CONS. TS 547 S3 1909 A Practical Treatise ON Repairing Watch Gases W. SCHWANATUS AND WESLEY FENIMORE CHICAGO: HAZLITT & WALKER, Publishers 1909 Cow S' " T5 ■ ' ' S 3 ' : n'o^ I -I • r 1 • V .• r PART I. Page. Repairing the Pendant . 5 Lining Pendant Holes . 9 Work at the Joints .10' Soldering the Bezel . 14 The Closing of the Case .1? Taking Out the Dents . 22 Taking out the Dents from Rims .23 Removing the Dents from the Bottom .23 PART II. Fitting in a Movement .27 Fastening the Bezel .T.28 Solder Used on Cases .30 How to Solder .31 / Soldering Joints . 32 Pendant Set Watches .32 Case Springs . 33 i WATCH CASE REPAIRING. PART I-BY W. SCHWANATUS. During the pursuit of my vocation as casemaker, my cus¬ tomers have frequently solicited me to write on the minor repairs of watch cases, for the use and assistance of country watchmakers, since very frequently slightly damaged cases are barely worth the trouble of being sent to the casemaker. Impelled by these opportunings, I have finally concluded to do, and I will commence with REPAIRING THE PENDANT. The soldering of a broken pendant is a job of frequent occurrence. If broken off smoothly, which is often the case, it is not necessary to put a piece into the middle part for strengthening. Before attempting the work, take the case completely to pieces. Do this as follows: Gold cases have generally three pins in each j.oint, two end pins and one center pin. They are always inserted in the pendant from right to left, and must be returned again in the same manner. When taking the case to pieces, remove the end pins with a graver, which is not difficult to be done. Firmly press the graver into the ends of the joint, and with a small, wriggling motion forward, the pin is easily dislodged; it is well to have the graver fastened in a handle, as it offers more firm.ness in its manipulation. The end pins having been removed, take a well-filed punch, which enters firmly into the joint, while at the same time it must not fit too tightly, since it would widen or burst the latter. It is well to anneal and blue the punch, as it must be the main object not to injure the joints. Then take the case in the left hand 5 6 REPAIRING WATCH CASES as well as the punch, and with a small hammer give a few blows upon it from left to right,' and the pin will soon appear. The pins belonging to one joint must be carefully preserved, and returned in the same order. Have a care that the punch has no burr, and that its point be rounded off; we casemakers highly value a good punch, for reasons mentioned. Should the pins be obstinate and refuse to move, strike a few taps upon the end of the joint, widening it a trifle, and the end pins may then be taken out. When out, and the center pin should be inclined to give trouble, it may be treated in the same manner, to a few slight taps. This trouble to get out the pins is very seldom necessary. The joint sometimes contains an entire pin, and it must then be pushed out with a flat graver from left to right, by placing the graver at the ends of the joints firmly, and push¬ ing it forward with a strong pressure; for greater security and steadier motion, brace the hand with the case against the working bench. When pressing out the pins do not use a long graver—^the shorter it is the greater the power that can be developed with it. If the pin will not budge, widen the joints with the hammer, as indicated above. The pin may also at times be pushed out from right to left, and it occurs at times that a punch has to be brought into requisition. When the case has been entirely taken apart, inspect it to see that it be not strengthened with pinchbeck in the middle part, or that the pendant be not lined with tin. Unscrupu¬ lous casemakers sometimes use pieces of brass for strength¬ ening the middle part, and solder it in with tin. When this is present the novice had best cease from repairs and send the case to a casemaker, it being too troublesome to the former to- remove the tin. We will presume that it contains none; there is little danger of injuring a case by soldering, as i8 or 14 karat gold cannot support a fair degree of heat, and we proceed REPAIRING WATCH CASES 7 as follows: Carefully clean the surfaces to be soldered, and place the pendant in position to see if it or the middle of the case requires bending. When it has been reduced to its former symmetry, take a small piece of stout iron or steel wire, push it through the bow holes, take binding wire and lay a few loops around the middle of the case. Then take the pendant and lay the wire around the iron wire in the bow holes; lay the binding wire again around the middle part and draw it pretty tight, to prevent the pendant from moving. When sufficiently secure, again inspect it that it be in its proper position; then take a piece of slate and a piece of borax, rub this with a little water to thin paste upon the former, brush the place to be soldered with it, and apply the solder in small pieces from outside, say about in the center of the middle part. Do not use too much, and at the same time do not place it in the snap of the case —rather direct upon the outer broadside of the middle part of the pendant. With gold cases never use silver solder, but only gold solder. The middle part having in this man¬ ner been prepared for soldering, you may again brush the whole with borax. Next, take a well charred piece of charcoal, and place the middle part upon it. So as to keep it from falling off, place a small iron wire in the middle of the coal and lay the middle part in it. Then solder on the pendant, with a small alcohol lamp, with a moderate flame. It is advisable to first heat the solder a little, or to dry the borax, so that it remain in the position in which it was placed, to which attention must be directed. All care must also be taken not to direct the flame upon the object to be soldered, but warm first the mid¬ dle part, dark red, and slowly pass over to the pendant. Soldering must be successful in this manner. If the full flame were directed at once upon the pendant the solder might run into little balls, or “corn,” before it has fused, and I would most decidedly counsel not to attempt to fuse these balls. Should it occur, let the flame become steady 8 REPAIRING WATCH CASES and the object cool; remove the balls and apply other solder in the place. Of course, the repairer’s eye must, during^ soldering, be directed upon the solder, and as soon as it has fused the flame must cease; do not attempt by augmenting the heat to distribute the solder over different parts. As has been said above, there is no need to antici¬ pate the melting, especially of an i8 or 14 karat gold case, by gentle treatment and steady flame; simply do not blow too much. When the solder has fused, let the object cool, and inspect it to see that it is to your satisfaction. If you find an occasional spot where it has not surrounded the pendant, lay on a piece of solder; should you see a hole, however, put in a piece of brass or pinchbeck, lay a piece of solder over it, and repeat the operation.* I would specially remark here, that too much solder is injurious. Use it sparingly. If the soldering has been successful, remove the wires, place the object in a shallow vessel with water, and add from 20 to 30 drops of sulphuric acid, in order to remove the fire discoloration; an excess of sulphuric acid is not hurtful to the gold or silver. When it is found in a short time that the discoloration has been removed, take the object from the pickle, rinse it in water, and dry it clean. Should a little superfluous solder be visible from the outside, seek to take it off with a file, taking care, however, not to deface the shape either of the pendant or of the middle piece. If some has found its way into the snap, take a small flat graver, and carefully cut it away. This manipulation must be performed still more carefully than that of the filing, and if it cannot be removed without injury, it is better to leave a little solder in the snap than to injure the latter— it will do no damage. Then take a thin-cut pegwood and a little pumice stone and water, and grind the soldered place. The other parts of the middle part can be treated in the same manner should the}'- show traces of the soldering. The part is finally brushed with a chalk brush, to remove REPAIRING WATCH CASES 9 the adhering pumice stone, and polished with a pegwood or a piece of cork and crocus and alcohol; whenever the leather buff stick can be used, do so. The case is now ready to put together again. When doing this, file the center pin a trifle pointed at both ends, if the old one is used, to remove any burr. Any damage to the end pins, caused when taking them out, is to be removed with a very fine and worn file, after they are inserted again in the joint. The last piece of work is to nicely smooth the joint ends with such a file, for which purpose another case may be taken as pattern. Then polish them with a crocus buff, and the repair is ready and to satisfaction, if these directions have been adhered to. We next come to LINING PENDANT HOLES, The limng of the pendant is an easy job, especially if the case is without spring closing; but even cases with spring closing belong to this class of repairs. Never line the pendant by riveting in a tube, or, what is still worse, with tin. Both kinds are unknown to the case- maker. When the case has been taken apart, the trouble to line the pendant with gold solder is very small; take no brass tube, however, but rather use pinchbeck; this re¬ sembles closer the color of gold. The holes in the pendant must first be filed uniform with a good file; if they are w^n out upward, which is often the case, file them down¬ ward ; the pendant holes can more properly stand a little further below than higher up, and nothing disfigures a case so much as high pendant holes. When filed out to satisfac¬ tion, take the tube and fit it in firmly; take care, however, to have the joint below, and let it protrude a little on both sides. Then solder it in place with borax and gold solder. Cases with spring closing demand the additional attention that the tubes cased for lining do not enter too far into the pendant, so that sufficient shake is left for the push-spring, while with cases without them the tube may pass entirely lO REPAIRING WATCH CASES through. This part of the case, after finishing the job, is immersed in the pickle, the protruding part of the tube filed off, and smoothed with a worn file, level with the pendant, care being necessary not to injure the latter. The scratches of the file are removed with a water stone. When this has been done, open the holes uniformly with a broach, and then hollow them out with a chamferer, according to the size of the bow. The middle part is finely polished, and the case put together again. WORK AT THE JOINTS. A skillful workman is known by the joints he makes, and to make a good one is not so easy as might appear at first glance. I will endeavor to explain it as briefly as possible to the watchmaker, to enable him to do many a small piece of work himself, but will preface any remarks by saying that a good amount of skill, alertness and dili¬ gence, are necessary. Casemakers frequently handle watch cases repaired by jewelers and others, who boast of their ability to repair cases, but, generally speaking, the case is botched, and entirely ruined. I would dissuade, therefore, from giving such a job to a jeweler, if two or three new joints are to be made to the case. If, as is frequently the case, the middle joint of the case has become loosened, by reason of faulty soldering, take the case apart with flat pliers, bend the loose joint together, should it have opened somewhat, then place it between the two bottom joints, and carefully inspect it to see that it lies at the same height with them. When this has been set in order, clear the part at the middle piece, where the joint was located. The knuckle may then be placed in the channel, lay the cover on, and see that it protrudes nowhere. The place where the knuckle is to be located must be exactly marked by two lines, and the joint to be soldered is then tied between them. It is to be placed upon the same spot it occupied previously, and pay strict attention that the slit REPAIRING WATCH CASES H lies in the middle of the knuckle. The binding’ wire may be drawn fairly tight. Next apply borax to the middle piece, and let it run well through the middle joint; blow out the excess. The solder is applied both from without and within to the joint, but be saving of it, because very little is re¬ quired to solder the latter; if much were applied, it may easily happen that the solder runs into the joint, prevent¬ ing the cover from closing tight. It is a difficult job to get the solder out from between the knuckles. To guard against the solder running in between, the following process may be employed: Scrape a little chalk, moisten with water, and place it in the knuckle with the point of a broach; this can be done after the middle part has been supplied with borax. The chalk, however, must neither communicate from outside nor within, where the solder lies, with the borax. All the preparations, so far advanced, solder on the joint. Before immersing in the pickle, the middle part, after soldering, inspect it closely, to see whether the joint has been soldered securely; if you find that more is still necessary, apply it and repeat. When the job is to satisfaction, and the middle part dipped, inspect the bottom joints; it often happens that they have sufifered by the bending over of the bottom, whereby the middle joint broke off. In this case, file a pin of brass or pinchbeck, which enters firmly in the bottom joints; let the pin remain in them, and by means of bending with flat pliers or with a riveting hammer, spring the joints back into their original position, after which if all three joints are sufficiently strong, they may be broached all together. Do not use a very thick broach, and be care¬ ful. Should a little solder have run into the middle joint, it may be removed with the broach. For this purpose, place the cover upon the middle part and with a broach pass through all the three joints. When bending the bottom joints with the flat pliers, use no sharp,one, so as not to injure either the joints or the cover rim. 12 REPAIRING WATCH CASES It happens frequently that from careless opening or vio¬ lence the joints are simply torn out of their angle, and it is not necessary to solder them. In such a case take off the cover and dust cap, remove the lifting spring, and file a pin fitting exactly into the joints, which is inserted into them. It is then possible, by means of bending and the riveting hammer, to force the joints back into their original position, but be it understood that the pin is to remain in during the operation. It is immaterial whether the bottom joints or the middle one is first restored to its position, only never hammer upon the hollow joint or try to bend it. When they have been restored to order, so that they again open at right angles, grind them with a fine stone, or with a peg wood and some pumice. If it be found, however, that they cannot in this manner be restored to their former posi¬ tion, and it is desired to correct the defect, take a small piece of thin gold or pinchbeck plate, as long as the center joint, and from the outside bind it against it with binding wire; it may also protrude a little beyond the joint, not in length, but in height, so that the solder can be placed on it from the outside. Next apply borax to the plate as in joint soldering; lay a trifle of solder against it from the outside, using as little as possible, to keep it from flowing into the knuckles. The piece of gold plate can be very thin. When soldered in place, and the middle part has been dipped, file that part projecting from the outside even with the middle, part. Finally, all the three joints may be opened with a broach, and this defect also has been removed. It sometimes becomes necessary to use new pins in put¬ ting the case together again, as the old ones are more or less damaged, and in such cases always use tomback pins for gold cases and german silver for silver cases. Take wire of a size to fit the joint, and file it a little tapering at one end, so as to make it the shape of a broach. When the pin is filed, and it is found that the bottom or rim moves firmly with it, and that the pin in the middle joint turns REPAIRING WATCH CASES 13 with it (this is important, and especial attention must be paid to it), shorten the wire at the ends of the joints, file the pin even, and round the ends; it is advisable to take the joints of a good case as pattern. The main thing is that the pin is rounded ofif equal and uniformly with the joints, so .that no corners or.edges protrude; it may finally be ground ofif and polished with the joints. The pin must, when the bottom or rim contains two joints, always turn with it, that is, the two joints must carry it along. It is not very easy to file a good pin, and it often has its difficulties, therefore it is well if I give a few addi¬ tional directions. If it is found that the pin, after it fills the joint completely, will not turn with the two end joints, it is due to the fact that the middle joint is not well opened by broaching and hinders the pin in its free motion. It is commendable in this case to widen the center joint a little with the filed pin by pressing it carefully into it. The de¬ sired end will generally be obtained hereby and the pin turn. It is a matter of great consequence to force in the bottom pin as tightly as possible into the joints, since it is of great service to the snap of the bottom if the pin enters very tightly. Pay strict attention not to leave the wire too thick at the end, because by such a neglect the repairer might force open the fore joint. Whenever the joints admit of it (that is, if they are still strong enough and sufficiently long), three pins can be in¬ serted, and in such cases do as follows: File a pin exactly fitting to the joints, and if the bottom moves firmly with it (it is immaterial whether the pin moves with it or not), mark the pin with a small file at the ends of the joint, draw out the wire again and shorten it at the marTced places. Next divide the pin in three equal parts, and arrange the middle piece in such a manner that one-third stands be¬ yond the middle joint; the division may very well be meas¬ ured from the outside. If you have the requisite length (I call,especial attention to the fact that the middle pin must 14 REPAIRING WATCH CASES neither be too short nor too long), file the pin a little at the ends, so that it retains no burr; set the bottom upon the middle part, and carefully insert the pin into the joints. First use a pair of flat pliers for the purpose and finish with a punch. It is thus in one’s power to make the bottom as firm as desired. The ends are finally filled out with wire, generally using the same one for the purpose. It is filed flat, the burr removed, and the ends are firmly filled with it; if the pin cannot be withdrawn, it shows that it is sufficiently firm. It is pinched off with the nippers, filed flat and then nicely rounded off with the joints. SOLDERING THE BEZEL. It happens occasionally that the soldered ends of the bezel burst open, either from insufficient soldering or from forcing in a crystal; this is a piece of work which the watch¬ maker can very well do himself. To solder the bezel again do as follows: Scrape the place to be soldered very carefully with a graver; or, in case that the bezel should be sufficiently wide, with a fine and not very sharp file give a stroke over the ends, which, of course, must be done very carefully, so that too much is not filed away. Then take a piece of binding wire and lay a few loops of it around it; before it is tightly drawn on, however, take a piece of wire of such a size that it fills the glass groove and reaches a little beyond the ends, bend the wire to correspond to the groove, and lay it in, after which the piece is carefully tied crossways by means of the binding wire. The warping or bending of the bezel is prevented by placing in the piece of wire. When it has been tied suffi¬ ciently tight put on some borax, outside as well as within; place a piece of solder into the interior, and solder care¬ fully. It must be remembered, as a matter of great im¬ portance, that the bezel is to be first glow heated at the place opposite to the break, whereby its elasticity is over¬ come, and only after this pass around to the solder with a REPAIRING WATCH CASES 15 small and quiet flame. Soldering effected, remove the iron wire and pickle. When done, and a little solder should be noticed either in the glass groove or on the outside of the bezel, remove it with a small file from the latter, and cut it out of the former with a graver. The bezel is finally ground with pumice stone and wood, then polished and fastened again in place. THE CLOSING OF THE CASE. In order to produce a good snap on the case, it is first Of all necessary to find out why the case will not close. Do not by any means commence to work, especially with weak cases, without reflecting well where aid is most needed. Cases with this ailment are oftentimes very annoying, since a certain well defined system of work cannot be followed, and the repairer must often have recourse to tricks to obtain his ends. I will, therefore, endeavor to at least try to give the best possible directions I am able to. If the case is so defective that bezel, dust cap and bottom will not close— which often happens—take the case entirely to pieces, and inspect first the middle part. If this is so weak that it can be pressed together by the slightest pressure, and must, therefore, be strengthened from within by soldering either a piece of metal against it or flowing it with solder, it is bet¬ ter for the watchmaker not to attempt its repair, and to give the case to some case maker, because I would not by any means advise him to undertake such a job. If the middle part is sufficiently strong, however, and has been pressed together only by careless handling, he may attempt the correction of the closing in the following manner: Pick Dut a stake with as thin an edge as possible, fasten it in the vise, and by means of a riveting hammer holding the stake in the middle part, seek to raise the outside snap edge by careful taps; the bezel closing may be commenced first. It is necessary, however, to pay strict attention that the middle part is in as round a condition as possible; should it i6 REPAIRING WATCH CASES be out of round or bent out of shape, endeavor, before you expend any labor upon it, to first get it very nearly back to its original shape. It is highly necessary, when doing such jobs, that the repairer proceed with the greatest caution and coolness, since ends are easiest attained in this manner. When the closing has been raised up and the middle part is round, take a small file, and carefully go over the closing at the middle part with it; only very little assistance with it is necessary, and a favorable result will at once be obtained If the rim still closes very loosely, so that it opens by the least touch, and the closing of the middle part is in order and regular, seek to beat the rim together with a riveting hammer. On no account use pliers and seek to pinch the rim together with them, as is frequently done. After the rim has in this manner been reduced to closing, examine the dust-cap; if this is round but only closes very lightly, beat upon the closing with a riveting hammer, by making the cap snap tighter by very light taps upon the extreme .outer edge. In this instance, as in every other where the correction of the closing is involved, I must cau¬ tion my readers against the use of pliers, because it is an error to suppose that ends are quickest obtained by bending and twisting; on the contrary, the only effect of this work is that the case is seriously injured by the operation. If the dust-cap closes very lightly, in fact, will not remain shut, examine the closings, and it will be found very often, principally in cases with brass dust cap, that the snap of the cap is not sufficiently under-turned. In this case take a small graver and correct the closing of the cap with it, and the result will in most instances be found satisfactory. But do not work with the graver upon the width of the closing, but upon the depth. Of course the graver must not go too deep in the operation, otherwise the entire closing would be cut through. The most triflng correction is enough in the majority of cases. If the snap of the dust-cap at the middle part is pressed together, or if the closing does not lie high I REPAIRING WATCH CASES 17 enough, it may also be raised by means of the riveting ham¬ mer. It is well for such kinds of work to file a pin which firmly enters into the joints, and to test the closing with it, because it is a matter of great importance that the parts which are to be reduced into closing also move firmly in their joints, and do not shake.to and fro. The pin wire is left sufficiently long, so that it may be taken out and in¬ serted with the pliers. It becomes necessary sometimes to underfile the cap closing at the middle part. Having cor¬ rected the closing of the cap in this manner, test the bottom. It is very often necessary with this part to first straighten the bottom rim, and to take out dents, because in watches that have been worn, the cases are very often all out of shape. It is necessary first to restore the Hm into its cor¬ rect position, and after that examine the joints, which are generally out of order, at the same time. Should these latter be twisted out of place, fit a firmly entering pin into them, leave it in the bottom joints, then take a pair of dull pliers and bend them back. In cases without spring snap, it is of no importance if the joints are bent a little more than neces¬ sary, especially in old cases. After rim and joints have been reduced to order (which is very essential), a fairly satisfactory result will generally have been obtained; if, however, the bottom does not close tight, seek to make the rim narrower with a riveting ham¬ mer; the same result may also be obtained by using the planishing stake. The latter is attained by fastening the stake in the vise, the rim is placed into it, and it is tight¬ ened with careful taps upon the closing edge of the rim. If, after this, the bottom does not close sufficiently, the closing at the central part may also be remedied by filing with a cross file. Care must be taken that the closings are made a little conical, and it is well to take a new case as pattern; you will be successful with attention. If the bot¬ tom closes now, but still not regular, take the case in the left hand between the thumb and forefinger, and with the l8 REPAIRING WATCH CASES riveting hammer give it slight equal taps upon the outer¬ most snap edge of the rim, whereby the defect will have been corrected. Do not strike hard enough, however, to produce hammer marks; should any be produced by acci¬ dent remove them by careful filing. When the case has finally been restored to closing, clean the parts, and put them together. With new cases, especially silver ones, it frequently occurs that they close very tightly, and obstinately resist opening, so that the watchmaker is forced to ease the snap by means of a graver. Although he will sometimes accomplish his purpose in this way, it occurs fully as often that through ignorance he utterly ruins the case by cutting away the outer edge. The latter process is entirely useless, because the bottom cannot be closed if the outer snap edge is wanting. If he desires to employ the graver to ease the closing, let him slightly cut around the entire circumfer¬ ence, whereby he will at least preserve the same closing face. The following method for easing the snap is far more speedy, and insures success. With careful taps with a rivet¬ ing hammer upon the extreme outer snap edge of the rim seek to widen it a little. Should a few hammer marks have become visible remove them with a dull file, and next pass over the rim with a burnisher. It occurs quite frequently that the dust cap presses- upon the cap, so that it cannot be closed. The case maker has two means at his command to speedily correct these defects. Should the pressure be only trifling, widen the hole in the dust cap from within with an emery chamferer; this is very quickly done, and the hole retains a neat appearance. Many watchmakers often try to correct such faults by the use of the graver, by scratching the hole from within; this remedy, however, is objectionable, since the square hole is deteriorated in appearance thereby. If the pressure upon the dust-cap is of any magnitude, it is to be taken out ; it is also advisable to take out the bottom. Silver cases have REPAIRING WATCH CASES 19 only one pin in the joints, which, however, must be taken out in the same manner as with gold cases. A punch may be employed for taking out the pin of the dust-cap. When the latter has been taken off, lay its outer face upon a piece of felt and a small piece of silk paper or polishing leather upon the inner, so as not to injure the gilding; next take a half-round case stak^ and with an iron hammer strike a careful tap upon the place which is to be raised, whereby the defect will have been corrected. Such raising may also be produced in the same manner, at places where the dust cap presses upon the escapement; the- tap must be made in such a manner, however, that it shows no bulge upon the outside of the dust cap; also con¬ sider the space disposable between bottom and dust cap. There is generally so much room in silver cases that a small bulge causes no inconvenience; if, however, you find that the bottom presses upon the dust-cap, so that no rais¬ ing can be made, it is better to give the case to a case- maker. The pressing of the bottom upon the dust-cap is one of the most disagreeable defects, and the greatest hin¬ drance for producing a good closing. Although I can offer no advice to the watchmaker, I will at least make him ac¬ quainted with the manner in which the casemaker works to make a bottom higher, which is not by any means an easy task, especially with new watches, which must in no man¬ ner show that the bottom has been raised. The engine turning is so sensitive that the least mishap is shown at once, and it is then very difficult to obliterate it. To make a bottom higher, it is laid upon a piece of heavy leather, and then rub uniformly with a burnishing steel from within. If the bottom is thick, it is a very tedious piece of work, and it must several times be glow-heated, especially with gold cases. If the bottom is well worn, however, less depends upon a neat execution; a stake is fastened in the vise, the bottom is laid upon it and well rubbed over with a good burnishing steel. Seek to first 20 REPAIRING WATCH CASES raise the rim in this manner, which will greatly expedite the work. I repeat my above remark, however, that only old and worn cases can be treated in this manner, and when nothing depends upon a neat looking job. When the bottom has been successfully raised by the specified'process, it is to be repolished, because the polish has been injured both inside and outside by rubbing with the steel. All the bulges in the case must be taken out before it is repolished, if it was not done at the time of raising the bottom by rubbing. For this purpose fasten a flat stake, which is to be free of blemish, ground and highly polished, in the vise, and then take a good wooden ham¬ mer—this must also be polished, and consist of hard wood —and carefully beat out the dents one by one; they may also be pressed out with a burnisher from within, by laying the bottom upon a heavy piece of leather as aforesaid, and carefully pressing out each dent. Should there be any in the bottom rim, place a stake from within against the rim, and remove them by using a riveting hammer. The endeavor to raise the bottom having been success¬ ful. and the defect removed, cleanse the central part and the bezel, burnish the bottom within as well as without, and put the case together. It is generally very easy, with cases with spring snap, to reduce them to closing, and I shall specify a few manipula¬ tions necessary for the purpose. It occurs sometimes with new cases that the bottom will not remain shut, because its snap cannot seize far enough under the spring. To remedy this fault, take out the snap spring and underfile its head very gently; next take a fine emery file, and assist the spring head from underneath, where you have filed. This emery file is the best tool to be used, because it is easiest to remove the burr with it which has been formed by filing. Another remedy, equally expeditious and easily applied, can be made use of in the following case: It is often found REPAIRING WATCH CASES 21 that the bottom, especially of old and worn cases, will not close, although the snap of the rim may still be in good order, so that it would not be necessary to solder in a piece to produce a good closing, as is often to be done. When you meet such a case, take out the spring and file at the central part of the place where the spring head rests in it, the outer closing edge, with a small square file, forward out, so that the spring head can stand out a little more. When filing out in this manner care must be taken not to make the space too wide at the sides, and that of the closing edge a little thread still remains standing. Then take the spring and examine it, to see whether it possesses the neces- * sary spring hardness; if too hard, draw its temper a trifle, and next place its neck, the part between spring head and screw hole, upon a small piece of wood, and strike the spring carefully with the riveting hammer, so that the spring head inclines more forward. It is self-apparent that the spring must hereby not lie hollow. When it has been straightened in this manner, place it into the central part, and ascertain whether the error has been corrected; if the remedy has not been sufficient, the treatment of stretching the spring may be repeated. It is very advisable also, in this instance, to round the outer edge of the snap spring with the emery file, whereby a good and large snap is pro¬ duced. If, however, the spring has, by a long continued use, worn away the closing face at the rim, so that you are forced to solder a piece in the bottom rim to produce a closing, the moving forward and straightening the spring is of little account, and I can only advise you to turn the job over to a casemaker. It is frequently found, chiefly with new cases, that the bottom will not fly open sufficiently far, which error is sought to be corrected by many watchmakers by applying a little oil between the joints and the head of the lifting spring, and seek to render the joint pin more supple by moving the bottom to and fro. This method for remedy- 22 REPAIRING WATCH CASES ing the defect is not, advisable, however, and it will often be found that the very reverse is produced thereby. The surest and speediest manner for overcoming this defect, consists in taking out the end pins, and with a punch very slightly drive the middle forward; in the majority of cases only a very trifling starting is necessary. The operator has it entirely in his power, by shifting the pin, to make the bot¬ tom more tight or easy. When set in order, reinsert the end pins, and if they should have become useless, owing to the change of the center pin, file another. It may also hap¬ pen that the middle pin has to be taken out entirely and slightly weakened; when this becomes necessary it is also to be shortened at the same time. I finally mention another error, easily corrected, and one which is often found in new cases, to-wit, that the closing spring is pressed back when the stem is turned, whereby the case flies open. If the closing is otherwise in good or¬ der, the fault will be due to the fact that the push button is not filed out sufficiently. Take it out and correct it by filing either with a small round or flat file. TAKING OUT THE DENTS. New watches, which have for some time been in the store, will often be found slightly indented; these dents can easily be removed in the following manner: If they are of such a nature that it is not necessary to take the case in pieces, it is best to leave it together; if they are not to be reached with the hammer, the case is to be taken apart— this depends entirely upon the nature and situation of the dents. There are various stakes for taking out the dents from the central parts, according to the size and internal shape of the latter. A suitable stake is found, fastened in the vise, and by applying the dented part to the stake, seek to raise the dent with the riveting hammer. Generally speaking, this is no diffiult work, and you will be success¬ ful in the majority of cases. "When the dents are removed in REPAIRING WATCH CASES 23 this manner, take a very fine file and file over the places carefully—that is, if the central part is smooth; in a con¬ trary case, of course, you cannot touch it with the file—or the central part, in case it be smooth, as it generally is, the place may be ground with a stone and afterwards polished, TAKING OUT THE DENTS FROM RIMS. For this work the casemaker has half round stakes with thin edges, which are set into the rims, after which the dents are taken out with the hammer. Afterwards the places are either filed over or ground, and polished again, as previously explained; the removing of dents from the rims and central parts, in case said dents should not be too deep, so that the snaps are drawn into sympathy, requires no great trouble; the next work is of more consequence. REMOVING THE DENTS FROM THE BOTTOM. Several appropriate stakes are necessary for this. At first two stakes are necessary, a round one to straighten the edges, and a half-round one to correct the faces with. If the bottom is thick, or if the dents are rather deep, the repairer can at first try to take out the dents by means of a flat so-called cylinder stake and a wooden hammer, by raising them with short and steady blows. If the dents are taken out in this manner, and only a shadow remains visible upon the bottom, they are laid upon a piece of leather, and the places are additionally worked over from within at these places with a burnishing steel. With old and worn bot¬ toms the burnishing steel may also be used from the out¬ side by fastening the case stake in the vise, holding the bot¬ tom firmly upon it, and smoothing it from outside with the steel. I would call special attention to the fact that the burnishing steel can be used only for the outside of old cases, because the engine turning is very sensitive. Be also careful not to round the bottoms of either cylinder or an¬ chor watch cases. If it should occur, nevertheless, that the bottom will rise up in the middle, take, in order to remove 24 REPAIRING WATCH CASES this very disagreeable accident, the half-round burnishing steel, and with it press the bottom in its entire rounding from within to the outermost edge, and the bottom will become flat again. Weak bottoms, however, if they are to be restored again to flatness, must be placed between two glowing plates, since they can be reduced successfully only in this manner. This, however, is no work for the watch¬ maker, since the tools and utensils necessary are out in his line. The same process is observed for taking out the dents from dust-caps. New joints for the dust-cap become occasionally neces¬ sary for silver cases. When it occurs file the hinges entirely away with a hinge file, and when of proper depth, finish with a fine round file; next spring the dust-cap upon the edge, and see whether there is room for the new hinges. Now take hinge wire of the size of the previous hinge, or else be guided by the size of the brass hinge still on the dust-cap, nip off a piece of the entire length of the old hinge, and secure it with binding wire, paying strict atten¬ tion, when doing it, that the joint is turned downward. Also see that you do not make the new hinge any longer than the old one has been, since it might easily happen that the ends of the hinges would lie against the bottom rim, so , that it cannot close at that place. We casemakers do not bind on the entire hinge, but divide it at once into two parts, bind on each part separately, and only leave as much room as is necessary for the dust-cap hinge. The first method is easier for the watchmaker, however. When the hinge has been soldered in place, pickle the middle piece and file out the hinge, that is, fit in the dust-cap hinge into the soldered on hinge, by filing this out. When done, the soldered on hinge must be opened, with a broach as much as that of the dust cap, after which the middle part is ground and polished, and the case is put together again. It happens sometimes that the hinges qp the middle piece are still in a state of good preservation, while that on the REPAIRING WATCPI CASES 25 dust-cap has either been damaged by overstraining, or been broken off on account of bad soldering. When this occurs on a brass dust-cap with soldered hinge the watchmaker may undertake the repairs himself, but should it be a silver or gold one, I would advise him not to undertake it, since the execution of this job, as the dust-cap has to be nicely polished again, is surrounded with difficulties, and, besides this, it is not without risk. If he wishes to solder the broken hinge of a brass dust cap in place again, secure it with binding wdre, its joints downward, binding it right firmly upon the place it has occupied, sprinkle the entire dust-cap with ground borax, also, put a little on the hinge to be soldered, then a little solder, and proceed in the cus¬ tomary manner. It is well to drive a pretty strong iron wire in the coal, and to lay the dust-cap firmly against it to keep it from falling off during the act of soldering. The preliminary moistening of the dust-cap with borax, within as well as without, is done for the purpose of preserving its graining during soldering. If this soldering is to satisfac¬ tion, pickle the dust-cap and broach the hinge. In case the old hinge should no longer be fit for use, and you are obliged to make a new one, of course make one of the same thickness as the metal; remove all remains of the old hinge with a round file, which, however, perform with' necessary attention, and do not file too much. As is well known, the hinge of the dust-cap in cheap watches is riveted in place, and it frequently occurs that such a hinge has become loose. In order to fasten it again, the majority of watchmakers, as well as casemakers, drive in new rivets, a process, however, which I cannot recom¬ mend, since hammering and filing the dust-cap becomes necessary. The metal of the latter is generally very soft, and the consequence is that the place at the dust-cap gen¬ erally becomes raised by these violent means. The gilding of the dust-cap also suffers by the filing and smoothing down of the riveting. The following method is far more 26 REPAIRING WATCH CASES expeditious, and the cap is preserved intact. If the hinge has become loose from the rivets, take out the hinge pin, and press the hinge firmly into the rivets still within the dust cap. For sake of caution, the latter may also be laid upon a flat case stake, and impart a few careful taps upon the rivets with a small hammer. Then supply a little solder¬ ing fluid to the hinge with a fine wire, but very little, so that it cannot draw into the dust cap, place a small piece of tin from outside upon the extreme edge of the joint, intro¬ duce the dust-cap into only a moderate flame, and let the tin flow between it and the hinge. The latter will obtain more solidity, and remain cleaner in this manner, than by the insertion of new rivets. If the job has been done care¬ fully, nothing will be visible of the tin soldering, and the main thing is to preserve the gilding intact. REPAIRING WATCH CASES. PART II-BY WESLEY FENNIMORE. The tools used in the manufacture of watch cases under the old system of hand work were few in number. On the contrary, the tools used in the repairing of the case not only comprise all those formerly used in the making of the case, but numerous small tools are fashioned by the workman himself to suit the kind of work to be done. The workman should be skilled in all branches of the trade. If he is not, how could he be expected to renew and make over any part of the case that becomes injured by accident, or worn out by use ? I have seen a spring put in a case that was slowly but surely prying the joints off the case. Surely such work is not skill, but ignorance on the part of the workman, and the owner of the watch foots the bill. We will now take a finished case, or one that is sold as finished and supposed to be correct and ready to receive the movement. We will start this way because the case is sup¬ posed to be finished and in use before it needs repairs, al¬ though we have them at times sent to us for repairs that have not been out of the storekeeper’s hands, sometimes from faulty workmanship, again through accident. We now have the case, and we will put the movement in it. We find the movement will not go in the center; it binds somewhere. We try the front; it is too close a fit. We take a graver or hand tool and relieve the front by cutting all around carefully, after first gauging the part we are going to cut, to find out if we have sufficient thickness, 27 28 REPAIRING WATCH CASES After relieving the front we find the back of the center is too small to receive the back plate of the movement and must be cut out larger. We now succeed in pushing the movement in its place, turn the locking screws and clo.se the cap. The cap shuts hard. We listen for the beat, and find the movement has stopped. We naturally suppose that the cap touches the balance bridge. We roll up a small piece of clean beeswax about the size of a pinhead, place it on the highest part of the movement, and again close the cap over it. If we find the wax crushed down close to the balance bridge we know that the cap does not clear and should be raised. This can be done much better in the case factory, where they have facilities for repolishing. Again, suppose we find that the cap has ample clearance and the movement stops when the cap is closed. Should this occur, we must cut out the back of the center so as to clear the back plate of the movement. Also relieve the cap snap so that it will not shut so hard and the trouble, I be¬ lieve, will be corrected. The trouble I have just cited is rather unusual. It has occurred, and may occur again to some of you, as it has to myself. It is most likely to hap¬ pen to the small size movements and filled cases, where the centers are rigid. My theory of this trouble is this: In the process of soldering the back rim the center becomes out of true with the front of the center through irregular heating, which causes unequal expansion. Again, it may be that the center was not properly trued in the watch case factory. It frequently happens that glass bezels will not stay on properly. They jump off and cause considerable annoyance. I have frequently seen cases that have the bezel snap on the center hacked or cut in points at intervals all around. This has been done by some one not familiar with the injury they are doing to the case. This may cor¬ rect the evil for a short time. Snapping on the bezel a few times wears off the points and leaves the snap in a far worse condition than it was before. This method of hack- REPAIRING WATCH CASES 29 ing the snap should never be resorted to. Should the snap on the center be at fault, the better plan is to remove the front back from the case, put the center on a lathe and undercut the snap with a graver, working the lathe around by hand. Should the bezel be at fault from being out of shape it should be straightened. Should it not be properly undercut on the snapping edge, then the bezel should be placed on a lathe and the snapping edge properly turned. Should the bezel be loose and require tightening, we resort to stamping in a die that we have made for the purpose. In adjusting the snapping edges on backs and caps, where hand cutting must be resorted to, the utmost care must be exercised. We use a clean, sharp graver, being careful in the cutting, lest the edge be left irregular and lumpy, which will prevent the snap from opening and closing properly, and also from holding down or not remaining tight around the edge of the center. Cases frequently become dented and out of shape, either from a fall, a blow or from a rigid body pressing on the watch in the wearer’s pocket. In either case it requires either a blow or pressure to restore it to its former shape, and it is here that the experience and practical judgment of the workman is put to the test. He must know where to strike, so as not to force the metal too far out in the op¬ posite direction, or where and how to use the burnisher so as not to have the back of the case kinky, as we term it. When by the pressure of the thumb it readily goes in and out, it appears to have lost its strength or set. This can be corrected by heating to a dull red heat between two rigid iron plates. It is folly to suppose that anyone not experi¬ enced can properly remove dents and bruises from watch cases and restore them to their former shape. The storekeeper sells a watch to a customer, perhaps a friend. He wants his initials engraved on the shield of the case. After a short time he becomes dissatisfied and wants to return it for a different style case. It may have 30 REPAIRING WATCH CASES been sold on the installment plan, as this is a favorite method at the present time and the person failing to pay for it, it came back again. What is to be done ? The shop¬ keeper thinks the cost too great to put on a new back, he will have a plate put on over the shield, making a plain raised shield. This should always be done with hard solder. I know that lead solder is sometimes used for this purpose and I know of no practice more to be condemned than the use of lead in any way about a watch case. You may think that a little soft solder will do no harm and it won’t show. Then it is so easily done, but as you are aware cases are so liable to injury. A joint may be torn off which must of necessity be soldered on with hard solder. Should the shield that has been soldered on with lead solder escape the notice of the workman, the result will be, if not a ruined back, at least a very much disfigured one. No, keep lead solder away from watch cases. All necessary repairs can and should be done with hard solder. It requires the same time to fit the piece that is soldered on with lead as though it were hard soldered on, and while one may properly be classed as a tinker’s job, the other bears the imprint of the finished workman. Some other parts of the case at times come in for their share of lead soldering, and I now refer to pendant bushings, at the bow holes. We at times find that they have been lead soldered and where the pendant happens to be of the hollow order, the lead runs on the in¬ side and is difficult to remove. Again the case may be heated to redness without thought of the presence of lead, and the pendant is either wholly or partially ruined. I have seen a mass of lead melted around a lift spring for the pur¬ pose of holding it in place. This is all wrong, as the lead must be removed from the case before a joint could be soldered on it. Should the screw in the spring be broken off drive it out with a pin driver. If that cannot be done drill it out, if the screw is not tempered too hard. Should It prove too hard to drill, the temper must be removed from REPAIRING WATCH CASES 31 the spring and retempered again after removing the broken screw. The soldering of the various parts of a watch case may seem to the uninitiated an easy task, and so it would be were the parts heavy and rigid, but when we have a thin shell to heat, the utmost care must be exercised. The workman should have a good burner, giving out a soft flame. If the flame should be too strong and not easily con¬ trolled with the blow pipe, the opening or top of the burner should be covered with another thickness or two or even three thicknesses of fine brass wire gauze, until the flame can be readily controlled, otherwise the part to be soldered is apt to be overheated and ruined, or at least partially so. The use of the blow pipe must be acquired by practice. No general rules, that I know of, can be laid down for the guidance of the workman. Some prefer one with a small opening; others prefer one with a large opening. For my own use, I prefer the latter, as it gives a broad and softer flame and is more easily controlled. The part to be soldered should be carefully heated all around before attempting to melt the solder. I have frequently seen a glass bezel sent to be repaired that appeared as though an inexperienced person had made the attempt to solder it, and had blown fhe flame only on the part to be soldered, leaving the other part comparatively cool, with the result that the bezel, in¬ stead of remaining round, or circular in form, it had more the form of a looped string, being entirely out of shape and useless for the purpose originally intended. To properly solder a glass bezel, the workman should remove the old solder from the broken edges of the bezel with a sharp file, being careful not to file away more than necessary to clean and prepare the edges properly. Now take a piece of rather stout iron binding wire, about an inch long, bend carefully to the true circle of the bezel, bind this firmly in the glass groove, leaving one-half of it extending over, to bind the other end of the bezel to, after having one end firmly bound 32 REPAIRING WATCH CASES cross the wire, and bind the other edge to the circle of wire, at the same time bring the edges of the bezel together. Borax the edges, and solder, being careful to blow the flame evenly over the bezel, and there will not be any trouble about keeping it in shape. Joints frequently become strained and broken off. Should the joint merely become unsoldered, the old solder should be carefully cleaned off, the parts boraxed with clean borax, bound securely in place with well annealed iron binding wire, and soldered with silver solder. Should the broken joint not be in good condition, cast it aside and cut a fresh joint to the proper size, or rather length, being careful that the new joint is of the same diameter as the broken one. The same method applies, whether the joint is to be sol¬ dered on the back or the center of the case. We use well annealed wire of about 24, 26 or 28 gauge. In binding the joints on the centers of very thin and small cases, the wire used should be very thin. Thick wire will not hold the joint firmly in its place and is more likely to press the cen¬ ter out of shape. We frequently use a double strand of fine wire in preference to a single strand of heavier wire. Should the pendant setting get out of order, and I now refer to the Elgin style, consisting of a sleeve screwing in the inside of the pendant, we sometimes find that on turn¬ ing the crown the movement winds, whether the stem is set at the winding or pulled out in the position for setting. To adjust the setting, it is necessary to take the movement from the case, and it is advisable before altering the setting device in the case, to see that the movement is in order. We sometimes find that the setting spring in the movement is broken, or if not broken it fails to work properly. Should the movement work correctly, then we know that the stem is too long and goes too low down in the movement. Either unscrew the crown and raise the sleeve in the pendant, or if the case be of the hunting style, file a trifle off the end of the square. Care should be exercised not to reduce the REPAIRING WATCH CASES 33 length of the square too much, or a new stem will be neces¬ sary. Again, should we find that the turning of the crown turns the hands in either position that the stem is placed in, then we know that the stem is too short and the sleeve must be lowered in the pendant. If the sleeve cannot be lowered we must use a longer stem. These pendant setting devices are difficult to adjust. At times they try both the skill and patience of the experienced workman. We believe in the case factories, that the best form of case spring to do the work required of it, is the one made from the solid strip of steel, and is the form which we in¬ variably put in cases that are sent to us for repairs. Our reasons for believing the solid spring the best, are these: The blade of the spring that does the work, must have some solid attachment or backing; this it receives from the butt of the spring, which we are careful to fit in the center as close as it is well possible to fit it. This gives it no chance to give or work in the center, and throws all the action in the blade, where it should be. The many patent case springs on sale in the material stores are of little or no value, with¬ out considerable fitting and adjusting, so that when the time consumed in the fitting is considered, the cost will be about the same, while the service done will be largely in favor of the solid case spring. Watchmaker is a term that would seem to imply a maker of watches, and I have no doubt that in the early days of watchmaking the watchmaker was a maker of watches, at least to a greater extent than at the present time, and what is true today of the watchmaker, is equally true of the watch case maker. The writer remembers some years ago, that the watch case maker received the material or stock, as we term it, merely rolled into shape. It was unbent and un¬ soldered. The workman was obliged to solder and shape the stock, turn and joint the case, ready to receive the springs and for the finishing; but the growing needs of the country demanded greater facilities in the manufacture of 34 REPAIRING WATCH CASES both the movement and case. In casing the foreign move¬ ments the use of machinery was not possible to any great extent, but the production of the American watch, making the movements of a uniform size, not only made the use of machinery possible, but profitable, to the watch case manu¬ facturer. It is true that the introduction of machinery re¬ duced the price of the watch case to the consumer. It also reduced the quality of the work in a corresponding degree, and at the same time the school of the watch case maker was almost entirely swept out of existence. This assertion may seem singular to those not entirely familiar with the trade, but when one stops to consider that the old time workman prepared the stock, turned the case and jointed it ready for the springs and finishing, it must be clear to the thoughtful that the division and sub-division of labor re¬ sorted to in the large watch case factories, prevents boys from learning the trade as they should, and becoming fin¬ ished workmen. The tendency in the trade, for some years past, has been against the apprenticeship system. Some years ago one of the most prominent of New York’s watch case manufacturers, said, in the presence of the writer, that they no longer took apprentices. They did take boys, teach¬ ing them but a small fraction of the business. Becoming expert at this, they never advanced beyond it, and it fre¬ quently was the case that the wages made by the boy was the wages that ruled the man when he arrived at manhood. It is the conviction of the writer, that in the near future, the experienced workman must of necessity be in demand, if not in the machine watch case factory, he will at least be a useful factor in the repair shop, where the various parts of the watch case must be made over, and the worn out parts be replaced by new ones. These can only be made by workmen of experience and training, but where are the boys to receive their training? Surely not in the large factories that are ruled by the team system. How this want of the watch case trade may be filled, we must leave for the future to determine. (the KlaKftmaKm’ CaiDe) ( ITS USE AND ABUSE ] “It is a pleasure to realize that after so many years of need a work on the watch maker’s lathe and how to use it is published. No doubt it will meet with ready sale, as it deserves. The student or novice will need it; the experienced watch maker will need it as well to discover a possibly better method of doing his work.”— /. H. Purdy. “I find it full of bright suggestions of how to use the lathe. The purchase of a lathe is an entirely different problem from that of its proper use, and the self educated watch maker is usually less skillful and accurate than those who have had the advantage of association with many other workmen in using the lathe. A copy of the 'Watch Maker’s Lathe’ will give the best of advice, as it is based on the ex¬ periences of others to accomplish good work.”— H. E. Duncan. “I have looked over a copy of ‘The Watch Maker’s Lathe: Its Use and Abuse,’ and I believe that it fills a very useful place in the list of books which are of help to the watch maker. The subject is treated thoroughly and interestingly. Many things concerning tools which are but vaguely understood by the majority of watch makers will be rendered clear by its perusal .”—John I. Bowman. Sent postpaid on receipt of $2.00 c HAZLITT & WALKER. Publishers 373 Dearborn Street, Chicago ishers, ] :ago. III. J PUBLISHED BY & WJLX^KEIR, 373 DSARBORM^ S'T., CHICAGO, IX^i:.. Repairing Repeating Watches. The only work on the re¬ pairing and adjusting of these complicated and interesting time-pieces. Every up-to-date man will appreciate it, for a glance through its pages shows him it is written by one who knows. Paper cover, 30 pages, well illustrated. Prize Essay on the Balance Staff and Cylinder. Thirty-two pages of interesting matter on a subject which does not receive the attention it should do from most of us. Very fully illus¬ trated. Paper cover . 35 25 Staff Making and Pivoting. Practical instructions for the making of new staffs and pivots. Beginning with the raw ma¬ terial this article takes up each step of the work, showing the requirements, measurements, kinds and shapes of good pivots; together with methods of gauging, grinding, polishing, etc. Ful¬ ly illustrated. 46 pages. Paper cover. 25 Abbott’s American Watchmaker and Jeweler. The old standard work of the jeweler’s craft. This book is such a well known authority that it is scarcely necessary to make mention of it. The fact that it has been through twelve editions, be¬ ing kept constantly revised, is alone sufficient to show the es¬ teem in which it is held by the trade. A book of practical working methods, formulae, tools and their uses, as well as historical data and biographical information. Our standard cloth binding—maToon and gold. $1 50 Prize Essay on Watch Cleaning and Repairing. Watch cleaning and repairing is one of the most frequent as well as important jobs the jeweler is called on to do, and the more light the man at the bench has on the subject, the more expe¬ ditiously and thoroughly will he be able to do this work. More thoroughness with more speed means more value. Your salary depends on your value. This book will be of assistance to you. Read it. Paper cover. 39 pages. 25 Watch and Chronometer Jeweling. A description of this branch of horology written in a clear and instructive manner; with instructions for making the necessary tools, etc. In addi¬ tion to the practical working knowledge imparted, the writer discusses the stones used; their qualities, etc.; thus giving the reader a general insight into the theoretical as well as the practical side of the subject. Very interesting. 120 pages. Il¬ lustrated. Paper cover. 35 The Tower Clock and How to Make It. By Earl B. Per¬ son, formerly instructor in machine design at the Chicago Man¬ ual Training School. Twenty full page detail drawings and complete elevation and plan, 14x18 inches, folded in. The sub¬ ject is one in which every watchmaker should take the liveliest interest, and one upon which he will find it difficult to obtain such information as is here .given. From it a watchmaker can construct a clock for his own store. 1 00 Friction, Lubrication and the Lubricants in Horology. This is a branch of the work to which the average watch repairer gives but too little careful thought, though it is one of vital im¬ portance if he would have his work “stand up.” If he cleans and oils a watch it is to his interest that it keeps time. If not properly and scientifically oiled with the best of lubri¬ cants it cannot run accurately for long and the work will soon have to be done over again; but the chances are that the man who did the first job will not be given the opportunity to do the work, or any other work on that watch again. Read this val¬ uable little compilation by W. T. Lewis. It is small but im¬ portant, like the subject of which it treats. 95 pages. P^iper, 75c. Cloth binding. Aluminum Title. 1 00 Modern Optfcs. This volume treats of accommodation and convergence; presbyoiiia; decentering spherical lenses; transpo¬ sition on the cross; prescription writing; dissection of lenses; locating the astigmatic meridian in astigmatism; hyperopia; spasm of accommodation and asthenopia; myopia and the chro¬ matic test, etc. A book of interest to both the student and the practitioner. By Clifford S. Friedman, O. D., late pro¬ fessor of refraction in the Northern Illinois College of Ophthal¬ mology and Otology, Chicago. Paper cover, 75c. Our standard binding maroon cloth, gold title. 1 Theoretical and Practical Optics. Very fully illustrated and covering the entire theory of optics; the anatomy of the eye; the lenses of the trial case; action of lenses upon light; transposition, etc., etc. A manual by David Ward Wood, late professor of Optometry in the Northern Illinois College of Oph¬ thalmology and Otology, Chicago. The late Prof. Wood had a faculty of making knotty problems clear even to the begin¬ ner; while his articles were always welcomed by the profession. Paper cover, 75c; maroon cloth and title in gold. 1 A B C of Fitting Glasses. A manual for the optician. By Edmund T. Allen, M. D., Ph. D. Contents: The Fitting of Glasses; The Record Book; Hypermetropia; Etiology, History and Diagnosis; Symptoms, Objective Signs; Test Types, Pin Hole Test, Ophthalmoscopic Test, Treatment, Regimen, Prog¬ nosis; Correction of Hypermetropia; Myopia; Etiology, Diagno¬ sis, Correction of Hypermetropia; Myopia; Etiology, Diagnosis, Objective Signs, Tests, Treatment, Prognosis; Correction of Myopia, Astigmatism; Etiology, Diagnosis, Objective Science. Tests, Ophthalmoscopic Test, Treatment, Prognosis; Correc¬ tion of Astigmatism, Presbyopia, Correction of Presbyopia, Muscular Asthenopia, Etiology, Diagnosis, Objective Signs, Hartridge’s Test, Treatment, Heteraphoria, Varieties, Causes, Anatomy, Tests, Effects, Ocular Reflexes, Higher Prisms an aid in the treatment of Incurables. Cataract; Classification, An¬ terior Capsular Cataract, Posterior Polar Cataract, Lamellar or Zonular Cataract, Comical Cataract, Nucler Cataract, A Mature Cataract, A Hypermature Cataract, Etiology, Diagno¬ sis, Objective Symptoms, Differential Diagnosis, Prognosis, Treatment, Surgically. Glaucoma; Iridectomy, Cyclotomy, Sclerotomy. In paper covers, 75c; cloth binding. 1 The Embryology, Anatomy and Histology of the Eye and the Physiology of Vision, by Earl .1. Brown, M. D., and Wm. D. Zoethout, Ph. D. You can gain a knowledge of the eye easier and quicker with this book than by any other means. There are 58 micro-photographic pictures of the actual tissues of the Eye taken from Dr. Brown's famous set of slides of the normal human eye, and 26 pictures from original wash drawings il¬ lustrating the anatomy; and 62 outline drawings illustrating the physiology of vision. A very complete index adds much to the value as a work of reference. The present is the time to pre¬ pare for the future and a few leisure moments spent each day for three months studying the anatomy and physiology of the eye, will enable anyone to gain sufficient knowledge to pass any reasonable examination given by a State Board of Examiners or to discuss the subject intelligently with his pa¬ tients, or with those who have some knowledge of the intricate structures of the eye. In knowledge there is power, and es¬ pecially this is so if the optometrists wish to be recognized as professional men by the general public. An intelligent patient expects those who care for his eyesight to know something of the anatomy and physiology of the organ of sight as well as the physics of light and lenses. All technical terms are explained and the literal meaning of every Latin phrase is given, so that any one with a common school education may read and under¬ stand it. Printed on ffne enameled book paper and bound in maroon silk cloth, with gold back and side stamps. Price- 2 00 00 00 00 Compensating Pendulums. A practical paper on the’ con¬ struction of mechanically perfect pendulums, together -with dra-wings and measurements. 40 pages. Paper cover. 35 Prize Essay on the Balance Spring and Its Technical Ad¬ justment. A reliable article on a subject on ■which there Is but little reliable information. Our standard cloth binding— maroon -with title in gold. 1 00 The Art of Hard Soldering. A compilation by the late Henry G. Abbott of the best methods and recipes, together ■with valuable information regarding tools, fluxes, etc. This is not an untried work but one that has been tested out time after time. It was first published twelve years ago and still the orders come in for it. We need not say more to the man looking for a reliable work. 69 pages. Fully illustrated. Cloth. 50 Watch Repairing. For the man at the bench this work contains many suggestions not only as to the best methods of performing various operations, but also as to the choice of tools, arrangements of bench, etc., for the most expeditious handling of work. Of advantage to the experienced as well as the apprentice. By W. B. Sherwood. 63 pages. Paper cover.. 35 General Letter Engraving. A thoroughly reliable work. This book by G. F. Whelpley, an acknowledged authority on engraving, is one of the best that the beginner can purchase, as it covers the field from the drawing of the simplest lines and curves to the most intricate monograms and ciphers. The older engraver also will find plenty of interest to him in it. Ill pages. Paper cover, $1.00. Cloth cover, gold title. 1 25 Modern Letter Engraving in Theory and Practice. This book is recognized by all competent judges as one of the very best works extant on engraving of letters and monograms. The author in addition to being an adept in his art has the happy faculty of expressing himself with great clearness so that there is no mistaking his meaning. And while it is always best, if possible, to have practical Instruction from a good teacher when taking up any new work, it is nevertheless pos¬ sible for anyone to take the above book of Mr. Rees and by faithful work to befcome a proficient engraver. 176 pages, fine heavy paper. Over 200 iliustrations. Our standard cloth bind¬ ing. maroon and gold. 1 50 Modern Electro Plating. A hand book of the principles and practice of commercial electro-plating, written as a guide for those who have not had the advantages derived from practical training in the modern plating establishments. Telling in a common sense way how the work is done; with instructions ‘as to the management of batteries, dynamos, tanks, the action of stripping solutions and pickles; formulae for the different plat¬ ing solutions and the hundred-and-one other details that are necessary to the successful working of a plating plant. By J. H. VanHorne. 192 pages. Illustrated, indexed and bound in cloth. Title in gold. 1 00 The Watchmakers’ Lathe. The only book on this subject and the only one necessary because it covers the field com¬ pletely. H. E. Duncan, H. R. Playtner, J. H. Purdy and oth¬ ers at the top of the profession have endorsed it, and such men would not do so unless it really was a work of more than ordinary merit, and practical value. Every one who uses a lathe should study it if they would be fully conversant with its possibilities. By Ward L. Goodrich. 268 pages. 230 illustra¬ tions. Fully indexed. Well bound in cloth in our standard binding, maroon and gold. 2 00 Thirty-Eight Secret Formulae. A vest-pocket book of 38 private formulae for watchmakers, jewelers, engravers and kin¬ dred trades. These are the final result of a chemist’s extended experiments in the production of plating solutions, polishes, lac¬ quers, solders, fluxes, buffing compounds, etc., for a jobbing firm; and the ready sale with which they met speaks for their value. The book was originally put on the market at $2.00. We are going to close them out and offer them while they last at half price. Bound in red linen—gold stamp. 1 00 Acme Watch Guarantee. If you desire to increase your watch repair business, purchase an Acme Guarantee book and advertise that you “give a written guarantee with all work turned out.’’ Books are substantially check bound; have a stub attached to each guarantee so that the watchmaker may keep a record of what each guarantee covered. Book of 200 Guarantees. 1 00 Book of 300 Guarantees. 1 25 Book of 500 Guarantees. 2 00 Watchmakers’ and Jewelers’ Practical Hand Book. A bench book for the watch and jewelry repairer, containing many private formulae, and numerous suggestions as to mak¬ ing repairs: together with hundreds of notes on general work. Fifth edition. 118 pages. 154 zinc etchings. By Henry G. Abbott. Paper cover, 35c. Flexible muslin cover. 50 Acme Monogram Album. This little album contains 350 artistic two-letter monograms, each complete and ready to trace and transfer to the work in hand. A monogram of each letter of the alphabet in combination with each other letter. Paper cover . 10 The Watchmakers’ and Machinists’ Hand Book. An ele¬ mentary work on the science of watchmaking. This book is intended as a step onward for the watchmaker who is educat¬ ing himself in his profession, and who is now ready for more advanced knowledge than is required in his every day cleaning and repairing work. In nearly all works on this subject the ad¬ vanced portions of it only are treated; writers taking it for granted that the student already has considerable knowledge of the subject and that he is also well up in algebra and higher mathematics generally. With this book it is not so. The English and mathematics are both clear and simple; the sub¬ ject of interest to every watchmaker who is seeking a more comprehensive knowledge of his vocation. By W. B. Learned. 60 pages. Paper, 50c. Cloth. 75 Repairing American Watches. This is a 46-page essay by J. VanKeuren (Detent), the author taking a watch and ex¬ amining every part, one after another, proceeds as if each were either out of order or broken and shows the method of repairing same; and evolving- at the same time a system for examination and repairs. Systematic work means quicker work and better work, and leaves a feeling of security that nothing has been overlooked: that the job will not come back in a week or two and have to be done over again at your expense. Read this and commence systematic work now. Paper cover. 25 An Analysis of the Lever Escapement. This was a lecture delivered before the Canadian Watchmakers and Retail Jewel¬ ers’ Association by H. R. Playtner, Principal of the Canadian Horological Institute. An essay which a man in Mr. Playtner’s position would read before a critical audience of practical watchmakers would of necessity be a masterpiece. Read it. Cloth binding. Gold stamp.. 50 Poising the Balance. A 27-page treatise giving many use¬ ful suggestions on this branch of the watchmakers’ trade. Well worth careful reading. 25 Hairspringing. An authority on this subject says that not one watchmaker in fifty really knows a properly fitted hairspring when he sees it. While this statement may be overdrawn we must admit that what most of us “don’t know about the sub¬ ject would fill a book.’’ This is the book, written by one who does know. Read it and see how many of the fine points you have forgotten. Paper cover... 25 Adiustments to Position, Isochronisrn and Compensation. In addition to practical explanation, this work explains thor¬ oughly the principles which underlie adjustments, so that the reader may go at this most tedious work intelligently: and not by guesswork. 50 pages. Illustrated. 25 Jewelers’ Practical Receipt Book. A flfty-five page book¬ let of receipts for the jeweler and silversmith. Eighth edition.. Acme Record of Watch Repairs. A record book of 1,000 entries for watch repair work; each entry having blanks for name and address of customer, description of job, number of check, costs, dates received, promised, delivered, etc., so that most complete records may be kept with a minimum of effort.. 1 Acme Record of Jewelry Repairs. A record book of 1,000 en¬ tries for jewelry repair work; each entry having blanks for name and address of customer, description of job, number of check, costs, dates received, promised, delivered, etc., so that most complete records may be kept with a minimum of effort.. 1 Acme Record of Watches Bought and Sold. A record book of three thousand entries, ruled to show make, kind and num¬ ber of movement, when and of whom bought and the cost; when and to whom sold, kind of case and price received for each, also total price. By this means a complete record of your watch transactions may be kept with very little effort. You know how long each movement was in stock before being sold; and therefore which pattern sold quickest and which ones pay best to carry. A comparative record of this sort is one of the very best means of showing you where you stand on watch sales. Substantially bound in boards. 1 Watchmakers’ and Jewelers’ Practical Receipt Book, A work of 12S pages packed from cover to cover with receipts that every jeweler should possess. This book was first pub¬ lished in 1892 and though it has been reprinted a number of times the demand for it still continues. It contains the re¬ ceipts and formulae you want—from simple cements to the re¬ covering of gold and silver from the sweepings of your shop. Tastefully bound in cloth. 1 The Evolution of Automatic Machinery as Applied to the Manufacture of Watches. A book of 150 pages describing the various machines employed in turning out the different parts of the watch of to-day. Illustrated by 72 fine halftones made es¬ pecially for this book. Of Interest to all who are interested in watches. Bound in silk cloth—bevel edges. 2 Developing: Its Use and Abuse. The late Henry G. Ab¬ bott in this, his last book, gives the reader the benefit of his experimentation and wide experience with the standard devel¬ oping agents, as w'ell as his theoretical knowdedge of develop¬ ing; thus enabling the photographer to undertake this funda¬ mental part of picture-making with intelligence, and with a knowledge of the requirements of an ideal negative and how to go about complying with those requirements. 52 pages. Paper cover . Modern Photography in Theory and Practice. For the ama¬ teur who is aiming to produce really artistic work this book will be of great help, being written by one who was an artist in every sense of the word and who took up photography, be¬ ginning at the beginning, and mastering each detail, in order that he might have at his command every means possible of producing through photography, pictures of artistic value. The results of his investigations you may get from this book and save yourself a great deal of discouraging experimentation. By the late Henry G. Abbott. 250 pages. 18 full page half¬ tone engravings and numerous smaller ones. Thoroughly in¬ dexed. Paper, 75c. Cloth—maroon and gold title. 1 15 00 00 00 25 00 25 00