Y kc^- / THE ^tttiauartan ^ttmtratg > COMPRISING SPECIMENS OF ARCHITECTURE, MONASTIC, CASTELLATED, AND DOMESTIC; TVith other Vestiges of ANTIQUITY IN GREAT BRITAIN. Accompanied with Descriptions. VOL. I. HontJon : PUBLISHED FOR THE PROPRIETORS, ty WM. CLARKE, NEW BOND STREET ; J. MURRAY, ALBEMARLE- STREET ; S. BAGSTER, STRAND ; J. M. RICHARDSON, CORN- HILL ; AND SHERWOOD AND CO. PATERNOSTER-ROW. 1815. W. Wilson, Printer, 4, Grerille-Street, London. ADDRESS. On presenting the First Volume of the Antiquarian Itinerary to the Pubhc, the Pro- prietors thankfully acknowledge the liberal sup- port they have received in the progress of their undertaking ; and beg leave to say, that no efforts on their part will be wanting, to render the Second Volume of the work, more worthy of acceptance than the First. Their most fervent hope is, that the Antiquarian Itinerary may be found, not only a very agreeable Pocket Companion to the Antiquarian Traveller, but also, by the faithful- ness of its delineations, and the number of sub- jects it will embrace, the most complete Repertory of the kind, ever ofiered to the notice of the British Public. ADDRESS. To their Correspondents, the Proprietors beg to return their grateful acknowledgments, and re- spectfully solicit a continuance of their favours. — The suggestions of several relative to the Wood Engravings, will be attended to ; it being the intention of the Proprietors, at a future period of the Work, to form a volume of the Wood Engrav- ings, accompanied with Descriptions ; so that on the conclusion of the Antiquarian Itinerary those who prefer it will have an opportunity of binding them up in Counties with the Engrav- ings on Copper. ^c^^ffZtJ- A-<-*^--^ «^^i- M^A^cP^ ROMAN ANTIQUITIES AT ALDBOROUGII, YORKSHIRE. Aldborough is situated on the south bank of the river Ure, and with Boroughbridge, distant ahout half a mile, forms one parish, containing about one hundred and twenty houses. It was once a Roman city, but little now remains indicative of its former greatness or grandeur. The artist from whose paintings the plates that accom- pany this description are engraved, has favored the editor with the following extract from his memorandums made on the spot. " The village of Aldborough was the Isurium Briganti- cura of the Romans, of whose magnificence nothing now remains, except some tesselated pavements nearly perfect, and a few other fragments, principally of sculpture. The first pavement which I noticed is of an Etruscan pattern, consisting of alternate rows of stones, black and white, each stone being three quarters of an inch square, with a broad VOL. I. B ROMAN AN'TIQl-ITIES AT ALDBOROUGH. border of larger tessela of a brownish brick. The ornamented portion measured nine feet in length, and five feet three inches in breadth. At the same house where I saw this pavement, is preserved a small Roman capital of the Corinthian order, and of most excellent workmanship, which was dug up in the neighbourhood. At another house, a few doors off, kept by two old maiden ladies, one of whom is a dwarf, the other an intelligent person and very civil, I saw two more tfsselated pavements, both nearly close together and in one room : this room being suitably furnished, gave great character and effect to the pavements : one of these is principally red and white, of a lozenge pattern, edged with a border or string of black. In a corner of this room are broken pieces of Roman pottery, principally portions of urns of large dimensions ; here like- wise is a volute belonging to an extraordinary large capital, and part of a column, perhaps of the same, on which is an inscription, just legible, thus translated : This To The Emperor Trajan, The Best, Happy, And Au gust Prince, In His Twentieth Consulate. In the garden stands a Roman altar of good workmanship, with an inscription which I could not make out. On the east end of the church wall is a stone worked into the wall, with a figure on it well designed, but much mutilated, of undoubted Roman sculpture. " The boundaries of this ancient city may still be traced, but with difficulty ; the walls being entirely removed and the ditches levelled, generally indeed ploughed up or built upon." This village sends four members to parliament, under the names of Aldborough and Boroughbridge. They do not, like .^ijyL^-?7!^.^>y .jviit HJ-BshadT-^-tkeBvfnatJTsTJTlusc ^ If; KOMAN ANTIQUITIES AT ALnBOROUGH. Steyning and Braniber, in Sussex, consist of one paltry street ; or like Weymouth and Melcombe, in Dorsetshire, unite in chosing four members, but are styled separate and distinct boroughs,-\vithout arms or corporations, and almost destitute of every thing else but representatives. A bailiff, appointed at the court leet of the lord of the manor, is the returning officer, and the right of election is in sixty-four housekeepers paying scot and lot : these houses are almost all the property of the Newcastle family. Aldborough, or Oldborough, was anciently a distinguishing name from Newborough, now Boroughbridge : in this part of the village are three stones, dalled the Devil's Bolts, or Arrows, by the vulgar, about which there are several current kgends. These stones are of considerable height and four square, of a pyramidal form, but flat at the top : they stand nearly in a line from north to south. The south and middle stones are about twenty-five feet above the ground, fluted towards the top, but not regularly : these grooves are tradi- tionally stated to be occasioned by the rain trickling down them, and in the course of time forming channels. The sides of both these pillars are each about four feet wide near the bottom, but diminish towards the top. The northern- most stone is broader and shorter than either of the others, being full six feet wide on two of its sides, and not above nineteen feet in height. Between this village and the borouglj town of Rippon is a large and beautiful mansion, called Newbie, built by the late Sir Edward Blackett. The park extends to the banks of the Ure, and laying low, is sometimes partially overflowed by that river, wliich coming down from the hills not far distant, and ROMAN AVTIQUITJES AT ALDBOROUGH. through a marly loamy soil, enriches the earth in this neigh- bourhood in a most astonishing mann** .7^ . 'j\i/?/^'/^f'^/7/._ c^^ttf^'/Z^. • '"-^ .~:'ypn^rj.~jJza.jJ2j.ff:/ '^(!ii2rktJi£w2.jnd Ssst y THE WEST GATE, CANTERBURY, KENT. The tntrances into Canterbury were formerly by six gates ; named West Gate, North Gate, Bur Gate, St. George's Gate, Riding Gate, and Wincheap Gate, the latter having been built in the room of a more ancient gate, styled Worth Gate. The West Gate is the only one remaining, which was erected by archbishop Sudbury, in the reign of Richard the Second ; it is a lofty, spacious, and well-built structure of stone, and con- sists of a centre, flanked by round towers. The whole sum- mit is embattled, and the entrance is defended by machico- lations, the parts for the portcullis being still perfect. One of the branches of the river Stour flows in front of this Gate, and is crossed by the London road over a bridge of two arches, built likewise at the expence of one of the arch- bishops. From the time of Henry the Sixth this gate has been used as the city prison, both for criminals and debtors ; and to render it more commodious, various alterations were made in the interior, about the year 1794. Simon de Sudbury, the above-named worthy prelate, was translated to the see of Canterbury from that of London in the year 1375. He was a man of splendid talents, and much employed in state aflFairs in the early part of the reign of Richard the Second, by whom he was appointed chancellor of England, in January 1380. On the 14th of June, in the THE WEST (iATK, C.\\TEl{BURY. next year, he was barbarously murdered on Tower-hill, by the mob under Wat Tyler, together with sir Robert Hales, prior of the hospital of St. John of Jerusalem. Besides the West Gate, this prelate erected a considerable portion of the wall extending from thence towards the North Gate ; he also made considerable alterations in the west transcept of the cathedral, to adopt it to the style of architecture at his time •u use. /^ HEDINGHAM CASTLE, ESSEX. Hedixgham, or Castle Hedingham, as it has been long called, from the castle erected here soon after the Norman Conquest, formed part of the extensive barony of the Veres, earls of Oxford, to whose ancestor, Aubrey de Vere, it was given, with many other lordships, by William the Conqueror, after the defeat of Harold at the battle of Hastings. The Castle stands near the village, on an eminence. In its original state it occupied a much larger area than at present ; but the Keep, from the great strength and solidity of its walls, has alone resisted the ravages of time and of man. The exact period of the erection of this fortress is not known ; but the peculiar similarity of Rochester castle, built by bishop Gundulph, between the years 1088 and 1 107, scarcely leaves a doubt of its having been raised about the same era. The form of the Keep is nearly square ; the east and west sides measuring about fifty-five feet, the north and south about sixty-two ; its height is rather more than one hundred feet. The walls are about twelve feet thick at the bottom, and between nine and ten feet at the top. At each angle on the top was formerly a turret, which, with the platform, were embattled. About six feet within the original entrance, which is on the west side of the Keep, is a circular staircase, descending to HEDINGHAM CASTLE. Ihe ground floor and ascending to the upper stories. The interior consists of five stories, and was constructed with every attention to security from the attacks of external enemies. The ground floor had originally no light, but from loop-holes; and in its construction displays only massive strength without ornament. The entrance story is more lofty, and its architecture of a lighter kind. On the irext flat is the hall of audience and ceremony: this is a noble apartment, almost forty feet long and upwards of thirty wide : a gallery cut within the walls surrounds this room. Its height from the floor to the centre of the arch, which extends com- pletely across, and supports the upper part, is twenty-one feet, and to the ceiling twenty-eight feet: here the style of the architecture becomes more ornamented. In this chamber the ancient barons received the homage of their feudal te- nants, and entertained their visitors. Above, is the attic or uppermost floor, and over it the platform, which commands extensive views over the surrounding country. Near many of the loop-hules and windows, on most of the floors, are a variety of recesses running into the wall : these were, most probably, intended as sleeping places for the soldiery. The family of De Veres possessed the lordship of Heding- ham from the Conquest till 1625; and although the exact time of the erection of the Castle cannot be ascertained, there is no doubt that it was built by one of this opulent family. That it was raised prior to the year 1 152 is certain, as various authors have recorded the death of Maud, wife to king Stephen, as happening at " Hanningham Castle, be- longing to Albcric de Vere, carl of Oxford :" it is probable ilarefore that it was built either by Aubrey, the first carl, \^- 1 • V HEDINGHAM CASTLE. or by bis successor ; the former of whom was slain in London by the rabble in 1 140 ; the latter died in 1214. During the barons' wars this Castle was taken and retakew several tiroes, and from those troublesome times nothing re- specting it occurs till the time of John, the twelfth earl, who having espoused the Lancastrian cause in opposition to that of the house of York, continued so firm in hisallegiance to Henry the Sixth, that Edward the Fouith, in a parliament held in November, in the first year of his reign, caused him to be attainted, with Aubrey, his eldest son ; and afterwards, with several others, to be beheaded on Tower-hill. John, his second son, immediately took the title of earl of Oxford, and used his utmost efforts for the restoration of the deposed family, in which object he was for a short time successful, and was then reinstated in his estates and honours ; but Edward once more gaining the ascendancy, the earl, after the decisive battle of Barnet, fled into France ; whence re- turning with a sniall force, he took St. Michael's Mount, in Cornwall, but was soon obliged to yield himself a prisoner, and was sent by the king to the castle of Haramcs, in Picardy : his estates were confiscated, and the Castle, lord- ship, and manor, of Hedingham, were granted for life, by Richard the Third, to sir Thomas Montgomery ; but on the accession of Henry the Seventh, he was dispossessed, and the carl's estates and honours restored again to the right owner ; he having contributed more by the zeal and courage with which he commanded the vanguard of Richmond's army, at tlie battle of Bosworth, than perhaps any other nobleman did, to the success of that day. This earl appears to have been a munificent and learned man, and to have lived in HEDIXGHAM CASTLE. great splendor and much hospitality at Hedinghara Castle. These qualities, notwithstanding he continued to serve Henrjr the Seventh, seem to have drawn the jealousy of his master upon him ; who, after partaking of a most sumptuous and expensive entertainment at this Castle, caused him to be fined 15,000 marks, for some small irregularity in having his retainers about Lim. On the death of Henry the eighteenth earl, without issue, in 16-25, the lordship of Hedingham was held in jointure by his countess, after whose decease it passed to his mother's family, one of whom, in the year 1713, sold it to Robert Ashurst, esq. The present possessor is Lewis Majendi, esq. who resides in the mansion erected in the beginning of the last century. A ^^^/z^ ^c>/i^, ira^/^ O/uC'/'t^/i^, c/t^^^z-fz^rc^/i^y'-C'. I'M?lisrud far 3ie li-spris^jrj i:^T/:Ci2rh:j!e*Jand^e^rJjn^iSi^. THE FONT IN WARE CHURCH, HERTS. This Font is of considerable antiquity, and is supposed to have been given to the church by Thomas de Montacute about the time of Henry the Fourth : it is of stone, and of suf-' ficient size for immersion. The sculptures upon it are well raised and exceedingly curious : its figure is octagonal, and on each face is a nich containing a representation of some saint. The effigies of St. Christopher, St. George, and St. Katherine, are at this time in the most perfect state of pre- servation : at each corner between the saints are angels* heads, and below quatrefoils, with a sculptured fillet run- ning quite round the Font. The church is a spacious edifice, dedicated to St. Mary, and consists of a nave, chancel, and aisles, with an embattled tower at the west end. The roof is of timber, and has been ornamented with paintings, of which there are now considerable remains. The sepulchral memorials are numerous, most of which have had their brasses taken from them. Among the eminent persons who have been interred here are Roger d' Armory, lord of Standon ; his lady, Elizabeth, daughter of Gilbert de Clare, earl of Glocester, the foundress of Clare-Hall, Cambridge ; siv Thomas Bouchier, son of Henry, first earl of Essex ; and sir Richard Fanshaw, bart. who was born at Ware, 1607. He received hib education at Cambridge, and having en- THE FONT IN WARE CHURCH. creased his knowledge by travelling into foreign countries, was appointed ambassador to the court of Spain by Charles the First. In the civil war he returned to England and took a very active part in the royal cause, and in 1644 had the degree of L.L D. conferred on him, by the university of Oxford. At the battle of Worcester, in 1651, he was taken prisoner by the parliament's army. The rigours of his con- finement brought on him a severe illness, on which he was permitted to retire into the country, after engaging not to extend his walks beyond the circuit of five miles. Ware-Park was the place of his residence, and here he employed his time in various poetic translations. In 1 659 he went to Breda, and received the honour of knighthood from Charles the Second. After the restoration he was sent on several important mis- sions, and died at Madrid in 1666, being at that lime am- bassador to the court of Spain. [.Z^^-i^^ti^J r/ -/ % ^ # .s I 02 3 J^ CANTERBURY CASTLE, KENT. The ruins of the Castle are situated on the south west side of the city of Canterbury, near the entrance from Ashford. There are some fabulous accounts of a castle, in this situa- tion, built by Julius Caesar ; but the one, of which the pre- sent remains formed a part, was erected soon after the Norman Conquest, and most probably by king William him- self: the Doomsday book proves it to have been standing at the time of the Survey. The outer walls included an extent of somewhat more than four acres, and were surrounded by a ditcb, but the former has been mostly pulled down and the latter filled up. The present remains, which are those of the Keep, are in form nearly square, the length being eighty-eight feet and the breadth eighty : the height of the standing walls is about fifty feet ; how high they may have originally been, is at this time uncertain, as the upper part is destroyed. The. interior was divided into three parts by two walls, which were continued from the foundations to the roof: the communi- cations, between the different parts, were maintained by galleries formed in the thickness of the walls, and going en- tirely round the fortress. The best suit of apartments appear to have been on the third floor, where the architecture is more ornamental and the openings for the admission of CANTERBURY CASTLE. light is larger, being windows, the floors below containing only small loop-holes. The original entrance appears to have been at the west end, where there is a large arch at a considerable height, now blocked up, which communicated with an interior door-way, enriched by sculpture in its mouldings: the present entrances have evidently been formed by enlarging some of the loop-holes. The principal walls are eleven feet thick. The outworks of this Castle were extended by Henry the Second, who caused certain land, held by one Azelitha, of the prior of Christ church, to be taken in to fortify it, and for which certain other lands were assigned her in exchange. In the twelfth year of Henry the Third, Hubert de Burgh, earl of Kent, had a grant of the castles of Canterbury, Dover, and Rochester, for life ; he was likewise made governor of all the three, but during the same reign he was removed to make way for Stephen de Segrave. In the time of Edward the First this Castle was used as a common gaol, and it continued to be so appropriated till the latter end of the reign of Elizabeth, and the assizes for the county were held here frequently. James the First, in the latter part of his reign, granted this Castle and its appurtenances to the Watsons ; since then they have had several possessors, both by purchase and otherwise : the present owner of the Castle is Mr. Thomas Cooper, who resides near it. At this Castle there was a well of good masonry ascending to the top of the Keep, and communicating with every floor by open arches. An extensive malthouse and other build- ings have been erected on the- site of the wall and ditch, and parts of the Castle yard ; the north-western division CANTERBURY CASTLE. of the Castle was, during the late war, occupied as a dep6t for military stores. About three hundred yards from the Castle to the south-east is a high artificial mount of a circular form, bounded on the south by the city wall, which seems to have been formed into an angle purposely to include this eminence. Its origin is traditionally assigned to the Danes ; yet however the name of Dane John Hill, or Dungeon Hill, may be supposed to favour this tradition, it is presumed to be the work of a still more distant period. About two-thirds of the base was encompassed formerly by a broad and d<:ep ditch, that has been recently filled up, when the ancient and venerable cha- racter of this eminence was wholly destroyed. At the same time the sides of the hill were cut into serpentine walks, so as to admit of an easy ascent to the summit, and were also connected with a terrace formed upon the top of the high rampart within the wall, and extending to the length of six hundred yards : additional walks were made in the adjacent field, and a double row of limes planted at the sides of the principal one, which is about three hundred and seventy yards long, and unites with the terrace-walk at each end. Several Roman and other coins were found in filling up the ditch, together with a spear head and some metal spurs. The views of the city of Canterbury and the surrounding country, from the summit of the mount, are extremely fine, as well as from the terrace, which occasions this spot to be much frequented in fine weather, and it is now become the most fashionable promenade in Canterbury ; but however these alterations may be considered as improvements by the 1 CANTERBURY CASTLE. many, they cannot be contemplated hy the antiquary with- out regret. Directly opposite to the Dungeon-Hill on the south, and abutting on the high road, which runs close to the city ditch, is the manor of Dane John, or Dungeon, so called from time immemorial. Here also are some remains of very ancient fortifications, which seem to have formed a kind of outwork for the better defence of the Dungeon-Hill, and consist of a lesser mount, now divided into two parts, with a ditch and embankment. i> // ' ' (^ C ^^,H^ /utXp>ai^ €■ ^-^^p — CASTLE CAMPBELL, PERTHSHIRE. Nothing can be more solemn and majestic than the scenery which surrounds this Castle. It is situated on a steep peninsulated rock, between and under vast mountains. From its dreariness it has, for many ages, been called the Castle of Gloom : and the names of the adjacent places are analogous to it ; for it stands in the parish of Dolor, is bounded by the glen of Care, and washed by the burn of Sorrow. It, together with the surrounding demesnes, be- longs to the noble family of Argyle, who anciently had here their occasional residence ; but a considerable portion of it is now fallen down, and other parts are nodding over their foundations. The Tower is yet nearly entire. The marquis of Montrose was its first destroyer, as he caused it to be burnt in 1644, and since then it has never been inhabited by its noble owners. When or by whom this venerable pile was first erected, is VOL. I. c CASTLE CAMPBELL. not known ; but the ruins plainly sbew that it had been designed for a place of strength, and therefore was most pro- bably built in those turbulent days of old when family feuds so unhappily prevailed among the Scotch barons : neither is the precise period known when it came into the possession of the Argyle family. Here is an extraordinary contrivance for procuring water, under cover : a passage is cut down through the rock to the side of the burn at the bottom of the glen. The passage is said to be, from bottom to top, more than one hundred feet deep, and is six feet wide. The design of it was to get water conveyed or brought up from the burn in time of siege. This seems the more likely, aS it appears to have been cut out with steps, which are now mostly filled up with the earth. /ZJ-- ■• F /y- f/tzv-^Jf^*^^^ V: 3 ST. NICHOLAS^ HOSPITAL, H^RBLEDOIFN, KENT. This Hospital was originally founded, in the year 1084, by archbishop Landfranc, for male and female lepers : he endowed it, in conjunction with the hospital of St. John, at Canterbury, with certain lands, which produced an income of about 1401. annually. Many benefactions were afterwards made by different persons, and at the period of the dissolution the yearly produce of its estates was valued at 1 12l. 15s. 7d. Wm. Somner, in his Antiquities of Canterbury, published in 1640, has the following observations relative to the found- ing and endowing of this Hospital. " Archbishop Richard, Becket's immediate successor, in a charter (which I have seen of his to this and St. John's hospital, relating first their erec- tion by his predecessor Landfranc,) shows that he endowed them with sevenscore pounds per annum, to issue and arise out of his mannors of Reculver and Bocton ; that is, to either hospitall, after an equall division, 70 lib. per annum. This now was the original indowment of both these hospitalls, with which the same Richard, finding them scarce well able to subsist, in augmentation, added 20 lib. per annum more, to their former means, payable out of Reculver parsonage. Which 160 lib. continued afterwards constantly paid unto them, and unaltered, untill archbishop Kilwardbys dayes. For so it appears by an exemplification made of certain ST. NICHOLAS HOSPITAL. charters of those hospitalls, under the seal of Thomas Chicheley, Dr. of the decrees, archdeacon of Canterbury, and prothonotary to the pope, and signed by bis Registrorum Custos and Actorum Scriba — namely, that from Becket's time downward untill Kilwardby's, these two hospitalls had, and received by equal! division yearely, 240 marks or 160 lib. of the archbishops' chamber, saving that 20 lib. of it was paid them of the parson of Reculver. This Kilwardby mlsliking, withdraws their stipend, and in lieu assigns and appropriates over to them his parsonage of Reculver, with the chapels annexed. But for some inconveniences (that of the leprous condition of the people of this Hospitall, the main, rendering them both unable and unfit to attend and intermeddle in a t ithery especially so remote) his next successor, John Peckham, alters and revokes what he (Kilwardby) had done, and redintegrates the hospitalls into their former estate. Archbishop Stratford afterwards gets the king, (Ed. 3,) of whom this parsonage held in capite by his charter, to appropriate it meusa arcbi- piscopali,,to the archbishop's table, yet charged with the old payment or stipend ; which Simon Islip afterwards, with con- sent of the chapter, the prior, and convent, confirms unto them, and that (for the better strengthening of their title, main- tainable as yet only by customary right, having no sufficient jus scriptum to show) by his charter in writing, whereby to recover it, if at any time denied or detained ; ever since which time they have peaceably enjoyed the same. These things I thought good the rather to deduce, that I might vindicate that false aspersion wherewith some of the old people of these hospitalls, ignorant altogether of the premised passages, are wont to deprave some of the archbishops of former times. 1- N. .^ -^*c ST. NICHOLAS HOSPITAL. for depriving tliem of tbis and that mannor ; and I know not what other'tneans and indowaients, wherewith, they say and will tell you, their houses were at first so richly indowed, as they cannot think their prior of old time, any lesse man forsooth than a lord prior, I wot. But this others have told them, and they think they may take it up upon trust and say as much after them. 1 shall not insist on the specification of the other re- venues of this hospitall, whereof by the charity of former times, it had a pretty competency : Eilgar at Bourne, and John of Tonford, neighbours to the place, in their time b»:ing the prime (I take it) of the secular benefactors, as king Hen. 3 was of the royall, who gave to the poore here 20 marks a yeare, out of the city fee-farme, payable by the chamber. *' This Hospitall's ancient governour, now called a master, was a deane. For to a very ancient deed of the Hospitall (amongst other witnesses) one Benedict, in the first place, subscribes with this addition of, tune temporis decani di sancto Nicolao. Pope John 23, by his bull, discharged this Hos- pitall of payment of tithes de hortis, virgultis et animalium nutrimentis." Edward the Sixth, by letters of Inspecimus dated in his second year, confirmed all the preceding grants that had been made to the members of this Hospital ; and through the various donations that have been made since, their re- venues have been increased to about 250l. per annum. The number of inmates at present are twenty-six : they are con- sidered as freeholders, and enjoy distinct privileges as such. The entire establishment is for a master, fifteen in-brothers, and the like number of sisters, one of the former being called ST. NICHOLAS HOSPIfAL. the prior, and one of the latter the prioress; the same number of out-brothers and sisters, and a reader, who is a clerk in orders. The buildings of the Hospital are of brick, and were re- erccted chiefly in the time of James the Second. The chapel or church is of Norman architecture, and no doubt the origi- nal building erected in the time of Landfranc. Somner calls it " the church of the parish of St. Nicholas, at Herl)al- downe : the bounds, extent, and continent whereof, I have not hitherto met with ; onely once I saw a deed registred in the lieger of Eastb. Hosp. 400 yeares old and upwards, men- tioning a piece of land abutting eastward to the highway, leading to the Barten of Westgate (.i. Westgate- Court) from Tonford, therein said to lie in the parish of St. Nicholas of Hcrbald. A parsonage it once was ; payeth procurations to this day as a parsonage, and by the same name was, in the yeare 1292, at the general valuation made of all ecclesiastical livings in this diocese, valued at 9 marks per annum, (more than most of the parsonages in and near the city were rated at,) and accordingly the tenths set at xijs. And the ancient incumbent thereof (as parson and parsonage are relatives) was a rector, or in the phrase of our municipals, a parson. Anno 37, Hen. 3." This church, after various gifts had been made to the rectory, was annexed and appropriated to the hospital of Eastbridge in Canterbury, by bishop Stratford, in the year i342, in the fifteenth year of Edward the Third. " But," continues Somner, " because it should seem that the church had been the hospitall church of St. Nicholas, wherein the poore there had the sacrements and sacrementals ministered ST. NICHOLAS HOSPITAL. unto them, by the incumbent for the time being, (it was built for them, as archbishop Parker says, by Lanclfranc, their founder ;) the appropriator, Stratford, to prevent and provide against all damage and detriment, which the appro- priation might occasion to St. Nicholas Hospital, obligeth Eastbridge hospitall to the finding (not of a vicar, the living was too slender to maintain one, but) of a chaplain who should officiate and minister to them in divinis. In this, archbishop Wittlesey afterwards finding some inconvenience, anno 1371, erects a perpetual chautcry ; the chantery-priest whereof (because of the danger of conversing with the hos- pitallers, being leprous people many of them) seated and housed apart, viz. over against the Hospitall gate, and in- dowed with a competency of revenue, partly from the one and partly from the other hospitall, was charged with the cure of soules ; and to that end tied to perpetual residence upon it, as the instrument of that chantries, erection, and donation, to be sought in my appendix, will shew. In this wise things stood with the church of St. Nicholas afterwards, untill the latter end of Hen. 8 or beginning of Ed. 6 reigne, about which time the chantery and chantery-priest vanished. Since when, the church continuing to the Hospitall, the poore are served there in divinis, by one in orders, a member of the house." The church consists of a nave and chancel with aisles open- ing to the nave, and a square tower at the south-west arigle. The south aisle is separated from the nave by two simicircular and one sharp-pointed arch, rising from octagonal columns, one of which has a fluted capital and a large square base, with trefoils sculptured at its angles. The chancel is divided by ST. NICHOLAS HOSITTAL. boards up to the roof from the rest of the church, aud is thr only part uow used for divine worship. The roof is of timber, and has been divided into pannels, which have been orna- mented with stars and Gothic roses, upon a dark ground. Saxon letters are to be found in the windows here and there. The pavement has formerly been glazed tiles, some of which are ornamented. The seats are very ancient, and so is the font ; it is of an octagonal form, with several mouldings to- wards the upper part, the lowermost of which has various figures of animals, &c. on its different faces, in high relief. The body and aisles of this church are in a very ruinous condition, the ivy protruding through the windows and roof; rubbish and filth lying about in all directions, and a great part of the pavement of the south aisle gone. /'j'/ '>if,r^ -^-^K^',jf:fr' ROMAN-SCULPTURED STONE, TRINITY COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE. This beautiful and highly interesting work of art was presented, with a number of Roman altars, &c. to Trinity College in 1750, by sir John Cotton: the collection was made by sir Robert Cotton, and this stone, with others, brought from the Roman station at Risingham, in Northum- berland : the inscription on it is rendered thus in Horsely's BritianiaRomana: *' NuminibusAugustorumCohors Quarta Gallorum equitum fecit." He likewise gives the following particulars respecting it, whilst it remained at the residence of the Cotton family. *' The original of this is also at Connington, and placed above the summer-house door : the sculpture has suffered by the weather, but the inscription is still very legible : the emperors in honour of whom it has been erected, I take to be Severus and Caracalla, who were much hereabout, and I believe were possessed of this very station : it is certain this compliment is given them in the inscription, " Dui Brigan- tum." This cohort seems to have been like a flying squadron, for by inscription we find them in several places : as to the cohorts equitum in general, enough has been said of them already in a former book : the inscription is included in u kind of corona, or rather an octagon circumscribed by a square moulding : there are ornaments of eagles' heads on ROMAN-SCULPTURED STOXE. each side, above which is the appearance of two faces, pro- bably designed for those of the emperors referred to by the inscription : Mars and Victory, in their usual dress and ap- pearance, are set in a nich one at each end of the stone ; the other ornaments seem only to be such as pleased the fancy of the sculptor : the victory treads on a globe, and no doubt the general meaning is, that the emperors had waired suc- cessfully, and gained the victory over tlie whole world." i A BISHOP OF WINCHESTER'S PALACE, SOUTHTFARK, SURRY. To judge of the extent and grandeur of this vast pile when perfect, an intelligent spectator need only visit it in its present state of ruin. Neither time nor fire has been able to extinguish the marks of venerable antiquity. It is said by Stowe to have been built in the twelfth century l)y Wm. GifFord, tlien bishop of the see of Winchester, upon a piece of land belonging to the prior of Berraondsey, to whom a quit rent was paid, as is evident by a writ directed to the barons of the exchequer in 1366", for the payment of eight pounds due for the late bishops of Winchester's lodgings in South wark. This Palace was the residence of the prelates during their attendance on parliament, and when pefect was undoubtedly one of the most magnificent «)f its kind in or near to London. It continued to be occasionally occupied by them till nearly the beginning of the seventeenth century, when it was deserted for the episcopal palace at Chelsea. Many of the acts of the bishops of Winchester are dated from this house. In the civil wars, Winchester Palace was for some time made a prison for the Royalists. Sir Francis I)o J /^V^c4^/?^^^>-^*:? A.. HERSTMONCEAUX CASTLE, SUSSEX. The remains of the ("astle of Herstmonceaux stand in a pleasing part of the county of Sussex. It was built by sir Roger Fynes, who lies buried in Herstnionceaux church under a flat stone, ornamented with a brass. The Castle walls enclose three courts, a large one and two that are com- paratively small. The entrance to the internal parts is under the gate-house fronting the south ; on the north- side is the hall. By a survey of this Castle and domains taken in the reign of queen Elizabeth, and which is still to be seen at Herst- monceaux, it appears that the moat which encompasses it on the south, west, and north sides, and is now dry, was formerly full of water ; but was drained, together with a great pool on the east side, for the purpose of improving the air, as the health of the inhabitants was found to be affected by the great quantity of stagnant water there collected. The walls of the Castle are entirely of brick : it was esteemed one of the compleatest ancient buildings of that material in the kingdom. Sir Roger Fynes, who erected this edifice, was succeeded by his eldest son Sir Richard Fynes, who espoused the lady Joan, daughter of sir Thomas Dacre : he was succeeded in this estate by Thomas, his grandson, who likewise was sue- HERSTMONCKAUX CASTLE. ccedid by iiis {jrandsoD, Tliomas lord Dacrc, who suffered death in coDStquence of a sorrant of sir Nicholas Pelham being killed in a fray, wbi^h arose from h)r(l Dacre and a party of his friends determining to take a deer on the lands of sir Nicholas : soaie of theui were met by his park-keepers, and the blow for which lord Dacre suffered, and which occa- sioned the death of the keeper, was given in the absence of lord Dacre. This estate was purchased from the Dacrc family by Naylor, esq. who made it his principal residence: he mar- ried a sister of the late duke of Newcastle ; but dying without issue, he left it to his sister, the wife of Wm. Hare, bi&liop of Chichester, and her heirs. The bishop almost constantly resided here, and it is now the prof^erty and seat of Francis Hare Naylor, esq. his son. ■ - ■* r 'K. tz/^pz7r H'lp^e/^ cA^^^n>^/ <^':^'^ife NORTH DOOK, WISSETT CHURCH, SUFFOLK. WissF.TT is a small village, situated in the hundred ot BIytliiiig and deanery of Dunwich, about two miles from H.ilesworth. In A. D. 1104, the manor of Wisselt was in possession of Alan, earl of Brittany and Richmond : from hliM it passed to Everard, bishop of Norwich, by whom, iu 1 ! 20, it was granted to the adjacent abbey of Rumburgh. The Church is a small structure, dedicated to Saint An- drew, and part of it bears evident marks of great antiquity : the site on which it stands was occupied by a more ancient building, of which only the Western part remains. The Tower at the west-end is circular, such being pe- culiar to several churches in this country: its erection is attributed to the Danes : the North and South Doors are of early Saxon architecture : but the remainder of the Church, consisting of a body and chancel, having pointed windows, was erected at a later period. The entrance on the North side is formed by two circular receding arches, supported by four spiral pillars with orna- mented capitals, but no bases : the external arch consists of three rows of alternate semi-cylinders of the bilkt moulding, which i.s continued from the archivault to the ground : within this moulding and a plain rib is an ornament of united NORTH DOOR, WISSETT CHURCH. senii-ciixles ruDDing round the arch : the iuner arch is deco- rated with a single zigzag moulding. This Porch was formerly used as a vestry-room, but is now allotted by a bricklayer, dressed in a little brief authority, for the reception of bricks and lime : the door-way is at present in tolerable preservation, on account of the porch protecting it from the effects of the weather ; but the vile purposes to which it is now appropriated renders its speedy demolition almost inevitable. The Southern Door is decorated with grotesque heads and a zigzag moulding ; but this being used as the entrance to the Church, and more exposed, the ornaments are not so perfect. A. //, ..^.^^^ MH'^' DOUNE CASTLE, PERTHSHIRE. There is no doubt that the word Donue is derived from the Gaelic word Dun, signifying around hill, or rising ground, fur the castle stands on high ground, at the conflux of the Teith and the Ardoch, which would always be called the luound or hill. The Castle of Doune is a very noble and extensive edifice, and nature pointed out the height, or pe- ninsula on which it stands, as a place of great strength ; at least it must always have been so considered in ancient times, Vt'hen the art of war was so different from what it is at present, and it is more than probable that this spot was occupied by some fortification long before the present edifice was erected. This is more than probable, when it is con- sidered that the present castle was built by one of the earls of Monteith, at the time when Monteith was a lordship -of regality. It is natural to presume that the family would have called the edifice the Castle of Monteith, after the lordship to which it belonged, but, having called it Doune, we may suppose that this was the ancient name of the spot whereon this building was erected. The castle is a massive square building ; the walls are forty feet high, and ten thick. The tower is erected on the north-cast corner, and what remains of it is about eighty feet in height, but its heavy thickness hinders it from ap- DOUNE CASTLE. pcariiig lofty. The uorth-west corner of the castle was for- merly used as a residence of the family, as appears by remains of aacient magnificence and ornament still to be traced. The outward walls inclose a spacious square, each side whereof is ninety feet. The great entrance is on the north : the ancient iron gate and bars still remain entire. There are several dungeons on the ground floor, which appear to have been formerly used as prisons. On each side of the entrance gate- way, and after being introduced into the before-mentioned great square, the ascents to the tower, and to the chambers used as a residence by the family, are directly opposite ; these were once covered by a roof, supported by stone pillars : the whole is now in ruins. On ascending the stairs leading to the chambers, you enter a lobby that divides the kitchen from the great hall: the hall is sixty-three feet long, and twenty- five feet wide : it is now entirely unroofed. The kitchen has a chimney extending from one side of the room to the other, being supported by a strong arch ; it is still entire. On ascend- ing the stairs leading to the interior of the tower, the first room you enter is spacious with a groined roof, and a large cbimney, containing a pillar in its centre in front. This room communicates with the great hall at its north-west corner, and is supposed to have been the family dining or sitting-room. There are several other apartments in the upper stories of the tower. Descending by a narrow stone stair from the south-east corner of the dining-room by a sub- terranean passage, you enter a cell, or dungeon, that lies below the north side of the dining-room, into which no light is admitted, except what it borrows from a small room above, through a small square hole in the roof, left for the purpose DOUNE CASTLE. of preventing suffocation, and to let down the scanty pittance of the captive. Tradition (and we iiave nothing more certain to offer) reports that the Castle of Douue was built by Murdac, duke of Albany, and earl of Monteith and Fife ; yet (he account of the life of this unfortunate nobleman leaves great room to doubt how far it was possible for him to rear such an edifice. At that time, no doubt, the power of such a nobleman was great, and having his dependants and vassals ready at liis call, he could do more than many other nobles in a short time ; but such a vast building as Dounc Castle could not, even with all his powers, have been finished for many years. He was the grandson of Robert the Second, king of Scotland : his father Robert was created earl of Monteith in 1370 ; duke of Albany in 1398 ; and succeeded in 1406 to the government of the realm of Scotland, which he retained for fifteen years. In the year 1401, Murdac was taken prisoner by the English at the battle of Homeldon, and detained till exchanged for one of the Percy family, in 1411. On the 3d of Sept. 1420, he succeeded his father in the government, but, being of a weak mind, he resigned at the end of four years, and most likely, if he had had time, he did not possess the ability or disposition to erect so extensive a dwelling as the Castle of Doune : perhaps tradition has given the act of the father to the son. The resignation of the government by Murdac, was followed by an accusation of high treason against him and his two sous ; they were tried, together with the earl of Lennox, his wife's father, at Stirling Castle, condemned^ and afterwards beheaded. The Castle of Dounc was seized with the other estates of DOUNE CASTLE. Murdac, by the king, and remained annexed to the crown lill the year 1502, when Margaret, the daughter of Henry the Seventh, king of England, was married to James the Fourth, king of Scotland, and got settled on her, in life-rent, the Castle of Doune, and certain lands in Monteith. After the death of James, she married Henry, Lord Methren, a descendant of the unfortunate Murdac, and immediately after the marriage, the queen, with the consent of her son, king James the Fifth, and of her husband. Lord Methven, granted to James Stewart, a younger brother of her husband, and ancestor of the family of Moray, the custody of the Castle of Doune for his life, and which right was some years afterwards converted into a feu to him and his heirs, by the king. This office had been before enjoyed by the family of Edmonstone, of Duntreath, and occasioned a deadly quarrel betwixt the families, which ended in the assassination of James Stewart by Edmonstone, of Duntreath. But James, the son of the above-named James Stewart, obtained full possession of the castle, and was afterwards created lord Doune, by charter in the year 1581. Since this period the castle has been part of the possessions of the earl of Moray's family without interruption. — In the rebellion of the year 1745, Doune Castle was for some time occupied by the rebels, who planted a twelve-pounder in one of the windows, and several swivels on the parapets : these guns were brought from a merchant's vessel which had fallen into their hands. On the castle being quitted by the rebels, an engineer was sent down by government to survey it, intending to have it fortified and repaired, if capable of being made tenable ; but it is probable that he made such a report as induced the DOUNB CASTLE. ministry to give up the idea. It has since been neglected and sufiPered to fall to ruin. The ancient name of the parish of Doune was Kilmadock, Avhich is evidently derived from cill or kil, a Gaelic word, signifying a church-yard, and Madock, a saint who was buried here, and whose place of interment, a most lonely spot, is still pointed out, and near to this place the paro- chial church formerly stood, but, having become ruinous, a new one was erected in the town of Doune in 1756, and since then the old name of Kilmadock has given way almost entirely to Doune. The church lies low, but the greatest portion of the grounds in this parish command grand views of Benlomond and the other neighbouring mountains, and a beautiful prospect of the Castle of Stirling, and the fine country that enriches the banks of the winding Forth. Nor is the scenery less beautiful on the course of the romantic Teath, which washes the sides of the castle we have here described, and rolls onward to the pic- turesque groves of Blair-Drummond, beyond which the eye of the beholder might tire in the almost endless variety of the objects in view, was not its fatigue relieved by the stu- pendous hills of Tough, Gargunnock, and Kippen, that ex- tend in a noble ridge from east to west, for the space of twenty miles. ' The town of Doune is plentifully supplied with springs of soft water, that never dry in the warmest summer. It con- sists of one street, running from the bridge over the Ardoch a considerable distance west, to a point where the roads from the bridge over the Teith and Callender meet : on this point noUNE CASTLE. a neat market-cross is erected, and passing tlte cross, llie streets divide with the roads, so that the ground plan of Doune would form something like the letter Y. 6i^&^t.^A. /iZ/Al />^" x^ / ^l ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH, CANTERBURY, KENT. The ecksiastical history of Canterbury is peculiarly im- portant, not only when locally considered, but likewise from its close connection with the general annals of the kingdom. In this city, and its immediate vicinity, the mental darkness of the Saxons was first illuminated by the light of revelation, and the barbarism of their character ameliorated by the mild tenets of the Christian doctrine. It was not, indeed, in the time of Augustine, although he is honoured with the illus- trious appellation of apostle of Britain, that the enlightening beams of Christianity first shed their salutary influence on this island. Even in the Roman times, considerable progress had been made in the conversion of the inhabitants ; yet the ferocious wars that preceded the departure of the Romans, and continued with but little intermission for up- wards of a century afterwards, gave a complete triumph to Paganism. Previously to this, however, various Chris- VOL. I. K sr. MARTINS CHURCH, CANTERBURY. tian churches had been erected in different cities ; and of these, the Church of St. Martin is traditionally stated to be one of the most ancient. It is asserted to have been origi- nally built by the Christians of the Roman soldiery as eaily as the second century, at the time when Lucius, the first Christian king, reigned, who lived in the year 182. The venerable Bcde, in one part of his Ecclesiastical His- tory, says it was built by the believing Romans ; and again, afterwards in the same work, he states it, but rather differently — " Antiquitus facta dum adhuc Romani Britan- niam incolerent"^ — that is, in ancient times, whilst as yet the Romans inhabited Britain. This fabric, it is presumed, was still standing wben Augustine, who is honoured with the illustrious appellation of apostle of Britain, was invited to Canterbury by King Etbelbert ; and was, by him, con- tinued to be used for the proraulgatioi> of the Christian worship. The mission of this apostle to Britain is said to have originated with pope Gregory the First, whose feelings had been operated upon by the sight of some young children of English parentage, who had been sent to Rome, sold from that part of the island called the kingdom of Deira. Gregory was then archdeacon of Rome, and being much affected at the state of the Angles that could thus suffer them to expose their own progeny to sale, he resolved to attempt their conversion in person, but his design was superseded by local circumstances. Being made pope he deputed Augus- tine, with forty other Benedictines, to execute his worthy and long-meditated project. The state of Britain was then favourable for the under- ''T'- ST. MARTIN S CHURCH, CANTERBURY. taking of Pope Gregory, as Etiielbert, king of Kent, was at the head of the Saxon heptarchy, and had married Bertha, daughter of Cbaribert, king of Paris. Previous to the marriage, Ethelbert engaged that the princess, who had been educated as a Christian, should be allowed the free exercise of her religion. Her prudence and other good qua- lities won the full esteem of Ethelbert, who was thence in- duced to listen to her frequent conversations on the truths of the gospel. These circumstances prepared the way for the success of Augustine, who landed in the isle of Thanet in the year 596, and immediately dispatched a messenger to Ethelbert to inform him of his coming, and the purpose of his mission. The king visited Augustine at the isle, and after hearing all that he had to say, replied to him to the following effect, according to Bede. — " Your proposals are noble and your promises inviting, yet I cannot resolve upon quitting the religion of my ancestors for one that appears to me supported only by the testimony of persons who are en- tire strangers to me. Since, however, as I perceive that you have undertaken so long a journey on purpose to impart to us those things which you deem most important and valuable, you shall not be sent away without some satisfaction. I will take care that you shall be treated with civility, and supplied with all things necessary and convenient ; and if any of my people, convinced by your arguments, desire to embrace your faith, I will not oppose it." He then, at the request of the queen, invited the missionaries to Canterbury : the queen assigned to them, for their use, her own chapel, which was the ancient church. built by the Roman Christians, and now re-consecrated and dedicated to St. Martin. ST. MAKTIN S CHURCH, CANTERBURT. The Church of St. Martin is situated cm a rising ground, and consists of a nave and chancel only, with a low tower at the west end, supported by strong buttresses ; and appears to have been constructed out of the ruins of a more ancient building, the walls being composed of a rude mixture of flints, stones, and Roman tiles and bricks. In the walls of the chancel, the Roman materials are regularly arranged ; a circumstance that helps to support the opinion, which is pretty current, that this part of the structure is a portion of the early Christian church, as it was first built. The style of the architecture, however, is evidence to the contrary, and it is very probable that the entire edifice was erected within the reign of Henry the Third. The east window is divided by two muUions, and on each side of the chancel is a plain lancet window. Mr. Deeble, the artist, whose drawing and engraving of the very ancient and curious font in this church does him great credit, has favoured the Editor with the following remarks : " The font has the appearance of great antiquity, being large enough for immersion ; it is fixed into the pavement not far from the west end of the church, and is of a circular form, having the exterior divided into four compartments — the two lower ornamented with irregular intersecting circles, and the third presenting a range of intersecting circular arches : the ornaments of the fourth, or upper compartments, being various, consisting of irregular semicircular and tri- angular intersections, with other carvings, seem to admit of the probable supposition that this part of the font has suf- fered dilapidation, and acquired its present irregular ap- -^,ti£-r^ ^-t^'Tt^ ::J^^c'^l(iy.^-^y^^ i^^/'-> <7/j^/^t/y. jam^iliir-MtB-aprietur^^lfyirS^^^'^JfrClarisira^&ia^^ ST. MARTIN S CHURCH, CANTERBURY. pearance from the carelessness of its repairers : and indeed this hypothesis would gain considerable force, if applied to the whole external contour of the font, which evinces a great want of union and regularity throughout. " The material of which the font is composed, is what is usually called Caen Stone, to which age has given a deep yellow tint : pieces of Roman brick occupy the interstices, which are broad and iiregular." The monuments in this church are not very numerous. Before the altar-rails is a marble slab, inscribed to the me- mory of sir Henry Palmer, knight, of Howlets, in Kent, who died in December 16"59. On another slab is a brass well engraved, to the memory of Thomas Stoughton, gent, of Ash, who died in June 1591 : he is represented in ar- mour, with a sword and dagger, and at each corner of the slab are his arms, viz. a saltire between four staples, in fess an escalop, a crescent for difference. On a third slab are brasses of a male and a female, with their arms above ; and below them is a group of six children, with this inscription : JSequie^cunt ^uh ^iarmore Corpora.naictaen^lFraun- cc?, ^Sencrosi, tt 3^anar, upori? eiu^, fiiiat Wiilitimi ©uiUer, armi0e, muticr 4, toir j:°. fanuarii i587 <5e- CE.^^^erunt ; 3tnimae code fumitur. Against the south wall, within the rails belonging to the altar, is a large tomb and mural monument, with a Latin in- scription, in memory of John Lord Finch, baron of Fordwich, who died in the year 1660, at the age of seventy-seven. Not far from St. Martin's Church, a Roman pavement .// ST. MARTIN S CHURCH, CANTERBURY. was discovered, about a century agOj not more than four feet below the level of the ground. The tesserae were of burnt earth, red, yellow, black, and white : their shape and sizes different j some near an inch orer, and others very small. 4F- >f.Z/cmA^S:^^(z4j^um 0^<^ai.C/i<^h^. i ArtKiJropnaarj.farJjjJji. iu V.'iCLi^ic.yeirSor^ Strut. BEAKESBOURNE CHURCH, KENT. BeakCsbourne, it is supposed, derived its name from the family of Beke, and its situation on the Lesser Stour. In the reign of Henry III. as appears from the Testa de Nevily William de Beke held this manor in grand serjantry by the service of " finding one ship for the king whenever be passed the seas, and presenting to him three marks." In the reign of Henry VI. it was alienated to archbishop Chicheley, and certain trustees, who conveyed it to the priory of Christ Church, lo which it belonged at the dissolution. It was then granted to Thomas Colepeper, esq. the elder, of Bedgbury, who, about three years afterwards, exchanged it for the manor of Bishopsbourne, and other premises, w;ith archbishop Cranmer, and it now forms part of the possessions of the see of Canterbury. The church is in a deplorable state, the tpwer having been partly destroyed, some years ago, by being pulled down, to prevent it from falling : how long it is to remain so is un- known, except to those who have caused the present di- lapidation J and their intentions can only be surmised from the state in which the building is suffered to ap- pear : the two bells exposed, as well as the persons who ring them, to the weather, are still used to call the people to BEAKESBOURNE CHURCH. worship. The church is rather long, considering its height and width ; the chancel end is the lowest. No part of it indicates any thing like the age of the entrance under the north porch, evidently of Saxon architecture : the other parts are of the pointed style of arches, and not of the very earliest date. The interior contains nothing very remarkable. The priors of Christ Church bad a pleasant house and chapel at Bcakesbourne, which, after the dissolutioD, were converted into a palace by archbishop Cramner.. />>/ 'S ■S' /•-- — // mM-^ .^/ CARDIFF CASTLE, GLAMORGANSHIRE. This Castle presents a considerable portion of modern improvement, as it is styled, which was executed under the orders of the late marquis of Bute. The grand architecture of the windows, in the old structure, has been sacrificed for the introduction of some more fashionably square. " That part of the Castle," says Mr. Barber, " which is kept in repair, is a single range of building, and an elegant machi- colated tower overlooking the whole, and frowning defiance on the petty innovations beneath." This tower or keep, exclusive of those towers which flank it, is of an octangular form, appearing from the great breadth of the facets nearly circular, or very slightly angulated within the walls. The summit of the mount, on which the keep stands, affords a fine view of the surrounding country. Cardiff Castle was built by Robert Fitzhamon, in 1110. In a dungeon of the Tower, Robert, duke of Normandy, is said to have been confined nearly thirty years, after being deprived of his sight and inheritance, by his younger brother, Henry I. This castle contains some portraits of persons who have been its lords, and of their relations ; a number of whole- length portraits, by old masters ; two good pictures, by Rom- CARDIFF CASTLE. ney, painted in 1783 ; one very fine portrait, by Vandyke, and another by Kneller ; boys at cards, by Hans Holbein, 1568. Jestin ap Gurgan was the last Welch prince that resided at Cardiff : he held the then castle, and the eastern part of the country, entirely under his subjection. He was con- quered and overthrown by the before-mentioned Robert Fitzhamon and his twelve Norman knights, who were in- vited by Encon, a Welch nobleman, (who was to have been married to Jestin's daughter), and by Jestin, into this coun- try, about the year 1100, for the purpose of assisting them in a quarrel with some neighbouring Welch princes, when a dispute occurring between Jestin and Eucon, the latter per- suaded Fitzhamon to turn his arms against the former, when Jestin was dispossessed, and Fitzhamon, making choice of what he thought proper, divided the rest of Jestin's property t. Y / ■^ •I •! x^ MARGAN ABBEY, GLAMORGANSHIRE. Margam Abbey was founded in 1147, by Robert, earl of Gloucester. Of its small remains, most of the modern writers who have visited speak with that sort of feeling which indicates their regret that so much architectural beauty had been suffered so suddenly to fall to decay. " Alas!" exclaims sir Richard Colt Hoare, on a recent visit to this spot, ** the chapter-bouse, that justly-admired Gothic gem, is no more, since all that rendered it interesting has perished, and the future tourist may exclaim, * Stat nominis umbra.'" This erection is described by Mr. Windham, who visited the spot in 1773, as " an elegant Gothic building, of a date subse- quent to that of the church. Its vaulted roof is perfect, and supported by a clustered column, rising from the centre of the room. The plan of this chapter-house is an exact circle, fifty feet in diameter. The just proportion of the windows, and the delicate ribs of the arches, which all rise from the centre column and the walls, gradually diverg- ing to their respective points above, must please every spectator ; and, what is uncommon in light Gothic edifices, the external elevation 16 as simple and- uniform as its inter- nal, there being no projecting buttresses to disturb or ob- struct its beauty. The preservation of this building led me MARGAN ABBEY. to conclude, that much attention had been giren to the lead which originally covered it ; bat, to my astonishment, I heard that the lead had been long since removed, and that the only security of the roof against the weather was a thick oiled paper, which by no means prevented the rain from penetrating and filtering through the stone work." This edifice was unfortunately left to its fate ; and, soon after the severe frosts of 1799, the roof fell in : thus one of the finest speci- mens of Gothic architecture in this county was lost. The parish church, once the abbey, or conventual church of Margan, exhibits a neat example of mixed circular and pointed architecture. The western front is much admired : its arches are circular ; the pillars slender and filleted, and ornamented with singular capitals. &./ /y. BOTHALL CASTLE, NOR THUMBERLAND. Thx remains of this once-grand baronial structure stand in a picturesque situation, and consist chiefly of the great gateway, flanked on the north side by two polygonal towers, and on the south-west angle, by a square turret. From the towers, the outward wall extends along the brink of the emi- nence in a circular form, enclosing the area, and the remains of the interior buildings of the castle : this enclosure con- tains about half an acre. To the north-west of the gateway was formerly another tower, pulled down about a century ago, called Ogle's Tower. The scite of this castle to the south is very lofty ; on the brink of a rock, whose foot is washed by the river Wansbeck : the east and west sides of the eminence have been defended by a moat. The towers of the gateway are the most modern part of the building. The outward gate was defended by a port- cullis : in the arching of the roof of the gateway are three -quare apertures, from whence the garrison could annoy the assailants when they had gained the first gate. On the right hand of the entrance is a passage and staircase. In the south-west tower, at the foot of the stairs, is a door into the prison, which is not so horrible an enclosure as most of those seen in baronial castles ; it is above ground, and closely arched, having narrow apertures, like loop-holes, to admit BOTHALL CASTLE. light and air from tlve passage in the gateway. Opposite to the stairs, on the other side of the gateway, is the large hall, and over the gateway is the state apartment, which is lighted by four windows, none of them of any considerable size. — The walls of this apartment are so thick, that the recesses formed for the windows have stone seats on each side for six persons. From the principal window, which is on the north side of the building, there is a most beautiful view of the town of Bothall, the church, and a narrow but delightful valley, through which flows the Wansbeck. On each side ef this principal window, is a door leading to the chambers of the flanking towers. The spacious fire-place is to the east. Three large stones cover the apertures that open upon the passage of the gateway. The rooms above the state apart- ment are in a more ruinous state ; their forms are not now to he ascertained. On the exterior front of the gateway are several shields of arms, arranged in the following order : In the centre, on a large shield, are the arms of England and France quarterly ; those of England taking the first quarter. The other shields contain the arras of the Grays, one of which family was the consort of Edward IV. ; the arms of the Bertrams and their alliances, the Percys, Dacres, Veseys, Darcys, and Hastings. On the tower, on the right hand of the gateway, ate four shields, the chief of which bears the arms of the Ogles, but this, as well as the others, are greatly injured by time. In the centre, on the battlement, is the figure of a man in stone, in the attitude of sounding a horn ; on the right hand tower is another figure, holding a ball between his hands : these figures are much mutilated. ^^ .V ^ ?• ^- •fl 1 5 ^ "1 BOTHALL CASTLE. The Barony of Botliall belonged, soon after the Norman conquest, to the family of the Bertrams, and so continued until the latter part of the reign of Edward III. when Robert Bertram dying without male issue, his daughter and heiress, Helen, married Sir Robert Ogle, of Ogle, Knight, and trans- ferred this Barony to his family. Robert, their son, after the death of his mother, settled it upon his younger son John : his paternal estate he bequeathed to his eldest son Robert, who suflfered his brother to enjoy the Barony of Bothall but a short time only ; for, soon after his father's death, with two hundred armed men, he took possession of the Castle, under pretence of its being his birth-right ; but on complaint to parliament, a writ was issued to the Sheriff of Northumber- land, directing him to reinstate the complainant, and com- manding Robert to appear at Westminster, on a certain day, to answer for this misdemeanor. John Ogle afterwards took the name of Bertram, was knighted, and several times Sheriff of Northumberland in the reign of Henry VI. The family of Ogle was of great antiquity in the county of Northumberland, where they possessed a great property an- tecedent to their intermarriage with the heiress of the Ber- trams. Humphrey Ogle, esq. lired at Ogle Castle at the time of the Norman conquest. Cuthbert, the seventh and last lord Ogle, had issue by his wife Catharine, the daughter and heiress of sir Reginald Carnaby, two daughters, Johanna and Catharine; the latter married sir Charles Cavendish, of Wellbeck, in Nottinghamshire. Her son, sir William Caven- dish, was made knight of the Bath by King James I. and after- wards was created baron Ogle, of Ogle, and viscount Mansfield, by the same king ; baron Bertram and Belsover, and earl of BOTHALL CASTLE. Newcastle, in the third year of Charles the First's reign ; marquis of Newcastle, in the nineteenth year of the same reign ; and earl of Ogle, and duke of Newcastle, by Charles II. in 1664. In the civil wars, having espoused the royal cause, and being obliged to fly abroad for refuge, his estates were sequestered, and some of them sold. At the restora- tion, he was reinstated in all his possessions. His only child, a daughter, married John Hollis, duke of Newcastle, who died by a fall from his horse, leaving an only daughter, who married Edward, earl of Oxford and Mortimer. — Bothall, with the other possessions of the family, devolved on their only daughter and heiress, lady Margaret Cavendish Herley, who married William, Duke of Portland, in which family the barony of Bothall remains. pi" SH'-i-T'-!^- ■^ 5*—^-. LANFEY COURT, PEMBROKESHIRE. Not far from the village of Lanfey aie remains of the an- cient episcopal palace of the Bishops of St. David's, a favour- ite spot with most of them. When it first became annexed to the see, is not known, but there is reason to presume that it was at an early period, for Giraldus, relating a stratagem of his namesake, the Castellan, of Pembroke, under Arnulph de Montgomery, says he ordered that a letter, sealed with his own signet, should be found before the house of Wilfrid, then bishop of St. David's, who happened to be in the neighbourhood, as if accidentally dropped, stating that earl Arnulph's assistance would not be wanting (such was the strength of the garrison) for four months to come, which induced the Welch to raise the siege. It is probable that Winfrid's residence was no other than Lanfey. This palace lies low, and cannot be viewed to any advantage. It is a noble ruin, and in a more elevated situation would have a very picturesque appearance. The Chapel was one of its most beautiful parts ; the east window still exhibits the VOL. I. F LANFEY COURT, PEMBHOKESHIRE. most elegant tracery, which induces the supposition that the side windows, though now stripped of their rich mouldings, were of the same character. Bishop Barlow, in the 38th of ilenry VIII. alienated the manor of Lanfey, with the appurtenances, to the king, in favour of his godson, Richard Devereux. Here, for many years, the Devereux family resided ; but soon after the attainder of the unfortunacte earl of Essex, Lanfey passed into the possession of the family of Orielton. Bishop Barlow, in a grant of the stewartship of all his manors to the earl of Worcester, mentions that out of Lan- fey was paid to the prince a fee farm rent of 13l. 6s. 8d. and the service of leading and the government of alt the men and tenants of the said Bishoprick, to serve the prince in war, as often as need shall require. / ^L/?rz^/y Lya^i^Z3^,,S;ii.€^?7i/'r£^y-n/^t^ J^J'SsA^¥h^sB-:prisi^sJir,aj:3g Jy ^i:U7/i^27iK^.■^^ . 'A-iit. 7^ ROACH CASTLE, PEMBROKESHIRE. Tins Castle occupies the south-west extremity of one of those inland rocky ridges such as Pembrokeshire abounds with, running nearly east and west a little to the northward of the church of St. Mary de Rupe ; and as the ridge here rises considerably, and its summit broken into various irre- gular points, the building is formed so to embrace them, that the rock and the masonry seem thoroughly incorporated, giving it at once an air of great singularity and strength. Roach Castle appears to have been built as a barrier for- tress by the Normans or Flemings, and from its situation is well calculated to command the most extensive views by sea and land. At the west end this castle shews a form nearly semicircular ; to the north, a plain front ; to the east, an irregular side, having the principal entrance with a square projection to the south. It had three stories, each consist- ing of one large apartment, besides smaller apartments, in the southern projection, having elegantly groined roofs, and handsome oriel windows. The walls throughout are nearly six feet in thickness. There is a tradition respecting an occupier of this castle, of the family of de la Roche, having had it foretold to him, that he shonM die by the bite of a viper. He, to avoid this ROACH CASTLE, PEiMBROKESHIRE. death (says the tradition) erected Roach Castle on a bare rock, at a distance from any growth that might be liable to harbour any noxious creature, and there immured himself for years ; but a viper concealed in a fagot, happening to be brought in, was the cause of his death ; and on a monu- ment of a crusader, in Langwn church, said to be his, is a representation of a viper twined round his leg or boot. After passing through several hands, since the reign of Henry VIII. Roach Castle, with part of the territory formerly annexed to it, is now the property of Rees Stokes, esq. /^ c-VV^^ ^;Vy f / ^i^/^^AmS^ 1 1 WARKWORTH CASTLE, NOR THUMBERLAND. This Castle stands on a lull, the town of Warkworth lying below it to the north. The great tower of the castle over- looks the town, being situated on the brink of the cliff im- mediately above it. This tower owes its origin to the Per- cys, as appears by the effigy immediately above the entrance, viz. the Lion of Brabant, and by the armorial bearings of the family dispersed over the building. The west side of the castle is formed of various irregular towers and walls of dif- ferent ages, extending along the brink of the cUfF, whose foot is washed by the river Coquet. On the south the ground rises gradually to the height of the rocks on which the western portion of the buildings stand. This side of the castle fronts a spacious platform, and is defended by a high wall with an outward moat. The ancient gateway, and chief entrance to the castle, is on this side, the gate being defend- ed by circular towers and a drawbridge. The eastern side is placed on the brink of a steep declivity, defended by an out- ward moat and a lofty wall, guarded by a square bastion near the centre, and an angular tower at the south point. The walls enclose a spacious area, almost square, within which the ancient parts of the fortress are very ruinous. Warkworth was formerly the barony of Roger Fitz Ri- WARKWORTH CASTLE. chard, who held it by the seivice of one knight's fee of the grant of Henry II. It continued in his fami'y for several successive generations. John, the last of this family, who possessed this barony in consideration of certain grants of lands in the southern counties, made over to Edward II. the reversion in fee of his barony and castle of Warkworth, pro- vided he should die without issue male. This reversion Ed- ward III. granted to Henry Lord Percy, from whom these possessions have descended to the present duke of Northum- berland. .^,^/jfA^' X s K LEISTON ABBEY, SUFFOLK. Built 1182, by Ranulph de Glanville, lord chief justice of England : but the first habitation being near the sea, and iiiconvenient, Robert do Uiford, earl of Suffolk, about 136'3, erected a new abbey, at a small distance, which was consumed by fire before 1389. It was, however, rebuilt, and conti- nued in a flourishing state till the general Dissolution ; the old abbey, likewise, remained till that lime, and had some religious in it: both the new and old house were dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. The ruins stand in an open country, about four miles from Saxmundhara, and have an unfavourable appearance at a distance, but, on nearer inspection, many picturesque parts are to be seen. The church has been very substantial, but is broken into detached masses, except on the side where the aisles are divided by the elegant lofty window of the transept. These aisles arc of great service to the farmer who lives adjoining the abbey, in a house built with its ruins, forming a magazine fur his grain ; other parts are converted into stables. The west end is curiously ornamented with Gothic arches, of free-stone, neatly inlaid in flint, agreeably to the custom of this county and Norfolk. LEISTON ABBEY, SUFFOLK. A fine tower, belonging to the transept, is seen to great advantage from a square area, leading to the apartmeuta of the convent, now an orchard. The order of this abbey was that of Premonstratensian ca- nons. Before the erection of the new abbey, viz. in the 6 Jidward 11. A. D. 1312, the abbot obtained a charter for a market and fair here, but both hare been long disused. lu the new abbey, at the Dissolution, there remained, according to some accounts, fifteen monks ; but Willis, in his *' His- tory of Abbics," says there were eighteen, besides the abbot. V SOUTH OCKENDON CHURCH, ESSEX. South Ockendon, at the time of the Doomsday Survey, was part of the possessions of GeofFiy de Magnaville, but in the reign of Edward I. it became the property of the Bruyns, one of whom was chamberlain to that sovereign, and married Isolda, sole heiress to this estate. In this family it conti- nued till the year 1471, when being divided between Eliza- beth and Alice, sisters and coheiresses, each moiety became the properly of their respective husbands, and each sister being three times married, the different manors passed through as many families. Elizabeth's third husband was sir Wm. Brandon, standard-bearer to Henry VII. who was killed by Richard III. at the battle of Bosworth Field. This nobleman was father of Charles Brandon, duke of Suffolk, who was born in this village, and endowed by nature with eminent qualities both of body and mind. For his services in the campaign against France be was invested by Henry VIII. with the dignity of Viscount Lisle and Duke of Suffolk. He won the heart of the king's sister, the princess Mary, who was married to Louis XII. of France, and after her short- lived union with that monarch, became her husband. In the 36" of Henry VIIT. he was appointed general of the army that was sent into France, and took Boulogne, and dying the year following, was interred in St. George's chapel, at Windsor. // SOUIH OCKENDON fUL'RCH. Tlie church of Soutli Ockendon consists of a body, with side aisles and chaticel. At the west end i* a round tower, having anciently an entrance into it of the pointed order of arches, now blocked up. In the church is a mural monu- ment, to the memory of Sir Richard Salstonhall, knight, who died in the year 1601. The only object belonging to the church worthy of particular notice is the North door: this is sheltered by a porch, and is of most exquisite masonry, hav- ing beautifully-proportioned pillars, two on each side the entrance : from these spring highly-enriched circular arches, the ornaments on which have lately been nearly obliterated from view by an immense coat of whitewash. /.. %H^^ _^W^c^: >^ CANEWDON CHURCH, ESSEX. Canewdox Church is remarkable for its massiveness, and being situated on one of the most elevated spots in that part of the county, it may be seen for many miles round. It is a structure of the pointed order of architecture, and appears to have been built about the time of Henry IV. and V. probably on the site of a more ancient building. The Font is of stone, but not very remarkable. At Canewdon (evidently derived from Canute's-town) are the remains of a camp, supposed to have been occupied by the Danes under Canute, who fought a battle in this neigh- bourhood with Edmund Ironside, and obtained a great victory over him. The area of the camp is of an oblong form, and includes about six acres. The vallum has been levelled, but the foss is yet visible : some part of it surrounds the manor- house, which is also encircled by a moat. This battle, which is styled in history the Battle of Assan- dum, was fougbt between Asbingdon and Canewdon, and the loss Edmund here sustained is supposed to have been oc- casioned by the treachery of one of his commanders, Edric Streon, in whom he placed unbounded conBdence. Whilst the two armies were engaged, he, with all his followers, de- serted their post, and went and joined the Danes. This piece of treachery caused such a consternation among the CANEWDON CHUKCH. English, that they thought of nothing but saving themselves by flight. Edmund's loss on this occasion was irretrievable, the flower of the English nobility being cut ofiF in this unfor- tunate battle. The earls Alfrick, Godwin, Ulfketel, Ethel- ward, all distinguished by their valour and loyalty, fell that day with their swords in their hands, in defence of their king and country. Near the camp, in a field called Bcaconfield, to the north, a great variety of urns were found at different times, during the last ceBtury. 3^-<,3*-i?-^*: GOODMANHAM, YORKSHIRE. // GooDMAiVHAM, formerly Godniundingaham, is a place of great antiquity, although hitherto very little noticed by an- tiquaries. If we believe the 17th Iter of Richard of Ciren- cester, the celebrated Errayn- street, must have passed this village ; and it is probable that, as the Roman road went from Petuaria (Brough), it run, by Londesborough and Mil- lington, to that from Flamborough to York. Drake places a Roman station at Londesborough, which answers to the ancient appellation, Dtlw Kocdh, Belgovitia, or " wood of idols," as some interpret this name. Godmundingahara is in the East-Riding of Yorkshire, about sixteen miles S.E. of York, and only a few miles from Wrighton and Newbald. Camden makes Wrighton, called by Leland " a great up- landische village," to be the ancient Delgwe^ or " statues of the Pagan gods ;" and observes, that adjoining it is the Saxon village of Godmundingaham, celebrated for its oracle and temple of the gods, whence it derived its name ; doubt- less it contained a temple of Hertha, the symbolical power of nature, which was chiefly worshipped by the Angles, who constituted and inhabited the kingdom of Deira, then includ- ing the whole county of York, and a considerable portion of tlie adjacent counties. It was the flaxen-haired youths of GOOn.MANHAM, YORKSHIRE. this kingdom, who were sold for slaves at Rome, (all the Saxons originally sold their children or friends in like man- ner), which gave occasion to the pure and pleasing tale of Pope Gregory's resolution to convert the *' angels," inhabi- tants of this isle. From Tacitus we learn that the Angles had a benign deity, whom thoy worshipped under the appel- lation of Hertha (earth). They dreaded an evil being, whom they called Faul, or Loke, the calumniator of the gods. They fancied a female existence, (and to their honour it must be recorded, that they always paid the utmost respect to the fair sex), which they called Elf; and doubtless considered her very handsome, as they complimented their own ladies on resembling her. This goddess, however, like those of classic celebrity, did not remain a vestal ; at least we infer this from the presumption that she was the mother of the numerous brood of the same light-bodied personages, the fairy elves, who make such a respectable figure in the later regions of Gothic poetry and romance. Gough alledges, that the Saxon, or rather Anglian idols at Godmundingaham, " may have been Druidical stone pillars* inclosed in arches of the same, which is the meaning of Bede's septa." This conjecture is unsupported by any probability, and is directly contrary to well-ascertained facts. The re- ligion of the Druids had vanished before the victorious arms of the Saxons, and their oaken godships had been many years sent " to plough the billowy main," instead of cherish- ing the mistic mistletoe in the solitary forest. Nevertheless, it is more difficult to invent even the most ab.surd system of religion than any implement of industry ; but the northerns brought their own religion with them, and consequently did ^ GOODMANHAM, YORKSHIRE. not require tliat of tlie conquered Britons, their prisoners. Superstition, indeed, is tlie most fecund thing in nature ; and no effort, human or divine, has hitherto been sufficient to render it abortive. The Saxons, therefore, were more likely to increase than diminish the number of their gods with the progress of events, and influx of good fortuue. Warriors, also, are generally either very superstitious, or very pious, and hence the magnificence and splendour of the worship at this temple. Even so late as the beginning of the last century, vestiges of idolatrous devotion were here still visible. The present church, which exhibits such ex- quisite specimens of the architecture prevalent in the Anglo- Saxon ages, " in all probability," says Drake, " stands on the very site of the ancient Pagan temple ; the ground wi'' allow of it, being a fine sloping dry hill." It was a semicircle about two hundred and sixty yards in diameter, divided into a great many apartments, some of which seem to have been peculiarly adapted to the worship or mysteries of the heathen deities ; others to have been places of reception for the wor- shipping multitude ; and the rest appears as if either appro- priated to altars where the victims themselves were slain, or offices for holding the sacred instruments of sacrifice : sub- servient to the latter purpose, is a place one hundred and fifty yards long, about twelve or fourteen broad, and eight deep, except at the east, where from this bottom a hill, or mount, rises at least eight or nine fathoms perpendicular. From this elevationone easily surveys the whole area, which seems to have been more particularly set apart for the wor- ship of the chief idol, as the hill is artificial. The hollow part seems to have been divided into two squares, with only GOODMAN'HAM, YORKSHIRE. a small space left between them. Besides this mount, two other divisions were especially appropriated to worship ; each of which extend about sixty yards by twelve or fourteen. But the places apparently designed for the accommodation of the pious devotees are very numerous, and are sef-n over the whole ruins, although of very different forms and dimen- sions. In general, the compartments are mostly inclined to be round or oval, and some are square ; but the size is very dissimilar, perhaps corresponding to the rank of the occu- pant, some being only six, seven, or eiglit yards in circum- ference, while others are twelve, fifteen, or twenty. Con- siderable quantities of stone have been dug out of this here- tofore far-famed place, which is now called the Howes- Adjoining on the south is a field of ten or twelve acres, called Chapel Gartbends ; on the north side, the foundation of a wall was seen, where it united the two extremities of the semicircle ; but all the semicircular parts seem to have been secured by a mound or rampart of earth. These appearances perfectly correspond with the mode of worship, according to all records of the northern antiquities. la a private chapel, which was regarded as the holy place, •were fixed on a kind of altar the three principal gods to whom sacrifices were ofi^ered : Wodin, or Odin, holding a sword ; Tlior on bis left, wearing a crown and sceptre, with a club in his hand ; Frea, or Friggo, the wife of Wodin, having the attributes of the goddess of pleasure, stood on the left of Thor. Around these idols were arranged the victims to be sacrificed. Opposite to this chapel, another altar was raised, and covered with iron, in order that the fire, which was to burn there continually, should not damage it. On this altar .1 GOODMANHAM, YORKSHIRE. was placed a brass vase to receive the blood of the victiais . adjoining it was a brush, which was used to sprinkle the blood over the worsliippers, — the same as holy water is now dispersed in Roman Catholic churches. In another chapel was a deep pit, into which the victims were cast after the sacritice. Vestiges of some of these parts may even be ob- served in the annexed views, particularly at the west end, and also in the still-existing mounds and pits apparent on the south-east side of the church. In the first ages of the world, all altars were in open places, as it was deemed irreverent to confine the gods to any part ; but after the worship of Odin, about the third century of the Christian era, had gained the ascendancy over the other superstitions in the north, altars were enclosed, and latterly edifices were erected, in which their gods were regularly worshipped. Hence we perceive that Cough's er- roneous interpretation of the Saxon pisbeb or peopeb i>aY he^enan sylbc)*, into " gods or worship," instead of " altars of the Pagan gods or idols," and pesum "Se hi ymbfetce paejion, " Hedges wherewith they were in- closed," instead of " high fences or enclosures surround- ing them," not only perverts the meaning of words, but .conveys a very false idea of the grandeur and art which were displayed in this temple. The word hese, which has been rendered hedge, is derived from hes, high, and perfectly corresponds with the original Scythian notions of height or elevation, which that people conceived peculiar to their coun- try, as a supposed race of mountaineers, the direct descend- ants of Noah. GOODMANHAM, YORKSHIRE. We learn from Bede, the sole authority on the suhject, that when the high-priest, or Arch-Flanien, (sometimes very ab- surdly called Pontifex, t. e. Bridge-reeve, after the Romans), CaeS, or Coyfi was converted to Christianity by Paulinas, on his return to this temple, he was the first to commence its destruc- tion, by throwing a spear at it, and afterwards burning it and all its high enclosures. The situation of this idolatrous struc- ture presents much analogy to the " high places" so often mentioned in the scriptures. Had the temple consisted only of Druidical stones, it would have been equally vain to strike it with a spear, or attempt to burn it. There can, indeed, be no doubt that it contained some of the best structures of that age, when very little stone was used for building, and when even the palaces of princes were not unlike the huts of Russian boors at the present day, formed of blocks of wood, or trees laid one above another, without windows, and much of them open in the roof to let the smoke go out and the light come in. On the demolition of the idols, a Christian church, as usual, was immediately erected here, and Dr. Stukeley asserts that the identical font in which Paulinus baptized Caefi is still extant in the present church. The same writer affirms that the actual walls of the church were erected by Paulinus, at the same time, about 0'30. But, however this may be, it cannot be doubted that some parts of them, at least, were constructed long before the Norman conquest, as they bear much internal evidence of high antiquity. The small extent of the original building, and the extreme massiveness of the walls, are circumstances which tend to prove that the church must have been built in an age when pomp and science were // GOODMANFIAM, YORKSHIRE. but little known. In the accompanying views?, sonic remains of finely-ornamented circular arches are seen, either blocked up or hidden by a buttress, as appears in the west end of the church. Admitting, therefore, the ingenious theory of King respecting the origin and progress of arches, the seemingly gratuitous assertion of Stukeley may be true, although cer- tainly unsupported by any written evidence. It appears, indeed, unquestionable that the invention of the arch in building took place only a little more than two centuries be- fore Christ. At first the arch was entirely plain, but in the course of three or four centuries it became fashionable to de- corate it with mouldings : these were varied according to the mechanical skill and taste of the age. As all fashions must have their beginning, middle or climax, and their decline and fall, we can easily believe that the style of oi;namenting public buildings aud churches must have experienced a si- milar fate. On this ground it is not incredible that the fashion of ornamenting circular arches, which began in the second or third centuries, might have attained its climax in the seventh, that the embattled, billet, zigzag, nailhead, cable, and other mouldings, were then universally adopted, and that from this period their use gradually declined, till the arch properly so called was entirely disused in the be- ginning of the twelfth century, and triangular openings over doors and windows assumed its place. As the Angles were among the most acute and ingenious of the Saxon tribes, and as they had enriched themselves at the expense of the Britons, it is not improbable that the vast structure which here occupied above one-seventh of a mile, and contained temples for oracles, gods, altars for sacrifice, and apartments GOODMANHAM, YORKSHIRE. for priests, &c. had some regularly built edifices within its sacred precincts. On this supposition, which is certainly much more probable and rational than the conjecture of its being only druidical stones, the erection of a church from the ruins could be no very arduous task. It may therefore be inferred, that Godmundingaham church might have been built in the days of Paulinus, then archbishop of York, and afterwards bishop of Rochester ; but we should hesitate much in asserting positively, with Stukeley, that it was really erect- ed at that period. With respect to the font, there can be but one opinion on the subject, which every reader who casts his eye on the dif- ferent views of it, will be perfectly able to form. In the first place it is not absolutely certain that Paulinus, a Christian missionary to a Pagan people, ever used a regular font, (tra- dition says he used the river Swale) and least of all that he actually baptized the Arch-Flamen, Caefi, in one. In the next place, if he really did use a font, there is no evidence whatever that this is the identical one which he used on that occasion. As fonts are not very portable things, we cannot suppose that they were more numerous than churches, and the latter could not be very abundant only about twenty-five years after the first introduction of Christianity. Paulinus, . indeed, might have a font in his metropolitan church of York, but it is not very likely that such a font should be removed to Godmundingaham, although the archbishop himself was obliged to abandon that part of the country in consequence of the incessant warfare. Neither are the sculptured orna- ments of a character to suggest any very remote origin, and in this respect they are greatly inferior to those on the font GOODMANHAM, YORKSHIRE. in St. Martin's, near Canterbury. The top of it is evidently modern, and can have no pretensions to great antiquity. Independent of the comparatively modern architectural orna- ments, the flat-pointed arch and crockets, the inscriptions suf- ficiently prove it to be no Saxon work : the latter consist of the familiar invocation to the Virgin Mary, Ave Maria, plena gratia, Sfc. and over it an old English rhyming line, of which only a part is legible, "... it ma be saied — of yor cha- rete — pra for them y* y" font may, EAST RIDING, YORKSHIRE. architecture. The silence respecting Newbald is, iQ some respects, remarkable : even in the parliamentary report on the distribution of queen Anne's bounty to augment small livings, it appears that since 1762 there is no return of this vicarage ; nor is its probable amount, nor that of the popu- lation, given in this official document, although printed in May 1815. This negligence cannot be extenuated by the circumstance of North Newbald being a prebend, as it fur- nishes a nominal dignity without the substantial means of supporting it, and thus gives an implied sanction to the most illiberal representations of church livings. In the population act of 1801 there were then 517 inha- bitants in North Newbald ; and in South Newbald, a hamlet to the preceding, 144: according to the returns in 1811, this parish had increased about one-fourteenth of its entire population, having altogether 706 souls, of whom 163 be- longed to South Newbald. In this case, it appears that the vicinity of the church is favourable to population ; for al- though the poor's rate is 10s. 6d. in the pound in North Newbald, and only about half that amount in South New- bald, yet the number of inhabitants has increased more in the former than in the latter. The church of Newbald is dedicated to St. Nicholas, who performs the part of Hymen and Neptune in the papal theo- gony. Over the door-way, as seen in the plate, is an elegant statue of this wonder-working personage, but so mutilated, that it would be impossible to say for whom it was designed were it not seated within a shell formed of Saxon architec- tural mouldings. It is true similar emblems, and every thing respecting 6sh or fishing were frequently used as symbols of ■■ ~ -S^^^^BI 3 ^■^ IT J^^L.^^^ ' ^j^L WtHtf^S^^} -^ "^^^BSf^SBtsK^ 1 NEWBALD, EAST RIIMXC, YORKSHIRE. Christianity in the early apostolic ages ; but it is a remark able fact, that statues or busts of the Saviour, or of bis apostles, are in all countries much more rare and less esteemed than those of the men or women canonized by the popes. It is very seldom that a Romanist devotee ever worships Christ or any of his apostles, while the Virgin Mary and the saints are the objects of incessant adoration. But the life land miracles of the renowned St. Nicholas may contribute to illustrate the history and antiquities of Ncwbald : he was born in Myra, a city of Lyria ; his parents being wealthy and advanced in years, his birth, like that of Isaac, was deemed a gift from heaven, in consideration of their charity to th* poor. This circumstance is particularly dwelt on, as the authors of these ghostly legends, being very honest, ingenuous gentlemen, never suffered any good to go unrewarded even in this life, particularly when it might turn to the interest of their party. The young Nicholas, there- fore, "most be very good and very pious: and although Samuel was justly called the " son of prayer," yet the only pleasure which this child enjoyed, says the legends, was pray- ing in the church when only in his fifth year ! His parents dying wheti hfc was young, left him a large fortune ; and the first use which his holy biographers record that be made of it, was to portion three daughters of a decayed gentlemen in liis native city. His manner of doing this, say his infallible historians, was something singular; in which, however, they arc not perfectly agreed : but the general tradition alleges, that he secretly gave them, one after another, purses of money as opportunity served, or when he was tired of them. These purses, which the damsels found in their beds, and pretended that they knew not whence they came, but that NEWBALD, EAST RIDING, YORKSHIRE. tliey were the gifts of Providence (an artifice practised even in the present age), soon procured them husbands. Their father, however, not quite satisfied with the tale, determined to watch, and caught Nicholas with the purse for the last of his chaste virgin daughters. This very simple and natural procedure, having received a spiritual gloss, has insured the tender-hearted Nicholas the suflFerage and devotion of all the pious Catholic dames of Christendom during the last thousand years. Some ill judging Myrians, indeed, seem to have formed different opinions of Nicholas* motive for throwing money through the window of a young lady's bed-chamber, as he after- wards found it necessary to embark for Palestine. The very voyage presented an opportunity too propitious for miracles to be neglected; accordingly several tempests arose and would have wrecked the vessel had not Nicholas as often allayed them. Hence he became the patron god of seamen, whom he still protects, and only a few months ago saved the lives of some Spanish sailors by means of a heretical English jolly boat and her crew. After visiting the Holy Land, he went to the identical cave in which Joseph and Mary rested on their flight to Egypt. To complete the measure of his pe- nance, and render him an accomplished saint, he next be- came a monk, and retired to a monastery many years before any such places were in existence ; but was recalled by a miracle, (that is, returned from his exile), and made bishop of his native city. During the time of his consecration he restored a child to life that had been burnt to death. He braved the persecution of Licinius ; opposed the Arian heresy ; attended the council of Nice ; and performed so many miracles, that he was called the Thaumaturgus of bis agi-*. He restored many children fe> life ; (giving life to fi^£^?r. V^r/'o/^ ^.M'TcAy, '^^^^{?r:/c.'dc'r:i NEWBALD, EAST RIDING, YORKSHIRE. children, indeed, seems to have been his great forte), fed an immense multitude, during a famine, with a small piece of bread ; and, being a brawny, powerful man, he saved the lives of three innocent persons about to be put to death, by seizing the executioner's weapons, and setting the men at liberty. Nicholas had also the power of ubiquity ; but this is candidly admitted to be only a vision. Finallj', however, he abandoned bis see, (certainly not a very faithful act), re- tired to the monastery of Sion, and died in 327. The em- peror Justinian built a splendid church to his memory. In 1087, when the Turks ravaged Lyria, his sacred re- mains were raised, and carried to Bari, in Italy, where, in a magnificent church, his sepulchre daily performs a prodi- gious number of miracles. The Greek, like the Roman church, pays great devotion to the bisiiop of Myra ; and there are few large towns in Europe without a church, and still fewer cathedrals without an altar, dedicated to his matrimonial godship, St. Nicholas. Of all the modern gods of Rome, there is not one who receives such hearty or fervent worship as Bishop Nicholas. They who have visited the churches on the Continent can bear testimony to this truth : at the altar of St. Nicholas, early and late, some husbandless dame, or languishing spinster, may be seen pouring forth her fervid prayers, and invoking a matrimonial purse from his sanctity. Some always place themselves on the right side of his altar, some on the left, and others in the front. The hollows which are worn in the stone steps of the altars to Nicholas in almost all the churches of France, Italy, Spain, or Portugal, are si- lent, but irrefragable testimonies of the frequent devotions and prayers which are tendered to him, and often on the naked knees. XEWBALD, EAST RIDIN'G, YORKSHIRE, Many more miracks and wonders are recorded of this Nicholas ; some of which are said to be delineated on a font in Winchester cathedral. But, whatever may have been the devotion paid to this saint in Winchester by the amorous Gevissae, or Jutes, and to his pretended mira- cles, it is certain that the Angles, even before their con- %'ersion, and consequently not less so after it, were a much more modest race, and adhered strictly to that law of na- ture which is so admirably defined by St. Paul. It is a fruth which ought, indeed, to be familiar to every English- man, that the Angles and the greater part of the Saxons were, in this respect, a very peculiar people, and that this pecoliarity has been transmitted unimpaired through more tliaa twelve centuries. The Angles were very devout to Gefioiiey their goddess of virginity and chastity, and paid her honours which were tjuite unknown in other countries. The goddess of an opposite otfice, Frea or Frigga, the northern Venus, was no less different from the Venus of the Greeks and Romans ; and although avowedly the goddess of pleasure and love, she was a most faithful wife, who " wept incessantly for the absence of her husband, Odrus, and her tears were drops of gold." This peculiar character of conjugal fidelity exalts the mental powers and virtues of these our anc(;$tors to the highest degree. Even the very idea has something of Christian puiity in it long before tliese people were favoured with the light of the gospel. In all ages and in all countries we may form correct notions of the predominating sentiments of the people by the attributes of their gods, and their re- ligious opinions. The good and virtuous have always good and beneficent deities ; the bad and maliciously wickttd always hare gods which are the images of their own evil y^^J^i^/' :n.-^9';t/:^^'rJ^friK,ce^.^ VJ9^■/'a/£U-^7^i07A/,'^^^or^:^^ r.,ZzrJzsZ&c.&>i£Ji>M?. XEWBALD, EAST RIDING, YORKSHIRE. minds. In like manner, good men have a favourable opinion of human virtues ; but the ill-disposed believe there is no- thing good in nature. The immense inriuence of opinions, to which always more than three-fourths of the community are slaves, should likewise be considered in estimating the character of these moral people. " Domestic happiness, the only bliss of paradise which has survived the fall," was also a distinguishing characteristic of the Angles. Fulla, who was the confidant of Frea, and took care of her dresses and Orna- ments, had nothing of the character which marked the attendants of the Greek or Roman goddess of pleasure ; on the contrary, she appeared a most discreet, amiable, and faithful friend ; just such as a judicious person might naturally select to participate in her private sentiments and feelings. In the character of the Angles, therefore, we can trace the origin of many peculiarities which still distinguish the inha- bitants of this island from those of the other provinces of Europe, or of Christendom. The intrusion of the Normans into England produced much less change either Va the nCianncrs or lineage of the district around Newbald thati iti most other parts of the kingdom. The circumstance also of its having only a parish church, and no monastery, 'priory, or other religious establish- ment, to facilitate the corruption of the native blood, con- tributed to the preservation oi the pristine moral character. Its importance was, therefore, considerable, and its territorial possessions extensive. According to the inquisition taken in 1275, of the lands in the liberty of St. Peter, of York, with- out the city, MuUerihalle, and several other places, are stated as belonging to the prebend of Newbald, and not taxable. /^^ NBWBALD, KAST RIDIXG, YORKSHIRE. In the escheat rolls of the same sovereign, the township of Nevvbald is mentioned as held by the dean and chapter of York, under the fee of the Saxon Prince, Ulf or Ulphus. It contained twenty-eight caracutes of land. As to the church of Newbald, *' it was," says Burton, " given to the priory of Nostill, or Nostillah, by Atropus, son of Hunfrid Hastang ; and pope Alexander III. confirmed his grant, which led to the decay, and final obscurity of this ancient parish. /u. j*^,'- ->. >^/ INDEX TO THE COPPERPLATE ENGRAVINGS in VOL. L ARRANGED IN COUNTIES. Counties. Roman Sculptured Stone, Trinity- 1 ^, , . , , . ^/y College, Cambridge - - - - '. jCambndgeslnre. ' ^ "^ The Water Course at Penrith - - - Cumberland. ♦ - - ' •^'^ Hedinghain Castle . - - - - -\ ^^ Interior ofthe Audience Chamber of do. {^- - •V North Door, South Ockendon Church ?^^^^?^' X^ Canewdon Church ------J-- // Margan Abbey ) „,- - -,-.•- • ^J CardlflF Castle - j Glamorganshire, __ ^^ Stone Font in Ware Church - - - Hertfordshire. - • y&~ West Gate, Canterbury - - - - ^ - ..---/? Canterbury Castle ------- --- --- //7 Interior of Do. -------- •---■''' ^ Part of the Hospital at Harbledown - | - - - - - - " ' -^ Interior of the Hospital Church at Do. i tr- . - - - - - Jv~ Font in^Do. - - ^ - - . . . J^Keat - ^ North Porch, Beakesbourne Church St. Martin's Church, Canterbury Interior of Do. - - - - - Ancient Font in Do. - - - Remains of an Ancient Hall, Silk ") , . , , . ^/ Willoughby - .JLmcoJnslure.t ; / // Part of Caldecot Castle - - - -1,f - -,,-,.-' ' -^ ^> T, f„ > Monmouthshire. . . /9 Square Tower of Do. ----- J , •;; Remains of the Lady's Chapel, near \ ''^/Y^ Bothall Castle / Bothall Castle \ Northumberland. -^ Do. i Warkworth Castle ------J VOL. I. H /r IXDEX TO THE COPPERPLATES. Castle Campbell ^ _ - _ Doune Castle, principal Entrance - ( „ • , . ^ Doune Castle ..... >Pertbsh,r Do. Counties, ■ i/ ■ ^ Lanfey Court 1 6 "u 'i u- ' ^ Roach Castle jPembrokesh.re.^ Remains of Winchester Palace, South- ")-.-. / |// wark >Surrjr, ' «« Do. of the Hall of Do. - - - - - J - * • - -^-^ Herstmonceaux Castle ----- Sussex. . . .j^J North Door of Wissett Church - - 7 o-o.-,, - - - ^f Leiston Abbey | Suffolk-^ , ,.^y~ Roman Antiquities at Aldborough -^ . . . . ^ Do. Do. Goodmanham Church - - West End of Do. - - - Interior of Do. - - - . Do. ,-- South Entrance to Do. ^ Yorkshire. , Newbald Church -..._- Interior of Do. ------- South Entrance to Do. Statue of St. Nicholas over the South Entrance ---..-.- INDEX ENGRAVINGS on WOOD m VOL I. In this Index the Engi'avings on TVood ate arranged in Counties, but noticed as the Head or Tail Pieces to the Descriptions they accompany, — H. P. implies Head- Piece; T. P. Tail-Piece. '} Counties. >-Bi'eckaockshire. Remains of Tudor Hall, T. P. to the description of Lanfey Court, Pern- ^Anglesea. brokesbire - _ _ _ . Sculptured Stone at Pen Y Menidd, T. P. to tbe description of West Gate, Canterbury, Kent - - - . Monument of Sir Pcobt. Fulshurst, in' Barthomley Church, T. P. to the de- scription of Hedingham Castle,Essex Remains of the East End of St. John's Church, Chester, T. P. to the de- scription of the Stone Font in Ware Church -------- Part of the Cross at Sandbach, T. P. ^Cheshire, to the description of Canterbury } Castle, Kent Do. T. P. to the description of Caldecot Castle, Monmouthshire - - - - Part of a Sculptured Slate at Chester, T. P. to the description of Herst- raonceaux Castle - - - - - INDEX TO THE WOOD EKGBAVINGS. CuUHlitir. A Roman Altar at Chester, T. P. to _ . . - . the description of Doune Castle, Perthshire ------- An Ancient Sculptured Stone, kept in \ Cheshin the Chapter-House at Chester, T. j P. to the description of Roach Cas- tle, Pembrokeshire ----- Entrance to the Hospital of St. Mary -^ Wike, T. P. to the description of ' the Roman Sculptured Stone, Tri- nitj' College, Cambridge - - - Bishop's Seat in St. Germain's Church, ^Cornwall. - T. P. to the description of Wissett i Church, Suffolk - - - _ - Do. do. T. P. to the description of - ' Canewdon Church, Essex - - -J Abbotsbury Abbey, T. P. to the de- "1 scription of St. Nicholas' Hospital, >Dorsctshiri ■ Harbledown, Kent ----- J Ornamented Brick Work, NetteswellS Churth, H. P. to the description of ( , the Ancient Hall at Silk Willough- ( ^ by, Lincolnshire ----- -J Part of the Sculptured Frieze in Ros- lin Chapel, H. P. to the description of the Roman Antiquities at Aid- borough, Yorkshire - - - - - Do. do. H. P. to the description of Castle Campbell, Perthshire - - Do. do. H. P. to the description of Caldecot Castle, Monmouthshire - VEdiuburghsbire, Do. do. H. P. to the description of • St. Martin's Church, Canterbury, Kent Angels' Heads over the West Entrance to Holy Rood Chapel, H. P. to the description of Lanfey Court, Pem- brokeshire -------- Sculptured Stone in the Church-yard' of Lantwit-Major, T. P. to the de- scription of Bothall Castle - - - 'Essex. /^ / J/ /y ^z INDEX TO THE WOOD ENGRAVINGS. Counticss West Gate, Winchester, T.P. to the de- ~| scription of Beakesbourne Church, >Hampshire. /^ Kent J , Part of St. Andrew's Priory, at Ro- ^ . - . ■ . -^^ Chester, T. P. to the Water Course at Penrith, Cumberland - - - Do. T. P. to the description of the Lady's Chapel, near Bothall Castle, Northumberland ------ Do. T. P. to the description of Margan ^Kent. Abbey, Glamorganshire - - - Do. T. P. to the description of Wark- worth Castle, Northumberland Allington Castle, T. P. to the descrip- tion of St. Martin's Church, Can- terbury -__---_- Entrance to the White Friars' Monas- "^ tery, Stamford, T. P. to the descrip- > Lincolnshire. . . 7^ tion of Leiston Abbey, SuiFoik - - J Stone Font in Woodford Church, T. Oy P. to the description of Castle J Campbell, Perthshire - - - - f Interior of the Round Church, Nor- V Northamptonshire, - ^2 thampton, T. P. to the description ( / of the Ancient Hall at Silk Wil- \ loughby, Lincolnshire - . - -J . The Window of Winchester Palace, ~1 , . - • - '^y^ Southwark, T.P. to the Account of >Surry. Winchester Palace ----- J The West Gate, Bridgenorth, T. P. "j to the description of St. Ockendon ^Shropshire. • - - /^ Church, Essex ------ J Farley Castle, T. P. to the descrip- '\ y^ tion of Cardiff Castle, Glamorgan- VSomersetshire. - - ^ shire ---------J Ouse Bridge, York, T. P. to the de- -\ ... - - J^^ scription i>f Goodmanham - - - f y. Ancient Font in Newbald Church, T. \ Yorkshire. - • '^'^^ P. to the description of Newbfi Church - - - - - de-'v )ald I INDEX TO THE WOOD ENGRAVINGS. Counties. Remains of Kenihvorth Priory, T. P. 1 ^ to the descriptiou of Roman Anti- >Warwickshire. ■ ^ _^ quities at Aldboroagh, Yorksbire - J END OF VOLUME I» I VV. Wilson, Printer, 4, Greville-Strcet, London. p v.l tH£ GETTY CENTER IIBRARY /(^ 1j