jesrh ' * . i ^P*T^Pr <^' . f^^^^ HB 81 v« . " ■ London . Published AW?Z4 ^iSj^.fy G.A: W.B.Whittaker, 13. Ave. Maria Lane. . 1< V \ "A STATISTICAL, COMMERCIAL, AND POLITICAL DESCRIPTION OF VENEZUELA, TRINIDAD, MARGARITA, and TOBAGO : CONTAINING Fartous &nttfrotes an* Ofcsarbattons, ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE PAST AND PRESENT STATE OF THESE INTERESTING COUNTRIES ; FROM THE FRENCH OF M . LAVAYSSE : WITH AN INTRODUCTION AND EXPLANATORY NOTES, By THE EDITOR. Hie patet ingeniis campus : certusque merenti Stat favor : ornatur propriis industriadonis! — Claudian. " I leave to your sovereign authority the reform or repeal of all my ordinances, statutes, and decrees; bat I implore you to confirm the com- plete EMANCIPATION OF THE SLAVES, AS I WOULD BEG MY LIFE, OR THB SALVATION OF THE REPUBLIC!!!" Installation Speech of General Bolivar, Feb. 15th, 1819. LONDON: PRINTED FOR G. and W. B. WHITTAKER, 13, AVK-MAKIA LANE. 1820. ■ I I A W. Shackell, Printer, Johnson's-court, Fleet-street, London. mm mRR TO MAJOR GENERAL D'EVEREUX, $c. Panegyric on the Custom House, and Revenue Laws of Great Britain. — Remarks on the Colonial System of France, and Con- sequences of the prohibitory Regulations of Spain. — List of various Duties, Imposts, kc. — Privileges accorded to French Settlers in the Spanish Colonies by the Family Compact. — An- naul Amount of Exports from Venezuela. — Concluding Remark s. 234 gEBH nM CONTENTS. XXXVll CHAP. V. Page. Trinidad. — Geographical Description of the Island. — Guaraouns. — Their singular Mode of Living, Trade, and Habitations. — Mouths of the Orinoco. — Guarapiche. — Gulph of Paria. — Scenery. — Port Spain — Rivers of Trinidad. — Its Bays and Harbours. — Natural Canals. — Fish. — Mangrove Trees. — Birds. — The Aspiialtum Lake. — Its Peculiarities. — Volcanic Re- mains. — Mountains. — Conjectures. — Las Cuevas. — Nature of the Soil — Excavations at Guadaloupe. — Crater of Erin. — A new Metal. ..... .275 CHAP. VI. Climate. — Seasons. — Winds. — Rain. — Rarity of Storms and Hurricanes. — State of the Thermometer. — An Experiment. — Quantity of Rain. — Inundation of the Orinoco. — Tides. — Effects of increased Cultivation. — Various Degrees of Heat. — Observations on the Effects of Climate, and Precautions recom- mended.— Spring or fine Season — Remarks. — Dews. . 306 CHAP. VII. Historical Sketch of Trinidad — Its Discovery.— First Establish- ment of the Spaniards. — Sir Walter Raleigh's Visit to the Island. — His Treaty with the Indians, and Attack on San Joseph. — Eulogium on the Soil and Climate of Venezuela. — Blind Policy of Spain. — Project of M. de Saint Laurent. — Change in the Island's Condition. — Rapid Increase of its Population. — Don Joseph Chacon. — His Policy. — Port Spain. — French Refu- gees. — Inhabitants in 1797. — First Sugar Plantation. — Capture of the Island by Sir Ralph Abercrombie. — Progressive State of Population, Agriculture, and Commerce between 1783 and 1807 321 CHAP. VIII. Tobago. — Historical Sketch of the Island — Its Discovery and original Inhabitants. — First Establishment of the Dutch there. — The Lampsins. — Ceded to the Duke of Courlandby James I. — Manifestoes of Charles I. in favour of the Duke. — The Island is attacked by Sir Tobias Bridges, and the French Admi- ral d'Estrees.— Captain Pointz. — Tobago is ceded to Great Britain.— Treaty of Aix la Chapelle.— State of the Island in ■ WT~ XXXV1H I'ONTKNTS. *V 17G5. — Messrs. Franklyn and Robley. — Taken by the French in 1781 Reflections. — Recaptured by General Cuyler in 1793. — Present State of Cultivation. — Mr. Robley 's Plantation and Establishment. — His numerous Improvements and Character. — Scotch Emigrants — Reflections. — Natural Productions of the Island. — Plants. — Birds. — Fish — Quadrupeds.— Scarborough. — Currents, &c. ...... CHAP. IX, 341 Inquiries concerning the Negroes. — Their intellectual Capabili- ties. — M. Lilet. — Opinion of Camper and Blumenbach. — Difference between Negro Tribes. — How they are improved. — Blanchetier Bei.levue. — Cause of Crime and Degene- racy in the Negroes. — Instances of Fortitude and Generosity among them. — Anecdote. — Allusion to the Cruelties exercised at Surinam. — Singular Instance of Resolution in Suffering. — Heroic Speech of a Negro — Anecdotes. — Pride and Vanity of Negroes. — Affection for their Children. — Causes of Infanticide amongst them. — Poisoning prevalent. — Mode of punishing the Delinquents. — Objections answered. — Reflections. — Advan- tages of Freedom. — Effects of the Slave Trade — Sir William Young's Plantation. — Treatment and Management of the Slaves there. — Mulattoes. — Their harsh Treatment by Europeans, and Condition in the Colonies. . . . 366 CHAP. X. Indians. — Classedmto Caribs and Parias. — Opinion of Rochefort, and contradictory Accounts of that Writer. — Analogies. — Religion of the early Tribes. — Sorcery. — Sylvester. — Anecdote. — Curious Dialogue. — First Establishment of Missions. — Com- parison. — Reflections. — Jesuits. — Mission of St. Joseph.. — Mass of the Indians. — A Review. — Indi \.ns of Guiana. — Anecdote. Degraded State of some Tribes. — Custom of selling their Wives and Children. — Indians of Trinidad. — Their uncivilized State. — Nefarious Conduct of some English Proprietors. — The Arrouages. — Their Trade. — Accouchement of the Indian Mo- thers. — Conjectures. — Account of the Black Caribs of St. Vin- cent's. — Visit to Grand Sable, and curious Description of a Carib Chief. — Concluding Remarks. . . . 398 Hi ICK *$r CONTENTS. XXXIX APPENDIX. Page. Containing Official Documents, Extracts from General Bolivar's Speech, &c. &c. . . . 443 ERRATA. Page 1, fox " Wall" in beading to Chap, read " Gual," p. 23. 3, for " accomplished for the degradation of humanity" read " could effect for," Ac 60, for, " in which" read " where." .... 120, for " Caoni," read " Caroni." DESCRIPTION OF VENEZUELA, t Carae- ^as and Cumana, However, eulogize Tolosa. 10 I'OMCY OF SPAIN, The plan of distribution, which the chiefs did not delay in turning to an abuse, was changed in many colonies for that of the encomiendas. There was this difference between these two modes : in the last, the Spanish chief, or inspector of the Indians, was prohibited from residing in the same village with them. The encomendero was a kind of inspector or surveyor, appointed to visit them on certain days, to decide on their differences, and induce them to renounce the customs of savage life ; also to inspire a taste for agriculture, arts, and civilization ; in short, to aid the missionaries with all his influence. This system was certainly preferable to that of the repartimiento. It may be seen by the prohibition which the legislature placed against the encomenderos residing in the same village with the Indians, that the cause of humanity had made considerable progress. It was feared, with good reason, that the con- stant presence of arbitrary commanders, among artless and ignorant men, would end in habituating those chiefs to treat them as slaves. Notwith- standing all the precautions taken by a sovereign who resided nearly two thousand leagues from these new states; as generally happens, the enco- menderos concluded by abusing their authority, and appropriating the labour of the poor Indians lo themselves. " The Indians," says M. de Humboldt, " whose liberty had been proclaimed in vain by Queen Isabella, were, until then, the slaves of the whites. ~W0 ENCOMENDEROS. II who had collected them promiscuously. By the establishment of the encomiendas, slavery took a more regular form. To put an end to the dis- sentions among the conquerors, the remains of the conquered people were distributed to them ; the Indians, divided into tribes of several hundreds of families, had masters appointed in Spain from among the soldiers who had distin- guished themselves in the conquest, and among the lawyers (Licentiados,) that the court sent to govern the provinces, and serve as a counter- poise to the usurping power of the generals. A great number of the encomiendas, and the best, were given to the monks. Religion, which, by its principles, ought to be favourable to liberty, was debased in availing itself of the slavery of the people. This distribution of the Indians attached them to the soil ; their labour belonged to the encomenderos. The vassal frequently took the family name of his master ; many Indian families bear Spanish names to this day, without having ever mixed their blood with that of Europeans. The court of Madrid thought it gave protectors to the Indians ; but it had increased the evil, by rendering the oppression more systematic. " Such was the state of the Mexican cultivators in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Since the eighteenth, their lot has become progressively more fortunate : the families of the conquerors are partly extinct : the encomiendas, considered as fiefs, have not been distributed anew ; the 12 rilAKLKN IIF. viceroys, and especially the audiencias, have watched over the interests of the Indians; theif liberties, and in many provinces, even their com- forts, have increased gradually. Above all, it was Charles III. who, by measures no less wise than energetic, was the benefactor of the na- tives: he abolished the encomiendas, and prohi- bited the repartimientos, by which the corregi- dores arbitrarily constituted themselves the cre- ditors, and consequently masters of the labour of the natives, in providing for them, at exorbi- tant terms, horses, mules, anddress. The establish- ment of intendancies, which is due to the adminis- tration of the Count de Galvez, has become a memorable era for the benefit of the Indians. The annoyances to which the cultivator was in- cessantly exposed on the part of the Spanish and Indian subaltern magistrates, have greatly diminished under the active inspection of the superintendents ; the natives begin to enjoy the advantages which the laws, generally mild and humane, have granted them, but of which they were deprived in ages of barbarism and op- pression. The first appointment of persons to whom the court confided the important places of superintendents, or of governors of provinces, was very fortunate. Among the twelve who adminis- tered the country in 1804, there was not one whom the public accused of corruption^ or want of integrity."* ' £cc hi- K:-:.;t\ en New Spam. .MKXKANS. 13 Heaven forbid that I should endeavour to palliate the crimes of those rapacious and unjust men who availed themselves of the gifts of civi- lization only for the purpose of reducing the unhappy Indians to slavery ! The observations of M. de Humboldt are equally just and wise ; when the Spaniards conquered Mexico, they found a people who had made a great progress in civilization, and to whom there was only wanting a knowledge of the art of writing, to be on a level with the greater part of the European na- tions of that period. The Mexicans were cultiva- tors, and practised many of our mechanical and chemical arts : a good government, and wise laws, would have exacted the adoration of a people that groaned under the double tyranny of a Mon- tezuma, and the most debasing feudality. But, the aboriginal natives of Venezuela, were then in a very diiferent situation : they had made no advances from a savage state, scarcely culti- vating a few roots, and depending for the re- mainder of their wants on the spontaneous pro- ductions of nature, which were lavished in a cli- mate so inviting to indolence. The Caribbs, Pa- rias, and Caraccayans, had not arrived at the knowledge of domesticating animals ; they were not even herdsmen or shepherds, and conse- quently far inferior to the Bedouins and Tartars. Something more than mere exhortations was therefore requisite to withdraw them from such a life, and induce them to become cultivators. mHBnm 14 Indian Tiunrs. Even to this clay the Indian tribes of the new world, so far from being ameliorated in their condition, have become completely depraved, and are almost extinct in the neighbourhood of European settlements, particularly the British and French, which have not subjected them to their laws. Since the abolition of the Jesuits, drunk- enness, licentiousness, and the small pox, have destroyed nearly all the communities that lived in the vicinity of the French and English posses- sions in the two Americas. At Cayenne, for ex- ample, more than sixty thousand Indians were counted in 1720; and fifteen years after they had lost their Jesuit missionaries, that is to say in 1777, there remained only four or five thousand ; in 1809, there were scarcely two hundred! It is not much more than ten vears since the savages of Brazil were still subjected to a kind of feudal system ; the native population, far from becoming annihilated, as in the neighbourhood of the British and French possessions, had increased as well as in the Spanish colonies. At that period M. de Souza Coutinho, governor of Grand Para, liberated by order of his government, two hun- dred thousand Indians, all cultivators, carpenters, cabinet-makers, masons, -&c. in that province only. If the ancestors of those savages had been abandoned to themselves, and not collected toge- gether under the care of missionaries and Euro- pean chiefs, the vicinity of the white colonists, of whom they contract only the vices, when they Hi TIIF.IH EXTIN'CTiONi I are not held in subjection by a vigilant and steady police, would no doubt have reduced them to as small a number as those who vegetate, and are on the point of extinction in French Guiana and Canada. It is truly surprising, that a country which be- gan under such unfavourable auspices in 1529, should have had a considerable population in 1560. At that period, the towns of Cumana, Coro, Bar- quisimeto, Palmes de Nirga, Tocuyo, Borburato, Valencia, Truxillo, and Collado were already founded. The district of the Lake Maracaibo, which at first formed the government of Vene- zuela, that has since given its name to the general government of Caraccas, and which now forms one of the states of the Venezuelan confederation, was first visited in 1499, by Alfonso Ojeda. This adventurer did not form any establishment there, and only thought of plunder. The first colonial establishment, that of Coro, was made in 1527, by Ampues : in the following year the colony was delivered to the Welsers, under the tyranny of whom it languished until 1545. It was therefore, in the short space of twenty- five years that the towns mentioned after Cu- mana and Coro, were founded. No historical record informs us of the population of Ma- racaibo or Coro in 1560; but according to a ma- nuscript which I received from a respectable inhabitant of the Caraccas in 1807, the popula- tion of Maracaibo, in 1560, was about 16,000. 16 population: The resources of that country, and perseverance of the first colonists, must have been great, to produce such an increase, without any commer- cial connection with the mother country. Pre- vious to 1660, no ship had ever sailed from Spain to exchange its productions for those of the colony; the intercourse of the Welsers having had for their object only the discovery and working of the mines. But a considerable population being created by the marriages of Europeans with the Indian women, those colonists sent a deputy to Spain in 1555, calling upon then- sovereign for a reform in the colonial adminis- tration, and permission to despatch annually from Spain to the port of Borburata, at the expense and risque of the colonists, a vessel, whose cargo should be liable to pay only half the excessive duties then levied on cargoes that arrived at, or were sent from America. This favour was grant- ed in December, 1560: from that time until 1575, a ship went every year to Borburato. But the town of Caraccas having been founded in 1565, by Diego Lozada, and that part of the colony becoming more populous than the district of Maracaibo, owing to the superior fertility of its soil and delightful climate, the ship ceased to visit Borburata from 1576, thenceforth frequent- ing La Guyra, the nearest port to the Carac- cas. Pearls were the principal object taken in return : a little cocoa, vanilla, indigo, arnotlo, and deer skins, formed the remainder of the PEARL FISHERIES. 17 the cargo. But the rapacity and want of pre- caution with which the pearl fishery was carried on, about the Island of Margarita, caused the almost total destruction of the oysters that pro- duced them, at the same time that it occasioned the loss of thousands of Indians who were forci- bly employed as divers in the fishery. This oc- cupation having been fruitless, during the last hundred and fifty years, it has been abandoned, and the oysters in which the pearls are found, have again multiplied on the coasts of that island. Jn 1807, I saw a person, who had procured about four hundred of them, in the course of the pre- ceding year. The colony remained for a long time in the same state ; its population increasing by the abundance of its provisions, but unable to en- rich itself from the want of commerce. The Dutch, who had formed an establishment at Curagoa in 1634, did not, however, delay enter- ing into commercial connections with the Spanish colonists ; agriculture then assumed another as- pect, and cocoa soon became the principal article of cultivation. The animals received from Eu- rope, were better managed ; they have since multiplied to such a degree, that the colonists having many more than they could keep, horses, asses, mules and oxen, have at length ran wild in the desert plains and forests, where travellers and hunters find them in herds of many thousands. When the relative increase and prosperity of 18 COMMERCIAL MONOPOLIES. this colony was known in Europe, and also the large profits gained there by the Dutch in their contraband trade, the Spanish merchants peti- tioned their government for permission to send cargoes out. But, as it was necessary to have a special licence from the king, for the despatch of each vessel, which licences were very expen- sive, and as they were granted on the express condition that they should be sent from Seville only, as also that they should return to dis- charge at that port, not to mention the enor- mous imposts exacted on leaving Spain and reaching America : it was found totally impos- sible to support a competition with the Dutch interlopers in the new world : consequently the two vessels which were sent from Seville in 1655 and 1G56, made ruinous voyages. Other merchants having attempted to renew this trade by sending three ships in 1680, were not more fortunate, in consequence of the imbecile rapa- city of their government. The company of Gui- puscoa was formed in 1722. The object of this association was to engross the trade of the colony, to the exclusion of the Dutch. Its first opera- tions were favourable to the colonists, and pro- fitable to the share-holders ; but the old spirit of insatiable avarice, that always gains the ascen- dency in commercial monopolies, did not fail soon to render the company odious to both colo- nists and government. Its agents having found it more profitable to trade with the Dutch in EAST INDIA COMPANY. 10 CWacoa, than with Spain, ended by sending very few vessels to the latter country. It is curi- ous to observe how in all times, and in every nation, this monstrous avarice of exclusive com- panies has produced the same results, and con- cluded by effecting their destruction. It is con* fidently said, that, for about fifteen years past, the British East India Company sell licences or protections to neutrals to trade to their ports in India. This knavery, (what other term can more appropriately be applied to it ?) has produced some colossal fortunes in England and America, whilst the trade was prohibited to the merchants of England, Ireland and Scotland.'^ * It is sincerely to be hoped that the above assertion was merely a report: if otherwise, the author's language is certainly not too strong; and whether true or false, the recent alteration in the East India Company's charter, has removed the evil. God knows the mercantile sovereigns of the eas(, have enough of sins to answer for, without the disreputable charge of adding to their revenue in the manner stated by M. Lavaysse. But the author is by no means singular in his dislike to exclusive privileges in commerce. The Abbe de Pradt, whose enlightened opinions on the subject cannot be too often read, or highly praised, observes — " To see the use which the moderns have made of exclusive commercial companies ; to contemplate this practice as consecrated by nations and ages ; to compare the system with those effects which it has never failed to produce, together with the expences into which it has led the mother country and her colonies ; it is scarcely possible to avoid being surprized at the respect one has felt towards institutions, that have been thus sanctioned no less by the imposing authority of c2 20 FREE TRADE. The company of Guipuscoa, after having ex- perienced various modifications, was at last abo- lished in 1778, by an edict of Charles III., to which the Spaniards have given the term of the " edict of free trade." From that period, as glorious for the monarch as it was fortunate for the mother country and its colonies, is to be dated an increase of population and wealth which can scarcely be believed, under a govern- ment vicious in every other respect. The popu- their authors, than the seal of time. To buy at a low price from the producer, and sell dearly to the consumer ; to graduate the proportion of abundance, not on public want, but according to the interest of the privileged few, has always, and ever will be, the maxim of exclusive companies : they will think much less of providing for those who have the misfortune of being left to their mercy, than of keeping away those who wish to partici- pate in their profits. People have invariably adduced the ad- vantages of exclusive commerce to palliate the odious parts of it. But who can ever believe that a nation ought to be excluded for its advantage ? It is high time to speak in the language of truth, and proclaim that the word exclusive should be hence- forth banished from the vocabulary of every civilized people, and confined to that of Turkey or other countries equally en- lightened!" — See Chap. X. of the Abbe's famous work on the Colonies. Nor is our own celebrated political economist Adam Smith much more partial to trading companies. See the admir- able remarks in Vol. II. p. 505, et passim, of his admirable work on the Wealth of Nations, wherein that independent writer does not hesitate to declare mercantile companies incapable of consulting their true interests when they become sovereigns, finally considering them as a public nuisance. — Ed. REVOLUTIONARY PRINCIPLES. 21 lation of Venezuela alone has more than doubled in the space of twenty -nine years ; it was a million of souls in 1809. The edict of 1778 was issued most oppor- tunely, at a moment when the British colonies of North America had risen to shake off the yoke- of the parent state ; so that the Spanish colonists testified no desire to imitate their neighbours, and seemed contented with what was granted to them. The principles of the French revolution did not as yet inflame their minds, though some individuals endeavoured to convince the people, they also had a right to civil and political liberty. It is, however, a singular fact, that whilst Great Britain was at war with France, under the spe- cious pretence of preserving herself from its prin- ciples, her ministers no sooner heard of the treaty of Basle, by which Spain made peace with France, than they lavished the public trea- sures to propagate ideas that had been dissipated in France, as soon as the commotions insepar- able from such a great revolution had ceased. Scarcely had the Island of Trinidad been deliver- ed to them, than they established a focus of in- surrection, destined not only to render Spanish America independent, but to overturn and ruin it like our colonies. Historical impartiality re- quires me to state that His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, as well as many distinguished personages in England, expressed their indigna- tion at this perfidious mode of making war. 22 STATE PRISONOUS. At the time that Great Britain took possession of Trinidad, great discontents had prevailed in the province of Caraccas for some months, owing to the exactions recently committed by the officers of the customs, and the vexations practised by a police magistrate. During these occurrences, three Spanish state prisoners arrived at La Guayra, condemned to imprisonment for life in one of the forts. These were men of great talents : one of them, Picornel, had been surnamed by his coun- trymen, the Spanish Mirabeau ; they availed themselves of the public discontent, to interest the commander and officers of the garrison in their fate. Farenheit's thermometer is generally at ninety degrees in the casemates, in which they were ordered to be confined, a circumstance that excited the pity of the garrison. The commander, therefore, took upon himself to allow them the fort as their prison. The eloquence of Picornel, and the singular talents of his two companions, gave rise to the esteem and friendship of all those who saw T them ; the inhabitants of the neighbour- hood obtained leave to visit the fort. On perceiv- ing every one, even to the priests and monks, exasperated against the administrators of the colony, the triumvirate formed the bold project of delivering the country from the yoke of its oppressors. Don Joseph de Espana, corregidor of Macuto, and Don Manuel Gual, captain of engi- THE IK ESCAPE. 23 neers, both natives of Caraccas, undertook to organize this revolution. The prisoners, however, finding that the con- spirators were not sufficiently forward in putting their project into execution, and fearing a disco- very, made their escape : soon after one of them became mad and died. The 14th July, 1797, was the day fixed by Espana and Gaul, for raising the standard of independence : those conspirators were not Catalines; they were the most distin- guished men in the colony for their talents, virtues, fortune, and even their birth. Their object was to possess themselves of the heads of the govern- ment, to keep them as hostages, and treat them with the greatest kindness, especially the Captain General Carbonel, who detested, and had even endeavoured by every means in his power to put an end to the crying vexations committed by cer- tain administrators : their plan w T as imitated in all points by the congress of Venezuela, when it declared itself independent of the Junta of Cadiz, in 1811. On the 13th July, 1797, in the evening, a conspirator seized with fear, went to the cathe- dral and rang one of the bells. It is thus that a cri- minal acts in Spain, after having committed mnr- der, in order that a priest may go and give him absolution, and secure impunity for him. This man required they should conduct him to the arch- bishop, to whom he promised to reveal the con- spiracy, on condition that the Captain General and the Audiencia would guarantee his life, What 24 ESPANA. he demanded was granted. Orders were suddenly issued to arrest all the persons he accused : Espafia and Gual, who were at La Guayra, had timely notice to escape ; which they effected in a boat to Curacoa, from whence they went to Trinidad, where I became acquainted with them. The other conspirators, to the number of seventy-two, were arrested and imprisoned. The colonial government sent a despatch to Spain, to give in- telligence of this occurrence. The king, after having received the official report, convinced that his Venezuelan subjects had been driven to despair and rebellion by the unheard-of exactions of his administrators, ordered that the conspira- tors should be treated with clemency and sent to Spain. But the latter had reason to fear, that if they were sent, the truth would have been made known to the sovereign, and themselves sacrificed to the just resentment of the colonists. This was the motive which induced them, instead of obey- ing the order of their sovereign, to linger out the process of the prisoners ; and it may be well suppos- ed they did not omit informing the minister, rea- sons of state required that, at least, some of the principal heads should fall. During the above period Espafia was at Trini- dad, the most unhappy of mankind, by his sepa- ration from a wife and children whom he tenderly loved. It was not unknown at Trinidad that the king had recommended clemency : this intelli- gence, and the desire of seeing his family again, RETURNS TO THE CARACCAS. 25 induced him to adopt the resolution of returning to his country, in spite of all that those who were most interested in his fate could say to dissuade him from it. He, therefore, returned to the neighbourhood of Caraccas, where he remained concealed for some time, at the house of a friend, where he had the consolation of seeing his wife and children occasionally. It. would seem as if the Audiencia had, until then, respected the king's order, only for the purpose of attracting Espaiia and Gual into the country, two men whose talents, courage, and popularity they most feared. As had beenforboded by his friends, the retreat of Espaiia was discovered, the house surrounded, and himself taken. The trial of the conspirators had now been carried on for nearly two years ; every one supposed that, in consequence of the king's or- ders., they would be no further punished than by sending them to Spain. During those events, a new captain general came to take pos- session of the government of those provinces : scarcely had Espaiia been taken, when the trial, which many supposed forgotten, was renewed : this created the utmost consternation, and excited a great fermentation in the country. The new captain general, Don Miguel de Vasconcellos, received anonymous letters, threatening another disturbance, if the life of Don Joseph de Espaiia should be endangered. Those letters produced no other effect than that of irritating him. Vas- 26 EM PER AN'. concellos possessed neither the knowledge, virtue? nor the calm firmness of Carbonel, bis prede- cessor : yet he was not malicious or tyrannical, but one of those narrow-minded men who conceal their weakness by a degree of violence, to which they endeavour in vain to give the appearance of greatness of mind and fortitude. Instead of con- trolling the subalterns, he neglected every part of the administration, except the military ; complaint and murmurs recommenced, and the oppressors of the colony represented those com- plaints and murmuring to him as indicating a spirit of revolt. Severe measures were redoubled at the moment when most people called for, and all would have been satisfied by a removal of the abuses. As a proof that it was the excess of op- pression, and not the contagion of revolutionary principles, that inspired the inhabitants of Ca- raccas with the desire of throwing off the Spanish yoke, it should be remarked that the province of Cumana, or New Andalusia, did not participate in those troubles, although both these provinces were adjacent ; and the English, who had then much more commercial intercourse with Cumana than the Caraccas, had omitted nothing to propa- gate a spirit of independence in New Andalusia. But the latter was governed by a man of inte- grity, and of a disinterested, firm character, Km- paran : under such heads, symptoms of discontent or revolt are never manifested. But to return to the process against Espana ■ FATE OF ESPANA. 27 and the other conspirators ; the threats addressed to the captain general produced no other effect than that of hastening their ruin. It was disco- vered afterwards that those anonymous menaces had been fabricated by the auditor of war, Lav- nes ; who, seeing that the Captain General Vas- concellos inclined to mercy, invented the above diabolical stratagem, to exasperate him against the accused. This malignant magistrate, who had long sold his decisions at Trinidad and Ca- raccas to the highest bidder, and who the con- gress of Venezuela had merely banished, knew that if Espafia should obtain access to the throne, he would reveal his numerous extortions. Seven of the accused were condemned to die ; one of them for contumacy. Five were executed at La Guayra in the beginning of May, 1799, and on the 8th of the same month, Don Joseph de Es- pafia was drawn and quartered at Caraccas. " Con- ducted to execution," says a celebrated writer, whom I shall quote on this occasion, " he saw the approach of death with the courage of a man born for great actions."* Thirty-three of the other pri- soners were condemned to the gallies : there re- mained in prison thirty-two, against whom there were no proofs ; they were sent to Spain : Charles IV. pardoned them in 1802, and gave them em- ployments, on condition that they should never return to their own country. M. de Humboldt. CHARACTER OF ESPANA. During the time proceedings were carrying on against Espana, one of his relations went to a Scotchman residing at Caraccas, who was the secret agent and banker of his government in that capital : the Venezuelan told the agent that the relations and friends of Espana had subscribed to form a sum of thirty thousand dol lars, by means of which they would save his life : the half of this sum was to be paid to Lav- nes, who had put that price on his escape, and the remaining fifteen thousand dollars were des- tined for the jailor, who had promised to run away with him. A boat was waiting for them in the port of La Guayra ; the prisoner's friends were deficient of eight thousand dollars ; every species of security was offered to obtain from him that sum by way of loan. This man, who had then more than a hundred thousand dollars in his chest, and who had inveigled the too credulous Espana into his schemes, was deaf and insensible to their proposals ! I was acquainted with Espana : he had one of those frank and open countenances, but pensive and full of sensibility, such as 1 have sometimes seen, though very rarely, so fine, in the new world ; a primordial type, of which scarcely any traces remain, except in the Pyrenees, Switzer- land, the mountains of Scotland, and in some elevated regions in which the inhabitants have not been much intermingled with their neigh- bours. He was descended from an illustrious Bis- r ?. 'J?*-;. <*mi GUAL. 29 cayan family, transplanted to America, his son went to Guadaloupe, and from thence to France, where he has found friends and a second country. Gual, abandoned by the British government in 1801, soon afterwards died of a broken heart in Trinidad. It appears that in that year, Great Britain had deemed it proper to defer the anarchy of the Spanish colonies ; for the Governor of Trinidad ceased to pension the persons he em- ployed for that purpose, and to encourage those who were really desirous of the independence of their country. This requires some explanation.* There is a period when colonies must cease to be subject to the countries that have founded them : nature herself indicates that period : it is that in which they have sufficient strength to maintain themselves in regard to self-defence and commerce. The Spanish colonies, the islands of Cuba, Porto Rico, and Trinidad excepted, have approached rapidly to this situation for more than half a century. The identity of religion, opinions, recollections, origin and language ; the ties of kindred ; all that of which the endearing name of country is composed, formed the moral cement which retained those of Spain under the * It does ! and the editor trusts for the honour of his country, that the friends of those ministers who patronized the heroic but unfortunate Miranda, will come forward to disprove many of those charges which remain unanswered, but which his impartiality and love of truth will not allow the editor to suppress. ■n 30 ANECDOTE. authority of the common sovereign. In that re- spect, they differ from those which now form the United States of North America, whose inhabi- tants have sprung from colonies and emigrants sent out from nearly all the nations of Europe. The white population of the Spanish colonies having, on the contrary, an homogeneal origin, it is easy to conceive that nothing less than great oppressions in the government of one of those colonies, or a revolution occurring in the mother country, could break the moral ties by which it remained subject to its sovereign. These principles are advanced in order to distinguish the peaceable citizens and proprietors of a country, who are solicitous solely for its independence, from the factious agitators and spies hired by a powerful enemy, to propagate discord and anarchy in it. An excellent governor, Don Vincente de Em- paran, had, by the mere influence of his wisdom and virtues, put an end to public discontent in the provice of Cumana, after the catastrophe of Espana. The fruits of his beneficent administration were still enjoyed under his successor, Don Ma- nuel de Cagigal, in 1807, when I was in Cumana. Having, one day entered the store of a grocer, in that town, I found him occupied in making paper bags and wrappers of the declarations of the rights of man, copies of the social contract, and the bulls true or false of Pope Pius VI. which excommunicated the French nation. I inquired how those papers had come to his shop ; the fol- CONTRADICTIONS. 3J lowing was his answer : " I made a voyage to Trinidad after the peace of Amiens : Mr. gave me a bale containing five hundred copies of each of these writings, and as many by a Peruvian Jesuit, who has long resided in London, by which he instigated us to renounce our allegiance to our sovereign, and promised us the assistance of Eng- land. Such bales are given to all the traders who frequent the ports of Trinidad. As for me, I took mine to the governor, after having reserved some copies for making bags, &c. It must be acknow- ledged," added this Creole, a man of singular good sense, " that the British ministers are as perfidious as they are inconsistent : they send us these writings in order to inculcate democratic princi- ples, whilst they at another time declared war against France, under the pretext of opposing her in an attempt to establish for herself that form of government which they now wish by all means to force us to adopt. They are Protestants, and they send us the Pope's bulls against the French, to inspire us with horror for that nation. They must truly deem us a very stupid race, in supposing that we can be entrapped in such a man- ner." " My friend," I replied, " it is of very little consequence to those ministers under what form of government you or we live: their great object is to sow enmity and discord among other nations, to obtain a monopoly of their commerce : that is the sole aim of their policy." The reforms effected in the province of Carac- . . . . HHi 32 MI It A MM. cas by Don Pedro Carbonel, and in that of Cu- mana by Don V. de Emparan, (the two principal provinces of the general government of Vene- zuela,) had calmed and satisfied all minds ; but, with those governors, it was not long before the good they had introduced also disappeared. The Captain General Vasconcellos having placed all his confidence, and in some measure transferred his authority to Lavnes, tyranny and extortions again distracted the colonists. General Miranda was invited by thousands of letters to go and place himself at the head of the insurgents in the year 1805. He appeared on the coast of Porto Cavello in the month of May, 1806 ; but the ves- sel that conveyed him was repulsed by the Spanish gun-boats. He repaired to Trinidad in the fol- lowing month, and departed from it on the 1st of August, accompanied by about one hundred and eighty volunteers, escorted by a sloop of war from the squadron of Admiral Cochrane. Six days afterwards he landed at Coro, where he remained twelve days with his little troop, without being attacked by Colonel Salis, who was posted at four leagues from him. Miranda found the people of that thinly inhabited part of the province, very little disposed for a revolution, and seeing himself abandoned by the British admiral, who had pro- mised him powerful aid, he decided on returning to Trinidad, where he was the object of the most cruel raillery, both to the English generals who had deceived him, and of those persons who had Hi THE AUDIENCIA. 33 previously lavished the meanest flatteries on him, when they expected to see him soon become the head of a new state. I shall say nothing of the events that have since elevated him to the place of supreme chief of the United States of Vene- zuela, because I was not there when that revolu- tion broke out ; but 1 know that the persecutions exercised against the French, when that state was governed by the agents of the Junta of Cadiz, have ceased since the authority has passed into the hands of General Miranda and the indepen- dent party. Here it is necessary to direct the reader's atten- tion to two things : the first is, that as soon as the Audiencia of Caraccas had information that General Miranda was preparing at New York to invade his country, they hastened to put an. end to public discontent, by prohibiting exac- tions and abuses, and by displacing some subaltern agents ; which proves how mild the people are, and easy to be governed. Tn the second place, it is to be observed that the British ministry of this period, the close of 1806, caused to be inserted in the London Ga- zette, an official letter from Admiral Cochrane, in which he announced the capture of Caraccas by General Miranda, while they ought to have known that the general had not approached within fifty leagues of that capital. As there were negociations for peace at the time, they j> 34 VENEZUELA. thought, perhaps, that this petty trick would have an influence on those which related to Spain. VENEZUELA. This country is bounded on the north by the Caribbean Sea, and extends southward from SL Joseph de Rio Negro (where the Portuguese possessions begin,) which is in the first degree of northern latitude, to Cape de la Vela, in 12° 10 ; and from east to west from the 62° of West longitude, to 75° 50 . French and Dutch Cayenne form its eastern limits, and the kingdom of New Grenada, or Santa Fe de Bogota, bounds it on the west. A chain of mountains which stretch from the Andes de Bogota, meander across the country, first in a northern direction, then to- wards the east, and at length incline as they ap- proach the coast. The Island of Trinidad, which is at the end of this chain, and that of Tobago to the eastward of Trinidad, are supposed to be ves- tiges of the great catastrophe which has detached them from it. To the south and north of the mountains are vast plains which extend to the east and west, and are terminated at the foot of the Andes de Bogota. Tin few lere are lew countries so well watered, if we except the steppes or desarts which h been S(> Hi TO POO RA PIIIC A L DESC It f PTION. 35 well described by M. de Humboldt. In a future chapter, I shall offer some observations on the periodical increase and decrease of the Orinoco. There are nearly three hundred and seventy marine leagues from the Raudal (cataract) of the Guajaribos, east of the Esmeralda (the nearest point to its sources, which are unknown) to the mouths of the Orinoco. The map prefix- ed to this work will shew its windings, the rivers it receives, its cataracts, and its depth between the town of St. Thomas and the sea, and also above the last named place. The country is intersected in every direction by navigable rivers of various sizes. All those which are eastward of Cape de Paria, the Guara- piche, and the small rivers that flow into the Gulf of Paria excepted, are lost in the Orinoco. Many of its tributaries are more considerable than some distinguished rivers in Europe: the Rio Apure runs nearly one hundred and twelve leagues, and is navigable for large vessels for more than sixty leagues from its confluence with the Orinoco. In latitude 7° 32' N. it has four thousand six hundred and thirty-two fathoms in width, and is not impeded by islands. The Guarapiche presents a very remarkable phenomenon : this river has its source, like all those of New Andalusia, in that part of the Lla- nos which is denominated Mesa (a platform or plain.) de Amana, Mesa de Guanipa, Mesa de Tororo, &c. The mountains that separate the raa- u 2 36 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. ritime range of Paria from the granitic and am- phibolic mountains of the Lower Orinoco, form a ridge very little above the rest of the plain ; but this elevation, which is called Mesa, is sufficient to determine the rivers to run northward towards the gulf of Paria, and to the south into the Ori- noco. The Guarapiche rises in the Mesa de Amana, to the south-west of the village of Ma- thurin : it receives near St. Antonio the Rio Co- lorado, then the Rio Punceres, and at last the large river Arco, which is called Rio de San Bonifacio near its source. The Governor Emparan had formed some very useful projects for colonial establishments on the fertile banks of the Arco and Guarapiche. The place where the Arco unites with the Guarapiche, at five leagues from its mouth, is called the Horquetta, a name given by the Spaniards to all junctions of rivers : at that point the Guarapiche has a depth of from forty to fifty fathoms. Previous to 1766, large vesselscould have sailed up the Guarapiche to Mathurin s an earthquake has since raised its bed, and now the navigation of the Rio Arco is preferable. The lat- ter is still sixteen fathoms deep as far as Port San Juan, at twenty-five leagues from the sea. I can venture to assert that there is no communication between the Guarapiche and Orinoco : I have never heard it mentioned in all the time I re- sided in that country, and in which I travelled through it in various directions. I was not a little surprised to find in the map of a work, ■MHHHH ■i TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION, 37 otherwise estimable, (Travels of M. de Pons,) a pretended canal of Morichal, a natural channel, that effected a communication between those two rivers above old Cayenne. M. de Humboldt, who navigated that river, had also no knowledge of any such communication. A geographer who raises or sinks mountains, forms or drains marshes with the same facility with which he penetrates into iron mines to the centre of the earth, has not placed in his map this curious and important river ; and the place where its mouth is found in the Gulf of Paria, presents the extremity of a natural canal or branch of the Orinoco, which w T ould commence on its left bank, at San Thome de An- gustura. The Guarapiche, notwithstanding its depth, and the great body of water it carries to the sea, has only from its sources to its mouth a course of thirty-three marine leagues. This country contains a large lake, that of Ma- racaybo, some gulfs, and a most interesting lake for naturalists, that of Tacarigua. I shall say nothing of Lake Parima or El Dorado, which has so excited the invention of authors, and the avarice of adventurers; nothing being more du- bious than its existence ; and according to the astronomical observations of M. de Humboldt, if such a lake does exist, it ought to be situated more to the east, and consequently nearer to French Guyana than the maps have placed it. It has been suppressed in the new map of South America, by Arrowsmith. As for myself, I sus- 38 LAKE TACAHIGtA, pect that this lake is only an immense plain, inun- dated annually in the rainy season. The Lake Tacarigua, to which the Spaniards have given the name of Valencia, is situated at the southern extremity of the valley of Arogoa, and at twenty French leagues from Caraccas. It is elevated twelve hundred feet above the level of the sea, and has almost the shape of an oblong square : its length is thirteen leagues from east to west, and it is two leagues broad in al- most its whole extent. The contrast of the desert and barren mountains of Guigue, with the hills and vallies opposite, ornamented with the most beau- tiful tropical vegetation, and even the fields of corn and fruit trees of Europe, and the vicinity of the little town of Valencia, agreeably reminds an European of the lake of Geneva and Vevay. The mountains of Caraccas, it is true, have not the grand appearance of the Alps ; but then how much superior the rich, varied and majestic vegetation which ornaments the borders of the Tacarigua, is to the most beautiful natural produc- tions of Europe ! I was there in company with a Dane, (Mr. West,) a man of talents. Whilst we were absorbed in the contemplation of that delightful scene, the native of the north suddenly exclaimed : " It is here that we should fix our residence for the remainder of our lives : I shall return to Santa Cruz, there collect my property, and come to these charming shores, which shall also be my tomb." Hi$ NKW-BOHiN ISLANDS. 39 Several small rivers and streams flow into this lake, which has no outlet : this has induced the people of the country, and even some writers, to believe that it communicates with the sea by subterraneous channels ; but a celebrated natu- ralist, who has studied nature on the spot, and calculated her operations, thinks that by the evaporation more water is exhaled from the lake than is carried to it. It is thus that M. de Hum- boldt explains the formation of the small islands that have been formed in the lake : at first they were only sand-banks, which by degrees became covered with vegetables. Another cause that I had the means of observing at Tri- nidad, has contributed, without doubt, to the formation of these islands ; the draining and cultivation of the vallies of Aragoa. There is a prodigious difference between the quantity of slime carried olF by the rains and torrents in a cultivated, or a savage country : it is known that in the latter the quantity of earth washed away is much less than in the former : if the mountains and vallies which surround the Lake Tacarigua, had not lost their ancient trees and thick turf, perhaps it would have required a thousand years to have formed these small islands in its bed. From time to time new ones are seen to arise. The inhabitants of the neighbourhood have given to them a name that justly characterises 'them : Las Aparecidas, the new-born islands. A great number of small crocodiles are seen in this lake, 40 LARES AM) RIVKKS. which never attack the persons who go there to bathe. The shape of the Lake Maracaybo is an oval, of fifty leagues in length, by thirty in breadth ; which makes a circumference of about a hun- dred and fifty leagues : this lake is situated be- tween the lowest part of the mountans of Santa Martha, and near the place where the chain begins, which is detached from the Andes de Bogota : it communicates with a gulf of half its size, by a passage of about two leagues broad and eight long : thus this lake forms a little Mediter- ranean : it receives the tribute of more than twenty rivers, and a great number of rivulets that run down the two ridges of mountains, be- tween which it is situated. The most considerable are the Subio and the Matacau ; for the Souba and the Cuervos, though wide at their mouths, are only creeks fed by torrents, into which the waters of the lake recoil during winter. The Souba has nearly eight leagues of length, and the Cuervos forms a curve of about fifteen leagues : both of those creeks are navigable. It is between them and the mountains, that the Guahiros are found ; warlike Indians who have never been subjected by the Spaniards. They extend to the other side of the mountains, along the Rio de la Hache to the borders of the sea. The Rio de la Hache in that part forms the boundary between the government of Caraccas and the kingdom of New Grenada. LAKHS AND HI VERS. 41 Though the Lake of Maracaybo communicates with the sea by a gulf, of which the opening is about fifteen leagues, its waters are sweet and fit for use ; but when the wind blows inward with violence, the sea water rushes into the lake, and its water becomes brackish until the wind changes. This lake is not subject to tempests; yet w T hen the north-wind is strong, it produces a short and broken swell that sometimes does considerable injury to the smaller craft. The tide rises higher in this lake than on the adjacent coasts, where it is scarcely perceptible. It is the same in the Gulf of Paria, and in that of Cariaco, because the tide and wind oppose the water there, which continually runs out. On the north west shore of the Lake Maracaybo is an extensive mine of asphaltum, of the same nature as that in Trinidad. When the Spaniards dis~ covered this country, they found a great number of Indian villages situated about the lake, built on piles, which was the reason that they gave it the name of Venezuela, as already noticed. This name soon extended to all the province ; of which Coro became the capital. The town of Carac- cas having been since made the metropolis of all the countries that compose the captain general- ship, its district took the name of the Province of Venezuela ; the country surrounding the lake was named the province of Maracaybo ; the other three continental provinces were termed Varinas, Guyana, and Cumana. The country known by 42 TUIMDAD. the name of New Andalusia, as well as the Island of Margarita, form part of the government of Cumana. The Island of Trinidad formed a sixth province or particular government, depending on that of Caraccas, before the English got possession of it. A captain general, intendant, and an audienda, or supreme tribunal of justice and finance, com- posed the superior government of those pro- vinces. The provincial governors were directly subjected to the captain general of Caraccas in all affairs concerning the military and civil govern- ment ; to the intendant, of whom they took the title of sub-delegates, for financial concerns; and the audiencia was a tribunal to which appeals were made, not only from the decisions of the provincial courts, but also to which individuals had the right of summoning such persons in office as they thought they had reason to complain of. There was a privilege of appeal from the de- crees of the audiencia, to the supreme council of the Indies, at Madrid. A frovernment where all the departments were so regulated as to watch and balance each other, was no doubt admirably calculated to protect the rights of the subject, and establish a laudable emulation among its officers, which ought to promote public pros- perity ; and such was always its happy result, when those provinces were governed by an honest, vigilant and firm captain general, like Don Pe- dro Carbonel. But as it unfortunately happens, it became an established practice at Madrid to ■I ■■■ POPULATION. 43 give or sell the administrative and judicial places to the lowest class of office clerks, and those of lawyers, who paid an annual acknow- ledgment to their patrons ; and that this abuse had extended even to the nomination of the most insignificant military commands, it is easy to conceive how the colonists must have been op- pressed under such a system, particularly when- ever it happened that the captain general was a rapacious man, desirous to acquire a fortune, and return to Europe to enjoy it. According to M. Depons, the population of the five provinces of Venezuela, Varinas, Mara- caybo, Cumana, and Guyana, amounted to only seven hundred and twenty-eight thousand souls in 1802. In his calculation the whites composed two-tenths of this population, the slaves three, the free people of colour four, and the Indians one tenth. Agreeably to this calculation, there ought to have been two hundred and eighteen thousand four hundred slaves in those provinces, whilst, in reality, there were not fifty-eight thousand. This is the manner in which M. Depons distri- butes the population : Venezuela and Varinas 500,000 souls. Maracaybo - 100,000 Cumana and Margarita 94,000 Spanish Guayana 34,000 Total 728,000 souls. 44 POPULATION. According to the calculations of M. de Hum- boldt, which correspond with the documents that were furnished to myself, five years after his residence in Caraccas, the population of those provinces, was in 1800, about nine hundred thou- sand souls, of whom only lifty-four thousand were slaves. A well informed administrator of Curnana, communicated some statements to me in the month of May, 1807, by which it would appear that the population of those provinces amounted to more than nine hundred and seventy- five thousand souls. It is true that there had been comprised in that table an enumeration of several tribes of Indians not united in missions ; for instance, the Guaraouins, who live in the small islands situated at the mouth of the Orinoco, and of whom the number is supposed to be about ten thousand ; some hordes of Arroouaks, who live between the Orinoco and the Rio Esequibo, about four thousand; and lastly, the Guahiros, who live in the mountains situated between the Lake of Maracaybo and the Rio de la Hache, whose number cannot be less than fifty thousand persons. We shall observe, by the way, that M. Depons, after having said at page 313 of the first volume of his travels, that this tribe contains only thirty thousand individuals, says, at page 319, that they can muster fourteen thou- sand warriors ! In the states of which I have just spoken, there was to be found a table of the progressive A NEW COLONY. 45 population of the vallies of the Cape de Paria, where, since the year 1794, there have been established a considerable number of cultivators from various nations, particularly Irish and French : the latter are the chief part of the co- lonists of Grenada, Tobago, and Trinidad, who sought an asylum there from oppression. This new colony, unknown to the rest of the world, contains about seven thousand individuals of all ages, ranks and colours. Those of the Punta de Piedra cultivate cocoa successfully; those of Guira cotton wool : there are some sugar plan- tations, and some of coffee in the other vallies. 1 passed some very agreeable moments among those worthy people in 1807. Their manner of life, simple and laborious, the abundance and comfort in every necessary, the absence of all that approaches luxury in their dress, furniture, and houses ; the good will, harmony, and hospi- tality that prevailed among them, (there was neither lawyer nor inn-keeper, and very few doctors) made me particularly regret their so- ciety. I left in that infant colony men who had figured in the most brilliant companies of Ger- many and France : the latter are Frenchmen ; some who have been obliged to fly from the per- secutions of two or three renegados of their na- tion, established at Trinidad, and who, banished for ever from France, have become the most bit- ter enemies of their former countrymen : others are Frenchmen who have chosen rather to aban- 46 OPPRESSIONS. don their properties in the islands conquered by the British, than to take oaths and sign declara- tions hostile to their sovereign. These men, frank, energetic, laborious, strangers to all poli- tical intrigue, and who have no other wish than that of cultivating their new plantations in peace, were yet annoyed, and some of them plundered by a Spanish administrator, at a time when the British government possessed a great influence in the colonies of the former nation. But since the independent party has obtained the ascen- dency at Caraccas over that of the Junta, and that liberal principles have succeeded to tyranny and fanaticism, the colonists of the French origin established in the state of Venezuela partake with the other citizens the benefit of the new government. As I have spoken of the oppressions commit- ted on the peaceable French cultivators, at the instigation of others, it will not be out of place here to add, that it was at the demand of an agent of the British government, that several hundreds of the unfortunate colonists of St. Domingo, refugees in the island of Cuba, were expelled from it in 1808 : and what had these un- happy colonists done against that government ? The greater part of them had fought under its banners, when in the delirium of jealousy and hatred, and in the beginning of the French revo- lution it sent pretended succours to them, under the pretext of quelling the insurrection; but, in I A It A CCA S. IT reality, to accomplish the ruin of that queen of colonies! Those interesting victims had con- veyed to the United States, and from thence, amidst a thousand dangers, to the Island of Cuba, their wives, children, and some portion of the wreck of their fortunes, which they had saved from the fury of the negroes, or from the rapa- city of the British : they lived unknown to the rest of mankind, clearing the forests to plant the means of subsistence there ! Caraccas, the metropolis of the province of Venezuela while under the Spanish yoke, was founded in 1566, by Diego de Losada : it is situa- ted in the delicious Valley of Arragon. Its ele- vation above the level of the sea is three thousand feet, according to the observations made by M. de Humboldt at the Trinity church. Although it is in 10° 30' of latitude, and 67° of West longi- tude, this elevation, added to some other local causes, suffices to give it during our winter, the temperature of our spring, and in that season, the heat is very seldom so great as in our sum- mers : this will be seen by the thermometrical observations inserted in the course of this chapter. It is the residence of the captain general ; of the intendant ; of the audiencia, or supreme adminis- trative and judicial tribunal; of an archbishop ; a chapter ; a tribunal of the inquisition (abolished by the present government,) and an university ; it has some what of a triangular shape, and is about two thousand toises long on each of its sides. 48 M0DF, OF BUILDING. Like all other towns in the new world, its streets are drawn at right angles, and are rather wide. Being built on an unequal surface, what- ever Caraccas wants in regularity, it gains in picturesque effect : many of the houses have ter- raced roofs, others are covered with bent tiles; there are many that have only a ground floor ; the rest have but one story more : they are built either of brick or of earth well pounded, and covered with stucco, of an architecture sufficiently solid, elegant, and adapted to the climate. Many of them have gardens in their rear, which is the reason that this town has an extent equal to an European one that would contain a hundred thousand persons. Four beautiful streams that traverse it, contribute to its coolness and clean- liness, and give it an air of animation which is not found in towns deprived of running water. As in some towns of the Alps and Pyrenees, each house- holder in Caraccas has the invaluable advantage of having in his house a pipe of running and lim- pid water, which does not prevent all the squares, and almost all the streets from having public fountains. In general there is much luxury and gilding in the decorations of the houses of wealthy persons, and among all, more cleanliness and comfort than in Spain. This town does not possess any public edifice remarkable for its beauty and size, with the exception of the church of Alta Gracia, built at the expense of the people of colour in Caraccas and its vicinity. ■ i$$* CONVERT*. 49 The town is divided into five parishes: that of the Cathedral, Alta Gracia, Saint Paolo, Saint Rosalia, and La Candelaria. Three other churches belong- to confraternities : Saint Maurice, the Divina Pastora, and the Trinidad. Though the archi- tecture of those churches has nothing remarkable, they are solidly built, and richly ornamented in the interior. The cathedral is two hundred and fifty feet long by seventy-five broad, and its walls are thirty-six feet high ; four ranges of stone columns, each containing six, support the roof; the only public clock in the town, three years ago, was in the steeple of this church. This town has five convents, of which three are for men, the Franciscans, Dominicans, and Brothers of the Order of Mercy. The church •of the Dominicans has a very curious historical picture : it represents the Virgin Mary suckling a grey-bearded Saint Dominic. The following is the account of this miracle, as recounted by the sexton to those who visit the church : St. Dominic having had a violent pain in his breast, and his physician having ordered him woman's milk, the Virgin suddenly descended from Heaven and presented her breast to the saint, who, as it may be supposed, was cured in an instant. The sexton finishes his story by observing that the Virgin operated this miracle in acknowledgment of their founder's devotion for the rosary. The priests of the oratory of St. Philip de Nevi E 50 CHURCH REVENUES. have also a church : they are usefully occupied in the civilization of the aboriginal inhabitants. The two monasteries of women are those of the Conception and Carmelites. A more useful and respectable association is the congregation of Las Educandas : it is a community of young- ladies of good family and well educated, who though they do not make vows of chastity and confinement, as the others do, observe them much better, and occupy themselves in the education of young females. The Archbishop of Caraccas has for suffragans the Bishops of Merida and Guiana: he had previous to the rupture of the treaty of Amiens a revenue of about sixty thousand dollars for his part of the tythes, without counting what accrued to him for the sale of dispensations, indulgences, bulls, &c. articles which raise his revenue to more than ninety thousand. In general those bishops, canons, monks, and nuns are richly endowed, well fed, and do not painfully tread the paths that con- duct to Heaven amidst thorns and briars : it is, however, necessary to do them this justice, that they have neither the brutality nor intolerance of their brethren in Spain ; nor is it rare to find among them persons of elegant manners, learning and virtue. The reader will not, perhaps, be a little surprised to learn, that the head of a government so impor- tant, the captain general, and immediate represen- ■■ ^fjk; UNIVERSITIES. 51 iative of the sovereign, formerly resided in a hired house, of which he had only the ground floor : the intendancy, the audiencia, tribunals, and military hospital, are also in rented houses. The conta- deria, or treasury, a solid but mean building, and the barracks, which are vast and well built, are the only edifices that belong to the government. This town has a college founded in 1 778, by -Antonio Gonzales d'Acuna, Bishop of Caraccas, and converted into a university in 1792, with the permission of the Pope ! In this university read- ing and writing are first taught. Three profes- sors teach enough of Latin to read mass, Aristotle's physics, and the philosophy of Scotus, which still prevailed at this school in 1808. A professor of medicine demonstrates anatomy, explains phy- siology, all the laws of animal life, the art of cur- ing, &c. on a skeleton and some preparations in wax. If in this orthodox country a provision for instructing the profane arts and sciences has been neglected, it has not been so with the study of theology and canon law ; live professors are occupied in teaching those sciences. One, only, the most learned, of course, is employed to de- fend the doctrine of Saint Thomas on the imma- culate conception, against all heretics ! No diplo- ma can be obtained without having sworn to a sincere belief in this revered dogma! The university has also a professor who teaches the Roman law, the Castilian laws, the code of the Indies, and all other laws. In short, a pro- e 2 52 THEATRE. lessor of vocal church music forms part of thv; hierarchy of instruction, and teaches to the stu- dents of law and medicine, as well as to those of theology, to sing in time and harmony, the airs of the Roman ritual. By letters I have lately re- ceived from that country, I am informed that the leaders of the independent party have intro- duced into the courses of instruction, the study of the philosophy of Locke and Condillac, the physics of Bacon and Newton, pneumatic chy- mistry, and mathematics, to the great displeasure of certain persons, whose luxury and corpulence were maintained by the ignorance of their coun- trymen. A town like Caraccas could not but require a theatre ; and the one it has, is decorated with the finest ceiling in the world, which is the sky : the roof only covers the boxes, so that when it happens to rain, which is seldom the case in this country, those in the pit are drenched. Nothing can be more monotonous and contemptible than the acting of their players ; yet this wretched performance is frequented by the inhabitants of all classes, even by the priests and monks, who go there in their religious habits. The population of the town of, Caraccas was forty-seven thousand two hundred and twenty- eight persons of all colours, in 1807 ; it amount- ed to fifty thousand souls in 1810; three hundred and fortysix thousand seven hundred and seventy- two persons of all colours then composed thepopu- ^ : ''vy0v* ft^^wfr^v*' ^^^^^^m T1IEIU VARIETIES. Ill birds. Those I recognised were flamingoes of all ages and colours, pelicans, herons, boobies, five or six kinds of ducks, of which one is larger than that of India, several kinds of water-hens, a bird as white and as large as a swan, but which has a long beak, red and pointed, longer and more delicate legs, and feet formed like those of a swan t it swims like that bird, but flies much better. I also saw in the same spot, many other birds which I am sure have never been described by any naturalist. Twice I paid the master of the vessel that took me from Cariaco to Cumana, and back again, to remain half an hour at those islets, in order that I might con- template at my leisure those myriads of birds, of such various forms and colours. One of them, which I could not distinguish by sight, in the multitude, uttered plaintive and melancholy notes : at the time that it attracted my attention, Iliad just loaded a small gun, to gratify my son, who re- quested that he might be suffered to fire on a flock of birds that reposed within twenty paces of us ; the plaintive voice of this obtained mercy for all ; Samuel's hands were disarmed ; my sentiments passed rapidly into his feeling and tender mind, being at that time only seven years old. I was then a prey to persecution, and the distress occa- sioned by a most agonizing separation. The melancholy notes of a bird which appeared to resemble those of the turtle-dove in the place 112 BIND CATCHERS. where I drew my breath, awakened all the ideas, the kind or cruel illusions which the word coun- try inspires in the mind of the unfortunate and persecuted who travel in distant and hostile re- gions ! The catching of ducks and other aquatic birds, by two Indians in this part of the gulf, was an object of great amusement to my son, and an abstraction to myself. Though this singular and silent chase may have been already noticed, I can- not avoid describing it. In this part of the New World, the inhabitants of the shores of lakes and gulfs, leave .calebashes continually floating on the water, in order that the birds, by being accustomed to see them, may not be alarmed at the sight. When the people wish to catch any of these wild fowl, they go into the water with their heads covered each with a calabash, in which they make two holes for seeing through. They thus swim towards the birds, throwing a hand- ful of maize on the water from time to time, of which the grains scatter on the surface. The ducks and other birds approach to feed on the mnize, and at that moment the swimmer seizes them by the feet, pulls them under water and wrings their necks before they can make the least movement, or by their noise spread an alarm among the flock. The swimmer attaches those he has taken to his girdle, and he generally takes as many as are necessary for his family. Many HH SULPHUROUS MAHSII. 113 have no other profession in the neighbourhood of some towns, and daily take multitudes of these birds, which they sell at a low rate, though they are very good food. At about a league and a half from the town of Cariaco, and near the road that leads to Carupano, is a lake, or rather a marsh, of about half a league long, by nearly the same breadth, which is the resort of innumerable reptiles, toads, serpents, and crocodiles : it is there also, according to the assertions of the inhabitants of the neighbourhood, where the tyger cats go to quench their thirst. It was at ten o'clock at night when I first passed nearthismarsh : itexhaled anhydrogen-sulphurous odour extremely nauseouSj. and phosphoric fires appeared on its surface. A preacher of the Island of Margarita acknowledged to me that the hideous appearance of this lake, had furnished him with some of the imagery of a sermon which I heard him preach at the beginning of Lent in 1807, andof which I shall give a fragment in the description of that island. The inhabitants of the town of Ca- riaco have told me of a frightful animal, which so much resembles the fabulous winged dragon, that I dare not repeat the description they gave me of it, lest I should incur the ridicule of natu- ralists. A great many persons, however, assured me that they had seen it on the borders of the marsh. What can this amphibious animal be ? Perhaps an enormous guana, lizard, or some 1 ^™ 114 CARUPANO, monstrous reptile of the order of Sauriens. I col- lected petrolium on the brink of this marsh. The name of the town of Carupano is not found in the work of M. Depons on the government of Caraccas, nor on the map which accompanies that kind of statistic account, to which the name of Travels has been given. This town and its district merit, however, a place there ; for it is the first met with on the coast, after leaving the Gulf of Paria, and when coming from Europe, North America, or the Brazils. The port of Carupano is defended by a battery situated on an eminence. It is a very healthy place, built in the opening of two charming val- lies, watered by two line rivers. The inhabitants divide their time in the occupations of agriculture, some trading concerns, and dancing. It is com- pletely a dancing town. I have seen very fine youths at the balls of Carupano, and many young women, who would be remarkable for their beauty even in our European cities ; but they are beauties entirely strangers to the arts of our coquettes ; beauties such as nature has made them, and who know no laws than what thai unsophisticated deity has given them. Carupano and the neighbouring district have a population of about eight thousand persons. There is a considerable trade there in horses and mules. At the foot of the neighbouring hills there are quarries of gypsum (sulphat of lime); so that most of M. CONSTANTIN. 115 the houses in the town are cieled. In going by land from Carupano to Guiria, and the Punta de Piedra, the smiling valley of Rio Caribe is crossed, watered by numerous rivulets: it is the Tempe and Campagna of this country. There was then in the valley of Rio Caribe a remarkable personage : he called himself a Greek, and native of Smyrna: others pretended that he was a Turk ; but of whatever nation he might be, he w 7 as cer- tainly a very worthy man : his name was Con- stantin. When I was with him in 1807, he was eighty years of age, but with the vigour and appearance of a well formed man of fifty, and the vivacity of one of thirty. He had five children by his first marriage, and three by his second wife, who was young and amiable, and with whom he kept a very good house. I was most kindly re- ceived by him. Mr. Constantin is the wealthiest planter in this valley : I was recommended to him by a very respectable man, who lives retired in the solitudes of Cape de Paria, Mr. Closier d'Arcueil, a native of Paris. This gentleman is son of one of the first proprietors of Grenada, and cousin of the virtuous Closier Sainte Marie, legally murdered at Grenada in 1795. The town and valley of Rio Caribe have a popu- lation of 4500 persons. M. Depons speaks of Guiria and of Guinima, two villages established by the French and Spaniards, who emigrat- ed from Trinidad, to avoid the vexations of the British Governor. When a description is i 2 116 YAGUARAPARO. given of the provinces and districts of a country, their chief towns ought not to be omitted. Pun- ta de Picdra, which in 1797 was only a hamlet of fishermen, has become the principal place in the district of Paria, and the residence of a lieutenant governor. Though the town is not yet consider- able, by the number and beauty of its edifices, it is nevertheless a most important spot, from the prodigious fertility of its territory, and its for- tunate position near the mouths of the Guara- piche, Orinoco, and Port Spain. The town is situated in a magnificent plain, and on a platform w T hich commands the sea ; from whence there is a view of Port Spain, all the wes- tern part of the Island of Trinidad, the gulf of Paria, and of all the vessels that enter or go out of it. At the extremity of this plain, opens the beau- tiful and fertile valley of Yaguaraparo, covered with, plantations of coffee and cocoa : the fertility of its soil, and the mildness of its climate, particu- larly appropriated to the latter plant, have made the fortunes of all the colonists established there. A Catalan sailor settled here, in 1790, when the valley was almost a desart : he began, alone, to fell the woods and plant cocoa trees : in 1797, this man had twenty negroes on his plantation : in 1804 he had thirty slaves, and with this small assistance he gathered more than one hundred thousand pounds weight of cocoa. He died in 180-1 j intestate, it is said, and the government GUIANA. 117 took possession of his property. It was managed in 1807 by the surgeon-major of the garrison of Curaana, who deemed himself the proprietor of it. This officer placed a considerable number of slaves on the estate, and told me that he was sure the plantation would render him five hundred thousand pounds of cocoa annually, after six or seven years ! We are now arrived on the borders of the Province of Cumana, near the mouths of the Guarapiche and Orinoco. There also, as on the banks of the Ohio, I found Frenchmen and Irish- men thrown on those solitary shores by political persecutions ! The inhabitants of the district of Punta de Piedra were unanimous in the praise of their Lieutenant Governor Don Juan Mayoral. If physiognomy can be depended on, I am sure those praises could not be more justly merited. The jurisdiction of the Governor of Guiana used to extend over the establishments situated within cannon shot, on the left bank of the Ori- noco, at the Paria side. In 1808 the British Government established a post between the Guarapiche and Orinoco, near the sea, under pretence of cutting guiacum wood for their navy : they have since erected batteries which command the navigation of those two rivers, and it will hereafter become the Gib- raltar of this part of the globe, if the Venezuelan government should permit them to continue. 118 < 1 MANACOA. The vallies, and above all the banks of the rivers of this part of the province of Cumana, abound in logwood and Brazil wood : they cut those woods at present, so necessary to their manufac- tures, and doubtless find it very convenient to have in their own possession, what they would other- wise be obliged to purchase from foreigners. CUMANACOA, or SAN BALTAZAR DE LOS-ARIAS. Cumanacoais the chief town of one of the most fertile districts of this province, and is situated in a valley of the same name, at eighteen leagues inland to the south-east of Cumana : the air is healthy, and tolerably cool. The fruits cultivated there, are reputed the best in the province ; but cocoa is its principal wealth. The population of the town and adjacent country is about five thousand souls. Until thirty years ago, the neighbouring country was inhabited by uncon- quered Indians, who made frequent incursions against the Spaniards of this quarter ; but the missionaries have pacified and united them in missions. There are springs in the neighbourhood of Cumanacoa which contain salts similar to those of Epsom in dissolution, and other mineral waters. It is very well calculated to become a watering place, like our Plombieres, Bagueres, &c. M. de Humboldt, who remained at Cumanacoa, GROTTO OF GUACHARO. 119 to make astronomical observations there, deter- mined its latitude at 10° 16' N. and its longitude at 64° 15' west. At twenty leagues further inland, on entering the range of the Bergantin mountains, near that of Turimiquiri, is the famous grotto of Guacharo, in which are millions of a new species of Caprl- mulgus*, thatfdl the cavern with their plaintive and dismal cries. In every country the same causes have produced similar effects on the imagi- nation of our species. The grotto of Guacharo is, in the opinion of the Indians, a place of trial and expiation : souls when separated from bodies, go to this cavern ; those of men who die without reproach do not remain in it, and immediately ascend, to reside with the great Manitou in the dwellings of the blessed : those of the wicked are retained there eternally ; and such men as have committed but slight faults of a venial nature, are kept there for a longer or shorter period, according to the crime. Immediately after the death of their parents and friends, the Indians go to the entrance of this cavern, to listen to their groans. If they think they hear their voices, they also lament, and ad- dress a prayer to the great spirit Manitou, and another to the devil Muboya ; after which they drown their grief with intoxicating beverages. * Their fat is an article of eomiuerop. 120 FUTURITY. But if they do not hear the wished for voices, they express their joy by dances and festivals. In all this there is but one circumstance that creates surprize, it is that the Indian priests have not availed themselves of such credulity to aug- ment their revenues. Many Indians, though otherwise converted to Christianity, have not ceased to believe in Guacharo : and to descend into Guacharo, is among them synonymous with dying. Thus in the majestic forests of South America, as in the ancient civilization of Hindostan; under the harsh climates of the north of Europe and Canada, as in the burning regions of Africa, in all parts the man of every colour is distinguished from other animals by this irresistible foreboding of a future life, in which an Omnipotent Being recompenses the good, and punishes evil doers. Whatever may be the modifications, differences, or absurdities with which imagination, ignorance, and greedy imposture have enveloped this belief, it appears to be one of the strongest moral proofs of the identity of our species, and to be a natural consequence of reflection. If the gloom of this cavern, and the mournful cries of the Caprimulgus, which it constantly re- echoes, are adapted for influencing and intimidat- ing feeble minds ; the clear river that runs from its entrance, at the feet of majestic mountains crowned by the most beautiful vegetation, a smiling valley ? together with the eternal spring of the climate, «>: j ?y-A v.^.-yv^v NEW BARCELONA. 121 would have made an Elysium of this place, if it had produced a poet. I now proceed to describe the province or dis- trict of New Barcelona. This country is bounded on the east by the province of Caraccas, on the west by that of Cumana, properly speaking, and on the south by the Orinoco, which separates it from Guina. To the north is the chain of Ber- gantin, which proceeds from the mountains of Santa Martha, and loses itself in the sea at Cape de Paria. It is thinly inhabited and scantily cul- tivated, but less mountainous than those of Caraccas and Cumana. Its immense meadows feed numerous herds of oxen, horses, asses and mules, and thou- sands of them are exported annually to the neigh- bouring colonies. There is also a great quantity of oxen slaughtered there, of which the meat is smoked, and is an object of considerable trade. The port of Barcelona exported, during the peace of Amiens, and in one year, 132,000 oxen, 2,100 horses, 84,000 mules, 800 asses, 180,000 quintals of tassajo or smoked beef, 36,000 ox hides, 4,500 horse hides, and G,000 deer skins. In the environs of Barcelona there are cultivated various alimentary plants, including cocoa, of which there is a great consumption. There are not more exported from this province annually than 200,000 quintals of cocoa, 3 to 4000 quintals of indigo, about 2000 quintals of arnotto, and from 250 to 300,000 quin- tals of cotton. The merchandize is packed with much care in ox hides and deers skins of a 122 FISHERIES. square form, and those coverings are an advantage in trade. Maize is also an article of growth and exportation ; but there is seldom more of it ex- ported annually than 150, to 200,000 sacks, of about 150 pounds each. The inhabitants of the country grow a little rice for their own use, but it has not yet become an article of commerce. Although the fisheries furnish abundantly for the consumption of the inhabitants on the coasts of this district, and they derive an article of small traffic with the interior from them, they are very far from being as productive as those of Cumana, and the coasts of the Islands of Margarita, Cu- bagua, and Coche. This district, though its ex- tent is so great, has only two towns, Barcelona and Conception del Pao. In 1G34, Don Juan Urpin laid the foundations of Barcelona, on the left bank of the river Neveri, and at a league from its mouth : the chief place of the establishment in this canton was then the town of Cumanagoto, situated at two leagues higher up the river, wmich is now 7 only a miserable village. Alcedo con- founds Cumanagoto with Cumanacoa, or San Bal- taz de los Arias. As every Spanish town must have a saint for its patron, that of Cumanagoto was named San Christoval de Cumanagoto. Previous to the foundation of Barcelona there (existed a town called Maracapano, situated nearer the sea. Though its name is still found in the Dictionary of Alcedo, and on maps which are equally incorrect, even the ruins of it are not to CLIMATE. 123 be found, and the present inhabitants of Barcelona are not quite agreed about the spot on which it was situated. Though there is considerable trade at Barcelona, and it contains some opulent commercial houses, the town is badly built ; the houses are of mud, and in general very meanly furnished. The streets are filthy and miry when there is rain, and in fine weather the dust is enough to blind one, however trifling a wind may blow. Alcedo with his usual negligence says, that the climate of Barcelona is more unhealthy than that of Cumana. It is exactly the reverse : the climate of Cumana is very healthy, though hot, because it is extremely dry, and that of the town of Barcelona unhealthy, from the opposite causes. This town had in 1807, a population of 15,000 persons. Barcelona is in 10° 6' N. latitude, G7° 4' W. longitude, and twelve leagues from Cumana in a direct line ; but the windings which it is necessary to make to avoid bad roads, make it a journey of twenty hours. It is reckoned ten marine leagues by sea from the port of Barcelona to that of Cumana, and not two leagues, as M. Depons has said : from the former to the latter port there are a great number of islets, frequented by fishermen, but they afford no shelter for large vessels. The town of Conception del Pao is built in a plain situated at the other side of the range of Bergantin : the air there is wholesome, although it is very hot and much exposed to heavy rains. 124 NF-W ANDALUSIA. It owes this advantage to the comparative eleva- tion of its scite, which does not permit the water to remain stagnant, that runs into the Orinoco, and Guarapiche. It is an uncultivated country, but abounding in natural pastures which feed numerous herds that are exported by those two rivers, to the islands of Trinidad and Tobago. About the middle of the last century, Pao was only a village inhabited by people of colour ; the produce of their cattle having enriched them, the inhabitants of the adjacent countries hastened to settle themselves there. Ten years ago, they re- ceived all possible encouragement from Governor Emparan, and they now reckon three thousand persons inhabiting the little town of Pao. About one thousand more inhabit the savannas in the neighbourhood, where they are occupied with their cattle, and the cultivation of as much cocoa,, maize, and bananas as are necessary for their sub- sistence. The rest of the population of the dis- trict of Barcelona is distributed in six or seven villages, and in the Hales, places where the herds- men alone inhabit. The population of Pao, the villages and savannas, is about twenty-eight thou- sand persons, while the total population of the province of Cumana or New Andalusia, compre- hending the district of Barcelona, is ninety-six thousand souls. Historians and geographers have asserted that New Andalusia is a province depending on the government of Cumana, a country which they CLIMATE. 125 did not know where to place. A map that I have before me, places this country between the Orinoco and the Caroni. Many others are equally erroneous on this country. The fact is, that j in political geography, New Andalusia is synonymous with Cuinana. It is therefore neces- sary to say, the province of Cuinana or New Andalusia. There are few countries more va- ried, fertile, or better watered than the different districts of this province. Its mountains on the coast form a magnificent barrier opposed to the sea, and appear to be a rampart placed by nature to secure her favourite country from those hurri- canes or sudden tempests so destructive to the Antilles. Those mountains and hills are crowned with] gigantic and valuable trees, fine shrubs, aromatic plants, flowers that have the brightest and most varied tints, and perfume the atmosphere in every season. This country is, in general, very healthy, a few marshy places excepted : its climate is par- ticularly favourable to old persons and women. Here age does not present that horrible train of disease, with which it is accompanied in northern countries : gout, rheumatism, blindness, deafness and corporeal deformity are almost unknown. In that happy climate persons of both sexes enjoy almost to the last moment of life, all their physical and intellectual faculties : there, man is gently extinguished, and does not, as in cold countries, 126 GUIANA. perish a martyr to hereditary disease, or intolerable seasons. GUIANA, ou GUAYANA. This extensive region which is included between the mouths of the Orinoco and the second degree of North latitude, contains several European settlements, those of the Spanish portion are by no means the least fertile or important. Spanish Guiana has for its boundaries the Por- tuguese possessions at San Jose de Marasitanos to the south, New Granada and the Varinas to the west ; those of Cumana, Barcelona, and Caraccas on the north ; and French and Dutch Guiana to the east. The maritime bounds of this country extend one hundred and twenty leagues, from the river Amazons to the northern mouth of the Orinoco. Previous to the treaty of peace concluded in September 1801, the Portuguese possessions ex- tended from the mouth of the Amazons to the North Cape, east of the Island of Carpori : the same treaty fixed the river Carapana, as the limit of French and Portuguese Guiana : this river runs into the Amazons in 20' of North latitude, above Fort Macapa. This limit or line of demar- cation follows the course of that river, in running to its source, from whence it continues by the chain of mountains which divide the course of the CAYENNE. 127 rivers as far as the head of the Rio Blanco, supposed to be between the second and third degrees of north latitude. France has no other possession in this country than Cayenne, a colony which has always been languishing; from mismanagement, and not by any means owing to the unhealthiness of the cli- mate. It is very far from being as unwholesome as some have described it, for the climate is pre- ferable to that of the Antilles, and the soil much more fertile. The words Cayenne and Guina are evidently derived from the Indian word Guainia, the Marsitan name of the Rio Negro and surround- ing country. Europeans have therefore given the name of Guiana, or Guayna, to all the country situated between the rivers Amazon and Orinoco. The language of the Marsitan Indians is as gene- rally disseminated towards the Equator, as the Caribbean tongue is from the banks of the Esse- quibo to those of the Madelaine. According to the Spanish historians, Juan Cornepo was the first European who sailed up the Orinoco, and reconnoitred this country in 1531. Sir Walter Raleigh and Robert Dudley visited it afterwards. The chimera of El Dorado also attracted a great number of Spanish adventurers to it. Missionaries were sent there in 1576, who accused the Dutch as being the cause of their success among the natives. In 1586, Don Antonio Berreo founded a town, to which he gave the name of San Tome. 128 SAN TOME. on the right bank of the Orinoco ; but the con- tinual wars he had with the Indians, did not per- mit him to establish himself there, This town has subsequently been pillaged by the English, Dutch, and French. In 17G4, it was transferred further from the sea, and at ninety leagues from the mouths of the Orinoco, being the town now known by the name of San Tome de Angostura. During the Spanish domination, San Tome was the residence of a governor depending on the captain general of Caraccas in political and mili- tary affairs, and on the intendant of Caraccas for those of finance. It was also the residence of a bishop and chapter. The chapter and its bishop are the poorest ecclesiastics in America. There is but one city and five towns in Spanish -Guiana; San Tome, Barceloneta, Santa Rosa de Maruente, and Caicara, which is about a hun- dred leagues westward of San Tome, and San Antonio, forty leagues distant from it. There are, however, missionaries dispersed over this province. The town of San Tome had, in 1807, a popu- lation of about eight thousand five hundred per- sons, among whom were three hundred black slaves. This town is pretty well built and paved. Though it is situated in 8° 8' of latitude, and in 52° of longitude, and elevated only thirty toises above the level of the sea, it still enjoys a very mild temperature. It seldom happens that Reaumur's thermometer rises above twenty-four degrees, in rUMATF.. 129 the hottest time of the year ; and from the begin- ning of November to the end of April, it rarely rises above 20" during the day, and generally descends to 17° at night. The regular breezes, a great number of rivers and streams which water it, and the immense forests that surround it in almost every direction, are the causes which tend to diminish the excessive heat that seems natural to its latitude and trifling elevation above the sea. The remarks which I shall hereafter offer on the climate of Demarara, will apply equally to that of Spanish Guiana ; but it appears to me, that the temperature and climate of Spanish Guiana are more agreeable, no doubt because the waters of the Aripo, the Caoni, and the Orinoco have more declivity than those of the Demarara and Essequibo. It is very strange that Spanish Guiana, which is by far the most fertile country of Venezuela, should be, notwithstanding, the worst cultivated, the poorest and least peopled. I do not believe there exists a country more wholesome, better watered, more fertile and agreeable to inhabitthan that which is situated on one side between the Esse- quibo and the Caroni, and on the other, between theCaroniand Orinoco: this tract is more than forty-live leagues from north to south, and seventy leagues from east to west ; yet in its whole extent, it does not form a sixth part of Spanish Guiana! If the Jesuits hatl not founded formerly the missions which are now superintended by the K 130 COMMERCIAL POSITION, Capuchins, it would still have been covered with forests inhabited by savages and beasts of prey. The manners of the indigenous inhabitants of Guiana will be treated of in another place. I believe their number is about thirty thousand souls ; of whom fifteen thousand are united in missions. The others, such as the Arrooaks and Guaraouns, are independent, and have not em- braced Christianity. It is estimated that there are eight thousand whites dispersed in the vil- lages and huts in the remainder of the province, about six thousand Mestizos or free people of colour, and about three thousand slaves. I have already stated the population of the capital, San Tome, to be eight thousand five hundred persons ; making a grand total of fifty-two thousand. The unfavourable commercial position of the port of San Tome de Angustura, is one of the principal causes of the languishing state of agricul- ture and trade in this colony. It is necessary that there should be a commercial town nearer to the sea ; for the swiftest sailing vessels require fifteen days to sail from the mouths of the river to Angus- tura. This port becomes worse every day from the sand banks : there are rocks in that part of the port most convenient for landing merchandize, but these might be easily blown up. The town of Barceloneta, peopled with industrious Catalans, is well placed for becoming a situation of consider- able trade. To give an idea of the poverty of Guiana, M. VOVF.RTY OF GUIANA. 131 Demons says, that the tythes of it were farmed out, in 1803, at only four thousand dollars per annum. The same writer adds, that the cattle of the Capu- chin missionaries, of which he calculated the horned beasts only at 150,000, in 1803, paid no tythe, which is true ; but that does not explain why the tythe yields so little in this province. The fact is, that it paid very badly there ; because the inhabitants can easily evade it, placed as they are near large navigable rivers, where they sell in contraband almost all their produce and cattle. M. Depons admits, however, that there were exported from 1791 to 179-1, in objects produced from this province and that of Varinas, 10,381 oxen, and 3,140 mules, and that there were im- ported 200 negro slaves and 349,448 dollars. No one knew better than M. Depons, that not a fifth part of the produce of Venezuela was sent to Spain ; that three fifths of this produce at least were purchased by the English smugglers, princi- pally by those of the Island of Trinidad, and the remainder by the Swedish smugglers of St. Bar- tholomew, and the Danes of St. Thomas's, who, since the peace of 1783, have paid the Spaniards for what they bought of them, in British manufac- tures. M. Depons may have had his reasons for not divulging all those things ; for not saying that, though in no country the fiscal laws have been more rigorous than in the Spanish colonies, there was vet no part of the world where there was so much contraband trade, and where the K 2 132 PLANTS. rights of the national commerce were more vio- lated, owing to the absurdity of those laws, which will be examined in a future chapter. When by the effects of a liberal government and wise laws, Guiana arrives at that pitch of prosperity, in which the inhabitants can avail themselves of the fertility of its soil, and its pecu- liar natural riches, the numerous navigable rivers which intersect it in every direction, geographical position, &c. it will become the centre and maga- zine of an immense trade, of the importance of which, no one who has not visited the country can form an idea. It is to the banks of the Orinoco the inha- bitants of Santa Fe de Bogota will go, to ex- change the productions of their soil, for those of European industry, and for the commodities of North America ; while the first named country will also become the centre of a great trade between Peru and other parts of the world. Until now, Spanish Guiana has been a country almost wild. The only object of cultivation being a little sugar, cotton, indigo, arnotto, and excel- lent tobacco, very agreeable for smoking, because it has not the pungency of that plant in northern climates. Of aromatic and medicinal plants, the lignum quassia, and the bark of Angostura, to which the name of Bonplandia trifoliata has been given, will some day or other become great objects of trade. The oxen, horses and asses, which weie origi- WILL) HORSES. 133 nally transported from Europe, have increased greatly there, and form immense herds : a great part of them are wild in the savannas and forests, and others are kept in the natural pastures inclosed by the Spaniards, who are occupied in the care of those animals. There are some persons, each of whom possesses a tract of country of five or six leagues square, and is a proprietor of thirty or forty thousand oxen, horses, mules or asses ; but, as it is impossible for them to keep and take proper care of such a great number of beasts from the want of herdsmen, they merely brand the flanks of their animals, occasionally beating* up the forests to examine the cattle which belong to each, and to sell the best. But there are thousands of these animals which are wild in the forests, and do not belong to any one. I was enabled to ascertain a fact known to all who have travelled in this country. The horses live there in societies, generally to the number of five or six hundred, and even one thousand : they occupy immense savannas, where it is dangerous to disturb, or try to catch them. In the dry sea- son they are sometimes obliged to go two or three leagues, and even more, to find water. They set out in regular ranks of four abreast, and thus form a procession of an extent of a quarter of a league. There are always five or six scouts who pre- cede the troop by about fifty paces. If they per- ceive a man or jaguar (the American tyger), they neigh, and the troop stops : if avoided, they 131 THClft SAGAClTt. continue their march ; but if an attempt he made to pass by their squadron, they leap on the impru- dent traveller, and crush him under their feet. The best way is always to avoid them, and let them continue their route : they have also a chief who marches between the scouts and the squadron, and live or six other horses march on each side of the band ; a kind of adjutants, whose duty con- sists of hindering any individual from quitting the ranks. If any one attempts to straggle either from hunger or fatigue, he is bitten till he resumes his place, and the culprit obeys with his head hanging down. Three or four chiefs march at the rear guard, at five or six paces from the troop. I had often heard, at Trinidad, of this discipline among the wild horses, and confess that I could scarcely believe it ; but what I have just stated is a fact, which I witnessed twice on the banks of the Guarapiche, where I encamped five days for the express purpose of seeing those organized troops pass. I have met on the shores of the Orinoco, herds of fifty to a hundred wild oxen : a chief always marched at the head and another at the rear of these. The people of the country have assured me, that the wild asses, when they travel, observe the same discipline as the horses ; but the mules, though they also live in troops, are continually fighting with each other, and it has not been ob- served that they have any chief. They, however, unite at the appearance of a common enemy, and VARINAS. 135 display still more trick and address than the horses in avoiding the snares which are laid for catching them, and also for escaping when taken. I remember to have seen one of these wild mules escape from a park, where he had been kept at Carupano, by throwing himself on his belly, and feigning to be dead : suddenly he passed his head under one of the bars of the gate, pushed it open, and rushed into the town : above thirty persons ran after him in every direction, and after a pursuit of two hours, they were obliged to give up the chase. It would be too tedious to recount all the tricks and stratagems employed by this animal to escape us : we finished the hunt by laughing at each other, for leaving him at liberty. PROVINCE OF VARINAS. The town and territory of Varinas were de- tached in 1787, from the government of Mara- caybo ; when there was a portion of the province of Caraccas joined to it, and it was made a sepa- rate government. This province, which previous to this period, had been greatly neglected by the mother country, has since increased considerably, in point of agriculture and population. The town of Varinas had, in 1787, a population of twelve thousand inhabitants. According to M. de Hum- boldt, it is situated in 7° 33 of latitude, and 70° 22' West longitude from the meridian of Greenwich. 136 PRODUCTIONS. This province has only three other towns, which are San Jayme, containing seven thousand souls ; San Fernando d'Apure, six thousand souls. IYL de Hum- boldt places San Fernando in 7° 53' North latitude, and TO 20' W. longitude. Pedraza is situated at the foot of the mountains which separate the plains of Varinas from the province of Maracaybo : this little town had, in 1807, a population of three thousand souls. The total population of this province, comprising those of the towns I have just mentioned, amounted in 1807, to 141,000 souls. This country is still in its infancy, though its territory is not inferior in fertility to any other part of South America. It is only since the last twenty years that sugar, coffee, indigo and cot- ton have been cultivated there. Formerly the inhabitants grew only cocoa and the provisions of the country necessary for their consumption. Their articles for exportation were cattle and tobacco, famous in every market of the world. It is asserted at Caraccas and Trinidad, that the tobacco grown in the neighbourhood of the town of Varinas, is subject to be damaged by a worm, that introduces itself into the roll, and reduces it to powder in a short time. I have, however, bought some of this tobacco, which was in good condition after it had been kept two years, and worthy of its ancient reputation. The fail- ing attributed to it for some years past, in the INHABITANTS. 137 Trinidad and Venezuela markets, no doubt pro- ceeds from some accidental cause, or the negli- gence of those who prepared it. The province of Varinas Is watered by nume- rous streams, and several navigable rivers which How into the great Portuguese river, and the Apure, the principal tributary of the Orinoco. The inhabitants of this country lead a pastoral life : they live in the pastures, surrounded w T ith nu- merous herds. Though in the midst of abundance, great natural wealth, and all the necessaries of life_, they have not the means of purchasing any thing belonging to the luxury of dress, furniture, and European liquors ; because they have no direct communication with the neighbouring colonies, and being placed in the interior of the country, they are obliged to sell their produce and cattle, at a miserable price, to the smugglers of San Tome de Angustura and of Caraccas. But when the present contest terminates, and freedom of trade follows, it will become one of the richest and best peopled of this part of the world ; for in general its climate is no less healthy than its soil is fertile. There are few indigenous natives in this province : they are almost all assembled in a mission of the Andulusian Capuchins, situated at five or six leagues from San Fernando do Apure. I believe there may be about six hundred of them. Other civilized Indians live with the whites and mestizos in the pastures. There are scarcely six thousand slaves in the population of the province of Vari- 138 MAKACAYBO. nas, and these are only slaves in name; for they live in the greatest familiarity with their masters, and are equally well fed, lodged, and clothed. MARACAYBO. The town of Maracaybo, or New Zamora, was, until the beginning of the seventeenth century, the capital of Venezuela. When the town of Ca- raccas had become the capital of the general go- vernment, the town of Maracaybo was no longer any more than the residence of the governor of this district, which took the name of province. New Zamora was founded in 1571, by Alonzo Pacheco, four years after the foundation of Ca- raccas. Coro, as already seen, was the residence of the governors in the time of the Welsers ; but this town remained in the distinct government of Caraccas, when the country was divided into provinces. Maracaybo is well built of stone : its climate is healthy though hot. It was calculated in 1807, that it contained twenty -five thousand inhabit- ants, of whom five thousand were slaves. The natives of the town of Maracaybo have, in the Spa- nish colonies, the reputation of being very witty. The Jesuits had a college there, which pro- duced some distinguished scholars, and it became the literary town of America; but with that order of clergy, the establishments for public instruction in this province also fell. The Creoles ME U IDA. 139 of Maracaybo, however, preserve a decided taste for literature. But what is the use of literature if not directed towards its proper object, that of promoting civilization and public liberty ? The youth of Maracaybo, who have received from nature great talents and imagination, place their principal glory in distinguishing themselves by cavilling and subtlety of argument. Thus the people of Maracaybo are reputed among their neighbours as deceitful and litigious; but the women have the character of being generally virtuous and much attached to their duties. Next to Maracaybo, the most important town of this province is Merida, founded in 1558 by Juan Rodrigues Suare : this town is the seat of a bishop and chapter ; it has also a seminary for young ecclesiastics, and a college which pretends to rival the university of Caraccas. It was, for some years, that of the provincial government, towards the middle of the last century. This town is situated between three rivers, which form an island of its district, and discharge them- selves into the lake of Maracaybo. The position of this town near the mountains, renders its tem- perature very variable : however, the inhabitants assert that by wearing woollen clothes, as good health may be enjoyed there as any where else. Truxillowas founded in 1520, by Diego de Para- des, and once considered the handsomest town in this part of America; but it was pillaged and burnt by the pirate Grammont in 1078, who had landed 140 POPULATION. eighty leagues from it. All the inhabitants who could not escape, were cut to pieces. The ruins of its buildings are the monuments of its past grandeur. There were twelve thousand inhabitants in it in 1807. This town is situated among the mountains, and therefore enjoys a very mild temperature. In the vallies of its dis- trict are cultivated all the tropical productions ; and on the hills and elevated situations, wheat, vines, and other articles produced in the tempe- rate regions of Europe. Gibraltar is another little town placed near the lake, and on the shore opposite to the town of Maracaybo : it contains three thousand inhabitants. The population of the province of Maracaybo was in 1807, 174,000 persons. Population of the Provinces of Venezuela, in 1807. Caraccas Cumana Island of Margarita Spanish Guiana Varinas Maracaybo - 496,772 inhabitants 9G,000 16,200 52,000 141,000 171,000 Total 975,972 inhabitants. The whites among this population are about 200,000, in which number there are scarcely twenty thousand Europeans : the free people of MARGARITA. 141 colour, the mixtures of European, indigenous and African blood, were to the number of 435,000 ; the negro or mulatto slaves 58,000 ; the Indians were about 282,000 : of whom 210,000 were united in missions of practiced trades in the towns and villages. According to a census made in Ja- nuary, 1811, the population exceeded one million of souls. ISLAND OF MARGARITA. On the 5th of January, 1807, I departed from Carupano, on the coast of the province of Cu- mana, to visit the Island of Margarita. The passage is about thirteen leagues.* Having sailed at six o'clock in the morning in an open boat, we arrived at Pueblo de la Mar about noon. On landing I went to the commandant to shew him my passport, and met the most obliging reception from him, as well as from his wife, a young and very pretty Spanish Creole. He told me that he had two Frenchmen established in the town, and that perhaps I might be desirous of seeing them, upon which he sent to conduct me to their houses. They were two Provencal traders, formerly residents in Martinico. They received me with that pleasure which is experi- enced by those who meet their countrymen at II is but eight leagues from the island to the continent. U2 AN ORIGINAL. two thousand leagues from home; an enjoyment, of which a man who has never quitted his native soil to travel in distant countries, cannot form an idea. One of those Provencals had married a woman of the country, carried on a little business, and seemed to be in very easy circumstances. The other was a complete original : by his dress he might be taken for a sailor ; he had no other clothes than a pair of trowsers, blue shirt and a handkerchief on his head. Those two persons lived in the same house, and they invited me to pass the day with them. I was not a little sur- prized to find a great deal of information under the rough exterior of my second host. I inquired how he spent his time, and how, with so much instruction, and a mind so cultivated, he did not die of ennui in that wild place, deprived of the society of men of education. He answered, that he was partly occupied in teaching a little Latin to some young Creoles who were destined for the church, and the rest of his time he employed in learning English and German. He added that in the five years during which he had led this life, he had only two occasions of conversing with Germans, and very seldom with Englishmen : however, by dint of learning words, and of speak- ing from vocabularies, he had succeeded in learn- ing to speak those two languages with tolerable facility. " Having lost the little fortune I made at Martinico, when I have acquired two thou- sand francs, I shall return to Europe, from THE VIRGIN. 143 whence I can go and settle in the United States of America : with my knowledge of the German, English, Spanish and Italian languages, and that of book-keeping, I shall find the means of placing myself advantageously in some large commercial town.' 1 Such was the project of M. Isnard, the name of this persevering polyglott. My two countrymen invited me after dinner to take a walk on the beach : while there, I saw a number of persons assembled in the gallery of a house situated on the sea shore : we went into it, and I was presented to the master, an old man of eighty years of age, and very active. He was occupied with some young girls, in dressing a figure of the Virgin, which was to make its appearance in the evening (it was twelfth day,) at the benediction. " Well, my friend," said the old Spanish creole to me, " I'll lay a wager you have never seen a Holy Virgin more magnifi- cently and elegantly adorned than mine ? You see on her dress all the lace and the finest ribands of these young ladies. Admire that beautiful crown of pearls ! There are as many in it as there are days in the year." I reckoned them, and there were really three hundred and sixty-five beautiful pearls. I applauded his zeal highly. " At last," said he, " I am happy to find a Frenchman who is a good catholic : we have had some of your coun- trymen here already,sailors, and certainly heretics. I heard them say, for I understand a little French, that it was a great pity to put so many fine pearls 144 SULTANAS. on a statue : oh los demonios ! los hereticos ! Oh the devils, the heretics ! Can any thing be more agreeable to God, than ornamenting the imma- culate Virgin, his mother!" A moment afterwards, the Holy Virgin was placed on a bier, from whence hung several rose coloured ribbands, and each of the living virgins who were with the old Spaniard, held one of those ribands : the figure was thus carried by four churchwardens, and received at the church door by the priest, the proprietor of the statue held the censer. When the ceremony was over, I returned to his house, chatting with the Creole virgins of the procession. The freedom of their conversation and manners surprized me. I inquired of my countrymen who those young girls were ; and they informed me that four ofrthem were the sultanas of the old beau, who was extremely jealous : he kept them locked up at night, and had them watched during the day by two of his negroes ; this did not, however, prevent them from having lovers and intrigues among the travellers who visited the port ; a system which allowed the two inspecting negroes to live in the midst of luxury. The other vestals of the train followed the same profession. Those people firmly believe that their devotion to the Virgin Mary, and the absolution of their priest, expiate all their sins, even to robbery and murder : full of these ideas, they live strangers to all mora- A PROJECT. "145 lity, and give themselves up without constraint or remorse to all the brutality of their appetites. In walking along the beach, I met those French sailors, the heretical despisers of the Vir- gin's statue. By my appearance, they also took me for a seaman, and soon became as free with me, as if we had known each other for many years : they informed me of a truly piratical scheme which they had just formed : it was sim- ply that of carrying off the Virgin's crown of pearls during the night, and depositing it on board the privateer, then lying at anchor in the roadstead. All I could say to dissuade them from this scheme had no effect : I then assumed an air of authority, and made them believe I was a French officer going to Caraccas on govern- ment business, and that if they committed such a base action, I would accuse them to Admiral Villaret, governor of Martinique, and to Gene- ral Ernouf, governor of Guadaloupe. My me- nace had the desired effect, and the crown of the Madona del Pueblo de la Mar was suffered to deco- rate the Virgin ! After having dined with my countrymen, the Provencals, I departed for Pompatar, the prin- cipal port of the island ; my son, servant, and self were each mounted on a mule, which is the only mode of conveyance in this island. A fourth mule carried my baggage, among which were two large flasks full of old Catalan wine ; but being badly tied on, one of them fell to the ground and L 14G POM PATAU. broke in the middle of the town, or rather the village of Pueblo de la Mar. I immediately saw- five or six Creole women run with coitis* to gather up the spilt wine, even what was on the ground, and drinking it with an avidity that induced me to suppose they had never tasted wine before. The inhabitants of this place are very poor, as are the greater part of those on the island: they are as fond of their country as the Barbadians, but not so vicious. As in Barbadoes, I did not hear of those abominable mothers who offer their daughters to strangers for a pecuniary consideration. The melancholy ideas which had constantly haunted me, since my departure from Trinidad, acquired a still more dismal tint on viewing the desolate scene here, which seemed to lie under a malediction. J saw nothing around me but cactus arborescens, some mimosas covered with thorns, and plants whose leaves were full of prickles and points, all of which grew on sandy soils. Here and there I met with a few goats, some lean and sorry mules and asses, which having lost their hoofs, had lamed themselves in trying to graze on the leaves and flowers of those vegetables ; but the humming birds, and the harmonious notes of other tropical birds, diverted my attention occa- sionally from this gloomy spectacle. At length, after a journey of an hour and a half, we arrived at Cups made of calcbashes cut in two. A CLERICAL GAMBLEK. 147 Pompatar, and put up at the house of a Corsican sailor, to whom I was recommended. I remained in this island until the first week of Lent.* One day about four o'clock in the afternoon, being wholly unoccupied, I went into a house where there were billiards and games of hazard : I saw an old Spanish priest brought to the door in a sedan chair, who had a gold cross embroidered on his cossack on the left side: he was supported into the gaming room by his two negro bearers. This old man could scarcely crawl along, in con- sequence of a fit of the gout. He took a place among the gamesters, who were there, as in all other countries, the most worthless of the com- munity. Other players were the officers of three French privateers, and some English smugglers, whose vessels were at anchor in the roads of Pom- * The Editor is persuaded that the following passages will not fail to arrest the attention of every thinking mind; for surely it is impossible to contemplate without emotion, the striking picture here introduced, of the abandoned profligacy and disgusting hypocrisy, which all who have visited those unhappy countries acknowledge to be the characteristics of the Spanish and Hispano-American priesthood. Would to Heaven ! that this powerful exposition of practices, at once so insulting to the common sense of mankind, and so derogatory from the beautiful simplicity of True Religion, may assist the glorious efforts of a free and enlightened press, in tearing off the flimsy veil with which bigotry and self-interest have contrived to shroud truth and reason from the deluded many in other quarters of the globe. But, alas ! the regions that are yet bound by the chains of papal superstition, are not the only theatres whereon the religious Tartuffe is still permitted to play a too prominent part. L 2 148 A SERMON. patar. I inquired who this old priest was, and heard that he was the principal officer of the Inquisition, and the most inveterate gamester of the island, who passed all the time in which he was not engaged by the functions of his holy office in this receptacle. In spite of the horror in which I have always held such places, I remained there until six o'clock in the evening, for in travelling everything should be seen. The inquisitor having risen from his seat at six o'clock, announced that he was going to preach his Lent sermon, and that after the sermon he would return and resume his place. I followed this strange kind of preacher to church, to hear what could proceed from such unhallowed lips. The subject of his sermon was purgatory ; and I give a specimen of it, which merits notice, as it will give an idea of the religious opinions and instruction of the country. " When any of ye, my brethren, becomes sick, he hastens to send for a physician, and spares no expence to obtain relief from his sufferings and effectuate his cure. And what are corporeal suf- ferings of the most painful kind, which we expe- rience in this inferior world, in comparison with the dreadful torments by which souls detained in purgatory are afflicted ? Nothing, my brethren, nothing ! The inspired writers of the holy Roman church assure us, that the torments which are suffered in that place of expiation and purifica- tion, are, in every respect, equal to those of hell ; with this sole difference, that in purgatory, angels BLASPHEMY. 149 are the executioners of divine vengeance, and the souls detained there feel a certainty that their sufferings will have an end. But that termina- tion, when does it take place ? For a very small number it is at the end of a few days ; for others, in some months! others, after many years: in short, it is prolonged to many centuries, accord- ing as the venial sins they expiate, are removed from, or approach to the nature of mortal sin. However, your kind and tender mother, the holy Roman church, august spouse of Jesus Christ, to whom alone he has confided the care of your souls, and without the pale of which there is nought but error and eternal damnation ; this good and tender mother has conferred on all her ministers the power of the keys ; that is to say, my brethren, that of shutting and opening the gates of purgatory, and of paradise. Thus it is, that through the merits of the indulgences granted by our most holy father the pope, the bishops, and by the blessed sacrifice of the mass, we can at all times open the gates of purgatory and para- dise, and introduce into the seat of eternal felicity souls purified by the holy fire. " Oh ! how adorable is the mercy of our Saviour! Oh! how precious is that power which he has conferred on his church ! but how ungrate- ful you are for so much kindness ; how insensible to the soft sentiments of pity and of sympathy for your suffering neighbours and friends ! " The church declares to you by my mouth, 160 PURGATORY. that the pains of purgatory are not inferior to those of hell, and that their duration alone makes the difference. I shall sketch to you, my brethren, the picture of those sufferings. There are felt at the same time the extremes of heat and cold ; that is to say, that whilst one has, for instance, the feet and hands frozen, the other parts of the body are a prey to the devouring fire. Horrible serpents introduce themselves into the bowels and entrails of some, whilst their neighbours are cover- ed with nauseous reptiles which suck their blood , and disgusting toads eject their scum and urine on the faces of others ! They are also tormented with the most excruciating hunger and thirst ! ! ! Such, my brethren, are the frightful torments experi- enced by those of your relations and friends now there ; such is also the fate that awaits almost all of you ; and I venture to say all, unless I can suppose that you possess the purity and innocence of angels at the moment your souls shall be sepa- rated from your bodies. " It is, however, still in your power to put an end to these cruel calamities, and to permit those unhappy beings to enjoy the celestial beatitude; which is, you know, my brethren, by taking indul- gences and causing masses to be said for their deliverance. And yet, how negligent you are of this pious duty! Ah, wretches! stony hearts! the same fate awaits you ! God grant that your children, that your neighbours, when you die, may have as little compassion on you, and forget HYPOCRISY. 151 you as soon, as you shew lack of pity and remem- brance of those who are gone before you !" At this pathetic morsel of the sermon, there was nothing to be heard in the church but groans and blows on the breast. Four churchwardens were busily employed, two carrying about indulgences for sale, and two others receiving money for saying masses. When the distributers of indulgences passed me, I took two of them, one for purgatory, and the other to have leave to eat meat and eggs. The latter was very necessary to show my hosts, and enable me to eat meat without reproach. Two days afterwards I went to Assoncion, the capital of the colony : there I saw the inquisitor, who was walking on a terrace with another priest ; he saluted me kindly, and invited me into his friend's house. " Well," said he, " I saw you the evening before last at church ; I was charmed with your attention: you bought some indulgences, this was really edifying in a Frenchman ! But then, tell me sincerely, were you satisfied with my sermon V — " I could not be otherwise, most reverend father : above all I admired the fertility of your imagination, and the frightful picture of purgatory. They must be heretics or infidels who would not take indulgences and cause masses to be said, after hearing a sermon so hideously pathetic !" Though my reply was pronounced in a most serious tone, the old inquisitor burst into a fit of immoderate laughter, and of the most malignant 152 A LAV SERMOX. kind. " I venture to say, that in your own mind you make a good jest of my sermon, and say to yourself, oh, the mountebank! the impostor!" u By no means: on the contrary I have the greatest respect, most reverend father, for all you utter," " You are only ridiculing me ; but what the devil should I preach to those ignorant and vulgar beings who were my audience? The pure lan- guage of the gospel w T ould be as unintelligible as that of reason to their brutish minds. These dis- gusting and frightful images, of toads, reptiles, serpents, icy cold, and devouring flames, can alone move their coarse faculties, and are very well adapted to their limited understandings." — " Since you speak to me with so little reserve, most reve- rend father, will you permit me to reply to you in the same manner ?" "Most certainly," replied the old man. " Do you not believe, it often happens that many of your congregation, shocked at the absurdity of your purgatory, finish by the opinion that the whole doctrine of Christianity is only an imposture ? What happens then ? You had taught them the moral duties, founded on this belief j which they despise and reject, and they renounce the practice of duties prescribed by the gospel and reason, the same day in which they cease to believe in those dogmas. If you would limit yourself to instructing them in evangelical morality, they would be less vicious, because they would then believe in principles, which far from being revolting to common sense, have nothing A CIIAUACTLK. 153 but what is agreeable and consoling 1 to a well dis- posed mind, when united with a good judgment, For the greater part of those who persevere in their faith, confess freely that they make their religion consist in outw T ard ceremonies and trifling observances. You have given so much impor- tance to those external practices, that it is in them most of your flock place their religion. They serve as a covering to hypocrisy, vices, and even to crimes in many others. I know a devotee who is the most vain, violent, malignant and envious of mankind : he has passed his life in pining at the prosperity of his neighbours, slan- dering them, quarrelling with his wife, and sub- mitting to all her caprices. This man hates his children, and obliges them by every kind of ill usage W abandon their home : yet this is a sancti- fied man, who goes to church two or three times each day, and would believe himself damned if he were to eat meat on Friday, &c. His wife was the most refined hypocrite from the age of twelve : at that period she was turned out of a convent for a most perfidious and base action. She, too, has played the saint all her life, and under that mask has imposed on weak minds; and has always been seconded by rogues and hypocrites, w T ho represent her as an angel. It is true that she has enriched more than one of them with the pro- perty of her family, which she has reduced to poverty. Her son happening to surprise her one day, she fearing that he would discover it to his 154 ADVICE. father, employed all her influence with her hus- band, who was weak-minded and passionate, to render his son odious to him. Oppressed with ill usage, the young man was obliged to leave his country. Some time afterwards, having perceiv- ed that her daughter was acquainted with the same fact, she did all in her power to turn the girl's father against her. At last, the daughter was stabbed by a maid servant. This crime was accompanied with the most dreadful circum- stances. u You know, reverend father, that bigots are generally reputed malignant, egotistical and de- ceitful ; yet those are the three vices against which Jesus Christ has warned us. Why do you not preach continually to the faithful the par- don of injuries, charity, and sincerity ? The practice of those virtues, I know, requires grea- ter efforts over ourselves, than abstinence from flesh-meats in Lent, or a conformity to frivolous ceremonies. I see that you have a mind too well formed, and too observing, not to be aware that a great number of believers think they ex- piate all their vices, and render themselves agree- able to God, by the exercise of these practices. Kmploy your eloquence to destroy this baneful error, to unmask the hypocrites ; thunder against them, as Jesus Christ did against the Pharisees; instruct young people, who are naturally sin- cere and susceptible, that it is possible to become agreeable to Heaven, and estimable among men. INDULGENCES. 155 only by the practice of those virtues, which con- sist in rendering our fellow creatures better and more happy." Here ended my sermon. The inquisitor con- fessed frankly that he thought as I did ; " but," added he, " if I were to preach according to your principles, what difference would there be be- tween me and a Protestant preacher ? I have no desire to become a reformer, I would lose my time in that vocation, with a people so ignorant and de- praved as my flock. The most rational and use- ful thing I can do, is to instruct them according to the principles of the belief in which we have been brought up." As bulls and indulgences formed a topic in the sermon of the Margarita preacher, I think that in displaying the virtues attributed to them in the Spanish colonies, I shall fulfil the duty I have imposed on myself of depicting the man- ners, religion, and intellectual acquirements of the inhabitants of the countries I have visited. I know that what I am about to relate w T ill displease certain persons, who twenty years ago would have thought I had spoken with too much moderation; and others, whose intentions I re- spect much more than their knowledge. I do not, nor do I wish to belong to any party or fac- tion : those to whom I am well known, know how opposite to my disposition it is to insult any person whatever. But in describing a country so little known to Europeans, a country which 156 BULLS. is on the point of becoming so conspicuous in the political world, I ought not to omit any thing that may contribute to complete the descrip- tion of its inhabitants. The bulls of indulgences, as every one knows, derive their origin from the crusades. Pope Alexander VI. made a crusade of the conquest of America, by granting indulgences to those who engaged in it ; and though for a long time war has not been carried on against the natives, still in- dulgences are annually sent to Spanish America. The titles of these bulls are as follows : Bull of the living ; Bull of the dead ; Bull of white-meats and eggs ; Bull of composition.* The reader will not perhaps be displeased to be informed of their miraculous properties : I shall begin with that called the common bull of the living. In the first place, all the grace and favour of * A Spaniard whom I have met since this work was put to press, has told me I had forgotten the bull of the Cruzada ; a bull by which the Popes granted a great number of indulgences, privileges and exemptions in this and the other world, to those who buy them. This bull is sold at two reals and a half (65c/.) to the com- mon people, the rich pay for it in proportion to their fortunes. It renders annually to the King of Spain £'170,000, of which the New World pays one half. It was granted to the Kings of Spain and Portugal to assist them in making war against the Mahometans of Africa and Asia; and as for a longtime those wars have ceased, the produce of the bull of the Cruzada has serv- ed or was deemed to serve in aid of the expences of wars against the Indians who refused to embrace the Catholic religion. BULL OF THE LIVING. 157 Heaven, that can be desired, is attached to its possession : with this bull in the pocket, and faith as to its power in the head, a firm believer cannot fail to obtain whatever he demands from Heaven ; and if it should happen that his peti- tions were not heard, it is not, as may well be supposed, the fault of the bull, but the insuffi- ciency of his faith. In such a case, it is neces- sary to buy and re-buy other copies of the bull, until what is intreated of Heaven be obtained. A volume would not be sufficient to explain and enumerate all its virtues ; I shall limit myself to indicating the most valuable. The fortunate possessor of the bull of the liv- ing, if he had murdered his father, mother and children, if he were guilty of incest and of crimes the most outrageous to nature, has only to seek a priest, who, at the sight of this miraculous pa- per, cannot refuse him absolution ; when suddenly he becomes reconciled to Heaven, and his con- science remains as tranquil, as far removed from remorse, as that of Caesar Borgia, when, furnished with the previous absolution given to him by his father, he departed on an excursion to assassinate or poison some prince of his time. Blasphemies against God, atheism, &c. are also pardoned in those who buy this bull. There is but one crime (without doubt, the worst of all crimes,) incre- dulity in the oracles of the Vatican, vulgarly called heresy, which resists their power. He who buys the bull of the living, enjoys the 158 P IMC liS. inestimable advantage in a hot climate, of being' able to hear the masses which are said every day in these countries, one hour before sunrise ; to have it celebrated at his own home when the church of his parish is interdicted; to be buried in consecrated ground, if the church-yard is inter- dicted ; to eat meat on fast days, and all the meals required by the appetite on days of abstinence, saving some exceptions which the present Pope has commanded by his bulls of January 1, 1804. He who buys the bull in Spanish America, gains certain indulgences of the greatest impor- tance in the world to come, of which the unhap- py European Catholic can only avail himself by making a journey to Rome. But what appears most wonderful in this bull, is, that notwith- standing all that is promised by the acquisition of one copy, yet he who buys two of them ob- tains double advantages : a mysterious virtue of the greatest value to rich believers ! The tariff of this bull is proportioned to the rank and wealth of the faithful. FIRST CLASS. For viceroys, captains general, their wives, and each of their full-grown children, fifteen dollars. SECOND CLASS. For bishops, inquisitors, abbots, priors, canons, dukes, marquisses, counts, and other noblemen ; BULL OF THE DEAD. 159 for members of the audiencia, general officers, colonels, corregidors, alcaldes, &c. ; as also per- sons having a capital of twelve thousand dollars ; even for persons who having only a capital of twelve hundred dollars, arc yet alcaldes or mayors of villages, three dollars. THIRD CLASS. The bull of the living costs one dollar and a half to each person having a capital of six thousand dol- lars, without any civil or military employment. FOURTH CLASS. The poor who desire to avail themselves of the advantages attached to this bull, may obtain it at the moderate price of two reals and a half, about one shilling. After the bull of the living naturally comes that of the dead : it is a real passport, by virtue of which a soul goes direct to Heaven, without having been purified by the fire, and other tor- ments of purgatory. As soon as a man dies, a relation or friend goes to a priest to buy a bull, on which is written the name of the deceased, and at that instant his soul flies, as pure as that of an angel, to the asylum of the blessed. The wealthy, and persons in easy circumstances, pay six reals for this bull, about half a crown, and the poor two reals and a half. I have more than once heard the poor in this 160 RELIGIOUS IMPOSTURE. country lament, and utter the most frightful shrieks at the death of their relations ; the grief for their loss was trifling in comparison with that felt by knowing they were in purgatory, from the want of this trifling sum for delivering them. They run about in every direction, begging alms with tears, in the hope of procuring as much money as may enable them to buy bulls for re- leasing the souls of their relations from purgatory. I have more than once had the happiness of calm- ing their grief, relieving a soul from that state, contributing to the comforts of a Spanish priest, and of attracting to myself a thousand benedic- tions, for a quarter of a dollar. Yet let it not be supposed that these bulls and indulgences dispense with the saying of masses for the dead. Alas ! there are many venial sins that have a strong resemblance to mortal ones ! Masses only, and masses by hundreds, can, in this case, mitigate the anger of the great Judge : who, affected by these numerous sacrifices, consents to treat an equivocal sin as a venial one. In all the churches of this country there are pictures repre- senting heaven and purgatory : in a corner of the picture is a priest saying mass ; at the side are people giving money for the celebration of mass, and souls starting out of purgatory when masses have been said for them. They are received by the archangel St. Michael, who is depicted hold- ing a pair of scales in his hand, one of which is full of the money for the masses, and appears to BULL OF COMPOSITION. 161 sink, whilst the red hot souls, like boiled lobsters, throw themselves into the other scale, from which they fly to Heaven ! THE BULL OF WHITE MEAT AND EGGS. All the world knows that arsenic is not more injurious to the body, than eggs and milk to the soul during Lent : but as there are stomachs which, in that time of abstinence, cannot do without milk and eggs, the Roman church dis- penses with its observance to persons who buy this bull. It has, in its kindness, established four rates, by which all the faithful, poor or rich, may profit by this indulgence. The greatest person- ages pay six dollars each, the second class three dollars, the third class one dollar and a half, and the poor three reals. THE BULL OF COMPOSITION. Of all possible bulls, this is without doubt the most wonderful, and that of which the moral re- sults are the most evident. Pope Alexander VI. was very worthy of being the author of it ; but that which 1 cannnot comprehend is, that the said pope having had virtuous and enlightened pon- tiff's for his successors, they did not desist from sending such a bull to America : so much do men stickle for their authority and wealth, whatever may have been their origin ! Persons who are little versed in these matters, M 102 A NEW DOCTRINE. will find a difficulty in believing that this bull has the virtue of rendering the robber or usurper of the property of others, the legitimate proprietor. The author of the bull had stipulated as a con- dition in it, that the thief should not know the person he had robbed : thus, a pickpocket who in a crowd steals a watch or a purse, he who robs on the highway or in a house, becomes legitimate proprietor of what he has stolen, provided he knows not whom he has plundered. The com- missary general of the holy crusade published at Toledo, in 1758, very curious instructions for the faithful of Spanish America; instructions which singularly extend the faculties of the bull. Never did casuist or Jesuit imagine any thing more ingenious for calming consciences troubled with remorse : nothing can be more lucid and con- clusive than the following reasonings of the casuist of Toledo. All our property coming from God, who has a right to deprive us of it, and give it to others by whatever means he may deem proper to use, it is evident that our most holy father the Pope, who represents God on earth, ought also to have the right to legitimate the possession of such property. It is that which is obtained by employing in pious works a part of what has been acquired by fraud or violence, and it is the con- fessor who regulates amicably with his penitent the quota for those pious works, or in other words the portion for the church !" The bull of compo- sition costs two dollars and a quarter without dis- U)l> V.7. DM AGUIltRK. 163 Unction to every one ; but there are objects stolen, of which it is not possible to become proprietor, without buying fifty bulls. A passage, remarkable for the generosity and nobleness of its sentiments, occurs in the edict of the commissary general of the holy crusade, dated Madrid, September 14th, 1801. u The price (of bulls) is somewhat raised, owing to the new expences of government, and the necessity of redeeming the royal bonds, which a scarcity of money had caused to be issued in time of war !" A statement of what the bulls produce to the clergy and exchequer will be found in another chapter. The Island of Margarita, which was disco- vered by Columbus in 1498, was granted by the Emperor Charles V. to Marceto de Villalo- bos in 1524: it was in 1561, the theatre of the robberies and cruelties of the famous Lopez de Aguirre.* This island gave birth to Francisco * Lopez de Aguirre, a Basque, was an audacious robber, who spread terror in South America, about the middle of the sixteenth century, during the civil wars in Peru, between the partizans of Pizarro and Almagro. He had been sent by the viceroy Gon- zales Pizarro to explore the navigation and country near the river Amazons, under the orders of Don Pedro d'Orsua. The banditti who composed this expedition, murdered Orsua. because he was a moral man, and wanted to restrain them with in the limits of their duty. They proclaimed Lopez d'Aguiire their chief, and gave him the title of king. After having ravaged the kingdom of New Grenada, the Island of Trinidad, and that of Margarita, the countries of Venezuela, Santa Martha, &c. Aguirre became the executioner of his accomplices, of whom he daily put some to M 2 164 FAX A It DO. Faxardo, celebrated in the annals of Venezuela, for his heroic virtues and humanity. He was the son of a Spaniard of the noble family of Faxardo, and of Donna Isabel, daughter of Charayma, cacique of the tribe of Guaiqueris, who inhabit the vallies of Mayna, in the province of Caraccas. The chronicles of that country, and Oviedo y Ban os, the historian of Venezuela, represent this Indian lady, as one of those women whom nature occasionally produces, to command men by the ascendency of their genius. I regret much that the limits and plan of this work do not permit me to recount all that Fax- ardo and his mother did for civilizing the Indians, and subjecting them more by persuasion than force to the Castilian government. This extra- ordinary man, who was destitute of education, but in whom nature had united the most sublime virtues, great talents, and heroic courage ; after having rendered the highest services to his countrymen and to the Castilian monarch, was death, because he fancied nothing but conspiracies against him ; they all, with the exception of one, abandoned him at the battle of Borburata, and went over to the royal camp, crying, " God *av»- the king !" The commandant, Garcia de Parades, granted them pardon in the name of his sovereign. Reduced to despair, he addressed these words to his only daughter, who accompanied him in his travels : " Commend your soul to God, for I am going to take your life, that you may never have the shame of being called the daughter of a traitor;" and a moment afterwards he shot her in the breast with his musket. While wandering about pursued by despair and remorse, he was taken, shot and quar- tered, after having requested a few minutes respite, to make important discoveries for the interest? of hi* sovereign. MARGARITA. 165 thrown out of favour and forgotten; a Victim to the jealousy of base and contemptible calum- niators. Faxardo built at the port of Caravellada, near La Guayra, a town, to which he gave the name of Collado, in honour of the governor of that name. It was he also who discovered the gold mine of San Francisco, which gained him the hatred of the inhabitants of Tocuyo, who also had mines. The Governor Collado, jealous of the glory of Faxardo, exiled him to the town to which he had given his name ; and which it soon lost, to resume that of Caravellada, as if to punish the governor for his mean jealousy. Since that time La Guayra has become the principal port of Caraccas, while Caravellada has dwindled into a village inhabited by fishermen. Though the soil of Margarita is arid and un- productive, this island soon became populous, as the pearl fishery attracted numerous navigators. The Dutch, jealous of its prosperity, burnt and destroyed Pompatar, the principal town in 1662. The colony of Margarita was for a long time only a district of the province of Cumana, and governed by a chief who had the title of lieu- tenant governor, under the orders of the Gover- nor of Cumana. It is about twenty-five years since the Spanish cabinet made it a separate go- vernment, owing to the importance of its posi- tion, both in a military and commercial light. However, the Governor of Cumana, who was 106 VILLAGK8. himself subordinate to the captain general of Ca- raccas, preserved the title of military inspector of the Government of Margarita, which was the reason of its being considered as a dependency to that of Cumana, before the late revolution. The Island of Margarita has three ports, the most important is that of Pompatar, situated on the south-east coast. It is a large and fine basin, in which vessels are defended from winds and tempests: its entrance is protected on one side by a fortress, and on the other by batteries. Those are the principal fortifications of the island : there is a considerable contraband trade there with the English and French colonies, &c. and also with Cumana. Pueblo de la Mar is another port, or to speak more correctly, an open roadstead ; it is a place of little trade, and is situated at a league and a half westward of Pompatar. Pueblo del Norte is, as its name indicates, a village situated in the northern part of the island : a coral reef renders the entrance of this port difficult to mariners who are not accustomed to it. Two batteries defend its entrance against privateers. Near this port is a village inhabited only by fishermen. The vallies of San Juan, Santa Margarita, and Los Robles, have each a village which bears their name. Assoncion is the capital of the island, and the residence of the governor. This little town is pretty well built, although its inhabitants are not wealthy ; but there is every appearance PRODUCTIONS. 167 of comfort and industry there. It has two parish churches, and a convent of recollets. During Lent in 1807, 1 attended a ball and festival given by the Governor Gaspar Cagigal. There were two hundred persons at table, among whom I observed several very pretty women, well made, and dressed with an elegant simplicity. Many priests and friars were also at the festival : my old friend, the inquisitor, was the most conspicuous of them all, and made himself singularly agree- able. He was dressed in a beautiful habit of black silk, with embroidery and green ribbands, and a gold cross embroidered on his mantle. The other ecclesiastics were also in cassocks of black silk, and the father guardian of the recollets had a gown of puce-coloured taffeta, and flesh coloured silk stockings. This friar is a Creole of Caraccas, a very fine man, witty, learned, and benevolent, but a great dandy, like almost all the natives of Caraccas. The agriculture of the island scarcely suffices for the maintenance of its inhabitants. Maize, cassava, and bananas are their principal resources : the bananas are excellent, but very small, owing to the aridity of the soil, and dryness of the cli- mate. The inhabitants cultivate in small propor- tions, and for their own consumption only, all the productions of the Antilles, the sugar cane, coffee and cocoa trees, &c. ; they rear a great many goats and sheep, which, though lean, give delicious milk, owing to the aromatic herbs on 168 CLIMATE. which they feed. They have all kinds of fowl at a very trifling price, and have a little trade in them. Living is still cheaper at Margarita than at Cumana or Caraccas. I have bought a capon there for fivepence, a dozen of eggs for two- pence halfpenny, two bottles of milk for the same, a fish of ten or twelve pounds for the same, a turkey for one shilling, a lamb of two months, for fifteen pence, &c. The fishermen sell or ex- change their fish for cakes of maize, bananas, cassava bread, &c. I know of no inn, pro- perly speaking, in this island ; but a stranger is received in every house there when he offers to bear a part of the expenses. My coun- trymen would not conform, in regard to me, with this custom of the country: having re- fused to receive any remuneration for the kind and generous hospitality with which they received me. The climate of Margarita is very healthy, it is there that persons go, who have contracted obstructions and other diseases in the humid and unwholesome parts of the Island of Trinidad and the continent. This island has only three ri- vulets, which, however, are sufficiently large to turn mills, when such are established : their waters are limpid ; that of the little river which runs by the town of Assoncion, and which in some places passes over a bed of amphibolic schistus, contains sulphurated iron, magnesia, &c. The inhabitants prefer drinking water from FISIICKY. 169 ponds, though it is always turbid. The first time they presented this water to me at Pompatar, I refused it with disgust; but I was assured that it was more wholesome than rain water, and they laughed at the grimaces I made. The rich have filtering stones ; others drink as they draw it, and do not find any bad effects from it. This water contains a great quantity of calcareous marl. The fisheries produce the principal object of trade at Margarita : they are placed at the Islet of Coche, which belongs to government. Two merchants of Margarita had the privilege of this fishery in 1807, and they carried it on at Coche: the men who were employed in it, were Indians of Margarita. It was not freely, but by order of government that those natives worked in the fishery, at the scanty pay of a real (five pence) per day, and bread of maize or cassava. M. Depons is wrong in say- ing that they give them only maize bread for their entire food, I have been twice at the fishery of the brothers Maneyro, the most con- siderable of the two, and they ate as much fresh or salt fish as they chose ; more than three hundred Indians of both sexes and all ages, were employed there in 1807. The quantities of fish caught are incredible. Twice a day they draw a seine of two hundred feet long, and it seldom happens that at each drag they have not at least ten to twelve quintals of 170 SALT WORKS. fish. This net sometimes contains so many, that they are obliged to cut the meshes, in order to let some of the fish escape which they are unable to haul on shore. It would be too tedious to de- scribe the different kinds which are taken : the most common is the mullet of the Caribbean Is- lands, which the Spaniards call lissas : this fish has not been well described ; it resembles a herring. I have always been surprized that the contirou, and balahou, another non-descript fish, are never caught on this coast, nor on those of Trinidad and Tobago. It is not the centriscus scopolax, or the blower, as some writers have believed. The balahou has certainly the same snout, but its body is much longer. Those fish are com- mon at the Antilles and even at Grenada, which is only thirty leagues distance from Trinidad. They are sometimes caught, but very rarely, out- side the Dragon's mouths. On the coast of Trinidad, Tobago, and those of South America, are found many kinds of fish which do not exist at the Antilles. It is also re- markable that the Antilles are deficient in a great number of species of vegetables and animals that are found in Trinidad, Guiana, and the adjacent provinces. The observing naturalist is struck with this difference in countries so near each other, and of which the climate is almost the same. The salt works w T ould be lucrative objects for Margarita, if salt were not so very cheap in all POPULATION'. 171 those countries. A barrel of salt, not purified, weighing about three hundred pounds, is sold for about twelvepence halfpenny at Margarita. Poultry, wild fowl, goats or kids, sheep ham- mocks, and beautiful cotton stockings are arti- cles of exportation. This island is divided into two parts, which communicate with each other by an isthmus or natural causeway, that is scarcely more than from eighty to one hundred paces broad, and in some parts, from ten to twelve feet only above the level of the sea. The mountain of Macanou is the most elevated of this island : it is above two thousand feet high, according to M. de Humboldt, who measured it trigonometrically, and is composed of mica- ceous schistus. It is an important point for navigators to make, who go from Europe or from North or South America to Cumana, Bar- celona and La Guayra: as they are obliged to sail between Margarita and the Islet of Coche, to avoid running the risk of being carried to leeward by the currents. Margarita had, in 1807, a population of eight thousand whites, five thousand five hundred mix- ed blood, one thousand eight hundred Indians, and about nine hundred slaves, making a total of 10,200 persons. This island is sixteen marine leagues in its greatest length, six in its greatest breadth, in some parts only two or three leagues broad, and its surface is thirty-one square leagues. 172 C O T T O X P L A N T A T I O X . After remaining six weeks at Margarita, I was necessitated to freight a vessel, for which I paid one hundred and fifty dollars, to take us to Guadaloupe : it was a small decked bark of eight tons burden : contrary winds drove us to a desert island, called Blanquilla, situated at eighteen leagues north west of Margarita, where we anchored and remained three days. This island is nearly three leagues in length, and a league and a half broad ; though it is represented as much smaller on the maps. Its soil is a white tufa (de- composed pumice) sandy and sterile. It has, on the northern side, some rocks of little elevation, of gneiss or flaky granite. Its vegetation con- sists of cactus, mimosas, and thorny shrubs : there are no vegetables but such as grow on the sea coast and the most arid parts of the province of Cumana. Its surface is undulated, and towards the center is a platform elevated about two hun- dred feet above the sea. This island contains wild cattle, which are very savage ; probably because they are incessantly hunted. In order to kill them, the hunters gain a small eminence that commands a pond of water to which they resort to drink. There are also a great number of wild dogs : in the day-time they avoid a man ; they do not bark, but at night howl dismally. These animals feed on lizards and other reptiles. At the beginning of the French revolution, a planter of Guadaloupe went to settle in this island with a score of negroes, to form a cotton DKIWKTUKE. 173 plantation there ; but the Spanish government, who would not permit any one to fix himself there, drove him away. There are a great many parts of this little island very proper for cultivating cotton. Having sailed early on the morning of the third day after our arrival at this dreary spot, a vessel hove in sight and gave chace to us : in consequence of which we determined to return to Margarita, and it was with the greatest diffi- culty this object could be effected. Unwilling to run the risk of capture a second time, and by no means satisfied with the character of the master whose vessel I had hired, I formed the resolution of quitting her, and returning to Cu- mana, where I fortunately found a ship bound to Guadaloupe : we accordingly embarked and reached that island after a passage of four days. 171 MANNERS \M> CUSTOMS. CHAP. III. Manners and Customs. — Various Casts. — Conquistadores. — Creoles. — Idea of Nobility. — Refutation of De Paw's doctrines. — Mental Qualifications of the Creoles. — Reflections on Concubinage. — Parental Affection of the Creoles. — Account of the Guahiros. — Quadrupeds. — Traits of Manners. — Dress, &c. at Caraccas. — Singular Fashion at Cumana. — Anecdote of an Indian Female. — Remarks on several Animals. — Paca. — Pecary. — Catalogue of Birds. — Insects. — Trees and Shrubs. — Anecdotes of the Boa Strictor. — Remarks. — Vegetable World. — M. de la Barrere's Herbal. — Reflections. — Geological Attributes of Trinidad. — The Sugar Cane. — Introduction and Mode of cultivating the Otaheite Cane. — Fattening Qualities of the Cane. — Suggestions. — Proposed Improvements in Sugar Planta- tions. — The Cocoa Tree. — Nutritious Virtues of Cocoa. — The Tree described. — Epidendrum Vanilla. — Coffee. — Thoughts on its cul- tivation — Mode of planting Coffee. — And various Hints on the Sub- ject. — Podocarpus. — A Reflection. — Geological Observations. Four casts compose the population of this country, like those of the other Spanish colonies: the whites, Indians, negroes, and people of colour or mixed race. These casts are subdivided into whites born in Europe, vulgarly called Ga- chupines ; white Creoles, descendants of Euro- peans ; Mestizos, a mixture of whites and Indians; Zamboes, a mixture of Indian and negroes; and of mulattos, a mixture of whites and negroes. The Spaniards born in Europe consider them- CREOLES. 175 selves as a superior class to other whites: to have been born in Europe is a kind of nobility in the Spanish colonies. Not that the whites born in the new world have pretensions to illustrious birth. In the government of Caraccas, as in the other Spanish colonies, almost all the whites pretend to be descended from the ancient Conquistadores; but whatever importance they may attach to this origin, they are not the less considered by the other casts as inferior to the Europeans, for this plain reason, that the latter are appointed by the sovereign to nearly all the lucrative and impor- tant places. The Creoles of the French colonies were much better treated ; they not only enjoyed the pri- vileges of the Europeans, but it was sufficient to be born of a white family to enjoy all the pri- vileges of persons born of noble families. The colonial institutions founded by the ancient Spanish government, were only calcu- lated for disseminating and maintaining distrust and hatred among the different casts which di- vided, rather than composed, the population of those countries. To divide for the purpose of governing, was the moral resource employed by the ancient Spanish government for retaining its colonies in the yoke. Thus, you looked in vain for that frank, generous, hospitable, and heroic cha- racter in the Spanish Creole, which so eminently distinguishes the Creoles of the British and French colonies from other modern nations. 17G CREOLES. It is not that nature has refused to the Creoles of the Spanish colonies the gifts of the heed and heart : they have, in general, a great deal of wit and penetration, and foreigners acknowledge their integrity in commercial affairs ; but among them- selves there reigns a spirit of suspicion, jealousy and etiquette, which banishes cordiality from their societies. They scarcely speak of any thing but law suits, while the colonies swarm with barristers and attornies. These two professions are almost the only career left open to the ambition of the Creole youth, who show too great a propen- sity for the subtleties of legal chicanery. A great number become priests or monks : a white family in which there are three or four sons, would think itself dishonoured, if one of them did not embrace an ecclesiastical life. Formerly a great- many nuns were professed ; but from the irregularities which have occurred in convents, and the perver- sion of morals that has taken place in them, the monks, for some years past, have found great difficulty in recruiting them from young women of respectable families. The army has been opened for some years to the youth of the Spanish colonies. Charles III. established colonial regiments on the plan of those of France. Boldness and activity are the charac- teristics of the Spanish as well as the British and French Creole. The institution of colonial regi- ments and of militia in the Spanish colonies, wasre- ceived therefore with transport: an epaulette and a PREJUDICES. 177 pressible charm for all Creoles : the sight of those decorations make the heart palpitate in a young Creole of fourteen or fifteen years of age ; he scarcely breathes, and sighs only for the moment when he may put them on ! The Spanish government, in forming colonial regiments, did not imitate the unjust and absurd regulation of our ancient monarchs, by which no man of colour could arrive at the rank of an officer ; it had the good sense not to insult and stigmatize collectively a numerous class, degraded in the British and French colonies, by prejudices and laws as unreasonable as they are unjust and im- politic. In the Spanish colonies, for some years past, officers have been selected from among the people of colour. In no place, however, have the prejudices of birth and the word nobility, so much influence as in the Spanish colonies : three fourths of the white families call themselves noble. Almost all pre- tend to be descended from the ancient Conquis- tadores, or officers employed in the conquest of those regions. The province of Caraccas reckons among its inhabitants, six titled personages (Ti- tulos de Castilla,) three counts and three mar- quesses. The high notions which the Spanish Creoles have of the nobility of their extraction, does not pre- vent the family of a young Creole lady, rich and well educated, from thinking itself honoured in having an European Spaniard for a son-in-law, N 178 PRIVILEGES. although unknown, penny less, and frequently without education. This prejudice began to diminish some years past, and it changed into a commencement of aversion to Spain. Somos Americanos y no Gachupines ;* " we are Ameri- cans, and not.Spaniards," the Creoles of Venezuela and other Spanish possessions will frequently ex- claim in a tone of ill-humoured haughtiness. There is not a single instance of a white Creole of the provinces of Venezuela, having been guilty of assassination : I have been assured that this crime has never been committed there, excepting by Andalusians, or the Zamboes. The slaves in Venezuela, and the other Spanish possessions, enjoy a privilege unknown in the French and English colonies : it is that of oblig- ing their masters to liberate them, on their paying the sum of three hundred dollars. The slave treated with injustice or cruelty by his master, has a right to carry his complaint to the judge, who may order that he be sold to some other mas- ter of known humanity. No well informed man now believes in the ridiculous paradox of De Pauw, who asserts that all the American races are of a degenerated and inferior order ; it would result from his ex- travagant system, that man and animals are as * They have given to Europe the nickname of Gaehupina, and to Europeans that of Gachupines : they also call Europeans Cha- pctoues. roMiwiusoss. 179 much subjected to the influence of soil and climate, as the plants which vegetate there, and have no organs of loco-motion. The picture he gives of the physical and mental imbecility of the Ameri- can species, is only a false and coarse caricature.* In the temperate and cold climates of America, man has in no respect degenerated from his Euro- pean ancestor. In some parts of that continent, he is, perhaps, physically and morally superior. * A French writer, M. de Bercy, who has lately published his opinion on the comparative virtues of Europeans and Americans, observes, " Those whom we are accustomed to call barbarians and savages, are infinitely less entitled to these epithets than ourselves, notwithstanding the refinement and civilization we boast. Equally if not. more exempted from prejudice, the inhabitants of America neither create factitious wants, or seek imaginary sources of hap- piness ; they do not encourage either spies or informers : in that country, you are not shocked with the sight of magistrates, who ought to be the guardians of religion and morality, stimulating the vile and wicked to betray innocence, or hurry into crime. There, the oath of a perjured miscreant, is insufficient to consign a respectable character to the walls of a prison, much less ensure his ultimate condemnation. Their tranquillity is not disturbed by the incessant calls of the tax-gatherer, or their feelings mortified by the inequality of conditions. "More just than the Europeans, the people of America only arm to repel aggressions, and not to forge fetters for their fellow- men, to immolate by crusades and assassinations, like those of (he fifteenth century, and the day of Saint Bartholomew, or in just and necessary wars, such as those which have so often desolat- ed Europe, either for the aggrandizement of some families and their factious adherents, or with a view of suppressing liberal principles, and imprescriptible right."- Ed. N 2 180 MEN OF GENIUS. If ever the American can put all his faculties in motion, I do not hesitate to predict that he will surpass the European. He is, in fact, a new man, and a new character, like the great country in which he is born. Partial or ignorant writers have said that the American Islands have never produced a man distinguished in literature and the fine arts ; but Martinico, for instance, did it not give birth to the late M. du Buc ? Could he have been an ordinary person, I allude to Blanchetiere Bel- levue, who, never having left that colony before, nor received a literary education, at the age of thirty-six, appeared like a meteor in the con- stituent assembly, where he was admired for his captivating eloquence, and the variety of his knowledge? The celebrated physician Lamure was a Creole. France, Spain, and Great Britain, reckon among their celebrated existing characters a great number of Creoles ; and yet those countries aren a manner but newly born. Those who have had the means of observing the youth from these regions, who are sent to Europe for their education, have had the justice to declare, that they are eminently adapted for all the sciences and arts ; and that, in general, they surpass the common run of Europeans in the justness and clearness of their ideas ; which is the principal indication of good taste, and the characteristic of true genius. It is true, the greater part of them neglect to cultivate their MO HALS. 181 talents, when they return home : I well know that the heat of the climate inclines them to indo- lence ; but it must also be acknowledged that there is no institution in those colonies which sti- mulates men to improve their intellectual facul- ties. The wealthy live in pleasures and indolence, whilst those who wish to augment their fortunes, have their minds continually bent on that object. Add to these causes, the excessive tendency which is felt in this climate for sensual plea- sures ; the necessity of commanding" the negroes, beings who are usually stupid and stubborn, the management of a gang of whom absorbs the attention of the most active and intelligent man ; it may then be conceived why, in the present state of things, it is so difficult to be occupied with success, in cultivating the arts and sciences, which, of all other occupations, require so much time, tranquillity, retirement and independence. In Europe the Americans are constantly ac- cused of possessing bad morals ; but what is it that hypocrisy and prudery would have us under- stand by good and bad morals ? In my opinion good morals consist principally in a benevolent disposition, in the practice of that virtue, which, according to the expression of the divine author of the gospel, expiates a multitude of sins. To have good morals, or to be virtuous, which appear to me synonymous, is to perform our duties well, by contributing as much as lies in our power to render our fellow T creatures good and happy. A 182 CONX'UBINAGE. good father or mother, whose whole conduct tends to render their children happy ; a good son, husband or neighbour, those who relieve the ca- lamities of others by all their means, are, I think, virtuous beings, and entitled to the praise of pos- sessing good morals. But by good morals, a certain class of men understand exclusively the abstinence from sen- sual enjoyments ; or, at least, that they should be carefully concealed ; for according to those modern Pharisees, to sin in secret is not to sin at all ! Heaven forbid that I should declare myself an apologist for concubinage! And where is the iron- hearted man who can contemplate without agoniz- ing emotion, the hospitals in which deserted chil- dren swarm; those interesting and unfortunate victims, who should cry vengeance against the brutal insensibility of the parents who brought them into existence! But it must also be con- fessed, to the honour of the prudent Europeans, that their libertinism is conducted with great mystery : among them, the grand point is not to be virtuous, but to conceal their vices, and above all things that it should not injure their fortune. Concubinage, it is true, is common in the colo- nies ; but what is such a fault, when compared with adultery ? That indeed is the vice, which when not sufficiently stigmatized by public opinion, is most degrading to a people. Where- ever it is frequent, none of those fine family aiFec- ADULTERY. 183 lions can exist, which are the sources of happiness and the social virtues. The cohabitation of a colonist with his housekeeper, is a kind of left- handed marriage; and even when it happens that he dissolves that connection, he preserves a great regard for his children and makes their happiness one of his chief objects. Adultery* is very rare among them, and there- fore the Creole wives are the best of mothers. I have no hesitation in asserting with all impar- tial persons who have inhabited the colonies, that the colonists far surpass the inhabitants of the most primitive countries of the old world, in conjugal and paternal affection, and consequently in filial piety, generosity, beneficence, courage in adver- sity, sincerity, good nature and hospitality : all these virtues generally disseminated among them, * The original legislators who created the morals of nations, did not omit to class adultery among the most odious crimes : " thou shaltnot commit adultery," the divine legislator has expressly said in the decalogue. It is remarkable that he has not placed on the scale of prohibition the sexual sins among unmarried persons. In a less solemn injunction, incontinency is, it is true, prohibited among them as a fault ; but the God of Israel signalize* and stigmatizes adultery as an excessively odious crime. It was held in great horror by the ancient nations, especially the Romans, in the best times of the Republic. The elder Cato seeing young men going to visit courtezans, said to them, "^Courage, my friends: go and see the girls, but do not corrupt married women !" In Eng- land a man is at liberty either to sell his wife, if guilty of a faux pas, or he may sue for pecuniary damages in a court of justice; as if domestic happiness and personal honour were also legitimate objects of commercial speculation! !! 184 PATERNAL TENDERNESS. have in the free and cordial disposition of these peo- ple, an antique tint, which, since the latter years of the age of Louis XIV. and the shameful times of the Regency, have quite vanished from our manners. If the Creole women are the best of mothers, their husbands are generally good fathers. We do not see among them such egotistical and heart- less fathers and mothers, as are but too frequent- ly met with in Europe ; people who think they do enough for their children, in bequeathing them what they have not been able to dissipate in this world, and cannot carry with them to the other. Such monsters are unknown to the New World ; and therefore filial piety is there equal to paternal tenderness. The Creole father thinks, with reason, that he has a great duty to fulfil to his children; that his first care should be to place them in society, in a situation at least as fortunate as that in which he was placed by his own father : in a sphere as re- spectable as that in which he finds himself. There is nothing more admirable in social order, than the ardour with which a Creole father exercises his industry to increp.se his fortune. " I have a necessity to work, in order to augment my pro- perty ; I have a host of children, who did not ask me to bring them into the world :" an ex- pression trivial in appearance, but full of seiise and affection, and which is well placed in the mouth of an American father. In those coun- tries there are found even bachelor uncles who MATRIMONY. 185 are animated with the same kind affection for their nephews. Thus the Creole enjoys the pleasures of life, as soon as he becomes capable of it, whilst a great number of Europeans, to use a vulgar expression, obtain bread only when they lose their teeth ; thanks to the hard-hearted stupidity of their parents ! Creoles generally consult only their taste, and seldom think of fortune, in forming a matri- monial union : it is common among them for a wealthy man to marry a woman without for- tune ; it is still more so, to see a rich heiress choose for her husband a man who is pennyless ; and it is also very common to see a young couple marry without any other property than mutual love. They are young, and can make a fortune, say their worthy parents. In those countries w T here labour and industry are not disgraceful, and where every active and industrious person is sure to succeed, it often happens that such persons acquire independent fortunes. The Creoles think with reason, that in the choice of an union that ought to last for life, on which depends the hap- piness or misfortune of two individuals, and of those whom they may bring into the world, it is the affections of the parties which, above all, should be consulted. Thus it happens very seldom that parents are seen to oppose the inclinations of their children^ provided there be nothing dis- honourable in their choice. It is due to the Creoles, to say they arc particularly delicate on 186 UU A IJIUOS. this point, and the women quite as much as the men. Nothing, for instance, would induce a young Creole lady to marry a man deemed a liar or a coward. I shall terminate this sketch of the manners of the different tribes and casts which inhabit the Caraccas, by a few remarks on the Guahiros, of whom I have already spoken, and who inhabit the mountains of Merida, and the banks of the Riode la Hache. The Spanish writers of this age, as well as the English and French who have copied them, speak of them as of a horde of ferocious robbers, who have resisted all the efforts made for civilizing them. The Spanish geographers rank them among the Indios bravos, a name which they give to all the tribes they have not been able to subject. The Spanish historians of the sixteenth century, relate that the Guahiros were, at that period, the friends of the Spanish inhabitants of Trux- illo ; that the missionaries had converted almost all of them to Christianity; that they shewed more capacity and taste than the other Indians for the arts of civilization, in which they had made a rapid progress in a few years. But the liber- tinism of the inhabitants of Truxillo caused bloody quarrels between them and the Guahiros. The former did not desist from debauching their wives. One day a gang of Spaniards had the audacity even to go and carry them off by force from one of their villages. The nation or the tribe of Guahiros rose unanimously to revenge QUADRUPEDS. 18? this outrage : tho warriors entered Truxillo, sword in hand, and made great slaughter among the inhabitants. They declared solemnly that they renounced the religion of men so corrupt, for that nothing was sacred to them. All the efforts made by the Spanish missionaries, since that period, to reconcile them to their nation, have proved fruitless ; and they have remained implacable enemies to the Spanish name. Every time in which Spain and Great Britain have been at war, the British government has profited of this antipathy, to excite the Guahiros to commit hostilities against the colonists of the province of Maracaybo, which is the cause of its depopula- tion. The Guahiros, however, are more civiliz- ed than the other Indians, their neighbours ; they cultivate their land, weave stuffs of cotton and wool for their clothing : they also rear herds of cattle, which form objects of a very consider- able trade between them and the English in Jamaica ; they receive in payment spirituous liquors, fire-arms, and gun-powder. All their warriors are mounted. They are the true Caribs, possessing their tall stature, manly, haughty and independent character. Almost every species of European quadruped which has been transported into those countries have become wild, and multiplied excessively in the forests which abound in the necessary means for their subsistence. The horned cattle and the horse have not preserved the beauty of the Spa- 188 HORSES AND DOGS. rush oxen and the blood horse, no doubt from the little care that is taken of them ; but the ass has become larger and more handsome. The horses of Buenos Ayres and Chili, however, rival those of the finest breeds in Europe. The goat is smaller than the European, but its flesh is better, and it yields an abundance of delicious rnilk. The sheep when taken care of, equals the finest species in Spain. At Margarita I have seen sheep and wethers whose wool was excellent, as is also the meat of the latter. Swine are not so large as in Europe, but are more prolific ; and their fresh meat is more delicate and easy of di- gestion than that of the European hog. It seems certain that the dog did not exist here previous to the arrival of Europeans, and it is a remarkable circumstance, that those which in- habit the forests with the savages, who are exces- sively fond of them, have lost the faculty of bark- ing : they make a plaintive howling like wolves. I have had dogs of the breed of the shepherd's dog and of the mastiff, of which the sire and dam were littered in Europe, and yet they did not bark, but howled. It is true that I then lived almost en- tirely in the midst of forests. Yet the dogs in the towns and villages bark like the dogs in Europe. The shepherd's dog in this country becomes a very good sporting dog. In a country so vast as the Caraccas, one so re- cently civilized, and in which some parts present only the first rudiments of civilization, it must be LUXURIES. 189 expected that there exists a great difference be- tween the manners and customs of the inhabitants of towns and those of the country parts, and even those of the town of Caraccas, for instance, and of the inhabitants of the smaller towns and vil- lages. The luxury of European capitals is found in the town of Caraccas, and a refinement or exaggeration in their politeness, which partakes of the Spanish gravity, and the voluptuous man- ners of the Creoles. It may be said that their manners are a mixture of those of Paris, and the large towns in Italy ; the same taste for dress, sumptuous furniture, ceremonious visits, balls, shows, music, and even for painting, which is in its infancy. The inhabitants of Caraccas and the other towns, however, seldom dine with each other, and are very temperate ; but they fre- quently give collations, in which meat is never introduced, but chocolate, coffee, tea, cakes, sweet- meats and Spanish wines. It is on such occasions that they display their porcelain and fine glass. The women, both old and young, appear at them in all their finery ; and the men seem to rival the ladies in the brilliancy of their dresses and gallan- try. This is peculiar to the town of Caraccas. I remarked a very odd custom among the wo- men of Cumana; they wear neither veils nor gloves : thus, with the most agreeable and expres- sive shapes and countenances, they have a copper colour. While at Cumana, I offered several pairs of gloves for herself and daughters, to a lady, to 190 ANECDOTE. whom I was under some obligations. She accept ed them, but mentioned that neither she nor her daughters could wear them ; that it was not the custom in Cumana ; that any young lady seen with gloves and a veil, would be deemed a fantas- tical coquette, whom no one would marry, and that such fooleries were only fit for the belles and fops of Caraccas ! Whilst speaking of the Carae- cas fops, I should not omit to mention, that it is not unusual to see the portraits of their mistresses suspended from their necks by gold chains, in about the same manner as a Parisian or London beau wears a glass to assist his sight, injured no doubt by the study of novels and late hours ! I cannot conclude the subject of Indian man- ners without relating an anecdote, which will give an idea of their modesty. It is known that those of the warm climates of South America, among whom civilization has not made any pro- gress, have no other dress than a small apron, or kind of bandage, to hide their nakedness. A lady of my acquaintance had contracted a kind- ness for a young Paria Indian woman, who was extremely handsome. We had given her the name of Grace : she was sixteen years old, and had lately been married to a young Indian of twenty-five, who was our sportsman. This lady took a pleasure in teaching her to sew and em- broider : we said to her one day, " Grace, you are extremely pretty, speak French well, and are always with us : you ought not, therefore, to live CAVIA PACA. 191 like the other native women, and we shall give you some clothes. Does not your husband wear trowsers and a shirt ?" upon this she consented to be dressed. The lady lost no time in arranging her dress, a ceremony at which I had the honour of assisting. We put on a shift, petticoats, stock- ings, shoes, and a Madras handkerchief on her head. She looked quite enchanting, and saw her- self in the looking-glass with great complacency. Suddenly her husband returned from shooting with three or four Indians, when the whole party burst into a loud fit of laughter at her, and began to joke about her new habiliments; Grace was quite abash- ed, blushed, wept, and ran to hide herself in the bed-chamber of the lady, where she stript herself of the clothes, went out of the window, and returned naked into the room ! A proof that when her hus- band saw her dressed for the first time, she felt a sensation somewhat similar to that which an European woman might experience who was sur- prised without her usual drapery. There remains but little to say on the quadru- peds of this country, which have been almost all described by naturalists, especially the late M. Sonnini, and latterly by M. de Humboldt. BulFon, who had endeavoured to couple the fe- male cavia paca with the hare, was not well ac- quainted with its organization. The paca is called lapo in the Island of Trinidad and Spa- nish Guiana. I had remarked the singularity of the several parts of the male, and describ- 192 SONNINI. ed them in the Island of Trinidad, in 1797, not being aware that M. Sonnini had published observations on the same subject. He says, that the member of the paca is armed with two carti- laginous hooks, like that of the agoutt : I have seen four of them, and his observation is only true in regard to the latter. The paca is a very handsome animal, and easily domesticated : it is also very cleanly. It is rather larger than a hare, has a thick body, and is generally fat, the flesh of it is good food. From its birth to the age of four or six months, the hair, naturally of a deep red, is spotted with white, but after six months those spots disappear. I am surprised that Sonnini, who lived four years in Guiana, and who asserts he had often hunted there, did not remark that the paca is amphibious ; or, at least, that when pursued by the hunters he dives under water, where he remains several minutes without rising to the sur- face, which I have frequently witnessed ; its lungs also resemble those of the otter. M. Sonnini is wrong when he denies that there are several spe- cies of pacas, as the physician Laborde wrote to Bufifon : I have seen at Trinidad, and San Tome de Angostura, two of those animals perfectly re- sembling the paca, but much larger and more rugged : they were as large as pointer dogs, and had been caught, one in the Orinoco, and the other on the banks of the Guarapiche. Those animals have a strong inclination for frequenting QUADRUPEDS. 193 water, and do not live long in a domestic state : they feed on fish, and the plants which grow on the borders of the sea and rivers. Their hair is of a deeper red than that of the paca cavia of Linnaeus, which feeds only on grain and roots. In this country there are found six species of opossum, vulgarly called manicous, though that to which naturalists have given this name, does not exist in South but North America. The opossums of Venezuela are, first, the di- delphis opossum ; second, the crab opossum, or didelphis mursupialis ; third, the marmoset, di- delphis marina; fourth, the touan, didelphis brachiura; fifth, the cayopollin, didelphis dor- sigera, or philander of Surinam, didelphis coy- ollia ; sixth, the yapoch, or little otter of Guiana, of Buffon. The females of all these opossums, excepting that of the didelphis murina, or marmoset, have under the belly a membraneous pouch, where they deposit their young as soon as they are littered ; but I am very much surprised at not finding in Buffon and his editors, as well as other writers, any mention of an extraordinary circumstance in the organization of the opossum ; which is, that they have the member turned towards the tail. Trinidad and the provinces of Venezuela have the Agouti, known to all persons who have been at the Antilles. Two species of small deer, the Cervus Americanus, and the mangrove stag, which lives in marshy places. They are as common in Trinidad as on the continent, but they do not exist in the lslaud of Tobago. 194 QUADRUPEDS. A species of Porcupine, called Couandou by the Mar- sitah Indians ; this is the Hystrix prehensilis of Linnams. Two species of lizards, known in the country by the names of Dragon and Guana. Armadillos, remarkable for their lamellated shell, Genus Dasypus. Two species of Ant-bears. The water-dog, or dog of the woods : A Didelphis ; The Didelphis Philander is common at Trinidad. The Tiger-cat, or Jaguar of New Spain : Ledru says that he never attacks man ; he is wrong, and confounds the Tiger-cat with the Jaguar. The same writer is also mistaken when he says that there are numerous herds of wild swine in the forests of Trinidad : the European hog has not become wild at Trinidad as in the Antilles, perhaps be- cause it has encountered the Pecary in the woods, vulgarly called the wild American hog. These wage a cruel war against the former. The Pecary must certainly be a differ- ent species from swine, as they do not breed with them. From various experiments I have seen made, I can assert this fact without fear of contradiction. Externally the Pecary resembles the swine, but there exist differences in their organization as observed by many naturalists. The external difference, most characteristic of the Pe- cary, is a gland on the dorsal spine, between the flesh and the skin: it is nearly an inch in diameter; above this gland there is in the skin a little hole of about two or three lines diameter, from which exudes a yellowish matter which has the smell of musk. Though this animal defends itself with a great deal of courage when attacked by the hunters, it is easily tamed ; it caresses a man, and follows him like a dog : it is very cleanly, and prefers elevated situations. The Mapurito ; when disturbed it emits an insupportable stench. QUADRUPEDS. 195 The Musk Rat, or Piloris of the Antilles ; Mus Pilo- rides, Gm. The SwallowerorCrab Rat; Ursus cancrivorus. Cuvier. The lazy Sloth ; Bradypus Didactylus. Amphibious Mammi/eres. The Lamantin or Sea-cow ; Trichecus manaius Austra- lia. Gm. ; the Saricorian Otter, and the Brazilian Tor- toise. M. de Humboldt has lately published the natural his- tory of the monkies of this country, in his Observations on Zoology and Comparative Anatomy. Birds of the Sea Coast. The brown Pelican ; Pelicanus fuscus. Gm. The lesser American Vulture, or the scald-necked Vul- ture ; it feeds on carrion, flies in flocks, which are gene- rally led by the King Vulture, Vultur Papa ; the little American Vulture has been improperly classed among sea fowls : it is true that they are sometimes found on the shore, in search of carrion; but far greater numbers of them are seeu in the interior, and always in flocks. The King of the Vultures, Vultur Papa, is always at the head of flocks of birds commonly called Ravens, which pretended raven is the naked breasted vulture, the Uruba (Vultur aura) of South America. This bird feeds on carrion. It is remarkable that when the Vultur Papa arrives at the head of his troop, near a carrion, all the vultures make a circle round the banquet, except two or three that place themselves as sentries on trees and trunks of trees. When the king has satisfied his hunger, he flies away, uttering a cry, and goes to place himself as a sentinel. Then all the troop, not excepting the sen- o 2 196 QUADRUPEDS, tries, fall on the carrion, which they devour with great voracity ; after which they repose and sleep, until their chief gives them the signal for departure. There is in the more elevated situations of the province of Caraccas a bird which partakes of the eagle and the vulture, but it is larger than either. I believe this bird has never been described by any naturalist. Us legs and wings are very long : it is handsome, but extremely rare. It has, as well as I can recollect, a tuft of red fea- thers on the head, and a stately gait, though somewhat heavy. Its plumage is red, bluish, green and yellow. I never saw more than two of them at Trinidad, one living, the other stuffed, they were brought from the mountains of Cumana. When I was in that province, in 1807, 1 offered in vain two hundred dollars to procure one of them alive, and four hundred dollars if a male and female were brought to me. The French Creoles settled in the country, have given it the name of King of the Vultures, to distin- guish it from the bird they call King of the Ravens, and which naturalists term King of the Vulture, or Vultur Papa. The first bird that attracted my attention at arriving on the shores of the Gulf of Paria, was the Pelican, the Pele- canus Fuscus of naturalists. It often rests its extended wings on the branches or trunks of trees which float on the coast, and when it is seen in that situation at a distance of half a league, and even sometimes at a league, an illusion in optics causes it to be mistaken for a boat under sail. I have at other times thought it was a sentry on the shore, when distant about a quarter of a league. Those birds feed on fish ; they pass a part of their time in flocks on rocks in the vicinity of the sea, and the re- mainder in the water. When they see fish they fly at an elevation of about twenty-five or thirty feet, the fish then approach the surface to feed on their excre- THE VAMPIRE. 197 merits, when those voracious birds pounce on them like fal- cons on their prey. It is a wonderful thing to observe with what dexterity this bird, apparently so unwieldy, swallows a great number of fish; he fills a large bag, which forms a part of his throat, from whence he swallows them when hungry. The Lancet Bat or Vampire, genus Philostome, has been very well described by M. de St. Hilaire, member of the French Institute, and professorof zoology. ButTon, wishing to explain how the Vampires suck blood, without causing to persons asleep that degree of pain which could awaken them, suspects that it is with the tongue, and not the teeth, that they make the incision ; and he is right. I think Azzara, otherwise so exact, is incorrect, when he says, they wound in biting, and not in pricking. I have been pierced more than once by these animals whilst sleeping, without feeling the least pain, and their pricking perfectly resembled that of a lancet, which has given rise to their name in Trinidad. I cannot do better than copy the description of this organ given by the learned zoologist St. Hilaire. " Its tongue, whose breadth is to i(s length as one is to six, is partly flat above and rounded below. In comparison by its length and narrowness, with the tongue of the ant-bear, it also resembles the latter in the faculty the phyllostomos have of thrusting it out entirely : its sur- face is slightly and regularly shagrined. There is seen quite near its extremity an organ of suction : it is a cavity of which the center is filled with a raised point, whose bor- ders are formed by eight protuberances of a less elevation than that of the center."* The frigate : Pelecanus aquilus. Gm. The common booby; Pelecanus sula. Gm. The diver, or castagneuse : Colymbus dominions. Gm. * It is not improbable that this singular organ may have sug- gested the ingenious instrument used for cupping. — Ed. 198 BIRDS, The teal: Anas dominica. Gm. The great water-hen of Cayenne : Fulica Cayennen- sis. Gm. The egret : Ardea gazetta. Gm. The gold plover : Charadrius Pluvialis. Gm. The flamingo : Phcenicopterus. A species of caprimulgus which lives in the caverns of rocks washed by the sea. Land Birds. The little red ara : Psittacus uracanga. Gm. The great ara. (Macaw.) The green and red parrot of Cayenne: Psittacus ochro- cephalus. Gm. The courow parrot : Psittacus cestivus. Gm. The collared parrot : Psittacus Alexander. Daud. The red banded parrot: Psittacus Dominicensis, Daud. The black headed maipouri parroquet : Psittacus me- lanocephalus. Gm. The tufted green pecker. The variegated or Jamaica pecker : Picus Carolinus, Lath. The red-breasted couroocon : Trogon curucui. Gm. The humming bird of Tobago: Trochilus Tabaci, Gm. The green and gold humming bird : Trochilus viridis- simus. Gm. The brown and yellow blackbird : Turdus aurantius' Gm. The toucan, with yellow breast and black beak; another toucan with yellow breast and beak. The screech owl: Strix fiammea. Buffon. The white collared swallow : Hirundo Cayennensis- Buffon. '^'tffcftfc BIRDS AND INSECTS. 199 Three species of wild pigeons, called also in the country Paouy. These birds live in pairs, in a state of marriage like the turtle doves : they only lay two eggs for each hatching. They also fly in flocks, and are easily tamed. The katraca and the parraka are very common in those forests. The first is also as plentiful in the island of Tobago as on the continent, but there are none of them in Trinidad ; though frequently taken there they have never bred. The ring dove. Three varieties of turtle doves. The white woodcock. Three varieties of wild ducks. The following insects were collected by the naturalists of the expedition commanded by Captain Baudin. The bull cassida: Cassida taurus. Fab. A variety of the rustic may-bug : Melolontha rustica. Fab. An insect which seems to be the Longimanus of Fabri- cius ; reddish brown, humpy body, coppery and spiny, wings striped with six yellow transverse bands, thighs armed with one hook; cylindrical head, excepting at the base, where the eyes are placed. The spotted fisher : Horia maculata. Fab. The hemorrhoidal bee : Apis hemorrhoidalis. Fab. The cordiform bee : Apis cordata. L. The dentated bee: Apis dentata. L. The variegated bug : Lygceus varicolor. Fab. The tuberculated ant : Formica tuberculata. Encyc. 41. The American wasp : Vespa Americana. Fab. The phosphoric fire-fly: Fulgora phosphorea. L. Turtles are rather abundant on the northern coast ; they come on shore from April to September. In the forests, which have such an imposing aspect, there are found the greater part of the trees that embellish 200 PLANTS. those of the Antilles, the borders of the Orinoeo, and Term Firma. Botanists also specify in the island of Trinidad, The Aspen rush : Cyperus haspan. Rottb. The hexandric commeline: Commelina hexandra. Aubl. The yellow leaf ginseng : Panax chrysophylla. Vitex capitata. Yahl. Juslicia secunda. Vahl. Solanum hirtum. Vahl. Cestfum latifolium. Vahl. Allamanda cathartic a. L. Macrocneum coccineum. Vahl. Frcelichia paniculata. Willd. Spathodea corymbosa. Vent. Bobinia rubiginosa. Poiret. Lupinus villosus. Willd. Glycine picta. Wiild. Begonia humilis. Dry. Taberncemontana ondulata. Vahl. Tapogomea tomentosa. Aubl. Croton gossypifolium. Vahl. Tragia corniculata. Vahl. Tontalea scandens. Aubl. All the trees mentioned in the description of Tobago, are to be found in Trinidad. The above list contains the result of my obser- vations on those departments of the natural his- tory of Venezuela, and the Island of Trinidad. There are in the last named island many kinds of serpents, some of which are exceedingly large, but not dangerous to man : two species of vipers, but so scarce and timid, that I never heard of any accident from them: it is, however, said that BOA NTllICTOR. 201 the serpent called mapipi, is dangerous ; but it must be very rare ; for I who have been much in the woods, never saw it. There are three species of Boa : I saw one of fifteen to nineteen feet in length, and some have been seen on the continent of forty-five feet long. That which is most remarkable in this gigantic reptile, is the manner in which it devours the fowls and quadrupeds that fall, as it may be said, into his sphere of enchantment. When a hen, pintada, paca, or fawn passes near the Boa, the bird or animal is immediately seized with convulsions ; it ruffles its feathers or bristles its hair, and stands still, without attempting to fly, until this slow and enormous reptile seizes it by the head. The serpent then emits a whitish and viscous slime on the body of its victim, and swallows it slow- ly at its leisure. If the prey be somewhat large, the monster doubles itself up, contracts its length, and becomes the thicker as it is full. It is then obliged to repose to digest the food, or rather because it is too full to be able to move or crawl. When in this state, a child who was not frightened at its hideous appearance, might kill it with a stick, or cut it in pieces with a sword, as I have seen done by the young Indians and ne- groes, who would on such occasions appear delighted at vanquishing the monster. It should be mentioned here, that Dominica is the only island of the Antilles (not including 202 NOXIOUS ANIMALS'. Trinidad and Tobago) in which the Boa is found, but they are not so large as those of Trinidad and continent : it is aiso worthy of remark, that the quadrupeds, reptiles , and even the birds of the Island of Trinidad, are smaller than those which belong to the same species on the neighbouring continent. Innumerable multitudes of toads spread over the country at night, which break its stillness with their croaking. Myriads of fire-flies appear soon after night-fall, and glitter in every direction. Those who write the natural history of this island ought not to forget the industry of the parasol ant, or omit describing the bold habits of its magnifi- cent birds, and their nests suspended from the branches of trees ; which probably gave to the American savage the idea of hammocks ; a wide field will also be opened for describing the ele- gant and endless variety of its butterflies. All those insects and reptiles, some disgusting, others brilliant, concur, each according to its organization, in the great designs of nature. All aid in purifying the atmosphere by absorbing the hydrogen and azotic gas, of which the super- abundance would inj ure the health of the nobler species. The whole coast of Venezuela shines with the white, blue, scarlet, purple and orange enamels of the most brilliant shells. They are the same species I have observed in the islands of Tobago and Trinidad. VLGl'.TATION. 203 Vegetable World. The kind of varied life which my destiny oblig- ed me to lead in the colonies, the civil wars and frequent sea voyages, required by the nature of my business, added to my decided taste for travelling, long and painful sickness, caused more by moral affections and bodily fatigue, than by the climate ; the want of books and communi- cations with learned men, in a country where they are very scarce, and where there are no occupations but the accumulation of wealth, and the enjoyment of physical pleasures : all these causes united, have prevented me from devoting myself to the study of botany, as much as my in- clination would lead me. I led, however, rather a sedentary life during the four last years of my residence in the Island of Trinidad, in which I was principally occupied with agriculture. From the commencement of the revolution, I have been connected with two botanists of the first eminence : M. de la Barrere, a distinguished officer of engi- neers, who had gone to settle in Trinidad, whilst it belonged to Spain, and who still resides there ; and the worthy and learned Mr. Alexander An- derson, founder of the magnificent botanical gar- den in the Island of Saint Vincent, the richest garden of America and Asia ; where he has assem- bled all the plants of the equinoxial regions, and even those of the regions vulgarly termed tem- perate ; such as tea, &c. With these estimable men I made many excursions in the forests 204 M. DC BAKUEKE. of Trinidad, occupying myself with opening com- munications and paths, studying the rocks and physical geography of the country, whilst they botanized. M. de la Barrere, in 1793, and after a year's residence in Trinidad, had discovered two hun- dred and forty plants that do not exist in the Antilles, which he visited, and of which he has formed three new species, according to the Genera Plantarum of our celebrated De Jussieu. It is a great loss to botany that other occupations have withheld him from that science, which he would have enriched with numerous discoveries, if he had been able to attend to it alone. M. de la Barrere has, however, formed a magnificent her- bal of the Antilles and the Island of Trinidad, in duplicate. Why does he not send it to Europe? M. de Jussieu, and other learned men, who have not forgotten him, and who preserve their old attach- ment for him, request, through me, that he will send his duplicates to the learned and generous Mecsenas of natural history, Sir Joseph Banks ; it will be as usefully placed for the sciences with him, as if it were in the Museum of the Garden of Plants at Paris. The study of the sciences, and the learned societies, have this noble advan- tage over other human institutions, that instead of the misfortunes of war diminishing the atten- tion and respect which the truly learned of dif- ferent nations entertain for each other, they even inspire those sentiments with more energy and VEGETATION. 205 vivacity, by the mutual desire and necessity for communicating their ideas, projects and disco- veries to each other, in order to accelerate the progress of scientific researches. The Island of Trinidad presents, in some de- gree, to the geologist and botanist an abridg- ment of Guiana, and the countries comprised in the various provinces of Venezuela ; such as those situated on one side between a part of the Cordilleras, of the Andes, and other ranges of mountains which proceed from them, and on the sea coast, between the mouth of the river Amazons and that of the Madalena. Plu- mier, Jaquin, Margraf, Aublet, Sonnini, and other naturalists have given descriptions of the animals and vegetables of this region ; and the most learn- ed of modern travellers, Baron de Humboldt, in the relation of his travels, where all is novel, where he has gone through the whole circle of the sciences, from astronomy down to zoophites, has, during almost five years in which he travel- led over different countries of America, extracted more of the secrets of nature, and made more discoveries, I believe, than all the men of sci- ence who had visited those regions before him. It is principally to these works I refer those who are desirous of becoming more minutely acquainted with the natural history of the temperate and equatorial climates of America, and particularly of the vegetable world. They will see, that whilst this extraordinary man cal- 20G VEGETATION. culated the movements of the heavenly bodies, observed the physical structure of the globe, noted meteorological observations, dissected birds, quadrupeds, reptiles, fish, studying the remains of Mexican and Peruvian antiquities, languages unknown to the ancient world, the history and manners of the indigenous natives, and made a statistical work on those countries, which alone would suffice for acquiring the highest re- putation, they will see, that those prodigious labours which he has executed in such a short space of time, and as if he had merely flown over the surface of the New World, yet left suffi- cient time to this Leibnitz of his day, to discover and describe about two thousand two hundred new plants !* And it is a most honourable circumstance for the French language, that this illustrious fo- reigner has adopted it in publishing his works. My affairs in the colonies not having permitted me to attend to vegetables, excepting in their connexions with agriculture, arts and commerce, I shall limit myself to speaking of those of which the cultivation is an object of industry with the inhabitants of Trinidad, and the otherp rovinces of Venezuela. It is natural, in the first place, to speak of the sugar cane, which is the principal source of colonial wealth. The aboriginal inhabitants did not cultivate it * He formed a herbal, during his travels, of six thousand plants. SUGAR CANE. 207 when Columbus discovered the New World. It even seems to be proved that it did not exist there at that period. The Mexicans had no knowledge of sugar ; but they made a syrup from the juice of the agave, a species of pine- apple, also from that of the maize stalk, and of the honey of bees. Yet the culture of the sugar cane has been practised from the most remote antiquity in the East Indies and China. From Africa, it passed into Spain, and from the Ca- nary Islands to San Domingo, from whence it was transplanted to the other colonies. Accord- ing to Oviedo Valdes, the first sugar plantation was established at San Domingo in 1520, and in 1535, there were already thirty of them there. The Canary sugar cane was still exclusively culti- vated in the colonies in 1791, under the name of the Creole cane. It was to the discovery of the Islands of Otaheite, in 1759, by the celebrated Bougainville, that we owe the cane now culti- vated in the colonies, and to which has been given the name of Otaheite cane. This navi- gator transported it to the Isle of France, in re- turning from his voyage round the world : it was cultivated in the botanical garden of that island, from whence it was brought, in 1788, to that of Cayenne, by Mr. Martin, a French bo- tanist, who also sent some of it to Martinico, where it was kept as an object of curiosity in the public garden, at the town of St. Pierre, and in that of a French officer, M. Passerat de la Cha- 208 SUGAR CANE. pelle. These are facts which have come to my par- ticular knowledge, because I arrived at Martinico at the end of the year 1791. The following is a note supplied to me by a person whose testi- mony is unexceptionable.* " With respect to the Otaheite canes," (says M. du Buc,) " In 1790, there was a tuft or two of them in the Government Gardens at St. Pierre : I believe the plant had come from the botanical garden of Cayenne. A M. de la Cha- pelle, planter, of Fort Royal, was the first who cultivated it in his grounds, and he praised it excessively ; but as his experiments were on a very small scale, and he was known to be in the habit of exaggerating, his assertions were not much credited. However, in the month of June, 1790, when M. de Damas, then at the head of the colonists, went to pacify the town of St. Pierre, after the massacre of the men of colour which took place on the day of Corpus Christi, many of the planters took specimens of this plant from the government garden, and planted it in their own grounds. In the years 1791 and 1792, it increased exceedingly. In 1793, the disturb- ances and emigration of the planters suspended its progress, but in 1794, it became the more rapid, as each having to plant his plantation anew * M. L. A. Du Buc, deputy from Martinico to the Emperor Napoleon, and son of the celebrated M. Du Due, formerly intendant of the colonies. VJTAHE1TE CANES. 209 made use of these canes, the superiority of which was confirmed, and they procured it from those who had already a few beds of it. From this moment it was an object of trade : a mule's load of it being sold for two and three dollars. The propagation was so rapid, that in 1798, it might be said, there were none of the old canes remain- ing 1 in the island. " I need not inform you how we manage to accelerate the increase of the Otaheitecanejs : with a few load*, I plauted (he tenth of a square bed ; this was cut in four or five months, and each cut- ting gave as much cane as would plant five or six beds. This second nursery at the end of four or five months more, multiplied six fold in cutting, without prejudice to the first, which still produced: thus you will perceive that three or four squares would be soon planted, and continue so to an indefinite extent.'" For two years past there have been no other canes cultivated in the colonies than those I have described, because they are longer, thicker, and give more juice than the Creole cane. They have a great advantage over the latter, which is, that they may be cut in ten months after they have been planted. The planters in easy circumstances, however, cut them only every fourteen months, and they then give a third more produce than the Creole cane of the same age. Various persons, and Depons among others, have slated that the above cane degenerates in 210 OTAHEITE CANES. America ; that tho sugar extracted from it is not of such a good quality as that of the Creole cane; that it liquefies partially on the voyage, &c. These are errors now acknowledged by all the colonists. There are in the colonies, as every where else, a set of plodding men, who oppose useful disco- veries with all the weight of their prejudices, vanity and ignorance : these men refused to culti- vate the Otaheite canes for four or five years ; but at present, when they see them yield a third more sugar than the Creole cane, their interest has forced them into its cultivation. It has also the advantage of the refuse giving more fuel, of giving very considerable produce during ten years, in grounds of ordinary fertility, and for fifteen or sixteen years in a fertile soil ; whilst it is necessary to replant the Creole cane every two years in middling ground, and every four or five years in the best land : this is an inestimable ad- vantage in a country where labour is so dear. But what renders this vegetable still more precious, is the flexibility of its organization ; or in other words, the property it has of accommo- dating itself to various temperatures, much more than the Creole cane. It is known thr*t the latter scarcely gives any sugar, and that it is necessary to replant it every year, if it be required to de- rive any produce from it in countries where Reau- mur's thermometer descends, for some months only, below 15°. It is not so with the Otaheite cane. In Louisiana the cultivation of the sugar-cane PRODUCTION OF SUGAR. 211 had been almost abandoned, previous to the French revolution, because the Creole cane gave scarcely any sugar. The emigrants from San Domingo introduced that of the South Sea island, and although it does not produce as much there as in the Antilles, still its cultivation is much more profitable than that of the Creole cane. Now the climate of Louisiana is not much warmer than that of Provence, Lower Languedoc, and a part of Spain ; it is not so hot as in the kingdom of Naples : it is certainly more humid, and the sugar cane requires moisture ; but is it not possible, in the south of Europe, to supply the want of at- mospheric humidity by irrigations? These are, I may venture to say, reflections worthy of the attention of government. It has been proved that the sugar cane of Otaheite may be advan- tageously cultivated in the southern countries of Europe which I have mentioned, in every part where the grounds may be watered in dry seasons. I ought not to omit mentioning, that the sugar of Louisiana is not inferior to that of the Antilles : there is no other used in the United States, where it does not cost, when refined, more than seven- pence halfpenny per pound. In Lower Louisiana it is reckoned that an acre of land gives in an average one thousand pounds of sugar yearly, two hundred and fifty pounds of cotton, two hundred pounds of tobacco, thirty bushels of maize, or twenty bushels of wheat. It is not surprising that such an enormous difference p 2 212 M. l)E ( OSSIONV in the value of the crops has made the planters in Louisiana prefer the cultivation of sugar to all other produce, in that part of their province which is fit for it. It is the same in Mexico and various parts of Venezuela, where previous to the French Revolution this culture was unknown. It is to the ruin of San Domingo, and the misfor- tunes of our other colonies that it has been intro- duced there, and even that of coffee, which before the above event had been grown only for domes- tic use and in very few places. Thus, in a few years, and when peace is re-established, sugar, the most agreeable and the most wholsome* of vege- table productions, will also become one of those which may be procured on cheaper terms. Mr. de Cossigny, a landed proprietor in the Isle of France, presented in 1799, to the Agricul- tural Society of Paris, a memorial, and has since presented others, on the means to be employed for naturalizing in the south of France, the sugar * Those wliohave boon in the colonies know that the negroes belonging to sugar plantations, grow fat during the time of mak- ing the sugar, although they then work harder and sleep loss than in any other time of the year. It is because they eat a great deal of sugar, and drink plenty of syrup ; they are scon to dip (heir salt fob, meat, and all their food in the hot syrup. The mules and other animals employed on those sugar plantations also fatten in the sugar harvest, for the skimmings of the sugar pans are given to them ; and yet they arc made to work hard at that time ; whereas during the remainder of the year they are allowed to ■'raze at liberty in the savannas. COMPARISONS. 213 cane, indigo, and cotton. If the results have not corresponded with the expectations of this learned colonist, so zealous for the interests of his country, it is, I believe, because he was not furnished with the means of making his experiments on a scale sufficiently extensive. Besides, at that period the Otaheite cane was scarcely known in France. I believe it is even still unknown in Europe, that it yields a third more of sugar than the Creole cane, and that it produces abundantly in places and climates where the Creole cane scarcely yields any thing. Chance having enabled me to discover in 1803, at Trinidad, an Otaheite cane on a mountain elevated nearly eighteen hun- dred feet above the level of the sea, I cut it in pieces and took it home : it was rather more than twelve feet long and two inches in diameter ; that is to say, it was as well grown as those that are produced in the warmest parts of the island ; although it had sprung up, I know not how, in the middle of mountain weeds. I pressed the juice from it, and it gave me nine ounces of very good raw sugar. I felt convinced, on that occasion, the Creole canes would scarcely grow in this place, or that they would be very stunt- ed, and contain either very little, or very bad sugar; for it is well known in the colonies that this plant does not thrive in cool situations, ele- vated more than sixteen hundred feet above the sea, where the thermometer seldom rises above 17°, and is generally at 14° or 15" of Reamur. 214 NATURALIZING PRODUCTIONS. Some days afterwards I returned to the same mountain, and planted eight Creole and as many South Sea canes ; thirteen months afterwards I went to cut them ; three of the Creole canes had but seven joints, the others only four or five ; they had scarcely eight or nine lines of diameter in their thickest joints. I had their juice boiled, and by dint of ashes and lime, I extracted four ounces of raw sugar from them, of the most inferior quality. The Otaheite canes yielded as much and as good sugar as those which grew in tho warmest districts of the island. I kept my experi- ment secret, as well as some others which I made on tropical productions, as it was my intention not to make them public until my return to France. I then concluded that the South Sea cane is endowed like the Creoles with great flexibility, and that it may be advantageously cultivated in climates less hot than those situated between the tropics. It was then also that I conceived the idea of communicating to various persons in the United States and France, the scheme of naturalizing in the southern countries of Europe the pro- ductions of the tropics, by transporting them, at first to the Azores, or the Canary Islands, where the climate is in the mean between that of the torrid zone and the south of France, Italy and a part of Spain. I was desirous that they should be cultivated in those intermediate regions with care during three or four years, and that from thence %%& ■/®wk&mtt$ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H COUNT 1)E BOUGAINVILLE. 215 they might be transplanted into Provence. I am convinced that by this means the Otaheite cane may be naturalized with us, and also other pro- ductions of the equinoctial regions ; which for our agriculture and commerce would be an advantage on which it is useless for me to dilate, while it must greatly diminish the profits of our rivals. One day when the late Count de Bougainville was walking about the Garden of Plants at Paris, in 1807, he saw the Otaheite canes in the hot-houses : "these are some of my breed," said he to M. Thouin, the professor ; " pray give me one to plant in my garden." The cane was accordingly sent, but his gardener forgot to place it in a hot-house during the winter, nor did the Count even tell him what plant it was. The gardener supposed it to be some curious reed, and merely stuck it in a heap of manure by the side of a wall. The Count walk- ing in his garden in the beginning of the summer of 1808, recognized his Otaheite cane very healthy and large. Convinced by this experiment that it can endure the winter, even in the climate of Paris, he had several joints of it cut and planted, all of which produced very fine tufts of canes. I shall not enter on the details of the cultivation of this important plant, or on the process of ex- tracting the sugar : a great many treatises have been written on the subject. The best is, un- doubtedly, that of M. Duthrone, a physician and planter of St. Domingo : he was, I believe, the first who had sugar pans made of copper, broader 216 IMPROVEMENTS SUGGESTED. and shallower than the iron caldrons which are chiefly used in the sugar plantations: by their width and shallowness, they save both fuel and time, because the syrup boils and changes sooner into sugar in those boilers than in the former ones which are much deeper. In them the syrup is stirred and skimmed more easily, which diminishes the labour of the refiner. It is also remarked that the sugar made in those pans has a lighter and more agreeable colour, than that which has been boiled in iron. When an iron caldron breaks, or becomes perforated, it is necessary to destroy the masonry of the furnace to replace it with another, which wastes much time, and some- times spoils several quintals of syrup ; but when a copper caldron meets this accident, there is no further trouble than in soldering a patch on it, which can be done in half an hour. These and many other reasons might be cited to induce the Spanish cultivators to abandon the use of iron caldrons as the English planters have both at Jamaica and in almost all their other colonies. There might be many other improvements made in the cultivation and boiling of sugar. The cogs of the mill wheels, for instance, which are now used frequently break, and it is necessary to unhang them, in order to put new ones in ; causing a con- siderable loss of time and money. In 1803, I pro- posed to Mr. Robley, of Tobago, to substitute iron ones welded into a rim of the same metal ; if the cog should be broken, it would be sufficient to m&r&sv cocoa tkel:. 217 take oil' the rim, and introduce a new one ; which might be the work of half an hour, or of an hour at the utmost. When I left my plantation in Trinidad, I intended to have made rims with cogs on this plan. The tree which produces cocoa, (theobroma cacao J, is the principal object of cultivation in those of the Spanish colonies which are situated in hot climates, and particularly in the provinces of Venezuela, where it is of a superior quality. " The extreme fertility of the soil," says M. de Hum- boldt, " and the insalubrity of the air, are in Southern America and Asia, two inseparable cir- cumstances. It is observed that the more the agriculture of a country increases, the more the forests diminish ; and that the more the soil and climate become dry, the less the plantations of cocoa succeed." The observation of M. de Hum- boldt is strictly true : still it must be said, that there are districts in the provinces of Venezuela, and the island of Trinidad, which though not unhealthy, produce very good crops of cocoa. The vallies of Arragoa in the province of Caraccas, those of Cariaco, Carupano, of Rio Caribe, and the banks of the river Caroni in Spanish Guiana, produce excellent cocoa in abundance : and those countries are not unwholesome, for their inhabi- tants enjoy good health, and are subject to fewer diseases than aged persons in Europe, or the in- habitants of Barbadoes, Antigua, Sainte Croix, 218 S1NGULAU DISEASE. and some of the Caribbean islands which have no rivers, and are subject to much drought. In the continental regions I am describing, and which are watered by many streams, a great number of navigable rivers, arid a multitude of rivulets which w T ould be termed rivers in France, the atmosphere is continually refreshed by the evaporation of those running waters, which at the same time that they invigorate and fertilize vegetation, preserve the inhabitants from certain disorders, to which those residing in countries where the climate is too hot and dry for the European race are subject. The inhabitants of Barbadoes, Tobago, and other islands, where, in some years there is scarcely any rain, are subject to a disease in the alimentary canal, which finishes by paralizing that organ. The patient loses the faculty of digestion ; and sees himself consuming away without a remedy. This disease is incurable when it has made some progress, and the only mode of curing it at its commencement, is to send the patient to a cold climate. The English physicians attribute this malady to the extreme dryness and heat of the climate. Perhaps they might also add to the spices, brandied wines, the rum and other spiritu- ous liquors, which their countrymen often use to such an inordinate excess. The unhealthy parts of the new world are, as every where else, marshy places, and where water has not a sufficiently rapid course : such countries are, it is true, generally COCOA TREK. 219 very fertile ; but there are also in those some places which are, at the same time, well watered, fertile, and very healthy. The cocoa tree is the favourite object of agri- culture in the ci-devant Spanish colonies. Their neighbours, the English and French colonists, assert that they, prefer the cultivation of this plant to that of all others, because it requires scarcely any labour, and that an agreeable nap may be taken under its shade. This consideration may have its weight with many, in the preference which the Spanish colonists give in growing the cocoa tree. Cocoa was unknown to the inhabitants of the old world, until the discovery of the new. It was the favourite nourishment of the indige- nous inhabitants : the cocoa bean served for small money in Mexico, as eggs and cocoa nuts are now passed in Caraccas and Cumana. At first, and after the conquest, the taste for cocoa or chocolate passed from America to Spain, where the opulent would sooner do without bread than chocolate. We owe the introduction of this luxury, as agree- able as it is wholesome, to the monks, who were great admirers of good things ; it was they who first brought it into use in France. Could it have been that Linneeus coincided in opinion with them, when he gave it the religious name of Theobroma, divine beverage ? The cocoa tree bears fruit in four years after it has been planted, the following year still more, COFFEK. and increases in fecundity until the ninth or tenth year, when it is in full bearing. Its fruit resembles somewhat the pine tops; but it never grows higher than twelve or fifteen feet. It is useless for me to describe its botanical character- istics, which are well known to all persons conver- sant in that science. Those who wish to be informed as to the mode of cultivating it, can satisfy their curiosity by reference to the second volume of M. Depons' Travels in the Eastern Part of Terra Firma. It is impossible to speak of cocoa without think- ing of vanilla, the epindendrum vanilla, of which the odoriferous fruit is used for givingthe former a delicious perfume. This parasitical plant is culti- vated in the hot countries of Mexico ; but it is collected wild in the provinces of Venezuela and Trinidad, where it would produce considerable gain to the inhabitants, if they gave themselves the trouble of cultivating it. M. de Humboldt has very properly ridiculed the opinion of certain grave and ignorant persons, who pretend that vanilla injures the nerves. It is with this opinion as with that of certain parents, who tell their chil- dren that they should not eat too much sugar, because it spoils the teeth ! It is known that vanilla is a stimulant equally wholesome and agreeable. Previous to the French revolution, coffee was not cultivated in the Spanish colonies as an article of commerce. The American and European ■ EDICT OK CHARLES II [. 221 Spaniards scarcely ever used that article, which is so deservedly esteemed among us : when they are asked a reason for it, they reply gravely, that it heats the blood : the British and French colonists assert that it is from indolence the Span- ish colonists do not grow the coffee tree ; and cer- tainly there is no colonial agriculture that requires so much pains, and such assiduous care from the beginning to the end of the year, as this plant ; which would never have agreed with the slothful habits of the Spanish colonists, as they were thirty years ago. However, the edict of free trade issued by Charles III. at Madrid, in 1778, deve- loped the moral faculties of the colonial Spaniards in all their activity and energy, which until then had laid dormant. It is from that period we may date the efforts they have made for adopting the agriculture of the British, French, and Dutch colonies. Venezuela owes to Don Bartholomeo Blandin the first example of this branch of culti- vation, with which the perseverance of a French- man enriched Martinico and other parts of America, at the commencement of the last cen- tury. In 1784, Blandin devoted his capital and plantations at Chacao, situated at a league from the town of Caraccas, to the cultivation of coffee. The soil on which he formed his plantations is not well adapted for this plant : however, by dint of attention and industry he succeeded in forcing nature to a certain degree. A priest of the Ora- tory, named Sojo, established coffee plantations in 222 CULTIVATION OF COFFEE. the neighbourhood of those of M. Blandin. The ruin of St. Domingo, consummated by the insur- rection which took place in 1790, leaving a great void in the markets of the old world, was the principal cause that induced the colonists of Venezuela to apply themselves to its cultivation ; and from 1793 until the peace of Amiens, there have been a great number of large plantations of coffee formed in various parts of Venezuela, as also in the islands of Porto Rico and Jamaica. It was the French who emigrated from St. Do- mingo that introduced the culture of it into those islands. This plant cannot be advantageously cultivated in countries situated beyond twenty-five degrees of latitude ; as the climate of the Bermudas, though in 32° 35 is too cold for it during the winter. ^ For the same reason, it is wrong to persist in cultivating it in those parts of Vene- zuela, which by their elevation above the sea, have a temperature of 12° or 10° of Reaumur's thermo- meter: that which agrees best with the coffee tree, seldom rises above 20°, and never descends below 10°. Under this degree of heat, it will cease to produce ; which is the reason why it is useless to think of introducing it even into the warmest parts of Europe. This plant thrives best in a mild and rather moist temperature: the excessive heat of the sun does not agree with it, and it flourishes in the vicinity of forests and rivulets. In St. Domingo, Martinico and Guada- CULTIVATION OF C0FFEF. 2*23 loupe, it is only cultivated on the hills; but ex- perience has proved in Venezuela, Trinidad, Demerara, Berbice and Essequibo, that it thrives equally well in the plains, when placed in a pro- per soil. Cold and hard argillaceous earths, and also the sandy clay that lies on a bed of marl, are not lit for coffee plantations • for at the end of twelve or fifteen years the tree would no longer produce, and would perish on such soils. It is best placed in black deep arable ground which retains the humidity well. If there be a quantity of small stones in such ground, the tree becomes still more productive. In Venezuela, the proper mode of cultivating coffee was not well known in 1807: the above is the manner adopted by the most in- telligent French planters. The plantations of coffee trees succeeded only in places where the woods have been felled : the grounds called savannas in those countries (natural meadows), or those which have been planted with sugar, cotton, or indigo, are not fit for the coflee tree, as they have been too much dried by the sun. Formerly coflee trees were planted toocloselv in the French colonies at the distance of only four feet, so that their branches intermingled and injured each other. The influence of light and air on vegetation was not well understood then. Mr. Bruley, of St. Domingo, has written a sen- sible treatise on their cultivation, of which I shall give an extract in this place. 221 CULTIVATION OF COFFEE. " To procure the coffee plant, they went under the whole trees, and dug- up the young plants produced by the fall ofllie ripe fruit, which were transported from one plantation to another : after having cut off a part of their roots, they were placed in holes dug purposely for them. This method is defective; a great part of the plants obtained in such a manner, independently of the mal-conformation that miVht have occurred in them, under the old coffee tree, had, besides, the defect of never having been exposed to the sun's rays ; therefore the planter had not a certainty of success in their growth. It was frequently found that planters had to renew their planta- tions for several successive years, before they became regular. " I avoided this inconvenience by a practice which many planters have adopted since. I sowed at a distance of six inches, in regular rows, and in ground prepared for that purpose, certain grains of coffee : this became a nursery, which I watered and took great care of ; and from thence I took the young coffee plants necessary for making my plantations. When it was necessary to remove them from the nursery, care was taken to moisten the earth well, and then with a single cut of the spade, the young coffee tree was raised, with the mass of clay that surrounded its roots. " It may be easily imagined that the coffee plants thus transplanted from the nursery to the holes destined to receive them, suffered no alter- ^H CULTIVATION OF COFFEE. 226 ation or hindrance in their vegetation, and con- sequently the plantations were regular. Very- few plants required to be replaced ; none were defective in their structure ; while all were ac- customed to a scorching sun : I mitigated its effects on the earth in which those young trees were planted, by placing heaps of pebbles close to them, which preserved the moisture of the ground even in the driest time of the year. All those coffee trees had the advantage of being more flourishing, stronger, and bearing sooner than those of my neighbours, planted at the same time, according to the old method. I am assured that these plantations, though neglected like all those of St. Domingo, are still fine." I have already said that the coffee trees were planted too closely together in the French colo- nies : they were placed at four feet asunder, and in all kinds of ground. This circumstance was the cause that good crops were obtained only in poor land. It is now understood that they should be planted at distances of seven or eight feet in a good soil. They are also planted in triangle or in quincunx, by which a sixth part of the ground is saved. The deeper the vegeta- tive mould is, the deeper the holes should be dug ; but if the good soil be shallow, care must be taken that the holes be not too deep, because the plant will die when the roots reach the volcanic ashes or tufa. 226 ORINOCO NUTMEG. Coffee trees produce but little unless their growth be impeded by cutting* : they are cut at two feet and a half on middling soils, and at four and a half or live feet on very fertile grounds. This plant produces some fruit in two years after it has been planted: it produces still more in the third year; in seven years it is in full bearing, and lives to seventy and eighty years, when in a proper soil and well cultivated. I shall not enter into further details on its cultivation, which would be no novelty to the inhabitants of our colonies, and totally unnecessary to an Euro- pean reader. There is, however, in what I have said, and in that which I have quoted from M. Bruly, information which will not be useless to many planters in the Spanish colonies where this subject is not yet well understood. I also wish to recommend them to plant their nurseries of coffee plants under the shade of bananas, and to transplant them, as they practise with their cocoa trees, to the shade of the erythrina, which they call la madre del cacao, mother of cocoa. I shall say nothing of the plants that produce cotton, arnotto, indigo, which are all cultivated in Venezuela, and yield superior qualities there. They have in their exportable commodities, a grain of two lobes, which the people of the country call puchery, or pichurim, and to which the French Creoles have given the name of the Orinoco nutmeg, because it has an aromatic odour very similar to that of the oriental nutmeg. ■Hni A MEDICINE. 227 I have never been able to see the tree that pro- duces this grain, which grows near the banks of the Rio Negro, and is sold at a very low price in the country. It belongs to a species of laurel. Mr. Richard told me he had found one in French Guiana, the fruit of which, as described by him, appeared not to differ from that used in com- merce. Why do not the inhabitants of Vene- zuela cultivate it at home ? Since the flavour of its fruit is such an agreeable aromatic when wild, it is presumed that it would acquire a more supe- rior quality if domesticated. I have found that a decoction of it mixed with sugar and magnesia, is a powerful remedy in the disease known by the name of dry cholic, which makes such havoc among the negroes, and even sometimes among the whites in the Antilles. Combined with sugar and a small quantity of opium, it is an excellent remedy for tenesmus and dysentery. The Swed- ish and Danish physicians tell wonderful things of it.* One day when I was going from my plantation, situated on the north side of Trinidad, to Port Spain, accompanied by M. de la Barrere, and when ex- hausted with fatigue, sickness, and vexation, I rested near a cascade which rushes from the moun- tain of Las Cuevas, my indefatigable companion was collecting plants above me ; I heard him * This is a very common spice in the Brazils and Portugal, where it is called Noz Nosgada, and sold very cheap. — Ed. Q 2 a*8 YEW TREK. suddenly exclaim, " what do I see ! is that a yew tree ? pray come and look at it. I have tra- versed," said M. de la Barrere, " the woods and mountains of this island a hundred times, and never met with a tree that had the appearance of this one :" it was in full bloom. We had some Indians with us, who climbed like squirrels : one was sent up to gather some of the fruit and blossoms : he soon threw dow T n plenty of them. The berry of this tree is larger than that of the yew, Taxus baccata, and of a taste at once rough and sweet ; its flowers do not differ from those of the yew baccata, otherwise than in being larger and purplish ; but its leaves narrow and thick, are rather lancet shaped than blunt, which is the reason that M. de Jussieu considers it to be a Podocarpus, or species ap- proaching the yew. The yew, or Podocarpus of Las Cuevas, is taller and thicker than that of Europe : we saw one of about sixty feet high, and four or five others appeared to be from forty to fifty feet in height. The thermometer, in the shade, is generally between sixteen and eighteen degrees on the mountain of Las Cuevas : there is scarcely sufficient coolness there to keep alive some arborescent fern, which have neither the height nor thickness of those which grow in Guadaloupe on the tops and sides of the Souffriere, Matouba, and Mont d'Or. Still it is an interesting circumstance for the geography of plants, to see a yew, or a species so nearly I ■■ . . ■■ m0 ■■ Jptc CASCADES. 229 allied to it, which exists in ten degrees of latitude, at about two thousand feet only above the level of the sea. This phenomenon can only be explained by the numerous rivulets which meander in the range of Las Cuevas, and by the breezes of the north wind that come from the direction of North America, and which, from the month of No- vember to the beginning of April, produce such a coolness in the more elevated parts of this island, that it is not uncommon for Reaumur's thermometer to descend to 12°, an hour after the sun's setting: I have seen it at 11° half an hour before sun-rise. While surveying the surrounding scenery, 1 recollected an expression made to me six years before, by the learned Walker^, when I spoke to him of the forests of South America : " Oh ! what a fine sermon those forests are!" said he. On this spot all conduced to grave and melancholy meditation. From the point on which we stood, I saw five cascades precipitating their waters over each other. To the east, I saw and heard the sea rushing with fury into the caverns of Las Cuevas ; it was calm to the west, and in the Gulf of Paria : what a true emblem of human life ! It is in this vast silence of the forests, this calm of nature, * Professor of natural history at Edinburgh. 230 GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. that the virtuous man whose mind is wounded by persecution and misfortune, should go to meditate and soothe his soul. It is there, that in the innocent society of the vegetable world, and by observing its mysterious laws, he may con- template on one summit, bananas, balisiers, ma- hogany, cedar, the fern, and yew, which, though natives of different sites and temperatures, vege- tate on the same point of our planet, without hot houses, or other stimulus from human aid, whilst man often exists only to torment his fellow creature ! Geological Observations. The great range of mountains in Guiana and Venezuela, which runs east and west, is com- posed of gneiss and micaceous schistus, in which are found chrystals of quartz. The micaceous schistus {glimmers chief er of Werner) makes a transition sometimes into talcous schistus, and the decomposition of this latter substance gives a greasy appearance to the soil. There is also found in the ridge of mountains on the coast, between Punta de Piedra and Guiria, near Cape de Paria, at a league from the sea, a blueish calcareous stone, similar to that which M. de Humboldt designates under the term of the Alpine calcareous stone (alpenkalkstein.J This rock is rather hard, and veined with white calcareous carbonate chrystallized : it rests on coagulated ^kSfVi'lV. ' H| ■ GEOLOGICAL OBSERVA I'lONS. 231 clay with pebbles of the primitive rocks. I found near Carupano, outside the Gulf of Paria, and in Ihevallies of the coast mountains, lamellated gyp- sum near the beds of rivers, and in places they had abandoned. On leaving the foot of those mountains and the mouth of the Orinoco, to coast the sea shore to the river of Amazons, there seems to be no other substance than a vegetative argillaceous earth, deep and fertile, without rocks or pebbles. All the coasts of this country, from the mouth of the Orinoco, to the Lake of Maracaybo, are primitive. The part of that country which is low, and almost every where on the same level, has been formed evidently by the ruins of moun- tains, and the sediment of the waters of the Ori- noco, which are thrown back on the coast bv the force of the waves and currents. Those alluvial and marshy earths are every day more and more covered with mangroves frhizophora mangle,) which thrive in the sea, or on its shores, in those climates. It is evident that in this part of the world, the land encroaches con- tinually on the sea, and thus marine shells are found at some distance from the coast, and in places that the sea has recently abandoned. Such is the coast south-west of the Island of Trinidad, and that situated towards the right bank of the Orinoco. Near the mouths of the Orinoco there are only grounds inundated and covered with mangroves, 232 VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS. and other trees natural to the sea shore, and not a single rock in that multitude of islets covered with various kinds of palms, and inhabited by the Guaraouns. But on the borders of the sea, between the Guarapiche and the Orinoco, there are found fragments of quartz, rounded quartzose pebbles, and shingle of rocks composed of various colours, such as green, yellow, red, blue, &c. The magnetic needle indicates the presence of iron in almost all those pebbles and rocks. In short, the Amazons, the rivers of Cayenne and Surinam, the Demarara, Essequibo, and all the other streams that discharge themselves on this coast, enable it to advance continually on the sea, and imperceptibly augment the territory of Trinidad ; so that it may be predicted that the Gulf of Paria will some day be no more than a channel through which the waters of the Ori- noco and Guarapiche will be conveyed to the ocean. The course of the currents which con- tinually form and increase this coast, is from south-east to north-west, from the mouth of the Amazons to beyond Cape de Paria. This country has been almost every where convulsed by volcanoes ; but the volcanic effects there do not resemble those of Europe, owing to the difference of geological constitution. Here is found gypsum, which abounds in sulphur ; elsewhere pyrites mingled with all kinds of rocks, even with the granitic rocks ; bituminous muriatic argile, petrolium or asphaltum. The HBS >1INES. 233 rains of sea water which frequently fall on this soil heated by a burning sun, and which are de- composed in it, nourish the volcanoes, that send forth eruptions of argillaceous mud, and sulphu- rated hydrogen. The gold mines in this country are so unpro- ductive that they have been abandoned. There are no other mines now worked there, than those of copper at San Felipe de Aroa. I have never heard, and M. de Humboldt has no know- ledge of tin mines in Venezuela, which a public paper mentioned some time ago. 234 INDUSTRY AND COMMERCE, CHAP. IV. Industry and Commerce of the ci-devant Spanish Colonies compared with those of England, France, Holland, &c — Lord Chatham's opinion of Colonial Manufactures — Impolicy of encouraging them, — Most adviseable System for Governments to pursue Barbarous Policy of the Spanish Cabinet with regard to the Colonies Juice of the Agave. — Absurd and oppressive Mode of Taxation. — Reflections. — Guipuscoa Company. — Edict of Free Trade. — Prohibitions of the Spanish Government. — Remarks on the Work of M. Depons. — Con- traband Trade of English Merchants. — Facts and Observations re- lative thereto. — Panegyric on the Custom House, and Revenue Laws of Great Britain. — Remarks on the Colonial System of France, and Consequences of the prohibitory Regulations of Spain. — List of various Duties, Imposts, &c. — Privileges accorded to French Set- tlers in the Spanish Colonies by the Family Compact. — Annual Amount of Exports from Venezuela. — Concluding Remarks. Whilst the British, French and Dutch colonies in America had arrived at the highest degree of prosperity which each of them could attain, re- latively to the degree of prosperity enjoyed by their respective parent states, the Spanish colo- nies, which are so superior to them in extent and beauty, in the salubrity and variety of their cli- mates, and by all the riches which are lavished there in the three great departments of natural his- tory, languished, in a state of misery and stagna- tion, bordering on the barbarity in which the H SB LORD CHATHAM. 235 semi-civilized nations of Asia and Africa are still plunged. The original cause of this state of things is found in the exclusive system of com- mercial companies, to which they had long been sacrificed ; and since the abolition of those com- panies, in the impossibility Spain found herself with the absurd laws which oppressed her com- merce, to export the raw materials of her co- lonies, or manufacture them, at the same time that she prohibited their being manufactured by the colonists at home, or to sell them in their crude state to the neighbouring nations. All nations have had more or less of this jealousy ; but other states have possessed the necessary means or industry for supplying the wants of their colonies. Previous to the great revolution which liberated North America, Lord Chatham declared in Parliament, that it ought to be prohibited to the colonists, under the most severe penalties, to spin a single thread or forge a nail. By this hyperbolic ex- pression he meant to prove, that commerce and navigation would experience a great check, if the Americans were permitted to work their raw materials ; which a great number of English vessels were employed in bringing from those colonies, the profits of which maintained a multi- tude of seamen, the nursery of the navy, at the same time that they caused their manufacturing towns to flourish, whose wealth was disseminated 236 M. DU BUC. by all the channels of industry among every class of citizens. And it must be confessed that the chief part of the colonies have been, or are still in a state in which it would be injurious to subtract a portion of their population, to be employed in the refinements of manufacturing' industry ; be- cause those very objects may be furnished to them on much better terms from the East Indies and Europe ; countries where, on account of their great population, workmanship is at a very low price. Thus it was seen, about thirty years ago, at Martinico, that M. du Buc, a man of other- wise good sense and considerable talents, lost in a short time more than two millions of francs (eighty thousand pounds), by having attempted to establish sugar refineries in that island. Since the Americans of the United States have become an independent people, they have had the wisdom to avoid diverting their population from agricul- ture to manufactures : they find it more profit- able to carry the raw produce of their soil to Eu- rope and to India in their own vessels ; by which their merchants and mariners gain considerable freight ; which bring home to them in exchange the manufactured merchandizes of the old world, and which do not cost them so dear as if they had been wrought among themselves, notwithstand- ing the duties established by congress on all kinds of merchandize imported from foreign nations, w$m SPANISH l'OLICY. 237 duties which form nearly nine tenths of the revenue of this economical government.* It should not be concluded from the above, that certain branches of industry ought to be in- terdicted to the colonists : such prohibitions are calculated only to render governments odious. A wise administration leaves trade to find its own level, and does not imitate the ancient Spanish ministry, who, although their nation had neither the means nor industry to consume, nor to trans- port to other countries the productions of those beautiful and immense colonies, still less to pro- vide for their wants, yet would not permit them to establish manufactories there, or to procure a great number of the most necessary and agree- able objects sought for by wealthy people from their neighbours ; such as stuffs, furniture, jewels, liquors of India and Europe, nor even the uten- sils for agriculture and the mechanical arts. All those conveniences have long been interdicted to the inhabitants of the Spanish colonies, who had the vexation and shame to see themselves wretched, ragged, and almost as naked as savages, whilst their neighbours, the English, French, Dutch, * This assertion of the author is not borne out by late com- munications, from which it appears that both the American peo- ple and government have seriously turned their attention to the establishment of manufactories, which, according to the old system of transatlantic bombast, are to rival those of Europe, particularly England, in the course of a very short period, if they do not already realize that pleasing dream. — Ed. 238 OBSTACLES TO COMMERCE. and even the Portuguese, though in a country far less abundant in natural and metallic riches, lived in the midst of comforts, enjoyments, and luxury. Volumes might be filled in recounting the absurd acts of the ancient Spanish govern- ment, which had for their object those line but] unfortunate colonies. It is known that all the productions of Europe and Asia grow ad- mirably well in Mexico, Peru and Caraccas, according as the ground is elevated above the sea, or approximating to it. The inhabitants of those countries have been able and willing to cultivate the productions of Europe, and from the com- mencement of the last century, the olive and vine. The government of the mother country put ob- stacles in the way of such cultivation, even so far as to prohibit it. The Peruvians and Mexicans paid very little attention to those prohibitions, and the government not feeling itself sufficiently strong to enforce such iniquitous measures, shut its eyes on their disobedience. However, in 1802, on the representations of the merchants of Cadiz, who informed His Catholic Majesty that the cul- tivation of the vine and olive tree in Mexico, injured the interests of his good city of Cadiz, an order was sent to the viceroy, Don Joseph de Yturrigarray, to cause all the vines and olive trees there to be extirpated. That prudent gover- nor took upon himself to avoid putting such a barbarous order into execution, the consequences m02&ti§^M ii|w|^ COMMERCIAL MONOPOLY. 239 of which might have led to the immediate inde- pendence of Mexico. The rapacity of a company of traders knows neither shame nor limits, when they acquire too much influence with a govern- ment, as may be seen in the conduct of the Bri- tish and Dutch East India Companies. The reader has just seen that the merchants of Cadiz would have caused the destruction of the vine and olive in America ; but there is also ano- ther indigenous plant, the juice of which ferment- ed, has been the favourite beverage of the Mex- icans from the earliest antiquity. The maguay, or agave, a species of the pine-apple, produces a kind of wine called pulque. The said Cadiz traders requested of the government to order the destruction of all the plantations of it; and this order, which is not unique of the kind in the annals of commercial tyranny, was sent, it is asserted, to the viceroy, Count de Revillagigedo, in 1791.* It might be said that at the breaking out of the French revolution, a kind of vertigo infested the councils of Europe. The Count of Revillagigedo not only took care not to put such an order into execution, but he even concealed it from the officers of the government. It was this viceroy who rendered such great services to the * All those who have studied history, from the time of the Tyrians and Carthaginians, to our own days, need not be told that no tyranny ever equalled that of trading governments towards foreign eountries subject to their domination. 240 SOURCE OF REVENUE. sciences, arts, agriculture and navigation, and who, I believe, was the first that attempted to compose a statistical account of Mexico ; a work which it was reserved for M. de Humboldt to complete, with that superiority of genius which characterizes all his productions. The fermented juice of the agave is thus for the Mexicans, that which wine is for the people of the south, and cider or beer for those of the north of Europe. They extract from this wine a spirit that they call mexical, or aqua ardiente de maguey. This spirit was prohibited for a long time, because it injured the trade in Spanish brandies. But in those distant countries, they eluded such a tyrannical order, and the govern- ment at length permitted the inhabitants of the internal provinces, and those of Tuspan, a dis- trict in the intendency of Gaudalaxara, to sell their pulque brandy publicly, merely imposing a slight duty on it. From that time the com- plaints ceased, and the people paid the tax with- out murmuring. The cultivation of the maguey, says M. de Humboldt, is become such an impor- tant object for the exchequer, that the duties of entry paid in the three towns of Mexico, Pue- bla and Toluca (the first of those towns had, in 1808, 140,000, the second 68,000, and the third 50,000 inhabitants,) amounted in 1793, to the sum of 817,739 dollars ; the expences of collecting it then were 56,608 dollars ; so that the govern- ment derived from those three towns onlv, from v^if4 k'^iP ^fi$2$583&i TAXfeS. 241 from the juice of the agave, a net profit of 761,131 dollars. M. de Humboldt adds that the immo- derate desire of augmenting the royal revenues latterly, induced them to overburthen the manu- factory of pulque in a vexatious and inconsiderate manner ; and that if the government did not change the system in this respect, it may be expected that this branch of cultivation, one of the most ancient and lucrative, will gradually decline, in spite of the decided predilection of the Mexicans for the maguey wine. The blind and impolitic mode in which taxes were imposed by the Spanish government, proves that it was ignorant of the first elements of finan- cial legislation ; the great art of which is to ex- tend the imposts on the greatest possible num- ber of objects, and to render them light on each object that can best support them : their produce is then immense, it arrives continually at the trea- sury, and neither alarms nor oppresses any one ; they are not exposed to evasion, and always easy of collection. Thus received, the direct or in- direct taxes enrich the state, provided they do not impede industry. But what the ancient Spanish government could not comprehend, though a very obvious case, was that the more it augmented the rates of imposts, the less pro- ductive they were found to be; When it is only the superfluous, that is affected by the duties, two and two make four for a long time in finance as in arithmetic ; but when the exaction is made R 242 MANUFACTURES. too deeply, the consumption, which decreases, limits the indirect impost ; labour, which also decreases as much, abridges the direct impost ; so that in a short time the old axiom so often referred to in fiscal concerns, no longer holds good/"" Peru and the provinces on the Pacific Ocean, have not been so ill-treated by the Spanish laws, owing to the great distance of those provinces,which must be reached by doubling Cape Horn, or the im- mense voyage by the East Indies. It was there- fore necessary to grant them permission to sow corn, and other articles for their subsistence, and also to plant vines and olives. Not being able to send the stuffs requisite for clothing them, or other instruments and utensils necessary for civilized man so far, they have been permitted for a long time past, to manufacture those articles at home. Thus, though the provinces of Mexico, New Granada, Caraccas, the Islands of Cuba, Porto Rico, Trinidad, and the Spanish part of St. Do- mingo, all those colonies, in fact, whose shores are washed by the northern ocean, though they are much better situated than Peru for trading * In 1794, Mr. Pitt doubled the duties on Portugal wines. In one year the receipt diminished £100,000, the duty was re- established on the former scale, and the receipt augmented to the amount that it had previously been.f t What a lesson for the present Chancellor of the Exchequer ! and how truly he stands in need of it, many of his late taxes prove ! — Ed. *Mmy$&$M ^^^H MIXING. 213 with Europe, have for a long time presented only a picture of poverty and decrepitude, unit- ed to that of the very infancy of social order. In those countries the proprietors of mines alone were wealthy; and the rage for discovering them, which can only be compared to the passion for gaming, was daily the cause of ruining a great number of families, and a source of immorality peculiar to those countries. The more the Spa- nish government encouraged this species of gam- ing, the more it impeded agriculture and colo- nial industry. It seemed as if all that was not mines, interested it very little; that it desired to have no more subjects in the new world than were necessary for working them ; and that above all, it feared that they would become too rich and too well informed ; for all the colonial institutions tend to preserve them in ignorance and misery. Still, after having drawn this dismal picture of the Spanish colonies, it is but proper to say, that in spite of the unjust and barbarous orders deceitfully obtained from the sovereigns of the last dynasty, by insatiable traders, and corrupt ministers, those kings have done more for the prosperity of their colonies, than Charles V. and his descendants ; witness the treaty by which that monarch, after having depopulated his states, and exhausted his finances, sold, in 1528, the country of Venezuela to the Wel- sers, who made that fine country a scene of r 2 244 GL'IPIJSCOA COMPANY. pillage, devastation, and all the crimes which exclusive commercial companies alone can in- vent, when they are permitted to exercise sove- reign authority. The descendants of Charles V. constantly sacrificed the interests of Spain to those of their German possessions, or to other political considerations, as may be seen in the ruinous treaties made with the Hanse Towns in 1647; with Holland, in 1648; and with Eng- land in 1667. And while the Spanish commerce was abandoned to the neighbouring nations, dur- ing the fifteenth, sixteenth, and the beginning of the seventeenth centuries, from the abolition of the privilege of the Welsers, which took place in 1547, the port of Seville alone had for a long time, the privilege of trading with the colonies. This privilege passed to Cadiz at the commence- ment of the seventeenth century, and so con- tinued exclusively until 1728, when the Guipus- coa Company was established. The charter of concession declared that the province of Guipuscoa was authorized to form a commercial company, which should have its agents at Cadiz, the port from whence its vessels should sail, and to which they should return to discharge their homeward bound cargoes. The number of ships was limited to two, and the countries to which they were permitted to trade, were those which composed the captain general- ship of Caraccas. Those vessels, armed with from forty to fifty guns, were authorized to cruize tmt0 ^^^H^^H k0§ l$0$z v&m FIRST OPERATIONS. 245 between the great mouth of the Orinoco and that of the Rio de la Hache, from the time they dis- charged their cargoes, until their departure for Europe, in order to capture interlopers. In 1734, the company obtained new privileges, the king having declared that shares might be held in it, directly or indirectly, without derogating from nobility, and without loss of honour, rank, or reputation. It is certainly not astonishing that commerce, the vivifying principle of states, should languish, and that ignorance and barba- rity should triumph in a country, and among a people where such a declaration was necessary. Here a new era begins ; more liberal princi- ples begin to influence the cabinet of Madrid : the company obtained by that charter permis- sion to arm as many vessels as it thought pro- per, and to equip them in the ports of San Sebas- tian and Passage ; but the returns were to be made to the port of Cadiz. The first operations of the company were bril- liant, and the colonists had no cause to complain of them ; but by the charters dated in 1742 and 1752, it so extended and abused its privileges, that the complaints of the colonists forced the government to suppress it by the famous edict of the 12th of October, 1778, known by the name of that of free trade. At the above period, North America had given a great lesson to parent states : it would seem that this wasnol totally lost to the court of Madrid ; and 24G COLONIZATION. the monopolizing merchants of Cadiz ought to have been convinced, that their commerce in- creased instead of having diminished, according as the government relaxed the chains in which the agriculture and industry of the colonies languished. This order of things is, no doubt, by far pre- ferable to that which existed before ; but still this iast system adopted by the Spanish govern- ment was as much behind that which existed in the French colonies, as the administration in the latter was inferior to the excellent regulations by which the British colonies in the West Indies were governed. If Spain, instead of occupying herself almost exclusively with metals, when she made the con- quest of America, and during the two centuries which succeeded it, had excited the industry of her subjects to colonial agriculture, that is to say, the cultivation of sugar, coffee, cocoa, cotton, indigo, cochineal, and all the other productions so valuable in the European markets, she would have rendered Europe a tributary of her com- merce. But to arrive at that object, it would have been necessary to have attracted the subjects of foreign states to settle in her colonies. Far from adopting such a wise measure, she would not, at first, per- mit any other nation to establish itself in Ame- rica. Posterity will scarcely believe that it is on a papal bull that this power founds its rights to that part of the world. The other European &'$%%t< ^Mil^0^m COLONIAL SYSTEM. 247 nations which wished to make establishments there after the Spaniards, had to defend them- selves from them still more than from the Indians. This absurd and unjust conduct gave birth to the famous buccaneers, a set of heroical robbers who long retarded the progress of the Spanish colo- nies. Let us now glance at the ancient colonial sys- tem of Spain and her custom-house regulations. M. Depons compares the Spanish colonial system to that which formerly existed in the French colonies ; he eulogizes both, and according to him the latter was a master-piece of human wisdom. In truth, it cannot be conceived from whence M. Depons has derived his documents. The mode of praising, is at least as dangerous as that of blaming every thing ; and it appears that M. Depons, when he undertook his work, was deter- mined to find all that had been done by the an- cient Spanish government, excellent as well as that which had been effected by the ancient French government. I believe that he might, without failing in the gratitude which he owed to the former government, draw a very striking picture of the imperfections and vices of the ad- ministration of the Spanish colonies. He says, for instance, in the second volume, (see Statistics of Caraccas.) that the fiscal theory of local imposts introduced into America, serves by its produce to maintain an infinite number of revenue officers employed by the Spanish government ; places, 248 M. DE TALLEYRAND. he says, that are solicited with urgency, and occupied with dignity. Surely this must be intended as a satire ; for I cannot comprehend what that dignity can be in all those custom- house officers or Spanish gabelous, who were always ready to hold out their hands to the first smuggler who has occasion to bribe them ! 7'lie Spanish colonies comprised in the captain general- ship of Caraccas, would have remained much longer in their infancy, if they had not had for neighbours the Dutch of Curacoa, who have made great advances to them since 1634, and received in payment hides, cotton, and cocoa. Now it was the vicious system of the Spanish custom- house laws, that gave such an advantage to strangers over their own subjects, as I shall ex- plain ; though M. Depons says, that it was the ill-conceived system of the French custom-house laws, previous to the revolution, which gave such great advantages to the English in the trade of colonial produce, especially those adapted for manufactories. Whatever may be said by the defenders of those absurd systems, the facts speak more clearly than arguments ; for, to use the expression of a celebrated statesman in political economy, facts become the very proofs of science, after having been its materials.* Why then, if the commercial laws and custom- * M. de Talleyrand's Treatise on the Commercial Relations of North America t ■ PRIVILEGES. 249 house regulations of France and Spain were more ably arranged than those of the English and Dutch, as M. Depons asserts, could those na- tions sell their colonial produce at as low prices as ours, in the European markets, though our colonies were larger and more fertile than theirs ? Why could they sell our own raw colonial pro- duce there, and even the manufactured, in certain circumstances cheaper? The contraband trade of the Virgin Islands, small and barren colonies of the English, will explain this fact in the course of the present chapter. To return to the Spanish colonies : from the abolition of the Guipuscoa Company, which took place in 1780, the port of Cadiz enjoyed the privilege of trading with Spanish America until 1785 ; but that liberty has been since extended to the ports of Sevilla, Malaga, Alme- ria, Alicant, Carthagena, Valencia, Barcelona, Alfagues, Tortosa, Santandero, Gijon, Vigo and Majorca ; as also to those of Santa Cruz, Palma, and Santa Cruz in Teneriffe in the Canary Islands. Still it was prohibited to those islands to trade with America in any other articles than those of their own soil. It is remarkable that this prohibi- tion, as well as their position, were the causes of there being more contraband trade carried on there than elsewhere : several rich commercial English houses were engaged in that trade under the mask of the Irish Catholics. It happened in those islands, as it occurs every where, when a government establishes regulations too severe, without hav- 250 ENGLISH AND DUTCH TUADGRS. ing the means of making them respected ; that of their being only an additional incitement to fraud : in short, the Spanish governors and admi- nistrators having much more to gain by tolerating smuggling than by suppressing it, divided the profits of that trade with the agents of the British commercial houses established in those islands. Wise regulations, which instead of embarrassing and discouraging national commerce, might favour and protect it, could alone restrain the con- traband trade. It was the fluctuations still more than the rigour of the Spanish and French custom- house laws, which gave to the English such great advantages over their competitors. Many causes contributed to their success, and they owed much of it, more to the negligence and thoughtlessness of the ancient European govern- ments, and the corruption of some of their minis- ters, than to the ability of their manufacturers. There must, however, be this justice done to the English, that with the exception of the Dutch, they possess and know better than any other nation in Europe, the principlesof commercial companies; and great companies, as well as great commercial houses, will always have incalculable advantages over individual merchants, who can employ only moderate capitals : the English have also better known and appreciated the value and distribution of time and labour, than any other European nation ; which caused them to invent so many admirably useful machines ; and adopt various other measures to facilitate commerce. BRITISH ANTILLES. 251 But even though I should be accused of repeti- tion, I can prove, by many examples, that it is to their revenue laws, the good regulation of their custom-houses, to their bounties and drawbacks, that they principally owe the advantage of being- able to sell at a lower price than other nations in the European markets. The British Antilles had become the staple of the French and Spanish colonies, which, no doubt, derived some advantages from it ; but to the great detriment of French commerce, and, conse- quently, of French agriculture and manufactures. By a proclamation of the 1st November, 1766, the King of Great Britain opened, for the transit of merchandize, the Ports of Prince Rupert and Roseau in the Island of Dominica, and those of Kingston, Savanna la Mar, Montego Bay, and Santa Lucia in the Island of Jamaica. Various acts or proclamations, dated in 1774 and 1775, have extended or modified those privileges accord- ing to circumstances; subsequent proclamations by the British Government, have granted the same favour to the Islands of Grenada, Providence, and in 1797, to that of Trinidad. Those acts, or proclamations, are simply invita- tions which the king of Great Britain addresses to merchants in the French and Spanish colonies to carry on contraband trade w T ith his subjects. I shall first mention the Virgin Islands, as an instance of the immense trade of that nature, which England maintained there with some of 252 VIRGIN ISLANDS. the Spanish colonies, and with the French colo- nies of the Lesser Antilles. In 1788, Great Britain exported from those barren islets, to the amount of £ 1/1 50,000 of colonial produce, which im- mense value she paid for in her manufactures ; for this opulent nation scarcely ever uses gold or silver in her commerce, and never takes specie into her colonies, from whence, if she extracts it, it is in Spanish or Portuguese money. The Virgin Islands are a chain of islets almost sterile, situated between St. Kitt's and Porto Rico, and which with difficulty maintain fifteen hundred whites or free people of co- lour, and nine thousand negroes occupied in the cultivation of cotton, working three or four miserable sugar plantations, and in growing the provisions of the country for their subsistence. From the particular knowledge I have of those little islands, I do not hesitate to assert, that the value of their annual natural exports or produc- tions of their soil, scarcely amounts to £'42,000 ; from whence it results that the contraband trade which they carried on in 1788, with Martinico, Gaudaloupe, Mariegalante, and the Spanish Island of Porto Rico, amounted to £1,408,000. Sup- posing that the Island of Puerto Rico furnished as much as £250,000 of this illicit commerce, which is a great deal, considering the languishing state in which its agriculture then was, and the smug- gling trade its inhabitants had also with the Dutch of Saint Eustacia and of Curacoa, it would be Wm B3 SlSffii St CONTRABAND TRADE. 253 demonstrated that in 1788 the English obtained from Martinico, Guadaloupe, and Mariegalante to the value of more than £1,100,000 of sugar, coffee, and cotton. Other islands served also as deposits for this fraudulent trade : such as the Danish Islands of St. Thomas and St. Croix, and the little Swedish Island of St. Bartholomew, nearly all the trade there was carried on for the benefit of Great Britain, by Englishmen, naturalized Danes or Swedes. The British Islands of Saint Vincent and Grenada absorbed almost all the trade of St. Lucie : three- fourths of the produce of this island went to Eng- land. British merchandize only was consumed there, excepting some wines and provisions from France. Our old colony of Tobago, of which all the inhabitants were English, was less mysterious in its smuggling: English vessels naturalized at Dunkirk, brought British merchandize to it, and took a great portion of its produce to England. It was the vices of our ancient revenue system, and that of the Spaniards, still more vicious, which gave the British commerce such an advantage over ours, and especially over that of the Spani- ards, in spite of their rigorous restrictions. By virtue of the twenty-fifth article of the decree of the council of state, of April, 1717, all the production of our colonies paid an import of three percent.; the produce of foreign colonies, which might be transmitted from thence, (an absurd regulation, whereby the neighbouring 254 DUTIES. colonies sent nothing to be sold in ours), were subject to the same duty, previous to their being sent to Europe. It was that which was termed the duty of the western dominions. By the nineteenth article of the same decree, they were subjected on their entry into France to duties whose quota w 7 as relative to each of the commodities. Cotton, for instance, was at first taxed at one franc, ten sous, per quintal ; subse- quent edicts raised this tariff eight sous additional per franc : at length cotton paid, on exportation from the colonies, a duty of nearly five per cent. At the period of which I speak, cotton did not pay any duty whatever in England ; which was the reason that the British, who possessed no cotton colonies, was still on a par with ours by buying it at ten, and ten and a quarter per cent, higher than our merchants could afford, which is easily demonstrated. We shall suppose cotton at two hundred francs per quintal, ancient weight. francs, cents. The fifteenth article of the decree of 1717, established a duty of three percent 6 There was added another duty of thirty sous per quintal, article nineteen of the same decree 1 50 By subsequent edicts, an additional duty of eight sous per franc... 3 Export duty in the colonies, 4£ per cent 9 50 Total 20 Could any thing be more absurd than to tax mgm ran BHBESS h| H9 fl» ST DOMINGO, &C. 255 cotton, indigo, arnotto, raw articles for our manufacturers, on an equality with sugar and coffee, objects of daily use ; to tax raw sugar as high as clayed sugar, &c. ? yet such was the policy of the ancient French government !* * I do not include coffee in these remarks, because St. Domingo produced an immense quantity oi' it previous to the French revo- lution, and had it not been for the destruction of that queen of colonies, this culture would have so progressively increased there, that in 1794, or 1795, coffee might have been sold at ten sous per pound, in the French markets : thus the government could have placed a heavy duty on that article without injury to its cultivation or to our commerce; for Jamaica and the other British colonies produced so little then, that it could not even be rated as an article oi' trade. But things have since changed very much. The colonists of St. Domingo who took refuge in Jamaica, introduced (he practice of this cultivation there, until then so much neglected by the English. The colonies of Dcmarara, Essequibo, and Berbiee, on the continent, which may be said to be identified with Suri- nam, and Cayenne, as they are only separated from them by rivers ; these establishments are become so considerable, that they will soon fill up, in the European markets, the void occasioned by the disturbances in St. Domingo, which they equal, at least, in fertility. Those colonies were so insignificant during the revolutionary war of the United States, that a British detachment made a conquest of them, and M. de Kersaint, with a frigate and two hundred soldiers, drove them out some time afterwards. Never did a country offer to the world, and in such a short time, such a proof of the surprising effects of an enterprising commercial spirit when properly directed. These colonies (Demerara,* Esse- quibo, and Berbiee,) were restored to Holland by the peace of Versailles, in 1783. There were then scarcely two hundred whites there, proprietors of some new plantations, cultivated by about two thousand negroes. This country is flat, and it was for- merly marshy, and shockingly unhealthy : it was, in fact, the grave 256 DGMEHAKA, &C. How then did it happen that the public treasury of Great Britain, which received no duties on the importation of cotton, lost nothing by it? Here is of Europeans: of a hundred individuals who might arrive there at the beginning of the year, scarcely ten remained alive at the end of it. Patience, hydraulics, and Dutch prudence have overcome all those obstacles. I visited that country in 1792; it was then flourishing and drained. Its population at that time amounted to nearly thirty-five thousand souls. More than half of this popu- lation consisted of English, who had deserted their barren colonies, to cultivate one of the most fertile soils in the world. The Dutch merchants advanced considerable sums, at four and a half per cent, to persons of all nations, who went to establish themselves in those new colonies. The interest of the first year was paid along with that of the second, when the latter became due. A su""ar plantation could be established in eighteen months, and rendered twenty per cent, in that country ; therefore, an indus- trious and prudent colonist might have cleared himself and grown rich in six years ! The system of mortgage, which could not yet be introduced into the French colonies, was the source of that prosperity. He, to whom the money was lent, knew that he would be ejected, if he was not punctual in his payments, and the lender did not fear to risk his capital, because in default of pay- ment he took possession of the plantation, which was generally worth much more than the sum he had lent. In 1806, the popu- lation of Demerara, Essequibo, and Berbice, was more than sixty thousand persons without including the Indians. What a glorious event for the spirit of commerce, is not the contrast formed by the brilliant situation to which these colonies were raised in such a short time, in comparison with the Spanish colonies, from which they are separated only by the Orinoco, and to which nature has lavished still more varied advantages ! On one side is seen fine agriculture, rich commerce, an industrious population, that increased in an almost incredible progression ; and on the other, misery in the midst of natural riches, filth, superstition, and laziness ! ! ! Hi ENGLISH TRADE. 257 where the artifice and science of custom houses are found. Those duties were replaced by that which the same cotton paid, when manufactured into cloth, on its exportation from England ; and it was paid by the foreign consumer. The British manufacturer expended ten per cent, less than the French manufacturer. This is not the place to speak of those machines, by means of which he worked cheaper than our manufacturers of that period. It is principally by the simple but able mode in which the revenue laws are regulated in Great Britain, that their exchequer was re- plenished, and that individuals enriched them- selves, as much as by the negligence, ignorance, and want of patriotism in the ancient governments of France and Spain. M. Depons says, that the English, the only competitors whom we had to fear, received their sugar charged with eighteen per cent, more than that which we receive from our colonies ; and he therefore concludes that they must have traded to a disadvantage in foreign ports, when the French merchant was contented with moderate profits. He then adds, that it was owing to the wise com- binations of our ancient legislation, that the preponderance which our trade had obtained was due. Formerly, Barbadoes was the only one of the British colonies whose produce paid a duty on exportation of five and a half per cent. : the other colonies paid no duty whatever on exports. Sugar, 258 DRAWBACK AND BOUNTIES. it is true, was charged with duties on importation into Great Britain to the amount of eighteen per cent. ; but M. Depons ought to have known that on being sent from England to foreign countries, those duties were returned to the merchant, and that is what is termed the drawback. As to tiie other articles of colonial produce, if they were charged with duties, not only were those duties returned on exporting them to foreign states, but even in certain cases the government paid to the exporter a premium of encouragement, and this is what they call a bounty. Far from enjoying similar advantages, the productions of the French colonies, previous to the revolution, were loaded indiscriminately with accumulated duties, which amounted, as I have proved, to more than twenty per cent. Though our sugars and coffees were charged with such duties, it is possible that we might still have maintained a competition with the British trade in those commodities in the European mar- kets, because our colonies produced a much greater quantity of them than the English colonies, and because those colonies were much less fertile than ours: for though I cannot admit the enormous disproportion that Mr. Page* would make be- * Mr. Page considers that the net produce of the labour of a negro on a sugar plantation in Jamaica, is worth only one hun- dred and ninety two francs (£8) annually. (Sec his Political Economy and Commerce of the Colonies, Vol. I. page 19, et SPANISH CUSTOM-HOUSES. 259 tween the produce of a sugar plantation in Jamaica and in St. Domingo, still it is acknow- ledged by all persons who are well acquainted with those colonies, that a sugar plantation in St. Domingo, of an equal quantity of land and num- ber of negroes, generally produced a fourth more than one in Jamaica, owing to the superior ferti- lity of the former island. The administration of the custom houses in the Spanish colonies, was founded on a still more vicious system than in ours. The tariffs were more uncertain, vague and arbitrary. It was a most obscure and ambiguous chaos, known only to the officers of customs, and consequently offer- ing great temptations to the contraband trade, and to the venality of the administrators. All who have frequented those colonies know that the trifling trade carried on there, was monopo- seq.) I cannot admit such a calculation ; I think it ought not to be estimated at less than two hundred and fifty francs. Mr. Page values the produce of a negro in the French Antilles in general, at 333 francs, and still more in St. Domingo. I believe his cal- culations to be tolerably exact, in regard to the French colonies ; but I am sure he has judged too unfavourably of the soil and cul- tivation of Jamaica, when he said that a given surface of land employed in a sugar plantation there, and an equal extent of ground occupied for the same purpose in St. Domingo, is as eight hundred and sixteen to two thousand ! In general the sugar plantations of St. Domingo, Cuba, and Trinidad, produced more than those of Jamaica, owing to the superior fertility of the soil of those islands ; but I believe I may safely assert that this difference is not more than a fourth or fifth. s 2 260 CONTRABAND TRADE. lized by the viceroys, captains-general, intendants, comptrollers,&c. who had commercial connexions with the merchants in the British colonies, and, for some years past, with the United States of America. In 1805 or 1806, an Anglo- Portuguese house established in Philadelphia, had, for instance, the exclusive supply of flour for the Island of Cuba : others have had exclusive privileges for the sale of negroes, &c. &c. It was not quite the same in our colonies : if the French administrators have not always dis- dained to engage in contraband speculations with our neighbours and even our enemies, at least this justice must be rendered to them, that they did not ill-treat those who were in the habits of such illegal speculations ; whilst the bashaws of the Spanish colonies used the utmost rigour towards the unfortunate persons who were captured by the guardacostas, going to sell their commodities in the neighbouring colonies, for the purpose of procuring some of the most necessary articles ; and that whilst the government of the mother country did nothing to promote their agriculture and commerce ; so that the colonists lived in indi- gence, while they were overburdened with natu- ral riches. As to the contraband trade in the French colo- nies, if prejudicial to France, it must be admitted that it was advantageous to the colonists: so that it was not a total loss to the mother country. But the administration of the British colonies is H d?^#^^^p^ W&M $f$ ^1 w SPANISH LAWS. 261 so regulated, that though they have no contraband trade in the produce of their soil, and that, in this respect, there is no trade in the world less free than theirs ; yet affairs were so ably regulated, and the interests of all so justly balanced, that colonists, manufacturers and merchants flourished equally. It has been said at the beginning of this chap- ter, that though Spain, with absurd laws and re- gulations, and the numerous imposts which em- barrassed and ruined her colonial commerce, could neither export nor manufacture the produce of her immense colonies, still she would neither per- mit them to be exported or manufactured by themselves, nor suffer foreigners to export them, and give in exchange to the colonists those articles that they most needed. From thence resulted a contraband trade, by which that blind and oppressive government was defrauded of its duties ; a trade which kept the produce of those colonies at a wretched price, as their sale depend- ed on the uncertain arrival of a greater or less number of smuggling vessels, which were exposed to the caprices and fluctuating interests of the officers of the Spanish government, whose con- nivance they were obliged to purchase. From this proceeded the languishing state of Spanish colonial agriculture and commerce; from this also sprung the colossal fortunes acquired in two or three years, by generals, intendants and commis- sioners of customs. Spain had not imposed any land tax on her 262 FREE TRADE. colonies : the tythes which the king shared with the clergy, served in place of it. The Indians alone, paid 'a personal tax, or capitation. The revenues of the crown were composed of the local duties, collected on sales in the custom- houses, and on the transfer of lands, &c. There were also municipal customs, which were exacted on some of those objects, and served to defray the expences of the towns and commercial courts of justice, or consolados. The puertos may ores paid both kinds of duties ; in the puertos minores, the municipal duties only were paid. The duties which had been collected in a principal port were returned when the merchandize on which it was levied, was despatched to a minor port ; and vice versd, when from a minor port an exportation was made to a superior one, it was necessary previously, to pay the duty which should be levied at such principal port, had the merchan- dize been sent there direct. After the abolition of exclusive commercial companies, and the no less odious privileges of Seville and Cadiz, the distinguishing the Ame- rican into major and minor ports, is one of the most wise and beneficent regulations of the ceclula of 1778, commonly called that of free trade. The spirit of this regulation was to establish a balance between the most frequented ports, and those which were least so, in order to induce the exporters of the mother country to send con- signments to the latter. This measure had the DUTIES. 2G3 most beneficial results for the colonial agricul- ture and commerce of Spain. The major ports in the captain generalship of Caraccas, were La Guayra, Porto Cavello and Maracaybo : Curnana, Barcelona, the Island of Margarita and the Orinoco were the minor ports. Port Spain was a free port for a limited time ; that is, all nations were permitted to trade there : this privilege, granted to that colony in 1783, had given it, in 1797, an augmentation of population and prosperity, and an importance it could not otherwise have attained in a whole century. The edict of the 28th February, 1784, esta- blished a proper distinction between the duties which the various commodities should pay on importation from Spain into the colonies ; first, free goods, or productions of the soil and manu- factures of Spain : the quota of duties on impor- tation we have enumerated, amounted to ten per cent, and only affected the merchandize pro- ceeding from the soil and manufactures of Spain ; such goods were termed free articles. There was, secondly, another tariff for the produce of foreign countries, manufactured in Spain, these were called contributable articles, and which paid twelve and a half per cent. Thirdly, goods purely foreign, paid only seven per cent, on im- portation at American . ports ; but as they had paid fifteen per cent, on entering Spain, and seven on departure for America, without reckoning the 264 DUTIES. duties I have enumerated, and those of interna cion, indulto, &c. it will be seen that these duties amounted to more than forty-three per cent, on foreign merchandize. It is now time that I should present the nomen- clature of imposts levied in the Spanish colonies, by the exchequer and the custom-houses. The bulls, whose annual sale w T as one of the branches of the revenue of the crown, and of the clergy, stand first. Then come the taxes of alcavala, almoxari- fazgo, armada and armadilla, of internacion, indulto, corso, aprovechamientos ; the licences of pulperias or taverns, on the tafia and the gua- rapo, duties of aduanas, laguna, composition for lands, on letting lands, of lances, of the half annatas ; in some provinces, a part of the tythes, in others, the whole tythe ; the ecclesiastical mesadas, and royal ninths, the tax levied on the sale or change of public employments, and that on the profits on annual income of those places or employments ; the tribute or capitation tax on the Indians; stamped paper, the right of passage, the fifths of mines, the hospitalities, the salt works, confiscations, restitutions, vacant successions, va- cant majorities and minorities, the exclusive sale of tobacco, cock-fightings, the passage- boats on the river Apure : this last tax was peculiar to the government of Caraccas. Then follow the municipal duties of consulado and avaria, of cabildo and offiel executor. ^■^H ##^ DUTIES. 266 Those of my readers who may be curious to be informed of the particulars of this host of taxes, may consult the work of M. Depons ; my prin- cipal object being to give a knowledge of the duties levied on commerce, and the mode of exacting them on importation and exportation. Those duties are : 1st. Alcavala de la Mar. This duty was in the Captain Generalship of Venezuela, four per cent.* on all kinds of merchandize, in- discriminately, which entered the ports. Jt was paid on entry, and not on the depar- ture of merchandize. At Carthagena de las Indias, it was two per cent. ; at Guayaquil, three ; at Lima, six ; and at Vera Cruz, four. M. Depons says, that it produced in the provinces of Venezuela, in 1793, 150,862 * The Alcavala de la Mar is the offspring of the Alcavala de Tierra. The Cortes had granted to the kings of Spain a tax on trans- fers and sales, to assist them to maintain the war against the Moors ; this tax was called Alcavala: those monarchs afterwards esta- blished this impost in their possessions in America, towards the end of the sixteenth century. It was only two per cent, at first, but it was raised to five per cent, towards the middle of last century. It w r as levied on every thing that was sold, moveable or immoveable. All the productions of the soil, as well as those of industry, eggs, pulse, forage, &c. &c. paid the Alcavala on enter- ing the towns. Shopkeepers paid this tax by subscription. This would have produced enormous sums, if in the Spanish possessions there had been more activity in commercial affairs and less con- traband trade. The Alcavala de Tierra produced to the revenue on an average, in the provinces of Venezuela, 400,000 hard dollars. 266 DUTIES. Dullnis. dollars; in 1794, 151,408; in 1795, 105,251 ; in 1796, 130,644; and in 1797, only 10,248 dollars ; because, according to that writer, maritime commerce was in the last named year, almost entirely suspended. The true cause of the diminution of this duty was from the English having taken possession of Trini- dad in the commencement of 1797, that island became the staple of almost all the trade of Venezuela ; a commerce which was carried on with as little concealment as if Spain and Great Britain had been in the most strict alliance. Before the English had pos- sessed themselves of all the commerce of the country it produced annually 150,000 2d. Duty of Almoxarifazgo. It was levied also on all that was imported and exported ; it had been fixed at fifteen per cent, on all that was imported from Spain, at the time of the discovery of America. But it was reduced about a century ago, to three per cent, on Spanish merchandize, and fixed at seven per cent, on foreign merchandize, imported in Spanish ships. The Almoxarifazgo on ex- portation, is two per cent, on home produce, and three on foreign. Its usual annual pro- duce in the Captain Generalship of Caraecas, was 200,000 3d. The duty of Armada and Armadilla, or tax for the royal navy and the flotilla. This tax was established for aiding the expences of the navy, when it was oc- cupied in protecting the colonies against pirates ; and though those coasts have not ^M ■ m$ ^g DUTIES. been infested for more than a century, trie duty continues to be levied; it is two per cent, and rendered annually on an average, from eighty to 4th. The duty of Corso was instituted for pay- ing the maintenance of guardacostas, (reve- nue cruizers,) for preventing contraband trade : it was three percent, and rendered. . Total of the royal duties on the imports and} exports of merchandize ,.\ 2G7 Dollars. 90,000 150,000 590,000 I shall not particularize the proceeds of the other royal duties and imposts paid in the interior of the country, and enumerated in another chapter, and which amounted to, including the bulls* 1,210,000 Total amount of the royal duties and imposts in the general government of Venezuela, not including the expenses of government and of collection 1,800,000 Civic Duties. The united duties of Consulado and Average, were levied in the maritime custom-houses, and paid to the cashier of the consulado or chamber of commerce, to bear the expenses * The sale of bulls and indulgences amounted annually on an average in the provinces of Venezuela, to 180.000 dollars ; of which, one third belonged to the crown, and the other two thirds to the clergy. 268 DUTIES. Dollar*, of that court ; it was one per cent, on all that was exported to Spain, or to the other Spanish colonies, and three per cent, on all that was exported to foreign colonies, or which came from them. Beasts of burden were subject to a particular tariff. Horses and mules ex- ported paid one dollar each : oxen one per cent, according to the valuation made of them by the custom-bouse officers. New negroes brought by the British contractors, were ex- empted from all duties : they produced about 100,000 The duty of fiel executor 70,000 That of the cabildo 80,000 Total of the civic duties 250,000 All those royal and munificent duties, which amounted, as specified, to 2,050,000 dollars, were not sufficient for paying the expences of govern- ment in the captain generalship of Venezuela. The Intendant received annually about 1,200,000 dollars from the treasuries of Mexico and the kingdom of New Grenada. Thus the expences of that government amounted annually to nearly seven hundred and fifty thousand pounds ; for of all the imposts levied in that country, not a far- thing passed into the royal treasury of Spain. The natural consequence of so many prohibi- tions and duties was to retard the prosperity of the Spanish colonies, to leave them to the mercy of smugglers, and to hinder the extension of com- ^M ^M ^M COMMERCE. 269 merce and national industry. The two last kings of the late dynasty had made, it is true, some useful regulations for encouraging national indus- try, in placing considerable duties on foreign manufactures: but experience has proved that if they were dictated by patriotism, the influ- ence of the cabinet of St. James at the court of Madrid, rendered those regulations null, as far as regarded British commerce ; but they were exe- cuted with the utmost severity, to exclude from Spanish commerce the productions of the industry of other nations, and particularly those of the French manufactories. In vain had Philip V. issued several edicts, as fa- vourable to French commerce, as they were useful to that of Spain : it was in vain that this monarch, in ratifying, on the 13th March, 1713, the sixth article of the treaty of the Pyrenees, and the cedulas of Charles II. of the months of March and December, 1670, ordered that France should not only be treated among the most favoured na- tions, but that she should be distinguished en todo lo que fuera mas favorabile : it was not long before those intentions were eluded by the most strict perseverance. At length, by an edict issued at Madrid, in December, 1760, foreigners, and particularly the French, lost all the privileges in Spain: from the above period may be dated the influence of the cabinet of St. James in that country. The Duke de Choiseul endeavoured in vain to mitigate the severity of that edict, by 270 i'UiviLi;cii:s. stipulating' in the sixth article of the family com- pact that the subjects of each of the two monarchs should be treated in the territory of the other as their own subjects; that they should enjoy the same facilities of commerce, &c. there. Never did the Spanish government put this in practice with French subjects, except in circumstances when such a concession would be burthensome to them. The following were the privileges to which the French were entitled by the family compact. First, Though established and domiciled in Spain, the French never lost the rights and pre- rogatives of French citizens and subjects of His Most Catholic Majesty. Second, They were not subjected in any thing, or in any case, to Spanish jurisdiction; in com- mercial affairs they acknowledged no other judges than the consul or the commissary of commer- cial affairs of France. Third, They enjoyed every possible immunity in regard to all things necessary for the subsistence and use of their families. Fourth, They were exempted from all services, whether patrimonial or personal, from all tributes ordinary or extraordinary, and from all military services. Fifth, Their houses, shops or stores could not be searched by any Spanish judge or magistrate, of whatsoever rank, excepting in case of a criminal taken in the fact : even then it was necessary : m>: PANAMA. 571 that the search should be made by the authority and in the presence of the French consul. Sixth, They had the liberty to keep their com- mercial accounts in any language they pleased, and those books could not be searched in any case. Seventh, The merchandize which they had im- ported into Spain, and on which they had once paid the custom-house duties, might be transported into any of the provinces of the interior, and even be exported, without paying any other duties. All these fine privileges granted to the French merchants, existed only on paper! Their independence once established, the Spa- nish colonies will not, it is hoped, delay opening a trade with Japan, China and India : their coasts bordering on the Pacific Ocean, give them great advantages in such a trade, over European nations. Nine easy communications between the South Sea and the Atlantic ocean, are pointed out by M. de Humboldt in his Political Essay on New Spain. Since 1788, boats have sailed up through the Ravine of la Raspadura to Choco, by which they have passed from the Pacific Ocean into the Sea of the Antilles. * * The Editor has been informed that Mr. Arrowsmith is occu- pied in drawing the plan of a projected canal and communication between the South Pacific and Gulf of Mexico. The execution of this work will most probably be one of the first objects of a regularly established independent government in New Granada, and opens a field of highly interesting speculation both to the politicians and merchants of Europe. 272 AGRICULTURAL FRODUCP. Porto Bello and Nicaragua will be, in some years, the staples where all America bordering on the Atlantic, and probably Europe itself will go to purchase Indian merchandize. This change in that great trade, will produce one as considerable in the relative wealth and power of states, as that of the discovery of the Cape of Good Hope. The Americans themselves will take to Bengal and China the metals which they furnish to Europe for maintaining this trade. The day when com- merce shall take this new direction, and that day is not so distant as many suppose, will be that of the independence of the nations in Asia and America, not to mention those innumerable advantages which necessarily result from un- shackled commerce.* According to the informations I obtained from official statements in Venezuela, during the year 1807, the value of the agricultural produce ex- ported from the provinces which composed this fine country, exclusive of Trinidad, from 1794 until 1806, amounted to about four millions of dollars annually; but according to the docu- ments taken from the custom houses of Port Spain in Trinidad, and from those of the Islands *To those who foresee this great change I shall merely observe that the Americans of the United States have carried on the East India trade, for more than fifteen years past, with greater relative profits than the English ; those of Spanish America will have only a third of the distance to sail, and will navigate on cheaper terms. ^M IMPORTATIONS. 273 Grenada, Tobago, Curacoa, St. Thomas', and Mar- tinico, which carried on the contraband trade with the provinces of Venezuela. T am sure the smugglers carried off annually, on an average, more than 2,500,000 dollars in produce ; consist- ing of cocoa, cotton, indigo, a little cochineal, arnotto, woods for dying and cabinet makers, copper, hides, maize, salted and smoked meat and fish, oxen, horses, mules, asses, monkeys, parrots, &c. and about six or seven hundred thousand dol- lars in specie, and since 1801, a small quantity of sugar* and coffee. There were annually export- ed from these provinces to Spain and Mexico,^ about 2,000,000 dollars in colonial produce ; which increases the exportations to about 5,200,000 dollars. The official statements of the intendancy of Caraccas specified the importations into this country, including contraband trade, at only 5,500,000 dollars, at the same period ; but those statements are below the truth. On an average from 1789, to 1807, the annual importations amounted to nearly 6,500,000 dollars, including * Ten years ago there was scarcely as much sugar made as sufficed the local consumption. 1 believe I do not exaggerate when I say that, on an average, every individual poor or rich consumes at least one pound of it per day. It is mixed with almost all kinds of food and drink; and is indispensable for cho- colate, which is taken three or four times each day. t A great quantity of Venezuela cocoa, commonly called Caraica, is exported to Vera Cruz. T 274 A BISHOP A SLAVE DEALER. smuggling. Previous to the French revolution, we had half of this trade. The French mer- chants of Martinico, the Dutch of St. Eustacia and Curacoa, the Danish of St. Thomas', and the Swedish of St. Bartholomew, had their share in this commerce ; but since the Island of Trinidad was taken by the British, in 1797, they have obtained all the trade of that country, where they have established commercial connexions, even as far as the central point of South America, in Santa Fe de Bogota, capital of the kingdom of New Grenada, whose bishop, a dealer in hu- man flesh, carried on, in 1788 and 1789, the negro trade, in conjunction with the English house of Ch — t and B — u of Dominica. TRINIDAD. 270 CHAP. V. Trinidad. — Geographical Description of the Island — Guaraouns. — Their singular Mode of Living, Trade, and Habitations — Mouth* of the Orinoco. — Guarapiche. — Gulph of Paria. — Scenery. — Port Spain. — Rivers of Trinidad. — Its Bays and Harbours. — Natural Canals — Fish. — Mangrove Trees. — Birds. — The Asphaltum Lakk. Its Peculiarities. — Volcanic Remains. — Mountains. — Conjectures. — Las Cuevas. — Nature of the Soil — Excavations at Guadaloupe. — Crater of Erin — A new Metal. There is perhaps no part of the new world, which offers to the navigator, fatigued with the monotony of a sea voyage, a view at once so picturesque and imposing as the approach to Tri- nidad, placed almost at the mouth of the Orinoco, as a kind of barrier to restrain the impetuosity of its tide and currents. This island has the form of an irregular square. The Spanish geographers compare it to an ox hide : it is sixty British miles from east to west, and forty-five from north to south ; which makes a surface of about forty-two thousand two hundred square miles British. Trinidad is separated from the continent by the Gulf of Paria. The length of this gulf is about thirty marine leagues, while its greatest breadth, from north to south, is t 2 mammi 276 ORINOCO. about fifteen. The second mouth of the Orinoco, called the Canal of Pedernalos, and a great num- ber of other channels formed by a multitude of islets, almost level with the water, all in a nor- thern direction, continually discharge the waters of that line river into this gulf. Those waters flow into the ocean by two great channels, commonly called the Mouths of the Orinoco. Those isles are evidently formed by the de- posits of the river : although inundated during the rainy season, yet they are covered with palms and cocoas, which, at the same time, supply the islanders with food, drink, a bark which they weave, and wood for their furniture and canoes. The existence of the tribe of Guaraouns appears to be connected with that of the family of palms, as the fate of certain birds and butterflies depends on that of particular trees and flowers. The Guaraouns have contrived means of fix- ing their habitations on the palm trees : they choose a group of them, where the trees grow nearest to each other: at fifteen or twenty feet above high water mark they twist and weave their boughs to form a floor, which is then covered with the broad leaves. The roofs of those aerial huts are also covered with the leaves of the same tree, to which their canoes are fastened. Those Indians are in number about ten thousand : they are strong, tall and well made, less indolent than the other savages of South America, passionately fond of dancing, gay, social, and hospitable. SbHH H Wfl B I f Mtim t ■ nuwdO HHBmB GUARAOUNS. 277 They are not so reserved as the other savages their neighbours. Their soft and harmonious language is rich, when compared with those in their vicinity. The Guaraouns are expert fishers, and have dogs like those of the European shepherds, which they employ to catch fish in shallow water; they caress those animals continually, and treat them with the greatest kindness. Their trade consists in fish, nets, hammocks, and baskets : they are at peace with all the world, even with the Spanish govern- ment, which has, for a long time past, renounced the project of subjugating them. I had frequent means of observing this little nation : while among them I often thought myself existing in the days of Astrea: their society is a continual scene of peace, abundance, gaiety, and concord. I some- times regretted that old recollections, and social habits, did not permit me to settle among them, and they are the only savage tribe who ever in- spired me with that desire. The eastern mouth of the Orinoco was named the Serpent's Mouth by the great Columbus: it is about three leagues wide. In the middle, be- tween the island and the continent, is an islet of the most wild appearance, called the Soldier ; it is the resort of sea birds, of which innumerable swarms obscure the horizon at sunrise and sunset. The northern mouths or channels, called the Dragon's Mouths, are formed by four Islets, which are placed at almost equal distances be- tween the island and the continent. The Islet 278 COINCIDENCE. of Chacachacarreo forms the principal mouth, with Cape de Paria opposite. Such is the name which Columbus found given to this tongue of land, where the province of Guiana or of the Orinoco begins: this is separated from that of Cumana or New Andalusia, by the Guarapiche, which is not a branch of the Orinoco, as was for- merly supposed. This river is formed of different streams which have their sources in the mountains of Bergantin, and in the Mesas (small plains, some- what elevated) of Amana, Guanipa, andTororo, only a few leagues in a direct line from the coast of the gulf. At the place of its confluence with the Arco, this river is from forty to sixty fathoms deep. The Horquetta (the confluence of two rivers in Spanish), where the Guarapiche is so deep, is five leagues from the sea. The Arco is sixteen fathoms deep at Puerto San Juan, which is at twenty-five leagues from the ocean. Antiquaries and oriental scholars are, without doubt, surprised to find in those savage forests the word Cumana, and other words of Greek origin, before the arrival of Europeans ; also the Indian word Paria, which designates in the new world as well as Hindostan, a cast of people despised and persecuted by their neighbours. There are few places so salubrious, and yet so fertile in Southern America, as the vallies of Cape de Paria. Many tribes of Indians inhabit its coasts. Some French families took refuge there during the first storms of the revolution : a con- M LAS CUEVAS. 279 siderable number of French colonists from Trini- dad, Tobago and Grenada, have also settled in the same neighbourhood. At first the Spanish govern- ment gave them a good reception ; but the beau- tiful plantations of cocoa, coffee, cotton, and even sugar manufactories which they soon formed, tempted the jealous avarice of some local officers of the government. From 1802, various pre- tences were invented for getting rid of, and plundering them. Some were driven out and sent away from the most contemptible motives.* Ships arriving at Trinidad from the windward islands, excepting those which go from the colonies situated to the west and south of the Orinoco, to avoid being carried to leeward, first make the northern coast of the island towards the port of Las Cuevas, so named from its caves, where the sea breaks with great fury. The entry of this gulf presents scenes both varied and magnificent: to the east is that ma- jestic river, compared to which those of Europe are but as rivulets ! Its waves meeting those of the sea, and incessantly disputing the empire of the gulf: to the west appear rising from the bosom of the horizon the mountains of Cumana ; and by de- grees, on approaching the western coast of Tri- nidad, you discover numerous vallies and plains enamelled with eternal verdure. On nearing the • Among others M. Isnardi, a native of Piedmont; the same, I believe, who is now secretary to the Congress of Venezuela. 280 MONKKYS. coast, the navigator's view is charmed by aland- scape covered with various plantations, and diversi- iied by meandering rivers and rivulets which water it. A strange and sometimes grotesque medley of white, copper colour and black men, animate this scene. Whilst the numerous canoes of Caribs and Guaraouns skim the gulf in every direction, the traveller sees and hears the negroes working and singing in cadence : troops of monkeys jumping from tree to tree, and swinging them- selves while suspended from the branches by their tails:* innumerable flocks of magnificent birds enliven the scene, by the beauty and variety of their colours. The shores continually resound * Travellers have not exaggerated, when they asserted that a particular class of apes, who have a great dread of the water, when obliged to cross a stream, climb up the nearest tree to the bank, and form a chain by hanging from the tails of each other. If the river is not wide, the whole string of animals swing backward and forwards until the lowest alights on the opposite bank, when he who is uppermost slides down the tree, and they are immediately pulled over by the one to whom the post of honour had been assigned. It should be remarked that as fast as the lat- ter's companions are drawn to land, (hey assist him in dragging the others to the bank. This very singular practice, which has frequently amused me, is accompanied with howlings, cries, and grimaces, sufficient to frighten any one not accustomed to the neighbourhood of those living caricatures of our species. It is equally true that this most mischievous tribe invariably place centinels whenever they halt, particularly when employed on a foraging excursion: this fact I have ascertained to my cost. having often surprized bodies of them pillaging my fields of maize in Trinidad. Sip UAIlROUltS. 281 with the songs of some and the screeching of others : at the end of this smiling plain, rises the northern mountains, like an amphitheatre, their summits crowned with the noble trees of the tropics, above which the palm, waving its lofty head, attracts the thunder, and forces the clouds to depose their waters at its feet, from whence precipitating in cascades and torrents, they form rivulets and streams.* Thus the Gulf of Paria is formed by the wes- tern shore of Trinidad, and the opposite coast of Cumana. Ships may anchor all over the gulf, in from three to six fathom water, and on ground of gravel and mud. The principal ports of the island are, the Har- bour of Chagaramus, situated at the entrance of the northern mouths, three leagues west of Port Spain. It is capable of receiving the largest ships of war, having from four to forty fathoms depth, and a bottom of gravel and mud : its shores are bold and steep. It was in this port, the best and safest of the colony, that Rear-admiral Apodaca burnt his squadron, when that under Admiral Harvey conveying the military force commanded by Sir Ralph Abercrombie appeared off the island in 1797. The Carenage is not so good a port, not hav- ing more than from two to four fathoms, ren- * It is well known that these palms serve as eleotrical conduc- tor: 282 I'OKT SPAIN tiering it only fit for small vessels of war and merchantmen. Gaspard Grande, is an islet within the mouths, where the Spanish ships of war anchored some- times under the useless protection of a battery, placed there to defend the entrance of the mouths, and which, by its bad position, is not calculated for defence. Port Spain is situated in the western part of the island, and gives its name to the capital. Besides several quays which belong to individuals, this town has a very fine one of stone, which runs several hundred yards into the sea, and is defended by a battery. The hills which com- mand the town have been fortified by the pre- sent possessors of the island. Next to Chaga- ramus, it is the best port in Trinidad, and one of the most safe and extensive bays in the world. All the western coast of the island is a series of bays, where vessels may anchor in safety at all times. The most important place, after Port Spain, is that of Annaparima. On this ground, which in 1791, presented only a marsh and fish- ing hamlet, the English have built a fine town, where a considerable trade is carried on. The principal rivers, and which are navigable in the western part of the island, are the Caroni, Chaguanas, Barrancones, Couva, Guaracara, and Siparia. The Caroni is navigable from its mouth in the gulf, to its junction with the Aripo, which makes ^^E^l III VERS. 283 a distance of about six leagues. The Oripo is also navigable. If a canal were cut between this river and the Oropuche, which discharges itself on the eastern coast, where navigation and anchorage are very difficult, whenever the winds are northerly or eastwardly, a safe communica- tion might be established between that interest- ing part of the island, and the gulf. The fertile grounds which lie between those two rivers will remain uncultivated until this work is executed. The Guanaba, another river that flows into the Caroni, is navigable, but has less water than the Aripo. There are several other streams in the western part of the island, which being na- vigable for canoes and wherries, afford to the colonists established there, great facilities for the cultivation of their lands and the transport of their produce : they are also very abundant in fish. Though the northern and eastern coasts are well furnished with rivers, they are not equally so with ports and roadsteads. There are numerous shoals on the northern coast from Maqueribe to the mouth of the river Ellebranche : it is almost every where perpendi- cular, excepting at the openings of numerous lit- tle vallies which are irrigated by fine rivers, or rivulets of pure and crystalline water. If it be considered that the winds blow three fourths of the year from the east and north, it may be readily imagined how very precarious and diffi- cult the coasting trade is on those shores. But 284 PORTS. this is an inconvenience to which Trinidad is subject, in common with all the islands of the American archipelago. To the northward, the principal ports are Maqueribe and Las Cuevas, where Fort Abercrombie is situated. This fort, and that of Maqueribe, were defended in 1807, by batteries of twelve and twenty-four pounders, for the purpose of protecting British merchant- men against the depredations of French priva- teers. To the north-east are the ports of Rio Grande, Toco, and Cumana. At the east is Ba- landra Bay, or Boat Island ; where safe anchor- age may be found at all times for coasters that draw no more than five or six feet water. Fur- ther eastward are Guias Creek and Mayaro Bay. Guaiguaire is the safest port in the eastern part of the island, because it is sheltered by a point of land against the easterly wind, and its entrance is only exposed to the south winds, which are neither frequent nor violent on those coasts. This part of the island has very fine rivers which are navigable for small craft; the principal are, Rio Grande, Oropuche, and Nariva, or Mitan, as it is called by the Creoles, because it runs through a plain of cocoa trees, forming a forest which is one of the natural beauties of the island : it really presents an enchanting spectacle to the navigator who arrives from Europe, and has not yet witnessed the majestic state of vegeta- tion in the equinoctial regions. In running down the coast this forest presents the form of a crescent. ^^H RRKONKOUS «nOfJHAI'nV 285 During the revolutionary war of the United States, the Count d'Estaing, who always acted as the father of his seamen and soldiers, employed a boat constantly on this coast for collecting cocoa nuts, which were distributed among the ship's companies of his squadron : this wise mea- sure preserved them from the ravages of scurvy. The chronicles of the country state, that in the year 1730, a boat laden with cocoa nuts from the Guaraouns' islets was wrecked on this coast, and that the waves having thrown them on shore they gradually multiplied. Guatavo, which the French, who always man- gle the names of places, have called Ortoir river, has been improperly deemed the most consider- able of those to windward of the island, on the report of an ignorant French emigrant land sur- veyor, who, whilst he lived, enjoyed the reputation of an able engineer. He made a bad copy of the beautiful map of this island, by the unfortunate Cosmo de Churucca. The map of M , of which that of Faden is only a copy, still more incorrect, places hills where there are marshes, &c. Some of his errors were voluntary, if w T e may believe many who were deceived by them. As it is rather frequent for British speculators to purchase land in the new world on the faith of maps and plans, and that grounds in the neigh- bourhood of navigable rivers are of a considerable comparative value, some of those speculators, called land jobbers, charmed with the beauty of nnn| 286 fil'A TAVO. the river Guatavo as represented by M., ...... and Faden, bought considerable lots of it. I am certain that excepting for a few hundred yards from its mouth, the Guatavo is not navigable, unless for small boats ; yet M in the explana- tion of his map, positively says that it is navigable as far as Morne Rouge, which would be almost to its source, thus making a distance of six leagues. According to the observations of Captain Co- lumbine, one of the best hydrographers in the British navy, this river ceases to be navigable for vessels that draw more than five feet water four miles from the entrance. When that able officer surveyed the northern and eastern coasts of this island, he observed another error of a contrary kind by the land surveyor already noticed, and who had made the river Nariva much smaller than the Guatavo. Captain Columbine sailed up to its source, for seven leagues and a half inland, and found it navigable as far as three quarters of a league from its source, for vessels of two and three hundred tons. M has marked two natural canals between the rivers Nariva and Guatavo in his map, whilst in reality there exists but one. The cause of this error is, that during the heavy rains in winter, the floods create several communi- cations between these two rivers, which are on the same level. This is one of those effects that Trinidad pos- sesses in common with the neighbouring continent. ■ HBHHHM ^^> HH I H HI I Hi NATUUAL CANALS. 287 The most able geographers had treated the natu- ral canals which establish a communication be- tween the Orinoco and Amazons as a chimera. At present no one will attempt to deny the asser- tion, since M. de Humboldt has sailed from one of those rivers into the other. Before the repu- tation of that learned traveller had placed thia important fact of physical geography beyond all doubt, boats were often seen to go from San Carlos on the Rio Negro, to San Thome de An- gostura. The coast and plain of Mayaro are low and unhealthy ; but to the south, those of Guai- quaire, present a magnificent amphitheatre, and a landscape at once smiling, fertile, and salubrious. Further south is the fine river Moruga, the banks and vicinity of which abound in logwood. The shores and mouths of those rivers are full of rounded pebbles, whilst they are very rare near those on the western coast. Nevertheless, in the interior, the same rivers that discharge themselves on the western coast, have many and very handsome pebbles. I found one of them, among others, which embarrassed me extremely: it was red, having the colour of burnt brick, and is sometimes as hard. Those rivers on the eastern coast, especially that of Moruga, produce abundance of excellent oysters, which attach themselves to the stems and branches of mangrove trees. There is not another island of the new world, which, in proportion to its size, possesses so many navigable rivers as Trinidad. Amongst 288 SKA row. the variety offish on this coast, one of the most remarkable is the Squalus Zygaena : it is about twelve feet long and thick in proportion. Its eyes are large and terrifying, the head has the shape of a hammer ; its mouth and the three rows of teeth are still better adapted for biting than those of the common shark, which it greatly resembles in other respects. Another, very like the codfish, is also common, and as dangerous as the former. One day when near the mouth of the Oropiche with two engi- neers, our Indian fishermen took one which had the head of a negro in its maw. I need scarcely say that we declined tasting this prize, the Indians showed the same repugnance ; but some of the negroes who accompanied us, regaled themselves with it, and salted what they could not devour. It is, however, well flavoured, and there is a great consumption of it in the colony. The sea cow (trichecus manati) is amphibious, and often found in pairs, with their young, browz- ing out of the water on the marine plants in the plain of cocoa trees. They usually weigh from one thousand to eleven hundred pounds. It is asserted that they are found in the Orinoco of eighteen hundred pounds weight. Its flesh re- sembles that of the hog, is good for eating either fresh or salted, while its grease is used like lard. Trinidad has marshes which the Spaniards call la gun as, and the Creoles lagons, in the vicinity of the principal rivers. They produce abundance ASPHALTL'M LAKH. 289 of mangrove trees : this is the rhizophora mangle of Jaquin, the wood of which is excellent for build- ings. In the dry season these marshes become savanas, on which cattle are turned out, and where great quantities of game are found. There are also an abundance of land tortoises of various kinds, whose flesh is both delicate and nourishing. Those savanas abound in marine birds, grey par- tridges, water hens, flamingoes, and white wood- cocks, the flesh of which is as delicate as that of the European woodcock. It is difficult to form an idea of the innumerable quantities of wild ducks that frequent the rivers: they are sometimes taken in such numbers, as to be sold for fivepence each at Port Spain. I know of three species of them, without including teal. The largest re- semble the Indian duck, the second our common duck, and the third is very small with a beauti- ful plumage, including blue, rose coloured, yel- low and white, also a brilliant gold-coloured star in the forehead of about an inch in diameter : it is called Ouikiki. The most remarkable of those marshes is the asphaltum lake, which has no communication with the great lagoon as marked on some maps, This singular lake, vulgarly called the pitch lake, is about half a league in length, and the same in breadth. It is situated near the sea, and elevated eighty feet above its level. Here the coast presents a confused mixture of marly earths, (which marl is argillaceous,) im- u 290 pnr.NOMr.xA. pregnated with asphaltum. An excellent lim- pid and running water is found in the crevices of the asphaltum, as far as six feet deep, in which there is a great quantity of small fish. All these crevices called funnels, incline to a conic form. The bottoms of some are so liquid, that ivhen poles are thrust in to them they disappear. The people who inhabit the neighbourhood assured me, that having put marks on the pieces of wood thrust into the funnels, they found them again, a few days afterwards on the sea shore. I saw several pieces of wood in the lake completely changed into bitumen: in one of the funnels I found the trunk of a large tree, which perfectly retained its round shape. I caused it to be sawed ; when it was observed to be completely impreg- nated with petroleum. I have also seen the same phenomenon in the provinces of New Barcelona and Cum ana, near the Lake of Cariaco ; and various parts of those regions where the currents of the sea have formed large masses of vegetable substances. There is no phenomenon which offers more variety and mobility than the surface of the as- phaltum lake. Here are seen groups of shrubs ; there tufts of wild pine-apples and aloes. Among those shrubs and flowers, swarms of magnificent butterflies, and brilliant humming birds seek their food, enlivening a scene which, if it were de- prived of animals and vegetables, would present an exact image of Tartarus. Where an islet of \BXBBm H^HHbbS^H ■■■■■■ HHaHB^H HflMnlnMBBHIl VOLCANOES. 291 several feet diameter had been seen in the even- ing-, there is often nothing to be found the next morning but a gulf in which it has been swallowed up ; whilst on the side of it has arisen another island, that will soon be covered with vegeta- tion ! Not far from the borders of the lake, among the beautiful plantations and fine forests that sur- round it, is found petroleum mixed with the earth, which it tends greatly to fertilize. The best and finest fruits of the colony come from that district ; its pine-apples, in particular, are less fibrous, larger, more aromatic, and of a deeper golden colour than any where else. South of Cape delaBrea,is a pit or submarine volcano, which the sea causes to boil up, and discharge a considerable quantity of petroleum. In the eastern part of the island, and Bay of Mayaro, is another volcano, which in the months of March and June every year, produces some detonations, with a noise resembling that of a cannon or thunder. This noise is succeeded by flames and smoke which rise from the abyss, and some minutes afterwards the waves throw on shore pieces of bitumen, as black and brilliantas jet. By mixing this asphaltum in proper pro- portions with tallow and linseed oil, a kind of tar is made fit for caulking ships, and which has the inestimable property of preserving them from the corrosions of the sea-worm. Since 1805, the English have employed it very successfully for u 2 292 CALCAREOUS ROCKS. that purpose, The island produces sufficient to caulk thousands of ships every year. An inhabitant of the south informed me, in 1799, that some sportsmen, who lost their way in the forests of Point Icacos, assured him they had discovered a volcano behind the Renusson Planta- tion, in the midst of the lake which is in the neigh- bourhood. I employed one of those sportsmen to conduct me to the place, where we arrived after a journey of three hours. At length we reached the summit of a hill of argillaceous clay : at the top, and around this, are a great number of little mounds, one or two feet high : the tops of those cones are truncated and open ; they are so many vents which exhale a gas, smelling like sulphurated hydrogen. On the most elevated part of this hill is a cone of about six feet high, pierced from the summit to its base like the others, which continually dis- charges a whitish matter that has the taste of alum. Although a sound is heard, which indicates that the fluid is in a state of agitation, and it continu- ally evaporates globules of an elastic fluid, the scum at the orifice of the cone is cold. 1 could not touch the bottom of this pit with four poles tied together strongly at the ends, and which measured sixty feet ; having let them go suddenly, they disappeared. Though there is neither stone nor sand in the circumference of a league from it, I found plenty round the hill, as also handsome rounded pebbles VOLCANIC CRATER. 293 and small calcareous stones, to which sulphurous particles of a prismatic form adhered. After having visited this species of Solfatara, I passed over another marsh of mangroves, conti- guous to the former. Near this second marsh is another hillock : it has not so many vents as the preceding, but its top presents a circular cavity, somewhat shallow, and full of a boiling liquid, having the teste of alum. A dull and subterra- neous sound is heard, and while on the spot the earth trembled under our feet. Two poles which I drove forcibly into the crater, disappeared in an instant. Recovered from my weariness, I again visited very attentively the second hillock. Near its vents, and among the sand, I found some fine crystals of sulphate of copper, incrusted in the alum : not far from thence, returning to the shore, I found in the sand some laminated gyp- sum, the fraueneis of Werner. The colonists who inhabit the neighbourhood of this pretended volcanic crater, assured me unani- mously, that every year, in the month of March, they hear several detonations, the noise of which resembles that of a cannon at a distance. This crater is encompassed with marshes of mangroves which communicate with the sea.* * Near Carthagena, there are little cones which have openings on their tops. Those openings arc lull of water, through winch pass bubbles of azotic gas. 294 MOUNTAINS. In 1801 I discovered schistous plumbago ; near which is a mine of sea-coal, from whence petro- leum exudes to the foot of the hill occupied by the Mission of Monserrat, at a distance of about two leagues from the sea. Mountains. The Island of Trinidad has a range of moun- tains to the north, a group of hills to the south, and another in the centre, of which the most ele- vated point is called Mount Tamana, supposed to be the highest in the island. It is very difficult to penetrate through those of the centre and south, owing to the prickly palms (Mauricia aculeata,) thorns and points of other trees. There is a small lake near the top of Tamana. A sports- man assured me that its water is salt, but I do not warrant the truth of his account. During the time I resided in this island, I was never able to procure good instruments for mea- suring the heights of its mountains : yet accord- ing to some barometrical observations, which lam far from considering exact, I believe that the most elevated of the northern mountains is about three thousand feet above the level of the sea. The highest summits of the northern range are near the sea. Those mountains, as well as the coast range of Cumana, differ from the Caribbean Islands or Lesser Antilles, in many respects, par- H MOUNTAINS. 295 ticularly their form, position, the openings of their vallies, and constitutive principles. The mountains of Grenada, St. Lucia, Marti- nico, Dominica, Guadaloupe, St. Christopher, and other Caribbean Islands, which I have visited, are all situated in the centre of those islands, and their chain declines as they approach the sea. Those islands and their mountains affect a direc- tion of east and west, whilst the Apalachian run from N. N. W. to S. S. W. The nucleus of the Caribbean mountains, wherever I have been able to judge from their sides when washed bare by the sea, has appeared to be granite surmounted with prismatic basalt. The basalts of Grenada are the best characterized. There, as every where else, this rock rises in twin mountains, of which the tops are truncated. Those mountains are of an order equally superior to those of Trinidad, by their constituent principles and elevations. All these islands have volcanoes, either in activity or extinguished. It is worthy of remark that the earthquakes which were felt so violently in Guadaloupe and Antilles, on the night between the 26th and 27th of September, 1797, were not perceived either at Trinidad or in the province of Cumana ; but when, some time afterwards, violent earthquakes desolated that province, they were felt, though slightly, at Trinidad, but not in the Antilles. When, in 1799 and 1800, I formed geological comparisons between Trinidad and the Caribbean 290 M. DE HUMBOLDT. Islands, I merely intended to have ascertained the facts according to the ingenious theory of Doctor Hutton, so ably defended by the learned Playfair. But when I began to reflect independently of all system., the Antilles appeared to me as being vol- canic^ whilst Trinidad and Tobago, on the con- trary, seemed Neptunian, and more recently risen from the waters, as well as the coast mountains of Cumana, of which they are only a continuation. A treatise of M. de Humboldt, entitled " Frag- ments of a Geological Table of South America," inserted in a French periodical journal, came into my possession at Trinidad, about the end of 1806. I soon after undertook a voyage to the provinces of the Orinoco, New Andalusia and Cumana ; and having traversed those countries with M. Hum- boldt's treatise in my hand, the greater part of my ideas were changed. Every thing denotes that Trinidad and Tobago are merely an amputation of the left bank of the Orinoco, and that this separation has been caused by an irruption of the sea. The same strata of earth, the same rocks, fossils, vegetables and ani- mals arc peculiar to both regions. The chain of mountains in the north of Trini- dad runs east and west ; which is the direction of the mountains on the coast of Cumana. I have already said that the most elevated summits are those of the mountains nearest the sea : their nucleus is a very dense argillaceous schistus. This schistus becomes lamellated, and the more mmmm ■■■■■ SCHISTOUS CHAIN. 297 (Viable as it is exposed to the air. I observed that the inferior layers, and those near the beds of rivers, change to micaceous schistus. The rivers which have their sources in the northern chain, and that run towards the north, pass over beds of this schistus, in the interstices of which are found a great quantity of sulphureous pyrites in cubic chrystals. The schistous chain of Paria and Cumana, parallel to the granitic chain of the Caribbean Islands, is thus co-ordinate to the system of Pal- las, who believed he had observed that granitic are always bordered with schistous mountains. M. de Humboldt had observed long since, that there exists a certain regularity in the inclination and direction of the strata, that this inclination never depends on the exterior inequalities of the soil, and that the layers are oftenest parallel to a very distant chain of mountains. The observations of this learned man on the Andes, on the schistous mountains of Cumana, Cuba, St. Domingo and Jamaica, when compared to the direction of the Caribbean islands, properly so called, and the Apalachian, show that he saw through a most curious law of nature. The mountain of Las Cuevas is the place where the geological constitution of Trinidad can best be studied. On one of the first steps of the am- phitheatre, upon which Fort Abercrombie is situat- ed, the waves have hollowed out a kind of cavern. The stone which I detached from it at the water's 298 LAS CDEVAS. edge, is amphibolic schistus, very pure and hand- some, similar to that with which the streets of San Thome de Angostura are paved. On this basis repose the strata of argillaceous schistus on which is superimposed a layer of more than twenty feet of quartzose gravel, and at last the vegetative earth. I have often been in canoes the whole length of the coast, from Point Galera as far as Port Spain, but I never observed the hornblende schis- tus, except at the foot of the mountain of Las Cuevas and on a level with the sea. In other places there was only to be seen at the entrances of the vallies a quartzose free stone in strata, broken and heaped up in those spots most battered bv the waves. Many of these pieces of quartz contain magnetic iron. Though the sea throws a great many madrepores on the shore, they have not formed banks, at least so far as I could dis- cover. I do not think the true coral exists on this part of the South American coast. Las Cuevas with its two summits form four delightful vallies, watered by numerous rivulets. The valley at the north-east bears the name of Las Cuevas. Between the two tops is a noble plat- form, and the most singular position in the island. When you reach the summit the sea is seen both to the east and west. From this plat- form there are descents to the vallies of St. Joseph and Santa Cruz to the south-w r est, and into those of Las Cuevas and Maraccas to the ^M ^M GRANITE. 299 north-east. In those four vallies, and their mountains, the geological composition of the country may be observed with precision, because their sides are in many instances washed bare by cascades and torrents. It was on the above plat- form, ornamented with shrubby heather, that M. de la Barrere and myself found the yew tree described in a former chapter. The precipitous sides of the mountains, washed by those torrents, present in certain places layers of a coarse argile, mixed with ferruginous sand. Though granite is never seen in any part of this island, Tobago, or in the interior of the continent, from the mouth of the Orinoco to Cape de Paria, there is not a hundred paces of the spaces between the bottom of the vallies to the summit of the mountains, in which may not be found blocks of milky quartz, of different sizes, and in the cracks of which beautiful pieces of rock chrystal are not seen : indeed I never saw so much of it, in an equal space as at this place. Those scattered quartz may derive their origin either from the veins of quartz, which in all countries traverse the argillaceous schistus, or the destroyed granitic mountains. I have often made excavations under those blocks of quartz, when they were too large to be moved, and I frequently found that they concealed a light layer of sulphate of lime. No doubt that at Trinidad, Tobago, and the coast of Paria, the granite is bidden by the sea, and that it serves 300 SAINT FOND. for a basis, as in the rest of South America, to schistus and other more recent formations. It is found at various distances on the coast, in isolated rocks, between the mouth of the Ori- noco and that of the Amazons. In passing along the sea coast, going from Cedar Point to the asphaltum lake, considerable masses of pulverating feldspar are found on a rising ground, washed by the rains, near the mouth of the river Guapo, and on its left bank. This feldspar appears to be similar to that which M. Faujas de Saint Fond shows in his lectures, and which was found in the environs of Mans, on the Alencmi road. I have already said that gypsum and limestone are very rare in Trinidad and Tobago, though the great chain of the Bergantin and Guacharo is all calcareous. In Trinidad I know of only one quarry of calcareous carbonate, situated at the foot of a hill near Port Spain, on leaving the town to go to St. Joseph's ; but that rock is mixed with heterogeneous substances, among which I found veins of silex. Some quarries of pure calcareous carbonate are found in the vallies of the coast chain at Guyra, within the gulf, and sulphate of lime at Rio Carupano, in the neighbourhood of the copper mines. I believe there are some also in the hills which command the town of Cumana. It is pro- bable the soil may conceal others in places where I have not been able to discover them. H Hi VOLCANOES. 301 Reiterated and laborious researches which I made in the mountains of the north, and in the hills of the south and center, have not enabled me to discover any vestiges of organic bodies ; but I have found them in its plains, as well as in those of Tobago and in the vallies of the maritime range of Cumana. There, sea shells are intermingled and confounded with those of fresh water, and many are of unknown and extinct species. This absence of calcareous mountains, and even of considerable masses of that substance, is one of the geological characteristics by which Trinidad, Tobago, and the chain of Cumana differ essentially from the Antilles or Caribbean Islands which have calcareous rocks, and even mountains in strata, in which are found various kinds of agglomerated and petrified shells. Of all those calcareous rocks, the most remark- able and worthy of fixing the attention of natura- lists, is a bank of carbonate of lime, rather hard, on the sea shore, in the district of Moule in Gua- daloupe. This calcareous bank is on a level with the sea, and covered at high water. General Ernouf having heard that it contained human skeletons, sent towards the end of 1804, M. Gerard, a natu- ralist of Brussels, to make excavations there. He extracted a block from it, in which was found a human skeleton perfectly encrusted in the stone, and completely identified with it. I was in Guadaloupe at that period, and ordered workmen 302 PETRIFACTIONS. to dig there for my own account : I could not obtain an entire skeleton, but heads, arms, legs, and fragments of the dorsal spine. With a suf- ficient number of workmen, I might have ob- tained complete skeletons, and more accurately delineated than that of M. Gerard.* There are several parts of his skeleton, of which tb-e linea- ments cannot be clearly distinguished without the assistance of a magnifying glass. I remarked that all those anthopolites are placed east and west, according to the ancient custom of the Asiatics and Americans. By the side of the skeletons were found pestles, mortars, hatchets, clubs of a basaltic or porphyritic stone, and instruments similar to those which the savages still use. Those instru- ments are petrified. But I found no trace nor the smallest vestige of organic bodies, though there are banks of madrepores quite near them. The reader will not, I hope, accuse me of devi- ating from my subject, to notice this calcareous rock in Guadaloupe. My principal object in de- scribing the maritime range of Cumana, has been to point out the difference which exists between the geological constitution of that chain, and * One of those skeletons has been lately deposited in the British Museum, which begins to assume a degree of importance, that renders it worthy of a great nation ; and with the exception of the few facilities afforded to those who may be desirous of profiting by the library, it is certainly conducted upon a very liberal prin- ciple. — Ed. GRANITE. 303 those of the Antilles. If I have not accomplished my purpose ?o ably as might have been done by learned geologists, it will not, I trust, be denied that I am the first who observed and attempted to explain this difference. I have said that no granite is found in Trinidad, or the neighbouring countries. On the surface of the soil of this island, pebbles rounded in the rivers which run in the vallies are found ; but, arriving in the plain, there are no more of them to be seen. Those rivers have scarcely any de- scent, and run slowly across large plains of argil- laceous and vegetative earth. All that immense plain situated between the Amazons and Orinoco, known by the name of Lower Guiana, is equally destitute of stones and rounded pebbles, though it is watered by very large rivers, such as the Suri- nam, Essequibo, Demerara, &c. The modest, learned, and too little known Alexander Ander- son, of St. Vincent's, told me that he had ascended the Demerara two hundred English miles, with- out meeting a single rock or rounded pebble on its banks. The first stone which offered itself to his observation was an immense pier of granite, that forms one of the cataracts of that river. I have every reason to believe that this island has no mines of precious metals ; but the sight and the magnet discover iron in the greater part of its rocks and pebbles. All the colonists consider the gold dust mentioned by Sir Walter Raleigh as a fable. In spite of all ihe pains I took for IDHRH HHHI 304 CRATF.U ()l EUIN. ascertaining that fact, I could not discover one atom of gold, silver, orplatina, and the Spanish government searched in vain for them during two centuries. An inhabitant of Port Spain once brought me a piece of very heavy stone, which he said he had found in the river when collecting pebbles for building. It was not necessary to examine it long to discover that it was arsenic with sulphurated bary tes for matrix. I went the next day to where it was found, but all the searches I made did not procure me a bit of that metal. Though my taste for natural history induced me to make many excursions near the crater of Erin, the most painful and persevering researches there, did not enable me to discover any other metallic substance than some crystals of sulphate of copper, encrusted with alum and among flints. Yet a person in the service of government showed me a metal that he pretended to have found there, and which he supposed to be silver. I did not see this specimen in its matrix : with great diffi- culty I obtained a piece that weighed rather more than two ounces. This metal is of a very brilliant white: its specific gravity is ten: melted with gold, it deprives it of malleability and ductility, and produces the same effect on silver ; at least unless there be three parts of silver for one of this metal. It appeared to a goldsmith who made experiments on it with me, that in this proportion it did not diminish the malleability of silver. It is NEW METAL. 305 not, however, very brittle. According to the pyrometer of Wedgwood, it requires tw T o or three degrees more of heat to melt this substance than silver. M. Vauquelin, 'with whom I communicated on this subject, thinks it either a new metal or one composed of several others. 306 CLIMATE. CHAP. VI. Climate.— Seasons — Winds. — Rain. — Rarity of Storms and Hurri- canes. — State of the Thermometer. — An Experiment. — Quantity of Rain. — Inundation of the Orinoco. — Tides. — Effects of increased Cultivation. — Various Degrees of Heat. — Observations on the Effects of Climate, and Precautions recommended.— Spring or fine Season. — Remarks. — Dews. Countries situated between the tropics have only two seasons : the dry and rainy ; or the spring and winter. These two seasons are still more distinct at Trinidad than in the Antilles; for whatever may be the winds that prevail in that island, there scarcely ever falls a drop of rain during the spring. This is the name given in those regions to that part of the year which commences with the month of November, and concludes with that of April or the beginning of May. From the end of April the heat increases gradually ; the east, north-east and northerly winds become less cool; at the end of June the heat is greatest ; the storms commence, and increase in frequency until the months of August, September, and the be- ginning of October, when they occur daily, and are accompanied with torrents of rain. Nothing is >V1NI)S AND RAIN. 307 more curious for an European, than the manner in which a storm forms in this climate. The air is calm, not a zephyr agitates it ; Reaumur's ther- mometer is in the shade, at twenty -three, twenty- four, or twenty-five degrees, ascending as the atmosphere is more calm. The sky is clear, azure, and without a cloud. Suddenly there is seen forming in one part of the heavens a small grey point, which, in four or five minutes increases and becomes a large black cloud ; at first lightnings issue from this cloud; those soon become more considerable ; a minute afterwards the barometer descends suddenly one or two lines ; the thunder rolls, and in an instant a torrent of rain falls in large drops. Those showers generally last only a few minutes, seldom half an hour ; scarcely has the rain ceased, than the atmosphere remains as calm, and the sky as serene as before. It rains thus fifteen or twenty times a day during the winter, and a moment afterwards, it scarcely seems that there had been rain. There is seldom any fall of rain in the night, but a heavy shower without wind usually precedes sunrise by half an hour, during the season. I have very rarely observed in the atmosphere of Trinidad,andthe countries of the sea-coast, between the left bank of the Orinoco and the valiies of Cum ana and Caraccas, that conflict of winds and clouds so remarkable in the turbulent climate of the Antilles and the Gulf of Mexico, when, during x 2 wmamm mmm wmm 308 HEAT. the winter, the westerly winds ehacing and over- turning the inferior clouds, against their usual course, producing those gusts of wind which have so often desolated that archipelago. Hurricanes are unknown in Trinidad, Tobago, and the adja- cent continent. It is very remarkable that Grenada, the most southward of the Antilles, and only thirty leagues from the continent, is as much subject to squalls of wind as the other Antilles. It is equally sin- gular that the island of Tobago, which, like Trinidad, is situated to the east of the coast range, has never experienced a hurricane. The barometer varies, in the eastern part of the island, from twenty-seven inches ten lines to twenty-eight inches ; and in the western part, where the atmosphere is still more regular, these variations are not sure indications of fine or bad weather. However, a violent storm coming from the south or south-west, is generally an- nounced by a sudden fall of several lines. I have already said that the heat constantly increases from the end of April to the month of June, and that it remains almost stationary from that month until the middle of October, also that it begins to diminish simultaneously with the storms and rains. I made use of Farenheit's thermometer : it stood usually during that season, at Port Spain, in the morning before sunrise, at 78° to 80° ; from ^m y^r/j. $r& ^m ^m RAINY SEASON. 309 sunrise to sunset at 84° to 86° ; in the evening it generally fell to 82" ; sometimes, when the wea- ther was very stormy in the months of August and September, and the air was saturated with humi- dity, it rose as high as 90°. In the space of nine years I have seen it only twice at 93°, which was the 2d of September, 1798, and the 21st of October, 1799, days on which earthquakes were felt. When during winter there is wind with the rain during the night, the mornings are less hot, and whenever the rain is preceded by violent claps of thunder during the day, which is gene- rally the case in that season, the evenings are not so hot. When the rain is neither preceded by thunder nor followed by wind, the atmo- sphere is heavy and the heat violent. Finally, in a few leagues circumference, the heat varies seve- ral degrees, according to the elevation of the place above the level of the sea, and its exposure : this difference is especially perceptible in the spring. The hygrometrical constitution of Trinidad experiences great variations from one season to another. During the rainy season, the hygro- meter is usually between 85° and 90° ; but in the spring it remains generally between 36° and 38° in the day time, and 50° at night. There falls at Trinidad annually on an average about sixty-two inches of water during the win- ter, and about eight or nine inches in the spring, •■ 310 DEWS. including the dews'* ; for it scarcely ever rains from the end of December until the end of May. Hav- ing said that the rains diminish with the storms and the heat, from the end of October, I should add that those October rains are very gentle ; in No- vember, when the cool season begins, they become every day less frequent and more slight. From the end of December until the beginning of June, of some years, there does not fall a drop of water during the day. The old people in Trinidad assert that it rained much more previous to the year 1783, in which the draining and clearing the lands commenced. It is certain that the river San Joseph, which runs into the Caroni, w 7 as navigable thirty years ago, as far as below the town. And I, who frequented or inhabited the island for about fif- teen years, have remarked that the rivers which run towards the west, had much less water in 1806 than in 1791, whilst those of the east and * Struck with the quantity of dew that falls every night at Trinidad, in December, 1799, I placed on a plank, in my sa- vanna, fifty sponges each night, from the 2d of December to the 1st of May, 1800; every morning I wrung out the water which had been absorbed by the sponges, and I caused to be evaporated in a cucurbite what might have remained in them. I put this water in large bottles, and emptied it from time to time into the bucket which served for measuring the rain; and I believe, as did also a person who assisted me to make this experiment, how- ever clumsy it was, that the dew which had fallen in those live months, wai equal to six inches of rain. &/M#$# ^H ^H ^^H ■•#*& MOUNTAINS. .311 north appear not to be diminished ; no doubt because the clearing and cultivation have not destroyed the forests there, as in the western parts. The vicinity of the humid continent of Gui- ana explains why the falls of rain are as great at Trinidad as in Martinico, Guadaloupe, and the greater part of the Antilles, which have ra- ther large mountains in all their length, the di- rection of which seems to have been regulated according to the predominant winds, and whose pointed summits act as conductors to the atmo- spheric electricity attracting its vapours, Trini- dad, on the contrary, has a chain of mountains but little elevated, on its northern coast, a group of hills towards the center, and a chain of downs on the south-west coast. The tops of those hills are flat or rounded, though generally their sides are more steep than those of the mountains of Martinico and the Caribbean Islands. With the rainy season begins the inundation of the Orinoco, which continues increasing from the end of April to the end of August. In Septem- ber its waters are at their greatest height : it has then risen from thirty-nine to forty-one feet above its level when the waters are lowest. Its banks are covered, and the chief part of the Guaraouns islets are immersed. In October the river begins to decrease regularly, until the month of March, when its waters are at the lowest ebb ; those fluc- tuations are regular and invariable. 312 ORINOCO. " During the five months in which the increase of the river continues," says Raynal, " the hemi- sphere of the new world presents seas only, and scarcely any land to the perpendicular action of the sun's rays : during the six months following the decrease of the river, the immense continent of America alone presents itself to the same action ; the sea is then less subject to the active influence of the sun, or its movement to the eastern side is counter-balanced and interrupted in a greater degree by the land ; it ought, in consequence, to leave a greater liberty to the course of rivers, which in that case, not being so much counter- acted by the sea, can be increased only by the melting of the snow on the Southern Cordilleras, or by the rains. It is, perhaps, also the increase of the rains which determines that of the Orinoco, as Gumila, who seems to have observed this phe- nomenon, attentively supposes. When an en- lightened nation," continues Raynal, " shall have studied the shores of the Orinoco, the phenome- non of its increase will be investigated as it de- serves to be." It appears to me that this phenomenon might be explained in a most satisfactory manner. The rains are not the first and only cause of the in- crease of the Orinoco ; it increases obviously before the commencement of the rains, and the melting of the snows in the Cordilleras of Bo- gota, and the ranges of mountains proceeding from them, is no doubt the principal cause. ^H %$$$$ ^v*? wa :*" , .; , r "&.?■.. *v ^H DRY SKA SON. 313 THdes. The tides are neither very perceptible or re- gular on the coast from Cape de Paria, outside the gulf which bears that name, to Cape de la Vela. This is not the case in going from Cape de Paria towards the mouth of the Amazons. I have not been able to make observations suffici- ently exact and minute, to determine the height of the tides and their periods. Still the configura- tion of the coasts, and the resistance which they oppose to the sea, and the waters which run in the immense rivers of South America, greatly mo- dify the action of the tides. They rise to six or seven feet in the Gulf of Paria during the equi- noxes ; and in the same times, the Guarapiche may be ascended from the Horquetta as far as San Bonifacio, by aid of a tide that raises the water as much as six feet. But at San Thome de Angostura, on the Orinoco, the tide scarcely rises ten inches. M. de Humboldt depicts the dry season as a horrible time in Guiana, and the commencement of the rainy season as the regeneration of nature. His " Pictures of Nature," written with energy and eloquence, should be read in order to form an idea of the return of vegetable nature on the recurrence of the rains ; when a kind of resurrec- tion of crocodiles and monstrous reptiles seems to take place. The anxiety and ardour with which multitudes of horses, oxen, wild asses and fero- cious animals come panting from the burning 14 NOXIOUS INSECTS. desart, to quench their thirst on the return of the rains is truly singular. I have seen those animals bound and plunge into the marshes with so much avidity, and drink such a quantity of water, that from an appearance of extreme leanness, they seemed to become as it were dropsical, and died floating on the water in a few hours. The effect is, however, different in some parts of Guiana : in those which are fanned and refreshed by the sea breezes, the dry season or spring is a delightful period, while, on the contrary, the rainy season is hotter and less healthy, Such is the climate of Cayenne, Surinam, Berbice, Demerara, Essequibo, of the countries situated between this river and the Orinoco, and from the Orinoco, con- tinuing along the coast, as far as the lake or Medi- terranean of Maracaybo. Before Dutch Guiana, and Demerara were cleared, says Bolingbroke, who has given a very interesting description of those places, torrents of rain used to fall. Since cultivation has increased the seasons are more regular, and the rains less abundant. They have two wet and two dry seasons. The first take place during December, January and February, after- wards in June, July, and August. The rest of the year composes the dry seasons. In the rainy season the thermometer is in general lower than in the others. The land winds prevail, and are deemed unwholesome; musquitos fill the apart- ments and are very annoying ; to such a degree, indeed, that the planter who clears a new planta- ^^H ^M $?$$ ' s^gj^' HI RRU'A.VKS. 315 tion, is obliged to live in smoke, in order to obtain some repose at night : the sting of those insects and their buzzing are insupportable, while the remedy of the smoke is no less so. It is known that by burning camphor most insects are destroyed: it was in Sweden this experiment was first tried. Perhaps that drug ought to be substituted, or some other vapour equally destructive. The dry sea- son, says the same writer, in speaking of the colo- nies of Demerara and Essequibo, is most beau- tiful ; an azure sky continues the whole day, and at the east even from four o'clock in the morning, occasioned by a slow and gradual twilight. In the evening at six o'clock the sun sets in an in- stant, and leaves the whole country in sudden darkness. This difference, which is very striking, proceeds probably from the sun rising over the sea, where its rays traverse a humid and very cooling atmosphere, whilst, on the contrary, it sets behind high mountains, the shadow of which has defined limits. The greatest heat, which is from seven to ten o'clock in the morning, can hardly be borne : at ten o'clock the sea breeze commences, and restores nature to life : it in- creases until evening, and diminishes towards ten o'clock at night. It is in the month of August that the hurricanes begin in the West Indies, but Guiana is little exposed to that scourge ; it is there limited to a few gusts of wind, which merely overthrow some fields of plantains or bananas. Clouds accumulate 316 INSALUBRITY. to the south, thunder roars, and towards the close of the day some lightnings flash in the horizon to the south or south-westward. The length of the days is thirteen hours, and increases to fourteen. Little variation is observed during the year ; otherwise the climate presents more variety than might be supposed. During the dry season, which is considered the warmest, the thermometer, near the sea, varies from 84° to 90° of Farenheit. Twenty miles in the interior, at the hottest time of the year, it seldom passes 80°, and at night it descends to 50° or 60°. The mornings are extremely cool, and accom- panied with very heavy dews. This circumstance, joined to the stagnant waters and marshy plains, renders the interior of the country very insalu- brious to Europeans. The natives, on the con- trary, by the effect of habit, enjoy very good health, and are subject to few diseases. This climate has often been called unhealthy, but I have not found it so. In the excursions that I made by water to Essequibo and Berbice, where business veauir^d mv "ores^nce- I have been frenuentlv wetted through, even three times in twenty-four hours, and have suifered my clothes to dry on me, without experiencing any injury. It is not that I would advise new comers to repeat this experi- ment ; necessity alone obliged me to expose my- self to it, but temperance is the best preservative. It is indispensable, and ought to be recommended to all those who arrive in the West Indies, to take ■^:^^m^Wy§^0W^^W&^^00 ^if^i^sm%!^00] ^H ^m 1'RLXAUTIONS. 317 some cooling medicines, also to avoid carefully the fogs, the night air, and above all the sun, which gives a fever to those who expose themselves to it incautiously. Such are the climate and temperature of Gui- ana, or that immense tract of country situated between the Orinoco and Amazons. From the left bank of the Orinoco, as far as Cape de la Vela, (a rugged and mountainous country,) the climate is more varied, and more or less cool, according to the elevation of the places ; damp, hot and un- healthy in the narrow vallies, where there are stag- nant waters ; hot, dry and very salubrious in plains watered by rapid rivers : such is, in general, the climate of Cumana, the Egypt of South America. The climate of Trinidad differs from that of those two countries, to which it serves as a kind of limit, inasmuch as it is less moist than Guiana, and not so dry as Cumana. Being an island, the winds are more constant, and renew its atmosphere continually. The winter or rainy season begins there, as already stated, in June, and ends in October as in all the islands of the Caribbean sea. But there is very little rain, sometimes none, in June, though the return of the heat is invariable from the end of May. With November begins the delight- ful season : it is then that the east and north- easterly winds blow : those currents of air come from the cold regions of North America, probably because the laws of equilibrium require that the 318 RAINY SEASON. cold and dense air of the north should fill the place left for it by the dilation of the hot and light air of the tropics. During this spring the thermometer is usually, in the day time, at 80 degrees of Farenheit, and during the night it falls to 00°, and sometimes even to 50° in toler- ably elevated spots. There are many charming situations at Trinidad, where even during win- ter, the thermometer seldom rises in the day higher than 82°, falling to 70° in the night. Such are the hills or elevations situated at the open- ing of the vallies watered by rapid rivers, and where there is constantly a current of fresh air. The vallies of Santa Anna, of Maraval, Diego Martin, Aricagua, and the heights of St. Joseph to the north-west, as also the vallies on the north- ern coast, enjoy a very mild temperature. Those who have the advantage of inhabiting houses built on the hills, at the opening of a valley, breathe during almost the whole year a fresh, pure, and very elastic air. The effects produced by the simultaneous action of the evaporation of rains, dews and winds, is the great source of this coolness ; the animal body which perspires, and the body surrounded with aqueous vapours, whether naturally or arti- ficially, experiences a lesser degree of heat than the thermometer which neither transpires nor evaporates. For instance, when the thermometer marks 80° and even 81° of Farenheit, let dinner be served in gag Kg MSB HEALTHINESS. 319 a room well aired, the meat will be cool in an instant: when, at the same moment, if the ther- mometer be surrounded by gas imbibed with water, it will in some minutes after descend two, three, and four degrees, according to the proportion of coolness in the prevailing wind. It is according to this principle that very cold liquids are obtained by suspending the bottles in bags saturated with water, in a current of air, also by putting water into small vessels of half baked lay. It should not therefore be supposed that in the tropical climates, bodies experience the same degree of heat as in Europe, in an equal degree to what the thermometer marks. In those climates bodies transpire more freely from the above- mentioned causes, and consequently disengage a greater quantity of animal heat. I have perceiv- ed in my own person that I felt much less heat, after I had adopted the custom of wearing flannel waistcoats next my skin. The gradual perspira- tion they maintain, and the coolness produced by that perspiration, are some of the surest means of preserving health in a climate, of which Euro- peans who have not resided in it form very false notions. There is no country in the world which presents a more healthy old age than the Antilles, or any that is more exempt from gout, sciatica, loss of senses or the faculties, together with the dismal train of physical evils incident to cold climates. 320 THE STARS. Dews. The abundant dews which fall every night in Trinidad, are the pri ncipal cause of the great variations in the hygrometer. A part of them is, no doubt, produced by the waters of the island and the surrounding sea ; but it is the adja- cent continent of Guiana, its marshes, and great rivers, which refresh the island with these abun- dant dews. Trinidad is generally without rain? from December until the end of June. Still, during that season, the vegetables are every morn- ing soaked with water, as if there had been re- freshing rain. Without this beneficent dew, the island would be sterile, and its climate excessively hot. The ground, which is found in constant effervescence, communicates a vigour to vegeta- tion, raises large trees to a great height, and gives them a luxuriancy of which no description can afford a just idea to the European who has not visited those regions. The most beautiful part of the southern celes- tial hemisphere, which comprehends the Centaur, Argo, and Cross, is always hidden from the in- habitants of Europe. It is only under the equator that the magnificent spectacle is to be enjoyed, of seeing at the same time all the stars of the two celestial hemispheres. Some of our northern constellations, such as the Great and Little Bear, on account of their depth in the horizon, a ppear of an astonishing size. ^^^^^B SKK Tin OF TRIM DAD. 321 CHAP. VII. Historical Sketch of Trinidad. — Its Discovery. — First Establishment of the Spaniards — Sir Walter Raleigh's Visit to the Island. — His Treaty with the Indians, and Attack on San Joseph. — Eulogium on the Soil and Climate of Venezuela. — Blind Policy of Spain. — Pro- ject of M. de Saint Laurent. — Change in the Island's Condition. — Rapid Increase of its Population. — Don Joseph Chacon — His Po- licy. — Port Spain. — French Refugees. — Inhabitants in 1797. — First Sugar Plantation. — Capture of the Island by Sir Ralph Abercrom- bie. — Progressive State of Population, Agriculture, and Commerce between 1783 and 1807. The Island of Trinidad was discovered by Christopher Columbus, on the 31st July, 1498, and during his third voyage to the new world. According to some historians he gave it the name of Trinidad, whilst he was yet distant thir- teen leagues to the south-east of it, from the three tops of mountains which are seen in that situation at sea; and according to Herrera he named it thus in honour of the Holy Trinity. Nevertheless this island did not fix the atten- tion of the Spaniards until the close of the six- teenth century, if an historical monument pre- served in the church of St. Josef de Oruna may be believed. According to this chronicle, it ap- pears that they preceded their establishment in the 322 RALEIGH. commencement of the year 1588, by the almost general destruction of the Indians. Most of those who escaped the proscription, found a slower and more horrible fate in the works of the mines. Some, however, owed their lives to the paternal and courageous care of the apostle of the new world, the virtuous Las Casas. The labours of the Indians soon fertilized the land of which they had been masters for the benefit of their conquerors. Some negroes were afterwards taken there, and united in the work of the natives. Sir Walter Raleigh, who visited Trinidad when attracted by the chimera of El Dorado in 1593, relates that the inhabitants then cultivated excel- lent tobacco and the sugar cane. The Spaniards assured him, that the rivers were full of gold dust.* * It seems that Raleigh, who in common with all the histo- rians of his day was fond of the marvellous, believed in the absurd fable of El Dorado, and perhaps ashamed of being laughed at on his return, he was determined to present the government and people of England with some story, which should give a colour of pro- bability to the existence of such a place, hence the wonders related about the capital of Guyana. " The empire of Guyana," observes Sir Walter, " is directly to the eastward of Peru towards the sea : it is situated under the equinoctial line, and possesses more gold than any part of Peru. It has more great cities than Peru ever had in its most flourish- ing state. This country is governed by the same laws: the emperor and the people profess the same religion; the same police and form of government which were observed in Peru, without any difference whatever. Such of the Spaniards as have tf^0^^0f0^^0^^. WM*£ ■1 CAPTAIN nUDI.KY. 323 On his ret urn to Trinidad from exploring the Orinoco, Sir Walter Raleigh made a treaty with the savages, who were then mortal enemies of the seen Alanoa, the capital city of Guyana, which the Spaniards rail El Dorado, assert that, by size, riches and admirable situation, it surpasses all the cities in the world, known to the Spanish nation. It is built in a lake of salt-water, of about two hundred leagues in length, very similar to the Caspian sea: if we compare this capital to that of Peru, and refer, in regard to the latter, to the accounts of Francisco Lopez and others, this recital appears to us very probable." The picture drawn by Captain Dudley, who ascended the Orinoco still higher than his companions, is no less flattering, though perhaps infinitely nearer the truth. " On climbing the hills nearest the banks," says he, " we contemplated that asto- nishing mass of waters which falls into the Caroni, and observed how it divides itself into three portions at more than twenty miles distance. Ten or twelve falls presented themselves one above the other, each the height of a steeple, dashing and dispersing, by the breaking of the waters, a thin rain around, which we at first mistook for the smoke of a great city. " I have never seen a more beautiful country, or views so picturesque: hills rose from the bosoms of vallies ; the river meandered over the plain in many branches. There were to be seen vast plains free from woods, a green and thick grass, a soil of firm sand convenient for walking on foot, or riding ; deer run- ning along the paths under our eyes ; the birds towards evening tilling the air wit!) their various warblings ; storks and herons, some white, and others crimson or scarlet, wandered over the banks of the river ; the air was refreshed by the blowing of the easterly wind. Every pebbie that we picked up, appeared to promise us, by its colour, mines of gold and silver." (See Hak- luyl's Collection, Vol. HI. Quarto Edition.) The foregoing picture is by no means exaggerated, according to all the accounts received from those who have lately proceeded to San Thome de Angostura by water. -- -El). y 2 324 BEAUTY OF CMMATE, Spaniards, and marched with them against the town of St. Josef, which was the seat of govern- ment. He took the fort by assault, put the gar- rison of thirty men to the sword, and made a prisoner of Berreo, the governor, who he repre- sents as a man of noble birth, but detested by the Indians. But that which is neither fabulous or romantic, is the beauty of the climate, its fine rivers, and enchanting situations ; a gigantic and magnifi- cent vegetation, compared to which the largest trees in Europe would appear stunted shrubs, and our most beautiful flowers seem languishing and faded ; that earth so fruitful, where the children of nature gather without labour the most succu- lent and nourishing roots and exquisite fruits, whilst the forests, rivers and sea present them with abundant and solid food. Such is the true natural riches of nearly all the country situated between the Amazons and Orinoco, also of Trinidad, which is the same in miniature. The Jesuit Gumilla pretends, it is true, that the land had become sterile, since the inhabitants refused to pay tythes. But, fortunately, that sterility never existed, except in the imagination of the Jesuit ; and those who have written on this island after him, speak with delight of the fertility of its soil, its forests of palm, cocoa-nut and cocoa trees, of its hedges of citrons and lemons. Its beautiful sky, added to the fecun- dity of the soil, has justly obtained for it the name of the Indian Paradise. ^H SAINT LAURENT. 325 The neglect of the mother country was more fatal to the colony than the anger of the monks. Either the Spanish government did not know the value of this possession, or affairs of greater importance occupied its attention, for it paid none whatever to this island. Its population and trade were almost extinguished. In short, about thirty years ago, the colony only contained a few hundred inhabitants, Creoles, Mulattos, and In- dians. All its trade consisted in barters of cocoa and indigo for coarse cloths and implements of agriculture, which were brought to it by the smugglers of St. Eustatia. When circumstances caused it to rise from this state of languor, in 1783, a planter named Saint Laurent, who re- sided in Grenada, visited Trinidad from a taste for natural history, and perhaps also from his restless and enterprizing disposition. If the fer- tility of the soil, the abundance and variety of the vegetables of the island charmed him, he was no less struck with the political importance of its situation, which, by means of a few troops might secure to its possessor the exclusive trade of the vast territory bordering on the Orinoco. Full of this idea, and of the hope of making a large fortune, Saint Laurent resolved to en- lighten the Spanish government as to its true interests. He went to Madrid in consequence, saw the ministers, and succeeded in fixing their attention on Trinidad. It must, however, be allowed, that the political events of which the :m WlStl ULfcLLATlONK. new world had recently been the theatre, contri- buted not a little to the success of his project. The revolution in North America, terminating in a glorious peace, had given a dreadful lesson to parent states. They feared that other colo- nies would imitate that example ; and those fears were felt, above all, by the court of Madrid, whose colonial system was a masterpiece of tyranny and oppression. However it might have been, the Council of Indies occupied itself seriously with the plans of Saint Laurent ; it relieved the colonies from several obstacles which embarrassed their agri- culture and commerce ; and Trinidad, so long neglected by the government, was treated like a favourite child. An edict issued from that council in 1783, per- mitted all foreigners professing the Roman Ca- tholic religion, to establish themselves in this colony. It protected at the same time, for a period of five years, those new inhabitants from debts contracted in the countries they had quit- ted. It invited, in short, all the traders and navi- gators of the nations which were at peace with Spain, to frequent the island, placing but a few restrictions on its commerce, which could be easily eluded. Saint Laurent visited the principal commercial cities of France and Spain at his own expence, to induce the merchants to make advances to the colonists of Trinidad. He even persuaded many POPULATION. :m persons who led the most inactive lives at Bour- deaux and Paris, to emigrate to that island with their property, and nearly all those who followed his advice, have become wealthy proprietors. Spain was not long in reaping the fruits of this wise measure. Crowds of new colonists were soon seen coming from Europe and the British and French possessions, thus bringing their industry and capitals, also a great number of agents, who, after having dilapidated the plantations they had directed, came to enjoy in this island the fruits of their rapine, by favour of the edict which guaran- teed them against any process for five years. It should be remarked that this decree, contrary to the laws of nations, was religiously maintained by the court of Madrid, in spite of the remon- strances and complaints of the British government in 1791. The inhabitants increased so rapidly, that six years after the publication of the above edict, there were reckoned in this colony two thousand one hundred and fifty-one whites, four thousand four hundred and sixty-seven people of colour, ten thousand one hundred negroes, and two thousand two hundred Indians, which form a total of eighteen thousand six hundred and twenty-seven inhabitants, an unexampled instance of such a pro- digious increase in so short a space of time in America. Still it may be easily conceived that this mix- ture of people of all nations and colours, contain- 328 A GOVERNOR. ed the germs of the vilest passions. It was highly necessary that there should be a firm and enlightened government to repress so many im- moral beings, and oblige them to contribute to the prosperity of the colony. Spain found a fit person in Don Josef Chacon, a naval captain, who was appointed governor of the island, a short time after the edict was issued, from which its colonization may be dated. Endowed with more cunning and prudence, than firmness, he joined experience to a complete knowledge of government, and a refined taste for the arts and sciences. The new governor employed his talents with success to fulfil the duties of his office, giving a political and commer- cial importance to this country, worthy of its geo- graphical position. Having succeeded in preventing the establish- ment of the Inquisition in his colony, and sending the monks out of it, in consequence of their disso- lute manners and intolerant spirit, which had hin- dered great numbers from settling in the island, Chacon placed Don Josef Angeles, at the head of his clergy, an enlightened and liberal ecclesiastic, who died of grief, in 1807, a victim to the re- venge of his enemies. Foreigners who visited Trinidad, met the most flattering reception from Chacon : he even took upon himself to give more liberty to commerce than was granted in the edict; and the merchants found both freedom and safety for their specula- BBBBB1 BIBBHW I BB mKH Bfl ■ INGRATITUDE. 329 tions under his government. The new colonists received grants of fertile lands, and the governor made them advances from the royal treasure to purchase cattle and implements of husbandry. This distinguished character, the founder of a colony, was lately a memorable instance of the ingratitude of mankind. He lived in poverty, and on the benefactions of a friend, at an obscure village in Spain ; and, strange fatality ! sacrificed to the fanatical hatred of some French anarchists, whom he had formerly enriched by his bounty !! The encouragements granted to commerce and agriculture, soon changed the face of the island ; and where a short time before only some miser- able huts of fishermen, covered with palm leaves were seen, there arose in the short space of four years, a town regularly built, which by the size and convenience of its port, and the industry of its inhabitants, became one of the most com- mercial in the new world, justly meriting the name of Port Spain from the mother country. On the other hand, the disturbances which broke out in the French colonies, at the beginning of the revolution, and the violence of various parties, alternately conquerors and conquered, brought a great number of proprietors from Mar- tinico, Guadaloupe and Saint Lucia to this island, as also many of the ancient French inhabitants of Grenada and Tobago. Don Josef Chacon took advantage of those events to people his colony : he received with 330 SUGAR PLANTATION. equal attention all those who brought either capital or industry, without troubling himself about their opinions. Thus, in 1796 and 1797, in consequence of those revolutions which faction alone can explain, this colony presented a mixture of persons of all parties, whose exaggerated prin- ciples had clashed reciprocally, and caused their ruin. He who sees with contempt and pity the chimeras for which men destroy each other, will contemplate with satisfaction this community of persons, once ready for mutual immolation, living peaceably under a government that protected them all equally ; cementing their union by socie- ties of agriculture or commerce, intermarriages, and giving themselves up with ardour to every branch of industry. All those causes combined, soon carried the colony to the highest degree of prosperity. In 1787, M. de la Perouse established the first sugar plantation, which was the source of a bril- liant fortune for him, and a laudable object of emulation to the other colonists. In 1797, there were one hundred and fifty-nine sugar plantations; of which three had water-mills, one with a wind- mill, and a hundred and fifty-five with mills worked by mules, a hundred and thirty coffee farms, a hundred of cotton, and about sixty with cocoa. There were, besides, some small plantations, the masters of which being poor, but active, occu- pied themselves in the cultivation of bananas, manioc, yams, sweet potatoes, maize, &c. articles A ttUAVL ADMIKAJ,. 331 of great consumption for the country, and the people employed by the great planters, who were wholly engaged in the growth of those commo- dities destined for the European markets. Such was the prosperous state of this island, in 1795; when the contentions in Europe, so disas- trous for the French colonies, where they were felt more or less calamitously, occasioned an augmentation of prosperity to Trinidad. On the 16th of February, 1797, a British squa- dron of four sail of the line, under the orders of Admiral Harvey appeared off the island. The Spanish Rear-admiral Apodaca w T as anchored at Chagaramus with three superb ships of the line, (one of which was a three-decker,) and a forty gun frigate. As soon as he saw the British ships, he set fire to his own, and gallantly retreated to Port Spain, reciting his rosary, and accompanied by a band of priests who followed his example. Arrived at the governor's with his chaplet of beads in his hand : " well, admiral, all is lost, asyou have burnt your ships," said Chacon to him. " No, all is not lost," replied the noble admiral ; " I have saved the image of San Jago of Campostella, the patron of my ship and myself," taking from his pocket an image of that saint ! General Sir Ralph Abercrombie landed with four thousand men, marched to Port Spain, fired a few discharges of cannon, and after a short con- ference the governor capitulated. 332 POPULATION, t&C. Progressive State of the Population, Agriculture, and Commerce of Trinidad, from 1783 to 1807. I have said in another page of this chapter, that previous to the decree of ] 783, the island only contained a few hundred inhabitants, Cre- oles, Mulattos, Indians, and Negroes. This popu- lation was no more in J 783, than 126 whites, 295 of colour, free, 310 slaves, and 2032 Indians of all ages. Total, 2,763. Seven years after the edict, in 1790, a new population had formed, of fraudulent bankrupts, and dishonest agents, as well as a small number of estimable families from the French and Eng- lish colonies, and even European French fami- lies, some of whom were of distinguished birth. The troubles which at this period, 1790, began to desolate the French colonies, contributed to the prosperity of Trinidad, and soon gave it a respectable population. It is principally com- posed of French colonists, ruined by those trou- bles, the chief part of them having brought no- thing but their industry, and a verv small num- ber some wreck of their property. From 1790 to 1797, they increased the population from 10,422 to 18,627 inhabitants.* In the year pre- * The official statements of the population published by the British government, in 179T, amount only to 17,718 inhabitants; because they were made immediately after an emigration caused by the conquest of the island. $Hf AGRICULTURE. 333 ceding its capture, the following produce was collected : On 159 sugar plantations, 7,800 hogsheads. On 130 coffee plantations, 330,000 pounds. On 60 cocoa plantations, 96,000 pounds. On 103 cotton plantations, 224,000 pounds. The tonnage of the shipping employed in this trade, as also in the contraband which the adja- cent continent carried on with the island, had been, on an average, from 1784 to 1797, from 7,500 to 8,000 tons. If it be considered that previous to 1783, the population was only 2,763 individuals, of whom 2,032 were Indians, who never work, except to provide for their greatest wants ; that the obsta- cles and absurd regulations before the epoch of the edict paralized the commerce of the Spanish colonies ; that before the year 1783, a Dutch house of St. Eustatia carried on all the commerce of the colony, with a vessel of about a hundred and fifty tons, that it sent there two or three times in the year, and which was sufficient for taking all the articles they required to the inhabitants, and for which they gave in payment a small portion of cocoa, vanilla, indigo, arnotto, cotton and maize. When it is also recollected that the first sugar plantation was established therein 1787, an idea may be formed of the prodigious increase of this colony, under the prudent government of Don 33 COMMKRCi:. Joseph Chacon, in the short space of time com- prised between 1783 and 1797, when all the new colonists had made fortunes more or less considerable. From the conquest of the island, in February, 1797, until the peace of Amiens, in 1802, the population had increased from 18,627 to 24,239 inhabitants, and the cultivation as follows : On 192 sugar plantations, 15,461 hogsheads. On 128 coffee plantations, 358,660 pounds. On 57 cocoa plantations, 97,000 pounds. On 101 cotton plantations, 263,000 pounds. Thus it is seen that in the space of five years the cultivation of sugar had almost doubled. There may also be observed a small augmenta- tion in the produce of coffee, cocoa, and cotton, but two coffee, three cocoa and two cotton plan- tations less : it was because the proprietors of those plantations had found it more profitable to change them into sugar plantations. In 1802, the tonnage of sixty vessels employed in the commerce of Trinidad, was about fifteen thousand tons. I suspect that the contraband trade formed about two thirds of this commerce ; leaving a third of the whole tonnage employed in the trade of the island, five thousand tons. Now, the tonnage in 1783, being only one hundred and fifty tons, and having increased in 1802, to five thousand tons, it is evident that the produce and resources of the colony had increased SSI PRODUCTIONS, 335 in the proportion of 1 to 33 f ; and that the popu- lation in the same time was augmented in the proportion of 1 to 8{. The emigration which took place from St. Do- mingo and the British colonies to Trinidad, after the peace of Amiens, had increased its population, in 1807, to thirty-one thousand inhabitants, amongst whom were reckoned twenty-one thou- sand slaves. There were then two hundred and fourteen sugar plantations, of which nearly one half made scarcely fifty thousand pounds of sugar each, from want of hands ; but there were many that made from two to three hundred thousand pounds each The total quantity of sugar ex- ported that year from the colony to England, Nova Scotia, Canada, and the United States, amounted to 18,235 hogsheads, or 21,234,600 pounds. There were made besides, in the same year, 1807, 460,000 gallons of rum, 100,000 gallons of syrup/-)- 500,000 pounds of coffee, 355,000 pounds of cocoa, and 800,000 pounds of cotton. Previous to the rupture of the treaty of Amiens, there were grown annually, on an average, from 1,500,000 to 1,600,000 pounds of cotton. But the ruin of the * The hogsheads which were used in 1802, weighed only about 1200 lbs. each ; since then they have been made to contain from 1400 to 1500 each. t Those syrups are exported to the United States and Carada where they are distilled into rum. 330 COMMKKCC. British manufactures having lowered two thirds, and even three fourths, the price of this article, a great number of colonists abandoned the cultiva- tion of it, so much so that in 1810, there were scarcely G42,000 pounds gathered. In 1809, there were only 8,000,000 pounds of sugar made, and in 1810, only 4,590,000 pounds. If it be observed, that this article is worth only twelve shillings and sixpence per quin- tal of one hundred and fifty pounds in the British colonies, and that the colonist buys all articles which are taken to him from Europe or the United States, at double the price he could before the peace of Amiens, some notion may be formed of the deplorable state to which a mistaken policy has reduced the proprietors. Between the years 1797 and 1802, the British merchants of Trinidad sold annually on an ave- rage, to the amount of a million sterling of their merchandize, to the smugglers of Venezuela, for which the latter paid partly in dollars, and partly in articles on which the English trader gained cent, per cent. I cannot pass by in silence an extract from the Voyage of M c Cullum, which I have lately read in a compilation by Malte Brun, and another work, the Voyage of M. Ledru. The statements of the population and produce of Trinidad, are extremely incorrect. They say, for instance, that in 1799, there were 2,672,800 pounds of sugar made in Trinidad ; whilst there were really made GENERAL PIOTOX. ,337 in that year nearly 19,000,000 lbs. The state- ments of M c Cullum are equally incorrect in regard to the other articles, but those of the popu- lation less so : he has, however, omitted the In- dians in his statement of population for the year 1797. The work which bears the title of the Voyage of M c Cullum, is merely a severe philippic against General Picton; but he had enough to say, with- out imputing to him, as he has done, imaginary crimes. He ought not, above all, to have slan- dered estimable and peaceable men, who respected the authority of the governor ; nor represent as innocent victims some disturbers of the public peace, and rascally scribes, of whom Picton purged the colony. The Indian population has been constantly de- creasing since the conquest of the island by the British government. In 1797 there were reckoned 2,200 indigenous natives, and scarcely 1467 in 1807. Some had died of drunkenness and vexation, others had fled to the Spanish continent, to with- draw themselves and their wives from the bruta- lity of the infamous W. T. the commandant at Toco. Though the population in Trinidad had in- creased above 500, from 1802 to 1807, only nine new sugar plantations were formed in that time. This increase of the population has been chiefly in negroes, who have augmented the hands ^employed in cultivation. That of cocoa has re- 338 COFFEE TREES. mained stationary, while coffee has retrograded from two causes : first, the want of sale in the British markets ; secondly, because the coffee plant has not succeeded in Trinidad, the tree giving but little fruit, and perishing at the end of ten or twelve years, though the article is always of a superior quality, and has the advantage over that of Martinico and the other Antilles of not requiring age to produce an agreeable bever- age. It is from the fault, and obstinate attach- ment to old habits of the planters, that this culti- vation has not been more successful in Trinidad. Because coffee trees thrive in St. Domingo, Gua- daloupe, Dominica, St. Lucia and Martinico, on the hills, they had concluded that it would be the same in Trinidad ; without noticing that the hills of this island are composed only of schistus covered with gravel, on which lies a light layer of vegeta- tive earth, that the rain washes away after some years of cultivation ; whilst the hills of the Antil- les, much more high and cool, are covered with a deep bed of earth, which is retained by enormous blocks of stone, that at the same time maintain humidity and freshness. Messrs. Beaubrun of Tacarigua, worthy and intelligent planters, some years ago invented the plan of planting coffee trees on the plain, in the manner cocoa trees are planted, that is, in the shade of the erythrina; and this mode of cultiva- tion has perfectly succeeded. My venerable friend, Don Juan Martin de Arestimuno of Ca- STEAM-ENGINE. 339 riaco, adopted this mode also, and was equally for- tunate. It is to be hoped that their success will en- courage the cultivation of this valuable plant in the united provinces of Venezuela and in those parts of Trinidad, which were deemed unfavourable to it, from the too great dryness of the climate. Those expert agriculturalists conceived the same idea, without having had any communication respecting it. The mountainous portion of Trinidad, which cannot be cultivated, forms only a thirtieth part of the island; an advantage it possesses over all the Antilles, of which the chief part consists in precipitous mountains, defiles, and passes, where the labour and cartage would absorb the produce of cultivation. It results from the measurement made in 1799, in Trinidad, by order of the Britislr government, that there may be formed on its ter- ritory, 1,313 sugar, 945 coffee, 304 cocoa, and 158 cotton plantations of 100 squares, or 320 English acres each. If it should ever arrive to that high degree of cultivation, its soil being at least as fertile as that of Saint Domingo, it will produce more than the French part of that island previous to the revolution ! I ought not to omit here that the use of the steam engine, by Messrs. Bolton and Watts, of Birming- ham, was introduced into Trinidad, in 1804. It has replaced the cattle mills on some plantation?. This machine is preferable to windmills, which cannot work at all times, and it is less expensive ; z2 340 SIR S. LUSIIINGTON. the water mills alone being preferable to it. The engine alluded to, is said to have the power of sixteen horses, and perforins, in a given time, the work of three oxen or mule mills on a sugar planta- tion. It is well known what an immense number of those animals are destroyed annually in the colonies ; the introduction of this machine in the manufactory of sugar, is therefore a very great improvement, as well as saving in colonial agricul- ture. Sir Stephen Lushington, who has a verv large property in this island, had the honour of being the first to employ it there, in contempt of the outcry raised against it by the vulgar pre- judices of others. TOBAGO. 341 CHAP. VIII. Tobago. — Historical Sketch of the Island — Its Discovery and original Inhabitants. — First Establishment of the Dutch there. — The Lamp- sins — Ceded to the Duke of Courland by James I. — Manifesto of Charles I. in favour of the Duke. — The Island is attacked by Sir Tobias Bridges, and the French Admiral d'Estrees. — Captain Pointz- — Tobago is ceded to Great Britain. — Treaty of Aix la Chapelle. — State of the Island in 1765. — Messrs. Franklyn andRobley — Taken by the French in 1781.— Reflections. — Recaptured by General Cuy- ler in 1793. — Present State of Cultivation. — Mr. Robley's Plantation and Establishment. — His numerous Improvements and Character.— Scotch Emigrants — Reflections. — Natural Productions of the Island. Plants. — Birds. — Fish — Quadrupeds — Scarborough. — Currents, &c. When Columbus discovered the new world, the Island of Tobago, of which I am not aware that the Carib title has been transmitted to us by any historian, received the above name from him, or that of Tobacco ; which the islanders gave to the pipe they used for smoking the herb, so well known in after times, but then called kohiba. This herb and the pipe bore the same name at the other extremity of the Carib Archipelago, in Hayti or St. Domingo. Tobago was inhabited by a people who were generally at war with the Arrooaks. Contemporary historians call them 342 FIRST SETTLORS. Caribs; but I am inclined to doubt whether they belong to that nation, because the Arrooaks, with whom they were at war, are real Caribs : it appears also that the writers of those days, from being badly informed, confounded all the insular aboriginal inhabitants under the name of Caribs, However it may have been, those who inhabited the island first named Tobago, and some years afterwards New Walcheren, not be- ing able to resist the Arrooaks, retired to that of St. Vincent, then inhabited by Indians with whom they lived in peace. Tobago having become desart by the emigra- tion of the savages, some Dutch navigators, who had visited it on their return from the Brazils, delighted with the beauty of its climate, richness of soil, and its convenient neighbourhood to the continent, induced a company of Flushing traders to form an establishment there. In that age of enterprise, 1G32, they had no difficulty in finding two hundred persons, whom they conveyed there, to lay the foundations of the colony. Those adven- turers gave it the name of New Walcheren, in honour of an island in the province of Zealand, on which the town of Flushing is situated. The Indians of Trinidad, in alliance with the Spanish colonists of that island, attacked this establishment, in 1634, before the settlers had time to finish a fort they had begun. All who fell into the hands of the conquerors were mas- sacred at the br:rinnin.'r of the invasion : after " ■oMSH I'll I. LAMPSINS. 343 which they demolished the fortress, carried off the canon, destroyed the plantations, and con- ducted all the colonists whom they could seize as prisoners to Trinidad. Those of the settlers who escaped death or captivity, retired to Holland, after which Tobago remained desart during- more than twenty years, being in all that time merely frequented by some seamen from Martinique and Guadaloupe, who resorted there to fish for turtle ; also by the Indians of St. Vincent, and the other Antilles, who touched there when they went on expeditions against their perpetual enemies, the Arrooaks of the Orinoco. In 1654, some merchants of Flushing, named Lampsins, obtained a charter from the States of the United Provinces, by which they were permit- ted to take possession of the island, and cultivate it for their own advantage. This charter conferred on them the privilege of appointing the magistrates and governor of the colony, with the sole restric- tion that the nomination of the latter should be submitted for approval to the States General. Those celebrated merchants did not confine their operations to the forming of agricultural establishments ; they constructed stores at New Walcheren, which w T ere provided with every kind of European merchandize ; and as at that time the English and French were not so much devoted to commerce as they have since been, it became a depository where the colonists of the neighbour- 344 DUKE OF COURLAND. ing islands belonging to those two nations, even the Spaniards of Trinidad and the southern con- tinent, went to furnish themselves with the mer- chandize they required. The first colonial estab- lishment at St. Martin's, one of the Virgin Islands, was also established by the Lampsins. James I. of England by what right is unknown, conceded this island to his godson James Duke of Courland. A vessel carrying out Courland colonists, ar- rived there some months afterwards. The cap- tain landed his people at a place known at this day by the name of Courland Bay, which is the chief settlement in one of the most beautiful parts of the island. The Dutch did not at first oppose the establishment of their rivals, who, according to the English historians, were to the number of a hundred families, and of only a hundred persons according to the Dutch accounts. But a few days after the arrival of the new colonists, there was a skirmish between the two parties, which was followed by a treaty, in which they agreed to live peaceably, until their respective sovereigns should agree on their rights to the possession of the island. But the Courlanders not receiving either recruits, or any of those succours so necessary for a young colony, and the Dutch portion of the island being considerably increased by fresh settlers and assistance of every kind, which the Lampsins continually sent out, together with the latter having learned, in 1659, that the Duke of ^H \W£-*£ vw?-' ■ TOBAGO INVADED. 345 Courland had been dispossessed of his territories by the King of Sweden, and imprisoned, they forced the Courlanders to deliver Fort James to them which they had built in Courland Bay. Having* recovered his states by the treaty of Oliva, the Duke of Courland demanded the restitution of his establishment in Tobago from the States General ; and on their refusal, he ap- plied to Charles II. who, being on the point of declaring war against Holland, published a mani- festo in favour of the Duke, dated November 17th, 1664. The States General paid very little attention to the King of England's declaration, and war having commenced soon afterwards between those two powers, the Duke deferred to a more convenient opportunity, his projects on the island. There was no mention of Tobago at the treaty of Breda, and Cornelius Lampsins still remained for some years peaceable possessor. In the inter- val betwen the first and second war between England and Holland, the Governor, Hubert de Beveren, placed the Forts of Lampsinsberg and James, as well as those of Beveren and Belviste in a respectable state. The population being augmented to twelve hundred inhabitants, the colonists prospered, and believed themselves in safety, when Sir Tobias Bridges, the com- mander of the Barbadian privateers, attack- ed them unawares, pillaged and sacked the 34C 1> tiSTRKES. colony, carrying off a great number of ne- groes. A separate peace having been concluded in 1675, between Great Britain and the Stales General, these two powers mutually restored the conquests made from each other; the Dutch hav- ing declared war against France, and committed hostilities against the colony of Cayenne, the Duke d'Estrees went to attack the squadron of the Dutch Admiral Binkes, which was at anchor in Scarborough Bay, and a severe action terminated by the French obtaining a complete victory. Pursuant to the example of Bridges, the French admiral plundered the island and then returned to Europe, where he was most graciously re- ceived by Louis XIV. The Duke d'Estrees re-appeared off the island four months after, and landing at the head of his infantry, he attacked Admiral Binkes in Fort Lampsins, where the latter had taken refuge. But the Duke finding a greater resistance from the garrison than he expected, ordered a bombardment, and the third bomb having fallen on a powder magazine, a great part of the fort blew up ; which catas- trophe caused the death of Admiral Binkes, together with a great number of the garrison, so that the Dutch were under the necessity of quit- ting an establishment commenced under the most fortunate auspices in 1654. This event took place December 24, 1677. When peace was re-established between the ?&m$$m ^M :^^^#&$ H v$# TOBAGO CEDED TO ENGLAND. .317 belligerents in 1678, the Duke of Coin-land re- newed his old pretensions to this island, and for that purpose he sent an agent named Pointz, to London, to offer grants of land to Englishmen who might be inclined to settle there. In 1693, France being again at war with Great Britain and Holland, Captain Pointz made fresh attempts in England to lead colonists to Tobago, under the protection of William III. But this new project of colonization was not more fortu- natethanthe two former. At last,the house of Ket- tler, sovereigns of the duchy of Courland, being extinct in 1737, by the death of Ferdinand, son of James, the British government claimed the re- version of the island. In consequence of the altercations which inces- santly prevailed between Great Britain and France, after the treatyof Utrecht, on the subject of possess- ing Saint Lucia, Grenada, Saint Vincent and Do- minica, it was stipulated by that of Aix la Chapelle, in 1748, that Saint Lucia should remain to France, and the other three islands, as also that of Tobago, be considered as neutral ; and that the subjects of all European pow T ers should have the right to esta- blish themselves and carry on their commerce in those islands ; but that none of the contracting parties should place garrisons in them. It was not till the peace of 1763, that Louis XV. ceded Tobago in perpetuity to England. Ac- cordingly on the 20th of May, 1765, the King of 318 IMPORTANCE OF T()HA(.d. Great Britain appointed a commission for grant- ing lands on the island. Although previous to 1765, the population of the island was scarcely fifteen hundred inha- bitants, it was increased to twelve thousand in 1777 : of those twelve thousand persons, there were nine thousand slaves, two thousand one hun- dred people of colour, about two hundred Indians, and seven hundred whites. The colonial importance of Tobago commences at this period. The British employed large capi- tals there, for improving the cultivation of cotton, which is of superior quality, by its extreme white- ness, the softness and length of its grain. It was then calculated that the expences occasioned by the establishment of a sugar plantation were at the rate of <£50 sterling per acre, and that the net produce of the property was twenty per cent, on a plantation prudently managed. In 1776, this colony produced ten thousand hogsheads of raw sugar. In the same year thirty- three thousand pounds weight of cotton were ga- thered : some planters also applied themselves to the culture of spices, such as the pimento or allspice, myrtus pimenia, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, &c. Messrs. Franklyn and Robley, were those of the colonists who most encouraged and practised the cultivation of spices and cotton. It is a great satisfaction to publish the names of men, of what- soever nation they may be, who have introduced Kg ^mm $p ^B ^$t W&$?$ TAKEN BY THE FRENCH. 349 a new branch of agriculture, or who may have encouraged it by their capitals : such men are the true friends of humanity : why are not monuments and medals also dedicated to their memory ? During the contest with her North American colonies, so fatal to England, Tobago was taken by the Marquis de Bouille in 1781, and subse- quently ceded to France by the treaty of Versail- les in 1783. From the date of that treaty until the French revolution, in 1789, this colony had for its Governor, General Arthur Dillon, in whose administration no remarkable event oc- curred : a few Frenchmen settled there either as planters or traders. The old government com- mitted a great error in omitting to encourage the establishment of a numerous French popula- tion in this island. The preference granted by the government to the English over its own sub- jects, to gain the attachment of the former, were received by them with disdain. This policy of the ministers of Louis XVI. shews how little they were acquainted with the individual charac- ter of the British nation. When conquests of distant colonies are effected, it is frequently only for the purpose of making them objects of com- pensation at a peace ; and in such cases it is use- less to incur expenses for establishing a national population in them ; but when they are obtained by treaty, it is to preserve them as long as cir- cumstances will permit. Now, in such establish- ments, the physical strength of governments is 350 MH. 11 013 LEV almost nothing, and it is only by a moral influence that the attachment of the colonists can be secur- ed. This is a truth which cannot be too firmly rooted in the minds of governments which found colonies : the best and most secure ties that hold them attached to the mother country, are the identity of origin, language and manners : these ties will be found sufficient to retain them under the government of the parent state, so long as they cannot find much to gain by a change of masters, and until by a lapse of many ages., they acquire a sufficient population to admit of their becom- ing independent. War having commenced between Great Britain and France, in March, 1793, General Cuyler, at the head of two thousand men, proceeded to this island, and made the French garrison surrender. The cultivated part of the island is in a most flourishing state. I have never seen better farming or finer negroes. The principal plantation which belonged to the late Mr. Joseph Robley, at Sandy Point, is, perhaps, the best colonial establishment in the Antilles. It consists of six windmills for bruising the canes, and three for grinding maize. This property is divided into three sugar planta- tions, each having a double set of boilers. The negroes inhabit three streets, near the plantation to which they are attached : their huts are built of stone, and covered w T ith slates. In 1803, they amounted to a thousand, of all ages, and both sexes. Every thing about this plantation has tlie ■nB ■HJH9BMM Mnwo[nwa|B silt \V. YOUNG. 351 appearance of order and abundance. I went there several times during the peace of Amiens, and never did I hear the sound of the driver's whip. iVext to the plantation of Sir William Young-, at Saint Vincent's, I do not believe that there were any men in existence, employed in cultivation, more happy than the negroes on the Robley plantations, in 1803. This great proprietor had all the tradesmen necessary for such establishments on his property, such as masons, carpenters, wheelwrights, smiths, farriers, <&c. Once while I was at his house, the wind broke a vane of one of the windmills, and we heard a moment afterwards, that a similar accident had happened to a neighbour. " Come," said he, " and you shall see how soon I can repair the damage." A conque shell was blown, and I immediately saw a hundred negroes appear, some with pulleys, others dragging a capstan, and the rest an enormous triangular ladder ; at last a large waggon drawn by six fine mules brought a mill-vane, always kept ready in case of accidents : it was put Up in half an hour, and they then fitted the sail to it : in short, four hours after the acci- dent, the mill worked as well as ever. Mr. Robley then observed, " this is one of the many advantages a large proprietor possesses, in having his workmen at home: 1 have a double set of every thing necessary for sugar works on those three sugar plantations, which a/e on the same estate, and may be called six, as there are six mills, 352 MR. ROBLEY. and three double sets of cauldrons, and their ap- pendages, mill works, boilers, &c. All are numbered and ready in my stores ; so that if any accident happens it may be repaired in a few hours, with- out interrupting the manufactory of sugar. My neighbour, who has just experienced the same accident, has neither workmen nor materials of his own : so that while he goes to town to pur- chase those articles, for which he will be obliged to pay fifty percent, more than they have cost me in England ; and while his overseers are running about to seek workmen, and three or four days may be lost in procuring them, there are no longer any signs of the accident on my premises. My neighbour's canes, already cut, will ferment, and perhaps he will lose four or five hogsheads of sugar, without calculating the time of his ne- groes." I believe no man ever felt more happy than Mr. Robley, whilst he explained the above details, and others relative to the management of his plantation. This gentleman was the creator of his own fortune ; he was born of a respectable family in Cornwall, and had gone to the West Indies at the age of eighteen, employed as a clerk in the navy office. He first established himself in Tobago, in 1768, and began to cultivate the cotton plant with a capital of about ,£1700 sterling: already in 1789, which was only twenty-two years afterwards, besides the magnificent esta- blishment at Sandy Point, he possessed another sugar plantation with a water-mill of great value, KOB1.LY ESTATE. 353 which he had presented to one of his nephews.* He had, besides, at the peace of Amiens, a large sum in the public funds. This fortune he owed entirely to bis activity, prudence, and the fertile soil on which he had fixed his establishments. This great cultivator had besides two vessels which were his own property : the first time I saw them lying at anchor before his house, I mis- took one for a ship of the line, and the other for a frigate. They came twice a year and lay in front of his residence for the purpose of taking his produce to Europe, and of bringing not only all that was necessary for himself and his negroes, but also merchandize which he sold to the mer- chants of Tobago, and on which he gained con- siderable profits. No man in any country ever obtained more respect and authority than Mr. Robley in his limited sphere : he was president of the colonial council, and consequently gover- nor when the other was absent. Joseph Robley was the first inhabitant of this island, and perhaps of all the West Indies, who went to the expense of constructing water and wind mills expressly with a view of grinding maize for his negroes, and it was not long before his example was imitated by his neighbours. Before his time, and even at present in the other colonies, the negroes are obliged to grind the * Mr. J. Robley, the present liberal and intelligent proprietor of this interesting establishment. A A 354 INHABITANTS. maize with small iron mills, which fatigues them extremely, causing a great loss of time when they return from work at mid-day or in the evening. On those plantations they have not even sieves for separating the bran ; but on the Robley estate ihey receive their rations of maize flour well sifted, and all the grain which they bring to the mill is ground gratis. Mr. Robley neglected nothing that would induce them to prefer this food : from its stimulating qualities he thought it the best vegetable nourishment for men who cultivate the ground in hot climates. He had also made considerable plantations of the bread- fruit tree of Otaheite, and other plants brought from the South Seas by Captain Bligh, as well as those which are cultivated in the magnificent garden of Saint Vincent, by Mr. Anderson. Mr. Robley returned to England after the peace of Amiens, and was then about sixty years of age. He had not seen his native land from the age of eighteen : but he did not long enjoy the fruits of his industry having died in a year after his arrival. He bequeathed several legacies, among others, ono to a Frenchman who had rendered him some services. The first instance I ever heard in the colonies of any other English- man who had left a legacy to a Frenchman ! The present inhabitants of Tobago are nearly all Scotch. I have known even some Barbadians there who are very worthy people,and treat their negroes with humanity ; for according to an old Norman ^ty&m0£$i!&^$^^ti$^ m 1 HH NATIONAL PREJUDICES. 355 proverb, there are worthy people every where, even in Barbadoes, and the piratical towns on the coast of Barbary ! But at Tobago, as at Grenada and Barbadoes, it is the piratical portion that gives the law. It is really a most astonishing circumstance how those thirty-six months Scotch* have found means to make considerable fortunes in many of the West India islands, and to monopolize all the lucrative places. On the European continent the name of English is given to all subjects of his Britannic Majesty ; and yet the English, Welsh, Scotch, and Irish are by their prejudices, customs, and even their local laws, four distinct nations : the Irish, a people eminently frank and generous, say, and not without reason, that the Scotch are the best servants and the worst mas- ters in the world ! Bands of those poor devils which continually arrive in the colonies, always land in tatters ! These men are soon placed with the planters in the situation of negro drivers, or as clerks with merchants : they are laborious, parsimonious, and sober when they have to maintain themselves at their own expence : they accumulate gradually and by pennies, lend their money at usurious in- terest, and finish by amassing considerable capi- * The author says that this is the period for which Scotch emi- grants arc in the habit of selling themselves (oWest India propri- etors: hence the singular appellation they have acquired. — Ed. A A 2 35G CHARITY BEGINS AT HOME. tals. At length, some become partners in com- mercial houses, when they distinguish themselves in business by their artifice, a word which, in mercantile language, is synonymous with roguery. Others become agents for great plantations for proprietors ; and these are metamorphosed into implacable tyrants over their slaves. Both the one and the other then affect an insolent haugh- tiness, which renders them truly burlesque. The Scotch support and assist each other ; and this principle would be very laudable, if it did not proceed from a repulsive and hostile spirit to other people, without excepting even the inhabi- tants of the other British provinces. It has often happened that Scotch merchants and planters have dismissed their English and Irish clerks and overseers without giving them any other reason, and without having really any other, but that of replacing them by a Scotch clerk or overseer. It is not surprising then that such men, with such dispositions, resembling parasite and noxious plants, should finish by making themselves masters in every country where they have been suffered to take root. An Irishman aliuding to this disposition, regarding the Lords Bute, Mans- field, Melville and others, as well as the Scotch mobility, observed to me one day, " that if ever a Scotch plebeian succeeded in acquiring a fortune in China, he would end by becoming prime minister there; and if the Chinese Emperor would let him go on, there would not be a single eccle- ENGLISH PLANTKKS. 35T fciasiical civil or military situation in the whole empire, that in the course of ten years would not be filled by Scotchmen !" # The first English planters in Tobago, Young, Melvill, Franklyn, Robley, Robertson, &c. were persons of respectability ; but the clouds of Scotch boors, and barbarous Barbadians who became the majority there, have corrupted the manners of the colony, and rendered it almost as uninhabitable for an honest man as that of Botany Bay. As there is nothing more absurd, and at the same time so unjust as to insult a nation indis- criminately, I should declare that nothing is more distant from my thoughts and intentions than the idea of rendering the Scotch nation odious to my readers. Having had occasion to observe it in Europe as well as the colonies, hav- ing resided at Edinburgh, and travelled in Scot- land, I owe it to truth and impartiality to say, * However illiberal these opinions of M. Lavaysse may be thought by some, the Editor, without becoming in any manner a party, has already given his reasons for not suppressing them. But if the concluding comparison applied to our important settlement in New South Wales has been hitherto justified, it is most devoutly to be hoped that ministers will lose no time in making that stupen- dous appendage to the British crown more worthy of the sovereign who rules and the subjects that now so unwillingly obey them. The question has been taken up, but if a system of half measures is merely the result of inquiry, the colony might as well be left in its present wretched condition. For an excellent account of the manifold evils under which the colonists suffer, see Mr. Went- worth/s Statistical and Political Description. 358 LEARNED SCOTCHMEN. that I firmly believe there does not exist a peo- ple among which there is, in the higher classes, more virtue, benevolence, and hospitality. I can- not think of the venerated names of Maitland,* Whyte,t Duncan,} Munro,§, Gregory, Lind, Blair, Read, Beattie, Dugald Stewart, Sir Ralph Aber- crombie, the Duke of Bucckugh, and other persons with whom I had the happiness to be acquainted, without recalling to mind families in which the patriarchal and social virtues are hereditary. No country has had, and still possesses a grea- ter number of illustrious learned and scientific men of the first order, than Scotland ; and a circum- stance worthy of remark, but of which all na- tions unfortunately cannot boast, is that the bio- graphy of those literary characters, one only perhaps excepted, proves that they were also honest men ! The present men of learning in Edinburgh are worthy of their predecessors. Do not those honourable principles prove that they have been always estranged from factious and sectarian rage ? || * Maitland of Markgill, related to the Earls of Lauderdale, f Alexander Why to. a harrister of the greatest merit. * Andrew Duncan, professor of medicine, a man of world and science. § Matthew Munro, a great merchant in Grenada; who pro- tected, with all his influence, the persecuted French. He died at Bath in 1795. The other names are known to all persons of information. The Editor feels a peculiar pleasure in having an opportunity ftV&tM :$£&*££ vKOMATR' PLANTS 359 ft is for the moralists of Scotland to explain why in a nation where there is so mueh virtue and knowledge in the first classes of society, there should be found more servility and mean- ness in the lower, than among the chief part of the other European nations ; and why, in spite of his dress and grimaces, a Scottish courtier so much resembles a rich upstart ! I hope the reader will pardon me this digres- sion, which I have thought necessary to prove my impartiality, and I can truly assert that no national prejudice has influenced my description of manners. I now return to the subject of Tobago. It is said in this colony that the Lampsins had introduced the nutmeg and other aromatic plants of the East Indies, and that they are still found in the woods growing wild. I have read in an English treatise, explanatory of the map of this island, by Jeil'eries, that the nutmeg, cinnamon, and myrtm pimenta, which produces the berry known by the name of allspice, grow there spon- taneously in the gravelly soils. J took a great deal of pains in 1803, to discover the nutmeg of confirming the author's sentiments on this subject, and whatever prejudice or passion may suggest, with respect to that class which seems to have excited (he wrath of M. Lavaysse, there can be but one opinion entertained as to the unshaken integrity and honourable principles which distinguish that part of the Scottish mmunit) he has so pioperh complimented. 360 FRUIT TREKS. tree, and I am convinced it does not exist there, I know that some individuals, conversant in botany, have made researches as fruitless as mine, for the same object. But the cinnamon tree has become wild in the island, and I know not why they do not cultivate it. The myrtus pimenta produces a very agreeable spice, which is an ex- cellent tonic, and an indigenous plant. The late Mr. Franklyn had made a considerable planta- tion of it ; but this was abandoned by his sons, in order that they might attend exclusively to the culture of the sugar cane. This forest of pimento is become the haunt of innumerable flocks of parrots, which are excessively greedy of the grain, and so jealous of their property, that they exterminate, without mercy, any other birds they find there. I believe Tobago possesses almost every kind of plant that grows in the Antilles ; and besides, like Trinidad, the greater part of those which are peculiar to Spanish Guiana and Cape de Paria. The most valuable, as fruit trees and alimentary plants, are the orange, lemon, pomegranate, fig, and guava trees. The culinary plants of Europe, excepting the cauliflower, thrive very well in the gardens of this island. The figs and grapes are also of a very fine flavour, and produce twice a year, if care be taken to prune the trees and vines in a fortnight or three weeks after the fruit has been W Bmm^tW^MWM HffWlgWP I ■ *■ I WSBm M hirus. 3G1 gathered. All those useful and nourishing pro- ductions of the Island of Tobago, it possesses in common with that of Trinidad. Jt is a remarkable circumstance that Tobago having the same vegetable productions with Trinidad, quadrupeds and birds are found in the latter which do not exist in Tobago ; and in Tobago some birds that belong to the continent are not found in Trinidad ; the katraka, for in- stance. It is equally singular, that although a great number of them have been taken to Trinidad, and flown to the woods, they never multiplied there. Feuillee and M. Sonnini have given a good de- scription of this singular bird, which they rank in the family of pheasants. The Hoccos, those magnificent birds so well known in Trinidad, are not found at Tobago. The other indigenous birds, or which frequent the coasts of this island, are wild ducks, water- hens, wood pigeons, turtle and Virginian doves. Three varieties of humming birds ; blackbirds of yellow and black colours ; thrushes ; white woodcocks. A small bird of the size of a sparrow with magnificent plumage ; it has the head, neck, and the upper part of the body of the most bril- liant red ; the feathers of the wings and tail of a beautiful purple colour above, and of sky blue underneath ; its belly is also sky blue. I have never seen a more beautiful plumage than this little bird exhibits. Herons, the pouched pelican, 302 ANIMALS. eagles of the Orinoco and flamingoes frequent the coasts of this island. Though nearly all the quadrupeds of the im- mense region contained between the Amazons and the Isthmus of Panama, are found at Trinidad, very few of them are to be seen in Tobago. The small deer of Guiana, so common at Trinidad, does not exist at Tobago. The amphibious animals which frequent those coasts, are turtles and the sea cow. On the shores of Tobago are found a great variety of shell fish, such as starry, greenish, striped, red, and of all the colours of the rainbow that have not been described, and of which more than one new genus might perhaps be found. Those I have more particularly observed ap- proach the genus that the most modern natura- lists have described under the heads of Venus, Buc- cinum, Turrilita, Turritela, Helmet, Stromba, Tellina, Voluta, Cene, the oyster, &c. Formerly great quantities of oysters were attached to the mangrove trees in Tobago ; but the destruction of those trees has occasioned their disappearance. The surface of this island is more elevated in the eastern than the western part, which contains very beautiful savannas or natural meadows. The interior is composed of rounded hills and delightful vallies. The rotatory and undulatory motions of the currents are every where seen. The soil of 1 obago is generally rich, and the HW Hn| HU| ■1 ^^H HE ■■ SOIL. 363 vegetative earth more or less deep : none have stone on the mountains nor in the vallies ; you never see those large blocks of hyaline quartz that are met almost every where in Trinidad, on the summits of mountains as well as the plains. The rounded pebbles seen in small quantities at Tobago in the beds of rivers, are of quartzose freestone, some of hyaline quartz, others of am- phibolic schistus, and of the red pebbles noticed in a former chapter. The different excursions I made in the interior of this island have never enabled me to discover either sulphur or carbonate of lime. Tobago resembles the eastern part of Trinidad, with this difference, that the vegeta- tive soil in the first named island, is deeper on the hills than on those of Trinidad. The hills of both islands have not, like the mountains in the Antilles, those sharp peaks, and uncovered sides, that denote great volcanic convulsions. Every thing seems to indicate that Trinidad and Tobago were separated from the continent by a sudden retiring of the sea ; the Carribean Islands were apparently detached at the same time ; but the volcanoes acted, and still act a more important part in their granitic and basaltic mountains. At the Caribbean*, the spectator's imagination is moved, attracted and transported by the fearful, sublime and stupendous : while the pictures pre- sented in Tobago and Trinidad are of a calm, regular, and magnificent description. ■r 364 SCARBOROUGH. A very well informed man, though not a natu- ralist, has been struck with this difference in the geognostic physiognomy of Tobago from the Antilles. " Nature," says Sir William Young, " is on a more extensive plan than at the Antilles, and gives rather the idea of a continent than of an island, It ls not merely its neighbourhood to South America that suggests this idea. If the appearance of the island (which I term its phy- siognomy) authorises us to believe that it formed a part of that continent, its vicinity indicates still more clearly that it was separated violently, and that it w T as, at a remote period, the southern boun- dary or a bold promontory of Mexico." Scarborough, the capital of this colony, is situ- ated in 11° 8 North latitude, and 63° 30' West longitude. The island is twenty-four miles in length, from north-east to south-west, and twelve miles in its greatest breadth. In 1803, no more than three families of the aboriginal inhabitants, forming in the whole twenty-six individuals, remained at Tobago. This unhappy race is annihilated in the vicinity of the white people, wherever they have not been civi- lized by religious institutions. The currents near Tobago are very uncertain, especially in the channel that separates it from Trinidad. At the new and full moon, the tide rises four feet. The north-easterly trade wind blows all the year about the island. tstyW'i' H19H9m9M9h9II9MH BAYS. 3G5 The bays called Man of War, Courland, Sandy Point, and King's Bay, are calculated for vessels of the largest size. Tyrrel's Bay, Bloody Bay, Mangrove Bay, Englishman's Bay, Castera's Bay, and La Guira's Bay, have good anchorage for vessels of a hundred and fifty tons and under. Halifax Bay is fit for ships of two hundred and fifty tons ; but there is a shoal at the entrance of it which requires a pilot. If Tobago is seen towards evening, and the navigator fears to approach it, much sail should not be carried, but he ought to stretch to the southward under easy sail ; otherwise, the cur- rent, which always runs to the north-west or north-east, would make the ship lose sight of the island ; and if carried northward, must take her so far to leeward, that it would be impossible to regain the island. On entering any of the bays to leeward, ships may approach quite close to Saint Giles's Rock. Vessels that come from the eastward, and which steer for the south coast of the island, ought always to keep well to the southward, other- wise the current w T hich is round the lesser Tobago, and which always sets to the north-west, would carry them too far north. There is nothing to fear at the south-west, to the Bay of Courland, but rocks above water, except that called Ches- terfield Rock. 306 NEGROES. CHAP. IX. Inquiries concerning the Negroes. — Their intellectual Capabilities. — M. Lii.et. — Opinion of Camper and Blumenbach. — Difference between Negro Tribes. — TIow they are improved. — Blanchetiere Bej.levue. — Cause of Crime and Degeneracy in the Negroes. — Instances of Fortitude and Generosity among them. — Anecdote. — Allusion to the Cruelties exercised at Surinam. — Singular Instance of Resolution in Suffering. — Heroic Speech of a Negro. — Anecdotes. — Pride and Vanity of Negroes. — Affection for their Children — Causes of Infanticide amongst them. — Poisoning prevalent. — Mode of punishing the Delinquents. — Objections answered. — Reflections, — Advantages of Freedom. — Effects of the Slave Trade. — Sir Wi] Ham Young's Plantation — Treatment and Management of the Slaves there. — Mulattoes. — Their harsh Treatment by European?, and Condition in the Colonies. A great deal has been written on the negroes, and very learned men have published many false- hoods and absurdities on the subject. As if it were not enough that the institutions of their country and those of Europeans condemn them to slavery, it is also necessary to represent them as monsters in the physical aud moral world ! The celebrated Camper quotes the opinion of different writers who have discussed this point from the times of Herodotus, Strabo and Pliny, down to our own days. Will it be believed that there have been amongst those, men, who were ^^m g$t0:%0 THEIR ORGANIZATION'. 3G7 so ignorant of the first principles of zoology, as to suppose negroes to be a race produced be- tween man and the ourang outang ? Buffon, Daubenton, Camper, Scemmerring, the Munroes, Hunter, Blumenbach, Cuvier, Gall, Lacepede, and Humboldt, have made researches into their organization. Some of those learned men have considered them as a species, though they have employed the word race ; others deem them a variety ; these think the difference of their colour, hair, features, and some slight change in the bones, are only the effect of climate, food, certain habits and local causes, during the long succession of ages. One opinion rather generally entertained is, that the negroes are a race of men very inferior in their intellectual faculties to Europeans, the savages of America, and even other Africans with straight hair, known by the name of Moors. I would ask of those who are so little informed on the noblest part of natural history, comparative anatomy, as to suppose organization to have no relation with intelligence, if it be astonishing that men, such as the negroes, born in countries destitute of every institution for intellectual culture, should not have made any progress in the liberal arts and sciences ? It has been proved* by numerous examples, See " Literature of the Negroes, or Inquiries into their intel- 3G8 M. LILET. that whenever negroes had the means of receiving education, they have profited by it, like the rest of mankind. And even while this sheet goes to the press has not the Institute of France received astronomical observations on the comet of 1811, made in the Mauritius, by M. Lilet, a negro born in Madagascar, and who has arrived at a know- ledge of the superior sciences, without education, and by the mere force of genius ? The illustrious naturalists I have alluded to, though they admit that the negroes are of our species, (which, I believe, no person of common sense now doubts), still consider them as inferior to the rest of mankind, as to their intellectual faculties. Camper, Scemmerring, and Blumen- bach, who have attended particularly to the anatomy of the various forms of heads, thought they found in this organ, or assemblage of organs, the cause of the inferiority in negroes. There are to be seen in the anatomical plates of Camper, and Blumenbach, heads of negroes, of which the facial angle approaches to that of the ape. But besides them are the heads of Calmucks, whose leotual Faculties, &c." by H. Gregoire, formerly Bishop of Blois, and a member of the French Institute, &c. 1 vol. octavo, Paris, 1803. * He has made the best map we possess of the Isles of France and Bourbon, and written very interesting, geological and botani- cal tracts on Madagascar. Mons. L. is also a correspondent ol the ancient Academy of Sciences. ^M NEGROES. 3G9 inverted forehead and the rest of the shape do not announce more intelligence. I am far from denying the principles of those excellent investigators ; but with all the respect I enter- tain for their knowledge, I believe, and I hope to be able at some period to demonstrate that they have hastily decided on this question, from too few examples. What, in fact, would be said of an African or Asiatic philosopher, if such there are, as there have been, in those countries, who, seeing some ill-shapen sculls of Europeans, would decide that the Europeans are necessarily a stupid race of men ? Since I have undertaken to descant on this sub- ject, I ought to tell the truth. No prejudice or other earthly consideration, no fear of displeas- ing a class of men, otherwise respectable, but whose minds are embittered by misfortunes in which I also participate, nothing shall induce me to speak otherwise than I think : happy if my feeble but impartial voice should at some future day enlighten governments on the localities and reciprocal interests of colonies and mother countries. I shall therefore candidly declare what a re- sidence of sixteen years, the possession of estates in the colonies, and a long habit of governing negroes have enabled me to observe. In the first place a Moco or Ibo negro differs as much by the inferio- rity of his cerebral organization and intellectual powers from a Coromantyn or Gold Coast neirro B B 370 BUY AN EIWAKDN, MandingOj Congo, and especially a Mozambique, as the Calmucks and some tribes which live nol far from them, are inferior to Europeans: I pledge myself for the correctness of this assertion, which though not sufficiently developed now, w T ill be so at some future period, by facts and a more learned pen than mine.* The inferior races of negroes improve in the colonies, in respect to intellect, either by their mixture with the superior ones, or by a better climate than that of Guinea. There is no doubt also that their communications with Europeans and their descendants contribute to the develope- ment of their intellectual faculties. All the colonists who possess a spirit of observation, agree that the Creole negroes are in general more intelligent than the greater part of the Euro- pean peasants, and that they are in no respect inferior, in this point of view, to the white * It is not the history of negroes that I pretend to write ; ] merely wish to dispel the prejudices that are unfavourable to them. Brvan Edwards, though a defender oflhe colonial system, ex- presses himself' thus, in speaking of the negroes of Whydah or Fida, commonly called Papos in the colonies: " they are docile, and when they have been transported into the colonies it is nor necessary to employ violence to make them work in agriculture, because their own country is very well cultivated. Bosnian, who travelled in that country, speaks with delight of the manner in which they cultivated their lands, of their industry, wealth and the mildness of their manners.' 11 History of the West Indies, Vol. II. Book 4. 7^0'^'^ '?0% ST. DOMINGO. 371 Creoles who have not received an education. I have known men of great wit and sound sense among them. I remarked, however, that though the Creole negroes have generally a more intelligent countenance than the Africans, they have not in their look, and especially their smile, either the mildness or benevolence of many of the latter. The Coromantyns are distinguished by the haughtiness of their gait and looks, without any indication of ferocity; the Mandingoes, Foul- has, and Mozambiques, by great mildness in their look and smile ; the Mokos and Ibos by a narrow and low forehead, small heads, projecting teeth, eyes without expression; and the Creoles gene- rally by traits of trick and cunning, which they no doubt acquire in flattering the young whites from their earliest infancy. But I have known many estimable persons in all these tribes. A Creole of Martinico, Mr. Blanchetiere Bellevue, who was advantageously known to the Consti- tuent Assembly by the brilliancy and vigour of his talents, made a collection of their proverbs, maxims, and songs. It contains some articles wor- thy of being placed beside the Manual of Epic- tetus, Aphorisms of Cervantes and of our most witty songs. And who have been the authors of them ? Negroes and Mulattoes, who are rigidly prohibited from learning to read or write !* * These opinions of the author are fully borne out by the asto- nishing spectacle of a black dynasty in St. Domingo, unquestinably B B 2 372 CIVILIZATION OF ST. DOMINGO. I think I already hear some of my readers speak of their vices, their libertinism, knavery, and the most extraordinary event to which the French revolution has as yet given rise. When we reflect on the abject state of that fine island in J 789, and view the richest portion of it in 1819, governed by a legitimate monarch, who is not ashamed of his origin, will any one deny that the age of revolutions has not at length arrived ? Leaving this part of the wonder to its own merits, we have only to contemplate the able organization of the new king- dom, and the talents displayed by the members of its administra- tion, and fresh sources of amazement burst upon the mind ! Parochial and primary schools, on the Madras system, in every part of King Henry's dominions; a royal college, with annual prizes given to the most distinguished students. Academies for music and painting, a regular national theatre, and royal resi- dence, which, for elegance and chasteness of design is not inferior to many of the palaces of Europe, a numerous clergy, and a long train of nobles, are but a few of the wonders to which our attention is now 60 irresistibly excited in that interesting quarter of the globe. The reflections of a native and subject of Henry I. the Baron de Vastey, in reply to observations contained in the French Journals, deserve to be recorded, while they prove how capable a black writer is of emulating his white brethren, even on the, score of literature. " Five and twenty years ago, 11 says the en- lightened baron, " we were plunged in the deepest ignorance, we bad no notion of society, no distinct ideas of happiness, no power- ful feelings ; our faculties, both physical and moral, were so over- whelmed under the load of slavery, that I myself who am writing this, thought the world finished at the horizon which bounded my sight; my ideas were so limited that things the most simple were incomprehensible to me ; and all my countrymen were as ignorant, and, if possible, even more so than myself! I have known many of them, who learned to read and write themselves without the help of a master; I have seen them walking with their books in their hands, inquiring of the passengers, and begging them to ex- plain the signification of such a character or such a word, and in this way, have many, already advanced in years, become able to ■HI wnmKmUKRmmmm ■ KING IIKNRV I. 373 propensity to thieving 1 , &c. My reply is, that in all times, those vices were and ever will be the inseparable companions of slavery. read and write without the benefit of education. Such men have become notaries, attornies, advocates, and judges, astonishing the worid by the sagacity of their judgment; others have become painters and sculptors from their own exertions, and have also surprized strangers by their productions!" That his Haytian Majesty is determined to preserve the struc- ture his talents has enabled him to raise, may be inferred from the following extract from his manifesto in assuming the regal dignity. ' ; The last of the Haitians," says this eloquent state paper, " will breathe out his last sigh sooner than renounce his independence. Free by right, and independent in fact, we will never relinquish these blessings ; nor witness the subversion of the edifice which we have raised and cemented with our blood. Faithful to our oath, we will rather bury ourselves beneath the ruins of our country, than suffer the smallest infringement of our political rights." In addition to his military talents, Henry is represented by those who know him, as humane and benevolent, eminently distinguished in the exercise of social virtue, both as a kind parent, good husband, and steady friend — strict in the observance of all the duties of religion and iviorality! Contrary to the too prevalent custom both in Europe and Hayti, he attached himself in early life to one woman, whom lie never forsook. That woman is now Queen of Hayti, beloved by all ranks and conditions of his subjects. The King is said to possess a propriety and dignity of manner seldom attained by the best educated man; and his proclamations, gene- rally dictated by himself, are compositions of which the most civilized cabinets of Europe need not be ashamed! Since this extraordinary man, and honour to his species, has chosen the kingly government as best suited to the genius and disposition of his people, God grant, that in holding out an example of private worth, so justly meriting imitation by many white contemporaries, 'us public conduct may be exempt from those vices which render omeof the latter unpopulaj at home and contemptible abroad !--Eo. 374 REVOLT OF NEGROES. The cruelties and ferocity which they exercisod on the whites in Surinam, St. Domingo, and the British colonies, where they have revolted, will nevertheless be remembered with horror, although there can be no difficulty in tracing the original cause. Read the dismal history of revolutions, in all times and amongst all nations, and you will every where see that whenever slaves have succeeded in breaking their chains, they have forged arms from them to exterminate their masters. But since we are on the subject of the character of negroes, let us consider them in respect to forti- tude and generosity, the first qualities in human nature. I shall select some examples, extracted from two respectable writers, Bryan Edwards, and Mr. Stedman. There was a revolt at Jamaica, in 1760. The principal chief of the insurgents was named Tacky, a Coromantyn negro : he had been a chieftain in his own country, and was killed about the commencement of the insurrection. When government had quelled the revolt, it con- demned one of the chiefs to be burnt alive, and the two others to be hung up in iron cages, and there starved to death, in the public square of Kingston. The wretched being destined to be burnt, was placed sitting on the ground, his body chained to a post, when the fire was placed at his feet. He did not utter a sigh, and saw his legs burnt to cinders with a calm firmness ; but the M H H FORTITUDE. 375 chain that conlined one of his hands, being loosen- ed, he seized one of the firebrands that consumed him and threw it in the face of his executioner. The two others requested to have a good meal before they were suspended in their cages, which was granted. From that day, says the histo- rian of the British colonies, until the one on which they expired, they never complained, ex- cept of the cold during the night ; but in the day time, they conversed gaily with their coun- trymen assembled round the gibbet. On the seventh day it was rumoured amongst the spec- tators, that one of them wished to communicate an important secret to his master, " my near rela- tion," says Mr. Edwards : " being absent in the pa- rish of St. Mary, the commanding officer sent me to hear it. I endeavoured, by means of an interpre- ter, to extract the promised information, but we could not hear his reply. I recollect that he and his companion in misery laughed immoderately at something that happened ; though I do not remember what it was. On the following morning one of them expired without uttering a word, and the other died the next day, the ninth of his punishment."* Stedman, after having given a picture of the cruelties practised on the negroes at Surinam, relates that on his arrival in that colony, a white * History of the British Colonics in the West Indies. Vol. II. Book 1. 376 HORRIBLE TORT (RES, man was flogged by a black executioner, for having stolen some money from the town-house ; and he remarked that this negro inflicted the punishment with great signs of commiseration. A negro was broken on the wheel for the same crime, and he bore that horrible punishment without a sigh. A moment afterwards, they prepared to hang another, and whilst the hangman was tying the cord round his neck to launch him into eternity he looked stedfastly, with a smile of contempt, at his judges who were amongst the spectators of the execution. " Having expressed to the per- sons who were near me, (says Captain Stedman) how much I was shocked with the injustice and cruelty of those executions, and surprised at the intrepidity of the negroes during the punishment, a very decent looking man thus addressed me : " Sir, you are newly arrived from Europe ; but if you were better acquainted with negro slaves, what you now see would neither excite your sur- prise nor your pity. It is not long since I saw a negro suspended from that very gibbet by the ribs. The following is the manner in which it was done : two incisions were made in his side, in which was passed an iron hook attached to a chain. He lived three days suspended in that man- ner, his head and feet hanging down, licking from his bleeding breast the drops of water that fell on it, for it rained at the time. The sufferer did not, however, utter a groan, and never once com- plained. On the third day, another negro was BBSS J i !IS! MH tl ffl BH Bi MflBlHgffl B lll i H > ■■„ r: .' H fiSSHI " ^ COKTEMPT of death. 3T7 flogged under the gallows, and having cried from pain, the former reproached him for his want of courage: Do gay fasy? " Are you a man?" said he to him, "you behave like a child !'* A moment afterwards the soldier who was sentry on the spot taking pity on him, dashed out his brains with the butt end of his musquet. I saw another negro quartered,'' the narrator continued : "after hisarms and legs were tied to four very strong horses, an iron nail was driven under each nail of his hands and feet. He suffered that without complaining, requested a glass of rum, and ordered the execu- tioners to let loose the horses. But that which amused us most," continued this monster, " was the humour of the fellow, who, when the hangman presented the glass of rum to him that he had asked for, told him to drink first, as he was very much afraid of being poisoned, and desired him to take care that his horses should not kick him. As for old negroes being broken on the wheel, and young women burnt alive, nothing is more common in this colony ! ! !"* * Narrative of a five Years Expedition against the revolted Negroes of Surinam, by Captain I. G. Stcdman.t t The proeess of suspending human beings by their ribs, has alway« been a favourite mode of punishment, amongst many others equally repulsive in the Dutch colonies. It is even con- fidently asserted that the system of legislation by which these horrible cruelties arc sanctioned is still in force at the Cape of Good Hope : if so, God forbid that any individuals disposed to emi- grate from this country, however great their suU'erings mav be ai 378 A SPEECH. Stedman's work is full of instances of the cruelty of Europeans, and the heroism of the martyred negroes. The noble speech of one of those negroes, which I extract from the same work, will not be misplaced here. One of the fugitive, or revolted slaves, being brought before his judges, who had condemned him previous to hearing what he had to say in his defence, re- quested to be heard for a few minutes before lie was sent to execution ; when leave being granted, he spoke to the following effect : " I was born in Africa : while defending the person of my prince in battle, I was taken pri- soner and sold as a slave on the coast of Guinea. One of your countrymen, who sits amongst my judges, purchased me. Having been cruelly treated by his overseer, I deserted and went to join the rebels in the woods. There also, I was condemned to become the slave of their chief Bonnay, who treated me with still more cruelty than the whites, which obliged me to desert a second time, determined to fly from the human species for ever, and to pass the rest of my life home, should be induced to select the Cape, while so many less exceptionable and more fertile regions are open to them. Let us also hope that the meeting of parliament will be marked by a strict inquiry into the causes of that war of desolation and bloodshed, which is now waging between the poor Cafires, and those whom they consider, no matter how erroneously in our opinion, as usurpers and invaders. — Ed. ^H ^H £y$& HKROISM. 379 innocently and alone in the woods. 1 had lived two years in this manner, a prey to the greatest hardships and the most dreadful anxiety, merely attached to life by the hope of once more seeing my beloved family, who are, perhaps, starving owing to my absence. Two years of misery had thus passed, when I w T as discovered by the rangers, taken and brought before this tribunal, which now knows the wretched history of my life, and of which the only favour I request is, to be executed on Saturday next, or as soon as it may be convenient." This speech was pronounced with the greatest moderation, and by one of the finest negroes the author had ever seen. His master, who, as he had remarked, w T as one of his judges, made him this atrociously laconic reply : " Rascal ! it is of little consequence to us to know what you have been saying ; but the torture shall make you confess crimes as black as yourself as well as those of your detestable accomplices." At these words, the negro, whose veins seemed to swell w T ith indignation and contempt, retorted in showing him his hands ; " Master, these hands have made tigers tremble ; yet you dare to threaten me with that despicable instru- ment ! No, I despise all the torments which you can now invent, as well as the wretch who is about to inflict them." On saying these words, he threw himself on the instrument, where he ■suffered the most dreadful tortures without utter- 380 FIDELITY OF NtGROES. ing a syllable. Nor was he heard to say another word till the moment of ending his unhappy life on the gallows.* Does the history of the heroic times contain in- cidents more worthy than those of exciting the admiration and sympathy of generous minds, and what do they require to reach the remotest posterity ? The interesting history of Stedman is replete with trails of generosity and fidelity of the negroes to their good masters. He mentions, amongst others, a chief of the rebels, who had been treated in the most cruel and insulting manner. Having surrounded his master's plantation several times at night, in the hope of finding the tyrant in it, and of exercising his vengeance on him ; the wife of the latter had remained in the house, and each time that the negro chief came, she threw herself at his feet, in tears, accompanied by her little children. The negro raised her, caressed his little masters (as he called them,) shed tears of affection over them, and retired, without doing the least injury to the plantation. He concluded by promising his mistress, of whose conduct he could not complain, that he would return no more to trouble her. Still there are those who assert that the negroes are a race of degenerated men, inaccessible to * Sec Vol. II. (if the same work, page 208= H HBiMBWiilWHMMifl AUTHOR S FMIMRTULTTY. as I every noble and generous sentiment ! Amongst the Europeans, could we find, in such circum- stances, many whites who w T ould display more greatness of soul, and as feeling a heart, as this negro of Surinam and his companions in arms 8 '? Bryan Edwards states in his account of the insurrection at Jamaica, in 1700, that the rebels spared Abraham Fletcher, the overseer of his uncle, because the negroes on that plantation assured the insurgents he had always treated them with humanity : he adds very properly, that this ought to be a lesson for overseers ! In order to reply, by facts, to the interested or ignorant writers who wish to make negroes pass for a depraved and ferocious race of men, un- worthy of participating in the advantages of civilization and liberty, I have chosen rather to quote two well known authors, Bryan Edwards, proprietor of a plantation in Jamaica, w T here he had four hundred negroes, and who certainly was not anigrophilus, and Stedman, an officer in the Dutch service, whose interesting voyage bears the stamp of sincerity and the most generous feeling. I have preferred, in speaking of the character of the negroes, also to quote foreign authors, whose repu- tation is established, than to relate a great num- ber of facts witnessed by myself, and which are highly honourable to the character of negroes and people of colour. Some of these w T ill not, however, I trust, be unacceptable to my readers. 38*2 ESCAPE. During the civil wars in Martinico, I wandered one day to the outposts of our camp, and I found myself surrounded in the bottom of a ravine by a patrole of negroes and men of mixed blood. 1 thought myself lost, because the two parties waged a war of extermination. Whilst they were deliberating whether they should shoot me immediately, or conduct me to head-quarters, one of the negroes approached, and said : " It was you who, on such a day, asked forgiveness for me, when Mr. A. P. my master, would have picketted me for a robbery, of which I was inno- cent, and w^hich was committed by that comrade you see there ! Vous bon bequ6, vous teni enco coeur mouton France! Be tranquil, no harm shall be done to you." After this address they no longer thought of shooting me, but offered me some rum; upon which I drank their healths, and they drank to mine. They next proposed that I should join their party, and promised to appoint me as one of their officers. I answered that if I were to accept their generous offers, it would be said by my party, that I had deserted, and was a traitor. Upon this they unanimously ap- proved my view of the subject, and permitted me to return to my camp, merely requiring my word of honour that I would not mention what had occurred to any one, adding, that if their general (which general was a white) heard they had spared me, they might readily lose their lives for it. PIUDE OF NEGROES. .383 Afterwards, during the civil war in Saint Lucia, one day when J carried an order to a post half a league from our camp, I was aimed at by a detach- ment of mulattoes and negroes concealed in a thicket. Five or six shots were fired, none of which reached me. A man of colour seized the bridle of my horse, and whilst I was drawing my sabre to rid myself of him, he shouted to his comrades, " Stop firing, do not injure this white man ;" and I remained motionless, with my sabre lifted over his head. I was immediately surrounded, he who held my bridle was told that I must dismount to be shot. " You shall not shoot this white man, or if you persist in it, I will die with him !" was the reply of Belfond, in a voice of thunder. " This white-man has never despised people of colour : when he speaks to us he always says Sir I went to his house some time ago on business, he was at breakfast and made me sit at table with him. Are there many fellows of that cast ?" Here I ought to mention what I have observed, in common with all persons who have had the means of studying the character of negroes and people of colour ; it is, that there are no men in the world more susceptible of contempt*. I have * TIic negroes have naturally a groat deal of pride in their character ; but it degenerates into vanity in the state of slavery. With respect to negro vanity, the following circumstance hap- pened at Blois last year. Some catholics and protestants exhort- 381 Pit I OK. seen negroes become furious by a contemptible or ironical look from their master or overseer, though not accompanied by any offensive ex pression in language : I have seen them com- plain of it in the most audacious tone, and at the hazard of being knocked down. One day when a negro annoyed me with his com- plaints against a sorcerer, who, he said, had ren- dered his cocks and hens barren, and given his pigs the cholic, I shrugged up my shoulders in looking at him with an air of compassion ; whilst he, with eyes sparkling with rage, exclaimed ; " strike me, if you please ; but do not look at me awry !" To make amends for this involuntary offence, I told him that if he had taken better notice of me, he would have seen I did not look at him with contempt, but that it was an involuntary movement of pity, in seeing a oil a young negro to be baptized. He was on the point of deciding in favour of the protcstant faith. M. de M. ... undertook the conversion of the sable candidate, and gained a victory over the children of Calvin, for he was baptized by a parish priest. M. dc M. . . . gave him twelve francs (ten shillings) as a present on the day of his baptism. In what does the reader suppose that he employed this money ? He inquired if there was not a sedan chair in Blois, and found there was one. Upon which our young proselyte gave the twelve francs to two chairmen, to carry him through all the streets. At every moment ho put his head out of the windows, to show his beautiful hair highly pow- dered ! But what most flattered his self-love, on this occasion, was doubtless to see himself thus carried by two while-, ! H AFFECTION FOR CHILDREN. 385 sensible nogro like him, esteemed as he was by- all the whites, believe in such nonsense. This little compliment composed him : I saw a smile on his lips, and satisfaction in his eyes ; but he did not believe a whit the less in the influence of sorcerers. The negroes, in general, show the greatest fondness for their children, and do not refuse them any thing. It is, however, but truth to say, that when they deserve chastisement, they perform it with violence ; but their children are the most obstinate weepers in the world, and the father or mother after having beaten them several times, generally finish by giving them playthings or cakes to pacify them. All I can say of the religion of the negroes is, that some are idolaters, and others Maho- metans ; but the greater part of them are cir- cumcised. It appears certain that they practised circumcision before Mahometanism was known to them. The idolatrous negroes are of milder manners than the Mahometans, probably because their religion is not intolerant. The two crimes most revolting to nature, abor- tion and infanticide, ought to be very rare amongst men who have so much affection for their chil- dren ; yet there are frequent instances of them : but it is only on plantations where negroes are treated with injustice and cruelty. In such cases it is not uncommon for a negro and his wifetoresolve on poisoning themselves and their children, to 380 MODE OF POISONING. to be freed from misfortunes without a remedy. They always begin by poisoning their children, then some of the slaves who are most useful to their masters, such as the refiners, carpenters, or masons. Thus they have before they die the plea- sure of seeing their masters exasperated and ruined by the loss of their slaves. They usually employ slow poisons, the effects of which endure for several months ; thereby enjoying for a long time the only revenge they can practise on their op- pressors ; because, for themselves, they consider death as a benefit, and passage to a better life. It is very remarkable that when a negro has taken a resolution to ruin his master, by poisoning his gang, he is never informed against by his com- rades, though they generally know who the poisoner is, and that each expects to perish by the effects of his vengeance : they preserve his secret inviolably, which is often difficult to learn from them even in the midst of punishments ! Then the proprietor, who sees his fortune ruined by the daily deaths of his slaves, demands from government the appointment of a commission for trying the poisoners. Those commissions bear, in the French colonies, the name of burning- chambers, and they are well termed. The pro- prietor or his overseer fills the offices of accuser and judge at the same time : in this simulation of a trial, where sentence is always pronounced at the will of the proprietor, who is at once accuser, witness, reporter, and judge, pretended sorcerers ■I SLAVE TRADE. 387 are often employed to find out the guilty, who have great influence on the minds of the negroes, and who are themselves poisoners by profession. It happens even at times that great proprietors con- sider themselves sufficiently powerful, to do what they call justice, in their blind fury at home, and which consists in burning,by their private authority, the negroes they believe to have been guilty of poisoning. I expect already that certain persons who cannot be cured of their prejudices by any revolution, and whom no misfortune can render reasonable, will term me a nigrophilus. I shall not reply to such an accusation ; but merely say that the colonial system in the American islands is a monstrous anomaly. The slave trade makes every European shudder, who has human feelings, when he sees herds of negroes landed, who are sold like beasts of burden. I appeal to the recol- lection of all those who have been present at sales from slave ships. What sensations did they ex- perience, when, for the first time they saw those bargains for human flesh, before the interest of the moment and custom had familiarized them to this abuse? The same, I suppose, that a man feels, who for the first time is present at a scene of carnage, or who commits his first bad action. In favour of the actual colonial system, it will be asserted that St. Domingo and our other colonies enlivened our commerce, caused our manufactures to flourish, and enriched France. I agree to all that; but the cause and the source of those riches c c 2 388 SLAVE TRADE. was neither less odious nor unjust. The Bri- tish East India Company might employ those very arguments to justify all the crimes of which its agents have been guilty. I believe it is proved to every dispassionate mind and every honest heart, that colonies would have been more popu- lous, and rendered much more wealth to parent states, if, in their origin, they had been peopled with freemen. In fact, is it not known to all those who have occupied themselves with this matter, that it was necessary to renew the slave population of our colonies every twenty years, or, which amounts to the same thing, that they annually lost the twentieth part of their po- pulation ? Yet the colonies of freemen, situated on the continent of North America, doubled theirs every twenty-five years, and have doubled it every sixteen years since their independence. The means of subsistence are much less abundant, and require more labour from man, in those co- lonies, than in the Antilles ; and it is known that when all other matters are equal, population in- creases in proportion to the means of subsistence. These facts, which cannot be denied by the apo- logists for negro slavery, without modification,* prove how bad this system is in respect to interest, * I have put the expression without modification in italics, because whoever proposes to ameliorate the situation of the people of colour and negroes, is pointed out as an anarchist, by a class of men whose prejudices are incurable. gMfflBP SLAVES (J N PROFITABLE. 389 independently of its immorality. Mr. Edwards has proved that the capital invested in the British colonies, in agricultural establishments, does not render five per cent, during twenty years, on the greater part of the plantations. M. de Humboldt has proved, in his Statistics of Mexico, that the labour of slaves costs more than that of freemen. Is it then worth the trouble of emigrating, re- mitting property so far, and committing so much injustice and cruelty, for such small profits ? It is generally believed in Europe, that the money employed in purchasing a good plantation in the colonies, produces fifteen per cent, and sometimes more. This is true, when the plantation is well and humanely regulated. That which ruins the greater part of the proprietors, is the mortality of the negroes : of a thousand transported from Africa, grief or ill-usage destroys one third, in the first three months after their arrival ; and at the end of six or seven years, seven or eight tenths of the others are dead ! In Trinidad, To- bago, and Grenada, it is considered very fortunate when of thirty young negroes bought in the course of a year, there may be six in good health five years afterwards. On the greater part of the plantations the negroes have few children ; a third of those children do not reach the age of one year, and the half of another third never arrive at the age of four, the period at which they are considered as escaped, according to the expression of the country. 390 Sift WlLtofAM YOI'S'G. But I ought to state that there are plantations* in the British and French colonies, where the population augments, as in the best regulated countries. It increases almost equally with the white population in the Spanish and Portuguese colonies, because the negroes there are treated with great humanity. Of all the British, French, and Spanish plantations I have known, the one on which the most admirable order is preserved, is undoubtedly that of Sir William Young at St. Vincent's. This plantation, delightfully situated partly on the declivity of a hill and partly in the plain, on the sea coast, is watered by a fine river. The negroes are as well lodged as the substantial peasantry in the finest countries of Europe, while their properties are inviolable. The father of the present proprietor always took care that, in his absence the plantation should be managed by a man of known humanity, and his worthy son follows the example. There, neither the manager or his deputies have the privilege of flogging the negroes. When a negro has committed a fault, the manager or overseer gives an account of it to the attorney, who pronounces sentence, after hav- ing heard the accused and the witnesses he produces in his defence. It is well known at St. Vincent's that this plantation is that of the whole island on which the fewest crimes are committed, and a whole year sometimes passes without the necessity of pu- nishing a negro on it, whilst a day seldom occurs but some negro is flogged on the adjacent estates. nm^ m mmmmmm HUMANE REGULATION*. 391 Amongst other excellent regulations made by Sir William, one deserves to be particularly noticed: as soon as the physician has declared a negress with child, she is dispensed from all work, and not required to labour until one month after child-birth. As long as she suckles her infant, she is allowed two hours more repose every day than the other negroes, and on Saturday she is not permitted to work. If she has two chil- dren, she has two free days, without reckoning Sunday, which all the others have. Should she have three, she is allowed three days : in short, she has a day free for each child of which she is the mother, so that the negress who has six chil- dren is exempted from all work at the plantation. So that her whole time is free for the duties of housewifery, and she does not the less receive her rations of seven pots of meal and four pounds of salt meat and fish, as well as a similar ration for each of her children. There are on this planta- tion a chaplain and physician, who take the great- est care of the negroes ; for Sir William Young has never employed any but men of probity. The population is so increased on the estate, that not only has there been no necessity for a long time past to purchase any negroes, but there were in 1806 more than the number necessary for cultivating it ; and yet the proprietor has had the good sense and humanity not to sell any of his slaves, by whom he is adored. When his father died at St. Vincent's, the negroes presented a petition praying that the 392 INSTANCE OF AFFECTION. remains of their dear master might be interred in the plantation : thus it was that they still called him in 1804 ; and I have seen those of them who wept in pronouncing his name, though it was then more than twenty years since his death! When the body of Sir William was conveyed on board a vessel anchored off the wharf of the plan- tation, to be sent to England, for the purpose of being deposited in the vault of his ancestors, the negroes who could not obtain boats to accompany it on board, swam after it as far as the ship ; and respectable persons in the island have assured me, that some who were not good swimmers, drown- ed themselves in this pious enterprize ! The negro population increases on all the plan- tations that are administered with humanity. Amongst the establishments which I can men- tion most favourably are, in the first place those of the religious missionaries of Martinico and Guadaloupe, where the negroes were treated in a patriarchal manner, and instructed on princi- ples of religion, and in which neither concubin- age nor adultery are permitted. Many other estates are managed with great humanity .- those which I have most known, are the planta- tions of Fortier, Du Buc, at the Grand Fond and Gallion, of Lucy, Fossarieu, &c. ; in Marti- nico and Guadaloupe the plantations of Poyen, Gondrecourt, Desislets, and Decressoniere, Bel- legarde, &c. I believe that on the greater part of the plantations in the British and French co- ^m ■ REVOLUTIONARY DELIRIUM. 393 lonies, the negroes are humanely treated, and merely name those more particularly known to me for good administration. Let it not be supposed from what I have said above, that I approve of the opinions of those who, in the revolutionary delirium, liberated the slaves without modification, and raised them to the rank of citizens. Though a victim, like a great number of the colonists, to the conse- quences of that measure, I have not less esteem and regard for some of its promoters. Their sincere zeal for the cause of humanity, and the exaggerated opinions of that period, which mis- led them, form their excuse. I can distinguish between some worthy men, whose sensibility and imagination were inflamed by fictitious represen- tations of the cruelties of the colonists, and the mountebanks of philanthropy, such as Raynal* and some of his disciples, who, whilst they en- riched themselves in the negro trade, did not cease to represent the colonists as tyrants. We now know how to appreciate the false zeal and hypocrisy of those pretended friends of huma- nity, impostors who, if born in another age, would have been fanatical monks. Now that I have concluded this very imper- fect sketch of the colonial system, and freely f It is well known that Raynal hold shares in the slave ships of the house of D of Nantes, and in those of the firm of bollier, of Marseilles 394 OBSERVATIONS. expressed my opinions on the condition and cha- racter of the negroes, many of the colonists and apostles of the liberty of the negroes will doubt- less be greatly offended. For if the least im- provement in the situation of the slaves, or small- est shock on their authority be merely hinted, they instantly exclaim, " he is a nigrophilus /" a term of reproach which, in their language, is a gross insult. But the past ought to serve as a lesson for the future. The organization of the colonies that are restored at a general peace, or those which may be founded, in future times, ought seriously to occupy the attention of government. I shall make an observation in this place which may appear paradoxical to many : it is, that there is a much greater distance from the savage to the pastoral state, than from the latter to one of the highest civilization. Accordingly it would be much more easy to give a horde of Tartars, Hottentots, or negroes a taste for our manners, customs and sciences, than it has been hitherto found to persuade the American savages to rear flocks and herds, or make them feel the advan- tages of the most simple agriculture. But when the negroes succeed in obtaining their liberty, they are generally found to form new planta- tions, and some of them, by dint of labour and economy, become great proprietors in the end. Others act as extensive traders, and such are seen in all the colonies, especially at Trinidad, where Ihev often become considerable merchants. Mi'i.ATTor.s, 395 have thought it necessary to make this remark, in order to point out a marked difference between the character and dispositions of the negroes and savages. Such a form of govern- ment, and law, as may be good for the one, is not lit for the others : this then is what those who undertake to superintend their civilization ought to be convinced of; for if they do vio- lence to nature, they will cause her to retro- grade instead of advancing. This would be the proper place to speak of people of mixed blood, who, in the European languages are stigmatised with the insulting deno- mination of Mulatto. And who are the men that have given them this epithet ? Even those who begot them in their brutality ! The fate of those unfortunate people is at least as much to be pitied as that of the negroes. They know that they are the children of whites, and yet they are treated by their fathers and brothers as an abject and proscribed cast ! There are none, even to the negroes, who do not arrogate to themselves the privilege of despising them ; and the hatred which is continually fomented between these two classes, is one of the great pivots of colonial po- licy. A white man forms a connection with a negress or a mulatto woman ; he has children by her '; the mother rears them with tender- ness ; the father caresses and takes care of them, though, in the greater part of the colonies they are prohibited from giving him the fond appella- 390 INHUMANITY. tion of father.* This class is so degraded, that a woman of colour considers it an honour to be the concubine of a white man ; but she regards herself as his wife, and generally maintains an inviolable fidelity to him, though she knows that her keeper will abandon her as soon as he may take a fancy to marry a white woman. Whatever education a man or woman of colour may have received, whatever may be their vir- tues, however considerable their fortunes, no- thing can raise them to a level with the meanest white, who is authorized by the prejudices of the country to treat them with insolence. And yet those men and women of colour are daily seen to practise the kindest hospitality towards unfortunate whites abandoned by every one else. I could fill a volume with instances of gene- rosity and humanity in the negroes and people of colour, and shall conclude this chapter by the following. Mr. J. B. Solger was born in Grenada, the offspring of a French officer and a negress. His father never noticed him, nor ever took any care * One of the most grave, rich and immoral magistrates in Martinieo, had a child by a woman of colour in 1798. In 1802 this child, of whom it was positively asserted that the said magis- trate was the father, ran after him crying " papa, papa .'"" whilst he was riding in Lamentirf. The wretch made his horse trample on the poor child, and struck it with his horsewhip ; saying to the unhappy mother, " this will teach you how to make that little serpent call me father again." 1 FITJAI, AFFFXTION. 397 either of the son or his mother. Thanks to his talents and industry, Mr. Solger has become one of the greatest proprietors in Trinidad ; and this fortune he owes entirely to his own activity and prudence. His father, on the other hand, lost his property and profession, during the troubles which agitated Martinico, in the beginning of the French revolution. Upon this his neglected son allowed the unworthy parent a large pension from the moment he was informed of the loss of his fortune, until the day of his death ! 398 INDIANS. CHAP. X. Indians. — Classed into Caribs and Rarias. — Opinion of Rochefort. — Contradictory Accounts of that Writer. — Analogies. — Religion of the early Tribes. — Sorcery. — Sylvester. — Anecdote. — Curious Dia- logue. — First Establishment of Missions. — Comparison. — Reflec- tions.— Jesuits.— Mission of St. Joseph.— Mass of the Indians.— A Review — Indians of Guiana. — Anecdote. — Degraded State of some Tribes. — Custom of selling their Wives and Children. — Indians of Trinidad. — Their uncivilized State. — Nefario.ua Conduct of some English Proprietors. — The Arrouages. — Their Trade. — Ac- couchement of the Indian Mothers. — Conjectures. — Account of the Black Caribs of St. Vincent's. — Visit to Grand Sable, and curious Description of a Carib Chief. — Concluding Remarks. I distinguish the natives of the South Ameri- can coast, comprised between the mouth of the Amazons and that of the Orinoco, and from that river as far as Cape de Vela, including' those who formerly inhabited the Antilles, in two great classes or principal casts, the Caribs and the Parias. The Arrouages, Arrouakans, or Arroouaks (ac- cording as those words are pronounced by the Spaniards, British, or French), Galibis or Calibites, Guaraouns and Guahiros, appear to be tribes of the fine race of Caribs. A great number of tribes are treated with much contempt by the Caribs and CLASSES. 399 Arroouaks, the two principal nations and rivals of this part of South America. It is very remark- able that Paria should be that cast of all others which they most despise. It appears that the primordial nation was sub- divided previous to the conquest by the Euro- peans, into a great number of tribes which were different from each other in distinct customs and languages, the effects of local causes and national antipathies. Previous to my hazarding some conjectures on the origin of those nations, it will not be impro- per to insert what is said of them by a traveller who visited the Antilles about the middle of the seventeenth century. Rochefort, in his Natural and Moral History of the Antilles, says that the Caribs of his tribe were as ignorant of their own origin, as of monuments of antiquity, and as little curious of the present, as of the future; that the chief part of them believed themselves descended from the G alibis, their allies and great friends, and neighbours of the Arroouaks, in the country known by the name of Guiana. Some of the traditions relative to the origin of the Indians have, it must be confessed, quite the appearance of being fabricated by the European writers of the seventeenth century, who were anxious to make a figure amongst their contem- poraries, as persons occupied in learned researches. Their writings bear an appearance both of cre- dulity and enthusiasm. Rochefort, who col- 400 RELIGIOUS WORSHIP. lected the stories of that time to give them a very clumsy historical form, is full of glaring contra- dictions in his reasoning. For instance, after hav- ing said that the Caribs of the continent peopled the desert Antilles, he says, a moment afterwards, that they exterminated a race of Arroouaks, who were the inhabitants of them. Still there are found both in his relation, and that of Bistok, whom he quotes with great praise, some inte- resting facts for the learned, who are fond of in- quiring into the origin and history of barbarous nations. Some things may excite their curiosity and inquiries, such as the words Carib and Amana, common to the people of Florida and of South America, and to the platforms or elevated plains of those two countries so distant from each other., It also appears by these writers that the Floridans adore the sun ; and that the men did not give it the same name that the women did. The for- mer calling it hayeyou, and the latter kachi ; the sun was the good principle with those people, and they acknowleged a bad principle, which they named mabouya ; a name which they gave to mushrooms, and poisonous plants in general. There are in the Antilles, at St. Lucia, for in- stance, mountains which still bear the name of Maybouya. They offered sacrifices of deer to the good spirit, on elevated places, and made offerings to Mabouya in caverns. They called those offerings anacri. The Caribs worshipped beneficent deities, subordinate to the Great Being ; RELIGIOUS RITES. 401 According to the persons who collected these tra- ditions during the seventeenth century, the wo- men did not give to the inferior beneficent deities the same names as the men ; they called them tchemum, and in the plural tcheminum ; while the men called the spirits of an inferior order je- heiri in both numbers. These names are still found in the superstitions of the savages who live in the neighbourhood of the Orinoco, and in the vallies of the coast range of Cumana, even amongst many of those who frequent the missions. I have never perceived that they worshipped the good spirit or great being during the many years I lived amongst them, with the authority of a chieftain, and enjoying as much of their confi- dence as they could well grant to a white. But, they make many offerings to Mabouya, the bad principle ; or to speak more correctly, to his priests or sorcerers, who unite in their persons all authority and science, the same individual ex- ercising generally the functions of civil and mili- tary chief, priest and physician, until a more clever or a bolder impostor supplants him. Yet these changes never produce any tumult or san- guinary scenes. The various tribes of Indians were independent previous to the arrival of the Europeans ; they waged war against each other, and then, no doubt, it was those who possessed most cunning or courage, that obtained authority. But since these tribes have been subjected or re- strained by the descendants of the Europeans, it d n 402 A SORCERER. is only by trick and knavery that an Indian suc- ceeds in exercising some authority amongst his people. I was enabled to observe a curious in- stance of it in Trinidad. An old Indian, named Sylvester, who was still living when I quitted the island, although blind, exercised an authority almost absolute over the Indians of the north part of the island ; he was about sixty years old in 1806 : he lost his sight in the following curious manner: havinghad a species of ophthalmia in 1792, another sorcerer persuaded him that he had an infallible specific for curing him. On this occasion Syl- vester allowed himself to be deceived by the other cheat ; who blew some powder into his eyes, and scratched them with a thorn of the mauritia acu- leata. When he was convinced, some days after- wards, that he had become blind from the malice of his physician, he ordered him to be brought into his presence, and after having reproached him before the rest of his tribe with the crime, which he attributed to an ambition of succeeding him, he predicted that his rival should die in torments in a few days, as a punishment for the offence. In fact, he did die in the manner Syl- vester had foretold. In pronouncing his male- diction, the impostor added that this outrage, far from destroying his authority and influence, would consolidate them still more, and there is no doubt that the prophecy was fully accom- plished. Though execrated and despised by the Indians, he maintained an absolute sway \ PROPOSITION. 403 merely from the fear with which his malignant practices inspired them. When this abominable old man hears of a pretty Indian girl, he orders that she shall be brought to him, and as jealous as the Indians are of their wives and daughters, still none dare oppose his desires. An Indian would believe himself damned if he consented to serve a white man as hunter, fisher or servant, without having obtained permission of Captain Sylvester, (for that is the title he has chosen) and this per- mission is only to be obtained by making him pre- sents. While I held the office of corregidor in his neighbourhood, which gave me authority over him, I employed the means of persuasion, rather successfully to dissipate the fascination and fears of the Indians. When he found his authority nearly extinct, he caused himself to be conducted to my house one day, and requested a private conference, which I granted, he then without further preamble, proposed to divide his autho- rity with me. I appeared to enter into his views, on condition that he would initiate me into his magical secrets ; to which he readily consented. This first interview took place in the morning : I invited him to dine with me, on condition that he was to reveal his secrets after dinner. Whilst waiting for the hour of dinner, I went to the village to propose to some of the most superstitious amongst the Indians, and some others of those who were the least so, to come and be witnesses of what was to pass between us. They agreed to it, uu2 404 CONVERSATIONS. even to his brother Antonio, who has as much good nature and frankness in his disposition, as Syl- vester has cruelty and perfidy. I recommended them to maintain a profound silence, and placed them in a room, from whence they could see and hear all that passed between the sorcerer and myself. After having enlivened him with a good dinner, and a few glasses of claret and Madeira, our conversation turned on his knowledge of magic. He supposed himself alone with me. " Is it not true, Sylvester," said I, " that you would not pass for so great a magician if your followers were not such silly creatures ? It is not to reproach you that I say this ; you are very right in taking advantage of the superiority of your genius. It is the same amongst us — men of talents live at the expence of fools." " Let me have another glass of Madeira, and a cigar," replied Sylvester, with the usual smile of deceit upon his countenance, " and I shall then in- struct you in all I know about jt." He now made a pompous display of his knowledge of plants, and of his talent at employing them in the cure of dis- eases, wounds, ulcers, began to chat as if we had known each other for years. The pleasure of having escaped from a gang of robbers, in Saint Lucia, who had con- spired to murder me, the balh, sprightliness of my hosts, the view of a beautiful country, and an air perfumed with the odoriferous plants of the Caribs' gardens, situated on both banks of this re- freshing stream, soon restored my strength, which had been exhausted with vexation, and by more than one bad night's rest. I soon arrived at the house of Larose, the name of my host. It was only a short time before I had seen the Indians of Trini- dad, almost strangers to agriculture ; but here the properties of the Caribs were divided by hedges of orange trees, perfectly well kept, and their gardens filled with all the beautiful plants of the country. Their houses had an appearance of ele- gant simplicity, and were provided with all that could be necessary for comfort and convenience ; that of Larose was the handsomest of this village ; it was built of squared timber, and covered with shingles ; a gallery ran in front, and it was divided into three rooms, of which that in the A RENCONTRE. 433 middle served as a saloon. Here a hammock was slung for me, and after we entered Larose, shak- ing my hand in the English style, said, " you are now at home, therefore make yourself as easy and comfortable as you can." After this compli- ment he introduced to me one of his wives, who was very well dressed, like the women of colour in our colonies. " Bonjoumouche, good morning to you sir," said she, making a low curtesy, " bon jou, ma chee ; et bon Die ! qui ce qui mene vous dans pays cy ! Si mouee pas trompc, vous mila- tr esse la MartineqV " Good morning, my dear ; and in God's name ! what has brought you to this place ! If I am not mistaken you are a mulatto of Martinico?" — Et oui, cht metre', " So lam, my dear sir," she replied with a melancholy and languishing look. " I am going out for some moments to settle some business," said Larose to rne, " and shall leave this prattler to attend you during my absence." I then prevailed on the lady to sit beside my hammock, and relate her adventures amongst the Caribs. The history of poor Marguerite is not long. Ten years ago, when at the age of twenty, she was then very pretty, and had not much pre- dilection for black lovers. Larose, who traded with Saint Lucia and Martinico, paid his addresses to her, and proposed taking her with him to Saint Vincent's, where she would be a great lady amongst the Caribs. She suffered herself to be p v 434 A GRASS WIDOW. persuaded : but, alas ! the chaste Helen was not aware that there are Caribs who have as many as three or four wives! "How do they manage, my friend," said I, with a significant smile, " to make you all happy? " Ah, my dear youth," she replied, with tears in her eyes, " look out at the window, and you will see three huts in the garden there." — " So that in every three weeks you are a widow for a fortnight ?" " Yes," said she, pressing my hand and rolling her eyes affectionately : " it was so at first ; but it is long since Larose has ceased to think of me !" Looking out I saw the black bashaw in the gallery with his two favourites, who were laugh- ing heartily at our dialogue : happily poor Mar- guerite, whose back was turned to the door, did not see them. Entering soon after, " come, come, carrion" said he, " instead of prating with this white, and making love to him, you would do much better to prepare our dinner. There is a fowl I have just killed, and some fish: make us also a crab soup." 1 endeavoured to prevail on Larose to treat his old favourite with less severity, but his only reply was a loud laugh. He next intro- duced to me his two young sultanas, one of whom was about seventeen ; both were handsome, and formed like nymphs, the whole of their dress consisted of chintz petticoats, and Madras yellow, green, and red hankerchiefs on their heads, which seemed very well suited to their bronze complexions. A CARIB DINNER 435 They now began to prepare a salad, rincethe hand- some cut glasses, and make punch. During this time M. Larose smoked his cigar and swangin his hammock ; looking somewhat maliciously at me, he gave warning that those two, pointing to his young protegees, u were forbidden fruit !" A great many Caribs now arrived, and I had to shake hands with each of them, according as they came in to see me : they sat down round the room, while Larose and myself placed ourselves at table, at- tended by his three concubines. In addition to the crab soup, we had stewed and fried fish, a roasted fowl with salad ; bananas, cassava, and potatoes, were substituted for bread : excellent fruits, wine, rum and beer, covered the table after the repast. Such was the dinner of a Carib trader ; it was served on very fine white table linen, and in dishes and plates of Wedgewood's ware, with silver forks, spoons, &c. We had just finished our meal, when T saw a Carib enter, of about six feet high ; his dress con- sisted of a blue check shirt, and a round hat orna- mented with a plume of variegated feathers. He carried a musquet in his hand, had a large sabre by his side, while a silver case hung to his belt. The stranger had the look and air of one accustomed to command. Larose rising mysteriously, whis- pered, " this is Captain Lavalle, our king." I rose to salute his majesty: he advanced and offer- ed me his hand, complimenting me on my arrival in f i 2 436 A ltOYAL VISITOR, his states, which had an extent of five leagues long by three in breadth ! "My residence is some distance from hence," said he : u I was hunting in the neigh- bourhood, when I heard of your arrival : if I had not been so far from home, I would hare put on my red breeches and uniform of a French marshal, which the king of France sent me with the order of Saint Louis, during the American war." He now invited me to be seated, and took the place of his lieutenant general, Larose, who remained standing respectfully, without uttering a word. The other Caribs, however, did not rise on the entrance of their chief, nor did they show him any kind of honour. But Larose was half-civilized, and a courtier. " Be seated," said the prince to him ; " I am going to assist in finishing your mess." When he had satisfied his appetite, we toasted and drank together : after which he recounted his feats during the American war : it was then that M. de Bouille had sent him the uniform, cross, and decorations of a French marshal, with a letter from Louis XVI. After repeating the above circumstance, he took the silver box which hung by his side, opened it, and showed me a letter from the king, written, I have no doubt, at Martinico, in which that monarch thanked gossip Lavalle for the good and agreeable services which he had ren- dered him : the monarch next insisted that I should sleep at his house. By this time I saw clearly he was tormented with an anxiety to display himself AND PORTRAIT. 437 to me in all his pomp ; I therefore acceded to his request. Presented to his family as the aid de camp of a general, I was received with great honours. His house was built like that of Larose, but larger ; he had five or six negro slaves, who cultivated coffee, cotton, arnotto, cocoa and pro- visions. Three women, by whom he had ten children, of different ages, composed his family. Whilst I was chatting with his sons, who spoke French and Creole-English, lo and behold his majesty re-enter, resplendent in magnificence ! On his bronzed front was a large cocked hat, with a white feather, a cockade of the same co- lour, surmounted with a button of German pebble as large as a coffee cup, ordered to be made ex- pressly for him by Louis XVI. and which had cost one hundred thousand crowns ! His coat was that of a general officer, with enormous epau- lettes, and laced on every seam : from one of the button-holes of this dress, a gold cross was sus- pended by a red ribband, it was the insignia of St. Louis ; a large star of gold and silver on the breast, convinced me that he was also a knight of the Holy Roman Empire ! His majesty wore two other orders, of which I could not ascertain the names ; a red waistcoat bedaubed with gold ; scarlet breeches laced on the seams ; boots with red morocco tops, and ornamented with an enor- mous pair of copper spurs, which had once been gilt, completed this singular costume ; he wore no 438 A REGAL SUPPEtt. stockings ; but collars with little bells, such as are put on lap-dogs, ornamented his ancles ! I really believe that there never was a happier sovereign than Lavalle thought himself at this mo- ment : he paraded about the gallery : directing his piercing sight towards the sea, he saw in the twink- ling of an eye, the extent of his territories from east to west, and from north to south. Supper was announced by a discharge of artillery, which con- sisted of two swivels. He constantly took out his snuff-box to offer me a pinch, and provoked at my not admiring that beautiful trinket, he desired me to examine it well. It was of an enormous size and silver gilt, ornamented with a bad portrait of Louis XVI. set with German pebbles, another article made expressly for him, and which he also believed to have cost one hundred thousand crowns. But he shewed me some arms that were really magnificent, and from the Versailles manu- factory. After having passed a good night in a royal hammock, I received, in the morning, a visit from my friend Larose, who came to conduct me to M. Augier, a French proprietor in the environs of Kingston. All Lavalle's cavalry consisted of a mule and an ass, which he offered to escort me in the most gracious manner ; but I preferred performing the journey on foot, as far as the residence of Mr. Clapham, the nearest proprietor to the Caribs, and whose good nature was so highly praised by Larose MR. CLAP HAM. 139 that I took my chance, stranger and unknown as I was, to request the loan of ahorse. Though I was not very genteelly dressed, I was received in the kindest manner by Mr. Clapham, who not only invited me to breakfast with him, but lent me a horse to take me to my destination. I was then far from suspecting that this unfortunate gentleman, who was so eulogized by the Caribs, should be, two years afterwards, the first victim immolated by those very men ! It does not form a part of my plan to give the history of this war of the Caribs against the inhabitants of St. Vin- cent's. I must, however, do the latter the justice to say, that they had done nothing to provoke the aggressions of the savages. This colony is not like some others, peopled with the refuse and scum of the British nation. Though it has belonged to Great Britain for a long time, it is only since the American war it has acquired its actual colonial importance. The governors, Sir William Young, and Mr. Melville, who have made so many improvements there, were men of rare virtue and merit : such characters have always a great influence on the manners of a new society; so that this has been composed of re- spectable persons who went from Europe, Anti- gua, and St. Christopher's, colonies composed of people of good dispositions, General Sir Ralph Abercrombie put an end, in 1797, to this cruel war, which had been com- dUft 440 CUSTOMS. menced in 1795, when, as already observed, all the Black Caribs of St. Vincent's who remained alive, were transported, in British vessels, to the Island of Rattan. Those Caribs have adopted many customs of the Red Caribs, amongst others that of flattening the foreheads of new-born infants.* But they are not indolent like them, and they surpass the Indians on the score of intellect. Each family has its territorial property, which is inclosed with hedges, and carefully cultivated. The men apply themselves as much to agriculture as the women. They do not like to be called negroes, and con- sider this term as a gross insult, no doubt because the negroes, their neighbours, are in slavery. It is flattering to them to be called Caribs,, and it is * This singular process is performed in the following manner : when a Carib mother feels the pains of child-birth she proceeds, as before described, to the nearest river; for all their villages that I have seen, are either on the banks or very contiguous to a stream of running water. After the ceremony of bathing is over, and the parties reach their hut, they place the head of the child between two very smooth boards, as far as the root of the nose ; these boards arc about eight inches long, and fastened together with cords applied at each end; they arc not removed from the infant's head for nine days, which is perhaps one reason why so many children die of lock jaw and convulsions at this tender age. After the tenth day the boards are only applied during the night, but they are not totally discontinued till the period of weaning, which usually takes place at the age of fifteen or eighteen months. Nearly all the Caribs who have embraced Christianity have re- nounced this strange custom. CONCLUSION. 441 probably for the purpose of resembling the latter still more, that besides the flattening of the fore- head, they have also adopted the custom of tattoo- ing themselves with arnotto* The Black Caribs have not embraced Christi- anity : the few religious ideas they have, are a mixture of the Fetishism of the negroes, and the superstitions of the ancient Caribs : like the latter, they believe in a good and a bad principle. END OF DESCRIPTION, &C, APPENDIX. APPENDIX. OFFICIAL DOCUMENTS, &c. Alluded to in the Introduction, illustrative of the fore- going Work, and to which the attention of the Public is particularly requested. No. I. Proclamation of General Sir Thomas Picton, Governor of Trinidad, first circulated amongst the Spanish Co- lonies near that Island, in 1797, and which has been already quoted in the Introduction.* By virtue of an official paper, which I, the governor of this island of Trinidad, have received from the Right Honourable Henry Dundas, minister of His Britannic Majesty, for Foreign Affairs, dated April 7, 1797, which 1 here publish, in obedience to orders, and for the use which your Excellencies may draw from its publication, in order that you may communicate its tenour, which is literally as follows. " The object which, at present, I desire most particularly to recommend to your attention, is, the means which might be most adapted to liberate the people of the continent near to the Island of Trinidad, * These important papers, with the exception of the extracts from the Supreme Chief's Speech, are reprinted from the Expose, and ano- ther book, containing public documents, published by Mr. William Walton, who has done much towards elucidating the past and present condition of Spanish America. 446 APPENDIX. from the oppressive and tyrannic system, which supports, with so much rigour, the monopoly of commerce, under the title of exclusive registers, which their government licences demand; also to draw the greatest advantages possible, and which the local situation of the island pre- sents, by opening a direct and free communication with the other parts of the world, without prejudice to the commerce of the British nation. In order to fulfil this intention with greater facility, it will be prudent for your Excellency to animate the inhabitants of Trinidad, in keeping up the communication which they had with those of Terra Firma, previous to the reduction of that island, under the assurance, that they will find there an entrepot, or general magazine of every sort of goods whatever. To this end, His Britannic Majesty has determined, in coun- cil, to grant freedom to the port of Trinidad, with a direct trade to Great Britain. With regard to the hopes you entertain of raising the spirits of those persons, with whom you are in corre- spondence, towards animating the inhabitants, to resist the oppressive authority of their government, I have little more to say, than that they may be certain, that whenever they are in that disposition, they may receive at your hands, all the succours to be expected from H. B. Ma- jesty ; be it with forces, or with arms and ammunition to any extent ; with the assurance, that the views of II. B. Majesty, go no further than to secure to them their inde- pendence, without pretending to any sovereignty over their country, nor evpn to interfere in the privileges of the people, nor in their political, civil, or religious rights. (Signed) THOMAS FICTON. Port Spain, Trinidad, June 26, IT97. APPENDIX. 417 No. II. It is the opinion of onr immortal countryman Locke, " that all legitimate government is derived from the con- sent of the people, that men are naturally equal, and that no one has a right to injure another in his life, health, liberty, or possessions, and that no man, in civil society, ought to be subject to the arbitrary will of others, but only to known and established laws, made by general con- sent, for the common benefit. That no taxes are to be levied on the people, without the consent of the majority, given by themselves, or by their deputies. That the ruling power ought to govern by declared and received laws, and not by extemporary dictates, and undetermined reso- lutions. That kings and princes, magistrates, and rulers of every class, have no just authority but what is dele- gated to them by the people ; and which when not em- ployed for their benefit, the people have always a right to resume in whatever hands it may be placed. " That revolutions happen not upon every little mis- management of public affairs. Great mistakes in the ruling part, many wrong and inconvenient laws, and all the slips of human frailty, will be borne by the people without mutiny or murmur. But if a long train of abuses, prevarications, and artifices, all tending the same way, make the design visible to the people, and they cannot but feel what they lie under, and see whither they are going, it is not to be wondered, that they should then rouze themselves, and endeavour to put the rule into such hands which may secure to them the ends for which go- vernment was at first erected; and without which, ancient names and specious forms, are so far from being better, that they are much worse than the state of nature, or pure anarchy, the inconveniencies being as great, and as near, but the remedy further off, and more difficult." 448 APl'LNDIX. No. III. ACT OF INDEPENDENCE In the Name of the All-powerful God, We the Representatives of the United Provinces of Caracas, Cumana, Varinas, Margarita, Barcelona, Merida, and Truxillo, forming the American Confederation of Venezuela, in the South Continent, in Congress assembled, considering the full and absolute possession of our Rights, which we recovered justly and legally from the 19th of April, 1810, in consequence of the occurrences in Bayonne, and the occupation of the Spanish Throne by conquest, and the succession of a new Dynasty, constituted without our consent ; are desirous, before we make use of those Rights, of which we have been deprived by force for more than three centuries, but now restored to us by the poli- tical order of human events, to make known to the world the reasons which have emanated from these same occur- rences, and which authorise us in the free use we are now about to make of our own Sovereignty. We do not wish, nevertheless, to begin by ailedging the rights inherent in every conquered country, to recover its state of property and independence ; we generously for- get the long series of ills, injuries, and privations, which the sad right of conquest has indistinctly caused, to all the descendants of the Discoverers, Conquerors, and Settlers of these Countries, plunged into a worse state by the very same cause that ought to have favoured them ; and, draw- ing a veil over the three hundred years of Spanish dominion in America, we will now only present to view the authentic and well-known facts, which ought to have wrested from one world, the right over the other, by the inver- sion, disorder, and conquest, that have already dissolved the Spanish Nation. This disorder has increased the ills of America, by APPENDIX. 449 rendering void its claims and remonstrances, enabling the Governors of Spain to insult and oppress this part of the Nation, thus leaving it without the succour and guarantee of the laws. It is contrary to order, impossible to the Government of Spain, and fatal to the welfare of America, that the latter, possessed of a range of country infinitely more ex- tensive, and a population incomparably more numerous, should depend and be subject to a peninsular corner of the European continent. The cessions and abdications at Bayonne, the Revolu- tions of the Escurial and Aranjuez, and the Orders of the Royal Substitute, the Duke of Berg, sent to America, suffice to give virtue to the rights, which till then the Americans had sacrificed to the unity and integrity of the Spanish Nation. Venezuela was the first to acknowledge, and gene- rously to preserve, this integrity; not to abandon the cause of its brothers, as long as the same retained the least hope of salvation. America was called into a new existence, since she could, and ought, to take upon herself the charge of her own fate and preservation ; as Spain might acknowledge, or not, the rights of a King, who had preferred his own existence to the dignity of the Nation over which he governed. All the Bourbons concurred to the invalid stipula- tions of Bayonne, abandoning Spain, against the will of the People ; — they violated, disdained, and tram- pled on the sacred duty they had contracted with the Spaniards of both Worlds, when with their bJood and treasure they had placed them on the Throne, in despite of the House of Austria. By such a conduct, they were left disqualified and incapable of governing a Free Peo- ple, whom they delivered up like a flock of slaves. Notwithstanding our protests, our moderation, gene- rosity, and the inviolability of our principles, contrary to the wishes of our brethren in Europe, we were declared G G 450 APPENDIX. in a state of rebellion ; we were blockaded ; war was de- clared against us ; agents were sent amongst us, to excite us one against the other, endeavouring to take away our credit with the other Nations of Europe, by imploring their assistance to oppress us. Without taking the least notice of our reasons, without presenting them to the impartial judgment of the world, und without any other judges than our own enemies, we are condemned to a mournful incommunication with our brethren: and, to add contempt to calumny, empowered agents are named for us, against our own express will, that in their Cortes they may arbitrarily dispose of our interests, under the influence and force of our enemies. In order to crush and suppress the effects of our Repre- sentation, when they were obliged to grant it to us, we were submitted to a paltry and diminutive scale; and the form of election was subjected to the passive voice of the Municipal Bodies, degraded by the despotism of the Go- vernors: which amounted to an insult on our plain dealing and good faith, more than to a consideration of our incon- testible political importance. Always deaf to the cries of justice on our part, the Governments of Spain have endeavoured to discredit all our efforts, by declaring as criminal, and stamping with infamy, and rewarding with the scaffold and confiscation, every attempt, which at different periods some Americans have made, for the felicity of their country: as was that which lately our own security dictated to us, that we might not be driven into a state of disorder which we foresaw, and hurried to that horrid fate which wc are about to remove for ever from before us. By means of such atrocious policy, they have succeeded in making our brethren insensible to our misfortunes ; in arming them against us ; in erasing from their bosoms the tender im- pressions of friendship, of consanguinity ; and converting into enemies a part of our own great family. In this mournful alternative we have remained three years, in a state of political indecision and ambiguity, so APPENDIX. 451 fatal and dangerous, that this alone would suffice to au- thorise the resolution, which the faith of our promises and the bonds of fraternity had caused us to defer, till neces- sity has obliged us to go beyond what we at first pro- posed, impelled by the hostile and unnatural conduct of the Governments of Spain, which have disburdened us of our conditional oath, by which circumstance, we are called to the august representation we now exercise. But we, who glory in grounding our proceedings on better principles, and not wishing to establish our felicity on the misfortunes of our fellow-beings, do consider and declare as friends, companions of our fate, and participa- tors of our felicity, those who, united to us by the ties of blood, language, and religion, have suffered the same evils in the anterior order of things, provided they ac- knowledge our absolute independence of the same, and of any other foreign power whatever ; that they aid us to sustain it with their lives, fortune, and sentiments ; de- claring aud acknowledging them (as well as to every other nation), in war enemies, and in peace friends, brothers, and co-patriots. In consequence of all these solid, public, and incontes- tible reasons of policy, which so powerfully urge the ne- cessity of recovering our natural dignity, restored to us by the order of events; and in compliance with the impre- scriptible rights enjoyed by nations, to destroy every pact, agreement, or association, which does not answer the pur- poses for which governments were established ; we be- lieve that we cannot, nor ought not, to preserve the bonds which hitherto kept us united to the Government of Spain ; and that, like all the other nations of the world, we are free, and authorised not to depend on any other authority than our own, and to take amongst the powers of the earth the place of equality which the Supreme Be- ing and Nature assign to us, and to which we are called by the succession of human events, and urged by our own good and utility. Notwithstanding we are aware of the difficulties that g g 2 452 APPENDIX. attend, and the obligations imposed upon us, by the rank we are about to take in the political order of the world ; as well as the powerful influence of forms and habitudes, to which unfortunately we have been accustomed ; we at the same time know, that the shameful submission to them, when we can throw them off, would be still more ignominious for us, and more fatal to our posterity, than our long and painful slavery ; and that it now becomes an indispensable duty to provide for our own preservation, security, and felicity, by essentially varying all the forms of our former constitution. In consequence whereof, considering, by the reasons thus alledged, that we have satisfied the respect which we owe to the opinions of the human race, and the dignity of other nations, in the number of whom we are about to enter, and on whose communication and friendship we rely : We, the Representatives of the United Provinces of Venezuela, calling on the SUPREME BEING to witness the justice of our proceedings and the rectitude of our intentions, do implore his divine and celestial help ; and ratifying, at the moment in which we are born to the dignity which his Providence restores to us, the desire we have of living and dying free, and of believing and de- fending the holy Catholic and Apostolic Religion of Jesus Christ. We, therefore, in the name and by the will and authority which we hold from the virtuous People of Venezuela, DO declare solemnly to the world, that its united Provinces are, and ought to be, from this day, by act and right, Freej Sovereign, and Independent States ; and that they are absolved from every submission and dependence on the Throne of Spain, or on those who do, or may call themselves its Agents and Representatives ; and that a free and independent State, thus constituted, has full power to take that form of Government which may be conformable to the general will of the People — to declare war, make peace, form alliances, regulate treaties of commerce, limits, and navigation ; and to do and transact every act, in like manner as other free and APPENDIX. 453 independent States. And that this, our solemn Declara- tion, may be held valid, firm, and durable, we hereby mu- tually bind each Province to the other, and pledge our lives, fortunes, and the sacred tie of our national honour. Done in the Federal Palace of Caracas ; signed by our hands, sealed with the great Provisional Seal of the Con- federation, and countersigned by the Secretary of Con- gress, this 5th day of July, 1811, the first of our Indepen- dence. [Here follow the signatures of forty deputies; also a confirmatory decree signed by the President and other principal Ministers of the Republic] No. IV. Correspondence between General Hodgson, Governor of Curacoa, and General Bolivar of Venezuela, respect- ing certain Spanish prisoners, and in which those who have either through ignorance or malevolence charged the Supreme Chief with cruelty, will find a complete and circumstantial refutation of their calumnies. Government House, Cura9oa, September 4, 1813. Sir, Having been informed that many European Spaniards, are now confined in the prisons of La Guira and Caracas, in consequence of the part they took in the late unfortunate disturbances of Venezuela, and who pos- sibly may suffer death ; I have the honour to address you on this subject. Although I am perfectly sure, from the well known humanity of your character, that you will take no measure of that kind, nevertheless, as there may be persons vested with the authority, in the above places, who may not be possessed of your generous sentiments, and who may, perhaps, from erroneous principles, recur to acts of cruelty, I esteem it a duty of humanity to inter- cede in their favour, and request you to grant them pass- mnnm 454 APPENDIX. ports to leave the province. The brave are always mer- ciful. I am, &c. (Signed) J. HODGSON. To Don Simon Bolivar, 2 458 APPENDIX. interposes your respectable mediation, for the most fero- cious monsters, the authors of all these evils. Your Ex- cellency may believe me, when the troops of New Gra- nada, under my command, came to avenge nature and society so much outraged, neither the instructions of the beneficent government of that piace, nor my designs, were to exercise the right of reprisal on the Spaniards, who, under the title of insurgents, were carrying all the Americans, worthy of that name, to infamous execution, or to torture still more cruel and infamous. But seeing these tygers sport with our noble clemency, and secure in their impunity, continue, even when conquered, the same sanguinary fierceness, 1 then, in order to fulfil the holy commission confided to my responsibility, and to savethe threatened lives of my fellow-countrymen, made an effort to divest myself of my natural sensibility, and to sacrifice the sentiments of a pernicious clemency, to the safety of my country. May your Excellency permit me to recommend to you, the perusal of the letter of the ferocious Zerveris, the idol of the Spaniards in Venezuela, to General Monteverde, contained in the Caracas Gazette, No. 3 : you will there discover, the sanguinary plans which these wicked people intended to effect. Being informed, before hand, of their sacrilegious intentions, which a cruel experience, imme- diately ^ afterwards, confirmed, I resolved to carry on a death war, in order to deprive these tyrants, of the incomparable advantage which their destructive system offered. On my army opening the campaign in the province of Varinas, unfortunately, Colonel Antonio Nicolas Briseno, and other officers of distinction, were taken, whom the barbarous and cowardly Tiscar had shot, in the number of sixteen. Similar spectacles, were repeated in Calabozo, Espino, Cumana, and other provinces, accompanied by such circumstances of inhumanity, that I conceive the repetition of such abominable scenes, unworthy of your Excellency and of this letter. APPENDIX. 459 Your Excellency may see a slight sketch of the fero- cious acts, in which Spanish cruelly satiated itself, in the Caracas Gazette, No. 4. The general massacre rigo- rously committed in the peaceful town of Aragua, by the most brutal of men, the detestable Zuazola, is one of those phrenzied and sanguinary acts of blindness, which have seldom degraded humanity. There were seen, men and women, old and young, with their ears cut off, some skinned alive, and then cast into venomous lakes, or assas- sinated by painful and slow means. Nature, was even attacked in its most innocent origin, and the unborn, were destroyed in the wombs of their mothers, by blows and stabs of the bayonet. San Juan de los Moros, an agricultural and innocent town, presented similar spectacles and equally agreeable to the Spaniards, committed by the barbarous Antonan- zas and the sanguinary Boves. Still, are there to be seen, in the fields of that unhappy country, the dead bodies suspended on the trees. The genius of crime, there appears to hold his empire of death, to whom no one could ap- proach, without feeling the furies of his implacable ven- geance. But it is not Venezuela, alone, that has been the theatre of these horrid butcheries. The opulent Mexico, Buenos Ayres, and Peru, as well as the unhappy Quito, are scarcely to be compared to any thing else, than to so many vast charnel-houses, where the Spanish government assembles the bones of those, who have fallen under its murdering steel. Your Excellency may find in Gazette, No. 2, the basis on which a Spaniard founds the honour of his nation. The letter of Father Vicente Marquetich affirms, that the sword of Regales in the field, and on the scaffold, has immolated 12,000 Americans in one year, and shews, that the glory of the navy officer Rosendo Porlier, consists in his universal system of not giving quarter ; even to the saints, were they to appear before him in the dress of insurgents. 460 APPENDIX. I refrain from shocking the sensibility of your Excel- lency, by prolonging the picture of the enormities which Spanish barbarity has committed against humanity, in order to establish an unjust and shameful dominion over the unoffending Americans. Would to God, that an im- penetrable veil could hide from the knowledge of man, the excesses of his fellow-beings. Oh ! that a cruel neces- sity did not impose upon us, the inviolable duty of exter- minating such treacherous assassins ! Let your Excellency place yourself, for a moment, in our situation, and then ask, what kind of conduct ought to be observed towards our oppressors ? Let your Excel- lency then decide, whether the freedom of America, can ever be secured, as long as such obstinate enemies breathe. Fatal experience, daily urges us to the harshest measures ; and even I might add, that humanity itself dictates them. Placed, by my strongest sentiments, under the necessity of being clement with many Spaniards, after having left them amongst us at full liberty, and when their heads were scarcely free from the avenging knife, they have stirred up the unfortunate people, and perhaps, the atro- cities recently committed by them, equal the most horrid of the whole. In the valleys of Tuy andTacats, and in the towns of the West, where one would have thought, that civil war could never have carried its desolating ravages, these wretches have already raised lamentable monuments of their savage cruelly. =& Even women, young children, the aged, have been found skinned, with their eyes and entrails torn out ; nay, one would be induced to think, that the tyrants of America were not of the human species. In vain, would you solicit in favour of those who are now detained in our prisons, passports for your island, or * These circumstances principally allude to the enormities com- mitted by the armed slaves on their masters, whom till now the civil war had scarcely disturbed. APPENDIX. 4G1 for any other point out of Venezuela. To the great injury of the public peace, we have already experienced the fatal consequences of this measure ; for we can assert, that almost all who have obtained passports, notwithstanding the oaths by which they were bound, have disembarked on the points in possession of the enemy, in order again to enlist themselves in the parties of assassins, which disturb these defenceless towns. In their very prisons, they are plotting subversive projects, undoubtedly more fatal for themselves, than for a government, obliged to use its efforts, more to repress the fury of the zealous patriots against the seditious who threaten their lives, than to disconcert the black machinations of the former. Your Excellency may be able to judge, whether the Americans ought to suffer themselves to be patiently ex- terminated, or whether they are to destroy an iniquitous race, which as long as it breathes is incessantly labouring at our destruction. Your Excellency is not mistaken in supposing in me, sentiments of compassion ; the same characterise all my countrymen. We could compassionate the Caffres of Africa; but Spanish tyrants, contrary to the most power- ful sentiments of the heart, impel us to reprisals. Ame- rican justice, will, nevertheless, at all times, know how to distinguish the innocent from the guilty ; and even the latter, shall be treated with all the humanity due to the Spanish nation. I have the honour to, &c. (Signed) SIMON BOLIVAR. To the Governor of Curayoa, &c. &c. &c. <1G2 APPENDIX. No. V. Act of Installation of the Second Congress of Venezuela. In Ihe City of St. Thomas of Angostura on the fifteenth day of the month of February, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and nineteen, ninth of the independence of Venezuela, at half-past ten iu the morn- ing, were assembled in virtue of a summons of the Su- preme Chief of the Republic, Simon Bolivar, in the Government Palace, for the Installation of the Sovereign National Congress, convoked by the said Supreme Chief on the twenty-second day of October last. The Supreme Chief opened the Session with reading a long Speech, the chief object of which was to explain the fundamental principles of the project of a Constitution he presented to the Congress, and to shew that it was the best adapted to our country. He spoke very briefly of his own administration under the most difficult circum- stances, intimating that the Secretaries of State would give an account of their respective departments, and ex- hibit the documents necessary for illustrating the real and actual state of the Republic, and only enlarged when re- commending to the Congress the confirmation of theLiberty , granted to the slaves without any restriction whatever — the Institution of the Order of Liberators — and the Law for the division of the National Property amongst the Defenders of the Country, as the only reward for their heroic services. He likewise charged the Congress in the most particular manner to turn its serious attention to the funding of the National Debt, and providing means for its speedy extinction, as was due in gratitude, justice, and honour. On his Speech being ended, he added, " The Congress of Venezuela is installed, — in it from this moment is centered the National Sovereignty ; my sword (grasping APPENDIX. 46.3 it) and those of ray illustrious Fellows-in-Arms are ever ready to maintain its august authority. God save the Congress of Venezuela." At this expression, several times repeated by the crowd, a salute of artillery was fired. The Supreme Chief then invited the Congress to pro- ceed to the election of an Interim President, that he might deliver up to him his command. The Deputy Francisco Antonio Zea having been elected by acclamation, his Excellency took the oath on the Holy Evangelists, and in which he was followed by all the Members, succes- sively. When his Excellency had taken the oath, he placed the President in the Chair which he had himself occupied under the canopy, and addressing the military, said, " Generals, Chiefs, and Officers, my Fellows-in-Arms, we are nothing more than simple citizens until the Sove- reign Congress condescend to employ us in the classes and ranks agreeable to them ; reckoning on your submis- sion, I am about to give them, in your names and my own, the most manifest proof of our obedience, by deli- vering up the command entrusted to me." On saying which he approached the President of the Congress, and presenting his staff of offiee, continued, "I return to the Republic the General's Staff, entrusted to me — to serve in whatever rank or class the Congress may place me, can- not but be honourable ; — in it I shall give an example of that subordination and blind obedience which ought to characterize every Soldier of the Republic." The Presi- dent, addressing the Congress, said, " The confirmation of all the ranks and offices conferred by his Excellency General Simon Bolivar, during his command, does not appear to admit of any discussion ; I however request the express approval of the Congress for declaring it. Is the Congress of opinion that the ranks and offices conferred by his Excellency General Simon Bolivar, as Supreme Chief of the Republic, be confirmed ?" All the Deputies standing up, answered yes, and the President continued : " The Sovereign Congress of the Republic confirms in the r./iv,^w./.-.' 464 APPENDIX person of his Excellency the Captain General Simon Bolivar, all the ranks and offices conferred by him during his Government," — and returning him the staff, placed him in the seat on his right. After a silence of some moments, the President spoke as follows : — " The artless splendour of the noble act of patriotism, of which General Bolivar has just given so illustrious and memorable an example, stamps on this solemnity a cha- racter of antiquity, and is a presage of the lofty destinies of our country. Neither Rome nor Athens, nor even Sparta, in the purest days of heroism and public virtue, ever presented so sublime and so interesting a scene. The imagination rises in contemplating it, ages and distances disappear, and we think ourselves contemporary with the Aristides, the Phocions, the Camillus', and the Epami- nondas of other days. The same philanthropy and the same liberal sentiments which united to the Republican Chiefs of high antiquity, those beneficent Emperors, Ves- pasian, Titus, Trajan, and Marcus Aurelius, who so wor- thily trod the same path, will to-day place amongst them this modest General, and with them he will shine in history, and receive the benedictions of posterity. It is not now that the sublime trait of patriotic virtue, which we have witnessed and admire, can be duly appreciated ; when our Institutions will have had the sanction of time, when every thing weak, and little in our days, when pas- sions, interests, and vanities will have disappeared, and great deeds and great men alone remain, then the abdica- tion of General Bolivar will receive all the justice it so richly merits, and his name will be mentioned with pride ' in Venezuela, and with veneration throughout the universe. Forgetting every thing he has achieved for the establish- ment of our liberties — eight years of affliction and dangers — the sacrifice of his fortune and repose — indescribable fatigues and hardships — exertions of which scarcely a similar example can be quoted from history, that constancy proof against every reverse — that invincible firmness in never despairing of the' salvation of our country, even *r>PENLMX. 465 when he saw her subjugated, and he destitute and alone forgetting, I say, so many claims to immortality, to fix his attention only on what we have seen and admired. If the had renounced the Supreme Authority when it pre- sented nothing but troubles and dangers ; when it brought on his head insults and calumnies, and when it appeared nothing more than an empty name, although it would not have been praise-worthy, it would at least have been prudent ; but to do it at the very moment when the authority begins to enjoy some attractions in the eyes of ambition, and when every thing forebodes a speedy and fortunate issue to our desires, and to do it of himself, from the pure love of liberty, is a deed so heroic, and so splendid, that I doubt whether it ever had an equal, and. despair of its ever being imitated. But what ! shall we allow General Bolivar to rise so much above his fellow- citizens, as to oppress them with his glory, and not at least endeavour to compete with him in noble and patri- otic sentiments, by not •permitting him to quit the pre- cincts of this august assembly without re-investing him with the same authority, which he had relinquished in order to maintain liberty inviolable, but which was in fact the way to risk it ?" " No, no," replied General Bolivar, with energy and animation, " never will I take upon me again an authority which from my heart I have renounced for ever on principle and sentiment." He con- tinued explaining the dangers which Liberty would be exposed to, by continuing for a length of time the same man in possession of the chief authority ; he shewed the necessity of guarding against the views of every ambitious person, and even against his own, as he could not be sure of always acting and thinking in the same way, and finished his speech with protesting in the strongest and most decisive tone, that in no case, and on no considera- tion, would he ever accept an authority which he had so sincerely and so cordially renounced, in order to secure to his country the blessings of Liberty. His reply being ended, he begged permission to retire, to which the H H 466 APPENDIX. President acceded, and appointed a Deputation of ten Members to conduct him. A discussion then took place in the Congress about the nomination of an Interim President of the Republic, but several difficulties arisiDg in the election, it was agreed that General Bolivar should exercise that power for twenty-four, or at most for eight and forty hours, and a Deputation, with General Marino at their head, was sent to communicate the resolution. General Bolivar replied that it was only in consideration of the urgency of the case, that he accepted the charge, and on the'' precise condition that it should only be for the time fixed. This important business being disposed of, and the day far. advanced, the Sovereign Congress resolved to meet the following morning at half-past nine, and in a body, accom- panied by the Executive Power, the Staff, the Generals, Chiefs and Officers of the Army and Place, to proceed to the Holy Cathedral Church, and return thanks to Almighty God for his mercies in having granted the happy re-assembling of the National Representation, to fix the lot of the Republic by giving it a free Constitution capable of raising her to the height of glory destined for her by nature. The President declared the Sitting of the Installation of the Sovereign Congress of Venezuela ended, and the Act should be signed by all the Deputies and the Supreme Chief, who had this day laid down his Authority, and that it be countersigned by the Secretary appointed ad interim for that purpose. [Here follow the signatures of twenty-six Deputies, out of thirty of which the Congress ought to consist, also those of the President and Supreme Chief.] APPENDIX, 467 No. VI. Extracts from the justly celebrated Speech of General Bolivar to the Congress of Venezuela, Feb. 19th, 1819. Gentlemen, I account myself one of the beings most favoured by Providence, in having the honour of re-uniting the Repre- sentatives of Venezuela in this august Congress; the only source of legitimate authority, the deposit of the sovereign will, and the arbiter of the Nation's fate. In delivering back to the Representatives of the People the supreme power entrusted to me, I satisfy the desires of my own heart, and calm the wishes of my Fellow- Citizens and of future generations, who hope every thing from your wisdom, rectitude, and prudence. In fulfilling this delightful duty, I free myself from the boundless authority which oppresses me, and also from the unlimited responsibility which weighs on my feeble hands. An imperative necessity, united to a strongly expressed desire on the partof the People, could have alone induced me to assume the dreadful and dangerous charge of Dictator, Supreme Chief of the Republic. Now, however, I respire in returning the authority, which, with such great risk, difficulty and toil, I have maintained amidst as horrible calamities as ever afflicted a social body. In the epoch during w T hich I presided over the Republic, it was not merely a political storm that raged, iu a san- guinary war, in a time of popular anarchy,but the tempest of thedesert, a whirlwind of every disorganised element, the bursting of an infernal torrent that overwhelmed the land of Venezuela. A man ! and such a man as I am ! what h H 2 '.•J., 1 ,-J;/ , 4G8 APPENDIX. bounds, what resistance, could he oppose to such furious devastation? Amidst that sea of woes and afflictions, I was nothing more than the miserable sport of the revolution- ary hurricane, driven to and fro like the wild bird of the Ocean. I could do neither good nor evil ; an irresistible power above all human controul directed the march of our fortunes, and for me to pretend to have been the prime mover of the events which have taken place, would be unjust, and would be attaching to myself an importance I do not merit. Do you desire to know the sources from which those occurrences took their rise, and the origin of our present situation ? Consult the annals of Spain, of America, and of Venesuela ; examine the laws of the Indies, the conduct of your ancient Governors, the influ- ence of Religion, and of foreign Dominion ; observe the first Acts of the Republican Government, the ferocity of our enemies, and the national character. I again repeat that I cannot consider myself more than the mere instru- ment of the great causes which have acted on our Country. My life, my conduct, and all my actions, public and private, are however before the people — and, Represen- tatives, it is your duty to judge them. I submit to your impartial decision, the manner in which I have executed my command, and nothing will I add to excuse — I have already said enough as an apology. Should I merit your approbation, I shall have acquired the sublime title of a good Citizen, preferred by me to that of Liberator, bestowed on me by Venezuela ; to that of Pacificator, given by Cundinamarca, and to all others the universe couid confer ! Legislators! — I deposit in your hands the Supreme command of Venezuela, and it is now your high duty to consecrate yourselves to the felicity of the Republic; in your hands rest the balance of our destiny, and the means of our glory. — You will confirm the Decrees which esta- blish our Liberty. The Supreme Chief of the Republic is, at this moment, nothing more than a simple Citizen, — and such he wishes APPENDIX. 469 to remain until his latest hour. He will, however, serve with the armies of Venezuela, as long as an enemy treads her soil. The continuation of authority in the same individual, has frequently proved the termination of democratical Governments. Repeated elections are essential in popular systems, for nothing is so dangerous as to suffer power to remain a long time vested in one Citizen ; the People accustomed to obey, and he to command, give rise to usurpation and tyranny. A strict jealousy is the guaran- tee of Republican Liberty ; and the Citizens of Venezuela ought to fear with the greatest justice, that the same Magistrate who has governed them for a length of time may do so for ever. Casting a glance on the past, we shall see what is the basis of the Republic of Venezuela. The separation of America from the Spanish Monarchy resembles the state of the Roman Empire, when that enor- mous mass fell to pieces in the midst of the ancient world. Every dismemberment then formed an independent nation, conformable to its situation and interests ; but with this difference, that those associations returned to their origi- nal principles. We do not retain vestiges of what we were in other times ; we are not Europeans, we are not Indians, but a middle race betwixt the Aborigines and the Spaniards. Americans by birth, and Europeans in rights, we are placed in the extraordinary predicament of disputing with the natives our privilege of possession, and of maintaining ourselves in the country which gave us birth, against the efforts of the original Invaders — and thus, our situation is the more extraordinary and complicated. Our lot, moreover, has ever been purely passive, our po- litical existence has ever been nugatory ; and we, there- fore, encounter greater difficulties in establishing our Liberties, having hitherto been in a lower degree of de- gradation than even servitude, and being not only robbed of our freedom, but not suffering an active and domineering tyranny, which would have excited feelings of indignation. 470 APPENDIX- Permit me to explain this paradox : in the exercise of authorized absolute power, there are no limits ; the will of the Despot is the supreme Law, arbitrarily exe- cuted by inferiors, who participate in the organized oppression, in proportion to the authority they hold, being entrusted with all functions, civil, political, military, and religious. America received all from Spain, was with- out the practice and exercise of an active tyranny, and was not permitted to] share in the administration of her domestic concerns and interior arrangements. This abject state of depression rendered it impossible for us to be acquainted with the course of public affairs, and as little did we enjoy the personal consequence and respect, which the shew of authority commands in the eyes of the people, and which is of such importance in great revolutions. I say again, that we were abstracted and absent from the world in every thing having a re- ference to the science of Government. The people of America, bound with the triple yoke of ignorance, tyranny, and vice, could not acquire either knowledge, power, or virtue. Pupils of such pernicious masters— the lessons we re- ceived, and the examples we followed — were the most destructive. We were governed more by deceit and treachery, than by force, and were degraded more by vice than superstition. Slavery is the daughter of dark- ness, and an ignorant person is generally the blind in- strument of his own ruin ; ambition and intrigue take advantage of the credulity and inexperience of men totally unacquainted with every principle of political and civil economy ; the uninformed adopt as realities what are mere illusions, they mistake licentiousness for Liberty, treachery for Patriotism, and revenge for J ustice. A corrupt People, should it gain its liberty, soon loses it again, for in vain are the lights of experience exercised in shewing that happiness consists in the practice of virtue, and that the Government of Laws is more power- APPENDIX. 471 ful than that of Tyrants, because they are more inflexible, and all ought to submit to their wholesome severity ; that good morals and not force constitute the pillars of the Law, and that the exercise of Justice is the exercise of Liberty. Many ancient and modern nations have shaken off oppression, but few of them have known how to enjoy a few precious moments of freedom ; very soon have they returned to their former political vices, for the People more frequently than the Government bring on tyranny. The habit of submission renders them insensible to the charms of honour and national prosperity, and leads them to regard with insensibility the glory of being free under the protection of laws dictated by their own will. The history of the world proclaims this dreadful truth. The Constitution of Venezuela, although founded on the most perfect principles, differed widely from that of America in an essential point, and without doubt the most important. The Congress of Venezuela, like that of America, participates in some of the attributes of the Executive power. But we go further, and subdivide it by committing it to a collective body, and are con- sequently subject to the inconvenience of making the ex- istence of the Government periodical, of suspending and of dissolving it whenever the Members separate. Our tri- umvirate is void, as one may say, of unity, duration, and personal responsibility ; it is at times destitute of action, it is without perpetual life, real uniformity, and immediate responsibility ; and a Government, which does not possess continuance, may be denominated a nullity. Although the powers of the President of the United States are limited by excessive restrictions, he exercises by him- self alone all the functions of authority granted him by the Constitution, and there can be no doubt that his Administration must be more uniform, constant, and truly proper, than that of a power divided amongst various indi- viduals, the composition of which cannot but be monstrous. The Judicial power in Venezuela is similar to that ia .■>V/v,V,-A/. J 472 APPENDIX. America, indefinite in duration, temporary and not per- petual, aDd it enjoys all the independence necessary. Alt the citizens of Venezuela enjoy by the constitution a political equality ; and if that equality had not been a dogma in Athens, in France, and in America, we ought to confirm the principle, in order to correct the dif- ference which may apparently exist. Legislators ; my opinion is, that the fundamental principle of our system, depends immediately and solely on equality being esta- blished and practised in Venezuela. That men are ali born with equal rights to the benefits of society, has been sanctioned by almost all the sages of every age ; as has also, that all men are not born with equal capacities for the attainment of every rank, as all ought to practise virtue ; and all do not so ; all ought to be brave, and ail are not so ; all ought to possess talents, and all do not so. From this arises the real distinction observed amongst individuals of the most liberally established society. If the principle of political equality be generally ac- knowledged, not less so is that of physical and moral inequality. It would be an illusion, an absurdity to suppose the contrary. Nature makes men unequal in genius, temperament, strength, and character. Laws cowect that difference by placing the individual in society, where education, industry, arts, sciences, and virtues, give a fictitious equality, properly called political and social. The union of all classes in one state is eminently beneficial ; and in which diversity is multiplied in pro- portion to the propagation of the species. By it alone has discord been torn up by the roots, and many jea- lousies, follies, and prejudices avoided! The most perfect system of government is that which produces the greatest degree of happiness, of social se- curity, and political stability. A republican government has been, is, and ought to be that of Venezuela ; its basis ought to be the sove- reignty of the people, the division of power, civil liberty, Al'I'l'.NIHX. 173 the prohibition <>i' slavery, and the abolition of mo- narchy aud privileges. We want equality for recast- ing-, as I may say, men, political opinions, and public customs. Throwing our sight over the vast field we have to examine, let us fix our attention en the dangers we ought to avoid, and let history guide us in our career. Passing from ancient to modern times, we find England and France deserving general attention, and giving im- pressive lessons in every species of government. The revolutions in those two great states, like brilliant meteors, have filled the world with so great a profusion of political light, that every thinking being has learned what are the rights and duties of man : in what the excellency of governments consists, and in what their vices : all know how to appreciate the intrinsic value of the theoretical speculations of modern philosophers and legislators. In short, this star in its brilliant course inflamed even the apathetic Spaniards, who also entering the political whirlwind gave ephemeral proofs of liberty, and have shewn their incapacity of living under the mild dominion of the law, by returning after a short blaze to their origi- nal bondage. Rome and Great Britain are the nations which have most excelled amongst the ancients and moderns. Both were born to command and be free, and yet neither had constitutions modelled in Liberty's most brilliant form, but solid establishments ; and on that account therefore I recommend to you, Representatives, the study of the Bri- tish constitution, which appears to be the one destined to produce the greatest possible effect on the people adopt- ing it ; but perfect as it may be, I am very far, at the same time, from proposing a servile imitation of it. When 1 speak of the British constitution, I refer solely to the democratical part of it ; and in truth it may be denomi- nated, a monarchy in system, in which is acknowledged the sovereignty of the people, the division and equilibrium of power, civil freedom, liberty of conscience, and of the press, and every thing that is sublime in politics. A greater degree of liberty cannot be enjoyed in any kind of r.sl'<;y;cJ-./.. •) 474 APPENDIX. republic, and it may indeed claim a higher rank in social order. I recommend that constitution as the best model to those who aspire to the enjoyments of the rights of man, and of all that political felicity compatible with our frail natures. [Here follows the Supreme's opinion of the advan- tages likely to accrue from an hereditary senate, toge- ther with a recommendation of such a body — perhaps the only part of his admirable discourse that will meet objec- tions amongst his republican friends and admirers in Eu- rope. As the General's observations on our constitution, apply to an administration of it, which a very large majo- rity of the nation do not admit to exist, the Editor has also passed them over.] Whilst the people of Venezuela exercise the rights they lawfully enjoy — let us moderate the excessive pretensions which an incompetent form of government might suggest — and let us give up that federal system which does not suit us — let us get clear of the triumvirate executive power, and concentrate it in one president, and let us commit to him sufficient authority to enable him to resist the inconveniences arising from our recent situation, from the state of war- fare we have been suffering under, and from the kind of foreign and domestic enemies we had to deal with, and with whom we shall still have to contend for a length of time. Let the legislative power resign the attributes belonging to the executive, and acquire nevertheless fresh consistency, and fresh influence in the equilibrium of authority. Let the courts of justice be reformed by the permanency and independence of the judges, by the es- tablishment of juries, and of civil and criminal codes, not dictated by antiquity nor by conquering kings, but by the voice of nature, by the cry of justice, and by the genius of wisdom ! To form a stable government, a national feeling is required, possessing an uniform inclination towards two principal points, regulating public will, and limiting aim»l:m>!\. 475 public authority, the bounds of which are difficult to be assigned, but it may be supposed that the best rule for our direction, is reciprocal restriction and concentration, so that there may be the least friction possible betwixt legitimate will and legitimate power. Love of country, laws, and magistrates, ought to be the ruling passion in the breast of every republican. Venezuelans love their country but not its laws, because they are bad, and the source of evil ; and as little could they respect their magistrates, as the old ones were wicked, and the new ones are hardly known in the career they have commenced. If a sacred respect does not exist for country, laws, and constituted authorities, society is a state of confusion, an abyss, and a conflict of man with man, and of body with body. To save our incipient republic from such a chaos, all our moral powers will be insufficient, unless we melt the whole people down into one mass; the composition of the government is a whole, the legislation is a whole, and national feeling is a whole. Unity, unity, unity, ought to be our device. Popular education ought to be the first care of the Congress's paternal regard. Morals and knowledge are the cardinal points of a republic, and morals and know- ledge are what we most want. Let us take from Athens her Areopagus, and the guar- dians of customs and laws ; — let us take from Rome her censors and domestic tribunals, and forming a holy alliance of those moral institutions — let us renew on earth the idea of a people not contented with being free and powerful, but which desires also to be virtuous ! Let us take from Sparta her austere establishments, and form from those three springs a reservoir of virtue. Let us give our republic a fourth power, with autho- rity to preside over the infancy and hearts of men — public spirit, good habits, and republican morality. Let us constitute this Areopagus to watch over the education of youth and national instruction, to purify whatever >V*v,'.vv •17() APl'KNDIX. may be corrupt in the republic — to impeach ingratitude, egotism, luke-vvarmness in the country's cause, sloth and idleness, and to pass judgment on the first germs of cor- ruption and pernicious example. We should correct manners with moral pain, the same as the law punishes crime with corporal, not only what may offend, but what may ridicule, not only what may assault, but what may weaken, and not only what may violate the constitution, but whatever may infringe on public decency. The jurisdiction of this really sacred tribunal ought to be effective in every thing regarding education and in- struction, and only deliberative as to pains and punish- ments ; and thus its annals and records, in which will be inscribed its acts and deliberations, and the moral prin- ciples and actions of citizens, will be the registers of vir- tue and vice. Registers which the people will consult in their elections, the magistrates in their determinations, and the judges in their decisions. Such an institution, however chimerical it may appear, is infinitely easier to realize, than others of less utility to mankind, established by some ancient and modern legislators. Meditating on the most efficient mode of regenerating the character and habits, which tyranny and war have given us, I have dared to suggest a moral power, drawn from the remote ages of antiquity, and those obsolete laws, which for some time maintained public virtue amongst the Greeks and Romans, and although it may be considered a mere whim of fancy, it is possible, and I flatter myself, that you will not altogether overlook an idea, which, when meliorated by experience and know- ledge, may prove of the greatest efficacy. Terrified at the disunion which has hitherto existed, and must exist amongst us from the subtle spirit charac- terising the federative system, I have been induced to solicit you to adopt the concentration and union of all (he states of Venezuela intoone republic, one, and indivisible. A measure, in my opinion, urgent, vital, and saving, and \ PPEND1X. 177 of such a nature that without it, the fruit of our regene- ration would be destruction. I will not notice the most momentous acts of my com- mand, although they concern most of my countrymen, and will call your attention only to the last memorable revolu- tion. Horrid, atrocious, and impious slavery, covered with her sable mantle the land of Venezuela, and our atmosphere lowered with the dark gloomy clouds of the tempest, threatening a fiery deluge. I implored the protection of the God of nature, and at his Almighty word, the storm was dispelled. The day-star of liberty rose, slavery broke her chains, and Venezuela was surrounded with new and grateful sons, who turned the instruments of her thrall and bondage, into arms of freedom. Yes! those who were formerly slaves, are now free ; those who were formerly the enemies of our country, are now its defenders. I LEAVE TO YOUR SOVEREIGN AUTHORITY THE REFORM OR REPEAL OF ALL MY ORDINANCES, STATUTES, AND DECREES ; BUT I IMPLORE YOU TO CONFIRM THE COM- PLETE EMANCIPATION OF THE SLAVES, AS I WOULD BEG MY LIFE, OR THE SALVATION OF THE REPUBLIC ! ! ! To exhibit the military history of Venezuela, would be to bring to our recollection the history of republican heroism amongst the ancients ; it would shew that Vene- zuela had made as brilliant sacrifices on the sacred altar of liberty. The noble hearts of our generous warriors, have been filled with those sublime and honourable feel- ings which have ever been attributed to the benefactors of the human race. Men who have given up all the benefits and advan- tages they formerly enjoyed as a proof of their virtue and disinterestedness — men who have undergone every thing horrible in a most inhuman war, suffering the most painful privations, the cruellest anguish — men so deserv- ing of their country, merit the attention of government, and I have therefore given directions to recompense them out of the national property. Since the second epoch of the republic, our armies ■^.T'.-.p- ,•••/'•.,' , •; 478 AI'PKNDIK. wanted the necessaries of war ; they were constantly void of arms and ammunition, and were at all times badly equipped ; but at present the brave defenders of inde- pendence are not only armed with justice, but with power, and our troops may rank with the choicest in Europe, now that they possess equal means of destruction. For these important advantages, we are indebted to the unbounded liberality of some generous foreigners, who, hearing the groans of suffering humanity, and see- ing the cause of freedom, leason, and justice, ready to sink, could not remain quiet, but flew to our succour with their munificent aid and protection, and furnished the republic with every thing needful to cause the triumph of their philanthropical principles. Those friends of mankind are the guardian geniuses of America, and to them we owe a debt of eternal gratitude, as well as a religious fulfilment of the several obligations contracted with them. The national debt, Legislators, is the deposit of the good faith, the honour, and the gratitude of Venezuela : respect it as the holy ark which encloses not only the rights of our benefactors, but the glory of our fidelity. Let us perish rather than fail, in any the smallest point, in the completion of those engagements, which have been the salvation of our country, and of the iives of her sons. The union of New Grenada, and Venezuela, in one great state, has uniformly been the ardent wish of the people and governments of these republics. The fortune of war has effected this junction, so much desired by every American, and in fact we are incorporated. These sister-nations have entrusted to you their interests, rights, and destinies. In contemplating the union of this im- mense district, my mind rises with delight to the stu- pendous height necessary for viewing properly so won- derful a picture. Legislators ! — Condescend to receive with indulgence the declaration of my political creed ; the highest wishes of my heart and earnest petition, which in the name of the people, I have dared to address you. Al'l'KNDlX. 179 Vouchsafe to grant to Venezuela a government purely popular, purely just, and purely moral, which will enchain oppression, anarchy, and crime. A government which will cause innocency, philanthropy, and peace to reign. A government which, under the dominion of inexorable laws, will cause equality and liberty to triumph ! ! ! Gentlemen ! — Commence your duties, I have finished mine. God save the Congress ! the end. W. Shaokell, Printtr, Johiuon'j-oouft, Meet-street, London. w- m »--» — -^1 im r,«v! >v x