Ulrich Middeldorf HAa $• Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2016 https://archive.org/details/pictureofitalybeOOmill £ PICTURE OF ITALY; BEING * . % A GUIDE TO THE Antiquities* ant Curiosities OF THAT Classical and Interesting Country ; CONTAINING SKETCHES OF MANNERS, SOCIETY, AND CUSTOMS; AND AN ITINERARY OF DISTANCES.'IN POSTS AKD ENGLISH MILES, BEST INNS, &C* WITH A MINUTE DESCRIPTION, OF ROME, FLORENCE , NAPLES, VENICE* And *heir Environs . TO WHICH ARE PREFIXED, DIRECTIONS TO TRAVELLERS; PRINTED FOR SHERWOOD, NEELY % JQ NE& 1815 . PREFACE Out mol , moi quijadis (Pune voix solennelle Jurat de visiter ces beaux champs , ce beau del Oil Virgile a chante comme a peint Raphael, J’iraiy fen jure encore, firai voir cet asile Oil Raphael peignit comme a chante Virgile. Delille. The country of Cesar, of Cicero, of Ho- race, and of Virgil: the land which gave birth to a Michael Angelo, a Raphael, a Titian, a Dante, an Ariosto, and a Tasso, must ever possess claims to the admiration of the world ! Italy, at once the seat of valour, and the cradle of the sciences and the arts, awakens all those classical recollections which formed the delight of our youth, and still remain, in their native freshness, as a solace for declining years. In Italy, temples, triumphal arches, aque- ducts, ways, whole towns, exhibit to our view, at every step, the grandeur and un- rivalled magnificence of the antient 'masters of the world; and continually remind the traveller of those august names which ius- a 2 1 ? PREFACE. lory has consecrated to immortality ; of those great men, whom Italy has, in every age, produced : all conspire to heighten the pleasure he receives from a delicious cli- mate, a mild and balmy air, and a rich and fertile country. The returning peace having induced so many persons again to visit Italy, a Picture of that interesting country, as it is , can- not fail of being acceptable to the public, and more particularly, as there is no similar work on the subject in existence. Most of our books of travels are written rather to amuse the indolent, than instruct the ac- tive ; and those few which contain actual information, are either too voluminous or too defective to be of any use. A great book is, really, a great evil to a traveller. Every prudent person, it has been well observed, endeavours to bring his baggage within as narrow a compass as possible : he will, therefore, scarcely be per- suaded to encumber himself with a multi- tude of incomplete works, each of which is to supply the defects of the rest ; or with a book in many volumes, however its reputa- tion may be established : but if he can meet with one volume of a portable size, which in general seems likely to yield him the in- formation he wants; he may, perhaps, be induced to give it a place in his port- manteau. Such were the views that guided PREFACE. V the author in writing- this work, which, he trusts, will be found to answer every useful purpose. The plan of the following' guide embraces the usual grand tour of Italy, and is f ally- developed in our Introduction. The differ- ent routes leading to Italy are decribed at length ; and the account of the magnificent new road over the Simplon, now appears for the first time in an English dress. This Picture of Italy will be found, not merely a useful pocket-companion abroad, but an entertaining friend to converse with at home . Besides our notices of antiquities and curio- sities, the general reader will, doubtless, find much amusement in perusing the sketches of manners, society, peculiar cus- toms, and religious ceremonies ; as well as an account of the trade, commerce, manu- factures, and natural productions of this favoured country. Here also will be seen all the valuable parts of an Itinerary, with- out its dryness ; such as distances in posts and English miles, time in performing the journey, cross-roads, best inns, &c. The Introduction contains every requi- site information respecting travelling in Italy ; as Post regulations, different monies, weights and measures ; a table of Italian time ; heights of the most elevated moun- tains ; expenses of living in Italy ; hints lo C ontinental Travellers, Sic. Sic. VI PREFACE. The Dialogues in English, Prench 3 and Italian, are reprinted, with corrections, from the last edition of Mad. de Genlis’s Manuel du Voyageur, and will, it is hoped, prove useful to the traveller. The author has not always trusted to his own personal observations, but has availed himself of every light which he could de- rive from men as well as books. He has to thank several respected friends for much valuable and original information ; besides which he begs to make his acknowledg- ments to the late lamented Mr. Eustace’s highly esteemed Classical Tour in Italy ; the Voyage Ilistorique , Chorographique , et Philosophique dans les Principales Villes de TItalie , par P. Petit-Radel, 8 vo. 3 tomes , Pails, 1815; an excellent book, written by a philosopher, and a man of taste ; and also to the Itineraire d’ltalie , Svo. Milan, 1814. The embellishments of this work are from the pencil of Pinelli , a living artist of the first celebrity CONTENTS PAGE, Introduction. Extent and Divisions of Italy— Language— Plan of a Tour in Italy— -laving in Italy — Journey with the Vetturini — Manner of travelling Post in Italy — Coins, Weights, and Measures — Population — Heights of Mountains — Hints to Continental Travel- lers — Swiss and Italian Carriers — Passports —Messrs. Herries and Co’s Circular Ex- change Notes* *ix — li Dialogues in English, French, and Italian 7 Chapter I. Routes leading to Italy* 1 Section 1. Passage of the Simplon 2 2. Passage of Mont Cenis 25 3. Passage of the Grand St. Ber- nard • • • 38 4. Passage of St. Gothard • 45 5. Pvoute to Genoa by Provence • • • • 56 6. Route, by Germany and Tyrol, ^ to Verona 77 Chapter II. Description of Turin 78 Chapter III. Description of Genoa gg Chapter IV. Departure from Genoa, Description of Pavia and Milan • • • 99 Chapter V. From Milan to Bologna, and account of that place * ... .128 Chapter VI. From Bologna to Rome 147 Chapter VII. Description of Rome and its environs ......179 Chapter VIII. From Rome to Naples, and description of that city and its environs; return to Rome • • • -2 75 Chatter IX. From Rome to Florence, and account of that city - 367 Chapter X. From Florence to Leghorn by Pisa, and re- turn by Lucca and Pistoja ; Journe} 7 to Bo- logna, and thence to Venice *409 Chapter XI. Description of Venice* • .*420 Chapter Xll. From Venice to Vicenza, Verona, Mantua, Brescia, and Bergamo ; return to Verona • *458. Chapter XIII. From Verona to England by Tyrol, Ger- many, and Belgium • * * * 467 Index o 479 Directions to the Binder for placing the Plates . Tomb of the Gladiators at Pompeii • ••.-. To face the Title Map of Italy Page 1 Plan of Pome . 179 Driving wild Cattle to Rome • 188 The Serenade — Costume of Rome 2b 9 Costume of Cerbara • • • • 274 Neapolitan Gens d’Armes 364 Errata • Page 7, line 8, for Simplon read Milan 86, line 4, for aitnonti read at moni 145, line 19 from the bottom, for veriable read veritable 370, line 12 from the bottom, for d'il gni vino e ore, read d’egTii vino e 'll re INTRODUCTION. ITALY is about 600 miles in length ; its breadth in some places near 400, in others not above 25. On the N.N.W. and N.E. it is bounded by France, Swit- zerland, the country of the Grisons and Germany ; on the east by the Gulf of Venice; and on the south and west by the Mediterranean. It was formerly the seat of the Roman Empire, and afterwards that of the Papal Hierarchy. Italy is no longer divided into a great number of states. Naples has been restored to the son of the late Ferdinand. Genoa has been ceded to the King of Sardinia , who has also been reinstated in his possession of Piedmont and Savoy. The Aus- trians have taken possession of Venice and all the rest of Italy , the Ecclesiastical States only excepted, which, with some addition of territory, lately in pos- session of Naples, has been restored to the Holy Father . The air of Italy is very different, according to the situations of the different countries. In those of the north side of the Appenines , it is more temperate, but in the south it is very warm. That of the Campagna of Rome and the Ferrarese is less wholesome ; but in the other parts it is generally pure, dry and healthy. Italy produces a great variety of wines, and the best oil in Europe; excellent silk in abundance and the finest fruits. The mountains not only contain mines of iron, lead, alum, sulphur, marble of all sorts, ala- baster, jasper, porphyry, &c. but also gold and silver. Wine, oil, perfumes, fruits and silks are the principal articles of exportation. X Introduction . Italian language — No person intending to make the tour of Italy should be totally ignorant of its mel- lifluous language ; but as it is physically impossible that it should be learned as soon as French, to which we are*more accustomed from our proximity of situa- tion, it is necessary that a more early attention should be paid to that of Ifealy than is usual. Some persons have made an attendance at the Opera a medium of instruction for this purpose ; but in this, as in all other cases where knowledge'is to be acquired, attention, regularity and perseverance, even with very mean materials, will do much, very much, probably to the astonishment of even those who exert these qualities. As for learning Italian merely as a dead language, or that of books, the traveller in so doing would but lose his time ; even the dialogues prefixed to the pre- sent work, committed to memory and pronounced to, the best of his ability, would be of more real utility than if he could construe the whole of Tasso or Ariosto without hesitation. And if it be his design to learn Italian in Italy, a good ear and close attention will be very necessary to save time and facilitate his progress. The poetry of Italy has a peculiar sweetness in it, but among the Italians so much does their poetry differ from their prose, that there are not only sen- tences, but a multitude of particular words, that never enter into common discourse. They have such a dif- ferent turn and polishing for poetical use, that they drop several of their letters, as is the custom of the French in pronouncing prose. For this reason, as Mr. Addison has observed, “ the Italian Opera seldoiii sinks into a poorness of language ; but amidst all tire meanness and familiarity of the thoughts, has some- thing beautiful and sonorous in the expression.” Ita- lian is best learned by the medium of the French ; Veneroni’s Grammar, by Zotti, is the only French and Italian Grammar known in London. Plan of a Tour in Italy. — Various plans have been laid down for making the tour of Italy , but that which has been generally pursued is previously to visit xi 'Plan of a Tour in Italy . Paris , according to the indications pointed out by M. Tronchet, in his “ Picture of Paris.” The plan chalked out by a recent writer (Sir R. C. Hoare) in his “ Hints to Travellers in Italy,” very nearly coin- cides with that pursued in the present “ Picture of Italy,” and may be recommended as pointing out the best and pleasantest route through Italy. I would, says he, leave England the end of April and devote the month of May to Paris, where a month, well em- ployed, would amply satisfy the curious. From Paris I would proceed, through Lyons, to Geneva , or rather to Secheron , where there is an excellent hotel on the banks of the lake, and where every necessary assist- ance could be procured to facilitate a tour through the different Cantons of Switzerland. June, July, and August might suffice for viewing the picturesque scenery of Helvetia , and the Alps might be traversed early in September. Since the late system of spolia- tion has taken place in Italy, the connoisseur in paint- ing and sculpture may be gratified in a few days both at Turin and at Milan : but the artist, as well as the lover of picturesque scenery, should by all means avail himself of this fine season of the year, when every vineyard smiles and every villa teems with hospitality, to make an excursion into the Val D’Aoste , and visit the Lago Maggiore , La go Lugano , and La go di Como. By the beginning of October at least, the tourist may continue his southern progress, passing through Piacenza , Parma and Modena , to Bologna . Parma still possesses some pf the fresco works of Cor- regio uninjured. Florence will probably detain the traveller some time, even though its tribune is no longer graced with the Venus de Medici , or its gallery ennobled by the family of the unfortunate Niobe. Much interesting and classical ground will be tra- versed, and many fine towns visited in the intervening space between Rome and Venice. Here will be ano- ther opportunity of visiting the Cascade of Terni : the traveller from hence will continue on the same Introduction > xii road he came to Rome, as far as Foligno , and from thence through Serravalle and Macerata to Loretto ; and from thence perhaps to Ancona , Fano , Pesaro and Rimini . Between Cesena and Savignano , he may cross the Rubicon, now a trifling rivulet. From Bo- logna the traveller may proceed through Cento and thence to Ferrara', where a vessel may be hired for Venice. From Venice two ways of return will present themselves, the shortest through the Venetian terri- tory and the cities of Padua , Vicenza, Verona, Ber- gamo, Brescia and Tyrol : the other is through Trieste, Carniola, Carinthia and Stiria to Vienna ; from thence he will naturally direct his route through Prague to Dresden, Leipsic, Berlin, &c. The home- ward track will then lead him to Magdeburg, Hanover , Osnaburg, Aix-La-Chapelle, Liege and Spa, Brussels , Ghent and Ostend 1 . Those who have a winter at com- mand, may choose a more extended tour in Italy, where eVen a town is the most eligible for summer quarters, as the intense heat of* an Italian sun would prove a total bar to any out-door amusements in the country. Siena is by some recommended as a most eligible summer residence, having a clear and healthy atmosphere. Excursions may be made in the interim to Leghorn , Pisa and Lucca, or by taking a boat at Pionibino, to the Island of Elba, once the seat of the celebrated Napoleon . The excessive heat of the weather being abated, the traveller will probably think of fixing his winter quarters either at Rome or Naples. Either the Arezzo or Siena road will convey him hack to the Imperial city, because there is no other practicable route for a carriage. From Rome to Na- ples the learned author of “ Hints to Travellers” has pointed out a , line highly interesting and novel, by following the courses of the Via Latina through Ag- nani , Ferehtino, Aquino, and &. Germano . From 1 See these routes pointed out ami the places described in Mr. Campbell’s Traveller’. Complete Guide through helgrmu, Holland and Germany , xiii Plan of a Tour in Italy , thence he will proceed through Teano and join the Via Appia before it enters Capua. He has also traced out the course of the Via Appia from Rome to Be - neventum , and caused correct drawings of the nu- merous and interesting monuments, which accompany the Via, to be made by an eminent artist. If the season admits, the road from Florenceto Rome, by way of Perugia, is recommended in preference to that of Siena. At Arrezzo there are some remains of the antient Atretium. The antient Crotona is at a small distance from Cortona , and a singular stone building in its neighbourhood, called La Grotta di Bittagora . On the way to Perugia, the tourist will pass the lake of Thrasymene, where the Roman ‘Consul Flaminius was defeated by Hannibal At Spello he will see the remains of an amphitheatre. At Alle Vena, there is a beautiful little chapel. Spoleto will again revive the memory of Hannibal, and near the city of Terni is the precipitous brink of the foaming* Velino. At Narni, the ruins of a stupendous bridge mark the magnificence of Augustus. At Otricoli , the vestiges of the antient Otricnlum remain, and passing through the romantic town of Civita Castellana, he will soon behold the proud dome of the Vatican and the streams of the Tiber meandering through the vale. Mr. Eustace advises the traveller to pass the Alps' early in the autumn, thus to avoid the inconvenience of travelling in winter or cold weather ; and without approaching France to proceed to Brussels , thence to Liege , Spa, Aix-La-Chapelle, Cologne, Bonne , and along the banks of the Rhine to Coblentz, Mentz and Strasburg : there cross the Rhine to Manheim ; tra- verse the Palatinate, the territories of Wirtemberg , Bavaria and Saltzburg ; enter the defiles of Tyrol, and passing through Inspruck and Trent, turn to Bas~ sano and Maestre, from whence he may send his car- riage by land to Padua, and embark for Venice® From Venice he may go by water up the Brenta to Padua, visit Arcqua, Ferrara and Bologna ; then fol- lowing the Via Emilia to Forli , proceed to Ravenna b XIV Introduction , and Rimini, make an excursion to San Marino ; ad- vance forward to Ancona, and continue his journey by Loretto , thence over the Appenines to Foligno, Spoleto and Term , and so follow the direct road through Civita Castellana to Rome.” . On the other hand, persons travelling from Suabia or the Country of the Orisons to Venice , will find this the shortest route, viz. the passage of the Splugen, though nobody, should attempt it when the avalanches are expected to fall. This passage is much more fa- tiguing than that of St. Gothard ; (see chap. i. p. 15.) the wildness and sublimity of the prospects, however, compensate for every difficulty ; they present at once to the astonished traveller, the Inferno of Dante and the Chaos of Milton. To travellers who might choose to winter in the south of France without proceeding immediately to Italy, Hyeres or Nice 1 offers the best winter climate: others there are who advise the going to Italy by sea , in a vessel bound to Leghorn, particularly to invalids and consumptive persons, and passing the winter at Pisa, in preference to Nice, Massa, Florence, Rome, or Naples. One caution however is always indispensably necessary to invalids, u never to sit, stand, or walk in the sun, with- out being defended by a parasol ; always to prefer walking on the shady side of a street ; and never to go out in a strong north-east wind.” This caution ap- plies to every part of Italy. Fiesole , near Florence, almost alwaj's enjoys a fresh breeze from noon till sun set; and this is besides a situation not liable to those dangerous vicissitudes from heat to cold, so common in the populous cities of Italy, and particularly bane- ful to weak lungs. Even at Naples , the wind is apt to be piercing ; but at Pisa , the air is uniformly soft, while the mountains, which rise like an amphitheatre, screen it from every wind except the sea breezes. 1 For a description of Ilyeres and Nice, and flieir comparative claims to the attention of the valetudinarian, >ve refer to our first chapter, pp. 59, 65. XV Plan of a Tour in Italy . Switzerland, in which some persons prolong their vi- sits, is one of the most unequal climates in Europe, There are many very cold days here, even in spring and autumn. Carrara is strongly recommended to persons who require a bracing summer climate ; and the plain of Sorrento is a cool, healthy and beautiful summer situation for those who wish to be near Naples. A prudent person, not ambitious of passing for an Englishman of fashion, may certainly live very reason - ably in Italy. At Turin, Milan, Florence, Siena, and many other capital towns, such persons may enjoy every convenience of life, except a carnage, for one hundred and fifty pounds sterling per year, including dress, &c. &c. A single gentleman or lady, indeed, we are persuaded, might live very comfortably in al- most any part of Italy," France, Switzerland, or Ger- many, with a clear income of one hundred pounds. They would soon be admitted to much agreeable so- ciety, and partake many little luxuries and amuse- ments, for a sum of money which constitutes little more than penury in England, and almost banishes a person from the sweet interchange of social endear- ments. At Venice , 0 which however is not the cheapest place in Italy to live in, a stranger may hire a good room for two or three livres 1 a day ; and for five livres he may dine well : or he may provide himself with a gen- teel apartment and dinner for . from nine to twelve livres a day. Wood for fuel will cost him about one livre and a half. The wages of a man servant is twen- ty-four livres a month, if he board him : or from se- venty to ninety livres, if he is at board wages. The hire of a gondola is five livres a day : but .if he keeps one constantly, he pays thirty livres a month for the gondola, and about ninety for the gondolier. A single man therefore may live at Venice and keep a servant for a hundred pounds a year : or, he may live, and keep his gondola, which is equivalent to a 1 A livre is about five pence English. b 2 Xvi Introduction . carriage in any other place, for eighty pounds a yeaf. In this case he may use the gondolier as a servant. A man servant, board wages included, is about twenty guineas a year. If he lives in a genteel style, keeping his servant and gondola, his expences will be about one hundred and fifty pounds. To these he must add clothes, theatres, coffee-house, &c., which are not, however, expensive at Venice. If he eat at home, which he will scarcely do, unless he be with a family, a cook will have fifteen livres a month, if she eat in the house ; or from fifty to sixty livres, if she be at board wages. This may serve to give some faint idea how a tra- veller may live in Italy, who does not wish to make a useless parade, but will take the trouble of inquiring into the real value of things, ^nd not suffer himself to be imposed upon. Journey tvith the Velturinu This plan takes the route of Mont Cenis, Piedmont, the late kingdom of Italy, and the Ecclesiastical States, and returns through Etruria and Tuscany, in French leagues , one of which is rather less than three English miles. FROM LEAGUES. Chambcry to Planesses. 5 Aiguebelle St. J ean de Maurienne ...... 5 FROM LEAOUES. St. Michel *3 Modane • 3 Lanslebourg It will occupy the whole of a forenoon to ascend Mont Cenis . It is usual to dine at Novalezza and sleep at Bucholino f distant % leagues. FROM LEAGUES. St. Ambrose 4 FROM LEAGUES, La Canonica • • 6 ^ Coccaria y erC eil Sedriano 9 Verona 5 Castel Bello 6^ Journey 'with the Vetturinu XVH. Passing through Vicenza they sleep at Padua. from leagues. Mira 4 Through Fusina to Venice* - • • 2 Returning from Venice, the same day 8 Moncelesi ..........4 Itovigo 5 Ferrara 7 Armarosa . r........ 7 Bologna y. 3 FROM LEAGUES. Imola • Faenza 3 Forli ..3| Cesenna 5 Rimini 6^ Galolica Fano Sinigaglia * 5 ■6 Proceeding to Ancona it is necessary to take pro- visions, the voituriers on account of a mountain, on this side of that place, never proceed within a quarter of a mile of Ancona. FROM LEAGUES. Siena 4 X Poggibonzi - • b\ Castel Fiorentino 41. Montelupo • • • • 4i Florence 5 Casa N uova 4 Foligno * 4 Spoleto 9 From hence to a lonely house upon a mountain ..*3 Terni 4f Narni ‘ 3 Citta Castellana .7 Rignagno 3 La V archetta 6 Rome 2 At Rome it is necessary to take post and go at once to Naples, to avoid the wretched inns, and the hazard of being robbed by the banditti of both states, that infest these roads. FROM LEAGUES. Loretto 7 Macerata 5^ Tolentino 3| Ponte della Trave.. 5 Serravalle ....4 Itoiiie to Beccano 6 Monterosa .3 Ronciglione .....4 Viterbo 4 Bolsiena 6 S.. Lorenzo 2 To the foot of the mountain of Radicofani 6 Turiniere ...3 St. Quirico 3f FROM LEAGUES. Giretto 6 1 Pietra Mala 6 Scarica l’Asino >....... i .. - 2 Pianore 3 Bologna 3 Modena .................. 7,2 FROM Reggio- ......... Parma Borgo Sandolino > Cade Piacenza ■ Cartel $. Giovanni. b 3 leagues, 5 5 .... .5 h ....... 3 4 XV11I Introduction • FROM LEAGUES. Bronio 4 Yiguerra 4 Tortona 3 Novi 4 FROM Viaggio Campo Maroue Genoa tEAGUESd ...ii..4 4 4 If the traveller wishes to visit Pisa i Leghorn, Lucca } &c. the vetturini will eonvey him FROM LEAGUES. Castel Fiorentino to la Scala 4^ Formazetti • * 4 Pisa • * 3 FROM tEAGUFS. Lucca .... * .♦ • .4 Pistoja 6| Florence - 6-1 A boat goes from Pisa to Leghorn every day. 0 Manner of Travelling Post in Italy. There are two modes of travelling in Italy: the ordinary mode is the dearest in Lombardy, Pied- mont, Milan, and the Venetian territory; but in Lombardy, upon certain conditions, permission is given to take post horses at a reduced price ; these conditions express that the postillion shall not be obliged to gallop nor to travel after sun-set, without being paid the full price of the post. This is what is called Cambiatura , and is to be obtained in any of the large places. It is good to get this permission before hand, and expedite it by favour of your banker to ther place from whence you intend to set out. In Northern Italy the post prices are as follow : PAOLI. 1 Chaise-horse > 5 1 Saddle-horse- .............. -5 1 Postillion .*• 3 1 Groom 1 1 VaJ“t de chambre 0 1 Servant in livery ............ Q In Southern Italy. PAOLI. 1 Chaise-horse 4 1 Saddle-horse 3 1 Postillion 3 1 Groom *• 1 Valet de chambre 0 1 Livery-servant .... .0 SOLDI. 15 12 ' soldt. 15 12 Travelling Post in Italy . xix Naples . — For two chaise-horses, each post, eleven carlini; for one saddle-horse five carlini; fora royal post five carlini and a half, and three carlini to each postillion. In the kingdom of Italy in general, two chaise-horses cost eight livres, twelve and a half sous, or a derrthsequin, each post ; and one saddle-horse four livres. In the Venetian territory, for two chaise- horses one florin each post ; and half' a florin for a saddle-horse* There is no end to the demands made for drink in Italy. The ostler is sure to demand a contribution; and even a boy, who takes the office upon himself to throw some water over your wheels, will ask a douceur. But these importunities are best resisted at first. According to an arrangement respecting the new road from Florence to l\Jodena , a courier pays six paoli, or pauls, each post, for two horses. Every other traveller pays eight pauls for a postillion's horse, and for a spare horse, four. The payment of a postillion’s guides in Italy, called la Benandala , is one paoli per post, for each horse, even though the post should not be complete, the route from Pistoja to Piastre excepted, and from Piano Asinatico to Bosco Lungo ; where the traveller is compelled to take three horses, even tor a two* wheeled carriage. One or two persons, with two hun- dred weight of baggage, take two horses ; four per- sons, with double that weight, take four horses, or the same for three hundred weight and two domestics ; but if the baggage exceeds this quantity, not stipu- lated for in the agreement made at first setting out, five or six horses must be taken, and the payment of the guides is proportioned to the number of horses. The post is always paid on leaving the towns in Italy, at Turin excepted. The roads in Lombardy are level, and in general good, except when the soil, naturally fat, is moistened by rain. Every traveller who has not a Sedie , viz. a half covered, two-wheeled carriage, capable of holding two persons and their large trunks behind, and which may be hired at Ala } on the road XX Introduction . from Trent , would do well to traverse Lombardy , with the Vetturini, who have in general very commodious Sedies, At Bologna ■ it is advisable to purchase one of these carriages, and then take post horses ; though if people do not chopse to engage in this expense, there are plenty of carriers to be met with on the road. They do not go very rapidly, because the country is moun- tainous ; but this affords opportunities for inspecting the scenery and curiosities on the road. The Vet - turini never go above thirty Italian miles per day, with a carriage of two or four wheels, and drawn by horses or mules ; some of them will take three hundred weight of baggage. The expense, upon the whole, is very nearly equal to that of travelling post ; how- ever, the drivers of these are so sensible of their im- portance, that they will not lower their demands, even when they are returning. As for return carriages, they are very difficult to be had in Italy, because there is always an understanding between the drivers and the innkeepers. If procured for you by a friend or acquaintance, the price is, including the drink- money, a Dutch ducat per day, or from three to four rix dollars, whether he carry one, two, or three per- sons. Persons going to Italy may agree with VeU turini at Lyons or Geneva , to carry them to the ex- tremity of the kingdom of 'Naples; but they must never forget to make their bargain beforehand. If they are not too fond of good living, they cannot do better than agree with the Vetturini for eating and drinking. The Piedmontese carriers are esteemed the best in Italy ; they are brought up to it from their youth, and have good carriages ; besides, being used to travel in the mountains, people may place confi- dence in them for safety. Not to be the dupe of the Italian V etturini in general, an agreement in writing is indispensably necessary , and it should be 'witnessed, by a public notary ; nor should any person advance more than one half of the sum agreed for ; and expressly insert in the agreement, that the whole of the sum, XXI Travelling Post in Italy* even la Imona memo, shall not be forthcoming, but at the happy termination of the journey, and this ac-* cording to the good conduct of the driver during the time. Bad as most of the Italian inns are, there are many good ones; and it must be acknowledged that the presence of the French , during the last twenty years, has contributed much to their cleanliness and improve- ment. It is always usual after having made an agree- ment with the innkeeper, to procure a map of the country, a plan of the place, and a book to serve as a guide. The various routes by which Italy may be entered, are all described in the present work. In cities they generally charge a stranger so much a head for each meal, and for the apartment besides, accord- ing to the number of rooms. They usually ask much more than they will take, and seldom make any con- science of getting as much as they can, especially of an Englishman. The great improvements made in the condition of the Inns, are not the only advantages derived from the French in Italy. The dissolution of monasteries and religious houses, and the appropriation of their mag- nificent, but long neglected libraries to purposes of useful instruction ; the making of new roads, and clearing the old ones from banditti ; the use of rever- berators for lighting the cities and principal towns ; and the wise regulations of the police, which have almost effectually sheathed the stiletto, and rendered assassination of rare occurrence these, and a thou- sand other minor advantages (not to mention the pre- servation and discovery of many fine vestiges of anti- quity), will be long felt and acknowledged in Italy. Travelling Post in Piedmont, Liguria , Parma , and Piacenza . According to the last tariff, the post-masters are authorized to demand of travellers one franc and fifty xxii Introduction . centimes for horse and post, and sixty-five centimes for postillion and post. Every courier, not accompanying a carriage, must have a mounted postillion, to act as a guide. One postillion is not allowed to conduct more than three couriers ; if there are four couriers,' there must be two postillions. Carriages . — As many horses must be paid for as there are persons who go with a carriage (without any distinction of age), either inside, outside, on the coach-box, or behind, whether the horses be attached to it or not. Two-wheel carriages with poles, as well as cabriolets with four wheels, must be conducted by a postillion, with not less than two horses. If there be three passengers, they must have three horses and a postil- lion ; but four horses are to be paid for. Three pas- sengers are to be driven with three horses, and five are to be paid for. Post-masters are bound to attach the third horse to two-wheeled carriages with two passengers ; but in case of an agreement made to attach but two, they can only demand half price for the horse not used. Carriages upon four wheels, having but one passen- ger, with or without a trunk, vache , or portmanteau, must have three horses attached, and be driven by a postillion. Two passengers with a vache , trunk, or portmanteau, must have three horses and a postillion ; two persons with one vache, trunk, or portmanteau between them, or with two of them, must be conducted by a postillion, and though drawn by three horses, pay for four. Three passengers with one vache , trunk, or port- manteau among them, must have a postillion and three horses, and pay for four. Three passengers with a trunk, vache , and a port- manteau, or having two of these things only, must have two postillions and four horses, and pay for five. Four passengers with or without a trunk, vache, or Travelling Post in Italy . xxm portmanteau, must? be drawn by six horses, and con- ducted by two postillions. Four-wheeled carriages with a pole, carrying one or two passengers, must have four horses and two postillions ; with three passengers, two postillions and six horses; the same with four and five persons, though seven are to be paid for. With six passengers they must have three' postillions and eight horses, pay- ing for nine. Relative to the loading of horses and carriages, couriers are not to carry any thing beyond the saddle- bags ; portmanteaus must be carried upon the crupper by the postillion, provided always that the weight of each does not exceed twenty-five /attogrammes, or thirty pounds. Two-wheeled carriages having a pole, those with four, having a back-seat and a litter, cannot carry any load behind them exceeding 100 pounds weight, nor above 40 pounds in front. The third horse granted to the post-masters of the different stations, cannot be required of them unless to be attached to post-chaises carrying one passenger. This regulation does not apply to the cabriolets a soufflet. The right to the third horse is granted for six months, or for the- year entire. The post-masters cannot exercise this right, but only by virtue of or- ders to this effect, which it is necessary to have re- newed every year. Charges in the Ecclesiastical States . Paoli, For two chaisediorses . . 10 For tht? third horse 4 For the third and fourth gubhia at each post .... 8 For the freight of a covered carriage, which the post-master is bound to- furnish • • ♦ ’2 To the postillion 31 To the helper ...» a xxiv Introduction . One postillion is assigned to two horses. A car* , riage with three persons and a trunk, must also be drawn by two horses, deemed sufficient for two per- sons and two trunks. If there should be another trunk or a vache, they will of course attach the third horse, and two pauls per post is required to be paid for every other vache, trunk, or portmanteau. Four-wheeled carriages with six passengers and a trunk, must be drawn by four horses ; but having seven passengers and another large vache, they must be drawn by six horses. Other trunks, caches, and portmanteaus pay two pauls. Four-wheeled carriages mounted in the German manner, and carrying two* persons and a small trunk of sixty pounds weight, must be drawn by two horses, the same as a two-wheeled carriage. No carriage is permitted to pursue the course un- dertaken by the post, but after a stoppage of three days, nor to travel post after having engaged a voi - tare. Kingdom of Naples . The latest tariff issued 'here fixed the charge for post-horses as follows: Carlin i» For a post horse * 5^ Fora postillion - 3 For the pn-tichino • • li For putting on the pertichino 3 For the price of .the same • 1 To the boy for washing the wheels Z For the loading of a tworwheeled carriage ...... 5 lor a four-wheeled carriage JO For a courier proceeding with a traveller 5\ • A two-wlieeled carriage with a trunk of two' hun- dred weight, and carrying three passengers, must have two horses; and if three persons and a, trunk, •three horses. Tlie little four-wheeled carriage called Canestral/a, may carry two persons; and a trunk be- hind, is drawn by two horses. XXV Travelling Post in Italy . A similar carriage, with three persons and a trunk of two hundred weight, must be drawn by three horses. The large Canestra , drawn by four horses, may carry a trunk of two hundred weight, and four passen- gers ; and must be drawn by six horses, if it carry six passengers and two large trunks. Twenty-four hours having elapsed after the tra- veller has arrived at the post-house in his carriage, he may pursue his route by post. The master of the intermediate posts cannot grant any number of horses exceeding that with which the traveller arrives. If the traveller deems himself overcharged, he may com- plain at ..the Royal Post Office, and obtain redress without delay. Lucca . Paoli, For every chaise or saddle-horse • 5 For the third horse . 4 For the loading of a carriage containing places for four persons Q For a carriage for two persons ................ 3 A postillion g A helper .* 1 . A two- wheeled carriage with two passengers, and trunks weighing 350 pounds, and a domestic,, is drawn by two horses. A calash on four wheels takes two persons without trunks ; but if there are. three passen- gers, and 250 pounds of luggage, there must be three horses, and four for six persons with trunks and luggage of 350 pounds weight The weight of each person carried without luggage, is averaged at 200 pounds ; when these are wanting, weight may be substituted in their room. Persons who arrive post at Lticca are not allow-ed to continue their journey in a common carriage* xxvi Introduction . Ci-devant Kingdom of Italy . The following tariff has been fixed up before all the post-houses, by order of Government. . Liv. Cents. Price of one stage for two horses *••••• 5 50 Premium to the postillion 1 50 For open carriages upon two or four wheels * 40 . For covered carriages upon two or four wheels •• 80 If horses are wanted for exchange, the post-office must take them from the postillions of the place, pay- ing for them according to the fixed tariff ; and if there are not a sufficient number in the place, those that arrive may be taken after they have had an hour’s re- freshment, for which the traveller is to pay, and one livre besides for each horse. If horses are wanting in consequence of any failure in the post-master, he is liable to pay fifty livres for each horse wanting; the half of which goes to the traveller. Post-masters are obliged to provide horses for persons who travel with a regular passport ; but if they continue their journey in any common carriage, they must not expect any indemnification. The law respecting these regulations of the posts in Italy, expresses, that persons may nevertheless travel to Venice by Cambiatura , by procuring the ne- cessary bulletin : the price of horses is then five livres and a half for each horse, either for the chaise or the saddle. The Cambiatura is abolished in Piedmont, but re- tained in the Milanese and the Venetian States, where it is called the bolletino. It is a permission to tra- vellers to take the post at less price than it is 'fixed at by Government, with conditions not to make the horses gallop, nor to travel after sun-set. Gdld Coins in Italy . xxvn Value. GOLD COINS ' CURRENT IN ITALY. Italy . France. Milan . Venice. Bologna. France. Parma. Genoa. Savoy. Florence. Rome. Germany, Flanders. Piece of 40 livres Piece' of 20 livres Piece of 40 livres* • Piece of 20 livres Doppia, or pistole* * * *‘ Sequin Sequin, half sequin, &c. in proportion Doppia, and the half doppia Sequin, and the half sequin The new Louis The new doppia The doppia of 96 francs ; its half and quarter in proportion ..**'• The new doppia of 1787, and its half* • Sequin * Doppia Sequin The imperial of Hungary, Bavaria, and Saltzburg • • • •" Hungarian kremnitz* Hurgarian' prince- The sovrano and its half In livres of Milan. . - 25 IS lb 22 15 30 27 102 37 15 22 15 15 15 15 45 fral. livres — 11 11 1 1 34 77 94 3 JO- 72 62 41 74 40 88 5 68 74 79 65 89 c 2 xxviil Introduction . Value in SILVER MONEY CURRENT IN ITALY. Liv M ■res ilar ol i. Li of] i IvreS Italy. Three-quarters of a livre. •• i 75 Ov 25 France • Five francs •.•••.. __ — — .0 — L ■i Three quarter franc >• — J 75 Half franc* • • • * — — — — 50 Quarter franc * — — — — 25 Milan . The crovvn and its half 0 — — 4 60 The old livre and its half 1 — — — 76| The new livre of 1778 and its half. • • • 1 — — — ?4 Bologna. The crown of the Madonna and its hall 7 — — d 37 The crown of 10 Pauls and its half • • 6 18 . 6 5 .31 , ‘l 9 1 60 Modena. French crown 1 lime < . . • 7 4 6 b 54 Crown of Hercules 111 me 1784, and its half in proportion* • • • • - 7 6 — 5 60 Venice. Ducatoon, or true* crown of the cross and its half 8 ’.3 6 6 66 c . Justinh, and its half in proportion • ■ 7 13 — 5 86 France. Crown of six livres 12 3 o 84 Savoy. The new crown. • • • • • • • 9 . 1 6 6 96 Genoa . The new crown* • • • — • 8 9 — ■ 6 4-8 •Farina. Ducat to tl — b 2 Florence. Francescone *..... 7 2 — 5 45 Rome. Crown of 10 Pauls .6 ib 6 b 2.4 Germany . The dollar of the convention « • ( 12 9 b 9 Flanders. Crown of the cross, or crown • • 7 6 6 5 . 62 t 17 9 b 29' Money of Italy . The monies most current in Italy, or that in which there is the least loss are the ruspone or sequin of Florence, the sequin and the doppia of Rome, the sequin of Venice and the Louis d’or ; it is however not advisable to have more of the money of any state than you will want to dispose of while you remain in it, and the money of Genoa will not be taken in any other state. xxix Monies of Italy, In all Italy they reckon their money by livres ; and hundredths or centimes of Italy, exactly correspond- ing to the French francs. Milan. 30 livres bank, worth 32 livres current. sous. Sequin of Florence, or Venice, worth • • • »14 livres 10 hank. — „ — or ........ — — — - ..,.17 ip current. Sequin of Rome — • • • • 14 4 bank. and 20 10 or 21 current. Pistole of Piedmont 4.5 Milanese livres current. Monies of Genoa . The doppia of gold, 96 livres; its half, its quarter, and its eighth in proportion. The crown of St. John the'Baptist, 5 livres. The inarjola of, 4 and 10 sous, money of alloy. Tiie copper money no longer exists. The pound sterling is worth 28 livres of Genoa. The Louis d’or 29 livres, 4 sous. The sequin of Florence, 13 livres, 10 sous. The piastre, or Spanish dollar,. 6 livres, or 10 sous of Etruria, The livre of Florence worth 11 pauls. The sequin of Florence worth 20 pauls. The ruspone of gold worth 60 pauls. The sequin of Rome worth 19| pauls. The francescone 10 pauls. They have lately struck some new pieces of silver of one, five and two livres, in order more easily to follow the decimal system. The Florence crown is an imaginary money, worth seven livres of Florence, or 10^ pauls. The Roman crown worth 9 % pauls. The silver money at Rome loses at Florence a half baiocco per paul. Monies of Parma and Piacenza. Livre worth 5 baiocchi or soldi, or 20 sous. Three livres of Parnra are equivalent to a livre of Milan,, or to 7 & centimes, of France. The paolo rather less than 6d. English, or 12 sous French. Sequin of Florence 20 paoli, or 44 livres of Parma. It is an advantage to have the Louis d’ors of Parma to change for the sequins of Rome. Modena* Livre worth 6 baiocchi of Rome. Paolo 10 baioccfii of Rome. Roman crown 10 paoli. Roman sequin ditto. Florence ditto 20 ditto. c 3 XXX Introduction . Home . Here they reckon in crowns, pauls, and baiocchi, whieh money is divided decimally. Sequin paoli, scud© 10 paoli, paolo 10 baiocchi. Sequin of Florence 20| paoli, but current only for 20^. Sequin of Venice 20 paoli. Onzaof Naples 24 paoli. Louis d’or 44 or 45 paoli, guinea 42 or 43. In drawing upon London, the pound sterling about 42 paoli. This country has no exchange but with Paris end Amsterdam. Money is very scarce at Rome, consequently purchases in ready money, especially in gold or Tuscan silver, may be made with advantage. Money transactions are mostly carried on in bills, called cedules. The current coin is to the paper as about 1 to 16 * and if you present a bill of 100 crowns to the bank for exchange ; you will get 8 or 10 crowns in cash, and the rest in paper. Money of Naples, 1 Oncia or onza, 3 ducats; 1 ducat, 10 carlini; 1 carlini, 10 grani 1 grano, 12 calli. An oncia is worth about 25 Roman paoli ; 5 oncie make 7 sequins; and 7 oncie make. about 4 pounds sterling. The ducat of Naples 3 shillings and 9 pence English. „ The carlino worth 4|d. English, 52 carlini make a pound sterling, ■which is equivalent to 2 sequins and 2 carlini. The Roman crown worth 12-| carlini, the sequin 45f carlini, 6 carlini worth 5 Roman pauls, carlini make 1 shilling S^d. sterling. Besides the coins already mentioned they have in gold, pieces of 6,4, and 2 ducats. In silver, no less than than 15 coins from 13 carl. 2 gr. down to 5 grani ; of which those of 6, 4, and 3 carlini are common ; the ducat is very scarce ; the pateca of 5 car- linns also scarce; the piece of carlini is called tar.i ; and the carlino of* Naples is the tari of Sicily. In brass they have six coins, from 1 grano 6 calli, called the pubiica. The accounts are kept at Naples in ducats, carlini, and grains; but ip exchange, they only reckon by ducats and grains. Weights in Italy. Monies of Piedmont . XXXI . Money of France* jf..The doppia or pistole of gold of Pied- 'S < mont . • •• o C Of Marengo. ...... Crown of Piedmont* Piece of eight sons of of ; The others diminish in proportion. ' The piccalion ■ • < 70 45 11 40 37 Tj 1 The livre of Piedmont is nearly equal with the English shilling, Bologna. The livre here is worth -Sequin of Rome Sequin of Florence go paoli. paoli. paoli. Weights in Italy. At Turin 16 pounds of Hamburgh are equal to 21 of Turin. The old pound used in pharmacy was twelve ounces, but the disproportion of these ounces to others was as five to six. Some years since, the French system of weights and measures was introduced at Turin. Milan . — The common and the merchant’s pound here is 28 light ounces; each ounce at Milan may be divided into 8 drams, the dram into 3 deniers, the denier into 24 grains. The ounce used for weighing gold and silver is heavier. It is called I’oncia di marco d’oro. The gold and silversmith’s ounce, is divided in- to 24 deniers, and the denier into 24 grains ; but these deniers make 26 of the common ounce, or oncia di peso leggiera. Sugar-, coffee, wax, drugs, and silk, are sold 12 ounces the liretta , or libra piccola ; or 12 light ounces, the same as in the common pound, or 10 ounces and a half of the large, old Paris weight. Venice .— The pound used for bread and drugs is 12 ounces, each of these 6 gras and 17£ grains antient French weight. The ounce is divided into 6 sazi T xxxi i Introduction. when bread, silk, or thread are weighed. For weighing drugs it is divided into 8 drams ; and 1 9 light ounces make the heavy pound. The mark used in weighing money, gold, pearls, and diamonds, is divided into 8 ounces, each equal to 9 gros. 9~^ grains old Fr.ench weight. The ounce* is divided into 14*4? carats, each carat containing 4 grains. The large pound, libra grossa, used for weighing metals, and other heavy articles, eatables, &c. is divided into 1 2 heavy ounces, each ounce consisting of 192 carats, the carat of 4 grains. The pound used for weighing gold lace and gold wire, is lighter than that used for ingots and money, the ounce not being more than 6 gros 46 g grains, old French weight. Eighty pounds peso grosso, are equal to eighty Ham- burgh pounds, and eight pounds perq sottile, are equal to five Hamburgh pounds. Genoa . — The robe, or rubo , is equal to 25 pounds, a peso sottile of twelve ounces each. The cantara , or quinta, is equal to 6 robes, or 150 pounds, and con- tains 100 roioli . The rotolo is equal to 18 ounces, and is the weight used for heavy merchandize. Th e peso consists of five cantare. Florence . — One litra makes 12 ounces 288 denari , or 6,912 grains; 12 ounces makes 24 denari 576 grains ; and 1 denaro is equal to 24 grains. The ’camp ion e is preserved at Florence with the most scrupulous precaution, and this, they say, is the standard of the pound weight among the antient Romans. Rome . — Here 1 libra, or pound, makes 12 ounces, 96 drams, 288 scruples, 576 oboli, 1,728 silique, 6,912 grains. One ounce makes 8 drams, 24 scruples, 48 oboli, 144 silique, 576 grains. One dram makes 3 scruple's, 6 oboli, 18 silique , 72 grains. One scruple makes 2 obolo, 6 silique, 24 grains. One, 060/0 makes 4 silique, 1 2 grains ; 1 silique 4 grains. The quin- tal is from 100, 160, to 250 pounds. The modern Roman pound weighs 6,638 grains old French measure. The antient Roman pound was only 6,144 grains. xxxiii Measures in Italy . Naples. — The pound at Naples is divided into 12 ounces, and the ounce into 30 tvapesi ; the trapesi into 20 acini. One hundred ounces make 3 rotoli : thus the rotolo is 33 l T ounces, Neapolitan ounces. The stara consists of 10* rotoli, and the cantara of 100 rotoli . The weights in every Other part of Italy differ very little from these already specified. Measures in Italy. % The mile of Piedmont is 800 trabucohi. The tra- bucco is 6 Piedmontese feet, or 20 T ~3- inches English. A Piedmontese mile therefore is 2,688 yards and 10 inches English, or 4 yards. 10 inches more than an English mile and an half. The mile of Genoa is nearly the same with that of Piedmont. At Parma they reckon bv Italian miles, which are 61 yards and 1 foot shorter than an English mile. Bologna and Flo'rence.~The mile of Tuscany c is supposed to be 1000 geometrical paces, or 5000 French feet. MV Dutens reckons it to be 5,150 French feet, or 4,835 f. 3 i. 4 1. English, or 148 yards, 8 inches, 8 lines short of an English mile. The Roman mile is nearly the same with this ; and probably with thp antient Roman mile. The Neapolitan mile is 7000 palmi ; and the palmo being nearly lOf inches English, the Neapolitan mile is longer than the English by about 249 yards. • Measures at Naples — Long Measure. — 1 Canna con- tains 8 palmi, and 2} yards English ; a palmo is 10£ i. English ; or more accurately, according to M. Dutens, 10 i. 31. The palmo of Genoa for silk is 9i. 60 ; for cloth 9 i. 80. At Rome, in architecture, it is 8 i. 78 ; in other things 9i. 79. The braccio at Ve- nice is 25 i. 30 for silk ; and 27 i. for linen or woollen cloth. At Florence it is 22 i. 80 for silk, and 22 i. 61 for cloth. At Rome it is 34 i. 27. At Milan for architecture 23 i. 60 ; for silk 20 i. 70; for cloth 26 i. 20. At Bologna 24 i. 50. At Parma and Piacenza 26 i. 90. The lamia at Genoa is 87 i. 60. At Rome xxxiv Introduction . 78 inches. At Naples 82 i. 90. The foot at Turin is 20 i. 1.7; at Venice 14 inches; at Bologna 15 inches. These are English measures in inches and decimal parts. Land Measure.-— The moggia contains 900 passi ; each passi containing 73} palmi. Dry Measure Wheat is measured by the tomolo f of which make an English quarter of 8 bushels. Wine Measure. — Wine is measured by the barrel, containing 66 caraffi, equal to 9f English gallons. In the city of Naples, the barrel contains only 60 caraffi. Oil Measure . — 1 Salma contains 16 stari, 1 staro 10} rotoli : 1 rotolo 33| ounces, which is 2 pounds English. A salma is about 40 English gallons. TABLE OF POPULATION of different Farts of Italy. Cidevant kingdom of Italy 6,209,985 Kingdom of Naples - • 5,000,000 Kingdom of Sicily * 1,200,000 Kingdom of Sardinia . 600,000 Etruria 1,100,000 Roman states 790,017 Piedmont 1,900,000 Liguria 500,000 States of Parma and Piacenza ........ 300,000 Corsica and the island of Elba 140,000 Lucca 120,000 o Republic of St. Marino 5,000 Total- 17,865,000 HEIGHTS OF MOUNTAINS different "Elevations of Italy, above the Level of the Mediterranean , taken by M. Suussure, Shuckburgh, and others. English feel. Mont Blanc in Savoy is 15,662 According to De Luc 15,S02f Mont Cenis.at the post house • • • 6,261 The summit of the rocks which surround the plain where the post house is situated • • • • 9,261 Le Grand Croix • . 6,023 JNovalezza 2,741 Turin 941 Monte Viso in Piedmont 9,997 Table of Italian Hours . xxxv English feet. Monte Itadicoso,a volcano* the highest point of the Appenines, over which tlie road from Bologna .to Florence passes 2,901 • Radicofani at the post house* ••••' 2,470 Summit of the rock above it* • 3,050 Viterbo » 1,159 Monterosa' near Beccaria* * 15,084 Monte V.elino, near Rieta> probably the highest point of the Appenines 8,327 Monte S omnia, two leagues from Spoleto • • • • 3.738 Mount Vesuvius, according to M. Saussure •••• 3,904 • — — — according to others » 3,938 JMqntenuoyo,'o£ Montecenere 472 Montebarbaro (Mons Gaurus) 1,102 The great rock Montecorno • • • 9,577 Mount Etna, according to M. Saussure 10,700^ • according to M. Shuck burgh 10,954 Grand St. Bernard, at the Hospital, accdrdilig to M. Saussure 8,074 St. Gothard, according to the same .......... (5,790 These elevations’ have all been taken by the barometer at different times in French toises and English miles. Table of Italian Hours . The manner of reckoning time in some parts of Italy is peculiar to themselves. At Turin, Parma , and Florence , they calculate the time the same as the rest of Europe ; but in other parts they begin jhe day at sun set. The following table is calculated for five of the principal latitudes ; and the figures point out the hours as it appears from the clocks in Italy, at the time when it is noon among us. This table is formed upon the principle, that in Italy it is understood that the twenty-four hours, of which the day consists, are concluded exactly thirty minutes after the apparent immersion of the sun’s disk. In the Milan Ephemerides a table is founded on the supposition, that the sun sets in summer in twenty- three hours ; and in winter in twenty-three hours and thirty minutes : but the following table from M. De Lalande merits the preference. x>:xvi Introduction . A Table pointing out Noon according to the Italian Hours. Latitudes. 15° 44' Milan & Venice; 14° 25 Genoa. 43° 45 Florence. 41° 54' Rome. 40° 50* Naples* H. . M. H. M. H. M. H. M. rl. M. January 3 19 9 19 6 19 2 18 57 18 53 10 19 3 19 0 18 57 18 52 18 48 20 18 54 18 5i 18 49 ■8 44 1 8 40 February 3 18 40 18 3/ 18 3f 18 32 ! 8 ■ 28 10 18 28 18 ' 26 18 25 18 21 i 8 38 20 18 12 18 11 18 V 18 7 18 5 March 1 17 58 17 57 17 57 17 ' 55 >6 53 1 ' 30 17 45 17 44 17 44 17 45 \7 41 20 17 28 17 29 17 28 >7 1 ‘. 17 27 .April 1 17 ' 9 17 10 17 10 17 11 17 13 10 16 54 16 57 16 57 16 59 16 59 20 16 37 16 40 16 46 16 46 16 46 May 1 16 24 16 • ' 26 16 27 16 31 16 23 10 16 13 16 15 16 17 16 21 16 23 20 16 3 16 4 16 6 16 11 16 13 June 1 15 49 15 53 15 5 c 16 1 16 5 10 15' 44 15 48 15 51 15 57 16 0 20 15 42 15 46 15 49 15 55 15 59 July 3 15 43 15 47 15 5< i 5 57 16 0 10 15 47 15 5i 15 54 16 0 16 4 20 15 56 16 0 16 / 1 2 - 16 7 16 11 August 1 16 9 16 12 16 13 1 6 19 16 22 10 16 20 16 23 16 24 16 29 16 32 •20 >16 34 16 37 1 6 38 16 44 16 43 September 1 16 32 16 54 16 54 LO 57 16 59 10 > 17 7 17 8 17 h 17 Cj •7 10 20 1 17 22 17 22 i 7 22 !7 23 17 '24 October 1 17 39 17 39 17 39 17 39 17 39 10 ► 17 53 117 52 17 52 17 5 17 51 20 > 18 8 1 18 7 18 7 48 5 18 4 November 1 18 27 18 25 > 18 24 18 20 18 19 If >18 39 > 18 3£ i 18 25 > 18 33 13 29 20 ► 18 51 18 49 > 18 47 18 41 18 39 December 1 19 3 18 51 1 18 57 ’8 53 18 48 1C ► 19 7 39 4 i 19 c > 18 57 18 53 20 ► 19 12J19 7 (19 4 !|13 59|l8 55 HINTS TO CONTINENTAL TRAVELLERS* EVERY traveller should endeavour to lay down an exact plan, from which he should never deviate, with- out the most urgent motives. He should also make notes upon the relays, the inns, and the most remark* able inns where he may intend to stop. Previous to your departure, determine the place to which letters may be addressed to you, or where you may receive answers, carefully arranging both the time and the manner. Those directed poste restante } or to be left at the post office, are certainly the least secure of any : it is preferable to direct your letterg or packets to some banker , or some respectable mer- chant or bookseller , at any of the places predetermined. Take no English carriage or servants with you: the former is not so convenient by any means as a foreign one ; and the latter will prove the greatest possible incumbrance. If you take an English carriage, a third of the value must be paid, for which you re- ceive a certificate ; and two thirds of this money is returned when you leavo the country. A good strong built cabriolet , to be hired at Calais, is the best tra- velling carriage for two persons. Excellent servants, Swiss, Germans, or Italians, may always be procured by speaking to masters of respectable hotels at Paris, or any of the great cities on the Continent. If the traveller means to spend some time in Italy , we would advise the selection of an Italian domestic, chi sa fare la cucina , or in other words, who can do the honours of the kitchen. You cannot be too scrupulous in your choice of a servant, as one of this description, faith- ful, sober, discreet, active, neither too young nor too old, is a real treasure. There are many advantages in choosing a servant from the place of his birth. xxxviii Introduction . If you travel by diligence , always secure a place m the cabriolet , by far the best and most convenient part of the vehicle. Persons who wish to preserve health during a long journey , should avoid sitting many hours together in a carriage, by alighting at every post, and ’walking on while their horses are changed , and likewise by walking up steep hills. Never give in a wrong name at the gates of any place, or in the place itself ; as it may be productive of great inconvenience. The French language is become so general, that a stranger who wishes to visit any country, with the lan- guage of which he is unacquainted, ought at least to understand French, of which he may say, as of money, cette langue passe par tout. Whoever goes abroad merely for observation, should avoid his own countrymen . If you travel in a part}’, (observes Mr. Forsyth) your curiosity must adopt their paces: you must sometimes pass through towns which are rich in art or antiquity, and stop where the pnlv attraction is good cheer. While you linger with fond delay among the select beauties of a gallery, your friends are advanced into other rooms, and the keeper complains when you separate ; you thus lose the freedom of inspection, your ears ring with impa- tience, and often with absurdity. If you travel with one who is more ignorant of the language than your- self, you must stand interpreter in all his bickerings with the natives, and a man is usually harsher when his spleen is to pass through the mouth of another, than when he speaks for himself. Procure the most exact information as to prohibited or contraband goods. If by chance you should have them with you, the wisest way. is to get rid of them, or to make an open declaration of the circumstance be- fore the proper authorities. Never suffer your do- mestics to have any concern with these articles, as in this case it is the master alone who is always respon- sible* Hints to Continental Travellers . xxxix It is of the utmost importance for travellers in France to know, that, with respect to coin, two de- crees of the National Assembly still exist in full vigour ; which prohibits, under pain of imprisonment and fine, the-exportation of silver* coined or in bars. On en- tering France, therefore, make a declaration at the bureau of the frontier, and receive a certificate, or what is better, convert all your money into letters or bills of exchange at the French frontiers, reserving only a few livres. Never take into the French territory either packets or simple letters sealed; as you are subject to be thrown into prison, and to pay a fine of 500 livres for each letter. A traveller should never interfere tvith the received opinions of the country where he is a strange^ though ever so closely connected with error or prejudice, much less discuss, or set himself up as a judge of them. As much as possible he should likewise avoid all conversation upon politics. To hear and forbear, ought to be the order of the day with every traveller. This however does not absolutely prohibit any kind of observation en passant. Every thing remarkable oc- curring in the course of the day, if prudent, he will not fail to enter into an Album , every evening, in or- der that nothing may escape him which is truly worthy of attention. Never fail to purchase the map or plan of the in- terior of the large towns and cities which you may visit. This is the best guide which you can have, as it con- tains at least, the panoramic view of the streets and public places. With this map in your hand, ascend the highest tower in the place, and request the guide to point out to you the principal objects. It very frequently happens that persons may be found in coffee-houses capable of giving you very useful information relative to celebrated artists co-residents with them ; the workshops or manufactories ; the Pen- sions or Instituts ; and it is never advisable to attempt to view any of these without some kind of introduction, d 2 xl Introduction* Travel as much as possible with persons of whom you have some knowledge, and avoid strange faces ; but as this cannot always be put in execution, take care how you place any reliance upon persons whom you may casually meet with. Never ash them any questions as to the object of their journey , nor where they intend to put up, &c. and be sure if they put such questions to you, to avoid giving any positive answer. Even persons whom you may have seen before are not to be too hastily recognised or trusted. It is equally imprudent to take up foot passengers on the road from a false principle of compassion ; this has been the cause of many murders and assassinations. Pistols , with double barrels, provided they have but one trigger, are always the best for a traveller. Agates are generally esteemed in preference to flints. A ho- rizontal position for fire-arms in a carriage is the best. The couloirs made in France for preventing pistols from going off when not wanted, are a very good in- vention. Always see to the good and proper state of your pistols, which are subject to be injured by moist weather, rain, or fogs ; they should be reloaded once every fortnight. If you have to pass over a bridge or through a river during the night , never place implicit confidence in your postillions, who are often intoxicated or sleepy ; and never traverse a large or lonely forest in the night. Letters of recommendation not only to substantial bankers, but to other respectable persons, are by no means to be despised. It is not likely that a stranger should have too many friends among foreigners, and cases may possibly occur, in which their assistance to extricate you from embarrassments, or to afford protection, may be highly valuable. An excellent method of preserving papers and •writings is to have an envelope of paper nearly the strength of cartridge paper, and then deposit them at the bottom of a trunk or coffer, after having taken a note of their contents ; this is also the place for rou - Hints to Continental Travellers. xli leans of money, books or any other objects, the weight of which might bruise or spoil other things of a diffe- rent texture. The large port folios that are shut with a lock, are still the best for papers. For those of im- portance Count Berchthold recommended a kind of belt , covered with red leather , with four pockets to it, at about the distance of an inch from each other, in order that the whole may be „pliable. This belt may be worn under the waistcoat and buckled round the waist. Each of the pockets is fastened by a flat metal button. Trunks and coffers short and deep are preferable to those that are long and shallow; these at all times should be very strong, and even the outsides of them should be strengthened w'ith iron, and with flat pieces of wood, to resist the pressure in the packing of the diligences and carriages. Nothing can be worse than a simple leather trunk. A traveller should invariably make up his packages the night previous to his departure, and never wait till the last momenta What are called Vaches and demi Vaches are of ex* cellent use upon the continent ; they are chiefly in* tended for clothes, a lady’s toilette, &c. and possesses the convenience of suffering the clothes, &c. to be extended at their full length. When a person has liis own carriage* die will do well to have what are called Magazins etpoches to put things in, which may be liable to be wanted in the night, with- out being obliged to open the trunks, &c. Persons who have no carriage of their own, should at least have a sac de nuit , or for greater convenience, a port- manteau. Another indispensable article to travellers, is a strong box for their money, jewels, bills of exchange, &c. These sometimes contain pens, ink, paper, and visiting cards, in the latter of which, written or printed, the traveller should never be deficient. In great cities, the name of the inn, or the number of the house where the traveller is, must be mentioned, d 3 Introduction . xlii These cards often prevent a great deal of trouble when travellers are examined at the gates. The cas- settes or strong boxes should, for security, be attached to the sides or the bottom of the carriage, or in one’s chamber at the inn. Most of these cassettes are pro- vided with an escritoire, basons, bottles, razors, soap- dishes, &c. Some persons are accustqmed to take with them a large sack, made of the most impenetrable leather, containing a complete travelling bed ; viz. a mattrass, coverlid, pillows, sheets, and sometimes a bedstead made of iron, but extremely light . 1 Lady Craven completed the convenience of this bedstead, by a very happy invention, in causing the feet of it to stand in vases filled with water, which cut off all communi- cation between the bed and those insects which some-* times infest bed-chambers. Never sleep in a bed suspected of infection wholly undressed ; though garters, braces, and cravats, should always be loosed. The rouleau de voyage is a modern luxury,, and renders the movement of a carriage infinitely more easy. It is made of sheep skin, five or six inches thick, covered with hair, and filled with goose down, and is used as a pillow to sleep on, and with the assist- ance of straps, as a garment to wear. Every traveller should have a gobelet de voyage , with an etui. Some of these are made of horn, and plated in the inside with silver. These etuis also sometimes contain a cork-skrew, a carrelet y a small but safe pad- lock in the form of a cross ; the latter, however^ should never be used but in suspected places. A writing-pen is another indispensable article ; one much in use, was lately called a Tilsit , made of metal, with a small cap, from whence the ink falls of itself ; but which is still so well secured, that it may be carried without apprehension. The barometers made by Luc 1 Those who take sheets, pillow's, and blankets, without this apparatus, may iold them up every morning into a convenient size, and place them in the carriage by way of cushions, using a ■simple leather envelope. Hints to Continental Travellers. xliii and Rosenthal , at Paris, are also an object with some curious travellers. A traveller who uses his own carriage, ought to con° fine himself to one trunk, vache , or cassette ; consider- ing how many objects may be stowed in the pockets of the coach, the traveller would find more than these extremely embarrassing. Servants should always have a quantity of linen, needles, and thread, and other things necessary to light a fire. A person travelling post without delay, and who eats, drinks, and sleeps in his carriage, will, whatever he may lose in his prospects, gain it again in his pocket. As for what is given to the guards, keepers of public edifices, gardens, museums, Sec. for a sight of these places, people will save considerably by not going alone, but w ith the company they may find at their inns. Ever so short a stay in great towns and cities is always dear ; but may be considerably reduced by making proper arrangements. One part of these is to take a ready Jurnished lodging , where you may practise economy without apprehension or embar- rassment. The Traveller at his Inn . — It is an uncontroverted rule, that inns most frequented are those whose charges are most reasonable. We may add, that the traveller „ whose deportment is civil and obliging , w ill always be better served than the rude and over-bearing. To know the best inns, is to listen to the voice of common fame, but by no means to depend upon the eulogies of the postillions ; however, it may so happen, that in many inns people may be better entertained, and at a lower rate in one season than another. A traveller who has no servant, will do well to talce a note of the name of the inn , and that of the street , at which he puts up, as there are sometimes two houses of this description of the same name. Four or five drops of vitriolic acid put into a large decanter of bad water , will make the noxious particles xliv Introduction . deposit themselves at the bottom, and render tfig water wholesome. As nothing is more unwholesome than to sleep in a room which has been a long time shut up> the windows should be opened immediately : — wainscot painted, papered rooms, or even bare plaistered walls, are pre- ferable to those hung with tapestry of silk or woollen. These retain unwholesome air much the longest. In inns, as elsewhere, cleanliness is every thing. And where people do not find their own sheets they cannot too much insist upon seeing their own beds made , and examining whether the sheets are dry. If the bed have curtains, or a tester, it will be prudent to remove it from the wall, as these often serve as a retreat for different kinds of vermin, which it may not be neces- sary to name. Sometimes these antient ornaments are not well secured, and there is a possibility of their falling while you are asleep. In winter, rooms with stoves are equally disagreeable and dangerous to travellers ; nothing is more unwhole- some than the vapours from stoves ; no traveller should sleep in a room where there is one. To carry one’s face too near a stove when burning, is extremely pre- judicial to the stomach and the eyes. Stoves formed of earthenware are preferable to those of metal ; and those which burn wood, are less noxious than others that consume coals. As for bugs 1 and Jleas, there are many modes of destroying or driving them away ; one of the most efficacious is, to place two small balls of camphor at the foot of your bed, and two at the head, between the sheets and the mattrass, removing the bedstead from the wall. This at first may have the same effects upon the nerves as a narcotic; though, if used but now and then, it will not be prejudicial to health. The burning of two or three candles is another method used for driving these reptiles away. Four or five drops of 1 This caution is scarcely necessary in France ; it will prove useful, however, in more southern countries. Hints to Continental Travellers . xlv essential oil of lavender , distributed about a bed, is another remedy. In Italy, and other hot countries, where" people are plagued with flies, it is the custom to hang round the bed what is called a Zinzaliere , or a kind of gauze curtain. It is of the greatest importance for a traveller to have a hed to himself, and a bed-chamber, if he can, as it is a common practice all over the continent to put three or four beds in a room, as he cannot be too much upon his guard against becoming the dupe of a bed-fellow. It may not be sufficient to lock your chamber-door, and take the key with you ; because the landlord of his people may have other keys. When you intend to. be absent, therefore, you should take care to leave your trunks , fyc. voell secured, to prevent their being searched, for various purposes. The best way is, when you go out, to leave the key in the care of the landlord , or one of the principal waiters, at this step renders them responsible for your property. If the innkeeper refuses to take charge of your key, you will then do well to remove your most valuable effects to the house of some banker , to whom you may have letters of credit, or recommendation, or bills of exchange ; and get an acknowledgment of the receipt of them. But never leave your room-door open, though you may be absent only a few minutes. If compelled to put up at any inn where you may have any reason to be under apprehensions for the safety of your person, it is good to be provided with a padlock, or a travelling chamber-lock , easily fixed on any door in five minutes. Be sure also to burn a light , and have your servant to sleep near at hand. If you cannot padlock your door, you may at least barricade it voith the chairs and tables in your bed-chamber. As there are different rides and regulations in various places, the non-observance of which might subject you to inconvenience, the traveller who intends to make any stay will act prudently in making enquiries xlvi Introduction . into these affairs, either of the innkeeper or his ser- vants. In large places, a valet de place is sometimes indis- pensable. If no price be fixed for his services, you must agree with him for his wages, which is generally a florin per day. If you employ him to make any purchases for you, you must take care that there is no collusion between him and the dealer, to wrong you. But with respect to the choice of a valet or a washerwoman, it is generally the most eligible way to refer to the innkeeper with whom you reside. Innkeepers are in the habit of asking their guests what they would choose to have for dinner, &c. ; but }'Our best way is to enquire ivhat they have in the house ; otherwise, if you order any thing particular, they will make you pay for that and the ordinary pro- vision into the bargain. If you are in a lad inn, never eat any ragouts, as 'these may be made up of scraps and leavings, or other unwholesome matters : rather ask foY roast meat, hot or cold ; for eggs, milk, pulse, &c. In such places, put up also with ordinary xvine ; for if you ask for other kinds, it is generally drawn from the same cask, and you only lose your money for your pains. Every traveller who is alone, may live at a much cheaper rate and much more agreeably at a table d’hote, or by dining at a restaurateur’s, than if he is served at his own chamber. There is much amusement and information to be acquired at these public tables ; and, besides, travellers sometimes form veiy useful connec- tions. However they are not without their inconve- niences; for, standing too much upon ceremony, a man may pass all the dishes from himself, and run the risk of rising hungry from the table. Families, however, on their travels, have no choice as to eating at home, though at a dearer rate, as innkeepers who keep a public table, think they have a right to lay a tax upon the private ones. As the noise of an inn is often very disagreeable, and prevents invalids from sleeping, it may be well to Swiss and Italian Carriers . xlvii observe, that the most tranquil time of night is from ten till five in the morning ; this, therefore, should be devoted to rest. At most inns it is best to pay your bills every day , or at furthest every three days. This is a method not very pleasing to many innkeepers ; but it is the best way to prevent being fleeced , because your host is always under some apprehension, that if not well treated, you will change your house. It is not neces- sary to ask what is the sum total of the charge ; but to keep and give in a specific account of all you have had. In most inns it is necessary, the moment you step into them , to enquire into the price of' the bed , the table d'hote , fyc. unless you would pay three or four times more than the value. For further particulars respecting travelling in France , Belgium , Holland, and Germany, See the In- troductions to Tronchet’s Paris, and Campbells Guide through Belgium, &c. Swiss and Italian Carriers . Messrs. Delavaud and Emery, Swiss carriers, under- take to convey passengers from London to Geneva, or Lausanne, for twenty Louis d ors each person. The journey is made in 16 days, two out of the number being spent in Paris, or more, if six persons make an agreement with the carrier to do so. The journey is performed at "the rate of fifty miles a day, starting at five in the morning, and always sleeping at some town every night, Messrs. D. and E. furnish logement et nourriiure (provision and lodging) during the whole of the journey, except breakfasts, and for the time spent at Paris. The number taken is six, and each person is allowed a cwt. of luggage ; the conveyance Trom Calais is a large, roomy, English carriage with three horses; and the passengers are taken from London to sdviii Introduction. Dover by one of the stages. Twenty Louis d’ors constitute the whole expence, with the trifling excep- tions just mentioned. From London to Florence , the charge is 36 Louis d’ors, and the journey is made in 30 days. From Paris to Florence , 26; and from, the same place to Milan, 22 Louis dors. %* For further particulars, inquire of Mr. Re - cordon , Watch-maker , Cockspur -street, Charing-cross. Passports. Passports to leave England may be obtained from the Comte de Lachatre, No. 8, Lower Seyraour-street. A trifling gratuity to the servant is all the fee necessary on this occasion. The passports for Belgium and Holland are obtained in Buckingham-street, Strand, the last house on the right hand. The best method is to procure a passport at the French Ambassador’s, and get it countersigned in Buckingham-street ; the tra- veller will then be at liberty to choose either route, even after he has left London. The post-masters at Paris , and at all other towns within the distance of 45 miles from that place, are not obliged to supply horses to any traveller coming that way for the first time, unless he exhibit a passport, and a licence delivered to him by the director general of the post. These licences are given gratis on exhi- biting the passports, and having them registered at the Hotel de Posies , rue Coqheron. The Circular Exchange Notes* xlix EUROPEAN TRAVELLERS Are very materially accommodated hy the folio'wing Plan of the Exchange- Notes and Letters of Credit , of Messrs. Herrxes, Farquhar, and Company, No. 16, St. James’s Street, London. A Correspondence is settled at most of the prin- cipal places on the Continent of Europe, in order to accommodate travellers with money, at any place, which best suits their convenience; and to supply those with bills upon any particular place, who desire to make remittances hence, which are drawn in French , it being the language more generally used. The Circular Exchange-Notes are given for any even sum, from 0 . sterling up- wards, and are payable at any of the principal places on the Continent of Europe, at the option of the possessor, who is furnished with a Letter of Order for that purpose, addressed to the agents of the houses at the different places. That Letter , whilst it serves to identify, also gives the traveller a claim to any attention or good offices that he may stand in need of. The value of the notes is reduced into foreign money at the current usance course of exchange on London, at the time and place of payment. Although payable seven days after sight, to answer the same purpose abroad as Bank Post Bills in England , yet they are always paid on presentation, except when there is room for suspicion of their not being presented by the right owner ; in which case the agents avail themselves of the seven days to make the necessary inquiries, and to give time also to the real proprietor, if on the spot, to make known his loss. These notes being subject to no deduction at the time of payment, for commission, or any other charge e 1 Introduction . whatever (unless the payment be required in any par** ticular coin which happens to bear a premium ; ) and thus uniting an important advantage, in point of eco- nomy, with the convenience of the optional payment at so many different places,— their superiority over every sort of Letter of Credit must be obvious. The Transferable Exchange-Notes are payable at one particular place only, and are cal- culated chiefly for making remittances of money to persons whose residences are fixed. — They are given for any required sum, previously reduced into foreign money at the last quoted course of exchange from the place where payable, and they are negotiable by simple endorsement, in the same manner as Bills of Exchange.— They are payable, as well as the circular notes, without any deduction whatever. From the foregoing short explanation, it will be seen that the great advantages of this plan, over com- mon Letters of Credit , are, 1. The option, which the traveller has, of receiving his money at so many different places. 2. His being exempted from the payment of any commission, or charge of any kind, the stamp duty only excepted. The real convenience of these Notes has been uni- versally acknowledged by travellers of all descriptions, since the plan was first conceived by Sir Robert Her- ries, nearly fifty years ago, and which has been adopted by his house ever since ; any further expla- nation that may be required, either with regard to the Notes, or to Letters of Credit, which the House also furnishes if required, will he given with pleasure, either verbally or by letter. All Letters of Credit in the common form are subject to a Commission of one per Cent . y and often , from the necessity of getting them transferred from one pi ace to another , two or three of these Commissions are incurred. Circular Notes where payable. li List of Places where the Circular Notes payable . are optionally Abbeville Civita Vecchia Lyons Rheims Aix in Provence Cobientz Madrid Riga Aix la Chapelle Cologne Magdeburg Rome Aleppo Constantinople Malaga Rotterdam Alexandria Copenhagen Malta Rochelle Alicante Corunna Manheim Rouen Amiens Dantzig Mantua St. Lucar Amsterdam Dieppe Marseilles St. Maloes Ancona Dijon Maestricht St. Omer Angers Douay Mentz St. Petersburg Anspach Dresden Memel Schafflmusen Antwerp Dunkirk Messina Seville Avignon Dusseldorf Metz Sienna Augsburg Elsinore Middleburg Smyrna Bagneres Ferrara Milan Spa Barege Florence Modena Stockholm Barcelona Frankfort Montpellier Stuttgard Basle Ghent Moscow Strasburg Bayonne Genoa Munich Tain Berlin Geneva Munster Tarbes Bertie Gibraltar Nancy Toulon Besan^on Gottenburg Nantes Toulouse Bilboa Gottingen Naples 1’ours Blois The Hague Neufchalcl Treves Bologna Hamburgh Nice Trieste Bordeaux Hanover Nisrnes Turin Boulogne surMer Havre de Grace Nurenburg Valencia Bremen Hesse Cassel Oporto Valenciennes Breslaw Inspruck Orleans Venice Brunswick Konigsberg L’Orient. Vicenza Brussels Lausanne Ostend Verona Cadiz Leipzick Palermo Vienna Caen Liege Paris Warsaw Cairo Lille Parma Weimar Calais Lisbon Perpignan Y verdun Cambray Leghorn Prague Zante Carthagena Chambery Lubeck Lucca Ratisbon Zurich Besides these places , there are Jew or none in Europe where the Circular Notes are not now s'o well known as to be negotiable currently , as Bills at short date on London . Description of Plates* liii OF THE PLATES. 1. Tomb of the Gladiators discovered at Pompeii, in 1812. See p. 345. 2. Tke Serenade, Costume of Rome . This is an eloquent manner of making love, common among the lower orders at Rome ; the lover agrees with several persons of his own rank in life, as coachmen, grooms, &c. most of whom play on some instrument, to accom- pany him to the house of the lady. Sometimes, also, these amateur musicians sing, as well as play ; but when this is not the case, another comrade who can sing, is found to complete the orchestra ; as in the present plate, where the man with the pipe in his Land, and his eyes turned towards the girl at the window, is the singer. The lover is sufficiently de- signated by his pensive attitude and fixed looks. . 3. Costume of Cerbara. This is the costume of the peasants of Cerbara, a district about 25 miles from Rome, on the Tivoli side. The costume of the fe- males is very elegant, particularly that of the figure which is represented standing. It combines the style of dress of the antient Roman women, as also some- thing of the Greek taste ; the dress is composed of blue or scarlet cloth, ornamented with ribbons of dif- ferent colours, and frequently with arabesque em- broidery in gold. 4. Manner of driving wild Cattle to Rome. The houses for slaughtering cattle at Rome, are not con- fined to one part of the city, but are scattered like butchers’ shops in other countries, all over the place. The present plate represents the manner of driving the cattle from the country to the different purchasers. These furious animals are driven through the midst of the city, surrounded by their owners, and butchers on horsebacu, each armed with a long staff, shod with iron, and making loud cries to frighten the animals. This sort of spectacle, though very curious, is best liv Introduction . observed from a window, for, sometimes, serious acci- dents occur ; generally, however, the cries of the drivers, and the bellowing of the animals, are heard at a considerable distance, and quite time enough to enable the passenger to escape : all the shops are shut in an instant, Neapolitan Gens d’Armes. These men are em- ployed throughout the kingdom of Naples, as foot- patroles to' secure the public reads from brigands or robbers. 5. Roman Saltarello , a vignette, in the plan of Rome. This is a kind of dance, common in the popu- lous parts of Rome. The costume is that of the Transteverians , or those who live on the western side of the Tiber. See p. 189. On the plan of Rome, the public buildings, churches, &c. are engraved in black outline ; the streets and squares on one side in black outline, and on the other with a thin line. The roads, public walks, pleasure grounds, and gar* dens in the vicinity of the city, in thin outline. References to the Plan of Rome . 1 S. M. de Monte Santo 2 S. M. de Miracoli 3 S. Giacomo degl* Incurabili 4 Gesu e Maria 5 S. Atanasio de Greci 6 S. S. Trinita di Monte 7 S. Carlo) al Carso 8 Mausoleo d ’Angnsto 9 S. Roceo 10 S. Girolamo de Schiavoni 11 Palaz. Borghese 12 Colleg. CJementino 13 Palaz; Ruspoli 14 Palaz. di Spagna 15 Palaz. Mignanelli 16 S. Isido.ro. 1 7 SSuia. Concezione de Cap- pucini 18 S. Nicolo di Tolentino. 19 S. M della Vittoria 20 Palaz. Barberini 21 S. Giuseppe a capo le case 22 Propaganda Fide 23 S. Andrea delle Fratte 24 Colleg. Nazareno 25 S. Sjilvestro in Oapite 26 Palaz. Oltoboni 2? S. Lorenzo in Lucina 28 Palaz. di Firenze 29 S. Antonio de Portoghesi 30 S. Agoslino 31 4>. Apollinare 32 Palaz. Altemps 33 S. Salvator in Laura 84 Palaz. Gabrielii 35 S. Gio. de Fierentini 36 Palaz. Sacbelti 37 Palaz. Sl’orza Cesarini 38 S. M. in Vajlicella 39 S. M. della Pace 40 S. M. deli’ Anima 41 S. Agnese 42 S. Giaeomo de Spagnuoli 43 Universita della Sapieuza 41 Palaz. Medici 45 S. Liugi de Francesi 46 S. M« Maddalena 47 S. M. in Gampo Marzo 48 SS. Trinita de Missionarj 49 Curia Innocenziana 50 Palaz. Ghigi 51 Colonna di M. Aurelio 52 S. Claudia de Bourgononi 5.3 Palaz. Conti 54 Fontana di Trevi 55 Palaz. Pontificio nej Quirinale 56 Quattro Fontane 57 Palaz. Albani 58 S. M. degl’ Angeli 59 S. Andrea de Gesuiti 60 Pala.z, della Consulta 61 Palaz. Rospigliosi 62 Palaz. Colonna 63 SS. XII. Apostoli 64 Palaz. Muti Papazzurrl 65 Accademia di Francia 66 Palaz. Odescalco 67 S. Marcello 68 Palaz.^ Colonna Carbognano 69 Doga n a di Terra 70 S. M. in Aquiro 71 Seminario Romano, 7 2 Palaz. Giustiniani 73 Si Eustacliio 74 3. M. ad Martyri 75 Aocademia Ecelesiastica 76 S. M. so pi a Minerva 77 S. Tgnazio 78 S. M. in Via Lata 79 Palaz. Pan (ill 80 Palaz. D’Aste 81 Palaz. Altieri 82 Palaz. Mariscotti 83 Sinuate di S. Francesco 84 S. Andrea della Valle 85 S. Pantaleone 86 Palaz. Caraccioli 87 S. Lorenzo in Damaso 88 S. Maria di Monserratto 89 S. iomaso Colleg, Tnglese 90 S. Girolamo della Carita 91 Palaz. Farnese 92 Piazza di Caiupo di Fiore 93 Palaz. Pio 94 Sagro Monte di Pieta 95 SS. Trinita de Pellegrini References to the Plan of Rome . 96 Palaz. Spada 97 Palaz. S. Croce 98 S. Carlo a Cutenari 99 Palaz. Mattei 109 S. Nicola a Cesarini 101 Gesu 102 Paiaz di Venezia 108 S. Marco 104 Palaz. Bolognetti 105 Palaz. Bonelli 106 Colonna Trajana 107 S. Caterina di Siena 108 SS. Domenico e Sisto 109 S. Lorenzo in Pane e Perna 110 S. Pudenziana 111 S. Antonio Abe. 112 S. Presede 113 Area di Gallieno 114 S. Martino a Monti 115 S. Pietro in Vincolo 116 S. Franco, di Paola 117 SS. Cosmo e Damiano 118 S. Lorenzo in Miranda 119 S. Adriano 120 SS. Martino e Luca -121 Arco di Settimo Severo 122 S. M. d’Ara Celi 123 Palaz. del Museo Capito- iino 124 Residenza del Senatore 125 Palaz. de Conservatori 126 Palaz. Caffarelli 127 S. Franc. Roman a 128 S. M. in Portico .129 Palaz. Cenci 130 Ghetto degli Ebrei 131 Palaz. Orsini 132 S. M. della Consolazione 133 Arco di Tito 134 Arco di Constantino 135 S. Clemente 136 SS. Pietro e Marcellino 137 Anfiteatro Castrense 138 SS. Quattro Coronati 139 S. M. in Dominica 140 S. M. in Cosmedin 141 Arco detto di Gian© 142 S, M. Egiziaca 143 S Galla 144 S. Bartolomeo all’ Isola 145 S. Gio Cahbita 146 S. Cecilia ia in Trastevere 147 S. M. dell’ Orto 148 Ospizio Aplico di S. Mi® chele 149 S. Francesco a Ripa 1 50 SS. Cosmo e Damiano 151 S. Grisogno 152 S. Gallicano 153 S. Calisto 154 S M. in Trastevere 155 S. Pietro in Montorio 156 Bosco Parrasio 157 S. M. della Scala 158 Palaz. Corsini 159 S. M. Regina Celi 160 Palaz. Salviati 16 1 S. Onofrio 162 S. Spirito 163 S. M. Traspontina 164 Palaz. Giraud 16.5 Palaz. Cesi 166 S. Lorenzo in Piscibus 167 Palaz. del S. Ufizio 168 Seminario di S. Pietro 169 Palaz. Pontef. in Vatican© 170 S. M. delle Giazie 171 S. M. Maggiore 172 Coloseo 173 S. Giovanni in Laterally 174 Monte Testaccio 175 Porta S Paolo 176 Porta S. Sebastiano 177 Porta Latina 178 Porta S. Giovanni 179 Porta Maggiore 18 ) Porta S. Lorenzo 181 Porta Pia 182 Porta Salara 183 Porta Pmciana 184 Porta del Popolo 185 Porta Castello 186 Porta Angelica 187 Porta Cavalliggeri 1 88 Porta S. Pancrazio 189 Porta Portese. AD VERTISEMENT. IT is an observation, no less general than true, that those who acquire a knowledge of a modern language by the perusal of its classics and literary productions only, are frequently deficient in those terms which relate merely to common life ; numerous expressions made use of in our ordinary concerns and on topics of general conversation, are not to be obtained from such sources. French or Italian spoken by such a person, is a mere book-language , and not at all calculated to supply the wants of a traveller; being understood but with difficulty by a native . The present Dialogues in Eng- lish, French , and Italian , embrace almost every subject of immediate and daily interest in the commerce of life; particularly, those common interrogatories and replies, on sub- jects that are as necessary to be asked and answered, as to do those offices to which they relate, viz. to eat, drink, and sleep, — and clothed in the genuine phraseology of the present day. u %* For the use of those who are not acquainted with the Italian language, we prefix the Sounds of their Letters, according to the English pronunciation. For farther information on this subject, we refer the reader to a most excellent little Grammar, called, “ Acci- dence of the Italian Tongue,” prefixed to the last edition, (1815,) of Graglia’s New Pocket Dictionary, in Italian and English, an indis. peusable work to every one who is learning Italian, or travelling in Italy. Letters. A B C D E F G H I J L M N O P Q II S T U V z English Sounds. as in Avar, all. bell, able. before a, o, u, h, or a consonant, as in call, claw% before e and i as in urchin, child. as in * do, adder. pen, men. father, flock, before a, o, u, h, or a consonant, as in game, grant. before e and i, as in gin, geometry. is a mere sign, and is never sounded in Italian. as in • index, idiom. like y in yield, yellow. as in love, libel. man, woman, anon, nun. obscure, born, pamper, pepper, quack, queen, rod, rear, sea, session, title, totter, full, bull, vein, vivify. Fitzroy, fits, and like ds as in Windsor. K and W are used only in foreign names. C supplies K, and IV is changed into U, before a vowel, and V, before a consonant. X i» commonly changed into s and ss, and sometimes cc, Ph becomes/, as in philosophy, flosoftcu DIALOGUES XN ENGLISH, FRENCH, AND ITALIAN, ADAPTED TO TRAVELLING. Expressions of po- liteness. Would you have th( kindness to lend rat this book ? Be so good as to show me this note ? You are too kind. You are too good. I give you a thou sand thanks. Have you said that? Excuse me, (T beg your pardon) I have not said it. I shall not go before you on any account. You command then. You don’t allow then. Good morrow, sir ! How do you dp, sir r Expressions of Politeness . Formule di civiltiL Formules de poli- tesse. Auriez-vous la bont£ de me prefer ce livre ? Voulez-vous bien me montrer ce billet ? Vous avez trop de bonte. Vous etes trop bon (tres bonne). Je vous rends mitle graces. Avez-vous dit cela ? Pardonnez-moi (je vous demande pardon ) je ne Vai pas dit. Je ne passerai point devant vous. Cela es t impossible. Votts Vordonnez done. Vous me le defendez done. Monsieur, je vous sou- haite le bon jour. Comment vous portez- vous ? _ Avrebbe la com- piacenza di prestarmi questo libro ? Vorrebbe mostrarmi quel biglietto ? Troppa bonta sua, Ella e troppo cortese. Gliene rendo milte grazie. 'E lei che ha dett® questo ? La scusi (le demand® scusa) io non l’ho detto. Io no passerd certo innanzi a lei. Quest’ £ impossible. Ella vuol dunque cosi. Non melo vuol dun« que pernaettere. Ben levato. Come sta ? 4 Very well, at your service. Not very well. 1 rejoice at it. I am very sorry for i-t. Lam obliged to you. Farewell, sir. Good night to you, sir. I take my leave most devotedly. N.B. In the dia- logues will be found many other expres- sions of politeness, made use of in society. The Months of the Year . January. February. March. April. May. June. July. August. September. October. November. December. The Days of the Week. Sunday. Monday. Tuesday. Wednesday. Thursday. Fiiday. Saturday. Days of the Week . Tres-bitn,a votre ser- vice. Pas trop bien. J'en suis ravi. J'en suis bien f ache. Je vous remercie. Adieu Monsieur. Monsieur, je vous sou- haite le bon seir. Pai Vhonneur de vous saluer. N. B. On trouvera dans les dialogues toutes les autres formules de politesse qui sont d’ usage dans 1st societe. Les Mois de FAn- nee. Janvier . Fevrier. Mars. AvriL Mai. Juin. Juillet. Aout. Septembre. Octobre. Novembre. Decembre. Les jours de la Se- maine. Dimanche. Lundi. Mardi. Mercredi. Jendi. Vendredi. Sarnedi . Bene per ubbidirla. Non troppo bene. Quanto mi fa pia- cere ! Me ne rincresce. La ringrazio. Addio, Signor. Notte felice. Ho Thonore di rive- rirla. N.B. Ne’ dialoghi, che seguono, si trove- ranno tutte l’altre for- mule di civil conveni- enza, che son ora usi- tate nella buona socie- ta. I Mesi dell 9 Anno . Gennajo. Febrajo. Marzo. Aprile. Maggio. Giugno. Luglio. Agosto. Settembre. Ottobre. Novembre. Decembre. I Giorni della Set - timana . Domenica. Lunedi. Martedi. Mercoledi Giovedi. Venerdi. Sabbato. Numbers. One. Two. Three. Four. Five. Six. Seven. Eight. Nine. Ten. Eleven. Twelve. Thirteen. Fourteen. Fifteen. Sixteen. Seventeen. Eighteen. Nineteen. Twenty, Twenty one. Twenty two. Twenty three. Twenty four. Twenty five. Twenty six. Twenty seven. Twenty eight. Twenty nine. Thirty. Thirty one. Thirty two, etc. Forty. Forty one. Forty two, etc. Fifty. Fifty one. Fifty two, etc. Sixty. Sixty one. Sixty two, etc. Sixty nine. Seventy. Seventy one. Seventy two, etc. Seventy nine. Eighty. Numbers . Les Nombres. Un. Deux. Trois. Quatre . Cinq. Six. Sept. Huit. Neuf. Dix. Ouze . Home, Treize. Quatorze. Quinze. Seize. Dix-sept. Dix-huit. Dix- neuf. Vingt. Vingt et un. Vingt-deux. Vingt- trois. Vingt-quatre. Vingt-cinq. Vingt-six. Vingt-sept. Vingt-huit. Vingt-neuf. Trente. Trente et un. Trente-deux, etc. Quarante. Quarante et un. Quarante-deux, etc. Cbiquanie. Cinquante et un. Cinquunte-deuj, etc. Soixante. Soi Xante et un. Soixante-deux, etc. Soixante-neif. Soixante-dix. Soixante- onze. Soixante-douze, etc. Soixante-d ix-neuf. Quatre-vingt. 3 3 I Numeric Uno. Due. Tre. Quattro, Cinque. Sei. Sette. Otto. Nove. Died. Undid. Dodici. Tredici. Quattordici. Quindici., Sedici. Diciassetle. Didotto. Diciannove. Vend. Ventuno. Ventid-ue. Vent'i-tre. Vend- quattro* Vend cinque* Venti-sei. Vend -sette, Ventotto. Venti-nove. Trenta. Trentuno. Trenta-due, etc* Quaranta. Quarantuno. ^u<\ranta-due, etc, Oinquanta. Cinquantuno. Cinquanta-due, etc. Sessanta. Ssssantuno. Sessanta-d ne, etc* Sessanta-nove. Settanta.* Settantuno. Settanta-due, etc# Settanta-nove. Oltanta. 6 Inquiries before entering on a Journey » Eighty one. Eighty two, etc. joinery. .Ninety one, etc. Ninety nine. Hundred. Two hundred. Thousand. Ten thousand. A million. Quatre-vingt-un. Quatre-vingt-deux , etc. Quatre-vingt-dix. Quatre-vingt-onze, etc. Quatre-vingt-dix-ncuJ. Cent. Deux cents . Mi L,le. Dix milles. Million. Ottantuno. Ottanta due, etc. Novanla. Novantuno, etc. Novanta nove. Cento. Due cento (dugenlo). Mille. Dieci mila. 1 U n milione. DIALOGUES. Some previous In- quiries before en- tering upon a Journey . How many leagues or German miles is it from iience to - . • . Is the road good ? It is neither good nor very bad. Tt is pretty good. It is bad. It is shocking. Pray what sort of road is it ? it is very sandy. It is intermingled with rocks. It is full of moun- tains, forests, and pre- cipices. Is the road broad ? Yes pretty broad, very broad. No rather narrow. Are there rails on the side ? DIALOGUE I. Informations rela- tives a un projet de Voyage. Combicn y a-t-il de lieues franchises, ou de milles d'Allemagne (V ici d • • • • Le chemin est-il beau ? 11 n'est ni beau ni tres-manvais . 11 est assez beau. 11 est mauvais. II est affreux. De quel genre est le chemin 2 II est tres-sablon- neux. II est parsemd de ro- chers. 11 est rempli de mon- tagnes, de Jbrets, de precipices. Le chemin est-il large ? Oui assez large , oui tres-large. Non, assez Strait. Y a-t-il des parapets ? . Infornmzioni rela- tive al progetlo dun Viaggio. Quante leghe fran- cesi, o tcdesclie ci sou di qui a- • • • E' buona strada ? Non e troppo buona, ma neppur molto cat- tiva. E' assai buona. E' cattiva. E' detestabiie. Com’ e questa slra* da? E' molta sabbia. E' molto pietrosa. E' piena di mon- tagne, di selve, e di precipizj. E' larga la strada ? Si, assai larga, molto larga. N o, alquanto stretta. Sonovi de’ para- petti ? Inquiries You pass a very long turnpike-road. The road is full of deep ruts. The country you pass through is quite flat. Through how many towns do you pass ? Is there any thing remarkable or interest- ing in these towns ? What are the chief manufactures in these towns ? Are there any good inns upon the road ? They are tolerable. There are some good and bad. Could you oblige me so far as to point out the best of them ? Will you be so kind as to mark this down in my pocket book ; here is a lead (or pa ^ per) pencil. Are the ways safe ? You must take care not to travel in the forests at night-fall, or in the night-time. Are you speedily at- tended on the stages of this road ? They are very slow in this respect, as is the case in all Ger- many, and you are frequently obliged to wait for the horses. How much must you pay for each horse ? before entering on a Vous traverserez une longue chauss£e. Le ch ernin est pie in d'ornieres. Le pays que Von par- court est absolument plat. Par combien de viiles passe-t-on ? Ces viiles offrent-elies quelque chose de curieux ou d' inter essant a, voir ? Quelles sont les manu- factures principales de ces viiles ? Trouve-t-on de bon- nes auberges sur ceiie route ? Elies sont passables. II y en a de bonnes tt de mauvaises. Aui’iez-vous la bonit de m'indiquer les meil- Itures ? Voulez-vous bien 6- crire cela sur mon jour- nal, (ou mon portefeuii- le ) ; void un crayon. Les routes sont elles sures ? Ilfaut 6viter de tra- verser les Jorets au de- clin du jour, ou durant la nuit. Les posies sont-elles hien servies sur cette route ? Tres-lentement, com- me dans toute V Alle- magne, et Von est sou- vent oblige d'attendre les chevaux. Combien doit-on pa- yer pour chaquc chcval ? Journey . 7 Ella passera un’ ar- gine lungo. La strada e piena di profoude rotaje. II tralto di paese che si percorre e asso- lutamente piano. Per quante citta si passa? Queste citta offrono qualche cosa di cur.io- so, o d'interessante da. vedere ? Quale sono le prin- cipal manifatture di queste citta ? Trovansi de’ buoni. alberghi (delle buone locande, osterie) su. questa. strada ? Sono passabili; Ve ne sono delle buone, e delle cattive. Vorrebbe aver la compiacenza d’indL- carmi le migliori ? Yorrebb’ ella scri- vermi cio sul mio gior- nale (o taccuino) j ecco un toccalapis. E' sicura la strada ? Convien evitare di traversar le selve al declinar del giorno, oppur durante la none. Le poste vengon esse servite bene per questa strada ? Assai lentamente, come in tutta la Ger- mania, e bisogna spesso aspettar i cavalli. Quanto convien pa- gare per cavalio l 8 Inquiries before entering on a Journey . How much must you give to the postil- Jions ? How much must you give for getting your carriage-wheels greas- ed or oiled ? How much do two hackney horses cost on a journey of five days? and what must ,you give to the driver ? Pray, what might be the expence of a car- riage with three, four or six hackney horses from hence to* • • • ? Pray how much fnight it cost to go in a post-chaise with the same number of horses ? How much might it cost to go thither by the common stage ? I know there are two different roads,, to go hence to Which is the better way? I don’t under- stand by the best the shoi testy but that which is in the best condi- tion. How many leagues must you go about ? Is the high road paved ? Is the pavement in good repair ? Are there any rivers Or lakes to cross over ? Are you obliged to cross them in ferry boats ? Are - these boats spacious, and safe ? I’ll go on horseback. How much would a Combien donne-t-oi. aw postilions ? Combien donne-t-or, pour faire gfaisser la voiture ? Combien content deux chepaux de louage pout un voyage de cinq jours r et que doit-on donner au cocher? Combien pourra me cotiter une voiture et trois, ou quatre, ou six chevattx de louage pour alter d’ici a* • • • ? Combien m’en coute- ra-l-il pour y alter en paste avec le memeuom - bre de chevaux ? Combien m'en coute- ra-t-il pour y oiler par les voitures publiques ? Je sais qu’il y a deux routes difftrentes pour alter d’ici a* « • • Quelle est la meilleure ? J’a- pelle la meilleure non la mohis longue, mais celle qni a le plus beau chemin. Combien faudra-t-il faire de lieues de tra- verse ? La grande route est- elle pavde ? Le pave est-il bon ? Faudra-t-il passer des rivieres, ou des lacs ? Faudra-t-il passer des bacs? Ces bacs sont-ils grands et bans ? J’iraiaoheval. Com- fiien me coutera un Quanto si da ai pos- tiglioni ? Quanto si paga per far unger le ruote ? Quanto si paga per due cavalli da nolo ia cinque giorni di viag- gio ? e quanto si suoi dar al cocchiere ? Quanto mi potrebbe costare un legno (una vettura) con tre, quat- tro, o sei cavalli da nolo per andare a. * •> Quanto mi costereb- be per andarci col la posta, e coilo stesso numero di cavalli ? A quanto mi verreb- be la spesa andandoci col la vettura di posta ? Io so che ci sona due strade difFerenti per andare di qui a** Qual’ e la migliore? Io cliiamo la migliore non gia. la meno lunga,. ma quella che e nel miglior stato. Di quante miglia s’aliunga? La strada maestra e selciata ? E' buono il selciato ? Bisognera passar de* fiumi, de’ laghi? Bisognerii passarvi con barchetti? Questi barchetti son, essi-grandi e buoni ? Anderd a cavalio. Quanto mi costera ua Inquiries before entering on a Journey. 9 hired horse cost, for this journey ? I’ll take only a small cloak- bag with me. Are you required to pay toll at bridges and turnpikes ? What is there tb pay at each turnpike ? I shall perform the journey on foot. I should like to meet with a return-chaise. What might the ex- pence of a return- chaise come to ? For my servant and myself? or for myself alone ? In how many days shall we perform this journey ? I find he asks too much, I shall give no more than • • • • , Is the carriage con- venient and in good repair ? Is it covered ? Is it hung upon springs or leather ? how many places does it contain ? Is there a locker, net-work, and pockets in it ? Can you put a cloak-bag or a port- manteau in it ? Can you put a harp with its case upon the top ? Has this carriage a trunk ? We must first get the carriage repair- ed-. cheval de ■ louage pour ce voyage ? Je n'aurai qu'un pe- tit porte-munteau. Faudra-t-il s'arrcter aux pouts et aux bar- ritres pour payer quel- que chose ? Que doit-ou donner a chaque barriere ? Je ferai le voyage a pied. Je voudrois trouver une voiture de renvoi » Que m.en coutera-t-il pour alter en voiture de renvoi ? Pour mon domestique et pour moi ? ou pour moi tout seul ? En combien de jours ferons-nous ce voyage? Je trouve qu’il de- mande trop, je ne veux donner que • • • • La voiture est-elle commode et solide? Est-elle couverte ? est-elle suspend ue ?— combien de places con - tient-elle ? A-t-elle une cave, un filet , des poches ? Peut-on y mettre une malle ou un porte-man- teau ? Pourra-t-on mettre une harpe dans son etui sur Vimpdriale ? Cette voiture art-elle une vachc ? It faut faire raccom- moder cette voiture, bien soiidement. cavallo da nolo per questo viaggio ? Io non avro che un piccolo portamantello, o una piccola valigia. Sara necessario di ferinarsi ai ponti ed alle barriere, per pagar jqualche cosa? Quanto' si deve pa- gare ad ogni barriera ? 10 faro il viaggio a, piedi. Avrei piacer di tro- vare qualche legno di ritorno. Quanto mi potra co- stare per andar con un ritorno ? Per me, e per il mio servo ? o per me solo ? In quanti giorni fa- remo noi questo viag- gio ? Mi pare, che doman- di troppo, io non vog- lio dare che - • • • 11 legno e egli co- modo, e sicuro ? E* coperto ? sospeso ? quanti posti contiene ? Contien esso una cantinetta, una rete, e delle tasche ? Si puo collocarvi una valigia o un porta mantello ? Si potra mettervi un’ arpa nella sua cassa suli’ imperiale? Ha il legno una va- che ? . Bisogna far racco- modar bene questo legno. 10 I should like to send' my harp and port- manteau by the wag- gon. Ought I not to get a stamp put upon my portmanteau, trunk, or this chest ? What is to be paid for the stamp ? I should wish to hire a servant for this jour- ney ; could you inform me of one ? Will you be an- swerable for him ? Has he any one responsible for his conduct ? Is his character ge- nerally known ? Let him come in ; I ^ill interrogate him myself. With a Valet de Place . Are you disposed to enter into my service, during the time I shall stay in this town? or in this country ? Will you go with me to*»and perform the journey along with me to • • • • ? I shall stay here for some days, weeks, or months. I shall be eight days, a fortnight, or three weeks, upon the road. Have you perform- ed this journey before ? 7 ith a Valet de Pla< Je voudrois faire met - tre ma malle, ou ma harpe d la diligence. Ne faut-il pas que je fasse plomber ma malle , ou man c off re, ou cette caisse ? Qu’est-ce que cela coute ? Je voudrois bien avoir un domestique de louage pour faire ee voyage ; pourriez vous m'en enseigner un ? M’en rdpondrez-vous ? a-t‘il de bons repon- dans ? Est-ce un homme connu ? Faites-'l’entrer ; je I’interrogerai moi-meme. DIALOGUE II. Avec le Domesti- que de Louage. Voulez-vous entrer a mon service pendant le temps que je resterai dans cette ville ? ou dans ce pays ? Voulez-vous me suivre «••••, et faire le voy- age de • • • • avec moi ? Je sejournerai ici quel- ques jours, quelques se- mahies, quelques mois, Je serai liuit jours, quinze jours, trois se- maines en route. Avez-vous deja fait ce voyage ? Io vorrei far metter la mia arpa, e la mia valigia, alia diligenza. Non devo io far si- gillare (piombare, met- teri piombini) alia mia valigia, al mio baule, o alia mia cassa ? Quanto si paga per questo ? Desiderei aver un servo di piazza per far questo viaggio ; non me ne potrebb’ ella in- dicar alcuno ? Me ne sta ella ga- rante? ha egli delie buone sicurta ? E' questi una per- sona cognita ? Lo faccia entrare, l’interrogherd io stesso. Col Servo di Pi - azza. Avreste voglia d*en- trare al mio servizio, du- rante il tempo, ch’ io re- stero in questa citta ? o in questo paese ? Volete seguirmi sino a - • • «e far con me il viaggio di. • • • ? Mi tratterro qui, al- cuni giomi, alcuneset- timane, alcuni mesi. Io staro otto giomi, quindici giorni, tre set« timane per viaggio. Avete gia fatto ques* to viaggio ? 11 With a Valet de Place. Do you speak French, German, Eng- lish, and Italian, flu- ently ? Do you understand Danish, Swedish, Po- lish, Russian ? Do you speak Spa- nish and Portuguese? Do you write a good hand ? Which is your na- tive country ? How old are you? Are you married ? Whaf is your wife’s occupation? Does she follow any trade ? Have you any chil- dren ? Can you manage a horse ? Are you fit for a courier ? Are you well ac- quainted with the monies of the coun- tries we shall pass through ? Have you any res- ponsible person, or written character ? What wages do you ask ? How much do you ask by the day or week ? That’s too much. I can give you no more than* •••but I will provide your meals ; or I will give you* •••and I’ll give you board-wages. Come again to-mor- row; you shall have a final answer. Well, I give you my word for it, and take Parlez-vous facile- ment Francois, Alle- mand, Anglois, ltalien? Savez-vous le Danois ? le Suedois ? le Polonois ? le Busse ? Savez-vous I’Espag- nol , le Portugais ? Savez-vous bien ecri- re ? De quel pays etes- vous ? quel age avez- vous ? Etes-vous marie ? Que fait votre fem- me ? a-t-elle un metier ? Avez-vous des en- fans ? Montez-vous a clie- val ? Courez-vous bien la poste ? Connoissez-vous bien les monnoies des pays que nous parcourrons ? Avez-vous bien des repondans , des certifi- cats ? Quels gages deman - dez-vous? Gombien vou- lez-vous par jour ou par semaine ? Cela est bien cher. Je ne puis vous don- ner que^.^mais je vous noumrai. Ou bien je vous donnerai..et vous vous nourrirez. Revenez demain, vous aurez une dernier e re- 1 ponse. Eh bien , je vous donne ma parole et je Parlate voi con faci- lita il Francese, il Te- desco, l’lnglese, l’lta- liano ? Sapete voi il Da- nese, lo Svedese, il Po« lonese, il Russo ? Sapete lo Spagnolo, il Portoghese ? Sapete bene scrivere ? Di che paese siete ? che eta avete ? (quanti anni avete ?) Siete (raaiitato?) Che fa vostra mog- lie ? esercita qualche mestiere ? Avete figlj ? Sapete cavalcare ? Fate ben il corriere per posta ? Conoscete bene le monete dei paesi che andrera percorrendo J Avete delle cauzi- oni ? dei certificati (ben serviti) ? Che salario doman* date ? Quanto volete per giornoj o per setti- mana ? Quest’ d ben mol- to. Non posso darvi che • • • «ma vi faro anche le spese. Oppur vi. daro* • • - e vi nutrirete a vostri conta (da voi stesso). . Ritornate dimani, e avrete la mia risposta definitiva. Ebbene, vi do la mia parola, e ricevo la 12 yours. Go and fetch your bundle, and re- turn. I inform you be- fore-hand, I will not have you trust to me- mory ; I shall pay for every thing at the time it is had. You must give me, every evening, an exact ac- count of every thing you have laid out for me. If you answer my expectations and serve me well, you may rest assured, that over and above the agreement ■we have made togeth- er, you shall receive a handsome gratuity from me. On going by Water. When shall we go on board ? Is there room in the vessel or boat for my carriage ? If we have favour- able weather, how long may our passage last? What would the ex- pence of a whole gon- dola, or vessel for my ? - self alone, amount to? What does a place in the vessel cost P Are the pilots and vessels good ? On going by Water. recois la votre. Allez- cherclter votre paquet et revenez. Je vous previens que je ne veux point de me- moir e , je veux payer a mesure , e'est-a-dire cha- que jour vous me donne- rez chaque soir la note dttaillee de ce que vous aurez debourse pour moi. Si, eommeje Vesper e, vous me servez bien , i vous pouves tire sur qu’ outre le mar cine que nous avonsfait, vous re- cevrez une bonne grati- fication. DIALOGUE I'll. Pour tin Voyage par Eau ou par Mer. Quand faudra-t-il s- embarquer ? Ma voiture pourra-t-\ el-le tenir dans le bateau ou le batiment ? Si nous avons un temps favorable, com- bien durera notre navi- gation ? Combien me coutera une gondole entiere, ou le batiment a, moi seal ? Combien cerate une place sur ce bailment? Les pilotes et les bati- mens sont-ils bous ? tra. Andate a premier le vostre cose, e ritor- nate. Vi prevengo, che io non voglio- avere conti lunghi. Io voglio pa- gare volta per volta ; ogni sera mi presente- rete la nota dettagliata di quel che avrete sbor~ sato per me. Se, come io spero^ mi servirete bene, po- tete esser sicuro, che oltre il contratto, che abbiamo fatto, riceve- rete ancora una buona mancia. In un viaggio per Acqua , o per Mare . Quando bisognera imbarcarsi ? Potra il mio legno restar in barca, o in bastimento ? Avendo un tempo fa- vorevole, quanto dufe- ra la nostra naviga- zione ? Quanto mi coster a una gondola intiera, o un naviglio per me solo ? Quanto si paga per un posto su questo na- viglio ? I piloti, ed i navigli sono buoai ? How ranch must you pay for the passage ? There are three of us ; we are two ; I am alone. How much must 1 pay for the small cabin, for myself? How much ought I to give, for the large cabin, with the rest of the passengers ? How many passen- gers have you ? Are there any ladies among the number ? How many persons does your whole crew consist of? Is the captain a clever man? Which are said to be the best ships and captains, in this har- bour? What fare are we to expect? It will be but very indifferent. You will only get smoked and salt meat, potatoes and cheese. I advise you to take some provisions of your own, along with you. This is, in par- ticular, necessary for old men, wonran and children. What sort of provi- sions shall I take ? Lemons, good prunes, (both very whole- some, particularly at sea,) barley grains, rice, vermicelli, good In going by fValer. Combien fo'ui d d mi- ner d’ argent pour le pas- sage ? Nous sommes trois ; nous sommes ' deux ; je suis stul. Combien m'en coute- ra-t-il pour avoir la petite chambre a mol seul ? Et combien faut-il donner quand on est dans la grande chambre avec tons les autres pas- sagers ? Combien avez-vous de passagers ? Dans ce nombre se trouve-t-il des femmes ? De combien d’hommes Vequipage est-il com- pose ? Le capitalize a-t-il la reputation d’etre habile ? i Quels sont dans ce port les vaisseaux et les capitaines qui passent pour etre les meilleurs ? Comment serons-nous nourris ? Assez mal, Vous n\iu- rez que de la viande fumee et salte, des pommes de terre, et du frontage. Je vous con- seille d'emporter quel- ques provisions particu- lieres, ce qui est surtout bien nccessaire pour les vieillards, les femmes et les enfans. Quelles provisions do- is-je emporter ? Des citrons, de bons pruneaux, des alimens Jtres sains, surtout en mer ; de Vorge? du vjs, du vermicelli? de bon] 13 Quanto si paga per il passaggio ? Siamo in tre; in due ; io son solo, Cosa mi potra cos- tare per aver io solo la cajuta (lo stanzino)? E cosa si da, restan- do nella stanza grande con tutti gli altri pas. sagieri ? Quanti passagieri a. vete ? Ci son pur delle donne fra questi? Di quant’ uomini e composto I’equipaggio? II capitano passa egli per un uomo di capacita ? Quali sono in queste porto i vascelli, e i capitani che sono in credito d’esser i mig- liori * Come saremo noi spesat i ? Mol to male. Ella non avrii che della carne affumata e sal- ata, de’ porai di terra, e del forma ggio,. Le consiglio di portar seco qualche provvisipne particolare : cio che e sopra tutto necessario per i vecchj, le donne, ed i fariciulli. Che provvisione dov* ro io portar iueco ? De’ limoni, delle buone prugne, due ali- inenti molto sani, sopra tutto per mare. ; dell? orzo, del riso, de’ ver- n board a Ship or Yacht . miel, du sucre, des sirups rafraichissans, des con- fitures, de la gelte de bouillon, on en trouve d'eicellented Hambourg et a Berlin, et qui se con- serve tres-long-temps. Enfin si le voyage doit etre long, il faut em- porter aussi des poules vivantes, de la biere, du porter et du vin. N’ou- bliez pas de porter des drops et des couver- tures . Quel jour partira-t- on, si le vent le per- met ? A quelle lieure parti- rons-nous ? Je sei'ai pret, vous y ponvez compter . micelli, del buon miele, del zucchero, de’gli. sci- roppi rinfrescanti, de” confetti, delle gelatine ; se ne trovano de’gli ec- cellenti in Amburgo, a Berlino, e che si con- servano lungo tempo. In fine, se il viaggio dev* esser lungo, bi- sogna portar seco de’ polli vivi, della hirra, del porter, e del vino. Non si dimentichi di portar seco delle len- zuola, e delle coperte. Che giorno si par- tira, se il vento lo per- mette ? A che ora partirenuK noi? Io sard in pronto, po tete star sicuro. On honey, sugar, cooling syrups, conserves, and portable soup, which is to be had genuine and good at Berlin and Hamburgh ; and keeps a long time. If you are going a long voyage, you must take along with you a stock of live poultry, beer, porter, and wine. Don’t forget to provide yourself with sheets and bed-covers. When shall we set sail, if the wind per- mits ? At what hour shall we set sail? I shall be in readi- ness ; you may depend upon it. On board a Ship or Yacht . Is the wind fair ? I think we shall have a storm ; what is your opinion ? I am very sick. Lay yourself flat up- on your belly; shut your eyes; remain in that quiet posture, and your sickness will a- bate. I suffer extremely ; I am unwell, pray, hand me a bason. DIALOGUE IV. Pour parler dans un Vaisseau ou dans un Yacht. Le vent est-il bon ? Je crois que nous au- rons un orage, quen pensez-vous ? J’ai bien mal au coeur, Couchez-vcus tout u plat, ferme z les yeux, tenez-vous bien tranquil- le, et vous serez beau- conp moins malade. Je sou fire eitr erne- merit. Je vais vomir, donnez-moi le vase. Per parlare in un Vascello o m un Jachetto, E buono il vento ? lo credo che avremo un temporale ; che ne dice ? Mi sento assai male. Si metta bocconi, chiuda gli occhi, ri- raanga quieto, e si sentira molto menu in- disposto. Io soflfro estrema- mente, ho voglia di vornitare, dateini il ba- cino» 15 On board a Ship or Yacht . I advise you to take a few ethereal drops, which are a sovereign remedy for sea-sickness. How am I to take these ethereal drops ? You must pour out from fifteen to twenty- two drops into a spoon, on a small lump of su- gar. Here is the vial with the drops. Pray be so kind as to pour out eighteen or twenty of these drops. My head and loins pain me very much ; I am all over shiver- ing* . . This is a consequence of sea-sickness ; you must not be under any apprehension on that account. I grow squeamish at the smell of tar., Apply some drops of four thieves vine- gar, or Cologne water to your nose, and burn some juniper berries. Nicer or sweeter scents are rather noxious on board. The greatest cleanli ness ought to be ob- served on board. Your chamber ought to be swept in the morning and evening. The wind grows much stronger. Je vous conseille de prendre un peu d’ ether, e’est un remede souve- rain contre le vial d( mer ; on des gouttes dc Hofmann. Comment prend-t-on l' ether ? On en prend depuis quinze juisq ’ a vingt- deux gouttes, versees sur un petit morceau de sucre, mis dans une cu- rlier e. Void le flacon d'- ether. Versez-en,je vou prie, dix-huit ou vingt gouttes. J'ai mal a la tete et reins ; fai le frisson. C'est I'effet du mal de mer, cela ne doit pas vous inquidter. Uodeur du goudron me fait mal au coeur. Bespirez ou du vinai- gre des quatre voleurs, ou de Lean de Cologne, etfaites brulerdes grains de genievre. Desodeurs plus recherchees et plus agreables feroient beau- coup de mal dans un vaisseau. lifaut dans un vais- seau la plus grande pro- pretd II. faut faire balayer la chambre matin et soir. Le vent devient bien fort ; Le consiglio di pren- der un poco d’etere ; e il miglior rimedio (e uno specifico) contro il mal di mare; oppur prend a del liquor ano- dino di Hofmann. Come si prende l'« etere ? Se ne prendono da quindici a venti due goccie, sopra un pez- zetto di zucchero posto in un cucchiaio. Ecco la boccetta dell’ etere. Ne versi, la prego, dieciotto, o venti goc- cie. Ho male di testa e nei reni; ho dei brividi febbriJi. Quest’ e 1* effeto del mal di mare, cio non la deve inquietare. L’ odor del catrame mi sconvolge lo sto- maco. Odori dell’ aceto de* quattro ladroni, oppur dell’ acqua di Cologna, e faccia bruciare de* grani diginevro. Degli odori piu ricercati, e piu aggradevoli fareb- bero molto male in un vascello. In un bastimento convien osservare la maggior pulizia. Bisogna ffir coppare la camera mattina e sera. Il vento divien molto forte. 16 On board a Ship or Yacht . What a dreadful storm ! Do you think there is any danger ? Don’t be afraid; there is no danger. Does the wind con- tinue to be so contrary, or bad ? I have the tooth-ach. That happens fre- quently at sea. You must take care, not to expose yourself to the damps of the morning and evening air. You jnust frequently chew cochJearia and sage leaves. Wash your mouth with brandy mixed with camphire, and in short take great care of your teeth. Take care to have your room aired as much a,s possible. At what hour do they dine ? Let us walk about. Be so hind as to open the window, or windows. Shut the door. This is a charming- gondola. This is a handsome yacht. Let us make a dish of tea. We must light a fire. Get us some boiling water. In what time shall we arrive ? Shall we arrive soon ? Quelle terrible tern - ; pete ! Croyez-vous qu’ily ait du danger ? N'ayez-pas peur , il n'y a point de danger. Le vent est-il toujour s aussi contraire, aussi mauvais ? J ai mal aux dents. Cela arrive souventl sur mer. Jl fan t eviter de s’y exposer d l humi- dity du matin et du soir. II faut macher souvent du cochlearia et de la petite sauge , se laver la bouche avec de l' eau-de- vie camphree, et enfn avoir un soin particular da ses dents. Ayez soin de donner de fair a la chambrt toute la journde le plus : que vous pourrez. A quelle heure dine- t-on ? Promenons-nous. Otivrez, s'il vous plait, la fenetre, ou les f ent- ires. Fermez la porte. Cette gondole est char- mante. Ce yacht est beau. Faisons du thy. II faut allumer le feu. II faut de Vtau bouil- lante. A quelle heure arrive- rons-nous ? Arriverons nous bien- tot? Che terribile tdm- pesta ! Crede ella, che vi sia del pericolo ? IKon abbia paura, non c’ e Verun peri- colo. II vento e sempre an- cor cosi contrario, o cosi cattivo? Ho mal di denti. Questo accadeva spesso sul mare. Con- vien badare di non es- porsi all’ umidita la raattina, e la sera. Bi- sogna spesso masticare della coclearia, e delle foglie di salvia, e sci- acquarsi la bocca con dell’ acqua-vite can- forata, in una parola, aver cura. particolare de* suoi denti. Abbia attenzione di lasciar entrare durante il giorno deli’ aria fresca nella camera, quanto mai potra. A che ora si pranza ? Andiamo a spasso. Fayorisca d’aprir la finestra, o le finestre. Cbiurla la porta. Questa gondola e graziosissima. Questo jachefto e bello. Facciamo del te. Bisogna accender il fuoco. Bisogna avere dell’ acqua bollente. A che ora giungere- mo noi ? Arriveremo noi beo? tosto i On crossing • the Water in a Fray, about what time shall we arrive? Is not that land we see yonder ? Is the mouth of the harbour safe? Shall we run in at high water ? Shall we be obliged to quit the ship, and go into the boats ? Yes, we must go in the boats. Gently, gently. You must not jump down with such violence into the boat, or you will overset it. There are too many people in the boat, and too much luggage ; the luggage must be left on board. I will only take my bundle of night-clothes al >ng with me. Shall we be searched on landing by the cus- tom-house officers? Dans combien de temps a-peu-pres ? N’est-ce pas la terre que nous voyons Id bas ? L'entrde da port est- elle bonne ? Entrerons-nous avec la marie ? Serons-nous obliges de quitter le bdtiment et de descendre duns des cha- loupes ? Oui, ilfaut oiler dans les ehaloupes. Doucement, douce- ment. 11 nefaut pus st jetter ainsi dans la cha- loupe , on la fera cha- I viper. II y a trap de monde dans la ehaloupe, et sur- tout trop de paquets il faut laisser les paquets dans le vaisseau. Je n'emporte que mon paquet de nuit . Sera-t-on visite par les commis en debar- quant ? On crossing the Water in a Fer- ry-boat \ Coachman, or post- boy, stop, I want to alight, before we go into the ferry-boat. 0 there is no danger, the horses are quiet. 1 tell you, I want to alight, and to get into the ferry-boat. DIALOGUE V. Pour passer dans un Bac. Cocker , ou postilion, arretez, je veux descen- dre avant d' entree dans le bac. Oh ! il n'y a pas de danger, les chevaux sont doux. Je veux descendre, vous dis-je, et entrer a pied dans le bac » Ferry . 17 In quanto tempo all* incirca ? Non e terra quella cbe noi vediamo lag- giu? L' enlrata nel porto e buona ? C’ entriamo noi colla marea ? Saremo noi obbligati di lasciar il bastimento* e di scender nelle scialuppe ? Si, bisogna andare nelle scialuppe. Adagio, adagio. Non bisogna gettarsi in tal guisa nella sciaiuppa* si pud nbaitare. Vi ba troppa gente nella scialuppa, e su- pra tutto troppo baga- glie ; convien lasciar le bagaglie nel vascello. Io non prendo meco die il mio sacco da uotte. Saremo noi nel sbar- care visitati dagli ispet- tori ? Per passare un ji~ ume Sopra una Chiatta, Cocchiere, o postig- lione, fermate, io vog- lio discendere prima d’ entrar sulla chiatta (sul battello). O non e’e pericolo, i cavalli son doeili. Io voglio’ discender, vi dico, ed entrar a piedi nella chiatta. 18 Inquiries on a Journey • Now I am in the ferry-boat, it is your turn to come in. Now take off the hor- ses from the carriage. The horses ought not to be 3 ’oked to the car- riage, in a ferry-boat. Why not ? Because nothing can be more dangerous. The indolence, which hinders us from un- yoking the horses, has caused a thousand un- happy accidents. The horses now be- ing taken off, we ma) get into the carriage again ; we shall be more at our ease there, than here ? How long will the passage last ? Twenty-two minutes. A quarter of an hour. Half an hour. Hold the horses, don’t leave them ; hold them fast by the bridle. Now we are arrived. Let us step out imme- diately. The carriagt and the horses may follow. A present que je suis dans le bac, venez d vo- tre tour. Maintenant ditelez vos chevaux. On ne doit pas dans un bac laisser les chevaux attelcs a la voiture. Pourquoi done ? C’est que ritn n'est plus dangereux. Et cette paresse qui ein- peche de dctelcr les chevaux, a cause mille fois des accidens fu - nestes. Puisque les chevaux sont detelds, nous pou- vons reinonter dans la voiture; nous y serous mieux qu’ici. Combien de temps faut-il pour passer ? Vingt-deux minutes . Un quart d'heure. Une demi-heure. Tenez les chevaux, ne les quittez point, et te nez-les par la bride. Nous voila arrives : nous allons d'abord de - barquer ,* ensuite la voiture et les chevaux Ora ch’ io son suTla chiatta, venite ancor voi. Ora staccate i caval- li. Non si deve gia sopra una chiatta las- ciar i cavalli attaccati alia vettura. Perche dunque ? Perche non n’e ni- ente di piu pericoloso. E questa negligenza di staccare i cavalli ha mille volte cagionato degli accidenli funesii. Ora che i cavalli son staccati, noi possia- mo risalir in vettura ; vi staremo meglio chs qui. Quanto ci metteremo per il passaggio ? Venti due minuti. Un quarto d’ora. Una mezz’ ora. Tenete i cavalli, e non li lasciate ; tene- teli per la briglia. Eccoci arrivati. Vo- gliam tosto discender a terra ; la vettura e i ca- valli ci seguiranno. Inquiries on a Journey , which cannot be other- wise performed than in a Sedan , or Chair , or on Mules. Is the road very bad ? DIALOGUE VI. Informations sur un V oy age qu’on ne peut faire qu’en Jitiere ou en Chaise a Por- teurs, ou sur des Mulets. Le chemin est-il bien effrayant? Injormazione a pro- posiio d’un vi- aggio che non si puo Jar che in Lettiga , o in Portantina , o so- pra del Muli . T1 cammino e egH poi cosi spaventevole ? 19 Inquiries on a Journey* Yes, it is very nar- row, and on the brink of precipices. How long is this journey ? Shall we sleep on the road at night ? How often ? How many porters shall I want ? How much do they get a day? How many mules must I have ? Pray he so kind as to look for some good poiters and mules for me. As you will perform a gieat part of this journey on foot, I ad- vise you to get a pair of good, stout and easy shoes made, and to take along with you an um- brella, parasol, some sheets, and eatables, as you will meet with but very indifferent quar- ters on this road. Do you know enough of the language of the country to converse with the porters ? We shall take an in- terpreter with us. That is not sufficient. You must be able your- self to order the porters to stop, to proceed more gently, &c. Well, T’ii learn for this purpose some phrases. That is all you stand in need of. Will you be so kind Oui, il est tres-etroit et horde de precipices. De quelle longcur est cette route ? Faudra-t-il coucher en route ? Combien defois ? Combien me faudra- t-il de porteurs ? Que leur donne-t-on par jour ? Combien faudra-t-il de mulcts .? Choisissez-moi,je vous prie, de bons porteurs, et de bons mulcts. Comme vous ferez dans ce voyage beaucoup de chemin a pied, je vous conseille de vous f iirefaire de bons sou - tiers, bien solides et bien commodes, et d'em- porter parapluie, para- sol, des drops etquelques comestibles ; car vousne trouvzrez sur cette route que de tresmauvis gifts. Saves-vous assez de la langue du pays pour etre en etat de parler aux porteurs ? Nous aurons un in- terprete avec nous. Cela ne suffit pas. II faut que vous puissitz vous-mcme ordonner aux porteurs d'arreter, d’al- Icr plus doucement , etc. Eh bien , je vais qp- prendre pour cela une douzuine de phrases. C'est tout ce qu'il faut. Voulez-vous avoir la Si, egli e mollo stret- to, e suli’ orio di pre- cipizj. Di che tratto e ques- ta strada ? Bisognera restar la notte per strada ? Quante volte? Quanti porratini nf abbisogneranno ? Quanto si da loro al giorno ? Quanti muli dovro io prendere ? Mi scelga, la prego* de’ buoni portatini, e dei buoni muli. Siccome ellain ques» to viaggio andera molto a piedi, io Je consiglio di farsi fare delle buone scarpe forti,ed assai co- mode, e di portar seco un paracqua, un orn- brello, delie Ienzu- ole, e de’ commesti- biii, poiche ella non. trovera su questa stra- da che degii alberghi molto cattivi. Sapete voi la lingua del paese quanto basta, per poter parlare con i portatori ? Avremo con noi un interprele. Questo non basta. Bisogna, che siate in stato di poter ordinure voi stesso ai portatori di fermarsi, d’ andar pm adagio, e cose simili. Ebbene, ip voglio imparare per questo una dozzina di frasi. Questo e quanto basta. Vuol* ella aver la 20 On speaking to the Postillion on the Road. as to bargain for me for some articles I want on the journey. With all my heart, r 1 shall be much o- bliged to you. On speaking to the Postillion on. the Road . Mind, boy, go on a good pace, where the road is good ; but be careful in turning, and likewise on bridges, and in towns and villages; if you do. I’ll reward you ; other- wise, I will pay you only for the chaise. Do you understand my meaning ? Well ! now let us set oft' ! Stop, postillion. Drive on faster ! the road is good, and you don’t get on. Drive more slowly. Leave the pavement and keep on the road. Don’t go so near that precipice, or river. Keep as far from the edge of the precipice, or river as you can. Stop, postillion, you must put drag-chains to the wheels. bonte defaire mon mar- ch c pour tons les arraii - gemens de ce voyage ? Tres-volontiers. Je vous en aurai bien de l' obligation. DIALOGUE VII. Pour parler en Route aux Pos- tillions dePcste. Ecoutez, postillion , allez, bon train dans le beau chemin, et douce- ment en tournant, on sur les pants, ou dans les villes et villages, et je vous donnerai bien pour boire, sin on je ne vous donnerai que I'or- donnance. M'entendez-vous bi- en ? Allons, a present par- tons. Postilion, arretez. Allez done miens. Ee chemin est beau, et vous n’ allez pas. Allez plus doucement. Quittez le pave et alltz sur la terre . N’allez done pas si pres du precipice, ou de la riviere. Eloignez-vous du bord du precipice ou de la riviere autant que vous pourrez. Postilion arretez- vous; itfaut enruyer. bonta. di far il mio con tratto per tutte le oc- correnze di questo vi- aggio ? Molto volontieri. Le ne sarb molto ob- ligato^ Per parlare sulla strada ai Postig - lionL Sentite, amico, dove c’ e strada buona an- date presto, ove c’ b da prender la voltata, o sopra i pouti, o nelle citta e nei villaggi an* derete piano, ed allura avrete una buona roan- cia ; altrimenti pern non avrete che quel che e fissato. M’ avete voi inteso ben P Andiamo adesso ; partiamo. Fermate, postigli- one ! Sollecitate piu la strada e buona, e voi non andate avanti. Andate piu adagio. Lasciate il selciato, ed andate sul terreno. Non andate cosi vi- cino al precipizio, o alia riva del fiume. Tenetevi lontano quanto potete dal pre- cipizio, o dal fiume. Postiglione fermate, bisogna fermare una ruota (metter il mozzo ad una ruota). 21 On speaking to the 'Postillion on the Hoad . Tt goes too fast down hill; I desire you to fasten the drag- chains on. Look behind one mi- nute, whether the mail be fast secured, and whether nothing be broke loose. I think the wheels will be set on fire ; pay attention to them, and take notice whe- ther the carriage has suffered any damage. Drive on, postillion, we don’t move. . Postillion, don’t turn into any bye-road. 1 insist upon it ; I won’t leave tire high road. But I wanted to take a short cut. I won’t turn into any bye-road, however short rt may be. But the sand fati- gues roy horses too much. I will not leave the bigh-road ; and you dare not leave it with- out my consent ; for a post-conveyance must remain upon the high road, except with the permission of travel- lers. Come, an end to this dispute. Keep on the high road. I will keep a good look out, and take care that you do not ieaye it. La descente est asset rapide, je veux qu'on enraye. Regardez un peu si la malle est bien attachee, et si rien ne s’esf defait. Je crois qne les roues s’ enfiamment, regar- dez y. Voyez en wane temps, si rien ne man- que a, la voiture . Allez done, postilion, votes n' allez pas. Postilion, ne prenez point de chemin dt tra- verse. Je ne veux point quitter la grande route. Je ne le veux point ab- solument. Mais je prendrai un chemin plus court. Je ne veux point de chemin de traverse, quelque court qiVil soit. Mats le sable fatigue trop mes chevaux. Je ne veux point quit- ter le grand chemin . Et vous ne pouvez le quitter sans ma permis- sion, car la poste doit smvre la grande route, a moins que les voya- ge urs ne consentent a la quitter. Alims, fnissons cette discussion. Et restez dans la grande route. \J’y aurai Vot'd, etje ne souffrirai point que vous vous en hearties. La strada e mol to erta, (il declivio e, pre- cipitoso) io voglio, che si metta il mozzo. Osservate un poco se la valigia e ben attac- cata, e se non c’ e ni- ente di staccato. Io credo che le mote s’ infiammino, Guardate nello stesso tempo se non manca niente alia vettura. Avanzate postigli- one, non andiamo in- nanzi cosi. f Postiglione, badate di non prendere strada di traversa. Io non voglio staccarmi dalla strada maestra. Non lo voglio assoluta- mente. Ma io prendero una strada piu corta Non voglio passar per alcuna strada di traversa, per quanto corta ella sia. Ma la sabbia stanca troppo i miei cavalli. Io non voglio sortire dalla strada maestra. E vo inon potete las ■ ciarla senza il mio permesso, giacche la posta devetenersi sulla strada maestra, a meno che i viaggiatori con- sentirio a sortirne. Si fmisca*questo dis- corso. Restate sulla strada grande. Ci avro 1’ocehio, e non soffriro per verun coino* che ne sortiate. k 22 On speaking to the ’Postillion on the Road, Take care you don’t run against that heavy waggon. Shall we arrive soon ? How far distant are we from the next stage ? Stop, postillion, I want to alight. There is no danger. No matter, I tell you to stop j we want to alight. Stop, hold ; we must light up the lanterns of the carriage. Open the door ; put down the steps ; put down the glasses ; give me your arm ; shut the door. Have we lost our •way, boy ? Do you think you will be able to find the way again ? We must inquire of the first person we meet, or stop at the first cottage we come to. Inquire of that pea- sant, that country lass, that young man, &c. Hark, my friend, pray tell us, whether we are on the right road or not. We are going to* • Are we far from the! next stage i Prcnez garde d’ac- crocher cette gresse voiture . Serons-nous bientot arrives ? A quelle distance sommes-nous de la poste ? Postilloji , arritez, je veux descendre . II n'y a point de danger. IV’ import e, arrctez vous, dis-je, nous vou- lons descendre. Arrctez, arrctez done. — II faut allumer les lanternes de la voiture. Ouvrez la portiere ; abaissez le warchepied, baissez la glace ; don- nezmoi le bras, fermez la voiture. Postilion, est-ce que nous sommes cgar6s ? Croyez-vous pouvoir retrouver le chemin ? II faut interroger le premier passant que nous rencontrerons, ou nous arreter a la premiere chaumiere. Questionnez ce pay- san, cette paysanne, ce jeunc homme, etc, Ecoutez, mon ami , di- tes-nous,je veus prie, si nous sommes sur la route de .... Nous aliens a • • • • Sommes-nous loin de la poste ? Badate di non incro- cicchiarvi con quella carozza grande. Arriveremo presto .* Quanto siamo noi ancora lontani dalla posta ? Fermate, postigli- one, io voglio discen* dere. Non c’ e alcun pe- ricolo. Non importa, fer- mate vi dico, vogliam® sortire. Ma fermate una volta, fermate.— Bi- sogna accender le lan* terne della vettura. Aprite la portiera, lasciate giu il mar- cia piede, abbassate i cristalli, datemi brac- cio, chiudete la vet- tura. Postiglione abbiamo noi smarrita la stra- da? Credete voi poter ritrovare la strada ? Bisognera dimandara al priino che passa, o fermarci alia prima capanna, (al primo tu- gurio). Interrogate questo contadino, questa con- tadina, questo giovine, ecc. Ehi amico! diteci vi prego, se siamo sulla strada di* • •• Noi andiamo a»»»» Siamo noi lontani dalla posta ? Accidents oti the Road. L it a great waj to the high road ? Must we turn to the right or left, or drive straight on ? Must we go back again ? Sir, pray oblige us so far as to tell us, whether we are on the right road to - • • •? Postillion, there is a man got up behind ; make him get down again Postillion, let this poor man get upon the bar. He is so very tired ! Give him leave ; he is an old man ! Well, I’ll give you something for that. Yes, I agree to it. Get up my Friend. Get up, good man. Good man, don’t fall asleep on the seat ; you might fall. Awake ; or you will fall down. Keep a- wake. Le grand chemin est - il loin d'ici ? Faut-il prendre a droite ou a gauche, ou bien aller tout droit ? Faut-il revenir sur nos pas ? Monsieur, auriez- osus la bonte de nous dire si nous sommes sur la route de* • • • ? Postilion, un homme vient de monter, der- riere la voiture ; faites le descendre. Postilion, laissez ce pauvre homme monter sur le si6ge de la voi- ture. II est si fatigue ! Laissez-le ; c’est un vieillard ! Eh bien, je vous don- nerai quelque chose pour cela. Oui,fy consens. Montez, mon ami. Montez, bon homme . Bon homme, ne vous endormez pas sur ce siege, vous pourriez tomber. Reveillez-vous done. Vous tomberez. Tenez - vous eoeille. 23 La strada maeslra e lontana di qui ? Bisogna tenersi a dritta, o a sinistra, oppur andar sempre dritto ? Dobbiamo noi forso tornare a dietro ? Signore, vorrebbe aver la bonta di dirci, se siamo sulla strada di ? Postiglione, qualcu- no e montato di dietro sulla vettura, fatelo disceridere. Postiglione, lasciate salir questo pover’ uo« mo sul serpe. Egli e cosi stanco. Lasciatelo, e un po» vero vecchio. Ebbene io vi dard qualche cosa per ques- to. Si, son contento. Salite amico, venite su, buon uoir.o. Buon uomo, non v* addormentate in serpa, potreste cascare. Via svegliatevi, voi cascherete. Tenetevi svegliato. On the Accidents which might hap- pen on the Road. |j The head-pin starts. The leathern brace is I , torn, , DIALOGUE VIII. Sur les Accidens qui peuvent ar- river en Route. La cheville ouvriere a saute. La soupente a casst. Sugli Accidenti, che possono arri- •car sulla Strada. L’acciarino della ru~ ota e saltato fuori. S’ e rotto il cignone. m Accidents on the Road. We are Overturned Lend me your hand Support me. Take this luggage away. I have lost a shoe, or my shoes in the chaise ; look for them. Hand us out the cushions. Lay them down here, under the shade of this tree ; they will serve us for seats. Let us sit down. I was much frighten- ed. And I too. We must lift the chaise up again. Js it much shatter- ed ? What part is broken? Is it difficult to be set right again ? Will it require much time ? Go to yonder cot- tage, and call for assis- tance. Ask for nails, cordage, and a ham- mer ; inquire whether we can have a per- son to mend it. Make inquiry for a coachmaker, or black- smith. Only repair the chaise so far, that we may proceed gently t<; the first town or stage. As it is impossible to repair it again, lei us proceed on loot. La voiture a vers A. Donnez-moi la main. Soutenez-moi. Otez ces paquets. J’ai perdu tin de mes souliers, ou mes souliers dans la voiture, cherchez les. Donnez nous les cous- sins de la voiture. Met - tez'les a, V ombre sous cet arbre ; ils nous servi- ront de siege. Asseyons-nous. J'ai en bien peur . Et moi. aussi. llfaut a present rele- ver la voiture. Est-elle tout-a-fait brisse ? Quest-ce qu'il y a de casst ? Cela est-il difficile d raccommoder ? Cela sera-t-il long ? Allez d cette chaumi- ere demander du se- couts. JDemandez des clous, des cordes , un mar- teau. Sachez si Von pent avoir un charron. Allez chercher un charron ; un marechalr ferrunt. Mettez seulement la voiture en etat d'aller doucement jusqu’d la premiere ville, jusqu'd la poste. Puisqu'il est impossi- ble de la raccommoder, nous allons continuer la route a pied. La vettura s’ e ri» baltata. Datemi la mano. Sostenetemi. Levate via questi fardelli. Ho perduto una delle mie scarpe, o le mie scarpe nel legno, cer- catele. Dateci i cuscini della carrozza, metteteli all’ ombra sotto quest’ ah. bero ; ci serviranno di sedili. Sediamoci.^ Ho avulo molta paura. Ed io pure. Convien ora far rial- zar la vettura. S’ e ella intieramente spezzata ? Che c’ e di rotto ? £' cio difficile da raggiustare (raccom- modare) ? Ci vorra percio mol- to tempo ? Andate in quella ca- succia a dimnndar soccorso. Dimandate dei chiodi, delle corde, ed un marlello. Di- mandate, se si potesse aver un carraro.. Andate a cerc’ar un carraro, o un manis- calco. Mettete il legno in stato di potersolamente arrivar piano sin alia prima citla, o fhio alia posta. Giacche e impossi- bile di raccomodarla, continueremo il viag*> Accidents on the Road • 25 Go and inquire at that cottage, whether they will let us have a cart ; we can put post- horses to it, and thus arrive at • • • • Could we not get some village horses go and make inquiry. Don’t forget to put iny cloakbag, my port- manteau, and box upon the cart. Call to those country- people for help. My friends, would you assist us ? We are in great distress. You shall be well paid for your trouble. We are sticking in a hole. Lend us two of your horses to draw us forwards. You will do us a great favour. Dear friends, I beg of you. Can you accommo- date us with lodging for this night ? Is that village far from hence ? Is the carriage well adjusted again? Will it carry us to the next stage ? Will you answer for it? Now, proceed ; we will walk the horses gently ; we will drive very slowly, on the level road. One of the horses has just fallen down. Allez demander a cette chaumiere si Von veut nous louer une charrette, on y attSlera les chevaux de poste, et nous nous rendrons ainsi a. • • . Pourrions-nous avoir des chevaux de. charr- ue ? Allez-vous en infor- mer. Ilfaut mettre sur la charrette ma malle , mon porle-manteau , ma cassette, etc . Appelez ces paysans pour nous aider. Mes amis voulez-vous bien nous aider ? Nous sommes dans un grand embarras . Vous serez bien payes de vos pei- nes. Nous sommes embour- bes. Prcte% nous deux de vos chevaux pour nous tirer de Id. Vous 7ious rendrez un I grand service. Mes amis, je vous en conjure. Pouvez-vousnous don- ner I'hospitalite pour cette nuit ? Ce village est-il loin d’ici ? La voiture est-elle j bien raccommodee ? Pourra-t-elle aller jusqu'a la poste ? En repondez-vous ? Allons, partons ; al- lons au pas ; allons bien doucement et sur la terre. Un cheval vient de s'abattre . Andate a dimandar in quell’ abituro, se ci volesse noleggiar una carretta, vi si at- tacheranno i cavalli di posta, e uoi ci rende- rerno cosi a • • • . Potremo noi aver de’ cavalli da’ conta- dini andate ad infor- marvene. Bisogna metter sulla carretta la mia valigia, d raio portamantello, c la mia cassetta, etc. Chiamate quest! con- tadini ad ajutarci. Amici, vorreste voi a jutarci ? Ci troviamo in un grande imbarazzo. Sarete ben pagati per la vostra fatica. Noi siamo qui ingol- fati, imprestateci due de’vostri cavalli, per cavarcene fuori. Ci renderete un gran servigio. Cari Amici, ve ne$ congiuro. Ci potete ricoverare per questa, notte ? Quel villaggio 6 mol- to lontano di qui ? II legno e racco« niodato bene ? Potra arrivare sino alia posta ? Me ne state garante ? Andiamo, partiamo. Ce n’ anderemo passo a passo. Andiamo moJ- to adagio, dov' e piano' 1 terreno. Ecco, che h caduto un cavallo. , C 126 Accidents on the Road • Is the drirer hurt ? Yes, he is hurt. Let us step out to his assistance, and dress his wound. I always carry with me every thing that is requisite in such accidents. Reach me my small casket. In this casket are bandages of linen, ▼ery soft lint, Cologne ■water, a dried bladder, brandy, two vials, the one filled with fresh water, and the other with salt water, (I take care to replenish them every morning), a third vial with eau de luce, and a bottle with the juice of sour grapes, or vinegar. The coachman has fallen into a swoon ; ap- ply the smelling bottle with eau de luce to his nose. Disengage the postil- lion from the horse. He has broken a leg. He has broken an arm. Let us take him into the carriage. His head is bruised. He has got a large lump upon his head. Ought we not to apply a piece of money to it to make it flat? By no means. Your proposal is prepos- terous, it would be Le postilion n’est-il pas blesse? Out, il est blesse. 'Descendous pour le secourir, et le panser. Jepo rte touj ours avcc moi toutes les choses ne- cessaires pour ces sortes d’accidens. Donnex-moi ma petite cassette . Il y a dans cette cassette des bandes de linge, de la charpie bien propre, de Ceuu- de Cologne, de la baudruche, de Veau de- vie, deux fiacons, Vun d'enu pure et V autre d’eau assaisonnee de sel, (f arrange ces deux fiacons chaque matin ) un troisieme fiacon d'eau de Luce et une bouteille de strop de verjus ou de vinaigre. Le postilion est eva- noui ; faisons-lui respi- rer I'eau de Luce , JDegagex doucement le postilion de dessous le cheval. Il a lajambe casse'e. Il a le bras casse. Portons-le dans la voi- ■ture. Il a une contusion & la tete. Il a une grosse bosse u la tete. Ne faut-il pas appliquer tine piece ,de monnoie sur cette bosse afin de I’uplatir ? Point du tout. Ce que vous propose x Id, est une chose trds-dange- Non s’ e fatto male il postiglione ? Si, e ferito. Discendiamo a soc- correrlo, ed a medi- carlo. 10 porto sempre me* co tutte le cose neces- sarie per sirnili acci« denti. Datemi la mia cas- settina. Ci sono in essa delle bende (fas. cie) di lino, delle sfi- laccie pulite, dell’ ac* qua di Cologna, della pelle di vescica, due fiaschi, P uno con ac- qua pura, P altro con acqua composta con sale, (riempio ogni mat- tina questi due fiaschi) un terzo fiasco d’ acqua di luce, ed una bottig- lia d* agresto, oppur d* aceto. 11 postiglione e sve- nuto, facciamogli res- pirar dell’ acqua di luce. Ritirate adagio il postiglione dissotto dal cavallo. Ha la gamba rotta. Ha rotto il braccio. Portatelo nella car- rozza. Egli ha una.contu- sione alia testa. Ha un grosso tu- more alia testa. Non convien applicargli Una moneta su ques- to tu more, affine d’ appianarlo ? Oibo ! Cio che voi proponete, e una cosa molt© pericolosa, che Occidents on the Road • S reuse, qu'ilfaut bien se [ OTong to follow it. I will only apply to the contusion some Cologne water mixed with fresh water. He has a hole in his head. We must first wash the wound well with fresh water, and after- wards apply a poul- tice to it of Colog- ne water mixed with fresh water. Only let him drink & glass of verjuice drops, or vinegar with water. Why ? To prevent a relapse. He has fallen upon & flint, which has burst a vein, and the blood sannot be stopped. We must first let it flow a little, and then foment it with fresh water. Afterward, if the hemorrhage continues with the same violence, we must apply sugar well pounded to the wound. I have some in my box, ! Do you suffer much ? What causes you pain> . I will afford you lj every requisite assist- II ance on the spot, and afterward, when we • garder defaire. Je mettrai settlement sur cette contusion de Veau deCologne itendue d’eau douce. II a un trou a la tete. II faut doucement bien laver la plaie avec de Veau pure, et ensuite y mettre une compresse trempee dans de Veau de Cologne, melee d’eau douce. Faites-lui boire un bon verve ou de sirop de verjus, ou de vinaigre avec un peu d’eau. Pourquoi ? Pour prevenir le con - trecoup . II est tombe sur un caillou, qui lui a ouvert une veine, et le sang ne peut s’arriter. II faut le laisser un peu couler, et puds etu- ver avec de Veau pure. Et ensuite , si Vh£- morrhagie continue atec la mime force, it faut mettre sur la coupure, du sucre re'duit en pou- dre tns-fine. J'en ai dans mon ne'cessaire , Souffrez-vous ? Qu'est-ce qui vous fait mal? Je vais vous donner ious les premiers secours et puis, arrives d • ® » • je vous donnerai Var- c 2 21 bisogna ben evitare di farla. To mettero solamente su questa contusione dell’ acqua di Colog*, na mischiata con ac-= qua. Ha un buco nella testa. Bisogna lavar dolce- mente, ma bene, la pia- ga con dell’ acqua pura, e poi mettervi una compressa bagnata nell’ acqua di Cologna mescolata con deli" altr’ acqua. Fategli bere un buon bicchiere di sciroppO d’ agresto, o dell’ aceto con un po’ d’ acqua. Perche ? Per prevenire il com* tracolpo. E caduto sopra un sasso (una scaglia), che gli ha aperto una vena, e non si pud far stag* nare il sangue. E' necessario di las- ciarlo correre un poco. e poi di fomentar la parte con dell’ acqua pura. Che se poi l’emorra« gia continuasse eolla stessa violenza, con* verra metter sulla fe« rita del zucchero ri~ dotto in polvere ussai fina. Ne' ho nella mis cassettina. Solfrite molto ? Cos’ e die vi fs male? To vi prestero qui £ primi soccorsi, e poi giunti a • • • *io vi som- raiaistrerd il deaar* 28 Accidents on the Road . are arrived will give you sufficient money to effect your cure under the hands of a surgeon. Take courage, my friend. Your fall does not appear to be dan- gerous. Poor man ! I sympa- thize greatly with your sufferings, I assure you. The horses have just fallen. Is nobody hurt ? No ; thank God. That horse is dange- rously hurt. It is dead. Come, let us make haste. That horse is un- shod. Can we proceed on our journey without danger ? Yes, by going very slowly . Well, let us go an easy pace. The rain pours down The wind increases. It is dangerous to conti- nue our journey in such weather. Let us stop at the first house. Inquire whether we ■diall meet with a good reception. getitnecessaire pour vous faire soignerpar un bon chirurgien. Prenez courage, mon ami. II me semble que cela n’estpas dangereux. Pauvre homme ! je eompaiis bien votre souffrance, soyez-en stir. Les chevaux viennent de s’abattre. N’y a-t-il personne bless t ? Non ; Dieu merci. Le cheval est ires - blesse. 11 est mort. Allons, depechons- nous . Le cheval est dcferrt. Pouvons-nous sans danger continuer notre route ? Oui, en allant tres- doucement. Eh bien, allons au pas . II pleut a verse. Le vent redouble. Le ton- nere est affreux. II est dangereux de continuer sa route par un tel orage, Arretons-nous a la premiere maison . Demandez si Von veut bien nous recevoir. necessario per farvi curare da un buon ce« rusico. Fatevi coraggio, a- mico ! mi sembra che il vostro acci- dente non sia punto pericoloso. Poveretto, siate si- curo, che compatisco molto i vostri dolori. Icavalli son caduti (atterrati). Non v’ha alcuno di ferito ? No, grazie a Dio. 11 cavallo s’ e molto ferito. E' morto. Via, spicciamoci (fa- ciam presto). II cavallo ha perdu- to un ferro. Possiamo continuar il nostro viaggio senza pericolo ? Si, andando molto piano (molto adagio). Ebben, andiamo pas- so, passo. Piove a secchie, (piove a ciel dirotto, piove che diluvia.) Tuonneggia terribil- mente. E' pericoloso di continuar il viaggio durante un simile fem- porale. Fermiamoci alia priraa casa. Di mandate, se ci vo« gliono ricevere. At the Inn Conversation at the St age Inns whilst the Horses are changing. How many miles are there hence to the next stage ? That is one and a half, or two stages ? Is it a good road ? Come hither driver! take your money. This is for the guides, and here is something to drink, for yourself. How ! are you not satisfied ? You drove me well to be sure, but I pay you handsomely. If you had dri- ven me better, 1 should have given you more. When they drive me well, I give - • • . You must take one horse more this stage. Why? That is not reason- able. Call the master or mistress of the post office. I want to speak to him, (to her.) Sir, or madam, I have only had so many horses till now ; why do you want me to take more ? , while the Horses ai DIALOGUE IX. Pour parler aux Postes tandis qu T on attele les Chevaux. Comhien y a-t-il de lieues, ou de milles d’ici a la poste pro- chaine ? Celafait poste el de- mit oa deux postes ? Le chemin esl il beau ? Postilion, venez rece- voir votre argent. Void pour vos guides et votre pour boire. Comment, n’etes dous pas content ? 11 est vrai que vous m’avez bien mene, mais aussi je vous paye tres- bien. Si vous m'aviez micux mene je vous donnerois davantage. Quand on me mene bienje donne • • • • 11 faut qu’a cette poste vous preniex un cheval de plus. Pourquoi done ? Cela n'est pas juste. Appellee le maitre ou la maitresse de poste. Je voudrois lui parler. Monsieur, ou ma- dame,je n’ai eu jusqu'i- ci que tant de chevaux ; pourquoi voulez-vous done aue j'en prenne davantage ? c 3 changing. 29 Per parlare nel luogo di Posta 9 mentre s r attacco - no i cavalli. Quante leghe, o mig- lia ci sono di qui sino all’ altra posta ! None questa una pos- ta e mezza ? o due poste? C’e buona strada ? Postiglione, venite a prender il vostro de- naro. Quest’ e per le vos- tie guide, e questo per la vostra mancia. Come, voi non siete contento ? E' vero, che m’avele condotto bene, ma v’ho altresi pagato bene. Se m’aveste condotto meglio, vi darei di piu. Quando si sollecita bene, io do - • • • Bisogna che a questa posta ella prenda un cavallo di piu. Perclffi dunque ? Questo non e giusto. Chiamate il maestro, o fa maestra di posta, gli voglio parlare. Signore, o Signora, io non ho" avuto sin qui, che tanti- -cavalli, perche si vuol dunque adesso ch’ io ne prenda di piu ? SO At the Inn, 'while the Horses are changing • Because the stage is Jong and tedious, and the road is very sandy. Yes, hut I ought to pay no more than the regular charge. Your carriage is very heavy, and has a great weight to carry. I assure you that it Is neither heavy nor has it much weight to carry. In short, hitherto I' have come on very •well with two or four horses, and I shall cer- tainly take no more. I request you will give me good horses. Pray give me a good saddle-horse, I must tell you before hand, I am a good judge of them. This horse is good for nothing. He is. restive and subject to start. I will not have him. I request you will give me ano- ther. * Come along, postil- lion ! let us be gone ! Pray push on the postillion. Go into the stable, and ask for the horses. Get on, get on, look sharp; I am in great haste ; I will give you something handsome to drink, if you will make haste. Look, whether the carriage is in good nrder. C' est que la poste est | longue, fatiguante, et le chemin tres-sablonneux. Oui, man je ne dois payer que Vordonnance . Votre voiture est lour- de, et tres-charg€e. Point du tout. Je vous assure qu'elle n'est ni lourde ni chargee. Enfin, jusqu'ici j’ai fort bien tie avec deux chevaux, avec quatre chevaux , et certaine- ,'ment je n'en prendrai pas davantage. Je vous prie de me donner de bans chevaux. Eonnez-moi un bon bidet , je m’y connois, je vous en previens. Ce cheval ne vaut rien. 11 est retif, il est ombrageux. Je n'en veux clccidement point. Je vous prie de m'en donner un autre. Allons done, postilion, dtp&chons-nous ! Pressez done le pos- tilion ! Allez done a Vecurie demander les chevaux. Allons, allons, de la diligence ! Je suis tres- presse, je vous donnerai bien pour boire, si vous vous depichez. Vot/ez, si la voiture est en bon c tat. Egli d perch6 la poste £ lunga, faticosa, e la strada piena di sabbia. Si, ma io non devo pagar che la tassa. La sua carrozza, e pesante, e molto cari» cata. Anzi null’ affatto* V’assicuro, che non e ne pesante, ne molto caricata. In somma, io son andato sin qui molto bene con due cavalli, e certo io non ne pren- dero di piu. Io la prego di darmi de’ buoni cavalli. Mi dia un buon ca« vallo da sella, io ne son conoscitore, ne la prevengo. Questo cavallo noil val niente. E' rical- citrante, e ombratico. Io non Io voglio asso^ lutamente. La prego di darmene un altro. Via postiglione, da bravo, spicciamoci ! Fate andare (inci* tate) il postiglione. Andate dunque nella stalla a dimandar f ca- valli. Via, via, un po* pin di fretta. Ho premura, e vi daro una buona mancia,se saprete spict ciarvi. Guard ate se il legn© e in buon ordine. Throw some water tipon the wheels. Are the wheels greased ? I am very dry. Is the water good here ? Is it spring water, or from a well ? I want a glass ol beer, a glass of water, a glass of fresh milk, warm from the cow. Go and see them milking that cow. Have you good bread ? Bring us some. Can we get any cake and fruit ? What sort of fruil Jhave you ? I want some bread and butter, if the but- ter is fresh. — I thank you. We must make haste ; I won’t travel during the night; the rather as we shall have no moonshine. We shall have aline clear moonshine. No, I shall not alight. I am going to alight. What ! Are there no horses to be had ? How long must we wait for them ? 0 Heavens ! that’s unlucky ! Can’t you send for any ? 1 could like to hire seme. For God’s sake order him, desire him to be expeditious. Jetez de Veau suv les roues-. A t-on graisst les roues ? J’ai bien soif. L r eau est-il bonne ici ? est- ce de Veau de source oil de puits ? Je v oudrois un verve du biere, un verre d r eau, un bon verre de lait nou~ vellement tire. Allez voir tirer la va- che. Avez-'vous de bon pain ? apportez-nous en. Pourroit-on avoir des gateaux et du fruit ? Quelle sorte de fruits avez-vous ? Je voudrois quelques beurrees, si le beurre est bien frais. — Je vous remercie. Depechons-nous ; je ne veux pas voyager dans la nuit ; d’autarit plus que nous n’aurons point de clair de lune. Nous aurons un beau clair de lune • Non,je ne descendrai point. Je vais descendre. Comment ! n'y-at-il point de chevaux ? Et combien de temps faudra-t-il attendre ? 0 del ! c’est affreux. Et ne pourriez-vous pas en envoyer chercher ? J’en louerois volon- tiers. De grace, donnez-lui I'ordre, recommandez- lui de se depccher. c 4 SI Gettate dell’ acqua sulle mote. Si ha dato 1* unt© alle ruote ? Ho gran sete. C’e qui dell’ acqua buona ? E' acqua di fonte, o di pozzo ? Vorrei un bicchiere di birra, un bicchiere d’acqua, un buon bic» ehiere di latte appena munto. Andate a veder munger la vacca. Avele del buori pane ? Cene portate. Si potrebbe aver qui delle l’ocaccette, o del= le frutta ? Che sorta di frutti avele ? Vorrei avere un poc© di pan con burro, se ce n’e di ben fresco.— Vi ringrazio. Affrettiamoci, io non voglio gia viaggiar in tempo di notte, tanto piu, che non avremo lume di luna. Noi avremo un bel~ lume dWuna. No, io non sortird di vettura. Discenderd io. Come ! non ci son cavalli ? E quanto ci bisog- nera aspettare ? O cielo ! quest’ e lerribile ! E non po- trebb’ ella mandar a cercarne ? Io ne prenderei vo» lontieri a nolo. In grazia, gliene dia l’ordine, gli raceom- mandi di spicciarsi. At the Inn , 'while the Horses are changing. 32 At the Inn , ‘while the Horses are changing . Sir, you seem so very ®bliging ; pray could you do us this favour ? I acknowledge your kindness. Sir. You are very polite. I return my warmest thanks. This coin does not pass here, or is not current here. Pray be so kind as to change me this gold piece into silver or copper. The bill is right. Look it over well. The bill is not right. How much are you to receive ? Shall we be search- ed in the first town ? Oh ! I know every thing that comes under the description of con- traband goods; I have written a list of them in my day-book. This is a very useful precau- tion, and which every traveller must take. No, I never carry any contraband goods along with me. I am of opinion, that we ought entirely to con- form to the laws of the country in which we travel. Farewell, sir, or ma- dam ! Your servant. Monsieur , vous avez I’air si obligeant ! je vous en conjure, rendez - moi ce service. J'en suis bien recon- noissant. Cela est bien honnete. Je vous en re- mercie de tout mon caeur. Cette monnoie ne vaut rien. Je vous prie de me faire changer cette piece on ces pieces en argent blanc, en petite mon- noie. Le compte y est. Re- gardez-y bien. Le compte n'y est pas . Combien vous faut- il ? Serons-nous fouilles a la premiere ville fron- tiere ? Ohlje sais quels sont tous les objets de contre- bande ; j'en ai ecrit la liste sur mon journal. C’est une precaution tres-^utile, et que chaque voyageur doit prendre. Non, je ne passe ja- mais de contrebande. Je pense qu’en toutes choscs on doit se confor- mer am lois des diffe- rens pays oil Von voy- age. Adieu monsieur, ou madame . Votre servi- teur , ou votre servante , Signor mio, ella mi sembra cost gentile ; lo congiuro, mi faccia questo servizio. Gliene ho molta ob- bligazione. Ella e mol- to cortese. Ne la rin- grazio contutto il cu- ore. Questa moueta non val niente. La prego di farmi cambiar questa pezza, o queste pezze d’oro, in moneta d’argento, o in moneta piccola. 11 conto e giusto, vi guardi bene. II conto non £ gius- to. Quanto deve avere? Sarerno noi visitati alia prima citta di fron- tiera ? (di confine). Oh ! io so quali sono tutti gli oggetti di con- trabbando ; ne ho scritto la lista sul mio giornale. Quest’ d una precauzione molto uti- le, ch’ ogni viaggiator deve avere. No, io non porto mai meco veruna cosa di contrabbando. Io penso, che in tutte le cose bisogua coafor- marsi alle leggi dei paesi differenti, in cui si viaggia. Addio Signore, o Signora. Servitor sue* o serva sua. On speaking to the Searchers of Customs . 33 On giving Alms on the Road . You are very young, why don’t you work ? Are you an orphan? Have you brothers or sisters ? ; How oid are you? Have you any chil- dren ? How many children have you ? Tell this good wo- man, or that old man, to come a little nearer. Give this to the poor people ? Share it with your comrades. I will give you some- thing directly. Wait a moment. I’ll give you something im- mediately. - Is that your father or mother, whom you lead about? Always take good care of him or her; .God will certainly bless good children. Here ! take this ; and there is something for you besides. DIALOGUE X. Pour donner FAu- mone en Route. Vous etes bienjeune, pourquoi ne travaillez- vous pas ? Etes-vous orphelin, ou orpheiine ? Avez-vous des freres, oa des soeurs ? Quel age avez-vous ? Avez-vous des enfans ? Combien avez-vous d’- enfans ? Faites approcher cette bonne femme , ou ce vieillard. Donnez cela a, ces pauvres. Fartagez cela avec les autres pauvres » Je vous donnerai tout a, I’heure. Attendez un moment. Je vous donnerai dans l' instant. Est-ce votre pere, ou votre mere , dont vous etes le guide ? Aye z toujours Bien soin de lui, ou d'elle ; Dieu be'nit surement les bons enfans. Tenet , prenez cela, prenez ceci , et cela en- core . Per far la Cariih sulla Strada . Siete cosi giovine, perche non lavorate ? Siete orfano, orfa- nella ? Avete dei fratelli, o delle sorelle ? Quanti anni avete? che eta avete ? Avete de’ figli ? Quanti figli avete ? Lasciate avvicinarsi questa buona donna,, 0 questo vecchio. Date cio a que’ po« veri. Dividete cio eogli altri poveri. Vi daro subito. Aspettate un mo mento. All’ istante avrete qualche cosa. E’ vostro padre, o vostra madre, che gui- date ? Abbiate di lui, o di lei, constantemente buona cura ; Dio be- nedisce infallibilmente 1 buoni figli. Ecco, prendete, ri?> cevete questo, e ancur- questo. On speaking to the Searchers of the Customs . Have you nothing with you, contrary to DIALOGUE XL Pour parler aux Co mm is des Douanes* N* avez-vous rien con - tre les ordres du roi, du Perparlareagl * Is - pettori delle Do - gane « Non ha ella nientd contro i decreti, o gli 34 On speaking to the Searchers of Customs* the decrees of the king, sovereign, or re- public ? No, I have no con- traband goods. J have only some goods that pay duty, and I will produce them. How much have I to pay for this ? You must give me .you” beys. Here they are. Be so kind as to be a little expeditious, for I am in great haste. I shall be much o- bliged to you for it. Here is the key of the padlock, and here is the key of the lock. Pray be careful in searching, for there is much brittle ware. Have you done ? Won’t you put a seal immediately upon &he port-manteau and ftrunk, that I may not he searched again ? Pray, could you not, instead of searching me here before the gate, accompany me to the inn, or house, where I lodge ? I thank you, fare- well. Ygur servant, Sir. souverain, ou de la re- publique ? Non, je n'ai aucune contrebande. J'ai seulement quel- ques effets qui payent des droits, etje vais les, declarer . Combien dois-je payer, pour cela ? Ilfaut me donner vos\ clefs. Les void. Auriez - vous la bontc de vous depecher un peu, carje suis bien presse . Je vous en serai extre- mement oblige. Void la clef du cade- nas, void la clef de la serrure. Ayez la bont€ defou- iller avec precaution ; il y a plusiers choses casu- elles. Avez-vous fini ? N’allez-vouspas plom- ber a present la malle et les cojfres, afin queje ne sois plusfouille £ Pourriez-vous, an lieu de me fouiller a cette porte , venir me fouiller a fauberge , ou a la mais- on, ouje vais loger? Je vous remercie, a- dieu . Voire serviteur, monsieur. ordini del Re, del Sot- rano, o della Repub'” blica ? No, Signore, io non ho nulla di contrab- bando. Ho solamente alcuni effetti sottoposti a da- zio, ch* io son per indi- carle. Quanto dev’ io pa- gare per questo ? Bisogna ch’ ella mi dia le sue cbiavi. Eccole. Vorrebbe compiacersi di solleci- tare un po’ giacche ho molto fretta (moltapre- mura). Gliene sarei estrema- mente obbligato. Ecco la chiave del lucchetto, ecco la chiave della serratura. Eavorisca di visitare con qualche riguardo (precauzione); ci sono differenti cose assai fra- gili. Ha finito ? Non metteia ella a- desso i piombi alia va- ligia, o ai bauli, accio- che io non sia pm Yisi- tato ? Non potrehb’ ella, invece di visitarmi a questa porta, venir a visitarmi all* albergo, o al quartiere, m cui alloggierb ? La ringrazio, ad die. Serve suo» signore. Conversation in the Diligence • I speak German very badly. I understand it a little, if it be not spo- ken too fast. Do you understand me? I do not entirely un- derstand you ? Are you a French- man? From what province are you ? You speak perfectly •well. No, it is no compli- ment. The dust is very troublesome. I think we must o- pen, or shut, the win- dow on this side. Give me leave to puli up this window- frame, or let it down. No, I don’t appre- hend any thing from the smell of tobacco. Have you any thing to light your pipe with ? Is not this bundle troublesome to you ? 1 sit perfectly at my ease. Give me leave to put my feet a little forward. There, that will do. You don’t put me to the least inconve- nience. In the Diligence . 3$ DIALOGUE XIXi Pour parler dans une Voiture Publique, Je park bien mal V- allemand. Je Ventenis un peu, lorsqu'on ne parle pas vite . M’entendcz-vous bien ? Je n*ai pas him en- tendu. Etes-vous Franfois ? De quelle province e- tes-vous ? Vous parlez ct mer- veille. Non, ce nest point un compliment . La poussiere est bien incommode. Je crois qu’il faud- roit ouvrir oufermer de ce cote. Permettez - vous queje leve, ou queje bcdsse ce panneau ? Non, point du tout. Je ne Crains pas Vodeur de lafumie de tabac » Avez~vous de quoi al- lumer votre pipe £ Ce paquet ne vous in- commode-t-il pas ? Je suis a merveille . Permettez-moi d'eten- dre un peu lesjambes. La, comrne cela. Vous ne me genez point du tout * Per parlare in nna Vettura di Posta • I o parlo assai male il tedesco. L’intendo un poco*, quando non si parla presto. M’intende ella bene I Non ho inteso bene. E' ella francese } Di che provincial Ella parla egregia® mente (a maraviglia). No, non c’ e un com® plimento. La polvere e molt© incomoda. lo credo, che bisog® nerebbe aprire, o chiu® dere da quella parte. Permette ella, ch’ i© levi, o ch* io abbassi j(lasci giu) quest’ im® posta ? No Signore, niente affatto. Non mi fa ri® brezzo il fumo del V&r bacco. Ha ella dell* esca per accender la sua pipa ? Questo pacchetto 1® incomoda forse ? Sto benissimo (a ma® raviglia). Mi permettadi sten® der un po’ le ganibe, Cosi, bene. Ella non rn’incomoda punto. 36 Conversation at an Inn » Can you sleep in the •waggon ? We must leave the back part of the wag- gon to the women and old men. Will you get down or alight ? Here is a mountain. Jet us alight, and ease the horses. We must let down the curtains. The wind proceeds from that side. The rain comes from that side. May I ask you, where you are going ? Pouvez-vous dormir en voiture ? Ilfaut ceder lefond de la voiture aux fem ntes et aux vieillards. Voulez-vous descen- dre ? Voila une montagne, deseendous pour sou- lager les cheoaux . II. faudroit tirer ce store ou ce rideau, Le vent souffle de ce cote ; il pleut de ce cote. I am going to .... - I think of settling there, or of making some stay there. Let us ask the coach- man. Do you wish to speak with him ? What did he say ? What answer did he make ? Where shall we stop to dine or sup ? Does your watch go right ? What o’clock is it? Oseroisje vous deman- der ou vous allez ? Je vais a Je compte m'y etab- lir, ou y sejourntr quel - que temps. Demandons cela au conducteur. Voulez-vous bien lui parler ? Qu’a-t-il dit ? Qu'a-t-il repondu ? Ou nous arrtterons- nouspour diner ou pour souper ? Votre montre va-t-el- ! e bien ? Quelle heure est-il ? Puo ella dormir rref- !a carrozza ? Convien cedere il fondo (il di dietro) della carrozza alle don= ne, ed ai vecchj. Vuol ella sortire ? Qui c’e un ascesa® smontiamo per sollevar i cavalli. Bisognerebbe tirar questa stuoja, o queste tendine (cortine). II vento soffia (spira) da questa parte ; piove da questa banda. Le posso dimandare (scusi) per dove e ella incaminata ? lo vado a Son inlenzionato di stabilirmi cola, o di soggiomarvi qualclie tempo. Dimandianio questo al conduttore. Vorrebhe ella com- piacersi di parlargli ? Che cosa ha detto? Che cosa ha rispos- to ? Dove ci fermeremo a pranzo, a cena ? Ya bene il suo oro logio ? Che ora e ? Conversation at an Inn . I wish to have a bed-room ; be so kind as to shew me one im- mediately, and bring up my luggage. DIALOGUE XIII. Pour parler dans une Auberge. Je voudrois une cham- bre a coucher ; voulez- vous bien m'y conduire sur le champ , et yfqire porter mon bagage ? Per parlare in un Alb ergo. Io vorrei una camera da dormire; vorrebh' ella condur mici subito® e farvi portare il mio bagaglio ? Conversation at an Inn . ST I want a room with window-shutters. Do you wish for s room with two beds ? Yes, I could like to have one on the first floor. I do not like to mount up stairs. Are you afraid ol walking up stairs? No, that is the same to me. I dislike the ground- floor, because it is dark and moist. As I am ill I should not like to lodge to- wards the street, on account of the noise. Give me a snug and quiet apartment. Does any body lodge above me ? I dread most of all a noise over head. Pray be so kind as to give the upper room to my servant. I want to have m3 servant at hand. Does the stove smoke ? Does the chimney smoke ? We must light a fire as soon as possible. It smokes. Open the door. You see we shall be suffocated or chilled in this room ; you must give us another. Je voudrois une cham- bre qui eut des volets ou des contre-vents. Voulez-vous unechcim- bre a deux lits ? Oui,je la voudrois au premier ctage. Je ne voudrois pas monter d’ esc alters ? Craignez vous de mon- ter les escaliers ? Non , cela m'est dgal. Je n’airne pas les rez- de-chaussee, parce qu ils sont obscurs et humi des. Commeje suis mala de, je ne veux pas, a cause du bruit, loger sur la rue. Donne%-moi une chambre bien retirde, bien tranqiiille. Ai-je du monde logd au dessus de moi ? Je drains surtout le bruit sur ma teie. Je vous demande en grace de donner a mon domestique la chambrt qui est sur ma tele. Je veux avoir mon domestique pres de moi. Ce po'cle ne fume-t-il pas? Cette cheminde ne fu- me- t-elle pas ? 11 faut atlumer du, feu, bien promptement. 11 fume. Ouvrez la porte. Vous voyee qu’on d- toujfe ou qxCon gilt dans cette chambre ; il faut men donner une autre. lo vorrei una camera che avesse de’ para- venti (delle imposte). Vorrebb’ ella una camera con due letti ? Si, bramerei averla al primo piano. Non vorrei salir del- le scale. Tern’ ella di salir delle scale? No, questo non m’» importa nulla. lo non amo i piais terreni, perche son© oscuri ed urnidi. Siccome io son am- malato (indisposto), non voglio alloggiar verso la strada a mo- tivo del rumore. Mi dia una camera assai ritirata, e quieta (lontana dai romori). Abita alcuno al di sopra di me ? Mi fa gran specie lo strepito sopra la mia testa. Le chiedo in grazia d’assegnare al mi© servo la camera, che mi sta di sopra. Io voglio aver il mio servo vicino a me. Questo fornello fu- mica forse? Questo camminetto fa fumo ? Bisogna far fuoco qui presto. C e del fumo. Apnte la porta. Ella vede che in questa camera o si sofibca, o si gela ; bi= sogna danaene un’ al- fra. 38 Conversation at an Inn . Make us a fire of small wood, and give us some very dry wood. Can’t you furnish us with a screen ? I don’t like a bed with its hangings fas- tened to the ceiling. Have you no apart- ments, where there are beds with bed-posts? Yes, I prefer beds with bed-posts. There is a bad smell here. The room must be swept out, and scented with burnt sugar or vinegar. A precaution which ought always to be taken, on en- tering into an apart- ment, at an Inn. Is the door easily shut ? How do you shut it ? Where is the key ? Go and fetch the key. How do you fasten the bolt ? The beds must be made. Can’t you provide us with a mattrass, in- stead of this feather- bed ? Bring us another pillow. Besides this square pillow I should like to have a bolster. This coverlid ■ is dirty. It is too heavy. It is too light. Give me another. Allumeti-nous un pe- tit fagot , el donnez- nous du bois bien sec. Ne pourrions-nous pas avoir un paravent ? Je n’aime pas un lit dont Vimperiale est at- tachee au plafond. N 9 auriez-vous pas une chambre avec des lits a colonnes ? Oui,faime beaucoup mieux les lits d colon - nes. 11 sent bien mauvais ici. 11 faut balayer la chambre, et bruler du sucre ou du vinaigre. Precaution qu'on doit toujours prendre en en- trant dans une chambre d'auberge . La porte ferme-t-elle bien ? Comment lafer- me-t-on ? Oil est la clef? Allez cherchev la clef. Comment ferme-t-on la verrou ? II faut fair e les lits. Au lieu de ce lit de plume , pourriez-vous nous donner une mate- las ? Apportez encore un oreiller. i Je voudrois avoir ou- tre cet oreiller carre , un traversin . Cette couverture est sale. EHe est trop lourde. Elle est trop legerc . Bonnez-nous- en une autre. Acceudeteci un fas* cetto, e dated legna ben secclie. Non si potrebbe aver un parafuoco ? lo non amo i letti coll’ imperiale attac- cato alia soffitta ? Non avrebb’ ella una camera con dei letti a colonne. Si, io amo molto pid (preferisco) i letti a colonne. Qui fa un cattivissi* mo odore. Conviene spazzare (scopare) la camera, e bruciare del zucchero o dell’ aceto. Precau-- zione, che si deve pren- der sempre all* cntrar in una camera d’al® bergo. Chiude bene la por- ta ? Come si chiude i Dov’ e la chiave ? Andate a prender la chiave. Come si mette (si serra) il chiavistello ? Bisogna rifare i letti. In vece di questo iletto di piuma, non mi potrebbe dare un ma- terasso ? Mi porti ancora un cuscino. Oltre a questo gu- (anciale (cuscino) vor* rei ancor avere un ca- pezzale. Questa coperta e sporca. E' troppo pe- sante. E' troppo leg- giera. Dateceae u assez cuite ; reportez-lo dans la cuisine. Faites - la grilter. Allez mettre sur le gril ces cuisses de pou- let ; faites-les bien gril- ler. Cette viande sent mauvais, je n'en vein point. Cette viande est si dure qu'il est impossible de la manger ; donnez - nous autre chose. Je voudrois une creme au chocolat, au cafe, ou a la vanille, ou aux pis- taches, ou une creme brulee. Avez-vous des pra- lines, des dragees , des anis ? Donnez-nous de la compote de pommes, de poires , des pommes cui- tes, de la marmelude de pommes. Des fruits d V eau-de- vie. . Apportez-nous le cafe, qu'il soit bien chaud et bien clarifie. II enfaut deux tasses, quatre tasses. Q,uels vins avez-vous ? Du vin de Bourgogne, rouge et blanc, du vin de Champagne, du vin de Bourdeaux , du Ehin, de Porto, Ha ella delle buone ulive ? $ Ce lie dia. Questa carne non e ibbastanza cotta : ri- portatela nella cucina. Fatela por sulla grati- cola. Andate a por sulla graticola queste coscie di pollastri, fatele ben arrostire. Questa carne ha cat- tivo odore (puzza), non ne voglio. Questa carne e si dura, ch’ egli e impos- sible di maugiarla ; ci dia qualch’ altra cosa. Io vorrei una crema di cioccolata, di caFj, o di vaniglia, di pis- tacchj, o una crema abbrustolita. Ha ella delle man- dorle toste, de’ con- fetti, de’ grani d’a- nice ? Ci dia una composta di poma, di pera, di poma cotte, una con- serva di poma. Delle frutta neli’ ac* qua vite. Ci porti il caffe, ma che sia ben caldo, e chiarificato. Ci bisognano' due tazze, quattro tazze. Che sorte di vini ha lei ? Del vino di Bor- gogna, rosso, e bianco, del vino, di Sciampag- na, del vino di Bor- deaux, del vin di Reno, di Porto. Calling for Victuals at an Inn . Above all, let us have wine that is not adulterated. What is the price of this wine? How do you sell it ? How much does it cost per bottle ? Have you any good beer ? white beer, small beer, or porter ? Have you any good cyder ? Have yon any good brandy ? Give me a glass of corn brandy. A glass of French brandy. Give us some arrack, rum, brandy, or cham- pagne, sugar and le- mons for preparing punch. Make us a warm or cold punch. This punch is too strong, pour some le- monade into it. Put the punch into a bowl,- and give us a larger spoon and glasses for drinking it. At what hour do you chuse to dine or ■sup ? At twelve or two o’clock, and I beg you not to make us wait : but to let us be served precisely at the ap- pointed hour. Bring us a tea-pot, cups and saucers, egg- cups, milk-pots, tea- spoons, a sugar*bason, Donnez-nous surtout du vin bien naturel. Quel est le prix de ce vin ? combien le vendez - vous ? Combien la bouteille ? Avez-vous de bonne biere ? de la biere blan- che, de la petite biere, du porter ? Avez-vous du bon ci- dre ? Avez-vous de bonne eau-de-vie ? Donnez-moi un verve d’ eau-de-vie de grains. Un verve d’ eau-de-vie de France. Donnez-nous du rak, du rum, de l' eau-de-vie ou du vin de Cham- pagne, du sucre et des citrons pour faire du punch. Faites-nous du punch chaud, du punch f void. Ce punch est trop fort, remettez-y de la limnnade. Mettez le punch dans un bowl, et donnez-nous une grande cuityere a pitnch et des verves pour le servir. A quelle lieure voulez- vous diner ou souper ? A midi, a deux heures , et je vous prie de ne nous pas faire attendre, et de nous servir ex- actement a I’heure con- venue. Apportez-nous une theiere, des t asses, des soucoupes, des coque - tiers , dts pots au laitj D 49 Ci dia sopra tutto del via pretto. Qual’ e il prezzo dt questo vino ? quanto Io vende ? Quanto costa la bot- tiglia ? Ha della buona bir- ra ? della birra bianca, della birra piccola, del porter ? Ha del buono sidro? Ha della buon’ ac= qua-vite ? Mi dia un biccbier d’acqua-vite di grano, Un biccbier d’acqua- vite di Francia. Ci dia del rack, del rum, dell’ acqua-vite, o del vino di Sciam- pagna, del zucchero, e dei limoni per fare del poncio. Ci faccia del poncio cajdo, del poncio fred* do. Questo poncio e troppo forte, ci metta ancora della limonata. Metta il poncio in una scodella (bowle), e ci dia un gran cue- chiajo da poncio, e de’ bicchieri per berlo A che ora vuole pranzare, o cenare ? A mezzo giorno, alle due, e la prego di non farci aspettare, e di ser* virci ali’ ora stabilita. Ci porti un ramino da te, deiie tazze, delle sottocoppe, de’ scodel- ' liui per I’uova, de’ vast At Table . SO sugar-nippers, a salt- seller, some glasses for liquor, a tea-caddy or canister, a chafing-dish and spirits of wine. Put the kettle on the fire. Bring us some boiling water in a tea-pot ; put some tea in it, put in two, three, or four spoons full. Let it draw some minutes ; now fill the tea-pot with boiling ■water. Pour out the tea. Take care lest you hum yourself, or spill it upon the table. Wipe the table, or rub down the table. Give us a cloth to wipe the table. Make us a dish of chocolate with milk or water. un petit pot au lait, des cuilleres a cafe, un su- crier, une pince a sucre, une saliere, une carafe, des verres a liqueur, la boite a the, un rechaud a l' esprit de vin. Met- tez la bouilloire sur It rechaud. . Apportez- iwus de Veau bouillante dans la theiere, mettez y le the, mettez y deux cuillerees, trois ou qua- tre cuillerees de the. Laissez infuser quel- ques minutes ; a present remplissez la theiere d'- eau bouillante. Verse z le the . Prenez garde de vous bruler ou de repandre sur la table . Essuyez la table, don- nez-nous un torchon pour essuyer cette ta- ble. Faites-nous du cho- colat au lait ou a Veau. da latte, de* cucchia= rini da calfe, una zuc- cheriera, delle pinzette da zucchero, una sali- era, una caraffa, de 1 bicchierini da liquori, la scatola da te, uno scaldino a spirito di vino. Metta il ramino sullo scaldino. Ci re- chi dell’ acqua bollente nel vaso da te, ci metta il te, ce ne metta due, tre, quattro, cucchiaja piene. Lo lasci in infusione alcuni rninuti, adesso riempia il vaso da te d’acquabollente. Versi il te, badi bene di non iscottarsi, o di spandere sulla tavola. Asciughi la tavola ; ci dia uiiq straccio per ascingar questa tavola. Ci faccia della cioc- colata nel latte, o nel‘1’ acqua. At Table, Lay the table-cloth. We want a round ta- ble, a square-one. Lay the table-cloth. This cloth is not clean. Give us some nap- kins. Have yon no finer napkins, not so coarse and more gen- teel ? Let us have tfcera^ DIALOGUE XV. Pour parler a Ta- ble. Mettez le couvert ; il nous, faut une table ronde, une table carree. Mettez la nappe. Ce linge n’est pas propre . Donnez-nous des ser- viettes. N’avez-vous pas des serviettes plus fines, moins grosses, plus bel- les ? Donnez-nous-les . Per parlare a Ta» wla> Coprite la taVola. Ci bisogna una tavola rotonda, una tavola quadrata. Mettete la tovaglia. Questa biancheria non e pulita. Dateci delle salvi- ette. N on avreste delle salvietle piu fine, men grosse, piu belle. Da- tecele. Let me have a spoon, ■ft knife, a fork, a large soup-spoon, a ragout- spoon. Let me have a plate. Take that dish away ; put this nearer; get . this dish warmed. Bring us a large or 1 small plate for salad. Instead of these forks with two prongs have not you any with three? Have you a cork- screw ? a marrow- spoon ? Bring me a bason ■with a plate and cover. An earthen one, one of porcelain or silver. Have you no spoons besides pewter ones ? none besides pewter dishes ? Order this to be put on the gridiron. Bring us a StFw-pan. This is not well tinned ; there is some verdigrease in it. Clean it, let us have | another. Take away the soup dish. Where are the ,/ butter-boats and gravy- i 1 ewers? . li D Bring us a tankard beer ? At Table « Donnez-moi une cuil- lere, une four chette, un couteau, une grande cu - Mere a soupe, une cuil- lere a ragout. Donnez-moi une assi- ette. Otez ce plat; avancez ce plat ; faites re chauf- fer ce plat. Apportez - nous un grand ou un petit sala- dier. An lieu de ces four - chettes a deux dents, n'en avez-vous pas a trois dents ? Avez-vous un tirebou- chon ? un tire-moelle ? Apportez-nous une ecuelle, avec son assi- ette et son couvercle. Une ecuelle de terre, de pnrcelaine, d' argent, N’avez-vous que des cuilleres d’etuin ? des plats d'etaxn ? Allez mettre cela sur le gril. Apportez-nous une casserolle. Cette casserolle n'est pas bien etamee, il y a un peu de vert-de gris. Nettoyez-la, donnez- en une autre. Otez la soupiere. Chi sont les heurrieres et les saucicres? Apportez-nous un pot de biere . A Dated hn cucchiajo,, una forcina, un coL tello, un cucchiajo grande da minestra* un cucchiajo da guaz< zetto. Dated un tondo, tint piatto. Levate via quest© tondo ; accostate quel piatto ; fate riscalda? questo piatto. Portateci un grande, o un piccolo piatto d’insalata. In vece di queste forcine due denti, non ne avreste di quelle a tre ? Avreste un tira- stroppi, un cavamh dollo ? Portateci una sco« della col suo piatto, q col suo coperchio. Una scodella di terra, di porcellana* d’argento. Non avete che de* cucchiaj di stagno ? che delle scodelle di stagno ? And ate a luetter do sulla graticola. Portateci una casse- rolla. Questa casserolla non e stagnata bene, c’ d sopra un po’ di verde* tame. Nettatela, datecene un’ altra. Levate via la sco* della dalla zuppa* Dov’ e la scatola da butirro, il vasetto delle salse ? Portateci un fiasco di birra. *D % 52 This sugar must be sifted a little; it is not fine enough. This salt is not white enough. Scatter it on a hot shovel, and it will get whiter. I will cut up or carve this chicken, this leg of mutton, this duck, this beef. Give me a good knife that cuts well. You must sharpen this knife a little. I beg you would give me something to drink, and a plate. Place the bottle, the glasses, and the plates on our side, and we will help ourselves. I do myself the pleasure of drinking your health. May I help you to this dish ? What do you wish ? What do you desire ? Which do you pre- fer, a wing or a leg ? Do you chuse the back, or the rump of this chicken ? You don’t eat. I have eaten enough already. I am much obliged to you._ I had rather not. This roast meat is done too much. This yagout is too salt. This At Table . Tl faut passer ce su- cre au tamis, il n’ est pus assezfn. Ce set n'est pas asset blanc, Faites le blan- chir sur nne pelle rouge. Je vais couper ce poulet, ce gigot, ce ca- nard, ce boeuf, $c. Donnez-moi un bon couteau qui coupe bien. II faut fair e repasser ce couteau. J e vous prie, donnez- moi a boire et un assi- ette. Mcttez pres de nous les bouteilles, les verres, une pile d’assi- ettes, et nous nous ser- virons nous-memes. J'ai Vlionneur de boire a votre sante. Aurai-je Vhonneur de vous servir de ce plat ? Que voulez-vous? que desirez-vous ? .. Que preftrez-vous, dt I'aile ou de la cuisse ? Voulez-vous la car- casse, ou le croupion at ce poulet ? Vous ne mangez rien. J’ai deja beaucoup mange. Je vous suis bien o- blig£. Je vous rends mille graces. Ce roti est trop cuit Ce ragout est trop sale. Cette sauce 4 si trop Bisogna far passar questo zucchero pello staccetto, non e fino abbastanza. Questo sale non e bastantemente bianco, fatelo imbianchire sovra una pallelta ro- vente. Io trinciero questo pollastro, questo cos- ciotto, quest’ anitra, questo allesso. Datemi un buon col- tello ben filato (tag- liente.) Bisogna dar il filo a questo coltello (bisogno aguzzarlo). Vi prego, datemi da bere, e un tondo. Mettete vicino a noi le botliglie, i’bicchieri, una pila di tondi, e ci serviremo da noi stessi. Ho Tonor di bere alia sua salute. Posso aver l’onore di presentarle questo piatto ? Che vuole ? che de- sk! era? Cosa preferisce, l’ala oppur la coscia ? Vuol l’arcarae (il carriosso), o la groppa di questo pollastro? Ella non mangia nulla. Ho gia mangiato molto. Le son ben obbli- gato, le rendo mille grazie. Quest’ arrosto e troppo cotto. Quest* intingolo (guazzetto) e 53 gravy has too much spice, or this sauce has too much sugar in it. Serve up the second course and the des- sert. I don’t drink any wine. I never drink liquors. I am waiting, for your orders to rise from table. Give us some water to wash our hands, and rinse our mouths. At an Ordinary . epicee et trop sucrde. Servez l’ entremets. Servez le dessert. Je ne hois pas de vin. Je ne hois jamais de liqueurs. J’ attends vos ordres pour sortir de table . Donnez-nous de i’eau pour 7ious iaver les mains, et nous rincer la bouche. Conversation at an Ordinary . Iiow much do they pay a head, for dining at this ordinary ? bread and wine included, (a pint of good wine) or without including wine. Is the entertainment at this ordinary good ? is it decent ? Gentlemen, dinner is on the table. Well, let us go up or down stairs. Why, this dinner looks very well. I will carve this fowl by your leave. As you please. Sir or madam, will you be so kind as to hand about this plate. Be so kind as to give me the salt-seller or su- gar-bason. DIALOGUE XVI Pour parler a ta- ble d’Hote. Combienprend-on ici par tcte pour un diner a table d'hote ? le pain et vin compris, ( une demi-bouteille de bon vin) ou sansy compren- ; dre le vin. Fait-on bonne, chere d cette table d’hote ? est on servi proprement ? Messieurs, on a servi. Allons, descendons, ou montons. Voild un diner qui a fort bonne mine. Je couperai cette pou- larde si Von veut. Tres-volontiers. Monsieur ou madame, voulez vous bien fuire passer cette assiette ? Anriez-vous la bonte de me donner la saliere, ou le sucrier ? a> a troppo salato. Questa salsa e troppo carica d’ aromati, e troppo dolce. Servite il trammesso. Portate le frutta (il dessert.) Io non bevo vino. Non bevo mai liquori. Aspetto il suo cenno per levarmi da tavola. Ci dia dell* acqua per lavarci le rnani, e dell’ acqua per sciac» quarci la bocca. Par pa rlar a tavo- la Rotonda . Quanto convien qui pagare per testa per pranzar a tavola ro- tonda ? compresovi il pane ed i! vino (una mezza bottigliadi buon vino) o senza compren- dervi il vino. Si sta bene a questa tavola rotonda? si e servito con pulizia? Signori, la minestra e in tavola. Andiamo, discendi- amo, o andiamo su. Ecco un pranzo d» buon’ apparenza. Trincierd io questa gallinetta, se si vuole. Mol to volontieri. Signore, o Signora, vorrebb’ el la far passar questo tondo ? Avrebbe la bonta di porgermi la saliera, la zuccheriera ? m Yes sir, no sir; I thank you I have plenty. May I help you to some more ? You must call the waiter, or servant- maid. There is no more bread ; there is no snore water. You must ring the bell. We want more plates. I want another pint of wine. May I offer you a glass of this wine ? It is very good. It has a genuine taste. Do you usually dine here ? They are rather slow in waiting upon us? we sit too long at table ; but the fare is pretty good. Do you prefer the German or English fare ? or manner of living ? One must accustom oneself in travelling to the different usage of the countries through which we pass, not appear astonished at any thing, and above all, not despise any thing. There are so many of us at table, and we are so crowded toge- ther, that I am afraid I shall put you to some inconvenience. I At an Ordinary* Oui monsieur , non monsieur, je vous remer- cie, fen ai suffisam- ment. En voulez-vous en- core un peu ? Ilfaudroit appeler le gar f on ou la servante . 11 n*y a plus de pain. II n'y a plus d'eau. II faut sonner . Nous manquons d* as - sieltes. Je voudrois bien en- core une demi-bouteille de vin. Vous ojfrirai~je un verve de ce vin ? II est tres-bon . 11 est fort naturel. Mangez-vouS hab't- tuellement a cette table ? Le service s’y fait un peu lentement, le diner ou le souper est trop long, mais assez bon. Aimez-vous la cuisi- ne, allemande ou an- gloise ? Quand on voyage il faut s' accoutumer a tons les differens usages de pays que Von parcourt , ne paroitre ttonne de rien , et surtout ne rien denigrer. Nous sommes tant de monde a table, et si ser- ves les uns contre les autres, queje crains de vous gtner , ' Si Signore, no Sig- nore, la ringrazio, ne ho abbastanza. Ne vorrebbe ancor un po’ ? Convien chiamar il cameriere, la serva (la cameriera). Non c’ e piu pane. Non c’ e piu acqua. Bisogna suonare. Ci mancano de’ piatti. Vorrei ancora una mezza bottiglia di vino. Le posso offrire un bicchiere di questo vino? E' eccellente. Si sente ch’ e sincere (schietto). Mangia ella per so- ldo a questa tavola ? Si serve con un po di lentezza, il pranzo, o la cena si trae trop- po in lungo, ma il manginre e assai buono. Ama ella la cueina tedesca, o inglese ? Quando si viaggia, convien accostumarsi ai differenti usi de* paesi, che si percorfo- no, non parer sorpreso di niente, e sopra tutto non dispreggia? mai nulla. Siamo tanti a tavola, e cosi serrati l’un con- tro 1* altro, ch’ io temo d’ incomodarla. Questions m arriving at an Inn . N-ot in the least I assure you. Sir be so kind as to move a little to that side, I have not room enough, I ask your pardon. Here is a place. Yonder is a place left. There is no place left. We must join a side table. 1 will sit at the side table. I think we may rise from table. Point du tout,je vous assure. Monsieur, voulez- vous bien av>ancer un peu de ce cote, car je n’ai point de place. Je vous demanda bien pardon. Voild une place ici. Voild une place la bas. II n*y a point de place. II faudroit faire mettre une petite table. Je me mettrai a la petite table. Je crois qidon pent sortir de table. m Niente affatto, l’as« sicuro. Signor mio, vorreb- be compiacersi di tirar- si un po’ verso quella parte, io ci posso ap« pena restare (ho ap- pena posto). La domando scusa* Ecco, qui c’ e un posto. Ecco un posto laggiu. Non e’ e piu posto, converrebbe lar metier un tavolino accanto. Io mi mettero al ta- volino. Io credo, che si j possa ievarsi da tavola. DIALOGUE XVII. Different Ques- tions on arriving at an Inn, and on calling for the necessary Implements for •writing. Diverses Ques- tions a faire en arrivant dans une auberge, et pour demander tout ce qu’ilfaut pour ecrire. Diverse Dimande y che si posson fare arrivando in un alhergo * e per dimandar quanto occorrs per iscrivere. When does the mail depart from this place ? What days are fixed for the arrival or de- parture of the mail, and, what are the hours fixed for the same ? There must be some letters for me not to be delivered till-called for. Is the post-office far from hence? Pray can you tell or show ate the way to it, Quand la poste am lettres part-elle d'ici ? Quels sont les jours oil la poste arrive( part ), et d quelle heure 2 Je dois avoir des lettres a la poste res- tante. Le bureau de la ■ ■poste est-il loin d id ? Voulez-vous bien m’en [ indiquer le chemin, ou o 4) Quando parte di qui la posta delle lettere ? Che sono i giorni, che la posta arriva (parte), e a che ora £ Io devo aver dell© lettere ferme in posta* L’ uffizio di posta e lontano di qui ? Vorrebbe compia- L cersi d’ indicarmene la 5 $ Questions on arriving at an Inn • or show my servant the way? Can I get a commis- sioner ? Have you any news- papers ? What newspapers do you wish to have? The latest. The French or Eng- lish papers, the Ger- man papers, the poli- tical journals. Will you subscribe towards them ? Yes, with all my heart. Pray tel! the land- lord or landlady, that they would oblige me very much, if they would give me the newspapers, after they have read them, and 1 shall return them again soon. Is there any news ? What news ? What is the news about town ? Is this account au- thentic ? This account is cer- tain, it is official news. We- are told so, it is asserted, we are as- sured so. I don’t believe it ; there are so many false reports circulated. Have you many lod- gers in your house ? What sort of per- sons are' those that lodge next to me? nfy cenduire, ou en in- diquer le chemin d men domestique ? Pourrois-je avoir un commissionnaire ? Avez vous les gazet- tes ? Quelles gazettes vou- lez-vous ? Les plus fraiches. Les papiers Francois, les papiers Anglois , les gazettes allemandes, les journaux politiques. Voulez-vous souscri- re ? Oui,je souscrirai vo- lontiers. Dites , je vous prie, au maitre ou d la mai- tresse de la maison, que lors qu’il aura lu la gazette, il mefera plai- sir de me la preter, que je la lui renverrai promptement, Y a-t-il quelque chose de nouveau ? Quelles nouvelles ? que dit-on de nouveau ? Cette nouvelle est-elle bien vraie ? Cette nouvelle est cer- taine, elle est qfficielle. On le dit, on le pre- tend , on V assure. Je n'en crois rien ; on debite tant de fuus- setis. Avez-vous beaucoup de monde da is cette au- berge ? Quelles sont les per - sonnes qui logent d cotd de moii strada, o di condur- mivi, o d’insegnare la strada al mio uomo (servo) ? Potrei io aver qui an commissionario ? Ha ella le gazzette ? Che gazzette vor- rebbe ? Le piu recenti. I foglj Francesi, i foglj Inglesi, le gaz^ zette tedesche, i gior» uali politici. Yorrebb’ ella asso- ciarvisi ? Si, m’ associero vo- lontieri. Dica, la prego, al padrone, o alia padro- na di casa, che quando avra letto la gazzetta, mi fara un piacere d’ imprestarmela glie- !a rimanderd pronta- mente. V'e qualche cosa di nuovo ? Che nuove ? che dice di nuovo ? Questa novita e poi vera ? Questa nuova e cer- ta, e ufficiale. Se lo dice, se lo pre- tende, se 1’assicura.- Non ne credo nien- le ; si spacciano tante falsita. Ha ella mold fores- tieri in quest’ albergo ? Chi sono le persone, che alloggiano vicino a me ? Questions on arriving at an Inn . When does he sei off? When does she set off ? I don’t know. I could like to write, or I want to write. I have my writing desk with me, and every requisite for writing. I only want a little ink. This ink is pale : it won’t do. Bring me paper, pen and ink, wafers, sealing wax, red and black sealing wax, fine paper, wove paper. These pens won’t do Get them mended for me. Can you make pens ? How do you like to have them ? Do you chuse to have them cut fine or blunt, with a fine or blunt nib ? Neither fine nor blunt, I like them very fine, very blunt. Are they to your mind ? Perfectly so. Have you a seal ? Fetch me one. Here is mine. Give me a penknife. This penknife won’t do. I want to mend a pen. Where is the ink- stand ? Where is the sand Quandpart-il? quand part-elle ? Je n'en sais rien; je V ignore. Je voudrois ecrire. J'ai mon icritoire avec moi, et tout ce qu'il mefaut pour Scrire. II ne me faut qu'un peu d' encre. Cette encre est blan - 1 che, elle ne vaut rien. Apportez moi du pa- pier, des plumes, de l' encre, des pains a, ca- cheter, de la cire d'Es- pagne , de la cire rouge , de la cire noire , du beau papier, du pa- pier velin. Ces plumes ne valent rien. Faites les moi bien tailler. Les savez-vous tailler ? Comment les aimez- vous ? Voulez-vous qu ’- elles soient fines ou gros- ses ? Ni grosses ni fines. Je les aime tresfines, ou tres-grosses. Les trouvez'Vous bon- nes ? Excellentes. Avez-vous un cachet ? allez in' eu chercher un. Void le mien. Donnez-moi un canif. Ce canif ne vaut rien. Je vais tailler ' une plume. Ou est Vencrier ? 57 Quando parte egli ? qnando parte ella ? Non ne so nulla* Vorrei scrivere. Ho meco il mio ea~ lamajo, e tutto cio che m’ abbisogna per scri- vere. Non ho bisogno che d’un po’ d’inchiostro. Quest’ inchiostro e pallido, non val niente. Portatemi della car- ta, delle penne, delP inchiostro, dell’ obbia- dine, della cera di Spagna, della cera rossa, della cera nera, della carta bella, della carta di velino. Queste penne non vagliono niente. Fa- temele tdmperar bene. Le sapete temperare ? Come le desidera? Vuol’ eila che lasciuo fino, o grosso? Ne grosso, ne fino; Io le a mo assai fine, o molto grosse. 'Vanno bene cosl ? Eccellente. Ha ella un sigillo? Vada a cercarmene uno. Ecco il mio. Mi dia un tempt rino. Questo temperino non val niente. Temperero una pen- na. Dov’ e il calamajo f Dov’ e lo spolverino I Oil est le poudrier ? d 5 2 $ Questions on arriving at an Inn , box ? sand. Fetch me some What do you chuse to have for that pur- pose ? Gold, or saw dust, or fine sand ? A light, a wax-can die ; for I must seal up my letters. Be so kind as to make me a cover to them. Seal up that parcel allez me chercher de la poudre a seeker V ven- ture. Quelle poudre voulez- vous ? De la poudre d'or, ou de la sciure de bois, ou du sablon ? TJne lumiere, une chandelle , une bougie , car il faut que je ca- chete mes lettres. Ayez la bontd de faire une enveloppe . Cachete z le paquet. I shall only write note. I will fold it up without sealing it. I will only write upon a card. Carry this letter to the post and don’t forget to enquire whe- ther it must franked or mot. Have you some money about you ? How much do they pay for franking a let- ter ? I have no change ? qu'un Here is some. Make all possible speed, I beg you would not lose any time. Make haste, make haste, look sharp, be gone. Have you delivered sny letter at the post office? Wasn’t it too late r Je n'ecrirai billet. Je le ployerui sans le cacheter. J’ ecrirai simplement sur une carte. Portez cette lettre a la poste, et n'oubliez pas de demander s'il faut Vajfranchir ou non. Andate a dell’ arena. cercarm* Che sorta d’arena bramerebbe. Avez-vous de 1’ ar- gent ? Combien donne-t-on pour affranchir une lettre ? Je n’ai pas de mon- noie. Tenez , en voild. Ne perdez point de temps, depechez-vous, je vous en prie . Allons, allons ; finis- sons, partez. Della polvere (dell* arena) d’oro, della se- gatura fina di legno, o del sabbione ? Una candela, una candela di cera, per- che devo sigillar le mie lettere. Favorisca di far una sopracoperta (sopra- carta). Sigilli il pacchetto (il piego). Non faro che scriver un biglietto. Lo pieghero senza sigillarlo. Scrivero solamente sopra una cartolina. Portate questa let- tera alia posta, e non Avez-vous mis ma let- tre a la poste ? j N'ctoit-ilpas troptard \ dimenticate di doman- dar se si deve fran- carla, o no. Avete del denaro con voi ? Quanto si da per francar una lettera ? Io non ho moneta. Ecco prendete. Non perdete il tem- po, spicciatevi, ve ne prego. Via, via, finiamola, andate. Avete portato la mia lettera alia posta ? Non era gia troppo ^-,1; 3 a Questions on arriving pi an Inn . 59 Have you franked it? In how many days might 1 have an an- swer, if I get one with- out delay ? Are there any letters for me ? Do you bring me any letters ? How many ? Go immediately to the post-office and en- quire for my letters. I want to get some visiting cards, whom must I apply to ? Do you wish to have the cards printed ? By all means. Do you wish to have any ornaments upon them ? No I want them quite plain. I want to buy some books. What books do you chuse to have ?- Some interesting works, to entertain me agreeably at my lei- sure moments. Will you send to the bookseller? Has the bookseller a large stock of books ? Does he understand German or French? Do you speak Ger- man ? No, I am very desi rous to have an inter- preter. Is an interpreter to Be had ? I want to read. Vavez-vous affran- chie ? Dans combien de jours pourrai-je en recevoir la reponse, si Von me repond sans de'tai ? Ai je des lettres ? m' upportez-vous des let- tres ? Combien ? Allez sur le- champ a la poste demander mes lettres. Je voudroisfairefaire des cartes de visites, a qui dois-je m’adres- ser ? Voulez-vous que ces cartes soient impri- mtes ? Assurement. Voulez-vous qu’on y grave des ornemens ? Non,je les veux tou- tes simples. Je voudrois acheter quelques livres. Quels livres voulez- vous ? Quelques ouvrages in- teressans pour m'amuser u temps perdu. Voulez-vous envoyer che% le libraire ? Ce libraire est-il bien assorti ? Sait-il l’ Allemand, le Francois ? Parlez-vous V Alle- mand, ? Non, et je voudrois bien avoir un interprete. Pourroit-on avoir un • interprete ? Je voudrois lire, L’avete francata? In quanti giorni po« tro io aver la risposta, se mi si risponde senza indugio ? Ho io lettere ? Mi portate lettere ? Quante ? Andate subito alia posta a ricercar della mie lettere. Io vorrei far fare de’ biglietti da visita, a chi potrei io indiriz- zarmi ? Vorrebb* ella che questi biglietti fossero stampati ? Sicuramente. VuoP ella che vi si stampino de’ fregj (de« gli ornamenti) ? No, gli voglio sem* plici affatto. Vorrei comprar al« cuni libri. Che libri vorrebb* ella? Qualche opera pia- cevole, per trattenermi nei momenti d’ozio. Vorrebb* ella man* dar da librajo ? Questo librajo ha egli un buon assorti- mento ? Intend e il Tedesco, il Francese ? Faria ella Tedesco ? No, ebramerei aver un interprete. Si potrebbe aver ur» interprete ? Bratnerei di leg- sere. 80 For purchasing ' Apparel. Could the landlord or landlady lend me any books ? What books do you want ? Has he any novels, theatrical productions, books on morality, or this year’s almanac ? He has only jour- nals. O ! I won’t have any of them. Do you chuse to sub- scribe to a circulating library ? What may the sub- scription amount to ; I should be glad to have a catalogue of the books from the direc- tor of the library. What do they pay per month ? Give me a tinder- box. Have you any tin- der? Give me some mat- ches. Dhole ou Vhotesse pourroient-ils me pre- fer quelques livres ? Que desirez-vous ? A-t-il des romans, des pieces de theatre , des livres de morale, V alma- nac de V amide ? II n’a qae des jour- naux. Oh ! je n’en veux point. Voulez-vous vous abonner ckez un li- braire ? Que me coutera cet ubonnement? — Je vou- drois bien avoir un ca- talogue des livres de ce libraire. Que faut-il donner par mois ? Donnez-moi un bri- quet. c >: Avez-vous de Vama- dou ? Donnez-moi des allu- meltes. L’oste, o 1’ostessa mi potrebbero forse im- prestar qualclie libro ? Che desidererebbe ella ? Ha egli de’ romanzi, dell’ opereteatrali, de’ libri di morale, Palma- naco di quest’ anno ? Non ha che de’ gior- nali. Oh ! di questi non ne voglio. Vorrebbe ellu. asso- ciarsi presso un ii* brajo ? Quanto mi costera quest’ associazione ? — Bramerei aver un ea- talogo de’ libri di ques- to librajo. Quanto qonvien dar- gli al mese ? Mi dia il focile (il battvfuoco). Ha alia dell’ esca ? Mi dia de’ zolfa- nelli. DIALOGUE XVIII. For purchasing Pour acheter de •wearing Apparel. quoi se vetir. Per comprar di che Vestirsi. How do you sell this stuff? What does the Pari- sian, the German ell, &c. come to ? That is very dear. I shall give no more than**.** It is not worth more. Consider whether you can let me have it Combien vendez-vous cette etoffe ? Combien coute Vaune de Paris ou d’Allemng- ne, etc. ? Cela est bien cher. Je n'en donner ai que Cela ne vaut pas da- vantage. Voyez, si vous voulez me la donner pour ce Quanto vende questa stoffa ? Quanto costa il brac- cio di Parigi, o di Ger- mania ? Cio e molto caro. Io non ne daro che Cio non vale di pid, La veda, se me la vuol lasciare per ques.« 61 On purchasing wearing Apparel . at that price. I will take ten ells. You must buy the ■whole piece. I will take it. — I won’t have it. Cut off twelve ells. Will you be so kind as to measure it? How much does this ribbon cost, this white silk lace, these bor- ders ? How do you sell this satin, lawn ? this strip- ed, plain, spotted, embroidered muslin ? this flpwery or painted gauze ? or this cam- bric ? I want to buy some cloth ? What sort of cloth ? Fine or ordinary cloth. For a coat, or great coat. I want to purchase a castor or beaver hat, a round or cocked hat. Have you any good linen for shirts or handkerchiefs ? I want also some di- mity, fustian, flannel, silk, cotton, thread, or ■woollen stockings. I want some taffeta for a gown, a cloak, or for lining a great coat. prix. J’en prendrai dix aunes. JL faut acheter la piece toute eniiere. Je la prendrai . — Je n’en veux point. Coupez en douze aunes. Voulez-vous bien la mesurer? Combien coiUe ce ru- ban, cette blonde blan- che, cette dentelle ? Combien vendez-vous ce satin , ce linon, cette mousseline rayee, iniie, mouchetee, brod£e ? cet- te gaze brocliee, peinte ? cette batiste? etc. Je voudrois acheter du drap. De quelle qualite ? De beau drap, du drap commun. C'est pourfaire un habit, une redingote. Je voudrois acheter un chapeau de castor, un chapeau rond, ou a trois comes. Avez-vous de bonne toile pourfaire des che- mises ou dts mou- choirs ? II me faut aussi du basin, de la futaine, de la Handle, et des bas de sole, des bas de coton, des bas deft, des bas de laine. II me faut du taffetas pour une robe, pour un manteau, pour une pe- lisse, pour une doub- lure . to prezzo. Ne pren- derd dieci braccia. Convien comprare la pezza intiera. Io la prenderd. — - Non ne voglio. Ne lagli dodici braccia. La vuol el la misu- rare ? Quanto costa questo nastro ? questo mcr- letto di seta, questo merletto di Fiandra ? Quanto vende questo raso ? questa rensa, questa mussolina ri- gata, liscia, a mos- chette, ricamata, ques- ta batista ? etc. Yorrei comprare del panno. Di che qualita? Del panno tino, del panno ordinario, E' per farmi un abito (vestito), ua sopra- tutto. Vorrei comprar un cappello di castore, un cappello tondo, o a tre becchi. Ha ella della buona tela per far delle ca- miscie, o de’ fazzo- letti ? Abbisogno pure del- la bambagina, del fus- tagno, del flanello, e delle calzette di seta, delle calzette di co- lone, delle calzette di filo, delle calzette di lana. Mi occorre del tafl, feta per un vestito, per un tabarto, per nna pelliccia, per una fo-, dera. 62 I want to purchase some silk for embroi- dery. Shew me all the different sorts you have. This silk is too fine, too coarse, too dark or light coloured. Have you no other ? What do you chuse to have ? I wish to have a straw hat, a hat with feathers, a night-cap, gauze kerchiefs,shawls, artificial flowers, pearls of glass or yellow am- ber, for a necklace or bracelets. Sewing or knitting-needles. A Lady’s Toilet. Je veux acheter de la sole pour broder, mon- trez-moi toutes les nuan- ces que vous avezi Cette soie est trop fine, elle est trop grosse, elle est trop foncde, elle est trop claire . IV’en avez- vous pas d’ autre. ? Que desirez-vous? Je voudrois acheter un chapeau de paille, un chapeau avec des plumes, un bonnet ne- glige, des fichus de gaze, des schalsy des fichus de soie, des fieurs ar- tficielles, des perles fausses, ou de V amove jaune pour fair e un col- lier ou des bracelets, des aiguilles a coudre et des aiguilles a tncoter. Voglio coraprar del* la seta per ricamare- mi mostri tutti i colori, ch’ ella ha. Questa seta e troppo fina, e troppo grossa, di color troppo carico* e troppo chiara. Non ne ha altra ? Cosa comanda ella ? Vorrei comprar un cappello di paglia, un cappello eon delle piume, una cuffietta negligee, de’ fazzoletti di velo, de’ shawls* de’ fazzoletti di seta, de’ fiori artifiziali, del- le perle false, o dell’ ambra gialla per far una collana o de’ sma- niglj, degli aghi da cu- cire, e de’ ferri da far calzette. DIALOGUE XIX. A Lady’s Toilet. Give me my stock- ings, my jacket, and my petticoat. Give me the powder- cloth. Put my toilet in order. Give me some water in a bason, some al- mond-paste or soap to wash my hands. Give me some water to rinse my mouth. La Toilette (Tune Femme. Donnez-moi mes bas , ma camisole, et mon jupon . Donnez - moi mon peignoir. Preparez ma toilette. Donnez-moi de Veau dans tine cuvette, et de la p&te d'amande ou du savon pour me laver les mains. Donnez-moi de Veau pour me rincer la bouche . Della Toeletta d r una Donna . Datemi le mie cal- zette, la mia camis- ciole, e la mia , sot- tan a. Datemi ii mio accap- patojo. Accommodate la mia toeletta. Datemi dell’ acqua in unascodella, e della pasta di mandole, o deL sapone per lavarmi le manii Datemi dell’ acqua .per sciacquanni la bucea. Where is the tooth- brush, the root for the teeth ? Give me some opiate or powder for my teeth, and my tooth-pickers. Give me a napkin and a towel. Give me a pair of scissars and a lace- bodkin. Give me my stays. Lace them. You lace them in too great a hurry. This stay-lace won’t do; have you no other? This bodkin is bro- ken, you must put in another. Where are my gar- ters ? Give me a cravat. Give me my jewel- case, sash, scarf, work- bag, white pins, black pins, pin-cushion. Look if my neck- handkerchief is not put awry. Fasten it with a pin. You hurt me. It is not well fas- tened. Tie my sash behind. Make a single, a dou- ble knot, put it not so fight. A Lady's Toilet . Ou est ma brosse , on ma racine pour Its dents ? Donnez-moi de Vopiat ou de la poudre pour les dents, et dts cure- dents. Donnez-moi une ser- viette et unfrotteir. Donnez-moi des ci- seaux et une aiguille' a passer. Donnez-moi mon cor- set. Lacez-moi. Vousser- rez trop vite. Ce lacet ne vaut rien, en avez-vous un autre ? Cette aiguillette est rompue, il enfautmet- tre une autre. Ou sont mesjarretie- res? Donnez-moi une cra- vate. Donnez - moi mon tcrin, ma ceinture, mon echarpe, mon sac a ouv- rage, des epingles blan- ches, des epingles noires, la pelote. Voyez, si mon fichu est droit par derriere. Mettez-y une tpingle. Vous me piquez. Cela w’est pas bien at- tache. Attachez ma ceinture par derriere : faites un noeud simple ; faites un noeud double, serrez-le bien. Ne serrez pas si fort . 6S Dov’ e il mio brus- chinetto da denti, la radice per i denti ? Datemi un opiato, o della polvere per i denti, e il mio stuzzi- cadenti. Datemi una salvietta, ed una pezzetta. Datemi un pajo di forbici, e un’ ago da stringhetto. Datemi il mio cor- petto. Allaciatemi. Voi stringete troppo pres- to. Questo stringhetto non val niente, he avete un altro ? Quest’ aghetto e rot- to, bisogna mettercene uu altro. Dove sono le roie Iegaccie? Datemi una cravatta. Datemi il mio scrig^ netto, la mia cintura, la mia sciarpa, il mio sacchetto da lavoro, delle spille bianche*. delle spille nere, l’a- gorajo (cuscinetto). Guardate se il mio fazzoletto per di dietro e dritto. Metteteci una spilla. Mi pungete. Non e attaccato bene. Attaccate la mia cintura per di dietro, fateci un nodo seem- pio, fateci un nodo doppio, serratelo bene. Non serrate (stringete) cosi forte. 64 ? Person lost in a Totvn. A Pull up my sleeves. Give me my pelisse, my muff and fan. Take away that glass. Put on my necklace. Give me my ear-rings. Give me a handker- chief, and a pair of gloves. Retroussez mes man- ches . Donnez-moi ma pe- lisse, mon m an chon et mon eoentail. Otez ce miroir . Attachez mon collier. Donnez-moi mes houcles (Voreilles. Donnez-moi un mou- choir, des gants , et des mitaines. Ripiegate le mie maniche. Datemi la mia pel- liccia, il mio manicotto, il mio ventaglio. Levate via quello specehio. Attaccatemi la mia collana. Date qui i miei orrecchini. Datemi un fazzoletto da naso, e dei guanti. DIALOGUE XX. Pour unePersonne Per una Persona egaree dans une smarrita in una For a Person 'who has lost his way in a town. Pray will you oblige me so far as to tell me, whether I am a great way from that quarter • - or street* * * * ? Is it far from here to* * • • ? I am looking for the house of Mr. « • • • or Madam • • • • Which way must 1 go? Must I turn after- wards to the right or left? Does Mr live here ? Will you favour me with hjs direction ? Will you be so kind as to point out to me the direction I must take, in order to go to • • » • ? Ville. Auriez-vous la bontd de me dire si je suis loin du quartier • • * • ou de la rue * • • • ? Y a-t-il loin d'ici d ? Je cherche la maison de monsieur • • • • ou de\ madame • • • • De quel cot£ dois je aller? Dois-je ensuite tour- ner d droite ou a. gau- che ? Est-ce ici que demeu- re monsieur? Vondriez-vous bien me donner son a- dresse ? Pourriez-vous ni'in- diquer le chemin queje dois prendre pour aller chez • • • • ou d* • • • Ctith* Vorrebbe aver la bonta di dir mi, s’io son lontano dal quar- tiere****o dalla stra- da**..? E' lontano di qui a****? Io cerco la casa del Signor. • • *o della Sig- nora* * * •? Verso dove ho io d’ andare ? (ove dev’ io dirigerrai ?) Dev’ io poscia rivol- germi a dritta, o* a si- nistra ? Sta qui di casa il Signor ? Mi vorrebb’ ella dare il di lui indiriz- zo ? Mi potrebb’ ella in,- dicare la strada, che devo prendere per an- dare dal* . . *o a* • • *1 65 Pray shew me the way thither, 1 will pay you handsomely. I will give you> ■ • •? Go before, I will follow you. Don’t walk so fast. Shew me the shortest way. There are too many hindrances in this street; let us take another way. Call for a coach. Coachman will you drive me ? I live in • • • • street. Letters , fyc, Voudriez - vous m'y conduire? je vous paye- rai bien. Je vous don- nerai • • • • Passez devant, je vous suivrai. N’allez pas si vite. Menez-moipar le che- min le plus court. Ilya trop d'embarras dans cette rue, prenons un autre cliemin. Appelez-moi un fia- cre. Cocker, voulez-vous me mener? Je demeure dans la rue • • • • Vorrestevoi condur- mici ? Vi paghero bene 3 Vi daro- • • • Andate innanzi, io vi seguiro. Non andate si pres- to. Conducetemi per la piu corta. C’ e troppo imba- razzo in questa strada, prendiamo un’ altra via. Chiamatemi un fia* cro. Cocchiere, volete voi condurmi ? Abilo nella strada* 4 LETTERS AND NOTES. I, To a Banker , •whom you are recommended to. | Sir, Being just arrived in this place, I desire you will be so good as to let me know the day and hour I may call [upon you, in order to ;i present you the letters pf recommendation that M*** of Rotter- jjdam or *** gave me for your house. 1 I I have the honour to be, Sir, j Your most humble and obedient Ser- I. A un Banquier auquel on est adresse. Arrive nouvellement dans cette ville je vous supplie, Monsieur, de vouloir bien m’indiquer, lejour et Vheure ou je pourrai me rendre chez vous, et vous remettre les lettres de recomman- dation qui vous sont adressees pour moi par Mr. *** de Rotterdam ou de ***, <£-c. J’ai Vhonneur d’etre, Monsieur, Votre tres-humble et tres-obeissant ser- viteur (ou oleis- sante servante ). I. A un Banchiere a cui e stato di* retto . Stimatissimo Signor, Giunto di fresco in questa citta, la prego compiacersi indicarmi in qual giorno e in quale ora possa io pre- sentavmi in casa sua per porgerle le lettere di raccomandazione in mio favore per parte del Signor*** di Rot- terdam o di ***. E con piena stima me le rassegno, divotissimo servo. m Letters, fyc. 11 . To a Member of Government to ash an Inter- view, Sir, I hope that your Excellency -will have the goodness to let me know the day and hour I may wait upon you. In thediopes of receiv- ing your orders, I have the honour to be very respectfully. Your Excellency’s most humble and obedient servant. III. On the same Subject to a Gentleman . compliments to M***, desires to know the day and hour he may call upon him, having something interesting (or of great Consequence) to com- municate. M*** hopes thatM*** will excuse his importunity.^ IV. To accejpt an Invitation. M*** will call with as great eagerness as pleasure upon Mr. *** II. Pour demander une Audience a une Personne en Place. Monsieur* J'ose supplier votre Excellence de vouloir bien m’accorder un mo- ment d'audience et de me faire savoir lejour et Vheurc ou je pourrai me rendre chez elle. En attendant ses ordres je suis avec respect, Monsieur, De votre Excellence le tres-humble, etc. III. Meme sujet un particu- lar. Mr. de *** auroit quelque chose d'intdres- sant ( ou d' important) a communiquer a Mr. ***, il le prie de lu\ indiquer le jour et Vheure ou il pourra se rendre chez lui ; ilespere qu'il voudra bien lui pardonner cette impor- tunite. IV. Pour accepter une Invitation. Mr. de *** aura V- honneur de se rendre avec autant d’empresse- II. Per domandare XJdienza a un Personaggio in Carica. Eccellenza, Dovendo communi- care a V. E. qualche afiare d’importanza, la prego degnarsi di con- cedermi un momenta d’udienza particolare,, con designarmi il gi- orno e 1’ora in cui possa presentarmi da lei. E con cio passo. a rassegnarmi rispet* tosamente, di V. E. divotissimo ed umi- lissimo servitore. III. Lo stesso So- getto ad un Par - ticolare . N. N. nel porgere i suoi distinti compli- menti al signor N. N. lo prega fargli sapere in che ora sta comodo per ricevere lo scri- vente, il quale deve parlargli d'un' affare d^importanza* IV. Per accettare un Invito . N. N. si fa un pre- gio di accettare 1* invi- to, di cui il signor N. N. according to his invi- tation. V. To refuse an j Invitation . I compliments to M***, having been !j engaged a week ago ij for Thursday next, cannot have the ho- nour of calling upon him that day, and pre- sents his excuses and regrets. VI. Excuses for having missed an Appointment, M*** is very sorry, jjthat it was not in this power to call yes- literday, or Monday past, upon M***. M** [wishes it to be be- lieved that he had neither forgotten nor neglected this engage- ment. He could not do otherwise. He will call very soon upon M*** to explain this [affair, and presents his excuses in the mean ,time. VII. Thanh. Madam, or Sir ac- cept all my thanks. I khall have the honour pf calling upon you to- LetterSj fyc. VII. Remerci- ment. «r VII. Di ringra~ ziamerito. Recevez, Mine ou I Mr. tons mes remerci- mens , j'aurai Thonneur d’aller moi-mcme vous Farei torto al mio dovere se mancassi di porgervi i piu distinti ringraziamehti pel fa- meat que de plaisir a T- invitation de Mr. ***. V. Pour s’excu- ser de se rendre a une Invitation. Mr. de *** est en- gage depuis kuit jours pour jeudi, il supplie Mr. de *** d'agrier ses excuses et I'assu - ranee de tous ses re - grets. VI. Pour s’excu- ser d’ avoir man- que un Rendez- vous. Mr. de *** est au desespoir de n’ avoir pu se rendre chez Mr. de *** hier, ou lundi pas- se. IL le supplie d’etre persuadd qu’il n’est coupable. ni d'oubli, ni de negligence, [l n’a pufaire autrement. IL ira lui-mtme incessam- ment chez Mr. de *** lui porter sa justifica- tion et ses excuses . si e corspiaciuto ono« rarlo, per cui lo rin- grazia e gli fa mille compliment!. V. Per iscusarsi di accettare un Invito. N. ISf. trovandosi da otto giorni impegnato per ia giornata di Giovedi, prega il sig- nor N.N. di scusarlo se non pud accettare il di gradire nel tempo stesso i suoi distinti ossequj. VI. Per escusarsi di aver mancato a un appunta « mento. N. N. e mortifica- tissimo di non essersi trovato all’ appunta- mento di jer, o lunedi passato ; questa sua mancanza per altro non e provenuta, nd per dimenticanza, ne per trascuranza, ma per un motivo che egli communichera al sig- nor N. N. domani, quando si rechera in sua casa per chiedergli le debite scuse. Formation of Italian Words , fyc. night or to morrow, to renew them. les renouveller ce soir mi demain . vore compartitomi ; ? mi faro un pregio di rinnovarvi un simile atto fra breve, venen- do personalmente a vostra casa. VIII . To aslc Let- ters of Recom- mendations • VIII. Pourdeman- der des Lettres de Recomman- dation. VIII . Per chiedere Lett ere di Rac- comandazione. I mean to set off immediately for ***. Could you be so good as to give me letters ot recommendation for M*** and Mrs. *** you will oblige me very much and I will be very thankful. I have the honour to be, &c. Je pars incessamment pour '■***. Auriez- vous, Monsieur, Vex- treme bonte de me din- ner des lettres de recom- mandation, pour Mr. *** et Mine ***, vous me rendrez un grand service et je serai heu- reux de vous le devoir. J'ai Vhonneur d'etre, etc . Dovendo partire fra breve per *** prego la vostra bonta di la- vorirmi qualche let- tera di raccommanda- zione pel signor *** e per la signora **'*. Sard questo per me un favore segulato di cui ve ne sard pepetua- mente tenuto. Con che sono con piena stima, etc. FORMATION OF ITALIAN WORDS FROM THE FRENCH. Nouns ending in A. Abbondanza, Abondance, Abundance. Clemenza , Clemence, Clemency. Cologna, Cologne, Cologn. Comedia , Comedie, Comedy. Gloria, Gloire, Glory. Natura, Nature, Nature. Montagna , Montague, Mountain. Liberia , Liberte, Nouns in E. Liberty. Amante , Amant, Lover. Prudente, Prudent, Prudent. Cardinale, Cardinal, Cardinal, Cavaliere, Chevalier, Knight. Regolare, Regulier, Regular. Barone , Baron, Baron. 69 Formation of Italian Words , fyc. ^agione, Raison, Reason. f route. Front, Front. r nglese. Anglais, English. Ipiendore , Splendeur, Splendor. ngratitudine , Ingratitude, Nouns in 0. Ingratitude, °aggio> Page, Page. r ino. Vin, Wine. r ano. Vain, Vain. taliano , Italien, Italian. hntrario, Contraire, Contrary. lello, Beau, Handsome. reneroso, Genereux, Generous. lagnifico, Magnifique, Magnificent. Jativo , Natif, Native. tree, Arc, Ark. * arlamento , Parlement, Parliament. 1 roc.esso , Proces, Process. 'orso. Cours, Course. Observations respecting the similitude Tench Orthography. between the Italian ’ orzione , Portion, Portion. Horno , Jour, Day. 1 iglia > Fille, Daughter. ‘ ianco , Blanc, White. 'lore. Fleur, Flower 'ianta, Plante, Plant. h iave , Clef, Key. 'silio, Exil, Exile. lassima, Maxime, Maxim, iccetto, Except*?, Except. ollezione , Collection, Collection. ostante, Constant, Constant. > trutto, Instruit, Instructed. 'esta, Tete, Head. bile. Habile, Clever. astello, Chateau, Castle. 'rase, Phrase, Phrase. dm are. Estimer, to estimate. imettere, Remettre, to replace. Hfendere , Defendre, to defend. i pone. Savon, Soap. utore. Auteur, Author. or go. Bourg, Borough. avoro. Labeur, Labour. ontento, Content, Content. .ontcnto, Mecontenty Discontent, A Specimen of Jive of the Italian Dialects , which hear being a translated Fragment of the Novella IX, 'by the Chevalier Salviati. VENICE. Eve voi donca dir, che al tempo del primo Re de •Ciprio, quando el Signor Gottalreo dei Bajoni se fese patron della Terra Santa, 1’ intravenne, ch’ nna certa Zentildonna de Vascogna, se fese peile- grina, e a quel muodo andete per so devotion, a visitar il Santo Sepul- cro, e compio il so viazo, tornando indrio la povera Asapa zonzette in Ciprio, e qua non vojando dctte in to le man de a’cuni giottini, che ghe fese de stranii schrici intorno, e fo cosi oltraza da quei raa- rioli, che no possandose atta sentar, ne consolarse per neguna maniera, den- tro al so cuor appassionao se deliberette de darghe tma querela inanzi al Re per farli castigar. Ma fosse chi se voja ghe fo pur ditto, che essa laverave el cao al aseno, perche quel Re giera un certo pezzo de carne con do ocelli, murlon, e che esso no solamente no haverave punio quei cavestri, che i’havea inzuria essa. Ma se quei stessi ghe havesse fatto 1’ istesso arlasso a eilo medemo. MANTUA, resembling that of Boi.ogna, and other places of the Romagna. Ossu, dig duncJia, ch ’ in d ’ l temp del prim Re de Cipri, dapu ch ’ Gotfrid Bulion qniste Terra Santa, ac- casche, ch’na zntildonna d Guascogna ande in plgrinaz a vussitd ’/ Spuin', d’ ond toman d in dri, dapo oh la fo rivada a Cipr, da cert mnrihuei malandrin la fu assaltada , e dsnorada, e d’eost tant la s lamen- tava, e /’ ira tant dspra- da, che la n saioa ch fas ; ma pur final ment la s pense d ’ nda dal Re, e digit i oltraz , ch ghira stat fat. Ma po n 1 so chi il sengh, ch la n'araufat ngotta, prehe- 'l Re ira si dabben, e d ’ si bona vita, ch’ l n s curava solamente di d piasi ch’ ira fat a i altr ’, ma po gnanc hi n’ dava ment a coi . TEXT. Dico adunque, che ne’ tempi del primo Re di Cipri, dopo il conquisto fatto della Terra Santa da Gottifre di Buglione, av- venne, che una gentildonna di Gu- ascogna in pellet grinaggio ando al Sepolcro, donde tornando, in Cipri arrivata, da alcuni scellerati uoraini villanamente fu ol- traggiata ; di che ella senza alcuna conzolazion dolen- dosi, penso d’ an- darsene a richia<; mare al Re ; ma detto le fu per alcuno, che la fati- ca si perderebbe: ' perciocche egli era di si rimessa vita, j e da si poco bene, jj n me Resemblance to the Classical Tuscan Language , riomata L of Boccaccio s Decamerone , as published NAPLES. Dico adunca, che le lo tiempo de lo rrimmo Re de Cipro , la po che fo acqui- tata la Terra Santa la Juffredo de Bug~ Hone ’ ntravenne , che tna gentile donna le Guascogna : jo in pellegrinaggio alio Seburco , e tor nannosene, come fo arrivata in Cipro da cierti huomenni tri- sli fo assai maltrat- laia : della quale posa essa senza nis riuna consolatione pigliannose dolore densao de se ne fire a fare na que re ’la a lo Re< ma li p ditto da cierti, p. he ce perdarria la j fatica : perzoche isso lira d’una vita cost murosa, e tanio da WCQ, PADUA. A Donca av6 dire, che a i tempi del primo Re de Ziprio, daspo che Gotta- freddo Babion se fe paron della Santa Terra, 1* intra- vegnc, che una zettaina de Goasconia si se fe pelle- grina, e si ande arvisitar el Santo Sepurchio, e tor- nando da livelo la arrive in Ziprio, e per so mala desgratia la fo malmena malamen da no so qui cattivi Cristiani : ben sa, che la poveretta, no pos- sando darsene pase, ne sapiando, che fare altro, la se deslibre d’ andare da Messer Segnor el Re, che fesse rason : ma el ghe fo pur ditto da chi haea la tratega de quel Re che la faiga serave persa, perque li era d’una vita si sdramazza, e cosx da puoco ben, che ello no solamentte el no fasea vendetta con justizia a chi se doleva, che qual- chun ghe haesse fatto qualche inzuria, ma, che e pezo, el solfria quelle. BERGAMO. Perzo au dighi, cV a i tep dot prim Re de Zipri, daspo ol recupe* ramet, che fes Gottfred de Bajo de la Terr A Santa, al se imbatte una fomna de sang zentil de Guascogna , chesfes pe- legrina, e andet al Se- pulcher del Nos Signur per so devotiu : e in dol lorna in dre , e zota in Zipri, al ghe fu fag u* trent'’ u da chi se fos homegn de mal affd, e hruttamet inzuriada : tant che quia poureta nos podiva consola per neguna manera chesfos ; pur las pense de voli andu dinaz a ol Re per fag savi ol tug . Ma, com sefus, la intis a di che qul Re era un tur* lulu, e u pastonaz da fa di gnocch, da nient , e che la so fadiga saref u pesta V aigxia in d'u. morter : che lu nofaseva raso a negu. Italia ! Italia ! O tu cui feo la sorte Dono infelice di bellezza, ondl hai Funesta dote d’ infiniti guai, Che in f route scritti per gran dogl.ia porte . Deh fossi tu men bella, o almen piu forte ! Onde assai piu ti paventasse , o assai T amasse men, chi del tuo -hello ai rai Par che si strugga, e pur ti sfida a morte. Che or giii dull Alpi non vedrei torrenti Scender dl armaii, ne di sangue tinta Peter C onda del Pd Gallici armenii . Ne te vedrei del non tuoferro cinta Pugnar, col braccio di straniere genti , Per servir sempre, o vincit/ ice o vinta . Filicaja. PICTURE OF ITALY. CHAPTER I. ROUTES LEADING TO ITALY. There are six principal routes by which the I traveller may enter Italy. Five of these are taken from France and Switzerland, and one from Ger- many. Those who pass through the former | countries may visit Italy, l. By the Simplon. 2. By Mont Cenis. 3. By Mont St. Bernard ^ By j Mont St. Gothard. o. From Lyons to Avignon, Aix, and Antibes (through Provence) to Genoa or Leghorn, by sea ; or from Nice, or from either place, by land. This route may also include Mar- j seilLss and Toulon. 6. From Germany, by the Tyrol ; going from England to Brussels, Liege, Spa, j Aix-la-Chapelle, Cologne, Mentz (on the Rhine), and thence through the Tyrol to Verona. There are other routes by which the Alps may be passed, as by the Petit-Saint Bernard, by Griesberg, by the j Splugen, and by the Mer de Glace (sea of ice) of Montan vert. See. but as these are little frequented^ we shall not describe them. B Routes leading to Italy, % sect, i .— Passage of the Simplon „ This is the shortest route from Paris to Rome, being 176 posts; while that by Mont Cenis, Turin, Alessandria, Bologna, and Florence is 203 posts ; but this last distance may be reduced to 196 posts, if the traveller goes from Bologna to Rome, direct, by Forli and Spoleto. The route commonly pursued from Paris 1 to Dijon is by Troyes, and over scites of ground ce- lebrated for the various battles recently fought there, between the French and our allies. There are three other roads to Dijon ; one by Fon- tainebleau, one by Melun, and another by Auxerre, but the distance is nearly the same in all. Those, however, who have seen Paris, and do not wish to deviate for the purpose of viewing Lyons, may proceed direct from Calais to Dijon, by Saint Omer, Arras, Laon, Rheims, and Langres, the whole distance being 66 posts or 351 miles. Dijon, the chief town of the department of the Cote d’Or, one of the most highly cultivated dis- tricts in France, is situated in an agreeable and fertile plain, between the rivers Ouche and Suzon. The castle, the hospital, the rue de Conde, the front of Saint Michael’s churchy the work of Hugues Sambin, the rival and friend of Michael Angelo; and the front of the church of Notre Dame, a chef-d’oeuvre of Gothic architecture, are worthy of particular no* * The best companion from London to Paris, as well as viev of the last capital is “ Tronchet’s Picture of Paris,'* Passage of the Simplon » 3 lice. The effect of this last, however, has been much injured hy the revolutionists, who broke and defaced the statues with which it was embellished., Other remarkable buildings are the palace of the government, and the grand square. The Char ~ treux, once so renowned for its palaces, its church, its mausoleums, and its luxurious table, fell a sacri- fice to revolutionary fury. The two tombs of the Dukes of Burgundy, in Parian marble, and other tnagnificent monuments of the arts, were destroyed, and the ploughshare has passed over a great part of the monastery which contained them. There are two spires, however, -which still excite the notice of travellers, that of St. Benignus, 375 feet, and that of Saint John, 300 feet in height. The University of Dijon was, formerly, one of the most considerable in France. Dijon has a Museum, which is in one of the wings of the antient palace of the Dukes of Bur- gundy, and possesses some good pictures, marbles, and engravings. The public walks are very beau- tiful, particularly that of the Course , which leads to the park. Besides this, may be named those of the Aiquebuse, the Retreat, and Tivoli. This town gave birth to Bossuet, Buffon *, Crebillion, Piron, E In the route to Dijon by Joigny and Tonnere, we pass through Montbard. Here may be seen the house in which Buffon spent the greatest part of his life. It is in the high street, and the j court is behind. You ascend a staircase to go into the garden, I raised on the ruins of the antient mansion, of which the walls make the terraces. On the top there still remains a lofty octagon, tower, where Buffon made his observations on the reverberation of the air. This singular and picturesque garden is well worthy of notice. In quitting this interesting spot, the column erected to Buffon by his son is seen, on which there was once the fol- lowing inscription: “ Euce.lsx turn humiles columna — Patent 1 * suofilius Buffon.” That revolution which caused these words to | be effaced, also condemned to the scaffold the writer of them, who died, pronouncing only in a calm and dignified tone, s< Ci~ pzeus, my name is — Buffon !” B 2 4 Routes leading to Italy* mid other illustrious men. Dijon lias a considerable commerce in corn, wine, wood, candles, printed cottons, muslins, playing cards, and woollen and silk stockings. It has a large nursery of mulberry trees, and a mineral spring called Saint Anne. The population is about 22,000. Inns. — Hotel de la Cloche, the Post, Hotel du Chapeau Rouge, Saint Andre, &c. No. 1. From Dijon to Geneva 25J posts, about 142 English miles. fROM POSTS. Dijon to Genlis»»«»« 2 Auxonne • • • .• if Dole • • « .............. 2 Mont-sous Vaudrey Poligny c 2\ Champagnole . 2f JVlaisunneuve (J ura) 1* FROM POSTS. Saint Laurent • if Morey If Les Rousses If LaVattay If Gex.... 2 Geneva (a) 2 Inn s. — ( a ) La Balance, l’Ecu de Geneve, la Cou- ronne, all good; les Trois Maures, l’Hotel d’Angle- terre, about ten minutes walk from the town, in a most exquisite situation. At this place, however, no person is received without an equipage. At Genlis, within sight of the road, is a chateau, belonging to the lady of that name, so well known by her numerous works for the instruction of youth. Near Jmornie is a plain where a battle was fought between the French and the Allies. This town is situated on the Saone, and has a castle, an arsenal, a school of artillery, a foundry of cannon, and ma- gazines of pow der and salt-petre. It also has a com- merce in grain, cloth, serges, wine, and wood. Po- pulation, 5,000. Dole is remarkable for little but its hosiery, iron and glass works, and coal mines. It was once a place of great strength, but Louis XIV. destroyed Passage of the Simplon . 5 the fortifications in 1674. The church of Notre Dame, the college, and the public walk called the Course , are worthy of notice. Population, 8,200. Poligny is situated on the Gian tine, at the foot of the mountains, and has a population of 5,300 persons. It has manufactures of cutlery and clock- work. Morey is a very pretty little town, remarkable for the neatness of its buildings and its romantic si- tuation. Here is a considerable cotton manufactory, and one of pins, and dials for clocks and watches. It reckons 1,100 inhabitants. From Morey to Gex is a succession of the wildest and most picturesque scenery. In ascending and descending the moun- tain of Gex (one of the Jura chain) eight or nine hours are employed ; this is one of the truly magni- ficent new roads cut by order of Bonaparte, and is a part of the grand route leading to the Simplon. In descending, near the road is seen the fohtaine Napoleon, with an inscription. Those who have never crossed the Alps, will be forcibly struck with the magnificence of the Jura mountains, and will observe with astonishment the union of some of the noblest works of art, with the grandest productions of nature. A short distance from Geneva, is Ferney, the re- treat of Voltaire, where the house in which he re- sided, together with its furniture, is still shown. Nothing can be more striking or beautiful than the situation of Geneva . Its blue lake, surrounded by hills, which form the first step in the vast amphi- theatre of mountains, crowned by the highest sum- mits of the Alps, and above all by Mont Blanc , offers to the eye the most interesting and extraor- dinary spectacle. The lake of Geneva ( Laciis Le- manus) is very deep, is never frozen, and abounds 1 with excellent fish, particularly trout of an enormous ifize and delicious flavour. Population, 23,000. S3 * - • . - v § Routes leading to Italy. Geneva is equally celebrated for its commerce and its literature. Clocks and watches, jewellery. Merino shawls in imitation of cachemire, blankets, thread, enamel of all colours, sadlery, &c. are the principal manufactures. Its college, academy, and library of 40,000 volumes (including manv precious MSS); its cabinet of pictures and philosophical in- struments, the rich collection of natural history and Alpine curiosities of M. Saussure, and the cabinets of other individuals, sufficiently attest its encourage- ment of literature and the arts. Geneva has given birth to many celebrated men, among whom may be named the learned Casaubon, the sentimental Rous- seau, the financier Necker, and that indefatigable observer of nature M. Bon?^et. John Calvin and Theodore Beza were once its College Pro- fessors. The upper part of the town contains many beau- tiful private houses, the Hotel de Ville, and the Ca- thedral, the marble front of which is a copy of the Pantheon. Geneva has been long celebrated for its laws, its regulations, and establishments of every kind ; its pastors are at once zealous and eloquent in the discharge of their religious functions ; and its society is polished and well informed. The en- virons of Geneva are delightful, and the banks of its lake are studded with chateaux, among which may be named the elegant residence of Madame de Stael Were an Englishman disposed to spend the remainder of his days on the Continent, we know of no place to which he might so satisfactorily retire (w ith or w ithout a family) as to Geneva. The junc- tion of the Rhone and the Arve near the tow n, and la Perte du Rhone, at some distance from it, equally demands the notice of the traveller.. But it - w ould exceed our limits to say more of this enchant- Passage of the Simplon. 7 ing spot : the best guide to its curiosities and beau- ties is M. Bourrit’s Itineraire de Geneve, des Gla» ciers,fyc. 1 ( lmo. which is continually reprinting, with adduions. This may be procured of M Paschoud, at Paris, Rue des Petits Augustins, No. 3 , or of the same firm at Geneva. M. Bourrit has also published six interesting volumes on the Alps, parti- ticularly Mont Blanc, which, together with Saus- sure’s / oyage dans Its Alpes, and Ebel’s Description generate des Atpes, will afford sufficient information to the most inquisitive The English reader may consult Coxe’s Switzerland, an abridgement of which has been lately announced by the publishers of this guide. See also a new work on Switzerland, in 2 vo!s. royal 8vo. by A. Yosy, for fifty elegantly co- loured plates of costume, and a description of the dresses and manners of the Swiss. No. 2. From Geneva to the Si mplon,48|‘ posts. FROM POSTS Gfnkva to Do\ r aine- • • • • • Thonon 2 E VUill • • • • • ••• !•••«• • * • \ " FROM POSTS Glise, or Brigg Berisaai 3 Simplon 3 X se ll e j i Si* ml f inrrmi v . ........... C) \ lotmaz • ••••••» «••••••• j fin mn S;i mt iVTonripn . . . _ ..... i fi CTi UT115J a* 1 i. i > ogugua It irl rUu. . Sjo.v Ai Sicrrc ••••*••• ••••••*••• $/X UClgllftla* • x Sesto Calende* • • t| Cascina 2 jXbo \ L Milan ( a -) • ° 11 Inns. — ( a) L’Auberge de la Ville, L’Auberge Royale, Three Kings, the Well* 1 If the traveller wish to avail himself of the Dorr.o d’Ossola diligence, which leaves Milan on Tuesday and Saturday, at 'two in the afternoon, and meets the post on arriving at DoinO d’Ossola, on Wednesday and Sunday mornings, he should address a note to the bureau at the inn of Saint Ambrose a la Valla, at Milan. 8 Routes leading to Italy. It is quite impossible for language to convey any adequate idea of the wonders of the Simplon. To be described it must be seen. It combines throughout the awful and the sublime with the pic- turesque and the beautiful. There is not, perhaps, any place in the world where the aflonished traveller will perceive, in such rapid succession , the wildest and rudest scenery intermingled with smiling vallies and cultivated fields. This wonderful monument of human labour and ingenuity, which may justly claim the admiration of the world extending from Geneva to Milan, was constructed by order of Bonaparte, under the direction of M. Ceard, on whom it con- fers immortal honour. In the course of this grand route, more than forty bridges of various forms are thrown from one wild chasm to another — numerous galleries or subterranean passages are not only cut through the solid rock, but through the solid glaciers 1 also — those “ thrilling regions of thick-ribbed ice” •—and if to these we add the aqueducts which have been built — the walls that support and flank the whole of the route — together with the innumerous works of art which must necessarily enter into and form a part of this more than Herculean work — we are at a loss which most to admire, the genius which contrived, or the skill which executed, so stupen- dous a work. More than 30,000 men were con- stantly employed in this undertaking, which was finished in 1803, after three years incessant labour. The road is now wide enough to admit three -car- riages abreast, but until the year 1801, it was impass- able. The new route is still exposed, towards the close * It may be proper here once for all to observe, tiiat the glaciers are beds of ice, more or less thick, which are lodged upon decli- vities, between the mountains. These beds, increased from time lo time,, become of a considerable extent and thickness, some- times to the depth of 3 or 400 feet. Passage of the Simplon. 9 of winter, to ava!anches y and landslips, but the greatest precautions are taken to prevent any serious mischief from these accidents, and every year ren- ders them less frequent. These avalanches are formed of snow, driven by the winds against the rocks, where the quantity is accumulated, and supported by their ledges and pio« jections, till successively increased, both in extent and depth, to a prodigious size ; at last they over- charge the base which kept them up, break off by their own weight, and falling with a dreadful crash, thunder down into the valley, carrying every thing with them in their way, frequently burying travel- lers, houses, and sometimes whole villages. The jingling of a bell, or the least noise, is sufficient to bring down one of these avalanches in narrow de- files, where the muleteer always takes off this ap- pendage. A celebrated traveller, in the year 1785, who went on horseback from B.rigge, observes — “ Those who, like Rousseau, love to contemplate the dizzy heights need only traverse the Simplon to Stat- fetta, to gratify their taste. It is in these places that the lover of nature in her most tremendous forms should stop, and seize his pencil to delineate her most striking scenes. Mountains overthrown!, schist rocks mixed with granite, whose sterile and perpendicular tops overshadow’ the road, and take awaj from the traveller the light of day — the deepest precipices, the crosses and chapels erected to com- im mol ate the depths of unfoi unate travellers ; these, added to the impetuous torrents which tumble from the mountains, and lose themselves among their ruins, may convey to the reader some faint idea of the sublime and awful picture which nature pre- sented to my mind, in the passage of the Simplon. 8 10 Routes leading to Italy . E’en now, while Alpine solitudes ascend, I sit me down a pensive hour to spend ; And placed on high above the storm’s career. Look downward where an hundred realms appear ; Lakes, forests, cities, plains extended wide, The pomp of kings, the shepherd’s humble pride. But to return. On quitting Geneva, and tra- versing the southern side of the lake, the mountains on its borders have a very different appearance. On the Swiss side, the hills of the Pays de Vaud are covered with rich vineyards, which are found through- out this highly cultivated country, ornamented with so many pretty towns and villages. The mountains which rise on the side of Savoy are more varied, but less fertile : the immense rocks seem to preci- pitate themselves into the lake, and their black mas- ses, crowned with inaccessible peaks, are reflected in its transparent waters. Thonon , the antient capital of the Chablais, plea- santly situated on the lake of Geneva, is the first town of any notice. The scite of the castle is in a very remarkable situation. At a little distance is seen the convent of Ripaille , which has a beautiful park. About a mile from Thonon we pass the Drance by a very long and narrow bridge. The as- pect of the road, hitherto somewhat monotonous, changes all at once : hills, covered with wood, rise on the right of the traveller, presenting to the eye groves of fine walnut-trees. We now pass the source of the Amphion, known for its mineral waters, and once much frequented ; it is still visited by the Ge- nevese, and the inhabitants of Savoy, in the months of July and August. Evian , remarkable for the rocks of Meillerie, has a cotton manufacture, and contains 1 500 inhabitants. On leaving this town, properly speaking, the new route commences. At a little distance, on the left. 11 Passage of the Simplon . are the villages of Grande-Rive, Petite-Rive, and La Tour Ronde, inhabited by fishermen. Ropes, made of the bark of trees, are suspended from the trees, in the course of the route. After la Tour Ronde, we approach the village of Meillerie, and here the road becomes particularly interesting. Very near Saint Gingoulph there is a rock on the side of the lake, crowned with verdure, which will give the traveller some idea of the obstacles which nature offered in the construction of the road, w hich is car- ried over rocks 200 feet perpendicular Near Meil- lerie, the mountains are covered with holly and fir- trees close to the road, and the lake washes those rocks, over the tops of which the road has been cut. Rousseau has rendered this spot celebrated in his Nouvelle Heloise *. We now enter the new department of the Sim- plon, and arrive at Saint Gingoulph, from which place boats laden with fish, and larger vessels with hre-wood, go almost every day to Geneva, and the neighbourhood. The size of the lake now begins to diminish very sensibly, and its opposite banks are distinctly seen, together with the town of Vevap, the Chateau de Chilian, and the vallies and torrents which furrow 1 the sides of the mountains of the Pays du Vaud. At a little distance from Boveret, which we next pass, the valley between the Rhone and the moun- tains becomes extremely narrow, and the road is car- ried over a draw-bridge through a chateau, called the Porte de Ce, which is placed in a remarkable s u Le sejour ou je suis est triste et horrible ; il eh est plus conforme a l’6tat de mon ame, et je n’en habiterois pas sj patiemment un plus agr6able : une file de roehers st6riles borde la cote et envirouue mon habitation, que l’hiver rend encoi'e'pTus affreuse on n’aperpoit plus de verdure ; l’herbe est jauue et fletrie, les arbres sont d^pouilles j ie sechard et la froide bis® entassent les neiges et les glaces.” 12 Routes leading to Italy . situation. Very near is a ferry over the Rhone. On the other side of the Porte de Ce, are meadows full of fruit-trees, interspersed with houses and well cul- tivated gardens, which are fenced with light hurdles made of the fir-tree. The beautiful villages of Vouvri and Monthey next appear,and persons with goitres (des cretins) and idiots, are met with in great numbers. Before their own doors, exposed to the sun, they throw their u listless length along” on the ground. The goitre , or swelling in the fore part of the neck is very large, and of an olive colour, and their appearance is alto- gether hideous. There are different degrees of idiotism among them ; some are employed in agri- culture, but the greater part are incapable of much work. M. Saussure ascribes this deformity to the hot and stagnant air of the vallies ; an opinion which has been corroborated by the healthy state of those children who have been brought up on the mountains till the age of 10 or 12 years. The number of these unfortunate creatures has, indeed, of late, been considerably reduced, by the humane atten- tions of those inhabitants whose circumstances per- mit them to preserve the children of the poor from this dreadful evil, by removing them to more ele- vated spots while young. To Saint Maurice, the’ road is a continued gar- den, where flowers and fruit, and groves of ches- nuts, intermingled with the vine, every where pre- sent themselves. Saint Maurice is a small town on the Rhone, defended by a castle, and built almost entirely on a rock. It is situated at the foot of a long chain of steep rocks, which just leave a space for the road between them and the river. The en- try into this town is very like that of the Porte de Ce, and the road seems a second time closed. Here is a beautiful bridge of a single arch 200 feet !S Passage of the Simplon, in lerigtli, supposed to be the work of the Romans, in the middle of which is a small chapel. On the top of the rocks commanding Saint Maurice is a church, and a small building inhabited by a hermit. There is a curious Mosaic pavement in the town, and many antient medals have been found here. The country between Saint Maurice and Martigny is very sterile, and the valley is covered with bram- bles. The road which leads to the Pisse Vache, the most celebrated waterfall in the Valais, extends along the banks of the Rhone, among vast frag- ments of rock, severed by time and tempest from their original height ; many little villages are occa- sionally observed on the sides of the mountains, prettily diversified with fruit trees. The river Sa- lenche which forms the Pisse- Vache, tumbles from a perpendicular height of 300 feet, and the water, dashing against the rock in its fall, causes a brilliant spray or mist, which conceals the rock itself, and leaves the imagination nothing to wish for. Opposite to Martigny are the two villages of Branson and Fouilly, situated in the hottest part of the Valais; the former is celebrated for its wine. Marligmj is a well built town on the Riione, in a highly cultivated valley, where the roads from France, Italy, and Chamouny meet x . There are two exquisite sorts of wine in this part of the Valais called Coqueniperi , and la Marque . The valley of the Rhone is larger than any in Switzerland, being between 80 and 90 miles in extent from the mountains of la Fourche to the lake of Geneva. It is also one of the lowest, for it is little elevated above the sea while Mont Rose, i Being now in the neighbourhood of Mont Blanc, we will state the height of this mountain as given by Sir George Shuck- burgh and iVl. de Luc. By the former it is mentioned at 15,662 feet, and by the latter at 15, 302*. G M Routes leading to Raly* Mont Cervin, and the other mountains which bor- der the valley are some of the most lofty of the old Continent. The Valais, also placed in a temperate latitude, unites the productions of the hottest and the coldest climates. In the summer months the I rays of the sun, reflected and concentrated by the j high mountains, produce an extraordinary heat ; — - the aloe and the Indian iig are here brought to per- ! fection, and grapes of which a strong wine is made — - | while on the tops of the same mountains, covered j with snow, we find the rhododendron and the ra- rest alpine plants *. The wearied traveller, not re- ; freshed by a breath of wind, walks slowly over these burning rocks, teased by the troops of insects which buzz around him, and deafened by the shrill cries of the cicada. The clouds also, attracted by the elevated peaks of the mountains, hang over the Valais, and frequently burst in torrents of rain : j this water runs from the mountains into the valleys, and a great part of it remains stagnant in the marshes which border the Rhone. On quitting Martigny, sterile rocks and marshes are presented to the eye, but the country soon j changes, and we discover beautiful pastures, and terraces of vines raised on walls, one above the other, at the foot of those mountains, turned towards the south : villages, churches, and oratories, remarkable for their whiteness, decorate the heights which com- mand Sion. Sion is situated on the declivity of two eminences, on the top of which are the palaces of Mayoria and Tour billon, belonging to the Bishop, from which 1 For a list of the most remarkable plants on Montanvert — at Breves, at the Col de Baljie, and In a garden at the height of 9,000 feet, — see Boui; jut’s Itineraire de Geneve, ! des Glaciers, $c. pp. 202- -4. Passage of the Simplon . 15 there is a fine view of the town. Behind rise Aips of a prodigious height, and, at their foot is seen the Rhone, winding round a promontory. The great church in the centre of the town is a splendid edifice, and the hospital is a fine modern building, besides which there is a convent of Capuchins, and a town house remarkable for its strength, antiquity, and sin- gular form. The streets are wide, and the houses well built. In this place, again, are a number of Cretins (persons with swellings on their necks) idiots, deaf and dumb, imbecile, and almost insen- sible to blows ; they have goitres which hang down to their waists, and do not discover a spark of reason : they are, however, very voracious, and eager to supply themselves with food. Some remains of the Romans have been found at Sion. On the other side of the Rhone, opposite to the town, in a small village, is a convent, entirely hewn out of the solid rock, with a kitchen, refectory, church, cells, and other apartments, but not inhabited on account of the dampness of the situation. We next pass to Sierre , which is pleasantly situated, and has a church and some good buildings. Here those in easy circumstances retire to spend their days : at Sierre also are found the most wealthy people in the Valais. From Sion to Brigg we pass over the thea- tre of the battles fought between the Valaisans and the French in the bloody war of 1798. Quitting Sierre, on the left is the town of Leuck , placed on the sides of a mountain and defended by an antient castle, w'hich once belonged to the bishops. The dress, the features, and the language of the people, are not less remarkable than the country which they inhabit. They speak bad German. Proceeding to Turtmann (Tourtemagne) we see a w r ater-fall, as beautiful as the Pisse-vache, but in a more singular situation ; a narrow and slippery path 16 Routes leading to Italy, leads to what might be called the arena of a natural amphitheatre of rocks, into which the torrent is pre= cipitated in an immense mass, with a tremendous noise. At Fiege , situated at the entrance of the vallies of Sass and St. Nicholas, are two churches of sin- gular architecture. Quitting this place, we crossmuch marsh) 7 meadow land, and at length the town of Brigg , with its towers, appears in the midst of mea- dows, woods, and groves , . On the left is the pretty village of Naters ; the Rhone, by which it is washed, descends from the summits of the Fourche, and the sombre vallies of the Axe. On the right is one of the first labours of the Simplon, the bridge over the Saltine ; the road which rises gradually is cut through dark forests of fir. From Glyss to Domo d’Ossola, a distance which is passed in fourteen or fifteen hours, there are tzventy-tzco bridges , and seven gal- leries cut out of the rock. In the chapel of the church at Glyss is a picture of George de Supersar and his wife, with her twelve sons and eleven daugh-i ters. The inscription is remarkable for its, sim- plicity. En l’honneur de Sainte Anne, George de Supersax, soldat, A fond£ cette chapelle 1’an de grace 1519, A 61eve uu autel et l’a enrichi En reconnoissance d^s vingt-trois enfans, Que son epouse Marguerite lui a donnes. We now begin to ascend the Simplon, and the first remarkable work is the bridge just mentioned, of a single arch, made of the wood of the larch (pinus larix) which is more durable than fir; it is * The influx of travellers to the Simplon will, we hope, compem- sate the unfortunate inhabitants of Brigg and its vicinity for their peculiar sufferings during the late wars ; as most persons rest or sleep at Brigg, although the road does not pass through the town, but through Glyss, a village at some distance. Passage of the Simplon . 17 covered to preserve the timber work from the rain. As we continue to ascend, there is a chapel on out left placed on the side of a mountain, and many little oratories built on the road which leads to it. We now begin to take leave of the world, its palaces,, theatres, and buildings, and to see in their place mountains, rocks, and trees : in the contemplation of Nature’s most grand and awful works, the mind is as it were lifted from earth to heaven, or as Petrarch lias most beautifully expressed the same idea: — - Qui non palazzi non teatro o loggia, Ma’n loro vece un’ abete, un faggio, un pino Tra Perba verde e’l bel monte vicino Levan di terra al ciel nostr’ iutelletto. To preserve the gradual inclination of the road, the constructors of this work were compelled to fol- low all the sinuosities of the mountain, and hence the bridge of Gunter is found in the bottom of a valley. A few paces before we arrive at this bridge, we pass th o, first gallery; it is one of the least, and is cut in a part of the mountain, where fragments of rock are held together by a clayey earth, which after much rain becomes slippery, and large stones fall down, and render the passage dangerous. It seems as if this road were constructed to brave the fury of the tempests, and resist the influence of time ; it passes from one mountain to another, dives under rocks, fills up precipices, forms the most ele- gant windings, and conducts the traveller by a gentle i ascent to the glaciers, and above the clouds. Well may we exclaim with Mr. Pope, while we tread these regions, that we Mount o’er the vales, and seem to tread the sky Th’ eternal snows appear already past, And the first clouds and mountains seem the last. But, those attained, we tremble to survey The growing labours of the lengthened way, TIP increasing prospect tires our wand’ring eyes. Hills peep o’er hills, and Alps on Alps arise. c T IS Routes leading Lo Italy . The gallery q/ Schalbet, which follows that of Ganter, is more than 100 feet long, and is remark- able for its situation : on one side of it is seen the road which we are going to pass, a small part of the valley of the Rhone, and the glaciers of Switzerland; at the other end of the gallery, we follow the road to the summit of the Simplon, which commands the Rosboden, and the Southern chain of the Alps. Below the Schalbet are the two houses called T«- vernettes , where travellers who keep the old road stop for refreshment. We now arrive at a height where the trees are small, languish, and finally cease to vegetate ; but their place is supplied by the rhododendron , which braves the severest cold, and is found close to the ice ; its wood affords firing to those who are at a distance from forests, and the beauty of its flower, called the rose of the Alps, refreshes the eye which has been so long used to contemplate the monotony of glaciers and sterile rocks. That part of the road between the gallery of Schalbet and the glacier galleiy is exposed to violent gusts of wind ; and the galleries are often blocked up with snow' : but the passage is seldom entirely closed ; and the diligence goes very regularly from Milan to Geneva. Labourers are continually em- ployed to remove every obstacle. The glacier gallery is situated at a little distance from the most elevated point in this route, where the convent and inn (hospice) is placed ; it is 'three stories high, and is inhabited by fifteen persons. Here, as at St. Bernard, and St. Gothard, all tra- vellers are entertained gratis; but those who can afford it are expected to make some trifling present to the convent. It is in this spot that the old road joins the new one, and five or six miles may be saved by following the. Passage of the Simplon* 19 latter on mules. This gallery, 130 feet in length, is cut through the solid ice , and although the most beautiful appearances are represented at every step, the cold is so intense, in the middle of summer, as to prevent the traveller from examining them. After two hours descent from the summit of the mountain, we arrive at the village of Simplon. It is surrounded by huge barren rocks, which are covered for many months in the year with snow, and is 444B feet above the level of the sea, in a dismal valley, near a foaming torrent bordered with larch trees ; the houses, which are roughly built of stone, are covered with the lichen, which gives them a yellow cast The inhabitants are clothed with sheep, -skins in the midst of summer, when they drive their docks into the vallies, and make their cheese^ almost the only repast of these humble mountaineers. To them may be applied, with the greatest propriety, the well known, but beautiful lines of one of the sweetest of our poets : — - Dear is that shed to which his soul conform*, And dear that hill, which lifts him to the storms: And as a child when scaring sounds molest, Clings dose and closer to the mother’s breast; So the loud torrent, and the u hirlu ind's roar , But bind him to his native mountain more. A little distance from Simplon the road turns upon itself, and leads us to the gallery of A/goby , about 200 feet in length on our right ; the tor- rent of the Doveria (called by the Germans Krutn» bach) traversing a thousand rocky fragments, rolls into the bottom of the valley, with a tremendous noise, and the trees and the cottages now entirely disappear. Near the gallery is a building designed to shelter the traveller from the passing storm, and 20 Routes leading to Italy. for the residence of labourers who keep the road dear from obstructions : carriages also may be put up in the court yard. There are three buildings of this kind on the road to Italy. Those who live at Algoby are deprived of the sun for many months in the year, in consequence of the height of the neighbouring* mountains. Farther on, the moun- tains approach so close, that before the road was completed, a rock fell from its pristine height, and still remains suspended over the traveller. We next arrive at the grand gallenj of Gondo, the most astonishing of all the works of the Sim- plon. It is six hundred and eight)/ three feet in length , and cut throughout in the solid granite : two large openings scarcely admit the light of day ; and the lioise of the horses’ feet, and the wheels of the carriages, mingled with the roaring of the Doveria, resound through its vaults Emerging from this cavern a bridge is seen thrown over a torrent Art and Nature, indeed, seem to have combined in this place every thing which is calculated to strike the imagination. On the side of the granite rock, which we have just passed through, the Doveria, tumbles over enormous blocks of stone, and “ boils into the gulph below.” 1 The blasting of this rock consumed an immense quantity of powder, and the gallery was the result of eighteen mouths constant labour both day and night. In this place some in- cription might naturally be expected — -either the name of the principal artist, or of the emperor of that country which sanctioned and encouraged this noble monument of human labour- — this eighth wonder of the world. The only inscription which 1 To see this magnificent fall completely, the traveller should walk a few steps into the old road, situated on the river opposite. Passage of ihe Simplon , 21 meets the eye is on the side of the gallery, in tzco words . /E"RE ITALO j MDCCCV Once more we behold the habitations of man, and a few straggling houses and a chapel constitute the dull and gloomy village of Gondo* One of these is an inn belonging to the barons of Stokalper, remarkable for its strange architecture ; its eight stories, its little grated windows, and its gloomy situation give it more the air of a prison than the dwelling of a freeman. It is however in unison with the scenery of these stupendous heights, from which the thunder of the rushing tide is often heard with terror and amazement E . The village of Gondo belongs to the Valais, not- withstanding which Italian is spoken ; about a mile farther is the village of Isella , the frontier of the kingdom of ITALY. Isella is equally miserable with Gondo, and no- thing is seen which announces the flourishing coun- try we are now entering. The appearance of the country is still wild, and now and then, are observed numerous huts constructed for the labourers which now serve to shelter goatherds and their flocks in the summer. In this part of the route, the road is * In the summer of 3799, the Simplon was successively occu- pied by the French and Aust.rians 5 who disputed the passage witfr £‘2 Routes leading to Italy, a causeway made of stones not cemented together, and which suffer the water from the mountains to pass through their crevices. Many bridges are still seen, but that made entirely of stone at the entrance of the valley, which leads to Cherasqua , is remark- able for its elegant simplicity. At a little distance from Isella, the rocks become more dispersed, and form a sort of amphitheatre the village of Dovredo now appears embosomed in chesnut trees. Here every house seems a mass of verdure, the vines being carried up to the roofs. The waters of the Doveria are again heard to roar. The next" object worthy of notice is a bridge remarkable for the con- vexity of its arch, placed near the ruins of another, whose brokeu fragments and pillars are discovered in the middle of the river. Another gallery is passed — the rocks recede still further, the fertile plain of Homo appears, and the magnificent bridge of Crcvola , thrown from one mountain to another closes the valley. It is formed of two wooden arches supported by a pillar of great strength and beauty. This is the last of the works of the Simplon *. And, here, we necessarily close our description of the passage of the Simplon, not without some fear of having trespassed on the patience of our readers. Of such a work, however, it was impossi- ble to speak, but in detail ; — and we trust that the artist, the man of taste, the engineer, and the general traveller, will all find amusement in our account of the Simplon. If the author has failed to eo'mmu- nicate a just idea of this immortal undertaking — to describe what no pen nor pencil can delineate, he a See an elegant little work entitled tl Lettres sur la Route de ! Gentve a Milan par It Simplon '* (to which we owe many obliga- tions) sold by Puschoud at Pans and Geneva. Every one who goes to Paris, will of course inspect the Exposition en Relief da jsimplon, etc. exhibited near the Cafe du Foi, in the Falais Royal, j It is a beautiful model of the whole route. A similar Exhibition; was lately to be seen at Mo. 123, New Bond Street. Passage of the Simplon , 2& has at least furnished those who may pass this route with a map , on which may be traced (where all is wonder) the most remarkable and striking parts of this grand and astonishing work. But to resume. On the banks of the Crevola is a village which lies at the foot of the traveller, and which disappears almost entirely under its vines and creeping plants. The situation of the bridge offers a contrast of another kind : on one side, is the ralley we have just passed, and the river confined by high rocks ; on the other, are extensive meadow's shaded by fine oaks, which are washed by the Toccia ; the plain of Dorno is covered with plants new to the traveller ; and the sides of the hills and mountains are studded with buildings of an elegant architecture, which announce to the traveller that' Italy is now before him — “ bright as the summer ^ Her uplands sloping deck the mountain's side. Woods over woods in gay theatric pride ; While oft some temple’s mould 'ring top between With venerable grandeur marks theseene. Domo d’ Ossola is a small, populous and com- mercial town ; the houses are well built and orna- mented with pictures. Here are some antient con® yents ; that of the Jesuits is constructed of black and white marble. Passing from the bleak and de- solate mountains, to the “ busy hum of men,” the traveller sees, with pleasure, the various groupes in the streets, the number of shops, and the whole town in motion : the piles of sugar, coffee, and cinnamon which lie on tables, exposed for sale, perfume the air, and the women who carry about, at the end of ong sticks, nosegays made of paper painted and gilt, attract the notice of the stranger. The environs of he town are planted with vines, which are supported £4 Routes leading to Italy, by small pillars of granite, and rise ro the height of seven or eight feet. Leaving Domo d’ Ossola, the road is quite straight as far as Villa, where a torrent is passed, over a fine bridge ; the village lies on the right, and some ele- gant buildings are observed on a well-wooded hill near it. The road now becomes stony, till we reach Massona , situated on the banks of the Toccia, over which there is a bridge. Opposite to Massona is the village of Vic de Muliere where the valley of Mont Hose begins to open ; a mountain inferior only to Mont Blanc, being 15,084 feet in height. In the midst of pine-trees and larches is the village of Macugnaga ; — this valley is remarkable for the beauty of its vegetation, and the richness of its gold mines. Sometimes, travellers quit their carriages on the banks of the Toccia, take a boat, and proceed down the river as far as the Lago Maggiore , and visit the two beautiful islets, called hoi a Bella and Iso la Madre, which together with the Lago di Como and Lecco are described at length in our account of the Environs o f Milan, infra. The route by land pre- sents nothing remarkable ; at some distance, on the left is the quarry whence the white marble was taken to build the cathedral of Milan. Belgirata and Arona are the next places of note; the latter is a little, but active, commercial town ; in the cathedral are some good pictures. Approaching Arona, the colossal statue of Saint Charles Borromeo is seen on the summit of a hill near the town ; it is of bronze, 70 feet in height, and supported by a marble pedestal. We now observe Indian corn, panicum , a species of millet, and fig-trees which afford excellent fruit. At some distance from Arona we ferry over the Q5 Passage of Mont Cents. Tesino where it leaves the Lago Maggiore ; the town of Sesto stretches along the opposite shore. Quitting Sesto we enter the plains of Lombardy, where no mountains bound the horizon, but vast plains of Indian corn, panicum and millet, line the road, and are only intersected by vine-arbours, and plantations of white mulberry trees. Many small towns are now seen, as Somma x > Gahrata , and Castdlanza ; and the traveller should deviate from the road to visit Leinata , the country residence of the Marquis of Litta, celebrated for the beauty of the gardens and the mosaic ornaments of the baths. At the large town of llho , is the fine church of Notre Dame des MiracteSy in which are some ex- cellent pictures. Two hours after we have left Leinata, we arrive at Milafj, w'hich is entered by the Foro Bonaparte, and by a grand triumphal arch. Milan will be described at length in a future P^e. sect. ii . — Passage of Mont Cents* [By Lyons and Chambery.] The most agreeable route from Paris to Lyons is by Fontainebleau, Sens, Joigny, Auxerre, and Chalons sur Saone; and from thence by water, passing the interesting town of Macon in our way. Lyons is celebrated for its antiquity, its extensive i commerce, its riches, and the calamities to which it has been subjected. It is one of I the most considerable cities in France and is most advantageously situated for commerce at the con- fluence of the Saone, and the Rhone, possessing s For an account of the antiguit’es of Somma, see Campqna’s Mmumenta Soma: etc. Routes leading to Italy. a population of 100,000 persons. It is in general, well built, but the streets are narrow, and paved with small sharp stones which are very inconvenient to pedestrians. The remarkable edifices , are the go- vernment house, the hotel-de-ville, where are two fine groupes in bronze, the magnificent library, the cathedral, the hotel-dieu, and hospital of La Charite. The useful and literary establishments are the lyceum, the academy, the veterinary school, the Athenaeum, the society of agriculture and of medi- cine, the exchange, chamber of commerce, and the mint, Lyons is celebrated for its silk manufactures of every kind, its gauze, crape, hosiery, printed cottons and paper, grain of all sorts and excellent wines, known by the name of vins de rivage. The envi- rons of Lyons are verv picturesque and abound with Roman antiquities. A line view may be had from the heights of Fourvieres ; — the Isle Barbe, Gha- ponnot, Mont'Cindre, and Mint d'Or, are replete with varied beauty. The public walks are le Bre- teau,the banks of the Saone, and the Allee Perraehe. From the quay of the Rhone, in clear weather, Mont Blanc may be distinctly seen. This noble city suffered most severely during the revolution, and lost three thousand of its inhabitants by the siege and by the guillotine. The venerable .De lan dine who has published a Catalogue Rais - onne of the MSS. in the public library, narrowly escaped falling a sacrifice in this dreadful carnage. He was imprisoned for some time, and has published a deeply interesting, but heart-rending narrative of the siege of this place by the republican army, and of the massacre of its loyal inhabitants. The guillotine was erected in the Place de Bellecour , the square of which literally overflowed with the blood of its vie* Passage of Mont Cents. 27 tuns. (See the Histoire da Siege de Lyon, depuis 1 7 8t> jusquen 1796, Bco. 2 tom. Paris, 1797*) From Lyons to Pont-Beauvoisin (nine posts) we pass through Bron, Saint Laurent des Mures, La Vespilliere, Bourgoin, La Tour du Pin, and Gaz. Bourgoin has a linen manufacture, great com- merce in dour, and a population of 3,600 persons. No. 3. From Pont Beauvoisin to Cham- bery, o Posts, 29 English miles. ■FROM ?OSTS. Pont Beauvoisin ( a ) to Echelles 2 St. Thibault de Coux • • • ChambRry ( b ) . \\ Inns . — ( a ) Three Crowns. ( b) Perfect Union M the Post, Three Kings. On arriving at Pont Beauvoisin situated on the Guer, which rises on the confines of Savoy and Dauphiny, a sensible change takes place in the country, the climate and the people. The moun- tains of Savoy with their woods, rocks, precipices and waterfalls forcibly arrest the attention of the traveller ; and from Pont Beauvoisin, till we have passed Mont. Cenis, the complexions of the men and women become of a darker hue, particularly on leaving Maurienne. Traversing a well-cultivated plain, covered with every kind of tree, vines, and cattle, we begin to as- cend the mountain of Echelles , on the most elevated part of which the road is protected by walls ; far- ther on the road is cut between the rocks, and is much exposed to avalanches, when the winter snows begin to melt. The village of Echelles is situated in a plain ; and, on the neighbouring heights are some D 2 28 Routes leading to Italy, ruins of castles which once defended the passage to it. At a short distance from the village, the traveller ascends the steep mountain of la Grotte, by a broad and well-paved road, scooped out of the rock and made by order of Charles Emanuel, second duke of Savoy, in the year 1670. Quitting this road we pass to colder regions, where at the end of June the w heat is still green, although in other parts of Savoy, it is nearly ready for the sickle. Approaching Chambery, the country sinks into a plain, and the climate is much milder. About three miles before we arrive at this town, on thejright, at a little distance from the road, is a cascade of the most limpid w ater, which, when the sun shines ou it, pre- sents all the colours of the rainbow'. The environs of Chambery, are agreeable and well cultivated. The large quantity of mulberry trees, announces to the traveller, the country of silk-worms. Chambery situated at the confluence of the Laise and Albano, is the most considerable town of Savoy, and has a population of 12,000 persons. The houses are lofty and well-built, but being con- structed of a dark-coloured stone, and the streets not very broad, the tow n has somew hat of a gloomy ap- pearance. The inhabitants are polite and w ell-bred, and their society is very agreeable. The public walk of V ernay at one of the gates, is formed of six rows of trees and is w ell frequented. Here are seen the remains of a palace which was burnt in 1745. Other objects worthy of notice, are the castle, the cathedral, the hotel de ville, the Tir de 1' Arquebusfe, the market-place, ^nd the public library, where is deposited a bas-relief of great merit. About a mile from the town are some sulphureous waters— and at the same distance are les Charmettes , celebrated by Rousseau. About three miles from Chambery, lit a place called les Abinies x in the year 1249, a Passage of Mont Cenis . £9 town of the name of St. Andre, together with six- teen villages, was buried by an earthquake. Those who have seen Lyons, and come hi- ther from Geneva , will lind the following route useful. No. 4. From Geneva to Chamber* 11 \ Posts, 46| English miles. FROM POSTS. Geneva to Luisette 2 Frangy (a) 2 Mionas If IIumilly (b) .......... If FROM. POSTS. llbens If Aix (les Bains) ( c ) If Chambery- 2 I n ns . — ( a ) The Palace, ( b) Three Kings, (cjl a Ville de Genes. Runiilly or Romilly is a small but agreeable vil- lage, at the junction of the Seran, and the Nephe ; here are the ruins of the fortifications destroyed by Louis VUI. in 1630. Near the lake of Bourget, is the little antient town of Aix (aqua Gratiana) much resorted to for its mineral waters. The baths are supposed to have been constructed by the Romans, and repaired by the Emperor Gratian. No. 5. From Chambery to Turin, 33J Posts. FROM POSTS. Chambery to Montme- l 1 a 2 Maltaverne If Aigucbelie (a) If La Cliapelle (Mont Blanc) 2 St. Jean d e Ma urienn e(&) 2f St, Michel* * 2 Modane 2f Ye may 2 FROM POSTS. Lans-le-bonrg * ....2 Mont Cenis 3 Molaret - .3 Susa (c) 2 Saint Georges ..if St. Antonin if A vi© Man a .............. i±. Rivoli . ii Turin ( d ) if (/;) St. George. (c)The Inns. — (a) The Post. Post, (d) L’Auberge Royale, 1’Hotel d’Angleteire, de France, les Bonnes Femmes etc. etc. i) 3 30 Routes leading to Italy . Approaching Montmelian, the citadel is seen on an eminence which is not commanded by any neigh- bouring height; on the right is a beautiful view over the Isere. Montmelian was formerly a place of great importance ; it i3 agreeably situated an the Isere, but has no remarkable edifice. The inhabit- ants appear poor, but cheerful. To the east of the town are many pretty country seats. The wine of Montmelian is celebrated. Population 1/200. Quitting this place, and passing over the Isere, the climate becomes colder, but the country is fertile. We next arrive at the village of Aiguebelle, where are the ruins of a church and some houses, buried by a sudden fall of earth and rocks from the top of the mountain ; these accidents frequently happen, particularly in la Maurienne, where the snow is heaped up and the mountains are high and the valleys narrow. The greater part of the inhabitants of this village are small, ill made, and afflictedi with goitres . Near Aiguebelle a fa- mous battle was fought in the year 1742. Below the town, the * Arc loses itself in the Isere ; the plain washed by this torrent becomes very narrow, and the mountains are high, little cultivated, and al- most inaccessible, St. Jean de Maurienne, is situated in the midst of the highest Alps, and is, after Chambery, the most considerable town in our route, yet it offers nothing remarkable. The streets are narrow and the houses ill-built. Its commerce is in cattle, timber for ship-building, and iron tools. Popula- tion (2,200. Some tine views are observed over the less elevated mountains. From this place to Lan- slebourg, there is a continual rise, and the air be- comes still keener. To the foot of Mont Cenis, there are forty miles of road, bounded on one side by a mountain, and on the other by a torrent. In Passage of Mont Cenis 31 the winter, and when the snow melts, avalanches are sometimes to be feared. Near Modane, about a mile out of the great road, is a considerable waterfall. Mountains of every fantastic shape and form — some sterile and soma covered with wood are now seen — not a single habitation eNcept the caves of the bears on their tops. The chamois are here very common as well as pheasants, which the Savoyards sell cheap. In the summer, the chamois are let out every morning to feed, and return every evening, before sun set, to be milked and housed. They keep in herds of twenty or thirty, one of which is always stationed as centinel, while the rest are feeding : the rein-deer- iichen (7. rangiferinus) is a favourite part of its food. The marmot also ( arc to my s viarmota ) is an inhabitant of the Alpine heights. It remains in a torpid state near the tops of the rocks during winter, when it grows exceedingly weak, and is so benumbed and inactive upon first coming out of its holes, as to be easily caught. It is about the size of a bare, and frequently served up at dinner, in the Swiss auberges. Near Lauslebourg, the women wear on their heads a piece of black or dark-colour- ed cloth, which only adds to their natural deformity. We now arrive at Lauslebourg , the last village of Savoy, situated at the foot of Mon r Cenis, Thoste who travel with a long suite of carriages and attend- ants, should send an avant -courier to apprise the major of Mont Cenis of their approach, and to re- quest the necessary assistance, according to the season, state of the roads, 3vc. &e. Until within these few years, carriages could go no farther than Lansiebourg, but were taken id pieces, and transported over the mountain, on the backs of mules. Their owners also followed them by the same conveyance, or in ekaises a -porleur^ 32 Routes leading to Italy . rush -bottomed elbow chairs, without legs, and car- ried by means of two poles, by porters appointed for this purpose. These men (of whom 100 were al- most constantly employed) were particularly strong, trod the roughest paths with the agility of goats, and shewed great dexterity in following the wind- ings of the mountain. Front six to ten porters were assigned to each person ; and their pay for this laborious occupation was about half a crown a day. The Nezv Road over Mont Cents made by order of Bonaparte, is practicable at all times of the year, for carriages of all sorts, it commences on the right of the Arc, over which the traveller passes by a tine wooden bridge with stone piers. The route is composed of six slopes on the side of the mountain, which are carried through forests of larch and fir to the summit. We next arrive at Ranmsse , a place much celebrated in winter before the opening of the new road. The moun- tain being then covered with one solid smooth crust of snow or ice, the traveller was seated in a chair, placed upon a sledge guided by one man, and ar- rived at Lanslebourg in seven minutes , travelling nearly at the rate of a mile in a minute. The de- scent was very dangerous, as the least clumsiness in managing the sledge, or motion of the foot was sufficient to precipitate the traveller into an abys T s, or crush him against the rocks. At present, the sledge may be used on the new road with perfect safety, but with less celerity. To travel in this way is called se faire ramasscr , and hence the name of the place. When we have attained the most elevated point of the route, a plain of six miles, with a beautiful S3 Passage of Mont Cents . lake lies before uh. The new road in tliis part has been so contrived as to avoid those avalanches which rendered the old one dangerous. This plain, when the snows have melted, offers such excellent pas- turage, that very good cheese is made by the per- sons w ho reside here. The lake abounds with trout, and gives rise to a rivulet which at Susa fails into the Dora-Riparia ; it forms a fine cascade about a mile from the lake. The naturalist will tind many ob- jects of curiosity ou the summit of Mont Cenis. Near the cascade are some remains of lava which cover more than a square mile. Here is also a spe- cies of white butterfly, with large round spots, like that which Linnaeus saw among the mountains of Sweden. The botanist will reap a plentiful harvest. On the l c 2th of August, Dr. J. E. Smith found the plain of Mont Cenis all flowery with the rarest alpine productions, such as the botanist delights to see, even dragging on a miserable existence in our gardens, and the greatest part of which, disdainful of our care and favour, scorn to breathe any other air, than that of their native rocks. Even the most common grass here was phleum alpinum, and the heathy plain glowed with ritododendrumferrugineuni and arnica mont ana. Numerous species of arena* ria, silette, achilUca, astrogalus , and juncus , were every w here scattered. “ Ascending little Mont Cents, fronting the Hospice, and 9,9-36 feet above the level of the sea, (continues Dr. Smith) no low- land scenes can give an idea of the rich entangled foliage, the truly enamelled turf of the Alps. Here we were charmed with the purple glow of Scutellaria alpina ; there the grass was studded with the yivid blue of innumerable gentians, mixed with glowing crowfoots, and the less ostentatious astran ia major and saxifraga rotundifolia, whose blossoms require a microscope to discover all their beauties; while the alpine rose ( rosa alpina) bloomed on the bushes* $4 Monies leading to Italy. and as a choice gratification for the more curious botanist, under its shadow, by the pebbly margin of the lake, carex capillaris presented itself. The riches ot nature, both as to colour and form, which expand so luxuriantly in tropical climates, seem here not diminished, but condensed.” 1 The road by which Hannibal entered Italy, is said, by many authors, to be about 30 miles E. of Mont Cenis ; but as this is a matter of doubt, we may as well suppose, with Mr. Eustace, that his route was over Mont Cenis, by the old road. In front of the lake is a hamlet of Tavernettes (little houses of refreshment ;) and at the end of it on the Piedmont side, and parallel with the road, are the buildings of the Hospice, or convent, (the central inn of Mont Cenis) conducted on the same principle, and under the same excellent regulations as that of St. Bernard 2 . <( Here, (may we truly say, with Mr. Eustace,) amid the horrors of the Alps, and all die rigours of eternal winter. Religion, in her humblest and most amiable form, has, from time immemorial, fixed her seat; to counteract the ge- nius, of the place, and the influence of the climate; to shelter the traveller from the storm ; to warm him if benumbed ; to direct him if bew ildered ; to re- lieve him if in w r ant ; to attend him if sick ; and if dead, to consign his remains with due rites to the grave.” There are twenty-five cantonniers , who keep small inns or places of refuge for the traveller, which are dispersed in different parts of the route, according to the difficulties or dangers which pre- sent themselves. Those on the plains of Mont 1 The Hospice is 6,369 feet above the level of the sea; but the Lighest point oi Mont Cenis is 11,97? feet. a See Dr Smith’s Tour on the Continent, (Vol. III. pp. 133, 139, HO.j an excellent Botanical Guide in a tour through Italy. 35 Passage of Mont Cents . Cenis are provided with a bell, which is rung, in foggy weather, to direct the stranger to the inn. In the winter, the cantonniers are employed in remov- ing the snow, and rendering assistance to passengers ; in the summer they keep the road in repair. The articles sold at these places are exempted from duty. During the passage of the mountain, particu- larly on the top, even in summer, the traveller will rejoice to find a fire at the inn ; the ratafia also will be very acceptable. At the Grancle Croix , ting plain ends, and we commence our Descent to Piedmont. Above the plain of San JSlicolo, is a gallery cut in a solid rock of granite, fioG feet in length, which gradually ascends to the top, where the chamois has never trod. The wild aspect of the plain of of San Nicolo, even in summer, is very striking. From this gallery to the hamlet of Bart, are some beautiful views and slopes. Opposite to the village of Ferric res is another gallery cut in a rock of gra* nite ; and to Bart the road crosses a rivulet over a wooden bridge. To prevent the falling of the earth and stones in this part of the route, there is a wall nine feet high. We next enter the department of the Po, and after some time, in front of Mollaret , discover the well cultivated hills of Chaumont, washed by the ! Dora-Riparia, which descends from Mont Genevra;- and on the left the valley of Cenis, as far as Susa. From Mollaret, with some slight exception, the ; road is carried through the rocks, and on the edge iof a frightful precipice, which is flanked by a stone wall. From the last place may be discovered the whole valley of Cenis, together with the villages of Novaiezza and Venans. After quitting Saint Martin, the road passes under 36 Routes leading to Italy* an avalanche , which commences at a very great height, and empties itself into a basin, from which the water is carried off by a long and winding canal. The avalanche is partly stopped by the road, which opposes a barrier to it, but yet it sometimes extends itself to the hamlet on the plain of Mont Cenis. This avalanche which falls every year, and some- times twice in the year, fills up a width of 230 feet over the road. As it commences, however, at a great distance, it makes a loud noise, like the rolling of distant thunder, sometime before its fall, and the traveller has thus abundance of time to shelter him- self in the middle of a gallery cut in the rock. The road now 7 winds by four gentle slopes to the fountain in the village of Giagfioni, and passes over hills covered with vegetation, and commanding a picturesque view of the valley of the Dora, and of the hill of Turin, which bounds the horizon. • The road continues from the bridge of St. Koch to the faubourg of Susa, following the left bank of the Dora. Charges, Tor a horse or mule ...... .......... 2 francs. For a cha * retie or carriage not on springs 3 ditto. For a can iage on springs ...... 6 ditto. The passages of the Simplon and of Mont Cenis, may be justly considered as two of the most wonder- ful w orks of modern art ; and though the latter may yield in extent and variety to the former, it deserves to be ranked w ith the Simplon, to w hich it is closely allied, by the number of its galleries, bridges, aque- ducts, canals, &c. &c. The pass of Susa vvas once defended by the fort of Brunette, which is now entirely demolished : it Was situated on a little height, and cut in the rock. Passage of Mont Cents « $f It had eight bastions, which, with the other works, had a communication by subterraneous passages under rocks, so large, as to admit carriages and heavy cannon, with several horses, to go from one place to another. It held 2,000 men with all their provisions, &c. &c. It was the work of fifteen years. Here Bellisle perished in 1747, the victim of his bravery. There was also another fort in front, on another rock, which communicated with la Brunette , and entirely commanded the valley of Susa. Susa , (the antient Segusium) the first village of Piedmont, is inconsiderable, and has but a small population. Not far from the town is a triumphal arch erected in honour of Augustus, near an antient chateau, once inhabited by the Marquis of Susa. The road from Susa to Turin (more than forty miles) passes over a plain washed by tfie Dora-Ripa- ria. The vine is now seen united to the elm, and the country is covered with corn and mulberry trees, which announce the staple- manufac/ure of Pied j mont — its silks, for which it is so much celebrated. Avigliana is a small town with a ruined fortress, Bivoli is a large town, in a most beautiful situa« iion, commanding an extensive plain, ten miles in length. From Rivoli to Turin is a straight road lined on each side with elms, in the midst of a fer- tile plain, watered by a great number of canals cut on purpose to distribute the waters of the Dora., Here commences the rich plain of Lombardy, which extends to Venice and Bologna, For a ue** scription of Turin, see a future page. f Routes leading to Italy . *>® sect, in.— Passage of the Grand St. Bernard* This passage is not difficult in fine weather, but it is terrible in winter; particularly from November to the middle of April. The great quantity of snow which falls on this mountain raises the road SO or 40 feet, and when the accumulated snow be- gins to melt, the greatest dangers are encountered, the avalanches being very frequent in the month of March. In the year 1 800 Bonaparte led his army of reserve over Mont St Bernard, previously to the bat- tle of Marengo. Of this circumstance David painted a fine picture, lately exhibited in London. On what- ever side one looks, these avalanches are seen to fall, with a frightful noise, and to lie in heaps at the foot of the rocks, which sometimes they cover entirely. The gusts of wind also are extremely violent, they lift up the snow, which soon obliterates the road, and buries the unfortunate traveller. But from May till September, the passage of Saint Bernard is free from these dangers. Were it not for the Hospice, or convent on its top, this mountain W'ould be im- passable in winter ; and even with this aid, many persons are lost in the snow, as the bones and corpses in the two chapels witness. From Martigny, where we find the Cretins , to the Hospice or convent, there are about thirty miles of road. From Liddes to Saint Pderre , three miles ; at this place are about sixty mules. This country is remarkable for the deep ravines, lined with rocks, into w'hich the Drance throws itself. The view of this Niagara of the Alps, whose waves are always boiling and foaming, greatly augments the beauty of this scene, which is Passage of the Grand St. Bernard. 39 by some preferred to the fall of the Rhine. But the most astonishing sight is the enormous cavity hol- lowed out by the Drance, under the town of Saint Pierre ; the descent to this spot, though somewhat difficult and sombre, will amply repay the traveller. From Saint Pierre, where there is a Roman military column (Inn of the Cheval Blanc) it is about nine miles to the Hospice; and about three miles from the former place we pass the last larch trees and white partridges, which are found in great numbers. The ascent continues for 2 hours after all vegeta- tion ceases, through a vast desert. We travel en- tirely on snow, which is so hard and compact as to leave scarcely any marks of the horses shoes. A valley next presents itself, w hich may with great propriety be called the valley of stones. We now traverse the valley of la Combe , where the snow somewhat diminishes, and at length arrive at the Hospice, when the neighbouring heights are covered with thick fogs or mists (brouillards) th« Hospice appears to touch the clouds and has a very- striking effect. On the side next Italy is seen the scite of an antient temple of Jupiter, from which several ex votos and other antiques have been dug up. The medals found here have been made into two candlesticks for the service of the church, and a terminal Jupiter, with an altar, was dis- covered, and sent to the Museum at Turin. In this Hospice , in this asylum of hospitality and virtue are deposited the ashes of General Desaix, who fell at the battle of Marengo. On the monument are en- graven the numbers of all the demi brigades of the army of reserve under Bonaparte, who in 1800, from the 15th to the 2Qth of May, effected the me* fnorable passage of St. Bernard. The uncle of Pharlemagne, Bernard, conducted by this route iat© E 2 . . 40 Routes leading to Italy * Italy more than 30,000 men, in the month of May, 755; hence the name of Bernard, instead of that given by the Romans, Mans Jovis. In the war of 1792, some Swiss and Sardinian battalions re- treated from Savoy by this road to Aoste. Napo- leon lodged at Marligny, in the priory of the fa- thers of St, Bernard 1 ; he then slept at Orsieres ; at St. Bernard he took some refreshment, looked over the ton vent, and took up his lodging at Etrou - hies. The Content of Saint Bernard, founded in the year Q6S, is situated 8074 feet above the level of the sea 4 , and is undoubtedly the most elevated habita- tion, not only in Europe, but over all the antient continent. No chalet is to be met with at that height. It touches the boundaries of everlasting snow. In the height of summer, the least breeze makes the cold quite unpleasant. The thermo- meter, in this season, descends almost every evening nearly to the freezing point, and below it if the wind foe northerly. M. de Saussure observed it below Zero on the first of August, at one o’clock p. m. though the sun was continually piercing through the clouds. On the 25th of August 1801, M. Bourrit re- marked that the environs of the convent were co- vered with snow, and that the thermometer was at®. Stiff with eternal ice, and hid in snow. That fell a thousand centuries ago, The mountain stands; nor can the rising sun Unfix her frosts, and teach ’em how to run : t Here reside those few superannuated fathers who are unable to , endure the severity of the winters on the top of the mountain. z This lofty situation is still overlooked by peaks 1500 feet higher. Tassage of the Grand St. Bernard . 41. Deep as the dark infernal waters lie From the bright regions of the cheerful sky. So far the proud ascending rocks invade Heav’n’s upper realms, and cast a dreadful shade; No spring nor summer on the mountain seen Smiles with gay fruits, or with delightful green ; But hoary winter, unadorned and bare. Dwells in the dire retreat, and freezes there; There she assembles all her blackest storms. And the rude hail in rattling tempests forms ; Thither the loud tumultuous winds resort, And on the mountain keep their boisterous court. That in thick showers her rocky summit slirowds, And darkens all the broken view with clouds. Silius ltalicus, B. 3. tians. by Addison „ . The little garden of the monks produces, with the greatest difficulty, by the end of August, a few stunted lettuces and cabbages, a little spinage, and some sorrel ; all the necessaries of life, as bread, wine, flour, cheese, dried fruits, and wood for fuel, are brought at a great expense, from the neighbour- ing valleys. The wood, of which a great quantity is consumed, is carried a distance of 1 2 miles on the backs of mules, by a steep path, which is open for six weeks only in the year. The milch cows > must be supplied with forage : the horses winter at Roche, in the government of Aigle, where the convent has a farm. The ecclesiastics who live in the convent, are from ten to twelve in number, and are cations re- gular of the order of Saint Augustin. Their ac« tive humanity saves many lives every year, and the hospitality with which all strangers are received re- flects the highest honour on the order to which they belong. Every one is treated with the greatest affa- bility, and the poor are supplied gratis with clothing, even to shoes and stockings. The sick find all the relief which medicine and surgery can afford them, and that, without distinction of rank, sex F couatrv, E 3 4$ Routes leading to Italy. or religion. For all this care and trouble, nothing is demanded of the traveller but to inscribe his name in an album, a book kept for the purpose. This, like the other mountain-convents, is sup- ported by an annual collection in the neighbouring parts of France, Switzerland, and Italy, and by the casual offerings of those whom curiosity may attract to this useful establishment. From November to May, a trusty servant, ac- companied by an ecclesiastic, goes every day, half way down the mountain in search of travellers. They have with them one or two large dogs, trained for the purpose, which will scent a man at a great distance, and find out the road, in the thickest fogs, storms, and heaviest falls of snow. Suspended from their necks are little baskets with meat and drink to refresh the wearied traveller. These dogs are of a dusky fawn colour, mixed with white spots ; they never offer to bite sti angers, and seldom bark. The fathers themselves also perform this work of humanity. Often are they seen anxiously looking out, from the highest summits of the rocks, for the storm-beaten traveller. They show him the way, lead him along, holding him up when unable to stand alone ; sometimes even they carry him on their shoulders to the convent. Often are they obliged to use violence to the traveller, when, benumbed with cold, and exhausted with fatigue, he earnestly begs that they will allow’ him just to rest, or to sleep for a few moments only on the snow. It is neces- sary to shake him well, and to drag him by force from insidious sleep, the fatal forerunner of death. Nothing but constant motion can give the body suf- jicent zcarmlh to resist extreme cold. When the fathers are compelled to be out in the open air ia severe frosts, and the depth of the snow prevents Passage of the Grand St. Bernard. 43 their walking fast enough to keep the blood in circu- lation, they strike from time to time their hands and feet against the great staffs shod with iron, which they always carry with them, otherwise their extre- mities would become torpid and frost-bitten. Scarcely a winter passes, however, that some tra- veller or other does not perish, or have his limbs bitten by the frost. In all these cases the use of spirits, strong waters, or sudden warmth, are highly pernicious— rubbing the body with snow, or im- mersing the limbs in ice, is the only certain re- medy. An Englishman, of the name of Woodley, who accompanied M. Bourrit, in his ascent to Mont Blanc, was compelled to keep his feet in ice and salt for thirteen days ; another companion lost his sight for three weeks, and a third suffered a long time from having his hand frost-bitten. When the snow has covered any one to a great depth, the fathers take long poles, and sounding in different places, discover by the resistance which the end of the pole meets with, whether it be a rock only or a human body. In the latter case, they soon disengage it from the snow, and have often the glow- ing, heart-felt satisfaction of restoring to 00Q feet above the level of the sea. St. Charles of Bor- romeo first erected this building in the year lG 13, but the Capuchins were not established in it till 1684. The apartments, the beds, were excellent, and the table was plentifully supplied w ith viands Passage of Mont St, Gothard . 49 [n bad weather, the domestics^ followed by their togs (trained like those of St. Bernard) went in search of the weary and wandering traveller; and svery evening, at night-fall, the chapel bell was rung, ,o direct them to the scite of the convent. But, das ! the revolution spared not this temple of hospi- :ality. In 1800, the Commune of Airolo erected a sorry but, large enough to shelter three persons, to serve as a sort of douane, or custom-house, for the exa- mination of the little merchandize which still passed into Italy. The return of peace, however, we trust, will soon re-establish that life-saving institu- tion, the antient convent of Capuchins, with all its attendant comforts ; and which, like a pool of water in the burning deserts of Arabia, contributes so essentially to recruit the spirits of the drooping tra- veller. The summit of Saint Gothard, like that of all these mountains, is a little plain, the view from which is bounded by the tops of elevated rocks. The highest point or peak is the Galenstoek , nearly 12,000 feet above the sea. On the second day we arrive at the Gross Zollhaus , an excellent inn, and thence proceed to Faido , where there is a very good auberge kept by Scolaro; and, on the third day, reach Bellinzona. The whole of the route is embellished by the sino , which runs almost continually by the side of the traveller, sometimes roaring at the bottom of its profound bed, and at at others, falling from rock to rock, and over the fragments of antient avalanches : the aspect of these majestic mountains is infinitely varied : forests of fir, pasture, pretty villages placed here and there on the heights, woods of chesnuU, poplars, and walnut-trees; hills covered with vines, fig* 50 Routes leading to Italy . trees, and all the other productions, which flourish in this highly favoured climate. Arriving at Airolo (a good inn kept by Camozzi) we pass the bridge of Tremola, where there is a fine view of a verdant valley, covered with houses. From Beliinzona, the traveller may continue his route to Milan by Como, or visit the Borromean Isles on the Lago Maggiore. Mont St. Gothard comprises 12 Alpine valleys, from 28 to 30 lakes, eight glaciers, and the sources of four grand rivers. The sources of the river Tesino, which runs into the Po, and of the Reuss, which runs into the Rhine, are within two miles of each other. The source of the Rhine is within a day’s journey, and that of the Rhone is about nine miles distant. The best guide to this route, is the Itineraire de St. Gothard , published by Chr. de Mechel , at Basle, with a good map of the mountains. See also the Voyage Pittoresque de la Suisse Italienne , par M. Meyer, with views, published at Zurich ; and Bourrit’s Itineraire de Geneve . The English reader may con- sult Coxes Switzerland , and other tours in that country. THE PASSAGE OF THE MOUNTAIN OF ST. GOTHARD By Georgiana , Duchess of Devonshire a . TO HER CHILDREN. Ye plains, where three-fold harvests press the ground. Ye climes, where genial gales incessant swell. Where art and nature shed profusely round Their rival wonders — Italy, farewell. * The reader will recollect that this passage is the reverse o the description just given, being made from Italy to Switzerland. Passage of Mont St. Gothard • 51 Still maj? thy year in fullest splendour shine I Its icy darts in vain may winter throw l To thee, a parent, sister *, I consign. And winged with health, I woo thy gales to blow, Yet pleased Helvetia’s rugged brows I see. And through their craggy steeps delighted roam; Pleased with a people, honest, brave, and free. While every step conducts me nearer home, 1 wander where Tesino madly flows. From cliff to cliff in foaming eddies tost ; On the rude mountain’s barren breast he rose, In Po's broad wave now hurries to be lost* His shores, neat huts and verdant pastures fill, . And hills, where woods of pine the storm defy j While, scorning vegetation, higher still. Rise the bare rocks coeval with the sky» Upon his banks a favoured spot I found, Where shade and beauty tempted to repose; Within a grove, by mountains circled round. By rocks o’erliung, my rustic seat I chose. Advancing thence, by gentle pace and slow. Unconscious of the way my footsteps prest. Sudden, supported by the hills below, St. Gothard’s summits rose above the rest. J Midst tow’ring cliffs and tracts of endless cold, Th’ industrious path pervades the rugged stone. And seems— Helvetia, let thy toils be told— • A granite girdle o’er the mountain throwu No haunt of man the weary traveller greets, No. vegetation smiles upon the moor. Save where the flow’ret breathes uncultured sweets, Save where the patient monk receives the poor. * The Duchess left Lady Spencer and Lady Besborough at the Baths of Lucca, intending to pass the winter at Naples, 2 Mr. Coxe’s editor (Mr. Raymond) calls it a granite riband thrown ove«* the mountain. This wonderful work is a road of nearly 15 feet in breadth, paved with granite, and executed even through the most difficult part of the mountain ; sometimes suspended on the edge of a precipice ; sometimes pierced through rocks, where no other passage offered ; sometimes forming bold and light bridges, from rests to reek. 52 Routes leading to Italy, Yet let not these rude paths be coldly traced. Let not these wilds with listless steps be trod. Here Fragrance scorns not to perfume the waste* Here Charity uplifts the mind to God. His humble board the holy man prepares. And simple food and wholesome lore bestows, Extols the treasures that his mountain hears. And paints the perils of impending snows. For while bleak Winter numbs with chilling hand-* Where frequent crosses mark the traveller’s fate— » In slow procession moves the merchant band, And silent bends, where tottering ruins wait. Yet ’midst those ridges, ’midst that drifted snow. Can Nature deign her wonders to display ; Here Adularia shines with vivid glow x . And gems of crystal sparkle to the day. Here, too, the hoary mountain’s brow to grace. Five silver lakes in tranquil state are seen ; While from their waters many a stream we trace. That, ’scaped from bondage, rolls the rocks between. Hence flows the Reuss to seek her wedded love. And, with the Rhine, Germanic climes explore ; Her stream I marked, and saw her wildly move, Down the bleak mountain, through her craggy shore.' My weary footsteps hoped for rest in vain, For steep on steep, in rude confusion rose 5 At iength I paused above a fertile plain That promised shelter and foretold repose. Fair runs the streamlet o’er the pasture green. Its margin gay, with flocks and cattle spread ; Embow’iing trees the peaceful village screen, And guard from snow each dwelling’s jutting shed. Sweet vale, whose bosom wastes and cliffs surround. Let me awhile thy friendly shelter share ! Emblem of life, where some bright hours are found Amid the darkest, dreariest years of care. * No mountain is more rich in its mineral productions, at least with regard to beauty. The Adularia is a beautiful variety of the Feldt Spar, and is thus called after the ancient name of the moun- tain. The crystals of St. Gothard are much celebrated ; in it is also found the blue Shoerl or Sappar, and also a marble which has the singular quality of bending and being phosphoric ; it is sailed Dolomite, from the name of its discoverer, Dolomieu. 5 $ Passage of Mont St . Gothard • J)elved through the rock, the secret passage bends ; And beauteous horror strikes the dazzled sight j: Beneath the pendent bridge the stream descends Calm— till it tumbles o’er the frowning height. We view the fearful pass— we wind along The path that marks the terrors of our way— *IVIidst beetling rocks, and hanging woods among, The torrent pours, and breathes its glittering spray. Weary, at length serener scenes we hail— More cultured groves o’ershade the grassy meads? The neat, though wooden hamlets, deck the vale fl And Altorf' s spires recal heroic deeds. But though no more amid those scenes I roam 9 My fancy long each image shall retain — • The flock returning to its welcome home — • And the wild carol of the cowherd’s strain 8 « Lucernia's lake 2, its glassy surface shows, While Nature’s varied beauties deck its side ; Here rocks and woods its narrow waves inclose* And there its spreading bosom opens wide. And hail the chapel ! hail the platform wild ! Where Tell 3 directed the avenging dart. With well-strung arm, that first preserved his child ? Then winged the arrow to the tyrant’s heart* * The circumstance alluded to pleased me very much, though I saw it not at St. Gothard, but in the mountains of Bern. At evening a flock of goats returned to the market-place of the little town of Interlacken : immediately each goat went to its peculiar cottage, the children of which came out to welcome and caress their little comrade. The Rans des Vaches, sung by the Swiss cow- herds, is a simple melody, intermixed with the cry which they use to call their cows together. 2 The Lake of Lucerne is also called the Lake of the four Can- tons, and is as diversified and beautiful as any in Switzerland. Embarking below Altorf, the first part of die navigation is nar- row but romantic, bounded by the rocky shores of Uri and Under* wald ; after passing through the narrowest part, a large expanse presents itself, bounded to the right by Switz, to the left by Un* derwald, and having Lucerne and the distant mountains in front. 3 The Emperor Albert, having the ambitious design of conquer-, ing Switzerland in order to make a patrimony of it for one 6f his younger sons, had by degrees succeeded i\i subduing the greater part ; and, under false pretences, had sent arbitrary haillies and governors, who exercised much cruelty and oppression upon the F 3 54 Routes leading to Italy . Across the lake, and deep embowered in wood, Behold another hallowed chapel stand. Where three Swiss heroes lawless force withstood, And stamped the freedom of their native land *. Their liberty required no rites uncouth, No blood demanded, and no slaves enchained ; Her rule was gentle, and her voice was truth, By social order formed, by laws restrained. people. The worst of these was Geissler, a rapacious and fero» cious man, whose castle in Uri was a continued scene of barbarity j and plunder. Discontents had already taken place, and the people I not only murmured, but had meetings on every fresh insult 5 when ; in the year 1307, Geissler, to prove his power and indulge his j vanity, erected his hat on a pole in the market-place of Altorf, and ; insisted on the people bowing to it as they passed. William Tell ; refused. The tyrant, to revenge himself, ordered Tell’s youngest j son to be brought to the market-place, and, tying him to a stake, placed an apple upon his head, and desired the father to shoot at it with his cross-bow. William Tell succeeded in hitting the apple ; butlwhen the tyrant asked him the reason of his having another arrow concealed in his dress, he replied, To have hilled you, had I killed my son. The offended governor had Tell seized and ; bound, and placed in the same boat with himself, resolving , to carry him across the lake to his own castle. A frightful storm (to which the Swiss lakes are liable) suddenly arose, and they were obliged to unchain the prisoner, who was celebrated for his I skill as a mariner. He conducted them near a ridge of rocks, and vaulting from the boat, with his cross-bow in his hand, killed the tyrant 1 To this Tell and Switzerland owed their deliverance, ! The chapel is built on the very spot, surrounded with picturesque wood : and the simple story of Tell, in the appropriate dresses, is painted within the chapel. 1 Opposite to Tell’s chapel, in the woody and high shore of the opposite part of Uri, another little chapel just peeps from the 1 surrounding grove. It was here, to avoid discovery, that the friends of liberty mel, before the adventure of Tell, and the death of Giessler facilitated their endeavours. The chiefs of them were i three : Henry de Melchtal, whose father, an old peasant of Un- derwald, when ploughing his field, was insulted by the emissaries of Geissler, who told him, that a wretch like him ought not to j use oxen, but to be yoked himself. The son defended his father ; and the oxen, and was obliged to fly to secure his own life. They seized the helpless old man, and, as he refused to discover the retreat of his son, put out his eyes. Young Henry fled to Uri, to the house of a gentleman of the name of Walter Furst. Vernier _de Staubach, a gentleman of the canton of Switz, joined in their meetings at the chapel ; he also had been insulted by the tvrr-rt. Passage of Mont St . Gothard « 5& We quit the lake — and cultivation’s toil. With Nature’s charms combined, adorns the way} And well-earned wealth improves the ready soil. And simple manners still maintain their sway *, Farewell, Helvetia! from whose lofty breast Proud Alps arise, and copious rivers flow ; Where, source of streams, eternal glaciers rest 4 . And peaceful science gilds the plains below. Oft on thy rocks the wond’ring eye shall gaze. Thy vallies oft the raptured bosom seek — There, Nature’s hand her boldest work displays. Here, bliss domestic beams on ev’ry cheek. Hope of my life ! dear children of my heart ! That anxious heart, to each fond feeling true. To you still pants each pleasure to impart. And more — oh transport '.—reach its home aird you. By the steady and uniform exertions of these men, and the three cantons, they at length took prisoners all the Emperor’s officers, but with this remarkable instance of humanity, that they banished them, without any injury to their persons or possessions. The famous victory of Mongarten in 1315, where a small number of Swiss, from the advantage of their mountains, defeated the Imperial army under Leopold, son to Albert, established their liberty. The three cantons formed excellent laws, and promised friendship and assistance to each other ; and by degrees, though at different pe- riods, the thirteen cantons joined in Ligue Suisse. 1 The domestic society and simple gaiety of most parts of Switzerland exist in spite of the inroads of strangers; indeed it seems impossible not to seek rather to join in their happy amuse- ments, than to wish to introduce the dissipation of other countries among them 1 The glaciers are formed probably by such an accumulation of ice, that the summer’s sun only melts what is sufficient to sup- ply the rivers, without diminishing the original stores which are there congealed. This, however, varies their forms, which are sometimes very beautiful, in waves, arches, pinnacles, &,c. and the light of the sun gives them prismatic colours. I saw the glacier of Grindelwald in August, and I might have touched the ice with one hand, and with the other gathered strawberries that grew at its foot. £§ Montes leading to Italy* sect, v.* — Route to Genoa , by Province* [Including Lyons, Avignon, Nismes, Aix, Marseilles, Toulon s Anlibes, and Nice.] Those who prefer a rich and fertile country, pic- turesque views, and a lovely climate, to the terrible sublimity of nature, as displayed in some of her earliest works, the Alps, with their eternal snows, storm-beaten rocks, and vast glaciers, — or who visit Italy in the winter months, will have their wishes fully gratified by making a tour through the luxuriant country of Provence. From Lyons, which we have already described at p. 25, the traveller may go to Avignon , by land or water. If he take the former route, he will pass through the celebrated towns of Vienne , Valence , and Orangey situated on the banks of the Rhone. He may choose the post aux dues, orchevaux ; asses being frequently used in posting, from Lyons to Marseilles. The passage by water to Avignon is often made in two days or less, with a fair wind. Half the vessel is filled with merchandize and pack- ages, and in the other part there is a cabin, which will contain about thirty people; it is impel- led by the current and the wind. The bateau stops at dusk at some town on the banks, and starts again the next morning before it is light. The Rhone is a noble river, and its banks are lofty, covered with vineyards, and now and then the ruins of a castle, a church, or a village, contribute to relieve the sameness of its swelling hills. The longest bridge in Europe, that of Pont St. Esprit, crosses the Rhone at the vil- lage of that name. This passage is very agreeable, and affords much bold and magnificent scenery, yet, when the wind is contrary, and the time is extended to four days (as was the author’s case last summer) the whole becomes tedious, and loses much of its natural interest. The Dart, in Devonshire, is a Avignon — Vaucluse • 57 miniature of some parts of the Rhone, which is on too large a scale to constitute the picturesque, yet, this is again only a miniature of the Rhine. The Wye, in Monmouthshire, is infinitely more picturesque ; its numerous windings, its overhanging woods, its pure and limpid stream, have in them something of en- chantment ; though this is only a rivulet, compared with the Rhone. The character of the two rivers is so entirely different, indeed, that we cannot fairly institute a comparison between them — one is, gene- rally speaking, grand — the other picturesque. At Avignon, once the seat of papal splendour, there are many objects to attract our notice, but as these are fully described in its local guide we shall not speak of them here. The best inn (close to the theatre) is kept by the Widow Piron, and is nearly opposite the Palais Royal. The travel- ler will not forget to visit the scite of Laura’s tomb, distinguished only by a mournful cypress, amid the ruins of the celebrated church of the Cordeliers, now inclosed in the grounds of a gardener. The proprietors name is M. Centers (Oct. 1814); a very convenient house, together with the grounds and ruins of the Cordeliers, are to be disposed of; whoever the purchaser may be, we fervently hope that he will place a simple marble slab over the tomb of Petrarch’s mistress, and inscribe upon it the name of Laura! The fountain of Vaucluse also, a morning’s ride from Avignon, will claim the notice of every one who has heard the name of Petrarch. Here, in a little cottage near the river and the village, dwelt Petrarch. He eat the brown bread of his old fisherman ; figs, raisins, nuts, and almonds, were his delicacies ; and he took much pleasure in seeing the fish caught, with which the translucent stream still abounds. 58 Routes leading to Italy* Chiare, fresche, e dole! acque, Qve le belle membra Pose colei, che sola a me per donna j Gentil raiao ove piacque (Con sospir mi rimembra) A lei di fare ai bel fianco colonna. The ruins of a building, placed on the top of the rock, shown as the residence of Petrarch, are part of a castle which once belonged to the Bishop of Cavaillon, a charming village in the neighbourhood ©f Vaucluse*. Another pleasant excursion may be made to Car - pentras , where the remains of an old triumphal arch, the very beautiful modern aqueduct, (erected in the midst of the most enchanting scenery) its splendid hospital and public library are worthy of notice. Besides many rare and valuable books, the library possesses a collection of Roman Medals 6000 in number, many of them very curious, and a series of original drawings. Among the MSS. are the two folio volumes of the genuine Troubadour poems. Petrarch came to settle at Carpentras in the year 1314, and three years afterwards Clement IV. visited this place, with a great number of Car- dinals. But when this train had left it, Petrarch gave himself up to study, and learned in five years as much grammar, rhetoric, and logic, as can be taught in schools to those of his age. While a school-boy at Carpentras, Petrarch went with his father and mother to see the fountain of Vaucluse. Enraptured with the charms of this solitude, he cried out ; “ Here is a situation which suits me mar- vellously ! were I master of this place, I should prefer it to the finest cities.” These lively impres- 4 See Mrs. Dobson’s Life of Petrarch, vol. I. p. 109—122, for an interesting description of Vaucluse, and the poet’s mode of life. Carpentras — Nismes, 59 \ sions determined the subsequent residence of Pe- trarch at this place, were afterwards transfused through many of his works, and have immortalized the beauties of Vaucluse. The Hotel da Midi , kept by M. St. Ange , is one of the most agreeable in this part of the coun- j try; and is remarkable for civil treatment and mode- i rate charges. The author can never forget the po- lite and kind attentions which he received at this inn, after a fatiguing ride from Vaucluse in a petite voiture, non suspendue . i Nismes , though not in the direct road to Aix, will doubtless claim the notice of the antiquary and man of taste, on account of its noble Amphitheatre P Maison Carree , and the celebrated aqueduct of the Pont du Garde , situated to the north of the town. From this place Montpellier may be visited ; Aix, Marseilles, and Toulon *, are rich in sources of amusement and instruction. Indeed, the whole country of Provence may be styled the Eden of France, if not of Europe. From Toulon, a trip to Hyeres, and its islands, will afford many new and interesting scenes. The climate of Hyeres is delicious, and infinitely more favourable to con- sumptive habits (from November to April) than any other part of Languedoc or Provence, the whole of which is subject, more or less, to the mistrou, vent jde bize, or N. W. wind, and to a considerable portion of severe weather. The snow is frequently three or four feet deep at Montpellier. Although the mistrou, may be considered as th e flaming sword, which for- bids the invalid from venturing into this Southern Paradise, yet it is not found at every corner. There are many pretty towns greatly protected from this 1 Of Toulon and Marseilles, see Fischer's account n Conte©* joray Voyages, Vol. V. It is the best and most ret eat. 60 Routes leading to Italy . wind between Avignon and Marseilles; and if the winter be spent at Hyeres or Nice, and the summer, and part of the autumn, at Montpellier, or almost any other place, the effects of wind and cold will be avoided altogether *. The town of Hyeres lies in a delightful vale, and is almost entirely sheltered from the mistrou . From the eminence on which the town is built, a gradual slope extends nearly three miles to the sea, and all this space is one luxuriant wood of orange- trees. The vale is nearly circular, and the surround- ing mountains are partly covered with fertile planta- tions of fruit-trees, evergreen-oaks, &c. Provi- sions are here of the best kind. The water is pure and light ; the bread line, and of a good flavour ; there is an abundance of fish, venison and poultry, and the mutton is particularly excellent. The straw- berries, oranges, and pomegranates, as also the ve- getables, particularly artichokes, are remarkably line. Cow’s milk and butter also may be easily pro- cured. Wine, or whatever else a stranger may want, is easily procured from Toulon, to which a conveyance goes daily. The walks, both in the vale and round the mountains, are various and pic- turesque, abounding in romantic spots, in extensive and grand prospects of land and sea, depicted in the most brilliant colours. The Hotel des Ambassa - deurs is the best inn. Lodgings in the suburbs are greatly to be preferred to the town, which is rather dark and dirty. The population is about '5000. There are commonly two or three English families 1 The best and fullest account of Avignon, Aix, Arles, Nismes and Montpellier, and their comparative claims to the notice o valetudinarians, will be found in Fischer's Letters, written during i journey to Montpellier, translated in the third volume of Model?! and Contemporary Voyages. See also Miss Plumtree’s Residence ii ! France. Description of Hyeres, 6 1 who winter in the environs of Hyeres, for the sake of the climate. There cannot be a more delightful retirement for those who stand in need of repose^ and a mild salubrious air. JA, jamais les plus grand hivers JNI’ont pu leur declarer la guerre : Cet heureux cain de i' Univtrs Les a toujours beaux, toujours verds, Toujours fleuEis en pleine tcrre. The chief exports from Hyeres, are oil, wine, fruit, vegetables, and flowers, which are sent almost exclusively to Marseilles and Toulon, it has also some salt works. Oranges aloue are so productive, that two guineas will purchase a thousand. The Hyeresians are distinguised for refinement and gen- tleness of manners ; they understand the manage- ment of the sick, even to the most trifling minutiae , but much as they depend upon strangers, they always regard them as sacred. The three islands of Hyeres, called Porquerolles, Portieros, and du Levant, which are seen from the town, will offer much amusement and information, particularly to the bo- tanist 1 , agriculturist, and mineralogist. Fora fur- ther description of Hyeres, we refer to Fischer’s Travels ; they have been translated from the Germany in the 5th volume of the Contemporary Voyages and Travels. There being no direct ro£d between Hyeres and I\ ice, the traveller must return to Toulon, and afterwards pursue his route from Frejus. Be- tween Toulon and Frejus a new feature in the landscape presents itself. The great American aloe 1 They produce a number of rare plants; among others, the marum ( Teucrium 7iiarumj the most powerful of all the Ltyropeaxa aromatic*. Q 62 Routes leading to Italy. (agave Americana ) growing in immense tufts on the rocks, as die house-leek does with us. Frejus, remarkable for the abundance of its fruits, the feitility of its soil, and the insalubrity of its climate, possesses some remains of Roman grandeur ; the ruins of an arch, an aqueduct, a temple, and an amphi- theatre. On the walls of the last is found in abun- dance the lichen roccella (orehall) so valuable for dying red and purple. Amethysts, crystals, and the red and white jasper, are seen in its neighbourhood. It is equally celebrated in modem times, for being the place from which, in 1814, that sport of for- tune, Napoleon Bonaparte embarked to take possession of his new dominions in Elba : near this spot also, in 1815, he landed on his return to France. If the traveller have any curiosity to visit Elba, Frejus is the best port from whence to embark, and having made the tour of the island, he may take ship for Piomhino , on the coast of Italy. In the year 1799> also Frejus was the port at which General Bonaparte entered France, after his signal discomfiture in Egypt, and escaping many dangers in his passage. 'The commerce of Frejus consists in cork, leather, soap, canes, and reeds. There are also some extensive potteries and distille- ries, and the anchovy fishery in the gulph is very productive. Population, 2,200, Frejus gave birth to Julius Agricola, whose virtue and modera- tion are justly eulogized by his friend and relation, Tacitus. Nothing can be more varied or picturesque than the passage across the mountains to Antibes ; the road is every where lined with jessamines, myrtles, arbutuses, and the most curious plants. The moun- tains and forest of the Esterelle, are highly interest* Frejus— Antihen. 6S ing. Between Frejus and Cannes is the erica arbo - rea , often growing to the height of 10 feet, and much resembling, in form and size, the trees on Box- hill. Cannes , though fertile, is yet more unhealthy than Frejus. Oranges are here cultivated jar the sake of the flowers, which are sold to the perfumers at Grasse and Nice, in great quantities. This coast is almost wholly covered with a very curious ma« rine production, zostera marina , which grows in great abundance every where along the shores of the Mediterranean. Eaten with salt, it affords an ex- cellent sallad. From Cannes may be visited the Isle of Margue - rite, whence the traveller may embark for Antibes , if he prefer a short excursion by water. The fort at Marguerite, which answers the purpose of a state prison, has been celebrated in history, from the man in the iron mask having been some time confined within its walls : the chamber in which he lived has only one casement, guarded with strong bars, and is still shown. Marguerite may be visited also from Antibes. Antibes , called Antiboul, by the Provencals from Antipolis, is a small and ill-built city, but iis port has a very elegant appearance ; it recalls to our re- collection that of Ostia, the figure of which has been preserved on the medals of Nero, which was surrounded by porticoes. It is of a round form, provided with a quay, and a range of circular ar- cades. An extensive prospect may be had from the rampart. This city had formerly two aqueducts; that which brought the waters of Biot still exists. The heights above Antibes afford a most magnificent prospect. The eye wanders over the city, the port, the fortifications, constructed by Vauban, the gulph, and the coast, which is prolonged in the form of a semicircle ; we perceive hills, covered with houses, G g 64 Routes leading to Italy . in the midst of which stands the city of Nice ; and in the back-ground rise the vast mountains of the Maritime Alps, capped with snow, during great part of the year. The fish caught on the shores of Antibes is highly esteemed. The Sardinias (clupea sprattus L.) are reckoned delicious. This fish, which takes its name from the island of Sardinia, is eaten, either fresh, smoaked, dried, or preserved, in the manner of anchovies. There is also found on this coast the red mullet ( mullus ruber Lacep.) so highly valued by the Romans, that they bartered for them their weight in gold, as well as another species of mullet, for which the Greek and Roman epicures displayed an equal avidity. These fishes are sometimes taken in the ocean, but they are neither so abundant nor so delicate as those in the Mediterranean, and espe- cially on the coast of Provence, which also teems with a great variety of other excellent fish. There are some charming rides along the beach at Antibes, which is smooth and firm. The corn is in ear before the end of April : the cherries are al- most ripe at this time, and the figs begin to blacken. Population, 4200. From Antibes we may embark for Genoa, or Leghorn ; or continue our route by land to Turin. As most persons, however, visit Nice, we shall first describe that place, and somewhat at length, because it is still the favourite winter resort of inva- lids, particularly from England. On leaving Antibes, the road continues along the coast ; on the left are Biot, les Mausettes, and Villeneuve, till we arrive at Cagnes. Many rivers are passed, and at St. Laurent-du-bar, we cross the Var y over a long wooden bridge : this river may be forded, but the current is sometimes so rapid as to endanger the safety of carriages and horses. Description of Nice . 65 The climate of Nice is particularly favourable to valetudinarians during the winter , which is in general remarkably mild. The spring is subject to piercing winds, and the autumn is usually wet ; the summer is hot, but not insupportably so. Ver- dure prevails even at this season ; the trees are loaded with flowers and fruit, and butterflies are every where seen fluttering. The highways even, in some parts, are bordered with a hedge of American aloes ( agave Americana ). If frost sometimes oc- curs, which only happens during the coldest days, it is but slight, and is soon dissipated by the influ- ence of the sun. No climate possesses a more ge- nial atmosphere, no soil a more smiling vegetation. The blossoms of the orange, the vine, and the lau- rel-rose, the infinite variety of flowers, plants, and shrubs, at all seasons of the year, lead us to ex* claim— V ERTUMNE, POMONE, et Z«PIIYRE, Avec Flore y regncnt toujours j C’est l’asyle de leurs amours, Et le trone de leur empire. Such a temperature as this, has powerful attractions for the natives of northern regions — a sky ever clear, serene, and bespangled during the night with innu- merable stars, is peculiarly welcome to the Russian, the German, and the Englishman. From the time of Smollett, who first made known to our country- men, the mildness of this delightful climate, it be- came the fashion to resort to Nice during the win- ter. But this hybernation was put an end to by the Revolution, and by the long and tedious wars which succeeded it. Nice is situated in a small plain, bounded on the west by the river Var, which divides it from Provence ; on the south by the Mediterranean sea, g 3 55 Routes leading to Italy. which comes up to the walls ; on the north by the Maritime .Alps, rising by degrees into lofty moun- tains, forming an amphitheatre, and ending at Mon- taibano, which projects into the sea, and overhangs the town to the east. The river Paglion, which is supplied by the rains or melting of the snows, washes the walls of the city, and falls iuto the sea on the west. Nice is about a mile and a half in length, and a mile in breadth ; yet it is said to con- tain 20,000 inhabitants. The antient splendour of Nice has suffered much from its various sieges, and particularly from the Revolution. Nice has two squares', a university, hospital, botanical garden, theatre and public library. There is also a hand- some terrace near the sea. House rent is dear in Nice, particularly in the Croix de Marbre , the usual resort of the English. A tolerable house in the suburbs, furnished, and large enough to hold twelve or fifteen persons, could not be hired, for five or six months, for less than 1501. with these, are delightful gardens, abound- ing in orange, lemon, almond, and peach-trees : but the oranges never belong to the person who hii es the house. Provisions have increased greatly in price, particularly butcher’s meat, since the Re- volution. In the year 1790 and 1791* meat was sold for three-halfpence and two- pence a pound of 12 ounces: and a hare, fowl, or brace of par- tridges, cost fifteen-pence. The prices now fluc- tuate, according to the number of strangers in the town. Woodcocks are abundant and extremely de- licious. There are also red-legged partridges, the moor-cock, pheasant, and hare. The stag and roebuck are sometimes met with. Pigeons are dear, rabbits rare, and geese scarcely to be seen. All winter they have green peas, asparagus, artichokes, cauliflowers, beans, kidney beans, endive, cabbage. Description of Nice . 67 radishes, lettuce, &c. &c : potatoes from the mountains, mushrooms, and the finest truffles in the world. The winter fruits are olives, oranges, le- mons, citrons ’, dried figs, grapes, apples, pears, almonds, chesnuts, walnuts, filberts, medlars, pome- granates, azarole, and the berries of the laurel. There are caper-bushes wild in the neighbourhood, and some palm-trees, but the dates do not ripen well, probably from want of impregnation. In May there are wood strawberries, in the beginning of June cherries, and these are succeeded by apri- cots and peaches. The grapes are large and lus- cious. Musk-lemons are very cheap, and they have water-melons from Antibes and Sardinia. Wine is very good and cheap : both red and white may be had of the peasants, genuine, for four- pence a quart, when taken in quantity. The wine of Tavelle, in Languedoc, very nearly as good as burgundy, may be had for eight-pence a bottle. The sweet wine of St. Laurent about a shilling, and pretty good Malaga for half the money. Wood for firing is about eight-pence a quintal, consisting of one hundred and fifty Nice pounds. There is an endless variety of insects distributed over the plains and mountains of Nice; these are rather troublesome, even in winter, but the species met with on a walk on the mountains, afford to the naturalist a never failing source of amusement. The tarantula is found not only at Nice, but in some other places of Provence : it is now well knowm that the terrible effects attributed to this animal, are al- together imaginary. The Nissarch are in general mild, humane, peace- able, and complaisant. They are gay, lively, and * A thousand of either citrons or lemons may be had for z guinea. 68 Routes leading to Italy . pleasant in company ; in a word, their manners, upon the whole, are interesting, and congenial with the mildness of their climate. The men are well made, but thin ; the women are not remarkable for their beauty. Balls are frequent in the winter, but the Carnival, which is scrupulously observed here, is the gayest time of the year. Scenes of festive mirth are very general among the better classes of society, and prove a source of pleasure and entertainment to the stranger. The diversions of all classes consist chiefly in dancing, singing, and music. The language of N ice, and that part of the de- partment contiguous to the Var, is the dialect of Provence , mixed with a number of words derived from the Italian. I bis patois is not unintelligible to the inhabitants of Marseilles, though that of Mo- naco, only twelve miles from Nice, is entirely so. Of the Provencal language in use at Marseilles, and almost throughout Provence, the reader may not be displeased to see a specimen. It is the Lord’s Prayer ; « Nouastre Paire que sias oou ciele, que vouastre noum siegue sanctilicat; que vouastre rouyaoum& nous arribe. Que vouastre voulounta sieugue facho su la term, coumo din lou ciele. Pounas- nou encui nouastre pan de cade jou. Pardounasnou nouastre'i ©oufensos coumo lei pardounau a n’aquelei'que nous anooufensas. E nou lei'ssez pa sucoumba a la tentatien : mai delivra nou doou ruaou. En sin sie *.’* The environs of Nice are truly enchanting. The irregularity of seasons so detrimental to vegetation in other parts of the world, is here exchanged for a progress so uniform and imperceptible, that the tenderest plant appears to feel the change, and ac- * See Mrs. Dobson’s History of the Troubadours, or the original work in French of M. de St. Palaye. The first volume of Sismondi’s Eiterary History of the South oi' Europe, contains an interesting sketch of Provencal poetry, with numerous specimens. From Antibes to Genoa by Sea , 69 quire new vigour by it. Every day brings forth another flower, every month its fruits, and every year a copious harvest. The light tinges of the spring yield to the brighter hues of summer ; and autumn boasts of the deep crimson and the orange. Unexposed to the bleak influence of the north, the pendent grape soon comes to full maturity ; the al- mond and the peach already tempt the taste ; the citron and the orange promise an ample recompence for the toil of the husbandman. In the language of Lady Mary Montague, it may be said : m Here summer reigns with one eternal smile ; Succeeding harvests bless the happy soil. Fair fertile fields, to whom indulgent heaven Has every charm of every season given. No killing cold deforms the beauteous year. The springing flowers no coming winter fear; But as the parent rose decays and dies, The infant buds with brighter colours rise, And with fresh sweets, the mother’s scent supplies V No. 7* From Antibes, or Nice, to Genoa. [By Sea.] At either of the above places (or at Marseilles) the traveller may hire a felucca for Genoa or Leg- horn. This is an open boat with a padrone or mas- ter, and from eight to twelve rowers, who, partly by sailing, and partly by rowing, will reach Genoa in two days, if the sea be calm, otherwise they dare not stir ; nor indeed is a felucca built for a heavy sea. The hire of this vessel will be about five gui- neas. The first resting-place, is Monaco, a small town, containing about eleven hundred persons ; it is i built on a rock which projects into the sea, and has * To those who mean to reside at Nice during the winter, we re- commend the purchase of Dr. Davis’s Account of Nice, (to which we are indebted.) Millin’s Travels in the South of France, wiii be useful to the tourist. They have been abridged and translated in the 7th volume of Contemporary Voyages. See also Piiikney’s Travels, 8vo, 70 Routes leading to Italy • a very picturesque appearance. This ci-devant prin- cipality consists of three small towns, and an incon- siderable tract of barren rock. The precipices be- low the town, like the whole of this craggy coast, are covered with the Indian fig, whose stem is four feet in height. The fruit is delicious. We pass Ventimiglia , and several other places of less conse- quence, and come to S. Remo, a considerable town on the declivity of a gently rising hill, with a harbour for small vessels. The hills are covered with oranges, lemons, pomegranates, olives, and plantations of palm, which do not thrive in any other part of Italy. The summit of the hill of Saint Remo is crowned with a chapel, surrounded by tall cypresses and olive groves. The population is 9,000. Port Maui ice has a large commerce in fine olive-oil, cloth, soap, candles, and vermicelli. Population 6,000. Oneglia is a small town, with some fortifications: the territory abounds with olive-trees, and produces the best od of the whole Riviera. Alhenga is the next small town ; and the country produces a great quantity of hemp. Finale once the capital of a snarquisate belonging to the Genoese is a pretty well built town, but the harbour is shallow, open, and unsafe ; the country abounds with oil and fruit, par- ticularly with excellent apples, called pomi carli . Noli w as once a small republic of fishermen subject to Genoa, but tenacious of their privileges : the town is tolerably well built, defended by a castle, and the harbour is of little consequence. It is the residence of a bishop. Savona is a large town, is the seat of a bishop- rick, ard has a good port. It has manufactures of porcelain, earthen -ware, anchors, soap, cards, wool- len-stockings, vitriol, cottons, paper, lace, sails, and cordage. Here are also glass-houses, forges, and a yard for ship-building. The environs of the tow n are From Antibes to Genoa . well cultivated, and produce fiuits of eve y kind; the lemons and bergamots come to great | e lection. Population 10,664. Inns. — T he Post ; the old P jst, (Rovere) or hi inns of Trabot, and St. Francis. We nest pass Albisola, Sestri di Ponente, Novi, Voltri, and many villages, villas, and magnificent palaces belonging to the Genoese nobility, till we skirt the fine suburbs of St. Pietro d’Arena, and arrive at Genoa. Almost the whole of the Riviera is cultivated like a garden, and plantations extend to the very tops of the hills, interspersed with villages, castles, churches, and villas. This voyage, though loften made in two days, sometimes becomes very tedious, when extended to four or five, and this is hot unfrequently the case in bad weather ; the tra- veller also runs the chance of being detained at some of the maievaises auberges, at the little towns on the coast. However propitious the embarkation may be, most persons are too well acquainted with the insidious deep, to place much reliance on those favouring gales which first launch them on the ocean ; to which may be added the disagreeable in - | fiuence of a sea-voyage, on the majority of people. But these are trifles to the experienced traveller. There are two routes by land , one which follows the line of coast, and the other by the grand and ro« mantic country of the Col de Tende. No. 8. From Antibes to Genoa, [By the Coast.] 39s Posts; 1S8| English Miles. TIME. POSTS. HOUR8. Mttf. Antibes to Nice (a) 4 VUlal'raaca 1 t $5 7 % Routes hading to Italy , TIME. FBOM POSTS. HOURS. min; Monaco 1 35 Mentone • 1 30 1 35 St. Remo 2 20 Port Maurice 1 40 Oneglia 1 40 Alassio ? ..... 1 35 Albenga 1 40 Finale • « « 1 30 Noli 1 25 Savona 1 so Varaggio • • • 1 20 Arezzano 1 35 Voltri 1 30 Sestri de Ponente ...... 1 1 25 Genoa ( b ) 1 Inns. — (a) The Dauphin. ( b ) Les Quatres Na- tions, le Grand Cerf, Sainte Marthe, and the Croix de Malthe. The inns in the other towns on this route are often very bad. Tire different towns have already been described. No. 9. From Antibes to Genoa. [By the Col de Tended 44f Posts ; 248 English Miles. PTIO.M Antibes to Nice (a) Scarena • • Sospello Breglio Tende Limoni St. Dalmazzi Coni (6) Cent ale Savigliano Raceonigi Poirino Dusino.. Gambetta . Asti .Quatordio • TIME. POSTS. HOURS. MIN. •••3! 4 3 30 . . .01 3 30 — 4 * 4* 3 50 5 4 '45 ...i| 1 13 . 2 _ 1 8 2 23 1 , 1 10 — if ’ 1 0 ■•••if 1 8 1 5 Nice to Genoa . 73 FROM POSTS. HOW R 8. MINT, Alessandria (c) •••• 1 37 Novi(d) ...... .4 2 Vo h aggle) 2 10 Campomarone(e) 2 40 Genoa ( f ) 1 45 Inns. — («)The Dauphin; the Post, (b) The Red i Hose and Golden Lion, (c) Three Kings and I’Au- I berge d’Angleterre. ( d ) l’Auberge Royale, rue Ghe- rardenghi, and out of the town, going to Genoa, the Post. ( e ) The Post. ( f) The Cross of Malta, &c. From Antibes to Nice, see p. 69* Quitting Nice we begin to ascend the steep and lofty Scarena over which is a line new 7 road has been cut fit for all sorts of carriages. It was formerly passed, like Mont Cenis, in chaises-a-port ins. La Chiaudola is in a very picturesque situa- tion. About three miles farther is the town and fortess of Saorgio, built on the summit of a moun- tain, and appearing as if it were suspended in the air. As far as Tende the road follows the course of a torrent. Tende, once the capital of a comt6, gives the name of the Col de Tende, to this passage of the Alps which is made in five hours ; three for as- cending and two for descending. The passage of the Cot de Tende was formerly niore inconvenient than that of Mont Cenis : if the mountain is covered with ice, it may be descended in a sledge. A little distance from Tende, is a cross road which leads te ipaeglia, and thence to Genoa. Between Limoni and Coni, Monte Viso, W'here the Po takes its source, may be seen at the distance of 40 miles, and the Poggio Melone and Mont Cenis, at 70 miles. The valley betw een Limoni and Coni is partly watered by the Gesso, which fertilises all this part of Piedmont, and partly by the Varine-- Uagna, whose waters contribute greatly to the rich 74 Coni— Asti. crops of corn and grass with which this tract abounds. Coni, once a strong place, is celebrated for the number of sieges it has sustained, and the battles fought in its neighbourhood. The tine and formi- dable fortress of Coni, the bulwark of Piedmont, on the side of the maritime Alps, was surrendered to the Austrians by the French, after a siege of eight days, in the year J?99* It had been besieged in vain in I69l and 1744; and, if in 1799* it made so bad a defence, inferior even to those of the citadels of Turin and Mantua, it must be attributed to the want of provisions, and the almost total deprivation of military stores. It was garrisoned by more than 3,000 men. It is situated in a plain at the junction of the Gesso and the Stura. Its well-known fortifi- cations have been demolished. From this place to Carmagnola is a canal, on which there is a consider- able traffic. Leaving this point, the road improves, and opens into a beautiful plain, abounding with corn and hemp, and covered with mulberry trees, vines, and excellent pasturage. From Raeconigi to Poirino is seen the handsome church of Superga and Chieri, near Turin. At Raeconigi is a post road leading to Carignan, and thence to Turin: at Pocrino we enter the high road Rom Turin to Genoa. Asti is one of the principal towns of Montferrat. The quarter where the higher classes dwell is well built, but thinly inhabited : here are the palaces Frinco, Bistagno, Massetti, and Rovero. The other part of the town is very dull. The streets are nar- row' ; the people poor, without industry or com- merce ; the fortifications are inconsiderable, and in ruins. There are a few churches worthy of notice. Asti gave birth to the modem Sophocles, the ini- mitable Alfieri, the immortal father of Italian traced v. Battle of Marengo . 75 Alexandria di Fa glia, on the Tanaro, is cele- brated for the number of sieges it has sustained, its citadel to the N.E. is esteemed one of the best in Italy ; the fortifications have been greatly im- proved within these few years, and form some of the finest bouvelards*. The population amounts to about 30,000. The governor’s house in the citadel, and the palace Ghilini are fine buildings. There are some handsome churches at Alessandria, and a good modern Theatre- The inhabitants are at- tached to commerce ; and two fairs in April and October attract a great number of foreign mer- chants. Between Alessandria and Novi, is the Abbaye del Bosco, belonging to the Dominicans, which contains a few good paintings, and some fine sculpture of Michael Angelo. About two miles from Alessandria, is the village of Marengo, surrounded by that plain rendered so celebrated all over the world, for the bloody battle fought there by Bonaparte in person, on the 14th of June, 1800, between the Frenc h and Austrians. This victory de- cided the fate of Piedmont and Lombardy ; but it cost the life of the intrepid Desaix, of many other excellent officers, and of full 13,000 men, killed. Wounded, and prisoners on both sides. A column is placed near the spot where Desaix fell, with an inscription in Italian, Latin, and French : a few sculls collected in digging the foundation, and ranged in order round the pedestal, form a savage, but appropriate ornament to this monument. The plain of Marengo entirely destitute of wood, and indeed of vegetation, presents one naked, barren extent of land a fit place for the demon of war to practise his horrid rites, and immolate his victims. * The fortress of Alessandria capitulated in 1799 to Suvorof after a siege of six days. The defence of it cost the French 900 men, and the allies nearly as many. 7 6 Battle of Novi, Novi is, on this route, the first town of Liguria, situated in a plain, at the foot of the Appenines. It has a citadel capable of some resistance, and a population of 6000 persons. Here are some fine houses belonging to the Genoese who reside at Novi, in the autumn. A considerable body of Bri- tish troops were quartered at Novi in 1815, to guarantee the delivery of Genoa to its new/ master, Austria. At Novi , and in its immediate neighbour- hood, a terrible battle was fought in the year 1799* between the French and the Allies (Austrians and Russians) Joubert and Moreau being at the head of the Fiench ; and Kray, Bellegarde, Melas, and Su- Yorof, at the head of the allies. In this battle, two great armies w ere engaged, nearly equal in point of numbers, (about 40,000 each) for more than twelve hours on the whole extent of their front. Joubert was killed very early in the action, but his place was taken by Moreau. This day cost the French 8,000 men, killed and wounded, 4,000 made pri- soners, and 32 pieces of cannon taken on the field of battle. The Imperialists paid for this dear vie - tory by the loss of 7000 men, killed, wounded, or lost, w hich last did not exceed 600. Prodigies of valour were displayed on both sides, on this memo- rable day, — but it did not boast so much of art or military skill. Though the Allies rather outnum- bered the French, the advantage of position, the almost inaccessible heights of Novi, was greatly in favour of the latter. Bt tween Novi and Voltaggio is the castle of Gavi, advantageously seated on a rock for the defence of this mountain pass, but like all the other fortresses of antient Piedmont, it has fallen into ruins. Vol- t fJ ggiOj on the bank of a rivulet, offers nothing remark- able. From this place w e pass the Bocchetta, one of the highest mountains, forming the first of the Novi to Genoa . 77 chain of the Appenines. The road on the side of the mountain is very good, and presents to the eye a continual variety of hill and dale. From the top of the Bocchetta is a fine view of Genoa, and the adjacent country, watered by the Polcevera. From the highest summit of this mountain two rivulets take their rise : the one which runs from N. to S. is lost in the sea at Genoa ; and the other which runs from S. to N. passes by Voitaggio,' Serravalle, and throws itself into the Po. The last post from Campomarone to Genoa is by a new road, made at the expense of. the Cambiaso family. Formerly the traveller was compelled to ford the Polcevera twenty times, but now it is only passed once, over the bridge at Campomarone. The whole of the road is level, straight, and good. On every side are handsome country seats ; and just before we enter Genoa, is the celebrated Palazzo Doria . (See Genoa described at length in a future page.) No. 10. From Antibes to Turin. 28! Posts ; 35 hours 5 minutes. FROM POSTS. Antibks to Raccpnigi Carignan Turin 2|; For a description of this route,, see No. 9- p* 72. sect. vi. — Route by Germany and the Tyrol to Verona. [Through Brussels, Liege, Spa, Aix-la-Chapelle, and by the Rhine, &c.j As many persons return to England by this route, Are shall suppose the traveller to adopt this plan, and, consequently postpone the description of it io the end of our work. H 3 Turin — Fortifications. 78 CHAPTER II. DESCRIPTION OF TURIN. TURIN is beautifully situated on the northern bank of the Po at the foot of a ridge of fine hills, rising southward beyond the river ; while northward extends a plain bounded by the Alps, ascending sometimes in gigantic groupes like battlemented towers, and at other times presenting detached points darting to the clouds like spires, glittering with unmelted icicles, and with snows that never yield to the rays of summer. It is surrounded with good walls and a large fosse, and had formerly re- gular fortifications. After the union of Piedmont with France it became one of the principal cities in the French empire. Its citadel, one of the strongest in Europe, is demolished, but serves as a prome- nade for the inhabitants, being covered with fine trees. The ramparts are three miles in circum- ference. Fortifications. — The citadel of Turin was a regular pentagon, a fort with five royal bastions, having a deep vaulted well in every bastion ; the som- terraines consisting of four galleries one above ano- ther, together with the magazines for provisions and military stores, barracks for men, and stabling for horses, the mines and countermines, presented one of the completest specimens of modern fortification. In the year 1706 Turin was besieged by the French, Turin — Fortifications . 79 for four months and a half. An heroic action of Micha, a Piedmontese peasant, on this occasion, de- serves to be recorded. The French having broken into one of the largest subterraneous galleries which was a key to the citadel, posted 200 grenadiers there ; but Micha w ho was at work, with twenty men completing a mine, under this gallery, heard the French troops over his head. There was no time for deliberation, Micha immediately therefore formed this brave resolution. To save his companions, he ordered them to withdraw from the mine, and fire a musquet as a signal w hen they w ere in a place of safety, requesting them to go and acquaint the king of Sardinia, that Micha implored him to take care ‘of his w ife and children. Upon hearing the signal, Micha instantly set fire to the mine, and this brave man, with the 200 French grenadiers perished in the explosion. The king provided for his wife and children and settled 600 livres a year upon his de- scendants. During the siege a breach was made on that side of the citadel fronting the Susa gate, so wide that a whole battalion in front might have marched into it ; and the only resource left to the be- sieged was to keep a large five continually burning in the breach. All utensils and furniture made of wood w 7 ere used for this purpose, and in several parts of the city, the roofs of the houses were reipoved to feed the flames. By these means the breach wasi defended till the town was relieved *. In ihe year 1?99> Turin surrendered to, the im- perialists after an eight days siege, and only 48 hours fire. The garrison consisted of 2,500 men, and the victors found in the citadel 56.2 of the finest pieces of ordinance, 40,000 muskets, 400,000 * A particular account of the citadel of Turin, may be seen in Keyslcr’s Travels, vol. iv. p, 256. 4to edit. 80 Turin— Streets — Buildings. weight of powder and considerable magazines. It afterwards fell into the hands of the French, when the fortifications were entirely destroyed. Streets. — -The streets are wide and straight, in- tersecting each other at right angles, and running in a direct line from gate to gate through some large and regular squares, the principal of which (that of St. Charles) is ornamented with porticos. The finest streets are those of Santa Theresa, Marengo, Allieri, Austerlitz, and Contrada Nuova. The four celebrated gates of the city, were levelled by the French. Public Buildings. — There are many magni- ficent buildings in Turin both public and private, together with nearly a hundred churches, but al- though marble of every vein and colour has been employed in constructing them, taste and regularity are wanting. Nature has given to Turin abundance of materials, but such workmen as Bonarotti, Vasari, and Palladio, — were not to be found in this city. Gaudy decorations of every kind, are seen on al- most every edifice. The kings palace near the Piazza del Castello has a noble faqade ornamented with balconies, statues and vases. It is entered by a fine vestibule and staircase. There is another palace built by Charles Emanuel II, in the last century. But the most remarkable is the palace Carignano ; although the design of the whole is whimsical and bizarre , the windows, the gate, the grand staircase and saloon are worthy of notice. 'The architect was Guarini. Other palaces are those of Caneille Vaidese, &c. The mairie also, il Palazzo della Cittdy is a tine building, and a great ornament to the herb market. The university is a very considerable building, the interior of which is ornamented with numerous statues, bas-reliefs, and antique inscriptions found in Turin — Churches . 61 the environs of Turin. It possesses a fine cabinet of medals, an anatomical theatre, philosophical instru- ments, and a library containing 70,000 volumes* 2000 of which are MSS. A catalogue of these books was printed at Turin in 1648, in 2 vols. folio. Turin also once possessed the celebrated table of Isis, one of the most precious monuments of Egyp- tian antiquity. It is now in the Louvre. Under the late French government, the Academy had 28 pro- fessors in the different sciences, men of the most distinguished learning and talents. When the king of Sardinia was restored to his dominions last year* almost the first act of his 'paternal government was to dismiss the zohole of these professors , although many of them had devoted nearly their whole lives to science, and had held their situations for twenty years. To what perfection the science and literature of Turin may arrive under the fostering protection of the enlightened Ferdinand , we know not ; — suf- fice it to say, that when Italy was under the domi- nion of France, — this city had a Lycee, a Musee, and many other establishments* including those for the encouragement of drawing, painting, sculpture* and architecture. Churches. — The most remarkable churches are 1 . The Cathedral , dedicated to St. John the Baptist, an antient building, restored in 1498. 2. The chapel of St. Suaire * or della santissima Sindone by Guarini, is noticed rather for its singu- larity than real beauty. It is quite circular, wholly incrusted with black marble* more resembling a mausoleum, and having a most dismal appearance, 2. La Consolata , a union of three churches* has a library, chapter-room, and temple of the virgin. 3* San Filippo Ntri by Giuvara, unfinished, has some pictures by Carlo Maratti and others. 4. The Corpus Donjini is accounted one of the richest and 82 Turin — Theatres — Manners. most elegant Churches in Turin, but there is little taste displayed in its ornaments. 5. St. Cristina has a fine fagade by Giuvai a, and two statues by Le Gros. The churches as well as the other buildings of Turin are embellished with the Susa marble in imitation of vtrde antico, the blue marble of Pied- mont, and other marbles of different colours, brought from the quarries near Genoa, and in Dauphiny. The at res. —There are many theatres at Turin. The theatre of Carignano is in good taste, but that built by Alfieri in 740 is one of the finest and largest in Europe. Manners, Society, &c. — About the middle of the last century, Turin was a lively, flourishing, and populous city. Its court was much frequented by strangers, and its academy was preferred by by some to that of Geneva, as an introduction to Italian manners and society. It still can boast a well informed and polite circle, and the well-edu- cated stranger will not find an introduction difficult. There is little pomp or false pride at Turin, but the people appear to a foreigner to indulge in lux- ury ; — the tradesmen and their wives dress extrava- gantly. Climate. — The climate of Turin is very temper- ate but wet, on account of the snows carried by the wind from the neighbouring mountains which gene- rally fall in rain at their feet. It is, however, suffi- ciently healthy, as there are numerous channels for the water in the town ; there are no marshes, and the least heat is sufficient to dry up any moisture in the city. The temperature of the atmosphere is variable, and the severest cold frequently succeeds the greatest heats. “ The insufferable heat of Turin,” observes Dr. Smith (Travels, vol. ii. p. 128) a on the 4th of August, 92 of Fahrenheit, made me 83 Tu rin — Climate — Environs, long to climb the snowy summits of the Alps which tower above the plains of Piedmont, bounding them on the north like a vast wall. Their neighbourhood is the cause of the seveie cold often felt at Turin in winter, where ice two or three inches thick is ob- tained from the meadows overflowed for that pur- pose. This ice stored in reservoirs proves a most comfortable resource in the heats of summer, and seems one of the necessaries of life. Just about din- ner time every body’s servants are seen carrying dishes of solid ice from the public offices where it is sold ; and it is pure and clean enough to be mixed in substance with every thing that is drank. It was now almost impossible to walk out in the day time ; and even alter dark, those sides of the streets where the sun had shone felt like an oven.” Notwithstanding the variability of the climate Turin offers to those who would unite the advan- tages of town and country, a very pleasant retreat ; as it is free from the distractions of more crowded cities. Its population, about 67,000, extends over a scite of ground of three miles in circumference, or- namented with groves of elms planted within the fosses, forming quincunxes and avenues which are much resorted to in the evening as a promenade. Environs of Turin — About four miles from the city is the Sopeiga , a handsome church, richly ornamented, one of the flnest situations in Europe, built on the top of a mountain, after the designs of Giuvara, in consequence of a vow made by Victor Amadeus in the year 1706, when Turin was be-* sieged by the French. The building was begun in 1713, and finished in 1731. The view from the dome is very extensive. The road to the Soperga as well as the ascent of the mountain on which it stands offers great attractions to the mineralogist and botanist. &4 Turin — Environs — Commerce . La Vigne de la Reine is a small palace of the king’s near Turin, on a height, from whence there is a view of the city, of the plain as far as Rivoli, and of the course of the Po for three leagues. There are some cielings here by Daniele. V eneria Reale is another palace. The orangery is very beautiful, about 540 feet long, and 96 wide, and the stables are spacious and handsome. The gardens are large and laid out in the French taste. The parish church also is by Giuvara. Moncalieri is pleasantly situated on the Po, and being farther removed from the Alps, is warmer than La Veneria or another palace called Stupenigi, w here there are some good pictures. Valentino is a small palace, a little way out of the town, on the banks of the Po: it has a large garden which is open to strangers. The university have also here a small botanic garden, well furnished w ith al- pine plants. The convent of the Camaldules is in a fine situation, on a hill five miles from the city ; it was founded by Charles Emanuel in 1599* The road to this con- vent is very romantic. Commerce, Manufactures, &c. — The chief trade of this city and country is in thrown silk, which is sent to England and Lyons: they manu- facture, however, some of it into excellent stockings, and good silk for furniture. Turin is celebrated for rosoli, millefleurs, snuff, chamois gloves, and some other trifles. Broad-cloths and linen are imported from Great Britain ; some woollens and Lyons goods from France; linens from Switzerland and Silesia ; also iron, copper, sugar, and drugs of all sorts. Their chief exports are cattle, some hemp, thread and cordage : more than ninety thousand bullocks are said to be annually sent out of Pied- mont. Ail the salt used here comes from Sardinia. 85 Twin*-~Co7nmerce . A great deal of wine is made in Piedmont, but it is not all good : the principal attention of the people has been directed to the cultivation of mulberry trees* Rice also is a great object of culture in some pro- vinces. There is abundance of good fruit, particu- larly chesnuts ; and the truffles are remarkably fine. The art of engraving dies for medals is in great perfection at Turin. The Piedmontese language is a mixture of French and Italian, but well-educated persons speak both languages with purity. The people have the reputation of being sharp and crafty, make very good soldiers ; and the peasants and artisans are industrious, and not unskilful. The distance from Turin to Genoa is 122 Eng- lish miles, which may be performed in less than 24 hours. From Turin to Truffarello is one post and a half, and from the last place to Poirino, the same distance. The remainder of the route from Poirino to Genoa, has already been described in No. 9* p. 73. I 86 Genoa, CHAPTER IIL DESCRIPTION OF GENOA® Ecco ! vediam la maestosa immensa Citta, che al mar le sponde, il dorso aimonti Occupa tutta, e tutta a cerchio adorna. THE situation of Genoa (justly styled la Superba) is perhaps without a rival for picturesque beauty. It is placed on an eminence commanding a fine bay, and from some points of view an extent of very fine coast for thirty or forty miles each way ; it i3 shel- tered from the North by an amphitheatre of bold and verdant hills, and being less dispersed than Naples, the eye can, from many different parts, com- mand at once every principal object. The magnificence of Genoa consists chiefly in its sumptuous palaces, with their massy pillars, cor- nices of marble, spacious courts, arcades, and gal- leries. There are few fine streets, except those of Balbi , Nuova, and Nuovissima, almost all the others being narrow and winding: the houses are very lofty, and atford an agreeable shade to the pe- destrian m summer. They are built of brick, and covered with a hard stucco, in imitation of marble, which is frequently painted in various devices. The greater part erected on the descent of the hill are tarnished with platforms ornamented with treil - Ictge, of honey-suckle, jessamine, and other sweet smelling flowers : oranges and aloes also on the walls. Nothing can be more beautiful or ro- mantic than the hanging gardens upon the bas- tions of the town : every step in general presents a Genoa— -Streets— P alaces. 87 prospect of the bay and surrounding country, equally rich, varied, and extensive. Here women of fashion resort in the cool of the evening to hold their con» versaziones. Streets. —The streets though narrow are clean at all seasons of the year, and perviable for the pedestrian : a fresh sea-breeze is generally met with at every corner. The pavement is formed of large flags, or pieces of lava, brought from Naples, as in the streets Balbi and Nuovis- sima, formerly, every ship returning from Naples, being compelled to take them as ballast. Some streets however are paved with common black marble taken from the neighbouring mountains. Few carriages are seen except in the lower parts of the city, and these chiefly in the street of Balbi ; in the other parts sedan chairs are constantly used. In some streets defamatory stones are observed on the walls, on which are inscribed the names of those who have been found guilty of high treason, or other state crimes. The town is well supplied with water by means of aqueducts, conduits, and foun- tains. Palaces.-— The palaces are literally heaped tipon one another in the streets, and far exceed the churches in number : they have not the appearance of castles, as in some tow ns of the North of Italy, but bespeak every where the residence of noblemen. Within and w ithout is seen a profusion of marble in every possible variety of form: columns, piiastres, balustrades, statues, staircases, colossal figures of men and animals, fountains, and open galleries, all constructed of the same rich material ; the latter ornamented with boxes of orange trees, myrtles, Spanish jessamine, and aloes; in a word, every thing that can decorate the interior of a house is here brought together, and often in such profusion as tQ I % m Genoa — Palaces . give the spectator an idea rather of a regal palace than a private residence. Some of the palaces are painted in fresco on the outside, and the roofs are formed of a grey slate, called Lavagna , from the quarry whence it is taken. One of the largest, but not the most handsome palace is that of the Prefecture , once the residence of the Doge. Andrew Vannoni, a Lombard, was the architect. It is a large square building, somewhat resembling a fortress, but does not possess much to detain the traveller of taste. The new great council- chamber, built in the room of that burnt in 1777^ is an extremely magnificent room, ornamented with columns of Spanish marble ( brocatello ) richly varie- gated with red and yellow ; there are also statues between the columns. Here are copies of the paint- ings of Solimene destroyed in 1777. In the small summer Council Chamber are some good paintings relative to the history of Columbus. The palace Doria is without the walls of the city, on the sea shore, at some distance from the gate of St. Thomas. On the front of the street is an in- scription indicating the motive for building this pa- lace, and the estimation in which Doria was held by his countrymen — “ A patriot, who after having saved his country by his wisdom and heroism, refused its offered sovereignty, because he thought it not for the interest of the state that so much power should be vested in one man.” It is quite refreshing to record the virtues of such a man, surrounded as we are by those scenes of blood and perfidy, that system of vil- lany called politics, which has so lately threatened, to desolate the fairest portions of Europe. The limits of this work forbid a description of the eighty-nine other palaces , which are the proud- est ornaments of Genoa; suffice it to notice the palace Balbi ; Durazzo , celebrated for its poble Genoa— Churches. 89 staircase, and gallery of pictures; Brignole distin- guished for its fine fagade, its furniture and stuccoes. The superb palace of the Duke of Doria, in the Strada Nuova, is one of the most magnificent ; that of Spino/a is remarkable for some historical fresco paintings after Julio Romano ; the palace of Serra ; that of Pallaticino , without the gate of Acquasola, built after the designs of Michael Angelo ; those of Carega , Negron e } and a number of others, in the internal and external decorations of which marble, porphyry, granite, gilding, frescos, painting and stucco, are lavished with the utmost profusion. Most of these palaces were once ornamented w ith the chef d' oeuvres of Titian, Vandyke, Jordano, Ve- ronese, Rubens, the Carracci, Rembrandt, and other celebrated masters. Some families indeed have pre- served their pictorial treasures, but an immense number has been sold — some have been let to inn- keepers, and to rich foreigners. Churches. — The church of St. Sirio has not a good exterior but is very beautiful within, the finest marbles being employed in its construction ; its nave is supported by columns of the Composite Order, and the frescos of the roof are w ell designed and beautifully coloured. The Cathedral dedicated to Saint Lawrence was erected in 985, and is a heavy gothic structure, built entirely of white and black marble. r J he chapel of Saint John attracts attention by its columns of porphyry, statues, bas- reliefs, and other decorations. The church of Saint Mary is a fine specimen of the architecture of Pe- rugino. It is near the ramparts of the town, and be- yond the bridge of Carignano over which you pass 1 This bridge, unique in its kind, composed of a single arch, is thrown over a chasm, at the bottom of which there is a street. It is broad enough tor tour carriages to pass a breast. It wijs built v.nder the direction of a French engineer, at til* commencement T 90 Genoa — Hospitals. in your way to it. The interior of the church is in the form of a great cross, and contains two fine pic- tures qf Saint Francis, by Guercino, and Saint Basil, byCarlo Maratti ; there are also some fine statues by Puget, of Saint Sebastian, Alexander Paoli, St. John Baptist, and Saint Bartholomew. The Annon - data is a fine church, remarkable for its portal, gilt and painted roof, its chapels, in one of which re- poses the Due de Boufleurs, commandant of Genoa in 1 746. The church of the Jesuits , dedicated to St. Francis Xavier is near the academy, and contains an assumption of the Virgin, by Guido Reni 3 a pic- ture admired by every connoisseur ; a circumcision of Rubens, and other pictures. There is a great number of oratories here. The Hospitals of Genoa speak loudly the be- nevolence of its inhabitants. The largest is that called P animat one } which receives 2,400 patients of whatever sex, age, or country they may be. How appropriate would the following inscription be if placed over the entrance of the building Quisquis es, hie kumana tuis leniniina morbis ; Indigenp aut nobis ndvena, noster eris. Th e statues of the benevolent contributors to this institution to the number of 75, with an inscription on each, decorate the staircases and halls of the building. The Ospidaletto , for incurables, founded by Hector Vernazza, has also several fine marble sta- tues of its benefactors, but which have been muti- lated by the vandalism of the revolution. The Albergo dei Poveri , founded by a noble of the house of Brignole, is a very magnificent hospiiai'; it is situated without the town, towards the JNoith, and is approached by a double row of oak trees. of the last century : the house of Paoli defrayed the expenses of tbis noble undertaking. Genoa™*- Academy — Libraries. 01 It is appropriated to the old and infirm, as well as to idle persons, who are here employed in spinning, carding, &c. The chapel of the Albergo contains a fine piece of sculpture by Puget, representing the assumption, and a bas-relief by Michael Angelo , of the most exquisite beauty. The subject consists of two heads, about the natural size ; a dead Christ, and his mother bending over him. “ Words cannot do justice to the expression of grief in the Virgin* It is not merely natural in the highest degree ; it is the grief of a character refined and softened above humanity. The contemplation of it recals every affecting scene, every pathetic incident of ones whole life.” Among the other public buildings of Genoa, may be named, the Custom House , a considerable build- ing, looking towards the sea, the fagade of which was painted by Tavarone : the Exchange , the roof of which is supported by Doric pillars of marble ; and the Forto-Franco , an inclosed space, traversed by streets, for the reception of every sort of merchan- dize. Academy, Libraries, &c.~ The academy was established in the year 1751, under the name of the Inslituto Figure. It is divided into tw o parts, and embraces every thing relative to design, painting, sculpture, engraving, architecture, &c. There are professors in law ? , medicine, the sciences, and litera- ture. The Lycee has an excellent library, a rich cabinet of medals, &c. There are also other schools, an archiepiscopal seminary, and a school for the deaf and dumb, founded in 1801 , by the Abbe Assa- ROTTi. Lectures are given by the professors in the palace of the university , formerly belonging to the Jesuits, and one of the finest edifices in Genoa. Two lions in marble, which decorate the vestibule, are worthy of notice, as well as the forest of, pillars 92 Genoa — Promenades — Theatres . rising one above another, the staircases, and the bal- lustrades ornamented with orange and citron trees. H ere is a botanic garden , superintended by that eminent professor Viviani, and a museum of natural history, which owes every thing to his skill and in- dustry. It is rich in indigenous productions, as birds and fish ; and possesses a fine collection of all the minerals of the country, classified and arranged by the same professor. In a spacious and lofty hall, the walls and roof of which are ornamented with fresco paintings, the examinations and theses are held, and the distribution of the prizes takes place. The students who frequent the university can have resort to other libraries for information. There are three supported at the public expense ; that of Franzoni, in the antient convent of St. Ambrose, open every day ; cf the peres de la Mission , of Saint Matthew , and of the academy in the strada di Balbi. Another library called Berio has been opened to the public in the Campetto, by the generosity of an in- dividual : here is a rich collection of antient and modern books in all classes of literature and science. Promenades, Theatres, &c. — The grand summer promenade for those who keep carriages, takes place every evening, beginning at the new Mole and ending at Acquasola, an extent of more than two miles, in which there is the greatest variety of beautiful scenery. Men in the middle ranks of life, who have neither carriage nor chair, content them- selves with the small circuit of the Acqua verde. In this square is erected a statue of Napoleon, with the following words ' “ Imperatori Napoleoni Magno Commune Genuemium .” The pedestrians choose another walk, scarcely less agreeable, which leads from the gate of St. Thomas to the square called la Cava , about two miles in length. In the small piazza, called delie Grazie , the bankers, merchants. Genoa — Villas. 93 and speculators, meet to look out for the arrival of vessels. There are two theatres at Genoa frequented by the beau-monde, San Agostino, near the church of that name, and Falcone in the palace of Marcellino Durazzo. The grand theatre opens on Christmas day, and continues till Lent. The Opera Buffa commences at Easter, and finishes in June, when the field is left open to French actors. There are some small theatres ( tea- trini) in the environs of la Polceverra, but they are only for the common people. Among the number of Villas in the neighbour- hood of Genoa, the most agreeable to the bo- tanist and lover of picturesque beauty, is that at Zerbino , belonging to Hyppolito Durazzo, who has collected together a great number of curious plants. A brother of Durazzo’s who lives at Cornegliano s has an excellent museum , remarkable for the rarity and selection of the subjects contained in it, taken from the mineral and animal kingdoms. The lover of plants will find abundant amusement in the garden and greenhouses of M. Grimaldi, at Pegli ; the villa of M. Durazzo, on the bastion of Acquasola ; and that of M. di Negro, on the bastion of the Capuchins. The environs of Genoa indeed offer the greatest attractions to the naturalist, both in the abundance of its rare and curious plants, and ima variety of very beautiful insects. The glow-worm ( lampyris Italica) which darts its momentary splendour through all the streets, gardens, and houses, is very common in the evening, and it is fre- quently an occupation of the gentlemen to collect this vivid insect, and place it in the hair of the ladies. If trodden upon, and the foot be drawn along the ground, a luminous line remains for some minutes. But as it is foreign to the plan of this work to enter into a description of the various interesting subjects in natural history to be found in the vici^ §4 Genoa — Manners . nity of Genoa, or even to name them, we must again refer to the very excellent Travels of Dr, Smithy Vol. III. pp. 91 — 1®3, where the reader Will find a pleasing account of some herborizing ex- cursions, and a list of the most curious insects. Lo Scoglietto. This house, which at once em- braces the advantages of town and country, is per- haps the finest in the neighbourhood of Genoa, The architect, Tagliafico, has availed himself of the natural advantages of the place, and formed a fairy palace of exquisite beauty : in the grounds, the visi- tor may repose under the shade of the box, the oak, the elm, and the plantain, and listen to the sound of the numerous water-falls ; while, from a neighbour- ing terrace, may be had the most delicious views of the sea, its coast, and the numerous hills which en- viron this enchanting spot. There are some very fine arabesques and paintings in fresco, on the stair- case, and in the apartments, by Pietro del Vaga, a pupil of Raffaelle. The proprietor of this house has also formed a library with the greatest taste. People, Manners, &c. The population of Genoa, reckoning the inhabitants of the faubourgs, amounts to 150,000 souls. The Genoese have the reputation of being keen and crafty in their com- mercial transactions. The Italian Proverb says, that they have a sea without fish, land without trees, and men without faith. The character which the Latin poets have given of them is not very different. Au- sonius calls them