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HANDBOOK FOE TEAVELLEES IN SURREY, HAMPSHIRE, AND THE ISLE OF WIGHT. THr GETTY iMlth LIBRARY J. V HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS SURREY, HAMPSHIRE, AND THE ISLE OF WIGHT- FOUBTH EDITION^ BE VIS ED. WITH IVIAPS AND PLANS. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET- 1888. The right of Translation is reserved. LONDON : •TRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, BTAJirOliD STliKET AND CIIAUIXG CUOSS. PREFACE. The Handbook for Surrey and Hampshire lias been drawn u}) fi om a careful personal exploration of tbe country, aided by the most recent information obtainable from residents. In preparing this, the Fourth Edition, no pains have been spared. The country has been again travelled over, and every important locality revisited. The routes have been rearranged, so as to be in accordance with the new lines of Eailway, and many portions of the work have necessarily been rewritten. As, however, errors and omissions no doubt exist, those who, from living on the spot, have ready means of detecting mistakes, are requested to aid in the object of obtaining a correct guide for all corners of Old England by sending notice of them to the Editor, care of Mr. Murray, 50, Albemarle Street. Thanks are here offered to many correspondents who have kindly favoured him with notes and corrections for the present edition. May, 1888. LIST OF MAPS AND PLANS. Map of Isle of Wight . Plan of Portsmouth Plan of Winchester Plan of Southampton . Handbook-Map of Surrey „ „ Hants and Isle of Wjg^ht to face Title-page. „ Page 198 „ 240 „ „ 289 in pocket at beginning. at the end. ( vii ; CONTENTS. Section I.— SURREY, Introduction. — General Information . EOUTES. The uames of places are printed in Italics only in those Routes where the places are described. ROUTE PAGE 1. London to Croydon, hy Syd- enham and Nonvood Junc- tion 15 2. London to East Gr instead, by Croydon (Sanderstead, Addington, West Wicl- ham, Harden Pari; and Oxted). 22 3. London to the Crystal Pal- ace. I. London & Brigh- ton Lines. II. London, Chatham and Dover Lines . 30 4. London to Bedhill and Hor- ley, by Merstham [^Cater- ham, Chelsham, Chipsfead, Nutfield, Bletchingley, God- stone, Croivhurst, Lingfield, Charlie ood, Burstoiv] . 33 5. Redhill Junction to Darl- ing and Guildford, by Rei- gate, Betchivorth, Box-hill, Chilworth, and Shalford [Leith-hill, Alhury] . . 45 G. London to Horsliam, by Dulicieh, Epsom, Leather- head, and Dorking . . .77 7. London to [Hampton Court] Weyhridge, by Wimbledon, Esher, and Walton - on - Thames [^Kingston, Thames ROUTE PAGE Ditton, East and West Moleseij'] 94 8. London to Richmond and Kew, by Wand&wortli, Put- ney, Barnes, Mortlahe, and Sheen Ill 9. London to Bagshoi, by Eg- ham 130 10. London to Guildford, by Surhiton, Oxshott, Cohham, Horsley, and Clandon , . loO 11. Leatherhead to Guildford and Farnham, by Great and Little Boohham, East and West Horsley, East and West Clandon [Loseley, Puttenham, Waverley, Moor Parh, Tilford, Frensham'] . 143 12. Guildford to Horsham, by Cranley lEwhurst^ . . .150 13. Weybridge to Chertsey [St. Anne's Hill] . . . .158 14. Weybridge to Farnhorough, by Wohing ^St. George's Hill, Byjleet, Pirhright, and Frimley. Aldershot} . .105 15. Woking to Haslemere, by Godalming [Hascomhe^ Hamhledon, Peperh a vo ir . Hindhead] 174 IIOUTES. Section II.— HAMPSHIRE. Introduction . 1> EOUJES. EOUTE PAGE 16. London to Portsmouth, by Guildford, Godalmin^, and Peter sfield [ Woolmer Foresf] 191 17. Chichester to Portsmouth, by Emsicorth and Havant [Hayling Island] . . .212 18. Farnham to Portsmouth, by Alton, Warnford, and Fareham \_Selhorne, HaivTc- ley, Hanger, East Meon] . 214 London to Gosport and Portsmouth, by Botley, Fareham, and Porchester [Bishop's Waltham ; the Portsdown Forts'] . . .225 Alton to Wincheste7% by Alresford 234 21. London to Southampton, by Farnborough, Winch field, Basingstoke, and Win- chester [Odiham, Brams- 19 20, KOUTE hill, the Sherhornes, the Worthy s, Netley, Beaulieu] 22. Basingstoke to Eeading, by Mortimer IStratfield Saye, Silchester] . , . . . 23. Basingstoke to Salisbury, by Overton, Whitchurch, and Andover [Jiingsclere, Burgh- clere, Highclere, Weyhill] . 24. Bishopstoke to Salisbury, by Bomsey 25. Andover to Southampton, by Stoclcbridge .... 2G. Southampton to Eingivood, by Brochenhurst. The New Forest 27. Brockenhurst to Bourne- mouth, by Lymington and Christchurch. Neiv Forest 28. Ringwood to Fordinghridge [Moyle^s Court, Bockhorne, Breamore] ..... 31 31 33 33< J 37:j Section III.— ISLE OF WIGHT. Introduction 370 EOUTES. ROUTE PAGE 29. Byde to Ventnor, by Brad^ ing, Sandown, Shanhlin and Bonchurch 389 30. Ryde to Newport [Caris- hroolce] 401 31. Newport to Brading [East Standen, Neivchurch] . . 409 32. Corves, West and East [Os- home, Whippingham], by Newport and GodshiU, to Yentnor 411 ROUTE 33. Ventuor to Freshwater, by >S'^. Lawrence, the Under- clif. Niton, Blaclcgang, Chale, Shorivell, Brixton, Mottiston, and Brook . .417 34. Newport to Yarmouth and Freshwater [Neivtown, Alum Bay, the Needles; Calhourne] .... 428 Index HANDBOOK FOR SUEREY, HAMPSHIRE, AND THE ISLE OF WIGHT. SECTION L SURREY. INTRODUCTION, PAGE I PAGE Extent and History . . • 1 j Gteology and Traveller's Antiquities .... • ^ View 6 Products and Manufactures . 5 I Skeleton Tours , , , , 11 Extent and History. The county of Surrey, says Fuller, " is not unproperly compared to a cynamon-tree, whose bark is far better than the body thereof. For the skirts and borders bounding this shire are rich and fruitful, whilst the ground in the inward parts thereof is very hungry and barren, though, by reason of the clear air and clean waves, full of many gentile habita- tions." This comparison, however, can never have been strictly applicable, since the western border of the county still consists, in a great measure, of open heaths and commons. Toward the centre, along the ridge of the chalk downs, and scattered in patches throughout almost every parish, much " hungry and barren " land remains, although much has been reclaimed and planted. That portion of the county which lies in the valley of the Thames is the richest and most productive. Surrey is one of the smallest English counties, its extreme length from N. to S. being not quite 27 m., and its greatest breadth from E. [Surrey, &c.'] ' b 2 Extent and Historic Notes. Introd. to W. about 40 m. It contains 478,792 statute acres, or about 748 square miles, and bad a Pop. of 1,433,899 at tbe census of 1881. Its form is that of an irregular square. Tbe marked feature of tbe county is tbe line of tbe North Downs, which traverses it from E. to W., and is accompanied, on its southern border, by a chain of parallel bills, formed of the Slianklin or Lower Greensand. Both the chalk and the greensand rise to considerable elevations ; the latter, at Leitb-hill (993 ft.), forming the highest ground in all this X3art of England. The scenery throughout the county is varied and picturese^ue ; prospects of great richness being commanded from the high grounds north of the chalk ridge, whilst those from tbe summits of the downs themselves, especially westward of Guildford, are frequently as wild and romantic as parts of the Scottish LoAvlands. HiSTOKic Notes. There is no evidence that Surrey was extensively inhabited during the Koman period. No remains of villas of any importance have been discovered here — those at Titsey (Etc. 4) are the most extensive — although tbe Stane Street traversed the entire county on its way from Chichester (Regnum) to London. One important event of this time, however, is connected with Surrey. It was either at Kingston or at Walton — most probably at the latter place (Rte. 7) — that Caesar crossed the Thames during his second invasion, when advancing westward in pursuit of Cassivelanus. The spot now known as Cowley Stakes, near Walton, was traditionally pointed out in Bede's time as having been that at which the river was crossed by the legionaries. The antiquity of the tradition must be allowed its full weight; although the remains alluded to by Bede, portions of which existed imtil very recently, were perhaps those of some later Eoman work. The county seems to have been divided into more than one small state or "kingdom" during the early Saxon period; when its reguli or " kinglets " were subject, at first perhaps to the chiefs of the South Saxons, and afterwards to those of Wessex. Its name, Suth-rige = Surrey, the " South kingdom," apparently alludes to its position south of the Thames. After the capture of Winchester (Rte. 20) by the Northmen in the reign of Ethelbert, elder brother of Alfred, the royal " villa " of Kingston in Surrey became of considerable importance ; and it was here, instead of in the ancient metropolis of Wessex, that the Saxon monarchs from Edward the Elder to Ethelred II. were solemnly crowned (see Kingston, Rte. 7). Surrey formed one of the many Earldoms of Godwin and his sons ; and after the Conquest, William de Warren, who had married Gundrada, probably a step-daughter of the Conqueror (their remains were discovered at Lewes, Oct. 28, 1845 — see Handbook for Sussex), was created Earl of Surrey. His descendants, the powerful Earls of Warren and Surrey, appear actively engaged in all the great events of their time until tbe death of the last heir male, John de Warren, in 1347. His nepbe^v Richard Fitzalan, son and Surrey. Antiquities. 3 heir of Edmund Earl of Arundel, by Alice de Warren, succeeded to the greater part of his honours and estates, and appears as the first Earl of Arundel and Surrey. With some occasiotial intermissions the title has descended through the Howards, representatives of the Fitzalans, to the present Duke of Norloll?. The most important event in the history of Surrey is of course the grant of the Great Charter at Runnymede, June 15th, 1215 (Rte. 9). Tradition has asserted that many conferences were previously held by the party of the barons in the caverns under the keep of Reigate Castle (Rte. 5). It is sufficiently clear, however, that this story is entirely without foundation": and Surrey must be contented with the honour of containing within her bounds the scene of one of the most important events not only in the history of England but in that of freedom. In the following year, 1216, Louis of France landed on the Kentish coast ; and after the death of King John a treaty was concluded between Louis and William the Earl Marshal, Protector of the Young King Henry III., by which the French prince agreed to relinquish his claims to the crown of England, and to surrender all the places which then remained in the possession of his followers. The scene of this treaty was " an island in the Thames, near Staines — in all probability that now known as Charter Island. By a remarkable chance, both the first and almost the last appearance in arms during the great Civil War occurred in the county of Surrey. Both took place at Kingston-on-Thames (Rte. 7). On January 12, 1642, when an open rupture between King and Parliament seemed inevitable, Lord Digby, Colonel Lunsford, and other Royalists, assembled there, with the intention, it was asserted, of proceeding to Portsmouth and seizing it for the king. Before their design could be carried into execution, however, the Parliament called out the trained bands of Surrey and the neighbouring counties. Colonel Lunsford was committed to the Tower ; and Lord Digby " escaped beyond sea." The second rising at Kingston took place July 7, 1648, when the Duke of Buckingham, and his brother Lord Francis Yilliers, after some skir- mishing in the neighbourhood of Reigate, withdrew to Kingston, close to which place they were attacked by the Parliamentary troops and dispersed. On this occasion Lord Francis Yilliers, a youth of twenty, was killed. Antiquities. There are but few remains of the British and Roman periods in Surrey. Some of the higher hills, both of the chalk and of the green- sand, are crested with camps which may have been occupied in turn by either people, but the true date of which is uncertain. The Stane Street, the Roman road which passed from Chichester to London, is very conspicuous S. of Dorking ; and Roman relics have been dis- covered at Albury, at White Hill in the parish of Bletchingley, at Titsey, at Walton-on-the-Hill, at Woodcote near Croydon, at Ew^ell, 4 Antiquities, Introd, and elsewliere. None of these, however, were of any great interest or importance ; and it is sufficiently clear that Surrey was not one of the British districts most favoured by the Eoman conquerors. The Surrey Churches are of very mixed architecture. The portions here indicated will best repay inspection. Norman, a.d. 1066-1135. KOUTE 1. Addington, chancel. 5. Albury, tower. 11. Bookham, Great, parts. — Bookham, Little, piers. 4. Charlwood, chancel arch. — Chipstead. 9. Chobham, parts. 12. Ewhurst, tower. 4. Godstone, slight remains, by W. door. 11. Merrow, parts. 10. Pirford, N. doorway, with Dec. porch. 5. Shere, S. door. — Walton - on - the - Hill, Norm. leaden font. Late, or Trans- Norman, a.d. 1135-1189. 11. Compton, chancel. — Farnham, parts. 15. Goldaming, tower. 7. Merton. 11. Puttenham. 5. Reigate, pillars of the nave. 7. Walton-on-Thames, nave. Early English, a.d. 1189-1272. 5. Abinger, chancel. 1. Addington, nave. 4. Bletchingley, chancel. 12. Bramley, chancel. 6. Carshalton, parts. 4. Chaldon, mural paintings. — Charlwood, porch, frescoes. 15. Chiddingfold, chanceL 4. Chipstead, chancel and tower. 11. Effingham, parts. ROUTE 11. Farnham, pillars of nave. 5. St. Mary, Guildford, very inte- resting : mural paintings. 11. Horsley, East, parts. — Horsley, West, N. aisle and chancel. 4. Merstham, chancel and tower. 7. Merton, parts. 10. Newark Priory, church (?). — Ockham, chancel, fine window. — Ripley, chapel. — Send, chancel. 5. Shere, font. 10. Stoke d'Abernon, brasses, 11. Waverley Abbey, crypt. 14. Woking chancel, W. entrance within the tower. 5. Wotton. Decorated, a.d. 1272-1377. 11. Bookham, Great, chancel. 14. Byfleet, chancel. 12. Cranley. 11. Merrow, barge -board, unique (^Hickmaii). 4. Merstham, W. door. 7. Merton, porch. 10. Ockham, good tracery. 14. Woking. Perpendicular, a.d. 1377-1547, 1. Croydon (rebuilt). 7. Kingston. 5. Leigh, brasses. 4. Lingfield, brasses. — Merstham, E. window. 7. Molesey, West, font. 8. Putney, Bp. West's chantry. 10. Stoke by Guildford. 7. Thames Ditton. In Military architecture, notice Guildford Castle (Rte. 5), Norm., and Farnham Castle (Rte. 11), parts, early Edwardian. SuRu^lY. Products and Manufactured* 5 The Domestic buildings to be noticed are : — Croydon Palace Hall (Rte. 1), Ferp. Crowhurst Place (Rte. 4), Hen. VII. Sutton Place (Rte. 5), Wolsey's Tower, Esher (Rte. J), Hen. VIII Beddington, the Hall (Rte. 6), Loseley (Rte. 11), Smallfield Place (Rte. 4), Swain's Farm (Rte. 5), Tytin^^ (Rte. 5), Whitgift's Hospital, Croydon (Rte. 1), Elizabethan. Abbot's Hospital, Guildford (Rte. 5), Cowley House, Chertsey (Rte. 13), Jacobean. Peoducts and Manufactures. Beside the hop plantations in the neighbourhood of Farnham (Rte. 11), the only productions of the county requiring especial notice here are the medicinal herbs grown for the most part in the parishes of Mitcham and Carshalton. In the open fields there, which perfume the whole county for a considerable distance round, we see cultivated in enormous quantities, for the supply of the London herbsellers and druggists, mint, lavender, pennyroyal, chamomile, wormwood, poppies, anise, liquorice, elecampane, rhubarb, soapwort, coltsfoot, vervain, angelica, rosemary, hyssop, marshmallow, damask and red roses, &c. These " flower farms," as they are called, are almost entirely confined to Surrey, but the culti- vation of roses and lavender, in cottage gardens, for sale, is very common in Essex, Herts, and other counties. In the sandy soil about Woking and Bagshot are several very extensive nurseries, where rhododendrons, and azaleas, and American plants are reared in vast numbers. Extensive market-gardens, from which the metropolis is largely supplied, lie along the banks of the rivers. They are successors of the earliest gardens in England in which vegetables were raised for sale, — the Flemings who fled from the persecution of Alva having first established them in the neighbourhood of Sandwich, in Kent, and then brought them nearer London, into this county. The gardens about Battersea were long famous for the asparagus raised by the Flemings. They were the first also to cultivate carrots to any extent ; and Chertsey, where this vegetable was first grown in Surrey, is still remarkable for the large quantities raised in its neighbourhood. "Gardening," says Fuller, in his * Worthies ' (a posthumous publication, 1662), " was first brought into England for profit about seventy years ago, before which we fetched most of our cherries from Flanders, apples from France, and had hardly a mess of rathe-ripe pease but from Holland, which were dainties for ladies, they came so far and cost so dear. Since, gardening hath crept out of Holland to Sandwich, Kent, and thence into this county (Surrey), where, though they have given six pounds an aker and upward, they have made their rent, lived comfortably, and set many people on work. Oh, the incredible profit by digging of ground ! — for, though it be confessed that the plough beats the spade out of distance for speed (almost as much as the press beats the pen), yet what the spade wants in the quantity of the ground it manureth, it recompenseth with the plenty of the fruit it yieldeth, that which is set multiplying a hundredfold more than that which is sown. 'Tis incredible how many poor people in London live thereon, so that, in some seasons, the gardens feed more people than the field.*' 6 Geology and Traveller's View, Introd. Along the heaths and commons in the north-western part of the county, formed by the Bagshot Sands, — Weybridge, Woking, Pir- bright, Chobham, and Bagshot, — are extensive plantations of Scotch fir — not fir and larch as is sometimes said, for the larch will not grow on them. The fir also grows extensively on the unenclosed commons, but is not planted there. " The Scotch fir-trees [on these commons] come from seed, self sown, and where once a clump springs up it seeds the ground, and each year young trees from seed extend over the common, and thus a forest is formed witliout labour or expense. . . . These fir-plantations are daily becoming more valuable ; the timber being of light carriage, and inexpensively converted, is now extensively used for permanent railway sleepers, and for boarding of all descriptions. The small trees are cleft into lath, and are also much sought after for scaffold poles, railway fences, rafters, and many other purposes, and the cord wood is worked up in the lucifer-match manufactories." — Mellersh. The Manufactures of the county are numerous, but are confined for the most part to the more immediate neighbourhood of the metropolis. Some calico bleaching and printing (but to no very great extent) is carried on upon the Wandle, where, and upon the Mole, are paper, oil, powder, snuff, drug, and copper mills. Brick-making, candle-making, glass-working, cement-working, and pottery, are also to be ranked among the manufactures of Surrey ; as is gunpowder, largely made at Chilworth, and at Ewell. Geology and Travellek's View. The geology of the county has been most carefully described by the late Dr. Mantell, in a paper supplied by him for Brayley's * History of Sussex' (vol. i. p. 121, and vol. v. 51-67). This paper, with its illus- trative map and sections, the tourist will find of considerable value and interest. Only a very brief abstract of it, with a few corrections, and the nomenclature of the maps of Surrey issued by the Geological Survey, can be here given. The strata of the county of Surrey constitute 4 principal groups, — - first, the Lower Cretaceous, comprising the Wealden and the Lower Greensand strata (S. of the chalk downs), the lowermost and most ancient series of deposits ; secondly, the tipper Cretaceous, which is superimposed thereon ; thirdly, the Lower Eocene, including the London and Plastic clay ; and fourthly, the Middle Eocene, or Bagshot sand group. Upon these last-named strata there are, here and there, accumu- lations of ancient drift, consisting of loam, izravel, and sand, which are designated Post-tertiary Detritus, or Alluvium of the Thames, &c. In the Post-tertiary deposits, the principal beds of which occur on Clapham, Wandsworth, Mitcliam, and Chobham Commons, and along the Thames, and the lower course of its Surrey tributaries, bones and teeth of gigantic elephants and rhinoceroses, antlers and bones of the Irish elk, and of one or more species of horse, deer, buffalo, and other pachydermata, have been found. Surrey. Geology and Traveller's Vieio. 7 The Eocene formations, which constitute what is called the London basin, cover the whole of Surrey N. of Ihe chalk downs. The Middle Eocene comprises: — 1. Upper Bagshot sand, the uppermost or newest deposit ; 2. Middle Bagshot, or Bracklesham, sands ; 3. Lower Bagshot sand. The Upper Bagshot sand is confined to the range of high hills (the Fox Hills and Chobham Kidges) running N. and S. along the N.W. extremity of the county, and a few insulated patches, as on Pirbright Common, E. of Pirbright, and Duke's-hill on Bagshot Heath. It everywhere lies upon and is surrounded by the Middle Bagshot sands, or Bracklesham beds, which form the greater part of Bagshot Heath, Bisley, and Pirbright Commons, and occur in insulated spots eastward, as St. George's-hill, by Wey bridge, and Kedhill, 1 m. S., on Cobham Common. The Lower Bagshot sand occupies the N.W. angle of the county, extending southwards, with interruptions, from Egham to Woking and Pirford. E. of Woking Common, Cobham Common (with the exceptions mentioned above), Claremont and Esher Common, belong wholly to the Lower Bagshot sand. A patch of it occurs also near Send, and a narrow band extends thence to Ash. Numerous shells and remains of marine fishes occur in this formation. The Lower Eocene group consists of— 1, London clay ; 2, Plastic clay ; 3, Thanet sand. The London clay extends throughout the neighbour- hood of the metropolis, and thence (with a break by Tooting and Mitcham, which are alluvial), in a narrowing belt, south-westward to the extremity of the county l3y Farnham. The London clay contains bones and teeth of extinct mammalia ; bones of birds, serpents, crocodiles ; fishes, Crustacea, nautili, and other marine shells ; wood, plants, and seed-vessels. The Plastic clay, which is found skirting the southern edge of the London clay, and in insulated patches at Headley, Netley Heath, near Dorking, &c. ; and the Thanet sand, which crops out from under the London clay from Beddington to near Leatherhead, and occurs in patches at Banstead and Walton-on-the-Hill, contain very similar fossils, beside large beds of oyster-shells, of a species very nearly resembling that which now exists. These Eocene formations (of which the basins of London and Hampshire are the only representatives in England) find their counterparts in those of Belgium and the Netherlands, where the fossils are of the same species, and partly in those of the great basin of Paris. The Hampshire basin covers the southern portion of the county, besides parts of the Sussex and Dorsetshire coasts, and the N. coast of the Isle of Wight. Outlying patches of Tertiary strata occur here and there at great distances beyond the general limits, and at great heights upon the chalk which separates the basins of London and Hampshire. It has accordingly been suggested by Dr. Buckland that the two basins were " originally united together in one continuous deposit across the now intervening chalk of Salisbury Plain in Wilts and the plains of Andover and Basingstoke in Hants." Sir Charles Lyell, however, agrees only so far with this conclusion " as to believe that the basins of London and Hampshire were not separated until 8 Geology and Traveller's View. In trod. part of the tertiary strata were deposited, and does not think it probable that the tertiary beds ever extended continuously over those spaces where the outliers above mentioned occur ; nor that the com- parative thinness of those deposits in the higher chalk countries should be attributed chiefly to the greater degree of denudation which they have there suffered." — Principles of Geol., book iv. ch. 20. The tertiary strata were formed after the breaking up of the bed of the ocean in which the chalk was deposited. Some parts of this were elevated above the waves, and formed groups of islands ; while the depressions, or basins, were filled with the waters of a sea teeming with marine fishes and shells wholly distinct from those of the preceding ocean, and fed by streams which brought down from the land the remains of terrestrial mammalia, and of trees and plants, also of extinct species and genera. " The London area appears to have been upraised before that of Hampshire, so that it never became the receptacle of the Barton clays, nor of the overlying fiuvio-marine and freshwater beds of Hordwell and the north part of the Isle of Wight. On the other hand, the Hampshire Eocene area seems to have emerged before that of Paris, so that no marine beds of the Upper Eocene era were ever thrown down in Hampshire." — Lyell, Manual of Geology, ch. xvi. The Upper Cretaceous formation is divided into — 1, Chalk; 2, Upper Greensand (Malm) ; 3, Grault. The white chalk underlies the tertiary strata, at a depth varying from 100 to 500 or 600 ft. It gradually rises to the surface at a dis- tance of about 10 m. S. of London, " forming the North Downs, which present a bold escarpment to the S., and, on the E., constitute an area of 8 or 10 m. across ; but towards the W. they are contracted into that narrow but beautiful ridge called the Hog's Back, between Guildford and Farnham, which scarcely exceeds half a mile in breadth. Godstone, Eei^^ate, Dorking, and Farnham lie to the S. of the escarpment of the chalk hills ; Guildford stands upon the chalk, the river Wey flowing by it, through a chalk valley to the Thames. To the E. the Surrey chalk hills unite with the downs of Kent, which terminate in the cliffs of Dover ; on the W. they pass into Hampshire, and are thus connected with the South Downs, that range from W. to E. through Sussex, and end in the bold promontory of Beachy Head. The general dip of the chalk varies from 10° to 15° towards the N., but at the Hog's Back the inclination is very considerable, being [in one place i m. AV. of Scale] above 45°." "The white chalk is composed of lime and carbonic acid, and a large proportion of the purest appears to be in great part, if not wholly, made up of the detritus of corals and ^-hells. The nodules and veins of flint in the chalk show that water, holding silex in solution, must have been very- abundant during the cretaceous period. The perfect fluidity of the flint before its consolidation is proved by the sharp impressions of shells, echini, and other marine exuviae, and the complete impregnation of the sponges, alcyonia, and other zoophytes, with siliceous matter; so that polished sections of the flints display the most delicate structure of the enclosed Surrey. Geology and Traveller's View, 9 organic bodies. The chalk is distinctly stratified, and the flints are distri- buted in horizontal layers at irregular distances from each other — a proof of the tranquil and intermitting character of the deposition." — Mantell. The upper Green sand, a grey chalk marl, in its lowermost beds becoming a greyish-green arenaceous limestone, provincial I y called fire- stone, extends in a narrow terrace all along the escarpment or southern face of the Downs. The firestone was anciently much quarried near Keigate. Henry VII.'s Chapel, at Westminster, and parts of Windsor Castle, are built of it ; but its use is now almost entirely confined to the formation of hearths and furnaces, for which its property of resisting heat renders it well adapted. Under the firestone, and running like it in a narrow belt across the county, appears the Gault, a dark blue marl characterised by a few peculiar fossils ; " whilst the beautiful state in which the pearly coat of the ammonites and other shells is preserved distinguishes the organic remains of this deposit from those of the associated firestone and marl." , The lower Cretaceous formation is divided into the Lower Greensand and Wealden groups. The Lower Greensand is subdivided into — 1, Folkestone beds (sand) ; 2, Sandgate beds (clayey sand and clay) ; 3, Hythe beds (stone and sand) ; 4, Atherfield clay. The formation rises into a range of hills that runs parallel with the chalk (on its S. side), and forms the highest ground in this part of England. The Folkestone beds skirt the Gault on the S., and form the greater part of Black-heath and Farley-heath on the E., and the wide heathy tract stretching W. of Godalming to Farnham. The Sandgate beds are found S. of these, at Nuffield, Kedhill, &c., where occur extensive beds of fuller's earth. The Hythe beds form the larger proportion of the southern part of the group, from Leith-hill to the Hindhead hills at the western extremity of the county. It is bordered for its whole extent on the S. by a narrow belt of the Atherfield clay, a large deposit of which also occurs between Guildford and Godalming. Fossils are but sparingly distributed in the Greensand of Surrey. A few trigoni^e have been found near Godalming ; and at Nuffield large ammonites and nautili are not uncommon. Below the chalk, and underlying the Greensand, appears the lowest series of deposits, which, from their occupying the Wealds of Surrey, Kent, and Sussex, have received the name of Wealden. They consist of — 1, Weald clay, with Horsham stone; 2, Tunbridge Wells sand, with Grinstead clay ; 3, Wadhurst clay. This formation covers all the southern portion of the county. It is of freshwater origin, and originally formed the delta of a vast river that flowed through a country which enjoyed a tropical climate. The Wealden strata of Surrey consist almost entirely of the Weald clay, with interposed layers of sand, shells, and limestone. A layer of Paludina limestone, rising into a range of low hills, extends in the S.E. portion of the formation from E. of Home to Chart wood on the Sussex border. The Tunbridge Wells sand and Grinstead clay strata are only seen at 10 Geology and Travellers View. Introd. Copthorne Common, and towards Grinstead in the extreme S.E. corner of the county. Kiver shells, land plants, and skeletons of terrestrial reptiles, are the fossil remains which it contains. From a careful survey of the strata and organic remains of the Wealden, we have acquired data from which we obtain secure conclusions as to the nature of the country from whence those spoils were derived, of the animals by which it was inhabited, and of the vegetables that clothed its surface. That country must have been diversified by hill and valley, and irrigated by streams and torrents, the tributaries of its mighty river. Arborescent ferns, palms, and yuccas constituted its groves and forests ; delicate ferns and grasses the vegetable clothing of its soil ; and in its marshes equiseta, and plants of a like nature, prevailed. It was peopled by enormous reptiles, among which the colossal iguanodon and the megalosaurus were the chief ; crocodiles and turtles, flying reptiles and birds, frequented its fens and rivers, and deposited their eggs on its banks and shoals ; and its waters teemed with lizards, fishes, and moUusca. But there is no evidence that man ever set his foot upon that wondrous soil, or that any of the animals that are his con- temporaries found there an habitation." — Mantell. Fm'ther details of the Geology of the Weald will be found in the Bandhooh for Sussex (Introduction). The Art collections of the county are at Dulwich (Rte. 6 ; picture- gallery), at . Gatton (Lord Monson ; pictures ; Rte. 4), and at the Deepdene (Mrs. Hope ; pictures and sculpture ; Rte. 5). The tourist in search of the picturesque will find Surrey a most attractive county, full of variety and interest. The views from its northern portion, adjoining the Thames, have long been celebrated. The most remarkable are those from St. George's-hill (Rte. 14) ; from St. Anne*s-hill (Rte. 13) ; from Cooper's-hill (Rte. 9) ; and that from Richmond-hill (Rte. 8). From all these eminences prospects of wide extent and of extreme richness are commanded — such as perhaps no country but England can show. Along the chalk range, and the adjoining hills of the Greensand, the great views are — from Reigate Park and from the downs above the town ; from Boxhill, Norbury-park, the heights above Denbies, Leith-hill, Newland's Corner, St. Martha's Chapel (Rte. 5), and the Hog's Back (Rte. 11). These views differ materially in their character from those near the Thames, and are often so wild and romantic as to render it difficult for the tourist to believe that he is at so short a distance from the great metropolis. South of Farnham a wild stretch of heath country extends, not without a picturesque beauty of its own ; and the view from the top of Hindhead (Rte. 15) is a very fine one. In the neighbourhood of Marden Park, Coulsdon, Chipstead, and Gatton on the E. side of the county (Rte. 4), and Godalming on the W. (Rte. 15) is some interesting scenery, which the artist will find worth exploration. The well-appointed coaches which leave the White-horse Cellar daily now drive through almost all the most beautiful parts of the county. A^ery good inns occur throughout the county; and a tour in Surrey may be accomplished without the slightest inconvenience or discomfort. Surrey. Skeleton Tours. 11 SKELETON TOURS. No. I.— SUEKEY. Stations. Chief Points of Interest [the most remark- able WITH THE Asterisk]. Croydon *Church ; Hall of Palace. Beddington Hall and Church. *Exc. to Sanderstead. Epsom *Race Course. *Banstead Downs (view). Caterham White Hill (view from). Harden Park. Merstham *Church. *Gatton (where are some fine pictures, and in the park some noble trees) may be visited from this station. Chipstead Church. Eeigate *Church. *View from Reigate Park. *View from the Chalk Downs. Bletchingley Church. Godstone. Titsey. *Exc. to Crowhurst and Lingfield. Box-HiLL *Box-hill. *]Srorbury Park. Dorking *The Deepdene. *Avenue in Betchworth Park. Wotton Church. *Leith Hill. Oakwood Chapel. Abinger Church. Cobham Cobham Church. Stoke D^Abernon Church, where are the earliest English brasses. Guildford *St. Mary's Church. *The Castle. *Abp. Abbot's Hospital. *St. Catherine's Hill. *St. Martha's Hill. *Sutton Place. *Loseley. ♦Compton Church. *Newland's Corner. *The Hog's Back. Godalming Church. New Charterhouse Schools. Hascombe Beeches. *Chestnuts at Burgate. *Oxenford Grange. *Peperharow Church, and Cedars in the garden. Devil's Punchbowl. *View from Hindhead. Haslemere. Farnham Church. *Castle. *Waverley Abbey. *Moor Park. Tilford, King's Oak. *Crooksbury. Erensham. Farnborough . . . . Chobham Ridges. Camp at Aldershot. Woking Church. Remains of Newark Priory. *Messrs. Waterer's nursery gardens. Weybridge *St. George's Hill. View from Oatlands. Chertsey *Cowley House. *St. Anne's Hill. Anningsley. Egham Church. *Cooper's Hill. *Runny- mede. (Virginia AVater may be visited from here.) 12 Skeleton Tours. Introd. Stations. Chief Points of Interest. AYalton View from the bridges. *Church. Bradshaw's House. Cowey Stakes. EsHER *Wolsey's Tower. *Claremont. Thames Ditton Church. Sandown Park. Kingston *Church of All Saints. Coronation Stone near the Market Place. View from Kingston Hill, and from the Bridge. Wimbledon Views from the Park and Common. Rifle shooting. EiCHMOND *The Park between Richmond and Ham Gates. * Views from the Hill, and Terrace near Pem- broke Lodge. Thomson's Villa. Church. *Kew Gardens. Nearly all the places of interest in Surrey are withia a long day's excur- sion from London. No. II.— HAMPSHIEE. Stations. Chief Points of Interest. WiNCiiFiELD . . . . Dogmersfield Park. *Odiham Church and Castle. *Bramshill. Basingstoke .. .. Church. *Chapel of the Holy Ghost. *Ruins of Basing House. Basing Church. Winklesbury Circle. The Vyne. Church of Monks' Sher- borne. Hack wood. Mortimer *Stratfield Saye. ^Silchester. Roman city. Alton *Church. *Exc. to Selborne Church and White's House. Views from the hills above Selborne. *Hawkley Hanger. Mitcheldever . . . . Popham Beacon. Church of Stoke Charity. Winchester ^Cathedral. *St. Mary's College. Remains of Wolvesey Castle. St. John's Church. *Hall of the Palace. Barracks. *Hospital of St. Cross. *St. Catherine's Hill. Twyford. *St. Martin's Church, Headbourne Worthy. Chil- comb. Exc. to Merdon Castle and Hursley. Otterbourne Church. Bishop's Waltham . . *Ruins of the Episcopal Palace. Church. BiSHOPSTOKE .. .. ^Gardens of the late Dean of Winchester. Stone- ham Park. RoMSEY *Abbey Church. Broadlands. Embley Park. Mottisfont. Southampton .. *Walls and ancient houses. *Bargate. *Domus Dei. *Font in St. Michael's Church. *Docks. *Bevis Mount. Remains of Clausentum. *Exc. to Netley Abbey, and Hospital. *Exc. to Beaulieu. *Excs. to Ncav Forest and the Isle of Wight. Surrey. Skeleton Tours. 13 Stations. Chief Points of Inteeest. Fareham *Titchfield Church. *Ruins of Titchfield House, Boarhunt Church. PoRCHESTER *Castle and Church. Line of Forts. Nelson's Pillar. Portsmouth St. Thomas's Church. ^Dockyard. ^Victory in the Harbour. ^Victualling Yard at Gosport. Sea Forts. *Exc. to the Isle of Wight. Havant Church. Warblington Church. Hayling Island. Petersfield . . . . *View from Butser Hill. *Church of East Meon. ^Church and remains of Manor-house at Warn- ford. *Corhampton Church. Old Winchester Hill. Lyndhurst *Ohurch. Queen's House. *Exc. to different parts of the New Forest. *Stoney Cross and Rufus's Stone. *Oak-trees called " The Twelve Apostles," near Burley Lodge. Brockenhurst . . . . *Church. *Exc. to different parts of the Forest. *Boldre Church. Lymington *Buckland Eings. *Hurst Castle. *Milford Church. *Hordwell Cliffs. Christchurch .. *Church. ^Remains of Norman House. Hen- gistbury Head. Mudeford. *High Cliff. *Sopley Church. *View from St. Catherine's Hill. *Exc. to Bournemouth and Southbourne. RiNGWOOD Church. *Somerley (pictures at). Moyle's Court and Ellingliam Church. Fordingbridge Church and Rockbourne. *Exc. to different parts of the Forest. Stookbridge . . . . Churches of King Sombourn and Little Sombourn Broughton. The Wallops. Andover Church. *Bury Hill. *Church of Upper Clat- ford. Wherwell. Churches of Chilbolton, *Barton Stacey, and *Longparish. *Exc. to Highclere. Grately *Grately Church. Quarley Mount. *Amport *Thruxton Church. Whitchurch . . . . Church. *Hurstbourne Priors (pictures at). Kingsclere *Church. *Exc. by Highclere, and by Egbury Hill, to Whitchurch. [For the Me of Wight, see p. 384.] No. III.— AN ANTIQUAEIAN AND AKTISTIC TOTJE. SURREY. — Dulwich Gallery (pictures). Croydon Church and Hall of Palace. Beddington Hall and Church. Chaldon Church (frescoes). Merstham Church. Gatton (pictures at, and Churcli). Reigate Church. 14 Sheleton Tours, Introd. The Pilgrims' Way on the Downs. Orowhurst, Church and Manor-house. Lingfield Church. The Deepdene (pictures and sculpture). Wotton Church. Abinger Church. St. Mary's Church, Guildford. Guildford Castle. Archbishop Abbot's Hospital, Guildford. Sutton Place. Loseley. Compton Church. Peperharow Church. Farnham Church and Castle. Waverley Abbey. Woking Church. Newark Priory. Stoke d'Abernon, Church and brasses. Cowley House, Chertsey. Runnymede. Walton Church, and Bradshaw's House. Wokey's Tower, Esher. Kingston Church and Coronation Stone. HAMPSHIRE.— Odibam Church and Castle. Bramsbill. Basingstoke Church, and Chapel of the Holy Ghost. Ruins of Basing House and Basing Church. The Vyne. Silchester. Winchester Cathedral and other remains in the city. St. Cross. St. Martin's Church, Headbourne Worthy. Ruins of Palace at Bishop's Waltham. Romsey Abbey Church. Walls and early houses at Soutliampton. Bar-gate and God's House there. Font in St. Michael's Church. Remains of Clausentum. Netley Abbey. Beaulieu Abbey. Titcbfield Church, and Ruins of Titcbfield House. Boarhunt Church. Porch ester Castle and Church. East Meon Church. Church and Ruins of Manor-house at Warnford. Corhampton Church. Rufus's Stone in the New Forest. Brockenhurst Church. Buckland Rings, Lymington. Milford Church. Christchurch Church. Remains of Norman House, Christchurch. Sopley Church. Bury Hill. Andover. Churches of Upper Clatford, Chilbolton, Barton Stacey, and Longparish. Grately Church. Quarley Mount. Thruxton Church. Hurstbourne Priors (pictures at). Kingsclere Church. No. IV.— A PEDESTEIAN TOUE ALONG THE NOETH AND SOUTH DOWNS. {For 'portions of the following Tour — luliich ivill he found a very delightful one — see the Handbook for Kent and Sussex.) Days. 1. From Reigate, along the Chalk Downs, by Boxhill to Dorking. 2. Ascend Leith Hill ; and proceed by Shore and Gomshall to Guildford, visiting Newland's Corner and St. Martha's Hill on the way. 3. By the Hog's Back to Farnham, visiting Loseley and Compton by the way. 4. Across Hindhead, and by the Devil's Punchbowl, to Headley ; thence through Woolmer Forest to Selbourne. 5. By Hawkley to Petersfield. 6. Through the Forest of Bere to Rowland's Castle. 7. By Stanstead Park and Bowhill to Cocking. 8. Along the Downs to Bignor. See the Roman Villa. Sleep at the White Horse, Sutton. 9. Along the Downs by Amberley to Storrington. Visit Parham. 10. By Chanctonbury Ring, Steyning, and the Devil's Dyke, to Poyniugs. 11. Along the Downs (over Mount Harry) to Lewes. 12. Lewes to Beachy Head and Eastbourne. ( 15 ) ROUTES. The names of places are printed in italics only where the places are described. ROUTE PAGE 1. London to Croydon, by Sydenham and Norwood Junction 15 2. London to East Grinstead, by Croydon [^Sander stead, Addington, West Wich- hatii] Harden ParJc and Oxted 22 3. London to the Crystal Pa- lace. 1. London & Brigli- ton Lines. II. London^ Chatham and Dover Lines 30 4. London to Iledhill and Horley, by Merstham [Oa- tei'ham, Chelsham, Chip- stead, Nutfield^Bletchingley, Godstone, Crowhiirst, Ling- field, Charlwood, Burstovi] 33 5. Redhill Junction to Borh- ing and Guildford by Bei- gate, Betchworth, Box-hill, Chilworth, and Shalford [Leith-hill, Albury'] ... 45 6. London to Horsham, by Dulivich, Epsom, Leather- head, and Dorking. . . 77 7. London to [Hampton Court] Weyhridge, by Wimhledon, Esher, and Walton - on - Thames \_Kingston, Thames ROUTE PAGE Ditton, East and West Moleseyl 94 8. London to Richmond and Keri\ by Wandsworth, Put- ney, Barnes, MortlaJce, and Sheen Ill 9. London to Bagshot, by Eg- ham 130 10. London to Guildford, by Surhiton, Oxshott, Cohham, Horsley and Clandon . .136 11. Leatberhead to Guildford and Farnham, by Great and Little Boohham, East and West Horsley, East and West Clandon [Loseley, Puttenham, Waverley, Moor Park, Tilford, Frensham^. 143 12. Guildford to Horsham, by Cranley [Ewhursf], . . 156 13. Weybridge to Chertsey [St Anne^s-hilT] 158 14. Weybridge to Farnhorough, by Wohing [St. George's Hill, Byfleet, Pirbright, and Frimley. Alder shof] . .165 15. Woking to Haslemere, by Godalming [Hascombe, Hamhledon, Peperharow, Hindhead'] 174 ROUTE 1. LONDON TO CROYDON [SYDENHAM NORWOOD.] L.B. and S.C, Bly. 10 ^ m. Several of the South Eastern trains also run to Croydon, but do not stop at the intermediate sta- tions. The line is carried on a brick viaduct for the first 2 m. ; the S. London line (Rte. 2) running parallel with it on S. At i m. is seen 1. St. John's Church, Horsely- down, on which an ill-proportioned Ionic column does duty as a spire, and deserves notice as one of the most absurd of modern ecclesiastical erections. The suburb of Bermondsey (Beor- mund's-ig, ey, or island), passed through before gaining the open 16 Boute 1. — London to Croydon. Sect. 1. country, had once an unenviable notoriety as a breeding-place for cholera and fever, but the Southern main drainage works have greatly benefited it. Since the destruction of the Clunaic Abbey here — in which Katherine, queen of Henry V. died (1437), and in which Eliza- beth Woodville, widow of Edward IV., was imprisoned by Henry VII., and died in 1492 — Bermondsey has been the grand haunt of tanners, parchment and glue makers, and leather-dressers, to whom its nume- rous watercourses, rising and falling with the tidal current from the river, are very convenient, though, being mere beds of mud twice a day, they are unfavourable to health. One of the principal leather-works in the kingdom (Messrs. Beving- ton's, the Neckinger Mills), and perhaps the largest hat manufactory in the world (Messrs. Christy's), are to be found here ; and to the leather and skin market in Snow's fields are brought most of the sheepskins from the vast metropolitan supply. A dense population has clustered about these large establishments ; and the squalor of some of the uiost crowded quarters is excessive. About 1 m. from London-bridge, lyiDg beyond St. James's Church, is the district called Jacob's Island, the scene of Bill Sikes's death in Dickens's story; but many of the worst buildings have been pulled down since 'Oliver Twist' was written. After passing St. James s Church 1. the line crosses the site of the an- cient enclosures of the abbey, and continues for some distance skirted on either side by very productive market gardens. They may be compared with the wide-spreading Belgian gardens of the Pays de Waes (between Ghent and Ant- werp) ; but if the award of neat- ness must be assigned to our Flemish cousins, the quality of the crops raised here is very far superior. In the distance, rt., is seen the Crystal Palace ; 1. rise the wooded heights of Greenwich Park, with the cupolas of the Hospital below them. At 2 m. rt., a junction line passes to the Bricklayers* Arms goods station, used jointly by the Brighton and South Eastern Railway companies. Midway between this and New Cross is South Bermondseij, the first stat. on the South London line (Rte. 2). 3 m. New Cross Stat. The East London line, starting from the Ter- minus of the Great Eastern Rly. in Liverpool-street, unites the lines N. and S. of London, by a passage through the Thames Tunnel, and communicating with the Brighton Station by a covered way. On 1. on high ground is the Royal Naval School, founded under the patronage of Queen Adelaide, with the object of qualifying its pupils (whether sons of naval officers or not) for the Universities, the naval, military, and Indian services, at an inex- pensive rate. It was opened in 1845. The architect has followed a design by Sir C. Wren. The line rises from the New Cross Station with a steep incline (1 foot in 100, or rather more than 52 feet in 1 m.), and is carried through a wide cutting in the London clay, 80 feet deep in the highest part. At 4 m. is Brockley Stat., giving access to Lewisliam. Emerging from the cut- ting we reach 5J m. Forest-hill Stat., where the country, although covered with villas in every style of architecture, becomes wooded and interesting. " It is impossible," says Southey, " not to like the villas, so much opu- lence and so much ornament is visible about them ; but it is also impossible not to wish that the domestic archi- tecture of England v^^ere in better taste. ' ' — Espr ie lla's Letters, Surrey. Boute i. — Sydenliam- \ — Norwood Junction, 1^ QuittiDg the station Shooters' -hill is seen, 1., and the spire of Becken- ham Church (see Handbook for Kent). 6 J m. Sydenham Stat. This, once one of the most pleasant of the villages round London, is now little more than a collection of groups of villas, and detached houses of large size. Campbell, the poet, resided for a time at Peak Hill, near the site of the station, which is in a walled cutting, formerly the bed of the Croydon Canal. A short branch strikes off to the Crystal Palace (post), the entrance to which, on the Sydenham side, is but ^ m. off. [^Dnlwich College and Picture Gallery may be reached from this station by a pleasant walk of less thaa 3 m., the greater part of the way through what was once Dulwich Wood. Though the birch trees and wood anemones have disappeared before the advance of brick and mortar, something of the striking view of London, for which its summit was famous, still remains unimpeded. For Dulwich, see p. 77.] The Crystal Palace may be reached by all the southern railways, also, via Clapham Junction, or Holborn- viaduct, by all the northern ones. The Mid-Kent line from Charing- cross has a station at Lower Syden- ham, about one mile from the lower part of the grounds; and the Brighton, and the London Chatham and Dover Companies' stations at Penge are scarcely a stone's throw from the Palace garden-entrance. For the palace itself, its gardens, its courts, and tlie populus statuarum" which throng them, the visitor must have recourse to the excellent Hand- books sold in the building. Perhaps the best general view of the palace is obtained in passing up the garden from the Penge entrance. The views, both Kent and London- ward, from the high ground of what was once Sydenham Common, are ^Surrey, &c.'] fine a-nd extensive, embracing Har- row and the Knockholt beeches (seO Handbook for Kent). The Watling^ street passed in this neighbourhood J and in 1806 there was found here in a gravel-pit, together with other Eoman antiquities, fragments of a bronze plate— a " tabula honestse missionis," or honourable discharge from military service of certain veterans serving witli the troops in Britain. It was t)f the time of Trajan (a.d. 98-117), and is figured in Lyson's Beliquise Romanas. 7 m. Penge Stat. The village, now consisting of streets, terraces, and semi-detached villas, lies E. of the station. The spire of a good modern church of Dec. character rises beyond. Opposite is seen the Watermen''s Asylum, founded by Queen Adelaide in 1840, and con- sisting of 41 houses for decayed watermen. The general design is good. Close by, in Penge-lane, is King Williani's Naval Asylum for widows of naval officers. At Penge is also a station of the London Chatham and Dover Rail- way, which here crosses the Brighton line, and passes into Kent. 7 J m. Anerley Stat., so named from a former owner of the sur- rounding estate. The Crystal Palace rises above the trees, rt. The Aner- ley entrance, about J m. from the station, introduces the visitor at once to the banks of the lower lake, with its Iguanodons, Ichthyosauri, Laby- rinthodons, and other "delicate monsters." 8J m. Norwood Junction Stat. This is a large stat., at which the West-End branch of the Brighton and South Coast Railway unites with the main line ; it also serves to connect the lines that meet at Clapham Junct. (p. 23) with the Kentish lines. On the hill, rt., is seen Upper c 18 ttouie 1, —London to Croydon* Sect. t. Norwood Clmrch, a modern building of no intereht ; and below it, over the ridge, lay the once famous Beulali (beautiful) Spa^ in a hollow sur- rounded by coppices. The spa, with its buildings, fell long since into de- cay, and the site has been covered with villas. There is here a private hotel and hydropathic establish- ment ; and on other favourable sites in Norwood are several hotels (the Queen's, Gliurch-road ; Koyal Crystal Palace, Anerley-road ; Cam- bridge, Westow-hill- terrace, &c.), which afford excellent accommo- dation to visitors attracted by the pleasantness of the situation and the vicinity of the Crystal Palace. The hills and thickets of Norwood — "Norwood's oak-clad hill" — (some of which, like that on which the Crystal Palace stands, rise to 395 feet above the sea-level, and com- mand noble views), now dotted with villas in every direction, were once a favourite haunt of the gipsies, who ranged from here to the immediate neighbourhood of London. Bricks and mortar, however, Lave driven them off. A famous tree called the *' Vicar's Oak" marked in Aubrey's time the point at which met the 4 parislies of Battersea, Camberwell, Streatham, and Croydon ; and under its broad branches the " perambu- lators " of the parishes feasted at their annual "beating of the bounds." This was the great tree of Norwood, growing to an unusual size in the deep clay soil. After passing on the 1. the Royal Masonic Benevolent Institution, at 10 m. on rt. is the line to West Croydon, Sutton, &c. (Kte. 6.) lOJ m. East Croydon Stat. The ornamented red-brick building on 1. is the Royal Masonic Benevolent Institution. Croydon Inns : Greyhound, in the High -street, Crown. Pop. of the parish, which includes the liamlets of Woodside and Waddon, and part of Norwood, 79,000 in 1881, being an increase of 24.000 since 1871. The Registrar-General attributes this large increase to *'the great facilities afforded by railway commu- nication," which are indeed abun- dant, there being no less than seven rly. stations. These are : — (1) East Croydon, on the main line of the Brighton and South Coast and South Eastern Rlys. (2) New Croydon, adjoining the last, and entered through the same gateway. It serves for the West- End line to Victoria, and by means of tlie West London Extension connects tlie southern with the northern lines, all over the country. (3) Addiscomhe-road, 1 m. E., is the Croydon Stat, of the South Eastern (Mid Kent) line. (4) Central Croydon and (5) South Croydon, render access to the lower part of the town more easy than heretofore. (6) West Croydon, in Wellesley- road, is the station for some of the trains for Epsom, &c. (for others see Rte. 6), and for those to Mitcham and Wimbledon (Rte. 7). (7) Waddon, on the Epsom, line, really a suburb of Croydon. Croydon is a newly enfranchised borough, having a register of 12,000 voters : it is also an assize town, the summer assizes being held alter- nately here and at Guildford. The Town-hall, in which the assizes are held, is a substantial semi-classic editice, built in 1809, by S. P. Cockerel!, (father of the late dis- tinguished R.A.). A spacious and handsome Public Hall, for lectures, concerts, and assemblies, was erected in George-street in 1862. Croydon has a considerable corn- market on Thursday and Saturday, a cattle-market on Thursday. The annual fair (Oct. 2) is a cattle fair, but is much resorted to by pleasure- seekers, and is famous for its supply of walnuts. It is worth noting that Croydon, Surrey. Boute 1. — Croydon, 19 the first place to apply for powers under the Health of Towns Act, has carried out a complete sj'Stem of connected water-supply and pipe- drainage, and has for nearly 30 years been attempting the solution of the difficult question of the eco- nomical appliance of sewage. The Board of Health have some 500 acres of meadows near Beddington, which they hold on lease at a rent of 10?. per acre, and on which they deposit the sewage of the town, partly in open gutters, and partly distributed among the vegetation. These works, although of benefit from a sanitary point of view, are carried on at a considerable pecuniary loss to the town. Many interesting experiments in the growth of mangolds and rye-grass have been made on the farm. The manor of Croydon was given by the Conqueror to Abp. Lanfranc, who is said to have founded the archiepiscopal palace here, which his successors continued to make their occasional residence until about 1750. The remains of this Palace are among the principal objects of interest remaining in Croydon; others being the Church and Abp. Whitgiffs Hospital. The remains of the Palace adjoin the church, in the lowest and for- merly a very unhealthy part of the to wn. " Croydon House is no whole- some house," wrote Abp. Grindal in 1575 ; and when Abp. Abbot cut down the timber which environed it, Lord Bacon is reported to have said, " By my troth he has done very judiciously, for, before, me thought it was a very obscure and darke place, but now he has expounded and cleared it wonderfully well." Notwithstanding this " expound- ing," however, and in spite of large sums expended here after the Kestor- ation by Abps. Juxon and Herring, the palace continued " unwhole- some " and " incommodious ; " and after lying quite deserted for more than 20 years, was finally sold by auction, under the provisions of an Act of Parliament, in October, 1780. Croydon Palace was visited by Queen Elizabeth, Avho was enter- tained here by Abp. Parker in April, 1567, and again in July, 1573. On one of these occasions the marriage- hating Queen took leave of the arch- bishop's wife with the well-known speech, — " Madam, I may not call you ; mistress I am ashamed to call you ; and so I know not what to call you ; but, however, I thank you." Grindal, Parker's successor, was not so honoured ; but Whitgift received Elizabeth here, in August, 1600. The latest archbishops who resided for any length of time at Croydon were Tillotson and Tenison. From the end of the last century until 1885, the hall and some of the other rooms were used as a great washing establishment, but in 1887 the palace was purchased from the Starey family by the Duke of New- castle, who has placed it at the dis- posal of the Kilburn Sisters. In its original state, the palace with its offices formed an irregular quadrangle, about 156 feet from E. to W., and 126 from N. to S. Of the existing remains, the Hall (com- monly called from the name of the occupier, Oswald's Hall) is of Perp. character, of the latter part of the reign of Henry VI., and has its timber roof tolerably perfect. It has however, been much damaged by the laundry operations ; the walls being thickly covered with white- wash, and all the carvings defaced except on the corbels which support the principal timbers of the roof. These consist of shields of the arms of Abp. Stafford and his successors. The bearings retain their original blazoning, and may be easily exam- ined, the upper floor being on a level with them. The exterior of the hall is as much defaced as the interior ; but observe a Perp. entrance porch, c 2 20 Boute 1. — London to Croydon. Sect. 1. with low groined roof in good pre- servation. Tii8 Great Chamber or Galleryj 50 ft. by 22, having near the centre on one side a large bay window, and on the other a lofty fireplace, has been a fine room, but has been cut up into a variety of bed-rooms and sitting-rooms, and the mouldings, stone work of win- dows, &c., have all been irretrievably damagec). The Withdravnng-room is in the adjoining dwelling-house, and has a fine oriel window. At the E. end of the Great Chamber is a bedroom supposed to be Queen Elizabeth's state-room. A little N. is the Chapel, long used as an industrial school. Much of it is apparently of Ihe same date as the J; all, but some of the interior wood- work was placed here by Abps. Laud and Juxon. All the internal wood- work lias been thickly covered with a dirty yellow paint, and boarding has been carried up from the screen to the roof, so as to cut off the W. end of the room, and what is known as " Queen Elizabeth's Pew." The exterior walls and much of the woodwork throughout are in excellent preservation, and it is to be hoped that so interesting a relic, offering as it does infinite possi- bilities to the restorer, may not be allowed to fall into decay. Close to the palace is the Church (St. John the i3aptist), a large and handsome structure of flint and stone, which ranks as one of the finest in the county. It was burnt through the overheating of a stove, January 5, 1867, but was rebuilt in 1870 by the late Sir G. Scott, who had re- stored the original edifice in 1859. It consisted, like the present church, of a nave and three aisles, two chancels, and a massive tower of four stories at the W. end. The whole was Perp. ; the greater part having been built by Abp. Chicheley (1414-43), founder of All Souls' College, Oxford. There were many fine monuments, but these perished in the fire, and the fragments of two only remain in a state susceptible of restoration. These are for Abps. Whitgift and Sheldon. The most noticeable of those destroyed were, that of Thomas War ham, uncle of the archbishop (there is a very similar one at Beddington, p. 83); that of Abp. Grindal, in the main chancel ; an altar -tomb for Eli as Davey, founder of some almshouses near the church, d. 1455; some Elizabethan tombs (as of the Herons) with coloured effigies ; and a pleasing bas-relief by Flaxman, on the monu- ment of Anne Bowling. Four or five Brasses were stolen and broken up during the repairs of the church in 1859 ; but the late rebuilding brought to light one to a priest, Silvester Gabriel, d. 1512, and there is a modern brass to Cottingham, the architect, d. 1847, and a similar memorial for Elias Davy. The re- built church has a good panelled roof, a handsome reredos, and some indifferent painted windows ; the lectern, a brass eagle, is ancient. The organ, a noted one by Avery, perished in the fire, and has been replaced by a very fine one by Hill and Son. Alexander Barclay, author of the ' Ship of Fools,' an adaptation from the earlier work of Sebastian Brandt, was buried in the old church, June 10, 1552. In his * Eclogues* he more than once mentions Croy- don. Beside St. John's, Croydon has fourteen modern churches, and several chapels, one or two of them of some architectural pretension. The Wandle, which falls into the Thames at Wandsworth, rises a short distance W. of the chuich, and speedily becomes a stream of some importance. There is a pleasant walk along its 1. bank, past Waddon Mill, to Beddington, 2 m., once the seat of the Carews. (See p. 83.) WhitgifVs Hospital, founded 1593, stands in the higher part of the town, at the corner of George-street, which Surrey. Boute 1. — WMtgiffs Hospital, 21 leads to the East Croydon Stat. The building, a plain ispecimen of Elizabethan architecture, cost the archbishop above 2700Z. ; and it is endowed with lands which now produce a large annual rental. It supports a warden, schoolmaster, and 20 poor brothers, who, besides lodging, receive each 40Z. per annum, and 16 sisters, who receive each 30Z. The school attached was intended to receive ten poor boys and as many girls. "Oldham the poet was for three years an usher here under John Shep- herd, who was appointed schoolmaster in 1675. Here he wrote his satires upon the Jesuits, and here he was honoured with a visit from the Earls of Rochester and Dorset, Sir Charles Sedley, and other persons of distinc- tion, who had seen some of his works in MS., and wished for a personal acquaintance with him. By a very natural mistake they were introduced to Shepherd the master, who would willingly have taken the honour of the visit to himself, but was soon con- vinced, to his mortification, that he had neither wit nor learning enough to make a party in such company." — Li/sons. The school remains, with the name of Whitgift's Poor School, but in consequence of the great increase in the value of the property, the foundation was reorganized in 1871, and an additional one established, which now gives a middle-class education to 300 boys. The build- ing, a red-brick structure, with central tower, a little N. of the hospital, was erected at a cost of 15,000L, by Blomfield. The hospital, of dark red brick with stone quoins, and displaying the founder's initials in the gables, forms a double quadrangle, the area of which is laid out in grass plats. The building was restored in 1860. Over the entrance are the arms of the see of Canterbury, with the in- scription " Qui dat pauper i non in- digebit." In the chapel, at the S.E. angle, which retains its ancient fittings, is a portrait of Abp. A\' hit- gift, with the lines — " Feci quod potui ; potui quod, Christe, dedisti ; Improba, fac melius, si potes, Invidia." Here is also the portrait of a lady, supposed to be one of the arch- bishop's daughters ; and a curious outline drawing of Death, the Skele- ton digging a grave. A black-letter Bible (Baker's ed. 1595), said to have been presented to the hospital by Queen Elizabeth, is carefully cherished. Above the hall are some panelled rooms re- served by the founder for his own use, in which he frequently enter- tained his " entire and honourable friends " on their visits to Croydon : they are now occupied by the war- den, who very readily and court- eously shows them to the visitor. The seal of the hospital is a curious representation of the parable of the rich man and Lazarus. In the upper part Dives is seen feasting, attended by his wife, who wears an Eliza- bethan rutf and head-dress; below is Lazarus, licked by the dogs, and receiving a dish of " crumbs " from a porter in trunk hose. The views from Duppa's-MU, W. of the town, are extensive : a portion of the hill has been set apart for a public park, but the remainder is now built over. The walk thence, over the Banstead Downs, is a very pleasant one. (For the country on this side of Croydon, lying along the course of the Dorking and Horsham railway, see Kte. 6.) Haling House (Mrs. Watney), 1 m. S. of Croydon, occupies the site of a mansion in which died Lord Howard of Effingham, who defeated the Spanish Armada; he is buried at Keigate (Kte. 5). 1 m. E. of Croydon and over the boundary between Surrey and Kent is AddiscoTYibe, where stood the Boyal 22 Boute 2. — Victoria to East Or instead. Sect. I. Military College for cadets of the East India Army ; pulled down 1863. J m. E. of Addiscombe is Shirley House, the grounds of which are very beautiful. Shirley is a hamlet of Croydon, with a very elegant Dec. church of black flint with stone dressings. Shirley Com- mon, once a favourite haunt of the botanist and the sketcher, is now little more than a name, through the joint effect of inclosure and building. Historic Notes on Croydon. Croydon is a place of great anti- quity : its name in Doomsday is Oroindene ; the real signification of which seems uncertain. The site was originally further W. than the present town, toward Beddington. This old Croydon, at one time thought to have been the ancient " Noviomagus," now placed at Hol- wood Hill (see Handbook for Kent), has altogether disappeared. Its com- paratively modern successor, with its long High-street, from which others, short and steep, branch off towards the church, in the low ground west- ward near the springs of the Wandle, contains some points of interest for the antiquary from its hospitals and almshouses, and the relics of the old archiepiscopal palace. These ves- tiges of antiquity are, however, dis- appearing, giving place to the requirements of a modern suburb. Lines of villas encircle the town, the neighbourhood of which being pleasant and picturesque, and within easy reach of the city, is a favourite residence for men of business. The early descriptions of Croydon, such as Hannay's, temp. Chas. II., — " In midst of these stands Croydon, clothed in blacke, In a low bottom sinke of all these hills; And is receipt of all the dm'tie wracke, Which from their tops still in abund- ance trills" — are indebted for their blacker " features to the great number of smiths and colliers (charcoal- burners) with which the place abounded. " The colliers of Croydon, The rustics of Roy don," are mentioned in the old play of ' Locrine,' published 1595 ; and ' Grim the collier of Croydon, or the Devil and his Dame,' is the title of a comedy written about 1662. The resemblance between the two, how- ever, is explained to be only an out- ward one. This resemblance seems to have been a frequent source of pleasantry. Thus Greene in his ' Quip for an Upstart Courtier ' (quoted by Steinman) — "Marry, quoth hee that lookt like Lucifer, though I am black I am not the Devill, but indeed a collyer of Croydon." And Crowley in his ' Satirical Epigrams ' (1551) speaks of " The Collier that at Croydon doth dwell, Men think he is cousin to the Collier of Hell." The charcoal trade here was quite extinguished at the end of the last century, by which time the use of Newcastle or " sea " coal had become nearly general. EOUTE 2. VICTORIA TO EAST GRINSTEAD, BY CROYDON [SANDERSTEAD, AD- DINGTON, WEST WICKHAM] MAR- DEN PARK, AND OXTED. This, the West-End line, crosses the Thames, a little E. of the Chel- sea Suspension -bridge, by a hand- some bridge of 4 arches, designed by Mr. J. Fowler, but since greatly widened to accommodate the in- creasing traffic. The first stat. is Surrey. Boute 2. — Battersea — Sanderstead. 23 f m. Battersea Park Stat. The park, which is admirably laid out, was formed in 1 855 out of Battersea Fields, and includes the site of the old Ked House, noted for pigeon- shooting and duelling : it was here that the hostile meeting took place between the Duke of Wellington and Lord Winchilsea in 1829. Battersea Park has an area of nearly 200 acres, of which 34 acres are appro- priated to cricket and play-grounds, and 23 are ornamental water; the remainder is planted. This park, so little known even by Londoners, is in reality the most beautiful in London, and should be visited during the summer months for the sake of its Sub-Tropical Garden, the finest in this country. For Battersea, wliich lies W. of the park, see p. 94. 2f m. Clapham June. Stat., the chief connecting link between the rlys. of tlie N. and S. of England, occupies a very large space, and has 8 platforms and staircases, all con- nected by a gloomy brickwork tun- nel. An enormous amount of traffic passes through this junction, along the network of lines which con- verge to one point. It has been calculated that the daily average number of trains passing both ways through Clapham Junction exceeds 1300. The cabstand is at the S. end of tunnel. The lines that connect here are : — (1) The Great Western (and with it the Metropolitan) via Ken- sington. (2) The North Western (and with it the North London) via Addison- road and Willesden Junc- tion. (3) The Great Northern, (4) The Midland, and (5) The Great Eas- tern, all via the Metropolitan and the L. C. & D. The South Eastern has no direct communication with Clapham Junc- tion, but it is readily reached from the Cha ring-cross line via Waterloo. For Clapham, IJ m. S. of the stat., see p. 31. The red- brick build- ing on the summit of the cutting on the 1. is the Royal Freemasons' School for girls. 3f m, Wandsworth Common Stat. On 1. Battersea Cemetery ; rt. the Koyal Victoria Patriotic Schools, seen to more advantage from the South Western line. For Wands- worth, see p. 113. 4f m. Balham Stat. This is a hamlet of Streatham, which contains many good suburban residences and a district church. On 1. a branch runs to the Crystal Palace (see Rte. 3, 1.). The main line crosses the Epsom, Dorking, and Horsham Rly. (Rte. 6), has stats, at Streatham Common (6f m.), Thornton Heath (9 m.), at which point some trains branch otf by Selhurst Stat. (9| m.), and run into the terminus of West Croydon ; but trains going through to East Grinstead, Tunbridge Wells and Brighton proceed by East Croydon Stat, to South Croydon (for description of Croydon see p. 18), Selsdon Road June., from which a branch line connects Croydon with Lewisham and the North London line. 12J m. Sanderstead Stat. From this point a very pleasant excursion may be made through Safiderstead, li m., thence to Addington, 2 J m. farther, and West Wickliam, 1 m., returning to Croydon by Shirley. The entire distance is about 8 m. Leaving Sanderstead station the tourist soon ascends to the village of Sanderstead, on the plastic clay, 576 feet above tlie sea-level; the views over parts of Surrey and Kent are well worth seeking. The Churchy of flint and stone, mainly Perp., was restored in 1846. Besides some 17th-century monuments there are one or two Brasses^ now loose and 24 JRoute 2. — Victoria to East GrinsteacL Sect. 1. kept at tlie rectory, the naost im- portant being a palimpsest of John Awodde and his wife Dyones, 1525. Of the monuments observe — one with a kneeling figure of John Ownstead, servant to Queen Eliza- beth, and '^Serjant of her Ma""' Carriage by y" space of 40 years," d. 1600 ; an altar-tomb, with a well- executed recumbent effigy of Maria Bedell, d. 1655; a mural monu- ment on a spandrel of one of the nave arches, with an effigy of Jo- anna Ownstead, d. 1587, and two small modern brasses. Notice, on N. wall, the monument of George, son of Plenry Mellisli (died Nov. 18, 1693, £et. 23). He is represented in a flowing wig, and is honoured with a magniloquent epitaph des- criptive of his many virtues. In one corner of this retired and picturesque churchyard rest the re- mains of Sir Francis Bond Head, Bart., distinguished as an officer, as Governor of Canada, and as author of 'A Ride across the Pampas ' and ' Bubbles from the Brunnen,* d. 1875. There are two fine old yews in the cliurch-yard ; and the sket- cher will find the church itself, wath its tall roofs and low shingled spire, worth his attention. The lich-gate is modern. Selsdon (Bishop of Rochester), J m. E. of Sanderstead Court, is a very large castellated mansion, finely situated, and commanding extensive views. The adjoining village is a model of neatness. Through a very pleasant, undu- lating country, we reach Addington, 2J m. N.E. from Sanderstead. On 1. are the well-wooded grounds of BaUards (Charles Gosclien, Esq.). Addington Park is said to occupy the site of a hunting lodge of Heni-y VIII. 's, which succeeded a manor- house of the Aguilons, licensed to be fortified in 1270, and since 1807 has been the country residence of the Abps. of Canterbury. It was purchased, with the manor of Ad- dington, in that year by Abp. Sut- ton, "with trust moneys of the see which had been assigned for the purpose, in place of Croydon Pal- ace and much land was sub- sequently added by Abp. Howley. The house, which is little more than a large country mansion, was built by Alderman Trecothick about 1770; but a chapel, a library, and other apartments w^ere added by Abp. Howley in 1830. The grounds contain many fine cedars, firs, and rhododendrons. The park is large, broken in surface, and w^ell-wooded, and commands good views from the higher ground where it rises tow^ard the Addington Hills. The arch- bishops -usually pass the last half of the year here. The exterior walls of Addington Church, which adjoins the park, were refaced in 1848, when the porch was erected, and the interior restored. The chancel is late Norm. ; the nave E. E. At the E. end, wliich much resembles that of Dar- en th (see Handhooh for Kent), are 8 small round-headed window^s, and the outline of another may be traced in the wall above. On the N. side of the chancel is a large 16th- century monument for the Leigh family. Brasses: John Leigh and his wife Isabel, 1509 and 1544; Thos. Hattecljfte, one of the household of Henry VIIL, 1540. In the nave is a mural monument to Manners Sutton, Yisct. Canter- bury (d. 1848), Speaker of the House of Commons from 1817 to 1835. There is also a large monu- ment for Alderman Trecothick, the builder of Addington House, who expended much on the church. To the archbishops who have resided at Addington there are — in the chancel, an altar-tomb to Abp. Howley, d. 1848, with a Bible on a cushion, and crosier laid on it ; and a plain marble mural slab to Abp. Sumner, d. 1862. Abp. Longley (d. 1868) is buried in the open groun^l in the Surrey. Bou te 2 . — WicMam. 25 same grave as Mrs. Levett, his daughter; a small white marble cross marks the spot. The N. aisle and vestry were added in 1876. The churchyard is kept in orna- mental order, and the village, almost wholly rebuilt by Abp. Sumner, consists of very neat cottages with flower-beds in front. A small Inn (the Cricketers) will be found very comfoitable. A group of 25 tumuli, all of which have been opened, may still be traced on Thunderfield common above the village. Like many other Surrey parishes, Addington looks back to a golden age; and there is a lingering tradition that the village was once " a far greater place" than at present. Tlie Domesday survey records that the manor was bestowed after the Con- quest on Tezelin, the king's cook," and the Serjancia Coquina3 " long continued the tenure by which some portions of it were held. William de Aguiloii, temp. Hen. III., held certain lands here by the service of making "liaslias" in the kiag's kitchen on the day of his corona- tion ; or, if he preferred it, he might display his culinary talents in the concoction of "giroun" or " malpi- gernoun" — dishes which anti- quaries pronounce to have been made of minced chickens and milk of almond. The lord of the manor of Addington (now the Abp. of Canterbury) is by custom bound to present a dish of pottage " to the sovereign at his coronation dinner in Westminster Hall. West Wickliam, 1 m. N.E. from Addington, lies just outside the county, in Kent, but may be con- veniently visited from here, and deserves a Visit for the sake of its Church, which is interesting, and for the picturesque red-brick and ivy-clad house close by it, WicTcham Court (Sir J. F. Cator-Lennard, Bart.), built, says Leland, temp. Edw. IV., by Sir Henry Heydon; considerable additions have been made to it by the present owner. The Kentish "border" is crossed immediately beyond Addington ; and soon appears Clonics Orchard (Lewis Loyd, Esq.), a spacious cas- tellated mansion, erected in 1860 on the site of Wiclcham Parh, Wick- ham Church has been restored, and contains much coloured glass, some of which is ancient and curious. The church is late Per p., and ac- cording to Leland, was built by Sir Henry Heydon, temp, Edw. IV. ; but fragments of an earlier building seem to have been retained or in- serted. Brasses : Wm. Thorpe, rec- tor, 1407; John Stockton, 1515. Kemark also the mutilated effigy of a priest, c. 1370 (Haines). Wickham was for many years the residence of Gilbert West, who died here in 1756, and who has obtained a place in Johnson's ' Lives of the Poets,' on the score of a translation of Pindar. Here "He was very often visited by Lyttelton and Pitt, who, when they were weary of faction and debates, used to find at Wickham books and quiet, a decent table, and literary con- versation. There is at Wickham a walk made by Pitt ; and, what is of far more importance, at Wickham Lyttelton received that conviction which produced his ' Dissertation on the Conversion and Apostleship of St. Paul.' " — Johnson, From Wickham the excursion may be prolonged to Hayes (2 m. N.E.), once the favourite residence of the elder Pitt, and Holwood Hill (2 m. S.) near Keston, where are the re- mains of a largo intrenchment, thought to be the ancient Novio- magus, from whence a noble view is commanded (see Handbook for Kent) ; the rly. stat. at Bromley is distant 3 m. from Holwood. The return from Wickham to Croydon, 4 m., may be made with some difficulty, owing to inclosures, over what was Addington Common ; 26 Boute 2. — Victoria to East Grinstead, Sect. I. but the road between the woods of Addiogton and Sining Park (E. Loyd, Esq.) leading to Shirley, is to be preferred. 15i m. Upper Warlingham Stat. The village of Warlingham lies J m. S.E., partly clustered round a green, and partly scattered over very un- even ground. The Church, restd. 1886, has E.E. portions : near the N. door is a painting in distemper of St. Christopher, 9 ft. high, pro- bably as old as the eh. From Warlingham, the secluded villages of Chelsliam and Farley should be visited, for the sake of the fine prospects commanded. Chelsham church (restored) stands on high ground, about 2J m. E. of Warlingham. The most direct way is by Bull Green, and in front of Ledgers (F. W. Buxton), a modern Jacobean mansion, on the site of an ancient manor-house of the same name ; a somewhat longer route, keeping more to the rt., is by Chelsham Place ; both ways are very pleasant. The Church, which is small, has a Perp. nave, and Dec. chanrel, and two piscinjB. It was restored in 1872. The view from the churchyard is very fine, particu- larly looking northward, where the Crystal Palace, the Greenwich Observatory, and the tower on Shooter's-hill show to advantage. Farley Church, 1\ m. N.W. from Chelsham, through Farley Wood, is small and plain, chiefly E.E., with two very narrow lancet E. windows, and a Norm, doorway. The church has been restored, and has lost as well as gained something in the process. In the chancel is a hrass for John Brock, of London, d. 1495, with figures of Brock, his wife, and 5 children. Notice also a grave- stone to Samuel Bernard (d. 1G57), described as " vir nullo foedere foedatus," an expression which has given rise to some controversy as to its meaning. Observe the grand old yew W. of the church, and the picturesque farm-house, surrounded by goodly trees, close by. The manor and living belong to Merton College, Oxford, having been pur- chased by Walter de Merton, the founder. A two-mile walk will bring the traveller back to Upper Warlingham Stat. 17 m. Harden Park Stat. Mar- den Parli, formerly the seat of the Evelyns (mentioned in Evelyn's ' Memoirs,* vol. ii. p. 434) is now the property of Sir W. Clayton, Bart. William Wilberforce resided in it about the close of the last century, and several of his letters are dated fiom thence. A deer park existed here temp. Edw. III., and the manor, which appertains to God- stone, was sold by Sir John Evelyn to the loyal Sir Robert Clayton in 1677. The house, which is in the style of a French chateau, is spacious, and is approached through the park by a drive a mile long. The park is well timbered, in parts remarkably picturesque, and the views from the higher grounds, especially from a flagstaff tower called " The Castle," on AYinder's- hill, which overlooks the Godstone- road, are very extensive. In the garden is a pillar with an inscrip- tion recording the virtues of Thomas Firmin the philanthropist (d. 1697). The pillar was erected by his friend, Lady Clayton, wife of Sir Robert, the first baronet. From the edge of Marden Park a " bourn " sometimes breaks out in wet seasons and runs to the Wandle near Croydon. Its overflowing was formerly held to be " Ominous, and prognosticating some- thing remarkable approaching, as it did before the happy restauration of King Charles the Second, of ever glorious memory, in 1660, — before the plague of London in 1665, — and in 1688, the a3ra of another change of the Constitution," — Aubrey. Surrey. Boute 2. — Oxted. 27 It also broke out in 1868, and con- tinued flowing for some weeks, but no memorable event is known to have followed thereupon. i m. S. lies Woldingham, a truly rural spot ; the whole parish being- divided into two farms of some 500 acres each, called the Manor Farm, or Nether Court Lodge, and the Court Lodge Farm, with about twenty mean cottages. The place once belonged to the Staifords, and by one of them the Nether Court was leased to Sir Thos. Uvedale in 1363. Two bronze fibulsG, stone arrow-heads and celts were found near this spot some years ago. The Church, which stands far from any house, is modern (built 1831), very small and very mean, a compound of flint, stucco and brick, with a w^ooden bell-turret. From the brow of the hill, at the turn of the road, J m. S. of the church, is a very wide and splendid view. 21m. Oxted Stat. The red build- ing on the hill 1. is a home for Missionaries* children built by the Church Missionary Society. The village of Oxted lies to the W. (see p. 41), but ^ m. E. of the station is the village of Limpsfield lying under a picturesque common, dotted with clumps of fir-trees. The Church (restored 1872) is mainly E.E. and Perp., with a Trans.-Norm. tower, in the S. wall of which is a piscina. During the restoration a low side window, E.E., of somewhat uncommon form and in a peculiar position, was discovered. Against the exterior of the W. wall of the church is a monument to the Hon. Mountstuart Elphin stone, who oc- cupied Hook wood, d. 1859, and at the W. end of the S. aisle is a recumbent effigy by Noble of John, 13th Baron Elphinstone, d. 1860. The tower has been tlirown into the ch., and converted into an organ chamber. There is a brass for G. Elyott, Groom of the Chamber to Henrietta Maria (d. 1644), and also much fine modern stained glass ; the church is, on the whole, the most worth visiting in the district. The Manor-house S. of the church was long occupied by the widow of Philip Stanhope, the natural son of Lord Chesterfield, whose well-known letters to her husband were pub- lished by Mrs. Stanhope after his death. Hoohwood, near the church (Gen. Sir R. Meade, K.C.S.I.) ; Trevereux (R. C. H. A'Court, Esq.), at the S.E. extremity of the parish, and Tench- ley, or Tinsley Park (Mrs. Teulon), 1 J m. S.E. ; are among the more noteworthy residences. Detillens House, opposite the Bull Inn, has two fine chimney-pieces of chalk, some good panelling, and a fine king-post in one of the upper rooms. The whole of this country is pleasant and picturesque ; the valley stretching up to the chalk hills is varied by low wooded knolls, whilst a series of open commons extends S.E. towards Tunbridge. Staff orcVs or Staff's Wood, S. of Limpsfield Common, was once a favourite resort of gipsies. The "delicate, whole- some and sweet air " of this district was much commended by Aubrey. 1 m. N. of Limpsfield is Titsey, a village of about 220 inhab. A Roman villa was discovered in 1864 in the park, and also traces of British occu- pation. It is named in Domesday as belonging to the Clares, and in the 14th centy. it passed to the Uvedales, one of whom sold it, c. 1535, to Sir John Gresham (the brother of Sir Thomas), with whose descendant in the female line it still remains. The family being greatly impoverished by the civil war. Sir Maimaduke Gresham suff'ered the manor-house to fall into decay, and died so em- barrassed that an Act of Parliament was obtained to sell the greater part of his estates. His son. Sir John, the last baronet, repurchased some 28 Eoute 2. — Victoria to East Grinstead, Sect. I. ol the property, and built the present mansion (usin^ up some remains of the old one), but he also, in 1776, pulled down the ancient church, Avhich was of the 12th centy., " for no better reason than that it stood too near his new house" (G. L. G.), erecting a tasteless structure in its stead, at some distance, and inclos- ing the churchyard, still marked by some ancient yews, in his grounds. Titsey Flace is the seat of G. Leveson-Gower, Esq., the great- grandson of Sir John. In the dining-room is a fine portrait by Antonio More (which has been en- graved) of Sir Thomas Greshara, founder of the Koyal Exchange. Here are also preserved some good carvings in wood from the old mansion, and some antiquities found on the site. The park and grounds have been considerably enlarged and improved by the present owner ; admission to the garden can be obtained at any time by applica- tion at the lodge. The plantations, one of tlie principal features, are 210 acres in extent. The clump of beeches at the top of the hill, one of the numerous " Coldharbours," is 881 ft. above the sea. A fine spring used to rise in the garden, and was one of the sources of the Medway, but of late years has run dry. The Pilgrims' Way, which is marked in the park by a line of ash-trees, traverses the village, and is perfect as far as Chevening. Mr. Leveson-Gower built the present Church in 1862, from the designs of Mr. Pearson. It is a mixture of E. E. and Dec. in style ; cruciform ; the N. transept serves as a mortuary chapel, and contains the monuments and a brass of the Gres- liam family, removed from the old church, as also the tomb of Mr. AV. L. Gower (d. 1860), and of his wife (d. 1872) ; the S. transept is carried up as a tower, and crowned witli a spire 95 ft. high. The church is (5^^,refully and liberally finished, and forms a conspicuous and picturesque object for many miles round. The little Church at Tatsfield, on the ridge of the chalk hill, 1 m. N.E., is ancient, and worth a visit, though but a plain and humble village church. It is of flint and stone, partly Dec, with some Perp. windows inserted ; but some parts are earlier. Two of the N. windows are meie slits high above the head, and by their splays show the great thickness of the walls. The tower and porch are modern (1838) and poor. The chancel was restored in 1874, and tlie roof in 1882. Observe the pis- cina in the E. wall (behind the curtain) and the double aumbry in the S. wall, both unusual positions. Notice aLo the quatrefoil low side window E. of the chancel arch. E. of the church is a yew of great size, but of several stems. The church stands on high ground, and the views around are very pleasing. The walk to Westerham (Kent), 2J m. E., affords some very wide prospects. From Tatsfield the tourist may re- turn either to Marden Park Stat, or to Oxted Stat 26i m. Lingfield Stat. By the numerons hop-gardens on either side of the line the tourist will see that he is now nearing tlie borders of Kent. Lingfield Church is a large Perp. church (140 ft. by 70), of consider- able interest, having been made col- legiate in 1431 in pursuance of the will of Eeginald, 2nd liOrd Cobham of Sterborough, who died in 1403. The original foundation was for a provost, six chaplains, and " certain clerks of the Carthusian order.*' The college, which stood at the W. end of the churchyard, was very perfect in Aubrey's time, but was taken down in the reign of George I., and a farmhouse built on its site. The Church deserves careful ex- amination. W. of the tower, and at the W, end of the n^v^, sonie Surrey. Boute 2. — Lingjield Church. 29 traces may be discovered of an earlier building ; but the rest of the church is Perp., and the work of Sir Reginald Cobham. Remark — the pavement of square red bricks (in the chancel are two figures in coloured tiles) ; the chancel screens, good though plain ; the oaken lec- tern, on which is laid an old black- letter Bible, ^yith the chain which formerly attached it to the desk ; and the stalls for members of the college, of which 11 remain. The movable seats of several are perfect, having their under sides (subsellai) carved in high relief with heads of ecclesiastics (^observe the remarkable mitre-like appendage of one), armo- rial bearings, flowers, &c. Fragments of stained glass, once scattered throughout the church, have been collected and placed in the E. and W. nave windows, and three memorial windows have been added. The roofs are waggon-shaped. A Perp. altar-tomb, with effigy, near the scrten of the N. aisle, is that of Reginald, 1st Lord Cobham of Sterborough, one of the earliest Knights of the Garter, distinguished at Cressy and Poitiers (d. 1361) ; the garter will be seen on the left leg of the effigy. In the centre of the choir, close against the chancel, is a later altar-tomb of alabaster, with the effigies of Sir Reginald Cobham, and Anne (BarJolf) his wife ; he was the builder of the church and founder of the college. Brasses: Joan Lady Cobham, c. 1370(?); on an altar-tomb against the N. wall, Reginald Lord Cobham, d. 1403 ; a good specimen of early plate-armour. On the floor, Eleanor Lady Cobham, his widow, d. 1422. Seven other brasses still remain, and two more were to be seen within the last few years. They are mostly of mem- bers of the Cobham family, or of masters of the college, and are laid in the choir. There are some later monuments of the Lords Howard of Effingham. The brasses have been restored by Capt. Brooke, of UfFord, Suffolk, a descendant of the Cobhams. N. of the churchyard are some old half-timber houses that should be noticed; notice also in the street opposite the Star Inn, the butcher's shop, a half-timbered house, which retains much of its original character. S. of the church is a farmhouse, called New Place, which well de- serves a visit. It is a Jacobean house, of stone, and the garden walls and gateways are especially interest- ing : it is (1888) being converted into a gentleman's modern residence. At JDormans Land, f m. S.E., is a new E. E. church, erected in 1883. On the green at Plaistow-street, J m. S.W., the largest of several little collections of houses scattered over the parish are — "The remains of a cross, under a most venerable and picturesque oak, or rather skeleton of an oak. The cross itself is gone, but below the foot of it, covered by a modern tiled roof, is a small sandstone building, barely large enough to shelter two, or pos- sibly three, worshippers. This yet retains the appellation of St. Peter's Cross, the parish church having been dedicated to St. Peter." — Hussey. The head of the oak is gone, its roots are bare, and the cross is dirty and somewhat neglected ; but they form, with the pond by which they stand, a group that Prout might have delighted to paint. From the high ground in the S. part of the parish there are some striking views towards East Grin- stead and the Sussex hills. The seats in the neighbourhood of Lingfield are : Felcourt (W. J. Ford, Esq.), Wilderunch (C. Jeddere Fisher, Esq.), Farindons (Mrs. St. Clair), Ford Manor (Mrs. Clay), and Chartham Park (Major Margary). Sterborough Castle, the ancient seat of the Cobhams, lies about 2 m. E. of Lingfield. Nothing remains, 30 Soute 3. — London to Crystal Palace, Sect. I. however, but the moat and some traces of foundations. The present house, occupied by W. Waterhouse, Esq., is modern. The Cobhams who settk^d here belonged to the Cowling branch of the great Kentish family. Eeginald de Cobham, who founded Ster borough in 1342, was present at Cressy and Poitiers, and d. in 1361. His grandson, also Keginald, founded the college (perhaps in imitation of that established at Cobham by the head of his house, Sir John de Cobham, in 1382 ; see Handbook for Kent); and his granddaughter was the aspiring "Dame Eleanor," wife of tlie Protector Duke of Gloucester — "Who swept in through the court with troops of ladies, More like an empress than duke Hum- phrey's wife," — tried for witchcraft by Archbp. Chicheley, and condemned to per- petual imprisonment. This branch of the Cobhams soon after became extinct in the male line, and the castle of Sterborough, after passing by marriage into the hands of the Borough family, at last fell into ruin, and was pulled down. 27f m. Dormans Stat. The coun- try around is thickly wooded and abounds in beautiful walks and drives. At 28 J m. the boundary between Surrey and Kent is crossed, and at 30 m. East Grinstead Stat, is reached, from which the tourist may proceed to Brighton or Tun- bridge Wells. ROUTE 3. LONDON TO CRYSTAL PALACE. I. London and Brighton Lines. By Loioer Norioood and Gipsy-hill. For the route from London-bridge as far as Sydenham, see Rte. 1. For that from Victoria as far as Balham, see Rte. 2. The next sta- tion is at Streatham-hill (6J miles), shortly after which the line gives off a short branch on N. to the Tulse- hill Stat, of the Epsom and Horsham Rly. (Rte. 6). H m. West Norwood Stat. The large and handsome red-brick Jaco- bean building adjoining, evidently a reminiscence of Charlton House, is the Jews' Hospital, for the main- tenance of the aged poor, and the industrial training of friendless children : it was erected in 1862 at a cost of nearly 25,0007. A little further on is the South Metropolitan or Noricood Cemetery, covering about 40 acres. Notice the remark- able monument of John W. Gilbart, the " father of joint-stock banking," d. 1863 ; and the simple monolith to John Britton, the antiquary, d. 1857. Norwood is now so com- pletely built over as to be nothing but a London suburb. 8 m. Gipsy-hill Stat., a part of Upper Norwood. 8f m. Crystal Palace Stat. See p. 17. II. Jjondon Chatham and Dover Lines. Holhorn to Clapham and Brixton^ hy Camherwell-new-road and Herne-hiU. These also are two in number — (a) from the City : (h) from Victoria. (a.) City. From the terminus on the Holborn Viaduct (which by the Surrey. Houte 3. — Sorough-road — Claphain. 31 Metropolitan Rly. is in connection with the Northern and Eastern lines), we reach in 2 min. the Lud- gate-hill Stat. Thence the line is carried across the Thames by a stately iron bridge of lattice girders, supported on piers formed by groups of iron cylinders set on stone bases. The bridge is of 5 spans, the centre 202 ft. 6 in., the intermediate 192 ft. 3 in., and the side or shore spans 170 ft. 9 in. each. From Blackfriars where also there is a spacious and handsome stat., used for goods only now, the line is carried through Southwark on 600 brick arches of 30 ft. span. f m. Borough-road Stat., near the Normal School of the British and Foreign School Society. IJ m. Elephant and Castle Stat., a few yards E. of the tavern once well known to every traveller as the halting place for stage-coaches to or from Kent and Sussex: now the house of call for South-London omnibuses. 8oon after leaving the stat., is seen on the rt. the great Metropolitan Tabernacle (Mr. S23ur- geon's). 2 m. Walworth-road Stat. On 1. is Emmanuel Church, a so-called Norm, building, erected in 1841. Near it on 1. is the site of Bowyer House, the once splendid seat of the Bowyer family. Evelyn mentions in his Diary a visit made, Sept. 1, 1657, to Sir Edmund Bowyer, "at his melancholy seat at Camberwell," and notes the " very pretty grove of oaks and hedges of yew in his garden, and a handsome row of tall elms before his court." Though diminished in size, and shorn of much of its splendour, the house, with its rich interior carvings, re- mained till 1862, when it was pulled down and the materials sold. The site is now covered with streets of mean houses. 2f m." Camberwell-new-^oad Stat. The lofty spire on 1. is that of St. Giles, Camberwell, a spacious cruci- form building, completed, at a cost of 15,000Z., in 1844, on the site of the old church, destroyed by fire, Feb. 7, 1841, and was one of the first churches built by the late Sir Gilbert Scott. On Camberwell Green, near the stat., was held every August the notorious Camberwell fair ; but ^ he fair was suppressed in 1857, and the green laid out as a public garden. 4J m. Herne-hill Junction Stat., on the main L. 0. and D. line. Here is a handsome Gothic church (St. Paul), originally built in 1844, but, having been seriously damaged by fire, remodelled by Mr. Street in 1859. (?>.) Victoria. The line crosses the Thames by the same bridge as the London and Brighton, and runs side by side with the South London (Kte. 2), until near Brixton, when it begins to diverge southward. 2J m. Clapham Stat. (a distinct station from Clapham Junction). Clapham, though known as Cloppe- ham in the time of King Alfred, is usually taken to be the ham or home of Osgod Clapa, the Danish jarl, at the marriage-feast of whose daughter Gytha, Hardicanute fell senseless in a fit of intoxication, and died soon after. It formed a part of the possessions of Merton Abbey, and has in modern times gained a celebrity as the chosen residence of William Wilberforce, Granville Sharp, Henry Thornton, and other men of marked philanthropic and religious character. It has a pop. of 36,378, and seven churches, but only one is entitled to attention as an architectural work. This is St Saviour s, in Yictoria-road, on the N. side of the Common, a cruciform 82 Boute o. — London to Crystal Palace. Sect. I. building, with a central tower 120 ft. high, erected in 1864. The parish Church on the Common, built in 1775, is uninteresting, save that in it the Thorntons, Macaulays, and Wilberforces were wont to worship and Venn preached from its pulpit, and is quite dwarfed by its neigh- bours, a Koman Catholic Church on the S., and a Congregational Chapel on the E., each of which has a lofty spire, whilst the parish cliurch has only a miserable brick clock-turret, surmounted by a mean little cupola. Dr. Gillies, the historian of Greece, and John Jebb, Bishop of Limerick, are interred in it. An ugly brick structure, built 1815 on the site of a much older one, contains in N. transept the monument of Sir Eichard Atkyns of the Manor, of his wife and 3 children, 2 recumbent effigies, and 3 statues by a good sculptor temp. James II., X)0ssibly by Gibbons. They had been re- moved into a vault in 1815, and all record of them lost until 1885. In St. PauVs Chapel, a brick building erected in 1814, on the site of the old parish church, near the Wands- worth-road, is a monument by Chanfrey for John Wilson, Esq., d. 1835, with a marble bust of William Hewer, Treasurer of Tan- gier, temp. Chas. II. Clapliam Common is a tract of about 200 acres, well laid out and planted between its patches of native furze. Some large ponds serve to drain it, the whole having been a nearly impassable marsh until about 1700.' It is surrounded by villas of all descriptions, and the neighbour- ing roads and lanes are everywhere bordered with them. In the house called Broomwood, on the W. side of the Common, Wm. Wilberforce resided : here Bishop Wilberforce was born. In the house above an arcln7ay in Church Buildings, Nos. 3 and 4, once Mr. Greaves's school. Lord Macaulay began his education, 1807-12. Long after him, Tom Hood was also a pupil at this school. 31 m. Brixton Stat., a district of Lambeth, once a pleasant neighbour- hood, but now almost entirely built over. It also has a number of churches and chapels of every style of architecture, the most noticeable one being Christ Church, built in 1841 (by Mr. J. W. Wild), and a picturesque example of Lombardic brick architecture. The City of London Freemen s Orphan School, Shepherd's-lane, with some other benevolent institutions, are in the parish. The old coimty gaol on Brixton- liill, formerly notorious for its treadmill, is now a convict prison. At Brixton the line divides, one branch running southward to the junction at Herne-hill {ante), and the other taking a circuitous course by Denmark-hill, Peckham Rye, Honor Oak and Lordship-lane to the High Level Stat, of the Crystal Palace; localities calling for no special re- mark beyond the fact of the won- derful growth of building in what were green fields only a very few years ago. The first stat. beyond Herne-hill Junction is Dulwich (5 m.) (see Rte. G) ; the next is Sydenham-hill (5f m.) for the Crystal Palace. Along tunnel under that building conducts the line to Penge (7i m.) and so into Kent. Surrey. Boiite 4. — London to Bedliill and Horley. 33 EOUTE 4. LONDON TO REDHILL AND HOR- LEY, BY MERSTHAM [CATERHAM, CHELSHAM, CHIPSTEAD; NUT- FIELD, BLETCHINGLEY,GODSTONE, CROWHURST, LINGFIELD; CHARL- WOOD; BURSTOW]. London and Brighton Railway. 25J m. For tlie country from London to Croydon see Rte. 1. From Croy- don to Redhill, the South Eastern uses the same line as the Brighton, but has a stat. of its own at Merst- ham, and joint stats, at the Caterham and Redhill Junctions. About 1 m. after leaving the E. Croydon stat., notice on 1. a portion of the abandoned " Surrey and Sussex" line. At 2 m. the clialk, forming the line of the N. Downs, begins to be at once recognised by its gently swelling hills and open fields. It is here about 9 m. in width. ISJ m. Caterham Junction Stat. Shortly before reaching the stat., remark 1., near some fine old scat- tered oak trees, Furley Bury (J. H. Smith, Esq.), long the residence of John Home Tooke, who named from it his well-known ' Diversions of Purley ' (first published in 1786). Purley at one time belonged to the regicide Serjeant Bradshaw. At the stat. the pedestrian will do well to quit the line for a while, in order to visit some of the pleasantly placed villages that lie hid among the hills on either side {post). He can rejoin the rly. at Merstham (18i m.), or at Redhill (20^ m.), but the latter is to be preferred, as having a very frequejit service of trains. [From this junction, a Branch [Surrey, &c.'] line, belonging to the Soutli Eastern Company, runs up a picturesque valley to Caterham (4| m. S.E.). At 1 m. is Kenley Stat., a collection of modern villas, with a pretty small church. On 1. rises the height of Riddlesdown, a favourite resort of holiday-makers from London, for whose accommodation there is a neat In7i (Rose and Crown). At 2 J m. is Warlingham Stat., near which is Sherhrooke (Lord Sher- brooke) and Warlingham village, f m. (see Rte. 2). At 4J m. Cater- ham Stat.. in a valley which closely adjoins the East Grinstead road, and around which a complete town of handsome residences has sprung up of late years. There is a good Bailivay Hotel, gas and waterworks, and well-kept winding roads give easy access to Caterham Park, Hare- stone Park, and other spots occupied by excellent mansions, as well as to the original village on the hill-top. Here is the old church, a very plain structure, now disused, and exactly opposite, a new church, equally deficient in interest. 1 m. W., on a fine open space, stands the Metropolitan Imbecile Asylum, a very large pile of building, of white brick, with some slight dressing of red, and a tower-like chimney shaft, but not of the highly ornamented character so often seen in similar edifices. About 1900 unfortunates find a refuge here, and the place is open to the visits of their friends every Monday, but admission is denied to mere sightseers. The country around Caterham, especially E. and S., is well fitted for a day's ramble. It is exceedingly pleasant, and, though but thinly peopled, full of interest. Bold hills overlook valleys, not too fertile, per- haps, but still, as in Aubrey's days, ornamented with "boscage," and " stored with wild thyme, marjoram, and other delicate herbs," rendering a stroll among them a positive pleasure, with which no churlish D 34 JRoute 4 —London to BedMll and Sorley, Sect. 1, " warning to trespassers " interferes. Botley-hill, near Woldingham, occu- pies the highest point (883 feet), but the camp placed on it by Aubrey and his copyists does not exist. There is, however, a large and well preserved camp, with a deep ditch and considerable earthworks, called Cardinal's Cap, on White-bill, mid- way between Caterham and Bletch- ingley. Near it is White-Mil House (J. Long, Esq.), with a belvedere, easily mistaken for a church tower. A vicinal way, known as Stane- street, passes at the foot of the hill, and here traces of a Roman villa were found in 1813. War Coppice adjoining suggests the site of some battle, but is probably a mere con- traction of Warwick, the neighbour- ing land being known as Warwick Wold. Hence it is less than 3 miles to either Bletchingley or Gods tone, whence the tourist may return to Caterham; a round of about 10 m. altogether, with charming scenery on every side.] [On quitting the Caterham Junc- tion, the tourist will notice on Russell-hill, a short distance W., a large fanciful red-brick building. This is the Warehousemen's and Clerks' Orphan Schools, where about 200 boys and girls are edu- cated. J m. S., but on the opposite side of the rly., is the lieedham Asylum for Fatherless Children, a spacious Italian edifice, erected in 1858 for 300 children. From its size and position the building makes a good appearance. The institution is named Reedham after its founder, the late Dr. A. Reed. Alpiost adjoining is a disused stat. called Stoafs Nest, from which a pretty lane leads 1 m. S.E. to Coulsdon Church, partly E.E., but chiefly Dec, a plain rough-cast edifice. Of the exterior the most noticeable feature is the heavy tower, with its massive buttresses and Perp. porch ; inside is a curious monument, with acrostic verses to one Grace Rowed, d. 1635. Coulsdon Court (Edmund Byron, Esq.), has fine grounds, extending from the church to the trim little village green. On Farthing Down, between the cli. and the rly., are several barrows and some slight traces of earthworks. The barrows were opened in 1871, and yielded a sword, a spear, knives, and gold and silver ornaments, which are described in Surrey Arch. Coll., vol. vi. From Coulsdon there is a charm- ing w^alk of about 2 m. S., by Couls- don Common (leaving the windmills on the 1.), through the Rookery into a deep bottom, and then up a steep hill to Chaldon. The large build- ing r. is the County Pauper Limatic Asylum, opened in 1871, capable of holding 1124 patients. Chaldon Church is a plain rural building, of which some portion is E.E., but most part Perp. ; the tower and spire are modern, but the bell in the tower is reputed as being the oldest in Surrey. The restoration of the church, in 1870, led to the discovery of one of the earliest and most important wall paintings that exist in this country. It covers the entire space of the W. wall, 17 feet 2 in. in length by 11 feet 2 in. in height. The subject, "the ladder of human salvation," is one that has never before been discovered in England, and may therefore bear a somewhat detailed notice. The picture is in four compartments, divided lengthwise by the ladder. In the top right-hand compart- ment is a representation of Christ bearing a cross and banner, and advancing against the prostrate form of Satan ; in the upper part is an angel flying with a scroll, and against the ladder another angel is standing, assisting souls in their ascent ; the flames in the lower l^art represent Purgatory, the jaw^ of the monster. Hell. In the top left- Monte 4. — Merstiiam. hand compartment is a figure of St. ] Michael weighing souls in the scales, whilst a demon with cloven feet, dragging at his back a number of souls, is touching one scale ; an | angel is standing near the ladder, ! and one above is flying, bearing a ^ soul in his arms. The right-hand lower compart- | ment has the Tree of Life. Midway ! between it and the ladder is a figure seated amid flames, repre- senting Usury ; over his head is the Bridge of Spikes borne by two demons, upon which are five figures. The left-hand lower com- partment represents the torments of hell. The date assigned to the painting is the latter part of the 12th cen- tury ; it is painted in tempera, the prevailing colours being red and yellow-ochre, but has faded since its exposure to the air.* The church stands in a secluded and picturesque nook, and all around are tempting rambles, but more par- ticularly eastward, in the direction of the valley traversed by the Cater- ham Ely. Caterham Stat, is 2 m. E.] Keturning to the W. side of the line, we have Woodmansterne 2 m., and Banstead, best visited from the Epsom side of the Downs, and described in Kte. 6. At 4 m. from the junction, but somewhat ofl" the road on W., is Chiiostead, a vilbge where the Church will repay examination. It is placed i on high ground, commanding wide ' views. The nave is Norm., the chancel E.E., as is the low central toAver, and the whole has been well restored. On the N. wall of the nave is a white marble tablet, with inscripti(m for Sir Edward Banks (d. 1835), the builder of "three of the noblest bridges in the world, those of Waterloo, Southwark, and * The archcTologist will find it fully described in Surrey Arch, Coll., vol. v., p. 275. London ; " and the architect of the naval works at Sheerness Dockyard. The 3 bridges are indicated in the centre of the tablet, and on the arch of one rests a bust of Sir Edward, who, born in the humblest rank of life at Sheerness, was " the founder of his own fortune." There is a brass for Katherine Koper, 1614 ; and inside the altar-rails is the grave-slab of Alice Hooker, d. 1649, eldest daughter of the "judicious author of the ' Ecclesiastical Polity.' There is much pleasant scenery in the neighbourhood of Ohipstead, especially about Shabden Park (J. Cattley, Esq.), and the lanes beyond, towards Gatton; the trees (beech and oak) are especially fine. It is also a most agreeable walk of 2J m. over the common called Chip- stead Kougliet to the picturesque hill of firestone on which the church of Merstharn is placed ; at the foot of the hill is the rly. stat. Merstharn was given by Aihelstan, a son of Ethelred 11. , to the monks of Canterbury, and it is recorded as having a church at the Domesday Survey. The oldest part, however, of the present edifice is at least a century later. The " Pilgrims' Koad," a very ancient line of way from Southampton toward Canter- bury, passed through this parish, but is now not easily traceable; it is better seen on the crest of the downs above Betchworth and Beigate. (See p. 49.) The narrow terrace of firestone, which ranges along the foot of the S. escarpment of the N. Downs, is well developed at Merstharn, and quarries of it have been worked here from a very early period. It is a " greyish green arenaceous limestone," form- ing the lowermost beds of a grey calcareous marl, upon which the white clialk rests. Merstham Church (itself built of it) stands on a hillock of this rock. It is soft when first quarried ; but acquires hardness by exposure. Henry VII. 's chapel at D 2 36 Boute 4. — London to Bedhill and Horley. Sect. 1. Westminster and some parts of Windsor Castle are built of this firestone, of which the more ancient quarries were situated near Keigate, in Gatton Park, and on Buckland Green. They were formerly con- sidered of so great importance as to be retained in the hands of the crown. The stone, which resists heat in a remarkable manner, is now used principally for hearths and furnaces. The Mersthara grey-stone is extensively used for converting into lime. One of the earliest railways in the S. of England was completed in 1805, for the conveyance of stone and chalk from Merstham to Wands- worth on the Thames. It was worked by horses, but proved un- profitable, and was eventually bought up by the Brighton Kailway Com- pany. Merstham Church, dedicated io S. Catherine, stands on high ground among fine old trees, a short dis- tance N. of the village, and close adjoining to the grounds o^. Merstham House (Lord Hylton). It has a square tower and spire at the W. end, and contaius portions from E.E. to Perp. Tiie acanthns leaf (pos- sibly of French design) occurs among the ornaments of the chancel arch. Kemark also the curious double piscina, of Dec. character ; and the square Norm, font of Sussex marble, of a design very common throughout Surrey and Sussex. The W. door (early Dec.) is very graceful, but the characteristic dog-tooth mould- ing lias been almost destroyed by injudicious scraping, if not re- cutting, and the lancet windows of the tower, though original, have from the same cause a painfully modern appearance. The church indeed suffered severely from ill- directed efforts in 1861, when, in removing coats of whitewash, mural paintings supposed to represent the death of Becket were destroyed, and good Perp. screenwork was cast out as old material (^Surrey Arch. Coll., vol. iii.). The E. window is Perp., of 5 lights, of awkward construction and late date. The S. porch is also Perp. The aisle roofs have been raised, so that the clerestory windows are now within the church. Of the monuments, the most ancient is the mutilated stone effigy of a civilian (c. 1420), name unknown; it was found several years since beneath the pavement, and is now placed in the S. chancel. There is also an altar-tomb, with brass, for John E linebri gge (or Elmbrigge), his 2 wives and 7 daughters (4 sons lost), 1473 ; and brasses for John Ballard and wife (1463), John Newdegate (1498), Thomas Elinebrigge (1507), and for Peter and Kichard Best, children (1585, 1587). At the foot of the knoll on which the church stands is a pool, from which in wet seasons a spring breaks out (like the Kentish " nailbournes " and the Hampshire " lavants "), and finds its way to the river Mole. It is within the grounds of Merstham House, and is crossed by a foot- bridge which gives access to the church.] If the railway should be preferred, the tourist will first pass along the hollow, called Smitham Bottom, and then through vast chalk cuttings, the sides, in one place 180 ft. deep, appearing to the eye almost per- pendicular, and though made 40 years ago, still little more than bare walls. At 4 m. from the junction we pass under a lofty bridge and plunge into a Tunnel, 1820 yards long, piercing the ridge of the N. Downs, which divide the l.ondon basin from the Wealds of Kent and Sussex, and stretch from Hampshire to the extreme S.E. of Kent ; soon after we reach at 18} m. Merstham Stat. Very soon Gatton Park is seen, with the Surrey. Boiite 4. — Philanthropic Society'' s Farm School, 37 ch. spire rising behind the mansion, on r. (Rto. 5), whilst on 1. is the open land called Niitfield Marsh, with the liills about Godstone and Westerham, on the Kentish border, in. the background. 20J m. Redhill Junction Stat. Here the main line of the South- Eastern goes off eastward, to Ash- ford, Dover, &c., and its branch, W. to Reigate, Dorking, Guildford, &c. (Rte. 5). The Brighton runs S. to Three Bridges, where it gives off branches E. and W. to Horsham, Tunbridge Wells, &c., for which see Handbook for Kent and Sussex. On the W. of the stat., and ex- tending as far as the walls of Gatton Park, is Wavwich Toim, a modern creation on land which belonged to the late Countess of AYarwick. The town of Redhill (pop. 12,000) is rapidly extending itself in the direction of Reigate, to which it is I'oined by an almost unbroken line of villas and small houses. There are two fair Inns^ Warwick and Laker's. Near the stat. is the Corn Exchange and Assembly Rooms, a rather showy Elizabethan building, constructed of the rough local stone, with Bath-stone dressings. Close to the stat. is the St. Anne's Asylum for children, a large red-brick build- ing, built in 1884, at a cost of £35,000, where 400 children of poor parents are clothed and educated. Less than 1 m. E. of the Redhill Junction, on the Nutfield road, is the Farm ScJiool of the Philan- thropic Society, for the reformation of criminal boys. It is the parent of the numerous Reformatories which, since its establishment here in 1849, have been founded in different parts of the kingdom. The farm, 150 acres in extent, is always open to visitors, and there are few institutions which will be found to awaken a deeper interest. The average number of boys in the school is 300, distributed in 5 " houses." The average cost per boy is about 211. Of those dis- charged a considerable proportion are sent by their own wish as farm- servants to different colonies. The boys received here are either " the children, under 15, of convicted felons, or children who have them- selves been guilty of criminal prac- tices ; and of late years admissions to the scliool have been principally confined to boys of the last-men- tioned class." The whole of the work on the farm is done by the boys. Brick-making, o;as-making, carpentry, smith's work, bricklaying, tailoring, and shoemaking, are also taught, and with excellent results. On the whole, though reformation is of course not effected in every case, and not without much labour and watchfulness in any, the success of the Redhill school has been very great. One of the usual dangers of similar institutions — ;iealousy and dislike on the part of the neighbour- ing farmers and labourers — seems in this case to have been happily avoided, by the tact of the managers and staff. A considerable portion of the cost of the care, maintenance, &c., of the boys committed under the Reformatories Act is borne by the Treasury; the parents are also bound to supply a certain sum weekly towards their maintenance ; but their contributions are not to be relied on, and " the expenses of the industrial training and ultimate dis- posal of the inmates" are so con- siderable th;it the assistance of the philanthropic is largely required, and there are not many purposes to which aid. can perhaps be more beneficially given. Excursions. (1.) From Redhill a very pleasant Excursion may be made, through Nidfield, Bletchingley, and Godstone^ to Limpsfield, returning by rail from the Godstone stat., or the Oxted 38 Route 4. — London to Bedliill and Horley. Sect. I. stat. (Rte. 2). The road, for nearly ! the whole distance, follows the crest of the greensand, running parallel i with the chalk downs, N., and the views about Bletchingley are fine. On the 1. we see the large build- ings of St. Anne's Asylum, and after passing Vatteson Court (T. Nick alls, Esq.), at 2 m., reach the very neat and pleasant-looking vil- lage of Nutfield, which contains many new houses, built of the local sandstone, and a handsome school- house of recent erection. The cli. (SS. Peter and Paul) is picturesquely placed on high ground. It has a low square embattled tower of Perp. date, surmounted by a shingled spire; the N. aisle of the nave is also Perp., but the rest of the build- ing is early Dec. Some fragments of stained glass remain in the chancel, as also a portion of the rood screen, and an aumbry. In the chancel also, under a Dec. canopy, is a slab with an inscription nearly obliterated, which ran as follows : " Sire Thomas de Rolclham gist ici, Dcu de sa alme eyt merci." There is a somewliat remarkable Brass^ to the memory, apparently, of a priest who had abandoned the clerical profession ; he is represented with- out the ton>ure, is in a layman's costume, and with a female by his side, yet the inscription describes him as William Graifton, " quondam clericus hujus ecclesie ; " c. 1465. The epitaph of Thomas Steer, 1769 (on the S. wall of the church by the porch), is a warning to bachelors : " He Liv'd alone, He Lyes alone, To Dust He's gone, both Flesh and Bone." The farmhouse of Kentwaynes, once the residence of the Cholmeley family, with its Elizabethan porch bearing the letters R.C. D.C. from its situation is worth a visit. Nut- field Priori) (Mrs. Fielden). Nutfield is famous for its beds of fuller's earth, which has been dug here for centuries. They — ! "Are situated near the top of the lowermost division of the Shanklin ! sand, and occupy a line on the N. side of a ridge that extends from the E. of Nutfield, nearly to Redstone-hill, on the W. of Copyhold farm. . . . The fuller's earth is of two colours ; dark slate or blue, and yellowish brown. The blue alone is used by manufac- turers of fine cloth, and is sent chiefly to Yorkshire. The yellow is employed in the manufacture of all kinds of coarse woollen goo:]s, and is sent in great quantities into the N. of Eng- land, Scotland, and Wales. Norwich also receives a supply for its stuff manufactories." — Mantell. From the pits in this district, which all belong to Messrs. Cawley and Hedley, about 6000 tons are exported annually. Sulphate of barytes is also found throughout the beds in detached nodular masses, sometimes 140 lbs. in weight. It is semi-diai)hanous and crystallized, occasionally affording specimens of great beauty. There are also ex- tensive hearth-stone quarties in the parish. In the sandstone beds here, among other organic remains, occur a large species of ammonite, and a nautilus {N. undulaius). Little more than 1 m. E. of Nuf- field is Bletchingley, a small town of 1900 inhab., but which, like several other places in Surrey, retains a tradition of former importance. It is said that it once possessed 7 cl lurches; and that Earl Godwin, after the sea had converted his finest Kentish manors into the Goodwin sands, retired to this place, where he established himself in great state. There is no proof, however, that it ever belonged to him, and the only real evidence of its former conse- quence is to be found in the slight remains of the foundations of a castle, in the grounds of Castle-hill (James Norris, Esq.), overlooking Holmesdale and tlie Weald ; the line of the inner and outer moat can be distinctly traced- The place was granted by the Conqueror to the Surrey. Boute 4. — BletcMngley, 39 Clares, lords of Tunbridge, and went from them to the Staffords ; on the fall of the latter house it passed through various hands, and was in the time of Charles II. purchased by Sir Robert Clayton, a London alder- man, to whose family it still belongs. In 12G3 the castle, being hc4d for the barons by Gilbert do Clare, earl of Gloucester, was captured by the royal forces, and almost demolished. It was soon rebuilt, but seems never to have been of any great impor- tance, and the time when it fell into utter ruin is unknown. Bletchingley was once a Parlia- mentary borough, but was disfran- chised by the first Reform Act. The number of electors had then dwindled down to 10 or 12 ; its last two members were the late Viscount Palmerston and Mr. T. Hyde Vil- liers. Pendhill or Fendell (Miss Kenrick), N. of the village, is said to have been built in 1636 from designs by Inigo Jones ; observe the basement, the house being built on substantial arches. The fine old mansion of Fendell Court (Sir George Macleay) v;as built 1624. On the road called Brewster-street, at a short distance from the Rectory, is a fine halt-timbered farmhouse, formerly the gatehouse of the old 15th-centy. manor-house, of which the f )undiitions may be traced in a meadow at the back. Ham Farm, in this parish, but to the S. of Nut- field, and best visited from that village, has 2 curious oak chimney- pieces, with the dates 1583 and 1592. The Church of Bletchingley (St. Mary) is a large and interesting building. It is chiefly Perp., but the chancel is E.E., and the lower portion of the tower Noi-man. The tower was once surmounted by a tim- ber spire (160 ft.), which was des- troyed by lightning (Nov. 17, 1606), and has not been replaced. In 1864 the church was partially restored, a new N. aisle added, and an E. win- dow by Watson. Other improvements were etiected in 1872, and several memorial windows inserted, but much still remains to be done. Above the porch is a jDarvise cham- ber, the entrance to which appears to have been by an external staircase. Between the two chancels is an altar-tomb without inscription, but known to be that of Sir Thomas Cawarden, d. 1559. The canopy has been removed. (Sir Thomas was " bowbender " to Henry VIII., and lord of the manor of Bletchingley; and on suspicion of his having favoured Wyatt's rebellion his ar- mour and " munition of war " were seized there by the sherifi", 1554.) In the S. chancel, and entirely block- ing up one of the windows, is a sur- prising monument erected during his lifetime by the first Sir Robert Clayton of Marden (the Ishban of Dryden), d. 1707, for his own com- memoration " (glorification ?), and that of his lady. Under a lofty canopy appears Sir Robert in his robes as Lord Mayor. At his feet are the words Non vultus instantis tyranni," alluding to his patriotism during the reign of James II. My Lady Clayton stands beside him, with the mol to " Quando ullam invenient parem ? On either side are cherubs, shedding marble tears. A curtain behind the figures displays an inscription which Sir Robert would no doubt have approved, though it is uncertain whether, like the statues, it w^as furnished by himself "It is hut just," it asserts, "that the memory of so good and so great a man shoidd be transmitted to after ages, since in all the private and public transactions of his life he has left so bright a pattern to imitate, but hardly to be outdone." Sir Robert was the founder of his family ; and seems to have been in truth a far "better and greater" man than his monument would lead us to suspect. The mathematical 40 Boute 4. — London to BedJdll and Horleij. Sect. I. school at Christ's Hospital was es- tablished by him. In the N. tran- sept is a Brass for Thomas Warde and wife, d. 1541 ; a small one in the chancel to an unmarried lady (c. 1470) has lost the inscription. A pleasant country road of 1 J m. leads from Bletchingley to Godstone. The village is built on the side of a large green, on which some very fine horse chestnuts may be noticed. (Inn: Clayton Arms.) A footpath beside the inn conducts you by the side of a large pond, well known to anglers, but now completely choked with weeds, to the church. The Church has some E.E. portions, and was restored under the direction of the late Sir Gilbert Scott (1871), who added a S. chancel aisle, in the Dec. style. The Norm, doorway pre- serves one stone of the original, found during the restoration ; and the timber porch recalls that at Wis ton Green, Sussex. The spire has been raised several feet ; and the interior of the tower converted into a mortuary chapel, which con- tains the recumbent effigy of the wife of Mr. Macleay, of Pendell Court. In the N. chancel is a very iine altar- tomb of black and white marble, with effigies of Sir John Evelyn and his wife Thomasin, whom he " espoused " in 1618. There is no date of death. The figures are unusually fine and de- serve attention. A wreath of droop- ing flowers sculptured by Bacon on a tablet to the memory of Sarah Smith, d. 1794, should also be noticed. Notice outside the W. door some remains of Norm. work. From the churchyard is a striking view of the combe and heathy hill- side, S. ; and a picturesque lane, overhung with ivy below the church, will afford material to the sketcher. Near the church arc some pic- turesque Almshouses, erected by the late Sir G. G. Scott, at the cost of Mrs. Hunt, of Wonham House, in memory of her daughter. Godstone (a corruption of Gates- den, and formerly called Walhamp- stead) has many indications of an- tiquity. On the green in the way to Bletchingley are vestiges of 2 small tumuli, and there are 2 more in the fields adjoining N. On Castle- hill, S.E. of Godstone Church, are the remains of a fortification, and a well called '* Diana," though at what time the nymph of the grot " re- ceived so classic a name does not appear. An ancient road, called Koman, passing from Sussex towards Croydon, and probably joining the vicinal way under White-hill (ante), ran through the village. Its course is marked by such names as Stret- ton and Stane-street. It seems to have passed over the summit of Tilburstow-hill. From this point the tourist may make his way either to the Godstone Stat, of the S. E. R. (2 m. S. of the village) in order to return to Redhill, or to the Oxted Stat, along Rte. 2. The road to Godstone Stat, winds round the base of Tilburstoiv-liill, an elevation of the Shanklin sand, which has considerable interest for the geologist. On the N. side of the hill towards Godstone, the strata rise uniformly about 10° ; on the S. they terminate abruptly, and pre- sent a steep escarpment towards the Weald. This "fault" or disloca- tion is well exposed a few hundred yards below the summit of the hill. The beds thus elevated from a total thickness of 6i) or 70 ft., and consist of sand and sandstone, ranging in colour from pale yellow to red, and interspersed with ciiert and iron- stone. Cinerary urns have been found in the stone pits. Part of the hill is unenclosed, and the views from it are fine and extensive. At its S. foot, near the station, is a chalybeate spring, which at one time was in considerable repute. Legham (now a farmhouse) S. of the God- stone Stat., formerly a seat of the St. Surrey. Boute 4. — Tandridge — Rolmesdale, 41 Johns, has the remains of an exten- sive moat. In the neiojhbourhood of Godstone are Leigh Place (Mrs. Turner), once a seat of the Evelyns ; and Roolcsnest (F. M. Turner, Esq.). The town pond and others in the neighbour- hood (Turners pond, Rose's pond, &c.), are noted " fishing lakes," and abound in pike, carp, tench, and perch. Should the tourist elect to take the train at Oxted Stat, he will con- tinue his way past Leigh Place to Tandridge (li m. E. of Godstone), where was a priory of Augustinian canons, founded temp. Rich. I. by Eudes de Dammar tin. It stood at the foot of the chalk hills, but no remains exist. The name is per- petuated in Tandridge Priory^ a modern house at the foot of the hill; the tiles and other architec- tural remains have been from time to time dug up in the garden. Tandridge Court (Earl of Cotten- ham) occupies the site of a farm- house of that name. The little Church (restored 1851), which stands high, and looks across to the Car- dinal's Cap camp on the opposite hill is partly E.E. A N". transept added in 1836 has been pulled down, and a N. aisle (Dec.) and organ- chamber, erected by Scott, 1874. Notice the massive oak framework visible on the inside, which carries the tower and spire. The same arrangement occurs at Home (post) nnd Newdigate (Rte. 6). The large W. window (late Dec.) is filled with painted glass, a memorial to the Lord Chancellor Cottenham, d. 1851. W. of the church is a beautiful alabaster monument, erected by the late Sir G. G. Scott, to his wife, who died 1872. At the early spring the ch.-yd. is strewed thick with violets and primroses. At the W. end is a gigantic yew-tree, probably one of the largest in England ; the trunk is hollow, but the foliage is most flourishing ; the spread of the branches is 27 yards in dia- meter. About IJ m. further on is Oxted, a straggling village with a couple of inns and a large brewery, J m. beyond which and close to the station is the Church (St. Mary) restored 1877, and containing some fragments of painted glass. Part of the tower is E.E., the chancel Dec, the porch Perp. Brasses : John Ynge, rector, 1428 : Joan Haselden, 1480 ; and 3 for mem- bers of the Hoskins family (1611, 1620), one a child, with a curious inscription. On the N. wall of the chancel is the monument, with efiigy, of John Aldersey, " haber- dasher and merchant venturer," d. 1616. In the chancel are numerous monuments to members of the Hos- kins family, now represented by 0. Hoskins Master, Esq., of Barrow Green. About Oxted and Tand- ridge are several hop-o:ardens. jBar- row Green (0. Hoskins Master, Esq.) is a Jacobean mansion, altered temp. Geo. I. It has its name from a large conical hill on S., which was imag- ined to be a barrow ; but excava- tions made in 1870 proved it to be a natural elevation. (2.) From Redhill the tourist may proceed, by the S. Eastern Railway, as far as the Godstone station, on the border of Surrey, — whence, if pre- ferred, interesting excursions may be made N. to several of the places just noticed. The country S. of the line is comparatively level, but con- tains several objects of antiquarian interest, as Crowhurst, Sterborough Castle and Lingfield. In proceeding to the stat. the long, rich valley of Holmesdale, found invincible, says tradition, alike by Dane and by Norman — *' The vale of Holmesdale, Never won ne never shall," — is passed through. It lies between the chalk and the greensand; ^nd 42 Boute 4. — London to BedJiill and Horleij, Sect. I. extends, though with somewhat un- certain boundaries, from Reigate to Tunbridge and the neighbourhood of Sevenoaks. Approaching God- stone there is a good view of the range of hills stretching from Seven- oaks to Westerham. In piercing the clay for the Bletcli- ingley Tunnel (J m. in length), a stem with leaves of Clathraria, and many bones of a young Iguanodon, were discovered. Soon after passing this tunnel we reach, 28 J m. from London, the Godstone Stat.; in the midst of oaken coppices, but serving as an outlet for many neighbouring villages. The village of Godstone is 2 m. N. Crowhurst (the name indicates the thick woods with which all this dis- trict, on the deep clay, was anciently covered), a very small village, lies 2 m. E. of the Godstone Stat. The little Church (St. George) is well situated on high ground, and con- tains portions ranging from E.E. to Perp. An entry in the parish register dated 1652, states that it had " lien in heaps a long time," and was then "made plain and re- paired." The font is very rude, probably coeval with the church. The early Doc. windows on the N. were inserted when tlie church was repaired in 1852, The present tim- ber roof is of the same date. There are some good fragments of stained glass, chiefly in the E. window. Brasses on altar-tombs of Purbeck marble : John Gaynesford, sen., 1450 (good, and in good preservation) ; and John Gaynesford, 1460 (very similar to the first, but smaller). Within the altar rails is a cast-iron grave-slab, with a very rude figure in a shroud (comp. a similar figure at Leigh, near Tunbridge, Hand- hoohfor Kent),small kneeling figures of two sons on one side, and two daughters on the other, and an in- scription, some of the letters of which -are reversed, for "Ane Forstr," daughter and heir to Thomas Gaynes- ford, Esq., d. 1591. Many repetitions of this curious slab exist in Surrey and Sussex. In the kitchen of the farmhouse N. of the church it is used as the cast-iron back for a chimney, and it occurs also at Bay- nards, in Ewliurst (Rte. 12). The descendants of Mrs. Anne Forster seem to have distributed it by way of publishing her claim to be the heiress of the Gaynesfords. The hollow Ye MJ-^ree in the church- yard, 32 ft. 9 in. in girth at the height of 5 ft. from the ground, should be noticed. A fair or " wake " used to be held under the boughs of this yew on Palm Sunday, but was put an end to about 1850. The tree is the largest in the county ; and in point of antiquity may probably contend with its venerable brother at Crowhurst in Sussex, which ac- cording to DecandoUe is 1200 years old. It was barbarously hollowed out about 1820, a table fixed in the centre, and a bench giving sitting room for 12 or 14 persons placed round it. A cannon-ball was then found in the centre of the tree, which is preserved at the Church Farm adjoining. Close to the church are two farm- houses which deserve notice. That S.E. still called the Mansion-house, formerly the residence of the Angell family(whohave several monuments in the church), has been a mansion of considerable size, and may date from the reign of Henry VIII., but none of the large staterooms are left. The great kitchen fire-place, with its smoke-jack and capacious chimney- corners, remains. Kemark the enor- mous stack of chimneys ; also the yew porch, and trees cut into the shapes of peacocks, &c. It is here that the key of the church is kept. The tourist may proceed about 1 m. S. to Crowhurst Flace, now a farmhouse, but once the stately nifinsion of the Gaynesfords, who, although they may have been resir Surrey. Monte 4. — Earlsioood — Horley, 43 dent here from a much earlier period, only became lords of the manor in 1 337, and continued here until the commencement of the 18th centy. The liouse, wliich is temp. Hen. VII., or possibly somewhat earlier, is partly timbered in panels, and partly of brick. The roof is of Hoi sham stone. Much of the sur- rounding wall remains, and the moat is still entire. The great hall has been floored over about halfway up though open to the roof when Aubrey wrote (circ. 1700) ; but the original roof, of good design, remains. The cornice and ceiling of the " large parlour'' should be especially re- marked. For the cornice, a Gothic G, alternating with the double -fluked grapnels (the badge) of the Gaynes- fords, in blue and gold, is laid on a crimson grouad. The ceiling lias been coloured blue, and studded with gilt stars. Henry VIII., says tradition, frequently visited Crow- hurst Place in his way to Hever, 4 m. distant, and a yew hedge in the garden is absurdly said to have been planted by him. The farm is part of the estate of the trustees of the Marlborough charity, to whom the greater part of the parish belongs. Jm. S.W. is the Moat House, a fine old farmhouse, worth a visit, " and remarkable as standing in the three parishes of Tandridge, Crow- hurst, and Lingfield." — {Brayley). 1 m. W. of this is Blindley Heath, a hamlet of Godstone, witli a very pretty small church, built, in 1842, by the late Archdeacon Hoare. Through some long lanes, and crossing a stream that falls into the Medway, the tourist can make his way from here to Lingfield Station (Rte. 2), from whence he can either return to London, or proceed into Kent, via Edenbridge. Resuming the journey towards Horley, the rly. passes over Redhill Common, the high ground on E., which affords some interesting views, and reaches at 21 J m. Earlswood Stat. The noble building almost adjoining is the Earlsiuood Asylum for Idiots, built in 1856, at a cost, with the estate, of 39,000L to ac- commodate 400 inmates, but since considerably enlarged, the ordinary number being now upwards of 500, with nearly 150 attendants. It is an admirable institution, and the system adopted is found to be re- markably successful in raising alike the mental and physical condition of a class whose state had previously seemed hopeless; they are taught various trades, particularly shoe- making and printing, and many of them evince considerable aptitude for music. The asylum is open to visitors every Monday, and is well worth visiting. Shortly before reaching the next stat. (Horley) we have on E. Har- roivsley Green, which, accordino; to tradition, once belonged to King Harold (post). 25J m. Horley Stat. The tall, shingled church- spire of Horley is seen rising above the trees from all the high ground N. The Church itself, wliich is f m. W. of the station, deserves a visit. It has some good late Dec. windows ; and in the N. aisle a 15th-centv. recumbent effigy of a knight, with the arms of Sale- man, a family which anciently held land in the parii^h. There is a Brass, without date or inscription, but evi- dently of the 15th centy., of a lady with a collar of SS, to which an inscription has been added for Joan, wife of John Fenner, 1516. In the chancel is the brass of a civilian, c. 1520, but the inscription is lost. (Haines.) There are some remains of stained glass. It was thoroughly restored under Blomfield in 1882. Remark the fine old yews by the church ; the picturesque appear- ance of the church and its surround- ings from the Mole which skirts the churchyard ; and the quaint old half-timber hostelry (now unhappily 44 Boute 4o — London to Bedhill and Horley, Sect. I. daubed over with yellow wash) close against the church. Its sign, " The Six Bells," tells of the old number of the church bells ; there are now, however, eight — two having been added in 1840 — and tlie ringers rather pride themselves on the accomplishment of some long changes." Observe also, across the river, from the churchyard, the fine old brick mansion of Gatwick (J. K. Farlow, Esq.) ; but though so near to Horley church, Gatwick is in Charlwood parish. Charlivood Churchy 2 m. S.W., is of sufficient interest to repay a visit. It has a nave of two aisles and double chancel; a low square em- battled tower on the N. which opens into the chancel by a Norm. arch. ; and a curious E.E. porch, in which is a broken holy-water stoup. In the course of repairs a few years ago, some remarkable mural paint- ings representing the famous medise- val morality known as "Les trois Morts et les trois Vifs" were dis- covered in the S. aisle. These are preserved, and, though much faded, are, in their way, of exceeding interest. From the costumes, they appear to be of the first half of the 15th centy. The figures of tiie 3 skeletons are almost perfect. Partly covering one of them is a much larger figure of an archer ; and above are vestiges of a representa- tion of St. Nicholas (the patron saint of the church) restoring the 3 children to life. Farther E. are remnants of a hunting scene. Of the many Brasses of the Sanders family mentioned by Aubrey, only one remains — of Nicholas Saunder, d. 1553, and his wife Alys, who are figured kneeling on opposite sides of a desk, with their 4 sons and 6 daughters behind them. The S. aisle is divided from the chancel by a lofty wooden screen, periiaps of the time of Mary, in excellent pre- servation, with the monogram and arms of R. Sanders, and in the centre a crowned M, supported by angels. The entrance to the churchyard is under an arch formed by 2 clipped elms, making a picturesque frame to the church beyond. At Low field Heath, 2 m. S.E., is a small modern church, in the French 13th- centy. style, richly ornamented. Charlwood Parh (E. Habershon, Esq.), is midway between Charl- wood and Horley. The Sanders family (settled here as early as the reign of Edward II.) still occupy Hookwood Farm. Kimherham (or Tirriberham) Bridge, a little E. of Charlwood Park, is said to occupy the site of an older bridge called Kill-man bridge, from being the scene of a great slaughter of the Danes by the natives of these parts. On Harrowsley, on the E. side of the line, and less than 1 m. from the stat., is Home Castle, often called Thunderfield, which the late Mr. Kemble considered a reminiscence of the Saxon Thunor. The " castle " is said to have been built by Athel- stan, and to have been destroyed after a great battle, when the in- habitants were buried in the ruins. Nothing remains but a deep fosse or moat, in which some large pieces of black, charred timber were found many years since ; and human bones in great quantities have been dis- covered within the inclosure, which give an air of probability to the tradition. li m. S.E. is the little E.E. Church of Burstow, restored in 1884. On the S. side of the chancel are a sedilia and piscina, on the N. an aumbry ; by the pulpit is a stone seat under an arch. In the church- yard are two fine old yews. Flam- stead, the astronomer, was rector of Burstow from l(i84 till his death in 1719, but seldom resided there. 2 m. N.E. from Burstow is Small- field Place (now a farmhouse), which preserves much of the appearance of a Tudor manor-house, built by Ed» Surrey. Boute 5. — BedMU to DorMng aud Guildford, 45 ward Bysshe, " a great practitioner in the Court of Wards," and a lawyer sufficiently honest to admit that he had built his once stately house *'with woodcocks* heads" — the woodcocks being his foolish clients. The house contains a stair- case of carved oak ; and there is much oak panelling in the different apartments. He had much property in the neighbourhood, and his name is still preserved by Bysshe Court, a farmhouse, J m. E. of his manor- house. The Church of Home is but a short distance N.E. from Smallfield. It is a small, rude structure, of very uncertain date, but contains several monuments for the Hope family, once of Horne Court, in which their name is duly punned upon. From Horley the railway skirts Horley Common, almost till it passes out of the county. The next stat. is Three Bridges, 29J m., in Sussex. (See Handbook for Sussex.) KOUTE 5. REDHILL JUNCTION TO DORKING AND GUILDFORD, BY REIGATE BETCHWORTH, BOXHILL, CHIL- - WORTH, AND SHALFORD [LEITH HILL, ALBURY]. South Eastern Hailivay, Beading Branch. 22^ m. This route comprises much the most beautiful scenery in the county of Surrey ; and its whole course may safely be recommended to tourists in search of the picturesque. There are excellent inns at Reigate, Bur- ford Bridge, Dorking, and Guild- ford; of which those at Burford Bridge and at Dorking are the most ceDtral, and certainly not the worst. From' the Redhill Junction (Rte.4) the Reading branch of the South Eastern Railway passes W. to Guild- ford, where it joins the South Western line. The tourist may walk to the town of Reigate (2 m. W. from the Redhill Junction Station), across Redhill, with its wide-spreading prospect. The views are, however, far more striking in the immediate neighbourhood of the town itself; and if Reigate is selected as the place for a single day's excursion from London, it will be better to proceed at once by the branch line to 2 m. Reigate Stat. ; about ten minutes' walk from the principal Inn, the Wbite Hart, a well-known and excellent house. Other inns are the Crown,the Swan, and the Grapes. The town of Reigate stands at the head of the long valley of Holmesdale, in the hollow between the chalk and the Hastings sand, and consists principally of one long- street, at the E. end of which is the market-house. Its name {Bigegate, the *' ridge road ") either alludes to its position on a line of ancient road, which, according to tradition, here ascended the ridge northward to Gatton on its way towards London, or to its proximity to the ancient Pilgrims' Road (see jpost), which ex- tends along the ridge of the North Downs, E. and W. Its more ancient name was Churchefelle, or Church - field. That of Reigate does not occur until the 12th century. The town returned 2 M.P.'s from a very early period, but was reduced to 1 by the first Reform Act, and was disfranchised by the statute of 1867, on the ground of electoral corrup- tion. It was incorporated in 1863, and its population has rapidly in- creased, being but 9975 in i861, and now over 18,000. The chief point of interest in the town itself is the mound of the Castle, with its curious vaults. In 46 Boiite 5. — Bedhill to Dorhing and Gmtdford. Sect. 1^ the immediate neiglibomiiood are — the Church (about J m. E.), Reigate Fark, and the North Dozens ; from both which elevations probably the finest views within the like distance of London are commanded. Entering the town from the stat., the visitor passes through a tunnel 60 yards long under the Castle^ the approach to which is by a narrow lane opening 1. from the street. The manor of Keigate was granted soon after the Conquest to the Earls Warren, by whom the stronghold here was probably built on the site of an earlier fortress, since it is locally known as " Holm Castle," and is said to have played a part in ; the defence of the country against the Danes. The importance of its position at the head of Holmesdale, commanding the pass through the valley westward, and the road over the hills N., will be perceived in looking down upon it from the high ground N. and S. It was not strong enough, however, to resist Louis of France in 1216, when it was seized and held by his adherents during his march into Hampshire. From the Warrens Keigate Castle passed to the Fitzalans, and thence to the Howards. It was reported as in a " decayed state " early in the reign of James I., and was entirely de- molished during the Civil War, the Parliament fearing that "some use might be made of it to the endanger- ing of the peace of the kingdom." All that now remains is the oblong- mound of the keep, rising about 50 ft. above the general level of the town. The gateway, erected about 1777 by a Mr. Barnes, is not to be commended. The enclosed area, having been granted on a long lease to the corporation by Earl Somers, has been laid out as a recreation ground. In the centre of the turf which covers the mound is the entrance to some very large vaults or caverns — the excavation of which was no doubt suggested by tlie soft character of the dry sandstone in which tijey are worked. The de- scent is at first by steps, and then by a long gradual slope of about 240 ft. terminating in a chamber of some size, called, with whatever truth, the ^' dungeon : " 1. of this opens a sort of gallery, 150 ft. long, having a semicircular end, with a seat. The roof is pointed, and springs from a sort of cornice. Nearer the entrance steps is a third ajDartment, wider than the former, and of some size. They perhaps originally served as cellars and storehouses ; but an ancient tradition calls the principal gallery " the Barons' Cave," and asserts that numerous consultations were held in it by the party of the barons before the meeting with King John at Kunnymede. Unfortunately, however, for the tradition, the Earl Warren, to whom the castle then belonged, was of the royal party; besides this, the knowledge we possess of the barons' mo\''ements shows the extreme improbability of any conferences having occurred at this place. The castle vaults may be seen by application to the gardener, who will provide lights. There are similar excavations in ditferent parts of the town. The largest of these, which was entered from the cellars of the Ked Cross Inn, in the open space fronting which was the original market-place, fell in, May 9, 1860. The sandstone in which all these vaults are cut, although very soft when first worked^ hardens rapidly on exposure to the air. Its grain is unusually fine, and it is still used in the preparation of some sorts of glass. Cardinal Wolsey employed it largely for the building of the palace at Hampton Court. The market-house, at the E. end of the town, occupies the site of an ancient chajDel dedicated to Thomas u Becket, to pay their vows at which pilgrims turned aside from the hill road above. A small public hall, Surrey. Boute 5. — Beigate, 47 Gotliic iu style, was erected in tlie High-street in 1861. Passing down Bell-street, which opens opposite the market-house, the first turning 1. leads to a pleasant field-path by which Reigate Church is approached. It is dedicated to St. Mary Magda- lene, and has portions ranging from Trans.-Norm. (pillars of the nave) to Perp., the greater part, however, being Perp. The chancel was re- stored in 1845, when an interesting reredos (late Dec.) was discovered on removing the woodwork at the back of the altar. The nave was re- stored and reseated in 1858, and further restorations were made in 1876 to the aisles and tower, from the designs of the late Sir G. G. Scott. On the S. side of the chancel are 3 sedilia, on which traces of colour having been found they were en- tirely repainted, but the effect is not satisfactory. Several memorial and other painted windows have been inserted. The picturesque tower formerly contained the parochial library, the foundation of which was laid about 1701, but it has been removed to a room over the vestry. There are many monuments worth notice, but some of them have been misplaced in the course of the altera- tions. Remark especially in the N, chancel the wonderful memorial of Richard Ladbroke, Esq., of; Frenches, d. 1730, in which that " zealous member of the Church of England " appears habited in Roman costume, and attended by Justice and Truth, angels, trumpets, suns, and palm-branches. At the E. end is the monument of Sir Thomas Bludder of Flanchford, near Leigh {post), and wife, 1618, who died within a week of each other. Both have recumbent figures. The child that lay at their feet was removed at the " restoration " in 1845 to a most uncomfortable position in the side window of the N. chancel. In the high chancel were monuments of the Elyot family, with effigies ; but the effigies of Ilichard Elyot, sen., d. 1609, and of his son, d. 1612, are now placed in the N. chancel. The kneeling figure of the daughter Katherine, d, 1623, now occupies a niche in the S. chancel. No memorial is to be seen of the most interesting interment here — that of Charles Howard, Earl of Effingham, Eliza- beth's Lord High Admiral, and the conqueror of the Armada. He died at Haling House, near Croydon (Ete. 1 (A)), in 1621, aged 87; but was buried in the vault beneath this chancel with others of his family, the manor and Reigate Priory having been granted to this branch of the Howards by Edward VI. A much discussed monument of Edward Bird, Esq., d. 1718, which was formerly in the S. chancel, is now relegated to the belfry. Bird is figured with wig and truncheon, and with a " background of warlike instruments ;" to all which accom- paniments he was so far entitled that he was a lieutenant *' in the Marquis of Winchester's regiment of horse," and having " had the mis- fortune to kill a waiter near Golden- square," was hanged for the same. In the churchyard is an obelisk for Baron Maseres, d. 1824, the editor of some valuable tracts relat- ing to the periods of Elizabeth and Charles 1. Notice the large black marble slab, with only the name " Hume " thereon ; it covers the grave of John Deacon Hume, a writer on finance, &c. (b. 1774, d. 1842). At- tached to the older ground is a new cemetery for the disti ict, in which is a tolerably good mortuary chapel. The rapidly increasing population has occaaioned the erection of 5 modern churches, none of which calls for any special notice. On the Red- hill Road is the Grammar School, a spacious and handsome building of Tudor character, of native stone and coloured brick, opened in 1871, to replace a school founded about 1675, mainly with funds furnished by a 48 Boute 5. — Bedhill to Dorking and Guildford, Sect. I. bequest of the Charitable Henry Smith (see Rte. 8). Through a lane pleasantly over- hung with lime-trees, which flourish in perfection throughout this part of Surrey, the tourist may find his way from the church to Beigate Park, about J m. distant. This is a re- markable elevation of the Hastings sand, lying S. of the town, and com- manding very extensive views in every direction, especially toward the S. ; where the eye ranges over a vast extent of Weald country, across wliich the great waves of sliadow sweep anil break in perpetual change. Leith-hill, with its tower, the highest point of the greensand, is conspicu- ous rt. ; and 1. the ridge of East Gr instead forms a good landmark. The range of country seen from here, however, is the same as ttjat com- manded from the higher elevatioQ of the North Downs, from whence its character will be more easily pointed out (see post). But the views from Reigate Park will perhaps be regarded with more favour by the artist. Its sides are broken into those picturesque hollows especially characteristic of this formation, and filled with a deep growth of fern, from the midst of which rise clumps of old thorns and hollies, most pro- vocative of pencil and sketch-book. Larger trees rise toward the foot of the hill, nearer the inclosure of the Priory ; and the view, looking across the town of Reigate, with the church tower beyond, and the rich masses of foliage filling up the valley under the slopes of the chalk downs, is, especially towards sunset, very beau- tiful. The summit of the hill forms a level terrace of short turf, about J m. in length. Seats are placed at the best points, all of which the tourist should visit, especially one under a clump of trees toward the centre of the hill, a short distance below its crest, on the Reigate side. A picturesque walk encircles the hill at its base, which the visitor who has time will do well to follow. Either of the roads to E. or W. will take him back to Reigate. Between Reigate Park and the town, and contributing not a little by its well wooded grounds to the beauty of the scene from the former, is the Priory (Lady Henry Somerset), a modern house, partly of Queen Anne's time, which occupies the site of a priory of Augustinian canons, founded here by William Warren, in the early part of the 13th century. It was one of the lesser religious houses dissolved by Henry VIII., and its site was granted by Edward VI. to Lord William Howard (after- wards Lord Howard of Effingham). After some changes it was bestowed by Winiatn III. in 1697 on the family of the celebrated statesman Lord Somers, whose representative on the female side, Sir Charles Cocks, Bart., was created Baron Somers of Evesham, in 1784. His son was subsequently raised to the earldom (1821). In the hall of the existing house is a richly carved oak chimney-piece, some part of which, according to Manning, was formerly in Henry VIII.'s palace of Non- such, and was brought here by Lord Howard of Effingham ; but Evelyn says that it came here from a house of King Henry's at Bletchingley. The house contains a valuable col- lection of pictures. It seems un- certain whether it was here, or in Reigate Castle, that Foxe the mar- tyrologist spent some of the earlier years of his life in the family of the Duchess of Richmond, to whose care the children of her brother, the attainted Earl of Surrey, had been intrusted. It was, however, from her house at Reigate that he escaped after incurring the suspicion of Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester. The North Downs lie at a greater distance from the town than Rei- gate Park ; but the view commanded from them is so magnificent and so full of interest, that they should on Surrey. Route 5. — The Pilgrims' Way, 49 no account be left unvisited. The tourist can drive or walk to the suspension bridge on the road to Gatton (see post), but if he be a fair walker he should climb the chalk hills at the turning of tlie road about f m. N. from the railway station. Having gained the top, let him turn 1. through a thick wood of beech (the favourite tree of the chalk), on emerging from which he will find such a view spread out before him as probably no other country than England can boast of. It ex- tends from the borders of Hampshire over great part of Surrey and Sussex to the Weald country of Kent, which closes in the prospect E. Far in the distance rise the rounded outlines of the South Downs, strongly marked toward evening by the deep shadows of their hollows, a general charac- teristic of the chalk. The clump of trees in Chanctonbury Ring, above Worthing, is very conspicuous. Westward, Leith-hill, and beyond it the bare heights of Hindhead on the road from Godalming to Peters- field, are prominent. To the E. the principal landmarks are Tilburstow- hill, near Godstone, and Crow- borough Beacon, the highest point of the Sussex " forest ridge." In the valley below lies the town of Rei- gate, with the picturesque park of the Priory rising at its back. To the geologist this view is of very high interest ; since the physi- cal structure of the entire district is laid open before him. He looks from one ridge of the chalk to the other, across the Weald valley, perhaps the widest in the world, from which the intervening chalk has possibly been removed by suc- cessive changes of the surface. The range of greensand, which runs parallel with the chalk, may be traced from Leith-hill, its greatest elevation (993 ft.), .to Tilburstow- hill on the E. The greatest ele- vation of the forest ridge, with its ironstone, is seen at Crowborough ^Surrey, (fee] (804 ft.), and the range itself is trace- able from Horsham nearly as far as Hastings. For a fuller sketch of the geology of this district see In- troduction; but it may here be men- tioned that the displacement of the chalk from the Weald valley is thought to have been principally caused by the gradual elevation of this forest ridge, which broke up and threw on either side the super- incumbent chalk masses; subse- quent changes entirely swept away the chalk from the valley; and the two ranges of the North and South Downs now present on their N. and S. sides respectively (where they front the Weald) the appearance of steep, ancient sea-cliffs, the bases of which were in all probability washed at one time by the ocean. This feature of the chalk is nowhere better seen than above Reigate, where the hills stretch away on either side in a succession of folds rising sharply from the valley. Many quarries have been opened here, the sides of which are unprotected, and of which the visitor should beware. Along the very summit of the ridge runs the ancient track which, although pro- bably of British origin, is known as the "Pilgrims' Way," and seems to have been generally followed by pilgrims to the great shrine at Canterbury who came from South- ampton or the western counties. It has been traced from near Alton, in Hampshire, through Surrey and Kent, to the immediate neighbour- hood of Canterbury ; and is marked in this part of its course by lines of ancient yew-trees, which attain a great size in the chalky soil. The tourist should at all events follow this track (which he will easily find) for a short distance W. of Reigate. This will be found a rugged pil- grimage, for the old road is here and there overgrown with thickets suffi- ciently " tangled but the beauty of the prospect S. affords an ample E 50 Boiite 5. — BedMll to Dorking and Guildford. Sect. I. reward. He may descend into the valley at Buck! and (2 m. W. from Eeigate), from which place a row of dark yews climbs the hill-side. For good walkers the whole route along the crest of the Downs from Eeigate to Boxhill and Dorking, and thence to Guildford, may safely be recom- mended. The Pilgrims' Road is only to be traced at rare intervals ; and many parts of the Downs have been enclosed. Few more delight- ful ''skirmishes across country," however, can be suggested. Excursions. (1.) The tourist on his way to Eeigate should not neglect to visit Gatton Farh (Earl of Oxenbridge), by leaving the railway at the Merst- ham station and walking through the park to Eeigate, about 4 m. At Merstham he should see the church (Ete. 4). Gatton almost adjoins Merstham, but is about 2 J m. from Eeigate. Visitors are permitted to see the Hall every week-day; the house is shown only during the ab- sence of the family ; but leave is rarely refused to walk or drive through the park. This is large, richly, and very picturesquely wooded, and the views opening here and there toward Eeigate are very striking. On leaving the park for Eeigate the touiist will find himself close to the suspension bridge before mentioned, which crosses the old London-road. The view from the top of this bridge is very fine ; but if after climbing it he proceeds a short distance along the lane, W., he will reach the beech-woods on the summit of the North Downs already described. After seeing the prospect beyond them, the finest in this neighboruhood, he can descend into the town by a road cut along the edge of the chalk-pits. The house of Gatton, a stately Italian structure, conspicuous from the railway, was greatly enlarged and improved by the fifth Lord Monson, who, only 2 years before the introduction of the Eeform Bill, gave 100,000Z. for the estate, which then enjoyed the privilege of return- ing 2 members to Parliament. The house contains some very important pictures. The licdl^ a very fine apartment, copied from the Corsini Chapel in Eome, has a pavement of the richest coloured marbles, which Lord Monson purchased in Eome, in 1830, for 10,000/. The walls are also panelled to some height with various coloured marbles, above which are 4 fresco paintings by Severn — Pru- dence, represented by Queen Esther; Eesolution, by Eleanor, Queen of Edward 1. ; Meekness, by Euth ; and Patience, by Penelope. Of the tures^ the most interesting is the Holy Family, by Leonardo da Vinci, which has been engraved by Foster, and is " the chief work we possess of the somewhat earlier time of the great master."— Waagen. This pic- ture was bought by Lord Monson from Mr. Woodburn for 4000Z. Ee- mark also a portrait called that of Cosmo de Medici, by Sebastian del Fiomho, very much darkened, but still fine; a Virgin and Child, by Guido — " transparent and delicate ;" a Saint with the infant Christ, also by Guido — " carefully painted in his light but warm tones ;" and a Sportt;man, by Dohson. In the cor- ridor are — a remarkable picture of Caidplayers, by Nicholas Maes (?) ; two large views in Venice, by Cana- letto ; and David with the ISead of Goliath, by Guido. In the Dining- room are porti aits of Sir J. Monson, temp. Chas. I., and of his wife, by Jansen. An Etruscan vase, and a copy of the Warwick vase in white marble, should also be noticed. Gatton Church, which adjoins the house, from which there is a private entrance, was entirely renovated by Lord Monson in 1834. It is fitted up with some richly carved cak- stalls, with canopies and subsellse Surrey. Boute 5. — Buekland Church. — Leigh. 61 brought from Belgium. The altar and pulpit are from Nuremberg. The stained glass is from the old church of the monastery at Aerschot, near Louvain. Observe the luxuriously fitted transept pew appropriated to the Lords of Gatton. The parish of Gatton, whicli pro- bably derives its name from the road (Sax., (jeat, now gate) which here crossed the hills, was, according to tradition, the scene of a great slaughter of the Danes by the women of the district ; whence a small bridge here is still called Battle Bridge. These Northmen, it has been sug- gested, if there is any truth in the tradition, must have been fugitives from the field of Ockley (Kte. 6), where the Danes were defeated by Ethelwolf in 851. It need hardly be s;iid that Gatton was a place of con- siderable importance in the days of close boroughs, having enjoyed the privilege of returning 2 members since the reign of Henry VI. The pop. of the parish in 1881 was 222, so it has become comparatively popu- lous, for in the 33rd Henry Vlll. (1541) Sir Roger Copley, Kt.,*" being the burgess and only inhabitant of the borough and town of Gatton," freely elected and chose its two honourable members. (2.) The picturesque little Church of Buchland, 2 m. W, of Reigate, should be setn. It was almost entirely rebuilt in 1860 ; only the old wooden tower was left untouched. The restoration was made with great taste. The interior is richly orna- mented, and every window filled with painted glass by Hardman. Some fragments of old painted glas^, one being a figure of St. Paul, of very fine character, were carefully preserved. At the same time a new school and school -house were built ; and altogether the village has been much improved without losing any- thing of its old picturesqueness. Adjoining the churchyard is Buch- land Court (F. Beaumont, Esq.). (3.) A walk to Leigh (pronounced Lye), 3 m. S.W. ot Reigate, will give the tourist an idea of the general character of the Weald here, though it is not so pleasantly varied as it becomes farther S. and W., below Leitli-hill. He may cross Eeigate Common, W. of the town, where is a picturesque mill, admirably suited for the sketch-book. Some excellent points of view will be found at the clumps of fir-trees, nearer the Buck- land road. The furze and heath on parts of this common are covered with the scarlet threads of the lesser dodder. In every sandpit through- out the district (and especially on Redhill), colonies of sand martins have established themselves; aft*)rd- ing excellent opportunities for study- ing what Gilbert White calls " the life and conversation " of this else- where rare little bird. There is another and very pleasant way to Leigh, and easier to find, starting fi om Reigate Park and crossing the Mole by Flanchford Place, the ancient seat of the Bliidders. Leigh may also be reached from Redhill Stat, by Earls wood, and through a succession of narrow Surrey lanes. In either case, as the way by the lanes and fields is somewhat devious and wayfarers are few, the tourist will do well to keep the tower of Leith-hill well before him as a land- mark. The Perp. Church of Leigh has been restored, and contains the very fine Brasses, in the chancel, of John and Elizabeth Arderne, c. 1440. His civilian's costume is a good example; she wears the horned head-dress. The elfigies of Richard Arderne and his wife Joan, 1499, are gone, but the inscriptions remain ; and at the top of the slab is a singular representation of the Holy Trinity. The Almighty Father, seated in a chair, supports a tau -shaped cross, on which is the figure of the Saviour. Ou the left arm of the cross sits the Dove. The work is rude, and may £ 2 52 Boute 5. — BeclMll to Dorking and Guildford. Sect. I, have been local. Before reaching the church the tourist will have passed Leigh Place, the ancient resi- (ience of the Ardernes, but now a farmhouse. The house has been much altered, but is of considerable antiquity. The walls and heavy chimney buttresses are covered with ivy ; and the moat remains crossed by narrow bridges. Some very large oaks stretch their arms over the neighbouring meadows. A field-path leads from the church- yard towards Swain^s Farm, where, says tradition (there is no other evidence), Ben Jonson occasionally retired from the smoke and stir of London, for the sake of uninter- rupted study. The house is irregular, low, and built of brick, with much timber interspersed. Heavy beams cross Ihe ceiling of the kitclien ; and opening from it was a smaller room, oak panelled, which has been thrown into an adjoining apartment. This was called " Ben Jonson's study," and the panelling is as old as his time. There is a long oaken table also called his ; and a pair of fire- dogs of Sussex iron. Mynthurst, the large modern Elizabethan mansion on the hill above, is the residence of James Wilson, Esq. (4.) A field-path crosses the Downs above Reigate towards Walton-on- the-Hill (4J m. N.W.). The Crystal Palace is conspicuous far away to the rt.; but this part of the country, although here and there pleasantly wooded, appears tame after the mag- nificent prospects toward the S. On Walton Heath, which is crossed on the way to the village, and over which the Stone-street f)asses N. from Dorking, remains of a Roman villa were discovered in 1772 ; they were more completely explored in 185G, when a good tesselated pave- ment was laid open. Malton Gliiircli is for the most part modern (1818), and b}' no means to be commended, least of all the pretentious octagonal tower. It contains, however, a circular leaden font, of late Norm, character, richly moulded and orna- mented. Norm, circular arches surround it, in each of which is the sitting figure of a saint.* Walton Place, near the church, is one of the many residences which tradition has assigned to Anne of Cleves, after her separation from Henry YIII. It is now a farmhouse, but still shows some ancient buttresses and chim- neys. There is a delightful walk from Walton Heath along the ridge of the Down by Betchworth clump to Boxhill and Dorking (about 5m.) Proceeding from Reigate through the valley, between the chalk hills and the greensand, which rise rt. and 1., the train reaches. 4f m, Bletchworth Stat. 1 m. N. from the village. Close to the station S. is Broome House (for- merly the residence of Sir Benjamin Brodie, the eminent surgeon). The walk from here to Dorking, 4 m., through Betchworth Park {see post), may be safely recommended. Betchworth Church was restored, and in part rebuilt in 1853, when the tower was removed from its origi- nal position above the intersection of the nave and chancel, to its present site, near the centre of the south side. It contains some interesting poitions of Norm., E. E. and Perp., and on the chancel floor is the fine Brass of Wm. Wardysworth, vicar, 1533. In the S. chancel remark a rude iron-bound oak chest, which may be of great antiquity. All tiie * A leaden font resembling this, \vitli figures illustrating the months, exists at Frookland, in Komney Marsh (see Handbook for Kent) ; and there is another, with figures of the months and of the zodiac, in the Church of S. Evroult de Montfort, near Kouen. These fonts are all of the same date (end of 11th centy.). Surrey. Boute 5 . — Ble tclmorth — Box-hill, 53 windows are of stained glass. In the churchyard is the grave of Cap- tain Morris, d. 1838, aged 93, the well-know^ii song-writer, -who pre- ferred the " sweet shady side of Pall Mall " to the oaks, beeches, and chestnuts of Betcliworth. Betchworth House (Col.Goulburn), a fine Jacobean mansion, was long the seat of the Bouveries, from whom it passed, in 1817, to the Kt. Hon. Henry Goulburn, Chancellor of the Exchequer, in whose family it re- mains. Farther E., on the Mole, is the old manor-house. More Place, (Jas. Corbett, Esq.), the oldest piece of domestic architecture in the neigh- bourhood: it is said to be of the time of Henry VI., but it has b( en greatly altered, and its real age dis- guised. Immediately E., also on the IMole, is Wonham Manor the pleasant seat of the late Albert Way, Esq., the eminent antiquary. About 1 m. W. of Betchworth, and near the 1. bank of the Mole, is BrocJcham Green, a pretty rural spot On it is Christ Church (a district church of Betchworth par.), a pic- turesque cruciform church, E.E. in style, erected from the designs of Mr. B. Ferrey, as a memorial to the accomplished eldest son of the Chan- cellor of the Exchequer, Goulburn. On the green is a Home and Indus- trial School for training orphan girls for domestic service, founded by the Hon. Mrs. Way. See the very picturesque reach of the Mole, by the mill immediately N. of the green : a little W. is an entrance to Betchworth Park — the pleasantest route to Boxhill or Dorking. Notice the noble chestnut trees, and the lime avenue. 1 mile farther we reach 7i m. Box-hill Stat, in the centre of the most picturesque district of Surrey. Norhury Park (T. De La G. Grii-sell, Esq.) is seen on the hill, rt. There is a pleasant walk by Deep- dene to the town of Dorking, about J m. distant ; also one longer, and pleasanter, to Mickleham, 2 m. through the beautiful valley watered by the stream of the Mole. There is an excellent Inn (the Fox and Hounds) at Burford Bridge, close under Box-hill, about 1 m. rt. of the station. Whilst staying here, Keats wrote the latter part of his * Endymion;' and here Lord Nelson spent some days before sailing for Trafalgar. Close adjoining is Bur- ford Lodge (Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bt., M.P.). The view of Box-hill from this side is very striking. Bald patches of chalk occur S. and W., but on the N.W. it is one verdurous wall," and nearly precipitous. Box-Mil itself (about 445 ft. above the level of the Mole towards Nor- hury Park, a very marked feature N.) commands a most noble prospect resembling those from the Keigate downs, and from Leith-hill, and quite as beautiful, though of less extent than either. Seats have been placed at different points of the ascent from the main road, and a cottage built on the summit by the late H. T. Hope, Esq., of the Deep- dene, to whom the hill belonged, for the use of picnic parties, and at which slight refreshments may be had. About 230 acres on the W. side of the hill are covered with box and yew, giving it an evergreen character very unusual in England. Some doubt has arisen as to whether the box is an English " native the names, however, of Adam and Henry ''de Buxeto," which occur here as witnesses to charters, temp.John and Hen. III. (besides many other indi- cations), prove that, if introduced at all, it must have been at a very early period. It is far more probable that, like the yew, it is of indige- nous growth. On the N.W. brow of the hill, and nearly in a line with the stream of the Mole, was 54 Boute 5. — Redhill to Dorhing and Guildford. Sect. I. buried, June 11, 1800, a Major Labellicre, who had lived for some years at Dorking, and whose mind had become unsettled in consequence of " an unrequited attachment." He was buried here at his own request, and with his head downwards, since in his opinion the world was " turned topsyturvy," and he thus hoped to be "right at last." [At the end of West Humble Street " is Camilla Lacey (J. L. Wylie, Esq.), the cottage ih which Miss Burney lived after her mar- riage with General D'Arblay, and where she wrote 'Camilla;' hence the name of the house, which was fitted up for the occasion by Mr. Lock, of Norbury. Madame D'Ar- blay resided here for many years, but the house has since been much. enlarged and improved. In the Fridley meadows is a group of those remarkable sival- lows into which the river Mole dis- appears at certain intervals. They are situated in private grounds, not accessible to the public, but they may be observed in dry seasons ; and although Camden exaggerates when he asserts that " The inhabitants of this tract, no less than the Spaniards, may boast of having a bridge that feeds several flocks of sheep," it is nevertheless true that in very dry seasons the river disappears from Burford Bridge, to witliin a short distance of Leatherhead, nearly 3m. of its course. They occur in two large deep pools close to the eastern bank of the river, and may be seen in operation by descending to the brink of the stream. The water rushes into these crevices as through, the holes of a colander ; and " in some places may be distinctly heard in its transit to the gullies beneath." There arc other swallows below Korbm-y Park and elsewhere. Near Thorncroft Bridge, not far from Leatherhead, numerous springs break forth both I'rom the bed and sides of the river, and the Mole once more pursues its course " under the open skies." It should be remarked that the bed of the river is only dry during the summer ; in winter the subterranean hollows speedily be- come filled, and the water flows on above in its proper course. Com- pare with this the subterranean rivers in the E. part of Staftbrdsliire, the Hamps and the Manifold. (See Handbook for Staffordshire.) "The phenomena," says Dr. Man- tell, "observable in the bed of the Mole as it passes through the chalk valley at Box-hill, are referable to the cavernous nature of the subsoil over which the river flows. The vale of Box-hill, like the other transverse outlets of the chalk of the N. Downs, has evidently resulted from an exten- sive Assure produced in the strata while they were being elevated from beneath the waters of the ocean by w^hich they were once covered. A chasm of this kind must have been partially filled with loose blocks of the chalk rock, the interstices being more or less occupied by clay, marl, sancl, and other drift brought down by the floods which traversed this gorge, and found their way to the vale of the Thames. . . . The s^6a//o?6'5 are evi- dently nothing more than gullies which lead to the flsaires and channels in the chalk rock beneath." * In the grounds of Burford Lodge are some deep hollows called hold- waters," into which the water rises during winter floods, showing an underground connection with the bed of the river, and the cavernous nature of the strata beneath. " Swallow-holes " of nearly the same character as these occur in difl'orent jiarts of the chalk districts throughout the south of England. * A careful notice of the swallows on the Mole, togcth' r with Dr. Mantell's remarks on their origin, and a map of this portion of the river, will be fonnd in Brayley's ' History of Surrey,' vol. i. Surrey. Boute o.—Fridley Farm — Dorldng, 55 The Hampriliirc " lavaiits " and the Kentish nailbournes " are produced by simihir causes — the existence, namely, of extensive subterranean hollows which become lilled with water and overflow in wet seasons. Such outbursts of water occur also in different parts of Surrey, as at the Bourne Mill, near Faruham, at Merstham, and under Marden Park. "In the face of extensive chalk- quarries, it is not uncommon to tind traces of large subterranean channels, partiallj^ tilled with alluvial debris which have once served as water- courses. The chalk-pit at South Street, near Lewes, contained a fine example of this kind at the period of my resid- ence in that town." — MantcU, It is to its underground course through these hollows that the river is indebted for the epithet of sullen " applied to it by Milton and by Pope, and the name also has sometimes been derived from them ; thus Spenser, at the *' banquet of the Watery Gods "('Faery Queen,' b. iv., canto xi. st. 32), describes Mole, that like a mouding mole doth make His way still underground, till Thames he overtake." This, however, is very questionable. It seems to have been known by its present name during the Saxon period, although it is afterwards referred to as the " Emlay " or ^' Emlyn " stream, and gives name to the hundred of Emley, now Elm- bridge (about Molesey ),the " Amele ' of Domesday. The two names pro- bably represent the same original word, though whether this is, as has been suggested, the British Melin or y-Mdia, the " mill "(mill-stream \ is uncertain. The principal springs of the Mole rise in St. Leonard'^ and Tilgate forests in Sussex : it receives, however, two important accessions from the S.E. and N.E., near Kin- nersley Bridge, S. of lieigate ; and at the base of Box-hill is joined by the Pip brook from the ^V. Fridley Farm was for many years the residence of Richard Sharp, Esq., better known as " Conversation Sharp " (d. 1835)— Sir James Mack- intosh, and other celebrated "con- versationists," having frequently as- sembled at Fridley, famous, like all this neighbourhood, for the myriads of nightingales which haunt its groves. Beyond the meadows a path ascends to Norhury Park, whence the walk may be continued to Miclcleham, and thence back by Burford Bridge. For notices of Norbury Park, Mickleham, and the valley of the Mole — a very beautiful road — see Rte. 6.] After leaving the Box-hill Station, the stately front of Denbies (Rt. Hon. Geo. Cubitt, M.P.), and the spire of Ran more church are seen on the hillside rt., and the train soon reaches 8 m. Dorking Stat., locally called " Darking," and anciently so spelt. The name, according to Kemble, marks the site of a primitive Saxon " mark " or settlement — that of the Deorcingas. The town (Pop. 27,000) lies about J m. S. of the station. Inns : Red Lion ; White Horse, anciently the Cross House " (from its sign, the Cross of the Knights of St. John), and held of the manor of St. John of Jerusalem at Clerken- well. The grassy commoji at the back of the High-street, called Cot- mandene should be noticed, as from it a good viewofDeej9(Ze7ie is obtained. The town contains little of interest, although pleasant and cheerful, and an excellent centre for the tourist, who will find in its neighbourhood some of the finest scenery in the county. Dorking lies on the Roman Stone - street," which ran from Chichester to London ; and the great number of large inns it formerly contained mark it as having been 56 Houte 5. — Bedhill to Dorhing and Guildford. Sect. I. a place of considerable traffic im- portance. It was at one time much frequented by Dutch merchants, " who used to come from London to eat water souchy of perch^ made in great perfection here.'' The old Church of St. Martin * in which were buried Abraham Tucker, author of the ' Inght of Nature,' and Jeremiah Markland the learned editor of Euripides, was, with the exception of the chancel, replaced in 1835-7 by a tasteless -edifice, which has now given way to a really handsome Gothic Church, completed 1876. The work was begun in 1873, when the chancel was rebuilt, and the whole has now been rebuilt in a sumptuous and correct style, and with stately fittings, by Woodyer. It is constructed of flint and Bath stone, is in the Dec. style, and has a lofty tower and spire, designed as a memorial of Bishop Wilberforce. Hoole, the translator of Tasso and Ariosto, is buried in the churchyard, (The " Stone-street " crossed the N.W. angle of the churchyard, where many coins have been found.) The churchyard is no longer used as a burial-place, a cemetery having been formed about J m. E., on the Eeigate road. John Mason, the author of ' Self- Knowledge,' was long minister of the Independents at Dorking. Dorking is celebrated for its breed of poultry, characterised by their 5 claws ; there are three varieties, the coloured," " cuckoo " and white or rose-combed," of which the two former are specially noted for their hardiness and quality as a table- fowl. In the immediate neighbourhood of Dorking is Deepdene (Lord Henry * In chap. i. of Mr. Beresford Hope's 'Worship in the Church of England' (Mur- ray), an account is given of the mode of performing the service in a certain church in the reign of George IV. The name is not given, but there can he little doubt about DorkiDg being meant. Pelham Clinton) lying S. of the rail, and close to the town, long the well-known residence of Thomas Hope, the author of ' Anastasius,' and then of his eldest son, the late H. T. Hope, Esq. The Deepdene was for some centuries the property of the Howards, into whose hands it passed (with the manor of Dorking) through the Fitzalans and the War- rens. It was sold in 1791 to Sir Wm. Burrell, from whose successor it was purchased by Mr. T. I Tope. He built the greater part of the present house. The S.E. or principal front (Italian, and unusually good) was added by his son, H. T. Hope. The house used to be shown to the public under the late owners ; the present proprietor, however, has for the present entirely refused admission to visitors. The chief glory of the house at the Deepdene is the sculpture, the greater part of which was collected by the author of * Anastasius ' and the * Essay oh Architecture.' In the vestibule is Banii's statue of Napoleon holding the globe in his outstretched hand. The entrance- hall^ beyond, is very striking. It is of stately proportions, and the floor is of polished marble, with occasional mosaics, some of which are ancient. Around, and in the upper and lower galleries, is arranged the principal collection of sculpture. Of the An- tique, observe especially a so-called Hyacinthus, of which the left hand holds a bronze flower; a portrait statue of the Emperor Hadrian ; and behind in the gallery some figures of the first Greek period. Of the Modern, the finest are two of Thar- waldsen^s best works — the " Jason with the Golden Fleece," and the "Shepherd Boy from the Campagna." The "Jason," a grand and heroic figure, has an especial interest as the turning-point of the artist's life and reputation. Tliorwaldsen, dis- heartened, was on the point of SuRRi:Y. Boiite 5. — The Deepdene, 57 leaving Eome, when Mr. Hope paid an almost accidental visit to his studio. Here he saw the design for the Jason, immediately ordered it in marble, and the sculptor at once became famous. A cast from the beautiful Shepherd Boy " may be seen at Sydenham. The dog was Thorwaldseu's own " Transtevere." In the gallery behind is an alto- rilievo presented by Thorwaldsen to Mr. Hope, and representing Genius pouring oil on a lamp, whilst His- tory below is recording the triumphs of Art. At tlie other end is a bas- relief by Floxman. The group of " Cephalus and Aurora " by the same sculptor, in the hall, should not pass uanoticed. Observe also a ''Girl Bathing," by R. J. Wyatt. In the centre of the hall is a fine copy of the Florentine Boar," in white marble, by Bartolini. In the sculpture gallery, opening into the conservatory, among other admirable things, observe the antique Minerva, a grand figure, 7 ft. high, found in 1797 at the mouth of the Tiber; and a marble vase of unusual size. Here is also a late and amended replica of Canova's '* Venus coming from the Bath." AVith it may be compared a copy in the hall, hj Bartolini, of the first version of the statue, from which it will be evident that Canova's later alterations were really im- provements. Both in the sculpture gallery and in the hall will be noticed several copies in marble of famous ancient and modern statues. In the Etruscan or music-room, is a very interesting collection ot early Greek and Etruscan vases and an- tique bronzes. The seats here, as well as much of the furniture in the principal apartments, are from the designs of Mr. Thomas Hope him- self, whose book on ' Household Furniture ' was published in 1807. The furniture depicted in that work was that of his London house, in Duchess-strcct, Portland-place, now pulled down. A large portion of this, and of the collections in that house, were transferred to the Deep- dene, already rich in works of art. In the hilliard-room are several pictures from the Iliad by Westall ; some views in India by Daniel; two curious " Scenes on the Boule- vards " and " at the Tuileries," by Chalon ; and a few ancient paint- ings. The large drawing-room is lined with panels of painted satin, and contains some fine Sevres and Dresden china. In the small draw- ing-room observe two fine enamels by Bone, Mr. Hope in the Turkish dress which he wore in his Eastern travels, and Mrs. Hope (afterwards remarried to Marshal Lord Beres- ford); Canova's "Psyche with the Casket," which stands at the end of the room, and various rich antique and cinquecento bronzes and orna- ments. In the dining-room are — two alle- gorical pictures, with figures the size of life, by P. Veronese, representing, one" Strength led by Wisdom," and the other the artist himself turning away from Vice to Virtue — " fine and remarkable works of the mas- ter " (Waagen) ; " St. Michael over- coming Satan," by Raffaele ; and a Magdalene by Correggio. In the small dining-room are — a portrait of Lady Decies by Sir Joshua Reynolds; one of Haydon's earliest pictures, a " Repose in Egypt ; " Martinis well- known "Fall of Babylon," one of the best of his gigantic subjects: " King Edward and Queen Eleanor," by Hilton ; and a remarkable pic- ture by /. W. Glass, a Scottish artist, called " The Nigiit March "— troopers, in bright armour, are cross- ing a ford by moonlight, the effect of which is well given. In the boudoir is a large collection of enamels, chiefly by Bone ; a fine portrait of Mrs. Hope; a pleasing collection of miniatures; and a number of Dutch paintings, among which are views of streets and build- ingjs in Holland, by G. Berkheiden. 58 Moute 5. — BedMll to Dorhing and Guildford. Sect. 1. Flaxman's original drawings for his Dante and uEschylus are preserved in the library. The art-treasures in the house at the Deepdene are at least equalled in beauty by the scene without. The Dene itself, a long steep glade, carpeted with turf, and closed in by an amphitheatre of fern, opens close to the house. The lower part forms a flower-garden ; and the whole scene, with its occasional cypresses and sunny patches of greensward, is Poubsinesque and strictly classical ; belonging not to English fairies, but to the wood spirits of the old world, — " Panaque Bylvanumque senem, Nymphasque sorores." — A walk leads to the upper part, through a beech wood, in which much of the undergrowth consists of rhododendrons. At the head, and looking clown over the Dene, is a small Doric Temj^le, with the inscription " Fratri Optimo H. P. H., 1810." This temple was erected by Mr. Thos. Hope to commemorate the generosity of his brother, Mr. Henry Philip Hope, who made him a present of the estate of Chart Park, since then incorporated in the Deepdene. The view here, although very striking, is perhaps not so much so as that from btlow; and the middle distance, owing to the bare chalk hill opposite, is not good. Tlie " Dene " is the " amphitheatre, gar- den, or solitaire recess," seen and commended by Evelyn on the occa- sion of his visit to " Mr. Ohas. Howard " in 1655. A more recent visitor to the Deepdene, Mr. Dis- raeli, wrote here the greater part of his romance of ' Coningsby.' Behind the temple, on the top of tlie hill, is a terrace with a hue beech avenue, commanding noble views over the tree-covered Wealds of Surrey and Sussex. Brockham spire cloise below, the range of the chalk toward Reigate, and East Grinstead tower on its distant high ground, make good landmarks. This terrace belonged to Chart Farh, the house of which stood below, but has long been destroyed, and the park added to that of the Deepdene. In that part which lies below the terrace are some groups of very large Oriental planes, some of which mea- sure upwards of 10 ft. in circum- ference at one foot from the ground. There are also some large Scotch pines, of which the varying growth and character may be well studied here ; and some grand old cedars of Lebanon. Other trees of unusual size, hawthorns, Sophora japonica, Salisburia, and Liquidambar, are scattered through the park. The whole of the ground about the Deepdene is varied and beauti- ful. A large tulip-tree on the lawn fronting the houbO should not pass unremarked; the trunk measures 10 It. in circumference. A walk, open to the public, leads through the Deepdene park into that of Betchworth, which, like Chart, now forms part of one domain. Here is one of the noblest avenues in the W'Orld, nearly 1000 it. long, and formed of lime-trees, a true sylvan cathedral. In the lower park, near the river, are some grand old chest- nuts with gnarled trunks, that form choice studies for the painter, and which may be as old jis the first inclosure of Betchworth by Sir Thomas Browne in 1419. Two of these trees are upwards of 20 ft. in girth. Betchworth Castle, of which bome shapeless ruins remain on the W. bank of the Mole, was fortified and embattled by Sir Thomas at the same time as the park was in- closed. It subsequently became the property of Abraham Tucker, author of the ' Light of Nature,' who resided and died here. The " Glory Wood " derives its name from a clump of Scotch firs of great age and size which formerly crowned the hill rising to the S. of St. Paul's church. About sixty SURREV. Route 5. — Leith-Mll. 59 years ago tlie hill was planted, so that a thick wood surrounds the tirs, which are now sadly diminished in numbers. Fronting Deepdene and "The Glory," but on the N. side of the rly., is Denhies (Kt. Hon. Geo. Cubitt, M.P.), the stately residence built by the late T. Cubitt, Esq. TJie estate formerly belonged to W. J. Denison, M.P. (the banker, and brother of the Marchioness of Couyngham), who bequeathed it to his neplicw, the late Lord Londes- borough. From him the Cubitts bought it, and rebuilt the mansion, which is remarkable for the very protected range of conservatories connected therewith. The house contains some good pictures. On a clear day St. Paul's and the towers of Westminster are distinctly visible from the terrace and the heights above, to which a bridle-path open to the public leads, passing close by the house. The ride or walk may be continued across Ranmore Com- mon, by White Down and Hawk- hurst Downs, towards Guildford, returning to Dorking by Gomshall and Wotton. AVide and magnificent views are commanded the whole way. Or, if ihe visitor pleases, he may cross Ranmore Common toward Pole^den, descending upon West Humble. The finest views of Box- hill are obtained from this route. There is also a pleasant walk, through very picturesque and varied scenery, iilong the E. side of Ran- more Common, and over Fetcham Downs to Leatherhead. At Ranmore is the handsome Church oUSi. Barna- bas, erected by the late Sir G.G.Scott, R.A., at the cost of Mr. Cubitt. It is cruciform, with a large octagonal tower containing 8 bells, and a spire 150 ft. high ; E.E. in style, very richly ornamented both outside and in, and exquisitely finished. A more distant excursion from Dorking, is that to the summit of Leith'hill (993 ft., the highest ground in this part of England). The road most worth taking is by Rosehill and Redland (where the woods are fine and worth exploring), and by a long ascent through wooded lanes, to Coldharbour, at the foot of the hill. Hero the prospect suddenly opens S. and S.E., rich and very beautiful. 1. of Coldharbour, immediately over the village (where is a good modern E. E. church, with a stained window by Willtment; also a comfortable village inn), is Hanstiebury, a cir- cular camp with a double trench. The area (about 10 acres) is nearly covered with trees and underwood. Flint arrowheads have been found close by. At Winterfield, not far distant, a wooden box, containing about 700 Saxon oins, was found in 1817. The dates ranged from 726 to 890, indicating that the hoard was probably buried during the Danish troubles. The road, to the top of Leith-hill, is practicable for a pony carriage. A horseman or pedestrian will do better, and will be able to diverge t j the higher ground and the heathery banks of the lanes, which invite him in all directions. After climbing Cold- harbour-hill, and rounding the fir plantations which crown it, famous for their undergrowth of whortle- berries, Leith-hill and tower break all at once on the sight, with the crests of Hindhead closing the dis- tance S.W., and Frensham ponds gleaming like miniature lakes in the heath below them. The view from the top of the hill is very fine, although the artist will rather find his work among the picturesque hollows that lead up to it. " Twelve or thirteen counties can be seen from it," says Evelyn. Aubrey reckons as visible parts of Sussex, Surrey, Hants, Berks, Oxfordshire, B uckingham.shire, Hertfordshire, Middlesex, Kent, Essex, "and, by the help of a telescope, AYiltshire.'* "On July 15, 1844, the air being remarkably clear, a p[uty of the 60 Bouie 5. — Bedhill to Dorking aucl Guildford. Sect. I. Ordnance Surveyors then encamped on the hill, saw with the naked eye an observatory, only 9 ft. square, near Ashford, in Kent; and with a small telescope, a stalf only 4 in. in diameter, on Dunstable Downs. The spires of 41 churches in London were also visible, as well as the scaffolding around the new Houses of Parliament." — Brayley. The smoke-cloud of London, with the heights of Highgate and Muswell- hill, crowned by the towers of tlie Alexandra Palace, may readily be made out on a clear day. From one point the high grounds about Nettle- bed in Oxfordshire are sometimes visible, and the sea opens southward through Slioreham Gap. Westward, the sand-hills bordering the chalk lift themselves, fold beliind fold, toward the Hog's Back, like so many bastions stretching forward into the oak-covered Wealden below. Of these hills Ewhurst (post)^ with its windmills, is most conspicuous. The area included in the view from the highest point of the hill is about 200 miles in circumference. Pope's Dennis, the hero of the * Dunciad,' declares that it is more extensive than that upon Valdarno from the Apennines, or that over the Cam- pagna (which Arnold comparts to the " surging hills of Surrey ") from Tivoli, and that it " surpasses them at once in rural charm, pomp, and magnificence." The geological character common to Surrey and Sussex may readily be traced from this watch-tower," ranging from the chalk of the Hog's Back, over the gault, sands, and Weahlen clays, to the distant South Downs. (See Ititroduction.) The tower on Leith-hill was built in 1766, by a Mr. Hull, of Leith Hill Place. Mr. Hull, who died Jan. 18, 1772, was, by his own wish, buried in the tower, and a wall-tablet recorded that, having " lived the earlier part of his life in intimacy with Pope, Trenchard, and Bp. Berkeley, he at last retired to Leith Hill Place, where he led the life of a true Christian and rural philo- sopher." A Latin inscription over the en- trance to the tower informed the visitor that Mr. Hull erected it, not for himself alone, but for the gratifi- cation of his neighbours and of all. After a time, however, the tower was suffered to go to ruin, and for years the entrance was walled up. But Mr. Evelyn, of Wotton, having purchased the estate, has repaired and heightened the tower, so that it may yet again be open for the general good. The old tablet of Mr. Hull remains, and another has been placed above it, stating simply that Wm. J. Evelyn, lord of the manor, restored this tower in 1864. An earthen jar, containing gold coins of Henry VIIL, Edward VI., and Elizabeth, was found on the S. side of the tower in 1837. The tourist may descend Leith- hill on the AV. side, in the direction of Tcmhurst, at which point the view is perhaps more picturesque than on the summit. The rich Weald country is seen beyond a fine broken foreground, with scattered pines. Tanhurst itself was long the resid- ence of Sir Samuel Romilly. On this side the return to Dorking may be made by Abinger Common, the Rookery, and Westgate {post), or E. by Ockley, Bear Green, and Holm- iDoocl ComntOii (Rte. 6), where the rly. gives the opportunity of shorten- ing the journey 4 or 6 m. The tourist can also reach Guildford by the rly., say from the Gomshall Stat., about 4 m. N.W. [By Boad. — From Dorking the rly. continues westward along the valley to Guildford ; but the tourist, if he is in search of the picturesque, will make the journey leisurely and by the old hiliy roads, keeping for Surrey. Boiite 5. — Bury Hill — Wotton Church, 61 the most part on the top of the chalk ridge, wliich he may either follow for the whole distance to Gnildford, by Kanmore Common (above Den- bies) and White Down ; or, after jiassing through Wotton and Sliere, he may climb to the summit of the Downs at Newland's Corner ; or he may take the lower, but still very interesting, road S. of the rly., by Wotton to Gomshall, deviating on his way to visit Abinger. Taking the road towards Wotton, about 1 m. W. from Dorking, lies Bury Hill (K. Barclay, Esq.), with well-w^ooded grounds, commanding fine views, gardens, an extensive Pinetum, and an Observatory stored with the best instruments. There is a fine sheet of water before the house, and the Deodaras, planted in 1828, are the tallest in England. The park is open to the public ; and on a summit called " the Nower '* a summer-house has been erected for the express accommodation of visitors (the name occurs elsewhere among the hills of the southern counties ; "the Nore " is a wooded height above Selborne, Ete. 18). Nearly opposite, rt., is Milton Court (L. M. Rate, Esq.), an Elizabethan mansion of red brick, formerly a fai-mhouse, but now enlarged and restored. It contains a fine old staircase. Here Jeremiah Markland, well-known for his labours on Statins and Euripides, lived for many years, and died in 1776. Person is said to have made a pilgrimage to Milton Court as a mark of respect for Mark- Jand's learning. On Milton Heatl), adjoining the road, is a tumulus marked by a clump of firs. At West