innnrHHnnMnhnHnrtnniuuwrmnwviHHHHHhrtrtniui^^ ERRATA, ■Pct^e 25, 5th line from the top, for 80 skeins deep blue, read 64. Cth line for 32 skeins copperas color, read 32 skeins/»a?e blue, also reckon 16 skeins of white. SO, bottom line, for No. 12, read No. 10. .36, 5th line from bottom, for no read 07i. 44., Cth line from top, for roke read broke. 46, 26th line from top, for thumb read thnimb. 52, 7th line from top, for put read leave oJii. 54, for stars, read crosses. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2016 https://archive.org/details/domesticmanufactOObron f DOMESTIC MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT, AND msaaiLi' a)aiaiio®©iR^9 IN THE ARTS OF WEAVING AND DYEING: COMPHEHENDINQ A PLAIN SYSTEM OF DIRECTIONS, APPITINO TO those arts AND OTHER BRANCHES NEARLT CONICECTED WITH THEM IN THE JIANUFACTURE OF COTTON AND WOOLLEN GOODS j INCLUDING MANY USEFUL TABLES AND DRAFTS, IN CALCULATING AND FORMING VARIOUS KINDS AND PATTERNS OP GOODS. DESIGNED FOR THE IMPROVEMENT OF DOMESTIC MANUFACTURES. BY J. ^ R. BROJ^'SOJr. UTICA ; PRINTED BY WILLIAM WILUAMS, HO. 60 , GENESEE STREET. ^orthefn District of J^i'eto-York, ss. BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the first day of August, in the forty-second year of the Independence of the United States of America, A. D. 1817, J. 8c R^ BnoNSON, of the said District, have” deposited in this office, the title of a Book, the right whereof, they claim as proprietors, in the words following, to wit : “The Domestic Manufacturer’s Assistant, and Family Directoiy, in the Arts of Weaving and Dyeing: comprehending a plain system of directions applying to those arts, and other branches nearly connected with them in tlie manufacture of cotton and woollen goods ; including many useful Tables and Drafts in cal- culating and forming various kinds and patterns of goods, designed for the im- provement of domestic manufactures. By J. 8c R. Bronson.” In conformity to the act of Congress of the United States, entitled, “ An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors oT such copies during the times therein men- tioned.” And also to the act, entitled, “ An act supplementary to an act, entitled fAnactfor the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts and hooks, to the authors and proprietors of such copies during the times therein mentioned, and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching historical and other prints.” RICHARD R. LANSING, Clerk of the JYorthern District of JVe-w-Yorkn. PREFACE. The arts of Weaving and Dyeing attracted our attention as early as the year 1800, and from that period until the pres- ent, our time has been chiefly occupied in those branches and others nearly connected therewith, and mostly in manufacturing establishments. From these advantages and the assistance our manufacturing friends have obligingly afforded us, we feel satisfied that we pos- sess competent means of information to publish a book of this kind, which w'e believe will prove valuable to Manufacturers of Cotton and Woollen goods, and particularly to those who wish to manufacture in their own families. Its usefulness we trust will readily be acknowledged, being designed for the improvement of two important branches of man- ufacture, the practice of which we have attempted to expLsin in familiar terms, by a regular system in the various branches ap- pertaining to dyeing and manufacturing of Cotton and Wool. The books which have been heretofore published on these branch- es, have generally been calculated only for practical Dyers and I manufacturers, and although their instructions have generally I been correct, yet they have often failed to afford immediate bene- I fit to the inexperienced, by not descending to point out many I minute particulars, which, to them, must be allowed highly neces- j sary and essential. To obviate this difficulty, it has been our intention in this work, to express ourselves with plainness, and at the same time to note the most important points requisite to obtain good colors, and manufacture cloth to the best advan- tage. On the subject of Cotton weaving we have given exact Tables and examples, which will be found very valuable in calculating and forming the various kinds of Plaids, Stripes, Checks, Shir- ting, Sheeting Ticking &c. In this plan, plain directions are given to ascertain the exact length that any number of Skeins, runs or knots of yarn will warp, of the various widths and Slaies of Cotton goods now generally manufactured in our country. PREFACE. I . ^The tables and examples only, which we have given, will be fonnd worth the price of the book to a great number of manufac- turers, also to many that are or may be interested in manufac- turing establishments, should they pay that attention to it which the subject demands. We have endeavoured to explain and instruct on the subject of Woollen weaving, in the most approved method now practi- ced, and as this branch of household manufacture is more impor- tant and extensive than any other, we believe the improvements lately made in large Woollen factories which w'e have inserted, will be found very interesting. On the art of Dyeing, it will be found w'e have given a greater variety of receipts, than will be found in any book extant for the same price ; and w hen it is considered that it is seldom that a book has been published on Weaving and Dyeing both in one vol- ume, we think many will avail themselves of an opportunity to procure such a work. It is well know n that many fainilloe wish to have Cotton and Woollen yarn, Flannels, Garments &c. dyed in that season of th^ year when clotbiei-s cannot conveniently attend to it : this b<^ to such will be a valuable acquisition, as also to many who are situated at a considerable distance from clothiers, who do not practice dyeing fancy colors such as Scarlet, Crimson and Madder-red on Wollen ; also Red, Yellow, Green and Grange on Cottori- These colors may be dyed in families to advantage where the quantity is not large, which will be useful and orna- mental in the manufacture of Carpeting, coverlets, Shawls, Net- work, Fringe, Plaids, Stripes &c. We would not wish to be understood that families can dye all their cloth to advantage themselves, especially if the quantity is large, for in such cases it would require larger kettles than what are generally used for domestic purposes. In dyeing of Scarlet and other fancy colors on Woollen, and the various colors on cot- ton, we have given such particular and plain directions, that there will be no difficulty for any family to obtain them, should they follow the rules with exactness, which will be found indis- pensably necessary. Of the merits of this work the public will judge : having no desire to raise our reputation at the expense of those who have preceded us, and conscious that we have employed the means of information with patient industry and strict integrity in the execution of it, we are willing to abide the decision of those who examine for themselves and judge with candor J^ew-Hartfortl, Oneida Ca. ? JV. F. July, 18ir. S \ INDEX OBSERVATIONS on Looms and Utensils used in Weaving, - - - . - Tables of various numbers of Cotton Yarn and Sla’vs, with the number of knots required to ua.pa yard in length. . , . . Method of calculating and forming the pvitfern or figure of any kind of Check, Plaid or Stripe; which plan also ascertains the length of the piece and number of spools required, according to the figure, Examples of figures of various kinds, in Cloth, viz : Shirt- ing, Sheeting, Stripes, Ticking, Plaids, &c. W eaving, which includes Sizing, Drying, ^ Vinding, Warp- ing, Beaming, &c. - Observations on Wool, - . . . Assorting Wool, . . . . . Cleansing of Wool, - - - . . On Carding of Wool, . . _ . On Spinning 'tVool, ..... Warping of Woollen, - - Sizing of Woollen, ..... Beaming the Web, - , . Weaving Woollen, - - - On Preparing the Filling for Winding, Raith, or Raddle, - ’ - Weaving Drafts, - Bird Eyes, - . . ' . Three Shaft Ticking, .... Four Shaft do - - - . Elastic Cord, - . - - . Herring Bone, - Six Shaft Twill, - . - . _ Bird Ey es and Twilled, - . . . Figured Chambray, . . . . " Diamonds ami Squares for Diaper, ... Diamond Diaper, - . . . , Bags, (wove whole.) - . - , . Diamond of Nine Blocks — Diaper, - Rose and Diamond Diaper, - - - _ F.ight Block Diamonds for Diaper, - - . Cross and Diamond Diaper, - - - . Checked Dimity, - . , . . * Fnge ■J 13 16 18 S3 40 ib. 42 4S“ 45 ib. 45 47 48 49 ib. 53 54 55 ib. 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 6S 65 66 67 68 6 INDEX. Eight Shaft Coverlet, Compass Diaper, Half-Diamond Diaper, - Diamond Coverlet, do do Diamond Diaper, Block Stripe Diaper, Bird’s Eye Carpet, Rose and Compass Diaper, Plain Block Carpet, Damask Diaper, Curtain Diaper, Block Carpet, Bird’s Eye Carpet, Cross and Circle Coverlet, Eight Shaft Coverlet, Broad Cloth, Casimere, Satinet, Pagfi, 69 71 72 73 75 76 78 79 80 82 85 88 91 94 97 99 101 102 - 103 Remarks and directions on Preparing and Dyeing Cotton Yarn, . - _ . . Observations on Preparing and Dyeing Cotton Yarn in small quantities, calculated for families, - On Boiling Dye-Woods, On Vats used in Dyeing Blue on Cotton and Linen, Observations on Grinding Indigo, - - _ Direction 1. To Dye Blue on Cotton and Linen in the cold dye, - - - - - II. To Dye Blue on Cotton and Linen on a small scale, . - - _ III, Copperas Color on Cotton, “ IV. Yellow on Cotton, - _ . “ V. do do - VI. Black on Cotton, ... “ VII. Another Black on Cotton, - - - “ VIII. Green on Cotton, - - _ '• IX. Red on Cotton, - - - Method of Making Compound of Aqua-Fortis, “ X. Orange on Cotton, - - , “ XL Madder Red on Cotton, XII. Madder Red on Cotton as Practiced in 105 108 109 no 111 115 118 120 122 124 125 127 129 130 132 133 134 France, - - - _ 136 “ XIII. Purple on Cotton, - _ _ IJS " XIV. Drab Color on Cotton, - - 140 “ XV. Reddish Brown on Cotton, - - I4l « XVI. Logwood Blue on Cotton, - - 142 INDEX. 7 Pages. “ XVII. Olive Color on Cotton, - - 143 “ XVIII. Olive on Cotton with a Blue Ground - 144 XIX. Cinnamon Color on Cotton, - 145 “ XX. Brown on Cotton, - - - 147 “ XXI. Slate Color on Cotton, - - 148 “ XXII. do do do - - - ib. ‘‘ XXIII. Brown on Cotton, - - 149 Scouring Woollen Cloth from the Loom, - - 150 Another Method, ----- 151 Fulling, ------- 152 Of Scouring Djed Cloth, - - - - ib. Of Blue on Woollen, ----- 153 Drection XXIV. Method of Setting and Working the Indigo vat, . - - “ XXV. For an excellent Black on Wooollen, - “ XXVI. To dye a Common Black on Woollen, “ XXVII. Another Common Black on Woollen, “ XXVIII. Green on Woollen, “ XXIX. Best Bottle Green on Woollen, “ XXX. Nicaragua Red on Woollen, “ XXXI. Madder red on Woollen, « XXXII. Yellow on Woollen, “ XXXIII. Euft‘ Color on W oollen, “ XXXIV. Scarlet Red on Woollen, - do do do - To dye a Crimson on Wodlen, - Orange on Woollen, ^ - Cinnamon Color on Woollen, - . Dark Cinnamon, London Brown, .and British Mud, . - - Olive Brown on Woollen, do do do - - XLII. Olive on Woollen, XLIIl. Navy Blue on Woollen, do do do Purple on Woollen, Snuft’ Color on Woollen, Snuff Brown and T,ondon Smoke, “ XI.VIII. I.ight Drab on Woollen, - “ XLIX. Drab color on Woollen, ... L. Silver Grey on do. ... LI. indigo Blue on Wool or Linen, (as practiced in many lamilies,) - - . iS4 Description of Dye-woods and Drugs, - - - - 185 Useful Receipts, - - - - - - -194 XXXV. XXXVI. XXXVII. xxxvm. XXXIX. XL. XLI. XLIV. XLV. XLVI. xr.vii ib. 159 160 161 163 166 ib. 167 168 169 ib. 172 174 175 ib. 176 177 178 ib. 179 180 ib. 181 ib. 183 ib. 183 > = ■ I ' I. f ' r \ V 'A' F i '»-i • ■, . ■ , >^- I ■ “i;- , ;■> 1 r 'M. "■h MANUFACTURER’S ASSIS’CANT. Ohsei'vations on Looms and utensils used in weaving. During several years past, there has been inany kinds of looms invented and offered to the pub- lic, as improvements on the old constructed Fly Shut- tle and hand loom. Some of these are operated in all pai-ts (except shifting the temples, and bobbin or quill) by only moving the laith with the hands to and fro ; some are operated by die same method in all parts, ex- cept the treading, u hich is done by the feet : others again the shuttle only is operated by the motion of the Laith. These different kinds of Looms, are no doubt used to advantage for plain weaving, where they are used b)?^ patient and experienced weavers, who are willing and can to advantage, place their whole attention to keep their loom, and work in order ; but if not so, it is very reasonable to suppose that the common Fly shuttle or hand loom, is to be preferred before the other kinds yet invented. It is certain that the Fly shuttle loom just spoken of, or the hand loom, will make better Cloth than the others described, especially v hen they are used by new beginners. In making these remarks, we would not by any means wish to condemn those looms of a new and' com- jilicated construction, but only observe, tliat we think they are not so n^ell calculated in general for common use : as it is found that unless a person is extremely careful in working such looms, tliey will damage tlie do til. In fact when we examine the looms in Cotton and Woollen Factories, both for ti’ ill and plain work,- and find the old fashioned Fly shuttle loom still encouraged, c 10 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. t we are led at once to believe that tlie old plan is bet- ter than any other yet adopted. Some persons have supposed that by the use of the new constructed Loom, the labor in weaving is made more easy and light, by operating all the parts by the movement of the Laith : but this is a mistaken idea ; for surely if all these movements are to be set at w ork by the strength of the hands and anus only, it must in the end prove more tiresome than to have the labour more equally distributed by the work of the hands and leet. The common Fly shuttle Loom differs but little from the common hand loom, and that is in the laith, and shooting the shuttle. The Laith of the former one is moved with the left hand, ^vhile the other ha:>d, by the help of a cord, jerks or drives tlie shuttle through the piece. This manner of weaving is more easy, and at- tended with less hard labor than that of the hand loom, in particular from this plan allo^vi^g you to set upright in the loom ; w'hereas in weaving in the hand loom, you have to reach forward to throw the shuttle. After speaking of the different kinds of looms we would remai'k that the. Common Fly shuttle is to be preferred in some cases to the hand loom, that is, when the learner has instruction from a person well acquain- ted with that kind of weaving, or from an ingenious and good weaver in the common loom. Cording of Looms. It is important tliat all the cords belonging to a Loom should be made very well, and of so large a size as to be strong. Many persons v. ho weave occasional- ly in families, are not particular to make their cords well ; in that case tliey fail very soon, besides often damaging the clotli by their giving way. Whereas if they would take a little more time m making theiiv MANUFACTUHER’S ASSISTANT. 11 Aey would wear a considerable length of time and save the weaver a great deal of unnecessary trouble. ' Harness. The twine for the harness of a loom should be made of good and well chosen Cotton or Linen yam, and very evenly doubled and twisted. The wings or har- ness should without fail be dressed or starched well, with good brushes before weaving each piece, and in the manner as you will find among the instructions in Beaming and setting a piece to work. By paying at- tention to the harness in that respect, much time and expense will be saved in making new ones often. Those who have not practiced starching the harness, by making a beginning, will find by this practice, their trouble well compensated Raith or Raddle. The Raddle is thought by some to be an imple- ment of no great consequence, as it respects its being made in a nice and workmanlike manner ; but it is far otherwise. The weavers Raith or Raddle, should be made smooth, and the teeth set nice and tight, in order that the piece while beaming, may be spread even and in a proper rnanner : the expense of a good one is but trifling, and is an article that will last with good usage, a great length of time. Temples. This implement in weaving is too often made in a shghty manner, especially the points or teeth. The ' i2 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. points or teeth should be made of hardened wire, of a suitable size, set even and near tosrether, and filed A ery smooth. Shuttle. Shuttles should be made of fine grained hard wood, and of such a kind as will not incline to get rough in using. Spools. The spools for winding warp should be all of a size, so that in warping a piece they will turn alike and easy. It is also necessary that the sticks which the spools run on, should be straight and smooth which, if so will often admit the yam to be warped without breaking a thread. After making these observations on the different utensils used in weaving, it will not be improper to re- mark, that the quality and beauty of a piece of cloth is often injured, by using even one of the above utensils where it is badly iqade or out of repair. A TABLE, Of various Numbers of CottonYarn and Slales ; witli the number of Knots required to warp a yard in length. For Cloth three quarters wide. JVoq/ Yarn. JVo of Slaie. Knots. No 8 goes in a 32 and requires 12 9 34 13 10 36 m 11 38 14 12 40 15 13 42 16 14 44 16i 13 44 16-1 16 46 17 17 48 18 18 50 19 19 50 19 2C 52. 19i 21 54 20 22 56 21 23 56 21 24 58 22 25 58 22 26 60 221 27 62 23 28 64 24 29 66 25 3C 68 25i 2 to warp a yard. The yarn in the above table, is calculated to fill a Slaie three quarters full ; for instance a Slaie of 40 beers wide is to be filled 30 beers. N. B. By so many knots to warp a yard, means that the Factory 7 knotted skeins are 10 knots, as they are so in reali- ty ; being more threads in each tie, than those from family reels: each factory skein being in all our calculations reckoned ten knots or half a run. To cast the number of knots to warp a yard of cloth three quarters wide, take out one quarter of the beer, and halve the remainder. For example, in a 40 slaie one quarter out leaves 30, half of which is 15, knots to warp a yard. 14 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. Table of numbers of Cotton Yam and Slaies, with the number of knots required to waiq) a yard in length. FOR CLOTH ONE YARD WIDE. JVoo/ Yarn. JYo oj Slaie. Knots No 8 goes in a 32 and requires 16 to warp a yard. 9 34 17 10 36 18 11 38 19 12 40 . 20 13 42 21 14 44 22 15 44 22 16 46 23 17 48 24 18 50 25 19 50 25 20 52 26 21 54 27 22 56 28 23 56 28 24 58 29 ' 25 58 29 26 60 30 27 62 31 28 64 32 29 66 33 30 68 34 The yam in the above table is calculated to fill a slaie full ; and observe, it requires half as many knots to warp a yard of cloth one yard wide, as there are beers in the slaie. For instance. No. 12 yam in a 40 slaie 1 yard wide, requires 20 knots or 2 skeins to warp 1 yard in length. For example, you wish to calculate for 60 yards of cloth, thus : 20) 120 (60 yards. 120 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 15 Table of Yam and Slaies; with the number of knots required to warp a yard in length. For Cotton Shirting three quarters wide when bleached. JV*o oj Yarn. Jv'o of Slaie. Knotir No 8 goes in a 32 and requires 13 9 34 14 10 36 15 11 38 16 12 40 17 13 42 18 14 44 19 15 44 19 16 46 20 17 48 20 18 50 21 19 50 21 20 52 22 21 54 23 22 56 24 23 56 24 24 58 25 25 58 25 26 60 26 27 62 26 28 64 27 29 66 28 30 68 29 to warp a yard The following rule will ans^^’^er to make out pieces or webs of I shirting of any length, from the above table. First set down the number of knots to warp a yard, thus, for ex- ample, in a 4-0 slaie — . J 7 kjiots to warp a yard, Proof f 17) 102 0 (00 yards, 60 yards you wisli, 102,0 knots or 102 skeins. 16 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. Method of calculating and forming the pattern or jig^ (ire of any kind of Cheeky Plaid or stripe ; winch plan also ascertains the length of the piece and number of spools required, according to the fgure. In the first place determine what figure you will have, which you can choose according to your ovm fancy, or by copying after any sample of Plaid or stripe Gingham, or check in Handkerchief’s. For example, you make choice of the following pattern, which is for- med of 3 colors in the warp. Say take No. 12 Yam for a 40 Slaie |wide : — 8 threads of Deep Bluet 6 threads of Pale Blue. 2 threads of White. ”16 making sixteen threads in the figure, observing that should more than one colour be used in the filling, it will form a Plaid ; but if only one colour in the filling, it forms a strij^e. The weaver must A\ arp wdth spools, in proportion to the number of threads in the figure. For instance, take either the same number of spools as tliere are threads in the figure, tvrice the number, three times the number, and so on, according to the length you wish to have the piece. For example in this piece, take twice the number, v itli3 skeins on a spool, which will make 32 spools, being 16 spools of D:^ep Blue 12 — of Pale Blue 4 of White. ■32" Thii'ty two spools ■path three skeins on a spool make 96 skeins: then by multiplying tli£ num.ber of skeins by 10, which v e cnll themimber of knots in a skein, gives the w hole number of knots in 96 skeins, wliich is 960 knots, and you v ill find by cutting off the right hand cy’Mier it w ill shew again the number of skeins. — Thus 96,0. You wail fiud by examining the Tables of Yam MANUFACTURER^S ASSISTANT. ir and Slaies, that it requires 15 knots to warp a yard of Cloth I wide, of Yam No. 12 in a 40 Slaie. By divi- ding 960 knots by 15 shews the length or number of yards there is in this piece, which you will find is 64. Statement 32 spools 3 skeins on a spool 96 skeins 10 knots in a skein 96,0 knots to w^arp a yd. 15) 96,0 (64 Yards. To find the exact number of skeins of the different icolors which will be required, 3 mu must first state the whole number of skeins you have in this piece, u hich is 96 : then di\ ide them by the number of threads in the figure, which is 16; thus, how manj^ times 16 are there in 96, answer 6 ; then multiply the threads of each color by 6, which shews the exac t number of skeins of each kind of color. this method you can calculate for any figure. For example thus : — Figure in the icarp. Deep Blue Pah Blue White Threads — 8 6 2 6 times is 48 Skeins of Deep Blue is 36 Pale P’- is 12 Knots to 15) 960 warp a 3 'd 0 ^ yards." ^'Viiite Threfds r J times is 56 Sk’ns D. IS 42 p j 98 Skeins of Warn m 98 r No. 12. j of IQ '' piece steni' ma^eTut’ ^I)oIe for '*■ b 18 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. Filling Calculation. In calculating the number of skeins of Filling which you will want to fill a piece, you must first state the number of threads that form the figure ; then multiply by any number that will produce as many or a few more skeins than there is of warp — this method you will find produces an exact proportion of each color. The multiplier will be governed by the number of threads that form the figure. For instance ; you choose a different figure in the filling than was stated for the piece you have made out, thus — B. Blue P. Blue Threads 4 4 12 times is 48 Skeins of Deep Blue is 48 Pale Blue After a piece or web is made out and ready for the weaver, if you wish to proceed regular you will have a direction attached to each piece, u hen made out. The following dire<. tion is calculated for the piece of Plaid you have made out. Lay tills for 64 yards of Cloth, in a 40 Slaie, make the, Check, In Ihe iParp, In the Filling, 8 tlireads of D,. Blue 8 threads of D. Blue 6 do Pale 6 do P. Blue 2 do Wliite 96 Skeins Warp, 7 No. 12, 32 Spools, wind 3 skeins 98 Filling. 5 spool. Examples of Figures of various kinds in Clot We shall now give directions to make a variety of figures or patterns, in Plaids, Stripes and Checks: also MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT'. 19 ^ive some examples in making out Sheeting, Shirting, Bed Ticking. * By a little study the learner will soon find out the plan, or principle on which any figure is formed. 1 hose that are here made out, may be applied to any Slaie, only to take the right number of yam and knots to warp a yard, as suited to it. After becoming acquain- ted with the rule of forming Plaids, Stripes, &c. it wall be perceived that an innumerable and almost endless variety of patterns or figures, can be obtained with the greatest ease, and must be considered an object quite interestino- and important to those concerned in Cotton Factories^ and also to those who manufacture cotton cloth in families. , i u -i N. B. Obsen’e when the different colored threads that form the figure are multiplied, you must reckon all that are of one color at a time, as you will find tna. in some figures, one color is placed in two or three separate positions ; in which case you mvist reckon them all at a time, the same as you will find in some of the following examples in Plaids and Ticking. Calculations inmaking out pieces or webs of cotton. For a piece of Shirting | wide, in a 38 Slaie. Yam No. 11 Statement 16 Knots to warp a yard 60 Yards are wanted knots to 16) 960 knots (60 yards warp a yd.) 96 96 Skeins of warp, 24 Spools wind 4 Skeins on a 96 do of Filling. Spool. By the rule just stated, it will be found that tl*ie num- ber of knots to warp a yard are first noted ; the knots are 20 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. bTof[nottoZr^°'i^Z ‘he" ‘“''r"'' by the"™! then shews the number of yarck of'Sh”‘ “', 1 ,*' In the above piece it remnvZ o^n i ^ piece, ting off the rS hs!!?“ "'>'“*> by cut- skeins, whfch fs 96 ^bews ff.e „umL of tfaftJttt.:*, Catcula. tedjor yarn JVo. 12 in a 40 Slaie. 20 knots to warp a yard yards are wished knots to warp 20) 1200 (60 yards a yard) 120 120 Skeins of Warp Q T * » Fillinff. 30 Spools, with 4 skeins on a spool. ^ r^r^piece of, tripe i wide, r,m jV„. ,2 Figure in the warp. Blue White threads 2 2 20 times is is 40 skeins of Blue 40 do White. 15) 800 (53 yards 75 ~50 45 SO Skeins of warn, SO do Filling-. Filling. 80 skeins of I color. 20 spools, wind four Skeins on a spool;' MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 21 N. B. In first multiplying the threads, you must observe that it is necessary to take an even number to multiply with. In varying it you will find it will pro- 13, a 42 Pilling. [96 skeins of 1 is 32 „ White. color.] Knots to warp a yard, 16) 96,0 (60 yards, 96 00 32 spools with 3 sk’s on a spool 96 skeins warp. or 24 spools, with 4 on a spool. 96 “ filling For apiece of Chambray, | wide, Yarn JVo. 12, in a 40 Slaie. Rule. 15 knots to warp a yard. 60 yards are wished. 00 Filling. 90 90 skeins of blue or any knots w’p y’d 15) 900 (60 yards. [other color, 90 90 skeins of white warp. 30 spools, wind 3 skeins on a spool. Chambray is made from any one color, as you wish, in the warp, and also in the filling ; only have them dif- fer from each other. d 2 duce more or less number of yards. For a piece of Stripe i imde, Yarn JVo. Figure in the Warp. Blue. White. Threads, 4 2 16 times, is 64 skeins of Blue. HWw a-rfuinnn n H M H I 22 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. For Chambray i wide, Yarn No, 16, in « 46 Slaie. Rule. 17 knots to warp a yard. 60 yards are wished. 102 Filling. 102 skeins of blue or any knots w’p y’d 17) 102,0 (60 yards [other color. 102 102 skeins of white warp. 34 spools, wind 3 skeins on a spool. For a piece of Plaid j wide. Yarn JSTo. 12, in a 40 slaie. Fi^re in the Warp. Figure in the Filling. 2>. Blue. White. Blue. Copperas. threads 12 2 12 2 6 times 6 times is 72 skeins D. Bl. is 72 skeins of Blue, is 12 „ White, is 13 „ of Copperas. 15)840(56 yar^s 84 75 ~90 90 84 skeins warp. 84 „ filling. 28 spools, wind 3 skeins on a spool-. MAVtJFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. For Plaid i wide, Yarn JV'o. IG, in a 46 Slai?, Figure in tlie Warp. D. Blue. While. Threads 10 1 8 times. is 80 skeins of Dark Blue, is 8 „ of White. 23 knots to warp a 17) 88,0(51| yards [yard, 85 To 17 22 spools, wind 4 skeins [on a spool. 88 skeins of warp. 90 „ filling. 13 Figure in the Filling. ). Blue. Copperas. 10 2 is 75 skeins of Deep Blue, is 15 of Copperas. T For Plaid | wide, Yarn JVo. 1 3 in a 42 Slaie. Figure in the Warp Figure in the Filling. P. Blue. Orange. D. Blue. P. Blue. D. Blue. Threads 6 13 8 4 8 times 7 times is is is 48 Skeins P. Blue 8 do Orange 24 do D. Blue Knots to 16) 80 (50 yards warp a yd. 80 80 Skeins of Warp. 54 do Filling. is 56 Sk. P. Blue, is 28 do D. Blue. 84 20 Spools, wind 4 Skeins on a Spool, 24 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. For Plaid i wide. Earn JSfh. 18 or 19, in a 50 Slaie. Figure in the warp. D. Blue. P. Blue. White, Threads 8 5 1 8 times. is 64 skeins of Deep Blue, is 40 skeins of Pale Blue, is 8 skeins of white. knots to warp a y’d. 19) 112,0 (59 yards. 95 ITO 152 "Ts Figure in the Filling. D. Blue. Copperas. 8 8 7 times. is 56 skeins of Deep Blue, is 56 skeins of Pale Blue. iTi 28 spools, wind 4 skeins on a spool. 112 skeins of warp. 112 skeins of filling. For Plaid i wide, Earn JVo. 21, in a 54 Slaie. Figure of the Filling. B. Blue. Copperas. 10 2 9 1 times. is 95 skeins Deep Blue, is 19 skeins Copperas i Color. TT4 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 25 Figure in the Warp. 1). Blue. F. Blue. White. F. Blue\ threads, 8 2 2 2 8 times. is 80 skeins Deep Blue, is 32 skeins Copperas Color. knots warp a yard 20) 112,0 (56 yards. 100 Tio’ 120 112 skeins of warp. 28 spools, wind 4 skeins on 114 skeins of filling. [a spool. For Fluid f wide, Yam J\To. 16, in a 46 slaie. Figure in tlie warp. D. Blue. Cop. D. Blue. Cop. threads 10 2 2 2 6 times. is 72 skeins of Deep Blue, is 24 skeins of Copperas. cnots to w’p 17) 96,0 (56| yards. 85 ilo 102 8 32 spools, wind 3 sk’s on a spoof Figure in the Filling. D. Blue. F. Blue. D. Blue. F. Blue. 10 2 2 2 6 times. is 72 skeins of Deep Blue, is 24 skeins of Pale Blue. % 6 skeins of warp. 6 skeins of filling. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. Foi’ Tlaid | wide. Yarn JSTo. 17, in a 48 Slaie. Figure in the Warp. Figure in the Filling, i). Blue. P. Blue. fVhlte. Orange. D. BlueP. Blue Threads 6 6 11 6 6 8 times 9| times is 48 Skeins D. Blue. is 57 Sk. D. B is 48 do P. Blue is 57 do P. B is 8 do White Tu is 8 do Orange knots to 18)1l2,0 (62 yards warp a yd. 108 40 36 -4 112 Skeins of Warp. 28 Spools, wind 4 Skeir 114 do of Filling on a Spool. For Plaid i wide. Yarn JVo. 16, in a 46 Slaie. Figure in the Warp. B. Blue. IVhite. I). Blue. IVhite. D. Blue. IVhite. Threads 8 ill 1 1 8 times is 80 Skeins Deep Blue is 24 do of White knots 17)~l04,0 (61 yards warp a yd. 102 20 17 3 104 Skeins of Warp 26 Spools, wind 102 do of Filling Skeins on a Spoc MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 27 Figure in the Filling. D. Blue. White. J). Blue. White. D. Blue. White. 12 1 1 1 1 1 6 times is 84 Skeins D. Blue is 18 do White For Fluid i wide. Farn «iV*o. 17, in a 48 Slaie Figure in the Warp. jD. Blue. White. Green. White. Threads 12 1 6 1 6 times is 72 Skeins of Deep Blu« is 12 do of White is 36 do of Green knots to 18) 120,0 (66 2-3 yards ,warp a yd. 108 "120 108 "ii Figure in the Filling. JD. Blue. Red. P. Blue. Red. 12 2 6 2 5 1 times is 66 Skeins Deep Blue is 22 do Red is 33 do Pale Blue 121" 120 Skeins of Warp 121 do Filling • 20 Spools, with 6 skeins ' on a spool, or 40 S^kwIs, with three on a spool. 28 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. For Plaid | wide, Yarn JV*o. 18, in a SO Slaie. Fie;urein the Warp. D. Blue. P. Blue. White. P. Blue. Threads 12 6 1 6 4 times is 48 Skeins of Deep Blue is 48 do of Pale Blue is 4 do of White knots to 19) 100,0 (52 2-3 yards warp a yd. 95 D. Blue. P. Blue. Cop. P. Blue. 12 6 2 6 4 is 48 Skeins of Deep Blue is 48 do of Pale Blue is 8 do of Copperas 50 38 12 Figure in the Filling. 104 100 Skeins Warp 104 Filling 25 spools, wind 4 skeins' on a spool. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. Q9 For Plaid i wide. A*o. 22 or 23 in a 56 Slaie. Figure in tJie warp Figure in the Filling. D. Blue Urange P. Blue Orange. D. Blue P. Blue threads 6 2 8 2 6 times is 36 skeins of Deep Blue is 48 do of Pale Blue is 24 do of Orange kts.21) 108,0 (51 yards towp.a 105 yard. -Jg 21 ~9 108 Skeins Warp 36 Spools, wind 3 skeins 108 do Filling on a spool. For apiece of .Apron Check i wi^f^rlTj^o7\2,^ a 40 Slaie Figure in the Warp. Blue. White. threads 4 4 ' 12 times, is 48 skeins of Blue is 48 White knots warp a yd. 15) 960 (64 yards 90 6 6 9 times is 54 skeins D.Blue is 54 do Pale Blue. l08 60 60 Figure in the Filling. Blue White 4 4 12 times is 48 skeins of Blue, is 48 of White. 96 skeins 32 spools, wind 3 .skeins on 96 filling a spool, or 24 with 4 each E 30 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. For apiece of Jlpron Check, I Yard JV*o. 16, in a 46 Slaie^ Figure in the Warp. Blue White threads 6 6 12 times is 72 skeins of Blue, is 72 of White. knots to a yard 23) 144,0 (62| yards. 138 ' : ^60 46 H Figure in the Filling. Blue. White. 6 6 12 times. is 72 skeins of Blue, is 72 White. 144 144 skeins of warp. 36 spools, wind 4 skeins 144 filling. [on a spool For Twilled Bed Ticking 7-8 wide, Yarn JV'b. 11 or 12 in the Warp..,calculaled for a 36 Slaie: to be drawn 4 threads in a split. Figure in the Warp. White. Blue. White. Blue. White. Blue. threjids 16 2 2 6 2 2 times. Filling. llOskeinsof white. 121 skeins white Filling 55 skeins of blue. [No. 10. k’s to 30) 165,0 (56 yards. a y’dj 150 30 spools wind 5| skeins on a spool ■ 150 165 skeins of warp. No. 11 150 121 filling. No. 12 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. SI The preceding piece is to be warped 56 yards, but will not be more than about 52 from the loom ; which makes 4 tick patterns of 13 yards each. It is calculated to be dra\\Ti 32 beers wide, and to be wove with 4 treadles, and 4 wings. Twilled Bed Ticking 7-8 wide, warp ^Vo. 9 or 10, in a S6 slaie : to be drawn 3 threads in a split. Figure same the other in the Warp. 84 skeins of white. 42 skeins of blue. knots to warp 22,5)126,0 (56 yds. or 52 yds. out of the a yard 1 12 5 [loom. 1350 Filiinff. 1350 95 sk’s white filling No. 8. 126 skeins of warp No. 10. 95 filling No. 8. 30 spools, win^ 4 skeins and,2 factory^ ties on a spool For a piece of Bed Ticking, wove the same as plain cloth but of a handsome figure, 7-8 wide. Tarn JV*o. 10. in the warp, cal- culated for a S6 slaie, 2 threads in a split. Figure in the Warp. White. Blue. White. Blue. White. Blue. threads 16 2 2 6 2 2 2 times is 40 skeins white Filling. is 20 skeins blue. 56 skeins white filling No 8 k’stoal6)^,0 (37| yards. 30 spools, wind 2 skeins on a spool 60 skeins warp No. 10. 56 skeins filling No. 8. N. B. The above is calculated for 3 patterns. yard 48 Tio 112 ~8 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS, (hi preparing Cotton Yarn for Weaving : which includes Sizing, Dnjing, Winding, Warping, Beaming, Before we attempt to explain and direct as to the manner of preparing cotton yam for weaving, through the various operations, we must offer an apology to me experienced weaver who may happen to look over our pages, for the simplicity of the language we make use of : but w^hen it is considered, that our general inten- tion has been to introduce a practical work, adapted to the inexperienced, as well as those that have only a par- tial knowledge of the arts we treat of, we indulge a hope t hat no material disadvantage will arise from the course we have pursued, as most of our readers who are experienced in the different subjects, will easily un- derstand them. Sizing Cotton Yarn. For SO pounds. The first object in preparing cotton yam for weaving is that of Sizing, which should be done in die following manner. Put in a large wooden boivl, or other vessel, about two pounds of wheat flour ; then add cold water and stir it continually, using as much water as will reduce it to a fine paste : then afterw'ards use more cold water gradually until it is thin enough to strain through a com- mon sieve. Now place a kettle over a fire with a sufficient' quan- tity of water to wet the yam ; bring it to a scalding heat, then pour the cold size through a siei^e into die kettle, and let it boil two or three minutes stirring it well. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 33 Another kettle or tub should be ready, to use for working the yam in the size. There are different meth- ods used to handle the yam in the size, but we have generally practiced the following, which is done by ma- king the yam into a chain. First take about 3 skeins of yam, and place them togetlier at whole length : then take 3 more and pass through the first, and double the last : tlien 3 more is to be put through the two loops of the last, and so on until you have prepared half of the yam. Should you have 20 pounds in the whole, you will next make another chain the same as the other. After both chains are made, then tie the last tw'o loops of each chain with a string. In the next place put half of the yam into an empty kettle or tub, by curling it round on the bottom of it and so on towards the top ; then stir your sizing and pour half of it on die yarn, when it is nearly scalding hot, then pound it moderately ivith a smooth stick a few minutes, then turn it over and work it together as before. Add the remainder of the yam to the rest, put in as before, and pour on the remainder of thesi- "zing, and work it together the same as the first parcel. When tlie size has cooled a little so that you can en- dure to wring it with the hands, then wring out three skeins at a time, or one link, until it is all wrung. — Should vou wish to be certain how hard it ousht to be wrung, you can determine that point by drymg at first three skeins ; this is on tlie supposition that you arc not skilled in sizing yam. The reader perhaps will believe w'e are giving small and unimportant information ; but we earnestly solicit his patience until the piece is ready for weaving, and if he has practiced directions less particular heretofore, perhaps the methods here pointed out, w’hen practiced, may convince him that particular rules are necessaiy. E 2 34. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. Drying Sized Yarn, After the yam is properly wrung, it should be hung on smooth poles, in tlie following manner : — Open the bunches, shake 2 or 3 of them on the hands lightly and hang them the whole length on the poles, far enough apart when spread to fill them ; and when these bunches are parted into skeins, they should be so far from each other that 5 pounds will require 2 poles of 8 feet in length. The yam being now divi- ded, begin by opening the ties of the skein flat, and then snap and strain it a little on the pole, keeping the skein thin and flat : so proceed with all tlie skeins. Dry them in the warm weather out of doors in open air, but in winter in a warm room, as freezing will in- jure tlie sizing materially. By following the above di- rections, you will be able to wind the finest yam with case. Winding the Yarn. This is a simple operation, but it is easy to perplej^ the warper by conducting it in a careless manner. This branch is generally performed as it properly should be by small children, that expense may be saved, and they frequently run the yam on in bunches, in a promiscu- ous manner ; this, as we have just observed, has a bad effect in warping. In fact, if it is wound on the spools carlessly it has a bad effect even in weaving the piece. Children should be taught to begin at one end of the spool and wind evenly to the otlier, and so backwards and forwards until finished. Tehere is even an advan- tage to the winder in paying attntion to this, as when the thread breaks, he knows at once n here to- look for k. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 35 Warping, To perform this branch well, it is necessaiy that tlie spools should all be of a size, and that the sticks which they turn upon be straight and smooth. It is in vain for us to attemnt to manufacture cloths witli neatness, if we neglect to provide utensils that are made in a pro- per manner, as we often find that by using even one implement that is not bi order, it will materially injure the whole ^vork. For an example in warpmg, you will take 24 spools witli 4 skeins on a spool ; calculated for 60 yards of shirting No 11, which you will find stated in the calcu- lations to make out pieces — place them on the scallet frame in two tiers, having the first spool on the lower division of sticks, 2 or 3 inches farther to the right than the first spool of the upper row, and so on with the rest. You naust observe to have the yam ends on the right handl^ide of' tlie spools, as you stand facing the frame. Next collect all the ends and tie a knot in them j tlien draw the threads straight, and put your right hand .through the division of threads close up to the knot, tlien put your left hand thumb m the openmg, placing the ball of the thumb close to the knot. Next form the lease with your right hand, begm- nmg to collect the threads about the same distance as the pins on the bars are from your left hand. First take the lower thread on the bottom division, bemg under side of your right hand and over the thumb ; next of the upper division, upper side of your hand and imder your thurhb, and so on until you have taken up all the threads. The new begmner ought to count the threads as he takes them, otherwise there will be room to err. The lease will then be laid on the pins on the top of the bars or mill, just as you have it bi your right hand, by partmg the lease between the right and left hand, up to the knot on the end of the piece. Should you use S6 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. a warping mill, you will now turn it roimd with the sun until you warp 60 yards, which is the length ; 96 skeins will make | of a yard wide, when wove and bleached. | Should you use the common w’arping bars, you will j warp backwards and forwards, running the yarn from one pin to the other downwards, until you get 60 yards. In either manner of warping, when you get the length that is desired; cross the bouts on the bottom pins, then proceed back again, when you will again take the lease as before, and lay it on the twn lease pins and carry the branches on to the farther pin and cross them ; stUl saving the lease in the hand to put on the pins again. You will then proceed again as before, back- w^ards and forwards, until you get 25 bouts or 50 half bouts, being 1200 threads. In the next place secure the lease by tying a string through each part of it two or three times, and tie the end of the piece at the bottom of the bars in a similar manner — then take the piece off from the bars, taking tlie lease off first ; beginning as follow's : — Put your arm through the loop that was formed betw^een the pins, then draw wdth the arm the piece a little way through that loop, w'hich forms another ; through which wnth the otlier, hand you form another and so on until you finish it, ready for beaming. Ha? mess. It is necessary that the harness should be starched or dressed before weaving each piece, which is done in the following manner. Fix a strong cord with a weight to it no the bottom cords, that lead from the har- ness downw^ards, so that one harness will be single as it hangs in tlie loom. Take 2 eggs and as much in quantity of w^heat-fiour starch, newly made but cold, andbeattlieiji well togeth- MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 37 er. Should tlie harness be made of cotton, which is the best for rveaving of cotton, you will do well in that case to add to your starch a tea spoonful of melted glue, then beat it well together and brush the harness with it evenly for some time ; taking care not to get it very wet. Now change tlie clasps if you use that kind of hamess,and brush it over arain, then putarod in each partingnext to the eye and let them remain until dry with the weight on.— When it is dry, change the weight to another one, and so on : after which hang them out of the way. Beaming. First take the warped piece and lay it on the floor under the yam beam ; then take the thrum end and car- y it under the cloth beam, over the breast beam,, and i^ough the lathe : put through the thrum rod and se- :ure it, then place the bouts in the raddle about 32 or 33 inches wide, for shirting, being about 5 inches Mder than it will be when:<>voye. You will now place the, .thrum rod and yam at an iqual distance from each end of the beam or posts, and proceed to wind the yam hard on the beam, keeping t perfectly smooth and free from ridges. As a reme- ly against ridges, move the raith or raddle moderately )ackwards and forwards at different periods in the course of beaming. The person who holds the yarn vhile beaming, should not let it slip through his hands )ut should go hand over hand once m a foot, and strike t occasionally, minding not to let it twist between his lands, and so proceed until it is all wound on. The top of the beamed piece should be about the ame width that it will be in the reed. Drawing ihroiigh the lumiess. Most persons who have been accustomed to use 38 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. both the 2 and 4 shaft harness for plain cloth, prefer the latter ; and we think it is much the best, as it di- vides the piece into 4 parts, and causes it to spring with more ease, and is less liable to break threads. For a person who has never seen this kind of harness In ope- ration for plain work, it would be more difficult to keep it in order than the 2 shaft harness, but by weaving one or two pieces, the difficulty would be removed. The four shafts being placed of an equal height, you will then hang the raith or raddle level, and so high as to have the lease 2 or 3 inches above the eyes or clasps m the harness. In the next place put the rods through the lease, and fasten the rods at the end with a string ; then cut the string that secures the lease, and also the thrums : then knot up, and it is ready for drawing through the harness. First begin to draw tlie threads through at the right hand, thus — ZITJZZIZZ and so on through the whole piece. The raddle is now to be taken apart, and the threads drawn through the slaie, first measuring the slaie by the harness. Begin to draw at the same distance from the j end of the slaie, as you suppose it will come out at tlie j other end. The piece is now to be tied on the rod as even as possible, and the treadle cords attached to tlie harness. On making a harness^ After the sticks are ready and marked into beers, as a guide to knit on the twins for a harness, you will make the holes for the cords to go through those shafts that are calculated for the top ones, at an equal distance from the ends, say 5 inches from each end for the top shafts, and 6 or 7 inches from the end, for the bottom shafts. These shafts should be made of an exact length before they are niarked. The 4 top ones should be all mar- MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 39 ked across them at once, also the 4 bottom ones. The holes must be made exactly opposite each other, other- wise the harness will not spring true. The cords con- nected with tlie two front wings or harness, will now be attached to the front short lamb, (some weavers use short lambs only) and the back wings with tlie other. The cords attached to these lambs, goes one between the long lambs, and the other outside of them. Weaving. It is believed that weavers who are in the practice of making the cloth rough and uneven, do not consider that there is a great difference in the value of two pieces of cloth, of an equal weight and fineness, but differ- ing materially in smoothness and eA'enness : but we have frequently known this difference to be more than half the price of weaving a yard of cloth. We shall now point out to the new^ beginner, a few rules which if strictly attended to,_he may be sure of making smooth and even cloth. After the cords be- longing to the lambs and those connected with the top of die harness are made - even, and of an equal tight- ness, you will be ready for w^eaving. When the treadle is trod down as far as you intend, the instant it is down you must bring the lathe up to the cloth ; that is you must have die lathe strike exactly at the time of bringing down the treadle : this you will find w ill have a good effect to produce a handsome sel- vage, and smooth, even clodi. Should the above mle not be attended to, especially if die harness is hung low, or the yam beam too high, it wnuld often cause the up- per side of the wnrp, w hen die foot is down, to be slack ; this would give the thread of filling which you close, a chance of crowding rather on the top of the last one. This is one of the principal causes of cloth being in fows or as many weavers terra it, rowey. 40 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. There is also another particular reason why cloth is wove uneven, w'hich is by not paying a right attention to striking the lathe after stopping, from changing the bobbin or quill, or other reasons. After changing the bobbin or quill, it is necessary that you strike the lathe once in the last shade, and once in the shade you in- tend to throw the shuttle tlirough, before you shoot the shuttle again. When the temples are shifted, tliey must not be pla- ced nearer than one inch from the yam, and should be shifted once in about three inches. When the piece is let down, care should be taken that the lathe should be brought to with that suitable force that w ill produce the same thickness of clotli, as w hen it is near the harness. Obsei'vatims m wool. Farmers in taking the wool from the sheep, should be careful to keep tlie v ool together as much as possi- ble, and to avoid cutting the Iwrl or fibres of the wool t\vice, as the short wool ^■.iil be wasted. In putting up the fleece, it w ill be proper to crowd it in as small a compass as possible ; tlien throw in the edges and roll it up as small as possible without taer- ing. In this w ay the fleece is kept together, so tliat in assorting, it will be found easy to the assorter. Jlssoitbig wool. To perform this work with exactness, it w ill be prop- er to attend to the follow ing directions. In the first place prepare two or more l3oards plained smooth ; place diem in die fciTn of a bench or table, sufficiently ivide to contain the fleece w hen spread out. When it is fixed MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 41 in this manner, undo your fleece carefully, first with the outside down, then tui'n your fleece over and make 3 '^our choice. It is well to make 4 sorts, but 3 will answer in many cases. Begin bylaking the coarsest first, which you will find at the extremity of the hind quarters of the fleece, being the fourth quality. In the next place, take off the neck, rump, and belly part for your third quality. Next take off the shoulders, and a narrow strip down through the back, and so on to the hips and flank part for your second quality, leaving the sides for the finest part or first quality. In assorting the wool, be careful to keep tlie different qualities of the wool separate from each other, for should you mix one lock of the coarse wool with the fine, it will be much to the disadvantage of the cloth, particularly as to its bejfdty : or should j'ou mix fine wool with the coarse,:;tIie’ greatest part of the fine u'ould work out. in going through the different operations in manufacturing it into yana ahd cloth. In preparing 3^oiw^\( oql lb.r different pieces of cloth j'ou must be particular' in- following these directions. If you have fine wool soifieient to make a piece of cloth the lengrth you wi^h, you will then make use of it for tvarp and filling ; but if j'ou have not, then STiake use of your first quality fiir the fillmg, and the SJ^econd quality of wool for the warp. By proceeding in this way it will be difficult for tb<“ best judges to discover the difference in t^° and you will easily discover tlie prr"'- ’ remarks, by paying attp*'*' quality* low. -.uontn-,r‘*'’''>f*"»bove - => l=w words that fo|. Inspmnmg^Sd, in weaving, napping 49 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. First, your fine wool should be of the best quality fOT filling — second, spin your filling as slack as it will bear and follow the shuttle— third, for 20 pounds of warp, use 28 pounds of filling. In following this last rule, you will find that no grea- ter proportion of weight of filling will finally be Icti in the body of the cloth than warp, as die finishing and dressing is from the filling. Cleansing of Wool. For the purpose of cleansmg wool, you must pre- pare an iron kettle of 40 or 50 gallons, near a stream of water, where you can rinse the wool as soon as it comes out of the kettle. For factories it will be proper to fix a wooden box 3 or 4 feet square, set in a sitiihtfen so that a stream of water can run through it, for iiie use of rinsing the wool when taken from the kettl^.^ For families a comnion ketfle Avill tuiswer, and a basket for rinsing. . In the first place fill the kettle two thirds full of wa- ter and one third of urine, tliat which is old if you can get it. You will then heat this liquor as warm as you can bear your hand in it for one or 2 seconds ivithout scalding. Then put 5*or 6 pounds of ivool loosely in- to it and keep it turning round for 6 or 8 minutes, or perhaps longer. You may ascertain when it has been ia long enough by often squeezing it with your hand, if the grease starts, and the wool appears loose and deal', it has been in a sufficient time. The wool is then to be taken out upon a boai'd, which must be placed on the edge of the kettle for the purpose of draining it, and saving die liquor. As soon as it is sufficiently drained, rinse die wool until it runs off quite clear. The wanner the wool is, when put in to rinse it the better. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT, 43 You will then add a second time, 6 or 8 pounds of wool, and proceed as before mentioned ; then add some fresh water to the kettle, and continue scouring and rinsing through the da)\ Next morning skim off Ae greasy substance that ri- ses on the top of the liquor, and heat and replenish it by adding 4 or 5 gallons of urine, then fill it up with fresh water. The liquor when it is 5 or 6 days old is preferable to new : never throw au ay the liquor, in time of clean- sing, unless it sliould stand for two or three months in the summer without being used. When the liquor is new, it will be w'ell to put into 40 or 50 gallons, about 6 or 8 ounces of pearlash or potash. ^ ,'Should the wool not be perfectly clean, as it will not sometimes in full .blooded merino wool, you will in that case add | of a pound of fuller’s earth, in the first place, and afterw^ards a little at a time through the day. Dry your wool thoroughly after rinsing, in a clean place and' it is fit for Cardins'. O On Carding of Wool. It is of tlie greatest importance that wool should be properly carded, in order to manufacture it right ; on this depends the evemiess of the yam, and in some measure the durability of the cloth. If it should not be carded Vvell, it is impossible to make good yam, and consequently the cloth made from it, will be rather of an inferior quality. Wool must be in the first place prepared in a proper manner for the machine, in order to produce good rolls. It should be well sorted, and fine w'ool should be clean- sed from all grease : it should then be run through the picker, and spread on the floor for oiling. Take for every 10 pounds of w'ool one quart of oi^ and with a 44 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. water-pot (such as is used for whitening) or w'ith the hand sprinkle the oil evenly on the wool. Olive oil is to be preferred, as it works the most free. Neats foot is the next best, winter Sperm, oil the next^ and sum- mer do. the next. After it is oiled it should go through the picker again. If it is the finest of wooll, it should be roke or carded twice ; the first time of carding it should not be fed on the machine more than one third or fourth as heavy as it would require to make rolls. After this you can proceed to make rolls. Coarse or common wool does not require §o much oil as fine— neither does it want breaking, except when worked in mixtures. In making mixtures, particular care must be taken to have the colors well mixed. They shbuM be picked sepa- rately, and then a laying'of one kind spread upon th^ floor, near the feeding table of the picker, and the oth- er color or colors, spread even upbn the first ; so continue spreading one laying on the top of the other, until you have spread the whole. .. Then take from the top laying down to the floor, as'inuch as you can en- close under one arm, and wiffi the odier hand feed it on the picker. After it is picked, oil as before directed ; then pick it twice more. After this it ^ould be broke, then picked again : you will then take a small lock, and by working it in your hand -with a little soap, will mat it together ; by this it will be readily perceived whetlier it is mixed even or not. If it is mixed even, you will then proceed to make rolls of it ; but if not it must be broke again. To find whether rolls are good or not, take up one or more and look through to the light; if well carded they will be perfectly clear, and by stretching them, the harle or fibres v. ill draw out to their full lengtli. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 45 On Spinning JVool. Spinning is a branch of manufacture, that requires a strict attention, and a steady hand to perform it well. By observing tlie directions hereafter mentioned, spin- ners will find it to their advantage. 1st. To spin fine yam, or that which is 80 knots to the pound, on a common Jenny, with a stretch of six feet, have your ropings as fine as to take up 2 feet 3 or 4 inches of the stretch ; then shut in your ropings and begin drawing your thread with as much twist as the tliread will bear and not break. Should you, after taking *the twist from the roping, draw your thread with too little twist, it would draw in- to fine places, and become rough and uneven. 2d. Spinners should use the greatest care in build- ing their copps, or broaches j if they are careless in that particular, the expense of windii^ and waste of yam, becomes so gi'eat ^a^'.to take off a considerable share of the profits. - To avoid , this, begin rimning the yam as low down as the Spindle will admit. Spread the yam no wider tlian' pile ii^h, in the first place ; you will then keep the copp, or broach, as large as conven- ient, observing' not to rUn tlie thread below the largest part, keeping your copps in a proper form, until finished, so that the thread will rrm from tlie top end, as from a bobbin. Copps or broaches properly made, are pre- feired to spools for warping ; they are likewise allow- ed to be better for winding from for bobbins and quills than from skeins or reeled yarn. Warping of Woollen. For the purpose of Warping, bars should be prefer- red, in particular to warp woollen yam from cops or F 2 46 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. broaches; a mill in other cases will answer an equal purpose, and by many would be preferred. To waip a woollen web, 20 spools or cops is a suffi- cient number for a set. Begin at the top to take your lease, by first making a knot at the ends ; run yom- hand through the division of your Spools or cops, quite up to the knot : then place your left hand thumb through this division, drawing the knot close down to tlie ball of the thumb. In the next place with your right hand, begin taking the lease at about the distance the pins in the bars are from your left hand. First take the lower tliread on the bottom division, being under side of your right hand, and over the thumb ; next of the upper division, upper side of your hand and under your thumb, and so on un- til you have taken up all the threads. You will now lay up your lease as you have it in the right hand ; then draw Jtlie ■ le^se- taken between your right and left hand out’ ;(,o. the knot,, in the first end of your piece. The next lease vQu -will take in the same way, by saying the lease that is drawn out in the begin- ning; lay your lease as^u KoM thhm.in your hand on the pins, excepting the firitt, Avhtch you will lay on the division that is on your thumb, oyer the first pin in going up : then draw your lease and the lower division comes at the top; tlren carry it straight over to the thumb pin, by bringing the two divisions, one down, and the other up ; then turn your right hand up as in the first place, rvhich crosses the divisions between the thrum pins : then lay the upper division over the last pin as you go down, by having the lease right in the lease pins. Sizing of Woollen^ AS PRACTICED IN THE FACTORIES. For 20 pounds of woollen warp, dissolve in 12 quarls MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 47 nf unter 2^ pounds of best Irish glue in a pot or kettle moderate fire, by stirring it often to keep .t from stickinff or burning at the bottom. „ , , mfn it is dissolved, prepare a tub perfectlpmooth so to your yam maybe kept m good ordei ; then pouf olfVr glue liquor one third part of it mto the ^^^Beein at the knot dirumbs of your warped piece, by curto it round iir the bottom of your tub and pressing h do at the same tme, until you have got one third ;L* bou?m'^side up, and be careful *at all your is wet having; the glue liquor so warm as not to scald. Y^will nol begil at the end of the web wrmg bv taking one hand over the other, until all the first I wrung, which must be taken oiRside of he \v etting I ng.. Then add a third part of the Sue liquor again, and alp a thW part of the yarn, and nroceed as before,, until it is alLwet and \yrung. Ob- Ce to^ingit hotodeRthan^Feventit from drain- “"^You will then spriad yom yfim upon^a stretch, out of tors, keeping it frofti jre ^ound; ^en ^un your raith or raddle throngH^ it, af you would m beaming , then take out Your mith to 'dry it. , When it is dry' see. that your knots or bouts are even, anto a small stog • around the web, once in about five yards of each other ; then chain it up, to it is ready for beaming. Beaming the Web. In order to prepare for this operation you must have the SXoStop Lm which is over the seat of your loom^made sraLth; carry °f *e w-eb ^verthB girth, and bring it dot™ on the yam b«am’ ^ j-our rod prepared for that purpose mto the lease. You 48 IMANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. will next place the knots or bouts in the raithor raddle the widtii you will have your cloth, by cai-efully obser- ving that you have the piece equally divided in the M icltli ot the loom. In die next place you ivill proceed to wind on your piece, keeping the yam perfectly smooth on die beam, so tliat there shall be no iinei'en places or ridges Should you be careless in that respect, and suffer the bouts to drop into the hollows, the yam while weaying will part ol It become loose, and shew the effect of it in the flan- nel. As a remedy against this, moye your raith mode- rately backwards and forwards, at different period*^ in the course of beaming. When it is nearly all vyound on, place m your lease rods, and tie the ends together so that the lease will be safe; then put in a st>ff rod through your thrumbs, spread the piece on this rod, and make fast a cord fo the rod, to hold the remaining part or the web, and finish beaming, ° ^ You will then hahg up the raith or raddle nearly oyer the harness, cut your tfirums and bring your lease rods leyel ; then knot up the ends, and it is ready for draw- me o Weaving Woollen. Weaying is an important part ofmanufacturingtroods. 1 he cloth should be well m^de by the iveayer 'otlier- wise it cannot afterwards be rliade good. It is a mista- ken idea that m^y people assume, that flannel should be rnade thin. ^V-^en flannels are made in this manner It IS irnpossible lor the clothier to giye satisfaction, as it lastly devolyes on him ; he is reproached for some mis- management, and many times when he is entirely blame- less. Fl^inels for fulled cloth, should be made as stout as possible by the weayer ; at least they should put in of filling one quarter more than waip. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 49 * It may be supposed by many that the same quantity of wooll thus wove, will not produce the same proportion or number of yards of cloth when fulled, as if wove thin; but this is a mistake r it should be considered that it requires less fulling than when othenvise done. It is no doubt noticed by many, that domestic made cloth when worn thread bare, the thread has the appear- ance of a kink ; this is owing to the flannel being wove thin, which requires so much fulling before it arrives at a suitable thickness, that the threads become crooked and knotty. Should your cloth be wove thick, with the threads brought firm' and close one with another, the cloth when ^vom thread bare, will appear nearly as smooth and himdsome as in the first \^-ear of it. On preparing the filling for Windhig.. If you will have a good piece of flannel, Avet your bobbins or quills in weak soap 'Suds, .and be sure to have your filling thoroughly wet. To do this in a pfoper. manner, take a small quill or tube, 6 or 8 inches long, and, place the tube fairly upon the bobbin or quill, while holding it under the suds li- quor, when by sucking the. air out the yam, it will wet Avith the greatest ease. • ' Raith or Raddle. Some attention is necessary to be paid to this instru- ment, for beaming your piece. For broad weaving, you will have the raith the full width you wish your cloth, whether eleven quarters or under. Calculate the teeth w'ithin that distance to take up a web of a mid- dling fineness, by placing every half bout bedveen each of those teeth. In w^ebs, finer or coarser, wfliere you 50 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. i have occasion to place your bouts or half bouts, ir double or skipping teeth, be careful to divide the hall knots or bouts at such distances, as to give an even pro- * portion, in spreading the yam on the beam properly. — This utensil being of a simple construction, it will re- J iiire but a few words to direct how it should be m.ade. n the first place, plane a stick smooth, one and a hall inches square. After ascertaining the number of teeth you will w'ant, set them within the distance you want your cloth, by dividing the distance with a pair of com- passes or dividers, hav'ng them the size of a quill, and 2| or 3 inches in length ; then frame in a couple of posts at each end,, with- tenons for a cap piece, which last must be grooved out to set on the ends of the teeth. having small pins to keep it t^,its place, and it is finish- ' ed. Jfiemmg Draft. . , V • Before we conrHrqence giving directions, as it respects the various drafts • wlfich follow, k will be proper to give some explanation ‘gf * terms^ th^t are used; which will ansv/er for ti guide in many respects for all the drafts in our work, i? strict attention is paid to the sub- ject. ■ , ; A short cord, is a cora fixed to the long lam and treadle ; this cord raises up a wing or shaft of the har- ness, w'hen the weaver treads the treadle, to v hich it is attached. A long cord, is a cord that is fixed to the short lam, and passes between the long lams, and connects with the treadle : when this treadle is trod, it pulls down a part of the wings of the harness. Wings of the harness, are a number of shafts, on which are worked a kind of loop with twine ; through these, the warp passes. The wings are connected with the jacks above, and short lams below, by the help of cords. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 51 Long lam, is a long stick which is raised up and own while weaving, by being connected with the readle, by the help of a short cord. The long lams aise up the wings when the treadles are trod down by leans of the short cords, and other cords which follow *om the ends of the long lams to the ends of the jacks n the top of die loom. These jacks are a number of ticks which moi'e on a pin in a frame at the top of die lom. Short lam, is similar to a long lam only shorter, and io\'es on another pin above the long lams. The short inis puil down the wings when the ti-eadle is trod by lelp of the long cords ; they should be placed in the lom so far above the long lams .as not to touch them t hen the treadle is firmly doivn. Draft, is a form of directions by which to commence nd perform ivork in weaving. Also in drawing through he n arp into the harness, it is turned the draft Cording, is a name found in ail of the above drafts, nd made to distinguish the long short cords. The Dng cords are distinguished by cfossgs, and the short ords by blank spaces. N. B. The learner will see'^that the • long lams can- lot be represented in any of tlie drifts, excepting in hose that are not connected With the cording ; as for in- tance they are not seen in draft No. 1, but ai'e in No. 7. The short lams are not to be seen ip any of the [rafts : we therefore refer the reader to the engraving, vhich shews the tieadles, l^ms, wings &c. The front wing of the harness in tlie following num- >ers of drafts, will have knit on it double the number of lelves that each of the other w ings have : and when draw- ng there will be left out opposite the figures one helve 0 Uvo threads drawn ; viz, in numbers, 8, 9, 10, 12, 13 .4, 16, 18, 19, 22, 23, 25^ and 28.. 52 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. JVo. I. Bird Eyes. DRAFT. After the cords of tiie harness are made even, so that they will hang level ; you will then commence drawing on the right. Begin on the back wing, and draw A, B, C, & D, then leave out one helve on the front shaft D, next draw C, B, A, and the draft is once over, which is 7 threads. You will then begin again on A, and go over again as before, being careful to put one helve on D. So proceed backwards and forwards until all the the yam is drawn through tlie harness. In the cording there are eight long cords and eight short ones. ' • ■U u w Hjuuumw c f 34 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT, No. 1. Bird Eyes. Cording. Draft. JU_! •r — l III) " - 6 ^ III) Q*- 1 1 1 L Tread of the piece. fj is the first tread : it pulls down by means of the two cords (represented by the two stars) wings or shafts, A & D & raises B i& C. H is the second tread and pulls down wings C & D & raises A &. B. E the third tread, and pulls down wings A & D & raises B & C. G the fourth tread, and pulls ^own A &’ B & raises C & D. F the fifdi tread and pulls down A & C & raises B & D. H the sixth tread and pulls «lown C & D & raises A A; B. F the seventh tread and pulls down A & C & raises B & D. G the eighth tread and' pulls down A & B & raises C & D. The tread is now once over, and you will begin a- gain at E, and go over as before. This pattern is wove with four' wings, four treadles, and sixteen cords, as will be seen by the draft and cor- ding. tread- les MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 55 No. 2. Three Shaft Ticking. Cordinsr. Draft. V -!-!-rr! — o-| § I I I I I I I I I mil mil £ D C B A 1 I I I « ireudles. Tills pattern is wove with 3 wings,^5 treadles and 15 cords } and the draft is represented as being once drawn over : you will next begin to draw through the back wing F, then the middle one G, then the front one H, and so go over with it in that way until all your yarn is drawn through the harness. The learner will observe that by treading thus, A, C, B, D, C, E, the draft will be twice over, and the treading once. Use the same slaie as for plain cloth, and draw 3 threads through a reed or split. No. 3. Cording. Four Shaft Ticking. Draft. This pattern is wove with 4 wings, 4 treadles, and 16 1 cords. The draft is represented as being drawn over once. I You will then begin to draw over again as before, first through the back wing E, then F, G, H, and so through the piece. I The treading is represented by figures. In the first 1 place tread figure 1, then 2, 3, 4, which is once over ; then begin again as before and tread figure 1, and so on. Use a slaie two beers lower than for plain cloth, and draw 4 threads in a reed. Tread- let 56 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT, No. 4. Elastic Cord. Cording. I J I t I I Draft. I I I I — — o — s — fi - (N- I I ' I ) I I 1 I'll 0 : i, III! Nil This pattern is formed by four wings, six treadles and sixteen long cords, Avhich are rep- resented by crosses ; these cords connect the short lams and treadles. Eight short cords. — These are represented by the spaces in the cording : they connect the long lams and trea- dles. See No. 1. Bird eye. The present draft as it appears, is once drawn over: thus, first drawn thread through wing A, next C, B, D, begin again at A, and so go on as before. TBEJlD. j j j I j Tread first, figure 1 ;..next, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. treading tlris once over, is the draft tu ice nufi f6. ji' it is cGj'.ded coo'ectly, figure 1 pulls douTL v.‘ine;s A & B ; figure 2.,„ €; & D ; figure 3, A B ; nguTC 4., C, u ; ngure 5, IV, •tigure 6, A,C, 1} ; figure 7, A, B, D ; figure 8, A, B, C. Should the weaver wi^ to. make this entirely plain cloth, he can by using the two middle Readies only; as flh rcted; thus, 1, 2, 3, 4. Use the same slaie asf&!> plain cloth, 2 tlireads in a reed. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. No. 5 . Herring Bone. 57 Cording. 'J-'-L J_1J I -L * till Draft. I 1 I I 04 I I O 40 I I I 1 : OC i t>* The figures on this draft represent it as being drann once over ; you will then begin again at figure 1, and go over in the same manner. There is in the cording to this draft, 8 cords that are rep- resented by crosses, and also 8 that are represen- ted by spaces. The eight that are distinguished by crosses, are long cords that connect the short lams and treadles. The spaces, are cords con- necting the long lams and treadles. TREAD. If the cording is correct, the treadles will pull down the wings as follows: First tread pulls 'J read- down wings, figures 1 2; second, figures 2 & 3 ; third, figures 3 & 4 ;; fourth, 1 8c 4: fifth, 3 8c 4 ; sixth, 2 8c 3 seventh', 1 8c 2 ; eighth, 1 8c 4. The tread is now once over, and the draft twice. — Use a slaie 4 beers fiber th^m for plain cloth, and draw 2 threads in a reed. G 2 * • 58 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. ;No. 6. Six Shaft Twill. Cording. Mill Mill i I M Draft. _ZZZ — \ — s I II I ! j : i 1. i-j'i 1 i I i ' i • lit!’ This pattern is formed by 6 wings and 6 treadles. The draft is calculated for stripes, bvo col- ors in the warp, and is represented as being once drawn over, as thus : 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. You will tlien begin again at 1, and go on as before. In this cording there are 18 crosses, or long cords, attached to the short lams and treadles, and 18 spaces, or short cords, which are at- tached to long lan^ and treadles. If tlie cording is correct, figure 1 on the treadles, which is ^e firstti'ead, pulls down fig. 4, 5 8c 6, on the hamSS!^ fi^re ^ pulls down 1,5 8c 6 ; figure 3, pulls domi 1, 2 8c 6 ; figure 4, pulls down 1, 2 & 3 ; figure 5, pulls doU'W 2, 3 8c 4 ; figure ^6, 3 4 8c 5. You will use a slaie six beers finer than for plain cloth, and draw 2 threads in a Treadles^ ( I I i i MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 59 No. 7. Bird Eyes ^ Twilled. Cording. > < I I I r I I'l I t I'l ‘ _L*“ 1 1 1 1 1 r till)' 1- I I J J ’i ’i“i “T f I Draft. - 8 - 6 —- — 5-1 - ---4 2 — -8 6 — . M B Cfi U 1/! p 0 ) -2 — -3 — -4. — a rt| |>n oot." 'readies, I I II I I This pattern is formed witli 8 wings in the harness, and six treadles. The draft is repre- sented as being drawn once over, viz : draw first on E, tlien F, G, H, then the back wing A, then on C, B, C, A, D, B, D. On the 4 back \vings, the learner will percdve we skip shafts. You will now begin again, on E, and so on, according to the figures on the shafts of the harness ; observing that in drawing the pattern once over, will take 32 threads. The cording is represented by 12 crosses, and 36 spa- ces. The crosses or lopg cords being attached to the short Wilf puli down a part of the wings, while the spaces or short cords attached to the long lams, raise the rest of the wings. TREAD. Begin first on treadle figure 1, which pulls down wings D, and E. next on figure 2, fig. 3, fig. 4, fig. 5, fig. 6, fig- 7, fig. 8, _ The treading of the pattern is now once over : begin again on fig 1, and go on as before. The pattern of tlie cloth is formed of 2 colors in the warp, drawn 8 and 8. For the filling you will use a different color. The bird’s eye appears in tlie filling, and the twill in the warp. Use a slaie 4 beers finer than for plain cloth, and draw 2 threads in a reed. The warp and filing are to be of an equal fineness. pulls down A and F. pulls down C and G. pulls down A and H. pulls down D and E. pulls down B and F. pulls down C and G. pulls down B and H. 60 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. ]So. 8. Figured Chambray. Cording. Draft. 4 . 2-4 2 - 4 . 2 - 4 . 2-4 2 - 4 . 2 - 2 -^ This pattern is formed with 5 wings and 5 treadles. The draft is represented as being once drawn over, viz : diaw first on C, next on F, C, E, D, E, D, E, and so on through, there being 24 threads drawn. You will then begin again on C, as at first. The cording is represented by 12 crosses, and 13 spaces, the crosses represent the long cords that connect the short lams and treadles, and the spaces, the short cords tliat connect the long lams and ti'eadles. TREAD. Begin first oil ‘treadle I, next on J, I, J, H, J, H, J, and so on through, as the treadle draft directs ; the left foot M'hen weaving being continued on treadle J. Use a slaie 2^ers finer than for plain clotli and draw 2 threads in a reed. 1 1 1 j ' 1 ' I I I i i I >4 I I I « i I J I HGF treadles. MANUFACTURER’.S ASSISTANT. 61 No. 9. Diamonds ^ Squares for Diaper. Cording Draft. 4 3| i I I I I I t'i 4 .| *^1 V 4| I I ^1, ills 'III 2 1 4 .S .1 I I 21 MM i ! i i 1 1 1 1 1 1 GH.I.TKL. treadles, I ■a I I ■ I II lU i 1 1 I 4, 2-4 2-4 2-4. 2-4. 2-4 2-4. 2-4. 2— ^ - This pattern is formed with 6 treadles and 6 wings in tlie harness, obseiwing that half of the threads are drawn on the front ndng F. The draft represents the threads being dra^vn once ovei’. It begins thus : first drawn thread on E, which is the second wing from the front ; next drawn is F, then again E, F, then D, F, D, F, C, F, C, F, B, F, B, F, A, F, A, F, B, F, B, F, 0, F, C, F, D, F, D, F. You will then be- gin to dra\v again as before, on E, F, observing that you \\ ill draw 32 threads, to form tire draft once over. The cording is repi'esented by 15 crosses, and 21 spaces. The Trosses are shewn for long cords, to be attached to the short lams, o ■' E . nr^ uv/vvij M « ^-^4. LilCT i. Il6 spaces represent short cords, attached to long- lams, which raise the rest of the u'ings. TEEM. In the treading, you will obsen^e to begin the tread on treadle I, then G, I, G, J, G, J, G, K, G, K, G, L, G, L, G, and soon, until the ti-eadis through ; next be- gin at the top of the column as before, ob.‘ er\ ing (hat it takes 32 treads to form the figure, and that tire left foot while weaving tliis figure is aln ays on treadle G, which makes the plain part of the cloth, nhile the rest of tlie treadles make the flower. Use aslaie 2 beers finer than for plain cloth, and dra\v 2 threads in a reed. The fig- ure is a diamond of 16 blocks. 62 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. No. 10. Diamond Diaper. Cording. I < I I I I lilt I I J- < » I «'~t » f I I t I i i I i~~ 1 2 1 1 11 4 1 1 3 2 i 4 1 1 |3 2 1 1 4 1 1 3 2 1 4 3 1 21 1 i 43 j 1 2 1 1 4 3 1 2 1 4 3 2 i 4 " 1 1 13 IM i 1 li 1 1 Draft. 2 2-2 2-2 2-^^-2 2-2 2-2 2-2 2 — This pattern is formed with 6 wings and 6 treadles — obser^dng that half of the threads are drawn on the front wing, F. The draft is represented as being once drawn over. First begin to draw at figure 1, on the back wing A, next on the front wing F, then again on A, next on F, and so on from figure 1 to figure 2, as you will find pointed out on the 6 wings of the harness, until you get the figure in the draft all drawn : then begin again as before to draw on A, and F, taking notice that you will draw 32 threads to fomi the figure once over, which is when wove, a diamond of 25 blocks. The cording is represented by 19 crosses, which signify long cords to be attached to the short lams, also bv 17 spaces, which signify short cords, which are attached to long lams. TREJD. I.KJ I HG. Xhe treading is represented by figures, and treadles, (^jj-gcted at the top of the treadle draft how to begin the tread, which is thus, — Fig. 1, which is tread- le G, figure 2, is treadle L, and so on until you tread the figure through, and you will find it takes 32 treads to form it, and that the left foot vi hile w eaving, is al- ways on tlie left treadle L, m hich makes the plain part of the cloth, while the rest make the flower. If instead of the above figure you wish a diamond of 9 blocks only, you will begin the tread on treadle I, and tread through all the treadles to the left, then back as far as treadle J. Use a slaie 4 beers finer than for plain cloth, and di'aw 2 threads in a reed. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 63 Ko. 11. Bags, (wove whole.) Cording. I } ■ • ' ■ Draft. I I- l« This pattern is formed with 8 treadles and six wings. Draw the first thread on the back wing, figure 1, next on 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and it is draum once over; then begin again on the back wing and go through as before, and so on until all the threads are drawn. In the cording there is 24 long cords, on short lama, and 24 short cords on long lams. I TREJID. 1 I _ ^ First begin to ti’ead figure 1, next figures treadles. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. These treadles form the body of the bag. The tread is to be continued over and 6ver in that way, until the bag is \\ ove as long as you wish : you will then tread the two outside treadles A and B, which will close up tlie end of the bag. The right foot on treadle figui'e 1, takes down 5 wings and raises up one : the left foot fig. 2, takes dovm one wing and raises up five, and operates in that manner through tire tread. Linen yam for a 30 slaie, will be suitable for this pattern, and draw 6 threads in a reed. t54 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT, No. 12. Diamond of 9 Blocks... Diaper. Cording. Draft. 1 - j , ■ 2 - 2 “ 2 - 2 -- 2-2 — 2-2 — 2 - 2 — 2 - 2 " 2 - 2 — j j I This pattern is formed with 5 Readies and 5 I 1 1 v/ings, and you will notice that half of the threads ! ! ? i\re drawTi on the front wing E. The first thread is draAvn on wing D, next E, then on D, E, C, E, C, E, B, E, B, E, A, E, A, E, so continue imtil through, as the draft re})resents. Now go over again as before, beginning on D, until the yarn is all drawn through the harness. In the cording are 13 long cords on the short I ! lams, and 12 short cords on the Ions: lams. TUEJID. 4!|3i 1 I I t i lWi\ 4|o| I I I I I i 21 M I Vo' I I 43| I I : I I I I 21111 , M„I ^11^1 I I I I 1 2|ii1 I I I I I J I H CF I I I t I treadles. The first ti'ead is on treadle F, fig. 1, on the top of the treadle draft ; next fig. 2, treadle J, next F, J, G, J, G, J, H, J, H, J, I, J, I, J, and so on until the draft is trod once over : then begin on F, as before. Treadles F, and J, form the plain cloth, and G, H, I, the flower. If you wish to make it all plain, tread F, and J, constantly. Use a slaie 2 beers finer than for plain cloth, and draw 2 threads in a reed. While you are weaving, the left foot is always on treadle J. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 65 No, la. Rose and Diamond Diaper. Vording. Draft. , —3 1 3 1 3 1 3 1 3 1 — 3 1 — irr!"c! 1 — - — 3 1 — 3 1 — 31 - — 3 1 £ - g 11 [f”! ■l2-42-‘i2-42-42 42 42 4242-42 42-42-42-42-42-42-42-42 — a -!§ 5 f i 6 j .yij I 87 2 i 1 1 i.i3 16,15 87 This pattern is formed with 6 treadles, and 6 wings. The first thread, is drawn on wing A, next on C, next on B, C, A, D, B, D, and so on as the draft directs ; until once over, ^ I ) then commence again on A, as before. There are 10 long cords, on short lams : and 26 short cords on long lams. TBEJID. The first tread, is on treadle I, fig. 1, under the cording, next on 1^, fig. 2, next on J, L, I, K, J, K, and so on, until the nhole tread is completed. G and H, forms the plain bar, but if you tread I, J, K, L, only, it will form it into stripes. Use a slaie 2 beers finer than for plain cloth, and draw 2 threads in a reed^ 21 43 I.K JIHG ,111111 rreadWs* MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 60 No. 17, Eight Shaft Coverlet. 7531 — 7531 - 8642—8642 -7531— 31— 7531- -804-2 42 8642- Draft. -7531 31 7'531 < - -8642 42 8642 pq - 7531—7531 O- 8642—8642— P - -O -K -S3 Cardins. I I ABCDEF 1! |3 6! i7 1! i3 5!l 17! 1'! 2 4 6 l7 1 1 !2 |4 j6 \8 l2 111 ie !s SI I 5!! i3,'| siii k 1 1 1 1 1 Treawe. 12 u 16 ! 8 This pattern is formed with 6 treadles, and 8 wings. Tlie wings are represented, as be- ing in two divisions, with 4 wings in each. You will now begin to draw the first tliread, on the back division, wing A, fig. 1, next di'aw on B, fig. 2, next A, B, A, B, A, B, then on C, D, C, D, C, D, C, D, and so on, as directed through the draft: observ^ing, that it takes 72 threads, to di'aw the figure once over : you will then begin on the back wing A, as first directed. Should the weaver wish to have a larger figure, for the coverlet than the draft repre- sents : he may vary it according to his fancy, by observing that the tread is guided by the draft : and that the number of treads in the treadle draft, must be twice the number of threads, that are in the drawing through the harness. 70 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. Explanation of Cording and Tread for No. 17. In the cording, there are 25 long cords for short lams, and 23 short cords for long lams. TREAD. In the whole tread of the pattern, there are 10 chan- ges, being the same as in the drawing the threads. There are only three changes represented in the treadle draft for want of room; these three, and all the others described hereafter, have double the number of treads that there are threads in the drawing ; this is caused by the binding yam, which is operated by treadles A and B. You will observe, that the left foot is continued on treadle A and B, through the whole draft in treading, which is 72 treads and 72 treads for the right foot also. First begin to tread on treadle A, fig. 1, with the left foot, next F, right foot ; and so on being' 16 treads. Next right foot on E, (le& footas before) 16 treads. Right foot on F, 8 treads. “ “ on E, 16 treads. “ “ on F. 16 treads. “ “ on C, 16 treads. “ “ on D, 16 treads. “ “ on C, 8 treads. on D, 16 treads. ‘‘ “ on C, 16 treads. The draft is now once over, begin again as 'at first MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. n No. 18, Compass Diaper. - 31 - -31- Draft. -31—31 31—31 — — fQ — 3 31—31 -31 — 31—31 — 31—31—31 O — S _4i24242424.24242 42424242-42424242-424'342424‘2— Cording. This Ptittem is formed with 5 treadles, and lixiz J 5 wings. Half of the threads, are drawn on the front w'ing E. The first thread drawn, is fig. 1, on wing C, next on E, then on C, E, D, E, D, E, and so through, as the draft di- rects. When through, the draft is once over : you will then begin again on wing C, as be- fore. There are 12 long cords, on short lams, and 1“ 13 short cords, on long lams. 3 TREAD. The first tread is- on treadle G, fig. 1, un- der the cording, next on treadle J, fig. 2, next on G, J, F, J, F, J, and so on, as far as is rep- resented on the draft. Then continue on 'with the right foot 4 changes thus, (left foot as before) C 4 treads (including the left foot) H, 4, T, 4, H, 4, which completes the tread. J, forms the plain part of the cloth, the rest make the flower. While you are weaving, the left foot is al- ways on treadle J. The slaie should be 2 beers finer than for plain cloth, and drawn 2 threads in a reed. II I 3 'f i! si |i 13 1 j V U V' 1 3 1^ lU 3 ! ol { 72 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. No. 19, Half Diamond Diaper. Cording. I t I Draft. _ 6s 21 43 2 4 2 4 2 4 2 4 II ^ ^ ’ " 7 g -"3 j ^ — : — ---3 1 ‘£ I - -4. 2 4. 2-4. 2-4. 2-4. 2-4. 2-4. 2-4, 2-i 2— S I 42 - 42 - 42 - This pattern is formed with 6 treadles, and 6 wings. Half of the threads are dra\'. r on the front wing F. The first thread drawn, is fi^. 1, on wing E, next fig. 2, on F, next E, F, D, F, D, F, C, F, C, F, B, F, B, F, A, F, A, F, .md so on through the draft, then begin again on E, as before. There are 17 long cords on short lams, and 19 short cords on long lams. TREJD. [ 11 The first tread is on K fig. 1, at the top, next 1 I j on L, next on K, L, J, L, J, L, and so on, un- LK j iHG til through, as directed. 'I'reudL^ G and L, form the plain part of the cloth, and the rest tlie flower. While you are weaving the left foot is always on treadle L. The slaie should be 2 beers finer than for plam cloth, and drawn 2 threads in a reed. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. No. Diamond Coverlet. Harness. > a 0 a I I I I I I I I I I I 1 1 I I I I I I I I l-'tx I r-CNl I I I I I I I 1 I I I I I I I I I I I I I II I I I I I I -O' I l«^ -3^1 I «. 1 I -O' I 1 O' a d o H 1 1 1 1 I l-o» I 1 1. f-!N rtTji I I I ", i This pattern is formed with 6 treadles, and 8 wings. The wings of the harness, are represented as being in two divisions, with four in each. Draw the first thread, on the front di- G, fig. 1, next on H, fi£ vision wing '^.-O'l I ^ n I I s, l l-0< 1 I -q* I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I 1 I I I I -O'! I 1 I I ) — oi > I I I I I ^5^ j C^rfi J I I cOyfi NOO «- t t t I ■| i"i I ii » I r -3 -» 5 8 6 » 6- 5 15 1 17 8 7 - 515151 - -7 3 7 373- ■tUitt- -6 1 -7 3- -4. 2' -8 6 78 5 l-«<- U-r-i b 6- ft - Si ■ ^ ■ o -ffj •K- M ®i^il * ' 87 ! 1 I I I I 3| I I ! 5 This pattern is formed with eight treadles, and 8 wings. The wings are represented as being in two divisions, with 4 wings in each. You will now begin, by drawing the first thread on the back division, wing A, fig. 1 : next draw on C, B, C, A, D, B, D ; com- mence next on the front division, w^ing E, then G, F, G, E, H, F, H ; begin again on the back division, wing A, and so on through tlie draft. Then begin on the back wing A, as first directed, observing that it takes 80 threads to draw the figure once over. There are 32 long cords, for short lams, and 32 short cords for long lams. TREAD. The first tread is on treadle I, begun at fig. 1, near the cording ; next tread r, fig. 2, then J, P, I, O, J, O, which makes 8 treads : then K, N, L, N, K, M, L, M, ma- king 16 treads ; you will then continue to tread all the draft of treading through, being in the whole figure 80 treads; it is then be- gun on I again, fig. 1, on the top as before. I PONML K J X 79 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. No. 25 , Rose and Compass Diaper. ' VWVWWX/'W^ WWW wv^ ^ B I a n ■ ■ B ■ BBS I H ■ B I mam mam V B a a B ■ B ■V I "a_B -ol- — « ■ — 31 — b — C 31—31 31-31- U 31 — 51—31—31—31 — -31—31—31 63- 424242424242424242424242424242424242 vwwwwwvwv'vwvw Tliis draft represents the figure as being drawn once over. There is on it 18 changes, 4 figures to a change as 1, 2, 3, 4. The four figures or threads, when draivn, make one block, and 18 blocks from the right, w hich extend only to O on the plate, is all that the draft of the harness represents. The blocks to the left of that let- ter, is the figure commenced again, and placed there to make tlie plate appear square, as it is in the clotli. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 80 I - Cordins |3| I II l|3 iU! !|31 si! 1 1 LK J IHG 2 4 2 4 2 4 Sijiii ^lUll 52]ll 1 I 4| 21 4‘ 2 4j 2 4 ■si 4" 2! 4l 2[1 4|3 211 No. 25 , Corclina; and Tread. In the cording there are 16 long cords on the short lams, and 20 short cords on the Ions: lams. O TREJID. I I The first tread is on treadle H, fig. 1, next on L, fig. 2, next H, L, G, L, G, I., and so on un- til the tread is through as directed, being in the whole, 72 treads. While you are weaving the left foot is always on the left hand treadle L, which makes the plain part of the cloth, while the rest forra the flower. The slaie for this pattern, slidura be 2 beers finer than for plain cloth, and trfaw 2 threads in a reed. Explanation of the draft JSTo. 25. This pattern has 6 wings. Draw the first thread on the back wing A, fig. 1, next on wing F, next on, A, F, B, F, B, F, and so on, as the draft directs. Half of the threads are drawn on wing F, bemg 72 threads in the fig- ure. 1 2 43 211 4lS 21 1 43 2il 4 3 2ll 4 - 3 ! ^|S i 21111 Trei in MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. No. 26 , Plain Block Carpet. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 82 Explanation of Draft and Plate No. 26 . This pattern is formed with 8 treadles, and 8 wings. The wings are represented as being in two divisions with 4 in each. Begin to draw on the back division wing A, fig. 1, drawing 12 threads on A, B, C, D, and so on as the draft directs, drawing 120 threads, the last thread being dra\vn on H. You will now proceed to draw the threads for the small blocks, that appear in the center of the plate a second time over, thus draw 4 threads on the 4 back wings A, B, C, D, then four threads on the 4 front wings, then 4 on the 4 back wings, next 4 on the 4 front wings, then 4 on the 4 back wings, and 4 on the 4 front wings. The draft is now through ; although the plate from want of room, does not represent tlie whole figure, as will appear in the cloth. You will now com- mence drawing the whole draft the second time over, beginning the 12 thr^ds A, B, C, D, as at first. • \ 83 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT, ■ No. 26 . Cording and Tread. PONMLS J I I I I i 31 24i|||31 24! ! ! !31 I 2431 1 i 6875 i 1 2431 I 6875 2431 168751 Cordin-s. 241 24 241 I! 24311 I 24| 11131 ! 12431 1 I 2411 M31 1 ! 2431 ! j 24III131 I 1 2431 2431 1 12431 24 24 241 24 24 24 1 I 12431 ! 2431 I 2431 24111 !31 J124S1I) 24l 11131 n 243111 24111131 I I'l I i'l I I In the cording there are 32 long cords, and 32 short cords. 1 131 31 !!3‘ TREAD. The first tread is on treadle I, fig. 1, next on P, fig. 2, next on J, O, I, P, J, O, I, P, J, O, this finishes the first change: you will 'I now tread on the second change, K, N, L, M, and so on, treading as many treads as the draft directs, being 144 treads ; it is then be- gun again as before. 131 31 31 31 31 31 vaoa adOH MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 84 No. 27, Damask Diaper. 85 MANUFACTURER'S ASSISTANT. Explanation of Draft No 27. This pattern is formed with 12 treadles, and 12 H wings. The wings are represented as being in 3 divis- ions with 4 wings in each. Begin the draft on the back division wing A, fig. 1, drawing 4 threads on A, B, C, D, next on E, F, G, H, ■ middle division ; next 8 threads on I, J, K, L, front di- vision : and so on as the draft directs, observing there are 20 changes, and 168 threads. The learner in drawing the threads, must be guided by the harness, or shaft marks, between the figures composing the changes, that he will not draw too many threads on a division at once. The five stripes or columns of blocks, on the left side of the plate, are not to be drawn the first time over, as they are merely laid down to itiake the figure appear square, as in the cloth ; they wall be draw n w hen you commence again, as will be seen by observbg the right hand side of the plate. ii MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 86 Cording and Tread, of No. S7. ^ovdin* I I I 1 I I I 1"TT i_LL‘_ j_i i i_ ~i I T I J J J- I ' »- "t i 1 j j_j J . t I iT I II "l"! J 'l" I II I I I I I I I I WVU TSRQ PONM < ' I I 1 I I I I ^ In the cording there are 60 long I I I « cords, and 84 short cords, II «! 1 1 ' ' - '-1- • I r 1 II 1 1 11(1 II *11111 5 0 1 I 21 III 1 413M j 2 I 1 I 1 4 1 I 3 1 1 I 21 |1 1 4> M 1 1 1 1 1 4i j Ijf 1 2 11 1 ^ 1 A| 2l 4| 2l ^1 4! 2 1 ' M iW ijj 1 |i| 131 I Ml 4 1 M ! 3 1 1 slliliii 1 I ll| ! 3 1 I 2| 4| 2 | 4 2l ii| I I'll 1 ii| 181 I 21 I 1 1 1 I 41113111 ^ 1 1 I . 1 1 I 21 I l^l 1 1 nCF®DCBA tll?i 2l|ll 4 8 1 2|11 43 2I 4l3l 21 I 1 431 I 21II 41311 2 I 1 II 431 I 21I I 1 4 1 3 1 1 sMI , 43 I I I I 2 I I ! 2 I 11 43 2l 4|3| 2 UI 4 1 3 2 ! ^1 21 I *1 2i 4 2l 1 1^1 hgfedcra Tre^oHei’ MANUFACTURER'S ASSISTANT. 91 No. 29, Block Carpet. 'WWVXWV ^ k VWVWV'VA KA ; ? ; J > i IB m ^"■"■"■-^9 1 _ a iBimii 2-2-‘^cq ■3-3^3“0 ^ 5^^'\vwvwvv'v vwv>^wvwvvwvw5v'vvvvwv'\w%'Vva wv'>/v\'WA'W\'\'v\5 §2 MANUFACTUBER’S ASSISTANT. Explanation of Draft and Plate No. 29 . This pattern is formed with 8, treadles and 8 wings* The wings are represented as being in two divisions > with 4 wings in each. ! The draft is intended to represent the figure as be- \ ginning on the plate at letter V, being in die centre of the largest block, and continuing as far to the left as the comer block, which it includes ; it then leaves that block without drawing it the second time, as will be seen by the draft ; then draw die second to the right, which is 8 threads, and so on backwards to V again. This is die whole figure though not as appears in the plate. The first thread will be drawn thus ; begin on the back division, wdng A, fig. 1, next B, C, D, and so on, drawing 12 threads on the back division, as direc- ted on the draft ; next draw 4 threads on the front di- vision, on wings E, F, G, H, and continue drawing un- til once ot^er, being 108 threads. , This being for a carpet, it will perhaps be necessary to dmw double the number of threads in each change, tiian what has been directed in the draft, that the figure may be found large enougla in the cloth : hou^ever you w'ill be guided in some measure by the size of the yam. Should you double the number of threads in each change of drawling the threads, you must also double the number of treads in treading. MANUFACTURER'S ASSISTANT. 93 No. 29 , Cording and Tread. Cording. I I I 31 31 31 31,, I! 31 24! 24 I 24! 5 (24 24 I ! ! 2431 1 I 24, ! 1 {31 24, I 1 |31 I 1 2431 1 I 24|i|i3i I 12431, I 11 2431 1 i I 31 31 31 241 I 24 1 I 24! I 1 1 1 i ,2431 I I ’ * 2431 I 1 I! I >' M I I •'2431'' 24 1 I I , 31 24111131 I I I I I I I I 1 I I I IlMlln J,l243lii 24 I I I I 31 In the cording, there are 32 long cords and 32 short cords. TREAD. Begin the ti-ead with the right foot on tread- le I, fig. 1, under the cording, next with the left foot on P, fig. 2, and so on for 12 treads, being one change ; next on K, N, L, M, whidi is the second change ; then continue treading tlirough as the treadle draft directs, being 17 changes, and 108 treads to complete the figure. You will then begin again as at first. K 2 * ^ ■ 24 II I! 31 24 1 I I I 31 PONMLK J I Treadles. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. No. 30 , Birds Eye Cai’pet. »'VWW\ ,-WW^‘W\VW'VXA.>W\VWWWWVW'VV\VWW%^W\>X/V\WVVWW%WV- ^ pq _7_3_7_3 7_3_7_3- O — i—2—4—2 4— 2— 4— 2 42 42- C _8_6— 8— 6 — 8— 6—8— 6 K-1- -3- -1 — 5-1- C42- -42 4—2 - 8—6 Explanation of Draft No. 30. Th's pattern i« formed with 8 treadles, and 8 wings : the wings are represented as being in two divisions, with 4 wings in each. Draw the first thread on the back division, wing A, fig. 1, next on C, fig. 2, next on B, then C, which forms one change, next draw on the front division, wings E, G, F, G, E, H, F, H, and so on through, as the draft directs, being 60 threads in tlie figure. You will then begin again as at first. The three stripes or colunis of blocks, on the left side of the plate, are not to b e drawn the first time over, as tliey are merely laid down to make the figure appear squan', like the cloth : they will be drawn w'hen you eomraence again, as will be seen by cbscning tUe right hand side of the plate, AIANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 95 Gordina: and Tread for No. 30. Cording. I I t I I i > t“l l_ *1 V I } I I I I > 1 I I '«"i I i ll y T r I I III" — a 4| I !!f 3 1 ,3! I I I A I 5 lllsri iiiiiUi 1 12! IMi lU 3!!! 2 |6I ki *11 * I I 6) 8| I* 1 if' ! 5 In the cording there are 32 long cords, and 32 short cords. TREAD. The first tread is on I, fig. 1, under the cording; next on P, fig. 2, J, P, which is one change; next on K, N, L, N, K, M, L, M, and so on through the whole draft as di- rected, being 60 treads. You will then be- gin on I, fig. 1, as at first. 7! 1 !3i !!!5 !|7 u 3 1 3! 15 7! 3! 7‘ , !U!l n4!3iil POXML K J I I I I I Ml 1 Treadles. 4| 16 Is 2 4 6 8 97 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. No. 31, Cross and Circle Coverlet. . ■- J_ mrru \ ' I I _l ■ r I I B I " f "I • ■ DH- ■ ,I a B , B B I i.a_ B- J_ .1 _B.i ^ VWWW'WW^VW^' ''XiV\'%A/\VV%/W\VVWWWV'V%AV%^VWVWVWVWVWVVW^ I Explanation of Draft No. 31. This pattern is fonned with 6 trearlles, and 8 wings. The wings are represent- ed as being in 4 divisions, with 2 wings in each. The learner will observe, that the drawing of the threads is commenced on the third stripe or block of the plate, and ends on the fourth stripe from the left. The blocks on the right, and left side of the plate, that are Mt represented as being drawn, are placed there merely to exhibit the figure (asmcafly as room will per- mit) in the cloth. The first thread is drawn on wing C, fig. 1, second division, next on D, fig. 2, and SO On until the draft is through, being 83 threads, then be- MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. m Cording and Tread for No. 3 1 Cording. Ill II? I I I I I I I I I I 1 1 1 }2 1 |4 1! ! 2 |3 1 1 4 51 6 |1! 2 3| 4 |5 6 1! |2 |3 j4 5! i 1 jo il 1! !2 3!!l !4 !5M !6 li 2 1 4 1 6 j !7 8 1 lj2 1 134 5\6 |78 i! 2 i3 4 5i 6 17 8 13 5! 12 ]4 ‘7 |8 S^MLK JI f > I f I f treatl/es. In the cording there are 24 long cords, and 24 short cords. TREJD. In the whole ti*ead of this pattern, there are 18 changes, being tlie same number as in the drawing of the threads. There are only 7 changes represented in the treadle draft for want of room ; these seven, as also the rest of the changes, have double the number of treads than there are threads in the drawing : this is cau- sed by the bindin 2 :yam, which is ti'odby tread- les N, M, It will be observ'ed that the left foot is contin- ued on treadles N, M, through the whole draft of treading, which is 84 treads, and 84 treads with the right foot also. Begin the tread on treadle N, fig. 1, under the cording, next right foot on I, fig. 2, M, I, this is one change or 4 treads : next on N, J, and so on 16 treads, which is the second change. Next tread with the right foot on I, twelve treads, K, 8, L, 8, J, 8, I, 8 : this makes all the changes that are represented on the tread- les; tlien continue K, 12 treads, L, 12, K, 4, L, 12, K, 12, I, 8, J, 8, L, 8, K, 8, 1, 12, J, 12; the whole treading in the draft or figure is no\r through, being 168 treads. 99 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. Explanation of Draft and Plate No. 33. This draft represents the figure as being once dran n over ; it takes two thirds of the third block, from the right, (the white spaces being called blocks as well as those that are black,) and continues to the left, fourteen changes. As you take only a part of the block first mentioned, and a part of the third, from the left, it makes but one block, as will be seen by the draft. The pattern is formed with 6 treadles and 8 wings ; the wings are represented as being in four divisions, with t\vo wings in each. The draft is begun thus — first thread drawn on wing A, fig. 1, back di\ ision, next on B, fig. 2, next on A, B, C, D, C, D, C, D, A, B, A, B, A, B, E, F, G, H, E, F, and so on until the draft is once over, when you will begin again on A, lig. 1, as at first ; 48 threads form the figiu'e. Explanation of Cording and Tread for No. 32. In the cording there are 24 long cords and 24 short eords. TRE.iD. The first tread is on treadle I, fig. 1, next N, fig. 2, J, N, I, N, J, N, which is one change ; continue through as the draft directs, being 15 changes in the whole, and 96 treads, which completes the figure ; you will then begin again as at first on treadle I, fig. 1. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 99 No. 32, Eight Shaft Coverlet. 'V^^‘W\rWV'^^AWX*W%'VWW\VV\ CM U> Jco 7 1 |J»I I ■ I I CO Si . I r- I j I 8* itHit MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. No. 33. Broad Cloth. 101 Cording *1 \ "" I I " "i I This clotli is wove with 2 treadles, and four wings in the harness ; and has 4 long cords tliat connect the short lams and treadles, and 4 short cords that are fixed to the long lams and tread- les. Tlie draft is represented as being drawn over once. First draw n thread is on the back wing, figiue ], then 2, 3, 4. You w ill then be- gin again on the back wing as before, and so proceed until ail the threads are drawn. In the treading, figure 1 is for the right foot and figure 2 for the left. Twenty eight pounds of v/ocllen yam should warp 63 yards, or in that proportion ; let the fineness be 2|, 3, 3§, 4 or 4 1 runs to the pound. Tw'enty-eight pounds 4| runs to the pound, 63 yards, 80 beers, eleven quarters wide. 28 lbs. 4 runs to the ^xnind, 63 yards, 72 beers, 10| quarters wide. 28 lbs. 3§ runs to the jx)und, 63 yards, 62 beers, 10 quarters wide. 28 lbs. 3 mns to the pound, 63 yards, 54 beers, 9| quarters wide. . 28 lbs. 2§ mns to the pound, 63 yards, 45 beers, 9 quarters wide. Tor further explanation, see subject of w'oollen wea- ving. L Craft. 102 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. Ko. 34. Casimere. Cording. Draft. — ] — :l3- I — C Harness. H p & o V3 This cloth is wove with 4 treadles and four wings, and has 8 long cords that -connect the short lams and treadles, and 8 short cords that are fixed to the long lams and treadles. In the draft the 1st thread is dramion the back wing, fig. 1, then 2, 3, 4. You will then begin again at figure 1, and so proceed through until afi the threads are drawn. In the treading, figure 1 is the first tread with the right foot, and fig- ure 2 is the next with the left, figure 3 is the next for the right foot, and figure 4, for the left — then begin a- gain on figure 1. The two kinds of Casimere, single and double mil- led, are wove in the same w'ay : the difference is made in the filling. The double milled should be made of slack filling, and the single milled of twist, nearly tlie same as the Vvarp. Fifteen pounds five runs to the pound is sufficient for a warp of sixty-three yards long — 48 beers in the haiv ness, 24 reed, 4 threads in a split — 5 quarters wide,. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 105 No. 35. Satinet, Cording;. I I • 1 n*rr j » < *ri I •'“i* Draft. ? ^ 'V.: ' R..: .." ”7' ♦' '•i', y*' ►'•. • '}• ... DYEING OF COTTON. Remarks and Directions on Preparing and Dyirig Cot- ton Yarn. In tlie first place we will notice that cotton yam must be well cleansed, by making it free from its nat- ural oil, before it can be dyed in a complete manner. Before this is done, it is necessary for the yam to be put in a proper form. We shall therefore now give directions to prepare the yam for boiling. Take a 5 pound bundle of cotton yam, and form the whole into links or a chain, which is done in the follow- ing manner ; after first taking notice that for coarse yam you will take about 3 skeins for a link, but yam that is No. 14 or finer, take 6 skeins. First take 3 skeins and place them together at whole length, then take three more and pass through the first, and double the last; then three more are to be put through the two loops of the last, and so on until you have made 5 pounds into a chain, taking one of the skeins to loop through the last end to secure it. Those dyers who color yarn for manufacturing establishments, or for others in large quantities, will find it necessary to mark the yam, so that each kind may be kept separate, and returned in a regular mari- ner ; indeed this plan must be adopted as a rule ; for it will be found impossible to keep the different numbers separate without ; especially in boiling different num- bers at once. We shall now give directions to mark the j'arn as we have practiced, which will be easily imderstood. — First take a piece of strong twine about a foot long, and put it through the loop of the last skein in the linked chain ; then draw both ends of the twine together, and L 2 106 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. make a knot with both branches of the twine near the loop of tlie yam. This knot made with both branch- es of the twine, you will always count or call as 10, and answers for No. 10 yam. Should a bundle of yam be No. 12, then you must make one large knot, and two small knots on the single branch of the twine, as tlje small knots count one each, and the large ones 10 each. If yoiu* yarn is No. 20, make two large knots. If it is No. 22, make two Targe knots and two small ones ; in this way you can mark any number you wish, which mark will keep on through the operations of boiling, dyeing and drying. After your yam is all chained up and marked for one boiling, you will then prepare your boiler with a suffi- cient quantity of water to cover your yarn while boiling. After the water has arrived at a scalding heat, for every 5 pounds of yarn, put in half an ounce of pearlash ; ^vhen it is dissolved, put in your yam and boil it well foi' about live or six hours, adding water occasionally. The yam is next to be taken out and cooled so that you will be able to take the links apart with your hands ; as you take the links apart, you will count it off into pound bunches, and put 5 pounds of one number on 5 sticks, and those 5 sticks to be kept together; in this way proceed with the rest, observing to examine the twine in the first place, to be sure of the number before you begin to count it off. After you have counted it all off and placed the yam on the sticks, you wtt then rinse it, by taking 5 pounds at a time and turning it in a half hogshead nearly full of water, resting the sticks on tu"o narrow strips of board which are placed on the top of the tub. When you jiave turned the yam for five minutes, take another stiip of board which you must have handy, and place across the two other strips ; then bring up one pound of }'am at a time, until you put up the 5 pounds ; then let it drain, and proceed with the rest in the same manner. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 107 In the next place the yam is to be wung and shook out with care, minding not to break it. Cotton yam is nTung in different ways, sometimes on a MTing- ing machine, and in some dye houses on a pin fixed horizontally into a post ; this last manner of Avringing has one advantage over the other which is this; the yam is continually kept on the dye sticks. Care must be observed to keep each five pounds together through all the operations of rincing, Avringing, dyeing and drying, Avhich is very easy after a little practice. Cotton yam is dyed on sticks, Avhich are about tAA o feet in length and about one inch in diameter ,but some- times little more where the yam is Avrung on the stick and } )in. Dye sticks should be made of hard Avood that is not iable to get rough, as they should be entirely smooth to prevent injuring theyamAvhile you are wringing, sha- king out, or turning it in the dye. In dyeing most colors on cotton yam in dye houses, (excepting mdigo blue) 20 sticks are used, and gener- ally one pomid is put on each stick, Avhich are rested on two narroAV slips of boards over a tub or half hogs- head. The yam is then tinned one pound after anoth- er in the dye liquor, a longer or shorter time as occa- sion requires. In dyeing almost every kind of color on cotton, you will have your dyes no hotter than you can endure your hand in while dipping the yam. The yam is commonly received from factories in 5 pound bundles, and is to be returned in the same quan- tity in a bundle, but not generally in the same manner. The most common method has been to dry 5 pounds on a pole, having the number marked on the pole with chalk, which is done soon as the yam is dyed ; this is done for the sake of convenience in many cases ; but should there be a failui'e in marking the number with chalk, or should it get rubbed off, still the marked 108 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. tvvine on one of the skeins for every 5 pounds, will dis- tinguish the right number. After the yam is dry, for instance, a pole containing 5 pounds of No. 12, you will begin and collect 12 skeins with your right hand, by slipping them into the left ; in taking the last skein of the twelve, you will slip it through the rest, and make a noose or loop, which makes a pound bimch, and so proceed with any other numbers, either warp or filling. You will then take the five looped skeins that secure the pound bunch- es and slip them off the pole and twist them a little to- gether, and \\ hen you carry the yam into a room, lay it down and mark the number with chalk near it. When you put up each 5 pounds lay it lengthwise and save out 2 skeins to bind it ; then put a printed or written ticket on it explaining the number. By following this method of putting up yam in pound bunches, it wall saA^e manufacturers Avho put out pieces to weave, a great deal of time, especially if the dyer is faithful in counting the yarn right. In making out piece^ to weavers, it is essential that the warp is counted e:^act. Some manufacturers count the warp over after the dyer, to be convinced that it is exact, but not the filling, AA^iere it is put up in pound bunches. Observations on Preparing and Dyeing Cotton Yarn in small quantities^ calculated for families. In preparing small quantities of yam for boiling, we recommend to make it into a chain ; which meth- od will be found described in the first part of the first remarks ; also the manner of mai'king the yam and boiling it. It Avill first be noticed that cotton yam for all colors is to be dyed on sticks, having the sticks placed on the top of a tub or kettle while turning the yam, each stick containing on^" oound. Families A’/ill not often have oc- MANUFA CTURER’S ASSISTANT. 109 Oiision to use large tubs or kettles in dyeing cotton. In using small ones, it will be found inconvenient to wring a pound of yam over them ; tlierefore when you MTing the yarn, either the first time after being rinsed, or in the course of dyeing, you will wing only 2 or 3 skeins ' at a time ; it is then to be shook out straight and pla- ced in a sepai'ate manner on the sticks. Directions will now be given to prepare a tub or ket- tle to die 5 pounds of yam. A half baivel tub, or ket- tle that ^vill contaui nearly as much liquor, will be large enough to die 5 poimds. In this case you will have 5 sticks, with a pound on a stick. The yam is to be put in the dye all at once, and turned as long a time as will be here^ter mentioned in tlie receipts. Should you color less than 5 pounds, your tub or kettle may be small in proportion, and observe that your dye for cotton must be as warm as you can bear the hand in while dipping the yam. When you WTing the yarn out of the dye, first move the sticks one side of the tub or kettle,'' taking one small parcel off from the stick at a time until all of it is wrung ; then shake it out and place it on the sticks as before. We recommend to all families who often have oc- casion to dry white or colored yam, to use smooth poles, having the yam himg the u^hole length of the skein ; in this way yam will dry not or’y more even and quicker, but keep in better order for weavmg. N. B. Where families want to boil out cotton yam, tliey can use soap suds instead of peaii ash, if tliey like.- Observations on boiling Dtje Woods. It will not be improper to observe that when any kind of wood whatever is used in d3^eing, it must first be cut into smafi sha\dngs or chips, and put loosely into a thin coarse bag, that it may not stick to the wool- len cloth or yarn, as the rough chips will not only tear no MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. the goods, but cloud or blot them iu those places where they stick. N. B. Observe always to have a plenty of dye liquor, so that your cloth and yarn may be dy- ed even. When chips are boiled up for dyeing cotton, the chips must be allowed to settle at the bottom of the kettle, then pour the clear part off into a tub ; this is where the chips are not put in a bag. Families that have no spare kettles can put the chips into a bag, and use the same kettle for dipping the cotton. Should they put in the chips loose in tlie dye to boil, they can strain it through a clean basket, or very coarse open nmve cloth. In all cases cotton y arn must be dyed in a clear dye free from any chips. On vats used in dyeing blue on cotton & linen. The vats used in d)^eing blue on cotton and linen in the cold dye, are of various kinds and sizes, such as rum hogsheads, brandy pipes, and pine vats. The last kind are usually made particularly for dyeing, and should be of the best white pine plank thoroughly season- ed, sound and entirely free from knots. The staves should be at least one inch and a quarter thick when finished, and bound ^vith iron hoops. Iron bound hogsheads are generally used at most dye houses from being so easily procured ; they will an- swer very well to color cotton yam in once a day, but will not do for linen, as the skeins of linen being so long would distui'b the sediment of the dye ; therefore the vats intended for dyeing linen should be made tall- er in proportion. The top of such vats may be made about the size of a common hogshead, and largest at the bottom. When hogsheads are procured for dyeing blue on cotton yam, choose those which are iron bound, and sound in every part. In first preparing a hogshead for dyeing, great care must be taken to stop the bung hole MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. Ill entirely tight, as the indigo dye is of a penetrating na- ture, and in case it should leak, you would loose tlie best part of it. In order to secure the bimg tight, you will take a square piece of cotton or linen cloth, then mb on some tar and double it about twice, having the ;ar on the inside, place the cloth on the end of the bung ind drive it in firmly, and it will not leak. When you have taken the head out of your hogs- lead, you must get a cooper’s circular shave to smooth he inside of the upper half of the hogshead, to prevent my injury to the yam while dipping. The hogshead s then to be washed thoroughly with a broom or brush ; hen rinsed out well and filled witli water to soak for wo or three days ; then throw out the water, and it will )e fit for use. Before you set your hogshead of blue dye, you will ;ake two pieces of timber or scantling 4 or 5 inches square, each piece being as long as the bottom of the logshead is in width, then match them together in the middle, by saw'ing out a gap in each part : this will fonn i cross for the hogshead to stand on ; by this method mu can save the dye should it leak. Yarn Frame, This frame is used to hang the sticks of yam across hrough all the operations, from the boiling of the yam mtil it is finished dyeing. It is generally made 8 or 10 feet in length in dye houses, and should be a little larrower than the length of the dye sticks, aiid about lalf a foot higher than the length of the cotton skeins. Ohsei'TOtions on grinding Indigo. There are many different methods practiced in grihd- :ig Indigo; we tJiink it not necessary to explain them a 12 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. all, but shall attempt to point out two or three kinds which will be adapted for dyeing blue on a large and small scale. The mill which we most approve of for grinding In- digo, on a large or moderate scale of blue dyeing, is the tub mill, which is of a simple constmction, worfc easy, and perfoiTOs the business well and in a short time. The tub is made of cast iron, and may be about 18 inches in height, 16 inches across the top, and 14| inches across the bottom on the inside t the bottom must be flat and cast as smooth as possible. On the centre of tlie bottom must be a step of iron, which should be formed to the kettle when cast. This step should be abv ut cne inch and a quarter across and one third of an inch in height, which is for the end of the shaft to run on. The step mustbe msade of a round form tvith a hollow on the top of it for the shaft to run in. . . In the next place 4 cast iron cones will be wanting, the length of v Inch must be such as to run easy be- tween the step and outside of the tub; so that accord- ing to the diameter of the bottom of the tub and step, the cones will be 6| inches in length. The large end of the cones may be about 4 or 4| inches in diameter and the small end about § an inch. The large ends must be a little rounding, so that they vcill run easy a- roLind the side of the tub. A shaft is to be placed perpendicular in the centre oi the tub, the bottom of u hich is to run on the step. This must have an iron cross fastened on it near the bottom which is fixed to clrh e and roll round the cones. These four bnmehes of iron which form the cross must be hardened and may be made nearly half an inch in di- ameter, and of proper lengtlr. These branches musi be calculated to strike a little under the centre of th( cones so as to drive and roll them in a proper manner. The shaft may be m,ade of a square bar of iron wid tlie lower end hardened. Tov.ards the upper end yot MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 115 will ha\ e a small drum or pully for a belt or sfrap which can be put in motion by attaching it to other machiner ry or otherwise. On the top of the tub a cover must be fixed, formed of two boards with a hole left in the middle for the shaft to run in, which may be made in such a manner as to steady the shaft while turning, or to fix something for that puiiDose above it. After your tub is cast, yon must drill a hole in tlie bottom of it, one quarter of an inch in diameter, and about trvo inches from the side ; this you Avill have stopped v\ ith a wooden pin while grinding the indigo. When it is ground as fine as oil pour in ater to make it quite thin. The tub must stand firmly on a low bench, so high as to allow a pail to be put under it : in this manner you can draw it off the most convenienth^ Observe that the addition of water must not be made until it is gi'oimd sufficiently to draw off. Before you put in the indigo to grind, it must be soaked in water, then broken up so much as not to clog the cones, w'hich are to be placed between the four branches with the small ends next to the step. It wall be found necessary in making the w ooden tub and cones for patterns to cast by, that great care should be taken to calculate the length and shape of the cones ; which wail be first governed by the size and shape of the tub, and the distance between the step and side ; and it wall be found necessar}^ to try the rolling of the wooden cone before it can be determined w hether it is ris:ht or not. In making the tub pattern and cone, it w ill be well to observe that they must be made of clear white pine stuff and that the staA^es of the tub may be glued to- gether. Having known this kind of mill to operate excee- dingly wtII, w'e have felt a desffe that the plan might be generally knowoi among dyers, and have, therefore, been particular to explain tlie principle and dimensions, M 114 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. in such a manner that any experienced workman might make the pattern. From the circumstance of cones having more surface than round balls, which operate in grinding, it will at once be concluded that tlie former are the best. The common indigo mill, which is carried by water, is nothing more tlw a common iron kettle, that u ill contain from 3 to 5 pails full; having a perpendicular shaft with an iron cross near the bottom which drives round one, two or more cannon balls. The common method of grinding indigo by hand is to suspend an iron pot, of a suitable size, with a rope, and using a cannon ball, which is rolled round by ta- king hold of the legs with the hands. • The indigo is first soaked in hot water, then broken up fine and put in the pot a little at a time, with a sufficient quantity of water to prevent the indigo from sticking to the sides and bottom. The ball is then to be rolled round fora- bout one hour ; then add some water to make it quite thin, and roll the ball a few times round to mix it ; then hold the pot still two or three minutes, and pour ofi' the clear part carefully, into a kettle. You will then add a little more indigo and water and proceed as before, until it is all ground. In this way you can grind it as fine as oil. Indigo may be ground fine, fpr the use of families, wdth an iron mortar and pestle. First pound all the in- digo as fine as coarse gun powder ; then put a little m- digo in the mortar at a time, and add a little v/ater, but not so much as to occasion it to slop over ^^-hile stir- ring round the pestle on the bottom; You will work it roimd in that manner for about half an hour ; then add some water and mix it ; then let it stand till it settles, then pour off the clear part ; then add a little more in- digo, and proceed as before. In this way you can grind it entirely fine. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. DIRECTION I. 115 To Dye Blue on Cotton and Linen in the Cold Dye. In the first place, fill a hogshead about one quarter full of water. 2. Dissolve 16 pounds copperas in about four pails full of warm water, in a small tub or kettle, and then add it to the water in the hogshead and stir it for two or three minutes, then put 8 pounds of finely ground indigo to it, and rake it up well, for about five minutes. 3. You must noiv slack 20 pounds of good stone lime witli water, u hich is best done by first putting the lime into a very low or flat tub. When die lime is slacked to a powder, and while it is hot,- put it into the hogshead and rake it well several times in the course of two or three hours. 4. The hogshead is then to be filled with w ater w'ith- in two inches of the top, then rake it well several times during two days, then leave it to settle over night, and on the morning of the third day, it will be ready for dyeing. 5. If the dye should not be clear, and should not have a deep blue froth or scum on the top, you must add about two pounds of lime, and rake it two or three times during the day, and the next morning it will be fit for use. 6. If tlie sediment of the dye be of a yellowdsh green the dye is in a good condition ; but if it is of a dull and dark grass green then add about 2 pounds of cop- peras which you must dissolve in the dye by the help of the dye rake, (the rake is made by putting a handle through a piece of hard board, in the form of one third of a circle, having the rounding edge made thin,) by pounding and raking Avith it on the bottom of the dye vat. In case the dye should not be clear, add a little lime and it will settle it. If the froth on the surface 116 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. of the dye should be of a dull blue color, add some copperas and indigo, m hich will restore it to a right state for dyeing. 7. When you have dyed two or three days in the dye, you must put into it about 2 pounds of copperas and 3 pounds of lime ; then beat the copperas fine on the bottom with the rake, and stir it up until it is dissol- ved. After using tlie dye a few days, should you find that the dye wants more copperas or lime, you may know by attending to the before mentioned rules, how to vary the quantity of the articles which you add ; but you will observe, that if the sediment of the dye is of a dark green, it wants copperas, but if it bears too much on the yellow it requires a little lime. When your dye is ready for dipping, place two nar- row sn ips of ^vood across the top of the hogshead, to rest your sticks upon, also one to drain the yam on. Method of Dyeing. 1. If you calculate to color regularly every day, to perform with advantage, it will be found necessary to boil out enough yarn at once, to last for dyeing at least two days. After you have rinsed the yarn intended to be dyed in one day, you will Avring it hard and even a pound at a time, and shake it out well, and place your sticks across the horse, or yam frame, observing not to shake out the yam till a few minutes before you begin to color it, as otherwise it would be liable to get dry. 2. To dye blue on cotton, in a profitable manner, there should always be several blue dyes, in a dye house, so that you may haA'e some new dyes, some with about a quarter of the strength used out, some about half and some nearly all used out. 3. Allowing you have several dyes, as above stated, you will begin to dip in the following manner, after stir- MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 117 rifig in the frotli of the dye. Begin by dipping 5 lbs. of yam in the weakest dye, continually turning one pound after another, for about 10 minutes ; then take out one pound after another and place them across the stick to drain. You will then wring it out a little, on a pin, which should be fixed horizontally in a piece of plank over the hogshead ; then carry it to the yarn frame and "UTing it out on the wringing machine, or on the pin which is to be fixed into a post about 3 feet from the floor, having a small tub under it to catch the dye ^vhich you wring out. The yai'n is to be shook out on the same pin which you use for wringing ; placing the sticks as fast as you \\Ting and shake them out, across the yam frame. 4. You may dip 20 pounds of white yarn in this man- ner in the weakest dye. After you have proceeded in this way with each 5 pound parcel, you will then empty the dye which you have \\Tung out in the tub, back into the hogshead which you have just dipped in. The liquor must be put back again in the same way, in every die that you dip in. 5. You will now observe to take 5 pounds that were dipped last in the weak dye, and dip in the second or next strongest, of which the strength is about half used out. In this manner proceed with the remainder of the 20 pounds, observing always to have that which was dipped last in each of the dyes, dipped first in the next strongest. 6. In the next place, go through with the 20 pounds in the third dye, of which the strength is about one quarter part used out ; and lastly give each 5 pounds one more dip in a new dye or the best you have. By this method you will dip 20 pounds of yam, in 4 dyes of different strength which will finish it, and by obser- ving this rule the yam will be well penetrated, and of an even color. 7. If your yam at any time is not like to be deep enough, let it remain in the dye a longer time, but if it M 2 IIS MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. is like to be too dark, then shorter dips must be ob- served. After you have finished dyeing for one day, rake up ; all the dyes, and leave them to settle until next mor- ning. When the weakest dyes are entirely exhausted so they will not stain the yam, throw them a^-, ay, rince out the vat and set again. Deep blue yam is not gen- ! erally rinsed, but if you wish a bright color you can ob- tain it by turning your yam a fe^v minutes in oil of vit- riol and water, having it only as sour to the taste as weak vinegar ; then ^\Ting, rinse, wring again and dry it. Pale Blue. Wlien you wish to color yam pale blue, it must be done by giving it two dips of three minutes each, in a dye half used out, or three dips in a dye still weaker ; then wring and air it : afterwards it is to be rinsed, wrung and dryed. DIRECTION II. Yb dye Blue on Cotton and Linen oyi a small scale sui- table for families. 1. Fill a barrel Avhich is well bound, clean and en- tirely tight, about a quarter part full of water. 2. Dissolve 4 pounds of copperas in a pail of warm water, in a clean kettle, and add it to the water in the barrel : stir it up two or three minutes, then put in two pounds of finely ground indigo of a good quality, and stir it up well for 5 minutes. 3. In the next place you must slack 5 pounds of stone lime, by putting it into a kettle, then sprinkle water on it until it is slacked to pow der ; while it is yet hot, put it into the barrel, and stir it up well four or five times in the course of two hours ; then fill the barrel with MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 119 water within two inches of the top ; stir it several times during that day and the next, and tlie morning of the third day it will be in order for dyeing the yarn. 4. Before you begin to dip the yarn, you must fix a small frame, or other convenience, on two sides of the barrel, to rest your dj’-e-sticks across while you are tur- ning the yam in the dye. This support for the sticks should be about 6 or 8 inches above the top of the baiTel, to prevent the ends of the cotton skeins from disturbing the settlings of the dye. Should linen )'am be dyed in a barrel dye, the skeins must be doubled ; in that case the sticks ai'e rested on the top of the barrel. Method of Dyeing. When your dye is new you can color five pounds the first day which must be well boiled out before hand in weak peaii ash water, or soap suds, tlien rinsed, w rung and shaken out as described in the first remarks on pre- paring' yam for dyeing. 1. JPlace two pounds and a half of yarn on 2 sticks, having the yam di^ddecl into parcels of 3 or 4 skeins, so as to be convenient in WTinging it out of the dye ; then stir in the froth on the top \vitli a stick. You will then put in the yam and turn one parcel at a time ; continue turning it in the dye for 10 minutes, then WTing out one parcel at a time, shake itoutw^ell and place ita- gain on the sticks to ah. 2. Now take the remainder of the white yarn, being two pounds and a half, and put it on two more sticks, and proceed in the same manner as before. Then WTing, shake out and air it, until the green shade chan- ges to blue. 3. It must now be observed, that the yam which was dipped last, must be dipped first the next time, in order to give both an equal share of the strength of the dye. 120 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. You will proceed in this manner until it is dark enough, then wring and dr}^ it. After you have colored 5 pounds of j'arn you will find the dye considerably weaker, so tlie second day you will dye a less quantity, and repeat the dippings as many times as you find necessary, observing to wring and air between each dipping, as before directed. When you have colored in your dye two days, it must be recruited a little, by putting in 8 ounces of copperas, which should be pounded a little — also put in three quarters of a pound of slacked lime ; then stir it up well for 15 minutes with a rake, which you will find described in direction first. The next morning it will be in order for dyeing. After you have colored in your dye a few days you will find you cannot finish dark blues ; but middling and pale blues can be dyed, which will be Avanted for plaids, &c. When your dye is so much reduced that it will not stain yam any more, throw it away, Avash out the barrel and set again. DIRECTION III. Copperas Color on Cotton. To dye 5 pounds of yam it will require 1 pound 12 ounces of copperas, 8 pounds of stone lime, 1 ounce sugar of lead, 4 ounces of pearl-ash, 4 ounces of hog’s lard. Use the same proportions to dye any number of pounds, j The yam must be boiled out a day before hand, butij for tills color it is not to be rinsed. I MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 121 Preparation. 1. A day or two before you wish to color your yam, take a kettle that will contain a pail full, into which you will put six quarts of hot water, then add to it 1 pound 12 ounces of copperas, and 1 ounce of sugar of lead ; stir it well until it is all dissolved, and when it is made use of, mix and take off the scum. 2. Another kettle or. tub is then to be prepared which will contain half a barrel of water : in this you will put 8 pounds of stone lime, and slack it with water to pow- der ; it is tlien to be filled up with water and stirred Avell three or 4 times during the day, then leave it to settle during the night. When it is used, be careful to dip out the clear part only. 3. Now prepare a tub or kettle, which is to be used for dipping the yam, into which you must put 3 gal- lons of water, and oile gallon of the prepared copperas liquor. 4. Another tub or kettle is to be prepared, into which you will put 6 gallons of clear lime water, and 4 ounces of pearlash. When these two last tubs are prepared, you must then ring and shake out the yam, and place it on five sticks. Method of Dyeing. 1. Begin to dip your yam by putting the 5 pounds at once in the copperas liquor, resting the sticks on the kettle or tub. l\im one pound at a time continually for about 15 minutes ; it is then to be taken out, wrung and aired. 2. In the next place dip it in the lime and pearlash liquor, and turn it as before for 10 minutes ; then take it out, wring and air it as usual. 3. Now^ add to the copperas liquor which you have 122 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. dipped in, 3 quarts of water, and one quart of the pre- pared copperas liquor and mix it well to 2 ;ether. 4. The lime water which you have dipped in must now be emptied, and 6 gallons of fresh and clear lime water put in. 5. The yam is now to be dipped in the copperas li- quor for 15 minutes, then wrung and aired, then dipped in the lime liquor for 10 minutes : it is then to be ahed and rinsed. 6. A tub or kettle is now to be prepared with about 6 gallons of boiling Avater, then add to it 4 ounces of hog’s lard ; mix it well and dip the yarn in it for about ten minutes : it is tlien to be taken out, wrung and dried. N. B. Should you wish for nothing more than a common copperas color, you may leave out the pearl- ash and sugar of lead. Those who wish to dye tliis or any other color on a larger scale, must use the dyeing articles in the same proportion. The greatest part of the receipts we have given are on a small plan, but it will be found easy to calculate the quantity of liquor and size of the tubs that Avill be required, to dye cotton yam in larger quantities. DIRECTION IV. Yellow on Cotton, To dye 2 pounds of yarn it will require the folIoAving articles. 8 ounces of allum, 1 an ounce of pearlash, 2 pounds of fustic, 1§ ounces of blue vitriol. Use the same proportions to dye any number of pounds. 1. The yarn should be boiled out a day before hand. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 12S aiid after the same method as will be found in the first remarks on preparing yam for dyeing, it is then to be rinsed, shook out, and put on two sticks. 2. Dissolve in a brass kettle, containing a pail full of hot water, 8 ounces of allum, and half an ounce of pearlash ; u hen the liquor has cooled so you can just en- dure the hand m it, dip die j am and turn it continually for about half an hour ; it is tlien to be m rung and shook out ; tlien sink the yarn entirely under the liquor and let it remain o^'er night. The next morning wring it out, and throw au ay the allum liquor. Dyemg. 1. Prepare a brass or copper kettle with about three pails of water, and add to it 2 pounds of fustic chips cut up fine, which is to be boiled tu o hours. 2. The chips are now to be taken out, and the li- quor suft'ered to cool so as to admit tlie hand in it witliout scalding ; then put in the j^am on the sticks and turn it continually for half an hour : it is then to be taken out, w rung and put on the sticks to air. 3. You m.ust then clissolve one ounce and a half of blue vitriol, a little before hand in some of the warm dye ; then add it to the dye liquor : the j^arn is then to be dipped and turned in it for about ten minutes, then wring and dry it in the shade, N. B. Instead of using fustic you may make a strong dye liquor either from j^ellow^ oak bark, hickorj" bark, peach leaves, or arsemart; but should j^ou use either of the barks, the outside of it should be shaved off. Af- ter steeping and boiling either of the above, the liquor must either be strained or poured oft’ clear. Should j^ou use peach leaves orarsemart, it will require as much as can be crowded under the water in the kettle. 124 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. DIRECTION V. Yellow on Cotton. To dye 2 pounds of yam it vi ill require, 8 ounces of allum, I an ounce of pearlash, 1 pound of yellow oak bark, 1 ounce of blue viti'iol. Use the same proportions to dye any number of pounds. 1. Boil out the 3 am as usual, then rinse it clean and UTing it hard a short time before you dip it. 2. Pre])are a brass or copper kettle with a pail full of u ater, heat it scalding hot, dien dissolve in it 8 oun- ces of allum, and half an ounce of pearlash. When the liquor has cooled a little so that you can turn the yarn witliout scalding }'our hand, tlien place the yam on two sticks and dip and turn it in the liquor for half an hour : it is then to be taken out, uTung, shook out, and sunk under the liquor to remain over night. The next morning wring it out and neiwly dry it. The al- lum liquor }^ou have used is then to be emptied av a3^ 3. In the next place prepare the brass or copper ket- tle w'ith about 3 pails full of clean wwter, and add to it either one pound of }’’ellow oak bark w hen it is in a green state, or half a pound of it w hen it is diy. In either case observe to use onl}^ the middle and inside coat of the bark. Should you use it diy, cut it up fine or grind it, and then put it loosely into a clean open wwe bag. I Whether it is dr}' or green, \'ou must put it into the W'ater when it is cold ; raise the heat b}^ a gentle fire, ! and when the liquor is blood Avarm .put in the}'am having the sticks rest on the top of the kettle turn it for one hour and a half, during which time the V ater should not become w armer than the hand can bear witliout scalding. You wall at last increase the MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 12b fire and bring the liquor to a scalding heat for a few minutes, tlien allow it to boil gently for 2 or 3 minutes. It is dien to be taken out, cooled, ^n'ung and dried. DIRECTION VI. Black on Cotton. To dye 5 poimds of yam, it will requhe 2| pounds of logwood, 1| pounds of sumac, I peck of stone lime, 1 pound 8 ounces copperas, 12 ounces of fustic, and 4 ounces hog’s lard. Use tlie same pro}x>rtions to dye any number of pounds. The yam is to be boiled out a day before hand but not rinsed. If you want an excellent black, dye tlie yarn pale blue first in the indigo dye. 1. A day before you color black, prepare a half bar- rel tub, into which you will put half a peck of stone lime ; slack it with water to a powder, then fill it up with water and stir it two or three times during the day, and the next morning it will be settled clear, and ready for use. 2. Dissolve in a small kettle one pound and a half of copperas, with 6 quarts of warm water, stir it to make it dissolve faster, and \vhen you use it mix it together and skim it. 3. In tlie next place prepar<=‘ an iron whh about 13 gallons or 5 pails fuli of v/ater, a^ d add to it two pounds and a half of logv. ood chips, and one pound and a half of the shoots and leaves of sumac, which must be dried and cut up or ground, then boiled for 2 hours. N X26 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 4. You must now prepare 3 tubs or kettles, one to be used for the logwood and sumac liquor, one for copper- as liquor and one for lime water. Put into the first tub or kettle 8 gallons of clear logwood liquor ; in the se- cond about 7 gallons of scalding hot water and 1 gal- lon of the prepared copperas liquor, ajid in the third tub or kettle 8 gallons . of clear cold lime water, of which you must be careful to use only the clear part, and not disturb the sediment. 1. Place the yam on five sticks having a pound on a stick, then dip it in the first tub or kettle, containing the logwood liquor which you prepared first, the liquor being as warm as the hand can be borne in it ; then turn the yam one pound at a time for about half an hour : it is then to be taken out, wrung and aired. 2. In the next place dip it in the second tub or ket- tle, containing the copperas liqour, in the same manner as before, for about 15 minutes, then wring and air it. 3. Now dip and turn it in the lime water for about five minutes, it is then to be taken out, rinsed and wrung. 4. You must now throw away half of the logwood liquor which you have dipped in, and then put in the remainder of the fresh logwood and sumac liquor, ta- king only the -clear part of it. This liquor’ should be nearly boiling, so that by adding it to tl^e other it .will make tlie whole of a suitable warmtli. 5. Now add to the copperas iiquor the remainder of the copperas water., being two quarts that was left. '6. The lime water which you have dipped in must be emptied entirely away ; then put in 8 gallons of the clear lime water, as before. 7. Now dip and turn the yarn in the logwood liquor for half an hour ; then wring and air it MANUFACTUHER-S ASSISTANT. 127 8. Next in the copperas liquor for about 15 minutes, then wring and air it. 9. Next in the lime water for 5 minutes then rinse and air it. 10. You will now prepare a kettle and put in about 8 gallons of water, and add to it 12 ounces of fustic chips, boil it for about three quarters of an hour, then pom or strain off the liquor, and when very hot add to it 4 ounces of hog’s lard ; mix it well together and dip the black yam for 10 minutes : it is then to be uTung and and dried without rinsing. Should your yam not be dyed pale blue first, you must dip it 3 different times through tlie logwood, copperas and lime-'water, instead of twice, as has been directed. N. B. Garments of calico, muslin, cotton stockings, shawls, &CC. can be dyed by following the above direc- tions ; observing not to have more articles than the li- quor of each kind will cover : they must be stirred about in the dye for the same period of time as has been mentioned for yam. . These kind of cotton articles can also be dyed of any other color which shall be mentioned in the course of dyeing cotton yam. DIRECTION VII. Another Black on Cotton. For one pound of yam it will require 8 ounces of sumac, 6 ounces of copperas, \ an ounce of blue vitriol, 8 ounces of logwood, 2 ounces of fustic. Use the same proportions for any number of pounds. 128 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 1. Prepare and boil out the yarn a day before hand, | as directed in the first remarks on boiling yam. It is I then to be wrung’ and shaken out; which must be done ; only a short time before you begin to dip the yam : it ; is then to be dyed a pale blue in the indigo dye and I then rinsed. 2. Prepare a kettle with about 3 gallons of water, and add to it 8 ounces of dry sumac shoots and leaves which are dry and cut up fine ; boil it one hour, adding a little water as the rest boils away : then sti'ain off the liquor into another kettle. When the liquor has cooled so as to admit the hand ^\dthout scalding, then dip and turn the yam in it for about half an hour ; tlie yam is then to be sunk under the liquor to remain over night. The next morning take it out and tvring it. 2. In the next place prepare a kettle with about 5 quarts of warm water, dissolve in it 5 ounces of cop- peras ; stir it together, then dip and turn your yarn on a stick for about one hour ; it is then to be taken out and Avrung; then add to the copperas liquor one ounce more of copperas, and half an ounce of blue vitriol, dissolved in a little hot Avater before it is added to the copperas liquor, then dip and turn the yai'n for about | half an hour : it is then to be taken out, rinsed and ; AATUng. 4. Prepare a kettle Avith about 4 gallons of Avater, and add to it 8 ounces of logAA^ood chips, and 2 ounces of fustic chips, cut fine, Avhich are to be put in a thin I coarse bag and boiled about one hour and a half ; then | take out the bag, and Avhen the Ii(|uor has cooled a little, ' so that you can just endure the hand in, dip and turn the yam in it one hour. It is then to be taken out t^d aired ; then rinsed, wrung and dried. N. B. While speaking of Irlack on cotton it will not be improper to remark that an improvement has been '• made in dyeing black on linen thread, Avhich is by put- ^ ting a little talioAv or other fresh grease in the hot dye, , MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 129 a little before the yam is finished, which not only ren- ders the yarn or thread soft, but preserves its strength. As the dyeing of black on linen is so simple and well known, we do not insert the manner of dyeing it. The main point in dyeing a good black on linen, is to have the logwood dye very strong, and plenty of copperas added after all the strength is boiled out of the log- wood then dip the tliread. DIRECTION VIII. To Dye Green on Cotton. For 2 pounds of yam it will require 2 pounds 12 ounces of fustic, 6 ounces of logwood, 1 ounce and a half of blue vitriol. Use the same proportions to dye any number of pounds. The yam is to be boiled out a day before hand, then dyed a handsome light pale blue, and rinsed well. 1. Fill a kettle with about 8 gallons of water, add to it 2 pounds and 12 ounces of fustic chips, boil it a- bout 1 hour and a half, adding as much water as what boils an ay. 2. Boil in another kettle with one gallon of water, 6 ounces of logwood chips for one hour, adding as much water as what boils away ; and when }'OU use it take the clear part only. 1. Prepare a kettle with about 3 gallons of tlie clear fustic liquor, which must be as warm as the hand will bear. After the yam is wrung and equall}' moist, place it on two sticks and dip it in the dye, rest- N 2 1 150 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. ing the sticks on the top of the tub or kettle ; turn the yarn continually for about half an hour, then take it out, wring and air it, and throw away the liquor. 2. In the next place put in the same kettle, two and a half gallons of fresh fustic liquor which is clear, | and also about 3 quarts of clear logwood liquor, as | warm as before mentioned; then dip and turn the yam as before for about half an hour ; it is then to be taken out, wrung and aired, and the liquor emptied away. 3. Now put in the kettle the remainder of the warm and clear fustic liquor, then add to it one ounce and a half of blue vitriol, dissolved in a little warm wa- ter before you put it in the dye : then dip and turn the yam as before for about half an hour : it is then to be taken out and \vmng, but not rinsed ; then dried in the shade. Should the color incline too much on the blue shade, use rather less of the logwood liquor, and if it bears too much on the yellow take a little less blue vitriol, and more of the logwood dye. N. B. Instead of using fustic you may take yellow oak bark or walnut bark. See Direction IV. DIRECTION IX. To Dye Red on CottoUi For 2 pounds of yam it will require 1 poimd 4 ounces of sumac, 8 ounces of allum, I of an ounce of pearlash, I of an ounce of sugar of lead, 3 pounds of nicaragua and ■? 1 table spoonful of compound of aqua- *. fortis. Use the same proportions to dye any number of pounds. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 13 ?.' The yam is to be boiled out a day before hand, then rinsed and wrung. 1. Prepare a brass or copper kettle with about 3 gal- lons of water, then add to it 1 pound and 4 ounces of sumac, the shoots and leaves being dryed and cut up fine. Boil it for half an hour, then strain off the liquor into a brass, tin or copper kettle ; then tlirow out the sumac, and put the liquor back again. 2. Place your yam on two sticks, being previously shook out, and when the liquor has cooled so thal you can just endure the hand in it, dip and turn the yam for half an hour ; it is then to be wrung out and put in again, sinking it enthely under the liquor, and let it remain over night. Next morning it is^to be taken out wmng and dried in the shade. 3. In the next place, prepare a brass, tin, or copper kettle Avith about 3 gallpns of hot water, then dissolve in it 8 ounces of allum, three quarters of an ounce of pearlash, and three quarters of an ounce of sugar of lead. When it is entirely dissolved and the liquor cooled so that you can bear the hand in it, enter your yam on the sticks, and turn it for about half an hour : it is then to be sunk entirely under the liquor, to remain: over night. The next morning take it out, rince light- ly and wring it. Dyeing. 1. Prepare a brass or copper kettle with about 10 gal- lons of water, add to it 3 pounds of nicaragua chips. Boil for about one hour and a half, then let the chips settle at the bottom — about two and a half gallons of the clear liquor is now to be taken out and put in anoth- er clean brass or copper kettle. 2. Now place your yam on the sticks, and when the dye is Avarm as you can endure the hand in it, then 132 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. dip and turn the yarn in it for about half an hour ; it is then to be taken out and wrung, and the liquor emptied i awayi 3. About two and a half gallons more of the fresh j and clear dye liquor is now to be put in the kettle, be- ' ing as warm as before directed ; then dip and turn the I yam in it for about half an hour, then wring it out. 4. You must now empty half of the liquor away which has just been used, then put in some fresh scald- ing hot dye liquor, to make as much of the whole as you had before, and of the same warmth at the time of dipping. The yam is now to be dipped and turned again as before, for about half an hour ; it is then to be taken out and wrung. The yam at this time will probably be of a dark red color, but if not, empty out half of the liquor and fill up witli clear hot dye liquor as before ; then dip again, wring, and empty away the liquor. 5. The kettle is now to be rinsed, then put in about 3 gallons of clear water, which is not to be made warm ; then add to it a table spoonful of the compound of aqua fortis. Wlien you have mixed the compound ^vell wdth the water, one of the colored skeins is to be dipped in it for 3 or 4 minutes ; should it produce a bright red color, you may put in all your yarn for about 10 minutes, then wring it out. Should the skein which you tried not have changed its appearance, in that case you will add a trifle more of tlie compound until the color is effected to your wishes. 6. Now put in your tub or kettle, about 2| gallons of nicaragua liquor as warm as has been before direc- ted, then dip and turn the yam in it for about half an hour. It is then to be wrung and dried without rin- sing. Method of making the Compound of Aqua- Fortis. Take a junk or glass bottle and put in it 4 ounces of aqua-fortis and as much rain or soft river w'ater — w'hen MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. ISS you have mixed it together add to it | of an ounce of salamoniac, pounded fine, then mix it well together : af- ter \\iiich, is also to be added, § an ounce of grained tin, which is conducted in the following manner. First melt the block tin over a fire, then pour it a dis- tance from above, of about 4 or 5 feet, gradually into a bason of cold water ; by tliis means you will find the tin formed into light and fine pieces, and is then ready for dissolving in the aqua-fortis. You will then put one piece into the bottle at a time, letting one piece dissolve before another is added. When it is all dissolved, let it stand for a day or two. After that space of time the liquor will be clear, of an amber color, and fit for use. Keep the bottle well stopped, v ith a wax or glass stop- per, and it will keep good several months. When you use it, take the clear part only. DIRECTION X. Orange color on Cotton. To dye 5 jxiunds of yam it will require 4 ounces of Anatto or Otter, and 8 ounces of Pearlash. Use the same proportions to dye any number of pounds. The yam is to be boiled out before hand as usual, ancl wTung, but not not rinsed. *1. Prepare a brass or copper kettle with about eight gallons of clean water, then add to it eight ounces of anatto which must be cut up fine, and eight ounces of pearlash ; boil it for one hour, then put the liquor into a clean tub or kettle to settle a few^ hours or until you w ant it for use. 2. Take about 6 gallons of the clear anatto liquor, put it in a brass kettle and heat it scalding hot by keep- mg it at the side of a fire, then place your yam on five 134 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. sticks, and dip and turn it for twenty minutes; it is then ll to be taken out and wrung. j 3. In the next place add about half a gallon of fresh i clear anatto liquor to the rest in the kettle, keeping the il dye nearly scaldmg hot; then dip and turn the yam for \ about twenty minutes ; it is then to be taken out and wrung, then rinced, wrung, and dried in the shade. N. B. In dyeing orange, TOCO is often used instead of anatto as it comes ^ a much less price. If you choose to make use of roco, you must take about double the quantity, that is, for five pounds of yam it will require eight ounces of roco,, and ten ounces of’ psarlash. DIRECTION XI. To Dye Madder Red on Cotton, For 2 pounds of yarn it will require 1 pound 4 ounces of sumac, 8 ounces of pearlash, 3 ounces of stone lime, 8 ounces of allum^ 1 of an ounce of salamoniac, 2 ounces of hog’s lard, 2 noimds of madder, 2 ounces of chalk, 1 pound 8 ounces of wheat bran, , 3 ounces of hard soap. Use the same proportions to dye any number of pounds. The yam is to be boiled out before hand, then rinsed and wrung. First prepare a brass or copper kettle with 3 gallons of clean water, then add to it one pound four ounces of dried sumac, (the shoots and leaves being cut up fine together,) boil it for about half an hour, and strain off the clear part into a clean tub or brass kettle. When MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 43 ® the liquor has cooled so you can bear the hand in it, place the yam upon two sticks, snd dip and turn it for about half an hour ; the yam is then to be sunk under the liquor, to remain over night: next morning it is to be taken out, uTung, and dryed in the shade. 2. In the next place prepare a kettle with about one gallon and a half of hot Avater, then dissolve in it eight ounces of pearlash, and add three ounces of slacked lime; stir it well together and let it settle for two hours. 3. Now place a kettle over a lire with about one gal- lon of Avater ; when it has amved at a scalding beat, add 8 ounces of allum, and the clear part of the lime and pearlash liquor — also add to it | of an ounce of salamoniac, (which is pounded and dissolved in a little hot Avater before hand) then mix them all together, and while the liquor is still quite hot, then also add 2 oun- ces of lard, and mix the whole well together. 4. The yam is then to be placed on the sticks, and when the liquor has cooled so the hand can be borne in it, then dip and turn the yam about half an hour ; it is then to be taken out, Avrung, and dried in the shade, then rinsed well and again dried. 5. Heat the same liquor again, and dip and turn the yarn for about half an hour ; it is then to be Avrung and dried in the shade, then rinsed, Avrung, shook out, and put on the stacks. Dyeing. 1. Prepare a brass or copper “kettle AA'ith about ten gallons of clean soft aa ater, then add to it, Avhen the wa- ter is cold, tAA O pounds of madder broken up fine, and tAVo ounces of pounded chalk. In dyeing on this small scale, it Avill be found necessary to place the kettle at tlAe side of a fire, to alloAv you to turn the yam on the sticks. 1S6 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 2. You will now place the yam on die sticks, and Ai'hen the madder liquor is of a blood warmth, put in the yam and turn it constantly, having the heat of the ; dye increase moderately by keeping only a gentle fire, 'j When the dye has become so warm as you can just endure the hand in it, then allow it to get no hotter for ! two hours, turning the yam during that time. You ' will then increase the heat to a scald for five mmutes, c having a jiail of cold water standing by to dip your . hands in often, u hile turning the yarn ; it is then to be , taken out, cooled, and rinsed. i 3. Now rinse the kettle, put in about ten gallons of: w ater, and add to it two quarts of wheat bran m a clean ; : bag, and t\\ o ounces of hard soap cut up in tliin pieces. : Bring the liquor to a boil, then put in the yam and let: it boil for half an hour ; it is then to be taken out, cool- ' ed, and rinsed, then wrung, and dried in the shade. DIRECTION XII. MojMer Red on Cotton, as practiced in France. To dye one pound of yam it will require | 10 ounces of sumac, 4 ounces of allum, 1 pound of madder, 2 ounces of pearlash, 1 ounce of lime and, 12 ounces of w’heat bran. Use the same proportions to dye any number of pounds. 1. Prepare and boil out your yam the day before^ you color, and in the same manner, as you will find | stated in the first remarks. It is afterw ards to be rin- , sed, wning, and shaken out, a short time before you ^ beo-in to dip the yam. 2. In the next jilace prepare a brass or copper kettle witJi about two and a half gallons of w ater ; then add ! MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. isr tcKit, 10 ounces of sumac leaves and shoots, which ! should be cut in the month of August or September, II and then dryed and cut up line before used. Boil it ' for about half an hour, then strain the clear liquor off, ! throw a^vay the sumac and put ihe liquor back again, j 3. When the liquor has cooled, to a little less than a ' scalding heat ; then place the yarn on a stick and dip and turn it about half an hour; then sink it entirely un- der die liquor, and let it remain over night. Next mor- ning nTing it out moderately, and dry it; then emp- j ty away die liquor. 4. Prepare the kettle widi about 5 quarts of hot wa- ter and dissolve in it 4 ounces of allura ; then dip and turn the yam as before, for about half an hour; then sink it entirely mider the liquor and let it remain over night. Nejit morning n ring it moderately and dry it. Dyeing. 1. Prepare a brass or copper kettle, with about five ■or six gallons of u ater ; dien add to it 8 oimces of good madder, broken up fine. When the liquor has become a little more than blood warm, place the yam on a stick, then turn it continually for one hour, keeping the liquor the whole time no warmer than you can bear the hand in it. The last part of the time, allow it to be towards scalding hot ; the yam is then to be taken out, WTungand aired-. 2. In the next place, dissolve 2 ounces of pearlash in a pint of water, and add to it half a pint of clear lime water, made from about an ounce of slacked stone lime, which is to be mixed before hand in cold water, and then left to settle clear. Now put the above mix- ture of pearlash and clear lime vrater into the madder dye and stir it well togetlier. When the madder dye is at a little less tlian a scalding heat, enter the yam by sinking it entirely under the liquor, and bring it to boil for 5 minutes ; it is then to be taken out and cooled ; then rinsed and t\Timg. o 138 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 3. The madder dye is now to be emptied away ; then put in about 5 gallons of water, and add 8 oun- ces more of madder, broken up fine. You will then proceed in the same manner and time as before ; but without adding any pearlash or lime water,-observing to keep the dye something less than a scalding heat, for 1 hour, turning the yam continually during that time. It is then to be taken out and wnmg, then tlirow away the dye. 4. To brighten the color, prepare the kettle with a- bout 5 gallons of water and put into it 12 ounces of wheat bran (preAUously put into a clean bag) and one oimce of hard soap cut up fine and dissolved. Bring the water to a boil, then enter tlie yarn and boil it for half an hour. It is then to be taken out, cooled and rinsed ; then wrung and dried in the shade. DIRECTION XIII. To Di/e Purple on Cotton. For 2 pounds of yam, it will require 1 pound 4 ovmces of sumac, 1 pound 4 ounces of logwood, 1 ounce of alliim, I of an ounce of verdigris. Use the same proportions to dye any number of pounds. 1. Boil out the yam the day before hand as usual, and after the same method, as you will find directed in the first remarks. Afterwards it is to be u mng, shook out and put on sticks, a short time before you dip the yam. 2. In the next place pi epare an iron, brass or copper kettle, with about 4 gallons of w ater ; then add to it 1 pound 4 ounces of sumac shoots and leaves cut upline ; which is to boil for about half an hour.; tlien sti*ain off' MANUFACTURER'S ASSISTANT. 139 the liquor, throw away tlie sumac and put the liquor back a^aiii. 3. When tlie liquor has cooled to a little less than a . scalding heat, dip your yam and turn it on the sticks I for about half an hour ; then sink it enthely under the liquor and let it remain over night. Next morning it is to be taken out and wrung, then empty away the liquor. 4. Now prepare a kettle with about 7 gallons of wa- t ter ; then add to it 1 pound and 4 ounces of log^\ ood i chips, which is to be boiled for about one hour : then let it stop boiling, and allow tlie chips to settle’ at tlie bottom. 5. Three gallons of the clear logwood liquor is now to be put into another kettle, and n hen the liquor has ! cooled so as to admit the hand without scalding, place the yam on two sticks and dip and turn it for about £0 minutes : it is then to be taken out, wrung and aired, j 6. Take about a pint of hot water and dissolve in it tivo thirds of the alluni mentioned at first ; also one ' quarter of an ounce of pounded verdigris. When it is entirely dissolved, pour it into the logwood liquor, which , you dipped in last ; then mix it together and dip and ; turn the yam again as before, for about 20 minutes ; it is then to be taken out wTung and awed. 7. Now add 2 or 3 quarts of very hot logwood li- j quor, taken out clear from the other kettle ; then dip ! and turn the yam again for 20 minutes ; then wring it j out and empty aw^ay the liquor. 8. Put into your kettle the remainder of the logwood j liquor, which must be as warm as the hand can bear, while dipping the yam : in this liquor dissolve the re- mainder of the allum, being one third of an ounce ; then dip and turn the yam as before for about 20 min- utes ; it is then to be taken out, wrung and dried. 140 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. DIRECTION XIV. Drab Color on Cotton. To dye 5 pounds of yam, it will require 10 ounces of allum, 10 ounces of copperas, 10 ounces of fustic, 10 ounces of sumac. Use tlie same proportions to dye any number of pounds. 1. Boil out the yam a day before you wish to color, and in the same manner as pointed out in the remarks on preparing and boiling : it is to be rinsed and wrung a short tim.e before you dip it. 2. Prepare an iron, brass or copper kettle, with about 6 gallons of water ; bring it nearly to a scalding heat ; then dissolve 10 ounces of allum and 10 ounces of cop- peras, ill about 1 gallon and a half of hot water, and add it to the water in the kettle, and mix it well. 3. Place your yarn on 5 sticks, and when the liquor is as warm as you bear the hand in it, dip and timi the yam for about half an hour : it is then to be taken out and wrung. 4. The liquor which you have used is now to be emp- tied away ; then prepare the kettle with about 8 gallons of water, add to it 10 ounces of fustic chips, and ten Ounces of sumac shoots and leaves, whicli are to be dryed and cut up fine. Both of these articles are to be put into a thin coarse bag and boiled for about three quarters of an hour ; otherwise you can boil the fustic and sumac without putting them in a bag, but in that case you must strain the liquor. 5. When the liquor has cooled, so that you can just endure the hand in it, then dip and turn the yam on the sticks for half an hour. It is then to be u rung o ut and dried without rinsing. You can give it different shades, by adding more or Mx\NUFACTURER’S ASSISTAJ^T. 141 less fustic and sumac : or by adding a small pioportion of logwood liquor. DIRECTION XV. To Dye a Reddish Brcavn on Cotton. For 5 pounds of yam it will require 2 pounds 8 ounces of fustic, 1 pound of nicaragua, 1 pound of logwood, 8 ounces of copperas, I of a gill of aqua fortis compound. Use the same proportions to dye any number pounds. 1. Boil out the yam the day before you wish to col- or, in the same manner as directed in the first remarks on boiling yam ; it is tlien to be wrung out a short time before you begin to dip the yam. 2. Prepare an iron, brass or copper kettle, with about 8 gallons of "water: then add to it 2 pounds 8 ounces of fustic chips, put in a thin coarse bag ; and boiled for about three quarters of an hour. You can boil the fustic loose in the kettle if you wish ; but in tliat case, the liquor must be strained or taken oft clear before you dip the yam in it. 3. In the next place, dissolve eight ounces of cop- peras in about one gallon of warm water, and add it to tlie fustic liquor : then stir it well together and sufter the liquor to cool a little, so that you can just endure the hand in it while dipping. 4. Place the yam on 5 sticks, then dip and turn it for about half an hour. It is then to be wrung out and the liquor emptied away. 5. Prepare the kettle with about 8 gallons of water, then add to it 1 pound of nicaragua, arid 1 pound of logwood, both chipped and put into a thin coarse bag and boiled about Aree quarters of an hour. Now- o % 142 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. take the bag out, and add to the liquor a quarter of a gill of aqua fortis compound : then stir the w hole well together, and suffer the liquor to cool a little, so that the hand can just be endured in it while dipping. 6. Dip and turn the yam again for about fifteen min- utes : it is then to be taken out, rinsed, wrung and dried. DIRECTION XVI. To Dye Logwood Blue on Cotton. For 5 poimds of yam it w ill require 6 ounces of blue vitriol, 2 pounds 8 ounces of logwood. Use the same proportions for any number of pounds. 1. Boil out the yam a day previous to coloring, and in the same manner as pointed out in the remarks on boiling yam ; after w^hich it must be wrung, a short time before you dip it. 2. Prepare an iron, brass or copper kettle with about eight gallons of water, bring it nearly to a scalding heat, then dissolve in it six ounces of blue vitriol. 3. Place the yam on five sticks, then dip and turn it for about one hour : it is then to be taken out and WTung, and the liquor which you have just dipped in is to be emptied away. 4. Prepare the kettle wdth about 8 gallons of w^ater,, and add to it, two pounds eight ounces of logwood chips, which is to be put in a tliin coarse bag and boil- ed for about three quarters of an hour ; then take out the bag and let the liquor cool so that the hand may be borne in it ; then dip and turn the yam in it for about half an hour. It is then to be taken out and wrung. 5. In the next place, dissolve in the liquor you have just dipped in, 2 ounces of pearlash;' then dip and uim the yam again for 20 minutes, It is then to be MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 143 taken out and wrung. Should you ’wish the color darker, add one ounce of blue vitiiol to tlie liquor ; and \Vhen dissolved, dip again for 10 minutes. It is then to be wrung and dried without rinsing. DIRECTION XVIL Olive Color on Cotton. To dye 2 pounds of yarn it will require 8 ounces of fustic, 6 ounces of pearlash, 2 ounces of logwood, I an ounce of verdigris. Use the same proportions to dye any number of pounds. 1. Boil out the yam a day before hand, and after the same manner as you will find stated in the remarks on preparing and boiling yam. It is then to be \ming a short time before you commence dipping. 2. Prepare an iron, brass or copper kettle, with about 3 gallons of Avater, add to it eight ounces of fustic chips, put it in a tliin coarse bag, boil it for about three quarters of an hour ; you will then dissolve in the hot liquor 6 ounces of pearlash : also add to it, two quarts of clear logAvood liquor, made from 2 ounces of log- wood. Then add half an ounce of verdigris, pound- ed fine, which must be well dissolved before hand in a small quantity of the logwood liquor ; then stir the whole well together. 1. When the liquor has cooled, so you can bear the hand in it, place your yam on 2 sticks, and dip and turn it in the dye for about half an hour, then wring and air it. 2. Should you Avish tlie color darker, then add a lit- tle more logwood liquor to tlie rest, then dip and tiun 144 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. the yam again for about fifteen minutes, it is then to be wrung out and aired. For a very dark olive, you will prepare a kettle with a suitable cjuantity of water, and add to it three ounces of copperas, dissolved before hand in a little water, then enter your jam and turn it for about 4 or 5 minutes ; it is then to be rinsed, wrung and dipped again in the fustic and logwood liquor for 10 minutes ;then rinsed, wrung and di'ied. DIRECTION XVIII. Olive on Cotton, with a Blue Ground. To dye 2 pounds of yarn it will require 8 ounces of sumac, 3 ounces of copperas, 8 ounces of fustic, \ an ounce of verdigris, 1 ounce and a half of blue vitriol. Use the same proportions to dye any number of pounds. 1. Boil out the yam and afterwards dye it a light blue in the indigo dye ; it is then to be rinsed, and wrung a short time before dipping. 2. Prepare an iron, brass or copper kettle, with about 3 gallons of w’ater ; then add to it 8 ounces of sumac shoots and leaves cut up fine. Boil it for three quar- ters of an hour, then strain the liquor or pour off the clear part, and suffer it to cool so that you can en- dure the hand in it while dipping. 3. Place the yam on two sticks, and dip and turn it for about half an hour ; then sink the yam entirely un- der the liquor and let it remain over night ; next mor- ning it is to be taken out and wTung : then empty a- way the liquor. 4. Prepare the kettle with about 3 gallons of water, then dissolve in it 2 ounces of copperas ; you will tlten MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 145 dip and turn the yam in it for about 15 miiuites ; it is then to be rinsed and uTung. 5 ' In the next place, empty away the copperas liquor and put in the kettle about 3 gallons of water ; then add 8 ounces of fustic chips, which are to be put in a tliin coarse bag and boiled three quarters of an hour ; vou will tlien take out the bas; and add half an ounce of verdigris, pounded fine and dissolved in a little of the hot fustic liquor beforehand, then stir the whole well together. ' Wlien tlie liquor has cooled so tliat the hand can be borne in it ; then dip and turn the yam in the dye for about half an hour. It is then to be taken out and wrung. 6. Add to the liquor which j^ou have just dipped in one ounce and a half of blue vitriol, w’hich must be pounded and dissolved m a little of the hot liquor be- fore hand, then dip and turn your yam for 10 minutes. Should you not find the color dark enough, add some logwood liquor and copperas to the remaining liquor ; tlien dip and turn again for about ten minutes ; and rinse, wring and dry it. DIRECTION XIX. Cinnamon Color on Cotton, To dye 1 pound of yom it wall require 4 ounces of allum, \ an ounce of blue vitriol, 8 ounces of fustic, 4 ounces of sumac, 8 ounces of madder. Use the same proportions to dye any number of poun ds. 1. Boil out the yam a day before coloring it, and af- ter the manner you will find directed in the remarks on boiling, it is then to be rinsed and wTung. 146 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 2. Prepare a kettle m ith about 6 c/liarts of water, ’ and dissolve in it 2 ounces of allum and half an ounce j of blue vitriol ; heat tlie water as warm as the hand | M ill bear, tlien place the yam on a stick and dip and i turn it in the liquor for about half an hour : it is then to ; be taken out and ^vriing. 3. In the next place, add 8 oimces of fustic chips to ' the allum liquor . The fustic chips are to be put in a bag and boiled for about one hour, in the mean time adding about 2 quarts of water. The bag is then to be taken out, and the liquor suf- fered to cool to a little less than a scalding heat ; then dip and turn the yam for about one hour : it is then to be uTung out and aired. Add to the liquor you have last dipped in, 2 ounces of allum, (dissolved in a little hot water before hand) the. yarn is to be dipped and turned in the liquor ag-ain for half an hour ; next uTung out and aired. 4. Prejiare a brass or copper kettle with about 5 gal- lons of clear water, then add to it 8 ounces of madder,, broken up fine, and 4 ounces of the shoots and leaves of sumac, which last must be cut up fine and put into a thin coarse bag ; heat the liquor slowly over a mode- rate fire ; when it is little more than blood warm put your yarn on a stick and dip and turn it for 1 hour: du- ring which time the dye must be at a little less than a scalding heat. The yam is now to be taken out, wrimg and aired. Should you wish to brighten the color, you will next rinse out the kettle and put in as much water as will co- ver the yam ; then add to it one ounce of soap, cut up fine; bring the liquor to boil, then enter the yarn under the liquor and boil it about half an hour ; it is then to be taken out, cooled, rinsed, wrung and dried. MANUFACTURER’S ASSIST.ANT. 147 DIRECTION XX. Broivn on Cotton. To dye 5 pounds of yam it will require 2 poiuids 8 ounces of fustic, 2 pounds of logwood, 4 ounces of blue vitriol, 8 ounces of copperas. Use the same proportions to dye any number of poimds. 1. Boil out tlie yam a day previous to coloring, and after the manner directed in the first remarks on boiling. Afterguards it is to be rinsed and uTung a short tirne before you commence coloring it 2. Prepai-e a kettle with about 8 gallons of water, and add to it 2 pounds 8 ounces of fustic chips, which are to be put into a thin coarse bag and boiled about 1 hour. Take out the bag and add to the liquor 8 oun- ces of copperas, (dissoK ed before hand in about a gal- lon of warm ater,) siii- it well together, and when the liquor has coorled so as to allow the hand to be borne in it is ready for dipping. 3. Place the yarn on 5 sticks and dijr and turn it half an hour ; then take it out, wring it and empty away tlie liquor which you have just used. 4. Prepare the kettle ao-ain n ith about 8 gallons of water, and add to it 2 pounds of logu'ood chips put in- to a coarse bag and boil it about tiiree quarters of an hour ^ tlien take out the bag and dissolve in tlie liquor , 4 ounces of blue viti'iol. Allow the liquor to cool so much that you can endure the hand in it without scald- ing-: then place the yam on sticks and dip and turn it for half an hour it is then to be WTung out, rinsed and dried. 148 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. DIRECTION XXL Slate Color on Cotton. For 2 pounds of yai*n it will require 5 ounces of copperas, and 1 pound of sumac. Use the same proportions to dye any number of pounds. 1. Boil out the yarn a day before coloring it, and in tlie same manner as directed in the hrst remarks on pre- paj'ing yam for dyeing. It is to be wrung out a short time before you begin dipping it. 2. Prepare a kettle tvith about 3 gallons of warm water ; add to it 5 ounces of copperas and when it is perfectl)^ dissolved place your yarn on 2 sticks, then dip and turn it in the liquor for about haJf an hour : it is then to be taken out and tvruns:. 3. In the next place prepai'e another kettle with a- bout 3 gallons of water, and add to it 1 pound of tlie shoots and lea\ es of sumac, dried and cut up fine. — Boll it for about half an hour, tlien strain olF the clear part of the liquor, throw away the sumac, and pom* it back agaui into the kettle. 4. After the licpior has cooled so that you can bear the hand in it, then place the yarn on the sticks, and dip and turn it for abov’t half an hour; then wring.it out and a ir it. If the color is hot dark as you \\ ish, dip agabi in the copperas liquor for 10 minutes, then lastl}q in the sumic liquor for 15 minutes; then wring and dry Avitliout rinsing. DIRECTION XXII. Slate Color on Cotton. To dye 2 pounds of yam it w ill require 3 ounces of nutgalls, MANUFACTURER'S ASSISTANT. 149 I an ounce of allum, - 3 oiuices of copperas, 6 ounces of logwood. Use the same proportions to dye an}' number of pounds. 1. Boil out the yarn the day before coloring it, and in the same manner as directed in the first remarks on preparing yam for dyeing. After it is boiled, rinse and wring it out a short time before you commence dip- ping. 2. Prepare a kettle with about three gallons of water, and add to it 3 ounces of nutgalls, pounded fine ; boil for half an hour, then let the galls settle at the bottom and take the clear part of the liquor olf into another kettle or tub : otherwise you may strain it. 3. When the liquor has cooled so that you can bear the hand in it ; place the yam on the sticks and dip and turn it in the liquor for about half an hour : it is then to be taken out and wrung. 4. Empty away the gall liquor and prepare the ket- tle with about 3 gallons of w'ater ; then add to it 6 oun- ces of logwood chips, which are to be put into a bag and boiled about | of an hour, then take out the bag and add half an ounce of allum. Wdien the allum is entirely dissolved, and the liquor cooled so tha' you can endure the hand in it, clip aiid turn the yam for 20 minutes. It is then to be wrung out and aired, aiid the allum liquor emptied away. 5. Next put about 2 gallons of cold water into the kettle, and dissolve in it 3 ounces of copperas ; then dip and turn the yam in the liquor for 10 minutes ; then rinse, tvring and diy' it. DIRECTION XXIII. Brown on Cotton. To dye 5 pounds of yam it will require 4 ounces of pearlash, p MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. ISO 1 pound of copperas, 1 bushel of maple or white oak bark. Use the same proportions to dye any number of pounds. 1. Boil out the yam a day before coloring, as usual. 2. Prepare a kettle with about 8 gallons of water, bring it nearly to a scalding heat, then add 4 ounces of pearlash. When it is dissolved, place your yam on 5 .sticks and dip and turn it in the liquor for half an hour. It is then to be taken out and wrung, and the pearlash liquor emptied out. 3. In the next place, prepare a kettle with about 5 or 6 pails of u ater, and put in 1 bushel of maple bark, or instead, take the same quantity of white oak bai k. — Boil it 2 hours, adding a little water occasionally ; then take out the bark and strain the liquor. 4. When the liquor is about scalding hot, add one pound of copperas, and stir it round until it is all dissol- ved. You will now suffer the liquor to cool a little, then dip and turn the yarn on the sticks for about 15 minutes : it is then to be uTung out and aired. Dip and turn again for 15 minutes, and then wTing it out : so j^roceed for 1 hour. It is then to be rinsed, wrung and diied. Scoii'i'ing Woollen Cloth from the Loom. Flannel is generall)" w^ove in the grease in factories, W'hich method is preferred to scouring the yarn befoi e w^eaving ; not only from its being more convenient, but it has a tendency to produce closer cloth and is less lia- ble to break than yam wove in a dry state. When the cloth is wove and taken from the loom, it should be carefully and thoroughly trimmed, by taking from it all the knots, double threads and loose ends ; it is then ready for scouring, which is done in the follow- ing manner, viz : For a stock of clotli of 60 jxiunds MANUFACTUllEirS ASSISTANT. 151 •weight, or 70 yards of flannel 1 yard wide, take 6 gal- i Jons of old urine and 6 gallons of soft soap ; mix them well together in 6 gallons of hot water; when the li- quor is as warm as you can bear the hand in it, spread the flannel on the floor, and v.-et it equally ; then enter j the cloth in the fulling mill, and let it operate about uf- ■ teen minutes. It is then to be taken out and laid open, ■: to discover if any parts are dry; if so, wet those places " with the same kind of liquor as before. The cloth is now to be laid in the mill again, v, hich should run nearly half an hour ; you may then discover whetlrer the grease is sufliciently iwised, by wringing a small place in the cloth very hard ; should the grease come out easy and ■ free, it is scoured enough. You will then pour into the i mil! slowly, 4 or 5 pails full of warm water, and after it* ] has produced a lather, then admit cold water to run 1 through it for a few minutes, or until the filth and grease i is well washed out. Should the cloth turn irregularly, ' handle it over and put it in the mill again until it is rinsed clean. It must then be taken out and dryed for the j next process or fulling. It will not be improper to otjserve tiiat the mill with fallers will start the gi'ease better than the crank mill, but tire latter is the best for washing ; on the whole, the crank mill is to be preferred \vhere only one is used for both purposes. It is of the utmost importance that cloth should be entirely cleansed from grease ; for should any remain, it would prevent its receiving and retaining a bright and permanent color ; besides such clothsalways crock, and will not admit of being finished in a workman-like manner. Another Method to Scour Woollen Cloth from the luoom. To 1 ban'el of urine add 1 bushel of hog dung, mix it well, then use enough of the clear liquor to wet the doth. After it is equally wet let it run in the mill for 352 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. live minutes, then take it out, handle it over, and after- wards pack it together in a warm place until it heats through ; then lay it in the mill and put on a pail full of urine, let it run 10 minutes, then take it out and handle it until cool. You will then lay it in again and permit cold 'water to run through it for half an hour, handling once in that time — then dry it for fulling. Fulling. — This braiich of business, like other aits, requires a strict attention to succeed well. For a stock of cloth of about 60 pounds weight, or 70 }'ards of yard wide fiannel, take 5 pounds of hard soap, that is free from rosin, shave it line and put it in- to a kettle with 6 gallons of soft water : place it over a gentle fire and stir it until the soap is dissolved : after- wards suffer it to cool do’um to blood warmth. You will then take nearly half of the liquor and wet the cloth evenly, enter it in the mill and let it run about one hour. It is then to be taken out and overhauled ; lay it in the mill again and add the soap liquor as often as it inclines to get dry, but observe not to get it very wet, us that would tend to stop the felting of the cloth. Should the cloth full rather slow, handle it o^'cr once, in about an hour and a half — adding liquor occasionally ; proceed in this manner until the cloth has become of a suitable thickness, or the width that is Avanted. Now w^et the cloth with 4 or 5 pails of wnrm crater, -let it work a few minutes, then admit cold water until it runs off clear : it is then to be taken out and sti'etched on the pin smooth, at ^vhich time it ■will be ready for napping, £cc. Of scouring clijecl cloth . — For a stock of cloth, 60 pounds weight, or about 70 yards of nairow’ cloth, it will recjuire 3 gallons of soft soap, 4 gallons of urine and 4 gallons of soft water : put them into a kettle and heat scalding hot : stir it together until dissolved, then suffer it to cool down to a blood w^armtli. Wet tlie MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 153 cloth evenly, and enter it in the fulling mill to vvork for 'half an hour, then take it out and overhaulit ; lay it in tlie mill agato and let it nm until the superfluous coin- ing matte? is raised, then admit it to be washed m the 1 -nfll with water until clean. . N B Observe that tlie cloth should be rinsed in the mill wWt water only after it is dyed, then dryed before you proceed to scour as last directed. Of Blue on Woollen.— ^ oo\ and woollen stuffs of all kinds are dyed blue without any other preparation than wettiiJff tliemwellinluke-warm water, squeezing them well afterwards, or letting them dram. 1 his precaution is necessary that the color may the more easily msmuate itself into the body of the wool, that it may be equally dispersed diroughout ; nor is tliis to be omitted m any kmd of colors, whether the subject be wool or cloth. As to wool in the fleece, which is used m manufactu- ring cloth for mixtures, or intended for only one color, and which it is necessary to dye before it is spun, it is first prepared in another manner, viz : it is scoured, and thereby divested of the natural fat it had when on the body of the animal. As this operation is properly the dyer’s and is indispensable in wool which is to be dyed before’it is spun, let the color be what it will, we have given the best process for scouring it see “ observa- tions on scouring wool.” DIRECTION XXIV. Method of Setting and Working the Indigo Vat. There are several methods of erecting the indigo vat: some are constructed on the plan of heating the dye while in the vat, while others are calculated only for working the dye, and depend on heating it in a cop- per near by. Having seen vats worked of both de- p 2 354 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. scriptions, we think the former is to be preferred, partic- ularly from its convenience in keeping the dye at regu- lar heat, as also saving much time and trouble in emp- tying it backwards and forwards from the vat and cop- per, n hich is not only a means of wasting the liquor, but is in some degree injurious to the dye, by exposing it greatly to the action of air, which it will be perceived has an affect to blacken it. 'File most approved method of erecting vats, tliat are calculated for heating the blue dye while therein, and securing a regular heat while dyeing wool or cloth, is the following. Have the bottom or lower part of a vat formed with a cast iron kettle, having it of such a size as the extent of your work requires. The staves which are to form the chief part of the vat, should be made of pine plank, thoroughly seasoned, clear stuff, about 2 inches thick, and well bound witli iron hoops. The vat should be largest at the top, and the bottom part calculated of such a size as will set 3 or 4 inches in depth, on the inside from the top of the kettle, allow- ing a sufficient space to cork it thoroughly with oakum between the top of the kettle and staves. Previous to this, an iron hoop must be fastened round the top of the kettle, to render it secure. After the vat is thus prepared, place it in a convenient spot, with the bot- tom of the kettle set a few inches in the ground ; then surround it with brick work to a suitable height, having a small fireplace in front, and a flue against the kettle, made in a circular form to convey the heat to all sides of the dye, and then made to pass into a chimney. To set a vat of 6 barrels, you will first fill the A^at a- bout half full of boiling water. Then 1| pounds pot- ash previously dissolved in hot water, is to be added — then take 12 quarts of wheat bran that is free from flour and sprinkle into the vat ; 12 ounces of good madder is next to be added, which should be broken fine ; the whole is then to be well mixed together by stirring it with the rake. In the next place pour into the MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 155 vat pounds of best indigo, that has been ground in 'water as fine as oil, rake it well a few minutes, then co- ver the vat close, observing through all this process the vat should be closely covered, except at the time of in- troducing the different articles. In setting a new vat tlie evening is the best time, having all the materials added by ten at night. The morning af- ter setting, a gentle fire is to be made, to enable the dy- er to keep up a moderate heat in the vat, but observe not to allow tlie dye to become hardly scalding hot : at this time the vat is to be opened and plunged with the rake from the top to the bottom, which will cause bub- bles to appear. If on repeating the plunges a few times, a thick deep blue froth arises on the surface of the dye, and remains flouting, the liquor wearing the appearance of a dark green, the dye may be pronoun- ced to be in a good state. Should it be found necessa- ry to rake and plunge the dye 2 or 3 times, you will ob- serve to cover the vat close and let it remain an hour between each trial of plunging. Should your vat be set without any convenience at- tached to it for heating, and thereby suffered to become cool before it has come to work, there will be no head arise on the surface, although it may otherwise be good. In tliis case you will have to reheat the dye in the cop- per, and then pour it back again into the vat ; tliis will retard business and cause trouble, whereas tlie vat that has a kettle for its bottom, can be kept at a regular heat with the greatest ease. If the dye, on opening it the morning after setting, has a pale blue appearance, nearly half a pound of fine mad- der is to be sprmkled into it. Should the liquor have a whitish scum, it is a proof that it does not work, and will not color in that state : in tliis case a part of the dve should be reheated, and a small quantity of all its ingredi- ents added and in the same proportion as at first. A handful of lime slac ked to powder should then be put into warm water ; after it has settled, pour the clear 156 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. part into the vat, rake it well and allow it to stand an hour between each raking, observing not to uncover the j vat often, but let the air be excluded as much as possi- 1 ble by surrounding the top with cloths or blankets, se- j curing the heat to that degree that you can just endure i your hand in a few seconds. When the dye has come i to a head and is in a good state for dyeing, (according ' to appearances, which have been stated before) then let it stand secure in that situation until you wish to com- mence dyeing, at which time a copper is to be filled with clear water, then add 2 pounds of potash that has been dissolved in hot water, also one pound of madder and 16 quarts of bran; boil for 15 minutes, then extinguish die fire, allow it to settle a few minutes and empty the clear part into the vat. Then add two pounds of best indigo finely ground. Having filled the vat within 4 inches of the top, rake it well and cover it close. The next morning the vat should be opened and plunged, then cover it close ; let it rest one hour, plunge again and let it rest for the same time. If the dye is in gxx>d condition, there will be several quarts of froth on the surface, which will appear of a copper- colored blue, and the liquor of a dark green ; in this state the dye is proper to be employed in coloring. The cloth intended to be dyed should be cleansed from all filth, especially grease, as that •would overset ; the dye even in its best state. Before the cloth is en- tered into the vat, it must be thoroughly wet in hot wa- ter and drained. The quantity of indigo and other in- gredients that have been directed, will dye to advan- take 60 yards of flannel, which should first be scoured or about one quarter part fulled. Half of that quantity ; may be dyed at one draught. As soon as the vat is opened for the purpose of dyeing, take off the froth and put it in a convenient vessel ; next let down the net, which should be attached to an iron hoop and suspen- : ded by three cords. The stick or cross piece is then ' to be placed about one inch below the surface of the ] MANUFACTURER'S ASSISTANT. i5r ,d}’e, for the purpose of hauling the cloth over it. You Will now place the cloth in regular folds, begin at one end and haul it in the dye, keeping it well open till you liave draun through the Avhole draught ; continue haul- ing the cloth backwards and forwards from end to end for about 20 minutes, during which time it is to be kept entirely under the surface of the dye. After this process, begin at one end and ui'ing it up, then take it on the folduig table or boards, and fold it over and over until it becomes blue and even. If this part of the business is neglected, your cloth will be clouded. When the cloth is first taken out of the A'at, if the dye !is in good order, it will exhibit a green shade, but on i being exposed to tlie air will soon become blue. After each draught of cloth has been dipped twice, take out I the cross piece and net, and return the froth back which was taken oif, rake and plunge the dye several times, then cover it close. An hour after open the vat, place the net and cross piece, and proceed in dyeing as before until the color is nearly as dark as will at last be required. The cloth must now be rinsed and pass a second milling. Before you dip the cloth for the last time, you will reheat part of the dye (which is at tl^is time of a bluish broum) in the copper, and when it is ready to boil, all the scum that is formed at tlie top is taken off with a sieve, tlien add the same proportions of bran, madder, and potash as before, boil for 15 minutes, the fire is then removed from tlie copper, and a little cold water put in to stop tlie boil, allow it to settle for a few minutes, then pour the clear part into die vat, at ivliich time add 2 pounds of finely ground indigo. After this the vat is raked, covered, and some fire put round it : the next day it will be fit to work, which is to be man- aged as before directed until you have obtained the de- sired shade. After this, the dye should be suffered to cool, then kept covered close till it is again employed for coloring.. The dyer mu 158 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. to heat the dye as often as once in six weeks to preserve it. When the dye becomes thick and sizy by much use, the clear part of it must be boiled, the scum taken off, and the clear part returned to the vat ; at which time ,, add two quarts of lime water, which will clarify it and cast down the sediment ; should tlie grounds rise, the color will be imperfect, therefore they should be well settled before the goods are admitted. In dyeing wool in the fleece, it will be necessary to have an additional net, made in a circular form, A\ ith meshes about an inch square. The net should have a border fastened to it of stout cotton or linen cloth, Avith loop holes near the edge, having a cord run through them. When the net is let down into the dye, the bor- der is to be brought over the edge of the vat, and the loop cord secured in many places by hooking it over nails on tlie outside. After the wool has been scoured clean, rinsed, and nearly dried, it is then thrown loose- ly in the dye, and stirred about regular with a smooth stick for 20 minutes. The loop cord is tlien taken from all sides of the vat, and brought together above, form- ing with the cord a few loops, these are to be put up- on a hook attached to a stout strap or rope. The strap is then am over a pulley fixed to the floor, and the net dra i\m out of the dye ; two sticks of timber are then placed across the top of the vat, and a half barrel tub, (bored with lioles) rested on them, over the centre of the dve. Next let the net and wool sink into the tub, put o1i the top of it a circular follower and press it hard with a lever. Then remove the tub, take out the wool, and air it ; in this manner proceed to dip and air until it is dark enough. After coloring deep blue on cloth or wool, the dye may be used for pale blues, which ansv.’ers a better pur- pose for that shade when it is weak. MANUFACTUREll-S ASSISTANT. 159 DIRECTION XXV. For an excellent Black on JVoollpi. For 20 yards or 16 pounds of clotli or yam it will require the following articles, 8 pounds of logwood, 1 pound 4 ounces sumac, 1 pound 4 ounces maple bark, 8 ounces of nutgalls, 3 pounds 8 ounces of copperas, 4 ounces of pearlash, 3 ounces cream of tartar, and 4 ounces of verdigids. Use the same proportions to dye any number of pounds. To produce a superior black, you must in tlie first place d}'e the clotli a light indigo blue in the wai'm dye n hich is to be done before fulling ; then full and fit it for coloring. 1. Prepare a kettle with about three ban'els of water, then add to it 8 pounds of logv. ood, one pound four ounces of sumac, the same quantity of maple bark, and 8 ounces of nutgalls pow dered fine. It is then . brought to boil for one hour and a half ; you will then stop it from boiling, and suffer the chips and dye stuff to settle at the bottom ; then take out the clear dye li- quor, and put it into a clean hogshead, w Inch will be ready for use in one w'eek. 2. In the next place prepare a small kettle wdth a pail full of w arm water, and dissolve in it 3 pounds 8 ounces of copperas, which must be stiired while dis- solving, and aftenvards the scum is to be taken off. 3. When your logwood liquor has stood for tlie time above mentioned, or somew hat longer if more conve- nient ; then put about two tliirds of it into a clean ket- tle, bring it to a boil, and put in your clotli and run it while boiling for about one hour. At tliis time let an- 160 MANUF^^CTTJRER'S ASSISTANT. other person stir up and skim the copperas water, and ; take about 5 quarts of it and pour into the dye slowly, ’ a little at a time, while you are moving the cloth in the ; dye ; minding not to pour it on the cloth, but rather on 1 the side of the kettle. The cloth is to be run one hour ‘ after the copperas liquor is added ; then taken out and aired. 4. The dye must now be refreshed with some of the prepared logwood liquor, and also add about one quart of the copperas liquor. It is tlien brought to a boil, and die cloth put in and nm while boiling for one hour, then taken out and aired. 5. You wall now add the remainder of the logivood liquor to the dye ; also four ounces of pearlash, three ounces of cream of tartar, and four ounces of verdigris, which last must be slacked before hand by putting it in several thicknesses of wet brown paper, and then covering it up in hot embers : it is then to be dissolved in a little of the hot dye lic[uor, and added to the dye, , The dye is now to be brought to a boil, and the cloth put in and run while boiling for one hour ; then taken out and aired, and afterwards rinsed and scoured. DIRECTION XXVI. To dye a common Black on JVoollcn. For 20 yards or 16 pounds of cloth or yam it will re- quire 2 pounds and a half of copperas, 2 ounces of blue vitriol, 8 pounds of logwood, 2 pounds of fustic. Use the same proportions to dye any number of pounds. 1. Prepare a kettle with a sufficientquantity of water to admit your woollen to be worked in the dye without MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 161 being crowded : bring the neater to a scalding heat, tlien put in the cloth or yam for a few minutes. When it is wet tlioroughly take it out and drain it. 2. In the next place put in two pounds of copperas and 2 ounces of blue vitriol. When botli are entirely dis- solved, bring the liquor to a gentle boil, stir up the dye and put in the cloth or yam. (In dyeing of woollen yam observe that it should often be stirred about in the dye with a stick : the same way also should be practi- ced in dyeing small quantities of flannel cloth ; but it will be found necessary to use a reel to dye cloth in large quantities) run the cloth for one hour, and air it once in that time ; it is then to be taken out, aired, and rinsed well. 3. The copperas liquor is now to be emptied away and the kettle rinsed and filled nearly full of water ; then add 8 pounds of logwood chips and 2 pounds of fustic chips, which are to boiled about two hours, then add some water and take out the chips. 4. The cloth is now to be put in and mn while boil- ing for half an hour ; then take it out and air it. Add half a pound of copperas to the dye, and when it is dis- solved, enter the woollen and run it for half an hour longer; then air, rinse, and scour it well. DIRECTION XXVII. Another common Black on JVoollen. For 20 yards or 16 pounds of clotli or yam. The following receipt may be considered %vorth at- tention to those who v ish to dye black on v/oollen in families, as it is attended Avith Gut little trouble and ex- pense. The same may be said of the last receipt for dyeing a common black. There are many families who already understand how to dye a good black onAvoollen ; o 162 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. but there are also many who do not. Some fail in pro- ducing a good black, by not using enough dye stuff in proportion for their woollen ; others fail by mixing the copperas and logwood together, through the whole course of dyeing the black ; and many by not having a suffi- cient quantity of water at first. There should always be so much dye liquor in dyeing woollen of any color, that the cloth, yam, or wool, may be moved about loose and free in the dye. 1. Prepare a kettle with a sufficient quantity of water, bring it to a scalding heat, then add 12 ounces of blue vitriol that is pounded ; when it is dissolved put in your woollen, and let the liquor boil gently while you are run- ning the cloth, or stirring it about in the dye. When it has been in half an hour, take it up drain and air it, then dip again as before for half an hour. It is then to be taken out and cooled. 2. Now add to the liquor some water and 6 pounds of logwood chips, boil smartly for half an hour, then put in the woollen and run or stir it about for half an hour. It is then to be taken out and cooled. 3. In the next place add either of the following ar- ticles to the dye : one pound and a half of madder, or 3 pecks of butternut bark, or a pail full of sumac, or half a bushel of soft maple bark ; either one of the kinds will answer. You will then boil and dip until the color pleases. Should you find it not black enough, dissolve a handful of copperas separate in a little of the hot dye li- quor, then add it to the dye, and dip the woollen a few minutes longer and it will be completed. Then cool, rinse, and scour it well. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 163 DIRECTION XXVIII. Green on JFoollen. To dye 1 pound of cloth, yarn, flannel, or any kind of woollen articles, it will require tire following ingredi- ents. 1 ounce and a quarter of oil of vitriol, 1 quarter of an ounce of indigo, 1 ounce cream of tartar, 2 ounces of allum, 8 ounces of fustic. Use tlie same proportion of articles to dye any num-* ber of pounds. In tlie first place prepare the chymic or compound of oil of vitriol and indigo, which is made in the following manner. Take a glazed earthen cup or pot, of a suitable siz^e and put in one ounce aud a quarter of oil of vitriol ; then add to it one quarter of an ounce of Spanish flote or best Bengal indigo which is to be pounded fine and sifted ; then stir tlie mixture hastily with a stick, w hich is necessary in order to mix it well and produce a reg- ular fermentation ; this should be done until it has done w orking : then add half a table spoonful of water, and mix it together and it wnll be fit for use in one day. Should die compound not work or ferment after stir- ring it, you may conclude the oil of vitriol is not good and had better not be used. Supposing you wish to make move compound than wnll be wanted for d}-eing at one time, you must put it in a glass bottle and stop it close with a ivax or glass stopper ; in this way it will keep good for a year or more : however those wdio have had no practice in dyeing green may as w^ell procure only as much oil of vitriol and indigo as will be wanted to dye their wool- len at one time ; for in this ivay there will be no chance 164 MANUFx\CTURER’S ASSISTANT. of making any mistake in using too much oi' too little. After one trial is made in dyeing green, it will be found afterwards simple and easy. Observe that in the a- bove direction to make the compound, tlie quantity of oil of vitriol and indigo stated, is calculated to dye one pound of woollen. Dyeing the Greai. 1. Prepare either an iron, brass or copper kettle, with three gallons of water ; which is sufficient for one pound of woollen. When the water is scalding hot, add one ounce of cream of tartar, and two ounces of allum ; then bring it to boil and put in the woollen, boil it about one hour and a half ; stirring it in the li- quor occasionally during that time. It is then to be tiikeii out, drained and aired. 2. You will now add some water to tlie kettle to> make up the deficiency caused by boiling ; then add to the liquor, two thirds of the compoimd of oil of vit- riol and indigo ; mix it well witli the liquor, then put in the woollen, keeping the liquor at only a scalding heat, and often moving it about in the dye. When the woolleii lias been in the dye half an hour, it is to be ta- ken out, aired and rinsed. 3. In the next place add 8 ounces of fustic chips to ihe liquor, which are to be put loosely in a thin coarse bag, and boiled about an hour and a half. The bag is ihen to be taken out, and the woollen put in and boiled gently little more than an hour; airing the woollen once in that time. It is then to be taken out and aired. 4. You will find at this time you have produced a green. Should it be found to bear too much on the \ ellow, then add a little more of tlie compound to the ounces of allum, 1 \ oimces of verdigris 1 f ounces cream of tartar ; then bring tlie water to a boil and enter the cloth : run it Avhile boiling, for 1 hour. It is then to be taken out, aired and rinsed. 2. In the next place empty away the liquor and fill up wdth water as before ; then add 4| pounds of logwood chips, (put in a bag) boil it for If hours ; the bag is then to be taken out and the dye refreshed tvith water. Now add 6 ounces of madder, which is to be broken up fine and w^ell mixed in the dye ; it is then to be brought to a boil and tlte cloth put in and run w hile boiling, for about half an hour — then taken out and aired. 3. Now add to the dye 6 ounces of blue vitriol and 3 ounces of pearlash ; mix it w^ell wfith the liquor, then run the cloth while boiling, for about 20 minutes. It is then to be taken out, aii'ed and rinsed. 180 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. DIRECTION XLIV. Navy Blue on Woollen. For 20 5 'ards or 16 pounds of yarn or cloth. 1. Prepare a ketile with a sufficient quantity of wa- ter, briii'r it to a scalding heat, then wet the cloth or yarn and let it drain. Add to the water one jDound of copperas, 2 oimces of blue vitriol and 1 ounce of allum. When it is dissolved bring the liquor to a boil, and run the woollen for 1 hour. It is then to be taken out, air- ed and rinsed. 2. In the next place empty away the liquor and fill up again watli water ; then add 5 pounds of logwood chips. Boil it for 1 hour, then run the woollen for 15 minutes, then take up and air it. Now add a little blue vitriol, then dip the woollen. In this way add and dip until you get the shade to your mind. DIRECTION XLV„‘ Purple on Woollen. For 20 yards or 16 pounds of yarn or cloth. 1. Prepare a kettle with a sufficient quantity of wa- ter to cover the cloth or yam, then add 3 pounds of camwood and the liquor of 9 pounds of logwood. 2. Bring the dye to a boiling heat, then enter the woollen, (which must be wet in hot water before hand and drained) run it for abouthalf an hour while boiling. It is then to be taken out and aired. 3. In the next place add to the dye four ounces of blue vitriol that is pounded pHvhen it is dissolved then run the cloth for half an hour-’ It is then to be taken up and aired. Now add some copperas liquor to the dye, mix it well, then run again till the color suits ; it is then to be aired and rinsed. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 181 ' DIRECTION XL VI. Snuff color on Woollen. For 20 yards or 16 pounds of I'arn or cloth. 1. Prepare a kettle with a sufiicient quantity of wa- ter, when it has become warm, wet your cloth and drain it, then add one pound of copperas, brinp- the liquor to I a scalding heat and take oft' the scum that rises on the 1 : top. When the liquor begins to boil, enter and run i the cloth one hour, (airing it once in that time.) It is then to be taken up, aired, and rinsed. 2. The liquor is now to be emptied out, and the kettle filled again with fresh water ; then add 8 pounds of fustic chips, half a bushel of butternut bark, 1 pqund of camwood, and half a pound of madder. 1 3. The dye is then to be boiled moderately 2 hours, and the cloth run for half an hour ; it is then taken out ; and aired. Dissolve half a pound of copperas in a lit- tle of the hot liquor, then add it to tlie dye, and run your cloth until the color suits. DIRECTION XLVII. Sniff Brown and London Smoke. For 20 yards fulled cloth or 26 yards thin cloth. 1. Prepare a kettle with a sufiicient quantity of water I when it has become nearly scalding hot, wet the cloth and drain it. Then add to the liquor two pounds of eopperas, bring it to a scalding heat and skim the dye. !When the copperas is dissolved, enter the cloth and run it wV.ile moderately boiling, forone h.our ; it is then Ito be taken out aired and rinsed. I 2. In tiv next place empty out the liquor, and fill the jkettle again with fresh u ater; then add ten pouii'-'s of jhistic chips, and one bushel of butternut bark ; boil moderately for three hours, then enter the cloth, and 182 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 1 run and air it several times for one hour, or until the strength is well out of the dye ; it is then to be taken up and aired. To darken the color first take out the bark ( ixnd chips, then add half a pound of copperas : when it ^ is dissolved run the cloth for 15 minutes, and it will be | finished. I 3. To produce a London smoke, add the liquor of I four pounds of logwood before the copperas is added, . then bring it to a boil and run for one hour, then cool and rinse. DIRECTION XLVIII. } Light Drab on Woollen. For 20 yards or 16 pounds of cloth. ^ 1. Prepare a kettle with a sufficient quantity of water, ^ then add a bushel of white ash bark, and one quarter of | a pound of fustic chips ; boil it for one hour, then take 1 out the bark and fustic. I 2. Now add as much w ater as evaporated in boiling, , then dissolve a handhil of copperas in some of the hot \ liquor by itself, and add a part of it to the dye, mix it ■ well and bring it to a boil, then run your cloth for about | half an hour. It is now to be taken out quick and j aired. i 3. If you wish the color darker, add a little more of the copperas liquor to the dye, and mix it well, then run the cloth until the shade is to your mind. It is then i to be taken out, aired, and rinsed. , DIRECTION XLIX. To dge a Drab color on Woollen, ( with niitgalls.) 1. Prepare a kettle w ith a sufficient quantity of >va* MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 183 ter, bring it to a scalding heat and wet your cloth, then take it up and let it drain. 2. In the next place add five table spoonfulls of fine- ly pounded nutgalls, and boil for half an hour ; then en- ter the cloth and run while boiling, for half an hour ; it is then to be taken out and aired. 3. Now add to the dye half a table spoonfull of al- lum ; let it boil a few minutes, then skim off the filth that rises at the top. Run your doth again for half an hour, then take out and air. Add a tea spoonfull of copperas, then run again until the color suits your mind, then air and rinse. DIRFXTION L. Silver Gray on JFooIlen. To dye one pound of cloth or yarn it will require tlie following articles. Half an ounce of copperas. Half an ounce cream of tartar. 3 ounces of logwood, 2 ounces of sumac. Use tlie same proportions to dye any number of pounds. 1. Prepare a kettle with about 4 gallons of water, then take t'a'o ounces of the shoots and leaves of sumae tliat are cured and cut up fine, and three ounces of log- V. ood chips ; put them loosely into a tliin coarse bag and boil it for about one hour, then take the bag out. 2. add to the dye half an ormce cream of tar- tar, then bring it to a boil, and put in the woollen for one hour: it is then to be taken out and aired. 3. In the next place refresh the dye with water, then add to it half an ounce of copperas ; when it is dissolved biing the d} e to a moderate boil, then enter the wool- % 1-84 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. len and move it round for twenty minutes; it is then to be taken out, aired, and rinsed. DIRECTION LI. Indigo Blue on TFool or Linen, ( as practiced in many families.) 1. To color 6 pounds of wool, or 5 pounds of linen yarn, put two pailsfull of chaniL'crlye into a clean tub, then dissolv e 4 ounces of potasli, (or instead of it 6 ounces of peailash) in one quart of hot water; put this in the tub, mix it and let it stand for six days. Then pour off the clear part into a kettle, until you come to the settlings. The settlings w ill now be thrown away, and the tul^ rinsed; you will then pour the clear liquor back into the tub again. 2. Take 4 ounces of indigo, and two ounces of mad- der, ]^ut them into a thin bag, and put it in the tub, rubbing it well 4 or 5 times in the course of the day. You w'ill now put the yarn or w^ool under the dye for 6 hours, then take it out, w ring and air it. If it is not dark enough put it in again and proceed as before, un- til it is to your mind. N. E. When the dye grows w'eak, add more dye stuff and let the proportion be the same as at first di- rected, although the quantity used w ill not be as much. Spanish Flote, or. best Bengal Indigo, is to be preferred for this dve. DESCRIPTION OF DYE-WOODS AND DRUGS. NUTGALLS. — Of the gall nut there are different kinds; -some inclining to white, some ash-colored, and others to a blue- ish cast. They also differ in size and are either round or irregu- lar, lieavy or Hglit, smooth or knotted. Those which are small, knotted and heavy and of a dark color are esteemed the best; they are of a very astringent nature, and of great use in dyeing black, grays, &c. on wool, silk and cotton. Galls are used to great advantage as a basis in the preparation of many colors, as the astringent quality wliich they possess becomes affixed to the body of the stuffs ; and w'hen dipped in the dye, the coloring matter immediately adheres to it. Sumac will supply the place of galls, in dyeing various colors, if used in a sufficient quantity to produce a liquor of an equal strength. MADDER. — This is an important and valuable plant; which is used in dyeing red, cinnamon, &c. The common, or crop madder is cultivatefl among the Dutch in Zealand, where it is pre- pared and gi'ound for exportation. The plant has rough narrow leaves, set round the joints ef the Stem in the form of a star. — The root which is the only part made use of, is long and slender, of a red color, both on the outside and within, excepting a whi- tish pith that runs througli the middle of it. The only precau- tion in selecting the common ground madder, is that if should ap- pear of a brigl\t yellowish red-brown, and should smell sweet and fresh. The madder plant may be cultivated in many parts of the U- nited States to advantage. It is three years aftei- the first root is set in the ground, before it comes to maturity; they may be pla- ced 4 feet apartin the first setting them in the ground, arid should be hoed the first year to keep them clear from weeds. If they are planted on a rich deep soil, which is much the best, the roots will extend to the depth of two feet or more, and yield more a- bundantly than almost any other vegetable. The time of taking them out of the ground is in the months of September and Oc- tober, they are then carefully assorted and washed in clean cold S 186 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. water and drjed by a stove heat, ready for pounding. The'first pounding separates and brings into the form of a powder the smallest fibres of the roots, with the skin or husk of the larger ones, and any earth which may have been left adhering thereto. This powder being sifted, is then packed separately in casks and sold at a low price and used foi- cheap dark colors. A second pounding separates about one third of the remaining part of the larger roots, and this being sifted and jiacked sepa- rately, is called ordinary powder. The tliird and last pounding comprehends the residue and bright part of the roots ; this is called crop madder, Avhieh produces the best of red?. This kind of madder is as yet rather scarce in this country. Madder gives to wmollen cloth, prepared with allum and tartar, the most durable of all reds, though not so bright as the coclii- * neal scarlet ; yet the red of madder has this important advan- tage, by enduring to be washed with soap, w ithout producing any material cliange of color; w'hereas the cochineal scarlet by the same means used, becomes tarnished. Those who dye the best madder red, are very careful to keep the lic[Uor of a heat considerably below that of boiling, encreasing the fire towards the end, so that it may boil only a minute ort\yo just before tlie woollen is taken out. Should the liquor be sufier- ed to boil for a long time, it W'ould extract the light brown i matter contained in madder, which would cliange it to a dull f dark red. NICARAGUA. — This wood is considerably used foi- dyeing cheap reds, & otlier colors throughout this country ? it is almost as red and heavy as the true Brazil-wmod, but w ill not generally af- ford half as much color. Nicaragua dilfers much in qtiality, for some of it wdll dye twice as much as others. The best kind grow s near Santa Mai'tlia, in South-America ; tliat which is the soundest and appears of a yellowish red, on cutting it, is generally allowed j to be of a good quality. j BRAZIL, OR RED WOOD. — Tliis kind of dye-wood isim- <1 ported from different parts of South-America and Japan ; it va- ries much in quality from having been more or less exposed to air. A small quantity of this w'ood is sometimes used to advan- | tage in finishing madder reds, or in place of cochineal in dyeing || cheap scarlets, CAMWOOD. — This wood affords a coloring matter that is permanent, wJien the dye is imparted to woollen and withstands \ the effects of air and commoji acids, much better than most other- dye-woods. The appearance of this wood on first splitting it, is of a bright ; redish orange, and has a pungent smell, but after it has been ex.- posed to the air the color changes to a dull red. In {rreparing it J I MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 18 ^ for ^n^selLting that ground SClSoF S“rr*‘y p,..e.oi T,.at w,.cU « of a souseful inalteimgtue but on being united self.produced fiom this I color, not easily Avith other materials it a™* this reason, together obtained with other woods 01 ^ 1 desirable, especially withitslow price, the use «ff,^VbX^rsoft and velvet hue. This from itsbcmg capable of for dyeing, should and other c ye woods when^ event the chips sticking to be enclosed in a thin co . o ‘ ^ only iniure the qual- the cloth ; as that in many cas sw the streW ity oi tlie cloth, but cion , ]j- ^ the cloth was entered in the of the chips w.as not f fogs c^ from the bark, dye. This wood comes ovei and of a red color. fustic. Thr j^dies and South-Amenca, and comes which ,*iphur color, which it readily ^vys out. in logs , It IS ot a tie p P extensively used in dye- both to spirits and w atei. ^ also in many other colors. fog yellow, ®gjXre more permanent by using sumac Sit The ^ free from sap and P^'w^T^'^'^This plant is raised in great quantities in England "MS Jna S-oM-'L itL alia, aal a the curcuma and afforj a rich cobr, and surpasses ^ ?o!rrsTanfod in dyeing some colors on ''^PASTEL, OR WOAD.-This plant is distinguished by two 188 MANUFACTURER'S ASSISTANT. oe ripe bj its fallino-down and ** known to- ed, and the ground^ cleared ^ it is thengather- peated each fror The carefully re- a stream, and then driedl sneedd v cut down,is washed ia ried to the mill to be grind and % formed into heaps anTaflc ^ It is then kands and feet, if is beat down Li P^^t® well with the An ontwarcl cru t soon flL ™,,i “T!'' it cracks. great care m«stbTt.ril? t >vhen yf a fortnlh, thei hZ .re‘l“ ' , AUhe end and well mixed. It of a fortni^huhellilps al'llelt”:?! in tl- sun. Wncci , . . nails and dried in the sun aide, able “f "»- «r Woarl L a dye “f’al nrfset “ f of bn/tness. The use Cliicfly employe.Uor the nwnose abantToned, and is notv wollen. ‘orlate sonre d?e rarri„dS',"g “.T ‘'y' f"'- cheap veirefables the 0-rmv+ltrr inclined to believe that other of m' oarT in Sat res~c; «>e place brought from Soilth America ' ^ of dry paste in general, but is not permanent and nmre pure aa thatof rSou Irdyeilr' Ttls ?“•" “1 ^ It has been found necessary to in spirits of nftre »f, ^I 'd ,S. is done bj melting gr.ain the tin before it can ■ ? water which separates it Ld poring it from » f '^Xn ^ai-d s'tale intosinad pie^ li,|Uo? made by d.stil- lA?7fw nte with calcined ritrlol, or rectiffed oil ot vitriol ‘"Irol'vlWop^This among Other uses in dj emg, ^ J and sometimes for SXif u fSdt aT water, of a bright color, and weigh abour^ oM with soot,, a SALAMONIAC. ■_ Pottle Some chymists imitate little sea-salt, and the urine of caU . ^ with which it by adding one soot. Should it accidentally that respect wdththe tincture of gal.s. s 2 190 MANUFACTURER'S ASSISTANT. SPIRITS OF SAT T Ti u • «atr“ ‘™ ™«t- irj.terials fur if, allrnn, but affords the it IS a fossil salt or wbfto mineral substanis! _wa&I)ing it with water whirli h ’ ’ from the earth bv IS afterwards boiled ami evLoS'"' S ^ration for man/colors and ^ sfnffs, wl'.ether of a vee-etahL sa r’ ° . '^•«iost all kinds of COPPERAS OR P|SVlTRinV"‘"P* production ' substance extracted from iron ^ paration for black and other da, t i ^ mordant or pre- nous shades, wherein iruslA f ' " ’ ‘^arkenin/vL mac, alder bark, n^aiPtc P "^Sf^^Wes, such a! lu rust, and kept in neither a Copperas should be free Lm BLUE VITRIOL.— This iimmPP-'-^ exposed situation. VERl)iGR?s“JLTr''‘''"'"^^^^^^ S'npes or otiiW TOctabl^acU ses It to dissolve slowlj. ^ ® copper, which cau- licularl/Ti'TotrV'artrof Fraic?" iH^ ^ lors especiallf bfck. djeing s^omfco- ARGOL, Or CREAM OF TARTAR 'ru- ty nature into a hard and almost ston^Jl’'"^'’!? formed table juice after fermentation Tu”^ sepaiation, from a vege- duce of wine, beino- found m la ^ ^ common tartar is the nro and sides of casks^ in which that 1 ns material is useful in fixiim‘ man^ kept.— when usedwirhallum, prevents the InH r^’® ^''o^Pen, and ming into chrjstals. ^ P™m congealing or for- POT & PEARI.ASH r> i 1 • 'Vhich is made bj burning vei^tables^to'’^’'^'^ able alkali, ‘='-^P«"^t^dbyboiliVgunti[te aproSsSf' baking'it taL“'ZT‘“''‘ “"'rl'f Of Barks and Plants nsefid in Dyeina. “^LDER, bark — — T’l * k 1 • ^ America, except in the sLirdome” tic *dTe‘ 7t"^ viuesuc aje. ft po.ssesses a co- MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. il)l loving matter, and when applied to cotton or wool, previously prepared, in a solution of allum will produce a lasting brownish yellow. With a preparation of copperas and allum, and after- wards dipped in a strong liquor extracted from the bark, it will produce a brown, and by being prepared with copperas only, will assist to produce a black. Alder bark may be considered nearly as valuable in assisting to form a black as sumac. ARSMART. — This weed grows in plenty in many parts of the United States, and is generally found at the sides of roads and fences. This plant alfords a yellow dye that is durable, when applied to woollen, and more permanent than fustic when imparted to cotton. It is found necessary in preparing it for dye- ing yellow, to use as much of it as can be crowded under the wa- ter, and allow it to soak in a warm place for three or four days ; afterwards it must be brought to a scalding heat. Woollen is first prepared by boiling it one hour in allum water, using 4 oun- ces of allum to a pound of woollen, then dipped in the yellow dye. Cotton or linen ai e to be first soaked in the same propor- tion of allum and water (only warm) over night, then wrung and dipped in the yellow dye, at little less than a scalding heat. BUTTERNUT BARK.— This bark is esteemed from its af- fording a durable color, and a great variety of shades. The co- loring matter is extracted to the best advantage, by soaking the bark in water a few hours before you begin to color: during which time the water should not be suft’ered to get hot. Enter the woollen when the liquor is warm, (having the bark in the ket- tle) keep a gentle fire under it, and bring it slowly to a scalding heat, airing it once in half an liour. You will proceed to dip and air in this manner, until the strength of the bark is exhaust- ed ; observing not to suffer the liquor to boil, as that would in- jure the color. By using a great proportion of bark, and adding copperas to the liquor, after the strength of the bark is extract- ed, and the bark taken out of the dye, you may obtain a very handsome dark brown, equal to a British mud. The bark is best when used gieen. To dye cotton with this bark, the cotton is first prepared in allum, using 4 ounces to the pound, and only as much water as will cover the cotton, being as w'arm as you can bear the hand in it. I^et it soak over night, then wring it out and dip in the bark dye until it suits your mind. BIRCH bare. — T he bark of the black birch, dyes a nan- keen color en cotton and linen with an allum preparation. Af- ter boiling the bark it should be strained, and suffered to cool so that you can bear the liand in it, then dip the cotton till the co- lor suits. HEMLOCK BARK. — This bark affords a coloring matter, which with an allum preparation produces a durable light red- 192 iMANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. dish brown on wool, when the dye is made strong, and a nankeen color on cotton, but not very permanent on the latter. , When the wool or cotton is prepared with copperas, it produces dark drab and slate colors. MAPLE BARK.' — The bark of the soft maple produces a du- rable cinnamon color on wool, and also on cotton, by first boiling the woollen in allum water for one hour, then boil up a separate and strong dye of the bark and dip it. Cotton is to be first soak- ed in warm allum water several hours, then handled in the bark dye, at a little less than a scalding heat. When the woollen or cotton is prepared in copperas liquor, it produces slate colors, light or dark, according to the strength of the preparation and dye li- quor. WALNUT, OR HICKORY BARK. — Tliis bark produces a bright yellow and far more durable than that of fustic, either when applied to cotton or wool. W’’oollen is prepared for cl 3 'e- ingby boiling it onekour in allum water, using 4 ounces of allum to a pound of wool. In the next place, make a strong dye of the bark and dip the woollen until it is to your mind. Cotton is dyed by handling it in allum water of the same strength, but only warm : then let it soak in it over night. It is then to be wrung and dipped in the dj^e until it suits. The dye for woollen is to be neai ly boiling hot, but for cotton only as warm as the hand can be borne in at the time of dipping it. 1^ N. B.- By dyeing cotton or linen, a light indigo blue first, then alluming it, and afterwards dipping it in the walnut bark dye with a little blue vitriol, you will obtain a green. YELLOW OAK BARK. — This species of bark affords a more durable yellow on cotton, linen or woollen than any other native plant, bark or root that has yet been discovered in theU. States. The bark appears to consist of three coats, viz : The outside coat which age hardens and becomes almost black — the middle coat, in which the coloring matter mostly resides, is of a yellow color. The inside part is rather hard and fibrous, and therefore does not contain much coloring mattei’. The outside coat of this bark, affords a coloring matter but is of a yellowish brown, therefore it must be separated and taken off by shaving, and thrown away. The remainder must be dried and ground, which will form it partly into powder, and the rest into stringy fibres. The bark thus prepared, will yield far more coloring matter than either fustic or weld. In trade and com- merce, this bark is called Quercitron, and is now sold in New- York for exportation, from 45 to 60 dollars per ton. To pro- duce a good color with the bark, it should not be boiled, but first steeped in cold water, afterwards the strength is to be extracted at a scalding heat. The metliod of dyeing cotton and woollen 195 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. with this bark, in other respects is the same as has been stated for dyeing yellow with hickory bark. SUMAC. — The common sumac is a natural production of the United States, the stalks of which afford a yellow dye, with an allum preparation. The shoots and leaves have another kind ot coloring matter much like that of nutgalls, which renders it valu- able in dyeing cotton and woollen drab and slate colors. Of late it is much used in dyeing black and many other colors. Su- mac should be cut in the last part of summer, or in the month of September, taking that of only one season’s growth : it should then be dried like hay and packed away. Before it is used, it should be cut up fine or ground,u$ingthe shoots and leaves mixed togeth- er. After boiling sumac for dyeing, the liquor should be strained before the stuffs are dipped. PEACH LEAVES.— It is found that the leaves of the peach tree afford a yellow color more durable than that of fustic. These leaves are not much used, except in the small domestic dye. The leaves are gathered and used while green. The color is extract- ed and the stuffs dyed in the same manner as directed in the de- scription of arsmart. LOMBARDY POPLAR.— The bark and shoots of this tree produce a tolerable good yellow on woollen, where the dye is made very strong. It requires an allum preparation and is man- aged the same in dyeing as has been mentioned for walnut or hickory bark. USEFUL RECEIPTS. To remove Iron Molds from Cotton or Linen. Take an earthen vessel, pour into it boiling water, then spread the stained parts of your cloth over it, let it remain until well penetrated with the steam, then rub on the places sorrel juice mixed with salt until it is well soaked. Such cloths washed afterwards in common lye, will be made free from spots of mold. , ^ To itemove Carriage Wheel Grease from Woollen Cloth. To effect this, the spots of grease must be first rub- bed with fresh butter, then lay on two or three strips of blotting paper and apply a hot fiat iron to it ; this will entirely take out the spots. To restore a Spoiled W ine. Draw the wine off from its own lees and put it on the lees of good wine, then pulverise four or five nut- megs, with as many dry oran^^e peels, add this mixture to the wine, stop the cask tight and let it ferment three weeks ; after this time the w ine will be found as good as ever. To Clarify Wme. Take 2 quarts of boiling milk, skim it well and w hile hot pour it into the cask. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 19 J A method to Soften Horn so tlmt it may be cast in any shape. Make a very strong lye with equal parts of aper and brush it over with a small ball made of cotton wool. To make an Od Varnish. Take one quart of linseed oil, add 3 ounces of lith- arge, 1 ounce of burnt umber and half an ounce sugar of lead, boil it moderately until it settles clear, stirring it in the mean time. While cooling, add 1 ounce of white vitriol ; A\ hen cold strain it off and put it in a glass bottle, stop it with a cork and hang it up witli a MANOTACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 19/ 'vvire hole in the cork ; then let it hang until it is white and clear. Apply this A'arnish to paint that is dry and let the sun come to it if convenient. To make a Black Varnish. Take gum-lac 4 ounces, sanderak and rosin 1 ounce each, pulverize them separately, 'dissolve the rosin over a fire in a sufficient quantity of spirit of wine, then add tlie sanderak to it ; as soon as it is dissolved add the pow- der of gum-lac and stir it until it is well melted and mixed together. It is then to be strained while w arm tlirough a linen cloth. The black color is made by ad- ding two drams of ivory black to every two ounces of the other. Of the fme tortoise shell japan ground, produced by means of heat. The best kind of tortoise shell groimd produced by heat is not less valuable for its great hardness, and en- during to be made hotter than boiling water without damage, than for its beautiful appearance. It is to be made by means of a varnish prepared in the following manner. “Take of good linseed oil one gallon, and of umber half a pound. Boil them together till the oil becomes very brovm and thick ; strain it then through a coarse cloth, and set it again to boil ; in which state it must be continued till it acquires a pitchy consistence, when it will be, fit for use.” Having prepared thus the varnish, clean well the iron or cop])er-plate, or otlier piece which is to be jappan- ned ; and then lay vermillion tempered with shell-lac varnish, or vvitli. diying oil diluted with oil of turpen- tine very tiiinly, on tlie places intended to imitate the T *■ 198 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. more transparent parts of the tortoise shell. When the vermilion is dry, brush over the whole with the black varnish tempered to a due consistence with oil of tur- pentine ; and when it is set and firm, put the w^ork in- to a stove, where it may underj^o a very strong heat, and must be continued a considerable time, if even three rveeks or a month, it will be the better. Of staining horn to imitate tortoise shell. The horn to be stained must be first pressed into proper plates, or scales, or other flat form. The fol- lowing mixture must then be prepared. “ Take of quicklime two parts, and of litharge one, and temper them to the consistence of a soft paste with soap lye.” Put this paste over all the parts of the hom, except such as are proper to be left transparent, in order to the greater resemblance of the tortoise shell. The horn must then remain thus covered \vith the paste till it be thoroughly dry : when the paste being brushed off, the 1 horn will be found partly opake, and partly transparent, in the manner of tortoise shell, and when put over a foil, of the kind of latten called assidue, will be scarcely distinguishable from it. It requires some degree of fan- cy and judgment, to dispose of the paste in such a manner as to form a variety of transparent parts of dif- ferent magnitude and figure, to look like the effect of nature ; and it v/ill be an improvement to add semi- i transparent parts : a\ hich mav be done by mixing whi- ting with some of the paste to weaken its operation in particular places : by which spots of a reddish brown will be produced ; that, if properly interspersed, espe- cially on the edges of the dark parts, will greatly in- crease as w^^ll the beautv of the work, as its similitude with the real ’ortoise shell. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 199 Of Gilding, proper for the Edges of Books and Paper' There are several various methods, with respect to the cemeut used, by which the edges of books or pa- per may be gilt : as strong gum water, or insinglass size, or glover’s size, may be employed : but as the gum water and weaker sizes, are apt to nm beyond the edge and stick the leaves together, isinglass melted A\ ith. the addition of some common proof spirit of wine, and a sixth part of honey or sugar candy is greatly pre- ferable ; but a third of bole armoniac well powdered must be added. The following composition has been likeudse appro- ved of for this purpose. “ Take bole armoniac and sugar candy well powder- ed, each equal parts ; mix them with ’.vhites of eggs beaten to an oily consistence, and the cement will be fit for use.” In order to the using any of these cements, tlie pa- per, whether it be in quires or books, should be well cut, and polished on the edges to be gilt ; and then sti'ongly screwed dorni by the press ; in which ‘itate, it is to be brushed over, first with a little of the cement Avithout the sugar candy, or the bole ; and when that is dry, either with the cement above given, or any oth- er solution of gum or size with the proper propor- tion of the bole : after which it may be suffered to dry, and then water polished by nibbing it with a. fine linen raff slightlv moistened. It is then in a state fit for receiving the gold, only it must be again gently mois- tened at that time, and the leaves may then be laid on, being cut according to the breadth they are to cover, and pressed closely down by a cotton ball, and after the gilding is thoroughly dry and firm, it may be polish- ed in the manner of the foregoing kinds. 200 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. Of Staining JV lod of Mahogany Color. Mahogony color is the most useful of any stain for wood (especially since the fineering with different col* ors is out of fashion) as it is much practised at present for chairs and other furniture made in imitation of ma- hogony; which when Avell managed, may be brought to have a very near resemblance. This stain may be of different hues, as the natural wood varies greatly, being of all the intermediate tints between the red brown and purple brown, according to the age, or sometimes the original nature of different pieces. For the light red brown, use a decoction of madder, or fustic wood, ground in water ; the proportion may be half a pound of madder and a quarter of a pound of fustic, to a gallon : or in default of fustic, an ounce of the yellow berries may be used. This must be brush- ed over the wood to be stained, while boiling hot, till the due color be obtained ; and, if the wood be kindly grained, it wall have greatly tlie appearance of nev/ ma- hogany. The same effect, nearly, may be produced by the tincture of dragon’s blood and turmeric root, in spirit of vr ine ; by increasing or diminishing the proportion of each of \r hich ingredients, tlie brow n stain wiay be a a- ried to a more rcd or yellow cast at pleasure. This succeeds better upon wood which has already some tinge of brown, than upon whiter. h"or the dark mahogony, take the infusion of madder made as above, except the exchanging the fustic for 2 ounces of logw ood, and wdien the wood to be stained has been several times brushed over, and is again dry, it must be slightly brushed over w ith water in which pearlashes have been dissolved, in the prcporticn of a- bout a quarter of an ounce to a quart. MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 201 Any stains of the intermediate colors may be made by mixing these ingredients, or varying the proportion of them. Where these stains are used for better kind of work, the wood should be afterwards varnished with three or four coats of seed-lac varnish ; but for coarse wo^'k, the varnish of resin and seed-lac may be emplyed,'^ or they may be only well rubbed over with diydng oil. Of Stabling JFood Red. ? For a bright red stain for wood, make a strong infu- sion of Brazil in stale urine, or water impregnated with pearlashes in the proportion of an ounce to a gallon ; to a gallon of either of which, the proportion of Brazil W'ood must be a pound ; w hich being put to them, they must stand together two or three days, often stirring the mixture. With this infusion strained and made boiling hot, brush over the wood to be stained, till it ap- pears sti'ongly colored ; then, while yet wet, brush it over with allum water nrade in the proportion of tw o ounces of allum to a quart of water. Fora less bright red, dissolve an ounce of dragon’s blood in a pint of spirit of w ine, and brush over the wood with the tincture, till the stain appears to be as strong as desired. For a pink or rose red, add to a gallon of the above infusion of Brazilwood two additional ounces of the pearlashes and use it as w’as before directed ; but it is necessary, in this case, to brush the wood over oftea with the allum w afer. By increasing the proportion of pearlashes, the red may be rendered yet paler ; but itis- proper, w hen more than this quantity is added, to make die allum water stronger. 202 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT, Of Isinglass Glue, “ Isinglass glue is made by dissolving beaten insin* glass in water ; and, having strained it through a coarse linen cloth, evaporating it again to such a consistence, that being cold the glue will be perfectly hard and dry.” A great improvement may be made in this glue by adding spirit of wine or brandy to it after it is strained, and then renewing the evaporation till it gain the due consistence. Some soak the isinglass in the spirit or brandy for some time before it is dissolved, in order to make the glue, and add no water, but let the spirit sup- ply the place of it. This isinglass glue is far preferable to common glue for nicer purposes ; being much stronger and less liable to be softened either by heat or moisture. Preparation of a very strong Compound Glue. “ Take common glue in very small or thin bits, and isinglass glue, and infuse them in as much spirit of wine as will cover them, for at least tw^enty-four hours. Then melt the w^hole together, and while they are over the fire, add as much powdered chalk as wall render them an opake white.” Composition of common black ink, “Take one gallon of soft water, and pour it boiling hot on one pound of powdered galls, put into a proper vessel. Stop the mouth of the vessel, and set it in th.e sun in summer, or in wnnter where it may be warmed by any fire, and let it stand two or three days. Add tlien half a pound of green vitriol pow^dered ; and hav- ing stirred the mixture well together wfith a wooden spatula, let it stand again for two or three days, repeat- MAUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. 303 ing the stirring ; when add further to it five ounces of gum x\rabic dissolved in a quart of boiling water, and lastly two ounces of allum ; after which the ink should be strained through a coarse linen aif)th for use,” Preparation of red writing ink. “ Take of the raspings of Brazil wood a q uarter of a pound, and infuse them two or three days in vinegar, which should be colorless when it can be so procured. Boil the infusion then an hour over a gentle fire, and afterguards filter it, while hot, through paper laid in an earthen cullender. Put it again over the fire, and dis- solve in it, first half an ounce of gum Arabic ; and af- terwards of allum and white sug-ar, each half an ounce. Care should be taken that the Brazil wood be not adulterated with the Braziletto or Campeachy (com- monly called peachy) wood ; which is mostly the case, when it is ground ; and though a very detrimental fraud in all instances of the application of Brazil wood to the forming bright red colors, cannot yet be perceived after the mixture of the raspings, but by trial in using them ; it is therefore much the best tvay, when it is wanted for purposes like this, to procure the true Brazil wood in pieces, and to scrape it with a knife, or rasp it \vith a very bright file, (but all rust of iron must l)e carefully avoided) by which means all possibility of sophistica- tion is of course prevented. Red ink may likewise be prepared, by the above pro- cess, of white wine instead of vinegar ; but it should be sour, or disposed to be so, otherwise, a third or fourth of ^nneg3r should be added, in order to its taking the stronger tincture from the wood. Sm^ll beer has been sometimes used for the same purpose ; but the ink will not be so bright, and when it is used vinegar should be added, and the quantity of gum Arabic di minished, and the sugar wholly omittedp 304 MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT. Preparation of red ink from vermilion. “Take the glair of four eggs, a tea spoonful of white sugar or sugar cdlljtly beaten to powder, and as much spirit of wine ; and beat them together till tliey be of the consistence of oil. Then add such a proportion of vermilion as will produce a red color, sufficiently strong, and keep thd mixture in a small phial or well stopped ink bottle foi^ use. /fhe composition should be well shaken together before it be used.” Instead of the glair of eggs, gum water is freqtient- ly used, but thin size made of isinglass with a little hon- ey, is much better for the purpose. Composition of the best hard red sealing wax. “ Take of shell-lac, well powdered, two parts, of SOS'-' m and vermillion powered also each one part. Mix them well together, and melt them over a gentle nre ; and when the ingredients seem thoroughly incorp^a- ted, work the wax into sticks. Where shell-lac Cannot be procured, seed-lac may be substituted for it.” The qua'itity of vermillion, which is much the dear- est ingredient, may be diminished without any injury to the sealing wax, where it is not required to be of the highest and brightest red color : and the resin should be of the whitest kind, as that improves the effect of the vermilliojt. Care should be .taken not to use too strong a fire in melting the ingredients ; aiid to remove them out of the heat, as soon as they be well commixed ; for if any evaporation^of tlie more volatile parts of the shell or red iac,;or resin, be suffered, the wax is rendered propor- •tjonably brittle. END. ( i XXo I THE GEiry CENieR LIBRARY K- A;jlv:r .-ri'}t- W4 >WuC-H-3£ C“>3{;->5?i:i:-;:v: