5» Digitized by tlie Internet Archive in 2014 ( https://archive.org/details/travelsthroughst01weld_1 TRAVELS THROUGH THE STATES OP NORTH .AMERICA, AND THE PROVINCES OF UPPER AND LOWER CANADA, DURING THE YEARS 1795, 1796, AND 1797. By ISAAC WELD, Jun. FOURTH EDITION. JLLUSTRATED AND EMBELLISHED WITH SIXTEEN PLATES. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: PRINTED FOR JOHN STOCKDALEj PICCADILLY. I8O7. i\ GiUftt, Primer, Wild^court, Lincoln's-Inn-Fieid*. PREFACE. AT a period when War was spreading desola- tion over the fairest parts of Europe^ when anar- chy seemed to be extending its frightful pro- gress from nation to nation, and when the storms that were gathering over his native country/*^ in particular^ rendered it impossible to say how soon any one of its inhabitants might be forced to seek for refuge in a foreign land ; the Au- thor of the following pages was induced to cross the Atlantic, for the purpose of examin* ingwith his own eyes into the truth of the va- rious accounts w hich had been given of the flourishing and happy condition of the United States of America, and of ascertaining whether, in case of future emergency, any part of those territories might be looked forward to as an eligible and agreeable place of abode. Arrived in America, he travelled pretty generally through the states of Pennsylvania, Delaw are, Maryland, Virginia, New Jersey, and New York; he af- terwards passed into the Canadas, desirous of obtaining equal information as to the state of those provinces^ and of determining from his own immediate observations, how far the pre sent condition of the inhabitants of the Britiib * Ireland. ir - PREFACE. dominions in America might be inferior or otherwise^ to that of the people of the States, who had now indeed thrown off the yoke^ but were formerly common members of the same extensive empire. When abroad he had not the most distant intention of publishing his travels ; but find- ing on his return home, that much of the matter contained in the following letters was quite new to his friends^ and being induced to think that it might prove equally new^, and not wholly unacceptable to the Public, he came to the re- solution of committing them to print : accord- ingly the present volume ^ is now offered to the world, in an humble hope, that if not enter- taining to all readers, it will at least be so to some, as well as useful to future travellers. If it shall appear to any one, that he has spoken with too much asperity of American men and American manners, the author besfs that such language may not be ascribed to hasty prejudice, and a blind partiality for every thing that is European. He crossed the Atlantic strongly prepossessed in favour of the people, and the country, which he was about to visit ; and if he returned w ith sentiments of a different tendency, they resulted solely from a cool and dispassionate observation of what chance pre- sented to his view when abroad. * The fir^t edition was printed in one quarto volume. PREFACE. Y An enthusiastic admirer of the beauties of Nature^ the scenery of the countries through which he passed did not fail to attract a great part of his attention ; and interspersed through the book will be found views of what he thought would be most interesting to his readers : they are what he himself sketched upon the spot^ that of Mount Vernon, the seat of General Wash- ington, indeed, excepted, for which he is in- debted to an ingenious friend that he met in America, and the view of Bethlehem. He has many more views in his possession ; but he thought it better to furnish his publisher with a few only, in hopes that the engraving from them would be well executed, rather than with a great many, which, had tliey been given, must either have been in a style unworthy of the Public ey e, or else have swelled the price of the volume beyond the reach of many that may now read it. Of the resemblance which these views bear to their respective archetypes, those alone can be judges, who have been spectators of the original sceyes. With regard to the Ca« taract of Niagara, however, it must be observ- ed, that in views on so small a scale, no one must expect to find a lively representation of its wonderful and terrific vastness, even were they executed by artists of far superior merit; the inserting of the three in the present work is done merely in the hope that they may help, to- Ti PREFACE, gether with the ground plan of the precipice^ if it maj be so called^ to give a general idea of the position and appearance of that stupea dous Cataract. Those who are desirous of be coming more intimately acquainted with it^will soon be gratified at least so he has been given to vmderstandby the artist in whose hands they at present are^ with a set of views from the masterly pencil of Captain Fisher^ of the Royal British Artillery^, which are allowed by all those who had visited the Falls of Niagara^Ho convey a more perfect idea of that wonderful natural curiosity^ than any paintings or engravings that are extant. Finally^, before the Reader proceeds to the perusal of the ensuing pages^ the Author will just beg leave to apprize him^ that they are the production of a very youthful pen^ unac- customed to write a great deal^ far less to write for the press. It is now for the first time that one of its productions is ventured to be laid before the public eye. As a first attempt;, there- forCj it is humbly hoped that the present work may meet with a generous indulgence^, and not be too severely criticised on account of its nu- merous imperfections. Dublin^ 20th December, l/QS. CONTENTS VOL. L LETTER L Arrival on the Coast of America, — Trees the first Object visible.— Description of the Bay and River of Delaware, — Passengers hound for Philadelphia not siiffered to land till ex- amined by the Health Officers. — Arrival at Philadelphia. — Poor Appearance of the City from the Water, — Plan of the City, — Wharfs.— Publie and private Buildings. — Some Account of the Hospital^ and of the Gaol page 1 LETTER 11. JPopulation of Philadelphia.-^ Some Account of the Inhabitants, their Character and Man- ners. ' — Private Amusements. — -Americans lose their Teeth prematurely. — Theatrical Amusements only permitted of late, — Quakers. — Presidents Levee and Drawing Room. — Places of public Worship. -^CarriageSy what sort of used in Philadelphia. — Taverns, how conducted in America. — Difficulty of procur- ing servants. — Character ofthe lower Classes of People In America - - SO vili CONTENTS. LETTER nr. Journey to Baltimore, — Description of the Coun- try about Philadelphia. — Floating Bridges over Schuylkill, hozv constructed. — Mills in Brandy-wine Creek. — Improvement in the Machinery of Flour Mills in America, — Town of Wilmington.^Log Houses. — Bad Roads — Fine Pivspects. — How relished hy Americans.-^ Taverns. — Susquehannah Mi- ver. — Town of Baltimore. — Plan of the Town. - — Harhour. Public and private Buildings. -^Inhabitants. — Countri/ between Baltimore and Washington. — Execrable Roads - - - - page 31 L E T T E R IV. Foundation of the City of Washington. — Kot readily agreed to by different States.— Choice of the Ground left to General Washington. — Circumstances to be considered in chasing the Ground. — The Spot fixed upon, central to aU the States.-^ Also remarkably advantageously situated for trade. —Nature of the BackCoun- try Trade. — Summary View of the principal Trading Towns in the United States. — Their prosperity shewn to depend on the Back Coun- try Trade. — Description of the Patowmac River.-^Iis Connection with other Rivers pointed out. — Prodigious Extent of the Wa- ter Communication from IVashington City in ■ al! Directions. — Country likely to Trade im^ CONTENTS. it mediately zvith Washington. — Situation of Washington. — Plan of the City. — Public Buildings.— Some hegiin, others })roJected. — Capitol, — PresidenfsHouse. — Hotel, — St07ie and other huilding-JMaterials found in tlie Neighbourhood. — Private Houses and Inha- bitants at present in the City, — Different Opi- nio7is respecting the future Greatness of the City. — Impediments tkroivn in the way of its Improvement. — What has given Rise to this • - . - - page 49 LETTER V. Some Account of Alexandria. — Mount Vernon, the Seat of General Wasliington. — Difficulty offnding the Way thither through the Woods. — Description of the Motility and of the Hews from it. — Description of the House and Grounds, — Slaves at Mount Vernon.— Thoughts thereon. — A Person at Mount Ver- non to attend to Strangers.- — Return to WassJi" ington - ' - - - 90 LETTER VL Arrival at Philadelphia. — Some ObservatiGns on the Climate of the Middle Slates.— Public Carriages prevented from plying hetiveen Bal- timore and Philadelphia by the Badness of tlie Roads. — Left Baltimore during Frost.— Met with American Travellers on tlie Road. — - Their Behaviour preparatory to setting off i CONTENTS* from an Inn. -^Arrival on the Banks of the Susquchannah, — Passage of that River rvheu frozen over, — Dangerous Situation of the Passengers. — American Tramllers at the Tavern on the opposite Side of the River. — Their noisij Disputations - - page 96 LETTER VIL Philadelphia gayer in the Winter than at any other Season.— ^Celebration in that City of General Washington's Birth Day. — Some Account of General Washington's Person and of his Character. — Americans dissatisfied with his Conduct as President. — A Spirit of Dissatisfaction common amongst them 104 LETTER VIIL Singular Mildness of the Winter of 1795-6, — Set out for Lancaster. — Turnpike Road be- tween that Place and Philadelphia.— Sum- mary View of the State of Pennsylvania.— Description of the Farms between Lancaster and Philadelphia. — The Farmers live in a penurious Style. — Greatly inferior to English Farmers. — Bad Taverns on this Road. — Waggons and Waggoners. — Customs of the latter. — Description of Lancaster. — lately made the Scat of the State Government. — Manufactures carried on there. — Rife Guns, '^Great Dexterity with which the Americans use them. — Anecdote of two Virginian Sol- diers belonging to a Rijie Regiment 109 CONTENTS. LETTER IX. Number of Germans in the Neighbourhood of York and Lancaster. — How brought over,— White- Slave Trade, — Cruelty freciuentln prac- tised in the carrying it on. — Character of the German Settlers contrasted with that of the Americans. — ^Passage of the Susquehmnah ietvoeen York and Lancaster. — Great Beauty of the Prospects along the Rioer.-*--Descrip- tion of York. — Courts of Justice there. — Of the Permsylvanian System of Judicature. LETTER X. Of the Country near York. Of the Soil of the Country on each Side of the Blue Alouniains, ^Frede^'iC'town. — Change in the Lihabitants and in the Country as you proceed towards the Sea. — JV^umber of Slaves. — Tobacco ehiefiy cultivated. — Inqidsitiveness of the People at the Taverns.— -Observations thereon. — Description of the Great Falls of the Pa- towmac River. — George Town. — Of the Country between that Place and Hoe's Ferry, -^Poisonous Vines. — Port Tobacco.- Wretched Appearance of the Country border- ing upon the Ferry. — Slaves neglected. — Passage of the Patoimnac very dangerous. — • Fresh Water Oysters. — Landed on a deserted Part of the Virginian Shore. — Great Hospi- tality of the Virginians. - - 131 CONTENTS. L K T T E R XL Of the Korrncrn Neck of Virp^inia. — First settled bijthe EnglisJi. — Houses built hi/ them remain- ing. — Disparitij of Condition amongst the In- habitants. — Estates worked by Negroes.— Condition of the Slaves. — Worse in the Caro- Unas. — Lands worn out by Cidtivation of To- bacco. — Mode of cultivating and curing To- bacco. — Houses in Virginia. — Tlioseof Wood 'preferred. — Lower Classes of People in Vir- ginia, — Their unhealtliy Appearance, p. 145 LETTER XIL Toxm of Tappahannock. — Rappahannock JRi~ ver. — Sharks found in it, — Country border - ing upon Urbanna. — Fires common in the Woods. — Manner of stopping their dreadful Progress. — Mode of getting Turpentine from Trees. — Gloucester. — York Town. — Remains of the Fortifications erected here during the American war. — Houses shattered by Balls still remaining. — Cave in the Bank of the Ri- ver. — Williamsburgh. — State House in Ruins. —Statue of Lord Bottetourt— College of WU- Ham and Mary. — Condition of the Students. LETTER XIIL Hampton. — Ferry to Norfolk. — Danger in crossing the numerous Ferries in Virginia.— No J folk. — Laws of Virginia injurious to the Trading inter est. -^Streets narrow and dirty CONTENTS, Xiii in Norfolk. — Yellow Fever there. — Ohserva- tioiis on this disorder. — Violent Party Spirit amongst the Inhabitants, — Few Churches in Virginia. — Several in Ruins. — Private Grave Yards. - - - page IC9 LETTER XIV. Description of Dismal Swamp. — Wild Men found in it. Bears J, Wolves J ^c. — -Country hetzveen Swamp and Richmond. *^Mode of making Tar and Pitch. — Poor Soil. — Wretched Taverns.^ Corn Bread. — Dijfi-- cvlty of getting Food for Horses. — Peters^ hurgh. — Horse Races there. — Description of Virginian Horses. — Stile of Riding in Ame- rica. '^Description of Riclmond, Capital of Virginia.— ^Singular Bridge aci'oss James River. — State House. — Falls of James River. — Gambling common in Richmond.^ Lower Classes of People very qiiafrelsome. — Their Mode of Fighting. — Gouging. 178 LETTER XV. Description of Virginia between Richmond and the Mountains. — Fragrance of Flowers and Shrubs in the Woods.— 3Ielody of the Birds. — Of the Birds of Virginia. — Mocking Bird — Blue Bird — Red Bird, ^c. — Singidar JS'^oises of the Frogs. — Columbia. — Magazine there. — Fire Flies in the Woods, — Green Springs. — Wretchedness of the Accommoda- tion there.— Difficulty of finding the Way Xiv CONTENTS. througli the Woods. — Serpents— Rattle Snake — Copper Snake — Black Snake, — South-west, or Green Mount aim, -^Soil oftliern. — Moun- tain Torrents do great Damage, — Saliihrity of the Climate, ^Gr eat Beautij of the Pea- santry. — Many Gentlemen of Property living here, — Monticello, the Seat of j\'^r. Jefferson, — ^Vineyards.-— Observations on tlie Culture of the Grape, and the Mamfacturc of Wine. . - - page 193 LETTER XVL Of the Co untry betiveen th e South-west and Blue Mountains. — Copper and Iron Mines.' — Lyncliburgh, — New London.^ — Armory here. ^Description of the Road over the Blue Mountains, — Peaks of Otter, highest of the Mountains, — Supposed Height- — Much over-- rated, — German Settlers numerous beyond the Blue Mountains, — Singular Contrast between the Country and the Inhabitants on each Side of the Mountains. — Of the Weevil, — Of the Hessian Fly. — Bottetourt County,- — Its Soil. — Salubrity of the Climate. — Medicinal Springs here — -Much frequented. - 209 LETTER XVII. Description of the celebrated Rockbridge, and of an immense Cavern. — Description of the Shenandoah Valley .—hihabitants mostly Ger- mans,^Soil and Climate. -^Observations on contents; American Landscapes. -^Mode ofculting doKu Trees, — High Road to Kentucky, ieliind Blue Mountains. — Much frequented. — Uncouth, in- quisitive People. — Lexington.^ Staunton.-^ Military Titles very common in America, — • Causes thereof.-^ Winchester. page 220 LETTER XVIIL Description of the Passage of Patowmac and Shenandoah Rivers through a Break in the Blue Mountains." — Some Observations on Mr. Jefferson's Account of the Scene, — Summary Account of Maryland. — Arrival at Phila- delphia. — Remarks on the Climate of the United States. — State of the City of Phila- delphia during the Heat of Suinmer. — Diffi- culty of preserving Butter, Milk, Meat, Fishy 8^c. — General Use of Ice. — Of the Wi7ids. — State of Weather in America de^ pends greatly upon them. ' - 239 LETTER XIX. Travelling in America without a Companion not pleasant.- — Meet two English Gentlemen. — - Set out together for Canada.— Description of the Country hetween Philadelphia and New York. — Bristol.— Trenton. — Princeton. — * College there. — Soine Account of it.— Bruns- wick. --^Posaik Water-fall. — Copper Mine. Manners of the . Inhabitants. — Leave it (ihruptly on Account of the Fevers.— Passage Xvi CONTENTS, up North Biver from Neio York to Alhamj. — Great Beauty of the North River, ^Wesi Point, — Highlands. — Gusts of Wind com- mon in passing them.^ Albany . — Descrip- tion of the City and Inhabitants, — Celebra- tion of the 4th of July. — Anniversary of American Independance, LETTER XX. Departure from Albany. — Difficulty of hiring a Carriage. — Arrival at Cohoz. — DescriptioTt of the curious Fall there of the Mohawk Biver. — Still-water. — Saratoga. — Few of the Works remaining there. — Singular Mine- ral Springs near Saratoga. — Fort Edward. — Miss M'Crea cruelly murdered there by Indians. — Fort Anu, wretched Road thither. — So7ne Observations on the American Woods. — Horses jaded. — Difficulty of getting for- ward.— ^Arrive at Skenesborough. — Dread- fully infested by Musquitoes. — Particular Description of that Insect. — Great Danger ensues sometimes from their Bite. ~ Best Remedy. LETTER XXL Embark on Lake Champlain. — Difficulty of procuring Provisions at Farms bordering upon it. — Ticonderoga. — Crown Point. — — Singular Discovery thereof — New- York. ^Description of the City .--Chrie hundred and twenty miles from the sea, one mile wide. The shores of the bay and of the river De- laware^ for a very considerable distance up- wards, are low; and they are covered, like the coast, with one vast forest, excepting merely in a few places, where extensive marshes intervene. Nothing, however, could be more pleasing than the views with which we were entertained as we sailed up to Philadel- phia. The trees had not yet quite lost their foliage, and the rich red and yellow tints which autumn had suffused over the leaves of the oaks and poplars appeared beautifully blended with the sombre green of the lofty pines ; whilst the river, winding slowly and smoothly along under the banks, reflected in its glassy surface the varied colours of the objects oa shore, as well as the images of multitudes of vessels of various sizes, which, as far as the eye could reach, w^ere seen gliding silently along with the tide. As you approach to- wards Philadelphia the banks of the river be- come more elevated ; and on the left hand side, where they are much cleared, they are interspersed with numberless neat farm-houses^ with villages and towns; and are in som^ parts cultivated dowji to the very edge of the water. The New Jersey shore, on the right 4 TR.WBES THROUGH NORTH AMERICA I hand Bide, remains thickly wooded^ even as far as the citv. Vessels very commonly ascend to Philadel- phia, when the wind is favourable^ in twenty- four hours ; but unfortunately^ as our ship en- tered the river, the wind died away, and she had to depend solely upon the tide, which flows at the rate of about three miles only in the hour. Finding that the passage up to the city was likely therefore to become tedious, I would fain have gone on shore far below it ; but thi$ the captain would not permit me to do. :,By the^laws of Pennsylvania, enacted in consequence of the dreadful pestilence which raged jn the capital in the year 1793, the inaster of any vessel bound for that port is made siibject , to a very heavy fine, if he suffers any person from on board her, whether mariner or passenger^ to go on shore in any part of the state, before his vessel is examined by the health officer: and any person that goes on shore, contrary to the will of the master of the vessel, is liable to be imprisoned for a consi- derable length of time. In case the existence of this law should not be known on board a vessel bound for a port in Pennsylvania, it is the business of the pilot to furnish the master and the passengers on board with copies of it,^ with which he always comes provided. The 2 PHILADELPHIA. 5 licaith officer^ who is a regular bred physician, resides at Mifflin Fort, four miles below the city, where there is a small garrison kept. A boat is always sent on shore for him from the ship. After having been tossed about on the ^cean for nine weeks nearly, nothing could be more tantalizing than to be kept thus close to the shore without being permitted to land. Philadelphia, as you approach by the river, is not seen farther off than three miles^ a point of land covered with trees concealing it from the view. On weathering this point it sud- denly opens upon you, and at that distance it looks extremely well ; but on a nearer ap- proach, the city makes a poor appearance, as nothing is visible from the water but confused heaps of wooden storehouses, crowded upon each other, the chief of which are built upon platforms of artificial ground, and wharfs which project a considerable way into the river. The wharfs are of a rectangular form, and built of wood ; they jut out in every direction, and are well adapted for the accommodation of shipping, the largest merchant vessels being able to lie close alongside them. Behind these wharfs, and parallel to the river, runs Water- street. This is the first street which you usu- ally enter after landing, and it does not serve to give a stranger a very favourable opinion either of the neatness or commodiousness of 6 TRATELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: the public ways of Philadelphia. It is no more than thirty feet wide ; and immediately behind the houses^ which stand on the side far- thest from the water^ a high bank, supposed to be the old bank of the river, rises, which renders the air very confined. Added to this, such stenches at times prevail in it, owing in part to the quantity of filth and dirt that is suffered to remain on the pavement, and in part to what is deposited in waste houses, of which there are several in the street, that it is really dreadful to pass through it. It was here that the malignant yellow fever broke out in the year 1793, which made such terrible ra- vages; and in the summer season, in general, the street is found extremely unhealthy. That the inhabitants, after suffering so much from the sickness that originated in it, should re- main thus inattentive to the cleanliness of Water-street is truly surprising ; more espe-. cially so^ when it is considered, that the streets in the other parts of the town are as much distinguished for the neatness that prevails throughout them, as this one is for its dirty condition. On" the level plot of ground on the top of the bank which rises behind Water-street, the city of Philadelphia was originally laid out^ ^nd it was inteaded by the founder that no houses should have bqen erected ^t the botto5a PHILADELPHIA. 7 •f it ; however as there v as no positive law to this effect^ the conveuience of the situation soon tempted numbers to build there, and they are now encroaching anriually on the river^ by throwing wharfs farther out into the* stream. In another respect also the ongiaal plan of the city was not adhered to. The ground allotted for it was in the form of an oblong square^ two miles in length, reaching from the river Schuylkill to the Delaware^ and one mile in breadth. Pursuant to this scheme, the houses were begun on the Delaware side ; but instead of having been carried on towards the Schuylkill, the current of building has kept entirely on one side. The houses extend for two miles nearly along the Delaware, but, on an average, not more than half a mile to- wards the Schuylkill : this is to be attributed to the great superiority of the one river over the other. All the houses built beyond the boundary line of the oblong square are said to be in the Liberties,'' as the jurisdiction of the corporation does not extend to that part of the town. Here the streets are very ir- regularly built ; but in the city they all in- tersect each other at right angles, according to the original plan. The priacipal street is one hundred feet wide ; the others vary from eighty to fifty. They are all tolerably well paved with pebble stones in the middle ; and 10 S TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : on each side^ for the convenience of passen- gers^ there is a footway paved with red brick. The houses within the limits of the city are for the most part buiit of brick ; a few^, and a few ooly^ are of wood. In the old parts of the tow^n they are in general small^ heavy, and inconvenient ; but^ amongst those which have been lately erected, many are to be found that are lights airy^ and commodious. In the whole city, however, there are onl}^ two or three houses that parti- cularly attract the attention, on account of their size and architecture, and but little beauty is observable in the designs of any of these. The most spacious and the most remarkable one amongst them stands in Chesnut-streetj, but it is not yet quite finished. At present it appears a huge mass of red brick and pale blue marble, which bids defiance to simplicity and elegance. This superb mansion, according to report, has already cost upwards of fifty thousand guineas, and stands as a monument of the increasing luxury of the city of Phila- delphia. As for the public buildings, they are all heavy tasteless piles of -red brick, ornamented with the same sort of blue marble as that al- ready mentioned, and which but ill accord together, unless indeed we except the new Bank of the United States, and the presby- PHILADELPHIA. 9 terian church in High-street. Thee latter building is ornamented with a handsome por^ tico in fronts supported by six pillars in the Corinthian order ; but it is seen to great disad- vantage on account of the market house^ which occupies the centre of the street before it. The buildings nex:t to these, that are most deserving of notice, are the State House, the President's House, the Hospital, the Bettering House, and the Gaol. The State House is situated in Ghesnut- street; and, considering that no more than fifty-three years elapsed from the time the first cabin was built on the spot marked out for the cit}^, until it was erected, the archi- tecture calls forth both our surprise and ad- miration. The State House is appropriated to the use of the legislative bodies of the state. Attached to this edifice are the congress and the city-halls. In the former, the congress of the United States meet to transact bu- siness. The room allotted to the represen- tatives of the lower house is about sixty feet in length, and fitted up in the plainest manner. At one end of it is a gallery, open to every person that chuses to enter it ; the stair-case leading to which runs directly from the pub- lic street. The senate chamber is in the story above this, and it is furnished and fitted pp in a much superior style to that of the 10 TRAVELS THROUGg[I NORTH AMERICA: lower house. In the city-hall the courts of justice are held^, the supreme court of the United States^ as well as that of the state of Pennsylvania, and those of the city. The president's house, as it is called^ was erected for the residence of the president^ before the removal of the seat of the federal govern-- ment from Philadelphia was agitated. The original plan of this building was drawn by a private gentleman, resident in the neighbour- hood of Philadelphia, and w as possessed, it is said, of no small share of merit; but the com- mittee of citizens, that was appointed to take the plan into consideration, and to direct the building, conceiving that it could be im- pKOved upon, reversed the positions of the up- per and lower stories, placing the latter at top^ so that the pilasters, with which it is orna- mented, appear suspended in the air. The committee also contrived, that the windows of the principal apartments, instead of opening into a spacious area in front of the house, as was designed at first, should face towards the confined back yards of the adjoining houses* This building is not y^t finished, and as the removal of the seat of government to the fe- deral city of Washington is so shortly to take place, it is most probable that it will never be occupied by the president. To what pur- pose it will be now applied is yet undeter- PHILADELPHIA. 11 mined. Some iiiiagiue, that it will be con- verted into a city botel ; others^ tliat it will be destined for the residence of the governor of the state. For the latter purpose, it would be unfit in the extreme, the salary of the governor being so inconsiderable, that it would not en- able him to kee wing and a part of the. centre are finished ; but the rest of the building is in a state of forwardness. It is two stories high, and underneath the whole are cells for lunatics. Persons labouring under any disorder of body or mind are received into this hospital, excepting such as have diseases that are contagious, and of a malignant na- ture ; such patients, however, have the advice of the attending physicians gratis, and are sup- plied with medicine from the hospital dis-^ pensary. The productive stock of this hospital, in the year 1793, was estimated at 17,055/. currency ; iiesidcs wllich there are estates belonging to \t 1"2 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : that as yet produce nothing. The same year^ the legislature granted lO^OOOZ. for enlarging the buildings and adding thereto a Lying-in and Foundling hospital. The annual private donations are very considerable. Those that contribute a certain sum have the povs^er of electing the directors^ who are twelve in num- ber^ and chosen yearly. The directors appoint six of the most skilful^ surgeons and physicians in the city to attend; there is also a surgeon and apothecary resident in the house. From the year 1756;, when it was built., to the year 1793 inclusive, nearly 9,000 patients were ad- mitted into this hospital, upwards of 6,000 of whom were relieved or cured. The hos- pital stands within the limits of the city,, but it is more than a quarter of a mile removed from any of the other buildings. There are spacious walks within the inclosure for such of the patients as are in a state of conva- lescence. The Bettering House, which is imder the care of the overseers of the poor, stands in the same neighbourhood, somewhat farther re- moved from the houses of the city. It is a spacious building of brick, with extensive walks and gardens. The poor of the city and neighbourhood are here furnished with em- ployment, and comfortably lodged and dieted. During the severity of the winter season, many PHILADELPHIA. 13 a^ed and reduced persons seek refuge in this place^, and leave it again on the return of spring. Whilst they stay there^ they are un- der very little restraint^ and go in and out when they please ; they niust^ however, behave or- derly. This institution is supported by a tax on the town. The gaol is a spacious building of common stone^ one hundred feet in front. It is fitted up with solitary cells, on the new plan, and the apartments are all arched, to prevent the communication of fire. Behind the building are extensive yards, which are secured by lofty walls. This gaol is better regulated, perhaps, than any other on the face of the globe. By tlie new penal laws of Pennsylvania, lately enacted, no crime is punishable w^ith death, excepting murder of the first degree, by which is meant, murder that is perpetrated by wilful preme- ditated intention, or in attempts to commit rape, robbery, or the like. Every other of- fence, according to its enormity, is punished by solitary imprisonment of a determined du- ration. Objections may be made to this mode of punishment, as not being sufficiently severe on the individual to atone for an atrocious crime ; nor capable, because not inflicted in public, of deterring evil*minded persons in the commvmity from the commission of offences which incur the rigour of the law ; but on a 14 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA t close examination^ it will be found to be very severe ; and as far as an opinion can be formed from the trial that has been hitherto made by the state of Pennsylvania^ it seems better cal-- Ciliated to restrain the excesses of the people than any other. If any public punishment could strike terror into the lawless part of the multitude^ it is as likely that the infliction of death would do it as any whatsoever : but death is divested of many of liis terrors, after being often presented to our view; so that we find in countries^ for instatite in England/ where it occurs oftt^n as punishment^ the sa- lutary efibcts that niight be expected from it are in a great measure lost. The unfortunate wTctch^ who is doomed to forfeit his life in expiation of the crimes he has committed, in numberless instances looks forward with ap~ parent unconcern to the moment in which he is to be iaunclied into eternity; his compa-- nions around him only condole with him^ be- cause his career of iniquity has so suddenly been impeded by the course of justice: or^ if he is not too much hardened in the paths of vice^ but falls a prey to remorse^ and sees all the horrors of his impending fate^ they endea- vour to rally his broken spirits by the con- soling remembrance, that the pangs he has to endure are but the pangs of a moment, which they illustrate by the speedy exit of one whose PHILADELPHIA. 15 death he was perhaps himself witness to bii£ a few weeks before. A month does not pass over in England without repeated executions ; and there is scarcely a vagabond to be met with in the country, who has not seen a fellow creature suspended from the gallows. We all know what little good effect such spectacles produce. But immured in darkness and so- litude^ the prisoner suffers pangs worse than death a hundred times in the day : he is left to his own bitter reflections; there is no one thing to divert his attention^, and he endeavours in vain to escape from the horrors which con^ tinually haunt his imagination. In such a si- tuation the most hardened offender is soon re- duced to a state of repentance. But punishment by imprisonment^, accorduig to the laws of Pennsylvania^ is imposed^ not only as an expiation of past offences,, and an example to the guilty part of society;, but for another purpose^, regarded by few penal codes in the world, thcvreform of the criminal. The regulations of the gaol^, are calculated to promote this effect as soon as possible, so that the building, indeed, deserves the name of a penitentiary house more than that of a gaol. soon as a criminal is committed to tlie pri- son he is made to wash ; his hair is shorn; and if not decently clothed, be is furaislied with clean apparel ; then he is thrown into a so- 16 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA t litary cell^ about nine feet long and four wide, where he remains debarred from the sight of every living being excepting his gaoler^ whose duty it is to attend to the bare necessities of his nature, but who is forbidden, on any ac- count^ to speak to him without there is ab- solute occasion. If a prisoner is at all refrac- tory, or if the offence for which he is impri- soned is of a very atrocious nature, he is then confined in a cell secluded even from the light of heaven. This is the worst that can be in- flicted upon him. The gaol is inspected twice every week by twelve persons appointed for that purpose, who are chosen annually from amongst the citizens of Philadelphia. Nor is it a difficult matter to procure these men, who readily and voluntarily take it upon them to go through the troublesome functions of the office with- out any fee or emolument whatever. They divide themselves into committees ; each of these takes it in turn, for a stated period, to visit every part of the prison ; and a report is made to the inspectors at large, who meet to- gether at times regularly appointed. From the report of the committee an opinion is formed by the inspectors, who, with the con- sent of the judges, regulate the treatment of each individual prisoner during his confine- ment. This is varied according to his crime^ PHILADELPHIA. 17 and according, to his sul^s^quent repentance. Solitary confinement in a ;d^rk cell is looked upon ;as the seyefjest i^age ; iiext, solitary con- finement in a cell with tlie arlmission of Jigiit ; nextj confiriernent ill a.fieU tbe prisoner is allowed to do some jspft of work ; lastly, labour in company with others/ The pri-- soners are obliged to bathe twice every ^veek, proper conveniences for tliat purpose being; provided within the walls of the prison ; and also to change their linen^ with which they are regularly provided. Those in solitary confinem^^nt are kept upon bread and water ; but those who labour aYe allow ed broth^ por^ ridge, puddings^ and the like; meat is dis- pensed only in small quantities^ twice in the week. Their driak is water ; on no pretence is any other beverage suffered to be brought into the prison. This diet is found;, by expe-- j-ience, tp. afford the prisoners strength sufficient to perform t|ie labour that is imposed upon them 'w4ier^as uiore ; generous one would only serve to read.er ih^ir mind^ less humbly ^nd guhmjssive. Tho^e > Avho labour/^ jire ^mpjoyed in the paji:iculai: trade to whi^li tliey h^iye beer^ accus^^me^j provid^jd it can be carried in the prison ; ^i'not acquainted with any> something is; sooii f<;)und;ithi^t tl]^y can do. One room is set apart far .shoe- juakers^ another for taylo^'a, a third for, c^r- VOL. I, C 1$ TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: pcnters^ and so on ; and in the yards are stone- cutters^ smiths^ nailers^ &c. &c. Excepting the cells^ which are at a remote patrt of the buildings the prison has the ap- pearance of a large manufactory. Good order and decency prevail throughout^ and the eye of a spectator is never assailed by the sight of such ghastly and squalid figures as are continually to be met with in our prisons ; so far^ also, is a visitor from being insulted, that he is scarcely noticed as he passes through the different wards. The prisoners are forbidden to speak to each other without there isnecessity; they are also forbidden to laugh, or to sing, or to make the smallest disturbance. An overseer attends continually to see that every one performs his work diligently; and in case of the smallest resistance to any of the regulations, the offender is immediately cast into a solitary cell, to sub- sist on bread and water, till he returns to a proper sense of his behaviour ; but the dread all those have of this treatment, who have once experienced it, is such, that it is seldom found necessary to repeat it. The women are kept totally apart from the men^ and are employed in a manner suitable to thieir sex. The labourers all eat together in one large apartment ; and regularly every Sunday there is^ divine service, at which all attend. It is the duty of the chaplairi to converse at times ?HILAI^ELt»HIA. 19 With the prisoners^ and endeavour to reform their minds and principles. The inspectors, when they visit the prison^ also do the same ; so that when a prisoner is liberated, he goes out, as it were, a new man ; he has been ha- bituated to employment, and has received good instructions. The greatest care is also taken to find him employment the moment he quits the place of his confinement. Accord- ing to the regulations, no person is allowed to visit the prison without permission of the inspectors. The greatest care is also taken to preserve the health of the prisoners, and for those who are sick there are proper apart- ments and good advice provided. The longest period of confinement is for a rape, which is not to be less than ten years, but not to exceed twenty-one.- For high treason, the length of confinement is not to be less than six nor more than twelve years. There are prisons in every country throughout Pennsyl- vania, but none as yet are established on the same plan as that which has b<3en described. Criminals are frequently sent from other partk ofthe state to receive punishment in the pri- son of Philadelphia. So well is this gaol conducted that, instead of being an expence, it now annually produces a considerable revenue to the state, c2 so TKA VELS THEOtCH .NOR^H AMERICA ? ' t"E T T il R JL 'Population pf F}Uladelp}iiar--Some Accomt of 'the InhnUtanis^ their Qhwacter and .iMan- : nevs, T^ JPrivcUe Amusements. — Amdricans : , loM their Teeth premnturdy,-^ Theatrical Amusements oMi/p^rm : . — -President'^ Levee arid Drawing Room, — - Places of 'ptiblic Worship. — Carriages; what . sort of, medin Philadelphia. — Taverns,. how conducted in America.'^Dffficidti/ ofprocur-- ing swr^mtf.-^Charmitr ofthe hnver Classes - 0f People im'i4me!)iica^i A - PHILADELPHIA, axcmdiug to the census fekcQ. tiie; ji3ar 11^^ contained 42,000 people. ' Etom the nsfitiii^l: increase, howeyer, " of;populalion,;and the trtliux of strangers, the HQumbet! is siaipposEd »ow tO) be near 50^,000^ 'natwitltstanding tlie -rivages of the yeltow fevfeir inb 179^, whick' iwi^pttoft' 4,000 pe<>ple> cThe lijilia^bitmits eonsiis«b -i>f- .Eogli;s^^^ 3<^tebj Qer^tt4 Fienql;!," apd of American born citizens^j descended from people of these diffcvmt miiQmy y^^ course by far ithe most-nuniierwii .clyigft. inhabitants are for the most' p^ri etigiige4 in gome sojct of business ; a few, and a few only^, live witfe- PHILADELPHIA. 2i out any ostensible professions, on the fortunes which they themselves have raised ; bvit these men are not idle or inattentive to the increase of their property, being eT^r on the watch to profit by the sale of lands, which they have purchased, and to buy more on advantageous terms. It w^ould be a difficult matter to find a man of any property in the couniiry, who is not concerned in the buying or selling of land^ which may be considered in America as an article of trade. In a large city, like Philadelphia, where people are assembled together from so many different quarters, there cannot fail to be a great diversity in the manners of the inhabit- ants. It is a remark, however, very generally made, not only by foreigners, but also by per- sons from other parts of the United States^ that the Philadelphians are extremely defi- cient in hospitality and politeness towards strangers. Ansoiigst the uppermost circles in Philadelphia, pride, haughtiness, and ostenta^ tion arc conspicuous; and it seems as if nothing could make them happier thari that an order of nobility should be established, by which they might be exalted above their fellow-ci- tizens, as much as they are in their own con-^ ceit. In the manners of the people in general there is a coldness and reserve, as if they were suspicious of some designs against them^ which 22 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : chills to the very heart those who come to visit them. In their private societies a tristesse is apparent^ pear which mirth and gaiety can never approach. It is no unusual things in the genteelest houses^ to see a large party of from twenty to thirty persons assembled, and seated round a room, without partaking of any other amusement than what arises from the corn er^ sation, most frequently in whispers, that passes between the two persons who are seated next to each other. The party meets between six and seven in the evening ; teq, is served with much form ; and at ten, by which time mo^t of the company are wearied with having re- mained so long stationary, they return to their own homes. Still, however, they are not strangers tp music, cards, or dancing ; their knowledge of music, indeed, is at a very low ebb; but in dancing, which appears to be their moat favourite amusement, they certainly excel. The women, in general, whilst young, are very pretty ; but by the time they become mo^ thers of a little family they lose all their beauty, their complexions fade away, their teeth begin to decay, and they hardly appear like the same creatures. In a few instances only it >vould be possible to find a fine woman of the age of forty, who has had a large family. The sud- den decay of the teeth, is a circumstance which PHILADELPHIA, 2S has engaged the attention of the faculty ; both men and women^, American born^ losing them very generally at an early age. Some ascribe it to the great and sudden changes in the wea- ther from heat to cold ; but negroes^ who are ex- posed to the same transition of climate^ are dis- tinguished for the whiteness and beauty of their teeth ; and the Indians also^ who are more ex- posed than either, preserve their teeth in good order. Others attribute it to the immoderate use of confectionary. Of confectionary^ the Americans in the towns certainly make aa inordinate use; but in the country, where the people have not an opportunity of get- ting such things, the men, but more gene- rally the women, also lose their teeth very prematurely. Most probably it is owing to the very general use they make of salted pro- visions. In the country parts of America in particular, the people live upon salted pork and salted fish nearly the whole year round. It is only within a few years past, since 1779, that any public amusements have been suffered in this city; the old corporation^ which consisted mostly of the Quakers, and not of the most liberal minded people in the city, having always opposed the establishment of any place for the purpose. Now, however^ there are two theatres and an amphitheatre, Little or no \ise is made of the old theatre, 24 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : which is of Wood^, and a very indifferent build- ing. The new one is built of brick,, and neatly fitted up within; but it is hardly large enough for the town. A shocking custom obtains here of smoking tobacco in the house^ which at time^ is carried to such an excess, that those to whom it is disagreeable are under the necessity of going away. To the people in the pit wine and porter are brought between the acts,, precisely as if they were in a tavern. The actors are procured^ with a very few exceptions^ from Great Britain and Ireland ; none of them are very eminent per- formers^ but they are equal to what are usually met with in the country towns of England, The amphitheatre is built of wood ; equestrian and other exercises are perform- ed there^ similar to those at Astley's. Dan- cing assemblies are held regularly every fort- night through the wiater,, and occasionally there are public concerts. During summer^, the people that can make it convenient retire to country houses in the neighbourhood of the town^ and all public and private amusements cease ; winter is the season for them^ the Congress being then as- sembled^ and trade being: so closelv attended fo^ as the navigation of the river is then com- monly impeded by ice. The president finds it' necessary, in general. PHILADELPHIA. 23 to come to Philadelphia preparatory to the meeting of congress^ and resides there during the whole of the session. Once in the week^ during his stay in the city^ he has levees^ be- tween the hours of three and four in the after- noon. At these he always appears himself ia a court dress, and it is expected that the foreign ministers should always attend in the same style ; this they constantly do^, excepting the French minister^ who makes a point of going in a dishabille^ not to say worse of it. Other persons are at liberty to go as they think pro-^ per. Mrs. Washington also has a drawing room once every week. On this occasion the ladies are seated in great form round the apart- ment, and tea^ coffee^ &c. served^. Philadelphia is the grand residence of the Quakers in America,, but their number does not bear the same proportion now to that of the other citizens whicli it did formerly. At present they form about one fourth only of the inhabitants. This does not arise from any di- minution of the number of quakers^ on the contrary they have considerably increased^ but ^ Whether the levee is kept up by the present presidentjj or not^ I have not heard. Many objections were made to it by the democratic party during the administration of Gene- ral Yv^ashingtoD;, as beh ig inconsistent with the spirit of a re- publican government, and destructive of that equality which ought to reign amongst the citizens of every class. 26 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : from the great influx into the city of per- sons of a different persuasion. Belonging io the Quakers there are five places for public wor- ship ; to the Presbyterians and Seceders six ; to the English Episcopalians three ; to Ger- man Lutherans two ; to the Roman Catholics four; and one respectively to the Swedish Lutherans, Moravians^ Baptists, Universal Baptists, Methodists, and Jews. On a Sun- day every citizen appears well dressed ; the lower classes of the people in particular are remarkably well clothed. This is a great day also for little excursions into the coun- try, • The carriages made use of in Philadelphia consist of coaches, chariots, chaises, coachees, and light waggons, the greater part of which are built in Philadelphia. The equipages of a few individuals are extremely ostentatious ; nor does there appear in any that neatness and elegance which might be expected amongst a set of people that are desirous of imitating the fashions of England, and that are continually getting models over from that country. The ct^achee is a carriage peculiar, I believe, to America ; the body of it is rather longer than that of a coach, but of the same shape. In the front it is left quite open down to the bottom, and the driver sits on a bench under the roof of the carriage. There are PHILADELPHIA. WI two seats in it for the passengers^ who sit with their faces towards the horses. The roof i$ supported by small props, which are placed at the corners. On each side of the doors^ above the pannels^ it is quite open, and to guard against bad weather there are curtains, which are made to let down from the roof, and fasten to buttons placed for the purpose on the outside. There is also a leathern curtain to hang occasionally between the driver and passengers. The light waggons are on the same con- struction, and are calculated to accommodate from four to twelve people. The only differ- ence between a small waggon and a coachee is, that the latter is better finished, has varnish- ed pannels, and doors at the side. The for- mer has no doors, but the passengers scramble in the best w ay they can, over the seat of the driver. The waggons are used universally for stage carriages. The accommodations at the taverns, by which name they call all inns, &c. are very indifferent in Philadelphia, as indeed they are, with a very few^ exceptions, throughout the country. The mode of conducting them is laearly the same every where The traveller is shewn, on arrival, into a room which is common to every person in the house, and which is generally the one set apart for 2S TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : breakfast^ dinner, and supper. All the stran- gers that happen to be in the house sit down to these meals promiscuously^ and/ excepting in the large towns, the family of the house also forms a part of the company. It is seldom that a private parlour or drawing room can be procured at anj^ of the taverns, even in the towns ; and it is always with reluctance that breakfast or dinner is served up separately to ^ny individual. If a single bed-room can be procured, more ought not to be looked for ; ^ but it is not always that even this is to be had^ and those who travel through the countrv must often submit to be crammed into rooms where (here is scarcely sufficient space to walk between the beds*. Strangers who remain for any length of time in the large towns most usually go to private boarding houses, of which great num=- bers are to be met with. It is always a diffi- cult matter to procure furnished lodgings with- out paying for board. At all the taverns, both in town and country^ but particularly in the latter, the attendance ^ Having stopped one night at Elkton, on my journey to Baltimore in the public carriage, my first enquiries from the landlord, on alighting, as there were many passengers in the stage, were to know what accommodation his house afforded. He seemed much surprized that any enquiries should be made on siicha subject, and with much consequence told me, I need not give myself much trouble about the extent of my accommo- dztionsj as he had no less than eleven beds in one of hi? rooms.* PHILADELPHIA. 29 is very bad;; indeed, excepting in the southern states, wlier^ there are such great numbers of negroes, it is a matter of the utmost difficulty to procure domestic servants of any description. The generality of servants that are met with in Philadelphia are emigrant Europeans ; they^ however^ for the most part^ only remain in ser- vice until they can save a little money, when they constantly quit their masters, being led to do so by that desire for independence which is so np^tural to the mind of man, and which every person in America may enjoy that .will be imlustrious. '^jie few that remain steady to th^se who have hired them are retain^ ed at most; es^orbitant \^ag^BSvK As for the A;me- ricans, nbnebut thpse^^f the most indifferent characters evep: enter into' jservice, which /they jConsider only to negroes* the ne- groes agaia, Penn,sylvEii,iia p^od in other states ,where stepg have been ^ takeiji for the gradual abolition of ^Iwery^ areitaijghii;^ Quakers to look upo^i themsiel;¥as in teyery respect equal to thei^'wllite brertrl3ijen> and they ende^ir your to imitate them by l?eftijig saucy . It is the same both ? with males aijd temaies. I must here observe> that amo2igst/ th'3 generality of the lower :§ort of people -in the United States, ^nd particwlarly amongst th(>se of Philadelphia^ there is a want of good manners which excites the surprize of almost every foreigner ; I wish 30 TRAVELS THROUGri NORTH AMERICA : also that it may not be thought that this re* mark has been made^ merely because the same deference and the same respectful attention, which we see so commonly paid by the lower orders of people in Great Britain and Ireland to those who are in a situation somewhat supe*- riorto themselves^ is not also paid in America to persons in the same station ; it is the want of common civility I complain of, which it is al- ways desirable to behold betweerij^man and man, let their situations in life be what they itiay^ and which is not contrary to the dictates of nature, or t^' the spirit of genuine liberty^ as it is ob- servable in the behaviour of the wild Indians that wander through the forests of this vast continent^ the most free and independent of all human beings. In the United States^ however, the lower classes of people will return rude and impertinent answers to questions couched in the most civil terms, and will insult a person that bears the appearance of a genfleman^.on purpose to show hov/ much they consider them- selves upon an equality with him. Civility cannot be purchased from them on any terms ; tliey seem to think that it is incompatible with freedom, and that there is no other way of convincing a stranger that he is really in aland of liberty, but by being surly and ill mannered in his presence. JOLR^^CT TO BALTIMORE. 31 LETTER IIL Journeyto Baltimore, '^Description of the CoiLn- try about Philadelphia, — Floating Bridges Qver Schuylkill:, hozv constructed.— Mills in Bramly-ixine Creek. — Improvement in the Machinery of Flour Mills in America, — Town of Wilmington, — Long Houses, — Bad Roads — Fine Prospects, — How relished by Americans,— ^Taverns. — Susquehaimah Ri- ver,— Town of Baltimore, — Plan of the Town, -r— Harbour, — • Public and private Buildings, — Inhabitants, — Country between . Baltimore and Washington. — Execrable Roads. MY DEAR SIR, Washington/ November, ' ON the 16th of November, I left Philadel- phia for Baltimore. The only mode of conveyance which offers for a traveller, who is not provided with his own horses or carriage, is the public stage waggon ; it is possible, indeed, to procure a private carriage at Phi- ladelphia^ to go on to Baltimore, for whieh a great price is always demanded ; but there is no such thing as hiring a carriage or horses from stage to stage. The country about Phi- ladelphia h well cultivated, audit abounds with 32 TRAVELS THROtTGH NORTH AMERICA ! neat country houses ; but it has a bare appear- ance, being totally stripped of the trees^ which have been cut down without mercy for firing;, and to make way for the plough; neither are there any hedges, an idea prevailing that they impoverish the land wherever they are planted. The fences are all of the common post and rail, or of the angular kind. These last are made of rails about eight or nine feet long, roughly split out of trees, and placed horizontally above one another, ak the bars of a gate ; but each tier of rails,, or gate as it were, instead of beirig xin a straight line with the one next to iti is put in a different direc- tion, so as to forrtt i^" angle sufficient to per- mit the ends of thie rails of one tier to rest steady on those of the next. As the^e fences, from their serpentine course, occupy at least fix times as much ground as a common' post and rail fence, and require also a gvea;t deal more wood, they ^re mostly laid asid-^ when- ever land and timber become objectev^^^^ portauce, as they sopn do ia the :lleighbQur- hoOd of large towns. The road to Baltimore is ov^r thc^ lowest of three floating bridges, whicii h,ave been thrown across the river Schuylkill, in the neig)ibour- hood of Philadelphia. ,T^^ view on passing this river, which is about two hundred and fifty yards wide, is beautiful The banks on FLOATING BRIDGES. each side are high;, and for many miles above afford the most deh'ghtful situations for \illas. A very elegant one^, laid out in the English taste^ is seen on passing the river just above the bridge. Adjoining to it are public gardens, and a house of entertainment^ with several good rooms, to which the citizens of Phila- delphia resort in great numbers during the summer season. The floating bridges are formed of large trees, which are placed in the water trans- versely, and chained together ; beams are then laid lengthways upon these, and the whole boarded over, to render the way convenient for passengers. On each side there is a railing, When very heavy carriages go across these bridges, they sink a few inches below the sur- face of the water ; but the passage is by no means dangerous. They are kept in an even direction across the river, by means of chains and anchors in different parts, and are also strongly secured on both shores. Over that part of the river where the channel lies, they are so contrived that a piece can be removed to allow vessels to pass through. These bridges are frequently damaged, and sometimes en- tirely carried away, during floods, at the break- ing up of winter, especially if there happens to be much ice floating in the river. To guard against this, when danger is apprehended and VOL. I. D 54 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : the flood does not come on too rapidlv;, tliey unfasten all the chains by' which the bridge is confined in its proper Iplace^ and then let the whole float down with the stream to a conve- pient part of the shore,, where it can be hauled up and secured. The Country^ after passing the Scliujlkill^ is pleasingly diversified with rising grounds and woods^ and appears to be in a good state of cultivation. The first town of any note which you come to is Chester^ fifteen miles from Philadelphia ; this town contains about sixty dwellings, and is remarkable for being the place where the first colonial assembly sat. From the neighbourhood of this town there is a very grand view of the river Delaware. About half a mile before you come to Wilmington i3 Brandy-wine River, remark- able for its mills, no less than thirteen being built almost close to each other upon it. The water, just above the bridge which is thrown over it, comes tumbling down with great violence over a bed of rocks ; and seats, at a very trifling expence, could be made for three times the number of mills already built. Vessels carrying 1,000 bushels of wheat can come close up to them, and by means of machinery their cargoes are received from^ or delivered to them in a very expeditious manner. Among the mills^ some are for flour. rA*:5^5C'r: flour mills. 35 iome for sawing of wood, and others for stone. The improvements which have b^'en made in the machinery of the-^flour mills in "America are vei*y' gxeat:^ The thief of these consist in a new applicatioh ^of 'the screw^ and the inti^diTction of-*what are called elevators^ the idea of which was evidently borrowed from the chain pump. The screw is made by sticking small thin pieces of board, about three inches long and two wide^ into a cy- linder^ so as to form the spiral \ihe. This screw is placed in a horizontal position, arid by turn- ing on its axis it forces wheat or flour from one end of a trough to the other. For in- stance, in the trough which receives the meal immediately coming from the stones, a screw of this kind is placed, by which the meal is forced on, to the distance of six or eight feet perhaps, into a reservoir ; from thence, with- out any manual labour^ it is conveyed to the very top of the mill by the elevators^ which consist of a number of small buckets of the size of tea-cups, attached to a long band that goes round a wheel at the top^ and another at the bottom of the mill. As the band re- volves round the wheels, these buckets dip into the reservoir of .wheat or flour below, and take their loads* up to the top, where they empty themselves as they turn round the upper wheel. The elevators are inclosed iu d2 36 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA 2 square wooden tubes^ to prevent them frorn catching in any thing, aad also to prevent dust. By means of these two simple con- trivances no manual labour is required from the moment the wheat is taken to the miU till it is converted into flour, and ready to be packed, during the various processes of screen- ings grinding, sifting, &c. Wilmington is the capital of the state of Delaware, and contains about six hundred houses, which are chiefly of bricl^. The streets are l^id on ^> plan somewhat similar to that of Philadelphia. There is nothing very interesting in this tqwn, and the country round about it is flat and insipid. Elkton, twenty-one niiles distant from Wilmington, and the first town in Maryland, contains about ninety indifferent houses, which are built without any regularity ; it is a dirty disagree- able place. In this neighbourhood I first took notice of log-houses ; those which I had hitherto seen having been built either of brick or stone, or else constructed with wooden frames, sheathed oi\ the outside with boards. The log-houses are cheaper than any others in a country where? there is abundance of wood, and generq,lly are the first that are erected on a new settlement in America. The sides consist of trees just squared, and placed horizontally one upon the other; the ends tt the logs of One side resting alternately on the ends of those of the adjoining sides^ in notches ; the interstices between the logs are stopped with cla}/ • and the roof is covered with boards or with shingles^ which are small pieces of wood in the shape of slates or tiles, and which are used for that purpose, w ith a few exceptions, throughout Ainterica. These habitations are not Very sightly, but when w^ell built they are warm and comfortable, and last for a loilg time. A considerable quantity of wheat and In^ dian corn is raised in this neighbourhood, to the production of which the soil is favourable ; but the best cultivated parts of the country are not seen from the road> tvhich passes chiefly over barren and hilly tracts, called ridges/' The reason for carrying the road over these is, because it is found to last longer than if carried over the flat part of the country, where the soil is deep, a circumstance which the people of Maryland always take into consideration ; for after a road is once cut, they never take pains to keep it in good repair. The roads in this state are worse than in any one in the Union ; indeed go very bad are they, that on going from Elkton to the Susquehannah ferry, the driver frequently had to call to the passengers in the stage, to lean ©ut of the carriage first at one side, then at 2 58 TRATELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA ! the other^ to prevent it from oversetting in the deep ruts with which the road abounds : Now^ gentlemen/ to the right upon which the passengers all stretched their bodies half-way out of the carriage to balance it on that side: ''Now, gentlemen, to the left/' and so on. This was found absolutely ne- cessary at least a dozen times in half the num- ber of miles. Whenever they attempt to mend these roads, it is always by filling the ruts with saplings or bushes, and covering them over with earth. This, however, is done Dnly where there are fields on each side of the road. If the road runs contiguous to a w ood> then, instead of mending it where it is bad, they open a new passage through the trees, which they call making a road. It is very common in Maryland to see six or seven different roads branching out from one, w hich all lead to the same place. A stranger, before he is ac- quainted with this circumstance, is frequently puzzled to know which he ought to take. The dexterity with which the drivers of the stages guide their horses along these new roads, which are full of stumps of trees, is astonishing, yet to appearance they are the most awkward drivers possible ; it is more by the different noises which they make, than by their reins, that they manage their horses. ROADS. S9 Charleston stands at a few miles distance from Elkton ; there are about twenty houses only in it^ which are inhabited chiefly by peo- ple who carry on a herring fishery. Beyond it the country is much diversified with hill and dale^ and the soil being but of an indif* ferent quality^ the lands are so little cleared^ that in many parts the road winds through uninterrupted woods for four or five miles to- gether. The scenery in this neighbourhood is extremely interesting. From the top of the hills you meet with numberless bold and ex- tensive prospects of the Chesapeak Bay and of the river Susquehannah > and scarcely do you cross a valley without beholding in the deptlis of the woods the waters of some little creek or rivulet rushing over ledges of rock in a beau- tiful cascade. The generality of Americans stare with astonishment at a person who can feel any delight at passing through such a coun- try as this. To them the sight of a wheat field or a cabbage garden would convey plea- sure far greater than that of the most romantic woodland views. They have an unconquerable aversion to trees ; and whenever a settlement is made^ they cut away all before them with- out mercy ; not one is spared ; all share the , same fate, and are involved in the general - havoc. It appears strang\% that in a country where the rays of the sun act with such pro- 40 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA ! digious power^ some few trees near the habita- tions should not be spared^, whose foliage might afford a cooling shade during the parching heats 6{ summer ; and I have oftentimes expressed my astonishment that none were ever left for that purpose. In answer I have generally been told^ that they could not be left standing near a house without danger. The trees it seems in the American forests have but a very slen- der hold in the ground^ considering their im- mense height^ so that when two or three fully grown are deprived of shelter in consequence of the others which stood around them being cut down^ they are very apt to be levelled by the first storm that chances to blow. This, however^ wou]d not be the case with trees of a small growth^ w hich might safely be spared;, and v/hich would scon afford an agreeable shade if the Americans thought proper to leave them standing : but the fact of the matter is^ that from the face of the country being en- tirely overspread with trees^ the eyes of the people become satiated with the sight of them. The ground cannot be tilled^ nor can the inhabitants support themselves^ till they are removed ; they are looked upon as a nuisance^ and the man that can cut dov/n the largest number, and have the fields about his house most clear of them, is looked upon as the most industrious citizen, and the one that is T AVERTS. making the greatest improvements * in the country. Every ten or twelve miles upon this road there are taverns^ which are all built of wood, and much in the same style^ with a porch in front the entire length of the house. Few of these taverns have any signs^ and they are only to be distinguished from the other houses by the number cf handbills pasted up on the walls near the door. They take their name, not from the sign^ but from the person who keeps them, as Jones's^ Brown's^ &c. &c. All of them are kept nearly in the same manner. At each house there are regular hours for breakfast, dinner^, and supper^ nod if a traveller arrives somewhat before the time appointed for any one of these, it is in vain to call for a se- parate meal for himself; he must wait pa- tiently till the appointed hour, and then sit down with the other guests that may happen to be in the house. Breakfasts are generally plentifully served ; there is tea, coffee, and different sorts of bread, cold salt meat, and very commonly besides, beef steaks, fried * I have heard of Americans landing on barren parts ©f the north-west coast of Ireland, and evincing the greatest surprise and pleasure at the beauty and iniproved state of the «Quntry, so ckajr erf* trees ! 42 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA t fish, &c. &c. .The charge made for break- fast is nearly the same as that for dinner. This part of Maryland abounds with iron ore, which is of a quality particularly well adapted for casting. The oie is found in banks «o near the surface of the earth that there is never occasion to sink a shaft to get at it. Near Charleston there is a small foundry for cannon. The cannon are bored by water. As I passed by, they were making twenty-four- pounders, two of which I was informed they finished every week. The iron is extremely tough; very few of the guns burst on being proved. The Sasquehannah river is crossed, on the way to Baltimore, at a ferry five miles above its entrance into the Chesapeak. The river is here about a mile and a quarter wide, and deep enough for any vessels; the banks are high and thickly wooded, and the ' scenery is grand and picturesque. A small town called Havre de Grace, which contains about forty houses, stands on this river at the ferry. A petition was presented to congress the last year to have it made a port of entry ; but at present The landlady always presides at the head of the table to make the tea, or a female servant attends for that purpose at breakfast and in the evening 5 and at many taverns in the country the whole of the fanlily sit^own-to'dinner with th« guests. fiALTlMORE. 45 there is very Yiifle trade carried on there. A few ships are annually built in the neighbour- hood. From hence to Baltimore the coun- try is extremely poor; the soil is of a yellow gravel mixed with clay^ and the roads exe- crable, Baltimore is supposed to contain about six- teen thousand inhabitants^ and though not the capital of the state, is the largest town in Mary- land;, and the most considerable place of trade in Nortli America^, after Philadelphia and New York. The plan of the town is somewhat similar to that of Philadelphia^, most of the streets crossing each other at right angles. The main street, which runs east and west nearly, is about eighty feet wide ; the others are from forty to sixty feet. The streets are not all paved, so that when it rains heavily thc^ are rendered almost impassable^ the soil being a stiff yellow clay, which retains the water a long time. On the south side of the town k a harbour commonly called the Bason^, which affords about nine feet water^ and is large enough to confain two thousand sail of mer- chant vessels. There are wharfs and stores along it, the whole length of the town ; but as a particular wind is necessary to enable ships to get out of this bason, by far the greater number of those which enter the port of Bal-* timore stop at a harbour which is formed by 44 TRATELS THROUGrt NORTH AMERICA i a neck of land near the mouth of the bason, called FelPs Point. Here also wharfs have been built, alongside which vessels of six hun- dred tons burthen can lie with perfect safety. Numbers of persons have been induced to set- tle on this Point, in order to be contiguous to the shipping. Upwards of seven hundred houses have already been built there, and re- gular streets laid out, with a large market place- These houses, generally speaking, are con- sidered as a part of Baltimore, but to all ap- pearance they form a separate town, being upwards of a mile distant from the other part of the town. In the neighbourhood, Feirs Point and Baltimore are spoken of as distinct and separate places. Fell's Point is chiefly the residence of seafaring people^ and of the younger partners of mercantile houses, who are stationed there to attend to the shipping. The greater number of private houses in Baltimore are of brick, but many, particularly in the skirts of the town, are of wood* In some of the new streets a few appear to be well built, but in general the houses are small^ heavy, and inconvenient. As for the public buildings^ there are none worthy of being men- tioned. The churches and places for publie worship are ten in number ; one respectively for Episcopalians, Presbyterians, German Lu- therans, German Calvinists;, Reformed Ger- " BAI^TIMORE. 48f maas^ Nicolites or New Quakers, Baptists, Roman Catholics, and two for Methodists. The Presbyterian church which has lately been erected, is the best building among thein, and indeed the handsomest building in town. It is of brick, with a portico in front support- ed by six pillars of stone. They have no less than three incorporated banks in this town, and the number of notes issued from them is so great, as almost to pre- clude the circulation of specie. Some of the notes are for as small a sum as a single dollar, p,nd being much more portable than silver, are generally preferred. As for gold it is very scarce ; I hardly ever met with it during two months that I remained in Maryland. Amongst the inhabitants of Baltimore are to be found English, L ish, Scotch, and French, The Irish appear to be most numerous ; and many of the principal merchants in town are in the number. Since the war, a great many French have arrived both from France and from the West India islands. With a few exceptions the inhabitants are all engaged in trade, which is closely attended to. They are mostly plain people, sociable however amongst themselves, and very friendly and hospitable towards strangers. Cards and dan- cing are favourite amusements, both in pri- vate and at public assemblies, which are held 3^6 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: every fortnight. There are two theatres here,, ill which there arc performances oceasionallj. The oldest of them, w hich stands in the road to Fell's Point, is most wretcihed^ and appears little better than a heap of loose boards ; for a long ^;ime it lay quite neglected^ but has lately been fitted up for a company of French actors^ the only one I ever heard of in the country. Baltimore^ like Philadelphia^ has suffered from the ravages of the yellow fever. During the autumn it is generally unhealthy^ and those who can afford it retire to country seats in the neighbourhood, of which some' are mOst de- lightfully situated. From Baltimore to Washington, which is forty miles distant, the country wears but a poor appearance. The soil in some parts con- sists of a yellow clay mixed with gravel : in other parts it is very sandy. In the neighbour- hood of the creeks and between the hills are patches of rich black earthy called bottoms^ the trees upon which grow to a large size; but where there is gravel they are very small. The roads passing over these bottoms are worse than any I ever met with elsewhere. In driving over one of them^ near the head wa- ters of a branch of Patuxent river, a few days after a heavy fall of rain, the w heels of a sulky which I was in sunk up to the very boxes. • For a moment I despaired of being able to ROADS AND BRIDGES. 4^ get out without assistance, when my horse, which was very powerful, finding himself im- peded, threw himself upon his haunches, and disengaging his fore-feet, made a vigorous plunge forwards, which luckily disengaged both himself and the sulky, and freed me from my embarrassment, I was afterwards in- formed that General Washington, as he was going to meet congress a short time before, was stopped in the very same place, his carriage sinking so deep in the mud that it was found necessary to send to a neighbouring house for ropes and poles to extricate it. Over some of the bottoms, which were absolutely impassable in their natural state, causeways have been thrown, which are made with large trees laid side by side across the road. For a time these causeways aiFord a commodious passage ; but they do not last long, as many of the trees sink into the soft soil, and others^ exposed to the continual attrition of w^aggon wheels in a particular part, breaking asunder. In this state, full of unseen obstacles, it is absolutely a matter of danger for a person unacquainted with the road to attempt to drive a carriage along it. The bridges over the creeks, co- vered with loose boards, are as bad as the causeways, and totter as a carriage passes over. Thj^t the legislature of Maryland can be so 4S TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA ^ ijmctive^ and not take some steps to repair this; which is one of the principal roads in the state, the great road from north to south, and the high road to the City of Washington^ is fnoifct wonderful ! 49 LETTER IV. foundation of the City of Washington. — jYo/ readilij agreed to hj different States, — Choice of the Ground left to General Washington. — * Circumstances to he considered in chusing the Ground, — The Spot fixed iipon, central to all the States, — Also remarkably advantageously situated for trade, — Nature of the BackCouU'- try Trade. — Summary View of the principal Trading Tozvns in the United States, — Their prospeiHty shewn to depend on the Back Co un- try Trade. —Description of the Patozvmac River,~Its Connection with other Rivers pointed out, — Prodigious Extent of the Wa- ter Communication from Washington City in all Directions, — Counti^y likely to Trade im- mediately with Washington, — Situation of Washington. — Plan of the City, — Public Buildings. — So77ie begim, others projected.— Capitol, — President' s Ho use, — Hotel. — Stone and other buildip.g-JMaterials found in the Neighbourhood. — Private Houses and Inha- bitants at present in the City.— Different Opi- nions respecting the future Greatness of the City. — Impediments thrown in the way of its Improvement. — What has given Rise to this, MY DEAR SIR, Washington, November. THE City of Washington, or The Fe- deral City, as it is indiscriminately called^ YOL. I. E 50 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA ! was laid out in the year 1793^ and is ex- pressly designed for being the metropolis of the United States^ and the seat of the federal government. In the year ISOO the congress is to meet there for the first time. As the foun- dation of this city has attracted the attentioii of so many people in Europe, and as such very different opinions are entertained about it, I shall in the following pages, give you a brief account of its rise and progress. Shortly after the close of the American war^ considerable numbers of the Pennsylvanian line^, or of the militia, with arms in their hands^ surrounded the hall in which the congress was assembled at Philadelphia, and with vehement menaces insisted upon immediate appropria- tions of money being made to discharge the large arrears due to them for their past ser- TiceSo The members, alarmed at such an out- rage^ te^olved to quit a state in which they met wifii insult instead of protection, and quick- ly adjourned to New York, where the session v/as terminated. A short time afterwards, the propriety was strongly urged in congress, of fixing upon some place for the meeting of the legislature, and for the seat of the general go- vernment, which should be subject to the laws and regulations of the congress alone, in order that the members, in future, might not have to depend for their personal safety^, and for their CiTY OF WASHINGTON, Sl freedom of deliberation, upon the good or bad police of d.uy individual state. This idea of making the place, which should be chosen for the meeting of the legislature, independent of the particular state to which it might belong, was further corroborated by the following ar- gument : That as the several states in the union were in some measure rivals to each other^ although connected together by certain ties, if any one of them was fixed upon for the seat of the general government in preference, and thus raised to a state of pre-eminence, it might per- haps be the occasion of great jealousy amongst the others. Every person was convinced of the expediency of preserving the union of the states entire ; it was apparent, therefore, that the greatest precautions ought to be taken to remove every source of jealousy from amongst them, which might tend, though remotely, to produce a separation. In fine it was absolutely necessary that the seat of government should be made permanent, as the removal of the public^ offices^ and the archives from place to place, could not but be attended with many and very great inconveniences. Hov/ever, notwithstanding this measure ap- peared to be beneficial to the interest of the union at large, it was not until after the revo- lution, by which the pfesent federal constitu^ tion was established, that it was acceded to on E 2 52 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : the part of all the states. Pennsylvania^ in particular^ conscious of her being a principal and central state, and therefore likely to be made the seat of government if this new pro- ject was not carried into execution^ was fore- most in the opposition. At last she complied ; but it was only on condition that the congress should meet at Philadelphia until the new city was ready for its reception^ flattering herself that there would be so many objections after- wards to the removal of the seat of government, and so many diiBculties in putting the pro- ject into execution^ that it would finally be re- linquished. To the discriminating judgment of General Washington, then president, it was left to determine upon the spot best calculated for the federal city. After mature deliberation he fixed upon a situation on the banks of the Patowmac river, a situation which seems to be marked out by nature, not only for a large city, but expressly for the seat of the metro- polis of the United States. In the choice of the spot, there were two principal considerations : First, that it should be as central as possible in respect to every state in the union ; secondly, that it should be advantageously situated for commerce, without which it could not be expected that the city would ever be distinguished for size or for splendour; and it was to be supposed, that VIEW OF THE TRADING TOWNS. 53 tile people of the United States would be de- sirous of having the metropolis of the coun- try as magnificent as it possibly could be. These two essential points are most happily combined in the spot which has been chosen. The northern and southern extremities of the United States are in 46^ and 3V north la- titude. The latitude of the new city is 38^53 north ; so that it is within twenty-three minoies of being exactly between the two extremities. In no part of North America either is there a port situated so far up the country to the west- ward^ excepting what belongs to Great Britain, on the river St. Lawrence^ its distance from the ocean being no less than two hundred and eighty miles. A more central situation could certainly have been fixed upon^ by going fur- ther to the westward ; but had this been done, it must have been an inland one, which would have been very unfavourable for trade. The size of all towns in America has hitherto been proportionate to their trade, and particularly to that carried on with the back settlements. This trade consists in supplying the people of the western parts of the United States, or the back settlements, with certain articles of fo- reign manufacture, which they do not find any interest in fabricating for themselves at pre sent; nor is it to be supposed that they willj, 54 TRAVELS THRODGII NORTH AMERICA: for many years to come^ while land remains cbeap^ and these articles can be imported and sent to them on reasonable terms. The articles chiefly in demand consist of hardware^ woollen cloths^ figured cottons^ hosiery^ haberdashery, earthenware^ &c. &c, from England ; coffee, rum, sugar^;, from the West Indies ; tea, coarse muslins^ and callicoes^ from the East Indies, In return for these articles^ the people of the back settlements send down for exportation the various kinds of produce which the country affords : wheat and flour^ furs^ skins^ rice^ in- digo^ tobacco, pitchy tar^ &c. &c. It is very evident, therefore, that the best situation for a trading town must be upon a long navigable river, so that the tovv^n may be open to the sea, and thus enabled to carry on a foreign trade, and at the same time be enabled^ by means of an extensive water communication in an op- posite direction, to trade with the distant parts of the countr3^ None of the inland towns have as yet increased to a great size. Lan- caster, which is the largest in ail America, con- tains only nine hundred houses, and it is nearly double the size of any other inland one. Neither do the sea-port towns flourish^ which are not well situated for carrying on an inland * Sugar is not sent very far back into the country^ as is procured at much less expence from the maple-tree. VIEW OF THE TRACING TOWNS. 55 trade at the same time. The truth of this po- sition must appear obvious^ on taking a survey of the principal towns in the United States. To begin with Boston, the largest town north of New York, and one of the oldest in the United States. Though it has a most excel- lent harbour, and has always been inhabited by an enterprizing industrious set of people, yet it is now inferior both in size and commerce, to Baltimore, which was little more than the resi- dence of a few fishermen thirty years ago ; and this, because there is no river in the neighbour- hood navigable for more than seven miles, and the western parts of the state of Massachusets, of which it is the capital, can be supplied with commodities, carried up the North River, on much better terms than if the same commo- dities v*ere sent by land carriage frojn Boston. Neither does Boston increase by any means in the same proportion as the other towns, which have an extensive trade with the people of the back settlements. For the same cause we do not find that any of the sea-port or other towns in Rhode Island and Connecticut are increas- ing very fast ; on the contrary, Newport, the capital of the state of Rhode Island, and which has a harbour that is boasted of as being one of the best throughout the United States, is now falling to decay. Newport contains about one thousand houses ; none of the other towns 56 TRAVELS THROtljGH NORTH AMERICA! between Boston and New York contain more than five hundred. We now come to New York, which enjoys the double advantae:es of an excellent harbour and a large navigable river, which opens a com- munication with the interior parts of the coun- try ; and here we find a flourishing city, con- taining forty thousand * inhabitants, and in- creasing beyond every calculation. The North or Hudson River, at the mouth of which New York stands, is navigable from thence for one hundred and thirty miles in large vessels, and in sloops of eighty tons burthen as far as Al- bany; smaller ones go still higher. About nine miles above Albany, the Mohawk River falls into the Hudson, by means of which. Wood Creek, Lake Oneida, and Oswego River, a communication is opened with Lake Ontario. Iif.this route there are several portages, but it is a route which is much frequented, and num- bers of boats are kept employed upon it, in carrying goods whenever the season is not too dry. In long droughts the waters fall so much, that oftentimes there is not sufficient to float an empty boat. AH these obstructions how- ever may, and will one day or other, be reme- died by the hand of art. Oswego river, before it falls into Lake Ontario, communicates with •* Six inhabitants may be reckoned for every house in ili^ United States, VIEW OF THE TRADING TOWNS. 57 (lie Seneka rivei^ which affords in succession an entrance into the lakes Cayuga, Seneka, and Canadaqua. Lake Seneka^, the largest^ is about forty miles in length ; upon it there is a schoo- ner-rigged vessel of seventy tons burthen con- stantly employed. The shores of these lakes are more thickly settled than the other part of the adjacent country, but the population of the whole tract lying between tlie rivers Genesee and Hudson, which are about two hundred and fifty miles apart^ is rapidly increasing. All this country v^^est of the Hudson lliver, together with that to the east, comprehending the back parts of the states of Massachusets and Con- necticut, and also the entire of the state of Ver- mont, are supplied with European manufac- tures and West Indian produce, &c. &c. by way of New York: not directly from that city^ but from Albany, Hudson, and other towns on the North River, which trade with New York^ and which are intermediate places for the de- posit of goods passing to, and coming from the back country. Albany, indeed, is now begin- ning herself to import goods from the Yvest Indies ; but still the bulk of her trade is with New York. Nothing can serve more to sliew the advantages which accrue to any tovv u from an intercourse with the back country, than the sudden progress of these secondary places of trade upon the North River. At Ai- 58 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AiMERICA : bany^ the number of houses is increasing as fast as at New York ; at present there are upwards of eleven hundred; and in Hudson city^ which was only laid out in the year 1783,, there are KOw more than three hundred and twenty dwellings. This city is on the east side of the North River^ one hundred and thirty miles above its mouth. Bymeans also of the North River and Lake Champlain;, a trade is carried on with Montreal in Canada, But to go on with the survey of the towns to the southward. In New Jersey, we find Amboy^ situated at the head of Raritan Bay, a bay not inferior to any throughout the United States. The greatest encouragements also have been held out by the state legislature^ to mer- chants who would settle there; but the town> Botwithstandingv remains nearly in the state it was in at the time of the revolution : sixty houses are all that it contains. New Bruns- w ick^ which is built on Raritan River^ about fifteen miles above its entrance into the bay, carries on a small inland trade with the ad- jacent country ; but the principal part of New Jersey is naturally supplied with foreign manu- factures, by New York on one side, and by Philadelphia on the other, the towns most hap- pily situated for the purpose. There are about two hundrod houses in New Brunswick^ and VIEW OF THE TRADING TOWNS. 59 about the same number in Trenton on Dela- ware,, the capital of the state. Philadelphia^ the largest town in the union, has evidently been raised to that state of pre- eminence by her extensive inland commerce. On one side is the river Delaware, which is navigable in sloops for thirty-five miles above the town, and in boats carrying eight or nine tons one hundred miles farther. On the other side is the Schuylkill, navigable, excepting a|; the falls, for ninety miles. But the country bordering upon these rivers, is but a trifling part of that which Philadelphia trades with. Goods are forwarded to Harrisburgh, a town situated on the Susquehannah, and from thence sent up that river, and dispersed throughout the adjoining country. The eastern branch of the Susquehannah is navigable for two hundred and fifty miles above Harrisburgh. This place, which in 1785 scarcely deserved the name of a village, now contains upwards of three hundred houses. Bv land carriapre Philadel- phia also trades with the western parts of Pennsylvania, as far as Pittsburgh itself, which is on the Ohio, with the back of Virginia, and, strange to tell, with Kentucky, seven hundred miles distant. Philadelphia however does not enjoy the exclusive trade to Virginia and Kentucky ; Baltimore^, which lies more to tlie souths 8 60 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : comes in for a considerable sliare^ if not for the greatest part of it^ and ,t(^ that is in- debted for her sudden rise, and her great su- periority over Annapolis the capital of Mary- land. Annapolis^ although it has a good harbour, and was made a port of entry as long ago as the year 1694, has scarcely any trade now. Baltimore, situated more in the heart of the country, has gradually drawn it all away from her. From Baltimore nearly the entire of Maryland is furnished with Eu- ropean manufactures. The very flourishing state of this place has already been men- tioned. As the Patowmac river, and the towns upon it, are to come more particularly under notice afterwards, we may from hence pass on to the other towns in Virginia. With re- gard to Virginia, however, it is to be observ- ed, that the impolitic laws * which have been enacted in that state have thrown a great damp upon trade; the Virginians too have always been more disposed towards agri- culture than trade, so that the towns in that state, some of which are most advantageous- ly situated, have never increased as they would have done, had the country been inhabited by a different kind of people, and had different * For some account of them see Letter XIII. VIEW OF THE TRADING TOWNS. 61 laws consequently existed ; still however we shall find that the most flourishing towns in the state^ are those which are open to the sea, and situated most conveniently at the same time for trading with the people of the back country. On Rappahannock River, for in- stance, Tappahannock or Hobb's Hole was laid out at the same time that Philadelphia was. Fredericksburgh was built many years after- wards on the same river, but thirty miles higher up, and at the head of that part of it which was navigable for sea vessels ; the con- sequence of this has been, that Fredericksburgh, from being situated more in the heart of the country, is now four times as large a town as Hobb's Hole. York River, from running so closely to James River on the one side, and the Rappa- hannock on the other, does not atTord a good situation for a large tow n. The largest town upon it, which is York, only contains seventy houses. William^burgh was formerly the capital of the state, and contains about four hundred houses; but instead of increasing, this town is going to ruin, and numbers of the houses at present are uninhabited, which is evidently on account of its inland situation. There is no navigable stream nearer to it than one mile and a half, and this is only a small 62 TRAVELS THROtJGfi NORTH AMERICA : creek which runs into James River. Rich- mond^ on the contrary^ which is the present capital of the state, has increased very fast^, be- cause it stands on a large navigable river ; yet Richmond is no more than an intermediate place for the deposit cf goods passing to and from the back country^, vessels drawing more than seven feet water being unable to come up to the town. The principal place of trade in Virginia is Norfolk. This town has a good harbour, and is enabled to trade with the upper parts of the country, by means of James River, near the mouth of which it stands. By land also a brisk trade is carried on v/ith the back parts of North Carolina, for in that state there are no towns of any importance. The entrances from the sea into the rivers in that state, are all impeded by shoals and sand banks^ none of which afford more than eleven feet water, and the passage over some of them is very dangerous from the sand shifting. Wilming- ton, which is the greatest place of trade in it, contains only two hundred and fifty houses. In order to carry on their trade to North Carolina to more advantage, a canal is now cutting across the Dismal Swamp, from Norfolk into Albemarle sound, by means of the rivers that empty into which, a water communication will be opened to the remote VIEW OF THE TRADING TOWNS. 6S parts of that state. Added to this, Norfolk, from its contiguity to the Dismal Swamp, is enabled to supply the West Indian market with lumber on better terms than any other town, in the United States. It is in conse- quence increasing with wonderful rapidity, notwithstanding the disadvantages it labours under from the laws^ which are so inimical to commerce. At present it contains up vv^ards of five hundred houses^ which have all been built within the last twenty years^ for in the year 1776 the town was totally destroyed by- orders of Lord DunmorC;, then regal governor of Virginia. Most of the rivers in South Carolina are ob- - structed at their mouths^ much in the same man- ner as those in North Carolina ; at Charles- ton, however tliere is a safe and commo- diou harbour. From having such an advan- tage^ this town commands ne?,rly the entire trade of the state in which it is situated, as well as a considerable portion of that of North Carolina, Tiie consequence is^ that Charleston ranks as the fourth commercial town in the union. There are two rivers wbicli disembogue on each side of the town^ Cooper and Ashley, ; these are navigable, but not for a very great distance ; however, from Cooper River, a canal is to be cut to the Santee^ a large navigable river which runs a considerable 64 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA r way up the countrj'. Charleston has un- fortunately been almost totally destroyed l)y fire of late^ but it is rebuilding very fast^ and will most probably in a few years be lar- ger than ever. The view that has been taken so far is suffi- cient to demonstrate^ that the prosperity of the towns in the United States is dependant upon their txade^ and principally upon that which is carried on with the interior parts of the country ; and also^ that those towns which are most conveniently situated for the pur- pose of carrying on this inland trade^ are those which enjoy the greatest share of it. It is now time to examine more particularly how far the situation of the federal city is favour- able^ or otherwise^ for commerce : to do so^ it will be necessary^ in the first place, to trace the course of the Patowmac River, on which it stands, and also that of the rivers with which it is connected. The Patowmac takes its rise on the north- west side of Alleghany Mountains, and after running in a meandering direction for upwards of four hundred miles, falls into the Chesapeak Bay. At its confluence with the bay it is seven miles and a half wide ; about thirty miles higher, at Nominy Bay, four and a half ; at Aquia, three ; at Hallowing Point, one and a half; and at Aiexandria^ and from thence to PATOWMAC RIVER. 65 the federal city, it is one mile and quarter wide. The depth of water at its mouth is seven fa- thoms ; at St. George's Island, five ; at Alex- andria^ four ; and from thence to Washington, seven miles distant, three fathoms. The navi- gation of the Patowmac, from the Chesapeak Bay to the city, one hundred and forty miles distant, is remarkable safe, and so plain that any navigator of common abilities, that has once sailed up the river, might venture to take up a vessel drawing twelve feet water without a^ pilot. This could not be said of any other river on the continent, from the St. Lawrence to the Mississippi. In its course it receives several large streams, the principal one of which falls in at the federal city. This river is called the Eastern Branch of the Patowniac ; but it scarcely deserves that name, as it extends no more than thirty miles up the country. At its mouth it is nearly as wide as the main branch of the river, and close to the city the water is in many places thirty feet deep. Thousands of vessels might lie here, and sheltered from all danger, arising either from freshes, or from ice upon the break- ing up of a severe winter. Thus it appears that the federal city is possessed of one essential qualification of making it a place of impor- tance, namely, a good harbour, from which there is a ready passage to the ocean ; it will VOL, I, F 66 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : also appear that it is well situated for trading with the interior parts of the country. The water in the Patowmac continues nearly the same depth that it is opposite to the eity for one mi4e higher^ where a large rock rises up in the middle of the river^ on each side of which there are sand-banks. It is said that there is a deep channel between this rock and the shore^, but it is so intricate that it would be dangerous to attempt to take a large vessel through it. The navigation^ however, is safe to the little falls for river crafty, five miles further on ; here a canal,, which extends two miles and a half, the length of these falls or rapids^ has been cut and perfected^, which opens a free passage for boats as far as the great falls, which are seven miles from the-^ others. The descent of the river at these is seventy-six feet in a mile and a quarter ; but it is intended to make another canal here also ; a part of it is already cut^ and every exer- tion is making to have the whole completed with expedition.* From hence to Fort Cum- berland, one hundred and ninety-one miles above the federal city, there is a free naviga- tion, and boats are continually passing up and down. Beyond this, the passage in the river is obstructed in numerous places ; but there is * For a further description of tlxese Falls see Letter XXXI. WATER COMMUNICATIONS. 67 a possibility of opening it^ and as soon as the company formed for the purpose have suffi- cient funds^ it will certainly be done. From the place up to which it is asserted the pas- sage of the Patowmac can be opened^ the distance across land to Cheat River is only thirty-seven miles. This last river is not at present navigable for more than fifty miles above its mouth ; but it can be rendered so for boats, and so far up that there will only be the short portage that I have mentioned be- tw^een the navigable waters of the two rivers. Things are only great or small by comparison, and a portage of thirty * seven miles v^ill be thought a very short one, when found to be the only interruption to an inland navi- gation of upwards of two thousand seven hun- dred miles, of which two thousand one hun- dred and eighty-three are down stream. Che^t River is two hundred yards wide at its mouth, and falls into the Monongahela, which runs on to Pittsburgh, and there receives the Al- leghany River ; united they form the Ohio, which after a course of one thousand one ^ hundred and eighty-three miles, during which it receives twenty-four other considerable rivers, some of them six hundred yards wide at the mouth, and navigable for hundreds of miles up the country, envpties itself into the Mississippi. f3 6S TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : If we trace the water commvinication in an opposite direction^ its prodigious extent wili be a still greater subject of astonishment. By ascending the Alleghany River from Pitts- burgh as far as French Creek, and afterwards this latter stream, you come to Fort le Boeuf This place is within fifteen miles of Presqu* •Isle, a town siituated upon Lake Erie, which has a harbour capable of admitting vessels drawing nine feet water. Or you may get upon the lake by ascending the great Miami River, which falls into the Ohio five hundred and fifty miles below Pittsl)urgh. From the Great Miami there is a portage of nine> miles only to Sandusky River, which runs, in^to Lake Erie. It is most probable, however^ that whatever intercourse there may be be- tween the lakes and the federal city, it will hi^ kept, up by means of th^ Alleghany River and French Creek, rather thau by the Miami, as in the last case it would be necessary to -combat against the stream of the Ohio for jive hundred a^d fifty miles, a very serious obr ject of consideration. Lake ErieJs three hundred miles in length, and ninety in fereadth, and there is a free com- munication between it. Lake Huron, and Lake Miehiga^n. Lake Huron is upwards of ©ae thousand mijes in cireuii\fereiice ; Michi- gan is somewhat smaller. Numbers of large RIVERS AND LAKES. 69 rivers fall into these lakes^ after having watered immense tracts of country in various directions. Some of these rivers too are connected in a most singular manner with others, which run in a course totally dilFerent. For instance, after passing over the Lakes Erie, St. Clair, ^nd Mir- chigan, to the head of Puan's Bay, you come to Fox River ; from hence there is a portage of three miles only to Ouisconsing River, which empties itself into the Mississippi; and in the fall of the year, when the waters are high, and the rivers overflow, it is oftentimes possible to > pass from Fox River to Ouisconsing River without ever getting out of a canoe. Thus^ excepting a portage of three miles only at the most, it is possible to go the whole way by wa- ter from Presqu' Isle, on Lake Erie, to New Orleans, at the mouth of the Mississippi, a dis- tance of near four thousand miles, It would be endless task to trace the water communica- tion in every direction. By ^. portage pf nine miles at the Falls of Niagara, the navigation of Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence is open- ed on one side, and at the other that of Lake Superior, by a still shorter portage at the Falls of St. Mary. This last lake, which is at least fifteen hundred miles in circumference, is sup- plied by no less than forty rivers ; and beyond it the water communication extends for hun- 5 TO TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: dreds of miles farther on, through the Lake of the Woods to Lake Winnipeg, which is still larger than that of Superior. But supposing that the immense regions bor- dering upon these lakes and rivers were already peopled, it is not to be concluded, that because they are connected by w ater with the Patowmac, the federal city must necessarily be the mart for the various productions of the w hole country. There are different sea ports to which the inha- bitants will trade, according to the situation of each particular part of the country. Quebec, on the river St. Lawrence, wdll be one ; New York, connected as has been shewn with Lake Ontario, another ; and New Orleans at the mouth of the Mississippi, which by the late treaty with Spain has been made a free port, a third. The federal city will come in also for its share, and what this share will be it now remains to ascertain. Situated upon the banks of the Patowmac, there are already two towns, and both in the vicinity of the federal city. George Town, which contains about two hundred and fifty houses ; and Alexandria, with double the num- ber : the former of these stands about one mile above the city, nearly opposite the large rock in the river, which has been spoken of; the latter, seven miles below it. Considerable quantities of produce are alreq.dy sent down the NATIONAL BANK. 71 Patowmac to each of these towns^ ami the people in the country are beginning to look thither in return for a part of their supply of foreign manufactures. It has been maintained, therefore:, that these two places^ already in the practice of trading with the back settlers^ will draw the greater part of the country trade to themselves^ to the prejudice of the federal city. Both these towns have as great advantages in point of situation as the city ; the interests of the three places therefore must unquestionably for a time clash together. It can hardly be doubted^ however^ but that the federal city will in a few years completely eclipse the other two. George Town can fur- nish the people of the back country with fo- reign manufactures^ at second hand only^ from Baltimore and Philadelphia; Alexandria im- ports directly from Europe^ but on a very con- tracted scale : more than two thirds of the goods which are sent from thence to the back country are procured in the same manner as at George Town. In neither place are there merchants with large capitals ; nor have the banks^ of which there is one in each town^ sufficient funds to afford them much assistance ; but merchants with large capitals are pre- paring to move to the city. As soon also as the seat of government is fixed there^ the na- tional bank, or at least a large branch of it. 72 TllAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : will be established at the same time ; this cir- cumstance alone will aiFord the people of the city a decided advantage oyer those of Alex- andria and George Town. Added to alL both these towns are in the territorj' of Co- lumbia;, that iS;, in the district of ten miles round the city which is to be subject to the laws and regulations of congress alone ; it may be, therefore, that encouragements will be held out by congress to those who settle in the city, which will be refused to such as go to any other part of the territory. Although Alexandria and George Town, then, may rival the city while in its infancy, yet it cannot be imagined that either of them will be able to cope with it in the end. The probable trade of the city may for this reason be spokep of as if neither of the other places existed. It may be taken for granted, in the first place, that the whole of the country bordering upon the Patowmac river, and upon those rivers which fall into it, will trade with the city of Washington. In tracing the course of the Pa- towmac all these rivers were not enumerated; a better idea of them may be had from an in- spection of the map. Shenandoah, which is the longest, is not navigable at present ; but it has been surveyed, and the company for improving the navigation of the Patowmac have stated that it can be made so for one hun- PROB.IlBLE trade of WASHINGTON. 73 dred miles. This would be cominj^ very near to Staunton^ behind the Blue Mountains, and which is on the high road from Kentucky^ ^nd from the new state of Tenesseej, to the city of Philadelphia. Frankfort^ the capital of the former of these states^ is nearly eight hun- dred miles from Philadelphia; Knoxville, that of the other^ seven hundred and twenty- eight. Both these towns draw their supplies of foreign manufactures from Philadelphia, and by land carriage. Supposing then that the na- vigation of the Shenandoah should be per- fected, there would be a saving of four hundred and thirty-six miles of land carriage from going to Washington by the Shenandoah and Pa- towmac instead of going to Philadelphia ; such a saving, it might be imagined, would draw the whole of this trade to Washington. Whe- ther the two western states, Kentucky and Te~ nessee, will trade to New Orleans or not, at a future day, in preference to any of these places^ will be investigated presently. By means of Cheat and Monongahela rivers it has been shewn, that an opening may be obtauied to Pittsburgh. This will be a route of about four hundred and fifty miles from Washington, and in it there will be one port- age, from the Patowmac to Cheat River, of thirty-seven miles, and perhaps two or three others ; but these will be all very small. It 74 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : has been ascertained beyond doubt^ that the Pittsburgh merchant can have his goods con- veyed from New York, by means of the Hud- son and Mohawk rivers, to Oswego, and from thence by the lakes Ontario and Erie, and the Alleghany River, to Pittsburgh, for one third of the sum which it costs him to transport them by land from Philadelphia. He prefers getting them by land, because the route from Nev/ York is uncertain ; his goods may be lost, or damaged, or delayed months beyond the time lie expects them. From Hudson River to the Mohawk is a portage of ten miles, or there- abouts ; and before they can get to Oswego are two or three more. At Osw^ego the goods must be shipped on board a vessel suitable for navigating the lakes, where they are exposed to tempests and contrary winds. At the Falls ^ of Niagara is a portage of nine miles m-ore ; the goods must here be shipped again on board a vessel on Lake Erie, and after arriving at Presqu' Isle must be conveyed over another portage preparatory to their being laden in a boat upon the Alleghany River. The whole of this route, from New York to Pittsburgh^ is about eii;ht hundred miles ; that from the federal city not much more than half the dis tance ; if therefore the merchant at Pittsburgh can get his goods conveyed from New York, for one third of what he pays for the carriage WATER CARRIAGE, 75 of tliem by land from Philadelphia, he ought iipt to pay more than one sixth of the sum for their carriage from the federal city ; it is to be concluded, therefojie^ that he w ill avail him- self of the latter route, as there will be no ob- jection to it on account of any uncertainty in the mode of conveyance, arising from storms and contrary winds. The people in Pittsburgh, and the western country along the w aters of the Ohio, draw their supplies from Philadelphia and Balti- more ; but they send the productions of the country, which would be too bulky for land carriage, down the Ohio and Mississippi to New Orleans. From Pittsburgh to New Or- leans the distance is two thousand one hun- dred and eighty-three miles. On an average it takes about twenty-eight days to go down there with the stream; but to return by water it takes from sixty days to three months. The passage back is very laborious as well as te- dious ; on which account they seldom think of bringing back boats which are sent down from Pittsbu5»gh, but on arriving at New Orleans they are broken up, and the plank sold. These boats are built on the cheapest construction^ und expressly for the purpose of going down stream. The men get back the best way they can, generally in ships bound from New Orleans to the southern states, and from thence 76 TRAVELS THROUGH NOUTH AMERICA: home bv land. Novv^ if the passage from iht Ohio to the Patowmac is opened^ it cannot be supposed that the people in Pittsburgh and the vicinity will continue thus to send the produce down to Orleans^ from whence they cannot bring any thing in return ; they will naturally send to the federal city^ from whence they can draw the supplies they are in want of^ and which is so much nearer to them^ that wheu the navigation is perfected it will be possible to go there and back again in the same time that it requires merely to go down to New Orleans. But although the people of that country which borders upon the Ohio and its waters, in the vicinage of Pittsburgh^ may have an in- terest in trading to the federal city, yet those who live towards the mouth of that river will find an interest equally great in trading to New Orleans^ for the Ohio River is no less than eleven hundred and eighty-three milesin length. How far down upon the Ohio a commercial intercourse will be kept up with the city, will most probably be determined by other cir- cumstances than that of distance alone ; it may depend upon the demand there may be at one or other port for particular articles, &c. &c. ; it may also depend upon the season ; for at re- gular periods there are floods in the Missis- sippi, and also in the Ohio^ which i]nig,ke a FLOODS AND EDDIES. 77 great difference in the time of ascending and descending these rivers. The floods in the Mississippi are occasioned by the dissohition of the immense bodies of snow and ice accumu^ lated during winter in those northern regions through which the river passes ; they are also very regular;, beginning in the month of March and subsiding in July. Those in the Ohio take place between Christmas and May ; but they are not regular and steady like those of the Mississippi^ for the water rises and falls many times in the course of the season. These floods are occasioned by heavy falls of rain in the beginning of winter^, as well as by tl>e thawing of the ice. The Mississippi has a very winding course^^ and at every bend there is an eddy in the water. These eddies are always strongest during the inundations^ congequc.ntly it is then a much less difficult task to ascend the river. * In the year as a party of Canadians v^-jere going down the river^ they found at one place such a bend in it, that, although the distance across land;, from one part of the river to the other, was not more perhaps than two hundred yards, yet by water it was no less than forty miles. The Canadians cut a trench across the land for curiosity. The soil bordering* upon the Mississippi is remarkably rich and soft, and the cur- rent being strong, the river in a short time forced a new pass- age for itself, and the Canadians took their boat through it. This place is called Pointe Coupee. There are many similar bends in tke river at present, but none so grejit. 78 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : With the Ohio, however, it is directly the re- verse ; there are no eddies in the river ; where- fore floods are found to facilitate the passage downwards, but to render that against the stream difficult. Sup])Osing, however, the season favourable for the navigation of the Mississippi, and also for the navigation of the Ohio, w hich it might well be at the same time, then Louisville, in Kentucky, is the place through which the line may be drawn that will separate as nearly as possible the country naturally connected with Washington from that appertaining to New Orleans. It takes twenty days, on an average, at the most favourable season, to go from Louisville to New Orleans, and to return, forty; which in the whole makes sixty days. From the rapids in the Ohio, close to which Louisville is situated, to Pittsburgh, the distance is seven hundred and three miles ; so that at the rate of thirty miles a day, w hich is a moderate computation, it w ould require twenty-four days to go there. From Pittsburgh to the Patow^mac the distance is one hundred and sixty miles against the stream, which at the same rate, and allowing time for the portages, would take seven days more, and two hundred and ninety miles down the Patow- mac, at sixty miles per day, w ould require five days : this is allowing thirty-five days for going, and computing the time for returning at the NATIGATIONS. 79 iame rate^ that is thirty miles against the stream, and sixty miles with the stream, each day, it would amount to twenty- five days, which, added to the time of going, makes in the whole fifty- nine days; if the odd day be allowed for con- tingencies, the passage to and from the two places would then be exactly alike. It is fair then to conclude, that if the demand at the federal city for country produce be equally great as at New Orleans, and there is no rea- son to say why it should not, the w hole of the produce of that country, which lies contiguous to the Ohio, and the rivers falling into it, as far down as Louisville in Kentucky, will be sent to the former of these places. This tract is seven hundred miles in length, and from one hundred to two hundred miles in breadth. Added to this, the whole of that country lying- near the Alleghany River, and the streams that run into it, must naturally be supplied from the city; a great part of the country bor- dering upon Lake Erie, near Presqu' Isle, may likew ise be included. Considering the vastness of the territory, which is thus opened to the federal cuy by means of a w ater communication; considering that it is capable, from the fertility of its soil, of maintaining- three times the number of in- habitants that are to be found at present in all the L^nited States; and that it is advancing at 80 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: the present time more rapidly in population than any other part of the \\'hole continent ; there is a good foundation for thinking that the federal city^ as soon as the navigation is per- fected^ will increase most rapidly; and that at a future da}', if the affairs of the United States s go on as prosperously as they have done^ it I will l)ecome the grand emporium of the west,, j and rival in magnitude and splendour the cities I of the old world. The city is laid out on a neck of land he- tween the forks formed by the eastern and western, or main brarich of Patowmac River. This neck of land, together with an adjacent territory, which is in the whole ten miles square, was ceded to congress by the states of Mary- land and Virginia. The ground on which the city immediately stands was the property of private individuals, who readily relinquished their claim to one half of it in favour of con- gress, conscious that the value of what was left to thera would increase, and amply com- pensate them for their loss. The profits arising from the sale of that part which has thus been ceded to congress will be suffi- cient, it is expected, to pay for the public buildings, for the watering of the city, and also for paving and lighting of the streets. The plan of the city was drawn by a French- man of the name of L'Enfant, and is on a _,£^'-crrrp,— rpi-rpTrrrr^^rr nr,-,~-^rrrrrrrr Fv^r^n ,rn ■ /-rrrrrrrrrrr i~rrrrrrrrrr':-rr p, .;;r rrrr-.:'''-':rrrrrrr r \ . srrrr \ , , . rrr'^.'-rr ^ryf- r rr/rrrrrrrr,- r Kr-rr- -rrrr.Tirr- ■ i CITY OF WASHINGTON* 81 scale well suited to the extent of the country^ one thousand two hundred miles in lengthy and one thousand in breadth, of which it is to be the metropolis ; for the ground already marked otit for it is no less than fourteen miles in circumference. The streets run nortli> south> east^ and west ; but to prevent that sameness necessarily ensuing from the streets all crossing each other at right angles^ a number of avenues are laid out in different parts of the city^ which run transversely; and in several places, where these avenues in- tersect each other, are to be hollow squares. The streets, which cross each other at right angles, are from ninety to one hundred feet wide, the avenues one hundred and sixty feet. One of these is named after each state, and a hollow square also allotted to each, as a suitable place for statues, columns, &c. which, at a future period, the people of any one of these states may wish to erect to the me- mory of great men that may appear in the country. On a small eminence, due west of the capitol, is to be an equestrian statue of General Washington. The capitol is now building upon the most elevated spot gf ground in the city, which happens to be in a very central situation. From this spot there is a very complete view of every part of the cit}'^, and also of ih^ ad- VOL. I. Q 82 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH ABIERICA : jacent country. In the capitol are to be spacious apartments for the accommodation of congress; in it also are to be the princi- pal public ofiices in the executive department of the government^ together with the court* of justice. The plan on which this building is begun is grand and extensive ; the expence of building it is estimated at a million of dol- lars, equal to two hundred and twenty-five thousand pounds sterling. The house for the residence of the president stands north-west of the capitol;, at the distance of about one mile and a half. It is situated upon a rising ground not far from the Pa- towmac,, and commands a most beautiful pros- pect of the river^ and of the rich country be- yond it. One hundred acres of ground, to- wards the river, are left adjoining to the house for pleasure grounds. South of this there is to be a large park or mall, which is to run in an easterly direction from the river to the capitol. The buildings on either side of this mall are all to be elegant in their kind ; amongst the number it is proposed to have houses built at the public expence for the accommodation of the foreign ministers, &c. On the eastern branch a large spot is laid I out for a marine hospital and gardens. Va- rious other parts are appointed for churches, theatres, colleges^ &c. The ground ia ge- iierd, within the limits of the city> is agrees ably undulated ; but none of the risings are so great as to become objects of inconvenience in a town. The soil is chiefly of a yellow ish clay mixed with gravel. There are numbers of excellent springs in the city^ and water is readily had in most places by digging wells. Here are two streams likewise^ wltich run through the city^ Reedy Branch and Tiber Creek The perpendicular height of the source of the latter^ above the level of the tide^ is two hundred and thirty-six feet. By the regulations published, it was settled that all the houses should be built of brick or stone ; the walls to be thirty feet high, and to be built parallel to the line of the street, but either upon it or withdrawn from it, as suited the taste of the builder. How^ ever, numbers of wooden habitations have been built ; but the different owners have all been cautioned against considering them as perma- nent. They are to be allowed for a certain * Upon the granting possession of waste lands to any per- son, commonly called the location of lands> it is usual to give particular names to different spots, and also to the creeks and rivers. On the anginal location of the ground now allotted for the seat of the federal city, this creek received the name of Tiber Creek, and the identical spot of ground on which the capit(i{ the water near the • shor^. There 'are 96 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA ! several other favourite situations, the choice of any one of which is a mere matter of spe- culation at present. Some build near the ca- pitol as the most convenient place for the residence of members of congress, some near the president's house ; others again prefer the west end of the city, in the neighbourhood of George Town, thinking that as trade is al- ready established in that place, it must be from thence that it will extend into the city. Were the houses that have been built situated in one place all together, they would make a very respectable appearance^ but scattered about as they are, a spectator can scarcely pei'ceive any thing like a town. Excepting the streets ^nd avenues, and a small part of the ground ad* joining the public buildings, the whole place is covered with trees. To be under the ne- cessity of going through a deep wood for one or two miles, perhaps, in order to see a next door neighbour, and in the same city, is a cu- rious, and, I believe, a novel circumstance* The number of inhabitants in the city, in the spring of 1796, amounted to about five thou- sand, including artificers, who formed by far the largest part of that number. Numbers of strangers ^re continually passing and re- passing through a place which affords such an extensive field for speculation. In additioa to what has already been gai4 CITY OF TTASHINaTON. 87 ^pon the subject^ I have only to observe^ that notwithstanding all that has been done at the city, and the large sums of money which have been expended^ there are numbers of people in the United States, living to the north of the PatowmaC:, particularly in Philadelphia^, who are still very adverse to the removal of the seat of government thither^ and are doing all in their power to check the progress of all the build- ings in the city^, and to prevent the congress from meeting there at the appointed time. In the spring of 1706, when I was last on the spot, the building of the capitol was absolutely at a stand for want of money; the public lots were at a very low jJrice, and the commissioners were unwilling to dispose of them ; in conse- quence they made an application to con- gress, praying the house to guaranty a loan of three hundred thousand dollars, without which they could not go on with the public buildings, except they disposed of the lots to great dis- advantage, and to the ulfimale injury of the city; so strong, however, was the opposition, that the petition was suffered to lie on the table unattended to for many weeks ; nor was the prayer of it complied with until a number of gentlemen, that were very deeply interested in the improvement of the city, went round to the diiferent members, and made interest with them in person to gi^^e their assent to th^ 8 88 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA! measure. Those people^ who are opposed to the building of the city of Washington^ maintain that it can never become a town of any im- portance, and that all such as think to the contrary have been led astray by the represen- tations of a few enthusiastic persons ; they go so far even as to assert, that the people to the eastward will never submit to see the seat of government removed so far from them^ and the congress assembled in a place little better than a forest^ where it will be impossible to procure information upon commercial points; finally, they insist^ that if the removal from Philadelphia should take place^ a separation of the states will inevitably follow. This is the language held forth ; but their opposition in reality arises from that jealousy which narrow minded people in trade are but too apt to en- tertain of each other when their interests clash together. These people wish to crush the city of Washington while it is yet in its infancy, because they know, that if the seat of govern- ment is transferred thither, the place will thrive^ and enjoy a considerable portion of that trade w hich is centered at present in Philadel- phia, Baltimore^ and New York. It is idle, however, to imagine that this will injure their different towns ; on the contrary, although a portion of that trade which they enjoy at pre- sent should be drawn from them, yet the in* ' DISCONTENTS. ^ crease of population in that part of the coun- trj:, which they must naturally supply^ will be such, that their trade on the whole will, in all probability, be found far more extensive after the federal city is established than it ever was before. A large majority^ however, of the people in the United States is desirous that the removal of the seat of government should take place at the appointed time. The discontents in- deed, which an opposite measure would give rise to in the south could not but be alarming, and if they did not occasion a total separation of the southern from the northern states, yet they would certainly materially destroy that harmony which has hitherto existed between them. ^ TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA t LETTER V. Some Account of Alexandria, — Mount Vernon^ the Seat of General WasMngton, — BifficuUy of finding the Way thither through the Woods. — Descfiption of the Mount, and of the Views from it, — Description of the House and Grounds.^ — Slaves at Mount Vernon.-^ Thoughts thereon, — A Person at Mount Ver- non to attend to Strangers. —Return to Wash- ington. MY DEAR SIR, Washington, December. FROM Washington I proceeded to Alex- andria^ $even miles lower down the river, which is one of the neatest towns in the United States. The houses are mostly brick, and many of them are extremely well built. The streets intersect each other at right angles; they are commodious and well paved. Nine miles below this place, on the banks of the Patowmac, stands Mount Vernon, the seat of General Washington ; the w ay to it, however, from Alexandria, by land, is considerably far^ ther, on account of the numerous creeks which fall into the Patowmac, and the mouths of which it is impossible to pass near to. Very thick woods remain standing within four or five niiles of the place ; the roads MOUNT VERNON. 91 through them are very bad, and so many of them cross one another in different directions, that it is a matter of very great difficulty to find out the right one. I set out from Alex- andria with a gentleman who thought himself perfectly well acquainted with the way ; had he been so, there was ample time to have reached Mount Vernon before the close of the day, but night overtook us wandering about in the woods. We did not perceive the ves- tige of a human being to set us right, and we were preparing to pass the night in the car- riage, when luckily a light appeared at some distance through the trees ; it was from a small farm-house, the only one in the way for several miles ; and having made our way to it, partly in the carriage, partly on foot, we hired a ne- gro for a guide, who conducted us to the place of our destination in about an hour. The next morning 1 heard of a gentleman, who, a day or two preceding, had been from ten o'clock in the morning till four in the afternoon on horseback, unable to find out the place, al- though within three or four miles of it the whole time, The Mount is a high part of the bank of the river, which rises very abruptly about two hundred feet above the level of the water, The river before it is three miles wide, and on the opposite side it fornxs a bay about the 92 TRAVELS THROUGH KORTH AMERICA: same breadth, which extends for a considerable distance up the countrj. This^ at first sight, appears to be a continuation of the river ; but tlie Patowmac takes a very sudden turn to the left^ two or three miles above the house, and is quickly lost to the view. Down- wards, to the right, there is a prospect of it for twelve miles. The Maryland shore, on the opposite side, is beautifully diversified with hills, which are mostly covered with wood ; in many places, however, little patches of culti- vated pTound appear, ornamented with houses. The scenery altogether is most delightful. Tli€ house, which stands about sixty yards from the edge of the Mount, is of wood, cut and painted so as to resemble hew^n stone. The rear is towards the river, at which side is a portico of ninety-six feet in length, supported by eight pillars. The front is uniform, and at a distance looks tolerably well. The dwell- ing house is in the centre, and communicates with the wings on either side, by means of covered ways, running in a curved direction. Behind these wings, on the one side, are the different offices belonging to the house, and also to the farm, and on the other, the cabins for the Slaves In front, the breadth of the These are amongst the first of the buildings which are eeen on coming to Mount Vernon 3 and it is not without astonishment and regret they are suiTeyed by . the sti-anger^ / y. j^fht, by J. Stodcd/xle, RcradttLy . MOUNT VERNON. 93 whole building, is a lawn with a gravel walk round it, planted with trees^ and separated by wliose mind has dv/elt with admiration upon the inestimable blessings of liberty^ whilst approzfching the residence of that man who has distinguisl^ed himself so gloriously in its cause. Happy would it have been> if the man who stood forth the, champion of a nation contending for its freedom, and whose declaration to the whole world was, That all men were created equal, and that they were endowed by their Cre-- ator with certain unalienable rights, amongst the first or which were life, liberty, ami the pursuit of happiness happy would it have been,, if this m^m could have been the first to v/ave all interested views, to liberate his own slaves, and thus convince the people he had fought for, thai It was their duty, when they had established their own independ- ance, to give freedom to those \shom they had themselves heid in bondage I ! liat material objections, we must suppose, appeared against such a measure,, otherwise, doubtless. General Washingtoi> would have shewn the glorious example. Perhaps he thought it more for the general good, that the first step for emanc,'- pation of slaves should be taken by the legislative assembh : or perhaps there was reason to apprehend, that the enfran-- chisement of his own slaves might be the cause of insurrectiori amongst others v/ho were not liberated, a matter which could not but be attended with evil consequences in a country where the number of slaves exceeded that of freemen 5 how- ever, it does not appear that any measures have been pursued,, either by private individuals or by the legislature in Virginia, for the abolition of slavery ^ neither have any steps been taken for the purpose iu Maryland, much less in the more southern states 5 but in Pennsylvania and the rest, laws have passed for its gradual abolition. Iu these states the number of slaves, it is true, was very small, and the measure was therefore easily carried into effect ^ in the others then it wiil 94 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : hedges on either side from the farm yard and garden. As for the garden^ it wears exactly the appearance of a nursery, and with every thing about the place indicates that more at- tention ns paid to profit than to pleasure. The however^ was au unusual circumstance. In Maryland^ before December was over^ there were a few cold days^ and during Janu- ary we had two or three different falls of snow; but for the most part the weather re- mained very mild until the latter end of Janu- ary^ when a sharp north-west wind set in. The keenness of this wind in winter is prodigi- ous, and surpasses every thing of the kind which we have an idea of in England. When- ever it blows, during the winter months, a frost immediately takes place. In the course of three days, in the present instance, the Susquehannah and Delaw are rivers were frozen over; a fall of snow took place, which remain- ed on the ground about two feet deep, and there was every appearance of a severe and te- dious winter. Before five days, how ever, wer^ over, the wind again changed, and so sudden was the thaw that the snow disappeared en- tirely on the second day, and not a vestige of the frost was to be seen, excepting in the ri- vers, where large pieces of ice remained float- ing about. It was about the middle of December whea I reached Baltimore ; but I was deterred from going on to Philadelphia, until the frosty weather should set in, by the badness of the VOL, I, H 98 TRAVELS f HROUGH NORTH AMERICA : roads ; for they were in such a state^, that even the public stages were prevented from plying for the space of ten or twelve days. The frost soon dried them^ and rendered them as good as in summer. I set out when it was most severe. At day breaks the morning after I left Balti- morC;, the thermometer, according to Fahrenheit.^ stood at 7^ I never observed it so low during any other part of the winter. Several travellers had stopped at the same house that I did the first night I was on the road, and we all breakfasted together prepara- tory to setting out the next morning. The American travellers, before they pursued their journey, took a hearty draught each, according to custom, of egg-nog, a mixture composed of new milk, eggs, rum, and sugar, beat up toge- ther; they appeared to be at no small pains also in fortifying themselves against the se- verity of thfi weather with great coats and wrappers over each other, woollen socks and trowsers over their boots, woollen mittens over their gloves, and silk handkerchiefs tied over their ears and mouths, &c. &o that nothing could be seen excepting their noses and their eyes. It was absolutely a subject of diversion to me, and to a young gentleman just arrived from the West Indies, who accompanied me from Baltimore, to see the great care w ith which they wrapped themselves up^ for we INTENSE COLD. 99 both found ourselves sufficiently warm in common clothing. It seems, however, to be a matter generally allowed, that strangers, even from the West Indies, unaccustomed to intense cold, do not suffer so much from the severity of the winter, the first year of their arrival in America, as the white people who have been born in the country. Every person that we met upon the road was wrapped up much in the same maimer as the travellers who break- fasted with us, and had siik handkerchiefs tied round their heads^ so as to cover their mouths and ears. About the middle of the day we arrived at the Susquehannah, and, as we expected to find it, the river was frozen entirely over. In what manner we were to get across was now the question. The people at the ferry-house were of opinion that the ice was not suffi- ciently strong to bear in every part of the river; at the same time they said^ it was so very thick near the shores, that it would be impracticable to cut a passage through it be- fore the day was over; however, as a great number of travellers desirous of getting across was collected together, and as all of them were much averse to remaining at the ferry- house till the next morning, by which time it was supposed that the ice would be strong enough to bear in every part, the people wer^ H g 100 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : at last over-ruled^ and every thing was pre- pared for cutting a way across the river. The passengers were about twelve in num- ber^ with four horses ; the boat's crew con- sisted of seven blacks ; three of whom^, with large clubs^ stood upon the bow of the boat, and broke the ice^ whilst the others, with iron-headed poles, pushed the boat forwards. So very laborious was the task which the men at the bow had to perform, that it w as necessary for the others to relieve them every ten minutes. At the end of half an hour thgir hands, arms, faces, and hats, were glazed entirely over with a thick coat of ice, formed from the water which was dashed up by the reiterated strokes of their clubs. Two hours elapsed before one half of the way was broken ; the ice was found much thicker than had been imagined; the clubs were shivered to pieces; the men were quite exhausted ; and having suffered the boat to remain stationary for a minute or two in a part where the ice was remarkably thick, it was frozen up, so that the utmost exertions of the crew and passen- gers united were unable to extricate it. In this predicament a council was held ; it was impossible to move either backward or for- ward ; the boat was half a mile from the shore ; no one would attempt to walk there the ice; to remain all night in the boat THE SUSQL^EHANNAH. 101 %vould be death. Luckily I had a pair of pistols in my holsters,, and having fired a few signals, the attention of the people on shore was at- tracted towards us, and a small batteau, which is a light boat with a flat bottom, was dis- patched for our relief. This was not sent, liowever, for the purpose of bringing a single person back again, but to assist us in getting to the opposite shore. It was slipped along ahead of the large boat, and two or three men having stepped into it, rocked it about from side to side until the ice was suiFiciently broken for the large boat to follow. The bat- teau was now in the w ater, and the men seat- ing themselves as much as possible towards the stern, by so doing raised the bow of it considerably above the ice ; by means of boat- hooks it was then pulled on the ice again, arid by rocking it about as before a passage was as easily opened. In this manner we got on, and at the end of three hours and ten minutes found ourselves again upon dry land, fully pre- pared for enjoying the pleasures of a bright fireside a.nd a good dinner. The people at the tavern had seen us coming across, and had accordingly prepared for our reception ; and as each individual thought he had travelled quite far enough that day, the passengers remained together till the next piorningo 102 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: At the American taverns^ as I before men- tioned^ all sorts of people^ just as they happen to arrive^ are crammed together into one room, where they must reconcile themselves to each other the best way they can. On the present occasion, the company consisted of about thirteen people, amongst .whom were some eminent lawyers from Virginia and the southward:, together with a judge of the su- preme court, who were going to Philadel- phia against the approaching sessions : it was not, however, till after I quitted their com- pany that I heard who they were ; for these kind of gentlemen in America are so very plain, both in their appearance and manners, that a stranger would not suspect that they were persons of the consequence which they yeally are in the country. There w^ere also in the company two or three of the neigh- bouring farmers, boorish, ignorant, and ob- trusive fellows. It is scarcely possible for a dozen Americans to sit together without i]^uarrelling about politics ; and the British treaty, which had just been ratified, now gave rise to a long and acrimonious debate. The farmers were of one opinion, and gab- bled away for a l^ng time ; the lawyers and the judge were of another, and in turns they rose to answer their opponents with all the DISPUTATIONS. 103 power of rhetoric which they possessed. Neither party could say any thing to change the sentiments of the other one ; the noisy con- test lasted till late at night, when getting heartily tired they withdrew, not to their re- spective chambers, but to the general one that held five or six beds, and in which they laid down in pairs. Here the conversation was again revived, and pursued with as much noise as below, till at last sleep closed their eyes, and happily their mouths at the same time ; for could they have talked in their sleep, I verily believe they would have prated on until morn- ing. Thanks to our stars ! my friend and I got the only two-bedded room in the house to ourselves. The next morning I left the banks of the Susquehannah ; and the succeed- ing day reached Philadelphia. • 104 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA ; LETTER VII. Pliiladelpliia gayer in the Winter than at anit other Season. — Celebration in that City of General Washington's Birth Day. — Some Account of General Washington's Person and of his Character. — Americans dissatisfied with Ids Conduct as President.- — A Spirit of Dissatisfaction common amongst tliem. MY DEAR SIR, Philadelphia, Februaiy. PHILADELPHIA now wears a very dif- ferent aspect to what it did when I landed there in the month of November. Both congress and the state assembly are sittings as well as the supreme federal court. The city is full of strangers ; the theatres are open ; and a variety of public and private amusements are going forward. On General Washington's birth day, which was a few days ago^ this city was unusually gay every per- * On this day (^neral Washington terminated his sixty- fourth year; but though not an unhealthy man, he seemed considerably older. The innumerable vexations he has met with in his different public capacities have very sensibly im- paired the vigour of his constitution, and given him an aged appeal ance. There is a very material diiference^ however, i n his looks when seen in private and v/hen he appears in public full drest in the latter case the hand of art makes up for tlie ravages of time, and he seems many years younger. Few persons find tliempelves for the first time in the pre- sence of General ^Yashingf on^ a man so renowned in the pre- GENERAL WASHINGTON. 105 son of consequence in it^ Quakers alone ex- cepted^ made it a point to visit the General on sent day for his wisdom and moderation, and whose name 'will be transmitted with such honom* to posterity, without being impressed with a certain degree of veneration and awe^ nor do these emotions subside on a closer acquaintance 3 on the contrary, his person and deportment are such as rather tend to augment them. There is something very austere in his countenance, and in his manners he is uncommoly re- served. 1 have heard some officers, that served immediately under his command during the American war, say, that they never saw him smile during all the time that they were with him. No man has ever yet been connected with him by the reciprocal and unconstrained ties of friendship j and but a few can boast even of having been on an easy and familiar footing with him. The height of his person is about five feet eleven 3 his- chest is full ; and his limbs, thoiigh rather slender, well- shaped, and muscular. His head is small, in which respect he resembles the make of a great number of his countrymen^ His eyes are of a light grey colour ; and, in proportion to the length of his face, his nose is long. Mr. Stewart, the emi- nent portrait painter, told me, tliat there are features in his face totally different from what he ever observed in that of of any other human being 5 the sockets of the eyes, for in- stance, are larger than what he ever met with before, and the upper part of the nose broader. All his features, he ob- served, were indicative of the strongest and most ungovern- able passions, and had he been born in the forests, it was his opinion that he would have been the fiercest man amongst the savage tribes. In this Mr. Stewart has given a proof of bis great discernment and intimate knowledge of the human countenance 5 for although General Washington has been extolled for his great moderation and calmness, during the very trying situations in which he has so often been placed, yet those who have been acquainted witii him the longest 106 TRATELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA! this d^y. As early as eleven o'clock in the morning he was prepared to receive ihem^ and most intimately, say, that he_ is by nature a man of a fierce and irritable disposition^ but that^ like Socrates, his judgment and great self-command have always made him appear a man of a different cast in the eyes of the world. He speaks with great diffidence, and sometimes hesitates for a word ^ but it is always to find one particularly well adapted to hi^ meaning. His langu^ige is manly and ex- pressive. At levee, his discourse with strangers turns prin- cipally upon the subjeci of America j and if they have been through any remarkable places, his conversation is free and particularly interesting, as he is intimately acquainted with every part of the country. He is much more open and free in his behaviour at levee than in private, and in the com-, pany of ladies still more so than when solely with men. General Washington gives no public dinners or other en- tertainments, except to those who are in diplomatic capa- cities, and to a few families on terms of intimacy with Mrs. Washington. Strangers, v/ith whom he wishes to have some conversation about agriculture, or any such subject, are sometimes invited to tea. This by many is attributed to his saving disposition but it is more just to ascribe it to his prudence and foresight ; for as the salary of the presi- dent, as I have before observed, is very small, and totally - inadequate by itself to support an expensive style of life, Vv^ere he to give numerous and splendid entertainments, the same might possibly be expected from subsequent presi- dents, who, if their private fortunes were not considerable, would be unable to live in the same style, and might be exposed to many ill-natured observations, from the relin- quishment of what the people had been accustomed to ; it ie most likely also that General Washington has been actu- ated by these motives, because in his private capacity at Mount Vernon every stranger meets with a hospitable recep- tion from bio?.. General GENERAL WASHINGTON, 107 and the audience lasted till three in the after- noon. The society of the Cincinnati, the clergy, the officers of the militia, and several others, who formed a distinct body of citizeoSj, came by themselves separately. The foreign ministers attended in their richest dresses and most splendid equipages. Two large parlours were open for the reception of the gentlemen^ the windows of one of which towards the street were crowded with spectators on the outside. The sideboard was furnished with cake and wines, whereof the visitors partook. I never observed so much cheerfulness before in the countenance of General Washington ; but it was impossible for him to remain insensible to the attention and the compliments paid to him on this occasion. The ladies of the city, equally attentive, paid their respects to Mrs. Washington, who receiv- ed them in the drawing room up stairs. After having visited the General, most of the gentle- men also waited upon her. A public ball and supper terminated the rejoicings of the daj^ General Washington's self-moderation is well known to the world already. It is a remarkable circumstance^, which redounds to his eternal honour, that while president of the United States he never appointed one of his own relations to any office of trust or emolument^ although he has several that are men of abilities, and well qualified to fill the most important stations in the government. 108 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA. Not one town of any importance was there in the whole union^ where some meeting did not take place in honour of this day ; yet singular as it may appear, there are people in the country^ Americans too, foremost in boast- ing to other nations of that constitution, which has been raised for them by his xalour and wisdom, who are either so insensible to his merit, or so totally devoid of every generous sentiment, that they can refuse to join in com- mendations of those talents to which they are so much indebted ; indeed to such a length has this perverse spirit been carried, that I have myself seen numbers of men, in all other points men of respectability, that have per- emptorily refused even to pay him the small compliment of drinking to his health after dinner ; it is true indeed, that they qualify their conduct partly by asserting, that it is only as president of the United States, and not as General Washington, that they have a dis- like to him; but this is on]}^ a mean subter- fuge, which they are forced to have recourse to, lest their conduct should appear too strongly marked with ingratitude. During the war there were many, and not loyalists either, who were doing all in their power to remove him from that command whereby he so emi- nently dsstinguished himself. It is the spirit of dissatisfaction which forms a leading trait in 109 the character of the Americans as a people^ which produces this malevolence at present, just as it did formerly ; and if their public af- fairs were regulated by a person sent from heaven, I firmly believe his acts, instead of meeting with universal approbation, would by j many be considered as deceitful and flagitious. I LETTER VIIL Singular Mildness of the Winter of 1795-6.— Set out for Lancaster, — Turnpike Road ie- tweeii that Place and Philadelphia. — Sum- mary View of the State of Pennsylvania, — - Description of the Farms between Lancaster and Philadelphia. — The Farmers live in a penurious Style. — Greatly inferior to English Farmers. — Bad Taverns on this Road, — Waggons and Waggoners. — Customs of the latter. — Description of Lancaster, — Lately made the Seat of the State Government. — Manufactures carried 07i there. — Rifie Guns. — Great Dexterity with which the Americans use them. — Anecdote of two Virginian Sol- diers belonging to a Rife Regiment. j MY DEAR SIR, Lancaster, Tvlarch. THIS v/inter has proved one of the mildest that has ever been experienced in the country. During the last month there were two or three 110 trave;ls through north America : slight falls of snoWj but in no one instance did it remain two days on the ground. A smart frost set in, the first week of this months and snow fell to tlie depth of six or seven inches; but on the third day a sudden thaw came on^ and it quickly disappeared : since then the weather has remained uncommonly mild. The season being so fine^ and so favourable for tra- velling, I was unwilling to stay at Philadel- phia; accordingly I set out for this place on horseback, and arrived here last nighty at the end of the second day's journey. From hence I intend to proceed towards the souths to meet the approaching spring. The road between Philadelphia and Lan- caster has lately undergone a thorough repair^ and tolls are levied upon it, to keep it in order, iindejc the direction of a company. When- ever these tolls afford a profit of more than jSfteen per cent, on the stock originally sub- scribed for making the road, the company is bound, by an act of assembly^, to lessen them. This is the first attempt to have a turnpike load in Pennsylvania, and it is by no means relished by the people at large, particularly by the waggoners, who go in great numbers by this route to Philadelphia from the back parts of the state. The state of Pennsylvania lies nearly in the form of a parallelogram^ whose greatest length ROADS. Ill is from east to west. This parallelogram is crossed diagonally from the north-east to the south-west by several different ridges of mountains^ which are about one hundred miles in breadth. The valleys between these ridges contain a rich black soil^ and in the south- west and north-east angles also^ at the outside of the mountains^ the soil is very good. The northern parts of this state are but very thinly inhabited as yet^ but towards the souths the whole way from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh^, it is well settled. The mo?t populous part of it is the south-east corner^ which lies between the mountains and the river Delaware; through this part the turnpike road passes which leads to Lancaster. The country on each side of the road is pleasingly diversified with hill and dale. Cultivation is chielly confined to the low lands^ which are the richest ; the hills are all left covered with wood^ and afford a pleas- ing variety to the eye. The further you go from Philadelphia the more fertile is the coun- try^ and the more picturesqoi! at the same time. On the whole road from Philadelphia ta Lancaster^ there are not any two dwellings standing together^ excepting at a small place culled Downing s Town^ which lies about mid- way ; nmnbers of farm houses^ however, ar^ scattered over the country as far as the eye 4 112 TRAVELS THROUGH l^ORTH AMERICA t can reach. These houses are mostly built of stone^ and are about as good as those usually met with on an arable farm of fifty acres iii a well cultivated part of England. The farms attached to these houses contain about two hundred acres each, and are, with a few exceptions only^ the property of the persons who cultivate them. In the cultivated parts of Pennsylvania the farms rarely exceed three hundred acres; towards the north, however, where the settlements are \)ut few, large tracts of land are in the hands of individuals, who are speculators and land jobbers. Adjoining to the houses there is generally a peach or an apple orchard. With the fruit they make cyder and brandy ; the people have a method also of drying the peaches and apples, after having sliced them, in the sun, and thus cured they last all the year round. They are used for pies and puddings, but they have a very acrid taste^ and scarcely any of the original flavour of the fruit. The peaches in their best state are but indilferent, being small and dry ; I never eat any that were good, excepting such as were raised with care in gardens. It is said that the climate is so much altered, that they will not grow now as they formerly did. In April and May nightly frosts are very com- mon, which were totally unknown formerly, and frequently the peaches are entirely blighted. FARMS. 113 Gardens are very rare in the country parts of Pennsylvania^ for the farmers think the labour which they require does not afford sufficient profit; in the neighbourhood of towns^ how- ever, they are common^ and the culinary ve- getables raised in them^, are equal to any of their respective kinds in the worlds potatoes excepted^ which generally have an earthy un- pleasant taste. Though the south-east part of the state of Pennsylvania is better cultivated than any other part of America^ yet the style of farm- ing is on the whole very slovenly. I venture^ indeed^ to assert^ that the farmers do not raise more on their tw o hundred acres than a skil- ful farmer in Norfolk^ Suffolk^, or Essex^ or in any well cultivated part ©f England^ would do on fifty acres of good land there. The far- mer also^ who rents fifty acres of arable land in England, lives far more comfortably in every respect than the farmer in Pennsylvania, or in any other of the middle states, who owns two hundred acres of land ; his house will be found better furnished, and his table more plentifully covered. That the farmers do not live better in America, I hardly know l^hether to ascribe to their love of making money, or to their real indifference about bet- ter fare; perhaps it may be owing, in some TOL. I, I 114 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: measure, to both ; certain it is however^ that their mode of living is most wretched. The taverns throughout this part of the country are kept bj farmers^ and they are all very indifferent. If the traveller can procure a few eggs with a little bacon^ he ought to rest satisfied ; it is twenty to one that a bit of fresh meat is to be had^ or any salted meat except pork. Vegetables seem also to be very scarce ; and when you do get any, they ge- nerally consist of turnips, or turnip tops boiled by way of greens. The bread is heavy and sour, though they have as fine flour as any in the world : this is owing to their method of making it ; they raise it with what they call sots — ^hops and water boiled together. No dependance is to be placed upon getting a man at these taverns to rub down your horse^ or even to give him his food; frequently there- fore you will have to do every thing of the kind for yourself, if you do not travel with a servant ; and indeed^, even where men are kept for the purpose of attending to travellers^ which at some of the taverns is the case, they are so sullen and disobliging that you feel inclined to do every thing with your- own hands, rather than be indebted to them for their assistance : they always appear doubtful whe- ther they should do any thing for you or not^ •WAGGONS. 115 and to be reasoning within themselves, \vhe- ther it is not too great a departure from the rules of equality to take the horse of another man^ and whether it would not be a pleasing sight to see a gentleman strip off his coat,, and go to work for himself; nor will money maka them alter their conduct ; civility^ as I before said;, is not to be purchased at any expence in America ; nevertheless the people will pocket yourmoney wdtli the utmost readiness, though without thanking you for it. Of all beings on the earth, Americans are the most interested (ind covetous. It is scarcely possible to go one mile on this road without meeting numbers of wag- gons passing and repassing between the back parts of the state and Philadelphia. These waggons are commonly drawn by four or five hordes, four of which are yoked in pairs. The waggons are heavy^ the horses small, and the driver unmerciful ; the consequence of which is, that in every team, n earlj^ there is a horse either lame or blind. The Peunsvlvanians are notorious for the bad care which thev take of their horses. Excepting the night be tempes- tuous^ the waggoners never put their horses under shelter, and then it is only under a shed ■ ^ each tavern is usually provided with a large one for the purpose. Market or High-street^ Philadelphia, the street by which these peo- i3 116 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA! pie come into the town^ is always crowded with waggons and horses^ that are left stand- ing there all night. This is to save money ; the expence of putting them into a stable^ would be too greats in the opinion of these people. Food for the horses is always carried in the waggon^, and the moment they stop they are unyoked^, and fed whilst they are warm. By this treatment^ half the poor animals are foundered. The horses are fed out of a large trough carried for the purpose^ and fixed on the pole of the waggon by means of iron pins. Lancaster is the largest inland town in North America^ and contains about nine hun- dred houses^ built chiefly of brick and stone^ together with six churches^ a court house, and gaol. Of the churches^ there is one respec- tively for German Lutherans^ German Cal- vinists, Moravians^ English Episcopalians, and lloman Catholics. The streets are laid out regularly^ and cross each other at right angles. An act of assembly has been passed, for making this town the seat of the state govern- ment instead of Philadelphia, and the assembly was to meet in the year 1797. This circum- stance is much in favour of the improvement of the town. The Philadelphians, inimical to the measure, talked .of it much in the same RIFLE GUNS. 117 style that they do now of the removal of the seat of the federal government^ saying, that it must be again changed to Philadelphia; but the necessity of having the seat of the le- gislature as central as possible in each state is obvious^ and if a change does take place again^ it is most likely that it will only be to remove the seat still farther from Philadelphia. On the same principle^, the assembly of Virginia meets now at Richmond instead of Williams- burgh^ and that of New York state, at Albany instead of the city of New York. Several different kinds of articles are ma- nufactured at Lancaster by German mecha- nics, individually^, principally for the people of the town and the neighbourhood. Rifled bar- rel guns however are to be excepted, which, although not as handsome as those im- ported from England, are more esteemed by the hunters, and are sent to every part of the country. The rifled barrel guns, commonly used in America, are nearly of the length of a musket^ and carry leaden balls from the size of thirty to sixty in the pound. Some hunters prefer those of a small bore, because they require biit little ammunition ; others prefer such as have a wude bore, because the wound which they inflict is more certainly attended with death ; the wound, however, made by a ball dk^ 115 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : charged from one of these guns, is always very dangerous. The inside of the barrel is fluted, and the grooves run in a spiral direction from one end of the barrel to the other^ conse- quently when the ball comes out it has a whirling motion round its own axis^ at the same time that it moves forward, and when it enters into the body of an animal, it tears up _ the flesh in a dreadful manner. The best- of powder is chosen for a rifled barrel gun^ and after a proper portion of it is put dow n the barrels the ball is inclosed in a small bit of linen rag, well greased at the outside, and then forced down with a thick ramrod. The grease and the bits of rag, which are called patches, are carried in a little box at the but- endofthegun. The best rifles are furnished with two triggers, one of which being first pulled sets the other, that is, alters the spring so that it wall yield even to the slight touch of a feather. They are also furnished with dou~ ble sights along the barrel, as fine as those of a surveying instrument. An experienced marksman, with one of these guns, will hit an object^not larger than a crown piece, to a certainty, at the distance of one hundred yards. Two men belonging to the Virginia rifle re- giment, a large division of which was quar- tered in this down during the w ar, had such a dependancc on each other's dexterity, that the rifIe guns. 119 one would hold a pierce of board, not more than nine inches square^ between his knees, whilst the other shot at it with a ball at the distance of one hundred paces. This they used to do alternately^ for the amusement of the town's people, as often as they w ere called upon. Numbers of people in Lancaster can vouch for the truth of this fact. Were I, how- ever, to tell you all the stories I have heard of the performances of riflemen, you would think the people were most abominably addicted to lying. A rifle gun will not carry shot, nor will it carry a-^ ball much farther than one hundred yards with certainty. ( 120 ) LETTER IX. Number of Germans in the Neighbourhood of York and Lancaster. — How hrovght over,— White-Slave Trade, — Cruelty frequeiitlTj prac- tised in the carrying it on. — Character of the German Settlers contrasted with that of the Americans. — Passage of the Susquehannah letxveen York and Lancaster. — Great Beauty of the Prospects along the River. — Descrip- tion of York, — Courts of Justice there. — Of the Pennsylvanian System of Judicature. MY DEAR SIR, York, March. I ARRIVED at this place, which is about twenty miles distant from Lancaster, yesterday. The inhabitants of this town, as well as those of Lancaster and of the adjoining country, consist principally of Dutch and German emi- grants, and their descendants. Great num- bers of these people emigrate to America every year, and the importation of them forms a very considerable branch of commerce. They are for the most part brought from the Ilanse Towns and from Rotterdam. The vessels sail thither from America, laden with different kinds of produce, and the masters of them, on arriving there, entice on board as many of these people as they can persuade to leave WHITE-SLAVE TRADE. 121 their native country, without demanding any money for their passage. When the vessel arrives in America^ an advertisement is put into the paper^, mentioning the different kinds of men on boards whether smiths^ tailors, carpenters^ labourers^ or the like^ and the peo- ple that are in want of such men flo^^k down to the vessel ; these poor Germans are then sold to the highest bidder, and the captain of the vessel^ or the ship-holder, puts the money into his pocket.* There have been many very shocking in- stances of cruelty in the carrying on of this tradcj, vulgarly called The white - slave trade.'' I shall tell you but of one. While the yellow fever was raging in Philadelphia in the year 1793, at which time few vessels would venture to approach nearer to the city than Fort Mifflin, four miles below it, a captain in the trade arrived in the river, and hearing that such was the fatal nature of the infection, that a sufficient number of nurses could not be procured to attend the sick for any sum what- ever, he conceived the philanthropic idea of supplying this deficiency from amongst his passengers ; accordingly he boldly sailed up to the city, and advertised his cargo for sale : A few healthy servants, generally between * Thousands of people were brought from the north of Ireland in the same way before the \yar with Frauce* 132 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : *^ seventeen and eighteen years of age, are just arrived in the brig their times will be disposed of by applying on board/' The cargo, as you may suppose, did not remain long unsold. This anecdote vs^as communi- cated to me by a gentleman, who has the ori- ginal advertisement in his possession. When I tell you that people are sold in this manner, it is not to be understood that they are sold for ever, but only for a certain num- ber of years ; for two, three, four, or five years^ according to their respective merits. A good mechanic, that understands a particular kind of tradC;, for whiclf men are much wanted in America, has to serve a shorter time than a mere labourer, as more money will be given for his time, and the ex pence of his passage does not exceed that of any other man. Du- ring their servitude, these people are liable to be resold at the caprice of their masters ; they are as much under dominion as negro slaves, and if they attempt to run aw ay, they may be imprisoned like felons. The laws respecting rederaptioners,'* so are the men called that are brought over in this manner, were ground- ed on those formed for the English convicts before the revolution, and they are very severe. The Germans arc a "quiet, sober, and indus- trious set of people, and are most valuable citizens. Thev generally settle a good many GERMAN SETTLERS. 123 together in one place^, aiid^ as may be sup- posed^ in consequence keep up many of the customs of their native country as well as their own language. In Lancaster and the neigh- bourhood, German is the prevailing language, and numbers of people living there are igno- rant of any other. The Germans are some of the best fiirmers in the United States, and they seldom are to be found but where the land is particularly good ; wherever they settle they build churches, and are w onderfully at- tentive to the duties of religion. In these and many other respects the Germans and their descendants differ widely from the Americans, that is, from the descendants of the English, Scotch, Irish, and other nations, w^ho from having lived in the country for many genera- tions, and from having mingled together, now form one people, whose manners and habits are very much the same. The Germans are a plodding race of men^ wholly intent upon their own business, and indifferent about that of others : a stranger is never molested as he passes through their set- tlements with inquisitive and idle questions* On arriving amongst the Americans,* how- - In speaking of the Americans here, and in the follow- ing lines, it is those of the lower and middling classes of th« people which I allude to, such as are met witli in the couei- try parts qf Fennsyh-ania. I2i TRAVELS THROUGH NOIITH AMERICA: cver^ a stranger must tell where he came from., where he is going, what his name is^ what his business is; and until he gratifies their curiosity on these points, and many others of equal im- portance, he is never suffered to remain quiet for a moment. In a tavern,, he must satisfy every fresh set that comes in, in the same manner, or involve himself in a quarrel, especially if it is found out that he is not a na- tive, which it does not require much sagacity to discover. The Germans give themselves but little trouble about politics ; they elect their repre- sentatives to serve in congress and the state assemblies ; and satisfied that deserving men have been chosen by the people at large, they trust that these men do what is best for the public good, and therefore abide patiently by their decisions : they revere the constitution, conscious that they live happily under it, and express no wishes to have it altered. The Americans, however, are for ever cavilling at some of the public measures ; something or other is always wrong, and they never appear perfectly satisfied. If any great measure is before congress for discussion, seemingly dis- trustful of the abilities or the integrity of the men they have elected, they meet together in their towns or districts, canvass the matter themselves, and then send forward instructions GERMAN SETTI.ER3, 125 to their representatives how to act. Thej never consider that any important question is more likely to meet with a fair discussion in art assembly;, where able men are collected toge- ther from all parts of the states^, than in an obscure corner, where a few individuals are assembled^ who have no opportunity of getting general information on the subject. Party spirit is for ever creating dissensions amongst them, and one man is continually endeavour- ing to obtrude his political creed upon another. If it is found out that a stranger is from Great Britain or Ireland, they immediately begin to boast of their own constitution and freedom, and give him to understand^ that they think every Englishman a slave, because he submits to be called a subject. Their opinions are for the most part crude and dogmatical, and prin- cipally borrowed from newspapers, which are wretchedly compiled from the pamphlets of the day; having read a few of which, they think themselves arrived at the summit of in- tellectual excellence, and qualified for making the deepest political researches. The Germans, as I have said, are fond of settling near each other : when the young men of a family are grown up, they generally en- deavour to get a piece of land in the neigh- bourhood of their relations, and by their in- dustry soon make it valuable ; the American^, 126 TRAVELS THROUGH NjORTH AMERICA: on the contrary^ is of a roYiiig disposition^ and ^vholly regardless of the tics of consanguinity ; he takes his wife with him, goes to a distant part of the country, and buries himself in the woods, hundreds of miles distant from the rest of his family, never perhaps to see them again. In the back parts of the country, you alw ays meet numbers of men prowling about to try and buy cheap land ; having found what they like, they immediately remove : nor having once removed, are these people satisfied ; rest- less and discontented with vy^hat they possess^ they are for ever changing. It is scarcely pos- sible in any part of the continent to find a man, amongst the middling and lower classes of Americans, who has not changed his farm and his residence many diflerent times. Thus it is, that though there are not more than four millions of people in the United States^ yet they are scattered from the confines of Canada to the farthest extremity of Georgia, and from the Atlantic to the banks of the Mississippi. Thousands of acres of waste land, are annually taken up in unhealthy and un- fruitful parts of the country, notw ithstanding that the best settled and healthy parts of the middle states would maintain five times the number of inhabitants that they do at present. The American, however, does not change about from place to place in this manner merely THE SUSQUEHANNIH. 127 to gratify a wandering disposition ; in every change he hopes to make money. By the desire of making money, both the Germans and Americans of every class and description, are actuated in all their movements ; self-in- terest is always uppermost in their thoughts ; it is the idol which they worship^ and at its shrine thousands and thousands would be found, in all parts of the country^ ready to make a sa- crifice of every noble and generous sentiment that can adorn the human inind. In coming to this place from Lancaster^ I crossed the Susquehannah River^, which rung nearly midway between the two towns^ at the small village of Columbia^ as better boats are kept there than at either of the ferries higher up or lower down the river. The Susque- hannah is here somewhat more than a quarter of a mile w ide : and for a considerable distance, both above aiid below the ferry, it abounds with islands and large rocks^ over which last the w^ater runs with prodigious velocity : the roaring noise that it makes is heard a great way off. The banks rise very boldly on each side^ and are thickly wooded ; the islands also are covered with small trees^ which, inter- spersed with the rocks, produce a very fine effect. The scenery in every point of view is wild and romantic. In crossing the river it n necessary to row up against the stream iSS TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : under the shore^ and then to strike over to the opposite side^ under the shelter of some of tlie largest islands. As these rapids con- tinue for many mileS;, thej totally impede the navigation^ excepting when there are floods in the river^ at which time large rafts may be conducted down the stream, carrying seve- ral hundred barrels of flour. It is said that the river could be rendered navigable in thi^ jieighbourliood, but the expence of such an undertaking would be enormous, and there is little likelihood indeed that it will ever be attempted, as the Pennsylvanians are already engaged in cutting a canal below Harrisburgh^ which will connect the navigable part of the river with the Schuylkill, and also another canal from the Schuylkill to the Delaware^ by means of which a vent will be opened for the produce of the country bordering upon the Susquehannah at Philadelphia. These canals would have been finished by this time, if the subscribers had all paid their respective shares^ but at present they are almost at a stand for want of money. The quantity of wdld fowl that is seen on every part of the Susquehannah is immense. Throughout America the wild fowl is excel- lent and plentiful ; but there is one duck in particular found on this river, and also on Pa- towmac and James rivers, which surpasses all LAWYERS. 129 ethers : it is called the white or canvas-back duck^ from the feathers between tlie wings being' somewhat of the colour of canvas. This duck is held in such estimation in America^, that it is sent frequently as a present for hundreds of miles — indeed it would be a dainty morsel for the greatest epicure in any country. York contains about five hundred houses and six churches, and is much such another town as Lancaster. It is inhabited by Ger- manSj by whom the same manufactures are car- ried on as at Lancaster. The courts of common pleas, and those of general quarter sessions, w ere holding when I reached this place ; I found it difficult, there- fore, at first, to procure accommodation, but at last i got admission in a house principally taken up by lawyers. To behold the strange ssseoiblage of persons that was brought toge- ther this morning io the one poor apartmeat which was allotted to all the lodgers, was really a subject of diversion. Here one lawyer had his clients in a corner of the room ; there another had his ; a third was shaving ; a fourth pov> der- ing his ov/n hair ; a fifth noting his brief; and the table standing in the middle of the room, be- tween a clamorous set of old men on one side, and three or four women in tears on the other ; I and the rest of the company who were not lawyers, were left to eat our breakfast. VOL. I. K ]50 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA*. On etitering into the courts, a stranger is apt to saiile at the grotesque appearance of the jurlges who preside in them^ and at their man- ners on the bench , but this smile must be sup- pressed when it is recollected, that there is no country^ perhaps^ in the worlds where justice is more impartially administered^ or more easily obtained by those who have been injured. The judges in the country parts of Pennsylvania are no more than plain farmers^ who from their iriLacy ha^ve been accustomed to little else than following the plough. The laws ex- pressly declare that there must be, at least, three judges resident in every county; now as the salary allowed is but a mere trifle, no law- yer w ould accept of the office, w hich of course must be filled from amongst the inhabitants,* who are all in a happy state of mediocrity, anri on a perfect equality w ith each other. The district judge, however, who presides in the disl'ict or circuit, has a larger salary, and is a man of a different cast. The district or cir* cuit consisis of at least three, but Lot more than six counties. The county judges, which I have mentioned, are '^judges of the court of common pleas, and by virtue of their offices also justices of oyer and terminer, and ge- * This is also the case in Philadelphia, where we find pracii.-,ii)g physicians and surgeons sitting on the bejich 4s judges in a court of justicet PENNSYLVANIA COUilTS. 131 neral gaol delivery, for the trial of capital and other offenders therein/' Any two judg'es compose the court of quarter sessions. Under certain regulations^ established by law^ the accused party has the power of removing the proceedings into the supreme court, which has jurisdiction over every part of the state. This short account of the courts relates only to Pennsylvania : every state in the union has a separate code of laws for itself, and a distinct judicature. LETTER X. OfiJie Country near York. Of the Soil of the Countrij on each Side of the Blue Mountains. — Frecleric-to'uon. — Change in the Inhabitants jand in the Country as you proceed towards the Sea. — JS umber of Slaves. — Tobacco ehiefly eultivaled. — Inqiiisitiveness of the People at the Taverns. — Observations thereon. - — Description of the Great Falls of the Pa- towmac River. — George Town. — Of the Country between that Place and Hoe's Ferry. — Poisonous Vines. — Port Tobacco. ' Wretched Appearance of the Country border- ing upon the Ferry. — Slaves neglected.--^ k2 133 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA! Passage 6f the Patowmac very dangerous. — ■. Fresh Water Oijslers.'— Landed on a deserted Pari of til e Virgirdan Shore. ---^Great Hospi- ialitt) of ike VtrginiaMi Stratford, March. IN the ncighboiirbood of York and La.n-^ c^er, the soil consists of a vhh, brown, loamy ^artk ; and if } oil proceed in a south-- westerly coiiise^ parallel to tbe Bine Mouiitainsj, you meet with the same kind of soil as far as Fre- deric in Maryland. Here it changes gradiiailj to a deep reddish coloiu% and continues much the same aloug the eastern side of the moim- tains, all tlie way down to North Carolina. On crossing over ihc oiountains, however, di- rectly from Frederic, the same fertile brown soil, which is common in the neighbourhood of York and Lancaster, is. again met with, and it is found throughout the Shenandoah Valiej^, and as for down as the Caroiinas, on the west side of the mountains. Between York and Frederic in Maryland there are two or three small towns ; viz. Han- over, Petersburgh^ and Woodsburgh,^ but there is nothing worthy of mention in any of them, Frederic contains about seven hundred houses and five churches, two of which are for G^r- maii Lutherans, one for Presbyterians, one for Cahinists^ and one for Baptists. It is a flourish- FACE OF THE COUNTRY. 153 ing town^ and carries on a brisk inland trade. The arsenal of the state of Pvlarylaud is placed here, the situation being secure and central. From Frederic I proceeded in a soulherlv course through Montgomery county in Mary-^ land. In this direction the soil changes to a ^ yellowish sort of clay mixed with gravel, ai^d continues raucli the same until you come to the federal city, beyond which, as I have before mentioned, it becomes more and more sandy as yon approach the sea coast. The change in the face of the country after leaving Fre- deric is gradual, but at the end of a day's jour- ney a striking dilTerence is perceptible. Instead of well cultivated fields, green with wheat, such as are met with along that rich track which runs contiguous to the mountains, large pieces of land, which have been worn out with the culture of tobacco, are here seen lyii g waste, with scarcely an herb to cover them. Instead of the furrows of the plough, the marks of the hoe appear on the ground ; the fields are overspread with little hillocks for the reception of tobacco plants, and the eye is assailed in every direction with the unpleasant sight of gangs of male and female slaves toil- ing under the harsh commands of the overseer. The difference in the manners of the iaba- bitants is also great. Instead of being amongst the phlegmatic Germans, a traveller uiids hiai- 134: TRATELS THRdUGH NORtH AMERICA! self again in the midst of an inquisitive and prying set of Americans^, to gratify whose cu- riosity it is always necessary to devote a certain portion of time after alighting at a tavern. A traveller on arriving in America maj possibly imagine^ that it is the desire of obtain- ing useful information which leads the peo- ple^ wherever he stops^ to accost him ; and that the particular enquiries respecting tJ e ob- ject of his pursuits^ the place of his abode, and that of his destination^ &c. are made to pre- pare the Vt^ay for questions of a moic general nature^ and for conversation that may be at- tended with some amusement to him ; he^ therefore readily answers tl^em, hoping in re- turn to gain information about the country through which he passes ; but when it u found that these questions are asked merely through an idle and impertinent curiosity and that hs far the greater part of the people vvho ask them are ignorant, boorish fellows ; when it is found that those who can keep up some little conversation immediately begin to talk upon politics, and to abuse every country ex- cepting their own ; when, lastly, it h found that the people scarcely ever give satisfactory an- swers at first to the enquiiies which are made by a stianger respectiiig their country, but always hesitate, as if suspicious that he was asking these questions to procure seme local FALLS or THE PATOWMAC. 135 information^ iu order to enable him to over- reach them in a barga'lish gentlemen, who migrated when Vir- ginia was a young colony, fixed their residence; and several of the houses which they built, ex- actly similar to the old manor houses in Eng- land, are still remaining, particularly in the counties of Richmond and Westmoreland. Some of these, like the houses in Maryland, are quite in ruins ; others are kept in good re- pair by the present occupiers, who live in a style which approaches nearer to that of English country gentlemen, than what is to be met w ith any where else on the continent, some other parts of Virginia alone excepted. Amongst the inhabitants here, and in the lower parts of Virginia, there is a disparity iin- known elsewhere in America, excepting in the large towns. Instead of the lands being equally divided, immense estates are held by a few iadividuals, w ho derive large incomes from them, whilst the generality of the people are but in a state of mediocrity. Most of the men also, who possess these large estateS;, having re- ceived liberal educations, which the others have not, the distinction between them is still more observable. I met with several in this neigh- l)ourhood, who had been brought up at the public schools and universities in England, where, until the unfortunate w ar which sepa- rated the colonies from her, the young men MANUFACTURES. 147 were very generally educated ; and even still a few are sent there, as the veneration for that country from whence their ancestors came, and with which they were themselves for a long time afterwards connected^ is by no means yet extinguished. There is by no means so great a disparity now, however, amongst the inhabitants of the Northern Neck, as was formerly, and it is be- coming less and less perceptible every year, many of the large estates having been divided in consequence of the removal of the proprie- tors to other parts of the country that were more healthy, and many more on account of the present laws of Virginia, which do not permit any one son to inherit the landed estates of the father to the exchision of his bfotliers. The principal planters in Virginia have nearly every thing they can want on their own estates. Amons-st their slaves are found tav- lors^ slioemakers^ carpenters, smiths, turners, wheelwrights, weavers, * tanners, &c. I have seen patterns of excellent coarse m oollen cloth, made in the country by slaves, and a variety of cotton manufactures, amongst the rest good nankeen. Cotton grows here extremely well; the plants are often killed by frost in Vt inter, but they always produce abundantly the first year in w hich they are sown. The cotton from H8 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : which nankeen is made is of a particular kind,, naturally of a yellowish colour. The large estates arc managed hy stewards and overseers, the proprietors just amusing themselves with seeing what is going forward. The work is done wholly by slaves, whose num- bers are in this part of the country more than double that of white persons. The slaves on the large plantations are in general very well provided for^ and treated with mildness. During three months^ nearly, that I was in Virginia, but two or three instances of ill treatment to- wards them came under my observation. Their quarters, the name whereby their habitations are called, are usually situated one or two hundred yards from the dwelling house^ which gives the appearance of a village to the residence of every planter in Virginia; when the estate, however, is so large as to be divided into several farms, then separate quarters are attached to the house of the overseer on each farm. Adjoining their little habitations, the slaves commonly have small gardens and yards for poultry, which are all their ov/n property ; they have ample time to attend to their own concerns, and their gardens are generally found well stocked, and their flocks of poultry numerous. Besides the food they raise for themselves, they are allowed liberal cations of salted pork and Indian corn. Many SLAVES. 149 of their little huts are comfortably furnished, and they are themselves, in general, extremely well clothed. In shorty their condition is by no means so wretched as might be imagined. They are forced to work certain hours in the day ; but in return they are clothed, dieted, and lodged comfortably, and saved all anxiety about provision for their offspring. Still, however, let the condition of a slave be made ever so comfortable, as long as he is conscious of being the property of another man, who has it in his power to dispose of him according to the dictates of caprice ; as long as he hears people around him talking of the blessings of liberty^ and considers that he is in a staie of bondage, it is not to be supposed that he can feel equally happy with the freeman. It is immaterial under what form slavery presents itself : w hen- ever it appears, there is ample cause for hu- manity to w eep at the sight, and to lament that men can be found so forgetful of their own situations, as to live regardless of the feelings of their fellow creatures. With respect to the policy of holding slaves in any country, on account of the depravity of morals which it hecessarily occasions, besides the many other' evd consequences attendant upon it, so much has been already said bj others, that it is needless here to make any comments on the subject. 150 TKAVELS THROUGH NOKTII AMERICA * The niimber of the slaves increases most ra- pidly^ so that there is scarcely any estate but what is overstocked. This is a circumstance complained of by every planter, as the main- tenance of more than are requisite for the cul- ture of the estaie is attended with great ex- pence. Motives of humanity deter them from selling the poor creatures, or turning them adrift from the spot where they have been born and brought up, in the midbt of friends and re- lations. What I have here said respecting the condi- tion and treatment of slaves, appertains, it must be remembered, to tliose only who are upoii the large plantations in Virginia; the lot of such as are unfortunate enough to fall into the hands of the lower class of white people^ and of hard ta^.k-masters in the towns, is very different. In the CaroHiuis and Georgia again, slavery presents itself in very different colours, lixHii what it does even in its worst form in Virginia. I am told^, that it is no uncoounon thing there, to see gangs of ne- groes staked at a horse race, and to see these unfortunate beings bandied about from one set of drunken gamblers to another, for days to- gether. How much to be deprecated are the la\^s which sufi'er such abuses to exist ! yet these are thte laws enacted by people, who boast of their love of liberty and indepen- CULTIVATION. 151 dcnce, and wlio presume to sa}\, tluit it is iii the breasts of Aroericans alone that the blessinsfs o of freedom are held in just estimation ! The Northern Neck, with the exception of some few spots only, is flat and sandy, and abounds with pijne and cedar trees. Some parts of it are well cnltivated, and afford good crops; but these are so intermixed with ex- tensive tracts of waste land, worn out by the culture of tobacco, and which are almost desti- tute of verdure, that on the whole the country lias the appearance of barrcAuess. This is the case wlierever tobacco has been made the principal object of cultivation. It is not, however, so much owing to the great share of nutriment which the tobacco plant requires, that the land is impoverished, as to the particular mode of cultivating it, which renders it necessary for people to be continually wal^king between the plants, from the moment they are set out^ so that the ground about each plant is left exposed to the burning rays of tlie &un ail the ^ujnmer, and becomes at tlie end of the season a haxd beaten pathway, A ruin- ous system has prevailed aho of working the same piece of land year after year, till it w as totally exhausted ; after this it was left nea- iected, and a fresh piece of land was cleared, that always produced good ci^ops for one or two reasons; but this in its turn ^as worn out, and 152 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA ! afterwards left waste. Many of tlie planters are at length beginning to see the absurdity of wearing out their lands in this manner^ and now raise only one crop of tobacco upon a piece of new land^ then they sow wheat for two years, and afterwards clover. They put on from twelve to fifteen hundred bushels of manure per acre at first, Vv iiicii is foiuid to be sufficient both for the tobacco aud w heat ; the latter is produced at the rate of about twenty bushels per acre. In some parts of Virginia^ the lands left waste in this manner throw up, in a very short time, a spontaneous growth of pines and cedars ; in which case, being shaded from the powerful influence of the sun, they re- cover their former fertility at the end of fif- teen or twenty vears ; but in other parts many years elapse before ao) verdure appears upon them. The trees springing up in this spontaneous manner, usually grow very close to each other ; they attain the height of fif- teen or twenty feet, perhaps, in the same number of years ; there is, however, but very little sap in them, and in a short time after they are cut down they decay. Tobacco is raised and manufactured in the following manner: When the spring is so far advanced that every apprehension of the re- turn of frost is banished, a convenient spot of TOBACCO PLANTATIONS. 153 ground is chosen, from twenty to one hundred feet square, whereon they burn prodigious piles of wood, in order to destroy the weeds and insects. The warm ashes are then dug in with the earth, and the seed, which is black, and remarkably small, sown. The whole is next covered over with bushes, to prevent birds and flies, if possible, from get- ting to it; but this, in general, proves very ineffectual ; for the plant scarcely appears above ground, when it is attacked by a large black fly of the beetle kind, which destroys the leaves. Persons are repeatedly sent to pick off these flies; but sometimes, notwith- standing all their attention, so much mischief ii done, that very few plants are left alive. As I passed through Virginia, I heard uni- versal complaints of the depredations they had committed; the beds were almost wholly de- stroyed. As soon as the 3'ouiig plants are sufficiently grown, which is generaiiy in the beginning of May, they are transpiaated into fields, and set out in hillocks, at the distance of three or four feet fiom each other. Here again they have other enemies to contend with ; the roots are attacked by worms, and between the. leaves and stem diilerent flies deposit their eggs, to the infallible ruin of the plant, if not quickly removed ; it is absolutely necessary^ 154 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: therefore;, as I have said, for persons to be continually walking betw een the plants, in or- der to watch, and also to trim them at the proper periods. The tops are broken off at a certain height; and the suckers, which spring out between the leaves, are removed as soon as discovered. According also to the parti- cular kind of tobacco which the planter wishes to have, the lower, the middle, or the upper leaves are suffered to remain. The lower leaves grow the largest ; they arc also milder, and more inclined to a yellow colour than those growing towards the top of the plant. When arrived at maturity, which is ge- nerally about the month of August, the plants are cut down, pegs are driven into the stems, and they are hung up in large houses, built for the purpose, to dry. If the w eatlier is not favourable for drying the leaves, fires are then lighted, and the smoke is suffered to circulate between the plants ; this is also sometimes done^ to give the leaves a browner colour than what they have naturally. After this they are tied up in bundles of six or seven leaves each, and thrown in heaps to s\a eat ; then they are again dried. When sufficiently cured, the bandies are packed, by means of presses, in hogsheads capable of containing eight hun- dred or one thousand pounds weight. The planters send the tobacco thus packed to TOBACCO WAREHOUSE?. |55 the nearest ghipping town^ where, before ex- portation, it is examined by an inspector ap- jxointed for the purpose, who gives a certi- ficate to warrant the shipping of it, if it is sotind and merchantable, if not, he sends it back to the owner. Some of the warehouses to which the tobacco is sent for inspection are very extensive ; and skilful merchants can accurately tell the quality of the tobacco from knowing the warehouse at which it has been inspected.* Wliere the roads are good and dry, tobacco is sent to the w arehouscs in a singular manner : Two large pins of \vood are driven into either end of the hogshead, by way of axles ; a pair of shafts, made for the purpose, are attached to these, and tbe hogshead is thus drawn along by one or two horses ; w hen this is done, great care is taken to have the hoops very strong. Tobacco is not near so much cultivated now as it was formerly, the great demand for wheat having induced most of the planters to raise * By the laws of America, no produce which has under- gone any sort of manufacture, as fiovu', potash, tobacco, rice, &c. can be exported without inspecdon, nor even jput into a boat to be conveyed down a river to a sea port. The inspectors are ail sworn, are paid by the states, and not suf- fered to take fees from any individual, This is a most po- litic measure 3 for as none but the best of each article can be sent out of the country, it enhances the price of Ameri- can produce in foreign markets, and increases the demand. 155 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : that grain in^ preference. Those who raise to- bacco and Indian corn are called i lanters, and those who cultivate small grain., farmers. Though man J of the houses in the Northern Neck are built^ as I have said^ of brick and stone, in the style of the old English manor houses, yet th^ greater number thefe^ and throughout Virginia, are of wood ; amongst which are all those that have been built of late jeafs. This is chiefly owing to a prevailing, though absurd opinion, that wooden houses are the heaiihiest, because the inside walls never appear damp, like those of brick and stone, in rainy weather, in ixont of every house is a porch or pent-hous^, commonly extending^ the whole length of the. building ; very often there is ooQ giso in the r,ea*i\ and sometimes all round. Tbese4:Q?ches afiord an agreeable shade from the san during suiomer. The hall, or saloon as it is "^cailed, is always a favourite apartment, during the hot weatlier, in a Vuginian house, on account of the diap.ght of air through it, and it is usually furnished similar to a parlour, with sofas, &c. The common people in the lower parts of Virginia have very sallow complexions^ owing to the bisrning rays of the sun in summer, and the bilious complaints to which they are subject in the fail of the year. The women are far from being comely, aiid the dresses^ VIRGINIAN WOMEN. 157 which they wear out of doors to guard them from the sun^ make them appear still more ugly than nature has formed them. There is a kind of bonnet very commonly worn, which, in particular, disfigures them amazingly ; it is made with a caul^ fitting close on the back part of the head, and a front stiffened with small pieces of cane, which projects nearly two feet from the head in a horizontal direction. To look at a person at one side, it is necessary for a woman, wearing a bonnet of this kind, to turn her whole body round. In the upper parts of the country, towards the mountains, the women are totally different, having a healthy comely appearance. 15S TRAV]£LS THROUGH N^ORTH AMERICA : LETTER XII. Town of TappaJiannock, — Rappahannock Ri- ver. — Sharks found in itr — Country border- ing upon Urhanna. — Fires common in the Woods, — Manner of stopping their dreadful Pivgress. — Mode of getting Turpentine from Trees, — Gloucester, — Yoj^k Town, — Remains of the Forlifications erected here during the American war. — Houses shattered hy Balls still remaining,— *Cave in the Bank of the Ri- ver. — Williamshurgh, — State House in Ruins, — Statue of Lord Bhtietourt, — College of Wil- liam and Alary. — Condition of the Students. Williamsburgh^ April. SINCE I last wrote^ the greater part of my time has been spent at the houses of dif- ferent gentlemen in the Northern Neck. Four days ago I crossed the Rappahannock River^, which bounds the Northern Neck on one side^ to a small town called Tappa- hannock^ or Hobb's Hole, containing about one hundred houses. Before the war, this town was in a much more flourishing state than at present ; that unfortunate contest ruin- ed the trade of this little place, as it did that of most of the sea-port towns in Virginia. The Rappahannock is about three quarters of SNIPES. 139 a mile wide opposite the town^ which is se- venty miles above its mouth. Sharks are very often seen in this river. What is very remark- able, the fish are all found on the side of the river next to the town. From Tappahannock to Urbanna, another small town on the Rappahannock River^ si- tuated about twenty-five miles lower down^ the country wears but a poor aspect. The road, which is level and very sandy, runs through woods for miles together. The habitations that are seen from it are but few, and they are of the poorest description. The woods chiefly consist of black oak, pine, and cedar trees, which grow on land of the worst quality only. On this road there are many creeks to be crossed, which empty themselves into the Rap- pahannock River ; in the neighbourhood of which there are extensive marshes, that rea- der the adjacent country, as may be supposed, very unhealthy. Such a quantity of snipes are seen in these marshes continually, that it would be hardly possible to fire a gun, in a ho- rizontal direction, and not kill many at one shot. As I passed through this part of the country, I observed many traces of fires in the woods, which are frequent, it seems, in the spring of the year. They usually proceed from the 160 TRAYELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: r%ligence of people who are burning brush- \Toodto clear the lands; and considering how often they happen^ it is wonderful that they are not attended with more serious conse- quences than commonly follow. I was a wit- ness myself to one of these fires^ that hap- pened in the Northern Neck. The day had been remarkably serene^ and appearing fa- vourable for the purpose^ large quantities of brushwood had been fired at difierent places ; in the afternoon, however, it became sultry, and streams of hot- air were perceptible, now and then, the usual tokens of a gust. About five o'clock, the horizon towards the north became dark, and a terrible v/hirlwind arose. I was standing with some gentlemen on an eminence at the time, and perceived it gra- dually advancing. It carried with it a cloud of dust, dried leaves^ and pieces of rotten wood, and in many places, as it came along, it levelled the fence rails, and unroofed the sheds for the cattle. We made every endeavour^, but in vain, to get to a place of shelter ; in the course of two minutes the whirlwind overtook us ; the shock was violent ; it was liardly possible to stand, and difficult to breathe ; the whirlwind passed over in about three minutes, but a storm, accompanied by heavy thunder and lightning, succeeded, which Jastcd for more than half an hour, On look- 11 FIRES. 161 ing round immediately after the whirlwind had passed^ a prodigious column of tire now ap- peared in a part of the wood where some brushwood had been burning; in many places the flames rose considerably above the summit of the trees^ which were of a large growth. It was a tremendous^ and at the same time sublime sight. The negroes on the surrounding plantationi were all assembled with their hoes^ and watches were stationed at every corner to give the alarm if the fire appeared elsewhere^ lest the conflagration should become general. To one plantation a spark was carried by the wind more than half a mile ; happily^ how- ever^ a torrent of rain in a short time afterwards came pouring down^ and enabled the people to extinguish the flames in everj^ quarter. When these fires do not receive a timelv check;, they sometimes increase to a most alarming height ; and if the grass and dead leaves happen to be very dry^ and the wind brisk, proceed with so great velecity that the swiftest runners are often overtaken in endea- vouring to escape from the flames. Indeed I have met with people, on whose veracity the greatest dependence might be placed, that have assured me they have found it a diffictiit task^ at times, to get out of the reach of them, though mounted on good horses. There is but one mode of stopping ?l fir€ TOL. I. M 162 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA ! of this kind^ which makes such a rapid pro- gress along the ground. A number of other fires are kindled at some distance a-head of that which they wish to extinguish, so as to form a line across the course, which, from the direction of the wind, it is likelj to take. These are carefully watched by a sufficient number of men furnished with hoes and rakes, and they are prevented from spreading, except on that side which is towards the large fire, a matter easily accomplished when attended to in the beginning. Thus the fires in a few minutes meet, and of consequence they must cease, as there is nothing left to feed them, the grass and leaves being burnt on all sides. In general there is but very little brushw ood in the woods of America, so that these fires chiefly run along the ground ; the trees, how- ever, are often scorched, but it is very rare for any of them to be entirely consumed. The country between Urbanna and Glou- cester, a town situated upon York River, is neither so sandy nor so flat as that bordering; upon the Rappahannock. The trees, chiefly pines, are of a very large size, and aflbrd abundance of turpentine, which is extracted from them in great quantities by the inha- bitants, principally, however, for home con- sumption. The turpentine is got by cut- ting a large gash in the ti'ce^ and setting a GLOUCESTER AT*D YORK. 163 trough underneath to receive the resinous matter distilled from the wound. The trees thus drained last but a short time after they are cut down. In this neighbourhood there are numbers of ponds or small lakes, sur- rounded bj woods, along some of which the views are v^ery pleasing. From most of them are falls of water into some creek or river, which afford excellent seats for miles. Gloucester contains only ten or twelve houses ; it is situated on a neck of land nearly opposite to the town of York, which is at the other side of the river. There are remains here of one or two redoubts thrown up during the war. The river between the two places is about one mile and a half wide, and affufds four fathom and a half of water. The town of York consists of about seventy houses, an episcopalian church, and a gaoL It is not now more than one third of the size it was before the war, and it dees not appear likely soon to recover its former flourishing state. Great quantities of tobacco were for- merly inspected here ; very little, hovv^ever, is now raised in the neighbourhood, the people having got into a habit of cultivating wheat in preference* The little that is seat for inspec- tion, is reckoned to be of the very best quality, and is all engaged for the London market. York Is remarkable for having been the 164 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: place where Lord Cornwallis surrendered his army to the combined forces of the Ameri- cans and French. A few of the redoubts^ which were erected by each army^ are still re- maining, but the principal fortifications are almost quite obliterated ; the plough has passed over some of them, and groves of pine trees sprung up about others, though, during the siege, every tree near the town was destroyed. The first and second parallels can just be traced, when pointed out by a person ac- quainted with them in a more perfect state. In the town the houses bear evident markjr of the siege ; and the inhabitants will not, oft any account, suffer the holes perforated by the cannon balls to be repaired on the outside* There is one house in particular, which stands in the skirt of the town, that is in a most shattered condition. It was the habitation of a Mr. Neilson, a secretary under the regal government, and was made the head quarters of Lord Cornwallis when he first came to. the town ; but it stood so much exposed, and aflforded so good a mark to the enemy, that he was soon forced to quit it. Neilson, how- ever, it seems, was determined to stay there till the last, and absolutely remained till hh negro servant, the only person that would live Vith him in such a house, had his brains dashed flit by a cannon shot while he stood by his YORK TOWN- 165 Aide ; be then thought it time to retire^ but the house was still continually fired at^ as if it had been head quarters. The walls and roof are pierced in innumerable places^ and at one corner a large piece of the wall is torn away; in this state^ however^ it is still in- habited in one room by some person or other equally fanciful as the old secretary. There are trenches thrown up round it, and on every side are deep hollows made by the bombs that fell near it. Till within a year or two the broken shells themselves remained ; but the New England men that traded to York finding they would sell well as old iron^ dug them up^ and carried them away in their ships. The banks of the river, where the town i5tands„ are high and inaccessible;, excepting in a few places; the principal part of the town is built on the top of them ; a few fishing huts and storehouses merely stand at the bot- tom. A cave is shewn here in the banks, described by the people as having been the place of head-quarters during the siege, after the cannonade of the enemy became warm ; but in reality it was formed and hung with green baize for a lady, either the wife or ac- quaintance of an officer, who was terrified with the idea of remaining in the town, and died of fright after her removal down to the cave. Twelve miles from York^ to the westward;, 166 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : stands Wiliiamsburgli, formerly the seat of go- vernment in Virginia. Richmond was fixed upon during the vy^ar as a more secure place^ being farther removed from the sea coasts and not so much exposed to depredations if an ene- my were to land unexpectedly. Richmond also had the advantage of being situated at the head of a navigable river, and was therefore likely to increase to a size whieh the other never could attain. It is wonderful, indeed, what could have induced people to fix upon the spot where Williamsburgh stands for a town; in the middle of a plain, and one mile a.nd a half removed from any navigable stream, when there were so many noble rivers in the neigh- bourhood. The town consists of one principal street, and Ivy 0 others which run parallel to it. At die end of the main street stands the college, and at the other end the old capitol or state* Louse, a capacious building of brick, now crb/mbling to pieces from negligence. The houses around it are mostly uninhabited, and present a melancholy picture. In the hall of the rapitol stands a maimed statue of Lord Botietourt, one of the regal governors of Vir- ginia, erected at the public expence, in me- mory of his lordship's equitable and popular aemuiistration. During the war, when party rage as at its highest pitchy and every thing WILLAMSBUROH COLLEGE. 167 pertaining to royalty obnoxious, the head and one arm of the statue were knocked oiF; it now remains quite exposed, and is more and more defaced every day. Whether the motto, Besurgo rege favente/' inscribed under the coat of arms, did or did not help to bring upon it its present fate, I cannot pretend to say ; as it is, it certainly remains a monument of the extinction of monarchial power in America, The college of William and Mary, as it is still called, stands at the opposite end of the main street; it is a heavy pile, which bears^ as Mr. Jefferson, I think, says, a very close resemblance to a large brick kiln, excepting that it has a roof The students were about thirty in number when I was tliere; from their appearaiKe one would imagine that the seminary ought rather to be termed a gram- mar school than a college; yet I understand the visitors, since the present revolution, find- ing it full of young boys just learning the ru- diments of Greek and Latin, a circumstance which consequently deterred others more ad- vanced from going there, dropped the pro- fessorships for these two languages, and esta- blished others in their place. The profes- sorships, as they now stand, are for law, me- decine, natural and moral philsopliy, mathe- matics, and modern languages. The bishop 168 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA,^ of Virginia is president of the college, and has apartments in the buildings. Half a do- zen or more of the students, the eldest about twelve years old, dined at his table one day that I was there ; some were without shoes or stockings, others without coats. During dinner they constantly rose to help themselves at the sideboard, A couple of dishes of salted meat, and some oyster soup, formed the whole of the dinner. I only mention this, as it may convey some little idea of American colleges and American dignitaries. The episcopalian church, the only one in the place, stands in the middle of the main street ; it is much out of repair. On either side of it, is an extensive green, surrounded with neat looking houses, which bring to mind an English village. The town contains about twelve hundred inhabitants, and the society in it is thought to be more extensive and more genteel at the same time than what is to be met with ii^ any other place of its size in America No manufactures are carried on here, and scarcely any trade. There is an hos[ ital here for lunatics, but it does not appear to be well regulated^ ( 169 ) LETTER XIII. Hampton. — Ferrt/ to Norfolk. — Danger in crossing the numerous Ferries in Virginia, — Norfolk. — Latvs of Virginia injurious to the Trading interest. — Streets narrow and dirttf in Norfolk, — Yellow Fever there, — Observa-- Hons on this disorder, — Violent Party Spirit amongst the Inhabitants, — Few Churches in Virginia. — Several in Ruins. — Private Grave Yards. Norfblk, ApriL FROM Williamsburgh to Hampton the country is flat and uninteresting. Hamp- ton is a small town situated at the head of a bay^ near the mouth of James River, which contains about thirty houses and an episcopa- lian church. A few sea boats are annually built here ; and corn and lumber are exported annually to the value of about forty-two thou- sand dollars. It is a dirty disagreeable place, always infested by a shocking stench from a muddy shore when the tide is out. From this town there is a regular ferry to Norfolk^ across Hampton roads, eighteen miles over, I was forced to leave my horses here 170 TRAVELS TmiOUGH NORTH AMERICA : behind me for several days, as all the flats belonging to the place had been sent up a creek some miles for staves, &c. and they had no other method of getting horses into the ferry boats, which were too large to come close into i&horc, excepting by carrying them out in these #ats, and then making them leap on board. It is; a most irksome piece of business to cross the ferries in Virginia; there is not one in six ^vlicre the boats are good and well manned, and it is necessary to employ great circum- specfion in order to guard against accidents, which are but too common. As I passed along I heard of numberless recent instances of horses being drowned, killed^ and having their legs broken, by getting in and out of the boats J Norfolk stands nearly at the mouth of the eastern branch of Elizabeth River, the most sDuthern of Ihose which empty themselves into ibe Chesapeak Bay, It is the largest commer* eial town in Virginia, and carries on a flou- rishing trade to the West Indies. The exports consist principally of tobacco, flour, and corn, 2tnd various kinds of lumber ; of the latter it derives an inexhaustible supply from the Dis- mal Swamp, immediately in the neighbour- hood. Norfolk would be a place of much greater trade than it is at present, were it not for the impaliey of some laws which haVe existed ia NORFOLK- 17i the state of Virginia. One of these laws, so injurious to commerce, was passed during the war. By this law it was enacted, that all mer- chants and planters in Virginia, who owed mo- ney to British merchants, should be e:^onerated from their debts, if they paid the money due into the public treasury instead of sending it to Great Britain ; and all such as stood indebted were invited to come forward, and give their money in this manner towards the support of the contest in which America was then en- gaged. The treasury at first did not become much richer in consequence of this law ; for the Vir- ginian debtor, individually, could gain nothing, by paying the money that he owed into the treasury, as he had to pay the full sum v/hich w^as due to the British merchant : on the con- trary, he might lose considerably ; his credit would be ruined in the eyes of the British merchant by such a measure, and it would be a great impediment to the renewal of a com- mercial intercourse between them after the conclusion of the war. However, when the continental paper mo- ney became so much depreciated, that one hundred paper dollars were not worth one in silver, many of the people, who stood deeply indebted to the merchants in Great Britain, began to look upon the measure in a different 173 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : point of view ; they now saw a positive ad* vantage in paying their debts into the treasury in these paper dollars, which were a legal ten- der; accordingly they did so^ and in conse- quence were exonerated of their debts by the laws of their country^ though in reality they had not paid more than one hundreth part of them. In vain did the British merchant sue for his money when hostilities were terminate ed ; he could obtain no redress in any court of justice in Virginia. Thus juggled out of his property^ he naturally became distrustful of the Virginians ; he refused to trade with them on the same terms as with the people of the othef states^ and the Virginians have consequently reaped the fruits of their very dishonourable conduct^. Another law, baneful in the highest degree to the trading interest, is one which renders all landed property inviolable. This law has induced numbers to run into debt ; and as long as it exists, foreigners will be cautious of giving credit to a large amount to men who^ if they chase to purchase a tract of land with the goods or money entrusted to their care^ may sit down * In Febmsry I790y this nefarious business was at last brought before the supreme court of the United States in Philadelphia, by the agents of the British merchants > and the decisions of the judges were such as redounded to their honour 5 for they declared that these debts should all h& paid over a^aia^ bona fide^, io the British merchant. IMPOLITIC LAWS. 173 Upon it securely, out of the reach of all their creditors, under protection of the laws of the country. Owing to this law they have not yet been enabled to get a bank established in Nor- folk, though it would be of the utmost im- portance to the traders. The directors of thoj bank of the United States have always per- emptorily refused to let a branch of it be fixed in any part of Virginia whilst this law remains. In Boston, New York, Baltimore, Charleston, &c. there are branches of the bank of the United States, besides other banks, established under the sanction of the state legislature. Repeated attempts have been made in the states assembly to get this last mentioned law repealed, but they have all proved ineifectuaL The debates have been very warm on the bu- siness ; and the names of the majority, who voted for the continuation of it, have been pub-- lished, to expose them if possible to infamy ; but so maiiy have sheltered themselves under its sanction, and so many still find an interest in its continuance, that it is not likely to be jgpeedily repealed. The houses in Norfolk are about five hun- dred in number ; by far the greater part of them arc of wood, and but meanly built. These have all been erected since the year 1776; when the town was totally destroyed by fire, by the order of Lord Dunmore, then 10 174 TRATELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA* regal governor of Virginia. The losses sus^ tained on that occasion were estimated at 300,000/. sterling. Towards the harbour the streets are narrow and iri egular ; in the other parts of the town they are tolerably wide; none of them are paved, and all are filthy ; indeed, in the hot months of summer, the stench that proceeds from some of them is horrid. That people can be thus inatten- tive to cleanliness, which is so conducive to health, and in a town where a sixth part of the people died in one year of a pestilential disorder, is most wonderful ! ! * ^ The yellow fever, which has committed such dreadful ravages of late years in America^ is certainly to be consi- dered as a sort of plague. It first appeared at Philadelphia in the year 1/93 5 in 1794 it appeared at Baltimore j m 1795, at New York and Norfolk j and in 1796, though the matter was hushed up as much as possible, in order to prevent an alarm, similar to that which had injured the city so much the preceding year, yet in New York a far greater number of deaths than usual were heard of during the summer and autumn, strongly supposed to hav'e been oc- casioned by the same malignant disorder. The accounts given of the calamitous consequences atten- dant upon it, in these different places, are all much alike, and nearly similar to those given of the plague : — The peo» pie dying suddenly, and uuder the most shocking circum- stances — such as were well, flying away — the sick aban- doned, and perishing for w^nt of common necessaries- — the dead buried in heaps together without any ceremony — chanty at an end — the ties of friendship and consanguinity disregarded by many — others, on the contrary, nobly com- lug VELLOW FEVER. 175 Amongst the inhabitants are great numbers of Scotch and French. The latter are almost ing forward, and at the hazard of their own lives doing all in their power to reheve tlieir fellow citizens, and avert the general woe. — At Philadelphia, in the space of about three months, no less than four thousand inhabitants were swept off by this dreadful malady, a number, at that time, amounting to about one tenth of the wdiole. Baltimore and New York did not suffer so severely j but at Norfolk, which is computed to contain about three thousand people, no less than five hundred fell victims to it. The disorder has been treated very differently by different physicians, and as some few have survived under each sys- tem that has been tried^ no general one has yet been adopt- ed. I was told., however, by several people in Norfolk, whb resided in the most sickly part of the town during the whole time the fever lasted, that as a preventative medicine^, a strong mercurial purge was very generally administered, and afterwards Peruvian bark ; and that few of those who had taken this medicine were attacked by the fever. AH how- ever that can be done by medicine to stop the progress of the disorder, when it has broke out in a town, seems to be of no very great effect 5 for as long as the excessive hot weather la^ts the fever rages, but it regularly disappears on the ap- proach of cold weather. With regard to its origin thers have been various opinions ; some have contended that it was fmported into every place where it appeared from the West Indies 5 others, tiiat it was generated in the country. These opinions have been ably supported on either side of the question by medical men, who resided at the different places where the fever has appeared. There are a few no- torious circumstances, however, which lead me, as an indi- vidual, to think that the fever has been generated on the American continent. In the first place, the fever has always broken out in tijose parts of towns which were most closely 1T6 TRAVELS THROWH NORTH AMERICA: entirely from the West Indies, and principally from St. Domingo. In such prodigious num- bers did they flock over after the British forces had got footing in the French islands, that be-^ tween two and three thousand were in Norfolk at one time ; most of them, however, after- wards dispersed themselves throughout dif- ferent parts of the country ; those who staid in the town opened little shops of different kinds, and amongst them I found many who had been in affluent circctmstances before they were driven from their homes. A strong party spirit has always been pre- valent amongst the American inhabitants of this town ; so much so, that a few years ago, built, and where the streets have been suffered through negligence to remain foul and nast}^^ in the second place, it has regularly broken out during the hottest time of the year, in the month of July and August, when the air on the American coast is for the most part stagnant and sultry, iind when vegetable and animal matter becomes putrid iq an incredible short space of time 3 thirdly, numbers of people died of the disorder in New York, in the year 1 79^y notwithstanding that every West Indian vessel which en- tered the port that season was examined by the health of^ ficer, a regular bred physician, and that evexy one suspect-t ed was obliged to perform quarantine. The people in New York are so fully persuaded that the fever originates in America from putrid matter, tliat they have stopped up one or two docks, which were receptacles for the filth of the neighbourhood, and which contaminated the air whea the tide was out. GbAVE VARDS. 177 when some English and French Vessels of war were lying in Hampton roads^ and the sailors^ from cach^ on shore, the whole people were up and ready to join them^, on the one side or the other, in open contest 7 but the mayor drew out the militia, and sent them to their respec- tive homes. Here are two churches^ one for episcopa- lians, the other for methodists. In the for-- mer, service is not performed more than once in two or three weeks, and very little regard is paid by the people in general to Sunday. In- deed, throughout the lower parts of Virginia, that is, between the mountains and the sea,, the people have scarcely any sense of religion, and in the country parts the churches are all falling into decay. As I rode along, I scarcely observed any one that was not in a ruinous con-^ dition, with the windows broken, and doors dropping off the hinges, and lying open to the pigs and cattle wandering about the woods ; yet many of these were not past repair. The churches in Virginia, excepting such as are in towns, stand for the most part in the woods, retired from any houses, and it does not appear that any persons are appointed to pay the smallest attention to them„ A custom prevails in Norfolk, of private in- dividuals holding grave yards, which are look- ed upon as a very lucrative kind of property^, the VOL. I, if 178 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AxMERICA : owners receiving considerable fees annually giving permission to people to bury their dead in them. It is very common also to see^ in the large plantations in Virginia, and not far from the dwelling house, cemeteries walled in, where the people of the family are all buried. These cemeteries are generally built adjoining^^ the garden. LETTER XIV. Description of Dismal Sxoamp. — Wild Men found in it. — BearSj Wolves^ S^c. — Country bchoeen Sivamp and BicJwiond.—jyiode of viaking Tar and Pitch, — Poor Soil. — Wretched Taverns. — Corn Bread. — Diffi" cuUy of getting Food for Horses.— Peters- burgh. — Horse Paces there. ^Description of Virginian Horses.- — Stile of Riding in Ame- rica. — Description of Richmond, Capital of Virginia. — Singidar Bridge across James. River. — State House. —Falls of James River. — Gambling common in Richmond. — Lower Classes of People very quarrelsome^ ' — Their Mode of Fighting. — Gouging. Richmond, May» ' FROM Norfolk I went to look at the great Dismal Swamp, which commences at the dis- tance of nine miles from the town, and ex-- GREAT SWAMP. It9 tends iato North Carolina, occupying in the whole about one hundred and fifty thousand acres. This great tract is entirely covered with trees; juniper and cypress trees grow where there is most moisture^ and on the dry parts., white and red oaks and a variety of pines. These trees grow to a most enormous size^ and between them, the brushwood springs up so thick that the swamp in many parts is abso- lutely impervious. In this respect it differs to- tally from the common woods in the country. I t abounds also with cane reeds^, and with loHg rich grass^ upon which cattle feed with great avidity^ and become fat in a very short space of time ; the caues, indeed^ are considered to be the very best green food that can be givea to them. The people who live on the borders of the Swamp drive all their cattle into it to feed ; care however is taken to train them to come back regularly to the farms every night by themselves^ otherwise it would be impos- sible to fi^od them. This is effected by turn- ing into the swamp with them^ for the first few weeks they are sent thither to feed, two or three old milch cows accustomed to the place, round whose neck are fastened small bells. The cows come back every evening to be milked ; the rest of the cattle herd with these, following the noise of the bells, and when they return to the farm, a handful of salt, or some- n2 180 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTK AMERICA: thini^ of which tiiey are equally fond, is given to each as an inducement for them to return again. In a short time the cattle become fa- miliar with the place, and having been accus- tomed from the first day to return^ they regu- larly walk to the farms every evening. In the interior parts of the Swamp large herds of wild cattle are found, most probably originally lost on being turned in to feed. Bears, wolves, deer, and other wild indigenous animals, are also met with there. Stories are common in the neighbourhood of wild men having been found in it, who were lo&t, it is^ supposed, in the Swamp when children. The Swamp varies very much in different parts ; in some, the surface of it is quite dry, and firm enough to bear a horse ; in others it Is overflowed with water ; and elsewhere so rmiry that a man would sink op to his neck if he attempted to w^alk upon it; in the driest part, if a trench is cut only a few feet deep, the water gushes in, and it is filled imme- diately. Where the canal to connect the water of Albemarle Sound with Norfolk i$ cut, the water in many places flows in f/om the sides, at the depth of three feet from the surface, in large streams, without intermis- sion; in its colour it exactly resembles brandy, which is supposed to be occasioned by the roots of the jumper trees ; it is perfectly clear €ANAt. ISl however, and by no means unpalatable : it is €aid to possess a diuretic quality, and the peo-^ pie in the neighbourhood, who think it very wholesome, prefer it to any other. Certainly there is something very uncommon in the na- ture of this Swamp, for the people living up- on the borders of it, do not sufter by fever and ague, or bilious complaints, as is generally the case with those resident in the neighbourhood pf other swamps and marshes. Whether it is the medicinal quality of the water, however^ which keeps them in better health or not, I do not pretend to determine. As the Dismal Swamp lies so very near to Norfolk, where there is a constant demand for shingles, staves, &c. for exportation, and as the very best of these different articles are made from the trees grown upon the swamp, it of course becomes a very valuable species of property. Tlie canal which is now cutting through it, will also enhance its value, as when it is completed, lumber can then be readily sent from the remotest parts. The more southern parts of it, when cleared, answer uncommonly well for the culture of rice ; but in the neighbourhood of Norfolk, as far as ten feet deep from the surface, there seems to be nothing but roots and fibres of differ- ent herbs mixed with a whitish sand, which would not answer for the purpose, as rice 182 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: requires a very rich soil. The trees, however, that grow upon it, are a most profitable crop, and instead of cutting them all down promis cuously, as commonly is done, they only fell such as have attained a large size, by which means they have a continued succession for. the manufacture of those articles I mentioned. Eighty thousand acres of the Swamp are the property of a company incorporated under the title of The Dismal Swamp Company/' Be- fore the war broke out a large number of ne- groes was constantly employed by the com- pany in cutting and manufacturing staves, &c. and their affairs were going on very prospe- rously ; but at the time that Norfolk was burnt they lost all their negroes, and very little ha^ been done by them since. The number that is now sent to Norfolk, is taken principally off those parts of the swamp which are private property. From the Dismal swamp to Richmond, a distance of about one hundred and forty miles, along the south side of James River, the coun- try is flat and sandy, and for rqiles together entirely covered with pine trees. In Nanse- monde county, bordering on the Swamp, the goil is so poor that but very little corn or grain is raised ; it answers well however for peach orchards, which are found to be very profitable. From the peaches they make ACCOMiMOBATION, 1S3 brandy/ and when proper!}/ mattired it is aa excellent liquor^, and much esteemed ; they give it a very delicious flavour in this part of the country^ by infusing dried pears in it. Spirit and water is the universal beverage throughout Virginia. They also make consi- derable quantities of tar and pitch from the pine trees. For this purpose a sort of pit is d»g, in which they burn large piles of the trees. The tar runs out, and is deposited at the bottom of the pit, from whence it is taken, cleared of the bits of charcoal that may be mixed with it, and put into barrels. The tar, inspissated by boiling, makes pitch. The accommodation at the taverns along this road I found most w retched ; nothing was to be had but rancid fish, fat salt pork, and bread made of Indian corn. For this indiffer- ent fare also I had to wait oftentimes an hour or two. Indian corn bread, if well made^ is tolerably good, but very few people can relish it on the first trial ; it is a coarse, strong kind of bread, which has something of the taste of that made from oats. The best way of preparing it is in cakes ; the large loaves made of it are always like dough in the middle. There is a dish also which they iiiake of Indian corn, very common in Vir- ginia and Maryland, called, hominy.'* It i^^asists of pounded Indian corn and beans 184 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : boiled together with milk till the whole mast becomes firm. This is eat^ either hot or cold, with bacon, or with other meat. As for my horses, they were almost starved* Hay is scarcely ever made use of in this part of the country^ but in place of it they feed their cattle upon fodder, that is, the leaves of the Indian corn plant. Not a bit of fodder^ however, was to be had on the whole road from Norfolk to Richmond, excepting at two places ; and the season having been remark-^ ably dry, the little grass that had sprung up had been eat down every where by the cattle in the country. Oats were not to be had on any terms; and Indian corn was so scarce, that I had frequently to send to one or two differ^ ent houses before I could get even sufficient to give one feed each to my horses. The peo-^ pie in the country endeavoured to account for this scarcity, from* the badness of the harvest the preceding year ; but the fact, I believe^ was, that corn for exportation having been in great demand, and a most enormous price of-- fered for it, the people had been tempted to dispose of a great deal more than they could well spare. Each person w as eager to sell his own to such advantage^ and depended upon, getting supplied by his neighbour, so that they were all reduc. li to want. Petersburgh stands at the he^d of the na- HORSE RACING. J85 vrgable part of Appamatox River, and is the only place of consequence south of James River, between Norfolk and Richmond, The rest of the towns, which are but very smalL ^eem to be fast on the decline, and present a miserable and melancholy appearance. The houses in Petersbure^h amount to about three hundred ; they are built without any regu- larity. The people who inhabit them are mostly foreigners ; ten families are not vo be found in the town that have been born in it. A very flourishing trade is carried on in this place, ^bout two thousand four hundred hogsheads of tobacco are inspected annually at the warehouses; and at the Falls of the Appa- matox River, at the upper end of the town, are some of the best flour mills in the state. Great crowds were assembled at this place, as I passed through, attracted to it by the horse races, which take place four or five times in the year. Horse racing is a favourite amusement in Virginia ; and it is carried on with spirit in difrerent parts of the state. The best bred horses which they have are imported from England ; but still some of those raised at home are very good. They usually ran for purses made up by subscription. The only particular circumstance in their mode of car- rying on their races in Virginia is that they 186 TKAYELS THROUGH NORTE AMERICA : always run to the left ; the horses are com- monly rode by negro boys^ some of Vrhomi are really good jockeys. The horses in commoa use in Virginia are all of a light description, chiefly adapted for the saddle ; some of them are handsome^ but they are for the most part spoiled by the false gaits which they are taught. The Virginians are wretched horsemen, as indeed are all the Americans I ever met with^ excepting some few in the neighbourhood of New York. They sit with their toes just under thehorse*s nose^ their stirrups being left extremely long, and the saddle put about three or four inches forward on the mane. As for the manage- ment of the reins, it is what they have no conception of. A trot is odious to them, and they express the utmost astonishment at a person who can like that uneasy gait^ as they call it. The favourite gaits which all their horses are taught, are a pace and a wrack. In the first;, the animal moves his two feet on one side at the same time^, and gets on with a sort of shuffling motion, being unable to spring from the ground on these two feet as in a trot. We should call this an unnatural gait, as none of our horses would ever move in that manner without a rider ; but the Ame- ricans insist upon it that it is otherwise^ be- cause many of tiieir foals pace as soon as bora. RfCHMOND, 18? Tiiese kind of horses are called natural pacers/' and it is a matter of the utmost diffi- cult}' to make them move in any other man- ner ; but it is not one horse in five hundred that would pace without being taught. In the wracks the horse gallops with his fore feetj and trots with those behind. This is a gait equally devoid of grace with the other, and equally contrary to nature ; it is very fa-- tiguing also to the horse : but the Virginian finds it more conducive to his ease than a fair gallop, and this circumstance banishes every other consideration. The people in this part of the country, bor-- dering upon James River, are extremely fond of an entertainment wliich they call a bar- bacue. It consists in a large party meeting to- gether, either under some trees, or in a house, to partake of sturgeon or pig roasted in the open air, on a sort of hurdle, over a slow fire ; this, however, is an entertainment chiefly confined to the lower ranks, and like most others of the same nature, it generally ends in intoxication. Richmond, the capital of Virginia, is situat- ed immediately below the Falls of James River, on the north side. The river opposite to the town is about four hundred yards wide, and is crossed by means of two bridges, w hich are se- parated by an island that lies nearly in the jnid- 183 TRAVEtS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: die of the river. The bridge^ leading from the south shore to the island, is built upon fifteen large fiat-bottomed boats, keep stationary in the river by strong chains and anchors. The bows of them, which are very sharp, are put asrainst the stream, and fore and aft there is a jrtrong beam, upon which the piers of the bridge rest. Between the island and the town, the water being shallower, the bridge is built upon piers formed of square casements of logs filled with stones. To this there is no railing, and the boards with which it is covered are so loose, that it is dangerous to ride a horse across it that is not accustomed to it. The bridges thrown across this river, opposite the town, have re- peatedly been carried away ; it is thought idle^, therefore, to go to the ex pence of a better one than what exists at present. The strongest stone bridge could hardly resist the bodies of ice that are hurried down the Fails by the floods on the breaking up of a severe winter. Though the houses in Richmond are not more than seven hundred in number, yet they extend nearly one mile and a half along the banks of the river. The lower part of the tovv according to the course of the river, k b'jilt close to the water, and opposite to it lies the shipping ; this is connected with the upper town by a long street, which runs parallel to the course of the river, about fiftv yards remor^ 4 &TATEHOUSE. 189 cd from the banks. The situation of the upper town is very pleasing; it stands on an elevated spot, and commands a fine prospect of the Falls of the river^ and of the adjacent country on the opposite side. The best houses stand here, and also the capitol or statehouse. From the op- posite side of the river this building appears extremely y»^ell, as its defects cannot be ob- served at that distance, but on a closer in- spection it proves to be a clumsy ill shapen pile. The original plan was sent over from France by Mr. Jefferson, and had great merit ; but his ingenious countrymen thought they could im- prove it^ and to do so, placed what was in- tended for the attic story^ in the plaU;, at the bottom, and put the columns on the top of if, in many other respects, likewise, the plan wa« inverted. This building is finished entirely with red brick ; even the columns themselves are formed of brick ; but to make them appear like stone, they have been partially whitened with common whitewash. The inside of the build- ina; is but very little better than its exterior part. The principal room is for the house of representatives ; this is used also for divine ^ service, as there is no such thing as a church in the town. The vestibule is circular^ and very dark; it is to be ornamented with a statue of General Washington, executed by an emi- aent artist in France, which arrived while I 190 TRAVELS TUnoUGH NORTH AMERICA t >yas in the town. Ugly and ill contrived this building is^ a stranger must not attempt to find fault with any part of it^ for it is looked upon by the inhabitants as a most elegant fabric. The Falls in the river^ or the Rapids, as they should be called, extend six miles above the eitv, in the course of which there is a descent 4/ of about eighty feet. The river is here full of large rocks, and the water rushes over them in some places with great impetuosity. A canal is completed at the north side of these Falls, which renders the navigation complete from Richmond to the Blue Mountains, and at particular times of the year, boats with light burthens can proceed still higher up. In the river opposite the town, are no more than seven feet water, but ten miles lower down about twelve feet. Most of the vessels trading to Richmond unlade the greater part of their cargoes at this place into river craft, and then proceed up to the town. Trade is carried on here chiefly by foreigners, as the Virginians have but little inclination for it, and are too fond of amusement to pursue it with much success. Richmond contains about four thousand in- habitants, one half of whom are slaves. Amongst the freemen are numbers of lawyers, who, with the officers of the state government, and se- GAMBLING. 19^1 veral that live retired on their fortunes, reside in the upper town ; the other part is inhabited principally by the traders. Perhaps in no place of the same she in the world is there more gambling going forward than in Richmond. I had scarcely alighted from my horse at the tavern, when the landlord came to ask what game I was most partial to^ as in such a room there vv as a faro table, in another a hazard table, in a third a billiard table, to any one of which he w as ready to conduct me. Not the smallest secrecy is em- ployed in keeping these tables ; they are al- ways crowded with people, and the doors of the apartment are only shut to prevent the rab- ble from coming in. Indeed, throughout the lower part of the country in Virginia, and also in that part of Maryland next to it, there is scarcely a petty tavern without a billiard room, and this is always full of a set of idle low-lived fellows, drinking spirits or playing cards, if not engaged at the table. Cock-fighting is also another favourite diversion. It is chiefly, how- ever, the lower class of people that partake of these amusements at the taverns ; in private there is, perhaps, as little gambling in Virginia as in any other part of America, The circum- stance of having the taverns thus infested by such a set of people, renders travelling ex- tremely unpleasaiit. Many times I l?ave been 192 TRAVELS THROUGk NORTH AMERICA* forced to proceed much farther iii a day than I have wished^ in order to avoid the scenes of rioting and quarrelling that I have met %vith at the taverns^ which it is impossible to escape as long as you remain in the same house where fhey are carried on, for every apartment is considered as common, and that room iu which a stranger sits down is sure to be the most frequented. Whenever these people come to blows, they fight just like wild beasts^ biting, kicking, and endeavouring to tear each other's ejes out with their nails. It is by no means uncommon to meet with those who have lost an eye in a combat, and there are men who pride them- selves upon the dexterity w ith w^hich they can scoop one out. This is called gouging. To perform the horrid operation^ the combatant twists his forefingers in the side locks of his adversary's hair, and then applies his thumbs to the bottom of the eye, to force it out of the socket. If ever there is a battle, in which neither of those engaged loses an eye^ their faces are however generally cut in a shocking manner with the thumb-nails, in the many attempts which are made at gouging. But what is worse than all, these wretches in their combat endeavour to their utmost to tear out each other's testicles. Four or five instances came within my own observation^ as I passed ( 19S ) through Maryland and Virginia, of men be- ing confined in their beds from the injuries which they had received of this nature in a fight. In the Carolinas and Georgia, I have been credibly assured, that the people are still more depraved in this respect than in Virginia, and that in some particular parts of these states, «very third or fourth man appears with one eye. LETTER XVL Description of Virginia detween Richmond and the Mountains. — Fragrance of Flowers and Shrubs in the Woods. — Melody of the Birds. — Of the Birds of Virginia. — Mocking Bird — Blue Bird — Red Birdy 8;c. — Singidar JSToises of the Frogs. — Columbia. — Magazine there.— Fire Flies in the Woods. — Green Springs. — Wretchedness of the Accommoda- tion there. — Difficult^/ of fjiding the Waij through the Woods. — Serpents — Rattle Snake —Copper Snake — Black Snake. — South-west^ or Green Mountains. — Soil of them. — JMoun- tain Torrents do great Damage. — Salubrity of the Climate. — Great Beauty of the Pea-- f^antry. — Many Gentlemen of Property living here. — Monticello, the Scat of Mr, VOL. I. O 194 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: Jefferson. — Vineyards, — Observations on tJie Culture of the Grape, and the Manufacture of Wine. Monticello, May* HAVING staid at Ricliraond somewhat longer than a week, which I found absolutely necessary, if it had only been to recruit the strength of my horses, that had been half starved in coming from Norfolk, I proceeded in a north-westerly direction towards the South- west or Green Mountains. The country about Richmond is sandy, but not so much so, nor as flat as on the south side of James River towards the sea. It now wore a most pleasing aspect. The first week in May- had arrived ; the trees had obtained a consi- derable part of their foliage, and the air in the woods was perfumed with the fragrant smell of numberless flowers and flowering shrubs^ which sprang up on all sides. The music of the birds was also delightful. It is thought that in Virginia the singing birds are finer than what are to be met with on any other part of the continent, as the climate is more congenial to them, being neither so intensely hot in sum- mer as that of the Carolinas, nor so cold in winter as that of the more northern states. The notes of the mocking bird or Virginian nightingale are in i)articular most melodious. VIRGINIAN BIRDS. 195 This bird is of the colour and about the size of a thrush^ but more slender ; it imitates the song of every other bird,, but with increased strength and sweetness. The bird whose song it mocks generally flies away^ as if conscious of being excelled by the other^ and dissatisfied with its own powers. It is a remark^ how- ever^ made by Catesby, and which appears to be a very just one^ that the birds in America are much inferior to those in Europe in the melody of their notes, but that they are supe- rior in point of plumage. I know of no Ameri- can bird that has the rich mellow note of our black-bird;, the sprightly note of the sky-lark^ or the sweet and plaintive one of the nightin- gale. After having listened to the mocking bird there is no novelty in hearing the song of any other bird in the country ; and indeed their songs are for the most part but very simple in themselves^ though combined they are pleas- ing. The most remarkable for their plumage of those commonly met with, are, the blue bird and the red bird. The first is about the size of a linnet ; its back, head, and w ings are of dark yet bright blue ; when flying the plumage appears to the greatest advantage. The red bird is larger than a sky lark, though smaller than a thrush ; it is of a vermilion colour, and 0% 196 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: has a small tuft on its head* A few humming birds make their appearance in summer^ but their plumage is not so beautiful as those found more to the southv/ard. Of the other common birds there are but few worth notice. Doves and quails^ or par- tridges as they are sometimes called^ afford good diversion for the sportsman. These last birds in their habits are exactly similar to Eu- ropean partridges^ excepting that they alight sometimes upon trees; their size is that of the quail^ but they are neither the same as the Eng- lish quail or the English partridge. It is the same with many other birds^ as jays,, robins, larks^ pheasants^ &c. which were called by the English settlers after the birds of the same name in England^ because they bore some re- semblance to them^, though in fact they are materially different. In the lower parts of Vir- ginia^ and to the southward^ are great numbers of large birds^, called turkey buzzards^ which, when mounted aloft on the wing, look like eagles. In Carolina there is a law prohibiting the killing these birds, as they feed upon putrid carcases, and therefore contribute to keep the air wholesome. There is only one bird more which I shall mention, the whipper- will, or whip-poor-will, as it is sometimes called, from the plaintive noise that it makes ; to my ear it sounded wyp-o-il. It begins to COLUMBIA. 197 ^iiake this noise^ ^Thicll is heard a great \Yay ©fF, about dusk^ and continues it through the greater part of the night. This bird is so very wary^ and so few instances have occurred of its being seen, much less taken^, that many have imagined the noise does not proceed from a bird, but from a frog, especially as it is heard most frequently in the neighbourhood of low grounds. The frogs in America, it must here be ob- served, make a most singular noise^, some of them absolutely whistling, whilst others croak %o loudlv, that it is difficult at times to tell whether the sound proceeds from a calf or a frog : I have more than once been deceived by the noise when walking in a meadov*^. These last frogs are called bull frogs ; they mostly keep in pairs, and are never found but where there is good water ; their bodies are from four to seven inches long^ and their legs are in proportion ; they are extremely active, and take prodigious leaps. The first town I reached on going towards the mountains was Columbia, or Point of Fork, as it is called in the neighbourhood. It is situated about sixty miles above Richmond, at the confluence of Rivanna and Fluvanna rivers, which united form James River. This is a flourishing little place, containing about forty houses, and a warehouse for t^'* m<^pection of 198 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA! tobacco. On the neck of land between the two rivers^ just opposite to the town, is the magazine of the state, in which are kept twelve thousand stand of arms, and about thirty tons of powder. The low lands bordering, upon the river in this neighbourhood are ex- tremely valuable. From Columbia to the Green Springs^ about twenty miles farther on, the road runs almost wholly through a pine forest, and is very lonely. Night came on before I got to the end of it^ and, as very commonly happens with travellers in this part of the world, I soon lost my way, A light however, seen through the trees^ seemed to indicate that a house was not far off: my servant eagerly rode up to it, but the poor fellow's consternation was great indeed when he observed it moving from him, pre- sently coming back, and then with svfiftness departing again into the woods. I w as at a loss for a time myself to account for the ap- pearance, but after proceeding a little farther, I observed the same sort of light in many other places, and dismounting from my horse to ex- amine a bush where one of these sparks ap- peared to have fallen, I found it proceeded from the fire fly. As the summer came on, these flies appeared every night : after a light shower in the afternoon, I have seen the woods sparkling with them in every quarter. The GREEN SPRING3, 199 light is emitted from the tail^ and the animal has the power of emitting it or not at pleasure. * After wandering about till it was near eleven o'clock^ a plantation at last appeared^ and having got fresh information respecting the road from the negroes in the quarter^, who generally sit up half the nighty and over a fire in all seasons^ I again set out for the Green Springs. With some difficulty I at last found the way^ and arrived there about midnight. The hour was so unseasonable^ that the people at-the tavern were very unwilling to open their doors ; and it was not till I had related the his- tory of my adventures from the last stage two or three times that they could be prevailed upon to let me in. At last a tall fellow in his shirt came grumbling to the door^ and told mb I might come in if I would. I had now a par- ley for another quarter of an hour to persuade him to give me some corn for my horses^ which he was very unwilling to do ; but at last he complied^ though much against his inclina- tion^ and unlocked the stable door. Returning to the house^ I was shewn into a room about ten feet square, in which were two filthy beds sw arming with bugs ; the ceiling had moul- dered away, and the walls admitted light ia various places ; it was a happy circumstance, however^ that these apertures were in the wall^ 200 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA ! for the window of the apartment was insuf- ficient in itself to admit either light or fresh air. Here I would fain have got something to eatj if possible^, but not even so much as a piece of bread was to be had ; indeed^ in this part of the country they seldom think of keeping bread ready made^ but just prepare suSicient for the meal about half an hour before it is wanted^ and then serve it hot. Unable there- fore to procure any food^ and fatigued with a long journey during a parching day^, I threw myself down on one of the beds in my clothes^ and enjoyed a profound repose^ notwithstand- ing the repeated onsets of the bugs and other vermin with which I was molested. Besides the tavern and the quarters of the slaves^ there is but one more building at this place. This is a large farm house^ where peo- ple that resort to the springs are accommodated w itli lodgings^ about as good as those at the tavern. These habitations stand in the centre of a cleared spot of land of about fifty acres, surrounded entirely with wood. The springs ate just on the margin of the wood^ at the bottom of a slope^ which begins at the houses, and are covered with a few boards, merely to keep the leaves from falling in. The waters are chalybeate, and are drank chiefly by per- / sons from the low country, whose constltu- SNAKES, 201 tions have been relaxed by tlie lieats ofsimi- mer. Having breakfasted in the morning at this miserable little place^, I proceeded on my jour- ney up this South-west Mountain. In the course of the day's ride I observed a great number of snakes^ which were now beginning to come forth from their holes. I killed a black one^ that I found sleeping, stretched across the road ; it was five feet in length. The black snake is more commoidy met with than any other in this part of America^ and is usually from four to six feet in length. In proportion to the length it is extremely slender ; the back is perfectly blacky the belly lead colour, in- clining to white towards the throat. The bite of this snake is not poisonous, and the people in that country are not generally inclin- ed to kill it, from its great utility in destroying* rats and mice. It is w onderfully fond of milk, and is frequently found in the dairies, vdiich in Virginia are for the most part in low situa- tions, like cellars, as the milk could not other- wise be kept sweet for two hours together in summer time. The black snake^. at the time of copulation, immediately pursues any person who comes in sights and with such swiftness, that the best runner cannot escape froib him upon even ground. Many other sorts of harm- ies gnakes are found here^ some 4)f which are ^02 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: beautifully variegated^ as the garter^ the rib- bon, the blueish green snake, &c. &c. Of the venomous kind, the most common are the rattle snake, and the copper orTnocassin snake. The former is found chiefly on the mountains ; but although frequently met with, it is very rarely that people are bitten by it ; scarcely a summer, however, passes over without several being bit by the copper snake. The poison of the latter is not so subtile as that of the rattle snake, but it is very injurious, and if not at- tended to in time, death will certainly ensue. The rattle snake is very dull, and never at- tacks a person that does not molest him ; but, at the same time, he will not turtl out of the way to avoid any one ; before he bites, he al- ways gives notice by shaking his rattles, so that a person that hears them can readily get out of his way. The copper snake, on the contraryj, is more active and treacherous, and, it is said, will absolutely put himself in the way of a per- son to bite him. Snakes are neither so nu- mero\is nor so venomous in the northern as in the southern states. Horses^ cows, dogs, and fowl, seem to have an innate sense of the dan- ger they are exposed to from these poisonous reptiles, and will shew evident symptorfis of ^ fear on approaching near them, although they are dead ; but what is remarkable, hogs, so far from being afraid of them, pursue and devour MOUNTAINS. 203 fliem with the greatest avidity, totally regard- less of their bites. It is supposed that the great quantity of fat with which they are furnished, prevents the poison from operating on their bodies as on those of other animals. Hog s lard, it might therefore reasoEably be con- jectured, would be a good remedy for the bite of a snake : however, I never heard of its being tried; the people generally apply herbs to the wound, the specific qualities of vbich are well known. It is a remarkable instance of the bounty of Providence, that in all those parts of the country where these venomous reptiles abound, those herbs which are the most certain antidote to the poison are found in the greatest plenty. The South-west Mountains run nearly pa- rallel to the Blue Ridge, and are the first which you come to on going up the country from the sea-coast in Virginia. These moun- tains are not lofty, and ought indeed rather to be called hills than mountains; they are not seen till you come within a very few miles of them, and the ascent is so gradual, that you get upon their top almost without per- ceiving it. The soil here changes to a deep argillaceous earth, particularly well suited to the cul- ture of small grain and clover, and produces abundant crops. As this earth, how ever^ does 204 TRAVELS TimOUGII NORTH AMERICA : not absorb the water very quickly, the farmer is exposed to great losses from heavy falls of rain ; the seed is liable to be washed out of the ground^ so that sometimes it is found ne- cessary to sow a field two or three different times before it becomes green ; and if great care be not taken to guard such fields as lie on a declivity by proper trenches^ the crops are sometimes entirely destroyed^ even after they arrive at maturity ; indeed, very often^ notwithstanding the vitmost precautions, the water departs from its usual channel, and sweeps away all before it. After heavy tor- rents of rain, I have frequently seen all the negroes iii a farrii dispatched with hoes and spades to different fields, to be ready to turn the course of the water, in case it should take an improper direction. On the sides of the mountain, where the ground has been worn out with the culture of tobacco, and left waste, and the water has been suffered to run in the same channel for a length of time, it is surprising to see the depth of the ravines or gullies, as they are called, which it has formed. They are just like so many precipices, and are insurmountable barriers to the passage from one side of the mountain to the other. Notwithstanding such disadvantages, how- ever, the country in the neighbourhood of these mountains is far more populous than CLIMATE, f05 that wliich lies towards Richmond; and there are many persons that even consider it to be the garden of the United States. All the productions of the lower part of Virginia may be had here^ at the same time that the heat is never found to be so oppressive ; for in the hottest months in the year^ there is a freshness and elasticity in the air unknown in the low country. The extremes of heat and cold are found to be 90"^ and 6^ above cipher, but it is not often that the thermometer rises above and the winters arc so mild in ge- neralj that it is a very rare circumstance for the snow to lie for three days together upon the ground. The salubrity of the climate is equal also to that of any part of the United States; and the inhabitants have in consequence a healthy ruddy appearance. The female part of the peasantry in particular is totally differ- ent from that in the low country. Instead of the pale, sickly, debilitated beings, whom you meet with there, you find amongst these moun- tains many a one that would be a fit subject to be painted for a Lavinia. It is really de- lightful to behold the groups of females, as- sembled here, at times, to gather the cherries ajid other fruits, which grow in the greatest abundance in the neighbourhood of almost every habitation. Their shapes and complex- 206 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : ions a?e charming; and the carelessness of their dresses, which consibt of little more, in common, than a simple bodice and petticoat^ makes them appear even still more engaging. The common people in this neighbourhood appeared to me to be of a more frank and open disposition, more inclined to hospita- lity, and to live more contentedly on what they possessed, than the people of the same class in any other part of the United States I passed through. From being able, however, to procure the necessaries of life upon very easy terms, they are rather of an indolent ha- bit, and inclined to dissipation. Intoxication is very prevalent, and it is scarcely possible to meet with a man who does not begin the day with taking one, two, or more drams, as soon as he rises. Brandy is the liquor which they principall}^ use, and having the greatest abun- dance of peaches, they make it at a very trifling expence. There is hardly a house to be found with two rooms in it, but where the inhabitants have a still. The females do not fall into the habit of intoxication like the men^ but in other respects they are equally dis- posed to pleasure, and their morals arc in like manner relaxed. ^ Along these mountains live several gentle- men of large landed property, who farm their own estates, as in the lower parts of Virginia ; MONTICELLO. 207 among the number is Mr. Jefferson from "v^hose seat I date this letter. His house is about three miles distant from Charlottesviile and two from Milton^ which is on the head waters of Rivanna River. It is most singularly situated, being built upon the top of a small mountain, the apex of which lias been cut off, so as to leave an area of about an acre and half At present it is in an unfinished state ; but if carried on according to tlie plan laid down, it w ill be one of the most elegant private habita- tions in the United States. A large apartment is laid out for a library and museum, meant to extend the entire breadth of the house, the windows of which are to open into an exten- sive green-house and aviary. In the centre is another very spacious apartment, of an octa- gon form, reaching from the front to the rear of the house, the large folding glass doors of which, at each end, open under a portico. An apartment like this, extending from front to back, is very common in a Virginian house; it is called the saloon, and during summer is the one generally preferred by the family, on ac- count of its being more airy and spacious than any other. The house commands a magnifi- cent prospect on one side, of the blue ridge of mountains for nearly forty miles, and on the Vice-president of the United States. 2G8 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA t opposite one^ of the low country, in appeal** ance like an extended heath covered with trees> the tops alone of which are visible. The mists and vapours arising from the low grounds give a continual variety to the scene. The moun- tain whereon the house stands is thickly wood- «d on one side^ and walks are carried round it;, w ith different degrees of obliquity, running into each other. On the south side is the gar- den and a large vineyard^, that produces abun- dance of fine fruit. Several attempts have been made in this neighbourhood to bring the manufacture of wine to perfection; none of them however have succeeded to the wish of the parties. A set of gentlemen once went to the expence even of getting six Italians over for the purpose, but the vines which the Italians found growing here were different^, as well as the soil, from what they had been in the habit of cultivating^ and they were not much more successful in the business than the people of the country. We must not, however, from hence conclude that good wine can never be manufactured upon these mountains. It is well known that the vines, and the mode of cultivating them, vary as much in different parts of Europe as the soil ix^ one country differs from that in another. It will require some time, therefore, and dif- ferent experiments, to ascertain the particular VINES. 209 kiad of vine^ and the mode of cultivating it^ best adapted to the soil of these mountains. This^ hovYever^ having been once ascertained^ there is every reason to suppose that the grape may be cultivated to the greatest perfection, as the climate is as favourable for the purpose as that of any country in Europe. By experi- ments also it is by no means improbable^ that they will;, in process of time, learn the best me- thod of converting the juice of the fruit into wine. LETTER XVL Gftlie Country betzoeen the South-west and Slue Mountains, — Copper and Iron Mines. — Lynchhurgh, — New London,— 'Armory here, —Description of the Road over the Blue Mountains. — Peaks of Otter ^ highest of the . Mountains. — Supposed Height — Much over" rated. — German Settlers numerous beyond the Blue Mountains. — Singidar Contrast betiveen the Country and the Inhahitants on each Side of the Mountains. — Of the Weevil — Of the Hessian Fly, — Bottetourt County. — Its Soil — Salubrity of the Climate. — Medicinal Springs here — Much frequented. Fincastle, May. THE country between the South-west mountains and the Blue Ridge is very fertile, and it is much more thickly inhabited than the YOL, I, p 210 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA ! lower parts of Virginia. The climate is goody and the people have a healthy and robust ap- pearance. Several valuable mines of iron and copper have been discovered here, for the work- ing of some of which, works have been esta- blished • but till the country becomes more po- pulous it cannot be expected that they will be carried on with much spirit. Having crossed the South-west Mountains^ I passed along through this country to Lynch- burgh, a town situated on the south side of Fluvanna River, one hundred and fifty miles above Richmond. This town contains about one hundred houses, and a warehouse for the inspection of tobacco, where about two thou-^ sand hogsheads are annually inspected. It has been built entirely within the last fifteen years, and is rapidly increasing, from its advantageous situation for carrying on trade with the adja- cent country. The boats, in which the pro- duce is conveyed down the river, are from forty- eight to fifty-four feet long, but very narrow in proportion to their breadth. Three men are sufficient to navigate one of these boats ; and they can go to Richmond and back again in ten days. They fall down with the stream, but work their way back again with poles. The cargo carried in these boats is always propor- tionate to the depth of water in the river, which varies very much. When I passed it to Lynch - BLUE MOUNTAINS, 211 burgh^ there was no difficulty in riding across, yet when I got upon the opposite banks I ob- served great quantities of weeds hanging upon the trees, considerably above my head though on horseback, evidently left there by a flood. This flood happened in the preceding Septem-- ber^ when the waters rose fifteen feet abov€ their usual level. A few miles from Lynchburgh, towards the Blue Mountains, is a small town called New London, in which there is a magazine, and also nn armory erected during the war. About fif- teen men were here employed, as I passed through, repairing old arms and furbishing up others ; and indeed, from the slovenly manner in which they keep their arms, I should imagine that the same number must be eonstanUy em- ployed all the year round. At one end of the room lay the musquets, to the amount of about five thousand, all together in a large heap, and at the opposite end lay a pile of leathern ac- coutrements, absolutely rotting for want of common attention. All the armories through- out the United States are kept much in the same style. Between this place and the Blue Mountains the country is rough and hilly, and but very thinly inhabited. The few inhabitants, how- ever, met with here, are imcommonly robust and tall ; it is rare to see a man amongst them f2 ^19 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH Al\Ti3RICA : w'lo is not six feet high. Th<»se people enter- tain a high opinion of their own superiority in point of bodily strength over the inhabitants of the low country. A similar race of men is found all along the Blue Mountains. The Blue Ridge h thickly covered wiih large trees to the very summit ; some of the moun- tains are rugged and extremely stony^ others are not so^ and on these last the soil is found to be rich and fertile. It is only in particular places that thisridge of mountains can be cross- ed, and at some of the gaps the ascent is steep and difficult ; but at the place where I crossed it> which was near the Peak of Otter, on the south si4<3^ instead of one great mountain to pass over^ as might be imagined from an inspec- tion cf the map^ there is a succession of small hill.^^ rising imperceptibly one above the other, m tuat you get upon the top of the Ridge before yoyi are aware of it. The Peaks of Otter are the highest moun- tains in the Blue Ridge, and measured from their bases, are supposed to be more lofty than any others in North America. According to Mr. Jefferson, whose authority has been quoted nearly by every person that has written on the subject since the publication of his Notes on Virginia, the principal peak is about four thousand feet in perpendicular height ; but it must bft observed, that Mr, Jefferson does not PEAKS OF OTTER. 21$ say that lie measured the height himself ; on the contrary^, he acknowledges t^iat the height of the mountains in America has never yet been as- certained with any degree of exactness ; it is only from certain data^ from which he says atolerable conjecture may be formed;, that he supposes this to be the height of the loftiest peak. Po- sitively to assert tliat this peak is not so high^, without having measured it in any mannerj would be absurd ; as I did not measure it, I do not therefore pretend to contradict Mr. Jeffer- son ; I have only to say, that the most elevated of the peaks of Otter appeared to me but a very insignficant mountain in comparison with Snowden^ in Wales ; and every person that I conversed with that had seen both, and I cpn- versed with many^ made the same remark. Now the highest peak of Snowden, is found, by triangular admeasurement, to be no more than three thousand five hundred and sixty-eight feet high, reckoning from the quay at Carnar- von. None of the other mountains in the Blue Ridge are supposed, from the same data, to be more than two thousand feet in perpendicular heiVht. Beyond the Blue Ridge, after crossing by this route near the Peaks of Otter, I met with but very few settlements till I drew near to Fincastle, in Bottetourt County. This town stands about twentv miles distant from the fit TRAVEL^ THROUGH NOfisTH AMERICA mountain, and about fifteen south of Fluvanna River. It was only begun about the year 1790^ yet it already contains sixty bouses, and is most yapidly increasing. The improvement of the adjacent country has likewise been very rapid, and land now bears nearly the same price tha^t it does in the neighbourhood of York and Lan« caster, in Pennsylvania. The inhabitants con- sist principally of Germans, who have extend- ed their settlements from Pennsylvania along the whole of that rich track of land which runs through the upper part of Maryland, and from thence behind the Blue Mountains to the most southern parts of Virginia. These people, as I before mentioned, keep very much together, and are never to be found but where the land is remarkably good. It is singular, that although they form three fourths of the inhabitants on the western side of the Blue Ridge, yet not OUQ of them is to be met with on the eastern side, notwithstanding that land is to be purchas- ed in the neighbourhood of the South-west Mountains for one fourth of what is paid for it in Bottetourt County. They have many times, I am told, crossed the Blue Ridge to examine the land, but the red soil which they found there was different from what they had been accustomed to, and the injury it was ex- posed to from the mountain torrents, always appeared to them an insuperable objection to COTTON. 215 i^ttHng in that part of the country. The differ- ence indeed between the country on the east- ern and on the western side of the Blue Ridge^ in Bottetourt County, is astonishing, when it is considered that both are under the same lati- tude, ^md that this difference is perceptible within the short distance of thirty miles. On the eastern side of the Ridge, cotton grows extremely well ; and in winter the snow scarcely ever remains more than a day or two upon the ground. On the other side, cotton never comes to perfection ; the winters are se- vere^ and the fields covered with snow for weeks together. In every farm yard you see sleighs or sledges, carriages used to run upon the snow. Wherever these carriages are met with, it may be taken for granted that the win- ter la&ts in that part of the country for a con- siderable length of time, for the people would never go to the expence of building them, without being tolerably certain that they would be useful. On the eastern side of the Blue Ridge, in Virginia, not one of these car- riages is to be met with. It has already been mentioned, that the predominant soil to the eastward of the Blue Ridge is a red earth, and that it is always a matter of some difficulty to lay down a piece pf land in grass, on account of the rains which 216 ' TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : are apt to wash away the sceds^ together with the mould on the surface. In Bottetourt County, on the contrary, the soil consists chiefly of a rich hrown mould, and throws up white clover spontaneously. To have a rich meadow, it is only necessary to leave a piece of ground to the hand of nature for one year. Again^ on the eastern side of the Bhie Mountains, scarce- ly any limestone is to be met with ; on the op- posite one, a bed of it runs entirely through the country, so that by some it is emphatically called The Limestone County. In sinking wells, they have always to dig fifteen or twenty feet through a solid rock to get at the water. Anolher circumstance may also be mention- ed as making a material diflerence beween the country on one side of the Blue Ridge and that on the other, namely, that behind the mountains the weevil i& unknown. The weevil is a small insect of the moth kind, which de- posits its eggs in the cavity of the grain, and particularly in that of wheat ; and if the crops p.re stacked or laid up in the barn in sheaves, the&e eggs are there hatched, and the grain is in corisequerite totally destroyed. To guard against this, in the lov/er parts of Virginia, and the other states where tbe weevil is common^ they always thresh out the grain as soon as the crops are brought in, and leave it in the chaff, which creates a degree of heat sufficient to de~ INSFXTS. 217 -gtroy the insect^ at the same time that it does not injure the wheat. This insect has been known in America but a very few years ; ac- cording to the general opinion, it originated on the eastern shore of Maryland^ where a person, in expectation of a great rise in the price of wheats kept over all his crops for the space of six years^ when they were found full of these insects ; from thence they have spread gra- dually over different parts of the country. For a considerable time the Patowmack River formed a barrier to their progress, and while the crops were entirely destroyed in Maryland, they remained secure in Virginia; but these insects at last found their way across the river. The Blue Mountains at present serve a3 a barrier^ and secure the country to the westward from their depredations^. * There is another insect, which in a sin^ilar manner made its appearance, and afterwards spread through a great part of the country, very injurious also to the crops. It is called the H^^ssian Fly, from having been brought over, as Is supposed, in some forage belonging to the Hessian troops, during the war. Tiiis insect lodges itself in different parts of the stalk while grecn^ and makes such rapid devastations, that a crop which appears in the best possible state will per- haps, be totally destroyed in the course of two or three days. In Maryland, they say, that if the land is very highly ma- nured, the Hessian fly never attacks the grain ; they also say, that crops raised upon land that has been worked for a long time are m.uch less exposed to injury from these in- ZlS TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA ? Bottetourt County is entirely surrounded by mountains ; it is also crossed by various ridges of mountains in different directions^ a circum- stance which renders the climate particularly agreeable. It appears to me, that there is no part of America where the climate would be more congenial to the constitution of a native of Great Britain or Ireland. The frost in win- ter is more regular^, but not severer than com- monly takes place in Jiose islands. In summer the heat is somewhat greater ; but there is not a night in the year that a blanket is not found Tery comfortable. Before ten o'clock in the morning the heat is greatest ; at that hour a bree^^e generally springs up from the moun- tains^ and renders the air agreeable the whole day. Fever and ague are disorders unknown liere^ and the air is so salubrious, that persons who come thither afflicted with it from the low country, towards the sea, get rid of it in 9- very shof t time. sects than the crops raised upon new land. If this is really the case, the appearance of the Flessian Fly should be con- .sidered as a circumstance rather beneficial than otherwise to the country, as it will induce the inhabitants to relinquish that ruinous practice of working the same piece of ground year after year till it is entirely worn out, and then leaving it waste, instead of taking some pains to improve it by manure. This fly is not knov/n at present south of the Patowmac River nor behind the Blue Ilido-e. MEDICINAL SPRINGS. 219 In tlie western part of the county are severed medicinal springs, whereto numbers of people resort towards the latter end of summer^ as much for the sake of escaping the heat in the low country, as for drinking the waters. Those most frequented are called the Sweet Springs, and are situated at the foot of the Alleghany Mountains. During the last season upwards of two hundred persons resorted to them with servants and horses. The accommodations at the springs are most wretched at present; but a set of gentlemen Irom South Carolina have^ I understand^ since I was there, purchased the place, and are going to erect several commo- dious dwellings in the neighbourhood^ for the reception of company. Besides these springs there are others in Jackson's Mountains, a ridge which runs between the Blue Mountains and the Alleghany. One of the springs here is warm, and another quite hot; a few paces from the latter, a spring of common water issues from the earth, but which, from the contrast, is generally thought to be as remarkable for its coldness as the water of the adjoining one is for its heat : there is also a sulphur spring near these ; leaves of trees falling into it be- come thickly incrusted with sulphur in a very ^ihort time, and silver is turned black almost Immediately. At a future period, the medicir S20 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : nal qualities of all these springs will probably be accurately ascertained ; at present they are but very little known. As for the relief ob- tained by those persons that frequent the Sweet Springs^ in particular^ it is strongly conjectur- ed that they are more indebted for it to the change of the climate than to the rare qualities of the vf ater. LETTER XVII. Descriptiori of the celebrated Rockbridge, and of an immense Cavern. — Description of the Shenandoah Valleij. — Inhabitants mostly Ger- oiians, — Soil and Climate. — Observations on American Landscapes. — Mode of cutting down Trees. — High Road to Kentucky, behind Blue Mountains.— Much frequented.— Uncouth, in-- quisitive People. — Lexington.— Staunton. — JWilitary Titles very common in America.'^ Causes thereof.^ Winchester. MY DEAR SIR, Philadelphia, November. AFTER remaining a considerable time in Eottetourt County^ I again crossed FUivan- na River in the cou^ity of Rockbridge^ so called from the remarkable natural bridge of rock that is iij it. This bridge stands about ten miles from Fluvanna Rivei% and nearly the same distance from the Blue Ridge. It ex- tends across a deep cleft in a mountain^ which, by some great convulsion of nature^, has been split asunder from top to bottom^ and it seems to have been left there purposely to aftbrd a passage from one side of the chasm to the other* The cleft or chasm is about two niiles long, and is in some places upwards of three hundred feet deep ; the depth varies according to the height of the mountain, being deepest where the mountain is most lofty. The breadth of the chasm also varies in different places : but in every part it is uniformly ¥/ider at the top than towards the bottom. That the two sides of the chasm w^ere once united appears very evi- dent, not only from projecting rocks on the one side corresponding with suitable cavities on the other, but also from the different strata of earth, sand, clay, &q. being exactly similar from top to bottom on both sides: but by what great agent they were separated, whether by fire or by water, remains hidden amongst those arcana of nature which we vainly en- ~ deavour to develope. The arch consists of a solid mass of stone^ or of several stones cemented so strongly to- gether that they appear but as one. This mass, it is to be supposed, at the time that 232 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : the hill was rent asunder^ was drawn across the fissure, from adhering closely to one side, and being loosened from its bed of earth at the opposite one. It seems as probable, I think, that the mass of stone forming the arch was thus forcibly plucked from one side, and drawn across the fissure, as that the hill should have remained disunited at this one spot from top to bottom, and that a passage should after- wards have been forced through it by water. The road leading to the bridge runs through a thick wood, and up a hill ; having ascended w hich, nearly at the top, you pause for a mo- ment at finding a sudden discontinuance of the trees at one side ; but the amazement which fills the mind is great indeed, when on going a few paces towards the part which ap- pears thus open, you find yourself on the brink of a tremendous precipice. You in- voluntarily draw back, stare around, then again come forward to satisfy yourself that what you have seen is real, and not the illu-^ sions of fancy. You now perceive, that you are upon the top of the bridge ; to the very edge of which, on one side, you may approach with safety, and look down into the abyss,, being protected from falling by a parapet of fixed rocks. The walls, as it were, of the bridge, at this side, are so perpendicular, that ^ person leaniug over the parapet of rock^ ROCKBRIDGE. 223 might let fall a plummet from the hand to the very bottom of the chasm. On the opposite side this is not the case^ nor is there any para- pet ; but from the e<3ge of the road, which runs over the bridge, is a gradual slope to the brink of the chasm, upon which it is somewhat dan- gerous to venture. This slope is thickly cover- ed with large trees, principally cedars and pines. The opposite side was also well fur^- uishedwith trees formerly, but all those which grew near the edge of the bridge have beea cut down by different people, for the sake of seeing" them tumble to the bottom. Before the trees were destroyed in this manner, you might have passed over the bridge without having had finy idea of being upon it ; for the breadth of it is no less than eighty feet, the road runs nearly in the middle, and is frequented daily bj waggons. At the distance of a few ^ ards from tlie bridge, a narrow path appears, wi^&ing along the sides of the fissure, amidst immense rocks and trees, down to the bottom of the bridge. Here the stupendous arch appears in all its glory, and seems to touch the very skies. To behold it without rapture, indeed, is impossible ; and the more critically it is examined, the more beauti^ ful and the more surprising does it appear. The height of the bridge to the top of the parapet 224 TRAVELS THUOUGII NORTH AMERICA! is two hundred and thirteen feet by admea- surement with a line; the thickness of the arch forty feet ; the span of the arch at top ninety feet; and the distance between the abutments at bottom fifty feet. The abut-- nients consist of a solid mass of limestone on either side, and, together with the arch^ seem as if they had been chiseled out by the hand of art. A small stream, called Cedar Creek, running at the bottom of the fissure, over beds of rocks, adds much to the beauty of the scene. The fissure takes a very sudden turn just above the bridge, according to the course of the stream, so that when you stand below, and look under the arch, the view is intercepted at the distance of about fifty yards from the bridge* Mr. Jefferson's statement, in his notes, that the fissure continues straight, terminating with a pleasing view of the^North Mountains, is quite erroneous. The siiics of the chasm are thickly covered in every part with trees, excepting where the huge rocks of limestone appear Besides this view from below, the bridgei s i^en to very great advantage from a pinnacle of rocks, about fifty feet below the top of the fissure ; for here not only the arch is seen in all its beauty, but the spectator is impressed iii the most forcible manner Y(ith ideas of iU MADDISON*S CAVE. 235 ^randeur^ from being enabled at the same time to look down into the profound gulph over which it passes. About fifty miles to the northward of the Rock Bridge, and also behind the Blue Moun- tains^ there is another very remarkable natural curiosity ; this is a large cavern, known in the neighboiirhood by the name of Maddison's Cave. It is in the heart of a mountain, about two hundred feet high, and which is so steep on one side, that a person standing on the top of it, might easily throw a pebble into the river, which flows round the base; the oppo- site side of it is, however, very easy of ascent^ and on this side the path leading to the cavern runs^ excepting for the last twenty yards, w hen it suddenly turn? along the steep part of the mountain, which is extremely rugged, and co- vered with immense rocks and trees from top to bottom The mouth of the cavern, on this gteep side, about two thirds of the way up is guarded by a huge pendent stone, which r3e( ms ready to drop every instant, and it is hardly pos- sible to stoop under it, without reflecting with a certain degree of awe^ that were it to drop, nothing could save you from perishing within the dreary w ails of that mansion to which it af- fords an entraore. Preparatory to entering, the guide, whom VOL. I. Q $26 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : I had procured from a neighbouring house, lighted the ends of three or four splinters of pitch pinCj a hirge bundle of which he had t)rought with him : thcj burn out verj fast, but while they las»t are most excellent torches. The fire he brought along with him, by mean$ of a bit of green hiccory wood, which when once lighted, will burn slowly without any blaze till the whole is consumed. The first apartment you enter is about twenty-five feet high, and fifteen broad, and extends a cnnsideraLle wav to the rii^rht and left, tlie floor ascending towards the former ; here it is very moiat, from the quantity of water continually triciding from the roof. Fahrenheit's thermometer, which stood at 67* in the air, fell to6i^ in this room, A few yards to the left, on the side opposite to you on entering, a pas age presents itself, which leads to a sort of anti-chamber as it were, frorn vyhence you proceed ijito the sound room,, so n iioed from the prodigious reverbe- ration pf the sound of a voice or musical in- striuaent at tlie inside. This room is about tv/enty feet square ; it is arched at top, and the sides of it, as well as of that apartment which you first enter, are beatifully orna- pnented with stalactites. Returning from hence )n.io the antich^mber, and afterwards taking maddison's cave. 227 two or three turns to the right and left, you enter a long passage about thirteen feet and perhaps about fifteen in height perpen- dicularly ; but if it \\ as measured from the floor to the highest pa t of the roof obliquely, the distance would be found much greater, as the walls on both sides slope very consider- ably, and finally meet at top. This passage descends very rapid and is, I should sup- pose, about sixty yards long. Towards the end it narrows considerably, and terminates in a pool of clear water, about three or foui feet deep. How far this pool extends it is impossi- ble to say. A canoe was once brought down i3y a party, for the purpose of examination, hut they said, that a^ier proceeding a It tie way upon the water the canoe would not floaty and they were forced to return. Their fears, most probably, led them to fancy it was so. I fired a pistol with a ball over the waler, but the report was echoed from the after part of the cavern, and not from that part be¥'>ad the water, so that T should not suppose the passa^;e extended much farther than couni be traced with the eye. The walls of this passage con- sist of a solid rock of hmeslone on e?€h side, which appears to have been sepa ated by «ome convulsion. The floor is of a deep sandy 4?arth, and it has repeaiedly been dug up for Q 3 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : the purpose of getting salt-petre, with which the earth is strongly impregnated. The earthy after being dug up, is mixed with water, and when the grosser particles fall to the bottom, the water is drawn off and evaporated ; from the residue the salt-petre is procured. Thefe are many other caverns in this neighbourhood^ and also farther to the westward, in Virginia; from all of them great quantities of salt-petre are thus obtained. The gunpowder made with it, in the back country, forms a principal ar- ticle of commerce, and is sent to Philadelphia ill exchange for European manufactures, About two thiids of the way down this long passage, just described, is a large aper- ture in the wall on the right, leading to an- other apartment, the bottom of which is about ten feet below the floor of the passage, and it is no easy matter to get down into it, as the sides are very sleep and extremely slippery. This is the largest and most beautiful room in the whole cavern ; it is soniev/hat of an oval form, about sixty feet in length, thirty in breadth, and in some parts nearly fifty feet high. The pelrifaclions formed by the water dropping from above are most beautiful, and hang down from the ceiling in the form of elegant drapery, the folds of \Nhich are similar to what those of large blankets or carpets maddison's cave* 229 would be if suspended by one corner in a lofty room. If struck with a sticky a deep hollow sound is produced^ which echoes throu^^hthe vaults of the cavern. In other parts of this room the petrifactions have commenced at the bottom^ and formed in pillars of different heights ; some of them reach nearly to the roof. If you go to a remote part of this apart- ment^ and leave a person with a lighted torch moving about amidst these } illars^ a thousand imaginary forms present themselves^ and you might almost fancy yourself in the infernal re- gions^ with spectres and monsters on every side. The floor of this room slopes down gra- dually from one end to the other^ and termi- nates in a pool of water, which appears to be on a level with that at the end of the long passage ; from their situation it is most pro- bable that they communicated together. The thermometer which I had with me stood, in the remotest part of this chamber, at 55^ From hence we returned to the mouth of the cavern, and on coming into the light it ap- peared as if we really had been in the infernal regions, for our faces, hands, and cloths were smutted all over, every part of the cave being covered with soot from the smoke of the pine torches which are so often carried in. The smoke from the pitch pine is particularly thick and heavy. Before this cave was much 10 330 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : visited, and the walls bia< kened by the smoke^ its be^Lty^ I w as told by some of tiie obi ia- habitants^ was great indeed^ for rhe petiifac-- tious on the roc;f and walls are all of the dead white kind. The country immediately behind the Blue Mountains, between Boitet:)urt Country and the Patowraac Iliver, is agieeably diversified with hill and dale, and abounds with exten- sive tracts of rich laud. The low groundg bordering upon the Shenandoah River, whicii runs contiguous to the Blue Ridge for up- wards of one hundred miles, are in particular distinguished for their fertilitv. These low grounds are those which, strictly speaking.^ constitute the Shenandoah Valiey, though \\\ general the country lyi^^g for several miles distant from the river, and in some parts verjT hilly, goes under that name. The natural herbage is not so fine here as in Bottetourt Country, but when clover is once sown it grows most luxuriantly; wheat also is pro- duced in as plentiful crops as in any part of the United States. Tobacco is not raised except- ing ibr private use, and but little Indian coru is sown, as it is liable to be injured by the nightly frosts, whiqh are common in the spring. The climate here is not so warm as in the lower parls oi the couutry, on the eastera side LANDSCAI^ES. §31 of the mountains ; but it is by no means so temperate as in Bottetourt Country^ whicli^ from being environed with ridges of moun- tainS;, is constantly refreshed with cooling breezes during summer, and in the winter is sheltered from the keen blasts from the north- west. The whole of this country^ to the West of the mountains, is increasing most rapidly in population. In the neigbourhood of Win- chester it is so thickly settled, and consequently so much cleared, that wood is now beginning to be thought valauble ; the farmers are obliged frequently to send ten or fifteen miles even for their fence rails. It is only, however, in this particular neighbourhood that the country is ^o much improved; in other places there are immense tracts of woodlands still remaining, and in 2:eneral the hills are all left uncleared. The hills being thus left covered with trees is a circumstance w hich adds much to the beauty of the country, and intermixed w ith extensive fields clothed with the richest verdure, and watered by the numerous branches of the She^ iiandoah River, a variety of pleasing landscapes are presented to the eye in almost every part of the route from Bottetourt to the Patowmac, many of v^hich are considerably heightened by the appearance of the Blue Mountains iu the back <^round. TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : With regard to the landsc apes however, and to American landscapes in general, it is to be observed, that their beauty is much impaired bv the unpictn.esque appearance of the angu- lar fences, and of the stiff wooden houses, which have at a little distance a heavy, dijil, and gloomy aspect. The stinups of the t^ees jIso^ on land newly cleared, are most disagreeable objects, wherewith the eye is continually as- sailed. When trees are felled in America^ they are never cut dow^n close to the ground, but the trunks are left standing two or three feet high ; f )r it is found that a woodman can cut down many more in a day, standing with a gentle inclination of the body, than if he were to stoop s ^ as to apply his axe to the bottom of the tree ; it does not make any difference either to the farmer, whether the stump is left two or three feet high, or whether is is cut down level with the ground, as in each case it w^ould equally be a liindrance to the ploughv These stumps usually decay in the course of seven or eh hi yeai s ; sometimes ; however sooner, sometimes later, according to the qua* lity of the timber. Tiiey never throw up suckers, as stumps of trees would do in Eng- land if left in t ^at manner. The ctiitivated lauds^ in this country art mostly par( elied out in mall portions ; ther^ are no pei sonsr here, as on Ihe other siue of th# TOWNS. J33 mountains possessing large farms; nor are there any einineatly distinguished by their education or knowledge from the rest of their fellow citizens. Poverty also is as much un- known in this country as great wealth. Each man owns the house he lives in and the land which he cultivates^, and every one appears to be in a happy state of mediocrity^ aiid ui am-- bitious of a more elevated situation than what he himself enjoys. The free inhabitants consist for the most part of Germans^ who here maintain the same character as in Pennsslvania and the other states where they have settled. About one sixth of the people, on on average^ are slaves, but in some of the counties the proportion is much less ; in Rockbridge the slaves do not amount to more than an eleventh, and in She- nandoah County not to more than a twentieth part of the whole. Between Fincastle and the Patowmac there are several towns^ as Lexington^ Staunton, Newmarket, Woodstock, Winchester^ Stras- burgh, and some others. These towns all stand on the great road, running north and soutk behind the Blue Mountains, and which is the high ix)ad from the northern states to tucky. As I i^assed along it, I met with great num- of peopk from Iventucky and the new, 234 TRAVELS THROUGH N6RTH AMERICA : state of Tenassee going towards Philadelphia and Balti nore, and with many others going in a contrary direction, to explore^'' as they call it, that is^ to search for lands conveoienlly situated for new settlements in the western country. The people all travel on horseback^ with pistols and swords^ and a large blanket folded up under their saddle, which last they use for sleeping in when obliged to pass the night in the woods. There is but little occa- sion for arms now that peace has been made with the Indians: but former! v it used to be a very serious undertaking to go by this route to Kentucky, and travellers were always obliged to go forty or fifty in a party, and well pre- prepared for defence. It would be still danger- ous for any person to venture singly ; but if five or six travel together, they are perfectly secure. There are houses now scattered along nearly the whole way from Fincastle to Lex- ington in Kentucky, so that it is not necessary to sleep more than two or three nights in the woods [(\ mmvs, there. Of ail the uncouth hu- man beings I met with in America, these peo- ple from the western country were the most so; their curiosity was boundless. Frequently h^ve I be^m stopped abiuptly by one of them in a solitary part of the road, and in such a manner, tbat ^ad it been in another country, I should have imagined it was a bighwaymaa LEXINGTON. 2SS that was going to demand my purse^ and without any further preface^, asked where I came from ? if I was acquainted with any news ? where bound to ? and finally, my name ? — Stop, Mister ! why I guess now y^u be coming from iiie new state/' No^ Sir/' — Why then I guess as how you be coming '^from Kentuc^/^ No, Sir/'— Oh ! why then, pray now where might you be coming from ?" Fiom the low country/' — Why you must have heard all the news then ; pray now. Mister, what might the price of bacon ^^be in those parts Upon my word, my friend, I can't inform you. ' — Aye, aye ; I see. Mister, you be'n't one of us ; pray now. Mister, what might your name be ?" — A stranger going the same way is sure of haying the company of these worthy people, so de- sirous of information, as far as the next tavern, wliere he is seldom suffered to remain for five minutes, till he is again assailed by a fresh set with the same questions. The first town you come to, going north- ward from Bottetourt County, is Lexington, a neat little place, that did contain about one hundred houses, a court-house, and goal ; but the greater part of it was destroyed by fire just before I got tliere. Great numbers of Irish ar^ * JCaotucfe/, TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : settled in this place. Thirty niiles farther on 4stands Staunton. This to \ n carries on a con-^ •iderable trade with the bick couintry, and contains nearly two hundred dwellings, mostly built of stone,, together with a cliurcb. This^ w^as the first place on the e itire road from Lynchburirh, one hundred and fifty miles dis- tant;, and which T was about ten days in travel- ling, Mhere I was not able to get a bit of fresh meat^ excepting indeed oo passing the Blue Mountains, where they brought me some ve- nison that had been just killed. I Vv cnt on fifty miles farther, from Stauiiton, before I got any again. Salted pork, boiled with turnip tops by way of greens, or fried bacon, or fried salted fish, with warm sallad, dressed with vinegar and the melted fdt which remains in the frying-pan after dressing the bacon, is the only food to be got at the most of the taverns in tiiis country; in spring it is the constant food of the people in the country ; and indeed, throughout the whole year, I am told, salted meat is what they most generally use. In every part of America a European is surprised at finding so many men with military titles, and still more so at seeing such num- bers of them employed in capacities apparently so inconsistent with their rank ; for it is no-^ thing uncommon to see a captain in the shap^ of waggoner^ a colonel the driver of a STAUNTON. 231 stage coach, or a general dealing out pennj ribbon behind his counter; but nowhere^ I believe^ is there such a superfluity of these military personages as in the little town of Staunton ; there is hardly a decent person in it, excepting lawyers and medical men, but what is a colonel, a major, or a captain. This is to be accounted for as follows : in America^ every freeman from the age of sixteen to fiity years, whose occupation does not absolutely forbid it^ must enrol himself in the militia. In Virginia alone^ the militia amounts to about sixty-two thousand men, and it is divided into four di- visions and seventeen brigades, to each of which there is a general and other officers. Were there no oflicers therefore, excepting those actually belonging to the militia, the number must be very great ; but independent of the militia, there are also volunteer corps in most of the towns, which have likewise their re- spective oiFicers. In Staunton there are two or three corps, one of cavalry, the other of artil- lery. These are formed chiefly of men who find a certain degree of amusement in exer- cising as soldiers, and who are also induced to associtate, by the vanity of appearing in re- gimentals. The militia is not assembled of- tener than ooce in tvv^o or three mouths, and as it icsts with every individual to provide himself with arms and accoutrements, and no 238 TRATELS THl^OUGH NORTH AMERICA: ptress being laid upon coming in uniform^ the sippcarance of the men is not very military. Numbers also of the officers of these volun- teer corps^ and of the militia^ are resigning every day ; and if a man has been a captain or a colonel but one day either in the one body or the other, it seems to be an established rule that he is to have nominal rank the rest of his life. Added to ali^ there are several officers of the old continental array neither in the fnilitia nor in the volunteer corps. Winchester stands one hundred miles to the northward of Staunton^ and is the largest town in the United States on the western side of the Blue Mountains. The houses are estimated at three hundred and fifty, and the inhabitants at two thousand. There are four churches in this town^ which, as well as the houses^ are plainly built. The streets are regular, but very narrow. There is nothing particularly deserving of attention in this place, nor indeed in anv of the other small towns which have been mentioned, none of them containing more than seventy houses each, [ 239 ] LETTER XVIII. JDescriplion of the Passage of Patowmac and Shenandoah Rivers through a Break in the ' Blue Moimtains.—Some Observations on Mr. Jeff erson's Account of the Scene, — Summary Account of Maryland.-^ Arrival at Phila- delphia, — Remarks on the Climate of the United Stafes,~State of the City of Phila- delphia during the Heat of Summer. — Diffi- CAdty of preserving Butter, Milk, Meat^ Fish, ^c. — General Use of Ice, — Of the Winds, — State of Weather in America de- pends greatly upon them, Philadelphia, June. HAVING traversed^ in various directions, the country to the west of the Blue Moun- tains in Virginia, I came to the Patowmac^, at the place where that river passes through the Blue Ridge^ which Mr. Jcilerson, in his Noies upon Virginia^ has represented as one of the most stupendous scenes in nature^ and worth '■'^ a voyage across the Atlantic." The ap- proach towards the place is wild and romantic. After crossing a number of small hiils^ which rise one above the other in succession^ vou at last perceive the break in the Blue Ridge ; at Jhe same time the road suddenly tui'ning^ winds !S40 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : down a long and steep hill, shaded with loftjr irees, whose branches umie over jour head* On one side of the road there are large heaps of rocks above jou^ which seem to threaten destruction to any one that passes under them ; on tlie other^ a deep precipice presents itself, at the bottom of which is heard the roaring of the waters, that are concealed from the eye by the thickness of the foliage. Towards ihe end of this hill, about sixty feet above the level of the v/ater^ stands a tavern and a few houses^ and from some fields m the rear of them the passage of the river through the mountain is^ I thinks seen to the best advan- tage. The Patowmac on the left comes winding along- through a fertile country towards the mountain ; on the right flovvsthe Shenandoah: uniting together at the foot of the mountain, ihey roll on through the gap ; then suddenly expanding to the breadth of about four hun- dred yards, they pa s on tov/ards the sea, and are faially lost to the view amidst surrounding hills. Tlie rugged appearance of the sides of the mountain towards the river, and the large rocks that lie scattered about at the bottom, many of which have evidently been split asunder by some great convulsion, are monuments/' as Mr. Jefferson observes, of the war that has taken place at this spot be- PASSAGE OF RIVERS. 241 tween rivers and mountains ; and at first sight they lead us into an opinion that mountains \yere created before rivers be~ gan to flow ; that the waters of the Pa- towmac and Shenandoah were dammed up for a time by the Bhie Ridge, but continu- ing to rise, that they at length broke through at this spot, and tore the mountain asunder from its summit to its base/' Certain it that if the Blue Ridge could be again made entire, an immense body of water would be formed on the western side of it, by the Shenandoah and Patowmac rivers ; and this body of water would be deepest, and conse- quently would act with more force in sap- ping a passage for itself throvigh the mountain at the identical spot where the gap now is^ than at any other, for this is the lowest spot in a very extended tract of country. A glance at the map will be sufficient to satisfy any person on this point; it will at once be seen, that air the rivers of the adjacent country bend their courses hither wards. ¥/hether the ridge, however, \m% left origiiially entire, or whether a break w as left in it for the pas- sage of the rivers, it is impossible at this day to ascertain; but it is very evident that the sides of the gap have been reduced to their present rugged state by some great inuiida- tion. Indeed, supposing that the Patowmac vox, I. K 242 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: and Shenandoah ever rose during a flood, a common circumstance in spring and autumn, only equally high with what James River did in 1795, that is, fifteen feet above their usual level, such a circumstance might have occa- sioned a very material alteration in the ap- pearance of the gap. The Blue Ridge, on each side of the Pa- towmac, is formed, from the foundation to the summit, of large rocks deposited in beds of rich soft earth. This earth is very readily washed away, and in that case the rocks con- sequently become loose ; indeed, they are fre- quently loosened even by heavy shoMers of rain. A proof of this came within my own observation, which I shall never forget. It had been raining excessively hard the whole morning of that day on which I arrived at this place ; the evening however was very fine, and being anxious to behold the scene in every point of view, I crossed the river, and ascend- ed the mountain at a steep part on the op- posite side, where there was no path, and many large projecting rocks. I had walked up about fifty yards, when a large stone that I set my foot upon, and which appeared to me perfectly firm, all at once gave way; it had been loosened by the rain, and brought down such a heap of others with it in its fall, with such a tremendous noise at the same time. ROCKS LOOSENED, 243 that I thought the whole mountain was com- ing upon mC;, and expected every moment to be dashed to pieces. I slid down about twenty feet and then luckily caught hold of the branch of a tree, by which I clung; but the stones still continued to roll down heap after heap ; several times, likewise, after all had been still for a minute or two, they again began to fall with increased violence. In this state of suspense I was kept for a considerable time^ not knowing but that some stone larger than the rest might give way, and carry dowa with it even the tree by which I held. Un- acquainted also with the paths of the moun- tain, there seemed to me to be no other wa/ of getting down, excepting over the fallen «tones, a way which I contemplated with horror. Night however was coming on verj fast ; it was absolutely necessary to quit the si- tuation I was in, and fortunately I got to the bottom without receiving any further injury than two or three slight contusions on my hips and elbows. The people congratulated me when I came back on my escape, and inform- ed me, that the stones very commonly ga-ve way in this manner after heavy falls of rain; but on the dissolution of a large body of snow^ immense rocks, they said, would sometime* roll down with a crash that might be heard for mihi. Th« consequences then of a large 244 TRAVELS THROCGH NORTH AiVIERICA : rock towards the bottom of the mountain be- ing undermined by a flood, and giving way, may be very readily imagined : the rock above! it, robbed of its support, would also fall ; this would bring dowa with it numbers of others with which it was connected, and thus a dis- ruption would be produced from the base to the very summit of the mountain. The passage of the rivers through the ridge at this place is certainly a curious scene, and deserving of attention; but I am far from thinking with Mr. JeSerson, that it is one '^ of the most stupendous scenes in nature, and worth a* voyage across the Atlantic;'' nor has it been my lot to meet with any person that had been a spectator of the scene, after i^eading his description of it, but what also' differed with him very materially in opinion. To find numberless scenes more stupendous, it would be needless to go farther than Wales. A river, it is true, is not to be met with in that country, equal in size to the Patowmac; but many are to be seen there^ rushing over their stony beds with much more turbulence and impetuosity than either the Patowmac or Shenandoah : the rocks, the precipices, and the mountains of the Blue Ridge at this place are diminutive and uninteresting also, com- pared with those which abound in that coun- try. Indeed, from every part of Mr. JelFer- IRON. S45 st)n's description, it appears as if he had be- held the scene, not in its present state, but at the very moment when the disruption hap- pened, and when every thing was in a state of tumult and confusion. After crossing the Patowmac, I passed on to Frederic in Maryland^ which has already been mentioned, aad from thence to Baltimore. The country between Frederic and Baltimore is by no means so rich as that west of the Blue Ridge, but it is tolerably w^ell cultivated. Iron and copper are found here in manv places. No works of any consequence have as yet been established for the manufacture of copper, but there are several extensive iron works. The iron is of a remarkable tough quality ; indeed, tliroughout the states of Maryland, Virginia, and Pennsylvania, it is generally so ; and the utensils made of it^ as pots, kettles, &c. though cast much thinner than usual in England, will admit of being pitched into the carts, and thrown about, without any danger of being broken. The forges and furnaces^are all worked by negroes, who seem to be particularly suited to such au occupation, not only on account of their sable complexions, but because they can sustain a much greater degree of heat than y^hite per- sons, w ithout any inconvenience, (n the hotr test days in summer they are never without j6res in their huts. 246 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA I The farms and plantations in Maryland consist^ in general^ of from one hundred to one thousand acres. In the upper parts of the state^ towards the mountains^ the land is di- vided into small portions. Grain is what is principally cultivated^ and there are few slaves. In the lower parts of the state^ and in this part of the country between Frederic and Baltimore^ the plantations are extensive ; large quantities of tobacco are raised^ and the labour is performed almost entirely by negroes. The persons residing upon these large plantations live very similar to the planters in Virginia : all of them have their stewards and overseers, and they give themselves but little trouble about the management of the lands. As in Virginia:, the clothing for the slaves^ and most of the implements for husbandry^ are manu- factured on each estate. The quarters of the slaves are situated in the neighbourhood of the principal dwelling-bouse^ which gives the residence of every planter the appearance of a little village^ just the same as in Virginia. The houses are for the most part built of %vood> and painted with Spanish brown; and in front there is generally a long porch;, paint- ed white. From Baltimore I returned to Philadelphia, where I arrived on the fourteenth day of June, after having been absent about three months. WEATHER. 247 During the whole of that period the weather had been extremely variable, scarcely ever re- maining alike four days together. As early as the fourteenth of March^ in Pennsylvania, Fahrenheit's thermometer stood at 65° at noou day, though not mere than a week before, it had been so low as 14^ At the latter end of the month, in Maryland, I scarcely ever observed it higher than 50^ at noon : the even- ings were always cold, and the weather was squally and wet. In the northern neck of Virginia, for two or three days together, during the second week in April, it rose from 80° to 84"^, in the middle of the day ; but on the wind suddenly shifting, it fell again, and remained below 70"^ for some days. As I passed along through the lower parts of Virginia, I fre- quently afterwards observed it as high as 80^ during the month of April ; but on no day in the month of May previous to the fourteenth, did it again rise to the same height ; indeed, so far from it, many of the days were too cold to be without fires ; and on the night of the ninth instant, when I was in the neighbour- hood of the South-west Mountains, so sharp a frost took place, that it destroyed all the cher- ries, and also most of the early wheat, and of the young shoots of Indian corn ; in some particular places, for miles together, the young leaves of the forest trees even were all wither- 248 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : ed, and the country had exactly the appear-^ aoce of November. On the tenth instant, the day after the frost, the thermometer was as low as 46° in the middle of the day ; yet four days afterwards it stood at SV. During the remainder of the month, and during June, until I reached Philadelphia, it fluctuated be- tween 60° and 80° ; the w eather was on the whole fine, but frequently for a day or two together the air felt extremely raw and dis- agreeable. The changes in the state of the, atmosphere were also sometimes very sudden. On the sixth day of June, when on my way to Frederic Town, after passing the Patowniac River, the most remarkable change of this nature took place which I ever witnessed. The morning had been oppressively hot ; the thermometer at 81°, and the wind S. S. W. About one o'clock in the afternoon, a black cloud appeared in the horizon, and a tremen- dous gust came on, accompanied by thunder and lightning ; several large trees were torn up by the roots by the wind ; hail stones, about three times the size of an ordinary pea, fell for a few minutes, and afterwards a torrent of rain came pouring down, nearly as if a w ater- spout had broken overhead. Just before the gust came on, I had suspended my thermometer from a window with a northern aspect, when it stood at 81°; but on looking at it ^t the CLIMATE. ^^nd of twenty-tliree minutes^ by which time the gust was completely ovcr^ I found it down to 59^^ a change of A north-west wind now set in, the evening was most delightful^ and the thermometer again rose to 65^ In Pennsylvania the thermometer has been known to vary fifty degrees in the space of twenty-six hours. The climate of the middle and southern states is extremely variable ; the seasons of two. succeeding years are seldom alike ; and it scarcely ever happens that a month passes over without very great vicissitudes in the weather taking place. Doctor Rittenhouse remarked, that whilst he resided in Pennsyl- vania, he discovered nightly frosts in every month of the year excepting July, and even in that month, during v/hich the heat is always greater than at any other time of the year, a cold day or two sometimes intervene, when a fire is found very agreeable. The climate of the state of New York is very similar to that of Pennsylvania, excepting that in the northern parts of that state, border- ing upon Canada, the winters are always severe and long. The climate of New Jersey, Dela- ware, and the upper parts of Maryland, is also jnuch the same with that of Pennsylvania ; in the lower parts of Bfaryland the climate does pot differ materially from that of Virginia to 250 TRATELS THROUGH NORTH AMEHICA ! the eastward of the Bhie Ridge^ where it verj rarely happens that the thermometer is as low as 6° above cipher. In Pennsylvania^, the range of the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer has been observed to be from 24^ below cipher to 105*^ above it ; but it is an unusual occurrence for the mercurj to stand at either of these extreme points ; in its approach towards them it commonly draws much nearer to the extreme of heat than to that of cold. During the winter of 1795^ and the three preceding years^, it did not sink lower than 10 above cipher ; a summer however seldom passes over that it does not rise to 96^ It was mentioned as a singular circumstance, that in 1789 the thermometer never rose hi:enerallv turns sour in the course of one or two hours after it comes from the cow. Fish is never brought to market without beMg covered with lumps of ice, and notAvitii- standing that care, it fiequentiy happens that it is not fit to be eat. Butter is brought to market likev/ise in ice^ which they generally have in great plenty at every farm house; indeed it is almost considered as a necessarv of life, in these low parts of the country. Poultry intended for dinner is never killed till about four hours before the time it is wanted^ and then it is kept immersed in water without which precaution it would be tainted. Not- withstanding all tliis^ I have been told, that were I to stay in Philadelphia till the Utter end of July or beginning of August^ I should find the heat much more intolerable than it has been hitherto. Most of tlie other large sea port towns^ south of Philadelphia, are equally hot and disagreeable in summer ; and 254 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA 2 Baltimore^ Norfolk^ and some others^ even more so. The winds in every part of the country make a prodigious difference in the tempe- rature of the air. When the north-west wind blowS;, the heat is always found more tolerable than with any other^, although the thermome- ter should be at the same height. This wind is uncommonly dry, and brings with it fresh animation and vigour to every living thing. Although this wind is so very piercing in winter^ yet I think the people never complain so much of cold as when the north-east wind blows ; for my own part I never found the air so agreeable;, let the season of the year be what it would^ as with the north-west wind. The north-east wind is also cold, but it renders the air raw and damp. That from the south- east is damp but warm. Rain or snow usually falls when the wind comes from any point towards the east. The south-west wind, like the north-west, is dry; but it is attended generally with warm weather. When in a southerly point, gusts, as they are called, that is, storms attended with thunder, lightning, hail, and rain, are common. It is a matter of no difficulty to account for these various effects of the Avind in Ame- rica. The north-west wind, from coming; 8 WINDS. 25;> over such an immense tract of land^ must ne- cessarily be dry; and coming from regions eternally covered with mounds of snow and ice^ it must also be cold. The north-east wind^ from traversing the frozen seas, must be cold likewise ; but from passing over such a large portion of the watery main afterwards, it brings damps and moistures with it. All those from the east are damp, and loaded with va- pours, from the same cause. Southerly winds, from crossing the warm regions between the tropics, are attended with heat ; and the south- west wind, from passing, like the north-west, over a great extent of land, is dry at the same time ; none however is so dry as that from the north-west. It is said, but with what truth I cannot take upon me to say, that west of the Alleghany and Appalachian mountains, which are all in the same range, the south- west winds are cold and attended with rain. Those great extremes of heat and cold, ob- servable on tlie eastern side of the mountains^ are unknown to the westward of thera. 256 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: LETTER XIX. Travelling in America without a Companion not fleasant. — Meet two English Gentlemen. — Set out together for Canada. — Description of the Country hctxoeen Philadelphia and New York. — Bristol. — Trenton. — Princeton.—^ College there. — Some Account of it. — Brims- wick.' — Posaik Water- fall.— Copper Mine. — 'Singular Discovery th ereof — New- York. — 'Description of the City, — Character'' and Manners of the Inhabitants. — -Leave it abruptly on Account of the Fevers. — Passage lip North River from New York to Albany. — Great Beauty of the North River.— West Point.- — Highlands. — Gusts of Wind com- mon in passing them. ^Albany. — Dcscrip" Hon of the City and Inhabitants.— Cclebr a-' Hon of the 4th of July. — Anniversary of ' American Indepelidance. MY DEAR SIR, . Albany, July. I WAS on the point of leaving Piiiladel- phia for New York^ intending from tlience to proceed to Canada, when chance brought me into the company of two young gentlemen from England, each of whom was separately preparing to set off on a similar excursion. A ra4;ioiial and agreeable companion, to whom you might communicate the result of your PLEASURES OF A COMPANION. 257 observations, and with >vliom you might in- terchange sentiments on all occasions, could not but be deemed a pleasing acquisition, I should imagine, by a person on a journey through a foreign land„ Were any one to be found, however, of a different opinion, I should venture to affirm, that ere he travelled far through the United States of America, where there are so few inhabitants in pro^ portion to the extent of the country ; where, in going from one town to another, it is fre- quently necessary to pass for many miles to- gether through dreary woods; and where, even in the towns, a few of thos^ sea-ports indeed excepted which are open to the At- lantic, there is such sameness in the custom manners, and conversation of the inhabitants ^ and so little amongst them that interests either the head or the heart ; he would not only be induced to think that a companion must add to the pleasure of a journey, but were abso- lutely necessary to prevenfits appearing insipid, and at times highly irksome to him. IPor my own part, I had fully determined in my own mind, upon returning from my tour beyond the Blue Mountains, never again to set out oh a journey alone through any part of America, if I could possibly procure an agree ^ able companion. The gentlemen I met with h a, as well as myself, travelled widely through V0L> I. 6 258 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMEEICxit different parts of tlieUnited States, and had form- ed nearly the same resolution ; we accordingly agreed to go forward to Canada togcther^^ and having engaged a carriage for omselves as far as New York, we quitted the close and disa- greeable city of Philadelphia on the twentieth of June. The road, for the first twenty-five miles, riins very near the River Delaware, which appears to great advantage through openings ill the woods that are scattered along its shores. From the town of Bristol in particular^, which stands on an elevated part of the banks^ twenty miles above Philadelphia,, it is seen in a most pleasing point of view. The river^ here about one mile yvide, winds majesti- eally round the point whereon the town m jbuilt, and for many miles, both upwards and downwards, it may be traced through a rich country, flowing gently along ; in general it B covered with innumerable little sloops and schooners. Opposite to Bristol stands the city of Burlington, one of the largest in New Jer- sey,- built partly upon an island and partly on the main shore. It makes a good appearance^ and adds considerably to the beauty of the prospect from Bristol. Ten miles farther on^, oppsite to Trenton, which stands at the head of the sloop navi-* gation, you cross the river. The falls or 2. PRINCETON, 259 pidSj that prevent boats from ascending any higher> appear in full view as you pass> but their prospect is in no way pleasing ; beyond them, the navigation may be pursued for up- wards of one hundred miles in small boats. Trenton is the captial of New Jersey> and contains about two hundred houses> together with four churches. The streets are com- modious, and the houses neatly biiilt. Thfe state-house, in which congress met for some time during the war, is a heavy clumsy edifice. Tv/elve miles from Trenton, stands Prince- ton, a neat town, containing about eighty dwell- ings in one long street. Here is a large col- lege, held in much repute by the neighbouring states. The number of students amounts to upwards of seventy ; from their appearance, however, and the course of studies they seem to be engaged in, like all the other American colleges I ever saw, it better deserves the title of a grammar school than a college. The library, which we were shewn, is most wretch- ed ; consisting, for the most part, of old theolo- gical books, not even arranged with any regu- larity. An orrery, contrived by Mr. Rit- tenhouse, whose talents are so much boasted of by his countrymen, stands at one end of the apartment, but it is quite out of repair^ well as a few detached parts of a philosophical s3 260 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : apparatus^ enclosed in the same glass case. At the opposite end of the room, are two small cupboards, which are shewn as the museum. These contain a couple of small stuffed ali- gators, and a few singular fishes^ in a miserable state of preservation^ the skins of them being tattered in innumerable places^ from their being repeatedly tossed about. The building is very plain, and of stone ; it is one hundred and eighty feet in front, and four stories high. The next stage from Princeton is Bruns- wick, containing about two hundred houses ; there is nothing very deserving of attention iti it, excepting it be the very neat and com- modious woodeii bridge that has been thrown across the Raritan River, which is about twa hundred paces over. The part over the chan- ml h contrived to draw up, and on each side is a footv/ay guarded by rails, and ornamented with lamps. Elizabeth Town and Newark^ which you afterwards pass through in succes- sion, ate both of them chearful lively looking places : neither of them is paved. Newark is built in a straggling manner, and has very much the appearance of a large English vil- lage : there is agreeable society in this town. These two towns nxe only eight miles apart, and each of them has one or two excellent churchcsj whose tall spires appear very beau- NEW JERSEY. g6jr tiful as you approach at a distance^ peeping up above the woods by which they are en- circled. The state of New Jersey, measured from north tp south, is about one hundred and sixty miles in length ; it varies in breadth from forty to eighty miles. The northern part of it is crossed by the blue ridge of mountains, running , through Pennsylvania; and shooting off in different directions from this ridge, there are several other small mountains in the neigh- bourhood. The southern part of the state, on the contrary, which lies towards the sea, is extremely flat and sandy ; it is covered for miles together with pine trees alone, usually called pine barrens, and is very little cultivated. The middle part, which is crossed in going from Philadelphia to New York, abounds with extensive tracts of good land ; the soil varies however^ considerably, in some places being sandy, in others stony, and in others consisting of a rich brown mould. This part of the state, as far as Newark, is on the whole well cultivated, and scattered about in different places are some excellent farm houses ; a good deal of uncleared land, however, still remains. Beyond Newark the country is extremely flat and marshy. Between the town and the Po- gaick River there is one marsh, which alone extends upwards of twenty miles, and is about TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA t two miles wide where you pass over it. The road is here formed with large logs of wood laid close together, and on each side are ditches to keep it dry. This was the first place wherq we met with musquitQeS:, and they annoyed us not a little in passing. Towards the latter end of the summer^ Philadelphia is much in- fested with them; but they had not madei their appearanpe when we left that city. The Posaick River runs close upon the borders of this marshy q.nd there is an excellent wooden bridgf^ across it^ somewhat similar to that at New Brunswick over the Raritan River. About fifteen miles above it there is a very re- markable fall in the river. The river, at thq fall, is about forty yards wide, and flows with a gentle current till it comes within a few perches of the edge of the fall, when it sudden} precipitates itself, in one entire sheet, over a ledge of rocks of nearly eighty feet in perpen- dicular height; below, it runs on through a chasm, formed of immense rocks on each side ; they are higher than the fall, and seem to havq been once united together. In this neighbourhood there is a very rich copper mine; repeated attempts have been made to work it; but whether the price of labour be too great for such an undertaking, or the proprietors have not proceeded with judgment^ certain it is, that they have always COPPER MINES, 263 miscarried and sustained very considerable lasses thereby. This mine was first discovered in 1751, by a person who^, passing along about three o'clock in the mornings observed a blue flame^ about the size of a maU;, issuing from the earth;, which afterwards soon died away : he marked the place with a stake ; and when the hill was opened^ several large lumps of virgin copper were found. The vein of copper in the mines is said to be much richer now than when first opened. From the Posaick to the North River the country is hilly, barren, and uninteresting, till you come very near the latter, when a noble view opens all at once of the city of New York on the opposite shore, of the harbour, and shipping. The river, which is very grand, can be traced for several miles above the city ; the banks are very steep on the Jersey side, and beautifully wooded, the trees almost dipping into the water : numbers of vessels plying about in every part, render the scene extremely sprightly and interesting. New Y ork is built on an island of its own name, formed by the North and the East Rivers, and a creek or inlet connecting both of these together. The island is fourteen miles long, and, on an average, about one mile in breadth ; at its southern extremity stands the city, which exteiids frpear to great disadvantage from the water. M6 TRAVELS THROU0K NORTH AMERICA: when you approach near to them, from the shores being crowded in this manner with ir- regular masses of wooden houses, standing as it were in the water. The federal city, where they have already begun to erect the same kind of wooden wharfs and store-houses without any regularity, will be just the same. It is astonishing, that in laying out that city, a grand quay was not thought of in the plan ; it would certainly have afforded equal, if not greater accommodation for the shipping, and it would have added wonderfully to the embellishment of the city. Many of the private houses in New York are very good, particularly those in Broadway. Of the public buildings, there are none which are very striking. The churches and houses for public worship, amount to no less than twenty-two ; four of them are for Presbyte- rians, three for Episcopalians of the church of England, three for Dutch Reformists, two for German Lutherans and Calvinists, two for Quakers, two for Baptists, two for Methodists, one for French Protestants, one for Moravi- i^ns, one for Roman Catholics, and one for Jews. According to the census in 1790, the num- ber of inhabitants in New York was found to be thirty thousand one hundred and forty-? eight free persons, and two thousand one hun-^ INHABITANTSo 267 dred and eighty slaves ; but at present the jiumber is supposed to amount at least to forty thousand. The inhabitants have long been distinguished above those of all the other towns in the United StateS;, except it be the people of Charleston^ for their politeness, gaiety, and hospitality and, indeed, in these points they are more strikingly superior to the inhabitants pf the other large towns. Their public amuse- pients consist in dancing and card assem- blies^ and theatrical exhibitions : for the for- mer, a spacious suite of rooms has lately been erected. The theatre is of wood^ and a most piiserable edifice it is ; but a new one is novy building on a grand scale, w hich, it is thought, *will be as much too large for the town as the ^ pther is too small. Being afixious to proceed on our journey jbefore the sea^-on w^as too far advanced, and ^Iso particularly desirous of quitting New York on account of the fevers, which, it w as yumoured, were increasing very fast, we took pur passage for Albany, in one of the sloops trading constantly on the North River, be- tween New York and that place, and em» barked ou the second day of July, about two o'clock in the afternoon. Scarcely a breath of air was stirring at the time ; but the tide carried us up at the rate of about two miles ^nd a half an houro The sky remained all day !!68 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : as serene as possible^, and as the water was perfectly smooth^ it reflected in a most beauti- ful manner the images of the various objects on the shorc^ and of the numerous vessels dispersed along the river at different dis- tances^ and which seemed to glide along, as it w^ere, by the power of magic, for the sails all hung down loose and motionless. The sun, setting in all his glory, added fresh beau ties to this calm and peaceable scene, and per- mitted us for the last time to behold the distant spires of New York, illumined by his parting rays. To describe all the grand and beautiful prospects presented to the view on passing along this noble river, would be an endless task ; all the various effects that can be supposed to arise from a happy combination of wood and water, of hill and dale, are here seen in the greatest perfection. In some places the river expands to the breadth of five or six miles, in others it narrows to that of a few hundred yards, and in various parts it is inter- spersed with islands ; in some places again its course can be traced as far p,s the eye can reach, whilst in others it is suddenly lost to the view, as it winds between its lofty banks; here mountains covered with rocks and trees rise almost perpendicularly out of the water ;^ there a fine champaign country presents itself^ cultivated to the very margin of the river^ ' PASSAGE TO ALBANY, 269 whilst neat farm houses and distant towns embellish the charming landscapes. After sunset, a brisk wind sprang up wliicli carried us on at the rate of six or seven miles an hour for a considerable part of the night ; but for some hours we had to lie at anchor at a place where the navigation of the river was too difficult to proceed in the dark. Our sloop was no more than seventy tons burthen by register; but tlie accommodations she afforded w ere most excellent^ and far superior to what might be expected on board so small a vessel ; the cabin was equally large with that in a com-- mon merchant vessel of three hundred tonS;, built for crossing the ocean. This was owing to the great breadth of her beam^ which was no less than twenty~tw o feet and a half^ al» though her length was only fifty-five feet. All the sloops engaged in this trade are built nearly on the same construction ; shorty broad^ and very shallow^ few of them draw more than five or six feet water^ so that they are only calculated for sailing upon smooth water. Early the next morning we found ourselves opposite to West Pointy a place rendered re- markable in history by desertion of General Arnold, during the American war, and the consequent death of the unfortunate Major Andre, The fort stands about one hundred and fifty feet above the level of the water^ on 270 TRAVELS THtlOUCH NORTH AMERICA t the side 6f a barren hill ; no himian creaturci appearing in it except the solitary sentinel^ who marched backwards sind forwards on the ramparts overgrown with long grass, it had d most melancholy aspect, that perhaps? was heightened by the gloominess of the morn- ing, and the recollection of all the circum- stances attending the unhappy fate of poor Andre. Near West Point there is also another posf^ called Fort Putnam, which, since the peace, • has been suffered to get very much out of repair; however, steps are now taking to have it put in good order. Supposing that a rup- ture should ever unfortunately again take place between Great Britain and the United States of America, these posts would be of the greatest consequence, as they form a link in that chain of posts which extend the whole way along the navigable waters that connect the British settlements with New York* In this neighbourhood the highlands, as they are called, commence, and extend along the river on each side for several miles. The breadth of the river is here considerably con- tracted^ and such sudden gusts of wind, com- ing from between the mountains, sometimes blow through the narrow passes, that vessels frequently have their topmasts carried away. The captain of the sloop we were in, said^ ALBANY, 271 that liis mainsail was once blown into tatters in an instant, and a part of it carried on sl^ore. When the skj is lowering, thej usnallj take in sail going along this part of the river. About four o'clock in the morning of the fourth of July we reached Albany, the place of our destination, one hundred and sixty miles distant from New York. Albany is a city, and contains about eleven hundred houses ; the number however is in- creasing fast, particularly since the removal of the state government from New York. In the old part of the town the streets are very narrow,, and the houses are frightful ; they are all built in the old Dutch taste, with the gable end towards the street, and ornamented on the top with large iron weather-cocks ; but ia that part which has been lately erected, tlie streets are commodious^ and many of the houses are handisome. Great pains have been taken to have the streets well paved aad lighted. Here are four places for public worship^ and an hospital. Albany is in sum- mer time a very disagreeable place ; it stands in a low situation, just on the margin of the river^ which runs very slowly here, and to- wards the evening often exhales clouds of va- pours ; immediately behind the town, likewise, is a large sandbank, that prevents a free cir- culation of air^ while at the same time it 272 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : powerfully reflects the rays of the sun, whicli shines in full force upon it the whole day. Notwithstanding all this^ however^ the cli- mate is deemed very salubrious. The inhabitants of this place^ a few years ago^ were almost entirely of Dutch extraction ; but now strangers are flocking to it from all quarters^ as there are few places in America more advantageously situated for commerce* The ilo.urishing state of its trade has already been mentioned ; it bids fair to rival that of New York in process of time. The fourth of July^ the day of our arrival at Alb any:, was the anniversary of the declara- tion of American independance^ and on our arrival we were told that great preparations were making for its celebration^. A drum and trumpet;, towards the middle of the day. gave notice of the commencement of the re* joicings^ and on walking to a hill about a * Our landlord, as soon as he found out who we were, im* mediately came to us, to request tliat we would excuse the confused state in which his house was, as this was the an* niversary day of American Independance,** or, as some> indeed, more properly called it, of American Repentance.** We were all of us not a little surprised at this address, and from such a person 5 instances, however, are not wanting of people openly declaring, that they have never enjoyed so inuch quiet and happiness in their own homes since the re- volution, as they did when the states were the colonies of Great Britain. Amongst the planters in Virginia, I hearcJ language of this sort more than once. ALBANV. 273 quarter of a mile from the town, we saw sixty men drawn up, partly militia^ partly volun- teers, partly infantry, partly cavalry ; the latter were clothed in scarlet, and mounted on horses of various descriptions. About three hundred spectators attended. A few rounds were fired from a three-pounder, and some vollejs of small arms. The firing was finished before one hour was expired, and then the troops re- turned to town, a party of militia officers in uniform marching in the rear, under the shade of umbrellas, as the day was excessively hot. Having reached town, the whole body imme- diately dispersed. The volunteers and militia officers afterwards dined together ; and so end- ed the rejoicings of the day ; no public ball, no g*eneral entertainment was there of any de- scription. A day still fresh in the memory of every American, and which appears so glorious in the annals of their country, would, it might be expected, have called forth more brilliant and more general rejoicings; but the down- right phlegmatic people in this neighbourhood^ intent upon making money, and enjoying the solid advantages of the revolution, are but little disposed to waste their time in what they con^ ^ider idle demonstrations of joy. S74 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: LETTER XX. DepaTHurc from Albamj, — Difficultj/ of hiring a Carriage, — Arrival at ^olioz. — Description of the curious Fall there of the Moharvok River, — Still-water. — *SoratOfi;a. — Few of the Works raraining there. — Singular Mine- ral Springs near Saratoga — Fort Edward. — Miss M'Crca c^ue!:./ raurdered there bij Indruis. — rort .. i,. .-, -' \ tched Roadthitlier, ' — Some Observaliofisontlie Ainei'ican Woods. — Horses jaded. --Difficylii/^ o f getting for- ward. — ^'-rive at Skenesborough. — Dread- fully infested by Musquitoes. — Fartieular Description of Utat Insect Great Danger ensues sometimes f om their Bite. — Best. Remedy. , MY DEAR SIR, Skenesborough, July. E rciiiaiued ill Albany for a ie-v days^ and theu set olf for Skenesborough^ upon Lake Cham plain, in a carriage hired for the purpose. The hiring of this vehicle was a matter attend- ed ^^ ith some trouble^, and detained us longer in the town than we wished to staj. There were only two carriages to be had in the whole place^^ and the owners having an understanding with each other^ ana thinking that we should 273 hem teen ised. ohe ' in 1.1 a a me, ave m COHOZ FALL. 275 be forced to give whatever price tliey asked, positively refused to let us have either of them for less than seventy dollars, equal to fifteen guineas. We on our part as positively refused, to comply with a demand which we knew^ to be exorbitant, and resolved to v/ait patiently in Albany for some other conveyance, rather than submit to such an imposition. The fellows held out for two days, but at the end of that time, one of them came to tell us we might have his carriage for half the price, and accordingly we took it. Early the next morning we set off, and in about two hours arrived at the small viliage of Oohoz, close to which is the remarkable Fall in the Mohawk River. This river takes its rise to the north-east of Lake Oneida, and after a course of one hundred a,nd forty miles, disembogues in the Hudson or North River, about ten miles above Albany. The Cohos; Fall is about three miles distant from its mouth. The breadth of the river is three hundred yards ; a ledge of rocks extends quite across, and from the top of them the water falls about fifty feet perpendicular; the line of the Fall from one side of the river to the other is nearly straight. The appearance of this Fall varies yery much, according to tiie quantity of water when the river is full, the water de- scenfis in an unbroken sheet from one bank T 2 276 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: to the other, whilst at other times the greater part of the rocks are left uncovered. The rocks are of a remarkable dark colour, and so also is the earth in the bankS;, which rise k) a great height on either side. There is a very pleasing view of this cataract as you pass over the bridge across the river, about three quarters of a mile lower down. From hence we proceeded along the banks of the Hudson River, through the towu of Stillwater, which receives its name from the uncommon stillness of the river opposite to it, and late in the evening reached Saratoga, thirty-five miles from Albany. This place contains about forty houses, and a Dutch re- formed church, but they are so scattered about that it has uot the smallest appearance of a town. In this neigiibourhood, upon the borders of a marsh, are several very remarkable mineral springs; one of iheni, in the crater of a rock, of a pyramidical form, about five feet in height, is particularly curious. This rock seexus to have been formed by the petrifaction of tha water : all the other springs are likewise sur- rounded vnth petrifactions of the same kind. The water in the principal spring, except at the beginning of the summer, when it regu- larly overflows, remains about eight inches, beiow the rim of the crater, and bubbles up. SARATOGA. 277 '.»g If boiling. The crater is nine inches in diameter. The various properties of the water have not been yet ascertained with any great accuracy ; but it is said to be impregnated with a fossile acid and some saline substance s- there is also a great portion of fixed air in it- An opportunity is here afforded for making some curious experiments. If animals be put down into the crater^ they will be immediately suffocated; but if not kept there too long% they recover again upon being brought into the open air. If a lighted candle be put down^ the flame wili be extinguished in an instant^ and not even the smallest spark left in the wick. If the water immediately taken from the spring be put into a bottle^ closely corked> and then shaken^ either the cork will be forced out with an explosion, or the bottle will be broken ; but if left in an open vessel, it be- comes vapid in less than half an hour. The water is very pungent to the tasie^ and acts as a cathartic on same people^ as an emetic on others. Of the works thrown up at Saratoga by the British and Americ^an armies during the war^ there are now scarcely any remains. Tl^e country round about is well cultivated, and the trenches have been mostly levelled by the plough. We here crossed the Hudson liivcr^ JTS TRATELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA t and proceeded along its eastern shore as far as Fort Edward^ where it is lost to the view^ for the road still runs on tmvards the norths whilst the river takes a sudden bend to the west. Fort Edward was dismaotled prior to the late American war ; but the opposite armies, during that unhappy contest^ were both in the neighbourhood. Many of the people, whom we found living here, had served as soldiers in the armv, and told us a number of interesting particulars relative to several events which happened in this quarter. The landlord of the tavern where we stopped, for one, re- lated all the circumstances attending Miss M^Crea's death, and pointed out on a hill, not far from^ the house, the very spot where she was murdered by the Indians, and the place of her interment. This beautiful young lady bad been engaged to an officer in General Burgoyne's army, vvho, anxious for her safety, as there w^ere several marauding parties going about the neighbourhood where she lived, sent a party of trusty Indians to escort her to the camp. These Indians had partly executed their commission, and were approaching with their charge in sight of the British camp, when they were met by another set of Indians belonging to a different tribe, that was also attending the British army at this time. In a few minutes it became a matter of dispute FORT EBWAUD. 279 between them^ which shoaid have the h !iour of conducting her to the camp ; tr ail words thev came to blows, and blood w is on the point of being ckawn, when one of their chiefs^ to setttle the matter without farther mischief, went up to Miss rV^'Crea, and k Hed her ou the spot with a blow of his tomahawk. The object of contention being thus removed, the Inaians returned quietly to the camp. The enormity of the crime, however, was too great not to attract public notice, and it turned the minds of every person against the Indians^ who had not before witnessed their ferocity on occasions equally shocking to humanity. The impolicy of employing such barbarians was now strongly reprobated, aud in a short time afterwards most of them were dismissed from our arm v. Fort Edward stands near the river. The town of the same name, is at the distance of one or two huuuicd \ards from it, and con- tains about twc iity houses. Thus far we had. got on tolerably weii; biit from hence to Fort Anne, which was also dismantled prior to the late war, the road is most wretched, particularly over a long caueeway be tween the two forts, formed originally for the transport- ing of cannon, the soil here being extremely xnoist and heavy. The causeway coi^sists of large trees laid side by side trans \ersel}, some 10 ^80 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : of which having decayed^ great intervals are left, wherein the wheels of the carriage were sometimes locked so fast that the horses alone could not possibl J' extricate them. To have remained in the carriage over this part of the road would reallj have been a severe punish- ment ; for although boasted of as being the very best in Albany^ it had no sort of springs^ and was in fact little Ijeiter than common w^aggon ; we therefore alighted, took our guns, and amused ourselves with shooting as we walked along through the woods. The woods here had a much more majestic appearance than any that we had before met with on our way from Philadelphia; tliis^ however, was owing more to the great height than to the thickness of the trees, for I could not see one that appeared more than thirty inches in dia- meter ; indeed, in general, the girt of the trees in the woods of America is but very small in proportion to their height, and trifling in com- parison of that of the forest trees in Great Britain. The thickest tree I ever saw in the country was a sycamore, which grew upon the bank of the Skenandoab River, just at its junction wilh the Patowmac, in a bed of rich earth, close to the w ater ; yet this tree was no J^ore than about four feet four inches in dia- meter. On the low grounds in Kentucky, ?ind on some of the bottoms in the western V/OODS. 2SI territory, it, is said that trees are commonlv to be met with seven and eight feet in diameter. Where thisls the case, the trees most certainly grow much farther apart than they do in ihe woods in the middle states, towards the At- lantic, for there they spring up so very ciose to each other, that it is absohitely impossible for them to attain to a great diameter. The woods here were composed cluefly of oaks*, hiccory, hemlock, and beech trees intermixed with which appeared great num- bers of the smooth bark or Weymouth pines^ as they are called; that seem almost peculiar to this part of the country. A profusion of wild raspberries were grov^ing in the woods here, really of a very good flavour; they are commonly found in the woods to the north- ward of this ; in Canada they abound every where. Beyond Fort Anne, which is situated at the distance of eight miles from Fort Edward, the roads being better, we once more mounted into our vehicle ; but the miserable horses, quite jaded, now made a dead stop; in vain the driver bawled, and stamped, and swore; his whip had been previously worn out some hours, owing to the frequent use he had made of it, and the animals no longer feeling ^ There are upwards of twenty different kinds of oaks ia America. 283 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA ! its heavy lash, seemed as determined as tlie mules of the abbess of Andouiires to go no farther. In this situation we could not help bantering the fellow upon the excellence of his cattle^ which he had boasted so much of at setting out, and he was ready to cry with vexa- tion at what we said; but having accidentally mentioned the sum we had paid for the car- riage, his passion could no longer be restrain- ed, and it broke forth in all its fury. It ap- peared that he was the owner of two of the horses, and for the use of them, and for driv- ing the carriage, was to have had one half of the hire ; but the man whom he had agreed with, and paid at Albany, had given him only ten dollars as his moiety, assuring him, at the same time, that it was exactly the half of v/hat we had given, although in reality it tell short of the sum by seven dollars and a half. 1 hus cheated by his companion, and left in the lurch by his horses, he vowed vengeance against him pn his return ; but as protestations of this nature would not bring us any sooner to our journey's end, and as it was necessary that something should be immediately done, if we did not wish to remain all night in the woods, we suggested the idea, in the mean time, of his conducting the foremost horses as postilion, whilst one of our servants should drive the pair next to the wheel. This plan SKENESBOROUGH. 283 was not started with any degree of serious- ness, for we could not have supposed that a tall meagre fellow^ upwards of six feet high, and clad in a pair of thin nankeen breeches, would very readily bestride the raw boned back of a horse, covered v^ith the profuse exuda- tions which the intense heat of the weather, and the labour the animal had gone through, necessarily excited. As much tired, how- ever, with our pleasantries as we were of his vehicle, and thinking of uolhir^g, I believe, but liow he could best get rid of us, he eagerly embraced the proposal, and accordingly, hav- ing furnished himself with a s vvifcii from the adjoining thicket, he mounted his harnessed Rosinante. In this style we proceeded : but more than once did our gigantic postilion turn round to bemoan the sorry choice he had made; as often did we urge the necessity of getting out of the woods ; he could make no answer; so jogging slowly along, we at last reached the iiUle town of Skenesborough, much to the am^isemeot of every one who beheld our equipage, and much to our own satis- faction ; for, owing to the various a cidents we had met with, such as traces breaking, '^'bridles slipping off the heads or trie horses, and the noble horses themselves si^iieliiiies slipping down^ &C. ^c, we had been ao le^s 284f TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: than five hours in travelling the lasfc twelve miles. Skenesborough stands just above thejunc-- tion of Wood Creek with South River, as it is called in the best maps, but which, by the people in the neighbourhood, is considered as a part of Lake Champlain. At present there are only about twelve houses in the place ; bat if the navigation of Wood Creek is ever opened, so as to connect Lake Champlain With the North River, a scheme which has already been seriously thought of, it will^ doubtless, soon become a trading town of con- siderable importance, as all the various pro- ductions of the shores of the lake will then be collected there for the New York and Al- bany markets. Notwithstanding all the dis- advantages of a land carriage of forty miles to the North River, a small portion of flour and pot-ash, the staple commodities of the state of New York, is already sent to Skenes- borough from different parts of the lake, to be forwarded to Albany. A considerable trade also is carried on through this place, and over Lake Champlain, between New York and Ca- nada. Furs and horses principally are sent from Canada, and in return they get East In- dian goods and various manufactures. Lake Champlain opens a very ready communica- MUSQUITOEf. 285 tion between New York and the country bor- dering* on the St. Lawrence; it is emphatically called by the Indians, Caniad — Eri Guarimte^ the mouth or door of the country. Skenesborough is most dreadfully infested with musquitoes ; so many of them attacked us the first night of our sleeping there, that when we arose in the mornin^i; our f^ices and hands were covered all over with large pus- tules, precisely like those of a person in the small pox. This happened too, notwithstand- ing that the people of the house, before we went to bed, had taken all the pains possible to clear the room of them, by fumigating it with the smoke of green wood, and afterwards se- curing the windows with gauze blinds; and even on the second night, although we de- stroyed many dozens of them on the walls, after a similar fumigation had been made, yet we suffered nearly as much. These insects were of a much larger size than any I ever saw elsewhere, and their bite was uncommooiy venomous. General Washington told me^ that he never was so much annoyed by mus- quitoes in any part of America as in Skenesbo- rough, for that they used to bite through the thickest boot. The situation of the place is indeed peculiarly favourable for them, being just on the margin of a piece of water, al- most stagnant, and shaded with thick woods. 286 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA ! The musqiMto is of the same species with the common gnat in England, and resembles it very cloF;e]y boih in size and shape. Like the gnat, it hivs its eggs on tlie su;rface of the water, where they are hatched in the course of a few days, nnless the water is agitated, in whii h hist case they are all de- stroyed. From the egg is produced a grab, which changes to a chrysalis, and afterwards to a TOiisquito ; this last change takes place on the surfoce of the water, and if at the mo- ment that insect first spre^ids its wings the water is not perfectly stiil and the air calm^ it will be inevitably destroyed ; at tho?e part*^ of the lake, therefore, which are most ex- posed, and where the water is oftenest agitated^ no such thing as a mosquito is ever seen ; neither are they ever found along a large and rapid river, where the shores are lofty and dry; but in the neighbourhood of marshes, low grounds, and stagnant waters, they always abound. Musquitoes appear to be particularly fond of the fresh blood of Europeans, who al- ways suffer much more the first year of their arrival in America than they do afterwards. The people of the country seem quite to dis- regard their attacks. \l herever they fix their sting, a little tumor or pustule usually arises, supposed to be occasioned by the fermentation when mixed with the blood, of a small quan- MUSQUITOES. 28T tlty of liquor which the insect always injects into the wound it makes with its spicula^ as may be'seen through a microscope^ and which it probably does to render the blood more fluid. The disagreeable itching this excites^ is most effectually allayed by the application of vola- tile alkali ; or if the part newly stung be scratched and immediately bathed in cold wa- ter^ that also affords considerable relief; but after the venom has been lodged for any time, scratching only increases the itching^ and it may be attended with great danger. Repeated instances have occurred of people having been laid up for months, and narrowly escaping the loss of a limb, from imprudently rubbing a part which had been bitten for a long time. Great ease is also derived from opening the pustules on the second day with a lancet^ and letting out the blood and w^atery matter. 288 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : LETTER XXL EniharJc on Lake Champlairi. — Difficuliy of procuring Provisions at Farms bordeiing npoii lt\~ Ticonderop;a, — Crown Point, — Great Beautij of the Scenery General De- scription of Lake Chainplain and the adja- cent Country, — Captain Thomas and his Lidians arrive at Crozvn Point, — Character of Thomas, — Peach St. John. — Description of that Place. — Great Difference ohsen:aMe in the Faxe of the Country, Lihabitants, ^c. in Canada and in the States. — Chanlhly Castle. — Calashes. — Pons Dieiix. — Town of La Prarie. — Great Rapidity cf the River Saint Lawrence. — Cross to Montr ecd, — Astonishment on seeing large Sltips at Mont- real.— Great Depth of the Rive Montreal, July. SHORTLY after our arrival in Skeiiesbo- roughs we hired a small boat of about ten tons for the purpose of crossing Lak^^ Cham- plain. It was our wish to proceed on the Yojage immediately ; but the owner of tlie boat asserting that it was impossible to go out with the wind then blowing;, we were for threa days detained in Skenesborough, a deli- cious feast for the hungry musquitoes. The LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 289 wind shifted again and again, still it was not fair in the opinion of our boatman. At last^ being most heartily tired of our quarters, and suspecting that he did not understand his bu- siness as well as he ought to have done, we re- solved not to abide by his opinion any longer, but to make an attempt at beating out ; and we had great reason to be pleased with having done so, as we arrived in Canada three days before any of the other boats, that did not ven- ture to move till the wind was quite aft. We set off about one o'clock ; but from the channel being very narrow, it was impossible to make much way by tacking. We got no farther than six miles before sun-set. We then stopped, and having landed, walked up to some farm houses, which appeared at a distance, on the Vermont shore, to procure provisions ; for the boatman had told us it was quite unne- cessary to take in any at Skenesborough, as ijfveie were excellent houses close to the shore the whole way, where we could get whatever we wished. At the first we went to, which was a comfortable log-house, neither bread, nor meat, nor milk, nor eggs, were to be had ; the house was crowded with children of all ages, and the people, I suppose, thought they had but little enough for themselves. At a second house, we found a venerable old man at the door, reading a news-paper, who civilly VOL. I, u 290 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: offered it to us for our perusal, and began to talk upon the politics of the day ; we thanked him for his offer, and gave him to understand^ at the same time, that a loaf would be much more acceptable. Bread there was none ; we got a new Vermont cheese, however. A third house now remained in sight, and we made a third attempt at procuring something to eat. This one was nearly tmlf a mile off, but, alas ! it afforded still less than the last ; the people had nothing to dispose of but a little milk. With the milk and the cheese, therefore, we returned to our boat, and adding thereto some biscuits and wine^ which we had luckily oil board, the whole afforded us a frugal repast. The people at the American farm houses will cheerfully lie three in a bed, rather than suffer a stranger to go away who comes to seek for a lodging. As all these houses, however^ which ¥/e had visited, were crowded with in- habitants;, we felt no great inclination to ask for accommodation at any of them, but deter- mined to sleep on board our little vessel. We accordingly moored her at a convenient part of the shorC;, and each of us having wrapped himself up in a blanket, which we had been warned to provide on leaving New York, we laid ourselves down to sleep. The boat was decked two-thirds of her length forward, and had a commodious hold; we gave the pre- 1 LAKE CHAiMPLAIN. 291 ferencC;, liovyever^ because more airy^ to the cabin or after part^, fitted up with benches^ and covered with a wooden aw ning, under which a man could just sit upi^Iit, provided he was not very tail. The benches^ which went lengthwise^ accommodated two of us ; and the third was obliged to put up with the cabin floor ; but a blanket and a bare boards out of the way of musquitoes^ were luxuries after our accommodations at Skenesborough ; our ears were not assailed by the noise even of a single one the whole nighty and we enjoyed sounder repose than we had done for many nights preceding. The wind remained nearly in the same point the next mornings but the lake being wider^ we were enabled to proceed faster. We stopped at one house to breakfast^ and at an- other to dine. At neither of tliese^ although they bore the name of taverns^ were we able to procure much more than at the houses where we had stopped the preceding evening. At the first we got a little milk^ and about two pounds of breads absolutely the whole of what was in the house ; and at the second^, a few eggs and some cold salted fat pork ; but not a morsel of bread was to be had. The wretched appearance also of this last habita- tion was very striking ; it consisted of a v/ooden framC;, merely with a few boards nailed against u 2 292 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : it^ the crevices between which were the only apertures for the admission of lights except tha door ; and the roof was so leaky^ that we were sprinkled with the rain even as we sat at the fireside. That people can live in such a man- ner, who have the necessaries and convenien- ces of life within their reach, as much as any others in the world, is really most astonishing ! It is, however, to be accounted for, by that de- sire of making money, which is the predo- minant feature in the character of the Ame- ricans in general, and leads the petty farmer in particular to suffer numberless inconveniences, when he can gain by so doing. If he can sell the produce of his land to advantage, he keeps as small a part of it as possible for himself, and lives the whole year round upon salt provi- sions, bad bread, and the fish he can catch in the rivers or lakes in the neighbourhood; if he has built a comfortable house for himself, he readily quits it, as soon as finished, for mo- ney, and goes to live in a mere hovel in the w oods till he gets time to build another. Mo- ney is his idol, and to procure it he gladly fore- goes every self-gratification. From this miserable habitation, just men- tioned, we departed as soon as the rain was over, and the wind coming round in our fa- vour, we got as far as Ticonderoga that night. The only dwelling here is the tavern, which TICONDEROGA. 293 is a large house built of stone. On entering it we were shewn into a spacious apartment, crowded with boatmen and people that had just arrived from St. John's, in Canada. See- ing such a number of guests in the house, we expected nothing less than to be kept an hour or two till sujSicient supper was prepared for the whole company, so that all might sit down at once together, which, as I have before said^ is the custom in the country parts of the Unit- ed States. Our surprise therefore was great at perceiving a neat table and a comfortable little supper speedily laid out for us, and no attempts made at serving the rest of the company till we had quite finished. This was departing from the system of equality in a manner which we had never witnessed before, and we were at a loss for some time to account for it ; but we presently heard that the woman of the house had kept a tavern for the greater part of her life at Quebec, which resolved the knotty point. The wife is generally the active person in ma- naging a country tavern, and the husband at- tends to his farm, or has some independant oc- cupation. The man of this house was a judge, a sullen demure old gentleman, who sat by the fire*, with tattered clothes and dishevelled * Though this was the 14th day of July, the weather was so €old that we found a tire extremely agreeable. , « 294 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : locks^ reading a book^ totally regardless of every person in the room. The old fort and barracks of Ticonderoga are on the top of a rising ground^ just behind the tavern ; they are quite in ruiiis^ and it is not likely that they will ever be rebuilt^ for the situation is very insecure^ being commanded by a lofty hill called Mount Defiance. The Biitish got possession of the place the last war by dragging cannon and mortars up the hiil^ and firing down upon the fort. Early the next morning we left Ticon- deroga^ and pursued our voyage to Crown Pointy where we landed to look at the old fort. Nothing is to be seen there^ however^ but a lieap of ruins ; for sliortly before it was given up by the British^ the powder magazine blew up^ by which accident a great part of the works was destroyed ; since the evacuation of it also, the people in the neighbourhood have been continually digging in different parts, in hopes of procuring lead and iron shot ; a consider- able quantity was in one instance got out of the stores that had been buried by the explosion. The vaults, which were bomb-proof, have been demolished for the sake of the bricks for building chimneys. At the south side alone the ditches remain perfect ; they are wide and deep, and cut through immense rocks of lime- stone ; and from being overgrown towards the CllOWN POINT. 295 top with different kinds of shrubs, have a grand and picturesque appearance. The view from this spot of the fort, and the old buildings iu it overgrown with ivy, of the lake, and of the distant mountains beyond it, is indeed altoge- ther very fine. The fort and seven hundred acres of good cleared land adjoining to it, are the property of the state of New York, and are leased out at the rate of one hundred and fifty dollars, equal to 331. lOs. sterling per an- num, which is appropriated for the use of a college. The farmer who rented it told us, he principally made use of the land for graz- ing cattle ; these, in the winter season, when the lake was frozen^ he drove over the ice to Albany, and there disposed of. Crown Point is the most advantageous spot on the shores of Lake Champlain for a mili- tary post, not being commanded by any rising grounds in the neighbourhood, as Ticonderoga is ; and as the lake is so narrow here, ov/ing to another point running out on the opposite side, that it would be absolutely impossible for a vessel to pass, without being exposed to the fire of the fort. The Indians call this place Tek-ya-dough-nigarigee, that is, the two points immediately op^-osite to each other : the one opposite to Crov/n Point is called Chimney Point : upon it are a few houses, one of which is a tavQrn. While we staid there w@ ^YCX% 296 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA r very agreeably surprised, for the first time, with the sight of a large birch canoe upon the lake^ navigated by two or three Indians in the dresses of their nation. They made for the shore and soon landed ; and shortly after another party, amounting to six or seven, arrived, that had come by land. On board our little vessel we had a poor Canadian, whom we took in at Skenesborough. Tempted by the accounts he had heard of the United States, he quitted his own home in Canada, where he lived under one of the seigniors ; and had gone as far as Albany, in the neighbourhood of which place he had worked for some time w itli a farmer : but finding, that although he got higher wages, he had to pay much niore for his pro- visions than in Canada, and that he was also most egregiously cheated by the people, and particularly by his employer, from whom he could not get even the money he had earned ; finding likewise that he was unable to procure any redress, from being ignorant of the Eng- lish language, the poor fellow determined to return to Canada, and on his way thither we met him, without a shilling in his pocket. Having asked this little fellow, as we sailed along, some questions about the Indians, he immediately gave us a long account of a Cap- tain Thomas, a chief of the Cachenonaga na- CAPTAIN THOMAS. 297 tion, in the neighbourhood of whose village he said he lived. Thomas^, he told us, was a very rich man, and had a most excellent house, in which he said he lived as well as a seignior, and he was sure we should be well received if we went to see him ; he told us also that he had built a church, and was a christian ; that he was very charitable, and that if he were ac- quainted with his present distress he would certainly make him a present of four or five dollars. Oh je vous assure, messieurs, que c'est un bon sauvage/' It was impossible not to smile at the little Canadian, who, half naked himself^ and nearly as dark as a mulatto, concluded his panegyric upon Thomas, by assuring us, ""^he v/as a good savage at the same time we felt a strong desire to behold this chief, of whom we had heard so much. It was not long before we were gratified, for the party % of Indians that arrived whilst we were at Chim- ney Point w^ere from the Cachenonaga village, and at their head was Captain Thomas. Thomas appeared to be about forty-five years of age ; he was nearly six feet high, and very bulky in proportion : this is a sort of make uncommon among the Indians, who are gene- rally slender. He was dressed like a white man, in boots ; his hair untied, but cut short ; the people who attended him were all in the Indian habit. Not one of his followers could 298 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA : speak a word of English or French ; Thomas, however^ could himself speak both languages, English he spoke with some little hesitation, and not correctly ; but French seemed as fa- miliar to him as his native tongue. His prin- cipal attention seemed to be directed towards trade, which he had pursued with great suc- cess, so much so, indeed, that, as we after- wards heard, he could get credit in any store in Montreal for five hundred pounds. He had along with him at Chimney Point thirty horses^ and a quantity of furs in the canoe, which he was taking for sale to Albany. His people, he told us, had but very few w ants ; he took care to have these always supplied ; in return they brought him furs, taken in hunting ; they attended his horses, and voluntarily accom- panied him when he went on a tradiiig expe- dition : his profits therefore must be immense. During the course of conversation he told us^ that if we came to see him he would make us very happy ; that there were some very hand- some squaws * in his village, and that each of us should have a wife ; w^e promised to visit him if it was in our power, and parted very good friends. Thomas, as w^e afterwards found, is not a man respected among the Indians in ge- neral, who think much more of a chief that is a good warrior and hunter, and that retains ths * Female Indians. LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 29f habits of his nation, than of one that becomes a trader, and assiniilates his manners to those of the whites. Lake Champlain is about one hundred and twenty miles in length, and is of Yarious breadths : for the first thirty miles, that is, from South River to Crown Point, it is in no place more than two miles wide ; beyond this, for the distance of twelve miles, it is five or six miles across, but then again it narrows, and again at the end of a few miles expands. That part called the Broad Lake, because broader than any other, commences about twenty-five miles north of Crown Point, and is eighteen miles across in the widest part. " Here the lake is interspersed with a great iiuMibcr of islandr^;, the largest of which, formerly called Grande Isle, now South Hero, is fifteen miles in lengthy and, on an average, about four in breadth. The soil of this island is fertile, and it is said that five hundred people are settled upon iL The Broad Lake is nearly fifty miles in length, and gradually narrows till it termioates in a large river called Chambly, Richlieu, or So- relle, which runs into the St. Law^reoce. The soundings of Lake Cham.plain, except at the narrovi^ parts at either end, are in genera! very deep; in many places sixty and seventy, and in some even one hundred fathoms. la proportion to its breadth and depths, tlie water ,8 SOO TRITELS THROUGir NORTH AMfeRlbA ! ig more or less clear ; in the broad part it is as pure and transparent as possible. On the west side^ as far as Cumberland Bay, the lake is bounded for the most part by steep mountains close to the edge of the water ; at Cumberland Bay the ridge of mountains runs off to the north-west;, and the shore farther on is low and swampy. The East or Vermont shore is not much elevated, except in a few particular places ; at the distance of twelve miles, how- ever, from the lake> is a considerable mountain. The shores on both sides are very rocky ; where there are mountains these rocks jut out very boldly ; but at the east side, where the land is low,, they appear but a little above the water. The islands also, for the most part, are sur- rounded with rocks, in some parts^ shelving down into the lake, so that it is dangerous to approach within one or two miles of them at particular sides. From some parts of the eastern shore the rocks also run out in the same man- ner for a considerable distance. Sailing along the shore when a breeze is blowing, a hollow murmuring noise is always heard from the wa- ters splashing into the crannies of these rocks. There are many streams which fall into the lake : the mouths of all those on the western side are obstructed by falls, so that none of themt are navigable. Of those on the eastern or Vermont side, a few only are navigable for small boats^ and that for a short distance* SCENERY. SOI The scenery along various parts of the lake is extremely grand and picturesque^, particu- larly beyond Crown Point ; the shores are there beautifully ornamented with hanging woods and rocks^ and the mountains on the western side rise up in ranges one behind the other in the most magnificent manner. It was on one of the finest evenings possible that we passed along this part of the lake^ and the sun setting in all his glory behind the mountains^ spread the richest tints over every part of the prospect; the moon also appearing nearly in the full, shortly after the day had closed^ afforded us an opportunity of beholding the surrounding scenery in fresh though less brilliant colours. Our little bark was now gliding smoothly along, whilst every one of us remained wrapt up in silent contemplation of the solemn scene, when suddenly she struck upon one of the shelving rocks : nothing but hurry and confusion was now visible on board, every one lending his assistance ; however, at last, with some diffi- culty, we got her off* ; but in a minute she struck a second time, and after we had again ♦ extricated her, even a third and a fourth time ; at last she stuck so fast, that for a short time we despaired of being able to move her. At the end of a quarter of an hour, however, we again fortunately got her into deep water. We had before suspected that our boatman did not 302 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA: know a great deal about the navigation of the lake^ and on questioning him nov^^ it came out, that he had been a cobler all his life^ till within the last nine months^ when he thought proper to change his business^ and turn sailor. All the knowledge he bad of the shores of the lake^ was what he had picked up during that time, as he sailed straight backward and forward be- tween St John's and Skenesborougli. On the present occasion he had mistaken one bay for another^ and had the waves been as high as they sometimes are^ the boat w ould inevitably Iiave been dashed to pieces. The humble roof of another judge^ a plainfe Scotcli labourer;, alFordcd us shelter for this n-ight. It was near eleven o'clock, however^ when we got there, and the family ha ving^ retired to rest, we ha,d to remain rapping and ealliDg at the door for half an hour at least, before we could get admittance. The people at last being roused., opened their doors, cheer- fully got us some supper, and prepared their best beds for us. In the morning, having paid OUT reckoning to the judge, he returned to his plough, and we to our boat to prosecute . our voyage. We set oif this day with a remarkable fine breeze, and being desirous of terminating our voyage as soon as possible, of which we began Biow to be somewhat tired, we stopped but BOUNDARY. 303 once in the course of the day, and determined to sail on all night. A short time after sun- set we passed the boundary between the Bri- tish dominions and the United States. Here we were brought to by an armed brig of twenty gunS;, under English colours, stationed for the purpose of examining all boats passing up and down the lake; the answers which we gave to the several questions asked behig satis- factory, we were accordingly suiTered to pro- ceed. Since the surrender of the posts, pur-^ suant to the late treaty with the United States^ this brig has been removed, and laid up at St, John's. When night came on, we wrapped ourselves up in our blankets, as we had done on the first night of our voyage, and laid down upon the cabin floor, where we might possibly have slept until we got to St. John's, had we not been awakened at midnight by the loud hollas of the sentinel at the British fort on Isle aux Noix. On examining into the matter, it appeared that the boat had been driven on shore, while our sleepy pilot enjoyed his nap at the helm; and the sentinel, unable to imagine what we were about, seeing the boat run up close under the fort, and suspicious of some attack, I suppose, had turned out the whole guard; by vv^hom, after being examined and re-examined, we were finally dismissed. We now took the command of the boat upon 504 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA! ourselves^ for the boatman^ although he was more anxious to get to St. John's than any one of us, and though he had himself in some measure induced us to go on, was so sleepy that he could not keep his eyes open. Re- lieving each other at the helm, we reached St. John's by day-break; one hundred and fifty miles distant from Skenesborough. Immediately on our landing we were con- ducted to the guard house, w here we had to deliver to the serjeant on duty, to be by hini forwarded to the commanding officer, an ac- count of our names, occupation, and place of abode, the strictest orders having been issued by the governor not to suffer any Frenchmen or other foreigners, or any people who could not give an exact account of their business in Canada, to enter into the country. St. John's is a garrison town; it contains about fifty miserable wooden dwellings, and barracks, in which a whole regiment is gene- rally quartered. The fortifications are entirely out of order, so much so that it would be cheaper to erect fresh works than to attempt to repair them. There is a king's dock yard here> well stored with timber, at least when we saw it ; but in the course of the summer, after the armed brig which I mentioned was laid up, all the timber was sold off. The old luilks of several vessels of force were lying* CHAMBLY. 305 Opposite the yard. In proportion to the in- crease of trade between New York and Lower Canada, this town must improve^ as it is the British port of entry on Lake Champlain. The country about St. John's is flat^ and very bare of trees, a dreadful fire in the year 1788 ha viug done great mischief, and destroy- ed all the w oods for several miles : in some parts of the neighbourhood the people suffer extreme- ly during winter from the want of fuel. At St. John's we hired a light w aggon, simi- lar to those made use of in the United States, and set off about noon for La Prairie, on the banks of the river St. Lawrence. By the di- rect road this is only eighteen miles distant ; but the most agreeable way of going thither is by Chambly, which is a few^ miles farther, on account of seeing tlie old castle built there by the French. The castle stands close to the rapids in Chambly or Sorell River, and at a little distance has a grand appearance ; the ad- jacent country also being very beautiful ; the whole together forms a most interesting scene. The castle is in tolerably good repair, and a garrison is constantly kept in it. As you travel along this road to La Prairie, after having just arrived from the United States * over Lake Champlain, a variety of objects for- cibly remind you of your having got into a VOL. I, X 306 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA: new country. The British fla«% the soldiers on duty^ the French inhabitants running about in their red nightcaps, the children coming to the doors to salute you as you pass, a thing un- known in any part of the United States; the compact and neat exterior appearance of the houses, the calashes, the bons dieux, the large Roman Catholic churches and chapels, the con- vents, the priests in their robes, the nuns, the friars, all serve to convince you, that you are no longer in any part of the United States : the language also differs, French being here univer- sally spoken. The calash is a carriage very generally used in Lower Canada ; there is scarcely a farmer indeed in the country who does not possess one : it is a sort of one horse chaise, capable of hold- ing two people besides the driver, who sits on a kind of box placed over the foot board, ex- pressly for his accommodation. The body of the calash is hung upon broad straps of leather, round iron rollers that are placed behind by means of which they are shortened or lengthen- ed. On each side of the carrias:e is a little door about two feet high, whereby you enter it, and which is useful when shut, in prevent- ing any thing from slipping out. The harness for the horse is always made in the old French taste, extremely heavy ; it is studded with brass MONTREAL. 307 nails, and to particular parts of it are attached small bells^ of no use that I could ever discover but to annoy the passenger. The boas dieux are large wooden crucifixes, sometimes upwards of twenty feet in height^ placed on the highway ; some of them are highly ornamented and painted : as the people pass they pull off their hats, or in some other way make obeisance to them. La Prairie de la Madelaine contains about one hundred houses. After stopping an hour or two there, we embarked in a bateau for Mont- real. Montreal is situated on an island of the same namC;, on the opposite side of the river St. Law- rence to that on v/liich La Prairie stands, but somewhat lower down. The two towns are nine miles apart, and the river is about two miles and a quarter wide. The current here is prodigiously strong, and in particular places as you cross, the boats are hurried down the stream, in the midst of large recks, with such impetuosity that it seems as if nothing could save them from being dashed to pieces ; indeed this would eertaiidy be the case, if the men w ere not uncommonly expert ; but the Canadiavis are the most dexterous people perhaps in the v/orld at the management of bateaux in rapid rivers. After such a prospect of the River St. Law"- rencC; it was not \Yithout astonishment that on 30S TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA. approaching the town of Montreal, we beheld ships of upwards of four hundred tons burthen lying' close to the shore. The difficulties which vessels have to encounter in getting to Mont- real are immense ; I have myself seen them >vith all their sails set, and with a smart and favoura^ble breeze, stationary for an hour to- gether in the stream, unable to stem it, between the island of St. Helene and the main land, just below the town : to stem the current at this place, it is almost necessary that the vessel should be aided by a storm. The ascent is equally difficult in several other parts of the river. Owing to this it is, that the passage from Quebec to Montreal is generally more tedious than that across, the Atlantic ; those ships, therefore, which trade between Europe and Montreal never attempt to make more than one voyage during the year. Notwith- standing the rapidity of the stream, the chan- nel of the river is very deep, and in particular just opposite to the town. The largest mer- chant vessels can there lie so close to the banks, which are in their natural state, that you may nearly touch them with your hand as you stand on the shore. ( 301) ) LETTER XXIL Description of the Toivii of Montreal. — Of the public Buildings. — Churches,— Funeral Ce- remonies. -^Convents. — Barracks, — Fortifi- cations, — InhaJntants mostly French. — Their Character and Manners. — Charming Pros- pects in the Neighbourhood of the Toum. — Amusements during Summer. — Parties of Pleasure up the Mountain. — Of the Fur Trade. — The Manner in whicli it is carried on. — Grecit Enterprise of ibe North West Company of Merchants. — Sketch of Mr. M'Kensie's Expeditions over Land to the Pacific Ocean,^Differences between the Jsorth West and Hudson's Bay Company, Montreal^ July. THE town of Montreal was laid out pur-^ siiant to the orders of one of the kings of France : which were^ that a town should be built as high up on the St. Lawrence as it were possible for vessels to go by sea. In fixing upon the spot where it stands^ his commands were complied with^ in the strictest sense. The town at present contains about twelve hun- dred houses^ whereof five hundred only are within the walls ; the rest are in the suburbs^ which commence from the norths east^ and west 310 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA ! gates: the bouses in the suburbs are mostly built of wood^ but the others are all of stoue ; none of them are eieganti but there are many very comfortable habitations. In the lower part of the town, towards the river, where most of the shops stand, they have a very gloomy appear- ance, and look like so many prisons, being all furnished at the outside with sheet iron shut- ters to the doors and windows, which are re- gularly closed towards evening, in order to guard against fire. The town has suffered by fire very materially at different times, and the inhabitants have such a dread of it, that all who can afford it, cover the roofs of their houses with tin plates instead of shingles. By law they are obliged to have one or more ladders in proportion to the size of the house, always ready on the roofs. The streets are all very narrow ; three of them rim parallel to the river, and these are interse-uled by others at right angles, but not at regular distances, On the side of the town farthest from the river, and nearly- bet ween the northern and southern extremi- ties, there is a small square, called La Place d'Aruies, which seems originally to have been left open to the walls on one side, and to have been intended for the military to exercise in ; the troops, however, never make use of it novv ,, but parade on a long v>alk, behind the walls. MONTREAL. 311 nearer to the barracks. On the opposite side of the town;, towards the water^ is another small square where the market is held. There are six churches in Montreal ; one for English Episcopalians^ one for Presbyterians, and four for Roman Catholics. The catliedral church belonging to the latter^ which occu- pies one side of La Place d'Armes, is a Ycry spacious building;, and contains five altars^, all very richly decorated. The doors of this ca- thedral are left open the greater part of the day^ and there are generally, numbers of old people in it at their prayers, even when no re-r gular service is going on. On a fine Sunday n the summer season^ such multitudes flock to it, that even the steps at the outside are cover- ed with people, who, unable to get in, remain there kneeling with their hats off during the whole time of divine service. Nearly all the christenings, marriages, and burials of the Roman Catholic inhabitants of Montreal are performed in this church, on which occasions, as well as before and during the masses, they always ring the bells, to the great annoyance of every person that is not a lover of discords ; for instead of pulling the bells, w^hich are five in number, and really well toned, with regu- larity, they jingle them all at once, without any .«ort of cadence whatever. Our lodgings hap- - 31S TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA : pened to be in La Place d'Armes ; and during three weeks ibat we remained tliere^ I verily believe the beils were never suffered to remain still for two hours together^ at any onetime^ except in the night. The funerals^ as in otlier Roman Catholic countries, are conducted with great ceremony ; the corpse is always attended to the church by a number of priests chanting prayers^, and by little boys in white robes arid black caps carry- ing wax lights. A morning scarcely ever pass- ed over^ that one or more of the processions did not pass under our windows whilst we were at breakfiist ; for on the opposite side of the square to that on vv^hich tS e cathedral stood, was a sort of chapel^ to which the bodies of all those per- sons^ v^^hose f\ iends could not afford to pay for an expensive funeral, were brought;, I suppose in the nighty for we coold never see any car- ried intherc:, and from thence conveyed in the morning to the cathedral. If the priests are paid for it, they go to the house of the deceas- ed, though it be ever so far distant, a.nd escort the corpse to the church. Until within a few years past, it was customary to bury all the bodies in the vaults underneath the cathedral ; but now it ^3 prohibited, lest some putrid dis- order should break out in the town in conse- quence of such numbers being deposited there« MONTREAL. 313 The burying grounds are all without the walls at present. There are in Montreal four convents, one of which is of the order of St. Francis ; the number of the friars^ however^ is reduced now to two or three^ and as by the laws of the province men can no longer enter into any religious order, it will of course in a few years dwindle entirely away. On the female orders there is HO restriction, and they are still well filled. The Hotel Dieu, founded as early as 1644, for the relief of the sick poor, and which is the oldest of the convents, contains thirty religieuses,'' nuns ; La Congregation de Notre Dame, in- stituted for the instruction of young girls, con- tains fifty-seven soeurs, another sort of nuns ; and L'Hospital Generale, for the accommo- dation of the infirm poor, contains eighteen soeurs. The barracks are agreeably situated near the rivjer^ at the lower end of the town ; they are surrounded by a lofty wall, and calculated to contain about three hundred men. The walls round the town are mouldering away very fast, and in some places are totally in ruins ; the gates however remain quite perfect. The walls were built principally as a defence against the Indians, by whom the country was thickly inhabited when Montreal y^as founded, and they were found necessary^ 314 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA : to repel the open attacks of these people^ as late as the year 1736. When the large fairs used to be held in Montreal^ to which the Indians from all parts resorted with their furs^ they were also found extremely useful, as the inhabitants v/ese thereby ^enabled to shut out the Indians at night, who, had they been suffer- ed to remain in the tow n, addicted as they are to drinking, might have been tempted to com- mit great outrages, and would have kept the in- habitants in a continual state of alarm. In their best state, the walls could not have protected theto¥/n against cannon, not even against a six- pounder; nor, indeed, would the strongest walls be of any use in defending it against ar- tillery, as it is completely commanded by the eminences in the island of St. Helene'', in the River St. Lawrence. Montreal has always been an easy conquest to regular troops. By far the greater number of the inhabitants of Montreal are of French extraction ; all the eminent merchants, however, and principal people in the town, are either English, Scotch^ Irish, or their descendants, all of w^hom pass for English with the French inhabitants. The Frcri^ch retain in a great measure, the manners and customs of their ancestors, as well as the This island was the last place which the French sur- rendered to the British . MONTREAL, 313 language ; they have an unconquerable aver- sion to learn English^ and it is very rare to meet with any person amongst them, that can speak it in any manner ; but the Eng- lish inhabitants are, for the most part, well acquainted with the French language. The people of Montreal, in general, are re- markably hospitable and attentive to stran- gers; they are sociable also amongst them- selves, and fond in the extreme of convivial amusements. In winter;, they keep up such a constant and friendly intercourse with each other, that it seems then as if the town were inhabited but by one large family. During summer they live somevy hat more retired ; but throughout that season a club, formed of all the principal inhabitants, both male and fe- male, meet every week or fortnight, for the purpose of dining at some agreeable spot in the neighbourhood of the town. The island of Montreal is about twenty- eight miles in length and ten in breadth ; it is the largest of several islands which are si- tuated in the St. Lawrence, at the mouth of the Utawa River. Its soil is luxuriant, and in some parts much cultivated and thickly in- habited. It is agreeably diversified with hill and dale, and towards its center, in the neigh- bourhood of Montreal, there are two or three 316 TRAVELS Timet GH LOWEH CANADA: considerable mountains. The largest of these stands at the distance of about one mile from the town, which is named from it. The base of this mountain is surrounded with neat country houses and gardens, and partial improvements have been made about one third of the w^iy up ; the i'emainder is entirely covered with lofty trees. On that side to- wards the river is a large old monastery, with extensive inclosures walled in, round which the ground has been cleared for some distance. This open part is covered with a rich verdure, and the woods encircling it, instead of being overrun with brushwood, are quite clear at bottom, so that you may here roam about at plea sin e for miles together, shaded, by the lofty trees, from the rays of the sun. The view from hence is grand beyond de^- scription. A prodigious expanse of country is laid open to the eye, with the noble river St. Lavvreiice winding through it, which may he traced from the remotest part of the horizon* The river comes from, the right, and flows smoothly on, after passing down the tremen- dc^us rapids above the tow n, where it is hur-- ried over hu2;e rocks with a noise that is heard even up the mountain. On the left below^ you, appears the town of Montreal, with its churches, monasteries, glittering spires, and the shipping under its old wails ; FUR TRADE. 517 several little islands in the river near the town, partly improved^ partly overgrown with wood, add greatly to the beauty of the scene. La Prarie with its large church on the distant side of the river;, is seen to the greatest advantage, and beyond it^ is a range of lofty mountains which terminates the prospect. Such an end- less variety and such a grandeur is there in the view from this part of the mountain, that eA^en those who are most habituated to the view, always find it a fresh subject of admira- tion whenever they contemplate it; and on this part of the mountain it is that the club w hich I mentioned generally assembles. Tw o stewards are appointed for the day, who always chuse some new spot where there is a spring or rill of water , and an agreeable shade : each family brings cold provisions, wine, &c. ; the whole is put together, and the company^, often amounting to one hundred persons, sits down to dinner. The fur trade is what is chiefly carried on at Montreal, and it is there that the greater part of the furs are shipped, which are sent from Canada to England. This very lucrative trade is carried on, partly by what is called^, the North West Company, and partly by private individuals on their own account. The company does not possess any SIS TRAVELS THROUC^K LOWER CANADA: particular privileges by law^ but from its great capital merely, it is enabled to trade to certain remote parts of the continent^ to the exclusion of those who do not hold any shares in it. It was formed originally by the merchants of Montreal themselves, who wisely considered that the trade could be carried on to those dis- tant parts of the continent^ inhabited solely by Indians, y/ith more security and greater profit^ if they joined together in a body, than if they continued to trade separately. The stock of the company was divided into forty shares^, and as the number of merchants in the town at that time was not very great, this arrangement af- forded an opportunity to every one of them to join in the company if he thought proper. At present these shares have all fallen into the hands of a few persons. The company principally carries on its trade by means of the Utawas or Grand River^ that falls into the St. Lawrence about thirty miles above Montreal, and which forms by its con- fluence vii :h that river, Le Lac de Deux Montagues et le Lac St. Louis," — the lake of the two mountains and the Lake of St. Louis ; wherein are several large islands. To convey the furs down this river^ they make use of ca- noes, formed of the bark of the birch tree ; some of which are upon such a large scale^ that 11 CANOES. 319 they are capable of containing two tons; but they seldom put so much in theiii^ espe- cially on this river^ it being in many places shallow, rapid, and full of rocks^ and contains no less than thirty-two portages. The canoes are navigated by the French Ca- nadians;, who are particularly fond of the em- ployment^ preferring it in general to that of cultivating the ground. A fleet of them sets off from Montreal about the month of May, laden w ith provisions^ consisting chiefly of bis- cuit and salt pork, sufficient to last the crews till their return, and also with the articles given in barter to the Indians. At some of the shal- low places in the river^ it is sufficient if the mea merely get out of the canoes, and push them on into the deep water ; but at others, where there are dangerous rapids and sharp rocks, it is ne- cessary for the men to unlade the canoes, and carry both them and the cargoes on their shoul- ders, till they come again to a safe part of the river. At night they drag the canoes upon shore, light a fire, cook their provisions for the following day, and sleep upon the ground wrapped up in their blankets. If it happens to rain very hard, they sometimes shelter them- selves with boughs of trees, but in general they remain under the canopy of heaven, without any covering but their blankets : they copy ex- actly the Indian mode of life on these occa^ 320 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA: sions^ and many of tliem even wear the Indian dresses, which thej find more convenient than their own. • Having ascended the Utawas River for about two hundred and eighty miles, which it takes them about eighteen days to perform, they then cross by a portage into Lake Nis pissing, and from this lake bj another portage they get upon French River, that falls into Lake Huron on the north-east side ; then coasting along this last lake they pass through the Straits of St. Mary, where there is another .portage into Lake Su- perior; and coasting afterwards along the shores of Lake Superior, they come to the Grand Portage on the north-west side of it ; from hence by a chain of small lakes and rivers they proceed on to the Rainy Lake, to the Lake of the Woods, and for hundreds of miles beyond it through Lake Winnipeg, &c. The canoes, however, which go so far up the country, never return the same year ; those intended to bring back cargoes imme- diately, stop at the Grand Portage, where the furs are collected ready for them by the agents of the company. The furs are made up in packs of a certain weight, and a particular number is put into each canoe. By knowing thus the exact weight of every pack, there can be no embezzlement ; and at the portages there is no time w^astcd in allotting to each m'iienzie's expeditions. S21 ttiari his load^ every one being obliged to carry so maiiy packs. At the Grand Portage, and along that im- mense chain of lakes and rivers, which extend beyond Lake Superior, the company has re- gular posts, where the agents reside ; and with such astonishing enter prize and industry have the affairs of this company been carried on, that trading posts are now established within five hundred miles of the Pacific Ocean. One g;entleman> indeed, a partner in the house at Montreal, which now holds the greatest part of the shares of the company> has even pene- trated to the Pacific^Ocean itself. The jour- nal kept by this gentleman upon the expedi- tion is, it is said, replete with information of the most interesting nature. That it has not been laid before the public long ago^ together with an accurate map of his track, is to be imputed solely to an unfortunate misunder- standing which took place between him and a noble lord high in the confidence of govern- ment. In the first attempt which this adventurous gentleman, a Mr. M'Kenzie, made to pene- trate to the ocean, he set out early in the spring from the remotest of the posts belong- iog to the company. He took with him a single canoe, and a party of chosen men ; and after passing over prodigious tracts of land^, VOI^ I,' • ¥ TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA: never before traversed by any white person^ at last came to a large river. Here the canoe^ which was carried by the men on their shoulders^ was launched^ and having all em- barked^ they proceeded down the stream. From the course this river took for a very great distance^ Mr. M'Kenzie was led to imagine that it. was one of those rivers he was in quest of ; n^mely^ one which emptied itself into the Pacific Ocean; but at the end of several weeks^ during which they had worked their way dov/nward with great eagerness^ he was convinced, from the gradual inclination of the river towards another quarter^ that he must have been mistaken ; and that it was one of those immense rivers, so numerous on the continent of North America, that ran into Baffin's Bay, or the Arctic Ocean. The party was now in a very critical situ- ation ; the season was far advanced, and the length of way which they had to return was prodigious, If thej attempted to go back, and were overtaken by winter, they must in all probability perish for want of provisions in an uninhabited country ; if, on the contrary, they made up their minds to spend the winter where they were, they had no time to lose in building huts, and going out to hunt and fisli^ that they might have sufficient stores to sup- port them through that dreary season. Mr, i^^/kensie's expeditions* 323 iW'Kenzie represented the matter^ in the most open terms^ to liis men^ and left it to them- selves to determine the part they would take. The men were for going back at all hazards ; and the result was^ that they reached their friends in safety. The difficulties they had to contend with, and the exertions they made in returning, were almost surpassing belief. The second expedition entered upon by Mr. M^Kenzie, and which succeeded to his wishes, was undertaken about three years ago. He set out in the same manner, but well pro- vided with several different things, which he found the want of in the first expedition.. He was extremely well furnished this time with astronomical instruments^, and in particular with a good time-piece, that he procured from LoD.don. He took a course somewhat dif- ferent from the first, and passed through many Bations of Indians who ha,d never before seen the face of a v^hite man, amongst some of whom he was for a time in imminent danger ; but he found means at last to conciliate their good will. From some of these Indians he learned, that there w as a ridge of mountains at a little distance^ beyond which the rivers all ran in a western direction. lifeving engaged some of them therefore for guides, he pro- ceeded according to their directions until he came to the mountains, and after ascending 324 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA I them with prodigious labour^ founds to Im great satisfaction^ that the account the Indians had given was true, and that the rivers on the opposite side did indeed all run to the west. He followed the course of one of them^ and finally came to the Pacific Ocean^ not far from Nootka Sound. Here he was given to understand by the na- tives, and their account was confirmed by the sight of some little articles they had amongst them, that an English vessel had quitted the coast only sb: weeks before. This was a great mortification to Mr M'Kenzie ; far had there been a ship on the coast, he would most gladly have embarked in it rather than encounter the same difficulties, and be exposed to the same perils, which he had experienced in getting there ; however there was no alternative ; he set out after a short time on his journey back again, and having found his canoe quite safe undek some bushes, near the head of the river, where he had hid it, together with some pro- visions, left on going down to the coast, lest I the natives might have proved unfriendly, and have cut off his retreat by seizing upon it, he finally arrived at one of the trading posts in security. When I was at Montreal, Mr. M'Kenzie was not there, and I never had an opportunity of seeing him afterwards. What I have here related respecting his two expe- HUDSON BAV. 5^5 ditions is the substance^ to the best of my re- collection, of what 1 heard from his partners. Many other individuals belongiiis^ to the North West Comi any, before Mr. M Kenzie set out, penetrated far into the country in dif- ferent directions, and much beyond what any person had done before them, in order to establish poBts. In some of these excursions they fell m with the agents of the Hudson's Bay Company who were also extending tlieir posts from another quarter : this unexpected meeting between the two companies, at one time gave rise to some very unpleasant : Iter- cations, and the Hudson's BayCompai!y threat- ened the other with an immediate prosecution for an infringement of its charter. By its charter, it seems, the Hudson's Bay Company was allowed the exclusive privilege of trading to the Bay, and along all the rivers and waters connected with it. This charter, however, was granted at a time when the north- ern parts of the continent were much less known than they are now, for to have the ex- clusive trade along all the waters connected with Hudson's Bay was, literally speaking, to have the exclusive trade of the greater part of the continent of North America. Hudson's Bay by a variety of rivers and lakes, is closely con- nected with Lake Superior, and from that chain of lakes^ of which Lake Superior is om 328 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA! there is a water communication throughout all Canada^ and a very great part of the United States ; however^, when the agents of the North-west Company were fixing trading* posts upon some rivers which ran immediately into Hudson's Bay, it undoubtedly appeared to be an infringement of the charter^ and so in- deed it must strictly have , been, had not the Hudson's Bay Company itself infringed its own charter in the first instance, or at least neg- lected to comply with all the stipulations contained therein. A clause seems to have been in the charter, which, at the same time that it granted to the company the exclusive privilege of trading to Hudson's Bay, and along all the waters connected with it, bound it to erect a new post twelve miles farther to the westward every year, otherwise the char- ter was to become void. This had not been done; the Nortli-west Company therefore rested perfectly easy about the menaces of a pros'ecution, satisfied that the other company did not in fact legally possess those privileges to which it laid claim. The Hudson's Bay Company, though it threatened, never indeed attempted to put its threats into execution, w^ell knowing the weak ness of its cause, but continued nevertheless to watch the motions of its rival with a most jealous eye; and as in extending their respect- TRADING COMPANIES. 327 ive trades^ the posts of the two companies were approximating nearer and nearer to each other every year^ there was great reason to imagine that their differences:, instead of abating^ would become still greater than they were, and finally^ perhaps^ lead to consequences of the most serious nature. A circumstance^ however^ unexpectedly took place, at a time when the greatest enmity subsisted between the parties, which happily reconciled them to each other, and terminated all their disputes. Avery powerful nation of Indians, called the Assiniboins, who inhabit an extended tract of country to the south-west of Lake Winni- peg, conceiving that the Hudson's Bay Com- pany had encroached unreasonably upon their territories, and had otherwise maltreated a part of their tribe, formed the resolution of instantly destroying a post established by that company in their neighbourhood. A large body of them soon collected together, and breathing the fiercest spirit of revenge, marched unperceived and unsuspected by the party against whom their expedition was planned, till within a short distance of their post. Here they baited ac- cording to custom, waiting only for a favour-^ able moment to pounce upon their prey. Some of the agents of the North-west Company^ however, who were scattered about this part of the country, fortunately got intelligence of their S2S TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA! design. Tliej knew the weakness of the placa about to be attacked^ and forgetting the rivaW ship subsisting between them^ and thinking only how to save their countrymen^ they im-^ mediately dispatched a messenger to give the party notice of the assault that was meditated ; they at the same time sent another messenger to one of their posts^ desiring that instant succour might be sent to that belonging to the Hudson Bay Company^ which the Indians were about to plunder. The detachment arrived before the attack commenced^ and the Indians were repulsed ; but had it not been for the, tim^y assistance their rivals had afforded, the Hudson Bay people were fully persuaded that they must have fallen victims to the fury of the Indians. This single piece of service was not under- valued or forgotten by those who had been saved ; and as the Nerth-west Company was so much stronger^ and on so much better terms with the Indians in this part of the country than its rivals^ it now evidently appeared to be the interest of the latter to have the posts of the North-west Company established as near itsf own as possible. This is accordingly done for their mutual safety^ and the two companies are new on the most friendly terms^ and continue to carry on their trade close to each other. About two thousand men are employed by FUR TRADE. 329 tiic North-west Company in their posts in the upper country. Those who are stationed at the remote trading posts lead a very savage life^ but little better indeed than that of In- dians : some of them remain far up in the country for four or five years together. The head clerk or principal agent generally marries an Indian girl, the daughter of some eminent chiefs by which he gains in a peculiar manner the alFections of the whole tribe^ a matter of great importance. These marriages^, as maybe supposed^ are not considered as very bmding by the husband; but that is nothing in the opinion of an Indian chiefs who readily brings his sister or daughter to you ; at the same time he can only be appeased by blood if a person attemps to take any improper liberties with his wife. Amongst no people are the wives more chaste^ or more devoted to their hus- bands. Besides the furs and pelts conveyed down to Montreal from the north-western parts of the continent^ by means of the Utawas River^ there are large quantities also brought there across the lakes^ and down the River St. Lawrence. These are collected at the various towns and posts along the Lakes Huron^ Erie^ and Ontario^ where the trade is open to all parties^ the several posts being protected by R egular troops, at the ex pence of the govern- 330 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA : ment. Added likewise to what are thus col- lected by the agents of the Company, and of private merchants, there are considerable quan- tities brought down to Montreal for sale by traders, on their own account. Some of these traders come from parts as remote as the Illi- nois Country, bordering on the Mississippi. They ascend the Mississippi as far as Oniscons- ing River, and from that by a portage of three miles get upon Fox River, which falls into Lake Michigan. In the fall of the year, as I have before mentioned, these two rivers over- flow, and it is then sometimes practicable to pass in a light canoe from one river to the other^ without any portage whatsoever. From Lake Michigan they get upon Lake Huron, after- wards upon Lake Erie, and so on to the St. Lawrence. Before the month of September is over, the furs are all brought down to Mon- treal ; as they arrive they are immediately ship- ped^ and the vessels dispatched in October^ beyond which month it would be dangerous for them to remain in the river on account of the setting in of winter. Furs are also shipped in considerable quan- tities at Quebec, and at the town of Trois Ri- vieres. These furs are brought down the rivei*s that fall into the St. Lawrence, on the north- side^ by Indians. [ 331 ] LETTER XXIII. Voyage to Quedec down the St. Laxorence. — A Bateau preferable to a Keel Boat. — Toivn of Sorelle. — Ship-building there, — Description of Lake Sit. Pierre. — Baliscon. — Charming Scenery along the Banks of St. Lawrence. — In what respect it differs from the Scenery along any other River in America, — Canadian Houses. — Sketch of the Character ami Man- Tiers of the lower Classes of Canadians. — Their Superstition. — Anecdote. — St. Aiiguslin Cal-- vaire. — Arrive at Quebec. Quebec^ Auo-ust. WE remained is Montreal until the first day of August^ wlien we set off in a bateau for Quebec^ about one hundred and sixty miles lower down the St. Lawrence. A bateau is a particular kind of boat^ very generally used upon the large rivers and lakes in Canada. The bottom of it is perfectly flat^ and each end is built very sharp^ and exactly alike. The sides are about four feet high^ and for the con- venience of the rowers^ four or five benches are laid across-, sometimes more^, according to the length of the bateau. It is a very heavy awk- ward sort of vessel;, either for rowiog or sailing. S32 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA : but it is preferred to a boat with a keel for two very obvious reasons; firsts, because it draws less water^ at the same time that it carries a larger burthen ; and secondly^ because it is much safer on lakes or wide rivers^ where storms are frequent: a proof of this came under our observation the day of our leaving Montreal. We had reached a wide part of the river., and were sailing ah)ng with a favourable wind, when suddenly the horizon grew very dark^ and a dreadful storm arose^, accompanied with loud peals of thunder and torrents of rain. Before the sail could be taken in^ the ropes which held it were snapped in pieces^ and the waves began to dash over the sides of the bateau^ though the water had been quite smooth fi ve minutes before. It was impossible now to counteract the force of the wind with oars^ and the bateau was consequently driven on shore^ but the bottom of it being quite flat> it was carried smoothly upon the beach without sustaining any injury and the men leaping out drew it up on dry land^ where we remained out of all danger till the storm was over. A keel boat^ however^ of the same size, could not have ap- proached nearer to the shore than thirty feet> and there it would have stuck fast in the sandj, and probably have been filled with water. From being fitted up as it was^ our bateaa proved to be very pleasant conveyance : it was SORELLE. 333 one of a large size^ and over tlie widest part of it an oilcloth aw ning was thrown^ supported by hoops similar to the roof of a waggon : thus a most excellent cabin was formed-, large enough to contain half a dozen chairs and a table^, and which, at the same time that it afforded shelter from the inclemency of the weather^ was airy^ and sufficiently open to let us see all the beau- ties of the prospect on each shore to the greatest advantage. It was about eleven o'clock in the morning when we left Montreal, and at five in the afternoon we reached the town of Sorelle^ fifteen leagues distant. The current is very strong the whole way between the two places* Sorelle stands at the moiith of the river of the same name, which runs from Lake Champlaia into the St. Lawrence. It was laid out about the year 1787, and on an extensive plan, with very wide streets and a large square, but at pre- sent it contains only one hundred houses, are all very indifferent, and standing widely asunder. This is the only town on the St. Lawrence, between Montreal and Quebec, wherein Eng- lish is the predominant language. The inha- bitants consist principally of loyalists from the United States^ %vho took refuge in Canada. The chief business carried on here is that of ship-building ; there are several vessels annual! j launched from fiftv to two hundred tons bur- 8 S34 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA: then ; these are floated down to Quebec^ and there rigged. Ship-building is not carried on to so much advantage in Canada as might be imagined^ all the bolts and other articles of iron^ the blocks;, and the cordage^ being im- ported ; so that what is gained by having ex- cellent timber on the spot is lost in bringing over these different articles^ which are so bulky, from Europe. The river of Sorelle is deep at the mouthy and affords good shelter for ships from the ice^ at the breaking up of winter ; it is not navigable far beyond the town^, even in boats, on account of the rapids. The next morning we left Sorelle, beyond which place the St. Lawrence expands to a great breadth. Here it abounds with small islands, situated so closely to each other, that it is impossible to think without astonishment ^ of large vessels, like those that go to Montreal passing between them : the channel through them is very intricate. This wide part of the river is called Lac St. Pierre ; the greatest breadth of it is about four leagues and a half, and its length from the islands at the head of the lake downwards about eight leagues. From hence to Quebec the river is in no place more than tw o miles across, and in some parts it narrows to the breadth of three quarters of a mile. The tide ebbs and flows in the river within a few leagues of Lac St. Pierre ; the ^ SCENERY. 335 great expansion of the water at the lake^ and the stroog current which sets out from it, pre- vents its action higher. From Montreal as far as the town of Trois Rivieres^ which stands about four leagues below Lec St. Pierre^, the shores on each side of the St. Lawrence are very flat ; the land then begins to rise^ and on the south-east side it continues lofty the whole way down to Quebec. On the opposite side^, however^ be- low Trois Rivieres^ the banks vary consider- ably ; in some places they are higli^ in others very low^, until you approach within a few leagues of Quebec^ when they assume a bold and grand appearance on each side. The sce- nery along various parts of th@ river is very fine : it is impossible^ indeed^ but that there must be a variety of pleasing views along a noble river like the St. Lav/rence^ winding for hundreds of miles through a rich countrv, di- versified with rising grounds^ woodlands^, and cultivated plains. W hat particularly attracts the attention^ however^ in going down this river, is, the beautiful disposition of the towns and villages on its banks. Nearly all the set- tlements in Lower Canada are situated close upon the borders of the rivers, and from this circumstance the scenery along the St. Law- ranee and others differs materially ftom that along the rivers in the United States. The 336 TR ATELS THROtlGH LOWER CANADA : banks of the Hudson River^ which are moW cultivated than those of any of the other large rivers there^ are wild and desolate in compa- rison Mith those of the St. Lawrence. For several leagues below Montreal the houses stand so closely together^ that it appears as if it were but one village^ which extended the whole way. All the houses have a re^ Markably neat appearance at a distance ; and in each village^, though it be ever so small^ there is a church. The churches are kept in the neatest repair^ and most of them have spires^ covered^ according to the custom of the country^ with tin^ that, from being put on in a particular manner^ never becomes rusty *. It is pleasing beyond description to behold one of these villages opening to the view, as you sail round a point of land covered with trees, the houses in it overhanging the river, and the spires of the churches sparkling through the groves with which they are en* circled, before the rays of the setting sun. There is scarcely any part of the river^ where you pass along, for more than a league, without seeing a village and church. The second night of our voyage we landed The square plates of tin are nailed on diagonally, and the corners are carefully folded over the heads of the naiJs, so as to prevent any moisture from getting to them. EATISCON. S37 at the village of Batiscoii. It stands on the north-west side of the river^ about eighty miles below Montreal. Here the shore is very flat and marshy^, and for a considerable distance from it, the water is so shallow when the tide is out, that a bateau even^ cannot at that time come within one hundred yards of the dry ground. Lower down the river the shore is in some places extremely rocky. The first habitation we came to at Batiscon was a farm-house^ where we readily got ac- commodation for the night. The people were extremely civiL and did all in their power to serve us. A small table was quickly set out;, covered with a neat white table-cloth^ and breads milk, ^^^d butter, the best fare which the house afforded, were brought to us. These things may always be had in abundance at every farm-house ; but it is not often that you can procure meat of any sort ; in going through Canada, therefore, it ii customary for travellers to carry a provision basket with them. The houses in Lower Canada are in general well furnished with beds, all in the French style^ very large, and raised four or five feet high, with a paillasse, a mattrass, and a feather-bed. The houses for the most part are built of logs; but they are much more compact and better built than those in the United States ; VOL. I, % 338 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA: the logs are made to fit more closely toge- ther, and instead of being left rough and un- even on the outside, are planed and white- w^ashed. At the inside also the walls are generally lined with deal boards, whereas in the United States the common log- houses are left as rough within as tiiey are without. One circumstance^ however, renders the Canadian houses very disagreeable^ and that is the inattention of the inhabitants to air them occasionally by opening the windows, in consequence of which they have a close heavy smell within doors. As we travelled by land from Quebec to Montreal, we scarcely observed ten houses the whole way with the windows open^ notwithstanding that the w^ea- ther was very warm. If you ask the people why they don't let a little fresh air into their houses, their constant answer is, as it is to all questions of a similar tendency, Ce n'est pas la maniere des habitans,'' — It is not the custom of the people of the country. Some of the lower classes of the French Canadians have all the gaiety and vivacity of the people of France ; they dance, they sing, and seem determined not to give way to care ; others, to appearance, have a great deal of that sullenness and bluntness in their manners characteristic of the people of the United States ; vanity^ however^, is the ascendant fea- StJP^lRSTIflON. 339 tufe in the character of all of them, and by working upon that you may make them do what you please. Few of the men can read or write ; the little learning there is amongst the inhabitants is confined to the women : a Canadian never makes a bargain, or takes any step of importance, without consulting his wife^ whose opinion is generally abided by. Both men and women are sunk in igno- rance and superstition, and blindly devoted to their priests. The following anecdote may serve to shew how much they are so. On the evening before we reached Quebec, we stopped at the village of St. Augustin Cal- vaire, and after having strolled about for some time, returned to the farm-house where we had taken up our quarters for the night, The people had cooked some fish, that had been just caught^ while we had been w^alking about, and every thing being ready on our re- turn, we sat down to supper by the light of a lamp, which was suspended from the ceil- ing. The glimmering light, however, that it afforded, scarcely enabled us to see what was on the table ; we complained of it to the man of the house, and the lamp was in con- sequence trimmed; it was replenished with oil ; taken down and set on the table ; still the light was very bad. Sacre DieuT' ex- claimed he, but you shall not cat your fish 23 340 TRATELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA. in the dark;'' so saying, he stepped aside a small cupboard^ took out a candle^ and hav- ing lighted it, placed it beside us. All was now going on well, vv^hen the wife, who had been absent for a few minutes, suddenly re-^ turning, poi^red forth a voilej of the most terrible execrations against her poor husband for haviog presumed to have acted m he had done. Unable to answer a single word, the fellow^ stood aghast, ignorant of what he had done to offend her ; we were quite at a loss also to know what could have given rise to such a sudden storm ; the wife, however, snatching up the candle, and hastily extin- guishing it, addressed us in a plaintive tone of voice, and explained the whole affair. It was the holy candle — La chandelle benite,'' which her giddy husband had set on the table ; it had been consecrated at a neighbouring ehurch, and supposing there should be a tem- pest at any time, with thunder and lightning ever so terrible, yet if the candle were but kept burning while it lasted, the house, the barn, and every thing else belonging to it, were to be secured from all donger. If any of the family happened to be sick, the candle was to be lighted, and they were instantly to re- cover. It had been given to her that morn- ing by the priest of the village, with an assur- ♦uce that it possessed the miraculous power of ( 3^1 ) . preserving the family from liarm^ and she was confident that what he told her was true. — To have contradicted the poor woman would have been useless ; for the sake of our ears^ however, we endeavoured to pacify her, and that being accomplished, we sat down to sup- per, and e'eu made the most of our fish in tha dark. The village of St. Aug-ustin Calvaire is about five leagues from Quebec, at which last place we arrived early on the next morning, the fourth of our voyage. When the wind is fair, and the tide favourable also, it does not take more than two days to go from Montreal to Quebec. LETTER XXIV. Situcttion of the City of Quebec, — Dvbidecl into Upper and Loxver Town, — Description of each, — Great Strength of the Upper Toxvn,—* Some Observations on the Capture of Quebec by tiie English Army under General Wolfe.. — Observations on Montgomerr/'s, jind Ar- nold's Attack during the .American War, — • Census of Inhabitants of Quebec. — The Cha- teau, the Residence of the Governor. — Monastery of the Recollets.— College of the Jesuiis, — One Jesuit rernaining of great S42 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA r .dge. — His great Wealth. — His Character. — Nunneries. — Engineer's Drawing Room. — ^ State House. — Armoury. — Barracks. — Market-place. — Dogs used in Carts. — Gran- detir of the Prospects from Parts of the Up- per Toivn. — Charming Scenery of the En- vlrons, — Description of Montmorenci Water J^all. — Of La Chaudiere Water Fall. Quebec, August. THE city of Quebec is situated on a very lofty point of land, on the north-west side of the River St. Lawrence. Nearly facing it, on the opposite shore, there is another point, and between the two the river is contracted to the breadth of three quarters of a mile, but after passing through this strait it expands to the breadth of five or six miles, takmg a great sweep behind that point whereon Quebec stands. The city derives its name from the word Quebec or Qtiebeio, which signifies in the A)gonquin toogue, a sudden contraction of a river. The wide part of the river im- mediately before the town, is called The Bason ; and it is sufficiently deep and spacious to float upwards of one hundred sail of the line. Quebec is divided into two parts ; the upper town, situated on a rock of limestone. On the top of the point ; and the lower towo^ QUEBEC. 345 feuilt round tlie bottom of the point, close to the water. The rock whereon the upper tow n stands^ in some places towards the water rises nearly perpendicularly, so as to be totally inaccessible ; in other places it is not so steep but that there is a communication between the two towns, by means of streets winding up the side of it, though even here the ascent is so great that there are long flights of stairs at one side of the streets for the acccommoda- tion of foot passengers. The lower town lies very much exposed to an enemy, being defended merely by a small battery towards the bason, which at the time of high tides is nearly on a level with the water, and by barriers towards the river, in which guns may be planted when there is any danger of an attack. The upper town, however, is a place of im- mense strength. Towards the water it is so strongly guarded by nature, that it is found unnecessary to have more than very slight w alls ; and in some particular places, where ? the rock is inaccessible, are no walls at all. There are several redoubts and batteries how- ever here. The principal battery, which points towards the bason, consists of twenty- two twenty -four pounders, two French thirty-six pounders, aiid two large iron mor- tars ; this battery is flanked by another of six 544 TRAVELS TIIROmTH LOWER CANADA : guns, that commands the, passes from tlM5 lower town. On the land side, the town owes its strength solely to the hand of art, and here the forti- fications are stn|>endous. Considerable addi-^ tions and improvements have been made to them since the place has been in the possession of Great Britain ; but even at the time wh^n it belonsed to France, the works were so strong, that had it not been for the conduct of M. de Montcalm, the French general, it is ahuost doobtful whetlier the genius of the im- mortal Wolfe himself woiild not have been baftlrd in attempting to reduce it. Had M. de Montcalm, when the first intel- ligeEce of the British army's having ascend- ed the Heights of Abraham was carried to him, instead of disbelieviog the account, and lai>ghing at it as a thing impossible, marched immediately to the attack, without giving General Wolfe time to form his men ; or had he^ when the, account was confirmed of t^e enemy's procedure, and of their having fornied on the plain., wailed for a large division c^f his troops, whoF-e station was below the town, and who might have joined him in two hours, instead of marching out to give General V/oIfe battle with the troops he had with him at the time, the fate of the day might luve turned out very differently ; or had he^ GENERAL WOLFE. S45 instead of hazarding a batfle at all, retired within the walls of the city and defended it, the place was so strong that there is reason to think it might have held out irntil the ap- proach of winter, when the British ships must have quitted the river, and General Wolfe would consequentlj have been under the ne- cessity of raising the siege. General Wolfe thought it a vain attempt to make an asi^ault on the side of the town ^hich lies towards the water, where the rock is so steep, and so easily defended ; his object was to get behind it, and to carry on (he at- tack on the land side, where there is an ex- tensive plain adjoining the town, and not a great deal lower than the highest part of the point. In order to do so, he first of all at- tempted to land his troops some miles below the town, near the Falis of Montmorenci. Here the banks of the river are by no means go difficult of ascent as above the town ; but they were defended by a large divisi)n of the Fi'ench forces, which had thrown up several strong redoubts, and, in attempting to land, W"04-fie was repulsed with loss. Above Quebec, the banks of tl.c river are extremely high, and so steep at the sao^e time, that by the French they were deemed inacces- sible. Foiled, however, in his first attempt to get on shore. General WHi)lfe formed iht 346 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA : bold design of ascending to the top of these banks^ commonly called the Heights of Abra- ham. To prepare the Avay for it^ possession -^vas taken of Point Levi^ the point situated opposite to that on which Quebec stands^, and from thence a heavy bombardment was com- menced on the town;, in order to deceive the enemy. In the mean time boats were pre- pared ; the troops embarked; they passed the town with muffled oars^ in the nighty, unob- served;, and landed at a cove^, about two miles above. The soldiers clambered up the heights with great difficulty, and the guns were hauled up by means of ropes and pulleys fixed round the trees, with which the banks are €Over€d from top to bottom. At the top the plain commences, and extends close under the w alls of the city : here it was that the memo- rable battle was fought, in which General Wolfe unhappily perished, at the very moment when all his noble exertions were about to be crowned with that success which they so emi- nently deserved. The spot where the il- lustrious hero breathed his last is marked with a large stone, on which a true meridional line is drawn. Notwithstanding that the great Wolfe found it such a very difficult task to get pos- session of Quebec, andp that it has been ren- dered so much stronger since his time, yet GENERAL ARNOLD. 34T the people of the United States confidently imagine, at this day, that if there were a rup- ture with Great Britain^ they need only send an army thither, and the place must fall into their hands immediately. Arnold; after his return from the expedition against the place, under Montgomery, in the year 1775, used frequently to declare, that if he had not been wounded he should certainly have carried it. But however that expedition may be admired for its great boldness, it was, in reality, far from being so nearly attended with success as the vanity of Arnold has led his countrymen to imagine. All thoughts of taking the city by a regular siege were abandoned by the Americans, when they came before it ; it was only by attempting to storm it at an unexpected hour that they saw any probability of wresting it from the British. The night of the thirty- first of December was accordingly fixed upon, and the city was attacked at the same moment in three places. But although the garrison were completely surprised, and the greater part of the rampart guns had been dismounted, and laid up for the winter, during which sea- son it was thought impossible for an army to make an atta k so vigorous that cannon vvould be wanting to repel it, yet the Ameri- ccins were at once baffled in their attcmi)t. 348 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA ! Arnold^ in endeavouring to force St. John's Gate, Yvhich leads out on the back part of the town^ not far from the phiins of Abraham, was wounded, and repulsed with great loss. Montgomery surprised the guard of the first barrier, at one end of the lower town, and passed it ; but at the second he was shot, and his men w^ere driven back. The third di- vision of the Americans entered the lower town in another quarter, w hich/ as I have be- fore said, lies very much exposed, by passing over the ice : they remained there for a day or two, and during that time they set fire to some buildings, amongst which was one of the re- ligious houses ; but they w ere finally dislodged witiiout much difficulty. The two divisions under Montgomery and Arnold w ere repulsed with a mere handful of men ; the different detachments, sent down from the upper town against the former, did not all together amount, ^it is said, to two hundred men. Arnolds attack was the maddest possibk ; for St. John's Gate, and the walls adjoining, are stupendous, and a person need but see them to con- vinced that any attempt to storm them must be fruitless without the aid of heavy artillery, which the Americans had not. Independant of what it owes to its fort ifi- cations, and situation on the top of a rock. : CITADEL. 349 Quebec is Indebted for much of its strength to the severitj^ and great length of the winter, as in that season it is v/holiy impracticable for a besieging army either to carry on any works or blockade the town. It requires about five thousand sokliers to man the works at Quebec completely. A large garrison is always kept in it, and abund- ance of stores of every description. The troops are lodged partly in barracks, and partly in blockhouses near Cape Diamond, which is the most elevated part of the point, and is reckoned to be upwards of one thousand feet above the level of the river. The Cape is strongly fortified, and may be considered as the citadel of Quebec ; it commands the town in every direction, and also the plains at the outside of the walls. The evening and morn- ing guns, and all salutes and signals, are fired from hence. Notwithstanding the great height of the rock above the river, v/ater may readily be had even at the very top of it, by sinking wells of a moderate depth, and in some par- ticular places, at the sides of the rock, it gushe» out in large streams. The water is of a very good quality. No census has been lately taken of the num- ber of houses and iBhabitants in Quebec ; but it is supposed that, including the upper and lower tcwns and suburbs, there are at least 530 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA : two thousand dwellings : at the rate of six therefore to each house^ the number of in- habitants would amount to twelve thousand. About tw^o-thirds of the inhabitants are of French extraction. The society in Quebec is agreeable^ and very extensive for a place of the sizC:, owing to its being the capital of the lower province^ and therefore the residence of the governor^, different civil oiFicers. principal lawyers^ &c. &c. The large garrison con- stantly kept in it makes the place appear very gay and lively. The lower town of Quebec ls mosth in- habited by the traders who are concerned with the shipping, and it is a very disagreeable place. The streets are narrov^ and dirty^ and owing to the great height of the houses in most of them , the air is much confined ; in the streets next to the water also^ there is oftentimes an intoler- able stench from the shore w hen the tide is out. The upper town^ on the contrary^ is extremely agreeable : from its elevated situation the air is as pure as possible, and the inhabitants are never oppressed with heat in summer ; it is far, however^ from being well laid out^, the streets being narrow and very irregular. The houses are for the most part built of stone^ and except a few^, erected of late 3 ears^ smaii^ ^gb^ and inconvenient. governor's CHATEAU. 351 The chateaU;, wherein the g'overnor resides^, is a phiia building of common stone^ situated in an open place^ the houses round which^ form three sides of an oblong square. It consists of two parts. The eld and the new are separated from each other by a spacious court. The former stands just on the Yerge of an inaccessi- ble part of the rock ; behind it^ on the outside^ there is a long gallery, from whence^ if a peb- ^ ble were let drop, it would fall at least sixty feet perpendicularly. This old part is chiefly taken up with the public offices, and all the apartments in it are small and ill contrived ; but in the new part, which stands in front of the other, facing the square, they are spacious, and tolerably well finished, but none of them can be called elegant. This part is inhabited by the governor's family. The chateau is built with- out any regularity of design, neither the old r.or the new part having even an uniform front. It is not a place of strength, as commonly re- presented. In the garden adjoining to it is merely a parapet wall along the edge of the rock, with embrasures, in which a few small guns are planted, commanding a part of the lower town. Every evening during summer, when the weather is fine, one of the regiments of the garrison parades in the open place before the chateau, and the band plays for an hour or two^ at which time the place becomes the re- 352 TRAYELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA : 3ort of numbers of the most geuteel people of the town, and has a very gay appearance. Opposite to the chateau there is a monastery belonging to the Recollets or Franciscan friars ; a very few only of the order are now left Con- tiguous to this building is the college belong- ing to the Jesuits, whose numbers have dimi- nished even still faster than that of the Recol- lets; One old man alone of the brotherhood is left, and in him are centered the immense pos- sessions of thiit once powerful body in Canada, bringing in a yearly revenue of 10,(]00/. ster- ling. This old man, whose lot it has been to outlive all the rest of the order, is by birth a Swiss : in his youth he was no mare than a porler to the college, hut having some merit he was taken notice of^ promoted to a higher situation^ and in the end created a lay brother. Though a very old man he is extremely healthy; he possesses an amiable disposition, and is much beloved on account of the excellent use he makes of his large fortune, which is chiefly em- ployed in charitable purposes. On his death the property falls to the crown. Tlie nunneries are three in number^ and as there is no restriction upon the female religious orders, they are all well filled. The largest of them, called L'Hopital General, stands in the suburbs, outside of the walls ; another, of the order of St. Urside, is not far distant from the chateau. iO QUEBEC MARKET* 353 The engineer's drawing room^ in which are kept a variety of models^ together with plans of the fortifications of Quebec and other for- tresses in Canada, is an old building, near the principal battery. Adjoining thereto stands the house where the legislative council and assembly of representatives meet, which is also ail old building, that has been plainly fitted up to accommodate the legislature. The armoury is situated near the artillery barrack, in another part of the town. About ten thousand stand of arms are kept in it, ar- ranged in a similar manner with the arms in the Tower of London, but, if possible, with greater neatness and more fancy. The artillery barracks are capable of con- taining about five hundred m«n, but the prin- cipal barracks are calculated to contain a much larger number ; they stand in the market place, not far distant from the square in which the chateau is situated, but more in the heart of the town. The market of Quebec is extremely well supplied with provisions of every kind, which may be purchased at a much more moderate price than in any town I visited in the United States. It is a matter of curiosity to a stranger to see the number of dogs yoked in little carts, that are brought into this market by the people who attend it. The Canadian dogs are found ex- VOL, I. A A 3554 TRAA'ELS TimOUGH LOWER CANADA: tr^itiely useful in drawing burthens^ and there k scarcely a family in Quebec or Montreal, that does not keep one or more of them for that purpose. They are somewhat similar to the Newfoundland breeds but broader across the loing^ afld have shorter and thicker legs; general they are handsome^ and wonderfully ilocile and sagacious ; their strength is prodi- gious ; I haYe seen a single dog, in more than one instance;, draw a man for a considerable distance that could not weigh less than ten stone. People, during the winter season, fre- quently perfiorm long journeys on the snow with half a dozen or more of these animals yoked in a cariole or sledge. I must not conclude this letter without making mention of the scenery that is exhibited to the viev/, from various parts of the upper town of Quebec, which, for its grandeur, its beauty, and its diversity, surpasses all that I have Jiitherto seen in America, or indeed in any other part of the globe. In the variegated expanse that is laid open before you, stupendous rocks, immense rivers, trackless forests and cultivated pl'ains, mountains, lakes, towns, and villages, in turn strike the attention, and the senses are almost bewildered in contemplating the vast- ness of the scene. Nature is here seen on the grandest scale and it is scarcely possible for the imagination to paint to itself any thing more SUBLIME VIEWS. 355 sublime tliaii are the several prospects presented to the sight of the delighted spectator. From Cape Diamond^ situated one thousand feet above the level of the river^ and the loftiest part of the rock on which the city is built, the pros- pect is considered hy many as superior to that from any other spot. A greater extent of country opens upon you^ and the eye is here enabled to take in more at once, than at any other place ; but tome it appears, that the view from the cape is by no means so fine as that^ for instance, from the battery ; for in surveying the different objects below you from such a stupendous height, their magnitude is in a great measure lost, and it seems as if you were looking at a draft of the country more than at the country itself It is the upper battery that I allude to, facingr the bason, and is about three hundred feet above the level of the water. Here, if you stand but a few yards from the edge of the precipice, you may look down at once upon the river, the vessels upon which, as they f!?ail up to the wharfs before the lower town, appear as if they were coming under your very feet. The river itself, which is betv/een five and six miles wide, and visible far as the distant end of the island of Orleans, where it loses itself amidst the mountains that bound it on each side, is one of the most beautiful objects in nature, and on a fine still summer's aa3 356 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWEB CANADA I evening it often wears the appearance of a vast mirror, where the varied rich tints ofthesky^ as well as the images of the difterent objects of the banks, are seen reflected with inconceivable lustre. The southern bank of the river^ in- dented fancifully with bays and promontories, remains nearly in a state of nature^ cloathed with lofty trees ; but the opposite shore is thickly covered with houses^ extending as along other parts of the river already men- tioned^ in one uninterrupted village, seemingly, as far as the eye can reach. On this side the prospect is terminated by an extensive range of mountains^ the flat lands situated between them and the villages on the banks notbeing visible to a spectator at Quebec^ it seems as if the moun« tains rose directly out of the water, and the houses were built on their steep and rugged sides. Beautiful as the environs of the city appear when seen at a distance, they do not appear less so on a more close inspection ; and in pass- ing through them the eye is entertained with a most pleasing variety of fine landscapes, whilst the mind is equally gratified with the appear- ance of content and happiness that reigns in the countenances of the inhabitants. Indeed, if a country as fruitful as it is picturesque, a genial and healthy climate, and a tolerable share of civil and religious liberty, can make BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 357 people happy, none ought to appear more so than the Canadians^ during this delightful sea- son of the year. Before I dismiss this subject entirely, I must give you a brief account of two scenes in the vicinity of Quebec, more particularly deserv- ing of attention than any others. The one is the Fall of the River Montmorenci ; the other, that of the Chaudiere. The former stream runs into the St. Lawrence, about seven miles below Quebec ; the latter joins the same river nearly at an equal distance above the city. The Montmorenci River runs in a very ir* regular course, through a wild and thickly wooded country, over a bed of broken rocks, till it comes to the brink of a precipice, down which it descends in one uninterrupted and nearly perpendicular fall of two hundred and forty feet. The stream of water in this river, except at the time of floods, is but scanty, but being broken into foam by rushing wath such rapidity as it does over the rocks at the top of the precipice, it is thereby much dilated, and in its fall appears to be a sheet of water of no inconsiderable magnitude. The breadth of the river at top, from bank to bank> is about fifty feet only. In its fall, the water has the exact appearance of snow, as when thrown in heaps from the roof of a house, and it seemmgly dc- 358 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA : scends with a very slow motion. The spra? at the bottom is considerable, and when the suil happens to shine bright in the middle of the day, the prismatic colours are exhibited in it in all their variety and lustre. At the bottom of the precipice the water is confined in a sort of bason^ as it were, by a mass of rock, ex- tending nearly across the fall,' and out of this it flovv^s with a gentle current to the St. Law- rence, which is about three hundred yard^ distant. The banks of the Montmorenci, be- low the precipice, are nearly perpendicular on one side, and on both inaccessible, so that if a person be desirous of getting to the bottom of the fall, he must descend down the banks of the St. Lawrence, and walk along the margin of that river till he comes to the chasm through which the Montmorenci flows. To a person sailing along the St. Lawrence, past the mouth of the chasm, the fall appears in great beauty. General Haldimand, formerly governor of Canada, was so much delighted with this ca- taract^ that he built a dwelling house close to it, from the parlour windows of which it is seen in a very advantageous point of view. In front of the house is a neat lawn, that runs down the whole way to the St. Lawrence, and in various parts of it little summer-houses have been erected, each of which commands a view of the fall. There is also a summer house. GRAND FALLS. 359 situated neailj at the top of tbe hW, baiigtug directly over the precipice;, so that if a buiLet were dropped from the ^viiidow, it.^vouJd dic- sceiid ill a perpendicular line at loast two hun- dred feet. This house is supported by large beams of timber, fixed into the sides of the chasm, and in order to get to it you haye to pass over several flights of steps, and one or two wooden, galleries, which are supported in the game manner. The view from hence is tre- mendously grand. It is said, that the beams whereon this little edifice is erected are in a state of decay, and many persoijs are fearful of entering into it, lest they shou id give way; but being ignorant of the danger, if indeed there was any, our whole party ventured into it at once, and staid there a considerable time, not- withstanding its tremulous motion at every step we trod. That the beams cannot last for ever is certain; it would be a wise mea^nre, therefore, to have the^^n remored or repaired in proper time, for as long as thpy ijenjain stand- ing, persons will be found that will venture into the unsteady fabrick they support, and should they give way at a moment when any persons are in it, the catastrophe must inevi- tably be fatal. The fall in the River Chaudiere is not half the height of that of the Montmorenci, but then it is no less than two hundred and fifty 360 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA : feet in breadth. The scenery round this ca- taract is much superior in every respect to that in the neighbourhood of the Montmorencic Contiguous to the latter there are few trees of any great magnitude^ and nothing is near it to relieve the eye ; you have the falL and nought but the fallj to contemplate. The banks of La Chaudiere^ on the contrary, are covered with trees of the largest growth, and amidst the piles of broken rocks, which lie scattered about the place, you have some of the wildest and most romantic views imaginable. As for the fall itself, its grandeur varies with the sea- son. When the river is full, a body of water comes rushing over the rocks of the preci- pice that astonishes the beholder ; but in dry weather, and indeed during the greater part of the summer, we may say, the quantity of wa- ter is but trifling. At this season there are few but what would prefer the falls of the Montmorenci River, and I am tempted to imagine that, upon the whole, the generality of people would give it the preference at all times. ( 361 ) LETTER XXV. Of the Constitution, Government, Laios, and Religion of the Provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, — Estimate of the Expences of the Civil List, of the Military EstaUisliment, and the Presents to the Lidians. — Salaries of cer- tain Officers of the Crown. — Imports and Exports. — Taxes. Quebec. FROM the time that Canada was ceded io Great Britain until the year 1774, X\\e inter- nal affairs of the province were regulated by the ordinance of the governor alone. In pur- suance of the Quebec Bill, which was then passed, a legislative council was appointed by his Majesty in the country ; the number of members was limited to twenty-three. This council had full power to make all such ordi- nances and regulations as were thought expe- dient for the welfare of the province ; but it was prohibited from levying any taxes, except for the purpose of making roads, repairing public buildings, or the like. Every ordinance was to be laid before the governor, for his Majesty's approbation, within six months from the time it was passed, and no ordinance, im- posing a greater punishment on any person or 362 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA : persons than a fine, or imprisonment for three months, was valid without his Majesty's assent^ signified to the council bj the governor. Thus were the affairs of the province regu- lated until the year 1791, when an act was passed in the British parliament, repealing so much of the Quebec Bill as related to the ap- pointment of a council, and to the powers that had been granted to it ; and which established the present form of government. The country, at the same time, was divided into two distinct provinces ; the province of Lower Canada, and the province of Upper Canada. The former is the eastern part of the old province of Canada ; the latter, the w estern part, situated on the northern sides of the great lakes and rivers through which the boundary line runs that separates the British territories from those of the United States. The twcf provinces are divided from each other bj a line, which runs norths 24^ west, commencing at Point au Baudet, in that part of the river St. Lawrence called Lake Francis, and continu- ing on from thence to tlie Utawas or Grand River. The city of Quebec is the capital of the lower province, as the tow^n of Niagara is of the upper one. The executive power in each province is vested in the governor, who has for his advice an executive council appointed bj his Ma CONSTITUTION OF CANADA. 3G3 jesty. The legislative power of each province is vested in the governor^ a legislative coun- cil^ and an assembly of the representatives of the people. Their acts^ however, are subject to the controiil of his majesty, and in some particular cases to the controul of the British parliament. Bills are passed in the council and in the assembly in a form somewhat similar to that in which bills are carried through the British houses of parliament ; they are then laid before the governor, who gives or withholds his assent, or reserves them for his Majesty's pleasure. Such bills as he assents to are put in force immediately ; but he is bound to transmit a true copy of them to the King, who in council may declare his disallowance of them within two years from the time of their being receiv- ed, in which case they become void. Such as are reserved for his Majesty's assent are not to be put in force until that is re- ceived. Moreover, every act of the assembly and council, which goes to repeal or vary the laws or regulations that were in existence at the time the present constitution was established in the country respecting tythes; the appro- priation of land for toe support of a protestant clergy ; the constituting and endowing of par- sonages or rectories; the right of presentation 5 364 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA : to the same, and the manner in which the in- cumbents shall hold them ; the enjoyment and exercise of any form or mode of w orship ; the imposing of any burdens and disqualifications on account of the same: the rights of the clergy to recover their accustomed dues ; the imposing or granting of any farther due or emoluments to any ecclesiastics ; the establish- ment and discipline of the church of England ; the King's prerogative,, touching the granting of waste lands of the crown w ithin the pro- vince; every such act, before it receives the royal assent, must be laid before both houses of parliament in Great Britain, and the King must not give his assent thereto until thirty days after the same has been laid before par- liament ; and in case either house of parlia- ment presents an address to the King to with- hold his assent to anv such act or acts, it can- not be given* By an act passed in the eighteenth year of his present Majesty's reign, the British parlia- ment has also the power of making any re- gulations which may be found expedient, re- specting the commerce and navigation of the province, and also of imposing import and ex- port duties; but all such duties are to be ap- plied solely to the use of the province, and in such a manner only as the laws made in the council and assembly direct. LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL. 365 The legislative council of Lower Canada consists of fifteen members; that of Upper Canada of seven. The number of the mem- bers in each province must never be less than this ; but it may be increased whenever his Majesty thinks fit. The counsellors are appointed for life^ by an instrument under the greal seal of the province, signed by the governor, who is in- vested with powers for that purpose by the King. No person can be a counsellor who is not twenty-one years of age^ nor any one who is not a natural-born subject, or who has not been naturalized according to act of par- liament. Whenever his Majesty thinks proper, he may confer on any persons hereditary titles of honour, wdth a right annexed to them of being summoned to sit in this council, which right the heir may claim at the age of twenty-one ; the right, however, cannot be acknowledged if the heir has been absent from the province without leave of his Majesty^ signified to the council by the governor, for four years toge- ther, between the time of his succeeding to the right and the time of his demanding it. Tiie right is forfeited also, if the heir takes an oath of allegiance to any foreign power be- fore he demands it, unless his Majesty, by S66 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA : an instrument under the great seal of the pro- vince^ should decree to the contrary. If a counsellor^ after having taken his seat, absent himself from the province for two years Successively^ without leave from his Majesty, signified to the council by the governor^, his iseat is also thereby vacated. ' AH hereditary rights, however, of sitting in council, so forfeited, are only to be suspended during the life of the defaulters, and on their death they descend with the titles to the next heirs In cases of treason,^ both the title and right of sitting in the council are extinguished. All questions concerning the right of being summoned to the council are to be determined by the council ; but an appeal may be had from their decision to his Majesty in his parliament of Great Britain. The governor has the power of appointing and removing the speaker of the council. The assembly of Lower Canada consists of fifty members, and that of Upper Canada of sixteen ; neither assembly is ever to consist of a less number. The members for districts^ circles, or coun- * No hereditary titles, with this right annexed, have yet been conferred on any persons in Canada by his Britannic Majesty, THE ASSEMBLY. 367 tlesy are cliosea bja majority of the votes of such persons as are possessed of lands or tene- ments in freehold^ in fief, in boture, or by certificate derived under the authority of the governor and council of Quebec, 6f the yearly value of forty shillings, clear of all rents^ charges, &g. The members for towns or townships are chosen by a majority of the votes of such persons as possess houses and lands for their own use, of the year!)- value of five pounds sterling*, or as have resided in the town or township for one year, and paid a rent for a house during the time, at the rate of ten pounds yearly. No person is eligible to serve as a member of the assembly, who is a member of the legis- lative council, or a minister, priest, ecclesi- astic, or religious personage of the church of England, Rome, or of any other church. No person is qualified to vote or serve, who is not twenty-one years of age ; nor any per- son, not a natural-born subject^ or who has not been naturalized, either by law or conquest ; nor any one who has been attainted of treason in any court in his Majesty's dominions, or who has been disqualified by an act of assem- bly and council. Every voter, if called upon, most take an oath, either in French or English, that he i* of age; that he is qualified to vote according 558 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA : to law ; and that he has not voted before at that election. The governor has the power of appointing the place of session, and of calling together, of proroguing, and of dissolving the assembly. The assembly is not to last longer than four years, but it may be dissolved sooner. The governor is bound to call it at least once in each year. The oath of a member, on taking his seat, is comprised in a few words: he promises to bear true allegiance to the King, as lawful sovereign of Great Britain, and the province of Canada dependant upon it ; to defend him against all traitorous conspiracies and attempts against his person; and to make known to him all such conspiracies and attempts^ which he may at any time be acquainted with ; all which he promises without mental evasion, reservation, or equivocation, at the same time renouncing all pardons and dispensations from any person or power whatsoever. The governors of the two provinces are totally independant of each other in their civil capacity ; in military affairs, the governor of the lower province takes precedence, as he is usually created captain-general of his Majesty's forces in North America. The present system of judicature in each province was established by the Quebec Bill QUEBEC BILL. 369 of 1774. By this bill it was enacted^ that all persons in the country should be entitled to hold their lands or possessions in the same manner as before the conquest, according to the laws and usages then existing in Canada ; and that all controversies relative to property or civil rights should also be determined by the same laws and usages. These old laws and usageS;. however, were not to extend to the Unds which might thereafter be granted by his Britannic Majesty in frea and common socage : here English laws were to be in full force ; so that the * English inhabitants, who have settled for the most part on new lands, are not subject to the controul of these old French laws, that were existing in Canada when the country wa^ conquered; except a dispute concerning pro- perty or civil rights should arise between any of them and the French inhabitants, in which case the matter is to be determined by the French laws. Every friend to civil liberty would wish to see these laws abolished, for they weigh very unequally in favour of the rich and of the poor; but as long as the French inha- bitants remain so wedded as they are at pre- sent to old customs, and so very ignorant, there ^ I must observe here once for all, that by English inhabi- tants I mean all those whose native language is English, ia contradistinction to the Canadians of French extraction, who ^ universally speak the Iiiench language, and uq other, VOL. I. ' B B 370 TRAVELS THROUGH LOM'ER CANADA I is little hope of seeing any alteration of this na- ture take place. At the same time that the French laws were suffered by the Quebec bill ^ to exist, in order to conciliate the affections of the French inhabitants^ who were attached to them^ the criminal Uw of Enghmd was estd-* blished throughout every part of the country ; and this was one of the happiest circum- stances/' as the xibbe Raynal observes;, that Canada could experience ; as deliberate, ra- tional;, public trials took place of the impe- netrable mysterious transactions of a cruel inquisition ; and as a tribunal, that had theretofore been dreadful and sanguinary, was filled with humane judges, more disposed to acknowledge innocence than to suppose cri- minality,'' The governor, the lieutenant-governor, or the person administering the government, the members of the executive council, the chief justice of the province, and the judges of the court of king's bench, or any five of them, form a court of appeal, the judges however except- ed of that district from whence the appeal is made. From the decision of this court an ap~ peal may be had in certain cases to the Ring ia council. Every religion is tolerated, in the fullest ex- . tent of the word, in both provinces ; and no disqualifications are imposed on any persons on TOLERATION. S7l 2i<:^count of their religious opinions. The Ro-* man Catholic religion is that of a great majo- rity of the inhabitants ; and by the Quebec bill of 1774;, the ecclesiastics of that persuasion are empowered by law to recover all thedueswhich^ previous to that period^ they were accustomed to receive^ as well as tithes^, that is> from the Roman Catholic inhabitants ; but they cannot exact any dues or tithes from Protestants^ or off lands held by Protestants^ although formerly such lands might have been subjected to dues and tithes for the support of the Roman Catho- lic church. The dues and tithes from off these lands are s^tiil, however^ to be paid; but they are to be paid to persons appointed by the go- vernor, and the amount of them is to be reserved, in the hands of his Majesty's receiver general, for the support of the protestant clergy ac* tuaily residing in the province. By the act of the year 1791, also, it was or- dained, that the governor should allot out of all lands belonging to the crown, which should be granted after that period, one-seventh for the benefit of a Protestant clergy, to be solely ap-- plicable to their use ; and all such allotments must be particularly specified in every grant of waste lands, otherwise the grant is void. With the advice of (be executive council, the governor is authorized to constitute or erect parsonages or rectories, and to endow them out 372 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA : of these ^ippropriationSj and to present incum- bents to tiiem^ ordained according to the rites of the church of England ; which incumbents are to perform the same duties, and to hold their parsonages or rectories in the same man - ner as incumbents of the church of England do in that country. The clergy of the church of England^ in both provinces, consists at present of twelve persons only^ including the bishop of Quebec ; that of the church of Rome^ however^, consists of no less than one hundred and twenty-six ; viz. a bishop who takes his title from Quebec^ his coadjuteur elu/' who is bishop of Canathe, three vicars general^ and one hundred and sixteen curates and missionaries, all of whom are resident in the lower province, ex- cept five curates and missionaries. The number of the dissenting clergy, in both provinces, is considerably smaller, than that of the clergy of the church of England. Theexpences of the civil list in Lower Ca- nada are estimated at 20,000/. sterling per an- num^ one half of which is defrayed by Great Britain, and the remainder by the province, out of the duties paid on the importation of certain articles. The expence of the civil list in Upper Canada is considerably less; perhaps not so much as a fourth of that of the low er province. The military establishment in both provinces^ PRESENTS AND SALARIES. 373 together with the repairs of fortifications^ &c. are computed to cost Great Britain annually 100,000/. sterling. The presents distributed amongst the In- dians, and the salaries paid to the different .of- ficers in the Indian department^ are estimated at 100,000/. sterling more, annually. Amongst the officers in the Indian depart^ ment are, superintendants general, deputy su- perintendants, inspector general, deputy inspec- tors general, secretaries, assistant secretaries, storekeepers, clerks, agents, irterpreters, issuers of provisions, surgeons, gunsmiths, &c. &c. &c. most of whom, in the lower province, have now sinecure places, as there are but few Indians in the country ; but in the upper province they have active service to perform. • Of the policy of issuing presents to such a large amount amongst the Indians, more will be said in the afterpart of this work. The following is a statement of some of the salaries paid to the officers of government in Lower Canada. Governor general - - - 3,000 Lieutenant governor - - - L500 Executive counsellors, each - 100 Attorney general - - - 300 Solicitor general - - - 200 Secretary and register to the province 400 374 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA t Clerk of the court or appeals, witii lire wood and stationary 120 Secretary to the governor French secretary to the governor, and translator to the council Chiei justice ot i^uebec, who is chier justice of the province 1/200 Chief justice of Montreal Chier justice oi ihree Kivers Keceiver general 400 burveyor general of lands Deputy, and allowance lor an omca 150 Purveyor of woods 200 Grand voyer of Quebec lUU Grand voyer of Montreal 100 Grand voyer of Three Rivers t Superintendant of provincial post houses ^ r- T 1 AA Clerk of the terraro of the king^s do- main r- OA Clerk of tne cfov/n 100 Inspector oi police at Quebec 100 Inspector of police at Montreal 100 tour missionaries to Indians^ e^ch 50 One missionary to Indian^ 4j bchoolma&ter at Quebec 100 Schoolmaster at Montreal 50 Schoolmaster at Carlisle, Bay de Cha- l^urs Import duties. 375 Overseers, to prevent fires at ^Quebec, and to sweep the chiinueys of tho poor - - 60 Salary of the bishop of Quebec^ who is bishop of both provinces - 2,000 The pensions, between January 1794 and Ja- nuary 1795, amounted to 1,782/. 6^. Id. A Statement of the Articles subject to Duty on Importation into Canada, and of the Duties payable thereon. s, d. Brandy and other spirits, the manufac- ture of Great Britain, per gallon 3 Rum and other spirits, imported from the colonies in the West Indies, per gallon 6 Brandy and spirits of foreign manufacture imported from Great Britain, per gallon - - ^ 10 Additional duty on the same, per gallon 0 3 Rum or spirits manufactured in the United States, per gg^llon - 10 Molasses and Syrups imported in British shipping, per gallon - - 3 Additional duty, per gallon - 3 Molasses or Syrups legally imported in jpther thajji British shipping, per gallon 6 375 TRA% ELS THROUGH LOWEtl CANADA : Additional duty, per gallon - 3^ Madeira wine^, per gallon ^ 6 Other wine - - 3 N. B. Wine can be imported directly from Madeira, or from any of the Afri- can islands, into Canada ; but no Euro- pean wine or brandy can be imported, except through England. Loaf or lump sugar, per lb. - 1 Muscovado or clayed sugar - - — Coffee, per lb. - - 2 Leaf tobacco, per lb. ^ - 2 Playing cards, per pack ^ 7 2 Salt, the minot - - - - 4 N. B. The minot is a measure commonly used in Canada, which is to the Winchester bushel, as 100 is to 108,T65. The imports into Canada consist of all tlie various articles which a young country, that does not manufacture much for its own use, can be supposed to stand in need of; such as earth- enware, hardware, and houshold furniture^ except of the coarser kinds ; woollen and linerj cloths, haberdashery, hosiery, &c. paper, sta- tionary, leather and manufactures of leather, groceries, wines, spirits, Weat Indian produce^ j&p &c. ; cordage of every description, and SOIL AND MATSUFACTURES. 377 Qwen the coarser manufactures of iron^ are also imported. The soil of the country is well adapted to the growth of hemp, and great pains have been taken to introduce the culture of it. Hand-- hills, explaining the manner in which it can be raised to the best advantage, have been as- siduously circulated amongst the farmers, and posted up at all the public houses. It is a dif- ficult matter, however^ to put the French Cana- dians out of their old ways, so that very little hemp has been raised in consequence of the pains that have been thus taken ; and it is not propable that much \^ill be raised for a con- siderable time to come. Iron ore has been discovered in various parts of the country ; but the works for the smelting and manufacturing of it have been erected at one place only in the neighbourhood of Trois Rivieres. These works were erected by the king of France some time before the conquest : they are now the property of the British go- vernment, and are rented out to the persons who hold them at present. When the lease expires, which will be the case about the year 1800, it is thought that no one will be found to carry on the works, as the bank of ore., from whence they are supplied, is nearly exhausted. The works consist of a forge and a foundry : iron stoves are the principal articles manufactured in the SIS TRAITELS TimOUGH LOWER CANADA. latter ; bat they are not so much esteemed as those from England. . Domestic manufactures are carried on in most part of Canada^ consisting of linen and of coarse woollen cloths ; but by far the greater part of these articles used in the country is imported from Crreat Britain. The exports from Canada consist of furs and pelts in immense quantities ; of wheat, flour> flax-seed, pot-ash, timber, staves, and lumber of all sorts ; dried fish, oil, ginseng, and va- rious medicinal drugs. The trade between Canada and Great Brir tain employs, it is said, about seven thousaucJl tons of shipping anmialiy. ( 379 ) LETTER XXVL Of the Soil and Productions of Lower Canada. ^ — Observations on the Manufacture of Sugar from the Maj^le-trce. — Of the Climate of Lower Canada. — Amusements of People of all Descriptions during Winter. --^Cariolcs. — Planner of guarding against the Cold. — Grent Hardiness of the Horses, — State of the River St. Lawrence on the Dissolution of Winter 4 — Rapid Progress of Vegetation during Spring. ' — AgneaUeness of the Sum mer and Autumn Seasons, Quebec. THE eastern part of Lower Canada, be- tween Quebec and the gulph of St. Lawrence, is mountainous; between Quebec and the mouth of the Utawas River also a few scatter- ed mountains are to be met with ; but hi^^her up the River St. Lawrence the face of the coun- try is flat. The soij, except where small tracts of stony and sandy land intervene, consists principally of a loose dark coloured earth, and of the depth of ten or twelve inches, below which there is a bed of cold clay. This earth towards the sur- face is extremely fertile, of which there cannot S80 TRAVELS THROXJi&H LOWER, CANADA: be a greater proof than that it continues to yield plentiful crops^ notwithstanding its being worked year after year by the French Cana- dians, without ever being manured. It is only within a few years back, indeed, that any of the Canadians have begun to manure their lands, and many still continue, from father to son, to work the same fields without intermis- sion, and without ever putting any manure upon them, yet the land is not exhausted, as it w^ould be in the United States. The manure principally made use of by those who are the best farmers is marl, found in prodigious quan- tities in many places along the shores of the Hiver St Law^rence. The soil of Lower Canada is particularly suited to the growth of small grain. Tobacco also thrives well in it; it is only raised, how- ever, in small quantities for private use, more than one half of what is used in the countiy being imported. The Canadian tobacco is of a much milder quality than that grown in Maryland and Virginia ; the snufF made from it is held in great estimation. ^ Culinary vegetables of every description come to the greatest perfection in Canada, as w^ell as most of the European fruits : the cur- rants, gooseberries, and raspberries are in par- ticular very fine ; the latter are indigenous, aud are found in profusion in the woods ; the VEGETABLE PRODU^CTIONS. 381 vine is also indigenous^ but the grapes which it produces in its uncultivated state are very poor^ sour, and but little larger than fine cur- rants. The variety of trees found in the forests of Canada is prodigious, and it is supposed that many kinds are still unknown : beech trees, oaks, elms, ashes, pines, sycamores, chesnuts, walnuts, of each of v/hicli several different spe- cies are commonly met with ; the sugar maple tree is also found in almost every part of the country, a tree never seen but upon good ground. There are two kinds of this very va-^ luable tree in Canada ; the one called the swamp maple, from its being generally found upon low lands; the other, the mountain or curled maple, from growing upon high dry ground, and from the grain of the wood l>€iog very beautifully variegated with little stripes: and curls. The fornier yields a mirch greater quantity of sap, in proportion to its size, than the other, but this sap does not afford so much sugar as that of the curled maple, A pound of gugar is frequently procured from two or three gallons of the sap cf the curled aiapie, whereas no more than tl\e same quantilj can be had from six or seven gallons of that of the swamp. The most approved method of getting the sap is by piercing a hole with an auger iu the SS2 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA: side of the tree^ of one inch or an inch and l balf in diameter, and two or three inches in depths obliquely upwards ; but the most com- mon mode of coming at it is by cutting a large •rash in the tree with an axe. In each case a small spout is fixed at the bottom of the wound^ and a vessel is placed underneath to receive the liquor as it falls. A maple tree of the diameter of twenty inches will commonly yield sufficient sap for making five pounds of sugar each year^ and instances have been known of trees yielding nearly this quantity annually for a series of thirty years. Trees that have been gashed and mangled with an axe will not last by any means so long as those which have been carefully pierced with an auger ; the axe^ however, is ge- nerally .used, because the sap distils much faster from the m ound made by it than from that made by an auger, and it is always an ob- ject with the farmer, to have the sap brought home, and boiled down as speedily as possible, in order that the making of sugar may not in- terfere with his other agricultural pursuits. The season for tapping the trees is when the sap begins to rise, at the commencement of spring, which is just the time that the farmer is most busied in making preparations for sowing his grain. It is a very remarkable fact that these trees. MAFLE TREES. 383 after having been tapped for six or seven suc- cessive yearS;, always yield more sap than they do on being first wounded ; this isap^ howeveri is not so rich as that which the trees distil for the first time; but from its coming in an in- creased portion;, as much sugar is generally pro- cured from a single tree on the fifth or sixth year of its being tapped as on the first. The maple is the only sort of raw^ sugar made use of in the country parts of Canada ; it is very generally used also by the inhabitants of the towns/ whither it is brought for sale by the country people who attend the market^^^ just the same as any other kind of country produce. The most common form in %vhirh it is seen is in loaves or thick round cakes. pre- cisely as it comes out of the vessel where it h boiled down from the sap These cakes arfe tjff a very dark colour in general, and very iird : as they are wanted they are scraped down with a knife, and when thus reduced into imwdcrr, the sugar appears of a much lig;hter cast/ arnl not unlike West Indian muscovada or grained mgar. If the maple sugar be carefully boiled r with lime, whites of eggs, blood, or any other articles usually employed for clarifying su^ctT. and properly granulated, by draining otf of the melasses, it is by no means inferior, eith^^r in point of strength, flavour, or appearance to the eye, to any We?.t India, sugar wb^t- S84 TRAVELS TliROUGH LOWER CANADA : soever: simply boiled down into cakes with milk or whites of eggs it is very agreeable to the taste. The ingenious Dr. Nooth^, of Quebec^, who is at the head of the general hospital in Ca- nada, has made a variety of experiments uport the manufacture of maple sugar ; he has gra- nulated, and also refined it, so as to render it equal to the best lump sugar made in England. To convince the Canadians also, who are as in- credulous on some points as they are credulous on others, that it was really maple sugar which they saw thus refined, he has contrived to leave large lumps, exhibiting the sugar in its differ- ent stages towards refinement, the lower part of the lumps being left hard, similar to the common cakes, the middle part granulated, and the upper part refined. Dr. Nooth has calculated, that the sale of the melasses alone would be fully adequate to the expence of refining the maple sugar, if a manufactory for that purpose were established. Some attempts have been made to establish one of the kind at Quebec, but they have never succeeded, as the persons by whom they were made were adventurers that had not sufficient capitals for such an undertaking. It ought not, however, to be concluded from this, that a manufactory of the sort would not succeed if conducted by judicious persons that had ample 4 funds for the business ; on the contrary, it is highly probable that it would answer. There is great reason also to suppose, that a manufactory for making the sugar from the beginning, as well as for refining it, might be established with advantage. Sc^^eral acres together are oftc^n met with in Canada, entirely covered with maple trees alone; but the trees are most usually found growing mixed with others, in the proportion of from thirty to fiftj maple trees to every acre. Thousands and thousands of acres might be procured^ within a yery short distance of the River St. Lawrence, for less than one shilling an acre, on each of which thirty maple trees would be found ; but supposing that only twenty-five trees were found on each acre^ then on a track of five thousand acres, sup- posing each tree to produce five pounds of sugar^ 5,580 cwt. 3 qrs. 121b. of sugar might be made annually. The maple tree attains ^ growth sufficient for yielding five pounds of sugar annually in the space of twenty years ; as the oaks and Other kinds of trees, therefore, were cut away for different purposes, maples might be planted in their room, which would be ready to be tapped by the time that the old maple trees failed. Moreover, if these trees were planted cut ill rows regularlj^, the trouble of collect- TOL. I, Q c \ 386 TKAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA! iw^ the sap from them wonid be mtich less than if they stood widely scattered^, as they do ia their natural sfate^ and of course tile expence of making' the siig^ar would be considerably les^ ened. Added to this^ if young" maples were constantly set out in place of the other trees, ss Ihey were cut dow^n, the estate^ at the end of twenty years, would yield ten times as much sugar as it did originally. It has been asserted, that the difficulty of maintaining horses and men in the wood at the season of the year proper for making the sugar would be so great, as to render every plan for the manufactory of the sugar on an extensive scale abortive. This might be very true, perhaps, in the United States, where the subject has been principally discussed^ and where it is that this objection has been made; but it would not hold good in Canada. Many tracks, contaiiii^^g five thousand acres eacli^ of sugar maple land^ might be procured in various parts of tlie country, no part of any of which v^oukl be more than six English miles distant from a populous village. The whole labour of boiling' in each year would be over in the space of six weeks ; tlie trouble there- fore of carrying food during that period, for the men and horses that were wanting for the manufactory, from a village into the woods, would be trifling, and a f«w huts might ba MAt»LE SUGAR, S87 built for their accommodation in the woods at a small expence. The great labour requisite for conveying the sap.from the trees, that grow so far apart, to the boiling house, has been adduced as another objection to the establishment of an extensive sugar manufactory in the woods. The sap, as I have before observed^ is col- lected by private families, by setting a vessel^ into wich it drops, under each tree, and from thence carried by hand to the place where it is to be boiled. If a regular manufactory, however, were established, the sap might be conveyed to the boiling house with far less la-* bour ; small wooden troughs might be placed under the wounds in each tree, by which means the sap might easily be conveyed to the distance of twenty yards, if it were thought necessary, into reservoirs. Three or four of these reservoirs might be placed on an acre, and avenues opened through the w oods, so as to admit carts with proper vessels to pass from pne to the other, in order to convey the sap to the boiling houses. Mere sheds would an- swer for boiling houses, and these might be erected at various dilferent places on the estate, in order to save the trouble of carrying the sap a great way. The expence of cutting down a few trees, so as to clear an avenue for a cart, would not c c 2 S88 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA t be much ; neither would that of making the spouts, and common tubs for reservoirs^ be great in a country abounding with wood; the quantity of labour saved by such means would^ however, be very considerable. When thcn^ it is considered, that private families, who have to carry the sap by hand from each tree to their own houses, and often at a considerable distance from the woods, in order to boil it^ can, with all this labour, afford to sell sugar^ equally good with that which comes from the West ladies, at a much k)wer price than what the latter is sold at ; when it is considered also, that by going to the small expence, on the first year^, of making a few wooden spouts and tubs, a very great portion of labour 'would be saved^ and of course the profits on the sale of the sugar would be far greater ; there is good foundation for thinking, that if a manufactory were established on such a plan as I have hinted at, it would answer ex- tremely well, and that maple sugar would in a short time become a principal article of foreign commerce in Canada. The sap of the maple tree is not only use- ful in yielding sugar ; most excellent vinegar may likewise be made from it. In company witi! several genlienien I tasted vinegar made from it by Dr. Nootb, allowed by every one present to be much superior to the best French AIR AND CLTMATE. SS9 •wliite wine vinegar ; for at tlie same time that it possessed equal acidity^ it iiad a more deii- ;ioiis flavour. Good table beer may likewise be made from the sap^ %Yinc!i mauy would mistake for malt liquor. ^ If distilled, the sap affords very fine spirit. The air of Lower Canada is extremely pure^ and the climate is deemed ho live at a distance, as travel- ling is then so very expeditious ; and tins is another circumstance which contributes, pro- bably not a little, to render the winter so ex- tremely agreeable in their cye3. Though the cold is so very intense in Ca- rsada, yet the inhabitants never suffer from it, constant experience having taught thein how to guard against it eifectually. In the first place, by means of stoves they Iceep their habitations as warm and comfort- able as can be desired. In large houses they generally have fouf or fivf^ stpyes placed in ilm 39i TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA! liall:, and in the apartments on the ground floor, from whence flues pass in different di- rections through the upper rooms. Besides these stoves^ they likewise frequently have Open fires in the lower apartments; it is more^ however^ on accovmt of the cheerful appear- ance they give to the room^ than for the sake of the warmth they communicate^ as bj the stoves the rooms can be heated to any degree. Lest any cold blasts should penetrate from without, they have also double doors, and if the house stands exposed, even double windows, about six inches apart. The windows are made to open lengthwise in the middle, on hinges, like folding doors, and where they meet they lock together in a deep groove; windows of this description, when closed, are found to keep out the cold air much better than the common sashes, and in warm weather they are more agreeable than any other sort, as they admit more air when opened. Nor do the inhabitants suffer from cold when they go abroad ; for they never stir out without first wrapping themselves up in furs from head to feet. Their caps entirely cover the ears, the back of the neck, and the greatest part of tlie face^ leaving nothing exposed except the eyes and nose; and their large and thick cloaks ef- fectually secure the body ; besides which thev wear fur gloyes^^ muffs, and shoes. DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 395 it is surprising to see how well tlie Ca- nadian horses support the cold; after standing for hours together in the open air at a time when spirits will freeze^ they set o ff as alertly as if it were summer. The French Canadians make no scruple to leave their horses standing at the door of a house^ without any covering, in the coldest v^eather^ while they are them* jselves taking their pleasure. None of the other domestic animals are as indiirerent to the cold as the horses. During winter all the do- mestic animals^ not excepting the poultry, are lodged together in one large stable, that they may keep each other warm ; but in order to avoid the expence of feeding many through the winter^ as soon as the frost sets in they generally kill cattle and poultry sufficient to last them till the return of spring. The car- cases are buried in the ground, and covered with a heap of snow, and as they are wanted they are dug up ; vegetables are laid up in the same manner, and they continue very good throughout the whole winter. The markets in the towns are always supplied best at this Beason, and provisions are then also the cheapest ; for the farmers having nothing else to engage thein, and having a quantity of meat on hand, that is never injured from being>sent to mar- ket, flock to the towns in their carioles in great pmnbers^ and always well supplied. S9G TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA : The winter ixenerally continues till tlie lat- fer end of Aprils and sometimes even till May, when a thaw comes on very suddenly. The snow soon disappears; but it is a long iime before the immense bodies of ice in the rivers are dissolved. The scene which presents itself on the St. Lawrence at this season is most tremeiidaus. The ice first begins to crack from side to side^ with a report as loud as that of a cannon. Afterwards^ as the waters be- come swollen by the melting of but as no given time is mentioned for the procuring of these settlers, the stipulation becomes nugatory. EMIGRATION. 407 upwards, particularly in Upper Canada, to royalists and others^ vho have at diflereut pe- riods emigrated tVom tiie \j a ed States. These people have all of them in ; roved their several allotments. By withholding a.iy better title^ therefore, than that of a ceiliticate, they are completely tied down to their farms, unless, indeed,, they think proper to abandon them, together with the fruits of many years labour, without receiving any compensation whatso- ever for so doing. It is not probable, however, that these peo- ple, if they had a clear title to their lands, would return back to the United States ; the royalists, who were driven out of the country by the ill treatment of the other inhabitants, certainly would not ; nor w ould the others, who have voluntarily quitted the country^ re- turn, whilst self-interest, which led them ori- ginally to come into Canada, operated in favour/ of their remaining there. It was the prospect of getting land oo advantageous terms, which induced them to emigrate ; land is still a cheaper article in Canada than in the United States ; and as there is much more waste land in the former, than in the latter country in proportion to the number of the inhabitants, it will probably continue so for a length of time to come. In the United States, at present, it is impossible to get land without paying for it ; 408 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANAOA : and in parts of the country where the soil is rich^ and where some settlements are already madc^ a tract of land^ sufficient for a mode- rate farm^ is scarcely to be procured under hundreds of dollars. In Canada^ however^ a man has only to make application to govern- nient ; and on his takhig the oath of allegiance^ he immediately a-ets one hundred acres of ex- cellent uncleared land^ in the neighbourhood of other settlements^ gratis ; and if able to im- prove it directly^ he can get even a larger quantity. But it is a fact worthy of notice, which banishes every suspicion relative to a diminution of the inha^bitants taking place by emigrations into the States^, that great num- bers of people from the States actually emigrate into Canada annually^, whilst none of the Ca- nadians, who have it iti their power to dis- pose of their property, emigrate into the Unit- ed Sfates, except, indeed, a very few of those \vho have resided in the towns. According to the opinion of others, again, it is not for either of the purposes already men- tioned, that clear titles are withheld to the lands granted by the crown, but for that of binding down to their good behaviour the peo- ple of each province, more particularly the Americans that have emigrated from the States lately, who are regarded by many with an eye ®f suspicion^ notwithstanding they have taken OBSEUVATIONS. 409 the oaths of allegiance to the cro^vn. It is very unfair^ however, to imas:ine that these people would be ready to revolt a second time from Great Britain, if they were made still more independaut than they are now, merely because they did so on a former occasion, when their liberties and rights, as men and as subjects of the British empire, were so shamefully disre- garded ; on the contrary, were clear titles granted with tlie lands bestowed by the crown on them, and the other subjects of the pro- vince, instead of giving rise to disaifection, there is every reason to think it would make them still more loyal, and more attached to the British government, as no invidious distinc- tions could then be drawn between the con- dition of the landholders in the States and those in Canada. The material rights and li- berties of the people v/ould then be full as ex- tensive in the one country as in the other ; and as no positive advantage could be gained by a revolt, it is not likely that Americans, of all people in the world the most devoted to self- interest, would expose their persons and pro- perties in such an attempt. If, however, the Americans from the States are people that would abuse such favours from the crown, why were they admitted into the province at all ? The government might easily have kept them out, by refusing to them any grants of lands ; but at any rate^ were it thought 410 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA: expedient to admit tliem^ and were such mea- sines necessary to keep them in due subjectioir., it seems hard that the same measures should he adopted in regard to the inhabitants of the proTince^ who stood firm to the British go- Temment^ CTeii at the time when the people in cvcF}^ other part of the continent revolted. For whatever reason this system of not granting unex-'^eptionable titles with the land, whkh the crown voluntarily bestows on its faithful subjects, has been adopted, one thing appears evident, namely, that it has very con- ?id€fably rekirded the improvement of both the provinces ; and iodeed^ as long as it is rc^ntinued^ they must both remain very back- ward countries, compared with any of the ad- Joining states. Were an opposite system, how- ever, pursued, and the lands granted merely with such restrictions as were found abso- lately necessary, in order to prevent jobbing, the happy effects of a measure of that nature would soon become visible ; the face of the country would be quickly meliorated, and it is probable that there would not be any part of North America, where they would, after a short period, be able to boast that improvement had taken place more rapidly. It is very certain, that were the lands granted * in this manner, many more people would an- nually emigrate into Canada from the United States than at present ; for there are numbers OBSERVATIONS. 411 who come yearly into the country to explore it/' that return back solely because they can- not get lands with an indisputable title. I have repeatedly met with these people myself in Upper Canada;, and have heard them express the utmost disappointment at not being able to get lands on such terms even for money; I have heard others in the States also speak to the same purport after they had been in Ca« nada. It is highly probable, moreover, that many of the people, who leave Great Britain and Ireland for America, would then be in- duced to settle in Canada instead of the United States, and the British empire would not, in that case, lose, as it does now, thousands of valuable citizens every year. What are the general inducements, may here be asked, to people to quit Great Britain for the United States ? Thev have been sum- med up by Mr. Cooper in his letters pub- lished in 1794, on the subject of emigrating to America; and we caniiot have recourse, on the whole, to betler authority. In my mind," he says, the first and prin- cipal inducement to a person to quit Eng- land for America, is, the total absence ofanx- * Mr. Cooper, late of Manchester, who emigrated to America with all his family, and whose authority has been very generally quoted by the x\mencaris who have since written on the subject of emigration. 412 TRATELS THROUGH LOWER CAN/lDi: ieiif rcspecling the future success of afamih/. There is little fault to iind with the govern- ment of America^ tliat is, of the United States, either in principle or practice. There are few taxes to pay^ and tho^e are of acknowledged iieces??it\% and moderate in amouni. There are animosities about re- ligion, and it is a subject about which few questioiisare asked ; there are few respecting political men or political measures ; the pre- sent irritation of men's miiads in Great Bri- tain^ and the discordant state of society on political accounts, is not known there. The government is the government of the people, and for the people. There are no tvthes, nor game lav/s ; and excise laws, upon spirits only, and similar to the British only in name. There are no great men of rank, nor many of great riches ; nor have the rich the power of oppressing the less rich, for poverty is almost unknown ; nor are the streets crowded with beggars. You see n« where the disgusting and melancholy contrast, so *^ common in Europe, of vice and filth, and rags and wretchedness, in the immediate neighbourhood of the most w anton extrava- gance, and the most useless and luxurious pa- rade ; nor are the common people so de- praved as in Great Britain. Quarrels are uncommon^ and boxing matches unknowu OK ER V ATI ONS . 4 ! in the streets. There are no military to '^^ keep the people iii awe. Robberies are very rare. All these are real advantages; but great as they are, they do not weigh witii Die so much as the single consideration firs^t mentioned." Any person that has travelled generally through the United States must acknowledge:, that Mr. Cooper has here spoken with great partiality ; for as to the morality and good order that prevails amongst the people^ he has applied to all of them wliat only holds true with respect to those who live in the most im- proved parts of the country. He is extremely inaccurate also„ in repre- senting the people of the States as free from all animosities about political measures; on the contrary, there is no country on the face of the globe, perhaps, Vv^liere party spirit mm iiigher^ wliere political subjects are more fre-- quentSy the topic of conversation amongst ail classes^ aAid v/here such subjects are more fre- quently the came of rancorous disputations and Jastiog difterences amongst the people. I have repeatedly been in towns where one half of the irdiabitants w^ould searceiy deign to speak to the other half^ on account of the difference of their political opinions ; aad it is scarceh^ pos- iihle, in any part of the country^ to remain for it few hours in a mixed company of men, with- 414 TRAVELS TiinOUGH LOWER CANADA: out witnessing some acrimonious dispute from the same cause. Let us^ however^ compare the inducemeiitij Avhich he holds out to people in England to leave that country for America^ that is^ for the United States^ with the inducements there would be to settle in Canada^ under the pre- mised supposition^ that the land was there granted in an unexceptionable manner. From the land being plentiful in Canada^ and consequently at a very low price^ but likely to increase in value ; whilst in the States^ on the contrary^ it has risen to an exorbitant va- lue, beyond which it is not likely to rise for some time to come ; there can be no doubt but that a man of moderate property could provide for his family with much more ease in Canada than in the United StateS;, as fdii^ as land were his object. In Canada, also, there is a niucli greater opening for young men acquainted with any business or profession that can be carried on in America, than there is in the United States. The expence of settling in Canada would be far less also than in any one of the States ; for in the former country the necessaries and con- veniences of life are remarkably cheap, whilst^ on the contrary, in the other they are far dearer than in England ; a man therefore would cer- tainly have no greater anxiety about the future OESEKVATIONS. 415 siictess of a family in Canada tlian in the United States^, and the absence of this anxiety according to Mr. Cooper, is the great iuduce- mcnt to settle in the States, which weighs , zaith hhii more than all other consicUraiions put to- gether. The taxes of Lower Canada have aires dr been enumerated ; they arc of acknowledged necessity^ and much lower in amount and mim- hev than those paid in the States. There are no animosities in Canada about religion^ and people of all persuasions are on a perfect equality "with each other, except^ in- deed^ it be the protestant dissenters, vAm may happen to live on lands that were subject to tithes under the French gi-vernment ; they have to pay tithes to the English episcopalian, clergy; bat there k eot a dissenter iii^^ing oa tithe lands, pf-rbaps, in the whole provinee. The lands granted since the conquest are not liable to tithes. The English episcopa,lian clergy are provided for by the crown out of the w^aste lands ; and all dissenters have simply to pay their own clergy/. There are no game laws in Canada, iior aii j excise law s whatsoever. As for the observation made by Mr. Cooper, in respect to the military, it is almost too futile to deserve notice. If a soldier, however, be an object of terror, the timid man will not find 416 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA: himself at ease in the United States any move than in England^ as he will meet with soldiers in New York, on Governor's Island, at Mifflin Fort near Philadelphia, at the forts on the North River, at Niagara, at Detroit, and at Oswego, &c. on the lakes, and all through the western country, at the different posts which were established by General Wayne. In every other respect^ what Mr. Cooper has said of the United States holds good with regard to Canada ; nay niore^ it must certainly in addition be allowed by every unprejudiced person that has been in both countries, that morality and good order are much more con- spicuous amongst the Canadians of every de- scription, than tbe people of the States ; drunkenness is undoubtedly much less com- mon amongst tbem, as in gambling, and also quarrels. But independant of tbcse inducements to settle in Canada, there is still another circum- stance, which ought to weigh greatly witli every British emigrant, according to the opi- nion even of Mr. Cooper himself. After ad- vising his friends to go where land is cheap and fertile, and where it is in a progress of improvement,'' he recommends them to go somewhere, if possible, in the neiglibour- lioocl of afew Englisliy whose society, even in Ajnerica, is interesting to an English set- OBSERVATIONS. 4:lt tler^ who cannot entirely relinquish the mc- 7noria temporis acti;" that is^ as he parti- cularly mentions in another passage^ he will find their manners and conversation far more agreeable than those of the Americans/' and from being chiefly in their company^ he will cot be so often tormented with the painful reflec- tion^ that he has not only left, but absolutely renounced his native country, and the men whoiti he once held dear above all others, and unitel himself, in their stead, with people whose vain boasts and ignorant assertions, however harsh and greeting they may sound to his ears, he must listen to without murmuring. Now in Canada, particularly in Lower Ca- nada, in the neighbourhood of Quebec and Montreal, an English settler would find him- self surrounded by his countrymen; and al- though his moderate circumstances should have induced him to leave England, yet he would not be troubled with the disasrreeable reflection that he had totally renounced his native land^ and swore allegiance to a foreign power; he would be able to consider with heartfelt satis- faction, that he was living under the protec- tion of the country wherein he had drawn his first breath ; that he was contributing to her prosperity, and the welfare of many of his coun- trymen, while he was ameliorating' his own fortune. YOL. I, E £ 418 TRATELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA: From a due consideration of every one of the before nientioned circumstances, it ap- pears evident to me, that there is no part of America so suitable to an English or Irish set- tler, as the vicinity of Montreal or Quebec in Canada ; and within twenty rniles of each of these places there is ample room for thousands^ of additional inhabitants. I must not omit here to give some account of a new setilemeot in the neighbourhood of Quebec, which I and my fellow travellers visited in company with some neighbouring gentlemen, as it may in some degree tend to confirm the truth of what I have said respect- ing the impolicy of withholding indisputable titles to the lands lately granted by the crown^ and as it may serve at the same time to shew how many eligible spots for new settlements^ are to be found in the neighbourhood of this city. We set off from Quebec in calashes, and fol- lowing, with a little deviation only, the course of the River St. Charles, arrived on the margin of the lake of the same name, about twelve miles distant from Quebec. The River St. Charles flows from the lake into the bason, near Quebec; at its mouth it ife about thirty yards wide,, but not navigable for boats, except for a few miles up, ov» ing to the nume- rous rocks and falls. In llie spring of the UIVER AND LAKE ST. CHARLES. 419 year^ when it is much swollen by floods, rafts have been conducted down the whole way from the lake, but this has not been accomplished without great difficulty, some danger, and a considerable loss of time in passing the differ- ent portages. The distance from the lake to Quebec being so short, land carriage must al- ways be preferred to a water conveyance along this river, except it be for timber. The course of the St. Charles is very irregu'- lar ; in some places it appears almost stagnant, whilst in others it shoots with wonderful im^ petuosity over deep beds of rocks. The views upon it are very romantic, particularly in the neighbourhood of Lorette, a village of the Huron Indians, where the river, after falling in a beautiful cascade over a ledge of rocks^ winds through a deep dell, shaded on each sidp with tall trees. The face of the country between Quebec and the lake is extremely pleasing, and in the neigh- bourhood of the city, where the settlements are numerous, well cultivated ; but as you retire from it, the settlements become fewer and fewer, and the country of course appears wild- er. From the top of a hill, ahov i half a mile from the lake, which commands a fine view of that and the adjacent country, not more than five or six houses are to be seen, and beyond these, there is no settlement besides that ou ee2 420 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA! Stoneliam township, the one under immediate notice. On arriving at the lake, we fouifid two ca- noes in waiting for us, and we embarked on board them. Lake St. Charles is about four miles and a half in length, and its breadth on an average about three quarters of a mile. It consists of two bodies of water iiearlj of the same size ; they communicate together by a narrow pass, through which a smart current sets towards Quebec. The scenery along the lower part of the lake is uninteresting, but along the upper part of it, the views are highly picturesque, pai'ticularly upon a first entrance through the pass. The lake is here interspersed with large rocks ; and close to the water on one side, as far as the eye can reach, rocks and trees appear blended together in the most beautiful man- ner. The shores are bold, and richly orna- mented with hanging woods ; and the head of the lake being concealed from the view by se- veral little promontories, you are led to imagine that the body of water is far more extensive than in reality. Towards the upper erid, the view is terminated by a range of blue hills, which appear at a distance, peeping over the tops of the tall trees. \V hen a few settlements come to be iiiade tiere, open to tlie lake, fur the land bordering upon it is quite in its STONEHAM TOWNSHIP. 421 natural state^ this indeed must be a heavenly little spot. The depth of the water in the lake is about eight feet, in some places more, in others less. The water is clear, and as several small streams fall into it, to supply what runs oft' by the River St. Charles, it is kept constantly in a state of circulation ; but it is not well tasted; owing, as is conceived, to the bottom being in some parts overgrown with weeds. Prodigious numbers of bull frogs, however, are found about the shores, which shews that springs of good water abound near it, for these creatures are never met w ith but where the water is of a good quality. At the upper part of the lake we landed, and hav ing proceeded for about half a mile over some low ground bare of trees, from being annually flooded on the dissolution of the snow, we struck into the woods. Here a roa-d newly cut soon attracted our attention, and following the course of it for a mile or tvv 0, we at last espied through a sudden open- ing between the trees, the charming little set- tlement. Tlie dwelling house, a neat boarded little mansion painted white, together with the of- fices, were situated on a small eminence ; to the right, at the bottom of (lie slope, stood the 4^2 TRAVELS THROUGH !tOWER CANADA : barn„ the largest in all Canada, v/ith a farm yard exactly in the English style ; behind the barn was laid out a neat garden^ at the bottom of which, over a bed of gravel, ran a purling stream of the purest water, deep enough, ex- cept in a very dry season, to float a large ca- noe. A small lawn laid down in grass ap- peared in front of the house, ornamented with clumps of pines, and in its neighbourhood were about sixty acres of cleared land. The com- mon method of clearing land in America is to grub up all the brushwood and small trees merely, and to cut down the large trees about two feet above the ground : the remaining stumps rot in from six to ten years, according to the quality of the timber ; in the mean time the farmer ploughs between them the best way he can, and where they are very mimer- ous, he is sometimes obliged to use even the spade or the hoe to turn up the soil. The land, however, at this settlement had been cleared in a different manner, for the trees and roots had all been grubbed up at once. This mode of proceeding is extremely expensive, so that few of those destined to make new settle- ments could afford to adopt it ; and, moreover, it has not been accurately proved that it is the most profitable one; but the appearance of lands so cleared is greatly superior to those cleared in the common method. NEAT FARM. 423 In another respect also the lands at this set- tlement had been cleared in a superior manner to what is commonly to be met with in Ame- rica ; for large clumps of trees were left ad- joining to the house^ and each field was en- circled with wood^ whereby the crops were se- cured from the bad effects of storms. The ap- pearance of cultivated fields thus situated^ as it were in the midst of a forest^ was inconceivably beautiful. The economy of this little farm equalled its beauty. The fields^ neatly fenced in and fur- nishe with handsome gates^ were cultivated according to the Norfolk system of husbandry, and had been brought to yield the most plenti- ful crops of every different sort of grain ; the farm yard was filled with as fine cattle as could be seen in any country ; and the dairy afforded excellent butter, and abundance of good <)heese. Besides the dwelling-house before mention- ed, there were several log-houses on different parts of this farm^, inhabited by the people who were engaged in clearing the land. All these appeared delighted with the situation; nor were such of them as had come a short time before from England, at all displeased with the climate; they informed me, that they had enjoyed perfect health from the moment of their landing, and found no inconvenience 4M TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA ! from the intense cold of the winter season, which appears such an insuperable objection to man J against settling in Canada. This settlement:, together with the township it is situated upon^ are the property of a cler- gyman formerly resident at Quebec. The township is ten miles square^ commencing where the most remote of the old seisniorit s cndj, lhat is^, withiii eighteen miles of the cily of Quebec ; but though within this short dis- tance of a large city, it was almost totally un- known until about five or six years ago^, when the present proprietor, with a party of Indians and a few friends, set out himself to examine the quality of the lands. They proved to be rich ; the timber was luxuriant ; the face of the country agreeably diversified with hill and dale^ interspersed with beautiful lakes, and inter- sected bj^ rivers and mill streams in every di^ rection. Situated also within six miles of old settlements, through which there were establish- ed roads, being convenient to a market at the capital of Canada, and within the reach of so- ciety at least as agreeable, if not more so, than is to be found in all America, nothing seemed wanting to render it an eligible spot for a new settlement; accordingly the proprietor made application to government ; the land was sur- veyed, the township marked out, and it was REFLECTIONS. 425 allotted to him merely^ however^ by certificate of occupation. Several other gentlemen, charmed with the excellent quality and beautiful disposition of the lands in this part of the country have taken up adjoining townships ; but at none of them have any settlements been made^, nor is it probable that any will be until the proprie- taries get better titles ; indeed, it has excited the surprise of a numerous set of people in the province, to see even the little settlement I have spoken of, established on land held under such a tenure. That unexceptionable titles may be speedily made out to these lands, is sincerely to be hoped; for may we not, whenever that mea- sure shall take place, expect to see these beautiful provinces, that have so long remain- ed almost unknown, rising into general no- tice ? May we not then expect to behold them increasing rapidly in population, and making hasty strides towards the attainment of that degree of prosperity and consequence, which their soil, climate, and many other natural ad- vantages, have so eminently qualified them for enjoying? And surely, the empire at large would be greatly benefited by such a change in the state of Canada ; for |as the country in- creased in population, it would increase in 426 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA: riches, and there would then be a proportion- able greater demand for English manufac- tures; a still greater trade would also be car- ried on then between Canada and the Vv est In- dies than at present, to the great advantage of both countries * ; a circumstance that would give employment to a greater number of Bri- tish ships : as Canada also increased in wealth, it would be enabled to defray the expences of its own government, which at present fall so heavily upon the people of Great Britain: neither is there reason to imagine that Canada, if allowed to attain such a state of prosperity, would be ready to disunite herself from Great Britain, supposing that Great Britain should remain as powerful as at present, and that Ca- nada continued to be governed with mildness and wisdom ; for she need but turn towards the United States, to be convinced that the great mass of her people are in the possession of as * All those articles of American produce in demand in the West Indies may be had on much better terms in Ca- nada than in the United States, and if the Canadian mer- chants had sufficient capitals to enable them to trade thither largely, there can hardly be a doubt but that the people of the British West Indian isles would draw their supplied from Canada rather than from any other part of America. The few cargoes at present sent from Quebec, always con;- mand a preference in the West Indian markets over those sent from any part of the United States. REFLECTIONS. 427 mucli happiness and liberty as those of the neighbouring country ; and that whatever she might lose by exposing herself to the horrors of a sanguinar} war, she could gain no essential or immediate advantages whatsoever, by assert- ing her own independence. OF THE FIRST VOLUME. \ T. Gillet, Printer, Wild Court, Lincoizi's-ian fields.