the year round. Dinners a specialty. A delightful spot in which to 
 take afternoon tea. 
 
 Furnished Rooms ( cuartos amueblados ) are to be had in the city (about 
 $100 to $250 a month), but they do not always meet the requirements of the 
 traveller. A good room in a hotel, with the hotel service and its advantages, 
 usually is more satisfactory and just about as cheap. Consult some friend 
 who knows the city before arranging to take a furnished room or stop at a 
 Boarding House. The foregoing remarks do not, of course, apply to the 
 excellent Y. M. C. A., referred to hereinafter. 
 
 Restaurants and Cafes abound in the city; certain of the 110 in the city 
 and its suburbs serve regular meals (comidas corridas) at a fixed price, vary- 
 ing from one peso fifty centavos in the smaller places (not recommended), to 
 4 pesos and up in those of the better class. Most all of them serve ready-made 
 dishes ( plcUos sueltos or del did) a la carte. The cheaper places are often con- 
 ducted by persons notable for their ability to make over scraps into hashers 
 (picadiUo, salpicon) which do not appeal to Americans. The facility with 
 
Restaurants. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 4$. Route. 237 
 
 which one can contract typhoid or ptomaine poisoning in unhygienic 
 fonditas (little restaurants) and figones (chop houses), should bar them from 
 the tourist's itinerary. The traveller is particularly cautioned against an 
 over-indulgence of sea food in Mexico City. Native lovers of fish and oysters 
 often save their appetites for them until they reach the seashore. Really 
 fresh fish, excepting, perhaps, trout from nearby rivers, is not always to be 
 had in the capital, and intestinal disorders sometimes result from eating too 
 much of this otherwise delicious food. In Vera Cruz, Tampico, and other 
 coast cities, the fish is excellent. It is unusually well served in many of the 
 Mexico City restaurants, and is often eaten with impunity. Salads (un- 
 cooked) should be eaten sparingly and with caution, unless at places like 
 Sanborn's , and others, where the lettuce and other vegetables are carefully 
 washed in artesian water. It is best not to mix unknown fruits until one 
 learns their after effects — which sometimes are disquieting. 
 
 The economically inclined may like to remember that the principal meal 
 of the day in the Mexican capital is eaten at noon, or between 12 and 3. Usu- 
 ally it is served at a fixed price, and restaurateurs vie with one another in 
 keeping this price down. Handbills are often scattered through the street 
 to apprise possible patrons of what the menu will consist of, and its cost. 
 After the dinner hour meals are served a la carta, and then a single item 
 will cost almost as much as the entire meal served a short time before. Mex- 
 icans eat a light breakfast and a lighter supper. 
 
 While certain of the native restaurants advertise American dishes, they 
 do not, as a rule, know how to cook them in the American way. Many of 
 the dishes served are quite naturally Mexican in style and contents, and 
 some of them are delicious, but the prevalence of hot chiles (peppers) and 
 hotter sauces (appetising but insidious) tend to upset the American stomach. 
 Intestinal disorders are common in Mexico City, and much of the trouble 
 no doubt is due to indiscreet eating. The traveller fortunate enough to be 
 put up at one of the city’s foreign clubs (the food at the Country Club is 
 excellent) will perhaps find the ouisine to his liking. Foremost among the 
 strictly American restaurants, deservedly popular among Americans, and 
 a sort of cult among the diplomatic and aristocratic life of the capita', is the 
 internationally famous 
 
 Sanborn’s, in the beautiful old Jockey Club building (PI. G, 4), known 
 throughout the Americas as the Casa do los Azulejos (the House of Tiles) 
 — mentioned in detail at p. 326. Few if any restaurants on the continent are 
 so artistically and romantically appealing as the spacious, ornamental patio 
 of this celebrated house. In addition, the food is excellent, reasonable in 
 price, and well served. Club breakfasts, at varying prices, from 7.30 to 1 1 a., m. 
 Table d'Hdte Luncheons (usually about 2 pesos) from 12.30 to 2.30. Any- 
 thing a la carta throughout the day. Balcony Grill Service (in the balcony 
 overlooking the patio ) from 6 to 10 p. m. American in management, ideas, 
 and service. Spotlessly clean. Pure artesian water, from a deep well on the 
 premises, is used in the kitchen, and also for drinking (boiling unnecessary). 
 Almost any special American dish can be ordered. The (pure) milk comes 
 from a specially supervised dairy where American ideas of hygiene are rig- 
 idly practised. Excellent music at meals. Newspapers on the tables. 
 
 At twilight, and for some hours after, the patio customarily is thronged 
 with the wealth and fashion of the metropolis. At this time one can observe 
 the odd spectacle of distinguished members of Mexico’s elite society patiently 
 standing and waiting within the door for an unoccupied table. At this time 
 one is more apt to find a free table in the balcony, from which vantage point 
 one can look down upon as brilliant and picturesque a gathering as will be 
 found anywhere on the continent. On Sunday morning, after mass in the 
 beautiful Church of San Felipe de Jesus, just across the street, the Sanborn 
 patio is thronged with Spanish-Mexican sehoritas and sehoras, silken and 
 mantilla clad, and representing the beauty and charm of the metropolis. 
 There is dancing in the lovely ballroom four days in the week, and special 
 The Dansants at other times. Patronized by the highest classes. 
 
 Other restaurants are La Opera (Sylvains), Cor. 5 de Mayo and Filomena 
 Mata Sts. — Prendes , Ave. 16 de Septiembre, 4. — La Europea (Mex. food), 
 opposite Sanborn’s, under the Guardiola Hotel. — Cafe Chapultepec, at Cha- 
 pultepec Castle, expensive but much patronized by Mexicans on Sundays. 
 For addresses of other places consult the newspapers or the city directory. 
 
238 Route 42 . 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Taxicabs , Cabs. 
 
 b. Means of Transportation. 
 
 Taxicabs (taxis, autotaxlmetros) , Cabs ( coches de sitio, carruajes), and 
 Jitneys (Fords) , abound in the capital. The former are coming into use, but at 
 present swarms of Ford cars, most of them dilapidated, take their place. 
 The drivers are usually a parlous lot, many of them untrustworthy and 
 ever ready to overcharge. They spend much of their time striking for they 
 know not what. The traveller should try always to give the driver, or chafer 
 (sho-fer) the correct fare. At present this is $2.50 an hour, and $1.50 for 
 4 hr. or less. Thus from any of the rly. stations to any of the hotels is 
 $1.50. As much hand luggage as can be accommodated can be piled into the 
 machine, along with one or more passengers, and will be carried for this 
 price. Special arrangements should be made for out-of-town trips. For these, 
 larger cars, on the Hudson, Dodge or similar order, ply for hire and can be 
 rented (stands at various parts of the city) at from 4 to 6 pesos per hour. 
 $2.50 for 5 hr. An extra man usually accompanies the driver. 
 
 On leaving a rly. station the number of the car is taken by a policeman, 
 and the destination. This should be insisted upon, and the fare should 
 never fail to make a mental note of the number of the car, for future refer- 
 ence. Not unfrequently the chofer and his accomplice will drive a stranger 
 travelling alone to some distant part of the city and there rob him. Hand 
 baggage is often stolen, or run off with while the passenger’s back is turned 
 or he is in a hotel enquiring about rooms. Care should be taken to place all 
 baggage on the sidewalk, and there guard it, before paying the chofer. It 
 takes all the ingenuity of an exceptionally skilful and alert police force to 
 cope with the Mexico City chofers, and to aid them travellers should report 
 anv loss at once, to the nearest comiserla. 
 
 The sign, Listo, or Libre on an auto, means that it is disengaged. 
 .Every car is supposed to have a printed tariff ( tarifa ) in Spanish displayed 
 within view r of the passenger, and when a cabman or chofer is detected 
 demanding more than his just fare he is fined. Minor disputes can be settled 
 with the aid of the Inspector at the stand, but serious charges, such as theft or 
 violence, should be submitted to the Jefe at the nearest comiserla. At- 
 tempts to overcharge should be resisted. Should the chofer or driver persist, 
 order him to proceed to the nearest comiserla ( vamos a la comiserla). All the 
 chofers and drivers are registered at the Police Station ( gendarmerla , or 
 comiserla ) , and each man is expected to wear a number, and his photograph 
 pinned to his coat or displayed about Jiis person. ChapuUepec, Tacubaya 
 and similar places are outside the city limits (in which fares are adjusted), 
 and a special arrangement should be made with the driver for these places. 
 
 Cabs. A few still ply for hire and cater to a clientele which seeks a con- 
 veyance cheaper than a jitney. Most of them carry a blue flag (band era 
 nzul) and are open victorias. Fare $1 an hr.; 60 c. £ hr. or less. A better 
 class cab, styled Particular (individual) are sometimes seen. Fare double 
 that of the cheaper ones. 
 
 Double rates are often charged for autos and cabs on Sunday’s, Dias de 
 Fiesta, and Dias extraordinarias. The local holidays are shown below: 
 Legal Holiday’s (see p. cxix) on which business houses are closed, and taxi 
 and cab fares are higher. Every’ Sunday. 
 
 Full Holidays Half Holidays 
 
 Jan. 1st. New Year (aho nuevo) 
 
 April 13. Holy Thursday (Hueves 
 Santo) 
 
 April 14. Holy Friday ( Viernes 
 Santo) 
 
 May 5. Battle of Puebla (p. ccxxvii) 
 
 June 15. Corpus Christi (Corpus) 
 
 Sept. 16. Independence day’ (p. ccv) 
 
 Nov. 2d. Los Muertos (the dead) 
 
 Dec. 12. Nuestra Seflora de Guada- 
 lupe 
 
 Dec. 25. Christmas (Navidad) 
 
 Days on which the National Flag (el pabelldn) is raised, and the city takes 
 on a festive air are: 
 
 •Jan. 6. Los Reyes (the Kings) 
 
 May’ 25. The Ascension (ascencidn) 
 June 29. St. Peter and St. Paul (San 
 Pedro y San Pablo) 
 
 Aug. 15. The Assumption (la asun - 
 cidn) 
 
 Nov. 1. All Saints (todos santos ) 
 Dec. 8. La Purlsima (the Virgin) 
 
Tramways . MEXICO CITY 1+2. Route. 239 
 
 Feb. 5th. Anniversary of the promulgation of the Mexican Constitution. 
 March 21st. Anniversary of the birth of Benito Judrez. 
 
 May 8th. Anniversary of the birth of Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla. 
 
 May 15th. Anniversary of the taking of Quer^taro, in 1867. 
 
 May 21st. Anniversary of the taking of Mexico, in 1867. 
 
 Sept. 1st. Opening of Congress. 
 
 Sept. 15th. Grito de Independence, in Dolores, in 1810. 
 
 Sept. 30th. Anniversary of the birth of Morelos , in 1765. 
 
 Nov. 20th. Anniversary of the rising headed by Aquiles Serddn (in Puebla) 
 in 1910 — movement which culminated in the downfall of Porfirio Diaz. 
 Dec. 30th. Closing of Congress. 
 
 Days of National Mourning ( de Into nacional) , when the flag is at half 
 mast 0 media asta) : 
 
 Feb. 22d. Anniversary of the death of Francisco I. Madero , and J. M. Pino 
 Suarez (in 1913). 
 
 July 18th. Anniversary of the death of Benito Judrez. 
 
 July 30th. Anniversary of the execution of Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla , in 
 1811. 
 
 Dec. 22d. Anniversary of the execution of Morelos, in 1815. 
 
 Business men may like to remember that Saturday (a half day) and 
 Monday are usually busy days in commercial houses and travelling men with 
 proposals to make should seek other days for them. 
 
 Autobuses or Jitneys ( camiones , autocamiones) compete with the tram- 
 cars and run to various parts of the city, but the wise traveller will stay out 
 of them. The chofer often speeds according to his inclination (or state of 
 intoxication), and accidents are so common that only the nerveless and 
 those who believe themselves possessed of the luck of Fortunatus trust 
 themselves to them. On the other hand the tram service supplied by the 
 Mexican Tramways Co. ( Compania de Tranvias de Mexico, S. A.) — an 
 English company excellently managed by Englishmen and Canadians — is 
 efficient and thoroughly trustworthy. See below. 
 
 Tramways ( tranvias , comp. p. xxxvii). Electric traction 
 cars circulate to all parts of the city and centre at the Plaza 
 de la Constitucion (PL H, 4, p. 265). The cars stop at the near 
 side crossing. Trailers, or additional cars, are operated on 
 many lines during rush hours. On all the suburban lines, 
 trains composed of a 1st class motor car and a 2nd class trailer 
 are operated; the traveller should ascertain which is the 1st 
 class car. (The 2nd class, usually are patronized by the lower 
 class and are to be avoided.) Fares (stamped on tickets) vary 
 with the distance (from 10 c. in the city to 50 c. to Xochi - 
 milco) and no transfers are given. 
 
 On Sundays and feast-days, the suburban cars are apt to 
 be uncomfortably filled and it is necessary to go to the Plaza 
 de la Constitucidn to obtain a seat before the car starts. All 
 the city lines run every few minutes, and the suburban cars 
 run at intervals of from 6 to 40 minutes. On certain of these 
 lines there are rapidos which make but few stops and cover 
 the distance in quicker time than the ordinary trains. The 
 rule is to enter the car from the rear and pass out through the 
 front door. The system of collecting fares is subject to change; 
 the one in vogue at present is for the conductor to collect the 
 fare (give him the exact change when possible, and look well 
 to the change when this should be forthcoming) and give the 
 passenger a ticket which is mutilated by an Inspector who 
 boards the car during the journey. If a ticket is lost or de- 
 
240 Route 1$. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 stroyed before being inspected, a new one must be purchased. 
 
 Markers on the line poles bearing the word Parada indicate 
 where the cars stop. Smoking is prohibited. 
 
 The Guia Oflcial del Sistema de Tranvias de Mexico is an excellent little 
 guide to the tramway service and to various points reached by the lines. 
 Illustrated; compact. Obtainable at the Head Offices of the Mexico Tram- 
 ways Company, in the Calle de Gante No. 20. 
 
 The various routes are: 
 
 1. Tlalpam. Every 40 minutes, with a rdpido at certain 
 hours in the f. m. From the S. side of the Plaza de la Con- 
 stitucidn. Traverses the southern section of the city to the 
 Country Club and Tlalpam. 
 
 2. Xochimilco. Every 40 minutes. From the S. side of the 
 Plaza de la Constitucidn. Traverses the southern section of 
 the city to the Country Club, and on reaching Huipulco 
 station diverges from the line to Tlalpam and proceeds to 
 Xochimilco. 
 
 3. San Angel via Churubusco (E. 20 minutes). The car 
 follows the same route ( Xochimilco ) and turns to the W. just 
 before reaching the Country Club. A rdpido runs at stated 
 intervals during the day. 
 
 4. Guadalupe (E. 7 and 8 minutes). From the N.-E. corner 
 of the Plaza de la Constitucidn. Traverses the N. section of the 
 city, passes the Hidalgo Railway Station, and proceeds to 
 Guadalupe. 
 
 5. Ixtapalapa (E. 25 minutes). From the E. side of the 
 Plaza de la Constitucidn. Through Calles de la Moneda , 
 Jesus Maria , Cuauhtemotzin, and the Calzada de la Viga 
 (skirting the Canal Nacional) to Ixtapalapa .. 
 
 6. Aviation (E. 30 minutes). From E. side of the Plaza 
 de la Constitucidn. Runs due E. 
 
 7. San Angel (E. 16 minutes, with a rdpido at certain 
 hours). From the S. side of the Plaza de la Constitucidn. 
 Turns S. into the Avenida Uruguay , Calles de Victoria , 
 Ave. Morelos , Calles de Bucareli, and the Ave. Chapultepec , 
 to the Chapultepec Castle gate, whence it runs S. through 
 Tacuhaya and Mixcoac to its terminus in the Plaza de San 
 Jacinto at San Angel. Returning it traverses practically the 
 same route to the Calles del Ayuntamiento , thence through 
 these and their prolongation, to the Plaza. 
 
 8. Mixcoac (E. 16 minutes, with a rdpido at certain hours). 
 From the S. side of the Plaza de la Constitucidn. Follows the 
 same route as the San Angel car. 
 
 9. Tacubaya (E. 8 minutes, with a rdpido at certain hours). 
 From the S. side of the Plaza de la Constitucidn. Follows the 
 same route as the San Angel car to Tacuhaya and returns the 
 same way. Passengers for Tacuhaya have the choice of these, 
 as well as of the Mixcoac and San Angel cars. The San Angel , 
 Mixcoac , and Tacuhaya cars all stop at Chapultepec Castle 
 gate, going and returning. 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 42 . Route. 241 
 
 10. Atzcapotzalco (E. 10 minutes). From W. side of the 
 Plaza de la Constitucion . Follows the Ave. 16 de Septiembre 
 and the Calle de San Juan de Letran to the Ave. Hidalgo , the 
 Calles del Puente de Alvarado , and through the Calles Hon- 
 duras, and Tacuba, to Atzcapotzalco. Returning it traverses 
 practically the same route to the Ave. Hidalgo and the Calles 
 de Tacuba to the Plaza. 
 
 11. Tacuba (E. 10 minutes). From same terminus, follows 
 above route going and returning. 
 
 12. Tlalnepantla (E. 30 minutes). From E. side of the 
 Plaza Hidalgo ( Atzcapotzalco ) to Tlalnepantla. 
 
 13. Santa Maria Alameda (E. 6 minutes). From the W. 
 side of the Plaza de la Constitucion. Follows the Ave. 16 de 
 Septiembre to San Juan de Letran, then turns N. and traverses 
 the latter and the Calle del Teatro Nacional to the Ave. 
 Hidalgo (flanking the Alameda on the N.), thence the Calles 
 del Puente de Alvarado, Buena Vista and Estaciones to the 
 Colonia de Santa Maria, returning via Naranjo, Sor Juana 
 Ines de la Cruz, Cipres, Honduras , Puente de Alvarado, Ave. 
 Hidalgo and the several Calles de Tacuba to the Plaza. 
 
 14. Santa Maria la Rosa (E. 6 minutes). Follows the same 
 route of the Santa Maria Alameda cars as far as the corner 
 of Amado Ye?Wand Chopo ( Colonia de Santa Maria), then 
 turning and continuing through the Calles del Chopo to its 
 terminus at the 8th Calle de la Rosa. Returning from the 
 corner of the 8th Calle de la Rosa and 7th Calle del Fresno, 
 along the latter to the 6th Calle de Sor Juana Ines de la Cruz, 
 turning and continuing via Estaciones, Buena Vista, Calles 
 del Puente de Alvarado, Ave. Hidalgo, Calles de Tacuba to the 
 Plaza. 
 
 15. San Rafael via Hombres Ilustres (E. 5 minutes). Over 
 the same route as above to Puente de Alvarado, thence through 
 the Calles de Honduras, the Colonia San Rafael and Tlaxpana, 
 and back to the Plaza. 
 
 16. San Rafael via Las Artes (E. 11 minutes). From the 
 W. side of the Plaza de la Constitucion. Follows the Ave. 16 
 de Septiembre and the Ave. de la Independencia to Dolores, 
 thence through the Ave. Juarez to the Calle de las Artes, via 
 Ave. del Palacio Legislativo (passing in the rear of the Cafe 
 Col6n) to the Calles de Manuel Maria Contreras, its terminal. 
 Returning via the Calles de Honduras, Puente de Alvarado, 
 Ave. Hidalgo, Calles de Tacuba to the Plaza. 
 
 17. Colonia (E. 6 minutes). Over the same route as above 
 to Calle de las Artes, thence to the Alameda in Santa Maria 
 via Industria and the San Cosme Market. Returning to the 
 Paseo via the de Calles la Industria, Las Artes, and the Ave. 
 del Palacio Legislativo, the cars cross the Paseo and reach the 
 Plaza through the Calles de Nuevo Mexico and their prolonga- 
 tion. 
 
242 Route 42 . 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Tram-cars. 
 
 18. Juarez-Loreto Circuito No. i (E. 10 minutes). Starting 
 from the corner of the Calle de Bucareli and 1st Calle de Lu- 
 cerna the cars go through the latter, traverse the Paseo de la 
 Re forma, pass the National Railway Station (see p. 233) and 
 proceed to the Central Railway Station and the Mexican 
 Railway Station at Buena Vista (see p. 233); then through 
 the X. quarter of the city along the CaUes del Carmen , Correa 
 Mayor , the Ave. Uruguay , CaUes de Victoria . Ave. Morelos , and 
 the CaUes de Bucareli to the corner of the latter and 1st 
 Lucerna , its terminus. 
 
 18 bis. Juarez-Loreto Circuito No. 2 (E. 11 minutes). 
 From the 1st Calle de Lucerna and Bucareli . through the latter, 
 the CaUes del Ayuntamiento , Ave. Republica del Salvador, 
 CaUes de Roldan, La Alhondiga, La Santisima, Leona Vicario, 
 CaUes de Mixcalco, Donceles , La Santa Veracruz, Calle de 
 Soto , Ave. Hidalgo: passing the Mexican and Central Railway 
 Stations at Buena Vista, thence to the National Railway Sta- 
 tion. Crossing the Paseo de la Reforma , the cars turn left to 
 the CaUes de Roma, and Versalles, then proceed along the 
 CaUes de Lucerna to the comer of this street and Bucareli, 
 the end of the line. 
 
 19. Rastro and Viga (E. 8 and 9 minutes). Starting from the 
 Slaughter House, traversing the Calles del Cobre , Boleo, Canal 
 del Norte , the Aves. Peralvillo and Brasil, the W. side of the 
 Plaza de la Constitucion, the CaUes del 5 de Febrero, Cu - 
 auhtemotzin to the comer of the Calzada de la Viga and the 
 Calle jon de San Antonio Abad, the terminal. Returning 
 through the same portion of the city to the Slaughter House. 
 
 20. Penitenciaria and Nino Perdido (E. 6 minutes). From 
 the Calles del Nino Perdido along the CaUes Sa?i Juan de 
 Ijctrdn, thence through the Ave. Republica del Salvador , Ave. 
 Pino Suarez (flanking the Plaza de la Constitucion on the E. 
 side), the Calle del Seminario, Ave. Republica Argentina, Ave. 
 Republica de Colombia, CaUes de Lecumherri, CaUes de Peni- 
 tenciaria to terminal at the Penitentiary. Returning through 
 the same portion of the city to the corner of the Calle del 
 Dr. Lavista and Calle del Nino Perdido to the end of the line. 
 
 21. Peralvillo and Insurgentes (E. 4 minutes). From the 
 corner of the .4 re. Oaxaca and Ave. ChapuUepec via Plaza de 
 la Constitucion to Peralvillo. Returning from the Peralvillo 
 Station via the Plaza de la Constitucidn, Ave. 16 de Septiembre , 
 ,4 re. Independence and the CaUes de Revillagigedo and the 
 Belem Prison, to Insurgentes. 
 
 22. Guerrero and San Lazaro (E. 4 minutes). From the Calle 
 de Guerrero (in the X. Central part of the city) to the San 
 Lazaro Station (PI. J, 4). 
 
 23. Dolores (E. 30 minutes). From the Cambio de Dolores 
 (W. side of the Chapultepec Castle) to the Dolores Cemetery. 
 Returns the same way. 
 
Tram-cars. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 1$. Route. 243 
 
 24. Piedad (E. 30 minutes). From the S. side of the Plaza 
 de la Constitution, following the Ave. 16 de Septiembre , Ave. 
 Independencia , the Calles de Revillagigedo to the Tacubaya 
 line at the junction of the Calles de Bucareli and Calzada de la 
 Piedad , which it traverses to La Piedad. Returns same way 
 as far as Bucareli, thence through the Calles Nuevo Mexico, and 
 Capuchinas to the Plaza. 
 
 25. Zaragoza (E. 6 minutes). From the Plaza de la Con- 
 stitution to the Calle de Mercado, in the N. Central district. 
 
 26. Martinez de la Torre (E. 6 minutes). From the Plaza 
 de la Constitution to the Plaza Martinez de la Torre (near the 
 
 CnlJp rtp Mprrnrln') 
 
 27. Penon (E. 30 minutes). From the N.-E. side of the 
 Plaza de la Constitution, through the E. portion of the city to 
 the Penon. 
 
 28. Alta Vista (E. 20 minutes). From the San Angel Station 
 to San Angel Inn. 
 
 29. Colonia del Valle (E. 20 minutes). From the Plaza de 
 la Constitution, taking the same route of the Condesa line as 
 far as Insurgentes, then along the Ave. Veracruz to Colonia 
 del Valle and Mixcoac. Returning over the same route to 
 Insurgentes and taking the inbound route of the Condesa cars. 
 
 30. Condesa (E. 8 minutes). From the Plaza de la Con- 
 stitution through the S.-E. part of the city and Juarez , Condesa 
 and Colonia Roma Colonies, to Ave. Jalapa. Returning 
 through Jalapa to the Colonia Roma and Juarez to Bucareli , 
 thence to the Plaza. 
 
 31. Correo Roma (E. 8 minutes). From the Plaza de la 
 Constitution (S. side) passing in front of the Post-Office; 
 traverses the N.-W. section of the city as far as San Fernando , 
 then along Rosales and Bucareli Streets and over the Condesa 
 route as far as Jalapa to the terminal. Returning via Jalapa 
 and the Ave. Jalisco to the Calzada de la Piedad and Bucareli 
 to the Plaza. 
 
 32. Don Toribio y Santiago (E. 4 minutes). From Don 
 Toribio the cars traverse the city from S. to N. to the Plaza de 
 Santiago; returning through the Calles de Allende and Bolivar 
 N. to S. to Don Toribio, the end of the line. 
 
 33. Hospital General (E. 7 minutes). From the E. side of 
 the Plaza de la Constitution, along the side of the National 
 Palace, through the Correo Mayor , Regina , Arcos de Belem, 
 and the Ave. Ninos Heroes to the Hospital Building. Return- 
 ing through the Colonia de los Doctores, Arcos de Belem, San 
 Miguel, the Ave. Pino Suarez to the Plaza. 
 
 34. La Venta (E. 60 minutes). From the Plaza Cartagena, at 
 Tacubaya to La Venta (for El Desierto de los Leones ), over 
 the Toluca branch. Returning to Tacubaya the same way. 
 
 35. Panteon Espanol (E. 30 minutes). From the Plaza de 
 Tacuba to the Panteon Espanol. Returning same way. 
 
244 Route 42 . 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 36. Roma via Pie dad (E. 8 minutes). From the W. side of 
 the Plaza de la Constitucidn , along the Ave. 16 de Septiembre, 
 Ave. hidependencia, and the Ave. Juarez to the Caballito , then 
 along Bucareli and the Calzada Piedad to the Ave. Jalisco and 
 the corner of the Calle de Jalapa, the end of the line. Return 
 via the Ave. Veracruz to Insurgentes , then over the same route 
 of the Condesa cars as far as the corner of Bucareli and Nuevo 
 Mexico; continuing to the Plaza de la Reforma ( Caballito ), 
 then Calle Rosales, the Ave. Hidalgo , and the Calles de Tacuba 
 to the Plaza. 
 
 36 bis. Roma via Oaxaca (E. 8 minutes). From the W. side 
 of the Plaza de la Constitucidn; follows the above route as far 
 as the corner of Calle Bucareli and Ave. Chapultepec, thence 
 through Ave. Oaxaca , passing in front of the Bull-ring and 
 proceeding to the corner of Ave. Jalisco and Calle Jalapa. 
 Returning over the route of the C-orreo Roma line as far as the 
 corner of the Calle Bucareli and Nuevo Mexico , from which 
 point the car follows the route of the Roma via Piedad cars to 
 the Plaza. 
 
 37. Santa Maria Roma via Insurgentes (E. 24 minutes). 
 Starting from Colonia Santa Marla, 7th Flores, traversing the 
 Colonias Santa Maria , San Rafael, Juarez , and Roma to Calls 
 Jalapa. Returning over the route of the Roma-Oaxaca line as 
 far as the corner of Rosales and Puente de Alvarado , from which 
 point cars continue along the route of the Santa Maria Alameda 
 cars. 
 
 37 bis. Santa Maria Roma via Bucareli (E. 24 minutes). 
 From Santa Maria , 7th Flores, follows the route of the Santa 
 Maria Alameda line on its inbound trip as far as Puente de 
 Alvarado and Rosales, then along the Plaza de la Reforma , 
 the Calles de Bucareli , and Calzada de la Piedad to the Ave. 
 Jalisco and the Calle de Jalapa. The return trip is from the 
 Ave. Jalisco and the Calle Jalapa to the Ave. Veracruz and 
 Ave. Insurgentes, crossing the Pasco de la Reforma , passing in 
 front of the National Railway Depot, then following the 
 3rd Calle de Ramdn Guzman to the corner of . JJh Artes; from 
 this point cars proceed along the route of the inbound Colonia 
 cars to Santa Maria. 
 
 38. Tulyehualco (E. 60 minutes). From Plaza de Xochi- 
 milco over the Puebla branch to Tulyehualco. Returning the 
 same wav. 
 
 39. Tizapan (E. 60 minutes). From La Merced Market, 
 along the Ave. Uruguay , Victoria , Ave. Morelos, to Bucareli 
 and the Calzada de la Piedad to Tizapan. Returning same 
 wav as far as Bucareli and Ayuntamiento , then turning and 
 continuing through the latter and the Ave. Republica del 
 Salvador to La Merced Market. 
 
 40. Granada (E. 60 minutes). Starts from 3rd Ave. Guate- 
 mala, and traverses the N.-E. part of the city to the Calle de 
 Granada. Returning same way. 
 
MEXICO CITY 42 . Route. 244 a 
 
 41. San Fernando (E. 40 minutes). From Tlalpam Station 
 to San Fernando in front of the Hospital. Returning same 
 
 way. 
 
 For additional information consult the Guia Oficial issued 
 by the Company. 
 
 c. Post, Telegraph, Railway, Steamship and Express Offices; 
 Automobile Garages. 
 
 Post and Telegraph Offices (comp. p. xli). The ornate and attractive Cen- 
 tral Post Office ( Correo ) is at the cor. of the 1st Calle de Tacuba and the Calle 
 del Tedtro Nacional (PI. G, 4), near the top (E. end) of the Alameda, and 
 opposite the new Tedtro Nacional. There are various branches throughout 
 the capital. Travellers should frequently inspect the lists ( listas ) of un- 
 delivered letters (illegible addresses, change of location, etc.) posted in the 
 lobby of the P. O., and arranged alphabetically. The Mex. Postal System 
 is as accurate and as efficient as that of any country (much more so than 
 that of many countries), but even it cannot cope with the abbreviators, 
 rapid writers and slip-shod addressers who hastily trust their missives to tne 
 mail and help to swell the millions of letters annually destroyed in the dead 
 letter office. 
 
 The Government Telegraph Office is in the Edificio de Comunicaciones y 
 Obras Publicas (2d floor, right) in the 1st Calle de Tacuba (PI. G, 4), opposite 
 the School of Mines, and diagonally across from the Central Post Office. 
 For a description of the building see p. 331. 
 
 The Cable Office (Mexican Telegraph Co.) is at the cor. of San Judn de 
 Letrdn and the Avenida de la Independencia (PI. G, 4). 
 
 Railway and Steamship Offices. The head offices (ticket and administra- 
 tive) of the National Railways of Mexico (referred to at p. xxxii, and 233) 
 are in the large and handsome Edificio de los Ferrocarriles Nacionales, at 
 the cor. the Ave. 5 de Mayo and the 2a Calle de Bolivar (PI. G, 4). Branch 
 ticket offices at the different rly. stations. — The Pullman Co.’s office is 
 in the building (upstairs) at the cor. of the Ave. 5 de Mayo and the Calle del 
 Tedtro Nacional (PI. G, 4). Tickets are on sale and reservations can be 
 made at the rly. ticket offices. Information relating to the different rlys. 
 in Mexico and the U. S. A. can be had at the General Offices of the National 
 Lines. For data about the Kansas City, Mexico & Orient Rly. consult the 
 Mexican International Trust Co., Calle de la Condesa, 8, Cor. 5 de Mayo. 
 The head office of the Mexican Railway is at the Buena Vista Station 
 (PI. E, 3) ; City Ticket Office in the Hotel del Coliseo, in the 3d Calle de 
 Bolivar No. 28 (PI. G, 4). The Southern Pacific Rly. of Mexico, 5 de Mayo 
 32, 3d floor. For the addresses of other lines consult the local directory. 
 
 Steamship Offices (comp. p. xxxi). The Mexico office of the New York 
 & Cuba Mail Steamship Go. (The Ward Line — R. C. Burns, General 
 Mexican Agent) is in the Ave. Independencia No. 7. — The Mexican Navi- 
 gation Co. ( Companla Naviera Mexicana, S. A. — Torcuato Mar cor. Gen- 
 eral Agent) is in the 2a Calle de Gante No. 19. — Pacific Mail Steamship 
 Co. (Berea, O'Kelly & Co., Agts.), Ave. 5 de Mayo, 15. — The Mexican 
 States S. S. Line ( Companla Naviera de los Estados de Mexico, S. A. — R. C. 
 Burns, Passenger Agt., Ave. Independencia, 7. — A. Grimwood & Co., San 
 Juan de Letran No. 5, Freight Agents). — French Transatlantic Line, 
 la Gante No. 11; Spanish Transatlantic Line, Ave. Uruguay, No. 40. For 
 other lines see the Telephone Directory, under Agendas de Vapores. 
 
 Express Offices ( oficinas de Express). The office of the express (formerly 
 Wells, Fargo & Co.) operated by the National Lines (F. C. Nacionales) is 
 in the Ave. de la Republica de Chile (formerly Calle de Manrique) No. 8. 
 Branch offices at the railway stations. 
 
 Automobile Garages are to be found all over the city. Those of most 
 interest to foreigners are in or near the Ave. Judrez (hard by the Hotel Regis) 
 and the Paseo de la Reforma. Autos can be hired to the best advantage with 
 the help of the hotel manager. — Gasoline costs (usually) from 80 c. to one 
 peso a gal. The gov’t auto tax (subject to change) is about $9 a month. 
 Chofers get from $100 to $175 a month. 
 
2446 Route £2. MEXICO CITY Embassies , Clubs , etc . 
 
 d. Embassies, Consulates, Physicians, Dentists, Clubs, Chamber of 
 Commerce, Y. M. C. A., Red Cross. 
 
 Ambassadors, Ministers, and (or) Consuls ( Embajadores , Ministros, y 
 Cdnsules) represent nearly all the foreign governments. So many new houses 
 are under construction in the capital — houses with modern conveniences 
 necessary to foreigners — that embassies, legations and consulates are apt 
 to change locations. The latest directory ( directorio ) of the city, or the 
 Telenhone Directory will give the correct street address. 
 
 American Physicians and Dentists have offices usually in or near the 
 Calle de Gante , on the Ave. Madero between Gante and the Ave. Juarez, or 
 in Independencia, 5 de Mayo, or San J udn de Letrdn — all near one another. 
 Consult the local directory or the Telephone book. On reaching Mexico 
 City ask some friend the name of a good physician; then if one requires his 
 services one can call him up. 
 
 It is a good plan to get from some local friend or acquaintance an inkling 
 of what a dentist’s or doctor’s usual fees are, before employing one. Certain 
 of them are very ‘ high church ’ in the matter of professional etiquette, but 
 ethics do not always prevent some demanding exorbitant fees from the 
 unsuspecting tourist who trusts himself to them. 
 
 Clubs. American Club, Ave. 16 de Septiembre, 14. — British Club, la 
 Capuchinas, 23 (good library; largest English club in the Republic). — Ger- 
 man Club (Casino Aleman; Deutsches Haus), 2a Calle de Lopez, 23. Has 
 an extensive library and a good membership. Fine ballroom and reception 
 room. — Casino Espahol (Spanish Club — the King of Spain is a member), 
 Ave. Isabel la Catolica, 29 (between Ave. Madero and 16th of Sept.). Good 
 concerts and literary entertainments. — Cercle Frangais (French Club) , 
 la Motolinfa, 11. — University Club, 2a Bucareli, 35 (one of the most prom- 
 inent of the city clubs). — Automdvil Club de Mexico, S. A., 4a Humboldt, 
 39. — Reforma Athletic Club, 2a Capuchinas, 44. — The Country Club (see 
 p. ^07), in Churubusco; a delightful suburban club; fine entertainments, 
 excellent cuisine; charming environment. — The Rotary Club (F. W. Teele, 
 President; K. M. Van Zandt, Jr., and A. Garza Galindo, vice-presidents) is 
 now prominent in Mexico. Consult the officers for details. 
 
 The Young Men’s Christian Association ( Asodacion Cristiana deJdvencs), 
 Ave. Balderas 79. A fine organization doing excellent work. Young men 
 cannot do better than to get in touch with this southern extension of the 
 American society. Good rooms and meals at reasonable prices. Club House. 
 Sports. Gym. Etc. Deserving. Helpful. Cooperates extensively in physical 
 work in Gov’t Schools, Mission Schools, and in city playground activities. 
 Held in high esteem by Mexicans and foreigners alike. Branches in many 
 cities of the Republic. 
 
 Chambers of Commerce. The American C. of Com. is at 2d Motolinla, 
 23. — The British C. of C. in the Plazuela Colegio de NiHas, 4- Each works 
 to further the interests of its nationals in Mexico. 
 
 Red Cross ( La Cruz Roja Mexicana). Branch at 2a San Jerdnimo No. 14- 
 
 For the street addresses of the 80 or more Clubs, Unions and Societies in 
 the capital, consult the local directory (published by the American Book & 
 Printing Co., Ave. Madero 25 — PI. G, 4). 
 
 e. Lodges. Secret Societies, Banks, Money-Changers, Shops, Cigars 
 and Cigarettes, Booksellers, Photographers, Chemists, etc. 
 
 Lodges and Secret Societies. Those subject to the Grand Lodge 
 
 Valle de Mexico are: 
 
 Toltec (works in English); Andhuoc (Eng.); Germania (in German); 
 and the Benito Juarez. Lealtad, Union, Felix Diaz and Ignacio Ramirez , 
 all of which work in Spanish. All are Blue Lodges. 
 
 The Royal Arch Chapter (under the jurisdiction of the Grand Chapter 
 of Texas), the Commcndery Knights Templar (under the jurisdiction of 
 the General Grand Commandery of the United States) and the Anezeh 
 Temple Ancient Arabic Order Mystic Shrine (under the jurisdiction of the 
 Imnerial Council of North America), work in English. 
 
 The Ancient and Accepted Scottish Rite (the governing bod v of which 
 is the Supreme Comim i! of Mexico) ; The Council Knights Kcdosh, Chapter 
 Ro*e Croix, and the Lodge oj Perfection, all work in Spanish. 
 
 The Kn : ghts of Pythias, Valle de Mexico Lodge No. 2 (under the Grand 
 Lodge cf Texas), works in English. Of the 
 
Banks and Banking, MEXICO CITY J+2, Route. 244 c 
 
 I. O. O. F. there is the Ridgely Lodge (English) and the Germania 
 Lodge (German). 
 
 Meeting place, Ave. Morelos 2 4 (PL F, 4). Consult the newspapers, under 
 Lodge Notices, for dates of meetings and other information. 
 
 Banks ( bancos ). Of the 3 score bancos in the city only a limited few are of 
 interest to the tourist. Nearly every foreign country of importance is repre- 
 sented by a banking corporation, a list of which will be found in the local 
 directory. Preeminent among the American and Canadian Banks (those 
 most popular with Americans and British) are The Mexico City Banking 
 Corporation, S. A. ( Eman L. Beck, Pres't), Ave. Madero 14 (PI. G,4), and 
 The Bank of Montreal ( H . Weldon, Manager), Ave. 5 de Mayo 2 (in the 
 Mutual Life Ins. Bldg. — Pl. G, 4). At either of these drafts, letters-of- 
 credit, travellers’ checks, etc., may be cashed (or drawn), and a general 
 banking business transacted. Both have branches or correspondents 
 throughout the Republic. — Conspicuous among the other important 
 financial institutions are The Mexican International Trust Co., S. A. (an 
 American institution — Samuel W. Rider, Pres't), Calle Condesa, 8 (PI, 
 G, 4). — The Banque Frangalse du Mexique (R. Amilien Lacaud, Pres't), 
 Isabel la Catolica, 40 (Pl. G, 4); Banco Nacionalde Mexico, Isabel la Cato- 
 lica, 44, etc. 
 
 Many of the banks are closed between 12.30 and 3 p. m. each day, while 
 all, or nearly all, observe the various holidays. 
 
 Trade Accept ances in Mexico. American business men will be inter- 
 ested in the following interpretation (by Mr. John Clausen, Vice-President of 
 the Mexico City Banking Corporation, S. A.) of the Mexican laws relating 
 to Trade Acceptances (which differ somewhat from those in the U. S. A.). 
 
 The legal dispositions of acceptances are uniform in all 
 States of the Republic, and in the Commercial Code are 
 defined as follows: 
 
 First. Drafts drawn in one place to the order of a given 
 party, payable in a city other than where the draft is issued. 
 Such drafts are termed Letras de Cambio (Bills of Exchange), 
 and in accordance with Provision No. 449, the issuance of a 
 Letra de Cambio presupposes the existence of a contract by 
 which a person obligates himself to place funds to the order of 
 another person in a different placd or locality than the one 
 where the bill is issued. 
 
 The legal requisites for the validity of a bill of exchange are 
 as follows: 
 
 Date of Issuance. Amount to be Paid. 
 
 Name or Commercial Style of the Party against whom 
 the Draft is drawn. 
 
 Date when the Payment is to be made. 
 
 Place where the Payment is to be made. 
 
 Name of the Party in whose Favor the Draft has been 
 issued. 
 
 The Kind of Value received by the Party who issues 
 the Draft, and his Signature. 
 
 The draft is made perfect by the drawee’s acceptance, 
 which has to bear — 
 
 Place and Date of Acceptance. 
 
 Word acepto (accepted) or aceptamos (we accept) , and 
 the Drawee’s Signature. 
 
 Second. The other form of draft is called libranza, 
 which is a bill of exchange issued by a person to the order of 
 
244d Route 42 . MEXICO CITY Banks and Banking. 
 
 another and drawn against a third party, the drawer and the 
 drawee residing in the same place. 
 
 The requisites of such a bill are the same as those men- 
 tioned in connection with the first heading, and in order to 
 make the instrument perfect the drawee must accept it in the 
 same way. 
 
 The law provides that once the bill of exchange or libranza 
 is accepted, the acceptor is obliged to pay, and cannot refuse 
 such payment unless it can be proved that the drawer’s, 
 drawee’s or acceptor’s signature is forged. 
 
 The bill of exchange and the libranza may be drawn at 
 sight, at usance after sight, or at a fixed date. For those that 
 are drawn at sight or usance a previous presentation is neces- 
 sary to drawee. For those drawn payable at a certain date a 
 previous presentation is not necessary. 
 
 At the option of the holder such bills of exchange payable 
 within Mexican territory and for which previous presentation 
 is obligatory, the presentation to the drawee must be made 
 within the following periods from date of issuance, viz. : 
 
 Within Two Months if drawn any Place in the Repub- 
 lic. 
 
 Within Three Months if drawn in the United States or : 
 Europe, and 
 
 Within Four Months if drawn any other Place in the I 
 World. 
 
 Both bills of exchange and libranzas are endorsable docu- j 
 ments, and in accordance with Provision No. 477 of the Com- ; 
 mercial Code, the endorsement must contain the date, the i 
 value received by the party endorsing the instrument, and the j 
 name of the person to whom it is endorsed. Endorsements S 
 may be made in blank with the sole signature of the holder j 
 appearing on the instrument, and to exercise the rights derived j 
 from such an endorsement, it is necessary to fill in the afore- :i 
 mentioned requisites before legal action can be taken. 
 
 If, upon presentation, such instruments are not accepted, 
 or not paid, they must be protested before a Notary Public 
 in order that the holder of the draft may keep his rights to 
 collect the amount from a subsequent endorser, the drawer, 
 or the acceptor. 1 
 
 Letras de Cambio and Libranzas give to the holder the 
 right to obtain an immediate order of attachment if the docu- 
 ment is not paid when it falls due, but prior to such an action | 
 the acceptor must be called to court in order to acknowledge 
 his signature. 
 
 The student interested in this subject may consult “ Present 
 and Past Banking in Mexico,” by Walter Flaiius Me Caleb; also 
 “ Trading with Mexico,” by Wallace Thompson; for sale by the 
 American Book and Printing Co., Ave. Madero, 25, Mexico 
 City. 
 
Shops . 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route . 244e 
 
 Money Exchanges ( cambios de diner o) exist in many places in the city, 
 but better rates can usually be obtained at the aforementioned banks. 
 Beware of counterfeit money when dealing with unknown and irresponsible 
 parties. Silver money is often discounted. 
 
 Shops (comp. p. lxix). Many of the Mexico City shops and stores com- 
 pare favorably with the best of those in New York, Paris, and London. 
 English is spoken in most of them, prices are fixed (no haggling), and stocks 
 are unusually attractive. While certain articles are (because of excessive im- 
 port duties) higher than similar ones in the U. S. A., others, on the contrary, 
 are materially cheaper. Because of this, travellers often find it to their 
 advantage to stock up while in Mexico. The notorious fact that Americans, 
 Frenchmen and others can often buy home manufactured products cheaper 
 abroad (because of tariff protection) than they can at home, is exemplified 
 in Mexico — where the cheapness of the money limits the buying power 
 of the people and where prices must be quoted within their reach. 
 
 Prominent among the things cheaper in Mexico than in the U. S. A., are 
 diamonds, pearls (which are found in Mexican waters — comp. La Paz, 
 p. 86) and gems of all kinds (which pay an import duty by weight, rather 
 than value), jewelry, fine laces, linen goods (much beautiful drawn-linen 
 is made in Mexican convents, etc.), French lingerie and many articles ©f 
 women’s wear, fine European glassware, etc., paintings, and a number of 
 things on display in the jewelry stores, department stores, antique shops, 
 etc. A very material saving can be effected by buying fine Panama Hats in 
 Mexico, where they are always in style and are much worn. Mexican Opals 
 are known everywhere for their brilliancy and (the best) durability. Some 
 of them are equal to those of Hungary and the Ural Mts. 
 
 The fine Mexican Zarapes are unique, and the tightly woven ones can 
 be used either as blankets or rugs. The strongest sunlight fails to start the 
 vegetable dyes used in the coloring of the best ones, which usually are so 
 thick that they will hold water temporarily. These (as well as other articles) 
 should always be bought of reputable dealers who will guarantee quality, 
 since certain unscrupulous persons show the Indian makers of them how 
 to mix horsehair with the excellent Mexican wool, and this materially 
 decreases the life and wearing quality of the finished article. The heavy, 
 closely woven Mex. bed blankets made in the Mex. mills wear like iron and 
 are superior to, and cheaper than, the foreign article. 
 
 Many beautiful examples of old Chinese procelains are sometimes to be 
 found in the antique shops, relics of the early days when richly laden gal- 
 leons took the silver from Mexican mines to exchange for the opulent prod- 
 ucts of the Philippines and Cathay. Rare and immensely valuable paint- 
 ings by early European masters still exist in out-of-the-way plac es in Mexico, 
 while many beautiful and romantic relics of the Maximilian epoch and 
 the early Spanish occupation (old jewelry, porcelains, laces, mantillas, 
 decorated fans, embroideries, church vestments, iron chests, silver can- 
 delabra, miniatures, etc., etc.) can be had in the best antique shops. Unlike 
 the Japanese and Chinese (as well as most Europeans), the Mexicans are 
 not good imitators of antiques, and no factories for their production exist 
 in the Republic. An antique in Mexico, unless it be an imitation of crude 
 pottery or something of that sort, usually is an antique. 
 
 Ma,ny of the Shops in the Capital have signs placed in prominent places 
 advising customers that no goods will be exchanged after they have left the 
 store. American women in general like the liberal spirit of the big Ameri- 
 can stores, where allowance is made for a change of mind, ideas or plans, 
 and where goods are cheerfully exchanged; so in making the list which fol- 
 lows, the author has kept this preference in mind. The shops listed have 
 been selected with scrupulous attention to the needs of the traveller and 
 the trustworthiness of the dealer. The writer believes each to be the best in 
 his respective line, and he unequivocally recommends them. 
 
 Antique Shops. The Aztec Land, Ave. Madero, 24 (PL G, 4). — The Sonora 
 New o Co., Ave. Madero 17 (PI. G, 4). Fixed prices; fair treatment. 
 
 Jewelry Stores. La Perla (Diener Hermanos, Sues., S. en C.), Ave. 
 Madero 38 (PI. G, 4). Finest in the Republic and best liked by Americans. 
 Agents for American and Swiss watches. 
 
 Department Stores (similar to the great establishments of New York 
 and Boston), El Palacio de Hierro (The Iron Palace), Ave. 5 de Febrero 
 and 4a Capuchinas (PI. G, 4). English spoken in all departments. Fixed 
 prices. Largest and best of its class in the Republic. 
 
24.4/ Route J$. MEXICO CITY Cigars and Cigarettes. 
 
 Mexican Cigars and Cigarettes (comp. p. lxxvi) are on sale almost every- 
 where throughout the city at the tobacconists ( tabaquerias ). Mexico is a 
 land of good cigars and cigarettes, and they add materially to the pleasure 
 of a tobacco-lover’s sojourn in the country. Cabbage stogies, deadly ‘two- 
 fers’ and alfalfa Havanas are unknown in this land where tobacco was 
 first cultivated, and where its charms were known to Montezuma’s courtiers 
 a century or more before the Dutch bought Manhattan Island from the Five 
 Nations. Foreigners are the largest consumers of the native cigars (puros), 
 and as these are apt to be a trifle stronger than the average American cigar, 
 the traveller may like his to be claro , or Colorado , or Colorado claro (mild) 
 rather than maduro (strong). A fine cigar that would cost 50 cents in New 
 York can be bought here for half that price or less. 
 
 The Mexican cigars best liked by foreigners generally are the Rica, Hoja, 
 Violeta, and Sin Rival brands, made by Gustavo Mayer & Co., Orizaba 
 (State of Vera Cruz), and La Prueba bra?ids of Balsa Hermanos (brothers) 
 of Vera Cruz (State of Vera Cruz) . As both of these makes are often im- 
 itated, the traveller, when buying cigars, should be sure that he is getting 
 the legitimate brands. He should never buy cigars from street vendors, 
 both for the reason that he is almost certain to be cheated, and also because 
 the cigars perhaps have been made with unclean hands. The brands men- 
 tioned are handled by the best dealers everywhere. They cost no more 
 than spurious grades, and they are infinitely better. The special fragrance 
 characteristic of the best Mex. cigars (usually because they are wrapped 
 with imported Sumatra leaf) and cigarettes is peculiarly pleasing to for- 
 eigners. The cigars wrapped in tin foil keep humid for many months. They 
 make very acceptable presents to smokers. 
 
 The Cigarettes of El Buen Tono Factory are the most popular with 
 Americans and Mexicans alike. Many cigarettes are made in the city, 
 some in lean factories, others not. The Buen Tono Factory, in the Plaza 
 San Juan (PI. F, 4) employs upward of 1200 men end girls, turns out about 
 12 million cigarettes a day, and supplies the entire count rj r . The buildings 
 cover five city blocks, and include a beautiful chapel (for the employees), 
 colleges (free instruction), a medical department, a lithographing and 
 advertising plant, Post and telegraph offices, etc., etc. it is one of the sights 
 of the city. Tourists are welcome, and visitors are shown the intricate 
 machines that sort, make, pack, and do practically everything but smoke 
 the cigarettes. In one of the departments Turkish cigarettes are jnade 
 from imported Turkish tobacco. English is spoken. The business was 
 established in 1894 by Ernest Pugibet, a philanthropic Frenchman whom 
 the city has honored in various ways. 
 
 Photographic Supplies (comp. Photography, p. lxxix). American Photo 
 Supply Co., S. A. — Ave. Madero 40 (PI. G, 4). The largest photographic 
 supply dealers in the Republic. Agents for Kodaks and the best American 
 and European cameras, accessories, and supplies. Fresh plates, films, 
 cameras, etc. always in stock. Modern fully equipped dark room for devel- 
 opment work. Efficient Mail Order department. Tourist trade a specialty. 
 Travellers in any part of the Republic can be assured that their orders will 
 receive immediate attention. 
 
 Photographs (fotografias) . Hugo Brehme, Ave. 5 de Mayo 27 (PI. G, 4), 
 Room 36, P. O. Box 5253. The largest and most beautiful collection of 
 artistic photographs in Mexico. Dr. Fischer's famous water-color pictures. 
 Specialties : Mexican views, postcards, enlargements. Of particular interest 
 to travellers who wish special views, or photographs with which to illustrate 
 articles descriptive of the country or its people. English, German, Spanish 
 spoken. 
 
 Bookstores ( lihrerios ). American Book & Printing Co., Ave. Madero 
 25 (PI. G, 4). Largest stock of books in Mexico. American magazines and 
 newspapers. Books relating to Mexico — Mex. Laws and English transla- 
 tions. Guidebooks; grammars; dictionaries; publishers of the classified 
 Business Directory of the City and Republic. Printing, Lithographing. 
 Bookbinding and Engraving plants. Stationery and supplies. Society and 
 business stationery. — The Aztec Land, Ave. Madero 24. Books on Mexico; 
 fiction, etc. — Second-hand Bookstores abound in the city, usually small 
 stalls tucked away in the portales or plastered to the sides of buildings. 
 English is not always spoken in them, and Spanish books generally con- 
 stitute their stock in trade. 
 
Newspapers and Theatres . MEXICO CITY 1$. Rte. 244*7 
 
 American Drug Store (farmada, drogueria). Sanborn’s, Ave. Madero 4 
 (in the beautiful House of Tiles, referred to under Restaurants). Modern, 
 American. Many specialties. Registered chemists. 
 
 Men’s and Women’s Outfitters (clothing, hats, shoes, shirts, etc., etc.). 
 The Sonora News Co., Ave. Madero 17 (PI. G, 4). — El Palacio de Hierro, 
 Ave. 5 de Febrero and 4a Capuchinas (PI. I, 4). — W. F. Ford, Gante 1. 
 
 Hat Store (sombrereria) . Fine Panama Hats, American, Mexican and 
 other hats. Agents for John B. Stetson and other Amer. manufacturers. 
 Tardan, Plaza Constitucion 5 & 7 (PI. H, 4). 
 
 Household Supplies (China, glassware, crystalware, lamps, kitchenware, 
 cutlery, electrical fittings and complete outfits for housekeeping, art goods) , 
 Loeb Hermanos, Cor. Ave. Madero and 2d la Palma. 
 
 Newspapers (periodicos) . El Universal (Felix F. Palavicini, founder 
 and publisher), a newsy, ably written morning daily, with many Associated 
 Press ( prensa asociada) despatches, stands at the head of the vernacular 
 papers of the capital. Published by the Compafiia Periodistica Nacional 
 S. A., which also publishes El Universal Grdfico, the most popular evening 
 newspaper; El Universal Ilustrado (an excellent illustrated weekly), and 
 El Universal Taurino (the bull-fighters’ chronicle). All in Spanish. 
 
 The best Monthly Review of Industry, Commerce, and Comment, is the 
 widely known and internationally circulated Pulse of Mexico (J. C. Kemp 
 Van Ee, Jr., Editor; Stanley W. Sotcher, Manager), offices at Gante 14. 
 The well-written articles on finance, commerce, industry, politics, local 
 affairs, automobile trips, oil development, etc., etc., are of peculiar interest 
 to foreigners. — Le Courrier du Mexique, Ave. Republica de Guatemala 34, 
 is the organ of the numerous French colony. — The Gov’t organ is El 
 Diario Oficial de los Estados Unidos Mexicanos. More than a score of news- 
 papers are published in the capital. For their local addresses consult the 
 directory. — Certain of the vernacular papers print English sections. The 
 different Chambers Of Commerce issue Bulletins and other literature of 
 interest to foreigners. — A curious effect of the Great War was that it 
 made of the Mexicans a reading people. Now a number of excellent periodi- 
 cals cater to their desire for world news. — The Mexico Times, a weekly 
 newspaper (in English) represents American interests in the city. 
 
 f. Theatres and Places of Amusement. 
 
 Theatres (comp. p. xcvi). The Tedtro Nacional (PI. G, 4), a government 
 undertaking of considerable magnitude and described in detail at p. 326c 
 will, when completed, be the largest and finest theatre in the Republic. It 
 will be devoted exclusively to grand opera. This is at present shown at the 
 Tedtro Colon (4th Calle de Bolivar — PI. G, 4). — The Virginia Fabregas 
 (la Calle de Donceles, PI. G, 4), opera and drama. — Esperanza Iris (2a 
 Donceles 36, PI. G, 4). — Theatres of the ‘ genero chico' class, where vaude- 
 ville, zarzuelas and one-act tandas are given are the Tedtro Principal (3a 
 Bolivar, PI. G, 4). - — The Ideal (la Dolores 8, PI. G, 4). — The Lirico (3a 
 Medinas, PI. G, 4). 
 
 Moving Pictures ( cines , cinemas, cinematdgrafos ) are increasingly popular 
 with the public, and the stranger unfamiliar with the Spanish language usu- 
 ally gets more entertainment from them than from the local theatres. 
 Certain of the cinemas in the city are good; many are too poor and sensa- 
 tional to suit the American taste. The crowds in the small, stuffy, ill-venti- 
 lated places should be rigorously avoided. Unquestionably the best, highest 
 class and most popular with foreigners and the better class Mexicans is 
 the large, handsome, beautifully decorated 
 
 Teatro Olimpia, Ave. 16 de Septiembre 9, facing the American Club. It 
 is the most modern of all the moving picture houses in the Repub.; clean, 
 well ventilated and patterned after the best houses of this class in the 
 U. S. A. (American management, etc.). The pictures shown are of a high 
 order. The programme changes frequently. The large Robert Morton 
 orchestral organ is the finest of its kind south of the Rio Grande. The 
 Sunday (and other times) Concerts given here are to Mexico City what the 
 Symphony Orchestra is to Boston. Patronized almost exclusively by the 
 best society of the capital, the diplomatic corps, foreign tourists and others. 
 — Smaller Moving Picture houses under the same management are The 
 Salon Rojo, Cor. Ave. Madero and the Calle Bolivar (also presents the 
 
244 h Route 1+2. MEXICO CITY Churches and Festivals, 
 
 best American pictures), the Buen Tono, and others in the city and suburbs. 
 Popular prices. The celebrated CircuitO Olimpia, S. A., managing directors 
 of the tedtro olimpia, supply American films to many theatres throughout 
 the Republic. 
 
 Bull-Ring ( Plaza de Toros — PI. E, 6. — comp. p. xcvii), in the Colonial 
 Condesa, about 2 M. S.-W. of the Plaza Mayor (any Colonia Condesa tram- 
 car) . Tickets are sold at the entrance and in the various despachos (offices) 
 throughout the city. The best fights usually are on Sundays and dias de 
 fiesta; they are widely advertised, by hand-bills, wall-posters, in the news- 
 papers, etc. The building has a seating capacity of 20,000. Seats in the 
 shade ( sombra ) are considerably more expensive than those in the sun 
 (eZ sol ) — which have the disadvantage of being the favorites of the un- 
 washed proletariat. 
 
 Basque-Ball Game ( Juego de Pelota , comp. p. cxiii) in the Fronton Na- 
 tional, Calle de Iturbide No. 19 (PI. F, 4). See hand-bills and the newspapers 
 for advertisements of functions. 
 
 Horse-Races ( Carreras de caballos ), during the winter season at the Hip6- 
 dromo, in the Colonia Condesa (PI. C, 7). Any Condesa car goes near the 
 entrance. Not far from the Bull-ring. The betting system usually in vogue 
 is the Pari Mutual. Horses are brought from the U. S. A., and the races 
 often are exciting. The president of the Republic and his entourage fre- 
 quently attend the meets. From the fine grandstand one commands an 
 excellent new of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl. — The presidential box is 
 almost opposite the judges stand (the starting post) in the new grandstand. 
 
 Golf Links. The best are at the Country Club, described at p. 407. A 
 new and beautiful course is being laid out in the Chapultepec Heights Colony 
 (see the Plan of Chapultepec Park at p. 380). 
 
 Promenades and Driveways. The most fashionable promenade and corso 
 of the city is the beautiful Paseo de la Reforma (PI. E, 5. — p. 372) and its 
 prolongation through Chapultepec Park. Much frequented on Sundays 
 and dias de fiesta. At stated hours, usually about twilight, the finest turnouts 
 and the 61ite of the capital drive out the Paseo and return through its E. 
 prolongation, the Ave?iidas Juarez and F. I. Madero to the Plaza de la Con- 
 stitution , where the procession turns and retraces its route. The display of 
 fine cars, beautiful toilettes and more attractive people is alluring. The 
 handsome Alameda (PI. F, 4. — p. 327) is rendered doubly attractive on 
 Sunday mornings by delightful music (military band, free), by joyous 
 throngs, and a wealth of sunshine and flowers. 
 
 g. Churches. Church Festivals. 
 
 Churches. Unless the traveller is concerned with the historical asso- 
 ciations which cling to the fifty or more churches (comp. p. cxiv) in Mex- 
 ico City, but a few of them will repay the time spent in studying them. 
 Architecturally the minor churches differ but little from each other, and 
 unless one is interested in the Catholic religion and its many phases — as 
 portrayed by different native congregations and priestlj 7 display — or in the 
 details of construction which serve sometimes to differentiate churches 
 and chapels, one will do well to select the few really worth studying and 
 plan to devote but a passing glance to the others. The majority of tour- 
 ists visit churches usually to see the pictures and art-objects they may 
 contain. Albeit before the Reform Laws (p. coxix) some of the Mex. 
 churches were veritable museums and art-galleries combined, the sub- 
 sequent sequestration and nationalization of ecclesiastical property 
 swept many of them clean, so that the lover of old paintings will be best 
 repaid by a visit to the San Carlos Academy of Fine Arts (described at 
 p. 310), whither the majority of the church pictures went when the 
 churches and convents were exclaustrated. Certain of the metropolitan 
 churches — as well as some of those in the country cities and towns — 
 possess pictures well worth seeing, and these are referred to in their 
 proper places in the Handbook. 
 
 In architectural excellence, as well as in its possession of notable pic- 
 tures, the Cathedral (and the adjoining Sagrario Metropolitan o) stands at 
 the head of the churches of the capital, and it embodies, in a composite 
 form, all or nearly all the distinctive features of the remainder. The Sa- 
 grario possesses the most elaborate Churrigueresque exterior in the city. 
 
Churches and Festivals. MEXICO CITY 1$. Route. 244 i 
 
 and after it comes the ch. of La Santisima Trinidad (p. 365). The best 
 example ot the Baroque is the Dominican Church of Santo Domingo (p. 
 353), the one-time stronghold of the Inquisition. The sturdy Early Fran- 
 ciscan Style can best be studied in the massive proportions of the 
 Church of San Francisco (p. 321), while the adjacent ch. of San Felipe de 
 Jesus is perhaps the best exponent of a Romanesque exterior with a 
 modern adaptation of the Estilo Bizantino. The old Jesuit strongholds of 
 La Profesa. (p. 318) and of Nuestra Sehora de Loreto (p. 362) are always 
 interesting to the' traveller, if only for the reason that one side of each has 
 sunk so far below the pavement that they lean over at an angle almost as 
 acute as that of the Leaning Tower of Pisa. San Hipolito (p. 335) is so 
 intimately associated with the historical events of the Conquest that few 
 travellers omit to visit it, if only to place themselves in mental touch with 
 the stirring episodes of that transcendental event. The literatist usually 
 considers a pilgrimage to Mexico City incomplete until he has threaded 
 the offensive streets that lead to the equally repulsive little Church of 
 San Geronimo (p. 368), with its conventual cell where the sad but talented 
 Sor Juana Ines de la Cruz (the “Mexican Muse”) passed her last days in 
 1695. The traveller who fails to drink in the absorbing beauty of the old 
 facade of the San Agustin Church (now the National Library, described 
 at p. 344) misses one of the most exquisite things, in ecclesiastical archi- 
 tecture, in the Republic. 
 
 The few small churches that have been left out of the Handbook are 
 of no interest or merit. 
 
 The Church Festivals of Mexico City are among the most important 
 in the Republic, and they still attract crowds of strangers, though they 
 have lost much of their former brilliancy. Of equal importance, and 
 usually of much greater interest, are the national celebrations on 
 May 5 and Sept. 15 and 16. Both are marked by the firing of many 
 salutes, the raising of the national emblem over the government buildings 
 and private residences, by the ringing of church-bells, and by splendidly 
 spectacular military parades — which the visiting stranger should try 
 not to miss. Programs are usually printed several days in advance in the 
 newspapers. On these holidays the street-car routes are changed to suit 
 the convenience of the paraders, and a general business holiday is ob- 
 served. The review of the fine corps of Rurales (p. lxv) is particularly 
 worth seeing. For a detailed list of certain of the most observed festivals 
 see p. cxix. Also p. 238. 
 
 Protestant Churches ( iglesias protestantes) . Christ Church, Calle Nuevo 
 Mexico 134 • — Methodist Episcopal Church South, Balderas 4J- — Presby- 
 terian Church, Cor. Mina and Heroes. — Trinity Methodist Episcopal 
 Ch., Gante 5. — Union Ch., Humboldt 50. — First Ch. of Christ, Scientist, 
 5 de Mayo 6. — As the address of the latter may change, the traveller is 
 advised to consult the local directory. 
 
 Chief Attractions. Plaza Mayor (p. 261) ; Cathedral (p. 272) ; 
 Academia de Bellas Artes (p. 310); Museo Nacional (p. 298); Palacio 
 Nacional (p. 267); Alameda (p. 327); Paseo de la Reforma (p. 372); Cas- 
 tillo y Parque de Chapultepec (p. 379); Biblioteca Nacional (p. 344); 
 Colegio de San Yldefonso (p. 360); Arbol de la Noche Triste (p. 418); 
 Iglesia y Pocito de Guadalupe (p. 392); Iglesia de San Francisco (p. 321); 
 view from the Cathedral Tower and from the Colegio Militar at Chapul- 
 tepec; the old School of Mines (p. 330) ; the leaning Church of La Profesa 
 (p. 318); La Viga (p. 350); The Pedregal (p. 411); El Panteon de San 
 Fernando (p. 337); Instituto Geoldgico Nacional (p. 341); the Archives 
 and the portraits of the Spanish Viceroys , in the Palacio Municipal (p. 
 292); the Art Rooms (free) of the Sonora News Company (p. 320). 
 
 h. List of Chief Collections and Other Sights. 
 
 Academia Nacional de San Carlos (National Picture Gallery), p. 310, 
 free every day (closed Saturday) from 10 to 1. This gallery and the 
 Museo are apt to be packed with the lower-class natives on Sundays and 
 dias de fiesta. 
 
 Chapultepec Castle (p. 386). Permits (granted only between Oct. and 
 April, when the President occupies his city residence) from one’s Consul 
 or from the Intendente del Palacio , at the Palacio Nacional. The traveller 
 
244; Route 42. MEXICO CITY Chief Attractions . 
 
 should not fail to make his application well in advance, as there is usually 
 a waiting-list. 
 
 Escuela National de Ingenieros (Colegio de Mineria, or School of Mines, 
 p. 330), free daily, 10 to 5. Rich collection of minerals and paleontological 
 specimens. 
 
 Instituto Geologico National (p. 341), free daily, 10 to 5. Geological 
 and other specimens. 
 
 Museo National de Artilleria (p. 369), free daily except Sunday, 10 to 5. 
 War trophies. Not specially interesting to the tourist. 
 
 Museo National (p. 29S), highly interesting, daily (free) except Satur- 
 day (closed) from 10 to 1. (The hours of admission are subject to change.) 
 
 Museo Comercial (p. 328), free daily, 9 to 1. A collection of the products 
 of the country, with free catalogue. 
 
 Palacio Municipal (p. 292), with some interesting records of Spanish- 
 Colonial times, daily (free), 10 to 5. 
 
 Palacio National (p. 267). Card of admission (free) from the Intendente 
 (at the Intendencia ) del Palacio , in the palace. The courts (or patios ) 
 are always open. 
 
 Pantedn de San Fernando (p. 337), daily, 9 to 5. 
 
 The tourist may like to remember that any Spanish building that bears 
 the Hapsburg Arms must of course belong either to the 16th or 17th cent. 
 These arms are in the form of an escutcheon surrounded by the wings of a 
 double-headed eagle regardant: at the sinister chief point is a tower, and 
 below, at the sinister base point, a lion rampant. At the dexter chief point 
 is a lion and at the dexter base point is a tower. The death of Charles II in 
 1700, and the accession of Felipe V, ended the Hapsburg line and inaugu- 
 rated the Bourbon dynasty in Spain. The armorial symbol of the Bourbons , 
 as usually seen in Mexico, is the central shield of the somewhat elaborate 
 coat-of-arms, with the lions and castles in positions opposite to the above, 
 with a Fleur-de-lis at thefesse, or heart point. 
 
 For additional information under this head consult: Memoria del Ayunta- 
 mientode 1897, by Lie. D. Juan Bribiesca, p. 47; and various books in the 
 Archives of the Palacio Municipal at Mexico City. 
 
 1. Disposition of Time. 
 
 How to spend 10 days in Mexico City to the best advantage. 
 
 1st day. Monday. Breakfast at Sanborn’s (The House of Tiles — p, 326). 
 Walk up the Avenida Madero to the Church of La Profesa (p. 318) with 
 its Leaning Tower, thence to the Plaza de la Constitucidn (p. 265). Inspect 
 the Portales and their many quaint shops and puestos (stalls). The Cathe- 
 dral (p. 272), and the Sagrario Metropolitano (p. 290). View from the 
 Cathedral Tower. Inspect the .Aztec Ruins one square N. of the N.-W. 
 corner of the Palacio Nacional, at the corner of the Calles Seminario and 
 Santa Teresa. Flower Market (p. 293). Stroll down the Ave. Cinco de 
 Mayo to the Alatmda (p. 327). Luncheon at the Hotel Princess (p. 235). 
 Return to the National Post-Office (p. 328), the new. National TheaLie 
 (p. 326c), and the old College of Mines (p. 330), with its fine meteorites. 
 Inspect the handsome new building (just across the street) of the Secretaria 
 de Comunicaciones y Obras Publicas. Dinner at Sanborn's (Grill, in the 
 balcony). Moving Pictures at the Tedtro Olimpia (p. 244#) in the evening. 
 
 2d day. Tuesday. One full day at least should be given to the Monte de 
 Picdad (National Pawn Shop, p. 295), the National Museum (p. 298), and 
 the National Picture Gallery (Acad6mia Nacional de San Carlos, p. 310). 
 If time permits, in the afternoon visit the Commercial Museum (p. 328), 
 see The Bronze Equestrian Statue of Charles IV (p. 273), and stroll down 
 the Paseo de la Reforma (p. 372), past the Statue to Christopher Columbus 
 (p. 374), to the handsome Bronze Statue of Quauhtemotzin, at p. 376. Dinner 
 at the Hotel Imperial, hard by. 
 
 3d day. Wednesday. Church and Plaza of Santo Domingo (p. 353), one 
 of the oldest and quaintest spots in the city, with its (nearby) National 
 School of Medicine, where the Inquisition long had its alleged Holy Office. 
 The Portales (here) with its public letter-writers. _ Exterior of the Palacio 
 del Conde de Santiago de Calimaya (p. 347). The A ational Library (p. 344). 
 Luncheon at the Hotel Geneve. Inspect the Bull-Ring (p. xcvii), Hippodrome 
 (Races in season) and the American Colony in the afternoon. Dinner at 
 the Hotel Regis (p. 235). 
 
Disposition of Time. MEXICO CITY 
 
 42 . Route. 244 k 
 
 4t.ll day. Thursday. Visit the Art Rooms of the Sonora News Co. (Hotel 
 Iturbide, p. 244c) and the Art Rooms of the Aztec Land (p. 244e). Fine col- 
 lection of Mexican views at the Art Rooms of Hugo Brehme, Ave. 5 de Mayo 
 27 (p. 244/). Luncheon at Sanborn's. Palacio Nacional (p. 267), and the 
 Palacio Municipal (p. 292). Mexican dinner at the Guardiola Hotel (p. 235). 
 
 5th day. Friday, a. m. Church and Shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe 
 (p. 392). p. m. Coyoacdn (p. 408), Palace of Cortes (p. 409), Church of 
 San Juan Bautista (p. 411), The Pedregal (p. 411). On the return inspect 
 the Country Club (tea, etc.) at Churubusco, described at p. 407. Theatre 
 or Moving Pictures in the evening. 
 
 6th day. Saturday. Tram-cars to Xochimilco and the Floating Gardens 
 (p. 350). Luncheon at the native Inn opposite the Pumping Station ( Xochi- 
 milco ). If time permits on the return, inspect the Cigarette Factory of El 
 Buen Tono, at the Plaza de San Juan (p. 370). Dinner at the Hotel An - 
 sonia. 
 
 7th day. Sunday. Early mass at the Church of San Felipe de Jesus (p. 
 325). See the adjacent Church of San Francisco (p. 321). Breakfast at 
 Sanborn's (special breakfasting place Sunday of the wealth and beauty of 
 the capital). Inspect the Thieves Market (p. 296). Proceed from the 
 Plaza Mayor , by tram-car, to Chapultepec, reaching there not later than 
 11 or 11.30 a. m. Music. Fine parade through the park. Luncheon at the 
 Cafe Chapultepec. Stroll through the forest in the afternoon. Late after- 
 noon and twilight parade on the Paseo de la Reforma , the Avenida Judrez, 
 and Ave. Madero. — Protestant Churches mentioned at p. 244 i. 
 
 8th day. Monday. Motor through the Puente de Alvarado (p. 339), to 
 Popotla and see the Tree of the Dismal Night (p. 418). Thence to Chapul- 
 tepec, visiting the Castle (p. 386) and Forest. Thence through the Chapul- 
 tepec Heights Colony (fine views, etc.) to Tacubaya (p. 417), Mixcoac (p. 
 416), and San Angel (p. 412). Lunch and Tea at the beautiful San Angel 
 Inn. New archaeological discoveries in the Pedregal (p. 412). Pelota Game 
 (p. 244ft) in the evening. 
 
 9tli day. Tuesday. By train (Mexican Rly.) or motor to the Pyramids 
 of San Judn Teotihuacdn (p. 425), returning (motor only) via the old Church 
 of Acolman (p. 428). 
 
 10th day. Wednesday. Tram-cars or motor to El Desierto (p. 417). 
 
 This time can be extended to include the delightful excursion to Cuer- 
 navaca (p. 436) and the Cacahuamilpa Caverns, to Atzcapotzalco (p. 419), 
 to San Bdrtolo Naucdlpam (p. 191), and to various other points of interest 
 in and near the Valley of Mexico. 
 
 Sight-Seeing Automobiles leave certain of the hotels at stated intervals 
 for the chief points of interest in and near the capital. The excursion to 
 Cacahuamilpa can be made easier, cheaper, and with less fatigue, from 
 Cuernavaca (Hotel Morelos) as a base. 
 
 A superficial idea of Mexico City can be gained in three or four days, 
 but fully that time ought tp be devoted to the Museo, the National Pic- 
 ture Gallery, the Cathedral, the Church and Shrine of Nuestra Senora de 
 Guadalupe, and Chapultepec. Certain of the minor churches are of his- 
 torical interest; likewise the suburban towns of Tacubaya, San Angel, 
 Tlalpan, Coyoacan, Tacuba, Azcapotzalco, and so on. Many foreign 
 visitors will wish to inspect the gigantic Bull-Ring (p. xcvii) even if they 
 do not witness the unadulterated spectacle of a Spanish bull-fight. Lovers 
 of baseball will be interested in seeing a pelota exhibition (described at 
 p. cxiii). 
 
 Many delightful and unforgettable hours can be spent sauntering about 
 the old Aztec metropolis, inspecting the most interesting of the city churches, 
 the old buildings which date from the years of the Conquest, _ and the myriad 
 minor attractions. Most travellers will wish to return again and again to 
 the Cathedral, the Sagrario Metropolitano, the National Museum, the San 
 Carlos Picture Gallery, the beautiful Forest of Chapultepec, Xochimilco , 
 Guadalupe and others of the important landmarks. 
 
 In the Biblioteca Nacional, and in the dusty archives of the library in 
 the Palacio Municipal, one can see books and documents which relate to 
 life in the city a hundred years before the Pilgrims sighted Plymouth, and 
 while the conquered and embittered Aztecs scowled at the mailed con - 
 quistadores who stalked the streets of their ancient stronghold. In the 
 archives of the Palacio Municipal one can thrill at the sight of the signatures 
 
244/ Route MEXICO CITY General Hints. 
 
 of these same Spanish cavaliers, of the lion-hearted Cortes, Alvarado , San- 
 doval, and others of the mailed host who escaped the terrors of the Dismal 
 Night. _ 
 
 No single city on the American continent holds so much of romantic 
 interest as does this old Vice-regal seat of Spain in the New World; and in 
 none are so many of the older buildings and relics preserved. And it is 
 greatly to the credit of the Mexicans that they have preserved them to 
 gratify their own sense of the picturesque and their love of the beautiful. 
 In doing so they have catered to no foreign taste; they have followed their 
 own natural inclinations. 
 
 J. General Hints. 
 
 Mexican Officials of all classes welcome strangers to their country, and 
 usually will go to almost any amount of trouble to be of service to them. 
 Only those of the lowest rank expect or accept fees. Any traveller who shows 
 a sympathetic interest in Mexico and its people is assured in advance of a 
 cordial welcome. Officials from the President down will often stop in the 
 midst of important work to write letters of introduction to other officials, 
 in order to help some sight-seeing or investigating tourist, and archives, 
 libraries, museums, public buildings and whatnot are always open to the 
 interested. There are very few restrictions in Mexico, for it is doubtful if 
 any other person has more real personal liberty than the average Mexican. 
 
 While certain of the Mexican customs may strike the stranger as odd, he 
 will do well to bear in mind that they are the result of long experience in 
 a somewhat peculiar environment, and usually they have a very excellent 
 reason for their being. 
 
 In Mexico City the air acts as a tonic and one feels much better than at 
 sea level, but it is wise to avoid over-exertion of any kind. The heart is 
 supposed to do double work at this high altitude, and undue rushing about 
 is not good for one. 
 
 It is a good plan to keep gold and silver coins in separate purses, as some 
 of them are of a size and are easily given out by mistake. — Ostentatious 
 display, on the person, of jewelry of any kind sometimes proves too great 
 a temptation for certain nimble-fingered subjects of the lower class, and 
 the stranger who wears diamond-encrusted watch-fobs, alluring stick-pins, 
 or flamboyant watch-chains is very apt to lose them. Do not leave valuable 
 articles scattered about in the hotel room. The Spanish proverb, La opor - 
 tunidad hace al ladrdn (opportunity makes the thief) holds as good in Mexico 
 as elsewhere. A mozo who gets 15 pesos a week often regards it as good 
 business to decamp with a hundred dollar suit of clothes even if he loses 
 his job thereby. So clothing etc. should be kept under lock and key. 
 
 The person who buys alleged diamonds of street vendors is certain to be 
 cheated. Fairly well-dressed men often waylay strangers in the Alameda, 
 where the brilliant sunshine, filtering through the trees, imparts a very 
 lively sparkle to a well-cut crystal. If the vendor’s price for a big diamond 
 be $150, offer him $1.35 — and you will get it. To eat candies, cakes and 
 other pseudo goodies sold on the streets is to invite typhoid and six weeks 
 in the hospital. 
 
 The Drinking Water comes from deep springs at Xochimilco and is 
 supposed to be pure; but much of it not unfrequently acquires impurities 
 from the open tanks on the house roofs, where it is stored. The safest plan 
 is to boil the water before drinking it — unless it comes from a deep artesian 
 well, of which there are a number in the capital. The best hotels and restau- 
 rants take special care with the water they serve to patrons. The Mexicans 
 drink a good deal of beer, but impurities are apt to lurk in this as well as the 
 water, unless one knows the brands that are made in districts where the 
 water is pure. Orizaba has this reputation. Drinks made locally, particu- 
 larly cheap bottled stuff, should be avoided. 
 
 It is said that food values decrease by about one third at the Mexico City 
 altitude. This would imply that one should eat more than at sea level. The 
 Mexicans as a rule eat lightly but often. 
 
 There are very few mosquitos in Mexico City, and fewer flies than one 
 naturally would expect to find. 
 
 k. Gesticulation ( gesticulacwn ). 
 
 Gestures ( gestos ) are much employed by Spanish peoples to express 
 thoughts and feelings or to illustrate or emphasize what is said. By them this 
 
Gesticulation, 
 
 MEXICO CITY 42 . Route. 244 m 
 
 nimble art has been refined to such a degree that with certain individuals 
 a look, a tone, or a gesture is often more eloquent than elaborate speech. 
 The flashing dark eye and the extraordinarily mobile features of the Mexican 
 lend themselves with peculiar facility to this silent expression so popular 
 with the race. Women in particular employ gestures as a sort of pantomimic 
 addition to a surprisingly extensive and expressive vocabulary. Gesticula- 
 tion usually adds vehemence and charm to Mexican discourse. So expres- 
 sive are the shrugs ( encogimientos de hombros), grimaces ( muecas ), and 
 finger-movements ( movimientos digitales ) of certain Spanish-speaking peo- 
 ples that even the alien does not mistake their meaning. 
 
 While certain gestures are individual, others are national in form and 
 meaning. The language of the fan ( el abanico ) and of love (de amor ) are ex- 
 tensive, and fascinating in their subtlety. These can best be acquired by 
 observation and practice. 
 
 The language of love varies according to the exigencies of the occasion, 
 since a suitor (amante) ‘playing the bear’ ( haciendo el oso) beneath or near 
 the balcony ( balcon ) of his sweetheart ( dulcinea ), or a gallant ( majo ) carry- 
 ing on a flirtation (pelando la pava ) at the barred window ( reja ) with some 
 attractive senorita, finds it necessary to adapt sign-language to distance 
 and the amount of discretion requisite to the situation. There is also a 
 language of flowers, and of the handkerchief, used by sweethearts. 
 
 Some of the most common signs used in Mexico (and in Spanish-America 
 and parts of Spain) are: 
 
 A single hand-clap (sometimes accompanied by ‘psic’) calls a waiter, a 
 street porter, a huckster, etc., or arrests the attention of a friend. Applause 
 is also expressed by clapping the hands. Disapproval is expressed by a hiss. 
 
 The thumb and little finger upraised while the fingers between swiftly 
 wiggle inward toward the out-turned palm, is the common form of waving 
 a salute to a passing acquaintance or friend. 
 
 When a polite Mexican receives a thing from any one, or hands one a 
 thing, he accompanies the act with a friendly little flourish or motion of 
 the hand difficult to describe but winning in the act. As it is by these and 
 other actions that the cultured native silently plumbs the sentiments and 
 breeding of those he meets, the sympathetic stranger is advised to study 
 these national traits and acquire the habit of employing them. 
 
 Clapping the hand against the hip means, “I give it up,” ‘‘It can’t be 
 helped.” 
 
 The hand raised with the palm toward the face means, “Good-bye!” 
 “Farewell!” 
 
 The hand held upright, palm out, means, “Stop!” 
 
 The wide-open and trembling hand, held transversely to the body, means 
 “disgust, indignation, or a plea for fairness.” 
 
 The extended hands spread outward and downward mean “What’s the 
 use?” 
 
 Rubbing the thumb on the upturned forefinger, as if testing the fineness 
 of some powder, indicates that “money had something to do with it.” 
 
 Pressing down the little finger with the thumb of the other hand means, 
 “Here’s the thing in a nutshell”; or, “Believe me when I tell you.” 
 
 Placing the right hand slightly above the left, breast high, then opening 
 the arms wide, like a stroke in swimming, indicates that the party “washes 
 his hands of the whole affair,” and “will have absolutely nothing more to 
 do with it.” 
 
 The forefinger placed beside or curled over the nose means, “Mum’s the 
 word,” “ I warn you” ; or it may be employed to hide the truth or the subtle 
 point of the thing said. 
 
 The thumb and forefinger touching at the tips so as to form an oval, with 
 the three fingers flaring upward, signify the “tiniest bit of anything.” 
 
 Stiffening the arm and jerking a thumb toward a shoulder implies strength 
 for any occasion, and is equal to the American slapping of the chest. 
 
 The right hand sliding downward on the palm of the left signifies that 
 “he gambles.” 
 
 The right arm upraised with the thumb and forefinger held out straight 
 as if clasping a cube about an inch thick, the remaining fingers doubled 
 close to the palm, form the sign customarily employed when one wishes 
 another to halt a moment, ora motorman to slow down his car sufficiently 
 to enable one to board it. It also means “ a bit of anything,” or “ three fin- 
 gers of a drink.” 
 
244m Route /$. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 The raised hand shaken to and fro, with the palm outward, signals a pass- 
 ing acquaintance and indicates that he is not expected to stop. 
 
 The hand shaken downward loosely and with vigor, just once, with an 
 air of vexation, indicates that the gesticulator has “forgotten something.” 
 Drawing the index-finger across the throat, accompanied by an appro- 
 priate grimace, carries the same minatory meaning expressed by English- 
 speaking people. 
 
 A movement of the open hand, with the palm outward and a gradual clos- 
 ing of the fingers, indicates that a person “is grasping,” or that “he will 
 appropriate what does not belong to him.” 
 
 Stroking the left forefinger outward with the right forefinger, with a sort 
 of whittling motion toward the tip, repeated two or three times means, 
 44 Shame on you,” or, “You have no shame!” 
 
 Shaking the hand wig-wag fashion, while held upright, means, “So, so.” 
 The closed fist struck against the chest typifies “extravagant admiration 
 of a woman.” 
 
 Clinching the hand over the face or breast — a feminine action — in- 
 dicates “shyness, caution, modesty, reserve, or fear.” 
 
 The upright hand waving outward and downward means, “Nothing 
 doing.” 
 
 The hand up with thumb-side in, the index-finger crooked, the others 
 closed, mean that “he has grown thin.” # 
 
 Clasping the hands before one, as if in an agony of doubt, expresses, 
 “My God!” 
 
 All the fingers pinched up and jerked toward the mouth or throat mean 
 “an invitation to dine,” or indicate that the person making the motion is 
 “going to eat something.” 
 
 The little finger stiffened straight up like a horn, the three fingers clasped 
 against the palm, and the thumb jerked toward the open mouth, convey 
 “an invitation,” or express an “intention to drink something.” 
 
 “The hand wide open and the little finger and thumb wide apart bear a 
 rough resemblance to the cantara, or drinking pitcher. Held in this manner, 
 and tipped toward the mouth, the hand suggests a drink, or that plenty of 
 wine is about. When this sign is made, the Spaniard closes one eye, and 
 distorts his face exactly as he would on taking a drink without putting his 
 lips to the mouthpiece of the pitcher.” 
 
 The closed fist before the mouth, the thumb extended and canted to 
 touch the lips, indicates that a person “drinks too much.” 
 
 Knocking the left elbow with the right fist expresses that a person “is 
 stingy.” 
 
 “Doubtfulness” is expressed by a shrug of the shoulders accompanied 
 by a questioning pucker of the lips. 
 
 “Indifference” is usually expressed by a shrug of the shoulders, and the 
 idea conveyed that the person is “not interested in the matter.” 
 
 Straightening up the body and moving the head on the shoulders until 
 one is reminded of the letter “S,” and at the same time lifting up the eye- 
 lids means, “This is the finish!” “God help us!” etc. 
 
 Spanish peoples nod the head affirmatively, and shake it in negation, 
 just as Anglo-Saxons do, but the forefinger wagged to and fro in front of 
 the face means “refusal,” or a “decided no.” 
 
 When a Spaniard hears a noise he often asks about it without speaking, 
 by wrinkling his nose in a questioning way — as a rabbit is apt to do. 
 
 One person will silently question another about a matter with which 
 both are acquainted, by extending the hands, palms upward, and moving 
 them apart with a spreading motion from the elbows. 
 
 The thumb placed on the tip of the nose, and the fingers wiggled before the 
 face, express “unrealized expectations.” 
 
 “Beckoning a person to approach” is usually accomplished by a forward 
 wave of the hand and arm upward and outward, then bringing the hand 
 downward and inward, almost closing the fingers — perhaps repeating the 
 gesture two or three times. 
 
 Ducking the fingers and arm outward often means, “Stop!” or, “Come 
 here!” while the open hand pushed outward means, “Be off!” “Go away!” 
 “Get. out! ” 
 
 When the Mexican or Spaniard meets an old friend, he puts an arm half 
 around him and pats him affectionately on the back. Both men and women 
 half embrace friends at parting. 
 
THE FEDERAL DISTRICT 1,2. Route . 245 
 
 On entering a restaurant or any public room where persons congregate? 
 the polite Spanish-speaking person bows, ostensibly to the person nearest 
 the entrance. The salute is intended for all present, and no further intro- 
 duction is necessary for the time being. 
 
 The ceremonious hand-shake is the same in Spanish-’ as in English- 
 speaking countries, but friends in the former often clasp the thumb. (From 
 Terry’s Short Cut to Spanish.) 
 
 The Federal District (. Distrito Federal ), seat of the su- 
 preme federal power, the administrative and commercial 
 centre of the Republic, with a population of about 720,000 
 and an area of some 1,200 sqr. kilom., occupies the S.-W. part 
 of the valley and is bounded on the N.-E. and W. by the State 
 of Mexico, and on the S. by the State of Morelos. For political 
 purposes it is divided into six prefectures and one municipal- 
 ity, as follows : prefectures of Guadalupe- Hidalgo, Azcapotzalco , 
 Tacubaya, Tlalpan, Xochimilco and Coyoacan, whose chief 
 towns bear the name of the respective prefectures; and the 
 municipalidad of Mexico, capital of the Republic, described 
 at p. 251. The distrito and the capital bear the same relation 
 to the Mexican Republic that Washington and the District 
 of Columbia do to the U. S. A. 
 
 By a royal cedule of Dec. 17, 1523, Charles V granted to 
 Mexico City the title of Muy Leal, Insigne e Imperial (very 
 loyal, notable and imperial), providing therewith, for the use of 
 the Ayuntamiento , a light blue shield (the color of water, and 
 symbolic of the lake in which the city stood) emblazoned with 
 a gilded castle at the junction of three bridges (emblematic 
 of the three great causeways which connected the Aztec 
 metropolis with the mainland), on two of which were gilded 
 lions rampant: the whole was surmounted by the imperial 
 crown and surrounded by a gilded border displaying 10 spiny 
 pads (green) of the nopal cactus. 
 
 In 1821 Independent Mexico discarded the Spanish escudos 
 and ordered them removed from public buildings. For two 
 years the traditional eagle devouring a serpent was used as 
 the national emblem. With the fall of the Empire of Iturbide, 
 a law (April 14, 1823) decreed that on the national escutcheon 
 there should figure: an eagle standing on its left foot upright 
 on a nopal springing from a rock on the bosom of a lake, and 
 clasping in its right talons a serpent which it was in the act 
 of destroying with its beak; and below a branch of oak and 
 one of laurel. This is still in use. 
 
 In 1854 the Ayuntamiento of the city adopted the present 
 coat-of-arms : an azure shield displaying the eagle, the serpent 
 and the nopal surmounting a three-arched bridge whose pillars 
 stand in the waters of a lake; below is the wreath of oak 
 and laurel. 
 
 For many years certain of these familiar symbols embel- 
 lished the old Mexican peso — which, because of its intrinsic 
 worth, became the favorite circulating medium among mil- 
 lions of Chinese merchants along the maritime provinces of 
 
246 Route I#. VALLEY OF MEXICO 
 
 Cathay. Between the time it was issued in 1868, and the 
 downfall of the Diaz government in 1910, uncounted thou- 
 sands of these pure silver dollars found their way across the 
 Pacific Ocean. It was the only metallic currency in which 
 the astute Chinese had implicit confidence. The design was 
 changed in 1910, and again in 1921. The present peso bears 
 the eagle, the snake and the cactus, on one side, and the 
 Phrygian cap and a sunburst on the reverse. 
 
 The Valley of Mexico (El Valle de Mejico ), between N. lat- 
 itude 19° 10' and 20° 7' 30", and between longitude 98° 36' and 
 99° 21' W. of Greenwich, is, from a historical view-point, one 
 of the most interesting spots in the Republic. A vast oval ba- 
 sin about 50 M. long by 40 M. broad, it is thought to be the 
 one-time floor of an extinct volcano whose walls were the sur- 
 rounding mountains. Its greatest length is 71 M.; its greatest 
 width 45 M. Its area is about 1,758 square miles, with an ele- 
 vation between 7,439 and 8,036 above the level of the sea. 
 
 The chief constituents of the gigantic volcanic frame which 
 now serves as a natural bulwark to the valley, are hyper- 
 sthenic porphyry, amphibole trachyte lava, and a porous 
 amygdaloid, 1 or trap-rock, composed of silica and volcanic 
 ashes and known locally as tezontle. 
 
 This peculiar trap-rock is found in almost every part of the Republic, 
 scattered over the surface of the ground. When the small cavities which 
 pit its surface are filled with mortar it makes a binding material of great 
 strength, and it is used extensively for building purposes. Houses con- 
 structed of it possess splendid earthquake-resisting qualities, inasmuch 
 as a massive wall of it carries almost the strength of a solid piece. Many 
 of the old Spanish houses built by the Conquistadores four centuries ago, 
 which still stand in almost perfect state, were made of this substance, and 
 of tepetate. In certain regions contiguous to the Valley of Mexico geodes 
 of different minerals are found embedded in the surface of the tezontle. 
 
 When the huge wall was thrown up around the valley in 
 prehistoric times, it is supposed to have enclosed it com- 
 pletely, and by its latent heat to have changed the climate. 
 Coincidently came the diluvium and aided in the alluvial, 
 or quaternary, formation of the valley bed, the principal fea- 
 tures of which are lacustrine layers of sediment in the form 
 of a white, marlaceous substance known as tepetate: when 
 exposed to atmospheric action this substance becomes almost 
 as hard as cement. It is used extensively in and about the 
 valley as a building material. In the construction of the valley 
 bed, layers of marl alternate with volcanic detritus of a por- 
 phyritic nature containing trachyte, pumice-stone and rock 
 of a schistose character, carried hither by mountain torrents 
 or thrown into the valley during volcanic disturbances. Be- 
 
 1 “The geological term amygdaloid refers to igneous rocks containing 
 numerous almond-shaped or spherical substances of distinctly different 
 chemical and physical composition from that of the parent rocks. These 
 numerous enclosures were originally cavities due to the injection of steam 
 or gases. Lava frequently shows a structure of this character; its enclos- 
 ures are commonly calcite or quartz.” 
 
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VALLEY OF MEXICO Jft. Route . 247 
 
 tween the beds of marl lie strata of mud and humus, and in 
 some parts, sand and alkali. Deep down between some of 
 these layers, hemmed in by unthinkable pressures, are lakes 
 of fine artesian water, tapped by wells which supply many of 
 the residents of the capital with pure and delicious potable 
 water. In some parts of the valley these wells spout many feet 
 into the air. 
 
 Centuries are thought to have elapsed before the roaring 
 giants overlooking the valley ceased their stupendous work. 
 Water accumulated in the basin, which was soon converted 
 into a lake, dotted with islands, indented by peninsulas and 
 surrounded by a barrier of gigantic, smoking volcanoes. 
 The rich humus of the surface, and the excessive humidity 
 caused by evaporation under the stimulus of fierce, internal 
 fires, combined to render the spot extraordinarily fertile, 
 and along the shore of the lake arose a great tropical forest, of 
 which the immense ahuehuetes of Chapultepec Park (p. 379) 
 are perhaps the sole surviving remnants. The prolific vege- 
 tation invaded the waters of the lakes and produced the beau- 
 tiful Chinampas (p. 350) or floating gardens of the Aztecs. 
 Owing to the lowering of the adjacent lakes subsequent to the 
 draining of the valley, many of these floating islands have now 
 joined the continent. In a few years they will perhaps all have 
 disappeared. 
 
 Prior to the Conquest the lakes were extensive, and they 
 formed a great waterway between the important Indian cities 
 of the valley. Azcapotzalco, Coyoacan, Chapultepec, Guada- 
 lupe, and the Pehon 1 once stood on the border of Lake Tezcuco, 
 and the royal Aztec barges sailed uninterruptedly from the 
 gates of the summer palace of Chapultepec to the landing at 
 Ixtapalapa. A multiplicity of canals intersected the ancient 
 Aztec metropolis of Tenochtitlan and connected with the 
 lake in the suburbs. It was a New World Venice and Bankok 
 combined that the Spaniards discovered when they marched 
 up from the coast in 1519. 
 
 The Aztec Emperor Ahuizotl caused all the streams to the 
 south of the valley to be turned into the central lake, in order 
 to raise the surface of the water. As a result Tenochtitlan 
 was flooded for two years, and the first project for draining 
 the valley was then discussed. 
 
 The basin of the valley is formed by the immense Sierra 
 Nevada or Anahuac range and its offshoots, which at the 
 beginning of the central plateau project into the interior from 
 the E. coast range, the Sierra Madre Oriental. The N.-W. 
 boundary is marked by the old Indian village of Huehuetoca 
 and a small group of hills, the Cerro de Sincoque and the C. 
 
 1 According to Baron Von Humboldt, the City of Mexico will one 
 day be destroyed by this little volcan, now quiescent. 
 
248 Route 42 . VALLEY OF MEXICO 
 
 de Jalpan , between which lies the celebrated Canal or Tajo 
 de Nochistongo, described at p. 135. Near by are the hills 
 of Espana, Las Cuevas , Jiloncingo and Aranda , and the 
 Sierra de Tezontlalpam and the higher, argentiferous Pachuca 
 range. Beyond these hills lie the valleys and plains of Tula , 
 Atotonilco el Grande, Tulandngo and Ziriguilucan. 
 
 Behind gigantic Popocatepetl (p. 463) and Iztacdhuatl 
 (p. 464), which bound the valley on the S.-E., extend the 
 valley and city of Puebla (p. 508). On the south rises the 
 picturesque Sierra de Ajasco, behind which is the beautiful 
 town of Cuernavaca (p. 436). The Sierra de las Cruces and 
 its offshoots, the S. de Monte Alto and Monte Bajo, bound it 
 on the W. and beyond lies the Valley of Toluca (p. 199). 
 
 The natural outlet of the valley is between the N. group 
 of hills along the bed of the Tequixquiac River, where recent 
 excavations strengthen the belief that the region was inhab- 
 ited by man in very remote times. In 1870 a fossil modelled 
 by human hands into the form of a coyote was found in a 
 stratum belonging to an epoch dating back thousands of 
 years. Other finds prove that the fauna once included Amer- 
 ican elephants ( Elephas primigenius) , mastodons ( Mastodon 
 antidiluvianus) , buffaloes ( Bos latifrons), llamas ( Eschatius 
 conidens), giant armadillos ( Glyptodon cf. claripes) and many 
 animals now extinct. 
 
 The waters of the valley form two distinct watersheds, one 
 sloping in an easterly direction and the other toward the west, 
 with a number of small streams. The waters of these two sheds 
 collect and form five lakes : Zumpango, at the foot of the Sierra 
 de Tepozotlan and the Sierra de Jalpan on the N., along with 
 Xaltocan and San Cristobal; Chaleo and Xochimilco on the 
 S. and Lake Texcoco 1 on the W. The celebrated Nochis- 
 tongo Canal was begun on the W. shore of Zumpango and 
 the equally celebrated Tequixquiac Tunnel (comp. p. 251) 
 is now a feature of it. Texcoco is the largest of the lakes 
 (about 30 sqr. kilom.), all of which have greatly diminished 
 since the Conquest. A portion of the present water supply 
 of Mexico City is derived from springs on the floor of Lake 
 Xochimilco (comp. p. 350). Texcoco lies in the lowest depres- 
 sion of the valley, and albeit the waters of the other lakes 
 overflow into it during the rainy season, the completion of 
 the drainage of the valley has removed all danger of inunda- 
 tions. The swampy shores of Texcoco are covered with de- 
 posits of soda — tequesquite. The water is salty, but of less 
 specific gravity than that of the ocean. The waters of Xochi- 
 milco and Chaleo are sweet. 
 
 1 Texcoco , or Tezcuco, signifies “place of detention ” ; as several of the 
 tribes who successively occupied Andhuac were said to have halted some 
 time on the spot. (Ixtlilxochitl, Hist. Chic., M. S. Cap. 10.) 
 
Tne Tezcucans. VALLEY OF MEXICO 42 . Route. 249 
 
 The origin of the Tezcucans is a mystery which has not been satisfactorily 
 explained. Students of Mexican history concur in the belief that a vast lacus- 
 trine population once dwelt in the Valley of Mexico, and that a high state ot 
 civilization existed here (comp. p. civ) many years before Cortes and his bold 
 raiders came to disrupt it. 
 
 It is possible that this lofty, imperial vale whence kings, emperors and re- 
 gents have ruled their vast domains was anciently a sort of Ellis Island, or 
 clearing-house for swarms of peoples who entered and settled in various 
 parts of the present Republic. These tribes, or groups, or races who spoke 
 the 165 languages and dialects that once existed in Mexico, arrived, per- 
 chance, at this high, fair valley just as in our own time millions of foreign 
 immigrants have come to the friendly port of New York. That the former 
 were of as many different origins and strains as the latter, no one familiar 
 with the various tribes in microcosmic Mexico will doubt. 
 
 That a pyramid-erecting people built the great Pyramids of San Judn 
 Teotihuacan (p. 425), Cholula (p. 518), Papantla (p. 507) and others in the 
 country, is incontrovertible. Certain characteristics of the Mayas of Yuca- 
 tan (p. 579), the Zapotecas of Mitla (p. 537), the early inhabitants of Pa- 
 lenque (p. 567), and of other places, remind one of the Egyptians. 
 
 Facially, linguistically and otherwise the Coras of Nayarit (p. 96) suggest 
 Koreans and their Turanian forebears. The T ehuantepecanos (p. 555) have 
 much in common with Burmese; the Huicholes (p. 93) are Mongoloid, and 
 the Tarascans (p. 217) resemble Chaldeans. Many of the minor tribes of 
 Indians in Sonora and Chihuahua are affiliated with Apaches, who are aber- 
 rant Mongols and are offshoots of the Athabascan Family — whose habitat 
 was in Alaska. There is much in Mexico to support the theory that the 
 primitive settlers came originally from or through Asia. And the belief is 
 simplified when ore recalls that a traveller can come from the Asiatic main- 
 land to Mexico without having to cross any body of water more than 60 
 miles wide. Korea, on the Chinese mainland, is but 120 miles from Japan, 
 with the intervening islands of Tsushima midway of the strait. 
 
 From the easternmost point of Yezo, Japan’s most northerly island, to the 
 southernmost of the Kuril Islands, is 30 miles. This crescent-shaped string 
 of islands, in its northerly reach for Kamchatka, resembles a series of huge 
 stepping-stones, each island so close to its neighbor that a native in a stout 
 sailboat could compass the distance between them without being on the 
 water more than a day at a time. 
 
 By skirting the shore, or tramping through Kamchatka to the edge of 
 Behring Sea, he would soon find himself within 50 nautical miles of the 
 Alaskan coast, across an easily navigable strip of water. In a time not very 
 remote the Aleutian Islands formed an unbroken causeway between Asia and 
 America, and over it no doubt came the first mammoth from its home in 
 Egypt and the first grizzly bear from its habitat in Yezo. 
 
 Flowing about 24 hours off the coast of Western Japan is an ocean current 
 known to the Japanese as the Kuro Shiwo (black brine), and to mariners 
 as the Pacific Gulf Stream. Rising in Luzon waters it sweeps northward 
 along the Japan coast, bends south of the Aleutian Islands, impinges on the 
 American continent near Sitka (Alaska), then flows southward along the 
 California coast under the name of the North Pacific Drift. From 300 to 
 500 miles wide, and moving at a velocity of from 20 to 100 miles a day ac- 
 cording to the winds and seasons, it has carried more than one dismantled 
 Asiatic junk as jetsam to a South American beach, and sailors realize that 
 such a craft could make the trip from China to California without being out 
 of sight of land for more than 3 or 4 days at a time. It requires no great 
 stretch of the imagination to conclude that it is the old fluvial lane over 
 which the first Americans, came to our hospitable shore. If proof were 
 wanted one has but to point to the aberrant Mongol types scattered over 
 Alaska and Esquimau land to-day. That the migrating peoples who found 
 this ocean route to Alaska and spread thence over the American continent 
 would inevitably drift southward in search of the warmth and the summer 
 sea to which they had perhaps been accustomed is a reasonable supposition. 
 It is borne out by the fact that the Aztecs, the Apaches and many of the 
 smaller tribes who long ago settled in Mexico came from Alaska (see p. clxiv) 
 — the trail of the Aztecs from Alaska to the Valley of Mexico being almost 
 as sharply defined as if it were made yesterday. 
 
250 
 
 VALLEY OF MEXICO Drainage-Canal. 
 
 The natural products of the valley are chiefly agricultural, 
 and are in keeping with the climate; com, wheat, fruit and 
 vegetables being the leading products, in the order named. 
 Oranges, lemons, figs, quinces, peaches, strawberries (at 
 San Angel), ahuacates, nuts, olives, and a wide variety of 
 such products grow in profusion. The apple and pear orchards 
 of Tlalpan and San Angel are celebrated. 
 
 Encompassing San Angel are wide maguey fields which 
 produce the beloved pulque (p. lxxxii) of the pelados. The 
 mountain forests contain pine, cedar and medicinal woods, 
 and they furnish a limited supply of building material. In 
 the N.-E., near Pachuca, some of the richest silver-mines of the 
 Republic are located. Sulphur is obtained from the crater 
 of Popocatepetl. Water-fowl frequent the lakes, and from the 
 waters of these, numerous fishermen ( Pescadores ) obtain 
 small but palatable fish (known as juiles, char ales and metzla- 
 piques) with which they supply the Mex. city markets. Flow- 
 ers in great variety and abundance grow throughout the year. 
 For reference to climate see p. xxvi. 
 
 The Valley of Mexico is drained through a huge canal ( Canal 
 del Desague) about 30 M. long, begun at the instigation of 
 President Porfirio Diaz, in 1879, and completed in 1900 at a 
 total cost of about sixteen millions of pesos. Its completion 
 removed the danger of inundations of Mexico City and solved 
 a problem which occupied the thoughts of the Aztecs as far 
 back as 1449, as well as those of the peoples who followed them. 
 The first dam connecting Tenochtitlan with Tepeyac (Guada- 
 lupe) and Lake Xochimilco was constructed about 1450; 
 it was destroyed by the Spanish invaders at the time of the 
 Conquest. In 1553 the (2d) Spanish Viceroy ( Luis de Velasco) 
 caused the San Lazaro dike to be built, and in 1856 President 
 Comonfort invited bids for the construction of a system of 
 canals that would forever place the Mexican capital beyond 
 the danger of the Texcocan waters. Of the number of pro- 
 jects presented, those of the engineer Francisco Garay were 
 selected, and the present extensive construction is in accord- 
 ance with his ideas. Nearly eleven million cubic meters of 
 earth were removed from the grand canal, and 3,000 men and 
 5 dredging-machines were kept constantly employed for many 
 years in this titanic undertaking. 
 
 The canal starts at a point E. of the city near the old San 
 Ldzaro gate, about 5 ft. below the mean level of the capital. 
 It winds between the Guadalupe range and Lake Texcoco, 
 crosses Lakes San Cristobal, Xal toe an and Zumpango, and 
 ends near the town of Zumpango (in the State of Mexico), 
 after crossing the Guadalupe River by means of an aqueduct 
 50 centimeters above the mean level of that stream. The 
 depth at the starting-point is 16 ft.; at the terminal 65 ft. 
 It is crossed by four aqueducts and 13 bridges. The tunnel 
 
VALLEY OF MEXICO 42. Route . 251 
 
 section, called Tunel de Tequixquiac (because of its proximity 
 to the town of that name), runs beneath the Xalpan Mts., 
 and is 10 kilom. long. The big dam which controls the water 
 as it enters the last tunnel is a fine piece of engineering. A 
 system of lock gates insures control of the waste waters, and 
 regulates the level of Lake Texcoco, thus preventing inunda- 
 tions. 
 
 The Valley of Mexico has undergone considerable modi- 
 fication since the completion of the drainage-works. All the 
 surface water is now controlled, but the great bed ( colchon de 
 agua) of sub-soil water that once formed a fairly stable foun- 
 dation for the buildings of Mexico City has now been drained 
 off, with the result that many of the heavier buildings are 
 slowly sinking and are presenting a problem that the most 
 expert engineers find difficulty in solving. They claim that 
 the houses are sinking faster now than formerly. Oddly enough, 
 the huge structures are fairly stable during the rainy season, 
 when the sub-soil is water-soaked, but as soon as this drains 
 off the process of hundimiento (sinking) continues. 
 
 Situation, History, and Character of the City. 
 
 Mexico City (La Ciudad de Mejico, commonly called 
 Mexico); capital of the Federal District and of the Republic, 
 the residence of the President, the seat of a bishop, and a uni- 
 versity; the social, commercial and financial centre of the 
 Republic, lies in latitude 19° 26' N. of the equator, and in 
 longitude 99° 6' 45" W. from Greenwich, at an altitude of 
 7,434 ft. above the sea — the nearest point of which is 263 
 miles distant, on the E. The census of 1900 registered a popu- 
 lation of 368,177, while that of 1922 showed 615,367, the in- 
 crease being due chiefly to the steady influx of foreigners, and 
 to sanitary measures which help to decrease the death rate. It 
 is perhaps the oldest city on the American continent , its authen- 
 tic history dating back to the 12th century. The ancient Aztec 
 metropolis of Tenochtitldn (capital of the Empire of Monte- 
 zuma) had for its centre the great teocalli (p. clxviii) which was 
 on or near the site now occupied by the Cathedral — the 
 mother church of New Spain. This giant pyramid, along with 
 the Aztec city, was so completely destroyed by the Spanish 
 invaders that scarcely a vestige remains above ground. As 
 the Indian temples were of massive construction it is sup- 
 posed that they gradually sunk out of sight (just as the pres- 
 ent city is doing), and now lie buried beneath the modern 
 capital. 1 
 
 1 This sinking process is particularly observable in the case of the 
 Escuela National de Ingenieros (p. 330). the Loreto Church (p. 362), that 
 of La Santisima Trinidad (p. 365) and La Profesa (p. 318). For years these 
 sometime fine structures have been sinking and threatening a collapse. 
 In the School of Engineers (the old Palacio de Minas), adjacent to the 
 new Correo, the walls, pillars and corridors have, in certain places, sunk 
 
252 Route J$. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 The Old City . 
 
 “ The Ancient Tenochtitlan was shaped like a parallel- 
 ogram and covered the same spot occupied by the present 
 capital. The great causeways touched it in the same points; 
 the streets ran in much the same direction, nearly from X. to 
 S. and from E. to W.; and the four principal quarters of the 
 town are still known among the Indians by their ancient names. 
 
 “The old dikes were three in number: that of Iztapalapan 
 (now the road to Coyoacan) by which the Spaniards entered, 
 approaching the city from the S.; that of Tepeyacac (now 
 the Boulevard to Guadalupe), on the X., which, continuing 
 the principal street, might be regarded, also, as a continua- 
 tion of the first causewa}^, and, lastly, the dike of Tlacopan 
 (now the Calle del Puente de Alvarado and the Tacuba Road), 
 connecting the island-city with the continent on the W. This 
 last causeway, memorable for the disastrous retreat of the 
 Spaniards on the Sad Night (p. clxxxiii), was about two miles 
 in length. They were all built in the same substantial manner, 
 of lime and stone, were defended by draw-bridges ( puentes 
 levadizos), and were wide enough for twelve horsemen to ride 
 abreast. The edifices (of which it is affirmed there were 
 120,000) were constructed of a red, porous stone, with some 
 reference to architectural solidity, if not elegance. The man- 
 sions of the nobility were on a scale of rude magnificence cor- 
 responding with their state.. They were low, seldom more 
 than one floor, never exceeding two. They were spread over 
 a wide extent of ground, were arranged in a quadrangular 
 form, with a court in the centre, and were surrounded by 
 porticos or portales, embellished with porphyry and jasper, 
 while not unfrequently a fountain of crystal water in the centre 
 shed a grateful coolness though the air. Most of the streets 
 were mean and narrow. Some few, however, were wide and of 
 great length. The principal street, conducting from the great 
 southern causeway, penetrated in a straight line the whole 
 length of the city, and afforded a noble vista, in which the 
 long lines of low stone edifices were broken occasionally by 
 intervening gardens, rising on terraces and displaying all the 
 pomp of Aztec horticulture. 
 
 “ The greater streets, which were coated with a hard cement, 
 were intersected by canals almost Venetian in their multi- 
 plicity. Some of these were flanked by a solid way which 
 served as a foot-walk for passengers, and as a landing-place 
 where boats might discharge their cargoes. The canals were 
 
 as much as 40 inches; a defect very noticeable in the centre of the struc- 
 ture. The Loreto ch. leans toward the E., and since its erection some two 
 hundred years ago it has been sinking at the rate of half a centimeter a 
 year — a little more than a yard in two centuries. These buildings were 
 constructed by the celebrated architect Manuel Tolsa , and since that 
 worthy man died without confession, certain priests predict the total 
 collapse of the two buildings — perhaps within the next century or so. 
 (Comp. Valley of Mexico, p. 244.) 
 
History. MEXICO CITY 42. Route. 253 
 
 traversed by numerous bridges, many of which could be raised, 
 affording the means of cutting off communication between 
 different parts of the city. The surface of these inland seas, 
 as Cortes styles them, was darkened by thousands of canoes — 
 an Indian term — industriously engaged in the traffic between 
 these little communities. How gay and picturesque must 
 have been the aspect of the lake in those days, with its shining 
 cities, and flowering islets ( chinampas , or floating gardens) 
 rocking, as it were, at anchor on the fair bosom of its waters ! 
 
 “ The city was said to be nearly three leagues in circumfer- 
 ence. The immense size of its great market-place; the long 
 lines of edifices, vestiges of whose ruins may still be found in 
 the suburbs, miles from the modern city; the fame of the 
 metropolis throughout Anahuac, all attest a population far 
 beyond that of the present capital.” 1 (Prescott’s Conquest of 
 Mexico.) 
 
 The Calendar Stone and the Sacrificial Stone along with 
 many other idols, monoliths and remains of the old civiliza- 
 tion have been dug up from the sub-soil, and Indian relics 
 to-day reward the searcher in almost any spot. The ancient 
 city is said to have been founded July 18, 1325, on what was 
 then an island in the salt Lake of Texcoco, albeit historians 
 point to the occupation of the Valley of Mexico by the Tol- 
 tecs in the year 7 00. Some of the Aztec houses were constructed 
 on piles, like the pre-historic Swiss lake dwellings, and like 
 those of Malaysia of to-day. To protect the capital from the 
 inundations to which it was subject, the early Aztecs or Mexica 
 constructed an elaborate system of dikes, the remains of 
 which can still be seen. In 1466 Montezuma I ordered a dike 
 7£M. long and 65 ft. wide to be constructed. These dikes and 
 their bridges proved the undoing of the Spaniards on more 
 than one occasion. 
 
 With the downfall of Tenochtitldn, the Spaniards set about 
 their work of destruction and reconstruction. The ecclesiasti- 
 cal zealots destroyed the Indian idols, the canals were filled 
 in with the debris of the demolished Aztec temples and 
 houses, and in Hess than four years from the demolition of 
 the ancient metropolis, a new city had arisen on its ruins. 
 It occupied so exactly the same site as its predecessor, that 
 the plaza mayor , or great square, was the same spot which 
 had been covered by the huge teocalli and the palace of 
 Montezuma; while the principal streets took their departure 
 as before from this central point, and, passing through the 
 whole length of the city, terminated at the principal cause- 
 ways. Great alterations, however, took place in the fashion 
 of the architecture. The streets were widened and many of 
 
 1 Bernal Diaz ( Historia de la Conquista) says the city had a circum- 
 ference of 10 M. and a population of 60,000. Cortes , in one of his letters, 
 compared the Aztec city to Seville. 
 
254 Route 42 . MEXICO CITY History. 
 
 those which had hitherto been waterways were made solid. 
 The edifices were constructed on a plan more to the taste and 
 requirements of a European population. On the site of the 
 temple of the war-god rose the stately Cathedral, consecrated 
 to the Assumption of the Virgin, and as if to complete the 
 triumph of the Cross, the foundations were laid with the broken 
 images of the Aztec gods.” The Spaniards changed every- 
 thing but the valley floor, and in founding the present city on 
 the boggy, unsanitary site of the Aztec stronghold, Cortes 
 paved the way for the untimely death of many thousands of 
 his countrymen — more perhaps (by the eternal law of com- 
 pensation) than were killed by his cohorts in the destruction 
 of the Aztec capital. In 1600 the population consisted of about 
 7,000 Spaniards and some 8,000 Indians, and the value of the 
 real estate was upward of 20 millions of pesos. Despite its no- 
 torious unhealthfulness the city grew apace, and in 1750 it 
 was of such size and importance that its population was said 
 to number 90,000. At that period it was a filthy mud-hole, 
 unpaved, unprotected and undrained. The Spanish historian 
 who in the middle of the 18th cent, wrote that Madrid era 
 la corte mas sucia que se conocia en Europe (the dirtiest capital 
 in Europe) could have said with truth that Mexico City in 
 the 18th cent, was the oldest and filthiest city on the Ameri- 
 can continent. 
 
 When forty years later Juan Vicente de Giiemez Pacheco 
 de Padilla ( Conde de Revillagigedo) came from Spain as 
 Viceroy (1789-94), he undertook improvements which cause 
 him to be regarded as the real founder of the modern city. 
 He corrected many abuses and instituted many good ideas 
 in civic government. Serious efforts were made to drain the 
 metropolis; the footpads which infested the streets were ex- 
 terminated; grafters were relegated to the limbo designed by 
 fate for all such social vultures, and those who were not ex- 
 ecuted were imprisoned or banished. An effective police force 
 was established, and life became fairly safe for the first time 
 in the history of the place. Henceforth the city gradually as- 
 sumed its present aspect. Its greatest growth and expansion 
 began about 1S90; a series of the old city maps shows that 
 for the hundred years which followed 1794, it was almost 
 stationary. 
 
 Since the Conquest there have been five great inundations, one of 
 which lasted five years. During this interval the seat of government was 
 removed to the adjacent suburb of Tacubaya; communication was had 
 by means of boats; trade was paralyzed and the misery of 'the lower 
 classes was appalling. There were no cellars, and w T hen the waters of the 
 lake flooded the buildings they deposited therein the accumulated filth 
 of centuries; producing terrible epidemics and revenging the Aztecs for 
 the Spanish invasion. The contrast between the pagan Aztec city with 
 its stately buildings and its myriad canals alive with the gay pirogues of 
 the pleasure-loving people, and that of the Christian Spaniards with its 
 
Colonias. MEXICO CITY 42 . Route. 255 
 
 filth, its pillories and grisly gallows, its footpads, dirty lanes and un- 
 sanitary homes, was significant. 
 
 For many years the Plaza Mayor was only 3 or 4 ft. above the level of 
 Lake Texcoco. Owing to the constant evaporation of its waters the sur- 
 face of the lake is now much lower than during the vice-regal period. 
 
 The Present City. The first intelligent and sustained ef- 
 forts to beautify the modern capital were made by Maximilian 
 and Carlota. The Plaza Mayor, then an empty expanse of 
 stone pavement, was converted into the present zocalo. The 
 idea of planting flowers and trees in the central square pleased 
 the Mexicans, and the pretty, flower-embowered plazuelas of 
 other towns in the Republic owe their being to this imperial 
 initiative. The Emperor and Empress beautified Chapultepec , 
 added to the charm of the Alameda, modernized the Paseo de 
 la Reforma, and showed the Mexicans that they had the setting 
 for one of the most beautiful cities of the world. The famous 
 Reform Laws of Benito Juarez materially aided in the efforts 
 to improve the place. Hitherto the principal streets were 
 blocked or curtailed by vast conventual estates, and the 
 clerics obstinately refused to sacrifice their rights to the 
 spirit of progress. But the Leyes de la Reforma changed this. 
 
 From 1810 to 1870 there was practically no peace in the 
 Republic; revolutions were frequent, the city was the scene 
 of almost constant internecine strife, commerce barely held 
 its own, and the people invested their money in nothing that 
 could be confiscated or destroyed. With the advent of Porfirio 
 Diaz the nation found itself with a real man at its head, and 
 to that man’s almost limitless patience and industry, coupled 
 with phenomenal foresight, much of the amplification and 
 symmetry of the present capital is due. Diaz welcomed all 
 foreigners, and about 1890 an American company planned 
 a colonia near the Paseo de la Reforma; swamp land was 
 converted into dry ground, streets were laid out and the first 
 house of the present Colonia Juarez was erected. 
 
 This colony, where the buildings do not have the typical and national 
 air characteristic of those in the older part of the city, but rather a 
 foreign, or semi-foreign aspect, has expanded in an extraordinary way. 
 Formerly it was represented by a few houses to the W. of the Calles de 
 Bucareli, and S.-E. of the Cuauhtemoc Statue; now it is embraced in, and 
 almost fills, the vast triangle formed by the Calles de Bucareli on the E., 
 the Chapultepec and Tacuhaya car-tracks on the S., the Paseo de la 
 Reforma on the N., and the Parque de Chapultepec on the W. 
 
 The streets in this colony are named (with a single exception) for 
 foreign cities: Liverpool, Berlin, Vienna, London, etc. The exception is 
 the Calle de Dinamarca (Denmark), the fatherland of the Dane (Mr. F. P. 
 Hoeck) who erected the first house in the district. The chief plaza is also 
 called Dinamarca. Land values here have risen from S3 per square meter 
 in 1890 to S50 or more. 
 
 Other colonies have been added since, and new ones are 
 being planned, thus giving the present city a wider area than 
 it formerly had. The steady influx of foreigners, — a sort of 
 
156 Route 42. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Progress. 
 
 pacific invasion, — coupled with Mexican progressiveness, have 
 been the prime factors in the phenomenal growth of the city; 
 advancing it to the front rank of importance in Latin America. 
 Mexicans now proudly consider their capital city a miniature 
 Paris; its present status was certainly undreamed-of in 
 Colonial times. 
 
 The capital is in process of almost constant reformation; 
 new streets are being cut through, the haciendas adjacent 
 to the new 7 colonms are being cut up into building lots, the 
 commercial centre is slowly but surely shifting westward 
 from its original focus at the Plaza Mayor , and hundreds of 
 new houses are completed each year. Mexico City has no 
 intention of resting satisfied with a great yesterday, but is de- 
 termined upon making a future for herself. Between visit and 
 visit certain spots in the city grow almost out of recognition. 
 Hitherto dirty squares are found changed into flower-decked 
 plazas; squat buildings of Colonial days are demolished and 
 rise as sky-scrapers, and an enlightened Government is found 
 spending vast sums in beautifying the old capital, and in 
 erecting suitable houses for its municipal departments. The 
 new Palacio Legislativo in course of erection in the Plaza 
 de la Republica (PL E, 4) will cost upward of ten millions 
 of pesos, and will be, w T hen completed, one of the finest struc- 
 tures in Latin America. The ne'w and palatial residences 
 near the proposed palacio, one a striking application of Gothic 
 motives to secular architecture, are indicative of the wealth 
 and taste that will be lavished on the future homes of the 
 Mexicans. 
 
 The superficial area of the present city is about 15 square 
 miles, divided into Cuarteles , or Demarcaciones , and sub- 
 divided into squares or manzanas. There are at present 8 
 of the former, but the continued growth and spread of the 
 city toward the S.-W. wall no doubt necessitate adding new 
 ones from time to time. There are about 1,000 manzanas 
 with 2,500 or more streets ( cdlles ) and lanes ( callejones ) ; many 
 plazas, and some 22,000 houses ( casas ). Upward of 200 miles 
 of tramways ( tranvias ) gridiron the city and suburbs, and the 
 former is lighted by 2,500 arc-lamps, and almost as many in- 
 candescents, and is policed by about 2,000 gendarmes . The 
 Calle de San Juan de Letran is taken as the dividing-fine, or 
 eje, between the older part of the city at the E. and the 
 newer portion at the W. Each cuartel is under the super- 
 vision of a comisario — housed in the comisaria , or police- 
 station — and he, in turn, is responsible to an inspector gen- 
 eral. The Chief of Police, the Inspector General, and similar 
 officials, are amenable to the Gobernador (governor) del Dis- 
 trito Federal. Cuarteles III and IV are the oldest; and III, 
 IV, and V are the most populous. Cuarteles VII and VIII 
 illustrate graphically the rapid growth of the city. 
 
 
Las Calles. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 J+2. Route . 257 
 
 The Older Quarter of the city — that portion lying to the 
 E., north and S of the Cathedral and Palacio — has not kept 
 pace with the new portion, whose trend is steadily westward 
 and is of a progressive nature. The old portion contains but 
 little of real interest to the traveller. Particularly to be 
 avoided is that region to the N.-W. of San Lazaro (PL I, 3) 
 called Colonia dc la Bolsa, as it is the plague and crime-spot of 
 the city. It is a sort of native Ghetto with dirty and microbic 
 streets, repulsive sights and evil smells ; where the inhabitants 
 could never be accused of excessive tidiness. The enlightened 
 “City Fathers’’ propose to take energetic measures to clean 
 or stamp out this foul region, which is just as offensive to in- 
 telligent Mexicans as it is to foreign visitors. 
 
 The Calles, of which there are oftentimes a 1st, 2d, 3d 
 and so on of the same name, referred to by Mexicans as Calles 
 de Dios (streets of God), though mostly decked out with, new 
 names, are nearly all rich in historical interest — theatres of 
 stirring events prior to and after the Conquest. Repeated 
 municipal edicts have changed many of the old names, and 
 the devastating hand of progress has demolished not a few 
 of the quaint old churches and seigniorial houses which once 
 flanked them, but their legendary romance and history is 
 enshrined in more than one volume of poetry and prose. 
 Many of the streets were once named for Indian heroes (of 
 the Spanish invasion), for churches, convents or religious 
 orders, but the present tendency is to apply more modern 
 names, albeit certain of the old ones have been retained 
 because of their historical associations. The street nomen- 
 clature of that portion of the city lying W. of the Plaza Mayor 
 was readjusted in 1908, and many of the names in the older, 
 or eastern quarter of the city were changed in 1909. The 
 aim, with special regard to the colonias, is to enable one to 
 locate the section of the city as soon as the street name is 
 given; for example, in the Colonia Santa Maria all streets 
 running N. and S. are named for trees; those from E. to W. 
 for flowers or for notable Mexicans. As mentioned at p. 255, 
 the C. Juarez streets are named for foreign cities; C. Roma 
 and Condesa for Mex. states and cities; C. Cuauhtemoc for 
 rivers; C. San Rafael for celebrated men of all nationalities, 
 and so on. The streets in the immediate vicinity of the new 
 Palacio Legislativo (PL E, 4) bear the names of the Diputados 
 Constituyentes, or representatives who framed the original 
 Constitution, in 1857. The names of certain of the old-time 
 streets, such as El Puente de Jesus (bridge of Jesus), Puerta 
 Falsa de San Andres (false door of St. Andrew), Nino Perdido 
 (lost child), Calle de las Ratas (street of the rats) and so on, 
 were historical puzzles to the foreigner. 
 
 New names were given to various of the city streets in 1921, 
 at the centenary celebration of Mexican Independence. 
 
258 Route 1$. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 The Streets. 
 
 The busy Avenida de Francisco I. Madero (formerly the 
 Avenida de San Francisco ), which prolongs the Ave. Juarez 
 to the Plaza Mayor , the Calle de Gante } the Ave. 16 de Septi- 
 embre, and the several cross streets which lead thence to the 
 Avenida Madero and on to the broad Avenida Cinco de Mayo , 
 are the busiest and among the most interesting thorough- 
 fares of the city. 
 
 The Avenida F. I. Madero is the Broadway or Strand of 
 Mexico City; here many foreigners have beautiful and at- 
 tractive shops, and the massive, time-stained houses, many 
 of them with sculptured fagades almost as attractive as those 
 of the churches, are quaint and interesting. 
 
 The square bounded by the Calle de Bolivar on the E., 
 Cinco de Mayo on the N., San Juan de Letran on the W., and 
 the Ave. 16 de Septiembre on the S., is the nerve-centre of 
 American and British activity. This also extends to the lower 
 end of 5 de Mayo , where stands the imposing Mutual Life 
 Ins. Co. building, with the Bank of Montreal and many 
 offices. 
 
 The headquarters of the Mexico Tramways Co. is in Gante 
 St.., and here also is the noble old Church of San Francisco 
 (p. 321), one of the finest ecclesiological relics in the city. 
 Erected with a money grant of Herndn Cortes , it was for a 
 century or so the focus of the ecclesiastical power in New 
 Spain. 
 
 The Ave. de F. I. Madero and the contiguous streets awaken 
 memories of Paris, Naples and Madrid; they are among the 
 liveliest in the city, and one will rarely see a more pleasing 
 spectacle than they offer on a Sunday or a holiday. The beau- 
 tiful sunshine adds a permanent charm, and the national 
 vivaciousness, and the picturesqueness of the people, differen- 
 tiate the streets and the crowd from those of any Anglo- 
 Saxon city. At certain hours in the forenoon, and just before 
 twilight on any day, they are usually thronged with hand- 
 some women, gay equipages, hurrying messengers, merchants, 
 priests, American promoters, bull-baiters, cargadores f daw- 
 dling lagartijos (lizards, or loungers) and groups of animated 
 men who talk business, dodge automobiles, smoke cigarettes, 
 suck cane-heads, deplore the high prices of rents, discuss the 
 phenomenal rise in city realty, question the stability of the 
 gold-standard and the fluctuations of silver, and pass the 
 sunny hours with true Latin insouciance. On every side one 
 sees hats lifted, fingers wiggled in salutations, bowing, hand- 
 shaking and introductions and leave-takings, while the air 
 vibrates with greetings, laughter, compliments, protestations 
 and gesticulations, and a varying medley of street cries. 
 
 Lottery-ticket venders — the halt, the lame and the blind — 
 needle their odoriferous way through the democratic throng, 
 dangling strips of tissue tickets before one’s eyes and offering 
 
The Streets . 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42 . Route. 259 
 
 vast fortunes in strident and wheedling voices. Occasionally 
 a squad of trim soldiers marches by with measured and re- 
 sounding tread, and as the memory-quickening music of drum 
 and clarion shatters the air, the politicians of the old regime 
 regard each other questioningly, shrug their padded shoulders, 
 twist their elaborately waxed Imperial mustachios, grimace, 
 show the palms of their hands expressively, and take the 
 hint ingeniously offered by a strong and stable government im- 
 patient of revolutions or pronunciamientos. In a single square 
 one may see representatives of perhaps half a dozen Indian 
 tribes — the sad and degraded descendants of the early 
 Tzins — and with them the peoples of a score or more foreign 
 nations. A steady stream of carriages, automobiles and minor 
 vehicles surges along the thoroughfare, and not only renders 
 one dizzy with the roar of traffic, but makes the safe crossing 
 of the street an acrobatic accomplishment of which one soon 
 grows proud. At midday certain of the “ to-morrow morning” 
 newspapers, printed in the vernacular, and containing the 
 latest (sic) telegrams, come hot from the press; putting foreign 
 enterprise to the blush and filling the calles with yelling 
 newsboys. Beggars sidle up to one and solicit alms — ;un 
 socorro por el amor de Dios ! — the while keeping a watchful, 
 flounder-like eye on the vigilant gendarme stationed at the 
 street-corner. Through these congested ways (which are not 
 over 20 ft. wide) the pulque- sodden cabmen drive as reck- 
 lessly as the more enlightened, but equally heedless, auto- 
 movilistas, and when one takes to the streets to pass a dawdler, 
 care and foresight are requisites. 
 
 Toward twilight — the hour decreed by fashion for its 
 devotees to promenade — the crowd grows denser and the 
 racket increases. Then, a certain class of bedizened and 
 enamelled mujerzuelas (disciples of the half- world), who have 
 slept the sweet morning hours away, make their debut; the 
 shop-windows light up, hundreds of electric signs flash in the 
 growing darkness, and a steady stream of glittering turn-outs 
 rolls in from the Paseo de la Reforma — brightened here and 
 there by modish Parisian toilettes, and the gold-lace, and ad- 
 miral-like uniforms of popular toreros. Then all Mexico comes 
 forward to its balconies to see and to be seen ; the agile rateros 
 begin to ply their light-fingered trade; the air is redolent of 
 perfume and is filled with the swishing of skirts and the sounds 
 of a moving throng; flower- venders race alongside the open 
 carriages and thrust in huge bouquets of dewy flowers arranged 
 in the most doubtful taste ; and dog- venders appear on the scene 
 and offer diminutive, and sometimes expostulating, canines — 
 fluffy and be-ribboned — to the pedestrians. From across 
 the flat roofs come the tones of church-bells — metal-tongued 
 muezzins calling the devotees to vespers and to prayer. 
 
 Few, too few, of the national costumes appear in these as- 
 
260 Route 42. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 American Club. 
 
 semblies. The graceful mantilla is still in vogue, but the usual 
 gowns of the ladies are Parisian, with a spice of Spain — - 
 noticeable for their variety and elegance. As a rule the mili- 
 tary aspect of the streets is pleasing to the visitor. The Mexi- 
 can soldado in his neat uniform is a conspicuous figure in the 
 city life, and squads of soldiers captained by dashing officers 
 are frequently to be seen marching between the different bar- 
 racks ; the foot-soldiers recall those of Italy, while the uniforms 
 of the cavalry officers are after Teutonic designs. 
 
 Toward 7 o’clock the cafes fill up, and the streets are then 
 a blaze of light; at 9 the calles are as quiet as they erstwhile 
 were noisy, and along toward 10, Mexico City goes home to 
 bed. Only the echoing tread of a belated pedestrian, or the 
 whizzing of an automobile breaks the quiet, and until morning 
 the capital is as still and as peaceful as a country village. 
 
 The altitude, coupled with the fact that many Mexicans 
 are early risers, has something to do with the absence of noisy | 
 night-life in the capital. At this great elevation the air has 
 the tonic effect of champagne, and under its stimulating in- 
 fluence one feels possessed of almost limitless energy. But in a 
 way this is deceptive, for along toward 10 p. m., after a busy ! 
 day, lassitude begins to assert itself, and the most energetic | 
 are willing to resort to “ nature’s sweet restorer.” 
 
 The American Club is in the Avenida 16 de Septiembre, 
 almost opposite the Olimpia Theatre, and nearby are several j 
 restaurants which cater to foreigners. Overlooking the Avenida i 
 F. I . Madera, diagonally across from the San Felipe Church , 
 is the beautiful House of Tiles (described in detail at p. 326), j 
 the one-time home of the celebrated Jockey Club, but now ; 
 occupied by one of the most famous restaurants in Latin 
 America. Adjacent, across the narrow Calle de la Condesa f | 
 is the sometime manorial Palacio de Escandon, with its I 
 attractive little Plazuela de Guardiola , facing the hotel of the 
 same name. 
 
 At the r.ight of the Palacio , in the midst of spacious grounds 
 allotted to it, at the upper end of the Alameda and overlooking 
 the wide Avenida Juarez , is the new and beautiful Teatro 
 Nacional (p. 326c), one of the most striking and ornate build- 
 ings in Mexico, if not in the Americas. It is a charming ex- 
 pression in sculptured marble, of the Mexican’s love for music 
 and the dramatic arts; its unique features being an unusually j 
 felicitous blend of Aztec architecture with various of the 
 other classical orders, and a colored glass curtain imported | 
 from New York at a cost of forty thousand dollars! 
 
 Converging streets at this point make the spot one of the 
 busiest in the city. Like many other cities of the world, the 
 trend in Mexico City is westward, and the small houses which 
 for so many years were features of this section are fast giving 
 way to modern structures wherein business can be conducted. 
 
Buildings. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 J+2. Route. 261 
 
 The Plaza Mayor (described in detail at p. 265) is flanked 
 on the N. by the Cathedral, on the E. by the National Palace, 
 on the S. by the Palacio Municipal and Portal de las Flores , 
 and on the W. by the Portal de los Mercadores and the Monte 
 de Piedad, or National Pawn-Shop. In the Zocalo in front of 
 the Cathedral nearly all of the city tram-cars have their ter- 
 mini. The Flower Market, or Mercado de Flores , — handsome 
 only because of its flowers, — stands at the N.-W. corner of 
 the Cathedral. 
 
 This plaza at the E., and the Equestrian Statue of Charles IV 
 (PL F, 4, p. 373) at the W., — both connected in a straight line 
 by the Avenida de F. I. Madero and the Ave . Juarez , — are 
 good points to fix in the mind from which to get one’s bearings. 
 The plaza marks the one-time centre of the Colonial city, while 
 the Bronze Horse typifies the grafting of the old on to the new. 
 The chief hotels, the foreign business houses, some of the best 
 shops, and much of the attractive city life lie midway between. 
 
 Some 3 squares N. of the Flower Market is the old Santo 
 Domingo Church (p. 353) and plaza , and the School of Medi- 
 cine (p. 356), where the hateful Inquisition had its first head- 
 quarters in New Spain. Immediately to the S.-E. of this spot, 
 in the 4 a Calle de Donceles, are certain of the government 
 offices, the School of Jurisprudence and a host of public 
 notaries ( notarios publicos). Here also is the old Church of 
 La Encarnacibn (p. 357) ; that of Santa Catalina de Sena 
 (p. 357), and the splendid old Jesuit College of San Ildefonso 
 (p. 360), now the Escuela Nacional Preparatoria. The edifice 
 is one of the most strikingly handsome Colonial structures 
 in the city. Hard by, too, is the new Camera de Diputados , 
 where Congress meets from Sept. 16 to Dec. 15, and from 
 April 1 to May 15. Due E. of this region is the ancient 
 Church of Nuestra Sehora de Loreto (p. 362), a former Jesuit 
 stronghold now leaning to its fall. Toward the S. is the Church 
 of La Santisima Trinidad (p.365), with one of the finest 
 Churrigueresque facades in the city. A few squares E. of this 
 ch. is the San Lazaro Railway Station (p. 367), the New 
 Penitentiary (p. 368), and the Rastro Nuevo , or abattoir. 
 Hereabout the neighborhood is dingy, and cleanliness does 
 not have its habitat. Though now one of the oldest and most 
 unprepossessing districts of the city, at the zenith of the 
 Colonial epoch it was one of the most fashionable. Between 
 this point and the Palacio Nacional (due W.) are a number 
 of architectural relics of vice-regal days: huge rambling 
 palacios, constructed of pink tezontle, with many gargoyles 
 and many niches once occupied by carved saints. Look in 
 whatever direction you will, the gaze rests upon a church, 
 and at noontime, when the bells ring in unison, the traveller 
 is reminded of early mornings in Florence. The Calles de la 
 Moneda y which flank the Palacio on the N., and extend out 
 
262 Route J$. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Thieves ’ Market , 
 
 toward the Sardisima Trinidad , were once the exact centre 
 of the wealth and power of New Spain, for here was located 
 the mint (p. 364) from which, during several centuries, there 
 issued a stream of silver pesos so long that it reached the 
 maritime border of far Cathay. Right here, too, is the some- 
 time splendid Escuela or Academia de Bellas Artes (p. 310), 
 or the National Picture Gallery. The spot was an art centre 
 before the Pilgrims landed on Plymouth Rock. Not far away 
 a book (the first issued in the New World) was printed on a 
 printing-press brought from Spain 25 years before Shake- 
 speare was born. Mass was said in some of the neighboring 
 churches half a century before Miles Standish was bom, or the 
 Pilgrim Fathers dreamed of religious liberty in a Western 
 world. At the N. side of the Palacio National — and an in- 
 tegral part of that great edifice — is the highly interesting 
 Museo Nacional (p. 298) with a host of relics of a civilization 
 that existed here centuries before Christopher Columbus was 
 thought of. 
 
 Just as the Avenidas de F. I. Madero and Juarez connect 
 the old city with the new, so does the broad, and foreign- 
 lookingArc. Cinco de Mayo link the Cathedral — one of the 
 oldest, and, perchance, the most interesting edifices in the Re- 
 public — with the superb new National Theatre — the one 
 symbolic of the early Colonial days, the other of 20th century 
 Mexico and its highest architectural achievement. Imme- 
 diately to the N.-E. of this splendid theatre is the new Palacio 
 de Correos (Post-Office, p. 328), indubitably one of the hand- 
 somest secular structures in the Republic. Extending back 
 from the theatre toward the W. is the fine Alameda (p. 327), 
 with its noble trees, playing fountains, sempiternal sunshine, 
 its birds and perennially blooming flowers. The neighborhood 
 directly to the N. of the post-office is tawdry and uninterest- 
 ing. Next door, to the E., is the tottering old School of Mines 
 (p. 330), once the finest structure in the metropolis, but now 
 sadly infirm, and in sharp contrast to the splendid sister- 
 edifice erected a century later. This old palacio, which once 
 sheltered General U. S. Grant, and more than once the Em- 
 peror Maximilian, is slowly sinking into the marlaceous crater 
 below the city, and paving the way, according to local archi- 
 tects, for any other unusually heavy building to be erected 
 on the unstable foundation below the capital. 
 
 South of the Plaza Mayor , in the midst of a native ghetto 
 where cleanliness is considered a sin and slothfulness a virtue, 
 is the huge Merced Market, and midway between it and the 
 plaza is the Mercado del Volador, or so-called Thieves’ 
 Market (PI. H, 4, p. 296), soon to be relegated to a fathomless 
 and well-merited oblivion. Here also stands the fine old 
 University (p. 343), once the centre of learning in the Crown 
 Colonies, and bearing the same relation to New Spain that 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 42 . Route. 263 
 
 the historic University of Salamanca did to Old Spain. Far 
 to the S.-E. of this spot — which was once a play-ground 
 in the yard of Montezuma’s Palace — is LaViga (PL H, 6, 
 p. 350) with its vanished glory, its whilom floating gardens, 
 and its gilded memories. Time was when gay, flower-decked, 
 Indian pirogues from Xochimilco paddled down this canal 
 and right away up to the Portal de las Flores on the south side 
 of the Plaza Mayor. But each year or so clips a bit off the city 
 end of this now tawdry and dirty waterway, and in this hal- 
 lowed and strenuous cycle its N. terminus represents a long 
 and frowsy walk from the animated Zocalo. 
 
 Far to the S., in a direct line, is the pleasant suburban town 
 of Tlalpan (p. 405), and between it and the city stands the 
 handsome Club Campestre (described at p. 407), and the im- 
 mense Hospicio de los Pobres (p. 353), completed in 1907. 
 
 To the E. and S. are the lakes of Xochimilco , T excoco, Chaleo 
 and their smaller dependencies ; while directly northward is 
 the famous Hill of Tepeyac (V. PI. C, 2) and the celebrated 
 Shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe, described at p. 392. 
 
 The neighborhood immediately to the S.-W. of the Plaza 
 Mayor is devoted to many huge department stores, to some 
 of the largest native banks in the Repub., and to the magni- 
 ficent old Biblioteca Nacional (PI. G, 5, p. 344) housed in 
 the old San Agustin Church — the one-time resort of religious 
 enthusiasts who went hither for disciplinary flagellation. 
 Hard by is the house in which Baron Alexander Von Humboldt 
 lodged when he was in the Mexican capital. At the corner of 
 the l a Calle de Capuchinas and the 5 a Calle Bolivar, is the house 
 (tablet) where Simon Bolivar lived in 1799. The street and its 
 prolongation is named for him, and his memory is revered by 
 Mexicans. 
 
 Due S. from this neighborhood is the old Causeway along 
 which the valorous Spaniards came firmly but jauntily in 
 1519 on their first visit to the Aztec capital. About 1 M. to 
 the W. is the frowsy, but vastly celebrated Belem Prison 
 (PI. F, 5, p. 369), and near it is the Ciudadela, described at 
 p. 369. 
 
 At some little distance to the S.-W. of the Bronze Horse 
 (p. 373) is the Colonia Juarez, one li the finest civic im- 
 provements ever grafted on to the old city. Here American 
 ideas of architecture and hygiene have attained their highest 
 development in Mexico, and hence they have radiated a wide- 
 spread influence — and a most praiseworthy one. The Colonia 
 is the focus of the American, English, French and German 
 wealth and fashion of the metropolis; the clean asphalt 
 streets — some of which are flanked by rows of fine trees — - 
 are named for European cities — Berlin, Hamburg, London, 
 Liverpool, Vienna and the like (comp. p. 255). Due S. across 
 the Chapultepec and Tacubaya car-tracks is the handsome 
 
264 Route 42 . 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Colonia Roma (due likewise to American capital and energy), 
 one of the most attractive of the city’s suburbs, with avenues 
 100 ft. wide and side streets 66 ft. wide, and the fine Plaza 
 de Orizaba. The colony dates from 1903, and most of the 
 houses were erected and sold on the instalment plan. 
 
 Westward still, stretches the fine new Colonia Condesa 
 with some splendid public fountains and the gigantic Bull- 
 Ring (comp. p. xcvii). The chief plaza is the P. Miravalle. The 
 calles (as well as those of the C. Roma) are named for Mexican 
 states and cities. Countryward from Condesa are the Colonias 
 de Hidalgo and Indianilla, one street of the latter being 
 called Calle del Hospital, the remainder named for noted 
 physicians, — Pasteur , Casimiro Liceaga, Claudio Bernard , 
 etc. The chief plaza is the P. de Hidalgo. Still further toward 
 the S. are the towns of Churubusco (p. 407), Coyoacan (p. 408), 
 the Pedregal (p. 411), La Piedad (p. 416), and San Angel 
 (p. 412). In the hills behind the latter town is the sometime 
 interesting ecclesiastical retreat known as El Desierto 
 (the desert), at present a favorite trip for automobilists, but 
 without absorbing interest tor the traveller. Toward the S.-W. 
 lie Tacubaya (p. 417) and Mixcoac (p. 416). Between Tacu - 
 bay a and Condesa are the wide Parque Central and the 
 Plaza del Hipodromo. 
 
 At the west terminus of the Paseo de la Reforma is the 
 magnificent hill-top Castle of Chapultepec (p. 379), sur- 
 rounded by the finest park in the Republic. The Paseo flanks 
 the Colonia Juarez on the N., and beside being instinct with 
 historic and literary associations, it is the handsomest and 
 most frequented boulevard in Mexico. The noteworthy statues 
 of Charles IV, Columbus , Cuauhtemoc and that to Independ- 
 ence, are described at pp. 373-8. Midway between the Iron 
 Horse and Chapultepec, on the N., is the Estacion de Colonia 
 of the National Railways of Mexico. Directly to the rear 
 of this, trending toward Chapultepec, is the new Colonia 
 ( Jo mjhtemoc, with streets named for well-known rivers — the 
 Rhine, Danube, Guadalquivir, Tiber and whatnot. The chief 
 plazas are those of Juanacatlan and Necaxa. Southward is 
 the Recreation Ground of the Spanish Colony. Immediately 
 to the N. is the Colonia de San Rafael with some wide 
 streets named for famous men — Velasquez de Leon, Guillermo 
 Prieto, Garcia Icazbalceta and so on. The Calles de Ramon 
 Guzman, and their short and narrow prolongation, the Calle 
 de Mejia, form a direct thoroughfare between the Colonia 
 rlv. station and those of Buena Vista. N. of the San Ra- 
 fael Colony is the historic San Cosme, flanked on the N. by 
 the fine Colonia de Santa Maria (p. 341), with the splen- 
 did Instituto Geologico Nacional (p. 341), and a flower- 
 embowered Alameda. Countryward are the Colonias de Santa 
 Julia, Tlaxpana, Popotla, Tacuba (with its celebrated Noche 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route. 265 
 
 Plaza Mayor. 
 
 Triste Tree (p.418), Azcapotzalco and the station of Naucdl- 
 pam , with its hill and shrine of Nuestra Senora de los Remedios 
 (p. 191). 
 
 Central Quarter of the City. 
 
 Plaza de la Constitucion. Palacio Nacional. Cathedral. Munici- 
 pal Palace. Flower Market. Portales. National Pawn-Shop. 
 Thieves’ Market. Enrico Martinez Monument. National Mu- 
 seum. San Carlos Picture Gallery. 
 
 The Plaza de la Constitucion, known also as the P. Mayor , 
 Zdcalo (socle), P. de Armas and P. de la Catedral, the geograph- 
 ical centre of the ancient Aztec city, — though far from oc- 
 cupying that point in the present city, — is the largest plaza 
 in the Republic and one of the most animated and interesting 
 spots in the capital. Here the wandering Aztecs first saw (in 
 1325) the symbolic eagle and snake (comp. p. clxiv), and on this 
 spot they erected later their first and greatest teocalli — temple. 
 A portion of the present plaza was formerly included in the 
 teocalli grounds; the remainder was a part of the reserve sur- 
 rounding the palace of Montezuma. The spot was the scene 
 (1521) of a sanguinary battle between the Aztecs and the im 
 vading Spaniards. After the fall of Tenochtitldn the victorious 
 Iberians destroyed the massive temple and the adjoining edi- 
 fices, and filled in the converging canals with their debris. Histo- 
 rians speak of the spot as the Aztec forum, 1 the great depository 
 of ancient sculpture, which uow lies hid in its bosom. The sub- 
 soil is a museum of stone idols and Aztec relics. (Such monu- 
 ments are, however, scattered all through the capital, and a 
 “foundation can scarcely be laid beneath the surface without 
 turning up some of the mouldering relics of barbaric art.”) 
 The Aztec Calendar Stone and many of the idols and sculp- 
 tures in the National Museum were dug up here. The Christian 
 Spaniards erected a gallows on the site of the teocalli, where 
 thousands of victims were immolated each year, and for many 
 years after the Conquest an array of criminal Castilian heads 
 grinned a grisly welcome to the astonished country Indians 
 who came to the capital to learn of the gentle religion taught 
 by the strangers. 
 
 Considerable political interest is connected with this plaza. 
 On Sept. 27, 1821, Agustin de Iturbide rode into the square, 
 at the head of his victorious army, and was cheered as a liber- 
 ator. He was here proclaimed emperor on the night of May 
 18, 1822, and on July 21 of the same year he and his wife 
 crossed the plaza and entered the Cathedral to receive the 
 crown which is supposed to lie heavily on imperial heads. 
 The bronze equestrian statue of Charles IV (now facing 
 
 1 The Plaza of Tlaltelolco (now Santiago ) is nearly as prolific in ancient 
 monuments as the Plaza Mayor; some of the finest of theAztec sculptures 
 now' in the museum were unearthed there. Father Olmedo , chaplain to 
 Cortes , w'as buried there in 1524. 
 
266 Route 42 . MEXICO CITY Plaza Mayor . 
 
 the Paseo de la Reforma) was erected here Nov. 9, 1803, and 
 it was removed (1824) for safe-keeping to the patio of the Uni- 
 versity. For many years the plaza was used as a great market 
 ( parian ) and it was the centre of Mexico’s richest trade. 
 The parian was a species of great bazaar (of which the Aztec 
 tianguiz was the prototype) and through it, in a golden stream, 
 passed the rich and quaint products of the Indian world. 
 During the great revolutionary riot of Dec., 1828, the houses 
 of the wealthy merchants located near the parian or Alcai- 
 ceria (so called because built after the manner of the raw silk 
 market in Manila, P. I.) were sacked and destroyed and the 
 market disappeared. Soon thereafter, the merchants moved to 
 Plateros and San Francisco streets, and these became the 
 greatest marts of the capital. The garden of the Zocalo de- 
 rives its name from the socle placed there about 1850 as the 
 foundation for a monument to Mexican Independence. A 
 music-stand was erected instead, and the monument rose 
 (comp. p. 378) in the fourth glorieta of the Paseo de la Reforma. 
 The American flag floated above the plaza, from the National 
 Palace, in 1847, and it was followed, in 1863, by the tri-color 
 of France. The Austrian Archduke Maximilian received his 
 sinister welcome here June 12, 1864, and here on Feb. 13, 
 1867, he bade a last farewell to his adherents. General Por- 
 firio Diaz was here greeted as a patriot and hero on June 21, 
 1867, and again on Nov. 23, 1875, after the successful revolu- 
 tion of Tuxtepec. In point of progress and enlightenment, 
 his appearance on the scene proved the most momentous of all 
 that preceded him. 
 
 The first house of the present city was erected here (1522) 
 by the Conquistadores, and later the Palacio Nacional (p. 267) 
 arose and became the foci of the Spanish Crown possessions 
 in the New World. For centuries the memory of the Conquest 
 was annually celebrated here on Aug. 13. The first Bull- 
 fights (comp. p. xcvii) held in America were given here in June, 
 1526, soon after the Conquest, and in 1571 the plaza became 
 the chosen exhibition grounds of the Inquisition (p. 356) ; j 
 a Dominican institution imported for the benefit of those who | 
 “ by the grace of God should be kept free from heresy.” On 
 the morning of April 11, 1649, a procession from the alleged j 
 Holy Office crossed the plaza, and 13 unfortunates were stran- 
 gled at the Volador (p. 296) market, and later burned at the | 
 Quemadero, at the foot of the Alameda (p. 327). Many gor- 
 geous religious processions have crossed this square, and it 
 has been the theatre of many stirring political events. No 
 stranger who finds himself in Mexico City on the night of 
 Sept. 15, and the following day, should fail to visit the spot. 
 The celebration of Mexican Independence, the ringing of the 
 Independence Bell (see p. 268) and the famous grito, from 
 the balcony of the palacio , are very impressive. 
 
 
1 - 4 — 
 
 T' 
 
 ratio de Honor 
 
 JL 
 
 
 3 
 
 ■ 
 
 ?! 
 
 " “ 
 
 •Til, 
 
 UPPER FLOOR 
 PRESIDENTIAL SUITE 
 
 ** Entrance to the Conserjerta 
 
 1 Salon de Espera 
 
 2 “ Hidalgo 
 
 3 “ Rojo 
 
 4 Salita Blanca 
 
 5 Salon de Fumar 
 
 6 Biblioteca Particular del Presidents 
 
 7 Salon de Consejo dt Ministros 
 
 8 Biblioteca de la Xacion 
 
 9 Salon Verde 
 
 10 Sala Verde Chica 
 
 11 Sala de Ay ud antes del Presidente 
 
 12 Salon Amanllo 
 
Palacio Nacional. MEXICO CITY 
 
 Jfi. Route . 267 
 
 Reminders of the palmy days of the parian are the venders 
 of fruits, sweets, beverages and whatnot who still erect their 
 little stalls on the W. side of the square. On certain days, 
 the Indians from the outlying villages bring many crude, 
 home-made articles here and offer them for sale. In the atrium 
 of the Cathedral a petty commerce in prayer-books, legends, 
 pictures of saints and whatnot is effected, and the adjacent 
 portales (comp. p. 294) swarm with ice-cream sellers, toy 
 bazaars, and stands where candy, books, spectacles, post- 
 cards (some of a pornographic character), visiting-cards and 
 such are sold. On Sundays, national holidays, religious fiestas, 
 etc., the plaza is animated and picturesque. 
 
 No fewer than ten streets end in this plaza. The stately 
 Ave. Cinco de Mayo , the Ave. de F . I. Madero , the Ave. 16 
 de Septiembre (formerly Tlapaleros and Independencia ), 
 and the Calle de Tacuba (the one-time Aztec causeway) lead 
 westward from the Zocalo to the great Paseo, the new foreign 
 colonias and the Castle of Chapultepec, on the W. margin of 
 the city. The Ave. de F. I. Madero , which contains some of 
 the most elegant shops in the city, forms the shortest route 
 to the Alameda. After about \ M. this fine avenue (until 1908 
 known as the 1st and 2d streets of San Francisco, Profesaand 
 Plateros) expands into the broad Avenida Juarez, which is 
 flanked on the N. by the splendid Alameda and the Teatro 
 Nacional. This is a favorite route for public processions. The 
 Ave. 5 de Mayo is one of the widest streets of the inner city, 
 and it is perhaps the most foreign looking of all the city streets. 
 The calles on the N.-E. and S. sides of the plaza are not, as 
 a rule, as interesting to the stranger as those at the W. 
 
 At each corner of the little jardin which occupies the centre 
 of the plaza is a bronze Pegasus, surmounting a pedestal. Two 
 of the groups typify music, and two tragedy. All are the work 
 of the Spanish sculptor Agustin Querol, who did much of the 
 bronze work which adorns the new Tedtro Nacional overlook- 
 ing the Avenida Juarez. The four groups were made for the 
 teatro, and upon completion were placed in the positions 
 designed for them, on the roof above the stage. Their alti- 
 tudinous situation rendered them inconspicuous, and they 
 were transferred to the plaza in 1922. 
 
 Thousands of tram-cars pass through the plaza in the course 
 of a day, the host of city lines making of it their regular start- 
 ing point and terminus. These, with the automobiles, cabs, 
 pedestrians and whatnot render it the busiest spot in the city 
 — and one of the most picturesque. 
 
 El Palacio Nacional, or National Palace (comp. PI. H, 4, 
 also the accompanying plan of the palacio ), whose imposing 
 facade extends along the entire E. side of the Plaza Mayor 
 (with a frontage of 675 ft.), occupies a large city block, con- 
 tains a dozen or more patios or courtyards, and houses many 
 
26S Route 1>2. MEXICO CITY History. 
 
 of the government offices. Chief among these is the office of 
 the President of the Republic, the Senate, the Ministerios de 
 Hacienda and de Guerra; the Stamp Printing Office, Fed- 
 eral Treasury, Public Archives, etc. On the roof is the Ob- 
 servatorio Meteorologico Central. The Museo Nacional (p. 298) 
 occupies quarters in the X. side of the building. The Central 
 Post-Office was moved hence to its present site near the Ala- 
 meda in 1907. The section occupied by it was remodelled in 
 1909-10. 
 
 Cards of admission (Sunday is visitors day) from one’s Consul or upon 
 application to the Intendente del Palacio, in the Iniendencia, at the S. side 
 of the Patio de Honor. Fees customary, but not necessary. As the palacio 
 is in an almost constant state of reformation, and as certain of the depart- 
 ments are avowedly temporary, no attempt is here made to describe the 
 entire building in detail. As a rule visitors are chiefly interested in the 
 Museo Nacional and the presidential reception-rooms and offices. 
 
 The fagade is pierced by three imposing entrances which 
 correspond to the three principal departments into which the 
 building was divided during the Spanish occupancy. The 
 door to the r. (S.) is the Puerta de Honor , so-called because the 
 President and diplomats enter here; that in the centre is 
 the Puerta Central , or Principal, and that on the 1. (N.) the 
 Puerta Mariana, because it was completed during the admin- 
 istration of General Don Mariano Arista. Facing this, from 
 within, is a huge (bronze) seated figure of Benito Juarez. 
 
 Above the central doorway is a clock which is said to have 
 been exiled from a village in Spain for having caused great 
 alarm there by striking on its own accord. Here also is the 
 famous Liberty Bell ( Campana de la Independencia ) rung 
 by the patriot Miguel Hidalgo in the Dolores Church (comp, 
 p. cci) as a tocsin to convoke a meeting of patriots on the 
 night of Sept. 15, IS 10. From the balcony at this point the 
 president voices (on the night of Sept. 15 of each year) the 
 celebrated Grito de Dolores. The line of small turrets ( almenas ), 
 along the upper cornice, indicate, according to the principles 
 of heraldry, that the edifice is inhabited by a war-lord with 
 vassals. Above the Puerta de Honor is a winged female fig- 
 ure, in bronze, typifying Peace. The Mexican Senate ( senado ) 
 holds its meetings in the palacio (in a salon of the second floor 
 overlooking the patio principal) from Sept. 16 to Dec. 15 and 
 from April 1 to May 15. 
 
 History. Before the Conquest the site now occupied by the palacio 
 was covered by La Nueva Casa de Motecuhzoma ( Montezuma ), a huge 
 rambling structure which spread also to the present sites of the University 
 and the Vnlador Market. After the city fell into the hands of the Span- 
 iards, Cortes appropriated the property, which was later ceded to him by 
 a decree signed by Charles V at Barcelona, July 27, 1529. Cortes soon 
 thereafter began the construction of a large, squat, fortress-like house, 
 half residence and half offices, which remained in possession of his heirs 
 until Jan., 1562, at which time it was purchased for the Spanish Crown 
 by the second Viceroy, Don Luis de Velasco, who paid therefor 34,000 
 
Palacio Nacional. MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route. 269 
 
 Castellanos ; the equivalent of about 33,300 pesos. In the national 
 archives is a voluminous correspondence carried on between the half- 
 demented Spanish King and the Mexican Archbishop relative to this 
 transaction. The niggardly monarch knew the meaning of colonial 
 “graft,” and, suspecting that he was being cheated, he questioned the 
 transaction so shrewdly that the Arzobispo went to great length to prove 
 to him how such and such a portion of the new palacio could be utilized 
 for government offices, stores and whatnot, and that the annual returns 
 from the investment would be such and such a sum. The purchase was 
 decided upon only after the exasperated prelate suggested that other 
 Crown properties could be sold to good advantage and the profit derived 
 therefrom applied to the investment at issue. One hundred and fifty 
 thousand maravedls ($220) was all the parsimonious king would allow 
 out of his privy purse for the repairs needed on the house. The bill- 
 of-sale was drawn up and signed by Velasco Jan. 29, 1562, and soon 
 thereafter he took possession of the property in the name of his suspicious 
 and truculent master. 
 
 During the great riot of June 8, 1692, the palacio (then known as the 
 Casa del Estado) suffered so severely at the hands of the infuriated mob 
 that its re-edification was considered necessary, and this was begun 
 under the surveillance of the Viceroy (29th) Gaspar de la Cerda Sandoval 
 Silva y Mendoza , Conde de Galve. The plans were those of Fray Diego 
 de Valverde, who probably designed the great patio , or central court 
 (renovated in 1908), with its galleries and 40 fine arches on the lower and 
 upper floor. It is quite likely that the section in the extreme rear, of 
 pink tezontle, was left untouched, and dates from the time of Cortes. The 
 palacio remained practically as this viceroy left it, until 1820. 
 
 For many years the site was a plague spot, and hard by the structure 
 ran open sewers into which all manner of refuse was heedlessly thrown. 
 Between the palacio and the Cathedral was an uninviting cemetery; and 
 the public letrinas and the grisly gibbet which defaced the Plaza Mayor, 
 aided to make the environs far from healthy or beautiful. These condi- 
 tions were changed when the 51st Viceroy, Juan Vicente de Guemes 
 Pacheco de Padilla, Conde de Revillagigedo — a man with a genius and 
 passion for civic improvement — appeared on the scene. He repaired 
 the palacio, cleaned the plaza, hanged the grafters on their own gallows, 
 and so cleansed and freshened the city generally that it has never relapsed 
 into its old state. 
 
 Additions were made to the palace as caprice or occasion dictated or 
 required: considerable restorative work was completed during the brief 
 but tempestuous r^ign of the Emperor Maximilian. The present structure, 
 though noted neither for architectural grace nor for beauty, has a certain 
 effectiveness which does not fail to impress the visitor. 
 
 We enter through the Puerto Principal, mount the broad, 
 bare stairway immediately to the 1., turn to the r. when we 
 reach the upper floor, and proceed along the W. cloister or 
 corridor to the (S. end) entrance of the presidential apart- 
 ments. Here the admission card is taken up and a palacio 
 employee (fee not obligatory) conducts the visitor through 
 the rooms. These overlook the Patio de Honor, which has 
 24 handsome arches on the lower floor. 
 
 We first enter the Salon de Espera (waiting-room), called 
 also Sala de la Constitucion, where the President occasion- 
 ally gives interviews. The large allegorical painting, Consti- 
 tucion de 1857, is modern and unsigned. 
 
 Salon de Hidalgo (adjoining the last). The fine painting 
 on the r., of Miguel Hidalgo, life-size, is by J . Ramirez, and 
 dates from 1865. Note the handsome crystal chandeliers. 
 We turn to the 1. into the long, narrow 
 
270 Route J$. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Palaeio Nacional. 
 
 Salon Rojo (red room). In each corner is a splendid 
 Chinese vase ( tibor ), on a gilt base, supporting candelabra. 
 They belonged to the Emperor Maximilian and perhaps would 
 bring, at auction, S50,000 or more; since they are fine (and 
 rare) specimens of the (probably) late Kang-he ware, showing 
 Chinese freehand drawing. The large painting (without date 
 or name) on the r. wall is of the patriot Jose Maria Morelos. 
 Note the beautiful gilded frame with the Mexican eagle. The 
 large war scene (by Germ. Gedovius, 1906) commemorates 
 the capture of General Diaz, by French troops between Puebla 
 and Oaxaca, during the French Intervention. The General 
 is seen mounted on a white horse in the centre of the picture. 
 Carved into the bottom of the frame ( marco ) is Prisioneros de 
 Guerra — prisoners of war. The large painting of Benito Juarez 
 dates from 1876 and is the work of J. Escudero. The two mar- 
 ble vases are Carrara. The furnishings of the salon are dark 
 red. The aides ( ayudantes ) of the President are usually sta- 
 tioned here. We pass into the 
 
 Salita Blanca (little white room), a small square recep- 
 tion-room papered in light shades, with four chandeliers made 
 from Chinese vases (perhaps Blue and White Mandarin, with 
 hemispheric points resembling shagreen ; or, according to the 
 Chinese expression, “chicken’s flesh”), once the property 
 of the Emperor Maximilian. The three landscape paintings 
 (by J . M . Velasco ) represent views in the Valley of Mexico. 
 Immediately to the 1. of the exit is the E scaler a de Honor 
 (Stairway of Honor) used by diplomats who come to confer 
 with the President. On the landings are three large, mottled 
 marble vases. We cross a narrow pasillo, mount a small stair 
 (to the 1.) and emerge on a high, railed-in balcony overlooking 
 the 
 
 Jardin del Palacio Nacional, an attractive spot with 
 beautifully kept walks, palms, tall trees, fountains with gold- 
 fish, parterres of flowers, etc. Descending the stair (kitchen 
 on the r. with American ranges) we enter the trinchador , or 
 carving-room. In a smaller room, shut off by an iron grill 
 (locked), is the palace silver-plate ( vajiUa de plata), a heavy 
 service of pure silver (cost, in Europe, $500,000) which was 
 first used when the Pan-American Congress met at Mexico 
 City in 1895. The handsomely carved wood ceiling of the 
 
 Ante-Comedor (butler’s room), and the marquetry wood 
 floor, were made in Mexico (modern) at the Talleres del 
 Palaeio de Hierro. Note the fine cut-glass service with the 
 national coat-of-arms. From here we proceed to the 
 
 Comedor (dining-room), with its magnificent side-boards 
 of Alsatian oak (made in Paris) and decorated in Louis XV 
 style. Over the richly carved fireplace is a marble bust of 
 Minerva. The three splendid silver epergnes and the fruteros 
 (fruit-dishes) belonged to Maximilian, and still bear the impe- 
 
Palacio National. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42 . Route. 271 
 
 rial crest. (The remainder of this service is at Chapultepec and 
 in the Museo Nacional.) The carved wood ceiling is of Euro- 
 pean origin. The windows, hung with splendid draperies, 
 overlook the Thieves’ Market (comp. p. 296). The fine crystal 
 chandeliers swing from massive brass chains. The walls 
 and the furniture are decorated in crimson brocade satin. 
 The Presidential and State banquets are given in this room. 
 At the end of this apartment is the 
 
 Salon de Fumar (smoking-room) in the Moorish style 
 ( estilo Morisco) with metal chandeliers and adornments made 
 by native artisans. Note the small mirrors let into the walls 
 and ceiling. The marbleized pillars that support the Saracenic 
 arches are of wood. The couches and chairs are done in 
 crimson-and-gold thread brocades, in Moorish colors, with 
 Turkish cushions. (Here the guide turns back and the visitor 
 is escorted through the succeeding rooms by a camarista who 
 has special charge of them.) Passing out of the fumador we 
 enter the 
 
 Biblioteca Particular del Presidente (the President's 
 private library), a small square room with a small collection 
 of legal books in a beautifully carved case. The two landscape 
 views and the bronze bust of Napoleon I are mediocre. We 
 now enter the 
 
 Despacho Particular del President (President’s private 
 office, called also Salon de Consejo de Ministros), a regal room 
 with walls hung with yellow brocade satin, with fleur-de-lis 
 adornments on the ceiling, splendid hangings of green broad- 
 cloth with massive gold cords and monograms, a carpet with 
 corner designs representing the national arms, and a splendid 
 centre-table flanked by chairs. Note the President’s chair 
 with the gilt eagle. Also the two fine French clocks, once the 
 property of Maximilian. Likewise the French (new) tables 
 with marble tops, and the leather porte-feuilles (on the cen- 
 tre-table) facing each chair, each with a small coat-of-arms 
 in bronze. In the centre of the work-table is a silver ink-stand 
 ( tintero ) of Maximilian, on the ink-pots of which the imperial 
 crests have been erased and the letters P. N. ( Palacio Nacional ) 
 engraved instead. Maximilian’s monogram can still be seen on 
 the plate in which the group rests. We pass from this room 
 into the corner room, called the 
 
 Biblioteca de la Nacion. The book-cases are locked and 
 curtained. The decorations of the room are red and gold. The 
 handsome sculptured group (of horses) on the centre-table 
 is a replica of a famous European design. The ceiling of this 
 room is very ornate. Leaving by the N. door we enter the 
 beautiful 
 
 Salon Vuide (green room), where the President gives pub- 
 lic audiences. The walls are tapestried, and the furniture 
 upholstered with green brocade silk. The hangings are very 
 
272 Route J±2. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Cathedral . 
 
 rich and attractive. The green onyx clock is modem. Facing 
 a window overlooking the Plaza Mayor is a huge alabaster 
 vase on a column six ft. high. The two white marble busts are 
 by European sculptors, in the 
 
 Sala Verde Chica (small green room) is a large painting 
 representing a Roman chariot race, by Carle Vernet. Note 
 the splendid Hercules of Parian marble. The seven allegorical 
 paintings on the ceiling (by native painters) represent the 
 Law, etc. The candelabra in this room are noteworthy. We 
 cross the Salita para los ayudantes del Presidente, and enter 
 the fine 
 
 Salon Amarillo (yellow room), where the President re- 
 ceives foreign ambassadors. On the r. is a huge painting of 
 Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla holding aloft the banner of Guada- 
 lupe. The written inscription at the bottom of the picture 
 says that it represents the revolutionary leader just after 
 the battle of the Monte de las Cruces. It further advises 
 that he was born May 8, 1753, and when 58 years of age was 
 shot July 31, 1811. Comp. p. 27. The picture is of heroic size, 
 the work of H. Faver (1895). The gilt frame is particularly 
 handsome. Further along is a life-size painting of the German 
 Emperor. On the other side of the salon is a large picture (by 
 J . Cusachs, 1901) of President Porfirio Diaz on horseback. It 
 was a present to the Federal District by the State of Vera 
 Cruz-Llave. The doors of this room are finely carved. We 
 leave the apartments by the same door through which we 
 entered. 
 
 Above one of the windows near the side (N.) entrance to the palacio 
 is a brass tablet 1 on which is inscribed, in Spanish: “ Here stood the house 
 in which the Meritorious Benito Juarez, Constitutional President of the 
 Republic, died on the night of June IS, 1872. He implanted the Reform, 
 consolidated Independence and Liberty and preserved unstained the 
 National Dignity. Mexico glorifies his memorj’ on this first centenary of 
 his birth, to-day, March 21, 1906.” 
 
 According to a tablet over one of the doors in the upper corridor over- 
 looking the Patio de Honor , he was also imprisoned in the palacio at one 
 time. 
 
 Tho Cathedral (PI. H, 4; comp, the accompanying plan) is open all 
 day till the A ve Maria (la Oracion ), but the numerous masses often inter- 
 fere with the visitor’s inspection, especially of the altars and choir. That 
 this interference is not one-sided is shown by the placards, in Spanish 
 and English, to be noted on the doors of the entrances, i. e., “No visitors 
 are allowed during divine services. The hours fixed for visiting the 
 Cathedral are from 10.30 a. m. to 12.30 p. m. No person is in any way 
 whatever authorized to ask for or receive fees of any kind.” While this 
 notice need not in any way conflict with a quiet inspection of the Cathedral, 
 the visitor will get a better return for his time if he can plan to accede to 
 the requirements. The discreet traveller who tactfully avoids molesting 
 the worshippers during services will be let alone bv all but the snooping 
 be gg ars — who will at once retire if threatened with exposure. Travellers 
 are cautioned to be on their guard against pickpockets ( rateros , comp. 
 
 1 The wording on this tablet is misleading. Juarez occupied a suite of 
 apartments (located here) in the present palacio when he died. 
 
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Cathedral. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42 . Route. 273 
 
 p. Ixvii), especially female, and to avoid conversation with individuals 
 sometimes met with in the towers, and who seem anxious to point out the 
 sights of the city. Certain of the alleged guides, who accost one within 
 and without the building, are noteworthy for windy phraseology and 
 misinformation. Fees are unnecessary unless the sacristdn is asked to 
 unveil pictures or altars, or to conduct the traveller to the Pequeha Ca- 
 pilla del Cabildo (p. 287) behind the sacristy, where Murillo’s Madonna 
 is kept. Alms-boxes will be found in conspicuous places near the chapels. 
 The fact that alms-solicitors are not permitted by the ch. authorities to 
 molest the visiting stranger with their importunities is enough to suggest 
 to the generous-minded that a small offering slipped into one of the boxes 
 por el amor de Dios, and for the upkeep of His temple, is in line with duty 
 and Christianity. 
 
 The air in the Cathedral is usually several degrees colder (and infinitely 
 older) than the outer air, and visitors are cautioned against the evil 
 effects of too abrupt a change. Men must remove their hats on entering, 
 and if this is done when one is perspiring the result might be a cold, 
 which at this altitude easily develops into pneumonia. If one is over- 
 heated, the best plan is to select a sunny seat in the Zocalo (p. 265), and 
 sit there for a few moments and study the fine exterior of the Cathedral, 
 and the variegated throng which passes continually in review before it. 
 
 Fortunately one can now get an unobstructed view of the fine but time- 
 stained facade, the tall eucalyptus trees which so effectually masked it for 
 so many years having been destroyed in 1921 — by revolutionists who 
 felled them in order to be able better to bombard the palacio and its de- 
 fenders. The building is best entered from the S., or by the W. entrance 
 from the garden flanking its side. Hurried visitors should see the Capilla 
 de los Santos Reyes (p. 280), the Coro (p. 281), the Sacristy and the 
 Pequerla Capilla del Cabildo (p. 287), the Capilla de las Reliquias (p. 287), 
 the Claveria (p.285) and the Sagrario Metropolitans (p. 290). If time 
 permits, the towers should be ascended for the sake of the view. The 
 group of rooms at the N.-W. corner of the edifice and yard are the offices 
 (administration) of the governors of the Cathedral. No stranger in the 
 city should fail to visit the Cathedral if he finds himself near it on dias de 
 fiesta. 
 
 The Cathedral ( La Catedral ), consecrated as the Church 
 of the Asuncion de Maria Santisima and known as the Holy 
 Metropolitan Church of Mexico , is the largest and most impos- 
 ing church edifice in the Republic, and is said to be the 
 largest on the continent. The general effect is very impressive. 
 Massiveness and grandeza are its distinctive qualities; many 
 of the smaller churches being more graceful and elegant. The 
 ignorant and the credulous believe that its giant, rectangular 
 bulk is swung on huge chains to prevent its demolition by 
 earthquakes. Historians say the foundation is composed al- 
 most entirely of sculptured Indian images, and of the re- 
 mains of what once formed the body of the great Aztec 
 teocalli that stood near. 
 
 The Cathedral is a gigantic structure of basalt and gray 
 sandstone, with very thick walls. It is a treasury of religious 
 moment and historical associations, facing the Plaza Mayor t 
 and occupying the entire north side. It is cruciform, with a 
 nave and two aisles which gradually decrease in height from 
 the middle toward the outer wall. Many massive buttresses, 
 quaint gargoyles, cornices, friezes, and basso-relievos are sal- 
 ient features. The edifice stands upon a wide platform about 
 two feet high and 460 ft. broad. Exclusive of the walls it 
 
274 Route 42. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Cathedral. 
 
 measures 387 ft. from N. to S.; 177 ft. from E. to W., and has 
 an interior height of 179 ft. Its tall but well-proportioned 
 twin towers rise 203 ft. above the atrium, which is reached 
 by six low steps. This atrium is a huge, dreary expanse, un- 
 kempt, usually overgrown with grass, and in places paved 
 with stone slabs and cobbles. The Cathedral presents striking 
 peculiarities in the bell-shaped domes of the towers, the heavy 
 reversed consoles, and in other ways. As the mother church 
 of New Spain, and the head of the Holy Catholic Church in 
 Mexico, it is worth careful study. The time-stained Sagrario 
 (seep. 290), with its interesting Churrigueresque facade, joins 
 it on the right. 
 
 Historical Sketch. The first Christian church in Mexico 
 was erected by the Spaniards a little to the S.-W. of the great 
 Aztec teocalli of Tlaloc-Huitzilopochtli (mentioned at p. clxvii) . 
 Much of the debris of this great pagan sanctuary was used 
 as building stone for the new structure. It was completed in 
 1525 and was called the Iglesia Mayor , or large church. Two 
 years later Pope Clement VII established the Bishopric of 
 New Spain, appointing (at the instigation of Charles V) 
 Fray Juan de Zumdrraqa (comp. p. 398), who reached Mexico 
 in 1528 and immediately began ecclesiastical work under the 
 title of Bishop Elect and Protector of the Indians. He was 
 confirmed in his position by a Papal Bull of Sept. 2, 1530, 
 and thereafter this first ch. became the See and was known as 
 the Cathedral. Pope Paul III established the Archbishopric 
 of Mexico, Jan. 31, 1535, and called the Cathedral the Metro- 
 politan Church. In 1573 Philip II secured permission from 
 the Pope to demolish the primitive ch. and to erect on the 
 site a finer Cathedral. In order to preserve the iglesia mayor 
 intact until the new one could be completed, land was bought 
 (from the Franciscan Friars, for 40 pesos) some distance to 
 the northward: the site of the first Roman Catholic church 
 in Mexico, therefore, is the atrium of the present Cathedral. 
 The first design was made by Alonso Perez de Castaneda., royal 
 master of architecture, and the corner-stone was laid in 1573. 
 While the foundation was under construction another (modi- 
 fied) plan was drawn by Juan Gomez de Mora , architect to 
 Philip III, and this was sent over under the royal seal with 
 instructions to use it. Work on the edifice was frequently in- 
 terrupted; the great inundation of 1629 threatened the entire 
 fabric. It was not until 1667 that it wsls completed and in- 
 augurated. Pedro de Arrieta, master of architecture for the 
 entire kingdom of New Spain, was in charge of construction 
 when it was completed. 
 
 The estimated cost of the present church was 81,752,000, ex- 
 clusive of the towers, which were completed in 1791 and are 
 said to have cost 8190,000. When the Cathedral was inaugu- 
 rated many wealthy Spaniards contributed to its interior 
 
Cathedral. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42 . Route. 275 
 
 adornment; the ornaments of gold and silver presented were 
 said to be worth $1,850,000. A chalice covered with gems 
 and valued at $300,000 was later given by the rich miner, 
 Joseph Le Borde (comp. p. 441), who, it is said, found himself 
 once in financial straits and asked for the return of this gift, 
 but received instead $100,000. This chalice, along with other 
 immense treasure, is believed to have been sequestrated by 
 the Juarez Government soon after the passage of the Reform 
 Laws. The credulous believe that these transcendental laws 
 did not catch the clergy entirely unprepared, and that vast 
 treasure remains hidden in the thick walls of the Cathedral. 
 
 “The piecemeal construction of the great building, covering as it did a 
 period of nearly seven generations, has naturally embodied various irreg- 
 ularities that produce a certain lack of unitary effect in the impression 
 made by the huge mass. As a whole, notwithstanding these shortcom- 
 ings, the total effect is one of magnificence, of grandeur, of splendid mass 
 and lordly superiority, mastering its environment by right of design. 
 With its strong contrasts of rich decorative features and its achievement 
 of certain ends of balance and proportion by arbitrary and unconven- 
 tional means, it is a characteristic example of Spanish Renaissance.” 
 (Sylvester Baxter.) 
 
 Despite the lamentable mutilations, and the indecorous 
 renovations (so called), which in times past have been per- 
 mitted in the Cathedral, it still retains an imposing dignity 
 and charm — the latter manifest even to those who have 
 seen the gigantic and splendid Christian and pagan temples 
 of Europe and the Orient. Its mediaeval flavor is very attract- 
 ive and its historical value — recalling as it does the most 
 brilliant epoch of Spanish Colonial and Vice-regal days — ■ 
 never fades. Though now but a simulacrum of what it was in 
 pre-reforma days, a fairly accurate idea of its old-time splen- 
 dor may be obtained from the Churrigueresque altars ; and an 
 inkling of its wealth of paintings from the few chance sur- 
 vivors still to be seen. Mexicans refer to it lovingly (and rather 
 extravagantly) as the “ Mexican St. Peter’s,” and while the ex- 
 perienced traveller will know better whether or not the com- 
 parison is justifiable, and whether it is or is not overrated, 
 few will deny that in almost every respect it is worthy to be 
 ranked among the noblest churches of America. 
 
 The Facade ( la fachada ) is a weather-beaten but still at- 
 tractive example of mediaeval architecture — a blend of 
 several orders, Ionic, Doric, and Corinthian. The combina- 
 tion of gray sandstone and white marble produces a pleasing 
 contrast. The fine central group of sculpture, the Three Vir- 
 tues, Fe,-Esperanza y Caridad, is by Manuel Tolsa. Ponderous 
 buttresses divide the S. fagade (independent of the Sagrario) 
 into three portals, above which are basso-relievos represent- 
 ing (at the 1.) Peter receiving the Keys; (at the r. ) Peter at 
 the Helm, and (in the centre), the Assumption of the Virgin. 
 The Latin inscription over the central entrance (originally 
 
276 Route 42. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Cathedral. 
 
 called La Puerta del Perdon — door of pardon) bears the 
 date 1672, and is to the effect that the structure was com- 
 pleted in the reign of the Spanish King Carlos II. There are 
 seven entrances — three in front, facing the S., two in the 
 transepts, and two in the rear opening on to the Calle de 
 Santa Teresa. The quaint inscription (in Spanish) over the 
 E. entrance tells that “this royal and spacious entrance ( real 
 y espaciosa portada) was finished Aug. o, 1688, during the 
 reign of King Carlos 11 and the Viceroy Don Melchor Porto - 
 carrero Lazo de la Bega , Conde de la Moncloba , and was recon- 
 structed in 1804.” A like inscription above the entrance to the 
 W. transept sets forth that it was begun Aug. 27, 1688, and 
 completed Oct. 8, 1689. The visitor should walk quite around 
 the Cathedral in order to examine the quaint architecture and 
 massive bulk of the structure. Between the t’wo rear exits 
 (which give on to the l a Calle de Santa Teresa) is a curious 
 niche with a bas-relief of the Lamb of the Apocalypse (El 
 cordero del Apocalipsis ) , beneath which runs a quaint Latin 
 inscription, Laudate Dominum omnes gentes. 
 
 The cross at the S.-E. angle of the atrium is a monolith, and 
 was found in 1648 by the Archbishop Mahozca, overthrown 
 and buried in the cemetery of the village of Tepeapulco, so 
 he ordered it brought to the capital. The companion piece, 
 in the S.-W. corner, came from the old ch. of San Pedro y San 
 Pablo and was altered to resemble the Cruz de M ahozca. 
 
 The N. w r all and the cimborio above the high altar were 
 badly cracked by the earthquake of April, 1907. 
 
 The Twin Towers (torres) are in tw'O divisions, the lower 
 of the Doric order, the upper Ionic, finished in a wealth of 
 architectural details. “A strikingly attractive feature of the 
 towers is the design of the third story, formed by the octagonal 
 base of the bell-shaped domes enclosed wfithin a rectangular 
 pavilion-like structure, the latter tied to the inner portion by 
 a narrow band around the middle of each part, thus serving 
 a purpose both constructional and decorative.” At the base 
 of the tower domes are graceful statues of the Doctors of the 
 Church, and of Patriarchs of the Monastic Orders (the wor ; 
 of the Puebla sculptor, Zacarias Cora), so placed that two face 
 each of the cardinal points. Each tow T er is used as a belfry 
 (campanario) and is surmounted by a huge stone cross. A 
 family of bell-ringers (campaneros) live high up in the belfry of 
 the E. tower, and thus occupy one of the airiest and healthiest 
 apartments in the city. 
 
 The largest bell is Santa Maria de Guadalupe , in the W. 
 tow r er. It was cast in Tacubaya by a Spanish artisan, Salvador 
 de la Vega, in 1792; and on March 8 was placed at the foot of 
 the tower, blessed by the Archbishop Alonso Nunez de Haro 
 y Peralta, and dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe. This bell 
 (campana) is 10 ft. across at the base, 16£ ft. high, weighs 
 
Cathedral. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 48. Route. 277 
 
 27,000 lbs. and cost $10,400. The clapper ( golpeador ) is 8 ft. 
 long and weighs 500 lbs. The workmen were from March 13 
 to April 12 raising the ponderous mass of metal to its place, 
 and despite the impatience of the populace to hear the bell, 
 it was not until June 7 ( Dia de Corpus) that its grave, sweet 
 and penetrating tones floated above the one-time Aztec capi- 
 tal. On clear days the sound may be heard 6 miles away. 
 
 A smaller bell in the same tower, called Santo Angel de la 
 Guarda — Holy Guardian Angel — -weighs 1,500 lbs. It was 
 blessed in Tacubaya Mch. 1, 1793, by Doctor Gregorio Omana , 
 Bishop of Oaxaca, and on the 9th of the same month was 
 raised to its place. Its unusually harmonious notes recall a 
 certain bell in the Campanile at Florence, and they were first 
 heard in Mexico March 27, 1793, on Holy Wednesday. The 
 third bell in the same tower, San Salvador , was consecrated 
 by Don Andres Llanos de Valdez , Bishop of Monterey, and 
 was first rung in Mexico at noon on Dec. 11, 1792. It weighs 
 3,040 lbs. 
 
 Doha Maria , the largest bell in the E. tower, was cast in 
 Mexico City in 1754, weighs 7,500 lbs., and was one of the 
 bells used in the temporary structure before the tower was 
 completed. Note the peculiar manner of hanging the bells. 
 When the bells ring at midday many of the natives in different 
 parts of the city doff their hats. Clerks, too, drop their work 
 as if the contact burned them, and the streets are soon filled 
 with hurrying humanity bound homeward for luncheon. 
 
 At least one of the towers should be ascended if only for 
 the sake of the view, which is perhaps the finest in the Valley 
 of Mexico. One does not have to possess the agility of a 
 steeplejack to reach the belfry. A caracol stair, whose en- 
 trance is at the outside base of the E. tower, leads to the 
 roof and thence to the campanario. We ascend the narrow 
 stair, pull the string hanging near a closed door, which is 
 opened from above. A small fee (25 c.) is customary. 
 
 The view is beguiling. Chapultepec is easily discernible at 
 the W.; the tiled domes of many churches glisten in the fore- 
 ground ; the magnificent peaks of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl 
 gleam in the S.-E., and the huge wall of volcanic hills which hem 
 in the valley on the S. and W. is seen to great advantage. 
 To the E. are the shallow lakes, described at p. 247, and the 
 alkaline plains which form their shores. With a good glass 
 one may pick out the microscopic towns which flank the slopes 
 of Ajusco, and perchance note railway trains gliding up and 
 down the mountain sides. 
 
 The black spot at the W. base of the W. tower marks the 
 place where the Aztec Calendar Stone (comp. p. 299) remained 
 embedded for many years. Certain of the sculptured relics 
 in the Hall of the Monoliths, at the National Museum, were 
 dug up from about the base of the tower. 
 
278 Route 42 . 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Cathedral. 
 
 The Doric Interior, with its traces of Gothic enlivened by 
 enrichments from many orders, was renovated in 1906; the 
 walls and the 20 massive and beautifully proportioned pillars, 
 including those attached to the walls, — composed of four 
 engaged columns of the Doric order, — were carefully scraped 
 and cleaned, hence the air of newness. The work of renovation 
 extended over two years. “It is notable that the flutings of 
 these columns are continued through the arches — also a 
 feature of the sagrario interior and likewise of the Puebla 
 Cathedral. The structure shows three diverse types of vaulting : 
 the cloister form, with Gothic-like ribs in the chapel of the 
 sacristy; in the aisles, the domed form, with pendentives; 
 and the nave and transept with barrel-arched form — medio - 
 cation, or half-canon, in Spanish phrase — and lunettes. 
 The effect of the interior is almost severe, and the tones of 
 gray and white conveyed by the natural color of the stone and 
 the bare surfaces of the walls and ceilings give an impression 
 that would be one of baldness were it not offset by a sense of 
 beautiful proportions. Remarking the elegant simplicity of 
 ornament, skilfully balanced by the richness of the Churri - 
 gueresque retables, Revilla says: 1 These retables and the pre- 
 dominance of vertical lines in construction — which without 
 reaching the extreme of the Gothic style are sufficient to give 
 the impress of a Christian character — prevent that frigidity 
 of effect that marks other temples built in the Greco-Roman 
 style and produces in the soul a sentiment of religious rever- 
 ence.’” 
 
 The wooden floor — an immense sounding-board — imparts 
 a mediaeval aspect, at variance with the richly decorated coro 
 and the sumptuous high altar. This floor is said to cover a 
 beautiful tiled floor which has sunk into the soft ground far 
 below the present one. 
 
 The general view of the interior is broken by the obtrusive 
 choir, which, in accordance with Spanish custom, occupies 
 the middle of the nave. Two bays are devoted to it, and the 
 three following are given over to the crujia, or passageway, 
 and the high altar. Seven small chapels — some of which 
 have been “ terribly restored ” and almost all of which have 
 been renamed — open on to each of the side aisles. Not all 
 of them are worth a close inspection. Above the cornices 174 
 windows diffuse a moderate light. The central arches form 
 a Latin cross. At the square ends of the transepts are en- 
 trances flanked within by huge cedar-wood caticeles which, 
 at the time of the rage for selling church antiquities, replaced 
 the splendidly carved, mahogany structures of the olden 
 times. Between these two entrances rises the tall dome, 
 or cimhorio, sometimes adorned with streamers in the national 
 colors — emblematic of the power of the State over the 
 Church. The interior is covered with a host of figures forming 
 
Cathedral. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42 . Route. 279 
 
 an Assumption , painted in 1810. The colors are faded and 
 moisture has ruined the figures of some of the saints and 
 angels. 
 
 Tradition has it that for many years alms were solicited for the decora- 
 tion of this dome, but they came in slowly. Finally prayers were put up, 
 and soon thereafter an alleged miraculous sack of silver pesos was dis- 
 covered in one of the chapels. Coincidently a friar had a revelation that 
 the money had been deposited by the Virgin for the intended purpose, 
 
 1 and work was immediately begun. The name of the painter is unrecorded 
 I in the church records. 
 
 Many confessionals (said to be of teak) are scattered 
 through the vast edifice, while near certain of the chapels a 
 petty commerce is carried on in photographs of santos, pseudo- 
 relics, medallions and whatnot. Beggars sidle up to strangers 
 and solicit alms (which is not permitted in the Cathedral), but 
 as a rule the stranger is spared the annoying attentions of the 
 beadle and his contribution-box, so frequently in evidence in 
 European churches. 
 
 The Presbiterio, Cipres, or Altar Mayor (High Altar), 
 in the second square of the nave, a massive and tasteless 
 structure linked to the Coro by two lines of tombac railing 
 (referred to at p. 281), is of granite adorned with stucco, and 
 was completed in 1850 after designs drawn by the Spanish 
 architect Lorenzo Hidalgo. The base is of a gray granite 
 known in Mexico as chiluca. Rising from it are green mala- 
 chite-like pillars with gilt capitals and bases which support a 
 superstructure crowned in turn by a group representing the 
 Assumption of the Virgin (the work of Jose Maria Miranda ), 
 which required six months to construct and which cost, ac- 
 cording to the ch. records, some three thousand pesos. The 
 statues are of saints and founders of religious orders, and are 
 the work of Terrazas and Miranda. The Virgin of Guadalupe , 
 of Los Remedios, of La Asuncion and others, are among the 
 figures. The tombac railing which encloses the tabernaculo 
 is unpolished, and the dingy and faded carpet is quite in 
 keeping with the general air of tawdriness. Perhaps the most 
 attractive fitments are the fire-gilt candelabra which stand 
 in rows before the altar. The structure itself, with the several 
 interior parts, reminds the observer of one of those Chinese 
 carved and perforated ivory balls with a number of minor 
 balls inside. All the colors of the spectrum have been drawn 
 upon for decorations. 
 
 “Its wholly incongruous design [says Mr. Baxter ] makes an unspeak- 
 able discord in the decoration of the Cathedral. The former high altar 
 of Baibas must have been a worthy pendant of the chapel of Los Reyes. 
 The destruction of the original high altar is the more to be regretted, 
 since there is to be seen in Mexico to-day no remaining example of the 
 Churrigueresque as employed in the design of a high altar that stands 
 free, those that exist being in chancels, with reredos built against the 
 wall.” 
 
280 Route J$. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Cathedral. 
 
 
 The twenty jasper and agate columns which enclosed the 
 old altar were formerly one of the sights of the Cathedral. 
 Relics of this quaint and massive structure are the two some- 
 what clumsy onyx pulpits ( tribunas ) which stand at the 
 S.-E. and W. corners of the presbiterio. 
 
 The Altar de los Reyes (sometimes called Capilla de los 
 Santos Reyes , because it is a replica of a chapel in the Seville 
 Cathedral where certain of the Spanish kings are buried) is 
 directly in the rear of the altar mayor and faces the pasillo 
 which leads from the E. to the W. side of the Cathedral. It 
 is a resplendent and highly interesting capilla — the finest in 
 the church — and was constructed after the style of Chur- 
 riguera , by the Sevillan architect, Geronimo Baibas , who came 
 over expressly to do this work, and also the corresponding 
 altars for the Puebla (p. 512) Cathedral. Although it was 
 begun in 1718 it was not entirely completed until 1837. 
 
 “Thus decorated [says Mr. Baxter ] the apse has the effect of a lofty 
 grotto heavily encrusted with gold in every part, and glittering with 
 jewels — all this as a regal environment for a throng of sacred figures, 
 in the round or in high relief and almost animate in their brilliant color- 
 ings; a host of saints, angels and cherubs assembled in joyous adoration 
 for the miraculous scenes enacted in the paintings which they surround. 
 Of these paintings there are 20 — all of them the work of the famous 
 Mexican artist Jose Rodriguez Juarez (comp. p. cl). The central can- 
 vas, just above the altar, The Adoration of the Kings ( Adoracion de los 
 Reyes Magos), is regarded as his masterpiece. The still larger painting 
 above, an Assumption, is not so successful, the figures not having been 
 drawn with sufficient reference to their elevated positions.” 
 
 The Virgen de la Expectation, the central figure of the altar, 
 was a gift to the ch. by the Marquesa de Castahiza , who, to 
 ensure the cult of the image, willed a large sum of money to 
 the Cathedral. Before the Reform Laws the fiestas celebrated 
 in this Virgin’s honor were unusually gorgeous and spectacular. 
 
 In the sides of the chapel, which is consecrated to the 
 Virgin, are altars dedicated to San Luis Rey de Francia, San 
 Luis Gonzaga , Santa Rosalia and Santa Rosa de Lima. Relics 
 of these saints are enshrined within. Formerly each altar 
 possessed a massive silver image of its respective patron, but 
 since their disappearance (consequent to the Reform Laws) 
 the niches occupied by them have been closed. A beautiful 
 ivory Cristo on a cross with heavy silver adornments was one 
 of the finest relics of this chapel before the sequestration of 
 the ch. property. Certain of the early Spanish viceroys are 
 buried here, and for years the heads of the patriots Hidalgo , 
 Allende, Aldama and Jimenez were kept in the crypt, whence 
 they were transferred (in 1896) to the Capilla de San Jose. 
 The chapel is reached by a flight of 5 stone steps which lead 
 up from the ambulatory. No altar in the Cathedral makes a 
 stronger impression of dignity and solemnity. The dome above 
 this spot was practically reconstructed in 1908. 
 
Cathedral. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route. 281 
 
 The Choir (el Coro), a huge quadrilateral structure twice as 
 long as it is wide, whose position at the south end of the nave 
 mars greatly the interior view of the Cathedral, is backed 
 by a heavy wall of masonry and one of the finest chapels 
 (La Camilla del Per don) in the church. Side walls of stone 
 surmounted by an overhang of the same material, chiselled 
 in angelic forms, shut it off from the aisles. It is closed in front 
 by a magnificent tombac grill, topped by three crosses, the 
 whole forming an allegory representing the crucified Saviour 
 and the two thieves. This grill is of the same material as the 
 railing which connects the coro with the presbiterio, and ex- 
 tends clear around the latter. It is 45 ft. long, 25 ft. high, 
 is said to weigh 26 tons, and came (in May, 1730) from the 
 Portuguese settlement of Macao, in southern China. It was 
 a gift to the Cathedral by the Duke of Albuquerque, then 
 Viceroy. Surmounting the railing (barandal) are 52 figurines 
 which act as candelabra. According to the church records this 
 is a special tombac 1 and is a combination of gold, silver and 
 copper; the whole is said to have cost $1,500,000 — which 
 should be taken with a grain of salt. 
 
 Formerly a museum of sculptured wood and beautiful 
 paintings, the coro is still attractive, and is celebrated for its 
 magnificent silleria, a delicate and beautiful piece of work- 
 manship, a mingling of the Moorish and the Plateresque styles, 
 and indubitably the finest thing in the enclosure. There are 
 59 seats in the upper row (the sellia) and 20 in the lower (the 
 subsellia), each beneath a carved and gilded santo in low 
 relief. The intricacy and richness of the labyrinthine carving 
 are noteworthy, and the whole forms a splendid work of art 
 but slightly inferior to some of the fine sillerias of the cathe- 
 drals of Spain. 
 
 The large painting at the head of the choir, against the back 
 of the altar del perdon, is a scene from the Apocalypse, the 
 work of Juan Correa. In the centre, immediately above it 
 (right over the archbishop’s seat), is a Madonna’s head said 
 to have been painted by Murillo; the gilded frame is very 
 elaborate and albeit the picture may be considered of doubt- 
 ful parentage, the church authorities believe it is a master- 
 piece. The tall wood lectern with its many small carved ivory 
 figurines of saints, and its inlaid cross with an ivory figure 
 of Christ crucified, is worth looking at. 
 
 A wood missal-stand now serves in place of the massive 
 silver structure which disappeared coincident with the passage 
 of the Reform Laws. Striking features of this superb choir 
 are the two great organs (organos) in unvarnished cases of 
 beautifully carved cedar-wood, surmounted by orchestras of 
 
 1 Tombac, or lumbago , is an alloy of copper or zinc, or a species of brass 
 with an excess of zinc. When arsenic is added, it is white tombac. 
 
282 Route S&. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Cathedral. 
 
 angels. They date from 1776 and are of European origin: 
 the palisadoes of 3,500 pipes produce splendid harmonies. 
 The gilded superstructures are not without interest ; likewise 
 the elaborate bronze balconies on the pillars at the corners, 
 with their supporting figures and intricate sculptures ( escul - 
 turas). At the r. and 1. of the side entrance to the coro on the 
 E. (immediately opposite the Capilla de Nuestra Sehora de 
 Guadalupe ) are two paintings (the work of Francisco Martinez , 
 in 1736) depicting episodes in the life and martyrdom of San 
 Lorenzo (comp. p. 332). The middle picture, above the door, 
 is of St. Peter. Against the outer wall of the coro are two 
 paintings (by Juan Correa , in 1704) representing Souls in 
 Purgatory and San Judas Tadeo. 
 
 Two fine Churrigueresque altars which for many years stood 
 against the side walls of the choir were removed in 1907, thus 
 allowing for the widening (by several feet) of the E. and W. aisles. 
 
 The cumbersome onyx pulpit near the barandal, between 
 the coro and the high altar, is a companion piece to others 
 at the presbiterio. 
 
 The Altar del Perdon, one of the most frequented and 
 popular in the Cathedral, an imposing structure of carved 
 and gilded wood in the Churrigueresque style, occupies the 
 tras-coro and faces the S. entrance. The interest of the tourist 
 will centre in the two pictures which form the principal fea- 
 tures; the lower one (in a silver frame) a Holy Family show- 
 ing the Virgin mother with the Christ child in her arms, the 
 upper one a San Sebastian. The ch. officials claim that the 
 painting of the Virgin is done on wood, a door to a prison cell, 
 and to support the theory they will point out the marks of 
 ancient hinges, beneath the paint. At certain hours in the 
 morning a beam of light from one of the high windows falls 
 athwart this picture and produces a very striking effect. 
 
 Mr. Baxter writes: “There are two very pleasing legends about the 
 two principal paintings of this altar. One is based upon a belief that the 
 large painting of the Virgin is the picture that the Flemish painter 
 Pereyns was condemned to paint when tried for heresy, and the other 
 relates that the San Sebastian above is the work of a famous woman 
 painter, ‘ La Zumaya.’ of whom a most romantic story is told by Cayetano 
 Cabrera in his Escuao de Armas de Mexico . to the effect that she mar- 
 ried Baltazar de Echave, the Elder, and taught him his art. In fact, 
 however, both pictures bear every evidence of being the work of the 
 elder Echave himself. It was a ‘Merced’ (Our Lady of Mercy) that 
 Pereyns was condemned to paint, and at that time neither this altar nor 
 even the Cathedral itself was in existence, for it was in the period of the 
 old Cathedral; moreover, this Virgin is not a ‘Merced’ but a ‘Candelaria.’ 
 As to the legend of La Zumava, the eminent scholar. Don Jose M. de 
 Agreda, has shown very conclusively that there never was such a painter. 
 The elder Echave was twice married and the names of his wives were 
 found in the records of the Sagrario by Senor Agreda. but neither was 
 named Zumaya. The story doubtless arose from a confusion between the 
 name of the birthplace of Echave, the Biscayan town of Zumaya, and 
 that of the painter, Francisco Zumaya, who figured at the trial of his 
 friend Pereyns.” (Comp. p. cxlv.) 
 
 The polychrome figures at this altar are uninteresting. 
 
Cathedral . 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route . 283 
 
 We begin our detailed description of the Cathedral at 
 
 La Camilla de San Miguel (St. Michael), known also as La C. 
 de los Santos Angeles (holy angels), the 1st on the 1. as we enter 
 through the S. or main door. The light which filters through 
 the iron grill at the back is too dim to permit of a detailed in- 
 spection of the pictures and altars. Of the latter there are 
 I three, all huge masses of carved, gilded and strikingly hand- 
 some specimens' of the style of Churriguera adapted from a 
 I Baroque ground. The 16 paintings, most of which represent 
 scenes in the life of the saint, are attributed to Juan Correa , who 
 painted many other pictures for the Cathedral. Formerly this 
 chapel was noted for its massive silver lamps and rich silver 
 ornaments, which latter to the value of fifty thousand or more 
 pesos were removed and melted by Antonio Lopez de Santa 
 Anna during his bootless war with the United States. The 
 seven polychrome statues of saints are mediocre. Like many 
 of the other chapels in this ch., this one is railed off from the 
 main body by a tall wood grill polished by the hands of many 
 devotees. 
 
 The Altar de Anima, the 2d chapel on the 1., with a score 
 or more mediocre pictures, is dark and uninteresting. The 
 central figure is a crucified Christ. The colored glass picture 
 of the Virgin of Guadalupe is modern. 
 
 La Capilla del Sehor San Jose , 3d on the 1., is chiefly note- 
 worthy for the altar let into the N. wall, with a crystal urn 
 containing the heads of the patriots Hidalgo, Allende, Aldama 
 and Jimenez. Many faded wreaths, ribbons and artificial flowers 
 embellish the altar. 
 
 La Capilla de Nuestra Sehor a de la Soledad, 4 th on the 1., was 
 dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Aug. 15, 1657, during the reign 
 of the Viceroy Francisco Fernandez de la Cueva, Duke of 
 Albuquerque. A curious bit of history attaches thereto. 
 
 “ Albuquerque assisted at the festivals of the churches and made 
 liberal contributions toward the completion of the Cathedral. His re- 
 ligious zeal well-nigh cost him his life. It was his custom each afternoon 
 to pay a visit to the Cathedral, then in course of completion, in order to 
 inspect the progress made during the day, and afterwards to attend 
 vespers in one of the chapels. While kneeling at prayer (in this chapel) 
 on the evening of the 12th of March, 1660, a soldier named Manuel 
 Ledesma y Robles entered the chapel and gave him several blows with the 
 flat of his sword. The Viceroy sprang to his feet, and placing the prie-dieu 
 between himself and his assailant, meanwhile clutching with his right 
 hand at his sword, exclaimed, ‘What mean you?’ ‘To kill you,’ was the 
 answer. At that moment the treasurer of the Cathedral came to the 
 Duke’s assistance and was soon followed by others. The would-be assas- 
 sin was overpowered, and the Duke, after finishing his devotions, returned 
 to his palace. A trial was held the same evening by the military auditor, 
 but considering the grave character of the crime, the audiencia ordered 
 that the prisoner be brought before their court. . . . There is little doubt 
 the man’s mind was deranged; he could easily have killed the Viceroy 
 had he been so disposed ; but as it was a great man who had been fright- 
 ened, his judges were determined not to recognize the fact — and no time 
 
2S4 Route 42 . 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Cathedral. 
 
 was granted him to prepare his defence. At seven the next morning 
 the verdict was rendered; the criminal was condemned to be dragged 
 through the streets, and thence taken to the gibbet. His head and right 
 hand were to be cut off and exposed, the former on the main square, the 
 latter, together with his sword, in front of the door of the Cathedral where 
 the crime had been committed. Three hours later the tribunals and 
 loyal inhabitants of Mexico had the satisfaction of witnessing the execu- 
 tion of the sentence, the corpse, feet upwards, remaining exhibited on the 
 gallows till late in the afternoon.” (Bancroft, History of Mexico, vol. iii, 
 p. 149.) 
 
 The gilded and carved wood altars are among the finest in 
 the Cathedral. The paintings, which represent scenes in the 
 life of Christ and the Virgin, are attributed to Herrera. The 
 chapel has always been the chosen one of the workmen in and 
 about the Cathedral, who know it as La Capilla de los Obreros , 
 or Chapel of the Workmen. 
 
 La CapiUa del Sen or del Buen Despacho, 5th on the 1., is so 
 called for the life-size figure of Christ which stands in the centre 
 of the main altar. It is over-decorated, and the polychrome 
 figures in high relief are tawdry. The quaint old Spanish iron 
 chest, just without the railing, makes a sizable contribution- 
 box, but the sound given forth from a piece of silver dropped 
 into it indicates that it is far from empty. 
 
 Adjacent to this chapel is the huge cancel and exit to the 
 garden which flanks the Cathedral on the W. Following this is 
 
 La Capilla de Nuestra Senora de los Dolores, 6th on the 1., 
 formerly the C. de la Santa Cena (holy supper) because for cen- 
 turies it was under the special protection of the Arch-cofrater- 
 nityof the Holy Sacrament and because it had for its patron 
 the mystery of the Eucharist. The crucifix of the archico - 
 fradia, which w T as placed here with great solemnity June 14, 
 1656, occupies the small glass case below^ the image of the 
 Virgin of Dolores, wiiich in turn was once the property of 
 Maximilian. The beautiful painting of the Last Supper, now 
 in the Claveria , used to hang in this chapel. Next in fine with 
 this (and 7th) is 
 
 La Capilla de San Felipe de Jesus , Mexico’s Protomartyr 
 and the Patron Saint of New^ Spain (see p. 325). It is perhaps 
 the most venerated in the Cathedral. A number of relics of 
 the saint are preserved here, along with an urn containing 
 the heart of General Bustamante. Several archbishops and 
 other notables are buried beneath the floor. In 1838 an altar 
 in the r. wall was removed to provide a sepulchre for the ashes j 
 of Agustin de Iturbide, which are preserved in a wooden urn 
 on which is this inscription: “Agustin de Iturbide, Author of 
 Mexican Independence. Compatriot, w'eep for him. Stranger, 
 admire him. This monument holds the ashes of a hero. His 
 soul rests in the bosom of God ” ; — a somewdiat high-sounding 
 and not very apposite inscription, in view T of the facts. The 
 several paintings (unsigned) represent scenes in the life and 
 martyrdom of San Felipe. The altar at the 1. is dedicated to 
 
Cathedral. MEXICO CITY 4% Route. 285 
 
 Santa Rosa de Lima , the first American-born female saint of 
 the Catholic Church. 
 
 Santa Rosa de Lima (born in Lima, Peru, in 1585, died 1617, canonized 
 1671) is often seen pictured in the Mexican churches. The favorite atti- 
 tude is that of a nun crowned with roses, in a halo of light, with birds in 
 her hand and in the air about her, and a Christ cn the Cross held up to her 
 lips. “ At an early age she became an admirer and follower of the austere 
 Saint Catherine of Siena and gave herself up unreservedly to acts of 
 penance and charity. While she walked among the bitter herbs and 
 wooden crosses with which she planted her garden, she one day ex- 
 claimed ‘ O! all ye green things of the earth, bless ye the Lord.’ Suddenly 
 the neighboring trees began to shiver and clash their leaves together, and 
 the stately poplars bowed their heads and reverently bent them until 
 they touched the ground. 
 
 “ One spring a little bird built its nest in a mimosa tree near the cottage 
 where the saint dwelt. Passing the tree during a morning walk she was 
 greeted by a joyous song so clear and sweet that she ceased her medita- 
 tions and listened. Presently it paused. Then, upon the spur of the mo- 
 ment, inspired by the exultant tones of the happy creature, she impro- 
 vised some appropriate Spanish verses and sang them in reply. When 
 she had finished the bird burst forth in song again, and for an hour there 
 in the cool garden shade they sang and listened alternately.” In the 
 mellow, half-forgotten annals of convent and church Santa Rosa is re- 
 garded as the sweetest of all the saintly characters of ancient times. 
 
 Near the centre of this altar there hung formerly a heavy 
 silver lamp whose flame burned continuously ; with many other 
 silver ornaments it was confiscated in 1817 by Santa Anna, 
 who levied a heavy contribution on the ch. to aid him in his 
 misguided war with the United States. 
 
 Immediately outside the railing of the chapel is the bap- 
 tismal font wherein, according to the inscription, “The stain 
 of the original sin was removed from the infant San Felipe de 
 Jesus.” The font is of black granite, some three feet in dia- 
 meter, w T ith a carved wood top, dome-shaped. On the wood 
 railing, near the top, is the inscription: “The glorious martyr, 
 San Felipe de Jesus, a native of this very noble and loyal City 
 of Mexico, was baptized in this font. It was renovated in the 
 year 1798.” There is also a polychrome figure of San Felipe 
 here. Several special indulgences were granted by Pope 
 Alexander VII to all who would perform certain acts of wor- 
 ship before this shrine. 
 
 The body of the martyr was laid in the chapel built for 
 it in 1638. Later a temple was erected in his honor, but this, 
 along with a Capuchin convent near by, was destroyed after the 
 passage of the Reform Laws. The new church of San Felipe 
 de Jesus , on the Avenida de San Francisco, dedicated to this 
 santo , is described at p. 325. We now come to a door in the 
 west wall that leads to 
 
 The Meeting-Room {sala de juntas) of the Archicofradi a , 
 generally called La Claveria, directly across the ambulatory 
 from the sacristy, at the 1. of the Capilla de los Reyes. Albeit 
 Murillo’s Virgin of Bethlehem has been taken hence, the 
 elongated room still contains some of the choicest pictures in 
 
286 Route J>2. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Cathedral. 
 
 the ch. On the W. wall there hangs a Holy Family attributed 
 to Murillo, but manifestly by some adept pupil of the Mexican 
 branch of the School, perhaps Jose Rodriguez Juarez. To the 
 r. and 1. are 29 portraits of former archbishops of Mexico. On 
 the E. wall is a notable Last Supper and a Triumph of the Faith , 
 by Jose Alzibar (p. clii). The huge crescent-shaped canvas 
 attributed to Jose Ibarra , on the S. wall, with its magnificent 
 gilt frame, is very striking, and represents the Coming of the 
 Holy Ghost — La Venida del Espiritu Santo. Note the tongues 
 of flame which play about the heads of the awed spectators. 
 The painting of Don Juan de Austria imploring the help of the 
 Virgin at the Battle of Le panto, which formerly hung in this 
 room, is now in the San Carlos Academy (p. 313). 
 
 Flanking the N.-W. exit to the Calle de Santa Teresa, and 
 between the Capilla de los Santos Reyes and the entrance to 
 La Claveria, is a small (uninteresting) altar dedicated to El 
 Santo Nino de Atoche, which calls for no special mention. The 
 dilapidated picture on the opposite wall represents scenes in 
 the apparition of the Virgin of Guadalupe to Juan Diego. 
 
 Just outside this exit (to the 1.) is a small chapel called Santa 
 Rita y Animas, which is not worth visiting. 
 
 Between the entrance to the sacristy and the exit to the 
 Calle de Santa Teresa (note the quaintly carved confessional 
 outside the sacristy door) is an altar dedicated to San Jose , 
 with a painting of that saint as the central attraction. The 
 retablo is a good example of the Churrigueresque, with ten 
 minor paintings let into it. On the opposite wall is a San 
 Sebastidn de Aparicio, a locally renowned saint who died in 
 Puebla Feb. 26, 1600. 
 
 The Sacristia (sacristy) , immediately to the E. of the Altar 
 de los Reyes , “is a noble chamber in whose vaulting is to be 
 seen the most extensive example of the ribbed construction 
 employed in the original design by Castaneda.” The Spanish 
 inscription carved in the arch above the entrance bears the 
 date 1623 and refers to the erection of the room. The six great 
 paintings which almost cover the walls are among the largest 
 canvases in Mexico and they “produce a magnificent effect of 
 mural decoration, though somewhat sombre in their solemnity. 
 
 It must have been an exceptionally difficult task to paint the 
 multitude of figures that populates each of these gigantic 
 canvases. In conveying a grand and imposing impression with ^ 
 splendid ensembles, artistic groupings, rhythmic arrangement 
 of groups, sincere feeling and a high devotional quality, the 
 results are successful. But on the other hand the tone main- 
 tained is too gloomy, the coloring too opaque, too severe, for 
 the subjects, which demand luminosity, atmospheric sparkle 
 and a pervasive joyousness. The richly designed frames of the 
 pictures, with polychrome statues at the corners, are beautiful 
 features of the decorative scheme, which has been marred by 
 
Cathedral. MEXICO CITY 42 . Route. 287 
 
 covering the remaining portion of the wall surface with wall 
 paper.” 
 
 The Assumption of the Virgin , on the S. Wall, and the 
 Entry into Jerusalem , on the E. wall, are by Juan Correa 
 (p. cxlix), who also painted The Allegory of the Church, on the 
 N. wall. The Triumph of the Sacrament, on the E. wall, The 
 Apocalypse and The Glory of Saint Michael, on the W. wall, 
 are by Cristobal de Villalpando (comp. p. cxlix). 
 
 The Ecce Homo in the glass case at the S. end of the room 
 is one of the most interesting and ancient possessions of the 
 Cathedral. It is known as El Sehor del Cacao (Christ of the 
 Cacao-beans) from the circumstance that it was purchased 
 from the proceeds of the sale of an enormous lot of cacao- 
 beans given by Indian devotees at a time when they were 
 used as money by different Mexican tribes. The richly colored 
 old mahogany chests ( estantes ) with brass trimmings, used for 
 storing sacerdotal robes, are worth looking at; as are also 
 some of the church plate, the chasubles, dalmaticas and other 
 vestments they contain. 
 
 The most precious gem of the Cathedral (and one of the most valuable 
 pictures in the Republic), surpassing all else in merit and interest, is a 
 small painting of The Virgin of Bethlehem , by Murillo (comp. p. cxli) 
 hidden away in a small room called La Pequeha Capilla del Cabildo (small 
 chapel of the governing board) behind the sacristia and three or four 
 rooms removed. (Step through the E. exit, turn to the right, cross the 
 adjoining room, turn again to the left, then sharply to the left again.) 
 Permission to enter is readily granted if the tactful visitor will ask any 
 of the padres who may happen to be in, or near, the sacristy. The paint- 
 ing formerly hung in the Claveria (p. 285) where the Sagrada Familia 
 now hangs, but it had to be removed from this quasi-public place because 
 of the insistence of the many would-be purchasers. Time has not dealt 
 generously with this masterpiece of Spanish art, which hangs in a modest 
 little room wherein are several other pictures of no particular merit. The 
 canvas has been patched near the head of the Virgin, but the surpassingly 
 sweet faces (typically Andalusian) of the Mother, and the surprised 
 Child, shine out with a winsomeness that goes straight to the heart of the 
 lover of these little sacred gems of painted excellence. No one familiar 
 with the art of Murillo could fail to take this picture for a master pro- 
 duction. In the belief that it may not sound too material or frivolous it 
 may not be amiss to remind the utilitarian traveller that this bit of 
 painted canvas, which is not over four feet square, would perhaps bring 
 forty thousand pesos if sold in the open market. 
 
 This painting is so coveted that during revolutionary times it usually 
 disappears, to reappear when peace and tranquillity are restored. It is 
 believed the astute padres hide it in a secret niche in the thick walls of the 
 cathedral. 
 
 Emerging from the sacristy we turn to the left and approach 
 
 La Capilla del Santo Cristo (known also as la capilla de las 
 Reliquias, or relics), one of the finest in the church, and inter- 
 esting because of its three splendid Churrigueresque altars 
 and retablos, and for the many relics which are said to be hid- 
 den behind them. In this chapel is one of the oldest, the most 
 revered and perchance the most valuable objects in the Cathe- 
 dral — a life-size figure of Christ, presented by the Emperor 
 Charles V to the altar of the primitive church. Some histori- 
 
288 Route J$. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Cathedral. 
 
 ans aver that it followed hard on the heels of the conquerors, 
 and from this circumstance it was called the Santo Cristo de 
 las Conquistador es (comp. Merida, p. 577). There are many 
 small paintings in this chapel, none of which call for particular 
 mention. The replica of the Virgin of Guadalupe is attributed to 
 Miguel Cabrera (see p.cli). The twelve paintings of martyrs 
 are assigned to Juan Herrera. Behind some of these pictures, 
 let into receptacles in the wall, there are (it is said) small relics 
 and bones of the different martyrs; a carved wood head of 
 St. Paul ; a silver casket containing a piece of the veil worn by 
 the Holy Virgin; the skull of San Felipe de Jesus; bits of bone 
 of San Francisco Xavier; several threads from the tilma 
 (comp. p. 401) on which the original picture of the Virgin of 
 Guadalupe was stamped ; the dried and shrivelled roses which 
 the Virgin bade Juan Diego gather on the barren hill of Te- 
 peyac and show to Bishop Zumarraga — and a wearying lot 
 of other relics of equally questionable authenticity. The fine 
 ribbed and vaulted ceiling of the capilla is noteworthy. At the 
 top of the high grill which encloses the chapel are the words 
 Cruci Fixus. 
 
 Proceeding southward along the E. aisle we come to the 
 (next) 
 
 Capilla de San Pedro , with some striking reredos (among 
 the finest in the Cathedral) which suggest a sort of rudimentary 
 Churrigueresque upon Platcresque and Baroque grounds. In 
 the N. wall of this chapel is the tomb of Fray Juan de Zumar- 
 raga, the first Bishop of Mexico, and of the celebrated Gregorio 
 Lopez — a Mexican Man with an Iron Mask — a sanctified 
 personage, a hero of legend and romance and, according to a 
 popular belief in his day, supposed to have been a son of 
 Felipe II, whom he served as page. 1 
 
 The central altar of the chapel is dedicated to the Holy 
 Apostle, and the two lateral ones to San Jose and Santa 
 T eresa. The stained-glass picture of San Pedro is of European 
 origin. The fourteen paintings representing scenes in the life 
 of St. Peter are attributed to Juan Correa , and are thought 
 to have been painted in 1691. The Assumption skied on the 
 N. wall is accredited to Francisco Martinez (1736), who painted 
 the Episodes in the Life of San Lorenzo, which hang on the E. 
 wall of the choir. The small paintings illustrating scenes in 
 the life of the Virgin are likewise attributed to Correa. The 
 face and hands of the figure of the Virgin in the glass case 
 are of ivory, and the figure itself once belonged to the Emperor 
 Maximilian. The ribbed ceiling of this chapel is also a good 
 specimen of the old-time work. 
 
 1 Lopez died in 1596 at the age of 54. Archbishop Serna, and others, 
 made sustained efforts to have his name enrolled among the saints, but 
 failed. He lived an austere life among the wild Indians near Atemayac. 
 His portrait is to be seen in the National Museum, described at p. 298- 
 
Cathedral. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42 . Route . 289 
 
 We now come to the east transept and entrance. The huge 
 wooden cancel , or storm-door, is of carved cedar. 
 
 The sculptured wood book-case which stands here once 
 formed a segment of the coro , and it bears the inscription, 
 Libreria del Coro del aho de 1759. Formerly there hung in the 
 Claveria the celebrated painting (perhaps by Murillo) of Don 
 Juan de Austria imploring the aid of the Virgin at the Battle 
 of Lepanto. Later it was moved to this spot, and for many 
 years it hung against the south wall. It is now in what perhaps 
 will be its final resting place in the Academia de San Carlos , 
 described at p. 313. 
 
 Just outside the entrance to this transept, at the left, is the 
 Archbishop’s Palace — El Arzobispado. The influence which 
 radiated from this old structure in vice regal times was infi- 
 nitely more powerful than that from the Palado Nacional , 
 since it bore much the same relation to Mexico that the 
 Vatican in its palmy days did to Rome. 
 
 La Capilla de San Juan Nepomuceno (formerly that of 
 Nuestra Sehora La Antigua ) was used as the sagrario until 
 1626, when by order of the Marquis of Cerralvo the old Cathe- 
 dral was demolished and divine services were held in the new 
 one. It derived its name from a very striking picture of the 
 Virgin, a replica of a much venerated picture in the Seville 
 Cathedral, known as La Antigua. The very effective faces of 
 the Mother and Child are surrounded by a sort of stamped 
 work resembling brocade. The figurine in the glass case at the 
 centre of the main altar is known as El Nino Cautivo (captive 
 child) and is much venerated. According to the ch. records, 
 while it was en route to Mexico it was captured by Moorish 
 pirates and held for seven years. The figure and its owner 
 were then ransomed for 2,000 pesos. It was placed in this 
 chapel Feb. 14, 1629. The two paintings at the sides of the 
 altar are attributed to Miguel Cabrera (p. cli) and represent 
 episodes in the life of the Nino. The small paintings are of St. 
 Peter and St. John. 
 
 La Capilla de la Virgen de Guadalupe was dedicated to Our 
 Lady of Guadalupe in 1669. The painting on the wall is a 
 replica of the one at the Colegiata in the town of Guadalupe- 
 Hidalgo (comp. p. 401). 
 
 La Capilla de la Purisima Concepcion is cold and unattrac- 
 tive. The painting on the S. wall represents Santa Ana, the 
 saint to whom the chapel was first dedicated in 1752. The ac- 
 quisitive Generalisimo A ntonio Lopez de Santa Anna showed his 
 devotion to this santa by robbing her chapel of some massive 
 silver ornaments and candelabra. Several archbishops of the 
 Cathedral are buried here. 
 
 La Capilla de Nuestra Senora de las Angustias at the extreme 
 south end of the east aisle has a handsome gilt reredo at the 
 back and two elaborately gilded altars at the sides. It was 
 
290 Route 42 . MEXICO CITY Sagrario. 
 
 formerly used as a meeting- room by the hermanos of the 
 archicofradia, and was dedicated in 1649 to La Virgen de 
 las Angustias de Granada , one of the most potent and cele- 
 brated of all the Spanish Virgins. The picture of the Virgin, 
 at the central altar, is attributed to Jose Rodriguez Juarez , 
 and that of Nuestra Sen ora del Refug w , and John the Baptist 
 and the Angel (against the S. wall), to Echave the Elder. 
 Doctor Francisco Moreno y Castro, one-time dean of the ch. 
 and founder of this chapel, is buried here. 
 
 Between the chapels of Nuestra Seiiora de las Angustias 
 and La Purlsima Concepcion (at the S. end of the E. aisle) 
 is the Pasillo leading to the Sagrario Metropolitano. For 
 many years it served as a baptistry; then it was converted 
 into the Chapel of La Soledad. On the N. wall is a mediocre 
 picture of San Vicente Paul, founder of the Congregation 
 de la Mision. On the opposite wall is a sadly neglected 
 canvas representing Calvary and the Crucifixion. The stone 
 arch above the entrance to the sagrario is richly carved, as 
 are also the ancient doors. In this pasillo , there may some- 
 times be seen (its location is subject to change) a tall cedar 
 wood cross called Cruz de la Expiacicn, which was installed in 
 the Cathedral (formerly it stood against the S. wall of the 
 Capilla de San Jose) with great solemnity, on the night of 
 Dec. 31, 1900, with the passing of the century. It is said to 
 represent a sort of protest against the passage of the Reform 
 Laws. It is hollow and the many apartments contain bottles 
 with fragments of the different churches and convents affected 
 by the demortization and sequestration laws, minor ecclesias- 
 tical relics, and whatnot. The Cathedral evidently considers 
 it an undesirable possession which it will doubtless dispose of 
 in due course. An alert, bright-eyed beadle (bedel), the only 
 one the visitor is apt to encounter in the ch., usually stands 
 in this passageway, clutching in his right hand a ccntribution- 
 box shaped like an exaggerated beer-mug, which he shakes 
 vigorously so that the generous-minded may hear the clink of 
 the coins and add to their number. 
 
 The Sagrario Metropolitano, though joined to the Cathe- 
 dral, is a distinct church in itself. Ecclesiastically a sagrario 
 is that part of a ch. wherein consecrated things are deposited, 
 and this is the special purpose of the Sagrario Metropolitano 
 in relation to the Cathedral. It is likewise an independent 
 parochial ch.; the seat of one of the many parishes intowdiich 
 the city has been divided since 1772. It is the successor to 
 the first sagrario in Mexico, which was built on this site soon 
 after the Conquest, and was administered by the Padre J uan 
 Diaz , chaplain to Hernan Cortes. Upon its foundation it was 
 dedicated to Santiago. The present building dates from the 
 middle of the 18th cent., the preceding ch. having been burned. 
 Its architect was the highly talented Lorenzo Rodriguez , who 
 
Sagrario. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route. 291 
 
 formulated the plans Jan. 7, 1749. It is one of the three import- 
 ant examples of Churrigueresque church exteriors now existing 
 in the capital, and is remarkable for its two elaborately and 
 intricately decorated fagades, similar in design and of equal 
 value. Of the two fagades the south is now the better, as being 
 complete throughout, — the east one being mutilated by the 
 effacement of the royal arms of Spain. As a rule the numer- 
 ous statues and high reliefs that adorn these fagades in such 
 rich profusion are uncommonly good in conception, in the 
 graceful attitude in relation to the decorative scheme, in fine- 
 ness of expression, and in careful execution. The elaborately 
 carved great doors, with their high reliefs, have much of the 
 spirit of the decorative works about them, but are somewhat 
 lumpy in the character of their ornament. The two principal 
 reliefs of the E. doors represent respectively the Assumption 
 of the Virgin and Saint Joseph; those of the S. doors, Saint 
 Peter and Moses. 
 
 The inscriptions cut into the stone at the r. and 1. of the E. 
 entrance advise that 'they were completed Feb. 14, 1749. 
 The very elaborate chiselled work hereabout illustrates the 
 adeptness of the early artisans. The rich carving is carried 
 even to the surfaces of the quaint old stone gargoyles. 
 
 The Interior of the Sagrario is nobly proportioned, with 
 pillars and columns of the same design as those in the Cathe- 
 dral, arranged in the strikingly symmetrical plan of a Greek 
 Cross, with a dome at the centre. It was repaired and redec- 
 orated in 1908, and in the unhappy rage for restoration it has 
 been despoiled of most of its best old adornments. This is 
 particularly noticeable in the one-time beautiful (now uninter- 
 esting) baptistry (bautisterio ) , long celebrated for the ad- 
 mirable fresco by Jose Gines de Aguirre , depicting the baptisms 
 of Jesus, San Agustin, and San Felipe de Jesus. The baptismal 
 font has been regilded and spruced-up and is now used for 
 baptizing the aristocratic babies of the capital. We enter the 
 Sagrario through the pasillo leading from the E. aisle of the 
 Cathedral. 
 
 The first altar to the r. is, according to the inscription at 
 the base, dedicated to San Pedro Tomas, the Abogado contra 
 toda epidemia e enfermedad contagiosa — advocate against all 
 epidemics and contagious diseases. Note the unique carved 
 ivory face of the Virgin, in a bevelled glass case. The altar at 
 the 1. is that of La Santisima Trinidad, and the adjoining one 
 is dedicated to the Mater Dolorosa. 
 
 The High Altar, a ponderous mass of gilt and polychrome 
 figures in high relief, is flanked by tall Churrigueresque altars. 
 The paintings of male saints are dilapidated, and the spaces 
 into which the altars are crowded are too small for their 
 enormous bulk. The immensely tall reredo at the r. of the E. 
 entrance is a sort of Churrigueresque work adapted from the 
 
292 Route 4%- MEXICO CITY Palacio Municipal. 
 
 Baroque. The richly carved cedar- wood cancel of the E. en- 
 trance is worth looking at. The tawdry altars at the S.-E. 
 corner are dedicated to Santa Eduwiges and San Juan Nepomu - 
 ceno; the paintings represent scenes in the lives of these per- 
 sonages. At the S.-W. corner are altars surrounded by mediocre 
 paintings of Santa Eulalia, San Pedro Nolasco, Santa Maria 
 del Socorro and San Ramon Nonato . The small paintings which 
 cling to the piers represent the 14 Stations of the Cross. The 
 effective paintings in the spandrels of the arches of the dome 
 date from 1908 and are the work of B. Galloti. 
 
 At the W. end of the Sagrario, outside, and where it joins 
 the Cathedral, there is a small chapel, La Capilla de Nuestra 
 Se Flora de la Soledad, with two large paintings; one, on the 
 W. wall, San Antonio de Padua , the work of Jose Maria 
 Vasquez, in 1790; the other, La Purisima, by C. Brumidi , in 
 1854. 
 
 At the S.-E. corner of the Sagrario is a cluster of small rooms 
 called El Cuadrante de la Parroquia del Sagrario, in one of 
 which hangs a large San Juan Bautista i en el Desierto ; a gloomy 
 picture attributed to Murillo, representing St. John drinking 
 from a desert spring; its authenticity is doubtful. Ranged 
 around the walls of two of these rooms are a number of por- 
 traits (mediocre) of Bishops of the Diocese of Mexico. 
 
 El Palacio Municipal (Municipal Palace, or City Hall), 
 also called Palacio del Ayuntamiento, and La Diputacidn (at 
 the S.-W. corner of the Plaza Mayor), was established in 1532, 
 as La Casa de los Cabildos , where the Cabildo M etropolitano 
 or Ayuntamiento (city council), composed of regidores (aider- 
 men), held meetings. Open daily, free, from 10 to 3; fees 
 unnecessary. It occupies the site of the Aztec Tlillancalqui , 
 or residence of the commander-in-chief ( Tlacaelel ) of the 
 Indian city. After the downfall of Tenochtitlan the debris of 
 the primitive structure was removed and the first city hall 
 of the conquerors was erected on the spot. In 1564 the city 
 purchased the site from the heirs of Hernan Cortes for 12,000 
 pesos, and constructed a larger and more commodious build- 
 ing, which stood until the great riots of June 8, 1692, when 
 it was all but demolished. The present structure dates from 
 1720-24, cost 860,000, and houses a number of government 
 officials, among them that of the City Council. The third story 
 and the new colonial decorations were added in 1909. Weekly 
 council meetings have been held uninterruptedly on this spot 
 for nearly four centuries. 
 
 The Archives ( archivos ) contain a highly interesting, and 
 immensely valuable, collection of old books and documents 
 relating to the early history of the city; quite unequalled for 
 completeness anywhere in the Republic. Chief among these 
 (kept in a carved wood box with a silver name-plate) is the 
 Libro Primer o de Cabildos en la Ciudad de Mejico desde 1524 
 
Flower Market 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42 . Route. 293 
 
 a 1529, which contains the record of the first council meeting 
 of the Spanish city, along with the rubrica (see p. xli) of 
 Her nan Cortes and many notables of that epoch. The book 
 was re-bound recently, albeit the paper (a sort of parchment 
 made of maguey fibre) and the ink are splendidly preserved. 
 The old manuscripts are a delight to the antiquarian and to 
 the bibliophile, as are also the parchment books, with their 
 attractive bindings and illuminated text and illustrations. 
 The somewhat unprepossessing entrance to the palacio is 
 near the centre of the portales. By ascending the grand stair- 
 way which leads up from the r., and then turning to the r., we 
 come to the Salon de Cabildos del Honorable Ayuntamiento , 
 which contains 62 highly interesting portraits, in oil, of the 
 primitive rulers of Mexico from Her nan Cortes to Juan O' Do- 
 noju, last of the Spanish line; the inscriptions on the different 
 paintings refer to their life and work. The student of character 
 will be interested in the lean, hatchet-faces of some of these 
 early vice-kings. The life-size paintings of Morelos, Hidalgo 
 and Guerrero are the work of Tiburcio Sanchez. The large, 
 and somewhat faded, allegorical painting on the ceiling is 
 by F. Parra, and portrays the different types and costumes 
 from the epoch of the Conquest to the present time. In the 
 adjoining rooms are portraits of the rulers of Independent 
 Mexico, of prominent figures in the history of the Republic, 
 and of the various governors of the city. 
 
 The Flower Market ( Mercado de Flores ), at the N.-W. cor- 
 I ner of the Cathedral (PI. H, 4), is a somewhat shabby affair, 
 
 , erected in 1881 on the site of the Ilhuicatitlan, or Aztec temple 
 dedicated to Quetzalcoatl (see p. 304). Flowers are on sale here 
 every day of the year; those most in evidence are roses in 
 great variety, violets, carnations, poppies, tuberoses, mar- 
 guerites, pansies, lilies, gardenias, camelias, etc. Many huge 
 funeral wreaths are usually to be seen here. The native love 
 for flowers is proverbial, but their refining influence does not 
 prevent the venders from asking much more than they expect 
 to receive. The right price for a medium-size bunch of roses 
 or violets is 25 c. These can generally be bought cheaper at 
 the other city markets. Prices are apt to be double on feast- 
 days and Sundays. Indians from the surrounding country 
 bring freshly-cut flowers here, and if they fail to dispose of 
 them they usually hawk them about the streets, or offer them 
 from house to house. Their potted plants are usually cut- 
 tings or slips made to look right, but which generally die 
 within two or three days. Frequently a fine-looking palm will 
 die because it has been transplanted into a pot too small for 
 it. Bargaining is always necessary. 
 
 Tropical song-birds in native-made bamboo cages are beau- 
 tiful features of the Flower Market, and the visitor will be re- 
 paid for a visit simply to hear these sweet songsters. Parrots 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 Los Pcrtales . 
 
 294 Route /$. 
 
 (loros) are much in evidence: prices vary from $2 to $10. 
 
 It is well to remember that only the yellow-heads learn to 
 talk. The red-heads, and the small green parokets, are 
 usually distinguished only for their strident voices, and for an 
 amazing capacity for making unmelodious noises. 
 
 The Portal de los Mercaderes (arcade of the shop-keepers) 
 flanks the W. side of the Plaza Mayor. Beside being the busi- 
 est and most attractive arcade of the city, it is perhaps the 
 oldest, since its foundation dates from the years which imme- 
 diately followed the Conquest. In April, 1524, the property 
 owners along this plaza were accorded permission to erect, 
 each, a portico 25 ft. wdde, in front of their respective shops, 
 to afford a sun-shelter to pedestrians and a refuge from the 
 rain to the market-men who at that period maintained many 
 small open-air stands in the plaza. Ere long these cool, 
 sheltered spots were much sought by various small craftsmen ; 
 the first to lodge themselves, swallow-like, in the angles of 
 the porticoes, were the public scribes or evangelistas (evange- 
 lists), as the Mexicans call them. For more than three cen- 
 turies, successive dynasties of these lowly scriveners were 
 features of this spot ; reading and writing the impassioned cor- 
 respondence of the unlettered criadas (serving-maids) and of 
 those whose youth was passed in pursuits other than learning 
 to give chirographical expression to their fiery southern senti- 
 ments. The advance of education has reduced greatly the 
 number of these escribientes, and a recent local ordinance 
 relegated the majority to the Thieves’ Market (p.296), and to 
 less busy sections of the city. 
 
 Beneath the 27 gayly decorated arches, illumined with 
 advertisements of lottery drawings, bull-fight posters, theatrical 
 announcements and whatnot, are a host of small dulcerlas and 
 toy, spectacle, book, pinch-beck jewellery and ice-cream 
 shops ; while in the whitewashed angles, which afford scarcely ; 
 room enough to turn, are microscopic printing-offices, equipped 
 with a tiny hand-press, where the impecuniously proud can 
 obtain a dozen or more bizarre little visiting or mourning cards ; j 
 have their names stamped on metal key-ring discs, purchase 
 recipes for making love-philters, and for ink, have their for- 
 tune told by canary-birds, or buy letter-writers filled with 
 grandiloquent and amatory epistles suitable for all occasions. 
 
 These portales have changed but little in three centuries, 
 and they bear more or less the same relation to Mexico that 
 Piccadilly Circus does to London and the Rialto to New York. 
 
 A chattering throng pulses steadily beneath them, and the 
 busy foreigner who has perhaps never realized how slowly a 
 Mexican can walk when on pleasure bent, forms definite con- 
 clusions w’hen once he trails a dawdler through this short 
 promenade. The spot is the chosen field of sly rateros (comp, 
 p.lxvii) who here ply their trade industriously and with sus- 
 
Monte de Piedad. MEXICO CITY 1,2. Route. 295 
 
 tained success. The cautious traveller will keep a tight grasp 
 on his valuables when he is in this locality. 
 
 The arcade which faces north and which occupies half of the 
 southern side of the Plaza Mayor is known as the Portal de 
 las Flores. In former times the canals led to the plaza and 
 this portal was the old flower market. The Indian canoes came 
 from the Viga and the lakes beyond, directly up to stone 
 steps which led from the street down to the water; in the 
 early morning the entire portal was strewn with a wealth of 
 freshly cut roses and other flowers. 
 
 The National Pawn-Shop — El Monte de Piedad (moun- 
 tain of piety), also called El Montepio , faces the park which 
 flanks the W. side of the Cathedral. Above the high arched 
 doorway are the bronze letters N -Monte de Piedad. The bronze 
 bust above this arch is that of its philanthropic founder, Pedro 
 Jose Romero de Terreros , Conde de Regia , owner of the once 
 fabulously rich mines of Real del Monte (p.423). The bronze 
 tablet was placed in its present position in 1878. 
 
 The Monte de Piedad was founded Feb. 25, 1775 (tablet), with a capi- 
 talization of $300,000. The purpose of the institution was to loan money 
 upon the personal property of the poor at a low rate of interest, to free 
 them from the usurious rates of interest charged by private pawn-brokers 
 (prestamistas) . The Mexican Monte de Piedad corresponds to the Monti di 
 Pieta of the Italians, an institution established first at Rome, under Leo 
 X, by charitable persons who wished to rescue the poor and needy from 
 usurious money-lenders. Both the name and system were introduced into 
 France and Spain, from which latter country it reached Mexico. “ Monte ” 
 in this sense means a public or state loan, hence also a species of “ bank." 
 
 As the main door leads into the office and patio, the visitor 
 is advised to enter the almonte (sales-room) by one of the 6 
 doors at the right. Above the space between the 3d and 4th 
 doors is the word A Imoneda (auction). When a sale (usually 
 held monthly) of pledges is in preparation, a metal sign “Re- 
 mate de prendas el dia 25 del corriente mes” (auction sale the 
 25th of the current month) is hung out near the third doorway. 
 
 A host of articles are pledged, ranging from pianos, auto- 
 mobiles and beautiful jewellery, to office-safes, sad-irons, etc. 
 The ostensibly rich are the steady patrons of the place; it is 
 not unusual for them to pawn jewels, carriages, and house- 
 hold articles for the wherewithal to secure a box at the opera 
 or to indulge in some coveted pleasure. A surprisingly fine 
 lot of jewellery and personal treasures, at prices ranging from 
 25 c. to thousands of pesos , are usually displayed in the show- 
 cases ranged along the front of the almonte. The space behind 
 is generally crammed with sewing-machines, porcelain, brass 
 beds, saddles, pictures, and a hodge-podge of Lares and Penates. 
 The patio contains vehicles, iron safes and heavy pieces of fur- 
 niture. 
 
 Almost anything portable and of value, excepting live-stock, 
 can be pledged. Bicycles, pianos, sewing-machines, and articles 
 
296 Route 1+2. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Thieves' Market. 
 
 of a like nature must be accompanied by a bill ( factura ) show- 
 ing their cost. The smallest sum loaned on an article is 12 c., 
 the largest SI, 000. When an article is offered as a pledge, an 
 expert valuator fixes the price and a certain percentage of its 
 supposed cost is loaned on it. If the article remains unclaimed, 
 and cannot be sold, the valuator must take it and pay for it. 
 The pledge is held for its owner as long as interest is paid reg- 
 ularly. Should this cease it is marked (in plain figures) at a 
 price considerably in excess of the sum loaned, and placed on 
 sale. If sold at this price the house deducts the interest due 
 and gives the difference to the owner, if he can be found. 
 Otherwise it goes to swell the profits. Every month (for five 
 months) a lower price is marked on unsold articles. The vis- 
 itor will note that many articles bear a tag with five prices 
 marked thereon, one below the other. The lowest price 
 (representing the amount loaned, plus the interest) is that 
 which will be accepted. If the article will not bring the fifth 
 price the borrower is asked to redeem it. If he cannot be found 
 the valuator must buy it. 
 
 The Monthly Auctions ( remotes ) are attended by brokers and 
 many small dealers with a keen sense of values. The clerks 
 pass up and down before the crowd, showing the price marked : 
 the object being to sell the article to whosoever bids highest 
 above the price. Lower offers are not considered, and if the 
 marked price is not obtained the article is withdrawn. After 
 the valuator is forced to redeem the pledge it maybe sold for 
 what it will bring, and herein lies the supposed advantage to 
 the visitor. 
 
 Residents sometimes secure bargains in jewellery and what- 
 not by visiting theMontepio frequently and watching the down- 
 ward course of prices — usually a question of months. In 
 view of the fact that diamonds have a relatively fixed value, 
 and that Mexico does not lack shrewd buyers, the cautious 
 traveller will examine articles leisurely before investing. 
 About 40,000 articles are pawned each month in return for 
 about a half million pesos. All but about 10% are redeemed. 
 The interest paid on pledges amounts to something like 
 $20,000 a month. The Montepio does a limited banking busi- 
 ness and receives objects on deposit for safe-keeping. A sav- 
 ings bank is run in connection with the institution. 
 
 Minor Pawn-Shops ( empehos ) are to be found in almost 
 every street of the capital. Those patronized by the lower 
 classes are uninviting in appearance and are usually filled 
 with a hodge-podge of junk of no value to the traveller. They 
 should be avoided as hot-beds of contagious diseases. Before 
 the establishment of modern laundries many an unwary 
 traveller was forced to visit these places to redeem his linen, 
 unwittingly placed in the hands of faithless lavanderas. 
 
 El Mercado del \ olador (known locally as the Thieves’ 
 
Enrico Martinez. MEXICO CITY J^2. Route. 297 
 
 Market), a few steps from the S.-W. corner of the Palacio 
 Nacional (PI. H, 4), was named for a favorite gymnastic game 
 ( Volador ) of the Aztecs, and stands on ground once occupied 
 by the new Palace of Montezuma. After the Conquest it 
 passed into the hands of Cortes. For many years it was used 
 as a recreation-ground, and soon after the Conquest one of 
 the first bull-fights on American soil w r as celebrated here. 
 The Inquisition condemned (April 11, 1649) 13 heretics to be 
 burned here, but the sentence was carried out at the Que- 
 madero (p. 328) of San Diego. During two centuries the city 
 rented the property from the heirs of Cortes, and finally ac- 
 quired it for $70,000. 
 
 The market is interesting to foreigners chiefly because of 
 an idea that it is a “ fence” where thieves dispose of their 
 booty, and where gems and art objects can be purchased for 
 a trifle. In reality it is a species of bazaar where tawdry and 
 microbic refuse is sold to the credulous and the indigent. 
 
 In the rear of this Mercado is one of the largest of the city’s 
 fruit markets {El Volador ), the focus of nearly all the fruit 
 which enters the capital. From here it is distributed to the 
 minor mercados. Bananas and other fruit come hither from 
 the tierra caliente in a green state, and are artificially 
 ripened by being placed in air-tight bodegas subjected to the 
 heat of charcoal fires. 
 
 El Monumento Hipsografico a Enrico Martinez (PI. 
 
 H, 4), in the Jardin del Seminario (between the Cathedral and 
 Palacio Nacional) , was erected (unveiled May 5, 1881) to the 
 memory of the eminent Portuguese cosmographer, who sought 
 to drain the Valley of Mexico by constructing the Cut of 
 Nochistongo (comp. p. 135). The monument (designed by 
 Francisco M . Jimenez) is due to the initiative of Vicente 
 Riva Palacio, Minister of Public Works in 1877. It stands on 
 a platform of gray Yautepec marble which supports a pedestal 
 of stone from the Tepeaca quarries. The platform is enclosed 
 by a quadrilateral iron railing which supports bronze lamps 
 at its angles. The bronze figure (the work of the Mex. sculptor 
 Miguel Norena) which surmounts the pedestal is that of a 
 young modern-iooking matron clad in antique garb and in the 
 act of depositing a laurel on the tomb of the hydrographer. 
 She is supposed to represent the City of Mexico. From the 
 head of the statue (which weighs 3,000 lbs. and was cast in 
 Paris) to the base of the platform is 26J ft. 
 
 The monument stands at the exact geographical intersec- 
 tion of the meridian which passes the southern corner of the 
 Palacio Nacional , and of the parallel formed by the Calles del 
 Seminario and the l a Moneda. The inscription on the N. 
 face defines its exact geographical position, the magnetic de- 
 clination, and states that the Plan of Comparison is one meter 
 above the inferior tangent of the Aztec Calendar io (calendar 
 
298 Route 1+2. MEXICO CITY Museo Nacional. 
 
 stone) which formerly rested in the W. wall of the W. tower of 
 the Cathedral. 
 
 The bronze standards let into the marble pedestal give 
 various engineering information, with special reference to the 
 water level of the Lakes of Xochimilco, Zumpango, San 
 Cristobal, Texcoco and Zaltocan; the average tidal measure- 
 ments at Vera Cruz, and comparisons between the English 
 yard, the meter and the Mexican vara. Much of the data is 
 not as useful as it was before the Valley of Mexico was drained. 
 
 El Museo Nacional de Mexico (free every day except 
 Saturday and national holidays, from 10 to 1) is a part of the 
 Palacio Nacional and faces (N.) the l a Calle de la Moneda — 
 a narrow street running due E. from the Sagrario Metropoli- 
 tan# (comp, plan of the city, p. 232, and that of the Palacio 
 Nacional , p. 267). 
 
 No fees are expected by the employees and none should be proffered. 
 The traveller is recommended to purchase one of the comprehensive 
 catalogues (25 c.) issued in Spanish and English by the director, for sale 
 in the corridor on the ground floor. The illustrations are an aid to the 
 proper understanding of certain of the objects. Visitors are required to 
 enter by one door ( entrada ), traverse the rooms and go out by the main 
 exit — la salida. Attendants and painted signs point the way. No one is 
 allowed to touch even the glass show-cases in which the most valuable 
 possessions are exhibited. The doors to the museum are closed Saturdays 
 while the rooms are being cleaned. The Nat. Museum Printing Depart- 
 ment issues a number of books descriptive of the collection: a list of them 
 with their cost will be found in the back of the catalogue referred to. 
 Ask for the latest edition. 
 
 The Nucleus of the now extensive contents was the notable 
 collection of Documentos sobre antigiiedades Mexicanas formerly 
 preserved in the vice-regal archives and which the Viceroy 
 Antonio Maria de Bucareli y Ursua caused to be moved (1775) 
 to the University (p. 343). In 1790 the Viceroy Juan Vicente 
 de Giiemes Pacheco y Padilla ordered that all the archaeological 
 specimens and Indian relics dug up from time to time in 
 Mexico City should be collected and sent to the University, 
 where a special study could be made of them. In 1822 the 
 National Government established a Conservatorio de Anti- 
 giiedades and a Gabinete de Historia Natural in the University, 
 and in 1831 Lucas Alaman united the collections under the 
 title of El Museo Nacional. The Emperor Maximilian trans- 
 ferred the lot (in 1865) to the present location, in what was 
 once the old Mint, founded in 1734, during the reign of the 
 Spanish King Felipe V. (See the bronze bust and inscription 
 above the entrance to the Hall of the Monoliths.) 
 
 The highly interesting collection of Indian Idols, sculptures 
 and relics is perhaps unique, in that the articles are authentic 
 and the majority were found within the Mexican Republic. 
 The entire museum collection is singularly free from forgeries, 
 and it is to the credit of the directors that where the authen- 
 ticity of an object is doubtful, mention is made in the catalogue. 
 
Museum . 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42 . Route. 299 
 
 As the numbers and locations of many of the objects are 
 avowedly temporary, no effort will be made here to describe 
 them in rotation. Furthermore, not all of the specimens are 
 of special interest to travellers. Those meriting particular 
 mention will be referred to in the proper place. Constant 
 archaeological finds are being made in the Republic and addi- 
 tions to the collection are received from time to time. The 
 old post-offi6e department adjacent to the present museum 
 is being remodelled to accommodate certain of the exhibits, 
 and a fine new building is to be erected on the Avenida Juarez 
 for others. 
 
 The contents of the museo are at present arranged in four 
 departments under the special superintendence of conserva - 
 dores — usually men who have devoted their time to this 
 special work. The sections are: 
 
 I. Archaeology ( Arqueologia ). II. Natural History 
 
 ( Historia Natural). III. Anthropology and Ethnography 
 (Antropologia y Etnografia ) . IV. Mexican History {Historia 
 Mexicana) . 
 
 The Ground Floor is partly devoted to the heavier 
 archaeological specimens, of which there is the finest collection 
 in the Republic. Many of them were dug out of the Plaza 
 Mayor and the streets hard by. The fine Galeria de Mono- 
 litos which contains them was inaugurated by President 
 Porfirio Diaz in 1887. The entrance is opposite the main door- 
 way of the museo. The huge outer doors (tablet above) are 
 interesting specimens of Spanish-Moorish work, bronze 
 covered, with huge, elaborately chased knockers and metal 
 bosses. The long beams in the ceiling above the zaguan 
 illustrate a style of architecture that dates from the ear- 
 liest Spanish occupation. We cross the patio , with its many 
 archaeological specimens, and enter the 
 
 Gallery of the Monoliths. Facing the doorway, embedded 
 in theS. wall, is 
 
 The Aztec Calendar Stone ( calendario Azteca ), called 
 also Stone of the Sun ( piedra del Sol), a huge rectangular 
 parallelopipedon of basaltic porphyry 12 ft. in diameter by 3 
 ft. thick, which weighs 24 tons and is one of the most interest- 
 ing of the Aztec relics. When found (about the middle of the 
 17th cent.) in the sub-soil of the Plaza Mayor it showed traces 
 of having been covered with a red pigment. “ Fearful that the 
 sight of the stone might influence the Indians to revert to idol 
 worship, Archbishop Montufar caused it to be reburied, but 
 not before it was considerably mutilated by the natives, some 
 of whom took the opportunity of manifesting their horror of 
 the ancient gods, by pelting with stones this relic of their 
 paganism.” Parts of the stone were also broken off when it 
 was thrown down from the temple and buried by the Span- 
 iards. It was dug up again in Dec., 1790, and cemented on to 
 
300 Route 42. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Museum. 
 
 the base of the W. tower of the Cathedral, where it remained 
 for nearly a century, exposed to the view of all passers-by, 
 and to the action of the elements. It w^as moved to the museo 
 in 1885. 
 
 This immense specimen, which resembles an irregular mill- 
 stone with a disc carved on it in low relief, evidently served 
 the Aztecs as a calendar stone and sun-dial : the face is carved 
 with chronological and astronomical signs in geometrical order. 
 The central figure, with a protruding tongue, represents the 
 sun — tonatiuh; the segments radiating toward the edge of 
 the disc are symbolic of its rays. Encircling this central figure 
 are seven rings of unequal widths: from the third to the 
 seventh, they are incomplete. The inner ring represents two 
 groups of signs: each group containing four symbols. Above 
 the face is an arrowhead, symbolic of the wind (1 echecatl ) 
 and beneath it a cluster of balls and hieroglyphs. In the 
 rectangles above and below the eagle-claws at the right and 
 left of the face are symbols representing the four elements — 
 Air (echecalonaliuh) , Fire (fletonatiuh) , Water (atltonatiuh) 
 and Earth (tlaltonatiuh) . The symbols on both sides of the 
 upper arrowhead are supposed to represent the years. Five 
 ornamental discs fill the spaces between the symbols. The 
 rectangles of the second ring contain the names of the days of 
 the Aztec month ( meztli ); they begin above the point of the 
 arrowhead and continue toward the left, thus: Cipatli (first 
 light) ; Echecatl (wind) ; Colli (house) ; Cuetz-pallin (lizard) ; 
 Coail (serpent); Miquitli (death); Mazatl (deer); Tochlli 
 (rabbit) ; Atl (water) ; Itzcuinctli (dog) ; Ozomatli (twisted 
 plant) ; Acatl (sugar-cane) ; Ocelotl (tiger) ; Cuauhili (eagle) ; 
 Coscacuauhtli (vulture) ; Ollin tonatiuh (sun movement); Tec - 
 pail (flint) ; Quiahuitl (music) ; Xochitl (flower). 1 
 
 The third ring contains 40 small squares each with five balls 
 supposed to represent days — 200 in all. Crossing this ring 
 and extending to the sixth are four large arrowheads. The 
 latter ring is the largest of all and is formed by two huge 
 serpents whose tails terminate in arrowheads ornamented 
 with feathers. The chronological figure between the ends of 
 the tails signifies reed (acatl), and is thought to correspond 
 to the year 1479 of our era. The human heads ornamented 
 with feathers, eagle-claws, discs, ear-pendants and whatnot, 
 represent the gods: (at the 1.) Tonatiuh — the Sun, and (at 
 the r.) Quetzatcoatl — God of the Air. 
 
 The rim of the huge stone is adorned with many conical 
 glyptics, half-stars and balls — symbolic of the heavens with 
 their worlds and stars. 
 
 1 Archaeologists disagree as to the meaning of the ideographs on this 
 stone, and there is, no doubt, considerable guess-work in their interpreta- 
 tion. Reproductions of this calendar stone are now to be found in many 
 museums of the world. 
 
Museum. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route. 301 
 
 The Calendar Stone is said originally to have weighed nearly 50 tons. 
 Indian historians say it was transported from the mountains beyond 
 Lake Chaleo, a distance of many leagues, over a broken country inter- 
 sected by watercourses. In crossing a bridge which spanned a canal in 
 Tenochtitlan, the supports gave way and the huge mass was precipitated 
 into the water, whence it was with difficulty recovered. “The fact that 
 so enormous a fragment of stone could be thus safely carried for leagues, 
 in the face of such obstacles, and without the aid of cattle — for the 
 Aztecs had no animals of draught — suggests to us no mean idea of their 
 mechanical skill, and of their machinery, and implies a degree of culti- 
 vation little inferior to that demanded for the geometrical and astronom- 
 ical science displayed in the inscription on this very stone. It is a price- 
 less relic of pre-historic days and it is supposed to throw much light on the 
 chronological system of the Aztecs. By means of this calendario the 
 priests kept their own records, regulated the festivals and seasons of 
 sacrifice, and made all their astrological calculations. The symbols show 
 that they had the means of settling the hours of the day with precision, 
 the periods of the solstices and equinoxes, and that of the transit of the 
 sun across the zenith of Mexico. 
 
 “ We cannot contemplate the astronomical science of the Mexicans, so 
 disproportionate to their progress in other walks of civilization, without 
 astonishment. That they should be capable of accurately adjusting their 
 festivals by the movements of the heavenly bodies, and should fix the true 
 length of the tropical year, with a precision unknown to the great phil- 
 osophers of antiquity, could be the result only of a long series of nice and 
 patient observations, evincing no slight progress in civilization. But 
 whence could the rude inhabitants of these mountain regions have de- 
 rived their curious erudition! Not from the barbarous hordes who 
 roamed over the higher latitudes of the North; nor from the more pol- 
 ished races on the Southern continent, with whom, it is apparent, they 
 had no intercourse.” (Prescott.) 
 
 The Sacrificial Stone {Piedra de Sacrificios), known also as 
 the Piedra de Tizoc (Seventh King of Mexico), a huge cylinder 
 of very hard trachyte, 8| ft. in diameter and 2} thick, was 
 found (Dec. 17, 1791) buried near theS.-W. corner of the 
 Cathedral atrium. The immense weight prevented its being 
 moved easily, and the workmen were trying to break it up for 
 paving-stone when Canon Gamboa, passing that way, rescued 
 it. It was buried again, but was exhumed Nov. 10, 1824, and 
 transferred to the museum of the University. The deep cut 
 (made by the workmen) from the centre to the edge and down 
 the side of the stone, greatly mars it. The face and rim of the 
 stone (known to the Aztecs as Temalacatl ) are covered with 
 sculptured figures in low relief. The cup-shaped concavity in 
 the centre of the face is six inches deep and 18 inches in 
 diameter, and is supposed to have held the heart of the victim 
 sacrificed. Around this depression are a maze of chronological 
 and symbolic signs, supposed to represent the weeks, days and 
 months of the Aztec year. The fifteen pairs of figures around 
 the rim represent the victories of Tizoc. A warrior holds a 
 prisoner by a tuft of his hair; the victim for the sacrifice holds 
 a bunch of inverted arrows as a sign of defeat. The ideograph 
 on the small panel at the back of each prisoner’s head repre- 
 sents the tribe to which he belonged. Fourteen of the warriors 
 are clad in the garb of the god Totec ; the fifteenth in that of 
 Prince Tizoc. Two of the prisoners are women, and the ideo- 
 
302 Route 42. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Museum. 
 
 graphs signify that one is from Xochimilco, the other from 
 Coyoacan. The conquest refers to the date (1484) when 
 Prince Tizoc captured several cities alluded to in the hiero- 
 glyphs. The image of the sun in relief on the base of the 
 cylinder leads to the belief that besides being a sacrificial 
 stone it was a votive offering to the sun-god in celebration 
 of a great New Year festival — Xoxohuetzi. 
 
 When Cortes and his guard first visited the great teocalli in Anahuac 
 (says Prescott), they found the summit a vast area paved with flat stones. 
 Standing in the centre of this area was the Sacrificial Stone. The method 
 of sacrifice was as follows: The prisoner was bound hand and foot and 
 stretched on the upper convex surface of the stone. Five priests held 
 his head and his limbs, while the sixth, clad in a scarlet mantle, emblem- 
 atic of his bloody office, dextrously opened the breast of the victim with 
 a sharp razor of itzli — a volcanic, glass-like substance hard as flint. 
 Inserting his hand in the wound he tore out the palpitating heart, first 
 holding it up toward the sun — an object of worship throughout the land. 
 Then he cast the smoking heart at the feet of the deity ( Huitzilopochtli ) 
 to whom the temple was devoted, while the multitudes below prostrated 
 themselves in humble adoration. While making the sacrifice the priest 
 expounded the story of the victim, explaining that while life is often 
 brilliant in its commencement it too often closes in sorrow and disaster. 
 In some instances preliminary tortures were inflicted, but they always 
 terminated with the ceremony above described. 
 
 Men, women and children were sacrificed, particularly in seasons of 
 draught, at the festival of the insatiable Tlaloc , god of rain. As the chil- 
 dren were borne along in open litters, dressed in their festal robes, and 
 decked with the fresh blossoms of spring, they moved the hardest heart 
 to pity, though their cries were drowned in the wild chant of the priests, 
 who read in their tears a favorable augury for their petition. These in- 
 nocent victims were generally bought by the priests of parents who were 
 poor, but who stifled the voice of nature, probably less at the suggestions 
 of poverty than of a wretched superstition. 
 
 When the body of a captive was sacrificed, it was delivered to the 
 warrior who had taken him in battle, and by him, after being dressed, 
 was served up in an entertainment to his friends. This was not the coarse 
 repast of famished cannibals, but a banquet teeming with delicious 
 beverages and delicate viands, prepared with art and attended by both 
 sexes. 
 
 Human sacrifices have been practised by many nations of antiquity, 
 but never by any on a scale to be compared with those in Anahuac. The 
 number of victims immolated on its altars would stagger the faith of the 
 least scrupulous believer. Scarcely any author pretends to estimate the 
 yearly sacrifices throughout the empire (of Montezuma) at less than 
 twenty thousand, and some carry the number as high as fifty thousand ! 
 
 Bishop Zum&rraga, in a letter written a few years after the Conquest, 
 states that 20,000 victims were yearly slaughtered in the capital. 
 
 On great occasions, as the coronation of a king or the consecration of a 
 temple, the number was still more appalling. At the dedication of the 
 great temple of Huitzilopochtli , in 1486, the prisoners, who for some years 
 had been reserved for the purpose, were drawn from all quarters of the 
 capital. They were ranged in files, forming a procession nearly two miles 
 long. The ceremony consumed several days, and seventy thousand 
 captives are said to have perished on this sacrificial stone before the 
 shrine of the terrible deity! 
 
 It was customary to preserve the skulls of the sacrificed, in buildings 
 appropriated to the purpose. The companions of Cortes counted 136,000 
 in one of these edifices 1 
 
 During the siege of the city (comp. p. cxci) the Spaniards on more than 
 one occasion saw their captured comrades led up the winding stair of the 
 great teocalli to the dread stone of sacrifice. The Aztecs took a fiendish 
 
Museum. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 J+2. Route . 303 
 
 delight in torturing them. Their heads were gaudily decorated with 
 coronals of plumes, and they carried fans in their hands. They were 
 urged along by blows, and compelled to take part in dances in honor of 
 the Aztec war-god. The unfortunate captives, then stripped of their sad 
 finery, were stretched, one after another, on the great sacrificial stone. 
 Their bodies were then hurled down the steep stairs of the pyramid, and 
 the mutilated remains were gathered up by the savages beneath, who 
 soon prepared with them the cannibal repast which completed the work 
 of abomination I 
 
 Huitzilopochtli, God of War ( Dios de la Guerra), a huge 
 block of porphyritic basalt covered with crude and repulsive 
 carvings in low relief, was dug up near Chapultepec Castle 
 in 1790, but was re-interred, to be dug up again in 1821 and 
 transferred to the museum. 
 
 “The Aztecs inherited from their predecessors a mild faith on which 
 they engrafted their own mythology and a spirit of unmitigated ferocity. 
 They recognized a supreme Lord of the universe, but the gloomiest super- 
 stitions clouded their minds. The central figure of their savage worship 
 was the monster Huitzilopochtli. This compound parthenogenetic deity, 
 half man and half woman, has puzzled the students of mythological 
 science. The two faces of the sculpture are unlike, and while some believe 
 the figure to represent the Mexican Mars, others call it Teoyaomique — 
 the goddess of death. The record of the sacrifices made to it is appalling, 
 and its known history but adds to its terrible impressiveness. He was 
 the patron deity of the nation; his temples were the most stately and 
 august of the public edifices, and his altars reeked with the blood of 
 human hecatombs in every city of the empire. His fantastic image was 
 loaded with costly ornaments. The most conspicuous was a chain of gold 
 and silver hearts alternate, suspended round his neck, emblematical of 
 the sacrifice in which he most delighted. The huge folds of a serpent, con- 
 sisting of pearls and precious stones, were coiled round his waist, and the 
 same rich materials were profusely sprinkled over his person.” 
 
 “ Huitzilopochtli is compounded of two words — huitzilin, signifying 
 ‘ humming-bird,’ and opochtli/ left,’ from his image having the feathers of 
 this bird in its left foot ; an amiable etymology for so ruffianly a deity. The 
 tradition respecting the origin of this god, or, at least, his appearance on 
 earth, is curious. He was born of a woman. His mother, a devout person, 
 one day in her attendance on the temple, saw a ball of bright-colored 
 feathers floating in the air. She took it and deposited it in her bosom. 
 She soon after found herself pregnant, and the dread deity was born, 
 coming into the world like Minerva, all armed — with a spear in the right 
 hand, a shield in the left, and his head surmounted by a crest of green 
 plumes.” 
 
 At the time of the Spanish invasion this idol was the tutel- 
 ary deity of the Aztecs of Anahuac, but it is supposed to 
 antedate them and to have been the divinity of a rude and 
 barbarous tribe which preceded them. When the astonished 
 Spaniards first saw it, it stood near the sacrificial stone, be- 
 fore the altar of a sanctuary on the summit of the great central 
 teocalli (described at p. clxviii), and its hideousness impressed 
 them greatly. This feeling was accentuated by three human 
 hearts, smoking and almost palpitating as if recently torn 
 from the victims, that were lying on the altar before him. 
 The Spaniards destroyed the teocalli , hurled the idol to the 
 ground and later demolished another temple erected to it in 
 the Aztec suburb of Huitzilopochitli, a word corrupted by the 
 Castilians into Churubusco . (See p. 407.) 
 
304 Route 1$. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Museum . 
 
 Quetzalcoatl (plumed serpent or snake plumage), Cod 
 of Air, is of hard basaltic porphyry with realistic feathers 
 carved in the stone, which is cone-shaped, 3§ ft. high, with 
 the face of a man. It is believed that Quetzalcoatl was not only 
 the most important of the Aztec divinities but was also the 
 central figure of the Toltec mythology. To the latter he was 
 Lord of the Eastern Light and of the Winds. The morning 
 star was his symbol. The word Quetzalcoatl signifies 11 serpent 
 of Quetzaili ” ; its root is quetzal , meaning a species of bird-of- 
 paradise. The tail feathers of this brilliant bird (still found 
 in Southern Mexico and Central America) constituted one 
 of the principal articles of tribute paid to Mexican chiefs. 
 
 “ [Quetzalcoatl is undoubtedly the most interesting of the Aztec mytho- 
 logical figures. During his residence on earth he instructed the natives 
 in husbandry and the arts of government. His influence was most be- 
 nign. Urijder his tutelage the people were happy; the air was filled with 
 intoxicating perfumes and the sweet melody of birds. The halcyon days 
 he spent with his people represented to them the golden age of Anahuac. 
 At his command the earth teemed with fruits and flowers, without the 
 pains of culture. An ear of Indian corn was as much as a man could 
 carry. The cotton, as it grew’, took, of its own accord, the rich dyes 
 of human art. He stood in the same relation to the Aztecs that Confucius 
 did to the Chinese, Buddha to the Hindus and Mahomet to the Mabom- 
 medans. He was said to have been tali in stature, with a wdiite skin, long, 
 dark hair and a flowing beard. He w 7 as born of a virgin in the land of 
 Tula or Tlapallan, in the distant Orient, and in the mythic system of that 
 happy realm he was high priest. Wherever he went all manner of singing 
 birds bore him company, emblems of the whistling breeze. 
 
 “ For some cause, not explained, Quetzalcoatl incurred the wrath of one 
 of the principal gods, and w 7 as compelled to abandon the country. On his 
 way he stopped at the city of Cholula (p. 519), where a temple w-as dedi- 
 cated to his worship, the ruins of which still form one of the most inter- 
 esting relics of antiquity in Mexico. When he reached the shores of the 
 Mexican Gulf, he took leave of his followers, promising that he and his 
 descendants would revisit them hereafter, and then, entering his wizard 
 skiff, made of serpents’ skins, embarked on the great ocean for the fabled 
 land of Tlapallan. The Mexicans looked confidently to his return, and 
 this remarkable tradition, deeply cherished in their hearts, prepared the 
 way for the future success of the Spaniards. 
 
 “A general feeling seems to have prevailed in the time of Montezuma 
 that the period for the return of the deity and the full accomplishment of 
 his promise was near at hand. The day was looked forward to wdth gen- 
 eral confidence throughout the w ide borders of Anahuac. The conviction 
 gained ground from various preternatural occurrences, reported with 
 more or less detail by all the most ancient historians. In 1510 the great 
 lake of Tezcuco, without the occurrence of a tempest or an earthquake, 
 or any other visible cause, became violently agitated, overflowed its 
 banks, anti, pouring into the streets of Mexico, swept off many of the 
 buildings by the fury of its waters. In 1511 one of the turrets of the great 
 temple took fire, equally without an apparent cause, and continued to 
 burn in defiance of all attempts to extinguish it. The following year three 
 comets were seen; and n<pt long before the coming of the Spaniards, a 
 strange light broke forth in the east. It spread broad at its base on the 
 horizon, and rising in a pyramidal form tapered off as it approached the 
 zenith. Low voices were heard in the air, and doleful w r ailings, as if to 
 announce some strange, mysterious calamity! The Aztec monarch, ter- 
 rified at the apparition in the heavens, took counsel of N ezahualpilli. who 
 was a great proficient in the subtle science of astrology. But the royal 
 sage cast a deeper cloud over his spirit by reading in these prodigies the 
 speedy downfall of the empire. 
 
Museum . 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route. 305 
 
 “ Even after the Conquest the tradition that the true Quetzalcoatl would 
 return still lingered among the Indian races, by whom it was as fondly 
 cherished as the advent of their King Sebastian continued to be by the 
 Portuguese, or that of the Messiah by the Jews.” (Prescott.) Comp. 
 Pico de Orizaba, p. 496. 
 
 Tlahuizcalpantecuhtli (Morning Star), or “ light of the 
 morning,” a massive head of hard, greenish diorite, with fea- 
 tures of a strong Eastern cast, is one of the most attractive 
 sculptures in the collection. The expression of the eyes recalls 
 that of the gigantic bronze Buddha at Kamakura (Japan). 
 Beneath this head a mirror has been placed to show the carv- 
 ing on the under side. 
 
 Chac-Mool, or the Tiger King, a noteworthy recumbent 
 figure, exhumed from the Maya (Yucatan) ruins of Chichen- 
 Itza (comp. p. 581), by Dr. and Mrs. Le Plongeon in 1874. 
 Hieroglyphics on ruined buildings in the midst of a dense 
 forest led the indefatigable archaeologists to dig some 25 ft. 
 below the surface of tangled undergrowth, to where the statue 
 lay buried. Without the aid of engines, and by almost super- 
 human efforts the weighty monolith was hauled to the surface, 
 and later brought to the museum. The name given to it by 
 Dr. Le Plongeon is King of the Itzaes. The figure is of trachy- 
 tic tufa, 4J ft. long, 2J ft. broad and 3J ft. high. When found 
 it bore traces of paint on its surface. Similar figures have 
 been found in other parts of the Republic. 
 
 The largest monolith in the room (catalogued as the Mono- 
 lithic Goddess of Teotihuacan) is a colossal piece of am- 
 phibolic trachyte some 10 ft. high and 5 ft. broad, in the 
 form of a squat, thick-lipped woman with a large stone on he r 
 head. She is believed to be an ancient Goddess of Water 
 (diosa de aqua ) from the hieroglyphics on the feet, which rep- 
 resent water. It was found in 1800 in a cave at the foot of the 
 Pyramid of the Moon, at San Juan Teotihuacan (see p. 425), 
 whence its name. The idol is of undoubted antiquity, as 
 many of the carvings are worn smooth by time. Under the 
 collar of stone is a square hole which was once covered with 
 a gold disc, symbolic of the moon. 
 
 Certain of the sculptures in the room command the atten- 
 tion for their excellent workmanship and for the fine quality 
 of the stone — some of which resembles an inferior kind of 
 jadeite or nephrite. The expressions on some of the idol faces 
 are purely Indian, others are manifestly of Hebrew cast, while 
 not a few show strong Egyptian lines. The three stone pil- 
 lars representing human legs of immense size recall certain bits 
 in the stupendous temples of Karnac. In strong contrast to 
 some of the faces on the idols in this room are the Palenque 
 (p. 567) sculptures which are decidedly Ethiopian in character. 
 
 Others suggest Turanian origin or influence, while others 
 yet are so manifestly mongoloid that the inference is un- 
 mistakable. 
 
306 Route 1$. 
 
 MEXICO CITY National Museum . 
 
 At the end (r.) of the Hall of the Monoliths is a small 
 chamber, reconstructed of stones in bas-relief from the Templo 
 de la Cruz , Palenque (p. 567), in the Mex. state of Chiapas: 
 they illustrate priestly rituals of the tribe that made them. 
 The stone at the right was taken to Washington, after its 
 discovery in 1881, but was later returned. The row of interest- 
 ing Maya sculptures, on a raised dais, or wall, at the right, 
 came from Chichen-Itza (p. 581), in Yucatan. Some of them 
 are strikingly Egyptian in aspect. In this part of the room 
 there is a bizarre, disdainful-looking crested figure called La 
 Deidad Estelar Cosmogonica (cosmogonic stellar deity) of 
 the Mayas, from Uxmal (p. 580). The left side of the face is 
 covered with a sort of tattooing, indicating that the artist 
 knew something of this art as practised in Polynesia and 
 Melanesia. 
 
 There are scores of interesting figurines in this end of the 
 room, prominent among them a sculptured, standing figure 
 (found at Coscatlan, in the Mex. state of Puebla) of Coatlicue, 
 the Goddess of Death, with polychrome adornments, bits of 
 turquoise imbedded in the cheeks and a reddish stone in the 
 nostrils. At the r. of this is a male figure of Comaxtli (or 
 Mixcoatl ), a polychromatic representation of the God of War 
 (Dios de la guerra ). from Coscatlan . Note the bone pupils of 
 the eyes and the colored capes which cover the backs of both 
 statuettes. The nearby stone cylinder, incised to form two 
 involved serpents, represents Quetzalcoatl, the God of Air. 
 It was found in the subsoil while excavations were being made 
 for the new National Theatre. In the opposite niche are two 
 other carved figures representing Chicomecoatl, the Goddess 
 of Agriculture (deidad agricola). The melancholy, squatting 
 figure, of basaltic andesite, immediately behind the huge 
 Diosa de Agua (from San Ju&n Teotihuacdn), is the locally 
 celebrated Indio Triste (sad Indian) found in the subsoil (in 
 1791) of the street of the same name (Mex. city), and believed 
 originally to have crowned the summit of the great Aztec 
 Teocalli facing the temples of Tlaloc and Huitzilopocktli. 
 One of the most striking sculptures is one called Tzontemoc, 
 a fine low relief of light-colored argillaceous sandstone (arenisca 
 arcillosilicosa ) from Tepezintla, Tuxpan, Vera Cruz. It repre- 
 sents the Sun God (Dios Sol), Tonaiiuh, in the moment in 
 which (by going beyond the horizon) it is converted into 
 Mictlanteuctli , the God of Death (Dios de los Muertos). 
 
 Before leaving the hall inspect the stone (about 1 ft. thick, 
 5 ft. wide, and 10 ft. long) known by the name Techatl (del 
 Teocalli del Quetzalcoatl), from the Quetzalcoatl Temple, found 
 near the Plaza Mayor in 1901; it is of andesite and, in the 
 opinion of some, is the real Sacrificial Stone of the Aztec 
 Pabas (priests). 
 
 The huge, squat, cat-like figure at the r. of the entrance to 
 
National Museum . MEXICO CITY 
 
 4$. Route. 307 
 
 the hall, the Ocelo ( ocelotl , — tiger) Tezcatlipoca, with a 
 deep, round hole in the spine, was found near the Plaza Mayor 
 in 1901, and is believed to have been an incense burner. 
 
 From the Hall of the Monoliths (monolitos) we cross the 
 patio toward the right (left of the entrance to the patio) to 
 the museum proper. We enter the rooms of Arte Industrial 
 Retrospectivo. On the ground floor there is an extensive col- 
 lection of malachite, jewels, ancient costumes, paintings, 
 vestments, church ornaments, Chinese and other porcelains, 
 inlaid work, quaint old Spanish carved chests, tables and 
 other furniture, musical instruments, specimens of ancient 
 iron work, etc. etc. At the left of the entrance, just within, 
 is an attractive little chapel with paintings, plateresque work, 
 etc. In one of the rooms is the gorgeous state carriage ( car - 
 roza de gala) used by Maximilian; a very elaborate affair, 
 made in Milan, by Cesar e Sala. An old-fashioned carriage 
 used by ex-President Juarez , is also shown. 
 
 The stair to the upper floor is at the left of the patio en- 
 trance. In the suite marked Artes, Industrias, Etnograficas 
 (ethnographic arts and industries), are many specimens of 
 native work: life-size figures of Indian types, war trappings, 
 beadwork, ornaments, etc. One of the 2d foor rooms is given 
 over to a display of highly interesting Codices, conspicuous 
 among them the Lienzo de Tlaxcala depicting scenes in the 
 Spanish Conquest. Many codices cover the walls, and 
 among them are fragments of ancient maps. The Codex 
 Alberto Garcia Granados was made before the Spanish inva- 
 sion, on maguey paper, or American papyrus ; it is a record of 
 instances in the life of the kings of Andhuac immediately prior 
 to the conquest. 
 
 In the Seccion de Arqueologia, on the Third Floor are (at 
 present) many interesting specimens of the fine arts. Near 
 the entrance, in a glass case, there is sometimes shown a 
 serpentine mask of jadeite, turquoise (called la mascarilla de 
 turquesa), and red-shell mosaic said to have been found near 
 Malinaltepec, State of Guerrero, in 1921. The Greek key 
 pattern, in red, is a conspicuous design on the face, which is 
 Asiatic in appearance. The remarkably well executed gold, 
 silver, jadeite, obsidian and copper jewelry and ornaments of 
 the different Indian races are highly interesting. 
 
 In this finest collection in Mexico are representative pieces 
 made by the Maya , Totonaca, Mixteca, Zapoteca , Tolteca , 
 Azteca, Tarasca and other peoples native to Mexico. Certain 
 of the jade and onyx articles are very artistic. Most of them 
 were taken from tombs or pyramids, and they throw con- 
 siderable light on the skill of the native craftsmen before they 
 were influenced by alien ideas. Each specimen is marked with 
 the name of the tribe and the locality whence it came. The 
 yellow gold image of Quetzalcoatl y found at the Pyramid of 
 
MEXICO CITY Museum Pictures . 
 
 308 Route £2. 
 
 Papantla (p. 507), shows a skill in carving equal to that of 
 almost any modern craftsman. Some of the nephrite axes one 
 sees here are astonishingly like those used by certain peoples 
 of the South Seas. Certain of the articles show an amazing 
 similarity to those made the Asiatics, Polynesians, Egyp- 
 tians and Hindus. 
 
 The reproductions of Indian architecture are supplemented 
 by a series of handsome photographs of the finest and best 
 known of the ruined cities of Mexico. An inspection of these 
 pictures gives one an excellent idea of the great extent and 
 beauty of these wonderful archaeological relics. The reproduc- 
 tion, in wood, of the Great Temple of Cempoala (p. 479), 
 in the ancient Totonac town (state of Vera Cruz) of that 
 name (said to have had 23,000 inhabitants, with many temples 
 and palaces), illustrates the civilization which existed there 
 when the Spaniards first came to Mexico. 
 
 The Maximilian relics comprise more than 200 pieces of 
 silver plate (by Cristofle), a marble bath-tub said to have been 
 that of the Empress, halberds used by the imperial guard, 
 porcelain pieces, a saddle used by Maximilian when he was 
 captured at Queretaro May 5, 1867, and many adornments 
 which belonged to the imperial household. Carlota’s piano 
 is here, with a case containing rings, miniatures and other 
 personal belongings. The Benito Juarez relics are of interest 
 chiefly to Mexicans: there is a death mask of the president; 
 pieces of clothing, the bed on which he died, etc. Also similar 
 relics of the patriot Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla . — In one of 
 the rooms is a replica, in chalk, of the celebrated Nestorian 
 Monument, erected by Nestorian missionaries, in the city of 
 Ch’ang-an, Shensi province, China, in a. d. 781, and unearthed 
 there in 1625. — Collections of Mexican birds, coins, postage 
 stamps, etc., are on this floor. In a small room overlooking the 
 patio is a handsome reproduction (by Tomas J ulian F. in the 
 17th century) of the apparition (to Juan Diego, see p. 394 to 
 7) of the Virgin of Guadalupe. The four medallions in the 
 tortoise-shell frame depict incidents in this curious event. 
 Americans will be interested in the old, faded and tattered 
 American and Texas Republic flags, relics of the Alamo and 
 Goliad. The suit of armor worn by Pedro de Alvarado, Cortes’ 
 lieutenant, is perhaps authentic: it has his name cut in it. 
 There are many weapons, etc., supposed to have been used by 
 the conquistador es. The silken standard which Cortes is said 
 to have carried during the Conquest is no doubt a forgery, as 
 the remains of the original banner — along with the sword of 
 the Great Captain — are in the Museo de Artilleria at Madrid. 
 The two garrotes , or instruments for capital punishment, arc 
 indubitably genuine; they are quite Spanish in their suggestion 
 of misery. Likewise various other inquisitional implements 
 hard by. 
 
Picture Gallery. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 1$. Route. 309 
 
 The Collection of Paintings is almost as extensive as that 
 in the San Carlos Gallery. The large oil painting of General 
 Don Porfirio Diaz is by J. Cusachs. In this section are paint- 
 ings of many Mexican presidents, ecclesiastical dignitaries, 
 and other notables associated with Mexican history. The 
 Prisioneros de Guerra, by German Gedovius, depicts an in- 
 cident in the French Intervention, the taking of Oaxaca City, 
 by French troops under Marshall Bazaine. The striking, 
 life-size painting of Maximilian is by Joaquin Ramirez (in 
 1866). Maximilian on Horseback, by A. Beauce (1865). 
 Near by is a portrait of Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon 
 III, and a fine picture of the emperor himself — the calculat- 
 ing cause of the death of the Emperor Maximilian and his 
 unhappy consort. The strikingly attractive picture of the 
 Empress Carlota, by Albert Graefle (in 1865), is the best in 
 Mexico of Maximilian's unfortunate wife. Among the miscel- 
 laneous paintings is one of Fray Pedro de Gante, one of the 
 first Franciscan friars to reach Mexico (1523), and of Fray 
 Juan Suarez , and Fr. Francisco Jimenez , who accompanied 
 him; Fray Andres de Olmos, chaplain of Hernando Cortes; 
 Fr. Bernardino de Sahagun, the celebrated historian; Fr. 
 Alonso de la Vera Cruz, an Augustinian who founded the 
 Colegio de San Pablo in 1575; the celebrated anchorite Gre- 
 gorio Lopez; Fray Diego de Olarte, one-time Governor and 
 Commissioner-General of New Spain; Fr. Esteban de Ursua; 
 Fr. Sancho Meras; Fr. Luis de Morote; Fr. Martin del Cas- 
 tillo; Fr. Antonio Margil de Jesus, a prominent Franciscan 
 of the 17th cent. ; Father Juan Maria de Salvatierra, a founder 
 of many missions; Fr. Junipero Serra, who founded several 
 missions in Monterey; 62 paintings of Viceroys and rulers 
 of New Spain from Hernan Cortes to Juan O’Donoju ; an 
 oil portrait of Hernan Cortes de Monroy (H. Cortes) ; an old 
 painting representing the great conquistador praying tD San 
 Hipolito; one showing him receiving the presents sent by Mon- 
 tezuma to the Spaniards after their landing at Vera Cruz; a 
 picture representing Cuautemoctzin as a prisoner in the hands 
 of the Spaniards after the fall of Tenochtitlan; a painting in 
 oil of the Noche Triste Tree, a noteworthy painting of Sister 
 Juana Jnes de La Cruz; a painting of Juan Jose Eguiara 
 y Equeren (an historian) ; Miguel Velasquez de Lorea, Judge of 
 the Royal Court of La Acordada; Jose V. de Lorea, 2d judge; 
 Jacinto Martinez de Concha, 3d judge; Jose Lopez Portillo; 
 Francisco Javier Clavijero, the celebrated Jesuit historian 
 (1731-1787) ; Manuel Antonio Valdez, editor of one of the first 
 newspapers, La Gaceta de Mexico ; Jose Gomez de la Cortina , 
 a writer (1799-1860); Ignacio Valdivieso y Vidal de Lorea, 
 diplomat (1805-1861) ; the coat-of-arms of the Maximilian 
 Empire; Leonardo Marquez, a Mexican general; Miguel Do- 
 minguez, Mayor of Queretaro at the outbreak of the War for 
 
310 Route 42 . MEXICO CITY San Carlos Academy 
 
 Independence; Agustin de Iturbide, first Mexican Emperor: 
 Felix Fernandez, or Guadalupe Victoria, the first Mexican 
 President; two oil paintings of General Vicente Guerra, a heroic 
 figure in the War for Independence; six cadets who were killed 
 during the American bombardment of Chapultepec Castle in 
 1S47; General Anastasio Bustamante, one of the early Mexican 
 Presidents ; several portraits of General A. L. de Santa A nna, etc 
 In the Salon Alcazar (so-called from the owner of the 
 articles displayed therein) at the left of the zaguan leading 
 from the street into the patio, is a varied and attractive col- 
 lection of porcelains, jewelry, some of Maximilian’s belong- 
 ings, a number of beautiful Chinese, French, and Spanish 
 fans, and a valuable assemblage of watches, snuff boxes, etc. 
 In the collection is a curious little cannon, formerly used as 
 an automatic sun dial; the sun’s rays ignited the powder and 
 fired the piece at high noon. 
 
 Academia Nacional de San Carlos, 
 
 The National Academy of San Carlos, 
 or 
 
 The National Picture Gallery. 
 
 The Academia Nacional de San Carlos (variously known 
 as El Museo Nacional de Pintura y Escultura, La Escuela 
 Nacional de Bellas Artes, and as the National Picture Gallery), 
 founded as the Academia de los Nobles Artes de San Carlos de 
 laNueva Espana , originated in an engraving school established 
 (by Charles III, in 1778) in the old Mint, under the direction of 
 the principal engraver, Gerdnimo Antonio Gil. In 1783 the 
 King endowed it with 12,000 pesos, and in 1791 with a set of 
 casts from the antique which cost $40,000. Coincidently he 
 sent over from Spain Rafael Jimeno (who was assigned to the 
 decoration of a part of the Mex City Cathedral), and the ar- 
 chitect Manuel Tolsa (p. 331), who soon acquired considerable 
 fame in his profession. From the start the Academia exercised 
 a strong influence on the art life of the Crown Colony, and the 
 collection soon grew to be the most complete in America. In 
 1791 the School of the Fine Arts was removed to the present 
 structure — which dates from the 17th cent, and which was 
 erected to house the Hospital de Amor de Dios. 
 
 The Collection of Old Paintings is the most valuable in 
 the Republic and is perhaps one of the oldest on the American 
 continent. The celebrated Reform Laws — which nationalized 
 the church property — enabled the Government to acquire 
 many pictures which the ecclesiastics brought from Europe to 
 adorn churches and sacristies in the Crown Colony; thus add- 
 ing variety and completeness, and enriching the existent col- 
 lection with splendid examples of original work by Murillo , 
 Zurbardn, Rubens , Guido Reni , Juan de Carreno and other 
 
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C. Picture Gallery . MEXICO CITY 42 . Route . 310a 
 
 masters of the trans-Atlantic Schools, beside priceless pro- 
 ductions of the early painters (p. cxxxvii) of the Mexican 
 School. Prominent among the latter are works by Baltazar 
 de Echave (El Viejo), Sebastian Arteaga , Jose Ibarra, Miguel 
 Cabrera, the brothers Juarez, Jose Alzibar, Carlos de Villal- 
 pando , etc. The superb art-collection recently presented to 
 the Government by Sefior Don Alejandro Ruiz de Olavarrieta 
 contained, beside some striking replicas of European pictures, 
 what is believed by many to be a genuine Titian, a chef- 
 d’oeuvre equal to any in the Americas. Other public-spirited 
 citizens from time to time present single pictures or small 
 collections to the Academy, so that the number grows almost 
 constantly. A liberal government is always on the watch for 
 specimens of the rare and valuable pictures which are known 
 to exist in the Republic, and it buys them when the occasion 
 offers. 
 
 Perhaps nowhere are so many of the early painters in Amer- 
 ica represented, and certainly nowhere can the native art and 
 its development be studied to greater advantage. The huge 
 canvases by Echave the Elder, and Cabrera, are usually fas- 
 cinating revelations to the traveller unacquainted with the 
 development of this branch of art in New Spain under the 
 Viceroys, as are also the Murillo - like productions of Jose 
 Ibarra, the admirable pictures of Villalpando and Correa, and 
 the achievements of the grim and varying moods of the in- 
 quisitioner Sebastian de Arteaga. That grand old colorist, 
 Echave El Viejo, has left more than one of his brilliant crea- 
 tions to remind the critical traveller of the great Tiziano 
 Vecellio, and of certain other masters of the European Schools. 
 The paucity of the collection of pictures by early Mexican 
 painters is due to the fact that many of these artists expressed 
 their richest fancies on the walls of churches and convents, 
 many of which were demolished after the Reform Law edict. 
 No less than fifteen huge paintings representing scenes in the 
 life of San Pedro Nolasco, by celebrated Mexican painters, were 
 destroyed in 1862 when the magnificent old convent of La 
 Merced — said to have been the finest example of Italian ar- 
 chitecture in Mexico — was demolished. Others perished with 
 the demolition of the Convento de la Profesa, and the various 
 chapels of the Church of San Francisco , etc. Not a few fine 
 paintings have also been exported. (Comp. p. cxlii.) 
 
 Where possible, a visit to the San Carlos Gallery should be 
 supplemented by an examination of the pictures in the Cath- 
 edral, in the National Museum, those in the beautiful Church 
 of Santa Rosa de Viterbo, at Queretaro (p. 113), as well as in 
 the Chapel of the Last Judgment, in the Church of Nuestra 
 Senora del Carmen, at Celaya (p. 127), where the finest work 
 of the celebrated master, Eduardo' de Tresguerras (called the 
 Mexican Michael Angelo),, can be studied. 
 
310b Route /#. MEXICO CITY S. C. Picture Gallery .. 
 
 Revolutions in Mexico usually are such in the broadest 
 sense of the word, and customarily they bring about many 
 changes. In singular substantiation of the truism that it is 
 an ill wind that blows no one good, the splendid San Carlos 
 Academy often profits by the political unrest which expresses 
 itself in revolutionary outbreaks. During these times, in 
 ways of which the public knows little, valuable pictures disap- 
 pear from cathedrals and parochial churches and when a thor- 
 ough search is made for them they are found hanging in a good 
 light in the San Carlos Galleries! 
 
 These mysterious transfers often give the happiest results, 
 as they preserve Mexico’s art treasures for Mexico. For it is 
 well known that once within the sacrosanct portals of this 
 place, the utmost vigilance prevails to keep them there. This 
 was exemplified during the Carranza period, wdien one high 
 in command, on the eve of departing for Vera Cruz, then 
 Europe, with a goodly part of the national funds, bethought 
 him to pack up the most priceless of the gallery’s possessions 
 and take them along. They were duly boxed and marked for 
 shipment on the morrow, but in the still watches of the night 
 a San Carlos official unpacked them, replaced the fine paint- 
 ings with worthless ones, and blithely forwarded the shipment 
 to its destination! 
 
 Pictures of purely historical interest, of viceroys, early mis- 
 sionaries, friars, presidents, emperors, etc., and others of a 
 similar nature, are to be found in the art department of the 
 National Museum — which possesses a collection almost as 
 extensive as that of San Carlos. 
 
 Revolutions and minor political upheavals also at times 
 cause private collections to be broken up or sold, or scattered. 
 When pictures belonging to such do not leave Mexico, they 
 often find their way to the fine antique stores of the capital, 
 and there the traveller may sometimes find remarkable val- 
 ues. 
 
 Pictures bought of churchmen who sometimes approach 
 strangers inspecting cathedrals, and offer paintings for sale, 
 often prove troublesome, as they may have been stolen, they 
 may not belong to the man who sells them, and their exporta- 
 tion may be forbidden. 
 
 From an architectural view-point, the low, squat, two- 
 storied building, which faces the Calle de la Academia (at the 
 rear of the National Palace), long known as the Calle de Cor- 
 reo Mayor , is destitute of merit. The huge, boss-studded doors 
 are interesting relics of the old days, but the zaguan and patio 
 are gloomy; the latter ill-fitted for the replicas of statuary 
 which it contains. The rooms (upstairs) were never intended 
 to house an art collection, and they are not particularly adapted 
 to their present purpose. The occasional endowment of private 
 collections, and various new acquisitions, render structural 
 
S.C. Picture Gallery. MEXICO CITY Jfi. Route . 310c 
 
 alterations necessary from time to time, so that the present 
 arrangement is avowedly temporary: this not only with 
 regard to the rooms and the house, but also the arrangement 
 and numbering of the pictures. At present certain of the 
 pictures bear several numbers, and these are apt to change. 
 Recently the titles of several of the pictures have been altered, 
 and certain paintings long thought to be originals are now 
 classified as copies ( copias ). A catalogue is in preparation. 
 
 The rooms are open free, daily, between 10 and 1. Closed 
 Saturday, which is cleaning day; and sometimes Monday. 
 Visitors are asked to sign their names in a book, just within 
 the entrance to the first gallery. On feast-days the rooms are 
 apt to be crowded with the proletariat. The rooms on the 
 lower floor, as well as some of those on the second floor, are used 
 as offices, studios, class-rooms, and for storing old or unclassi- 
 fied pictures. 
 
 We enter the patio , cross it, ascend the wide stairs, and on 
 reaching the upper landing, turn to the right. The entrance to 
 the gallery is near the entering angle of the corridor. Visitors 
 are supposed to traverse the gallery and come out at the exit, 
 which is at the left of the stairs. 
 
 The most important pictures usually bear the title and the 
 name of the painter, and can readily be distinguished. Others 
 bear the name of the school to which they belong, and the 
 date. Those paintings in which the traveller is most likely to 
 be interested are listed hereinafter. 
 
 Principal Paintings in the San Carlos Academy. 
 
 Early Mexican School ( Pintura Colonial Mexicana). Room 
 i (see the Plan) contains (at present) paintings classified 
 under the Mexican Colonial Period. In this (and in the ad- 
 joining room) are some of the best paintings extant of 
 
 Baltazar de Echave, el viejo (the elder — often called the 
 Mexican Titian — comp. p. cxlv), a wonderful colorist, a 
 prolific producer, an indefatigable worker, and one of the 
 greatest painters ( pintores ) that ever came from Spain to the 
 New World. He was a master of vivid realism, and he left 
 an indelible impress on the art of painting (el arte de la pintura ) 
 in the Crown Colony. It is greatly to be deplored that speci- 
 mens of his finest work were destroyed with the demolition of 
 churches and convents after the passage of the transcendental 
 Reform Laws ( leyes de la reforma). Among the great canvases 
 here (great in size as well as genius) are: El Martirio de (the 
 martyrdom of) San Lorenzo , now badly defaced but bearing 
 unmistakable traces of a master hand. — La Adoracion de los 
 Reyes (adoration of the kings). — La Visitacion de Maria a 
 Santa Isabel (the Virgin Mary's appearance before Saint 
 Isabelle — 2 pictures). — La Sagrada Familia (the Holy 
 Family). — La Oracion del Huerto (Oration in the Garden). — 
 
310d Route 42. MEXICO CITY S. C . Picture Gallery. 
 
 Martirio de San Aproniano. — Other pictures by Echave will 
 be found in Room 2. 
 
 Luis Juarez (comp. p. cxlviii). Los Deposorios de Santa 
 Catarina (affirmation of St. Catherine). — La Oracion del 
 Huerto. — La Anunciacion. San Ildefonso recibe la casulla 
 de manos de la Virgen (St. Alphonsus receives the chasuble 
 from the hands of the Virgin). There is another larger and better 
 painting of the same event in this room, by the same artist. 
 
 Juan (or Jose) Rodriguez Juarez (comp. p. cl), a painter 
 who produced works of great dignity and impressiveness, and 
 who was called the ‘Mexican Carracci’ ( Anibale Carracci , 
 an Italian painter of the Bolognese School, b. 1560, d. 1609). 
 His delineation of saints was masterly, and some of his work is 
 singularly attractive. He can be studied to better advantage 
 in the Mexico City Cathedral, in the Capilla de los Santos 
 Reyes , where his masterpiece, La Adoracion de los Reyes 
 Magos (adoration of the holy kings) can be seen. Also in the 
 Jesuit Church of Tepozotlan , described at p. 136. — Santa 
 Ana con la Virgen Maria Nina (St. Anne with the Virgin 
 Child). — San Juan de Dios (St. John of God). — Other 
 paintings by the same artist in other rooms. 
 
 Jose Juarez (comp. p. cxlviii), a student of Baltazar de 
 Echave , el viejo. — Santos Justo y Pastor. — La Adoracidn 
 de los Reyes. 
 
 Sebastian de Arteaga (comp. p. cxlvii), a notary of the 
 Inquisition. — Incredulidad de Santo Tomas (incredulity of 
 St. Thomas). — Los Deposorios de la Virgen , a superb paint- 
 ing of rare sentiment and rich coloring. 
 
 Nicolas Rodriguez Juarez (comp. p. cl). — Retrato del 
 Nino Marques de Santa Cruz. The several small skied paint- 
 ings in this room are of no particular merit. — We now pass to 
 
 Room 2 . — Early, or Colonial Mexican School. Aparicion 
 (apparition) de la Virgen a (to) San Francisco (St. Francis), 
 by Jose Judrez. This fine canvas is regal in coloring and 
 technic. The upper part of the picture is alive with pudgy 
 angelitos, while below a throng of curly, bobbed-haired angels 
 pay homage to the Virgin with the Christ Child in her arms. 
 
 Jose (Maria) Ibarra (comp. p. cl), next to Miguel Cabrera 
 the greatest Mexican painter of the 18th century. — Jesus 
 en Casa de Simdn (Jesus in Simon’s House). — La Samaritana 
 (the Samaritan). — La Mujer del Flujo. — La Mujer Adultera 
 (the adulteress). — The admirable coloring of these paintings 
 (and others of the same artist in other rooms) reveal the 
 reason for calling him the Murillo of New Spain. The warm, 
 harmonious tones of certain of the draperies almost equal 
 those of Murillo. 
 
 Miguel Cabrera (comp. p. cli), La Virgen del Apocalipses 
 (Virgin of the Apocalypse), a huge painting, startling in con- 
 ception and of wonderful coloring, that almost fills the enc 
 
S. C. Picture Gallery . MEXICO CITY 
 
 42 . Route . 311 
 
 of the room. One of the finest examples extant of the works of 
 this master. The wealth of detail (the picture is seen to the 
 best advantage from the opposite end of the room) and the 
 amazing virility of the drawing recall some of the finest Luca 
 Giordano work. The picture dates from about 1760 and is one 
 of the very few remaining specimens of the many huge can- 
 vases painted by this indefatigable Indian — whose finest 
 work perished with the destruction of the Santo Domingo and 
 other Mexico City Conventos. 
 
 San Bernardo Abad (the Abbot St. Bernard). — San 
 Anselmo (St. Anselm). — San Juan Evangelista (St. John 
 the Evangelist), by Baltazar de Echave, el viejo. — Martirio 
 de San Ponciano . — Martirio de San Pedro Arbues. — El 
 Arcangel San Miguel Castigando al Demonio (The Archangel 
 St. Michael chastising the Devil), all by the same painter. 
 His La Porciuncula (the portion, a Franciscan Jubilee, an 
 episode in the life of St. Francis de Asisi) shows the rich, 
 light-proof colors used by this master. They have withstood 
 the glaring sunlight of the Mexican plateau for more than 
 300 years. 
 
 The Retrato (portrait) de una Dama desconocida (of an 
 unknown woman), in this room, attributed to Echave, is more 
 than likely the work of one of his pupils. The small painting, 
 Bautismo de Jesus , is poor; likewise a Martirio de unas Santas 
 (which undoubtedly is a copy by some unskilled artisan). 
 Near this picture is a small Virgen del Carmen, attributed to 
 Cabrera. — The Entierro (entombment) de Cristo, by Baltazar 
 de Echave, el mozo (the younger — see p. cxlviii), is notable 
 for excellent coloring and execution. — Santa Rosalia, by 
 Nicolas Correa. — El Arcangel San Miguel Amparando 
 (succoring) un Nino (a child), by Luis Juarez. — We now 
 proceed to 
 
 Room 3. — The Apoteosis de la Virgin Maria, by B. de 
 Echave, el viejo, is not in his best manner. — A beautiful 
 Santa Catarina, by Juan Correa (an 18th century painter of 
 whom history makes an all too brief mention — see p. cxlix), 
 is worth looking at. (An excellent specimen of his fine work, 
 a Scene from the Apocalypse , is in the cathedral and is re- 
 ferred to at p. 281.) Also the Angels Guarding the Tomb, by 
 C. L. Ribera, painted in 1840. The Latin inscription in the 
 left spandrel says : ‘And she saw two angels in white sitting, one 
 at the head, and one at the feet, where was placed the body 
 of Jesus.’ That in the right spandrel: ‘ And they said unto her, 
 Woman, why do you weep? She said: Because they have borne 
 away my Lord, and I do not know where they have placed 
 him.’ — In this room are various pictures (some of them bold 
 nudes) of the Flemish, Italian, Holland, French, German, and 
 Spanish schools. Conspicuous among them are the 8 small, 
 richly colored paintings (attributed to Jose Ibarra) in a single 
 
312 Route 42. MEXICO CITY S.C. Picture Gallery. 
 
 frame — La Ascendon , La Asuncion , and others representing 
 scenes in the life of the Virgin. — Una Bacante , by Adolfo 
 Lefevre, a generously unclad lady noteworthy for the flesh 
 tint. 
 
 The big picture, El Valle de Mexico visto desde el Cerro de 
 Tenango (The Valley of Mexico seen from Mt. Tenango), 
 is by an Italian artist, Eugenio Landesio (1810-1879), who 
 has several other pictures in this room. — La Adoradon de 
 los Reyes , by Juan Rodriguez Juarez . — Una Odalisca, by 
 Henri Decaisne , of the French school. — La Juerga, by 
 Gonzalo Bilbao , and La Bailadora (the dancer), by Jose 
 Villegas, are good examples of the work of the modern Spanish 
 school. — Likewise Tejiendo las Redes (knitting the nets), by 
 Joaquin Sorolla y Bastida (1860), and the Garden Party, by 
 Eduardo Chicarro y Aguera (1880). El MonaguiUo (the little 
 acolyte), by Jose Benlluire y Gil (1855), is very appealing. 
 
 One of the most Spanish paintings in the room is Una 
 Boda en (a wedding in) Anzo, by Carlos Vasquez (1865). 
 Note that the debonaire bridegroom is flirting with one of the 
 bridesmaids, to the manifest displeasure of the bride to be. 
 
 — The gloomy seascape with fisherwomen in the foreground, 
 at the end of the room, is depressing. 
 
 Room 4 . — Among the many pictures in this room is (twin 
 panels in one frame) La Creadon de la Primera Mujer (crea- 
 tion of the first woman), and La Primera Culpa — Adan y 
 Eva arrojados del Paraiso (the first sin — Adam and Eve 
 thrown out of Paradise) by an unknown Flemish painter. — 
 The striking picture, La Piedad (piety), by Luis de Morales 
 (1509-1586), called The Divine, is repulsive in its hideousness, 
 but this very quality, coupled with the extraordinary coloring 
 (or lack of color), attracts like a magnet. — The Betzabe is a 
 poor copy of one of Rembrandt's pictures. 
 
 Charles !<*, Roi d’ Angleterre, au moment de marcher au 
 supplier, by Jules Starch, is painted with striking fidelity to 
 life. — The Argos y Mercurio is a copy by one of Velasquez. — 
 El Entierro de Cristo, is a copy from Titian s famous painting 
 in the Louvre. — Jesus en Casa de Simon (Jesus in the house 
 of Simon), is a copy of a celebrated picture by Pablo Caqliari 
 Verenose (a celebrated Italian painter, of Verona, 1528-88). 
 
 — Carreras de Carros , by Carlos Vernet (1758-1836). — 
 Carlos III, Rey de Espaha y Emperador de las Indias (king of 
 Spain and emperor of the Indies). The inscription on this (by 
 Mariano Salbador de Maella, court painter to the King in 1792) 
 picture says that he was the founder of the royal and distin- 
 guished order of his august name, and also of the Royal Acad- 
 emy of San Carlos (see p. cxli) in New Spain. — The big 
 painting opposite, is of Carlos ////, Charles the third's son. — 
 El Entierro de Cristo, near by, is a copy (by Jose Villegas ) of 
 the celebrated painting (now in the Vatican) by Miguel Angel 
 
S. C. Picture Gallery. MEXICO CITY 
 
 /$. Route. 313 
 
 Caravagio (Michelangelo, 1569-1609). — A good copy of a 
 Retrato, by Rembrandt , is near this. — Los Borrachos (the 
 drunkards), is a copy of one by Velasquez. We now enter 
 
 Room 5. — At the left end there (usually) hangs a famous 
 painting attributed to Murillo: Don Juan de Austria dando 
 gracias a la Virgen por la victoria de Lepanto (Don John, 
 of Austria ( Felipe El Segundo’s half-brother), giving thanks to 
 the Virgin for the victory at Lepanto — a naval victory 
 gained Oct. 7, 1571, by the Italian and Spanish fleets, under 
 Don Juan of Austria, over the Turks, west of Lepanto). For 
 many years this great picture hung in the Claveria of the 
 Mexico City cathedral. Later it was removed to the S. wall 
 of the E. entrance (see p. 289). During the late revolution it 
 found its way (with others from the cathedral and different 
 churches) to the San Carlos Gallery. It is more likely the work 
 of one of the skilful early Mexican painters, for some of them 
 copied Murillo’s work with embarrassing perfection. — Near 
 this picture is a San Gregorio , and a San Emigdio, both of rich 
 coloring, and both by Andrea Vacaro (of the Naples school). 
 
 San Ildefonso recibe una casulla de manos de la Virgen , by an 
 unknown Flemish painter of the XVII cent. — El Des- 
 cendimiento (Descent from the Cross), a copy of a famous 
 painting (which appalls one by its horror) now in Antwerp, of 
 Peter Paul Rubens (1577-1640). — Laban Apacentando sus 
 Rebanos (Laban — A Syrian, father-in-law of the patriarch 
 Jacob — feeding his flock) is by Jose Ribera , a celebrated 
 Spanish painter (1588-1656) called El Espaholeto. — The 
 picture which sometimes hangs above this one, Batalla de 
 Constantino (battle of Constantine), is supposed to be a copy 
 of one by Rafael (1483-1520). It is noteworthy for its in- 
 tricate detail and beautiful coloring. — San Sebastian , by 
 Bartolome Esteban Murillo (see p. cxli and cl), the brilliant 
 master (1618-1682) of the Escuela Sevillana. Perhaps finer ex- 
 amples of Murillo’s work are the San Juan Bautista (St. John 
 the Baptist) and San Juan de Dios, hard by. The latter is 
 painted in his Third Manner, the former mayhap in his youth. 
 
 A finer expression of Murillo’s unquestioned genius, a 
 glorious Virgin of Bethlehem, a picture which long occupied a 
 place of honor in the room of the Governing Board of the 
 Cathedral (see p. 287), disappeared thence during the revolu- 
 tionary period between 1910-1919, but it is believed that the 
 shrewd padres hid it in the thick walls of the cathedral until 
 all danger to it passed. It was a mere head of the Virgin 
 Mother, but of indescribable winsomeness ; a little sacred gem 
 of painted excellence. 
 
 Retrato de la Reina Dona Mariana de Austria, 2<* Muger de 
 Felipe IV (portrait of the queen Marian of Austria, 2d wife 
 of Philip IV, and who afterwards became a nun), bv Juan 
 Carreno de Mirando (a distinguished Spanish painter, of 
 
314 Route 42 , MEXICO CITY S. C. Picture Gallery. 
 
 Avil£s, b. 1614, d. 1685). He was a pupil of Velasquez (who 
 became court painter, in 1623, to Philip IV), and certain 
 characteristics of that great master (1599-1660) are notice- 
 able in this picture (the best of 5 — 3 in Madrid, 1 in Munich) 
 which, though injured by the intense s unli ght, is valued 
 highly by the Academy. 
 
 San Geronimo , by an anonymous pupil of the Ribera 
 school. — Another San Geronimo is by Alonso Cano (a noted 
 Spanish painter, sculptor and architect, b. 1601, d. 1667). — 
 La Huida a Egipto (the flight into Egypt), by Juan Tiepolo , 
 a Venetian painter ( Giovanni Battista Tiepolo , the last great 
 decorative painter of the Venetian school — 1693-1769) who 
 was called to Spain by Charles III, to execute frescos in the 
 royal palace. — San J uan Bautista Nino (the child St. John 
 the Baptist), by Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres (1780-1867), 
 a celebrated French historical painter who lived in Italy for 
 15 years. — Lot y Sus Hijas (Lot and his Daughters), by 
 Luis Girodel Trioson (1767-1824). — Naturaleza Muerta 
 (Still Life), by Mateo Crezo (Madrid school — 1635-74). — 
 San J uan de Dios , by an unknown painter. — Sagrada Familia 
 (Holy Family), Murillo school. — La Adoradon de los Reyes , 
 by Gerardo Seghers (1591-1661). — Aparidon de Jesus a Santa 
 Catarina de Sena, by an anonymous painter of the Spanish 
 school. — Santa Barbara , by Maximo Stanzioni (Guido Reni , 
 1575-1642, a noted painter of the Bolognese school). A Santa 
 Catarina , by the same author, is nearby. — Aparidon de 
 Jesus a San Luis Gonzaga , by an unknown painter. 
 
 Francisco Zurbaran (see p. cxlvii). Cristo en el Castillo de 
 Emaus (Christ in the Castle at Emmaus — comp. St. Luke, 
 chap. 24, 13th verse), an allegory of Jesus appearing to his 
 apostles after his resurrection. This picture, the gem of the 
 gallery, is perhaps one of the most important paintings ever 
 brought to Mexico. It was painted by Zurbaran (1598-1662) 
 in 1639 and was long the prized possession of the San Agustin 
 Church (now the Biblioteca National). After the Reform 
 Law edicts it was transferred to the National Gallery. For 
 many years it was erroneously believed to have been painted 
 by Sebastian de Arteaga, until a cleansing of the canvas 
 revealed the unmistakable signature of the Spanish master. 
 The seriousness of the composition (somewhat after the manner 
 of Rembrandt), the masterly handling of the colors that pro- 
 duce the extraordinarily beautiful chiaroscuro effect, the 
 marvellous simplicity of the execution, and the gravely tragic 
 face of the Saviour, make a lasting impression on the beholder. 
 The sobriety and dynamic force of an intensely realistic school 
 are manifest in every line of this painting, which radiates 
 genius. Its vitality and suggestiveness are wonderful, and the 
 light-proof colors used on the canvas have aided splendidly to 
 preserve it during the almost 300 years since it was painted. 
 
S. C. Picture Gallery. MEXICO CITY Jp2. Route . 315 
 
 Intense religious enthusiasm is manifest in Zurbardn’s 
 motive. It is a masterful production which the sympathetic 
 person will return to time and again. 
 
 Jesus Despojado de sus Vestiduras (Jesus stripped of his 
 raiment), by Jose Ribera, displays the consummate art of the 
 master. — La Virgen con el Nino en brazos (the Virgin with 
 the Child Jesus in her arms), by Giovanni Battista Salvi Sas- 
 soferrato (an Italian painter — 1605-1685 — called II Sas- 
 soferrato, from the town in which he was born; who devoted 
 himself principally to devotional subjects and Madonnas). A 
 painting which might easily be mistaken for one of the best 
 pictures of Murillo. The lovely face of the Virgin is typically 
 Andalusian, with a sweet winsomeness that goes straight to the 
 heart of the beholder. 
 
 In the immediate vicinity is a Bacanal (Bacchanalian 
 scene — given to the Academy by Don Alejandro Ruiz de 
 Olavarrieta) by Titian (Tiziano Vecelli — -1477-1576), an 
 Italian painter surnamed The Divine. It is believed to have 
 been painted about 1523, yet the fresh and glowing beauty of the 
 woman in the picture is as bewitching now as it was nearly four 
 centuries ago when her rosy and frolicsome person was trans- 
 ferred to the canvas. The coloring, the composition and the 
 masterful execution all suggest sensuous charm, and they show 
 the great Italian at his best. — Apoteosis del Nino Jesus , by 
 Guido Reni. — La Coronacion de la Virgen, by the same 
 artist (both of doubtful origin). 
 
 Rapto de Proserpina, and Banquete de Tereo, by Peter Paul 
 Rubens (1577-1640), two paintings of forceful composition 
 (believed by some to be originals, by others copies), with 
 marvellous touches in plastic effect and with the strength and 
 depth of tone which were characteristic of Rubens in his latest 
 manner. Both pictures are daringly luscious, but happily 
 are saved from pruriency by the strong love of feminine 
 beauty which evidently was the inspiration. Rubens’ masterly 
 treatment of the nude is manifest in these pictures, which are 
 believed to have been painted about 1610. 
 
 Las Siete Virtudes (the Seven Virtues), one of the most 
 striking pictures in the collection, is attributed (perhaps 
 erroneously) to Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519). The worm- 
 eaten ( carcomido ) wood on which the colors are laid bears the 
 marks of centuries, and is badly split; the ashen faces of the 
 women, the central one of which nurses two children, have a 
 strange charm which haunts one. The figure at the left, hold- 
 ing the cross ( cruz ) represents Faith (la fe), the one at the 
 right Hope (la esperanza). — The painting hard by, a San 
 Agustin, is by an unknown artist of the Spanish school. There 
 are a number of paintings of minor note in this room, which 
 connects, by an archway, with 
 
 Room 6. — Modern Mexico (Mejico w.odemo) or the Con- 
 temporary Mexican School is represented here by a painting 
 
316 Route 42. MEXICO CITY S.C. Picture Gallery. 
 
 of The Valley of Mexico (El Valle de Mexico), by J. M. 
 Velasco (1841-1912). — An Autoretrato , by German Gedovius . 
 
 — Galileo , by Felix Parra . — San Luis Gonzaga en la Peste 
 de Roma (during the plague in Rome), by Gonzalo Carrasco . — 
 Another painting by the same artist is Job en el Ester colero 
 (muckheap). — The coloring of El Velorio by Jose Jarra , 
 recalls certain work of Van Dyke . — La Caridad en los 
 'primer os tiempos Cristianos (charity in early Christian days), 
 by Maria Ibarraran y Ponce (1856-1910). — Otelo estrangida 
 a Desdemona (Othello strangles Desdemona), by R. Gonzales 
 Pineda , is striking. — Sacrifido de Isaac, by Santiago Rebull 
 (1828-1902) is well drawn but faulty in coloring. — La Casa 
 sobre el puente (the house on the bridge), by Diego Ribera. — 
 Las Espiritistas (the spiritualists), by Juan Tellez. — Colon 
 (Columbus), by Jose Obregdn. — Mugeres (women) de Ex- 
 tremadura, by Juan Tellez. — San Bartolome, by Felipe 
 Gutierrez (1824-1902). 
 
 The Episodio de la Conquista (an episode of the Conquest), 
 by Felix Parra (1845), is one of several striking paintings of a 
 transcendental event which Mexican painters have failed 
 properly to appreciate. — Bodegdn, a noteworthy painting of 
 still life, is by the same artist. — - A large and noteworthy pic- 
 ture b\ r Peiegrin Clave (of the modern Spanish school), is 
 La Locura (insanity) de Isabel de Portugal (the wife of Charles 
 V), a canvas which formerly bore the title Young Isabella the 
 Catholic, at the side of her suffering mother. It is a large 
 painting with a wealth of detail, and of harmonious coloring. — 
 Muerte de Atala 1 (Death of Atala), by Luis Monroy , painter 
 of a famous picture (Roman Charity) in the adjoining room. 
 
 — San Gerdnimo , by Felipe Gutierrez . — Dante y Virgilio , by 
 Rafael Flores. — Jesus y los Disdpulos de Emaus , by Ramdn 
 Sagredo , is a theme inspired by the Christ in the Castle of 
 Emmaus, described hereinbefore. — El Valle de Mexico, by 
 J. M. Velasco. 
 
 Room 7 contains but little to interest the visitor: the pic- 
 tures are of no particular merit. 
 
 Room 8 contains the striking Fray Bartolome de las 
 Casas (Protector of the Indians), by Felix Parra (1845); 
 another of the thrilling episodes of the Conquest. — Equalty 
 noteworthy is the fine El Senado de Tlaxcala, by Rodrigo 
 Gutierrez , a splendid picture illustrating one of the great 
 historical incidents of the Spanish invasion; the Senate of the 
 
 1 Atala, the heroine of Chateaubriand’s celebrated romance (printed for 
 the first time in Le Mercure de France, in 1801), is a favorite character with 
 many readers. The daughter of a North American Indian chief, she falls in 
 love with Chactas, the chief of another tribe, who is a prisoner. She de- 
 livers him from death, and flies into the desert with him. She has been 
 brought uo in the Christian faith and vowed to virginity by her mother, 
 and is faithful to this vow through incredible temptations; she finally 
 pohsons herself in despairing fanaticism. 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 Ave. 5 de Mayo. 
 
 42. Route . 317 
 
 ancient Kingdom of Tlaxcala (comp. p. 429), being urged by 
 its blind leader, Xicotencatl to decide on its policy toward the 
 invaders. — Hard by is the equally striking and celebrated 
 Descubrimiento dei Pulque (discovery of pulque, see p. 
 lxxxv), an allegorical representation of La Reina Xochitl, the 
 beautiful daughter of Papantzin , presenting the first cup of 
 pulque to King Tepancaltzin (of the Toltecs). 
 
 At the end of the room is the yet more famous Suplicio de 
 (torture of) Cuauhtemoc (see p. 377), by Leandro Izaguirre 
 (1867), a splendid painting illustrating Montezuma’s successor 
 being tortured by the Spaniards in an effort to find the hiding 
 place of the Aztec treasure. — La Sagrada Familia (the Holy 
 Family'), by Rafael Flores. — Jesus Servido por los Angeles , 
 by the same artist. Both pictures lack depth and sentiment. — 
 Jesus Crucificado, by Santiago Rebull — El Sueno del Marhr 
 (the martyr’s dream), by Jose Maria Ibarraran. A striking 
 picture is the San Carlos Borromeo , by J ose Salome Pina . 
 
 La Caridad Romana (Roman charity), is one of the best known 
 of Luis Monroy's many pictures. (The idea for this picture 
 manifestly was copied from The Chinese Repository, Vol. YI, 
 the Twenty-four Filials.) 
 
 Points of Interest between the Plaza Mayor and the Ala- 
 meda, and in the Northern and Western Quarters of the 
 City. 
 
 Avenida Cinco de Mayo. Church of La Profesa. Hotel Iturbide. 
 Calle de Gante. Church of San Francisco. House of Iiles. 
 Church of San Felipe de Jesus, Santa Brigida. National Theatre. 
 The Al\med\, Commercial Museum. Post-Office. School of Mines. 
 Public Works. Casa Manrique. Churches of Santa Clara, San 
 Lorenzo, La Concepcion, and Santa Maria de los Angeles. Jam) in 
 and Church of San Juan de Dios. Churches of Santa Vera Cruz, San 
 Diego and San Hip6lito. Church and Panteon de San Fernando. 
 Calles del Puente de Alvarado. House of Marshal Bazaine. 1 ivou 
 del Eliseo. Church of San Cosme. Colonia de Santa Maria. 1n- 
 stituto Geologico Nacional. Casa de los Mascarones. The Eng- 
 lish, American and Spanish Cemeteries. 
 
 The Avenida Cinco de Mayo (Fifth of May), a short avenue 
 (PI. G, 4) running E. and W., reaching from the Plaza Mayor 
 (Calle Monte de Piedad ) to the splendid new National Thea- 
 tre (Calle del Tedtro Nacional ), is one of the most impressive 
 1 of the city streets — an epitome of the wonderful progress 
 ! made during the last few decades. It was formerly known as 
 Alcaiceria (a sort of market-place for raw-silk). W hen in 1862 
 a project was under discussion to re-name some of the city 
 streets, there occurred (May 5) the famous battle of Puebla 
 and the French retreat therefrom. Albeit the street was then 
 unfinished — in process of being cut through the grounds of 
 the Convento de la Profesa — it was decided to commemorate 
 the victory over Napoleon by calling the new street Cinco de 
 Mayo. 
 
318 Route Jfi. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Jesuit Order. 
 
 Among the finest buildings which face this avenida is the 
 Edifido de los Ferrocarriles Nacionales (the general head- 
 quarters, ticket offices, etc., of the National Railway Lines), 
 the work of Ingeniero Don Isidoro Diaz Lombardo; and el 
 edifido La Mutua (the Mutual Life building, of the Mutual 
 Life Ins. Co.), at the lower end of the avenue, overlooking the 
 fine Tedtro Nacional. The big Bank of Montreal is housed 
 in this structure, as are a number of foreign offices. The 
 Mutual building was erected after the rapid American fashion, 
 by American workmen, and with materials brought from the 
 United States. It was the first completely modem office 
 building to be erected in the city, and it dates from 1906. 
 Some of the best bookstores ( librerias ) in the city are located 
 in the avenue, which is rapidly acquiring prominence as a 
 business centre. It is one of the cleanest and best-cared for 
 avenues in the city, and also one of the best lighted. The beau- 
 tiful House of Tiles, which fronts on the Avenida Madero , runs 
 back to Cinco de Mayo, and lends artistic charm and pictur- 
 esqueness to that section of the thoroughfare. 
 
 The Church of La Profesa, which with its leaning tower 
 overlooks the Ave. Madero and neighborhood (PL G, 4), 
 sometimes called Oratorio de San Felipe Neri, and the Church 
 of San Jose El Real , was founded in 1595 by the religious 
 order of the Compania de Jesus (with a legacy of $4,000 
 left by Her nan Nunez de Obregon) and it was long the Jesuit 
 stronghold in New Spain. The corner-stone was laid July 6, 
 1597, and soon thereafter Juan Ruiz de Rivera (Treasurer of 
 the Mint) and his wife Doha Juana Gutierrez contributed 
 $50,000 toward its completion. For many years the chosen 
 temple of the wealth and aristocracy of the vice-regal capital, 
 it has perhaps been the subject of more acrimonious discussion 
 and litigation than any other religious structure in Mexico. 
 From the period of its inception, the militant Jesuit 1 Brothers 
 were at odds with rival ecclesiastical orders, and this bitter- 
 ness culminated (nearly two centuries later) in the expulsion of 
 the Jesuits from Mexico. The city archives contain one small 
 department filled with correspondence which passed between 
 the King of Spain, the Pope at Rome, and the ecclesiastical 
 powers in Mexico relating to this ch. and its founders, and 
 not a little of it is strangety at variance with the humility 
 and resignation preached by Him in whose name the ch. was 
 founded. As if in derision of the whole affair, the great flood 
 of 1629 brought millions of tons of silt into the city, and with 
 the subsidence of the waters, the floor of the ch. was found 
 
 1 The Order of the Jesuits (Society of Jesus) was founded in France, Aug. 
 15, 1534, by Ionatius de Loyola , and was recognized by a papal decree of 
 Pope Paul III. Sept. 27, 1546. Loyola was born at Santa Casa, in the 
 Basque Province of Spain, in 1491. He died in Rome, July 31, 1556, was 
 beatified in 1609, and canonized in 1662. Maria Ana of Austria, wife of 
 Philip IV, founded a convent in 1681 to enclose the house where Loyola 
 was born, and this spct is still the centre of a great annual pilgrimage — 
 July 31. 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route. 319 
 
 covered with filth, and several feet below the raised street 
 level. For many years a flight of steps were necessary to 
 descend from the sidewalk to the ch. floor. In 1771 the prop- 
 erty passed into Government hands and was later transferred 
 to the Order of San Felipe Neri. 
 
 The large monastery which once surrounded this ch. was 
 i celebrated in Mexico for its splendid mural paintings, the work 
 of Miguel Cabrera (p. cli). The Oratorio of San F. Neri, as 
 the old cloister was called, was a magnificent edifice; the Hall 
 of Exercises (the work of Manuel Tolsa) was known through- 
 out Mexico for its beautiful chapel, adorned with sculptures and 
 mural paintings. Several fine pictures of the Seville School 
 were rescued from this building when it was partly demolished 
 during the riots of 1859-61 (wholly so at the end of 1861), 
 and are now in the Academy of Fine Arts at Mex. City. The 
 fine series of mural pictures illustrating passages in the life 
 of San Ignacio de Loyola perished. 
 
 The ch. attracts the attention of visitors because it is de- 
 cidedly out of the perpendicular. It has been slowly sinking 
 for years, but engineers consider it safe. The fagade, and the 
 towers, one of which is decidedly oblique and badly cracked, 
 are good examples of 17th century Colonial architecture. The 
 arabesques, statues and bas-reliefs of the E. entrance show 
 the marks of time. The proportions of the structure, sur- 
 mounted by an octagonal dome and two squat towers, are 
 ! seen to great disadvantage because of the narrow streets and 
 I the proximity of the tall houses. 
 
 The over-decorated interior, with its many altars, its splendid 
 clustered piers and swinging lamps, is made more sombre by 
 the tapestries which are stretched over the windows, and 
 through which the light has to pass. These tapestries are in 
 themselves attractive, but the gloom forbids one seeing, 
 advantageously, the many small paintings skied above the 
 tall altars. Two rows of four pilasters with gilded capitals 
 (cleaned and re-gilded in 1906) divide the interior into three 
 narrow naves, and support the high vaulted ceilings. The 
 8 frescoes of the Seven Sacraments and the Adoration of the 
 Cross, in the cimborio , are by Pelegrin Clave and his adept 
 pupils, Felipe Castro, Jose Ramirez and Petronilo Monroy } 
 all students of the Academia de Bellas Artes. 
 
 The sacristy, to the r. of the main altar, contains nothing 
 worth seeing. Hard by the entrance to this is that of the 
 | Oratorio , which contains a few pictures of no merit. In the 
 pasillo leading to this are some weather-beaten allegorical 
 paintings by Jose de Paez, with the date 1774. To the 1. of 
 the entrance, high above an attractive iron reja, is a good As- 
 sumption of the Virgin , evidently by some student of the 
 Murillo School. The two silver holy-water basins are relics of 
 the time when this church possessed many beautiful silver 
 
320 Route J&. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 CaUe de Garde . 
 
 utensils. The huge silver lamp, which once swung before the 
 altar of La Santisima Trinidad , was made by Jose Maria Ro~ 
 dallega (in 1793), a celebrated silversmith of his time. This 
 altar was dedicated in 1732 and cost $11,109.50. The Altar 
 del Santo Cristo (dedicated in 1712) is sometimes called La 
 Buena Muerte from a figure of the Redeemer that once be- 
 longed to a religious foundation of that name which was 
 established in the Calle de la Profesa during the early years 
 of the existence of the ch. A noteworthy ceremony, that of 
 the Tres Horas (three hours), — an exercise consecrated to 
 the memory of the three hours that Christ remained on the 
 cross, — is enacted in this ch. on Palm Sunday from 3 to 6 
 p. m. It owes its introduction in Mexico to Fray Domingo 
 Perez de Bar da, founder of the Colegio de San Miguel de Belen, 
 described at p. 369. Solemn functions in honor of Our Lady of 
 Carmen are also features of this ch. 
 
 The Hotel Iturbide (PI. G,4), on the Ave. Francisco 
 Madero, with an entrance on the Calle de Gante and one on 
 the 3d Calle Bolivar (the latter through the Hotel San Carlos), 
 is a vast edifice (dating from the 18th cent.) in the Renaissance 
 style, erected by the widow of the Marquis San Mateo Val- 
 paraiso. It was the one-time residence (1821-23) of the first 
 Mexican Emperor (after the War for Independence) Agustin 
 de Iturbide, and was then known as El Palacio de Iturbide. 
 
 In 1855 the building was opened (by Anselmo Zurutuza) 
 as an hotel. It is a somewhat gloomy structure with a fine 
 central patio and several smaller courts. Thirteen slen- 
 der Doric columns and their superimposed arches are the 
 conspicuous features of the north court. The Sonora News 
 Company, an American corporation long established in 
 Mexico, and with fine art rooms, now occupies most of the 
 lower floor of the building in what perhaps at one time was the 
 Emperor's private office. 
 
 The Calle de Gante, a short but wide street which trends 
 southward from the Avenida de Madero , derives its name from 
 the good Franciscan Friar , Pedro de Gante (Ghent), a noble- 
 hearted man who devoted his life to the uplifting of the in- 
 habitants of New Spain. He founded the School of San Fran- 
 cisco wherein every year for more than half a century upward 
 of a thousand indigent children were cared for and educated. 
 To these street waifs he taught religion, science, music, paint- 
 ing and certain of the humbler crafts, and many of the native 
 workmen to-day owe their inheritance to the indefatigable 
 efforts of this zealous and self-denying priest. He built a mag- 
 nificent church (San Frandsco , comp. p. 321), a hospital, and 
 a school, and he made himself and his co-workers the centre 
 whence an incalculable influence for good was radiated. It is 
 one of the liveliest streets in the W. quarter of the city. The 
 Methodist Episcopal Church, the W. entrance to the Hotel 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 Jfi. Route. 321 
 
 Iturbide and a number of small shops are located here. From 
 the roof of any of the buildings a fine view of the dome of the 
 old Franciscan Church may be had. This ch. was once the 
 focus of Spanish ecclesiastical power in the New World. The 
 cutting of the street through the convent grounds was in retali- 
 ation for a revolutionary movement planned (1861) by the 
 friars of the Order of San Francisco. It entailed the destruction 
 of a handsome chapel dedicated to the Purisima Concepcion de 
 Maria Santisima; on the walls of this chapel (erected in 1629) 
 were some fine paintings by Baltazar de Echave, el Viejo 
 (p. cxlv), representing scenes in the life of San Francisco de 
 Asfs. Prior to the erection of the convent a narrow street 
 existed here, but it was enclosed by the wall of the institution 
 early in 1800. Many monks and nuns lie buried beneath the 
 street, and whenever workmen dig far below the surface, the 
 bones of long-defunct ecclesiastics are turned up. On the site 
 of the house No. 4, there stood, in 1655, a celebrated structure, 
 sometime the residence of the Duke and Duchess of Albu- 
 querque , of Don Francisco de Cordova and of the renowned 
 Alonso de Avila. During the incumbency of the 21st Viceroy, 
 Francisco Fernandez de la Cueva (Duke of Albuquerque ), this 
 house was the rendezvous of the wealth and fashion of the 
 Colonial city. 
 
 The Church of San Francisco (PI. G, 4), with the entrance 
 facing the avenida F. I. Madero , was founded in 1524 by the 
 Franciscan friars who established the first religious order in 
 New Spain. Historically it is the most interesting ch. in the 
 Republic. Though now but a mere shadow of its former 
 greatness; clipped by commerce, officialdom and greed; so 
 hemmed in by modern buildings as to be almost invisible 
 from the street, it is still a sturdy — though sadly maimed — 
 relic of the glittering vice-regal days which followed on the 
 heels of the Conquest. The edifice and the conventual build- 
 ings which once clustered near it were begun with money 
 supplied by Hernan Cortes , and on land given by him — 
 land which was the site of the zoological garden of the Aztec 
 imperial household. The building materials were taken mostly 
 from the great Teocalli of Huitzilopochtli, which was demol- 
 ished by the invaders in 1523. For many years after its in- 
 ception the ch. was the centre of the Catholic religion in the 
 New World. Under the able management of the zealous and 
 indefatigable Fray Pedro de Gante the organization prospered ; 
 dependencies were established; convents and converts were 
 added, and in time it became the most powerful religious arm 
 of the Church in the Crown Colony. From it sprang the first 
 Indian school and the first theological seminary. Here the 
 art of painting was first taught by Spaniards in the New 
 World; here the first Concilium Mexicanum took place; here 
 Cortes listened to mass, and here his bones rested from 1629 to 
 
322 Route I>2. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 1794. A long line of peruked and bespangled viceroys and 
 vice-regal retainers worshipped here during three centuries of 
 Spanish rule, and here, on Oct. 27, 1821, the first Te Deum was 
 sung for the Independence of Mexico, and for the then popular 
 hero, Agustin de Iturbide. Funeral sendees over Iturbide’s re- 
 mains were celebrated here Oct. 24, 25, and 26, 1838, and the 
 body was exposed for three days on a magnificent catafalque, 
 beneath the main cupola. 
 
 When finally completed (200 years after its inception) the 
 vast establishment (dedicated in 1716) comprised the main 
 church, eleven chapels and nine dormitories with 300 cells; 
 the walls which enclosed these extended over two entire city 
 blocks. It embraced a large share of the property which now 
 flanks the W. terminus of the Avenida de F. I. Madero (at 
 the N.), the Ave. 16 de Septiembre (at the S.), the Colie de 
 Gante (at the E.), and the Calle de San Juan de Letran (at the 
 W.) where the main entrance was located. It was the largest 
 ecclesiastical establishment in Mexico. This vast property 
 remained intact until 1811, when in an effort to convert the 
 straggling city into a compact and regular one, streets and 
 lanes were cut through the outer edges of the estate. The 
 interior walls of the great cloister were adorned with superb 
 mural paintings illustrating episodes in the life of San Sebas- 
 tian de Aparicio , with texts setting forth his virtues. The 
 vast atrium and court were paved with flag-stones taken 
 from the steps of the teocalli which “the heroic Spaniard’s 
 unrelenting sword” wrested from the Aztec pabas. Some of 
 the finest work of Baltazar de Echave the Elder adorned the 
 convent walls, the upper floor of which was richly decorated 
 with mural paintings of scenes in the life of San Buenaven- 
 tura. At the head of the great stairway which led to the second 
 floor was a painting of the Patriarch San Jose , valued at three 
 thousand pesos — a large sum in those days. 
 
 Oddly enough, the first religious order to establish itself in 
 Mexico was the first to come under the ban of a watchful 
 Government, and to prove a potent factor in the Reform Laws 
 which resulted in the nationalization of Church property in 
 Mexico. A plot against President Comonfort was discovered 
 in the Franciscan monastery Sept. 15, 1S56, and two days 
 later the latter was suppressed. In retaliation for the eccle- 
 siastical secession a street called ! ndependencia (changed in 
 1908 to Avenida 16 de Septiembre ) was cut through the con- 
 vent grounds. Five months later a monster petition was sub- 
 mitted to the President, begging him to allow the friars to 
 reopen the convent. This request was granted, with restric- 
 tions. June 12, 1859, President Juarez signed (in Vera Cruz) 
 the famous Leges de Reforma which aimed at the sequestra- 
 tion and nationalization of all Church property. This law 
 became effective in Mexico City Dec 28, 1860, and in Jan., 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route. 323 
 
 1861 , religious orders were suppressed. The vast property of the 
 Franciscans was sold and the money obtained ($317,174.40) 
 was divided among orphan asylums, hospicios and schools. 
 For many years devout Catholics would not walk the streets 
 cut through the Church property, nor would any of these 
 possess a foot of the sequestrated land. In 1869 one of the 
 largest chapels was secured by the Protestants, who opened 
 therein their first church in Mexico. 
 
 The Interior, which is 230 ft. long by 56 ft. wide, is 
 austerely plain, even majestic in its simplicity, and although 
 modernized to a regrettable extent it is a good type of a chaste 
 Christian temple free from the saddening and apparently 
 insatiable greed for sanguinary roods, tinselled altars and the 
 bespangled ornaments which mar so many of the Mexican 
 churches. It is a House of God pervaded by clean and true 
 religious sentiment, devoid of the alleged “ miraculous ” 
 rubbish which appeals to the ignorant only, where the mean 
 and trivial is forgotten, and where the angelic spirits of the 
 good men who founded it centuries ago still brood above it. 
 The main altar, which is modern, is attractive both in motif 
 and decoration. The chief feature of the ch. is the Capilla de 
 la Escala Santa (Chapel of the Holy Stair) to the r. of the 
 entrance: herein a long stairway leads up to a Crucified 
 Saviour, symbolic of Calvary. 
 
 “The largest of the three domes is that of the church 
 proper, 90 ft. above the ground with a lantern 24 ft. higher. 
 The two smaller domes belong to the Balvanera Chapel. The 
 fagade is one of the most charming things in Mexico. Fac- 
 ing the quiet little garden off the busiest street in the great 
 city, it makes a fascinating architectural episode; a fragment 
 of the old-time magnificence that proclaimed the temporal 
 power of the great monastic centre. In general effect it is 
 quite different from the Sagrario design. It is something 
 like forty years later in date than the Sagrario, and is one of the 
 latest examples of the Churrigueresque in the country. And 
 a strikingly elegant example it remains, despite its mutilation 
 by the effacement of all its sculptural work — five statues 
 and eight reliefs — which were an integral part of the decora- 
 tive scheme; their loss weakening the ensemble very materi- 
 ally. The large relief at the apex, devoted to the royal arms, 
 was obliterated at the period when all decorations of the kind 
 were tabooed. With all the florid character of the work, the 
 design has a notable refinement. 
 
 “ It was peculiarly the fate of this great monastery, the seat 
 of the most powerful arm of the Church in New Spain, to pass 
 largely into Protestant ownership. The main ch., with the 
 adjacent Balvanera Chapel, was the source of a most interest- 
 ing attempt to revive in New Spain the most ancient form 
 of Christian worship in Spain itself. This is what is known 
 
324 Route 42. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Franciscan Order . 
 
 as the Mozarabic (‘ mixed with the Arabic ’) Liturgy, the 
 liturgy of the Christianized Arabs in Spain, although it dates 
 far back of the Arabs to the introduction of Christianity itself, 
 and hence is also more appropriately known as the Gothic 
 Liturgy. It was superseded by the Roman Liturgy of the 11th 
 cent., after strenuous popular objection. But it has never 
 passed wholly into disuse in Spain, and is still the liturgy for 
 three churches in Toledo — a relic of the efforts to bring about 
 its general restoration made by the powerful Archbishop 
 Ximenez in 1495. In 1770 the Missa Mothica seu Mozarabica 
 was published in Puebla under the auspices of Archbishop 
 Lorenzana of Mexico and Bishop Fabian y Fuero of Puebla; 
 both were prelates of a strongly Spanish national feeling and 
 they had officiated in high positions in Toledo before coming 
 to Mexico. Their desire was to revive the ancient rite in Mexico, 
 but all their influence could not effect it. The feeling in its 
 favor, however, still survived until, in 1868, a representative 
 of the movement sought the aid of the Protestant Episco- 
 palians in the United States, and a year later ‘ The Church 
 of Jesus in Mexico ; was organized with the purpose of revert- 
 ing to the original creed and liturgy of the Christians in 
 Spain. For a while the movement flourished and several 
 churches and chapels w’ere established in the capital and else- 
 where, with the ancient church of the Franciscans as its cathe- 
 dral. But finally the movement languished, expiring in less 
 than a generation after its birth. Soon thereafter the ch. passed 
 to other hands.’ ’ (Sylvester Baxter.) 
 
 The aristocratic Church of San Felipe de Jesus (see p. 325) 
 flanks the building at the N. 
 
 The Franciscan Order (founded by Saint Francis de Assisi in 1208, 
 approved by Pope Innocent III in 1215 and confirmed by Honorius III 
 in 1223) was introduced into Mexico by 12 friars (sometimes called the 
 Twelve Apostles of Mexico) from the Franciscan Province of San Gabriel, 
 Spain. Their leader was the Superior of the Province, Fray Martin de 
 Valencia, known as the “Father of the Mexican Church.” History notes 
 that he was as zealous as the renowned Fray Martin de Boil, “who with 
 his own hands reduced no less than 170,000 Pagan idols to dust.” Pro- 
 minent among the missionaries was Fray Toribio de Benevente, an eminent 
 chronicler and founder of the church of Cuernavaca. The Indians de- 
 risively called him Motolinia (poor, miserable) “ and with accustomed 
 humility he adopted it as best befitting his deserts.” Fray Francisco 
 Ximenez, author of the first grammar of the Mexican language, was 
 also of the party. The devout company sailed from San Lucar de 
 Barrameda, Jan. 25, 1524, and landed at San Juan de Ulua (Vera 
 Cruz) May 23 of the same year. Thence they walked to the capital, via 
 Texcoco, w'here they were joined by Fray Pedro de Ganle, w’ho had been 
 there for a year engaged in missionary work. Weary, footsore and dusty, 
 these thirteen zealous men walked into Mexico City June 23, 1524, and 
 at once began to dedicate their lives to the uplifting of the inhabitants of 
 the New r World. The influence of certain of them (notably Fray Gante ) 
 for good was incalculable: after the lapse of four centuries it still pulses 
 through the lives of the people, and no one could estimate how* much of 
 the intelligence and refinement of the inhabitants pf to-day is traceable 
 to the indefatigable efforts of this good Flemish friar. 
 
S. Felipe de Jesus. MEXICO CITY 42., Route. 325 
 
 The Church of San Felipe de Jesus, called El Templo 
 Expiatorio de San Felipe de Jesus (expiatory temple of St. 
 Philip of Jesus), faces the Ave. Madero (PL G, 4), occupies 
 the site of two chapels ( Tercer Or den and Nuestra Senora de 
 Ar amazd) of the old Convento de San Francisco (described 
 on p. 321), and is one of the finest and most aristocratic 
 churches of the capital. It was begun in 1886 and completed 
 and dedicated Feb. 3, 1897 (the anniversary of the martyr- 
 dom of its tutelar santo), at a cost of $300,000 (subscribed by 
 states, cities, and individuals — names on stones in wall 
 within), but it was found necessary to renovate it in 1909. 
 
 The exterior is in the severe Romanesque style, chiselled in 
 gray stone, with heavy, oak doors and elaborate iron hinges. 
 The entrance on the right is supposed to be for women, and 
 that on the left for men, but this order is not observed. The 
 cruciform interior, decorated in the estilo Bizantino , would be 
 somewhat gloomy were it not for the preponderance of gold 
 leaf, and the harmonious coloring of the many mural paintings 
 depicting scenes in the life of Christ, the Virgin, and the 
 Apostles. A beautiful painting of San Felipe , staggering be- 
 neath the weight of the cross, with pitying angels in the back- 
 ground, shows above the high altar. The altar itself is a little 
 shimmering gem against a background of stars. The altar at 
 the left of the high altar is dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe; 
 the painting of the Virgin, in a gold frame, is by B. Gallotti . 
 The huge gilt candelabra are striking examples of the excellent 
 work done by the native craftsmen. 
 
 The little chapel at the left of the left entrance, and entered 
 from the outside, is richly decorated and glows with gold and 
 color. It is a perfect miniature church, a single-aisled, dainty 
 little conception bearing the same relation to the parent that 
 a baby rosebud does to a full blown rose. The figurine of the 
 Virgin, at the high altar, is sweet and winsome. The chapel is 
 dedicated to the Immaculate Conception; the mural paintings 
 are of the same order as those in the main church. 
 
 Worshippers bearing the emblem of the Sacred Heart are 
 often seen in this church, where on certain occasions beautiful 
 ceremonies in memory of San Felipe are celebrated. After the 
 service the devotees proceed to the Cathedral and worship at 
 the baptismal font (p. 284) in which the saint was baptized. 
 On July 19 of each year masses are sung in the church (8 to 12) 
 for the repose of the soul of Agustin de Iturbide , Mexico’s first 
 emperor. Every one bearing the name Felipe endeavors to 
 participate in the ceremonies in honor of the protomartyr. 
 
 San Felipe de Jesus (St. Philip of Jesus), known as El Gloriosisimr 
 Mcirtir del Japon (glorious martyr of Japan), was born at Mexico City lr. 
 1575. His parents, Alonso de las Casas and his wife Antonia Martinez 
 were Spanish. When still a youth he went to Japan where, with six 
 Franciscan friars, three Jesuits and 17 Japanese converts to Christianity 
 
326 Route 42 . 
 
 MEXICO CITY Casa de los Azulejos. 
 
 he was killed at Nagasaki, Feb. 5, 1597 r 1 “ Three of the Jesuits who sent 
 multitudes to useless martyrdom were subjected to tortures so frightful 
 that they were forced to deny their faith under the infliction.” It is said 
 that San Felipe endured his sufferings with such saintly fortitude that 
 he was later (Sept. 14. 1627) canonized by a Papal Bull of Pope Urban 
 VIII. Papal delegates from all parts of the civilized world assembled at 
 Rome on this occasion, and splendid processions were held in the mar- 
 tyr’s honor. In 1629 he was declared the Patron Saint of Mexico and 
 New Spain. Prior to the issuance of the Leyes de Reforma , which pro- 
 hibited religious street processions, the anniversary of his martyrdom 
 was one of the most celebrated fiestas of the city. A gorgeous procession 
 was wont to file through the streets from the Franciscan convent, at the 
 Calle de Gante, to tin Cathedral. The first of these processions w as held in 
 1629, and a large painting representing it formerly hung in the chapei 
 dedicated to San Felipe in the Cathedral. Prominent in the picture was 
 the peruked and bespangled Viceroy riding beside the santo's mother. 
 According to the church historian, this lady was so overcome with joy on 
 the occasion that she never recovered from the effect, and died a few 
 days later. 
 
 The Capuchin Order {Or den de las Capuchinas) of which San Felipe 
 was an exponent was founded by Santa Clara in 1406, with the aid of 
 Pope Gregory XII, and it extended to Mexico in 1665; at which time 
 there came four members of the order from Toledo. 
 
 The Casa de los Azulejos (House of Tiles), one of the hand- 
 somest and most interesting manorial houses in Mexico, is the 
 finest example of the M udejar style of architecture — as ap- 
 plied to a secular building — in the Republic, and is perhaps 
 one of the most picturesque colonial houses on the continent. 
 It faces the busy Avenida de F. I. Madero (PL G, 4) and ex- 
 tends back, parallelling the Calle de la Condesa, to the Ave. 
 Cinco de Mayo. This part of the building, of the same design 
 as the facade, was added in 1906. The exterior is entirely 
 covered with blue-and-white Puebla tiles {azulejos) and the 
 effect is singularly attractive and unique. The battlemented 
 roof, with its rows of niches for figurines or saints, contrasts 
 oddly with the modern architecture of the neighborhood. The 
 house was long the home (from 1891 to 1914) of the celebrated 
 Jockey Club , a relic of that onetime organization being the 
 mounted jockey etched on the glass in the transom of the 
 entrance to the patio . 
 
 The building is now occupied by a famous American restau- 
 rant, Sanborn's, which is at once a rendezvous for visiting 
 travellers and a sort of social centre for the best American and 
 Mexican elements in the capital. 
 
 The bright and attractive interior is decorated in the Chur - 
 rigueresque and M udejar styles; the former expressing itself in 
 exuberant carvings on the fine old fountain in the patio, the 
 graceful slender stone pillars, the upper balconies, the door- 
 ways, etc.; and the latter in the polychromatic tiles of the 
 grand stairway and other places. The tiled panels of the stairs 
 
 1 For an understanding of the causes which led to their extermination 
 consult japan, an Interpretation , by Lafcadio Hearn (New \ork, 1905), 
 p. 333 et seq., and Terry’s Guide to tlie Japanese Empire, p. 668. 
 
House of Tiles . 
 
 MEXICO CITY 42 . Route. 326a 
 
 (note those at the r. and 1. of the door on the first landing) 
 carry the armorial bearings of the several occupants of the 
 house during the vice-regal period; the decorations on the 
 patio walls, and the glass roof above, are modern. The lamps 
 on the stairway, adorned with bronze mountings, are Japanese. 
 The fine old tombac (comp. p. 281) railing which runs along 
 the upper corridors on three sides is of Chinese provenience, and 
 is similar to that in the Cathedral. The outstanding motto on 
 the armorial quarterings in the tiled panels of the stairs, is 
 that of Suarez de Peredo: Sola su virtud le ofende, fuerza ajena 
 ni le toca ni le prende — honor is his only concern; no outer 
 force can touch or seize him. 
 
 The history of the Casa de los Azulejos is interesting in that 
 it casts a light upon Mexico’s early relations with Japan and 
 the Philippines (and, by extension, explains the existence in 
 Mexico of .many valuable Chinese and Japanese porcelains in 
 private collections and antique shops). The house is believed 
 to have been built about 1596, by Don Rodrigo de Vivero y 
 Velasco , whose son, Rodrigo de Vivero y Aberrucia was one of 
 the early governors and captains general of the Philippines, 
 and who interested himself in the establishment of commercial 
 relations between Asia and Mexico. While in Manila he suc- 
 ceeded in inducing the Japanese Shogun , Tokugawa Ieyasu 
 (see Terry’s Guide to the Japanese Empire, p. cclxxi) to open 
 the island port of Uraga to Spanish trade, and to make it a 
 port of call for the galleons which plied between Manila and 
 Acapulco. 
 
 To facilitate the interchange of commodities Ieyasu caused 
 Will Adams (a Kentish sailing master who in 1600 became 
 teacher of mathematics and shipbuilding to the Japanese) to 
 fit out a goodly ship to inaugurate the service. This vessel, the 
 San Buenaventura , left Japan Aug. 1st, 1610, and beside 
 carrying valuable gifts for the Viceroy at Mexico, carried also 
 23 Japanese craftsmen who were to exchange their services for 
 those of Spanish or Mexican miners who would teach the Japa- 
 nese how to develop their mines. This group reached Mexico 
 late in 1610 and was followed, in 1614, by an embassy com- 
 posed of 180 Japanese, who arrived at Acapulco Jan. 25th. 
 History records that on reaching Mexico they were housed in 
 the building destined later to be the House of Tiles. Also that 
 they were the forerunners of the rich trade which Mexico car- 
 ried on during many years with the opulent East. 
 
 Because of his activity for Mexico’s welfare, the King of 
 Spain conferred upon Don Rodrigo the title of Count of the 
 Valley of Orizaba. His marriage followed soon thereafter. 
 In due time his son, Luis de Vivero, developed such extrava- 
 gant tastes, and such a distaste for work, that his father applied 
 to him a current Mexican phrase somewhat similar to the 
 English expression: “He will never set the river on fire.” 
 
3266 Route . 1$. MEXICO CITY Santa Brigida. 
 
 “My son,” said Don Rodrigo, on one occasion, “you will 
 never build a house of tiles.” But Doji Luis did. Stung by 
 his father’s prophecy, he applied himself diligently to work, 
 married an estimable lady, became owner of the house in ques- 
 tion, and later rebuilt it and covered it with tiles. 
 
 This house had been acquired by Don Diego Suarez de 
 Peredo, a descendant of Dona Catalina Suarez , the first wife of 
 Reman Cortes. The last member of the Mexican aristocracy 
 who bore this title was Don Antonio Suarez de Peredo Hurtado 
 de Mendoza y Paredes , 10th Court Chamberlain to the Em- 
 press Carlota, during the reign of Maximilian. After the fall 
 of the Empire, the Casa de los Azulejos became the property 
 of the Iturbe family. A number of famous Mexicans have 
 lived in it. It is known to almost every Mexican because of its 
 association with the political turmoil consequent to the so- 
 called revolution of the Acordada, in 1828. On Dec. 4th, of 
 that year, Sergeant Manuel Palacios entered the' House of 
 Tiles just as Count Don Andres Diego Suarez de Peredo was 
 descending the stair, and he there stabbed him to death; later 
 he was executed (publicly shot) in the adjacent Plazuela de 
 Guardiola. 
 
 The flanking Calle de la Condesa (named after the Condesa 
 del Valle de Orizaba) is often referred to by Mexicans because 
 of a whimsical happening therein during the vice-regal days. 
 It is sc narrow that two carriages cannot pass. One da} T two 
 grandees drove into the street, from opposing directions, and 
 met about the middle. The pride of neither would permit him 
 to back out first, so there they sat, for three days and nights to 
 the immense amusement of the proletariat, glaring at one 
 another and suggesting what neither wished to do. When the 
 matter reached the ears of the viceroy he ordered them both 
 to back out simultaneously, and leave the street by the way 
 thev had come. 
 
 The Church of Santa Brigida (St. Bridget), completed 
 Dec. 21, 1744, for the Bridge tine nuns, a small and a newly 
 decorated church with two entrances from the Calle San Juan 
 de Letran (St. John Lateran), is outwardly plain to the verge 
 of austerity, but it is one of the most fashionable churches in 
 the city. Facing the N. entrance is a grotto with a silver- 
 plated reja enclosing the santa to whom the ch. is dedicated. 
 Opposite the S. entrance is a large allegorical painting, the 
 work of G. Carrasco, in 1904. The stained-glass windows are 
 attractive, as is also the motif and decoration of the high 
 altar, at the S. end of the small single nave. The dim old 
 painting immediately over the S. entrance is unsigned and 
 undated, but its age is apparent. A requiem for the repose 
 of the soul of the Emperor Maximilian is sung here on the 
 anniversary of his execution. The dates of other special func- 
 tions are placarded on the doors or near by. 
 
National Theatre . MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route. 326 c 
 
 El Teatro Nacional (the National Theatre), an imposing 
 composite structure (of reinforced concrete inside a marble 
 shell, on a concrete foundation) facing the Ave. Juarez at the 
 E. end of the Alameda (PL G, 4), is perhaps the finest building 
 of its kind on the continent. It is after the plans of the Italian 
 architect Adam Boari , who designed the Central Post Office 
 diagonally across the street ( Calle del Teatro Nacional) from 
 it. It was begun in 1900, and up to 1922 more than 12 millions 
 of pesos had been spent on it. It is estimated that an additional 
 ten millions will be needed to put it in the perfect condition 
 planned for it. The style of architecture is referred to as 
 Sanitario (sanitary) because advanced methods of hospital 
 construction, with rounded corners at entering angles, 
 elimination of dirt-catching moldings, etc., have been followed 
 throughout the building. In reality it is a strikingly harmoni- 
 ous blend of various styles, the dominating note of the exterior, 
 aside from the classic statuary, being a charming ensemble of 
 several indigenous Indian orders — Maya , from Yucatan; 
 Mixtec, from the Mitla Ruins, etc. — as expressed in the 
 statue of Cuauhtemoc, on the Paseo de la Reforma. 
 
 The first impression is that of a commanding mass of shim- 
 mering marble gleaming extraordinarily white and pure in the 
 brilliant sunlight of the high Mexican tableland. Part of this 
 marble came from Carrara (Italy), and part from the locally 
 celebrated Buena Vista quarries, in the Mex. state of Guer- 
 rero. The colored marble is from the Tenango quarry, in 
 Morelos. Spanish and French bronze, American stained glass, 
 advanced construction in German stage machinery, fine 
 cabinet woods from the Mexican forests, and skilled Mexican 
 workmanship have combined to form one of the finest struc- 
 tures in the Mexican capital, and one of the most pleasing in 
 the entire Republic. 
 
 The best bronzes are the work of the (late) Spanish sculptor, 
 Agu'stin Querol . Four of these, two representing music, and 
 two tragedy, each in the form of a Pegasus, which rose from 
 the roof above the stage, were taken hence to pedestals at the 
 four corners of the park in the Plaza Mayor , which they now 
 adorn. Since the theatre was begun it has sunk nearly 4 ft. 
 into the unstable subsoil of the valley, and this uneven quality 
 materially impairs its appearance. Thousands of barrels of 
 fluid concrete have been pumped under it, to form a firmer 
 table for it to rest upon, but this has not stayed the sinking. 
 
 The main entrance is from the Ave. Judrez. The marble 
 walk which leads to it is laid over a series of superimposed 
 pavements which can be removed in layers, so that if the main 
 structure continues to sink, the marble surface can be kept 
 level with it. The squatting figures, near the entrance, uphold- 
 ing banners announcing the functions within (grand opera 
 only), are replicas of the Indio Triste, referred to at p. 306. 
 
326d Route 42 , 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Teatro National 
 
 The larger figures, at the left side of the building, also support- 
 ing banners, are copies of the Indios Verdes (green Indians) 
 which guard the entrance to the Calzada de la Vega (p. 350). 
 
 The twin groups above this, at the r. and 1., represent In- 
 spiration (la inspiration ) and Music (la musica), The group 
 (repousse work — repujado) which surmounts the graceful 
 cupola, or remote (pinnacle) represents the national emblem 
 (the eagle, nopal cactus, etc.); the surrounding figures (the 
 work of the Hungarian sculptor Marotte) suggest Comedy, 
 Tragedy, the Drama, and Lyric Drama. 
 
 At the right and left of the grand pillared entrance (entrada 
 principal ) are lateral, or minor entrances, with beautiful 
 bronze doors: above the one at the r. is a sculptured head of 
 Aztec design and called El Caballero Aguila (gentleman eagle): 
 that at the left is El Caballero Tigre (gentleman tiger). Both 
 are prominent figures in the ancient Indian sculptures. The 
 charming fountains which face these entrances display (at the 
 r.) lovely marble figures (by Querol) of Glory (la gloria ), and 
 ([,) Love (el amor), A similar one adorns the space between the 
 Teatro and the Alameda. 
 
 The translucent ovals above the lateral r. and 1. entrances 
 will carry lights behind them, and signs announcing the opera 
 staged within. The handsome sculptured marble group (the 
 work of the Italian sculptor Leonardo Bistolfi) in the central 
 lunette (luneto principal) typifies Harmony (la armonia); 
 a beautiful nude woman forms the central figure, around 
 which are grouped others that are supposed to express all the 
 human passions. The semicircle of angelitos (little angels) 
 above the lunette typify the orchestra. 
 
 The attractive interior (seating capacity 2,000) at first 
 glimpse appears small compared to the great size of the struc- 
 ture, but it has been intentionally limited, the distance from 
 the stage to the rear wall of the amphitheatre being: the exact 
 limit of the range of the average human voice. The plan is 
 that every person in the theatre may hear distinctly. 
 
 The harmonious group on the plafond of the sala represents 
 Olympia, Apollo, and the Muse. The elaborately decorated 
 lobby contains a winter garden, cafes, smoking rooms, etc. 
 There is a special retiring room for the president of the Re- 
 public, and special boxes above. A subway drive for auto- 
 mobiles runs beneath the foyer, and the operatic stars are 
 taken to a private elevator which carries them up to the door 
 of richly furnished retiring and dressing rooms. The theatre 
 is lined with beautifully tinted Mexican mahogany and other 
 rare and choice woods. The complicated machinery (from 
 Berlin, cost $197,000) which operates the stage (726 sqr. 
 meters) mechanism is moved by electric and hydraulic power. 
 Every foot of the stage floor is movable, and can be lowered, 
 raised or slid backward or forward at will. With the machinery 
 
The Alameda . MEXICO CITY 1$. Route. 327 
 
 It is a marvel of complicated simplicity. Curtains are raised 
 or lowered on hollow steel reels. 
 
 Three balconies rise in tiers above a series of boxes, or 
 palcos; the presidential box ( palco ) is at the central curve. 
 
 The unique and beautiful Curtain ( cortina ) is. of colored 
 glass in an iron frame, was made by Tiffany (cost $47,000 
 American gold), weighs 22 metric tons (1,000 kilograms, or 
 2,204.6 pounds), and was designed by the celebrated (Mexican 
 artist, painter, architect) Dr. Atl ( Gerardo Murillo). The 
 most conspicuous thing in the extraordinarily ornate interior, 
 it represents Mexico’s twin volcanos Popocatepetl (r.) and (1.) 
 Iztaccihuatl , and trees, cacti, flowers and whatnot. By an 
 ingenious system of powerful lights, the volcanos are shown as 
 they appear at dawn, twilight, night, noon, and under varying 
 atmospheric conditions. The effect is singularly beguiling. 
 Special permits for viewing the curtain when illuminated may 
 be obtained from the architectural ingeniero in charge, Mr. 
 A. Munoz G. 
 
 The Alameda, a handsome, sub-tropical park extending 
 southward from the Teatro Nacional (PI. G, 4), was so called 
 because it was first planted with poplar-trees, or alamos. The 
 fine Ave. Juarez parallels it on the S. and that of Miguel 
 Hidalgo y Costilla (fromerly the Ave. de los H ombres Ilustres) 
 on the N.; it is delimned on the W. by the short Calle 
 de San Diego , which in turn is flanked by the old church of the 
 same name. The park is shaped like a huge parallelogram 712 
 ft. wide by 1,483 ft. long, with attractive bronze fountains, 
 several music kiosks, an aviary, some noble eucalyptus, poplar, 
 cypress and pepper-trees, and a wealth of palms and perenni- 
 ally blooming flowers — the latter arranged in parterres to 
 which care is devoted. The aviary, or pajarera, contains a 
 rather limited representation of the hundreds of tropical birds 
 for which Mexico is noted. The picturesque groups of loungers 
 who take the eternal rest-cure on the park benches are not 
 without interest to the traveller. 
 
 At the time of the Conquest the east half of the Alameda was the site of 
 a huge Aztec tianguiz, or market. With the advent of the Dominicans, 
 with their baneful Inquisition, the west half was converted into a spot 
 then known as the Plaza del Quemadero (the burning-place), because of a 
 large stone platform where the Inquisition’s victims were burned or 
 strangled. History has it that this quemadero occupied the exact spot 
 now covered by the pajarera. During his incumbency in office, the 45th 
 Viceroy, Carlos Francisco d,e Croix, conceived the idea of converting a 
 portion of the site into a pleasure-ground. Later, and by the initiative 
 of the 52d Viceroy, Juan Vicente de Guemes Pacheco de Padilla , it was 
 cleaned and made into a sort of fashionable promenade, a portion of it 
 being reserved for a children’s play-ground. Despite efforts to keep it up 
 it remained in a somewhat unkempt state until 1872, when sustained 
 efforts to beautify it were made. — The striking Benito Juarez Monument, 
 which faces the Ave. Juarez midway of the Alemeda, dates from 1910, and 
 was erected to commemorate the hundredth anniversary of Mexican 
 independence. 
 
328 Route 1$. MEXICO CITY Post-Office . 
 
 There is scarcely a day in the year that the park is not 
 bathed in sunshine, and the beautiful music, the handsome 
 toilettes of the charming Spanish and Mexican women, the 
 constant expression of the Southern love of color, and the 
 picturesque costumes of certain of the lower classes render it 
 a very attractive spot — particularly on Sundays and popular 
 feast-days. Trim nurses ( criadas ), wheeling baby-carriages 
 or guarding their toddling charges, frequent the shaded by- 
 ways, and the “ tired squad ” passes the livelong day on the 
 sunny benches which flank the avenues. On certain dias de 
 fiesta rows of booths are established along the N. side, and then 
 native curios and Indian handiwork can be bought at moderate 
 prices. The handsome pergola at the E. end of the Alameda 
 dates from 1909. The park is the favorite early-morning resort 
 of students who pace beneath the giant trees and wrestle 
 with the idiosyncracies of English grammar. 
 
 The Commercial Museum, on the Ave . Juarez opposite the 
 Regis Hotel (PL F. 4), open daily, free, from 9 to 1, is a sort of 
 permanent exposition of natural products. Many of the curious 
 plants, fibres, agricultural, industrial and manufactured 
 products of the Republic are attractively displaj^ed, and 
 special attention is given the visiting merchant or manu- 
 facturer. Very interesting are certain products of the applied 
 arts. Every foreigner who entertains the mistaken notion 
 that the Mexicans make only cheap pottery and wickerware, 
 should visit this exposition. Many of the articles are as beauti- 
 ful as those of any country. Minerals such as opals and other 
 semi-precious objects are on display, along with handsome 
 carved leather, beautiful onyx pieces, tortoise-shell wares, 
 etc. The various products of the Mexican forests are particu- 
 larly noteworthy. — The colored glass picture above the stair 
 landing is copied from Rubens 9 famous Descent from the Cross. 
 
 The Central Post-Office, or Casa de Correos (called also Pala- 
 cio de Correos ) , at the corner of the Calles del Tedtro Nacional 
 and l a Tacuba (PI. G, 4), is the finest example of secular 
 architecture of its kind in the Republic. The corner-stone 
 was laid by President Porfirio Diaz , on the site of the old 
 Escuela de Comercio, Sept. 14, 1902, and the structure (which 
 cost $2,921,009.94) was completed and occupied in Feb., 1907. 
 It is a splendid monument to the constructive ability of 
 Mexican artisans, and to the creative talent of an Italian archi- 
 tect, Adamo Boari — another example of whose excellent 
 work is the adjacent Tedtro Nacional. The Palacio de Correos , 
 which is supposedly fire-proof, is in the Antique Spanish, or 
 Plateresque 1 style, “that brilliant expression of the Spanish 
 spirit in the time of the Catholic Kings and Charles V.” 
 
 1 The estilo plateresco is so called because of the resemblance of its 
 delicate ornamentation to silver-plate and silversmiths’ work. 
 
Correo. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42 . Route. 329 
 
 The pictorial Gothic — of which the early plateresco is 
 merely a metamorphosis enriched by Southern exuberance 
 and virility — shows in the wealth of bosses, finials, crockets 
 and geometrical tracery with which the exterior is profusely 
 embellished. Charmingly blended with the austere but aspir- 
 ing architectural expression of Gaul and Brittany are the 
 delicate touches, the rich flowering of the Alhambraic and the 
 Mudejar styles. In dignity of conception, harmony of orna- 
 mentation and refinement of workmanship, it is noteworthy, 
 as it is likewise for its logical and consecutive treatment, 
 for the classical and felicitous unity of the different orders, 
 and for its lightness, grace and chaste beauty. The designs 
 of the decorative stonework were chiselled into form after the 
 cut stones were placed in their final positions : the equal skill 
 of the small army of artisans who executed the medallion- 
 reliefs, the shields, griffins, garlands, mouldings and minor 
 enrichments is surprising. The various details of the massive 
 structure — which is perhaps on a higher architectural scale 
 than any other secular building in Mexico — are astonishingly 
 perfect. Standing as it does on a spot which will perhaps ere 
 long be the geographical and commercial centre of the modern 
 city, it can scarcely fail to become symbolic of the prescience 
 of the great man who laid not only the corner-stone of this 
 edifice but also that of Mexican progress and enlightenment. 
 
 The bronze fitments are Italian in design and workmanship. 
 The splendid great central doors and the entrance are spe- 
 cially noteworthy. The interior has been made unusually 
 attractive by the liberal use of beautiful Mexican onyx from 
 the Etta quarries. The polychrome flags adorning the interior 
 represent the 56 countries of the Postal Union. 
 
 The private offices of the postmaster-general ( adminisLrador general ) 
 and his subordinates are on the upper floors. The Information Bureau 
 is at the N.-E. corner of the lower, or ground floor: the Receiving Boxes 
 ( buzones ) are directly opposite. Letters for the City and Suburbs 
 should be dropped in the slit marked “ Distrito Federal ' ’ ; those for the 
 Republic in the “ Interior ” ; for the United States, “ Estados U nidos ” ; 
 for Europe or elsewhere, “Exterior.” Above the different windows are 
 the signs: Lista (advertised letters); Poste Restante (General Delivery); 
 Certificacion (registration) ; Giros Postales (postal money-orders); Cor- 
 respondence (letters) ; Bultos Postales (packages) ; Aduana (packages 
 received through the custom-house); Carteros (postmen, or carriers); 
 Caja (cashier) ; Timbres (stamps). 
 
 Printed lists of Advertised Letters (consult also the newspapers) 
 are to be seen in the long, narrow frames beneath the windows. Take 
 the number and date of the list and apply for the letter at the window 
 marked Lista. General Delivery letters are usually held at the correo 
 30 days before being returned to the point of origin, in calling for letters 
 one can facilitate matters by presenting a visiting-card ( tarjeta de 
 visita ) with his name thereon, as English is not always spoken by the 
 employees. Letters which come marked Poste Restante are not advertised. 
 
 A striking example of the modern creative faculty, the su- 
 perb Palacio de Correos is in sharp contrast to the crumbling old 
 
330 Route 42 . 
 
 MEXICO CITY Colegio de Mineria. 
 
 School of Mines , or M ineria, next door on the east. A century 
 ago this structure — the masterpiece of the great Tolsa — was 
 considered the finest secular edifice in the Mexican capital. 
 
 The College of Mines ( Colegio de Mineria ), known also 
 as the Escuela de Inqenieros, or School of Engineers, stands 
 immediately to the east of the Central Post-Office and is one 
 of the most striking edifices in the city. It was erected in 
 1797-1S13 (in the old Aztec precinct of Nilpantongo) after 
 plans drawn by the celebrated architect, Manuel Tolsa. The 
 structure began to crack and sink soon after its completion, 
 and many have been the ideas formulated for its preservation. 
 The first of these was put into practice (in 1830) by the engi- 
 neer, Antonio Villard, who spent 897,000 with no appreciable 
 results. Repairs on the huge structure are almost constantly 
 under way, but the impression one gains is that it is tottering 
 to its fall. The bases of some of the columns and pilasters 
 have sunk considerably below the street level, and certain por- 
 tions of the outer walls are badly cracked and out of plumb. 
 By viewing a section of the building from across the patio of 
 the Post-Office, or running the eye along the wall flanking the 
 Calle de la Condesa, one can get a good idea of its uneven 
 character. 
 
 The Tribunal de Mineria, which was to be housed in the 
 building when completed, was founded May 4, 1777, by Don 
 Velasco de Leon and Lucas de Lasaga, whose aim was to es- 
 tablish a school of mines that would stimulate mining. Maxi- 
 milian endeavored to convert the building into a National 
 Palace. The present school possesses a fine library, some 
 cabinets of geological and mineral specimens, and is equipped 
 with modern appliances. The facade has a frontage of 312 
 feet and is severely classical. The main entrance is adorned 
 with fine Doric and Ionic columns and a balustrade; a line 
 of marble vases carved after Greek designs extends along 
 the roof. Just within the main entrance are several huge me- 
 teorites — the fragments of a colossal meteorite called the 
 Chupaderos (combined weight nearly 25 tons) which was 
 found, in 1581, near the present town of Jimenez, and brought 
 to the City of Mexico in 1893. The placards refer to their 
 history, etc. 
 
 The interior of the building is attractive; it is open all day, 
 free to visitors. The main patio (86J ft. square) is surrounded 
 by fine cloisters and arches supported by 20 bulky pilasters 
 with half Doric columns (below), and 22 pairs of graceful 
 Ionic columns above. There are five smaller patios, or courts. 
 These, and the splendid stairways and galleries, are finely 
 proportioned. The richly decorated chapel contains two ad- 
 mirable ceiling frescoes (by R. Jimeno ) representing the 
 Glory of Mary and the Apparition of the Virgin of Guadalupe. 
 
 The edifice is said to have cost 81,597,435, aside from the 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route. 331 
 
 various amounts spent in an effort to keep it from tumbling 
 down. The average traveller will therefore be inclined to think 
 that Tolsa’s real genius lay in his ability to spend so much 
 money on so unpretentious a structure. 1 
 
 Directly across the street from the School of Mines, set 
 back some distance from the sidewalk, is the large, handsome, 
 new 
 
 Edicifio de Comunicaciones y Obras Publicas (Communica- 
 tions and Public Works), a government building wherein is 
 housed the Gov’t Telegraph Office. The elaborately sculp- 
 tured facade with its griffins and lanterns, its splendidly 
 massive iron-work doors and its myriad minor details, il- 
 lustrates the excellent work which the local craftsmen can do. 
 The fine bronze railing which follows the winding stair, the 
 striking allegorical painting (depicting Peace Confounding 
 War), on the ceiling above the 3d landing (worth looking at), 
 the beautiful marble work, the fine friezes, the rich profusion 
 of the paintings in some of the rooms, and their noble propor- 
 tions, are all due to Mexican workmen. 
 
 The most attractive room in the building (which dates from 
 1911) is the harmoniously decorated Sala de Reception 
 (reception room), on the 3d floor (permit to see it easily ob- 
 tainable from the Director of Public Works, whose office is in 
 the building). Conspicuous among the mural decorations of 
 this sala, are those representing Art, Science, Liberty, History, 
 Labor, etc. The big central painting, overhead, entitled 
 Edilizia, is symbolic of the Roman JEdilis, or magistrate 
 whose special task, in ancient Rome, was the care of the 
 edifices and those communicating roads which were all ex- 
 pected to terminate in the Romish capital. The corner panels 
 of the picture represent Riqueza (Riches), Lex (Law), Fuerza 
 (Force), and Ciencia (Science). The room is furnished in 
 cream and gold — a beautiful effect. The finishing of the lower 
 part of the walls is of fine Puebla onyx. 
 
 The Church of Santa Clara (in the 4 a Calle de Tacuba, PI. 
 G, 4), a cruciform structure now much reduced, was founded in 
 1579 and completed and dedicated Oct. 22, 1621. Its partial 
 destruction by fire in 1755 necessitated reconstruction, and 
 the portion of the building which now remains, practically 
 dates from 1756. It was celebrated in times gone by for a fine 
 
 1 Manuel Tolsa was born Dec. 24, 1757, in Enguera, in the Kingdoir 
 of Valencia, Spain. He studied art at the Academy of San Carlos, in 
 Valencia. Accompanied by the painter, Rafael Ximeno , he sailed thence 
 for Mexico in 1791, to take charge of the class in sculpture at the Mexican 
 Academia de San Carlos. He was Sculptor to the King of Spain ; Minister 
 of the Supreme Commission of Commerce, Finance and Mines; Director 
 General of the Royal Academy of San Carlos, at Mexico City, and author 
 of the Equestrian Statue of Charles IV and of several other works. He 
 made the colossal figures of the Three Virtues for the clock-tower of the 
 Cathedral at Mex. City, and the principal figures of the Tabernacle of 
 the high altar in the Puebla Cathedral. He died Dec. 24, 1816. 
 
332 Route 1&. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Churches. 
 
 altar piece by Pedro Ramirez , but this has disappeared. The 
 tawdry exterior is less showy than the interior, which is newly 
 decorated, with stone floors, German roods and a number of 
 figures in high relief. The S stained-glass windows of the 
 cimhorio , and the 4 wheel windows of the nave are of Euro- 
 pean and Mexican origin. The painting of the Holy Trinity, 
 beneath the organ loft, is perhaps the work of one of Ibarra's 
 pupils. The rather well executed paintings in the spandrels 
 of the dome, and in the apse, are modern, by local painters. 
 The picture of the veil of Santa Veronica, which was long 
 worshipped in this church, is now in the ch. of the Colegio de 
 las Ninas , described at p.346. The convent which once stood 
 adjacent to the ch. and which was founded by the Monjas 
 Clarisas has been converted to commercial uses. 
 
 The Church of San Lorenzo (St. Lawrence), in the l a Calle 
 de San Lorenzo (PI. G, 3), is a landmark in the north-central 
 quarter of the city, and was erected in 1650 with a sum of 
 money given by Juan Fernando Riofro to the Augustinian trial's. 
 Though somewhat dilapidated, and with a tawdry interior, 
 the church is the chosen place of worship for many of the best 
 people of the capital. Services in English for English-speak- 
 ing Catholics are held on certain days. The single nave is 
 flanked by seven minor altars. The central figure of the high 
 altar is a Cristo , with a St. George and the Dragon on the 
 left and a St. Patrick on the right. The structure is a maze 
 of gold-leaf borne by two marbleized pillars (Corinthian) 
 with gilt bases and capitals. The central figure of the super- 
 structure is San Lorenzo holding a gridiron. San Lorenzo was a 
 native of Huesca, Spain. (He was broiled by Valentianus, Aug. 
 1 2, 261 , on a slow fire.) A similar figure stands above the main 
 entrance. To the 1. of the main altar is a figure, of heroic size, 
 of the Mater Dolorosa, facing an opposite altar of which the 
 central figure is a Christ Crucified. The picture in the chapel 
 to the r. of the main entrance is a copy of that of the Virgen 
 de Guadalupe (p. 401). The sacristy contains a few pictures of 
 no artistic value. The ten stained-glass windows of the clere- 
 story are modern. 
 
 The smaller of the two entrances leads into the sacristy, 
 above the door of which is a quaint old chapel-bell. The great 
 carved wood door, studded with copper nails and knobs, is a 
 good specimen of old Spanish workmanship. The two tall and 
 massive Corinthian columns which flank the main entrance, the 
 carved stone figures in the niches, and the tile-covered lantern 
 of the dome impart an imposing aspect to the edifice. 
 
 The Church of Nuestra Sehora de la Concepcion faces the 
 Plazuela of the same name (PI. G, 4), dates from about 1541, 
 and was erected by members of the Franciscan Order. Ren- 
 dered dingy by time and repeatedly cracked by earthquakes, 
 it is now but a tawdry reminder of its one-time magnificence. 
 
Churches. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route. 333 
 
 The interior decorations are profuse, with a preponderance of 
 gilt. The many polychrome figures of saints are of Spanish 
 origin. The richly carved entrance (one is shut out by a street 
 wall), the fine old gargoyles and the gigantic bulk of the ch., 
 with its ruinous tower, are attractive examples of early Colonial 
 architecture. The Catalonian belfry which surmounts the 
 E. wall is modern. The adjoining convent building was once 
 the most fashionable in Mexico, its one-time inmates having 
 been recruited from the noblest families of the capital. When 
 the estate was secularized by the Reform Laws it was found 
 to be worth a million and a half pesos. The neighborhood is not 
 distinguished for cleanliness. 
 
 The Church of Santa Maria de los Angeles (Holy 'Mary of 
 the Angels) faces the Plaza de los Angeles (PI. G, 2) and stands 
 on the site of the chapel erected in 1600 to house an alleged 
 miraculous image of the Immaculate Conception, called La 
 Virgen de los Angeles, hence the name. It dominates a tawdry 
 neighborhood and is noteworthy chiefly for its hodge-podge 
 of architectural details. The image is the object of a special 
 cult by certain classes, and pilgrimages are frequent. Ac- 
 cording to the ch. traditions the Virgin appeared at a period 
 (1580) when the capital was suffering from a great inundation 
 caused by the overflow from Lake Texcoco. The image, 
 which was found floating on the waves, came to life when 
 picked up, pacified the terror-stricken people, calmed the 
 waters, and has been worshipped to the present day. A prodi- 
 gality of ornament — a usual characteristic of such shrines — 
 marks the interior of the ch. The pictures in the spandrels of 
 the arches are painted (by local workmen) to represent mosaic 
 work. The chiselled Composite pillars and pilasters have been 
 creditably restored by artisans of the locality. The dome is 
 badly cracked. The odd-shaped towers overlook a pretty little 
 garden ( de los Angeles) with some parterres of flowers. On 
 the whole the ch. will scarcely repay a visit. 
 
 The Jardin Morelos (also called J. San Juan de Dios), on 
 the N. side of the Alameda (PI. F, 4) and between the churches 
 of Santa Vera Cruz and San Juan de Dios, is noteworthy only 
 for a defaced marble statue (the work of the Italian sculptor 
 Piatti) of the revolutionary patriot Jose Maria Morelos. The 
 statue was chiselled in 1865 by the order of the Emperor Maxi- 
 milian, and for a twelvemonth it stood in the Plazuela de 
 Guardiola, whence it was removed in 1867 to its present site. 
 In transit, the four bronze inscriptions which adorned the 
 sides of the shaft were lost. 
 
 The Church of San Juan de Dios, facing the W. end of 
 the Jardin Morelos (PI. F, 4), dates from 1766 and occupies the 
 site of a chapel erected in 1582 to Nuestra Senora de los De - 
 semparados (the forsaken ones). It has a striking recessed 
 portal and a richly carved Baroque fagade. The side wall is 
 
334 Route ]$. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Churches. 
 
 finished in a sort of Moresque pattern-work — a relic of the 
 earliest Colonial times. A figure of San Antonio de Padua 
 was formerly a conspicuous object in the group of santos which 
 still adorn the niches in the facade, but during the riots of 
 1857 it was toppled from its elevated position and cast into 
 a neighboring ditch. There it remained covered with mud and 
 slime for many years, until some workmen, who were digging 
 a trench near the Alameda, unearthed it and at once spread 
 the report that a miraculous santo had been found. It was 
 restored to the church with great ceremony and its cult soon 
 became widespread. Each inch of the clothing of the figure is 
 now covered with milagros, or votive offerings, of base metal 
 covered with gold and silver plate; the Indians always bring 
 these in lots of thirteen, since San Antonio de Padua is said 
 to have died June 13 (1531). 
 
 The Church of Santa Vera Cruz (PI. F, 4), on the N. side 
 of the Alameda and at the E. end of the small Jardin Morelos 
 (which it faces) , is one of the oldest (and least interesting) of 
 the city churches. Since its foundation (by Hernan Cortes , in 
 1527) it has suffered many renovations. The earthquake of 
 1907 so damaged the S. wall that a large portion of it had to be 
 replaced. In 1578 the ch. was elevated to an Iglesia Parroquial, 
 and on Oct. 14, 1730, it was dedicated with much pomp. Its 
 historical interest lies chiefly in the fact that here Cortes 
 founded (1527) the Archicofradia de la Cruz , an organization 
 composed of noblemen whose aim was to comfort, in their last 
 hours, and bury criminals condemned to execution. A 
 Papal Bull of Jan. 13, 1573, conceded to this privileged brother- 
 hood the name of Santisima Cristo de San Marcelo , and a 
 hundred days’ indulgence to the faithful who would visit 
 the sacrosanct image to which the archicofradia was dedicated. 
 This image, which is highly venerated, was (according to tra- 
 dition) brought to Mexico by the Conquistadores. It was always 
 covered with seven veils and was (and is) known as El Sehor 
 de las Siete Velas. 
 
 The side entrance (facing the Ave. de los Hombres Ilustres) 
 of the church (which is 150 ft. long by 30 ft. wide) is a good 
 example of carved stone. The old dome is picturesque. 
 
 The Church of San Diego (St. James), facing the W. end 
 of the Alameda, on the Calle de San Diego (PI. F, 4), occupies 
 the site of the old Indian tianguiz of San Hipolito. It was 
 erected in 1593 by the Frailes Descalzos de San Francisco 
 (barefoot friars of the Franciscan Order — often spoken of 
 as the Dieguinos, or those of the Order of St. James) and was 
 several times renovated after its dedication in 1621. The 
 present structure dates from about 1800. The long, narrow 
 atrium which flanks the Mexican Herald building is planted 
 with a few flowers. On the r. and 1. of the ch. entrance are 
 two curious old tile insets with crosses and Biblical inscrip- 
 
Churches. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42 . Route. 335 
 
 tions. A solitary tower stands to the 1. of the entrance, above 
 which, in low relief, is an equilateral triangle, and the Latin 
 inscription : Sacrosancta Lateranensis ecclesia sub Benedicto 
 
 XIV. 
 
 The interior is stuffy and over-decorated, with many altars. 
 On the first one to the r., as we enter, is a carved and highly 
 polished wood figure of a black monk. The paintings in the 
 main body of the ch. are uninteresting. The Camilla de Dolores , 
 at the r., contains fifteen large paintings by Francisco Antonio 
 Vallejo; notable among them the Exposition of the Body 
 of Christ and the Last Supper both high above the entrance; 
 the Oration in the Garden (high to the 1.), a I irgin of Gua- 
 dalupe — Refugium Peccatorum — to the 1. of the main altar, 
 and a Cristo — Refugium Agonizantium — to the r. The 8 huge 
 square paintings on the r. and 1. walls represent scenes from 
 Calvary. In gilded frames on the r. and 1. of the altar are 
 bundles containing relics of saints. An inscription above the 
 entrance refers to the dedication of the chapel on Sept. 8, 
 1788, and to its blessing by Bishop Sacedon in 1852. The 
 paintings are all good examples of Vallejo's work. 
 
 The Church of San Hipolito (St. Hippolytus), which stands 
 at the corner of the Calles de San Hipolito and El Puente de 
 Alvarado , was begun in 1525 (by the municipality), completed 
 in 1546, and was dedicated to San Hipolito because it was on 
 the day of the martyrdom of this saint that the Spaniards 
 besieging Tenochtitlan gained their final victory over the 
 Aztecs. Though one of the oldest and most historic the 
 city churches, it is now shorn of all its tangible glory. W hen 
 completed it was far from the centre of the Aztec city, on 
 the Tlacopan, or Tacuba causeway — one of the three great 
 causeways which connected Tenochtitlan with the mainland. 
 It marked the spot where 600 Spaniards were killed or maimed 
 on the memorable retreat of the Noche Triste. For many 
 years after its erection and on the anniversary of the triumph 
 of the Castilian arms, the coat-of-arms of the Spanish city 
 were conveyed at the head of a splendid procession ( paseo del 
 pendon) to the church, where a special mass was said tor 
 those who fell in the great battles for possession of the Aztec 
 
 metropolis. , . , , 
 
 Immediately after the capture of the Aztec stronghold, 
 Juan Garrido, one of the Conquistador es , undertook to recover 
 the bodies of his slaughtered countrymen and to erect a chapel 
 wherein they could be buried with religious rites. This chapel 
 stood near the entrance to the Calle de San Diego, and was 
 long known as the Capilla de J uan Garrido; also as the C apilia 
 de los Mar tires. When the church of San Hipolito was com- 
 pleted the bodies were buried therein and the church was called 
 S. H. de los Mdrtires (of the martyrs) — for thus the Spaniards 
 who fell in the struggle to convert the Aztecs from idol worship 
 
336 Route 42. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Churches. 
 
 to the Catholic faith were considered. The present building 
 dates from 1602, at which time the primitive edifice was prac- 
 tically reconstructed. It was badly damaged by an earthquake 
 in 1754 and was repaired four years later. When the church 
 was redecorated in 1892 many quaint epitaphs were painted 
 over. Built in the wall (out of sight) near the altar mayor is 
 (it is said) an iron chest containing relics of the Conquerors, 
 a small arm-bone of St. Hippolytus, bits of old money and other 
 curios of the time when the primitive church was built. 
 
 The interior decorations are in doubtful taste. The sacristy 
 contains nothing worth a fee. The first picture on the right as 
 we enter the church is a copy (by Tiburcio Sanchez ) of the 
 Virgin of Lourdes. The next in line (the work of T. Mos- 
 quedo ) depicts various episodes in the apparition of the Virgin 
 of Guadalupe to Juan Diego. In the right transept is a copy 
 (by Baron de Cadi) of one of Murillo’s Immaculate Virgins. 
 The picture in the left transept ( T . Sanchez) is a copy of the 
 original Sacred Heart of Jesus. The copy of Murillo’s Sagrada 
 Familia bears no name. The painting nearest the entrance 
 ( T . Sanchez) is that of the Virgen del Carmen: a gruesome 
 work representing the Virgin, with a child in her arms, raising 
 souls from a flaming purgatory. All the pictures are cramped 
 and awkward copies, poor in attitudes, expression and work- 
 manship. 
 
 The time-stained facade and the quaint corner-piece at the 
 outer edge of the atrium are the most interesting objects 
 about the ch. The latter ornaments the angle of the wall and 
 is illustrative of a celebrated Aztec legend referring to the 
 Conquest. 
 
 The central figure, in low relief, is of a terrified Indian clasped in the 
 embrace of a gigantic eagle. According to the tradition this Indian was 
 selected by the gods to advise the Emperor Montezuma Xocoyotzin that 
 unless he forthwith forsook his reprehensible mode of living, his empire 
 would fall into the hands of strangers. The eagle conducted the Indian to 
 the mansion of the gods to receive the divine message; he was then 
 brought safely back to earth. Montezuma failed to profit bs 7 the celestial 
 warning and the Spaniards took possession of his kingdom. 
 
 Below the figure is a cluster of ancient Mexican arms. 
 The inscription on the elliptical medallion above reads : 
 
 “So great was the slaughter of the Spaniards by the Aztecs in this 
 place on the night of July 1, 1520, named for this reason the Noche Triste, 
 or dismal night, that, after having, in the following year, re-entered the 
 city triumphantly, the conquerors resolved to build here a chapel to be 
 called the Capilta de los Martires ; and which should be dedicated to 
 San II i-polito because the capture of the city occurred upon that Saint’s 
 dav.” 
 
 Had not the Government intervened to save this curious relic of the 
 Conquest it would have been destroyed when the w^all enclosing the atrium 
 was demolished and reconstructed in 1906. The garden in the atrium 
 dates from 1907. 
 
 Before the Conquest, the Aztec PeltacaUi (prison of slaves reserved for 
 sacrifice) occupied the site of the church. It wras fortified by the Indians 
 
San Fernando. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42 . Route . 337 
 
 during the siege, and with the capture of that section of the city, Al- 
 varado used the structure as a sort of temporary headquarters. 
 
 The Church of San Fernando, in the Colonia Guerrero, 
 at the N. end of the plazuela of the same name, is now but a 
 simulacrum of what was formerly one of the richest and finest 
 of the city churches. The tattered remnants of what were 
 once superb mural paintings testify to the one-time magni- 
 ficence of its interior. The ch. was begun Oct. 11, 1735, and 
 was completed and dedicated April 20, 1755. Its builders 
 were the Friars of the Order of San Fernando, founded in Mex. 
 City in 1693 by Fray Antonio M argil de Jesus. It was once a 
 dependency of the Franciscan apostolic college, established 
 by royal order in 1733. The old pink and brown fagade is an 
 interesting example of the early Baroque. Above the main 
 entrance is an inscription which advises that “the ch. of San 
 Fernando is united to that of St. John Lateran at Rome and 
 participates in its indulgences.* * The doors are carved in con- 
 ventional designs. The ch. was once celebrated for its magni- 
 ficent Churrigueresque altars and retablos, all of which have 
 disappeared. The richly carved pulpit is an old example of 
 Queretaro marquetry. There are some indifferent paintings 
 in the spandrels of the cimborio, and a number of weather- 
 beaten paintings of immense size on the walls of the transepts, 
 and of the chapels which lead therefrom. The carved balcony 
 — a sort of Moorish celosia — above the entrance to the W. 
 transept is interesting. The lateral chapels are neglected and 
 the whole ch. carries an air of tawdry decorum. It was so 
 badly shattered by the earthquake of June 19, 1858, that its 
 entire renovation was necessary. 
 
 Facing the ch. is the Plazuela de Guerrero with a hand- 
 some bronze statue of this revolutionary hero. Commemora- 
 tive ceremonies are held here Feb. 14, each year, to honor the 
 memory of this man, General Don Vicente Guerrero , who was 
 shot at Cuilapan , Oaxaca , in 1831. 
 
 The Pante6n de San Fernando (PI. F, 3), known also as 
 that of Los Hombres Ilustres (illustrious men), adjoins the 
 Church of San Fernando and is open all day free (small fee 
 customary) to visitors. The entrance is E. of the ch. proper, 
 through the central door of the three iron grills which run the 
 length of the low stone wall. Of the 1200 or more bodies in- 
 terred here many are deposited in niches in the walls, after 
 the style of the Campo Santo at Genoa. It has been closed to 
 public burials since 1872. The most noteworthy mausoleum 
 in this pantheon is that of the ex-President Benito Pablo J uarez 
 (see p. 338), erected July 18, 1880. The sarcophagus, sur- 
 mounted by a recumbent figure of the Indian patriot, whose 
 head is lying in the lap of a weeping woman emblematic of 
 the nation, is the work of J . and M. Islas. The dead patriot, 
 celebrated for all time as the author of the famous Leyes de 
 
338 Route 42. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Benito Juarez. 
 
 Reforma, is sculptured as asleep in his robe. The effect of 
 the group is striking and the workmanship is suggestive of the 
 latent possibilities of this branch of art in Mexico — one that 
 has long been neglected and for which neither Mexicans nor 
 Spaniards were ever celebrated. A Doric portico borne by 16 
 massive columns encloses the sarcophagus. 
 
 Benito Pablo (Benedict Paul) Juarez, one of the most remarkable 
 men in the history of modern Mexico, was bom (March 21, 1806) in the 
 small and picturesque Indian pueblo of San Pablo Guelatao (State of 
 Oaxaca), about 40 M. north-west of Oaxaca City, upon the shore of a 
 mountain lake, which, from the transparency of its waters, — and from the 
 circumstance that swimmers are apt to be drawn under in a mysterious 
 way, — was known as Laguna encantada — enchanted lagoon. His parents 
 were pure-bred Zapoteca Indians; a race characterized by many sterling 
 qualities. (They are the mountaineers of Oaxaca and by their vigor, 
 boldness and warlike qualities have maintained a quasi-independence.) 
 The home of Juarez was a rude adobe hut, with thatched roof; similar 
 to many native homes of rural Mexico. Until he was 12 years of age he 
 knew no other tongue than the Zapotec dialect. He learned the Spanish, 
 rudimentary mathematics, and the tenets of the Catholic religion, from 
 a book-binder in Oaxaca, whose employ he entered in 1818. From 1821, 
 at which age he entered a clerical school, he was permitted to study 
 mediaeval Latin, canon law, dogmatic theology, philosophy and the re- 
 stricted curriculum of religious schools. He received the degree of Bache- 
 lor of Laws (1832) in the University of Oaxaca, and was admitted to the 
 bar when 28 years old. He held the office of Civil and Revenue Judge of 
 Oaxaca City for two years, acted as Secretary of the Governor of the 
 State, was imprisoned for liberal ideas, and later served as one of a 
 triumvirate into whose hands the executive power of the State was 
 placed. He became associated with Porfirio Diaz (a native of Oaxaca), 
 who became “ his pupil, the inheritor of his political ideas and the future 
 wearer of his mantle.” 
 
 In 1846 he was made a deputy to Congress from Oaxaca, and later was 
 elected Governor of the State, whose affairs he administered with prud- 
 ence and economy. During his incumbency of office, he prepared the 
 first code of criminal laws published in Mexico. At the instance of the 
 Dictator Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna, he was arrested (May, 1853), and 
 after spending some time in the prisons of Puebla, Jalapa and San Juan 
 de Ulua (T'era Cruz), he was exiled and went to New Orleans where he 
 became a fruit peddler. He returned to Mexico in 1855, associated him- 
 self with men of his political beliefs, and in time forced his way to the 
 presidency One of the greatest acts of his career was the drafting and 
 promulgation (July 12, 1859) of the celebrated Reform Laws ( Leyes de 
 Reforma) which provided for the suppression of religious orders and the 
 nationalization of ecclesiastical property. 
 
 July 17, 1872 (prior to which time he had never knowm a day’s sick- 
 ness), he was stricken with heart disease, and died the following night. 
 His bodv was taken to the National Palace, where it lay in state for 
 several days and was visited by thousands of mourning people. It was 
 borne through the streets on the 22d followed by an immense concourse, 
 and was laid to rest (July 22) in the Panteon de San Fernando. After 
 his death Congress declared Juarez a ll benemerito de la patria en grado 
 heroica ,” and his name was ordered to be inscribed in letters of gold m 
 the chamber of the National Congress. ‘‘In vain may we search history 
 for a more wonderful example of human greatness and success — a poor 
 ignorant Indian bov, emerging from the wild mountains of Oaxaca to 
 link his name to some of the most radical reforms the American continent 
 has ever witnessed.” Many Juarez relics are preserved in the National 
 Museum, described at p. 298. 
 
 Facing the Juarez tomb is the handsome marble monument 
 and bust of General Ignacio Zaragoza and the date Mayo 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 42 . Route. 339 
 
 5 de 1862. Four bronze eagles adorn the corners of the sar- 
 cophagus. The white marble monument to the memory of 
 Ignacio Comonfort , President of Mexico in 1855, bears on the E. 
 end the inscription “ sacrificed in the Mill of Soria, Nov. 13, 
 1863.” On the N. side is a sculptured bust in low relief sur- 
 mounted by a bronze eagle and emblems of war. On the S. 
 side is the inscription: “He lived for his country and died 
 because of it.” The inscription on the W. advises that he was 
 born in Puebla, March 12, 1812. Many flowers are crowded 
 within the narrow railing. 
 
 Hard by the Juarez tomb is that of the noted General 
 Vicente Guerrero, who lies here with his wife, Dona Dolores 
 Guerrero de Riva Palacio. 
 
 To the 1. of the entrance to the panteon, in a small court, is 
 an interesting red sandstone sarcophagus with M. M. in large 
 metal letters on the end. There is a significant absence of 
 name and date on this tomb, which covers the remains of 
 General Miguel Miramon , who was executed with the Em- 
 peror Maximilian (June 19, 1867) at The Hill of the Bells in 
 Queretaro. In the cemetery proper is the grave of General 
 T. Mejia , who was also shot with the Emperor and Miramon. 
 
 To the E. of the panteon, in course of construction, is what 
 will someday be a splendid new Panteon N acional, to which the 
 bodies of the most celebrated Mexicans now in San Fernando 
 will be moved. 
 
 For historical and biographical notes concerning the illus- 
 trious dead buried here consult: El Panteon de San Fernando 
 y el futuro Panteon N acional, by Jesus Galindo y Villa, 
 Mexico, 1908 (published under the auspices of the National 
 Museum). 
 
 The Cades del Puente de Alvarado, named for one of the 
 
 most celebrated and intrepid captains of Hernan Cortes, are 
 among the most historically interesting of the city thorough- 
 fares. The three streets (first, second and third) lead from, 
 and prolong, the Avenida de los Hombres llustres, where it ends 
 at the west corner of the Alameda, past the old church of San 
 Hipolito, the converging Calle de Buena Vista, and merge 
 their identity into the Avenida de San Cosme, of which they 
 are the eastern extension. At the time of the Conquest they 
 formed part of the Calzada de Tlacopan, or Tacuba, one of 
 the three great causeways connecting the old island city of 
 Tenochtitlan with the mainland. Along this causeway the har- 
 assed Spaniards retreated in dreadful rout on the celebrated 
 Noche Triste. For three centuries after the Conquest a bridge, 
 known as the Puente de Alvarado, spanned the wide acequia 
 (ditch), called by the Indians Tolteca acalopan, over which the 
 courageous captain made his famoussaZfo, or leap. This bridge 
 stood in the suburb of Mazatziutamalco, which spot, accord- 
 ing to the historians, was immediately in front of the San 
 
340 Route 42 . 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Palacio Bazaine. 
 
 Hipolito Church. A commemorative tablet which once marked 
 the spot has disappeared. The bridge was not removed until 
 1871, at which time the acequia was filled with debris. 
 
 A house of considerable historical interest stands on the 3 a Calle 
 del Puente de Alvarado ; a huge, gray stone structure (PI. E. 3) with a 
 curved and recessed front. It was erected early in 1800, by Manuel 
 Tolsa , and was long known as La Casa de la PiniUos , from the woman 
 who owned it. It is variously referred to as the Casa de Media Luna 
 (half moon), El Palacio de Buena Vista and Palacio Bazaine. It is now 
 used as a cigarette factory. General Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna, the 
 Dictator, once lived there, and he decorated the interior in gorgeous 
 style. During the Second Empire, Marshal Bazaine. the one-time 
 favorite of Napoleon III and of Maximilian, dwelt therein. In 1S65 
 (June 26) Bazaine wedded the beautiful Mexican Senorita de Pena The 
 Emperor Maximilian and the Empress Carlota were present at the cere- 
 mony, which was conducted with great pomp in the Palacio Nacional. 
 In the evening, the Marshal received a letter from the Emperor express- 
 ing gratitude for his military services, and presenting him the Palacio de 
 Buena Vista with its splendid furniture and large garden. A proviso 
 arranged for the house to revert to the Mexican Government should the 
 Marshal return to Europe, and the Gov’t obligated itself to pay him 
 therefor 3100,000. After Bazaine withdrew with his troops, the house 
 remained unoccupied for many years, when it passed again into private 
 ownership . 
 
 Prolonging the Calles del Puente de Alvarado westward are 
 the broad Cades de la Ribera de San Cosme (St. Cosmus), 
 traversing what was formerly one of the healthiest and 
 wealthiest suburbs of the vice-regal city. Before the Con- 
 quest, they also formed a part of the great Tlacopan Cause- 
 way , and along their entire length, to a terminal fountain in 
 the Calle de Mariscala , there went a primitive Aztec aqueduct 
 which brought potable water to Tenochtitldnvik Tlacopan , from 
 the Big Spring at Chapultepec. It was partly destroyed during 
 the retreat of the Dismal Night , and one of the first orders 
 issued by Cortes after the downfall of the city was that it should 
 be repaired. When the Spaniards finally completed it (in 1745) 
 more than two centuries had elapsed ; it was a huge structure of 
 900 arches, each IS ft. high and 24 ft. wide, and it carried a con- 
 tinuous stream of water 2 ft. in diameter through the open con- 
 duit. The old fountain at Mariscala faced the site of the new 
 post-office, and was demolished in 1852; along with it went 
 all the arches on the Puente de Alvarado. The San Cosme sec- 
 tion was removed in lS71,and the remainder, near Tlaxpana^ 
 in 1889. The old Garita (octroi station) of San Cosme, oppo- 
 site the Tivoli (PI. E, 3), is now used as a barrack. Immediatelj' 
 opposite this Cuartel is the 
 
 Tivoli del Eliseo, a sort of pleasure-park where picnics 
 and minor celebrations are held. The Americans usually 
 hold their Fourth of July meetings here. The park is shut in 
 by high walls. 
 
 The Parochial Church of San Cosme (PI. D, 3) occupies the 
 site of the Aztec T emple of Mazatzintamalco, which flanked 
 the Tlacopan causeway and which was stormed and cap- 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 J+2. Route. 341 
 
 ' tured by Alvarado and his men in 1521. As it was then some 
 distance from the Aztec city of Tenochtitldn , the Spaniards 
 fortified the temple and used it as a vantage-point whence 
 ; they could make assaults on the Indian strongholds. After 
 the Conquest the temple was demolished and a sort of hos- 
 pital was erected (1527) for wayfaring Indians. 
 
 The church (entrance from the Calle de Industria) was 
 begun in 1581, but was not completed until 1675. It was dedi- 
 cated to Santa Maria de la Consolacion, an alleged miracul- 
 ous picture of whom occupied a place in the main altar. 
 The allegorical painting near this altar is the work of Jose 
 : Alztbar (1762). The large canvas, Christ on the Cross , is 
 without merit. The interior is time-stained and tawdry. 
 
 ! The carved fagade and crumbling tower are hoary with age. 
 Lieutenant U. S. Grant mounted a howitzer in this tower 
 during the American invasion (1847) and bombarded the 
 
 I ' neighborhood. The old tile-covered dome of the church is a 
 landmark in the vicinity. 
 
 The Colonia de Santa Maria, in the north-west section of 
 the city (PL E, 2), is reached by the Santa Maria tram-cars 
 which leave the Plaza Mayor at frequent intervals. 
 
 The Plaza (called also Alameda de Santa Maria de la 
 Ribera ) is an attractive, flower-crowned spot with clean walks, 
 playing fountains and many tall eucalyptus trees. The painted 
 iron benches in the park are generally well filled with the tired 
 element. In the centre of the plaza is a small socle whence there 
 rises a stone pedestal surmounted by a life-size bronze figure 
 of Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla. On the base of the statue is the 
 inscription “ Hidalgo , 1810.” Overlooking the plaza from the 
 west side is the fine new 
 
 Institute Geologico Nacional, a splendid structure of gray 
 stone, with a right and left wing embellished with a number 
 of graceful Ionic columns, and completed in 1906. 
 
 Fine Greco-Roman enrichments are features of the archi- 
 trave and the handsome carved cornice. Carved inscriptions 
 above the windows indicate the departments devoted to 
 Geologia , Paleontologia, Litologia, Mineralogia, Geotecnia , and 
 Quimica. A broad flight of stone steps leads up to the peri- 
 style. Entrance is had through three communicating arches 
 which support a mirador on the second story. This portico 
 is adorned with six graceful Ionic columns and an equal 
 number of Ionic pilasters. Between the latter are three fine 
 stained glass windows representing: on the left, the twin 
 mountain peaks called Las Hermanas (the sisters), and the 
 Ruinas de Tepozteco; in the centre, La Cascada de Necaxa, and 
 on the right, La Erupcion del Volcan de Colima , 24 de Marzo, 
 1903. Four bronze medallions adorn the interior wall; one 
 of James Hutton (by F. Dietze), 1726-97; W. Smith (by A. 
 Mathe), 1767-1839; A. G. Verner (by Aug. Kraus), 1749-1817 ; 
 
342 Route 42. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Cemeteries . 
 
 George Cuvier (byH. Wefing), 1769-1832. Acellular system 
 library (the first installed in a Mex. Scientific Instit utef occu- 
 pies a portion of the upper floor. The four thousand vol- 
 umes, chiefly in German, treat principally of geology. They 
 are exchanged from time to time, for books of other scientific 
 societies abroad. The landscape views on' the colored glass 
 doors giving access to the library represent Los Organos de 
 Octopan , and the Cafwn del Puente de Chone. 
 
 The upper rooms are decorated in Greco-Roman style; one 
 of them contains a fresco representing geology and its at- 
 tributes. The paintings (by Jose Maria Velasco) on the walls 
 of the upper hall represent terrestrial and marine flora and 
 fauna of remote geological epochs, and the geological features 
 of the Santa Catarina (Mexico) region. Two fine stained-glass 
 windows on this floor show the Barranca (gorge) de Teocelo 
 (State of Vera Cruz) and the Pilar de Huyapam , in Tepe- 
 huanes (State of Durango). To reach the reception-room 
 (on the lower floor) we cross the vestibule and pass be- 
 neath the winding stair which leads to the upper floor. 
 The two handsome colored-glass windows which adorn the 
 east end of this room represent the primitive mining ma- 
 chinery employed in the 16th cent. In the rear are two huge 
 glass doors (leading to the elevator) which portray, in col- 
 ored glass, scenes in the famous Wieliczka mines. The rear 
 rooms contain many cases of paleontological specimens from 
 the different Mexican States. Petrography and Mineralogy 
 are also represented. The front rooms (each with a seating 
 capacity of 400) are used for reunions. 
 
 La Casa de los Mascarones (House of the Masks), one of the 
 most elaborate examples of domestic Churrigueresque archi- 
 tecture in the city, stands at the cor. of the 4 a Calle de la Ri- 
 bera de San Cosme and the l a C. del Naranjo (PL D, 3). The 
 house is a relic of Colonial days and belonged to the Marquis 
 Don Jose de Mendoza , who, at his death in 1771, had spent 
 8100,000 on it; even then the exterior was not finished. The 
 interior was never completed according to the original plan. 
 
 The English Cemetery, in the suburb of Tlaxpana (V. PI. 
 C. 3), was founded in 1825 and contains about 10,000 dead. 
 The few monuments are austere in character 
 
 The American Cemetery (V. PL A. 3) is near Tacuba, and k 
 uninteresting. The old burying- ground on the Veronica Road 
 (hard by the English Cemetery) is now closed. 
 
 The Spanish Cemetery, in the N.-W. section of the city, 
 near the suburb of Tacuba (Tacuba tranvias at frequent in- 
 tervals from the Zocalo), was inaugurated in 1880 and con- 
 tains a number of elaborate tombs, chiefly Gothic. Perhaps 
 the most massive is that erected to the memory of Senator 
 Jose Maria Romero . Noteworthy tombs are those of Saturnino 
 Saulo , Quintin Gutierrez , Ni colds de Teresa, Francisco Prida , 
 
MEXICO CITY A2. Route. 343 
 
 etc. Within the panteon is a section of unconsecrated ground 
 where suicides and others are interred. 
 
 South-East Quarters of the City. 
 
 CONSERVATORIO NACIONAL DE MtfsiCA. CHURCH OF PORTA CcELI. 
 Church of San Bernardo. Biblioteca Nacional. Calles de Capu- 
 chinas. Churches of Balvanera, and El Colegio de Ninas. Palacio 
 
 DEL CONDE DE SANTIAGO. CHURCH AND HOSPITAL DE JESUS NAZARENO. 
 
 Churches of San Jose de Gracia, San Miguel, and San Pablo ; Canal 
 de la Viga. Church of San Antonio Abad. Colegio de la Paz. 
 Church of Regina Cceli. El Hospicio de Pobres. 
 
 The National Conservatory of Music ( Conservatorio 
 Nacional de Miisica), facing a narrow and short calle (La Uni- 
 versidad) which leads S. from the S. side (midway) of the 
 Palacio Nacional, is a nondescript, unprepossessing building 
 once celebrated as the University ( universidad ) of Mexico. 
 Free to visitors between 10 a. m. and 5 p. m. It was founded 
 by a royal order of Sept. 25, 1553, and endowed with the 
 statutes and privileges of the University of Salamanca, in 
 Spain. The corner-stone of the present structure was laid 
 (on the site of Montezuma’s palace, and on ground later owned 
 by Don Martin Cortes , son of the Great Conqueror) June 29, 
 1584, and was consecrated by Archbishop Pedro Moya de 
 Contreras. The edifice was completed in 1590, partly recon- 
 structed between 1785 and 1787, and again in 1909. The 
 spacious court contains some parterres of flowers, and is sur- 
 rounded by a stately cloister supported by Ionic columns. 
 The finely carved doors on the r. lead to the theatre (Teatro 
 del Conservatorio) opened in 1874. It contains a number of 
 medallion busts of musical celebrities and of dramatic authors. 
 The best of the few pictures in the conservatory is a votive 
 
 I picture by Antonio Vallejo. 
 
 The old Church of Porta Cceli (Door of Heaven), which 
 j stands in the 6th Calle de Capuchinas (PI. H, 5) just around 
 the corner (S.-W.) from the Conservatorio, is now a tawdry 
 and dilapidated resort of the lower classes. At the left of the 
 entrance is a jet-black Cristo Crucified. The original ch. 
 
 I was a Dominican foundation, and dates from 1603. 
 
 The Church of San Bernardo, in the 4th Calle de Capuchi- 
 nas (PI. H, 4), was completed and dedicated in June, 1690, at 
 a cost of $60,000. Having been founded (on the site of a con- 
 vent built by the nuns of the Cistercian order) without the 
 imperial consent, it was the cause of a long and acrimonious 
 correspondence between the ecclesiastics in Mexico and the 
 Consejo Real de las Indias. The convent was finally closed, 
 and later the ch. property was sequestrated by the Reform edict. 
 When the Government took over the property, the institution, 
 though generally considered very poor, was found to possess 
 fifty-four parcels of realty valued at more than half a million 
 pesos , besides many investments. After its suppression the 
 ch. building was long used as a storehouse. It is now so hemmed 
 
344 Route 42. MEXICO CITY Biblioteca I 
 
 in by stores and dwellings as to remain almost unnoticed. ' 
 Its fagade makes a pretty picture when viewed from the N. ! 
 end of the Callejuela, — a narrow, arcade-like lane leading from 
 the Plaza de la Constitucion to the Calle de Capuchinas. 
 
 The brownish drab interior decorations are new. The 
 Baldachin o-like altar mayor, with the inscription 11 Ecce | 
 Tabernaculum Dei Cum Hominibus ,” is borne by six fluted i 
 Composite columns with gilt capitals. The four side altars 
 contain life-size figures of santos. A number of mortuary | 
 tablets are let into the w T alls. The allegorical paintings in 
 the angles of the columns are mediocre. The painting on the 
 wall below the organ-loft, of the Virgin and the Christ Child, 
 is modern. Despite the fresh-appearing interior, the church 
 bears the marks of time, and it will doubtless soon make way 1 
 for modern commercial establishments. 
 
 The National Library ( Biblioteca Nacional) faces the 3 a : 
 Calle de San Agustin (PI. G, 5), and is 5 min. w T alk south-w^est 
 of the Plaza Mayor. Open (free) to visitors every day except 
 Sundays and holidays, from 10 a. m. to 5 p. m. No fees. The 
 books (nearly 200,000) are in English, German, Spanish, 
 French, Italian and Latin. 
 
 According to the records, about 30,000 persons avail them- 
 selves of the use of the books during a year. Those most in 
 demand are (according to statistics counted by months) books 
 on general knowiedge, 284 ; on history, 225 ; on natural sciences, 
 152; on medicine, 105, and on jurisprudence, 16. 
 
 The library is exceptionally rich in books treating of the- 
 ology, of the Church in New* Spain, and of the early history 
 of Mexico. If the visitor is interested in documents referring 
 to municipal transactions during the time of the Spanish 
 Viceroys he is recommended to the archivo in the Palacio 
 Municipal, described at page 292. 
 
 Catalogues near the chief librarian’s desk just within the entrance to the 
 reading-room. The visitor writes his name on a slip of paper, along with 
 the title and number of the book (only one book can be taken at a time), j 
 and the librarian indicates the department where the volume is shelved, 
 and the man in charge. When finished with, the book is handed back to 
 the sub-librarian, and the original ticket is secured and returned to the 
 chief librarian at the exit. 
 
 The biblioteca is housed in the old San Agustin Church , j 
 erected by the Augustinians (1677-92) on the site of a primi- 
 tive church which w r as completed in 1541 and destroyed by 
 fire in 1676. Architecturally it is one of the most imposing 
 buildings in the city, and the handsome, tile-covered dome 
 in the Mudejar style is one of the attractions of the neighbor- 
 hood where it is located. The old atrium has been converted 
 into a shrub-embow T ered garden enclosed within a high iron 
 railing. The posts of this (20 in number) are surmounted by 
 busts of Mexican celebrities. Among them are the poets 
 Francisco Manuel Sanchez de Tagle; Fray Manuel Navarrete , 
 
National. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route. 345 
 
 Manuel Carpio, Jose Joaquin Pesado , and the Aztec Prince 
 Netzahualcoyotl, called the poet rey. The historians are Fran - 
 cisco Javier Clavijero, Fernando A. Tezozomoc and Fernando 
 A. lxtlilxochitl (Aztec chroniclers); Fernando Ramirez, Lucas 
 Alaman and Mariano Veytia; Fray Juan Crisdstomo Ndjera, 
 philologist; Manuel de la Pena y Pena, jurist; Carlos Sign enza 
 y Gongora, humanitarian; Leopoldo Rio de la Loza, Joaquin 
 Cardosa and Jose Maria Lafragua, chemists; Manuel Eduardo 
 Gorostiza, dramatist, and Jose A. Alzate, naturalist. 
 
 A fine basso-relievo of San Agustin stands above the main 
 portal, and in a niche in the western wall is a large statue 
 of Minerva. The fagade, a maze of columns, basso-relievos, 
 friezes and enrichments, is handsome and imposing; perhaps 
 the finest thing of its kind in the Republic. The marble-paved 
 vestibule adorned with two rows of massive Ionic columns, 
 which support the groined ceiling of the old coro , is somewhat 
 gloomy. The reading-room — once the central nave of the 
 church — is of huge proportions, with lines of airy pilasters 
 supporting a rich cornice whence spring the arches that sup- 
 port the vaulted roof. It is uncomfortably cool in winter. 
 The lateral chapels and aisles have been remodelled, and now 
 form alcoves for book-cases. An abundance of light pours in 
 through the high octagonal clerestory windows. The wood 
 floor is a huge sounding-board that accentuates the acoustic 
 properties of the structure. In front of the fine window in the 
 apse is a huge coat-of-arms of the Mexican Republic. On the 
 balustrade of the choir loft stands an imposing figure of Flying 
 Time, the work of Don Epitacio Calvo. It was the intention 
 to cast this figure in bronze, but the funds were not forth- 
 coming and the clay was bronzed over. The old picture on 
 the wall of the coro represents St. Mark’s at Venice, and is 
 of no particular merit. Opposite this figure is a huge eagle, 
 emblem of the Republic. Near the entrance are medallion por- 
 traits, one of Benito Juarez, who, on Nov. 30, 1867, issued 
 the decree establishing the library with the books taken from 
 the University, the Cathedral and various colegios and con- 
 vents; the other of Antonio Martinez de Castro, the Ministro 
 de Justicia by whom the decree received official authorization. 
 Note the fine architrave which runs the length of the interior, 
 also the attractive enrichments. 
 
 # On pedestals ranged along the walls are statues, of heroic 
 size, of Plato, Homer , Aristophanes, Valmiki, Cicero , Virgil , 
 Isaiah , St. Paul, Dante, Alarcon, Origen, Copernicus, Des- 
 cartes, Cuvier, Humboldt and Confucius. The latter, with 
 his flowing beard (somewhat unusual in China), bears a 
 stronger resemblance to a Russian than to a Chinese. The 
 rising sun on his breast is usually considered the emblem of 
 Japan. 
 
 The west wing of the library, now used as a night library, 
 
I 
 
 346 Route 4 2 . MEXICO CITY 
 
 was formerly the Chapel of the Tercer Orden of the San 
 Agustin ch. Before its renovation (in 1906) it was used as a ; 1 
 storehouse for unclassified books. The main library was housed a 
 here until the ch. could be made over to suit the exigencies of ft 
 such an institution. In the comer of the garden is a statue I 
 (a gift from the German Emperor, in 1910) of Baron Alexan-m 
 der von Humboldt. 
 
 Time was when the Church of San Agustin was one of the finest and | 
 wealthiest in this city of fine churches. It possessed vast landed wea .th,n 
 many beautiful pictures, and a richly carved walnut-wood choir with I 
 carved stalls representing 254 biblical episodes of the Old Testament — If 
 the estimated cost of which was §240,000. With the passage of theia 
 Reform Laws the ch. became government property, and the unique 1 
 choir was removed to the IN ational Preparatory School described at 1 
 p. 360. The great convent which once stretched behind the ch.. with® 
 its splendid patios and celebrated mural paintings, was one of the finest 1 1 
 in Mexico. The artesonado work of the porteria was almost as celebrated I 
 as the choir stalls. Certain of the old paintings now in the Academy of 1 
 Fine Arts were removed hence. 
 
 “ The church proper [says Mr. Baxter ] lay dismantled for several years ,1 
 succeeding its sequestration under the Reform Laws, and it was several |1 
 times used as a fortress. It was one of the most sumptuous churches in j I 
 the city, and the Plateresque design adopted for the Library was in its j I 
 quiet elegance skilfully brought into conformity with the rich adornments I 
 of the ch. exterior, which were preserved so far as possible. It was origi-M 
 nally proposed, in the reconstruction, to substitute the national arms for * 
 the fine old low-relief on the facade, — one of the finest examples of old | 
 sculpture in the country. It has a strictly Byzantine quality, particularly ; 1 
 in its representation of San Agustin, in gigantic proportions as compared I 
 with the adoring monks about him.” 
 
 The 2 a Calle de Capuchinas (formerly the Calle de Cadena), j 
 in which stands the city residence of the late president Porjirio ] 
 Diaz , was originally named for the distinguished Cadena I 
 family who lived here during the early years of the Colonial i 
 regime. 
 
 The Church of Balvanera (in the 5 a Calle de San Agustin, ' 
 PI. H. 5), dedicated to Nuestra Sehora de Balvanera, was 
 begun May 3, 1667, and completed and dedicated Dec. 7, , 
 1671, and is of passing interest only in that it possesses a tower | 
 decorated after the style of a crazy-quilt. The ch. contains 1 1 
 nothing of interest, and occupies the site of a ch. erected in 
 1573 by the Concepdonistas . 
 
 The Church of the Colegio de Ninas (girls’ college), | 
 sometimes called Colegio de la Caridad and Nuestro 1 
 Senor de Luxes, a quaint old structure in one of the busiest < 
 of the modern streets (4th Bolivar) of the capital (PI. G, 4), i 
 was founded in 1548 by the Franciscan Fray Pedro de GanieA j 
 It is now under the jurisdiction of the French fathers. Its 
 present air of tawdry decorum, coupled with its over-decora- 1 
 tion, is in strong contrast to its one-time splendor — curtailed 
 by the Reform Laws. The chief object of veneration in the 
 ch. is a picture, in a cheap gilt frame, above the sagraric \ 
 of the high altar — a print of the veil of Santa Veronica , sur- 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route. 347 
 
 rounded by many tiny votive offerings of silver. Hanging 
 above the door leading into the sacristy is a smaller reproduc- 
 tion, also with many oblations. On one of the pilasters in the 
 body of the ch. is a framed document in Latin setting forth 
 i the history of the cult. Interesting in that it exemplifies the 
 power of blind faith, is the fact that the oil in the lamps which 
 burn before these pictures is eagerly sought by ailing devotees, 
 who attribute miraculous healing powers to it. When the 
 lamps are extinguished the remaining oil is distributed gratis 
 among the suffering ones, and these votive offerings represent 
 the members of the human body cured by it. The pictures 
 (copies of the original in St. Peter s, at Rome) * 1 were once the 
 most venerated objects in the Church of Santa Clara (p. 331). 
 
 One or two of the chapels in this ch. are like grottoes. The 
 many polychrome figures of saints in high and low relief, 
 as well as the 14 colored pictures representing the stations 
 of the cross, are of German and Spanish origin. 
 
 | Few of the remaining Colonial houses are older, and few 
 jpossess a more attractive exterior, than the Palacio del 
 Conde de Santiago de Calimaya in the 3d Calle de Flame- 
 cos (PI. H, 5). The structure, of pink tezontle, dates from the 
 years immediately following the Conquest, and was erected 
 by Lie. Don Juan Gutierrez Altamarino , a cousin of Hernan 
 1 Cortes. When a hundred years later it passed into the hands 
 of Don Santiago de Calimaya, he caused to be laid out a 
 beautiful park in the neighborhood, and for three centuries 
 the street which leads past the S. corner of the house was 
 called Calle del P argue del Conde. The great open court, now 
 used as a place to store merchandise, and the grand stairway 
 leading to the second floor, are splendid specimens of the early 
 > style of architecture. The fine carvings of the entrance, and 
 the huge wood doors are noteworthy. Running round the 
 roof from N.toS., and thence E., are 17 huge gargoyles {gar- 
 tolas) carved in stone and representing half cannons — the 
 )est examples of this style of work in the Republic. The cor- 
 1 lerstone is a huge monolith representing an Aztec tiger, — no 
 
 1 According to certain church historians, Saint Veronica was the 
 
 I ivoman who gave her veil to the Saviour to wipe the sweat from his face 
 -vhen he was carrying his cross to Calvary, and on receiving it back 
 bund his likeness impressed on the cloth. This original veil is said to be 
 i itill preserved at Rome (Church of St. Peter), where it is shown to only 
 
 i few persons of special rank. It is commonly supposed that the Saint 
 | Veronica of the legend received this name in mistake, and that it arose 
 from a misunderstanding and corruption of the term vera icon , true 
 mage, originally applied to the likeness itself. Various ancient witnesses, 
 lowever, have identified Veronica with different persons mentioned in the 
 lospels. In the legend of the Clementines, Veronica is another form 
 or Berenice , the daughter of the Canaanitish woman who won froni 
 fesus the recovery of her child. According to the “ Acts of Pilatus, ” and in 
 be writings of Cassiodorus, Reginus, Cedrenus, etc., she was the woman 
 sealed by Christ of her issue, who afterward raised to Jesus a statue in 
 >ronze at Paneas. 
 
348 Route 42. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Jesus N azareno. 
 
 doubt taken from the great Aztec teocatti which once stooc I 
 in the Plaza Mayor. History says Hernan Cortes placed thi< g 
 stone in position with his own hands. 
 
 Few of the city churches are more interesting, from a his- 1 
 torical view-point, than that of Jesus Nazareno (Jesus o) i 
 Nazareth) in the 4 a Calle de San Felipe Neri (PI. H, 5), founder ! 
 by Hernan Cortes , in 1524, under the title of Nuestra Senorc 
 de la Purisima Concepcion. The adjoining Hospital de Jesui 
 was established 3 years later. According to the tattered anc; 
 faded parchment records in the ch., the existing Sacristk 
 once formed the Capilla of the hospital, — the main body o 
 the present ch . dating from later times. Albeit Cortes endowec 
 both institutions with ample funds, it was not till long afteij 
 his death that the ch. was begun (1575) and completed (1665 
 and dedicated. About 1663 there came into possession of the 
 organization a celebrated image of Jesus N azareno, and th< 
 institution soon became known by that name. This imagt 
 proved such a revenue-producer that another alleged mirac- 
 ulous image — Nuestra Sehora de la Bala (Our Lady of thu 
 Bullet) — was later acquired, and is now to be seen at the altai j 
 immediately facing the entrance. Tradition relates that a poo;| 
 man of Ixtapalapan charged his wife with infidelity and firec 
 a pistol at her, but failed to injure her, as she implored the I 
 protection of the image, which promptly moved into range anc I 
 intercepted the bullet! The inscription on the altar relates tha I 
 the image was long venerated in the Templo de San Ldzan I 
 and later in that of the College of San Pablo of the Agusiinos j 
 whence it was removed to its present place. Immediately til 
 the r. of the entrance, behind a glass on the altar, is a poly I 
 chrome figure of the Saviour crucified, on a cross of elaborat I 
 inlaid work with silver trimmings. This figure, one of the mos I 
 venerated objects in the ch., represents to many the personi 
 fication of the original image of Jesus N azareno, and is knowii 
 as El Cristo de los Desagravios. In a glass case at the feet o| 
 the rood are many votive offerings. At the r. and 1. are in f | 
 scriptions, in Spanish, to the effect that: 
 
 “At 9 p.m. of Nov., 1732, during a fearsome earthquake, the figure be 1 1 
 came transformed; that it bled so copiously from the wound in its sia jfl 
 a sheet was necessary to catch the flow, and when this sheet [still pre ji 
 served] was opened it was found to be covered with small red crosses. M 
 The occurrence is duly recorded in the church records, and sworn tob;|J 
 the clerics who lived at that period. 
 
 In the transepts are the remains of the historian Lucas AlaM 
 man, the celebrated writer Fr. Manuel de San Juan Cr/sosa 
 tomo Najera , and the Catalonian sculptor D. Manuel Yilart 
 one-time professor in the Academia de San Carlos. From 179 [j 
 to 1823 the bones of Hernan Cortes rested here under a find 
 marble sepulchre within the chancel. The bizarre Altar Mai 
 yor, with its huge gilt frame and its polychrome figure in higi 
 
I MEXICO CITY Ifi. Route. 349 
 
 elief, possesses a sort of attraction. The most interesting part 
 >f the ch. is the old 
 
 Sacristi'a, immediately to the r. of the Main Altar. It dates 
 >ack to the early days, and has the only example remaining 
 n the capital of the richly decorated old wooden ceiling, of 
 he form called artesonado or pieced work. It is of cedar (well 
 vorth looking at), with the exquisite rich brown tone of the 
 latural wood. The Maltese crosses of the wood, and the ro- 
 
 | ,ettes of metal, are gilt against a ground of light blue — now 
 larkened with age. In this room is a huge round table with 
 i top of a single piece. The excellent paintings of the Sagrada 
 Vamilia and the Purisima Concepcion are unsigned, but they 
 lire of undoubted antiquity. # 
 
 The huge figure of San Miguel, which surmounts the tall 
 Vampanario, once served as a weather-cock or giralda ; it is 
 now a landmark of the neighborhood. 
 
 The Hospital de Jesus Nazareno, a long low building, 
 id joins the ch. and faces N. The first meeting of Cortes and 
 Montezuma took place on the site of this hospital, from which 
 circumstance the edifice was erected here. The exterior is 
 londescript, but the pretty garden of the interior and the quaint 
 irchitectural features are attractive. Let into the E. wall is a 
 tablet on which is inscribed, in Spanish: Hospital of the Clean 
 Conception of the Most Holy Mary and Jesus of Nazareth, the 
 oldest of the ' Nation , Founded on this famous site of paganism 
 known as “ HuitziUan 9 * in the year 1527. Renovated and rees- 
 tablished in 1838. 
 
 Immediately to the E. of the Hospital de Jesus (in the 5 a 
 Calle Mesones) is the old Church of San Jos£ de Gracia 
 (P1.H,5), adjacent to a convent (now closed) established by 
 Fray Garcia Guerra, under the advocation of Santa Monica , 
 for the voluntary retirement of religious women. The corner- 
 stone of the present structure was laid Mch. 19, 1659, and the 
 ch. was inaugurated Nov. 24, 1661. Time was when a cele- 
 brated image of the Virgin, worshipped under the title of the 
 Divina Infantita (approved by Pope Gregory XVI), and to 
 which many miracles were attributed, drew numerous ad- 
 herents to this ch. — which is now Protestant. The structure 
 offers but little of interest to visitors. The fagade and towers 
 differ but little from those of many of the other city churches. 
 
 The Parochial Church of San Miguel (St. Michael), in 
 the 4 tt calle of the same name (PI. H, 5), dates from 1692, pos- 
 sesses one or two unsigned and undated pictures of no great 
 merit, and is devoid of general interest for the tourist. When 
 completed the ch. was dedicated to S. Miguel, and the main 
 chapel to Maria Santisima del Pilar de Zaragoza. Here certain 
 cf the city’s butchers hold annually (Oct. 18) a service to their 
 1 patron saint. The renovations in this chapel date from 1850. 
 The twin towers and the linterna surmounting the dome are 
 
350 Route 42. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 La Viga. 
 
 tile-tipped, and are landmarks of the neighborhood — which 
 contains several coffee- grinding mills and minor manufac- 
 tories. 
 
 Far to the S.-E. of the Plaza Mayor . in a tawdry neighbor- 
 hood not distinguished for cleanliness, stands (in the l a Calle . 
 de San Pablo, PL H. 5) the plain and poor Church of San j 
 Pablo, which dates from the beginning of the 18th cent., and 
 was built by the An gustinians. A cluster of churches once graced 
 this vicinity, which from about 1575 and onward for two cen- 
 turies or more was a fashionable district of the new Spanish city 
 that rose from the debris of the Aztec metropolis. Across the 
 upper facade of the ch. is a curious strip of colored tile-wort 
 inset with flowers. Near by, on the r., in what was once a 
 fine garden, are the ruins of an old ch., the one-time parroquia 
 of the neighborhood, but which was partly demolished and 
 used for a wareroom after the Reform Law edict. 
 
 The weather-beaten old Church of San Antonio Abad , 
 flanking the calzada of the same name, in the extreme S.-E. 
 portion of the city (PI. H, 6), was erected in 1628 by certain j 
 brothers called Canonigos Regulares del Or den de San Antonio 
 Abad de Viena — regular canons of the order of St. Anthony i 
 the Abbot of Vienna. The site was that of a hermitage which 
 dated from 1530, and was in consequence one of the first 
 Spanish buildings erected in the New World. 
 
 Near by is the equally historic ch. of SoMo. i Cruz Acatlan 
 (oftentimes called San Antonio AboA ), which dates from a 
 later period, and was erected by adherents of the Seraphic 
 Order. It is now a resort of the lower class. (The suburb toward 
 the S. was known in Aztec times as Xochi-Acatldn.) The in- 
 terest attaching to it is purely historic. 
 
 Canal de la Viga, Xochimilco, and the Floating- Gardens 
 ( Chinampas — Aztec, chinamitl, woven canes, or reeds; pa. 
 in or on). The Canal (sometimes called Canal National) 
 starts from the S.-E. outskirts of the city (PI. H, 6), and is 
 reached (frequent service) by tram-cars (from the Plaza Mayor) 
 marked La Viga (time about- 10 min.). The cars stop at the 
 so-called entrance to the Paseo, or Calzada de la Viga , or 
 Calzada de Ixtacalco ( casa blanca — white house), anciently 
 the most fashionable and frequented of the city boulevards, 
 but now a jejune and dusty simulacrum of its former glory. 
 Marking this city terminus of the paseo (boulevard) are two 
 huge bronze statues, in questionable taste, of alleged inhabit- 
 ants of the Valley of Mexico before the Conquest. They were 
 unveiled Sept. 16, 1891, at the E. end of the Paseo de la Re- 
 forma, but adverse criticism caused their removal hither. 
 They weigh 4 tons each, were cast in Mexico, cost $80,000 
 and are poor examples of the excellent work of which Mexican 
 artisans are capable. They stand in a frowsy neighborhood 
 where miracles are supposed to take the place of soap, and 
 
La Viga—Xochimilco . MEXICO CITY 
 
 350a 
 
 I which should be rigorously shunned after nightfall. The dis- 
 trict is unclean, the inhabitants are distinguished neither for 
 intelligence nor’probity, and major diseases often make of the 
 region their permanent habitat. 
 
 The city end of the canal is about 8 min. walk from the end 
 of the car line. Formerly it came right up to the Plaza Mayor , 
 connecting this with the lake region of Chaleo , Texcoco, and 
 Xochimilco (see the Valley Plan), and over its fluid surface 
 came flowers to the city flower-markets, and many of the 
 fruits and vegetables consumed in the capital. 
 
 r . The old calzada was pre-Iberian, and formed one of the three prin- 
 ilcipal causeways leading from the mainland to the water-locked city o: 
 Tenochtitlan. According to early chroniclers it was very wide, and eight 
 
 ! horsemen riding abreast could pass along it at one and the same time. 
 The old Aztec fortress of Xoloc (god of all double and distorted things) 
 flanked this highway and gave its name to the district. It is referred to 
 as one of the strongest of all the Aztec defences, surrounded by a massive 
 wall 10 ft. high; by a deep moat spanned by a draw-bridge ( puente 
 levadizo ) and surmounted by two high towers. Cortes travelled this 
 causeway on his first entrance to the Aztec stronghold, and later he in- 
 trenched himself in the Xoloc fortress and used it as one of the points from 
 which he besieged the city. 
 
 It was reconstructed in 1785 by the Conde M alias de Galvez , 
 the 48th viceroy, and again, between 1789 and ’94 by (the 52d 
 viceroy) the Conde de Revillagigedo . Following that period 
 the Calzada was to the viceregal city what the Paseo de la 
 Reforma is to the present capital. Then the Floating Gardens, 
 and the Flower-Shows held at Santa Anita, by the canal, were 
 at their best, and the beauty and wealth of the metropolis 
 assembled here to see and be seen. The Flower-Show, particu- 
 larly on Viernes de Dolores, is still held at Santa Anita, and 
 it attracts a few, but the sanctity of the day does not prevent 
 the flower-lovers and pickers from indulging in pocket-picking, 
 and strangers should be constantly on their guard. The little 
 town is tawdry and unfragrant, and it offers but little to the 
 average tourist. 
 
 A better way to reach it than by the La Viga tram-cars is 
 to take (from the Plaza Mayor) the tram marked Ixtapaldpan, 
 and descend at Santa Anita. — Between the city end of the 
 canal (which begins at a little park near the monument to, 
 and bust of, Cuauhtemoc, the successor to Montezuma) and 
 Santa Anita (near the 3d Bridge), is the uninteresting little 
 settlement of Rancho de la Cruz. At the park, where the 
 canal terminates, the banks usually are piled high with vege- 
 tables and produce from Xochimilco and the lake region. 
 
 After flowing beneath the little ex-Garita Bridge (so-called 
 from an octroi station which once stood at this point), the 
 canal (about 25 ft. wide) saunters past tall eucalyptus trees 
 and over wide reaches to Xochimilco and the Lakes, about 
 10 M. beyond. The trip on the canal is long, tiresome for the 
 traveller, and arduous for the boatman, because of the water 
 
350b Xochimilco. MEXICO CITY Floating-Gardens. 
 
 lilies (lino acudtico ) which choke the stream. Any floating- 
 gardens which may have existed here m former times have 
 joined the continent. , e , 
 
 In contrast to the dinginess of La Viga (so-called lrom the 
 heavy baulks or girders — vigas — which formed the bridges 
 over the stream) and Santa Anita , Xochimilco is one ot the 
 most delightful spots in the Valley of Mexico, and no stranger 
 to the city should fail to see this well-preserved rehc of early 
 
 Xochimilco (pron. so-chee-meal-co; from xochitl , flower, 
 miUi , and co. flower-bed, or place where flowers are), an ancient 
 Indian stronghold 15 M. S. of Mexico City (frequent and 
 excellent tram-car service — in about 1 hr.) came into history 
 about 1270, when the Chichimecas (according to Bernal Diaz 
 del Castillo , historian of the Conquest) were one of the govern- 
 ing tribes of the Vale of Anahuac (Valley of Mexico). During 
 the reign of the emperor TloUzin Pochotl , the XochimUcai 
 came down from the North, conquered the Chichimecas, and 
 established themselves in a sort of imperio which was part land 
 and part water. The Spaniards found them occupying a 
 bizarre island empire surrounded by waterways, spanned by 
 drawbridges, and so fortified that the invaders had consider- 
 able difficulty in dislodging them. According to the historian, 
 Cortes almost lost his life here, in one of his vigorous assaults 
 against the stronglv intrenched Indians. His horse became 
 mired in one of the^deep sluiceways, and but for the heroism 
 of one of his Tlaxcalan allies, the Great Captain would have 
 
 perished miserably. . . . ... 
 
 At that period a network of canals Venetian m their multi- 
 plicity covered the neighborhood, and hundreds of Indian 
 piraguas and primitive dugouts flashed to and fro over the 
 surface of the canals and the adjoining lagos . Many of the 
 canals have been filled in, but a network of them remains. 
 There are three main canals (the widest of them el Lanai cie 
 San Cristobal , and Nativitas — a continuation of La Viga) 
 and numerous lateral canalitas. The tiny, trout-like nsn 
 which abound in the water are called juiles (Nahuatl, xohuilm) , 
 the still smaller ones are mextlapiqv.es. These are also found m 
 manv of the acequias , or irri gating-ditches on the tableland. 
 The tinv frogs (ranas) for which the region is noted are known 
 bv the Aztec name atepocate: in time they change into axolotls 
 (mentioned at pp. 214 and 500). The canals wmd between 
 what originally were the chinampas. . 
 
 The Chinampas, or Floating- Gardens (ascribed to Acama - 
 pictli. one of the earlv Chichimecan potentates) originally 
 were made of interlacing twigs made thick enough to form a 
 strong mat, then covered with a thin layer of earth, being 
 light thev were easilv moved across the lake by means ot oars. 
 They usually took the form of parallelograms and were some- 
 
Floating-Gardens . MEXICO CITY Xochimileo . 350c 
 
 ii times over a hundred feet long. Fragile native huts ( chozas , or 
 chinancales) were erected on them, and plants of various 
 
 S kinds made to grow. Eventually, when these gardens took 
 root, as it were, tall eucalyptus, olive, and other trees grew 
 from them, so that now the entire region is one of trees, shrubs, 
 [I creepers and flowers. The chief products of the district are 
 
 ( flowers, vegetables, and petates, or reed-mats made from the 
 tules (reeds) which grow in abundance in the adjacent lake. 
 The flowers are varied and beautiful. Each of the little plots 
 of land is a sort of floral paradise, and a boat-ride on the canals 
 , which flank them is a delight. Early morning, and moonlit 
 | evenings are the best times. 
 
 On Sundays and feast-days the canals are crowded with 
 pleasure-seekers, and then the region is singularly attractive. 
 Large flat-bottomed boats, called canoas , 10-20 ft. long by 
 5-8 ft. broad, and smaller craft ( chalupas ) something like 
 Venetian gondolas, with seats and awnings, and propelled by 
 Indian boys with long poles, ply for hire, and are popular 
 with excursionists. Touters usually spot strangers as they 
 board the tram-cars at the Zocalo, and approach them there, 
 on the cars, or when they disembark at the Xochimileo plaza 
 (the car terminus). As boats vary in size, cleanliness and 
 equipment, it is better to wait (unless there is a brisk demand) 
 until one reaches the boat landing ( Embarcadero del Salitre) } 
 which is not far (5 min. walk) from the church, at the right. 
 The boatman will show the way. The usual trip is from the 
 landing to the Ojos de Agua (at Nativitas), a romantic spot 
 where one of the Pumping Stations of the Mexico Light & 
 Power Co. stands amid flowers, olive trees, pines trained after 
 the manner of the Japanese arborists, and many beautiful 
 shrubs. There is a stone landing, a pool of wonderfully clear 
 water (the city water comes from this and other stations in 
 the vicinity) and several al fresco restaurants where one may 
 dine primitively (and cheaply) amid attractive surroundings. 
 
 The usual cost for a boat (higher on Sundays and dias de 
 fiesta) is about three pesos for two or more persons, in a small 
 boat, and 5 pesos for a larger party in a larger boat. Boats 
 return to the starting point. There is practically no time 
 limit; but 2-3 hrs. is the accepted standard. — The trip is 
 delightfully picturesque; en route Indian women in light canoes 
 dart up alongside and offer refreshments and flowers for sale; 
 boats filled with happy natives, musicians, and others drift 
 past. Some of the larger craft have dining tables in the centre, 
 and here joyous groups eat, drink, and make merry to the sound 
 of thrumming guitars, Spanish canciones and Indian melodies. 
 Lovers luxuriate in the amiable blindness which all Mexicans 
 affect on such occasions, and the cares and perplexities of a 
 workaday world seem a million miles removed from this 
 Elysian spot. In early spring the entire region is a riot of glori- 
 
350c? 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 El Desierto. 
 
 ous flowers (lilies, roses, poppies, and whatnot), and the air 
 fairly vibrates with bird trillings. The people one meets are 
 friendly and attractive; pure Indian types predominate, and 
 while bargaining with the boatman is always necessary, there 
 is an absence of greed and a desire to fleece the traveller who 
 visits the spot. 
 
 If time permits, the traveller should inspect the quaint old 
 Parochial Church (la parroquia), which faces the unkempt 
 Jar din Juarez (the car terminal). It dates from the closing 
 years of the 16th cent., and is perhaps one of the oldest 
 churches of its class in the Republic. It is dedicated to San 
 Bernardino , the tutelar of the town, whose life history was 
 translated into the Indian dialect by padre Fray Bernardino 
 de Sahagiln (1499-1590), — who also published works in the 
 Aztec language. One of the old bells bears the date 1566, and 
 its thin, querulous voice is tinged with the melancholy of many 
 centuries. The archaic interior with its enormous single vault 
 contains a huge, semi-circular reredo in the baroque style, and 
 numerous altars with time-stained pictures of santos and 
 santas. The lateral altars are on a higher level than the wood 
 floor of the aisleless nave — a feature rarely met with in 
 Mexican churches. Ecclesiologically it is perhaps contempora- 
 neous with the quaint old church at Acolman, described at 
 p. 4265. 
 
 Far to the right of the Xochimilco district is El Desierto y 
 described below. 
 
 El Desierto, or La Venta , called also Desierto de los Leones 
 (desert of the lions), a one-time ecclesiastical retreat (see the 
 Valley Plan, A, 5) erected by the Carmelite Monks as a 
 monastery in 1606, is about 10 M. S.-W. of the capital, in a 
 charming spot much liked by autoists and is reached either 
 by auto (time about 2 hrs.) or by tram-cars marked La Venta , 
 which leave from the Plaza Cartagena , in Tacubava, at certain 
 intervals during the day (consult the Guia Oficicd del Sistema 
 de Tranvias de Mexico ). 
 
 The tourist who wishes to get the most out of his time can 
 combine a trip to El Desierto with one to Tacubaya, Mixcoac , 
 and San Angel. On holidays and Sundays El Desierto is apt to 
 be crowded with excursionists. At that time refreshment 
 tables are set out under the giant trees, quiet games of chance 
 are sometimes indulged in, and the place takes on a festive 
 air out of harmony with the ecclesiastical memories which 
 brood above it. 
 
 The tram-car terminus is at La. Venta , or Cuajimalpa , at 
 the edge of the forest reserve which enshrines the old mon- 
 astery. Hence it is a short and delightful walk through shaded 
 roads which strongly recall certain of those about Nikko, 
 Japan. While the ancient structures are now falling into decay, 
 the surroundings are beautiful, and yvell worth a visit. Alert 
 
El Desierto. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 351 
 
 boys act as guides to the cloisters and gardens, and for a small 
 fee (50 c. is ample) conduct one through an underground 
 (clean) labyrinth and point out the disciplinary cells where 
 recalcitrant monks were left in Stygian darkness to reflect 
 upon their conduct. 
 
 The barefoot Carmelite friars who first repaired to El 
 Desierto no doubt did so in imitation of a host of other brothers 
 of the tonsure in Spain, who became hermits and alleged re- 
 cluses in similar resorts, which though referred to as deserts 
 and jejune places, often were flower-crowned retreats where 
 milk and honey and frankincense and myrrh took the place of 
 the Barmecide repasts supposed to be their daily refection. 
 Judging from the present, El Desierto of the past must have 
 been a Hesperidian garden of roses and jasmine and sweet 
 cicely and incense, for great trees shut it in on all sides, sempi- 
 ternal sunshine pours in golden waves upon it, a host of sweet 
 song-birds make the woods vocal with melody, and an air of 
 peace and tranquillity singularly alluring replaces the artificial 
 miseries of the metropolitan life. 
 
 Certain of the walks in the immediate neighborhood are 
 charming if one can compass them in solitude, and when too 
 many merry-makers are not in evidence. From near-by van- 
 tage points one can command far-reaching views over the 
 valley and to the mountains which guard it. For like the 
 Buddhists of the Far East, the early friars in Mexico loved to 
 erect their retreats in high places, and on sun-washed slopes 
 whence the material as well as the spiritual eye could drink in 
 the charm of Nature’s handwork. 
 
 The shrewd old English monk, Thomas Gage (1596-1656), 
 missionary and author, who joined the Dominicans in Spain 
 and was a missionary in Mexico and Guatemala from 1625 to 
 1637, has a caustic word to say about these monastic retreats 
 in general, and El Desierto in particular. He writes of the 
 merry life of some of these alleged hermits, of their love of 
 leisure and repose, their feats of the trencher, their fugitive 
 interest in the swish of a silken kirtle, and their devotion to 
 the ‘purple goddess beloved of Bacchus’: he takes but little 
 stock in the humble, downcast eye, the clicking rosary, the 
 contemplative look, and the barefoot humility which attended 
 these rotund, twinkling-eyed, vinaceous padres. 
 
 An old inscription still visible on one of the monastery walls 
 apprises the curious that his Excellency, Don Juan de Men- 
 doza , Illustrious Marquis of Montes Claros , Viceroy of this 
 New Spain, laid the corner stone of the Desierto monastery on 
 Jan. 21, 1606, and dedicated the building to Nuestra Senora 
 del Monte Carmelo . That corner stone is still in place, and the 
 walls, the garden and the cloister still exist to recall those 
 happy, somnolent days of no income taxes, no labor unions, 
 no Ford cars, — and no guidebook writers! 
 
352 Route 42. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 The Colegio de la Paz (so called in honor of President 
 Ignacio Comonfort's daughter), popularly known as Colegio 
 de las Vizcainas (PI. G, 5), by reason of its foundation by 
 three rich Bizcayan merchants of Mexico City in 1732, is like- 
 wise known as the Colegio de San Ignacio (de Loyola), to 
 whom it was originally dedicated, and by whose name it was 
 originally called. The handsome chapel is still known by this 
 title. The old structure, in the severe Baroque style, — almost 
 a counterpart of the great Colegio de San Ildefonso, — is one 
 of the sturdiest and most impressive relics of Spanish Colonial 
 times to be found in the Mexican capital. The great building, 
 with a frontage (on the Calle de las Vizcainas ) of nearly 500 feet, 
 covers an area of nearly 25,000 yards, and commands atten- 
 tion by its giant bulk, and by the irregularity of its walls; 
 portions of which have sunk far below the pavement. By 
 facing the edifice and running the eye down the W. side, then 
 along the front from r. to 1., one gets a fair idea of how the 
 foundation of this tremendously heavy building has sunk into 
 the yielding soil. Some of the huge walls are many feet thick. 
 The small cubes of red-stained tezontle, of which they are 
 built, formed the favorite construction material in the capital 
 in the 17th and 18th centuries. This one-time beautiful 
 building (which cost over one million pesos to construct) 
 now stands in an unsavory neighborhood whose emphatic 
 quality is dirt. A number of tawdry little shops and factories 
 (the annual rental from which yields an income of about six 
 thousand pesos) pierce the sides and rear of the Colegio and 
 give the exterior the appearance of a prison or a factory. 
 Hard by the immense central court of the interior are six 
 smaller patios, with many corridors and arches. Albeit the 
 huge building possesses many quaint windows, gargoyles 
 and whatnot, the malodorous surroundings detract from a 
 visit. The schools are deserving institutions. In the rear 
 of the huge structure is the Plaza de las Vizcainas. 
 
 One square E. of the Colegio de la Paz, in the old Parroquia 
 de la Regina, and flanking the odoriferous plazwela of the 
 same name (Pl.G; 5), is the dilapidated, but once magnificent 
 Church of la Regina Cceli (Queen of Heaven), erected in 1573 by 
 the Concepcionistas , to whom is also due the newer Hospital de 
 Concepcion Beistegui , next door on the E. The attractive old 
 tile inset in the tower wall, though now in a ruinous state, 
 is sufficiently intact to acquaint the traveller with the date of 
 its foundation, of the fact that its erection was sanctioned by 
 a Pontifical decree of Pope Gregorio XIII, through a Nuncio 
 Apostolico of June 9, 1578, and of the august celebration which 
 in 1773 commemorated the second centenary of its existence; 
 giving also the names of some of the prelates who took a prom- 
 inent part. The allegorical bas-relief work above the E. en- 
 trance is fast crumbling to decay. The one-time attractive, 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route. 353 
 
 but now tawdry, interior is interesting chiefly for a dozen or 
 more splendid old gilded Churrigueresque altars and reredos , 
 each with a maze of figures and figurines, and with many 
 small paintings, some copied after the style of the Murillo 
 School. The best of these reredos is at the main altar, at the 
 W. end of the single nave. In the chapel which faces the en- 
 trance are three reredos , and over the entrance is an inscrip- 
 tion with the date 1733, relating to the dedication of the 
 chapel. The tile insets in the red-stained dome are attractive. 
 
 El Hospicio de Pobres (Asylum for the Poor), a large and 
 imposing structure on the Tlalpan car-line, S. of the Palacio 
 National (1 M.), was completed in 1905 at a cost of $1,400,000. 
 It was founded in 1765, by the Precentor Dr. Fernando Ortiz 
 Cortes ; is operated on non-sectarian lines, and supported by 
 Government. The (1000) pupils are taught useful arts and 
 trades. Some fine specimens of needle-work are made by the 
 girls. The institution is known also as the Hospicio de Ninos. 
 
 North-East Quarters of the City. 
 
 Church and Plaza de Santo Domingo. Escuela Nacional de Me- 
 dicina. The Inquisition. Churches of La Encarnacion, Santa Cata- 
 lina de Sena, Santa Catarina Martir, San Antonio Tepito, El Car- 
 men, Santiago Tlaltelolco, Santa Ines, Santa Teresa la Antigua. 
 Escuela Nacional Preparatoria ( San Ildefonso) ; Escuela de Juris- 
 prudence. Church of Nuestra Senora de Loreto. Ch. of Santa 
 Teresa la Nueva. Casa de Moneda. Churches of Jesus Maria, La 
 Santisima Trinidad, La Soledad de Santa Cruz. The San Lazaro 
 District. La Penitenciaria. 
 
 Following the 1°, 2 a and 3 a Calles de Santo Domingo which 
 extend northward (9 squares to the Ave. Peralvillo) from the 
 N.-W. corner of the Plaza Mayor , we come to a long, narrow 
 plazuela at the farthest end of which stands (PI. H, 3) the 
 Church of Santo Domingo, all that now remains of the one- 
 time great monastery and central Church of the Dominican 
 Order in New Spain. This order, founded in Tolosa, Spain, by 
 Santo Domingo de Guzman, and approved by Pope Honorius 
 III , in 1223, was extended to Mexico by the missionary monks 
 of the order, who reached Mexico from Hispaniola June 23, 
 1526. The first building erected for them was on the site of 
 the present College of Medicine, immediately across the street 
 from the present ch. In 1530 a monastery was built on land 
 adjoining the ch. on the W., and both were destroyed by the 
 great inundation of 1716. When the present ch. was com- 
 pleted (at a cost of $200,000) and dedicated, Aug. 3, 1736, 
 it was considered the finest structure in the city. It is still 
 regarded as one of the best examples of Baroque architecture 
 in Mexico. Enclosed within the high wall, 1 which once sur- 
 
 1 The fine old Claustro was built after the Italian style and was one of 
 the handsomest of its kind in New Spain. The walls were adorned with a 
 splendid collection of paintings, by Miguel Cabrera , representing scenes 
 in the life of Santo Domingo. Several Autos-de-Fe were celebrated in the 
 Santo Domingo cloister by the Inquisition. 
 
354 Route 1$. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 rounded it, was a fine chapel (dedicated Feb. 19, 1757), known 
 as the Tercer Orden de Santo Dom ingo , and a Capitta del Rosario , 
 both long since demolished. The former was the work of 
 Lorenzo Rodriguez , and was a fine example of the Churriguer - 
 esque. The pretty garden which faces the ch. once formed a 
 portion of the immense atrium. 
 
 The still stately fagade, quaint tower and fine dome show 
 to good advantage against the green of the palms and flowers. 
 The edifice is constructed of a porous amygdaloid, stained 
 a light wine red, — a favorite color with early Spanish archi- 
 tects. The half- obliterated figures and minor sculptures of 
 the fagade, as far as they have survived the riots which fol- 
 lowed the Reform Laws, are good examples of Spanish crafts- 
 manship. Ex-votos, jubilee-circulars, notices of difunciones 
 and whatnot, adorn the massive carved wmod doors and the 
 time-stained buttresses. The general appearance of the edi- 
 fice is one of great age. A small tendajon (shop) has burrowed 
 its wav, like a cancerous growth, into the W. corner beneath 
 the tower, and a commonplace, narrow secular structure r un s 
 the length of the W. side. The fine bells which once hung in 
 the now tottering campanario were removed after the passage 
 of the Reform Laws. The tile-covered cimborio — visible from 
 a great distance — is the most conspicuous feature of the church . 
 Its windows let a flood oflightonthe main altar and the tran- 
 septs. The cruciform and finely proportioned interior is lighted 
 by many stained glass windows of modern make. The lofty 
 Roman vault which springs from the single huge nave is 
 borne by 16 fluted Corinthian pilasters, decorated in white 
 and gold. 
 
 We enter beneath the huge organ loft; the first chapel on 
 the left is that of the Corazon de Jesus, nearly always closed. 
 The 2d, of Santa Ana; 3d, De la i SanUsima Trinidad, and the 
 4th, one of the most ornate in the church, the Capilla del 
 Rosario. This chapel, erected to replace the one severed from 
 the church by the opening of a street through the monastery 
 grounds, is the most revered. The walls are covered with gilt 
 fleur-de-lvs, and the ceiling with a painting of the Virgin sur- 
 rounded by cherubim. Adjacent is the Capilla de los Dolores , 
 and beyond this is the Chapel of El Santo Cristo del Noviciado . 
 We now come to the fine Altar de Covadonga ; a richly carved 
 mass of wood in the Churriguer esque style, with many paint- 
 ings, figurines and sculptures in the recesses, which fills the 
 end of the transept and dates from the erection of the church. 
 The retention of these fine specimens of Churriguera's singular 
 art gives an idea of what the old-time splendor of the ch. must 
 have been. The pictures have only their antiquity to recom- 
 mend them ; the saints are carved in the bold but crude manner 
 characteristic of the early Spanish craftsmen. We follow the 
 altar railing ( comulgatorio ), pass through a small door and on 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 42 . Route. 355 
 
 beneath two low arches to a huge carved wood door leading 
 into the sacristy — immediately behind the altar mayor. 
 Here the sacristan exhibits a number of huge paintings of no 
 artistic value, and a fairly good picture of the Crucifixion and 
 of San Ildefonso — painters unknown. The two heavily carved 
 Spanish chairs, upholstered in faded silk, are used on special 
 occasions, and only by high church functionaries. 
 
 We reenter the ambulatory and pass in front of the main 
 altar, which is in a semicircular sanctuary enclosed by a 
 chancel railing, and reached by a short flight of steps. On 
 either side are life-size figures of angels, resting on masses of 
 clouds and flanked by overdressed figures beneath canopies. 
 The superstructure is borne by four massive cream-colored 
 Corinthian columns with gilt capitals and bases. A Cristo rest- 
 ing on a silver cloud, backed by a golden sunburst, and 
 adorned with cherubim heads, is the central figure. Six tall 
 Corinthian columns and several figures of the Apostles add an 
 inharmonious mass of color to an ensemble which bears the 
 stamp of mediocrity. 
 
 The left transept is filled by the huge gilded Altar del 
 Sagrario , a companion piece to the one opposite. It is Chur - 
 rigueresque ; with a wealth of rich carving, figurines, paintings 
 and relics. Many gilt lamps swing before these altars, which 
 a^re rarely free from the smoke of burning candles. Adjacent 
 is the Camilla de Santa Juana de Aza. Following this is the 
 C. de la Luz. Crossing the exit leading to the Ccdle del Sepul- 
 cro de Santo Domingo , we come to the Capilla de Santo Tomas 
 de Aquino , wherein one may sometimes see a large glass case 
 containing a seated figure of Christ, — an anguished, sangui- 
 nary and thoroughly saddening spectacle. The next chapel, 
 dedicated to La Virgen de Guadalupe , contains five interesting 
 pictures of the Virgin, as she appeared to Juan Diego (p. 394). 
 The next, and last, is the C hurrigueresque chapel of San J ose, 
 with very elaborate carvings. 
 
 Above the confessionals are life-size figures, on huge brack- 
 ets, of Santa Catalina de Sena; S. Raimundo; S. Catalina Rizi; 
 S. Gonzalo; S. Jacinto; S. Antonio and others. The stained 
 glass windows of the clerestory are all modern. The color 
 tone of the interior is magenta, which imparts an odd aspect. 
 
 The most curious object in the church is the Santo Entierro 
 (holy interment) , a life-size, recumbent Cristo with the head, 
 arms and feet showing : the latter of brown ivory with white 
 nails. This figure (of undoubted antiquity) is wheeled about 
 the church, and at times is placed in certain of the capillas. 
 It is much venerated, and the feet are kissed smooth in places. 
 Before the Reform Laws prohibited religious street processions, 
 it was the custom to convey this figure, at the head of a multi- 
 tude, on Good Friday, to the church of La Concepcion. It has a 
 counterpart in the shrine of the Sacro Monte at Amecameca. 
 
356 Route 42 . 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Inquisition, 
 
 The CapiUa del Senor de la Expiation, on the W. side of the 
 Plazuela de Santo Domingo, is a dependency of the church, 
 and formerly stood within the monastery walls. It is the 
 chosen shrine of certain Indians, and the visitor is apt to 
 unwittingly carry away minute entomological specimens which 
 rightfully belong to them. The chapel contains nothing of 
 interest; the altar is a mass of incongruous coloring, and is 
 often so smothered in flowers that their fragrance is almost 
 overpowering. The credulous believe the Dominicans buried 
 much treasure beneath the church before the passage of the 
 Reform Laws, and many excavations have been made in ef- 
 forts to locate it. The ch. walls were badly cracked by the 
 earthquake of April, 1907. 
 
 The Plazuela de Santo Domingo, better known as the 
 Jardin de la Corregidora Dominguez (because of the bronze 
 figure of this heroine which adorns it), was long called the 
 Jardin Juarez , and is yet spoken of by this name. It is one 
 of the oldest of the city plazas; the portales (on the west), with 
 their 22 time-stained columns, were erected in the time of the 
 early Viceroys. A number of patriotic Mexicans were shot here 
 during the French intervention. The Guadalupe tram-cars 
 stop near the church. 
 
 The Escuela Nacional de Medicina (National School of 
 Medicine), opposite the church and plaza of Santo Domingo, 
 faces the street formerly called Sepulero (sepulchre) de 
 Santo Domingo. The building (open all day, free to visitors) 
 which houses the School of Medicine was erected 1732-36 as the 
 Tribunal del Santo Oficio (Holy Office of the Inquisition) on 
 the site of the first Dominican convent built in Mexico. It 
 was long the headquarters of this detestable organization, and 
 many of the rooms were used as cells for victims. The edi- 
 fice contains a fine amphitheatre, a very ample and quaint 
 patio, an observatory, and a biblioteca with about 3,000 
 volumes, mostly in. Spanish. Mexicans have a particular rev- 
 erence for this house (often referred to as the Casa Chata — flat- 
 nosed house — on account of its rounded front) because the 
 celebrated Mexican poet Manuel Acuna (comp. p. clx) poi- 
 soned himself here (Dec. 6, 1873) over a love-affair. Note the 
 curious architectural feature of the patio, the corner pillars, 
 or supports of the upper cloister being missing. 
 
 The Inquisition, or Tribunal del Santo Oficio, a Spanish institution 
 founded about 1480 by Tomas de Torquemada (its first Inquisitor General), 
 began active work in the Spanish Peninsula about 1481. According to the 
 best authorities, from that date to 1808, it burned 34,612 persons alive, 
 18,048 in effigy, and imprisoned 288,109, — the goods and chattels of 
 every one of these being duly confiscated. 
 
 The Dominicans founded the Holy Office in Mexico City in 1571. The 
 royal order authorizing it was issued Aug. 16, 1570. Pedro Moya de Con- 
 treras was the first Inquisitor General of New Spain (Mexico), Guatemala 
 and the Philippine Islands, with headquarters in Mexico City. The 
 Indians were exempted from the jurisdiction of the Santo Oficio, whose 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route . 357 
 
 tremendous powers were exercised against all unbelievers. The principal 
 crimes punished by the society were heresy, sorcery, polygamy, seduc- 
 tion and imposture. Death by burning was the penalty inflicted upon 
 those whose opinions were at variance with those of the church or its 
 instruments. Where the crime was of a mild nature the victims were 
 strangled before being burned. So terrific were the powers of this alleged 
 Holy Office that the Spanish Viceroys in New Spain trembled before its 
 mandates. One redoubtable Viceroy, when called before the officers of 
 the Inquisition, took the precaution of going with a strong body-guard of 
 soldiers, and of advising the Inquisitor that his men had orders to attack 
 the place if he, the Viceroy, did not re- appear on the street in a given time. 
 The first Auto-de-Fe was celebrated in Mexico City in 1574, and 21 per- 
 sons perished. The last victim was the revolutionary patriot and hero 
 General Jose Maria Marelos , who, after being tortured by the inquisitors 
 as “ an unconfessed heretic, an abetter of heretics, a disturber of the ec- 
 clesiastical hierarchy, a profaner of the holy sacraments, a traitor to God, 
 to the King and to the Pope,” was shot (by the royalists) Dec. 22, 1815. 
 
 El Templo de Nuestra Senora de la Encarnacion 
 flanks the 4 a Calle de Donceles (PI. H. 4), and was erected for 
 the once powerful and wealthy nuns of the Order of the Con- 
 cepcionistas ; established in Mexico in 1593. It was begun Dec. 
 18, 1639, and completed Mch. 7, 1648, and when dedicated 
 its pomp and splendor attracted the attention of all the city, 
 and the structure was considered one of the finest that had 
 been erected in the Colonial metropolis. The one-time fine 
 cloister adjoining was added more than a century later (1790), 
 and until recent times it was considered one of the show 
 places of the city. When this convent and church were secu- 
 larized by the Reform Law edict, the church holdings were 
 found to be over one million pesos. Many splendid pictures 
 that once adorned the walls w'ere removed to the Academia 
 de San Carlos, described at p. 308. The faded Assumption 
 of the Virgin over the entrance to the chapel beneath the 
 organ loft is a relic of better days. The several-times reno- 
 vated interior of the ch. shows all the symptoms of the decline 
 of art as applied to ecclesiastical edifices. The darksome sacristy 
 has a dado of blue and white tiles that is an interesting relic 
 of the early adornment of the ch. The time-stained facade, 
 with its massive boss-studded doors and rich carving, is a 
 good specimen of the 17th cent. work. The allegorical subject 
 carved in bas-relief above the E. portal represents the mar- 
 tyrdom of San Lorenzo. That over the W. entrance depicts 
 a scene in the fife of the Virgin. The profusely decorated 
 dome, wnth religious inscriptions in tile-work, and the belfry 
 in the Mudejar style are both quaint and attractive. 
 
 The Church of Santa Catalina de Sena (PL H, 4), on the 
 8 a Calle del Relox (3 squares N. from the Cathedral), has been 
 so clipped and reduced that but a small portion of the origi- 
 nal structure remains. It was primarily a conventual ch., 
 erected (Aug. 15, 1615, dedicated Mch. 7, 1623) by the efforts 
 of certain women of the Dominican faith, and when the fine 
 old Jesuit College of San Ildefonso, hard by, and the then 
 
358 Route J^2. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 beautiful convent and ch. of La Encarnacion were at the ze- 
 nith of their wealth and popularity, it formed one of the trinity 
 that was a power in New Spain. Relics of its former greatness 
 
 — and the chief sights of the interior — are the still fine 
 Churrigueresque altars and reredos ; now somewhat marred 
 by time. Tiie reredo which occupies the N. end of the single 
 nave is the finest of the three. The many santos in high relief, 
 and the score or more medallion paintings almost hidden in 
 the maze of carving and gilding, are not without interest. On 
 the S. wall is a large, unframed painting, La Virgen del 
 Rosario y La Comunidad, which is attributed to Eduardo 
 de Tresguerras (p. cliii). The convent was suppressed by the 
 Reform Laws, and the present ch., with its air of tawdry de- 
 corum, promises soon to go the way of those which 20th cen- 
 tury utilitarianism considers a bar to commercial expansion. 
 
 Two squares N. of the Plaza de Santo Domingo is the dilapi- 
 dated Church of Santa Catarina Martir (Pl.H, 3), which 
 stands upon the site (6th Calle de Santo Domingo) of a more 
 primitive ch., and was dedicated in 1662. The foot stone of 
 the Santa, who stands in a niche above the entrance, bears a 
 carved date, 1667. When the ecclesiastical property was 
 secularized, this ch. was found to be one of the wealthiest in 
 the capital. It is now but a shadow of its former greatness, 
 and is scarcely worth visiting. 
 
 San Antonio Tepito, facing the Plaza de Tepito (PL H. 2), 
 in a neighborhood where soap is made, but apparently never 
 used, is now the chosen temple of a class whose artistic sense 
 is atrophied. The santos of the tumble-down little chapel 
 are physical wrecks, and the place is not worth visiting. 
 
 NuestraSenora del Carmen (PI. H, 3), a very old church 
 facing the Plaza del Carmen (dates from about 1590) with 
 a new facade and a bizarre dome with blue, white and yellow 
 tiles (in the M udcjar style) that serves as a landmark in the 
 neighborhood, was erected by members of the Carmelite order 
 and was redecorated in 1908. Its spick-and-span appearance 
 
 — heightened by the neat little circular garden facing it — 
 forms a bright spot in a somewhat frowsy neighborhood. The 
 wheel window below the clock is one of the few of its kind to 
 be seen in Mexican churches. The Catalonian campanario is 
 quaint. The interior of the ch. is noteworthy for its white 
 marble altars. The new and neat plazuela, which stands just 
 to the E. with its palms and parterres of flowers, is indicative 
 of the civic movement toward cleansing the hitherto unsightly 
 spots of the capital. The feast day of Our Lady of Carmen 
 is usually observed in this ch. with special ceremonies. The 
 large, factory-like building to the E. of the ch. is the Pablo 
 Moreno primary school. 
 
 The Church of Santiago Tlaltelolco (Pl.G, 2), in the 
 yards of the National Railways of Mexico, at the Santiago 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route . 359 
 
 custom-house ( aduana ), was one of the first “ domed churches ” 
 to be erected in New Spain. Dating from about 1543, it was 
 long the centre of an Indian parroquia where certain of the 
 disciples of Fray Pedro de Gante taught the Indians ‘‘Latin, 
 logic and philosophy.” At one time the ch. contained a stone 
 font in which it was claimed Juan Diego was baptized. The old 
 school is now used as a government barrack and the ch. as a 
 storehouse for baled cotton. 
 
 The Church of Santa Inks (PI. H, 4), on the corner of the 
 2 a Calle de Moneda and the l a Academia, diagonally across 
 from the San Carlos Academy , founded in 1600 (dedicated 
 Jan. 20, 1770) by the nuns of the C oncepcidnistas as a convent, 
 is the customary type of conventual ch. in Mexico, — a long, 
 single nave, with barrel-arched vaulting. The interior, newly 
 decorated and reached through two entrances, is uninteresting. 
 The massive wood doors, carved in low relief, represent scenes 
 from the legend of Santa Inez , and suggest bronze treatment. 
 Yellow and blue strips of glazed tiles ornament the dome. 
 After the suppression of the convent, the ch. was dis- 
 mantled and closed for two decades. It was re-opened June 
 11, 1883. 
 
 In the short and narrow Calle Lie. Verdad (PL H, 4), which 
 leads N. from the Calle de Moneda and intersects it at the N. 
 side of the Palacio National , stands the one-time magnificent, 
 and still very imposing, Church of Santa Teresa la Antigua 
 (not to be confounded with S. T. la Nueva referred to at 
 p. 363), begun Oct. 8, 1678, and completed and dedicated Sept. 
 10, 1684. It owes its origin to certain members of the Car- 
 melite Order of Santa Teresa , which was established (at 
 Puebla) in New Spain in 1604. The important dome was erected 
 near the end of the 18th cent., by Don Antonio Gonzalez 
 Velasquez , who came from Spain as the first professor of ar- 
 chitecture for the San Carlos Academy of Fine Arts. The 
 critical traveller will not fail to note the tipsy character of the 
 structure, the rear of which is sunken and is lower than the 
 fagade. The impression one receives is that the church is arch- 
 ing backward in pained surprise at sight of the new structures 
 opposite, and at the general air of progress noticeable in the 
 neighborhood. The old gargoyles and star windows are quaint 
 and attractive. Of the two entrances the S. one is most used. 
 The interior is gloomy, but this is, in a measure, offset by the 
 general air of elegance noted in the fine chapel of El Senor de 
 Santa Teresa , with its many pictures, rich decorations (modern) 
 and marbled altar. The sacristy (at the r.) reminds one of a 
 new bank office. The interior of the shapely dome can be 
 studied to good advantage from this chapel. The large picture 
 on the r. wall (notable for its good color) is a copy of the 
 Transfiguration by Rafael. The companion picture, on the N. 
 wall, a copy of Titian’s Assumption , is by the same painter, J . 
 
360 Route 42. MEXICO CITY San Ildefonso. 
 
 Cordero , and both date from 1857. As the Sacred Wafer is 
 kept on the altar beneath the last-named painting, visitors are 
 not expected to pass behind the railing. 
 
 The most venerated object in the ch. is a crucifix alleged 
 to have been brought from Spain in 1545 and placed in a 
 ch. in a ruining town (Cardonal) in the state of Hidalgo, 
 where it was known as El Santo Cristo de Cardonal. Time 
 destroyed its charm and it was cast into the flames — which 
 refused to consume it. It was then buried, but on being dug 
 up later it was found uninjured, and, w*hat was more marvel- 
 lous, restored, in a measure, to its pristine beauty. Convinced 
 that a miracle had been performed, the Archbishop of Mex- 
 ico, Juan Perez de la Serna, caused the crucifix to be cherished, 
 and in 1634, his successor, Francisco Manzo de Zuniga , 
 erected a chapel for its safe-keeping. Later, when it was re- 
 moved to Mexico City, the people of Cardonal showed that 
 they had been but little benefited by the divine example, for 
 they pummelled, and so battered, the ambassador, that he 
 was obliged to retire to the hospital. The fame of the image 
 was increased by these happenings, and its cult became so 
 great that the present church of Santa Teresa was built for 
 its accommodation. The splendid dome, the chancel, and 
 part of the vaulted roof were badly shattered by the earth- 
 quake of April 7, 1845, and a fine and curious fresco by Rafael 
 Jimeno — representing the fight between the archbishop’s 
 henchmen and the populacho of Cardonal — was unfortu- 
 nately destroyed. Singularly enough, the miraculous crucifix 
 was considerably damaged. Note the semi-circular painting, 
 The Coronation of the Virgin, on the N. w*all of the nave, above 
 the organ loft. Unsigned and undated. 
 
 The Escuela Nacional Preparatoria (National Prepara- 
 tory Military School), housed in the fine old Colegio de San 
 Jldefonso (PI. H, 4), in the 2 ° calle of the same name, is one of 
 the most attractive edifices of its class in the city. It is an un- 
 usually massive structure, very large and long, in the severe 
 Baroque style, with two splendid patios and a facade of te- 
 zontlc stained a light wine-red. It w T as completed (by the Jes- 
 uits) in 1740 at a cost of S400,000. It covers nearly an entire 
 city block, and the two huge, mediaeval-looking doors, and 
 the forty or more quaint windows wilich pierce the facade, 
 make it highly interesting. The double doors of the W. section, 
 wherein is the Gov’t school for boys, are high, finely carved 
 in low* relief, and swmng, like all those of the early buildings 
 of this class, on massive pivots, let into soffits in the floor 
 and ceiling. The doors are wide enough to admit a trolley- 
 car. Over the entrance is a handsome allegorical tablet in 
 white marble. By passing through the zaguan and into the 
 patio (no fees) one can sometimes see the students at drill. 
 This cloistered court is a fine example of the old-style, colon- 
 
MEXICO CITY 42. Route. 361 
 
 naded patio which, though distinctively Moorish, is credited 
 by many writers to the early Aztec builders. 
 
 The E. end of the building, with its cloister, is less attractive 
 than the W. end. Albeit the carved wood doors are made to 
 represent their counterparts at the W. end, they are new and 
 date from 1907. They are much smaller than the other doors, 
 and are surmounted by allegorical figures, and encased in a 
 very good example of a reconstructed Baroque archway. A 
 long line of plain gargoyles runs the length of the roof of the 
 structure, and on a rainy day the streams which spout from 
 them to the street give the effect of scores of tiny water- 
 falls. 
 
 The silleria in the Sala de Adas once formed the choir-stalls 
 in the old San Agustin church, now the Biblioteca Nacional. 
 Mr. Baxter considers “ these exquisitely beautiful choir stalls 
 (somewhat damaged by time and neglect) one of the great 
 artistic sights of Mexico. They are comparable in charm to 
 the best of similar work in Europe, combining the rich and 
 graceful character of the F ree Renaissance with something of the 
 quaintly naive spirit of Gothic carving. Their date is unknown, 
 as well as their authorship, but they probably were made at 
 the time of the dedication of the ch. in 1692. That they were 
 wrought by Mexican hands is apparent from certain touches 
 of local color in various reliefs — such as the depiction of 
 monkeys and other tropical animals in scenes like the Garden 
 of Eden, including the famous Mexican bird, the guacamayo. 
 At present these stalls comprise but 135 panels, including the 
 one with the beautiful example of decorative lettering de- 
 voted to the customary Hinc est Chorus. Beside the large 
 arched panels in each stall, there is a smaller one beneath, 
 and another of the same small size in the back of each seat. The 
 bottom of every seat, which shows when folded up, is also 
 carved with a handsome design. The purely ornamental 
 carving is exceedingly rich, containing many charming heads 
 and graceful figures. The whole design is excellent in form 
 and beautifully proportioned.” In this same hall of Cere- 
 monies are two great mural paintings by Jose Antonio Vallejo: 
 the Holy Family , accompanied by angels, bears the date of 
 1761. The Pentecost of like dimensions, occupying the wall 
 on the right in what was formerly the sacristy, but is now a 
 portion of the library, ranks as one of the painter’s best works. 
 It shows the influence of Murillo very strongly. 
 
 Like many .of the older buildings in the capital this one 
 is considerably out of plumb. It owes its existence to an order 
 promulgated by the General of the Order of the Jesuits in 
 Mexico to consolidate their several existing seminaries into one 
 institution, and it represents the amalgamation of the old- 
 time colleges of San Gregorio, San Miguel, San Bernardo and 
 San Pedro y San Pablo. The commemorative tablet (placed 
 
362 Route 42 . 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Loreto Church. 
 
 in 1907) in this school refers to one of the first Professors of 
 Chemistry, Don Leopoldo Rio de la Loza , who taught here 
 between 1868 and 1872. Beside a full modern equipment 
 the school possesses a fine collection of replicas in chalk of the 
 sculptured masterpieces of Michael Angelo in the palace of 
 the Medicis of Florence ; also a library of some 14,000 volumes, 
 chiefly for the school work. Across the street, on the comer 
 of the Calles de Relox and San Ildefonso, is the new Escuela 
 de J urisprudencia (School of Jurisprudence) in the Greek style, 
 completed in 1908 at a cost of 8250,000. The fine Sala 
 de Adas, on the 2d floor, is decorated and possesses a hand- 
 some silleria. 
 
 The Church of Nuestra Senora de Loreto (PI. H, 4), fac- 
 ing the long, narrow plazuela of the same name, is chiefly 
 interesting to travellers because one side has sunk so deep 
 below the pavement that the edifice seems ready to topple 
 over into the street. It was begun in 1809, and was com- 
 pleted and dedicated Aug. 29, 1816 (cost 8517,000), under the 
 superintendence of the celebrated architect Manuel Tolsa, in 
 collaboration with A. Paz. Differences of opinion with the 
 church authorities led to one of the walls being constructed 
 of hard stone, the other of porous amygdaloid, with the result 
 that soon after its completion it began to sink, — a fatality 
 which seemed to pursue most of the grandiose works of Tolsa. 
 The tipsy character of the structure so alarmed the parish- 
 ioners that it was closed from 1832 to 1850, when competent 
 engineers carefully inspected it and pronounced it safe. 
 Though now in a ruinous state the ch. is still the best example 
 of a distinctively Jesuit edifice in Mexico. It affords — not 
 exactly to its financial advantage — a record of the contempt 
 of fashion and commerce for things ecclesiastical; stranded, as 
 it is, in a tawdry and grimy neighborhood, far in the wake of 
 the city life bent on its westward way. The untidy shop 
 plastered to its E. side wall awakens thoughts of a cancer- 
 ous growth that will in time destroy what once was one of 
 the finest churches of the Republic. 
 
 From a distance the uneven character of the structure is 
 particularly striking. The dome seems to smother it like a 
 gigantic Phrygian cap or a colossal inverted bowl. The plas- 
 ter has fallen from the pillars and exposed the bricks beneath, 
 and the entire building is the victim of neglect. The rusty iron 
 grill which gives entrance is usually closed after 10 a. m. ex- 
 cept on Sundays, as the ch. is non-parochial and the worship 
 differs from that of the parroquias. The sacristan resides in 
 the school ( escuela ) at the house number 14, a few doors down 
 the street to the left (W.). Small fee acceptable. The 7 dilap- 
 idated paintings on the second landing of t he stair leading to his 
 abode refer to episodes in the life of St. Ignatius. We enter 
 the ch. through the school yard. 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route. 363 
 
 The ch. is cruciform, of the Doric order, with four rotundas 
 that are substituted for the minor branches of the Latin cross. 
 The large painting above the entrance to the Capilla de San 
 Juan , through which we pass, is of the Sagrada Familia, and 
 is unsigned. In this chapel there is also an indifferent picture 
 of Our Lady of Loreto. On the pilaster (left) of the first rotunda 
 (opposite the pulpit) is a fine San Gregorio (attributed to Joa- 
 quin Esquivel) which once hung beneath the choir loft. There 
 is also a St. Joseph and San Joaquin and a San Ignacio de 
 Loyola , founder of the Jesuit Order. In the second rotunda 
 is an Anunciacion (by Jose Maria Vasquez) with the date 
 1817, and another San Ignacio de Loyola , also said to have 
 been painted by Esquivel. The principal figure of the main 
 altar is the much venerated figurine of Nuestra Sehora de 
 Loreto , brought from Italy by a Jesuit friar in 1675. The silver 
 crown on the Virgin’s head resembles an inverted cartridge. 
 
 When this image reached Mexico there was great rejoicing among the 
 confraternity, and the persistent — and somewhat contumacious — 
 monks of the order cast about for a suitable home for their patroness. 
 Many vicissitudes beset them: the Dominicans (founders of the Inquisi- 
 tion) opposed them strenuously; they came into conflict with the Uni- 
 versity ; their order was on the eve of being suppressed (which in reality 
 it was a century later), and for some years they housed their much ven- 
 erated image in a little chapel built on the site of the baptistry of the old 
 ch. of San Gregorio. The fame of the image spread, and in 1686 a larger 
 chapel was built, to be followed, in 1738, by a still larger one. 
 
 By the decree of the Spanish Cortes of June 25, 1767, their order was 
 suppressed, but it was reestablished by the royal order of Sept. 10, 
 1815. Ferdinand VII suppressed it again, but the Mexican President 
 Santa Anna reestablished it in Mexico, by a decree dated 1853. Its 
 final suppression was due to President Ignacio Comonfort, who issued the 
 order June 7, 1856. During all these troublous times the sturdy monks 
 lived from “ pillar to post” ; the Loreto Church was their last stronghold 
 in Mexico. 
 
 The two mediocre paintings on the walls of the high altar 
 are Of Jesus and Mary. In the rotunda to the right of this 
 is a large picture of San Ciro Medico , Anacoreta y Mdrtir. 
 Th e Virgin of Guadalupe , in the centre, is attributed to 
 Cabrera. To the right is a San Gregorio Papa, of good color- 
 ing, perhaps the work of Villalpando or one of his pupils. The 
 central picture of the altar in the 4th rotunda is known as La 
 Virgen del Refugio . The remaining pictures call for no partic- 
 ular mention. 
 
 The great dome which rises above the rotundas was once 
 beautifully decorated, and was considered the finest in Mexico. 
 It is still thought to be “the grandest in style and proportion, 
 of the city churches.” It is now dilapidated and but a simula- 
 crum of its one-time splendor. The interior of the edifice is 
 so out of plumb that a stiffish earthquake would probably 
 send the ch. tumbling to the ground. The allegorical group 
 of the fagade is interesting. 
 
 The Church of Santa Teresa la Nueva (called the new 
 
364 Route 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Mint. 
 
 to distinguish it from Santa Teresa la Antigua, described at 
 p. 359), a Carmelite foundation dating from 1701, is housed in 
 a huge, fortress-like building, with numerous square and ob- 
 long windows overlooking the pretty, flower-decked Plazuela 
 and Jardin de Nuestra Sefiorade Loreto (PL H, 4) . The primitive 
 church was completed and dedicated in 1716, but repeated 
 renovations have damaged it. The spruce little tower at the 
 N.-W. corner is modern. The sombre red paint of the facade 
 is also a recent calamity. The one-time splendid interior has 
 suffered such remorseless ‘‘improvements'’ that it is now of 
 no interest to the traveller. The old gargoyles along the front 
 resemble ancient blunderbusses, and are attractive relics of 
 Colonial days; they point westward toward the modern cap- 
 ital like menacing fingers, and awaken suggestions of inquisi- 
 torial wrath and of excommunications against the progress 
 which has left this one-time Carmelite stronghold high, dry 
 and almost deserted in a decadent neighborhood. 
 
 The church is rarely open on week days, but the visitor to 
 the barrio , though he be denied entrance, is often repaid for 
 his fit tie journey by the sight of the frolicsome crowds of 
 happy school-girls, who at stated intervals pour forth from 
 the adjacent (W. side of the plazuela) Escuela de Nuestra 
 Sehora del Pilar , and spend their recess in the sunny little 
 garden. 
 
 Around the corner from the ch. and plastered against it» 
 eastern side, is the new and imposing Cuartel de Infanteria , 
 of the 23d Battalion. 
 
 The Mint, or Casa de Moneda, in the 5 a Calle del Apartado, 
 near the S.-W. corner of the plazuela , is referred to at p. xiii. 
 
 The Church of Jesus Maria (PL H, 4), founded by the 
 Misioneros del Corazon de Maria (in the 3 a Calle Jesus Maria , 
 2 squares back of the Pcdacio), is a massive, squat edifice in 
 the so-called Transition style, said to have been originally 
 founded as a convent to be known as Jesus Maria . The au- 
 thorization for this establishment was given by Pope Greg- 
 ory XIII, in a papal bull dated Jan. 21, 1578. The two en- 
 trances are reached through a long and narrow atrium planted 
 with banana and other trees. The corner-stone of the existing 
 church was laid March 9, 1597, and the ch. was dedicated 
 Feb. 7, 1621. The Patron of the institution is El Nino Per- 
 dido 1 (the lost Child — referring to Christ’s visit to the Doc- 
 tors of the Church). Symbolic of this incident is the fine 
 painting (name of painter and date unknown) that fills the 
 great arch behind the aUar mayor . There is reason for be- 
 lieving that this is the work of Echave the Elder (p. cxlv), 
 
 1 And it came to pass, that after three days they found Him in the 
 temple, sitting in the midst of the doctors, both hearing them, and asking 
 them questions. And all that heard Him were astonished at His under- 
 standing and answers. — Luke ii, 46-47. 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 42 . Route . 365 
 
 though it has been attributed to Cordero. Its splendid color- 
 ing and excellent technique are enhanced by comparison with 
 the two other pictures in the chancel. Adorning this high 
 altar is a handsome, costly and undoubtedly antique candela- 
 brum of fire gilt. (As a rule similar candelabra are of wood 
 covered with gold leaf.) The modern decorations (the work of 
 Daniel del Valle) of the ch. are in pleasing colors. Two of 
 the handsome canvases in the sacristy are by the same painter. 
 One of these (above the entrance) represents the Virgin , the 
 Child Jesus and Fray Antonio Maria Clarete, founder of the 
 order of Los Misioneros Hijos del Corazon de Maria. The 
 picture on the left wall, distinguished by somewhat glaring 
 colors, represents Clarete and the Hermanos of the Order. 
 
 The striking oval picture on the r. wall shows the young 
 Cristo debating with the wise men in the temple. The name 
 and date of this picture are lacking, but it is perhaps by the 
 same painter who did the big one over the. high altar. The 
 names on the other two pictures are misleading, as they refer 
 to the patrons who paid for the work. The little capilla 
 through which we pass to enter the sacristy is very showy, 
 with many electric lights and a contrivance for allowing water 
 to ripple over the stones. Hundreds of electric lamps aid in 
 the illumination of the main body of the ch. The modern 
 stained glass windows are chiefly of German make. Those 
 in the panels of the doors are Mexican. One or two of the old 
 wheel windows which admit light to the nave are worthy of 
 note. Opposite the main altar is the organ loft, reached through 
 a lumber room. The organ is old and wheezy. The unusually 
 small tower and belfry which surmounts the ch., where it is 
 joined to the old convent, impart a bizarre appearance to the 
 weighty edifice. 
 
 The narrow calle (de la Moneda) at the N.-E. angle of the 
 Plaza Mayor leads (past the side of the Palacio Nacional) to 
 the 
 
 Church of La Santisima Trinidad (The Most Holy Trinity) 
 in the Calle de la Santisima and near an unkempt plazuela 
 (PI. I, 4) . This ch., commonly known as La Santisima , begun in 
 1755 and dedicated Jan. 17, 1783, has, after the Sagrario 
 Metropolitano, the most important and elaborate Churriguer- 
 esque exterior in the City of Mexico. It is perhaps the work 
 of the same architect, Lorenzo Rodriguez , a devoted student of 
 the so-called debased style of Churriguera. “The symbolism 
 of the name of the ch., together with the fact that it belonged 
 to the Congregation of St. Peter, finds unique and appropriate 
 embodiment in the adoption of the triple crown of the Papacy 
 for the crown of the tower and the central ornament of the 
 facade. The sculpture of this fagade, now in a ruinous state, 
 though decoratively effective, is much inferior to that of the 
 Sagrario.” The intricate niches and windings of this one-time 
 
366 Route J>2. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 splendid work are now the home of many pigeons — palomas. 
 Corners have been knocked from the sculptures, cobbles have 
 replaced the old work at the base, and the entire struc- 
 ture is dirty and neglected. The manifest uncleanliness 
 of the immediate neighborhood adds to the triste aspect. 
 The handsome Churrigueresque entrance that once gave on 
 the 3 a CaUe de San Lazaro, has been allowed to fall into a 
 ruinous state. It was blocked up for many years, but was re- 
 opened in 1909. The iron reja which flanks the street dates 
 from that period. The red-stained tezontle of which the side 
 walls are constructed is usually a characteristic of the very 
 oldest houses. The large dome is a strikingly good one ; the dec- 
 orations of glazed tiles set in a dusky reddish plain surface 
 are visible from a great distance. The lantern dome is entirely 
 covered with glazed tiles between the ribs, and the weather- 
 beaten tower, with its decided list toward the street, looks 
 ready to topple under its weight of years. 
 
 The finely proportioned interior of the ch. has but little 
 to interest in detail. The large painting on the r. wall, of the 
 Sehora Santa Ana and one of her devotees, is curious in that 
 collars of real pearls have been attached to the canvas. The 
 somewhat glaring capilla on the 1., with its gilded columns, 
 dates from 1908. The most revered object in the ch. is the 
 life-size group (modern) of polychrome figures representing 
 the Holy Trinity. The somewhat daring personification of 
 the Supreme Being could have been carried out in better taste. 
 The crown which surmounts the seated figure was stolen in 
 1907, but was recovered. 
 
 The large Parochial Church of La Soledad de Santa 
 Cruz (PI. 1,4), one of the oldest religious foundations in the 
 city, is said to date from about 1534, — a decade after the fall 
 of Tenochtitlan. The existing ch. has doubtless undergone 
 repeated renovations, as the manifestly new fa$ade is sur- 
 mounted by the government coat-of-arms, and the stone is 
 not the tezontle usually employed in the older edifices. Ac- 
 cording to the ch. chronicles, the older portion of the present 
 ch. was dedicated Oct. 21, 1731, and renovated in 1791. It 
 occupies the site of a ch. built by some of the first Aztec con- 
 verts to Christianity. A somewhat glaring feature of the gray 
 stone facade is a recess containing a polychrome figure, with 
 voluminous skirts and a spreading gilt crown, of the San- 
 tisima Virgen de la Soledad.. Below the figure, carved in the 
 stone, is the somewhat ambiguous inscription: 
 
 Nadie pase este lugar sin que afirme con su viaa que Maria fue concebida 
 sin la culpa original. 
 
 No one passes this spot who does not affirm with his life that Mary was 
 conceived without the original sin. 
 
 Other niches contain doctors of the ch. The two ordinary 
 towers contain (on the left) a clock and (right) a campanario. 
 
MEXICO CITY 42 . Route . 367 
 
 The brown dome is surmounted by a lantern with slit 
 windows. 
 
 We enter beneath the organ loft. On the N. and S. walls 
 are hundreds of small, square paintings, supposed to represent 
 crucial episodes in the lives of devotees who were “ cured,” or 
 saved from untimely death, by the miraculous intervention 
 of la Santisima Virgen. The pictures are almost as crude 
 as the reasoning of the protagonists. It is the custom of cer- 
 tain devotees of the miraculous image of the Virgin to kneel 
 at the ch. door and edge along on their knees down the entire 
 length of the interior to the comulgatorio . A series of clustered 
 columns covered with plaster and paint separate the huge nave 
 from the lateral aisles. The three altars on the r. are over- 
 decorated. Between the two altars on the 1. is the interesting 
 Capilla de la Escuela de la Soledad, with a number of quaint 
 old medallion-like paintings, a black Christ (life size) crucified, 
 and a curious polychrome group, in low relief, representing 
 the descent from the cross. 
 
 The High Altar , of white marble, has for its centrepiece 
 the much venerated image of the Santisima Virgen de la 
 Soledad. For a small fee the sacristan conducts the visitor to 
 the rear of the altar and thence, by a series of iron ladders, 
 through a small opening to the high, sacrosanct retreat of 
 the Virgin. The footing on the ladder and the upper ridge of the 
 high altar is precarious, and bulky travellers should be 
 satisfied with a distant view. To the r. of the main altar is a 
 huge painting, about 20 ft. square, unsigned and of good color- 
 ing, of Christ on his way to Calvary. The ecclesiastics who 
 form a part of the procession as it emerges from the Jerusalem 
 gate are represented in a realistic manner. The companion 
 piece, on the 1. of the altar, represents an episode in the life 
 of Santa Elena de la Cruz. It is of equal size, and is neither 
 signed nor dated. According to the ch. records they are anti- 
 quisima (very old), and are perhaps the work of Echave el 
 Mozo (p. cxlviii), or a contemporary painter. In the coro. at the 
 opposite end of the ch. (reached by a roundabout passageway 
 outside the building), is a large picture representing scenes in 
 the life of la Santisima Virgen. The walls of the school ad- 
 joining the ch. are hung with dilapidated paintings of great 
 antiquity but no merit. The chief devotees of the shrine of 
 this Virgin belong to the middle and lower classes. 
 
 The San Lazaro District was at one time thickly sprinkled 
 with churches, many of which have been demolished. Promi- 
 nent among these was the Church of San Lazaro, founded in 
 1572 (by the Order of the Juaninos ) as a leper hospital and 
 known as El Hospital de San Lazaro. The original structure 
 cost 80,000 pesos , and an idea of its massiveness can be gathered 
 from the hulk which is now dismantled and is used as a fac- 
 tory. The weather-beaten Ch. of Santo Tomas de la Palma 
 
368 Route 42. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 (PI. I, 5), hard by to the S.-E., an Augustinian foundation 
 dating from 1550, is a relic of the palmy days which followed 
 the Conquest. Near this dilapidated ch. is a small structure 
 called San Gerdnimo (PI. I, 5), founded by the Concepcionistas 
 as a convent in 1 586. Its only claim to fame is that here Juana 
 Ines de la Cruz (p. cxlix) took the vqjl and lived until she 
 died in 1695. The cell in which this celebrated Musa Mexi- 
 cana dwelt is still to be seen. At present the ch. stands in 
 a most uninviting neighborhood — one where the frowsy 
 populaclio expect miracles to be performed 'without the aid 
 of soap. 
 
 The small Chapel of La Candelaria , with a Catalonian belfry 
 (PI. I, 5), is near the San Gerdnimo ch. and is likewise uninter- 
 esting. Not far away is the tumble-down Church of El Rosario. 
 San Antonio Tomatlan , to the N.-W. of the Sa?i Lazaro station, 
 is not worth looking at. To the N.-W. of the San Lazaro sta- 
 tion is the infamous Colonia de la Bolsa (PL I, 3), a sort of 
 plague spot for crime, -which the Government is trying to 
 stamp out. 
 
 The Penitentiary (La Penitenciaria) , in the E. quarter of 
 the city, is reached by the tranvia of the Pehon de los Banos 
 (from the Plaza Mayor at frequent intervals, fare 6 c.), or 
 on foot by a short walk N.-E. from the Estacion de San Lazaro 
 of the Ferrocarril Interocednico (PI. J, 4). The structure forms 
 one of a group comprising the Escuela de Tiro de ArtiUeria and 
 the R astro Nuevo — new abattoir. The walk through the un- 
 savory purlieus is not interesting. The building, referred to 
 by delinquents as palacio bianco (white palace), is one of 
 the most perfect^ appointed establishments of its kind; two 
 stories high, with a superficial extension of 32,700 sqr. meters, 
 and an elevator which ascends to the observation tower, 124 
 ft. high. The prison is supplied with artesian water, which is 
 pumped into a tank in this torre , and has accommodations for 
 over 1,000 prisoners. It required five years to complete and 
 cost $2,500,000. The cells ( celdas ), of which there are 1,000, 
 have steel-lined w r alls and cement floors; the corridors con- 
 verge toward a common centre. The system is the Irish 
 Croffton (with some modifications), with tw r o extensive de- 
 partments for men and women. Besides an immense Ameri- 
 can kitchen range on which food for one thousand persons 
 can be cooked at one time, the prison (inaugurated Sept. 28, 
 1900) contains a hospital, a library, baths, and many con- 
 veniences. Absolute silence is enjoined on the prisoners, who 
 are usually long-term convicts. Applications for permits to 
 visit the building should be addressed to the Director on the 
 premises. 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route. 369 
 
 South-West Quarters of the City. 
 
 Belem Prison. La Ciudadela. Instituto Medico Nacional. 
 Churches of El Salto de Agua and La Merced. San Juan Market. 
 San Jose de los Naturales. Church of El Corazon de Jesus. 
 La Sagrada Familia. American Sch ool. Bull- Ring. Colonias Juarez, 
 Roma and Condesa. Washington Monument. Panteon Frances. 
 
 Belem Prison {car cel de Belem — Bethlehem), in the south- 
 western part of the city (PL F, 5), is reached by the Peralvillo 
 y Belem tram-line, fare 6 cts. Inspection is permitted, but 
 the prison is not representative. The edifice is one of the oldest 
 in the city (erected 1683), and owes its being to the good Padre 
 Domingo Perez de Barcia, who with funds begged from the 
 charitable founded it as an asylum for indigent religious 
 women. It began its career under the name of the Colegio de 
 San Miguel de Belem (College of St. Michael of Bethlehem), 
 albeit for many years it was known to the vulgar-minded as the 
 Colegio de las Mochas (the cropped ones) . 
 
 The prison is usually overcrowded, containing from 5,000 
 to 6,000 criminals at one time. It is estimated that 100,000 
 degenerates pass through it in the course of a single year. 
 Dangerous and long-term prisoners are removed to the Peni - 
 tenciaria of the Federal District or to other prisons within the 
 Republic. Executions usually take place in the Patio del 
 Jardin. Belem is a microbic spot and should be avoided. 
 
 La Ciudadela (citadel), which houses the Museo Nacional 
 de Artilleria (Natfi Museum of Artillery), is a long, low build- 
 ing (open, free, to visitors) used chiefly as an arsenal. See the 
 PI. F, 5. It dates from 1700, and long bore an unsavory reputa- 
 tion for pronunciamientos and revoluciones. The library con- 
 tains 4,000 volumes. In the park facing the building is a 
 commanding monument (inaugurated May 2, 1912) sur- 
 mounted by a fine bronze figure of the patriot Morelos; it 
 commemorates the centenary of the siege of Cuautla (p. 466). 
 The other figures are (front), Matamoros ; (r.) Bravo; (1.) 
 Galeana. Inscriptions on the base advise that the monument 
 is a memorial presented by the National Army ( ejercito 
 nacional ), that it is the work of Ingeniero Carlos Noriega; 
 that the idea for its erection was initiated by the Military 
 College; that Francisco de la Barra was president at the time 
 of its inception; that Jose Gonzales Salas was secretary of war; 
 and that when it was inaugurated Francisco I. Madero was 
 president, and General Angel Garcia Pena secretary of war. 
 Four big cannons, on carriages, adorn the zocle on which the 
 shaft rests. 
 
 El Instituto Medico Nacional (National Medical In- 
 stitute) on the Avenida Balderas, in the S.-W.part of the city 
 (PI. F,4), dates from 1907 and cost $213,882.54. There is 
 a chair of Natural History, Chemistry, Physiology, Clinical 
 Therapeutics, and Geography and Climate. Particular atten- 
 
370 Route 42. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 tion is devoted to the study of the Mexican fauna and flora, 
 and the stranger interested in seeing specimens and obtain- 
 ing information thereabout is referred to the director in 
 charge of the institute. The edifice is in the Renaissance style 
 and is attractive. 
 
 La Parroquia de la Concepcion del Salto de Agua 
 (PI. F, 5) dates from about the middle of the 16th cent, and 
 faces the square wherein the ruinous remains of the city 
 end of the old Chapultepec aqueduct now stand. The interior 
 of the ch. is tawdry and grimy with years, with some worth- 
 less paintings. Note the two queer old wheels of bells, near 
 the high altar. The exterior recalls that of the fine old San 
 Yldefonso (p. 360) school; the star windows, the pink tezontle, 
 the gargoyles and the quaint niches — from which the saints 
 have all disappeared — all being reminders of the earliest ar- 
 chitecture of Colonial times. The Jardin to the N.-W. is that 
 of Alfonso Herrera. 
 
 The one-time fine fountain (erected in 1779 by the Viceroy 
 Antonio Maria de Bucareli ) in the centre of the square is now 
 sadly dilapidated. The tablets let into the sides refer to the 
 date of erection and to the viceroy who ruled at the time. 
 
 The Colegio de San Ignacio, 2 squares to the N.-E. of 
 this spot, is described at p. 352. 
 
 The tumble-down Church of La Merced, called also San 
 Pedro de Belem, one square E. of the Belem Prison and hard 
 by the Salto de Agua, is an old landmark. The main entrance, 
 which is often closed, faces the Plaza de los Arcos de Belem , 
 with some tall eucalyptus trees and a government school. The 
 newer entrance gives on to the 4 a Calle de los Arcos de Be- 
 lem (PI. F, 5), and leads through the new chapel of the Socorro 
 Perpetua , behind the altar of which one must pass to reach the 
 nave of the older ch. The latter was closed for fifty years 
 after the passage of the Reform Laws. The two time-stained 
 C hurrigueresque altars in the transepts are good specimens of 
 the early craftsmanship. The eight pictures let into the S. 
 reredo are unsigned, as is also the old painting of the Holy 
 Trinity, near the entrance. Above the high altar there is a 
 huge painting, The Triumph of the Virgin. 
 
 The San Juan Market, in the plaza of the same name 
 (PI. F, 4), is one of the busiest of the city mercados. A host of 
 lovely flowers can, as a rule, be bought here at about half the 
 prices charged in the Mercado de Flores (p. 293). Bargaining 
 always necessary. On the west side of the Plaza de San Juan 
 is the huge factory of the Buen Tono Cigarette Co., perhaps 
 the largest factory devoted exclusively to the manufacture of 
 cigarettes in the Republic, 
 
 The Parochial Church of San Jose de los Naturales, 
 a weather-beaten structure which dates from the early years 
 of 1800, overlooks (from the N.) the usually crowded market. 
 
West Quarter . 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route. 371 
 
 and is noteworthy only for its quaint architecture. The odd, 
 Byzantine-like tower, decorated (in the Mudejar style) with 
 blue and yellow lustred tiles, is a landmark. The twin belfries 
 and the (second) undecorated dome give the ch. an appear- 
 ance of greater size than the single nave proves it to possess. 
 The entire structure was badly shattered by an earthquake 
 in July, 1858, and the new decorations proved, in an artistic 
 sense, more destructive than the seismic upheaval. The dis- 
 trict in which the ch. and market stand was formerly called 
 Moyotlan. 
 
 The Jesuit Church of La Sagrada Familia (the Holy Family), 
 with bizarre towers, at the intersection of the Calles Orizaba 
 and Puebla, dates from 1922, and calls for no particular men- 
 tion. It contains none of the beautiful pictures or carvings 
 characteristic of certain of the older churches of the capital. 
 
 The Church of El Corazon de Jesus, facing the l a Calle 
 de Londres and the 2 a de Roma, in the Colonia Juarez 
 (PI. E, 5), dates from 1907, and is a fair type of the style of ch. 
 that is springing up in the new colonias of the capital. The 
 colored glass windows are of local workmanship. 
 
 The American School ( escuela americana), at the corner of 
 the Calles de Vera Cruz and San Luis Potosi (PL D, 7) dates 
 from 1922 (corner stone laid Feb. 23d) and stands on land 
 given by Mr. Edwin Orrin . Resident Americans gave money, 
 time and services to the undertaking, as did many philan- 
 thropic Mexicans — in generous appreciation of benefits con- 
 ferred on their own children by American institutions for 
 learning in the U.S.A. The school supercedes a smaller one 
 which for many years existed in another part of the capital. 
 
 The Plaza de Toros, near by, is described at p. xcvii. The 
 Colonias Juarez , Roma and Condesa are mentioned at 
 pp. 263-264. 
 
 A striking Monument to George Washington, erected by 
 Americans and presented by them to the Mexican people in 
 1910, on the centenary of their struggle for Independence, 
 stands in the Plaza de Dinamarca (PL D, 5). 
 
 The Cementerio (or Panteon) Frances, the property of 
 the Sociedad de Beneficencia francesa (French Benefit Society), 
 on the Calzada de la Piedad (La Piedad tranvias from the 
 Zocalo frequently), is well cared for, and contains many hand- 
 some tombs and monuments. Though established by, and 
 for, the French Colony, and primarily intended for French 
 people, many rich Mexicans are buried here. The inscrip- 
 tion on the artistic iron grill which guards the entrance says: 
 Heureux qui Meurt dans le Seigneur. The capilla at the foot 
 of the avenue leading from the entrance is where Catholic 
 services are held over the remains of those who die in the 
 faith. 
 
372 Route 42 . 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 El P ciseo. 
 
 West Quarters of the City. 
 
 Calles de Bucareli. Paseo de la Reforma. Equestrian Statue 
 of Charles IV. Statue of Christopher Columbus. Statue of 
 Cuauhtemoc. Monument to National Independence. Chapultepec 
 Castle and Park. Chapultepec Heights Colony. Molino del 
 Rey. Panteon de Dolores. 
 
 The Calles de Bucareli, a chain of wide streets leading south- 
 ward from the Plaza de la Reforma, were opened Dec. 8, 1775, 
 and named for the Viceroy Don Antonio Maria de Bucareli y 
 XJrsua. Time was when these streets formed one of the most 
 fashionable paseos in the city. Four lines of splendid trees 
 (1,064 in all) and a large fountain (where the clock tower 
 now stands) were formerly features of it, and the four parallel 
 drives, which were shaded and well kept, were thronged with 
 gay equipages long before the Paseo de la Reforma was made. 
 
 The Paseo de la Reforma (PL E, 4), prolonging the Ave- 
 nida Juarez, leads from the Plaza de la Reforma (wherein 
 stands the bronze equestrian statue of Charles IV) through 
 the western part of the city to Chapultepec Park, and is 
 the finest and most fashionable avenida in the Republic. 
 Its E. terminus is 1,700 yards from the Plaza Mayor, and the 
 entire length of the avenue, from the Caballito to the Castle 
 gate, is about 2 M. (3,750 yards). It was constructed by the 
 order of the Archduke Maximilian for the double purpose of 
 beautifying the city and establishing a direct road therefrom 
 to the imperial retreat on the crest of Chapultepec hill. When 
 completed (1866) it was known variously as the Calzada del 
 Emperador , the Paseo de Colon and Paseo de Maximillano. 
 Its present name commemorates the celebrated Reform Laws 
 of the Juarez Government. The Empress Carlota caused a 
 double row of eucalyptus trees to be planted along its entire 
 length, and in time these attained magnificent proportions, 
 and converted the popular driveway into a tunnel arched over 
 with green foliage. With the draining of the Valley so much 
 moisture was taken from the sub-soil that most of the giant 
 trees died and fell. A number of the original trees 1 still stand 
 and flank a foot-path leading N. from near the castle gate. 
 
 Between the bronze statue and the castle gate are six 
 glorietas (bowers), each 400 ft. in diameter, adorned with fine 
 monuments and parterres of flowers. Flanking the roadway 
 are a number of Greek vases and shafts surmounted by bronze 
 statues of national celebrities, the gifts of the various Mexican 
 States. The inscription on the front base of each statue gives 
 the name of the person; that on the side refers to the state 
 and the date. The handsome houses which flank the Paseo 
 have all been erected since 1890. 
 
 The broad calzada which leads southwest from the Paseo, 
 
 1 A peculiarity of the medicinally charged and very pungent eucalyp- 
 tus leaves is that they are placed upright, so that both sides are equally 
 exposed to the light. 
 
i . Bronze Horse. MEXICO CITY J&. Route. 373 
 
 near the Park entrance, traverses Tacubaya, Mixcoac, San 
 Pedro and other minor towns, and leads to San Angel and the 
 attractive San Angel Inn . 
 
 The wide road which leads off to the right, near the entrance 
 to the Park, connects with the Calzada de la Veronica, which 
 in turn passes the old American Cemetery and joins the high- 
 road trending northwest to Tacuba, Popotla , and Azcapot- 
 zalco. 
 
 The two handsome gilded bronze lions (on massive Mex. 
 marble bases) which guard the outer entrance to the Park, 
 weigh 14 tons each and are of French origin (F. Barbadienne , 
 Paris). They were placed in position Sept. 16, 1921. 
 
 The new brown stone gateway at the left (S.-W.) marks the 
 site of an old aqueduct and fountain which were demolished 
 two decades ago. Some of the original stones were used in the 
 present construction, which is supposed to be a faithful copy 
 of the old work. 
 
 The Bronze Equestrian Statue of Charles IV ( Estatua 
 ecuestre de Carlos Cuatro), called also the “Iron Horse” and 
 “El Caballito’ > (the little horse), stands in the Plaza de la Re- 
 forma (P1.F,4), at the head of the Paseo de la Reforma, where 
 it joins the Avenida Juarez and the Calles de Bucareli. Visible 
 from many directions the statue serves excellently as a land- 
 mark for visitors unacquainted with the south-western part 
 of the city. It was the first important bronze statue made 
 in America; Humboldt declared it the second finest eques- 
 trian statue in the world; the first being, in his opinion, that 
 of Marcus Aurelius, at Rome. It has ever been unpopular 
 with Mexicans, and it long served as the butt for satirical poems, 
 and pasquinades. It has occupied several sites in the city, and 
 its several removals have caused it to be dubbed El Cahallito 
 de Troy a (Troy). 
 
 At the request of Miguel de la Grua Talamanca, a royal 
 order granting permission to make and erect the statue was 
 issued Nov. 30, 1795. This Viceroy (the 52d), who was 
 shrewd enough to gain royal favor by the suggestion, was also 
 sufficiently astute to have the cost of the work defrayed by 
 individuals and the municipality. While the work of casting 
 the statue was under way, a gilded wooden model was placed 
 on the pedestal prepared for the original. As soon as it was 
 finished the bronze horse was erected in the centre of the 
 Plaza de la Constitucion, where it was unveiled Dec. 9, 1803, 
 and where it remained until 1822. During the War for Inde- 
 pendence the feeling against Spain and things Spanish was 
 intense, and to preserve the monument from destruction, it 
 was enclosed in a huge wooden globe, painted blue, to hide 
 it from patriotic eyes. This precaution proved insufficient* 
 and the statue was removed to a small corner of the cloister 
 of the University, where it remained, half-forgotten, until 1852* 
 
374 Route 1$. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Columfais Statue. 
 
 In April of that year it was decided to move it to its present 
 commanding position — on the site of a fine fountain erected 
 to the memory of the first Mexican President, Guadalupe 
 Victoria, and called La Fuente Victoria. The fountain was 
 demolished, the pedestal erected, and the statue was placed 
 on greased wooden skids and started (midnight of Sept. 11) 
 on its journey from the University. It was planned to have 
 it in position by dawn, and thus surprise the populace; but 
 instead, fifteen days and hundreds of men and boys and many 
 horses were required to move the heavy monarch to his final 
 resting-place. On its way thither it was left standing for 
 several days in the Plaza del Volador , facing a bronze statue 
 of the Dictator Santa Anna , — a statue which at that time 
 occupied the summit of a tall Doric column in the centre of 
 the plaza , — where to the intense amusement of the populace 
 these two worthies — the grim, lantern-jawed, hook-nosed 
 Bourbon King of Spain, and the bombastic and pyrotechnic 
 Santa Anna — glared at each other. 
 
 The height of the statue is 15 ft. 9 inches; the combined 
 weight of the horse and rider, which were cast in one piece, 
 is nearly 30 tons. The fusing of the huge mass of metal occu- 
 pied two entire days, and it is a noteworthy fact that the 
 immense casting (the work of a Spanish artisan, Salvador de 
 la Vega) came from the crude mould intact. 
 
 The inscription on the east side of the base says: 
 
 “The Viceroy Don Miguel de la Grua Talamanca, Marquis 
 of Brancefort, governed New Spain from 1794 to 1798, and 
 caused to be made this statue of Carlos IV of Bourbon, King 
 of Spain and the Indies. It was erected in the Plaza Mayor 
 of Mexico Dec. 9, 1803, on the birthdaj^ of the Queen Maria 
 Luisa, in the reign of the Viceroy Don Jose de Iturrigaray. 
 Mexico preserves it as a monument of art.” Note the signi- 
 ficance of the last Sentence. 
 
 The inscription on the west side says: 
 
 “This statue was fused and moulded in Mexico Aug. 4, 
 1802, in a single operation. The weight of the metal was 400 
 quintals. It was the work (refers to the design) of Don 
 Manuel Tolsa, Director of Sculpture in the Academy (of San 
 Carlos), and 14 months were required to chisel and polish it. 
 Don Mariano Arista was President of the Republic ; and Don 
 Miguel Lerdo de Teiada, President of the City Council, or- 
 dered it placed (in 1852) on this spot.” 
 
 The imposing Statue to Christopher Columbus ( Cristobal 
 Colon), in the first glorieta of the Paseo (PI. E, 4), was a gift 
 to the city by Senor Antonio Escandon , and was unveiled 
 in Aug. 1877. The monument (the work of the French sculp- 
 tor, Charles Cordier) stands on an octagonal gray granite 
 plinth adorned with marquetry work in black stone, reached 
 by four flights of stone steps, and flanked by 8 graceful iron 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 42 . Route. 375 
 
 posts, each upholding a cluster of 5 lamps. An iron railing 
 encloses the plinth. The well-kept little garden, with par- 
 terres of flowers, is encircled by 40 volcanic stone pillars and 
 a heavy iron chain. Visitors are supposed to view the statue 
 from a point outside the enclosure. They are cautioned 
 against the small open wells near the pillars, which furnish 
 water, and which are pitfalls for the unwary. Rising from the 
 centre of the zocle is a quadrangular shaft of red granite 
 supporting four seated figures, (all of heroic size), and the 
 central statue. In front (to the r.) is Padre Juan Perez de 
 Marchena, Prior of the Convent of Santa Maria la Rabida, 1 
 |; protege of Columbus on his expedition to the New World; 
 to the 1. is Fray Diego Dehesa , Confessor of King Ferdinand, 
 
 I and to whose support Columbus owed some of the royal favor; 
 
 on the W. side, to the r., is Fray Pedro de Gante, and to the 1. 
 p Fray Bartolome de las Casas, known as the Defender of the 
 Indians (compare the fine painting in the San Carlos Acad- 
 I emy). The figure of the Great Navigator is strikingly attract- 
 ive. He stands facing the east, uncovering, with his left hand, 
 the New World discovered by him. With his right hand he 
 gives thanks to Heaven for his success. 
 
 On the E. face of the pedestal are the coat-of-arms of 
 I Columbus, with the lion and the castle; emblematic of the 
 » fact that 
 
 “Para Castilla y Leon nuevo mundo descubrio Colon.” 
 
 In a scroll surrounded by bronze strips are the words “A 
 Cristobal Colon , Mayo , 1877.” The inscription below says that 
 ■ the monument was inaugurated Aug., 1877, during the Presi- 
 I dency of General Don Porfirio Diaz, with citizen Don Vicente 
 Riva Palacio as Minister of Public Works. 
 
 In the rear (W.) is a graceful medallion containing a frag- 
 ment of a letter written by Columbus to Raphadi Saurez. 
 Below is the Latin inscription : 
 
 Christophoro Columbo , Hoc ceternce admirationis . Testi- 
 monium erigi urbique Mexicance offerri voluit. Artonius 
 Escandon anno MDCCCLXXV . 
 
 The allegory in bronze (by Cordier) on the S. side depicts the 
 rebuilding of the Monastery of Santa Maria la Rabida; that 
 1 on the N. represents the island of San Salvador, the first land 
 j sighted by Columbus in the New World. 
 
 1 In this convent, in 1484, Columbus, craving charity with his little 
 boy, was received by the prior, Juan Perez de Marchena. This monk 
 alone (says Richard Ford), when the wisest kings and councils had re- 
 jected as visionary the scheme of the discovery of the New \\ orld, had 
 the wit to see its probability, the courage to advocate the plan, and the 
 power to prepare the experiment. He must, indeed, share in the glory 
 of the discovery of America, for by his influence alone with Isabel was 
 his protege Columbus enabled to sail on this expedition. Here also Cortes 
 found shelter on his return from Mexico. In 1846 this convent was or- 
 dered to be preserved as a national memorial. 
 
376 Route J>2. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Cuauhtemoc. 
 
 The glorieta in which the monument stands is flanked 
 by the Cafe de Colon, a small kiosk where a military band 
 plays at frequent intervals, and a number of attractive resi- 
 dences. Eight Greek vases adorn the entrances to the circle. 
 
 The Statue to Cristobal Colon, facing the Plazuela de Buena Vista 
 (PI. E, 3), was erected Oct. 12, 1892, to celebrate the fourth centenary 
 of the discovery of America. 
 
 The Bronze Statue of Quauhtemotzin (often called Cuauhte- 
 moc , and pronounced quah-oo-Za?/-moc), last Prince of the 
 Aztecs, stands in the 2d glorieta of the Paseo de la Reforma 
 (PI. D, 4), and is one of the finest and most impressive monu- 
 ments on the continent. The work is that of the native 
 sculptor Don Miguel Noreha , and is after a design by the 
 Mexican artist Sehor Francisco Jimenez. The corner-stone 
 was laid May 5, 1878, and the completed monument was 
 unveiled Aug. 21, 1887. Its total cost was 137,800. Twenty- 
 five thousand pounds of bronze were used in the work, 5,000 
 lbs. of which went into the central figure — which is 16§ ft. 
 high. The total height from the ground to the topmost point 
 of the warrior’s penache, or plume, is 66§ ft. The stone, known 
 as arenisca , — a kind of basalt, — is from the Loreto quarries 
 near Puebla. The dominating architecture is Aztecan, albeit 
 the whole is a happy blend of various Indian orders. The 
 designs around the edge of the plinth, as well as those which 
 ornament the upper edge of the base, or zocle, are copied from 
 the Zapotec ruins of Mitla in the State of Oaxaca. The bizarre 
 columns of the second story, and their ornamentation, are 
 from the Toltec ruins at Tula. They were selected because 
 of their somewhat unique structure, and because they are 
 unlike the usual Toltec architecture. The various enrich- 
 ments which run quite around the monument above these 
 groups of columns are modelled after the strange and beauti- 
 ful ornamentations on the ruins of Uxmal in Yucatan, and 
 Palenque in Chiapas. The serpentine design of the 3d story 
 is Aztec. The attractive bronze panoplies, amulets, trophies 
 and costumes in the recesses are replicas of those worn and 
 carried by the Indian tribes who occupied the Vale of Anahuac 
 at the time of the Spanish invasion. 
 
 The plinth is reached by four short flights of steps each 
 guarded by two bronze leopards (each 6J ft. long), eight in 
 all, whose combined weight is 6,000 lbs. The massive bronze 
 tablets (each 16§ ft. long) in low relief are the work of Miguel 
 Noreha, and they depict, in a spirited manner, certain salient 
 episodes of the Conquest. The votive tablets let into the front 
 and rear of the monument base are by Gabriel Guerra. The 
 inscription on the front base commemorates “The memory 
 of Cuauhtemoc and those warriors who fought heroically in 
 the defence of their country, MDXXI. ,, The inscription at 
 the rear says “ Porfirio Diaz, President of the Republic, and Vi- 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 Route. 377 
 
 cente Riva Palado, Secretary of Public Works, ordered the 
 erection of this monument, MDCCCLXXVII.” The inscrip- 
 tion below advises that “the monument was erected by order 
 of Manuel Gonzalez , President of the Republic, and the Secre- 
 tary of Public Works, Carlos Pachecho , MDCCCLXXXII. ,, 
 
 The names in bronze on the base of the superstructure are 
 of Cuitlahuac, Cacama , Tetlepanquetzal (cacique of Tacuba) 
 and Coanacoch, all heroic warriors who fought in the unequal 
 struggle with the Conquistadores. The tablet showing Cuauh- 
 temoc being tortured by the order of Cortes, to force him to 
 reveal the hiding-place of Montezuma’s treasure, is admirable 
 and realistic. An Aztec lord, and companion of the Prince, 
 stands by, clad in a tiger skin; his clenched hands and the 
 tense expression of his face show the agony he endures at hav- 
 ing to be an inactive witness to the torture and suffering of his 
 sovereign. 
 
 As Cuauhtemotzin declared repeatedly that he had no revelation to 
 make, the Spanish soldiers became angry and demanded that he be 
 turned over to them. Cortes therefore delivered him into the hands of his 
 soldiery to work their pleasure on him. But the hero who had braved 
 death in many other forms was not to be intimidate’d by bodily suffering. 
 He bore the infernal pain of the fire with admirable fortitude. When 
 Tetlepanquetzal testified his own anguish by groans, and begged his Prince 
 to reveal the location of the gold, Cuauhtemotzin rebuked him coldly 
 saying: $ Estoy yo acaso en algun deleite 6 bano f — Ami taking my 
 pleasure in my bath? This dictum is proverbial in Mexico, and is em- 
 ployed when one has his own troubles, yet is asked to bear those of 
 others. 
 
 All that could be wrung from the stout-hearted warrior by his suffer- 
 ings was the admission that much gold had been thrown into the water. 
 The best divers were employed and Cortes superintended the work, but 
 only a few articles of inconsiderable value were drawn out. In searching a 
 pond in the Prince’s garden a sun, or Aztec calendar wheel, made of pure 
 gold, and of great thickness, was found. Prescott says: “Among all the 
 names of barbarian princes, there are few entitled to a higher place on 
 the roll of fame than that of Cuauhtemotzin .” 
 
 One of the tablets represents Cuauhtemoc in prison after the 
 downfall of Tenochtitlan. When brought before Cortes the 
 latter was on the azotea , or roof of a house in the Amaxac 
 suburb. Cortes received the royal prisoner with demonstra- 
 tions of friendship, but Cuauhtemoc , advancing toward him, 
 reached for the Spaniard’s dagger, saying: “ Malinche, 
 I have done all that I could to defend my city and my people ; 
 I can do no more. I stand before you a prisoner, do with me 
 as you will, but first take this poignard and kill me with it. ” 
 The interpreter Marina is a prominent figure in the group. 
 
 “ Cuauhtemoc remained in prison from Aug. 13, 1521, until he was 
 forced to accompany Cortes on his expedition to Honduras in 1524. The 
 Aztecs made repeated efforts to rescue him, and because of this, the soul- 
 less Conqueror determined to rid himself of the troublesome prisoner. 
 On reaching the pueblo of Teotitlac, State of Oaxaca, one of the Indian 
 converts in the train informed the general that a conspiracy had been 
 set on foot by Cuauhtemotzin and the Cacique of Tacuba to massacre the 
 Spaniards. No sooner did Cortds learn the particulars of this formidable 
 
378 Route J>2. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 plot than he caused the Prince and all the Aztec lords in his party to be 
 brought before him. The latter admitted the fact of the conspiracy, but 
 alleged that it had been planned by Cuauhtemotzin, and that they had 
 refused to come into it. The Prince and the Tacuban Cacique maintained 
 a dogged silence, neither admitting nor denying the accusation. Such is 
 the statement of Cortes; but Bernal Diaz, who was present, attests that 
 Cuauhtemotzin and the Cacique declared their innocence. They admitted 
 that a project for rising on the Spaniards had been discussed, but the 
 Prince had discouraged it from the first, and no scheme of the kind could 
 have been put into execution without his knowledge and consent. These 
 protestations did not avail the unfortunate men, and Cortes, having 
 satisfied, or affected to satisfy himself of their guilt, ordered them to 
 immediate execution. 
 
 “ When brought to the fatal tree, Cuauhtemotzin displayed the intrepid 
 spirit worthy of his better days. ‘I knew what it was,’ said he, ‘to trust 
 to your false promises, Malinche ; I knew that you had destined me to this 
 fate, since I did not fall by my own hand when you entered my city of 
 Tenochtitian. Why do you slay me so unjustly! God will demand it of 
 you ! ’ Tetlepanquetzal, protesting his innocence, declared that he desired 
 no better lot than to die by the side of his lord. The unfortunate princes, 
 with one or more inferior nobles, were then executed by being hanged 
 (Feb. 28, 1524) from the huge branches of a ceiba tree which overshad- 
 owed the road.” 
 
 The Aztec name, Cuauhtemotzin , rendered into Spanish, is 
 “The Eagle which descended,” Aguila que descendid. The 
 Prince’s crest was that of an eagle descending to touch a 
 human foot with his beak. This symbol is illustrated on the 
 pedestal (E. face) just below the feet of Cuauhtemoc . The 
 statue is inspiring. The attitude of the heroic Aztec, as he 
 stands with spear poised ready to hurl it defiantly at the 
 terrifying enemy, is symbolic of the unquestioned courage of 
 his race. The plumed penache, or feather head-dress, denotes 
 his rank. The light manta (mantle) which falls from his shoul- 
 ders was replaced, on state occasions, by a surcoat of the 
 gorgeous feather- work, in which the Aztecs excelled. His breast 
 is covered with a quilted cotton cuirass, — a garment so light 
 and so serviceable that it was adopted by the Spaniards. 
 The pose of the sandal-shod figure is one of stress, courage 
 and determination. 
 
 Aug. 21, of each year — the anniversary of the torture of 
 the Prince — a curious festival is held at the base of the monu- 
 ment. Aztec costumes are worn by the participants, Indian 
 dances are performed, and the descendants of the great Prince 
 recall, in the Aztec language, the chief episodes of his life. 
 
 El Monumento a la Independence Nacional, in the 4th glorieta of the 
 Paseo de la Reforma (PI. G, 5), the work of the architect Antonio Rivas , 
 Mercado, was begun in 1901 and completed in 1910 at a total cost of $2,154,- 
 000. The foundation, a complicated network of steel, re-enforced con- 
 crete and wood piles (65 miles in length), cost $537,000. The 4 obelisks at 
 the corners of the plinth are of Baveno granite. The height of the column 
 from base to capital is 78 ft.: the capital measures 12 ft., and the total 
 height of the monument, from the base to the tip of the wings of the crown- 
 ing figure, is 150 ft. The marble and granite are Italian and cost $15,000. 
 The four seated bronze figures of the socle represent Paz (peace), La Ley 
 (law) , Justicia (justice) and Guerra (war) : each weighs 3.000 kilos, and, with 
 the lion group (which weighs 5,500 kilos) were cast (by wax process) in 
 Florence ( Galli Brothers) and cost $107,000. Some 20 ft. above the socle is a 
 
Chapultepec, 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route. 379 
 
 marble group, the apotheosis of Independence. The central figure is Miguel 
 Hidalgo y Costilla, fugleman of liberty; that at the r. represents Mexico 
 offering him the laurel wreath; that at the 1. symbolizes history recording 
 his heroic deeds and sacrifices. 
 
 At Hidalgo's r. is a marble figure of Morelos ; Guerrero stands at his 1. (N.) ; 
 those facing W. are Mina and Nicolas Bravo. The statues (all Carrara 
 marble) are approx. 11 ft. high and weigh 3,000 kilos each. They are the 
 work of Enrique Alciati, Prof, of Sculpture in the Academia Nacional de San 
 Carlos. The main group cost $51,500; the four statues $50,000. Four 
 shields, the names of 24 insurgents, and a wealth of bas-reliefs and war para- 
 phernalia adorn the monumento. The gilded and winged figure (bronze, 22 f t. 
 high; weight 7,000 kilos) of Victory, which surmounts the shaft, holds in the 
 r. hand a laurel wreath, and in the 1. a fragment of a chain emblematic of the 
 bondage which during three centuries was the fate of the beloved country. 
 The figure is beautiful and inspiring; particularly at dawn, when it resem- 
 bles a golden angel flying to greet the rising sun. In the vestibule is a statue 
 of Guillen de Lam-part, one of the precursors of Independence. The 158 steps 
 of the caracol stair which leads up through the shaft terminate at the top, 
 whence a splendid panorama is visible. The face of the young woman in 
 the medallion on the door represents the Young Republic of Mexico. The 
 history of the monument is chiseled upon a tablet at the rear near the base. 
 
 The style of the structure is a felicitous blend of modern and classic archi- 
 tecture. The seated figures symbolize the fact that Independence, having 
 been gained by force of arms, is now guaranteed by peace, under the 
 dominion of law and justice. The lion, emblem of majesty and strength, 
 when wreathed in laurel and guided by genius in the form of a little child, 
 portrays the Mexican people, who, although covered with glory, are none 
 the less submissive and docile to the call of honor and duty. 
 
 Chapultepec (Aztec ,chapuiin = grasshopper, tepetl = hill), 
 or Grasshopper Hill (so called from the number of insects 
 of the genus Gryllus which once infested the spot), is a por- 
 phyritic pile whose summit is 196 ft. above the Valley, at the 
 W. end of the Paseo de la Reforma (comp, plan of Mex. City, 
 PI. B, 6, also the plan of the castle ground, p. 380), about 3 M. 
 from the Plaza Mayor. It was once an island in the salt Lake 
 of Texcoco. The hill is irregular in shape, with a gradual slope 
 to the S., and with abrupt, craggy declivities on the N.-W. 
 and E. Its one-time forbidding sides are now almost smothere> l 
 in blooming flowers, and terraces are being added from time 
 to time. During the Aztec dominion the hill was a sort of fort- 
 ress, with a pagan temple oh the summit, and the immediate 
 environs constituted a pleasure resort. When Tenochtitlan 
 became an important city, Montezuma II converted the fort- 
 ress into a summer residence, and here he established his 
 harem, baths, gardens, aviary, fish-ponds and hunting-lodge. 
 It is now the most beautiful spot in the suburbs of the capital, 
 and is justly regarded as the finest artificial park in the Re- 
 public. The splendid roads and the magnificent trees are 
 a sustained delight to lovers of woodland scenery. Some of 
 the little waterways, miniature islands and rustic bridges are 
 very picturesque. There is a lack of snakes and noxious in- 
 sects in the park. 
 
 Visitors seldom extend their excursions to the battle-field 
 of Molino del Rey, in the rear of the castle grounds, since 
 the spot is interesting only for its historic associations. The 
 government cartridge factory is also in the rear of the park. 
 

 380 Route J^2. MEXICO CITY Ckaputiepec. 1 
 
 The tram-line which skirts the S. side leads to Dolores Ceme- 
 tery (p.238). The early morning is the best time to visit the j 
 parque; then all is fresh and attractive, and a saunter through 
 the almost deserted grounds is thoroughly delightful. Guide j 
 unnecessary. There is a lamentable dearth of free seats to 
 be had; the spindle-legged chairs sitting in rows at various ! 
 points (usually far from any beauty spot) are rented by the 
 park custodians (who see to it that the visitor does not sit 
 on the grass) at 5 c. the h hour. Mounted guards constantly 
 patrol the avenues, and visitors are cautioned against any 
 infraction of the rules relating to the picking of flowers, etc. 
 
 The tranvias which leave the Plaza Mayor at frequent intervals for 
 Chapultepec, Tacubaya , Mixcoac and San Angel , and which traverse the 
 Ave. 16 de Septiembre and the Ave. dela Independencia, thence across the 
 upper end of the Colonia Juarez and out through the Avenida de Cha- 
 pultepec (flanking the Colonia J. on the S.) pass the park gates and stop at 
 the entrance. Time about 15 min. The castle and grounds are outside 
 the city limits, and when employing a taxi an agreement, as to what the 
 charge will be, should be reached with the choftr before starting. Usu- 
 ally he will want double fare. Visitors who wish to see the castle and park 
 with the least possible expenditure of time will perhaps find taxis the 
 most desirable. Several dollars can be saved, however, and the splendid 
 forest seen to greater advantage if one will take more time and walk to 
 and through it. One entire morning can be spent in the grounds to 
 advantage. Walkers will find an early morning stroll out to the Paseo de la 
 Reforma thoroughly delightful and invigorating. From March to Sept, 
 the park gates are opened at 5 a. m. and closed at 7 p. m. From Oct. to 
 Feb. 5.30 a. m. and 7 p. m. The park regulations limit the speed of auto- 
 mobiles : autoists will do well to heed the Despacio (slow) signs placed 
 at intervals along the roads. Dogs are forbidden entrance. The prudent 
 visitor will not touch the flowers. 
 
 Permits to visit the Castillo can be obtained (free) upon application to 
 one’s Consul or to the Intendente del Palacio , in the Intendencia at the 
 National Palace. Permission to enter the castle during the summer « May- 
 Sept.) months, when the president and his family are in residence there, 
 is rarely granted. A simple admission card does not always imply that 
 the visitor is accorded the privilege of seeing all the salons. If this is de- 
 sired a special permit should be asked for. Visitors without permits are 
 allowed to go as far as the gate of the upper terrace, at the crest of the 
 hill, anti to enter the Colegio Militar ‘(fine views from the roof), — a 
 long, rambling structure prolonging the castle on the W. As there is a 
 dearth of pictures and art objects on view in the castle, one can usually 
 spend the time to better advantage enjoying the wonderful panorama 
 visible from the terraces and corridors. 
 
 The huge war-picture (painted by Francisco de P. Mendoza in 1905) 
 on the stair-landing of the Colegio M ilitar represents the entry of General 
 Por,\rio Diaz into Puebla on April 2. 1867. The generals accompanying 
 him were Juan C. Bonilla, Comandante Carlos Pachecho, Ignacio a la 
 Torre, and Francisco Carreon. 
 
 The Park ( Parque ) is most frequented in the morning be- 
 tween 10 and 12 o’clock, and between 3 and 6 in the afternoon. 
 Vehicles usually enter the gate at the end of the Paseo de la 
 Reforma , bear round to the r., follow theorem Avenida to its W. j 
 intersection with the Calzada del Rey, and return to the en- 
 trance along that Ave. In the early morning the pedestrian 
 usually has the park to himself. 
 
 At this time the enchanting beauty and freshness of the 
 
3 Q O H A ,J 
 
PLANO DEL 
 
 BOSQUE ©E 6KAPVLTBPB6 
 
 1 : 12,000 
 
 0 oCu) 1000 1500 Engl. Ft. 
 
 0 100 200 300 400 Metros 
 
 Made specially for Terry's Mexico 
 Copyrighted (Es propiedad) 
 
 I'll apultepec 
 

Chapultepec. MEXICO CITY J^2. Route. 381 
 
 place is alluring. A few horsemen may be seen in the park 
 soon after sunrise, but the steady stream of automobiles, etc. 
 does not begin to arrive until the morning is half gone. At 
 noon, and particularly on Sundays and holidays, the roads 
 are thronged. Many fine charro costumes characterize these 
 festive parades, some of them costly, and most of them bril- 
 liantly effective. 
 
 The Cafe Chapultepec , just within the entrance to the main 
 park, at the right, is often crowded from noon to twilight on 
 Sundays. Music. Meals a la carta. 
 
 Facing the entrance from the Paseo, and at the right 
 of the lateral, tram-car terminus, is a music kiosk. To the 
 r. of this is the Calzada del Castillo , which we follow to reach 
 the castle entrance. To the 1. of this calzada , in the rear of 
 the kiosko, is the duck-pond, and overlooking it the Monu- 
 ment to the Memory of the Cadets who fell during the 
 American war. The inscription on the E. side advises that 
 “this shaft was erected (1880-81) by the Military College 
 Association, to military honor, under the auspices of Presi- 
 dents Porfirio Diaz and Manuel Gonzalez/’ On the N. and S. 
 sides are the names of some of the dead heroes. The inscrip- 
 tion on the W. face, below the date Sept. 13, 1847, says “ this 
 monument stands to the memory of the cadets of the mili- 
 tary college who died like heroes during the North American 
 invasion.’’ The President deposits floral tributes on the shaft 
 on each anniversary of the battle. 
 
 In the small glorieta facing the monument, on the imitation 
 tree-trunks ranged round the interior, are the names of the 
 students above referred to. 
 
 “After the battle of Molino del Rey, which takes rank as perhaps the 
 most strongly contested of any during the war (and, proportionately, 
 the bloodiest; for out of the American force of barely 3,500 men, the 
 casualties numbered 787, among which were 116 killed), the invaders 
 turned their attention to Chapultepec, which was strongly fortified and 
 supplied with several batteries and ample ammunition. 
 
 “ The American General Pillow takes possession of the unoccupied mill 
 at dawn on the 12th (Sept., 1847) under an ineffectual fusillade from the 
 grove, and at the same time the southern batteries open fire. Blazing 
 fuse and balls whirl fast and furious against the castle, crushing through 
 the walls, and scattering dust and debris upon the defenders. The monu- 
 mental frame begins to gape in ruins, and even the girdling parapet is 
 torn bv noisy shells. But like a lion at bay, it rises in defiance and 
 roars in prompt reply, a counterpart to the song of battle. It is a 
 music of the spheres; but death wields the baton beneath a lurid canopy, 
 wherein Valkyries chant the dread refrain while watching for their prey. 
 
 “The aim of the assailing batteries is becoming fearfully precise for the 
 garrison pent up above within the narrow space, the artillerists suffering 
 so severely that toward noon several of the cannon are silenced. But 
 the din and crash do not diminish, for Pillow seizes the opportunity to 
 place the battery just south of the mill, so far held in check by the summit 
 fire; and now the bombardment grows fiercer still, throughout the after- 
 noon, till darkness interferes. 
 
 “ Despite the damage inflicted, the enemy had gained little by his day’s 
 work, save in keeping the adversary in doubt as to his real intent. Santa 
 Anna therefore remained inactive, unwilling to hazard a field movement 
 
382 Route J^2. MEXICO CITY Chapultepec. 
 
 with the reserve. Later in the day he visited the castle and made some 
 dispositions, swelling the force in the grove to 500 men. Night brings a 
 cessation of hostilities, but no repose. The noise of preparations for the 
 portentous morrow resounds on both sides, and the soldiers rest on their 
 arms watching for the dawn. Scott had issued orders for an assault both 
 by Pillow and Quitman, led by two picked storming parties of 250 men 
 each, while Worth advances in close support, and Twiggs throw T s out 
 Smith’s brigade to his left to check reenforcements from the city. Early 
 on the 13th the batteries burst forth anew in a lively cannonade along 
 the south front of the capital as well as against the castle. Meanwhile the 
 infantry moves into position for the fray. 
 
 “ Suddenly at 8 a. m. the roar of artillery ceases, and a significant si- 
 lence intervenes, the prelude to another struggle. A voltigeur regiment is 
 seen to rush from the crumbling precincts of the mill and flit along the 
 southern wall. Its goal is a redan in a breach of the wall at the southern 
 end of the intrenchments that fringe the western slope of the grove. So 
 quick is the advance that ere a second volley can be delivered the volti- 
 geurs are springing over ditches and parapets, and falling in the rear of the 
 intrenched line, whose defenders are occupied by a simultaneous front 
 attack by the fellow-regiment. Thus surprised, there is no alternative 
 save to fall back among the sheltering trees, where they hold forth awhile 
 against the ever-growing numbers brought up by Pillow. General Perez 
 falls in covering the retreat, but Xicotencatl, worthy descendant of the 
 famed Tlascaltec chieftain, rallies this overwhelmed band to fresh efforts 
 till he also succumbs; and then they break at the fclbt of the hill. Now 
 the hill batteries direct their fire into the very grove, and shot and shell 
 come crashing through the branches, scattering splinters in all directions, 
 and shaking the heavy moss that hangs like stalactites, or even felling 
 some ancient ahuehuete that for centuries had mutely preached the 
 nothingness of man. 
 
 “ The fire from the hill is becoming unendurable and, as the storming 
 party is still delayed. Pillow orders the front line to take its place. A few 
 rounds of canister and a fusillade to clear the way, and up charge the 
 voltigeurs, seeking what shelter they can from boulders and projections 
 against the galling rain of bullets. Several officers fall: Pillow himself is 
 wounded; and maddened by the loss, the men rush blindly on, changing 
 the cry of * Forward ’ into a wild yell of * Vengeance! ’ Ah! the beastliness 
 of war! Good men killing good men : patriots hewing down patriots as if 
 each regarded the other as poisonous reptiles, when indeed there is no 
 personal issue between them. Fools all — they and their masters — 
 blinder than bats, more senseless than donkeys, thus to feel obliged to 
 butcher each other awhile, before settling down to an adjustment of 
 differences on some plan within the domain of reason! But what have 
 wire-pulling politicians to do with right or reason? What care office- 
 seekers, men who spend their lives in their efforts to supplant others and 
 gain for themselves a better place — w'hat do they care who and how 
 many are killed or mangled and buried in the ditches? 
 
 “ Numbers and impetus prevail; the redan is carried, and so closely are 
 the defenders pursued that the officer charged to fire the saucissons of 
 the mines, just beyond, waits for a moment. That moment saves the 
 pursuers. He is disabled; the saucissons are destroyed, and the rush 
 continues to the crest of the hill. Here the enemy have to pause, however, 
 at the foot of the parapet, from which grape and bullets now pour upon 
 them, tearing wide gaps in their ranks. 
 
 “ While waiting for ladders, they crouch back behind rocks and into 
 hollows which have been neglected by the engineers, and thence begin to 
 pick off artillerists and sharp-shooters with a precision so terrible as soon 
 to silence the artillery and force the evacuation of the bastion at the 
 knee of the front ascent. By this time Cadwalader, who has replaced the 
 wounded General Pillow, brings up the ladders and fascines; and now 
 there is a rush across the ditch to plant the ladders. The musketry fire 
 redoubles, and down come the first climbers, dead and disabled, and so 
 the next daring stormers; but assailants cluster thick and eager at the 
 foot to take the vacant places, and finally they gain a foothold on the 
 parapet. 
 
Chapultepec. MEXICO CITY J^2. Route. 383 
 
 “ A resistless number follows across the vacated priest-cap and into the 
 precincts of the yard, joined by another party, whose ascent along the 
 south side had been facilitated by a top fire upon its bastion. Light 
 howitzers and captured guns are turned upon the castle and the raised 
 terrace along the eastern verge, mingling their thunder with the sharp 
 ring of rifles, driving the defenders from the windows and roofs, and forc- 
 ing them over the walls, while covering the entrance of the stormers. A 
 chance shot strikes the staff, and the castle flag bends over, but the next 
 moment it is righted again by sturdy hands, and flutters forth defiantly. 
 The assailants press closer, however, and are already in hand-to-hand 
 conflict with the citadel. The excitement of battle and the loss of com- 
 rades seem to have frenzied them, for they rage with a ferocity never be- 
 fore displayed during the war, granting little or no quarter. And few 
 ask it. The very cadets, mere boys of fourteen years and upward, fight 
 with heroic daring, and cheer their elders on as they stand at bay to seil 
 their lives dearly, banishing sombre premonitions and quailing not at 
 death. The blood of stripling and graybeard mingle in their flow, and 
 bear the mournful tidings in the red-tinged waters of the aqueducts. 
 Finally a party gains the roof and strikes the flag; and as the banner of 
 the invaders rises, midst deafening huzzas, a change sets in. The authori- 
 tative voice of the officers prevails; the slaughter stops; the vanquished 
 yield. Bravo surrenders, together with four generals and 100 other officers, 
 the total number of prisoners on and round the hill being placed at 800.” 
 (Bancroft’s History of Mexico , vol. v, pp. 509 et seq.) 
 
 When the first Aztecs entered the Valley of Mexico the W. 
 shore of Lake Texcoco was marked by the spot where the 
 monument to the cadets now stands. Later, during the time 
 of Montezuma II, when the shore of the lake had receded 
 eastward, the present duck-pond was a sizable lakelet; the 
 haunt of the ocelot, eagle, snake, turtle and other pampered 
 symbols of Aztec divinities. To the r. of this pond, in a de- 
 pression encircled by huge trees, is a cemented skating-rink, 
 free for children. The charge for the swings is 5 c. for each 
 20 min. A few yards to the S.-W. of the monument is a walled- 
 in spring, — the one-time W. terminus of a great aqueduct 
 which supplied a part of the drinking water to the Aztec 
 metropolis. A half-obliterated inscription in the S. wail 
 advises that the fountain was restored in 1571 by Martin 
 Enriquez de Almanza, 4th Viceroy. 
 
 The fine aqueduct which the Spaniards destroyed while besieging the 
 city was repaired by some of the early Viceroys and was converted into a 
 ‘‘magnificent acueducto of 904 gigantic arches.” An inscription at the 
 sometime city terminus of this aqueduct, El Salto de Agua (waterfall or 
 fountain), near Belem Prison, records that 904 arches supported this 
 vast waterway between the fountain and the salto, that it was 4,660 
 varas (yards) long, and that it was begun (referring to the renovation and 
 amplification) in 1677, and completed in 1779. One of the early chroni- 
 clers writes: ‘‘Sweet water is brought to Mexico from a place called Cha- 
 pultepec, three miles distant from that city, which springeth out of a little 
 nill, at the foot whereof stood formerly two statues or images, wrought in 
 stone, with their targets and launces, the one of Montezuma, the other of 
 Axaiaca his father. The water is brought from thence to this day in two 
 pipes built upon arches of brick and stone.” A few years ago the aque- 
 duct was condemned as useless, and the greater part was demolished. By 
 order (in 1877) of the Government, 25 arches were preserved (on which 
 commemorative tablets are to be placed) along with a quaint fountain, a 
 short distance E. of the (S.) castle gate. The water which flowed over 
 this long aqueduct was called agua delgada (thin water) tp differentiate 
 
384 Route 1$. MEXICO CITY ChapuUepec. 
 
 it from another source which provided agua gruesa (thick water) . His- 
 tory has it that the original aqueduct was built by Prince Chimalpopoca 
 in 1417. Before the water was diverted from its source this spring was 
 a rushing, sounding stream that poured thousands of gallons of water 
 daily into the Aztec city. The Spaniards believed that Montezuma had 
 a secret treasure-house near by, and every nook and cranny of the region 
 has been dug over and searched. Tradition avers that on one occasion, 
 in order to placate the anger of Tlaloc, God of Water, at the time of a 
 long drought, a great number of jewels, including emeralds, turquoises, 
 gold and whatnot, were thrown into the spring. This belief was strength- 
 ened in the minds of the credulous Spaniards because the walls round- 
 about were formerly covered with Aztec picture-writing, and petroglyphs. 
 Hereabout were buried many nobles and caciques, and until quite recently 
 carved stone fragments marked their graves. At the close of the 18th 
 cent, the epitaphs of Montezuma, Axayacatl and Ahuizotl were still pre- 
 served here. During the construction of the castle, the hillsides were 
 drilled and blasted, and many carved hieroglyphs, ideographs and figures 
 of warriors were destroyed. In 1784 the Spaniards maintained a powder- 
 mill hereabout, which was later wrecked by an explosion. The spring half- 
 way up the S.-E. side of the hill supplies some of the water drunk in the 
 city. 
 
 At the S.-E. base of the hill is the Tribunal (see the Park 
 plan) in the austere Greek style, where civic honors are an- 
 nually bestowed upon pupils of the Military College, and where 
 memorial services are held to commemorate the anniversary 
 of the cadets who died in defence of the castle during the 
 American invasion. On such occasions an immense crimson 
 curtain is stretched above the tribunal, a wealth of flowers 
 and garlands of leaves are hung roundabout, and the struc- 
 ture is decorated with war panoply, — cannons surrounded by 
 projectiles, swords, stacked-arms and whatnot. Directly 
 facing the tribunal is the 
 
 Arbol de Montezuma, the largest tree in the park. It is 
 45 ft. in circumference, about 200 ft. high, and of great anti- 
 quity. With the old Arbol de la Noche Triste (described at 
 p. 418) and the Great Tree of Tule (in Oaxaca), it forms one of 
 a trinity of giants which are perhaps the only living witnesses 
 of the Montezuma era and that of the Conquest. The view 
 down across the park toward the S.-E., to a splendid group 
 of great trees forming a little circle, is very pretty. Behind 
 the stone railing facing the tribunal is a fish-pond with some 
 tiny gold fish and some large carp. A short walk to the S. of 
 this spot brings us to a w'alled-in place known as 
 
 Montezuma’s Bath, surrounded by a beautifully kept 
 flower plot. Many tiny jets of w r ater bubble up from the bot- 
 tom of the spring. Hard by is the pumping station w'hich 
 draws w r ater from this spring and forces it into the city pipes. 
 
 The Forest ( bosque ) of Chapultepec, at the W. and S. 
 sides of the hill ( cerro ), is a beautiful lake-dotted woodland 
 intersected by shaded w T alks, handsome and splendidly kept 
 drives, running streams and parterres of perennially blooming 
 flowers. It is being constantly enlarged; new r avenues and 
 ponds are added every now' and then, and young trees are set 
 out. In point of size and general attractiveness it compares 
 
Chapultepec . 
 
 MEXICO CITY 4£. Route. 385 
 
 not unfavorably with the Bois de Boulogne, Hyde Park and 
 similar European resorts: it was formerly a chosen duelling- 
 ground and it is still the predilection of love-lorn persons 
 ^th suicidal intentions. Many of the avenues i«Ozadas) have 
 attractive names: theave. known as Calzada del Rey, at the 
 S.sideofthe hill with an E. and W. trend, is perhaps the finest. 
 
 A wav to set a comprehensive idea of the park is to follow (to the 
 
 most of which traverse cue y & , q forms an inner circle 
 
 castlfrests (comp the park 
 ol' a f n? k Bv starting from the E. base of the hill and following this calzada 
 P SrSm to the 1 , we return to our starting-point after a brisk 
 walk^of°abmit terminates. The longer walk, by the Gran Ave., takes 
 about 25 min. . 
 
 tion^ with °^e ^eZI^a^ol'^vhCTe there is a fine sheet of 
 
 W Tlie statueon the topmost point of the islet 
 
 ££ Sro.^"‘ c , E : “ SfritS'w .%Jo. 
 
 of Scopas, found in the island of Samothrace, where it s oo 
 on a pedestal representing the prow of a trireme). An excellent 
 view of the castillo can be had from this vantage point. 
 
 Following the Gran Avenida westward we now half circle 
 the castiUoand get a comprehensive view of Jhe fountains 
 which guard the Valley at the west. At the right ' covering 
 miles of the elevated mesa, stretches the beautiful and ex 
 tensive Chapultepec Heights Colony, descnbed at p 390m 
 At the left, crowning the summit of a slight eminence, 
 
 Ce ElMol t !no del Rey (The King’s Mill) of historical interej 
 
 0 fiSof T MotVdel 0f Reto^ ^ ^ 
 
 °where|the' Mexicans and Amen- 
 
 ernment arms factory, and a pumping-station. Keturmria 
 
 eastward along the Calzada del Rey ^ o p e d T c l^aio) to the 
 
 entrance, whence we proceed (along *he . C . del 
 
 iron grill and the guard house at the 1 . ■ . t he jj. 
 
 eEieSS 
 
 this pergola is the elevator shaft which was formerly a cave - 
 
386 Route 2 . MEXICO CITY Chapultepec. 
 
 long believed by the Aztecs to be the sanctuary of the uneasy 
 and restless spirit of Marina, mistress and interpreter of the 
 Great Conqueror. (The Indians of to-day believe the forest 
 of Chapultepec is haunted by Marina’s spirit.) While this ele- 
 vator offers the quickest method of ascending to the castle, 
 the visitor will gain considerable by following the winding 
 road to the terrace on the S. side. The views as we go up are 
 magnificent. From this favorable situation the fine old forest 
 trees can be seen to splendid advantage. 
 
 The old Ahuehuete trees ( Taxodium distichum), of which there are 
 more than 200 in the park, are particularly noteworthy. The larger and 
 older ones are thought to be the relics of a magnificent tropical forest 
 which at one time covered the great Valley of Mexico. Until quite recently 
 these trees were all hung with festoons of gray, trailing Spanish Moss 
 ( Tillandsia asneoides) w T hich imparted a decided color tone to the en- 
 tire group and gave the forest a phantom-like appearance. This moss 
 sapped the vitality of the older and less vigorous trees to such an extent 
 that the most of it was cleared away : patches still remain here and there. 
 The boles of certain of the trees are enormous. Decay has eaten into the 
 heart of some of the patriarchs, and to preserve them clay has been in- 
 serted: to gain uniformity in appearance this clay has been adroitly 
 tinted and ribbed and made to resemble the bark, so that near inspection 
 is required to distinguish it. Scattered among the giant cypresses are 
 
 E ines (some of them immensely tall), pepper-trees, palms and a host of 
 eautiful shrubs, ferns and flowers. 
 
 The Castle ( Castillo , comp, accompanying plan) which 
 occupies the crest of the hill, and is reached by an elevator 
 which rises through a shaft cut in the solid rock, and by a 
 roadway which ascends from the N. side and winds around 
 toward the W. and S., was begun in 1783 by the Viceroy 
 (47th) Don Matias de Galvez , who obtained permission from 
 the King of Spain to erect a summer home here. The prema- 
 ture death of the Viceroy delayed the work, which was later 
 continued by his son, Bernardo de Galvez, who succeeded 
 him in the viceroyship. By 1786 the work had already cost 
 the Spanish Crown 300,000 pesos, and the King, suspicious of 
 the Viceroy’s motive, commanded the work to stop. This al- 
 leged Palacio de Verano (summer palace), in a commanding 
 position with strong military attributes, fortified with moats 
 and with salient walls and parapets toward Mexico City, and 
 containing, on its N. side, vast subterranean vaults capable of 
 holding provisions sufficient to feed an army, bore too close a 
 resemblance to a fortress masked as a pleasure house. In due 
 time the King’s suspicions were allayed, and although the 
 work was not completed, the Viceroy and the Vice-Queen (a 
 woman celebrated for her beauty and virtues; also as being 
 one of the first blondes ever seen in Mexico) dwelt in the castle 
 for a time. With the recall of Galvez in 1787, the unfinished 
 structure was permitted to fall into decay. At the begin- 
 ning of 1800 it presented a sadly dilapidated aspect, and 
 w r as little more than a wreck. Repairs were undertaken in 
 1840, and two years later a branch of the Escuela Militar was 
 
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Chapultepec. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route. 387 
 
 installed in a wing of the building. Just prior to the Amer- 
 ican War it was strongly fortified, and in 1847, when it was 
 stormed and taken by the Americans under General Pillow , the 
 students defended it heroically and with great loss. 
 
 In 1866 the Emperor Maximilian conceived the idea of 
 converting the castle into a Mexican Miramar, and the im- 
 perial architect, Rodriguez Arangoiti, was ordered to reno- 
 vate it and decorate it in the Tuscan style. The building 
 was fitted up luxuriously, the corridors were adorned with 
 voluptuous pictures after the style of those of a Pompeiian 
 villa, and the grounds were terraced and improved. The 
 tangled forest at the rear of the castle was cleared, handsome 
 roadways were cut through it, and the place soon became 
 the prototype of the beautiful bosque which to-day delights 
 lovers of enchanting vistas, quiet woodland walks, seques- 
 tered nooks and flower-embowered retreats. Hitherto the 
 insecurity of the suburbs and the absence of passable roads 
 had been the great objection to suburban residences, and by 
 order of the Empress Carlota the Paseo de la Reforma was 
 completed, and a line of splendid eucalyptus trees was planted 
 on each side, along its entire length. To the initiative of the 
 Empress is also due the beautiful hill-top garden, which re- 
 sembles, in its charming simplicity, the Pincian Garden at 
 Rome. Because of the vicissitudes of its construction, the 
 castle shows no distinct and sustained architectural character; 
 but, splendidly poised as it is, high above the beautiful 
 grounds and overlooking the wide Valley of Mexico, it forms 
 with its fine interior one of the most impressive “ sights” of 
 the capital. 
 
 The varied and elaborate furnishments imported by Maximilian for the 
 adornment of the castle were many. The most exquisite productions of 
 Europe were installed in this buen retiro. Numerous marble statues, 
 alabaster vases, an elaborate set of silver-plate used by the royal pair, 
 and many minor objects are now on exhibition in the National Museum. 
 Splendid ceramic curios in the shape of porcelain pieces decorated with 
 the imperial monogram are yet to be found in the antique shops of the 
 capital. 
 
 The Entrance to the terrace, on the S. side of the Colegio 
 Militar f is through huge gates ornamented with bronze 
 figures of soldiers bearing arms. For centrepieces the gates 
 have medallion portraits of certain of the cadets who per- 
 ished when the castle was stormed by the Americans. Ad- 
 mission cards are taken up by the Conserje , whose office is 
 just within the second gates. 
 
 We enter the castle through the small, square Salon del Re - 
 loj , which contains some handsome antique Spanish carved 
 chairs and a fine (modern) clock. Adjoining this room is the 
 Salon Rojo (red room). Crossing the Antesala del Bano del 
 President e, we enter the Recamara Azul, noteworthy for some 
 exquisite antique furniture, for the beautiful blue and gold 
 
3S8 Route 42 . MEXICO CITY Chapultepec. 
 
 catin brocade on the walls; for a clock which once belonged to 
 tne Emperor Maximilian, and a massive silver epergne which 
 still bears the monogram of that ill-fated monarch. The ad- 
 joining Boudoir , once the favorite room of the Empress Car- 
 lota, is now a reception room. The pink satin brocade on the 
 walls and the maple wood-work are modern. In the next 
 room (also a reception room) are a pair of fine Sevres vases 
 by Gostier, and a suite of French furniture, upholstered in 
 Gobelin tapestry, presented by the French Government. The 
 finest room on this floor is the 
 
 Comedor (dining salon), finished in beautifully carved Al- 
 satian oak, with a fine (wood) artesonado ceiling and some splen- 
 did silver epergnes once owned by Maximilian. The panels in 
 the walls are covered with Gobelin tapestries. Very inter- 
 esting wall decorations are those in El Tresillo, also known 
 as the Smoking Room (el fumadero) , where white silk figures 
 of knights and ladies, appliqued on a maroon satin ground, 
 are engaged in playing battle-door and shuttle-cock, spinning 
 tops, bowling and Tvhatnot, — representing scenes in the life 
 of Henry 111 of France. We return through the dining-room 
 to the stairway leading to the upper floor. The uncomely 
 bronze figure at the newel post is of European origin. Light 
 is admitted through the colored glass let into the roof. 
 On the ceiling around this sky-light ( tragaluz ) are 18 coats- 
 of-arms dating from 1474 to 1867, and representing the sover- 
 eigns in whose names the country was ruled during that period. 
 The eagle, with the date 1521, represents the emblem of 
 Cuauhtemoc, last prince of the Aztecs. At the top of the stairs 
 is a small landing called El Descanso de la E scaler a, and im- 
 mediately to the r. is the fine glassed-in corridor known as La 
 VitriTia. The five female figures are Ceres, Diane, Hebe, Flore 
 and Pomone ; the work is of French origin. Opening out on to 
 this corredor is the attractive 
 
 Salon de Embajadores, a dream of pink and gold in the 
 Louis XV style, with a carpet carrying views of the castle, 
 and with huge silver candelabra that once adorned the apart- 
 ments of the Empress Carlota. The huge gilt chandelier is 
 worth looking at. The president often receives distinguished 
 visitors in this room. At the S. end of La Vitrina (note the 
 view obtainable from the little square windows in the glass) 
 are a dainty bath-room and a suite of apartments reserved for 
 distinguished visitors. The porcelain clock, the Persian carpet 
 and the Empire furniture and hangings are attractive. The 
 Private Apartments (rarely shown) of the President’s wife are 
 noteworthy for the exquisite satin brocades on the walls and 
 for the Persian carpets. Descending to the floor below we 
 enter, from the S. side of the castle, the 
 
 Private Office of the President. In the room adjoin- 
 ing the waiting-room is a picture (the work of Francisco de 
 
Chapultepec. 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 42 . Route. 389 
 
 P. Mendoza in 1902) representing General Diaz receiving the 
 acclamations of his victorious troops in the Plaza at Puebla 
 on the celebrated 2d of April, 1867. On the curved scroll at 
 the foot of the painting is the Proclamation, in Spanish, of the 
 General to his troops: 
 
 “Companions in Arms! I wish to be first to pay tribute to your hero- 
 ism. The entire nation and posterity will later perpetuate your glory. 
 Ye have written another memorable date in this city where Zaragoza 
 immortalized his name on May 5th, and henceforth the 2d of April 
 will loom large on the calendar of National glories. 
 
 “I expected much of you; I have seen you answer the country’s call 
 to arms at Miahuatlan, and in La Carbonera, in Jalapa and in Oaxaca, 
 and each time you came with the guns taken from the enemy. You had 
 fought naked and hungry, turning your backs upon glory, and yet your 
 exploits in Puebla have gone beyond my expectations. 
 
 “A fortified city, with reason termed unconquerable, and which the 
 finest soldiers of the world were unable to take by assault, has yielded to 
 the first efforts of your strength. The garrison and all the immense stores 
 of war material accumulated by the enemy are the trophies of your 
 victory. 
 
 “Soldiers: The country is deeply indebted to you. This rending strug- 
 gle cannot prolong itself. You have given proofs of your irresistible 
 valor. Who would dare to measure forces with the conquerors of Puebla? 
 Independence and Republican institutions are assured: a country with 
 such soldiers can never be oppressed or conquered. 
 
 “Intrepid in combat and moderate in the use of victory, you have 
 1 captivated the admiration of this city by your boldness, and its gratitude 
 by your discipline. 
 
 “ W T hat General would not be proud to be your leader? While he can 
 count upon you, your friend, Porfirio Diaz , will consider himself invin- 
 cible.” 
 
 The painting shows the plaza bare of the fine trees which 
 i now adorn it. The corner room, where the president works, 
 contains a long, richly carved table spread with the portfolios 
 of the Minister of War, Justice, etc. The fine modern clock 
 i rings the Westminster chime on a series of 8 bells. 
 
 The tunnel elevator connects with these offices through 
 a passage leading into the ante sala. The terrace entrance to 
 this elevator is covered by a picturesque kiosk near the marble 
 stair which leads to the upper floor. At the r. and 1. of this 
 stair is an alabaster vase with Maximilian’s monogram. On the 
 E. and N. sides of the castle, the roofs of the corridors are deco- 
 rated after the style of a Pompeiian villa. In the Conserjeria 
 , there may sometimes be seen a very elaborate marquetry 
 1 secretaire of inlaid wood and mother-of-pearl. It is compara- 
 tively modern, of Mexican make. 
 
 The View from the Upper E. Terrace is indubitably the 
 finest of its kind, and one of the most beguiling in Mexico. The 
 eye embraces hundreds of square miles of the S.-W. portion 
 of the grand Valley, which here is sentinelled by the snow- 
 crowned volcanoes of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl , delimned 
 1 by the jagged monarchs of the Ajusco and the Pachuca ranges, 
 and crowned in the centre by the ancient metropolis of the 
 1 Aztec kings and Spanish viceroys. The gaze rests upon a 
 
390 Route 42. MEXICO CITY Chapultepec. 
 
 score or more clustered villages, each with its church spires 
 and domes glistening white in the yellow light. Usually the 
 Valley swoons beneath waves of sempiternal sunshine charged 
 with the crisp tang of a matchless April morning at the North, 
 and through them, like the softly pulsing current of a sub- 
 conscious thought, there breathes a monotone of summer 
 insect song and the ceaseless hum of active human life. About 
 the castle the air is redolent of fragrant sub-tropical flowers 
 and alive with bird trillings. The sky which broods above is 
 of a winsome, dimpling blue, quite Italian in its charm and 
 color. The polychrome-tiled domes of the city churches — 
 sturdy reminders of Colonial days — flash heliographic sig- 
 nals across the Valley, and from their tall campanarios there 
 occasionally ride down on the wind the deep tones of their 
 ancient bells. The mellow voice of the great bell of Santa 
 Maria de Guadalupe , in the Cathedral tower, is easily heard 
 here, 3 miles from the plaza. Lake Texcoco, like a huge, highly 
 polished mirror in a dusty frame, lies beyond the city at the 
 E. To the N. of it is the hallowed shrine of that Indian Prin- 
 cess, the Virgin of Guadalupe , and the spires of her sanctu- 
 ary overlook the magic well, the hill, and the quiet graves 
 of Tepeyac. There Santa Anna lies, perchance dreaming re- 
 gretfully of his part in the American invasion, when alien, 
 hurtling shells burst within and tore the heart of this old castle 
 whereon we stand. At the N.-W. is a range of jejune hills, 
 several white-walled haciendas . and the sacrosanct hill and 
 chapel of Nuestra Sefiora de los Remedies — patroness of 
 the Spaniards in New Spain. In the foreground are the peace- 
 ful villages of Tacuba, Popotla, Tlaxpana and a host of ham- 
 lets and colonial. Around to the W. is the Fundition Nacional f 
 the Casa Mata , the battlefield of Molino del Rey and the 
 weather-beaten old mill — the military key to Chapultepec. 
 Between them and Tacubaya at the S., in a shaded grove of 
 weeping willows and Thuja trees, is Dolores , the sad, silent, 
 mirthless city of the dead. San Angel , Coyoacan , Churubusco 
 and Tlalpan string out from W. to E. along the sunlit slopes of 
 Ajusco , like huge white cameos on an emerald field. If it be 
 early February a strong glass will show the great color blotches 
 which mark the towns, to be fruit blossoms warmed into 
 fragrant life by an ardent sun. The fine Paseo de la Reforma 
 — the Empress Carlota's eucalyptus path — stretches like a 
 plumb-line to the equestrian statue of Charles IV — whose 
 predecessor’s money built this glorious summer retreat. To the 
 left and right of the paseo are the new homes of the capital’s 
 foreign residents. The roadway which stretches out toward 
 the N. from the castle is the Calzada de la Veronica — named 
 for that tender episode on the road to Calvary. The fine 
 Calzada de la Exposition, within the Park enclosure, leads to 
 the adjacent and attractive Chapultepec Heights Colony, 
 described hereinafter. 
 
Chapultepec Heights . MEXICO CITY 390a 
 
 Chapultepec Heights Colony ( Colonia de las lomas de 
 Chapultepec) , a new and unusually attractive colony occupy- 
 ing upward of 2,000 acres which once comprised the old Haci- 
 enda Morales , on an elevated plateau at the immediate rear 
 of the castle grounds, is the most favorably located of any of 
 the city colonias, and no doubt is destined to be the premier 
 colony of the capital. It occupies a commanding position high 
 above the city floor, on a sunlit slope backed by a splendid 
 mountain range, and with views which include the castle, the 
 forest, the wide city, Popocatepetl, Iztaccihuatl, and all the 
 mt. giants which environ the valley. 
 
 A more ideal situation could scarcely be imagined for a 
 dwelling; a beautiful, high, healthy, tranquil, gently sloping 
 mesa, with magnificent vistas, fine air, yet within easy reach 
 (15 min. by autobus , camion , motor, etc.) of the city spread out 
 at the foot of the slope. 
 
 In few places of the world have nature and art combined so 
 harmoniously as in this cool, brilliant, sunlit slope, where a 
 tropical latitude is minimized by a delightful altitude; where 
 a charming, semi-medieval castle, palms and snow-clad vol- 
 canoes, city spires and country shrines, and one of the finest 
 forest reserves on the continent, are all segments in a com- 
 prehensive view. 
 
 Between Chapultepec and the Colonia, flanking the wide 
 Calzada de la Exposcion, is a Jardin Botanico where lovely 
 plants from many climes delight the eye and senses. Near by 
 is a Jardin Zoologico filled with birds and animals from many 
 countries. Both are government undertakings, and both form 
 items in a great civic plan to enrich and beautify the neighbor- 
 hood. The Government Wireless Station stands at the right. 
 
 As far back as 1629 Don Rodrigo Pacheco Osorio, Marques 
 de Cerralvo and 15th Viceroy (1624-35) of New Spain, sug- 
 gested the advisability of transferring the vice-regal capital 
 from its present situation (then ravaged almost constantly 
 by miasmatic and other endemic diseases, and subjected to 
 almost continual inundation) to the air-swept reaches back of 
 Chapultepec Forest, but it was not until 1783 that the Viceroy 
 Don Matias de Galvez (see p. 386) acted upon the suggestion 
 I and erected a summer home which eventually developed into 
 I Chapultepec Castle. 
 
 The years sped by and had merged into centuries when an 
 American company, the Mexican International Trust Co., 
 S. A. {Samuel W . Rider, president) saw the tremendous pos- 
 sibilities of the region and undertook to acquire it. Patient 
 persistence was needed to overcome local prejudice, Spanish 
 land-grants, ancient titles and financial and other opposition, 
 but Chapultepec Heights Colony finally became a beautiful 
 reality. The same company had brought into being the ex- 
 tensive and now thickly settled Colonia Cuauhtemoc, in the 
 
3906 
 
 MEXICO CITY Lomas de ChapuUepec. 
 
 city proper, the Altavista Colony and the San Angel Inn , at 
 San Angel, and the Colonia Mir aval, at Cuernavaca. The 
 fact that property along the Paseo de la Reforma has multi- 
 plied in value 30 times in the last 30 years, and that in 20 
 years Colonia Ro??ia holdings have increased 15 times their 
 original worth, would indicate that this American venture is 
 destined to reap a success greater than its promoters have 
 dreamed of. 
 
 The Colonia contains sixty-five miles of streets with many 
 fine boulevards, some of them 135 ft. wide. There are broad 
 walks flanked bv flowering trees and shrubs, plazas, parks, 
 glorietas, bridal-paths, golf-links, children's playgrounds, 
 tennis-courts, fields for baseball, football and polo, and at- 
 tractive club houses. American-built bungalows are the out- 
 standing architectural features. 
 
 A deep, rocky barranca (ravine) runs through a section of 
 the vast estate, and beyond this, on still higher ground (from 
 250 to 500 ft. above the city) are mir adores, or lookouts, and 
 an Observation Park whence one commands entrancing views 
 over the colony to the castle and city, thence to the volcanoes. 
 Giant Ajusco rises at the right, Los Remedios is visible at the 
 left, while far across the valley are the Toluca Mountains, 
 and the glistening spires of Guadalupe . The changing lights 
 at sunrise and sunset often are gorgeous, and from the heights 
 the delighted eye ranges over one of the finest prospects in 
 nature. 
 
 Whosoever finds himself at this high vantage point when the 
 moon is full, and who fails to see the old castillo when Luna 
 sheds her pale, gossamer radiance over it and pencils deep 
 shadows beneath the overhanging eaves, or when she lays 
 slender, searching, silvery fingers between the outspread 
 branches of the giant forest trees and traces elfin shadows or 
 lace fretwork on the gravelled walks beneath, loses something 
 out of his life which can never be quite replaced. Then, save 
 for the rush of the little stream in the barranca, a solemn 
 stillness permeates the spot. Silent are the city bells and the 
 erstwhile happy birds, which now sleep in their nests in the 
 topmost branches of the tall ahuehuetes of the Chapultepec 
 forest. The great castle looms much larger than during the 
 day when the sword-like sunbeams cut the clinging shadows 
 away from it, and with its sombrely lustrous roof-points blink- 
 ing at the face of the moon it makes a picture which one does 
 not soon forget. 
 
 L T nder the bewitching influence of this radiant orb the 
 memory harkens t^ack to the glittering Indian and vice-regal 
 processions which anciently wound beneath the great forest 
 trees and to the point where the castillo stands, and one can 
 almost hear the soft, rhythmical tramp of ghostly feet, the 
 clank of armor, the murmur of long-dead voices and the chant 
 
MEXICO CITY 
 
 42. Route. 391 
 
 of the priestly ritual that accompanied the processions of vice- 
 regal palanquins and mail-clad conquistador es. Thronging 
 memories of a thousand years cling about the great forest, 
 some of the old trees of which saw the first Spaniards who 
 came to Tenochtitlan, and perchance knew of Montezuma and 
 the barbaric splendor of his imperial court. Enshrined, too, 
 in their noble groves, mayhap are recollections of the first 
 Americans — certainly of those who fought through them 
 during the unhappy period of the Mexican war. 
 
 Bayard Taylor thought the most beautiful view in the 
 world was that of the Vale of Cashmere, and after it, the 
 Valley of Mexico from Chapultepec heights. The vista has 
 changed since “Montezuma and his predecessors sought dis- 
 traction from administrative cares and communed with 
 dryad oracles in the hallowed groves of ancient AhuehueteSj” 
 but it is still surpassingly beautiful, with a charm that will 
 scarcely fade from the minds of those who love to view life 
 from the high places. 
 
 To the world-traveller the magnificent forest, the high-poised 
 castillo dreaming of the vanished glories of viceregal and im- 
 perial days, the ancient Aztec stronghold and the mountains 
 which overshadow it as the Himalayas overshadow Darjeeling, 
 recall other beauty spots in other lands — Nikko, Chuzenji, 
 Buitenzorg, Kandy, Simla, A j mere — ; but few if any of them 
 surpass, in recessive charm, this age-old stronghold of the 
 early Tzins. In a way it is sui generis, and once seen it is never 
 forgotten. 
 
 Pedestrians will find the tramp over the hills from Chapul- 
 tepec Heights to San Angel a delightful excursion. Each is 
 practically within sight of one another, and at the San Angel 
 terminus the beautiful San Angel Inn with its ecelesiological 
 charm awaits one. The volcanoes of Popocatepetl and Iztac- 
 cihuatl are always within view, while from the elevated places 
 magnificent and far-reaching views are had of the city, Guad- 
 alupe and the environing country. — Not far to the right of 
 the Colonia, visible in the distance (about 3 M.), is the historic 
 town of Naucdlpam and the Shrine of Nuestra Senora de los 
 Remedies (described at p. 191). 
 
 The Panteon de Dolores, S.-W. of Chapultepec castle (V. 
 PL B, 3) on the slope of a hill called Tabla de Dolores , reached 
 by the Dolores tranvias at frequent intervals from the Zocalo, 
 was opened in 1875, and comprises nearly 300 acres. More 
 than 160,000 persons are buried here. 
 
 Environs of Mexico City. 
 
 Guadalupe-Hidalgo. Tlalpan. The Country Club. Churubusco. 
 Coyoacan. The Pedregal. San Angel. La Pied ad. Mixcoac. Tacu- 
 
 BAYA. POPOTLA. TACUBA. AzCAPOTZ ALCO. 
 
 The Environs of the capital have a number of special attractions in the 
 several shrines (chief among them that of Our Lady of Guadalupe) , and 
 pretty suburban towns with their old churches and fine settings. The 
 
392 Route Jfl. 
 
 GUADALUPE 
 
 most important of these are described below. The plan of the Valley of 
 Mexico is referred to as “V. PI.” to differentiate it from the plan of the 
 city. (See opposite page 391.) 
 
 Guadalupe-Hidalgo (usually called Guadalupe and pro- 
 nounced Wah-dah-foop-e), a suburban town (V. PI. C, 2) 
 3 miles N.-E. of the Plaza Mayor , at once the most sacred 
 and the most popular Catholic shrine in the Republic, is 
 reached by the tranvias of the Guadalupe line (in 15 min., 
 fare 10 c. 1st cl.) which start from the N.-E. corner of the 
 plaza garden. 
 
 The cars pass along the S. side of the Cathedral, then turn N. and 
 traverse one of the oldest sections of the city; passing the quaint Plaza 
 and Church of Santo Domingo , the Escuelade Medicina, the old Parr o quia 
 de Santa Ana with the ch. of the same name; the Hipodromo de Peralvillo 
 and the Estacion del Ferrocarril Hidalgo y Nordeste (on the r.). After cross- 
 ing the track of the Mexican Rly., the car-line parallels the old Guadalupe 
 Calzada (on the 1.), constructed in 1675, and flanked by a double row of 
 chopos (black-poplars) and alamos (white-poplars). Formerly it was the 
 custom for ostensibly devout pilgrims to traverse this old highway on their 
 knees, stopping and praying at each of the 14 altars or stations of the cross 
 (most of them now demolished) which then stretched between the city and 
 the sanctuary. The lakes of the Valley of Mexico, and the snow-clad moun- 
 tains of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl are visible on the r. Near Guadalupe 
 are the ferruginous springs of the Hacienda de Aragon (waters about 77° 
 Fahr.), now little frequented. As the cars enter the town they turn to 
 the E., then traverse several narrow calles , and finally stop in front of the 
 door of the Basilica de Guadalupe , which faces a paved square, a pretty 
 garden, and a bronze Statue of Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla (erected by the 
 Ayuntamiento in 1886-1899) holding aloft his war standard emblazoned 
 with the image of the Virgin of Guadalupe. The fountain facing the statue 
 is called La Fuente Guadalupana. The tram-cars are apt to be crowded on 
 Sundays and holidays. 
 
 The Town — named in honor of the Virgin and of .the 
 
 E atriot Miguel Hidalgo — stretches around the S. and E. 
 
 ase of the Cerrito de Tepeyacac (Aztec — “ point of the hill ”), 
 and has a population of some 10,000, which is swelled to 60- 
 100,000 during the great pilgrimages (Romerias, peregrina- 
 ciones) which the Indians of the Republic make to the shrine. 
 The houses are usually one story, and the church and hill 
 dominate the landscape. The place wears a perpetual air of 
 joyousness; the country Indians, by their presence, rendering 
 it particularly interesting to foreigners. The house in the 
 CaUe del Bosque , No. 22 (tablet), was General Porfirio Diaz's 
 headquarters in 1867. Before the Conquest, the Cerro was the 
 site of an Aztec temple dedicated to Tonantzin , protectress 
 of the Totonoqui Indians, and goddess of the Earth and of 
 Corn. The little settlement which grew up about the sanc- 
 tuary after the apparition of the Virgin was called Tepeaquillo. 
 It was made a villa (town) June 24, 1751, and was raised to 
 the rank of a ciudad — with the name of Guadalupe-Hidalgo — 
 Feb. 12, 1828. The town was also originally called Quaut - 
 lalapan, which (says Beaumont) was corrupted by the Span- 
 iards into Guadalupe. (Historians derive the latter word from 
 
GUADALUPH J+2. Route. 393 
 
 the Arabic guada, river, and the Latin lupus, its signification 
 then being wolf river.) 
 
 The spot is the focus of the most fervent and powerful reli- 
 gious cult in the Mexican Republic, — the holy of holies of the 
 Catholic Apostolic Roman Church, — and it has been for 
 centuries the place toward which the eyes and thoughts of 
 thousands of Mexicans have turned. The keystone of this 
 cult is the alleged miraculous picture of the Virgin of Guada- 
 lupe, which, according to tradition, dates from 1531, ten years 
 and four months after the Conquest of the Valley of Mexico. 
 
 The Shrine of the Virgin is to Mexicans what the Ganges 
 is to the Hindus, Mecca to the Mahommedans, and Nikko to the 
 Japanese. It is believed that the Indians regard the image of 
 the Virgin as a divine manifestation of their primitive goddess 
 ( diosa ), rather than the divinity of the Spanish-Mexicans, 
 and on Dec. 12 of each year (a fiesta which the Indians cele- 
 brate with great enthusiasm as their special holy day) the 
 ch. is given over to them; their celebration, unhampered by 
 priests, being conducted in their own way. Foreigners find 
 this unique, but trying. The unhygienic and ignorant Indians 
 overrun the village to such an extent that the problem of pre- 
 venting pestilence is a serious one to the authorities. The ch. 
 is usually packed to suffocation: the devotees bring habits 
 and an entomological congress as varied as they are astonish- 
 ing, all the ch. decorations within reach are kissed to a high 
 polish and thoroughly fumigated later, and all breathe freer 
 when the frenzied shriners have returned to their different 
 homes. Many of the pilgrims are wretchedly poor, and to 
 maintain themselves during the journey — which not a few 
 make on foot — they bring curious home-made knick-knacks, 
 pottery, eatables, blankets and whatnot, which they sell along 
 the route and at impromptu stands erected near the ch. and 
 plaza. These stands are notable for a kind of small biscuit 
 (biscocho) called Gorditas de la Virgen (little fat ones of the 
 Virgin), made of maiz de Cacahuazintla (a large-grained corn 
 resembling horses’-teeth) from the valleys of Toluca and 
 Tulancingo. The gorditas sell at two for one centavo, and the 
 hungry Indians eat them in amazing quantities. 
 
 Minor Indian festivals are held Nov. 22; on almost every 
 day in Dec., and. on many days during the remaining months 
 of the year. A higher class festival, in which the Archbishop 
 and the Catholic clergy take part, is held on Oct. 12 (anni- 
 versary of the crowning of the Virgin) and on Jan. 12. 
 
 The original Spanish Virgin of Guadalupe, which is still preserved in a 
 fine camarin in a special chapel adjoining the Gerdnimite Convent of 
 Guadalupe, Estremadura, Spain, is a figure of the madonna said to have 
 been carved by St. Luke and presented by Gregory the Great to San 
 Leandro, the Gothic uprooter of Arianism. According to tradition it was 
 miraculously preserved during the six centuries of the Moorish occupa- 
 tion of Spain, and was rediscovered (1330) by one Giles, a cowkeeper 
 
394 Route 42. GUADALUPE History . 
 
 of Cdceres. A hermitage was built for it, then a chapel; it finally passed 
 into the hands of the Geronimite monks, who, by shrewdly exploiting it, 
 became so rich that in Spain the proverb ran . 
 
 “ Quien es conde, y desea ser duque 
 Metase fraile en Guadalupe 
 
 When the convento de los Geronimos was suppressed one of the rooms 
 was found almost filled with gold, and the wine cellars were proportion- 
 ately rich in choice products of the vineyards. 
 
 One cannot but admire the positive genius of Zumarraga in planning 
 that the Virgin appear in Mexico not as the carved figure, nor yet in the 
 likeness of a Spanish woman, but rather in the guise of an Indian prin- 
 cess with some resemblance to the revered goddess Tonantzin , thus 
 striking the Indian population at the most vulnerable point. 
 
 Those who desire further information on the subject of the Spanish 
 Virgin can consult, Historia de Nuestra Seiiora de Guadalupe , by Gabriel 
 de Talavera, Toledo, 1597. With particular reference to the Mexican 
 apparition : Miguel Cabrera, Aparicion dela Yirgen de Guadalupe, Mexico, 
 1756. (At a meeting of artists in Mexico in 1751 Cabrera was selected to 
 make a copy of the painting for presentation to Benedict XIV. This 
 copy was the most celebrated ever taken. He wrote a lengthy critique 
 on the original to show that it was not painted by any human agency.) 
 Bernal Diaz, Historia V erdadera. Many translations and reprints. Lasso 
 de la Vega, Huei Tlamahuicoltica, Mexico, 1649; Boturini , Idea. Hist. 
 Gen. A mer., Madrid, 1846; Vetancurt, Teatro Mexicano, Mexico, 1698; 
 Sanchez, Imogen de Guadalupe, Mex., 1648; Cabrera, Maravilla Americana, 
 Mex., 1756; Florencia, Zodiaco Mariano, Mex., 1755; Florencia, Estrella 
 del Norte, Mex., 1741; Castro, Octavo Maravilla Mexicana, Mex., 1729. 
 
 History: On the morning of Sat. Dec. 9, 1531, an Indian 
 of low birth, one Quauhtlatohua, who had received baptism 
 a few years before and had been christened Juan Diego (John 
 James), was proceeding from his native town of Cuauhtitlan 1 
 (p. 137) to Tlaltelolco, to hear mass and to receive instruction. 
 On his way thither he was obliged to pass the rugged, sterile 
 hill of Tepeyacac (called also Quautlalpan and Tepeyae), on 
 which there grew no vegetation except the cactus and stunted 
 shrubs, and which was seamed with fissures and pierced with 
 cavities. “ While crossing the slope of this barren mount, 
 harmonious strains of sweetest music enrapt his attention, 
 and turning his eyes upward in the direction whence the 
 melody came, with increased wonder he beheld an arc of 
 glorious coloring. In its centre shone a brilliant light, such 
 as that shed from a heavenly throne. The rocks around were 
 resplendent with prismatic hues, and seemed to him masses 
 of opal, sapphire, and burnished gold. Gradually he drew 
 nearer, and in the radiance beheld a lady of beautiful coun- 
 tenance and form, who in a gentle and assuring voice called 
 him Hijo mio } my son, and bade him ascend to where she 
 stood. When he reached the spot the lady told him that she 
 was the Virgin Mary, and it was her wish that, on the place 
 where she was standing, a church should be built. She then 
 charged him to hasten to the bishop and inform him of her 
 commands. Juan Diego at once proceeded on his mission, 
 
 1 Diego was born at Cuauhtitlan, and at the time of the appearance was 
 living at Tolpetlac. He was 58 years old. 
 
GUADALUPE 
 
 42. Route. 395 
 
 and told his story to the bishop Fray Juan de Zum^rraga. 
 The bishop, however, gave no credence to the tale, and Juan 
 returned to the spot where he had seen the vision. Again the 
 Virgin appeared and bade him on the morrow repeat to the 
 bishop her message. More attention was paid to him on this 
 occasion. The prelate questioned him closely, but telling him 
 that his statements were insufficient, bade him bring some 
 sign from the lady by wffiich he might recognize her divine 
 command. Under the impression that the Indian was labor- 
 ing under an illusion, the bishop directed two persons to follow 
 him unobserved and watch his proceedings. This was done. 
 And when Juan Diego approached the bridge spanning a small 
 stream which crossed the way, he disappeared from their sight, 
 nor did the closest watch discover him. Returning to the 
 bishop they made their report, and expressed the belief that 
 the Indian was guilty of witchcraft. 
 
 “ Meanwhile Juan pursued his course, unconscious of the 
 miracle performed in his behalf, and reported to the Virgin the 
 result of his mission. She bade him come to her on the mor- 
 row, when a sure and certain sign would be given him. He 
 did not, however, carry out the Virgin’s injunctions, owing 
 to the condition of his uncle, Juan Bernardino, who had fallen 
 ill with a fever which the Indians called cocolixtle. But on 
 the second day, which was the 12th of December, while on his 
 way to Tlaltelolco to obtain the services of a priest for the 
 dying relative, he remembered his neglect, and in his sim- 
 plicity hoped to avoid meeting the apparition by taking an- 
 other path. On arriving at a small fountain (now called the 
 Pocito de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe ), he perceived the 
 Virgin descending the slope, surrounded by the same efful- 
 gence as on the first occasion. The vision dazzled him. Con- 
 science-stricken, yet contrite, he fell on his knees trembling. 
 But the Virgin consoled him, and bade him be in no anxiety 
 for his uncle, who was well already. She then bade him ascend 
 the hill, cull the roses he would there find, and bring them 
 to her in the folds of his mantle. The man obeyed, finding 
 on the barren summit a miraculous garden of roses which shed 
 a delicious perfume. Gathering as he had been bidden, he 
 carried the roses to the holy one, who, having taken them in 
 her hands, gave them back to the Indian, and bade him carry 
 them unseen by any one to the bishop. 
 
 “ On arriving at the bishop’s, Juan Diego unfolded his mantle 
 and displayed the roses as the required sign, and behold, a 
 figure of the Virgin was found painted upon the mantle! Then 
 all acknowledged the holy nature of the apparition and bent 
 their knees in worship. Zumarraga, with priestly hand, took 
 from the shoulders of the native the sacred cloth, and rever- 
 ently placed it in his oratory. On the following day the prelate, 
 accompanied by his household, and guided by Juan Diego, vis- 
 
396 Route J$. 
 
 GUADALUPE 
 
 ited the spot designated by the Virgin. His mission ended, 
 Juan Diego returned, accompanied by several of the bishop’s 
 followers. On their arrival at Tolpetlac, Juan Bernardino was 
 found to be in perfect health, and it was discovered that at 
 the same hour in which the Virgin had told Juan Diego of his 
 recovery she had appeared to Bernardino, restored him to 
 health, and expressed her wishes with regard to the erection 
 of a church. 
 
 “Far and vide spread the tidings of the miracle, and the 
 crowds which flocked to the bishop’s palace to see the divinely 
 painted figure became so great that he placed it on the altar 
 of the Cathedral (at Mex. City) that all in turn might venerate 
 it. There it remained till a shrine was erected on the site 
 indicated by Mary, whither it was transferred in a solemn 
 procession in 1532.” The nobility of the Mexican capital pros- 
 trated itself before the picture which the Spaniards named 
 Nuestra Seiiora de Guadalupe (in honor of the Guadalupe of 
 the Geronimites), and the Indians Santa Maria de Tequantlaxo- 
 peuh. Juan Diego and his uncle Bernardino became the serv- 
 ants of the Virgin in her sanctuary, and Juan and his wife 
 (Julia Marfa), took the vow of chastity, and thenceforth lived 
 in a little house near the chapel. Juan Diego “died a most 
 Christian death ” in the year 1548 (at the age of 70 years), 
 and was buried in the church near the Virgin’s shrine. 
 
 The “ miraculous ” apparition set the Mexicans almost de- 
 lirious with joy and religious enthusiasm. Many of them 
 changed their manner of living, and the deep devotion of 
 some of their descendants can be traced to this happening. 1 
 The ecclesiastical orders in Mexico immediately set about 
 securing Papal recognition of the apparition, but it was not 
 until 1663, more than a century later, that Alexander VII 
 would even admit the relation of the apparition, and he or- 
 dered its investigation by the Congregation of Rites. By this 
 time the image had become the chief object of veneration 
 in Mexico, and it was considered the true Mexican divinity. 
 Dec. 12 was set apart in perpetuity as a day of holy fes- 
 tival in the Mexican Virgin’s honor, and a concession for a 
 plenary jubilee to be held on this date was obtained from 
 Pope Clement IX in 1667. 
 
 In 1736 Mexico City was visited by a dreadful pestilence, — 
 ? natlazahuatl, — and the affrighted natives promptly elected 
 the Virgin their patron saint. It is said she caused the plague 
 
 1 It had the effect also of stimulating the jealous friars in other parts to 
 active research, with the result that in due course another Juan Diego 
 came into prominence inTlaxcala, and discovered a spring and a miracu- 
 lous picture of Nuestra Setiora de Ocotlan (comp. p. 428). Others were 
 found in swift succession, and soon Mexico was “ knee-deep ” in santos and 
 santas “ miraculously ” disclosed to humble Indian neophytes. Scarcely 
 a ch. but had its divine patroness, many of which are worshipped to this 
 day. 
 
Church. 
 
 GUADALUPE 
 
 42. Route. 397 
 
 to disappear. The prelates continued their efforts to secure 
 her recognition, which was finally accorded, though grudg- 
 ! ingly, by a Papal Bull of May 25, 1754, two hundred and 
 twenty-three years after the first appearance. Henceforth 
 ; the Virgin of Guadalupe was declared the Patroness and 
 Protectress of New Spain, and the image became the official 
 ! and venerated symbol of the Mexican church and people. 
 
 On the memorable 15th of Sept. 1810, the patriot priest 
 Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla set Mexico aflame by taking a pic- 
 , ture of the Virgin from the parish church of Atotonilco, 
 placing it on his banner and declaring her to be the patroness 
 of the Mexicans in their revolt against Spanish misrule. The 
 Virgin was made protectress of the revolution, and Hidalgo’s 
 temporary successes caused the rebels to adopt “ Guadalupe ” 
 as their war-cry. The stimulus to the cause, arising from a 
 religious fanaticism which at critical periods is often more 
 potent than reason, was incalculable. The happy issue of the 
 War for Independence further endeared the Virgin to the 
 nation, and one of the first acts of the congress of the new 
 Republic (Nov. 27, 1824) was to decree Dec. 12 a national 
 holiday. Prior thereto, Agustin de Iturbide, the first Mexican 
 Emperor (1822), created an Order of the Virgin of Guadalupe, 
 with its corresponding decoration. The first president of the 
 Republic, Felix Fernandez, changed his name to Guadalupe 
 Victoria. Succeeding presidents, as well as the Emperor 
 Maximilian, made solemn official pilgrimages to the Virgin’s 
 shrine. When the American army under General Scott was 
 in Mexico City in 1848, the Mexicans appealed to the Virgin to 
 remove the soldiers, and soon thereafter a treaty of peace was 
 signed at Guadalupe. 
 
 A host of miracles are attributed by the simple Indians to the Virgin 
 whom they call La Virgen India de Tepeyac. Other folks less simple 
 believe in her miraculous powers. Within the ch. is a painting which 
 depicts in a spirited manner the first miracle said to have been per- 
 formed by the image. While the picture was being transported with 
 great solemnity to the first temple erected in its honor, a number of 
 Indians danced in front of the procession. One of these accidentally 
 discharged an arrow which lodged in the jugular vein of another and 
 caused instant death. The yet warm body was carried to the image, the 
 | Virgin reached out and removed the arrow, and the dead man returned to 
 I life and health ! 
 
 The Collegiate Church (la colegiata ), completed April 17, 
 1709, at a (supposed) cost of $3,000,000 (which is no doubt 
 a gross exaggeration), was solemnly dedicated May 1, of the 
 same year. The structure was recognized by a Papal Bull 
 of May 6, 1749. The ceremony of transferring the image of 
 the Virgin from the Cathedral at Mex. City was one of the most 
 gorgeous in the religious history of Mexico. All the civil and 
 ecclesiastical authorities, the students, foreign ministers, 
 monks and nuns of the monastic orders formed in the pro- 
 cession, and the church-bells rang incessantly for days. 
 
398 Route 42 . 
 
 GUADALUPE 
 
 The first chapel erected by the order of Bishop Zumarraga was soon 
 found to be too small, and it was enlarged about the middle of the 16th 
 cent. Pilgrimages became so numerous that a larger structure (com- 
 pleted in 1622 at a cost of $52,000) was erected on the site of the present 
 colegiata. The great inundation of 1629 almost ruined this ch., and the 
 image was removed for safe-keeping to the Cathedral. Albeit the waters 
 did not subside for three years, their ultimate retirement was attributed 
 to the intervention of the Virgin, and in consequence her cult grew pro- 
 digiously. So many pilgrims came to the capital to do her homage that 
 the Cathedral would not hold them all. 
 
 The ch. is 184 ft. long by 122 wide, and is surmounted by 
 four towers and a dome, the lantern of the latter rising 125 ft. 
 above the floor. The towers are 110 ft. high, and are not dis- 
 tinguished for grace or beauty. Huge Corinthian columns 
 support the superstructure of the fagade, which is adorned 
 with niched saints and with marble bas-reliefs depicting epi- 
 sodes of the miraculous apparition. There are five entrances, 
 three at the S., one at the W. opposite the Jar din Juarez , and 
 one (now closed but visible from the Tepeyac hill-top) which 
 formerly opened into the convent. Over the wide central en- 
 trance is the Latin inscription, Sacrosancta Romana Lateranen- 
 sis Ecclesia. At the E. end of the atrium, which is enclosed by 
 a high iron grill, are many little stalls ( puestos ) where trinkets 
 of all kinds, and with special reference to the Virgin, are of- 
 fered for sale. Aluminium medallions, ribbons giving the 
 exact measurement of the lady’s head, photographs, votive of- 
 ferings blessed by the padres, and candles {velas) are to be found 
 here. A score or more of ambulating kitchens usually stretch 
 along in front of the old convent at the east. 
 
 The Interior is impressive and attractive. The color scheme 
 of dark green and gold appeals to the quiet-minded. Double 
 rows of immense clustered Corinthian piers delimn the aisles 
 and nave and support the high, vaulted roof decorated in 
 blue with gold stars. That portion of the ch. immediately 
 about the entrance and the organ loft is decorated al estilo 
 Bizantino , while the sides (which are devoid of chapels) were 
 newly decorated in 1SS7. We enter the basilica through the 
 main entrance at the W. — In the foreground of the W. aisle 
 is a huge mural painting (the work of Salome Pina) represent- 
 ing Fray Francisco Lopez in the act of showing a copy of the 
 painting of the Mexican Virgin to Pope Benedict XIV. The 
 exclamation of His Holiness, “ Non fecit taliter omni natione” 
 — this was granted to no other people, — is known to every 
 Mexican child that knows of the Virgin. The painting was 
 presented by the Diocese of the state of Queretaro. The 
 bronze inscription below refers to this presentation. The many 
 votive offerings of silver, in the long gilt frames which flank 
 the W. entrance, were put here by devotees of the shrine. 
 The inscription on the small marble tablet below the first 
 frame refers to them, and requests the Virgin to accept them 
 
GUADALUPE 
 
 42 . Route . 399 
 
 in gratitude for her many favors. The huge canvas above the 
 entrance, with four paintings in the corners and a long Latin 
 inscription in the centre, depicts episodes in the apparition, 
 and describes the miraculousness of the Virgin. There is a com- 
 panion piece to this over the E. exit. The next painting 
 (by Francisco Parra ) was presented by the Bishop of San Luis 
 Potosi, and represents the Jura del Patronato, or Oath of Pa- 
 tronage. The next, and smaller picture (the work of Jose 
 Maria Ibarraran) , represents the Canonical Inquiry, or lvfor- 
 maciones de 1666 . Each of the four larger paintings cost four 
 thousand pesos; the coloring is so much alike that they might 
 easily be taken for the work of a single painter. Let into the 
 floor near the entrance we have just passed is a bronze tablet 
 above the grave of Antonio Maria de Bucareli y Ursua , one 
 of the best (46th) of the Spanish Viceroys ; he died April 
 9, 1779. 
 
 Ascending the stairs at the N. end of the W. aisle, we come 
 to a gloomy chapel dedicated to the Holy Founders of Re- 
 ligious Orders in Mexico, and to San Joaquin. The wheel 
 window of colored glass represents Santa Teresa. Turning 
 to the r. we enter the apse with three altars, dedicated to 
 Santa Rosa, San Pedro, and San Jose. The stained-glass win- 
 dows (of European origin) are modern, and were presented to 
 the ch. by prominent Mexicans, whose names appear on 
 them. Lined along the tras-coro are nine canonical chairs 
 with carvings above them (in high relief) of martyred saints, 
 and carved wood figures (in low relief) of santas. The paint- 
 ings above the altars are mediocre. The glass squares in the 
 floor admit light to the crypt, wherein are buried many church 
 dignitaries. We now enter the chapel dedicated to Santa Ana. 
 Above is a wheel window with a colored glass medallion of 
 Santa Mathilde. The door at the E. side opens into a room 
 fairly filled with cheap paintings of persons “ cured” of mala- 
 dies by the miraculous intervention of the Virgin. The altar 
 in this bay is dedicated to the Holy Mexican Founders of Re- 
 ligious Orders. The auxiliary organ loft is reached through 
 one (the east) of the three doors below the 5 small polychrome 
 figures of saints, and by means of a narrow winding stair (con- 
 sult the sacristan). The floor hereabout is paved with black 
 and white marble squares; that in the older portion of the ch. 
 is of mesquite, which is as durable for ch. floors as teak is for 
 ships’ decks. 
 
 We now pass through a small nickelled gate, behind the 
 high altar, into the coro, which contains a beautifully carved 
 silleria , the work of Salome Pina. There are 31 seats in the 
 top row and 16 in the lower. The structure, which is of finely 
 stained mahogany and of exceedingly rich design, is called 
 the coro de los canonigos. Portraits of certain of the Popes, 
 allegories of the Rosary, and paintings of the seraphim add 
 
400 Route 42 . 
 
 GUADALUPE 
 
 to the richness of the work. The old gilt lectern, and the de- 
 corations of the interior of the dome are worth looking at. 
 The rather well executed painting of Christ and St. John, 
 at the rear of the high altar, surrounded by carved brass work, 
 is unsigned. We descend the stairs at the E. of the high altar, 
 and pause to admire the handsome carved wood and silver 
 gateway of the Sagrario. In this room there is also some 
 well-carved sUleria. 
 
 We now come to the huge mural painting called the Primer 
 Milagro de la Santa Virgen (first miracle of the Holy Virgin) 
 referred to at p. 397. The picture was presented to the ch. by 
 the diocese of Durango, and was painted by G. Carrasco 
 in 1895. Following this is the E. exit, flanked by framed 
 votive offerings, a companion piece to those on the W. The 
 next painting (by Felipe S. Gutierrez), presented by the dio- 
 cese of Zacatecas, depicts the conversion of the Indians to 
 the Catholic faith, after the apparition of the Virgin. 
 
 Toribio Motolinia, who kept a record of the baptisms from 1524 to 
 1539, says that in the City of Mexico and the surrounding villages more 
 than a million children and adults were baptized, an equal number in the 
 district of Tezcuco, and in Michoacan and other provinces over three 
 millions more. In the single year of 1537 above five hundred thousand 
 received the faith. Consult Bancroft’s History of Mexico , vol. ii. p. 408. 
 
 The High Altar, which occupies the N. end of the nave 
 and has for its central figure the celebrated tilma with the 
 image of the Virgin, is the most interesting object in the ch. 
 Designed in 1802 by the famous Tolsa, it was not completed, 
 because of revolutionary troubles, until 1836. It is a striking 
 structure of marble and bronze, and is said to have cost, with 
 the baldachino, nearly 381,000 pesos. Four huge columns of 
 Scotch granite, each 21 ft. high and weighing 25,000 lbs., 
 with bases and capitals of bronze (made in Italy from Mexican 
 designs), support the massive, bronze-adorned cupola, which 
 in turn is surmounted by bronze angels and a cross, the latter 
 almost smothered in electric bulbs. The beautiful white 
 portal is Carrara marble, and cost 891,000. The chancel and 
 the sides of the presbiterio are enclosed by a massive silver 
 railing rising from a white marble base, the whole a gift of 
 the Viceroy Bucareli. This (hollow) railing is said to weigh 
 24 tons — which is to be doubted. Many of the splendid silver 
 ornaments which once adorned this ch. went to swell Santa 
 Annas war-chest in 1847; others were sequestrated by the 
 Reform Laws: the whole amounted, it is said, to some two 
 millions of pesos in value. Facing the presbiterio, just within 
 the comulgalorio , and near the entrance to the crypt, is a 
 kneeling figure, of marble (presented to the ch. by the Escu - 
 dero y Echanove family), of the Archbishop Labastida y Ddvalo , 
 the venerable prelate who conceived the idea of crowning 
 the Virgin. The figure (the work of Nicoli) is of heroic size, and 
 
GUADALUPE 
 
 42. Route. 401 
 
 the attitude is striking. Just beneath the picture, which is 
 surmounted by angels in relief and flanked (on the r.) by a 
 kneeling marble statue of Juan Diego and (on the 1.) by one 
 of Bishop Zumarraga, is a splendid gilt baldachino reserved 
 for the Virgin’s crown. 
 
 The Crown of the Virgin , a gorgeous affair, is kept in a steel safe in the 
 sacristy, and is generally exposed to the public view on Oct. 12 (corona- 
 tion day) and Dec. 12, — the anniversary of the Virgin’s appearance to 
 Diego. It can usually be seen through the medium of a small fee adroitly 
 administered to the sacristan. The Papal sanction to the coronation of 
 the image of the Virgin was obtained Feb. 8, 1887, and eight years later 
 (Oct. 12, 1895), the ceremony took place with great solemnity and in the 
 presence of upward of one hundred thousand persons. The crown is per- 
 haps the finest piece of jeweller’s work in the Republic. It is of Parisian 
 origin (the work of Edward Morgan), cost $30,000, and contains jewels 
 said to be worth upward of eight hundred thousand pesos. The gems in 
 its construction and the money for its workmanship were contributed by 
 Mexican ladies. The crown weighs 30 lbs., is 26 centimeters high, 94 wide 
 at the base, and 1 meter 30 centimeters at the widest part of the dome. 
 This ponderous structure of silver, gold and enamel is a maze of angels 
 in relief, stars, ecclesiastical symbols, synodal arms, state shields, the 
 names of bishops and whatnot. The visitor who “tips” the sacristan 
 should insist on seeing the original crown, not the copy made for minor 
 occasions and shown to the unwary as the real article. 
 
 The Picture of the Virgin occupies the centre of the altar, 
 in a gold frame, and is covered with a plate glass thick enough 
 to prevent one determining by what medium it was trans- 
 ferred to the cloth. The picture itself is 6 ft. long by 2 ft. 
 wide, stamped upon a coarse cloth (the tilma of Juan Diego) 
 woven of iczotl , or palma-silvestre. The image covers nearly 
 the entire surface. It is conventional in type, well executed, 
 and, considering its great age, remarkable for the brilliancy 
 of its coloring. The general appearance of the painting is 
 pleasing. The face is less sweet than those usually seen in 
 Murillo’s madonnas, or Ribera’s concepciones , and (perhaps 
 because of the downcast eyes) it lacks the divine qualities of 
 soul which shine forth from the productions of those masters. 
 “The figure appears to stand on a half moon with the points 
 upward. Beneath is the upper half of a figurine of an angel ; 
 the extremities being lost in the clouds. The wings and arms 
 are outspread; the right hand clasps the end of the Virgin’s 
 cloak; the left, that portion of the tunic which falls in folds 
 across the crescent. A deep shadow lighted by 129 rays of 
 golden light forms the background of the main figure: 62 
 of these rays reach out to the right ; 67 to the left. Light clouds 
 hover about the remoter background and form an airy niche 
 in which the outer shadow and the figure stand. The Virgin’s 
 hair is black and is parted in the middle of a smooth and well- 
 proportioned forehead. The brows are thin and symmetrical; 
 the face placid and sweet; the nose aquiline; the downcast 
 eyes are tranquil and half-hidden by the full lids. The mouth 
 is small and somewhat pinched ; the chin tapers to a point, and 
 
402 Route 42 . 
 
 GUADALUPE 
 
 the color of the face is that of rich cream. The features and 
 complexion are supposed to be similar to those of a noble 
 Indian girl of the period during which Juan Diego lived. 
 The small, well-shaped hands are clasped before her breast. 
 Around the waist is a narrow, violet belt, the knotted ends of 
 which fall beneath the right hand. The tunic, which drops 
 away from the throat to the feet, is rose, with deeper tints 
 in the shadows,— and is flecked with symmetrical designs 
 in gold. A small, oval gold brooch, containing a small dark 
 circle in which a cross is depicted, pends from the throat-band. 
 The cuffs of the tunic are turned back L revealing an interior 
 garment which clasps the wrists. The Nile-green cloak, which 
 falls from the crown of the head to the feet, is caught over the 
 left arm and drops away in voluminous folds on that side. 
 A wide selvage of a gold color borders the mantle, on which 
 are embroidered 46 gold stars. From beneath the tunic one 
 foot shows, clad in a light gray slipper.” 
 
 The picture is perhaps of Spanish origin. The work is unlike that of 
 Rodrigo de Cifuentes, the first Spanish portrait painter who came to Mexico 
 (in 1523), and it is at variance with the style of Andres de Concha , who 
 also lived about that time, and whose specialty was altar pieces. Baltazar 
 de Echave , the Elder , one of the most celebrated painters of his time, and 
 whose versatility could have lent itself easily to the production of such 
 a work, did not flourish until 1600, seven decades after the alleged 
 miraculous appearance of the Virgin. Many celebrated paintings were 
 imported into New Spain soon after the Conquest, and it is quite unlikely 
 that history would have failed to record a painter with an ability suffi- 
 ciently marked to have produced a similar work. Few Mexicans believe 
 the picture to have been painted by human hands. The celebrated painter 
 Miguel Cabrera published a brochure (in 1756) devoted to showing that 
 the picture was painted neither in water-colors nor in oil, nor in any 
 other manner artificial or human. The popular verdict is that it bears 
 a closer resemblance to oil than to water-color or distemper. Its lack of 
 resemblance to an ordinary painting is urged in behalf of its divine origin. 
 It is said that on two occasions the glass was removed and Mexican paint- 
 ers of repute sought to determine the medium, which still remains a secret 
 — to the public. The ch. records refer to a copy of the picture, painted 
 by an Italian and presented to the ch. of San Nicolas at Rome; “the 
 Virgin was repeatedly seen to move her eyes and otherwise evince her 
 intelligent interest in mundane affairs.” 
 
 The fact that the apparition occurred during the incumbency of Bishop 
 Zumarraga. the bigot who committed the unpardonable offence of burn- 
 ing the priceless manuscripts of the Tezcuco library, the hieroglyphic 
 history of nations unknown, reaching back a thousand years or more, — 
 records perhaps of the earliest Americans, — is significant. Zumarraga died 
 June 3, 154S, in his 80th year. His death was said to have been mirac- 
 ulously made known all over New Spain on the day of its occurrence. 
 
 Bancroft points out that the tilma, or ayate , said to have belonged to 
 Juan Diego, was longer and narrower than the mantles usually worn. 
 
 A careful scrutiny of the ch. and its contents is difficult on 
 Sundays and feast-days, when the basilica is usually crowded. 
 At those times it presents a very animated and democratic 
 appearance. Well-dressed Mexicans, foreigners, ragged In- 
 dians, crying babies, snooping dogs, blankets with Indian 
 repasts spread upon them, ecclesiastical processions led by 
 small boys swinging incense burners, and others carrying 
 

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 GUADALUPE 
 
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GUADALUPE 
 
 1^2. Route. 403 
 
 banners and canopies, are prominent features. Less visible, 
 but just as prominent, in a way, are the agile specimens of 
 the genus Pulex which the visitor to this sanctuary usually 
 carries away with him. Beggars do not hesitate to sidle up 
 to the stranger and solicit alms “ por el amor de la Santisima 
 Virgen ,” and to pester one with importunities. The noise of 
 the crying babies and the pealing organ, the smoke from the 
 incense and from scores of burning candles do not add to 
 one’s comfort. Early morning is the best time to visit the ch., 
 as it is then apt to be but partly filled. Visitors are permitted 
 to inspect every part of the ch. except the high altar and the 
 coro de los canonigos during services. As a rule tourists have 
 to be content with a distant view of the famous image. A 
 good field-glass aids materially in a minute inspection of it. 
 The visitor who ascends the steps of the presbzterio during 
 service will be ordered off. 
 
 Flanking the Colegiata on the east are the Churchy and ex- 
 convent of Santa Coleta , founded by the Capuchin nuns, and 
 known as Capuchinas de Nuestra Sehora de Guadalupe. It 
 was not until 1779 that the repeated efforts to found a con- 
 vent near the church met with success. Maria Ana de San 
 Juan Nepomuceno finally obtained the royal permission 
 (1780), the support of the Council and the ecclesiastical Chap- 
 ter; and construction was begun in 1782. Alms were solicited, 
 and in 1787 the edifice was completed, at a cost of $212,328. 
 It is much venerated because it housed the picture of the 
 Virgin during the renovation of the Colegiata. With the 
 sequestration of church property it passed into government 
 hands in 1863. It was long used as a barrack, and now serves 
 as an asylum for the poor. The darksome cells of the Capuchin 
 nuns and the gloomy patio are still intact. 
 
 The Chapel of the Well ( Capilla del PocitOy comp, the 
 accompanying plan), two short squares N.-E. of the Colegiata 
 (we cross the little plaza and turn to the 1.) is, next to the ch. 
 itself, the most celebrated spot in Mexico. One of the two 
 elliptical sections of the structure covers the well like a huge 
 dome, the other serves as a chapel, and is an object of venera- 
 tion to all the Indians who come to the shrine. The edifice 
 has three tile-covered domes, is without towers, and dates from 
 1777-91. The tiles are blue and white, of Puebla make, with 
 rib-lines in chrome yellow, and the lantern is a landmark in 
 the neighborhood. The plain wall surfaces are a dark maroon. 
 Notable features are the handsome, star-shaped windows. 
 Many of the aristocrats of the Mexican capital aided the archi- 
 tect ( Francisco Guerrero y Torres ) to build this chapel. Fash- 
 ionable ladies helped the men carry construction materials 
 and did the work of common masons. The poorer workmen 
 gave their Sundays and holidays to the work free. The cost 
 of construction was thus reduced to $50,000, a part of which 
 
404 Route 42 . 
 
 GUADALUPE 
 
 was given by the archbishop Alonzo Nunez de Haro y Peralta ; 
 the remainder was collected in the form of alms. 
 
 We enter through the W. door (open all day, free), step 
 down from the street, and find ourselves on the edge of a 
 bubbling spring impregnated with carbonic acid gas. The 
 waters, which, according to tradition, burst forth from beneath 
 the Virgin’s feet when she commanded Juan Diego to gather 
 flowers on the Tepeyac Hill, are brackish, with a temperature 
 of about 70° Fahr. They contain traces of sulphate and car- 
 bonate of lime, soda, chloride of potassium, magnesia, silicate 
 of soda and potash, and various organic substances: the taste 
 is disagreeable. The credulous attribute miraculous healing 
 powers to them, and hundreds of bottles of the water are 
 carried away each day by devotees. Pilgrims carry the liquid 
 to distant parts of the Republic and sell it to their neighbors. 
 It is to the Mexicans what the Jordan waters are to the 
 Christian world. Tradition affirms that whosoever drinks of 
 the waters of Guadalupe must perforce return to Mexico. An 
 iron railing encloses the well, which apparently has no outlet, 
 and the waters bubble up to within three or four feet of the 
 pavement. At a counter in this room are sold crosses and 
 medals which are said to have touched the true image of the 
 Virgin, ribbons marked with the measure of her head and 
 feet, bottles for the water (no charge for the latter), amulets and 
 many tawdry gimcracks. Despite the alleged sanctity of the 
 place, commercial greed overrides moral ethics, and many 
 times the real value of the articles is demanded of the unsus- 
 pecting. 
 
 Passing round the well we enter the Corinthian chapel be- 
 yond. The decorations are tawdry and glaring, quite Indian 
 in motif and taste. The centrepiece of the high altar is a 
 replica of the image of the Virgin, and the four paintings 
 (mediocre) in the small bays represent episodes in her appari- 
 tion. The wood tribunal is quaint, and the carved figure sup- 
 porting it purports to be of Juan Diego. In the sacristy is a 
 pseudo-authentic picture of this worthy. The chapel under- 
 went what was termed a renovation in 1880. 
 
 Directly across the street from the main entrance to the 
 Chapel of the Well are the stone stairs leading to the summit 
 of the Tepeyac Hill. Halfway to the top stands a stone 
 monument in the semblance of a square-rigged ship’s mast 
 and sails. Tradition relates that certain mariners, being in 
 dire peril at sea (date unknown), vowed that did the blessed 
 Virgin of Guadalupe bring them safely to the land, they would 
 drag their ship’s mast to her shrine and set it up there as a 
 memorial of her protecting power. In due course their tem- 
 pest-tossed barque sailed into Vera Cruz, and the seamen 
 fulfilled their vow by carrying the rigging on their shoulders 
 to the capital, thence to Tepeyac , where they set it up and 
 
GUADALUPE 42 . Route. 405 
 
 built around it, for protection from the weather, the covering 
 of stone. Near the crest, at the right is 
 
 La Capilla del Cerrito (chapel of the little hill), called 
 also the Capilla de Tepeyac, on the spot where Juan Diego 
 gathered the flowers which sprang up there from the stony 
 surface that the incredulous Bishop might be convinced. For 
 many years the site was marked only by a rude wooden cross 
 held in position by a pile of stones. In 1660 Cristobal de Aguirre 
 erected a small chapel, and endowed it with a fund of $1,000 
 to provide for an annual service in commemoration of the 
 apparition of the Virgin. The present chapel (erected by the 
 presbyter Juan Montufar, who also built the stone stair 
 leading to it) dates from the beginning of the 18th cent. 
 Its chief features are three quaintly carved wood tribunals, 
 a number of pictures of the Virgin, and many small paintings 
 of persons "cured” by her intervention. The small nave is 
 usually crowded with odoriferous Indians, and as the chapel 
 is poorly ventilated the air is sometimes fetid. A huge wood 
 cross stands before the door and upholds a number of the sym- 
 bols of calvary. Note the three huge iron railroad-spikes 
 nailed to the centrepiece. The view from the atrium, which 
 is paved with gravestones, is very fine. 
 
 The Panteon de Tepeyac crowns the hill, and is reached 
 by a flight of stone steps to the W. of the chapel. The ter- 
 races below form the Jardin de Tepeyac. The view from 
 the portal and from the side portico is very attractive. The 
 eye sweeps over many square miles of the Valley of Mexico, 
 to the glistening spires of the city, the mirror-like surface 
 of the lakes, and to the mountans which hem in the Valley on 
 the W., S. and S.-E. The town of Guadalupe, with its 
 squat houses and the sombre church, stretches away from the 
 base of the hill. The cemetery should be visited if only for the 
 sake of the view. 
 
 Perhaps the most imposing monument stands just within 
 the entrance, at the left. The inscription on the base advises 
 that the city council erected the shaft (in 1908) to the engineer 
 Manuel Maria Contreras in memory of the services rendered 
 by him. Some of the tombs are rented for a few years, at the 
 expiration of which the bodies are exhumed and removed else- 
 where or thrown into the common ossuary. Others are rented 
 for all time — en perpetuidad. By proceeding to the upper 
 terrace we come to the entrance of the middle path, on the 1. 
 of which is the tomb of the dictator Antonio Lopez de Santa 
 Anna f who lies here in a grave with his wife. 
 
 Tlalpan (from an Aztec vocable tlalli — earth, and pan 
 • — upon), 11 M. south of the Plaza Mayor ( Tlalpan tranvia 
 from the S. side of the plaza, at frequent intervals, fare 30c., 
 time 40-50 min.), was formerly called San Agustin de las 
 
‘106 Route 42 . 
 
 TLALPAN 
 
 Cuevas, from the many volcanic caverns in the immediate 
 neighborhood. The town is the head of the municipalidad 
 of the same name (pop. 6,000), and is the farthest, healthiest 
 and one of the most picturesque of the city’s suburban places. 
 It lies on the slope of Mt. Ajusco, amid orchards, caves and 
 springs. Many temperate-zone fruits thrive hereabout, and 
 some of the city markets draw their supplies hence. Yellow 
 chabacanos (a kind of apricot) , fine apples (manzanas) , and one 
 of the best Mexican pears, la pera Gamboa (named for the gar- 
 den in Tlalpan where it was first produced) , are plentiful in 
 season. Some of the orchards are very extensive and are 
 enclosed within high walls. Beside the fruit-trees there are fine 
 Peruvian trees, ash, silver poplars, and chestnuts {castahos) 
 in great abundance, and a riot of sweet flowers, — Spanish 
 jasmine, tuberoses, sweet-peas, marguerites, the bizarre 
 Bougainvillaea (p. 442), and whatnot. Immediately after the 
 rainy season, when the flowers show their richest blooms, the 
 spot is unusually attractive ; a sort of urban arcadia much 
 to the liking of certain of the city people, who maintain 
 country residences there. 
 
 Tlalpan was settled by the Spaniards soon after the Con- 
 quest, and in 1532 the Parochial Church (E. of the Pla$a de la 
 Constitucion) was erected. This ch., known as Iglesia de San 
 Agustin de las Cuevas , stands at the foot of a huge yard and 
 overlooks the plaza. The clock in the fagade was made in 
 Spain for the Mexico City Cathedral, whence it was moved to 
 its present location in 1830. Above it is a single bell in a very 
 quaint belfry. The small interior of the ch. is made to look 
 smaller by the many huge pillars which support the roof. It 
 contains a number of odd little chapels, tucked away in niches 
 formed by the arches. The large painting on the r. of the en- 
 trance, La Sagrada Familia , is perhaps the work of Cabrera. 
 At the r. of the Altar Mayor is a small chapel with a Chur - 
 rigueresque altar. A huge painting, The Descent from the Cross , 
 which once adorned this ch., has disappeared. 
 
 The town was the favorite residence of several of the early 
 Spanish Viceroys, and in 1793 the Viceroy Juan Vicente de 
 Giiemes Pacheco de Padilla greatly improved it with funds 
 obtained from two municipal lotteries. During the first half 
 of the 19th century it bore an evil reputation because of the 
 great gambling fete held about Whitsunday of each year. 
 Usually at this period the many pretty villas were filled with 
 the gayest and most distinguished residents of the capital, 
 and the fiesta was passed in dancing, gambling, dressing and 
 cock-fighting. The Viceroy Jose de Iturrigaray was here in a 
 cock-pit on June 8, 1S08, when he received the Madrid Gazette 
 announcing the Revolution in Spain, the intervention of 
 Napoleon Bonaparte in Spanish affairs and the abdication of 
 Charles IV in favor of Fernando VII. La Feria de Tlalpan 
 
TLALPAN 
 
 Jfi. Route . 407 
 
 is still celebrated in a small way (a movable feast), and some 
 gaming is indulged in. From 1827 to 1830 the town was the 
 official capital of the State of Mexico, and during this time a 
 mint was operated here. The new Palacio Municipal was 
 completed in 1907 at a cost of $40,000. 
 
 The immense Pena Pobre paper-mill is located here in the 
 midst of beautiful gardens. In other mills cotton and woollen 
 cloths are made. Immediately N. of the town (on the car-line 
 to M. C.) is the Pedregal — seen to best advantage from the sta- 
 tion of Huipulco. The tranvia runs out from the city across 
 vast level meadows and marshes, past lines of fine trees and 
 the new automobile road (to the right) completed in 1908. The 
 Club Campestre (to the 1. after leaving the city) and the i/os- 
 picio de Ninos are described further on. The stone shafts 
 visible in the fields as we approach Tlalpan are ventilating 
 shafts for the underground conduit through which the water 
 from the Xochimilco Springs flows into the city pipes. 
 
 The Mexico Country Club (El Club Campestre — V. PI. C, 4), 
 near Churubusco, is reached by the Tlalpan tram-cars (fre- 
 quent service) in 20 min. from the Plaza Mayor , fare 25 c. 
 Cars stop in front of the gate (left) to the spacious grounds. 
 The edifice, a handsome example of the Spanish mission style, 
 dates from 1906, and cost $350,000, including the decorations. 
 The site was formerly the old Hacienda de la Natividad. The 
 grounds are admirably laid out, and the extensive golf-links 
 in the rear of the building add to their attractiveness. The 
 artificial lake is fed by artesian water, of which there are 
 many wells. The entrance hall terminates in a spacious ball- 
 room 120 ft. long by 40 ft. wide, one end of which sometimes is 
 used as the dining-room. Tables are also set out under the 
 portales, at the rear, where one may overlook a beautiful 
 greensward. Music. Good food. There is a commodious 
 gymnasium, with baths. 
 
 The view from the roof is extensive and pleasing. The myr- 
 iad domes of the capital flash and glisten at the right, the towers 
 of Xochimilco are visible at the left. Chapultepec is seen at the 
 extreme western end of the valley, and the giant mountains 
 which guard the city are revealed in all their massiveness. 
 
 The Club building is one of the finest of its class in the 
 Republic. Card of admission from some resident member. 
 
 Churubusco (V. PI. C, 4), a straggling suburban town (S.-W. 
 of the capital) between Coyoacan and the Club Campestre , is 
 reached by the Tlalpan and the Churubusco tranvias (Churu- 
 busco y San Angel) in 20 min. from the Zocalo. Fare 25 c. Cars 
 at frequent intervals. It was a town of considerable size 
 before the Conquest, and was called by the Aztecs Huitzilipochco 
 - — place of the war-god Huitzilopochtli. The name Churubusco 
 is a Hispaniolized version of Huitzilopochtli. The Spanish 
 friars considered the spot a centre of fetish worship, and after 
 
408 Route 1+2. 
 
 CHURUBUSCO 
 
 destroying the primitive temple they erected a church to 
 Santa Maria de los Angeles and San Antonio Abad. On the 
 site of this ch., which was destroyed in 1660, the Franciscans 
 erected the present structure and dedicated it to St. Matthew, 
 May 2, 1678. The pretty little chapel of San Antonio Abad, 
 nestling against the foot of the tower, is interesting. This 
 chapel was originally entirely covered with lustered tiles, but 
 the walls have lost a large part of their brilliant covering. The 
 ch. contains a few old relics of minor interest. Facing the ex- 
 monastery is a commemorative monument to the Mexicans 
 who fell in the hotly contested battle between the troops of 
 General Pedro Maria Anaya and the Americans under Gen- 
 erals Worth, Smith and Twiggs. The inscription says, “ The 
 monument was erected in 1856 to the memory of those val- 
 iant Mexicans who in the defence of their country sacrificed 
 their lives here Aug. 20, 1847. President Ignacio Comonfort 
 and the Mexican Nation gratefully dedicate this monument 
 to their honor and glory.” The anniversary of the battle is 
 usually celebrated here by a patriotic society called La Agru - 
 pacion Patriotica — “Gratitud.” For a description of the 
 battle, one of the most important fought by the Americans 
 in the Valley of Mexico, consult any of the several war his- 
 tories noted in the bibliography at p. ccxxxix. 
 
 Coyoacan, oldest and perhaps the most conspicuous suburb 
 of the Mexican capital (V. PI. C, 4), — antedating, in fact, the 
 great city itself in European occupation, — called also Coyo - 
 huacan (from the Aztec coyotl — wolf, and huacan — place), 
 has for its symbol a wolf or coyote with its tongue hang- 
 ing out. Hereabouts, in Toltec and Aztec times, coyotes 
 abounded, and not a few are still known to exist in the 
 adjacent Pedregal. Tram-cars (from the S. side of the Zocalo, 
 fare 15 c.) run at frequent intervals. Time 20 min. 
 During the siege of Tenochtitldn in 1521-22, Cortes made 
 Coyoacan his headquarters, and from here he directed the 
 final assault that reduced the Aztec stronghold to Spanish 
 control. 
 
 It was the intention of the Great Captain to make of 
 Coyoacan the Vice-regal seat, and here he erected his palacio, 
 a building which still exists (see below). Albeit this project 
 failed, the town was long the chosen residence of the con - 
 quistadores. To this place the unfortunate Cuauhtemoc , last 
 Prince of the Aztecs, was taken when captured, and here he 
 and the Cacique of Tacuba were tortured to force them to 
 reveal Montezuma’s hidden treasure. 
 
 Cortes believed that the wily Indian Prince had deposited the imperial 
 treasure in one of the many caves in the adjacent Pedregal , and when 
 the Prince refused to reveal its hiding place his feet and hands were 
 covered with oil. he was tied to a viga (beam), and a fire was built under 
 him (vide Monument to Cuauhtemoc on the Paseo de la Reforma). Albeit 
 the Prince refused to divulge the secret, history affirms that the Span- 
 
COYOACAN 
 
 42 . Route. 409 
 
 iards did find some of the treasure in the Pedregal ; as well as the spot 
 whence the Aztecs had spirited away the great bulk of the gold and 
 jewels. 
 
 The first seat of the Spanish Government in New Spain was 
 established at Coyoacan in Aug., 1521, and the ayuntamiento 
 held meetings here until 1523. At the time of the Conquest 
 it was a place of some 6,000 inhab. and was the favorite 
 suburb of the Aztec princes. The principal occupation of the 
 people was salt making. Hard by was the great spring of 
 Acuecuezco , whence Tenochtitlan drew a portion of its potable 
 water. The town, as well as the suburb of Tacuba and the 
 hill of Chapultepec, stood then upon the margin of the wide 
 Lake Texcoco ; many of the houses were built in the water 
 upon stakes, and the canoes entered through the lower doors. 
 
 The Palacio de Cortes (now a municipal building), at the N. 
 side of the plaza, is a low, rambling structure erected by the 
 Conqueror in 1522. It was made a part of his property, and was 
 included in the grant given him under the title of the Marques 
 del Valle de Oaxaca. The graven arms of the Conquistador 
 are still discernible above the main entrance to the palacio. 
 On the right is the inscription: Casa de Hernan Cortes , El 
 Ayuntamiento en 1892. On the left, on a marble slab let into 
 the wall, is the inscription: Homenaje at ultimo Rey Azteca. 
 La sociedad Cuauhtemoc — Homage to the last Aztec King : 
 The Cuauhtemoc society. This so-called palace, which was vis- 
 ited in 1895 by the Eleventh International American Congress, 
 has a sinister history. Here Cortes received Sinsicha , the 
 King of Michoacan, when he came to the capital to place his 
 realm under the protection of the Crown of Castile. Imme- 
 diately after the Conquest, Cortes gave a banquet here to cele- 
 brate his victory. Under the influence of the strong Spanish 
 wine which had been recently received from Cadiz, he made 
 a coarse allusion to the alleged relations between his wife, 
 Doha Catalina Juarez Marcaida , and one of her Indian serv- 
 itors. Doha Catalina defended herself hotly, and after re- 
 proaching him with his amours with the Indian girls, — par- 
 ticularly Marina, who was in the palace, — she withdrew to 
 her oratorio. Cortes retired soon after, and a little later he 
 aroused the servants and informed them that his wife was 
 dead, — presumably from asthma, albeit the imprints of 
 fingers at her throat pointed to strangulation. The next day 
 the report was current that Cortes had hanged Doha Cata- 
 lina, — an imputation energetically denied by the Conqueror. 
 The unfortunate lady was hurried into a shroud and was 
 : promptly buried in the churchyard opposite the palace. 
 
 To the W. of the palacio is a small old house in which Cortes 
 is said to have lived. Near by is the ancient Capilla de la 
 Concepcion , one of the first churches erected in New Spain. 
 
 The Plaza, facing the Palacio de Cortes, is a flower-em- 
 
410 Route 1$. 
 
 COYOACAN 
 
 bowered spot, with many fine trees, banana plants and roses. 
 Many Americans dwell in Coyoacan, now one of the most 
 popular of the city’s suburbs. 
 
 Directly south of the Plaza , facing an extensive garden 
 with some fine old trees and many song birds, stand the 
 ancient Church of San Juan Bautista (known also as the 
 Parroquia) and the adjacent Dominican monastery; the latter 
 dating from 1530; the former, according to an inscription on 
 the wall, from 1583. This church, with its flat roof and 
 timbered ceiling, is a good example of the type erected 
 (early Franciscan style) in New Spain in the century of the 
 Conquest. The sturdy tower with its quaint belfry and clock 
 is a notably good example of its kind. The side gateway 
 close to the church, and immediately opposite the central 
 plaza, “is of uncommon interest as presenting one of the most 
 important examples of Aztec influence in the early architec- 
 tural ornament of New Spain. The details of this ornament 
 are strongly Aztec in sentiment, and seem largely so in form/’ 
 When restoring this gateway in 1892 the original stone carv- 
 ings were preserved. An inscription referring to its restora- 
 tion may be seen on the inner side of the arch. 
 
 We enter the churchyard through this gateway. Above 
 the W. entrance to the ch. is a half-obliterated Latin inscrip- 
 tion which declares the church to be the “House of God and 
 the Door to Heaven.” The inscription below this one relates 
 to the date of the dedication of the ch. and is barely decipher- 
 able. A number of carved ornaments in high relief adorn the 
 facade. The doors are so worm-eaten and dilapidated as to 
 suggest the belief that they date from the erection of the ch. 
 
 The interior construction confirms its great age. The long 
 central nave has a new wood floor, in sharp contrast to the 
 stone flagging and the worm-eaten ( carcomido ) benches (some 
 of them with quaint carved inscriptions) that stand beneath 
 the arches and separate the nave from the aisles. Superim- 
 posed beams form the ceiling; 16 square and severely plain 
 pillars support the roof, and 16 clerestory windows (including 
 those of the high altar) admit light to the interior. In the 
 aisles, in each square formed by the arches, are altars or 
 chapels, some of them recently decorated and none of artistic 
 value. The altar mayor fills the entire end of the long nave; 
 it is in nowise remarkable, and the pictures are mediocre. 
 The sacristy is to the right of the altar mayor , and hard by 
 is a small door which opens on to a corridor leading to the 
 refectory, a quaint cloister, and a garden filled with roses 
 and fruit trees. The gilded w T ood pulpit is new. To the r. of 
 the entrance is a large framed allegorical picture, unsigned. 
 
 We pass down the garden to the ancient stone cross sur- 
 mounting an irregular pile of volcanic stones. According to 
 tradition this cross marks the spot w T here mass w T as sung before 
 
COYOACAN 
 
 J+2. Route. 411 
 
 the ch. was completed. Another tradition relates that Dona 
 Catalina , Cortes 1 unfortunate spouse, lies buried here. Cortes 
 himself wished to be buried in this garden, and he so stipu- 
 lated in his last will and testament — a wish that was not 
 respected. 
 
 We leave the garden by the W. entrance, through an old 
 gateway tottering with age. By following the car-track west- 
 ward, along the Avenida del Benemerito Benito Juarez , we 
 soon come to the pretty Plaza de Santa Catalina (on the r.) 
 with a quaint, diminutive church with some cracked bells 
 aswing in an old campanario ; a number of unusually tall trees, 
 a rustic kiosk, and some parterres of beautiful roses. We 
 follow the street, which hence onward is called El Calle Real , 
 past many low houses and extensive gardens with high stone 
 walls, moss-covered and overhung with ripening pears and 
 quinces and with Bougainvillaea and brilliant flowers. Beyond 
 
 M.) on the r. stands the celebrated Casa de Alvarado fac- 
 ing a giant tree with stone seats around its base. A shrine 
 and a figurine adorn the entrance, an iron reja extends 
 along a portion of the upper story, and a fine garden stretches 
 away in the rear. The house, which dates from the early 
 years of the Conquest, but which has undergone a number 
 of restorations, was built by Cortes’ trusted lieutenant, Pedro 
 de Alvarado. Its present owner is Mrs. Zelia Nuttall, a cele- 
 brated archaeologist and philologist. 
 
 We continue along the Calle Real to a quaint stone bridge 
 and the time-stained Indian chapel, uninteresting, of San 
 Antonio de Padua. Stretching away to the left is the Pedregal , 
 now used as a stone quarry. Beyond this bridge the road 
 dips, passes a garden filled with giant cedars, and then slopes 
 upward toward San Angel . As we approach the town the 
 houses become more attractive, and we get glimpses of splendid 
 gardens and villas of wealthy residents. We enter the Avenida 
 de la Paz and the pretty Plazuela del Carmen. (Comp. p. 413.) 
 
 The Pedregal (Spanish, stony-place), often called Malpais 
 (bad-lands), is a basaltic lava stream some M. wide, 6 M. 
 long, and from 20 to 50 ft. deep, of great antiquity, immedi- 
 i ately S. of San Angel (V. PI. C, 5), Tlalpan and Coyoacan 
 It is supposed to have poured from the crater of Ajusco (S.-W 
 end of the Valley of Mexico), or from the more recently active 
 cone of Xitli (N.-E. of Ajusco), at some remote period beyond 
 the memory of man. Some scientists believe that it came into 
 existence long after the stupendous cataclysm which formed 
 the Valley of Mexico and gave it a geologic identity. Because 
 of the human bones and pottery (the latter of a period a trifle 
 earlier than the Conquest) found under the edge of the lava 
 flow, it is believed to have formed about a. d. 1400, albeit 
 there is no record of it in the early history of Mexico. The 
 traditions of the Toltecs, who entered the Valley at the close 
 
412 Route 42. 
 
 THE PEDREGAL 
 
 of the 7th. cent., do not mention the Pedregal , and it is easy 
 to suppose that it antedates their arrival. The now motion- 
 less stream, eloquent evidence of the once tremendous ac- 
 tivity of the Mts. around the Valley, is black, irregular and 
 forbidding ; filled with caves that were the one-time haunt of 
 brigands and marauders. The contrast between the bleak 
 lava and the pretty gardens which flank it is as sharp as that 
 between the gardens and the desert at Cairo. Narrow Indian 
 trails radiate through the petrified sea of scoria, and near the 
 middle is a picturesque Indian chapel dedicated to the Child 
 Jesus. Numerous quarries have been opened near the edge 
 of the stream, from which basalt ballast for the adjacent high- 
 ways is taken. Many grim stories of bandidos, of travellers 
 lost in the mazes of this bleak region, and of hidden treasure- 
 caves are current among the people; who likewise believe 
 that Her nan Cortes located the golden hoard which Monte- 
 zuma is supposed to have hidden here, and carried it to Spain. 
 
 A good idea of the Pedregal can be had by visiting the recent Excavaciones 
 de Copilco, in the Huerta del Carmen , San Angel, where the lava is about 20 
 ft. thick and overlays Indian tombs believed to date from the Neolithic Age 
 (a division of the Stone Age, of perhaps 10,000 years ago). — The excava- 
 tions are about ? M. from the Plaza de San Jacinto. Pass the Carmen 
 Church (p. 413), across the quaint stone bridge spanning the little brook and 
 go through the iron door set in the wall at the right. No fees. The skeletons, 
 bits of pottery, etc., are in the tunnel (left). The lava above shows that they 
 were interred at some remote period before the flow came down from Ajusco. 
 That the remains are unthinkably old is proved by the fact that almost any 
 excavation in the Valley of Mexico produces three types, the archaic, or 
 oldest ; the Toltec, or early Mexican, and, superimposed, the Aztec, or rela- 
 tively modern. These remains are unique in that no traces of architecture 
 and no hunting paraphernalia have been found near them. The people were 
 porhans simple agriculturists, and may be autochthons. For data relating 
 t<> them consult Las Excavaciones del Pedregal de San Angel y la Outturn 
 Arcaira del Valle de Mexico, by Dr. Manuel Gamio, Director of Anthropol- 
 ogy, Mexico City. 
 
 San Angel (Holy Angel), 8 miles S.-W. of Mexico City; 
 tram-cars from the Zocalo every 20 min., fare 40 cts. 1st cl., via 
 Chapul tepee, Tacubava and Mixcoac, in 50 min. by regular 
 trains; 30 min. by the rdpido at certain hrs. during the day 
 (also via Coyoacan), a popular suburban town (V. PI. B, 4) in 
 the municipalidad of Tlalpan, pop. 11,000, is celebrated for its 
 salubrious air, its handsome country homes surrounded by vast 
 huertas (orchards), and for its many fine fruits. Strawberries, 
 pears, apples, apricots, quinces and peaches grow luxuriantly 
 and reach a certain degree of perfection. Albeit the towm is 
 300ft. higher than the capital, its position on the slope of the 
 mountains which limit the S.-W. edge of the Valley of Mexico 
 gives it a superior climate. Many Mexico City people dwell 
 here because of the lower cost of living and the healthier con- 
 ditions. 
 
 The tram-cars run out between a double row of tall trees. 
 
SAN ANGEL 
 
 42 . Route . 413 
 
 through which we get fine views of Popocatepetl and Iztac - 
 cihuatl. We skirt the Park of Chapultepec, and pass by the 
 entrance. The valley between Mixcoac and San Angel is 
 covered with unusually large maguey plants which produce 
 some of the pulque (p. lxxxii) drunk in the suburbs. The grade 
 slopes upward as the line enters the town. Facing the Palacio 
 Municipal , and to the W. of it, is the double Plazuela del 
 Carmen, with parterres of flowers, some tall palms and several 
 fountains filled with the muddy water with which the place is 
 supplied. (This should be well filtered or boiled before drunk.) 
 The electric cars proceed through the town to the Plaza de 
 San Jacinto, circle it, and return to their terminus at the lower 
 end, near the local market, whence they start back to the 
 Zocalo. Certain cars proceed over a branch line to the San 
 Angel Inn, referred to at p. 416. 
 
 The Plaza contains some fine old trees, a music kiosk (mili- 
 tary band Sundays and feast-days), and several playing foun- 
 tains. On Sundays the Indians of the adjacent hills assemble 
 at a market 1 square to the N.-E., and hold an open-air tian- 
 guiz just as did their progenitors centuries ago. Impromptu 
 tents or awnings ( toldos ) are rigged up, petates (straw mats) 
 are spread upon the sidewalk, and scores of straw-hats (75 cts. 
 to $2 — bargaining necessary), crates of pottery, rolls of cloth, 
 piles of charcoal, vegetables, fruits, and Indian knick-knacks 
 are exposed for sale. Chattering Indian matrons, expostu- 
 lating dogs, tuneful burros, ringing church-bells and strident- 
 voiced venders impart anything but a peaceful air to the 
 locality. On certain feast-days, notably the Fiesta de Nuestra 
 Sehora del Carmen (the patroness of the town), held in July, 
 and that of Nuestro Senor de Contreras, in August, the plaza 
 is gayly decorated with flowers and rows of electric lamps, a 
 popular kermesse is inaugurated, society ladies from the capi- 
 tal and from San Angel preside at the gaudily trimmed booths, 
 and the town is thronged with visitors. The lower classes 
 indulge in gambling, cock-fighting, riding on merry-go- 
 rounds, and imbibing the pulque grown in the neighborhood. 
 
 At the time of the Conquest, San Angel was an Indian sub- 
 urb of Coyoacan, and was called Chimalistac. A Carmelite 
 convent (after the plan of Fray San Andres de San Miguel, 
 a lay brother of the Carmelite Order) was begun here in 1615, 
 and dedicated in 1617 to San Angelo Martir, whence the name 
 of the town which grew up around it. The church was re-dedi- 
 cated in 1633 to Santa Ana, in honor of its rich patroness, 
 Dona Ana Aguilar y Nino. It is still the finest piece of archi 
 tecture, and the most interesting sight, in the town. We enter 
 the spacious ch. yard through the gate at the right of the 
 Plazuela del Carmen, just across the street from the corner of 
 the Palacio Municipal. Three time-stained and battered tile 
 domes in the Mudejar style, each of a different color, surmount 
 
414 Route 42 . 
 
 SAN ANGEL 
 
 the church and impart an air of great antiquity to it. A flagged 
 walk leads through the illy-kept garden to the atrium and to 
 the entrance — which imparts the impression of being the back 
 door. Just within, on the right and left walls of the single 
 nave, are three curious oil paintings representing San Serapion 
 Patriarca de Antioch , San Cyrilo P. de Alexandria , and S. 
 Dionisio Papd y Confesor. In lieu of a base-board, a dado of 
 quaint old Puebla blue and white tiles runs clear around the 
 nave. 
 
 The first chapel to the left, recently renovated and dedi- 
 cated to the Virgen del Carmen , contains seven old paintings, 
 four of which are on wood, retouched in glaring colors. The 
 one above the entrance bears the date 1800. Contiguous to 
 this chapel is the finest one in the church, handsomely decor- 
 ated and dedicated to El Sen or de Contreras . It was erected 
 in 1777 (note the date set in the panel) by Hermano Juan de 
 Maria, and renovated in 1897. The fine old gilded Baroque 
 reredos are worth seeing. The first mural painting on the r. 
 as we enter represents Christ in the Garden. The next is the 
 Flagellation of the Saviour. The huge paintings on the 1. 
 are the Crucifixion and the Descent from the Cross. None are 
 signed, and while they are attributed to Murillo, they are more 
 than likely the work of Jose Rodriguez Juarez (p. 315). High 
 above the entrance is a noteworthy Ultima Cena (Last Supper), 
 unsigned, and of rich coloring. The four round paintings in 
 the spandrels of the cupola arches are of the evangelistas Saints 
 Matthew, Mark , Luke and John. The small paintings let into 
 the reredos d la Churrigueresque are also unsigned. 
 
 The central figure in the main altar is a Cristo bearing a 
 large cross with silver ornaments on the arms. A silk patch- 
 work quilt serves as an altar frontal to shield it. Beneath 
 this chapel are buried 45 American soldiers who were killed 
 during the Mexican- American war; at which time the adjoin- 
 ing monastery was used as a military hospital and barrack. 
 
 The large unsigned painting on the r. of the Altar Mayor , in 
 the main body of the church, is the Patrocinio de Sehor San 
 Jose. That to the 1. represents Saints Thomas, Cyrilo, and 
 John the Baptist {Juan Bautista). On the wall between the 
 high altar and the entrance to the Capilla del Sehor de Con - 
 reras is a fairly good panel painted in oil representing San 
 Simon Stok , generalisimo of the Order of Carmen. The com- 
 panion piece across the way is San Pedro Tomas. 
 
 Over the doorway leading into the Sacristia is a huge paint- 
 ing of the Holy Family, the work of A. Sanchez , with the 
 date 1779. Skied above the entrance within is a good San 
 Cristobal and Santa Barbara. The unusually low ceiling of 
 the sacristy is ornamented with a kind of cheap stucco. In 
 the hallway leading to the sacristy is a San Juan de la Cruz , 
 by Luis Becerra. The most interesting objects in the room 
 
SAN ANGEL 
 
 42 . Route. 415 
 
 are a series of paintings (by Cristobal de V illalpando , p. cxlix) 
 above an old inlaid vestuario or estante. The picture on the r. 
 is the Oration in the Garden ; the next is San Juan de la Cruz 
 doing penance; the companion piece is the Flagellation of 
 Christ , and, on the extreme left, the Santo Ecce Homo. All are 
 good examples of V illalpando' s work, but inferior to his splen- 
 did mural paintings in the Cathedral of Mexico. They are 
 signed, and were painted before 1714. Surmounting the estante 
 is an unusually good Cristo, in ivory, on a carved ebony cross. 
 The figure, excepting the arms, is carved from one piece. 
 
 Adjoining the sacristy is an old refectory now used as a 
 lavatory, with some good tile-work doubtless several hundred 
 years old. Beneath this room, reached through a door in the 
 left wall, is the crypt, once a magnificent vault, still lined 
 with old Spanish azulejos, and containing several tombs ; one 
 in the main floor bears the date of 1628. The monastery gar- 
 den is now in a ruinous state. A labyrinth of brick-paved halls, 
 flanked by dark, unoccupied cells, winds through the building; 
 on the walls are many dilapidated paintings, torn and discolored ; 
 one of them is of the Archbishop Palafox y Mendoza. 
 
 The church (renovated in 1857) is much venerated by the 
 Indians from Ajusco and the surrounding mountains, and on 
 Sundays it is usually crowded by a motley throng. A favorite 
 fiesta (common to all churches dedicated to Our Lady of Car- 
 men) is the bi-monthly (2d Sunday) Procesion de la Virgen. 
 A life-size, polychrome figure of the Virgin and Child is carried 
 about the nave, accompanied by a procession of candle 
 bearers, incense burners and choristers. The feet of the Virgin 
 and the hem of her robe are passionately kissed by the devo- 
 tees. The crowns of the Virgin and the Child are of very thin 
 gold; the emeralds are spurious. A much venerated image 
 of the Virgin is preserved in a small glass case. The new organ 
 dates from 1907. The old huerta (orchard), which once be- 
 longed to the convent, has been converted into building lots. 
 The old “ Secreto” or whispering-gallery, with its strange 
 acoustic properties, and the huge stone cross which dates 
 from the erection of the ch., still remain. 
 
 At the top of the Plaza de San Jacinto , visible above the 
 low houses which have encroached on the old churchyard, is 
 the weather-beaten Church of San Jacinto , with a few old 
 pictures of no value, and some gilded altars. The entrance 
 to the church is through the yard which flanks the Calle de 
 Juarez. The tourist will hardly be paid for the time spent in 
 examining this church, which is now but a simulacrum of its 
 former self. 
 
 Continuing past the yard we follow the C. de Juarez to the 
 small triangular Plaza de los Licenciados. A few hundred yards 
 further on, in the Calle Hidalgo , is the Casa Blanca , a famous 
 revolutionary landmark; now a private dwelling. The battered 
 
416 Route 42. LA PIEDAD — MIXCOAC 
 
 coat-of-arms of Spain still shows above the main entrance. 
 Note the curious old rings, set into the wall, and used as sub- 
 stitutes for hitching-posts. 
 
 About \ M. S.-W. of the plaza (reached by a tramline 
 from the lower plaza) are the Colonia de Alta Vista, and the 
 delightful San Angel Inn, the latter a favorite resort of motor- 
 ists. t The Colonia contains a number of charming bungalows 
 set among a host of lovely flowers. From the roof and balconies 
 of the Inn (comp. p. 236) extensive views of the Valley of 
 Mexico and the surrounding mountains can be had. Behind 
 the Inn is a charmingly restful garden with many splendid 
 trees and flowers. Meals served at tables in the garden or in 
 the quaint dining-room. The Alta Vista Colony (very popular) 
 is one of the several enterprises of the Mexican International 
 Trust Co. S. A. (an American company with offices in the 
 Cattejon de la Condesa, 8, Mexico City). 
 
 La Piedad (piety), a suburban town (V. PI. C, 4) 2\ M. south- 
 west of the Plaza Mayor , reached by the La Piedad tranvias 
 in 30 min. The Santuario de la Piedad, with its ex-monas- 
 tery built in 1652 by the Dominican friars (theinquisitioners), 
 contains a picture of the Virgin and the dead Christ to which 
 is attached the following legend : 
 
 In 1650 a monk of the Santo Domingo Order engaged a Roman artist 
 to paint him a picture of Mary with the dead Cristo. When the man was 
 ready to sail for Mexico the outline drawing only of the picture was com- 
 pleted. Nevertheless, the monk accepted it. While voyaging to Mexico 
 a dreadful tempest arose and threatened to engulf the ship. The mariners 
 prayed to the picture for protection, promising the Virgin that if she 
 would bring them safely to land, they would, on then* arrival at Mexico 
 City, erect a shrine to her memory. When the ship came into port the 
 monks collected alms and erected the temple of La Piedad. When the 
 package containing the canvas was opened a very beautiful picture was 
 disclosed, finished to the minutest detail. This alleged miraculous 
 painting was thereafter much venerated. In the ch. is a picture (attrib- 
 uted to Cabrera) which represents the storm that was stilled at the 
 Virgin’s command. 
 
 Mixcoac (Aztec Mixcoatl = The Milky Way) lies 1 M. 
 south of Tacubava (V. PI. C, 4) on the Mixcoac and San Angel 
 electric car line. Mixcoac car from the Zocalo at frequent 
 intervals, time 30 min., fare 40 cts. Its chief point of interest 
 is the Jar din de Propagacion (nursery) which supplies the 
 Mexico city parks and plazas with flowers. We descend at 
 the Berlin station. The gardens (established in 1902), but a 
 short walk to the right, are open all day, free. An expert hor- 
 ticulturist and about 40 assistants keep the place in order. 
 The list of flowers is limited, comprising dahlias, verbenas, 
 begonias, petunias, heliotropes, marguerites, geraniums and 
 whatnot. Eucalyptus, Ash, Lebanon-cedars, Indian-laurels, 
 Thujas and several varieties of palms are raised for the city 
 supply. Shady walks and avenues are under construction, and 
 the jardin is to be made attractive. From the elevated slope 
 one commands a splendid view of the twin volcanoes, of 
 Ajusco, and the fruit gardens of San Angel. The newautomo- 
 
TACUBAYA 
 
 42. Route. 417 
 
 bile road from the City to San Angel passes in front of the 
 gardens. The old San Pedro Coif Links are hard by. 
 
 One half mile east of Mixcoac is La Castaneda , with a popu- 
 lar tivoli, much frequented in summer. Many of the Mexico 
 City people have homes ( casas de recreo ) in Mixcoac. 
 
 Tacubaya (V. PI. C, 3), one of the most attractive, populous 
 (50,000 inhab.) and fashionable of the capital’s suburban 
 towns, lies along the slope of the Sierra de las Cruces , and is 
 reached by the Tacubaya, Mixcoac and San Angel electric 
 cars (fare 10 cts., distance 4 M., time 20 min.), which leave the 
 Zocalo at frequent intervals. The town is about 1 M. south of 
 Chapultepec, and the fine calzada which passes the castle gate 
 connects it with the Paseo de la Reforma. The Tacubaya cars 
 stop at the castle gate going and returning. 
 
 The old Aztec settlement of Atlacuihuayan (named for a 
 kind of Aztec sling — atlatli), founded about 1270, occupied 
 the site of the present town. After the Conquest the region 
 became the property of Cortes and was included in his vast 
 estates. In 1529 the Dominicans established a monastery at 
 the base of the hill, now surmounted by the Observatorio As - 
 tronomico Nacional , and in due course the ecclesiastical pro- 
 perty became the centre of a thriving Spanish settlement. 
 In 1607 Felipe III commanded that Mex. City be moved to 
 Tacubaya, but the order was rescinded when the city council 
 showed him that the Crown would have to disburse $20,000,- 
 000 to indemnify property owners in the old Aztec capital. 
 The project was revived during the great inundation of Mex. 
 City in 1629, but it met with strong opposition and was shelved. 
 
 El Arzobispado (residence of the Archbishop) was trans- 
 ferred to Tacubaya in 1737. Two years later the building now 
 occupied by the National Astronomical Observatory was 
 erected by order of the Viceroy (also Archbishop) Juan An- 
 tonio de Vizarron y Eguiarreta and dedicated as the Arzobis- 
 pado. It was the home of the National Military College (now 
 at Chapultepec) from 1863 to 1883. The building (finely 
 equipped with modern appliances and a library of 7,000 vol- 
 umes) is one of the most conspicuous features in the landscape, 
 and commands an extensive view — finer, even, than that 
 from Chapultepec, since the castle itself lies within the range 
 of vision. The main salon is decorated with portraits of great 
 astronomers and with handsome frescoes. The earthquake 
 registering instruments are the best of their kind. 
 
 Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna 11 The Dictator,” and President 
 Ignacio Comonfort lived in Tacubaya, and here, in 1841, the 
 venomous and extraordinarily active Santa Anna planned 
 one of his numerous revolutions. It was the scene (April 11, 
 1859) of a sanguinary struggle between the Liberals, under 
 Degollado, and the Conservatives, led by General Leonardo 
 Marquez, known as the “ Tiger of Tacubaya,” and whose career 
 
418 Route 42 . 
 
 POPOTLA 
 
 of cruelty was almost unexampled. The Liberals (fighting 
 for enlightenment and freedom from the thraldom of the 
 church) were defeated, and many of them executed : but in so 
 brutal a manner that the place was thereafter called La 
 Ciudad de los Martires — city of the martyrs. The anniversary 
 of this battle is celebrated with great solemnity. Tacubaya was 
 formerly the chosen residence of the wealth and aristocracy 
 of the capital. Many palatial country houses still stand, sur- 
 rounded by great parks and shut in by high stone walls. 
 
 Popotla (Aztec, vopotl = broom-corn, and tlan — place, 
 called Popotlan by the Indian inhabitants), a suburb of Tacuba 
 (V. PI. C, 3) midway between Mex. City (2J M.) and Azca- 
 potzalco, reached in 12 min. by the electric cars of the Azca- 
 potzalco line from the Zocalo (frequent intervals, fare 12 c.), 
 is chiefly celebrated as the home of the venerable Tree of 
 the Dismal Night — arbol de la noche triste , intimately asso- 
 ciated with the history of the Conquest. This giant Ahuehuete, 
 or Sabino (Taxodium distichum) belongs to the family of coni- 
 fers, and is known in the U. S. A. as the deciduous Amer. cy- 
 press; and locally as the Mex. cypress. The wood of this 
 species is remarkable for durability; the branches were an- 
 ciently used at funerals and to adorn tombs. The tree is an 
 emblem of mourning and sadness. In the even climate of the 
 Mex. highlands it attains enormous size and great age — as is 
 evidenced by the trees of the same species in the forest of 
 Chapultepec (p. 384). 
 
 This ancient “tree of the sad night ” — perchance the only 
 living witness of the horrors of the Spanish invasion and Con- 
 quest — is now bowed beneath the weight of centuries, and 
 is but a simulacrum of its former self. Relicomaniacs have 
 made such serious inroads upon it, that it is now carefully 
 watched, and is protected from relic-hunters by an iron railing 
 (said to have been forged from shackles, chains and instruments 
 of torture used by the inquisition in Mexico) within which no 
 one is allowed. Those who attempt to touch or deface the tree 
 are imprisoned and fined. It was seriously injured in 1872 
 by fanatical Indians who attempted to burn it. Recently, 
 skilled horticulturists removed all the dead matter from the 
 heart of the tree, thoroughly scraped the living wood and 
 filled the openings with cement, in an effort to prolong its life. 
 Pieces of this tree are preserved in the Museo National, at 
 Mex. City, and in the Museo Naval at Madrid. Hernan Cortes 
 is said to have sat beneath this tree and wept when he saw his 
 sadly reduced army file past after the sanguinary and disas- 
 trous retreat from Tenochtitlan July 2, 1520. 
 
 Hard by the tree is the old Church of San Esteban , erected 
 (in the 16th cent.) to commemorate the Sad Night. 
 
 Tacuba or Tlacdpan (Aztec =tlacotl , flower-pot, and pan — 
 place), 3J M. north-west of Mex. City and the seat of a muni- 
 
TACUBA 
 
 J+2. Route. 419 
 
 cipality, is reached by the Tacuba electric cars from the Zocalo 
 (at frequent intervals); time, 12 min., fare 12 c. 
 
 The town was founded by Tlacomanatzin, Cacique of the 
 Tepaneca Indians , long before the Spanish Invasion, and it 
 was admitted into the Aztec Confederate States in 1430. 
 Between this period and 1525 it was ruled over by the Aztec 
 Kings Totoquinauhtzin /, Chimalpopoca , Totoquinauhtzin II 
 and T etlepanquetzaltzin , — the latter renowned as the last 
 prince of the line, and as the one cruelly tortured, along 
 with Guatemotzin , in 1521, by the soldiers of Cortes. When 
 Cortes besieged Tenochtitlan the Tacubans joined forces with 
 the Aztecs, and fought heroically in defence of the city. Ta- 
 cuba was occupied by the Spaniards under Alvarado in May, 
 1521, and the handsome and flourishing town was partly 
 destroyed. A great number of the inhabitants perished. The 
 place never regained its prestige. In 1530 some Aztec converts 
 built a church here, the walls and arches of which are incor- 
 porated in the present Parroquta , erected by the Franciscan 
 Friars, and dedicated to St. Gabriel. The adjoining monastery 
 was constructed coincidently with the present church. The 
 cloister contains a number of Aztec relics (taken from the 
 primitive church) , among which are some carved stone cylin- 
 ders supposed to have served as chronological records of the 
 Aztec Pabas (priests) . 
 
 A Passion Play characterized by superstition, quasi-solem- 
 nity, much noise and tawdry display, is enacted here by the 
 Indians during Holy Week. Hordes of the Valley Indians 
 assemble to take part in the fiesta , and pickpockets, insects 
 of the genus Pulex, and microbes abound. The ceremony is 
 interesting to foreign visitors merely as a relic of the idolatrous 
 practices in vogue before the enactment of the famous Re- 
 form Laws. The neighborhood abounds in stone relics of the 
 Aztec occupation. 
 
 Azcapotzalco (Aztec, azcaputzalli — ant-hill, or a spot 
 swarming with people), in the prefecture of Guadalupe-Hi- 
 dalgo, municipalidad of Azcapotzalco, 5 M. from Mexico City 
 (V. PI. B, 2), is reached by several daily trains on the National 
 Rlys. of Mex., time 20 min., fare 21 cts. (1st cl.), and by the 
 Azcapotzalco electric car line from the Plaza Mayor (M. C.) at 
 frequent intervals, fare 1st cl. 20 c. The town stands in the 
 midst of fine groves of giant Ahuehuetes (cypress trees), and 
 the ancient Indian name is symbolized by a crude figure 
 (supposed to represent an ant-hill) on that side of the paro- 
 chial church tower which faces the plaza. 
 
 The place is believed to have been founded in the 12th cent, 
 by Xolotl , surnamed the Great; a powerful cacique of the 
 Chichimecs or Tepaneca Indians. The Azcapotzalco Indians 
 conquered the town in 1299, but were driven out (1428) by 
 the Aztecs under the leadership of a cruel and dreaded chief- 
 
420 Route J$. 
 
 AZCAPOTZALCO 
 
 tain, Maxtla. In the years following it became renowned as 
 the centre of a great slave trade, and also for its skilled artisans 
 in the precious metals. The present population (6,000) repre- 
 sents but a tithe of the former greatness of the town. With 
 the advent of the Spaniards its prestige vanished. They de- 
 stroyed a great teocalli which occupied a commanding site in 
 the centre of the Indian city, and permitted the Dominican 
 friars to erect (1565) their first church and monastery on the 
 site. The church was 'demolished later to make way for the 
 present Parroquia, completed and dedicated Oct. 8, 1702. A 
 great olive garden surrounded the church at one time, and the 
 high wall (very picturesque) was formerly surmounted by 
 life-size figures of certain saints of the Dominican Order. 
 These, along with much of the wall, were demolished Aug. 
 19, 1821, during a fierce encounter (known as the battle of 
 Azcapotzalco) between the Mexican troops under General Bus- 
 tamante and the Royalist (Spanish) soldiers. In the monas- 
 tery cloister (open all day, no fees) are several paintings, 
 notable among them a Santa Ana, by N. J. Rodriguez, and 
 a Last Supper and The Taking of Christ, by Juan Correa. 
 A number of unsigned and equally uninteresting canvases 
 hang on the walls. 
 
 The Plaza Principal, with its pretty garden, occupies the site 
 of the pleasure grounds which surrounded the palace of the 
 Tepanec Princes. The street cars from Mexico City stop here. 
 
 South of the railway station (a few minutes’ walk) is the 
 old teocalli of the Aztec rulers. The line cuts across the ruins 
 which are now but a confused mass of mortar and stone. 
 North of the station (15 minutes’ walk) is the Parque de Ahue- 
 huetes, of San Juan Tilihuac: formerly an Aztec pleasure- 
 ground, and now used for horse-races, picnics and as a prome- 
 nade. The most notable feature is a group of six ahuehuetes 
 of colossal proportions, with interlocked branches, and gnarled 
 roots which serve as seats. According to an Indian tradition 
 a fine spring of crystal water once bubbled up among these 
 roots. It was the favorite resort of the spirit of Malinche , a 
 siren who enticed thirsty wayfarers to drink of the waters of 
 the spring, with the result that they at once disappeared never 
 to return. Her siren song is yet heard — by the credulous — 
 at dawn and twilight, and no Indian will then pass the 
 spring. Whosoever enters the grove and places his ear close to 
 the ground will hear (it is said) the spring murmuring and 
 singing far below, and this sound possesses a sort of enchant- 
 ment for the listener and presages his early demise! 
 
 The malign spirit of Malinche (or Marina) — eternally 
 restless for having leagued herself with the Spaniards — is 
 supposed to also haunt the waters of Zancopinca pond, on the 
 Hacienda de San Cristobal Azpetia (about one mile E. of the 
 monastery and reached by a road which runs past it). A big 
 
MEXICO CITY TO PACHUCA 4$. Rte . 421 
 
 spring formerly fed this pond and supplied the Aztecs with 
 water through the Tlaltelolco aqueduct. The superstitious 
 Indians believe that many supernatural happenings may be 
 witnessed at this pond. The beguiling spirit of Malinche is 
 supposed to emerge at midday (her mornings are passed at 
 the Spring of Chapultepec, where she is a sweet and benign 
 goddess), and her bewitching song — one of infinite allurement 
 — causes men to cast themselves into the waters, whence 
 they never return. The neighboring Indians believe also that 
 her spirit guards the treasures of Guatemotzin which, when the 
 water is clear, may be seen glistening at the bottom of the 
 pond! When one suddenly and mysteriously disappears from 
 this vicinity the Indians say that he or she “ has drunk of the 
 waters of the Ahuehuete spring, or has seen Malinche at the 
 pond.” An annual fair is held here (Sept.) with bull-fights, 
 horse-races, round-ups (semi-wild cattle and vaqueros — cow- 
 boys) , and other features. A sort of crude Passion Play is 
 also enacted here on Good Friday. 
 
 43. From Mexico City to Pachuca, via the Ferro- 
 carriles Nacionales de Mexico, The Mexican, and 
 The Hidalgo and Northeastern Railroads. 
 
 61 M. Two through trains daily in 2 hrs. (fare, see p. xxxi) vi& the F. 
 C. Nacional (from the Buena Vista station, p. 232), which has the shortest 
 line, and which makes the trip without change of cars. To reach Pachuca 
 over The Mexican Railway (station at Buena Vista), we proceed over 
 the main line (Rte. 44, p. 424) to Ometusco, thence over the RamoX de 
 Pachuca (from M. C. 70 M. in 4 hrs.). A third line, Compania del Fer- 
 rocarril Hidalgo y Nordeste (operated by the National Railways of 
 Mexico, station at Peralvillo, p. 233), runs (several) trains to Tepa and to 
 Irolo with a change of cars (69 M. in 3£ hrs.). An attractive feature of 
 this line — which traverses the fertile valley of Tulancingo — is the cele- 
 brated Zempoalla aqueduct, one of the three most notable in the Republic. 
 
 Mexico City, see p. 233. — The trains of the National 
 Rlys. proceed N. to Lecheria (Rte. 31, p. 137), then follow the 
 Ramal toward the N.-E. through a pretty country highly 
 cultivated. Some of the wide valleys, dotted with haciendas 
 (where many sheep are raised), are very attractive. The coun- 
 try was once densely populated. Many churches are visible 
 in the distance. The plains soon break up into hills covered 
 with cacti in which the aloe, the nopal and the candelabra 
 species are the most prominent. The eye travels over many 
 miles of country devoted to the production of pulque. 
 
 The trains of The Mexican Rly. proceed E. over the main 
 line (Rte. 44, p. 424) to Ometusco. The Pachuca. train stands on a 
 siding at the same station. The environing country, including 
 the rounded hill-tops, is under cultivation, and spiky maguey 
 plants are omnipresent features of the landscape. During the 
 dry season the highways are ankle deep in dust. The branch 
 
422 Route 43. 
 
 PACHUCA 
 
 line curves toward the N. and penetrates a hilly country 
 dotted with cacti and pepper-trees. The hills are jejune and 
 impregnated with alkali. At Zempoalla a diligencia conveys 
 passengers to the (1 M.) town for 25 c. 
 
 Pachuca. — Arrival. The Rly. Station is about 1 M. from the centre of 
 the town — a long, dusty walk. Cabs 25 c. Tranvias 5 c. 
 
 Hotels. Gran Hotel Grenfell Antigua Casa de Diligencias, on the W. side 
 of the Plaza de la Independent. S2.50-S3 Am. PI. Hotel Central (on the 
 car line) near the Teatro. S2-S2.50 Am. PI. 
 
 Pachuca (8,000 ft.), capital of the State of Hidalgo, with a 
 population of 40,000, is one of the greatest, as well as one of 
 the oldest, mining centres in the Republic. One of the first 
 Spanish settlements in New Spain was established here. Fol- 
 lowing the discovery of the first mine by the Spaniards in 
 1534, the output of mineral became enormous. The old Trini- 
 dad mine alone produced silver to the value of forty millions 
 of pesos in ten years. Hundreds of mines honeycomb the hills 
 which encircle three sides of the tow T n, on the edge 6f which 
 there are several reduction plants for the amalgamation of the 
 silver ores. The place has all the aspect of a mining camp. It 
 lies at the head of a wide gulch, and the hills w r hich slope 
 sharply upward from the ends of the streets (some of which 
 are called cafiones or gulches) form a sort of pipe through 
 which there almost continuously draws a thin, disagreeable 
 wind — un airecillo muy molesto. The hillsides are perforated 
 by tunnels around which lie terraces of gray tailings. The 
 white stone shafts, which are conspicuous features of the hills, 
 delimn mining claims. One of the largest reduction plants 
 ( haciendas de beneficio) stands at the base of the hill near the 
 top of the town. In some of the older plants the “patio pro- 
 cess,” invented here in 1557 by Bartolome de Medina , is still 
 employed : albeit this simple method for amalgamating the 
 Mexican silver ores was of transcendental importance to the 
 country, and was widely used for nearly four centuries after 
 its discovery, it is now being replaced by the new cyaniding 
 process, which is more efficient and economical for extracting 
 silver from dry or silicious ores. 
 
 The very irregularity of the narrow, winding streets imparts 
 a picturesqueness which is heightened by certain quaint old 
 houses — relics of the early Colonial times. Prominent 
 among these edifices is the 
 
 Caja, in the l a Calle las Cajas , a bizarre, fortress-like structure erected 
 in 1670 (by Don Sebastian de Toledo, Marques de Mancera) as a treasury 
 for the Royal tribute. The Casas Coloradas (red houses), built near the 
 close of the 18th cent, by the Conde de Regia, are now used as govern- 
 ment offices and are uninteresting. The Church of San Francisco (at the 
 lower end of the town) was erected in 1596. The old conventual building 
 adjacent is now a government barrack. 
 
 The uninteresting Church of La A suncion de la Virgen, in the Plaza de 
 la Constitucion , dates from the 17th cent. Hard by, almost hidden by 
 
REAL DEL MONTE 43. Route. 423 
 
 little market stalls, is an imposing marble statue (erected in 1888) to 
 Miguel Hidalgo. 
 
 The Tedtro Bartolome de Medina , on the main street, was erected in 
 1893 to the memory of the man who invented the “patio process.” The 
 fine Banco de Hidalgo, overlooking the Plaza de la Independencia, is 
 modern. 
 
 The Environs of Pachuca are more interesting than the town itself. 
 Beyond the hills is the celebrated Xixi Mt., at the foot of which are 
 curiously shaped rocks of immense size, the Penas Cargadas, or 
 Loaded Rocks. On the Hacienda de Regia , there is a huge basaltic forma- 
 tion spoken of as the Giant's Causeway of America. Cliffs over 150 ft. 
 high enclose a wide and deep basin known as M etlapiles: the walls are 
 immense basaltic columns, split by a gorge through which rushes a great 
 volume of water that tumbles into the basin. “In one place the great 
 columns are crowded out, as though by the superincumbent weight of 
 the earth, or as if the giant that fashioned them had bent them outward 
 from the perpendicular face-line of the cliff when in a state of fusion. 
 The bed of the river that flows down toward the barranca is paved with 
 hexagonal and pentagonal blocks.” Visible in the distance, in the same 
 Mt. range, are the noteworthy Organos de Actopan, distinguishing fea- 
 tures of the Sierra de Pachuca — in which Pachuca lies. 
 
 The Real del Monte Mine, 6 M. distant, is said to be one of the 
 most extensive mining properties of the world. Several mines form a 
 group which, since 1905, have been operated by an American company. 
 The original owner, Pedro Jose Romero de Terreros, a muleteer, bought 
 the main mine (in 1739) for $60,000. Soon thereafter it came into 
 bonanza, and before 1781 it had yielded nearly fifteen millions of pesos. 
 Terreros gained international renown by his extravagances. He loaned 
 the King of Spain a million pesos, and presented him with several war- 
 ships fully equipped, for which he received a patent of nobility and 
 became the Conde de Santa Maria de Regia (p. 295). Near the close of the 
 century a subterranean river burst into the mine, flooding and ruining 
 it. Alexander Von Humboldt visited it in 1803, and his report of the 
 almost fabulous wealth, drowned out by the waters, gave rise in Eng- 
 land to a mining craze which for wild speculation almost equalled the 
 Mississippi Bubble. In 1824 there was formed in London the famous 
 Real del Monte Company, and a Captain Vetch, of the Royal Engineers, 
 and 350 Cornish miners and their families were sent out along with three 
 ship-loads of machinery which was laboriously dragged up the moun- 
 tains from Vera Cruz. Albeit the mines were in a ruinous state when the 
 new company took them over in July, 1824, the shares rose rapidly in 
 value, and during the ensuing year par value shares of £100 sold in the 
 open market for £16,000. The marked optimism of the usually prudent 
 London bankers gave rise to extravagance and mismanagement at the 
 mines. In 25 years four million sterling had been spent for a gross return 
 of three millions, and in Oct., 1848, the company went into liquidation. 
 In 1850 a local company bought the property for $130,000, and imme- 
 diately thereafter the great Rosario bonanza was uncovered. Within a 
 few years over eighty millions of pesos were extracted. The present 
 owners are said to have paid $4,000,000 for the property. 
 
 Hidalgo State (an Estado del Centro), with a pop. of 605,000 and an 
 area of 23,101 sqr. kilom., is one of the most mountainous of the Mex. 
 states, and is bounded on the N. by San Luis Potosi and Vera Cruz, 
 on the E. by Puebla, on the S. by Mexico and Tlaxcala, and on the W. 
 bv Queretaro. It is named in honor of the revolutionary patriot Miguel 
 Hidalgo y Costilla. The Tulancingo, Zimapan, Jacala, Zacuatilpdm, 
 Hueyutla and Pachuca ranges of the Sierra Madre system cross the state: 
 the highest peaks are Tapelilldn, Creston, Cerro Alto, Cresta de Gallo, 
 Los Organos (see below), and El Cerro de Navaja, — the latter over 10,000 
 ft. This Mt. is near the great barranca of Izaila, celebrated as the spot 
 whence the Aztecs obtained the brilliant black obsidian (iztli) out of 
 which they fashioned knives, and many minor cutting instruments, as 
 sharp as steel. The cerro contains an apparently inexhaustible supply 
 of this volcanic glass. There are several curious caves in the vicinity. 
 Los Organos de Actopan (called also Los Frailes — the friars) are of 
 
424 Route 43a. HIDALGO STATE 
 
 singular formation and resemble the huge pipes of an organ — hence 
 their name. A fine stained glass window representing these odd peaks 
 may be seen in the National Geological Institute (p. 341) at Mexico City. 
 On the highway between Xochicoatldn and Malila one crosses the Pena 
 Partida , a fine natural barranca caused by the separation of two gigantic 
 hills in the neighborhood. Near the small Pueblo of Zempoalla (on the 
 F. C. Hidalgo y Nordeste, p. 421) is a magnificent old aqueduct (one of the 
 three most celebrated in the Republic), the wrnrk of the Franciscan Friar 
 Francisco Tembleque. The 8. and W. regions of the state are flat. The 
 Valley of Tulancingo — one of great beauty — possesses many cotton mills. 
 
 The climate is cold in the highlands and temperate on the plains. 
 Splendid fruits thrive in the latter region, and the chief agricultural 
 products are rice (and many other cereals), ixtli (fibre), pulque (p. lxxxii), 
 ja’.ap , sarsaparilla, green peppers (\ztec= chilli), coffee, tobacco, and a 
 wealth of minor products. In the tierra caliente, or lowlands, the forests 
 are thronged with fine woods, notably mahogany, white and red cedar, 
 rosewood, walnut, ebony, and whatnot. Splendid pine forests clothe the 
 slopes of some of the hills in the highlands, and myrtle and a host of 
 shrubs and trees are features of the temperate zone. The state is one 
 of the most highly mineralized in the Repub.; gold, silver, copper, mer- 
 cury, iron, lead, zinc, antimony, manganese and plumbago are found, 
 as well as sulphur, jasper, marble, red -ochre, kaolin, lithographic-stone, 
 opals and so on. Statistics credit the state with an annual production 
 of metals valued at six millions of pesos. About 120 mines are in opera- 
 tion, beside 50 reduction works for the treatment of the finer metals, and 
 several for smelting iron ore. 
 
 43a. From Mexico City to Puebla. 
 
 208 K. Ferrocarril Interoceanico. Two trains daily in about 
 5 hrs. (fare, see p. xxxi) over the Jalapa Division. The line traverses one 
 of the greatest pulque-producing (p. lxxxii) regions in the Repub., and 
 vast quantities of the bianco neutli are brought into the city each morn- 
 ing from the huge haciendas which lie contiguous to the line. 
 
 The trains start from the San Lazaro Station (see p. 233 and 
 PI. J, 4) and pass out through the tawdry E. quarter of the 
 city. The huge penitenciaria (p. 368) is visible on the 1., as is 
 also the broad Lake T excoco. The town of (39 K.) T excoco is 
 mentioned at p. 499. The scenery between the city and 90 K. 
 Irolo is much like that of Rte. 44, below. Beyond Irolo the line 
 curves broadly toward the S. and traverses many miles of 
 fertile land devoted exclusively to wide magueyales , or pulque- 
 haciendas. At 100 K. San Lorenzo , a typical hacienda is seen; 
 the cluster of buildings enclosed within mediaeval-looking 
 walls resembles a fortress. The line climbs into the hills and 
 describes many sweeping curves. The splendid views of Po- 
 pocatepetl (p. 463) and Iztaccihuatl (p. 464) on the 1. are in- 
 spiring. As we near Puebla the rly. enters a fine farming coun- 
 try where maize, wheat and alfalfa are the staples. The old 
 hiil-top Church of Cholula (p. 518) is descried on the r. 
 
 The region bears a primitive aspect, as if the progress now so noticeable 
 in other sections of the Republic had failed to influence it. But this does 
 not detract from its picturesqueness, which is that of early Indian Mexico, 
 wi ' h its pilgrimages and miracles and its priestly rites and observances. The 
 walled haciendas suggest sieges and troublous days and feudalism. It is one 
 of the oldest sections of Mexico, for the nearby Pyramid of Cholula was 
 buib perhaps about the opening years of the Christian era, fifteen centuries 
 or more before Columbus or his following horde of conquistadores came into 
 the world. 208 K. Puebla, see p. 508. 
 
SAN JUAN TEOTIHUACAN U- Rte. 425 
 
 r 44. From Mexico City via the Pyramids of San 
 Juan Teotihuacan and Tlaxcala to Puebla. 
 
 MEXICAN RAILROAD (FERROCARRIL MEXICANO) AND 
 EL FERROCARRIL DE TLAXCALA. 
 
 To the (45 Kiloms.) Pyramids of San Juan Teotihuacan; several trains 
 daily in about 1 hour. Popular Excursions Sundays (and other times; for 
 fares, etc., see the newspapers and the rly. folders). Trains leave Mexico 
 City (from the Buena Vista station) in the A. m. and return in p. m., allow- 
 ing ample time for a detailed inspection of the Ruins. — To (186 K. in 5-6 
 hrs.) Puebla. (PI. E, 3.) Cars for Puebla leave the main line at Apizaco 
 Junction. — At the San Juan Teotihuacan station (and town) tram-cars 
 meet trains and carry passengers to (l£ M., in about 8 min.) The Ruins. 
 Autos make the trip in about 5 min. Refreshments obtainable at the Hotel 
 de las Piramides, about i M. at the r. of the pyramids (as we approach 
 them). Near the hotel are some (uninteresting) grottoes ( grutas ). 
 
 Mexico City, see p. 233. Leaving the Buena Vista Station 
 ( estacion de Buena Vista) we pass out through the N.-E. quar- 
 ter of the capital toward Guadalupe , thence skirt the shore 
 of Lake Texcoco (r.) . The stations between Mex. City and 
 Apizaco are mentioned at p. 497. Rte. 52. 
 
 28 M. San Juan Teotihuacan (Aztec: teteo — plural of teotl 
 — gods; hua, having; can , place — place where the gods reside 
 or come) a sacrosanct place of transcendental importance in 
 the theogony and cosmogony of the ancient Nahoas. 
 
 On the way to the Pyramid Of the Sun (which should be ascended for the 
 sake of the view), the traveller should not fail to inspect the Museo Regional 
 (described hereinafter) where guidebooks, maps, photographs, postcards, 
 and sometimes souvenirs are on sale at reasonable prices. The ‘antiques’ 
 
 [ offered for sale near the ruins are very apt to be spurious. Before leaving 
 the neighborhood one should see the Ciudadela, or Citadel. — Students of 
 archaeology, ethnography and ecclesiology may, by enlisting the sympa- 
 thetic interest of Dr. Manuel Gamio , the erudite Director of Anthropology 
 in the department of that name, in the Secretaria de Agricultura y Fomento , 
 at Mexico City (office in the Calle Filomeno Mata, 4) secure a letter of in- 
 troduction to the official in charge of the ruins, and thereby spend the day to 
 better advantage. 
 
 “Historians concur in the belief that in the remote and 
 mighty past a great peregrinating tribe, guided, possibly, by 
 the lure of wealth, or land or liberty, came to Mexico, bringing 
 with them the knowledge of a symbolic art reflecting that 
 which still exists on the banks of Father Nile. The mysterious 
 route, undoubtedly followed for some set purpose, is marked 
 on the American continent by colossal monuments that even 
 the destructive hand of time seems not to violate.” These 
 unknown people left behind them, from Yucatan to Sonora 
 and thence into Arizona and Colorado (U. S. A.), ruins so 
 stupendous that the traveller regards them in silence and awe. 
 Palenque (p. 567) with its temples and palaces, Chichen-Itza 
 (p. 581) and Uxmal (p. 580) with their Buddha-like shrines 
 Cholula (p. 518) and San Juan Teotihuacan with their gigantic 
 mounds, inspire the same sentiment of admiration and respect. 
 When the Spaniards invaded Mexico four centuries ago the 
 
426 Rte. U- SAN JUAN TEOTIHUACAN 
 
 ruined cities of Mexico were practically in the same condition 
 as they are to-day. To Cortes and his amazed followers, they 
 were as much a mystery as they proved to the many savants 
 who followed them. 
 
 The Tzacualli, or Sacred Pyramids of San Juan Teotihuacan, known 
 
 also as the Pyramids of the Sun and Moon, 28 M. N.-E. of the Mexican 
 capital, are considered the two largest artificial mounds in America. Seen 
 from the railway they appear squat and nondescript; it is only when one 
 stands near them and views them from the plain from which they rise that 
 their true proportions are apparent. Their origin is buried in the remote 
 past, and the traditions referring to them throw but scant light on their 
 history or that of the people who erected them. That they antedate the 
 Christian era is proved by the fact that the peculiar style of architecture 
 shows no Maya characteristics, or that of any peoples who succeeded them, 
 and the Mayas flourished in the opening year of our era. Certain Indian 
 fables date their erection from the epoch of the gods; more concise histo- 
 rians believe they are due to some tribe which existed long before the ear- 
 liest period of Nahoa supremacy. 
 
 Teotihuacan shows two distinct periods of development, one city superim- 
 posed on another — a characteristic of most of the ruins in the Valley of 
 Mexico. This can be observed in almost every structure in the Teotihuacan 
 Valley, particularly in the small ruins known as El Subeterraneo, and in the 
 Citadel. Who the people were no man knows. Both cities were destroyed 
 in a manner unknown to history, and their inhabitants disappeared as 
 silently and as mysteriously as they had come. The name Teotihuacan is 
 one of the earliest preserved in Nahoa annals, and there can be little doubt 
 that the pyramids are older than those of Cholula (p. 518), or that they were 
 erected before what is regarded as the Toltec Era in Anahuac. 
 
 That a pyramid-erecting people existed in Mexico at some remote period 
 in the dim twilight of time is shown by those of Papantla (p. 507), Cholula 
 (p. 518), and other places in the Republic. These, with Teotihuacan , in- 
 stinctively remind one of the Gizeh group of pyramids, 70 of which survive 
 between Abu Rodsh and Meidoum. While none of those in Mexico are as 
 large as the Great Pyramid of Cheops (or Pharaoh Khufu), which is 451 
 ft. high by 755 ft. along the side, at the base, both are artificial; that of 
 Egypt constructed of solid masonry blocks, and that of the Sun of adobe 
 blocks. 
 
 An extensive city at one time spread away from the base of the pyramids, 
 as traces exist over an extension of about 4 M. long by 2 M. broad. An area 
 comprising about 494 acres at present constitutes the archseological zone. 
 According to Dr. Gamio, this city was strikingly symmetrical, with fine 
 buildings whose walls carried polychromatic frescoes representing mytho- 
 logical characters and depicting scenes in the life of the ancient peoples. 
 Specimens of the sculpture work in diorite, jade, nephrite, obsidian, and 
 clay, and personal adornments consisting of jewelry, weapons, etc. are now 
 preserved in the local museum. 
 
 The Regional Museum ( museo regional), open free to 4 p. m., faces a 
 pretty little park flanking the road leading to the Pyramid of the Sun. 
 Just inside the entrance is a chalk model, in relief, of the Zona Arqueologica 
 de Teotihuacan. All the important places roundabout are carefully num- 
 bered. Beside many highly interesting relics exhumed in the neighborhood, 
 the museo contains a number of ecclesiological objects, chiefly from the 
 Acolman district, described hereinafter. Note the stone dogs called ciriales, 
 or candle-holders, supposed to have been taken from the old Church at 
 Acolman. They are twin brothers of the Dog of Fo (a Chinese modification 
 of Bod — Buddha — ), the mythological lions which are so frequently seen 
 in front of temples, shrines, graves, etc. in China. Japan (where they are 
 called Shishi) and Korea (where they are officially known as Koma-inu « 
 or Korean dogs). It would be interesting to know if they are pre-Iberian. 
 — The nephrite, and obsidian masks, the jadeite articles, and the many 
 little personal adornments are all worth looking at. 
 
 The Pyramid of the Sun ( Tonatiuh Itzcuatl ), a truncated artificial mound 
 216 ft. high by about 721 and 761 ft. at the base, with an irregular, narrow- 
 ing summit about 59 ft. from N. to S. and 105 ft. from E. to W. (measure- 
 
PYRAMIDS OF SAN JUAN TEOTIHUACAN 426 a 
 
 ments approximate only, as government work of excavation and restoration 
 will alter them) occupies what is thought to be the geographical centre of 
 the ancient city. It is divided in 5 pyramidal sections, or terraces, which 
 narrow as they ascend. 
 
 The original form is supposed to have been temple-shaped, and a splen- 
 didly barbaric temple containing a gigantic statue of the Sun, made of a 
 single block of porphyry, adorned with a heavy breastplate of gold and nu- 
 merous minor embellishments, is thought to have crowned the summit. 
 Blocks of basalt and trachitic rock cover the sharply sloping sides. The 
 projecting bits of porous amygdaloid which dot the slopes are believed to 
 have held the outer coating of the pyramid in shape. Immense buttresses 
 help to support the structure, and between two of these, on the south side, 
 a small tunnel has been driven to the centre. 
 
 A series of unusually wide steps lead to the top from the western side; 
 they are not as steep or as formidable as they appear when looked at from 
 the base. A good plan, while climbing them, is not to look behind, but to 
 keep the eyes fixed on the steps as one ascends. Zigzagging is less tiresome 
 than the straight climb. When coming down try keeping close to the left 
 wall. 
 
 A broken series of 38 well-worn steps lead from the ground to the first 
 terrace; 68 lead thence to the 2d level; 48 to the 3d; 20 to the 4th ; and 48 to 
 the 5th. Thence it is about 15 feet over a dirt slope to the summit. 
 
 A wonderful stillness reigns at the top, whence the dilated eye ranges 
 over thousands. of square miles of territory that once, mayhap, echoed to 
 the happy voices of many people. Flowers bloom in the warm sunshine; 
 the Pyramid of the Moon stands silent at the right, the Ciudadela at the far 
 left, while across the western front, which we face, trends the Camino do 
 los Muertos, or Path of the Dead, so called because of the tumuli which 
 flank it. From these mounds wrought stone sarcophagi containing human 
 bones, obsidian knives, terra-cotta heads and whatnot have been taken. The 
 clay heads, or masks, are supposed to be effigies of buried priests. Of the 
 many hundreds exhumed, no two are alike in feature. Some show a strik- 
 ing resemblance to ancient Egyptians, others are mongoloid, and still 
 others negroid in character. This Highway of the Dead begins at the 
 square on the S. side of the Pyramid of the Moon, and extends to the 
 ravine S. of the Pyramid of the Sun. The remains of well-constructed con- 
 crete sidewalks, and polychromatic frescoes have been unearthed along 
 this boulevard. — About | M. to the N. of the Pyramid of the Sun is 
 
 The Pyramid of the Moon ( Meztli ), about 151 ft. high, with a base meas- 
 urement of 426 by 511 ft., and a crowning platform about 19 ft. square. 
 Like its companion pyramid, this one is artificial and is terraced. It 
 differs from the larger structure only in that it has a projecting body on 
 the first terrace. 
 
 Both pyramids are composed of five layers or coats of earth and volcanic 
 rock, each layer complete in itself. Originally the outer surface was faced 
 with masonry, then plastered over with a coating of cement or fine mortar. 
 Superimposed, the layers resemble a nest of boxes. Two tall peaks rise 
 from the distant ridge of hills, one exactly south, the other north, and it is 
 claimed that if a line were drawn from one to the other it would pass exactly 
 over the apices of both pyramids. 
 
 In line with the Pyramids, about 1 M. to the east, is the highly interest- 
 ing ruin known as the Temple of Quetzalcoatl, or La Ciudadela (the citadel), 
 a vast, quadrilateral structure, recently exhumed and containing (against 
 the rear wall) some remarkable stone carvings representing mythological 
 subjects. The vast quadrangular court in which there are minor pyramids, 
 covers an area of approx. 160,000 sqr. meters. The four points of the en- 
 closure coincide with the four points of the compass. Excavations are in 
 progress. 
 
 Of interest to the stranger are the singularly barbaric sculptures seen to 
 the best advantage from the summit (39 steps) of the central pyramid, or 
 square. They face a narrow passage entered at the left of the extreme rear 
 of the enclosure; signs point the way. Watchful guards are in attendance, 
 and relic-mongers with ‘impulses’ should think twice before courting the 
 unhappy consequences certain to follow appropriations. Tips are not ex- 
 pected and should not be offered. The stucco on some of the walls is six 
 inches thick and carries traces of the polychromatic decorations which ori- 
 
4266 
 
 CHURCH OF ACOLMAN 
 
 ginally enriched it. Long acquaintance with Indian ruins and their motives 
 have enabled the Mexican artisans to restore old ruins to their pristine con- 
 dition, and this is being ably accomplished at this spot. Many fragments of 
 stone carvings lie about, and others are being uncovered from time to time. 
 
 Midway of the Ciudadela and the Pyramids, just off the road (signboard), 
 and at present being restpred, are some underground ruins known as Los 
 Subterraneos. They are interesting chiefly because they exhibit, in their 
 decorations and construction, the twin forms of culture (the upper structures 
 correspond to the 2d epoch, the lower to the 1st) characteristic of the Teoti- 
 huacan ruins. The connecting rooms recall Pompeii. 
 
 The Church and Convent ( Iglesia y Convento ) of San Ag"ustin de Acolman, 
 in the Village of Acolman, about 10 M. south of San Juan (see the Valley 
 PI. F, 1), can be reached from the Pj'ramids by motor car in about 1 hr., 
 by proceeding (£ hr.) to the plaza at the little town of Tepexpan and 
 following the Acolman road to the church. From Tepexpan the road is a 
 narrow, rocky lane, which grows rougher and rockier as one proceeds. Speed 
 is impossible, pedestrians are few, and the countryside is rather lonely. 
 While the church and the adjoining convent contain but little to interest 
 the ordinary traveller, ecclesiologists will regard it as a veritable find, since 
 it is one of a fast disappearing group of old structures erected by the Span- 
 iards soon after the Conquest. 
 
 It was begun in 1539 by the Augustin friars and was completed in 
 1560, during the reign of the (2d) viceroy Luis de Velasco (1560-64). It is 
 a decrepit but still massive affair, much resembling a fortress, in the form 
 of a rectangle 62 meters long by 17 meters wide, limited by thick walls 
 which rise to a height of 21 meters and terminate in a pylogonal apse. 
 The nave is divided by transverse arches supported by pilasters in four 
 spacious rectangles and a square which is joined to the apse. The material 
 is the almost imperishable tezontle (p. 245). 
 
 Both construction and decorations betray the fact that the church was 
 erected at that period when the medieval styles in Spain were just being in- 
 fluenced by the new renaissance forms that were striving to supplant the 
 earl}- Roman and Gothic. These conflicting elements are illustrated in the 
 facade, which shows certain aspects of early Roman churches side by side 
 with the renaissance modified to suit the Spanish taste of that distant 
 period. Interpreted in terms of the plateresque (so-named because of its 
 resemblance to silver work) these classical forms make this church one of 
 the rarest examples of its kind in the Republic. 
 
 Above the entrance is the shield and device of the Augustinians ; at the 
 left is that of Castile; at the right that of Acolman. Along the arch above is 
 depicted a line of different fruits — offerings to the saint by the simple Indians 
 of the parish — while above this line, in one of the spandrels of the arch, 
 the Angel Anunciadora conveys the transcendental announcement to the 
 Virgin Mary, in the corresponding spandrel. The male figure in the left 
 niche is San Pedro, that at the right San Pablo. The inscription along the 
 interior arch which supports the ancient choir refers to the reconstruction 
 of that portion of the church. In the triangle formed by the first archivolt, 
 the entablature and the columns, is represented the scene of the Annunciation. 
 A bust of the Virgin is at the right, while at the left is an angel holding in 
 its hand a ribbon with the inscription: Ave Maria Gratia Plena Dominus 
 Tceum Nude Indians carrying baskets on their heads figure in the dec- 
 orations, along with the arms of Spain, lion heads, etc. 
 
 Renaissance forms predominate in the interior; the pillars are Doric, 
 though somewhat tall for the general proportions of the interior. The figures 
 of the apostles, between the symmetrical columns, are excellent examples 
 of Spanish sculptures at the time of the renaissance. The 2d altar at the 
 ri^ht, dedicated to San Agustin, dates from the erection of the church and 
 consequently is nearly four hundred years old. The 1st at the left, dedicated 
 to La PurUima, dates from the same time. The pictures flanking that of 
 San Agustin represent incidents in the life of Christ. 
 
 The bizarre mural decorations which flank the high altar (dedicated to 
 San Igus'in), portray popes, doctors of the church, cardinals, bishops, 
 civilians and whatnot. Originally the walls were covered with frescoes, 
 but many of these have been whitewashed over. A number of the gilded 
 plateresque altars are now falling to decay. The 2d at the left, as we enter, 
 contains a picture of the Virgin of Guadalupe, said to have been painted by 
 Nicolas Rodriguez Judrez (comp. p. cl) 
 
TOWN OF TLAXCALA U- Route. 427 
 
 The custodian of the church is usually to be found in the ruinous Convento 
 which joins the church at the right (south). It perhaps dates from the 
 erection of the church proper. A number of quaint frescoes may still be seen 
 in the old, time-stained cloister. They are all in black and white and they 
 represent scenes on the way to Calvary. As records of the earliest paintings 
 of the Spaniards in Mexico they are highly valuable. 
 
 The return journey to Tepexpan is made over the same road as the out- 
 ward trip. From Tepexpan one can proceed to (18 M.) Mexico City, or 
 return to San Juan and board the train there. A motor car for the trip from 
 Mexico City to San Juan Teotihucdn , thence to Acolman and back to the 
 city (7-8 hours) will cost from $20 to $24. 
 
 A good walker could leave San Judn Tcotihuacdn in the early forenoon, 
 compass the distance to Acolman, inspect the church and convent, return 
 to Tepexpan, board a train there (on the Fcrrocarril Mexicano) for (33 kil- 
 oms.) Mexico City, and reach that place in the afternoon. Or reverse the 
 trip by taking an early a. m. train from Mexico City to Tepexpan, go thence 
 to Acolman, return to Tepexpan and proceed to San Judn Teotihuacdn — 
 where there are hotel accommodations if one were obliged to remain over 
 night. 
 
 86 M. Apizaco. The train on the branch line ( Ramal de 
 Puebla) leaves from the same station. The line trends south- 
 ward across a fairly level country. Popo and lztaccihuatl are 
 visible on the r., and the beautiful, snow-clad cone of Malintzi 
 on the left. Midway between Apizaco and Puebla is the small 
 station of Santa Ana , where passengers bound for the quaint 
 town of Tlaxcala board a train of the Ferrocarril de Tlaxcala 
 (several trains daily, time 1 hr., fare 50 c.). 
 
 The old Town of Tlaxcala (alt. 7,500 ft., pop. 3,000), in a small valley 
 surrounded by hills once crowned by the defences of the ancient Indian 
 capital, is but a simulacrum of its former greatness. At the time of the 
 Conquest it was the capital of an independent oligarchy governed by 
 several powerful chiefs whose fealty to the Spaniards made their con- 
 quest of Montezuma's empire possible. It was then said to contain 
 upward of 30,000 inhab. The most interesting sight in the town is the 
 weather-beaten old Church of San Francisco (founded in 1521), 
 approached by an “exceptionally picturesque paved way, tree-shaded 
 and ascending to the arch of the former monastery entrance, which is 
 flanked by a sturdy old bell-tower.” The hill-side is terraced, and the 
 outer wall of the atrium and the outlying campanario are on the brink 
 of a considerable descent. The venerable interior is remarkable for its 
 timbered roof with beautifully carved old cedar beams — from the 
 forests of Tlaxcala, whence came the lumber used in constructing the 
 brigantines employed in the siege of the Aztec capital. The ceiling under 
 the coro is a fine example of artesonado- work. The adjacent large chapel 
 of the Tercer Orden has several good retablos of carved and gilded wood. 
 That of the high altar is a sturdy example of the style (Renaissance, or 
 Plateresque) that preceded the Churrigueresque (p. cxxxix). The pulpit on 
 the right is famed as the first from which the gospel was preached on 
 this continent. It is inscribed: il Aqui tubo principio al Santo Evangelio 
 en este nuevo mundo" — Here the Holy Evangel had its beginning in this 
 New World. The pulpit shows every mark of great age. Equally inter- 
 esting is the time-stained font in which the four chiefs of Tlaxcala, the 
 first converts to Christianity, were baptized. The inscription says: “In 
 this font the four senators of the ancient Tlaxcalan Republic received 
 the Catholic faith. The religious act took place in the year 1520; the 
 minister was Don Luis Diaz, chaplain of the conquering army, and the 
 godfathers, Captain Cortes, and his distinguished officers, Don Pedro de 
 Alvarado, Don Andres de Tapia, Don Gonzalo de Sandoval, and Don 
 Cristobal de Olid. To Maxicatzin they gave the name of Lorenzo; to 
 Xicotencatl that of Vicente; to Tlahuexolotzin that of Gonzalo; and to 
 ZiUalpopoca that of Bartolome. 
 
 The Capilla de Guadalupe has a fine old screen of carved and gilded 
 
428 Route 44 . 
 
 TLAXCALA STATE 
 
 wood. The retablo of the old altar within has scenes from the life of the 
 Virgin, painted in 1669. The Altar de Dolores dates from 1661, and was 
 erected by Diego de Tapia. In the Council Room of the Casa Municipal , 
 facing the plaza, is a small museum of pictures and relics of ancient 
 Tlaxcala. , 
 
 The Santuaiio de Ocotlan, one of the most celebrated shrines in Mexico, 
 stands on a hill ( Cerro de Ocotlan), about 1 M. S.-E. of the plaza, on the 
 site of the palace of Maxicatzin, a Tlaxcalan prince of the old days. 
 According to tradition it marks the spot where, in the early years of 
 Spanish rule, a miraculous spring gushed forth to reward the quest of a 
 pious Indian at the time of a water-famine and the visitation of a great 
 small-pox plague. The name Ocotlan (Aztec, ocote — pine, and tlan — 
 place) is so called for the great pine trees which once clothed the hill. 
 “ It has been a famous place of pilgrimage for centuries, and enormous 
 sums have been lavished upon the embellishment of the church. The 
 narrow bases of the towers and the overhang of the upper portions are 
 an unpleasant feature, giving an effect of top-heaviness. The interior 
 was partially modernized between the years 1852 and 1854, at the 
 expense of Dona Maria Josef a Zabalza ; happily in much better taste 
 than is usual with such procedures. An inscription near the entrance 
 relates that the work in the chancel and transepts was left untouched be- 
 cause of its antiquity and excellence. A notable feature of this interior 
 is the treatment of the transept and chancel as a unit, separated from 
 the body of the ch. by a construction resembling a theatre proscenium. 
 The effect of this part is something overpoweringly magnificent, the 
 Churrigueresque retablos of the high altar and the transept altars lining 
 the walls with a superb incrustation of gilded wood-work, while the 
 dome is treated in similarly rich fashion. The contrast of this space, 
 resembling an enormous enchanted grotto, with the simply treated body 
 of the ch. is something extraordinary. It was no mean talent, that of 
 the Indian sculptor, Francisco Miguel, who devoted 25 years to the exe- 
 cution of this work, together with that in the camarin. The latter is a 
 marvel of arabesque stucco-work, with an attractive color-scheme of 
 gold and metallic lustre of green on a white ground, with other brilliant 
 colors for accent. The. dome has a blue ground with a circle of gold on 
 scarlet. There is a circle of polychrome figures of apostles around a blue 
 ground, receiving tongues of flame from the Holy Spirit, symbolized by 
 a white dove in the center. The feet of these apostles rest upon a circle 
 of white- and-gold cloud. The room is exquisitely furnished with richly 
 carved estantes, benches, tables, etc. There is a silver altar with a figure 
 of solid gold in the shrine. The floor is covered with a beautiful and 
 quaint old Mexican tapestry, thick and heavy. The mural paintings in 
 oil by Villalobos, representing the Virgin of Ocotlan and a life of the 
 Virgin, are hardly worthy of their surroundings, and those on the walls 
 of the handsome sacristy, painted in 1764 by Magon, the Puebla painter, 
 are worse than mediocre.” (Sylvester Baxter.) The extraordinary 
 facade of the Santuario, as well as the tiled and floridly ornamented 
 front of the Church of San Jose, suggest that Tlaxcala lies within the 
 sphere of the architectural influence of Puebla. The crown of the figure 
 of the Virgin of Ocotlan is beautifully wrought in gold, emeralds, rubies, 
 and diamonds. The ceremony of the coronation, which was authorized 
 by a special Papal Bull, occurred May 12, 1907, in the presence of the 
 special Papal Delegate and many archbishops from various Mexican 
 cities. The tradition of the appearance of the Virgin to the Indian Juan 
 Diego, in 1541, is much like that of the Virgin of Guadalupe, described 
 at p. 394. 
 
 Tlaxcala (a corruption of the Aztec Tlax-calldn — Land 
 of Corn), smallest of the Mexican states (one of the Estados del 
 Centro ), with a pop. of 172,315 and an area of 4,132 sqr. kilom.; 
 high on the great Central Plateau, covering a territory corre- 
 sponding almost exactly to that of the ancient Tlaxcalan 
 Republic , is bounded on the N., E. and S. by the state of Puebla 
 and on the W. by Mexico. The capital, Tlaxcala , is 7,500 ft. 
 
THE TLAXCALAN NATION U. Rte. 429 
 
 above the level of the sea, and is, from a historical view-point, 
 one of the most interesting spots in the Republic. The mean 
 altitude of the region is 6,600 ft., with the magnificent snow- 
 capped peak of Malintzi (13,690 ft.) or Matlacueyatl, as the 
 culminating point. The region is very mountainous; the east- 
 ern slopes of the Popocatepetl range mark the W. portion of 
 the state, while to the E. is the Penon del Rosario (11,200 ft.). 
 Many minor peaks rise in pointed grandeur; while skirting 
 their bases are fine valleys and plains, prominent among the 
 latter the Llanos de Apam, celebrated for many maguey plants 
 and for pulque fino (p. lxxxii). The Valle de Huamantla 
 (p. 497) is the finest in the state. The climate of Tlaxcala is 
 cold and dry. Snows are frequent in the mountainous region. 
 The flora is limited ; agriculture is the chief industry, with 
 wheat as the staple product. 
 
 The first wheat in Mexico was accidentally introduced, it is believed, 
 in some rice brought with the stores of the Spanish army, and was first 
 
 S lanted before 1530. From that humble beginning, the wheat crop of 
 fexico has steadily increased, until, at the present day, this cereal finds 
 congenial surroundings everywhere on the plateaus. The Mexican wheat 
 is of the best quality, and may be compared with the finest foreign grain. 
 In the state of Puebla, near Cholula, the common harvest is from 30 to 
 40, but frequently exceeds 70 to 80 for one. In the Valley of Mexico 
 it produces 18 or 20 fold. The wheat is threshed in the primitive manner 
 of the ancient Egyptians, with horses to tread it out, on a floor of pounded 
 earth. The product is then thrown into the air and winnowed out. 
 
 Historical Sketch. “The character and institutions of the Tlaxcalan 
 nation, in many respects the most remarkable in Andhuac , were note- 
 worthy. The Tlaxcalans belonged to the same great family with the 
 Aztecs. They came on the grand plateau about the same time with the 
 kindred races, at the close of the twelfth century, and planted them- 
 selves on the western borders of the lake of Tezcuco. Here they remained 
 many years, engaged in the usual pursuits of a bold and partially civi- 
 lized people. From some cause or other, perhaps their turbulent tem- 
 per, they incurred the enmity of surrounding tribes. A coalition was 
 formed against them; and a bloody battle was fought on the plains of 
 Poyauhtlan , in which the Tlaxcalans were completely victorious. Dis- 
 gusted, however, with their residence among nations with whom they 
 found so little favor, the conquering people resolved to migrate. They 
 separated into three divisions, the largest of which, taking a southern 
 course by the volcan of Mexico, wound round the ancient city of Cholula , 
 and finally settled in the district of country overshadowed by the Sierra de 
 Tlaxcala. The warm and fruitful valleys, locked up in the embraces of 
 the rugged brotherhood of mountains, afforded means of subsistence 
 1 for an agricultural people, while the bold eminence of the sierra pre- 
 I sented secure positions for their towns. After the lapse of years, the 
 institutions of the nation underwent an important change. The mon- 
 archy was divided first into two, afterwards into four separate states, 
 bound together by a sort of feudal compact, probably not very nicelv 
 defined. . . . Thus a chain of feudal dependencies was established, 
 which, if not contrived with all the art and legal refinements of analogous 
 institutions in the Old World, displayed their most prominent character- 
 istics in its personal relations, the obligations of military service on the 
 one hand, and protection on the other. This form of government, so 
 different from that of the surrounding nations, subsisted till the arrival of 
 i the vSpaniards. . . . 
 
 “ The various arts of civilization kept pace with increasing wealth and 
 public prosperity. . . . This prosperity, in time, excited the jealousy 
 of their neighbors, and especially of the opulent state of Cholula. Fre- 
 
430 Rte. U- THE TLAXCALAN NATION 
 
 quent hostilities rose between them, in which the advantage was almost 
 always on the side of the former. A still more formidable foe appeared 
 in later days in the Aztecs, who could ill brook the independence of Tlax- 
 cala when the surrounding nations had acknowledged, one after another, 
 their influence or their empire. Under the ambitious Axayacatl , they 
 demanded of the Tlaxcalans the same tribute and obedience rendered 
 by other people of the country. If it were refused, the Aztecs would raze 
 their cities to their foundations, and deliver the land to their enemies. 
 To this imperious summons, the little republic proudly replied, ‘Neither 
 they nor their ancestors had ever paid tribute or homage to a foreign 
 power, and never would pay it. If their country w r ere invaded they knew 
 how to defend it, and would pour out their blood as freely in defence of 
 their freedom now, as their fathers did of yore, when they routed the 
 Aztecs on the plains of Poyauhtlan! ’ This resolute answer brought on 
 them the forces of the monarchy. A pitched battle followed, and the 
 sturdy republicans were victorious. From this period, hostilities be- 
 tween the two nations continued with more or less activity, but with un- 
 sparing ferocity. Every captive was mercilessly sacrificed. The children 
 •were trained from the cradle to deadly hatred against the Mexicans; 
 and, even in the brief intervals of w r ar, none of those inter-marriages 
 took place between the people of the respective countries, which knit 
 together in social bonds most of the kindred races of Anahuac. 
 
 “ In this struggle the Tlaxcalans received an important support in the 
 accession of the Otomies, a wild and war-like race originally spread over 
 the table-land north of the Mexican Valley. Their courage and fidelity 
 to the nation of their adoption showed them worthy of trust, and the 
 frontier places were consigned to their keeping. The mountain barriers 
 by which Tlaxcala is encompassed afforded many strong natural posi- 
 tions for defence against invasion. The country was open toward the 
 east, where a valley of some six miles in breadth, invited the approach 
 of an enemy. But here it was that the jealous Tlaxcalans erected the 
 formidable rampart which excited the admiration of the Spaniards and 
 which they manned with a garrison of Otomies. Efforts for their sub- 
 jugation were renewed on a greater scale after the accession of Monte- 
 zuma. His victorious armies had spread down the declivities of the 
 Andes to the distant provinces of Vera Cruz and Nicaragua, and his 
 haughty spirit was chafed by the opposition of a petty state whose ter- 
 ritorial extent did not exceed 10 leagues in breadth by 15 in length. 
 He sent an army against them under the command of a favorite son. 
 His troops were beaten, and his son slain. The enraged and mortified 
 monarch was roused to still greater preparations. He enlisted the forces 
 of the cities bordering on his enemy, together with those of the empire, 
 and with this formidable army swept over the devoted valleys of Tlax- 
 cala. But the bold mountaineers withdrew into the recesses of their 
 hills, and, coolly awaiting their opportunity, rushed like a torrent on 
 the invaders, and drove them back, with dreadful slaughter, from their 
 territories. 
 
 “Such was the position of Tlaxcala at the coming of the Spaniards; 
 holding, it might seem, a precarious existence under the shadow of the 
 formidable power which seemed suspended like an avalanche over her 
 head, but still strong in her own resources, stronger in the indomitable 
 temper of her people : with a reputation throughout the land for good 
 faith and moderation in peace, valor in war, while her uncompromising 
 spirit of independence secured the respect even of her enemies. With 
 such qualities of character, and with an animosity sharpened by long, 
 deadly hostility with Mexico, her alliance was obviously of the last im- 
 portance to the Spaniards, in their present enterprise. It was not easy 
 to secure it. . . .” 
 
 Hemdn Cortes and his bold Conquistador es had left Cempoalla August 
 16, 1519, on their famous march to the Aztec capital, but it was many 
 days later that they appeared on the borders of the Tlaxcalan posses- 
 sions. The Tlaxcalans had been made acquainted with the advance and 
 victorious career of the Christians, the intelligence of which had spread 
 far and wide over the plateau. They •were now much embarrassed by 
 an embassy, sent by Cortes , demanding a passage through their terri- 
 
THE TLAXCALAN NATION 44 . Rte. 431 
 
 tories. A great council was convened, and a considerable difference of 
 opinion prevailed among its members. At last the opinions of an ancient 
 chief , 1 Xicotencatl, prevailed. His son commanded a powerful army 
 of Tlaxcalan and Otomi warriors near the eastern frontier. He was to 
 fall with his force at once on the Spaniards. If victorious, the latter 
 would then be in their power. If defeated, the senate could disown the 
 act as that of the general, not of the Republic. For a description of this 
 battle, in which the Spaniards were victorious, see Prescott’s Conquest 
 of Mexico . 
 
 From Santa Ana the train continues to run in a southerly 
 direction, with Malintzi always in view on the 1. The stations 
 are unimportant. 116 M. Puebla, see p. 508. 
 
 1 A fine painting, El Senado de Tlaxcala, by Rodrigo Gutierrez , now 
 in the San Carlos Academy at Mexico City, depicts this momentous 
 council. 
 
VII. SOUTH-WESTERN MEXICO, 
 
 45. From Mexico City to Cuernavaca (thence to Puente 
 
 de Ixtla, Iguala, and Balsas) 
 
 46. Cuernavaca 
 
 History and Character of the town, 436. — Palacio de 
 Cortes, 437. — BordaGarden, 441. — Bougainvillaea, 442. 
 
 Excursions from Cuernavaca 
 
 а. El Barque, and La Colonia Miraval, 447. 
 
 б. Church and Pueblo de Tlaltenango, 448. 
 
 c. El Salto de San Antonio, 449. 
 
 d. Church of Chapultepec, and La Fuente, 450. 
 
 e. Sugar-Mill of Atlacomulco, 451 . 
 
 /. Acapacingo, 452. 
 
 g. Ruins of Tepoxtepec, 452. 
 
 h. Cerro de Xoehicalco, and The Hacienda of Cortes, 453. 
 t. Cavern of Cacahuamilpa, 453. 
 
 State of Morelos, *56. 
 
 432 
 
 436 
 
 447 
 
 47. From (Mexico City) Cuernavaca to Puente de 
 
 Ixtla, Iguala and Balsas 456 
 
 48. From Iguala to Taxco 457 
 
 Rafting on the Rio Balsas, 459. — Chilpancingo de los 
 Bravos, 459. — State of Guerrero, 460. — Acapulco, 460. 
 
 49. From Mexico City to Amecameca, Cuauhtla and 
 Puente de Ixtla 461 
 
 Amecameca and the Sacro Monte, 462. 
 
 Popocatepetl, 463. — Iztaccihuatl, 464. 
 
 Cuauhtla and the Hot Springs, 466. 
 
 45. From Mexico City to Cuernavaca ( thence to 
 Puente de Ixtla , Iguala , and Balsas). 
 
 120 K. (75 M.) Cuernavaca , daily trains in about 4 hrs. — To (113 M.) 
 Puente de Ixtla in about 7 hrs. — 148 M. Iguala in 9 hrs. — 185 M. Balsas, 
 in i2 hre. For fares see p. xxxi. Frequent and popular excursions to Cuer- 
 navaca at reduced rates (consult the newspapers or the rly. folders). Trains 
 leave from the Buena Vista Station (PI. E, 3) of the Ferrocarriles Naciona- 
 les. The best views are to be had from the left side of the cars. 
 
 The line describes a wide curve (to the 1.) traversing milpas 
 bordered by single rows of tall cypresses or by lines of spikv 
 maguey plants. Far to the r. is the celebrated shrine of Guada- 
 lupe, with its famous well, church, and hill-cemetery. 
 
 5 K. Santa Julia. Rly. crossing. We approach the Castillo 
 de Chapultepec (p. 379) perched on the craggy heights of Grass- 
 hopper Hill. Beyond are the spires of the city and the encir- 
 
MEXICO CITY TO CUERNAVACA 45. Rte. 433 
 
 cling brown hills, racing round like figurines in a puppet show. 
 The rly. skirts the edge of Chapultepec Park; to the 1. is the 
 King’s Mill and the battlefield of Molino del Rey, memorable 
 for a sanguinary struggle (Sept. 8, 1847) between the Ameri- 
 cans under General Worth and the Mexican defenders of the 
 Castle. (Comp. p. 381.) 
 
 The Americans fought under great disadvantages and against heavy 
 odds; finally capturing the old mill, then considered the strategical key 
 to the castle and the city beyond. General U. S. Grant was the first to 
 enter the mill after its capture. The monument visible in the open field 
 hard by was erected to commemorate this struggle. The long, low 
 buildings to the left are government ammunition factories. Some huge 
 pumping stations (city water) are also located here. 
 
 Just before reaching 13 K. Tacubaya (p. 417) we get a 
 splendid view of the castle and the hill, practically unob- 
 structed by trees. To the r. is the ohservatorio (p. 417) with 
 its squat domes dominating the surrounding country. The 
 train crosses parched fields planted with long, symmetrical 
 rows of aloes. 
 
 Lines of country Indians trot by laden with long ladders, 
 crates of pottery, vegetables, chickens and whatnot for the 
 city markets. Certain of the haciendas resemble old fortresses, 
 with huge environing walls surmounted by conning- towers, — 
 relics of the time not long ago when all the suburbs of the capi- 
 tal were unsafe, and when bandidos made of this region their 
 constant abiding-place. The leaven of progress working in the 
 minds of the hacendados expresses itself in the small plantation 
 cars which cross and re-cross the plantations, and in the 
 crowds of sarape-clad peones at work in the fields. — 17 K. 
 Mixcoac (p. 416), a quaint old garden-like suburb (tram-cars 
 from Mex. City at frequent intervals, time 30 min., fare 15 c.), 
 with pretty plazas , pink, blue and white houses, and several 
 crumbling old churches, — tottering relics of Colonial days. 
 The town is celebrated for its fine orchards, the one-time mon- 
 astery gardens of the early ecclesiastics who loved the simple 
 life, the fruitfulness of the earth, and the warm sunshine of this 
 chosen retreat. 19 K. Miranda. The line dips into a small 
 valley. Nopal cacti, with green, knob-like tunas growing 
 around the edges of the spiny pads, and tall organ, or candela- 
 bra cacti form the fences about the homes of the natives. 22 K. 
 Olivar. The mission-like building far to the 1. is the San Angel 
 Inn (p. 416). The train climbs steadily, and the wonderful 
 panorama of the Valley in retrospect unfolds itself. The rails 
 are laid in a succession of reverse curves, and they wind in and 
 out through apple and peach orchards where a wealth of pink 
 geraniums climb and bloom in sunny security on the white- 
 washed walls. Groups of half-nude Indian children chase the 
 cars, begging with one hand, and offering flowers and fruit for 
 sale with the other. 29 K. Contreras. 31 K. Eslava. Pines 
 take the place of agaves, and soon the train crosses great 
 
434 Rte. 45. MEXICO CITY TO CUERNAVACA 
 
 patches of volcanic scoria, lichen covered; the outpourings of 
 Ajusco Mt. in ages past. The view from the 1. as we advance 
 up the Mt. side is magnificent. The beautiful Vale of Andhuac 
 — according to Bayard Taylor, second only in beauty to the 
 Vale of Cashmere — spreads out far below like a gigantic relief 
 map with Tlalpan and the Pedregal in the foreground ; Coyo- 
 acan (the first American home of Hernan Cortes) and San 
 Angel in a line beyond; Tacubaya and Chapultepec to the 1.; 
 the City of Mexico, with its tiled domes and towers glistening 
 in the middle distance, Lake Texcoco and many minor lakelets 
 far to the r., and Guadalupe and a background of bare brown 
 mountains on the extreme left. To the r., not far from the 
 foothills, on the edge of a grove of trees, are the brown walls 
 of Churubusco, scene of a desperate combat, during the Ameri- 
 can invasion of 1847, for the possession of Mexico City. The 
 old Indian town of Xochimilco, enshrined in its olive gardens, 
 the one-time favorite summer home of the Aztec Tzins, resem- 
 bles a microscopic toy town from this great height. The en- 
 gineering difficulties of this rly. were great, and a retrospective 
 view shows line after line of rails zig-zagging down the moun- 
 tain to the distant valley. The superb, snow-clad peak of 
 Popocatepetl , and the long white ridge of Iztaccihuatl are in 
 full view, and the train seems almost on a level with their 
 hoary summits. The air carries a frosty tang in its thin, whin- 
 ing voice. The train traverses a comparatively level stretch 
 of Mt. top. We cross and re-cross the old post-road between 
 Cuernavaca and the capital, passing patches of burned timber- 
 land and groves of evergreens. 
 
 47 K. A jusco (Aztec = source of the streams) with many 
 burros laden with freshly cut timber from the nearby woods. 
 Much charcoal {carbon de lend) 1 comes from hereabout. The 
 charcoal burners are clannish Indians recognizable by their 
 sooty faces and their reticence. Stretching away from the 
 station are miles of pine lands marked by glades and groves. 
 Meagre little streams, sometimes showing thin ice along their 
 edges, trail across the open, and a hurtling wind whistles al- 
 most constantly through the trees. The old crater wall is near 
 here. The train crosses a country strewn with fantastic-looking 
 rocks showing evidence of violent volcanic activity. Many of 
 the low hills are mere masses of fused boulders, resembling 
 great black segments attracted to a magnetic centre. The con- 
 stant cutting of wood for the City market is thinning the dense 
 forests of pine which once covered the land hereabout. 58 K. 
 
 1 Charcoal ( carbon de lefia) to the value of about seventeen millions of 
 pesos is consumed annually in the Federal District; the consumption in 
 Mexico City is about $15,000 a day. The burners ( carboneros ) bring it in 
 from all quarters, and offer it for sale in crates ( huacales ), or bags. The 
 charcoal made from oak timber is said to be the best. The shops where 
 it is sold are called expendios or carbonerias. 
 
MEXICO CITY TO CUERNAVACA 45. Rte. 435 
 
 Panes. 62 K. LaCima (the summit), 9,895 ft.; the highest 
 ■ point on the line; about \ M. higher than the Valley of Mexico 
 and nearly 2 M. above Broadway or the Strand. The land- 
 ! scape is marked by a succession of small hills and grassy val- 
 I leys dotted with shaggy oaks, pines, and woodcutters' huts 
 made of green saplings or rly. ties placed perpendicularly. Hard 
 ! by the station is La Cruz delMarques, a huge stone cross marking 
 the territory granted by the Crown to Cortes , as Marquis of 
 the Valley. Cortes and his men passed near here in 1521 on 
 their march from Cuernavaca to Tenochtitlan. 67 K. El Toro. 
 
 75 K. Las Tres Marias (three Marys), so called from three 
 pine-clad hills in the vicinity. The southern wall of the crater 
 is soon crossed, and the train begins its journey downward 
 toward the tierra caliente. — 92 K. El Parque; point of de- 
 parture for the ruins (near by) of Tepoxtepec (p. 452). The view 
 (from the r.) is very fine, and Cuernavaca is visible in the far 
 distance. Thousands of square leagues of smiling valley-land, 
 hemmed in on three sides by sun-warmed hills, brown near 
 their base and blue where they cut the sky-line, wheel into 
 view as the line zig-zags along the terraces cut into the Mt. 
 side. From the pine belt we look down upon a luxuriant vege- 
 tation from amid which rise the feathery plumes of tall palms. 
 Before one can mark the difference, the train has passed from 
 the tierra fria to the tierra templada, and the thin, whistling air 
 of the Mt. tops is soon replaced by the warm, sweet air of sum- 
 mer. The effects of the southern exposure upon the vegetation 
 growing on the mountain side is very marked. The train 
 traverses patches of jungle and old church-gardens alive with 
 bird notes, with the chirping of happy insects, and redolent of 
 tropical fruits and flowers. Brilliant orchids are seen in some 
 of the trees, and through the open car windows are wafted 
 vagrant rose leaves and the sweet, fugitive, penetrating odor 
 of Spanish Jessamine. 108 K. Alarcon. Ill K. Ramon. The 
 spires and domes of Cuernavaca , like heliographic signal towers, 
 ire visible far below in the valley. The sun-lit Mt. slopes are 
 crossed by long, finger-like streams of lava that at one time 
 plunged down from Ajusco's crater. Quaint Indian pueblos, 
 ruinous churches, giant palms, flamboyant, fig and orchard 
 fruit-trees, and broad plantations of sugar-cane are features 
 of the sun-bathed landscape. The view far away toward the 
 S.-W., past Cuernavaca and to the rift in the blue hills, beyond 
 which lie Acapulco and the Pacific Ocean, is very beguiling. 
 A more attractive summer landscape could scarcely be imag- 
 ined. The train reaches the valley (of Morelos ) level, sweeps 
 grandly to the r., runs for some distance across a luxuriant 
 country swooning beneath waves of heat and sentinelled by 
 the snow-capped volcanoes, and soon halts at Cuernavaca . (See 
 p. 436.) For a continuation of the journey to Balsas, via Pu- 
 ente de Ixtla, Iguala, and Balsas, see Rte. 47, p. 456. 
 
436 Route 4 £ . 
 
 CUERNAVACA 
 
 Hotels , etc. 
 
 t 46. Cuernavaca. 
 
 Arrival. The town lies a mile or more S.-W. of the rly. station (visible in 
 the distance) and is linked thereto by a tramline whose cars meet trains 
 and carry passengers to the Plaza Juarez and the hotels. Cabs and autos 
 are available; to the hotel SI. By the hr. SI. 50. No charge for hand-luggage. 
 Trunks 50c. 
 
 By Automobile from Mexico City to Cuernavaca. Time about 2 hrs. 
 
 Popular and convenient. Cars leave certain of the Mexico City hotels at 
 stated intervals (consult the hotel manager). Fares according to the number 
 in the party. Cars can be hired for the trip at reasonable rates. The scenery 
 is described in Rte. 45, p. 433 et seq. 
 
 The road (being constantly improved) leads out over the Tlalpam Cause- 
 way, past the Country Club (p. 407) and toward Xochimilco (visible at the 
 far left, at 12 M., where the highway bends to the right and enters the hills). 
 At 14 M. we begin the ascent to the cool highlands. Splendid views. Many 
 Indian pack trains plod over the cobbled (and volcanic detritus) road bound 
 for, or returning from, the capital. At 18 M. Topenejo (2,600 meters) the 
 road slopes into a valley then climbs to a region of somber pines. The rly. 
 line comes into view and is crossed at 21 M., and thence to Cuernavaca it 
 parallels the highway — which crosses and recrosses it. At 26 M. La Cima 
 (the summit) we emerge on the divide at the highest (2,950 meters) point. 
 The road now winds across the summit of the ridge to 31 M. Tres Marlas 
 (2,750 meters) then descends the mt. side (entrancing views) to the Indian 
 town of (34 M.) Huitzilac. The descent (la bajada ) here is considerably 
 steeper (in some places about 1 in 10) than on the other side of the range. 
 At 42 M. Cuernavaca a gendarme stationed at the Cortes monument copies 
 the number of the car for the local police record. Garage in connection with 
 the Hotel Morelos. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). Of the several hotels, all of which are near the 
 Plaza Judrez, the quaint, historic Morelos, with its large, cool, clean rooms 
 (fine views), and modern comforts (American management and cooking), 
 is perhaps the most popular among foreigners. It is the rendezvous for 
 tourists and residents of the capital, and during the winter season, and at 
 week ends, lodgings should (if possible) be spoken for in advance. The rates 
 are reasonable, the food good, and the patio unusually attractive. The 
 hotel overlooks the pleasant little Jardin Morelos , and is flanked by the 
 plaza (music in the evenings). F. T. Weesner, proprietor. The views from 
 the wide, flat roof ( azotea ) are among the finest in the Republic. — Other 
 hotels are the Hotel Madrid , facing the plaza, Hotel Bella Vista, etc. 
 
 The Hotel Morelos runs frequent auto excursions from Mexico City to 
 Cuernavaca at reasonable rates. Cars start from the chief hotels, where 
 information relating to time of departure, etc., can be obtained. The More- 
 los management also plans auto trips to Cacahuamilpa and other points. 
 
 Cuernavaca (Sp. = cow’s horn) on a long ridge shaped some- 
 thing like a horn; chief town in the District of Cuernavaca, , 
 capital of the state of Morelos with 7,000 inhab., justly re- 
 nowned as a health resort and much visited by Mexicans 
 and foreigners alike, lies in a highly picturesque region well 
 watered by the Tepeyete River. 
 
 Cuernavaca is a Castilian corruption of the Nahuatl word Cuauhnahuac 
 — “near the woods” — a name given it by its Tlahuiea founders. The 
 Spaniards, catching at sound rather than sense, re-named this — along 
 w ith many Mexican towns. The situation of the town on a narrow’ ridge 
 aided them in their efforts to find a Spanish word that w r ould take the 
 place of the (to them) unpronounceable one supplied by the Tlahuicas. 
 Though at an elevation of 4,500 ft. above the level of the sea, it has a 
 southern exposure so sheltered by the mountain barrier on the N. that 
 its climate is as soft and genial as that of a much lower region. It is a 
 thoroughly delightful open-air sanitarium, and the health of the people, 
 thanks to the benign climate, bears out the reputation of the towm as 
 a health resort. The magical charm of the place is further enhanced by 
 
CUERNAVACA 
 
 46. Route. 437 
 
 its beautiful views, some of which are the finest in Mexico. They are 
 to be seen to great advantage from the miradores, or conning-towers, 
 which rise above the flat roofs of some of the houses. The town has about 
 it a venerable quaintness that is very attractive. The weight of centu- 
 ries rests upon its ancient buildings, which are hoary with age and seem 
 tottering to their fall. Their wood-work is worm-eaten ( agusanado ), 
 their red brick or tiled floors are worn thin by generations of feet, their 
 great, copper and iron studded Moorish doors appear ready to fall from 
 their pivots or their primitive hinges, and their walls are stained a hue 
 which only centuries can impart. The streets are narrow, cobble-paved, 
 tortuous and clean. Some are flanked by fruit-laden mango trees or 
 flowering oleanders, and from a distance the town appears to repose 
 in the midst of a great shaded and flower-embowered garden. It is a 
 town of fountains and running water. Cold mountain streams rush and 
 gurgle beneath some of the stone-flagged sidewalks, and as one walks 
 along there comes to the ear a sound of rushing water: if this be not con- 
 fined in a central sluice-way, one has but to lift one of the worn flag3 
 with its rusty, iron-imbedded ring, to see a miniature torrent dashing 
 along in quest of a lower level to “wind somewhere safe to sea.” A part 
 of the town water supply is obtained from the fine subterranean springs 
 at El Parque (p. 447), whence it is drawn off in masonry conduits to a 
 splendid old acueducto, which it crosses before entering the upper reaches 
 of the town. (The El Parque water has a decided laxitive tendency on 
 certain constitutions, and to nullify this, the hotels which use it, serve 
 distilled water ( agua destilada ) — which the guest should be sure to ask 
 for.) Some of the drinking water comes from a newlv discovered (1907) 
 spring in the hills back of Miraval Colony (p. 448). This colony, with its 
 club-house and attractive cottages, is the most popular in the neighbor- 
 hood. Tourists are usually interested in a wide-spreading tree — said 
 to be the only one of its kind in the region — that grows in the front 
 yard of a native dwelling on the Calle de San Pablo. The Mexicans call 
 it the Arbol de Dinamita — dynamite tree — (also Arbol de Habas de 
 San Ignacio — beans of St. Ignatius), because when mature, the oddly- 
 shaped pods (if kept in a warm place) burst with considerable force 
 (dangerous) and a loud report, and scatter the flat, round seeds to a 
 surprising distance. The pods are on sale (8 c. each) by the owner, and 
 they make bizarre curios. The tree is perhaps Strychnos nux-vomica , 
 from the seeds of which the deadly strychnine ( Strychnos Ignaiii) is ex- 
 tracted. — Seeds known as Tears of Job ( lagrimas de Job), referred to 
 at p. 59 (and brilliant red beans) are offered for sale at the hotels and 
 on the streets. The innocent-appearing youngsters who peddle them 
 have the commercial instinct shrewdly developed, and bargaining is 
 necessary. A long string for which 50 c. or more is asked can generally 
 be bought for 25 c. 
 
 Historical Summary. Cuauhnahuac was the ancient capital of the 
 Tlahuicas and the most considerable place, for wealth and population, 
 in this part of the country. It was tribiitary to the Aztecs, and a gar- 
 rison of this nation was quartered within its walls. The place was as- 
 saulted and captured by Cortes and his men in April, 1521, and Charles 
 V was so pleased with his success that he included Cuernavaca in the 
 thirty cities which he gave to the Conqueror. It remained for many years 
 a part of his estate, and was finally willed by him to his direct descendant, 
 the Duke of Monteleone . After the return of Cortes (1530) from Spain, 
 he took up his residence at Coyoacan, but later came to Cuernavaca 
 where “he erected a stately palace, and henceforth made the city his 
 favorite residence. He superintended his vast estates, and devoted him- 
 self to bringing them into proper cultivation. He introduced the sugar- 
 cane from Cuba and erected sugar-mills and other works for the manu- 
 facture of the raw material.” — The region contains many carved stone 
 relics of the early inhabitants. In the suburbs of the town are rocks 
 carved with huge lizards and covered with petroglyphs. 
 
 The Palacio de Cortes (PI. C, 4), seat of the state legis- 
 lature and of the local government offices, a castellated edifice 
 which faces the Plaza de Congreso , on a shelf of land which 
 
438 Route 46. 
 
 CUERNAVACA 
 
 Palacio de 
 
 slopes away sharply in the rear and terminates m a deepish, 
 verdure-choked barranca , is one of the oldest buildings in the 
 Repub. if not in America. It was begun by Hernan Cortes in 
 1530, and a half-obliterated inscription, in old Spanish, on the 
 third arch of the Sala de Reception advises that it was com- 
 pleted (evidently refers to renovations) in 1767. A pretty 
 garden stretches in front of the palacio , the facade of which is 
 defaced by several lines of new tin guttering (a bit of unwar- 
 ranted desecration) and by repeated “ renovations ” in doubt- 
 ful taste. The conical clock- tower on the N.-W. comer is a 
 recent addition, as is also the meteorological observatory on the 
 roof. A winding stair ascends to the E« and W. loggias on the 
 second floor. Opening on to the W. loggia is the Sala de Recep- 
 tion (Audience hall), a large arched room newly decorated in a 
 medley of tints — the national colors predominating. Por- 
 traits of military heroes ( Galeana , Morelos , Allende, Josef a 
 Ortiz de Dominguez , Miguel Hidalgo , Juarez , Zaragoza, Guer- 
 rero, Mina, Matamoros, and Bravo) and a handsome painting 
 of President Porfirio Diaz adorn the room, which is flanked on 
 two sides by railed-in benches. The desk of the executive 
 stands at the N. end. 
 
 Leaving the audience hall by the main entrance we turn to 
 the 1. and proceed through the building to the rear loggia ; on 
 the right of the pasillo is a room devoted to the government 
 archives; above the door is the inscription, in Spanish: “Gen- 
 eral Jose Maria Morelos , illustrious commander, national hero 
 and sincere defender of freedom, who spilled his blood on the 
 gallows and thus fructified the holy cause of Mexican Liberty, 
 was imprisoned here the 6th, 7th, and 8th, of Nov. 1815. Gen- 
 eral of Division Jose Ceballos, dedicates this remembrance to 
 him MDCCCLXXXI.” — A small caracol stair, at the extreme 
 end of the corridor, winds to the roof. Immediately to the 1. 
 of the exit is a low wall over which one gets a peep into an 
 interesting patio — the city prison — in the older part of the 
 building. A fountain plays in the centre of this well-like court, 
 and cobblers, tortilla-venders, and hawkers of wooden platters, 
 hats, sweet-meats, cigarettes and whatnot, cater to the wants 
 of the prison and of the garrison. In the opposite wall of this 
 cavernous patio is a pair of ancient doorways, solidly walled-in, 
 and the grim face of the stones leads one to speculate on what 
 lies beyond ; whether the bones of one or more victims of the 
 rude and not always wily conqueror, or merely those of some 
 unfortunate, unable to harmonize his religious scruples with 
 the tenets of the alleged Holy Inquisition. We round the 
 highly tinted observatory building and proceed to the N. end 
 of the azotea, whence there spreads away a view of unusual 
 charm. The topographical irregularities of the surrounding 
 countrv, and the sharp contrast between the tropical, flower- 
 decked, palm-dotted valley and the cold snows of the vol- 
 
Cortes . 
 
 CUERNAVACA 
 
 Ifi. Route. 439 
 
 canoes which start up at the horizon, are noteworthy. In one 
 grand sweep the eye embraces sections of the frigid, the tem- 
 perate, and the torrid zones. Directly back of the palacio the 
 land falls sharply away, forming a gorge filled with vegetation 
 and enriched by a rivulet. Then it spreads abroad in a suc- 
 
 I cession of rising hills which blend finally with the range in 
 which Popocatepetl , lztaccihuatl and Ajusco are the crowning 
 points. 
 
 Unless it be in the rainy season (June-Sept.) the val- 
 ley sleeps in a changeless sea of warm sunshine, and a more 
 I peaceful spot could scarcely be found on this side of Hesperi- 
 !i des. The red-tiled, time-stained roofs of the tinted houses nest- 
 ling amid green, flower-bespangled foliage, and with patios that 
 resemble those of Pompeii, — except that tall palms rise from 
 many of them, and a wealth of magenta Bougainvillaea hides 
 many of them from view, — remind one of certain views in 
 Sicily and along the Ionian Sea. Country villas dot the hill- 
 sides, just as those of Naples cling to the skirts of Vesuvius; 
 the same Spanish-Roman bridges are here, hoary with age 
 and idealized by the brilliant flowers that glorify their massive 
 sides; here, also, are the old Roman highways, Iberianized, 
 built by Cortes to facilitate the Conquest of the Valley of Mex- 
 ico ; and but for the rich vegetation which clothes the hills, 
 they would all but pass for those of Tuscany or Greece. Over 
 these hills and adown the roads come and go groups of patient 
 donkeys and plodding Indians, — the latter descendants of the 
 once lordly Tlahuicas (p. 43), now a sad-visaged, taciturn lot, 
 humbled to the dust by the conquering invaders. Lees of a 
 fast vanishing race, these Indians may often be seen threading 
 the Cuernavaca streets, or squatting in the busy mercado , be- 
 fore little piles of crude pottery, from the sale of which they 
 eke out a precarious existence. They keep well to themselves ; 
 dwelling in the quiet country, rarely mixing or intermarrying 
 with the Spaniards or Mexicans, and apparently preferring 
 the customs and traditions of their own race. To the far left, 
 as we face the volcanes , are three humps on a long ridge, Las 
 tres Marias (the three Marys), which the train skirts in its 
 descent to the Morelos valley. To the left of these hills, near a 
 dip on the sky-line, is Huichilac , once a post-station on the old 
 diligence road between Acapulco and the Mexican capital. 
 The clump of trees near the rly. station conceals El Parque 
 (mentioned at p. 447). Far to the 1., almost in line with the 
 clock tower of the palacio , is the locally celebrated shrine (p. 
 448) of Our Lady of Tlaltenango. Beyond, and toward the hills, 
 is the Buena Vista fabrica (p. 449). The bright green field far 
 to the r., near the base of the hills, is a portion of the old Cor- 
 tes estate, with the sugar-mill of Atlacomulco (p. 451); be- 
 tween it and the town, slightly to the r., stands Acapacingo 
 (p. 452), the one-time summer bungalow of the Archduke Max - 
 
440 Route Ifi. 
 
 CUERNAVACA 
 
 Mercado. 
 
 imilian. The ruins of Xochiealco (p. 453) lie far beyond the 
 hills to the 1. of the Cathedral. The old Chapultepec Clmrch 
 (p. 450) flanks the road which leads country-ward past the N. 
 corner of the patacio. The pine-clad ranges of Zempoalla and 
 Aj usco cut the sky-line on the W. and N. 
 
 From the front of the palace a commanding view is had 
 of the square, the business section, and all that part of the 
 town W. of the Plaza de Congreso. In the foreground rise the 
 churches, massive and bulky; to the r. of the Cathedral is the 
 Borda Garden (p. 441), and beyond this a line of green hills. 
 The view is beguiling. The low, Spanish-Moorish houses with 
 slit, lancet-like windows and iron bars; the narrow, cobble- 
 paved streets twisting and turning through the somnolent 
 town; the plaza dotted with strange-looking Indians, fruits, 
 country products and picturesque Mexicans, all form mo- 
 saic-like bits in a wonderfully rich and attractive setting. 
 The knowledge that the Great Conqueror himself perchance 
 often stood by the same battlemented wall, and drank in the 
 details of the graceful picture, imparts romance and empha- 
 sizes the belief that perhaps nowhere in Mexico is the pano- 
 rama more entrancing. And one’s enjoyment and serenity of 
 mind are indubitably heightened by the knowledge that no 
 greedy government minion limits one’s time or demands out- 
 rageous entrance fees to the palacio ; that no voiceful cicerones 
 are permitted to harass the quiet-loving spectator, and that no 
 covetous, tip-soliciting blatherskites lurk near the exit. 
 
 On emerging from the palace, we step to the end surmounted by the 
 clock tower and enjoy the pretty vista visible from the top of the street 
 which leads down past the building and out toward the country. It is 
 one of the finest in the town and should not be missed. The deep gully 
 over which the eye travels is dotted with the peaceful homes of the 
 natives; the crest of the hill is crowned by a number of fine, lofty trees 
 and the whole is idealized by the snow-capped peaks which mark the 
 sky-line. In front of the palacw is a statue to the memory of Carlos 
 Pacheco. The bronzed fence which encloses the base resembles a rpw of 
 huge upright tomahawks, but it does not detract from the maimed, 
 pathetic figure which stands above. The inscription (in Spanish) at the 
 foot of the figure reminds one that Carlos Pacheco (a valiant soldier) 
 “ was the second Constitutional Governor of the State of Morelos, and 
 that General Jesus H. Preciado (Governor in 1S94) erected this statue 
 to him.” The one on the left relates that ‘‘He defended his country 
 during the French invasion, and was wounded in the assault on Pueblo, 
 April 2, 1867.” On the r. tablet we read that ‘‘He reorganized the 
 public administration of the state, and established the railway between 
 Mexico City and Cuauhtla .” The inscription in the rear says, ‘‘He was 
 General of a Division, Minister of War, Governor of the Federal District. 
 Minister of Public Works. Constitutional Governor of the State of 
 Chihuahua, and was born Oct. 16, 1839, and died Sept. 15, 1891.” The 
 lines on the base recall that the monument was completed and erected 
 Sept. 15, 1895, and that the then governor of the state was Citizen 
 Manuel Alarcon — for whom the garden in front is named. 
 
 The Mercado (market), near the Ialesia Catolica , is an 
 attractive and busy spot where many fine fruits, vegetables, 
 straw-hats (made in Leon , p. 124), Indian pottery, and a host 
 
Borda Garden. CUERNAVACA 46. Route. 441 
 
 of articles of native manufacture (bargaining necessary), can 
 be bought. On market-days the place is thronged with booths, 
 and many stands are erected on the contiguous streets. 
 
 The Borda Garden ( Jardin de la Borda), opposite the 
 Cathedral, 5 min. walk from the Morelos hotel (PL B, 4), is 
 the chief show-place of the town. This one-time magnificent 
 formal garden in the Italian style — the work of a French- 
 man, Joseph le Borde, who came to Mexico in 1716, and who by 
 energy and fortunate speculation in mines at Zacatecas , 
 Tlalpujahua and Taxco amassed a fortune estimated at forty 
 million pesos — cost upward of a million pesos , and was es- 
 tablished as a sort of huen retiro , or pleasant retreat, to satisfy 
 the owner’s taste for horticulture. After his death it passed to 
 alien hands, since when it has suffered from lack of care. 
 
 The garden spreads over a large sloping area with a west- 
 erly exposure, and commands wide prospects over the glorious 
 landscape; from the great extinct volcano of Ajusco that 
 towers just above the city to the northward, around the far 
 reaching vistas of the ample Morelos valley that descends 
 gently southward into the hot-lands. It is still very beautiful 
 with its terraces, arcades, pergolas, arbors, basins and foun- 
 tains. One of the latter is a very gem of its simple kind. It 
 has an exquisite charm of classic elegance, an effect of poetic 
 antiquity in its dark and moss-ground stone, the sunlight 
 shifting down upon it through the rich and glossy leafage of 
 the great mango trees that shade it. In addition to the vast 
 sums spent in creating this jardin , Le Borde , who was noted 
 for generosity, spent an additional million pesos in building 
 and decorating the splendid Taxco Church (described at p. 457), 
 beside endowing the Cathedral at Mexico City, and other 
 churches with princely gifts. 
 
 To reach the garden we proceed to the rear of the Hotel Morelos , cross 
 the narrow Avenida Primera Calle Galeana which runs directly back 
 of it, enter the equally narrow and cobble-paved Segunda Calle de Rayon , 
 and follow it up the hill to its intersection with the Avenida Morelos. 
 The large building on the left is the Theatre Porfirio Diaz, which houses 
 also the Public Library. Diagonally across the street to the 1. is the 
 Church of Guadalupe (p. 446), and next door thereto is a low house 
 (No. 5) with a wide entrance and a tablet bearing the inscription Jardin 
 de La Borda, Octubre 4, 1888. We enter a small court and follow the 
 passage that leads into the second patio at the rear. The large iron gate 
 is closed, but nearby is a painted hand pointing to the r. We pass 
 through the opening marked Entrada, turn sharply to the l. and pene- 
 trate to the wide cloister-like corridor, facing the garden. All the rooms 
 to the r. of this corridor were the apartments of the ill-fated Maximilian 
 and his Empress during their several visits to Cuernavaca. The entrance 
 fee is paid here. Children the same price as adults. There is no time 
 limit on one’s stay in the garden, but a second entrance must be accom- 
 panied by a second payment. A line of coffee trees usually laden with 
 brilliant red berries flanks the corridor to the end of the house, and 
 through the thick underbrush one catches glimpses of the pretty garden 
 and its numerous fountains. Considerable coffee is harvested in the 
 garden, and the berries may be seen drying on mats spread to the sun. 
 
442 Route 46 . CUERNAVACA Bougainvillaea. 
 
 The mangoes, which Le Borde brought to a high state of perfection, are 
 noted for their fine flavor. 
 
 At the corner of the house, we turn sharply to the r. and follow the 
 cement pavement to the N. wall of the garden. To the r. of this walk is 
 a small, interior garden, with the old church at its outer edge. To the 1. 
 are dense masses of shrubbery interspersed with banana, coffee, and tall 
 mango trees heavy with ripening fruit. A short walk brings us to the 
 lateral wall, and by following this down to the 1. we soon reach the foot 
 of the garden and a small mirador, or conning tower; whence a splendid 
 view of the country is had. The name-scribbling mania is much in 
 evidence on the pillars of this mirador. The land drops sharply away 
 from the base of the wall, terminating in a deep barranca, and from this 
 lofty quadrangle, which reminds the traveller of some of the miradores 
 of the forts of British India, one gets a fairly correct estimate of the 
 dimensions of the garden, as well as an interesting glimpse of the tropical 
 vegetation growing in the depths of the contiguous gorge. At the 
 southern end of this wall is another tower, reached by a broad pavement 
 parallel with the back wall. From this second coign of vantage, the eye 
 travels across the deep gulch over which the invading Spaniards crawled 
 on trees before they captured the town, and to a fine of blue hills which 
 cuts the southern horizon miles away. A quaint Indian church ( San 
 Antonio ) crowns the crest of the opposite hill, and in the depths of the 
 barranca is a time-stained stone viaduct (a relic of the Spanish invasion), 
 over which come Indians laden with crude pottery from the hill-top 
 village of San Antonio (p. 449). Rows of brilliant flores delanochebuena im- 
 
 f >art color to the hillside, and thick clumps of bananas are features in the 
 andscape. — Instead of following the south wall back to the entrance, 
 we turn to the left and thread one of the numerous paths that zig-zag 
 across the garden. A short walk along any one of these brings us to the 
 central lakelet (the chief feature), in an artificial stone basin, 500 ft. 
 long by 40 wide, dotted with islets containing banana trees, magueyes, 
 coffee, and many beautiful flowering shrubs. Snow geese and iridescent 
 ducks stand on these fairy-like spots and preen their feathers or sleep 
 with one foot drawn up and heads tucked beneath their wings. The 
 murmur of running water fills the air, and a delightful sense of restful- 
 ness broods over the spot. Between the lake and the house (higher up) 
 the garden is terraced, and stone pillars surmounted by busts or jar- 
 dinibres of flowers stand amid the shrubbery. At each end of the lake 
 are attractive bathing-pavilions to which the Empress Carlota and the 
 ladies of her court were wont to come on moon-lit nights, when a swim 
 in the tepid waters, under the velvet, star flecked sky, must have been 
 in the nature of an enchantment. The lake and the several fountains are 
 fed by streams which course down from the upper reaches of the garden, 
 through cemented sluices. 
 
 Despite its unkempt appearance, the enclosure shows many traces 
 of former beauty. It must have been delightful when in its prime — 
 certainly fitted to be the favorite resort of the imperious Maximilian 
 and his ambitious Empress. The well-groomed, pleasure-loving padres, 
 into whose hands the garden passed at Le Borde' s death, must have found 
 it peculiarly to their liking. It was manifestly Le Borde' s intention to 
 further enhance the value and beauty of his buen retiro by making it 
 a tropical hortus, for within itssheltering walls, warmed by a sempiternal 
 sun and protected from the rude mountain breezes there grew — and 
 still grow — many of the ten thousand species of plants known to exist 
 in Slexico. Mangoes were the owner’s favorite fruit, and during his life, 
 the spot was known locally as Le Borde' s Mango Garden. Here the 
 Bougainvillaea 1 thrives luxuriantly and climbs to the topmost point of the 
 
 1 Bougalnvillsa, a small genus of climbing shrubs of the four o’clock 
 family ( Nyctaginacecp ), having the numerous flowers almost concealed 
 by large membranous colored bracts, widely cultivated as a hot -house or 
 conservatory plant, grows wild and in great profusion in Cuernavaca, 
 and forms one of the floral glories of the place. It perhaps owes its intro- 
 duction into Europe, whence it found its way later to America, to_the 
 French soldier and navigator Luis Antoine de Bougainville (b. 1729, 
 
Bor da Garden . 
 
 CUERNAVACA 
 
 46. Route . 443 
 
 highest trees to flaunt its beauty wantonly in the face of the sun. A 
 horde of white roses, of convolvuli, marguerites, jasmine, heliotrope, 
 and a wealth of riotous tropical snrubs and flowers lignt for existence 
 with tall mango trees, bamboo, coffee, banana, and other shrubs, and a 
 tangled mass of vines and creepers. Curious among the latter is the 
 Pina-anona (Bromeliaceas) , a native of the tierra caliente, which produces 
 an edible fruit resembling the pineapple, and which is one of the most 
 noteworthy climbing plants in the garden. 
 
 The leaves of this many-fingered creeper are a vivid green and are 
 pierced by elongated slits. It is a sturdy and persistent climber, throwing 
 strong, rattan-like cords about the tree or along the wall it proposes to 
 mount. Seen in the upper branches of a tree it is easily mistaken for 
 one of the Orchidae, but an inspection will reveal the long feelers grasp- 
 ing the trunk as it ascends. The Jalap ( Ipomea purga), an offshoot of 
 the family Convolvulaceas, thrives here, albeit its home is nearer to the 
 tierra caliente.. In suggestive proximity to the Jalap plant is the Castor 
 Bean ( Palma Christi), which here attains the dignity of a tree, and which 
 has supplanted Jalap as a medicine as effectually as the automobile has 
 distanced the bicycle as a medium of speed. Among the many trop- 
 ical and sub-tropical trees are specimens of the chico-zapote ( Achras 
 sapota ) — the brown fruit of which resembles a potato and tastes 
 like maple syrup . the guava, or Spanish guavaba ( Psydium pyriferum) ; 
 the chirimoya or custard-apple ( Anona Iripctala ); the melon zapote, 
 or papaya ( Carica papaya ), whose leaves possess the curious proper- 
 ties referred to at p. 548; mamey or mummy-apple ( Lucuma Bomplani ); 
 fig ( Ficus carico ); sweet-lime (Citrus limmeta): the orange, lemon, date 
 and whatnot. The ahuacate, or butter-nut (Persea gratissima), is one 
 of the most popular of the Mexican fruits ; it often takes the place of 
 butter, and of it the natives make a delectable salad. Sailors to tropic 
 climes know this product as “Midshipman’s butter.” Several fine spec- 
 imens of the giant Ahuehuete, or Mex. cypress, — brothers to the splen- 
 did specimens of Taxodium distichum in the forest of Chapultepeo 
 Castle, at Mexico City, — are to be seen here, and they are noteworthy 
 not onlv for their great size and age, but also for the trailing Spanish 
 moss (Tillandsia asenoides ), and the brilliant orchids which usually 
 cling to them. < The red blooms of the hibiscus sabdarifa (Malvaceas) 
 are much in evidence here, and the natives use them in the preparation 
 of a febrifuge drink. Another red flower used medicinally is the beauti- 
 ful Flor de Noche Buena , or Christmas-Eve flower (Euphorbia pulcher - 
 rima). Australians and travellers from the Far East will recognize the 
 granadita, or Chinese pomegranate (Passiflora ccerulea), which produces 
 a kind of passion-flower with an edible fruit (delicious when eaten with 
 sugar and sherry-wine). The Mexican magnolia (M agnoliaceas) , called 
 by the Spaniards flor de corazon, or flower of the heart, and by the Aztecs 
 yoloxochitl, is one of the most gorgeous and fragrant flowers in the garden. 
 The pepper-trees (Schinus molle Terbintaceas ) are known locally as the 
 arbol de Peru (Peruvian tree), and they furnish a gum and a medicine. 
 
 Shaded walks, many of them covered with arbors formed of inter- 
 twined rose-bushes, wind through this ambrosial garden, and the rip- 
 pling, whimpering sound of running water is constantly heard. The 
 conning towers at the angles of the walls are delightful spots in which 
 to rest and read and dream of the time when the mail-clad conquistadores 
 fought with the Indian owners for possession of the town, or when this 
 
 d. 1814) who followed Captain Cook on his voyage around the world 
 and discovered several hitherto unknown islands in the South Pacific 
 Ocean, among them Bougainville Islands, mayhap the original home 
 of the shrub. The color of the bracts varies with the locality; ranging 
 from a pure white, in California, to a lovely crimson and a deep magenta 
 verging on to purple in Mexico. Travellers familiar with British India 
 will remember the gorgeous masses of this bracteose shrub which almost 
 envelop the rly. stations along the North Bengal Railway The plant 
 is a hardy climber, and delights to display its striking beauty along the 
 topmost ridge of the tallest houses, or the highest branches of giant trees 
 
444 Route 46 . CUERNAVACA Cathedral. 
 
 garden rang with the happy voices of the children of the man whose love 
 of the beautiful brought it into being. 
 
 The Cathedral (PL B, 4), originally the Church of San 
 Francisco, and known as La Parroquia until the establishment 
 of the diocese in 1891 ; one of the oldest and quaintest churches 
 in the Repub., was founded June 2, 1529, at the instigation of 
 Hernan Cortes , by certain brothers of the Franciscan Order; 
 prominent among them Fray Juan Torribio , known as Moto- 
 linia. For many years it was the most important Franciscan 
 temple in the New World, and to the lovers of old cathedrals 
 and the memories which brood over them it is unusually at- 
 tractive. History does not mention the date of its completion, 
 albeit it does say that the foundations were allowed to settle 
 for ten years before the side walls were built up from them. 
 “ It is a typical example of the austere Early Franciscan Style 
 (comp. p. cxxix) with its modicum of adornment, its battle- 
 ments, and its exceptionally low dome, that evidently was con- 
 structed solely with a view to interior effect.” It stands on a 
 somewhat abrupt slope overlooking the lower part of the 
 town, and extends clear across one side of a large, walled-in 
 space which once formed the Franciscan Monastery garden: 
 a part of this monastery, which formerly adjoined the ch., is 
 now the Bishop’s Palace — el arzobispado. Time was when the 
 garden was noted for its fine olive-trees; it is now a dusty, 
 jejune space, sadly neglected, and occupying, with the ch. and 
 its dependencies, an entire square. The main entrance faces 
 the Primera Calle de Hidalgo , with a side entrance on the 
 Avenida Morelos , opposite the Borda Garden. From the main 
 gateway one gets the best view of the massive structure, gray 
 and solemn, with its dependent chapels and the half-ruined 
 tombs let into the outer walls. Most of these tombs date from 
 about 1850: some are wantonly neglected; others have been 
 opened and their contents removed, leaving gaping hollows 
 exposed. A desire to decipher the old epitaphs is promptly 
 overcome by the filth which is permitted to accumulate at the 
 base of the walls. Many stone slabs with obliterated names 
 lie scattered about the yard, and to enter the ch. one must 
 walk over the graves which honeycomb the atrium. 
 
 As one approaches the building across the yard, a good view is had 
 of the immense flying buttresses which, used as a constructive expedient 
 by the Spanish builders, impart such an air of solidity to it. The chap- 
 trels and the bold arches which connect the chapel, at the r.. to the main 
 ch., are fine examples of early architecture. Note the wide-spreading 
 fig-tree to the left of the entrance, and the skull and cross-bones which 
 crown the pointed arch above the huge, boss-studded doors. These are 
 swung on pivots let into the floor below and into a soffit of the cross- 
 beam above, and have smaller doors cut into the large ones. The iron 
 nails, some with ornamented heads, reveal the influence of Mahomme- 
 dan Spain. (These same nails, with decorative door-knockers, are con- 
 stantly to be found on Mexican ch. doors and on those of old Spanish 
 houses. The workmanship of the knockers is often elaborate.) 
 
Cathedral. 
 
 CUERNAVACA 
 
 46. Route. 445 
 
 The Cruciform Interior is notable for the remarkable length of the 
 single nave, the effect of which is increased by the unbroken barrel- 
 arched vaulting: the magnificent proportions are striking. The pre- 
 dominating note of the new and restless decoration is white and gold, 
 and this compares somewhat irritatingly with the original time-stained 
 pilasters. Four large altars, each supported by four massive Ionic pillars, 
 are let into the sides of the nave, and their apparent newness is out of 
 harmony with the old walls. The twelve massive concrete, marbleized 
 columns which support the Altar Mayor impart a bizarre and somewhat 
 top-heavy effect to it. The most conspicuous feature of this is the life- 
 size figure oi the Virgin surrounded by figurines and by numerous silver 
 and brass candlesticks holding yellow wax candles; the left transept 
 contains a curious gilt coffin and a reclining figure of Christ with realis- 
 tic bandages and a face expressing agony. The large mural painting 
 (evidently inspired by the apocalypse) on the E. wall of the right tran- 
 sept is fantastic in conception. Almost filling this transept is an elab- 
 orate white and gold altar surmounted by a female figure holding aloft 
 a blue wreath with the words — Ave Gratia Plena. The central figure, in 
 a glass case, is a life-size statue of the Virgin of Bethlehem. To the 
 r. of this transept is the almost deserted Sacristy with a huge wood figure 
 of Christ on the Cross, characterized by all the sanguineous and appall- 
 ing details which appeal so strongly to the illiterate. The next room, 
 the old refectory, is hung with some ancient pictures of no merit. From 
 this room we pass into a cloister-like garden surrounded by open cor- 
 ridors; the one-time, flower-embowered retreat of the Franciscan Bro- 
 thers. Retracing our steps we enter the nave, which is paved to repre- 
 sent aisles, with a central line of crudely-made sun-baked bricks of 
 a type used by the Romans to construct the Coliseum, and which the 
 traveller will see frequently in the older structures of India and China, 
 and in the ruined edifices of Persia and Arabia. Flanking the centre are 
 hand-hewn boards secured to the beams by flat-headed wrought Spanish 
 nails. The timbers are like those used in the old Spanish galleons, and 
 it is easy to believe that they might have formed a part of the clumsy 
 vessels, which brought the first Franciscans to the New World. Every 
 plank is a sounding board, and when one treads them the footfalls re- 
 verberate through the high-vaulted room. A bold arch springs quite 
 across the room at the end of the nave opposite the high altar, and sup- 
 ports the coro ; an immense space occupied by a shrinking little organ : 
 beneath is a doorway leading out to a covered cloister-like promenade. 
 To the 1. of this exit is a small niche with a curious little figure of Mon- 
 tezuma. Many household articles, bequeathed by departed devotees, 
 are features of the interior of the Cathedral ; which imparts the impres- 
 sion of a more or less gloomy wine-cellar of unusual proportions, deco- 
 rated in all the colors of the rainbow. Cracked mirrors in gilt frames, 
 tawdry vases filled with waxen and paper flowers, statuettes, rings for 
 the fingers of the Virgin, quaint miniatures, candlesticks and whatnot 
 fill almost every niche. The confessionals which stand near the altars 
 bear the marks of centuries, and look ready to fall by their own weight. 
 But though illy kept and indifferent in its decorations, this old Cathedral 
 is still a sturdy reminder of the great days which followed the Conquest. 
 Its battlemented walls — more like those of a fortress than of a church 
 — have no doubt looked down upon many a singular gathering of mailed 
 warriors, cowled monks, shaven-pated friars and haughty Spanish Dons. 
 Could its high-springing, sound-echoing vault throw back some of the 
 many confessions and invocations to which it has listened, it could, may- 
 hap, tell strange, and perchance, thrilling stories of the harsh days of 
 conquest and of iron-handed but lion-hearted Spanish soldiery. Many 
 a pensive nun, with clasped hands and downcast eves, has perhaps paced 
 the great garden now shorn of its olive groves, and manv an undecipher- 
 able romance sleeps in the crumbling tombs. The old structure takes on 
 additional interest when one reflects that history was made here 25 years 
 before Shakespeare was born, and that mass was said on the site nearly 
 100 years before the Pilgrim Fathers sighted Plymouth Rock. If the 
 inanimate stones could feel, they would surely lament their departed 
 glory, and the heroic days of the Invasion. 
 
446 Route 46 . 
 
 CUERNAVACA 
 
 Churches. 
 
 The Tower , 1 strikingly graceful in form despite the clumsy marring of 
 its upper portion by the recent “improvement,” was rebuilt in 1721. It 
 contains a clock presented to Heman Cories by the Emperor Charles V 
 when the latter made him the proprietor of the princely domain that 
 includes this entire valley. The great weights of this clock, which still 
 runs, swing almost to the ground, within the tower wall, and are wound 
 up at intervals by a mechanism at the top. The upper structure has been 
 toppled to the ground more than once by earthquakes, and the present 
 belfry is modern. The tower should be ascended for the sake of the 
 view, which is very fine. The tiny chapel at the r. wing of the ch., with 
 its small buttresses, quaint gargoyles, and crumbling belfry, is attractive. 
 
 The Chapel of the Tercer Orden de San Francisco, in the S.-W. corner 
 of the Cathedral yard, was built by the order of Cortes and is as old as 
 the Cathedral. “The side portal, with its half dome, is a notable feature. 
 The crude ornament of the elaborate facade — its execution manifestly 
 left to the free hands of Indian artisans — strongly suggests in its bar- 
 baric quality the perpetuation of Aztec traditions. Very curious is the 
 way in which the ornament of the facade is carried into the base of the 
 tower.” Note the quaint worm-eaten doors (true vermiculated work), 
 mediaeval in appearance, swung on huge bolts fitted into sockets, and 
 studded with hand-wrought Spanish nails. The chapel is cruciform, and 
 the high altar contains a magnificent Churrigueresque reredo covered with 
 gold leaf. To the r. of the entrance is a curious old painting of Christ 
 carrying the cross — evidently one of a series of Stations of the Cross. 
 
 To the 1. of the entrance to the garden, at the foot of the walk that 
 leads past a line of tombs let into the street ( Calle Hidalgo) wall, is a 
 chapel with a well executed figure of the Mater Dolorosa. The buttresses 
 of the outer walls are hoary with age. A line of oval windows with 
 quatre-foil adornments admit light into the chapel. On a certain day 
 of each year a somewhat curious service, that of blessing the animals, 
 is enacted in the ch. yard. Cows, burros, horses, dogs, pigs, and a host 
 of animals, birds, and whatnot are brought hither to receive the priestly 
 blessing and to be sprinkled with holv water, — an alleged talisman 
 against disease and disaster for the coming year. 
 
 The Church of Nuestra Seflora de Guadalupe (PI. B, 4), erected by 
 Le Borde's son, — at whose death the vast inheritance fell to the clergy, — 
 adjoins the Borda Garden on the N., and w r as used by the Borda family 
 as a chapel. Maximilian and the Empress Carlota also worshipped here; 
 entering and leaving the ch. through the side doors which open into the 
 garden. Time has not dealt generously with this structure. The towers 
 have fallen long since, — toppled from their place by earthquakes, — and 
 one has been replaced by a clock with the date of 1887. Wasp-nests 
 cling to the crumbling facade, many generations of plants have left 
 their dried and rustling remains in the angles, and the massive carved 
 and nail-studded door looks as if it were made of the timbers of the first 
 ship that reached Mexican shores. Four tolerably well carved santos 
 with half-obliterated features look down from the facade, and, in niches 
 formed for them, are four female figures representing the seasons. The 
 ch. is without an atrium, and is shaped like a Latin cross with clipped 
 transepts. The nave is floored with worm-eaten planks studded with 
 flat-headed wrought Spanish-nails, and flanked by quaint Spanish wood 
 
 1 Among the many worthy friars who followed the Great Captain to 
 New Spain were some with the commercial idea strongly developed. 
 Their particular line of ecclesiastical “ graft ” was church building. Where 
 contributions could not be wrung from the simple and credulous Indians 
 by force, other and more subtle methods were employed. One of these — 
 perchance the prototype of our present day “church sociable” — was 
 the “ unfinished church.” Albeit gratuitous Indian labor could erect a 
 colossal Cathedral within a few decades, the finishing touches on one of 
 the towers often required centuries, and ostensibly baffled the skill of 
 the astutest architects, notwithstanding the zealous and indefatigable 
 efforts of the acquisitive padres to collect the needful. The fact that 
 the apex of the tower of this church was completed in 1882, 3£ centuries 
 after the foundation stones were laid, is significant. 
 
Excursions. 
 
 CUERNAVACA 
 
 Jfi. Route. 447 
 
 benches of undoubted antiquity. The large painting, near the entrance, 
 of the Virgin receiving the crown, does not altogether lack sentiment, 
 but it is a copy of one by a more skilful workman. Note the tinsel 
 offerings pinned by devotees to the bottom of the canvas. Above the 
 Altar Mayor , supported by four massive pillars at the end of the nave, 
 are three cherubim holding a flowing scroll on which is Non Fecit 
 Taliter Omni Natione (comp. p. 398). In the centre of the altar is a 
 picture of the Virgin of Guadalupe , patroness of the ch. In a corner at 
 the right of the tabernacle stands a curious old wood wheel of bells, like 
 a colonial spinning wheel, with a row of 40 small bells set in the rim; 
 when it is turned, the effect is that of a set of sleigh-bells in motion: 
 the object no doubt being to represent the music of a celestial choir. The 
 small rooms to the r. and 1. of the high altar are filled with maimed saints 
 rendered useless during years of service. A large picture of the Trinity 
 adorns the 1. transept, and one of the Virgin of Bethlehem hangs in the r. 
 transept (painter unknown). Long streamers in the national colors 
 pend from the high cupola, whose windows, in the absence of a clerestory, 
 admit light. In a wood frame hanging against the wall to the r. of the 
 entrance is a proclamation of Pope Leo XIII, in which he “grants to 
 the faithful adherents of the Church of Nuestra Sefiora de Guadalupe, in 
 the Episcopal city of Cuernavaca, freedom from the tortures of Purgatory 
 for a period of ten years.” The ch. is the chosen shrine of the many 
 Indians who dw r ell in the neighborhood. 
 
 The Capilla de Guadalupe (PI. B, 2), in the Plaza de Cortes, at the 
 junction (top of the town) of the Primera Calle de Matamoros and the 
 Ave. Morelos, is an Oriental sort of kiosk or chapel enclosing a polychrome 
 figure of the Virgin of Guadalupe. Tradition relates that a son of Ht rnan 
 Cortes is buried here. A half obliterated inscription relates that it was 
 erected in 1538, which is doubtful. To the r. is a ch. in course of erection. 
 The Iglesia de los Tepetates (PI. C, 3), on the crest of the hill at the top 
 of the la Calle del General Ortega, is interesting only for its time-stained 
 exterior, with its still stanch buttresses and immensely thick -walls. 
 The wheel of bells in the interior is a replica of that at the Guadalupe ch. 
 The paintings of persons cured by the special intervention of the Virgin 
 are on a par with those at Tlaltenango (p. 448). The Iglesia Catolica 
 Mexicana (PI. C, 3), at the junction of the l a Callejon de Degollado and 
 the 3 a Ave. de Guerrero, is uninteresting. 
 
 Excursions. Many pleasant excursions are possible from 
 Cuernavaca, and an unusual number of attractive spots are 
 within easy walking distance. Passable auto roads lead 
 country ward to various points. A pleasant ride is to Cuautla , 
 described at p. 406. The most popular one day excursion is to 
 the locally celebrated Cacahuamilpa Caverns described in 
 detail at p. 454. The manager of the Hotel Morelos will arrange 
 for autos, lunches, etc. In hiring burros it is advisable to have 
 the driver ( arriero ) come along, otherwise these sleepy and 
 contumacious beasts may refuse to andar (walk). The bright 
 boys who usually hang about the hotel and offer to serve as 
 guide are cheaper and just as efficient as men. Long distance 
 excursions can be made cheaper by a party of three or four — 
 who can share the cost. 
 
 a. To El Parque (PI. D, 2), source of much of the water which courses 
 through the town; on foot in 15 min. The park lies within £- M. of the 
 rly. station, on the near side. We proceed to the top of the town, pass- 
 ing the Correo and the Morelos baths, bear to the r. and head for the rly. 
 station. Near the fine old acueduclo is the public laundry ( lavanderia ) 
 where many lavanderas are usually at work ruining the linen of the towns- 
 people. We pass beneath a second aqueduct, climb a hill contiguous to 
 
448 Route 46. CUERNAVACA Tlaltenango. 
 
 the spot where lies the Amatitlan or “stone of victory ” (an Indian relic), 
 then pass under the lee of a ruined chapel standing on a hill, and emerge 
 at el parque, a cool, tree-embowered spot with many fountains of bub- 
 bling, plunging water. The wide basins are equipped with sprayers which 
 throw the water into the air and produce fine rainbow effects. Some of 
 the ojos de aqua (water-eyes) bubble up from the sand and resemble 
 miniature spouting volcanoes. Clumps of fine bamboos, stately fresnos, 
 and many willows cast a grateful shade and make the spot restful and 
 attractive. Passing out through the gate near the small house at the 
 top of the terrace we bear to the 1., ascend the hill and come to the 
 Oolonia Miraval (PI. C, 2), founded in 1907. The Calzada Leandro 
 Valle (from the rly. station to the town) and the Porfirio Diaz Bridge 
 (built by Government at a cost of S50,000), and the Chamilpa gorge flank 
 the colony on the town side. The Paseo, or main highway, is bordered 
 by parterres of flowers, and the three glorietas command entrancing dews 
 of the hills and valleys. The little barranca on the 1. with its Japanese 
 bridges and graveled path is attractive. The source of the fine stream 
 of water which flows through the Colonia is in the hill to the r. of the 
 stone bridge spanning the barranca. We follow the small raised and 
 plastered viaduct which curves round the hill to the r. until we reach a 
 stone casement and an iron gate. The main tunnel is dry and clean, 
 about 1 M. long, with side passages which admit light and open onto the 
 barranca, adown which one gets attractive views. Note the footprints 
 of the foxes and other small quadrupeds which roam the tunnel at night. 
 The stream was struck in 1907. By crossing the bridge and bearing to 
 t^e r. around the crest of the hill, we emerge on the Calzada de Tlalte- 
 nango, and the Pueblo and Church (see below) lie about ^ M. to the r. 
 Returning through Miraval, we descend into the tiny barranca along the 
 gravelled foot-path, follow the course of the stream, pass beneath the 
 acueducto , and emerge on the main road to Cuernavaca. 
 
 b. Church and Pueblo of Tlaltenango (PI. B, 1), 3 M. from the plaza, 
 over a broad road ( Calzada de Tlaltenango ); burro, 50 c. A good pedes- 
 trian can make it in ^ hr. We follow the Calles de Malamoros to the 
 Plaza de Cortes, and continue along the straight road leading N. The ch. 
 spire is visible in the distance. The much travelled highway was formerly 
 the old diligence road (or C amino Real of the Spaniards) over which treas- 
 ure trains went from the capital to Acapulco. Many pack-burros come and 
 go, some laden with long pine beams ( vigas ) from the woods near the 
 Tres Marias; beams which drag along the ground and stir up clouds of 
 dust. Lines of small houses flank the roadway; Miraval is on the r. and 
 the old Panteon on the 1. Some fine old fresnos and sabinos overshadow 
 the quaint fQuntain in the triangular plaza which faces the ch. at Tlalte- 
 nango, a wealth of flaming Bougainvillaea hangs over the garden walls, and 
 several tall pines stand in the ch. yard, to the r. of the road. A bizarre 
 tower and a new iron balcony (above the main entrance) are the chief 
 features of the ch. exterior. The broad, walled-in atrium is paved with 
 grave-stones, and a number of tombs are ranged along the walls of the en- 
 closure. The most prized object in the ch., which is dedicated to the San- 
 tisima Virgin del Pueblo de Tlaltenango, is the alleged miraculous figure, 
 which stands about two ft. high, on a finely chased silver vase, in a glass 
 case at the High Altar. It is clad in a rich yellow embroidered silk skirt, 
 embellished with gold lace and surmounted by a thin gold crown. At the 
 base of the altar is a picture, in low relief, depicting a group of friars and 
 Indians discovering the image, whose authenticity was recognized by a 
 Papal Bull of Pope Gregory XVI, of June 14, 1836. 
 
 The interior of the ch. with its single nave and white and gold altar 
 is clean and attractive. The sanctuar 3 r appears to be the chosen battle- 
 ground of the cockerels of the pueblo, who adjust their differences there 
 and leave not a little of their plumage at the foot of the altar. The 
 chapel at the 1. of the main altar has some curious paper figures of anti- 
 quated children, sheep, horses and goats. The most interesting sight, 
 after the figure of the Sanlisima, is the lot of 150 or more crude paint- 
 ings hanging beneath the organ-loft just within the doorway. They are 
 manifestly the work of some village sign-painter with a meagre experi- 
 ence, and they appear to form a comprehensive directory of the prole- 
 
San Antonio. 
 
 CUERNAVACA 
 
 46. Route . 449 
 
 tariat. The colors, the lack of perspective, and the crude workmanship 
 are distressful. Some of the pictures show men and women on sick beds, 
 or in the act of falling off bridges, being run over by wagons, attacked 
 by bandidos, burned, bitten by dogs, and otherwise maltreated: the whole 
 forming a category of crime, misery and accident difficult to associate 
 with the annals of so small and somnolent a place. Each picture bears 
 a miniature of the Virgin of Tlallenango or of Guadalupe , and the in- 
 scription tells of marvellous escapes and cures brought about at critical 
 moments by these benign patronesses. As tokens of gratitude and 
 esteem the “cured ’’ones have left wads of hair, photographs, — some 
 of which look as if taken by Daguerre himself, — ears of corn, green-glass 
 goggles, crutches, and specimens of chirography anything but flattering 
 to the talent of the village pedagogue. At a table nearby are sold pic- 
 tures of Nuestra Sehora de Tlallenango , and ribbons giving the exact 
 measurement of her head. 
 
 Before essaying the return journey, proceed to the top of the hill be- 
 yond the ch. and enjoy the splendid panorama of the valley and the 
 encircling hills. The church among the trees to the 1. is Santa Maria , 
 the choice of the Indians but with no interesting features; that to the 
 r. is the Chapel of Chamilpa. The little pueblo at the crest of the hill is 
 Huichilac, long a post-station on the road between Cuernavaca and 
 Mexico City. Several fine haciendas hereabout were destroyed during the 
 revolution, along with cane mills, aguardiente factories, etc. 
 
 c. El Salto de San Antonio (St. Anthony’s Falls), a pleasant walk 
 3 M. to the W. (PI. A, 4). Guide unnecessary. Carriage for the round 
 trip $1-1.50; horse $1 for the a. m. Burro 50 c. In any case the last 
 fifth of the journey outward must be made on foot as the road is too 
 precipitous for either horse or vehicle. Carriages go and come the same 
 way; pedestrians usually choose for the outward journey a picturesque 
 route (see below) unavailable for horse or carriage, and return by the 
 highway. We proceed to the S.-E. corner of the Borda Garden , turn 
 sharply to the r. and follow the narrow, cobble-paved lane — Callejon 
 de la Borda — which dips down hill and flanks the side wall of the gar- 
 den. At the base of the mirador at the S.-W. corner of the garden is a 
 junction of four foot-paths: we choose the one which descends (W.) 
 into the ravine and leads to the old viaducto spanning the barranca. 
 The view from this point, up and down the gorge and to the blue mts. 
 that cut the S. sky line, is very attractive. For three centuries or more 
 this weather-beaten old bridge (built by the order of Cortes, and still an 
 admirably preserved example of the solidity of Spanish masonry), has 
 withstood the assaults of time and of the earthquakes which frequently 
 shake the district. It is tinted gray with the coloring of ages, but looks 
 strong enough to defy the withering touch of time and to stand up for 
 another century or so. It was over this gulch that the Spaniards and 
 their Tlaxcalan allies scrambled to the defeat of the Tlahuican defenders 
 of the town. The rather stiffish climb up the opposite hillside is a bit 
 wearisome for ladies, but once on the crest of the hill we secure a fine 
 retrospective view of the town beyond the ravine, of the deep barranca 
 bright with wild flowers and green with many banana trees, and of the 
 noisy little rivulet churning and bubbling its way to lower levels. Half- 
 way up the hill, on the r., is an Indian hut where several native potters 
 can be seen fashioning the crude ware for which the region is locally 
 celebrated. Groups of bright-eyed Indian girls bearing tall crates of 
 earthenware on their shoulders are often met wending their way town- 
 ward. 
 
 The time-stained Indian church of San Antonio, with a pink facade 
 and a stuffy (and uninteresting) interior, stands at the r. of the path 
 where it intersects the San Antonio road. We follow this highway (N.) 
 between lines of small potteries where many Indians are at work. A 
 stream of cool water flows by the roadside and serves as a laundry to the 
 families of the neighborhood, beside supplying them with drinking wa- 
 ter. The quaint huts of the natives stand in clean-swept yards, beneath 
 flowering trees, under which are mats with drying coffee. Naked chil- 
 dren, noisy turkeys, pariah dogs, chirping birds, and hee-hawing burros; 
 walls covered with flaming cacti, a wealth of red and white roses, of 
 
450 Route 46 . 
 
 CUERNAVACA 
 
 Chapultepec . 
 
 oleanders, papayas, mangoes, and scarlet coffee-berries are ever present 
 features. The natives are as a rule gentle, industrious, obliging and 
 reticent. The smaller pieces of pottery cost 10-25 c.; water-bottles with 
 crude decorations of broken glass, 37-75 c. Better pieces can generally 
 be found in the Cuernavaca market, where a wider selection is possible. 
 Bargaining always necessary. 
 
 About t> M. from the church we come to a lane which leads downward 
 to the 1. Carriages stop here. The falls are within 10 min. walk. We 
 follow the fence as it trends to the 1. and continue along the narrow, 
 rocky road to a lane between stone walls overhung with vines. To the 
 r. is a large yard with a pottery establishment. Beyond a point in the 
 1. wall, where wooden bars give ingress to a pasture, stands a big tree 
 half embedded in the stones. The highway descends precipitately into 
 the barranca, but instead of following it we climb the wall (to the 1.) 
 and thread a narrow but well-defined path along the brink of the gorge. 
 The path soon ends at a short series of steps cut out of the hillside. A 
 winding path crosses a succession of terraces cut from the over-hanging 
 cliffs; continuing beneath them we emerge on a rocky platform over- 
 looking the pool. Here we obtain a beautiful view of the cascade as it 
 plunges over the cliff and drops to the dark, bubbling pool below. Nu- 
 merous song birds make their home in the dense undergrowth about this 
 cool oasis, and the walls contain many small lizards (harmless). If there 
 are snakes in the vicinity they usually keep discreetly in the background. 
 To the lover of nature's beautiful extravagances, this is a charming spot 
 to visit and re-visit. It needs only a quaint pagoda, a dainty tea-house, 
 or a Shinto shrine to make it a transplanted bit of old Japan, for it is 
 the embodiment of the style of landscape which far-eastern painters de- 
 light to reproduce on porcelain or on screens and bizarre lacquer trays 
 or stands. 
 
 The stroll homeward usually adds a succession of pretty vistas and 
 contrasts to the journey. The splendors of a semi-tropical simset are 
 generally seen to great advantage from the crest of the hill, and the charm 
 and restfulness of the twilight are enhanced by the picturesque figures 
 of Indians hurrying homeward across the fields. At the intersection of 
 the lane with the Cantina de San Antonio we may return whence we came, 
 or, which is better, diversify the way, bear to the 1. and follow the car- 
 riage road to the quaint old Pant eon, with its tangle of shrubbery and 
 its single shaded walk. Here the calzada bends sharpb 7 to the r., merges 
 into an old Spanish military road and crosses the barranca over a stone 
 bridge. (By continuing along the main highway past the cemetery gate, 
 and crossing the hills to the r., we come to the Calzada de Tlaltenango, 
 with Miraval on the r.) Far to the r. of the bridge is the old r iadycta 
 which we traversed on the outward journey. Proceeding along the bridge 
 and climbing the opposite slope, we thread the Calles de Alpuche to the 
 Ave. Morelos. Crossing this, and the small Plaza de Zaragoza, then en- 
 tering the Segunda CaJle de Degollado, we soon emerge at its intersection 
 with the Arc. de Matamoros. The Plaza Juarez is at the r. 
 
 d. Church of Chapultepec (PI. E, 3), about 3 M. from the Plaza 
 Juarez. Beyond the ch. (\ M.) is a wild and shaded spot, La Fttente 
 ( the fountain), where a brawling brook boils and tumbles across the 
 highway and rushes away beneath a tangle of vegetation. Best reached 
 on foot, as the carriage ride would invite a jolting one would not soon 
 forget. Burro 50 c. A fairly good foot-path flanks the roadside; time 
 about 1 hr. from the hotel. Guide unnecessary. The country is safe; 
 the spires of Cuernavaca are always in sight, and the people one meets 
 are polite and inoffensive. Children enjoy this excursion, as they can 
 wade the shallow brook and pick brilliant wild-flowers by the roadside. 
 Bevond la fuente the alleged highway is worse than iniquitous, and recalls 
 the whimsical lament of the poet: “The valleys are gardens of Eden, 
 but the roads are those of Hell.” 
 
 We follow the street that dips past the Palacio de CortSs on the clock- 
 tower side, croas the depression flanked by the quaint homes of the 
 natives, and climb the rocky 7 road to the crest of the hill. The settlement 
 at the left is Amaiitldn: the church (down the side road) is dedicated 
 to San Luis Obispo. As we quit the town, the country road passes 
 
Atlacomulco. 
 
 CUERNAVACA 
 
 46. Route. 451 
 
 between low walls of volcanic stone which enclose gardens idealized by 
 handsome flowering trees and shrubs. Far to the 1. is the rly. station. 
 On certain stretches of this highway the air is perennially balmy with 
 
 I fragrant orange-blossoms, and the yellow globular fruit can be seen 
 hanging low over the roof-trees of the native huts. Coffee, lemons, man- 
 goes, zapotes, and a host of fine fruits grow in wanton profusion, usually 
 amid a wealth of double-red and dregs-of-wine roses that would make 
 the fortune of a metropolitan florist. The country is crossed and recrossed 
 by tinkling streams of mountain water, and the abundance of moisture, 
 an ardent sun and a rich soil combine to produce a flora delightful and 
 
 I almost endless in variety. Some of these flowers are unknown to other 
 climes and some bear Indian names quite unpronounceable by foreign 
 tongues. Notable among them are the beautiful Y oloxochitl (p. 443) and 
 the Izguixochitl, the latter with a fragrance akin to that of a musk-rose. 
 Floripondios (a Peruvian flower) abound and contrast sharply with the 
 | Omnipresent, brilliant Flor de la N oche Buena. The bright crimson berries 
 ! of the coffee-tree are almost hidden by the white, star-like blossoms of 
 unformed fruit, for in this generous climate trees and shrubs often bear 
 flowers on one branch and fruit on another. The district is the haunt 
 of many iridescent humming-birds (comp. p. 217). The snow-capped 
 cone of Popocatepetl looms grandly ahead. 
 
 The Church of Chapultepec imparts the impression of an edifice long 
 used by the “quality,” then presented to the Indians. The exterior 
 decorations are those of a crazy-quilt. The body is pink, — a favorite 
 Indian color, — the single tower is pink and blue, the huge wooden door 
 is a dirty yellow and the rest of the structure is stained with a tint that 
 only centuries can impart. The interior is not worth looking at. Strang- 
 ers will do well to rest content with an exterior view, since small-pox 
 ( viruela ) sometimes ravages this region and the afflicted Indians, always 
 overburdened with a bizarre entomological congress, take all their sor- 
 rows to the feet of their patron saint. 
 
 To come to La Fuente we continue along the highway till it surmounts 
 . the next hill and dips into the valley beyond. When halfway up the 
 i opposite slope we turn sharply to the r. and descend into the ravine 
 whence comes the sound of singing waters. On the far side of the stream 
 t is a time-stained Spanish aqueduct. The restfulness of the spot, the 
 view of the environing foliage and of the giant trees is attractive and 
 well repays one for the journey. Many lovely ferns grow near the cool 
 water, and scarlet coffee-berries are as thick as “high-blues” in New 
 England. After the torrent falls over the incline at the base of the road- 
 way, it spreads in a miniature rapid which sings and whimpers on its 
 way to join the mother stream at a lower level; furnishing, in its travels, 
 water and power to the old sugar-mill of Atlacomulco , described below. 
 
 e. The Sugar-Mill oi Atlacomulco was founded by Hernan Cortes 
 in 1535, and is consequently the oldest crushing-mill ( ingenio de azucar) 
 on the continent. The structure stands in the centre of the Pueblo de 
 Atlacomulco , a mere cluster of mud huts 2 miles E. of the Cuernavaca 
 plaza. A good walker can make the journey in two hrs. Burro, 50 c. 
 The stable-boy who accompanies the animal as a driver (fee of 25 c. 
 
 1 advisable) wili make an acceptable guide. If the trip is made in the fore- 
 | noon a broad-brimmed hat is almost indispensable, as on the homeward 
 J trip the sun beats full on the back of the neck. Acapacingo, the Emperor 
 Maximilian’s country residence, can be visited on the return journey by 
 making a short detour to the 1. The trip to both places can be made com- 
 fortably on burro-back (50 c. inclusive) and without haste in one fore- 
 noon. The panoramas from the crests of the hills are beguiling 
 
 We follow the road which leads past the W. (left) end of Cortes' Palace , 
 cross the barranca, climb the opposite slope and bear sharply to the r., 
 skirting the gorge. The volcanoes loom ahead and the myriad wild-roses, 
 flaming coffee, and Bougainvillaea relieve the toilsomeness of the road. 
 The long bridge ( Puente de Aguila ) which we cross just before reaching 
 the mill ( molino ) was once the favorite resort of bandidos. The mill, a 
 long, rambling structure, terminating at the S. in a small chapel, bears 
 the marks of great age. Here sugar was crushed from the cane 85 years 
 before the Mayflower anchored in Plymouth Harbor. The walls around 
 
452 Route 46 . CUERNAVACA Acapacingo. 
 
 the workmen’s huts are made of discarded pottery moulds in which the 
 pilones (cones) of sugar are formed. Sugar is still made here for the 
 owner of the property, the Duke of Terra Nova y Montdeone, a direct 
 descendant of the Great Captain. The vast fields whence the cane is 
 ootained stretch away eastward from the town. We pass beneath the 
 great arched entrance (no permit necessary and no fees) midway of the 
 building and cross the patio to the cane-crushing department (tablet), 
 added in 1852-53. All that part of the edifice to the r. of the entrance 
 is modern. The bronze bell aswing above the office of the administrador 
 is modern and is used to call the men from the fields. The crushing 
 season is between Jan. and July; the juice not distilled into aguardiente 
 (brandy) is poured into pottery cones set in a framework in the floor 
 and allowed to crystallize into the pilones of commerce. Corncobs and 
 bagasse are burned as fuel under the great boilers. The water which 
 courses through the mill comes from La Fuente (see p. 451). 
 
 f. Acapacingo (Maximilian’s one-time country residence), see above 
 and comp. PI. E, 4. We return along the main road from the sugar-mill 
 to its intersection with a by-path leading (J M.) to Acapacingo , near a 
 quaint chapel surrounded by a wealth of flowering trees. Facing this is 
 a tile-covered gateway and the inscription “ Antigua Casa del Emperador 
 Maximillano .” A bi-lingual sign fastened to the gate-post advises that 
 an entrance fee of 25 c. is charged. Only an imperial caprice could have 
 induced the harassed Emperor to desert the restful house in the Borda 
 garden for this damp and tawdry bungalow. There is nothing to see but 
 a tumble-down shooting-lodge, and a swimming-pool, once the delight, 
 it is said, of the Empress Carlota. The historical association is all that 
 makes the place interesting. We return by a narrow lane much smoother 
 than the highway to Atlacomulco. After a few turns, with the town spires 
 always in sight, we re-enter Cuernavaca along the road which parallels 
 the palacio in the rear. 
 
 g. The Teocalli of Tepoxtepec, near the Indian pueblo of Tepoztlan, 
 can be reached from El Parque station (p. 435), but Cuernavaca is usually 
 made the starting-point, as better horses are obtainable here and the 
 trip can be planned to greater advantage. One full day is sufficient for 
 the round trip. Charges for horses and guide about the same as to 
 Xochicalco (p. 453). The ruins are those of a temple and a citadel 
 ( templo y ciudadda ) poised on the summit of acerro which rises 1,200 ft. 
 above the surrounding plain and commands a splendid panorama of this 
 and the distant valley. They are supposed to have been erected by the 
 Tlahuicas (a Nahuatl tribe which peopled Cuernavaca at the time of the 
 Spanish invasion) about the year 1200. The templo which once occupied 
 the top of the pyramid is now almost obliterated, only the walls remain- 
 ing. In the lower apartments are the ruins of a fountain, and a brasero 
 where aromatic resins were burned as incense to the gods. When this 
 enclosure was cleared of debris (1895) some copper vessels and many 
 obsidian arrow-heads were found — the latter evidently launched bv 
 besiegers against the defenders of the place. At the base of the lower wall 
 is a huge stone bench with some notable carvings in bas-relief; among 
 them a figure representing a tobacco-pouch ( allataxtli ) in the form of a 
 tiger’s jaw with a fastening ( malinali ) represented by a clinched claw. 
 In the N. wall, embedded in the plaster which holds the huge volcanic 
 stones together, were found many arrow-heads of volcanic glass. The 
 main temple once contained a locally celebrated Indian idol, Ome-toxtli , 
 or two-rabbits, the god of inebriety, to which came pilgrims from many 
 distant places The idol was dethroned, broken into bits and buried by 
 the Spanish Friars in 1523. A number of nonsensical legends refer to a 
 powerful cacique, one Tepoxtecatl , who is said to have dwelt here in ages 
 past, and to have been renowned for an unusual prowess. Every year on 
 a certain day (a movable feast) the Tepoztlan villagers (who speak pure 
 Nahuatl) hold a sham battle to commemorate the valor of this departed 
 cacique, and the credulous Indian women bring flowers to the temple. 
 A wooden tower, representing the teocalli , is erected in the centre of the 
 plaza , and around it are raised shacks supposed to be the village of the 
 enemy. Squads of Indians clad as warriors assault the position only to be 
 beaten off. The performance winds up in a drunken orgy. Of greater 
 
Xochicalco. 
 
 CUERNAVACA 
 
 4.6. Route. 453 
 
 interest to the visitor is the Museo de Tepoztlan (free), housed in an 
 ancient chapel known as the house of Martin Cortes, and also as the 
 Casa de la Cadena (house of the chain) because of a curious bit of Indian 
 sculpture above the doorway. This house (wherein the son of the Great 
 Captain is said to have lived) probably dates from 1540. 
 
 h. El Cerro de Xochicalco (hill of the flowers), near the Indian village of 
 the same name, is about 18 M. west of Cuernavaca, on the road to the 
 Cacahuamilpa cavern. The trip can be made in conjunction with a visit to 
 the cave, and also to the old Hacienda de Cortes. Auto, guide, etc., can be 
 arranged for with the help of the hotel manager. The cerro stands in the 
 midst of a broken but picturesque country, and unless one is particularly in- 
 terested in ancient ruins the time spent in a visit will scarcely repay one. 
 
 , Inferior ruins can be seen near the Cuernavaca station, and vastly superior 
 ones at San Juan Teotihuacdn, described at p. 425. Archaeologists find the 
 i Xochicalco ruins interesting, but less so than those of Yucatan or Palenque. 
 j The Indian hamlets in the neighborhood call for no particular mention. 
 
 The ruins crown the summit of a hill whose point rises some 300 ft. 
 above the surrounding country. “Who the builders of this pyramid 
 were, no one can tell. There is no tradition of them, or of their temple. 
 When first discovered ( Cortes and his men travelled past here in 1520 
 on their way to Cuernavaca and they were the first white men to visit 
 the ruins), no one knew to what it had been devoted, or who had built 
 it. It has outlasted both history and memory. No one who examines 
 the figures with which it is covered can fail to connect the designs with 
 the people who dwelt and worshipped in the palaces and temples of 
 Uxmal (p. 580) and Palenque (p. 567). The base of the eminence on which 
 the ruin stands is surrounded by the very distinct remains of a deep and 
 | wide ditch; its summit is attained by five spiral terraces; the walls that 
 support them are built of stone joined by cement, and are still quite 
 perfect, and at regular distances, as if to buttress these terraces, there 
 are remains of bulwarks shaped like the bastions of a fortification. The 
 summit of the hill is a wide esplanade, on the eastern side of which are 
 still perceptible three truncated cones, resembling the tumuli found 
 among many similar ruins in Mexico. El Castillo (castle), on the top of 
 the last terrace, is a rectangular building, measuring above the plinth 
 64 ft. long by 58 deep on the western points, and faces in exact cor- 
 respondence with the cardinal points. The hill on which the castillo 
 rests commands the whole valley, save for another cerro to the east, and 
 a commanding view is had of the surrounding hill and plain, thickly 
 covered with volcanic debris, and barrancas everywhere dividing the 
 surface. Two lovely lakes lie far to the S. This cerro is directly S. from 
 the Valley of Mexico, and the lights of the people who occupied it must 
 have guided the ancient Aztecs as they came from their capital, going 
 south, for it is in full view from the mountains. The stones of the crown- 
 ing surface are laid upon each other without cement, and kept in place 
 by their weight alone; and as the sculpture of a figure is seen to run over 
 several of them, there can be no doubt that bas-relief work was cut 
 after the pyramid was erected. Stones 7 ft. in length by nearly three in 
 breadth are seen here, and all the great blocks of porphyry which com- 
 posed the building, and perhaps encased the entire cerro, were brought 
 I from a distance, and borne up a hill three hundred ft. in height.” Be- 
 neath the structure on the summit is a series of caverns opened about 
 fifty years ago. According to an Indian tradition they extend beneath 
 j the mts. surrounding the Valley of Mexico and connect with the much 
 venerated cave of the Cerro de Teutli, near Lake Chaleo and the pueblo 
 j of Tulyahualco, as well as with the caverns of Cacahuamilpa (described 
 below), — which is highly improbable. 
 
 i. The Caverna (cavern) or Grutas (grottos) de Cacahua- 
 milpa, 46 M. S.-W. of Cuernavaca, in the State of Guerrero, Dis- 
 trito de Alarcon , and M unicipalidad de Tetipac, are the largest 
 known caves in Mexico and are visited by many Mexicans 
 and foreigners. 
 
 While many auto parties make the trip from Mexico City, 
 
454 Route 46 . CUERNAVACA C acah ua m ilpa. 
 
 it is less fatiguing, particularly for ladies, if the start is made 
 from Cuernavaca. Autos can be arranged for with the aid of 
 the hotel manager at M. C. or Cuernavaca. The Cerro de 
 Xochicalco (p. 453) can be inspected en route, if so desired. 
 Luncheon and a duster, or macintosh, should be taken, and an 
 early start made. Guide unnecessary, as the cave is in charge 
 of government employees who conduct parties through (no 
 fees). At a point beyond Puente de Ixtla , thence to the parking 
 place near the entrance to the gruta , the road is cut from the 
 mt. side and is so narrow that two autos cannot pass. In con- 
 sequence, autos reaching this point after 2 p. m., are not al- 
 lowed to proceed until all the cars coming from the cave have 
 passed. It is also advisable to be at the entrance to the cave 
 not later than 11 a. m., at which time the personally conducted 
 party usually starts on the tour of inspection. The inward 
 trip takes about 2 hrs.; the outward trip \ hr. Autos are 
 customarily started back at short intervals after 2 p. m. 
 
 From Cuernavaca the highroad crosses a broken but pictur- 
 esque country, dotted with Indian hamlets, suga r-haciendas f 
 and cut by deep, wide barrancas. The cane-fields originally 
 were planted by the soldiers of Cortes, who also built some of 
 the mills. In places the narrow road is cut from the shoulder 
 of the hill. At 10 M. we skirt the Hacienda del Puente , with 
 a big mill and a water course. At 11 M., Xochitepec, the road 
 turns sharp right at the plaza, then left, and crosses the shallow 
 river of the same name. Beyond the river and pueblo of Al - 
 poyeca the road crosses a wide plain to Puente de Ixtla. Beyond 
 that point the ride is unattractive until the highway enters the 
 hills, where the scenery is picturesque and the country lonely. 
 
 Cacahuamilpa, in the Aztec tongue a place where cacao 
 beans (or peanuts) grow, is an Indian hamlet perched on the 
 slope of the foothills jutting out from a commanding range of 
 mts. which separates the states of Guerrero and Morelos. A 
 few poor houses, a small church and some straggling callejones 
 (lanes) are the chief features of the place. 
 
 The higher slopes of the hills are bleak, but many handsome 
 flowering trees and shrubs flourish in the humid depths of the 
 barrancas , through which plunge and swirl a number of cool 
 streams. The grutas which have taken the name of the town 
 were discovered in 1835 by police who tracked a criminal to 
 the entrance. Since that time manv passages and salons have 
 been explored, and this work is still in progress. 
 
 Though not as extensive as the great Mammoth Cave of 
 Kentucky, with its 223 avenues, 12 million cubic yards of 
 galleries and passages, 57 cupolas, 1 1 lakes, 7 rivers, 8 cataracts, 
 32 wells and its matchless acoustic properties, Cacahuamilpa 
 is interesting, and is regarded by Mexicans as one of the 
 sights of the country. General U. S. Grant visited the cave in 
 1847, while the American army was in Mexico, and wrote of 
 
CACAHUAMILPA CAVE 46. Route. 455 
 
 it. The Empress Carlota, Maximilian’s brilliant consort, 
 inspected the cave in 1866, and on one of the walls she wrote the 
 now almost obliterated words: ‘Maria Carlota reached this 
 point.’ Sebastian Lerdo de Tejada (an opponent of monarchies, 
 and president of Mexico, ad interim , after the death of Benito 
 Ju&rez in 1872) visited the cave (in 1874), and beneath the 
 memory-awakening inscription scrawled the significant phrase : 
 ‘ Sebastian Lerdo de Tejada paso adelante ’ (went beyond). 
 
 The formation of the interior is like that of the Mammoth 
 Cave, and similar elements brought it into being. Some of the 
 stalactites (formed by water containing limestone in solution 
 percolating through the roof) are of enormous weight and 
 several yards in length, and it is estimated that to have ob- 
 tained a growth of six or more feet in length and a weight of 
 several hundred pounds (through the medium of the infinitesi- 
 mal quantity of lime in each drop of water) more than a thou- 
 sand years were required. There are many salas, and from 
 the roof of each pend these fine stalactites, while corresponding 
 stalagmites often reach up from the floor to meet them. Some 
 of these vaulted ceilings are immensely high, with notable 
 acoustic properties. At certain places the floor is covered with 
 globulous concretions called conjites (comfits), caused by the 
 fixing of carbonate of lime around the eggs of hermipterous 
 insects, the Corixa fermorata and Notonecta unifasciata, of the 
 family Notonectidce (boat-flies, or back-swimmers). 
 
 The magnificent portal, or entrance to the salas beyond, 
 is 70 ft. high by 150 ft. wide, with rocks so symmetrically dis- 
 posed that the whole resembles the work of some builder of 
 titanic arches. When artificially lighted it suggests a spark- 
 ling fairyland. The caprice of visitors and explorers has 
 endowed the salas or halls, with fantastic titles. One section, 
 rough underfoot, is called the Pedregal. The Sala del Chivo , 
 named for an agglomeration of stalagmites resembling a huge 
 goat, was the terror of the Indians, who believed it encantado 
 (enchanted) until some one broke and carried off its head. 
 This sala is 200 ft. long, 70 ft. wide, and 150 ft. high, and the 
 walls show green and orange tints. 
 
 The Salon de los Organos, a vast amphitheatre named for a 
 huge stalactite resembling an organ, contains many irregular 
 stones which a lively imagination could convert into benches 
 and seats; some of the stalactites give forth a clear, bell-like 
 note when struck. The Salon de las Palmas (of the palms) is 
 very beautiful, with palm-shaped stalagmites that glisten like 
 alabaster. There is a Sala de la Fuente (fountain); Salon del 
 trono del Rey (the king’s throne) ; Salon del Bautisterio (bap- 
 tistery); Sala de la Emperatriz (empress); and the Plaza de 
 Armas, so-named for its resemblance to the Zocalo at Mexico 
 City, with its flanking cathedral, etc. The guide points out 
 all the interesting places. 
 
456 Rte. 47. STATE OF MORELOS 
 
 The State of Morelos (named in honor of the revolutionary patriot 
 Jost Maria Morelos), with a population of 160,500 and an area of 7,184 
 sqr. kilom., is bounded on the N. by the Federal District, on the W., 
 N.-W. and S.-E. by the State of Mexico, on the E. and S.-E. by the 
 State of Puebla and on the S. and S.-W. by Guerrero. Magnificent moun- 
 tain chains cross the region, which is marked by rail peaks, deep valleys, 
 gorges, waterfalls, luxuriant tropical vegetation, fine sugar-haciendas , 
 Indian temples, towns and citadels. The Ajusco range separates the 
 state from the Federal District and is visible both from Cuernavaca and 
 the Valley of Mexico. In the N.-E. are the Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl 
 ranges, while the Huitzilac, Tepoztlan and Santo Domingo ranges extend 
 from W. to E. till they meet the Tlayacopan mountains. The distinguish- 
 ing peaks of these rugged ridges are Y epac, Cloluica and Ocotecatl. Chief 
 among the notably fine barrancas is Amatzinac (with a river of the same 
 name) in the Popocatepetl foothills. Many of the rivers of the state are 
 plunging mountain streams; cold and rapid. The largest, the Amacusac , 
 formed by the San Geronimo and the Chontalcuailan rivers, traverse £fie 
 state from E. to W. The principal lakes and lagoons are the Tequezqui- 
 tengo and th e Coatetelco, in the Dictrito de Tetecala , and the Hueyapan 
 in the municipalidad de Cuernavaca. A peculiar and very interesting 
 feature of the Tequezquitengo laguna is that it covers the site formerly 
 occupied by the Indian pueblo of that name. Some 50 years ago the 
 ground roundabout the town began to subside and the place was grad- 
 ually engulfed. 
 
 The Climate is hot in the southern and central regions, cold in the 
 northern or mountainous districts and temperate on the mountain slopes. 
 Malarial fevers are not uncommon in the lowlands. The Fauna and 
 Flora are rich and varied. The forests contain fine woods, and the 
 flowers and agricultural products are those of the temperate and the 
 torrid zones. The state is celebrated for its delicious fruits; and, owing 
 to the richness of the soil, nearly every district produces some unusually 
 fine variety. Tlayacopan is renowned for its delicious plums; Totolopan 
 for its chirimoyas ; Tlalnepanila for peaches; Jonacatepec for limes and 
 pitahayas ; Y autepec for mameyes and oranges; Oaxatepec for bananas; 
 Tetecala for cocoa-nuts; Jojutla for melons, and Cuernavaca for mangoes 
 and guavas. Sugar-cane is produced in large quantities, and many sugar 
 estates — chief among them the old estate of Herman Cortes — lie con- 
 tiguous to Cuernavaca. This region is also renowned for the production 
 of chocolate, quince-wine and a delicious sweet made from the fruit of 
 guava and called quay abate. A similar sweet, made from quince and 
 called membrillate, is shipped to many parts of the Repub. The annual 
 export value of cane products — sugar, rum and molasses — is about 
 three million pesos. 
 
 47. From ( Mexico City) Cuernavaca to Puente de 
 Ixtla, Iguala and Balsas. 
 
 173 Kilom. One train daily (through from Mexico City, Rte. 46) in 
 7 hrs. 
 
 Cuernavaca , see p. 436. The line curves to the 1. and follows 
 the ridge on which the town is poised. As we descend the val- 
 ley we get beguiling views of the town dominated by ch. spires, 
 on the r., and of Popocatepetl, Iztaccihuatl and Ajusco on 
 the 1. 132 K. Mango, so named for the delicious mangoes which 
 grow in the neigh borhood. The Mexican variety, which pre- 
 dominates here, resembles a fine apple with rosy cheeks. 
 It is less popular than the pale yellow Manila mango with 
 its strong turpentine flavor and it sells for % the price of the 
 latter. 
 
Tax co. 
 
 IGUALA TO TAXCO 48. Route. 457 
 
 139 K. Vicente. 143 K. Sollano. 156 K. Treinla. The country grows 
 more and more tropical and we traverse a land of beautiful hills and 
 dales dotted with sugar-plantations. 162 K. Zacatepsc. 163 K. San 
 Nicolas. 168 K. Hermosa. 172 K. Vidal. 181 K. Puente de Ixtla, 
 terminus of the Morelos Division of the Interoceanic Rly:, Rte. 49, p. 461 . 
 183 K. Amor. 190 K. Cajones . We enter the State of Guerrero . celebrated 
 for its revolutionary heroes, its fabulously rich mines, undeveloped 
 resources, Indian ruins and earthquakes. 201 K. Santa Fe. 213 K. 
 Vista. 219 K. Pimentel. 224 K. Los Amantes. 231 K. Naranjo. 
 
 238 K. Iguala (2,411 ft.), pop. 12,000, one of the largest and 
 most important towns ( Distrito de Hidalgo ) in the state, is 
 known politically as Iguala de Iturbide } for the celebrated 
 “ Plan de Iguala ” of the “ Three Guarantees,” and as the place 
 where (Feb. 24, 1821) Mexican Independence was proclaimed. 
 A giant obelisk to commemorate this is one of the projects of 
 the local government. The town lies in the centre of a rich 
 mining and agricultural district with many huge tamarind 
 trees. It was visited in April, 1907, by one of the most destruc- 
 tive earthquakes in its history; many houses were destroyed, 
 and some of the old historic buildings were badly shaken. Cab 
 from the station to the town, 25 c. For a continuation of the 
 journey see p. 458. 
 
 48. From Iguala to Taxco. 
 
 Taxco, an old and highly picturesque town, lies about 5 hrs. ride 
 (horse or mule back, $2 to S3) to the N.-E. at the end of a mountainous 
 road. The south-bound traveller whose destination is Taxco can save 
 time by planning to have horses meet him at Naranjo station, 1 hr. 
 nearer than Iguala. The road winds up and down the mt. sides and along 
 the edges of precipices where only the most sure-footed animals (mules 
 are preferable) can pass in safety. Juan Ruiz de Alarcon y Mendoza, poet, 
 dramatist, and a prominent figure in the Spanish literature of the 17th 
 cent., was born in Taxco , and the first silver sent from the mines of New 
 Spain to Europe was obtained from those of Taxco , discovered in 1522. 
 
 “ Taxco (says Mr. Baxter) holds foremost place in the charm of pic- 
 turesque enchantment. Spreading itself over a slope at an altitude of 
 about 5,000 ft. above the sea, the little city is sheltered from inclement 
 winds by the giant precipices of ruddy stone that rise perpendicularly 
 above it, rejoicing in a perfect climate and an air that is tonic and kindly. 
 Extending over the irregular ground the mass of quaint buildings, 
 roofed with red tiles, is threaded by a maze of narrow streets. There is 
 not a wheeled vehicle in the city, for the place is inaccessible by such 
 means. The streets are paved with pebbles laid level from house to house 
 without sidewalks, and are ornamented in mosaic patterns here and 
 there. There is no dust and the thoroughfares are models of cleanliness. 
 Out of the midst of all this irregularity of ravines, arches, bridges, steps, 
 and terraces, rises the great church — the dominant note in a scene that 
 recalls some of those wonderfully picturesque places in Spain. In such 
 a landscape the florid ornateness of the towers is not excessive in effect. 
 The great dome, decorated with glazed tiles in vivid masses of color — 
 ultramarine, orange, green and white — seems, in the intense sunlight 
 of the place, like the blossoming of some gigantic tropical flower pro- 
 claiming in the language of form the immortal words inscribed upon the 
 frieze of the drum : ‘ Gloria a Dios en las alturas ’ — Glory to God on the 
 heights — as the Spanish version renders it most fittingly for this occa- 
 sion. 
 
 “This church of Taxco, dedicated to San Sebastian y Santa Prisca, was 
 erected by the famous mining magnate Jose de la Borda (comp. p. 441) 
 and completed in the year 1757. A very large portion of his fortune 
 
45S Route 48. IGUALA TO TAXCO 
 
 Balsas. 
 
 having been derived from his extensive and extraordinarily profitable 
 mining properties at Taxco, he built this superb church in gratitude for 
 the benefits received. The cost is variously estimated from one to 8 
 millions of pesos. Everything about the ch., even to-day, indicates that 
 the purpose of the founder must have been to excel everything previ- 
 ously done in Mexico and to spare no expense in reaching that end. It 
 is perhaps the most complete monument of ecclesiastical art that exists 
 in the western hemisphere. It even surpassed that of the Valenciana 
 (p. 144) as a splendid example of what may be called a ‘mining church.’ 
 These two churches are perhaps the two finest instances of their kind 
 ever erected in all Mexico, as they certainly are the finest now existing. 
 And having been preserved in their original condition with scrupulous 
 care they are invaluable monuments of past magnificence. An un- 
 pleasant quality is imparted to the Taxco ch. by the same contraction 
 of the tower-bases that in a worse degree appears in the Tlaxcala ch. of 
 Ocotlan (p. 428), producing an overhang in the ornate part of the towers 
 and correspondingly weakening the total effect while unduly narrowing 
 the facade. Doubtless the impression made was something deliberately 
 aimed at, the disproportional effect of loftiness not seeming undesirable 
 in the period when the ch. was designed. Had the towers fundamentally 
 been given the full width of the cornices the effect would have been 
 immensely better. As it is, there is a sacrifice of the massiveness that 
 commonly characterizes this feature in Spanish-Colonial architecture. 
 It w’ill be noted that the ornament of the facade has more of the Rococo 
 than the Chur rig ueresque character. The latter style, however, obtains 
 in the elaborate 7 etablos of the interior. There are twelve of these, includ- 
 ing the three in the All Souls Chapel, the CapiXla de Todos Muertos. The 
 interior, though lacking in repose in its surfaces, is splendid in its effect 
 of exceeding richness. Moreover, its mural decoration, by the hand of 
 one painter throughout, imparts a sense of unity that goes far to offset 
 the disquieting feeling of uneasy decoration in structural parts. Besides 
 the pulpit there are two confessionals, and all three are richly carved in 
 dark wood. The floor, which in recent years was relaid in a polished light 
 wood, w’as originally entirely covered with a superb great India carpet 
 imported by way of Manila and Acapulco. A fragment of this is still 
 preserved in the sacristy, where it serves as a rug. The pendentives of 
 the dome are occupied by reliefs in gold, representing the Guadalupe 
 legend. The mural decorations are entirely by Miguel Cabrera (p. cli) 
 and the famous painter shows at his best in this work. The upper part of 
 the two bays that are occupied respectively by the side entrance and by 
 the entrance from the ch. into the chapel of Todos Muertos are occupied 
 by great canvases depicting the martyrdoms of the two patron saints 
 of the ch., San Sebastian and Santa Prisca. The organ, built in 1806, in 
 design and color harmonizes w r ith its surroundings. The sacristy is a 
 magnificent room. The walls are covered with huge canvases by Cabrera 
 — a beautiful Nativity at the head, and Ascension of the Virgin at the 
 opposite end, and twelve scenes from the life of Christ and of the Virgin 
 filling six art panels at the sides. The furnishing of the sacristy is 
 extraordinarily rich — carved tables, chairs, estanles , and heavy gold 
 ornamentation for the two pairs of mirrors, the Crucifix, the lavamanos , 
 etc. In the sala capitular , or chapter-room, are portraits of Borda and 
 other dignitaries, by Cabrera .” The atrium is in the form of an open 
 plinth, reached bv four short steps. It is the custom of many of the 
 towns-people to pray before the ch. An early morning assemblage, 
 kneeling and facing the entrance, leaves a pleasing impression. The 
 towers should be ascended for the sake of the view, which is very fine. 
 
 Iguala, see p. 457. The rly. runs toward the S.-W. through 
 a beautiful country drained by tributaries of the Balsas River. 
 257 K. Cocula. 262 K. Apipilulco. 274 K. Olea. 284 K. Arroz. 
 
 293 K. Balsas, present terminus of the line. Many produc- 
 tive mines lie to the S. and W. of the town. The Placeres de 
 Oro district is reached by a raft or boat which shoots the Rio 
 Balsas Rapids. (See next page.) 
 
CHILPANCINGO DE LOS BRAVOS ifi. Rte. 459 
 
 Rafting on the Rio Balsas (pools) is exhilarating and delightful 
 sport. The boatmen are Indians who know every bend and rock on the 
 river, and they shoot the rapids with great dexterity. The finest of these 
 shallow falls occur between the Balsas Rly. Sta. and the town of Coyuca 
 de Catalan, the landing-point for the rich mining district of Placeres de 
 Oro (Gold Placers) 4 hrs. distant (horseback) over a mountainous road. 
 The trip is made (18 hrs.) in flat-bottom barges (25 ft. long by 7 ft. wide) 
 made of parota wood and manned by five or six lusty Indian rivermen. 
 A bargain should be reached before embarking. The usual charge for 
 the journey is $100 for the trip from Balsas to P. de Oro. Double this 
 amount to the Pacific Port of Acapulco, 5 days’ journey from Balsas. 
 (17 days are required to haul the boat up the rapids from P. de O. to 
 Balsas.) Provender should be taken along, as the food the Indians might 
 furnish (for a price) would be distasteful to foreigners. A steam-launch 
 service for this river is contemplated. 
 
 The most dangerous rapids are met stern foremost, and as no tiller or 
 helm is used, the craft is managed by two oarsmen at the bow and a pair 
 at the stern, while the captain stands at the stern and guides it by means 
 of a stout oar. Hunters will find the trip full of opportunities. Alligators, 
 crocodiles, deer, ducks, geese, and small game abound. White and pink 
 herons are often seen. In certain districts “ gold ships” dredge the river, 
 bringing up gold-bearing sand from the bottom. Miles of auriferous 
 gravel are found along the stream. We encounter one of the worst rapids 
 at Tomistlahuacan, 2 hrs. from Balsas station. The boat dashes through 
 the water at high speed, and skill is required to keep it clear of the rocks. 
 The scenery is magnificent — a succession of mountains, fine barrancas 
 and valleys, along which one catches glimpses of blue-peaked ranges 
 beyond. We reach Tetela del Rio 9 hrs. after leaving Balsas, and soon 
 thereafter we come to the estuary of the Teotepec River. Camp is made 
 for the night at a spot near Pezoapan, 3 hrs. further down. At daybreak 
 the journey is continued through a wild and picturesque canon. Beyond 
 the gorge is a fine valley region, studded with little towns, prominent 
 among them Santo Tomas, San Cristobal, Ajuchitldn, Tepehuala and 
 San Miguel Totlapam. The river broadens (100 to 300 yards wide) and 
 toward dusk the boat is beached at Coyuca de Catalan. Travellers bound 
 for Placeres del Oro will have no trouble in securing mounts for the jour- 
 ney, but a bargain should be struck with the stableman, who should 
 also furnish a mozo as a guide and to care for the horses. $2 to $3 for a 
 horse is ample. 
 
 Ghilpancingo de los Bravos, known also as Ciudad Bravos (in honor of 
 the revolutionary heroes Nicolas, Leonardo and Miguel Bravo), capital 
 of the State of Guerrero (pop. 7,497), is 78 M. S.-W. of Iguala and is 
 reached therefrom on horseback ($8 to $10 for the trip) over a fair road. 
 A better highway, suitable for carriages and a diligence line, is one of 
 the government projects. The town lies in the centre of a highly volcanic 
 district, picturesquely situated in a fertile valley on the bank of the 
 Huacapa River, near the arroyo of Apatzingo. Many fine fruit orchards 
 surround it. Fine palm hats and mats are made in the neighborhood. 
 The first Mexican Congress was celebrated here Sept. 13, 1813. The 
 town formerly contained many quaint and interesting edifices, some of 
 them of great historic value to the Mexicans, but repeated earthquakes 
 have about ruined them. The shock of Feb. 1902 was particularly severe 
 and 600 or more houses were destroyed. The fine bronze statue of 
 Nicolas Bravo in the Plaza de Armas, was broken at the waist and the 
 bust tumbled to the ground. The earthquake of April, 1907, killed and 
 injured scores of persons and destroyed many of the buildings that 
 survived the prior temblor. Chilpancingo (Aztec = place of the wasps) 
 is mentioned as one of the sources whence Montezuma drew some of the 
 gold which so dazzled the Conquistador es. Many beautiful gold orna- 
 ments of rare and antique workmanship have been exhumed in the 
 vicinity. Archaeologists assert that the mysterious race which once 
 dwelt here was cultured, and lived on an intellectual plane far above 
 that of the Aztecs. Their craftsmen were unusually adept, and the 
 metal articles fashioned by them exhibit a taste and skill but little 
 inferior to the best modern work. To the N.-W. of the town are extens- 
 
460 Route 4 8 . STATE OF GUERRERO Acapulco . 
 
 ive ruins that were perhaps hoary with age when the first Spaniard 
 lauded in Mexico. Certain hieroglyphs on the ruins of the stone buildings 
 resemble Egyptian characters, and the copper and gold ornaments, and 
 the ancient objects disinterred attest a degree of civilization more closely 
 allied to the Toltec than to the Aztec. 
 
 The Maritime State of Guerrero (warrior), named for the Mexican 
 insurgent General Vicente Guerrero (pop. 479,205, area 64,756 sqr. 
 kilom.), a rough, mountainous and but partly explored region (one of 
 the richest mineral sections on the continent), is bounded on the N. by 
 the states of Mexico and Morelos, on the N.-E. by Puebla, on the E. and 
 S.-E. by Oiixaca and on the S.-W. by the Pacific Ocean. Coast-line 500 
 kilom. The principal port is Acapulco (below). The Sierra Madre del Sur 
 traverses the state and reaches its highest point at the Peak of Teotepec 
 (9,333 ft.). The Climate, with a mean temperature of about 90° Fahr., 
 is cold in the mountains, temperate in the valleys lying 6,000 ft. or more 
 above the tierra caliente, and hot on the coast. The Fauna and Flora, 
 though known to be rich and varied, are not all recorded. The former 
 embraces over 55 species of mammals, 80 birds, 50 reptiles, 5 batrachians, 
 40 fishes, and countless insects. More than 150 trees, many of them fine 
 cabinet and dye-woods, are known to thrive within the state borders. 
 There are 75 known fruits, 33 textile plants, 17 tanning, 15 oleaginous, 
 25 dye, 10 forage, 20 aromatic, and as many poisonous plants, beside 200 
 medicinal plants, 40 gums and resins, and almost numberless ornamental 
 shrubs and flowers. In the vast tropical forests are cedar, oak, mahog- 
 any, laurel, pine, ebony, mangrove, and a host of forest trees, prominent 
 among them a native tree known as quiebrahacha (break- axe), on ac- 
 count of its exceeding hardness. The fruits are as numerous as they are 
 delicious. Bananas, oranges, pineapples, lemons, limes, pomegranates, 
 guavas, cocoa-nuts, tamarinds, mangoes, mamayes, aguacates, chico- 
 zapotes, and an almost endless variety of tropical and sub-tropical 
 fruits are found. The chief products are sesame seeds, cereals, tobacco, 
 vanilla, coffee, cacao, cotton, sugar-cane, indigo, yuca (p. 547), mid 
 cattle. Cattle-ranches are numerous, the value of the stock being 
 estimated at S3, 000, 000. Wild animals are numerous in certain regions. 
 Wild-boar, leopards, ounces, deer, armadillos, wolves, coyotes, and 
 badgers are common. Many beautiful birds people the forests, and white 
 herons, ducks, pheasants, chachalacas, widgeon, and divers haunt the 
 lowlands and marshes. Pearl-fisheries exist along the coast near Aca- 
 pulco and Tecpan , and much of the tortoise-shell one sees in Mexico comes 
 from this district. Petroleum springs are found in the district of Tabares. 
 Many mountain streams dash from the highlands to the coast, where 
 they mix their waters with those of the Pacific Ocean. The most impor- 
 tant river is the Mexcala , or Balsas, which enters Guerrero from Oaxaca 
 on the E., crosses the state, penetrates Michoacan , where it is known as 
 El Rio de las Balsas, and after a run of 700 kilom. it empties into the 
 Pacific near Zacatula. It is navigable for steamers for a few miles only 
 from its mouth. In places it is shallow, swift, and precipitous, in others, 
 wide and deep. The mines (incompletely developed) produce gold, 
 silver, mercury, lead, iron, coal, and sulphur. Granite and marble are 
 quarried, and three varieties of opals and topazes are found. The mines 
 in operation number about 350. The Caves of Cacahuamilpa (p. 454) 
 rank among the largest caves in America. In certain districts, notably 
 about La Trinidad , some of the natives are afflicted with a species of 
 leprosy called Pinto. Black spots come out on the face and spread until 
 the entire face is covered with a blue-black blotch w r hich imparts a repul- 
 sive appearance. An Indian legend avers that it first came from eating 
 crocodile meat. The disease, which rarely attacks foreigners, is perhaps 
 contagious only through contact. It is also prevalent in certain parts 
 of Chiapas Stale (p. 569). 
 
 Like others of the Mexican states, Guerrero needs only capital and enter- 
 
 f )rise to bring its many riches into profitable fruition. The traces of petro- 
 eum which have been found lead experts to believe that some day oil may 
 be located there in quantities as great as in Vera Cruz and Tamaulipas. 
 The tropical character of the three states is similar. Oil men are already 
 turning their attention thither. Few districts in the Republic possess greater 
 material w'ealth. 
 
MEXICO CITY TO ACAPULCO 49 . Rte . 461 
 
 Acapulco (Aztec — where there are canes, or reeds), a promising port 
 on the Pacific Ocean, 495 Kilom. from Mexico City, and with harbor facili- 
 ties for a hundred or more deep sea vessels, slopes back from the shore 
 between a range of low hills, has a pop. of about 6,000, and is known politi- 
 cally as Acapulco de Judrez. Port works are projected which will materially 
 increase its importance. It is one of the oldest and best known of the 
 Mexican port towns. The residents are known as Acapulcanos (and Acapul- 
 quenos , as). 
 
 Steamships. The big steamers of the Mexican States Line ( Hudson , 
 Billings & Co. agents), the. Pacific Mail S. S. Co. ( Hudson , Billings & Co. 
 Agts.), and the Mexican Navigation Co. ( B . Ferndndez & Co. Sues., agentes ) 
 maintain a frequent service northward to Canada and southward to Central 
 America. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). El Jardin, El Pacifico; rates from $2. up per day. 
 
 In 1532 the Spanish Brigantines San Miguel and S. Marcos sailed hence 
 and discovered Colima, a number of islands, and the Gulf of California. 
 The Mexican Protomartyr, San Felipe de Jesus (p. 325), sailed from this 
 port in 1591 for Nagasaki, Japan, where he was killed. The port was 
 stormed and taken by the patriot Morelos in 1813. A big annual fair is 
 held here. Acapulco was long the port of entry for the rich Spanish galleons 
 from the Philippines. Bret Harte, in his “ Lost Galleon,” referred to Acapulco 
 as follows: 
 
 “ In sixteen hundred and forty-one, 
 
 The regular yearly galleon, 
 
 Laden with odorous gums and spice, 
 
 India cotton and India rice, 
 
 And the richest silks of far Cathay, 
 
 Was due at Acapulco Bay. 
 
 The trains were waiting outside the walls, 
 
 The wives of sailors thronged the town. 
 
 The traders sat by their empty stalls, 
 
 And the Viceroy himself came down; 
 
 The bells in the tower were all atrip, 
 
 Te Deums were on each father’s lip, 
 
 The limes were ripening in the sun 
 For the sick of the coming galleon.” 
 
 49. From Mexico City to Amecameca, Cuauhtla 
 and Puente de Ixtla. 
 
 Interoceanic Railroad (Morelos Division). One through train (to 218 K. 
 Puente de Ixtla) daily in 10 hrs. Two trains daily (in about 5 hrs. — ex- 
 cursion tickets) to 137 K. Cuauhtla, which is also reached from Puebla (p. 
 508, consult the Guia Oficial). Two trains daily to 58 K. Amecameca 
 (in 3 hrs.). Trains from Mex. City depart from the San Lazaro Station 
 (PI. J, 4), \ M. east of the Palacio Nacional, and about 15 min. in a cab, or 
 25 min. in a tram-car from the Buena Vista or the Colonia stations. Rly. 
 restaurant. — For railway fares to the different points see p. xxxi. 
 
 Mexico City, see p. 233. — The train runs due E. through a 
 district not distinguished for cleanliness. These suburbs are 
 among the tawdriest of the capital — and are perhaps the 
 oldest. On the 1. is the big Penitentiary (p. 368) with the 
 Escuela de Tiro — artillery practice school. In the early morn- 
 ing many burro-trains laden with fruits, vegetables, huge bun- 
 dles of chopped hay compressed in big nets, charcoal and the 
 like, pass along this highway bound cityward. Much of the fruit 
 and garden-truck consumed in the capital enters from this 
 direction. At the close of the rainy season the lowlands round- 
 
462 Route 1+9. 
 
 AMECAMECA 
 
 8 aero Monte, 
 
 about are apt to be flooded; then Indian canoeists use the 
 fluvial strips as waterways to the suburbs, while dense flocks 
 of wild-fowl make the region their rendezvous. The hamlets 
 through which the rly. passes call for no special mention. 
 
 After leaving (18 K.) Los Reyes , amid pulque fields, the line winds 
 around the hills and crosses many small milpas (corn-fields) and fincas 
 (country estates). Maize and pulque are the chief products. At (25 K.) 
 Ayolla , Indian women pass to and fro before the cars offering tortillas 
 and native “goodies” of questionable cleanliness for sale. 29 K. Santa 
 Barbara. We cross the rails of the Ferrocarril de Rio Frio 35 K. Com - 
 pai'iia. Crossing of the F. C. San Rafael y Anexas. 42 K. Temamatla. A 
 quaint church (a relic of Colonial days) stands about i M. to the r. of the 
 line. The encompassing land is under high cultivation, with Indian 
 maize as the staple. The line sweeps around the hills on an up-grade. 
 During the rainy season the region teems with wild-flow T ers. 47 K. 
 Tenango. 48 K Tepopula. 53 K. Bautista. 55 K. Ayapango , with a 
 weather-beaten ch. The region is idealized by the splendid cone of 
 Popocatepetl, which rises near. Wooded hills hem in the valley on the 1. 
 The district is finely watered by the cold streams of melted snow which 
 plunge down from the acclivities of the Popocatepetl range. For a con- 
 tinuation of the journey beyond Amecameca , see p. 465. 
 
 58 K. Amecameca (7,600 ft.), a scattered town of 14,000 inhab. — 
 among them many beggars. It stands at the base of the Popocatepetl 
 and Iztaccihuatl mts. (charming views) in the midst of wide milpas , and 
 is celebrated throughout Mexico for the Sacro Monte (sacred mt.) — an 
 elongated hill (about 400 ft. high) immediately at the r. of the rly. 
 station. On the summit of this hill, nestling amid fine trees, on a spot 
 w hich recalls certain of the sacrosanct cryptomeria-embowered shrines 
 of Nippon, is a small ch. built around a cave (now the ch. camarin ) w r hich 
 was once the home of a very holy man, Fray Martin de Valencia, one of 
 the 12 Apostles (p. 324) who reached Mexico in 1523. This pious man 
 was greatl y revered by the simple Indios and after his death his body 
 w’as brought hither and buried in the cave. Time converted him into a 
 santo, and his grave is the Mecca of many thousands of Indians who come 
 hither during Holy Week (Ash Wednesday) to revere his memory. 
 
 They come also to worship an image of Christ, called the Santo En- 
 tierro, said by some to have been made by the good friar himself. Others 
 pin their faith to a number of legends which refer to the alleged miracul- 
 ous origin of the figure. This image, undoubtedly of high antiquity, is 
 very light and is perhaps made of the pith of the maize. The Indians 
 form processions, carry the figure (which reclines in a glass case) from 
 place to place, and conduct impressive and very picturesque ceremonies. 
 A stone stairway, terraced out of the hillside, leads to the shrine, which 
 contains many ex-votos and Indian offerings. Hard by this ch. is 
 the Capilla de Guadalupe, whence a splendid view of the environing 
 country may be had. This chapel and the sacred shrine are figures 
 in a sort of Passion Play which the Indian devotees enact here. Certain 
 of the most frenzied ones follow the Hindu custom of approaching the 
 shrine in a crawling attitude. Others stand in ecstatic positions for 
 hours. A multitude of them hang their unwashed garments on the 
 adjacent trees for the spirit of the saint to bless them — and to purify 
 the polluted air. After nightfall, many of the Indians carry torches, and 
 the effect is weird. 
 
 Prior to the Spanish invasion the town of Amecameca was the metro- 
 polis for a vast Indian population which dwelt in the region roundabout, 
 ltelics of these peoples are the myriad bits of broken pottery, the obsidian 
 arrow-heads and whatnot which can still be picked up in the ploughed 
 fields adjacent. A trench dug across any near-by field usually uncovers 
 Indian graves containing pottery (desirable souvenirs, no restrictions 
 against digging), idols and household gods of clay. The churches, of 
 which there are several, are weather-beaten relics hoary with age. The 
 Pnrroquia (dedicated to Nuestra Sefiora de la Asuncion) was erected (in 
 1709) on the site of a primitive ch. built by the Spaniards in 1547. Many 
 
POPOCATEPETL 49. Route. 463 
 
 of the oldest and most interesting buildings were destroyed by the earth- 
 quake of 1884. 
 
 Amecameca is the usual starting-point for the Ascent of Popocatepetl 
 and Iztaccihuatl. Guides and outfits can be secured at the Inns, which 
 are near the rly. station. The traveller can perhaps work to better 
 advantage by securing his outfit at Mex. City, and picking up guides at 
 Amecameca. The customary plan is to breakfast at the Inn and start (on 
 horseback) about 8 a. m. for the foothills; arrive at La Canada Canon 
 at 11 a. m. and stop 1 hr. for rest and luncheon. Paraja is reached (horse- 
 back) at about 2 p. m., and Tlamacas (12,788 ft.) at 5 p. m. Stop for the 
 night in a hut, or rest-house. Supper at 7; breakfast at 6 a. m. A start 
 (on horseback) is made at 7 a. m., and La Cruz (so-called for a huge 
 wooden cross hard by) is gained (14,104 ft.) at 9. The horses remain here 
 and the remainder of the journey is made on foot. If but little snow is 
 encountered, and the climbers have fortitude and perseverance (neces- 
 sary for the last portion of the road), the summit should be reached about 
 1 p. m. Persons suffering from heart trouble should not attempt to go 
 higher than La Cruz , from which station a magnificent panorama is vis- 
 ible — one which well repays the effort to reach the point. 
 
 The descent can generally be made quite speedily. La Cruz can be 
 reached in from \ hr. to 2 hrs. according to prevailing conditions. The 
 traveller is advised to essav the highly exciting (and not dangerous) ex- 
 perience of sliding, a la toboggan, to timber-line, with the attraction of 
 gravitation as the motive power. When the snow is smooth and does 
 not cake, the journey is made seated on a straw mat ( petate ) guided by 
 an Indian carrying a long alpenstock — a man who knows every foot of 
 the road and who skilfully avoids rocks and crevasses. He seats him- 
 self on the mat, pulls up the front edge, grasps his stick, wnich he uses 
 as a brake, is in turn grasped around the waist by the passenger seated 
 behind him, and, in a vertiginous and extraordinarily exhilarating swoop, 
 the traveller finds himself at snow-line almost before he has realized that 
 he was under way. The station at the snow-line, with its awe-inspiring 
 vistas, is left late in the afternoon; supper is taken at Tlamacas, and 
 breakfast at 6 a. m. The horses are ready and a brisk ride down the 
 slope and across the plain brings one to Amecameca about 10 a. m. 
 
 If the traveller will do considerable walking and some climbing for 
 several days prior to the ascent of the mt. the exercise will strengthen 
 the leg muscles and help him over crucial points. The ascent (which 
 should never be undertaken without an experienced guide) is apt to be 
 interrupted by snow-slides during the rainy season — June-Sept. The 
 trip is usually unattended by danger, as the crevasses are shallow and 
 the “going” is good. The western slope is more precipitous than the 
 eastern. After a cold rain on the plateau the snow-line (which in this 
 latitude is usually at about 14,333 ft.) descends far down the mt. sides, 
 and contrasts oddly with the semi-tropical vegetation at its base. The 
 cost of the ascent varies with the number in the party, and the amount 
 of equipment taken along. The inclusive cost from Mexico City to the 
 summit and return should not exceed $50 each for a small party, and 
 this should be less where there are a half-dozen or more. 
 
 Popocatepetl (Aztec — popoca, smoke, and tepetl, mountain), often 
 referred to as Popo, in the State of Puebla, in latitude 19° 10' 45" N.; 
 and longitude 98° 36' 0" W. of Greenwich, is one of the most interesting 
 volcanoes in Mexico and was, until recently, considered the highest peak 
 in the Republic. It is 10,300 ft. (nearly 2 M.) higher than the Valley 
 of Mexico, and is 17,794 ft. above the level of the sea. Although 50 M. 
 to the S.-E. of Mexico City it dominates that place like some hoary- 
 headed sentinel. With Mt. McKinley (in Alaska) 22,000 ft. first, Orizaba 
 (p. 496) in the State of Vera Cruz second, Popo is perhaps the third high- 
 est peak in N. America. According to Indian traditions it (along with 
 Iztaccihuatl, p. 464) came into being after a violent earthquake presaged 
 by terrifying subterranean noises: the mountains are said to have piled 
 up gradually, vomiting lava and rocks, until they reached their present 
 height. Not until comparatively recent times did Popo cease its spasmo- 
 dic belching of fire and lava. Because of its violent outbursts it has been 
 called the Vesuvius of America. The records of the Spaniards in Mexico 
 
464 Route J>9. 
 
 IZTACCIHUATL 
 
 mention notable eruptions in 1519, 1523, 1539, 1548, 1571, 1592, 1642, 
 16 »4, 1697, and 1802. In 1921 the giant began to show signs of uneasiness, 
 and these culminated, Dec. 19, in a violent outburst of smoke and gasses. 
 Since that date it has smoked quietly at intervals, and exhaled sulohuric 
 vapors from the many breathing holes ( solfateras ) inside the crater. 
 
 Since the Conquest this volcdn has been a gigantic brimstone factory 
 whence many thousands of tons of excellent sulphur ( azufre ) have been 
 extracted. The soldiers of Cortes were the first to take this out, and with it 
 they manufactured gunpowder with which to carry on a successful warfare 
 against the owners of the mountain! More than one hundred million tons 
 were taken out before the last eruption. At that time four centuries of ex- 
 ploitation seemed in no vise to have diminished the supply. 
 
 Volcanists estimate that the crater floor, which covers an area of about 
 I mile, consists of an immense deposit of sulphur a thousand feet deep. 
 Sulphur was taken from it by the crudest methods; laborers descended to 
 the crater floor, gathered the substance in bags of an arroba (25 lbs . ) each, 
 slung them on the backs of peoties , and these climbed to a point where the 
 bags could be drawn up with a windlass and rope worked from the crater’s 
 edge. Once at the surface the bags were given in charge of men who placed 
 them on straw mats and slid with them to timber-line, whence they were 
 carried to the railway station. The workmen walked freely about on the 
 crater floor which, though apparently solid, contained many fissures whence 
 sulphur fumes escaped. Liquid sulphur constantly settles about these 
 blow holes, and in some places it oozes out. The last eruption made many 
 changes in the interior of the volcano. 
 
 The crater ( crater ) differs from that of many volcanoes in that it is 
 bell-shaped. instead of conical: the opening at the top is about 2,700 ft. 
 across and the width at the bottom is about 1,200 ft. The irregular and 
 jagged rim has a circumference of about 1^ M. The longest diameter 
 is from N. N.-E. to S. S.-W. It is lowest on the Puebla side, whence it 
 is usually approached, and here the windlass used for hoisting sulphur 
 from the depths is located. The line from this platform to the floor of 
 the interior is about 550 ft. long, nearly one half a practically vertical 
 wall, formed of trachytic and porphyritic rocks covered at the summit 
 by lava thrown out in past ages. Certain bits of it consist of layers of 
 black lava with crystals of feldspar and brown scoria. Near the hoisting 
 apparatus is a fantastic ridge called the Devil’s Backbone — Espinazo 
 del Diablo. The Pico Mayor , or the highest point of the mt., is very diffi- 
 cult of access. Ice cut from the glaciers near the summit is supplied to 
 the near-by towns on the plain. The view from the summit, particularly 
 at sunrise and sunset, is indescribably grand. The incomparable Valley 
 of Mexico, with the domes and spires of the capital, and the many micro- 
 scopic towns glistening in the distance; the near-bycity of Puebla (which 
 from here merits its title of Ciudad de los Angeles ); the snow-crowned 
 bulk of Iztaccihuatl , the peaks of Orizaba , Xiantecatl , M ailacueyail, and 
 many lesser cones, and the minor details of thousands of square miles of 
 cool highlands and tropical lowlands delight the eye. On a clear morn- 
 ing the sunrise effects on the distant peaks are very fine; as are likewise 
 the violet shadows of nightfall. No peak in Mexico offers a finer pano- 
 rama, unless it be Iztaccihuatl , whence the view includes Popo also. 
 
 Before attempting to take pictures of the crater of Popocatepetl (or any 
 of the other Volcan.es in the Mex. Repub.) the reader may like to refer to 
 Mountain Photography, p. Ixxxa. 
 
 Iztaccihuatl Aztec, iztac = white, and cihuall = woman), 16,200 ft. 
 high, is linked to Popocatepetl by a deeply-curved “saddle ” some 2\ M. 
 long. It is commonly known as the “White Woman,” or the “Sleeping 
 Woman.” from the fancied resemblance to a recumbent female figure. 
 Cortes caused a military road to be built over the “saddle” and along 
 this road he advanced 1519) to the conquest of the Valley of Mexico. 
 The ridge consists of rolling hills free from trees: black volcanic ash, no 
 doubt the outpourings of Popocatepetl , cover the surface. The broad 
 summit of the mt. is covered by three peaks which form the head, 
 breast (the highest point), and the feet of the “sleeping woman.” The 
 timber-line is at about 13,054 ft., and that of vegetation at 13,710. The 
 region of eternal snow begins at 14,300 ft. In their search for sulphur 
 
I ZT ACC I H U AT L 
 
 49. Route. 465 
 
 of which to make gunpowder, the Spanish Conquistador es no doubt 
 climbed Iztaccihuatl, but they left no record of the feat. The German 
 Sonneschmidt reached the summit in 1772, and he was followed, in 1853, 
 by several French engineers. The ascent presents very few of the dif- 
 ficulties which characterize Alpine peaks. Perhaps one of the first to 
 ascend it along the south ar6te, which leads up from the pass facing 
 Popocatepetl, was Dr. W. Freudenberg, of the Geological Institute of 
 Mexico, who calls Izlaccihuatl the “ruins of a volcano.” The summit 
 consists of three elevations, all in pure white snow without a break. 
 The lowest, or S.-E., one presents a cornice on the side of the glacier. 
 The other two tops are so nearly of the same height that the eye cannot 
 detect any difference. Together they make a rolling area perhaps 3 
 acres in extent. The northern point prevents the “Head” of Iztaccihuatl 
 from being seen from the southern point. In the other direction, the view 
 of the glacier and the “Feet,” with Popocatepetl in the distance, is grand. 
 The exploration of the sierras adjacent to Popo and Iztaccihuatl are full 
 of interest to the mountaineer, the naturalist and the geologist. The 
 mts. are entirely surrounded by a zone of vegetation, while clumps of 
 fine trees and an astonishingly varied assortment of beautiful wild- 
 flowers are features of the lower foothills. On these slopes grow plants 
 that are of unfailing interest to the botanist unfamiliar with the wonder- 
 ful plant life of sub-tropical Mexico. The plains which stretch away 
 from the base of the mountains are heavy with Indian relics and they 
 offer a practically inexhaustible field for research. 
 
 Amecameca, see p. 462. The rly. skirts the base of the Sacro 
 Monte and passes near the foot of the road which leads up to 
 the sanctuary. Scores of little Indian huts, many of them 
 straw-thatched like those of Japan or of Korea, dot the corn- 
 fields that stretch away to the W. of the hill. We traverse a level 
 country devoted to the cultivation of several species of fine 
 melons. The grade slopes upward; splendidly-wooded hills 
 mark the sky-line; the air grows rarer and cooler. At (64 K.) 
 Zoyacingo, we pass into a region of pines, cedars and firs ; the 
 landscape recalls the wooded parks of New Mexico (U. S. A.). 
 The plateau here is 8,100 ft. above the level of the sea, and at 
 this elevation the sun loses much of its genial warmth, while 
 the atmosphere carries a tang of April or October at the North. 
 Even the midday shadows are noticeably cool, while the 
 nights are apt to be genuinely cold. The region is a favorable 
 one for tubercular patients; the air is exceptionablv pure and 
 its fine tonic effects are apparent. The land is carefully cul- 
 tivated and wide milpas stretch to the distant hills. We enter 
 a pine woods. About £ M. to the r. of the rly. is the Tecalco 
 Waterfall , and a 20 min. walk down-stream brings the pedes- 
 trian to the fine Salto de Chimal , near the edge of the hot 
 country. 
 
 70 K. Ozumba. The plateau slopes sharply toward the tierra caliente. 
 Beautiful views. We pass the unimportant stations of 74 K. Chimal , 
 and 83 K. Tlacotitlan. 93 K. Nepantla, a poor town celebrated as the 
 birthplace of Sor. Juana Ines de La Cruz (p. cxlix). 100 K. La Re - 
 torta. The land slopes sharply and the descent is rapid. Banana plants are 
 everywhere in evidence, and riotous semi-tropical vegetation succeeds the 
 deciduous trees of the plateau. The region is bathed in the sunshine of a 
 perpetual spring. 106 K. La Cascada. The district is splendidly watered; 
 many fine springs, which have their sources in the mountains and the 
 foothills of the table-land, plunge down the sloping edge of the Great 
 
466 
 
 CUAUTLA HOT SPRINGS 
 
 Central Plateau, and form many cascades and waterfalls. 120 K. Yecap- 
 ixtla. 133 K. Puente Cuauilixco. 134 K. Santa Inez. 
 
 137 K. Cuautla (4267 ft.), a quaint, semi-tropical town 
 (pop. 9,800) in the State of Morelos — whence its political 
 name. Cuautla Morelos. It is one of the most charmingly 
 tranquil of all the Mexican towns, a rendezvous for many 
 people from the capital, and international^' celebrated for 
 hot sulphur springs (called aguas hediondas — evil-smelling 
 water) to which remarkable curative properties are ascribed. 
 The Spaniards knew of Cuautla in 1605, for at that time they 
 founded a settlement around the springs and made of the 
 region a sort of Carlsbad to which they went at stated inter- 
 vals. For centuries the Indians have known of the curative 
 powers of the water, and formerly they made long pilgrimages 
 to bathe in it. It is said to be peculiarly efficacious in rheumatic 
 complaints. Aside from the springs, the spot is a sort of open 
 air sanitarium for dwellers at higher altitudes; Mexico City 
 residents flee to it when pneumonia, influenza, or the altitude 
 affects them, and here they find almost instant relief. An 
 illness extending over many days at Mexico City will usually 
 disappear within a few hours after the victim reaches Cuautla, 
 and this is particularly the case with bronchial disorders. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). The best and most popular among the hotels 
 is the small but cozy and comfortable Hotel San Diego, overlooking the 
 plaza , diagonally across from the railway station. Homelike, good food, 
 clean, pure drinking water, English spoken. American-French. Reasonable 
 rates. Popular with Mexico City residents and tourists alike. Rooms can 
 be arranged for in Mexico City by telephoning to the Banque Fran&iise, 
 Calle Isabel la Catolica, No. 40. Or by letter to the manager at Cuautla. 
 - — In the patio of the hotel is an obse vation platform, perched in the forks 
 of a great Indian Laure tree, where afternoon tea may be had. 
 
 The Hot Springs lie about 2 M. to the N.-E. of the hotel, 
 in a wild and picturesque region. The waters gush forth in 
 great abundance from a low hill, beyond which, and visible in 
 the distance, rises the giant bulk of Popocatepetl — no doubt 
 the source of the spring. The atmosphere in the immediate 
 vicinity of the springs is redolent of the sulphur which bursts 
 in bubbles from the flowing waters. The rocks in the bed of 
 the stream at the base of the hill are covered with a sulphurous 
 furze. The baths are not too hot, and the silken feeling con- 
 sequent to bathing in sulphurous water is delightful. Many 
 wild flowers border the stream as it rushes away to lower levels. 
 Horses and conveyances can be arranged for at the hotel San 
 Diego , but a good walker can easily cover the distance between 
 the hotel and the springs in one-half hour. The country is 
 pleasant and safe. Guide unnecessary. b .'i 
 
 The Climate is thoroughly delightful, tepid but not sticky, 
 and neither hot nor cold. Lying as it does midway between 
 the high Mexican plateau and the tropical reaches of the sea- 
 coast, Cuautla possesses a tropical charm without the usual 
 tropical discomforts. The gigantic shoulder of Popocatepetl 
 
CUAUTLA — PUENTE DE IXTLA 49. Rte. 4G7 
 
 deflects the whining north winds and thus makes of it a 
 splendidly sheltered station where winter is unknown. There 
 are no brusque climatic changes; each golden day is as much 
 like its predecessor as the beads on a rosary, and each follows 
 its fellow in uninterrupted succession. — There is music in the 
 plaza in the evenings. 
 
 To the man from the tropics, the cooler air of Cuautla acts 
 like a tonic, while to the dweller on the tableland whose nerves 
 are set askew by the altitude, the warm air is as grateful as 
 warm water to a chilled bather. Thus it is a place to relax and 
 to rid one’s self of nerve strain. The town seems eternally 
 bathed in sunshine, and it possesses an air of tranquillity and 
 restfulness soothing and delightful to the harried northerner. 
 It is unusually clean and inviting, and like Cuernavaca it is a 
 town of running water. Many cool mountain streams gurgle 
 through the town and fill the fountains in the local 'patios . 
 Cuautla 9 s popularity grows with every visitor, and some day 
 it may win a merited renown on a par with some of the spas of 
 Europe and America. 
 
 The Environs of Cuautla are attractive. Many fine fruits 
 grow in and around the town, and wide sugar haciendas dot 
 the countryside. There are many delightful walks in the 
 neighborhood. The country is open, the people are friendly, 
 and since the demise of Emiliano Zapata (who started a revo- 
 lution here in 1910, and whose tomb is one of the local sights), 
 the countryside is safe. 
 
 The Parochial Church, founded in 1605 and dedicated to 
 San Diego (St. James), is quaint and time-stained. 
 
 The old Conventual Church also dedicated to San Diego , is 
 now used as a railway station, and is perhaps the oldest depot 
 in America. 
 
 Cuautla Morelos is forever enshrined in Mexican hearts 
 because of a heroic struggle there between Mexican troops 
 under the patriot Jose Maria Morelos , and royalist Spaniards 
 led by General Calleja . Morelos and his handful of stout- 
 hearted men found themselves trapped in Cuautla , and were 
 there besieged for nearly three months, during which time 
 they suffered greatly. When the last crust was eaten, and 
 famine stared the determined people in the face, the clever 
 Morelos flouted the Spaniards by a brilliantly executed retreat 
 to safety. 
 
 An automobile road connects Cuautla with Cuernavaca 
 (p. 436), and excursions can be made to that point and the 
 Cacahuamilpa caverns, described at p. 454. 
 
 Between Cuauhtla and Puente de Ixtla the train traverses a country which 
 grows more tropical as we near the coast. 139 K. Santa Ines. 141 K. Cuau - 
 tlixco. 145 K. Calderon 154 K. San Carlos. 160 K. Yautepec. 
 
 218 K. Pu9nte de Ixtla. Connections are made here with the Cuerna- 
 vaca Division of the Rly. Routes 45 and 47. 
 
VIII. SOUTH-EASTERN MEXICO, 
 
 50. Vera Cruz 469 
 
 Practical hi formation: Arrival by Sea, 469. — Railway Sta- 
 tions, 469. — Hotels, 469. — Baths, 471. — Cabs, 471. — 
 Tramways, 47 1 . — Banks, 471 . — Telegraph-Office, 471 . — 
 Post-Office, 471. — Curios, 471. — Bull-Ring, 471. — 
 Steamship Lines, 471. — Climate and Weather Indica- 
 tions, 471. 
 
 Situation, History, and Character of the City . ,472 
 
 Walks and Excursions 474 
 
 Bay and Harbor 477 
 
 History 478 
 
 State of Vera Cruz 480 
 
 51. From VeraCruz to Alvarado (by railway) , thence 
 (by steamboat) to Tlacotalpam, San Cristobal, 
 Cosamaloapam, Chacaltianquis, and Tuxtepec . 481 
 
 The Cocoa-nut Tree, 482. 
 
 52. From Vera Cruz via Cordoba, Orizaba, and San 
 
 Juan Teotihuacan to Mexico City 484 
 
 The Gruta de Atoyac, 485. 
 
 53. Cordoba and Environs 486 
 
 The Indian Village of Amatlan, 487. — Coffee Growing, 
 489. 
 
 54. Orizaba and Environs 489 
 
 From Esperanza to Tehuacan, 495. — El Pico de Orizaba, 
 496. — From San Andres to Chalchicomula, 496. — Pyra- 
 mids of San Juan Teotihuacan, 498. 
 
 55. From Mexico City to Texcoco, San Lorenzo, 
 
 Oriental, Jalapa and Vera Cruz 499 
 
 Texcoco, 499. — The Axolotl, 500. — Castle of Perote, 502. 
 
 56. Jalapa 503 
 
 Historical Sketch, 503. — General Antonio Lopez de Santa 
 Anna, 506. — Excursion to the Pyramid of Papantla, 
 
 506. — To El Salto de Xico, 506. — To Coatepec, 506. 
 
 57. Puebla 508 
 
 Arrival, 508. — Cabs, 508 — Tranvias, 508. — Hotels, 508. 
 
 — Museums, 508. — Baths, 509. — Shops, 509. — Post 
 and Telegraph Offices, 509. — Banks, 509. — Consuls, 
 
 509. — Historical Sketch of the City, 509. — Battle of 
 the Fifth of May, 510. — State of Puebla, 517. — The 
 Falls of Necaxa, 51 7. 
 
 58. Excursions from Puebla 518 
 
 To the Pyramid of Cholula, 518. 
 
 To Atlixco, 521. 
 
 59. From Puebla via Tehuacan to Oaxaca City 
 
 (thence to the Big Tree of Tule, and the Ruins of 
 Mitla) 523 
 
 Tehuacan. 526. — The Hot-Springs, 526. 
 
VERA CRUZ 
 
 469 
 
 60. Oaxaca City 528 
 
 Arrival, 528. — Hotels, 528. — Cabs, 528. — Post and Tel- 
 egraph-Offices, 528. — Consuls, 528. — Banks, 529. — 
 From Oaxaca to San Pablo, 529. — To Ejutla, 529. — 
 Sarapes, 529. — History, 530. 
 
 1. Excursion to the Cerro del Fortin de Zaragoza, 534. 
 
 2. Monte Alban, 534. 
 
 3. To San Felipe del Agua, 534. 
 
 61. Excursion to the Ruins of Mitla 534 
 
 Santa Maria del Tule, 536. — The Big Tree, 536. — The 
 Ruins of Mitla, 537. — History of the Ruins, 540. — 
 State of Oaxaca, 541 . — Indian Tribes, 542. — Cochi- 
 neal, 543. 
 
 50. Vera Cruz. 
 
 Arrival by Sea. The American mail ships (Ward Line) tie up at the 
 Malecon (see the Plan, ( , 2), within a few min. walk of the Mexican Rly. 
 Station and the plaza. Hotel runners meet ships. Hand-baggage usually is 
 inspected n board, but trunks are (sometimes) taken to the Muelle de la 
 Sanidad across the bay from the Malecon, where the custom-house shed is 
 located (PI. C, 3), and are examined there. The examination is prompt, 
 courteous and lenient. Fees are neither expected nor accepted. While hotel 
 runners insist that they can pass luggage satisfactorily through the aduana 
 (custom-house), prudent travellers will attend to this duty in person. 
 Albeit the hotel runners are as a rule trustworthy, travellers should see to it 
 that baggage is locked before it is delivered over to them. If it is given to 
 a cargador (p. Iii6), be sure he has a card ( tarjeta ) showing his photograph, 
 and a number plate (issued by the police). It is also wise to keep him and 
 the luggage in sight. 
 
 Like port workers in other tropical lands, those of Vera Cruz have an 
 exaggerated idea of the value of their services, and two pesos are often 
 charged for transporting a trunk from the pier to any hotel or the rly. station. 
 Where there are several trunks this price can sometimes be reduced by bar- 
 gaining. Hand-luggage, 25-50 c a piece. Cab fare ($1.50 for J hr. or less; 
 $2.50 an hr.) can be saved (distances are short) by walking, or using the 
 tram-cars — which connect the town with the wharves. 
 
 The port Doctor may ask to see one’s vaccination mark before one is 
 permitted to land. 
 
 Money Exchange ( Cambio de Moneda ). A number of small exchanges 
 cluster about the portale? facing the Plaza. Silver money is discounted. 
 American money can be exchanged usually to better advantage on the ship 
 or at New York, before sailing. Look well to money received at Vera Cruz, 
 as counterfeit coins are not unknown there. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). The chief hotels are under native or Spanish 
 management. English is spoken in some of them. All are near the plaza 
 except the hotel in the Terminal Station. If one is stopping in Vera Cruz a 
 few hours only, the latter will prove the most convenient for trains. A 
 double luggage transfer can also be avoided. 
 
 Hotels facing the plaza , around which the social life of the port centres, 
 are apt to be a trifle higher than those on the side streets. None of them 
 are modern in the American sense, but the rooms usually are large and 
 comfortable. Rooms overlooking the plaza are preferable to inner rooms 
 (and are more expensive). Rooms on the ground floor should be avoided. 
 Learn from which quarter the night breeze is blowing, and secure a room 
 that receives it. A mosquito-net (una mosquitera ) is a necessity and should 
 be demanded. Leave no valuables exposed. Lock rooms and leave keys at 
 the office when not in use. Check up all bills before paying them. 
 
 Where the hotels face the plaza meals are served at small tables on the 
 sidewalk, under the picturesque portales — where refreshments can be had 
 at all hours. 
 
 Tips (comp. p. lix) are expected but are not absolutely necessary. — 
 
470 Route 50. 
 
 VERA CRUZ Railways . Steamships . 
 
 The unimmune should refrain from drinking any water or milk that has 
 not been recently boiled. It should also be remembered that the popular 
 wines are very apt to be diluted with unboiled water. — A certain liquid 
 refreshment made at Orizaba has a reputation for purity, and is widely used. 
 
 The Hotel Diligencias, overlooking the Plaza de Armas. — Hotel Im- 
 perial, adjoining. — Gran Hotel Colon, in the Calle Benito Juarez. — Gran 
 Hotel Mexico, Calle Morelos. — Hotel Terminal , in the Terminal Station. 
 — Rates in all vary from about &2.50 (Mex. money) a day, for room only 
 (outside rooms higher than inner ones). Meals a la carta. — Dining under 
 the portales is a pleasant experience. 
 
 The Railways centring in Vera Cruz are The Mexican Railway ( Ferro - 
 carril Mexicano), Rte. 52, p.484; The Interoceanic Rly. (F. C. Interoc<dnico ), 
 Rte. 55, p.499: The Vera Cruz & Isthmus Rly. (F. C. V. C. al Istmo), 
 to the Isthmus of Tehuantepec (Rte. 62, p. 544) ; and the Ferrocarriles 
 de Vera Cruz Limitada (Rte. 51, p. 481), with trains to Alvarado, and steam- 
 ers to points on the Papalodpam River. All trains arrive and depart from 
 the Terminal Railway Station (PI. B, 2). For time of departure, etc. consult 
 the Rly . folders or the Guia Oficial. There is a hotel and a cining-room in 
 the station. — Newspapers, magazines, books, etc. at the Agenda de Pub- 
 licaciones, in the Terminal Station. — The Post and Telegraph Offices 
 are in the large white building just at the S. of the station. The local execu- 
 tive offices of certain of the railways are in the station building. 
 
 Steamship Offices: Those of the Ward Line (N. Y. & Cuba Mail S. S. 
 Co.) are across the little park from the Terminal Station; A. R. Gomez, 
 Agent. — Mexican Navigation Co., Alejo Bay, agente, Calle Benito Juarez, 
 3. For the addresses of the French, Spanish, and Italian Transatlantic com- 
 panies, and other lines, consult the local directory. The house flag of the 
 line usually can be seen flying from the flagstaff above the office. 
 
 Banks (bancos). Banco Nacional de Mexico. — Viya Hermanos, Suers. 
 are Vera Cruz correspondents of the (American) Mexico City Banking Cor- 
 poration, S. A. 
 
 The Curios offered for sale in the little shops in the portales consist usu- 
 ally of shells, trifling articles of madreperle, carved cocoanuts and similar 
 knickknacks made by the prisoners in the San Juan de Ulua fortress. The 
 glued ones nearly always come apart in steam-heated American homes. 
 The genuinely attractive art objects generally to be found in the Mexico 
 City Antique Shops are lacking here. 
 
 The local Shops cater more to a modest native trade than to foreigners. 
 Prices are higher than at Mexico City. 
 
 The native sweets, drinks, ices, etc. peddled on the streets by ambulate 
 ing vendors should be rigorously avoided. 
 
 Cahs and automobiles ply for hire, but the distances are so short that 
 they find little to do unless one plans a suburban trip. Bargaining is neces- 
 sary in such cases, as the $2, 2.50 charge per hr., in the port does not apply 
 to trips beyond the City limits. 
 
 Travellers who plan to take the night train from the port to Mexico City 
 may like to be reminded that the scenery between the two places ranks with 
 the finest on the continent. The climb from the sea coast to the edge of the 
 great Central Plateau, particularly over the line of the Mexican Railroad 
 (Rte. 52, p. 484), is through one of the most picturesque sections of Mexico, 
 and the stranger should not miss it. The attractive cities of Cordoba and 
 Orizaba, particularly the latter, are well worth a visit, and stop-over 
 tickets can be arranged for with the rly. officials. It is doubtful if any rlv 
 line in the Americas combines so much of charm or can produce such com 
 plete contrasts, for here snow-crowned volcanoes look down in eterna 
 silence upon a region swooning beneath tropical heat and forever aflame 
 with the brilliant flowers of a sun-drenched land. Every inch of the country 
 is overrun with a riot of tropical verdure, or with bizarre flowering trees 
 unknown to our northern clime. Coffee-plantations, broad felds of sugar- 
 cane, tobacco, bananas, oranges, pineapples and a host of lus ious fruits are 
 features of the region, where every tree and shrub produces some sort of a 
 flower, and where Bougain villa a (see n. 442), hibiscus, poinsettia (so called 
 for Joel R. Poinsett, American minister to Mexico in 1828), dahlias (named 
 for Dr Dahl, a Swedish botanist, who brought them first to the U. S. A. 
 from Mexico in 1837), fuchsias (named by Plunder, in honor of the German 
 
Climate and Weather . VERA CRUZ 50. Route . 471 
 
 botanist, Leonard Fuchs), magnolias (named after Pierre Magnol , a French 
 botanist), orchids in great prolusion, brilliant scarlet thistles, morning 
 glories and a myriad other familiar flowers grow wild in the jungle, and 
 give an indescribable color and charm to the landscape. 
 
 Tremendous engineering problems had to be solved when the road was 
 built (from both ends, simultaneously) and the bridges and grades are of un- 
 I failing interest to technical men. The ride is an unforgettable one. The 
 latter half of it is across the high tableland, through the greatest pulque- 
 producing region of the Republic and in territory over which thp Spanish 
 conquistador es fought their w r ay in 1519. The great Pyramids ol San Juan 
 Teotihuacan (p. 425) are seen just before the train readies the Mexican 
 capital. 
 
 While the Interoceanic Railway traverses a country less broken than that 
 • through which the Mexican Railroad runs, the scenery along the line is 
 i abidingly interesting and picturesque. Outstanding features of the tiip are 
 the giant Cofre de Perote, described at page 502; the charming little city 
 ! of Jalapa (p. 503), whence came Jalap, that powerful cathartic so nauseat- 
 I ingly familiar in a time not so very remote; the strange Pyramid of Pap- 
 | aritla (p. 507), and the interesting city of Puebla, with its many churches, 
 its memories of the American army in 1847, and the (at a short distance) 
 highly interesting Pyramid of Cholula (p. 518). 
 
 Climate and Weather Indications. The Climate of the port is moist 
 and at certain seasons almost unbearably hot. The average tempera- 
 ture during the year is: for April and May, 69° Fahr.; during the 
 | “dog days” (canicular es) , 92°; from the middle of Aug. (when the strong 
 N. and N.-W. winds commence to blow) until the middle of Oct. 84°; 
 from Oct. to Dec. 75°, and from Dec. to March, 64°. During the season 
 of calms (middle of May to the end of July) the thermometer often 
 reaches 102° and the heat is almost suffocating. The southern w r inds 
 which blow for a day or two before the North unchains its howling 
 messengers are like the breath of a furnace; but as soon as the nortes 
 whip down the coast the temperature drops and life becomes bearable. 
 These nortes are the monsoons (Arabic mausims = strong winds) of the 
 Western Hemisphere. The continued heat in the Gulf region creates a 
 
 f >artial vacuum due to expansion, and the winter winds of the northern 
 atitude seek this vacuum just as the trade winds follow the sun, and the 
 So.-West monsoon seeks the superheated plains of India. The nortes are 
 as beneficial to the Gulf region as the monsoons are to India and Ceylon. 
 They blow with greatest intensity between Nov. and March. Strong 
 northers ( nortes fuertes) are known as hueso Colorado (red-core). They 
 blow with great violence for two days or more and are always succeeded 
 bv delightful weather. The norte which blows up with the rising tide is 
 called norte chocolatero (chocolate colored), and sometimes lasts for a fort- 
 night; rarely assuming the character of a gale. During these northers 
 dense masses of rain-charged clouds ride in above the city and travel to- 
 ward the sierras of Orizaba and Perote : impinging on these mountains 
 they remain and accumulate until sunset. Then the land breeze — which 
 always blows seaward during the night — brings them back to the coast 
 where they precipitate their moisture — usually between 10 p. m. and 
 daylight. Rain rarely falls in Vera Cruz during the day ; it not un- 
 frequently assumes the form of a hurricane or a waterspout. During a 
 hard norte the wind attains a high velocity and everything portable is 
 placed to leeward of the massive houses. The palms in the plaza and along 
 the Paseo de los Cocos seem as if on the point of being uprooted and hurled 
 to the equator. The waves thunder against the northern rompeolas and 
 dash clouds of spray high in the air. Hissing white caps drive over the 
 southern muelle and throw spinning drift against the doors of the custom- 
 house. In the pier “pockets,” piles of flotsam — cocoanut husks, up- 
 rooted palms, ship-timbers and whatnot — accumulate and swash to 
 and fro with the making and refluent tide: crowds of hungry zopilotes 
 then stand on the edge of the moll and capture bits of carrion that come 
 in on the angr> waters. It is interesting to watch these bizarre and 
 sombre birds as they step gingerly about, rising in trepidation to escape 
 the onslaught of whirling spray; always with their feathers trimmed to 
 
472 Route 50, YERA CRUZ Climate, 
 
 the wind, their heads cocked to one side, the while voicing their shrill 
 querulous skiriing which rises above tne noise of tne wind. 
 
 Weather Indications. 
 
 Fair. — When sea birds fly early and far out. 
 
 When the clouds are soft and with definite 
 outlines. 
 
 When the morning sky is gray, with light, deli- 
 cate tints. 
 
 Wind. — When the dawn has been preceded by a bright 
 yellow sunset. 
 
 When the clouds are hard-edged, oily-looking, 
 and tawny or copper-colored. 
 
 When there is a light scud. 
 
 Rain. — W^hen the sunset of the evening before was of a 
 pale yellow. 
 
 W~hen the clouds are small and inky. 
 
 Clear atmosphere near to horizon and light at- 
 mospheric pressure. 
 
 Wind and Rain. — Light scud driving across heavy masses. Sky of 
 orange or copper color, or gaudy, unusual hues. 
 Clouds with hard, defined outlines. 
 
 Change of Wind. — High upper clouds, crossed by lower in a direction 
 different from their course or that of the wind. 
 
 Storm. — When the wind blows a gale from the north and 
 the sea-birds remain near to shore or fly inland. 
 
 Vera Cruz, one of the oldest, quaintest and most cosmopoli- 
 tan ports on the Mexican Gulf Coast (pop. 25,000; 4 ft. above 
 sea level) in the (Gulf) State of Vera Cruz, 2036 M. from New 
 York, 265 M. from Mexico City, in lat. 19°, 11', 53", and long. 
 
 2°, 59', 53" E. of Greenwich, formerly the greatest entry port 
 in the Republic, but now being hard pressed by Tampico, at 
 the north, was one of the first places in Mexico to be settled by 
 the Spanish invaders, and is to-day more thoroughly Spanish 
 tlian any other city in the country. It is an odd and pictur- 
 esque blend of the antique and the modern, certain parts of 
 the port still resembling bits of Valencia and Bilbao trans- - 
 planted to the New World. 
 
 The languid climate of Vera Cruz is opposed to any start- ' 
 ling innovations. New buildings sometimes rise on the ruins 
 of ancient ones, but the all -pervading humidity soon gives ; 
 them a weather-beaten look, and blends them with the older 
 structures. 
 
 The effects of the American bombardment and capture of 
 the city in 1914, during the Huerta regime, are in evidence 
 in many ways, for during the brief occupation the Americans 
 cleaned the port, eliminated all the pest holes, beautified it in 
 various ways, and started it on a career of cleanliness which in 
 a sense has been maintained. 
 
 Asphal t has taken the place of the medieval cobbles on certain 
 of the principal thoroughfares; the bluish, bubbling sludge which 
 anciently meandered along the open sewers in the centre of 
 the street-s has permanently vanished ; the loathsome zovilotes 
 which formerly comprised the street-cleaning department now 
 have to scratch for a precarious living, and as a consequence, 
 the port is not only free from the dread vomito , but in other 
 
La Parroquia. 
 
 VERA CRUZ 
 
 60. Route. 473 
 
 ways it is far healthier than in olden times. The authorities 
 are making sustained efforts to render the improvements per- 
 manent, and travellers now run no risk in making Vera Cruz 
 their port of entry or departure. 
 
 Despite its modernization the town is still replete with artistic interest, 
 and almost every one of its old walls carries its story of war and of strug- 
 gles with the fighting buccaneers of the Spanish Main. In a way it 
 epitomizes the whole strange history of Mexico, for here the Spaniards 
 planted their first stockade, fought their initial battles with the natives, 
 made it their base of supplies while they besieged the Aztec stronghold, 
 and hence sent their famous “silver fleet” of broad-pooped galleons laden 
 with the pale metal wrested from the treasure-rooms of the dying Indians. 
 For three centuries it was the chief port of New Spain, and when the 
 valiant Mexicans threw off the Spanish yoke the last flag of Spain that 
 floated above the land was hauled down from the tower of San Juan de 
 Ulua. The little houses on the side streets, and the quaint courts and 
 nooks of these streets themselves, are unfailingly interesting and pic- 
 turesque. Many of the exports and imports of southern and central 
 Mexico pass through this gateway, and a steady commercial life pulsates 
 in all its arteries. Nearly one fourth of the total imports into the Repub. 
 come through the V. C. aduana, and over a million pesos a month are col- 
 lected in customs duties. Ships of all maritime nations are usually to be 
 seen in the broad bay. In the last year or so the trade of Vera Cruz has 
 suffered somewhat from the rivalry of Tampico. The V eracruzanos are 
 early risers (many are on the street at 4 a. m.) and most of the business 
 houses close between 11 a. m. and 1 p. m. for the noonday rest, luncheon, 
 and siesta. Business is generally at a standstill during these hours 
 
 The Plaza de la Constitucion (PI. B. 3), in the centre of the town, is one 
 of the most historic spots in the Repub., and is usually animated and 
 picturesque. In the evening when the military band plays in the kiosko, 
 the V eracruzanos repair hither and the plaza and adjacent portales are 
 thronged. The tall cocoa-nut palms which sentinel the place impart a 
 pleasing tropical aspect, and the many foreign sailors from the ships in the 
 bay add to its attractiveness and to its cosmopolitan character. 
 
 The Parochial Church ila parroquia), which faces the Ave. de la 
 Independencia and flanks the S. side of the Plaza de la Constitucion , is the 
 most picturesque building in the port and occupies the site of a ch. 
 erected by the Spaniards soon after they founded the town. It was dedi- 
 cated June 13, 1734, to Nuestra Sefiora de la Asuncion — Our Lady of 
 the Assumption. A life-size figure of this patron saint, bathed in a flood 
 of sickly green light, may be seen in the first chapel to the r. of the main 
 entrance. The other chapels, and the nave, contain a number of replicas 
 of paintings, of little worth. The popular prejudice runs to roods and to 
 polychrome figures of saints, of which there is an over-supply. These 
 figures (of Spanish or German manufacture), of chalk or wood, varying 
 in size from cherubim to patriarchs, almost monopolize the interior — 
 some standing, some crucified, some stretched in gory, realistic coffins, 
 and all in agonized attitudes. They are positively painful to the sight, 
 but if the visitor can close his eyes to these, and to the offensive lights 
 filtered through cheap, gaudy stained-glass windows, and can turn his 
 thought from other harrowing attributes, he can perhaps enjoy the cool 
 atmosphere which, though very ancient, is several degrees lower than that 
 of the sun-scorched streets. 
 
 The Exterior, decorated by the deft hand of time, is far more attractive 
 than the local workmanship of the interior. The salt winds and the 
 tropical hurricanes ( huracanes ) of nearly two centuries have lashed its 
 massive sides and they have imparted thereto a look of extreme antiquity. 
 But the stout-hearted, militant friars of the early colonial days infused 
 some of their own unquenchable zeal, and not a little of their austere 
 personality into this old structure, which still looks sturdy enough to 
 withstand the buffetings of another century or so. The old flying but- 
 tresses are very quaint, as are also the gargoyles which project from the 
 roof like so many ancient Spanish blunderbusses. A number of deep- 
 
474 Route 50. VERA CRUZ Zopilotes. 
 
 toned, green-bronze bells hang high in the old campanario and strike the 
 fleeting hours in unison with the modern clock in the belfry of the Palacio 
 Municipal at the E. end of the plaza. Ornate blue and white Spanish 
 tiles ( azulejos ) cover the cupola and the apex of the towers — those of 
 the latter placed in such a way as to resemble an exaggerated scratch wig. 
 On moonlit nights these lustered tiles reflect the moon’s rays like so 
 many mirrors and impart a singular appearance to the ch., whose greater 
 bulk stands in the shadows. Luna fairly idealizes this dumb old eccle- 
 siastical relic of palmy days, as w r ell as the quaint plaza with its tall and 
 seldom motionless palms. The towers and the lantern surmounting the 
 cupola are the favorite roosting-place of the omnipresent zopilotes, or 
 buzzards ( Cathartes aura) — ill-favored birds which act as city scavengers 
 and which were known to the superstitious Aztecs as the Buhu, or sacred 
 bird of mystery. At twilight all the zopilotes of the port repair to the ch. 
 roof and after considerable ill-humored wrangling settle themselves for 
 the night each in his accustomed place. They pack their jet-black forms 
 as closely as possible on the edges of the tower and the arms of the cross, 
 and when the stars come out and cast a faint light over all, the motionless 
 birds resemble collarettes of jet or funeral plumes that impart an odd 
 and sinister appearance to the structure. These scavengers are an unfra- 
 grant lot (usually rich in vermin) ; and as they sail through the air they 
 leave a wave of scent that recalls anything but the perfumes of Araby. 
 They spend their days perched on the tails of ambulating refuse carts, 
 flapping or straddling along the narrow sidewalks, sidling across the 
 coping stones of the houses or swooping therefrom to the street to fight 
 viciously over bits of carrion unearthed by some ghoulish companion. 
 Their vulturine habits are offensive, but the city authorities protect the 
 birds by imposing a fine ( multa ) of five pesos upon whosoever injures 
 one. Whether he will or no the traveller always associates these black 
 scavengers with his memories of Vera Cruz. They strike one as the sur- 
 viving symbols of the early years of the port, when bewhiskered sea- 
 rangers strode the streets, and dessicating criminals swung and creaked 
 on the grisly gallows which then stood in the central plaza. They are to 
 V era Cruz what the rooks are to Colombo , pigeons to Jeypore, and kites 
 to certain of the Japanese towns. 
 
 The old Church of San Francisco , at the cor. of the Axe. Morelos and the 
 Calle Benito Juarez , was founded in 1S34, and was for many years one of 
 the most prominent in the port; it was recently Converted into a Museum 
 and Public Library (books chiefly in Spanish). The tower was long used as the 
 Benito Juarez Lighthouse. The old ch. corporation was formerly maintained 
 by a tribute levied upon seamen, and upon the shinning that came to the 
 port. Minor churches are La Capilla de la Pastora, El Santo Cristo, El Buen 
 Viaje, El Belen , etc. 
 
 La Avenida de la Independencia , which leads from the Mexican rly. 
 station at the N., to the Alameda at the S., is the main thoroughfare, and 
 some of the best native shops flank it. That section near the plaza is the 
 busiest in the city. Adown the side streets, which lead away at right 
 angles, the traveller will get vistas of unusually quaint houses, with 
 painted wood balconies, and huge, old-fashioned doors. Sleep in a room 
 facing the avenida is usually out of the question after 5 a. m.; the rum- 
 bling of heavy refuse carts, the tooting of tram-car horns, the clang- 
 ing cow-bell of the ice-man, and the shouts of the milkman — who 
 carries the milk in huge tin cans thrust into horse-hide pockets slung 
 pannier-wise across the back of a mule — quickly banish thoughts of 
 sleep. 
 
 Walks (attractive). Down the Ave. de la Independencia (PI. B, 3) to 
 the Paseo de los Cocos (5 min. from the plaza), a cemented and shaded 
 promenade (popular at twilight, and thronged on Sundays) flanked by 
 the Avenida de la Libertad and by many fine cocoa-nut trees, flowering 
 trees and shrubs. The tram-cars which pass the plaza also pass here, 
 going and returning. On the r. before we reach the paseo (often referred 
 to as the Alajneda) is the cuartel and office ( Calle de Ocampo and Ave. 
 de la Indep.) of the Comandante Militar. The statue at the entrance of 
 the paseo was erected (1892) to the memory of a wise and philanthropic 
 governor of the state, Manuel Gutierrez Zamora. The promenade stretches 
 
Market. 
 
 VERA CRUZ 
 
 50. Route. 475 
 
 away for some distance past the quaint and diminutive homes of the 
 natives. A statue of Liberty adorns the extreme end of the paseo, to the 
 r., whence the view of the countryside with its palms is beguiling. Re- 
 turning, we strike off from the Alameda near the entrance, proceed one 
 square toward the sea and come to the unkempt and dusty Porfirio Diaz 
 Park with a circle of cocoa-nut trees and a fine monument and bronze 
 statue of the patriot president Benito Pablo Juarez (PI. B, 4). The figure, 
 of heroic size, surmounts a tall marble shaft embellished by composite 
 marble pilasters. On the scroll in the left hand of the figure is the keynote 
 of the courageous old patriot’s lifework, Reforma. Lower are the words 
 Pro Patria, and inscribed on the base of the shaft is the famous phrase, 
 El respecto al derecho ageno es la paz (Respect for the rights of others is 
 peace). The names of the Mex. patriots Lerdo, Ruiz, and Ocampo, and 
 bronzed eagles with serpents in their talons, adorn the sides and rear of 
 the monument. It was erected to commemorate the celebrated Reform 
 Laws ( Leges de Reforma) promulgated (1859) by Juarez when his provi- 
 sional government was established at Vera Cruz. If the names of Miguel 
 Hidalgo and Porfirio Diaz were engraved on this monument, la siem.pre 
 herdica Vera Cruz could point with pride to the greatest trinity ever 
 produced by the country, for Hidalgo conceived the idea of independ- 
 ence, Juarez the almost equally transcendental one of curtailing clerical 
 power, and Diaz had the soul to share the inspirations of these great men, 
 along with the courage and the strong will to carry them into effect. 
 
 We enter the Avenida Zaragoza, follow it northward, and soon come 
 to El Mercado, an odoriferous though animated and picturesque spot, 
 directly in the rear of the parochial church, on the Calle de Zamora, 
 2 min. walk from the plaza. The early morning is the best time to saunter 
 through this busy market. Here one gets a fairly adequate idea of the 
 almost phenomenal productiveness of the State of Vera Cruz and of the 
 sea which laves its shores. The warm waters of the Gulf produce many 
 varieties of bizarre marine creatures, and the fishing-fleet brings to this 
 mart piscine types which are of never failing interest to the visitor. Chief 
 among the prized fishes is the Huachinango ( Lutjanus Blackfordi) , a 
 species of red-snapper very abundant off the coast. Brilliantly colored 
 fishes, varying in size from a sardine to a small shark, are nearly always 
 to be seen here, and in point of coloring many of the specimens are as 
 beautiful as the tropical birds and butterflies which dwell in the forest 
 near the shore. Here also come many curious and oftentimes luscious 
 fruits of the torrid zone; some of which, owing to their perishable nature, 
 are quite as unfamiliar to dwellers of northern Mexico as they are to 
 foreigners. But the traveller will do well to avoid eating beguiling 
 tropical fruits whose characteristics are unknown to him. Certain harm- 
 less looking fruits produce fever when eaten in excess; others provoke 
 malignant boils and similar cutaneous disturbances, and certain beautiful 
 specimens are as prompt in their action on the human system as an over- 
 dose of salts or castor-oil. Certain fruit combinations produce dire 
 results. 
 
 In the rear of the covered market is an open square where a mercado 
 al fresco is held Sunday mornings; at this time the spot is very attractive. 
 A visit cannot fail to impress one with the cosmopolitan nature of the 
 port, and with the Spanish character of the town. The sloe-eyed Vera 
 Cruz housewife, oftentimes clad in a loose gown and wearing flapping 
 heel-less slippers, comes here to buy provisions, followed by a negro 
 servant, the counterpart of the “ black mammies” of New Orleans. Stal- 
 wart negresses clad in ‘‘ Mother-Hubbard ” gowns, with hooped rings 
 swinging from their ears and with red bandana kerchiefs tied tightly 
 about their woolly heads, are mosaics in the picture, and they form 
 noticeable contrasts with the olive-skinned V eracruzanas, the demure 
 and somewhat darker Indian matrons, and the cream-white Spanish 
 senoras. The Creoles, who long formed a sort of imperium in imperio in 
 this Southern port, are much in evidence. Havtian and Martinique 
 negroes and many other peoples from the Spanish Main, form units in 
 the heterogeneous population. Many of the shops or stalls of the mercado 
 are primitive affairs, protected from the sun by squares of matting or 
 canvas stretched over a bamboo framework and supported, like a huge 
 
476 Route 50. 
 
 V ERA CRUZ 
 
 Excursions. 
 
 square, or a kite-shaped umbrella, by a single pole. Squatting beneath 
 these are the darK-SKinned venders, some with a swarthy babe strapped 
 across the back, tucked in the rebozo or sprawling beside the wares. 
 Fragrant limes, pomegranates, shaddocks, alligator-pears, pineapples, 
 oranges, and a variety of tempting fruit lie side by side with pumpkin 
 seeds, cheap German mirrors, metal combs, red beans, peppers, home- 
 made wooden spoons, and pottery dishes filled with sizzling meats and 
 native goodies, I igliting cockerels sitting in straw funnels or straw hats 
 whose flaps meet and are tied above their backs, are characteristic fea- 
 tures of most Mex. markets, for chicken-fighting ( pdea de gallos ) is an 
 alleged sport which taints the native mind from El Paso to Guatemala. 
 It requires but little bantering to cause the owner of any of these game 
 birds to whip it out of its uncomfortable prison, pit it to an eager oppo- 
 nent, and sacrifice it on the altar of greed or pride. The passion for cock- 
 fighting is, in fact, as dominant among the lower-class Mexicans as crap- 
 shooting is among certain Southern darkies. A stroll through a Mex. 
 market is not infrequently interrupted by the excited clamor of an eager 
 crowd and by an impromptu “pit” in which the quick eye may detect a 
 confused whirl of feathered bodies a foot or more above the ground, the 
 swift flashing of steel gaffs and, a moment later, a dead and perhaps 
 dying rooster. 
 
 Chickens are to Mexico what pigs are to Ireland, and the polio always 
 figures in a Mex. market and on the native menu. The market-women 
 have the habit of plucking fowls coincident with their bargaining, just as 
 industrious female venders knit and do tatting in other lands. Mex. 
 servants will oftentimes purchase a chicken at a market stall and while 
 searching for sage, garlic, or whatnot as spicing and stuffing for the ill- 
 fated creature, strip it as they go, and leave a fluffy trail of flying and 
 adhesive pin feathers in their wake. Though sometimes disquieting to 
 visitors, these feathers form the least objectionable features of a native 
 market. The intestines of the fowls are usually flung in the nearest 
 gutter to be contended for by pariah dogs, cats, and keen-eyed crows and 
 zopilotes. Adjacent to the fruit, fish, and vegetable stalls one generally 
 finds flower-stalls; the love for flowers forming a redeeming trait in the 
 character of the Mex. Indian. The native taste is for rich coloring and 
 heavy scents. A feature of flower-markets is the varied set pieces — 
 wreaths, crosses, and church offerings. Flowers in a native market would 
 appeal more directly to the visitor did not the floreras spend their spare 
 moments scouting for poachers in the tangled jungles of their com- 
 patriots’ hair. 
 
 To the Cementerw General , S.-E. of the Paseo de los Cocos. 10 min. walk 
 from the plaza. Tram-car marked "Principal" or “ Laguna por Cristo .” 
 A quaint spot with many crumbling tombs, several of them erected to 
 the memory of English sailors. Above the gateway is the stirring com- 
 mand ; 
 
 / Postraos ! 
 
 Aqut la eternidad empieza 
 
 Y es polio aqui la mundanal grandeza. 
 
 Manv of the tombs are let into the thick walls, a practice prohibited by 
 the Reform Laws. 
 
 There is a fairlv clean stretch of sandy beach (good playground for 
 children) to the N.-E. of this spot (S. of the steamship landing). 
 
 Excursions: Several interesting tropical excursions are possible over 
 the rlv. and steamship lines of the Vera Cruz Railways, Ltd. The officers 
 (English spoken) will aid the traveller to plan his journey and to econo- 
 mize his time. An enjoyable trip can be made from Vera Cruz to Alva- 
 rado bvrail (p. 481). thence by the company’s river steamboat to San 
 Juan Evangelista , where a short rail ride lands the traveller at Jit He* 
 on the main line of the Tehuantepec National Railway (Rte. 63). Salina 
 Cruz p. 556) is then near at hand, and closer still is the interesting old 
 Isthmian city of Tehuantepec (p. 554). At San Geronimo (p 554), ter- 
 minus of the Pan-American Railway (p. 558), ODe boards a train that 
 runs southward through Chiapas to Guatemala. Returning one may take 
 the Vera Cruz <£* Isthmus Rly. train at Santa Lucrecia (p. 553) and travel 
 
San Juan de Ulua. VERA CRUZ 
 
 50. Route. 477 
 
 back to Cordoba (p. 486) over “The Heart of the Tropics Line” through 
 one of the most favored and beautiful regions of Mexico. Baggage can 
 be checked through to River Ports, thus avoiding transfer charges and 
 re-checking at Alvarado. 
 
 To the Isla de los Sacrificios (PI. D, 5), a popular island resort, 
 tug-boat leaves on special days (see hand-bills) from the Muelle de San- 
 idad at 9.30 a. m. and 3 p. m. The island was so named by Juan de Gri- 
 jalva, who touched there in 1518 and found the bloody remains of hu- 
 man victims of sacrifice in one of the temples. 
 
 The Bay and Harbor (PI. C, 3), formed by the coast and the Gallega 
 Reef (on which stands the Castillo de San Juan de Ulua), are difficult of 
 entrance for ships because of the number of small reefs which lie contigu- 
 ous to them. The harbor has an area of 550 acres and an average deoth 
 of 30 ft.; the mouth is 86 ft. wide and is protected by a modern light- 
 house. The sea wall (with a coping of Scandinavian granite) reclaimed 
 90 acres from the harbor and added them to the town. The Port Works 
 were constructed less than a decade ago, by the English contracting 
 firm of S. Pearson & Son, Ltd., and cost the Mex. government $30,000,000. 
 Formerly, at the approach of a norther, ships were obliged to put out 
 to sea for safety, but the huge breakwaters ( romveolas , malecones) have 
 made the harbor a safe one. The artificial concrete blocks used in their 
 construction weighed 35 tons each, and were made of crushed stone from 
 the Penuela quarries, 63 M. distant, on the Mex Rly. Four huge romveo- 
 las constitute the exterior protective works and enable the largest ships 
 to ride out the most furious nortes in safetv. In calm weather thev form 
 the favorite promenades of the towns-people. who come here for the fresher 
 and cooler air. The visitor should stroll out to the end of one of the 
 breakwaters for the sake of the view, and for a look at the many brilliant 
 fish which the fishermen bring up from the depths of the bay. The 
 sharks in the bay are so numerous and so fierce that they are a constant 
 menace to the fisherman and longshoreman. Long man-eaters are fre- 
 quently caught and brought to the muelle (quav, embankment), and are 
 there cut up and distributed among the fishermen, who wage a holy war 
 against them. Strangers should never undertake boating or fishing trips 
 in the bay without first seeking the advice of some resident, as fatalities 
 among fishermen who come from the interior towns for an outing are 
 numerous. (Compare Weather Indications, page 471.) 
 
 The Castillo de San Juan de Ulua (PI. D, 2), on la Gallega 
 Island , in the Bay of Vera Cruz, about 1 M. from the mainland, 
 with a fort, an arsenal, a dry-dock, ship-yard, light-house, and 
 a military prison ( presidio militar), contains also a chapel de- 
 dicated to Nuestra Sehora de la Escalera (Our Lady of the 
 Stair), in which offerings were formerly made to ensure a safe 
 return from sea voyages. The VeraCruz marine signal station 
 is located here. The light-house ( farol ), on one of the angles 
 of the fortress, is of the 3d order with a tower 76 ft. high, 
 and lamps that flash a white light, followed by a partial eclipse, 
 then a light (visible 15 M. at sea), followed by a momentary 
 total eclipse. A fine view of the town, the Isla de Sacri- 
 ficios, the bay, and the adjacent country is possible from the 
 summit of the tower. 
 
 Permits to visit the castle are necessary and they can be obtained by 
 applving in person to the Comandante Militar (military governor) at 
 the Comandancia Militar, on th eAve.de la I ndependencia, near the Paseo 
 de los Cocos, 5 min. walk from the plaza. The Governor’s office (de- 
 spacho) is in the cuartel (barrack). The best time to apply is between 
 10 and 11 a. m. The castillo should be visited between 10 and 11 a. m. 
 or 4 and 5 p. m.. as the workshops close at 11.30 a. m. for the noontime 
 meal and rest. Cameras (comp. p. lxxix) and note-books should be left 
 
VERA CRUZ 
 
 47S Route 50. 
 
 History. 
 
 on shore. Boats from any of the piers, SI for the round trip, for 1-2 per- 
 sons. If there be more than 2 in the party an agreement should be reached 
 with the boatman before embarking. For 50 c. additional the boatman 
 will row one to the west side of the island, or past the fine breakwater 
 to the N. of the port. The castle landing is at the foot of a heavily barred 
 gate on the side facing the town. The permit (one is sufficient for a party) 
 is handed to the captain in command of the fortress {El Capitan de la 
 Fortaleza ), to whom it is addressed. If the captain conducts the party 
 about, no fees should be offered ; if he details an orderly to the duty, a small 
 fee will be acceptable, but it is in no wise obligatory. The convicts in 
 the prison (usually long-term men put there for serious crimes) are per- 
 mitted to make and sell souvenirs — usually blackened cocoa-nut 
 shells, carved, with infinite patience and at the expense of months of 
 time, into grotesque scrolls, faces, and the like. Some of the designs 
 are ingenious and elaborate; bits of glass are used in lieu of other tools. 
 A finely carved nut can be bought for $2 to S3. Minor souvenirs in the 
 shape of peach-seeds carved to represent monkeys and miniature baskets 
 are offered at 25 c. each. 
 
 The corner-stone of the castillo was laid in 1528 on the spot where 
 Juan de Grijalva first landed 10 years before. When Grijalva was ex- 
 ploring this island he “asked an Indian the significance of the detest- 
 able rite of ripping open living human bodies and offering bloody hearts 
 to hungry gods; and the heathen answered because the people of Culhua, 
 or Ulua, as he pronounced the name, would have it so. From this cir- 
 cumstance, together with the fact that the name of the commander was 
 Juan , and that it was now about the time of the anniversary of the 
 feast of John the Baptist, the island 'was named San Juan de Ulua.” 
 The foundations of the fort are unusually massive, and those below the 
 water-line are said to have cost upward of four millions of pesos. That 
 they are solidly built is evidenced by the fact that they have with- 
 stood the incessant pounding of the sea for nearly four centuries. In 
 1746 the fort was mounted with 120 guns and three mortars. In 1771 
 the Vicerov, Marques de la Croix, spent a million and a half pesos in 
 strengthening the castle and in equipping it wdth 100 brass cannon and 
 about 50 pieces of ordnance made of iron, the latter of heavy calibre. 
 Greed and graft were not unknown in the time of the Spanish Viceroys, 
 and the new Crown possessions offered an attractive field to the poor 
 but proud nobility sent out to govern them. The immense sums spent 
 on Ulua — in all purported to be about 40 millions of pesos — and in 
 Vera Cruz attracted the attention of Charles V, who, one day as he 
 stood on the balcony of his palace in Spain, shaded his eyes and looked 
 intently toward the west. “At what is your majesty looking? ” inquired 
 a courtier. “I am looking for San Juan de Ulua” the King answered; 
 “it has cost me enough to be seen across the sea!” Until recent times 
 the island was used exclusively as a penal settlement. A twenty years’ 
 sentence to this vresidio was iong considered the equivalent of a quick 
 doom. During the Spanish regime the unfortunates sent there were to be 
 commiserated. Many of the cells were mere holes in the sea-wall, and 
 were half-flooded at high-tide — which here attains a maximum of 3 
 ft. Some of the dungeons were too small to admit the bulk of a man in 
 any but a crouching position, and the walls were vermin-infested and 
 slimy with the filth of centuries. When the tide made in, the unhappy 
 prisoner sat immersed to his chin in salt water. Food was lowered to 
 him through a man-hole in the upper pavement. Three months of this 
 confinement usually sufficed to kill the prisoner or to render him insane. 
 The dungeons still exist, but the humane Mexican Government does not 
 confine culprits in them. The castle was the last Spanish stronghold on 
 Mexican soil at the close of the war for independence. On Sept. 15, 1824, 
 the Castilian flag was lowered finally from its towers. 
 
 History. After Francisco Hernandez de Cordoba had discovered 
 (Mch. 4, 1517) the coast of Yucatan, the Governor of Cuba ( Velasquez ) 
 despatched another expedition to that region, placing it in command of 
 Juan de Grijalva. He sailed along the coast of Mexico and landed, in 
 1518, on the spot now occupied by the Castle of San Juan de Ulua. 
 Grijalva found the mainland so rich, and the trading so profitable, that 
 
History. 
 
 VERA CRUZ 
 
 60. Route. 479 
 
 on his return Velasquez fitted out another expedition — which he 
 placed under the command of Hernando Cortes , then 34 years old — 
 for the conquest and exploitation of the newly discovered territory. The 
 ships captained by Cortes anchored in the roadstead April 21, 1519. The 
 next day Cortes landed on the site of the present town, then a wild spot, 
 called by the Indians Chalchiuhouecan . Because the landing was made 
 on Good Friday (on which the Catholic Church venerates the true cross), 
 and because the adjacent country was very rich and tropical, Cortes 
 named the spot La Villa Rica de la Vera Cruz — the rich town of the 
 true cross. Huts ( jacales ) were hastily constructed, a pillory (apparently 
 a necessary adjunct to the alleged civilization of the time) was erected 
 in what is now the Plaza de la Constitution, and for the King of Spain, 
 and in the name of all the saints the invaders could think of, they declared 
 themselves lords of the continent. The town-site was soon found to 
 be unhealthy, and another settlement was founded about a mile from 
 the Indian town of Quizhuiztla — which was drier and nearer the hills. 
 A fort and a stockade were erected as a military base to be used when- 
 ever the maltreated and enraged natives turned on their tormentors, 
 and forthwith Cortes set out on his famous march to Cempoalla; where, 
 with considerable perfidy, and not a little cruelty, he secured the ad- 
 hesion of the Totonaca Indians as allies in his future battles with the 
 Aztecs of Tenochtitldn. 
 
 In 1599 Gaspar de Zuniga, Viceroy of Mexico and Count of Monterey, 
 ordered the town removed to the original site selected by Cortes in 1519. 
 For many years the present town was called New Vera Cruz to differen- 
 tiate it from the old, abandoned town. Until about 1850 a high stone 
 wall ( muralla ) surrounded the port, completely excluding the purifying 
 sea breezes and rendering it one of the unhealthiest spots on the Gulf 
 coast. The wall was a massive affair (erected in 1746) with seven huge 
 gates, one reserved for the exclusive use of the Viceroy. For three cent- 
 uries Vera Cruz was the terror of sea-faring men, who knew it as the 
 “ Gridiron of the West,” in contradistinction to the Dutch city of 
 Batavia (Java), called the ‘‘Gridiron of the East.” Until a year or so ago 
 open sewers disfigured the narrow streets and Yellow Jack made the place 
 his permanent abode. Few cities have suffered more heart-breaking trials. 
 The town has been repeatedlv sacked by buccaneers, bombarded by 
 foreign fleets, scourged by cholera and yellow fever, torn by internecine 
 strife and buffeted and wrecked by hurricanes. Whenever a piratical 
 sea-rover wished (in the words of Francis Drake) to ‘‘singe the King of 
 Spain’s beard, ” Vera Cruz became the objective point, and attempts were 
 made to sack it. One of the most tragic events in its history was its cap- 
 ture and pillage by pirates in 1683. 1 At that time the Gulf and the 
 Caribbean Sea were infested by an infamous gang of sea-rangers captained 
 by one Laurent deGaff, notorious as “ Lorencillo," the Captain Kidd of the 
 region. About twilight of May 17, 1683, two sails were descried on the 
 southern horizon: believing them peaceful merchantmen, the gunners 
 and lookouts at the Castillo of S. J. de Ulua, and at the citadel on shore, 
 paid but little attention to them. When night fell the two ships crept 
 shoreward, but remained out of range of the fort guns. At midnight 
 200 of the 800 pirates on board disembarked in pirogues, fell upon the 
 sleeping and unsuspecting town and soon made themselves masters of 
 it. While some sacked the houses and murdered the unarmed defenders, 
 others rounded up the inhabitants and conducted them, regardless of age, 
 sex or color, to the parochial church. Here 1500 unfortunates remained 
 shut in for four days, while the buccaneers searched the houses for valu- 
 ables. Many women and children died of suffocation and hunger. The 
 ch. itself was stripped of its rich ornaments, and when the robbers de- 
 parted they carried away four millions of silver pesos, beside jewels and 
 other valuable objects. When a thing is lost in Vera Cruz it is still the 
 custom to say, “ Lorencillo lo ha tornado ” — Lorencillo has taken it. 
 
 At a later period the castle guns were silenced and the town pillaged 
 by pirates under the noted corsair Nicolas de Agramonte. After robbing 
 
 1 It was also plundered bv the English corsair John Hawkins, in 1568. 
 He was aided in this raid by Francis Drake. 
 
480 Route 50. STATE OF VERA CRUZ 
 
 the port of more than seven millions of pesos, this Spanish blue-beard 
 conducted three hundred ill-fated \ eracruzanos to the neighboring Isla 
 de Sacrificios, where they were left to perish of starvation. The anni- 
 versary of this affair is still celebrated in Vera Cruz. Nurses still use 
 this ruffian’s name to frighten children. Says a writer: “The very name 
 of Vera Cruz is interwoven with all the departed romance and glory, all 
 the fighting and bloodshed of the great days of the Spanish Main. Through 
 her streets the bearded and bepistolled buccaneer, in all his awful glory, 
 once swept, plundering, burning and ravishing. If the old walls could 
 speak, they could relate such stories of sack and fire, of such devilish 
 cruelty and desperate combats, the like of which even dims the mur- 
 derous renown of Morgan's sack (in 1671) of Panama.” At the close 
 of the Mexican war for independence (1821) the Spanish troops, enraged 
 at having to evacuate San Juan de Ulua, their last stronghold on Mex. 
 soil, subjected the port to such a terrific bombardment that it was almost 
 ground to powder. In 1838 both the town and castle were attacked by 
 the French, and in 1847 both again suffered a cannonading by the Amer- 
 ican fleet under General Scott. The effects of this destructive bombard- 
 ment are still visible on the walls of Ulua. In 1858 a “norther” 1 * * * * de- 
 stroyed nearly all the shipping in the roadstead and drowned several 
 hundred sailors. In 1859 President Benito Juarez landed here after a 
 circular tour of Mexico and was besieged by the Mexican General Mira - 
 mon, at the head of the troops of Maximilian’s empire. In 1861 the “in- 
 tervention” fleet appeared in the offing and the town was in possession 
 of the French and the imperial troops of Maximilian until 1867, when 
 the cause of freedom triumphed. Vera Cruz is now 7 called la siempre 
 heroica — the alw 7 ays heroic. Many of the old walls of the port are built 
 of madrepore stone — a sea product of a coral insect of the genus madre- 
 pora. 
 
 Vera Cruz Llave, richest of the Mexican Gulf States (and one of the 
 wealthiest in the Repub.), with an area of 75,651 sqr. kiloms. and a pop. 
 of 981,530, is progressive, and is one of the most beautiful regions of the 
 world. The name Llave is in honor of General Ignacio de la Llave, w 7 ho 
 was governor of the state between 1857 and 1860. It is bounded on the N. 
 by the states of Tamaulipas and San Luis Potosi; on the E. by the Gulf 
 of Mexico; on the S. by Tabasco, Chiapas and Oaxaca and on the W. 
 by Puebla and Hidalgo Politically it is divided into 18 cantones (subdi- 
 vided into municipalities) which may be classed as Maritime and In- 
 terior. It lies on the slope of the eastern Sierra Madre range and reaches 
 from the coast halfway up to the Central table-land. Its culminating 
 point is the Pico de Orizaba (p. 496), long considered the highest point 
 on the North American continent. A lesser peak, hard by, is the Cofre 
 de Perote (p. 504). Many minor peaks rise in pointed grandeur from the 
 tropical lowlands, and on their sides vegetation representing every 
 degree of climate, from the torrid to the frigid zone, is found. The towns 
 on their more elevated slopes are the sanitaria of the sun-baked inhabit- 
 ants of the coastal towns. Other mt. ranges wuthin the state are the 
 Maltrata, Alcucingo, Jalacingo, Oxocupan and Zongolica. The eastern 
 littoral stretches (460 kilom.) from the Tampico Bar to Tonala, and 
 from the sea which w 7 ashes its shores, enough fish could be taken to sup- 
 ply a nation. The N. part of this coast is called the Windw r ard Coast, 
 the S. half, from Vera Cruz to the Bar of Tonala, the Leew T ard Coast. 
 The state is well watered, rich, intensely tropical, and amazingly pro- 
 ductive. A number of broad rivers — the haunt of alligators, allied 
 reptilia, and a myriad water-fowl — pour their turgid waters into the 
 Gulf. Chief among the rios is the Panuco (largest of the state and know T n 
 in the contiguous State of Hidalgo as the Tula), the Tuxpam, Casones, 
 Tecolulla, Nauila, Actopan, Antigua, Papaloapam, Coatzacoalcos , etc. 
 The hydrographic basins formed by these streams contain the Catemaco , 
 
 1 These hurricanes were long the bane of Vera Cruz. History refers 
 
 in mournful terms to one of the most notable shipwrecks of early times, 
 
 the loss of the Spanish admiral’s ship in 158S. It was dashed to pieces 
 
 on the reefs at the mouth of Vera Cruz harbor, and over 180 persons 
 
 perished in sight of town, for lack of boats on shore to deliver them. 
 
VERA CRUZ TO ALVARADO 51. Rte. 481 
 
 Ostion, Mexcalapa , Tortuguero, and Tecunanapa lakes. It would require 
 a book to list the fruits, flowers, precious woods, animals, birds, and 
 fishes of the state. The products are those of the temperate and torrid 
 zones combined. In the northern region are the interesting and ancient 
 ruins of Misantla, Tusupan, Mapilca and Casones , the latter also known 
 as Casas Grandes (big houses). 
 
 51. From Vera Cruz to Alvarado (by railway ), 
 thence (by steamboat) to Tlacotlalpam, San 
 Cristobal, Cosamaloapam, Chacaltianquis, and 
 Tuxtepec. 
 
 70 Kilom. Train from the Terminal Station daily in about 3 hours. For 
 fare, see p. xxxi. Consult the company’s folder for arrival and departure of 
 steamboats. 
 
 Vera Cruz, see p. 469. The line passes out through the 
 suburbs, leaving the Alameda, the Campo Santo, and the Bull- 
 Ring on the 1. ; on the r. is the Laguna de Cocos. The fortified 
 building on a slight eminence at the 1. is the old powder-house, 
 or Casa Mata. 2 K. Los Cocos . 7 K. Gonzalez. 10 K. Puente 
 Moreno. 15 K. El Tejar. We cross a small river on a single- 
 span steel bridge. 
 
 16 K. Medellin, a favorite resort of the V eracruza nos. Two 
 rivers, the Atoyac and the Jarnapa, join here. Excellent bath- 
 ing and fishing. The site of Medellin was occupied by an In- 
 dian town of some importance before the Spanish invasion; 
 the ruins of a pre-historic town, Xicalanco, lie in the forest 
 near by. The Spaniards destroyed the old Indian town, and 
 Cortes, who had a special predilection for the spot, founded the 
 new town and named it Medellin after his native town in Spain 
 (the Metillinum of the Romans, Province of Estremadura). 
 Here he returned after his disastrous expedition to Honduras 
 in 1526. During the siege of Vera Cruz by the Imperial troops 
 under General Miramon (executed with Maximilian) this spot 
 was the headquarters of the army. 18 K. Vargas . 
 
 19 K. Paso del Toro, in the centre of a rich farming district whence 
 the Vera Cruz markets draw their main supplies. Many fine fruits are 
 grown in the neighborhood, and fat cattle are a specialty. 33 K. Laguna , 
 shipping-point for fine dye-wood (fustic). Splendid forests of valuable 
 timber surround the town. One of the chief industries is the exportation 
 of oil extracted from the castor-bean ( Ricinus communis, or Palma 
 Christi), which grows here in great profusion. 35 K. La Piedra. The line 
 traverses savannahs and dense tropical jungles. The region is far enough 
 away from the ocean to be unaffected by the salt air, and the vegetation 
 is beautiful and luxuriant. The flowering trees, of which there are many 
 varieties, are sometimes very handsome. Nature has decorated this 
 region with an unusually lavish hand. 46 E. Salinas. 55 K. Camarones. 
 59 K. Buen Pais, noted for its fine oysters ( ostiones ). Vendors bring 
 them to the rly. station for sale to the passengers. Though caught in 
 warm water the bivalves are good. 
 
 70 K. Alvarado (named for Pedro de Alvarado, a trusted lieutenant 
 of Cortes ). ( Hotel Olympia, $3 Am. PI. No cabs.) Pop. 7,000. Terminus 
 of the rly., and headquarters of the deep sea and river steamers of the 
 
482 Rte.51. ALVARADO TO TUXTEPEC Cocoa-nuts. 
 
 Vera Cruz R. R. Co., Ltd. The town stands on a peninsula formed by 
 the sea, the Alvarado River , and the bay of the same name. It is a quaint, 
 old-fashioned fishing village, more like a 16th than a 20th cent, place. 
 A line of sand dunes rise directly back of the port: beyond these many 
 graceful palms raise their plumed heads and advertise the dense jungle 
 which stretches inland. The warm waters of the bay teem with fine fish, 
 turtles, crabs, and oysters. A time-stained old church bearing the date 
 of 1779 faces the plaza . At one side of this, near the ch., is an oblong 
 stone ornament with carved Indian figures, brought from some deserted 
 ruin in the forest. Pedro de Alvarado entered the bay which now bears 
 his name in 1518, during the progress of the Grijalva expedition. The 
 Indian inhabitants were soon pacified, and for many years the port was 
 the centre of operations against the interior. Large fleets of up-river 
 canoes came hither to barter native merchandise for the trinkets sup- 
 plied by the Spaniards. During the bombardment of Vera Cruz by the 
 Spanish garrison in the Castillo de San Juan de Ulua, the wealthier 
 merchants moved hither. While the Americans were investing Vera 
 Cruz, Alvarado was seized by Lieutenant Hunter of the U. S. S. Scourge, 
 and the town was the scene of several sanguinary battles. The remains 
 of an old battery are still visible in the shifting sands. Hard by is a half- 
 buried and rusty cannon bearing the broad arrow and Crown mark of the 
 British Government. The region in which Alvarado lies is known as the 
 Sotavento, or Leeward Coast. 
 
 From ( Vera Cruz) Alvarado to Tlacotalpam, San Cristobal, Cosamaloapam, 
 Chacaltianquis and Tdxtepec, by river (continuation of Rte. 51). 
 
 Departamento de Navegacion, F errocarriles de Vera Cruz , Ltd. The 
 mail boats run throughout the year to T uxtepec , where they transfer 
 passengers for up-river points to cargo boats and to the light draught 
 vessels which ascend the shallow confluents. The service changes with 
 the seasons, and the traveller is recommended to the general office of 
 the company in Vera Cruz for tariff -sheets and sailing-dates. 
 
 Soon after leaving Alvarado the river channel narrows and 
 the boat follows the sinuosities of the stream ; now approach- 
 ing one bank, now the other. The scenery is tropical and the 
 views picturesque. On each side of the river are small ranchos 
 (devoted to the raising of sugar-cane or some tropical product), 
 dotted with palm-thatched huts from which a path invariably 
 leads to the river. Hanging on some convenient tree near the 
 bank is the inevitable fishing-net, while moored hard by is a 
 canoe hollowed out of a cedar log or some light wood. Tall 
 cocoa-nut trees shade each diminutive native home and fur- 
 nish many articles necessary to the native economy. 
 
 The original home of the Cocoa-Nut Tree ( Cocos nucifera) is the 
 East Indies, although it is now common in tropical America. On many 
 a crescent-shaped beach along the Gulf shore these noble trees may be 
 seen in all their beauty and productiveness. “As if mindful of the rest- 
 less waves that bore its parent nut to these shores, it delights to keep 
 them company. The scent of the salt spray is dearer to it than the most 
 fragrant breeze that ever blew across a flower-crowned hill or verdant 
 inland valley, and it haunts the abode of man so long as he lives near the 
 ocean; which it loves as the pine loves the hills.” The rough, cylindrical 
 trunks are sometimes 2 ft. thick and they soar 50 ft. or more above the 
 ground, bearing great clusters of valuable fruit amid their crowning tufts 
 of feathery leaves. What the cactus is to the highlander, the cocoa-nut 
 is to the natives of the tropical littoral — its fruit furnishes food and 
 drink, its leaves are used to thatch their cottages; to make matting for 
 floors and for clothing; for baskets and bags, fans and whatnot, and to be 
 
Tuxtepec. 
 
 TLACOTALPAM 
 
 51. Route. 483 
 
 used in lieu of spoons, dishes, paper, and a host of other things. The 
 unripe fruit supplies a very refreshing (but slightly laxative) drink. For 
 this the nut is taken when quite green, the cap is cut off the small end 
 by a quick blow of a strong knife, and the sweetish white water is drunk 
 clear, or mixed with a little spirits. When the nut is half-matured a small 
 white lump (the ovule), like the stalk of a young mushroom, can be 
 discerned amid the creamy, half-formed mass. This ovule is always 
 opposite the soft eye (the two remaining are filled with hard shell) and 
 as the nut lies in the sand, exposed to heat, rain, and dew, the lump 
 develops into a baby finger which seeks with unerring accuracy the 
 vulnerable exit. Once in the sunlight, the now green finger curves 
 upward, while fibrous nerves draw the life principle from the albuminous 
 cream which lines the inside of the shell. As the roots grow downward 
 the green, embryonic trunk starts upward. In seven years it matures 
 and bears fruit during its life of sixty years or longer. 
 
 As we ascend the river the cocoa-nut groves thin out, then 
 finally disappear. 
 
 Tlacotalpam, the first big town on the right, was an im- 
 portant Indian post in pre-Spanish days. ( Hotel Central , 
 facing the steamer-landing, $3 Am. PI.) The streets of the 
 town (known as La Perla de la Costa — pearl of the coast — and 
 which stands at the meeting-point of the San Juan and Papa - 
 loapam Rivers ), run parallel with the river, which is here 
 flanked by pretty, flower-embowered houses. It was made a 
 ciudad in 1847 to commemorate an heroic repulse of the Ameri- 
 can troops. The country roundabout produces great numbers 
 of fat cattle for the various Mexican markets. Two churches 
 (uninteresting) face the main plaza , along with the casa muni- 
 cipal. Hard by the town is a house in which Porfirio Diaz is 
 said to have had his temporary headquarters during his early 
 struggles for prominence. Opposite the town a white line of 
 foam marks the junction of the waters of the San Juan and 
 the Papaloapam Rivers. 
 
 Above Tlacotalpam vast banana plantations line the river-bank. Nine 
 miles beyond, an important tributary, the Tesechoacan River , joins the 
 main stream. Sugar plantations stretch away from the bank on either 
 side; at Amatlan and San Cristobal the country is like one vast sugar 
 estate. According to an authority this region could supply all Europe 
 with sugar were all the arable land under cultivation. The largest estate 
 is that of San Cristobal, which employs one small rly. and 600 men. 
 Under ordinary conditions 600 tons of cane are crushed and 2,000 bbls. 
 of sugar and 120 bbls. of rum are produced daily. Cosamaloapam, a few 
 miles up stream from San Cristobal, birthplace of the poet Manuel 
 Carpio (1791), in the centre of a very productive fruit region, was of 
 much importance during the Viceregal period. The Indian ch. offers 
 nothing to interest the visitor. Chacaltianguis (75 M. from Alvarado) 
 a charmingly tropical village, untouched by the white hand of progress, 
 is the highest point of navigation for the deep draught boats, and pas- 
 sengers are here transferred to smaller and less comfortable vessels. 
 The effects of the ocean tide are felt slightly. We soon come to Paso de 
 Salas, near which the Rio Tonto (fool river, not so shallow as the name 
 implies, since in some places it is 60 ft. deep) joins the main stream. 
 
 Tuxtepec, head of navigation on the Papaloapam River , a shipping 
 town of some importance, lies contiguous to a number of celebrated 
 tobacco plantations; the Valle Nacional, Santa Rosa, Ojitlan, etc. The 
 region bears the same relation to Mexico that the famous V uelto Aba jo 
 does to Cuba, in that it produces tobacco of noteworthy excellence. The 
 greatest tobacco factories in Vera Cruz draw their supplies hence. From 
 
4S4 Rte. 52. VERA CRUZ TO MEXICO CITY 
 
 this point pack-trains penetrate to the interior of the country and bring 
 out the varied products of the hills — rubber, coffee, sugar, vanilla, 
 ginger, ramie, and a multitude of tropical commodities. The old Indian 
 village of Tochtepec occupied the site of the present town before the 
 Spanish invasion. In 1521 the enraged natives rose en masse against their 
 foreign oppressors, and slew the 80 Spaniards comprising the garrison. 
 Alvarado then besieged the town, defeated the inhabitants and burned 
 the unfortunate cacique alive in his own market-place. 
 
 52. From Vera Cruz via Cordoba, Orizaba, and 
 San Juan Teotihuacan to Mexico City. 
 
 MEXICAN RAILROAD — Ferrocarril Mexicano. 
 
 (From the Terminal Station) 
 
 To Mexico City: 424 Kiloms. (265 M.). Frequent trains in about 12 hrs. 
 Fare S18.75, 1st cl. Pullman S13.40 (upper berth S11.20 — seat SS.20 — 
 Drawing-room S49.10). As the ride to Mexico City is one of the most inter- 
 esting and picturesque on the continent, strangers should plan to make it 
 by daylight ( best views from the left side of the train). There is a good buf- 
 fet in the Pullman. — To be sure of a seat in the day coach one must arrive 
 early, as the line is popular and the cars often crowded. There is a satisfac- 
 tory’ rly. restaurant at Esp;ranza. 
 
 Orizaba (p. 489), midway between the coast and the highlands, with a 
 soft, healthful climate, pure water, comfortable hotels, etc., makes a good 
 stop-over place. Attractive, with many delightful walks in the environs. 
 
 Many foreigners are located in Orizaba, which is one of the quaintest 
 cities in the Republic. 
 
 Passengers for points on the Vera Cruz and Isthmus Rly. (Rte. 62) change 
 cars at Cordoba; also for towns on the Cordoba and Huatusco Line. For 
 Tehuacan and the Mexican Southern Rly. (Rte. 59) at Esperanza: for Pa- 
 chuca, at Ometusco , and for Puebla at Apizaco. 
 
 Vera Cruz, see p. 469. The line describes a curve and 
 traverses the suburbs, passing within sight of the Cementerio, 
 the Casa Mata , and Alameda, and many of the diminutive but 
 picturesque homes of the natives. Sand-dunes alternate with 
 marsh-lands, the latter the home of many wild-fowl. The 
 Laguna de Cocos (cocoa-nut lagoon) is the spot wdiere the 
 Mexican army which defended Vera Cruz during the American 
 bombardment surrendered (1847) to the American General 
 Scott. The Pico de Orizaba (p. 496) is seen silhouetted against 
 the northern sky-line. Red-roofed (tile) houses, primitive 
 sugar-cane reduction- works, bizarre trees with brilliant flowers, 
 palms, palmettos and Spanish bayonets are features of the 
 landscape. Across the jungle-tops we see a range of fine blue 
 hills in the distance. 20 K. Santa Rita. 31 K. La Purga. Here- 
 about are some splendid trees, known as Arboles de Patancan , 
 with fine white flowers. 42 K. Soledad. The peace treaty be- 
 tween the Spanish General Prim and the Mex. General Dob- 
 lado was concluded here in 1862. We cross the Rio Jamapa 
 on a fine bridge over 400 ft. long. On the r. is a deep gorge 
 with a rushing river and the remains of an old Spanish cause- 
 way. The country is broken into hills and valleys. 63 K. 
 Camaron . The monument and the white stone slab at the 
 
VERA CRUZ TO MEXICO CITY 52. Rte. 485 
 
 left of the track, opposite the station, commemorate the 
 French soldiers buried here during the War of the Interven- 
 tion. We ascend through narrow valleys and rocky defiles. 
 
 76 K. Paso del Macho (Mule Pass), 1,500 ft. The warm, 
 humid air of the coast lands, laden with the pungent smell of 
 rank, tropical vegetation, merges into waves of cooler moun- 
 tain air in which the senses register faint piny odors. The 
 myriad birds that impart life and color to the lagoons adjacent 
 to Vera Cruz rarely pass the dividing-line between the foot- 
 hills and the mts., as the keen-eyed eagles and sharp-taloned 
 hawks which infest the higher reaches are not to the liking of 
 timid egrets, ducks, parakeets and similar species. A few 
 miles beyond P. del M. we cross the San Alejo bridge (318 ft.). 
 At Chiquihuite siding is another bridge 220 ft. long, and just 
 before we reach Atoyac there is a bridge spanning the Atoyac 
 River — which flows E. from here and empties into the Gulf of 
 Mexico, 53 M. distant. Between the Chiquihuite (basket) and 
 the Atoyac bridges are the Falls of Atoyac , insignificant during 
 the dry season but a roaring, leaping cataract during the 
 estacion de las aguas. 86 K. Atoyac. Hard by is a splendid 
 cavern ( caverna ) discovered July 21, 1906. 
 
 The rails cross a section of the Gruta de Atoyac and in the interior of 
 the cave the rumble of the train overhead sounds like reverberating 
 thunder. Prehistoric instruments, fragments of pottery, skeletons and 
 many relics of a vanished race of Indians were found in the wide salas. 
 There are also many fine stalactites and stalagmites. Explorations are in 
 progress and efforts are being made to sound the cave to its limit. The 
 rly. runs excursion trains from Mexico City, Cordoba and other points 
 (see the newspapers for rates and dates). The traveller who wishes to 
 stop over at Atoyac may secure through tickets with stop-over privileges. 
 The cave is within easy walking distance of the station. Guides are 
 easily procurable. Consult the station-master. 
 
 97 K. Paraje Nuevo. The ascent becomes visibly steeper, 
 and sharp 4% grades make the powerful engines snort and 
 wheeze till the surrounding hills fling back the echo of their 
 efforts. The potent hill-climbing locomotives ( Fairlie ) are 
 equipped with powerful brakes supplemented by auxiliaries 
 and hand-brakes, and a slip-back is practically impossible. 
 Soon the rank vegetation of the tropics, and the giant hot- 
 country trees garlanded with beautifully tinted orchids drop 
 silently behind, like fagged runners in an unequal race. Lux- 
 uriant bananas flank the rly. and beneath their graceful fronds 
 appear the red berries of ripening coffee. Through gaps in the 
 hills one gets fine vistas of extensive cane-fields. The mts. up 
 which we are climbing show belting forests of pine on their 
 verdant sides. The scenery is charming. The languor induced 
 by the humidity of the coastal region has vanished at the 
 touch, and the tonic effect, of the bracing air of the highlands. 
 Tunnels are almost as numerous as snow-sheds on the Union 
 Pacific Rly. On this stretch of the line we ascend from an 
 
4S6 Route 53. 
 
 CORDOBA 
 
 elevation of 1,510 ft. to 2,710 ft. within 20 miles. 106 K. 
 Cordoba, see below. Fora continuation of the journey see p. 488. 
 
 53. Cordoba and Environs. 
 
 The station is about 1 M. from the centre of the town, which clusters 
 around the Plaza Principal. Tram-cars of the Ferrocarril Urbano de 
 Cordoba meet trains and run at intervals of about every hour during the 
 day; fare, 6 C.-20 c. for the servicio nocturne, after 9 p. m. Cabs are not 
 always to be had. On the return trip the trams pass the Mex. station and 
 proceed beyond (£ M.) to that of the Ferrocarril Vera Cruz al Istmo 
 (p. 544). Baggage-checks should be delivered to the hotel manager, who 
 will have luggage brought up on the tram-cars. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). Hotel Dihgencia , — Gran Hotel Zevallos, — 
 Hotel Imperial. Rates for rooms from $2 up per day; meals a la carta. 
 
 Cabs, Autos. The omnipresent Ford jitney has made its appearance in 
 Cordoba tas well as in most of the outlying Mexican towns) and it is s 
 convenient means of conveyance for those who dislike the street cars. The 
 usual rate is $2.50 per hour, and $1.50 for a half hour, or less. Special rates 
 can always be made with the driver for sight-seeing ■‘ours in the country 
 roundabout. The city rates do not apply to country trips, and there will be 
 a controversy at the end if an understanding is not reached with the chofer 
 before starting out. The outskirts of Orizaba are more attractive than 
 those of Cordoba, and it is a better stop-off place on the route between 
 Vera Cruz and Mexico City. 
 
 Banks Marenco e Hijos are correspondents of the Mexico City Banking 
 Corporation, S. A. Money can be exchanged and travellers’ checks, drafts, 
 etc., cashed. 
 
 A railway (the Ferrocarril de Cordoba a Huatusco) leads hence 
 to Huatusco (23 Kilom., 1 train daily in about 3 hrs.) through the towns 
 (uninteresting) of San Juan , Tomatlan, Chocaman , Monte Blanco , La 
 CapiUc and San Antonio. For time card consult the Guia Ojidal. 
 
 At Cordoba and orher stations beyond, on the rly., excellent mangoes, 
 oranges, citrons, and short, fat yellow bananas ( Dominicos ) of great 
 sweetness are offered for sale. The latter are very perishable and they 
 are difficult to obtain in the Mexico City markets, where they are prized. 
 Segments of bamboo about six inches in diameter, about ten inches long 
 and with cunningly contrived slides, filled with moistened tube-roses. 
 Japonica or sweet Spanish-Jasmine, are also sold here; the usual price 
 is a toston (50 c.). The passing of trains through the station is the signal 
 for establishing a sort of temporary native bazaar where eggs, milk, 
 fruit, bread, flowers, cheese, sweetmeats and whatnot are on sale. The 
 peddlers, many of whom are Indian women, seem not satisfied with what 
 they extract from the passengers at one station, and as soon as the train 
 pulls out they pack their traps, and by some short and direct cut up 
 the mountain reach higher stations, to there smilingly await the train 
 as it drags wearily in after some long and arduous detour. The crisp mt. 
 air puts a keen spur on every appetite, and the man who regrets his re- 
 fusal to pay the price asked for some “goody” at a lower station has a 
 chance, usually to his unfeigned surprise, to secure the article at his own 
 price, perchance lower: for, paradoxical as it may seem, the higher the 
 vender the lower his price. 
 
 C6rdoba (Arabic = Karta-tuba — important city) , founded 
 April 18, 161S, by order of the Spanish Viceroy Don Diego 
 Fernandez de Cordoba ; pop. 7,000, 2,713 ft. above sea-level, lies 
 on the slope of a little hill called Xitango , in the fertile valley 
 of the Rio Seco, 198 M. from Mexico City and is one of the most 
 important towns in the State of Vera Cruz. The Climate is 
 warm, moist and a bit feverish. Rain falls frequently during 
 
Amatlan. 
 
 CORDOBA 
 
 58. Route. 487 
 
 9 months of the year; the three remaining months (the so- 
 called winter) constitute the estacion de secas (dry season) and 
 they are the best for visitors. May is the hottest, and Jan. the 
 coldest month. Light fogs are not uncommon : they are some- 
 times of a beautiful azure tint and they idealize the splendid, 
 snow-capped Pico de Orizaba (p. 496), recalling to the travel- 
 ler’s mind the beautiful cone of Fuji-no-Yama. This fine mt. is 
 the redeeming feature of the otherwise nondescript town. 
 
 The sanitary arrangements of Cordoba are mediaeval. The town is in- 
 nocent of sewers, the water is hard and very difficult to wash in ; and it 
 should not be taken internally unless boiled. (Excellent beers and bottled 
 waters are always obtainable, and the traveller predisposed to malaria 
 is counselled to drink them rather than the town water.) The ice is 
 made in Orizaba , at a brewery with a reputation for cleanliness. Some of 
 the houses, erected when the town was founded, are very ancient and 
 time-stained. Antique Spanish-Moorish windows ( ventanas ) heavily 
 barred with iron, quaint wooden balconies, massive colonial doors 
 with huge iron knockers ( llamadores ) and studded with broad-headed 
 hand-wrought copper nails, are characteristic features. Most of the 
 houses are low and are roofed with red tiles ( tejas ) which form a pleasing 
 contrast to the luxuriant green of the tropical vegetation. These friable 
 tiles require frequent replacing, and the new ones, sprinkled among 
 the old, impart a spotted appearance to the roofs. The latter are the 
 favorite promenades of splendid peacocks whose strident screams 
 awaken the echoes. Somnolent zopilotes constitute the street-cleaning 
 department. The inhabitants are ostensibly very religious; clanging 
 church-bells awaken the sleeper at five a. m. and for a time thereafter 
 the streets are filled with towns-people going to early mass. The place 
 has an unkempt appearance, and panniered donkeys amble through 
 the streets and browse upon the grass which grows between the cobble- 
 stones. Four fine palms and some handsome gardenias are the chief 
 features of the dreary plaza , which is flanked on one side by a new 
 municipal building; on the others by the church and some ancient 
 portales. Many of the old residents assemble here and take the rest- 
 cure throughout the drizzling days. To the sound of squawking parrots 
 they sit around metal tables and smoke cigarettes, criticise the doings 
 of the metropolitanos at the capital, swap discarded political ideas, play 
 dominos, re-clothe jokes that came over with Cortes and sip claret diluted 
 with seltz-water squirted from blue glass syphons encased in wire net- 
 work. The general atmosphere of this region is hazy and lazy. Facing the 
 plaza is a house where the unfortunate Archduke Maximilian is said to 
 have slept, en route from Vera Cruz to Mexico City. Another house is 
 pointed out as the spot where the treaty that recognized the Independence 
 of Mexico was signed (Aug. 24, 1821) by General Agustin de Iturbide and 
 the last Spanish representative under vice-regal rule, Don Juan de 
 O'Donoju. The Church of San Antonio was founded in 1688 by the Fran- 
 ciscans: the present building (uninteresting) was completed in 1725. 
 The Church and Convento de San Hipolito (also uninteresting) were 
 founded in 1793. Cordoba recalls to mind the querulous traveller who 
 complained that “there was nothing to see and they would n’t let him 
 see it! ” 
 
 The Environs of Cordoba are very tropical. Vast fields of sugar- 
 cane, pineapple plantations and banana farms, stretch away to the 
 horizon. Fine Manila mangoes (introduced by Juan Antonio Gomez in 
 1770) grow in the vicinity. The tobacco and coffee which thrive here 
 are ranked high. A day can be spent to advantage visiting one of the 
 haciendas in the neighborhood. In the immediate suburbs is a half-wild 
 garden with a number of pretty walks, some tinkling fountains and 
 many specimens of tropical plants. The Indian Village of Amatlan lies 
 about 3 M. to the S.-E. and is easily reached on foot. Horseback is 
 preferable if the traveller makes it alone. The tribe (very friendly) pos- 
 sesses its own laws, customs and language. Though living in proximity 
 
4S8 Route 52. METLAC BARRANCA 
 
 to Spanish-speaking people the Indians are so jealous of their own lan- 
 guage and traditions that they usually refuse to understand or to speak 
 Castilian. The attractive women (frequently seen in Cordoba ) wear loose 
 flowing robes of white cotton ornamented with narrow, colored braid 
 and silver trinkets: they make excellent needle-work. The Indians are 
 stanch Catholics and the town possesses a small parish church. 
 
 Cordoba , see p. 486. 114 K. Fortin , so called because of a 
 little fortress hard by. The tall monument in the cemetery to 
 the 1. of the station marks the grave of Don Felix Diaz , a 
 Mexican patriot. The real attractions of the rly. line begin to 
 appear; the scenery becomes grandly beautiful, and we soon 
 reach one of the most weird and fearsome passes on the line. 
 The train moves slowly, turns sharply to the r. and cautiously 
 glides down one side of the deep Metlac Barranca. On the other 
 side of a yawning ravine, in the depths of which a tropical 
 river churns its way, is another line of mils, on a terrace cut 
 from the side of a precipice, and at an angle similar to that of 
 a toboggan slide. Five tunnels interrupt this line before it 
 reaches the higher level and turns the flank of the hill. The 
 train glides very slowly and gingerly across the Metlac bridge, 
 a very skilful piece of engineering work 350 ft. long, built upon 
 a curve of 325 ft. radius, on a 3% grade, 92 ft. above the river. 
 Eight cast and wrought iron pillars on masonry bases uphold 
 it. When a long train is winding across it, the horseshoe effect 
 is very striking. The pass is dreaded by trainmen, who consider 
 it the most dangerous on the line. Flagmen are stationed here 
 permanent^. As the train creeps up the flank of the opposite 
 mt. the barranca widens and exposes its tropical charms to the 
 delighted eye. Magnificent forest trees, covered with yellow, 
 purple and pink blossoms; palms of many kinds, and patches 
 of luxuriant tropical jungle, bright with scores of different 
 brilliant flowers or creepers which throw themselves from one 
 tree-top to the other as they tower above the tangled under- 
 growth, are seen, while anon a glimpse of a fair valley is had: 
 a vale snuggled between sheltering hills, bathed in sunshine 
 and rank with the vegetation of the lower tropics. Dainty 
 little waterfalls are revealed up the glens as the train climbs 
 by, while others rush under the culverts to leap into mid-air 
 and lose themselves in clouds of mist and spray, shot with all 
 the colors of the rainbow. The general plan of building the 
 Mexican rly. has been to wind around the mts. rather than to 
 drive long tunnels through them: this plan is well exemplified 
 by the many short tunnels through which the train passes after 
 leaving Metlac bridge. They are so numerous that at times 
 the locomotive will be in one and the last car of the train in 
 another. From the last of these tunnels the train emerges 
 upon an extensive table-land, whence the eye looks upon 
 broad valleys, billowy mt. ranges, and many straw-thatched 
 native huts tucked away in some fair glen or vale. The magni- 
 
ORIZABA 
 
 Cofee Zone. 
 
 54 . Route. 489 
 
 ficent cone of Orizaba is again visible, a white and serene 
 apotheosis against the bosom of the blue sky. 
 
 122 K. Sumidero, in the heart of the Coffee Zone, which 
 extends from Paso del Macho to Orizaba. Some of the best 
 Mexican coffee (cafe) comes from this district, or zone, which 
 is about 85 M. long by 20 M. wide. 
 
 The growing demand in the U. S. A. for the coffee from this 
 region has increased land values and the acreage devoted to 
 coffee culture. The cafe caracolillo (pea-bean coffee) grown 
 here is much liked. 
 
 Of the genus Coffea (the qahuah of the Arabs), there are, it is said, 
 two species: Caffea Arabica and C. Occidentalis. The chance discovery 
 of its value as a beverage is attributed to an Arab in Yemen, about the 
 end of the 13th cent. It was introduced into France by Thevenot , the 
 traveller, and into England, in 1652, by a Gieek called Pasqua. Until 
 1690 the only source of coffee supply was Arabia; in that year it was 
 taken to Java by traders who plied between Java and the Arabian Gulf. 
 One of the first plants grown in that Island was sent to Holland, where, 
 as a rare plant, it was placed in the botanical garden at Amsterdam. The 
 New World perhaps obtained its supply from a single plant, which a 
 French naval officer carried to Martinique, in the West Indies, in 1720. 
 The species have been subdivided, and 16 kinds are now produced in 
 Brazil alone — which supplies more than half the coffee of the world. 
 It is grown extensively in Peru, British Guiana, Mexico and other Ameri- 
 can countries. It produces the best beans at an altitude of from 1.000 
 to 3,000 ft., albeit it grows and flaunts its handsome white flowers al- 
 most at the water’s edge. It grows but does not thrive at 5,000 ft. 
 Warmth, moisture, shade and the proper altitude are indispensable 
 requisites in its satisfactory cultivation. Coffee is usually planted be- 
 tween rows of banana trees sufficient in number to shade the young plants; 
 these are quick growers and they produce marketable coffee in two or 
 three years. If allowed, the bushes would attain a height of 20 ft. or more; 
 they are usually nipped in at about 6 ft. from the ground so that the plant 
 may attain to greater strength and present a surface from which the 
 berries may be picked easily by one standing on the ground. The leaves 
 j are broad and of a glossy green, sometimes concealing the berries which 
 cluster along the slender twigs and branches. The blossoms are very 
 pretty and are similar in color and texture to a small tube-rose. The 
 berry is shaped like a small bean, and two of these are found side by side, 
 adhering bv their flat surfaces, enclosed in a pulp covered by an outer 
 skin; forming a double berry the size of a cherry. When the green ber- 
 ries turn to a bright red they are gathered, dried in the sun on level floors 
 of stone or cement, separated, hulled and stored. The range of the coffee 
 plant extends only between the isothermals of 25° north and 30° south 
 of the equator, and it cannot be successfully grown in places where the 
 temperature is ever below 50° Fahr. “Difference in locality of pro- 
 duction has,” says an authority, “little to do with the flavor of the cof- 
 fee, notwithstanding a general belief to the contrary.” 
 
 134 K. Orizaba, see below. For a continuation of the jour- 
 ney, see p. 493. 
 
 54. Orizaba and Environs. 
 
 The Railway Station is about 4 M. S.-W of the Plaza, near which are 
 the chief hotels. Tram-cars meet all trains and pass the principal hotels. 
 
 Autos SI. 50 for £ hr. or less. 
 
 Hotels (Comp. p. xlvii). Grand Hotel de France. — Hotel Diligencias; 
 rates in both for rooms, from $2 up per day. Meals a la carta. Special 
 arrangements can be made for board and lodging on the American plan. 
 
 Banks. Banco Nacional de Mexico; Juan C. Gutierrez (English spoken), 
 correspondents of the Mex. City Banking Corporation, S. A. 
 
 Orizaba (4,028 ft.), a quaint and unusually attractive 
 
490 Route 04 . 
 
 ORIZABA 
 
 provincial city (pop. 45,000) in the rich and productive state 
 of Vera Cruz, one of the most important manufacturing 
 centres in the Republic, and much frequented as a winter 
 resort, is picturesquely situated in a green, well-watered 
 valley where eternal springtime reigns, midway between the 
 tropics and the cool tableland of the higher reaches. It oc- 
 cupies the site of an Indian village which is said to have existed 
 centuries before the Spaniards came. History records that 
 the Aztecs conquered it in 1547, and that they named it 
 Ahuaializapan (joyful waters) because of the many streams 
 which burst from the verdure -covered acclivities of the mt. 
 sides and dash away down the vale to lower levels. One of 
 these gurgling streams, the Orizaba, plunges through a rocky 
 ravine in the city, and adds a picturesque charm to it. Its 
 power was utilized by the utilitarian Spaniards as early as 
 1553, when they established a flour-mill — perchance the first 
 one erected in America. The town received its charter in 1774. 
 
 Orizaba is a felicitous blend of the useful and the orna- 
 mental; it combines much beauty with a great deal of utility, 
 for it is one of the greatest manufacturing centres in the 
 Republic. The largest cotton mills in Mexico, the Compahia 
 Industrial de Orizaba , S. A., are here, and they employ 6,009 
 workers, operate 100,000 spindles and 4,000 weaving machines, 
 and utilize, as a motive force, 9,000 horse-power generated 
 from their own hj^droelectric plant near by. — The second 
 largest company, the Cia. Industrial Veracruzana, S . A ., 
 employs more than 2,000 workers. — The most extensive 
 brewery in the Republic, The Cerveceria Moctezuma, is located 
 here, and from it there go daily many carloads of light beer to 
 all sections of the country. — Here also are the huge La 
 Violeta Cigar Factories, of Gustavo Mayer y Cia., whence 
 come the celebrated La Violeta, La Sin Rival, and La Rica 
 Hoja brands of cigars — known favorably wherever smokers 
 foregather. — This company, with the famous Balsa Her - 
 manos, at Vera Cruz City, supplies practically all the high 
 grade cigars smoked in Mexico. The choicest tobacco in the 
 Republic grows in the favored climate and soil of the State, 
 and much of it is equal, if not superior to, the world-known 
 Vuelta Abajo product of Cuba. — The big Santa Gertrudis 
 Jute M ill at Orizaba is operated with English capital. 
 
 The somewhat unique position of Orizaba — halfway between the 
 tierra fria and the tierra caliente — endows it with many products of the 
 tropic and temperate zones, and with a climate at once delightfully pure 
 and mild. It has long been the favorite resort of fever-stricken persons 
 from the lowlands, and of the frost-nipped residents of the higher al- 
 titudes. Many wealthy Yucatan planters spend their summers here. The 
 town was the chosen retreat of Maximilian and the Empress Carlota 
 during their meteoric career in Mexico. The rainfall is heavy, and the 
 phenomenally developed flora is beautiful. The red-tiled roofs of the 
 houses blend harmoniously with the all-prevalent green foliage, and the 
 wide gardens which surround some of the native homes impart the as- 
 pect of a country village. The snow-capped Pico de Orizaba peers above 
 
ORIZABA 54 . Route. 491 
 
 the hills N. of the town, and from the zig-zag paths which terrace them 
 superb views are to be had. 
 
 The Plaza Principal (called also Parques Castillo e Hidalgo), with a 
 band-stand, parterres of flowers, palms, cedars, roses, azaleas and cacti, 
 is an attractive spot. The imposing marble statue (made in Genoa and 
 cost 13,000 pesos ) of the Defensores de la P atria was erected in 1903. 
 The inscription (in Sp.) on the S. side says the monument is dedicated 
 “to the sons of the state of Veracruz, who defended the country and 
 Orizaba City in 1847-48” (refers to the war with the United States). 
 The inscription on the base says the shaft was erected with the aid of the 
 Central Government and the cantones of the state. On the N. side is the 
 Latin inscription: Victrix cavsa Deis Placvit tied Victa Catoni. Lucano. 
 At the W. side of the plaza is a marble shaft surmounted by a bronzed, 
 life-size figure (unveiled Sept: 16, 1901, and cost 89,000) of the Cura de 
 Dolores in the attitude of voicing the famous grito (comp. p. 106). Below 
 is the date 1810. On the S. side is “ P atria e Independencia ,” and below, 
 “ Orizaba to Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla .” An ecclesiastical monument to 
 the memory of the Cura D. Nicolas de Llano stands at the W. corner of 
 the church atrium. The long inscription (in Sp.) refers to his exemplary 
 life during his stay in Orizaba (1833-1849). Flanking the plaza on the 
 S. side is the Tedlro Llave. At the N. is the Palacio Municipal , an iron 
 structure (cost 8100,000) of Belgian origin. The Salon de Cabildos and 
 the chief local offices of the Government are in this building. The bronze 
 bust of Columbus, in the smail garden, formerly stood in the Alameda, 
 or Prado Colon. 
 
 The Parochial Church (La Parroquia), begun about 1690, com- 
 pleted in 1720 and dedicated to San Miguel, flanks the plaza on the N. 
 and is the most interesting temple in the city. It has an unusual number 
 of domes, one of them tile-covered, after the Mudejar style. The un- 
 gainly square tower (completed in 1732) serves as a belfry, a clock-tower 
 (the clock is of French make and dates from 1867) and a meteorological 
 observatory. The huge bulk of the edifice presents many odd archi- 
 tectural features, most of them dating from the early colonial period. 
 At one side of the unusually large atrium, at the base of the tower, are 4 
 tablets, the chief one referring to the geographical situation of the city. 
 The frowning facade and the great, nail-studded doors impart a sinister 
 aspect to the building. It has 5 entrances, 3 on the W. and 2 facing the 
 S. — the main entrance and one leading into the sacristy. Let into the 
 wall on the r. of the former is a marble tablet with a coat-of-arms and 
 the inscription: “A Dios Optimo y Maximo en accion de gracias al termi- 
 nar el Siglo XIX de la redencion del humano linaje; el Pueblo Orizabeho ” 
 (to the great and omnipotent God in thanks for the end of the 19th cent, 
 of the redemption of the human race. The people of Orizaba). A quaint 
 campanario and four squat towers are visible above the S. entrance. 
 The bizarre decorations (the main altar was redecorated in 1907) of the 
 interior recalls some of the pagan temples of the Orient. There are a 
 number of interesting mural paintings by the local painter Barranco. 
 Prior to 1834 this ch. was noted for its many beautiful altars, which have 
 now disappeared. A relic of the old days is the splendid vestuario or 
 chest of drawers, inlaid with bone and ivory, in the sacristia 4 In this room 
 is an unusually good mural painting, The Last Supper , with the inscription 
 “ Uno de yosotros me ha de entregar " — one of you will betray me. On 
 the opposite wall is a Cristo washing the feet of a poor man. Both pic- 
 tures bear the date 1873 and are the work of Gabriel Barranco. Several 
 of the chapels contain paintings by the same artist, and by his father. 
 
 Churches of minor interest are Santa Maria de los Ciervos , Quinta 
 Calle de la Santa Escuela — Nuestra Seiiora del Carmen, facing the 
 
 1 Travellers interested in this species of inlaid work will sometimes 
 find excellent specimens in Mexico. The genuine pieces were brought 
 from Spain soon after the Conquest. Later the work was copied, with 
 more or less skill, by native craftsmen in Puebla; but the wood em- 
 ployed was inferior, and bone inlay took the place of ivory. Chests of 
 drawers and secretaires that would grace a palace are sometimes the 
 reward of diligent search through the antique shops of Mexico City. 
 
492 Route 54. 
 
 ORIZABA 
 
 Parque Alberto Lopez — San Juan de Dios, flanking the plaza of the 
 same name — Nuestra Senora de los Dolores, Calle de la Libertad — San 
 Jose de Gracia, Ave. Jose Maria Morelos, and El Calvario, in the 4th 
 C. Benito Juarez. — The Statue to Benito Pablo Juarez, in the Calle Real, 
 was erected in 1906 to commemorate the centenary of the patriot’s birth. 
 — The inscription on the house number 17 in the Ave. de la Libertad 
 refers to the capture of the town by Morelos on Oct. 29, 1812. That on 
 the house No. 6 in the 3 a Calle de San Miguel refers to the visit of the 
 Generallsimo D. Agustin de Iturbide in 1821. The Alameda, or Prado 
 Colon, at the base of the Cerro del Borrego , served as a corral for the 
 horses of the troops during the French Intervention. The white marble 
 monument (of European origin) which stands here to the memory of 
 General D. Ignacio de la Llave (1818-1863) was unveiled in 1898. The 
 inscription refers to his services to the State of Vera Cruz Llave , which is 
 named in his honor. He was born at Orizaba, in the house (commemora- 
 tive tablet) No. 30 in the 2d Calle de San Rafael. 
 
 The gifted writer, Frederic R. Guernsey, says of Orizaba: “If you 
 are nervous and need to get the nerve strain out, try Orizaba. Its climate 
 is very restful, and, as you can be lodged well and be sure of good meals, 
 there is bound to be a gain in health and strength. . . . The worst case 
 of brain fag will yield to a stay in a place where the scenery is delightful, 
 where one may drive out to coffee plantations and orange groves, and 
 where the air has a soothing quality of which I speak by experience. A 
 word to intending tourists next autumn and winter. Put Orizaba in vour 
 note-book and plan to stay at least a w 7 eek. Orizaba has a fama of being 
 a wet place. This charming and wnnderfullv picturesque little city is 
 sometimes called ‘the w 7 atering-pot of Mexico.-’ Yet this is a cool place. 
 It has been right along, at noon, up in the City of Mexico, 90 to 93° Fahr. 
 in the sun (not shade), and here in the sun it has ranged about 78°, and 
 nowhere a bit uncomfortable. In this city one can be very comfortable 
 all the year round, and the eye may feast on scenery which is ruggedly 
 and grandly mountainous. 
 
 “ There is a great and wholly admirable market w T here one sees a variety 
 of fruit, flowers, and vegetables, not to speak of grains and meat, etc., 
 that is astonishing. Fruits of the hot country, luscious, mouth-melting 
 pineapples, bananas galore, mangoes, golden and enticing, watermelons 
 in heaps, cocoanuts in huge piles, the warm red of tomatoes in vast 
 pyramids, oranges superbly yellow 7 , limes, mameyes browrn outside and 
 red within, and excellent for the stomach; in a word, all the fruits one 
 can want or imagine, and flowers: Gardenias in great bunches, 25 to 37 
 cents; lilies for the church, dirt cheap. Roses, of every hue legitimate in 
 a rose. 
 
 “It is interesting to note the Yucatan people summering here. Their 
 Spanish has that queer Maya click in it, and some of them have a good 
 portion of Maya blood; and show 7 it in their broad faces, in their noses 
 and ears. That Maya race w 7 as once tremendously strong; built temples 
 and cities and flourished in one of the hottest regions of the earth. I have 
 friends that, by courtesy, pass for white people, who have the blood of 
 the Mayas, and they always impress me in a mystical way, seeming to be 
 reincarnated Maya priests, and it would never shock me to learn that in 
 private, and with truly religious motives, they offered human sacrifices 
 to the gods! One friend has all the learning of our times, such as it is, and 
 would be accounted cultured in Cambridge, Massachusetts, circles. 
 
 “Not a few 7 men of great intellect are from the hot country, and some 
 of the most forceful men in this modern Mexico. And it is curious to 
 note among scholarly men of Indian blood from the true tropics their 
 perfect command of Spanish and all its elegancies of the subjunctive 
 which gives so many delicate shades of meaning. The Indian in Mexico 
 is often an erudite, scholarly, and highly cultivated man. 
 
 “ It would be a pretty dull w 7 orld w 7 ith color left out of the human race, 
 and everybody white and etiolated as in cities. When you bleach the 
 human plant you take lots of agreeable things out of it. Down on the 
 Gulf Coast there are many negroes and many people w-ith African blood, 
 which is a good blood to temper a man, for a hot climate. 
 
 “Some proud and wealthy families have strains of negro and Indian 
 
ORIZABA 
 
 52. Route. 493 
 
 blood, and it is well to reflect that in negro blood is something that makes 
 for joyousness and an appreciation of the good things of life. An educated 
 man with ‘ black ’ blood is a bon vivant , a raconteur , and has much poetry. 
 Allah in his infinite wisdom put men of many colors on our planet and 
 pronounced the color scheme good. 
 
 “Here, in Orizaba , one sees the whole human color plan, and the good 
 Indian blood, while a little tending to melancholy, gives faithfulness, 
 persistence, and proud taciturnity. Compared to these people of varying 
 hue. how tame the white crowds of far northern cities! Indian maidens 
 in these regions are well modelled, real women, and not clients of nerve 
 specialists. They are built to have children and to nurse them at the 
 maternal fount. 
 
 “Our white race is immensely proud of itself, ‘well paid with itself,’ 
 as the Spanish puts it, and has got an idea, surely insane, that it is about 
 all there is worth preserving on earth. Which is preposterous. In ages 
 to come, in these lands of the South, in climates where snow does not 
 fall, where Nature is always active, the magic of the sun will keep people 
 shades darker than in the far North, where skies are gray and northern 
 blasts howl across the wintry landscapes. 
 
 “There will be a new race of tropical Americans down in these regions, 
 men who will have their summer homes among the hills of Orizaba and 
 Jalapa, rearing their children in a temperate climate, and making of the 
 hill country what the Anglo-Indians do of their northern and moun- 
 tainous India, a summer resort.” 
 
 Excursions. Many pleasant walks and rides in the environs. Tram- 
 cars, which leave from the centre of the town, will take the traveller to In- 
 genio, Nogales (with a large marble quarry and works), Santa Rosa, Santa 
 Gertrudis, El Barrio Nuevo, etc. ; all pretty spots. The Cascades of Y ute and 
 Tuxpango, as well as that of Rincon Grande, are very picturesque. 
 
 An attractive excursion is to the Power-House at Tuxpango, which sup- 
 plies electric current to the cities of Vera Cruz and Puebla, and which is 
 to be utilized to electrify the railway between Orizaba and Esperanza. Per- 
 mission should be obtained from the company to visit the Fall, which is 
 reached by means of a (private property) cable-way which lets the ' isitor 
 down, at a sharp angle, into the Tuxpango Valley, several hundred feet 
 below Orizaba. 
 
 The attractive sugar- and coffee- hacienda of Jalapilla (2 M.) is one 
 of the show places; it was the favorite country residence of Maxmilian and 
 the Empress Carlota. 
 
 Hightop boots or Puttee Leggins are advisible as a protection against 
 skinburrowing insects, when cross-country walks or mt. climbs are under- 
 taken. If one’s time is limited it is advisable to employ as a guide one 
 of the many small boys to be found in or about the hotels. 
 
 El Cerro del Borrego (Hill of the Lamb), which the train crosses just 
 before it reaches Orizaba, was the scene of a stirring engagement (June 13 
 and 14, 1862) between the French Zouaves and the Mexican troops. 
 El Cerro de Escamela, E. of the town, contains quarries of gray mar- 
 ble. A card of admission may be secured (no charge) from the hotel 
 manager. 
 
 Orizaba , see p. 489. The rly. line parallels the Rio Blanco and 
 crosses three of its tributaries. We traverse fertile fields and 
 wooded foothills. 138 K. Rio Blanco . The cotton-mills here 
 are among the largest in Mexico; the scenery recalls certain 
 stretches of the Austrian Tyrol. 140 K. Nogales. The train 
 enters a gloomy barranca, El Infiernillo — little hell — and 
 crosses dizzy acclivities, passing through tunnels and over 
 streams which have worn deep chasms in the trap-rock. A 
 black cross on an eminence hard by marks the last resting- 
 place of some unfortunate, and points the fate of whosoever 
 slips from the winding track above. We pass a number of 
 pretty waterfalls and cascades. The train climbs steadily 
 
494 Route 52. 
 
 MALTRATA 
 
 upward, and, coincidently, the scenery changes. Fine views 
 in retrospect. Conifers and mountain scrub-oaks take the 
 place of banana and coffee groves. The grades here are so 
 heavy that the trains are often run in two sections. From the 
 crests of the hills we obtain fine views of the Santa Rosa Mills 
 in the valley. We penetrate a winding tunnel and emerge into 
 a rich little valley, La Joy a (the jewel) ; near the centre, more 
 than a mile above the spires of Vera Cruz, is the station of 
 
 152 K. Maltrata (5,544 ft.). The vale is encircled by tall 
 hills, rising grandly above which is the splendid cone of Orizaba . 
 Peach-trees are plentiful and the train is met at the station by 
 a score or more Indian women with peaches, pomegranates, 
 avocado-pears, tamales, tortillas, and confits for sale. Goitre, 
 which is common in other mountainous regions of the world, 
 is noticeable among these women, who are nevertheless sturdy 
 and attractive. Before leaving Maltrata the engineer descends 
 from his cab and wdth wrench and oiler in hand carefully in- 
 spects the rods, nuts and bolts of the locomotive; then we 
 whisk out of the station in a whirl of energy, as if determined 
 to compass the mountains ahead by irresistible might. A 
 beautiful waterfall plunges into a gorge on the 1. The train 
 zig-zags up the hills, approaching them over great curves and 
 winning them by daring runs across terraces cut from their 
 sides. In retrospect we can trace the road below as it doubles 
 and twists and loops its way downward among the valleys; 
 at times as many as six lines of rails are visible, like silver 
 ribbons in the depths, with many aerial, spider-like bridges, 
 which from here seem to dip like steel flumes. Far away, at 
 the bottommost point of the valley, are Santa Rosa, Rio 
 Blanco and Nogales. Between this point and the edge of the 
 highland the train runs north, east, south and west, as it 
 climbs upward. The air grows perceptibly cooler. 
 
 166 K. Alta Luz. Hard by is a water-tank, perched like a 
 Japanese temple on the crest of a ridge which we have reached 
 over a gradient of nearly 5% through rock-cuts hung with 
 ferns, dripping w r ith water and redolent of wild-flowers. The 
 water springs from a hidden source tapped while severing the 
 back of a giant buttress upholding the mt. side. The environ- 
 ing hills are clothed in pines and oaks, and giant cacti cling 
 like huge green rosettes to the mt. wall. The scene is more like 
 New Hampshire than tropical Mexico. Here the train (which 
 on rainy days often passes through low-lying clouds) stands 
 2,919 ft. higher than the topmost point of Mt. Washington, 
 and the panorama is magnificent. We approach one of the 
 most dangerous and ticklish points on the line: Winner's 
 Bridge (90 ft. long) spans a yawning chasm from the ridge of 
 which the scenery is awe-inspiring and of surpassing grandeur. 
 In a perfectly flat valley diapered in different shades of green, 
 3,000 ft. below and 10 M. distant by the rails, are the red-tiled 
 
ESPERANZA 52. Route. 495 
 
 roofs, the Liliputian church, and the garden fields of Maltrata 
 village. 
 
 At this great distance and elevation the houses resemble match-boxes 
 and the cows look no larger than dogs. The town is exposed to our gaze 
 like a relief map, and in the centre stands a white-walled, red-domed 
 church which bears an astonishing likeness to one of the toy churches of 
 childhood — the plaster-of-Paris affair with red-stained mica windows 
 and the illuminating candle within. The tremendous vista delights the 
 eye, and the knowledge of altitude and distance charms the senses. Far 
 to the left the watchful, ever-present volcano rears its hoary head above 
 serried ranks of sombre pines. Between this point and the valleys miles 
 below, the vegetation changes with each gradation of climate, and on the 
 most distant, sun-lit lowlands the coquettish palms flash faint, helio- 
 , graphic signals — like ardent love-calls — over miles of flower-flecked 
 I valley-land, to the cool, brooding cypresses 5,000 ft. above them. 
 
 , The giddy ride along perpendicular cliffs and over majestic amphi- 
 j theatres spanned by daring bridges is a memorable one. At every turn 
 fresh beauties reveal themselves; hill is piled upon hill, vales merge 
 and lose themselves in far-spreading valleys. As the train creeps across 
 a spider-like bridge flung above some stupendous chasm, the sight 
 drops a straight 2,000 ft. before it rests on anything on which a blade 
 of grass or a tropical creeper can lay hold. Roaring waterfalls burst 
 from hidden gorges or clefts in the mountains, and tear away like mad 
 things in their search for lower levels. Finally, when the cars creep and 
 skirl along one of the Maltrata cumbres, and edge around a sheer preci- 
 pice whence the dilated eye dominates a thousand square miles of 
 mountain ridge and tropical valley, the scenery attains its greatest 
 achievement : the experience is akin to that the traveller feels as he rounds 
 Sensation Rock on the Kandy (Island of Ceylon) Railway, or when he 
 stands on a commanding spur of the Matterhorn and gazes with speech- 
 i less admiration at the wonderful panorama spread out before him. We 
 cross a fear-inspiring bridge on a curve smaller than that of the Metlac 
 bridge, then, after diving through a long tunnel we come to 
 
 173 K. Boca del Monte , on the eastern edge of the great Mex- 
 ican Plateau, 7,849 ft. above Vera Cruz and the sea. Since 
 leaving that port we have climbed 1^ M. above the fortress 
 of S. J. de Ulua , and we have touched three zones — the 
 tierra caliente, tierra templada and tierra fria. Could we see the 
 city at this distance straight below, its houses would appear 
 mere pin-points on a white ground ; its cocoa-palms a green 
 blur in the landscape, and the ships in the bay but toy boats 
 afloat in a pool. We should, it would seem, be in cloudland, 
 but the arching sky high above is a beautiful cobalt blue. The 
 air is so clear that details of the landscape stand out with 
 startling distinctness. A range of huge mts. cuts the western 
 sky-line, and behind the ramparts are Popocatepetl , lztacci- 
 huatl, Malinche, Ajusco, and the giants which guard the Valley 
 of Mexico. 
 
 179 K. Esperanza. Rly. restaurant. Meals $2. At this sta- 
 tion are huge ware-rooms for storing dried coffee, which would 
 spoil in the moist lowlands where it is grown. 
 
 A branch railway ( F . C. Mex. del Sur — Ramal de Esperanza) leads 
 hence (one train daily in about 4 hrs.) to Tehuacan (p. 526) through 
 El Salado, Cariada Morelos , Ramal del Molino, Llano Grande , Rancho de 
 Cabras, El Carmen and Miahuatldn. Consult the Guia Oficial. 
 
496 Route 52 . PICO DE ORIZABA 
 
 A fine view of the Fico de Orizaba is had from Esperanza. 
 
 From the time the traveller leaves Vera Cruz for the capital this om- 
 nipresent, hoary-headed sentinel appears to watch him just as the 
 swift runners of Montezuma spied on Cortes and his men and reported 
 their advance, league by league, to the anxious monarch in Andhuac. 
 When the morning sun tips the almost perfect cone with a fugitive glory 
 of golden light, or when twilight casts about it its mantle of crimson 
 and violet shadows, the imagination easily pictures it as an Aztec signal 
 fire flashing a warning to Malintzi, thence onward to Popocatepetl and 
 the “ White Woman/' the guardian spirits of Tenochtiildn. The volcano 
 shoots up ostensibly from the very plain on which Esperanza stands, as 
 if to advise that it, too, has climbed the ramparts of the hills and now 
 girds itself for the swift race to the ancient Aztec stronghold. “Orizaba 
 has,” says a witty writer, “what mortals rarely possess united: a warm 
 heart, with a clear, cold head!” 
 
 Though not so accessible as Popocatepetl, Orizaba , the monarch of 
 Mex. mountains, has been several times ascended. The first essay was 
 made by a party of American officers (of Scott's army) in 1848; the second 
 by a Frenchman, Alexander Doignon, in 1851. When Doignon reached 
 the summit he found planted there the tattered, wind-whipped remnant 
 of an American flag, with the date 1848 cut into the staff. Hitherto the 
 mountain had been regarded as wholly unscalable, and it was not until 
 the daring Frenchman made this second attempt (which almost cost him 
 his life) that the natives credited the story and accorded the honor of 
 the achievement to the modest Americans. An iron cross now surmounts 
 it. The Mt. is shaped like a great ant-hill: climbers experience but little 
 difficulty, as there are no avalanches. The glissade from the summit 
 down to snow-line is very exhilarating. The starting-point for the top 
 is from the little village of San Andres Chalchicomula (birth-place of the 
 poet Manuel M. Flores ), whence several parties start during the year. 
 One or two dry and commodious caves, on the trail, serve as fine spots in 
 which to camp. The natives at the base get ice from the higher reaches 
 of the mountain. The management of the Mexican Rly. (at Buena Vista 
 station, Mex. City) will aid climbers to plan the ascent. 
 
 According to Aztec Mythology, Quetzalcoatl , God of the Air (p. 304), 
 died at Coatzacoalcos (p. 550) after his departure from Cholula. and his 
 body was brought to the peak of Orizaba, where it was consumed by a 
 divine fire. His royal spirit took flight heaven-ward in the guise of a 
 peacock, since when the Mt. has borne the name (Indian) of Citlaltepetl 
 — mountain of the star. The ancient Aztecs believed his spirit would 
 return to Mexico, and to the present-day Aztecs the Mt. stands in almost 
 the same religious light that Fuji-no-Y ama stands to the Japanese. 
 Humboldt referred to it as one of the finest peaks of the Mexican 
 Andes. It is 18,225 ft. high, and it was considered the culminating point 
 of North America, until Mt. McKinley (in Alaska) was found to measure 
 over 22,000 ft. 
 
 203 K. San Andres. The run hence to the capital is across 
 the Central Plateau, which is practically level hereabout. 
 During and after the rainy season many wuld-flowers enliven 
 the landscape. During the dry season the running train is apt 
 to detach clouds of fine dust which is very persistent and 
 penetrating. 
 
 A railway line (Fcrrocarril de Chalchicomula) runs hence (2 trains 
 dailvin 1 hr.) to Chalchicomula, where travellers may plan for the ascent 
 of the Pico de Orizaba. 
 
 242 K. San M areas, junction of the Interoceanic Rly. (Rte. 
 55), in a district celebrated for apples with a taste like sweet 
 crab-apples. A tompiate (small round basket) of these may be 
 
APIZACO 
 
 52. Route. 497 
 
 purchased in the season for 25 c. The town is in the state of 
 Tlaxcala, whose people were at war with Montezuma when 
 the Spaniards reached Mexican shores, and who tested the 
 prowess of the Europeans in a fierce battle. They were de- 
 feated by the white strangers, with whom they made an alli- 
 ance, and whose stanch allies they became — saving them 
 more than once from annihilation. The isolated peak of 
 Malinche rises close at hand (left), and affords a fine view. Ma- 
 linche, or Malintzi [ (sorceress), 14,740 ft., is often covered 
 with snow: the natives secure this, mix in lemon and orange 
 juice, and offer it for sale at the station. Much Indian corn 
 and wheat are cultivated hereabout, and the spiky aloe and 
 nopal cacti are used as hedge fences. 259 K. Huamantla , noted 
 for its many churches (uninteresting) and many beggars, most 
 j of them pulque- soaked and blear-eyed. The poor town lies on 
 the slope of a hill to the 1. of the station. It is celebrated in 
 American war annals as the place where Captain S. H . Walker , 
 one of the most dashing and chivalrous figures in the war with 
 Mexico, was killed. 
 
 285 K. Apizaco: junction of the branch line to (p. 508) 
 Puebla (47 K., 4 trains daily in 1J hr.), trains for which leave 
 from a siding in the same station. There is a rly. refreshment 
 room in the station. Venders of peaches, pulque (p. lxxxii), 
 
 | parakeets, a great variety of canes, onyx souvenirs and what- 
 i not occupy the station platform. The onyx (p. xcvi) pieces, 
 from the quarries near Puebla, are clumsy imitations of better 
 work obtainable either at Puebla or Mex. City. Some of the 
 large canes (often sold to the credulous as coffee-wood) are 
 {made of cedar ( fresno ), and are crudely carved with the na- 
 I tional emblem ; with bulls, serpents, liberty-caps and cacti. The 
 ! small, flexible canes are made of a native wood called clasistle; 
 
 | prices (bargaining necessary) range from 5 c. to one peso. Bet- 
 ter specimens are also to be obtained at the antique shops of 
 the capital. The rolls of biscuits (crackers) or galletas, which 
 are put up in bamboo splits and sold (25 c. the package) at this 
 station, are baked in the local panaderias. 295 K. Mufioz. 
 
 300 K. Guadalupe (not to be confounded with Guadalupe- 
 Hidalgo, with its celebrated shrine, on the outskirts of Mex. 
 City). At the Ocotlan siding we reach the highest point on the 
 line, 8,333 ft. above Vera Cruz and 986 ft. higher than Mexico 
 City. From this point the plain slopes gradually to the Valley 
 of Mexico. 314 K. Soltepec. 331 K. Apam , in the heart of the 
 great maguey region known as the “ pulque district.” The 
 Plains of Apam are as celebrated for pulque as the Valle Na- 
 tional is for tobacco and Yucatan for henequen. Here the 
 pulque-pvodnoing aloe ( Agave Americana ), commonly known 
 
 1 The correct name of Malinche is Matlacueyatl. Malinche was a 
 nick-name given by the Aztecs to Doha Marina , mistress of and in- 
 
408 Route 5S. 
 
 IROLO — OTUMBA 
 
 in tin* U. S. A. as the Century Plant, attains its greatest per- 
 frrtion. Broad fields stretch away on every side, unbounded 
 1 . v walls and crossed by symmetrical rows of the huge, spiky 
 plants which resemble exaggerated artichokes. Numerous 
 t !>■,, mla buildings with battlemented, fort-like w^alls and bar- 
 : c i lined towersaot t he landscape. Many tlachiqueros (p.lxxxiii) 
 c ui U- seen at work, while donkeys with barrels swung pan- 
 • be over their backs, and men with pig-skin receptacles 
 c arry the nauseous liquid to the fermenting rooms. The un- 
 i n ; i 'led pulque sold at the station (and elsewhere) is apt to be 
 adulterated and should be avoided. 
 
 47 K. Irolo. A branch line ( ramal ) of the F err ocarril Hidalgo 
 y \ • sU runs hence to (28 kilom. ) Pachuca (p. 422), 1 train 
 
 daily in about 2 hrs., passing through the towns of Amaninalco , 
 San Isidro, Tlanalopa , Santa lues, Venta de Cruz , Tanque and 
 Sun A gust in. The line of the F. C. Interoceanico crosses the 
 Mexican Rly. at this point. 356 Iv. Ometusco. A branch fine 
 of the Mexican Rly. runs hence to (46 kilom.) Pachuca, 2 
 trains daily in 4 hrs., touching at Venta de Cruz, Zempoalla , 
 Tepn. Sandoval and San Jose. Considerable pulque is pro- 
 due- 1 in the environs of Ometusco. 363 K. LaPalma. 369 K. 
 Otumba , the Otompan of the Aztecs; a poor town 2 M. to the r. 
 
 < »f the station. The plain of Otumba was the scene of one of the 
 honest 1 -attics fought between Spaniards and Indians in the 
 Now World. CorU's and his army had been ignominiouslv 
 
 < j'-oted from the Aztec city, and they w T ere on the march to 
 Vera Cruz to recuperate their shattered forces. For a descrip- 
 t i -r- < »f tin- battle (in which it is said 20,000 Indians w^ere slain) 
 ( ‘insult Prescott’s Conquest of Mexico, vol. ii, pp. 379 et seq. 
 
 370 K. // ueyapan , in the midst of a flat plain dotted with 
 vi-lo corn-fields, in which are skeleton bamboo lookouts that 
 ri e 20 or more feet above the ground. Indian boys occupy 
 tb-e fragile towers, swayed by every wdnd, and they are sup- 
 P • 1 to maintain a sharp watch for crow T sand thieves: where 
 a line of trees flank the milpas the youngsters may be seen 
 perch< • 1 in the highest branches, as much at home 50 ft. or 
 n ■ -re a 1 >< >ve the ground as would be any member of the Simian 
 tril " The long line of electric wires supported by steel towers 
 visible on the r. (one of the longest electrical transmission 
 hu* - in the Repub.) brings electrical energy into the city from 
 Ci-' Fall of Necaxa (p. 517). 3S0 Iv. San Juan Teotihuacan. 
 i : - groat Pyramids (see p. 425) are visible to the right. 391 Iv. 
 7/ /” rpan. The shallow, brackish waters of Lake Texcoco 
 on the L, and long strips of alkali-imp reg- 
 nato. i oil show how the lacustrine bed has shrunk. The alkali, 
 a notable feature of the Valley of Mexico, renders the soil arid 
 and retards vegetable growth. 401 Iv. San Cristobal. We pass 
 a numl>er of hills, like ancient ramparts, and soon the hill and 
 church spires of Guadalupe (p. 392) are seen on the far right. 
 
MEXICO CITY TO JALAPA, ETC. 55. Rte. 499 
 
 During the two centuries which succeeded the Conquest the journey 
 from Guadalupe (the outpost of the capital) to V era Cruz , was made on 
 horse, or mule-back, or on foot, and was a formidable undertaking. 
 At the beginning of the 19th cent, litters (literal) were employed be- 
 tween Vera Cruz and Jalapa (p. 503), and a line of coaches ran thence 
 \o the capital. In 1833 the first stage-line was established between Mex- 
 ico City and Jalapa , and it was extended later to the coast. The journey 
 was attended by many dangers. The unhappy travellers were held up, 
 robbed and sometimes murdered. Bandidos (bandits) infested almost 
 every mile of the road. Three bone-breaking days were required for 
 the trip; the fare of $50 was collected in advance. 
 
 420 K. Guadalupe ; the station for the sacred shrine, de- 
 scribed at p. 392. Bits of ruined causeways, churches doing 
 duty as rly. store-rooms, neglected plazas and lines of multi- 
 colored, squat and dreary-looking houses advertise the tawdry 
 suburbs of the capital. The train soon enters the clean and 
 commodious Buena Vista Station. Hand-bags are tumbled 
 through the windows to waiting cargadores (comp. p. liifr). 
 
 Taxicabs and their drivers ( choferes ; see p. 238) are to be 
 found in the station yard. Hotel runners await the traveller 
 on the sidewalk. A small rly. restaurant serves passengers in 
 the station. Several other restaurants are to be found a half 
 square to the r., on the Calle de las Estaciones. The adminis- 
 tration offices of the rly. are in the station building. 424 K. 
 Mexico City, see p. 233. 
 
 55. From Mexico City to Texcoco, San Lorenzo, 
 Oriental, Jalapa and Vera Cruz. 
 
 INTEROCEAN IC RAILWAY OF MEXICO. 
 
 474 K. One through train daily, in 13 hrs. (fare, see p. xxxi) from the 
 Estacion de San Lctzaro (PI. J, 4). Rly. restaurant. The best of the mt. 
 scenery is between La Cima and Vera Cruz. To see this by daylight, 
 travellers usually proceed to Puebla (p. 508) and board an early morning 
 train from there (338 K. 1 train daily in 9 hrs., fare, p. xxxi). Jalapa (p. 
 503) is one of the quaintest and most charming of the Mexican towns and is 
 worth visiting. Trains for Puebla (several daily) leave from the same 
 station. Between Mex. City and Vera Cruz the line crosses the states of 
 Mexico, Tlaxcala, Puebla , and Vera C uz. 
 
 Mexico City, see p. 233. The train passes out through the 
 E. suburbs, parallels the line of the Mexican Rly. (p. 484) and 
 the old Tezcucan causeway, and traverses a swampy district 
 which is partly submerged during the rainy season. Lake 
 Texcoco is seen glistening in the distance, and a number of 
 churches, some of them old and dismantled, dot the landscape. 
 The first town of importance is 39 K. Texcoco (7,391 ft.), the 
 one-time rich and populous suburb of the Aztec metropolis, and 
 the seat of the Tezcucan kings. (The rly. usually runs special 
 Sunday excursion trains to this point ; leaving the Estacion de 
 San Ldzaro at 9 a. m. and returning at 5 p. m. Inclusive fare 50 c.) 
 Texcoco is now interesting chiefly for its historical associations. 
 
500 Rte. 55. MEXICO CITY TO JALAPA, ETC. T excoco. 
 
 F< *r many years preceding the Conquest it was the literary 
 centre of Andhuac, and it almost equalled the Aztec city cf 
 T> • '» hlitldn in social and political importance. Here the eru- 
 dite Xetzabualcoyotl (p. clvi), who was called the Tezcucan 
 Solomon, lived and wrote, and here the invading Spaniards 
 launched their brigantines (built in Tlaxcala and brought 
 hither in sections) against the island stronghold of the Aztecs. 
 At that time the lake of T excoco stretched to the distant hill 
 of ( 'h apuliepec (p. 379). Albeit some three hundred years have 
 pa-sed since the Spaniards devastated the region, the country 
 immediately adjacent to Texcoco is still strewn with Indian 
 relics, and the descendants of the early Tezcucans still cultivate 
 the land which belonged to their forefathers. For a descrip- 
 tion of life in Texcoco during its halcyon days consult Prescott’s 
 ('ofn/ucst oj Mexico , and Bancroft’s History of Mexico. Tetz- 
 cotzinco, an Indian hamlet 3 M. east of Texcoco , was a busy 
 mart before the Spanish invasion, and the environing country 
 was the favorite resort of N etzahualcoyotl. The ruins of several 
 Indian temples and graves are still to be seen. The locality is 
 of more interest to archaeologists than to the casual traveller. 
 
 A curious product of the Lake of Texcoco is the ajolote (Aztec axolotl , 
 fr<»: a nil — water, and xolotl — slave), a larval salamander (or tailed Batra- 
 
 < regarded (by the Indians) as edible. These repulsive looking creatures 
 a - from 6 to 10 inches long and are much sought. An extraordinary 
 t about them is that they are the young of a species of terrestrial 
 
 m ioi . 1 mblyslo ma tigrinum), well known over all the warmer parts 
 - I M.-\ic<. In Texcoco they never transform into adults, but remain 
 I " uient 1 y in the larval condition, yet become sexually mature when 
 a’ months old. This astonishing fact was long unknown. It was 
 
 r • v erded as a distinct animal, and named Siredon lichenoides. The dis- 
 
 < , i > of the truth was made accidentally in Paris in 1865, when some 
 11 j - ' in the aquarium of the Jardin des Plantes lost their gills and were 
 ' : “ dor rued into perfect amblystomas. A lady, studying in the univer- 
 
 • o! 1 n il erg, Frl. Marie Yon Chauvin , then undertook a series of 
 « <:• ful experiments with other captives, and worked out the complete 
 ! i-'or\ of metamorphosis, which is dependent (at least in Europe) on a 
 N ‘ narrow set of favorable circumstances, but differs in no essential 
 c. from that of other salamanders. Why the changes never take 
 phye in the Mexican lakes is unexplained. 
 
 I h<- , is,, loti known to many as a water-lizard — is one of the most 
 
 r * : -• ’•!.!'• reptile- in the Republic. It has bushy, external gills similar 
 
 permanently characterize the mud-puppy; the color is 
 ' : 1 “'ix'-. i bl.i- k and white; the tongue is broad and cartilaginous. The 
 i* white ami resembles that of an eel; it is said to be savory and 
 u r ‘ • me. The theories in regard to the axolotl (which is as much of a 
 
 M • x i . 1 1 1 _ - i ' • n t i > t s as the Platypus Ornithorhynchus is to 
 history of the observations above men- 
 Hans Gadow in Amphibia and Reptiles (1901), 
 ' l!,% references to other books and periodicals. Consult also the 
 
 ■ 11 n Report for 1877, a paper on the “Change of the Mexican 
 
 A \ ' 1 1 1 > 1 1 t * » an Amblystoma ’’ A preserved specimen of the axolotl may 
 
 1 ; in th<- Department of Natural History at the Museo Nacional 
 
 (p. 29K . of If ex. ( it V. 
 
 Of equal interest is that peculiar product, the marsh fly called axayacatl 
 ’ • -\cana , ‘ which deposits its eggs in incredible quantities 
 1 !i « r ' and rushes, and which are eagerly sought out and made into 
 
 " 1 l '/ ar "f Indians) cakes which are sold in the markets.” The 
 I nk l r.omas Gage, who visited Mexico in 1625 says: “The Indians 
 
MEXICO CITY TO JALAPA, ETC. 55. Rte. 501 
 
 gathered much of this and kept it in heaps, and made thereof cakes, like 
 unto brickbats — and they did eat this meal with as good a stomach as 
 we eat cheese; yea, and they hold opinion that this scum or fatness of the 
 water is the cause that such great number of fowl cometh to the lake 
 which in the winter season is infinite.” 
 
 ‘‘These cakes, ‘like unto brickbats,’ are sold in the markets to this 
 day, and the black heaps of the ahuauhtli, or ‘water-wheat,’ may be fre- 
 quently seen dotting the mud flats about the lakes, Texcoco especially. 
 The insects themselves (which are about the size of a house-fly) are 
 pounded into a paste, boiled in corn husks and thus sold. The eggs, 
 resembling fine fish roe, are compressed into a paste, mixed with eggs 
 of fowls, and form a staple article of food particularly called for during 
 Lent. The Indians have a - systematic method, by which they plant 
 bundles of reeds a few feet apart, with their tops sticking out of the 
 water. The insects deposit their eggs upon these reeds in such quantities 
 that they not only cover them, but depend in clusters. When com- 
 pletely covered, these bundles are removed from the water, shaken over 
 a sheet and replaced for a fresh deposit. Axayacatl signifies 4 water-face,’ 
 and is the symbol and name of the sixth king of Mexico, who entered upon 
 his reign about the year 1464, and continued in power thirteen years.” 
 
 The rly. line traverses a comparatively level country with 
 an upward slope and with mts. on the right. On the 1. can be 
 seen the celebrated Pyramids of San Juan Teotihuacan (p. 425) . 
 Vast magueyales dot the landscape, and trainloads of viscous 
 pulque (p. lxxxii) are shipped hence each morning to the capital . 
 The line of steel towers visible on the 1. support wires which 
 convey electrical energy from Necaxa (p. 517) to Mex. City. 
 70 K. Otumba, celebrated for a fierce battle between the In- 
 dians and the invading Spaniards. At 72 K. Soapayuca , the 
 line curves broadly to the 1. and we get fine vistas across the 
 fertile Plain of Otumba ( Olompan ), flecked with agave, nopal 
 cacti and tall yuccas. Our line flanks that of the Mex. Rly. 
 (p. 484) to 90 K. Irolo, a rly. junction. 
 
 100 K. San Lorenzo , with one of the finest pulque haciendas 
 in the state. The cluster of buildings (at the r.) are mediaeval 
 in appearance, and the chapel is quite as elaborate as one 
 would expect to find in a big town. The land is highly culti- 
 vated, and shows evidence of having supported a large popu- 
 lation in pre-Spanish days. The tall peaks of Popocatepetl (p. 
 463), Iztaccihuatl (p. 464) and Malintzi (p. 497) dominate the 
 surrounding country. The train enters a hilly region ; the hill- 
 sides are nearly all covered with spiky maguey plants. Hence 
 to Oriental the scenery differs in no wise from that we have 
 passed. The land is extraordinarily productive and it seems to 
 know no rest, one crop following another as fast as it can be 
 sown and garnered. Pulque , corn, wheat and barley are the 
 staples. 
 
 217 K. Oriental (7,693 ft.), an important rly. junction with 
 a refreshment room. Hotel hard by. The fruit offered for sale 
 at the station is poor. Branch rly. lines run hence to 80 K. 
 Teziutlan, to 89 K. Puebla , and to other towns on the Inter- 
 oceanic system. Consult the Guia Oficial. — 236 K. Tepeya- 
 liualco. Near by are haciendas devoted to the breeding and 
 
502 Rte . 55. MEXICO CITY TO JALAP A, ETC. Perote. 
 
 raising of some of the fiercest fighting bulls known to the Mex. 
 bull-ring. At some distance from the station are the remains 
 (uninteresting) of an ancient Indian city. 
 
 265 K. Perote (7,S53 ft. — about 400 ft. higher than Mex. 
 
 ( ’ity) . To the r. of the poor station is the frowning old fortress I 
 {fortaleza) of San Carlos de Perote (erected 1770-77), the 
 scene of several sanguinary battles between the Mexicans and 
 the French at the time of the French Intervention. Guadalupe 
 Victoria, the first president of independent Mexico, died here 
 in 1S43. The Amer. soldiers under General Worth occupied the 
 fort ress in 1 847. It was considerably battered during the Amer. ] 
 invasion, and prior to 1908 it was in a ruinous state; the Mex. 
 government recently converted it into a military prison. It 
 stands about \ M. from station, in the centre of a broad plain 
 backed by the towering Cofre de Perote (p. 504), and sentinelled i 
 by the ever-beautiful Pico de Orizaba (p. 496). The old (and j 
 uninteresting) town of Perote clusters around three churches 
 about 1 M. to the r. of the station. — The train runs across a | 
 level plain and approaches the edge of the great plateau. I 
 From 281 K.La Cima (the summit), 9,280 ft. and the highest I 
 point on the line, amid a straggling forest of tall pines, we 
 begin to go downward to the Gulf coast, and we descend 4800 i 
 ft. in the next 72 Kilom. The old ch. \ M. below the station 
 of (286 K.) Las Vigas , is a relic of early Colonial days. 
 
 The landscape now visible on the 1. is one of the most attractive in the i 
 liopub The huge Cofre de Perote hems in the view on the S.. but on the | 
 N. and K. the eye travels over thousands of sq. miles of beautiful hill 
 and valley land; the latter green with the rich and exuberant plant-life 
 of the >emi-tropics. Far to the E. is descried the productive tierra 
 cal\» r tr, laved by the warm waters of the Gulf and bathed in sempiternal | 
 
 inshine Picturesque villages (visible for many miles in the clear air) 
 dot the elevated hillsides, and from the latter leap splendid waterfalls 
 that rush impetuously to lower levels. Groves of green banana plants I 
 enliv.-n the landscape, which is clothed in beautiful flowers. Deliciously i 
 j-wret oranges at one cent each, and huge bunches of violets, azaleas, and 
 rosi-s :l t the same price, are a few of the products offered for sale at the 
 wav'ide stations The train compasses the descent by giant loops; at . 
 t im* winding round and round the towns ( San Salvador ) before reaching ! 
 th< ir level Jalapa (see next page) is visible 25 or more kilometros away, 
 and in turn, the station agent at Jalapa can see the train 1 hr. before 
 it reaches the station. 
 
 317 K. San Miguel , embowered in flowering fruit and flam- 
 boyant trees: the country for miles around is flecked with the 
 latter, and at certain seasons the beautiful scarlet, scimitar- 
 like flowers impart to the region the aspect of a floral paradise. 
 Here the spiny cactus has made way for the orchid and the 
 wild rose, the pines are replaced by palms and palmettos, and 
 in the sun-warmed pockets of the hills with a southern exposure 
 crow exquisite tree-ferns; tall and extraordinarily graceful. 
 The thin, chilly, whining air of the plateau has vanished, and 
 here the breath of summer is over all. We cross a deep, vege- 
 tation-choked chasm and enter a short tunnel. The views as 
 
Arrival . 
 
 JALAPA 
 
 56. Route . 503 
 
 we emerge are superb. The land is broken into wild and deep 
 ravines filled with riotous tropical vegetation. 324 K. Dehesa . 
 342 K. Jalapa, see below. For a continuation of the journey 
 see p. 507. 
 
 56. Jalapa . 
 
 Arrival. The rly. station is at the W. edge of the town, at the foot 
 of a sharp slope which leads upward to the plaza. Tram-cars ( Ferrocarril 
 Urbano de Jalapa) run from the station to the main plaza , and pass the 
 chief hotels; fare 10 c. (double at night); large hand-bag or a suit-case, 
 10 c. Luggage by cargador (comp. p. lii) 25 c. for a hand-bag ; 50 c. for 
 a medium-size trunk, and $1 for a large one. Where the traveller has 
 several trunks he can economize by asking the hotel manager to have 
 the luggage brought up on a platform car — plataforma. The centre 
 of the town, and the chief hotels, lie within 10 min. wajk of the station. 
 There are no hotel omnibuses. Hotel runners usually meet incoming 
 trains. There is a refreshment room at the station; meals $1. Jalapa 
 time is ten min. faster than rly. time. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). Gran Hotel Juarez , in a commanding posi- 
 tion (fine views) facing the Parque Juarez ; rooms only, from 75 c. to $2; 
 with 3 meals, $2 to S3. 50. A reduction can be had for a stay of several 
 days. The best rooms (splendid views of valley and mts.) are in the 
 S.-W. corner of the hotel. — Gran Hotel, Calle Lerdo, 3 (3 blocks E. of the 
 Cathedral); rooms only, SI to $4; meals in the restaurant, SI. Fr., Eng., 
 and Sp. spoken. The second-story rooms with balconies overlooking the 
 street are preferable. — Hotel Mexico, Primera Calle de Lucio, 1 (facing the 
 Parque Lerdo and the Palacio de Gobierno), S2 to S3 Am. PI. 
 
 Jalapa, called politically Jalapa Enriquez , in honor of a 
 popular military hero; capital of the State of Vera Cruz , with 
 a population of 20,000, derives its name from an Indian voc- 
 able, xalli — sand, and apan — river. The word is often spelled 
 Xalapa as X and J are convertible consonants in Spanish. 
 (The name is best known to Europeans as Jalap — Con- 
 volvulus, Ipomoea Jalapa — a powerful cathartic, the product 
 of a vine of the morning-glory species, with little or no taste 
 or smell. Since the discovery of other medicines the exporta- 
 tion of Jalap has greatly decreased.) JaJapa was a thriving In- 
 dian village when Cortes and his band of redoubtable freeboot- 
 ers marched through it on their memorable journey from 
 Cempoalla to the Aztec capital, after the destruction of the 
 Spanish vessels in the Bay of Vera Cruz. 
 
 “The traveller from the coast hails its groves with delight, as announ- 
 cing that he is above the deadly influence of the vomito. From this de- 
 licious spot the Spaniards enjoyed one of the grandest prospects in 
 nature. Before them was the steep ascent — much steeper after this 
 point ; — which they were to climb. On the r. rose the Sierra Madre , 
 girt with its dark belt of pines, and its long lines of shadowy hills stretch- 
 ing away in the distance. To the S., in brilliant contrast, stood the mighty 
 Orizaba , with his white robes of snow descending far down his sides, 
 towering in solitary grandeur, the giant spectre of the Andes. Behind 
 them, they beheld, unrolled at their feet, the magnificent tierra caliente 
 with its gay confusion of meadows, streams and flowering forests, 
 sprinkled over with shining Indian villages, while a faint line of light on 
 the edge of the horizon told them that there was the ocean, beyond 
 which were the kindred and country they were many of them never more 
 to see.” (Prescott.) 
 
 Giant mountains are dominant features in the landscape. The por- 
 
504 Route 56. COFRE DE PEROTE History . 
 
 phyritic Cofre de Perote (13,552 ft.), so called because the topmost 
 I v. ait resembles a chest, hems in the valley immediately to the W. of the 
 t. ,u :tini it is one of the most impressive mts. of the Sierra Madre range. 
 1 h. Indian name for it is Nauchampatepeil, or square mt., and it is be- 
 lieve reefs { Boquillas de piedra ) in the Gulf of Mexico were 
 
 formed by its lava flow in past ages. Orizaba (18,225 ft.), called by the 
 Indians < ttlaUeped, is seen to the S. of Perote, and is described at p. 496. 
 In t : . e intervening valleys is a bewildering mass of plants which flame 
 and : 1 om perennially; with coffee, zarzaparrilla (Smilax inedica), vanilla 
 \ plan i folia), and a host of aromatic shrubs as salient features. 
 
 The view of tucse mts. and valleys was. a favorite one with the late 
 Frcdt nel: Church, vs hose grand painting, The Heartof the Andes, is known 
 to most lovers of pictured mountain scenery. 
 
 Join na is often spoken of as “the flower-garden of Mexico” and it is 
 a popular resort. Natives often call it Jalapa de la Feria (of the fair) be- 
 c a ' : - 1 • nf a great annual fair which was formerly held here to dispose of 
 t ho merchandise brought by the Spanish “ Silver Fleet ” on its return from 
 C.t.iu. The town is celebrated for its lovely Sefioritas; and the proverb, 
 L ' Jcl ipenas son halagiiehas (the Jalapa girls are bewitching), is cur- 
 nut in the vernacular. In the early days it was a diligencia station on 
 the highway between Fern Cruz and Mexico City, and then the environ- 
 ing hills sheltered many salleadores (highwaymen) who lived by rob- 
 bing t he weekly mail-coach. Many of the houses are time-stained relics of 
 Yi< * -regal days — a blend of Spanish-Moorish architecture, with massive 
 walls and prison-like windows flush with the pavement and protected 
 by heavy iron bars. The overhanging balconies are usually laden with 
 bi " uning flowers. The time-stained tiles, with which most of the quaint 
 dwellings are roofed, impart an air of great antiquity to the place. Cer- 
 tain of the sun-bathed cloisters are a sustained delight to the artistic 
 e> In the early morning the narrow, cobble-paved streets are thronged 
 with donkeys bearing panniers of fruits and flowers to the local mar- 
 kns. ( offee is one of the great staples of the region, and Jalapa is the 
 mart to which much of it is brought. 
 
 Soon after the fall of Tenochtitldn Spaniards settled in Jcdapa in ap- 
 prci iable numbers, as the place was a sort of halfway point between the 
 ( < .ot and the capital, with a more agreeable climate than either of these 
 place*; It stands about midway up the long ascent from the coast to 
 the edge of the plateau, and the vapors from the ocean, touching the 
 in’ . in their westerly progress, maintain a rich verdure throughout the 
 >« ar. The warmest month of the year is May, the coldest March. August 
 * ~ th> moM uniform. A disagreeable feature of the climate is a frequently 
 rerurring drizzle ( Uovizna ) called chipi-chipi, which sometimes lasts for 
 a wi ■ r When the moisture-laden clouds from the Gulf impinge on the 
 mt t above Jalapa, they condense under the influence of the cool air 
 .. i 1 pr*M-ipitate upon the town. “For days at a stretch the sun is ob- 
 seured. and the Jalapeilo, muffled in his sarape, smokes his cigarrillo 
 and mutters .1 re Maria Purisima, que saiga el sol — Holy Mary, let the 
 sun come out! ” 
 
 In 1 791 the settlement received the title of villa (town), and this was 
 • 1 1 1 • • r . i in 1S30) to ciudad (city). It has changed but little since the 
 ( in it ( aptain and his myrmidons first saw it. Perched on the slope of 
 the > Macu lit pi macuilli — five, and tepetl — mountain) its steep, 
 er ’k. d and tortuous streets recall certain twisty thoroughfares of 
 N It i- quite a.s quaint as some of the Italian cities, and the views 
 
 fr : ■ - Hue of the vantage points in the town are among the most beau- 
 tiful and beguiling in Mexico. Across miles of foot-hills, ravines and 
 emerald valleys one looks out, as from an eagle’s nest, upon a charm- 
 ing landscape which embraces the torrid, the temperate and the frigid 
 zonn- The contrast between the snow-clad peaks and the town, em- 
 bowered in honeysuckle, gardenias, azaleas, bougainvillaea, camelias, 
 in- rid a wealth of tropical and sub-tropical flowers, is striking. Several 
 i. flowing rivulets course through the lower reaches of the town, 
 mo from this district the view of the town itself, resting somnolently 
 
 1,1 f the green hills and decked out here and there with glistening 
 church towers — which stand out sharply against the faultless blue sky 
 
Cathedral. 
 
 JALAPA 
 
 56. Route. 505 
 
 — is very attractive. Even the modest hut of the lower class Jalapeno is 
 adorned with bngnt flowers, and the smiling and happy faces of the peo- 
 ple are in strong contrast to the sodden and sullen countenances of some 
 of the proletariate of Mexico’s capital. 
 
 The Cathedral, which flanks the Parque Lerdo on the W. 
 and faces the Palacio de Gohierno (completed in 1907 at a cost 
 of $300,000), was formerly the ch. of Nuestra Sefiora de la 
 Concepcion , and it occupies the site of a primitive ch. erected 
 in the 16th. cent. The present structure dates from 1773; it 
 was renovated a half century later and was consecrated as a 
 Cathedral in 1864. The new Gothic fagade is strangely out of 
 place on the otherwise imposingly massive structure. A caus- 
 tic writer has referred to this ch. as a “jaunty horror half-clad 
 in cheap Gothic clothes which don’t fit.” It is built upon a 
 sharp slope, and is reached by a short flight of 18 narrow steps. 
 The interior is more like a toboggan slide than an ordinary 
 ch. floor; the smooth tiles making the stretch from the door 
 to the altar even more slippery than would ordinarily be the 
 case. It would be relatively easy for one to backslide in this 
 ch. The stained glass windows are of Mex. make. The two 
 quaint old wheels of bells that assist in the functions, are in- 
 teresting relics of early times. The Gothic motif of the fagade 
 extends to the interior, and is carried out in the choir stalls 
 (of carved wood), the pointed windows, the confessionals and 
 the railing of the presbiterio. The pictures are not worth look- 
 ing at. 
 
 There are a number of old churches (the first was erected in 
 1550, but it was demolished recently to make room for the 
 handsome Parque Juarez ) , but none of them are of special 
 interest to the traveller. The old Beaterio, on the 2nd Calle 
 de Zaragoza (at the rear of the Palacio de Gobierno), was 
 erected in 1750 for conventual purposes. It has several times 
 been renovated, and the present stained glass windows and 
 decorations date from 1909. The statue in the Parque Lerdo 
 stands to the memory of the one-time president Sebastian 
 Lerdo de Tejada. A favorite promenade is the Parque Hidalgo , 
 called also Los Berros, at the E. edge of the town. Follow the 
 Calle Principal to the suburbs, then turn to the r. and proceed 
 two squares. The park is a half-wild spot, vocal with song 
 birds and aflame with flowers. The music kiosk (commemora- 
 tive tablet) was erected in 1895, during the second guberna- 
 torial term of Sehor Don Teodoro Dehesa. 
 
 Jalapa contains a number of small factories of various kinds. 
 Cigars are made here in quantities. A number of these factories 
 cluster about the Plaza de San Jose, in the N.-E. quarter of the 
 town. The cigars offered for sale on the streets are apt to be 
 not of the highest quality, and are sometimes found to contain 
 tripa rejected bv the best factories. The venders usually sell 
 them in plain cedar boxes, unstamped, to impart the impression 
 
Route 
 
 COATEPEC— XICO 
 
 506 
 
 • it they have been stolen from the factories. — When the 
 izu 1< is nonplussed to find something to interest the visi- 
 i r he will point out the house in which the Mexican President 
 Lev do de Tejada was bom; the one occupied by 
 M ; .7 Bazaine when with his French troops he retreated 
 fr* in the capital and left Maximilian to his fate; and the spot 
 where the American soldiers under Scott and Worth played 
 baseball in 1S47) with the wooden leg 1 captured (by the 
 Fourth Illinois regiment ) from General Santa Anna . 
 
 Th< ' rimmage in which the bombastic and irascible Santa Anna lost 
 hi real leg smacks of the burlesque. The ten years’ war for Independence 
 keyed the M exican? to such a fighting pitch that civil wars seemed al- 
 st necessary To drain their martial enthusiasm. In one of these family 
 : ~ jrreements sacking of the Parian at Mexico City in 1828) certain 
 Fren h subjects got between the firing-lines, and France preferred a 
 claim of Sty*), 000 against the Bustamante government. One item in this 
 cl. a: . mi i, was demanded by a French pastry-cook ( pastelero ) for 
 p\>< alleged to have been stolen and eaten by the revolucionarios. This 
 ' ecame knot i sively as the re.clama.cion de los pc.sfeles — the 
 pa -cl urn. The French ultimatum of March 21, 1838, was followed (in 
 
 • 1 • ■ y a French squadron under Ba.zoche. which captured the fortress 
 
 • <an Juan d>: Ulua Nov. 25) and occupied Vera Cruz Dec. 5. A land- 
 ing party under the Prince de JoinvUle attacked the city early one 
 
 • . r* .ng while Santa Anna slept, and as the sailors were entering their 
 b • - a! Ter a repulse, the drowsy general rushed them, and in thesquabble 
 \\ shot in the leg — which was amputated in a crude way, and later 
 remove 1 from its resting place at Manna de Clavo and deposited (under 
 a fine in nument inidst imposing ceremonies at Mexico City. To pre- 
 
 .-• * r ho-uilities a treaty was concluded (March 1839) and Mexieo 
 pai l the $000,000 in full. 
 
 Excursions: El Digue, about 10 min. walk southward from the Jardin 
 J . : not worth a visit, unless time hangs heavily. There is an 
 
 unk< nipt mill, and a lake which sometimes contains water-lilies. Follow 
 tin ' which descends past the W. side of the Hotel Juarez, enter 
 the < 'allc dei Digue . pass the lavanderia, turn to the 1. and proceed about 
 . M ngther k-paved road. An interesting excursion for those who 
 1 • ■ .:.t\ walks is bv the highway to (9 kilom.) Coatepec. Turn to 
 
 v ■ 1 at the Pargue Juarez, enter the Calle del Digue , cross the stone 
 1 r; a u enter the wide, tree-shaded and stone-flagged old Spanish 
 *t r\ highway — a section of the great camino real which once linked 
 with T h< coast. The road Trends toward the S.-E. and soon enters 
 
 • thick jungle. In the early morning many Indian men and women 
 r et r iming from Coatepec. In places the tall trees make a tunnel 
 
 h the road passes. The jungle is filled with beauti- 
 f’ in,..: - v -h-h are hundreds of exquisite orchids. The walking 
 
 • good ex -opt in places where the cobbles have been removed — 
 •■in i from the hill-tops splendid views are to be had. The typical Indian 
 
 tive. The traveller can return to 
 J •• ' :;>n bv <>ne of the several daily trains on the Ferrocarril de Jalapa 
 '•Mir*. reed by train ) to < 1 2 kilom.) XiCO, and view the splendid 
 v i to • X zo whence Jalapa and Coatepec receive elec- 
 ts itv f* ' lighting. Thirtv cubic feet of water reach the edge of the 
 ri tge each second and fall 256 ft. into the rock-strewn basin below. The 
 environing rountry is wild and picturesque. 
 
 Fifty mi. N. of Jalapa and 6 M. from the village of Papantla is the 
 
 1 Th> leg is now in Memorial Hall at Springfield, 111. (FT. S. A.). The 
 I'm : rch ■ d an 1 worn later bv the discomfited general is in the Mo- 
 
 Museum. His real leg was torn from its tomb at Mexico 
 < :n Ivdi an 1 dragged with a cord through the street, midst in- 
 sults. albeit it was later secured and buried. 
 
PYRAMID OF PAPANTLA 56. Rte. 507 
 
 ancient Pyramid of Papantla (called by the Totonac natives of the re- 
 gion, El Tajin 1 = the thunderbolt), accidentally discovered by some 
 hunters in 1785. Standing in a dense wood far from the highway it re- 
 mained unknown to the Spaniards. Built of immense porphyritic blocks 
 covered with hieroglyphics and bound together with mortar, it is sup- 
 posed to be of great antiquity. Human figures predominate among the 
 carvings, which usually represent crocodiles, serpents and smaller rep- 
 tilia. The structure is remarkable for its symmetry, the polish of the 
 stone surfaces, and the regularity of their cut The base of the pyramid 
 is an exact square, each side 82 ft. long with a height of about 60 ft. 
 Like all Mexican teocalli this mound is composed of several stages or 
 terraces, reached by a grand stairway of 57 steps leading to a truncated 
 summit where human sacrifices were made. The visitor cannot fail to 
 note a number of square niches (366 in all) which have given rise to the 
 conjecture that they, in some occult way, were connected with the Toltec 
 calendar. It is thought that the twelve additional niches in the stair 
 toward the E. may have represented the “useless” or intercalated days 
 at the end of their cycle. In one of his books on New Spain Baron Von 
 Humboldt refers to the analogy of the brick monuments of Andhuac 
 to the temple of Belus at Babylon, and to the pyramids near Sakhara, 
 Egypt He says: “There are in Mexico pyramids of several stages, in 
 the forests of Papantla, at a small elevation above the level of the sea, 
 and on the plains of Cholula and Teotihuacan, at elevations surpassing 
 those of our passes in the Alps. We are astonished to see in regions most 
 remote from one another, and under climates of the greatest diversity, 
 man following the same model in his edifices, in his ornaments, in his 
 habits, and even in the form of his political institutions.” Ruins of the 
 structures of the Totonacs, who anciently dwelt in the coast region of 
 V era Cruz, lie thick throughout the vast forests between Jalapa and 
 the coast. As these minor ruins are devoid of the greater interest which 
 cluster about those of Mitla, Teotihuacan and Yucatan, they are rarely 
 visited. Their difficulty of access renders them little known. Travellers 
 can arrange with the hotel manager for horses and guides for Papantla. 
 
 Jalapa , see p. 503. The grade slopes sharply, and the vege- 
 tation which flanks the rly. shows the effects of the heavy rain- 
 fall which is a feature of the region. The almost perpetual 
 moisture in the air, and the warm sunshine, produce a vigorous 
 plant life, and this clothes the hillsides with perennial green. 
 We traverse plantations of coffee ( cafetales ), tobacco, and ba- 
 nanas. A myriad brilliant flowers add huge blotches of color to 
 the landscape. Beautiful tree ferns abound; lithe lianas bind 
 the jungle trees together, and the almost countless orchids 
 seem here to reach a high perfection. The line zig-zags down- 
 ward, crossing and re-crossing the old military highway con- 
 structed and used by the Spaniards upward of three centuries 
 ago. 351 K. Pacho. 358 K. Munoz , amid groves of coffee, 
 bananas, and pineapples. 366 K. Chavarillo, a nondescript 
 station, on a rolling upland, hemmed in by high hills. Splendid 
 view of the snow capped cone of Orizaba (on the r.). 381 K. 
 El Palmar. We enter a region of palms and palmettos. Range 
 after range of ravine-scarred hills pass in review. The deep 
 valleys, crossed by high bridges, are fairly choked with luxu- 
 riant tropical vegetation. The rly. line follows narrow terraces 
 cut in the Mt. sides. 391 K. Colorado , a shipping point for corn. 
 
 1 There is a handsome carved wood reproduction of this pyramid in 
 the National Museum at Mex. City. See p. 298. 
 
508 Route 57. 
 
 PUEBLA 
 
 Arrival. 
 
 'P o r irion roundabout produces quantities of huge papayas 
 
 i . 54 8 which are offered at the stations at 10-20 c. each. 397 
 K. c irrizal. 407 K. Rinconada. 416 K. Tamarindo. 419 K. 
 i ; ' <Lctle. 429 K. San Francisco. We leave the coffee zone 
 
 romp. p. 4S9), enter the tropics, and cross a tropical river 
 spanned by a high bridge. 433 K. Salmoral. The region from 
 hen to the coast is beautiful and intensely productive. Fine 
 oranges, cocoanuts, fat little yellow bananas of marvellous 
 >\vc*«*tness, papayas, and a host of other tropical fruits, grow by 
 tin* wayside. Prominent among the trees are many fine Coyol 
 palms ; the tall ones, with clusters of small nuts the size of dates 
 are known as Coyol Real , and they supply the palm oil of 
 commerce. Hereabout the tall trees all bend toward the S.-W., 
 because of the strong northern gales ( nortes , p. 471) which 
 blowdown the gulf at certain seasons. Palma Christi , melon - 
 2 (ijote y cocoanut palms, and a host of tropical trees are visible 
 from the cars, as are also broad fields of sugar-cane. We pass 
 the small stations of 439 K. Antigua (but 22 ft. above sea 
 level), 44S K. Vargas , 454 K. Santa Fe, and 461 K. Buena 
 \'ista. The sea is visible on the 1. 474 K. Vera Cruz, see p. 469. 
 
 57. Puebla. 
 
 Arrival. The Stations ( eetaeiones ) of the FerrocaiTil Interoceaiiico (PI. 
 B. •; • ■ • F. C. Mexicano, and the F. C. Mexicano del Sur CPI. B, 2) cluster 
 
 at tl e N end of the city, within 5 min. walk of each other. 
 
 Autos and cabs tches de sitio ). The former §2.50 an hr., §1.50 T 'or 4 
 hour < r 1* Cabs about 25 per centcheaper. Stands at various parts of the 
 city. 
 
 Tram cars pass near the stations and traverse the city in various directions. 
 
 Hotels ornp. p. xlvii). Hotel del Jardin, near the cathedral and Zocalo. 
 
 I fagU re, _' a Calle de Mercaderes 4-6. — Gran Hotel America, 
 A • \ y intamiento 207. Rates from §2 a day and up for room. American 
 
 plan, from S3.50 a day and up. Meals a la carta. — Certain of the hotels run 
 fr*-e omnibuses tmiones) between the rly. stations and the hotels. Other 
 hotel- an* tin Coldn , El Pasaje.e tc. None of the hotels come up to the Mexico 
 t i tandard. but the traveller will find them comfortable enough for a 
 brief sojourn. 
 
 Banks. Banco Xacional de Mexico. — The Compania Comercial y 
 Bar : r i <ir pucbla are correspondents of the Mexico City Banking Corpo- 
 ration, 8. A. 
 
 Museums, .\fuseo del Estado , in the Colegio del Estado (Pl.E, 3). The 
 erj * xt< nsive, and the traveller can devote the time 
 t . : advantage in the Museo Nacional at Mexico City (p. 298). 
 
 Shops. The best of these (bargaining usually necessary) will be found 
 in r n r th*- portale s PI. D, 3), of the Plaza Principal. Here the traveller 
 i: a*. m- ittraetive specimens of the beautiful onyx work (p.xcvi) for 
 v. hi h /’ /< i famous. Antiques can perhaps be bought to better ad- 
 • in M< xico City. There are some attractive shops in the Arcade 
 E. from the portalcs. 
 
 Post and Telegraph Offices. Branches in various parts of the city. 
 
 O . ( Correo 1 r Casa Mairiz de Correos ) is in tne 
 
 Callr do Victoria. 2 squares N. of the plaza. 
 
 Churches Puebla i.= essentially a city of churches, and the ecclesiologist 
 ' find n uch to interest him in some of the really fine old Churches estab- 
 li ‘ ed h* n ini times. The Cathedral, described at p. 512 
 
 ft ,. is one of the largest and most elaborate in the Republic, and is well 
 -a ort! a detailed inspection. The tiled domes of the various churches attract 
 by their charm. 
 
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Excursions . 
 
 CITY OF PUEBLA 57. Route . 509 
 
 Excursions. Chief among the pleasant excursions from the 
 city is that to the ancient and highly interesting Pyramid of 
 Cholula, described at p. 518. Few travellers will care to miss 
 this. The history of the pyramid is buried in the remote past, 
 for the Aztecs found it in place when they emerged on the 
 Mexican plateau in 1176 of our era, and it then bore the marks 
 of extreme antiquity. That it has a direct relation with the 
 gigantic Pyramid of San Juan Teotihuacan (p. 425) near 
 Mexico City, is evident. That it was erected by a pyramid- 
 building people who came to Mexico (perchance from Egypt) 
 at some remote period in the dim past is more than probable. 
 
 Puebla (town, place, people — pronounced poo-eh-blah), 
 a fair city (pop. 100,000 — known politically as Puebla de 
 Zaragoza) 7,100 ft. above the sea, on the Great Central 
 Plateau, at the S.-E. edge of the Valley of Mexico, 130 M. 
 from the Mexican capital, in lat. 19° 02' 30" and long. 0° 
 56' 06"; capital of the State of Puebla, and the seat of an 
 archbishop, deserves a visit not only for its historical associa- 
 tions, but also for its many attractive churches ( iglesias ), of 
 which there are upward of sixty. 
 
 The architecture of Puebla (which sometimes is referred to 
 as the Rome of Mexico) is distinguished by a decided Andalu- 
 sian influence, with a liberal use of Moorish or Persian tiles 
 ( azulejos ). Polychrome tiles 1 are employed to artistic ad- 
 vantage in the church towers and domes, in the private resi- 
 dences, fountains, and in many minor ways. 
 
 Puebla was long a trade centre between Mexico and Spain, 
 and from a military standpoint it is regarded as the key to the 
 national capital. It has not always escaped being regarded as 
 reactionary, and it was among the last of the important 
 Mexican cities to fall into progressive ways. 
 
 Political malcontents are not unknown in the city, and 
 revolutionary unrest is sometimes manifest. It is thought that 
 the plot which eventually caused the downfall of General 
 Porfirio Diaz was hatched here. Certain it is that a street 
 ( Calle de los Martires de Noviembre 1910 — Street of the 
 martyrs of Nov. 1910) has been named in honor of certain 
 individuals who lost their lives in a clash with the authorities 
 at that time. 
 
 The city is very Catholic, and there are among the popula- 
 tion persons who kneel in the street at the sound of the Arch- 
 bishop’s carriage- wheels, and who hasten to kiss the ecclesiasti- 
 cal hand. The situation of Puebla — on the gradual slope of the 
 Sierra Madre foot-hills, whence magnificent views are obtained 
 — is striking. Three eternally snow-crowned volcanoes, and 
 
 1 Puebla was the first city in Mexico to manufacture the renowned 
 Talavera ware (p. lxxiii), and the colored glazed tiles for which it is now 
 celebrated, and which are sent throughout the Republic, to decorate 
 churches and secular buildings. 
 
PUEBLA 
 
 H istory. 
 
 ;,10 Route 57. 
 
 many le-ser peaks, overlook the city, which is one of the cleanest 
 an, I perhaps one of the healthiest in the Repub. The straight 
 and fairly broad streets run at right angles to each other, and 
 ]<■ »r to 1909 they were spanned at intervals by quaint little 
 arched stone causeways, that were necessary in the rainy 
 season. 
 
 History. Soon after the downfall of Tenochtitlan the Spaniards 
 .!.•( i,ied to found a city about midway between the Aztec capital and the 
 , -i one that would be healthier than the island city of the Indians, 
 m en r to their base of supplies, and which would afford greater security 
 t<>t heir countrymen engaged in agriculture between the plateau and the 
 o( < n. A Franciscan friar, Toribio de Benavente, called Father Motolmia 
 comp. p. 441 . was delegated to select a suitable spot, and he chose the 
 plain lying between the stately Popocatepetl and the distant peak of 
 M i/ - _-o.. or Mctlacueyatl. The plateau was already dotted with the 
 t-ovns of Cholula. Tlaxcala, Tepeaca, and Huejotzingo , but none of these 
 unit* i the conditions desired by the conquistador es. According to the 
 church chronicles Padre Motolmia was greatly aided in his task by a 
 bream which came to Fray Julian Garces , who saw two angels with line 
 a:. : r -1 pacing a beautiful plain flanked by tall volcanoes. The site was 
 immediately chosen and was named Puebla de los Angeles. In his His- 
 t . . '!> I >.< Indios de Xuera Espafia , Fray Toribio says: “The City of the 
 Ang U. in the fertile Atoyac Valley , Province of Tlaeccala , New Spain, was 
 f ; at the urgent request of the Franciscan Friars, and by order of 
 
 th A tdu ncia Real , whose President was Bishop Fuenleal. It was estab- 
 lished on the 16th of April — the day of Santo Toribio — in the year 
 1 1 ight thousand Tlaxcalan allies and many other Indians came 
 : r a 7 • ; • aea and H uejotzingo, and erected the first huts for the workmen. 
 Th* '< allies came singing and dancing and playing upon their musical 
 r.'- ruments. The day was one of great rejoicing, and mass was celebrated 
 ; n the place marked out for the city. On this day also came forty 
 >1 mish families to settle in the new city.” The Indians have a different 
 tr idition: one to the effect that a small native town was demolished to 
 make way for the Spanish city, which was founded on a spot called 
 C uetlaxcoapan — "where hides are washed.” The first mass was said 
 mi t he Mtc of the present ch. of San Ramon; the first house was erected 
 in i he Miburb of San Sebastian. The suburb of Santa Ana was given over 
 to the Tlaxcalans; that of San Pablo el Antiguo to the Aztec allies, and 
 /‘■r h> . i X n > o and Santiago, to the Cholulans. Though it failed to 
 .; ! i nt T> riochtitldn . Puebla rose in time to be the second city of the 
 
 * • i nt r y. The transference of the Episcopal See from Tlaxcala gave a 
 
 gn \ impetus to church and convent building. The Dominicans followed 
 < . •-< on the heels of the Franciscans, and were in turn followed by 
 th. Augu-tinians, the Jesuits, and the Carmelites. “It seems,” says 
 l’ • ft. to have inherited the religious pre-eminence of the ancient 
 ( ' bring distinguished, like her, for the number and splendor of its 
 
 churches, th** multitude of its clergy, and the magnificence of its cere- 
 m i- - md festivals.” (Some of the first great conventual estates still 
 « \ : : : i r hem have been so altered, to meet commercial requirements, as 
 to l»e almost unrecognizable.) 
 
 /’ i capitulated to Agustin Iturbide in 1821; was taken by the 
 
 • r ‘ n Gr rural Scott in 1847, and was besieged and taken by the 
 1 m h soldiers of Napoleon in 1S62. The repulse of the French, on 
 862, by th valiant Mexican General Ignacio Zaragoza, was a 
 i" ' niilit . * r > achievement ; the city was thereafter called Puebla de 
 / >n i the day became a national holiday. The French again 
 
 1 ' v-d tli** city and captured it (May 17, 1S63) after a two months’ 
 
 " -m- ( *ii April 2, 1867, it was the scene of a furious battle between 
 
 s. The 
 
 • tmm* nt was one of the most brilliant and successful conducted by 
 
 1 ’ ■ d P oz, and the anniversary was also declared a national holiday. 
 
 A ’ ‘ time Puebla was in the power of the Imperial forces and their 
 ai *»cs under General Manuel Noriega, a sturdy and courageous fighter, 
 
Plaza. 
 
 PUEBLA 
 
 57. Route. 511 
 
 who, for 27 days, had defended it against the repeated assaults of the 
 Mexicans. Noriega was in high spirits because of a private communica- 
 tion informing him that Maximilian had despatched General Leonardo 
 Marquez to Puebla with reinforcements, and that General Diaz and his 
 handful of patriots were on the eve of being trapped between the two 
 forces. This wily general had, however, intercepted the message, and, 
 mindful of his perilous predicament, had decided to take the city by 
 storm, whatever might be the loss. Feigning a retreat, he divided his 
 forces and shortly before daylight of April 2d he attacked the stronghold 
 at various points, fighting against tremendous odds. Led in person by 
 General Diaz , the heroic Mexicans captured one in'trenchment after 
 another, and daylight saw them in possession of the place. 
 
 The Plaza de la Constitucion (P1.D,3), flanking the Ca- 
 thedral and the portales, contains some unusually tall trees, 
 a number of fountains, a music kiosk (military music on cer- 
 tain evenings), and some parterres of semi-tropical flowers. It 
 was formerly a mere stone-flagged square, sun-burned and 
 uninviting. It is of particular interest to Americans because 
 of a severe conflict (in Oct., 1847) between 2,500 men of the 
 Mexican General Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna's army, and 
 500 gaunt and weather-beaten Americans under Colonel 
 Childs — a portion of General Worth's command left to guard 
 1,800 sick and disabled soldiers of the main army then on its 
 way from Vera Cruz to the Mexican capital. 
 
 The fierce battle of Cerro Gordo had just been fought, and though the 
 Americans had emerged triumphant, they had been seriously disabled by 
 the Mexicans. When the main army continued its march Colonel Childs 
 found himself encompassed in a hostile city of 80,000 inhabitants who 
 took no pains to conceal their dislike for him and his wounded country- 
 men. Anticipating trouble he secured 30 cattle and 400 sheep, along with 
 army stores, and barricaded himself in the plaza, with stones and bales 
 of cotton. The main army was no sooner out of sight than Santa Anna, 
 who had held together about 2,500 men, determined to attempt to 
 retrieve his fortunes, and by an attack on the harassed Americans, revive 
 the drooping spirits of his men. He sent Childs a summons to surrender, 
 which was refused. The Mexicans then opened a fierce artillery fire on 
 the encampment in the plaza. A persistent and galling musketry fire was 
 directed against the sick and besieged troops from the house-tops, while 
 from the narrow, converging streets the foot soldiers attacked with the 
 bayonet. The church bells sang joyously, and the unequal battle was 
 watched eagerly by the entire population The heart-rending struggle 
 was maintained for 30 days, under an almost continuous fire, many of 
 the sick soldiers standing guard and taking part. The approach of 
 General Lane with reinforcements from Vera Cruz forced Santa Anna 
 to retire. 
 
 The Paseo Nuevo, in the N. part of the city (PI. B, 4), is noteworthy 
 for a handsome bronze group of statuary erected (by the state of Puebla 
 in 1898) to the memory of the Heroes of the War for Independence- 
 Beside a figure of Liberty is one of Miguel Hidalgo, Jose Maria Morelos 
 and other patriots; prominent among them the sturdy peon miner of 
 Guanajuato, who with a paving stone as a shield against Spanish bullets 
 blew up the door to the Alhondiga (p. 139) and turned the tide in favor 
 of the insurgents. Hard by is a statue of the philosopher Gabino Barreda, 
 and one to Esteban de Antuhano, fundador de la industria fabril en el pais. 
 Directly behind this statue is an evil-smelling sulphur spring whose 
 vaporous waters rush hot from the heart of the distant volcano and waste 
 their efficacy in the local sewer. At the S. end of the paseo is a striking 
 monument erected (by the state in 1896) to Nicolas Bravo. The most 
 interesting object in this part of the city is the Church of Nuestra 
 Sehora do Guadalupe (PI. B, 3), which faces the paseo at the E. The 
 
512 Route 57. 
 
 PUEBLA 
 
 Cathedral. 
 
 interior is uninteresting — the four huge paintings which represent 
 scenes in the Apparition of the Virgin to Juan Diego being mediocre 
 roj. u*> of those in the ch. of Nuestra Sefiora de Guadalupe , described at 
 p. '*7 ‘This church offers in its facade another remarkable example of 
 : hi- iccorative use of glazed tiles that is peculiar to Puebla. In the bases 
 oft ho towers the tiles are red and green, the pictures have blue and white 
 borders with polychrome figures: the sun and the moon with orange 
 tx :ies and yellow rays are upon a blue ground. In the surface of the 
 f ioade, the zig-zag bands are of orange, blue and green, alternating with 
 wmte. The arched border is of blue and white. The angels in the span- 
 « ire Is have yellow garments and orange wings.” The four, square colored 
 tile pictures refer to the Apparition of the Virgin of Guadalupe, and the 
 iriM-riptions beneath the four make the famous phrase Non fecit taliter 
 ornta untie, ne comp. p. 398*. The time-stained dome is odd, with work- 
 manship similar to that of the towers. This is the ch. one sees when 
 looking \Y. from the platform of the Interoceanic Rly. Station. 
 
 The Cathedral (PL D,4), undoubtedly one of the largest, 
 handsomest , and richest Catholic temples in America, a relic 
 of early Spanish colonial days and a treasury of historical 
 associations, is open all day (except from noon to 2.30) free to 
 visitors. As a rule permission has to be obtained from the 
 sacristan to enter the choir and the Sola Capitular , and as this 
 functionary is apt to be busy in the early afternoon (at which 
 time even the “ travelling peso ” may fail to work) the tourist 
 should plan to visit the edifice in the morning. “ The Cathedral 
 of Puebla [says Mr. Baxter] ranks next to that of Mexico City 
 in architectural importance. Both without and within it has 
 an effect of greater unity than that of the capital, but exteri- 
 orly it lacks the elegant richness of the greater building, and 
 internally it is less impressive though by no means wanting 
 in grandeur. The facade has the charm of a beautiful simplic- 
 ity, enriched by much sculpture and fine decorative carv ing 
 in white marble. Surpassing the facade in design is the N. 
 port:d of the transept, one of the most beautiful examples of 
 Spanish renaissance in all Mexico.” 
 
 Th* m.t'sive proportions of the edifice are seen to great disadvantage 
 fr i the p:trk-!ike Plaza de la Constitucion , which extends clear along one 
 - ;• of it. and from the narrow streets which hem it in on its three other 
 
 ■ - It lands upon a slightly elevated platform or terrace covering a 
 wi i<- area An encircling iron fence with posts surmounted by winged 
 
 ..•l' the work of an American foundry established in Puebla in 1825) 
 cm lo-a-s the long, dreary stone-flagged atrium, which, with the massive 
 
 -id tira< -t ained buttresses, emphasizes the contrast between the some- 
 what uninviting exterior and the sumptuous interior. At first, the 
 >1 . - who settled in Puebla contented themselves with the modest 
 
 ch. erected .bout 1535> by Bishop Juan de Zumdrraga. In 1562 Fdipe 
 II p proved the plans for the present structure. These plans were drawn 
 by i h*- celebrated architect Juan de Herrera, who built the Spanish 
 1 rial, and who was the alleged constructor of the equally celebrated 
 }' l ;• of St ju ia a Cyclopean aqueduct erected by Trajan and considered 
 one of the finest Homan remains in Castile). The corner-stone of the ch. 
 was laid the same year, and it was completed April IS, 1649 (at a cost 
 of a million and a half pesos), and consecrated on that day by Bishop 
 Juan dr Polafox y Mendoza. It is 323 ft. long by 101 ft. wide, of dark 
 br wn -tone remarkably preserved. Its twin towers (240 ft. high) domi- 
 i. ’■ T he cit v and are visible for miles around. The lanterns capping the 
 towers are covered with red and yellow glazed tiles, and the great dome 
 
Cathedral. PUEBLA 57. Route. 513 
 
 (designed by Ferrar) is covered with yellow and green glazed tiles, giving 
 the effect of greenish gold. 
 
 The Campanario, erected in 1678 at a cost of $100,000 (according to 
 an old inscription on the tower), contains nearly a score of bells, with 
 various dates up to 1828. The largest weighs 9 tons and bears the date 
 1729. Its deep, melodious tones remind the traveller of certain of the 
 bells of Florence. A modern clock in the W. tower detracts from its 
 appearance. 
 
 The Main Entrance, between the towers, is surmounted by stone 
 carvings and basso-relievos in white marble. Sculptured saints and 
 figurines occupy the various niches, and over the central doorway is the 
 date 1664, which commemorates the completion of this portion of the ch. 
 Above is a crown and the insignia of the order of the Golden Fleece 
 ( Toison de oro ). On the r. is a basso-relievo representing St. Francis and 
 the stigmata; on the 1. is Santa Rosa offering a crown of flowers to the 
 Infant Jesus in the Virgin’s arms. The huge carved doors, swung on 
 massive pivots let into soffits, are not without interest. The side entrance 
 is embellished with statues, some of them arrayed in pontifical robes, 
 with medallions in marble, and with the Pope’s mitre and keys. The 
 massive side doors, with smaller ones cut into them, are studded with 
 bronze bosses. The monument in the atrium was erected in 1886 to the 
 memory of Pope Pius IX. 
 
 The Interior of the Cathedral is a veritable museum of pictures, not 
 all noteworthy: each of the 14 chapels has a half dozen or more; many 
 hang against the walls, and at the Altar de los Reyes there are 19. The 
 interior forms a huge parallelogram 295 ft. E. and W. and 153 N. and 
 S. The central nave ( Nave del Perdon) is 87 ft. high, and is separated 
 from the lateral naves (63 ft. high) by unusually massive, but graceful 
 stone columns. The interior view is marred by the coro in the centre — 
 a traditional remembrance of the early basilicas, and popular in Spanish 
 Cathedrals. The critical eye will note a preponderance of the Mexican 
 marble known as Puebla onyx (p. 518), which detracts somewhat from 
 the artistic ensemble. The effect of the great marble paved floor is ad- 
 mirable. The tall gilt rejas which separate the side chapels from the aisles 
 are very elaborate, and the chancels are splendidly carved examples 
 of earlv work. The 14 semi-oval paintings, in handsome gilt frames, 
 which hang from the lateral pilasters and represent the 14 stations of 
 the cross, are attributed to the celebrated Zapotec Indian painter, Miguel 
 Cabrera (p. cli), albeit the work (thanks to the meddling hand of the 
 modernizer) is sadly injured by restoration. The various confessionals 
 are good examples of native wood-carving. The few stained-glass win- 
 dows, which are not noteworthy, are of European origin. The massive 
 gilded candelabra are worth looking at. The seats on the side of the 
 crujia , or railed-off passage between the coro and the high altar, are re- 
 served for men, and a printed sign advises that women are not allowed 
 there even when accompanied by men. The opposite seats are for women. 
 The whole interior has an air of newness and of wealth in keeping with 
 the rich city of Puebla , of which the Cathedral is the spiritual head. 
 On the r. of the entrance from the plaza is a huge painting of San Cris- 
 tobal , and on the 1. a companion piece, Aparicion a. San Miguel — both 
 mediocre and by unknown painters. The unusually massive pulpits are 
 carved from the Puebla onyx. 
 
 The Coro contains a veritable art treasure in the fine marquetry 
 silleria, the w r ork of the master Pedro Munoz, who began it Aug. 24, 1719, 
 and completed it June 24, 1722. The panels of the 54 upper seats and 
 the 46 lower ones, as well as the graceful wooden shells which surmount 
 the former, and the beautiful doors of the side entrances, are inlaid in 
 many intricate patterns, no two alike. At the rear of the bishop’s seat 
 is a small inlaid door with a picture, in marquetry work, of St. Peter. 
 Behind this door (which always is to be unlocked and which rarely is) 
 is a shrine containing an alleged thorn (much venerated) from the Sa- 
 viour’s Crown. Above the door is an ivory figurine of the Purisima 
 Virgen. The old and quaint lectern (the work of Pedro Munoz ) carries 
 some time-stained pergamino books with illuminated text. Near the 
 entrance to the coro, let into the panelling of the seats at the 1., is an 
 
514 Route 57. 
 
 PUEBLA 
 
 Sacristy. 
 
 ov:il painting of the Nativity, with figures of San Pedro Arbeus, San 
 J wm X rpomureno, and others. The richly carved wood cases of the organs 
 are among the best in Mexico. The twin wheels of bells on the pilasters 
 of the rant are quaint relics of early Spanish days. 
 
 On the 1. outer wall of the coro are four large pictures illustrating scenes 
 in the life of the Virgin, painted by Jose Ibarra (p. cl) in 1732. On one 
 i- a curious inscription in old Spanish, to the effect that: “The most 
 singular miracle, which for the glory of the Holy Catholic Church and 
 the honor of Spain, was performed by Our Lord in the City of Toledo, 
 where the Holy Leocadia Virgin is. After more than 340 years after 
 sin- suffered martyrdom and was raised from the dead, she appeared 
 before King Recesvinto, all his court and a great multitude of the com- 
 monalty, and thanked archbishop San Ildefonso, who was present, for 
 h a \ ing defended against the Heretics the most pure and perpetual vir- 
 ginity of Mary the Mother of Jesus and Queen of the Angels.” 1 
 
 The High Altar, an elaborate structure of gilded pillars, green onyx, 
 and marble statuary, is considered superior to the similar feature in the 
 M xico City Cathedral. The original altar was by Ferrar, but the present 
 'tnicture was begun by Tolsa (after his own plans) and completed (in 
 18110 by Don Jose Manso. Additions have since been made by local 
 craftsmen, and §110,000 are said to have been already spent on the 
 structure. The bronze figure of La Purisima Virgen is one of Tolsa' s 
 best works. Beneath the presbiterio is a crypt, decorated with Puebla 
 onyx, wherein are buried certain ecclesiastics. 
 
 The Sagrario, which is located at the rear of the apse and is entered 
 from the S. end of the atrium, contains only one picture of note, a 
 Christ Praying in the Garden, the work of Miguel Geronimo Zendejas, 
 who died in Puebla in 1810, aged 92. 
 
 1'he Capilla de los Reyes, to which several steps ascend, behind the 
 high altar, in the apse, has a magnificent retablo designed by the famous 
 Spanish sculptor Juan Martinez Montanez, who was the author of vari- 
 ous celebrated retablos in Spain. Of the 19 paintings the six large ones 
 are hv Pedro Garcia Ferrar (who came from Spain with Bishop Palafox 
 in 1640), and are probably the only ones he painted in Mexico. The deco- 
 ration of the dome and the pendentives are by Cristobal de Villalpando 
 tp.c.xlix). The allegory of the Assumption, in the dome, is not without 
 merit. This chapel is often called Capilla de Nuestra Seiiora de la De- 
 fen a. from a huge painting of the Virgin in the centre. There are some 
 seulpt ures in oynx to the r. and 1. of the steps which lead up to the 
 altar, and outside the reja (which was newly gilded with the renova- 
 tion of the Cathedral) are two long Latin inscriptions referring to the 
 hist orv of the ch. Let into the chapel wall are several mortuary tablets 
 of ecclesiastics buried here. 
 
 The Sacristy, to the r. of the tabernaculo and the Altar de los Reyes , 
 
 : magnificent room, particularly notable for its great mural paintings, 
 
 richly framed, and for its estantes, for storing the vestments, of 
 ham homely carved wood. The painting at the head of the room and 
 t In* ad j a cent four on the sides are by Echave el Mozo (p. cxlviii). The first 
 i a version of a work by Rubens, representing The Triumph of Mary. 
 The other two principal ones represent The Triumph of the Cross and 
 tie T’ umph of Faith over Idolatry. Below the latter (on the 1.), which 
 i' Unown also jus El Templo Paqano, is a fine head of the Santisima Vir- 
 u n. attributed to Correggio. The three other large paintings (by Joa- 
 M agon, a Puebla painter of the 18th cent.), a Last Supper, Patro- 
 ' m d> la Santisima Virgen, and a curious Apocalipsis , are inferior in 
 •inality to the first-named pictures. There are also some minor paintings 
 of no particular merit, chief among them an Assumption by some pupil 
 of the Murillo School. The picture of the Virgin of Guadalupe is a copy 
 
 1 Saint Leocadia is one of the tutelars of the City of Toledo (Spain), 
 "here she was martyred at the command of the Emperor Dacian. On 
 ion referred to in the above picture, San Ildefonso, when the 
 int appeared to him, had the presence of mind to cut off a piece of the 
 h< « nlv messenger’s robe — still to be seen in the relicario of the Cathe- 
 dral of that city. 
 
Churches. 
 
 PUEBLA 
 
 57. Route . 515 
 
 of the original in the Church of Nuestra Sehora de Guadalupe at Guada- 
 lupe (Mex. City). Adjoining the sacristy, and reached through a short 
 pasillo at the r., is the 
 
 Sala Capitular, or Chapter Room, which is hung with magnificent 
 Flemish tapestries, after designs by Rubens , and presented to the Cathe- 
 dral by the Emperor Charles V . Mr. Baxter holds the view that the pagan 
 subjects of these superb textiles are out of harmony with, and produce 
 a strange effect in, a church. Church-meetings are often held in this 
 room, and the sacristan may refuse to show the tapestries to visitors be- 
 fore 5 p. M. 
 
 The panorama visible from the Cathedral Towers is very fine, and 
 these should be ascended if only for the sake of the view. The aspect of 
 the city, with its many tile covered domes, is very Oriental — recalling 
 certain cities of British India. The splendid snow-crowned summits of 
 Popocatepetl , Iztaccihuatl and Malinche almost overshadow the city 
 with their giant bulk. Far to the E., piercing the sky with its almost 
 perfect cone, rises the romantic Pico de Orizaba. Midway between Popo 
 and the “woman in white” is the gap through which the bold Cortes 
 led his mailed troops in their first advance (in 1519) on the Aztec metro- 
 polis. Near this natural mountain pass, but closer to the city, is the 
 celebrated Pyramid of Cholula (p. 518) crowned by its ch. of glistening 
 white. The Cerros de Guadalupe and Loreto are prominent features of 
 the suburbs. To the E. is the highway over which the American General 
 Scott led his troops (in 1847) to the siege and capture of Mexico City. 
 
 The Church of San Francisco (PI. E, 2), founded in 1532 (the pre- 
 sent edifice dates from 1667), has one of the most graceful towers in 
 Puebla , and a facade quite unlike anything else in the Republic. Its 
 unusual form of C hurrigueresque work chiselled in the stone, and its 
 decoration of glazed tiles set in red brick, are unique. Certain of the 
 lustred tiles are formed into flowers of blue and yellow on a white 
 ground with a connecting network of Mudejar patterns. A series of 
 blue and white vases, or jars, adorn the projecting angles of the brown 
 stone strip which reaches from the pave to the tower, and these, with 
 the tiled figures of santos , crosses, and whatnot, form a joyous ensemble 
 very unusual for a church facade. The interior is, on the whole, unin- 
 teresting; the coro with its Rococco stalls being the most noteworthy 
 feature. The old convent adjoining the ch. is now used as a Hospital 
 Militar. About 2 squares to the S.-E. is the (uninteresting) Templo de 
 la Cruz. In this immediate neighborhood, at the E. end of the Paseo 
 de San Francisco (at the W. end of which stands the ch. of the same 
 name), is a striking 
 
 Bronze Equestrian Statue of General Ignacio Zaragoza (the work of 
 Jesus F. Contreras , in 1895), PI. E, 1. According to the inscription it 
 was erected by the state of Puebla , in 1896, during the administration 
 of General Mucio P. Martinez. At the base of the pedestal are the names 
 of the generals who aided Zaragoza in his expulsion of the French troops 
 during the French Intervention. The Cerro de Guadalupe (Pl.E, 1), with 
 its frowning fortress, is visible to the 1., and behind the hospital, to the 
 r., is the Cerro de Loreto (PI. E, 1), also surmounted by a fortress. To 
 the 1. of the Zaragoza statue, across an intervening creek, is the 
 
 Church of San Jose (PI. D, 2) facing the plaza of the same name, 
 “with much remarkable tile- work, notably in the columns and pilasters 
 of the fagade. The treatment is blue and yellow, and the fine dome of 
 the chapel on the 1., with its drum, is covered with tiles of yellow, grayish- 
 blue, and orange. On the 1. near the ch. is a small dome brilliantly de- 
 corated in glazed tile. It does not belong to the ch. building itself, but 
 crowns the curato , the residence of the clergy of the parish. The dome 
 is covered with small white tiles decorated with designs in light blue; the 
 ribs are marked by two bands of yellow tile; the lantern is also in white 
 and light blue, with a belt of chevrons, and alternating dark blue and 
 yellow tiles at the base.” This ch. is best reached by taking a tram-cai 
 at the Plaza Principal and proceeding to the Plaza de San Jose. In the 
 
 Plazuela de San Francisco , facing the ch. of the same name but about 
 one square distant, is the charming old Fountain of San Miguel (Pl.D, 3), 
 a specimen of 18th cent, work which was erected in the Plaza Principal 
 
516 Route 57. 
 
 PUEBLA 
 
 Churches . 
 
 in 1777 but was brought hither in 1878. Immediately to the N.-W. of 
 t 1 m* fountain is the very quaint old Parian (PI. D, 3), or market, where 
 nl.| iron articles and other rubbish are exposed for sale. The distin- 
 guishing features of the long row of stalls are the projecting hoods above 
 the doors, and the white and blue tiles set in a red ground. Hard by is 
 one of the oddest and most interesting houses in the city. 
 
 La Casa de Alfenique (PI. D, 3), a prominent example of the old- 
 time architecture at one period peculiar to the city. “(The word al- 
 f> iquc is Spanish for almond-cake, and the house received the name from 
 its combination of florid ornamentation with elaborate tile-work — a 
 unique local development of the Churrigueresque. The term is equiva- 
 lent to a 4 ginger-bread house.’) The surface pattern is formed by blue 
 ami white glazed tiles set in a ground of plain red ones. The broad pro- 
 jecting stone-work that shelters the balconies in the upper story, at the 
 corner and elsewhere, is a common feature in the domestic architecture 
 of Puebla.” The house is late 17th cent, work, and is well worth looking 
 at. The house next door, No. 14 ( Calle de Raboso ), which houses the 
 Jefatura de Hacienda , also has a very curious facade inlaid with trian- 
 gular white tiles. The house yet further up the street, No. 8, is likewise a 
 curious old relic of Spanish colonial days. The odd porticoes (like wagon- 
 tops) above the upper windows, and the squat, white-tiled covered dome 
 at one corner, remind one of mediaeval times. 
 
 The Templo de La Compania (of Jesus), one square S. of the Plaza 
 Principal (PI. D, 3), is of cathedral-like proportions and has one of the 
 queerest domes in the city. This dome, w’hich is covered with blue and 
 white tiles and surmounted by a bizarre lantern decorated in the same 
 manner, is flanked by quaint flying buttresses and is noteworthy for a 
 maze of stone carving. The leaden facade is unusually repulsive. Within 
 are many mural paintings, most of them without merit. The altars are 
 over-decorated. The huge stoup is of onyx. 
 
 The Church of San Cristobal (Pl.D, 3), with an uninviting exterior, 
 ha> an interior that is not without interest; the most noteworthy ob- 
 jerts being several pieces of sculpture by Jose A. Villegas de Cora — a 
 giant figure of San Cristobal with the Child Jesus (in the r. transept at the 
 Altar dc San Cristobal), the Virgin of the High Altar, and an attractive 
 V irgin of Lourdes (between the high altar and the r. transept). The de- 
 corations are new. but the stucco-work — similar to that of Santo 
 I)nrn in go at Oaxaca — dates from the erection (early in the 17th cent.) 
 of the ch. Behind the quaint little balconies which overlook the single 
 aide arc' four huge paintings (the work of Lorenzo Zendejas) illustrating 
 scenes in the life of the Virgin. The ceiling beneath the organ loft is 
 J»art icularly elaborate. The huge stoup and pulpits are of Puebla onyx. 
 I'lie facade is elaborately carved; the material is the dark local stone 
 nt Pud, In, with strongly contrasting sculptures in white marble. The 
 dome i- of blue and yellow tiles. The ch. is sometimes called La Purisima 
 Concepcion, a name given it in 1687. 
 
 The Church of San Marcos, a 17th cent, foundation facing the Calle 
 1 PI C, 3), has a very quaint red tile front with square tile in- 
 
 forming pictures of santos and whatnot. The general appearance 
 of the facade is Flemish. 
 
 The- Church of Nuestra Sehora de la Soledad (W. of the Cathedral, 
 
 PI {_’• 0.. erected in 1731 , and consecrated (to Our Lady of Solitude) Mch. 
 • 17 Id. i< notable for its beautiful dome, which is covered with glazed 
 
 til's in black and white. On the facade is a sculptured allegory of the 
 A umphnn. The interior is chiefly noteworthy for two splendid examples 
 of (’hurrigucresque reredos, whose huge proportions entirely fill the 
 transepts. Overlooking the taberndculo are two unique celosias which 
 resemble coat-of-mail work. The two large allegorical paintings at the 
 r :md I. of the main entrance are the work of Pablo Joseph Talavera. In 
 i h»* immediate neighborhood are the (uninteresting) Church of San Juan 
 t in- Calli San Gerdnimo); and the old, heavily buttressed 
 Church of San Gcrbnimo (PI. I), 4), a Hieronymite foundation withamas- 
 • ribbt : dome. A short walk toward the N. brings us to the 
 
 Church of La Concepcion (PI. D, 4), which faces the main street but 
 which is entered from the narrow side street of La Concepcion. The blue 
 
57. Route. 517 
 
 Falls of Necaxa. PUEBLA STATE 
 
 and white tiled dome is a landmark. The two allegorical paintings 
 which flank the high altar are attributed to Ribera. One square further 
 W. (PI. D, 4), on the Calle Sacristia de Capuchinas, stands the Iglesia 
 de las Capuchinas with a prominent green and yellow tiled dome. In 
 the ch. is a quaint painting of the Virgin and Child with real gold orna- 
 ments appliqued on the canvas. The huge 
 
 Church of La Santisima, at the corner of the Calles Zaragoza and Fuen 
 Leal (PI. C, 3), contains a number of faded allegorical paintings of no great 
 worth. The interior decorations are new. The massive doors are covered 
 with bronze bosses. 
 
 The Convent Church of Santa Catarina (PI. C, 3) is almost filled 
 with towering ChurriguerGsque altars — of which there are 8 — with a 
 host of dilapidated paintings, figurines of santos , etc. The narrow single 
 nave seems too small to hold these huge relics of former grandeur, in 
 sharp contrast to which is the newly decorated high altar, with its pre- 
 dominating white and gold. Running along both sides of the nave is a 
 curious old dado of blue and white Puebla tiles in Moresque patterns. 
 The stuffy interior with its vestiges of former grandeur and its super- 
 abundance of roods and life-size saints — which are dusted each morn- 
 ing and wheeled out near the door like stuffed bears at a furrier’s — inter- 
 ests but oppresses one The bizarre polychrome tower and dome “are 
 strikingly good examples of the treatment of all the architectural mem- 
 bers with a surface of glazed tiles. On the base of the tower yellow glazed 
 tiles are set in unglazed ones of dull red. The columns and pilasters are 
 yellow and olive green. Under the belfry arch the decoration is dark 
 and light grayish blue, orange and yellow, purple and lilac, and light 
 grayish blue between yellow and orange. The ribs are brown. The ball 
 is yellow, green, and blue and white. The pinnacles are yellow and white 
 alternating with green.” 
 
 The Palacio Municipal (PI. D, 3), opposite the Cathedral, is a mod- 
 ern building in the Spanish Renaissance style and dates from 1907. It 
 occupies the site of the original palacio, erected in 1536. The fine salon 
 on the second floor is decorated in French Renaissance. The allegorical 
 paintings on the ceiling are by local painters. 
 
 The State of Puebla, one of the largest and richest of the Estados 
 del Centro (so called from a Carta de Puebla, or letter of authorization 
 permitting its settlement), with a population of 1,150,000 and a super- 
 ficial area of 31,616 sqr. kilom., occupies a commanding position on the 
 great Central Plateau, 7,000 ft. above sea-level, and is bounded on the 
 N. and E. by the state of Vera Cruz, on the S. by Oaxaca and Guerrero, 
 and on the W. by Morelos, Mexico, and Hidalgo. It is divided into 21 
 political partidos and subdivided into municipalidad.es ; the principal 
 towns (aside from Puebla, the capital, described at p. 509) being Atlixco 
 (p. 521); San Pedro Cholula (p. 518); Huejotzingo, San Pedro de los 
 Llanos and San Andres Chalchicomula (p. 496). Between the mountains 
 are some notable barrancas, chief among them Zacatldn, where one may 
 find the products of the temperate and torrid zones growing within a 
 few yards of each other. The barranca in the district of Huachinango, • 
 through which the Necaxa River flows and forms several fine cascades, 
 is particularly noteworthy. The falls 1 of this river (known in the state 
 of VeraCruz as the Tecalutla) are 540 ft. high. 
 
 The Climate is varied; hot in the south, temperate on the plateau, 
 and cold in the mountains. That of Puebla City is much like that of 
 Mex. City, with cool nights, warm days, and slight temperature varia- 
 tions. The most important mountain peaks are Popocatepetl, Iztaccihuatl, 
 and the Cofre de Perote. A myriad minor peaks dot the country, and 
 from their precipitous sides splendid mountain torrents plunge to the 
 
 1 Industrially the Falls of Necaxa are among the most important in the 
 Repub. Here the Mexican Light and Power Co. have established the Ne- 
 caxa Hydro-Electric Power Plant, which generates some 90,000 horse- 
 power of electrical energy used to supply light and power (carried over a 
 system of aerial wires, supported by several thousand steel towers each 
 50 ft. high) to Mexico City (96 M.), and to the mines of El Oro, 75 M. 
 away. The barranca through which the river flows is wildly picturesque. 
 
51 S Rte. 58. EXCURSIONS FROM PUEBLA 
 
 lowlands. Fine trees clothe the mt. slopes; beginning with conifers in 
 the higher altitudes, and ending with mahogany and many precious 
 dye-woods in the warm valleys at their base. 
 
 Tlu> Fauna and Flora present the same general characteristics of those 
 ( >f < .t her st ates of the Central Plateau. Agriculture is the leading industry : 
 some of the finest wheat lands in the Repub. lie contiguous to Atlixco. 
 Coffee, sugar-cane (there are upward of 30 sugar-mills in the state), 
 vanilla, tobacco, and many fine fruits grow in profusion. The region is 
 highly mineralized: gold, silver, and copper mines predominate. Of the 
 latter perhaps the most celebrated mines are near Teziuilan ( Hotel 
 Barron, $2.50 to $5 Am. PI.), a picturesque and very ancient town (pop. 
 15,000) near the border line between Puebla and Vera Cruz. The Onyx 
 quarries of thestate are celebrated throughout the Repub. The district of 
 Tecali produces a transparent onyx (comp. p. xcvi) which can be worked 
 into sheets of extreme thinness: various souvenirs are made from it — 
 paper-weights, knives, fruit groups, penholders, and whatnot. Thepalm- 
 lraf mats ( pelates , Aztec =petlall) made in and near Puebla are among the 
 bust in the Repub. The mineral Springs of Tehuacan (p. 526) are cele- 
 brated. 
 
 58. Excursions from Puebla. 
 
 a. To the Pyramid of Cholula (8M.). The most interest- 
 ing spot in the immediate environs and the only one to which 
 the traveller will perhaps be willing to devote much time. 
 
 By taking the 7.15 a. m. train ( Division de Matcmoros on the Ferrocarril 
 Interorennico, 14 kilom.; fare 1st cl. 42 c.; time 30 min., from the In- 
 teroceanic station ) the traveller will have ample time to visit the pyramid 
 and the town and return by the tram-cars (fare 25 c.) of the Compafiia 
 dr Tranvias Luz y Fuerza de Puebla , which leave the Cholula plaza at 
 10.45 a. m., and reach Puebla about noon. (Terminus near the Inter- 
 oceanic station.) 
 
 The rly. train runs toward the N. and affords inspiring views 
 of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl, on the 1. The valley is dotted 
 with ranches, hamlets, and also many churches, and through 
 the lowlands there winds a turgid river which furnishes power 
 to several cotton mills on its bank. Cholula is visible in the 
 far distance (a glistening white church crowning a high hill) 
 a- soon as we leave Puebla. 3 M. La Union. The line curves 
 and we travel eastward. The tile-covered ch. domes, towers, 
 and lanterns of Puebla glisten brightly in the sun. The valley 
 land is sown to wheat. The ruins of an old aqueduct are seen 
 on the 1. 5 M. Los Arcos. The volcanoes, which dominate 
 the plain like giant sentinels, seem surprisingly near. The view 
 of Popo is unobstructed and the eye embraces the great mt. 
 from the swelling base to the snow-clad cone. 
 
 S M . Cholula. The town spreads out back of the rly. station, while 
 tel. rises the ancient hill. Time can be saved by inspect- 
 ing t his first. (Albeit the trams pass the station they are apt to be crowded, 
 "id the traveller will only be sure of a seat when taking the car at the 
 terminus beyond the plaza.) We proceed for a few hundred yards along 
 trai . turn to the 1. and begin the ascent of the pyramid (p. 519). 
 The retrospective view as we ascend is magnificent. The valley round- 
 ;d"*ut i' very fertile and is under high cultivation. The principal feature 
 in the 
 
 Church at the Summit is a small crowned figurine of the Virgen de 
 l Urmrd\o8 . on the high altar. Conspicuous objects are the votive 
 offerings of alleged ailing ones who have been miraculously cured by the 
 
History. 
 
 CHOLULA 
 
 58. Route. 519 
 
 special intervention of the Virgin. To the native mind the next most 
 valuable possessions are the four, half life-size polychrome figures (in 
 the newly decorated camarin , at the rear of the apse) of San Alfonso 
 Maria de Ligorio, S. Buenaventura , S. Bernardo and S. Bernardino de 
 Sena. (If the camarin is locked call the sacristan. A fee, not obligatory, 
 of 25 c. is ample.) The view from the summit of the hill is very fine. The 
 hill itself is dilapidated, and the unkempt stairs are the haunt of dogs, 
 lizards, and beggars. The time-eroded ruins of other pyramids are fea- 
 tures in the landscape. About £ M. to the N.-W. are seen the many squat 
 domes of the ancient 
 
 Franciscan Church of San Gabriel, which we reach by following the 
 street which leads from the rly. station to the plaza , then turning to 
 the r. The ch. stands back in a huge yard which faces the plaza on the 
 E. It is very large, “ and the extent of the population of Cholula in the 
 early days is indicated by the fact that the enormous Capilla Real was 
 built for ‘overflow’ purposes. It is exceedingly plain in its austere 
 lines, and bears evidence of the Gothic influences that were strong in the 
 early period of Spanish-colonial work. The apse, in particular, is of 
 Gothic character.” Above the main entrance is the inscription, Iglesia 
 Lateranensis. The four large paintings at the r. and 1. of the high 
 altar, representing scenes in the life of San Francisco, are by Isauro G. 
 Cervantes, and date from 1906. The ribbed vaulting of the huge single 
 nave is an interesting specimen of early ecclesiastical work. At the r. 
 of the entrance is a Descent from the Cross, of good color. Date and 
 painter unknown. None of the several paintings in the sacristy are worth 
 looking at. The 14 pictures representing the Stations of the Cross are 
 chromos. The Spanish inscriptions near the main entrance refer to the 
 celebration of the third centenary (Oct. 28, 1894) of the placing in the ch. 
 of Nuestra Sehora de los Remedios the so-called miraculous image of that 
 santa, and to the restoration, in 1897, of the Franciscan ch. The old 
 doors are unusually massive and are heavy with iron bosses. A side view 
 of the ch. with its massive buttresses, of the polychrome tiled dome and 
 the many small domes of the adjoining chapel, is interesting. 
 
 The Capilla Real, known also as the C. de los Naturales (chapel of 
 the natives) and as the C. de Guadalupe, flanking the main ch. on the S., 
 is one of the most notable ecclesiastical structures in Cholula. Mr. Bax- 
 ter believes that its style was suggested by the great Mosque of Cordova 
 (Spain). The vaulted roof, which is square in plan, is supported by 64 
 large columns, which form seven naves in turn surmounted by 47 domes 
 or bovedas. The latter are comparatively modern, as the original struc- 
 ture, which .perhaps dated from the opening years of the 17th cent., 
 fell down in the night after its dedication. The enormous, bare interior 
 possesses fine acoustic properties. A number of mediocre paintings hang 
 on the walls; among them four large pictures depicting the Apparition 
 of the Virgin of Guadalupe to Juan Diego. The huge, carved stone stoup 
 is of undoubted antiquity. (The care-taker of the chapel dwells in the 
 rear, and as the chapel doors are generally locked, the traveller can at- 
 tract attention by pounding on the central door.) Between the Capilla 
 and the main ch. is a closed chapel called the Tercer Orden de San Fran- 
 chisee >, which contains nothing to interest the visitor. 
 
 History. The history of Cholula centres about the great pyramid, the 
 date of the erection of which (says Prescott) is unknown, for it was 
 found there when the Aztecs entered on the plateau. ‘‘It had the form 
 common to the Mexican teocallis, that of a truncated pyramid, with 
 its four sides facing the cardinal points, and divided into the same num- 
 ber of terraces. Its original outlines, however, have been effaced by the 
 action of time and of the elements, while the growth of shrubs and wild 
 flowers, which have mantled over its surface, give it the appearance of 
 one of those symmetrical elevations thrown up by the caprice of nature 
 rather than by the industry of man. It was here that the god Quetzalcoatl 
 (p. 304) paused in his passage to the coast, and passed 20 years in teach- 
 ing the Toltec inhabitants the arts of civilization. It was in honor of this 
 benevolent deity that the stupendous mound was erected, on which the 
 traveller still gazes as the most colossal fabric in New Spain, rivalling in 
 dimensions, and somewhat in form, the pyramidal structures of ancient 
 
PYRAMID OF CHOLULA 
 
 520 Rtc. 58. 
 
 I '.gypt. The hill was surmounted by a sumptuous edifice in which w 7 as the 
 image of this mystic ‘god of the air’ w T ith ebon features, unlike the fair 
 complexion which he bore upon earth, wearing a mitre on his head 
 waving with plumes -of fire, with a resplendent collar of gold round his 
 neck, pendants of mosaic turquois in his ears, a jewelled sceptre in one 
 hand, and a shield curiously painted, the emblem of his rule over the 
 winds, in the other. The sanctity of the place, hallowed by hoary tradi- 
 tion, and the magnificence of the temple and its services, made it an 
 object of veneration throughout the land, and pilgrims from the farthest 
 corner of Andhuac came to offer up their devotions at the shrine of 
 Quetzalcoatl. Cholida was, in short, -what Mecca is to the Mahometans 
 or Jerusalem among Christians: it was the Holy City of Anahuac. 
 
 “The religious rites were not performed, however, in the pure spirit 
 originally prescribed by its tutelary deity. His altars, as well as those of 
 the numerous Aztec gods, were stained with human blood; and 6,000 
 victims are said to have been annually offered up at their sanguinary 
 shrines. The great number of these may be estimated from the declara- 
 tion of Cortes that he counted 400 towers in the city; yet no temple had 
 more than two, many only one. High above the rest rose the ‘pyramid 
 of Cholula,’ with its undying fires flinging their radiance far and wide over 
 the capital, and proclaiming to the nations that there was the mystic 
 worship of the good deity who was one day to return and resume his 
 empire over the land. Nothing could be more grand than the view which 
 met the eye from the area on the truncated summit of the pyramid, 
 'toward the W. stretched that bold barrier of porphyritic rock which 
 Nature had reared around the Valley of Mexico, w 7 ith the huge Popocate- 
 petl and Iztaccihuatl standing like two colossal sentinels to guard the 
 entrance to the enchanted region. Far aw r a} 7 to the E. was seen the conical 
 head of Orizaba soaring high into the clouds, and nearer, the barren 
 though beautifully shaped Sierra de la Malinche , throwing its broad 
 shadows oyer the plains of Tlaxcala. Three of these are volcanoes higher 
 than the highest mountain-peak in Europe, and shrouded in snow 7 s which 
 never melt under the fierce sun of the tropics. At the foot of the spectator 
 lay the sacred city of Cholula, with its bright towers and pinnacles spark- 
 ling in the sun, reposing amidst gardens and verdant groves, which then 
 thickly studded the environs of the capital. Such was the magnificent 
 pr< -pect which met the gaze of the conquerors, and may still, with slight 
 change, meet that of the modern traveller, as from the platform of the 
 great pyramid his eye wanders over the fairest portion of the beautiful 
 plateau of Puetda .” 
 
 “When the Spanish conquerors reached this point on the march to 
 Mexico [says Mr. Baxter } » they found a large native city built around the 
 pyramid, and for some time Cholida remained one of the chief centres of 
 population in New 7 Spain.” It was claimed by Cortes that the city con- 
 t lined 20,000 houses within the w 7 alls, and as many more in the environs. 
 It was said to be of great antiquity, and Indian history recorded that it 
 wa founded by the primitive races w r ho overspread the land before the 
 advent of the Aztecs. During the Aztec Confederacy it was one of the 
 most populous and flourishing cities in the country, and w 7 as the great 
 commercial emporium of the Central Plateau. The inhabitants excelled 
 in various mechanical arts, especially that of working in metals, the 
 manufacture of cotton and agave cloths, and of a delicate kind of pottery, 
 rivalling, it is said, that of Florence in beauty. Though conspicuous for 
 its refinement the capital w 7 as even more venerated for the religious 
 traditions which invested it. It was the scene, in 1519, of a terrific battle 
 between the Conquistadores and the Cholulans, in which between three 
 and six thousand of the latter w r ere slain. This battle is referred to by 
 historians and bv the Indians as the ‘‘massacre of Cholula.” (For a 
 det ruled description consult Prescott’s Conquest of Mexico , vol. ii, cap. 
 vii, n. 21.) 
 
 “in due course Puebla, only 8 miles awav, became a great city and 
 drew to itself nearly all the inhabitants of Cholula, w r hich to-dav looks 
 as if it must have one church for at least every one hundred inhabitants 
 
 1 Spanish-Colonial Architecture in Mexico , by Sylvester Baxter. 
 
PUEBLA TO ATLIXCO 58. Rte. 521 
 
 — the domes and towers rising imposingly on every hand out of the 
 rectangular mesh of streets that spread away before the beholder who 
 looks down on the place from the pyramid summit. 
 
 “This pyramid, though a pre-Columbian structure, has an interest for 
 the present as a structural site for one of the most notable of the hill-top 
 pilgrimage temples that are commonly found crowning an eminence in 
 the neighborhood of all considerable populations in the country. This 
 combination of the colossal remains of indigenous religious architecture 
 with an interesting type of Spanish-Colonial work is unique, the Pagan 
 ruin making a formal base for the Christian temple, the Church of 
 Nuestra Senora de los Remedios. With its magnificent site, its stately 
 proportions, and its beautiful great dome resplendently glittering, cov- 
 ered with glazed tiles (green, white, and yellow) the scenic effect is some- 
 thing indescribably superb. Yet the church has been so radically restored, 
 both without and within, that it has been robbed of all charm beyond 
 that of the spectacular ensemble, which must always continue very great. 
 The pyramid itself — as measured by the eminent archaeologist, Mr. 
 Adolf F. Bandelier, and including the irregular windings that probably 
 are largely, if not entirely due to the ruinous condition of the structure 
 and its consequent falling away into what at first seems to be an almost 
 shapeless mound of earth — has the following dimensions: N. side 1,000 
 ft.; E. side 1,026; S. side 833; W. side 1,000. The lines of the several ter- 
 races are clearly discernible and suggest how imposing the structure 
 must have been in the old times when its form remained perfect. A long 
 winding inclined way of hewn stone, 14 ft. wide, constructed by the 
 Spaniards, is the present means of ascent to the summit, where the 
 temple stands in the midst of a plateau about 203 ft. from E. to W., and 
 144 ft. from N. to S. The architectural effect of this commanding space 
 about the church, surrounded by a handsome balustrade of stone, is 
 extraordinarily good even in its present dilapidated condition. When 
 carefully maintained it must have been a superb example of formal 
 design in art out of doors.” 
 
 On certain days the Cholula market, which flanks the 
 large tree-shaded plaza , is very animated. Indian women, 
 descendants of the Cholultecs of old, bring many home-made 
 articles and fresh vegetables (chief among the latter some fine 
 tomatoes and sturdy onions) here for sale and establish their 
 temporary stalls in or near the building. There are a number 
 of minor churches in Cholula , but they will not repay the trav- 
 eller for the time spent in visiting them. Returning from Cho- 
 lula by the tram-line we cross a fertile country, hilly in places. 
 Oyer these elevations the straining mules drag the loaded cars 
 with great difficulty. One or two old Spanish bridges, with 
 picturesque gateways, are passed on the homeward trip. 
 
 h. To Atlixco. After reading the following delightful de- 
 scription (by Mr. Frederic R. Guernsey) of a journey from 
 Puebla to Atlixco , most travellers will wish to add this trip to 
 their itinerary. (Trains of the Interoceanic rly. ; same line that 
 passes through Cholula. Time about 2 hrs. Fare, see p. xxxi. 
 The traveller may leave Puebla in the a. m. and return by an 
 afternoon train. The big tree of Atlixco , a giant Ahuehuete 
 almost as large as the great tree of Tule (p. 536), is one of the 
 attractions of the town.) 
 
 “The new section of the Interoceanic Railway, connecting Cuautla 
 with the old Matamoros line from Puebla , offers to travellers many charms 
 of scenery, and delightful views of the tierra caliente , always attractive 
 to dwellers on the cool tableland. 
 
Rte . 58. 
 
 PUEBLA TO ATLIXCO 
 
 “It is all down grade, cuesta abajo, from Cvautla to the much hotter 
 country around Atencingo , Chietla, and the famous sugar country where 
 ancient Matamoros reclines, a sultana, beneath a sky ardent and radiant 
 with the sun of the true tropics. . . . 
 
 The country, agriculturally, is very old, the plantations of cane 
 dating back to the 16th century. Miles on miles of vividly green cane- 
 fields, other miles of Indian corn in serried ranks interminable: here and 
 there clumps of noble palms, and also of great organ cacti, that vegetable 
 marvel. 
 
 “ Near the station of Pastor are enormous rock formations rising to a 
 great height from the flat country; one in particular resembles so closely 
 a pyramid that it only needs that a guide book shall say so to make the 
 tourist believe that here, at last, on Mexican soil, is a true pyramid. In 
 t he afternoon air, all vibrating with the heat, the purple bulk of the gigan- 
 tic rock seems to tremble on its base. It is a real, natural wonder. 
 
 “Down, and ever down, glides the train over the smooth roadbed, 
 startling myriads of white or yellow butterflies which rise in clouds over 
 fields the color of burnt orange, such is the mass of flowers of that now 
 fashionable hue. The tawny orange tint of the foreground contrasts 
 artistically with the background of bright-green cane, while far away 
 loom up the deep blue mountains like the hills of Paradise. Here, in the 
 early Mexican autumn, is the vast panorama, and feast of color which 
 Nature, the mighty and always audacious artist, flings, rich and palpitat- 
 ing. on her infinite canvas. What gradations of blue in the sky and on the 
 hills, what shades of restful green, and what pomp and glory of yellow! 
 
 You involuntarily exclaim: ‘How beautiful is the Mexican land!’ 
 Lavish is the color-feast, and if man, prosaically intent on his daily busi- 
 n( 'S fails properly to appreciate the glories of unsurpassed landscapes, 
 be sure the high gods revel in it all. 
 
 “The human element is present — the peons, brown and patient, 
 t iiling in the fields: the white man on his horse, perhaps overseer, admin- 
 i -trad nr or feudal lord of the soil: the active, bustling railway men, and 
 that inevitable company of station-platform commentators who, the 
 civilized world over, stand and utter their inanities, washed-out jokes 
 and banal observations whenever the locomotive draws up with its load 
 Glaciervilie, Alaska; Chubuk, Y T ucatan; Upper Tooting, 
 England, or Chietla, Mexico. 
 
 “ Venders of comestibles appear, as by enchantment, in the most 
 unlikely places. Men burned to a deep bronze come riding up to the 
 station and soon are seen drinking, with grateful appreciation, from cool 
 buttles full of red grosella, the local ‘fizz’ water, sold by the energetic 
 tr. fin-boy, who, dnv by day, travels through this magic land, gorgeous in 
 eoloring. and. healthily unconscious of it, peddles newspapers, ‘ aguas 
 gns, ms' fruit, chicle-gum, and Spanish novels. 
 
 livery where the ‘ ginetc,' the horseman of Mexico: everywhere the 
 distant purple mountains, the deep blue of the cloud-flecked sky, and, 
 for human chorus, the soft voices of the people of the hot-country. It is 
 I •: t 'I in the afternoon, and we have reached Matamoros, where, so great 
 i- the heat, the town seems to waver before one’s gaze. Palms and yet 
 nv * r • p.-din*. t ime-stained church towers, domes that glitter and reverber- 
 '• tie white rays of the sun: patios where fountains perpetually sing 
 ’ i 1 the enclosed exuberance of tropical vegetation, subdued to house- 
 hold decoration. 
 
 “Evidences of the prosperous sugar industry abound; the hacienda 
 buil i ss are extensive and numerous. Despite the climate, man has 
 ret lined sufficient vigor to work, and so, amid the bounty of nature, has 
 prospered. 
 
 The train here begins to climb up from tierra caliente to tierra tern- 
 phla, and we pass oddly named stations — Tatetla, Tepejojumba , Cham - 
 p a etc. Now the vegetation becomes less luxuriant, less riotously 
 1 ■ ifir, yet the orange, the lemon, coffee, etc., persist, not struggling 
 witl; i chilled and niggard soil, but with the genial permission of kindly 
 nature. 
 
 “Up. and ever up, till the vast, noble, and opulent Valley of Atlixco 
 is reached, a famous maize and wheat country, with many a huge and 
 
PUEBLA TO OAXACA CITY 59. Rte. 523 
 
 stately hacienda house, lordly in its proportions, and giving proof pal- 
 pable of the great wealth accumulated by the seigniorial owners of the 
 soil. Water abounds in this fortunate valley — water everywhere, rush- 
 ing down the channels carved out for it centuries ago, for the irrigation 
 system here was the work of the early Spaniards. There is wealth po- 
 tential and actual in fertile soil and abounding water. So here are lux- 
 ury, culture, and all that makes for the flowering of human life, in the 
 hacienda house. The human plant thrives here as well as wheat and 
 maize. 
 
 “ Afar off, to the left, the towers and domes of a highly-placed city 
 appear, ancient Atlixco , the seat of human settlement long before the 
 Spaniards came. Note the curious pyramidal cerrito of San Miguel be- 
 hind the little city. The picture with the movement of the train, ad- 
 vances to meet you. It is very unique, very strange, this city dating 
 back, as a home of white men, to the 16th century, a place wholly Span- 
 ish in its architectural suggestion. 
 
 “Up into the city by tranvia ; the place, most surprisingly, gains in 
 picturesqueness by closer view. Surely an exception to the rule that 
 distance lends enchantment, etc. We lodge at La Concordia Hotel, kept 
 by a Don Ramon , with a semi-German restaurant attached. Big and 
 bien ventilado is the hotel, and soon to undergo reforms and improve- 
 ments. 
 
 “ Atlixco means ‘the Place above the Waters,’ and here is water in 
 abundance, as in Rome and Havana. Water everywhere, and notably 
 gushing from a mediaeval fountain in front of the hotel. Population about 
 16,000, the people friendly, servicial , or obliging, and the place governed 
 admirably well by Don Ignacio Machorro, jefe 'politico , who banishes 
 beggars, tramps and thieves, and who carries a ‘big stick’ for evildoers. 
 The local ratero goes to Yucatan or Valle Nacional; the loafer must find 
 work or emigrate, and so there is peace, and you need not watch your 
 pockets or luggage. 
 
 “Climate is a golden mean between the heat of Cuautla and the cool- 
 ness of Puebla. It is a climate muy parejo, or even, all the year round. 
 The air has a delicious quality and yet not debilitating. Physicians in 
 this region recommend it, and when Atlixco comes to be better known 
 it will need a half-dozen hotels. 
 
 “In the orchards of the outskirts one finds coffee trees, mangoes, 
 oranges and limes. The little lanes are shady, and one may ride through 
 them at midday, quite cool. The time will come when people from the 
 City of Mexico will buy up the little orange and coffee places of the poor 
 people here, and build themselves winter villas. Atlixco has an elevation 
 of 1,686 meters as compared with the 2,240 of the City of Mexico, yet here 
 grows coffee and here flourishes the orange. 
 
 “Curious and peeping ‘Old Popo’ looks down into the streets of At- 
 lixco from behind the cerrito of San Miguel topped by a little white chapel. 
 In all this region one cannot escape Popo. The volcano sometimes seems 
 five miles away; it is, I believe, some sixteen miles. 
 
 “ Atlixco is in the modern movement. It is no dead-and-alive town 
 languidly dreaming the dream of the Middle Ages. And yet a most ar- 
 tistic and satisfying little city, full of color and of horsemen in charro 
 dress, and, late at night, one is awakened by the revelers returning from 
 some baile de confianza, or elegante , as often happens. Feminine Atlixco 
 is apparently always dancing. A cheerful place, and kindly people. 
 Puebla is only two hours up the railway, and so the City of Mexico is but 
 seven and a half hours away. Here is a coming winter resort, picturesque, 
 mild of climate, and near by healing waters.’’ 
 
 The journey from Puebla via Tehuacan to Oaxaca City, 
 in the picturesque State of Oaxaca, thence to the big tree of 
 Tule, one of the largest in the Americas if not in the world, 
 and onward to the Ruins of Mitla, which rank among the 
 most interesting of the many ruins in the Mexican Republic, 
 is described on the following pages. Route 59. 
 
524 Rte. 59. PUEBLA TO OAXACA AND MITLA 
 
 59. From Puebla via Tehuacan to Oaxaca City 
 ( thence to the Big Tree of Tule, and the Ruins of 
 
 Mitla). 
 
 From Puebla to Oaxaca, 228 M., Ferrocarril Mexicano del Sur. Daily 
 
 trains in about 12 hrs. For fare, see p. xxxi. Excursions are frequently run 
 (o Oaxaca and the Mitla Ruins ) at reduced rates; consult the newspapers 
 for detail. Also the Guia Oficial , and the company folders. — For the con- 
 venience of through passengers (from Mexico City) trains of the Mexican 
 Southern Illy, sometimes leave from the Interoceanic Rly. Station, at 
 Puebla. 
 
 The journey from Puebla to Oaxaca is picturesque and interesting 
 with inspiring mountain scenery, beautiful valleys sprinkled with old 
 Spanish churches, bridges and colonial relics, and magnificent snow- 
 crowned volcanoes nearly always in view. Best views from the left side 
 of the train. The line sweeps down from a high point on the Mexican 
 Plateau, to the tropical zone, then back through many winding canons 
 (over 4\% grades) to the tropical highlands; traversing fields of ripen- 
 ing sugar-cane, coffee-estates, mts. and plains, and passing picturesque 
 hamlets. The entire region is fraught with memories of the Spanish 
 cor, ;uistadores, and many of the customs of the simple inhabitants are 
 those that were in vogue when Hernan Cortes and his bold raiders first 
 entered the land. (The Mex. So. is operated by the Natl. Rlys. of Mex.) 
 
 Puebla, see p. 508. The train runs toward the S.-E., across 
 a fairly level country which slopes gently upward. Numerous 
 arroyos — the beds of rushing torrents during the rainy season 
 — intersect the plains, which are fertile and produce several 
 crops yearly of wheat, corn and alfalfa. The views of Popo 
 and its mate on one side, and the towering Malintzi on the 
 other, are grand. The retrospective view of Puebla de los 
 Angeles, with its host of tiled church-domes glistening in the 
 sun, is very attractive. The remains of many old Spanish 
 masonry bridges are seen. The white-walled haciendas bear 
 a look of thrift and comfort. 8 M. Chachapa (7,413 ft.). The 
 picturesque old yellow ch. which surmounts the hill on the 1. 
 ha ' a tiled Mudijar dome that smacks strongly of Persian in- 
 fluence. This is the forerunner of many churches that dot the 
 country, and advertise, by their polychrome tiled towers and 
 domes, the 20 or more potteries which the Dominican friars 
 cst a bl i s hc< 1 i n and near Puebla about the year 1 600. Comp. p. lxx. 
 
 11 M. Amozoc (7,593 ft.), the highest point on the line, is a 
 poor town with several small churches in a highly cultivated 
 region. The hot milk sold by the Indian women at the station 
 i' apt to be mixed with the excellent mt. water with which the 
 region is favored. The wool from the many sheep which browse 
 in the neighborhood is made into the bright-hued sarapes and 
 blankets used by the natives. The arroyos with which the 
 country is furrowed are fringed with the spiky plants of the 
 p d//uc-producing maguey (p.lxxxiii). The ploughs usedbythe 
 natives are of the type popular in Egypt thousands of years 
 ago. 16 M. Santa Rosa (7,521 ft.). A fine plain stretches away 
 from the station. A few friable red tiles for roofs are made in 
 the neighborhood. ISM. Tres Jagueyes (7,530 ft.) with several 
 native brick-kilns. A fine range of hills marks the horizon on 
 
TEPEACA 59. Route. 525 
 
 the 1. We cross a broad plain, with rich black soil, given over 
 to the cultivation of maguey plants. 
 
 23 M. Tepeaca (7,353 ft.) A straggling town in the centre of Maguey- 
 ales. Of the half-dozen or more churches visible from the train, the huge 
 square one (near the centre of the town) is the most picturesque. It is 
 in the Early Franciscan Style (comp. p. cxxix) , and is said to have been 
 erected by the order of Cortes, about 1530. The pointed turrets show 
 traces of Gothic influence. The interior contains nothing that would 
 interest the traveller. Tamales are a specialty with the Indian women 
 who sell comestibles at the station. In the outskirts of the town are some 
 ruinous Spanish bridges and the remains of an old military highway, 
 made soon after the Coriquest. As we proceed southward the valley 
 broadens and the twin volcanoes sentinel it. Scrub trees become a part 
 of the landscape view. For some distance the line sweeps across the 
 valley, then it enters an arid, rocky, hilly region. The few patches of 
 arable land between the hills are sown to wheat. The rails curve round 
 to the 1. and we descend to lower levels. The landscape improves and 
 the view broadens. Above the tops of the eucalyptus and Peruvian pep- 
 per-trees rise many ch. spires and domes. Many aloes remain untapped 
 (p. lxxxiii) hereabout, and the tall, flowering stalks resemble graceful 
 young trees. Corn thrives at the lower level, and broad milpas are fea- 
 tures of the landscape. 
 
 34 M. Rosendo Marquez (6,737 ft.), in a tree-dotted valley. 
 Point of departure for the Ferrocarril de San Marcos a Huajua - 
 pam de Leon , which runs hence through several small and 
 uninteresting towns to 75 K. Mucio Martinez. Another line 
 (Linea de Acatzingo) runs to the near-by town hr.) of Acat - 
 zingo. 
 
 The fine Pico de Orizaba is now a conspicuous and inspiring 
 feature in the landscape. The trend of the line is steadily 
 downward, and the air becomes warmer. 40 M. Tecama - 
 chalco (6,602 ft.), at the base of a hill (cab to the town 25 c.) to 
 the 1. of the station. Of the several churches, the one nearest 
 the station is the most interesting, — a relic of Spanish colonial 
 days. The line curves to the r. and traverses a pretty valley 
 green with corn, wheat and maguey. Tall hills delimn the 
 horizon on the r. and 1. 48 M. Las Animas (6,563 ft.). — 54 M. 
 Tlacotepec (6,469 ft.) in a region of palmettos, nopal, organ and 
 candelabra cacti (p. lxxxi) . The small town crouches behind the 
 hill (surmounted by a church) at the r. The view recalls cer- 
 tain bits of Tuscany. We continue toward the S. across a dry 
 valley hemmed in by hills and dotted with scrub trees. Far to 
 the 1. is descried an ancient ch. of cathedral-like proportions, 
 evidently standing alone on the broad plain. The tall yuccas 
 which rise from the straggling forest of mesquite are of unusual 
 size. Deep, rocky valleys choked with cacti, flocks of goats 
 tended by ragged goatherds, dry arroyos flanked by tall wil- 
 lows, and occasional milpas artificially irrigated are features 
 of the country. The white cone of Orizaba towers high above 
 the environing hills. We pass the nondescript stations of 
 65 M. Tepaneco (6,042 ft.) and 74 M. Carnero (5,640 ft.). As we 
 approach Tehuacan, the valleys take on a richer aspect. Haci- 
 endas dot the landscape; hobbled burros forage amid the 
 
526 Route 59. TEHUACAN Hot Springs. 
 
 alfalfa fields. The spires of Tehuacan are visible on the 1. — 
 7 9 M. Tehuacan (5,40S ft.), see below. 
 
 Tehuacan. — The town lies about 34 M. to the 1. of the station. Tram- 
 car." meet trains. Fare 0 c. Cabs to the hotels, 25 c.; within the town, 50 c. 
 the hr. Trunk by cargador (comp. p. lii), 25 c. A branch rly. connects Te~ 
 /. . icon with Esperanaa Station, on the Mex. Rly. (Rte. 52, p. 4S4), and 
 travellers entering Mexico through the port of Vera Cruz will find this the 
 shortest route to the springs. The trip across the hilly country is interest- 
 ing. Consult the Guia Ojicial for time of trains. 
 
 Hotels comp. p. xlvii; no omnibuses). Hotel Mexico (in the town of 
 T ■ u .cur. ) $2 to S4 a day, Am. PI. Baths 50 c. Hotel EL Riego, at El Riego 
 Spr, v. about 1 M. from the town) ; native management; $3 to $4, Am. PI. 
 Baths 50 c. The grandiloquent allurements in certain of the hotel adver- 
 ti.- mi nts are to be taken with a large grain of salt. Come to a clear undcr- 
 m ;* nding with the hotel manager regarding rates, baths, breakfasts, etc. 
 Demand good food, and scrutinize hotel bills before paying them. Take 
 nothing for granted, and arrange details and charges before engaging rooms. 
 Only cold swimming baths are free. The tram-cars which ply between the 
 rly. station and El Riego hotel are much cheaper than the carriages. If pos- 
 ble consult someone who has been at Tehuacan before planning an exten- 
 sive stay. 
 
 The Springs, of which there are a number, are scattered over the 
 adjacent country. The waters are said to be s-milar in composition to 
 ti.i < 'arlshad (.Bohemia) waters, and efficacious in liver and kidney dis- 
 orders. Tehuacan is frequently spoken of as the Carlsbad of Mexico, and 
 tie- spot is a popular resort. At the largest spring (which has a capacity 
 of a ut 3,250 gallons per minute) upward of 20,000 bottles of water are 
 prepared and shipped daily. The San Lorenzo , Cruz Roja , and others, 
 are popular brands: 15 C.-25 c. the bottle. 
 
 Tehuacan (in the state of Pueblo), with a pop. of 8,000, the 
 capital of the district of the same name and called Tehuacan 
 dt las Granados (from the fine pomegranates which grow in the 
 neighborhood), stands near the base of a range of tall hills 
 in a region where considerable wheat is grown. A pecul- 
 iarity of the district is the number of swift streams which race 
 from the adjacent mountains and traverse the country. The 
 water is impregnated with limestone, and during countless 
 ages, it has left, in certain of the old channels, deposits of lime 
 which make the beds resemble a segment of artificial drain 
 pipe. Many fine fruits grow roundabout, and a specialty of 
 the town is a sweet paste, a species of Turkish delight, flavored 
 with quince, cocoa-nut, pear, almond, etc., and sold (at 25 c.) 
 in astonishingly thick wood boxes. The small round boxes, 
 resembling those of the Celaya dulce (p. 131), range in price 
 fr<Mn 3 to 12 c. The town proper is devoid of special interest. 
 The several old churches, — El Carmen , La Parroquia , San 
 Franc Sen, etc., — with their polychrome tiled-domes, are chiefly 
 interesting from an architectural viewpoint. There are a few 
 pi' ant walks in the neighborhood, but outside the town the 
 country is a bit sandy. In this respect it resembles Carlsbad 
 in name only. Its principal fame rests in the curative power 
 of r waters, and its visitors usually seek physical rather than 
 mental relief. 
 
PUEBLA TO OAXACA CITY 59. Rte. 527 
 
 As we proceed southward from Tehuacan, the rly. traces a wide curve 
 to the 1. and half circles the town. On the r. the land drops away and 
 affords broad vistas of rich valleys crossed and re-crossed by narrow, 
 swiftly-running streams. The train sweeps round another wide bend to 
 the r., then proceeds due S. before trending again toward the 1. Several 
 fine horse-shoe curves are features of this bit of track. For several kilo- 
 metros the line zig-zags to and fro in search of a properly graded exit to 
 lower country, and the telegraph line takes a short cut across the fields 
 and joins the rly. at 88 M. La Huerta (4,762 ft.) on a fiat, alkaline plain, 
 bounded on the 1. by a tall, odd-looking hill which the winds and rains 
 have eroded into a fortress-like form. We keep company with this hill 
 for several miles, crossing, meanwhile, strips of land which present a pic- 
 ture of desolation. 
 
 92 M. Sanchez (4,496 ft.). The date-palms make pretty vistas in an 
 otherwise jejune landscape. We sweep steadily downward over many 
 reverse curves. The views become more tropical, and palms are con- 
 stant features. Here and there a solitary ch. shows a red or a tiled dome 
 above the trees. 99 M. Pantzingo (4,080 ft.). 103 M. San Sebastian (3,769 
 ft.). Far to the 1. is an old ch. with a yellow tiled dome, and hard by, 
 a dependent chapel, also tiled. The twin towers of the ch. are capped 
 with greenish-gold tiles that produce a handsome effect in the sunlight. 
 We traverse a wide, arid plain with racing clouds of dust, then haciendas 
 where groups of horses and mules are usually trampling and winnowing 
 grain. As we approach 112 M. Venta Salada (3,178 ft.) the line dips 
 sharply and crosses a deep gorge spanned by a steel bridge. Clumps of 
 bananas are seen, and wide fields of sugar-cane stretch away from the 
 station. Cones of crude piloncillo (sugar) in sacks are piled high on the 
 station platform awaiting shipment. The land slopes abruptly to a deep 
 gorge on the r. We sweep round to the 1. and traverse cane-fields and 
 dusty plains dotted with the omnipresent cacti. The hillsides are cov- 
 ered with many huge specimens of organ and candelabra cacti. A wild 
 country with impressive scenery. 120 M. Aldama (3,000 ft.), amid cane- 
 fields, about halfway between Puebla and Oaxaca. We descend a nar- 
 row valley to 
 
 121 M. San Antonio (2,578 ft.) amid cane, bananas and other sub- 
 tropical plants. Sugar-mills are features of the landscape. The train 
 soon enters a rocky region of canons on whose sides rise splendid speci- 
 mens of organ cacti. The tall, single stems of these bizarre plants are 
 particularly attractive, as are the many nopal and candelabra varieties. 
 A brawling mountain brook rushes through the gorge (El canon del 
 Rio Salado). 127 M. Mexxa (2,292 ft.) in a wild mt. ravine seen best from 
 the r. of the train. The birds, the river (Rio San Antonio), the flowers 
 and the atmosphere are very tropical. We descend the gulch over many 
 twists and curves and across steel bridges. After threading a series of 
 tunnels, the train rushes along the edge of high cliffs with huge over- 
 hanging rocks, seen to fine advantage from the rear platform. The 
 scenery is very striking. The gigantic balanced-rock at this point is one 
 of the most attractive bits on the road. The composition of the hills is 
 volcanic detritus mixed with huge boulders, the whole suggesting the 
 glacial epoch. We enter the state of Oaxaca (see p. 541). 139 M. Teco- 
 mavaca (1,869 ft.) in a productive fruit region. Native women offer bas- 
 kets (25 c.) of ciruelas (a species of plum) for sale. The valley broadens 
 and exposes fine corn-fields to view. We cross a narrow, plunging river 
 in a wide, sandy bed, over a long steel bridge. The scenery again be- 
 comes wild and picturesque. 146 M. Quiotepec (1,767 ft.), the lowest 
 point on the line, is a poor station in a tropical setting. The rly. con- 
 tinues to wind through the canon, which is aflame with fine flowering 
 trees. 157 M. Cuicatldn (1,948 ft.). 
 
 160 M. Tomellin (2,013 ft.), from which the ravine derives its name. 
 Tvly. restaurant, meals $1. The line flanks (on the r.) a barranca traversed 
 by a shallow river (El Tomdlin) with high mts. on the 1. We climb the 
 grade over many sharp curves, following the course of the river, 
 which hereabout has necessitated expensive masonry work, rip-rap and 
 the like. During the rainy season, the stream rushes through its re- 
 stricted banks with a roar that is awe-inspiring. Beyond the new station 
 
528 Route 60. 
 
 OAXACA CITY 
 
 of ' >■ :! we cr >ss the ravine on a single span steel bridge, and traverse 
 
 t< •: ,.-.s beneath overhanging granite balconies. In this region some 
 i. • . .. engineering feats have been accomplished at enormous expense. 
 . i narrows and we cross and re-cross the river. Tall clumps of 
 gr< .w in the warm pockets of the bottom-lands. 172 M. Al- 
 h. 117 ft. :. 1S2 M. Santa Catarina (4,359 ft.), with many banana 
 t r • Tin.- region is celebrated for many fine fruits; notably the mamey, 
 . . . .rat g«-. fig. papaya, chirimoya, etc. Orchids are features of the 
 • . . The scenery becomes less varied. 192 M. Parian (4,890 ft.). 
 \N il v out of the labyrinth of hills, crossing a number of high 
 
 i . : . The hillsides are dotted with palmettos, with palm-leaf fans 
 
 ir. ■ . »ry< > on their thin branches. At this point the persistent river has 
 
 I • liv< rted from its natural channel, through artificially made stone- 
 t . : . rit at great expense. The masonry side walls that protect the 
 
 trai ks are elaborate and costly. 
 
 j M /. v Sedas ( 6.304 ft.), another high point, at the top of the in- 
 rlm in;.* the canon, and whence we descend by gentle gradients into 
 t ; • a it if ul Oaxaca Valley. Telixtlahuacca Siding. 208 M. Huitzo 
 
 (5.520 ft.) with an old ch. (on the 1.) and a gable roof — unusual in ch. 
 nr i - - . tun in Mexico. The station is a shipping point for charcoal 
 
 ( ti . in the near-by hills) and for the beautiful Etla onyx (p. xevi) quar- 
 ts a few . I.-nu-tro* to the E. The line descends and sweeps across 
 
 1 • tit; - earefully cultivated and dotted with churches. Suchilgui - 
 
 tongo Siding. Magdalena Siding. 
 
 2 1*1 M . Etla (5,382 ft.) . An old aqueduct is visible on the 1. ; 
 cr» wiling the hill is a big ch. with a peaked roof. The plaza 
 and market of the town lie between the station and the main 
 Mrr. t. *222 M. Hacienda Blanca (5,179 ft.), a white-walled 
 farmhouse at the 1. of the station. We approach Oaxaca 
 through a fine valley threaded by the Atoyac River , which 
 flow- along the south-west edge of the city between green 
 hills. 228 M. Oaxaca, see below. 
 
 6o. Oaxaca City. 
 
 Arrival. | from the rly. station to the hotel and chief points of 
 
 int short Tram-cars and jitneys (the latter $2.50 an hr.; $1.50 
 
 for 4 hr. or leasl meet trains. 
 
 Hotels t ip. p. xlvii). Hotel Franeia; Hotel Mexico; Hotel Central, 
 ' ‘ A ut . .ii a par. Hates from $2 up per day, for rooms; meals a la 
 ' Ml i • ir the Plaza de Armas. The chofer or street-car conductor will 
 
 point the wav. 
 
 e s:-0ttlce t >.<• Federal (N. side of the Cathedral). TelegTaph- 
 
 Office m the same building. 
 
 Banks. / V .• u-.l dc Mexico (correspondents of the Mexico City 
 
 Hanking Corporation, S. A.). 
 
 Railways. Oaxn i vi& Orvente, Santa Cruz , El Tule, Aba solo, Guelavia) 
 Tlacolula, a point on the journey to (p. 536) the Ruins of 
 
 Mltls. 
 
 '' ' ‘ t Sinta Anita, Xoxo, San Isidro, Jalpan , Zaachila, La Trinir 
 
 L ■ ' .7 rwuldn. San Xicolds, Santiago Apostol, Ocotldn , Gues- 
 
 berhr. La r«ma) to (56 K.) Taviche. 
 
 ement • i stations to Ocotldn. thence San Dumisia , 
 I ' ’. Garznna. San Martin, Verjel, Bonequi) to (69 K.) Ejutla, 
 
 I ' ’ ! trains, fares, etc. consult the Rly. Folder, or the GuiaOficial. 
 
 Big Tree of Tule. without oroceed- 
 I irsii n to / Mi-tla , p. 5o4), or Tlacolula, 
 
 ' *' by the ( iaxaca-Tlocolula Rly. Line. Visitors pressed 
 
 * ;* ’ r "*"• ">sh to visit Mitla, may proceed by rly. (daily trains) to 
 7. Vila ml ; - k up some sort of a conveyance there for the rest of the 
 journo . Consult the hotel manager before making any definite plan. 
 

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OAXACA CITY 
 
 60. Route. 529 
 
 Oaxaca (pronounced wah-/id/i-cah) , a Spanish corruption 
 of the Indian Huaxyacac — “a place covered with trees” — 
 chief city of the state of Oaxaca , 5,067 ft. above sea-level, with 
 a population of 40,000, was changed in 1872 to Oaxaca de 
 # Juarez , in honor of Benito Pablo Juarez (p. 338). It is one of 
 the most attractive and interesting cities of the Repub., with 
 tram-cars, electric lights, telephones, and a progressive admin- 
 istration. As a rule the older houses are low, massive and 
 earthquake-resisting, with a more pronounced Spanish-Moorish 
 cast than those of many other Mexican cities. Certain of the 
 dwellings even are fortress-like in character — significant sur- 
 vivals of the days of political unrest. The fine portales (which 
 flank the Zdcalo) are, after those of Merida, among the most 
 picturesque in the country. A small army of hucksters, public- 
 letter writers ( evangelistas ) and peddlers pursue their voca- 
 tions beneath their grateful shade. Oaxaca is the leading 
 industrial and commercial centre of the state, and the metrop- 
 olis of the minor towns of Etla de Santiago, Nochixtlan, Asun- 
 cion, Villa Alvarez, Heroica Ejutla Crespo, Tlacolula de Ma- 
 tamoros, Tehuantepec and Salina Cruz. The most frequented 
 section, and the focus of the city life, is the shady, double plaza 
 of which the Cathedral is the commanding feature. A good 
 military band plays in the plaza on certain evenings (and 
 Sunday mornings), and the cloister-like portales and the 
 shaded walks of the parks are then brilliant and animated 
 expressions of the life of the Oaxaquehos. Saturday, the mar- 
 ket day of the Indians of the neighborhood, is one on which 
 the visitor may obtain the best views of the native life and 
 customs. The Mixtec and Zapotec Indians one sees here are 
 usually undersized, and there is considerable goitre among 
 the women. 
 
 The more one sees of the Mixtec and Zapotec tribes, the 
 stronger grows the conviction that their forebears were (per- 
 haps remotely) in some way linked with the Mongols. To the 
 eyes of some of them there is a suspicious slant, they possess 
 certain facial characteristics which vaguely recall the Canton- 
 ese and Fokicnese, and the tonal quality of their speech is not 
 unlike that of certain sections of Southern China. Some of their 
 women are every whit as unattractive as the Chinese women 
 of Canton and Amoy, with the same excoriating voices and 
 vituperative speech. They practise certain customs similar 
 to those cherished by Koreans. 
 
 The wool sarapes made by these Indians on primitive looms at their 
 homes are desirable and serviceable souvenirs. They vary widely in 
 quality and price; the good ones cost $25 and upward, the cheap ones 
 from $8 to $15. The Indians bring them to market on Saturdays and 
 always ask much more for them than they expect to receive. The finer 
 sarapes are usually bought up by brokers who ship them to the well- 
 known dealers antiques in Mexico City. From these dealers the 
 traveller can usually select from a wider variety (as the Indians some- 
 times bring only one or two in for sale) and get better quality and value 
 
OAXACA CITY 
 
 530 Route 60. 
 
 History. 
 
 ;s there are “tricks in the trade,” and the makers sometimes stoop to 
 ircrpt ion. The best grades (usual size 5 by 6 ft.) are of close texture and 
 ( ; \ , 1 with lasting vegetable colors. The tourist should see to it that his 
 
 • moth-eaten, are closely and evenly woven, of regula- 
 tion > i z t * , and are not made heavy by being moistened. Fine blue-and- 
 wl ite 8 irapes are the rarest and best. Unless closely watched the In- 
 i.m< u ill substitute poor articles for good ones. The hand-wrought, gold 
 hiign-c jewellery made and worn by the Miztecan and Zapotecan women 
 i> oiicn purchased by travellers as souvenirs. The quality of the gold is 
 usually 24 karat; prices vary according to the value placed on her pos- 
 m "ions by the wearer. Other attractive curios are the embroidered 
 K i made and worn by the Mazateca Indians of Oaxaca state. 
 
 History. The town was founded in 1486 by some soldiers of the Mexi- 
 can Kmperor Ahuizotl , who. in the course of a journey from the highland 
 capital to the / thmus of Tehuantepec , founded a fort here on the banks 
 •if r he Atoyac River. Because of the apparently inexhaustible deposits 
 of g"ld-ore in the vicinity, the district became popular and populous, 
 jm I the invading Spaniards so found it in 1521. From that date it was 
 Ultimately connected with the history of the conquistadores, for after its 
 definite occupation by Diego de Ordaz, a lieutenant of Cortes , it became 
 a fa v rite Spanish stronghold. The Mixtec and Zapotec Indians did not 
 permit the conquest to be facile, and history records many sanguinary 
 struggles with the Spaniards. It was not until after the complete sub- 
 jugat ion of Tenochtillan that Cortes was able to send a considerable force 
 to .. d ie the inhabitants and open through their possessions a route to 
 the southern sea. Early in 1522 Gonzalo de Sandoval, with 35 horse, 200 
 . P nidi troopers, and a swarm of Indian allies, advanced southward and 
 encountered t lie Mixtecas near Miila. Some weeks of guerrilla warfare 
 crimed, then the discomfited Indians retired toward Tehuantepec , and 
 
 • e Sp. mi irds mid their allies founded the towns of El Marquesado, San 
 U . Sr " Jxian Chapultepec, and others. In 1524 the cavaliers Juan 
 ( ' / ’'-'i ami //' *7 lando Badajoz named the growing settlement Antequera 
 i from the <>ld Roman town of Antequera la Vieja, in Andalucia ), and by 
 a .!••< re.- nf Charles V, dated July 6, 1529, it was made a ciudad and was 
 < ■ dl. -d Oaxaca The same edict created Heman Cortes Marquis of the 
 Yall> / of Oaxaca, and granted him an immense tract of adjacent land 
 
 < .Hi- i 1 Uer La Marquesada — the marquisate. “Thereafter Cortes was 
 - . n gen«-rally as the Marquis, and this dignified title, when used with- 
 
 0 it the name of the individual, has been always appropriated in the colo- 
 nii '. in an especial manner, to Cortes , as the title of Admiral was to 
 Columbus.” 
 
 T fir ' convent was established here in 1529 by Fray Gonzalo Lucero. 
 Tie- Oarara diocese dates from 1530, and it was one of the first four 
 rr .te i in New Spain. Coincidently, a Papal Bull confirmed the found- 
 mg of tin- town. An old chronicle, dated 1532, says Oaxaca possessed “five 
 h " ir.- 1 Cauilian families of pure blood without an African, a Jew, or a 
 
 1 or ,:m. mg them. It is a Bishop’s seat (the first Bishop was Juan Lopez 
 
 . appointed in 1530), not very big, yet a fair and beautiful city 
 > I - ; n 1 1, which standeth three score leagues from Mexico (city) in a 
 I !•• tit valley.” Oreat religious activity was shown between 1549 and 
 1 tablishing 160 churches in as many villages. 
 
 \not her writer speaks of this ancient bishopric as a “triple vale, tre- 
 f i in -dm pc, with the capital city, Oaxaca , at its stem. From the N. a 
 
 er leads into the Valley of Ella, through a billowy sea of corn- 
 This riv<-r turns S. as it reaches the city, and runs toward the Pa- 
 
 < it . through the I alley of Ejutla: while the third vale, known as Tla- 
 r i . trends westward. Whichever way the eye may wander, the view 
 »- id. <| bv hills. The city itself is built at the foot of a hill, as it slopes 
 
 fiat plain of stone buildings, above which, every 
 
 • ■ w ->'p;.ire<. are thrust up domes and towers of churches and convents. 
 
 I imi lediately above the city of Oaxaca one looks down 
 
 up a a fair -cene : smooth and verdant fields of cane and corn, dotted 
 
 hade r das and with Indian hamlets springing up at the 
 ha- ..f everv hill.” A great cholera epidemic in 1833 killed one eighth 
 of the population of the city, among them two brothers and the father 
 
Cathedral OAXACA CITY 60. Route. 531 
 
 of President Porfirio Diaz , who passed his childhood (house in the Calle 
 de la Soledad ) here. 
 
 Oaxaca has always been eminently Spanish and intensely Catholic. 
 When Miguel Hidalgo declared (in 1810) for Independence, he was vio- 
 lently denounced by the Bishop of Oaxaca as an “instrument of Satan.” 
 This clerical worthy so inflamed the public imagination that when two 
 of Hidalgo's aides ( Sehores Armenia and Lopez) came (in the guise of 
 pedlers) to get the trend of events, they were seized and executed — 
 their decapitated heads being publicly exposed in the street where they 
 were captured. The present Calle de Armenia y Lopez is a relic of the 
 ghastly occurrence. The revolucionarios retaliated promptly, and when 
 the royalist officer General Jose Maria Regules and several of his followers, 
 known to feel bitterly toward the cause, were captured, they were exe- 
 cuted on the identical spot where Hidalgo's emissaries were shot. There- 
 after the city was the scene of many bloody struggles. The patriot Jose 
 Maria Morelos entered the place through the marquesada (where the 
 Mex. So. Rly. station now stands) Nov. 24, 1812, and after a sharp 
 struggle in the streets captured the city with its military stores. 
 
 The Climate of Oaxaca is almost perfect; the average temperature is 
 70° Fahr., and Government Weather Bureau statistics show that it va- 
 ries but about 13° during a year. The rains are regular, and the rainfalls 
 (about 33 inches) usually occur between June and November. 
 
 Oaxaca possesses many churches, certain of them with decorationsun- 
 like those of other cities of the Repub. At the head of the city churches is 
 
 The Cathedral (Pl.C, 3), facing the Alameda Leon and flanking the 
 Plaza Mayor , founded in 1553 and completed in 1730 at a cost of $2,000,- 
 000. It has been bombarded and pillaged so many times that it is now 
 but a simulacrum of its former greatness. The fine pictures, altars and 
 other decorations which once adorned it have disappeared; those re- 
 maining have but little more than a passing interest for the traveller. 
 The general plan of the building is similar to that of Mexico City: a 
 nave and four aisles, two of the latter closed and occupied by 14 newly 
 decorated and uninteresting chapels. After the usual Spanish custom, 
 the nave is occupied by the coro in the front part, and then by the crujia 
 or way of the cross, and the high altar. Beyond the latter, in the apse, 
 is the Altar de los Reyes. Against the wall of the choir, facing the main 
 entrance, is the Altar of El Senor del Perdon, the Lord of Pardon. The 
 handsomely decorated Chapel of Nuestra Sehora de Guadalupe (at the 
 E. end) is attractive. Architecturally, the ch. has been much injured by 
 the recent thoughtless innovations that have sacrificed much of the 
 charm of antiquity, so that, as a whole, the edifice has lost the greater 
 part of its interest. Happily the beautiful facade remains intact, en- 
 riched bv some remarkably good sculpture by an unknown artist — 
 work probably of the 17th century. 
 
 Of the number of paintings, antique and modern, in the ch. perhaps 
 the most interesting are two in the Sacristy, one an Assumption , at- 
 tributed to Miguel Cabrera (comp. p. cli), and the other a Triumph of 
 the Virgin, possibly by Juan Correa (p. cxlix) or Cristobal de Villalpando 
 (p. cxlix). Near the entrance to the sacristia is a curious closet let into 
 the side wall of the aisle and protected by an iron grill, behind which is 
 a half-dozen or more brass busts of santos , chief among them San Fran- 
 cisco de A sis, S. Ignacio , S. Dominico, etc. The two huge allegorical paint- 
 ings to the r. and 1. of the main entrance are by Marcial de Sanlaella and 
 date from 1726. The coro contains nothing of interest. The two sets of 
 wheel bells that hang from the E. end are quaint. The organ is of Euro- 
 pean origin and dates from 1907. 
 
 Four squares N. of the Cathedral, and far surpassing it in interest, is the 
 unique Monastery and Church of Santo Domingo (PI. C, 2), one of the 
 largest conventual structures in the Repub., founded in 1575 and 
 completed a century later at a cost (which may be doubted) of 13 millions 
 of pesos. It is related that when the ch. was begun there was available 
 only two pesos and a half to start the work with. Because of the frequent 
 and sometimes violent earthquakes in the Valley of Oaxaca, the edifice 
 was given a fortress-like massiveness, consequently the monastery and 
 its ch. have passed comparatively uninjured through many shocks of 
 
532 Route 60. OAXACA CITY Santo Domingo. 
 
 extraordinary severity. Many of the chiselled stone santos have been 
 ; 1 and toppled from their niches in the fagade, and, owing to the 
 
 fai t that the ch. has been often used as a fortress, its massive walls are 
 ^ arred by shells. It was ruthlessly plundered and devastated by the 
 French troops during the French Intervention, who pulled down some 
 of the interior walls and desecrated the chapels. It is also related that 
 some of the fine paintings by Concha were valued by the iconoclastic 
 vandals, who appropriated them solely for their canvas; to obtain this, 
 they pounded and washed clear the fabric of the pictures. More than 
 once the sumptuous ch. has been used as a stable, while a large portion 
 of the beautiful reredos of the high altar went as kindling-wood for the 
 soldiers. 
 
 The church, together with the monastery which extends back of it, 
 occupies a space of over 550 ft. Twenty-one small iron angels on pedestals 
 guard the huge stone and brick-paved atrium, which is enclosed by a 
 time-stained iron reja. The brown, weather-beaten fagade is now badly 
 defaced. A host of swallows ( golondrinas ) have plastered their mud nests 
 beneath the ridges of the campanarios, which in turn are covered with 
 white and blue tiles. The quaint wire work on the main doors is inter- 
 esting. In the room at the base of the r. tower the sacristan has a small 
 workshop where he weaves dress-cloth strips much sought by the credu- 
 lous Indian parishioners, who attribute special qualities to them on ac- 
 count of their being marie in the church. 
 
 The interior [says Mr. Baxter] is one of the most splendid in Mexico 
 — indeed the most superb example of Baroque decoration in the country. 
 The walls and the great barrel-arched ceiling are covered in every part 
 with heavily gilded ornament and polychrome sculpture in high relief. 
 The effect is one of indescribable splendor. The scheme of decoration in 
 the domed vaulting of the organ-loft ceiling may be compared to an 
 enormous tree, extending in all directions its branches and its innumer- 
 able, lea vs of gold, between which appear the busts of saints, diminish- 
 ing in uze as the height increases, until, at the apex, only the faces are 
 shown.” 
 
 Thb bizarre idea is carried out on a smaller scale on the vaulted ceiling 
 ab.»ve the main entrance, below the loft, where 34 figures, including the 
 b . i of the Santisima and many bunches of grapes, hang, as it were, in 
 the branches of this odd genealogical tree of the Blessed Virgin. Flank- 
 ing the single, tile-paved nave, are eleven lateral chapels, enclosed 
 within screens of wrought iron, but connected by an interior pasiUo. 
 Th<- largest and finest chapel is that of the Virgen del Rosario (the Virgin 
 "i ' ’ 1 b‘- try This chapel is in itself a spacious temple, with its choir, 
 its md« 'pendent sacristy, and its towers. In splendor the interior vies 
 "ith the main ch. 1 A cry square foot of the walls and ceiling of the main 
 1 * v M -> <que decorations, and the arches in the clipped transepts, 
 
 . nd t h- pi-ndentives in the rear of the presbiterio, are decidedly Alham- 
 br a- in character, .with a tendency toward heraldic design. A host of 
 l by hr.. me santos in low relief adorn the over-elaborated ceiling above 
 ' 1 : ; ” ' r, prominent among them the bust of San Gregorio Magno, 
 
 - . . f the (iregorian chant widely used in Mexican churches. The 
 I" !f the S. transept (the work of Lievano ) is that of Don Juan 
 ' / first bishop of the Oaxaca diocese. That in the N. tran- 
 
 ■ ; • f Don /•/ ilo'iio G. Gillou \ the first archbishop of Oaxaca. 
 
 1 h * • original high altar was an elaborate affair of carved and gilded 
 [' Vex . City, and transported at enormous expense over the 
 1 ' *• !l * difficult route to Oaxaca. It was decorated in oil paintings by 
 1 ’ / ’ ; ' I 1 cxlv >. and installed in 1612, but was replaced by a yet 
 
 1 '■ ' r t.- .affair in 16S1, the original paintings and some of the 
 
 im - i cing retained. This second altar was destroyed in the War of the 
 • ' : ’ md later still it was proposed to scrape the walls clean of the 
 
 !”' 1 ornament for the sake of the gold contained therein. This vandal- 
 i even begun, but happily it was stopped before it proceeded far 
 
 k -'' ' do irreparable harm. So the magnificent interior remains one 
 of the great architectural spectacles of Mexico.” 
 
 1 • p r - ent high altar is a modest structure enclosing a silver open- 
 work casket in a glass case, guarded by four gilded angels. A small figure 
 
OAXACA CITY 
 
 60. Route. 533 
 
 of Christ on the Cross is the central object. On a marble tablet at the 
 right of the main entrance is the following inscription, in Spanish: 
 
 “ This sanctuary, which is considered one of the most notable in America , 
 was erected by the Dominican Fathers, who finished the work of construction 
 early in the 17th century. In the 19lh cent, the high altar was destroyed and 
 the church was closed 40 years, during which time it suffered lamentable 
 deterioration. The illustrious and most reverend Archbishop, Dr. Don 
 Eulogio G. Gillow, with the help of the Oaxaca people, repaired and redeco- 
 rated it, and on Nov. 2d, 1002, consecrated it to the Honor and Glory of 
 Christ the Redeemer. ’’ 
 
 The inscription at the 1. of the entrance, beneath a life-size polychrome 
 and blinded figure of the Virgin upholding a cross, is an excerpt from the 
 words of King Solomon, Third Book of Kings, Chapter VIII : 
 
 “ Oh Lord ! M ost High, God ! Look upon this thy temple with clement eyes. 
 Hearken to the supplications which we make thee and which thy children will 
 make thee in the succession of time when, laden with their offerings and their 
 tears, they come to implore thy pardon for their sins, to lament their mis- 
 fortune, to pray for rain for their crops, to invoke thy aid against plague and 
 hunger in the days of thy just punishment. 
 
 “ When strangers from far countries come hither attracted by the greatness 
 of thy name; when those who doubt, those who falter, and those who suffer 
 enter this holy place, hear them Lord; shower upon them thy kindness and thy 
 mercy.” 
 
 The convent at the E. end of the ch., now the Comandancia 
 Militar , is roofed with massive vaulting throughout. Originally 
 it was as elegant as it was substantial, richly decorated in its 
 enormous dormitories, handsome cloisters and corridors, 
 grand courts, and extensive gardens with fountains, basins, and 
 luxuriant vegetation. On its sequestration after the Reform 
 Laws it was converted into a barrack. 
 
 The huge Church of La Soledad (PI. B, 3), reached by several flights 
 of stone steps from the Ave. de la Independencia, W . of the Cathedral, 
 is a massive example of old Colonial architecture with a well-preserved 
 Baroque fagade carved in brown stone. It contains a locally celebrated 
 image, La Virgen de la Soledad (crowned with great solemnity in 1909), 
 to which miraculous healing powers are attributed. The Iglesia de los 
 Nieves (PI. D, 3), in the E. part of the city, facing the Calle Felix Diaz, 
 is very old and very quaint, with an odd, squat dome and many flying 
 buttresses. Waxen saints stand about the interior, and their attitudes 
 recall those of figures in a wax-works show. There is an old stone foun- 
 tain near the entrance. About five squares higher up the street, toward 
 the N., is the Iglesia de los Dolores (PI. E, 3), a nondescript structure 
 devoid of interest. Adjoining the market in the upper part of the town, 
 facing the primera C alle las Pascuas, is the Church of El Carmen (PI. 
 C, 2), called alto (upper), to distinguish it from the Carmen Ch. (PI. C , 3), 
 facing the Avenida Morelos, which is known as el bajo (lower). Further 
 down toward the centre of the city, in the Ave. Independencia, is the 
 curious old green-stone Church of San Felipe (PI. B.3), now but a tot- 
 tering relic of former magnificence. It contains several noteworthy 
 Churrigueresque altars and an elaborate reredo in the same style. The 
 Church of La Compania (PI. C, 4), at the S.-W. end of the Zocalo, has 
 been remodelled out of its former interest. The Ch. of San Juan de Dios 
 (PI. C,4), opposite the Mercado Porfirio Diaz, is the chosen shrine of the 
 Indians, and contains a number of bizarre paintings relating to episodes 
 of the religious conquest which succeeded the military invasion of the 
 Spaniards. Here may also be seen a number of portraits of the friars 
 whose life w r ork was associated with the early history of Oaxaca. Other 
 churches of minor importance are the Parroquia del Sangre de Cristo, 
 Guadalupe, San Felive, San Agustin, etc. The Episcopal Methodist 
 Mission maintains a Methodist Church in the city. 
 
 The rambling Palacio de Gobierno del Estado (PI. C, 4), which 
 flanks the S. side of the Zocalo, dates from Sept. 16, 1877, and contains 
 
534 IUe. 61. EXCURSIONS FROM OAXACA 
 
 h it little to interest the visitor. The Palacio Federal, on the N. side of 
 t iet 'at hedraJ, adjoins the fine new Instituto de Ciencias, which houses 
 t he State Library. In the archives of this are some interesting old docu- 
 nients in Spanish) relating to the Spanish Conquest, and to the early his- 
 t < >ry <>f the region. In this building is also the Mttseo del Estado (state 
 museum) with an interesting collection of Indian relics. Open all day, 
 free. Closed on Sundays and public holidays. 
 
 The Parque Llano del Patrocinio (called Llano and also Parque 
 B ’ d ) Juarez . at the N. end of the town (PL D, 1 '), is a pretty, semi- wild 
 sp< >t. with several fountains and some fine trees and flowers. In the centre 
 i' handsome bronze, life-size statue of Beniio Juarez on an attractive 
 P<-. lest al. fashioned architecturally after the style of the Mitla ruins. The 
 fallen and broken crown at the feet of the patriot, and to which he 
 points, is supposed to be that of the Archduke Maximilian. The inscrip- 
 tion on the rear of the statue advises that the monument was erected to 
 perpetuate the memory of the First Reformer , by the city council, during 
 the administration of Governor Martin Gonzalez , and that coincidently 
 the name of the park was changed to Benito Juarez. At the top of the 
 park is a bronze statue erected to the memory of the patriot Miguel 
 H :!'jn v Cos 1 ilia. The dates refer to his birth, his battles for liberty, and 
 hi' death. The stone lions (curious attitude for roaring lions) which 
 gu.trd the entrances to the paseo are by local sculptors. Facing the 
 Cathe Iral is the Alameda de Leon, with a bronze statue to General 
 At tot ■ d* Leon (b. 1794, d. 1S47), erected by the municipality in 1SS6. 
 
 Excursions. 1. To the Cerro del Fortin de Zaragoza (PI. A, 2), a 
 hill 350 ft. above the city) to the N.-W., 15 min. walk from the Plaza 
 M i >/ >r. Proceed W. to the Calle Crespo , thence N. to its intersection with 
 t h« • stairs 17 short flights and 17 landings) -which lead to the Calzada 
 J rcz. near the top. The colossal bronze statue (wt. 15 tons) of Benito 
 .1 . ■ re which crowns the hill, is the work of A. Cencetti , and was cast in 
 L • if in 1891. On the book which the Indian President holds in his hand 
 l- the word Reforma. The view from the esplanade at the base of the 
 ' f • - h fine and is well worth the climb. The tall hill directly in front 
 ’ • 'h< S.i is Monte Alban. The river which winds around its E. base is 
 t fi<- .1 Hundreds of square miles of mountain and valley land, and 
 
 • v ’:•!)>• streets, houses, and churches of the city, are all spread out 
 like a relief map. San Pablo Gueletao , where Juarez was born, lies 
 b*Lm 1 the hills at the N.-E. Mitla reposes some 25 M. to the E. The rly. 
 to Vh-xi i- City is seen stretching away to the W. Flowers and trees are 
 t • ; 'l.irii i'd on the hillsides, and it is proposed to make this elevated 
 
 ; ' v ; dar resort At the summit are the ruins of an old fortress, in 
 
 hirh I- weather-beaten French culverin ( culebrina ) with the name 
 l a i the date 1K54 — a relic of the French invasion of 1864-67. 
 
 Monte Alban PI. A, 5), 7 M. to the S.-W. A good walker can make 
 • 1 ilv in a day. Horse for the round trip $1.50. Part of the road 
 
 / t . .r bicycl* Unless the traveller is interested in archaeological 
 the journey will hardly repay him. The level hill-top shows 
 * 1 > ■ - "1 having been the centre of a considerable population in 
 
 ■ tit t • There are rock-carvings, the remains of fortresses and 
 I h« view is attractive, but an almost equally comprehensive 
 ' < ■ iv be had from the Cerro del Fortin, and with less exertion and 
 expenditure of time. 
 
 I hr it . urban town of San Felipe del Agua (St. Philip of the water), 
 4 k i J.. to th* N at the foot of the hill of the same name. Tram-cars at 
 tr- u*"it interval*. On certain days — particularly All Souls Day ( Dia 
 a- •’ . no — a curious Indian ceremony, called the Wedding of Skeletons, 
 h >U' md visitors from Oaxaca and the surround- 
 iTi- i untr* Other picturesque towns in the environs are Xoxocoildn, 
 San Juan Chapultepec , Tlalixtac and Tule (see p. 536). 
 
 6i. Excursion to the Ruins of Mitla. 
 
 I he Ruins of Mitla, among the most interesting and most accessible 
 ' ruined it ies. are well deserving of a visit. They lie about 
 25 M S.-E of Oaxaca City , in the town of San Pablo Mitla. A day and a 
 
RUINS OF MITLA 
 
 61. Route. 535 
 
 half is usually given over to the trip (which can be planned to the best 
 advantage with the help of the hotel manager), but where the traveller 
 is limited for time it can be accomplished in a day, provided one can get 
 a good team of horses. This means that one should start from the hotel 
 at 5 a. m., do the outward trip in 5-6 hrs., devote an hour to the inspec- 
 tion of the ruins, another to luncheon and rest, and return in the after- 
 noon. (A branch of the Mex. So. Rly. is under construction and should be 
 completed early in 1911. The outward trip can then be made in 1 hr. and 
 the round trip in one forenoon, at much less expense.) Saddle-horses, by 
 the day, $1.50. Stabling and provender in Hotel Quero, at Mitla, 70 c. 
 Unless the traveller knows the road, and speaks some Spanish, he will do 
 well to take one of the stable or hotel boys as a guide. Usual fee, $1, in 
 addition to horse hire. The regular charge for a vehicle (which includes 
 the services of a driver, stabling charge, etc., at Mitla ) varies from $10 
 for a single-seated, 2-wheeled cart (known as a volanta), with just room 
 enough for the traveller and his driver, to $18 for a double-seated 
 cabriolet (with room for two and a driver), and $25 for a vis-a-vis which 
 will hold 4 persons and a coachman. The two latter vehicles are pro- 
 tected by tops. The economical traveller may, by expressing his wish to 
 the hotel manager, become one of a party, and thus reduce the expense. 
 If there is no prospective traveller in the hotel at which one is stopping, 
 ask the manager to inquire at the other hotels. One may avoid the jolting 
 over the cobble-paved streets of Oaxaca by taking the tram-car of the 
 Ferrocarril Oaxaca y Orienle line to Santa Marfa del Tule (1 hr., fare 37 c.) 
 and await the vehicle there. The hotel proprietor will also phone to Tlaco - 
 lula and have a vehicle come to meet the traveller at Tule. The cars leave 
 Tule every 2 hrs. Oaxaca time. The city terminus of the car-line is at the 
 Mercado Porfirio Diaz, just S.-W. of the Plaza Principal. It would be a 
 greedy cyclist who would essay a second journey over the highway to 
 Mitla. In the T ule Valley the road is smooth and the going is good, but 
 fully § of the highroad is poor. A good walker can make the outward trip 
 in 7 hrs., visit the ruins by twilight of the same day, and return at his 
 leisure the day following. He will be able to register many pleasant im- 
 pressions of the Indians and their country life that will be impossible on 
 a quick trip over the road. At present parts of the road are not practi- 
 cable for automobiles. 
 
 The quaint and commodious Hotel of Don Felix Quero (pronounced 
 Keh- roh) at Mitla provides good bed and board at $3 a day, Am. PI. 
 The fine old cloisters and the ample patio with its fountains, birds, and 
 flowers are attractive. The toilet arrangements are somewhat crude and 
 primitive. If the traveller learns at Oaxaca that a party of 20 or more has 
 left for the ruins the day before, he had better postpone his trip until they 
 return, as there may be a lack of accommodations. Goggles to protect 
 the eyes from the sun’s glare, and vaseline or some similar substance 
 rubbed on the face to prevent sunburn, will be found invaluable. 
 
 The road leads due E. past the Cathedral and out the rocky 
 and ill-kept Avenida de la Independencia, to the suburbs. In 
 the early a. m. the valley fairly teems with Indian life. As one 
 threads the peaceful country road and passes scores of natives, 
 huge creaking carts, panniered burros, heavily laden mules 
 and horses all bound cityward, one can easily imagine one’s self 
 in some distant and forgotten corner of the world untouched 
 by the blight of progress and strenuosity, and where primitive 
 methods and customs are still in vogue. The quaint town of 
 Santa Lucia (often called Pueblo de los Ladrillos , from its many 
 primitive brick-kilns) is reached in about 20 minutes. The 
 old ch. on the r. and the native houses are attractive. Beyond 
 San Sebastian we enter the pretty Tule Valley, with many big 
 trees, cacti and Bougainvillaea. 
 
536 Route 61. BIG TREE OF TULE 
 
 Santa Maria del Tule (Holy Mary of the bulrush), in the 
 centre of the valley of the same name, is celebrated for its 
 delicious mangoes, and as the home of the largest tree in Mex- 
 ico. It stands in the yard of the Church of Tule (consecrated 
 to La Yirgen de la Asuncion ) some 50 yards from the terminus 
 of the tram-line. A fee of 6 c., collected by the municipality 
 as a road tax, is charged for inspecting the tree. 
 
 This gigantic cypress, known to botanists as Taxodium distichum (Aztec 
 — ahuchuctl ) f is about 160 ft. high, and is one of the largest of its kind. 
 Four ft. from the ground the trunk measures 160 ft. in circumference, 
 and 2S persons with outstretched arms and finger-tips touching can 
 barely encircle it. The spread of the colossal branches is 140 ft. It is 
 known throughout Mexico as the Great Tree ofTule, and it is supposed 
 to have stood here for a thousand years before Columbus discovered 
 America. It sheltered Heman Cortes and his soldiers en route to Hondu- 
 ras nearly four centuries ago, and at that time its giant bulk com- 
 manded the admiration of the Spaniards. In point of size the Tule tree 
 resembles the great Banyan ( Ficus Indica ) in the Botanical Garden at Cal- 
 cutta, and the “Chestnut Tree of a Hundred Horses” — said to be the 
 largest tree in the world — at the foot of Mt. Etna. It is larger than any 
 of the great trees n Chapultepec Park, at Mexico City, the monarch of 
 which is the A rbol de Montezuma (p. 384). Baron Alexander Von Hum - 
 bold l was so impressed by the gigantic proportions of this great savin — 
 which he considered a worthy rival of the huge baobab ( Adansonia 
 digitata), of Africa, believed to be the oldest organic monument on 
 the globe — that he inscribed his name on the trunk — an inscription 
 now practically undecipherable, and almost overgrown by the bark. 
 A notice posted on the tree warns the traveller to refrain from muti- 
 lating it. The large tree at the side of the ch. in the yard is believed to 
 be the hi jo (son) of the big tree. 
 
 We continue our journey in a south-easterly direction across 
 a level and smiling valley, dotted with many trees and sown 
 to wheat, corn and alfalfa. The next point of interest, Tlaco - 
 chahuaya, which we reach at 9 a. m., possesses an old weather- 
 beaten ch. and a market-place swarming with country Indians 
 interestingly garbed. On market day a score or more primitive 
 native carts with huge, greaseless wheels may be seen lined 
 up in the plaza , like so many prairie-schooners. Ere long the 
 white towers of Tlacolula (Zapotec = glorious place) come 
 into the range of vision, and we reach the town at about 10.30. 
 It stands in a region of aboriginal mounds, with many high 
 fences of organ cacti. The stuffy little ch., in a huge yard, is 
 not without interest. The silver chancel railing is unusually 
 rich for a country ch., as are also the swinging silver lamps. 
 The pictures are quaint but without artistic merit. The largest 
 chapel is decorated in the style of the ch. of Santo Domingo at 
 ( hi.raca, and is a debased copy of that gorgeous interior. 
 Should the traveller chance to pass through the town on Fri- 
 day of Holy Week he may witness a queer Indian Plume dance 
 (in the ch. yard); the natives who take part wear bizarre, 
 pagan costumes and masks. Directly behind the ch. is the 
 highway leading away to Tehuantepec (p. 554). The town is 
 also the point of departure for the near-by ruins of Gui-y-Baa, 
 
SAN PABLO MITLA 61. Route. 537 
 
 which are inferior to those of Mitla , and which will scarcely 
 repay one for the time spent in visiting them. 
 
 Beyond Tlacolula the road becomes roughish. We pass some high cliffs 
 on the left, with some crude picture-writing on the walls. From here 
 onward the highway winds through a region marked with vestiges of the 
 ancient Zapotec civilization. Most of the natives one meets refuse to 
 understand spoken Spanish. At the head of a wide and romantically sit- 
 uated valley, leading away to the 1., we descry the red-domed ch. of San 
 Pablo Mitla. We descend a sandy hill, cross a dry, boulder-strewn river- 
 bed, and halt before the squat store ( La Sorpresa) and Hotel of Don 
 Felix Quero. The wide-spreading wild-fig trees ( Higos monteses), which 
 adorn the little plaza , harbor many song-birds. The hotel is characteris- 
 tically Mexican, with a charming great patio — flower-embowered, fra- 
 grant and restful. 
 
 San Pablo Mitla is a small, quaint Zapotec Indian settle- 
 ment, with primitive dwellings overshadowed by flowering 
 oleanders, pomegranates, orange and lemon trees; and by 
 organ cacti which are used as hedge-fences. Nearly all the 
 inhabitants speak the Zapotec dialect. Strong winds are apt 
 to blow across the valley in Nov. and Dec., and render these 
 months unpleasant. 
 
 Perhaps the best guide to the ruins is the son of Senor Quero. A fee 
 of SI for an individual or a party is ample. The conserve, or care-taker 
 of the ruins, who carries the keys to the underground passages, expects 
 a small fee for unlocking the doors : 25 c. for one person or 50 c. for a party 
 is enough. Not obligatory. 
 
 The Ruins, which can be explored easily in 1 hr., lie \ M. 
 back of the hotel, toward the N.-E. Turn to the 1. and take the 
 road (flanked by high organ cacti) leading away from the 
 plaza. A 3 min. walk brings one to the edge of a shallow stream 
 (misnamed Rio Grande ) in a wide, sandy bed. We climb the 
 opposite hill, turn to the r. and find ourselves in the midst of 
 the first group of ruins, called by the natives, El Quemazon 
 (excessive heat) . This group is in too ruinous a state to be of 
 sustained interest. 
 
 The scorching sun of southern Mexico has preserved the Mitla ruins 
 so that they are in much the same condition to-day as they were when 
 the Spaniards discovered them nearly four centuries ago. In architec- 
 tural beauty and excellence of detail, they rank lower than those of 
 Palenque (p. 567) or Chichen-Itza (p. 581), but they are nevertheless 
 very interesting. Their peculiar and elaborate style of ornamentation 
 will give the traveller a fairly accurate idea of the degree of civilization 
 reached by the mysterious people who dwelt in this favored region 
 centuries before the dawn of the present era. Government experts guard 
 the ruins, make restorations, and check vandalism. Where the great 
 stone lintels have been cracked by time or earthquakes, strong iron sup- 
 ports have been substituted. The efforts to preserve the tombs from 
 obliteration are commendable. The contrast between the neatly-kept 
 patio of the hotel, abloom with flowers, and the arid plain of powdery 
 sand on which the ruins stand, is striking — one typifying life, the other 
 death. “The gloomy aspect of the locality accords well with the dread 
 significance of the name. A stream, with parched and shadeless banks, 
 flows through the valley; no birds sing, or flowers bloom, over the se- 
 pulchres of the Zapotec heroes.” 
 
 Climbing a low wall , we proceed across the deserted open to 
 El Patio de los Cruceros (of the crosses), a walled-in space 
 
5$ Route 61. 
 
 RUINS OF MITLA 
 
 w i i h a well-presented cement floor, at the right edge of which, 
 iir.tr the base of the wall, is a square hole with a large slanting 
 - <»ne which once closed it, and an iron gate. Dropping into 
 the hole we bend low, pass through the gate, and enter a cruci- 
 form subtcrraneo re-discovered hy Prof. Marshall SavUle in 
 1901. Of the three crosses the largest measures about 12 ft. in 
 length, 5 ft. in width and 6 ft. in height. The walls are of cut 
 stone in mosaic patterns similar to those of the outer walls. 
 The Indians lend an ear to the belief that an underground 
 pa .-sage leads across, and beneath, the court and connects with 
 another subterranean chamber wherein is stored the treasure 
 of the ancient Zapotec kings. Superstitious fear has prevented 
 further explorations — even of the other chambers, which the 
 hollow sounds given back from foot-falls would indicate lie 
 below the present ones. It is believed that the present sub- 
 ;> rrancos were opened and rifled by the Spaniards who first 
 di> covered the ruins. Traditions aver that the chambers are 
 filled with mummies. 
 
 N on-credulous relic-hunters, who in times past have dug up the earth 
 of the courts, have unearthed pottery in many shapes, painted urns, 
 urr< w-heads. gold jewellery (good specimens in the Museo at Mex. City) 
 Yuri :s Zapotec and Miztec relies. The Mexicans believe the In- 
 :un> know the whereabouts of immense treasure hidden amid the 
 ruins, an i that fear of an untimely death prevents their divulging the 
 seen t. From time to time bizarre metal ornaments, antique vessels of 
 g 1 . :md silver, and other curious Indian relics are found in the vicinity. 1 
 Th*-v usually gravitate to private museums or to dealers in antiques 
 in Mexico City. Terra-cotta figurines and funera- urns of a high order of 
 cr 'Uianship have been brought to light. The tools used by the ancient 
 / were of copper of such unusual hardness and density that many 
 
 < ut-ve they possessed the secret of tempering this metal. Many copper 
 in-t ruments nave been found in the vicinity, chiefly in the form of axes 
 • 1 like a Greek Tau; of pure copper, very thin and sharp. The old 
 m. • - v was in the form of copper discs. Travellers should be skeptical of 
 pseud. antiques offered for sale at the ruins. 
 
 At the N. end of the court is another subtcrraneo, devoid of 
 interest. We ascend a flight of reconstructed steps in the 
 wall at the top of which is an inscription admonishing travel- 
 ler' to aid in the preservation of the ruins. The Hall of the 
 Monoliths, with its six tall columns and its unusually massive 
 walls 1-5 ft. thick), is interesting. The lintels over the en- 
 trances are cut from solid blocks of stone and are 15-18 ft. 
 
 * Of unusual interest in this connection is the fact that in the Fernando 
 . ollcction (recentlv acquired by the Mex. Government), now 
 exh bited at the M t /seo National at Mex. City, are many fine pieces 
 . p. xciii > from Mitla; also a bronze Chinese idol (found in 
 Hitch . ' "Ian, near Oaraca City) some four inches high, 
 i-takahly of Chinese origin. A Chinese authority estimates its 
 ag. at ynX) years. The finding of this relic, perchance the cherished 
 I" "• -~-i »n of some chief who lived and died in this distant corner of 
 < < nturies before the Spanish Conquest, strengthens the theory 
 ■ * it ; !,»• Chinese were the ancestors of the Mayas (p. 579), and that they 
 i • : • . t ne humid valleys of Mexico and Central America ages before 
 Christopher Columbus was born. 
 
RUINS OF MITLA 
 
 61. Route. 539 
 
 long, about 4 ft. high and 5 ft. thick. The colossal porphyritic 
 pillars ranged along this hall are 3 ft. in diameter, about 14 ft. 
 high, and are thought to penetrate 6 ft. or more below the 
 surface. They were once ornamented and covered with mortar, 
 and it is thought they formerly supported the palace roof. 
 They have neither pedestal nor capital, and in this they are 
 unique, being, perchance, the only examples of the kind found 
 in American ruins. They were raised to their position by some 
 process of engineering unknown to the present-day Indians. 
 Similar stone pillars lie scattered about the ruins. The long, 
 narrow, open space flanking the Hall of the Monoliths is 
 called the Salon de los Monolitos. It is some 20 ft. wide, a 
 hundred or more long, with walls 10 ft. high, and with a fine 
 cement floor. Passing through an iron gate (which is un- 
 locked by the conserve), we traverse a narrow passage-way 
 with traces (on the walls) of the lustrous, dark-red paint with 
 which the cement facing was once covered. Sections of this 
 wall recall certain highly decorated houses in Pompeii. The 
 iron supports of the doors are modern. We enter the 
 
 Corrector de los Mosaicos (Corridor of the Mosaics), one of the most 
 interesting spots in the ruins. The floors have cut stone borders and 
 show evidence of having been covered with hard cement. A lively imagi- 
 nation could trace the remains of a fountain in the centre. The walls are 
 totally unlike the Yucatan ruins (which are carved) and the Palenque 
 palaces (celebrated for their sculptures and bas-relief work), being covered 
 with a sort of mosaic, of intricate and varied patterns, constructed of 
 pieces of stone about 7 inches in length and 1 inch in breadth, accu- 
 rately cut and fitted into the face of the wall, where some of them are 
 cemented. The outer walls of the ruins bear oblong panels of these 
 mosaics in the form of grecques and arabesques. The figures are rect- 
 angular and diagonal, and these, with the mosaics, give the distinguish- 
 ing character to the Mitla ruins. In certain places these miniature stone 
 tiles are cut with such nicety as to require no adhesive to keep them in 
 position, and no mortar is used. Measurements taken in various parts of 
 the ruins demonstrate that they were built with scientific accuracy; 
 some of the walls measure true to a minute fraction of an inch. 
 
 A little to the N. of the main group is a half-demolished temple on 
 to which a modern stone church (Catholic) has been grafted. Adjoining 
 it is the house of the padre who looks after the spiritual welfare of the 
 Indians. The temple is 284 ft. long and 108 ft. wide, with walls 6 ft. 
 thick. Two immense stone pillars, 12 ft. high, stand near the doorway, 
 at the back of the new ch. The walls carry the same diagonal mosaic 
 decorations, and one portion, now used as a stable, possesses better 
 specimens of color painting, in red and black, than can be found in the 
 main group. Hieroglyphs resembling those of Egypt predominate here, 
 and the characters (the only examples of ideographic writing found in 
 Mitla ) are as lustrous as when the color was (perhaps) first applied. 
 The sacristy of the new ch. was one of the rooms of the old temple. The 
 tower (completed in the 17th cent.) is built with stones from the orig- 
 inal structure. 
 
 On the return from the ch. and stable, we get a good rear view of the 
 walls with their elaborate and complicated patterns. Bearing to the 
 r. we leave the ruins, cross the shallow river at a point higher up than 
 on the outward journey, climb a stiffish hill on the opposite bank, and 
 pause to examine a subterraneo on the outskirts of the village. This 
 ruin, called El Sepulchro (the sepulchre), produced some small gold 
 bells ( cascabeles ) not long since. The underground chamber is adorned 
 with the same style of mosaic work. The country adjacent to Mitla is 
 
540 Route 61. HISTORY OF MITLA 
 
 dotted with ancient walls, mounds and graves. One of the pyramidal 
 mounds is 75 ft. high, is faced with stone, and is reached by a series of 
 stone steps: a small chapel crowns the summit. All of the tombs of the 
 region look toward the setting sun (emblematic of the fading life) and 
 some contain terra-cotta idols, usually in a sitting posture. 
 
 Some 2 M. to the W. is the Castle of Mitla, crowning an isolated, 
 precipitous and rocky hill, accessible only on the E. side. The somewhat 
 level summit is enclosed with a ruinous wall of hewn stone, 21 ft. thick 
 and 18 ft. high, with salient and retiring angles, and with curtains in- 
 terposed. On the E. side are double walls; within the enclosure are sev- 
 eral small buildings in a state of decay. The field of these ruins three 
 centuries ago was evidently very large. Razed defences, dwellings, great 
 heaps of stones and fragments of pottery are strewn about; the stones 
 massed evidently to serve as projectiles. Near the battlements great 
 rocks are poised, ready to be toppled upon an enemy attacking from 
 below. The fortifications follow the contour of the hill and present at 
 every point a perpendicular face to assailants. Hill-top fighting was in 
 vogue among Southern Mexican Indians before the Conquest, and the 
 many huge parcdones (walls) found adjacent to Mitla suggest the belief 
 that it was practised by the Zapotecs. In some cases these walls are 
 pierced by tombs, conveying the idea that they were used both for de- 
 fence and as burying places for the dead. A Zapotec tradition relates that 
 in the early days a sanguinary battle was fought here for the possession 
 of Montezuma's daughter. The Kings of the Zapotecs and the Mizlecs 
 wanted her for their respective sons: she was given to the Zapotecan 
 monarch, whereupon the Miztec king made war upon him and was de- 
 feated with heavy loss. 
 
 Not far from Mitla is the (uninteresting) village of Teotitlan (Dwelling 
 of the Gods), so called because the chief paba of the Miztecas once had 
 hi- residence on a hill in the vicinity. Beneath the house on the Hacienda 
 d> Saga ( 1 league distant) is an interesting suhterraneo believed to have 
 been the tomb of an Indian cacique. It was discovered by a servant who 
 saw a phosphorescent light hovering above a small aperture in the main 
 hall. An excavation revealed an extensive cruciform chamber with the 
 arms of ( he cross 30 ft. or more in length; three skeletons therein crum- 
 bled to dust on exposure to the outer air. The sides of the chamber are 
 formed of great stone blocks, 5 ft. in height, ornamented after the fash- 
 ion of the Mitla cruceros. Hieroglyphs, painted a bright red, with burn- 
 ished bases and carved in the solid stone, take the place of mosaics. 
 Several open cruceros lie wdthin easy walking distance of Mitla, but the 
 traveller will scarcely be repaid for visiting them, unless specially in- 
 terested. l’erhaps the finest one is on the sloping side of Mt. Girun. 
 
 History. The Ruins of Mitla (called by the Aztecs Mictlan — hell, 
 or a place of sadness, and by the Zapotecs, Leoba — tomb) first appear 
 in history in the account of them by the Spanish cleric Fray Martin de 
 l alone in , who visited the region en route to Tehuantepec in 1533. “We 
 pn - ed i says he) through a pueblo, in the Valley of Tlacolula, which is 
 called Mbtlan, where were found some edifices more worth seeing than 
 anything else in New Spain. ( Palenque , Uxmal and Chichen-Itza were 
 then unknown to the Spaniards.) Among them was a temple of the de- 
 nii>n, and the dwelling of its attendant — very sightly, particularly one 
 hall made of something like lattice-work. The fabric was of stone with 
 many figures and shapes: it had many doorways, each one built of three 
 
 f rrat tones, two at the sides and one at the top, all very thick and wide. 
 
 n th< e quarters there was another hall containing round pillars, each 
 one of a single piece, and so thick that two men could barely embrace 
 them; their height might be five fathoms.” 
 
 The first interest shown by the Mex. Government in the ruins was in 
 1 S02 when Don Luis Martin and Colonel de Laguna explored them. 
 Baron Alexander Von Humboldt visited them about this time. and was 
 much impressed by their magnificence. He says ( Political Essay on 
 Sew Spain, vol. ii, pp. 239-40): ‘‘What distinguish the ruins of Mitla 
 from all the other remains of Mexican architecture are six porphyry col- 
 umn-, which are placed in the midst of a vast hall, and support the 
 ceiling These columns, almost the only ones found in the new' conti- 
 
OAXACA DE JUAREZ 61. Route . 541 
 
 nent, bear strong marks of the infancy of the art. They have neither 
 base nor capitals. . . . The distribution of the apartments in the in- 
 terior of this singular edifice bears a striking analogy to what has been 
 remarked in the monuments of Upper Egypt.” 
 
 The French explorer Dupaix visited the ruins in 1806, and in 1830 
 the German traveller Muhlenpfordt made plans and drawings (originals 
 in the Institute at Oaxaca City) which were published. The French 
 archaeologist Charnay explored and photographed the groups in 1850. 
 Hubert Howe Bancroft speaks of them ( Native Races , vol. iv, p. 389) as 
 the finest group in the whole Mexican territory. “ I am inclined to be- 
 lieve (says he) that Mitla was built at a very early period of their civi- 
 lization, at a time when the builders were strongly influenced by the 
 Maya priesthood, if they were not themselves a branch of the Maya 
 people.” 
 
 “The Ruins called Mitla,” says Baldwin {Ancient America, pp. 117- 
 22), “are situated in the upper part of a great valley, and surrounded by 
 a waste, uncultivated region. At the time of the Spanish Conquest they 
 were old and much worn by time and the elements, but a very large 
 area was then covered by remains of ancient buildings. But what is most 
 remarkable, interesting and striking in these monuments, and which 
 alone would be sufficient to give them first rank among all known orders 
 of architecture, is the execution of their mosaic relievos — very different 
 from plain mosaic, and consequently requiring more ingenious combi- 
 nation, and greater art and labor. They are inlaid on the surface of the 
 wall, and their duration is owing to the method of fixing the prepared 
 stone into stone surfaces, which made their union perfect. These ruins 
 are remarkable among those of the country where they are found. One 
 fact presented by some of the edifices at Mitla has a certain degree of 
 historical significance: there appears to be evidence that they were oc- 
 cupied at some period by people less advanced in civilization than their 
 builders. Lying between two great groups entirely different in the archi- 
 tecture of their original buildings, this Mitla assemblage of stone and 
 structures possesses peculiarities belonging neither to those of Yucatan, 
 to the N.-E., nor to those of Central America to the S.-W. Though 
 from its geographic position it should form a connecting link between 
 the two great systems, yet it does not, but stands out peculiarly con- 
 spicuous for its singularities of architecture and ornament.” (In addi- 
 tion to the authorities mentioned the student may consult : Humboldt’s 
 Nouvelles Annales de Voyages; Charney’s Ruines Americaines ; Muh- 
 lenpfordt’s Mejico ; Bradford’s American Antiquities ; Brantz Meyer’s 
 Mexico A sit Was; Lemprifere’s Mexique; Delafield’s American Antiquities; 
 Prescott’s Conquest of Mexico .) 
 
 Oaxaca de Juarez (one of the most important maritime Estados 
 del Pacifico , with a pop. of 986,000 and an area of 91,664 sqr. kilom.; 
 birthplace of the patriot Benito Juarez) is bounded on the N. by the states 
 of Puebla and Vera Cruz , on the E. by Chiapas , on the W. by Guerrero 
 and on the S. by the Pacific Ocean The coast-line, which describes a 
 curve with the convexity toward the S., thus aiding to form the narrow- 
 est part of the Mex. territory, is low, sandy, and measures 410 kilom. 
 The state is divided into 26 political divisions with 8 cities, 32 towns, 
 1084 villages, 156 haciendas and 812 ranches. Within its borders is the 
 old and picturesque town of Tehuantepec , described at p. 554. The region 
 is rich but. extremely mountainous; the highest peak is Zempoaltepetl 
 ( zempoal — twenty, and tepetl — mountain), also called Zempoaltepec. 
 From the summit (11,965 ft.) of this towering giant one may enjoy the 
 unusual experience of looking clear across the continent; the Gulf of 
 Mexico is visible on the E. and the Pacific Ocean on the W. Few mts. 
 of the world offer a grander tropical panorama than Zempoaltepec (easily 
 scaled in summer), which should be climbed if only for the sake of the 
 view. (Trips to the summit can be planned at a reasonable cost with the 
 aid of the hotel management in Oaxaca City.) The Pico de Orizaba , 
 Malinche, Popocatepetl and many lesser peaks are visible from the crest. 
 Various arms of the Sierra Madre reach out from Zempoaltepec and cul- 
 minate in a number of minor peaks within the state. Manv of the lesser 
 peaks are 10,000 or more ft. above the level of the sea. The seismatic 
 
542 Route 61. 
 
 INDIAN TRIBES 
 
 disturbances which frequently agitate the state apparently start from 
 '/ n ipixiUepec and terminate in the city of Tehuantepec. The mt. sides 
 are covered with a rich and varied vegetation that embraces the pro- 
 ducts of all the zones. Several splendid streams spring from the higher 
 levels, fertilize the low-lying vales and plains, then pour their waters 
 into the adjacent oceans. 
 
 The fertility of the region is amazing; few of the Mex. states possess 
 greater natural resources and few are less developed. Magnificent trop- 
 ical iorests cluster about the base of the mts., and from greater heights, 
 splendid pine-groves look down upon them. The humid valleys between 
 the ridges are natural; wild gardens of great beauty and variety. One of 
 the finest of these valleys occupies the greater part of the central portion 
 of the state and is known as the Valley of Oaxaca, or Antequera. Between 
 the sun-scorched sands of the littoral, and the cold regions of the peaks, 
 almost every variety of tree known to the different zones is found. Some 
 of them produce magnificent dye and cabinet woods. Coffee, indigo, 
 vanilla, cochineal (p. 543), cacao, rice, cotton, sugar-cane, oils, fibres, 
 L r 1 1. iron, lead, coal, marble, onyx, and salt are among the products. 
 The celebrated tobacco district of El VaUe Nacional produces some of 
 the finest tobacco known. Cortes obtained gold from several of the rich 
 mines, of which there are many. The fruits, medicinal plants and flowers 
 are almost countless. 
 
 The Fauna is varied and interesting. Wild animals abound in the 
 virgin forests, many of which have perhaps never been penetrated by 
 civilized men. Jaguars, leopards, pumas, tapirs, wolves, foxes and what- 
 not roam the woods, unhunted by man, and many birds of beautiful 
 plumage give voice and color to the forests. Boa-constrictors and minor 
 reptilia are indigenous to the region; also the dreaded alacranes, taran- 
 tui :uid garrap.itas. Crocodiles and alligators infest the tropical rivers, 
 and the adjacent sea produces mother-of-pearl, pearl-oysters (p. 87) 
 and a multiplicity of fishes. Goat-raising is a growing industry in the 
 .V hitltin district, and the extraction of maguey fibre (known as pita 
 de Oaxaca ) is one of the many sources of wealth. Considerable chocolate 
 is manufactured. The Valley of Puebla Magdalena (Province of Etla) 
 possesses onyx-mines which produce onyx of great beauty and variety. 
 As the state lies between 16° and 18° N. of the equator, the climate is 
 consequently that of the torrid zone. A cooler temperature is found on 
 the mt. acclivities, while ice is brought down from the tall peaks by the 
 natives. It is cold throughout almost the entire region of the Mixteca 
 Alta, and temperate in the Valley of Oaxaca. 
 
 Within the state are many highly interesting and picturesque Indian 
 ruins, chief among them Mitla, described at p. 537. Near Teotitldn, 
 deep in the mts., is a curious cave, once the Mecca of the oracles of the 
 XaK.nis, who went hither to consult Maxclas (Spirit of the Shadows), 
 regarding the future of the Nahoa tribe. At Tehuantepec (p. 554) there 
 nrc pyramids (Kuins of Guerenguela) with stairs, fortresses, underground 
 tomb', j>ottcry, etc. At Magdalena there is a statue of Vixepecocha, a 
 prophet. P eta pa possesses caves with painted walls: Loallaga 
 mounds and hieroglyphics; Chihuitldn an ancient bridge; Guatulco a 
 prehistoric mound and the ruins of an ancient city; Tlacolula an an- 
 « icnt mound : Quiyechapa a ruined fortress; Etla underground tombs and 
 i 7 Petioles skulls preserved in lime; Quilapan a number of unex- 
 
 plored mounds; Monte Alban (p. 534) is a fortified holy place with sub- 
 terranean chambers, pyramids and hieroglyphics; Zachila has mounds, 
 burnt t ricks, walls and statues : Quiotepcc possesses a hill covered with 
 ruin' from which some fine jadeite, obsidian and jewellery have been 
 taken), platforms, terraced walls and a pyramid; Hualmapam sculptures 
 in 1< \\ relief, pottery and gold objects, and YanghtUan, sculptured hu- 
 man figures. 
 
 The principal Indian Tribes (of which there are about 15) of the state 
 
 mUy); ChaEnos ( Z . F. 
 
 (Z. F.): Chontals (Tequistlatecan F) : Mazatecos ( Zapotecan F .) ; Miles 
 ( Zoquean F.) ; Xetzichos (Zapotecan F.); Pirwmes (Zoquean F.) : Papo- 
 lucas Zap. F. ; Tepmscoltda (Z. F.) : and the Zapotecs, of which there are 
 many branches. Most prominent are the Mixtecos (Zap. F.). These 
 
COCHINEAL 
 
 61. Route. 543 
 
 Mixteco-Zapoteca number (census of 1900) about 580,000. The language 
 is spoken in Tehuantepec; the ruins of Mitla are within the Zapotecan 
 territory. 
 
 One of the Oaxaca towns, Juchitan (Toltec, Xochitl — flower, and 
 tlan — place), is celebrated as the home of a beautiful flower, called by 
 the Aztecs, Tlapalizqui-xochitl — (the Macpalxochitl or claw-tree, of 
 the Cheirostemon platani folium of the Bombaceas), supposed to be me- 
 dicinal, and venerated by the natives. The tree bears a curious and 
 beautiful red flower, the centre of which is in the form of a hand with 
 the fingers bent a little inward. Foreigners know it as the Arbol de las 
 Manitas (tree of the little .hands). The flower is most abundant in the 
 small pueblo of Yucuahe San Bartolome, where it is commonly called Flor 
 de Yucuahe. It was once the cause of a savage war between Montezuma 
 II and the Miztecan Lord Malinal: the Aztec emperor, struck by the 
 singular beauty of the flower, ordered that specimens be sent him. The 
 refusal provoked a war which resulted in disaster to the Miztecs. The 
 statement of certain writers that but two of these trees exist in the Re- 
 public (one in Toluca, the other in Mexico City) is incorrect. 
 
 Cochineal. The Indian village of Culiapdn, near Oaxaca City, is the 
 original home of the cochineal industry. There, at an unknown date, 
 the early Miztecs or the Zapotecs discovered that the dried bodies of the 
 female cochineal ( Coccus cacti) were a superior substitute for the ker- 
 mes, or scarlet grain (the modern rival of the famed Tyrian purple), 
 used by them to impart the rich and lasting dyes to their sarapes and 
 other cloths. Until 1703, when a German scientist ( Leeuwenhoeck ) dis- 
 covered Coccus cacti to be an insect, it was believed to be a seed or bloom 
 of the plant. These insects, which formerly throve in countless numbers 
 in the warm valley of Oaxaca, were gathered by the Indians and used in 
 an industry that made the district world-famous. Albeit cochineal has 
 been supplanted largely by aniline dyes, the Oaxaca Indians still employ 
 the insects to dye the richly colored (and very desirable) sarapes made 
 in their home workshops. The insects feed on the leaves of the Opuntia 
 cochinillif era. (sometimes called the cochineal fig) and other cacti closely 
 allied to the nopals (p. lxxxv). They remain attached to the spot on the 
 leaf where they were hatched, and their bodies grow rapidly as they ab- 
 sorb the juice of the cacti, until legs, antennae, and proboscis can hardly 
 be distinguished by the naked eye. They are so small that 70,000 or 
 more, in the dried state, weigh but a single pound. The females, which 
 alone produce the dye, contain the greatest amount of coloring matter im- 
 mediately prior to the escape of the young from the egg. They are then 
 detached from the plant and killed by being placed in boiling water or 
 in hot ovens. Afterwards, they are placed in the sun, on sheet-iron plates, 
 until they are perfectly dried, when they are marketed in 1 oz., £ lb. 
 and 1 lb. packages. Those killed in ovens develop a grayish red color and 
 are known as silver-cochineal. During the rainy season many of the 
 little insects (which multiply rapidly) are washed off the plants. About 
 six weeks after the commencement of the dry season they are found in 
 sufficient numbers to be harvested. The Indians make the rounds of 
 the nopalry with a wide-mouthed bag and a brush, and with the latter 
 they sweep thousands of the tiny specks into the bag. Three harvests 
 are gathered during the seven months of dry weather. The minute crea- 
 tures bear a strong resemblance to a milliped insect common in the 
 U. S. A. and known as the wood-louse — an insect of the genus Oniscus , 
 and not to be confounded with Pediculus capitis. The Indians affirm that 
 Oaxaca state was the original habitat of the cochineal insect (Spanish 
 cochinilla ) and that it was taken thence to Guatemala and the Canaries. 
 It is plentiful on the wild cacti of New Mexico, Texas and Southern Cali- 
 fornia, but the dyes produced from it are pale in comparison to those of 
 Oaxaca. It is said that the splendid mantas used by Montezuma and 
 the Aztec nobles were dyed with cochineal. 
 
IX. SOUTHERN MEXICO, 
 
 62. From Cordoba to Santa Lucrecia (thence to 
 
 points on the Tehuantepec National, and the Pan- 
 American Railways) 544 
 
 Banana Culture, 545. — Sugar-Cane, 546. — The Valle 
 N acional, 547. — The Melon Zapote, 548. — Bird 
 Life, 549. 
 
 63. From Coatzacoalcos (Puerto Mexico) via Santa 
 
 Lucrecia, Rincon Antonio and Tehuantepec, to 
 Salina Cruz 550 
 
 The Indian Village of San Juan, 554. — Tehuantepec 
 City, 554. — Salina Cruz, 556. — History, 557. — The 
 Isthmus of Tehuantepec, 557. 
 
 64. From San Geronimo to the Guatemalan Frontier . 558 
 
 65. State of Tabasco 560 
 
 San Juan Bautista, 560. — Rubber Culture, 561. 
 
 66. State of Chiapas 563 
 
 Orchids, 564. — Historj 7 of Chiapas, 565. — Ruins of 
 Palenque, 566. — Tuxtla Gutierrez, 568. 
 
 67. State of Campeche 569 
 
 The Log-Wood Tree, 569. — City of Campeche, 570. — 
 Excursion to the Cenotes of Bolonchen, 570. 
 
 62. From Cordoba to Santa Lucrecia {thence to 
 
 points on the Tehuantepec National and the Pan- 
 American Railways ). 
 
 VERA CRUZ AND ISTHMUS RAILWAY. 
 (FERROCARRIL VERA CRUZ AL I ST MO) 
 
 Operated by the National Railways of Mexico. 
 
 -■ Kflomn. — 205 M. — in about 12 his. Santa Lncrecia, 
 t ; • connecting point with the Tehuantepec National Railway. In normal 
 tit:.* the Pullman cars (good buffet service) run through to Salina Cmz 
 •he Pacific Ocean terminus of the Tehuantepec Rlv.) without change. 
 Travellers arriving at Vera Cruz can board a train there for (93 Kiloms. 
 fr< it * Cdrdoba Tierra Blanca, a junction on the V. C. & Isthmus Line. 
 I - tin • r ard showing arrival and departure of trains, fares, etc. etc., con- 
 •*' dt the rlv. folder or the Guia Oficial. — The line traverses an attractive 
 tropical country well worth seeing by daylight. . 
 
 C6rdoba, see p. 486. The rlv. describes a wide curve to the 
 L l ine views (unobstructed) of the Pico de Orizaba on the r. 
 The landscape in which the volcano is the crowning point is 
 Hiperb. 10 K. Guadalupe . Extensive pine-apple plantations 
 spread out on each side of the line, stretch away to the distant 
 hills and alternate with well cultivated sugar-estates. Sugar- 
 mills can be seen busily at work on some of the plantations. 
 Cloud-capped mts. cut the W. sky-line; from their green ac- 
 
BANANAS 
 
 62. Route. 545 
 
 clivities many boisterous streams race down to irrigate the 
 meadow-lands. There is no necessity for artificial irrigation 
 here as the country is splendidly watered: the dews are so 
 heavy that they resemble slight rainfalls : in the early morning 
 before the sun has absorbed the moisture the vegetation and 
 the land are drenched as by a shower. The moist earth shows 
 a deep red against the green foliage, and every foot of it pro- 
 duces some form of vigorous plant life. These rich, alluvial 
 plains, which bask in the never-failing, all-vivifying sun, 
 know no agricultural repose. The production is almost in- 
 credible under the combined influence of heat and moisture. 
 Many of the tall trees develop some species of bloom and they 
 stand out in great color blotches against the environing 
 green. Miles of the lowlands are devoted to banana culture; 
 bananas being the great staple of the district. From this region 
 come many of the bananas sold in the great fruit markets of 
 the capital. 
 
 The Banana and Plantain, Musa sapientum and Musa paradisiaca, 
 thrive everywhere in the hot coast region and on the lower borders of 
 the temperate land. It is said that the first banana was brought to 
 America by a Dominican, in 1516, from the Canaries to Haiti, whence 
 the plants reached the Continent. The name Platano , of the Spanish, 
 is supposed to be derived from Palon, its most ancient name (or from 
 the Latin platanus ); Banane, the French, from its native Guinea appella- 
 tion, and Musa , the Italian, is perhaps taken from the Arabic. These 
 plants, like the agave and cocoa-palm, are very useful to man in many 
 ways; for besides producing delicious fruit, they furnish material, from 
 stalk and leaves, for paper, cordage, etc. From a year to 18 months is 
 required to ripen the fruit from the first planting, but as suckers spring 
 up all about the original stock, there is afterwards no labor, except that 
 of gathering the immense bunches of fruit, some of which attain to 80 lbs. 
 weight. The banana, it is said, produces to the acre 44 times as much 
 food as the potato, and 130 times as much as wheat. In this region one 
 acre contains usually 600 to 800 plants which yield annually a rich 
 harvest of fruit. Most of this is packed and shipped while green to be 
 ripened artificially at its destination. Charcoal fires and hermetically 
 sealed rooms are employed, and two days are required to ripen green 
 fruit. That picked ripe from the plant possesses a flavor seldom found 
 in the artificially matured specimens. The long, yellow plantain is cooked 
 before eaten: the short yellow fruit ( Dominico ) and the fat red ( morado ) 
 grow in the greatest abundance. 
 
 24 K. Xuchiles. We enter the canon of the Rio Blanco. In some places 
 magnificent trees festooned with flowering creepers clothe the slopes of 
 the gorge to the water’s edge, whence they reach out vine-clad arms that 
 meet and entwine themselves above the centre. The scenery becomes 
 wild and tropical. Conspicuous figures in the warm pockets of the 
 canon are the dense patches of bamboo; the canes 30 or 40 ft. high — 
 like great plumed carriage- whips; the culms often as thick as a man’s 
 thigh, while the Parra- grass beneath sends up blades 10 ft. high and seed 
 stalks 10 to 15 ft. In some of these jungle patches are fishing-poles 
 enough to supply every piscatorially-inclined boy in a populous city. 
 From one side of the canon wall, not over 20 ft. from the track, a fine 
 stream of water gushes out of a darksome cave, plunging beneath the 
 rails and wetting the cars as they pass. During the rainy season this 
 stream, Las Siete Aquas (The Seven Waters), bursts in full volume from 
 its mysterious source and presents an inspiring sight. To the r. of the 
 line the booming Rio Blanco runs like a mill-race through a narrow 
 gorge. The downward slope is sharp and the splendid forest trees which 
 flank the river edge seem to rise to unusual heights. 
 
546 Route 62. 
 
 SUGAR-CANE 
 
 As the ravine deepens the vegetation becomes more tropical, and in 
 the thickening jungle one observes many birds that are strangers to 
 ill*- i-.ilder highlands. Splendid specimens of the Belted-Kingfisher dart up 
 an : down t lie stream or sit in watchful attitudes on stones or projecting 
 i, : : Trogons. Motmots (with pendulum-like tails) Parrots, Laughing 
 
 , Chac alac is, Long-Tailed Blue Jays, Painted Redstarts, He- 
 pa’ii- Tanagers, Rufous Humming-Birds and almost numberless speci- 
 mcns of the remarkable avifauna of the district reward the watchful eye. 
 The botanist, the entomologist, and the ornithologically inclined trav- 
 eller long to leave the train here, pitch a camp beside the brawling 
 river and study the teeming insect, plant and bird life which enlivens 
 the place. In the lower reaches of the canon, the river broadens and the 
 tram crosses it on a crescent-shaped bridge. Here a charming view of 
 t he river is had as it dashes down its rocky course and swirls and bubbles 
 beneath the old stone arches. By crossing to the 1. side of the train as it 
 
 ■ iuits the bridge one gets a last look at this erstwhile turbulent stream, 
 changed now into a placid river which flows away broadly beneath tall, 
 overhanging trees and flower-decked, meadow-like banks. 28 K. Omealco. 
 
 35 K. Presidio. Cane-fields stretch away as far as the eye 
 can reach, and great quantities of sugar are produced in the 
 region. Every fat-paunched youngster visible hereabout ap- 
 pears to be chewing a segment of the sweet cane into the sem- 
 I dance of a primitive paint brush. 42 K. Motzorongo. Sugar is 
 the great staple, and the attention of every one is apparently 
 devoted to its production. The fertile valleys and plains of 
 the environing country are rich in the fine mould demanded 
 by the plant, which here attains a high state of perfection. 
 
 The first Sugar-Cane was brought to Mexico (1540) from the Canary 
 L' .rids via Santo Domingo , where the Spaniards cultivated it as early as 
 1520. Prior to its introduction the Mexicans and Indians extracted 
 sweets from native honey, the honey-ant, from the agave, and from the 
 sweet pith of the maize — an indigenous plant. Three varieties of the 
 cane are now grown: the Castilian, Havana, and Otaheite. The first is 
 not so rich in juice as the others but is full of saccharine matter. The 
 1». • - 1 manufactured article is produced from a mixture of the three kinds. 
 'Hie methods of culture, the crushing process, and the crystallization 
 are modern, similar to those practiced in other progressive, sugar-pro- 
 
 ■ 1 'icing countries. There are about 775 sugar-cane plantations in the 
 Itepub., and t he annual production of sugar is about 120,000 tons. 
 
 is K. Tezonapa. Fields of bright green sugar-cane alternate 
 with broad meadows. Glistening ponds alive with ducks, 
 boat-billed herons, graceful egrets, and tall, watchful cranes, 
 become features of the landscape. Near these shallow seas 
 and beneath the noble trees which dot the plains, bunches of 
 half-wild bronchos and sleek, fat cattle browse and wage a 
 perpetual war on their insect enemies. The land hereabout 
 recalls certain fat farms in Bourbon County, Kentucky — the 
 t all, wide-spreading trees free of underbrush, the well-rounded 
 short-horn cattle standing beneath them, and the general air 
 of fertility and abundance warranting the comparison. The 
 Rip Cosolapa , one of the many streams which flow through 
 this finely watered district, is crossed on a high bridge. 52 K. 
 Refugio. 59 K. Millan. 60 K. Cantera. 61 K. Acatlan. 
 
 f>7 K. Spur. The stations are numerous, though small, but the beau- 
 tiful landscape makes up for deficiencies. Between this point and Tierra 
 
CORDOBA TO THE ISTHMUS 62. Rte. 547 
 
 Blanca we pass through 70 K. Camalote , 78 K. Teteia, and 81 K. Prielas , 
 and in so doing traverse a diversified country of picturesque hills and 
 valleys, meadow-land and jungle. The region is warmed by a tropical 
 sun and is amazingly productive. Nature does so much that man does 
 little, and the besetting sins of the natives are procrastination and lack of 
 progressiveness. Everything displays the exuberant vigor of sunshine 
 and of a soil teeming with life and food. Many little foot trails, worn 
 smooth by countless bare feet, cross the rails and wind countryward 
 through arched tunnels of green foliage. White-clad Indian women glide 
 along these paths, and naked youngsters guard the adjacent land aflame 
 with ripening coffee. Some of the boys have small wicker baskets at- 
 tached to the waist, and into these they sweep the brilliant coffee-berries 
 much as the New England boy strips swamp bushes of succulent huckle- 
 berries. Quite a few of' the stations stand in the midst of clearings 
 reclaimed from the jungle ; and they are kept free from the ever-encroach- 
 ing plant-life only by the exercise of constant vigilance. The buildings 
 are often idealized by the presence of some giant jungle tree aflame with 
 fantastic flowers, and bearing on its moss-covered trunk a score or more 
 beautiful orchids. A year after a house is erected in these moist lowlands 
 it resembles a relic of the Spanish invasion. The humid, seed-laden 
 breezes, and the vigorous and ever-advancing plant-life, attack it on 
 every side. Fungi grow from the pores of the stones or bricks; convol- 
 vuli climb the sides and in a remarkably short time cover it with a 
 dense mass of vines; the prolific banana-plants rise in serried ranks to the 
 windows, and pampas-grass finds lodgment on the roof and grows up to 
 meet the globular yellow oranges or lemons which mayhap hang above it. 
 Fine palms are conspicuous features in the landscape, among them the 
 splendid Coyol , whose seeds furnish the palm-oil of commerce. Cocos 
 nucifera (p. 482) is usually conspicuous by its absence. It loves the sea 
 better than the jungle, and it is nearly always found near the shore or 
 within reach of the caressing salt breeze. We cross the Rio Juan Sanchez 
 and the Rio Amapa, both wide but shallow streams. 
 
 93 K. Tierra Blanca, the junction of the branch line to 
 Vera Cruz (63 miles, fare 1st cl. $4; 2d cl. $2.). Rly. restau- 
 rant ; meals SI . The drinking water should be avoided. Those 
 who dislike bottled waters or beer (both of which are served 
 at reasonable prices) may like to remember that the tea served 
 with meals is steeped in water that has been boiled. 
 
 103 K. San Jose. Chains of lakelets dot the lower reaches of the valley. 
 The surrounding country is one of jungle and meadow-land. 106 K. 
 Vista H ermosa. The grade slopes upward ; the land takes on the character 
 of a prairie country; the hills have retreated to a horizon so distant that 
 all outlines are lost in a blue haze. To the 1., far across the intervening 
 land, the snow-capped peak of Orizaba glistens clear against the sky. 
 The lowlands show ponds that resemble exaggerated mirrors, and yellow 
 lilies that nod and sparkle in the sunlight. Tall cranes wade the waters, 
 and triangular lines of ducks fly across them. 109 K. Los Changos . 
 121 K. Los Naranjos. 128 K. Loma San Juan. 134 K. Brisbin. 144 K. 
 Santa Cruz. 146 K. El Hule. We cross the Rio Papalodpam, or River of 
 Butterflies (Aztec, papatl, butterfly, apan , river — Sp. mariposa ), on the 
 largest bridge (5 spans, each 170 ft. long; cost $325,000) on the line. 
 The river is a muddy but picturesque water-way (the most important 
 stream in the state of Vera Cruz) for the many craft which float down 
 laden with bags and bales of inland produce. 158 K. Fuentevilla. 
 
 166 K. Obispo , in a region celebrated for its splendid fruits. The dis- 
 trict produces, among other things, oranges, lemons, limes, dates, tanger- 
 ines, sweet-cassava (known also as the Y uca amarga and as the Huaca- 
 mote — the yuca furnishes a kind of bread and tapioca ; the cassava 
 fields are called conucos ), pineapples, guavas, bread-fruit, and a host 
 of fine aromatic shrubs. To the W. lies the celebrated Valle Nacional, 
 or National valley, whence comes much of the fine tobacco (p. lxxvi) for 
 which Mexico is noted. There are many wild species; the cultivated 
 
.Vis Rtc. 62 . CORDOBA TO THE ISTHMUS 
 
 plants form the base of an important national industry, and an article* 
 of export. Men, women, and children hereabout protect the national 
 industry by smoking incessantly. 
 
 172 K. Agua Fria, in the midst of a beautiful country where many 
 immigrants from the United States have settled. American families with 
 roving tendencies have been attracted hither by the warm climate, the 
 w< mderful fertility of the land, and its low cost. Some of these settlers are 
 Mormons who have exchanged the lime-light of Utah for the sun-light of 
 tropical Mexico; here they propose to found a dynasty and a settlement 
 which will undoubtedly increase with the prolific abandon shown by the 
 insects and the vegetation. 183 K. Carmen.. Three fine peaks of tlie 
 Z. mpoaltepec (p. 541) range are in view on the eastern sky-line. Visible 
 to the r. of the station are some prehistoric mounds from which a few 
 specimens of fine old pottery have been taken. The station lies in the 
 centre of a good grazing country. Deep sea steamships come up the con- 
 tiguous river for fat cattle for the Cuban markets. 200 K. Perez. The 
 surrounding country is dotted with low guava bushes, hibiscus, verbena, 
 and wild-mandrake. Over 2,000 specimens of birds, reptiles, and insects 
 were collected here recently and sent to the Field Museum at Chicago 
 (l*. S. A.). 209 K. Lagos. 220 K. Isla. 227 K. Barranca. 
 
 237 K. Rivas. Between this and the next station (243 K. Jimba ) the 
 rl\ . line crosses two cusps of a ruined, crescent-shaped city buried for 
 untold centuries in the jungle. Many stone idols and similar objects 
 • some of which are now in the National Museum at Mexico City) have 
 been unearthed here. The eye travels eastward across a beautiful undu- 
 lating country bounded in the distance by the blue-tipped Tuxtla moun- 
 tain'. At the base of this volcanic range, in a region eternally warmed 
 l>v its subterranean fires, are the renowned Tuxtla tobacco plantations. 
 The waters of the Gulf are visible from the summits of the mountains. 
 In 1820 a German botanist, Doctor Leonard Fuchs, built himself a cabin 
 mar this range, and there he dw T elt for several years. The lovely Fuchsia 
 F. coccinia), which in this region is found in many beautiful varieties, 
 some of which attain the dignity of a tree, was named for this savant. 
 In the hills to the right of this region are many wild blackberries ( Rubus 
 frurtimsus — Sp. zarzamora). Fine streams course through the lowlands, 
 which arc a hunter’s paradise. 252 K. San Marcos; rly. restaurant, meals 
 SI . Near the station are (3) Alligator Lakes, so-called from the presence 
 of these saurians. Albeit the station is 700 ft. above sea-level, and miles 
 from any river, alligators infest the region, to the disgust of the local 
 limit ers and the perplexity of the old residents. Tiger-leopards roam the 
 adjacent hills, a myriad plover enliven the plains, antelope are to be had 
 by hunting for them, and ducks innumerable quack through the near-by 
 marshes. 
 
 The run hence to Santa Lucrecia, the terminus of the line, is through a 
 country tropical in every aspect. In this sun-warmed region of amazing 
 vitality and productiveness the earth seems incapable pf holding its 
 w onderful energy in check. The winds dislodge seeds and bits of soil from 
 t in' surface, carry them to the tree-tops or to the exposed ridge of some 
 broad limb, fertilize a hitherto non-productive spot and endow it with 
 bizarre forms of plant life. As the delighted gaze roves through the trees 
 it '-m ounter ' veritable hanging gardens in wdiich strange and exqui- 
 'itdy beautiful orchids thrive and multiply. So dense and so rank is the 
 vigorous undergrowth that many of the more delicate plants are smoth- 
 er* i. or crowded off the ground, and as if to preserve the species to this 
 remarkable locality Nature has thus provided a second story, a kind of 
 B i by Ion i m-garden, wherein are reproduced those plants unable to sus- 
 t in the fierce st ruggle for existence on the lower, or ground floor. Promi- 
 nent among the trees which thrive hereabout is the Melon Zapote or 
 Papaya f'arica papaya) ki*)wn in the U. S. A. as the Pawpaw'. It grows 
 v i. !. i > very prolific, anil attains a height of from 20 to 25 ft. The dark 
 Rf'-en leaves are from 20 to 30 inches long, and they attract attention by 
 clustering at the top of an otherwise leafless trunk. The fruit is about the 
 ^i/c Mud shape of a musk-melon, though longer, and wdth a thinner rind. 
 
 \ • ilk-white juice exudes when a spoon is thrust into the pulp, w'hich is 
 : cllow, agreeably sweet, with many jet-black seeds. The tree begins to 
 
BIRD LIFE 
 
 62. Route . 549 
 
 bear fruit when a year old, and it produces from 20 to 100 melons at a 
 time. Its development in the tropics is so rapid that buds, flowers, and 
 green and ripe fruit are sometimes found on a single plant; a single melon 
 may weigh 20 lbs. It contains considerable pepsin, which is dried and 
 sent to the U. S. A., where it is used as a cure for dyspepsia and for mak- 
 ing different papoid preparations. The trees are well defined as to sex, 
 and where they are cultivated, but one male tree is permitted to grow in 
 a grove of 50 or more females. Fruit and leaves possess the singular 
 property of rendering tough meat tender, and they are employed for this 
 purpose by the natives. When the pulp of the fruit is rubbed over a piece 
 of tough meat the juice attacks the fibre and softens it. A tough 
 chicken, hung in a papaya - tree over night, will be as tender as a Philadel- 
 phia broiler the following morning. 
 
 (The anthropophagous savages of New Guinea, of the Solomon Islands, 
 and other remote regions of the South Pacific Ocean, practise this same 
 custom, and they perhaps did so long before they were brought to the 
 notice of the civilized world. The Papuans and other South Sea Island 
 cannibals wrap the flesh of their human victims (called by the generic 
 term of “Long Pig”) in papaya leaves to make it tender and appetizing. 
 At a cannibalistic feast human tiesn is always served in a papaya leaf, in 
 a small roll about the size of a banana, and the leaf is eaten with the flesh, 
 to aid digestion. The Philippine Islanders hang their tough fowls in 
 papaya trees to render them tender, and they also use the papaya leaves 
 in lieu of soap. In the Island of Formosa young mothers boil raw papayas 
 and eat them with pork, believing that on such a diet they can more 
 liberally nourish their babes. Many of the natives of the Island World of 
 Polynesia know of the curious properties of the papaya tree. It would be 
 interesting to learn whether they gained this knowledge from the early 
 Mexicans or whether these gave the idea to the old-new-world, and if so 
 howl) 
 
 As the train travels southward, penetrating deeper into the region 
 which was long closed for aught but rancheros and occasional travellers, 
 Bird Life becomes more and more prominent. The air seems alive with the 
 feathered jewels which flash to and fro. As the cars move slowly forward 
 in a wave of golden sunshine; as the deep summer-song of a myriad 
 insects reach the ear, and the fragrance of tropical flowers is wafted 
 through the open windows, one can easily imagine one’s self in an old Ken- 
 tucky, or Louisiana, garden where Cardinals, Orioles, and Mockingbirds 
 make of the warm days and balmy, star-lit nights a bit of a terrestrial 
 paradise. A host of familiar and unfamiliar birds can be counted from 
 the windows of the moving car. The Whip-poor-will, Western Mocking- 
 bird, Pileated Warbler, Painted Redstart, Audubon Warbler, Summer 
 Tanager, Virginia Warbler, Blackheaded Grosbeak, Black-Capped Vireo, 
 Boat-Tailed Grackle, Mexican Meadowlark, Wagler Oriole, Red-Eyed 
 Cowbird, Magpie Jay, Swainson Flycatcher, and the Rufous Cuckoo are 
 but some of the many the quick eye may register within a half hour. Among 
 these the lover of melody will also note the Nightingale, known also as 
 the Zenzontle, and Ruisenor, sweetest of all the Mexican songbirds. 
 Abundant in the meadow-lands are the Mourning Dove, Black Phoebe, 
 Mexican Pileated Woodpecker, Yellow-Bellied Trogon, and a host of 
 familiar birds. In the jungle where the great trees support ant-nests as 
 big as barrels, swarms of Red-and-blue-headed Parakeets may be seen 
 clinging to the nests waiting for the unfortunate owners to sally forth and 
 be eaten. A score or more of these chattering feathered sprites will some- 
 times perch in a row along the telegraph wire, and as the train passes, 
 scold it in whatever vocabulary they can command; just as a benchful 
 of naughty children might sauce an inoffensive pedagogue. 
 
 Loons, Grebes and Ducks innumerable dive and wade through the con- 
 tiguous marshes, in the joyous abandon of an unhunted existence. White 
 Pelicans, Mallards, Cinnamon Teal and Ivory-Billed Coots plough the ad- 
 jacent ponds, and as many well-known home birds come within the range 
 of vision one realizes that this is one of the Southern refuges: the tran- 
 quil breeding-place of the myriad storm-driven and man-persecuted 
 feathered friends from the frozen North. To this far sunny South-land 
 of eternal summer, where the natives love them more for their music 
 
550 Rte.63. COATZACOALCOS TO SALINA CRUZ' 
 
 and their beauty than for their flesh and blood-stained feathers, they 
 wing their flight unerringly: secure in the instinct that teaches them 
 th.it wherever dwells the Anglo-Saxon and his alleged civilization, there 
 ar** his enemies and those of his young. 
 
 (The birds of Mexico comprise upwards of 353 species, many of them 
 faiiiet i for their brilliant plumage and singing qualities. In the hot lands 
 the birds are more distinguished for beauty of plumage than melody of 
 voice. The finest songsters haunt the temperate zone.) 
 
 ;;_v> K. Santa Lncrecia (State of Vera Cruz, with a pop. of 1,000), 
 junction of the Ferrocarril Nacional de Tehuantepec, Rte. 63. What 
 t lu re is of the town clusters near the station, which is perched on a high 
 i lufi overlooking the broad Coatzacoalcos River. Rlv. refreshment room. 
 Tne drinking water is to be avoided. Bottled waters andnativebeer (at 
 35 c. may always be had. Travellers who find themselves obliged to 
 pass the night here are stroDgly counselled to demand a mosquito 
 net to guard against mosquitos (Sp. “small flies”) and ether “light 
 militia of the air and earth.” In the absence of a net, rub the face and 
 hands with some pungent essential oil, or with strong brandy in which 
 orange peel l as been allowed to soak. The natives speak a mixture of 
 Spanish and Zapotec (comp. p. 542), and the traveller finds some diffi- 
 culty in understanding them. Coincident with the change in tongue, 
 one notes a change in the bearing of the natives themselves, who wear 
 the shiftless, languid air of the tropics. The alert demeanor of the high- 
 land Mexican has remained behind with the altitude: the Isthmian 
 natives sit about on their hunkers, dawdle and act as if the weight of the 
 entire universe rested on their naked shoulders. Good workmen are 
 scarce and wages are high on account of it. Although many fat cattle 
 browse on the adjacent hills, the owners are too tired to milk them. 
 ( food milk is as scarce as good water, and when a little of the first-named 
 is to be had it costs from 60 to 75 cts. the gallon. Condensed milk takes 
 the place of fresh milk in this wonderfully rich grazing country. 
 
 63. From Coatzacoalcos ( Puerto Mexico) via Santa 
 Lucrecia, Rincon Antonio and Tehuantepec, to 
 Salina Cruz. 
 
 300 Kilom. Ferrocarril Nacional de Tehuantepec (Isthmian Route) 
 2 trains daily in 12 hrs., fare, see p. xxxi. The Hotel de la Companta, in the 
 -ration building, is for the use of employees, but the traveller can obtain 
 lodging and meals. There is also a similar Hotel and Restaurant at Rincon 
 
 Antonio. 
 
 Arrival h7 Sea. Ships come alongside the wharf and land passen- 
 g< r ' within 5 min. walk of any of the hotels. No cabs. Native boys meet 
 trains and will act as porters for luggage; hand-bags 25 c.; 
 trunks 50 c. 
 
 Hotels comp. p. xlvii). Holds Colon, Two Republics, and California , 
 all near together on the main street, on the slope of a hill overlooking 
 the sea. Room only, with one bed, $1.50: with 2 beds, $3. Rooms that 
 do not face the sea are apt to be hot and stuffy. Meals, $1. Coffee and 
 rolls, 50 c. Mineral w’ater or beer, 25 c. a bottle. 
 
 Coatzacoalcos (or Puerto Mexico), State of Vera Cruz, on 
 the Gulf of Mexico, the eastern terminus of the Tehuantepec 
 National Railway, stands at the mouth of the Coatzacoalcos 
 River, which here is wide and deep. The town is an unkempt, 
 sandy place, on the slope of a range of hills — barren toward 
 the sea and green on their inland side — with the beach as its 
 main street. The bay, shaped like a horseshoe, is almost land- 
 locked, with the river flowing in at the bend and passing out 
 to sea between the cusps. The climate is hot, and paludal 
 
TRANS-ISTHMIAN RAILWAY 63. Route. 551 
 
 fevers are not unknown. The local market, the most animated 
 spot in town, is an interesting place, and here one ma.ysee many 
 curious fish brought in from the productive waters of the Gulf, 
 and many bizarre fruits from the mainland. Some of the mar- 
 ket women, who, as a rule, belong to the working class, smoke 
 strong black cigars and appear to enjoy them. Much of the 
 produce is brought from the other side of the bay in small 
 pirogues which the natives and Chinese handle dexterously. 
 The river forms a natural harbor of ample width and of an 
 average depth of 50 ft. The channel is obstructed by a bar 
 about 12 ft. below the surface, and the object of the two con- 
 verging jetties (length about 4,333 ft.), which extend from the 
 mouth of the river to the sea, is to force the river to scour away 
 this bar and prevent its reforming. The rock used in the con- 
 struction of the jetties is from the quarries at Medias Aguas, 
 97 kilom. inland on the rly. The wharves, with a total frontage 
 of 3,433 ft., are equipped with electric cranes which lift mer- 
 chandise out of a ship’s hold and place it on cars through 
 hatches in their roofs. Modern devices are employed to make 
 this and the other terminal ports successful competitors of the 
 Panama Canal. There is a submarine cable station here. 
 
 The Rly. trends due S. and plunges at once into the jungle. The 
 transition from the sandy, wind-swept shore to the cool, fragrant woods 
 is complete and pleasing. The whining call of cat-birds, the squawking 
 of strident -voiced parrots, and the deep monotone of countless insects 
 take the place of skirling winches and ship-board noises. 9 K. Berta. 
 17 K. Calzadas. 28 K. Limones. 30 K. Carmen. The tropical vegetation 
 grows with such vigor in these sun-warmed regions that chemicals are 
 employed to destroy the creepers nearest the rails and thus prevent 
 encroachments. The chemical compound is thrown in a hot, liquid form 
 from a heated tank-car, sprayed by means of a steam-heated atomizer. 
 The application kills all plant life but other arises to replace it so soon 
 that the operation of drenching the right of way must be almost contin- 
 uous, to be permanently effective. We pass little clearings overhung 
 with heavy, white mists, gray wisps of which steal through the tall tree- 
 tops in riband-like bands. The jungle plants flap wet feelers against the 
 cars which move forward through a veritable tunnel of luxuriant foli- 
 age. On the black, oily surface of the creosoted ties are small pools 
 of dew, and tiny rills of moisture trickle down the upright steel rails 
 employed in lieu of wood telegraph poles, which, if planted here, would 
 either sprout or rot. 
 
 37 K. Chinameca. Milk and coffee in old beer bottles are offered for 
 sale by native boys. As a rule those who sell alleged “goodies” at rly. 
 stations are innocent of all ideas of hygiene, and as fever germs sometimes 
 lurk about their homes the unimmune traveller will do well to adopt the 
 rule of rejecting such wayside inducements. 43 K. Jaltipan. 55 K. 
 Velasco. 64 K. Ojapa. 76 K. Almagres. 
 
 87 K. Juile. Point of departure for San Juan Evangelista (29 K. Rly. 
 Ramal de Juile d San J . Evangelista , 3 trains a week, in \ hr.), and for 
 towns on the Papaloapan River ; which are also reached by the steam- 
 boats of the F errocarriles de Vera Cruz , Mexico, Limitada, comp, p 481 . — • 
 97 K. Medias Aguas. 106 K. Tortugas. 117 K. Suchil. The flora of the 
 district through which the train passes is a perpetual delight. Most of 
 the forest trees bear some kind of a beautiful flower, and the splendid 
 orchidaceous and other epiphytic plants which cling to them, present 
 unusually beautiful masses of color. As if to aid in the enchantment, the 
 giant trees which rise in belted splendor above the underbrush, extend 
 
552 Route 63. TROPICAL FORESTS 
 
 great branches canopied and hung with brilliant flowering vines; their 
 attitude recalling the Hindus in the Bombay bazaars as they spread 
 their arms draped in regal silks which they display to the covetous 
 Howadji. Many of the forest patriarchs are almost covered with huge 
 ant-nests and swinging bird nests. The gigantic branches of the wild fig 
 tree ( Ficus carica ) reach a hundred feet in all directions, and the am- 
 bitious convolvuli climbs to the very topmost point to hang its bell- 
 shaped flower within reach of the sun. Many of the trees bear curiously 
 shaped pods, some of which the natives gather and use as pocket re- 
 ceptacles for matches and small coins. The entire district is a wild and 
 surpassingly beautiful tropical hortus; one which reminds the traveller 
 of Peradenia (Ceylon), Buitenzorg (Java) and Pamplemousse in the island 
 of Mauritius. It is allied, in a way, to the splendid gardens of Pera- 
 denia, for there, if one falls asleep in the grass, one is likely to be sucked 
 to death by the myriad horrible and needle-like leeches which infest 
 the place. Here the equally dreaded vampires ( Desmodus rotundus ) 
 take their place, and after nightfall silent lines of these fiendish, Mephis- 
 tophelian creatures fan noiselessly through the dusk, as if in search of 
 some unwary human, lost in the jungle. 
 
 The dripping, glistening, rustling jungle, filled with animal and insect 
 life and intertwined with creeping convolvuli, commands the attention 
 quite as persistently as do the microscopic flies ( rodidores ) w T hich bite all 
 iinglovea hands and bring to the surface of the skin tiny blood-spots 
 and a sting like that of a mosquito. These contumacious little pests 
 are to the tropics what the black flies are to Northern woods, and they 
 render life burdensome unless guarded against. Numerous parrot-beaked 
 Blackbirds enliven the jungle hereabout. Between this station and 
 Santa Lucrecia the quick eye will note many splendid specimens of the 
 Mexican Goshawk; Alex. Goatsuckers and Mex. Caciques — the beau- 
 tiful yellow and black Orioles of the tropics. Their swinging nests hang 
 3 or 4 ft. from the tips of tall branches, swaying in the slightest breeze. 
 In flight the birds flash like brilliant sprites through the jungle and de- 
 light the eye that revels in color. They are usually jet black, with long 
 crests and bright yellow shoulders, lower back and tail, save the two 
 inner feathers. The Mexicans know them as Calandrias ; in the tropics 
 they are as numerous as Barn Swallows or English Sparrows are in the 
 North. Long-tailed Crested Blue Jays, or Magpie Jays, are very numer- 
 ous and are perhaps the most beautiful birds seen in the tropical low- 
 hinds. Their brilliant blue and white forms are graceful in every motion, 
 and with their tall, recurved, fan-like crests, and long, plume-like tails, 
 they resemble Macaws or some of the handsome long-tailed Parrots for 
 which t his Southern country is renowned. A notable feature in the land- 
 scape is the parrot-fruit tree ( Pileu conica). This odd-shaped fruit, which 
 resembles okra pads, is four-sided, of a green color, and grows on a tree 
 entirely devoid of leaves. It is juicy, sticky, and in form resembles a green 
 Parakeet. Evidently mindful of this resemblance, the Parakeets dash 
 to the tree when frightened, scatter, stand upright and remain motion- 
 less. So nearly alike are they to the fruit that a predatory Hawk will some- 
 times fly past a tree on which a score or more of these saucy sprites 
 are standing, apparently unaware of their presence. 
 
 Many glorious Papilios swing through the jungle, and scores of small 
 ami large Iguanas — “those singular Cerastosaurus relics of the Jurassic 
 Age” — make it their home. The flesh of the Iguana is as white and 
 * ' ’ 1 r a young chicken. Their eggs are esteemed by the natives and 
 tl»<- repulsive lizards themselves are eaten by them and relished. This 
 district is also the home of the cacao-bean ( Theobroma cacao) which pro- 
 duees the cocoa of commerce. In many parts of the tropics it is culti- 
 • eed < m '< a i <m[ ; the growing of cacao being one of the most 
 lucrative industries. The trees are planted about four yards apart; about 
 400 to the acre. They grow luxuriantly and thrive best at an altitude 
 not exceeding 2,000 ft. The cacao grows in large pods, containing from 
 1> to 25 beans each, on trees from 10 to 12 ft. high. Mexico possesses 
 manv chocolate factories, and the delicious product is made from the 
 eai ao-beans. A moist at mosphere with a temperature ranging from 
 7tP to 90° Fahr., shade and good drainage are necessary to the success- 
 
Wild Animals. RINCON ANTONIO 68. Route. 553 
 
 ful cultivation of the plants. These are the reverse of hardy, and they 
 are always planted under the protecting branches of some taller tree, 
 thus safeguarding them against the too fierce rays of a tropical sun. 
 When the pods are ripe — two crops a year are generally gathered — 
 they are skilfully severed from the branches, and are then left on the 
 ground for a day or two, before being cut open. When the seeds are taken 
 out they are sweated, cured and shipped to the chocolate factories. 
 
 The Coca (Erythroxylon coca) , which is not to be confounded with the 
 above, also grows here. It is a narcotic and stimulant plant, the leaves 
 of which are used by the natives of Brazil, Bolivia and Peru. “Its home 
 is in the sultry valleys of the eastern slopes of the Peruvian and Bolivian 
 Andes. The shrub bears a foliage of lustrous green and white flowers 
 ripening into small scarlet berries. When the leaves are brittle enough 
 to break upon being bent', they are stripped from the plant, dried in 
 the sun, and packed in sacks. No record exists of its first discovery, but 
 it was used in the temples of the Incas, when Pizarro invaded Peru, and 
 the priests chewed coca while performing their rites.” It is much used 
 by the Mexican Indians, and this, with certain other stimulant plants 
 accounts, perchance, for their notable powers of endurance in certain 
 cases. Here also thrive the vanilla bean, rubber, rice, sugar-cane, 
 cochineal, indigo, dyewoods, balsams, resins, and many varnish-making 
 gums. From the dense forests hereabout the Spaniards drew their 
 timber for ship-building. In these tropical woodlands there dwell also 
 the Collared Peccary, the Mexican Deer, the Black-Faced Brocket, Tapir, 
 Mexican Spermophile, Jaguar, Tiger-Cat or Ocelot, Yaguarondi Cat, 
 Nine-Banded Armadillo, White-Nosed Coati Mondi, Ring-Tailed Cat 
 and many lesser mammals. In the foothills of the state of Oaxaca, 
 through which the line runs, Black Bear are more or less plentiful, and 
 from the hills to the sea range the Guatemalan Gray Fox, the Red- 
 Bellied Ground Squirrel, several unidentified species of Flying Squirrels, 
 the Great-Tailed Skunk, etc., and Ducks, Loons, Grebe, Geese and Wild- 
 Turkeys. 
 
 127 K. Santa Lucreda. Junction of the Ferrocarril Vera Cruz al 
 Istmo (comp. p. 544). The train crosses a fine steel bridge. Groups of 
 women and children bathe in the stream below and use it as a laundry. 
 The track describes a wide curve and skirts the river bank for some dis- 
 tance. We pass into a jungle dotted with tall palms whose wind-whipped 
 leaves proclaim them to be within reach of the breeze which blows 
 up from the (177 Kilom.) Pacific Ocean. Clusters of tall pampas grass and 
 feathery-topped bamboos thrive in the contiguous morasses. Here- 
 about the natives have adopted the Malay custom of building their 
 houses on stilts, on and near the river bank: the open-air stables be- 
 neath serve for the kine, swine and domestic fowls. Alligators appre- 
 ciate this and they not infrequently find their way hither from the more 
 tropical reaches of the river. Magnificent blue butterflies, the omni- 
 present convolvuli, and the bulky fruit of the melon-zapote (p. 548) are 
 in evidence almost constantly. The deep jungle patches are enlivened by 
 bunches of brilliant berries, by flowers, and by a species of low, lily-like 
 palm whose underleaves show silver tints as they wave and flutter in 
 the breeze. 135 K. Cardenas. 144 K. JJbero. 164 K. Paso de Buques. 
 166 K. Palomares. 1 77 K. Sarabi. 187 K. Mogone. We enter a fine canon 
 through which brawls and tumbles a stream of remarkably clear, trans- 
 parent water. The ravine (best view from the right) is about 5 kilom. 
 long, and it serves as a dividing-line between the tropical country through 
 which we have just passed and the grassy upland ahead. The transition, 
 as we emerge from the gorge, is very striking. Blue hills cut the distant 
 sky-line, no jungle or marshlands are to be seen, and the air carries a 
 tang of salt and of highland freshness. 196 K. Ives. 
 
 204 K. Rincon Antonio (sometimes called Matias Romero). The 
 working headquarters of the rly. It is a rly. town (pop. about 2,500), but 
 a few years old, and established here because of the healthfulness of the 
 locality. The shops are immediately across the track from the station 
 building, and on the second floor of this are the company offices. The 
 homes of the officials and of the workmen (chiefly English and Ameri- 
 cans) are perched on the surrounding hills. Hard by is a commodious 
 
554 Rou> 63. TEHUANTEPEC CITY 
 
 club-house to which travellers with credentials are welcome. Opposite 
 rile rear of the station, is the business section, comprising one street 
 flanked by a row of squat houses. The company operates an hotel in the 
 station building: rooms SI to S3. The restaurant is under separate man- 
 agement; meals SI. American newspapers, magazines, post-cards and 
 travellers’ requisites at the stand of the Sonora News Company within 
 the station. 
 
 Seven miles distant, beyond the hills, is the Indian Village of San 
 Juan, the inhabitants of which are called San Juaneros. Though an at- 
 tractive people physically, many of them are afflicted with leprous 
 tendencies, and some are almost covered with the whitish spots of that 
 dread disease. The market produce sold in Rincon Antonio is brought 
 in by the Indian women of San J uan. They trot the fourteen miles daily 
 as though it were only a pleasant walk. 
 
 228 K. Chivela Pass, the highest point (730 ft.) on the line. The train 
 begins its descent to the Pacific, 76 K. distant. The track winds in and 
 out among the hills, and at times we get fine views of the lowlands. For 
 a few miles the descent is abrupt with a succession of reverse curves and 
 toboggan-like inclines. Instead of. the red. earth of the jungle the land 
 shows light brown mineralized soil in which huge stones and splendid 
 specimens of organ cacti are the predominant features. In many places 
 t lie wind-swept hills are bare of vegetation, and out-croppings of marble 
 show on their precipitous sides. Deep barrancas, threaded by rivulets 
 which become roaring torrents in the rainy season, are crossed and we 
 soon pass through the only tunnel on the line. Strong gusts of sea air 
 sweep up through the canons, and when the train emerges on some ele- 
 vated and exposed plateau the hurtling sea-breeze (which blows almost 
 constantly here) strikes it with force and freshness. ^238 K. Mena. 244 
 K. Rio Verde. 255 K. Empalme. 256 K. San Geronimo. Junction of 
 the Ferrocarril Pan- Americano (Rte. 64, p. 558). 266 K. Comitancillo. 
 275 K. Jordan. 281 K. Piedra. 
 
 285 K. Tehuantepec, pop. 10,400 (125 ft.), in a wide gorge 
 limited on the E. and W. by the hills of La Cueva, Santa Maria, 
 Tigre, Padre Lopez, and La Vixana. The train runs for some 
 distance through the principal street of the town, which is 
 finely situated on a great bend of the Tehuantepec River. 
 
 Hotels (comp, p.xlvii). Hotel Europa, $2.50 Am. PI. American cook- 
 ing and management. — Hotel del Globo , $2.50 Am. PI. French cooking and 
 management. Roth hotels are well spoken of, and both are within 5 min. 
 walk of the station. Hand-bags and trunks by cargador (comp. p. lii), 
 25 c. Two or more trunks in a cart, inclusive charge, 50 c. 
 
 Baths (comp. p. lii). Espiridion and Gomez y Evaristo Pinon , hard 
 by the hotels: 25 and 50 c. 
 
 Tehuantepec (Hill of the Tehuanas or Tehuantepecanos), 
 second city of the state of Oaxaca, 21 M. from the port of 
 Salina C ruz , is the most picturesque town on the isthmus and 
 Iho stronghold of the original inhabitants of this region. It is 
 celebrated for its hot-springs, earthquakes and handsome 
 women. For some unknown cause it is the centre of many 
 seismic disturbances. Scientists attribute them to a desire on 
 the part of Nature to re-establish the equilibrium of the cordil- 
 lera - at Ihe great depression occupied by the isthmus. The 
 temblor of 1S97 almost demolished the town, and the eruption 
 of Santo Maria in 1902 covered the roofs of the houses with a 
 white volcanic ash. 
 
 The traveller is surprised into admiration of the superb symmetry 
 and oftentimes striking beauty of the women, who form the bulk of the 
 
TEHUANTEPEC CITY 63. Route . 555 
 
 population. The majority of the males are immigrants from adjoining 
 states and they are inferior to the women. The Tehuana men were almost 
 all killed in the internecine struggles which followed the war for inde- 
 pendence, and it is said that the present proportion of females to males 
 is 5 to 1. The racial and facial characteristics of the women are more 
 noticeable, because as a rule they are pure bloods. They are thrifty, 
 animated and more enterprising than the men. The relative scarcity of 
 males makes individuals of more importance than would be the case if 
 the sexes were equal in numbers, and the passionate and jealous nature 
 of the women is perhaps accentuated by this minority. A striking char- 
 acteristic is their commercial enterprise; many of them engage in busi- 
 ness and adorn themselves with the proceeds of their energy. Like the 
 Burmese women, they are the workers and the enterprising ones. They 
 bear a stronger resemblance to Burmese than to Mexicans, and their 
 customs and dress bear out the comparison. The upper part of their 
 daily costume is an Oriental-looking jacket, cut very low at the neck 
 with short sleeves; usually made of some brilliant cloth trimmed with 
 yellow or gold braid. It flows loose at the waist and shows a strip of skin 
 there, as well as every curve of the figure. The skirt is a replica of the 
 Malay and Burmese sarong ; a loop of cloth several yards long, bordered 
 at the hem with some bright color, brought snug around the hips and 
 tucked in at the waist line. Sandals, and bright red or yellow silk ker- 
 chiefs wound coquettishly around the head, turban-wise, complete a 
 very piquant costume. They are true Orientals in their fondness for 
 brilliant colors, and they delight to wear petticoats of a hue that would 
 excite the envy of a macaw. The huipil (a Nahoa name for an embroid- 
 ered chemise or waist), an elaborate lace affair something like an exag- 
 gerated Elizabethan ruff, is worn on special occasions and adds to their 
 unquestioned attractiveness. When the traveller sees this singular head- 
 dress on a pretty Tehuana girl, he thinks of some frilled enchantress from 
 an unknown fairyland. The huipil is sometimes worn hanging down the 
 back, and then it recalls the trailing eagle-plumes or the war panoply of 
 a Comanche chief. 
 
 These olive-skinned queens of the tropics possess beautiful sloe-black 
 eyes, superb teeth and luxuriant black hair. They are much addicted 
 to wearing gold jewellery (preferably American $20 gold pieces), and a 
 barefoot houri may be seen wearing a necklace worth thousands of dol- 
 lars. They bathe often and are clean. Many of the women smoke and 
 some of the children are almost weaned on tobacco fumes. Like certain 
 other native mothers, they nurse their youngsters until they are 3 or 4 
 years old, and it is no uncommon sight to see a child descend from its 
 mother’s knee, after a lacteal repast, repair to an easy chair, light a cigar- 
 ette and enjoy an after-dinner smoke. Children are sometimes seen 
 puffing away at a cigar almost as fat as their own little legs. Pulque, the 
 curse of the highlands, is unknown here, and the fine climate seems to 
 counteract the effects of the vice of smoking. Many of the men twist 
 silk handkerchiefs jauntily about their heads, and this custom imparts a 
 gay and oriental aspect to the town. Few places in Mexico afford more 
 picturesque or attractive scenes than Tehuantepec on Sundays or dias 
 de fiesta. The town usually is flooded with tropical sunshine, the rounded 
 church domes rise toward a faultless blue sky, and the Spanish-Moorish 
 houses, with flower embowered patios and balconies, enhance the charm. 
 When the women appear in all their grace of form and dress — for they 
 are developed like Venuses and would make incomparable models for 
 artists — the effect is wholly beguiling; a felicitous blend of southern 
 Spain, of the Orient, of Mexico, and the lotus-eating tropics. The cur- 
 rent language is Zapotec or Tehuana; the pure-blood natives are sup- 
 posed to be the descendants of the once powerful Zapotecs, who built 
 the now ruined palaces of Mitla (p. 537). 
 
 A pretty shaded plaza occupies the centre of the town, and facing it 
 is the Palacio Municipal, a white building with many supporting col- 
 umns. T ehuantepec is the seat of a bishopric, and the Catholic Church 
 is in evidence. None of the half score or more churches contain 
 aught to interest the traveller. The largest, La Iglesia de Santo Domingo , 
 has suffered severely from earthquakes. The carcel dates from 1530. 
 
556 Route 63. 
 
 SAUNA CRUZ 
 
 One of the sights of the town is the old fortress which was the headquar- 
 ter' of General Porfirio Diaz, when he fought through this region during 
 the war of the French Intervention. Hard by the town, are the Hot- 
 Springs. famed locally for their efficacy in rheumatic and allied ailments. 
 The Ruins of Guerenguela (horse and guide necessary) lie in the midst 
 of a country dotted with henequen plants. Giant trees grow from the 
 roofs of ruinous stone buildings whose origin is lost in the misty past. 
 The trip to the ruins (consult the hotel manager) is a bit wearisome and 
 will scarcely repay the trouble, time or expense. The jicaras (gourds) 
 made at Tehuantepec are something like the Uruapan ware (p. 229) and 
 make desirable souvenirs. 
 
 On the outskirts of the town the rly. crosses a long steel 
 bridge spanning the Tehuantepec River. At flood time, the 
 waters reach almost to the rail. Fine view up and down stream 
 and a good retrospective vista of the town. 291 K. Pearson. 
 The train crosses a bleak and sandy region, eternally whipped 
 by a strong sea breeze, and then winds through a little valley 
 at the base of high hills. 304 K. Salina Cruz, see below. 
 
 Salina Cruz. Arrival. The i Hotel Salina Cruz, $4 Am. PL; rooms only 
 S1-S2. is directly across the street to the r. of the station. Handbags 
 i2 c. Trunks 25 c. each. If the traveller wishes his luggage transferred 
 to the quay he should strike a bargain with the cargadcr (comp. p. liifr). 
 Hot' ! T ■ rminal, 3 squares from the station; American, S3 to $4, Am. PL 
 
 Steamships of the Pacific Mail S. S. Co. ( Guzman & Xymp. Agts.), 
 the Mexican States Line Baldomero Jimenez, agerde ), and the Mexican 
 Navigation Co. Sa njurjo, Morreres & Co., agentes), make Salina Cruz a 
 regular port of call. For approximate sailing dates consult the agents of 
 the lines at Salina Cruz or Mexico City. The inner harbor, where still water 
 usually prevails, is artificial, and ships ride 30 ft. above what was formerly 
 t he < -11 town. The basin is protected on the seaward side by blocks of con- 
 crete 6 by 1 3 by 17 metres, the bottoms of which 3re 40 ft. below the sur- 
 face. A \v;Ji of rubble faced with cement protects these blocks from the 
 sea. The entrance to the inner harbor is about 90 ft. wide and is 
 s> mned by two swing biidges. Freight vessels come alongside the wharf, 
 e! trie cranes lift their cargoes and transfer them to waiting cars, and 
 i f' -re the ships are loaded again their discharged cargoes are far on their 
 v a v to. or are being unloaded at, Coatzacoalcos, for their journey on the 
 At Lint ic Ocean. The fine breakwaters ( rompeoias ) which form the outer 
 L ir; < -r re laid on a rubble foundation, 10 ft. below 7 lowest tidewater. 
 The iepth of the walls, which are surmounted by concrete parapets IS 
 ft v i it-, i about 60 ft. The width between the two converging points 
 is about 000 ft. These giant arms enclose a harbor space of about 20 su- 
 ; f i il a- res. The E. rompeoias is about 1 kilom. long; the W. about 
 1 - : a kilo:n. The thousands of tons of blue limestone used in their con- 
 stru« uir.n carne from the Mirtequilla quarries. 30 kilom. inland on the 
 rh. liif. The Port Works were constructed by the English contracting 
 firm of S. Pearson Jk Son, Ltd. 
 
 Salina Cruz, terminus of the Trans-Isthmian Railway on 
 the Golfo de Tehuantepec , state of Oaxaca, pop. about 5,000 
 (of a floating character), lies in a semi-circular or ovaliform 
 ha -in formed by bare, brown hills and the sea. As one stands 
 on the rly. station platform, and looks back at the hills around 
 which the train passes, they present an apparently unbroken 
 front, pierced by neither highway nor railway. The wide, 
 sandy streets are much patronized bv whirlwinds. The town is 
 swept almost continuously by a stiff ocean breeze which blows 
 from the sea during the day and returns at night. It serves 
 
ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC 63. Rte. 557 
 
 the purpose of effectively ridding the exposed spots of mos- 
 quitoes, which here nurse a devouring affection for the travel- 
 ler. The fine sand, which rides on the wind and bombards 
 every visible thing in the town, is more or less trying to the 
 uninitiated. It slips under the cover of one’s watch, drifts into 
 fountain pens, sifts into pockets, and produces a constant 
 gritty taste in the mouth. The place resembles a western 
 frontier town in transition, and unless one be interested in the 
 splendid Port Works or the broad Pacific ocean, whose waves 
 rush up in glass-like sheets on the sandy beach, it offers no- 
 thing of particular interest to the stranger. 
 
 History. El Istmo de Tehuantepec, in the humid tropic zone of south- 
 ern Mexico, which stretches across the states of Vera Cruz and Oaxaca , 
 7,000 ft. below the great Mex. table-land, and along the narrowest part 
 of the Repub., with a trend from N. to S., and which represents one of the 
 shortest transcontinental routes in America, came into history during a 
 conversation between Montezuma II and Herndn Cortes, in which the 
 latter asked the monarch where his vassals secured so much of the pre- 
 cious gold: Montezuma named several places, among them the region 
 which lies contiguous to the old city of Tehuantepec. Soon thereafter 
 (1522) Cortes sent Pizarro (the future conqueror of Peru) and several of 
 his soldiers on an exploring expedition through the Isthmian district. 
 Pizarro returned not on^ with gold, but with information relating to the 
 proximity of a great ocean, discovered afterward by Vasco Nunez _ de 
 Bhlboa and named the Pacifico (calm). A second expedition under Diego 
 de Ordaz confirmed Pizarro' s report. After the fall of Tenochtitldn a third 
 party was dispatched under the captaincy of Francisco de Orozco : the 
 object was to find the great ocean, locate the gold mines, and open a road 
 through southern Mexico to the Gulf. Orozco reported the territory as 
 being so very rich and attractive that Cortes, on his memorable expedi- 
 tion to Honduras (in 1524), visited the region himself. At the request of 
 Cortes the Spanish emperor made him a grant of land in that region, and 
 with it he conferred upon Cortes the title of Marquis. Cortes was known 
 thereafter as the Marquis of the Valley (of Oaxaca) and the land was held 
 by his descendants until comparatively recent times. This grant included 
 22 towns and some 23,000 vassals, including their lands and subordinate 
 hamlets, civil and criminal jurisdiction, offices and rentals, and with full 
 power to dispose thereof according to his pleasure and that of his heirs. 
 It is curious to note that the land passed into the hands of the Real 
 Estate Co. of Mexico in 1908. The cattle on the haciendas are still 
 branded with the cross of Santiago (patron of the Spaniards) used in the 
 days of the Conquest. The original grant is now divided into three 
 haciendas: La Venta, Chicapa, and Tarifa, and they are still known as 
 Las Marquesadas — estates of the Marquis. 
 
 The Crown policy was unfavorable to the development of colonial trade 
 during the Spanish domination of Mexico, but despite this, several sur- 
 veys for an interoceanic route across the Isthmus were made — the best 
 among the early ones during the reign of Felipe II, and later, of Charles 
 III. In 1774 the Viceroy, Antonio M . de Bucareli, sent the engineer, 
 Agustin Cramer (then governor of the Castle of San Juan de XJlua, at 
 Vera Cruz), to survey the territory. He was the first, it is said, to pro- 
 claim the feasibility of a canal across this neck of the continent. In 1824 
 the Government of the Federal District sent Colonel Juan deObregozo , and 
 the State Government of Vera Cruz appointed Don Tadeo Ortiz to act con- 
 jointly and to trace out a plan for rendering the Coatzacoalcos River 
 navigable; the idea being to deepen it to its junction with the Mala - 
 tengo River, thence construct a carriage road to the nearest point on the 
 Pacific coast. The commissioners made their report and the project was 
 abandoned. Soon thereafter American engineers began to take note of 
 this region — the narrowest portion of the continent north of Panama — 
 and among the great engineering minds was that of Captain J . B. Eads , 
 
558 Rte, 64 . SAN GERONIMO TO GUATEMALA 
 
 who at one time visited England for the purpose of securing capital to 
 build his much discussed Tehuantepec Ship Railway. After many tribu- 
 lations the present transcontinental (and transcendental) railway was 
 formally opened for traffic Jan. 23, 1907, and President Porfirio Diaz , 
 before the representatives of 20 foreign nations, gave the signal for start- 
 ing the great electric crane that raised 15 bags of sugar from the hold of 
 the Steamship Arizona, at Salina Cruz. Three silver keys with gold orna- 
 mentation were used in the official opening of the Ports of Salina Cruz 
 anil Coatzacoalcos — which latter was rechristened Puerto Mexico, in 
 honor of the occasion. Even blase world travellers find it interesting to be 
 able to breakfast on a veranda overlooking the quiet Gulf of Mexico at 
 Coatzacoalcos , and on the evening of the same day dine within sound of 
 the surf which dashes upon the shingly beach of the Pacific Ocean. 
 
 64. From San Geronimo to the Guatemalan Frontier. 
 
 PAN-AMERICAN RAILWAY. 
 
 4.5S Kilom. One train daily from Gamboa station, at S. Geronimo , 
 1 Kilom. N. of the Tehuantepec National Station. The rly. was com- 
 pleted to the Guatemala border in 1908, and, owing to its newness, the 
 present running time is longer than it will be when all the bridges are in 
 petition and the road-bed perfected. The management issues new time- 
 cards to suit the exigencies of improved conditions, and the traveller is 
 advised to write to the headquarters of the rly. at San Geronimo, state of 
 Oaxaca . Mexico, for late information relating to arrival and departure of 
 trains, fares, etc. For information relating to rly. connections between 
 Mexiro City and San Geronimo, comp, route 52, p. 484, rte. 62, p. 544, and 
 rt e. 63. p. 550. The rly. follows the contour of the coast of the Pacific Ocean 
 ( fine views at certain points) and trends in a southerly and south-easterly 
 direction, traversing a marvellously rich (and practically undeveloped) 
 country (State of Chiapas) characterized by dense forests, commanding 
 mountains (some of them snow-capped) and plains almost as level as a 
 Kansas prairie. From the forests (rich in precious woods) come the mahog- 
 any ties which are a unique feature of the rly. The jungles produce rare 
 and priceless orchids (comp. p. 564), gums and resins, rubber, cabinet- 
 woo'ls dye-woods, cacao, and a wealth of tropical and sub-tropical pro- 
 duct s ; while on the plains are vast fields of sugar-cane and henequen, and 
 potrero s. or stock-farms — one of the latter, the Guadalupe Hacienda, 
 comprising upward of 62,000 acres. Many rivers are crossed — some of 
 them on fine granite bridges. The line will eventually form a link in the 
 vast chain 01 railways stretching from the northernmost part of the 
 1'nit • 1 St it es to the Argentine in South America. (It is estimated that 
 about 3.600 miles must yet be built, before this project can be realized.) 
 The Pan-American follows the old Camino Real, or royal highway, built 
 bv t he Spaniards soon after the Conquest, to connect the Isthmian city of 
 Tehuantepec with Central America. 
 
 San Geronimo (p. 554). The first important town on the Pan-American 
 rly. is 
 
 17 K. Juchitan (Hold del Faro, near the station: $2 to S2.50 Am. PI.), 
 an ancient town of 16.000 inhab. in the centre of a district of the same 
 name. There are usually about 6.000 soldiers of the southern detachment 
 oi ' he national army garrisoned here, and the place is a sort of supply 
 d< p f for many miles of surrounding country. Great quantities of salt 
 m the I goons bordering the ocean, are shipped hence, and 
 the industry b growing. 37 K. Union Hidalgo (pop. 1,500), point of depar- 
 ture for the sometime estate known as La Marquesada of Hernando 
 Cort. s. and referred to at p. 557. The land in the vicinity is amazingly 
 rich and productive, and the sugar produced on the estate ranks as the 
 tinea of the region. Certain of the old buildings (erected by the order of 
 Cortt m 1530) still stand. The present owner of the hacienda. SenorJose 
 M aquro, welcomes and is courteous to visitors. The rly. traverses a fine 
 but broken region, and soon enters the foothills of the coast range ( Sierra 
 
PAN-AMERICAN RLY. 64 . Route . 559 
 
 Madre). We get entrancing views of the ocean (on the r.). Wide lagunas 
 with many water-fowl. 62 K. Cerro Loco , starting-point for the near-by 
 town (pop. 6,000) of Niltepec, on the river of the same name. We pass the 
 (unimportant) stations of 73 K. Zopilote and 76 K. Ostuta Tanque. We 
 cross the Ostuta River on the longest bridge (735 ft.) on the line. 81 K. 
 Reforma. Six Kilom. to the S. is Ixthuatan (pop. 1,500) whence quantities 
 of cured fish are shipped during the season. Sixteen Kilom. to the north- 
 ward lies Zanatepec, a pretty town which calls for no special mention. 
 The rly. traverses a fertile valley devoted to the cultivation of Indian 
 corn. The rich soil, watered by frequent rains and warmed by a sempi- 
 ternal sun, produces bountifully, and one crop follows another as fast as 
 it can be sown and the harvest reaped. Winter is unknown, plant life 
 grows with almost unexampled vigor, and summer is eternal. We pass 
 the (nondescript) stations of 89 K. San Nicolas and 98 K. Las Anonas. 
 
 113 K. Chahuites. A short distance toward the N., in the centre of a 
 rich valley, is the town of Tapana , with 2,000 inhab. At Kilom. 120 we 
 enter the vast estate of the Guadalupe Hacienda; many of the 62,000 
 acres are devoted to stock-raising. From this point comes some of the 
 fine granite used in the bridge construction of the rly., and many of the 
 mahogany ties used along the line. Considerable dye-wood ( palo de 
 Brazil) is shipped hence. 123 K. Guadalupe. 132 K. Jose Mora. 142 K. 
 Aurora , shipping point for the products of the beautiful and fertile 
 Cintalapa Valley , perhaps the richest section contiguous to the rly. The 
 henequen fibre (p. 583) of the Santa Catalina Hacienda (which lies in the 
 valley) ranks in quality with the celebrated productions of Yucatan 
 (p. 572). The town of Cintalapa is about 65 kilom. from Aurora station. 
 Conveyances can be arranged for with the station agent. 152 K. Jalisco 
 is linked to the town of Tuxtla Gutierrez (p. 568) by a government wagon- 
 road 140 kilom. long. (Fare by stage from Jalisco to T. Gutierrez $20.) 
 Jalisco is usually the point of departure for the towns of Chiapas , San 
 Cristobal las Casas (p. 566) and Comitdn (p. 565). 
 
 175 K. Tonald, a dainty town of cleanly whitewashed, tile-roofed 
 houses, nestling at the base of the mts., and recalling, in. its general ap- 
 pearance, certain Swiss villages. In the pretty plaza facing the Palacio 
 Municipal is an immense Pochote, or “Cotton Tree,” which shades the 
 entire square. Beneath it cluster the market booths wherefrom is sold the 
 produce which supplies the 8,000 inhabitants of the place. The town is 
 one of the most important of the region and contains a number of banks 
 and commercial houses. In the mts. (about 3 hrs. on foot) behind the 
 town are the ruins of an ancient city which Prof. Hewitt (of the Smithson- 
 ian Institution) believes once formed a link between the Casas Grandes 
 (p. 54) of Chihuahua , the ancient Mixtec Palaces (p. 537) of Oaxaca and 
 the ruins of Yucatan (p. 580). A stone in one of the huge walls, or pare- 
 dones, some 15 ft. above the surface of the ground, is estimated to weigh 
 at least 10 tons. How so large a stone was rolled up the mountain and 
 placed in its position one can only conjecture. No trace of the inhabitants 
 of this silent city can be found, and history contains no record of them. 
 The ruins perhaps antedate the Conquest. The region roundabout evi- 
 dently supported a vast population in the dim ages of the past.. 
 
 For 200 Kilom. southward from Tonald the rly. traverses a rich fruit 
 region, where the fertility of the soil has made work unnecessary, and 
 where the natives dwell in a sort of happy summer dreamland ; unmindful 
 of the flight of time, and disdaining to develop the wonderful resources 
 with which Nature has endowed the land. Some of the finest rubber, the 
 best tobacco and the choicest coffee and cacao come from this district. 
 The Spanish cedars ( cedros ) of the forests produce magnificent lumber 
 that cuts up into lengths of 50 ft. or more, beside a host of fine woods 
 that fall and decay for the lack of arms to prepare them for the market. 
 Between Tonala and (374 K.) Huixtla , there are many towns, but few 
 of them are of any importance. (263 K.) Pijijiapam , (311 K.) Mapaste- 
 pec , and (339 K.) Escuintla (Aztec, dog) loom large on the map, and al- 
 though nestling in beautiful tropical surroundings, they lack energy and 
 are decadent. Huixtla is a shipping point for the many coffee fincas (cafe- 
 tales) oi the immediate vicinity. Between Huixtla and Tapachula the line 
 crosses a grazing country where considerable stock is raised and shipped 
 
560 Route 65. 
 
 STATE OF TABASCO 
 
 to Guatemalan towns. Guatemalan money is in evidence in this re- 
 gi< >n . and it passes current just as does American money along the North- 
 ern frontier of the Republic. 
 
 416 K Tapachula. with a handsome tropical alameda , stands at the 
 base of the fine Taconak volcano (p. 563). Southward toward the Guate- 
 mala boun dary are two equally commanding volcanoes: TlacomuLco and 
 S :vta Maria — the latter subject to violent outbursts. The last of these 
 occurred in 1903, destroying a number of houses and covering the sur- 
 rouu ing country with ashes several inches deep. From Tapachula the 
 rly. line turns sharply to the right and leads to the near-by port of San 
 B ’ A good horse will carry the traveller from Tapachida, across the 
 Suchiate River and the Southern boundary line of the Kepub.,to the rly. 
 line in Guatemala (40 kiloms.) in a day. Guatemala City- is then 140 K. 
 distant. 
 
 65. State of Tabasco. 
 
 The Gulf Coast State of Tabasco (an Indian term signifying “damp 
 earth”), with an area of 26,094 kilom. and a population of 160,000, is 
 bounded on the N. by the Gulf of Mexico, on the E. by Campeche, on the 
 S. and S.-E. by Chiapas and the Republic of Guatemala and on the W. 
 by Vera Cruz. There are no capes, bays or sheltered harbors along the 
 coast which has an extension of 190 kiloms.), and it is low and densely 
 wooded, but vessels find anchorage in the mouths of the rivers, behind 
 the bars usually formed by them at their estuaries. There are many 
 rivers, the state being noted as the best watered of all the Mexican pos- 
 sessions. The largest is the Usumacinta , a noble river 800 kiloms. long 
 an . navigable for 300 kiloms. from its mouth. The second largest stream 
 is the Grijalva , which is formed by the confluence of the Mexcalapa and 
 the Tacotalpa . Minor streams abound and they drain a magnificently 
 wooded and very fertile region. The chief products are cacao, sugar- 
 cane, coffee, tobacco, rubber, pepper, vanilla, a myriad choice tropical 
 fr and an exceptionally long list of splendid cabinet and dye-woods, 
 prominent- among them the mahogany and the log- wood tree (p. 569). 
 Ci.ii it-cam is produced and exported in large quantities. It is estimated 
 that tl - state which is sparsely inhabited and but little explored) con- 
 tains 125 haciendas for the cultivation of the cacao-bean: S coffee plan- 
 t at ions, 44 sugar-cane plantations, 60 for the cultivation of cereals, 12 
 for tobacco, and 125 cattle ranchos. Rum to the value of $250,000, log- 
 wo< : worth $75,000, $2,000,000 of cacao, $150,000 of coffee, $75,000 
 of tobacco, and $300,000 worth of chicle are annually exported. The 
 tobacro from the HuimanguiUo District ranks among the best in the 
 Repub. The Climate is healthy, albeit malarial fevers are somewhat 
 c on. The Fauna is unusually extensive and comprises the tiger, tiger- 
 cat. puma, porcupine, ant-bear, monkey, tapir, fox, armadillo, wild-boar, 
 d» • t . :.n \ so forth. These animals are rarely hunted.^ The rivers swarm 
 with fish and the woods are alive with brilliant tropical birds. 
 
 San Juan Bautista (St. John the Baptist), capital of the 
 State of Tabasco, on the S. shore of the Gulf of Mexico, with a 
 population of 10,600, was founded in 1598 under the name 
 of Villa FclijX' II. Later the name was changed to Villa H cr- 
 r?; >.<a , — beaut if ul town, — and in 1S26 to its present title. The 
 Indian name for it was Tabasco. It stands on a commanding 
 site on the margin of the fine Rio Grijalva , on alluvial soil with 
 a >ub-stratum of stone. The region is celebrated as the first 
 spot on which Cort/s put foot (March 25, 1519) on Mexican 
 soil . M uch of the foreign commerce of the state is done through 
 this port. 
 
 Hotels imp. p. xlvii). Hotel Juarez, on the Catte Juarez. — Hot A La 
 Gahfm. First 1 c. dc Grijalva — Hotel Zaragoza, Second .4 re. Grijalva. 
 
 $5 Am. PL — Banks: Banco de Tabasco. 
 
HISTORY OF TABASCO 65. Route. 561 
 
 Steamships : Los Vapores Correos Mexicanos (known also as Com - 
 pahia de Navegacion en los Rios Grijalva , U sumacinta y Palizada), oper- 
 ate boats on the rivers mentioned and convey passengers to Frontera , 
 Jonuta, Amatitan , Montecristo (point of departure for the Ruins of Pa - 
 lenque, p. 566), Balancan , Tenosique, and other points. For sailing dates 
 and other information, write or apply to P. Valenzuela, Hijos y Compafda, 
 at San Juan Bautista. 
 
 Tram-cars connect the town with several suburban places — each a 
 veritable tropical hortus. 
 
 The Cathedral dates from 1614. The money for its erection, some 
 $250,000, was subscribed by the King of Spain, the residents of the town, 
 and certain Indians of the neighborhood. The much venerated image 
 of the Virgen de la Victoria , called Nuestra Sehora de la Conquista , dates 
 from the first Conquest (in 1519) by Hernan Cortes. There are two minor 
 churches, a Palacio Legislativo, and a handsome theatre. 
 
 The Rubber-Country begins a few miles out of San Juan Bautista and 
 extends in an almost unbroken line to the Guatemalan frontier. Some 
 of the trees are magnificent specimens, measuring 6 ft. or more in 
 girth, and producing on an average of 10 gallons (about 2 lbs. of rubber) 
 of milk each a year. Some of the haciendas possess upward of 50,000 
 rubber trees. These are usually planted from 12 to 30 ft. apart, with 
 cacao or coffee trees between. The trees mature at about 12 years of 
 age and thenceforth they produce, where carefully cultivated and 
 watched, about i lb. of rubber a year. (They will produce more if per- 
 mitted to, but the over-production is not good for them.) The rubber 
 district is one of extreme beauty. The rainfall is almost continuous and 
 the region is amazingly rich and very tropical. The hacendados are hos- 
 pitable to a fault and no traveller ever wants for bed or board. As a rule 
 the country is inaccessible to wheeled vehicles. Travellers must traverse 
 the region on horseback. For further information under this head, con- 
 sult Geographical and Statistical Notes on Mexico, by Matias Romero. 
 
 History. “ Sailing from the Island of Cozomul (March 4, 1519) 
 Cortes trimmed his course along the coast of Yucatan. He doubled Cape 
 Catoche, and with flowing sheets swept down the broad bay of Cam- 
 peachy, fringed with the rich dye-woods which have since furnished so 
 important an article of commerce to Europe. He passed Potonchan, 
 where Cordova had experienced a rough reception from the natives; and 
 soon after reached the mouth of the Rio de Tabasco , or Grijalva, in which 
 that navigator had carried on so lucrative a traffic. Though mindful 
 of the great object of his voyage, — the visit to the Aztec territories, — ■ 
 he was desirous of acquainting himself with the resources of this country, 
 and determined to ascend the river and visit the great towns on its bor- 
 ders. The water was so shallow, from the accumulation of sand at the 
 mouth of the stream, that the General was obliged to leave the ships at 
 anchor and to embark in the boats with a part only of his forces. The 
 banks were thickly studded with mangrove trees, that, with their roots 
 shooting up and interlacing one another, formed a kind of impervious 
 screen or network, behind which the dark forms of the natives were seen 
 glancing to and fro with the most menacing looks and gestures. Cortes, 
 much surprised at these unfriendly demonstrations, so unlike what he 
 had had reason to expect, moved cautiously up the stream. When he 
 had reached an open place, where a large number of Indians were as- 
 sembled, he asked, through his interpreter, leave to land, explaining at 
 the same time his amicable intentions. But the Indians, brandishing 
 their weapons, answered only with gestures of angry defiance. Though 
 much chagrined, Cortes thought it best not to urge the matter further 
 that evening, but withdrew to a neighboring island, where he disem- 
 barked his troops, resolved to effect a landing on the following morning. 
 
 “ When day broke the Spaniards saw the opposite bank lined with a 
 much more numerous array than on the preceding evening, while the 
 canoes along the shore were filled with armed warriors. Cortes now made 
 his preparations for the attack. He first landed (March 25, 1519, the 
 first landing of Cortes on Mex. soil) a detachment of a hundred men un- 
 der Alonzo de Avila, at a point somewhat lower down the stream, shel- 
 tered by a thick grove of palms, from which a road, as he knew, led to 
 
562 Route 65. 
 
 HISTORY OF TABASCO 
 
 the town of Tabasco, giving orders to his officers to march at once on 
 the place, while he himself advanced to assault it in front. Then, em- 
 barking the remainder of his troops, Cortes crossed the river in face of 
 the enemy; hut, before commencing hostilities, that he might ‘act with 
 entire regard to justice, and in obedience to the instructions of the Royal 
 Council,’ he first caused proclamation to be made, that he desired only 
 a free passage for his men, and that he proposed to revive the friendly 
 relations which had formerly existed between his countrymen and the 
 natives. He assured them that if blood were spilt the sin would lie on 
 their heads, and that resistance would be useless, since he was resolved 
 at all hazards to take up his quarters that night in the town of Tabasco. 
 This proclamation, delivered in lofty tone, was answered by the Indians 
 — who might possibly have comprehended one word in ten of it — with 
 shouts of defiance and a shower of arrows. 
 
 “ Cortts, having now complied with all the requisitions of a loyal cava- 
 lier, and shifted the responsibility from his own shoulders to those of 
 t lie Royal Council, brought his boats alongside of the Indian canoes. 
 They grappled fiercely, and both parties were soon in the water, which 
 rose above the girdle. The struggle was not long, though desperate. The 
 superior strength of the Europeans prevailed, and they forced the enemy 
 back to land. Here, however, they were supported by their countrymen, 
 who showered down darts, arrows, and blazing billets of wood on the 
 heads of the invaders. The banks were soft and slippery, and it was with 
 difficulty the soldiers made good their footing. Cortes lost a sandal in the 
 mud, but continued to fight barefoot, with great exposure of his person, 
 as the Indians, who soon singled out the leader, called to one another, 
 ‘ St rike at the Chief! ’ At length the Spaniards gained the bank, and were 
 able to come into something like order, when they opened a brisk fire from 
 their arquebuses and cross-bows. The enemy, astounded by the roar 
 and flash of the firearms, of which they had had no experience, fell back, 
 anil retreated behind a breastwork of timber thrown across the way. 
 The Spaniards, hot in the pursuit, soon carried these rude defences, and 
 drove the Tabascans before them toward the town, where they again 
 took shelter behind their palisades. Meanwhile Avila had arrived from 
 the opposite quarter, and the natives, taken by surprise, made no further 
 attempt at resistance, but abandoned the place to the Christians. They 
 had previously removed their families and effects. Some provisions fell 
 into the hands of the victors, but little gold, ‘ a circumstance,’ says Las 
 Casas, ‘which gave them no particular satisfaction.’ Peter Martyr gives 
 a glowing picture of this Indian capital. It was a populous place. The 
 houses were mostly of mud; the better sort of stone and lime: affording 
 proofs in the inhabitants of a superior refinement to that found on the 
 bland, as their stout resistance had given evidence of superior valor. 
 
 “ A few days later the Indians returned to the neighborhood and a 
 fierce battle was fought about a league from the Indian town. Though 
 s<»rely pressed, the Spaniards were victorious. The field of battle was 
 made the site of a town called, in honor of the day on which the action 
 took place, Santa Maria de la Victoria , long afterwards the capital of the 
 province. The Tabascans had lost their relish for further hostilities. 
 The principal caciques gave themselves up to the victors and friendly 
 ourse was established. The next day — Palm Sunday — Mass 
 w - celebrated, at which several thousand Indians of both sexes were 
 These solemnities concluded, Cortes and his men returned to 
 th« ir -hips, well satisfied with the impression made on the new converts, 
 an ! with the conquest achieved for Castile and Christianity. The sol- 
 di* r-, taking leave of their Indian friends, entered the boats with palm 
 branches in their hands, and embarked on board their vessels. A fa- 
 vorable breeze was blowing, and the little navy, opening its sails to re- 
 cc i\ e it, was soon on its way again to the golden shores of Mexico.” 
 
 After the Conquest of Yucatan the Villa Victoria was settled by Span- 
 ish an I Me tiso families. The site was found to be unhealthy and it was 
 rei ved to the spot now occupied by San Juan Bautista — so called bv 
 re nofthedav on which the transfer was made. In 1598, Felipe II con- 
 ceiled to San Juan Bautista the title of Villa Hermosa (beautiful town). 
 On Oct. 27, 1826, the name was changed to San Juan Bautista de Tabasco . 
 
STATE OF CHIAPAS 66. Route. 563 
 
 66. State of Chiapas. 
 
 Chiapas, the southernmost Mexican state (pop. 360,599, 
 area 70,524 sqr. kilom.), one of the richest but least known 
 of the Mex. possessions, is bounded on the N. by the Estado de 
 Tabasco , on the E. by the Republica de Guatemala , on the S. 
 by the Gulf of Tehuantepec , and on theW. by Vera Cruz and 
 Oaxaca. Its 12 political divisions are noted for their large 
 Indian population — : about 164,000. The capital is Tuxtla 
 Gutierrez , 530 metres above sea-level with a population of 
 23,000. As the state lies but 16° N. of the equator, under 
 a semi-tropical sun and in a splendidly watered region, it is 
 marvellously productive. 
 
 The Sierra Madre Mts. cross the S. portion from S.-E. to N.-W., 
 leaving between them and the Pacific Ocean a strip of land varying from 
 10 to 40 miles wide, cut off from the rest of the state by its mountain 
 barrier, amazingly rich, very tropical, and the home of the cacao-bean, 
 coffee, sugar-cane, and many valuable products. A dense forest, abound- 
 ing in precious cabinet and dye-woods, is a feature of this strip, which is 
 watered by many small streams that burst from the mt. sides and empty 
 into the Pacific Ocean. At the extreme S. end of this ribbon of land, in 
 the Soconusco district (famed for its splendid cacao), rises the majestic Ta- 
 conah Volcano, 11,970 ft. high. The dividing line which separates Mex- 
 ico and Guatemala passes across its summit. On this giant arm of the 
 cordilleras are the clustered mts. known as Los Tres Picos — the three 
 peaks. In the Districts of Palenque (celebrated for some of the finest 
 ruins on the continent), Simojovel and Pichucalco, the foot-hills of the 
 Sierra Madre are marked by an exuberant and beautiful tropical vege- 
 tation. On the E. plateau, known as the Desierto de los Lacandones 
 (desert of the Lacandon Indians), there rises the Cerro de Ixbul, across 
 whose summit also passes the imaginary line which separates the two 
 republics. The vast plain of this region is watered by the Usumacinta 
 River , which rises in Guatemala, serves as a section of the dividing line 
 between that country and Chiapas, crosses the contiguous state of Ta- 
 basco and ends its 500 kilom. journey in the Gulf of Mexico. The Chiapa 
 or Mezcalapa River also rises in Guatemala, crosses Chiapas from N.-E. 
 to S.-W., passes through the state of Tabasco under the name of the Rio 
 Grijalva (named for the chief pilot of Herndn Cortes ), and empties into 
 the Gulf of Mex. 554 kilom. from its source. Both of these splendid 
 rivers are navigable the greater part of their length ; steamboats come 
 up the Mezcalapa to within 70 M. of the state capital. Few railways 
 (the most important is the Pan-American, described at p. 558) exist 
 in Chiapas, and much of the travel is by waterways. Six rivers penetrate 
 the state, forming the communication between the different sections. 
 Entering from the Gulf of Mexico by the Grijalva River, one passes into 
 the Mezcalapa district. Pichucalco is reached by ascending the Blan- 
 quillo River; Palenque and Chacamas by the Tulija River. The chief 
 ports are San Benito and Tonald, both on the Pacific Ocean. 
 
 The Fauna and Flora cover a wide range. The former embraces 60 
 species of mammals, 100 birds, 40 reptiles, 9 batrachians, 40 fishes, and 
 almost numberless insects, myriapoda (thousand-legged insects), crus- 
 taceans, mollusks, corals, sponges, and the like. Cochineal insects (p. 543) 
 abound; likewise the mollusk called Aplisia depilans, much used by the 
 Indians as a dye substance — a product said to be the same dye known 
 to the ancients as lepus marinu, which produced the purple of Tyre, in 
 Asia Minor. The beautiful Quetzal (the Aztec Bird-of-Paradise) makes 
 its home in the dense, unexplored forests, which are also the resort of 
 wild-turkevs, wood-pigeons, pheasants, and a small world of feathered 
 marvels. The lakes and rivers swarm with fish, and mother-of-pearl is 
 found in the adjacent sea. Leopards, tigers, wild-boars, deer, lynxes, 
 
564 Route 66. 
 
 ORCHIDS 
 
 monkeys, hares, rabbits, squirrels, and whatnot, live on the mt. slopes. 
 The beautiful American Egret ( Herodias egretta ) is .found on the coast 
 near Tonald and Soconuseo. 
 
 The Flora comprises 70 classes of cabinet-woods, 50 different kinds of 
 timber, 40 varieties of fruits, 30 textile plants, 22 tanning, 25 oleaginous, 
 15 poisonous, and many aromatic and medicinal plants, 36 dye-woods, 
 30 gums and resins, 15 forage plants, roots, leaves, barks, and myriad 
 flowers. Among these are orchids that rank with the finest in America. 
 The ziquilite plant which produces indigo (Sp . = aiiil, Aztec = Xiuh- 
 quilipitzahuac) thrives luxuriantly ; also the saffron and a plant called 
 curcumaque, which produces a beautiful yellow color. From the pulp 
 of the seed vessel of the Annota ( Bixa orellana ) a fine red coloring sub- 
 stance is obtained, and from a host of other plants as many coloring and 
 medicinal products are extracted. 
 
 Much of the cacao (from the Aztec cacahuatl, or peanut) of commerce 
 has its origin in the Soconuseo District of Chiapas. The forests produce 
 almost every variety of tree that grows in equatorial soil. The ebony, 
 mahogany, fig, balsam, rubber, log- wood, orange, pine, walnut, cypress 
 (in the foot-hills), Brazil-wood (used in making dyes), Chinchona (which 
 produces the quinine of commerce), the cork, royal palm, and cocoanut 
 are but a few of them. From the life juices of certain of the myriad plants 
 are taken copal, liquid-amber, incense, and a wide variety of products. 
 Excellent oranges grow side by side with lemons, limes, tamarinds, 
 mangoes, aguacates, mamayes, zapotes, pineapples, plums, peaches, 
 bananas, figs, and whatnot. Chief among the multitudinous products are 
 coffee .about 4,500,000 trees in the state), sugar, tobacco, rice, cotton, 
 henequdn, vanilla, sarsaparilla, and a wide range of cereals. Many cattle 
 and horses are raised, and the exportation of crocodile skins nets a large 
 revenue. Considerable rubber (hide) is produced, and it thrives well in the 
 Pi<'hucalco district, where there are said to be upward of 3,000,000 rub- 
 ber trees. The rubber plantations are often referred to, and confounded 
 with, cacao plantations, as the rubber and cacao trees are usually planted 
 near to each other just as are coffee trees and banana-plants. Henequen 
 raising (comp. p. 583) is becoming a valuable industry. 
 
 Orchids (Sp. Orquidea ) is the name of a group of plants 
 (order Orchidaceoe) containing more than 12,000 known species 
 and some thousands of varieties, many of which are highly 
 valuable commercially. They are as a whole by far the most 
 interesting order of plants of the entire vegetable kingdom, 
 because of their extraordinary mode of growth and existence, 
 their curious habits, and the varied form of their flowers, 
 which are distinct from all other classes of plants, fine in tex- 
 ture, and of glowing and exquisite colors. 
 
 “Orchids are distributed over a considerable area of Mexico, where 
 they are classified according to their habit of growth and subsistence 
 ' ft epiphytal, ana terrestrial. The first-named class includes 
 the more inferior species, which grow mostly in wet and marshj' places, 
 
 ; g, are of little value for botanical purposes. The 
 r ;> /TyM/ group is bv far the most valuable and the most important of 
 them all in every respect. The species of this section are often errone- 
 o T v called parasites, when it is a fact that not one of the whole orchid 
 f unilv is a parasite. Nearly all the members of this class grow and 
 thrive best upon the trunks and limbs of trees in mid air, simply clinging 
 to sin : • stem or small limb, and, therefore, sometimes quite properly 
 called air-plants. It is this group, too, which contains the most beautiful 
 nii' 1 m"d valuable species and varieties and the most varied colors. 
 Their natural habitats are generally confined to tropical and sub-tropi- 
 cal climates, where the moisture-laden and humid atmosphere affords 
 the most congenial nourishment.” 
 
 The nv"t valuable variety of orchid in Mexico is perhaps the Citrina 
 of the genus Cattleya, one of the most prized among all orchids. It is 
 
History. INDIAN TRIBES 66. Route. 565 
 
 usually found in the remote fastnesses of the forests of the tierra caliente 
 and is sought by Indian hunters employed for the purpose. Closely 
 allied to the genus Cattleya is the Lcelia , the varieties of which most com- 
 mon in Mexico are L. anceps; L. autumnalis; L. gouldiana ; L.alba;L. 
 albida; L. majollis; and L. digbiana. Of the genus Oncidium, which em- 
 braces many beautiful species and varieties, there are also to be found 
 the Oncidium splendidum, the 0. cavendishianum , and the 0. tigrinum. 
 The Inseleyii leopardinum of the genus Odontoglossum is one of the most 
 gorgeous of the forest flowers of the hot lands. In Europe and America, 
 where efforts are being continually made to cultivate this wonderful plant 
 in hot-houses, almost fabulous prices are paid for fine specimens. Bot- 
 anists of different nationalities are often met with in Mexico seeking these 
 plants. There are several species of the Lycasta, Stanhopia, Chysis, 
 Schomburgkia, and other less known varieties in the Repub. 
 
 There are about 14 distinct Indian Tribes in Chiapas , each with its 
 own language. The curious assertion has been made that some of these 
 Indians (who mix as little as possible with the whites) are able to com- 
 municate telepathically across hundreds of miles of space, employing 
 in the operation a sort of native wireless telegraphy whose secrets are 
 guarded from all uitlanders. Comitan, one of the southernmost Chiapas 
 towns (1,337 kilom. from Mexico City and but 19 kilom. from the 
 Guatemalan frontier), the centre of a large trade in sugar and cattle, is 
 noted for the manufacture of a kind of strong brandy, called Comiteco, 
 made from a species of maguey plant. Noteworthy features of certain of 
 these southern Chiapas towns are the Marimba players, or performers on 
 the musical instrument called Marimba — a bizarre object (perhaps Afri- 
 can in origin) shaped like a zylophone, on collapsible legs, and which is 
 played upon by four men at one time. The instrument is rarely seen N. of 
 Chiapas , but it is very common throughout Central America. Albeit Chia- 
 pas lies in the torrid zone the topographical inequalities of the state pro- 
 duce several Climates. Along the coast it is hot and in many places un- 
 healthy. The Valley of San Cristobal is cool and sometimes cold. In 
 certain regions the climate is temperate and agreeable. In the Districts 
 of Comitan , Chiapa, La Libertad , and Tuxtla the rain-fall is moderate; in 
 the remaining regions it is excessive. 
 
 History. Some historians believe Chiapas to have been the cradle of 
 the human race. Its ruins are world-renowned and of the greatest interest. 
 The name Chiapas is supposed to be derived from the Indian vocable 
 Tepetchia, signifying ‘‘Battle mountain.” The origin of the people who 
 first inhabited the region is shrouded in the deepest mystery. According 
 to some historians they came from Nicaragua: others believe them an 
 offshoot of the wandering tribes who in ages past inhabited the vast con- 
 tinent of North America in general, and the great Mexican plateaux in 
 particular. The ruins of Pcdenque and Ococingo have astonished every 
 traveller who has visited them, by their evidences of an advanced civili- 
 zation, in which mental culture predominated. The dialects spoken by 
 the various peoples who in times past have dwelt in the state are the 
 Tzotzil, Tzendal, Trokeck , Zoque , Maya, Marne, Chiche, and Mexican. 
 These dialects are still spoken by the descendants of the vanished races 
 that once swarmed over this section. 
 
 The earliest historical records mention an invasion of the Ulmecos 
 who secured possession of the country and dominated the Chiapanecos 
 (natives of Chiapas ) and finally drove them to Guatemala. Later came 
 the Toltecs, who in turn were overthrown by Ahuizotl, one-time head of 
 the Mexican Empire. This was the condition of the country when it was 
 invaded by the Spaniards. Owing to its inaccessibility some time passed 
 after the Spaniards reached the coast of Mexico before Chiapas was added 
 to their laurels. Finally Cortes sent Don Diego de Mazariego on an ex- 
 pedition against the valiant defenders of the country. This expedition 
 failed and was supplemented by another. This time Cortes strengthened 
 the equipment by the addition of five pieces of artillery that he had des- 
 tined for that portion of the Spanish fleet bound south on a voyage of 
 further discovery. Mazariego, on reaching Chiapas, met with a resistance 
 even stouter than the first. The people were more intelligent than the 
 bloodthirsty inhabitants of Tenochtitldn, and they fought with a bravery 
 
56G Route 66. 
 
 RUINED CITIES 
 
 that astonished the invaders. Retiring to a mountain where there was 
 a ~'>rt of fortress, they defended it against the mail-clad Spaniards with 
 such shrewdness that Mazariego lost many of his men. But finally the 
 terrible foreigners prevailed, and the disheartened Indians, preferring 
 death to captivity, threw their wives and children, and finally them- 
 selves, from the heights into a boiling river that ran through a deep 
 canon at the foot of the mountain. But very few were taken captives. 
 These were treated with benevolence, and in time they founded a city 
 (supposed to be the present city* of Chiapa ) 7 kilom. distant from the 
 scene of the battle. 
 
 Struck by the astonishing fertility 7 and beauty of the country, Maza- 
 riego decided to found a Spanish city within its confines. This was done, 
 and on the 31st of March, 152S, Villa Real (royal town) was founded on 
 the spot, which is the present site of San Cristobal Las Casas. Mazariego 
 was a humane man with advanced ideas, and the city in the wilderness 
 flourished from its inception. The first Audiencia de Mexico elected 
 Don Juan Enrique de Guzman to supersede Mazariego , and the excel- 
 lent work done by the founder was soon invalidated. Guzman, in his 
 hatred for Mazariego , changed the name of the place and called it Villa- 
 viciosa (vicious town), expressing, at the same time, his determination 
 to mulct any one to the amount of 50 gold doubloons who might call it 
 bv another name. By a royal decree promulgated Nov. 20, 1542, the 
 so-called “ Audiencia de los Confines ” (Captaincy General of Guatemala) 
 was created. This embraced the provinces of Honduras , Nicaragua, 
 Soconusco . Chiapas, Tabasco, and Yucatan. From that date Chiapas 
 was considered a province of Guatemala, but on August 29, 1821, it 
 proclaimed its independence of Spain. Onct, free it spontaneously de- 
 clared its adherence to the Mex. Repub. (Sept. 29, 1822). Later, finding 
 that it had no voice in the matter of how the country should be con- 
 ducted, it regained its sovereignty, but presently rejoined the confedera- 
 tion. After the revolution of Ayutla, by a decree promulgated by the 
 political constitution of the United Mexican States, Feb. 5, 1857, Chia- 
 pa s was elevated to the rank of a free and sovereign state of the Fedcra- 
 ciori Mrxicana, and as such it issued its Political Constitution Feb. 4, 
 1858. Education is obligatory in Chiapas, but its propagation is difficult 
 owing to the diversity of races and dialects, and to the fact that the 
 Indians cling persistently to their ancient customs. 
 
 That the amazing richness of this little explored state 
 was known to the early tribes is shown by the fact that within 
 its confines are Ruins of Ancient Cities which rank among 
 the finest on the American continent. Owing to their isolation, 
 and to the lack of rlvs., these ruins, the chief among which are 
 Palenque ( palemke — a word of Spanish origin and meaning 
 stockade or an enclosure of palisades), are rarely visited by 
 others than the natives dwelling in the vicinity. 
 
 Visitors to the ruins must carry a camping outfit and food, 
 and must camp in the neighborhood. Indians make the best- 
 guides; they are usually to be found at Montecristo , the point 
 of departure from the river. More than one should be taken 
 along, as the journey is apt to be arduous, and illness is not 
 uncommon. 
 
 The best way to reach Palenque is by steamship of the 
 Mexican Navigation Co. from Vera Cruz (p. 470) or Coat- 
 zacoalcos (p. 550) to the port of Frontera , State of Tabasco, 
 thence up the Usumaeinta (see p. 561) to (150 M.) Monte- 
 cristo. The Ruins are 30 M. in a northeasterly direction 
 (about 2 days’ travel) from Montecristo, and 6 M. N. of the 
 
RUINS OF PALENQUE 6b. Route . 567 
 
 Indian Village of Palenque, on the far side of the Chimchivol 
 River. Before undertaking the trip the traveller should seek 
 the advice of some official in the Department of Anthropology 
 (comp. p. 425), at Mexico City, and also consult an agent of 
 the Mexican Navigation Co. 
 
 The Ruins of Palenque 1 were the first which awakened 
 attention to the existence of ancient and unknown cities in 
 tropical America. In 1750 a party of Spaniards travelling in 
 the interior penetrated to the lands N. of the district of Carmen , 
 in the province of Chiapas, when all at once they found, in the 
 midst of a vast solitude, the remains of a city, some 20 M. in 
 extent, known to the Indians as the Casas de Piedras (stone 
 houses). The existence of such a city was entirely unknown: 
 there had been no mention of it in any books, and no tradition 
 that it had ever been. It is thong ht to have been abandoned 
 as early as the 12th century. To this day it is not known by 
 what name it was called, and the only appellation given to it is 
 that of Palenque, after the village near which the ruins stand. 
 The whole country for miles around is covered by a dense 
 forest of gigantic trees, with a growth of brush and underwood 
 impenetrable in any direction except by cutting a way with a 
 machete. What lies buried in the adjacent forest is still a 
 mystery, as one might go within 100 ft. of all the buildings 
 without discovering one of them. These palaces of stone and 
 stucco, elaborately carved, painted and covered with pe- 
 troglyphs, are evidently the work of a polished and cultivated 
 people who reached their finest achievement in these humid 
 forests, then perished entirely unknown, and left behind them 
 not even a name to distinguish their peculiar civilization. That 
 this was of a high order is evidenced by the splendid tablets 
 and other relics now in the National Museum at, Mex. City. 
 
 “Unlike Copan, yet buried, too, ’mid trees, 
 
 Upspringing there for sumless centuries, 
 
 Behold a royal city, vast and lone, 
 
 Lost to each race, to all the world unknown 
 Like famed Pompeii ’neath her lava bed, 
 
 Till chance unveiled the ‘Citv of the Dead.’ 
 
 Palenque! seat of kings! as o’er the plain, 
 
 Clothed with thick copse, the traveller toils with pain, 
 
 Climbs the rude mound the shadowy scene to trace, 
 
 He views in mute surprise thy desert grace. 
 
 At every step some palace meets his eye, 
 
 Some figure frowns, some temple courts the sky: 
 
 It seems as if that hour the verdurous earth, 
 
 By genii struck, had given these fabrics birth, 
 
 Save that old Time hath flung his darkening pall 
 On each tree-shaded tower and pictured wall.” 
 
 (Southey’s Madoc .) 
 
 1 The best detailed description of the ruins is to be found in John L. 
 Stephens’ Incidents of Travel in Central America , Chiapas and Yucatan. 
 Consult also Native Races, by Hubert Howe Bancroft; Prescott’s Con- 
 quest of Mexico ; Holmes’ Ancient Cities of Mexico ; Morgan’s Houses and 
 House Life of the American Aborigines. 
 
568 Route 66 TUXTLA GUTIERREZ 
 
 A singularly beautiful insect is found in and near the Palenque ruins. 
 To the early Spanish chroniclers they were known as shining beetles; the 
 historian describes them as “Somewhat smaller than Sparrows, having 
 two stars close by their Eyes, and two more under their Wings, which gave 
 so great a light that by it they could spin, weave, write, and paint; and 
 the Spaniards went by night to hunt the Utios, or little Rabbits of that 
 country; and a-fishing, carrying these Animals tied to their great Toes 
 or Thumbs; and they called them Locuyos , being also of use to save them 
 from the Gnats, which are there very troublesome. They took them in 
 the Night with Firebrands, because they made to the light, and came 
 when called by their Name; and they are so unwieldy that when they 
 fall they cannot rise again; and the Men stroaking their Faces and Hands 
 with a sort of Moisture that is in those Stars, seemed to be afire as long 
 as it lasted.” 
 
 This insect, which is common to the tropical forests bordering the 
 Gulf of Mexico, belongs to a family of beetles known as the Elateridce, and 
 is called by the Indians cucuji. Seen by day, this Elater firefly is a large 
 beetle, of a greenish black, a trifle more than an inch long. When resting 
 at night with wings closed, only the two spiracles on the back show light. 
 The larvae are thin, hard, and voracious, and in the wire-worm state, are 
 very destructive to sugar-cane. Full-grown beetles have a sharp, movable 
 horn on the head; when laid on the back they cannot turn over except 
 by pressing this horn against a membrane upon the front. Behind the 
 eyes are two round transparent substances full of luminous matter, about 
 as large as the head of a pin, and underneath is a larger membrane con- 
 1 aining the same luminous substance. When roused and in perfect vigor, 
 the insect seems perfectly saturated by the luminous secretion. The light 
 is much stronger and far more beautiful in color than that of the common 
 glow-worm. The phosphorescent substance remains luminous if removed 
 from the beetle immediately after death. Four of these luciferous insects 
 (which abound hereabout) will throw a fairly brilliant light for several 
 yards around, and by the light of a single insect one may read distinctly 
 the finely-printed pages of a newspaper. 
 
 They are nocturnal creatures, flying only after dark, and their bril- 
 liancy is so remarkable that they are said to have saved the lives of 
 travellers temporarily lost in the deep forests which characterize the 
 Southern portion of the Gulf region. To the uninitiated they resemble 
 fiery dragons sweeping through the air with automobile lamps set upon 
 th • i r shoulders. They live upon gnats and other insects, and their lasting 
 brilliance causes them to be used as miniature torches by the natives. 
 The Indians fasten them to their ankles when treading the forest at night; 
 the women wear them in their hair under a thin gauze veil and construct 
 little cages for them, thus using them as lamps. These cages are cylindri- 
 cal with a disc of thin wood at the top and bottom, and slender uprights 
 of plit bamboo, so placed as to prevent the beetles from escaping, yet 
 allowing the light to shine through. Three or four are placed in one cage, 
 and thi - is occasionally immersed in water to prevent the insects dying. 
 An Indian forest maiden with her hair ablaze with these singular creatures 
 i a somewhat bizarre sight to the uitlander. Boys rub the flesh of cucuji 
 over their faces to frighten their fellows. The insects congregate bv the 
 thousands on certain forest trees, and as if atagiven signal simultaneously 
 flash their lights: then darken them and flash them again. The effect is 
 singularly beautiful and unique: the entire tree resembles a giant phos- 
 phorescent flame. Then, as if satisfied with the success of their perfor- 
 mance, the beetles dart upward in all directions, like sparks from brilliant 
 fire-works. 
 
 Tuxtla Gutierrez (1,776 ft.), capital of the state of Chiapas, with a 
 population of 22,000, is 140 kilom. from the station of Jalisco ( Pan - 
 A mcriran Railway, Rte. 64), to which it is linked by a highway. When the 
 stage-line (rlilinencia, fare $20) is not in service the traveller may be able 
 to nrrange for horses ($2.50 a day) with the station agent. A mozo , or 
 stable-boy, must accompany them, to return them, and the traveller must 
 pav for the additional horse, the keep of the mozo, and an extra peso a day 
 as his salary. The trip from Jalisco should not consume above 2h to 3 
 clays. Food and lodgings always obtainable at wayside haciendas. While 
 
STATE OF CAMPECHE 67. Route. 569 
 
 the highways are said to be safe, the prudent traveller will travel in the 
 company of some one. 
 
 Tuxtla Gutierrez is a somnolent town, characteristically Mexican, with 
 squat houses and cobble-paved streets. The absence of rly. communica- 
 tions accounts, in a way, for the lack of progress. It stands in the midst 
 of an amazingly rich district, on a fertile plain watered by the Rio Chiapa. 
 Beautiful tropical trees and flowers adorn the Alameda and the numerous 
 small plazas. The Paseo Joaquin Miguel Gutierrez is the fashionable 
 promenade. The Feria de Guadalupe , held in Dec. of each year, brings 
 many visitors and fills the hotels. The town is in telegraphic communica- 
 tion with the rest of the Repub. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii): Hotel Mexico (sometimes called Hotel Paco , 
 from the name of the proprietor) , at the corner of the Calle Las Casas and 
 the Ave. Republica. — Hotel Central , Calle de Gamboa and Ave. Triunfo . — 
 Hotel la Serpentina , Calle Las Casas and Ave. Mexico. Rates in all from 
 $2.50 to $3.50 Am. PI., including baths. 
 
 Baths. The favorite bathing place is in the Rio Sabinal. 
 
 Banks. Banco Nacional de Mexico , and Banco de Chiapas. 
 
 The Market Place, which on certain days is thronged with 
 Tzotzils, Zoques , Zapotecs , and many other Indians, is unusually 
 interesting. Many of the Indian women are goitrous and not 
 a few are afflicted with leprous tendencies — the spotted ones 
 being known as Pintos or painted ones. The brightly painted 
 gourds and calabashes sold in the market are a specialty of 
 the region, and resemble in design and workmanship those of 
 Uruapan (p. 229). 
 
 67. State of Campeche. 
 
 Campeche (known also as Campeachy), renowned for its production of 
 campeachy or log-wood; with a pop. of 86,600 and an area of 46,855 sq. 
 kilom., skirts the warm Golfo de Mejico , which bounds it on the W. 
 Yucatan lies to the N. and E.; the Repub. of Guatemala to the S.-E. and 
 S., and the State of Tabasco to the S. and S.-W. Its soil is tropical and 
 wonderfully fertile. Throughout its greatest extent it is covered with 
 dense forests of log-wood and other valuable trees. The Southern region, 
 contiguous to Guatemala , is but little known. On the S.-W. coast is the 
 fine Laguna de Terminos, discovered in 1518 by Anton de Alminos, the 
 Spanish pilot of the Grijalva expedition, who gave it its present name 
 because he believed it was the terminus of what he thought was the 
 island of Yucatan. The name stuck to it from the circumstance of its 
 having long served as the dividing line between the old states of Yucatan 
 and Tabasco. It is a vast sweet-water lake (70 by 40 kilom.) formed by a 
 multitude of rivulets. Along its splendidly wooded shores are the muni - 
 cipalidades of Sabancuy, Mamantel, and Palizada. Many of the rivers 
 which empty into this lagoon drain the contiguous tropical forests and 
 swarm with alligators and fish. Some of the streams are natural flumes 
 down which plunges the splendid forest timber, cut in the interior and 
 exported from Carmen. 
 
 Chief among these is the Log-Wood Tree ( H cematoxylon Campeach- 
 ianum), which produces a heavy, red wood of firm texture, containing a 
 crystalline yellow substance called hcematoxyline — used extensively for 
 dyeing and for coloring wines. An extract of the wood is employed medi- 
 cinally as an astringent. The tree has a crooked, deformed stem (as if 
 gripped by its own juice) and grows to a height of 25 ft. or more. The 
 native Indian name for it is opiaxtle , but it is known in the world’s mar- 
 kets under the Spanish name of polo de tinte (dye-wood). The annual 
 product is about 25,000,000 kilos, valued at (approximately) one million 
 pesos. Resinous and medicinal plants abound in Campeche. Sugar-cane, 
 rice, and tobacco of excellent quality are produced, along with maize, 
 henequen, cotton, indigo, and a multiplicity of minor products. Beside 
 
570 Route 67 . 
 
 CAMPECHE CITY 
 
 log-wood the forests produce ebony, cedar, mahogany, rose-wood, 
 lignum-vitse, etc. The Fauna and Flora are varied and interesting. There 
 arc 50 species of mammals, 70 varieties of birds, 40 reptiles, S batrachians, 
 40 fishes, 75 insects, and many crustaceans and mollusks. The Sabancuy 
 R er is noted for its oysters. The Flora embraces over 150 species of wild 
 trees, 50 fruits, 28 textile plants, 20 classes of roots and barks for tanning 
 purposes, 16 oleaginous seeds, 24 dye-woods, 10 forage plants, 7 poisonous, 
 21 aromatic, and a great number of medicinal plants, along with several 
 jjums and resins and a myriad flowers and ornamental plants. The chief 
 industries are the cutting and exportation of log-wood, the manufacture of 
 palm-hats, hammocks, and tortoise-shell articles. Honey is produced in 
 quantities, and the breeding of stock is carried on extensively. 
 
 Campeche, capital of the state and chief town of the partido of the 
 same name (pop. IS, 000, the 2d city in importance on the Yucatan 
 peninsula), occupies a strikingly beautiful position on the Gulf of Mex- 
 ico. 1,320 kilom. from Mex. City and 930 from Vera Cruz — with which 
 it is connected by coastwise steamships. It is 173 kilom. from Merida 
 (p. 574) and is linked thereto by a rly. The name of the town is derived 
 from the Maya word kim — serpent, and pech — tick ( garrapata ) be- 
 cause of the many insects of this species which infest the place. It was 
 founded (by Francisco Montejo ) in 1540, and is therefore one of the oldest 
 towns in America. Hernandez de Cordoba disembarked here in 1517, 
 before sighting Vera Cruz. The port occupies the site of the ancient 
 Maya town of Kimpech , the present name being a Spanish corruption 
 of that vocable. In the early years of its existence it was sacked repeat- 
 edly by buccaneers of the Spanish Main (chief among them the infa- 
 mous Lorencillo), and the bastioned and fortified walls (8 ft. thick), seg- 
 ments of which still stand, are relics of the early defences. 
 
 Viewed from the sea the town is very picturesque, embowered in 
 many brilliant-hued flowers and trees. The water of the harbor is only 
 about 10 ft. deep, and big ships anchor out in the bay. The stanch old 
 murlle dates from 1873. The lighthouse is of the 5th order and the light 
 is visible 10 M. at sea. The town is built over a system of immense sub- 
 terranean caverns, excavated by the early Mayas and used by them 
 as catacombs. The chief street is the Calle de Baranda, named for an 
 illustrious statesman, in whose honor the state is also known as Campeche 
 de Baranda. The manufacture of tortoise-shell combs, and so-called 
 Panama-hats is one of the minor industries. The Cathedral, in the centre 
 of the port, is a time-stained monument to the religious enthusiasm of 
 the conquistadores. The moist sea air imparts a venerable look to the 
 port buildings, all of which seem hoary with age. The Biblioteca Pub- 
 lico contains 6,000 volumes, chiefly *in Spanish. In the Instituto Cam- 
 pcchano are two museums, one of natural history, the other archaeologi- 
 cal. The climate of Campeche is not the healthiest on the coast. Visitors 
 are counselled to forego the drinking water (unless boiled) and to drink 
 bottled water. The Harrison Steamship Line and that of the Compahia 
 Mcrirana de Xavegacion connect the port with the outer world. Banco 
 Nacional de Mexico. 
 
 Excursions : Sixty-two kilom. E. of Campeche , in the Partido of 
 Bolonchcn (sometimes called Los Chenes), lies the town of Bolonchenticid, 
 renowned for its famous Cenotes (water-caves, p. 582). The name, 
 Bolonchcn , signifies 9 wells, and is derived from a cluster of wells in the 
 town. The cave in which these wells are found is mammoth in its pro- 
 portions and is known locally as La Gruta de Xtucumbi-X unan — Hidden 
 Woman, because of a popular legend which refers to a beautiful Mestiza 
 maiden, an unfortunate love affair, and a determination to adopt a 
 hermit existence in one of the gloomy caverns of this underground world. 
 The water lies 500 ft. below ground and is reached by an inclined cordu- 
 roy stairway 1 ,400 ft. long, made of tree trunks with a railing in the centre 
 to separate the lines of water carriers going and coming. The entrance 
 is along a narrow, precipitous trail, leading from the surface to a dark- 
 some ledge overlooking the pools. From this high ledge the wells re- 
 semble the Bottomless Pit of the Mammoth Cave of Kentucky. Many 
 brilliant stalactites pend from the dusky recesses of the great arched 
 roof; an absolute silence reigns, save for the subdued footfalls of the 
 
THE PENINSULA OF YUCATAN 67. Route. 571 
 
 quiet Mestiza and Indian women who cautiously ascend and descend 
 the long stairs, by the light of torches held high above their heads. At 
 the foot of the stairway are 7 pools of still water, containing cenote fish, 
 blind like those of the Mammoth Cave. Lizards, Iguanas and a myriad 
 Swallows make the caverns their home. The first pool is called (in the 
 Maya tongue) Chacka — red water; the 2d Pucuelha — reflux, because 
 of a native superstition that the water is wavy like tha£ of the sea, ebb- 
 ing when the wind blows from the S. and making when it blows from the 
 N. The current belief is that it must be approached in absolute silence, 
 else the sensitive waters will disappear The 3d pool is called Sallab — 
 water-fall; the 4th Akah-Ha — obscurity; the 5th Choco-Hd — hot- 
 water, because of its high temperature; the 6th Oicha , for its milky- 
 white color, and the 7th Chimaishd, from a certain insect — Chimais — 
 which swims about in it. These wells supply the town with water when 
 the local wells fail. 
 
 X. THE PENINSULA OF YUCATAN. 
 
 Arrival at Progreso 571 
 
 68. From Progreso to Merida, via San Ignacio, Yaxch6, 
 
 Chuburna and Itzimna 573 
 
 69. Merida 574 
 
 History and Conquest of the City 574 
 
 History of Yucatan 578 
 
 The Mayas 579 
 
 Ruined Cities 580 
 
 70. From Merida, via Muna, to Uxmal 580 
 
 71. From Merida, via Citas, to Chichen-Itza . . . .581 
 
 72. The Gulf State of Yucatan 582 
 
 Henequdn, 583. — Hammocks, 584. 
 
 X. The Peninsula of Yucatan. 
 
 Arrival at Progreso. Large ships usually anchor in the roadstead, about 
 3 M. off shore, and passengers are taken to the pier on a steam tug. Ships 
 usually stop 12 hours, which enables through passengers to spend a pleasant 
 day on shore and, if they so wish, sometimes to run up to Merida (de- 
 pending upon the time the ship remains, and how the trains run — con- 
 sult the Purser on board or the agent on shore). The customs inspection 
 is prompt, courteous and lenient. The rly. station is about 3 min. walk 
 from the dock. The Ward Line agent at Progreso will help the stranger to 
 plan out his time for the day. 
 
 Steamship Agents. The office of the New York & Cuba Mail S. S. Co. 
 
 (The Ward Line) is on 27th street, 3 blocks (right) from the fiscal wharf. — 
 That of the Mexican Navigation Co. ( Emilio Marco & Co., agents) is hard 
 by. 
 
 Railway Stations. Two Rly. Lines run to Merida, the Broad Gauge (via 
 ancha), 2 blocks from the fiscal pier; and the Narrow Gauge ( via angosta), 
 1 block beyond (the former). The fare to (36 Kiloms.) Merida is (apt to 
 change) about $2 1st cl. Trunk from the pier to the station (or hotel) about 
 $2. — If the traveller finds that the time of departure of trains for Merida 
 
572 Rte.67. PROGRESO — YUCATAN 
 
 on one line does not suit his convenience, he may wish to consult that of the 
 other. Several trains leave Progreso in the a. m. and return in the after- 
 noon. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii). Hotel Llano , room only, from S3 up. Meals a 
 
 la carta. 
 
 Banks. Banque Franqaise; Banco Nacional de Mexico. 
 
 Progreso (progress), the port of entry for the Peninsula of 
 Yucatan, a picturesque tropical town (pop. 10,000) noted for 
 the great quantity of henequen (p. 583) which annually passes 
 through it, outward bound, is a regular port of call for the 
 Ward Line ships, and is well worth visiting. The long, narrow 
 pier which extends far out in the azure water of the Gulf usu- 
 ally is crowded with diminutive flat cars ( plataformas ) drawn 
 by whimsical mules and loaded with bales of the valuable 
 fibre awaiting shipment (much of it to American manufactur- 
 ing cities where cordage is made). The commercial importance 
 of the port increases steadily, and this is reflected in the civic 
 improvements — clean plazas , streets handsome buildings, 
 etc. — usually under way. The lighthouse ( farol ) is of the 2d 
 order, and its brilliant light (projected seaward from a tall 
 circular tower in the centre of the port) is visible 31 miles at 
 sea. 
 
 The Main Street of Progreso is within a few min. walk of 
 the landing, and just beyond it, at the left (in the centre of the 
 town) is the clean, flower-crowned, tile-paved Plaza de Hi- 
 dalgo, with a somewhat crude bronze monument to the patriot 
 Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla. At one end of the plaza is the 
 Palacio Municipal. Many handsome tropical trees and 
 flowers adorn the square and impart an air of cleanliness and 
 freshness to it. Hundreds of coco palms idealize the port and 
 give it a decidedly tropical air. Despite the low latitude, and 
 the sandy nature of the Yucatan soil, Progreso is never very 
 hot. The warmest part of the day is the early morning when 
 the breeze blows off the land. A cool sea breeze comes m every 
 day about noon and continues to blow till about midnight. 
 There is excellent bathing in the surf on the sandy beach 
 (where sharks never venture), and the early riser will see the 
 townspeople in the water sometimes at 4 a. m. 
 
 The best way to see the town is to board a tranvia which 
 leaves from a spot near the landing and follows the circuito 
 (circuit) until it comes back to the starting point. In his 
 saunterings the traveller cannot fail to be struck by two salient 
 characteristics of the natives: their personal cleanliness, and a 
 suggestion, more or less recessive, of Asiatic provenience. 
 Both are yet more strikingly illustrated in Merida, where the 
 population is greater, and the types more prominent. The 
 clean faces of the porteiios are a pleasing cream-yellow, lighter 
 than the Valley of Mexico Indian, and, in truth, more attrac- 
 tive. Many of the Progreso women attend to the little shops, 
 and their spotless white, blue or red-bordered robes suggest 
 China and Burma. 
 
PROGRESO— MERIDA — YUCATAN 68. Rte. 573 
 
 Fishing is the chief industry of the port, and many of the 
 native shops are interesting because of the curious piscine 
 types displayed. Everything is eaten, from the red grouper 
 or guachinango (commonest of the Gulf fishes), to the tiburon , 
 or shark, which latter infests the waters roundabout and 
 affords endless sport to the fishermen (many of whom are 
 Chinese) and sailors. The latter begin to fish for them almost 
 as soon as the ship drops anchor, and passengers usually have 
 the opportunity during the day to see a flopping shark, dragged 
 protestingly over the side, and finished by the jubilant sailors 
 — who wage an endless and holy war against them. Sometimes 
 as many as a dozen gray shapes circle about the ship and bite 
 at the baited hooks. 
 
 The small fishes (pilot-fish — Echeneis naucrates) which 
 resemble baby sharks, or dog-fish, that cling by means of 
 suckers to the shark’s fins, and known locally as remora , are 
 unwelcome parasites which the harassed shark would eat 
 instantly if they ever so far forgot themselves as to get in 
 front of their benefactors. 
 
 Many of the fine fruits for which Yucatan is famous are 
 seen in the Progreso shops. Mangos, oranges, cocoanuts, and 
 bananas predominate. The matrons who preside over these 
 little stands carry their babies on their hips, just as their 
 remote ancestors in East India did and still do. At home they 
 all sleep in hammocks (Caribbean amaca, or hamac), which 
 take the place of beds throughout the Peninsula. 
 
 The Drinking Water in Progreso is rain water which is 
 caught as it falls and is stored in big tanks on the premises of 
 each house. The little fishes put in the tanks eat the mosquito 
 larvae and thus prevent yellow fever. 
 
 For a description of Merida, Route 69, see the following 
 page. 
 
 68. From Progreso to Merida, via San Ignacio, 
 Yaxche, Chuburna and Itzimna. 
 
 36 Kiloms. Railway (Ferrocarriles Unidos de Yucatan, Division Norton 
 
 Broad gauge. (Trains on the Narrow gauge pass through the towns of 
 Chicxulub , Conkal, and Cholul.) 
 
 The train runs at a good speed due S. over a level, rocky (limestone) 
 country covered with scrub trees, henequen plants, and, during the rainy 
 season, with pools of stagnant water which provide breeding places 
 for many ubiquitous and voracious mosquitoes. There are neither bridges 
 nor tunnels on the line. The soil is thin and dry, with a sparse vegetation. 
 14 Kilom. San Ignacio, amid fields of greenish-gray henequen , surrounded 
 by primitive stone fences, and dotted with native homes roofed with red 
 tiles. On the extreme r. are some picturesque palms and several wind- 
 mills ( molinos de viento ), outposts of the many thousands scattered over 
 the peninsula. The groups of palms and Casurina trees indicate the 
 presence of a well or cenote (p. 582). The gardens one sees about the 
 houses, as well as most of those in Merida , are made by blasting the 
 lime-stone rock and filling in the space with earth brought from a distance 
 at great expense. Beyond S. Ignacio the henequen plants, nearly all of a 
 height, stretch away as far as the eye can reach. Between this point and 
 
574 
 
 PROGRESO — MERIDA — YUCATAN 
 
 the station of Yaxche there is an alfalfa garden (on the r.) watered from 
 numerous iron pipes which stand up all over the field. 20 K. Yaxche. 
 There is a notable absence of cattle in the landscape; a few goats are 
 seen, as well as small mules which draw the miniature plantation cars 
 that bring in baled henequen from the distant haciendas. Some fine 
 flamboyant trees are visible from the cars. 30 K. Chubuma. 33 K. 
 Itzimna, a popular suburb^ of Merida. The line curves to the 1. before 
 entering the capital. 36 K. Merida, see below. 
 
 69. Merida. 
 
 Arrival. Railway Stations. 1. E station de la Mejorada (PI. D, 3), 
 N.-E. of the Plaza Principal , in the Calle 57. Broad-gauge to Progreso , 
 Division del Norte. — 2. E station de San Cristobal (PI. D, 3), S.-E.of the 
 plaza, Calle 69. Narrow-gauge to Progreso. — 3. Estacion Peninsular 
 (PI. B, 3) or de Campeche, S.-W. of the plaza; for Campeche (p. 569) and 
 the Yucatan towns of Uman, Chochola, Cholul, San Bernardo, Maxcanu , 
 Granada, San Jose, Halacho, Becal, Calkini, Citbalche, Pocboc, Hecelchakan, 
 Pomuch, Tenabo and Esperanza. The line is called the Linea Troncal 
 (trunk-line) of the Division Oeste. A daily train runs to (p. 570) Cam- 
 peche City (173 kilom. in 6^ hrs.) traversing an interesting tropical coun- 
 try. — 4. Estacion de Peto (PI. C, 3), Calle 54, S.-E. of the plaza; for Peto 
 and way stations. For additional information consult the railway folder. 
 
 Hotels (comp. p. xlvii), with beds (in lieu of hammocks) for foreigners. 
 Gran Hotel, Calle 60, facing the Parque Hidalgo (PI. C, 3). Rooms only, 
 $4 to $10. Meals in the restaurant a la carta. There are several other hotels 
 (the Imperial, Madrid, etc.) hard by. 
 
 Autos, Cabs. Ford autos meet trains; rates $2.50 per hr., $1.50 for £ 
 hr. or less. Compare watches with the chofer when you employ him by the 
 hour. In case of dispute ask him to drive to the comiseria — which he is 
 obliged to do. Cabs can sometimes be hired at a trifle less than autos. 
 Larger autos for country trips can be obtained with the help of the hotel 
 manager. Distances in Merida are short, and the streets clean. 
 
 Ruins. Trips should be planned with the assistance of one’s consul and 
 the hotel manager, as conditions alter from time to time, and transportation 
 facilities gradually improve. 
 
 Theatres and Moving Pictures. Moving pictures are very popular; in 
 the Salon Montejo, and the Teatro Independenda one can usually see ex- 
 cellent pictures furnished by the celebrated Circuito Olimpia, S. A. of 
 Mexico City, referred thereunder. 
 
 Steamship Agents. The Ward Line Office is in the Gran Hotel. 
 
 Banks. Banco Nacional de Mexico. — Arturo Pierce (both correspond- 
 ents of the (American) Mexico City Banking Corporation, S. A. — 
 Banque Frangaise du Mexique. 
 
 Merida (pop. 50,000, — 25 ft. above sea level, in lat. 20°, 
 55', 40", and long. 9°, 24', 30"), capital of the Yucatan Penin- 
 sula, one of the richest, most picturesque and most interesting 
 of the Mexican cities, was founded in 1542 Don Francisco 
 Montejo (the younger) on the site of the ancient Maya metrop- 
 olis of Tihoo. It was named after the old Iberian city of Merida , 
 the Emerite Avgusta, founded b. c. 23 by the Legate Publius 
 Carisius , and long known as the Rome of Spain. When the 
 Spaniards came and conquered Yucatan, Merida's unique 
 replica in the New World was so filled with magnificent Indian 
 temples and barbaric palaces that the dazzled conquist adores, 
 with pardonable exaggeration, likened it to, and named it for, 
 the Old World city. 
 
 The Montejos, father and son, have left an indelible im- 
 
t!*- ***'-* I 
 
 Tr 7 
 
 s? 
 
MERIDA — YUCATAN 69. Route. 575 
 
 print on the old Maya stronghold, which differs materially 
 from every other city in the Republic. Montejo the elder 
 (b. 1484, d. 1550) was one of Grijalva’s captains, and was 
 agent in Spain for Her nan Cortes from 1519 to 1522, and again 
 in 1526. He was a picturesque figure in the New World, be- 
 loved by his king, a conqueror by nature, and blessed by a son 
 who inherited most of his sire’s spirit and temperament. The 
 old manorial homestead, one of the few remaining secular 
 structures in Mexico with a purely plateresque fagade, is 
 genuinely interesting and is referred to at p. 578. It was built 
 at a time when the new Italian renaissance forms were mak- 
 ing an impression on the mediaeval style in Spain, and were 
 striving to supplant the early Roman and Gothic. Its re- 
 semblance to silver work (hence the name plateresque — 
 plata, silver) imparts a classical element which appealed 
 strongly to the Spanish taste of that remote period. 
 
 The clear, brilliant sunlight of Yucatan, where frost is un- 
 known and where brusque climatic changes are the exception 
 rather than the rule, has preserved the old Montejo mansion 
 in most of its pristine excellence. Its great age is nowhere 
 apparent, and one marvels at this when one reflects that this 
 still livable and permanently occupied residence was built 70 
 years before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth, and an almost 
 equal time before the Dutch bought Manhattan Island from 
 the Five Nations. When one recalls that it was erected in an 
 Indian town which in all likelihood was a densely populated 
 place in the opening years of the Christian Era, one gets a 
 faint conception of the real antiquity of this world so wrongly 
 called the New. 
 
 “The palaces and pyramids of the Maya city were so ancient (say the 
 old chroniclers), that from the mounds built by the earliest inhabitants 
 there grew trees a thousand years old.” In Maya times each of these 
 artificial mounds or pyramids was crowned by a temple, dedicated to 
 some Indian divinity, and one of them, the great temple of H-chun-Caan, 
 occupied the site of the present Plaza de la Republica. Historians aver 
 that certain of the earlier temples bore a strong resemblance, in their 
 architecture, to Toltec buildings. The massive stone blocks employed 
 in their construction were later used by the Spanish conquistador es in 
 the erection of many of the houses of the modern city. The decisive 
 battle which won the peninsula for the Castilians was fought (in 1540) 
 on the spot where the Cathedral now stands. According to the church 
 historians 200 Spaniards and 40,000 Indians were engaged in a terrific 
 struggle which resulted in victory to the Cross and Santiago. In sober 
 truth this statement is perhaps a thing of romance; 40,000 Indians did 
 perchance scuttle to the woods at the approach of the armor-clad Span- 
 iards with their fire-spitting weapons, and the 400 valientes that remained 
 to face them were no doubt promptly annihilated or converted to Chris- 
 tianity. 
 
 The place rose in importance soon after the Spanish occupation and 
 it was made the see ( sede ) of a bishop in 1561. The modern metropolis 
 is veritably a city of windmills, every house, almost, possessing one or 
 more. The vista across the housetops differs from any other in Mexico. 
 The place has a large Chinese population (perchance the prototypes of 
 the early Mayas), and one of the barrios is inhabited almost solely by 
 
576 Route 69. 
 
 MERIDA 
 
 Plaza. 
 
 <; r ,n-ks. The prettiest suburb is that of Itzimna , reached by tranvia 
 I ! ' i • plan of Merida resembles that of a wheel, the hub being represented 
 l>\ t ! i . * Plaza de la Repiiblica. The calles are fairly broad, paved with 
 asphalt or hard bricks, and cross each other at right angles. Many of 
 thrui bear numbers instead of names, and albeit the system is as clea* 
 •is crystal to the inhabitants, it remains a sort of Chinese puzzle to the 
 stranger, whose despair is crowned by the local directory. It is essen- 
 
 • i ill \ a city of numbers, and a glance at the accompanying plan confirms 
 th- Chinese puzzle idea. The minor numbers begin in the suburbs and 
 travel across town. The streets bearing odd numbers run E. and W.; 
 those running N. and S. carry even numbers. The squares are all num- 
 bered as are the districts, and when one seeks a house of a certain num- 
 ber. in a square with another in a ward of another and in a street bearing 
 -till another, a problem in mathematics is presented which requires a 
 pencil, paper and some calmness to solve. Above some of the streets, 
 di-t ant from the plaza , are arches, near the gateways of which are niches 
 that once held figurines of santos E spaholes. Time was when the streets 
 were designated Dy picturesque ideographs — which have disappeared. 
 The untutored Indians could not read the Spanish numbers or names, so 
 a painted sign or a representative figure was placed in a niche near the 
 m rert corner. Thus, the former Calledel Flamingo had a huge red flamingo 
 painted on one of the corner houses; in the “street of the Elephant” 
 w a# a large wood tusker with an exaggerated trunk; a ludicrous carica- 
 t urc of a crone with immense goggles astride her nose represented the 
 
 <{•■ la Mujer Vieja (street of the old woman), w T hile that of the 
 ' 1'wo Faces ” ( dos caras ) was made plain to the Indios by a human head 
 with a double face. Of the score or more public squares the most at- 
 tractive is the 
 
 Plaza de la Republics (PI. C, 3) — commonly called P. de la Con- 
 rtd u inti , P. Principal, or P. Mayor — which is flanked by the Cathedral 
 m i Bi hop’s Palace, the Government palacio and the Casa de Montejo. 
 N mc parterres of tropical flowers, some fine trees and a band-stand 
 A t « > ' ;n lorn it. In the evening it is thronged with people, and on Sun- 
 il \ i between 10 and 12 a. m. and 8 and 11 p. m. it is the busiest spot 
 im tie- gav city. Next in point of attractiveness is the pretty Plaza de 
 // dohjn hard by, with a bronze statue (the work of the Fundicion Mexi- 
 r oiu ( .f the v aliant General Cepeda; who applied the Reform Law r s to 
 t h- peninsula and drove therefrom (during the reign of the Emperor 
 M i ■ luulian ) the French troops of the Third Napoleon. The plaza is 
 I! - e l by the old Franciscan Church of the Tercer Orden, also called 
 t v h/l> in dr Jesus. In the next street is the quaint, weather-beaten 
 ( - r. h of San Juan de Dios, with a characteristic Catalonian bell-tower, 
 r * 1 1 1 ’ ing imply of a plain wall, with openings in which the bells are 
 h i mi; the Pasco Montejo, flanked by trees and some modern houses, is 
 the favorite boulevard. 
 
 I h<- busine-vs life of the city centres in the vicinity of the Calle 65. 
 1 In private life is focussed, according to the Spanish-Moorish custom, 
 ui tin- inner courts of the houses, of which no city in Mexico can show 
 ■ ai t rai t iyc examples. The houses of Merida have seldom more 
 ’ } ' i t«" f'-rie , and their street fronts are usually simple and unpre- 
 i • mi i. .u- Some except ions to this rule are ornamented with richly carved 
 ' ! "i i "tic taken from the ancient Maya palaces. This blend of the 
 1" 1 ‘ with the Spanish-Moorish architecture is very pleasing. The 
 h" ■ * r** unusually massive (as a protection from the heat) with flat 
 
 ri - ‘ " * which often serve as flower-gardens ( jardines ) and prome- 
 
 Jl 1 • /*» 111 1 Dray with the mold of centuries and stained by the 
 
 h’i Mir of the tropics, some of these fortress-like structures look very 
 m <-- 1 1 • val and romantic. The windows, protected by iron bars, which 
 i l foot or more beyond the wall, are capacious and will permit 
 
 • 1 Du ini n .duct ion of chairs in which the members of the household sit 
 
 the pa ing spectacle. We first enter the (Moorish) Zaguan , 
 a Mi di v. ail. ulc, which is sometimes separated from the patio by an 
 ir a ’ ' )<i (railing) in the form of double gates ( puertas ). The court is un- 
 rovorod nd i flanked on the r. or 1. (oftentimes both) by an arcade 
 (portal) with an awning ( toldo ) of glass ( vidrio ) or flowering vines. If 
 
Cathedral. 
 
 MERIDA 
 
 69. Route. 577 
 
 the house is two stories (de dos pisos ) a wide staircase ascends from the 
 arcade to the living rooms. A one-story house is an entresolada. The rooms 
 opening off the patio have no windows, as a rule, but they obtain all the 
 light and air required through the doors communicating with the court. 
 The patio is sometimes paved with marble, and there is generally a foun- 
 tain (. fuente ) playing in the centre. A movable awning protects it from 
 the rays of the sun (el sol). The patio sometimes forms the reception and 
 living room during the day. The well-to-do furnish it with rush mats, 
 Chinese vases and pianos, and adorn it with hammocks, flowers, palms, 
 climbing plants, parrots and song-birds. Stately peacocks (Pavos reales) 
 stalk gravely about some of the patios. The popular prejudice runs to 
 large rooms with lofty ceilings and cool, tiled floors. Massive wood beams 
 form the ceiling, which is sometimes covered with a coarse cotton cloth, 
 well sized and painted with landscape and other views. Hammocks 
 (p. 584), which swing from large wooden knobs in the wall, are used in 
 lieu of beds. They are sometimes almost as fine as lace, strong, and very 
 long and wide. The Y ucatecos are born and die in hammocks; in the 
 manufacture of which they excel. Merida is a wealthy city, and many 
 of the homes are luxurious. _ The annual Carnival, usually celebrated in 
 March, is a time of great rejoicing. 
 
 The Climate of Merida is hot but healthy. The intense heat of midday 
 is often tempered by a sea breeze, which sometimes blows for days. The 
 months (Mch. and April) which precede the rainy season, are apt to be 
 very trying to the unacclimated. At this season the corn-fields of the 
 country are fired, and this heat is added to that of the sun, which here is 
 very fervent. Winter is the best time for a visit. The temperature 
 throughout the year ranges from 75° to 98° Fahr. The drinking water is 
 obtained from the cenotes , or underground river basins (certain of which 
 are used as bathing places), and from rain-water cisterns. While the water 
 supply is not supposed to come in contact with the sewage, the prudent 
 traveller will drink boiled or bottled waters. 
 
 The Cathedral (facing the Plaza, PI. C, 3), begun in 1561 and completed 
 in 1598 at a cost of $300,000, is dedicated to San Ildefonso, and beside be- 
 ing the handsomest, largest, and richest ch. in the peninsula, it is the most 
 attractive building in Merida. The facade is unusually plain for an old 
 Mexican ch., with two towers three stories high; the right tower contains 
 a very old clock. An inscription above the entrance bears the date 1757 
 and doubtless refers to the completion of the towers and the dedication of 
 the ch. In the centre of the facade is the Mexican coat-of-arms, above a 
 crown and the remains of what once represented the royal insignia of 
 Spain. There are five entrances to the Cathedral (which is 179 ft. wide 
 by 300 ft. long). Surmounting it is a fine cimborio, through the windows 
 of which pours a flood of light. 
 
 The Interior lacks the restless quality and the ornate glitter character- 
 istic of certain Mex. churches, and its immense nave, flanked on either 
 side by six massive piers, give it an air of grandeur and solidity. The 
 tabernacle is modern and inharmonious. The base of the baldachino is 
 of hammered silver. The finest thing in the ch. is the old Churrigueresque 
 (p. cxxxii) reredo , which fills the entire space behind the high altar — com- 
 pleted in 1762. To the right of this is a smaller reredo, richly carved and 
 gilded, which looks down upon many mortuary tablets let into the floor. 
 At the 1. is an altar dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe. Next to this, 
 separated from the ambulatory by a tall iron reja, is the imposing Capilla 
 del Cristo de las Ampollas, the patron saint of the ch. The magnificent 
 crown, valued at $30,000, was stolen from this chapel in 1906, but was 
 recovered, and is now hidden. The Altar de San Ildefonso, that of La 
 Purisima Concepcion, La Virgen de La Luz, and the Chapels of Sehor San 
 Jose and of the Sagrario were recently renovated. On the Altar del Santo 
 Cristo de la Conquista (Holy Christ of the Conquest) is a life-size crucified 
 figure of the blessed Saviour which is said to have been brought over by 
 the Conquistador es and to have served them during the first years of the 
 Conquest. A bronze, life-size figure of Christ faces the quaint pulpit, 
 reached by a short flight of steps. Fourteen polychrome pictures repre- 
 senting the stations of the cross adorn the piers and pilasters of the aisles. 
 The marble floor imparts a sense of coolness to the edifice. The great 
 
Route 69. 
 
 MERIDA 
 
 History. 
 
 w v >n doors, swung on pivots let into soffits, and studded with big bronze 
 b :ire interesting Moresque relics of colonial days. Visitors should 
 
 a.' : i the tower for the sake of the new across the city. The Bishop’s 
 
 1’ i lore El Obi spado) adjoins the Cathedral. The smaller churches of the 
 ci t \ are noteworthy for the simplicity of their adornments. 
 
 La Casa del Conquistador Montejo, now a private dwelling on the 
 
 > -i e of the Pin: a Mayor (PI. C, 3), is the oldest (erected by Montejo the 
 y< >i inner in 1549, and the first Spanish house built in the old Maya city) 
 h .use in the metropolis and the most picturesque. The facade bears the 
 es utcheon of the Montejo family ; on either side of the entrance are 
 crudely carved figures, in stone, of two Spanish knights, clad in the cos- 
 t ante in vogue at the time of the Conquest. The foot of each rests on the 
 head of a conquered Maya Indian. 
 
 El Patacio de Gobierno ( PI. C, 3) or Palacio del Ejecutivo (on the N. side 
 of the Plaza dc la Republica), begun in 1883 and completed in 1892 at a 
 cost of $187,000, is a handsome modern structure in the Renaissance 
 style, and it houses the local government offices. The copper tablet let 
 into the corner of the portales refers to the memorable visit of President 
 P. • firfo Diaz to the Peninsula in Feb., 1906. 
 
 The Mttseo Yucateco, Calles 60 and 65 (PL C, 3), contains an interest- 
 ing collection of monoliths, statues, caryatides, and other curious and 
 well-preserved Maya relics well worth seeing. Open all day free. 
 
 History. “ The first message ever given to the civilized world by Yuca- 
 tan fell beneath the eye of Columbus, on his fourth and last voyage 
 in 1502. Driven by currents out of his southerly course from Santo 
 Domingo, he sighted a group of islands off Honduras and captured a 
 canoe, formed of the trunk of a single tree, eight ft. wide and as long as a 
 g lev. In the middle was an awning of palm-leaves, not unlike those of 
 the Venetian gondolas, under which were the women, children, and all the 
 
 g Is. The canoe was under the direction of 25 Indians. They had cotton 
 
 coverlets and tunics without sleeves, curiously worked and dyed of vari- 
 ous colors the same as are worn in Yucatan to-day), covering for the 
 loins of similar material, large mantles, in which the Indian women 
 wrapped themselves, like the Moorish women of Granada; long swords 
 wit h channels on each side the blade, edged with sharp flints that cut the 
 body as well as steel; hatchets of copper for cutting wood, bells of the 
 same material, and crucibles in which to melt it. For provisions they had 
 such roots and grains as the natives of Hispaniola (Haiti) eat, a sort of 
 
 im* madeof maize, and great quantities of almonds of the kind used by 
 the pe« pie of New Spain for money. The Spaniards were struck with the 
 personal modesty of these Indians, in which they greatly excelled the 
 native- of the islands. Columbus sailed southward; how much better 
 w . : it hi ve been for him had he sailed west! Within a day or two he 
 would have arrived at Yucatan; the discovery of Mexico and the other 
 opulent countries of New Spain would have necessarily followed; the 
 
 > era < Mean would have been disclosed to him, and a succession of 
 
 I'-ndi i ii-coveries would have shed fresh glory on his declining age, 
 
 u of its -inking amidst gloom, neglect, and disappointment.” 
 
 In 1 5 Juan de Solis entered the Gulf of Honduras and saw the east 
 r. -• of Yucat an, hut did not land. In 151S Hernandez de Cordoba sailed 
 with J i in <l> Grijalva and coasted the entire northern and western shores 
 o: the peninsula. On this voyage they touched at Campeche and dis- 
 cover. j tv-u Cruz. The latter proved so rich that “all the captains and 
 
 0 Mm r- went thither,” and Yucatan remained comparatively unnoticed 
 
 f< r • , de after its discovery. In 1526 the gallant Conquistador , Don 
 h de M ,>ntejo, obtained a grant from the King of Spain for the 
 
 « ■ i j ;. -t and colonization of Yucatan, and he sailed from Seville, with 
 f o ' ;‘H v* '-—cl—, toward the end of 1527. The squadron reached the 
 
 1 tid of < - ■ ’ ini. then the coast in the following year, and Montejo took 
 
 p - ion of the territory in the name of the Spanish king. The Mayas 
 
 . .u i \ lumfl Cuz and Etd Cch (land of turkeys and deer). When 
 
 M miard- landed the natives were struck by their strange language, 
 • t hey c\< laimed, Ouyouckatan 1 — hear them speak! To the Castilians 
 
 bene 
 
 peak! 
 
 Dorians believe the name Yucatan is derived from the Yuca, 
 tan, or land of the yuca. 
 
Mestizas. 
 
 THE MAYAS 
 
 69. Route. 579 
 
 this word sounded so much like Yucatan that they called the country bv 
 that name. The Yncatecos were terrified at the appearance of the 400 
 mailed strangers, armed with fire and mounted on ferocious animals 
 (horses) and they fled at their approach. Later, they regained courage, 
 and from that date to the great battle (1540) of Tihoo ( Merida ) the 
 Spaniards were fighting almost constantly. When they finally triumphed 
 they found that this country, which had been so bravely defended by the 
 natives, contained not a single mine of gold or silver; nothing to reward 
 them for their conquest. Had not gold been the shibboleth of the valiant 
 Montejo, he might have solaced himself with the fact that in subduing 
 Yucatan, he opened to the world a land thought by many to have been 
 the cradle of the human race. Within its borders are the ruins of three 
 score ancient cities whose origin is shrouded in the deepest mystery. Says 
 Stephens: “They do not resemble the works of Greek or Roman; there is 
 nothing in Europe like them. They are different from the works of any 
 other known people, of a new order, and entirely and absolutely anoma- 
 lous: they stand alone.” The Spaniards found the land inhabited by a 
 diversity of tribes, but all speaking one tongue, the Maya. Says one 
 authority: “The most ancient traditions seem to point to two distinct 
 immigrations into the peninsula; but it is usually conceded that there 
 existed, in that portion of Central America where Yucatan, Guatemala, 
 and Southern Mexico come together, a great and potent theocratic 
 empire. Mayapan , about 30 M. S. of Merida , was the seat of the ancient 
 Maya empire, and the city was called (by early Spanish writers on Yuca- 
 tan) El Pendon de los Mayas — the banner city of the Mayas.” 
 
 The Mayas. At the period of the Conquest the Maya tribes, sup- 
 posedly the first inhabitants, occupied the Peninsula of Yucatan and a 
 considerable portion of the neighboring territory to the S. and W.; they 
 are said to have numbered about two million souls. That they possessed 
 marked characteristics and were an intelligent people, their temples and 
 their history prove. Their origin is largely a matter of conjecture. One 
 account (D. G. Brinton, American Hero Myths , p. 145) connects them 
 with the history of the god and culture hero Itzamna , and derives an 
 important element or division of the race from the east, where they are 
 said to have come across — or rather through — the ocean, thus forcibly 
 recalling the story of Atlantis. “The more probable derivation is, how- 
 ever, from the west, as tradition, myth, art, and geographical conditions 
 point in this direction more decidedly than in any other. It appears that 
 there are few ties of language with the Aztecs or other Mexican peoples, 
 though there are numerous and striking analogies in art and customs, 
 and it is not improbable that in the course of their history the Mayas 
 have come into close contact with the great tribes of the Plateau of 
 Mexico. Indeed, all may have had a common origin to the north in 
 Mexico, or even beyond the Rio Grande. In the culture scale these people 
 stood at the head of the American tribes. They were still, properly 
 speaking, barbarians, but in several respects seemed to be on the very 
 threshold of civilization. Their status may be compared to that of the 
 Greeks and Egyptians immediately preceding the dawn of history, and 
 we may assume that they were, as measured by Aryan rates of progress, 
 perhaps not more than a few thousand years behind the foremost nations 
 of the world in the great procession of races from savagery toward en- 
 lightenment. It is certain that they were already enjoying a rude system 
 of historic records, and were the only nation on the Western continent 
 that had made any considerable headway in the development of a pho- 
 netic system of writing. Their hieroglyphics occupy a place, not yet well 
 defined, somewhere along the course of progress from pictograph to let- 
 ter, and are consequently difficult of interpretation. There is no doubt, 
 however, that an age of literature was actually, though slowly, dawning 
 in America when the shock of Conquest came.” ( William Holmes.) Comp. 
 Literature, p. cliv. 
 
 The Mestizas (masculine Mestizos ), half-castes, form a large and pic- 
 turesque portion of the population of the Peninsula. They are noted for 
 cleanliness and personal -modesty. The union of the Spanish and Indian 
 races produced this mixed people, who rank among the handsomest in 
 Mexico. They are a gentle, docile, satisfied and pleasure-loving race, 
 
5S0 Route 70. MERIDA TO UXMAL 
 
 which retains many of the customs and dances, and particularly the 
 style of dress, of bygone days. Many of the women are beautiful bru- 
 nette* with rich complexions, fine black eyes and hair, superb teeth, and 
 sweet, pensive expressions. 
 
 Ruined Cities abound in Yucatan, and most of them remain unmo- 
 lested and unvisited in the silence and obscurity of the wilderness. The 
 natives avoid them with superstitious fear, and few travellers care to 
 brave the discomforts attending a visit to them. The Yucalecos are 
 apparently indifferent to the touristic value of this interesting and his- 
 toriral residua of a vanished race, and practically no efforts are made to 
 attract travellers hither. Only a small part of the ruins have been extri- 
 cated from the dense underbrush which has covered them for centuries, 
 and it is thought that an almost unbroken line of deserted cities stretches 
 between Yucatan and the primeval forests beyond the frontier of Guate- 
 mala. The most important of the ruins known are those of Uxmal (see 
 below); next in historical interest is Chichen-Itza, referred to at p. 581. 
 '! he knowledge of the laws of architecture possessed by some of the 
 builders of the early Yucatan cities was considerable, and the structures 
 themselves are amazing relics of what was indubitably a highly devel- 
 op 1 d civilization. That this degree of progress should exist here, perhaps 
 centuries before Columbus discovered America, is all the more singular 
 and significant. 
 
 The student may consult Bernal Diaz, Historia V erdadera de la Con- 
 quista ; Cogolludo, Historia de Yucatan (the best historian of the 
 Peninsula); Yucatan , by Jose I. Novelo (Merida); Historia del Descubri- 
 viicnto y Conquista de Yucatan , by Licenciate Juan Francisco Molina 
 Solis (Merida, 1896); Historia de Yucatan Bajo la Domination Espafiola, 
 by the same author (Merida, 1904); the various archaeological books 
 written about the Peninsula by Dr. Le Plongeon are interesting; Inci- 
 dents of Travel in Yucatan, by John L. Stephens (N. Y. 1843); Inci- 
 dents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan, by the same 
 author (X. Y. 1867). The two latter are the best books extant on the 
 ruined cities of Yucatan and Chiapas. 
 
 70. From Merida, via Muna, to Uxmal. 
 
 59 Kilom. to Muna by Rly. (F. C. Unidos de Yucatan) in 2\ hrs., 1 
 train daily, fare, see p. xxxi. The train usually leaves Merida (from the 
 Esttirinn Peninsular) at 3.30 p. m. and reaches Muna at 5.10 p. m. Here 
 a night’s lodging must be obtained by favor, as there is no hotel. The 
 distance from Muna to the ruins is about 12 kilom. No fixed prices for 
 conveyances. Horses can sometimes be obtained by the day at S5 each. 
 A guide (indispensable) and his horse wfill cost as much more. A volan 
 or ralesn (a two-wheeled vehicle something like a Cuban volante) holding 
 •1 persons can usually be obtained, if spoken for well in advance, at a 
 c.»st of about S10 for the round trip. This does not include food (which 
 must be carried along) or guide. Each volan is supplied with a driver. 
 A good horse and volan will land one at the ruins in 2 hrs. The return 
 journey can be made the same day. Rest in Muna overnight and return 
 to Merida the next morning. X in the Maya tongue is pronounced ush, 
 consequently Uxmal is ushmal. The word was formerly written Oxmal, 
 and means “three times destroyed.” 
 
 The journey from Muna is across a semi- wild country of 
 forest and plain. The region is infested with ticks, and the 
 traveller is cautioned to be on his guard against these little 
 demons. The Ruins stand in the midst of a plain flanked by 
 a range of hills trending from N.-E. to the S.-W. 
 
 “ The dense wild wood that hid the rpval seat, 
 
 The lofty palms that choked the winding street, 
 
 Man’s hand hath felled, and now, in day’s fair light, 
 
 Uxmal’s broad ruins burst upon the sight.” 
 
MERIDA TO CHICHEN-ITZA 71. Rte. 581 
 
 Ages of neglect have failed to efface the traces of taste and enlight- 
 enment shown in the construction of these deserted palaces. Time brings 
 so few changes in the unpeopled forests of Yucatan, and the climate is 
 so benign, that the ruins have perhaps altered but little in the last cen- 
 tury. The traveller will be interested chiefly in visiting the structures 
 known as the House of the Dwarf ( Casa del Enano ), H. of the Nuns 
 ( Casa de las Monjas), Turtles ( Casa de las Tortugas), Pigeons ( Casa de 
 las Palomas ), and of the Governor ( Casa del Gobernador). The strange 
 and incomprehensible designs carved on these edifices are extraordina- 
 rily rich and complex, and they alternate with attractive ornaments of 
 elephants, leopards, leaves, flowers and a peculiar and striking assort- 
 ment of grecques. There is no rudeness or barbarity in the design or 
 proportions of these strange and silent palacios, and the traveller is 
 bewildered at the relics of a civilization which flourished here perhaps 
 seons of ages before Columbus dreamed of a new world. The best de- 
 tailed description of these ruins will be found in John L. Stephens’ In- 
 cidents of Travel in Y ucatan. 
 
 71. From Merida, via Citas, to Chichen-Itza. 
 
 143 Kilom., to Citas (which on the rly. time-card is spelled with the 
 C inverted) by railway ( F errocarriles Unidos de Y ucatan, Division Este ) 
 in 4 hrs. Fare see p. xxxi. Trains leave from the Estacidn Peninsular. 
 The trip is even more difficult than that to Uxrnal (p. 580), and it should 
 not be undertaken without careful consideration and preparation. The 
 train usually leaves Merida in the early a. m. (6.30) and reaches Citas 
 about 10 a. m. There a volan, mules or horses must be obtained (not 
 always easy). The approximate cost of a volan for 3 days is $20: for a 
 horse or a mule, for the same time, $10. Guide (necessary) extra, ac- 
 cording to the agreement the traveller is able to make with him. Food 
 must be taken along. The distance from Citas to Chicken is about 30 
 kilom., and by starting immediately after the train reaches Citas the 
 traveller can, by hard riding, arrive at the ruins the same evening. The 
 roads are execrable. At Chicken the U. S. Consul (at Progreso ) has pro- 
 vided a so-called Guest-house, unfurnished, in which travellers are at 
 liberty (no charge) to swing their hammocks. The latter are a necessity 
 in Yucatan, where a myriad troublesome insects thrive in the tropical 
 climate. The 2d day is generally spent at the ruins, and the start home 
 is made from Chicken early in the morning of the 3d day, to overtake 
 the train leaving Citas for Merida at 1.53 p. m. Food is hard to obtain 
 all along the journey, and this, with a camping-outfit and hammocks, 
 should be taken from Merida. 
 
 Local conditions improve steadily and ere long these ruins, among the 
 most interesting on the continent, can be visited without the privation and 
 discomfort which hitherto has attended a trip to them. Consult the hotel 
 manager before planning a trip. 
 
 The Ruins of Chichen-Itza (a Maya word meaning “by the well of 
 the Itzaes ”), the ancient capital of the ltzaes (after they had been driven 
 from Itzamal, and before they sought seclusion in the forests of Guate- 
 mala), are located near a sacred cenote (comp. p. 582) from which the 
 ruins derive their name. Next to Uxmal (p. 580) they are the largest 
 and most important group of ruins in Yucatan. They stand in a wooded 
 country, in a glade which occupies an area of about two miles. The most 
 conspicuous building is the Carcel (prison). The so-called House of 
 the Nuns ( Casa de las Monjas), so named for the many small rooms 
 which resemble convent-cells, is a magnificent pile, almost covered with 
 intricate tracery, bas-reliefs, and hieroglyphics. El Gimnasio (the gym- 
 nasium) io adorned with a sculptured border of serpents and a series of 
 great stone rings, several ft. in diameter, set in the walls. The hiero- 
 glyphic carvings are wonderful and beautiful, and the mural paintings, 
 representing warriors in battle and events in the lives of the various 
 iulers of Chicken, are artistic in execution, and the finest that adorn the 
 walls of any building in the country. A procession of lynxes and tigers 
 ornament the cornice of one edifice, while sculptured slabs and pillars 
 are scattered profusely over the ground. The paintings on the walls 
 
Rte. 72. 
 
 GULF STATE OF YUCATAN 
 
 582 
 
 of the Cfi uhen-Itza ruins are conceded to be the most unique and beau- 
 ti: ;j i . found on any ruins in Ameriea. Various attempts have been 
 i! .. to reconstruct the history of the highly civilized race which built 
 tin palaces, from the scattered fragments left by tradition and from 
 th mural paintings and hieroglyphics, but as yet with little success. 
 
 The predominant character of these and similar Maya structures is 
 that all are built upon an artificial elevation: a pyramid or truncate 
 supporting a building more or less vast and grand. The walls are 
 g. nerally of great thickness, many are faced on the interior with carved 
 s? .in*, and many also present a rich profusion of adornments, sculptured 
 in i relief upon their faces. Busts and human heads, figures of animals, 
 and hieroglyphs which no one has yet been able to decipher, constitute 
 in general these adornments. The finest workmanship is displayed in 
 broad and elevated cornices; and the spectator does not know which 
 tn admire the more in the artist: the prodigious number of small pieces 
 with which he composed the work, or the beauty and accuracy to nature 
 of the scenes represented. The doors are generally low, and the lintels of 
 wood, some richly sculptured. The ceiling is formed by the peculiar 
 American arch (without a keystone), and, owing to their construction, 
 not much breadth can be secured, but great length. 
 
 The splendid statue of Chac-Mool , The Tiger King (now in the Museum 
 at Mexico City and described at p. 305), was unearthed here, in the midst 
 of a dense wood, eight meters below the surface. For a detailed descrip- 
 tion of the Chichen-Ilza ruins consult Stephens’ Incidents of Travel in 
 Yucatan, or the works of Dr. and Madame Le Plongeon. See Biblio- 
 graphy, p. ccxxxix. 
 
 72. The Gulf State of Yucatan. 
 
 The Gull State of Yucatan, in the Peninsula of the same name (which 
 includes the TerrUorio of Quintana Roo ) with a total area of 91,201 sq. 
 kilom. an 1 a population of 315,000, is the greatest Tieneguen-producing 
 n-gion of the world, and one of the most interesting of the Mexican 
 
 1 . i ns. It is bounded on the N. by the Gulf of Mexico, on the E. 
 
 th*- Caribbean Sea, on the S. by British Honduras and the Republic 
 of < iuatemala, and on the W. by Campeche, which once formed a part 
 of it The Peninsula is an immense plain which, starting from the coast- 
 line, rises toward the interior to a height of about 200 ft. In the N.-W. 
 th* soil is of a dry, calcareous and rocky formation; it was proverbially 
 -ril<- »int il the exploitation of henequen transformed it into one of the 
 rich* t regions (financially) of the Repub. The fertility of the land in- 
 cn - toward the N.-E., and the S. region abounds in virgin forests 
 of valuable dye- .and cabinet-woods, and in stretches of land suitable for 
 th ( dt ure of all the vegetable species. This region is the home of the 
 magnificent Yucatan turkey (Mdeagris Ocellata , Mex. Guajolote — in- 
 tr > luee i hence into the N. and to Europe) conceded to be the most 
 bv uitiful of the turkey familv. The metallic sheen and the lustre of the 
 plumage of thi» huge bird is thoroughly splendid. The venerated Quetzal , 
 the Mexican bird of paradise, noted for its exquisite plumage, is also 
 f und here The Quintana Roo region w T as long the stronghold of re- 
 bellious Indians w ho for many years maintained a desultory war with 
 the Government. 
 
 \ peculiarit y of Yucatan is the absence of surface rivers: under-ground 
 •ream- exist, and drinking water is obtained from wells sunk to connect 
 with them. The entire Peninsula is one large table of coral formation, 
 beneath the surface of which the streams are found. These break out at 
 interv: 1- into caves and caverns, formed by earthquakes, erosion or the 
 pr* --nre of the water, though sometimes the supply is due to infiltration 
 w ter into natural grottos in the coral rock. The Indians. Cen- 
 tura - ago, marked the course of these subterranean streams by heaps 
 of Ties, and their cities were always built near the water-caves, as is 
 now shown by their ruins. These caves, where the rivers appear to the 
 light of dav. are called cenotes. There are many in Yucatan, and they 
 form one of the natural curiosities of the country. They are used as wells 
 
Cozumel. 
 
 HENEQUEN 
 
 72. Rte. 583 
 
 and as bathing places. In Merida (p. 574) they lie from 20 to 40 ft. be- 
 low the surface, and many of the houses have pumps connected with 
 them. The traveller to Yucatan should make it a point to visit* one of 
 these curious water-caves. A locally renowned cenote is that on the Ha- 
 cienda of Mucuyche. “ It is a cavern 50 ft. deep, broken down at one side, 
 forming an arch of limestone with almost every shape of stalagmite and 
 stalactite, the roof full of holes, in which are the nests of hundreds of Swal- 
 lows and other birds. It is reached by a flight of 50 steps which descend 
 to it, and the overhanging rock is high enough to give an air of grandeur 
 and wildness to it. At midday the grotto is impenetrable to the sun’s 
 rays. At the bottom, resting upon a bed of white limestone rock, is a 
 still and deep pool of crystal water. It is a very creation of romance; a 
 bathing place for Diana and her nymphs. Grecian poets never imagined 
 so beautiful a scene. The natives delight to resort to these cool cenotes 
 at midday, and many of the pools are used as swimming places. A 
 strange bird, called the Toh, lives in the cenotes. It is a species of 
 Momotus, about a foot in length, with fine silky feathers and a very cu- 
 rious tail formed of two long feathers, which are stripped nearly to 
 iheir tip, only the naked shafts remaining.” 
 
 The Fauna and Flora, remarkably rich and varied, embrace almost 
 all the species found throughout the Repub. Turtles ( tortugas ) abound 
 along the coast and produce the prized tortoise-shell ( carey ). The woods 
 are filled with beautiful birds, and Flamingoes, Pelicans, Sea-Gulls, Cor- 
 morants, Terns and many aquatic birds people the shores. The splendid 
 forests abound in valuable woods, including the mastic ( Pistacia lentis - 
 cus ), logwood (comp. p. 569) and many dye-woods and medicinal plants. 
 Fine sponges are found in the sea contiguous to the coast. Droughts 
 (las sequias ) are frequent and very destructive. 
 
 Cozumel Island (20 by 60 kilom.), discovered by Fernandez de 
 Cordoba in 1517, is about 20 kilom. from the E. coast of Yucatan, and 
 is celebrated for its many ruined temples, and for fine woods, wax and 
 honey. Cape Catoche , at its N.-E. extremity, was the first point of the 
 then unknown kingdom of Mexico, touched at by the Spaniards, and 
 here the first Mass was said on Mexican soil. The island was once a Mecca 
 for Maya and other Indian pilgrims. It is now almost depopulated and 
 given over to fishermen and woodcutters. 
 
 Isla Mujeres, about 6 M. from the coast, to the N. of Cozumel, 
 formerly contained many Indian temples. The name was derived from 
 the many terra-cotta idols, in female form, found by the Conquerors. 
 
 The most important industry in Yucatan is the production and ex- 
 portation of the fibre of the Agave Sisalense, called also Henequen, 
 Sisal-grass, Sisal-hemp, and Sisal. It derived the latter name (used chiefly 
 abroad) from the fact that for many years it was exported through the 
 Yucatan Port of Sisal, until 1871 the chief entry port of the Peninsula. 
 It is often called the ‘‘Green Gold of Yucatan.” Three varieties, all of 
 which grow wild in the forests, are known to the Y ucatecos ; the chelem, 
 the cahum and the citamci. The two varieties of the cultivated plant are, 
 the yaxci, or green fibre, and sacci, or white fibre. The latter produces 
 the henequen of commerce. The wild chelem is supposed to be the pro- 
 genitor of the cultivated sacci. The fibre of the cahum is long and silky, 
 but its brittle nature renders it useless. The sacci fibre was known to 
 the ancients, who twisted it into ropes and used them for hauling to the 
 summits of their pyramids the great stone blocks one sees to-day amid 
 the ruined cities of the forests. 
 
 The plants are produced from seeds, from cuttings, and from sprouts 
 called hijos (children). A field is cut, the surface is burned, and three 
 months or so before the rainy season the hijos (usually 18 to 20 inches 
 high) that have sprouted from the parent plant are rooted up and thrown 
 into a heap, where they lie exposed to the weather for a couple of months. 
 When they present a dried and decayed appearance they are gathered, 
 carried to the cleared field and planted in rows about 4 yards apart, each 
 plant about 7 ft. removed from its brother. About 1,100 plants are gen- 
 erally placed to the acre. The space between the rows facilitates cutting 
 and carrying off the plants and prevents the wounding of the leaves by 
 the spines and thorns of adjacent plants. Six years after planting the 
 
584 Rte. 72. 
 
 HAMMOCKS 
 
 C hem ax. 
 
 1,mv«-s begin to yield fibre. The plant grows in the form of a sharp, con- 
 1 , tl -pike which springs from the centre, and which is soon encircled by 
 g, sw rd-like leaves which radiate from it. A ma- 
 t r- pi t ! it will hear from 6 to 8 rings with from 10 to 15 radiating leaves. 
 
 1 hr older the leaves, the stronger the fibre. The two lower (or elder) 
 are cut out each year, and the cutting and developing is almost 
 continuous. The average productive life of the plant is ten years. At 
 t In* rnd of this period a hard, wood-like bar, called in Spanish, Varejon, 
 and in Maya, bob, grows out of the centre to a height of 15 ft. or more. 
 Sprouts grow from the apex of this bar, but they require from two to 
 three years longer to mature than do the hijos cut away from the base. 
 The leaves are cut out with the corba, a machete-like instrument, weigh- 
 ing about l) lbs. with a hooked end. (A short, sharp spade is used in 
 e partsof Mexico.) Attached to thecorfra is an ingenious device which 
 t it - off the side spines without injuring the fibre. The spines with which 
 the edges of the leaves are armed are mildly poisonous and care has to be 
 exercised. Cutting is done by contract, Indian families, including small 
 children, being employed. The leaves are collected in huge ricks and 
 taken to the scraping mill. A somewhat complicated decorticator then 
 extracts the fibre from the pulp, and it is bleached, dried, pressed into 
 bales and prepared for shipment. The production of the fibre is very 
 profitable. There are about 400 henequen plantations in the Peninsula; 
 t he planters are called henequeneros; the product ready for export is known 
 as h emquin en rama; about 600,000 bales, valued at about forty millions 
 ol m KM, are annually exported. 
 
 The splendid Hammocks hamacas) for which Yucatan is celebrated 
 are usually very long and wide and are made of the finest sacci fibre. It 
 l- not always possible to buy them, off hand, as they are generally made 
 t<> order, the best coming from private families, where the ladies make 
 them in lieu of doing knitting or embroidery. In some of the small towns 
 hammock-making is almost as much of a home industry as watch-making 
 i- in Switzerland. A hammock made by deft and loving fingers, to be 
 pr«*>ented as a token of esteem, is a thing of beauty and utility. The 
 finest in the country are made in the little town of Chemax. They are as 
 stout as the strongest linen, yet filmy and lace-like. Prices vary accord- 
 ing to quality; the coarser ones sell for about 810-820, a fairly good one 
 run be bought for 850, and a very fine one will cost hundreds of pesos. 
 1 be I test are washable and will last a life-time. Hammocks bear the same 
 relation to Yucatan that fine hats do to Panama. In the suburbs of 
 M> via are factories where cordage, coarse cloth, saddle-bags, twine, 
 ro:ir-<* hammocks, and a multitude of articles are made from the useful 
 hcnxjw'n. Pretty Mestiza girls tend the machines. Foreigners are gen- 
 cr.illy expected to pay more than the natives, and purchases should not 
 be made before securing the advice of some friend as to values. The 
 hamacas matrimonial es are wide enough for a half-dozen persons to lie 
 acr<>-- them at a time. The finer grades make useful and beautiful 
 souvenirs. 
 
INDEX 
 
 Consult the Index at p. vi. Note that in the Index below, everything 
 in and about Mexico City comes under that head; and this also applies to 
 all the other chief cities. 
 
 Abasolo 104. 
 
 Ac&mbaro 108, 200. 
 Acapulco 460. 
 
 Acatzingo 525. 
 Acolhuans 426. 
 
 Acolman 4266. 
 
 Agua Caliente de Baca 
 62. 
 
 Agua Fria 548. 
 Aguascalientes City 45. 
 — State 47. 
 
 Aguas Termales de Co- 
 in an j ilia 126. 
 Ahuacatlan, Distrito de 
 91. 
 
 Ahuaializapan 490. 
 Ahuizotl 530. 
 
 Ajuchitlan 459. 
 
 Ajusco 434. 
 
 Aldama, Juan 106. 
 Alfalfa 33. 
 
 Axolotl 214, 500. 
 
 Axtla 49. 
 
 Ayo el Chico 149. 
 
 Aztec 426. 
 
 Aztlan 42. 
 
 Babiocari 81. 
 
 Bahamas xxxvia. 
 
 Baja California 84. 
 Bajio, El 127. 
 
 Balleza 104. 
 
 Balsas 458. 
 
 — , Rio 224, 459. 
 
 Barca, La 150. 
 Baroyeca 83. 
 
 Barra, La 49. 
 
 Barranca de Cobre 61. 
 Barrientos Tunnel 122. 
 Barroteran 99. 
 Basaseachic, Cascada de 
 30. 
 
 Alhondiga de Grana- 
 ditas 139. 
 
 Allende, San Miguel de 
 105. 
 
 Alligator Lakes 548. 
 Almagre Grande 79. 
 Altamira 51. 
 
 Altar, Rio 80. 
 
 Altata 90. 
 
 Alvarado 481. 
 
 — , Pedro de 163, 481. 
 Amacusac, Rio 456. 
 Amatlan 483, 487. 
 Amealco 120. 
 Amecameca 462. 
 Amozoc 524. 
 
 Antequera 530. 
 
 Apaches 31. 
 
 Apam 497. 
 
 Apasco 122. 
 
 Apatzingo 459. 
 
 Apizaco 425, 427, 497. 
 Arbol de las Manitas 
 543. 
 
 Ardilla, La 79. 
 
 Arispe 82. 
 
 Armeria River 188. 
 Asientos 48. 
 
 Asuncion 529. 
 
 Atencingo 522. 
 Atenquiqui Barranca 
 182, 184. 
 
 Atequisa 152, 159. 
 Atlixco 521. 
 
 Atotouilco 105, 151. 
 
 — , Lago de 183. 
 
 Atoyac 485. 
 
 Axayacatl 500. 
 
 Basalenque, Diego 202, 
 207. 
 
 Batopilas 30. 
 
 Bautista, Fray Juan 207 
 — , San Juan 560. 
 Bavispe, Rio 80. 
 Beaumont 220. 
 
 Bee 30. 
 
 Begona 107. 
 
 Bejuco Barranca 184. 
 Beltran Barranca 182. 
 Benito, San 563. 
 
 Benson 74. 
 
 Bermejillo 34. 
 
 Bird Life 549, 552. 
 Bisbee 70. 
 
 Blanquillo River 563. 
 Boca del Monte 495. 
 Boca Dulce 79. 
 
 Bocoyna Canon 61. 
 Bolanos 96. 
 
 Bolonchen, Partido de 
 570. 
 
 Bolonchenticul 570. 
 Bolson de Mapimi 29, 
 34. 
 
 Botany Bay 97. 
 Bougainvillaea 442. 
 Bravo, Valle de 198. 
 Buena Vista Battle- 
 field 15. 
 
 Bufa, La 38. 
 
 Cabo de Haro 78. 
 Cacahuamilpa 454. 
 Cacao 552. 
 
 Cacti 29. 
 
 Cadereyta 120. 
 
 Caimanes, Laguna de 
 los 188. 
 
 Cajijitlan, Lago de 182. 
 Calabozal 44. 
 
 Calandrias 552. 
 
 Calera 38. 
 
 California, Lower 84. 
 
 — , Gulf of 84. 
 
 Calvillo 47. 
 
 Calzontzin 218. 
 
 Camino Real 558. 
 Campeche City 570. 
 
 — State 569. 
 Campephilus imperiales 
 
 58. 
 
 Canal del Infiernillo 80. 
 Cananea 71. 
 
 — Consolidated Copper 
 Co. 72. 
 
 Canas 185. 
 
 Candelaria 24. 
 
 Canon de Marfil 138. 
 Cantabria 213. 
 
 Cape San Lucas 84. 
 Caracolillo 228. 
 
 Carbo 76. 
 
 Carmen 569. 
 
 Carpintero 185. 
 
 Casas G.randes 54. 
 
 — de Piedras 567. 
 Casitas Canon 75. 
 Casones 481. 
 
 Castillo, El 161. 
 
 Catorce, Real de 16. 
 Cave Dwellers 59. 
 Cazadero 132. 
 
 Century Plant 498. 
 Cerro Alto 423. 
 
 — del Borrego 493. 
 
 — de las Campanas 119. 
 
 — del Cubilete 126. 
 
 — de los Gallos 46. 
 
 — Loco 559. 
 
 — del Mercado 103. 
 
 — de Montezuma 106. 
 
 — Prieto 75. 
 
 — de San Miguel 523. 
 
 — del Tesoro 135. 
 Chacaltianguis 483. 
 Chacamas 563. 
 Chachipehuela 185. 
 Chac-Mool 215, 305,582. 
 Chacuaco 44. 
 
 Chalcas 43. 
 Chalchihuites 102. 
 Chaleo 199. 
 
 Chamacuero 107. 
 Chapala, Lago de 151, 
 
 — Village 152. 
 
5S6 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Chapaltecos 156. 
 Charcas 16. 
 
 Charcoal 434. 
 
 Charenses 226. 
 
 Chareos 226. 
 
 ( 201 . 
 
 Chenes, Los 570. 
 
 Chcran 223. 
 Chiapanecos 565. 
 Chiapas State 565. 
 
 — Indians 565. 
 
 Chichd 565. 
 
 Chichimecas 43, 134. 
 Chicomoztoc 43. 
 
 Chietla 522. 
 
 Chihuahua City 25, 63. 
 
 — Dogs 31. 
 
 — State 29. 
 
 Chihuitldn 542. 
 
 Chilli 424. 
 
 Chilpancingo de los 
 Bravos 459. 
 
 Chiinal, Salto de 465. 
 Chinipas 32. 
 
 Chinos 93. 
 
 Chipi-chipi 504. 
 Chirinos, P. A. 82. 
 Chivatcra 72. 
 
 Chi vela Pass 554. 
 Cholula 518. 
 
 Chone 121. 
 Chontalcuatlan, Rio 
 456. 
 
 Chuhuichupa 55. 
 Chulavete 96. 
 Chupaderos Meteorite 
 34. 
 
 Chuviscar 56. 
 
 ( Sbuta Mts. 75. 
 
 C gurrero Mine 63. 
 Cima, La 435. 
 
 Cintalapa Valley 559. 
 Citlaltepetl 496. 
 
 < Juarez 22, 51. 
 
 — Perforada 45. 
 
 — Porfirio Diaz 99. 
 
 Cl oof as 96. 
 
 (’liff Dwellers 02. 
 Coahuayana, ltio 224. 
 Conhuila 13. 
 
 Coat epee 506. 
 
 Coate telco 456. 
 
 Coat znroalcos 550. 
 
 Coca 553. 
 
 Cochineal 543. 
 Cock-fight 24. 
 
 ( '< >< namit 'I n c 482 . 
 Cocospera 75. 
 
 Coffee 489. 
 
 Coincho Canon 209. 
 Coix Calachryma Jobi 
 59. 
 
 Colhuns 43. 
 
 Colima Citv 185. 
 
 — River 186. 
 
 Colima State 189. 
 
 — , Volcan de 186. 
 Colliman, Kingdom of 
 190. 
 
 Colonia Juarez 52. 
 Colonias de Galeana 
 55. 
 
 Colorada, La 37. 
 Colorado River 85. 
 Columbia Consolidated 
 Mines 75. 
 
 Comala 190. 
 
 Comitan 559, 565. 
 Comondu 84. 
 Compostela, Distrito de 
 91. 
 
 Concepcion 13. 
 
 Conchos River 56. 
 Conejos 34. 
 
 Conuy 227. 
 
 Coras 95. 
 
 Cordoba 486, 544. 
 Corupo, San Antonio 
 223. 
 
 Cosolapa, Rio 546. 
 Cotton 102. 
 
 Coyol Real 508. 
 
 Coyuca de Catalan 459. 
 Cresta de Gallo 423. 
 Creston 423. 
 
 Cruces, Sierra de las 199. 
 Cruz, Fray A. de la 207. 
 
 — Juan I. de la 465. 
 
 — de Marla 222. 
 
 — del Marquez 435. 
 Cuatro Cienegas 99. 
 Cuauhtemotzin 134. 
 Cuauhtitlan 137. 
 Cuauhtla 466. 
 Cuauhtlixco 466. 
 
 Cuba xxx vid 
 Cuernavaca 436. 
 
 — Acapacingo 452. 
 
 — Acueducto 447. 
 Arbol de Dinamita 
 
 437. 
 
 Atlacomulco 451. 
 Borda Garden 441. 
 Borde, J. de la 441. 
 Bougainvillaea 442. 
 Cacahuamilpa Cav- 
 erns 454. 
 
 Capillade Guadalupe 
 447. 
 
 Casa de Maximillano 
 452. 
 
 Cathedral 444. 
 Chamilpa 449. 
 Colonia Miraval 448. 
 Flor de la Noche 
 Buena 442. 
 
 Fuente, La 450. 
 Hacienda de Buena 
 Vista 449. 
 
 Cortes, 453. 
 
 Cuernavaca : 
 
 Hotels 436. 
 
 Huichilac 449. 
 
 Iglesia Catolica Mexi- 
 cana 447. 
 
 — de Chapultepec 
 450. 
 
 — de los Tepetates 
 447. 
 
 Mercado 440. 
 
 Morelos, Jose Marla 
 438. 
 
 Museo de Tepoztlan 
 453. 
 
 Nuestra Senora de 
 Guadalupe 446. 
 
 Palacio de Cort4s 
 437. 
 
 Pantedn 450. 
 
 Parque Carmen Ro- 
 mero Rubio de Diaz 
 447. 
 
 Plaza de Congreso 
 440. 
 
 — de Cortes 447. 
 
 — de Zaragoza 450. 
 
 Pottery 450. 
 
 San Antonio, Church 
 of 449. 
 
 — Salto de 449. 
 
 Statue to Carlos Pa- 
 checo 440. 
 
 Strychnos Nux- Vom- 
 ica 437. 
 
 Tears of Job 437. 
 
 Tepoxtepec, Teocalli 
 de 452. 
 
 Tercer Orden de San 
 Francisco 446. 
 
 Teutli, Cerro de 453. 
 
 Tlahuicas 437. 
 
 Tlaltenango 448. 
 
 — Virgen del Pueblo 
 de 448. 
 
 Tulyahualco 454. 
 
 Xochicalco, Cerro de 
 453. 
 
 Yoloxochitl 443. 
 
 Cucuji 568. 
 
 Cuilty 25. 
 
 Cuitlatecos 226. 
 
 Cuitzeo 201, 225. 
 
 Culebras 120. 
 
 Culiacan Rosales 90. 
 
 Cumaripa 78. 
 
 Cumbre, La 201. 
 
 Cupatltzio 230. 
 
 Cuyutlan 188. 
 
 Degollado, Santos 204. 
 
 Desert, The 16. 
 
 Diligencias 151. 
 
 Dolores, Grito del06 
 
 — Hidalgo 104. 
 
 — River 76. 
 
INDEX 
 
 587 
 
 Dominguez, Josefa 
 Ortiz de 111. 
 
 Dona Maria Mine 82. 
 Drawn Linen 46. 
 Dublan, Colonia 52. 
 Dura, La 78. 
 
 Durango City 100. 
 
 — State 102. 
 
 Eagle Pass 98. 
 
 Ebano 49. 
 
 Edificios, Los 42. 
 Elater Fire-fly 568. 
 
 El Parque 435. 
 
 El Paso 23. 
 
 Empalme 78. 
 Encantada 56. 
 Encarnacidn 123. 
 Ensenada 86. 
 Erongaricuaro 213. 
 Escalon 34. 
 
 Escape de la Cumbre 
 
 201 . 
 
 Esmeralda, Huerta de 
 78. 
 
 Esperanza 495. 
 
 Estancia 185. 
 
 Estrella del Norte 82. 
 Etla 528. 
 
 Evangelista, San Juan 
 551. 
 
 Extoraz 120. 
 
 Fdbrica de Hercules 
 118. 
 
 Floating Gardens 350. 
 Fortin 488. 
 
 — de Zaragoza 534 
 Franciscan Style, 121. 
 
 — order 324. 
 
 Fresnillo 37. 
 
 Fuerte River 61. 
 
 Galirdo 120. 
 
 Gamboa 558. 
 
 Garrapata 570. 
 Gerbnimo 24. 
 
 — , San 554. 
 Gesticulation 244 1 . 
 Giant’s Causeway 423. 
 Golfo de California 84. 
 Gomez Palacio 35. 
 Gonzalez Junction 107. 
 Gorda, Sierra 145. 
 Grijalva River 560. 
 Grillo, El 38. 
 
 Grito de Dolores 106. 
 Guacomea Mts. 75. 
 Guadalajara 161 . 
 
 Agua Azul 178. 
 Alameda 177. 
 Barranca de Oblatos 
 178. 
 
 Biblioteca del Estadc 
 177. 
 
 Guadalajara : 
 
 Bull Ring 177. 
 Calzada 177. 
 Cathedral 166. 
 Church of El Carmen 
 173. 
 
 — de Jesus Maria 
 
 175. 
 
 — de Mexicaltzingo 
 
 176. 
 
 — de Nuestra Senora 
 de Guadalupe 175. 
 
 . — Our Lady of Aran- 
 zazu 173. 
 
 — de San Agustin 
 176. 
 
 — de San Felipe 
 Neri 175. 
 
 — de San Francisco 
 172. 
 
 — de San Josd de 
 , Gracia 174. 
 
 — de Santa Maria de 
 Gracia 176. 
 
 — de Santa Monica 
 166. 
 
 — de la Virgen de la 
 Soledad 180. 
 
 Climate 164. 
 
 Colegio de la Inmacu- 
 lada Concepcion 
 176. 
 
 Hospicio 177 
 Jardin Juarez 174. 
 
 — de San Francisco 
 
 172. 
 
 Mercado Corona 177. 
 Nunez, J. Silverio 
 statue 174. 
 
 Palacio de Gobierno 
 165. 
 
 Pan Duro 180. 
 Penitentiary 174. 
 Plaza del Carmen 
 
 173. 
 
 — de Hidalgo 175. 
 
 — Mayor 164. 
 
 Pottery 179. 
 
 San Pedro Tlaque- 
 paque 179. 
 
 Teatro Degollado 176. 
 Zapopan 178. 
 Guadalupe y Calvo 60. 
 
 — (Mexico City) 392. 
 
 — (Zacatecas) 42. 
 Guadiana, Valley of 
 
 102 . 
 
 Guanajuato City 137. 
 
 — , Nuestra Senora de 
 142. 
 
 — , Sierra de 145. 
 
 — , State of 145. 
 Guanaeevi 104. 
 Guatemala 560. 
 Guatulco 542. 
 
 Guayabate 456. 
 Guayangareo, El Valle 
 de 202. 
 
 Guaymas 78. 
 Guazapares 57. 
 Guecorio 213. 
 Guerenguela, Ruins 556. 
 Guernsey, F. R. 492, 521. 
 Guerrero River 61. 
 
 — State 460. 
 
 Gui-y-Baa 536. 
 Gutierrez, Ceferino 106. 
 
 Hacienda de Guadalupe 
 558. 
 
 Havana xxxvid. 
 Hermosillo 77. 
 
 Herdica Ejutla Crespo 
 529. 
 
 Hidalgo, Dolores 104. 
 
 — Miguel 27, 140, 207. 
 
 — State 423. 
 
 Higo, El 49. 
 
 Hikuli 93. 
 
 Hill of the Bells 119. 
 Hints 244Z. 
 
 Horcasitas River 77. 
 Hornos 100. 
 
 Huacapa River 459. 
 Huajuapam de Leon 
 525. 
 
 Huamantla, Valle de 
 429. 
 
 Huatusco 486. 
 
 Huaxteca 50./. 
 Huejotzingo 517. 
 Huejustla 49. 
 
 Huetdmo 229. 
 Hueyapan 456, 498. 
 Hueyutla 423. 
 Huichapan 121. 
 Huicholes 92. 
 Huimanguillo District 
 560. 
 
 Huingo 201. 
 
 Huipil 555. 
 
 Huitzilopochtli 42, 302. 
 Huitzizilin 210. 
 
 Huixtla 559. 
 
 Humaya, Rio 89. 
 Humboldt 224, 423. 
 Humming Birds 217. 
 Hunting 53. 
 
 Iguala 457. 
 
 — Plan de 457. 
 
 Iguanas 552. 
 
 Iguatzio 216. 
 
 Imuris 75. 
 
 Infiernillo, El 493. 
 Inlaid-work 491. 
 Irapuato 126, 148. 
 
 Irolo 424. 
 
 Iron Mt. 103. 
 
 Isla del Carmen 85. 
 
5S8 
 
 INDEX 
 
 I si as dc Tres Marlas 
 96. 
 
 Iturbide, Agustin de 51, 
 204. 
 
 — Son Josd de 120. 
 Ixbul, Cerro de 563. 
 Ixmiquilpan 135. 
 Ixthuatan 559. 
 Ixtlnhuaca 198, 199. 
 Ixtli 424. 
 
 Izatla 423. 
 lztaccihuatl 464. 
 
 Jnrala 423. 
 
 Jaialpa 194. 
 
 Jalapa 503. 
 
 Jalisco 181, 559, 568. 
 Jalpan 120. 
 
 Jamapa. Rio 481, 484. 
 Jainay 157. 
 
 Jaral del Valle 127. 
 Jarita 3. 
 
 Jew fish 50. 
 
 Jhuatzio 215. 
 
 Jilotlan 218. 
 
 Jimba 548. 
 
 Jimenez 33, 63. 
 
 Jimulco 36. 
 
 Joco tepee 157. 
 
 Jojutla 456. 
 
 Jonacatep<*c 456. 
 
 Jorullo 224. 
 
 Joya, La 494. 
 
 Juacuaro 209. 
 
 Juarnave 50. 
 Juanacatlan, El Salto de 
 159. 
 
 Juarez. Benito 272, 328, 
 3.38. 534. 
 
 Juchipila, Rio 44. 
 Juchitan 543, 558. 
 
 Juilc 551. 
 
 Jungle 551. 
 
 Kirnpech 570. 
 
 Lncnndones 563. 
 Lacquer 229. 
 
 Lim 138. 
 
 — , Nuestra Sefiora de 
 123. 
 
 — , San Juan de los 123. 
 Laguna 24. 
 
 — District 100, 103. 
 
 — de Castilla 57. 
 
 — de Cocos 481. 
 
 — tie TYrminos 569. 
 Laja. I.a 106. 
 
 — , Rio 131. 
 
 1a Junta 61. 
 
 Lampnxos 4. 
 
 Laredo 2. 
 
 — Nuevo 3. 
 
 Legaspi. Miguel Lopez 
 
 de 189. 
 
 'Leon 124. 
 
 Lerdo 35, 104. 
 
 Lerma, Rio 148, 1 79, 199. 
 Llanitos, Los 145. 
 Llanos de Apam 429. 
 Lodos de Munguia 145. 
 Log-wood 569. 
 
 Lorenzo, San 424. 
 Lower California 84. 
 
 I 
 
 Macuiltepec, Cerro de 
 504. 
 
 Magdalena Bay 85. 
 
 — District 75. 
 
 — , Lago de 1S2. 
 Maguarichic 56. 
 Magueyales 501. 
 
 Maize 133. 
 
 Malila 424. 
 
 Malinche 497. 
 
 Malintzi 429, 497. 
 
 Mai Pais 224. 
 
 Maltrata 494. 
 
 Mamantel 569. 
 
 Mamd 565. 
 
 Manzanillo 188. 
 
 Mapilca 4S1. 
 
 Marcos, San 496. 
 
 Mar:a Madre 97. 
 Marimba 565. 
 
 Marina 497. 
 Marquesadas, Las 557, 
 
 558. 
 
 Marquesado, El 530. 
 Matamoros 12, 522. 
 
 — Mariano 206. 
 Matehuala 16. 
 
 Mateo, San 222. 
 
 Matias Romero 553. 
 Matlaeu^yatl 429. 
 Maximilian 119. 
 
 Mayo. Rio 89. 
 
 Mazapil 44. 
 
 Mazatlan 90. 
 
 Medanos, Los 24. 
 Medellin 481. 
 Melanogaster variegatus 
 
 60. 
 
 Melilla 44. 
 
 Melon Zapote 548. 
 Membrillate 456. 
 Mercado, Gines Vas- 
 quez del 101. 
 
 Mero 79. 
 
 Mescala Island 156. 
 Mesquital 44. 
 
 Mezquitic Valley 96. 
 Meteorites 34. 
 
 Met lac Barranca 488. 
 Metlapiles 423. 
 Mexcalapa River 560. 
 Mex. Navigation Co. 
 xxxvio. 
 
 M ex. States Line S.S. Co. 
 xxxvip. 
 
 Mexico City 232, 251. 
 
 Academia Nacionalde 
 San Carlos 310. 
 
 Aduana de Santiago 
 358. 
 
 Ahuehuetes 245. 
 
 Ahuizotl 246. 
 
 Ajusco, Sierra de 
 246. 
 
 Alameda 327. 
 
 Albuquerque, Duke 
 of 283. 
 
 Ambassadors 239. 
 
 American Club 2446. 
 
 American School 371 
 
 Amygdaloid 245. 
 
 Antique Rooms 320. 
 
 Aqueduct 383. 
 
 Aranda 246. 
 
 Arbol de la Noehe 
 Triste 418. 
 
 Archives, Public 268. 
 
 Archivo del Palaeio 
 Municipal 292. 
 
 Astronomical Observ- 
 atory 417. 
 
 Atotonilco El Grande 
 246. 
 
 Aut omobile Club 2446. 
 
 — Garages 244a. 
 
 Avenida Cinco de 
 Mayo 317. 
 
 — Diez y Seis de 
 Septiembre 258, 
 322. 
 
 — de Miguel Hidalgo 
 y Costilla 235 
 
 — Juarez 257. 
 
 — de Francisco I. 
 Madero 258. 
 
 Ayuiitamiento 249. 
 
 Azcapotzalco 419. 
 
 Ball Game, Basque, 
 2446. 
 
 Banks 244c. 
 
 Battle of Molino del 
 Rev 381. 
 
 Belem Prison 369. 
 
 Biblioteca Naeiona. 
 344. 
 
 Bookstores 244/. 
 
 Bronze Horse 373 
 
 Buen Tono Cigarette 
 Factory 370. 
 
 Bull Ring 2446. 
 
 Caballito, El 373. 
 
 Cabs 238. 
 
 Caf£ Colon 376. 
 
 Calendar stone 299. 
 
 Callejones 256. 
 
 Calles 256, 257. 
 
 — de Bucareli 371. 
 
 — de Capuchina3 
 346. 
 
 — de Gante 320. 
 
INDEX 
 
 589 
 
 Mexico City : 
 
 Calles del Puente de 
 Alvarado 340. 
 
 — de Ribera de San 
 Cosme 340. 
 
 — de San Juan de 
 Letran 258. 
 
 — de Santo Domingo 
 353. 
 
 Calzada de la Vero- 
 nica 390. 
 
 Canal Nacional 350. 
 
 Capilla de la Cande- 
 laria 368. 
 
 — del Cerrito 405. 
 
 — del Pocito 403. 
 
 — del Senor de la 
 Expiacion 356. 
 
 Carcel de Belem 369. 
 
 Casa d^ Alvarado 
 411. 
 
 — del Ayuntamiento 
 292. 
 
 — de los Azulejos 
 326. 
 
 — de Comunicaciones 
 y Obras Publicas 
 331. 
 
 — de Correos 328. 
 
 — de los Mascarones 
 342. 
 
 — de Moneda 364. 
 
 Cathedral 273. 
 
 Cemetery, American 
 
 342. 
 
 — Dolores 391. 
 
 — English 342. 
 
 — French 371. 
 
 — de San Fernando 
 337. 
 
 — Spanish 342. 
 
 — Tepeyac 405. 
 
 Centigrade xlvii. 
 
 Chaleo 247. 
 
 Chamber of Com- 
 merce 2445. 
 
 Chapel of the Well 
 403. 
 
 Chapultepec 379. 
 
 Chiluca 279. 
 
 Chinampas 350. 
 
 Churches 243 
 
 — of Balvanera 346. 
 
 — El Colegio de Ninas 
 
 346. 
 
 — La Concepcion del 
 Salto de Agua 370. 
 
 — El Corazon de 
 Jesus 371. 
 
 — Jesus Maria 364. 
 
 — Jesus Nazareno 
 348. 
 
 — La Merced 370. 
 
 — , Methodist Episco- 
 pal 320. 
 
 Mexico City : 
 
 Churches of : 
 
 Nuestra Senora del 
 Carmen 358. 
 
 de la Concep- 
 
 cidn 332. 
 
 de la Encar- 
 
 nacion 357. 
 
 de Guadalupe 
 
 397. 
 
 de Loreto 362. 
 
 — Porta Cceli 343. 
 
 — La Profesa 318. 
 
 — La Regina 352. 
 
 — El Rosario 368. 
 
 — San Agustin 346. 
 
 — San Antonio Abad 
 350. 
 
 — San Antonio Te- 
 pito 358. 
 
 — San Antonio To- 
 matlan 368. 
 
 — San Bernardo 343. 
 
 — San Cosme 340. 
 
 — San Diego 334. 
 
 — San Felipe de 
 Jesus 325. 
 
 — San Fernando 
 337. 
 
 — San Francisco 321 . 
 
 — San Geronimo 
 368. 
 
 — San Hipolito 335. 
 
 — San Jose de Gracia 
 349. 
 
 — San Jose de los 
 Naturales 370. 
 
 — San Juan de Dios 
 
 333. 
 
 — San Lorenzo 332. 
 
 — San Miguel 349. 
 
 — San Pablo 350. 
 
 — Santa Brigida 326. 
 
 — Santa Catalina de 
 Sena 357. 
 
 — Santa Catarina 
 Mdrtir 358. 
 
 — Santa Clara 331. 
 
 — Santa Cruz Acat- 
 lan 350. 
 
 — Santa Ines 359. 
 
 — Santa Maria de los 
 Angeles 333. 
 
 — Santa Teresa la 
 Antigua 359. 
 
 — Santa Teresa la 
 Nueva 363. 
 
 — Santa Vera Cruz 
 
 334. 
 
 — Santiago Tlalte- 
 lolco 358. 
 
 — Santisima Trinidad 
 365. 
 
 — Santo Domingo 
 353. 
 
 Mexico City : 
 
 Churches of : 
 
 Santo Tomas de la 
 Palma 367. 
 
 — Soled ad de Santa 
 Cruz 366. 
 
 Church Festivals 
 2445. 
 
 Churubusco 407. 
 
 Cigars and Cigarettes 
 244/. 
 
 Cinco de Mayo, Ave. 
 de 317. 
 
 Ciudadela 369. 
 
 Clubs 2446. 
 
 Club Campestre 407. 
 
 Coat-of-Arms 249. 
 
 Colegio de Mineria 
 330. 
 
 — de la Paz 352. 
 
 — de San Ignacio 
 370. 
 
 — de San Ildefonso 
 360. 
 
 — de las Vizcainas 
 352. 
 
 Collections, etc. 244i. 
 
 College of Mines 
 330. 
 
 Colonia de la Bolsa 
 257. 
 
 — de Condesa 264. 
 
 — Chapultepec 
 
 Heights 390a. 
 
 — Cuauhtemoc 264. 
 
 — Hidalgo 264. 
 
 — Indianilla 264. 
 
 — Juarez 255. 
 
 — Roma 264. 
 
 — San Rafael 264. 
 
 — Santa Julia 264. 
 
 — Santa Maria 264. 
 
 — Tlaxpana, 264. 
 
 Comisaria 256. 
 
 Commercial Museum 
 328. 
 
 Conservatorio de Mu- 
 sica 343. 
 
 Consuls 2446. 
 
 Country Club 407. 
 
 Coyoacan 408. 
 
 Cristobal, San 247. 
 
 Cuarteles 256. 
 
 Cuauhtemoc 377. 
 
 Cuevas, Las 246. 
 
 Demarcaciones 256. 
 
 Dentists 2446. 
 
 Desagiie, Canal del 
 250. 
 
 — Ferrocarril del 
 233. 
 
 Desierto, El 350d. 
 
 Distrito Federal 245. 
 
 Dominicans 353. 
 
 Drainage Canal 248. 
 
590 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Mexico City: 
 
 Drainage Canal Rail- 
 way 233. 
 
 Enrico Martinez Mon- 
 ument 297. 
 
 Escuela Comercial 
 Francesa 371. 
 
 — Nacional de Med- 
 icina 356. 
 
 — Nacional Prepara- 
 tory 360. 
 
 — de N uestra Senora 
 del Pilar 364. 
 
 — de Tiro de Arti- 
 lleria 368. 
 
 Espana 246. 
 
 Estacidn de Buena 
 Vista 232. 
 
 — de Colonia 232, 
 264. 
 
 — de Peralvillo 233. 
 
 — de San Lazaro 
 36S. 
 
 Eucalyptus 372. 
 
 Express Offices 
 244 a. 
 
 Fahrenheit xlvii. 
 
 Federal District 245. 
 
 Flower Market 293. 
 
 Franciscan Order 324. 
 
 Gante, Calle de 320. 
 
 — Fray Pedro de 
 320. 
 
 ( larmes 256. 
 
 Glorieta Cuauhtemoc 
 376. 
 
 Golf Links 244 Ji. 
 
 Guadalupe 392. 
 
 — Church 397. 
 
 — History 394. 
 
 — River 248. 
 
 Hapsburg Arms 250. 
 
 Hipddromo 2446. 
 
 Horse Races 244 h. 
 
 Hospicio de Pobres 
 353. 
 
 Hospital Concepcion 
 Beistegui 352. 
 
 — de Jesus Nazareno 
 349. 
 
 Hotels 234. 
 
 Houses 256. 
 
 Huitzilopochtli 302, 
 303. 
 
 Inquisition 356. 
 
 Lnstituto Geologico 
 Nacional 341. 
 
 — Medico Nacional 
 369. 
 
 Intendente del Pala- 
 cio 268. 
 
 Inundations 254. 
 
 Iron Horse 373. 
 
 Iturbide Hotel 320. 
 
 Jalpan 247. 
 
 Mexico City: 
 
 Jardin Corregidora 
 Dominguez 356. 
 
 — Morelos 333. 
 
 — de Nuestra Senora 
 de Loreto 364. 
 
 — de Propagacion 
 385. 
 
 Jesuits 318. 
 
 — Order 363. 
 
 Jeweller 37 Stores 244e. 
 
 Jiloncingo 246. 
 
 Juan Diego 394. 
 
 Juarez, Benito Pablo 
 338. 
 
 Lagartijos 258. 
 
 Liberty Bell 266. 
 
 Library, National 
 344. 
 
 Lodges 2446. 
 
 Madero, Avenida de 
 Francisco I. 258. 
 
 Manzanas 256. 
 
 Market, Flower 293. 
 
 — , Merced 262. 
 
 — , San Juan 370. 
 
 — , Thieves’ 296. 
 
 Mercado del Volador 
 296. 
 
 Mineria, La 330. 
 
 Ministerio de Guerra 
 268. 
 
 — de Hacienda 268. 
 
 Ministers 239. 
 
 Mint 364. 
 
 Mixcoac 416. 
 
 Molino del Rey 385. 
 
 Money Changers 2446. 
 
 Monte de Piedad 295. 
 
 Monument to the Ca- 
 dets 381. 
 
 — to Enrico Marti- 
 nez 297. 
 
 — to Independence 
 378. 
 
 Mozarabic Liturgy 
 324. 
 
 Municipal Palace 292. 
 
 Museo Nacional 298. 
 
 de Artilleria 
 
 369. 
 
 — Tecnologico 331. 
 
 — de Comercio 328. 
 
 Mutual Life Ins. 
 
 Bl’d’g 318. 
 
 National Museum 
 298. 
 
 — Palace 267. 
 
 — Pawn Shop 295. 
 
 Newspapers 244^. 
 
 Nochistongo 247. 
 
 Non Fecit Taliter 
 Omni Natione 398. 
 
 Nuestra Senora de la 
 Bala 348. 
 
 Mexico City : 
 
 Observatorio Meteo- 
 rologico 260, 26S. 
 Palacio Bazaine 340. 
 
 — del Conde de San- 
 tiago 347. 
 
 — de Correos 328. 
 
 — Legislative 256. 
 
 — Municipal 292. 
 
 — Nacional 267. 
 Panteon de Dolores 
 
 391. 
 
 — de San Fernando 
 337. 
 
 Parian 266. 
 
 Parque Central 264. 
 Parrots 294. 
 
 Paseo de la Reforma 
 372. 
 
 Pawn shops 296. 
 Pedregal 411. 
 
 Pena Pobre 407. 
 Penitentiary 368. 
 Penon, El 246. 
 Pharmacies 244^. 
 Photographs, Views, 
 etc. 244/. 
 Physicians 2446. 
 Picture Gallery 310. 
 Piedad, La 416. 
 Plateresco, Estilo 
 328. 
 
 Plaza de los Angeles 
 333. 
 
 — de los Arcos de 
 Belem 370. 
 
 — del Carmen 358, 
 411. 
 
 — de la Constitucion 
 265. 
 
 — del Hipodromo 
 264. 
 
 — de Loreto 362. 
 
 — Mayor 261 . 
 
 — del Quemadero 
 328. 
 
 — de la Reforma 
 372. 
 
 — de la Republica 
 256. 
 
 — de Santa Maria 
 341. 
 
 — de Santo Domingo 
 356. 
 
 — de Tepito 358. 
 
 — de Tlaltelolco 265. 
 
 — de Toros 371. 
 Police 256. 
 
 Popotla 418. 
 
 Portal de Mercaderes 
 
 294. 
 
 Portales 294. 
 Post-Offices 244a, 328. 
 Protestant churches 
 244i. 
 
INDEX 
 
 591 
 
 Mexico City : 
 
 Puente de Alvarado 
 339. 
 
 Quemadero 266. 
 
 Railway Stations 233. 
 
 Rastro Nuevo 368. 
 
 Restaurants and 
 Caffis 236. 
 
 Rooms, Furnished 
 233. 
 
 Sacrificial Stone 301. 
 
 Sagrario Metropoli- 
 tan© 290. 
 
 San Agustin dte las 
 Cuevas 405. 
 
 San Angel 412. 
 
 Sanborn’s 237. 
 
 San Felipe de Jesus 
 325. 
 
 San Juan Market 370. 
 
 San Lazaro District 
 367. 
 
 Santa Rosa de Lima 
 285. 
 
 — Veronica 347. 
 
 Santo Oficio, Tribu- 
 nal del 356. 
 
 School, American 371. 
 
 Shops 244e. 
 
 Sierra de Ajusco 246. 
 
 — Madre Oriental 
 246. 
 
 — Nevada 246. 
 
 Sincoque 246. 
 
 Soldiers 260. 
 
 Sonora News Com- 
 pany 244e, 320. 
 
 Stamp Printing Of- 
 fice 268. 
 
 Statue of Charles IV 
 373. 
 
 — of Christopher Co- 
 lumbus 374, 376. 
 
 — of Quauhtemotzin 
 376. 
 
 Steamship offices 
 244a. 
 
 Tacuba 418. 
 
 Tacubaya 417. 
 
 Taxicabs 238. 
 
 Telegraph-Offices 
 
 244a. 
 
 Tenochtitlan 246, 
 252. 
 
 Tepetate 245. 
 
 Tepeyac Hill 404. 
 
 — Panteon de 405. 
 
 Tepozotlan 136, 247. 
 
 Tequesquite 247. 
 
 Tequixquiac River 
 246. 
 
 — Tunnel 248. 
 
 Texcoco 247. 
 
 Tezontle 245. 
 
 Theatres 244p. 
 
 Mexico City: 
 
 Thieves’ Market 296. 
 Tianguiz 266. 
 
 Ticket offices 233. 
 Tlalpan 405. 
 Tlaltelolco, Plaza de 
 265. 
 
 Tolsa, Manuel 331. 
 Tombac 281. 
 Tramways 239. 
 Tranvias 239. 
 Treasury, Federal 
 268. 
 
 Tree of the Dismal 
 Night 418. 
 Tulancingo Valley 
 246. 
 
 University 343. 
 
 Valley of Mexico 246. 
 Viga, La 350. 
 
 Virgen de los Angeles 
 333. 
 
 — of Bethlehem, 
 Painting 287. 
 
 — de Guadalupe 392. 
 
 — de la Macane 327. 
 
 — de la Soledad 366. 
 Washington Monu- 
 ment 371 . 
 
 Xaltocan 247. 
 Xochimilco 247, 350. 
 Xoloc 351. 
 Zancopinca 420. 
 Zinguilucan Valley 
 246. 
 
 Zocalo 265. 
 
 Zumpango 247. 
 Mexico, State 198. 
 Michoacan 217. 
 
 Michoas 226. 
 
 Micoatli 426. 
 
 Micos 49. 
 
 Milpas 498. 
 
 Milpillas 60. 
 
 Mina, Francisco Javier 
 51. 
 
 Minaca 61, 63. 
 
 Minas Nuevas 67. 
 Mineral del Triunfo 
 85. 
 
 Mining Law 73. 
 Miradores 51. 
 
 Misantla 481. 
 
 Mitla, Ruins 534, 537. 
 — - San Pablo 537. 
 Mixtequilla 556. 
 
 Mochis 62. 
 
 Monclova 15. 
 
 Monte Alban 534. 
 
 — Alto 199. 
 
 — Bajo 199. 
 
 Monterey 5. 
 
 Alameda Porfirio 
 Diaz 9. 
 
 Bull Ring 9. 
 
 Monterey: 
 
 Casino 8. 
 
 Cathedral 7. 
 
 Chepe Vera Hill 9. 
 Church of Nuestra 
 Senora del Roble 
 8 . 
 
 — of San Francisco 
 
 8 . 
 
 Garcia Caves (Caver- 
 nas de Pesqueria) 
 
 9. 
 
 Juarez Monument 6. 
 Obispado Viejo 9. 
 Palacio de Gobierno 
 6 . 
 
 — Municipal 9. 
 
 Plaza Cinco de Mayo 
 
 6 . 
 
 — de Zaragoza, 9. 
 Mirador 7. 
 
 Mitre Mt. 7. 
 
 Saddle Mt. 7. 
 
 Topo Chico Springs 
 
 10 . 
 
 Monterrubio 209. 
 Montezuma, Cerro de 
 106. 
 
 Morelia 202. 
 
 Morelos, Josd Maria y 
 Pavon 202, 204. 
 
 — State 456. 
 
 — Valley 435. 
 
 Mulege 84. 
 
 Murillo 169. 
 
 Muzquiz 99. 
 
 Naco 69. 
 
 Nacozari 69. 
 
 Nahua 426. 
 
 Nahuatl 135. 
 
 Nassau xxxvia. 
 Naucalpam,SanB4rtolo 
 191. 
 
 Nauchampatepetl 504. 
 Navaja, Cerro de 423. 
 Navojoa 89. 
 
 Nayarit, state of 92 
 Nazas, Rio 103. 
 
 Necaxa Falls 517. 
 Nevado, El 187. 
 
 New York xxxv. 
 
 N. Y. & Cuba Mail S. S. 
 
 Co. xxxiv. 
 
 Nieves 102. 
 
 — -, Rio Grande de 44. 
 Nile of Durango 103. 
 Nochistongo, Tajo de 
 135. 
 
 Nochixtlan 529. 
 Nogales 74. 
 
 Nombre de Dios 102. 
 Novillos 44. 
 
 Nuevo Laredo 3. 
 
 — Leon 11. 
 
592 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Oaxaca City 528. 
 
 — Indians 542. 
 
 — State 641. 
 Oaxatepec 456. 
 
 < Obsidian 220, 423. 
 
 ( >caranza, Manuel 228. 
 Ocotlan (Jalisco) 1 1. 
 Oil 50m 
 
 Olas Altas Bay 90. 
 Olive Trees 216. 
 Olmecs 426. 
 
 Ometusco 498. 
 
 Onabas 83. 
 
 Onofre, San 120. 
 
 Onyx 518, 542. 
 
 Opal Mines 120. 
 
 Opals 110. 
 
 Orchids 564. 
 
 Organos de Octdpan 
 423. 
 
 Oriental 501. 
 
 Orizaba 489. 
 
 — Pico de 496. 
 
 Oro. Placeres de 459. 
 
 — Real del 199. 
 Otumba 498. 
 
 Pacanda 214. 
 
 Pachuca 135, 422. 
 
 — , Sierra de 423. 
 Pacific Mail S. S. Co. 
 xxxvip. 
 
 Pajacuaran 157. 
 Palenque Ruins 567. 
 Palizada 569. 
 
 Palma, La 157. 
 
 Palmilla 67. 
 Panama-hats 570. 
 Panuco River 50/. 
 Papalodpam, Rio 547. 
 Papantla 507. 
 Papasquiaro 103. 
 Papaya 548. 
 
 Paracho 219 
 Paraje Nuevo 485. 
 Parangaricutiro 219. 
 Paranguitiro 226. 
 Parral 64. 
 
 Parras 14. 
 
 Paso del Macho 485. 
 
 — de Salas 483. 
 
 — del Toro 481 . 
 Passion Plav 462. 
 Patambdn, Cerro de 
 
 224. 
 
 Patzcuaro 209. 
 
 — Lake 213. 
 
 Paz, La 86. 
 
 Pearl Fishing 87. 
 
 — Hunters 88. 
 
 Pedro, San 213. 
 
 Pelea de Gallos 24. 
 Penjamo 148. 
 
 Petioles 542. 
 
 Penon Blanco 21. 
 
 Penon del Rosario 429. 
 Perote, San Carlos 502. 
 
 — Cofre de 504. 
 Pertenencia 72. 
 Pesqueira 76. 
 
 Petates 518. 
 
 Picaflores 210. 
 Pichachic 61. 
 Pichihualtepee 44. 
 Pichucalco 563. 
 
 Pico de Sangangiiey 91. 
 
 — de Teyra 44. 
 
 Picos, Los Tres 563. 
 Piedad, La 148. 
 
 Piedras Negras 98. 
 Pijijiapam 559. 
 
 Pimas 60. 
 
 Pineta Mts. 75. 
 
 Pinto 460. 
 
 Pintos 569. 
 
 Pirindas 226. 
 
 Pitiquitas 44. 
 
 Placeres de Oro 459. 
 Planchas de Plata 75. 
 Play it as. Las 77. 
 Polotitlan 131. 
 Popocatepetl 463. 
 
 Pozos 104. 
 
 Presa, La 138. 
 
 Presidio del Norte 56. 
 Prietas 78. 
 
 Promontorio 76. 
 
 Puebla 424, 508. 
 
 — , State of 517. 
 
 Casa de Alfenique 
 516. 
 
 — de la Jefatura de 
 Hacienda 516. 
 
 Cathedral 512. 
 
 Cerro Gordo 511. 
 
 — de Guadalupe 515. 
 
 — de Loreto 515. 
 Church of Las Capu- 
 
 chinas 517. 
 
 La Compama 
 
 516. 
 
 La Concepcion 
 
 516. 
 
 — Nuestra Senora de 
 Guadalupe 511 
 
 de la Sole- 
 
 dad 516. 
 
 — San Cristdbal 516. 
 — San Francisco 
 515. 
 
 — San Geronimo 516. 
 — San Josd 515. 
 Church of San Juan 
 de Letran 516. 
 
 — San Marcos 516. 
 — Santa Catarina 
 
 517. 
 
 — La Santisima 517. 
 Fountain of San 
 Miguel 515. 
 
 Puebla : 
 
 History 510. 
 Leocadia, Saint 514. 
 PalacioMunicipal517. 
 Parian 516. 
 
 Paseo Nuevo 511. 
 Plaza dela Constitu- 
 cion 511. 
 
 — de San Jose 515. 
 — San Francisco 
 
 515. 
 
 Statue to Hidalgo 
 511. 
 
 — to Ignacio Zara- 
 goza 515. 
 
 - — to Nicolas Bravo 
 511. 
 
 Talavera 509. 
 Pueblito 118. 
 
 — , Virgen del 118. 
 Puente de Ixtla 457, 
 467. 
 
 Puertecitos 72. 
 
 Puerto Mexico 550. 
 Pulque 121, 134. 
 Punhuato, Cerro de 203. 
 Purapecha Indians 217. 
 
 Quemada, La 42. 
 Querendaro 201. 
 Queretaro City 109. 
 
 — State 119. 
 
 Querobabi 76. 
 
 Quesaria 185. 
 
 Quetzal 563. 
 Quetzalcoatl 496. 
 Quijano 75. 
 
 Quilapan 542. 
 
 Quinceo 224. 
 
 Quintera Mine 82. 
 Quiotepec 542. 
 
 Quiroga, Vasco de 207, 
 
 211 , 212 . 
 
 — Village 213. 
 Quitupan, Lago de 182. 
 Quiyechapa 542. 
 
 Real del Monte, 423. 
 Reata 100. 
 
 Regia, Conde de 295, 
 423. 
 
 Remedios, Virgen de los 
 191. 
 
 Reyes, Los 149. 
 
 Ribera Castellanos 155. 
 Rincon Antonio 553. 
 
 — de Romos 45. 
 
 Rio Blanco 120, 493. 
 
 — Bravo 3. 
 
 — Chiquito 203. 
 
 — Grande del Norte 2. 
 Rodidores 552. 
 Ronquillo 71. 
 
 Rosario 68. 
 
 Rosendo Marqudz 525. 
 
INDEX 
 
 593 
 
 Rosita 99. 
 
 Rubber Country 561. 
 Rusias 50. 
 
 Sabancuy 569. 
 
 Sabinal 51. 
 
 Sabinas 99. 
 
 Sacramento Hill 25. 
 Sacro Monte 462. 
 Sahuaripa 81. 
 
 Salado River 185. 
 Salagua, Bahia de 
 188. 
 
 Salamanca 127. 
 
 Salina Cruz 556. 
 
 Salinas 21. 
 
 Salt 21, 189. 
 
 Saltillo 12. 
 
 Salvatierra 108. 
 Samalayuca 24. 
 
 San Andres, Cerro de 
 203. 
 
 Chalchicomula 
 
 496. 
 
 — Bias 91. 
 
 — Cayetano 144. 
 
 — Cristobal 199, 483. 
 
 las Casas 559. 
 
 Ecatepec 204. 
 
 — Dimas 103. 
 
 — Francisco de Lajas 
 60. 
 
 — Geronimo 554, 558. 
 
 — Juan de las Huertas 
 198. 
 
 Teotihuacan 425. 
 
 , Village of 554. 
 
 del Rio 103, 120, 
 
 132. 
 
 — Luis de la Paz 18. 
 
 Potosi (City) 17. 
 
 , State of 20. 
 
 — Marcos (Fiesta) 46. 
 Hacienda 184. 
 
 — Marcial 78. 
 
 — Miguel, Fray Juan 
 de 228. 
 
 River 76. 
 
 Totlapam 459. 
 
 — Nicolas de la Can- 
 tera 47. 
 
 — Pedro 100. 
 
 — Pedro de la Canada 
 118. 
 
 Hills 18. 
 
 — Vicente Caves 79. 
 Santa Ana 213, 431. 
 Santa Anna, Antonio 
 
 Lopez de 506. 
 
 — Barbara 50, 67. 
 
 — Catalina Hacienda 
 
 559. 
 
 — Clara 114. 
 
 — Eulalia, Real de 32. 
 
 — Gertrudis, 84. 
 
 — Lucrecia 550, 553. 
 
 — Maria Ocotlan 60. 
 del Rio 21. 
 
 — Rosa 15. 
 
 de Viterbo 113. 
 
 — - Rosalia Springs 32. 
 Santiago, Rio 155, 160, 
 179, 182. 
 
 Santiago Teneraca 60. 
 Santo Domingo River 
 76. 
 
 Santuario de Ocotlan 
 428. 
 
 Sarapes 41, 529. ' 
 Sayula, Lago de 183. 
 Scorpions 93. 
 Septentrion Canon 62. 
 Seri Indians 80. 
 Shameni 60. 
 
 Sierra de Almoloya 63. 
 
 — del Carmen 15. 
 
 — de la Cruz 64. 
 
 — Madres 52. 
 
 — Mojada 15. 
 
 Mining Region 34. 
 
 — de Nayarit 93. 
 
 — de la Palma 51. 
 Sihuatlan, Rio 182. 
 Silao 126, 137. 
 
 Silver King 50 i. 
 Simojovel 563. 
 
 Sinaloa, Rio 89. 
 
 — State 90. 
 
 Soconusco District 563. 
 Sologuren Collection 
 
 538. 
 
 Sombrerete 102. 
 
 Sonora News Co. 50a, 
 244e, 320. 
 
 — State 77, 80. 
 
 Soto la Marina 51. 
 Suchiate River 560. 
 Suchitlan de las Flores 
 
 190. 
 
 Sugar-cane 546. 
 Sultepec 198. 
 
 Tabares 460. 
 
 Tabascans, Battle with 
 562. 
 
 Tabasco State 560. 
 
 — History 561. 
 
 — , Rio de 561. 
 Taconah Volcano 560. 
 Tacotalpa River 560. 
 Tacuba, Empalme de 
 
 122 . 
 
 Tajo de Nochistongo 
 135. 
 
 Tamaulipas 50;. 
 Tamazula 103. 
 Tamazunchale 49. 
 Tamesi River 50/. 
 Tampico 11, 36, 48, 50. 
 Tancitaro, Pico de 224. 
 
 Tapachula 560. 
 
 Tapana 559. 
 
 Tapetillan 423. 
 Tarahumare Indians 30, 
 57. 
 
 — , Sierra de 30. 
 Tarasca Mines 78. 
 Tarascan 210, 211, 228. 
 Tarascos 217, 218, 226. 
 Taretan 213. 
 Tarimangacho 224. 
 Tarpon 50 i. 
 
 Taxco 110, 457. 
 Tecajic, Nuestra Senora 
 de 198. 
 
 Tecalco Waterfall 465. 
 Tecali 518. 
 
 Tecalutla 517. 
 Tecamachalco 525. 
 Tecolote 44, 223. 
 Tecoripa 83. 
 
 Tecos 226. 
 
 Tecpan 460. 
 
 Tecuen 214. 
 
 Tehuacan 495, 518, 526. 
 Tehuanas 554. 
 Tehuantepec City 554. 
 
 — Golfo de 556. 
 
 — Istmo de 557. 
 
 — River 554. 
 
 Tejada, S. L. de 505. 
 Tejamanil 224. 
 Temascaltepec 198. 
 Tembleque, F. 424. 
 Temosachic 57. 
 Tempoal 49. 
 Tenancingo 198. 
 Tenango 198. 
 Teoloyucan 122, 136. 
 Teotepec, Rio 459. 
 Teotihuacan, San Juan 
 
 425. 
 
 Teotitlan 542. 
 
 Tepeaca 525. 
 
 Tepehuala 459. 
 Tepehuanes 60, 104 
 Tepenecas 43. 
 Tepeyahualco 501. 
 Tepezala 48. 
 
 Tepic City 91. 
 
 — Territorio de 91. 
 Tepoxtepec 435. 
 Tepozotlan 136. 
 Tequezquitengo 456. 
 Tequila 182. 
 
 Terminos, Laguna de 
 
 569. 
 
 Terreros P. J. R. 295, 
 423. 
 
 Tetecala 456. 
 
 Tetela del Rio 459. 
 Tetillas 44. 
 
 Tetzcozinco 500. 
 Texcoco 199, 499. 
 Teziutlan 518. 
 
594 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Tiazpanito, Lago de 
 
 182 . 
 
 Tiburon Island 80. 
 Tierra Blanca 547. 
 Titian 215. 
 
 Tizapan 158. 
 Tlachiqueros 498. 
 Tlacolula de Matamoros 
 529, 536. 
 
 Tlacomulco Volcano 
 560. 
 
 Tlacotdlpam 483. 
 Tlacotep4c 525. 
 Tlahuicas 43, 437. 
 Tlalnepantla 137. 
 Tlalpujahua 224. 
 Tlaniacas 463. 
 
 Tlaxcala 427. 
 
 — , Senado de 431. 
 
 — , State of 428. 
 Tlaxcalan Nation 429. 
 Tlaxcaltecas 43. 
 Tlayacopan Mts. 456. 
 Todos Santos 86. 
 Toliman 120. 
 
 Toltecs 134, 426. 
 Toluca 194. 
 
 — , El Nevado de 198, 
 199. 
 
 — Range 193. 
 Toluquilla 159. 
 Tornasopo 48. 
 Tomatlan, Rio 182. 
 Tomellin 527. 
 Tomistlahuacan 459. 
 Tonald 559. 
 
 Tonihta 185. 
 Topolobampo 62. 
 Torre, De la 194. 
 Torreon 35. 
 
 Torres 78. 
 
 Tortoise-shell 570. 
 Tortuaba 79. 
 
 Totolopan 456. 
 Totonacs 426. 
 Tresguerras, Eduardo 
 de 127. 
 
 Tres Jagueyes 524. 
 
 135. 
 
 Trinidad, La 460. 
 Trokeck 565. 
 
 Tronic of Cancer 16. 
 Trujillo, Torcuato 203. 
 Tsipnhki 214. 
 
 Tuape 76. 
 
 Tubars 60. 
 
 Tuito, Rio 182. 
 
 Tula 134. 
 
 Tulancingo 423, 424. 
 Tule, Santa Maria del 
 536. 
 
 Tulija River 563. 
 Tunal, Rio 100. 
 Tuscacuesco 188. 
 Tuscueca 157. 
 
 Tusupan 481. 
 
 Tuxpan 50^, 183. 
 
 — River 184. 
 
 Tuxtepec 483. 
 
 — Plan de 483. 
 
 Tuxtla Gutierrez 559, 
 
 568. 
 
 Tzacualli 425. 
 Tzararacua 229. 
 Tzintzumzan 213, 215. 
 Tzotzil 565. 
 
 Ulmecas 565. 
 
 Union de Tula, Lagode 
 182. 
 
 Urique River 61, 
 Uruapan 227. 
 Usumacinta River 560. 
 Uva 14. 
 
 Valenciana, La 144. 
 Valladolid 202. 
 
 Valle Nacional 547. 
 Vampires 552. 
 
 Vanilla 50i. 
 
 Vasquez de Coronado 
 82. 
 
 Vera Cruz 469. 
 
 Ave. de la Indepen- 
 dence 474. 
 
 — de laLibertad474. 
 
 — de Zaragoza 475. 
 Bay and Harbor 477. 
 Benito Jr arez Light- 
 house 474. 
 
 — Monument 475. 
 Capilla de Nuestra 
 Senora de la Esca- 
 lera 477. 
 
 — de la Pastora 474. 
 Castillo de San Juan 
 
 de Ulua 477. 
 Cementerio General 
 
 476. 
 
 Church of Belen 474. 
 — El Buen Viaje 474. 
 — San Francisco 474. 
 — El Santo Cristo 
 474. 
 
 Climate and Weather 
 Indications 471. 
 Comandancia Militar 
 
 477. 
 
 Comandante Militar 
 474. 
 
 Creoles 475. 
 
 Fruits 476. 
 
 Grijalva, Juan de 478. 
 History 478. 
 
 Hotels 469-70. 
 Huachinango 475. 
 Isla de los Sacrificios 
 477. 
 
 Light House 477. 
 Lorencillo 479. 
 
 Vera Cruz : 
 
 Mercado 475. 
 
 Nortes 471. 
 
 Palacio Municipal 
 474. 
 
 Parochial Church 473 . 
 Paseo de los Cocos 
 
 474. 
 
 Plaza de la Constitu- 
 cion 473. 
 
 — del Muelle 474. 
 Porfirio Diaz Park 
 
 475. 
 
 Railway Stations 469. 
 State of Vera Cruz 
 480. 
 
 Statue to M. G. Za- 
 mora 474. 
 
 Steamship Lines 471. 
 
 . Walks 474. 
 
 Zopilotes 474. 
 
 Veta Colorada 67. 
 Vicario, Leona 13. 
 Victoria, Ciudad 11, 51. 
 Viesca 15. 
 
 Villa Alvarez 529. 
 Villalobos 126. 
 
 Vino de Membrillo 203. 
 Virgen de Guadalupe 
 393. 
 
 — de Ocotlan 428. 
 
 — del Rayo 66. 
 
 — de los Remedios 191. 
 Vishalika 92. 
 
 Volcan de Ceboruco 91. 
 
 — de Colima 186. 
 
 — de Santa Marla 554, 
 560. 
 
 Ward Line xxxiv. 
 Winner’s Bridge 494. 
 Woodpeckers 58. 
 
 Xalapa 503. 
 
 Xanicho 213. 
 Xaracuaro 214. 
 Xicalanco 481. 
 
 Xico, Salto de 506. 
 Xicotencatl 431. 
 Xinantecatl 199. 
 Xochicoatlan 424. 
 Xochimilco, 247, 350. 
 
 Yacatas 215. 
 
 Yaqui Indians 74, 81 , 82. 
 Yaqui River 78. 
 Yautepec 456. 
 Yellow-tail 5Q j, 79. 
 Yuca 547. 
 
 Yucatan, Gulf State 
 582. 
 
 — Peninsula 572. 
 
 Becal 574. 
 
 Calkini 574. 
 
 Cape Catoche 583. 
 
INDEX 
 
 595 
 
 Yucatan: 
 
 Cenotes 570, 582. 
 Chac-Mool 215, 305, 
 582. 
 
 Chemax 584. 
 Chichen-Itza 581. 
 Chicxulub 574. 
 Chochola 574. 
 
 Cholul 574. 
 
 Chuburna 574. 
 
 Citas 581. 
 
 Citbalche 574. 
 Climate 577. 
 
 Conkal 574. 
 
 Cozumel Island 583. 
 Esperanza 574. 
 Fauna and Flora 583. 
 Granada 574. 
 Hacienda of Mucuy- 
 che 583. 
 
 Halacho 574. 
 Hamacas 584. 
 Hammocks 584. 
 Hecelchakan 574. 
 Henequen 583. 
 History 578. 
 
 Isla Mujeres 583. 
 Maxcanu 574. 
 Mayapan 579. 
 
 Yucatan : 
 
 Mayas 579. 
 
 Merida 574. 
 
 Meztizas 579. 
 Montejo, Francisco 
 575. 
 
 Muna 580. 
 
 Pocboc 574. 
 
 Pomuch 574. 
 Progreso 572. 
 Quintana Roo 582. 
 Railway stations 
 (Merida) 574. 
 Ruined Cities 580. 
 San Bernardo 574. 
 
 — Ignacio 574. 
 
 — Jose 574. 
 Sisal-hemp 583. 
 Tenabo 574. 
 
 Tihoo 575. 
 
 Turkeys 582. 
 
 Uman 574. 
 
 Uxmal 580. 
 Water-caves 583. 
 Yaxche 574. 
 
 Yugos, Los 185. 
 Yurecuaro 149. 
 Yuririapundaro, Lake 
 145. 
 
 Yuyuan 214. 
 
 Zacapu 223. 
 
 Zacatecas City 38. 
 
 — State 44. 
 
 Zacatula 460. 
 
 Zachila 542. 
 Zacuatilpam 423. 
 Zamora 149. 
 
 Zanatepec 559. 
 
 Zape 104. 
 
 Zapotlan 183, 187. 
 
 — , Lago de 183. 
 
 Zarco, Francisco 101. 
 Zempoalla 424. 
 Zempoaltepec 541. 
 Zempoaltepetl 541. 
 Zimapan 423. 
 Zinapecuaro 225. 
 Zinzimeo 201. 
 
 Zirahuen 226. 
 
 Zirate 224. 
 
 Zitacuaro 200. 
 Zocoalco, Lago de 183. 
 Zona Libre 24. 
 
 Zoque 565. 
 
 Zoyacingo 465. 
 
 Zula, Rio 155. 
 Zumpango 198, 199. 
 
T HE ADVERTISEMENTS on the 
 following pages have been selected 
 with scrupulous care from among 
 many, and with a definite purpose. 
 
 The number has been limited intention- 
 ally; quality rather than quantity having been 
 the aim. W orld-travelers will recognize each 
 advertiser as of high class and unquestioned 
 trustworthiness. Many advertisements of 
 firms which we felt could not be recom- 
 mended without reservation have been re- 
 jected — and will always be excluded from 
 the Guidebook. 
 
 We believe that in granting to a few of 
 the best Steamship and Railway Companies, 
 Hotels, and Merchants, sufficient space to 
 enable them to make a somewhat extended 
 reference to their lines, specialties, and 
 wares, we are doing the traveler a genuine 
 service; for to reach an intelligent decision 
 in a matter of importance, the stranger in a 
 strange land often wants to know more about 
 such than the mere name, a quoted price, 
 or some similar stilted reference. Advertis- 
 ing is the natural response to such a wish. 
 
 The author knows every advertiser in 
 the book, and he recommends each one 
 unconditionally. If, when dealing with 
 them, the user of the Guidebook will men- 
 tion it, he will receive special attention. 
 
HOTEL REGIS 
 
 THE LARGEST AND MOST MODERN HOTEL IN MEXICO 
 
 In the heart of the 
 Business District 
 
 Facing the beautiful 
 Avenida Juarez 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 MEXICO 
 
 SAM H. LACKLAND, 
 Manager 
 
 (formerly of the Statler Hotels) 
 
 All the comforts and 
 conveniences of the most 
 modern American Hotel 
 
 500 Rooms 450 Baths 
 
 Sunny rooms, hot and cold 
 water, telephones, eleva- 
 tors, ticket and telegraph offices, steam laundry, barber 
 shop, information bureau, etc. Starting point for sightseeing 
 tours. THE REGIS Turkish, Russian and electric baths, 
 and the big swimming pool are the finest in the Republic. 
 
 CAFE and RESTAURANT SERVICE UNEXCELLED 
 CABARET DANCING 
 
 RATES: Rooms without bath, from 4 pesos a day. 
 
 Rooms with bath, from 5 to 20 pesos a day. 
 
 Make the palatial Regis your headquarters while in Mexico. 
 Write your letters and get your mail there. You’ll find all 
 your discriminating friends there. 
 
■ ♦I IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIITIIIIIII MEXICO CITY [IllHlliliW 
 
 HOTEL DE GENEVE 
 
 Mexico’s Finest, Largest and Best Hotel 
 250 Guest Rooms and Baths 
 American — Modern — Fireproof 
 
 Every Refinement necessary to the 
 Travelers' Comfort 
 
 Delicious Food; Pure Artesian Water; 
 Tennis Court; Childrens’ Playground; 
 Flower-decked Patio ; Garage. 
 
 Amid Healthy, Beautiful Surroundings. 
 Near the Business Centre, The Embassies, 
 The Railway Station, Etc. 
 
 Tramcars to all parts of the Capital 
 
 Under the personal supervision of an American 
 Hotel Manager of International Repute 
 
 MODERATE RATES 
 
 See page 23 ’2. 
 
Sulphurous, Healing Springs at Cuautlajor. 
 
 The tonic qualities of these springs are unequa- 
 lled: A natural cure for rheumatism, skin diseases 
 and kindred ills. 
 
 Ideally and beautifully situated within a green 
 oasis, within 5 hours ride of the Capital and 
 within 20 minutes rive from dthe beautiful. 
 
 San Diego Hotel, * tamo 
 
 the best hotel in the country 
 
 Hotel guestsmay enjoy swimming, riding, tennis, 
 etc as well as an excellent cuisine. 1 
 
SANBORNS 
 
 HEADQUARTERS FOR AMERICANS IN MEXICO 
 » 
 
 Drugs and Sundries, Novelties, 
 Lunch and Tea Rooms 
 
 We u ill be pleased to send you a descriptive booklet of our 
 historic and beautiful building. Send us your address. 
 
 21 SANBORNS 
 
 ill MEX,C0 
 
 
 AVE. MADERO 4 
 
 MEXICO, D. F. 
 
 
The Most Charming 
 Tea Room in Mexico 
 
 The beauty, however, is more than apparent, for 
 not only is the environment pleasing, but service 
 and music are of foremost consideration. 
 
 Sanborns’ breakfasts, luncheons and refresh- 
 ments, in this beautiful patio Tea Room are 
 world renowned. The headquarters of the 
 temporary resident as well as the meeting-place 
 of the Capital’s elite is Sanborns’ “Casa de los 
 Azulejos.” 
 
 21 SANBORNS 
 MEXICO 
 
 Special Balcony 
 Grill Service 
 
 The Dansants in 
 Ball Room 
 
 
HOTEL GUARDIOLA 
 
 Ave. F. I. Madero No. 5 
 MEXICO CITY, MEX. 
 
 LITERALLY IN THE HEART OF MEXICO CITY 
 
 The home for those who want 
 Comfort and Service 
 
 “ GUARDIOLA” RATES 
 
 Rooms without bath ( for one ) $3.00, $5.00 and $6.00 
 Rooms without bath ( for two ) . $6.00 and $8.00 
 
 Rooms with bath (for one) .... $8.00 and up 
 Parlor Suites . . $10.00 and up (Mexican Money) 
 
 ABOUT RESERVATIONS 
 
 Reservations should state the kind of room 
 desired, day and date of arrival. If a room 
 at the rate requested is not available, a room 
 nearest that rate will be reserved. 
 
 If the service you get at our hotel is not good, 
 thoroughly satisfactory service, we want to 
 know it — and we pledge you our efforts 
 toward making it so. 
 
 Scrupulously clean , commodious rooms. 
 
 SPECIAL ATTENTION TO TOURISTS 
 ENGLISH SPOKEN 
 
 S\Cexican-j4merican ^TTCanagement 
 
 F. de P. CARRAL, Manager 
 
Hotel Princess 
 
 AVE. HIDALGO NO. 59 
 
 (formerly Hombres Ilustres) 
 
 FACING THE ALAMEDA (NORTH SIDE) 
 
 Mexico City, Mexico 
 
 The finest , best equipped , modern 
 American Hotel in Mexico 
 
 Strictly high class. Perfect Service. 
 
 Moderate Rales 
 
 Apartments, singly or en suite, with private 
 baths. Steam heat, elevator, telephones, 
 hot and cold running water., in every 
 room. 
 
 The best location in Mexico City. In the 
 heart of everything. Opposite the beauti- 
 ful Alameda, with its sunshine, music 
 and flowers. 
 
 Restaurant and Grill Room. French cuisine. 
 Efficient American management. 
 
 English, Spanish, French , 
 German, Italian Spoken 
 
IMPERIAL HOTEL 
 
 CITY OF MEXICO 
 
 American Oicnership 
 
 Member American Chamber of Commerce of Mexico 
 
 ROOM and BATH (outside), $2 . 50 U.S. Cy. per day 
 
 RESTAURANT — Special Rates for tourists, $15.00 
 V. S. Cy. per week (3 meals) 
 
 AMERICAN CUISINE AND BAR 
 
 FINEST LOBBY IX THE REPT'BLIC 
 
 
HOTEL A.JVSOJVIA. 
 
 A.'Oe. Ayuntamienlo JVo. 133 
 
 Mexico ciry, Mexico 
 
 Telephones: Ericsson, 88-86 and 10-4-04 
 
 Mexicana, 5-87 and 5-88 Juarez 
 
 A NEW, THOROUGHLY EQUIPPED, HIGH-CLASS 
 
 'Residential Hotel 
 
 In the heart of the city, on a quiet avenue with magnificent 
 views over the valley to the distant volcanos. 
 
 Sanitary, newly furnished and the acme of comfort. Large, 
 airy, sunny rooms, singly with or without bath, or in suites 
 of two, three or four rooms with private dining room and 
 kitchen. The only modern hotel of its kind in the city. Fire- 
 places, telephones and many other American refinements. 
 
 'Perfect Service 
 
 Excellent grill room and restaurant. Reasonable prices. 
 Special rates for a long stay. 
 
 £. ELIS'OJVDO, 'Proprietor 
 
 ENGLISH SPOKEN IN ALL DEPARTMENTS 
 
The Charm of the Old and the Beauty of the New 
 
 CHAPULTEPEC HEIGHTS 
 
 (LOMAS DE CHAPULTEPEC) 
 
 The New Residence District of 
 Mexico’s Ancient Capital 
 
 From these Heights visitors and 
 residents look down upon the 
 Valley of Mexico, which Bayard 
 Taylor declared to have only 
 one rival — the Vale of Cashmere 
 
 Mexican International Trust Company, S. A. 
 (j) Calle Condesa 8, City of Mexico 
 
 0 
 
The Charm of the Old and the Beauty of the New 
 
 ALTAVISTA AND 
 SAN ANGEL INN 
 
 Mexico City’s Most Beautiful and 
 Healthful Suburb 
 
 This Wayside Inn, midway be- 
 tween California and the Equa- 
 tor, surrounded by bungalows 
 and gardens, a scene of historic 
 interest, is open to Quests 
 all the year 
 
 Mexican International Trust Company, S. A. 
 Calle Condesa 8, City of Mexico 
 
HOE 
 
 HOTEL MORELOS 
 
 CUERNAVACA, MEXICO 
 
 An internationally famous hotel in the most picturesque 
 and delightfully romantic town in the republic. 
 
 The rendezvous of Mexico City's social and diplomatic 
 
 life. 
 
 The starting point for the Cacahuamilpa Caverns and 
 a host of other wonderful scenic spots. Autos for trips to any 
 part of the country. 
 
 The Morelos is noted for its big, cool, clean, comfortable 
 rooms, its lovely flower-decked patio, for its excellent meals, 
 perfect service, and reasonable charges. 
 
 It is the only American hotel in Cuernavaca, and ladies 
 traveling alone choose it because it is conducted by an American 
 manager of wide experience who knows how to cater to per- 
 sons of taste and refinement. 
 
 Facing the pretty Jardin Morelos, and the Central Plaza. 
 Music by the Military Band. Near the Borda Garden, Cortes 
 Palace, and other noted places. 
 
 No tourist should leave Mexico without seeing Cuernavaca 
 and The Morelos Hotel ; both celebrated for their tranquility and 
 
 charm. 
 
 F. T. WEESNER. Proprietor 
 
 HOE 
 
 
HOTEL 
 
 SAN 
 
 FRANCIS 
 
 Guadalajara, 
 
 Mexico 
 
 The Newest, Finest 
 and Best American 
 Hotel in the Republic 
 
 / Every Refinement — Every Comfort. Delicious 
 ^ Food. Pure Water. Wide Views. Flowers. 
 
 ► Sunlight. Elevators. 
 
 . Wooden Floors. 
 
 i 
 
 \ 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 ► 
 
 Tivo Minutes Walk from the Station 
 
 Large, exquisitely clean, sunny rooms from 
 $2.00, American money, a day 
 With Bath, from $2.50 a day 
 
 SPECIAL RATES FOR A LONG STAY 
 
 Under the personal supervision of an experienced 
 American manager 
 
 “ No better climate anywhere, 
 
 No better hotel in Mexico.” 
 
 
THE AZTEC LAND 
 
 AYE. MADERO 24, MEXICO CITY 
 
 Recognized Headquarters for Antiques, 
 Art Objects and Mexican Curios 
 
 Indian Blankets 
 Pure Linen Drawnwork 
 Hand-carved Leather Nov- 
 elties 
 
 Spanish Lace and Fans 
 Fine Mexican Opals and 
 Turquoises 
 
 Cameos, Bead Necklaces 
 Velvets, Damasks, etc. 
 Photographs, Views 
 Mantillas, Mantones 
 Colonial Furniture 
 Antique Jewelry- 
 Antique Silver 
 Antique Candlesticks and 
 Brasses 
 
 Talavera Pottery 
 Archaeological Relics 
 Old Saltillo Sarapes 
 Old Paintings 
 Engravings 
 
 Spanish, English, French, Ger- 
 man, Czech spoken. Permanent 
 Exhibit of Mexican 
 Art and Craft prod- 
 ucts. Our show- 
 rooms are one of the 
 sights of Mexico. 
 
 Generallnformation 
 Bureau 
 
 LADIES’ REST ROOMS 
 
 Our Name is an 
 Unquestioned Guarantee 
 
 English Book Store 
 
 
jQa l^erla Jewelry Store 
 
 Diener Hermanos, Sues. S. en C. 
 
 F. /. c FYCadero, 3<$ 
 
 oFYCexico AhCexico 
 
 FINE DIAMOND JEWELRY, PEARLS, ART 
 BRONZES, GEMS, CHIME CLOCKS, SOUVENIRS, 
 SWISS AND AMERICAN WATCHES 
 
 Irreproachable Quality cJ "Moderate Prices 
 
 m 
 
ANTIQUES 
 
 SOUVENIRS 
 
 CURIOS 
 
 Drawn Linens, Zarapes, 
 Paintings, Statuary, 
 
 Medallions, Miniatures, Decorations, 
 Beautiful and Dainty Porcelains, 
 
 Splendid Ivory Carvings, Idols, 
 
 Superb Oriental Bronzes, Arms, 
 
 Richly Carved Furniture, Gems, 
 
 Quaint Jewels, Opals, Turquoises, 
 
 Massive Silver Pieces, Tea Sets, 
 
 Spanish Lace, Fans, Mantillas, 
 
 Coin Collections, Pottery, 
 
 Toltec and Aztec Relics, 
 
 Photos, Guide Books, Interpreters. 
 
 The finest assortment of colored post cards in Mexico. 
 
 Our Show Rooms are as interesting as the National Museum. 
 
 Goods delivered anywhere. 
 
 PRICES MODERATE. VALUES EXCEPTIONAL. 
 
 Sonora News Company 
 
 AVE. MADERO 17 CITY OF MEXICO 
 
 ( under the Hotel Iturbide ) 
 
 Other Stores and News Depots at 
 
 Nogales, Arizona Tampico, Mex. Monterey, Mex. 
 
 Rincon Antonio, Mex. Puebla, Mex. Laredo, Texas 
 
 San Geronimo, Mex. VeraCruz, Mex. Guaymas, Mex. 
 
 Cordoba, Mex. 
 
HUGO BREHME 
 
 MEXICO 
 
 
 Av. Ginco de Mayo No. 27, Room 36, 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 ( corner of Cinco de Mayo and Bolivar Street ) 
 
 Apartado postal ( P. O. Box) 2253 
 Phone Ericsson 7755 
 
 THE MOST BEAUTIFUL VIEWS OF MEXICO 
 Dr. Fischer’s Famous Water-Color Pictures 
 
 Large Collection of Artistic Postcards 
 ENLARGEMENTS 
 
OF COURSE! 
 
 you brought your 
 
 KODAK 
 
 TO PICTURESQUE MEXICO 
 
 Let us do your Finishing 
 and Enlarging 
 
 We carry a complete line of 
 Kodaks and European Cameras as 
 well as all accessories for 
 the Amateur 
 
 American Photo Supply Co.,S. A. 
 
 MEXICO, D. F. 
 
 Ave. Madero 40 P. 0. Box 1349 
 
Printing in all its Branches 
 
 Stationery and Office Supplies 
 
 American and English Magazines 
 and Newspapers 
 
 Latest Fiction 
 
 English- Spanish Text-books, 
 Phrase Books, Dictionaries 
 
 Ask for our complete list of BOOKS ON MEXICO — 
 Guides, Maps, Business Directories, etc. 
 
 We maintain the largest English Book Department in 
 Mexico 
 
El Palacio de Hierro, S. A. 
 
 ( The Iron Palace ) 
 
 Corner of Capuchinas and 5th of Febrero Streets 
 
 MEXICO CITY, MEXICO 
 
 The Finest and Largest Department Store 
 in the Republic 
 
 Tourists Headquarters for Outfits of Every Description 
 
 Dresses, downs, Jouvin’s Gloves, Hosiery, Socks, Corsets, 
 Shirts, Pa rasols, Shoes, Umbrellas, Hats, Toilet Requisites, 
 Spanish Lace Mantillas, Paradise Feathers, Mexican 
 Leather Work, Zarapes, Pottery, Drawn Work, Onyx 
 Curios, Toys, Trunks, House Furnishings, and everything 
 usually found in a high class, modern Department Store. 
 
 TOURIST TRADE A SPECIALTY 
 
 Moderate Prices 
 
 Perfect Service 
 
TARDAN HATS 
 
 FAMOUS THROUGHOUT THE AMERICAS FOR 
 
 Fine Panama Hats 
 Mexican Sombreros 
 Straw Hats 
 Felt Hats 
 
 Jl gents for John Stetson's Celebrated jdmerican Hats 
 
 Hats for Men, Women and Children 
 in infinite variety, style and price. 
 
 Our Panama Hats are the finest made; beautiful in 
 texture and finish. Much cheaper than in the United 
 States. Wear one home as a souvenir of Mexico. 
 
 English Spoken 
 
 OUR WONDERFUL SILVER AND GOLD BRAIDED 
 
 Mexican 
 Sombreros 
 
 are marvels of 
 decorative beauty. 
 
 Tardan quality is unexcelled. Tardan guarantees everything he sells. 
 Tardan prices are right. All the American tourists know, and like, Tardan. 
 All the leading hatters in Mexico sell the Tardan products. 
 
 “From Sonora to Yucatan they wear Sombreros Tardan” 
 
 TARDAN HERMANOS 
 
 Plaza de la Constitucion, 5 and 7 , MEXICO CITY 
 MEXICO 
 

 Tourist Outfitters 
 
 Shirts Collars 
 
 Hats Shoes 
 
 Clothing Ties 
 
 and 
 
 a host of dressy things for men and 
 women of taste and discrimination. 
 
 American Specialties 
 
 We have just what you want in the 
 right style at the right price. 
 
 ( >ur stock is of the finest quality and 
 
 of the latest New York design. 
 
 * 
 
 ( >ur name is an unquestioned guar- 
 antee of excellence. 
 
 Sonora News Company 
 
 Ave. Madero 17 Under Hotel Iturbide 
 
 MEXICO CITY, MEXICO 
 
 
 wmmmmmmmm tmmm iwtm 
 
 
Travelers' Accessories 
 
 , Valises and Suit Cases; Gillette 
 Safety Razors and Blades; Shav- 
 ing Soaps and Brushes; Safety 
 Razor Stroppers; Pipes; 
 Fountain Pens 
 
 French and American Perfumes; 
 Toilet Water; Cosmetics; Combs; 
 Brushes; Mirrors; Purses and 
 Leather Novelties 
 
 A Full Line of Toilet Articles of All Kinds 
 
 CIGARS AND CIGARETTES 
 
 SONORA NEWS COMPANY 
 
 Ave. Madero No. 17 — Under Hotel Iturbide 
 CITY OF MEXICO 
 
Mexico City Banking Corporation, S.A. 
 
 AVENIDA FRANCISCO I. MADERO NO. 14 
 P. O. Box 3 Bis. 
 
 MEXICO, D. F. 
 
 MEXICO 
 
 Eman L. Beck. President 
 F. J. Dunkerley, Vice President 
 John Clausen, Vice President 
 Gwynne Pool, Costlier 
 A. B. Carrillo, Asst. Cashier 
 C. J. Rittenhouse, Auditor 
 Eduardo Baz, Secretary 
 
 Foreign Department : 
 
 Cable Address: "MEXCITBANK 
 
 CODES 
 
 Western Union 
 A. B. C. 4th and 5th Editions 
 Lieber’s 
 Bentley’s 
 
 Peterson’s International 
 Genaro S. Moreno, Asst. Manager 
 
 We invite accounts of Banks and Bankers, Firms, 
 Corporations and Individuals 
 
 FUNCTIONS AND FACILITIES 
 
 BANKING 
 
 DEPARTMENT 
 
 CREDIT 
 
 DEPARTMENT 
 
 COLLECTION 
 
 DEPARTMENT 
 
 FOREIGN 
 
 DEPARTMENT 
 
 Transacts a general commercial banking 
 business; extends credit to commercial 
 houses and makes loans on collateral ; 
 invites deposit accounts. 
 
 Furnishes information in regard to the 
 financial responsibility of individuals and 
 business houses throughout the world. 
 
 Offers every facility for the expeditious 
 handling of clean and documentary bills 
 on all points in the Republic. Our terms 
 cheerfully furnished upon request. 
 
 Undertakes overseas banking transactions 
 of every description ; accepts drafts for 
 the purpose of financing shipments to or 
 from the Republic of Mexico; issues com- 
 mercial and travelers’ letters of credit ; 
 buys and sells foreign bank notes, gold 
 and silver coin. 
 
 FULL DETAILS OF THE FACILITIES OFFERED BY US 
 THROUGH OUR VARIOUS DEPARTMENTS 
 WILL BE SENT ON REQUEST 
 Members: 
 
 AMERICAN BANKERS ASSOCIATION 
 MEXICO CITY CLEARING HOUSE ASSOCIATION 
 
BANK OF MONTREAL 
 
 ( Established in 1817 ) 
 
 CAPITAL $27,250,000.00 
 
 RESERVE FUND . . . 27,250,000.00 
 
 TOTAL ASSETS . . . 653,869,000.00 
 
 Every description of general banking and 
 exchange business transacted 
 
 HEAD OFFICE: MONTREAL 
 
 Sir Vincent Meredith, Bart Sir Charles Gordon, C. B. E. 
 
 President Vice-President 
 
 Sir Frederick Williams-Taylor 
 General Manager 
 
 Branches and agencies throughout Canada and 
 Newfoundland, and abroad at: 
 
 LONDON PARIS NEW YORK 
 
 47 Threadneedle Street 6 Place Vendome 64 Wall Street 
 
 9 Waterloo Place, Pall Mall 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 ( British American Bank ) 
 
 CORRESPONDENTS THROUGHOUT THE WORLD 
 
 MEXICO CITY BRANCH: 
 
 Ave. Cinco de Mayo 2, Edificio “ La Mutua ” 
 
 f Mutual Life Building) 
 
 H. WELDON, Manager 
 
LATIN-AMERICAN ADVERTISING 
 SERVICE, S. A. 
 
 Stanley W. Sotcher, Apartado (P. O. Box) 5162 
 John C. Kempvan Ee., Jr. Cable Address, “OBRAC.” Code, Bentley 
 
 GANTE 14, MEXICO CITY, MEXICO 
 
 ========== BIG BUSINESS =~ 
 
 | can be secured in Mexico through adapted 
 advertising. 
 
 We will plan your campaign, draw it up and 
 place it — all without extra expense to you — so 
 that in language and character it will be pre- 
 cisely adapted to the particular public you desire 
 to reach. 
 
 LATIN-AMERICAN 
 ADVERTISING SERVICE, S. A. 
 
 Gante 14 Mexico City Mexico. 
 
 EVERY VISITOR FINDS 
 
 Who's who in Mexico, 
 
 Vt hat's doing in Mexico, 
 
 Current facts about Mexico, 
 
 latest statistics of activities in 
 Mexico, 
 
 Interesting articles on mining, 
 oil, farming and industrial 
 activities in Mexico, 
 
 BY READING 
 
 THE PULSE OF MEXICO 
 
 “ Mexico’s Monthly Review ” 
 
 On Trains, Boats, at all News-Stands, Hotels, etc., 
 throughout the Republic. Send a copy to your friends. 
 \ i si tors always welcome at our office: 
 
 Gante 14 Mexico City Mexico. 
 
 p 
 
 - - ^ — y, - 
 
 
 
 El Pulso de Mexico 
 
 j 
 
 > 
 
 The Pulse 
 
 •< 
 
 
 of Mexico 
 
 A 
 
 
 “ Mexico’s 
 
 A 
 
 
 Monthly Review ” 
 
 i 
 
 k 
 
 — ^ ^ ^ 
 
 J 
 
EL UNIVERSAL 
 
 The Leading Spanish Newspaper of Mexico 
 
 Presents every morning the Latest Political, 
 Commercial, Social and General 
 News of the day 
 
 Founder and Publisher: ING. FELIX F. PALAVICINI 
 
 Subscription Price: One Year, $26. Six Months, $15. 
 THE COMPANIA PERIODISTICA NACIONAL,S.A. 
 
 PUBLISHES 
 
 EL UNIVERSAL, 
 
 Mexico’s Greatest Daily Newspaper. 
 
 EL UNIVERSAL GRAFICO, 
 
 Mexico’s Most Popular Evening Newspaper 
 EL UNIVERSAL ILUSTRADO, 
 
 Mexico’s Finest Illustrated Weekly. 
 
 EL UNIVERSAL TAURINO, 
 
 The Bull Fighters’ Chronicle. 
 
 The most authoritative mediums for news and 
 information of Mexico and the outside world. 
 
 Members of the Associated Press 
 
 Specia 1 articles on Mexican Commercial and 
 Political Subjects 
 
 The aforementioned newspapers are the 
 best advertising mediums in the 
 Mexican Republic 
 
 Address all communications to the 
 
 Calle de Iturbide No. 11, ( P. O. Box 909 ) 
 MEXICO CITY, MEXICO 
 
AMERICAN 
 
 CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 
 OF MEXICO 
 
 A membership in this Chamber is a 
 necessary part of the equipment of an 
 American house doing Business in Mexico. 
 The Chamber has 702 members, of whom 
 450 are American manufacturers, ex- 
 porters and importers, using our service 
 of advice and information. 
 
 We shall be very glad to correspond with 
 houses in the United States who want to 
 enter the Mexican field directly or through 
 an agent or representative, or who want 
 to buy Mexican products of any sort. 
 
 The Organization is a Service Station to 
 
 American Exporters 
 in the Mexican Field 
 
 American Chamber of Commerce 
 of Mexico, S. C. L. 
 
 Cor. Motolinia and Ave. Madero 
 Apartado 82 Bis 
 MEXICO CITY, MEXICO 
 
The Finest Cigars 
 in Mexico 
 
 BALSA HERMANOS, “La Prueba” Factory, 
 
 Every discriminating traveler knows the famous Flores *4^ 
 de Balsa, Coronas, Coronitas (half Coronas) Nacionales de SS2 
 Balsa, and other celebrated products of this house, and 
 lovers of good cigars always smoke them. 
 
 The Nacionales de Balsa Hermanos (with an Aztec ® 
 Calendar Stone band) are made specially for the American (jJ^i 
 who likes a fine, mild, fragrant cigar at a reasonable price. 
 
 The La Prueba Factory of Balsa Hermanos is the 
 
 largest in the Republic. The tobacco is grown on their 
 own vast plantations and only the very finest and most gjg? 
 fragrant leaves and fillers are made up into their matchless 
 brands. ' |j 
 
 As Balsa Hermanos Cigars are imitated by unscrupulous xpe 
 dealers, our foreign friends are earnestly requested to see 
 that the cigars they buy are the true Balsa product, and By 
 that each bears the name of Balsa Hermanos, Vera Cruz, (jfjj) 
 Ver. (state of Vera Cruz), Mexico. 2J5 
 
 For Sale Everywhere in the Mexican Republic 
 
 ALWAYS 
 
 Bear the Label: 
 
 Vera Cruz, Ver. (state of Vera Cruz) 
 (Established in 1864) 
 
EL BUEN TONO, S. A. 
 
 Alfonso XIII 
 Canarios 
 Canela Pura 
 Caprichos 
 Chorritos 
 Congresistas 
 Costenos 
 Covadonga 
 Elegantes 
 
 Flores de Arroz 
 Franceses 
 Gardenias 
 Habaneros 
 Margaritas 
 Mascot a 
 
 Reina Victoria 
 Sabrosos 
 Sublimes 
 Superiores 
 
 De Luxe and Grand Luxe Cigarettes: 
 
 Mejores, Covadonga Arroz, Parisiense Soberbios 
 Excelentes Habanos, Primores, Camelias, Eclipses. 
 
 The Largest Cigarette Factory 
 in Mexico 
 
 Grand Prize 
 Paris, 1900 
 
 Grand Prize 
 St. Louis, Mo., 1904 
 
 Leading Brands : 
 
 Special Prices For Export 
 
 Main Offices and Factory : 
 
 PLAZA SAN JUAN, MEXICO CITY 
 
Mexican Cigars 
 
 For a Quarter of a Century the three 
 most popular brands of 
 cigars have been 
 
 LA RICA HOJA 
 
 LA VIOLETA and 
 
 LA SIN RIVAL 
 
 Sold throughout the Republic 
 
 FACTORIES: 
 
 ORIZABA AND SAN ANDRES TUXTLA 
 MEXICO CITY AGENCY: 
 
 Avenida 5 de Mayo 39 E. 
 
 ( under Hotel Gillow ) 
 
 GUSTAVO MAYER Y CIA 
 
 Apartado ( P. O. Box ) 49 
 
 ORIZABA, Ver. 
 
 Ask for a “SIN RIVAL” cigar or a “B.B.B ” 
 ( three B ) cigar, and you will get the best. 
 
 
1 MEXICO TRAMWAYS m 
 I COMPANY If 
 
 0® ( COMPANIA DE TRANVIAS DE MEXICO, S. A. ) 0® 
 
 To Visitors to Mexico City 
 
 The following places of £reat historical interest in 
 the neighborhood of Mexico City can be reached 
 in safety and comfort by the suburban trams of 
 this Company: 
 
 Atzcapotzalco 
 
 Chapultepec 
 
 Churubusco 
 
 Coyoacan 
 
 Country Club 
 
 Guadalupe 
 
 Ixtacalco 
 
 Ixtapalapa 
 
 La Estrella ( Hill of the Star 
 La Venta ( El Desierto de los 
 Leones ) 
 
 Pedre^al — Coyoacan 
 
 Popotla 
 
 San An^el 
 
 Santa Fe 
 
 Tacuba 
 
 Tacubaya 
 
 Tizapan 
 
 Tlalnepantla 
 
 Tlalpara 
 
 Vi^a Canal 
 
 Xochimilco 
 
 For particulars of all routes and useful historical 
 and archeological information, see the Company’s 
 Official Guide — price 50 centavos — to be obtained 
 at the Company’s Head Offices, 2a Gante, No. 20, 
 Mexico City, and at the Suburban ticket office in 
 the Zocalo, Plaza Constitucion, No. 33. 
 
The American Chamber of 
 Commerce of Tampico, Mexico 
 
 Serves the American business Man who wishes to buy 
 or sell in Mexico, and is of invaluable aid to him — as well as 
 to Americans in the Republic. 
 
 An active member of the greatest Chambers of Com- 
 merce of the U. S. A ♦, this unique and perfectly equipped 
 organization is non-partisan, bi-lingual, international and 
 progressive. Much of Tampico’s extraordinary growth and 
 development is due to the sustained and intelligent efforts 
 of the men composing this body. 
 
 The Journal of the American Chamber of Commerce of 
 Tampico keeps its readers ii> active touch with everything 
 of importance pertaining to Mexico. Its timely and trust- 
 worthy articles on Agriculture, Mining, Haciendas, Fruit 
 Ranches, Oil and Trade development, etc., etc., are practical 
 and immensely valuable. Subscription price, $2 a year, 
 American money. 
 
 The Neva Business Directory of Tampico, issued by 
 the Chamber of Commerce, should be on the desk of every 
 man interested in Mexico. By mail, postpaid, $2.50 U. S. 
 money. 
 
 The Employment Service of the Chamber of Commerce 
 is of value to men wanting jobs and jobs wanting men. 
 
 WE ARE GLAD TO SERVE 
 
 The American Chamber of Commerce 
 of Tampico, S. C. L. 
 APARTADO NO. 777, TAMPICO, MEXICO 
 
FIRE-PROOF 
 
 CONSTRUCTION 
 
 MODERN 
 
 CONVENIENCES 
 
 HOTEL IMPERIAL 
 
 TAMPICO, MEXICO 
 
 The finest and most comfortable hotel in the 
 city. Hot and cold water. Telephone service. 
 Baths. Elevator. Moderate rates. 
 
 77* ree Blocks from Depot and Fiscal Wharf 
 
 S. H. CASEY, Manager 
 

 CAFE LOUISIAN 
 
 TAMPICO, MEXICO 
 
 THE ONLY STRICTLY HIGH CLASS 
 
 AMERICAN RESTAURANT 
 
 IN TAMPICO 
 
 SPOTLESSLY CLEAN 
 DELICIOUS COOKING 
 PERFECT SERVICE 
 MUSIC — DANCING 
 
 We cater to those discriminating travelers 
 who demand good food at 
 reasonable prices 
 
 LADIES' DINING ROOM 
 MEN'S GRILL ROOM 
 
 Special arrangements for Dinner Parties and 
 Banquets 
 
 CALLE ADUANA, NO. 26 
 
 BETWEEN ESTADO AND COMERCIO STREETS 
 
 ( 2 minutes' walk from the Imperial Hotel ) 
 
 FRED C. SWENSON, Proprietor 
 
 
 
HOTEL SOUTHERN 
 
 TAMPICO, MEXICO 
 
 A Celebrated Colonial Hotel known throughout 
 Mexico as 
 
 The Home of Oil Men, 
 Commercial Travelers, 
 
 and those discriminating tourists who prefer comfort 
 to style and who appreciate 
 
 Good Service, Reasonable Rates 
 
 and a location in 
 
 The Business Center of the City 
 
 0 
 
 Commodious Sample Rooms 
 E 
 
 Within easy walking distance of the Docks and 
 Railway Station 
 
 E 
 
 American Management 
 
c . T o n )l 
 
 I CZZZ ( PE T ) 
 
 THE TAMPICO BANKING 
 COMPANY, S. A. 
 
 TAMPICO, MEXICO 
 
 Organized 1912 
 
 Members American Bankers Association 
 
 < 
 
 Resources 6 Millions 
 
 OFFICERS AND DIRECTORS 
 
 BEN’W. FOUTS, President 
 
 FLOYD W. DUNKERLEY, Manager 
 
 W. R. JONES, Cashier 
 
 CARLOS C. MILLIKEN, Asst. Cashier 
 
 W. A. BOWIE 
 
 ED. WILLIAMS 
 
 We invite correspondence relative to your 
 banking requirements in the world’s greatest 
 Oil Fields. 
 
 Every description of exchange and general 
 banking business transacted. 
 
 Special facilities offered for exchange busi- 
 ness on the United States and foreign countries. 
 
 ' l l ( O I = — — >1 |C=3| [ 
 
 >HI 
 
 non 
 
 o k> 
 
A. G. Mason Company 
 
 A G. Mason C. C. Freston 
 
 General Insurance Agents 
 
 Southern Hotel Building, Apartado 141 
 
 TAMPICO, MEXICO 
 
 The Largest General Insurance Agency 
 in North-Central Mexico 
 
 We insure Anything , Anyuhere in Mexico 
 
 We represent the greatest and strongest Insurance 
 Companies in the World and. 
 our Policies cover 
 
 ACCIDENT, LIFE, HEALTH, FIRE, 
 TRAVELERS’ BAGGAGE, FREIGHT, EXPRESS 
 MATTER, POSTAL PACKAGES 
 AND 
 
 A nyt/iing Stationary or in Transit 
 
 WE CARRY POLICIES AGGREGATING 
 FORTY-TWO MILLION 
 DOLLARS GOLD 
 
 Let us Bond your Employees. Let us pay your 
 Losses. Square Dealing. Prompt Settlements. 
 
 WRITE US FOR ESTIMATES 
 
DROGUERIA AMERICANA 
 "LA HUASTECA” S. A. 
 
 (The American Drug Store) 
 
 Corner Comercio & Aurora Sts. 
 TAMPICO, MEXICO 
 
 Soda Fountain Service, Pastry, Pure 
 
 Fountain Pens and Inks, Safety Ra- 
 
 Drugs and Chemicals, American 
 
 zors and Blades, Kodak Films, 
 
 Chocolates, Patent Medicines, 
 
 Pipes and Smokers’ Supplies, % 
 
 Toilet Soaps, Perfumes, 
 
 Cigars and Cigarettes, Sta- 
 
 Talcums, Toilet Waters 
 
 tionery, Thermos, Pathe 
 
 of best French per- 
 
 TalkingMachines and 
 
 fumers, Combs 
 
 Records, and Man- 
 
 and Brushes, 
 
 icure Sets. 
 
 We make Fine American Candies 
 Lederle’s Biologicals, Always Kept Fresh 
 
 Prescriptions filled by Registered Chemist 
 Analytical Laboratory 
 
 QUALITY - SERVICE - MODERATE PRICES 
 
General Machinery & 
 Supply Company, S.A. 
 
 Apartado 258, Rivera 27 
 
 TAMPICO, MEXICO 
 
 Agents Cadillac and Studebaker 
 Automobiles 
 
 Oil Field and Mining Supplies 
 Shelf and Heavy Hardware 
 Automobile Accessories 
 Builders’ and Contractors’ Supplies 
 Marine Hardware and Supplies 
 Paints, Oils and Varnishes 
 
 Agricultural, Industrial, Oil Field and Mining 
 Machinery 
 
 Large Stocks in Tampico. Wire or Write for Quotations 
 
 HIGHEST QUALITY 
 
 LOWEST PRICE 
 
THE TAMPICO 
 TRIBUNE 
 
 A Weekly Newspaper of 16 to 24 pages 
 published in the English language, con- 
 taining all the news of Tampico, the 
 oil fields and farms. Up-to-date in 
 every detail. 
 
 Universally recognized as the leading 
 foreign daily newspaper in Mexico. 
 
 The Tribune is the newspaper essential to 
 the investor, the tourist, or the adver- 
 tiser interested in Mexican affairs. 
 
 In General News — both cable and local — 
 editorials, special features, and in 
 articles on trade, financial, oil and 
 shipping conditions, The Tampico 
 Tribune stands at the head. 
 
 Subscription Price $3.00, U. S. Currency, 
 a year. 
 
 THE TAMPICO TRIBUNE 
 
 TAMPICO, MEXICO 
 
Sonora News Company 
 
 Calle Aduana 16 
 TAMPICO, MEXICO 
 
 Books, Magazines, 
 Stationery 
 
 Guidebooks, Spanish Methods, 
 Interpreters, Dictionaries, Custom House 
 Tariff, Mining and Stamp Laws, 
 
 Oil Regulations, Civil, Commercial 
 and other Codes 
 
 Mexican Souvenirs and Curios 
 Cigars and Cigarettes 
 Typewriters, Adding Machines 
 Fountain Pens, Safety Razors 
 Fishing Tackle 
 
 pH 
 ^ 1 
 ' 4 
 
 4 
 
 . 1 
 
 OIL FIELD OFFICE OUTFITS 
 AND SUPPLIES 
 
 The Right Goods at the Right Prices 
 
 Agents for Remington Typewriters and 
 Dalton Adding Machines 
 
Shirts, Hats, Shoes 
 
 and everything in the haberdashery line 
 will be found at 
 
 EL REGAL 
 
 (SONORA NEWS CO., Proprietors) 
 Calle de Comercio No. 86 
 
 TAMPICO, MEXICO 
 
 Stylish American Specialties 
 
 in wide variety at the 
 lowest prices 
 
 Clothing ready to wear, Palm Beach Suits, 
 Straw and Felt Hats, Suit Cases, Valises, 
 Collars, Ties, Underwear, etc., etc. 
 
 FINEST GOODS — LATEST STYLES 
 
 Rest values of any store in Mexico 
 
HITCHMAN and HOWARD 
 
 Calle Rivera No. 32 
 TAMPICO, MEXICO 
 
 Post office address: Telegrams to: 
 
 \partado 561 Calle Rivera 32 altos 
 
 OILFIELD MAPS 
 
 H ell and Drilling Reports 
 
 Statistics on Oil Development and 
 Production 
 
 Blue Printing 
 Engineering Supplies 
 Land and Pipe Line Surveys 
 Concession Plans 
 etc., etc. 
 
 Hitchman’s 
 
 Maps , Plans 9 Reports and Surveys 
 
 are the recognized standards for 
 accuracy and trustworthiness. 
 
 New York Agents: C S. HAMMOND & CO. 
 30 Church Street. New York Citv 
 
Oil Storage Tanks 
 
 We invite inquiries for oil storage 
 tanks of all sizes, agitators, stills, 
 condenser boxes, tar coolers, and 
 other steel plate construction. We 
 furnish plans, specifications and 
 estimates without obli^atin^ you. 
 
 CHICAGO BRIDGE & IRON WORKS 
 
 NEW YORK CHICAGO DALLAS 
 
 Represented by 
 
 HO U Z E C& 
 
 ARMSTRONG 
 
 TAMPICO 
 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 Factory Railroad 
 
 Tanks Tanks 
 
 BUILDERS OF HORTON TANKS AND STEEL PLATE PRODUCTS 
 
 94 
 
HAL L. BRENNAN 
 
 mmj 
 
 
 S. E. LEONARD 
 
 BRENNAN & LEONARD 
 
 Customhouse Brokers, Forwarding and 
 Clearing House Agents and 
 
 MANUFACTURERS’ AGENTS 
 
 1003 Iturbide Street; Laredo, Texas 
 Av. Uruguay 19, Mexico City, Mexico 
 
 Operating up - to - date warehouses in Laredo, 
 Texas, and Mexico City. 
 
 We are the connecting link between 
 American and Mexican railways. 
 
 the 
 
 Our service is widespread and we are thorough- 
 ly equipped to render prompt, efficient and 
 satisfying service at all times. 
 
 With splendid banking arrangements with all 
 principal banks in Mexico, we are in a position 
 to render information to all shippers in the 
 handling of business with the republic of 
 Mexico. 
 
 Laredo, Texas, is the main gateway to Mexico, 
 as it practically divides the republic in half. 
 We are therefore able to give unexcelled ser- 
 vice to all points in the republic. 
 
 WE DO PURCHASING FOR OUR CUSTOMERS ON ORDERS 
 
 
 
 
J. K. Beretta, President 
 
 B. M. Alexander, Vice-President M. W. Brennan, Cashier 
 
 Sam W. Brown, Vice-President A. L. Vidaurri, Asst. Cashier 
 
 LAREDO NATIONAL BANK 
 
 United States Government Depository 
 
 Capital, Surplus and Undivided Profits Over 
 
 $500,000.00 
 
 THE STRONG CONSERVATIVE BANK OF THE BORDER 
 
 We solicit your business, which we assure you will 
 always be given the best possible attention 
 
 SONORA NEWS COMPANY 
 
 LAREDO, TEXAS 
 
 Mexican Art Goods; Souvenirs and Travelers’ 
 Requisites ; Guides to Mexico ; English-Spanish 
 Text Books; Dictionaries; Spanish Grammars 
 and Methods for Learning Spanish; Pocket 
 Interpreters ; Maps ; Post Cards ; Fiction, etc. 
 Mexican Opals; Drawn Linen; Fine Zarapes ; 
 Feather Cards; Kodaks and Photographic 
 Specialties ; Fine Stationery. Highest quality 
 Goods at Sensible Prices. For information 
 about anything Mexican, write 
 
 A. W. LANG, Local Manager 
 
 SONORA NEWS COMPANY, LAREDO, TEXAS 
 
R. R. FOGEL & CO. 
 
 173 BROADWAY NEW YORK 
 
 Manufacturers of 
 
 SOLID GOLD, ROLLED PLATE AND MOTHER OF PEARL 
 
 JEWELRY 
 
 PALM BEACH 
 Trade Mark 
 
 1-1 K. GOLD FILLED CHAINS 
 May be worn on belt, coat lapel or vest. 
 
 Our Gold Filled Chains are made of solid gold over 
 composition metal, in red, green and white gold or 
 in combination of these colors. 
 
 
 SUNSET SNAP, 
 separable links 
 are made in a 
 large variety of handsome patterns, in 14 K. gold 
 Filled, Platinio and Mother of Pearl. 
 
 Ml Vi ays Ready Pencils are the most practical and 
 best. and are made in Silver and 14 K. Gold Filled, 
 and in three sizes. 
 
R. R. FOGEL & CO. 
 
 173 BROADWAY NEW YORK 
 
 Manufacturers oj 
 
 SOLID GOLD, ROLLED PLATE AND MOTHER OF PEARL 
 
 JEWELRY 
 
 FOGEL and SUN 14 K. Gold Filled ONE PIECE 
 Collar Buttons 
 
NATIONAL RAILWAYS OF MEXICO 
 
 AND OPERATED LINES 
 
 Mexican Government Administration ) 
 
 The most important railway system in Mexico, extend- 
 ing from the United States border to the Guatemalan 
 frontier; also, between leading Pacific Ocean and Mexican 
 
 Gulf ports. 
 
 11,142 KILOMETERS 2,379 KILOMETERS 
 
 STANDARD GAUGE NARROW GAUGE 
 
 SEA PORTS 
 
 GULF OF MEXICO PACIFIC OCEAN 
 
 Tampico 
 
 Veracruz Manzanillo 
 
 Puerto Mexico (Coatzacoalcos Salina Cruz 
 
 BORDER GATE-WAYS 
 
 El Paso, Eagle Pass, Laredo and Brownsville, on the United States 
 border. 
 
 Suchiate, on the Guatemalan frontier. 
 
 Direc t connections with principal United States railways and with 
 numerous steamship lines. 
 
 REPRESENTATIVES ABROAD 
 
 F. P. DE HOYOS, 
 
 General Agent, 
 
 3505 Woolworth Bldg., NEW YORK, N. Y. 
 
 GEO. B. ALEMAN 
 General Agent, 
 
 203 Foster Building, HOUSTON, Texas 
 
 F. TREVINO 
 General Agent, 
 
 I. & G. N. Ry. Depot Bldg., LAREDO, Tex. 
 
 GENERAL OFFICES 
 
 2a Calle de Bolivar No. 19, MEXICO CITY, Mex. 
 
NATIONAL RAILWAYS OF MEXICO 
 
 AND OPERATED LINES 
 
 ( Mexican Government Administration ) 
 
 Passenger trains carrying through Pullman sleepers 
 and club -cars, with broiler service, daily, 
 
 BETWEEN 
 
 MEXICO CITY and SAN ANTONIO, Tex., via Laredo, 
 
 “ “ “ HOUSTON, Tex., via Brownsville, 
 
 “ “ “ EL PASO, Texas, 
 
 TAMPICO, Tams “ HOUSTON, Tex., via Brownsville. 
 
 Daily through Pullman sleepers, with broiler service, 
 BETWEEN 
 
 MONTERREY and HOUSTON, Texas, via Laredo, 
 
 TORREON “ SAN ANTONIO, Tex., via Eagle Pass, 
 MEXICO CITY “ TAMPICO, via San Luis Potosi', 
 
 MEXICO CITY “ GUADALAJARA. 
 
 National Railways , sleepers, with broiler service, daily, 
 BETWEEN 
 
 MEXICO CITY and VERACRUZ (short line 
 GUADALAJARA and MANZANILLO; 
 
 AND THREE TIMES PER WEEK, 
 
 BETWEEN: 
 
 VERACRUZ and SUCHIATE 
 
 A. G. ROEL J. M. CARDENAS 
 
 General Passenger Agent, Assistant General Passenger 
 
 Agent 
 
 2a Calle de Bolivar No. 19, MEXICO, D. F. Mex. 
 
GENERAL OFFICES 
 
 of the 
 
 National Railways of Mexico 
 
 J 
 
 and 
 
 Operated Lines 
 
 2a Calle de Bolivar, No. 19 
 MEXICO CITY 
 
 MEXICO 
 
Mexican Railway 
 Company 
 
 “The Picturesque Line of Mexico” 
 
 Had this railway been constructed with 
 the especial object of providing beautiful scen- 
 ery, it could not have been more successfully 
 accomplished. 
 
 The only standard gauge and shortest line 
 between Mexico City, Orizaba, Cordoba and 
 V eracruz. 
 
 Through Daily Trains. Broiler = Buffet Sleeping 
 Cars. Through service between 
 Mexico City and Puebla 
 
 QUICK FREIGHT TRAIN SERVICE 
 
 Special Excursion Trains every Sunday to 
 San Juan Teotihuacan, where may be ex- 
 plored the Historical Pyramids and their in- 
 teresting interiors. 
 
 Mexico City Ticket Office 
 
 “HOTEL DEL COLISEO” 
 
 3a Calle de Bolivar No. 28 
 
 For Passenger and Freight rates, or any other desired 
 information address 
 
 E. G. WUERPEL 
 
 General Freight and Passenger Agent 
 
NEW ORLEANS- 
 BROWNSVILLE 
 
 GATEWAY to and from 
 
 MEXICO 
 
 Through 
 
 Pullman Sleepers 
 
 New Orleans and Brownsville 
 Houston and Tampico 
 
 Houston and Mexico City via 
 Brownsville 
 
 Houston and Monterrey via 
 Corpus Christi and Laredo 
 
 THROUGH 
 
 PULLMAN CLUB -CAFE CARS 
 
 SERVING ALL MEALS BETWEEN 
 HOUSTON AND MEXICO CITY AND TAMPICO 
 
 TTese cars provide comfortable lounging room besides serving meals 
 and refreshments; affording the greatest degree of travel comfort. 
 
 C. W. STRAIN, General Passenger Agent 
 HOUSTON, TEXAS 
 
Go East or West by Sea 
 
 Visit Mexico, Guatemala, Salvador, 
 Nicaragua, Panama Canal, 
 Havana (Eastbound) 
 
 The new de luxe passenger and express-freight service of the 
 
 PACIFIC MAIL STEAMSHIP COMPANY 
 
 between San Francisco, Los Angeles and New York is a travel 
 opportunity of never-ending interest 
 and delight. 
 
 Si^ht-seein^ stops ashore at picturesque Manzanillo, Mexico ; 
 San Jose de Guatemala; Acajutla and La Libertad, Salvador; 
 Corinto, Nicaragua; Cristobal and Balboa, Canal Zone ; 
 
 Havana, Cuba ; Baltimore and Norfolk. 
 
 Sailings from New York, San Francisco and Los Angeles 
 about every 17 days. Modern American twin-screw ships, 
 “Colombia,” “Ecuador,” “Venezuela,” and “Santa Ana,” 
 especially designed for Tropical service. De Luxe suites. 
 Home-like staterooms. Electric fan in every cabin. Deck 
 sports. Music. Swimming, tank. More than 74 years’ ex- 
 perience in pleasing passengers makes Pacific Mail cuisine a 
 delight. Fares, first-class, $270 and $300. 
 
 PANAMA SERVICE 
 
 Between.San Francisco, Los Angeles, Mexico-Central America 
 and Canal Zone. Frequent sailings by popular 
 and comfortable liners. 
 
 For complete information communicate with Pacific Mail 
 office nearest your home, or your favorite 
 steamship tourist a&ent or 
 railroad a&ent. 
 
 503 So. Spring, St. General Offices 10 Hanover Square 
 LOS ANGELES SAN FRANCISCO NEW YORK 
 
 Agents in Mexico: 
 
 Mazatlan, Wohler Bartning , Sues. 
 
 Manzanillo, Adolfo Stoll & Co. 
 
 Guadalajara, G. Amsinck & Co. 
 
 Mexico City, Berea O’Kelly & Co. 
 
THE MEXICAN STATES LINE 
 
 COMPANIA NAVEERA DE LOS ESTADOS DE MEXICO, S. A. 
 
 Oj>erates a fast, frequent and popular service between 
 San Francisco, Panama and Central American Points 
 _ T >■*!! IVdro Los Angeles), Ensenada, San Jose del Cabo, 
 I* . S.-nua L« -ilia, Guaymas, Mazatlan, San Bias, Puerto 
 V • M inzaiiillo, Acapulco, Puerto Angel and Salina Cruz, 
 
 Mexico ..'id by trans-shipment to many minor ports connecting 
 th the chief cities of the Republic— thence to Champerico and 
 •1 ' < !<• Guatemala; La Libert ad and La TTnion, in Salvador; 
 1 Vina] >;da and Corinto, Nicaragua. 
 
 >*• amer- connect at San Francisco with ships for Northern 
 Orient Japan, China, India, etc. !, and at 
 ; ( niz and Central American Ports with steamers for the 
 Panama Canal, European, Atlantic, and South American Ports. 
 
 A > t i :t < Vuz a direct railway connection is made across the 
 L f hmu> < ; Tehuantepec to Puerto Mexico and Vera Cruz with 
 - ? ■ b t New Orleans, Cuba, New York and European Ports. 
 
 1 -]•!• ndid ships of this popular line carry travelers to every 
 
 • nt ] ! « e on the Pacific Coast, in far greater comfort than is 
 ]MMRible by railway. 
 
 \ i nh t ful voyage to tropical latitudes, replete with charm, 
 
 and with the safety and luxury of a fine hotel. 
 
 General Offices: Mazatlan, Mexico, and San Francisco, California. 
 1 ’ill inf nn: it ion as to sailing dates, rates, etc., on application to 
 tin i oinp.-Tiy - agents at any of the ports mentioned. 
 
 I nf« r< ! . to the Company’s fine fleet, see the opposite page. 
 
LA COMPANIA NAVIERA DE LOS ESTADOS 
 DE MEXICO, S. A. 
 
 (THE MEXICAN STATES LINE) 
 
 Steamships are large, speedy, commodious, and of the most modern 
 construction. Stanchly built, and fitted with every known appliance 
 to ensure the comfort and safety of passengers, they are as popular 
 with the traveling public as any of the finest trans- Atlantic ships. 
 
 # The quality of the ships’ personnel ; the provision of efficient ser- 
 vice, whether in the large, airy, perfectly-equipped staterooms, on 
 deck or in the handsome and spacious dining-room; the maintenance 
 of the highest standards of food and other requisites; the library, 
 music and the various games supplied for the entertainment of 
 passengers, with the added consideration of personal security in well- 
 found, sea-worthy ships, manned by experienced seamen, combine 
 to make travel by one of the Mexican States Line steamers one of 
 the most agreeable of human experiences. 
 
 Balboa’s Ocean is one of the most beautiful in the world, and few 
 ports are more charmingly picturesque than those of Mexico and 
 Central America. 
 
 The voyage on a ship of this well-known line insures perfect com- 
 fort, rest and enjoyment, with delightful company on shipboard 
 and liberal stopovers en route. 
 
 Write for complete information to the Mexican States Line, 
 Mazatlan, Mexico, or San Francisco, California. 
 
 For a list of ports touched at, see the opposite page. 
 
MEXICAN NAVIGATION COMPANY 
 
 COMPANIA N A VIERA MEXICANA, S. A.) 
 
 “COAHUILA” 
 
 “JALISCO” 
 
 “TABASCO” 
 
 “TAMAULIPAS” 
 
 “TEHUANTEPEC 
 
 “WASHINGTON” 
 
 “BOLIVAR” 
 
 of 3,200 tons capacity 
 “ 3,650 “ 
 
 “ 3,650 “ 
 
 “ 1,228 “ 
 
 “ 1,228 “ 
 
 “ 928 “ 
 
 “ 2,550 “ 
 
 “ 2 550 “ 
 
 Company Fleet 
 
 .S. “MEXICO” 
 
 MEXICAN GULF SERVICES 
 
 Sailings every ten days from Vera Cruz for: 
 
 Puerto Mexico, Front era, Laguna, Campeche and 
 Progreso. 
 
 Sailings every 20 days from Vera Cruz to Tampico. 
 
 Sailings every 25 days from New Orleans to Progreso 
 and Vera Cruz. 
 
 Irregular Service between New Orleans, Tampico, Vera 
 Cruz and Progreso subject to port conditions. 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAN SERVICES 
 
 Sailings every 40 days from San Francisco, Cal., for: 
 
 San Pedro, Ensenada, San Jose del Cabo, Mazatlan, 
 Guaymas, La Paz, Mazatlan, San Bias, Manzanillo, 
 Acapulco, and Salina Cruz. 
 
 Sailings every 15 days from Guaymas for Salina Cruz, 
 calling at Topolobampo, Santa Rosalia, La Paz, San Jose 
 del Cabo, Mazatlan, San Bias, Puerto Vallarta, Manzan- 
 illo, Zihuatanejo, Acapulco, Minizo, and Puerto Angel. 
 
 PASSENGER SERVICE 
 
 All the ships have splendid accommodations and equip- 
 ment for the transportation of passengers. 
 
 CARGO SERVICE 
 
 General between all the ports mentioned. 
 
 Special by the Manzanillo and Salina Cruz lines, in 
 eonneetion with the National Railways of Mexico: through 
 rates between Pacific Coast ports and interior points. 
 
 TORCUATO MARCOR FELIX GONZALEZ 
 
 General Agent Sub-Agent 
 
 GENERAL OFFICES 
 Calle de Gante No. 19 
 
 MEXICO, D. F 
 
THE GRAND HOTEL, Ltd. 
 
 YOKOHAMA, JAPAN 
 
 Telegraphic Address : Mitchell McDonald 
 
 “ Grand ” Managing Director 
 
 The Hotel with a World-Wide Reputation 
 
 Finest location in Yokohama. On the Bund, over- 
 looking Tokyo Bay. Ideal Situation. Motor-car 
 meets all express trains. English-speaking porters 
 meet incoming ships and relieve the passengers of 
 all trouble and delay at the custom-house. 
 
 Accommodations for 500 guests. Spacious Ball 
 Rooms. Beautiful Dining Rooms. Reception Rooms. 
 Orchestra at Meals. Dances and Special Entertain- 
 ments for Guests. Matchless Views. 
 
 Notable for the beauty of its location, the attractive- 
 ness of its surroundings, the perfection of its system 
 and for its wholesome and delicious food. The latter 
 is prepared with scrupulous attention to cleanliness. 
 Pure drinking water. Private Garage. Laundry. 
 
 Rooms single or en suite, with or without baths. 
 Moderate Rates. American Plan. 
 
Proposed 
 
 Murrav Hill Hotel The Belmont TheBiltmore Hotel Commodore 
 
 1 — mIs.V.P. JamesWoods Grand Central Ter. George W.J>weeney.Y. p. 
 
 cnvman 
 
 fSeuJ York, 
 
 Sofin7fl c S. Bowman, President 
 
 eis 
 
 A personal hospitality and individual atten- 
 tion are assured by the combined efforts of 
 a group of the best hotel managers in the 
 world. 
 
 The traveler arriving at Grand Central 
 Terminal can go directly to any one of the 
 Bowman Hotels at Pershing Square without 
 taxicab or baggage transfer. 
 
 Surface cars, elevated and subways at hand 
 bring every part of the city within easy touch. 
 
 Pershing Square ; SVew York, 
 
 Bike World Centre of Great Hotels 
 
BOWMAN HOTELS 
 
 JOHN McE. BOWMAN, President 
 
 The Bowman Hotels consist of 
 the following,: 
 
 THE BILTMORE, New York 
 
 Eugene D. Miller, Vice President 
 
 THE COMMODORE, New York 
 
 George W. Sweeney, Vice President 
 
 THE BELMONT, New York 
 
 James Woods, Vice President 
 
 THE ANSONIA, New York 
 
 Edward M. Tierney, Vice President 
 
 MURRAY HILL HOTEL, New York 
 
 James Woods, Vice President 
 
 WESTCHESTER BILTMORE, Rye, N. Y. 
 PROVIDENCE BILTMORE, Providence, R. I. 
 
 John McE. Bowman, L. C. Wallick 
 
 HOTEL SEVILLA, Havana, Cuba 
 
 H. B. Judkins, Resident Manager 
 THE GRISWOLD, Eastern Pt., Conn. (Summer) 
 
 Earle E. Garley, Vice President 
 
 THE BELLE VIEW, Belleair, Florida (Winter) 
 
 Earle E. Carley, Vice President 
 
 LOS ANGELES BILTMORE, Los Angles, Cal.. 
 
 James Woods, Vice President (Now Building) 
 
HOTEL SEVILLA 
 
 Havana, Cuba 
 
 JOHN McE. BOWMAN, President 
 H. B. JUDKINS, Resident Manager 
 
 X N Havana one £oes to the 
 Sevilla as inevitably as one 
 &oes to The Biltmore in New 
 York. It is the finest hotel in Cuba. 
 Situated just off the famous Prado, 
 in the center of the city, with all the 
 “things to see” close by. 
 
HOTEL SEVILLA 
 
 Havana, Cuba 
 
 The Sevilla’s patio tea-room and 
 dinner dancing are favored by local 
 society and tourists. 
 
 With theatres and clubs at hand, 
 facing the Presidential Palace and a 
 beautiful park, the hotel’s location 
 is ideal. 
 
 The service and cuisine are delight- 
 fully American, while the hig,h ceil- 
 ings, tiled floors and private balconies 
 provide a pleasing foreign atmos- 
 phere. 
 
MEXICO’S LEADING 
 HOUSE-FURNISHERS 
 
 ] 
 
 DINNERWARE 
 
 SILVERWARE 
 
 GLASSWARE 
 
 KITCHENWARE 
 
 LAMPS 
 
 "GIFTS 
 
 ALWAYS THE 
 BEST IN 
 QUALITY 
 PRICES 
 ASSORTMENT 
 & 
 
 SERVICE 
 
 LOEB’S 
 
 PALMA AND MADERO STREETS 
 
 MEXICO, D. F. 
 
On your way to Mexico 
 
 visit 
 
 The City of a Thousand Wonders 
 
 You should not miss seeing the colorful Cuban 
 capital — it is one of the most interesting spots in 
 the Americas. Arrange for stop-over on your way 
 to Mexico via Ward Line. 
 
 Walk along the ramparts and inspect the dungeons 
 of ancient Morro Castle — linger amid the relics 
 of historic cathedrals — partake of tasty native 
 dishes in quaint restaurants open to the street. 
 Everywhere new scenes and faces; manners and 
 customs that are “ different.” And then, at night, 
 the theatres, the music, the brilliantly lighted Prado 
 and Malecon and other scenes which have earned 
 for Havana the sobriquet — “ The Paris of the 
 Western Hemisphere.” 
 
 For information and illustrated literature, address 
 
 N. Y. & Cuba Mail Steamship Company 
 
 Foot of Wall St., New York 
 
 WARD LINE 
 

 Finest Steamship Service to 
 
 MEXICO 
 
 Whether you visit Mexico for pleasure or business, 
 be sure to travel in the most comfortable as well 
 as the most economical way on one of the large, 
 swift steamers of the Ward Line. A fast route 
 with frequent regular sailings from New York 
 via Havana* for 
 
 VRRA CRUZ — One of Mexico’s principal seaports and a 
 city full of historic interest. Rail connections over the 
 most beautiful and impressive mountain route in the 
 world to 
 
 MP2XICO CITY — Capital of the Republic. An interesting 
 example of the remarkable progress made by Mexico 
 
 in recent years. 
 
 TAMPICO — Famous for the oil fields in its immediate 
 
 vicinity. 
 
 PUERTO MEXICO — Connections with the Pacific Ocean 
 and Western, Central American and South American 
 ports. '*■ » 
 
 PROGRESO, Yucatan — Gateway to the land of interesting 
 ruins and buried cities. 
 
 'Sailings via Nassau, Bahamas, in season. 
 
 WARD 
 
From the moment you ascend the gangplank of a 
 Ward Line steamer you are impressed with the 
 care that is exercised to provide for your comfort. 
 The cuisine rivals that of the finest hotels. State- 
 rooms are commodious and well ventilated, with 
 lounges, reclining chairs and all conveniences. 
 
 No traveler who has ever taken a voyage on one 
 of the Ward Line ships would consider any other 
 route to Mexico or the West Indies. 
 
 For Sailings , full information and 
 Illustrated Literature, address 
 
 N. Y. & Cuba Mail Steamship Company 
 Foot of Wall St., New York 
 
 I I N F 
 
 GETTY CENTER LIBRARY HHHI 
 
 3 3125 00032 9884