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JOURNEY 
 
 THROUGH 
 
 GREECE and the IONIAN ISLANDS, 
 
 IN 
 
 JUNE, JULY, and AUGUST, 1821. 
 
 By Dr. CHRISTIAN MULLER. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED FOR SIR RICHARD PHILLIPS AND CO. 
 
 k 
 
 BRIDE-COURT, BRIDGE-STREET. 
 
 1822. 
 
In Rome 1 agreed with some friends to go, this year, in the month of March, 
 by Sicily to Athens, from which place we were to undertake shorter excursions 
 through Attica, Bceotia, Achaia, Argo (is, arid to JEgira. This plan, however, 
 was frustrated. 
 
 It had, however, taken too deep root in me for to allow to renounce it altogether. 
 
 Besides, Ifelt myself powerfully attracted towards Greece, by contemplating 
 its regeneration from a distance. I felt myself prepared to endure and to risk 
 every thing, and to join, with heart and hand, in their contest. 
 
 I, therefore, set off by myself, and went through Naples to Sicily; and, after 
 various excursions in that island, I began the journey, the description of which 
 is contained in the following letters. 
 
 C. MULLER. 
 
 W. Lewis, Printer. 21, Finch-lane, CornhilL 
 
JOURNEY 
 
 THROUGH 
 
 G REECE 
 
 AND 
 
 THE IONIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 LETTER I. 
 
 / Messina , June, 1821. 
 
 WE journeyed over the hills, and arrived at Messina, on our 
 road from the lofty mountain of Toarmina, in the last week in 
 J une. 
 
 For three weeks I had been wandering on the east and south 
 coasts of Sicily. The ancient and splendid city of Agrigent I 
 saw sunk into the deepest wretchedness, now only great in its 
 colossal ruins; the proud Syracusae, kept in awe by a battalion 
 of Austrians; Cyana’s spring, almost choked with mud; and 
 Mount iEtna, at other periods so furious, I saw quiet and calm, 
 even without that small silvery column of smoke, by which its 
 Neapolitan brother now and then indicates its existence. 
 
 I had made the greater part of the journey on foot, and 
 through a burning heat; I therefore felt much gratification 
 when I had taken possession of my very clean apartment in the 
 Lion d'Oro. 
 
 To a pensive mind, the two principal pictures which adorn 
 the room would not be very cheering. On one side, Werter 
 with the peace-bringing pistol; on the other, Charlotte, who has 
 just sent it. Both were very badly executed, although well in¬ 
 tended. Many shallow lines have been written by Frenchmen 
 under them, although they had no notion of the subject; but 
 there were some good English verses. 
 
 I found an Austrian vessel destined for Zante, which was to 
 set out on the third day. I, therefore, employed the following 
 day in visiting those objects which I had not seen during my first 
 residence in this city. King Roger’s beautiful dome, borne by 
 antique columns, and the Pelorian hills, again attracted me. 
 From these hills, which rise above Messina and its forts, the 
 prospect is delicious. 
 
 The city still bears many traces of its destruction, and during 
 the bad times which prevailed for these thirty-eight years, only 
 the most essential parts could be rebuilt, and among the unfi- 
 
 VoYAfiES and Tr avels, Vol. VIII . B 
 
o' 
 
 Jouiney through Greece * 
 
 nished parts are almost all the houses of the splendid Pallazzata, 
 which are not continued beyond the first-floors. If, in more 
 prosperous times, this street should ever be finished, it will 
 rival in splendour, with its colonnaded palaces, the old Palaz- 
 zata, which was destroyed before its completion. The appear¬ 
 ance of this harbour-street, like its name, has for the stranger 
 arriving from Naples, which is so poor in architectural beauties, 
 something strikingly grand and imposing. 
 
 The prosperity of Messina had been broken through Leghorn, 
 even before the earthquake, so that but few families remained 
 possessed of property. But this, too, was materially injured 
 by the calamity. No splendid carriages are seen here, and the 
 contrast, formed by a comparison with Palermo, is very great. 
 
 I was struck with seeing so few handsome female faces and 
 figures here, which are yet so numerous even in Catania. The 
 citizens’ wives wear a long black cloth cloak, descending to the 
 ground with a small hood. This has certainly a very solemn 
 appearance; but, besides this kind of dress being very ugly and 
 unbecoming, I cannot conceive how these females can walk in 
 them through the streets, while the barometer stands upon 32° 
 Fahrenheit, in the shade. 
 
 Ten thousand Austrian soldiers are enough to keep all Sicily 
 in order and tranquillity, and of these a few battalions prove 
 sufficient to form the garrison of Messina. 
 
 It is true that most of the Sicilians wish to see the country 
 again occupied by the English, on account of the money which 
 they expended. The English too, who view, with pain, the 
 occupation of the island by the Austrians, ferment this desire of 
 the natives by all possible means, direct and indirect; but they 
 are mistaken who apprehend any ill from this. It is certain that 
 the Sicilians are far from being as cowardly and effeminate a 
 people as the N eapolitans, but their late insurrections against 
 the Austrians at Palermo and Catania, were always energe¬ 
 tically and judiciously suppressed, with the greatest speed. 
 
 Those who are fond of recalling the memory of the Sicilian 
 vespers, forget that Sicily and its inhabitants of 1821 are no 
 longer those of the thirteenth century. 
 
 At the same time the silent caution of the Austrians, both 
 here and in Naples, s admirable. Supported by this, they are 
 able to keep two kingdoms in awe with an army of 30,000 men. 
 
 The robbers in Sicily have entirely disappeared since the pre¬ 
 sence of the Austrians, but in the kingdom of Naples, even on 
 the high roads of Rome and Otranto, they continue their trade 
 with the greatest audacity. 
 
find the Ionian Islands. 
 
 3 
 
 LETTER II. 
 
 Zante, Juhj. 
 
 We left the harbour of Messina early in the morning, that is, 
 we were carried out of it by the tide, which is of great impor¬ 
 tance for the navigation in this channel. With the next high- 
 water we were carried into the Pharus, which is always a diffi¬ 
 cult undertaking, owing to the violent currents in the strait, so 
 much so that, unless the wind be favourable and pretty brisk, 
 Jt is impossible to accomplish it at low-water. 
 
 We were soon becalmed; and I profited of this involuntary 
 leisure of the captain to enquire of him respecting the present 
 importance of Scylla and Charybdis in navigation. I give his 
 observations as those of an experienced man, without pretend¬ 
 ing to warrant their correctness. 
 
 The Scylla I had seen myself a month previously, on entering 
 the Pharus, near the village of Scylla, on the coast of Calabria. 
 It is now a harmless rock, and is only terrible in poetry; but 
 the Charybdis is still dangerous, being the most difficult of 
 the numerous whirlpools which extend through the whole Pha¬ 
 rus, along the Calabrian coast; and, even in modern times, has 
 proved destructive to many vessels. In autumn and winter the 
 passage through the Pharus is so dangerous that most ships go¬ 
 ing from east to west, prefer filing round Sicily than attempt¬ 
 ing to go through it. Others, not taking this precaution, lay 
 for months in the Pharus, without daring to proceed, on account 
 of the currents flowing towards the Charybdis, and other 
 whirlpools. 
 
 Thus, I was told, two ships sailed last year from Trieste for 
 Geneva. The one, even after having touched at Malta, where 
 she lay a short time, went round Sicily, and soon arrived at 
 Geneva. On her subsequent return to Trieste, after the lapse 
 of several months, she met the other ship off Naples, and in a 
 very damaged state, after having had to contend, for two months 
 and a half, against the currents of the Charybdis. 
 
 In the evening the wind again became favourable, and we 
 soon came in sight of the mountain-tops of Taormina and .ZEtna. 
 The latter mountain, owing to its gentle rise, is not so pictu¬ 
 resque in its appearance as the Vesuvius with the Sonnoa; but 
 its size makes it still imposing. The Sicilian mountains rise 
 from the Pelorian hills in very beautiful undulations over the 
 Taormina, towards the iEtna, behind which they disappear. 
 
 The Calabrian mountains are far less beautiful. Besides, they 
 are rugged and barren, and were only interrupted in their mo¬ 
 notony by the rough beds of mountain-torrents, which are now 
 dried up. There were no human habitations to be seen from this 
 spot. 
 
 B 2 
 
4 Journey through Greece 
 
 On the following morning we lost sight of the coasts of Italy 
 and Sicily; but we came to a spot from which, as the captain 
 told me, in bright weather, the coasts of Apulia, the Mount 
 iEtna, and the Monte Nero, on Kephalonia, may be discovered. 
 But the state of the atmosphere deprived us of this extensive view. 
 
 It was near sun-set when the captain shewed me, through 
 his telescope, the Monte Nero on Kephalonia; it was the first 
 point of Greece that I beheld. But still we were not permitted 
 to approach the Ionian Islands; for the favourable wind fell, and 
 a complete calm, which ensued, held us fast, at a distance of 
 twenty-one Italian miles from Zante. Hundreds of playful 
 dolphins sported round our vessel, undisturbed by the silly at¬ 
 tempts of the sailors at catching some of them. These creatures 
 display a peculiar grace in every one of their movements, and 
 seem to be much attached to man; they only shew them¬ 
 selves in fine weather, moving in graceful circles round the 
 vessel, bounding from the blue waves, disappearing for a few 
 moments, and then, as in sport, re-appearing at another place. 
 
 After having waited a long time, a favourable wind sprang up, 
 and pushed us rapidly towards the island, which rose beauti¬ 
 fully before us from among the waves. Kephalonia, with its 
 high mountains, and Zakynthos (Zante) lay before me. 
 
 LETTER III. 
 
 Zante , July. 
 
 It was my intention to have proceeded hence to Patrass, there 
 to embark again for the isthmus, and go to Corinth, and then sail 
 from the other side of the isthmus to the neighbouring Piraeus. 
 This plan, undertaken with a little spirit, I thought completely 
 feasible, since it had been unanimously reported, in Italy and 
 Sicily, that Athens, with its castle, had long since fallen into the 
 hands of the Greeks. 
 
 I now learnt in Zante, from the report of French and Eng¬ 
 lish travellers, as well as from the Greeks themselves, that it 
 would be impossible to take this route. I was told that the fort 
 of Patrass was still in the hands of the Turks, the city being 
 reduced to a heap of ruins, and that sailing, in the Gulf of 
 Lepanto, was very dangerous, owing to the Greek and Turkish 
 pirates by which the gulf was infested; furthermore, that it would 
 be very hazardous to cross the isthmus, on account of the Turk¬ 
 ish and Greek banditti roving about there. To get to Corinth 
 would be utterly impossible. It would also be very difficult to 
 find any shipping at Kenkeri, on the other side of the isthmus, 
 for Salamis or Athens, all trade and communication being stop¬ 
 ped. But if I should even succeed in conquering all these dif- 
 
5 
 
 and the Ionian Islands. 
 
 Acuities and reach Athens, I should find the town almost en¬ 
 tirely abandoned, even the French and Austrian consuls having 
 left it. Moreover, the most valuable remains of antiquity being 
 contained in the fort, the ancient Acropolis, which was still 
 occupied by the Turks, I should be precluded from seeing it; 
 and, if I went upon the chance of the fort having been taken 
 within a month, (the last date of the accounts received from 
 that quarter,) there was but one way of reaching there, viz. to 
 sail to the island of Hydra, from whence I might find an oppor¬ 
 tunity for iEgina, Salamis, or even the Pireeus. 
 
 On the latter course I have, therefore, resolved, and am now 
 waiting for an opportunity for Hydra. But I am aware that at 
 the present period such a course would be difficult to meet with; 
 and, I am told, that I should more readily find one in Kalamata. 
 
 For this small town on the gulf of Coron, I have found three 
 travelling companions, two Englishmen, and a Hungarian. 
 They have resolved to proceed there overland, if there should be 
 no ship sailing there within a few days, and I am almost in¬ 
 clined to accompany them. 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 Zante, July. 
 
 We found no ship to sail for Kalamata, and, therefore, set 
 about the execution of our plan, in spite of all the warnings 
 and dissuasion of our friends. 
 
 Our departure was to be kept secret from the British autho¬ 
 rities in Zante, and we spoke about an intended excursion into 
 the interior of the island; whilst our embarkation took place at 
 night-time, and outside of the harbour. 
 
 We set sail at day-break, and within four hours-and-a-half 
 we landed at Pyrgo, on the coast of Morea. In this place of 
 misery ^nd wretchedness, we procured two guides with mules 
 to carry our luggage. 
 
 We soon reached the neat romantic village of Phloka, which 
 we found almost completely deserted. The scite of Olympia is 
 easily recognised. I wished to give some details of the remains 
 of this famous city; but, together with all my other property, I 
 have lost my journal and drawings. 
 
 Passing over the Kaldeus, near its junction with the Alpheas, 
 we saw Mount Saturn. At the foot of this mountain, towards 
 the north, lay the stadium, the shape of which may still be 
 traced ; towards the east, the theatre and the prytaneurn; on the 
 road towards the stadium, the temple of Hera; towards the south 
 the Leonidacum, and, probably, the study of Phidias. 
 
 To the south-east of this mountain, towards the Alpheas, 
 
6 
 
 Journey through Greece 
 
 stood the famous temple of Jupiter Olympus. Only a few in¬ 
 significant ruins, and some underwood, mark the scite of this 
 temple, from which the Turks of Lalla, to this day, dig for stones 
 which once belonged to it. The total demolition of this tem¬ 
 ple is owing to its uncommon splendour and internal richness; 
 whilst some older temples at Athens, Agrigent, &c. are almost 
 entire to this day. 
 
 Of the Pelopium and Hippodamium no traces are discern¬ 
 ible, no more than of the theatre. Of the Hippodrom alone, 
 some ruins are left. 
 
 Leaving Olympia towards evening, we took the road to Mi- 
 rakka, where we saw some ruins of buildings, probably of a 
 later date, and some ancient tombs. We passed near the small 
 seat, or rather tower, of Pyrgo, belonging to the Aga of Lalla, 
 now a fugitive, and which had been built of stones from the 
 temple of the Olympian Jupiter. We passed the night at 
 Mirakka. 
 
 The next morning we crossed the Alpheus near Palago-Pha- 
 naro; a passage which is not without its dangers, besides being 
 awkwardly managed; we, however, left our mules on the right- 
 bank, as we only went for the purpose of enjoying the view of 
 Elis and Arcadia, from the mountain of Palago-Phanaro. We 
 had much finer prospects on the succeeding days, and certainly 
 did not find it worth the trouble and danger of this crossing. 
 
 We soon passed over the Erimanthus and Ladon into Arcadia, 
 to the small village of Agiani or Hagios, on the scite of the an¬ 
 cient city of Hereea. The remaining mins of this once famous 
 city are but scanty; yet, occasionally, Doric columns of a porous 
 soft stone, of sixteen to eighteen inches in diameter, are found. 
 
 From Agiani the road again leads over the Alpheus, to which 
 we now bade adieu, and proceeded towards the Turkish fort of 
 Nerrowitza; which we, however, carefully avoided. 
 
 We thought of proceeding that day as far as Panlizza. when, 
 towards seven o’clock in the morning, our progress was stopped 
 in an unexpected manner. We suddenly perceived a party of 
 armed men, with three mules, coming down the hill, and directly 
 recognised them as Mainots. 
 
 We immediately took to our pistols, but, in the same moment 
 they fired a musket, and one of our mules fell dead on the spot. 
 After this introduction they called out to us to surrender our¬ 
 selves, otherwise they would murder us, which would be very 
 easy for them, 66 brave Spartans,” with such Frankish dogs. And 
 certainly such it was, as these Neo-Spartans were between thirty 
 and thirty-two in number, all armed fourfold; and our party 
 was only four men, armed with three brace of pistols, our Hun¬ 
 garian friend not having any weapons. 
 
and the Ionian Islands. 7 
 
 Nevertheless, we resolved to defend ourselves at all hazards. We 
 however told them, before that, we were friends, on our march 
 to the Greek army at Kalamata. This declaration made them 
 hesitate a moment: however, after having fired another shot, 
 they replied laconically, that this was an untruth, for people did 
 not go to Kalamata by land, but by sea; that we were English 
 spies; and that, moreover, the Franks were not wanted at 
 Kalamata. 
 
 Upon this they quickly came down upon us. They fired two 
 shots, one of which slightly wounded Mr. N. in the upper-arm, 
 the other killed the young muleteer of Pyrgo. In return, the 
 brave Englishman, S. disabled two of the robbers. For my part, I 
 shot one of them through the thigh, but the second pistol having 
 missed fire, I felt my senses leaving me, and I fell to the ground. 
 This was the consequence of a blow which I received with the 
 butt-end of a musket on the head and shoulder ; and when I 
 recovered from my swoon, I found myself and my three compa¬ 
 nions tied to trees. 
 
 I could not conceive why the robbers had left us alive, as it 
 would have been easy for them to have dispatched us. My com¬ 
 panions also told me, that this would have been the case, had 
 not the chief of the band, immediately after my falling, ordered 
 his men to desist from firing, and to carry us along with them tied. 
 This part of the plan, however, was finally abandoned, and we 
 were ultimately tied to the trees, and left to die the most miserable 
 death, or, perhaps, to be murdered the next day. Having 
 stripped us of every valuable, they went away with our provi¬ 
 sions, luggage, arms, and the remaining mule. 
 
 We exhausted all our strength to disengage ourselves, and 
 night came on, without our having succeeded. We now heard 
 somebody approaching us; it was our surviving muleteer, who 
 had concealed himself behind the rocks and trees as soon as the 
 firing commenced. He released us from our captivity, and not¬ 
 withstanding the wretchedness of our situation, w r e experienced 
 such relief as can only be conceived by those who may have un¬ 
 dergone similar sufferings. 
 
 But what were we to do now ? Deprived of every means, 
 a return seemed to be as impossible as any progress on our 
 journey. In this dilemma, Mr. S. uttered a shout, at the same 
 time picking up his cap, which, in the beginning of the contest, 
 had fallen among the stone, and which he held up with loud 
 exclamations of joy. At last he informed us that he had hidden 
 some pieces of gold in his cap, with which we might reach Kal^- 
 mata, where we should find further assistance. 
 
 Our joy now became equal to his, and we expressed it in 
 lively terms, as well as our gratitude for his generosity in offering 
 
8 
 
 Jov.rn.ey through Greece 
 
 to admit us to a share in his good fortune. We now resolved to 
 pass the night in the forest, to dress our wounds, and to proceed 
 the next day in our journey to Kalamata„ It was also discussed 
 whether we were to do any thing in the neighbouring village 
 towards the recovery of our property, and the prosecution of the 
 robbers. But our guide strongly dissuaded us from such a 
 step, urging the absence of all legal authorities throughout the 
 Morea at the present period, together with the danger of exciting 
 the robbers, who, probably, were still about here, or any of their 
 fellows, to revenge the attempt of bringing them to justice. We 
 therefore desisted from this scheme, till we should reach Kala- 
 mata, whither the muleteer engaged to guide us, in hopes, as we 
 anticipated ourselves, that we should there be able to indemnify 
 him for his trouble and loss. 
 
 It may be imagined that we spent a very gloomy night. 
 Besides, Mr. N. and I could not sleep from pain ; therefore, as 
 soon as the day began to dawn, we set out on our melancholy 
 march. 
 
 Our road led us over a beautiful succession of hill and dale, 
 from the former of which we enjoyed a most delightful view into 
 Arcadia. But owing to our exhaustion from hunger, thirst, and 
 fatigue, and from a consideration for our wounded friend, whose 
 wound was but slightly drest, and who suffered from fever, we 
 did not proceed further than the village of Ampeliona. 
 
 In this village we again found inhabitants and cattle. We 
 supplied ourselves with bread, milk, meat, and eggs; but owing 
 to the poor inhabitants not knowing our gold, it was with diffi¬ 
 culty that we persuaded them to accept a zechine in payment. 
 
 The next morning we arrived at Paulizza, which is the ancient 
 city of Phigalia, now consisting of a few wretched houses. We 
 traced the whole circumference of the city wall, which is de¬ 
 fended by many towers, some of vdiich are situated upon rocks, 
 and on the borders of deep ravines. On the east side, one of its 
 antique gates is yet standing. It is formed of large stones, joined 
 without any kind of cement or lime. 
 
 In one of the churches are some fragments of a small doric 
 temple. In another we saw antique columns, two feet in diam¬ 
 eter ; and along the walls, two rows of columns of only sixteen 
 inches in diameter. On the outside of this church we perceived 
 some large blocks of stone, which seemed to have formed the 
 foundation of a temple. 
 
 Owing to its elevated position, Paulizza is very cold in winter. 
 The mountains about here are truly stupendous, and open, like 
 gates, with views into the wildly-beautiful valleys of Arcadia. The 
 climate of Arcadia is by no means genial; the country is strikingly 
 grand, and reminded me of 'Tyrol, and still more of Salzburg. 
 
and the Ionian Islands. 
 
 9 
 
 Only the vegetation of a tropical climate, such as wild thyme, 
 rosemary, lavender, and myrtles; pomegranate, cactus, fig, mul¬ 
 berry, and mastix-trees, remind the traveller of his being in the 
 south. 
 
 Most of the houses on our road we found deserted; therefore 
 being still provided with provisions, which we brought with us 
 from Pampeliona, we pushed on as far as the ruins of Bassae, where 
 we encamped between its splendid columns. 
 
 The famous ruins of the temple of Apollo Epithurias, are some 
 of the finest and most splendid now to be met with in Greece. 
 From hence the famous bas-relief was taken which now forms the 
 principal ornament of the British Museum, and which represents 
 the contests between the Lapithes and Centaurs, and those be¬ 
 tween the Greeks and the Amazons. 
 
 This temple lies between two hills, crowned bv ancient oaks. 
 It is one hundred and twenty-five feet long, and forty-eight wide. 
 The number of columns on the longest side is fifteen, the num¬ 
 ber of those in the front and the back are only six. The interior 
 was a hypcethrum. The cell was surrounded by Ionic columns, 
 with recesses between them, which, probably, were once filled up 
 with statues. These Ionic columns supported the famous frieze 
 which was forcibly carried off by the English, under the protec¬ 
 tion of an armed force of sixty men from Zante; Weli-Pacha, 
 son of the famous Ali of Janina, who was then pacha of Tri- 
 polizza, having refused to give it up. This temple was built of 
 very handsome and durable kind of stone. 
 
 The prospect from this spot is as beautiful as extensive. 
 
 We passed the night on one of the hills near the temple. The 
 next morning we proceeded to Krano, a small village; but which, 
 probably, was the ancient Messenian city of Kromon. 
 
 The road from Krano to Sakona, a distance of about five 
 hours, is chiefly down hill. Sakona lies in the plain of Messeni. 
 
 We passed near the remains of an antique city wall, at the 
 foot of a hill, and crossed over a number of small streams and 
 rivulets, which, fortunately for us, were nearly dried up. 
 
 Close by the vdlage of Skala we found, on the top of a hill in 
 the defile, a species of natural mosaickof a very singular appear¬ 
 ance. This village probably occupies the site of Orchalia. 
 
 An hour’s journey beyond Skala, we came to the foundation 
 of a small temple, situated on a rock, at the foot of which is a 
 spring and a small pond. This is the source of the larger Pamisus, 
 in which children were purified. 
 
 It was rather late in the evening when we arrived at Kalamata. 
 This town is situated in a smiling and fertile country, resem-> 
 bling a garden. It lies at the foot of a hill, at a distance of above 
 Voyages and Travels, Vol . VIII. C 
 
10 Journey through Greece 
 
 an Italian mile from the sea ; the fort, lately taken from the Turks, 
 lying by the side of it. It is, probably, the ancient Kalama, 
 where the temple of Diana Timnatis stood, although some make 
 it the site of the antique city of Steng-Klarus. 
 
 LETTER Y. 
 
 Zante, July. 
 
 We came to Kalamata, both from inclination and necessity, 
 to enlist in the Greek army, whose head-quarters are in this 
 town. I have determined to speak of the treatment I suffered 
 there from the Greeks, with all the lenity which the good cause 
 in bad hands deserves. 
 
 We certainly found what was termed the head-quarters, i. e . 
 a collection of men who styled themselves officers. They were 
 Greeks, with the exception of a few Frenchmen and a Polander 
 from Napoleon’s lancers. 
 
 Our first step was to wait upon the Duodekadi, and lay our 
 complaint before them, in the hope of causing the apprehension 
 of the robbers, by giving an exact description of the lost articles; 
 having learnt from good authority that they were partly inhabi¬ 
 tants of the town; on which account, perhaps, they were favoured 
 by these magistrates. We met with a very cold reception, and 
 they seemed surprized that we should complain of having been 
 robbed in the Morea. They refused to investigate the mat¬ 
 ter, as being useless and impossible. 
 
 We were not only disappointed of assistance where w T e had a 
 right to expect it, nor did we experience the least commisera¬ 
 tion from the Greeks. They treated us with the contempt usu¬ 
 ally shewn by the Moreats towards the Franks; a treatment as 
 ridiculous as inconsistent in people who are merely dependant, 
 and who have so pressingly solicited foreign assistance. 
 
 There is, indeed, no want of high-sounding phrases, in which 
 the Spartan descent is repeated ; they, however, neither possess 
 real Grecian spirit, military skill, just conception of their high 
 origin, or subordination. 
 
 Moreover, there was a terrible confusion in their affairs. The 
 troops and officers were but seldom paid, there being always a 
 scarcity of money among the Greeks of the Morea. The people 
 either live by pillage or by their own means: of course, they 
 could not yet provide a proper supply of provisions and arms, 
 and the small quantity of cannon and ammunition imported by 
 French and American ships upon credit, are far from being 
 sufficient. 
 
 Besides, they had no plan in their operations, and the people 
 
and the Ionian Islands. 11 
 
 of Kalamata thought it quite ridiculous to think of it, since 
 Prince D. Ypsilanti and the hero Koloktroni were stationed 
 before Tripolizza. They thought there was nothing else to do 
 but to take the fortresses from the hands of the Turks. This, 
 however, is no easy task, considering the obstinacy with which 
 the Turks defend themselves in them, and rather endure the 
 greatest privations than surrender to the Greeks. In addition to 
 this, several of them have large garrisons. 
 
 Of honour, the best essence of an army, these people have no 
 idea. Their spirit is not that of bravery, but that of villany, 
 which considers all methods of conquest justifiable. 
 
 The Moreats have already been reproached of being more 
 cruel and malicious towards each other, than the Turks were 
 towards them. This charge is literally true. They now perse¬ 
 cute and denounce each other, in the same manner as they for¬ 
 merly used the pachas, from covetousness, envy, or hatred. 
 
 These soi-disant officers cannot brook to see each other pro¬ 
 moted; and they are especially offended when such a distinction 
 is conferred on a foreigner: a feeling which I should not blame 
 if they were independent of them ; but they ought not to reject 
 what is indispensable to them. 
 
 It is almost impossible for a European to describe the common 
 soldiers, who, for the most part, are Mainots. With the pride 
 of their ancestors, of whom, however, they have but confused 
 ideas, their character unites villany and cowardice. In general, 
 their courage only extends to stealing a sheep, a cow, or a horse, 
 but it is lost when they are to meet an enemy face to face, with¬ 
 out any prospect of gain. 
 
 The Turks are personally braver than the Moreat Greeks. 
 This fact was hitherto displayed on every occasion, but particu¬ 
 larly during the siege of the small fort of Monombasia, on the 
 5th of April. The Turks wished to repulse the Greeks, who 
 were four times stronger than themselves, by a sally. But as 
 often as they came out of their fort, their cowardly opponents 
 fled. The Turks now thought of a stratagem for the purpose 
 of engaging their enemies, a hey, therefore, put a cow outside 
 the gate from which they intended to sally forth. In the night 
 the Greeks went into the snare. They approached, in order to 
 seize the lowing cow, and while engaged with unloosing her, the 
 Turks fell upon them, killed many, and took still more, who, 
 however, did not survive the next day. 
 
 They commenced this siege with one large cannon, with the 
 management of which they were still less acquainted than the 
 Turks were of their artillery. With this gun, however, they 
 fired from such a distance that it was impossible for their balls 
 to reach the fort;—they were, however, secure against the artil- 
 
 C2 
 
12 
 
 Journey through Greece 
 
 lery of the Turks. Thus they uselessly spent a large quantity 
 of precious ammunition, and after a few days they went off with 
 great noise and threats. The Turks maintained themselves yet 
 some time longer, till hunger and want compelled them to sur- 
 render. But, contrary to the capitulation, the whole of the garri¬ 
 son was put to the sword. 
 
 On seeing these people stalking about with two pistols, a 
 takan, or long dagger, and a knife in their belt, with a musket 
 on their shoulder, and a large supply of cartridges about them, 
 we are apt to think that it is the effect of a barbarous courage 
 as with the Turks, whom the Greeks mimic in every particular. 
 But this is not the case. They load, it is true, their enemies 
 with the most opprobrious terms, which are as punctually re¬ 
 turned by them, but they seldom await them, if they approach 
 courageously and in equal numbers. 
 
 The Frenchmen and the Polander had been entrusted with 
 the command of a few troops of Moreats, and were styled cap¬ 
 tains. But they were sensible of the difficulty and unpleasant¬ 
 ness of their situation. Hated by their men as “ Frenkish dogs,” 
 and in every way unsupported, they were left without any influ¬ 
 ence, and were afraid of falling, some day or other, sacrifices to 
 their hatred of foreigners. Moreover, they hardly ever received 
 any pay; and they ardently wished to leave the country, but had 
 no means carry their wish into execution. 
 
 We had seen and heard enough to be resolved rather to suffer 
 death than join these vile bands; and, therefore, determined to 
 leave the Morea as soon as possible. Only two zechines were 
 left of S.’s money; but his generosity would not allow him to 
 save himself alone from the wreck of our hopes. The master 
 of a Zantiot boat, however, agreed, for this money, not only 
 to give us a passage to Zante, but also to board us during the 
 voyage. 
 
 We left Kalamata the following morning. In our passage we 
 saw, at a distance, the fortresses of Koron and Metun, which are 
 still in the hands of the Turks, and that of Navaria (Neacastro) 
 lately taken by the Greeks. 
 
 Having arrived off Zante, the difficulty was to land unob¬ 
 served, and to appear as if we came from the interior, in order 
 to avoid being held to a quarantine. During the night the 
 landing was effected at an unguarded part of the breakers, and 
 jumping from rock to rock, we succeeded in gaining the shore. 
 The boat again took to the open sea, and the next morning we 
 entered the harbour of Zante. 
 
 We also reached the town undiscovered, and the report was 
 generally believed that we came to examine the naphtha-springs 
 in the interior. 
 
and the Ionian Islands. 1 3 
 
 By the kind assistance of the persons to whom we had been 
 recommended, we obtained here enough to enable us to procure 
 some linen, and to think of a farther voyage. 
 
 Our roads now separated. I determined to return by Venice 
 to the south of Germany; but my companions wished to go to 
 Malta. They were enabled to leave a short time before mvself. 
 The moment of our parting I shall remember through life; al¬ 
 though it was silent. 
 
 The rising of the Greeks against the unjust and barbarous con¬ 
 duct of the pachas, the attempt of shaking off the yoke of a 
 government which not only approved of their inhuman treat¬ 
 ment, but frequently ordered it,—is, unquestionably, a glorious 
 sera in modem history. 
 
 The Porte could, in my opinion, no longer’ be considered as a 
 legitimate power in Europe, when she attacked those undestruc- 
 tible rights of her subjects which they possess as human beings, 
 rights which form the basis of all European governments, and 
 which are the condition in the fulfilment of which alone a go¬ 
 vernment can aspire to legitimacy. 
 
 The rising of the Greeks against such a government ought 
 not, therefore, to be classed with the revolutionary attempts lately 
 made in other countries. 
 
 The Greeks do not desire a partial change in their govern¬ 
 ment, but they demand common justice and humanity; and as 
 this was not to be obtained in a friendly way, they took to arms 
 to render themselves altogether independent of that power. 
 
 Should the Porte, however, now be induced to grant the 
 Greeks, under proper securities, such a legal government as, for 
 instance, is enjoyed by the Austrian subjects in Germany, she 
 would re-enter into her legitimacy towards the Greeks, and any 
 farther resistance on their part might then be called disloyal. 
 
 But as it is, I consider the insurrection of the Greeks as being 
 fully j ustified after the treatment they have experienced. Similar 
 attempts were, made during the last century in the Morea and 
 northern Greece, but without success. 
 
 But to call it a national war of the Greeks against the Turks, 
 is decidedly erroneous. Whole tribes of them, and those among 
 the most renowned of antiquity, the inhabitants of Attica, 
 Megaris, Thebes, &c. have hitherto kept completely aloof from 
 the contest; upwards of five thousand male Moreats have fled from 
 the Peloponnese to the island of Zante, under the pretence of 
 their having no arms to fight for their country. This, however, is 
 an untruth, since it is well known that every Moreat has his pis¬ 
 tols, muskets, daggers, long knives, &c. which, in the true 
 Turkish style, they always carry along with them. 
 
14 
 
 Journey through Greece 
 
 In the same manner above three thousand inhabitants of 
 ancient Acarnania have taken refuge on the islands of Cepha- 
 lonia, St. Maura, &c. 
 
 With the exception of a few princes, who perhaps hope to 
 acquire thrones through it, the higher orders have hitherto not 
 participated in the war. They have not only withdrawn their 
 support, but there are even many who disapprove of the measure. 
 
 They read here with much regret of the patriotic sacrifices of 
 the Greeks, reported in foreign newspapers. This unworthy 
 exclusion too is the cause of the want of money among their 
 armies; which causes so much delay in their operations, and 
 deprives them of the means of purchasing the necessary imple¬ 
 ments of war. 
 
 It is well known that the war on the Danube broke out too 
 soon. It is said that it was only to have begun in the autumn 
 of 1822. Nothing was prepared, nothing planned; hence the 
 confusion in their operations. 
 
 Prince Alexander Ypsilanti has shewn his degree of capacity 
 in the miscarried campaign on the Danube. His brother Dimitiz 
 Ypsilanti and prince Katakusi in the Morea, are possessed of 
 military talent; under them command Alexander Kantakuzens, 
 the brothers Kisko and Kolaktroni, who is a brave leader, who, 
 before the arrival of D. Ypsilanti, had done almost every thing 
 that has been accomplished in this part of Greece. 
 
 But for undertakings like these extraordinary talents are re¬ 
 quired; common skill will not suffice. 
 
 Let us only consider what has been done in the Morea, since 
 March, when the insurrection first broke out. 
 
 As the Turks, immediately on the breaking out of the revolt, 
 withdrew into the fortresses, the Greeks had no enemy to con¬ 
 tend with in the open field, and there was no need of thousands 
 of people flying before them. The Mainots and Moreats, as 
 usual, made much noise and confusion, robbed and murdered 
 as much as possible; but they only took a few of the smallest 
 forts by starving the garrisons. The larger fortresses, however, 
 are still held by the Turks, in spite of the want to which the 
 garrisons in them are exposed. Thus they occupy Napoli di 
 Romania, with a garrison (as they say) of fifteen thousand men, 
 Koron with four thousand men, Motun with two thousand men, 
 Patrass with six thousand men, and Tripolizza with eight thou¬ 
 sand men. But even if these should at length fall, the merit of 
 taking them will be but trifling, as the Turks had no time to pro¬ 
 vide themselves in their fortresses against being besieged, and 
 are now dying from want of provisions. With such an enemy 
 within, the larger the garrison the sooner they must fall. 
 
 /, 
 
and the Ionian Islands. 
 
 15 
 
 Besides, it is well known that the Turks have no knowledge 
 of fortification or the management of artillery, and are therefore 
 entirely restricted to their personal bravery and endurance; with 
 which they have hitherto been able, although oppressed by famine, 
 to resist the many attacks and storms of the Greeks. 
 
 Tripolizza was besieged these two months by Ypsilanti and 
 Katakusi, whose army was estimated from between twenty to 
 three thousand men; but without being able to reduce the 
 famished garrison to surrender. 
 
 Thus, within five months and a half very little has been 
 effected against the enemy, although so much reduced in means of 
 defence. Only since the arrival of the princes in Morea the mili¬ 
 tary affairs have obtained a better form, although not a better 
 spirit; moreover, all the improvements are confined to the spot 
 where prince Ypsilanti commands in person. 
 
 Much more however has been effected by the islanders of the 
 Archipelago, especially by the inhabitants of Hydra and Spezia. 
 Their naval forces are considerable, and they are daily gaining 
 some advantage over their enemies. 
 
 The heroine Bobolina was from the latter island; she armed 
 three ships against the Turks, two of which were commanded 
 by her sons, and the largest by herself. She lost one of her 
 sons in the contest; but she was then as much animated by the 
 feeling of revenge as by the love of her country. She already has 
 taken many ships. 
 
 Another fair heroine, of the family Morogeni of Constantino¬ 
 ple, fitted out several ships against the Turks for herself and sons 
 in June last. 
 
 It is more than probable that the Greeks will always keep the 
 superiority on sea, and that therefore the islands at least will be 
 wrested from the Turks. But it would be still more gratifying 
 if there were more union and concord between the different 
 islands, and would be sooner conducive to victory. 
 
 On the other side of the isthmus, especially in Rumili, the 
 affairs of the Greeks stand much better. On the beginning of 
 the siege of Janina, the Turkish forces were very considerable. But 
 on the Greeks separating from them they were reduced to five 
 thousand, with which they continue besieging Ali-Pacha, but 
 are at the same time hemed in themselves by a Greek host of 
 about twenty-five thousand men, Albanese, Epirots, Pargists, 
 Suliots, &c. under the command of Sturnari and Zonkas, who 
 are sometimes joined by the brave Sulliot chief Roti, with his 
 wandering troop. 
 
 These brave tribes, to which perhaps we may also soon reckon 
 the Servians, for the moment laid aside their hatred towards the 
 southern Greeks, and bravely opposed the Turks. They took 
 
16 
 
 Journey through Greece 
 
 Sulli in Epirus and one of tlie suburbs of Parga, and it is hoped 
 that the generous Pargiots will soon again repossess themselves of 
 the tombs of their fathers. There too the brave Odysseus was 
 very active with his small army. 
 
 It is well known that the power of the Porte is much weakened 
 and paralized; but, notwithstanding this, she is still very pow r - 
 erful, and the bravery of her troops has hitherto proved an ada¬ 
 mantine wall against the aggressions of the Greeks, whose armies 
 are deficient of many advantages possessed by the Turks. 
 
 Such as I know the Greeks they are, as yet, perfectly unripe 
 for the formation of a federative government. This truth had 
 been long observed by the more enlightened part of the nation; 
 and, therefore, they established those schools at Smyrna, Chios, 
 Cydonia, &c. which, being connected among each other, and 
 with the foreign travels and studies of these young men, were to 
 prepare the nation for their future enjoyment of liberty. But 
 this wdse plan was abandoned too soon, and the present prema¬ 
 ture insurrection broke out. 
 
 The Greeks want a powerful central government, whether 
 their government be monarchical or federative. But they ought 
 to have a severe struggle before they can be matured for such a 
 state of civilization. For if by means of foreign assistance they 
 should obtain their independence, as it were by a sudden start, 
 we might expect to see a repetition of those scenes which deso¬ 
 lated Hellas after Alexander’s death. The common enemy hav¬ 
 ing once disappeared, individual ambition w T ould exert itself, 
 and we should perhaps find Ypsilanti, Katakusi, Kantakuzens, 
 and a host of others fighting for the possession of the throne of 
 Stambul. 
 
 But even should not this civil strife take place, and should one 
 individual, without opposition, obtain the empire of the east, it 
 would require a great genius to neutralize and amalgamate the 
 heterogeneous parts which compose the Greek population, and 
 to introduce an improved mode of government and administration 
 among them; but such a genius has not yet appeared in Greece. 
 
 If I yet consider the horrid murders committed at Con¬ 
 stantinople, Smyrna, and elsewdiere, which will be repeated as 
 long as the smallest Turkish power shall remain in Greece; if I 
 consider that the cruelties of the Turks are every where returned 
 by the Greeks; if I consider the dreadful slaughter of thousands 
 of Jews, I feel myself induced, as a man and a Christian, to wish 
 that some great neighbouring power would interfere, and compel 
 the Porte to grant to the Greeks a general amnesty, a just and 
 equitable treatment for the future, security for their persons and 
 property, and to watch over the execution of these concessions, 
 with a powerful army stationed in the country, and thus put a 
 
and the Ionian Islands. 
 
 17 
 
 stop to the exterminating war between both parties, and to re¬ 
 store, at least, an outward peace, till time and circumstances 
 should bring about other changes. 
 
 Such is the posterity of the old Spartans ; such are the Moreots, 
 who, among the Greeks are not only the haughtiest, but, also, 
 the most cowardly. Whither has the fortitude and contempt of 
 life which characterized their ancestors fled? Whither are those 
 gone to whom earthly possessions and bodily pains were equally 
 indifferent? That race is fled, never to return, like every thing 
 great and beautiful that is once gone; it will not rise again, 
 —certainly not in this generation.* 
 
 *No possible reliance can be placed on the accounts of the war given by 
 Greeks only. Thus, towards the close of July it vvas reported in Zante, for 
 at least the eighth time, that Tripolizza had surrendered; that the fort of 
 Patrasso had been taken by storm after a dreadful slaughter ; in the same 
 manner that it was afterwards announced at Corfu, that Solinich, with her 
 immense treasures, had surrendered to Odysseus. 
 
 The following facts respecting Janina may be depended upon, as coming 
 from a very good source. The town of Janina, situated on the left side of 
 the lake, and which contains about 60,000 inhabitants, is in the hands of the 
 Turks. It has three forts, named Kuta, Lidarize, and Kastro ; all of which 
 are still in the hands of Ali-Pacha. Into the latter, which is the strongest, 
 he has throwm himself, with all his immense treasures which were before in 
 Lidarize, but w hich he had removed in time. These three forts have, for 
 some time past, been besieged by a body of 5000 Turks. They were three 
 times stronger when the siege began, yet when the Greeks separated from 
 them, only 5000 remained. Since the rising of the Greeks these Turks are 
 surrounded by a Greek army, said to be 25,000 strong. It appears this 
 measure has had no particular result. The two Greek leaders are Sturnari 
 and Zouka, and they are now and then joined by the wandering troop of the 
 brave Suliiot Noti. 
 
 Ali-Pacha has not yet passed over to the Christian religion, nor has lie 
 taken a Christian name. This erroneous statement was caused by his once 
 hoisting the Greek standard, a silver cross raised above the crescent, on the 
 towers of Kastro, w hich he did to demonstrate his friendship for them. 
 
 It is impossible to give an exact account of the Greek armies. The com¬ 
 
 mon calculation is: 
 
 Under Demetrv Ypsilanti’s chief command, although divided into several 
 corps, and engaged with the siege of the different fortresses 30,000 men 
 Before Janina, under the command of Sturnari and Zouka, con¬ 
 sisting ofSulliots, Epirots, Pargiots, Albanes, Montenegrins, &c. 25,000 
 The corps of Odysseus - 4,000 
 
 The corps of Sulliots and Pargiots commanded by Noti 3,000 
 
 The remains of the army of A. Ypsilanti on the Danube 3,000 
 
 Various undefined bodies, which appear sometimes in one 
 place, sometimes in another, separate and re-united - 5,000 
 
 70,000 
 
 On the other hand the Turkish armies employed against the Greeks are 
 estimated as follows: 
 
 The army of Moldavia and Wallachia and their dependencies 60,000 men 
 The besieging army before Janina - - 5,000 
 
 Voyages and Travels, Vol. VIII . D 
 
}$ Journey through Greece 
 
 LETTER VI. 
 
 Zante , August. 
 
 This island is vejpy frequently visited with destructive earth¬ 
 quakes, which occur almost regularly every twenty or twenty-five 
 years. The concussions generally proceed from N. W. to S. E. 
 accompanied by gusts of wind in the same direction, which often 
 last for several days, during which a change also occurs in the 
 atmosphere. 
 
 All the earthquakes which have taken place in modern times, 
 particularly those of Lisbon and Calabria, were felt in the Ionian 
 islands, but more especially in Zante. The same effects have 
 been produced by the eruptions of Etna and Vesuvius. 
 
 Those earthquakes, which arise from the besom of the island, 
 and terminate in undulating motions, are the most dangerous. 
 They return at regular periods, and at such times put the inha¬ 
 bitants in consternation. Traces of their destructive effects are 
 every where to be met with. Those of 1650, 1673, 1696, 1713, 
 1727, 1742, 1767, 1791, and 1820, are most distinguished for 
 their violence. 
 
 That of 1767 began on the 11th of July, and lasted, with 
 short interruptions, till the 9tli of August. Every day concussions 
 were felt, seemingly arising from the centre of the earth, which 
 terminated in undulating motions. Slighter concussions were 
 felt even two months later. Besides its dreadful ravages, this 
 earthquake also occasioned an epidemic disease. 
 
 On the 2d of November, 1791, this scourge, with all its ter¬ 
 rors, returned with a hot and sultry atmosphere, and a concus¬ 
 sion from S. E. to N. W. It lasted for several minutes, but was 
 not felt with equal force in all parts of the island. The whole 
 
 Garrisons in the different fortresses of Rumili - 20,000 men 
 
 Garrisons in the different forts of Morea -■ « 35,000 
 
 120,000 men 
 
 But I repeat that these statements cannot be depended upon. No one 
 knows the truth. We may, however, suspect that the foregoing account is 
 in favour of the Greeks. 
 
 Unprejudiced Greeks do justice to the excellent and quick administra¬ 
 tion of justice among the Turks, especial!} 7 in Constantinople , Thessalonica , 
 Adrianople, Magnesia , Smyrna , and in the whole of Anatolia, and relate 
 anecdotes respecting it which excite the highest admiration. They justly 
 fear that this at least would he unfavourably altered upon Greece becoming 
 free. Old Smyrniots still remember the justice and uncommonly good qua¬ 
 lities of Karasmanoglu and Zapanoglu. The Greeks in those cities and dis¬ 
 tricts were much favoured by the Porte, frequently even to the detrimen- 
 of the Turks themselves. Only the despotic horrors of the Pachas wer« 
 insufferable. 
 
and the Ionian Islands . ill 
 
 of the western part remained uninjured, but all the buildings in 
 the eastern part, situated on eminences, especially the fortress of 
 Zante, were completely destroyed; and six villages at the foot 
 of the mountains were totally changed into heaps of rubbish. 
 In the city not a house remained without being more or less 
 injured; many were entirely overthrown. It was a remarkable 
 circumstance, that low houses, the walls of which had been 
 consolidated by age, suffered the most; whilst modern houses 
 of three or four stories high were hardly impaired. Square 
 pillars, raised for the support of roofs, were seen turned upon 
 their axis. One wall of four feet in diameter, and six feet 
 high, was entirely demolished, and, as it were, reduced to dust, 
 whilst close by it a thin, slightly-built w r all had stood its ground. 
 In several parts of the coast the earth opened. During the first 
 week or ten days after this event, a dismal calm prevailed at sea. 
 The air was hot and sultry, and filled with a dense vapour. The 
 sun seemed perfectly pale and burning hot. Every where, but 
 particularly in St. Mark’s square, in Zante, w as a strong smell of 
 sulphur. Every day brought some concussions, but considering 
 the shattered state of the houses, they did little damage. Above 
 twenty persons were buried under the ruins, and thirty were 
 wounded; but many more died through fear. 
 
 The earthquake of 1820—21 seemed to keep its ruinous effects 
 from the hills, only extending its devastations along the coast. 
 Zante suffered dreadfully by it, particularly the streets near the 
 sea-side. In other respects it commenced in the same manner as 
 that of 1790. It began on the 16th of December, and lasted 
 for a fortnight with unequal violence. 
 
 On the 6th of January, 1821, the strongest concussions were 
 felt. They caused the greatest destruction in Zante. After the 
 6th a most furious hurricane excited the sea to such a degree, 
 that it produced inundations, which did much mischief. This 
 earthquake, unlike the former, singled out the high build¬ 
 ings. I lived in one of those houses w T hich had been but 
 scantily repaired, being without windows, stair-rails, and other 
 conveniences. I can look through the shattered walls. The 
 yard is full of ruins, over which an old orange-tree, which as 
 yet, preserved under the fall of the adjoining houses, raises 
 its blooming top. In the same manner, a neighbouring garden 
 lies covered with stones and rubbish, but in the midst of these 
 stand a beautiful pomegranate-tree and an oleander, both in 
 bloom! How wretched was the sight of Zante in those days of* 
 desolation. All houses, more or less damaged, stood open, forsaken 
 by their inhabitants. The terrified people of both sexes and 
 every station, void of every feeling except that of danger, ran 
 against each other in the most horrid confusion, hastening to th# 
 
20 Journey through Greece 
 
 image of their saint, from whom alone they expected help* 
 Towards the middle of January all danger was past. 
 
 The earthquakes are often followed for a long time by rain 
 and fog, which are productive of epidemic disorders, which 
 prove always more violent and obstinate at Zante than in any 
 other part of the islands. 
 
 Herodotus mentions having seen a lake on Zakynthus which 
 produced bitumen (naphtha) ; any thing thrown into this lake, 
 he says, passes under-ground, and again appears, four stades off, 
 on the surface of the sea. 
 
 in the west of the island, near the village of Chieri, is a beau¬ 
 tiful plain of about three leagues in circumference, surrounded 
 by mountains. Here the air is noxious, and causes protracted 
 fevers ; as is evident from the pallid countenances of the inhabi¬ 
 tants. In the middle of this plain, about a quarter of a league 
 from the sea-shore, are two naphtha-springs, at a distance of about 
 200 paces from each other. They seem to take their rise in the 
 interior of the earth to the east, turning to the west towards the 
 sea. In these the naphtha is always boiling and bubbling up. It 
 has a very strong smell. The surface of the naphtha, to the depth 
 of about a foot, is covered with water of a light brown colour. 
 This water, notwithstanding the perpetual motion of the naphtha, 
 seems to remain unmoved; and it is remarkable, that both the 
 naphtha and the water are perfectly cool, even during the greatest 
 summer heat. The boiling of the naphtha, however, is stronger 
 in summer than in the other seasons; but during the earthquakes 
 it is said to be the most violent; a proof that they both proceed 
 from the same cause. 
 
 Without these springs the earthquakes on the island would be 
 more violent and more frequent. They seem to serve them as 
 conductors, for near them the concussions are the strongest. I 
 noticed here the same peculiarity as in the Solfatara near Na¬ 
 ples, and on several spots on Vesuvius and Etna. On stamping 
 forcibly against the ground, I felt the earth for some time 
 trembling all around, and heard a strong echo from the deep 
 within. Often, also, near these springs, as well as in other 
 places, a violent subterraneous noise and howling^is heard, which 
 sometimes last for days. The whole plain, probably, is hollow, 
 and was formerly a lake, which, by the falling down of some of 
 the hills, during an earthquake, may have been reduced to the 
 present shape. 
 
 The English have frequently attempted to find the bottom of 
 these springs, but without effect; and every buoyant substance 
 thrown into them will always re-appear on the surface of the sea. 
 
 Towards the month of April the naphtha in these springs so 
 accumulates, that they sometimes run over. It is at this period 
 
and the Ionian Islands. 
 
 21 
 
 that the substance is collected with pails. From the pits in 
 which the natives collect the naphtha they carry the water into 
 the sea, by means of channels. The naphtha is then put in casks 
 or leather bags, and sold to be used as pitch. 
 
 The water of the larger pond is of a very saline taste, and 
 preserves a strong smell of pitch. But the water in the other 
 pond is sweet, and has but little smell. The latter is of great 
 efficacy in the fevers which so frequently attack the inhabitants. 
 It has also been successfully employed by foreign sailors as a 
 remedy for the scurvy. 
 
 When dried in the sun, this naphtha forms an almost inde¬ 
 structible cement; which may be seen on the stones with which 
 the natives have lined their collecting-pits. The naphtha which 
 has flowed between them has so closely bound them together, 
 that they may more easily be broken than severed. 
 
 But these naphtha-springs are not the only volcanic indications 
 on the island. In the north-west of it I saw, near the Capo del 
 Grotto, not far from the sea-shore, the spring of sulphureous 
 water which, owing to its powerful smell, the natives call B§o/o,ovs§o, 
 stinking water. This they use for various disorders in their 
 cattle. There are other mineral springs in the island, which, 
 however, I did not see ; for instance, a kind of chalybeate, which 
 is said to be very salubrious. 
 
 Near the Cape Skinari are deep caverns, from which flows a 
 white oily substance, which coagulates on the surface of the 
 water. It is, most probably, a good species of naphtha, but it 
 has not as yet been examined. During calms, large stripes of it 
 draw over the sea. All the qualities of this naphtha, especially 
 its powerful and disagreeable smell, called to my mind the St. 
 Quirinus’ oil at Tegernsee. 
 
 The discovery of fresh-water-springs on the sea-shore is a re¬ 
 markable circumstance. The sea-water sometimes covers them 
 to the depth of a foot, without depriving them of any of their 
 sweetness. Tney are said to be found on the shores of several 
 of the Ionian islands, at a depth of one foot under the sand, 
 after the sea-water has been removed from them. 
 
 The island of Zante, almost on every point, shews rocks pro¬ 
 jecting into the sea; in these are several deep caverns, said to be 
 connected by subterraneous roads and passages, but which have 
 never been investigated. 
 
 Robert, Wheler, and Spon, and more recent travellers, have 
 called Zante the golden island , and in Italy it bears the poetical 
 name of fios di Levante. This I did not think very a-propos , on 
 arriving, in the height of summer, and seeing the naked mountains, 
 torn asunder by earthquakes, and almost cleared of human habi¬ 
 tations; for Virgil’s nemo rosa Zacynthus is one of those terms 
 
22 Journey through Greece 
 
 of antiquity, which now-a-days have lost their truth. There are 
 no forests; but, on penetrating into the interior of the island, 
 the plain between and on the declivity of the mountains, displays 
 both beauty and abundance, so that the title of woody is in part 
 verified. 
 
 Yet, as this abundance is solely confined to currants and oil, 
 it seems to be of rather a precarious nature : for their other wants 
 of corn, cattle, &c. the Zantiots produce for four months only 
 of the year in their own island, and for the remaining two- 
 thirds of the year, supplies are drawn from the Morea for cash. 
 The corn is partly imported from Egypt and partly from the 
 Black Sea. But when the passolina , or currants, by a single 
 untimely shower, are spoiled, or when the plague or political 
 circumstances, as at this time, oppose their connection with the 
 Morea, then the Zantiots have not even money to purchase the 
 most indispensible necessaries of life from the Moreats. 
 
 The currants, called here uva-passa or passolina^ w ere brought 
 from Corinth, and introduced into this island about two hun¬ 
 dred and twenty-five years ago. They succeeded so well that 
 the greatest part of the island, where formerly the corn required 
 for home consumption was grown, was gradually given up to 
 their cultivation. This little island now, in good years, pro¬ 
 duces between twelve and thirteen millions of pounds of these 
 grapes; in common years, between ten and eleven millions. The 
 currant-trade of Zante is almost entirely in the hands of the 
 English. 
 
 The vine, which produces this grape, is low, and requires 
 seven or eight years before it begins to bear properly. But, on 
 the other hand, it lasts for centuries, and some were shewn to 
 me that were said to be two hundred years old. These grapes are 
 small, about the size of our currants. The fresh grape is also 
 of a very pleasant taste, possessing a little acidity, which natu¬ 
 ralizes their great sweetness. Their treatment is the same as in 
 Italy, but requires infinite care. The careless and lazy Neapo¬ 
 litans and Sicilians, who take so little concern about their ex¬ 
 cellent vines, would not be fit for the cultivation of the passo¬ 
 lina. After the vintage, the grapes are immediately exposed to 
 the sun, for the purpose of drying, which process only requires 
 a fortnight. 
 
 Considering the many dangers which threaten the passolinas, 
 as long as they are exposed for drying, the Zantiotes, during 
 this time, are under the greatest apprehensions. One small 
 shower alone is sufficient to extend the time of drying, and 
 greatly injures the quality of the fruit. But if the rain conti¬ 
 nues, all precautions are unavailing: the grapes begin to rot, 
 they must be thrown away, without saving even a small 
 
and the Ionian Islands, 
 
 55 
 
 quantity for their cattle. When they have been successfully 
 dried, they are carried in bags to the seraglios , or warehouses, 
 where they are kept. The receipt of the keeper of the seraglio, 
 as to their quantity and quality, given to the owner, passes for 
 a circulating medium, which may be negociated. 
 
 Another and safer branch of the wealth of Zante is its oil. 
 Wherever there is no passolina, the olive is found. 
 
 In the year 1711, a hurricane tore up all the olive-trees. The 
 injury would have been immense; but the natives immediately 
 re-planted them, cut them off, and preserved them carefully at 
 the roots against the effects of the sun. Soon after, they had 
 the satisfaction of seeing the trees again thriving, and after a 
 few years they again bore fruit. 
 
 The olives grown in Zante are of two species. The natives, 
 called nostrani , which yield an inferior oil, and the dacoron , 
 so named from the place in the Morea from which they were 
 transplanted hither. The latter yield a better oil, although not 
 equal to that of the Morea, and they are the most productive. 
 The olives are not shaken but plucked off. 
 
 From the passolina they make also wine, which is oily, very 
 strong, and a fine stomachic cordial. It is not made from 
 the fresh grape, but after it has been dried for four or five days, 
 and partially protected from the sun. When the grapes are 
 crushed, one-third of water is added; nevertheless, the wine 
 is thick and of a dark colour; but, when in the cask, it becomes 
 finer. Besides this, Zante has two other kinds of wine, one of 
 which is made of the muscadel grapes. Both are excellent, but 
 the latter, when old, equals the best Sicilian wine in strength 
 and taste. 
 
 The common red and white wines are also sweet, but the 
 ground, impregnated with sulphur, salt, and lime, which pro¬ 
 duces them, imparts to them a heady quality, which the owners 
 are in the habit of increasing by artificial admixtures, the Zan- 
 tiotes being very fond of strong wines. 
 
 The wine grown here amounts to about eight thousand casks 
 annually, and is sufficicient for all home-consumption, and for 
 shipping. 
 
 The island being without forests, all the wood for firing, 
 building, and domestic utensils, is imported from the Morea 
 and Albania; and the poor burn the olive-stones. 
 
 I found but few myrtles and laurels in my rambles, but now 
 and then pomegranate-trees, which are still more frequent in 
 the neighbouring Morea. Horticulture and agriculture are little 
 known in Zante. In the harvest-time between four and five 
 thousand Zantiotes go over into the Morea, to assist the inha- 
 
24 Journey through Greece 
 
 bitants in their harvest. They are paid in corn, and thus they 
 bring home a supply of grain for four or five months. 
 
 Almost all the cattle for killing come from the Morea, espe¬ 
 cially the sheep, which there, as well as on the islands, are still 
 in the true Homerian style, roasted whole on the spit. Their 
 hard salt cheese is also imported from the same country. A few 
 only are kept on the Zantian rocks and mountains. 
 
 A strange, and, on coming from Sicily, a striking circum¬ 
 stance is the multitude of carriage-roads which cross this island 
 in almost all directions, with a total want of vehicles. The 
 country-people employ asses, mules, and horses for the carriage 
 of their goods. How much time, strength, and expense would 
 they save, if they used small waggons. 
 
 It is said that musquitos are very troublesome here, and that 
 there are poisonous worms and insects; but I have not noticed 
 any thing of this, although I always slept with open win¬ 
 dows in a dilapidated and deserted house, where there could 
 certainly be no deficiency of insects, worms, spiders, and lizards. 
 
 The chace is only known here by name. Even birds are 
 scarce on this volcanic island. On this account the sports¬ 
 men of Zante, at the beginning of spring, take an annual trip to 
 the Morea. There they beat through the Elysian fields and 
 forests, and either bring the produce of their chace home to their 
 families, or make it an object of trade. 
 
 There is scarcely any fishing on the coasts. Fish must be 
 caught on the coast of Morea; a circumstance which, in Zante, 
 makes this article scarce and very expensive. 
 
 In the south of the island, near the village Agala, which lies 
 in the midst of hills and rocks, the inhabitants carry on a strange 
 kind of fishery, which might rather be called a chace. Agla 
 lies three leagues from the sea. Thither a path leads over the 
 horrible cliffs and precipices. From my infancy I have been 
 accustomed to similar countries, and have acquired some skill in 
 passing such roads; but I never saw this equalled, and I 
 scarcely ventured one hundred and sixty steps upon this path, 
 which I should have considered as being inaccessible to man, 
 had I not seen a man and a boy coming from Agala to Chieri, 
 who, moreover, were both loaded. Upon this frightful path 
 they walk with ease and security, to try a still more dangerous 
 experiment for a trivial profit. 
 
 Having arrived upon the cliffs over the sea, which breaks 
 itself furiously against them, they fix a thick rope to one of the 
 rocks. By this rope they let themselves down into the sea, 
 where the surf is the least violent. Along the shore are several 
 caverns, in which the seal, which they pursue, keep themselves 
 
and the Ionian Islands. 
 
 23 
 
 concealed. The hunter is armed with a pistol. In order to 
 arrive at the entrance of the caverns/ he must wade through the 
 water up to his neck. In his right-hand he holds the pistol 
 above his head, and in his left the rope. The hunter must 
 hit the animal in the head, that being the only part where it can 
 be mortally wounded. Every other wound is but slight, and 
 will not prevent the seal from rushing into the sea and escaping. 
 If the animal is killed, the hunter flays it in the cave, since 
 he only takes its skin and fat. Of the former he makes his shoes, 
 and the latter he burns in his lamp. This sport takes place in 
 spring. I have not witnessed it myself, but I received the ac¬ 
 count from persons well-informed on the subject. 
 
 LETTER VII. 
 
 Zante , August. 
 
 Owing to the shortness of my stay, my excursions into the 
 interior were confined to the Monte Scopo, the naphtha-springs, 
 to Chieri, and Agala, returning the western side of the island 
 through Nata; J, however, saw every thing on this road. 
 
 I must acknowledge I was every where well received with my 
 guide, which was very acceptable in the heat of the day. It is 
 true, I found, in the poor mountain-cottages, but few comforts; 
 however, I met with good-will, a quality not to be attributed 
 to the Zantiotes exclusively, but to their neighbours the Cepha- 
 loniots. 
 
 I should, certainly, not like to remain at night alone and un¬ 
 armed among these people, who, under the abominable Venetian 
 government, carried on the trade of murder and pillage to a great 
 extent, and partly carry it on still; yet, in the day-time, and 
 with that confidence which will always keep such vile rabble in 
 awe, we ventured among them. Respecting the insecurity of 
 the island, on account of the numerous banditti, the English 
 have done much good. In their peculiar manner they exercise a 
 very speedy and severe justice, which has already shewn its good 
 effects. In the time of the Venetian dominion, the impunity of 
 murder was almost publicly acknowledged. For a slight sum 
 a wretch was permitted to assassinate whoever he pleased. 
 Every day some murder was committed in the town or in the 
 country. It was considered as a common event. Crowds col¬ 
 lected round the victim, not to assist, but to behold his agonies, 
 which, to the Zantiotes, formed a pleasing sight. The assassin was 
 often among the spectators. Nay, he was even daring enough 
 to laugh at the tears and lamentations of the wife and children 
 over the murdered corpse, while he still held the bloody steel in 
 Voyages and Travels, Vol. VIII. £ 
 
§6 Journey through Greece 
 
 his hand. This was not surprising in a place where almost 
 every respectable family had such bravi in their pay, and where 
 they, in some measure, belonged to the household. The mur¬ 
 derers were some time at Smyrna, where they carried on the same 
 trade; they afterwards returned to Zante, where the past had, in 
 the mean time, been absorbed by more recent events. 
 
 In my wanderings in the interior I sought the beauties which 
 could induce Strabo, Pliny, and Herodotus to speak so 
 highly of this island, and Homer and Virgil to confer on it 
 flattering epithets. These high panegyrics I did not find 
 confirmed. It is true, I saw many delightful spots in the plain, 
 which comprises two-thirds of the island, on the declivities of 
 the hills, and among the steep mountains themselves; I found 
 many a smiling hill—but where is the like not to be found ? I 
 inhaled, particularly in the evening, the fragrance of a thousand 
 blossoms and aromatic herbs; but is this not every where the 
 same in the south of Italy, and in Sicily? Besides, there is a 
 privation which will always strip the interior of Zante of the 
 greatest charm, the want of springs and a river. There is, in¬ 
 deed, a torrent on the east-side of the island, but it only con¬ 
 tains water during the rains in autumn and winter. Even in 
 those periods it is but small, on which account it is named 
 Fiumaxa . 
 
 To this may be added, the axia caltiva about Litakia, Sako- 
 chioado, Ambello, Chieri, and even here and there in the vici¬ 
 nity of the town of Zante. One thing, however, is peculiarly 
 beautiful and charming in Zante; and this is its Monte Scopo , 
 called Elatos the Noble. 
 
 This epithet could not have been given to the mountain for its 
 height, for which it is rather inconsiderable, as the Monte Nero, 
 in the neighbouring island of Cephalonia, looks proudly down 
 upon it. But the destination of Monte Scapo was noble, for its 
 summit bore the famous temple of the mild Artemis or Diana. 
 No traces of this temple are now to be seen; in the village 
 of Melinado, in a church dedicated to St. Dimitri, a stone is 
 placed near the altar, the inscription of which commemorates 
 the consecration of a virgin to the service of Diana, by her 
 parents. The portico of the same church is supported by four 
 marble columns, of one foot in diameter, which may have formed 
 a part of that temple. On its scite now stands the convent of 
 the Madonna di Scopo, which is rather an extensive structure, 
 although it only contains an abbot, a preacher, and two monks 
 of the order of St. Basil. The convent is rich, and splen¬ 
 didly fitted up within. The office of the abbot is always vested 
 in a clergyman of an old noble family. The present abbot, too. 
 is anancient noble. The convent, although situated on'the 
 
and the Ionian Islands. 
 
 ,27 
 
 summit of the mountain, is built in a dell, which protects it 
 from the violent winds. Close by it is a small wood and rock, 
 where the air must be very cold in autumn and in winter, but 
 which presents the most beautiful prospects. Many pilgrimages 
 are undertaken to this convent, either for heaven or the earth, 
 for it also serves the inhabitants of Zante as a resort for amuse¬ 
 ment, and oftentimes their joy is displayed in very loud and, 
 sometimes, even indecorous expressions. 
 
 Both the abbot and his monks are distinguished for their kind¬ 
 ness to strangers; a monk and the young sculptor to whom study 
 has been assigned in the convent, conducted me to the above- 
 mentioned rock, from which they pointed out to me the whole 
 island of Zante, together with the beauties of the neighbouring 
 Peloponnesus in the golden light of the evening sun. There I 
 saw to the left Cephalonia, Leukas, and Ithaca, with the moun¬ 
 tains ofAcarnania, and adjoining the Capo Tornese on the site 
 of the ancient Kyllone; more to the right, in the interior of the 
 country, the Erymanthus; straight before me, the well-known 
 Elis, with Olympia and the faithful Alpheus. I even thought 
 I could distinguish the low mountain of Saturn. More to the 
 south begin the Triphylian hills. Behind them I discerned 
 Ithome and the Spartan Taggetus; in clear days, even the 
 Strophadian islands are seen.—Evening was now approaching; 
 dark blue shades descended upon the Doric hills; the Pelopon¬ 
 nesus gradually vanished from my sight. 
 
 The courteous abbot would not allow me to return to town, 
 although the distance is only one league and a half; he pleaded 
 the danger of the road in the evening. At break of day next 
 morning, I left the hospitable convent and its philanthropic 
 inhabitants. 
 
 LETTER VIII. 
 
 Zante , August. 
 
 Zante, on the eastern side of the island, lies on the declivity 
 of several mountains, one of which presents a steep, naked, and 
 shattered appearance; upon this is built the fort, which commands 
 the city. The others, however, more resemble a chain of green 
 hills, which form the fore-ground to Monte Scopo, rising 
 behind them in beautiful waving slopes towards the south. The 
 Finmara, when it has any water, enters almost in the centre of 
 the bay from the plain. With the exception of Monte Scopo, and 
 the green hills at its foot, all the mountains look bare and bleak. 
 
 The city itself surprised me much by the German appearance 
 of its architecture, which is peculiarly striking on approaching 
 from the south of Italy. Everything reminded me of my native 
 
 E 2 
 
£8 Journey through Greece 
 
 country. The houses were neat and clean, and principally one 
 or two stories high, with pointed roofs. The roofs, windows, 
 and the painting or colouring of the houses, seems to be bor¬ 
 rowed from our country. The reason for building the houses 
 so low is the frequency of earthquakes. 
 
 On entering into the city, its German character is lost amid 
 many peculiarities. Zante has no distinguished buildings; for 
 what is termed the Bishop’s palace, certainly does not deserve 
 the name; nor do the churches or the houses built by the 
 English, after the last earthquake, for their resident governor, 
 the collector of the customs, the government-house, &c. 
 
 Almost every street and square shows traces of this earth¬ 
 quake; but they gradually disappear, giving place to new struc¬ 
 tures. 
 
 The principal square of Zante is that of St. Mark, so called 
 after that of Venice : but with this it bears no similarity, except 
 in the name. Its irregularity, a sort of distorted triangle sur¬ 
 rounded by a wretched low arcade, which was partly destroyed 
 by the earthquake, only leads to unfavourable comparisons. 
 Under these arcades are some insignificant jewellers’ shops, 
 whose heavy and clumsy articles shew the degree of taste pos¬ 
 sessed by the inhabitants in this respect. The principal coffee¬ 
 house is also under these arcades, and is certainly the largest in 
 the city. It is frequented by the lawyers, physicians, and mer¬ 
 chants; and here I have heard many a sensible and striking 
 opinion on the affairs of the Greeks. In the square adjoining 
 the principal guard of the English soldiers is stationed, under a 
 cover of vine-leaves, which shelters them from the sun. Near 
 this is the Latin or Roman Catholic cathedral of St. Mark, 
 which is rather small, and distinguished by no work of art nor 
 any particular splendour. An attempt was made to impose 
 upon me in showing me a picture of our Saviour as by the old 
 Palma, and a St. Francis and Elijah by Titian, but the decep¬ 
 tion was too gross to pass. 
 
 Near St. Mark’s, by the side of a small Greek church, is the 
 well-known monument of the British governor of the Ionian 
 islands, General Sir Thomas Maitland. It is a large, high pe¬ 
 destal. on which is placed a bronze bust of Sir Thomas; under¬ 
 neath is a small basso relievo of bronze, shewing Minerva em¬ 
 bracing Virtue with her right arm, but throwing a veil over Vice 
 in a crouching attitude;—an English symbol of the political 
 events in Zante. Both the bust and basso relievo are well ex¬ 
 ecuted. Below the latter is the following inscription: 
 
 ©ftMAI TCI M AIT A AN AlftI 
 ZAKTN0IOI 
 
 AIA TAX XPH2TAL EAITIAAS > 
 
 AfilZ. 
 
and the Ionian Islands. 29 
 
 u To Thomas Maitland, the Zakynthians, on account of their 
 good hopes, 1817.” 
 
 The whole is surrounded by stone posts and bronze chains, 
 and deserves great commendation for its noble simplicity. 
 
 Adjoining St. Mark’s is the market for the sale of provisions, 
 called Piazza dell’ Erbe; it is merely a narrow, dirty lane, 
 where the country people expose their vegetables, fruit, eggs, 
 cheese, &c. for sale. Here are also shops for the sale of salt- 
 fish, with peaches, and rusty bacon, all mixed together. In this 
 narrow, dirty lane, is the Caffe de’ Nobili; whe^e, formerly, 
 nobles only were admitted. Now they have become more liberal, 
 and people fond of market-cries, dirt, and peculiar smells, may 
 go thither even without a pedigree. I could not forbear visiting 
 the spot a few times. Whoever may wish to hear conver¬ 
 sations on the short-sighted policy of Russia; on the elec¬ 
 tors of Germany, whose health is still drank by these kind 
 gentlemen; on the good qualities of the King of Naples; 
 on Napoleon’s arrival in England, &c. must go to this place. 
 I could not possibly make the gentlemen conceive, why the em¬ 
 peror Francis was now no longer called the second, but the first, 
 for the stock of their ideas has not yet reached so far as the 
 dissolution of the German empire. 
 
 This dirty market leads to the principal street of Zante, 
 which, in the Venetian style, is called Calle JLarga. Here are 
 the handsomest houses, clean, and one story high. The arcades 
 which support them run along both sides of the street, and there 
 are the shops and warehouses. The streets are badly paved, 
 which is peculiarly disagreeable, after the foot has been accus¬ 
 tomed to fine large paving slabs : the place of St. Mark itself is 
 paved in this style. The Calle extends to about an English 
 mile in length. 
 
 On the south side of the hills below the Monte Scopo, are the 
 buildings of the lazaretto, for those who are put under quaran¬ 
 tine. Thank God! I escaped this confinement. Here the masts 
 of the ships which were sunk last year in the harbour, are still 
 seen projecting above the surface. They went down with their 
 full cargoes, and nothing could be saved. 
 
 The interior of the houses is comfortable, and often elegant. 
 Among the English, and the well-informed Greeks, we meet 
 with every domestic comfort. But the difference among the 
 other Greeks is very great, and among them their favourite 
 Turkish fashions prevail. They even keep the windows of the 
 apartments of the ladies grated on the outside, by which means 
 they suppose them impenetrable to every stranger’s eye. A great, 
 and to me, in a southern climate, inconceiveable inconvenience, 
 i,s the hot floor of fir-deals, the receptacle of all sorts of vermin. 
 
30 
 
 Journey through Greece 
 
 If these slight floors are used on account of the earthquakes, 
 they ought, at least, not to have them on the plains. 
 
 Of the sanguinary disposition and depravity of the Zantiots 
 under the Venetian government, I have spoken in my last letter. 
 According to English report, the people in the city, as well as 
 in the rest of the island, still possess all the bad qualities which 
 formerly distinguished them; only that they are restrained by 
 strict justice and an ever-vigilant police. As I heard these 
 same Englishmen doing justice to the good qualities of the 
 neighbouring Cephalonians, I am inclined to think them correct 
 in their opinion with respect to the inferior classes of the people : 
 but that excellent individuals are found among the higher 
 classes, I know from experience. 
 
 Oriental habits are strongly indicated in the dress, which 
 is only a modified Turkish; in the turban, caftan, arms, pom¬ 
 pous walk, and motions; and, above all, in the internal customs 
 of the house. Here, too, women, married and unmarried, are 
 seldom seen, but in the gloom of the evening they are met in 
 swarms, who, whether dressed in black or white, are always 
 veiled, and move through the streets like the swans of the river 
 Kayster. It is remarkable that many of these companies are seen 
 without any male attendant. But notwithstanding all this retire¬ 
 ment, a depravity of morals is said to prevail among the Zantian 
 females, such as is not to be found in any other of the Ionian 
 islands. Judging by what I saw, few among the women or 
 girls may be called handsome. But even these few disfigure 
 their natural charms by their awkwardness of deportment and 
 dress. They are, at the same time, such as the eastern people 
 wish to see their wives,—uncultivated and illiterate in a strange 
 degree. 
 
 In Italy, ignorance and want of refinement are common 
 enough among females; yet they are occasionally counter¬ 
 balanced by great beauty or originality, which, at least for the 
 moment, surprise and please. Among the women of the east 
 nothing is original, except the wide contrast between their 
 mental and personal attractions. 
 
 The men of Zante, on the other hand, have many good qua¬ 
 lities ; and among these I reckon their politeness to strangers. I 
 have met with kindness from poor people, without being able to 
 make them accept any thing for it more than my best thanks. 
 This is very striking after coming from Italy. Of Italian man¬ 
 ners we find some vestiges in the immoderate gesticulations with 
 their heads and hands in speaking. This custom has existed 
 since the time of the Venetians. 
 
 But one thing not to be met with in Italy is the pretty and 
 modest manner of the beggars and beggars’ children. They 
 
and the Ionian Islands . 31 
 
 liave something so insinuating in their solicitations, that it is 
 difficult to refuse them. 
 
 I was told that they have here a very good establishment for 
 education, where, besides the Greek, Latin, and Italian gram¬ 
 mar, the literature of these languages, archaeology, &c. are said 
 to be taught. But I have not been able to visit it. Many wealthy 
 young Zantiots frequent the universities of Italy, Germany, 
 and f ranee : but not one of them has returned during the recent 
 events in Greece. 
 
 The Greeks here are strangely mixed. First, a great portion of 
 Moreats, then the Albanese, Epirots, Sulliots, Hydriots, Saliots, 
 all wearing their more or less beautiful original dresses. Ac¬ 
 cording to what I have been told by the English police, there 
 are now here above 7000 Moreats, who have fled hither with 
 their families and property. Among these are about 2500 men 
 and youths capable of bearing arms. I.have seen these people 
 scattered about the town and the country in crowds, otherwise 
 I should not have believed it.* 
 
 There are but few Latin or Roman Catholic Christians 
 living here. In spiritual matters they are under a bishop ; but 
 
 * The English government may be said to act inconsistently in supporting 
 those sturdy Greeks in Zante, where they have never an abundance of provi¬ 
 sions, which now, in consequence of the increased consumption, have become 
 much dearer. Yet, with the principles adopted by this government, this may 
 easily be understood, which, although it proclaimed its neutrality for both pai- 
 ties, nevertheless greatly assists the Turks, sending them corn and arms, and 
 even surgeons ; whilst it strictly, and under the severest penalties, prohibits 
 any supply being carried to the Greeks. What severe edicts it hurled against 
 the Zantiots serving among the Greeks; how violently it punished the cap¬ 
 tains Gianniessi and Dionysis Focca. The English government has dis¬ 
 covered many connections of the Zantiots with the Greek armies in the 
 Morea and Epirus, with Hydra and Spezia; it has discovered many a well- 
 concealed letter upon persons coming from the Morea and those islands; jet 
 it is very far from knowing the degree of participation of many inhabitants 
 of Zante. Many things it, perhaps, does not even suspect. There are com¬ 
 binations, unknown to the English, which may lead to very important.events, 
 if the Greeks in the Morea, and the Hellenists in general, be pros¬ 
 perous. It is nothing new that the English are disliked in Zante. Much 
 of this hatred w as produced by their position against the Greeks, with whom 
 the Zantiots still believe themselves united by fraternal ties. Imprudently, 
 the Zantiots have already come to threats, assuring loudly, that at the proper 
 season they shall find it easy to take the fort, and drive the English troops 
 from the island. Although there is in all this much of the modern Greek 
 bombast, no one can blame the English that they have been made doubly 
 strict, cautious, and more averse to the cause of the Hellenists. However, 
 the number of troops has not been increased yet. The garrison of the city and 
 fort consists of about two battalions of riflemen. But the fort itself is very 
 difficult of access, besides being well supplied with every requisite, and pre¬ 
 pared for any attack. Only one English armed brig lies on the roads outside 
 the harbour. 
 
3°2 Journey through Greece 
 
 the Greeks are under their protopapas. Both he and the bishop 
 are worthy men, and Jive on the most friendly terms with each 
 other. 
 
 I frequently assisted at the exercise of the troops, and could 
 not forbear admiring the precision with which they executed 
 their various manoeuvres. They were dressed in white, and 
 were very clean. I do not know whether this colour becomes the 
 rifleman, and is fit for the mountain-service. The Tyrolese sharp¬ 
 shooters certainly look more in character, and also take an infi¬ 
 nitely better aim. Their defect in aiming would be injurious to 
 the English troops, if hostilities were commenced with the inha¬ 
 bitants ; for the Zantiots, like the natives of all the Ionian islands, 
 are distinguished marksmen, and well know how to use their 
 rifles on their steep crags, surrounded by precipices; and an 
 English soldier could scarcely follow them through their glens 
 and over their rocks. What could be undertaken against such 
 mountaineers, if they w T ere possessed of courage ?—This is the 
 comfort and security of the English. 
 
 The fort lies on a high, bare rock, commanding the city. 
 Only one steep, narrow path leads up to it, and wdiich is gene¬ 
 rally ascended on mules or horseback. Before the fortress lies the 
 village of Bukoli, the inhabitants of which were notorious under 
 the Venetian government for their vindictive and sanguinary 
 spirit. The summit is reached over three draw-bridges, and the 
 prospect from it, over the whole island and the Peloponnesus, is 
 delightful. The fort lies on a chalk rock which, they say, daily 
 decreases in height. Upon this the Zantiots build their hope, 
 that the fort will one day be demolished by an earthquake or by 
 water; an event which would certainly be very convenient for 
 them. On this height excellent water and the purest air are 
 found, which induces many rich people to live there. Other 
 districts about the city may also be called agreeable, for instance, 
 Krissopleti, the point near Strani, and the hill of Akratici. With 
 this I bid farewell to Zante : to-morrow I sail for Cephalonia. 
 
 LETTER IX. 
 
 Cephalonia, August. 
 
 I purpose i .y embarked in one of the boats, of which the 
 masters have little trading concerns in all the Ionian islands; 
 which induce them to stop for a few days in each. There was 
 no one in the boat besides myself and five spirited Korfiots, who 
 plied their oars merrily as often as a calm came on. 
 
 Before leaving the harbour in the evening I enjoyed a very 
 
and the Ionian Islands . 33 
 
 interesting sight. Some vessels, with Moreat families, had arrived 
 at the custom-house from the quarantine hospital, who, having 
 fled hither some time back, had now r finished their seclusion, and 
 received their discharge. They seemed to be wealthy people, 
 perhaps persons of rank, as I concluded from the quantity and 
 richness of furniture, carpets, plate, &c. which they brought with 
 them. Among them was a handsome lady, with an infant: 
 her features only expressed the delight and pleasure which 
 she felt in the child, who was smiling to her while he played 
 with the ends of her turban and her veil. Absorbed in maternal 
 solicitude, she took no notice of the bustle among her people, 
 who were carrying away the earthly treasures she had saved. 
 
 At sunset we started from the new Molo and left the harbour; 
 but the wind being contrary, and the sailors wishing to rest till 
 midnight, to gather strength for rowing, we cast anchor in a bay 
 near Cape Shinari. 
 
 About midnight a boat, with singing females, approached us. 
 Their airs were new, without being agreeable; for the national 
 songs of the present day have, in general, something barbarous 
 in them, which is grating to our ears. They sing much through 
 the nose, and their songs are unsufferably monotonous. To¬ 
 wards one o’clock in the morning we rowed off. The adverse 
 northerly wind allowed us to make little way, and the current 
 in the channel of Cephalonia was also against us. During 
 the heat of the middle of the day, we were again obliged to rest. 
 The following morning at last brought us near the small rocky 
 island, which is justly called Guardini for the navigator; and a 
 favourable S. E. wind carried us into the harbour of Argostoli, 
 
 Argostoli lies on a small bog towards the east, which is a 
 branch of the northern one, at the foot of a range of hills, behind 
 which the high mountains belonging to the Monte Nero raise 
 their heads. These hills are pretty well cultivated, which makes 
 them an ornament of the town, which has no other. On one of 
 them are windmills and a small village, and not far from it are 
 marshes with a very noxious air. 
 
 There are not so many traces of the earthquakes under 
 which this island suffered, coeval with Zante, as in the other 
 island. The sanitary buildings and the house of the British re¬ 
 sident are the best which the small town of Argostoli possesses. 
 They have also a square of St. Mark here, which was formed 
 from the space gained by the removal of a number of houses 
 which were destroyed by earthquakes. As these earthquakes 
 allow of no cellars, the inhabitants make use of the ground- 
 floor to keep their wine, oil, and other stores; on which account 
 the entrance to many houses is in the first floor, which is as¬ 
 cended by a flight of steps at the outside. 
 
 Yoyages ^Travels, Vol. VIII, F 
 
34 Journey through Greece 
 
 The English have completed many new and useful works here. 
 One of their best is the Ponte Novo, a beautiful bridge built 
 of stones similar to marble, over the neighbouring marshes. In 
 the centre of it stands a pyramid, with an inscription. 
 
 The British resident, Colonel Travers, is very obliging to 
 strangers. 
 
 Argostoli having no distinguished edifice, the stranger is the 
 more surprised at the internal arrangement of the private houses 
 belonging to wealthy merchants or to native noblemen. There 
 every thing is in the European style. The luxuries of the west 
 have entirely supplanted the customs of the Levant, which is 
 not the case in the neighbouring island of Zante. Here we 
 met with looking-glasses, carpets, lustres, elegantly bound 
 libraries of books, with the old French and Italian classics, &c. 
 
 The amiable accomplishments of the inhabitants of this small 
 town is in perfect unison with this external splendour; and the 
 female sex is not excluded from it. I have made acquaint¬ 
 ance with several married and unmarried ladies, who spoke very 
 good French and very excellent Italian. To this many now 
 add the English, and almost all the ancient, or what they call 
 the literary Greek. I found many young merchants occupied 
 in their leisure hours with astronomy and the study of ancient 
 coins. Almost all the young gentlemen are educated abroad, 
 in Germany, France, or Italy; so that none of the Ionians are 
 so well informed as the Cephalonians. 
 
 With these literary attainments, the inhabitants of Argostoli 
 unite the most cordial hospitality I ever saw. I only brought 
 three letters with me from Zante. These would have been suf¬ 
 ficient to procure me for months a kind reception, elegant lodg¬ 
 ings and board, together with the most obliging kindness of 
 treatment, in two good families, who were almost offended when 
 I told them that my stay in Argostoli would only be for two 
 days. They supplied me, however, with many letters to their 
 friends and acquaintances in the interior of the island and the 
 neighbouring isles. 
 
 Argostoli displays much wealth and mercantile spirit. The 
 principal objects of their trade are currants, oils, wine, cotton, 
 silk, fowls, &c. It is an interesting sight to see the wharf of 
 Argostoli. The bustle here is very great, Argostoli having 
 always the largest shipping among the cities of the Ionian 
 islands. 
 
 Several of the Greek churches have no belfries, but their small 
 bells are hung up between two cypress-trees, which, according 
 to Greek custom, stand close by the church. 
 
 Here, too, I met with several Greeks who had fled, not only 
 from northern Morea, but likewise from Epirus, Rumeli, the 
 
and the Ionian Islands . 35- 
 
 ancient Acarnania, iEtolia, Lakris, and Bceotia. Thousands 
 of them were said to be in the interior of the island, the small 
 town not being sufficient to contain and provide for them. 
 
 I have obtained the acquaintance of many well-informed 
 Greeks here, and from what I heard, my former opinions re¬ 
 specting the Moreat Greeks, and the Hellenist insurrection in 
 general, were confirmed. Nay, on many subjects I was better 
 informed, about which I could obtain no clear information 
 even in the Morea, at Kalamata, and in Zante, and therefore 
 left them unnoticed in my former letters, as it concerned matters 
 injurious to the Greeks and the spirit by which they are led. 
 
 I formerly only faintly alluded to the want of harmony 
 among themselves: I ought to have called it, separation and 
 schism.—It began shortly after the breaking out of the insur¬ 
 rection, but became mischievous enmity, when, in June of this 
 year, Prince Demetrius Ypsilanti appeared in the Morea, 
 in the quality of delegate of his brother Alexander, then com¬ 
 manding on the Danube, and who was subsequently betrayed 
 by the Greeks. 
 
 Demetrius appeared in Kalamata without any pecuniary 
 means, surrounded by a kind of court formed of foreigners, de¬ 
 manding that the chief command of the war in the Morea should 
 be given to him ; and the metropolitans, bishops, and other chiefs 
 who then held commands, should be placed under his authority. 
 The temporary senate of Morea had no objection to this request; 
 as they wished for the good of their country, and felt the ne¬ 
 cessity of having one leader to direct the whole; Demetrius, as the 
 brother of Alexander, certainly could aspire to the gratitude 
 and confidence of his countrymen : but the principal motive of 
 the senate in their resolution was, by means of Ypsilanti to 
 humble the arrogance of the clergy, who opposed them in every 
 liberal wish and work; or, at least, to diminish their influence 
 with the people. 
 
 But now the Lernsean hydra, which has destroyed so many 
 fair and great enterprizes, priestly ambition and priestly pride, 
 began to raise its head at Patras. 
 
 Before all, the metropolitan of this city, who at the beginning 
 of the insurrection had been very active, but afterwards rather 
 drew back, demanded the staff of the dictator and general-in¬ 
 chief of the army. Similar pretensions, although in a more 
 moderate manner, were made by Londogia, primate of Patras, 
 the metropolitan of Kalamata, and the false Papa Diomondo- 
 pulo. Behind them Andrea Loudo, the Bey of Maina, that of 
 Kalamata, the brave Koloktroni, who has more merit than any 
 of these, Gerakaris, Brosso, Pelimsa Sebastopalo, Ma ironi, with 
 
 F 2 
 
B6 Journey through Greece 
 
 many others, called out for commands, urging their early sei^ 
 vices, imaginary or real. 
 
 Demetrius Ypsilanti, however, who knew the Greeks, did not 
 allow himself to be embarrassed by their noise; judging that 
 he should gain his object sooner if he could strike at once a 
 great blow; by which he should gain the public confidence. 
 He also succeeded in immediately gaining over to his plan some 
 of those non-clerical chiefs, who, at least, wished to see some¬ 
 thing done, and therefore deferred their ambitious views to an¬ 
 other moment. Thus he marched with an army collected at 
 random, and in which he introduced some order and discipline, 
 against the principal fortress of the country, Tripolizza; hoping 
 to take it by a coup-de-main. This army, I was told at Kala- 
 mata, amounted to at least twenty thousand men. The Moreats 
 in Cephalonia, however, some of whom had seen it, assured me 
 that there were not four thousand men in it. So difficult is it, 
 even in the country itself, to get at the real state of the affairs! 
 
 But the starving Turks in Tripolizza offered a brave resist¬ 
 ance; and, in the beginning of August, the fortress had not yet 
 fallen. In the mean time many, who had calculated on a rapid, 
 splendid, and lucrative success of the enterprize against the for¬ 
 tress, had left Ypsilanti, and either gone home or to the islands. 
 
 Demetrius now addressed himself to the powerful Hydriots, 
 who are said to have acknowledged him as archistrategos, or 
 general-in-chief. But the acknowledgment of Hydrais, not that 
 of the continent, had no effect in the Morea, where it even 
 proved injurious to the prince. 
 
 The hostility of the clergy, who had now become more power¬ 
 ful, against the prince, reduced his little army still more, and 
 compelled him to renounce, for the present, the siege of Tripo¬ 
 lizza, and withdraw with the troops who had remained with 
 him to Leondari. 
 
 At that period suddenly a new light appeared in the Morea, 
 from which, at first, great expectations were formed. It was 
 Maurokordato, who had arrived in the peninsula from a French 
 harbour, in company of some French officers. However, as long 
 as I remained in Greece*, it was not known that he had made 
 any military achievement. 
 
 Morea is now divided into two parties, which again have their 
 subdivisions, not, however, decidedly marked. The league of the 
 clergy, with the metropolitan of Patras at their head, and that 
 of Prince D. Ypsilanti. Here, again, the chiefs under him 
 become discontented, by which they frustrate Ypsilanti’s enter¬ 
 prises and confidence ; as he is well acquainted with their views. 
 
 These parties not only refuse each other support, but they 
 actually counteract themselves; and nothing more is wanted to 
 
37 
 
 and the Ionian Islands. 
 
 complete their wretchedness, but one of them joining the cruel 
 Turks against their brethren. However, this is not to be ap¬ 
 prehended. 
 
 Every one knows the great influence of the clergy over the 
 ignorant mass of the Greek people; and, whoever has observed 
 them closely, will agree with me that these people are more 
 faithfully and firmly attached to their clergy, and the whole 
 hierarchical Babel, than to their glorious cause. 
 
 It is owing to this unfortunate discord that the Turks are 
 enabled to retain the wretched fortresses which still are in their 
 hands; for, considering their want of provisions, ammunition, 
 their deficiency of knowledge in artillery and fortification, all 
 the fortresses would have been reduced, long ago, if the Greeks 
 within them, whose numbers are as five to one against the 
 Turks, had done their duty. But they, also, are divided, and 
 only calculate on assistance without the walls. 
 
 Misguided by the information I received in Kalamata, I gave, 
 in my former letters on the Greek affairs, a false statement of 
 the fortresses taken by the Greeks, and those still in the hands 
 of the Turks. 
 
 If the information of those intelligent Moreats in Argostoli 
 be correct, (and it tallies with all creditable accounts received 
 from the Morea) I gave the Greeks more than they hitherto had 
 the courage to take. I then stated that they had taken the small 
 forts of Navarino (Neo-Kastro), Monabasia, Corinth, and Kala¬ 
 mata. This is only true as regard Kalamata, of Monabasia 
 uncertain, and of IS avarino and Corinth false. For the latter 
 are still bravely defended by the Turks. 
 
 A proof how ill-informed the French newspapers are, is that 
 they consider the small fort of Monabasia as being identically 
 the same as the powerful Nauplia, or Napoli di Romania. Mo¬ 
 nabasia, the ancient Laconian Epidaurus, lies about twenty 
 minutes N. from Cape Malea, and is also called Malvasia, and 
 in Turkish Mengeshe. But Nauplia lies above one degree of 
 latitude farther to the N. and is the principal fortress of the 
 Morea. This error, which is shewn in every map, has been faith¬ 
 fully copied by other journals. 
 
 The success of the Greek arms in the Morea is, therefore, still 
 less sure than I thought at that period; for Corinth is of 
 great importance, in a military point of view, and Navarino has 
 a garrison of 4000 men. If the Turks should advance over the 
 isthmus, to relieve their fortresses in the Morea, they would find 
 Corinth an excellent place of support. 
 
 * They have since been taken, together with Tripolizza and several 
 others.—T rans. 
 
38 
 
 Journey through Greece 
 
 Thus, all the important fortresses in the Morea, Patras, 
 Corinth, Napoli di Romania, Tripolizz', Coron, Modon, and 
 Arcadia, are yet in the hands of the Turks, and those taken by 
 the Greeks are reduced to a few small forts, such as Pyrgo, 
 Vostitza, Kalamata, Kalavrita, Gastuni, Dimitzana, &c.; per¬ 
 haps, also, the insignificant fort of Monab&sia, which they had 
 besieged in vain as early as the 5th of April. 
 
 A ruinous disunion is said to prevail now between the two 
 islands of Hydra and Spezia, and the other important Sporeatos, 
 such as Mykoni, who refuse submitting to their authority. I was 
 assured that it had been seriously debated whether they should 
 not withdraw and return home. The Greeks of Smyrna, and 
 of the whole of Ionia, who believe that they have been sacrificed 
 by their European brethren, are said to have greatly urged 
 the execution of these plans. It would be terrible, if thus the 
 superiority of the Greeks by sea should also be broken. 
 
 During the course of our conversation, I could not forbear 
 hinting, with some warmth, to those gentlemen, the injury to their 
 country by their unpatriotic flight. All of them agreed that 
 appearances were against them, but assured me, that scarcely 
 the sixth part of those which have actually fled, would have 
 abandoned their country in this moment of danger, if those un¬ 
 happy differences and discord, combined with the horrors and 
 abominations practised by some of their own countrymen, had 
 not deprived them of all hopes of a favourable issue; and, as it 
 were, compelled them to retire. I then told them what had 
 been done in Russia, in the year 1813; what glorious sacrifices 
 were made, in 1813 and 1814, in Germany; and what kind of 
 spirit had been displayed by our countrywomen in those days of 
 danger and contest. They seemed to listen with emotion, but 
 they said, u Yes, but that was a national war.” 
 
 LETTER X. 
 
 Bay Viscardo , Cepludonia , Avgust. 
 
 An abbate, who took much interest in the antiquities of Ce- 
 phalonia, offered to accompany me on my rambles through the 
 island; a proposal which I gratefully accepted. We began by 
 examining the antique ruins of a subterraneous passage, situated 
 near the new fortress. They are evidently of the latter times 
 of the Romans, and by no means remarkable. We then went 
 to examine the walls of Cyclopian architecture on the declivity 
 of the hills above Argostoli, which are supposed to have be¬ 
 longed to the ancient Kranii. They at least prove the high 
 antiquity of the city which they once surrounded. Ruins of 
 
39 
 
 and the Ionian Islands. 
 
 detached buildings are no more to be found. In vain, too, the 
 traveller looks for those large ruins, farther down towards the 
 town, of edifices which, in ancient times, may have served for 
 naval store-houses or wharfs: all have vanished during the 
 earthquakes. 
 
 A boat took us to Lixuri, which is now the second town in 
 Cephalonia. It lies directly opposite Argostoli, on the west- 
 side of the bay. The natural position of the town is very favour¬ 
 able to trade, and it has not that noxious marsh-air which ren¬ 
 ders Argostoli so unhealthy. But it has suffered more than the 
 latter town from earthquakes. Lixuri has also some shipping; 
 but the inhabitants have a very poor appearance. Here stood, 
 probably, a city in the time of the Romans, the name of which 
 has been lost to us. Forty years ago, in cleaning a well, some 
 remains of antiquity were found here. First, a marble vase, the 
 foot of which had been injured. It bore a Roman inscription, 
 recording the death of a young man who had been a friend of 
 Mark Anthony. The second discovery was more important. 
 It was a female head, belonging to a statue which was assigned 
 to the most flourishing ages of Grecian art. The abbate shewed 
 me a sketch of it, which forcibly called to my memory a very 
 similar one found last year in Capua, and, if I mistake not, it 
 received a place in the collection of the Crown-Prince of Den¬ 
 mark. From the same well were also drawn several coins and 
 bronze tablets with illegible Greek inscriptions. The whole of 
 the discoveries were taken to Venice. 
 
 About one league from Lixuri, we found the ruins generally 
 believed to be those of the ancient Palis or Palle. The sur¬ 
 rounding district is still called Palichi, and the ruins Paleo- 
 Kastro, or the old castle, a name very frequently met with 
 throughout Greece. What may have been here twenty years 
 ago is no longer to be seen: earthquakes and time have left 
 nothing of any interest, not even the Cyclopian walls, such as 
 those we saw near Kranii. Here, about fifty years ago, a Greek 
 inscription on Parian marble was dug up, of which I have already 
 spoken, and which proves the republican constitution of Palle. 
 The people and senate decreed to the high-priestess, Flaviana 
 Eutyches, daughter of Pithodoros Glaukos, and the wife of 
 Bion Aristomantides, the honour of a statue, which she deserved 
 by her virtuous life and manners. 
 
 <DAABIANA EYTYXHN III©OAfiPOY 
 TAAYKOY TYNAIKA BK2NOE 
 APIETOMANTIAOE APXIEPAS 
 AMHNHNTHE EEBAETHE 
 H BOYAH KAI O AHMOE TIAAElfiN 
 EYTENEAE EINEKEN KAI THE 
 ITEPI TON BION EO$POEYNHS 
 TH^IEMATH BOYAHE. 
 
40 
 
 Journey through Greece 
 
 This interesting inscription was likewise carried to Venice. 
 Since that time no searches have been made either in this place 
 or at Lixuri; nor is any thing now doing in that way. We re¬ 
 turned with our boat to Argostoli, from whence we rode to 
 Kasamaita on asses. 
 
 Here we were received with kind hospitality at the country- 
 seat of a friend. The elegance, comfort, and arrangement of the 
 interior of this seat, recalled to my recollections the country- 
 seats of France and Germany; but the kindness of the owner 
 and his family I have not found equalled any where. Here, in 
 this spot, apparently sequestered from the busy world, we found, 
 upon a small table, Byron’s works, De Pradt’s Colonies, and 
 a line edition of Dante. 
 
 As I was assured by the abbate that nothing could be found 
 on the Monte Nero of the ancient Cephalonia and the temple of 
 Jupiter Enius, we crossed the steep mountain towards Same, 
 “which we reached in three hours, under a burning sun. The whole 
 road lay over barren hills, where only here and there a few 
 green myrtle or olive-trees are seen. On the summit we found an 
 enchanting prospect over the island and the neighbouring isles, 
 Zante, Thiaki, Paxu, Zanta Maura, and in the back-ground 
 Corfu. Our unobstructed sight now carried us even to the 
 Echenadian islands, and to the continent of AEtolia and Acar- 
 nania. An hour before arriving at Same, we entered a smiling 
 and very fertile plain. Large trees, seldom met with in the 
 Ionian islands, are seen here, and a view upon the isle of Ithaca 
 contributes to the beauty of the whole. Ithaca is much more 
 picturesque on its southern than on its western side, towards 
 the channel Viscardo. 
 
 Same lies on a hill, and its declivity towards the east is in fact 
 upon a small peninsula projecting into the sea. Its former glory, 
 and its glorious struggle under Roman tyranny are universally 
 known. All the traces of this city the Romans could however 
 not destroy. Its former circumference, particularly on the de¬ 
 clivity of the hill, is still pointed out by walls, which are partly 
 of Cyclopian architecture, and partly constructed with enormous 
 pieces of granite, regularly cut, without any cement or brases, 
 to resist the ravages of both earthquakes and time. On one 
 side of the hills near the Cyclopian wall stood the Acropolis. 
 Farther down towards the shore, where the air is very unhealthy, 
 we saw the ancient tombs, which are not formed like the 
 Roman columbarise, nor like the Greek tombs at Pestum and 
 Nola, but consist of recesses cut in the rock for the reception 
 of the dead, in which they resemble the catacombs of Naples. 
 
 Fifty years ago remains of antiquity were found here, which 
 shewed the high degree of perfection to which the arts had 
 arrived in Same; particularly vases of bronze, marble, and burn 
 
and the Ionian Islands. 
 
 41 
 
 clay ; all which were sent to Venice. It is affirmed that many 
 of these vases still emitted a strong scent when they were dug 
 out from the ground. The Egyptians, as well as the nations of 
 Palestine, embalmed their dead. The Greeks, who were fond 
 of imitating all Egyptian practices, nevertheless could not adopt 
 the embalming, as they would have had a very high price to 
 pay for the spices to the Phoenicians. They, therefore, had 
 recourse to the expedient of placing in the urns of their dead 
 small phials of perfumes. The other vases found here resem¬ 
 bled those of Crete, which, according to Pliny, w T 6re much in 
 request among the Greeks. 
 
 Since the arrival of the English many objects of antiquity 
 have been found in the tombs. Unfortunately, however, they 
 w r ere of silver, gold, or bronze, such as idols, cups, bracelets, 
 necklaces, rings, small vases, &c. I say, unfortunately, because 
 owing to their mercantile value, they have been lost to the 
 world. I do not say it inconsiderately, but what I advance has 
 been unanimously corroborated by respectable Englishmen and 
 Cephalonians. These objects were scattered among the English 
 civil and military officers in the Ionian islands, and were for the 
 most part melted down for the purpose of forming into the shapes 
 of tea-pots, spoons, knives and forks, &c. Nothing of all that 
 has been found, is to be met with in the Ionian islands, nothing 
 was carried to London to the British Museum, nor any where 
 else. I shall, however, when speaking of Ithaca have an oppor¬ 
 tunity of recurring to this subject. 
 
 The present Same is only a small village, but its harbour is 
 accessible to large ships, being protected by the Cape Alexan¬ 
 der. Here also I saw an interesting convent, being a monastery 
 and fortress at the same time. Adjoining it stands a square 
 tower, which communicates with the convent by means of a 
 drawbridge. On the top of the tower is a terrace, with em¬ 
 brasures lor cannon. Four small pieces with other arms and 
 ammunition used to be kept here; and thither the monks 
 retreated on the landing of pirates at Same. The road to the 
 convent is very steep, but the whole forms a very picturesque 
 group. 
 
 Of the cities of Prona and Nesos, whose station is rather un¬ 
 certain, as no ruins are found in the spots pointed out as such, I 
 saw nothing; nor did I see the fortress of Axo or Asso. I was 
 compelled to hurry from the bay of St. Steffano, whence my 
 boat was to take me on-board in the evening. 
 
 With a small parcel tied up in a handkerchief, which was not 
 likely to entice any robbers, I proceeded from Same in a S. E. 
 direction towards the appointed bay. I had to cross some 
 rugged hills, where I arrived on an eminence from which I had 
 Voyages and Travels, Vol. V1IL G 
 
4§ Journey through Greece 
 
 &gaui a beautiful view of the channel and Ithaca. The bay 
 alsOj with its ruined houses, lay beneath me. I arrived in time; 
 but the coast-keepers would not allow our boat to land to 
 receive me, supposing it to be a Greek boat, coming under 
 the Ionian flag to Cephalonia, for the purpose of propagating 
 Greek principles, and at the same time to carry on a contra¬ 
 band trade. But by dint of a hand-full of oboli the strict guar¬ 
 dians were silenced, and the boat permitted to enter the bay. 
 
 This sequestered spot possesses many picturesque charms. 
 Passing by the ruins of two houses, destroyed by earthquakes, 
 I arrived at a rocky cave of bold masses, formed by the sea. 
 To the right, before descending into it, lies a ruined chapel, from 
 the early ages of Christianity. The guards said it was the chapel 
 of St. Cecilia. An antique painting of the hemisphere, on the 
 cieling, shews, in rude groups and forms, the whole of the Chris¬ 
 tian hierarchy. A great part of it is destroyed, but the princi¬ 
 pal objects may still be traced. This painting seems to be of 
 the fifth or sixth century. Over the cave rises a hill closely 
 covered by a shrubbery of myrtles. Here again is a beautiful 
 prospect of Ithaca. 
 
 The evening gave us a high treat. The master of the boat 
 had brought a goat from Argostoli, which was put on the spit 
 and roasted by a clear fire. Under the bright starry heaven I 
 lay by the side of the fire, in the company of our five mariners 
 and tne two guards, who would not lose sight of us, and who 
 probably, for the sake of the goat, became attached to us. 
 They even pointed out to us some neighbouring springs close 
 by the sea-shore under the sand, such as I had seen in Zante. 
 Two sailors, one of the guards, and I, went for the water, and 
 brought a sufficiency for the evening and the next day. On 
 that side too stood some oleanders in beautiful bloom, between 
 bold groups of rock and colossal aloes. Thousands of aro¬ 
 matic plants exhaled their perfumes, which for a native of 
 the north offers the sweetest enjoyment; whilst the inhabitants 
 of these climates scarcely notice them. Towards midnight we 
 parted from our guards, rowing from the coast in a dead calm. 
 
 Passing by the bay of Alexandria, at the southernmost extrem¬ 
 ity of which lies Same, we entered into the channel Viscardo or 
 Cephalonia, the breadth of which in some places is not above 
 an Italian mile. Both the islands only display here rude chains 
 of mountains, almost without any cultivation, particularly that 
 of Ithaca. Trees are not to be met with only here and there, 
 whilst the high shelving rocks are merely adorned with a few 
 “wretched shrubs. 
 
 A favourable breeze having sprang up, we had advanced 
 &b©ut fifteen miles, when a thunder-storm began to threaten us* 
 
and the Ionian Inlands. ' 
 
 43 
 
 The master, not wishing to expose himself with his small vessel 
 to its effects in this dangerous channel, (where with their short 
 cables and small anchors they reached no ground,) quickly en- 
 tered the bay Viscardo, situated near the cape of the same name. 
 Thus we were sheltered against a very violent gale, by which, 
 even in the bay, our vessel was very much tossed about. In the 
 terrible currents of the channel it would have been inevitably 
 lost, as it would have been thrown against the rocks of Ithaca, 
 During the night we were disturbed by the shrill noise of 
 the cicada on deck, a noise which annoyed me in all the 
 Ionian islands, and in the Morea. I must, however, contradict 
 the opinion that the night air on the Mediterranean sea is 
 injurious to health. During my excursions from Naples to 
 Messina, from Agrigentum to Syracuse, from Messina to Zante, 
 thence through the Ionian islands, and ultimately from Corfu to 
 Vfenice, I almost invariably slept upon deck, without experi- 
 encing any bad effects from it. I even cured many of sea-sick-* 
 ness by making them exchange at night the confined air of the 
 cabin for the open air of the deck. Can there be any thing 
 more beautiful than the nights in the southern climates ? The 
 following day it blew a brisk gale from the N. W., which pre* 
 vented us from leaving our harbour. Taking advantage of this 
 delay, I made an excursion on the beautiful hills, which in this 
 spot were tolerably green; but the time was too short for a trip 
 on the west side, where Nesos is said to have once stood. At 
 the back of the bay Viscardo I saw the sacred ruins of a Ro¬ 
 man bath. On the north-side of the bay rises a hill, strewed 
 over with large stones. On the top are the ruins of the castle 
 Viscardo, destroyed by earthquakes. This is the famous Cape 
 Viscardo, which in the wars on the Adriatic made so great a 
 figure. The view from these ruins is one of the most interesting 
 in the world. On the other side of the channel lies Ithaca; and 
 the roaring of the sea, breaking against its rocky shores, sounds 
 like distant thunder in the ear. Quite to the left is Leukas, or 
 Santa Maura', and on its extremity the Leucadian rock. The 
 view of the bay, surrounded by its beautiful hills, is also very 
 pleasing, On the south-west side lies a small church surrounded 
 with cypress-trees; higher up is a small, village, delightfully pic¬ 
 turesque ; to the west a hill, covered by olives and myrtle-trees. 
 The island of Cephalonia is the largest of the Ionian islands. 
 Its length is about fifty-two and its breadth thirty-one miles. 
 The number of its inhabitants is estimated at from sixty to sixty- 
 two thousand.—It has three towns : Argostoli, Lixuri, and the 
 fortress of Axo, and about one hundred and twenty-hve villages, 
 for the most part poor and wretched. A great part of the 
 island is rugged and overspread with barren roc_k?. The lViont§ 
 
 G % 
 
44 Journey through Greece 
 
 Nero was once thickly covered with wood, whence it was also 
 called Silva Nero; but the trees have all disappeared, being cut 
 down for fuel by the natives during the supineness of the Vene¬ 
 tian government. A great part of the island might be cul¬ 
 tivated, if the natives were willing and industrious. Its rocky 
 and mountainous soil, covered with luxuriant herbage, seems to 
 be particularly fitted for the breed of sheep; but no attempts 
 have yet been made to introduce them, and there are no 
 sheep in the island. This is the only kind of pastures. The 
 corn grown by the natives only supplies them for four or five 
 months of the year; the rest, together with the oxen and sheep 
 for consumption, must be imported from the Morea. There are 
 only herds of goats in Cephalonia. The island, however, 
 produces nearly seven millions of pounds of currants; which, 
 together with the large quantities of oil, are their chief produce, 
 and the branch of commerce with which they cover the expences 
 incurred for the importation of the necessaries of life. They 
 also raise cotton and silk, which are better than those of the 
 Morea; but in small quantities. The w r ine grown on the island 
 only suffices for the home consumption, and in quality it is 
 inferior to that of Zante. About sixty years ago, an adventurer 
 tried to introduce the cultivation of indigo and sugar: the in¬ 
 troduction of Spanish sheep would have answered better. Hor¬ 
 ticulture is only practised by those who unite wealth with the 
 knowledge of other countries. Much has been done by the En¬ 
 glish for its extent; but the mass of the people have as yet' 
 no idea of it. They grow, however, some very good melons, 
 which are preferred to those of Malta. The island possesses an 
 abundance of medical herbs, many of which are remarkable for 
 their properties. What an early traveller says respecting the 
 plants which form an absolute remedy against the gout and 
 palsy, I have found confirmed. It is remarkable that both these 
 diseases are so prevalent on an island in the same latitude as 
 Calabria; whilst at Naples, which is two degrees farther north, 
 they are unknown. A plant was also mentioned to me as grow¬ 
 ing here, which, as I was told, covers the enamel of the teeth 
 with an indistructible bright gold colour, and another, which 
 seems to impart to gold a silver tinge. 
 
 The chace is unimportant on the island. Moor-fowls, and 
 birds of passage, are only seen in some places. The fishery might 
 be more considerable, if the inhabitants would exert themselves. 
 The roads, in the interior of the island, are rough and rocky, 
 and only passable on foot, or with animals accustomed to them. 
 
 On the summit of Monte Nero manna used to be found upon 
 the leaves of the trees, which are now cut down. Human bones 
 
45 
 
 and the Ionian Islands. 
 
 are still dug up there in large quantities. This circumstance 
 seems to confirm the tradition that the inhabitants used to seek 
 refuge upon this mountain, whenever the Turks or Moors landed 
 on the island. When the Turks became masters of the island, 
 thousands of the inhabitants are said to have been starved to 
 death on this mountain. The earthquakes are here as frequent 
 as in Zante; and there seems not only to be one connecting 
 train for both, from S. to N., but Ceplialonia seems also to have 
 its distinct volcanic laboratory. Besides its own earthquakes 
 of 1736, 1743, and 1752, from which Zante was exempt, Cepha- 
 lonia was also violently shaken by those which desolated the 
 latter island. That of 1820-21 was very dreadful in its effects. 
 The water in all the wells on the island has a sulphurous smell. 
 The climate is but moderately hot, considering the latitude of 
 the country. Rapid and dangerous transitions from oppressive 
 heat to great coldness are not rare. Perhaps they are the cause 
 of the frequency of the gout and palsy. In summer it hardly 
 ever rains, more than in the south of Italy. In winter snow 
 falls only on the Monte Nero, but thunder-storms are both fre¬ 
 quent and violent. 
 
 What I have said above concerning the respectable inhabi¬ 
 tants of Argostoli, may also be applied to those of the same 
 class in the interior of Cephalonia. Every where I met with a 
 kind reception and hospitable politeness. 
 
 The Cephaloniots, upon the whole, are the most acute and 
 dextrous among all the Ionian islanders, and are the most amia¬ 
 ble in their manners. Persevering in the execution of any plan 
 upon which they have once fixed, they exert all their physical 
 and intellectual strength in it: nothing deters, nothing stops them. 
 But it cannot be truly said, that for the attainment of their 
 object they consider every means equally just; but they have 
 the dangerous talent of assuming all forms and shapes. The 
 English also say that the Cephaloniots are fond of intrigue and 
 revenge; but the source of this opinion is to be suspected. The 
 superior order of natives love and cherish the sciences. This 
 island, as well as Corfu, gave the Republic of Venice several 
 distinguished statesmen and heroes. 
 
 Hospitality is really a national virtue with these islanders. I 
 have met it in the interior, even from the poorest; and they offer 
 a draught of water and their coarse bread with the greatest plea¬ 
 sure. Strangers are much respected among them. It is pleasing 
 to see, however, the meanest of the inhabitants try to enlarge 
 their knowledge by a strong spirit of enquiry. This is not 
 common among the Greeks, who proudly despise every thing 
 that is foreign. Besides this, the inhabitants, who, as I have 
 
46 
 
 Journey through Greece 
 
 said before, are strangers to oriental customs, are fond of bois¬ 
 terous mirth and pleasure, a peculiarity which is particularly 
 noticed among the higher classes. 
 
 If I am not misled by appearances, the Cephalonians take 
 less interest in the present affairs of Greece than all the 
 Xonians. This may be seen from the conduct they have hitherto 
 observed, and it is also confirmed by the English. Their judg¬ 
 ment in these affairs had always been calm and steady. Yet I 
 have often heard that the Cephalonians also would gladly join 
 the Greeks, if they once saw a prospect of success. 
 
 The internal security of the country forms a great contrast 
 with the insecurity which is said to prevail in Zante. Yet, it 
 is said, that in former times it was different here, in this respect, 
 although they had a capitan del hosco , whose office it was to 
 keep the forests of Monte Nero free from robbers. With these 
 forests, also, the robbers have disappeared. Under the efficient 
 police, kept up by the English on the island, they would not 
 be suffered to remain long. 
 
 LETTER XL 
 
 Ithaca , Avgust. 
 
 On the third morning after our entering the bay Viscardo, 
 the wind having again abated, we left it, and entered the same 
 forenoon the harbour of Thiaki or Vatki. I had not much 
 time left to examine this island, as we were to sail this same 
 evening for Santa Maura. It was, therefore, fortunate for me 
 that all the objects of antiquity and interest on the island were 
 brought together in a narrow compass. An old Albanian, who 
 had long lived in Ithaca, and who generally accompanies the 
 English of Corfu upon their excursions to the island, acted as 
 my guide. He told me that it required nothing but to go to 
 the top of the hill, to see there, as well as on the road thither, 
 ever thing of note contained in Ithaca. We first went to the 
 objects nearest Thiaki or Yatki to the S. E., to the well-known 
 rock Korax, to the fountain Arethusa, and close by this to a 
 spot where the brave Eumaeus is said to have resided. Within 
 an hour we arrived at the top of the hill, which traverses all 
 Ithaca, keeping it together like a bandage. At the top of the 
 hill, near vatki, are the celebrated walls said to be the re¬ 
 mains of Ulysses’ castle. The architecture of these walls, (for 
 nothing else is left,) is Cyclopian, and their colossal character, at 
 all events, bespeaks a high antiquity. Their proportions are 
 remarkable, being about twelve feet high and six feet broad, 
 
tind the Ionian Islands, 47 
 
 &nd of considerable length. They must once have formed part 
 of a very large edifice. 
 
 At half-an-hour’s journey from these walls we came to 
 the ancient Greek tombs, the simplicity of which would not 
 lead any one to suspect that such precious articles were found 
 in them as actually have been there discovered. Ten years ago 
 some English travellers caused excavations to be made here, for 
 which they were rewarded by the discovery of a considerable 
 quantity of coins, gold, silver, and bronze utensils, &c. Colonel 
 De Bosset collected coins in Ithaca which had not been known 
 before, but whether he has published any thing concerning them 
 I know not. Lately some other valuable articles were dug out 
 here; but all this is done in private by British officers. Many 
 of the articles lately found are said to have been sold to the 
 British Museum; but the most valuable objects have disap¬ 
 peared, and among these, also, a crown. This I have heard 
 from many well-informed English gentlemen, but I was parti¬ 
 cularly told by Count R. a well-informed man, who, during the 
 first years of the English administration had been a member of 
 the senate, and has lived above twenty years in the Ionian 
 islands, that all objects of value found since the introduction 
 of the English administrations in Ceplialonia and Ithaca, had 
 been divided among the civil officers of that nation, who had 
 them melted down for domestic use; but that the beautiful 
 crown which, according to the description given of it, seems to 
 have had the shape of the Lombard crown of Monza, had been 
 broken, and the pieces divided among several British officers; 
 that he himself had held some of the pieces in his hand, and, 
 therefore, could vouch for the truth of the statement. 
 
 But no one can be astonished at this profanation of Greek 
 antiquities by the English, who has seen what class of men 
 the British government think proper to send out for the govern¬ 
 ment and administration of the Ionian republic ! 
 
 The breaking and dividing of that crown will not surprise the 
 English, if once the spirit is understood which induced Lord 
 Elgin to plunder the Parthenon, and which tempted some others 
 to commit the Vandalism of carrying off, by a military force, the 
 Pliigalian frios from the Temple of Bafae , of which it had 
 formed a part. “ We destroy all that others call most glorious, 
 we destroy it, if we can but obtain a piece of it, for we are Bri¬ 
 tons, and despise all the rest, even the public opinion of the 
 whole world, except that of Old England!” This is every 
 where the guiding principle which explains all. 
 
 In the vicinity of Vathi the ruins of a Roman edifice are 
 shewn, which are commonly described under the name of 
 
48 Journey through Greece 
 
 Homer’s school. I have not been able to distinguish whether it 
 had been a temple or a private building. I saw no other anti¬ 
 quities in Ithaca; and my cicerone assured me faithfully that 
 there was nothing else left. 
 
 The island (the inhabitants of which, according to some, 
 amount to 6000, and to others not to above three or 4,000) 
 consists almost entirely of rude, bare mountains, and is on all 
 sides, where it has no harbours, surrounded by steep rocks and 
 projecting cliffs. The whole of the western coast, towards the 
 channel of Viscardo, shews not the least trace of cultivation, or 
 human habitations, except two wind-mills on the top of the 
 northern mountain which Strabo calls Neius. It also seems im¬ 
 possible to force cultivation upon these rocks. Nevertheless, 
 the small quantity of corn grown here not only suffices for 
 the consumption of the whole year, but affords some for ex¬ 
 portation to Cephalonia and Zante, where it fetches better prices 
 than the corn of the Morea. 
 
 The quantity of currants grown here amounts to about four 
 millions of pounds per annum. These, together with some oil, 
 and some good wine, form the object of their export trade; and 
 with which they purchase their cattle from the Morea, since they 
 have none in their island. 
 
 Game is insignificant; their fishing is more productive. They 
 also have excellent poultry, particularly some large turkies, 
 which would have pleased the ever-feasting lovers of Penelope, 
 in times of yore. But they grow very little fruit and few vege¬ 
 tables on their rocks. The earthquakes are less frequent here, 
 as the subterraneous laboratories which run under Zante and 
 Cephalonia, do not seem to extend to this island. The number 
 of villages is about five. 
 
 The island has a most excellent harbour, from which every 
 breath of air is excluded. The harbour of Thiaki is entirely 
 enclosed by mountains, which forms a very interesting sight. 
 But there are several more places round the coast which might be 
 used as harbours. The natives are addicted to trade and naviga¬ 
 tion, perhaps more even than those of Cephalonia; but their 
 mental capacities are not so great. In other respects they resem¬ 
 ble the Ionians in character, manners, customs, and dress. 
 
 LETTER XII. 
 
 Santa Maura, August. 
 
 We left Ithaca in the evening. It was with some difficulty 
 I persuaded the captain to promise that he would put me on¬ 
 shore near the cape Ducato, in a bay below Dragano, if we should 
 
and the Ionian Islands. 49 
 
 be allowed, under the condition that I should join him at Santa 
 Maura in the evening. Before reaching this bay, in the south¬ 
 east of the island, we reached a spot, where the sea had the ap¬ 
 pearance of an extensive' lake, as we saw ourselves completely 
 encompassed by land, except near Cape Ducato in the south, 
 where a small opening remained perceptible. Thus the coasts 
 of the three islands of Ceplialonia, Thiaki, and Santa Maura, 
 appeared united. When arrived in the bay, some guards opposed 
 our landing; because, only a few days before, an Epirot bark was 
 landed there with revolutionary letters and contraband goods. 
 On producing my introductory letters from Cephalonia to the 
 resident at Santa Maura, Major Temple, they immediately with¬ 
 drew their opposition. As I only intended to go to the top of 
 the Cape Ducato, which is the ancient Cape Leucas, one of the 
 guards gave me his two stout lads, who happened to be near, to 
 accompany me. The rock from which the Leucadian leap used 
 to be takeh, is on the west side of the cape, and about 140 feet 
 high. However, I do not wish to guarantee this height, as I 
 merely measured it by the eye, which is frequently deceptive. 
 
 I heard much in Cephalonia about a Greek inscription which 
 was said to be cut in the rock, about ten or eleven feet under 
 the surface. This matter was of too great interest not to spend 
 a few of my oboli upon it. I therefore sent for a strong rope 
 from Dragano, which I fastened round my waist and shoulders. 
 Two men who brought it undertook with the two lads to hold 
 the rope, and to let it slip gently till I reached within ten or 
 eleven feet below the top, which I first measured off. Thus I 
 swung myself over the edge, and gradually descended to the 
 required depth, without perceiving a trace of any inscription, 
 either before me or on the right or left. It created a singular 
 sensation thus to hang by a rope high above the sea; while the 
 raging surf already seemed to welcome me with its spray, which 
 it dashed upwards. However, after a few minutes, my people 
 again pulled me up, and I was safe. 
 
 They informed me that several strangers before me had under¬ 
 taken the investigation of the supposed inscription without any 
 better success; and the above-mentioned Count R. told me in 
 Venice, that he himself had made the attempt without discover¬ 
 ing any vestige of an inscription. This inscription, therefore, 
 has either never existed, or it has fallen down into the sea with 
 the rocks; or, perhaps, it is still lower than ten or eleven feet 
 from the top. The traces, too, of the once-famed temple of 
 Apollo on this promontory are very slight and difficult to discern. 
 A heap of old rubbish was pointed out to me as the ruins of the 
 temple; but they seem to me rather to have belonged to a tower 
 than to a large temple. There is, however, an old shaft of a 
 Voyages and Travels, Vol. VIII. H 
 
50 Journey through Greece 
 
 pillar among them, which is the only criterion to lead any one 
 to consider these as the mins of a temple. 
 
 Of the fabulous story of the discovery of an unknown poem of 
 Sappho to Phaori, in a Greek tomb near the ruins of the temple, 
 by a M. Ossur, of St. Petersburg; I suppose, nothing farther 
 has been heard since its first promulgation. After Sappho, 
 the leap into the sea from this rock was often tried as a remedy. 
 In an after period, this sacred spot was degraded by criminals 
 condemned to death, being thrown from the rock into the sea. 
 If they effected the leap without being killed, their lives were 
 granted to them. 
 
 In the bay where I landed lay a small bark, which was imme¬ 
 diately about to sail for Santa Maura. I preferred this convey¬ 
 ance to a journey over-land, which would have been without 
 interest, besides the risk of being too late for the evening, as I 
 should have lost two hours of my day’s journey, owing to the 
 excessive heat on this island, during the month of August. 
 
 LETTER XIII. 
 
 Santa Maura, August. 
 
 We passed with our little boat between Meganisi and the 
 continent, making our way among a great number of small 
 islands, banks, and rocks, which are very dangerous to large 
 vessels; and happily entered the harbour of Santa Maura. The 
 town is also called A maxichi, or Aja-Maura, and lies on the 
 north-east side of the island. It has been the capital of the 
 island ever since the fortress was abandoned by government. 
 But it is still small and insignificant, ill-built and dirty; although 
 the English have effected some improvements by the building of 
 new houses, the paving of one street, and a good police. The 
 town contains but one principal street, which was only paved in 
 the latter times of the Venetian government. There is also St. 
 Mark’s square here, which contains two churches, the Latin and 
 the Greek. In the centre of it stands a column which had been 
 found in the ruins of Nicopolis. Owing to the earthquakes the 
 houses are but one story high, with the exception of a few, and 
 among these, the houses built by the English have two stories. 
 Many of the older ones are surrounded by galleries, which are 
 covered with canvass, and are very pleasant during the heat of 
 the summer. They are without any taste or architectural beauty. 
 The town has fourteen Greek churches, the best of which is 
 devoted to St. Mina. 
 
 The neighbourhood is very pleasant. The prospect from the 
 hills over the town, which seems to be situated in the midst of a 
 garden of orange, lemon, almond, and olive-trees, is delicious; 
 
and the Ionian Islands. 51 
 
 it also includes part of the adjoining continent, and some of the 
 islands. 
 
 About five months ago, the pressure of taxation, together with 
 the political events in Greece, caused so violent an insurrection 
 in Santa Maura, that the English troops on the island were re¬ 
 pulsed, and the natives could not be subdued till after the arrival 
 of a reinforcement of men and artillery from Corfu. Two priests 
 were taken and executed on this occasion. Their bodies are 
 still seen dangling in the wind, a spectacle hardly calculated to 
 add to the beauty of the town. 
 
 The present British resident in Santa Maura is Major Temple, 
 who has only been here these seven or eight weeks. His prede¬ 
 cessor, Colonel Ross, will always be remembered in the island 
 with gratitude for his humanity of disposition and kindness to 
 strangers. 
 
 Santa Maura contains about 6,500 inhabitants, almost all 
 Greeks. The fortress, built in the thirteenth century, by a 
 prince of the Spanish family, Tocchi, was almost entirely demo¬ 
 lished in 1715; but afterwards restored by the Venetians, and 
 lately improved by the English. Its situation is on the neck of 
 land to the north of Santa Maura, near the lagoons or shallows 
 which separate the island from the continent; it is almost en¬ 
 tirely surrounded by water, and difficult of access. 
 
 This sand-bank is so shallow that the natives often wade 
 across it. It would be a great benefit for the trade and naviga¬ 
 tion of Santa Maura, if this bank was again removed, as it was 
 formerly done, by the republic of Corinth; for which, too, the 
 inhabitants re-applied to the government of Venice. But the 
 Venetian republic of that time was not that of Corinth. 
 
 The well-known aqueduct, constructed by the Turks under 
 the famous Bajazet, leads across the lagoons which separate the 
 fortress from the town of Santa Maura. It has been much 
 injured by the earthquakes. The water-channel running between 
 the top of the arches and the pavement of the aqueduct, is al¬ 
 most destroyed. The breadth of the aqueduct, exclusively of 
 the side-walls, is three feet. It is now only used as a path for 
 foot-passengers, which is, however, not without danger, as it 
 frequently breaks under them, and the unfortunate people are 
 precipitated into the marsh underneath, from which it is difficult 
 to escape. The aqueduct is supported by 370 arches, so closely 
 built together, that they will not admit the smallest boat to go 
 through them. The people of Santa Maura have an old tradi¬ 
 tion of this aqueduct. They say that Bajazet having given 
 100,000 zecchins to the architect for the raising of the structure, 
 the latter saved 30,000, and returned them to the sultan. But 
 the latter, enraged by his not having employed the whole sum 
 
52 
 
 Journey through Greece 
 
 as had been ordered, had his head struck off. There is great 
 probability in this tradition, as it entirely bears the character of 
 Bajazet’s barbarous age. To the south of Santa Maura are the 
 salt-pits, so important to the island. 
 
 The ancient city of Leukas lay, probably, south of the present 
 town. At least, it is there where ruins of Cyclopian walls are 
 still seen, and which, I think, may best be compared with those 
 of Fondi, on the borders of Naples; and which are, unquestion¬ 
 ably, of Greek origin. I have not been able to learn whether 
 any antiquities have been found here. The population of the 
 whole island amounts to about 16,000; which are distributed 
 over one town and thirty-two villages. This small island, never¬ 
 theless, contains six male monasteries; of which, those of St. 
 John the Baptist and of St. George are the wealthiest. 
 
 Santa Maura, like Cephalonia and Thiaki, is covered with 
 rude and barren mountains, of which the highest are situated 
 towards the centre of the island. They might, however, be im¬ 
 proved were it not for want of hands and industry. It has but 
 one very fertile and agreeable plain, in which the town is situated, 
 and one small valley. 
 
 Santa Maura may rather be called a peninsula than an island, 
 being, in fact, connected with the continent by the sand-bank, 
 which begins near the gulf of Arto, and extends for an hour and 
 a half as far as the town of Santa Maura; about which the water, 
 in its deepest parts, is but six feet. The channel between the 
 continent and the island is only navigable for boats. Vessels of 
 any burthen are compelled to keep on the west side of the island, 
 where they meet with a small harbour. 
 
 The navigation near this island, especially near cape Ducato, 
 or Leucate, has always been considered dangerous ; and several 
 ships are annually wrecked there through the powerful currents. 
 The island, like the other Ionian isles, has no river of any im¬ 
 portance, but it has more good springs of fresh water. 
 
 In a small valley surrounded by mountains, in the vicinity of 
 the town, the waters, towards the middle of October, accumu¬ 
 late, and form a lake of about an hour’s journey in circumference. 
 In the month of May the water runs off, and then the fertilized 
 ground bears corn, fruits, and vegetables in abundance. But 
 the produce goes entirely to the monks of the neighbouring 
 convent. 
 
 N otwithstanding its barren mountains, the island furnishes 
 more wood than the neighbouring isles; and the natives are 
 relieved from the necessity of drawing their fuel from the conti¬ 
 nent. Near Santa Maura I was agreeably surprised by the sight 
 of some fine oaks. Almond and olive-trees are frequent, and 
 they often grow to a prodigious size. 
 
 This plain, as I have already observed, is very fertile; there 
 
and the Ionian Islands. 
 
 53 
 
 the orange and lemon-tree are ranged by the side of common 
 fruit-trees ; under their shade grow corn, wine, and flax, in 
 abundance; and those gigantic almond and olive-trees overshade 
 the whole, which recalls to the mind the richness of Campania 
 and Sicily. Currants are not much cultivated here; but the soil 
 and a more northerly climate being against them. Their wines 
 too, are not distinguished for their qualities, nor are any produced 
 for exportation. 
 
 The vegetables, however, are peculiarly large and fine; parti¬ 
 cularly the artichokes; there being many fine gardens about the 
 town. Cattle are much wanting, as in the other islands, and are 
 imported from the continent. Besides the mules requisite for 
 the cultivation of the soil or the carriage of goods, only a few 
 wretched flocks of goats and sheep are seen on the island. The 
 mountains are rich in game; the chace, however, is very little 
 followed. The fisheries near the coast are exceedingly produc¬ 
 tive ; there being an abundance of the most excellent soal, and 
 other fish. 
 
 Of metals there seem to be none: but the salt-pits are very 
 productive. Salt also forms the principal article of trade of the 
 island: being exported in large quantities to all parts of Italy, 
 and even to Sweden. 
 
 The shipping of the island has been a little increased since 
 the administration of the island fell to the English; and the 
 natives do not now so frequently entrust their cargoes to foreign¬ 
 ers, especially the Greeks of Pevesa, as they used to do. 
 
 The climate is very mild in autumn and winter, which both 
 resemble a mild spring; but in spring and summer the island 
 suffers from excessive heat, as I can witness from my own ex¬ 
 perience, although this summer was not reckoned among the 
 hottest. 
 
 In the vicinity of the lagoons and marshes, and, consequently, 
 in all those parts of the island nearest the continent, the air is 
 very unhealthy : near the town it is most unhealthy. The east¬ 
 erly winds still increase their injurious effects, as they bring 
 pestilential vapours with them from the gulf of Arta, and create 
 frequent fevers. In summer, north and west winds are most 
 prevalent; in winter, south and east. 
 
 Santa Maura likewise suffers much from earthquakes. Scarcely 
 a month passes without some commotion of the earth more or less 
 strong. The subterraneous connection, however, seems not to 
 extend to the south towards Cephalonia, Thiaki, and Zante, 
 but more to the west; for the dreadful commotions which de¬ 
 vastated those islands, were less felt here than that which, in 
 1783, desolated Calabria and Messina. But, moreover, Santa 
 Maura has its own laboratory of earthquakes. 
 
54 
 
 Journey through Greece 
 
 The national character of the natives essentially differs from 
 that of the neighbouring islands, which may be occasioned by 
 their proximity to the continent, and their frequent intercourse 
 with its inhabitants. In general, it is true, the St. Mauriot is 
 gentle, peaceable, and credulous, but if long teazed he becomes 
 furious. This was proved in the last insurrection in March. 
 
 There is much of the manners of the Turks and Moreats 
 among them, the same as in Zante; with the exception that 
 the women, who, in that island are much restrained, live here in 
 perfect freedom. This circumstance is the metre pleasing, as 
 they are handsomer than the females of any other of the Ionian 
 islands. Their dress, in the variety of its embroideries, bears 
 the character of the east; but it is tasteful, and made to fit their 
 handsome shapes. The dresses of the males are also distin¬ 
 guished from those of the other lonians, by a greater display 
 and more embroidery. 
 
 LETTER XIV. 
 
 Corfu, August. 
 
 Our captain having arranged his mercantile affairs, and wind 
 and weather being favourable, we weighed our small anchor 
 towards midnight, and steered towards the south, through that 
 intricacy of sand-banks and clusters of islands round the cape 
 Ducato, the white rocks of which now magically shone in the 
 pale light of the moon. 
 
 Near the rock of Sessola, so dangerous to seamen, we met 
 with a perfect calm ; and the current from the north was so pow¬ 
 erful, that, in spite of all our exertions with our oars, we could 
 not advance against it. Already our captain prepared himself 
 to enter a small harbour of Santa Maura, when a brisk scirocco 
 sprang up, and forced the current to change its direction. This 
 brought us so quickly forward that we soon left Santa Maura far 
 behind us. 
 
 With a little wind, in a southern summer, it is very plea¬ 
 sant to sail in such a bark, under so bright a sky, especially 
 in a sea where you may, every moment, land on some interesting 
 spot. Thus I hope one day to circumnavigate the coasts of 
 Calabria, Apulia, and Sicily, with which, as yet, we are so little 
 acquainted. Besides, the life which I led in my Ionian bark, 
 corresponded with the voyage, void of all enjoyments and 
 comforts, which are neither known nor sought for in the south 
 of Italy. 
 
 In the morning, when the sun rose, his early rays gilding the 
 distant mountain-tops, the master, with his people, lifted up 
 their eyes to him in prayer. We breakfasted on salt-fish, a 
 
55 
 
 and the Ionian Islands. 
 
 little ewe-cheese from Perigo, and wine, accompanied by onions 
 and ship’s biscuits. At noon, when the sun darted his burning 
 rays down upon our heads, the dinner was Very welcome. 
 Whenever the position of the sails permitted, a mat or sail was 
 spread horizontally, in order to afford us a shelter. Next came 
 some salt-meat, or, at times, fresh, having been bought in the last 
 harbour, when it had not been too dear there. Again, salt-fish, 
 onions, and a refreshing water-melon. The wine was served up 
 in a large jug, which went round from mouth to mouth. We 
 then slept for an hour and a half. If the wind was not favourable, 
 the sails, during this time, were taken in, and the bark went 
 backwards with the current. At evening, when the sun set, 
 spreading its rich tints over the earth, the mariners again sent 
 their prayers after him, and a supper was taken resembling the 
 breakfast. 
 
 Our men performed their labour, which was often very hard 
 when they had to pull against the current, even during the 
 
 f reatest heat, singing, and with the most perfect good-humour. 
 
 had learnt one of their favourite Greek songs, and when, 
 during the evening and at night, I plied my oar, I sung it with 
 them, a circumstance which gave them much pleasure. Indeed, 
 they were all very fond of me, and did whatever they could to 
 please me; so easy it is to gain the affection of simple people. 
 They also placed great confidence in me, as at the first jug of 
 wine I had drank to the success of the Greek cause. 
 
 From sun-set till midnight we slept soundly upon deck, 
 with the exception of the man at the helm, being sufficiently 
 tired by the labour of the day. The bare boards formed our 
 bed, a thick boat-cloak our covering, and some small barrel, an 
 oar, a buoy, &c. served for a pillow. After midnight the voyage 
 was continued, either sailing or rowing. The people sung and 
 seemed perfectly happy. 
 
 I took my share in all their inconveniences and pleasures, and 
 was more and more firmly convinced, that the greatest sim¬ 
 plicity in living, together with bodily labour, imparts the most 
 delightful elasticity to our existence, by imparting strength and 
 physical energy to our bodies. Nay, I may say more, such a 
 manner of living also cures various bodily affliction. In the 
 summer of 1820, in sailing from Naples to Leghorn, I had hurt 
 my chest in assisting the men in casting anchor; the effects of 
 which, together with the pain in my left arm, caused by the 
 blow I had received from the robbers in the Morea, I had still 
 felt on leaving Zante. But I lost both through my plain and 
 active life on-board the small vessel, my journeys in the heat of 
 the day, and through frequent bathing in the sea, which I often 
 
56 
 
 Journey through Greece 
 
 did three or four times a-day; being almost the only refreshment 
 to be procured in a southern climate. 
 
 Misled by false statements of travellers, the thing I dreaded 
 most in the south was thescirocco. But neither in Italy, Naples, 
 Sicily, nor the Ionian islands, did I feel it differently from any 
 other southerly wind. The natives of those countries scarcely 
 perceive it, and there are but few foreigners that feel any heavi¬ 
 ness or oppression from it. The scirocco should not be con¬ 
 founded with the solano, which blows with a burning and suffo¬ 
 cating heat from the deserts of Lybia; but it is of rare occur¬ 
 rence. I have only felt it once, and this was in the gulf of 
 Naples. 
 
 Our favourable scirocco blew still; it was night, and we had 
 arrived opposite Anti-paxu. We were all asleep except old 
 Dimetri, who, like Palinurus, sate by the helm. All at once 
 the bark ran upon one of the many sand-banks between Anti- 
 paxu and Paxu. We all instantly awoke : and a terrible noise 
 ensued. Dimetri was accused of having been asleep, which 
 might have been very possible. He, on the other hand, main¬ 
 tained that the bank must have been lately formed, since, 
 during a twenty-five years navigation upon these seas, he had 
 never known it. All our exertions with oars and poles proved 
 ineffectual, although only half of the bark had got upon the 
 bank. If a puff of wind had pushed it further, there would 
 indeed have been no danger, but we should have been kept 
 on the spot till another vessel had assisted ; which might perhaps 
 not have been for some days. We therefore all jumped into the 
 water, which only reached to mid-leg, and after long and repeated 
 exertions, our St. Magdalen, (this was the name of the bark) 
 was again set afloat. This was hailed by a general shout, and 
 the wine jug at breakfast was, for the first time during our 
 voyage, filled twice. 
 
 Anti-paxu is now more cultivated than it used to be. The 
 Paxiots, who only come here for the purpose of cultivation and 
 reaping, grow figs, oil, wine, and almonds on the island, which 
 only contains three huts for the keepers. 
 
 We saw the small harbour of Paxu, with its rocky island in 
 the middle of the entrance, but we did not land. We perceived 
 on the island the few remains of the fort built by the Neapoli¬ 
 tans when they were in possession of Corfu. A> light-house is 
 built here, the only one in the southern Ionian islands. 
 
 The small island of Paxu supports a very laborious race of 
 people. The cultivation of the olive, which produces better oil 
 than that of Corfu, and that of almonds, are the principal 
 branches of industry of the island. It looks green and cultivated, 
 which has a very pleasing effect upon the eye, on arriving from 
 
57 
 
 and the Ionian Islands. 
 
 the naked rocks of the more southern islands. The coast of 
 Paxu also offers great inducement for fishing. No poisonous 
 plant, no venomous reptile, is found on Paxu; nay, the sailors 
 told me very seriously that the mere sight of Paxu relieved the 
 St. Mauriot from many little grievances. 
 
 It is more than probable that Paxu was formerly connected 
 on the north with Corfu, from which it was torn by an earth¬ 
 quake. The nature and form of the rocks of the cape Blanco 
 in Corfu and those of the northern point of Paxu, together with 
 the similarity of soil, prove this former connection. Besides, 
 Homer and Virgil, who in general are so minute in their de¬ 
 scription of the Ionian sea, also are silent about Paxu. 
 
 We saw Parga lying on its pointed rocks, and saw the flash 
 and smoke of its cannon. The town was just attacked by a 
 troop of Epirots, under Perevos; but, as we subsequently 
 learnt at Corfu, unfortunately without success. Passing by Cape 
 Blanco, we soon arrived in the channel of Corfu. 
 
 The situation of the city of Corfu, with its old forts, jutting 
 out into the sea upon the lofty rocks, with the mountains 
 behind them, and the Mount St. Pantaleon in the vicinity, 
 presents a very picturesque appearance. 
 
 Passing along- the beautiful bay, south of the old fortress, 
 where many country-seats are scattered among the green hills 
 and between the dark shades of cypress-groves, we arrived in 
 the road and harbour of Corfu. We passed under the stem of 
 a British ship of the line towering majestically above us. They 
 were just hoisting the flag, and the band on-board performed 
 in their manner Rossini's Cenerentola . 
 
 LETTER XV. 
 
 Corfu , August. 
 
 The island of Corfu is separated only by a narrow channel 
 from the continent of Epirus, which in its widest parts is not 
 above eight miles in width, and in the narrowest places its 
 breadth is only two miles. The air of the island is considered 
 salubrious. The number of its inhabitants, which has been con¬ 
 stantly decreasing, is now scarcely sixty thousand, who are for 
 the most part Greeks. The island must once have contained 
 at least three hundred thousand people, if we consider what 
 they effected during the time of their independence, and even 
 subsequently under the Romans. 
 
 The climate is mild, but rather changeable, and not warm 
 enough to impart the requisite sweetness to currants, which, 
 only half a degree more to the south, come to perfect maturity, 
 ‘/oya&es and H ravels, Vol. VIII. I 
 
58 Journey through Greece 
 
 But the vicinity of the high mountains of Epirus may have a 
 great influence on the climate. The island has several small 
 rivers. The largest however, named Mensogni, is scarcely 
 wider than a large rivulet. Another, which is near the city of 
 Corfu, bears merely the name of Potamo, i. e. the river. The 
 island too sometimes suffers from earthquakes, which, however, 
 are not so violent as in the other more southern islands. And 
 although both sulphur and coal are found, it seems to have no 
 volcanic laboratory of its own. Its mountains are likewise 
 barren, yet of all the mountains of the larger Ionian islands, 
 they seem to be most wooded. But all their wood for fuel and 
 timber is imported from Dalmatia. 
 
 Oil is the chief produce of Corfu, and its cultivation might 
 be increased, if the natives were more industrious. Neverthe¬ 
 less, they grow sufficiently for their home consumption, and also 
 export enough to pay for all their imports. The wine grown in 
 the island supplies the inhabitants for half the year only; for 
 the remainder of the year they obtain it from Dalmatia. It is far 
 from being of a good quality. Corn is only grown sufficient for 
 four months of the year. 
 
 Horticulture is of little importance in Corfu, being checked 
 by the want of running streams; yet the natives produce excel¬ 
 lent winter melons, oranges, lemons, figs, and almonds. Between 
 the mountains and hills which cover the greater part of the 
 island, valleys and plains are found; yet they have not grass 
 enough to keep large cattle on them. The inhabitants, there¬ 
 fore, have only herds of goats, and all their cattle for slaughter 
 as well as their poultry is imported from the continent. Game 
 is rather plentiful, and is now eagerly pursued by the Eng¬ 
 lish. The fisheries are also important. The harbour of the 
 ancient city of Chrysopolis contains some excellent fish; coral 
 is found near the capes Sidero and Blanco. 
 
 Salt forms a part of the exports of the island, which possesses 
 several beds of coal; also some sulphur mines, and a spring of 
 mineral water. It likewise produces a species of grey marble. 
 
 Whatever I saw of the interior of Corfu, I found to be well 
 cultivated; and I was told that the same degree of cultivation 
 also prevailed in the central parts of the island. The English, 
 in this respect, have acted very beneficially, and by the building 
 of country-seats and cottages, and the formation of gardens, 
 parks, &c. they have given to the country a more inviting ap¬ 
 pearance than it probably had before. 
 
 The island is divided into four districts. The first is Leschimo, 
 and lies in the east. It contains the site of the ancient city of 
 Gardachi, at a distance of about a league from the coast, and 
 which is now occupied by a small village, and the ruins of an 
 
and the Ionian Islands. 59 
 
 ancient fort. This district has about twenty villages, and from 
 eleven to twelve thousand inhabitants. 
 
 The district of Argiru , in the west, is the most fertile. It is 
 said to contain eight thousand inhabitants in fifteen villages. 
 In this district lay the ancient city of Argiru, on a peninsula, 
 the site of which is now occupied by a Greek convent. This 
 city was destroyed by the Saracens, and upon its ruins Alexis 
 Comnenus built a fort, which, in the year 1403, was unsuccess¬ 
 fully besieged by the Genoese. 
 
 The district of Mezzo is the most important. It contains the 
 city of Corfu, with a population pf about twenty-five thousand 
 inhabitants. To the south of this city, are the spots pointed 
 out as the former cities of Chrisopolis, and the famous gardens 
 of Alcinous. The district of Oros, however, has but seven 
 thousand inhabitants, living in twenty villages. Here lay the 
 once famed city of Kassiopeia, with the splendid temple of 
 Jup iter Casius in the site now occupied by Rassopo. 
 
 In the weddings and funeral ceremonies of the people, many 
 customs of ancient Greece may be recognized. But they are 
 nearly lost among immoral and ridiculous practices. 
 
 The English in Corfu give the natives of this island a very 
 bad character. If their opinion concerning the Ionian island¬ 
 ers, and indeed the Greeks in general, were free from suspicion, 
 we should be led to believe that nature and education had denied 
 these people those good qualities for which the inhabitants of 
 St. Maura, Ithaca, Cephalonia, and Zante, are more or less dis¬ 
 tinguished ; and instead of them we should only find a combi¬ 
 nation of vices, which would place the Corfiots in the scale of 
 morality below all the other Greeks. 
 
 It is possible, that many of the bad qualities for which the 
 Greeks are so often reproached, such as indolence, cupidity, 
 want of faith and gratitude, sycophancy, superstition, &c. may 
 be more clearly traced among the Corfiots; much also may have 
 been added by the vices of the Venetian administration, the 
 effects of which may yet operate for many years. Nevertheless, 
 it appears to me very severe and unjust, to deny them every 
 opportunity for obtaining mental improvement honourable of 
 principle and domestic industry. 
 
 As yet nothing having been done towards such improvement, 
 the people live in darkness; and those, whose duty it would 
 be to elevate and enlighten them in their sphere, are, some of 
 them, uneducated and illiterate themselves, and others find it 
 their advantage to keep them in ignorance. 
 
 When the British administration has established proper means 
 for the instruction of the people, and the improvement of the 
 
 I 2 
 
60 J ourney through Greece 
 
 clergy; and if in this labour of restoration, after persevering for 
 an age, the inhabitants shall not become wiser or better, then, 
 and then only, will the British be justified in denying the Cor- 
 fiots the opportunity of moral improvement. 
 
 It cannot be denied that the natives are variously connected 
 with the armed Greeks of the continent,—that they participate 
 in the wishes and hopes of those who are there contending for 
 the sacred cause;—that they enthusiastically receive and pro¬ 
 pagate every account from that quarter, whether true or false, 
 probable or absurd; and that they are connected with many 
 plans entertained on the continent and the islands. I am not 
 inclined, altogether, to approve of such conduct in their present 
 circumstances. But does it prove their abjectness ? does it prove 
 the total enervation of the people ? their total indolence in 
 every moral effort ? a people which, although sunk in vice and 
 prejudice, has still a sense of its nationality : such a people is 
 not lost, but is still capable of a superior cultivation and moral 
 improvement. 
 
 Can it be considered a proof of the abjectness of the people^ 
 when they complain, and are indignant at the oppression of the 
 English ? And when they know and distinguish the measures 
 which the British administration allow themselves, in order to 
 make an Indian colony of an independent republic ? 
 
 LETTER XVI. 
 
 Corfu , August. 
 
 Considering the ancient glory of Corfu, we expected to 
 find many antiquities on the island. But this is not the fact; 
 there are, on the contrary, less here than in any other of 
 the smaller Ionian islands. In the city, near the Porta Reale, 
 is a small octagonal Greek church, which was evidently formed 
 from a rotunda, which seems to have been built in the latter 
 times of the Romans. It still has the old columns, consisting 
 of blue-and-white marble. About three miles from Corfu, near 
 the salt-lake, to the west of the harbour, are shewn slight and 
 almost invisible traces of aqueducts. They are supposed to 
 have belonged to the gardens of Aicinous. These gardens, 
 however, are placed by the antiquaries of Corfu in three differ¬ 
 ent spots. 
 
 To the S. of Corfu, beyond the high mountain of St. Panta- 
 leon, lies a lake full of fish. It is supposed to have been the 
 harbour of Chrysopolis, the scite of which is pointed out on its 
 western bank. But no traces are left of the glories of the Golden 
 City, in the description of which both Xenophon and Thucy- 
 
and the Ionian Islands. 
 
 61 
 
 dides are at a loss for words. Of the chain alone, which closed 
 the harbour, some remains were shewn to me. There are no traces 
 of the flourishing cities of Kassiopeia, Argiru, and Gardochi. 
 
 I was informed that repeated excavations had been made 
 under the old academy in the cities of Chrysopolis and Kasiopeia, 
 upon which a treatise had been written and deposited in the 
 library of St. Mark in Venice. Thus, this academy, consisting 
 of private individuals, did more than the present wealthy ad¬ 
 ministration, which seems studiously to avoid coming in con¬ 
 tact with any thing connected with antiquity. When I men¬ 
 tioned to an Englishman of rank, at Corfu, the propriety of 
 establishing an Ionian Museum in the capital, for the purpose 
 of collecting in it all that had been found, and was belonging 
 to the republic, he replied, “ we'have things of more importance 
 to do here, and, after all, what end would it answer?” 
 
 An interesting; treatise might be written on the causes of the 
 almost total absence of all traces of the ancient temples and 
 cities of Corfu. One of the chief causes, I suppose, to be the 
 early introduction of Christianity in the island, carrying along 
 with it that fury of destruction which had been every where so 
 fatal to the works of antiquity. The frequent desolations of the 
 island by the Goths, Vandals,|Saracens, and Turks; and earth¬ 
 quakes may, probably, have acted as secondary causes. 
 
 At different times various Greek inscriptions have been acci¬ 
 dentally found, which were deposited into the museum of Cavalier 
 Nani, at Venice, who had once been proveditore generale of 
 the republic in Corfu. None of these inscriptions mark the 
 epoch of their origin. Yet it is very probable that they belong 
 to the first ages of the republic of Coreyra. They express that 
 the gods were honoured on the island, that the first authority 
 of Corcyra was composed of fpur prytanei, that by a resolution 
 of the assembled people, several worthy strangers were elected 
 citizens of the republic, and that many other marks of distinc¬ 
 tion and privileges were conferred on them. 
 
 Some antiquities have been lately discovered, but they are of 
 the later Roman period; for instance, a small statue of marble 
 in the possession of Colonel Whitmore. 
 
 The coins of Corcyra, that have been found, generally bear a 
 female head, a Jupiter Agrais, Neptune, Bacchus, Apollo, 
 Hermes, or Hercules; the reverse generally represents symbols 
 indicating the fertility and abundance of the island, its strength, 
 naval power, or its great trp.de. For instance, a ship, an altar 
 with fruit, a garland of ivy, a bull, a tripod, a trident, a horse, 
 a cow suckling her calf, a grape, &c. All these symbols bear the 
 inscription KOPKYPAiON, or the abbreviation KGPKY. .. .KOp .. or 
 only the letter k. The medals, coined in honour ot men who 
 
62 
 
 Journey through Greece 
 
 have rendered services to the state, generally bear their head 
 crowned with laurel, with the galley on the reverse, and the 
 inscription KOP. .KTPiAftN. The medals of the Roman period 
 always bear the head of the emperor, or the great lady, in honour 
 of whom they were coined; and, on the reverse, one of those 
 symbols, most frequently a seated figure of Jupiter. 
 
 LETTER XVII. 
 
 Corfu , 
 
 However beautiful the works of nature are in Corfu, art 
 displays very little that is pleasing to the eye. My reader 
 will, therefore, forgive me, if I mention nothing concerning the 
 large houses, there named palaces, and the churches of the For* 
 tress and town. The smallest town in Italy is better supplied in 
 this respect, and it is surprising that the republic of Venice 
 built her government-buildings with such architectural insigni¬ 
 ficance, having had such excellent modes of ancient and mo¬ 
 dern architecture, as well as many good architects. The 
 edifices lately built by the English are only worthy of notice. 
 
 Near the harbour, behind the offices of the dogana (custom¬ 
 house,) which, likewise, owe their origin to the English, is the 
 new butcher’s-hall and market. It is a colonade forming a regular 
 square, with a small peristyle in the centre, combining, in admi¬ 
 rable proportions, utility with beauty. But in the centre of the 
 place, formed by the colonade, rises a small rotunda of equal co¬ 
 lumns, in two stories, supporting a dome. This clumsy piece of 
 architecture only forms a well, and spoils the whole. 
 
 After traversing the wretchedly paved streets of the city, 
 which leans against the side of a hill, you arrive, without hav¬ 
 ing met with any building of note, on the spacious and beauti¬ 
 ful place called the Esplanade. On the north-side of it, de¬ 
 tached from all other houses, rises the palace, which is now build- 
 ing by the English government for the lord-high-commissioner. 
 It is almost completed, only a little being wanted for the second- 
 floor, which is to support a dome. This edifice, worthy of a 
 ruling emperor, attracts for a moment, but, after a short ex¬ 
 amination, the faults of its architecture appear to a prac¬ 
 ticed eye. The principal building forms a regular square of two 
 stories, which displays both symmetry and simplicity; but, unfor¬ 
 tunately, the architect hit upon an idea of placing before this 
 massy edifice a colonade, nearly of the shape of a horse-shoe, 
 and formed of small Doric columns, which is concealed by 
 the large building that seems to rest upon it. The architect, 
 himself, seems to have felt the deformity of this construction, 
 
and the Ionian Islands• 63 
 
 and, therefore, placed at both ends of the colonade, where it 
 diverges, in two bent arms, large triumphal arches, serving at 
 the same time for gateways, to be ornamented with trophies 
 and other emblems. These arches are much higher than the 
 colonade ; nay, in comparison to it, they seem colossal. They 
 are intended as a medium between the principal building and 
 the puny colonade; but, being too large for the latter, they form 
 another architectural defect. The architect seems to have borne 
 in mind the colonade of St. Peter at Rome. But how noble and 
 grand is that work! and how well-proportioned to the church! 
 
 The internal division and construction of the building, how¬ 
 ever, is the most perfect, in its kind, I ever saw. The architec¬ 
 tural art has laboured here with the most admirable industry. 
 The stones are so closely united, that their joints can scarcely 
 be seen. It is a piece of truly English elegance. The whole is 
 built of an excellent free-stone, cut and finished at Malta, 
 ready for joining, before they are brought hither. I could not 
 learn why they did not use the beautiful grey-marble which 
 is found on Corfu. The expense of this palace, without the 
 finishing of the second-floor, without roof, statues, and other 
 ornaments, exclusive of fixtures and furniture, is said to have 
 amounted, by this time, to 83,000/. sterling. Its architect is 
 Colonel Whitmore. 
 
 On the west-side of the esplanade, to the right of the palace, 
 a row of fine houses with arcades, fronting the esplanade, have 
 been built during the English administration. Here is the British 
 hotel, the best, and indeed the only good inn in Corfu, fitted up in 
 the English style, and calculated for English purses. Here are, 
 also, the houses of the Austrian and Turkish consuls. Under 
 the arcades are billiard-rooms, coffee-houses, and reading-rooms. 
 
 In this place, also, stands the marble statue of the brave Count 
 Schulenburgh. It is of good workmanship, but of that quaint 
 appearance which prevailed at the beginning of the last century. 
 I he pedestal bears the following inscription: 
 
 MATTHIjE JOH4NNI, 
 
 COMITI A SCULEMBURGIS, 
 
 Sum mo terrestrium 
 Copiarum praefecto 
 Christianas Reipublicae 
 In Corey rae obsidione 
 Fortissimo assertori 
 Adhuc viventi, Senatus 
 Anno M,DCC,XVII. 
 
 The town of Corfu, the bulwark of Italy and of the east, is 
 covered in all directions, towards the sea and land, by forts 
 which, I was informed, were latterly supplied with every neces- 
 
64 
 
 Journey through Greece 
 
 even contain numerous cavalry, and besides being 
 j a line-of-battle ship and several frigates, seem to be 
 impregnable. 
 
 The prisons in the fortress, notorious from the times of the 
 Venetians, I did not inspect. Nor should I have been allowed to 
 see them, as they have been well-stocked during these last few 
 months. 
 
 Corfu used to be called the border of the E. This may have 
 been correct fifty years ago. The city is now completely Italian, 
 and oriental customs are only to be seen, such as they are in 
 Venice, as exotics. Italian manners prevail in the interior of 
 the houses, in the public amusements, and in the language; in 
 fact, they have been adopted by all, except the lower orders of 
 the people. We need only look at the coffee-houses, which play 
 so distinguished a part in Italy. Are they not till midnight the 
 rallying-point of both sexes ? 
 
 If you go into the interior of the families, you find as little 
 relish for society, and domestic pleasures as in Italy. All their 
 affections are turned abroad, towards public assemblies, the 
 theatre, promenades, and coffee-houses. A magic circle seems 
 drawn round the house, which a stranger can but rarely 
 pass. They will there submit, in private, to all possible priva¬ 
 tions, if, by such sacrifices, they can preserve splendour, or at 
 least a decent appearance in public. If we go to the villages, 
 which on Sundays form the rendezvous of the fashionable world, 
 we again meet with Italy. We only miss its charming women, 
 its Psyche and Niobe forms. We see the same rage for carriages 
 as in Florence, Home, and Naples, however wretched they may 
 be, and whatever domestic sacrifices they may require. I saw, 
 for instance, an ancient Corfiot Count, in a public ride, in an 
 old machine, drawn by one mule, gaudily dressed up; whilst 
 the driver, who had no seat, was obliged to run by the side of 
 the wretched vehicle. We see the same gracious nod to pedes¬ 
 trian acquaintances, with inconsistency in female dress. Gaudy 
 colours, awkwardness of appearance, without those delicate 
 efforts to please, so conspicuous in the ladies of Venice, Milan, 
 and Florence. 
 
 The English give a very unfavourable account of the inhabi¬ 
 tants of the city ; they endeavour, especially, to ridicule the 
 nobility and their foolish pride. But this nobility once pos¬ 
 sessed great merit; they have displayed bravery and civic virtues, 
 which are recorded in every page of their history; which, how¬ 
 ever, the British do not think worth knowing. They are cer¬ 
 tainly degenerated, like the nobility of all countries; Venice, in 
 particular, has spoiled them. N evertheless, they possess among 
 them some very respectable men, and particularly well-informed 
 
 sary, and 
 guarded b 
 
and the Ionian Islands. 05 
 
 families. But have the British nobility kept themselves free 
 from corruption? 
 
 The nobility and other respectable inhabitants compare the 
 English with the Venetians, Russians, and French, who, by their 
 pleasant manners, made themselves so agreeable to them, and 
 have been an ornament to their assemblies. Do they find the 
 same in the English ? I believe not. If then the natives try to 
 avoid their society; if they are particularly afraid of the friend¬ 
 ship and connection with those numerous military and naval 
 officers, who seem just to have issued forth from the forests of 
 old Albion—ought we to blame them ? Certainly not. Even 
 unprejudiced Englishmen are of the same opinion. Those gen¬ 
 tlemen would consider every place out of England as a Corfu. 
 
 But, in many respects, the city of Corfu has gained through 
 the British. It has become much cleaner and better lighted. 
 Houses, colonades, and palaces have been built; in the neigh¬ 
 bourhood of the city gardens, parks, and country-seats have 
 arisen. Many English shops have been opened, and for ready 
 cash every luxury and comfort of life may be procured. The 
 British only purchase what comes from old England. They even 
 extend this patriotism to the votaries of Aphrodite Pandaemas, 
 although I could not learn whether their custom-house officers 
 class them among the articles of luxury. Once a whole cargo 
 of these naiades were imported from the Thames. But they 
 might have had a better article of the kind in Sicily or Venice, 
 where the Englishmen purchase them and destroy the market 
 for other nations. 
 
 A great partiality for the Russians is still entertained in the 
 good families, which was fomented by the presence of a renowned 
 statesman in the Russian service, who had lately been here for 
 the purpose of visiting his native country. 
 
 Corfu not only gave birth to the minister Capo d’lstria, and 
 still contains many of that name, but likewise to Signora Isabella 
 Tastochi Albrici, a lady of learning, who wfote very ably on 
 several works of Canova, such as bas-reliefs and statues. 
 
 Among the modern scholars and artists of Corfu, I ought also 
 to mention Signor Mustoxidi, author of the modern history of 
 the island; Professor Bondioli, in whom Corfu lost a distin¬ 
 guished physician and scholar; and Signor Brossolendi, a good 
 sculptor. 
 
 I did not visit the theatre. It is only open during the 
 autumn and the carnival season, and only Italian comic operas 
 are performed in it. Rossini’s airs I also heard there in every 
 street. 
 
 Voyages and Travels, Vol. VIII. 
 
 K 
 
6$ Journey through Greece 
 
 LETTER XVIII. 
 
 Corfu , August. 
 
 Of the ionikon kpatos, inscribed on the new coin of the 
 republic, the Britannia, which is seated on the reverse, has left 
 nothing, and the once furious lion of St. Marc tamely crouches 
 under the feet of the fair virgin with Poseidon’s trident. 
 
 Before I proceed in my remarks, I must premise, that I by 
 no means mistake the distinction which ought to be made be¬ 
 tween that which the British government wishes to have done 
 for the Ionian islands, over which she has received the protecto¬ 
 rate and executive power, and that which the local government 
 at Corfu actually does. I here only speak of the latter. The 
 possession of the Ionian islands is always a financial loss to their 
 possessor, since, even if absolutely subjected, they do not yield 
 so much as they cost, if they are to be properly supported. Their 
 possession can, therefore, be important only in a political, mili¬ 
 tary, and mercantile point of view. 
 
 For this reason these islands must always be in the hands of 
 some great power. Such a power might establish in them a 
 government and administration, from which the neighbouring 
 Turks might learn how to govern and treat the Greek states 
 under their controul. This example ought to have been set by 
 the British government; and, although its policy might not have 
 found imitation in the first five years, it would have operated in 
 time, for it has been seen in Smyrna, Thessalonica, Adrianople, 
 Magnesia, and Constantinople, before the rising of the Greeks, 
 how much the Porte, in places that were not oppressed by cruel 
 pashas, considered the welfare of its Greek subjects, and what 
 great privileges, especially in trade, it granted to them above its 
 other subjects, particularly the Armenians. 
 
 If the Porte had viewed the Ionians under their new govern¬ 
 ment, contented, tranquil, and growing in opulence, it would 
 soon have adopted as much of the same system as might be con¬ 
 sistent with its own. I have been assured, in Corfu, that the 
 English government in 1815, at the time when the islands were 
 made over to them by treaty, had this object in view. If it 
 had been executed by the British agents, it is a question whe¬ 
 ther the Greeks, in 1821, would have had any just cause for 
 rising against the Porte. But what have the Ionian islands pre¬ 
 sented since that period ? A poor race of people, towards whom 
 no promise was kept,—a people who, only living by trade, have 
 been bound with the tightest fetters, and have not been allowed 
 to engage in any enterprise which might affect the interest of 
 British trade; at the same time teased by a host of English re- 
 venue-officers, who curtailed their rights of navigation and mo- 
 
67 
 
 and the Ionian Islands. 
 
 nopolised the use of their own harbours and bays in favour of 
 England,—a people who, often despised and ill treated by the 
 British officers, were forced to hate their government at Corfu, 
 and to try all means of getting rid of it. 
 
 Such a result could certainly not inspire the Porte with any 
 desire of imitation; and, mistrustful and timid as it is, it only 
 became more strict and severe against its own Greek subjects, 
 and the pashas became even more cruel. 
 
 According to the treaty by which they were delivered over, 
 the Ionians were to found a republic under the auspices of Great 
 Britain, whose protection was to be the security of indepen¬ 
 dence. An Ionian senate was to assist the British governor 
 by its counsels, and a legislative-assembly was to give them new 
 laws. 
 
 If, instead of this acknowledged republican form, the Ionian 
 islands had become England’s property, if they had become an 
 integral part of Great Britain, with the English constitution, 
 English rights, and English legislature, how happy then would 
 have been their lot, compared with their present state! 
 
 An English governor has arrived to rule in Corfu, with'the 
 same supreme power as did formerly the proveditore-generale 
 of St. Marc. In those times the Ionians could at least complain 
 and petition in Venice, so near to them, and frequently the 
 senate afforded them speedy protection and redress against the 
 Venetian officers. But now the distance from London is much 
 greater : it is so by nature, while the policy of government has 
 made it quite inaccessible. Those unhappy Ionians, who some 
 months ago addressed their grievances to England, now find re¬ 
 dress in the gaols of Corfu ! 
 
 Those who firmly expressed and defended principles unplea¬ 
 sant to the government of Corfu, were soon removed from the 
 senate. This was the fate of four of the ablest and most upright 
 men. Those who remained, together with their president, took 
 warning from this. Very soon the senate had no other wish but 
 those of the English governor, who, moreover, often expressed 
 them rather harshly. Hence, for some time past, the will of the 
 senate has not been distinguished from that of this ruler, and the 
 greatest harmony prevails! 
 
 The legislative assembly have not yet accomplished their task 
 of forming a code of laws for the Ionian islands, nor does it 
 appear they ever will accomplish it. 
 
 In the mean time, the government of Corfu has seized upon 
 all the branches of the executive administration, and placed 
 them under its controul, by putting them into the hands of 
 Englishmen, foreigners, or such of the islanders who yield im¬ 
 plicitly to the will of the English government. Thus the duties 
 
 K 2 
 
Journey through Greece 
 
 of customs in all the islands are managed in a manner which 
 leads to the belief that these islands are under martial-law. Woe 
 to the wretch who should undertake any thing against which 
 there should even be no prohibition, if it oppose the interest of 
 British commerce! It must be considered of what deep impor¬ 
 tance this is in so small a maritime state, which subsists only by 
 trade and navigation. 
 
 With the cruelty of barbarians they fall upon the Ionian ships 
 and boats, which are prohibited from seeking shelter against 
 the inclemencies of the weather in any bay of the islands, if they 
 do not purchase permission at a high price. 
 
 The courts of justice, which ought to be independent, are 
 only unrestrained where the interest of government is not at 
 stake. But, whenever this is concerned, they must, like all the 
 other branches of the executive and administration, serve as the 
 hand-maid of British interest, to which every thing must yield. 
 
 The Ionian senate being entirely dependant on the govern¬ 
 ment, the latter has all places at its disposal. Most of these are 
 given to foreigners, but never to lonians, of whom it is known 
 that they think for themselves, and have spirit and energy enough 
 to have a will of their own. 
 
 The most remarkable proceeding of government is that re¬ 
 specting the coinage. All the good silver and copper-coin in 
 the islands was bought up and sent to England. For this good 
 coin the finely coined oholi have been returned, but are said to 
 contain § less in copper than their nominal value in silver, com¬ 
 pared to the Turkish paras, the Neapolitan grane, and the Ro¬ 
 man bajocco.* Silver-coin has not been given to them at all; 
 it has only been promised. This is very troublesome and inju¬ 
 rious to the lonians in their transactions with the continent. 
 
 It was not till the present session of the British parliament 
 that the defects and faults of the Ionian government were exten¬ 
 sively and perspicuously laid open by Mr. Hume. A ministerial 
 member, of the lower-house, attempted to refute him, but with¬ 
 out success. Almost at the same time Signor Martilengo, and 
 several respectable Zantiots, addressed themselves, in a respect¬ 
 ful petition, to the King of England: they represented their 
 manifold grievances against the local government, and prayed 
 for redress. For xhis, Martilengo, and all those who had signed 
 
 * The following story is current in Corfu, for the truth of which, however, 
 I cannot warrant. In the budget of 1819, mention was first made among the 
 receipts of 60,000 Spanish piastres or talleri, which had been paid by the 
 islands for money sent from England; then this sum appeared among the 
 expenses, as money given by England to the islands; and, ultimately, these 
 60,000 piastres appeared in the shape of a debt of the Ionian islands for the 
 money sent from England! 
 
and the Ionian Islands . 
 
 m 
 
 With him, were immediately arrested as traitors, and sent to jail 
 in Corfu, where they still are; Martilengo only was afterwards 
 released to avoid disturbances in Zante. I do not believe that 
 the king and his ministers can know any thing of these pro¬ 
 ceedings. 
 
 Thus the poor Ionian republicans were denied what every 
 British subject may do in their parliament, and their attempt 
 was punished by the pro-consular government. 
 
 English residents are established in the islands of Santa Maura, 
 Thiaki, Cephalonia, Zante, and Kerigo. They naturally act in 
 the sense of the government on which they depend. There, in 
 their capacity of chief civil and military magistrates, they are 
 looked upon in the light of little sovereigns, and the royal Odys¬ 
 seus could hardly have had such authority on Thiaki as the 
 British resident, although only a captain. 
 
 The Greeks accuse this resident of oppressions and arbitrary 
 seizures. These reproaches I consider as the result of the people’s 
 discontent; since such vile conduct is not in the character of the 
 English. They also greatly blame the conduct of the govern¬ 
 ment with regard to the revolutionized Greeks. Certainly the 
 government has tried to prevent, suppress, and punish, every real 
 participation of the Ionian Greeks in the affairs of the neigh¬ 
 bouring continent; and the numerous ordonnances that have 
 been issued on this subject are before the public. 
 
 But this conduct of the government cannot justly be blamed, 
 if we rightly consider the political position which England has 
 assumed towards the Porte and the Greeks. It proclaimed, in 
 conjunction with the other high powers, the strictest neutrality 
 in their war; and, to preserve this, it was compelled to prohibit 
 the lonians from assisting the Greeks, and punish every trans¬ 
 gression on this point. In fact, in several cases the government 
 only did so, after a requisition of the Turkish government; 
 in which the cases of intermeddling on the part of Ionian 
 subjects were officially pointed out.—Thus far, I think, every 
 thing has been correct. But government, incensed at the con¬ 
 duct of the lonians, has began to hate the Greeks, and their 
 cause. This is blameable, however natural its origin. 
 
 The English government knows, from various discoveries, how 
 close is the connection of the Zantiots, Santa Mauriots, and 
 Corfiots, with the Greeks of the Morea, Rumeli, and Epirus, and 
 even with the brave Hetarists in Moldavia. It has intercepted 
 many letters, containing plans for the co-operation of the lonians, 
 for their liberation from the English, for the surprize of the 
 fortresses, and even the murder of the garrisons. It knows that, 
 from the moment the Greeks on the continent gain any decisive 
 and permanent advantages, it will be exposed to the enterprizes 
 
70 
 
 Journey through Greece 
 
 and attacks of the lonians. Nay, if even the government were 
 not acquainted with those combinations and plans through those 
 intercepted letters, it would have learnt it from the imprudent, 
 passionate expressions of the Zantiots and Corfiots themselves, 
 who are unable to conceal their rage and hatred against the go¬ 
 vernment, and frequently speak so violently against the English, 
 that it can only proceed from motives of prudence that the go¬ 
 vernment does not imprison them. 
 
 Is it then surprising that the English, in return, should hate the 
 Greek cause, and obstruct its progress ? This cause, which they 
 erroneously consider as the foundation of the disaffection and 
 hatred of the lonians against them. They forget that the lonians 
 would incline much less towards the Greeks, if they felt them¬ 
 selves happier as republicans under British government; nay, if 
 they were even less oppressed. This feeling is the source from 
 which originate the measures of the government of Corfu, and 
 which can certainly find no rational or just excuse. Thus the 
 government carefully suppressed all intelligence from the Morea, 
 Rumeli, Epirus; so that it is almost impossible, in those approx¬ 
 imate islands, to have any correct information respecting the 
 events, positions, marches, or strength of the armies or of the 
 fortresses occupied by the contending parties. 
 
 To the injury of the cause and the lonians, it allows the youth 
 of continental Greece, capable of bearing arms, to reside in the 
 islands; and, what is more than all, it affords assistance to the 
 Turks, by supplying them with provisions, arms, ammunition, 
 &c. by which it infringes upon its neutrality, and places itself 
 in a hostile position towards the Greeks. 
 
 It was, probably, in consequence of the above-mentioned dis¬ 
 coveries, that the government has taken measures for fortifying 
 and securing all strong points. Thence also the increase of 
 troops, the removal of the cavaliy into the forts, the great sup¬ 
 plies bought for the latter, &c. The lonians are wrong in com¬ 
 plaining of these measures. They cost them nothing ; but have 
 rather been useful to many of them. 
 
 The English in Corfu told me that these measures, on the 
 least commotion, would be followed by the general disarming* 
 of the islanders; which they considered the more necessary, as 
 these people are all excellent marksmen, and so expert in climb¬ 
 ing and jumping on their mountains and rocks, that they would 
 be almost a match tor English riflemen. 
 
 But we should, at the same time, duly consider and appreciate 
 the advantages which the English government afford to the 
 Ionian islands. 
 
 * This has since taken place. 
 
71 
 
 and the Ionian Islands. 
 
 At the head of these I shall mention the excellent police of the 
 islands and the adjoining seas,—a police which suffers none of 
 the former excesses. The pleasure which many Ionians take in 
 robbery, plunder, and murder,—a pleasure which they share 
 with their Greek brethren on the continent,—they are deprived 
 of by the British government; and, whenever it occurs, a rapid 
 form of judicature quickly puts an end to the criminal. The 
 harbours and bays of the islands are no longer the refuge of 
 pirates. 
 
 Since 1815 large sums have been spent by the British govern¬ 
 ment upon the Ionian islands, in draining marshes, in the erection 
 of new bridges, roads, houses, palaces, &c. such as the great 
 bridge of Argostoli, the butchers’ hall, the palace of the govern¬ 
 ment at Corfu. These fabrics have cost the islands nothing, and 
 tend to their advantage or improvement, besides bringing money 
 into the country. The taxes in the islands must be trifling, 
 since the English government takes nothing from them; and the 
 whole revenue is said to be employed in defraying the expences 
 of the internal administration. The English government pays its 
 own troops, and keeps them in barracks, which, for the most 
 part, it has built. In the same manner, all the expenses of keep-* 
 ing old fortifications in order, or building new ones, are defrayed 
 by the government. The Ionians are not subject to any military 
 service, conscription, or recruiting. 
 
 The English officers, civil as well as military, together with 
 the well-paid troops, amounting to between 3,000 and 6,000 
 men, put considerable sums into circulation. Many tradesmen 
 in the towns, who were formerly poor, have in consequence ac¬ 
 quired some property; but the merchants, sailors, &c. who form 
 the greater part of the population, groan under the British com¬ 
 mercial restraints. 
 
 Corfu has gained much through the English in pleasantness 
 and comfort; and the towns of the other islands have also had 
 their share of those improvements. 
 
 Eight engineers are now engaged on the survey of Corfu. 
 Their labours, of which I have seen some, for their elegance and 
 correctness do honour to British genius. This survey is likewise 
 conducted at the expense of the English government; and it is 
 afterwards to be extended to the other islands. It is to be wished 
 that on this occasion the government would lay aside its proud 
 indifference towards antiquity, and undertake and encourage 
 diggings on interesting spots. It might, at least, put a stop to 
 the vandalism of its officers. 
 
 I now return my sincere thanks to the English residents and 
 other officers in the Ionian islands, for their politeness and kind¬ 
 ness to me personally. I must acknowledge that I have not 
 
72 
 
 Journey through Greece , S?c. 
 
 suffered from them any of those municipal vexations which are 
 so annoying to every stranger, but, especially, to the scientific 
 traveller. It depended only on myself to profit by the kind as¬ 
 sistance which the English authorities so often offered to me. I 
 must also observe, that the being a Saxon was every where a 
 recommendation among these authorities; and I was often gra¬ 
 tified by seeing their stern features relax, when they saw my 
 country named in my passport. 
 
 LETTER XIX. 
 
 Venice, September, 
 
 About the end of August the Austrian packet, II Fenice , an 
 armed brig, arrived at Corfu. As there was immediately a con¬ 
 siderable number of passengers for Venice, she only remained a 
 few days in the harbour, after which she sailed with a favourable 
 wind. 
 
 This vessel is well fitted up, and affords, at various prices, the 
 best accommodation, with cheap board. We had some agree¬ 
 able Englishmen with us, one of whom distinguished himself by 
 his great loquacity, a quality otherwise very rare among his 
 countrymen. We had, also, on-board several young Greeks 
 from Janina, Smyrna, and Hydria, who were going to Paris for 
 their studies. They saw nothing singular in this at a moment 
 like the present, and did not think they were called upon to bear 
 arms in the defence of their country. Nay, they considered it 
 an act of prudence to go abroad in order to avoid trouble. 
 
 This voyage along the islands and the eastern continent, which 
 was now and thefi interrupted by calms, produced nothing 
 worth recording. Safely arrived at Venice, we were shut up in 
 the old lazaretto to keep quarantine, which, by special favour, 
 only lasted eighteen days. 
 

 

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