S K ETCH O F A T O U R INTO D E R B Y S H IRE AND YORKSHIRE, INCLUDING PART OF BUCKINGHAM, WARWICK, LEICESTER, NOTTINGHAM, NORTHAMPTON, BEDFORD. AND HERTFORD— SHIRES. By WILLIAM BRAY, F, A. S. *Si quid novifti re6lius iilis Candidas imperti-^ THE SECOND EDITION, LONDON: Printed for B. White, at Horace's Head, in Fleet-Street. M.DCC.LXXXIII, I Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2014 https://archive.org/details/sketchoftourintoOObray PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. THE traveller who fets out on a long journey with the ex- pe6lation of meeting with the fame accommodations on the road that he has at his own houfe, will foon find himfelf miftaken. If, under the impreffions of his difappoint- ment, he takes up his pen to write his obfervations, he will complain that the wine was bad, the chicken tough, the bed hard ; he will dwell on the barrennefs of a heath, and in defcribing the poverty of a country, ftrip naked nefs of its very fig-leaf. But a man of this temper has no A 2 right iv PREFACE. right to trouble the public. If, in- deed, in pointing out the defeds, he pointed out the means of removing thofe defeats, he might do a real fervdce ; but if he pretends to no more than to amufe, why weary the reader with his fpleen ? In a journey of this fort, as in the journey of life, the fretful man communicates his own t(£dium to all about him, and prevents the enjoyment of fuch pleafures as lie in the way. To take the world as it is, to pafs over the difagreeable parts as lightly as pof- Ubie, and to make the mofi; of every gleam of funfliine, is the way for a man to make the pafiage eafy to himfelf, and comfortable to thofe v/ho are his companions. The writer of the following fketch, for he does not prefume to % call PREFACE. V call it a complete account, wiflies to communicate fome part of the pleafure he received in the Tour ; and he thinks the traveller will find in it fome information that will be ufeful, and that will enable him to make the moft of his time, a gircum- ftance about which the writer found himfelf much at a lofs, for want of direction. If he fucceeds in any de- gree, or if he fhall be the means of exciting one more able, to give a more perfed: account, he will not think the time fpent in digefting his notes, wholly mifemployed. i^ovemher 1777. PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. A LTHOUGH the reception jL \ v/hich the Firft Edition of this Tour met with from the public was very flattering to the Author, yet he cannot without much diffi- dence hazard a Second Edition, which has fo much new matter (de- rived from a repetition of vilits to the principal fcene of defcription, and from fubfequent information) that it may almoft be confidered as a new book. This diffidence is not a little increafed from Mr. Penjiant having taken part of the fame route ; polTelTed as that gentleman is of an eye PREFACE. vii eye to obferve, a pen to defcribe, and a pencil to delineate, every thing worthy obfervation in every place he comes to, the Author of the prefent performance fhrinks from the comparifon (if indeed any com- parifon will ever be formed). He can only hope for a continuation of that candor which he has already experienced, February 1783. LIST OF PLATES. I. The Crofs at Mountforrell, Page 93 11. Arch in Bakewell church - 154 HI. Crofs in Bakewell church-yard 155 IV. Camp on Mam Torr * - 203 V, Camps at Hatherfage and Brough 208 VI. Antiquities at Brough - - 210 VIL Part of St. Peter's church at? , Northampton - - - S ' VIII. Part of the fame - - - 367 IX. Part of the fame - - - 368 - ERRATA. Page 367. line lo. for Plate VI. read Vlztt VII. line 26. for Plate VIL read Plate VIII Page 368. line i.for Plate VIII. read Plate IXc SKETCH O F A TOUR, &c. HE who derives pleafure from contem- plating the venerable remains of an- tiquity, or the elegant ftrudures of the modern archited: ; who has a tafte for the beauties of nature in her genuine fim- plicity, or as they are pointed out to view by the hand of art ; he who feels his heart glow at the fight of the ingenious mechanic, whofe labors difFufe plenty and chearfulnefs around his habitation, circulate thro' every part of the globe, and are a truer fource of national wealth than the mines of Fotofi^ will find ample matter of gratification by purfuing the route I am about to defcribe. I propofe to lead him to Buckingham^ Banbury^ Edge- hill, Warwick ^ Coventry, B Xueicejter^ i [ o Leicefiery Derby^ Matlock^ Euxtoriy Shef^ Jieldj Leeds y Ripo?2, and AJkrig ; and to re- turn thro' the wilds of Tork^dirCy called Craven^ and by Mansfield ^ Nottingham^ Northampton y Woburny and St. Albans. Three miles beyond Uxbridge you kave the Wycomb road, and turning on the right go by the two ChalfontSy watered by a plea- fant ftream (which however deferts them in a very dry fummer, as it did in 1781) betv/een hills which rife on each hand> covered in many places with fine beech woods, to AmerJJjam. This was the eftate of Ann Nei)ily daughter of Ralph Nevil^ sEarl of Wefimorelandy and wife of Humphrey Staffordy Duke of Buckingham y who was killed in the battle of Northamptony in the 38 H. 6, fighting for that king, and was held by her after his death, as Dugdale tells us in one place^; but in another, he makes it part of the great eftate of Ann Beauchampy fifter and heirefs of the Duke of Warwick (afterwards wife of Nevily the ftout Earl of that place) whofe lands were feized by E. 4, on her hulband's defeftion, reftored to her by Hen. 7, and foon after conveyed by her to that king \ It was however in * Dugd. Bar. v. i. i66, 167, 306, 307. ^ Warvv. V. 418^ and Bar. v, i. the Mi the hands of Hen. 8, who gave it to "John RuJJelU created by him Lord RuJ/elly whofe refidence was at Cheyneys, not far from f hence ^ In the laft century, it became the eftate of the Drakes ; the prefent repre- fentative of that fiourifhing family has built an tltg^nt feat a mile beyond the town^ in the road to ^ylejhury. His houfe flands on riling ground, which flopes gently to a bottom, in which a large piece of water was defigned, but Vv^hich has not entirely anfwered expedtation. The ground about the houfe is adorned v/ith beautiful groups of the moft noble oak, afii and beech. One of this gentleman's fons is pre fen ted by him to the living, which, from its value, and the goodnefs and fituation of the parfonage houfe, is no bad eftablifhment for a younger fon, even of a family as wealthy as this is. The parfonage houfe ftands very pleafantly on the fide of the hill, above the town, looking to the fou^h, well flickered by woods. In 1778, the church was cleaned, and new pewed, and Mr. Drake brought a window of painted glafs from an old houfe of his, called La?72ery in Herts, and out it up in the chancel. In the upper part of it ^ Lei and Itin. v. 4. p. foi, B 2 art [ 4 1 are two fmall figures, a Lamb and a Dove j below them are three ; Faith with a crofs, Hope leaning on an anchor, and Charity fuckiing a child. Beneath are the twelve Apoftles, in two rows. There is not one monument or infcription in the body of the church ; but in the chancel are fome for the Drake family, and one for Henry Cnr- weUy a youth, who died at fchool at this place, fon of Sir Curweriy of Work- ington^ in Cumberland. In a room over the family vault of the Drakes^ is a monument for Mr. Montagu Drake^ (the prefent gen-* tleman's father) with a whole length figure of him recumbent, his Vv/idow fitting at his feet, by ^cheemakers ; oppofite is a farco- phagus, of yellow or brown marble, with feftoons of flowers in white marble on the borders, in memory of the late Mrs. Drake ^ of whom there is a fmall figure in white marble, kneeling, with fix children behind her. Near this is a medallion, with a bafs relief of Mr. Drake/]un. (laid to be a flrong likenefs) in a Roman habit, leaning on an urn, which ftands on a pillar, infcribed to the memory of his firft wafe, who died at the age of twenty. Underneath are thefe lines j Cara Maria vale l—veniet felicius sevum, Quancio iterum tecuni;, fim niodo dionus, ero. At [ 5 ] At Miifenden was an abbey founded by T^ho. de Muffenden (as it v/as then written) in ^293 ^ It was one of the greater abbies diffolved in 3 1 H. 8. Joh?z Stewell the abbot being allowed a penlion of 30/. a year% It is now the feat of Mr. Goojirey. A few miles from hence, on the left of the road, is Whiteleaf Crofs^ cut out in the fouth v/efl fide of a high chalky hill, and vilible, from the Oxjordjhire fide of the country, at a great diftance. It is near 100 feet in length, and 50 in breadth, at the bottom, but decreafiHg upwards to about 20 at the top. The tranfverfe line is about 70 feet in length, 12 in breadth, and the trench cut into the chalk is about two or three feet deep. This, like the IV hit e Hoi"] c in Berks y the Red Horfe at Edge Hilly and the Giant on Trendle Hilly near C erne Abbas y in Doj'^fetfiirey is fcoured out from time to time, but not at any regular periods. Mr, Wife attributes it to the time of Edw. the elder y fuppofes the ^axons to have had a for- tification 2X Princes Kifboroiighy v^^hich is juil by y remains of which, he fays, were vifible ^- Dugd. Mon. V. I. 542. but Camden, v. i. 310, fays it was founded by the D'Ollys-, augmented by the noble fa- mily furnamed De MiJJhiden, Had. MS. C04. p. 94. B 3 when [ 6 ] when he wrote (in 1742)^ and which the common people call the Black Prince s Pa- lace, and thinks this crofs was cut in me- mory of fome vidory gained hpre. The name of a village called BledloWj a mile or two off, he fays confirms the idea of a battle having been fought hereabouts, Bledelaw or Bledlow fignifying the Bloody Hill as Ble- don -down, in So7nerfefJJjirey is fo called from a bloody battle fought there with the Danes^ in 845 \ The way to it turns off at the end of Great MiJJenden, and leads by Hampden, the almoft deferted feat of the ancient family of that name, the chief of which diflinguifhed himfelf fo much by his oppoiition to the levying of fhip money, and who was one of the lirft to take arms againft Charles I. and one of the firft who fell in the contention. A filler of that Mr, Hampden married Sir "john .Trevor; and from them the pre- fent owner. Lord Vifcount Hampden, is dcfcended. The laft of the name, and the twenty-fourth hereditary lord of this place, gave it, with a good eftate here, to Mr. Trevor, on condition he changed his name. When the barony of Trevor de- ^ Wife^s farther ObfervatioRS on the Vale of White Hor/e^ fcended { 7 1 fcended to him, he got the title of Vifcount Hampden^ that the name might ftill be pre- ferved, but he lives chiefly in BedfordJJoire. The houfe ftands on high ground, and is a pretty good one ; the floors are unj.leafant, being moflly oak, rubbed bright, or brick. There are feveral portraits, but the fervants know nothing of the perfons reprefented' by them. A vC^hole length of Oliver Cromweir' f,/.^y qn the ftair-cafe is ealily difliinguifhed. In the church, which is jufl by, a monument is ereited for the laft Mr. Hampden^ on which various intermarriages of the family are reprefented in {hields of their arms, hung on a tree. A road through fome fine beech woods comes out on a dov/n, on the right of which is a tumulus, called Ellejborough Copy from the name of the village below j the left hand road leads along the Iknild way (which is viflble here, and retains the name for a confiderable length, and is to be traced into IlantSy or further) to the ham- let of Whiteleafy where is the crofs. Juft below are the two pariihes of Monks Rifoo-^ roughs and Princes Rifoorough \ the latter is a fmall town. The fortification which Mr. V/ife mentions, feems to be the fpot adjoining to the weft end of the church- yard. This was probably the manor houfe, B 4 which [ 8 ] which was pioated round, but is now en^ tirely deftroyed ; and it is likely was part of the eftate of Edw, the Black Prince, from which it took its name of Prince's Rijho- rough, to diftinguifh it from the next parifh, (called Monks Ri/boroughy from its belonging to the monks of Canterbury The living is very fmall^ and has been augmented by ^een Anne's bounty, and the benevolence of Mr. Penton, then lord of the manor, vvhich has been fince fold to Mr, Qrubby whofe feat is below. The great tithes are confiderable. The land here is moftly very good ; the common field lets from ^s. 6d. to 2^s. an acre. Near the church of EUeJboroughy on a round hill, is an ancient fortification, called Pelinuss Cajlle, above which is an high hill, called Belinejbury Hill^ . At Great and X//- tie Kymbel are fome remains of antiquity, and the name is fuppofed to be derived from that of the Britifli king CunobelinCy whofe two fons were killed in an ailion probably fought hereabouts '\ Aylejbiiry, 40 miles from London, is an indifferent town, in a rich fertile vale, to ^hich it gives name, and which afibrds the I Camb. Brito v, i. 310. ^ Ibid. ^ Ibid. fineft 6 [ 9 ] fineft pafture, and produces great quantities of beans and corn. It is the largefl: parifh in the county, including in it Ellejborough^ Bier t on ^ Buckland^ Stoke - Mandeville, and ^arendon^ all which were only chapels of eafe to it. This was one of the four Britijh garrifons taken by the Saxons in 571, under Cuthwulf] in the expedition he made to Bedford ^. St. Ojitb^ the foundrefs of the religious houle of that name, in EJJex, was born at ^arendoUy but was beheaded, anno 600, bv the Danes i in EJJeXy from whence her body w^as removed to the church of Aylef- bury 'y it continued here 46 years, and then was carried back again. Whilft it remained here, however, many miracles were per- formed by it, and a religious houfe was built in memory of her v^here the parfonage now {lands ^ I do not know whether this was the fmall houfe of Friers Minors men- tioned by Dugdale, which in the furvey, 26 H.8. was valued at no more than '^Lis.^d. per annum Befides this, there was at the diiTolution a houfe of Grey Friers, founded by the Butlers ^ afterwards Earls of Ormonde temp. R. 2. On the diffolution the con- ^ Chron. Saxon, fub arm. 571, ^ Leiand Itin. v. 4. p. 100. ^ Dugd. Mon. y. i, 1038* ventual [ ] ventual houfe was preferved, and given by Hen. 8, to Sir "John Baldwin^ Chief Juftice of the Common Pleas, who made it his feat, purchafed the manor of the heir of the Earls of Wilts and Ormondy to whom it had defcended from the family of Fitzpiers, Earl of EJfex I built a town hall, and was a great benefador to the place. It was afterwards the feat of the Packingtons^ who married a daughter of Sir "John Baldwin^ but ruined in the civil war, in the laft century After the diflblution, there was dug up in this houfe an alabafter effigy of a man in armour, with thefe arms on his breaft, a fejje between three leopards faces ^ being the monument of Sir Robert Lee, who died in the reign of Hen. 7. and. was anceftor of the Earl of Lic/jfield. This Vv^as removed into the pa- rifh church, and now lies in the north crofs aifle, but fliamefully fcratched and dif- ligured. The manor of Aylejhury belonged to the Conqueror, who made the church, with Bierton, &c. prebendal to Lmcoln. This great abufe, appropriations, was often cen- fured, but by means of the monks and the pope, maiiitained its ground till the diflb- ^ Vv^'illis's Not. Pari. v. i. p. 123, U4. lutiori [ II ] lution of the monafteries. Robert Grojibead^^ made Bifhop of Lincoln in 1235, faw the mifchiefs arifing from it, and endeavoured to reform the eviL He took away this church from the deanry of Lincoln^ to which it had been long annexed, and col- lated a refiding redor to the full propriety of it. Richard de Graiiefend, however, who came to the fee in 1270, made it again pre- bendal, as it^ ftill remains; but he had fo much' regard to the care of the parifliioners fouls as to ofdain that the portion of tl^e vicar fhould confiderably exceed that of the prebendary, diredling that the latter fhould have 30 marks, and the former, who Jloould rejidey 40, at the leaft, or 50 marks p. The inclofure of the common fields has raifed the value of the vicarage from 60/. to 140A a year. Mr. Gladman^ a former vicar, left his li- brary to the church, and the parilh fitted up a wainfcot prefs for the books in the north crofs aifle, * The charadler of this excellent prelate is, that he was an awe to the Pope, and a monitor to the King, a lover of truth, a corrector of prelates^ a diredlor of priefi5, an in- ilru^as given by King O^t'/, in 794, to the abbey of St. Albans \ and being made, with its members Granborcugh and Little Harivood, (heretofore chapel ries to it) and fome other places, of exempt jurifdiftion, and appropriated to that abbey, became, on the diilblution, part of the diocefe of London \ Mr. Lowndes has a feat here. The village of Fadbury ftands on the fide of a little hill, from the brow of which is feen a pleafant valley below, with a ftone bridge over a fmall river, and at a diftance, Stowe emerging from its woods. Buckingham^ -though feated on a knoll, is furrounded by other hills, and is nearly encompalTed by the Ouje^ which takes a bend round the hill on which flood the caftle, now entirely demolifhed. Edward the Elder built two caflles here, in 918^ Camd. v. i. 312. ^ Willis's Cath. v. 3. p. 2. one [ 14 • 1 one on each fide the Oufe^ this was pof« fibly the fite of one of them ; but there is no certain account when or by whom it was deftroyed, though it is probable that it went to ruin on the attainder of the laft Duke of Buckingham^ of the name of Staf- .fordy in 1521. In 1574, Queen Elvzabeth granted to Edward Gi'-imjion the caftle farm, two caftle mills, &c. late the pofleffion of Edward Duke of Buckingham, The town is not large, but includes fonie confiderable hamlets. It was of note enough in the time of Edw. 3, to have one of the ftaples for wool fixed here, when that great prince, with a difcernment beyond the ge- nius of the age in which he livedj by pro- hibiting the exportation of unmanufadured wool, kid the foundation of a trade which has lince been carried to a moft amazing extent \ The making of lace is now thd ^ Willis's Buck, pc 49. « I had always under flood that the exportation of goods ifianufadured from the raw materials of the country, was a clear gain of the improved price arifing from the various branches of labour employed in that maniifadlure; and that it was true policy to keep thofe raw materials at home, to be v/orked up, inllead of their being exported raw, and worked up by foreigners ; but the ingenious Mr. Anderfon (a gen- tleman who in many things deferves attention) thinks the prohibition of exporting wool has been detrimental to us. See his EJfay on the Means of exciting a Spirit of national Indujlry, employment [ 15 ] employment of this as well as of many other parts of the country ; but the refort to Stowe is what enlivens the place. The manor and borough have been the fucccffive property of the families of G?ffard^ Clare ^ Breofe^ Audley and StaJJord ; were granted by Hen. 8, on attainder of the Duke of Bi^ckingbam, to Lord Marney, and on his death, without iirue, to William Cary^ Efq. v/hofe fon, created B iron of Htm/don^ by Queen Elizabeth, fold to Br ocas, v^^hofe fon fold the manor, with the tolls of fairs and markets, to the corporation^ who are now the owners There was a church here early in the Saxon times, but it was dependent on Kings Suttony in Northajnptonjlnre^ 14 miles ofr^ and was fupplied by a curate, put in by tnc vicar of that place, till about the year 1445, when a vicar was appointed, and an endow^- ment made. His income has been lince augmented, by a donation of Dr. FerincheiJ\ a prebendary of Wejiminjier^ who left a fiini of money far that purpofe, in 1673, with which his truflees purchafed 53 acres of land in this pariili, and the tithe of them, formerly part of the prebend of BiAckinghanii and fettled them on the vicar. ^ Willis's Buck. p. 26^ Tins [ 16 ] This Kings Sutton, with Buckingham, and Uorley, and Hornton, (two parifhes in Ox- fordjbire) was made prebendal to Lincoln cathedral, in the reign of William 2 % and was the befl endov/ed of any in the king- dom, except Majham, in Torkflrire, being worth loool. per anniim'^, but .was furren- dered to Edw. 6, and by him granted to his uncle, Edward Seymour, Duke of So-- merfet \ ' e The church, or chapel, became famous, by being made the burial place of St. Rum- bold, fon of fome Saxon king, w^hofe name is not mentioned. He was born at Kingi Sutton, 1 Nov. 626, but buried here. He was canonized, and a fhrine was eredted for him'', Hiftory is filent as to the particulars of his life, or what extraordinary ad:s of piety he performed to occafion this honour; indeed it could not have much to fay on the fubjed:, for it feems this venerable faint died two days after he was born. His canonization, however, anfwered fome pur- pofes, for it occafioned great refort of pil-- grims to the place y Dugd. Mon. V. 3, 259. ^ Camden v. \y 311. ^ Willis's Buck. 37. b 23. ^ He was a patron of fifhermen, and his feaft flill obferved at Folkjlone^ in Kenty in the month of December, fays Camden'' % Continiiator, v, i, p. 311. Under [ 17 ] Under this patronage the church became a large and handfome building, and had a lofty fpire of loo feet high placed on a tower of 63 feet high. The fpire was blown down in 1693, and never rebuilt"^; and in 1776, the fteeple fell on the roof, and beat it entirely in, leaving only the fide walls ftanding. A handfome and elegant new church has been built on the caftle hill, to which the late and prefent Earl temple have contributed mofl; liberally, pay- ing all the expence above 2000/. y the whole is calculated at 7000/. It is built of white ftone, got in the neighbourhood ; that ufed in the fpire was brought from Brill'hilL It flands north and fouth, (pro- bably to form a better objeft from Stowe gardens) the entrance being at the north end next the town ; at the fouth end is the bell- fry, with a fpire on it, the whole height 158 feet. Over the north window are the earl's arms carved in ftone, with his motto moft appofitely placed, "Templa quam dileSla! Over the bellfry door are the arms of the town. The church is fpacious, having three ailes and a gallery on each fide, Ionic pillars fupporting the roof, which over the middle aile is coved 5 over the galleries is ^ Willis's Buck. p.6ia C vaulted. [ i8 3 vaulted, with rofes on the points of the arches. Between the two doors at the north end is the communion table, where is an altar piece given by Lord "Temple^ which he brought from Rome^ and is faid to have coft hirn 400/. It reprefents two parts of our Savior's hiflory; in the fore- ground he is carting out a devil, in the back ground is his transfiguration. On getting the fummcr affizes fixed here. Lord Cob-* ham J in 1748, eredted a gaol in the middle of one of the ftreets (which is there of confiderable width) and commemorated the fixing of the affizes by an infcription over the door. It is an oblong fquare, battled and turretted at each corner, and built with Hones taken from the remnants of the caftle, A fire in 1725 burnt down great part of the town; but advantage was not taken of that misfortune to rebuild the flreets in a hand- fome manner. A chapel belonging to a fchool, founded to teach fome boys Latin, has an arched door with zigzag ornaments. The con- fcientious mafter takes the falary of loL a year, but refufes to teach any fcholars. Had a f^jrmer mailer been of this difpofi- tion, /////, the learned taylor, would not have had the opportunity of acquiring the knQW'- 6 t 19 ] knowledge of Latin. When an apprentice here, his deiire of learning was fo great, and the means of accomplifliing his purpofe fo unequal, that it was by an expedient which few would have thought of, and fewer would have carried into execution, that he got the firft rudiments of that tongue. He had in his pofTeffion a Latin grammar, but it w^as of no ufe without an interpretation ; to obtain this, he went on errands for the fchool-boys, on condition they would Englifh one of the rules for him. From hence he went on, and made himfelf mafter of Greek and Hebrew % From the end of the town the late Earl Temple made a new road to his fo much ce- lebrated feat at Stowe. It runs in a ftraight line about two miles up to the Corinthian arch> on coming to which, you turn on the right to an inn, where the horfes may be left, or to which they may be fent back from the garden gate. Stowe w^as formerly part of the polTeffions of the abbey of Ofeney^ and belonged to the bifliop of that place, when Hen. 8, on the diffolution, erected the abbey into a bifhop- rick ; but that capricious monarch foon changing his mind, rem.oved the founda- ^ Sj3ence's parallel between him and MagliabeccL C 2 tion [ 20 ] tion to Chriji Church. Stowe followed the fortune of the abbey, till Queen Elizabeth having taken the eftates into her hands, on a vacancy of the fee of Oxford^ granted this manor and eflate, in 1590, to yohn Tempky Efq/ (ancellor of the prefent earl) a gentleman of a very ancient family, feated at l^e?nple-bail^ in LekeJierJInre^. A park of about 200 acres was inciofed by his de- fcendant. Sir Peter Temple ; whofe fon, Sir Richardy after the reftoration, rebuilt the manor-houfe, and fettled 50/. a year on the vicarage, which in the hands of the abbots had been very poorly endowed. Thofe lazy and luxurious dignitaries paying no more attention to the due performance of divine fervice, than lay impropriators in general do now. This gentleman's fon was created Baron and Vifcount Cobham by George 1. and dy- ing without iffue, left his eftate to his fe- cond lifter, Hejier^ wife of Richard Gren- ville, of IVottoriy in this county, mother of the late Earl Temple. He died in 1779, and was fucceeded in title and eftate by his nephew, fon of his brother George. ^ Willis'* s Buciii?icrham, o s Of this family was the famous dame Hejier Temple, daughter of Mr. Sa/idys^ of Latimer, in Bucks ', who, ac- cording to Fuller^ lived to lee more than 700 of her own licfcendant^, 6 • To [ 21 ] To Lord Cobham thefe gardens owe their beauty. He laid out the lawns, he planted the groves, he ereded the buildings. The internal beauties are fuch, for extent and variety, that the elegant and piclurefque fcenes they contain, make amends for the want of thofe diftant profpedts which are the ornaments of fome fituations. Thefe grounds were laid out when regu- larity was in fafhion, and the original boun- dary is ftill preferved on account of its mag- nificence ; for round the whole circuit of between five and fix miles, is carried a broad gravel walk, planted with rows of trees, and open either to the park or the country. A deep funk fence goes all the way, and in- cludes about four hundred acres. In the interior fcenes of the garden few traces of regularity appear ; where it yet remains in the plantations in any degree, it is at leafl difguifed, and a bafon, which was an oc- tagon, is converted into an irregular piece of water falling down a cafcade into a lake below. In the front of the houfe, which ftands on the brow of a gentle rife, is a confider- able lawn, open to the water, beyond which are two elegant Doric pavilions, placed in C ^ the t 22 ] the boundary of the garden, but not mark- ing it as fuch, though they correfpond to each other; for, ftill further back, op a ru fing ground without the inclofure, ftands the Corinthian arch, which is feen in' the approach. I £hall not attempt to defcribe all the buildings, v/hich are very numerous, but lhall mention fome of the principal fcenes. On entering the garden, you are con- duded to the left by the two Doric pavilions^ from whence the magnificent front of the houfe is full in view. You pafs by the fide of the lake (which, with the bafon, flows about ten acres) to a temple dedicated to VentiSy looking full on the w^ater^ and over a ]av/n, up to the temple of Bacchus ^ to which you are led by a winding walk. This laft building ilands under cover of a wood of large trees. The lawn, which is ex- tenfive, is bounded by wood on each fide-,^ and Hopes down to the water, on the op- pofite fide of which is the very elegant tem- ple of Venus y jufl mentioned, thrown into perfpe6live, by being inclined a little froni a front view. Oyer the tops of the fur- rounding wood is a view of the diflant country, terminated by Brill-hill^ near Oxford i [ 23 ] Oxford^', and ^atnton-kill, near Aylef- bury. From hence you crofs the lawn by the front of the houfe, which is nearly in the centre of the gardens, dividing them as it were into two parts. In the latter divi- fion, the tower of the parifli church, bo- fomed in trees, the body of it wholly con- cealed from view, is one of the firfl things which ftrikes the eye, and you are uncer- tain whether it is more than one of the or- namental buildings. Faffing by it you en- ter the 'Elyjian fields^ under a Doric arch, through which are feen, in perfpedive, a bridge, and a lodge in the form of a caille. The temple of FriendJJjtp is in fight ; and within this fpot are thofe of Ancient Virtue and of the Briti^o WorthieSj adorned with bufls of various eminent men, and infcrip- tions, mentioning their particular merits. Here is alfo a roftral column to the memory of Capt, Grenvillcj brother of the late earl, w^ho w^as killed in that fuccefsful engage- Camden, v. I. p. 310, fays, the Brill is a fmall country town (To called by contradion from Bury-hiil) fome time a royal villa of Ed^.^ard the ConfeJ/or. His continuator de- rives the name from Bruel, a thorny place, and Bruer, a thorn ; but the former is perhaps the moft probable, if we confider that Brill is the name for the place where Co-far had his camp at Pancras^ C 4 meat [ 24 ] ment with the French fleet in 1747, when Mr. Anfon took the whole of the convoy \ In the bottom runs a ftream, which, with, the variety and difpolition of the trees dif- perfed over gentle inequalities of ground, make this a very lively and beautiful fcene. Clofe to this is the Alder-grove^ a deep recefs in the thickeft fliade. The water, tho' really clear, is rendered of a dark blue color by the over-hanging trees : the alders are of an uncommon fize, white with age; and here are likewife fome large and noble elms. At the end is a grotto, faced with * The chara6ler of this gallant officer was moH amiable ; he was of true courage and condud ; a humane and ge- nerous commander ; beloved by his officers ; efteemed as a father by his failors. His lofs was lamented in fome elegant Englijh lines by Mr. (afterwards lord) Lyttelton ; and by a Latin infcription on this column by Lord Cobham. In the the latter, the following lines, Perire, dixit moribundus, omnino fatlus effe Quam inertias reum in judicio iill:i; relate to a known Hory, that the commander in chief threw out the fignal for the line^ and that the French fleet would have efcaped, if Sir Peter Warren, feeing the danger of laiing the opportunity, had not^ tho' fecond in command, made f^gnals for a chace, refuiing to take them down ; he was well fupported in this by Capt. (afterwards Sir Peter) Denis-, Capt, Grercvilk \ Capt. (afterwards Admiral) Bof-- ca^ojen, and others. The commander finding Warren re- folure, had magnanimity enough to alter his fignal from that for the line, to a chace ; and prudence enough to mak^ no complaint of difobedience, flints [ 25 ] jflints and pebbles, in which the late earl fometimes fupped. On fuch occafions this grove was illuminated with a great number of lamps, and his lordfhip, with a benevo- lenfce which did him honor, permitted the neighbourhood to fhare the pleafure of the evening with him and his company, the park gates being thrown open. f The temple of Concord and ViSlory is a moft noble building. In the front are fix Ionic columns fupporting a pediment filled with bas-relief, the points of which are crowned with ftatues. On each fide is a beautiful colonade of ten lofty pillars. The infide is adorned with medallions of thofe officers who did fo much honor to their country, and under the aufpices of his lordfhip's immortal relation, Mr. Fitty car- ried its glory to fo high a pitch in the war of 1755 ; a war moft eminently diflin- guilhed by Concord and Victory. This tem- ple ftands on a gentle rife, and below it is a winding valley, the fides of which are adorned with groves and clumps of trees, and the open fpace is broken by fingle trees, of various forms. Some ftatues are interfperfed. This valley was once flowed with water, but the fprings not fupplying a fuf- [ 26 ] a fufficient quantity, have been diverted, and it is now grafs. It has been obferved that there is a parti-^ cular moment w^hen this temple appears in fingular beauty : when the fetting fun fhines on the long colonade which faces the weft, all the lower parts of the building are darkehed by the neighbouring wood j the pillars rife at different heights out of the obfcurity : fome are nearly overfpread with it, fome are checquered with a variety of tints, and others are illuminated down to their bafes. The light is foftened off by the rotundity of the columns, but it fpreads in broad gleams on the wall within them, and pours full, and without interruption, on the entablature;^ diftindtly marking every dentil. On the ftatues which adorn the points of the pediment, a deep fhade is contrafted to fplendor : the rays of the fun linger on the fides of the temple long after the front is overcaft with the fober hue of evening, and they tip the upper branches of the trees, or glow in the openings between them, while the fhadows lengthen acrofs the valley. On the oppofite fide of this vale is the Jaddys Tempky on an elevated fpot, com- manding the diftant views. Below is a ftreaiTi,^ t 27 3 ^veam, over which is thrown a pkhi wooden bridge. On another eminence, di- vided from this by a great dip, ftands a large Gothic building, fitted in that tafte, and furnifhed with fome very good painted glafs. The temple of Frkndjhip is adorned with lelegant marble bufts of fome whofe friend-? fhip did real honor to the noble owner. The fcenes vyhich have been mentioned are the moft remarkable, but though beau- tiful, it mufl: be confelTed are inferior to the exquifite one which prefents itfelf from the Gothic building at Pains-hill, in Surrey ; or to feveral which are found at Mr. Souths cote s J in that neighbourhood. In point of buildings, Stowe is unrivalled. The num- ber of them has been objected i but the growth of the wood, by coacealing one from another, every day weakens the ob- jeclion, Each may be faid to belong to a diftindt fcene j and the magnificence and fplendor of them, joined to the elegance of their conftrudion, and blended with the variety and difpofition of the ground, will always enfure the admiration and pleafurc of the fpedator ^ Leaving ^ The reader will not be difpleafed If he fhould find that in this account of Stouue^ I have, made confiderable ufe of a defcrip- [ 28 ] Leaving SfowCy fome ftarved firs and pines, on each fide the road, fliew how much planters fhould attend to the manner of executing their work, and the choice of the kind of trees proper for the foil in which they are to be planted. Pafs by Finmore^ and another village, and come to Aynhoy where is the feat of Mr. Cartwright. Here was an hofpital built for the entertainment of poor and lick paf- fengers in the time of Hen. 2. by the Cla- verings (then called Roger Fitz Ric hardy and Robert Fitz Roger) who were lords of the manor. It was well endowed, and in 1484 was given by William Far I of Arundell (then owner of the manor) to Magdalene college y Oxfordy to which it ftill belongs ; but is now lett out as a private hoxxkK Ralph Nevilly of Rabyy who died in the beginning of E. 3, married the daughter of John de Claveringy and feems to have had this eftate with her, as he obtained a charter for a market and a fair at this place, but it was limited over to 'John de Claveringy in fee. Yet his fon Ralph died feized of the manor in 41 Edw. 3."' defcription given of it by one who was intimately acquainted with its beauties, the late Mr. Whateley, ^ Bridges^ s Northa?nptonJhire, v. I, p. 141* Dugd, Bar, V. I. p. 292, 295. At t 29 J At the entrance of Aynho you crofs the Portwayy one of the Vice vicinales leading from ftation to ftation ; it comes out of the Akemaii-Jlreety at Kirtlingtoriy in Oxford-- Jloirey and is fuppofed by Dr. P/ot to go to VennontSy or Cleycejiery but by Morton, to lead to Bennaventay or Wedon, near which place is a gate called Fort way -gate''. Ban^ bury, however, {Branavis) feems to be in its line of diredlion. At this end of the village, turning 011 the right hand, is the road to AJirop Wellsy which are about two miles off, a little be- yond the village of Kings Sutton (men- tioned before) in which parifh they are. The church has a fine fpire, rifing from a tower, the corners of which have been or- namented with pinnacles, but fome of them are broken off. The well is in a bottom, is a chalybeate, poffeffing great virtues in the flione, gravel, dropfy, and the begin- ning of a confumption ; and the place has been formerly much frequented, but is now out of fafhion. The lodging houfes are miferable. Near the fpring an allembly room was built by fubfcription fome years ago, and is ftill ufed for that purpofe in the fummer by the neighbouring gentry. Dr. Mcrtcn'^ Hift. of NQrthamptonJhirCy p. 502. Shof^t S/jorf fays, nature and art have combined to make this place a paradife of pleafure — doubt it will require a warm imagination to difcover in it any refemblance of what we fuppofe Paradife to be* Come into the turnpike road from Oxford to Bafibury^ at Adderbury^ where is a feat of the Duke of Buccleugh^ in a bad coun- try, and furrounded by execrable roads* It once belonged to the Earl of Rochejierj fo remarkable for the profligacy of the former part of his life, and for his fincere contri- tion at his death. Here are quarries of fl:one very full of cockles* Banbury^ the Branavis of the 'Romans^ whofe coins have been often found here, had a caftle built by Alexander^ Bifhop of Lincoln, in 1125; a fragment of one of its walls fupporting a cottage, ufed as a peft- houfe, is all that is left of it* Part of the ditch is now the high road* A Roman al- tar was found here, and placed in a nich under the fign of an inn, called horn thence the Altar-Jlone tnn\ Some years ago it was converted into a private houfe, and the altar was probably demolifhed. The church was (with more propriety) built by the fame bilhop, who is fuppofed to have « Stukeley^s Itin. cur. been • [ 31 ] been buried In the chancel, under a tomb on which is a mutilated figure, recumbent. The remnants of two other figures in the chancel, faid to be thofe of Judge Cham^ berlain and his wife, fliew the folly of fa-- naticifm in the laft century. The puritans were always numerous here ; Ben Johnfon makes one of thofe characters, Zeal-of-the-* land Bufyy a Banbury man ; and it is men- tioned in other dramatic pieces, as their re- fort. Camden fpeaks of it as famous for cakes and ale ; and when Holland tranflated his Britannia without his confent, played him a trick; getting at the printer, he changed cakes and aky into cakes and zealy which alteration got Holland many ene- mies ^ Round the wall on the outfide of the church are a number of carved heads of men and animals. The building being in great decay, was repaired in 1686, at the expence of 500/. by Dr. Fell, the munifi- cent dean of Chriji-churchy and bi£hop of Oxford^. The caftle was built, as before obferved, by Alexander y bifhop of Lincoln^ foon after his confecration, which was in 11 23; and it continued to be one of the refidences of P Gough^s Topog. V. I. p. 29, 57. ^ Willis's Cath. V. 3,. p. 43.5. the [ $^ ] the bifhops (occafionally, for they had ten houfes furniflied in the diocefe, befides one at Newark, and one pX London) till Bifhop Holbechj on his appointment, i Kdw. 6. conveyed this and about thirty manors, to the king and his courtiers. By the account of the endowment of this bifhoprick, taken 26 Hen. 8. 1534, the eftate here was valued as follows : /. s. d. Banbury burgh — — 141310 Banbury ballw. and hundred 444 Banbury pra3pofit Caftri — 52 14 8 The impropriation of the redlory and ad- vowfon of the vicarage of Banbury, be- longed to a prebend in Lincoln cathedral, called the Prebend of Banbury ; but in 1 548 it was furrendered to Sir John Thynne, and diffolved. The eftate w^as then reck- oned of the clear yearly value of 46/. 6s. Sd. and was afterwards given by Queen Eliza-^ heth to the bifhoprick of Oxford, in ex- change for other lands, being then valued at 49/. 1 8 J". ()d. 2l year'. After 'Edw. 4. had obtained poffeffion of the throne, an infurred:ion, which began in Torkjhire amongft the friends of the Earl of Warwick (who was then in France, in great ^ Willis's Cath. V. 3. p. 35, 140^ 141, 417. difgufl: [ 33 ] difguft at Edward's marriage) had very nearly deftroyed him. The leaders of it marched towards London, and were met near Banbury by the Earl of Pembroke and Lord Stafford. The latter entered the town firft, and took pofleffion of an inn, which the earl chofe to have for himfelf, and or- dered Stafford to quit ; Stafford was fo fmitten with the charms of a pretty bar maid whom he found here, that tho' forced to obey, he did it very unwillingly, and retired out of the town with his men in 2reat difcontent. Their enemies foon heard of the quarrel, and fell on PembNkes troops early in the morning. Henry Nevilly one of their leaders, was taken and killed in cold blood, which fo enraged the reft, that they fought with irrefiftible fury, and tak- ing the earl and his brothers prifoners, they revenged Nevill's death by inftantly behead- ing them here'. This place v/as made a borough by Queen Mary, in return for their adherence to her .againft Lady Jane Grey, and from that time they have fent one member to parliament". After the battle of Edge-hill, the parlia- ment had a garrifon of 800 foot and a troop of horfe in the caftle, which was furrendered ' Rfipin. V. I, p. 606, « H'illis's Notitia, v, 3. p. 41. D to [ 34 ] to the king in a few days after, and re- mained in his hands till he gave it up, with other garrifons, to the Scotch general. The navigable canal intended to be car- ried from Coventry to Oxford, is brought to this town, but is now at a fland for v/ant of money. About five miles from hence, in the road to Southam^ the canal is conveyed thro" a hill, by a tunnel three quarters of a mile in length, with a towing path on the fide for horfes ; it is an exaft circle, worked up with brick. There is a fulphur well here in the grounds of the Ram Inn, and a cha- lybeate, called Bloxhatn nev/ well, about a furlong from the town, on the vve(l fide^ almoft clofe to the brook Pafs by Wroxton Briary^ now a fe^t of the Earl of Guildford. It was founded by Mich. Belety an ecclefiaftick in the reign of King John, for canons of the order of St. Augiifin, valued in the furvey, 26 lien. 8. at 78/. i^^s. A^dk \ It was the eftate of Sir Thomas Pope, founder of Trinity college, Oxford, and by him given to that founda- tion ; of them it is held by the Earl of Guildford, and is ufed by him as a refidence^ bat whether there are any remains of the ^ Rapin, V. 2. p. 462. X Short, v. 2. p. 49. y Dugd. Mon. V, I. p. 1043, and v. 2. p. 326, religious { 35 ] religious hcufe, Ldo not know. A little further is Upton, a hunting feat of Mr. Childy the banker; and jull: beyond is the inn at Edge-hill. This hill is properly fo named, as, after paffing a level country, you come at once to the edge of a fteep hill, forming a natural terrace, fome miles in length. At the foot of this lies the Vale of Red Horfe, fo called from the colour of the earth, which is red, and from a rude figure of a horfe cut in the turf, on the fide of the hill, and kept fcoured out. The origin of this is uncertain. It is fmaller \ than the White Horfe, in Berks, not fo wejl leaped, nor fo confpicuous. The fcourifig is ufually performed on Palm-Stmday, the day on which the great Earl of Warwick fought the bloody battle of Towton, in y^orkpire, in 1461, when he killed his horfe before the engagement, determined to conquer or die. Mr. Wife conje6tures it may have reference to that circumftance. Some lands are held by the tenure of fcour- ing it. On the right hand of the inn, the hill extends about two miles ; and at the far- ther end where it dips. King Charles I. went down from Edgcoty and met the parliament forces, under the Earl of EffeXy which lay D 2 the the night before at Keyntoriy a town in the vale. Here was fought the firft battle^ when Cromwell is faid to have behaved in a manner far fhort of that courage which he afterwards exhibited j and when Prince Ruperty the king's nephew^ prevented, by his inconfiderate purfuit, the gaining a complete vidory. A pit, in which five hundred vidims of that day were buried, is marked by a few fmall firs. Skulls, and remnants of weapons, have been often found. Near this end of the hill, IVTr. Miller (whofe houfe, called Radway^ is below) has built a tower and ruins, to imitate thofe of a decayed caftle. The walk to this, along the edge of the hill, commands an ex- tenfive profped:, but which becomes ftill more extenfive from the rooni at the top oj^ the tower, to which you afcend by about fixty ffeps. The windows are ornamented with painted glafs, brought from different places ; amongfl which are the arms of * England, of the IJle of Many and of the Stanley Sy and fome' fcripture pieces. The cieling is painted with the arms of the Saxon kingly and of feveral gentlemen in the neighbourhood. From this room are feen Warwick Cajiky Coventry Spires^ the JVrekin [ 37 1 fFrekin in ShropJInrey and many other dif- tant objeds. Nearer loWarmington^ is a camp of about 12 acres, of a fquare form, but rounded at the corners^ which Mr- Salmofty in his New Survey^ contends to be the Roman ftation TripoMiumy mentioned in the 6th Iter of Antoninus. To make it agree with that, he fuppofes Alcejier to be Ifanavatia^ and Warwick y Bennones. He feems to af- fign good reafons for removing it froni Towcejiery wdiere Ca?nden fuppofed it. On the other fide the inn, at the diftance of about four miles, lies Compton Wynyate^ an old feat of the Eafl of Nortbamptony in whofe family it has been from at leaft the time of King John. The ride to it is on the fide of the hill, for about two miles; and then into the rich, but dirty, vale be- low. It is in a bottom, furrounded with hills, and is an irregular houfe, built by Sir William Comptony in the beginning of the reign of H. 8. with bricks brought from a ruinous old caftle at Fulbroke. The chimneys are formed in fpires and zigzags. Over the gateway^ in the entrance, are the arms of France and Fngldnd under a crown^ #ith the griffin and greyhound for fup-^ ^ V. 2. p. 497, 51a. D % porters. [ 38 ] porters, and on each lide a rofe under a crown ; probably placed here on account of a vifit made by the king, which is fur- ther remembered by the arms- of England empaling thofe of Arragoji^ found in Ibme of the windows, (in which alfo are the Compton arms and creft) and by a gilt bed- llead full of carving, faid to have been ufed by the king vi^hen here. In the late general wreck, when this, with other of the earl's houfes, was ftripped, and every thing fold by auction, this bedftead was bought by a farmer's wife for fix guineas. Unhappy efFed: of a rage for parliamentary influence and for gaming 1 Almoft equally deftrudive to the fortunes of the greateft families, the former is attended with the worft confequences to fociety. A conti- nued debauchery introduces a habit of idle- nefs, rarely got rid of ; a difregard and con- tempt of the moft facred oathS:, and a pro- fligacy of manners, which fit the unhappy wretches for the commifiion of every crime. Yet are thefe encouraged, without hefita- tion, by our nobility and men of fortune, often, as in the prefent inftance, to their own ruin. Strange infatuation ! that a man of education and refledtion, who would ftart at the commifiion of mofl: crimes, or eveor: C 39 ] k\-tn at the fappofition of his being capable of them, fliould, for the fake of a vote, fit on the bench an unconcerned fpedator of the illiterate wretch below, at his inftance, calling folemnly on the Almighty to atteft the truth of what the}^ both know to be a wilful and deliberate falfehood ! When this houfe was built, it is plain that the owner could not have a nngle idea of the beauty arifinj^ from a lituation com- manding either diflant, or home, views > indeed our anceftors appear to have fcarce ever thought of them. But it ftood in the middle of a noble eftate, and was fufficient for the purpofes of a hofpitality which did more real honor to the poffeffor, than the moft elegant modern feat^ v/here that is wanting. This houfe was held for Charles L and was befieged by Cromwell^ the marks of whofe bullets flill appear in the gates, and was at laft taken • The church (which has been re- built) was entirely ruined during the fiege^, and the family monuments deftroyed. Much has been written for and againft the utility of great farms \ but the argu- ment againfl them,- drawn from the confe- quent depopulation of the country, feems ftrongly enforced by an inftance in this D 4 neigh* i 40 ] neighbourhood. At Chadfimt was a man- jfion-houfe, the feat of Mr. New/am^, and ten farrn-houfes on fo many farnas, let all together at about 800/. a year. Not long fince this eflate was fold to Lord Gather-- lough I the ten farm-houfes are pulled down^ and all the lands and the manfion-houfe are Ictt at 1000/. a year to one farmer, who manages the bufmefs, as a grazier^ with the help of two or three fervants. This was told me by my intelligent land- lord at the inn^ who mentioned the fol- lowing rife of provifions in his memory ^ veal from to 4^. a pound; two fowls from iod. to 2s. pidgeons from 10 d. and 14^. a dozen to 3^. butter from 3^. and 4^. a ppund to yd. and gd. and cheefe from ijs. a hundred to 2^s. The monopoly of farmsj, however, is not the only caufe to which the rife of provifions may be affigned. This Lord Catherhiigh w^as fon of the fa- mous Mr. Knight y the cafhier and . plun- derer of the South-Sea company in the year of their calamity : his lordfliip built a tower in his grounds at Wottofi, near Henley^ in this county, and direded that his body fhould be buried there, and that thofe af his family who were buried in a vault, * A family deriving their origin from T wipU Ne^Mfamy in Torkjhire, but feated here from about the time of Hen, 8. fhould I 4t ] iliould be taken up and depofited in the fame place, which was done. Mr, Ladbroke has a feat at Idlecot^ bought by the late Sir Robert ^ of the heirs of Baron Legge. In this neighbourhood is dug a blue ftone, which becomes very hard, and is ufed for barn floors, ovens, &c. Leaving Edge-hill^ go thro' Pillerton and Edmgto?2y and turning on the right, thro' JVelleJbum and Barford^ to Warwick. It is fomething round to go by Edge-hill from Banbury to Warwick y but the road by Keyn-- ton is fo bad, that it would be worth the additional trouble, even if the profped; from Edge- hill was out of the queflion. From Edge-hill to Edington the road is tolerable ; from thence to Wellejbtirny very good ; and from thence to Warwick^ excellent. Warwick was a Roman ftation, called Frcefidiumy or, according to Salmon ^ Ben-^ nones^y and is lituate on the banks of the AvoUy and is a handfome^ well-built town^ rifen with additional beauty from the ruins of a great fire, which, in 1694, burnt great part of the town, and deftroyed the church as far as the choir. A coUedtion of 1 1,000 A was made by a brief, and Queen Anne added / V. 2. p, 497, J coo/- t 42 i f66oi with this they rebuilt the body oi the church and the fleeple in a very hand- fome manner, the tower alone cofting 1600/. This tower is 117 feet to the battlements, and 25 feet more to the top of the pin- nacles. Near the battlements the arms of the different Earls of IP^arw'Ick are cut in ilone. It was finifhed in 1704, as appears by an infcription on the tower. This church was founded before the Con- queft, and was made collegiate by Roger di^ Neubiirghy Earl of Warwicky xx\ 11 23, 23 !• Sir William Beaiichampy Lord Ber- gavenny, finifhed the ftately choir begun by his father, rebuilt the whole body of the: church, and was otherwife a munificent be- nefador to it. In this choir was at that time a ftatue of the famous Guy; but in 19 R. 2. 1395, one Siittoriy a carver, al- tered it, and cut on it the arms of the an- cient Earls of Warwick. Our lady's chapel was begun by the executors of Richard Beaiichampy Earl of Warwicky in 21 H. 6. and perfeded, 3 E. 4. This building, to- g^jther with the magnificent tomb for that earl (inferior to none in Englandy except that of H. J. in Wejlm-mjl^er Abbey) coft 2481/. 4J-. 7^i. a prodigious fum, if reck- ©ned by the value of money in thefe days. [ 43 ] Some giiefs as to the largenefs of it may be made from the comparative price of an ox, and a quarter of bread corn, the for- ^ mer being then i^s. 4^. the latter 3^*. This chapel fortunately efcaped the fire, and in it are the monurnxnts of Ambrofe Dud- ley ^ Earl of Warwick ; Robert Dudley y Earl of Leicejier, and of Robert, his fon. This collegiate church was diffolved, 37 jET. 8. and it was the fame year granted to the inhabitants of the town. The caftle, the ancient refidence of the earls of this name, flands on a rock, riling from the edge of the river Avon^ which falls in a cafcade under the window of the great hall. On the other fide the river is the park, but the ground being moflly fiat, and lying be- low the caftle, it does not appear to ad- vantage; the trees feem diminutive. By whom this pile was built, is doubtful j but the tower, called Guys tower, was the work of Thojnas Beauchampy Earl of Warwick, in the reign of Rich. 2. at the coft of 395A 5 J-. 2^. The walls are ten feet thick. From the E.auchamps, this eftate pafled by an heirefs in the reign of Hen. 6. to Richard Nevill (fon and heir of Richard Nevill, Earl of Salijbury) on whom that ^ Dugd, IVarn^v. v. I. 445, king t 44 ] king Gonferred the title of Earl of JVar^ *wick. This is the perfon who is called the ftout Earl of Warwick, and who had fo great a fhare in the confufions of thofe unhappy times, fometimes taking part with the houfe of Torky fometimes with that of hancajlevi and generally carrying fuccefs to the party vvhofe caufe he efpoufed* The entrance into the caftle is under a gateway, between Guys Tower on the right^^ which is 12 angled, and Ccefars on the left,- which is of three circular fegments, and this leads into the great court. In this court is a flight of fteps up to a magnifi- cent hall, 62 feet by 37^ wainfcoted with the original oak, but which was neceflarily painted, as on fitting up the room it was rendered of different colors by being planed; On the left of this are the private apart- ments ; on the right is a fuite of roomsj^ all looking over the river into the park, eonfifting of, a mufic-room ^ a noble draw- ing-room, wainfcoted with cedar; a room lately ufed for billiards, now fitted up as drawing-room; a ftate bed-chamber and a dreiling-room. This lafl is at the end of the caflle, and looks into the garden; in it are feveral fmall portraits, amongft which are thofe of Anna Bullen^ and her fifter;^ and C 45 ] and of Sir Thomas MorCy by Holbein ; Prince Rupert y and Prince Maiirice\n^ brother, in armour, three quarters length, in one piece ; Fra?2cisy Earl of Bedfo7^dy the firfl: Duke of Bedford^ and fome others. In the drawing- room are portraits of Prince Maurice^ Rich Earl of Warwick^ whole lengths ; and others, by Tandy ckj &c. And over the chimney is that of Mr, Wortley Montague ^ in his Turkijh habit, by Romney, The ori- ginal of Sir Philip Sydney is in the private apartments. Behind thefe rooms is a paf- fage w^hich leads to a neat chapel, in which is fome good painted glafs. Out of the hall is a dining-room, 42 feet by 25, and 18 high, built by the prefent lord in a fpace between the end of the chapel, and the flight of fteps from the great court. At the upper end of this room is a whole length portrait of Frederick^ late Prince of Wales ; and at the lower end one of his princefs, with the Princefs Augujia in her arms ; and over the chimney a whole length of Sir Fulk Grevilky Lord B?^ooke. In the porter's lodge they fhew feveral things which are faid to have belonged to the famous Guy^ Earl of Warwick ; fuch as his porridge-pot, his flefh-fork, his iron Shield, breaft-plate, and fword 3 his horfe's head- [ 46 3 head-piece, his walking-ftafF, (which is nine feet high, and which they tell you was only two inches higher than himfelf ) a rib of the dun cow, which he killed on Dunfmore-heath in this neighbourhood, and fome other things. Whether they ever be- longed to Guy or not, fome of them are of confiderable antiquity, and the fword was reputed to have been his fo long ago as the year 1400, when Thomas Beaiichamp, Earl of Warwick^ by his will, gave to his fon, and his heirs after him, the fword and coat of mail fometime belonging to the famous Guy^ and in i Hen. 8- that king granted the cuftody of this fword to one Hoggefoiiy yeoman of his buttery, with a fee of i id, per diem for that fervice**, which was con- tinued in Queen Elizabeth's time% James 1. granted this caftle to Sir Fulke Grevilky anceflor of the prefent Earl of War%mcky who laid out 20,000/. in re- pairing and embellifliing it. The epitaph on his tomb is no more than this ; Fulke Grevilkj fervant to Queen Elizabeth counfellor to King Jamesy and friend to Sir Philip Sydney.'' ^ Dugd, War. v. i. p. 403. lb. p. 428. ^ Peck's Defiderata Curiofa, b. 2. p. 18. Neaf 2 [ 47 ] Near the caflle, towards the north caft, was a place fenced wjth ftrong flone walls, called T^he Vineyard \ in 3 If. 4. by the bailiff's accounts, wages were given to fome women for gathering grapes there during the fpace of live days ^ Wliether this fruit was what we now underfland by the name of grapes, has been a fubjedl of much de- bate. The Priory here was begun by Henry de Neuburghj firft Earl of JVarwick, after the Conqueft, and finiflied by Earl Roger, his fpn. On the furvey, 26 Hen. 8, it was va- lued at no more than 10 L loj. 2d. above reprifes, and was diffolved the next yean, Jn 38 of that king it was granted to Thomas Hawkins J alias Fijhery who pulled down the old building to the ground, and built a very fair houfe, which he called Hawk's-neJL His fon fold it to Sir yohn Puckering, fince which it has paffed to the family of V/ife^, and ha§ regained its old name of the Priory.- — Stukeley fays, that two galleries, part of the original building, remain. About a mile and half beyond Warwick, in the road to Coventry, is a houfe of the late Mr. Greet head, built on the edge of a ^ Dugd, War^, V. I. p. 428. % Du^d, TVar'vj. v. i. p. 454. high. [ 48 ] high, perpendicular rock, at the foot of which flows the Avon^ in a bend round a meadow. This place is called Guys Cliffy from a tradition that he fpent the latter part of his life in retirement here, in a cave fcooped out of the rock, which is fhewn. It was anciently the refidence of fome her- mits, who had a fmall chapel ; a chauntry was afterwards founded by one of the Earls of Warwick^ and well endowed. It deferves the notice of antiquarians, if for jno other reafon, for having been the abode of the celebrated antiquary, yoJon Rous, who was one of {he chauntery priefts, and here wrote his Ghronicon de Regibus. Proceed to Kenllworthy a long, fcattering town, where the auguft ruins of the caftle afford the moft ftriking inftance of the in- ftability of human affairs ! This place, the abode of barons, little lefs powerful than kings ; which fo long refifted all the ftrength of Hen. 3. and which was at laft fubdued rather by ficknefs and famine, than by the fuperior force of the royal army ; whicli ftill retained its importance, and in the hands of Elizabeth's favorite, Leicejlery ex- ceeded moft of the royal habitations in mag- nificence ; and v/hich, from the thicknefs and ftruvfture of the w^alls, feemed to bid defiance [ 49 1 tiefiarice to ilme itfelf, is now only a pic- turefque heap of ruins ! Of the apartments, once graced with the prefence of that queen, and of her courts with all the fplen- dor which the princely owner could exhibit to entertain fuch a company^ nothing but fragments of the bare walls remain ! The Lake, which flowed more than loo acres, is vanifhed f The only habitable part, is a part of the gateway, filled with the family of a dirty> flovenly farmer^ in one of whofe chambers is an alabafter chimney-piece, with the letters R. L. carved thereon ; once the ornament of a far different apartments There was a caflle here before the Con« quefl, which was demoliihed in the time of Canute y but another was built by Geoffry de Clinton^ chamberlain and treafurer to H. r. thi^foon came into the hands of the crown* H. 3. granted it to Simm de Montforty Earl of Leicejier^ who held it againfl the king in the great infurredtion of the barons ; and, after he was killed in the battle of Evejhamy it was fo gallantly defended by Henry de HaJiingSy whom he had appointed governor, that the king could not get pof- feflion, till ficknefs and want of provifions compelled the garrifon to furrender. The E ting [ $0 ] king then gave it to his fon Edmund, Earl of Leicejler and La7KaJier. In the time of E. i. was held here an afTembly of loo knights, and as many la- dies, headed by Roger Mortimer. The knights entertained the ladies in the morn- ing with tilting and martial tournaments, and in the evening with dancing. It is mentioned as extraordinary, that on this oc- cafion the ladies were clad in filken mantles. Thev called^ themfelves of the Round Tac^/e, to avoid contention about precedency. In this place the unhappy Edw. 2. was kept prifoner, and here made the refignatioa of his crown (if it may be called a refigna- lion) to his fon, Edw. 3. By a daughter and heirefs of the Lan-- t after family, it pafled to 'John of Gaunt ^ fourth fon of Edw. 3. created Duke of j Lancajiery who, about the end of the reign of R. 2. began the ancient buildings now remaining, except Ccefars Tower. Henry, his fon, becoming king, it continued in the crown, till Queen Elizabeth granted it to Robert, Lord Dudley, Earl of Leicejler. Charmed with the fituation, he laid out I 60,000/. on the buildings, and in en- larging the park an amazing fum in thofe I days ! He gave a moft fplefidid entertain- J| 6- ment ■ [ 51 ] ment here to the queen and her court, at which v/ere introduced every amufement of the times; amongft them bear-baiting was not forgot^'* A regatta was exhibited on the lake. The ftory of this earl's concealed mar- riage, and of the confequent misfortunes of his noble and accomplifhed fon. Sir Robert Dudley^ are well known. After that moft iniquitous court, the Star Chamber y had ftifled the proceedings which Sir Robert had inftituted to prove his mo- ther's marriage, and his own legitimacy, he refolved to quit the kingdom; but, as ia thofe arbitrary days, he could not do it without the king's licence, [Jajnes I.) he applied for, and obtained it. His eftate however, mutilated as it was, was a tempt- ing bait 3 he was ordered to return, and not obeying the mandate, was profecuted in the Star Chamber^ and eafily found guilty, upon which this place was feized into the king's hands. The magnificence of the fituation becamp the object of Prince Henry s wifli. A propofal was made to purchafe it; commiHioners were fent to make a furvey, with fpecial diredions to find all things under their true worth. How Du^d, JVarnju. v. I. p. 236, Sc feq, E 2 well t well f hey obferved their orders, may be feen from their report of the value, which they made to be about 38,000/. tho' from their return it appears, that the caftle flood on feven acres of ground, was in perfect re- pair, fit to receive his majefty, the queen and prince, at one time; that the value of the woods amounted to 20,000/. and that the circuit of the callle, manors, parks, and chafe, lying round it, together contained 19 or 20 miles. Out of this 38,000/. 10,000/. was to be deducted as a fine for Sir Koberfs contempt in not appearing to the fummons; the wood (v/hich, tho' con- felfed worth 20,000/. they had valued at no more than 12,000/.) w^as alfo to be de- ducted, becaufe Sir Robert's lady had a jointure therein, and if (he outlived him, might fell it. After thefe defalcations, the prince moll generoufly offered to give for this eftate, the like of which for ftrength, flate and pleafure, they fay was not to be found in Englaizdj the fum of 14,500/.' Sir Robert knew too well what he had to expedt from the juflice of "James, or his courts, and having determined never to re- turn to E?7glandy agreed to accept that mo- ney* The conveyances were executed, tho' ^ Diigd, Bar* V. 2. p< 224. no f 53 1 no more than 3000/. was paid at the time, (and which, by the failure of the merchant who was to remit it, never came to his hands) and the prince dying foon after, he never received any part of the remainder,; and yet Prince Charles had no fcruple of confcience about taking polleffion, as heir to his brother; nay, in his patent (when king) creating Siv Roi^e?^i's mother Dutchef? of Dudley^ he recognizes the whole tranf- adion ^. Perhaps a Wronger proof of the inefli- mable bleflings of a government by law, and of a trial by jury, can hardly be found; and the abolition of fuch a court, feems cheaply purchafed by ail the misfortunes and temporary confufion occafioned by the ftruggles againft it in the time of this Charles. The hiftory of this family of Dudley^ affords m.atter for other rcfledions, E^- mund Dudley defcended, or claiming fo to be, from a younger fon of the Lords Dud- ley y became one of the great inftruments of Dugdr Bar. v. 2. p. 225. Some original letters relative to this matter, (one of which is figned by Prince Henry) are, now at the Board of Green Cloth, St. Jameses ; but tho' the failure in payment is To fully recognized by the letters pa- xt\Ky yet in an account of the prince's debts (now in that of-* lice) the money remaining due on this account is fta-led to be tio more than 3910/. with 227/, for charges. E 3 oppreffion [ 54 i oppreffion under which the people groaned in the time of Hen. 7. and was at laft given \ up to their refentments, together with Emp- fon, and executed. His eftate, however, was reflored to his fon, who getting into great favor with H. 8. and E. 6. was created Vifcount L'ljlcy Earl of Warwick^ and Duke of Northumberland. Infatiable in his ambition, he contrived to ruin the Duke of Somerfet and Lord Thomas, hia brother, uncles to E. 6. and marrying his fourth fon to Lady Jane Seymour, induced that prince to appoint her his fuccefTor j but here ended his career. Mary prevailing, he was beheaded. On Elizabeth's acceffion, the good fortune of the family feemed to return ; his eldeft fon was reftored to the titles of L'l/le and IFarwick, and his fe- cond fon made Earl of Letccjier\ but this funfliine was not of long continuance. The eldeft fon died without iffue, and Robert^ often in difgrace, and under ftrong fufpi- cions of the moft atrocious actions, died without leaving any child, except the un- fortunate Sir i?(?^^r/,abovementioned. Thus this family, rifing upon iniquity, and in the courfe of about 50 years attaining al- mod to royalty itfelf, in nearly as fhort a time fet in obfcurity. Whilft ■1 [ 55 ] Whllft this caftle was in the hands of the crown, there was a conftable appointed, with a fee of 16/. is. A^d. and a keeper of the park, with a fee of 4/. iij". n^d. a year'. Charles afterwards granted this caftle to the Earl of Monmouth ; but Oliver gave it to fevcral of his officers, who demolifhed the buildings, drained the great pool, cut down the woods, deftroyed the park and chace, and divided the lands into farms amongft themfelves. On the reftoration, Charles 2. granted ^ new leafe to the Earl of Mon?nouth's daugh- ters, and afterwards gave the inheritance to Lawrence^ Lord Hyde^ whom he created Baron of Kenilwortb, and Earl of Ra^ chcjlcr y from him it has defcended to the lady of Lord Hyde^ lately created Earl of Clarendo72y who has given diredlions that what remains of the buildings fnould be carefully preferved from further damage. Here was alfo a monaftery for black ca- nons of the order of St. Augiijiiny founded by Geoffry de Clinton when he built the caflle. At a furvey taken 26 H. 8. it was valued at 533/. i^s. 4^^. three years after it was furrendered, and the fite granted by th? king to Sir Andrew Flamoky whofe grand- daughter and heir carried it in marriage tq ^ Defid, Cur. b. 2. p. 18. E 4 yobn [ 56 ] John Colbouni, Efq. and he having bought fome horfes ftolen out of the EarJ of Lei^ cejiers ftable here (or pretended fo to be) was fo frightened by the earl^ that he vv^as glad to make his peace by giving it up to him on very eafy terms'". In this village is a manuf^dure of ivory and horn combs, and horn for lanthorns, in which about 32 men are employed, The farmers hereabouts begin to be fen- fible of the propriety of hpeing turnips^^ but cannot yet prevail on themfelves to do it thoroughly. Proceed to Coventry^ an old, ill-buil^' town. It was made a coporation in 18 £. 3. the walls round the town were begun ta be built in 29 E, 3. (1355) ^nd were de- molifhed after the civil war in the laft cen-- tury. The magnificent and beautiful church of St, Michael was founded about 1 133, and given to the monks of Coventry^ by Ra-- nulphy Earl of Chejier. The fleeple, as it now jftands, was begun in 1373, and fi« niflied in 1395, by William and Adam Eo- toner, who expended 100/. a year on it: the fpire was added by two fifters, Ann and Mary Botonery who alfo built the middle aile in 1434. The tower is 136 feet three inches high 3 on that is an octagonal prifm^ ^ Diigd. War. V, I. p. 257. 24,3. ' ' ■ ' of- [ 57 ] of 32 feet fix inches, fupported by eight fpringing arches ^ from the pinnacles withiu the battlements of the odagon ifiues a fpire, eight fquare, each of them eight feet at the bafe, 130 feet nine inches high, making the whole height 300 feet. The whole length qf the church is 293 feet nine inches, and the breadth, caqfifting of five ailes, 127 feet. The middle aiie is 50 feet high\ The Priory was founded by Earl Leofric in 1043, and ftood on a defcent below the church-yard of St, Michael and the Trinity (which two churches ftand very near to- gether in one inclofure) but is now totally deflroyed, with its church, tho' the bifhop pleaded ftrongly with Cromwell to have had the church preferved, alledging that it was his principal fee and head church. Willis^ in his hiftory of mitred abbies, printed in 1 71 8, fays, he thinks that Litchfield ca- thedral was built in imitation of this; that at the entrance into the clofe where this church flood, at the weft end, there was a large arch vv^hich led to it out of the oat- niarket, and which then lately fell down; that not far from thence was ftill ftanding the lower part of a great tower or fteeple, part of the weft front, then converted into * P^gd* J-Far-z^;, v, I. p. 240. a dwel« [ 58 ] a dvvelling-houfe ; that on the fouth fide, next the two church-yards, ftood a lefler tower, which had been demolifhed about 20 years before he wrote ; that the founda- tions of the church were dug up about 50 years before, and the fite turned into a bowHng alley, afterwards into a garden^ as it then was ; that the chief habitation of the monks was alfo turned into gardens, and that feveral apartments were fuppofed to be buried under ground, as appeared by the door-cafes then vifible at the end of the buildings next the river On the furvey of H. 8. it was valued at 731 /. 19/. 5^. but deducing pcnfions, at 499/. js. 4^. clear, and was furrendered in his 30th year. On digging foundations for houfes, they have found the old cloyflers, and fome other ruios, with many gravefl£)nes. Some years ago fome coffins were found, aniongft which were two, fuppofed to be thqfe of Leofric and Godiva^. Stone coffins have been often dug up (one in 1780) but without any in- fcriptions. Soon after the C9nqueft, Co.vejitryy Lich- fieldy and Cbejery were included in one diocefe y the feat w^as removed from Lich" ^ Mitred abbles, v. i, p. jo. ? Stukehy, Idn. Cur. v. 2, p. 18, 21. t 59 } Jield to Chejler, but Robert de Limefy ob- tained the cuftody of this monaftery, and removed from Chejler hither, when the name of abbot was fapprefl, and a prior had the rule under the bifliop, and fat in parliament ^ Many bifhops who refided here, ftiled themfelves of Coventry only i but afterwards an agreement was made, that this and Lichfield {ho\x\d choofe their bifhop alternately, and make one cl>apter, and pre- cedency in ftile fliould be given to Coventry, Liichjieldi however, feems to have now ob- tained the precedence, being generally named firft. The bifliop had formerly a palace at the fouth-eaft corner of the cathedral church, facing the north-eaft corner of St. Michael's church-yard. It has been long fince deflroyed, but in 1647 a mean I'^^^^^ in that place was fold by the name of the palace'. The Grey Friers^ or Friers Minons^ efcaped the difiblution of the lelTer houfes in 27 H. 8. (perhaps becaufe they had Ho lands) but was furrendered in the 30th year of his reign, and demoliflied, except the ^ On the iatrodu6lion of monks into a cathedral, the bifhop was looked upon in place of the abbot, and his fub^ flitute was termed a prior. ^ Stukelejy Itin. V. 2. p. %i. •fpire [ 6a ] fpire of their church .(built about the time of E. 3.) which now remains. The fite of the houfe was granted to the corporation. The White Friers hzd a houfe built for them by Sir John Poultney, (four times lord mayor oi London) in 16 jE. 3. 1342', but had no lands, and were not furrendered till H. 8.^ The houfe w^as granted to Sir Ralph Sadler, in 36 Hen. S, and foon after bought of him by Mr. Hales, who alfo purchafed of the king St, Johns hofpital and church, and divers lands belonging to the priory and other religious houfes here. He refided in the houfe of the White Friers, and maintained a fc^ool in the choir, of their church, (having obtained a licence to found a fghool) but fome of the magiftrates of the town finding that the church was not included in the patent, applied to Queen Mciry, and obtained licence to make it a parifli church y and obliged him to remove the fcholars, which he did to St, Johns hofpital. After this they difturbed him in poffeffion of the lands fo purchafed by him, qnder pretence of their being granted to \ y ^Lelandy v. 4. p. 97. ^ Dugd, War, v. 1. p. l8o, " Willis's, mitred abbies, v. i. ,p. 70. ^ The church was afterwards fold and pulled down, and the materials employed to build Mr. B ought on' s houfe at Qaujlo^j near Rugby, in this county, found 6 t 6' 3 found a fchool ; this treatment made him lay afide a defign which he had formed of eftablifliing a college in this city, like thofe at Wejlmiiijier and Ktoyt, He, however, kept up the fchool as long as he lived, and by his will in 15 left an. eftate of the then yearly value of 43/. to the mayor, bai- liffs and commonalty, to maintain it, al- loting to the mafter the manfion-houfe of the late mafter of St. Johns hofpital, and 2o/, a year^ to the uftier a houfe within that hofpital, and 10/. a year; an allow- ance for a mufic-mafter, and for repairs of the houfes, and the furplus to be for the maflier and ulher. This eftate is now im- proved to 15c/. a year, or more; and ia 1733, the mafter's ftipend was increafed to 50/. a year, the uflier's to 33/. 13J'. 4^^ What becomes of the furplus doos not ap- pear ^. The crofs, once fo famous, is now en- tirely deftroyed. It was built on the fpot w^here one had formerly ftood ; was begun in 1541, and finifhed in 1544, by a dona- tion of Sir William Holleys, lord mayor of Landariy fon of Thomas Holleys, of Stokcy near this city, anceftor of the Holies Sy earls of Cla?^e. It was fix fquare, each ^ Account of the charities given to Co^e/itrj', p. 72. fide t 62 j fide fcvcn feet at the bafe, dlminifhing in three ftories, 57 feet high. There were 18 niches furniflied with ftatues, fome of which Were brought from the White Friers. The pillars, pinnacles and arches, were en- riched with ftatuary carving, the afms of Knglandy of the founder^ and of the trades and companies ^ St. Mary Hall, on the fouth of St. Mi^ chaeVs church, was ufed by the feveral guilds for their feafts, and now for holding the afTizes, &c. Dugdale fays> it appears to have been built in the time of Hen. 6. A good deal of the painted glafs in the windov/s ftill remains, but much defaced by the ignorant glaziers, who in repairing it from time to time, have reverfed and mifplaced the arms, &c. Here is an an-^ cient wooden chair, faid to be that in which King Jo/on was crowned ; fome ar- mour, ufed in their yearly proceffion, in memory of Lady Godiva ; a pidlure of that fair lady on horfeback ; fome portraits of kings and queens, of Sir Thomas White^ Mr, Jejfony and fome other perfons. This Sir "Thomas White, in 1542, gave the corporation 1400/. which was laid out in the purchafe of lands, late parcel of the ^ Dugd. War* V. I. p. 142. priory. [ 63 ] priory, of the yearly value of 70/. and the fame were fettled on them in trufl, to give 24/. a year to 12 poor men, and to lend 40/, a year to induftrious young men of Coventry y to enable them to fet up in trade; after a period of 30 years, the towns of Northampton^ Leicejierj Nottingham^ and Warwick y were to have a fum of 40/. for the famepurpofe, in rotation. Thefe towns received the 40/- in their turns, but knew nothing of great improvements made in the eftate till about 1692, when it was acci-- dentally difcovered by the corporation quar- relling amongft themfelves about the di- vifion of it, and notice was given to the other towns by the bailiff of the eftate, and one who had been difmifled from the office of clerk of the council houfe. A bill in chancery was jfiled^ againft the cor- poration, but it was feveral years before they could get at the real ftate of the bu- linefs, or the true value of the lands. In 1705 they difcovered that the rents a- mounted to near 800/. a year, belides fines for renewals; but four years afterwards it was found, that the clear rents were about 930/. a year; and a decree was made ia 1710, that the corporation fliould account for more than 2000/. which they had re- ' ceived* t 64. ] ccivccl* Whilft this was carrying bh^ tlie corporation tampered with the other towns^ and made a private agreement with them to put an end to the fuit on receiving a fmall proportion of what was due ; but the ftory beginning to be known^ and it being found that the corporation lett long leafes to their own members and families at fmall rents^ feme public fpirited gentlemen filed an in- formation on behalf of the poor, to fet afide the agreement, and to have the en- creafed rents applied in augmentation of the original donations. This was done accor- dingly, and it was decreed^ that inftead of 24/. annually divided between 12 men^ 243/- 3 J", fhould be divided between 61 men, 4/, a piece to 60 of them, and 3/. 3 J*, to the odd one, and that eight men fhould each have a loan of 50/. The cor- poration did not rclifh this at all, and the 2000/* could not be got from them ; where- upon the court ordered tliat the eftate fliould be conveyed to the Hon. Williajn BfQ?nley^ Efq. and other gentlemen of the neighbour- hood, and a fequeftration iffued againft the corporation eftates (upwards of 700A per ann.) to levy the 2000/. The money w^as at laft raifed by fale of part of their eftates ; and then, in 1722, they applied to the court of [ 65 ] of chancery to have the truft eftates recon- veyed to them. This was oppofed by the new truftees, and by the towns of Nor-- thamptoriy Leicejiery and Warwick^ on the ground of the great abufes committed by the corporation, and that there were at that time feveral perfons amongft them who were concerned in the abufes, and others who were privy to them ; the chancellor, how- ever, in 1725, thought fit to order a re- conveyance, the feveral charities being aug- mented as by the former decree, and the cor- poration are now in poffeffion of the eftate. Befides this. Sir Thomas White gave the town a further fum, to pay 40/. a year to two fellows of St. 'Johiis college, in O.v- fordy fons of freemen of this city ; which college had been founded by him, or rather refounded, after being quite gone to decay on its original foundation, by archbilhop Chichele. This man of charity gave a further fuin^ of 100/. a year to 24 other towns in Eng-- landy to be received in rotation, and lent to induftrious young men, to affifl them in their fetting out in the world This was a mode of charity much in failuon in thofe days, and in the beginning of the next cen-- ^ Ip/^vich charities. F tury 3 [ 66 ] tury ; highly benevolent in its intention, it affifted the deferving and ufeful members of the commanityin thatpartof their lives when affiftance w^ould be moft ferviceable 5 and laying a foundation on which many ample fortunes have been built, it enabled them in their turns to exercife a benevolence which would be naturally excited by a recollection of that to which they owed their ability. In thefe days, however, it is too liable (in bo- rough towns efpecially) to great abufes. Mr, JeJJorij above mentioned, gave the town 2000/. with which an eftate in GIgu-- cejierfhire was bought, the rents of which are to be applied in putting out apprentices, diftributing bread, &c. and to lend 20/. a year to poor tradefmen. There are other charities to a large amount. In 1768 an ad of parliament was pafled for making a navigable canal from hence to communicate with that which w^as carrying on to join the ^rent and the Merfey^ and the next year another a£t was paffed to make a canal from hence to Oxford. Thefe were noble undertakings, which promifed to be of the greatefl: fervice to the country ; but ufeful as they were, they met with violent oppoiition. Amongft the ob- jedions to the latter, it was urged in the Houfe t 6; ] Moufe of Commons, that it would injure the Newcajile coal trade^ that great nurfery of feamen, on which our naval ftrength fo much depends^ by enabling Oxford and the jieighbourhood to buy pit-coal cheaper than they could do fea-coal \ fo far will people go for an argument to anfwer a prefent purpofe ! Private intereft, and perhaps private pique, unfortunately contributed to impede the work. The fubfcribers to the two canals could not agree on the place where they ihould join, and they are carried on in nearly a parallel line for a confiderable length ; this has contributed to exhauft their money^ without any ufe* The for-^ mer is carried no farther than about Ather^ ftoney and feems at a ftand ; the latter has reached Banbury^ as mentioned before, but the expence has already fo greatly exceeded the eflimate for the whole, that it is feared it will not foon be eompleated. Its being cai'ried clofe to the town of Banbury^ is faid to have been attended with a great ad- ditional coft, which would have been much XDore ufefully employed in extending it far- ther. It is alfo faid that it fhould have commenced at another place, nearer Bir- mingham^ where much better coals would have been got. The cofl has been more F a tha;i [ 68 ] -than 200,000/. of which 150,000/. was fubfcribed, 50,000/. borrowed fince, and a debt of fome thoufands outftanding. Near Bedworth is a coal-mine of Sir Ro- ger Newdigate (whofe feat is not far off), from which he has made a cut to commu- nicate with the navigation. He has here a wheel of 36 feet diameter, which throws out the water and draws up the coals at the fame time. In the coal-mines here it is faid, that large toads have been often found in the folid coal\ Come to Nuneaton, a town fo named from a nunnery of the order of Fonfev^ rank (in FoiSliers) founded by Robert Bojfu, Earl of Leicejlerj before 1161. In the houfes of this order beyond fea, there were religious men as well as women, but fub- jeil to the government of the abbefs or priorefs. This petticoat government feems to have been difliked in Englandy as there were only two more houfes of this order in the kingdom, and there is no exprefs ac- count of any monk in any of them, but only of a prior at Nuneaton\ The earl's wife became a nun, and died here. By the furvey, 26 H. 8. it was valued at ^ Idn. Cur. v. 2. p. 19. ^ Burn's Eccl. Law, v. 2. p. 54. 290/. C 69 ] 290/. 15^^.1 ^^nd was farrendered in the 31 of that king, and granted to Sir Marmaduke Conjiabky who is buried in the church under a monument which was once a hand- fome one, but is now much defaced. In a field at the end of the town, going towards Atherjlofie (on the left) are fome remains of the nunnery; one arch is yet Handing, but nothing more than the hewn ftone is left at the top, and there are fome fragments of walls. One arch lately fell down. I did not take the direft road to Hinckley ^ but went towards Ather'Jloney in order to ^ vifit Mancetery a coniiderable Roman fta- tion. The village is about three miles from Nuneaton ; in the way to it pafs over a hill, from the top of which is a good profpedl. The church ftands on an eminence, which Dr. Stukeley fays, feems to have been a camp, having been intrenched very deeply. Near it is a neat hofpital. On the left of the church is Oldbiiry^ a large fquare fort of 30 acres, on a high hill, from whence is a very extenfive view. Flint axes of the Britons y about four inches and an half broad, have been found near this place. Mr. Okeover has a feat here, which he is rebuilding, in the area of the camp. The old houfe was a cell to the nunnery of ^ Dugd, IVar^v. v. 2. p. 1 066. F 3 Pokf^ [ 7^ j Pole/worth. Other camps, called Shug-^ huryy Arbury^ and Borough^ are feen from hence % When you have palled thro' the turnpike, a little lane on the right leads down into the JVatling'Jireet^ where, taking the right again, you crofs the river Anker (in its way from Nuneaton to 'Tamworth) and pre- fently afterwards go thro' the old Roman city, which lies on both lides the road, partly in LeiceJhrJJjire^ partly in Warwick-- jhire. The field in the former is called Oldfield-banksy in the latter, Cajlle-banks.. It is 600 feet long, 200 broad on each fide the road. Great (lones, mortar, Roman bricks, iron, and many coins of brafs and filver, and fome of gold, have been dug up here ^ A bridge was building over the river when I was there ^ Continue on the Watltng-jlreet till near Hinckley J when you come into the turnpike road, which leads directly from Nuneaton thither, liinckley is a market town juft v/ithin the borders of LeiceJlerJIjirCy formerly diftin- guilhed by a callle, a large park, and a priory ; now by the more humble, but much more ufeful employment of the flocking-frame, of which about looo ajre ^ Itin. pur. V, 2. p, 20. ^ Jbid, s 1779. h?re f 71 ] here employed. The caftle was built by Hugh de GrantmefniU who came into Kng-- land with W^illiarn L it flood near the eaft end of the church, but has long been en- tirely demolilhed. A good modern houfe, belonging to Mr. Hurjl^ is built on part of the fite. The park has been difparked many years. In 1755, in a field near the Holy-well^ fix nobles of gold of Edw. 3. were found, two of which are in the hands of Mr. Whalley^ of Hinckley. The office of fi:eward of England was given to this Hugh on his marriage, and made an hereditary office. It defcended from him to his grandfon Hugh^ who held the honor of Hinckley by tl}at fervice^. His grandfon died, leaving two daughters only, the eidefl of whom married Robert Blanchmains\ Earl of Leicejler^ and carried * ^ Cafe of Lady Willaughhy , of Erejly^ claiming the office of great chamberlain. ^ Mr. Nichols, in his hiilory Hinckley , p. 9, gives an in- genious and probable' folution of the origin of this nick- name of Blanchnaifis \ he fnppofes it might be derived from the white fcurf of the leprofy, then a very common difeafe, rather than from tlie beauty of his hands, efpecialJy as his fon Willia?n was fo infected with that malady that founded an hofpital for it in Leice/ler, the common feal of which hofpital was lately found at Saffron ?FaUeyi, in Effex, I fhould add, that if the name was given on account of the delicate colour of his hands, it was probably given in ridi- cule of what in thofe days of hardihood would be confidered as an effeminacy ; but effeminacy was not his character. F 4 this [ 72 3 this eftate to him. His fon left two lifters, his coheirs, one of whom married the great Simon de Montforty who was created Earl of Leicejler in 1206, and poffcfled this honor and high ftewardiChip. He taking part with the French againft King 'John, was ftripped of his honors and eftate ; the latter were given to Randolph y Earl of Chefier, but the king retained the high ftewardfhip i nor would Hen. 3. reftore that when he gave back his other honors and eftates to his fon. The- firft Hugh de Grant mejhil founded here a priory of canons aliens, belonging to the abbey of Lira, in Normandy^}, this houfe was fupprefled by Hen. 5. amongft many other alien priories ^ A houfe called the Priory, or the Hall, on the fouth fide of the church-yard, ftands on the fite of it; what is now converted into feveral rooms, is in memory to have been one large hall. The centre was rebuilt in the year 171 5> by Mr. Gerard, then owner, but the wings are of much older date. The garden is now made into a bowling-green. On a mantle-piece in the kitchen is a ftrange ornament in a kind of baked clay^ which tradition has erroneoufly called the arms of three monks;'' but a fecond, NicholU^s Hinckley, p. 9. ^ Bitrton^s Leicefiery p. 123. with t 73 ] with more probability, calls them the fign!5 of three houfes, the Eagle and Child, the Rofe, and BulFs Head, which were defigned for the relief of pilgrims travelling through Hinckley^ who were to receive a night's lodg- ing, and fomething the next morning to help them forward on their journey The priory poffelled about 214 acres of land here ; and not many years ago, on a trial about tythe, a monk from the abbey of Lira was brought over, and produced the original grant. This land and the church were given by Hen, 8. to the dean and chapter of Wefi-' minjler, who are the prefent owners. About five miles from Hinckley the bat- tle was fought which placed the crown on the head of Hen. 7, and w4iich is com- tnonly called the battle of Bofworth, but Sutton-Jield was the fcene of it. Sir Regi- nald Bray J indefatigable in the fervice of the Earl of Richmond^ is faid to have found Richard's crown in a thorn buih, the me- mory of which was preferved by a painting on glafs in his houfe at Steane \n Nortbamp" ionjhire^ which remained when Mr. Bridges colleded the notes for his hiflory of that county, if it is not ftill there. In his arms was added a thorn, with a crow^i in the middle". The name of Crown-hilly which Nicholses Hiflory cf Hinckley i p. 33/ ^ Bridges' s Northampto?ij'hire , p. 197, a place [ 74 ] a place in the field ftill retains, feems to refer to this ftory ; though commonly faid to be the fpot from which the earl ha- rangued his army, there is more probability that it got its name from this circumftance. Senfible of the fervices, and of the abi- lities of Sir Reginald, Henry beftowed on him high honours and employments, and Steane was one of the eftates with which that king very munificently rewarded an attachment which continued unaltered to the time of his death. It will be allowed me to repeat with pleafure, that in this fituation, and in a reign the favourites of which are not geT nerally well fpoken of, his integrity pro- cured him from hiftorians the charadler of, a very father of his country, a fervent lover of juftice, and one who would often admonifh the king when he did any thing contrary to right Nor is it lefs to his honour, that notwithftanding he took a li-- berty fo feldom allowed, he never loft the favour of the king during the 17 years of his reign in v/hich he lived. In Stokejield, between Hinckley and Suiton^ money has been lately found, fupppfed to have belonged to fome who fell in that bat- tle. The coins were fojd to Mr, Wardeny a mercer at Nuneaton. * A more particular account of Sir Reginald \% in the fe- cpnd vol. of the new edition of the Bicgra^hia Britannica, A srea£ [ 75 1 A great variety of curious foffils and pe- trifadions have been found of late in a gravel-pit, about a mile froni the town, in the road to Derby. Mr. V/ells^ of Biir-^ hachy and Mr. "John Robinfon^ of Hinckley^ have formed collection s of them. Near the town is a ipot from whence 5Q churches may be counted ^ Leicejierjhtre has not many gentlemen's houfes of note in it, and not many matters of curiofity, but has much rich pafture, and feeds great numbers of cattle and fheep. Go thro' EarTs Sbilton, on the left of which is the feat of Lord Vifcount Went-- worthy and afterwards pafs by Tooley Park,, in Leland's time belonging to the king% lately purcbafed of Mr- Boothby by Mr^ A little before coming to Leicejiery crofs the Roman fofs way, and on the left of the bridge, at the entrance of the town, fee the arch over the river, which Richard 3. pafled in his way to Bofworth. It is entire, but is not now ufed, a wall being built acrpfs one end of it'. « Leicejier is a place of great extent, be- ing near a mile fquare, but the entrancq P Hidory of Hinckley, p. 66. ^ Itln. v. I. p. 17. A view of it is engraved in Peck's Defid, Curiofa. from r 76 1 from every quarter is difgraced by dirty mud walls. The market place, however, is large and fpacious, with a handfome building in it belonging to the corporation, where they have their feafts, and where mufic meetings and affemblies are held. The town hall is mean, and in an obfcure fituation. It is a very old town, where Camdeji fixes the Katce Coritanoriim of the Romans^ of whom there are many traces found here. The old building, called Jewry JVallj at the weft end of St. Nicholas church-yard, is fuppofed by Mr. Burton^ to be part of a temple of Janus ; this opinion has been controverted, tho' the antiquity is not quef- tioned, and the number of bones of oxen dug up here, feem plainly to fliew that it has been a place of ficrifice. The com- mon name given to it, from the finding thofe bones, is Holy Bones. The length of it is about 28 yards, the height about nine ; it is built of layers of rough foreft ftone, and brick or tile, the bricks of va- rious fizes ; fome have been found to be i8 inches long, 15 broad, and two thick, the mortar between the bricks as thick as the bricks themfelves ; 17 ftrata of thefe have been counted on the fide next the church, 13 on the other fide. Near the middle^ [ 77 ] middle, at five yards diftance from each other, are two arches, which ferved for entrances, each about three yards wide, four and an half high. There are feveral holes in the wall in different ftrata, about fix inches fquare, and fome higher up, which are as large again, and go quite thro^ the wall. On the infide are four arches, the two largeft in the middle, in part anfwering the two on the outfide. In the column between thefe two, appears the remainder of an arch work, which feems to be made for reverberating heat, and in all the infide the blacknefs of the fl:ones and bricks gives plain indication of fire and fmoke. In the arch on the fouth fide, a fmall tenement has been built, Mr. T^hrojhy fays, this and the fecond and fourth arches are 13 feet high, 12 wide; the middle one four feet over; the fifth is 12 feet by fix St. Nicholas's church is a very ajicient one, and has had fome of the materials of this old building employed in it, rows of Roman brick being very vifible. The walls are of great thicknefs. Several Roman coins in filver and copper, of Vefpajian, Domitiany "Trajan, Hadriany * ThroJbyU Lekejln. V, I. p. 47* Antoniney t 7^ ] Antomne^ and others, have been founds A MoTaic pavement was difcovered a few years ago on repairing a houfe (where now is a bath) near Richards Bridge y but it was broken to pieces. That which reprefents the flory of Diana and ASleon had better fortune, being carefully preferved^ and now entire in a cellar of Mr. WorthingtoUy in Northgate-Jireet . The town was nearly deftroyed by Hen. 2. v/hen he took it from Robert Blanchmains ^ who joined Prince Henry in his rebellion again ft his father. The plan of the tov/n, as it ftood before this demolition, (fays Mr. Nichols, from a MS. of Mr. Lud-- lam) is eafily to be traced. In the heart of the town, on each fide the principal Hreet, are a number of large orchards, feparated not with one common fence, as ufual, but a double fence ; a wdl belonging to each^ with public v/ays between the two walls^ called Back-lanes. Thefe lanes were ma- nifeftly the ftfeets, and the orchards the fite of houfes and yards deftroyed and never fince rebuilt. The traces of the town wall and ditch are in many places plainly to be feen. Dr. Sukeleys plan of Roman heicejier^ is fuppofed to be a mere figment. ^ Burton, p. There C 79 ] There are veftlges of two Roman works, and no more ; the mount near the river, as was their cuflom, and the ruins of a bath near St, Nicholas s church. Two teffelated pave- ments have been found there, the lateft and largeft about 1750"/' There was a bifliop of Leicejier for about two centuries, viz. from about 679 to 885, when the fee was tranflated to Dofxhejler^ in Oxfordpdire. The epifcopal fee was in St. Margaret's pariih, the impropriation and advowfon of which parifli now form one of the prebendaries in the church of Lincoln Befides St. Nicholas's, there are now three other churches, and it is faid there were formerly five more. Of thefe, St. Peter was taken dov. n in the time of Queen zabethy the parifh being fmall, and infuffi- cient to maintain it, and it was united tp All Saints. St. Leonard's had been rebuilt a little before the civil war, in the time of Charles I. and was taken down when the town was garrifoned, to prevent its being ufeful to the enemy ^. Robert de Bellomont, Earl of Leicejler^ founded a collegiate church near the caftlCj, ^ Hiflory of Hinckley^ p. lo. ^ Willises Cath. V. 3. p. 43, 20f ^, y Throjhy^ V. 4. p, S9. and [ 8o J and dedicated it to our lady, placing in it a dean and canons ^ It feems to have been refounded, or rebuilt, and the endowment much enlarged by Henryy Duke of Lan- cafler^ who eftablifhed in it a dean, 12 pre- bends, 12 chorifters, and other fervants^ To this church he prefented, as an inefti- mable relic, one of the thorns of our Sa- viour's crown, which had been given him by the King of France^ and which was preferved in a ftand of pure gold^ This building, which was very magnificent, flood in the Newark^ where Mr, Colmans garden now is, and was deftroyed at the diflblution. Three of the houfes belonging to the chaun- try priefts remain ; one of them was pur- chafed within this century, for the vicar of St, Mary s J near the caftle \ The fame Duke Henry ^ in 1330, began the hofpital adjoining to his church ^ but did not live to complete the buildings, as appears by letters patent of Hen. 4. in the firft year of his reign, who recites, that Henryy Duke of Lancajlery his grandfather, had begun to build this church, and certain houfes, walls and edifices for the inclofing of the church and college, and the habita- ^ Dudg. Bar. v, i. p. 84. ^ Dugd. Mon. v. 2. p. 468. ^ Dugd. Bar. v. i. p. 84. <^ Tkrojhy^ v. I. p. 141. *^ Dtigd. Mon. V, 2. p. 468, tion tion of the canons, clerks, and poor people there living; and that Join, Duke of Lan-- ca/ier, his father, had defired to complete the fame, and that he was hinifelf defirous of haftening the works, that he might have a fhare in the merits ; he therefore affigns certain perfons to provide v/orkmen and materials for the doing thereof % He pro- vided for ICQ poor and weak men and wo- men, and ten able women to ferve and af- fift the fick and weak. A few years ago this was a long, low building, of one ftory, covered with lead, in which were a range of places about the fize of the pews of a church, and not much higher, covered at the top w^ith a few old boards. Each of thefe was juft large enough to hold fome- thing like a bed, and one chair, and was the habitation of a miferable pauper, who received 7^. a week in money. This, with the charity-box, opened once a year, and a fmall furplus of rent, amounting to a few fliillings a piece, was all they received. On one fide of the room was a common fire place for the men, on the other for the women; and there was a common kitchen, in which was a large pot, which they fhewed as that of Jo/jn of G^bent. A room ® Diigd, Mon. V. 3. P. .J39. G inha- [ 482 ] inhabited by the nurfes, was a little more decent, and they had a lodging rooai over it. The eaft end of the building was a chapel, in which was the following in- fcription ; Henry Grifmond\ Duke of Lancafier^ and Earl of Leicejier. He was founder of this hofpitai in the year *^ of our Lord 1332, and iince granted by charter, by our late gracious fovereign King Ja?72es^ to be called the Holy Tri-- itityy in the 12th year of his reign/* ^ The building being gone to great decay, the rain getting in, and rendering feveral of the boxes uninhabitable, his majefty gave a fum of money out of his privy purfe for rebuilding it, which Vv^as done in 1776, but not in a manner fuitable to his majefty's generous intentions. He augmented the income w^ith 14/, a year, and 54 men and 36 women now receive a weekly ilipend of 2^. I di. each. In the church-yard of St. Martin is ano- ther hofpitai, built on the fam^e plan, but on a larger fcale, the habitations being to- lerably comfortable. It was founded by Sir Williarn V/igeJiony about the time of H. 6. for a mafter, con-frater, 12 poor men, and 12 poor women. The con-frater ^ Gr'/fmond a lordrhip in Monmotith/hire whvok. belonged :o him, bat why added to his name here I do not know. has [ 83 ] has a neat houfe adjoining, and reads prayers ; the poor men and women have each an apartment, and three /hillings a week. The mafter, who never reiides, has^ a falary of 200/. a year, and the benefit of renewing the leafes of a very confiderable ellate, which is reckoned worth 300/. a year more. Can he reflect on the fituation of the paupers, and think the intention of the charitable founder is anfwered ? ^ Adjoining to this is a fmali public li- brary for the minifters and fcholars of the town. In Northgate-JIf^eef is an ancient hofpital for poor women, where,, within a fmall porch, is a circular arch, with a zigzag or- nament round it. A handfome infirmary has been built in 1771 at one extremity of the town, and is fupported by fubfcription. In digging the foundations, many human bones were found, fuppofed to be thofe of perfons buried in a chapel called St. SepidchreSy which had been deftroyed long before. I s ?vlr. Throjby, in his account of Leicefier, fays, he is in- formed the revenue is not fo large; it will not, however^ be denied, that it is confiderable, that the mailer does nor re- f.de or do any duty, and that the poor are very Henderly provided for according to the prefent value of money. G 2 . In [ 84 J In St, Margaret's church is an alabafter monument for John Penney, once abbot of the abbey here^ afterwards Bifhop of Car- lijle, in 1509. There is a whole length fi- gure of him in his epifcopal habit. In St. Martin s church is an epitaph for Mr. yolm Heyrick, who died 2 April 1589, aged j6y expreffing that he lived in one lioufe with Mary his wife, 52 years, and in all that time never buried either man, wo- man, or child, tho' he had fometimes 20 in family. His wife lived to be 97 years old, and faw of her children, grand-children, and great grand-children, to the number of 143 There is very little left of the caftle, ex- cept the hall, now ufed for holding the af- fizes 3 near it is a large vault, which they call ^ In the former edition I had mentioned another inftance of longevity and remarkable vigour in this neighbourhood, from the regifter of Keyniy or Keha??i, a few miles from hence ; the book is in the hand-w i ing of Mr. Thomas Sam/on the jiuniller, and ligned by him from 1563 till near the time of his death in 1655. By this regifler it appears that he had eight children, born as follows, viz. 1. Joyce, baptized Febrtiary 12, 1630, 2. Anny baptized May 6, 1632. 3. Ednjjardy baptized February 6, 1633. 4. Francis, baptized Odober 11, 1635, 5. Thomas y baptized No'ije?nber I, 1637. 6. Johuy baptized December 15, 1639. 7. Siifannahj baptized July 25, 1641. 8. Elizabeth, baptized Odobcr 20, 1644. As [ 85 ] call ^john of GJoenfs cellar. He and the other Dukes of Lancajier^ refided much here whilfl: they were owners of it. In a houfe inhabited by Mr, yobn Ste-- vensy is a fpacious room, lighted by a win- dow, which is continued from one end to the other, and in which are 28 pieces of painted As he could not ferve the cure before he was 22, the compu- tation was, that he had ferved it at the birth of his I ft child at lealt 67 years, and was then aged 89 2d 69 91 3d 70 — — 92 4th 72 94 5th ~ 74 96 6th 76 98 7th ^- 78 100 8th 81 103 Mr. Samfcn was buried Auguji 4, 1655, and it feemed that he was then at leail 114 years old, and had been mi- nifter of Keyfn 92 years. This I had inferted from an account 1 faw of it ; but de- firous of examining into fo extraordinary a ftory myfelf, I have fince been at Keham and feen the regiiler. It is very true that it is figned by Mr. Saj?i/cny as minifter, every year from 1563 to 1655, or thereabouts; but on infpedion it appears, that from 1563 to about 1633, is nothing more than a tranfcript made by Mr. Sam/on from a former re- giiler, and atteikd by him at the bottom of each page by figning his name as miniiler, omitting to date his atteftation. A circumftance corroborates this ; he has added the names of his two churchwardens after his own, which are the fame for the firll 70 years, a thing which would be not much lefs marvellous than his own age. It may be further obferved, that after 1633 (or thereabouts, for I do not recoiled the exad year) there appears to be diilerent churchwardens every year. G 3 glafs. [ 86 3 glafs^j fome of faints, others of part of our Savior's hiftory, others the feven facraments of the Romijh church, Mr, Throjby con- jedlures it to have been a chauntry belong- ing to Corpus Chrijii, or St. George s guild. There were in the town three priories, and one houfe for religious of the order of St, Francis \ The abbey of St. Mary de F rat is (fo named from its being fituate in the mea- dows near Leicejler) was founded by Robert de Bellamonty furnamed Bojjuj Earl of Lei- cejler, in 1 143, for canons of the order of St. Aiigujiin. He at length took on him the habit, and continued there 15 years. The abbots ufed to fit in parliament 3 but in the middle of the 14th century, an ex- emption was obtained, as from a burthen. Very difi^erent from the opinion of the pre- fent times ! At this abbey Cardinal TVolfey died in his way to Londoiiy having been ar- refted on a charge of high treafon ^ the fpot of his interment has been often fearched for, under an idea that great riches were buried w^ith him, bat it has never been difcovered. On the diffolution, it was granted to Mr. Cavendifn, the faithful fervant of the car- dinal j in Qiieen Elizabeth's time it was ^ Willis's Mitred Jthies^ v. 2. p. 1 1 3. [ 87 ] j3oirellcd by the Eari of Huntingdon, but was afterwards in the CavendiJJj family again^ the Countefs of Devoitjlnre refiding there before the civil war, in which it v/as burnt by the royalifts, and little left but the walls round the garden, part of the gateway, and porter's lodge. What re- mains of fome rooms is of later date. The prefent Duke of Devonfmres grandfather transferred it to Lord JViUiam Manners^ from whom it has come to the prefent owner, Mr. "John Manners. ' Gilbert FoUotj the faithful friend of Hen. 2. (who was never to be terrified from his allegiance by the threats or power of Becket) and Henry de Knightony the hif- torian, were abbots here. About half a mile fouth of the town, near the v^ay to ElJJon, by the fide of the race-ground, is a long ditch, called Raw-- dikesy which Stukeley calls a Britijh Ciirjus. It is faid Charles I. fiood on thefe banks whillT: his men took and pillaged Leicejler^, Camden fpeaks v/ith fome degree of un- certainty as to Leicejler being the Roman ftation Ratce ^, Salmon totally denies it^; and Horfeley affirms it""': but in 1773 a ^ Itzn,Y. I. p. 109. I Ni^ Survey, v. I. p. 316. ^ j^rit, Rom, p. 437. G 4 milliary [ 88 ] milliary ftone was difcovered, which fixes it. About two miles from Leice/iery on the fofle way, which goes to Ne%vark (and which is now part of the turnpike road to Melton Mowbray) there was a kind of ftepping block, little noticed ; on rerqoving the earth from the foot of it, was difco-^ vered a ftone, to which it had doubtlefs ferved as a pedeftal, on which was the fol- lowing infcription; IMP CA^S For AS COS ; H v\ Ratis H This ftone is two feet lo inches long, five feet five inches and an half in circum- ference ; it is of a^gritty fort, fuppofed by mafons to be from a Derbyjhire quarry. The letters in the upper line are four inches long, in the others but three. The fecond and third lines feem to have been continued further, fome traces of letters being vifible on the back part. The tWQ ftrokes at the bottom probably denote the diftance from Rat^y with v^^hich it agrees. Two [ 89 ] Two or three miles from Leicejier^ on the left, fome woods and a windmill on a hill, mark an old feat of the Greys^ called Brad-- gate, built by Thomas Grey^ Marquis of Dorfet^'y and inhabited by that family till it was accidentally burnt down fome years ago ; but the park, fix miles in compafs, remains. It was the birth place of the ac- complifhed, but unfortunate. Lady Jane Grey. Near it is Groby^ from which the family took a title j there was formerly a eaftle, which was deftroyed entirely before Leland's time. The above-mentioned T^ho^ mas begun to build a houfe there, but did not finifh it". About live miles from Leiceftery on the left, is Temple Rotheleyy or Rotherby^ granted by King Stephen to Randolph, Earl of Chef- ter^. It was afterwards a houfe of the knights templars, from which it takes its name, but has been for a confiderable time the feat of the Babingtons ; fome of the lands are extraparochial. There are no monuments of any of the templars in the church, but there are fome old ones for the Kyngjions, Robert Vyncent, Efq. and for the Babingtons. On a raifcd tomb for a " Lcland's Itin, v. I. p. 14, o Ibid. p. 15. ^ Dugd, Ba(, V. I. p. 39. Kyngjlony [ 90 ] Kyngjhjiy who died in 1487, is engraved his will, by which he founded an obit in this church. In the chancel are handfome bufts of a Mr. Babington of the laft cen- tury, and his v/ife, a daughter of Mr. Hop-- kins of Coventry y by whom he had twelve children at fingle births in lefs than thir- teen years. The north fide of the church- yard is appropriated to the burials of the inhabitants of that part of Mountforrely which is within this parifli. In the fouth fide is an upright ftone pillar, about 10 or 12 feet high, tapering from the bottom, on the wed fide of which is fome tracery w^ork carved ; fomething of carving is to be feen in other parts. At the foot lie three flat Hones, as if placed for fupports. There is no tradition concerning it. Mr. Babington has the great tythes, and is en- titled to a fum of money from every one making a purchafe of lands v/ithin certaia towns in what is called his Joke. The comnaon fields were inclofed in 1781. On the right are CoJJingtonj and Radcliff on the Soiir^ v^here is the Roman llation called Vennomentiim, Dr. Stukcley fays, there is a vaft iono; tumulus of an arch- diiiid, and derives the name of CoJJington frona [ 91 ] from Coes^ a prieft Camden s Continuator confiders it as DaniJJj\ Pafs thro* Mountforrell, a long, ill-paved town ; as far as the crofs, is in the parifh of temple Rotheley, other part, is in Barrow, and the further end is in ^larndon. It flands at the foot of a remarkable hill, or rather rock ; the ftone in many places flands out bare, and is of fuch hardnefs as to refift all tools after it has been expofed to the air. Such pieces as can be got from underground are broken with a fledge, and ufed in buildings in the fhape in which they are broken. Here was formerly a caftle, which belonged to Ranulpb, Earl of Chejiery who caine to an agreement with the Earl of Leicejler, in 1 151 (i6 Ste.^ by which it was fettled that Leicejier fliould thenceforth poffefs this caftle, to be held of the Earl of Chejler ';xx\d his heirs, on condi- tion that he fhould receive Earl Ranulph and his retinue into the borough and fort there upon occafion ; and in cafe of neccffity, that R.anulph himfelf fnould lodge in the caftle. At the fame time it was ftipulated. that nei- ther of them fhould ered: any caftle between Qo'ventry and Donington, or between Donhig- *3 Itin. V. I. p, 107, 2, J 34. ^ Brit. v. i. p. 416. % ; on [ 92 ] ton and LeiceJIer'. On the rebellious beha- vior of Kobert Blanchtnatnsy it was leized by Hen^ 2. and retained, when he gave him back great part of his eftate \ It feems to have remained in the hands of the crown till the 17 John, when that king committed the care of it to Saier de ^.incy. Earl of Win-- che/iery who married one of the fifters and coheirefies of Robert Fitz-Parnelly fon and heir of Robert Blanchmains Saier, how- ever, who had re,ceived many other favors from the king, did not hold himfelf bound by any ties of gratitude, (v/hich indeed feems to have had no force in thofe tumul- tuous times) but took part with the barons, who invited over Louis, the Dauphin of France, and placed a French gzxnion in this caftle, giving the government to Henry de Braibroc. On the acceffion of Hen. 3. it was unfuccefsfully attacked, as Rapin fays, by the Earl of Che/I er"" , but Burton and Diigdale fay, it was taken by him, granted to him by Henry, and that he entirely de- ftroyed it^. Some very fmall fragments of the foundation are to be feen on a round part of the hill, called Caftle-hilL ' Diigd. Bar. v. i. p. 38. ^ Ibid. v. i. p. 88. ^ " Ibid. V. I. p. 687. ^ Rapin, v. i. p. 297. y Burton, p. Dugd, Bar, v. i. p. 43. It 3 [ 93 ] It IS well worth while to walk over this hill, inftead of riding thro' the town. The rich meadows below, thro' which runs the Soar^ and the rifing ground on the further fide of it, with the towns of Sileby^ Bar-- row, &c. form a fine view. The meadows are very flat, and after heavy rains, the river fpreads to a great width. At fuch times this hill is faid to bear a refemblance to Gibraltar. In the ftreet is an ancient crofs, almofl hid by a paltry building, inclofing the pe- deftal and part of the fhaft, which is long and flender, of eight fides, fluted, and in the flutes are carved fome heads, quaterfoils, and other ornaments. It is raifed on three fteps, and at each corner of the pedeflal is a rude figure with wings. It is faid there is an intention of taking it down, but an- nexed is a drawing of it. Fig. I. 11. are enlarged reprefentations of fome of the heads carved on it. Fig. III. is the ground plot. There is a fmall chapel belonging to this town. Barrow, on the other fide the river, was part of the great efl:ate of the Earl of Chef- ter ; and when that was divided between four fifters, this fell to the lot of Hugh^de Albany^ Earl of Arun^ell, fon of Mabel, one [ 94 i one of the four, at which time there was a capital manlion here^. Afterwards it be- longed to the knights templars \ The Earl of Chefte}" gave poffeffions here to the abbey of Gerondon^. It has been always famous for its excellent lime, which is of fuch re- pute for water-works, that much of it is exported to Holland. It becomes fo hard, that it is faid even to exceed the hardnefs of the ftone above taken notice of. It lies in thin ftrata ; the firft under the earth is yel- low, and below this are feveral others of blue ftone, about fix inches thick, and about two feet afunder. Both forts are dug out, piled up in the form of a cone, and burnt. The burning one of thefc heaps takes up two days and three nights. The demand for it has encreafed within thefe few years in a very great degree. Two fof- fils have been lately found here, one with the impreffion of a fifli, the other has the refem.blance of a head of feme animal. They were found in a bed of clay, near the farface of the earth. Some fea fliells have been alfo found \ At this place is an hofpital for old batche- lors and widovv^ers ; a foundation not very common. ^ Dugd, Bar. V. I. p. 45. ^ Willis'^ s Cat v. 3. p. 30 1. ^ Dugd. Men, V. I. p. 768. ^ Throfoy, V. 6. p. 67. On [ 9,5 ] On extending the inclofures in this coun- try, many of the old ones are broken up, and it is found good hufbandry fo to do. They lime them, and in three or four years lay them down again. The lime for ma- nure is chiefly burnt at Grace Dieu^ fome miles off, where was an abbey founded by Roefia de Verdon in the 27 Heij. 3.'^ Purfuing the road, fome hills covered with wood prefent themfelves on the left, and near them is Swithland^ the feat of Sir ^ohn Ddrivers^ of a very ancient family, and poffelTed of a large eftate. I'here is here a Hate quarry, the property of the Earl of Stamford^ but the flates are not equal in goodnefs to thofe of JVeJtmoreland and Cumberland. More on the left, the foreft hills of Charnwood are feen, where coal is got. This forefi; extends about ten miles in length and fix in Vv'idth, and is now without a tree in the uninclofed parts of it, tho' in the memory of an old man, known to one who was alive in 1777, a fquirrel might have been hunted in it from tree to tree for fix miles together, without touching the ground. Come to Loughborough y an old market town, which has twice given the title of ^ Dugd. Men, V. I. p. 933. baron [ 96 ] ^baron to the family of Haftings. The firft . time to Edward^ third fon of George, Earl of Huntingdon^ to whom the manor and title were given by Queen Mary, in reward for his powerful and timely affiftance to her againft his neighbour the Duke of Suffolk, father of the Lady Jane Grey. She con- ferred the garter, and feveral high pofts on him; and fuch was his attachment to her, that on her death he retired from the world to an hofpital which he had built at Stoke^ Pogeis, in Bucks, where he died without ilTue. Charles 1. gave the title to Henry Haftings, fecond fon of the Earl of Hun-- tingdon, for an equally faithful, tho' lefs fuccefsful, adherence to him \ he alfo died without iffue % In 1781 the title was given to Alexander Wedderburn, Efq. on his being made chief juftice. of the Com- mon Pleas \ a gentleman whofe abilities at the bar and in the fenate are well known. The manor was given by Edw. 4, to Wil- liam Haftings, his faithful adherent, who affifled him in his efcape from Middleham, and now belongs to his defcendant the Earl of Huntingdon. This William was re-- warded with the flewardfliip of a great number of manors, was made conflable of * Camd, V. I. p. 416. Leiceftery [ 97 1 Lekefter, Donington, and Nottingham caftleSj^ ranger of Leicejier Foreft, and the parks called Leicejier Feythy Barow Parkj and Fooley Parky warden of Shirewoody chief" forefter of Needwood and Diiffieldy and fur- veyor of that honvj and had grants of the manors of Donington and Bnrow^ and WaS made a baron ^ In fl:iort, Edward feeais to have thought he could never do enough for him. His attachment did not ceafe with the death of that king; he retained the fame affection for his fons, and loft his life in confequence, Richard thinking it neceflary to remove him out of his way* 'Tis pity that an example of fuch firm friendfhip lliould be ftained by the inhuman murder of the unfortunate young prince, the fon of Hen. 6. (who was bafely ftabbed in cold blood at Tewkfbury by this Hafti?2gs^ and others) and by his connivance at leaft, at the beheading of Rivers and Greyy by Ric hardy at Pomfret Caftle. The ftory is well known, that as Haftings was going to that council in the Tower, from which he never returned, he exulted in the thought that his enemies were at that very time fuf- fering at Pomfret. ■ Dugd. Bar, v. t. p. 580, ^c* H A few [ 98 ] A few years ago the river Soar was made navigable from hence to the Trejtty which it falls into, near Cavendifid bridge. Mr. MeynelFs fanious fox-hunt, efta- biiflied at ^arndoUj (between MountJo7^rell and this place) is no fmall emolument to the town in the feafon. The hounds are kept by fubfcription, but that gentleman permits his fervant to accommodate as many of his friends as his houfe will hold v/ith apartments, where they are furnifhed with dinners, and all proviiions, as at any public place. Many of thofe v^ho attend the hunt, and cannot get apartments in the houfe, or are ftrangers, come to the inns, and great numbers of hunters are alfo kept here. The company on a field day is very nu- merous, and they go out with as much ce- remony as to court, their hair being al- w^ays dreffed- On the left of Lough borough is a neat white houfe of Mr. Tate, on the rifing ground towards the foreft. A little beyond is Gerondon Park, bought by Serjeant Phil- lips of the Duke Buckingham for Judge Jefferiesy but the ferjeant liked the purchafe fo well, that he kept it for himfelf. The duke, however, cut down 5000/. worth of timber before he would execute the con- 2 veyance. t 99 i veyance. One of the ferjeant's family^ who died a few years ago, left it to his widow for her life ; (he married Sir William Gor- doriy who now lives here. It was an abbey of the after cian order, founded by Robert^ Earl of Leicefter (the founder of Letcejie?^ abbey) in 15 Hen. 2, and was valued at 159/. igx. jo/f on the furvey by iid'f/. 8.^ A little farther, at DiJIoky, on a farm belonging to this ePate, lives Mr. Bakewell, whofe improvements in the breed of cattle and in farming, are well known to every lover of hufbandry. There is a fmall church or chapel here, formerly belonging to the abbey of Geroitdon^ to which this parifli was appropriated^, and it is now a curacy in the gift of Sir VVilliam Gordon. Go thro' Kegworthy a large village with a handfome church ; beyond this you may leave the turnpike road and go to Don-^ nington Park^ the feat of Lord Huntingdonj and come into the road again at Cavendijh bridge. At the village of 'Donnington are fome fmall remains of the caftle, built by the firft Earls of Leicefter ^ as Camden fays'; but it afterwards belonged to Roger de Laci^ S Dugd.Mon. V. I, p. 768* ^ Willis's Cath. V. 3- p. 301. ^ V I. p. 417, H a con«^ [ too ] conftable of C/jefter, and on his death, Ih 15 yohrij was retained in the hands of the king, who, however, the next year, re- jftored it to joh?2y fon and heir of Roger ; Edmund, fon of this yohuy had a grant of free warren, 35 i?. 3- and Henry y fon of Edfnund, enjoyed it, having a grant of a market here in the 6 E. i. On the death of Henry, it defcended to Alice, his daugh- ter and heir, wife of Tho?nas, Earl of Lan-- cajter, and who, outliving her hufband, gave up her right in it to the king in 16 E. 2.^ It remained in the crown when Leiand viiited it^ In the reign of Queen Elizabeth it w\is the property of Robert, Earl of EJfex, who fold it to the Ha/tings'^. At this time the caftle was deftroyed and the houfe built". On the furvey made by Hen. 8, an hofpital here was returned worth 3/* 1 3 J", ^d. a year ^ The park is about a mile beyond the vil- lage i the houfe is fmall, and has nothing in it worth feeing. Wejion Cliff, on the Trent, which runs belov/, has furniflied a view for one of Smith's prints. Returning to the village, you come to the handfome bridge over the Trent, which ^ Dudg. Bar. V. I. p. lOi^ 103, 104, 106. ^ hhu V. I. p. 18. Camd. v. I. p. 417. Thro/by, v. 2. p. 4S. « Dugd, Mon. V, I. 104I. is [ lOI ] IS called Cavendiflo Bridge, from the Devon- fiire family, who built it in the room of a very inconvenient ferry which ufed to be here; the toll is taken the fame as ufed to be at the ferry, and is half a crown for a chaife. The Hone ufed in it, was brought from a quarry about three miles off. Near this place the great Stafford/hire na- vigation joins the "Trentj and by means of that, and the Duke of Brtdgewaters ca- nals, there is water carriage from Liverpool and Manchefter to HulL There is a branch from the StaffordJJoirey which goes off be- tween Stone and Ridgley, by Wolverhampton and Kidder minfter, to the Severn, and ano- ther to Birmingham. Thefe undertakings are truly ftupendous, and flrongly mark the fpirit of enterprize w^hich is fo much the character of the pre- fent age. The advantages to trade are im- menfe, and in other refpeds are very great to the country thro' which the canals pafs. The firft part of this great work may be faid to have been begun by the Duke of Bridgewater about 1759 3 for the fmall at- tempts which had been before made on the Weaver and the Irwell, were carried on with fo little fpirit, as hardly to deferve notice. His grace has purfued the fcheme ever lince 11 3 with [ 102 ] with unremitting attention. Inftead of em- ploying his time and money in the falhion- able diffipations of the age, he gave up both to nn undertaking great in the defign, and molt beneficial to the public in the execu- tion, but attended with difHculties which would have been infuperable to one of lefs Ipirit or fortune than his gr^ce, and to lefs abilities than thofe he was io fortunate to find in his workmen, amongil; whom Mr^ Brindley flands foremofu. When a great furtune comes into fuch hands, inch an ap- plication of it reflects additional luftre on the noble owner ! It was the duke's great happinefs to meet with a man of Mr. Brindley s genius, which broke out like the fun from a dark cloud, he having been totally deilitute of educa- tion ; it vv^as no lefs advantageous to the public, that under fuch a patron, Mr, Brindley was called forth and encouraged. He becjan this difficult work, but other very ingenious men have affifled in carrying it on, particularly Mr. Morris and Mr. Gil- bert. Nor did Mr. Brindley^ with a lit- tlenefs too common, endeavor to conceal his difcoveries in mechanics j he has rea- dily made them public, and has reared men ^hofe abilities are now diftinguifhed. The difficuU [ ] difficulties attending thefe undertakings, only ferved to ftimulate the managers, and their perfeverance has overconie them all. This navigation of the duke's begins at his coal-pits by Worjley-milly and goes to Manchejier one way, and another by AU trincham and Haul t on y to Kiincoym-gapy on the Merfey, and crcffing that river, to Li- verpooly befides a cut from between Stretford and Altrmcham to Stockport. At WGrJley-millsy it is carried a mile and half, or moce, under ground, to the very places where the coal is dug, and by means of bridges, or rather aqua3dud:s, is carried acrofs the navigable rivers Irwell and Mer- fey. This fubterraneous paflage carries ofF the water from the coal works, which ufed to be drawn out by engines at a very great expence, and at the fame time fupplies water for the canal. So far I cannot omit mentioning the duke's works, tho' out of the courfe of my prefent journey, as they gave birth to that great canal which I mentioned to fall into the Trenfy near Cavendifh Bridge. Of this I fhall fay a little more. It v/as fet on foot in 1765 by Earl Gower, and many other gentlemen of BtaffordJJnrey and the neighbouring counties, under the diredion H 4 of [ ] of Mr. Brindley and Mr. Smeafon. The lirit eilimate v/as 101,000/. afterwards en- larged to more than 150,000/. which was raifcd without difficulty. This canal ex- tends from the Merfey to the Trent^ com- manicating with the Duke of Bridge^ WiJicrSy and pafles by or near Northwichy M^ddlewich, Burjlem^ Newcajile, Trent ham y Stonej Stafford^ and Burton, to Cwvendijh Bridge y belides having cuts to Litchfield ^^Vidi Btr?ningham, and is 28 feet broad, and four fe.tandan half deep in general. At Hare-- cafile^ in Staffordfbire, on the borders of Chefijire, a tunnel 12 feet high, and eight feet 10 inches wide, is cut thro* a great hill more than a mile in length. Half a mile on each fide this hill the canal is of an extraordinary dimennon, which will be a refervoir for the water that flows out of the hill in great abundance, both ways, falling north and fouth. The expence of this cut was eftimated at 10,000/. of the canal from the ^Trent to Harecafiky 700/. a mile, and from Harecafile to the other ter- mination, 1000/ a mile. From Cavendijh Bridge^ it is eight miles to Derby ; this town furnifhes feveral matters well v/orthy obfervation. It ftands on the fiver Derwenty and has a very fpacious ^ market-5 [ 105 ] market-place, in which is the town hall, where the affizes are held, and an affembly room, lately furnifhed in an handfome manner by the Duke of DevonjJoire. The tower of All Saints church, built in the time of iJ, 8. is lofty, and of excellent ar- chitedare. The body, which was rebuilt by Glbhs about 50 years ago, is large and uncoiiiMionly handfome. The iron fcreen before the communion-table, the work of a man now living, is of great lightnefs and beauty. A ave-flone, with the date of MCCCC, for John LowCy a clergyman of this church, was lately dug up The mo- Bumcnts of the Cavendijhes have no beauty in them, but one of thern is for a mod remcirkable lady, Elizabeth , Countefs of Shrewjhuryy who ereiled it in her life time. She was daughter of John Hardwicky Efq. of Hardwicky in this county, and at length became coheir to her brother. She was married very young, in the reign of H. 8. to a gentleman of the name of Barley y who died without iffue, and left her a very con- fiderable create. She then married Sir TVil" Ham Cavendijhy who by his fidelity to Car- dinal Woljey in his fall, recommended him- * This church was collegiate, and at the fupprellion was valued at 38/. ixs, Mon, v. i. 1039. There was alfo a nunnery here, and fome fmall founda- tions befides, felf C io6 ] felf to Henry 8. by him fhe had three fons, and furviving him, married Sir William Sf. Loj and becoming again a widow, had for her fourth hufband George Talboty Earl of Shrewjbury. On each of the lafl marriages fhe took care to have large eftates fettled on her and her heirs ; and having no iffue by any of her hulbands, except Sir William Cavendijldy thofe eflates, as well as her own, centered in her fon William^ created Baron Cavendijh^ of Hardwicky and after- wards, byy^. I. Earl of Devon/hire. She founded and endowed well an hofpital near the eaft end of the church, for twelve poor people, which has lately been rebuilt by the duke in an handforne manner. Whether her former hulbands led very eafy lives with her, does not appear, but Camden y as quoted by Dugdale^ tells us that the Earl of Shrewjbury fared badly. In fpeaking of him, he fays, that in thofe ambiguous times (i. e. Queens Mary and Elizabeth) he fo preferved himfelf againft all outward machina- tions, calumnies at court, and the mif- chievous practices of his fecond wife, for full fifteen years, as that he thereby de- ferved no lefs honor for his fidelity and prudence, than he did for his fortitude and valor P Dugd, Bar, v. i. p. 333. la [ ] In the laft rebellion the Pretender pullied forward as far as this town, and kept his court in a hoiife belonging to Lord Exeter y the back of which looks towards the river; but meeting with a cold reception in Eng-^ land, he returned towards Scotland. The famous lilk mill on the river here, was eredled in 1719 by Sir Thomas Lombe^ who brought the model out of Italy^ where one of this fort was ufed, but kept guarded with great care. It w^as with the utmoft hazard, and zt a great expence of time and money, that he effeded it. There are near 100,000 movements, turned by a fingle wheel, any one of which may be flopped independent of the reft. Every time this wheel goes round, which is three times in a minute, it works 73,728 yards of filk. By this mill the raw filk brought from Va-- lencia in Spain^ Italy, or China, is pre- pared for the warp. At one end of this building is a mill on the old plan, ufed be- fore this im^provement was made, where the filk is fitted, in a coarfer manner, for the fhoot. Thefe mills employ about 200 per- fons of both fexes, and of all ages, to the great relief and advantage of the poor. The money given by ftrangers is put into a box, which is opened the day after Michaelmas Day, [ io8 J Dayy and a feall: is made ^ an ox is killed, liquor prepared, the windows are illumi- nated, and the men, women and children employed in the work, dreft in their beft array, enjoy in dancing and decent mirth, a holiday, the expedation of which lightens the labor of the reft of the year. It is cuftomary for the inhabitants of the town, and any ftrangers who may be there, to go to fee the entertainment ^ and the pleafure marked in the happy countenances of thefe people is communicated to the fpeftators, and contributes to the provifion for the en- fuing year. The china manufadory is not lefs worthy of notice. Under the care of Mr. Duef- berry y it does honour to this country. In- defatigable in his attention, he has brought the gold and the blue to a degree of beauty never before obtained in 'England, and the drawing and coloring of the flovv^ers are truly elegant. About 70 hands are em- ployed in it, and happily, many very young, are enabled to earn a livelihood in the bu- ll nefs. Another work is carried on here, v^hich, tho' it does not employ fo many hands, muft not be paffed without obfervation. The marbles, fpars and petrifactions, which abound t 109 ] abound in this county, take a fine polifh, and from their great variety, are capable of being rendered extremely beautiful. Two perfons are engaged in this buiinefs, and make vafes, urns, pillars, columns, &cc. as ornaments for chimney-pieces, and even chimney-pieces themfeives. A mile above Derby is Little CJoeJler^ the Derventio of the Romans, It was of the fame fize as Manceter^ 120 paces long, 80 broad. Within the wall, in what are now paftures, foundations of houfes have been found, wells curbed with good ftone, coins, and earthen pipes. Remains of abridge are faid to have been feen near this place. A little beyond it is Darky Hall ^ a handfome houfe, the feat of Mr. Holden, to which there is a pleafant walk from the town. At this place there was a monaftery of ca- nons regular of the order of St. Augujiin^ founded in the time of Henry the by Hugh the prieft, dean of Derby y who gave to Albinusy and his canons of St. Helen Sy Bear Derbyy all his land at Little Derby, to make there a church and habitation for him and his canons ^. The priory of Derby y founded by Robert Ferrersy Earl of Derby y temp. Hen. 2. was tranflated hither'. At ^ Dtigd, Mon. V. 2. p. 23c. ^ Dugd, Bar, v, I. p. 259* the [ IJO ] the fuppreffion it was valued at 258/. 14X. 5^// Some part of the walls are to be feen in an outhoafe, and in fome cottages^ and a build- ing belonging to the mill below. Tho' it is not doubted that the Romans had a flation at Little Chejler^ yet there has been much doubt whether there was any road from thence to Chejierjield^ or w^hether the latter was a ftation It was referved for the induftry and ingenuity of Mr. Pegge to afcertain thefe fads, the latter of which he feems to have done very clearly. He flates the road to come out of Staff or djhirey over Eggington-heathy by .Little-over^ Nun-* gree?2y and dow^n Darky -Jlade^ to the river, where was the bridge ; he traces it over Morley-moory by Horjley park ^ near a Ro-^ man camp -on Fentrich common to Oker-* thorp \ near KendaWs inn at Alfreton, Shir- land-hally Highamy thro' Stretton (the name of which befpeaks its iituation on a road), Clay-crofsy Egjiew farm, and Tupton-moor ^ from thence it points to Sir Henry Hunlokes avenue, and diredly to Chejierjield. Mr* Pegge particularly defcribes feveral places where it was very vilible in 1760 for a confiderable length together,- between Lit- tle Chejler and Ti Upton-'?noory but can trace * Mon.v. 1. p. 1039. ^ Samon\'> Surrey J V, 540. it [ III 3 it no further, the country having been long in tillage. He gueffes the ftation at Chef- terfield to have been Toptoriy or T^opton-- hill\ About two miles and an half from 'Derby J in the road to Buxton ^ is Kedlejioriy the feat of Lord Scarf dale y vv^Iiich may pro- perly be called the glory of Derby/hire, eclipfing Chatfworthj the ancient boaft of the county. It v^as built from the defigns of Mr. Robert Adam. The front is mag- nificent and beautiful, the apartments ele- gant, and at the fame time ufeful, a cir- cumfcance not always to be met with in a great houfe. It is the ancient feat of the Curzons, a family of great antiquity, wealth, and intereft in this county. This houfe has been built by the prefent lord (created Lord Scarfdale in 1761-) partly on the fpot where the old houfe flood, but the ground has been fo much altered, that there is no refemblance of what it w^as. In the front flood a village with a fmall inn for the accommodation of thofe who came to drink of a medicinal well, which has the virtues of the Harrowgate water ^ Roman roads in Derby Jhire inveftigated. ^ This is the Ilroiigeft fulphur water in Derbyjhlfe at the fpring head, but will not bear carriage, a rivulet [ 112 ] a rivulet turned a water-mill, and the higli road went by the gate. The village is re- moved (li-ot deftroyed, as is too often done) the road is throv/n to a confiderable diftance^r out of fight of the houfe, the fcanty flream is encreafed into a large piece of water, and the ground difpofed in the fineft order. The entrance from the turnpike road is thro' a grove of noble and venerable oaks (fomething hurt by a few fmall circular clumps of firs planted amongfi: them) after which, crofiing a fine lawn, and pafling the water by an elegant ftone bridge, of three arches, a gentle afcent leads to the houfe. The front, built of white ftone, is ex- tenfive ; in the centre is a flight of fteps leading to a portico, confifting of fix Co- rinthian pillars, three feet in diameter, which fupport a pediment decorated with ftatues. On each fide a corridore connects a pavilion with the body of the houfe, forming the two wings, the whole front being 360 feet. The fteps lead into a mag- nificent hall, behind which is a circular faloon. On the left are a mufic-room, drawing-room, and library, and at the end of the corridore, the private apartments of Lord and Lady Scarfdaky and their young family* [ ] family. On the right of the hall are the dining-room, ftate dreffing-room, and bed- chamber, and another dreffing-room, the kitchen, and offices. On each fide of the hall are eight fluted pillars of variegated marble of the country, and two at each end, of the Corinthian or- der, 25 feet high, two feet fix inches in diameter. This room is 60 feet by 30 within the columns, 67 feet three inches by 42 within the walls, 47 to the top of the window ; between the columns are fine antique fi:atues in niches, over which are baflb relievo's in compartments, crowned with fefi:oons ; the cieling coved and richly ornamented with paintings and relievo's in. the antique tafle ; in the centre' is a win- dow, by which the whole receives light. The pannels of the doors are of the paper manufadlure of Mr. C/ay, of Birmmgham^ highly varnifhed, and the paintings well executed. » The faloon is 42 feet diameter, 54 feet fix inches high, 24 feet fix inches to the cornice, crowned with a dome, which lights the room. Over the doors are four paint- ings by Morland^ and there are fome ftatues in niches. I The [ 114 ] The mufic-room is 36 feet by 24, and 22 high. In this room is the triumph of Bacchus y a large and capital piece by Luca ' ' ^ Giordani, a fine head by Rembrandt, and /4f f2 other pieces by BaJJ'an, Horizonti, &c. From this room a corridore, hung with elegant prints, leads to the family apart- ments. The breakfaft-room is painted from the antique in the baths of Dioclefian. The grand drawing-room is 44 feet by 28, and 28 high, with^ a coved cieling ; the furniture blue damaik. A Venetian window and four door-cafes are ornamented with fmall Corinthian columns of alabafter. In this room, as indeed in all the others, are many capital pidures. Raphael, Claude, Guido, Cuypy^Q. are amongft the mafters. The library is of the fame fize and height as the mufic-room. In this room, over the chimney, is a piece of Rembrandt, which beggars all defcription. It is the fi:ory of Daniel brought before Nebiichadiiezxar to interpret his dream, and contains eight or nine fmall whole length figures. The com- pofed majefty of the king, who is feated in a chair of fi:ate 5 the afionifhment and terror of his great men fitting near him 3 the ear- neftnefs of Daniel kneeling before him, and in S [ ] in fliort the whole piece is, beyond expref- fion, ftriking. From this room crofs the faloon into the ilate dreffing-rooni and bedchamber, with a fervant's room behind. The two former hun^ with blue damafk, the bed of the fame, with gold lace, fupported by palm- trees of mahogany, carved and gilt. The bed-room is 30 feet by 22, 20 high. The dining parlor is 36 feet by 24, 20 high, the cieling adorned with paintings. The centre reprefents Love embracing For- tune, by Morland ; four circles, by Ziicchi, reprefent the four quarters of the world; and four fquares, by Hamilton^ the four fea- fons. The corridore on this fide, which is ufed as a chapel, leads to a gallery over- looking the kitchen, which is 48 feet by 24, and lofty, wdth this fignificant motto over the chimney, Wajie noty V/ant not. The principal flair-cafe, leading out of the hall to the attic flory at this end, con- duds to eight apartments for vifitors, moft, if not all of which, have a bed-room, dref- iing-room, and fervant's room. The church, which is not at all feen in the approach, flands. clofe to the weft end of the houfe ; the old pun of Wee pall re- mains on the dye-all. I z From [ ii6 ] From the principal front of the houfe, which is the north, the eye is condudted by a beauttful flope to the water, which is feen tumbling down a cafcade, encircling an iiland planted with firs, and at the bridge falling over rough rocks, and then forming a large river, on which is a yatch. Below is a fmall ruflic building over the well and bath, which are ufed by many perfons, who are accommodated at an inn, built by his lordfliip in the road, and from which a pleafant walk thro' the park leads to the bath. In the back front of the houfe is the pleafure ground, ftretching up to the edge of the riling ground, on which is a fine and extenfive plantation, beginning to fhevv itfelf in great beauty. The walk is about three miles in the whole. Of all the houfes I ever faw, I do not re- colledt any one which fo completely pleafed me as this did, and the uncommon polite- nefs and attention of the houfekeeper who fliewed it, added not a little to the enter- tainment. Go out of the park the fame way, and turning on the left, go by Wejion^ Ayrton^ and WirJzfworth^ to Matlock. From Wejioriy turning oft to Ayrton\ the road is good, and the [ ] the country beautiful ^ the inclofures on the fides of the hills, which run in all di- redlions, fome in corn, fome in pafture, rform a very pleafing fcene. From Ayrton to Wirkfworth the road is very indifferent, but I believe it would have proved better if I had gone forward after pafTing Ayrton^ in- ftead of turning, as I did, on the right. There is another way by Diiffieldj which leads into the turnpike road from Derby to Matlocky by turning on the left on leaving the park, and then taking the firfl road on the right; but neither of thefe are good for a carriage, and the befl way is to go back towards Derby into the turnpike road. Pafs thro' Duffieldy a village where was formerly one of the caflles of Robert Fer-- rersy Earl of Derby , which he held againfl Hen. 2. but was compelled to furrender it, and it was demoli^hed^ V/hether there is any veflige of it now I do not know. There was then a forefl: called Du^eld foreft \ Soon after coming on this turnpike, be- gin to 2i{Q^x\^ the hills, v/hich are in ge- neral barren on the outfide, marked with heaps of rubbifh thrown out by the miners, but interfperfed with fome pleafant dales and woods. 2 Dugd. Bar. v, I. p. 259. ^ Arch, v. 2. p. 278. I 3 This [ ii8 ] This road leaves Wirkjworth on the left, which is a pretty large town in a bottom, where is a great market for lead, and a hall is built for holding the miners' courts. This manor, with that of Afiburriy was given by King yohn to William Ferrers, Earl of Derby, whofe defcendant Robert loft this and all his other great eftates by his reiterated perfidy to Hen. 3. who at length feized them, and gave them to his fon Edmund Crouchback, Earl of hancajier, from whom this defcended to '^ohn of Gaunt, Duke of Lancajier ^ and now re- mains part of that dutchy. Here was for- merly a very pleafant and pure warm fpring, but in digging for lead they loft it, and have now tv^^o warm brooks, being old Houghs made to drain the water from their works, which bring down faiali lead, tho' the works have been ended many years, and are not fit for drinking/. There are two chalybeate fprings here, one in a meadow called Fijhpool-jiat, which is like Fyrmont water ^ The rocks begin hereabouts to fhew themfelves in a thoufand romantic fhapes. At the bottom of a long hill, called Cronrford, is a village of the fame name \ a ^ 4rch, V. 2. p. 285, c ^hort^ Pre/, p. 14, ^ lb. p. 276, large 0 I 1^9 ] large handfome inn was built here in 1778. The right hand road goes to Nottingha^riy the left to Matlocky croffing a little ftreara that comes from Bonfal in its way to the Derwenty which it falls into juft below, after turning a mill for fpinning cotton, invented by one Mr. Arkwright^ who has a patent for it, and in conjun£lion with fome other perfons, carries on the bufinefs with great advantage to himfelf and the ' neighbourhood. It employs about 200 perfons, chiefly children ; and to make the moft of the term for which the patent was granted, they work by turns, night and day. Another mill, as large as the firft, is building here, new houfes are riling round it, and every thing wears the face of in- duftry and chearfulnefs, A third is built at Bakewell, another at Calver. Mr. Ark-- Wright was bred a barber, but true genius is fuperior to all difficulties, even thofe of education, and happily he found men of fpirit to fupply that money which he wanted to carry his fchemes into execution. The undertaking amply repays them for their confidence. The manor of Matlocky with thofe of Bonfal^ Wirkfworthy and many others, were part of the great eftate of the FefTers, Earls I 4 . [ I20 ] of Derhy ; and in 36 H. 3, Earl WilUam ob- tained a charter of free warren in them, amongft others ^ How different is the appearance of this place now, from what it was fome years ago, when it was only noticed by the tra- veller as the habitation of a few grovers, who dug for lead ore, and whofe huts were not bigger than hogfties ^ And yet, beau- tiful as it is now, that defcription was then a true one. The grandfather of a man w^hom I faw in 1780, worked at the firft building over the old bath, and no carriage had then ever paffed through the dale j in- deed none could have palTed, the rocks at that time extending too near the edge of the river. The waters became known about the year 1698, w^hen the bath was built and paved by the reverend Mr. Fern^ of Matlock^ and Mr. Hey war d^, of Cromford^ and put into the hands of George Wragg^ who to confirm his title, took a leafe of it of the feveral lords of the manor for ninety- nine years, paying them a fine of 150/. and an annual rent of fix-pence a-piece. He then built a few fmall rooms adjoining to the bath, which were but a poor conve- ® Dugd, Bar. v. i. p. 262. ^ England'' s Gazetteer, S Short , p. 80. nience [ ] nience for ftrangers ; but his leafe and pro- perty were fold about the year 1730 to Mr. Smith and Mr. Fennelly of Nofting-- batriy for near one thoufand pounds. They erected two large commodious buildings, with ftables, coach-houfe, &c. made a coach road along the river fide from Crom-- fordy and opened a better horfe-way from the bath to Matlock-bridge^ which is now made a very good turnpike road. Mr. Pen-^ nell afterwards bought Mr. Smith's ^2iVty and dying about 1733, left it to his daughter. It is now the joint property of feveral per- fons\ The bath is twenty yards above the river, and from it to the top of the rocks on the weft fide of the houfe is 120 yards perpen- dicular, where ftand fome fmall cottages. From thefe are feveral grafs clofes on ano- ther afcent, which afterwards becomes fteep and rugged, and rifes almoft to a level with the top of MaJJon^ whofe fummit is 250 yards above the Derwent. On the north and weft fides of the bath rife WejiupS'- hills y twenty yards above the High Torrj on the lower and fouth part of which is a By Fahrenheit's thermometer, the temperature of com- mon water is 48"", Matlock bath 68°, Buxtcn bath 82"^, vital heat 96'', King's hzKh Z.X. Bath, I boiling water ziz"". Whitehurff s Theory , p. 109, f fmall [ 122 ] fmall grove, with dry meadows, houfes, mines, &c. and above thefe is a rugged, flony afcent, on the top of which Proud Majfon raifes his lofty head, about one hundred fathoms above the fummit of Matlock High T^orr. On the v^eft fide of the bath is another fteep and almoft inacceffible afcent of crags and rocks, above which are fome houfes and inclofures, and at the top of them a plain, commanding a very large profpe6t, except on the north fide, where it is bounded by Majfon '\ From this plain are feen fome parts of Staffordjhire and Cbejhire, with feveral towns, villages, &c. All the warm waters fpring up from be- tween 15 and* 30 yards above the level of the river ; higher or lower the fprings are cold, and only common water. There are feveral warm fprings, befides a current of warm water from a mine called Balh-eyey Vvhich was a natural grotto formerly filled with ore, and produced very great quantities of lead. All along this courfe of warm waters, from their firft eruption down to the river, are vaft heaps of petrifaftions ^ which are foft before they are expofed to the air, and very light, but aftervv^ards turn to a fmoaky ^ Shorty p. 71, 72. ^ Ibid. p. 74. blue [ 1^3 1 blue color, become very hard, and are ufed in building. Any ftrong acid dropt on them, raifes a great fermentation, and turns them to a jelly ^ Whilfl the waters retain their warmth and motion, few or no petri- fadions are found, but when they begin to lofe their warmth and motion, the petri- fadlions are found. All the warm waters dropping from the roofs of fmall grottoes hereabouts, form little pillars or prifms of various fhapes, fuch as bones of all forts, hartfhorns, co- rals, and faint reprefentations of fome parts of animals ""j but thofe above ground form another fort of petrifadions, by incrufta- tion at firft, but it afterwards deftroys the body on which it is gathered, retaining the perfed fhape of it, as moffes, grafs, leaves, flicks, &c. There is a notion that the pe- trifying quality is not fo ftrong now as it ufed to be. The Bath water, and all thefe tepid fprings, are very clear, and have no fleam except in a cold morning, or in winter; nor do they throw up great bubbles of air like the Buxton waters", w^hich contain more fulphur and mineral fpirit°. ^ Short, p. 86, Ibid. p. 77. " Ibid. p. 8u ^ Ibid. p. 88. Thefe [ ] Thefe waters are lighter than Brijlol wa- ter by near a grain in a pint, and are good in hedic fevers, want of appetite, and many other cafes ^ Two miles fouth-weft, is Middkton Bath, which rifes clofe by the fouth fide of Bonfal brook, at the foot of a very high, fleep mountain, one mile from Middkton, two from Wirkfworth ; it is 1 6 yards long, feven broad, and tv^o deep. It is continually bubbling up with great force, and imme- diately empties itfelf into the brook. It is chiefly ufed to cure mangey horfes and dogs, but is fit to be employed to much greater purpofes ^. The entrance of Matlock Dale from Cromfordy is by a pafTage cut thro' the rock, which makes a very ll:riking ap- pearance. From hence it is about a mile P Short, p. 91. ^ Ibid. p. 92. Dr. Perciual has given the following comparative view of the different temperatures of Bath^ Buxio7i^ Brijicl, and Mat- lock waters, meafared by Fahrenheit'' s thermometer. Bath — King's-bath pamp iiz"* Hot-bath pump i hI" Crofs-bath pump no** Brifiol Hot- well pump - 76^ Buxton Bath - - - 82^ "bX., Ann's SN ex - 81^ Matlock'^^\\\% - - . - 68^ Spring - - - 66'' See his experiments on the waters of Buxton and Matlock. to [ ^^5 3 to the Beth, the road running by the fide of the river, and the dale being in fome parts fo narrow, that there is little more than room for the road betwen the river on one hand, and the rocks on the other. In fome places it fpreads to a greater width ; in all, it is a moft romantic and beautiful ride. The river is fometimes hid behind trees, fometimes it glides fmooth and calm, fometimes a diftant fall is heard ; here it tumbles over a ledge of rocks, flretching quite acrofs i there it rulhes over rude frag- ments, torn by ftorms from the impending maffes. Each fide, but particularly the farther one, is bordered by lofty rocks, ge- nerally clothed with wood, in the moft pidurefque manner. In m.any places where they feem to be quite perpendicular, and without any earth on them, underwood, a£h, and other trees fhoot up, growing to the common height. At Matlock are two baths, the old and the new j the new is the firft, is a hand- fome houfe, and the fituation is much plea- fanter than that of the other, but the old is much the largeft houfe, and moft fre- quented. Each of them has a bath. The company dine together in a large room at two, and fup at eight, after which there is mufic [ 126 ] mufic for thofe who choofe dancing, or cards for thofe who prefer them. The charge for dinner is one fliilling, and the fame for fupper; every one drinks what he likes. A little way from the old bath, a boat- man is ready to ferry over to the other fide of the river, where he has made a walk on the bank, thro' the wood at the foot of the rocks, as far as the mouth of a lead mine, drained by an engine, which is worked by the river. In this v/alk two little ftream- lets are feen on the oppofite fide, haftening down the bank. One of them falls from a confiderable height, but would have a better effedt if the regular fteps over which it tumbles, were taken away. Returning towards the landing place is an afcent to the top of the rock by about 220 fteps, befides feveral gradual Hopes ; this is fb well managed by different turnings, that tho' the rock is here almoft perpendicular, little difficulty is found in gaining the fum- mit ; and the wood groves fo clofe to the edge of the path, that there is no room for the leaft apprehenfion of danger. About half way up is a feat overlooking the river gnd country. At the top is a fine pafture ground. Hoping from the very edge of the rock [ ] rock down to a little valley, where a fmall bend of the river is feen, tho' from the lituation of the ground, it appears to be a different one from that which you left be- low. Turning to the right a ruflic bench is found, from whence is a full view of the whole of that fcenery, of which diiFerent parts had prefented themfelves before. A blind path acrofs the inclofures, leads from hence to the cotton-mill. Between the Bath and the village of Matlock, the ride is equally romantic with the entrance of the dale ; but in one place the rock, from its fuperior height and boldnefs, has acquired the name of Mat-- lock great or high Torr. It is faid the per- pendicular height is 140 yards. About half way up it is covered with underwood, without any great trees ^ the upper part is perpendicular, and almoft entirely bare, only here and there is a fmall tree hanging out of a crevice. The river runs clofe at the foot, and by the intervention of a ledge of flone, forms a coniiderable cafcade. The ftrata of ftone here, exadly correfpond with thofe on the oppofite fide of the vale; a proof that fome violent convulfion has rent them afunder ^ WhiiQhurJly p. 1 5 3. A little [ ] A little beyond this is the village ; the houfes fcattered on the fides of the hills and in the bottom, the bridge, the church ftanding fingle, near the edge of a high rock, yet flieltered by trees, the meadows^ the moving machinery of an engine for draining a mine here, and the barren hills in the Lointairiy form all together a moft piclurefque and delightful view. About a mile from Matlock-bridge^ is a fcene fit for the pencil of a Sahator Rofa. Take the road to Chejierfieldy and at the turnpike go off on the right, over a com- nion fcattered with large grey flones, when a fmelting houfe called l^he humbsy is foon feen. It ftands on a point, from which the water falls a great height over the rudefl rocks, and has Worn a deep hollow, co- vered with fragments of flone, fome of them very large, between which the cur- rent finds its way. At the bottom is a little mill, turned by a fmall branch of the ftream, which is conduced by a channel made for that purpofe. A little above this mill is the ftation for feeing the fall. At this fmelting houfe red lead is made by burning common lead a fufficient time, by which it is reduced in v/eight as much as 2 or 300 pound in a ton/ On the flones ' [ 129 ] ftones in the common I law a little' of the rock mofs, which is found plentifully at Dolgellyy in Merionethjhire^ and carried froni thence to Dublin^ where it is ufed as a red dye. Near Matlock- bridge are two chalybeate ✓ fprings, one by the (ide of the road to Bakewelh on the right hand rifing the hili ; the other, which is flronger^ is ander a bank in the foad to Alfreton^ by the fide of the little ftream which comes down frciii the fmelting mill, mentioned above. In the way to Bonfal fome pieces of wa - ter have been lately formed by dams acrofs the little ftream, which runs down thar bottom, and on one of them a large corn- mill is built. There is a pleafant ride on the road to Nottingham^ the river being on the right;^ and much wood on the fides of the hills* On the top of the hill called Rioer; which is above the church, is a fioirr: faid to have been formerly a rocking ilor.c. called in Cornwall a hogan-fione^ but \i is hot moveable now; it has a round holo in the top, exadly refembling one wh icU Dr. Borlafe^ in his antiquities of Cornivoli, has given a print of^ plate XI. fig. 4. It is L ] not very large, and is placed on two other flones- At Birchover (pronounced Bhxhe}'^) are fome very large rocking fton^s, called Rou-- tar-jlonesy in a moft extraordinary fituation^ well worth viliting. The beft way is to go thro' Winjler^ keeping the church on the left, when a road up the fteep fide of a hill on the right, leads to Bircher, a fmall village, at the farther end of which are thefe ftones in an inclofure\ They are a moll: w^onderful aflemblage of rocks, or rather huge ftones, piled on one another, forming a hill, which runs in length for feventy yards, or more, from eaft to weft, the north fide and weft end being nearly perpendicular. You go up at the eaft end by a moderate afcent, when prodigious mafies of ftone prefent themfelves, and a paffage about fix feet high appears, which formerly went under part of them, and came out on the north fide, but the middle of it is now fallen in. On the north fide, you find fome immenfe ftones, which form * Thefe mull be what are flightly mentioned by Stukeley, without afcertaining the place; he fpeaks of two tumuli on the edges of oppofite hills on entering the Peak country, and a hermitage by a great rock, called Ratcliffe, on the back of which flones are fet up two and two, forming a Celtic avenue. 2 a kind t 131 ] n kind of alcove, feeming as if fcodped out for that purpofe. Going up to the higher part are two rocking flones, which can be moved by the hand ; one of them> fuppofed to V7eigh 50 ton, refts on two points of lefs than a foot diameter each^ but there is now earth and grafs colled:ed> which cover the ftone on which they reft^ yet not fo as to prevent its being moveable. On the higheft ftone of all, a round pillar of three joints, with a weather-cock at the top, has been let into fuch a hole as that which appears in the ftone on Rt6er, men- tioned above'. On the north fide of one of the upper ftones, towards the weft end of the hill, a chair is cut, with two arms of very rude workmanfhip, and a feat for one perfon on each fide of it. One of the uppermoft ftones meafures ^7 f^-^> oi" more^ in length. When feated in this chair, you fee to- wards the right a fingle ftone on an op- pofite hill, called the 'Eandk^ or Anvil-' Jione ; and to the right of that another^ called Tfbomass Chair:, on this laft there was a few years ago, a ftone cut in ftiape ^ Mr. Rooke fays, this is a rock-bafon, and that there are others here. Arch. \, 6. p. iii. where are feveral views of thefe rocks. K 2 of [ J 3^ 1 of a chair, with a feat on each fide, but it is now thrown down. Looking to the left, on the points of a high crag, are two upright ftones, called Robinhood's Stride a little to the right of them, at the other end of the range, terminating in a heap of loofe ftones, is Cratcliff "Torr ; fouth of Kobinhood' s Stride is Bradley^ pr Bradwetl Torry where is another fhaking ftcne. This laft is probably that which Dr. Borlafe fays he had heard of, as being four yards high^ and 12 round. Of the two at Routary he fays, the largeft is computed* to weigh at leaft 20 ton, and that it is on a karn 20 feet high \ At the foot of Routary on the fouth fide, is a houfe called Routar-hally once the ha- bitation of a gentleman's family, lately belonging to Mr. Eyrey of Derby, from whom it defcended to the prefent Lady MaJJareeUy his daughter ; there is alfo a fmall chapel. From this houfe there is a way up to thefe ftones, where part of them is feen in a moft extraordinary pofi- tion ; the higheft heap of them here form& a face to the weft, where they hang over one another almoft without fupport, in the manner of that defcribed by Dr. Bor-* * Antiquities of Corn^vjally p, 182. lafe [ 133 ] iafe In plate XI. fig. 5, but much larger. The guide would make you believe that * the facrifices were performed here, and that the marks of fire are ftill vifible on thefe ftones. I cannot fay I could fee it. The north fide at this end confifts of vaft maffes, piled on one another in the fame manner, fmall ftones feeming to have been put in to fupport the large ones. The heap goes further towards the weft, but lefs high, and is terminated by a fingle fquare ftone placed on fome others. It feems incredible that thefe ftones fhould have been brought and placed here by any human art, as no engines now known would be equal to the taflc of bringing and placing them in the pofition in which they are now feen. Yet when one confiders Stone-hengey which is beyond doubt the work of art ; when we hear what maffes of folid ftone were carried to Palmyra, and raifed to a great height, one cannot fay it is impoffible that this fhould be the work of human hands. Dr. JB^r- lafe obferves % that the ancients had powers of moving vaft weights, of which we have now no idea ; whatever knowledge was pof- feffed, was poflefled by the Druids , and ^ Jntiquities of Corn^-wall^ p. 175 ^ K 3 they [ 134 ] they are fiippofed to have had fo abroluta y a command of the people ^ that nothing would be wanting to efFed: what they might defign. There are other certain marks of their having been in this neighbourhood. But, after all, may not this heap be the ef- fe6i: of that convullion which ha? left fuch ailoniihing marks of its violence in this country; and might not \ht Druids, finding the ftones here^ remove the furrounding earthy and ufe thenri as a place of religious wcrfhip, taking advantage of the uncom- mon circumftance of fuch large flones being moveable by fo fmall a force, to make the multitude believe they were inverted with fupernatural powers ? Dr. Borlafe defcribes a Tolmen in Corn-- 'wall^ and another in Scilly^ to confift of a large orbicular ftone, fupported by two ilones, between which there is a paflage, and fays they are both in the decline of hills, beneath a large karn of rocks, {land- ing on tv/o natural fupporters : he adds afterwards, Another thing is worthy of our notice in this kind of monuments^; which is, that underneath tl^efe vail ftones, there is a hole gr pafTage be« tween the rocks w^hether this wa^^ ufed [ ^35 ] ufed as a fandluary for an oiFender to fly to, or to introduce profelytes, novices, people under vows, or about to facrifice into their more fublime myfteries, he does not de- termine ^ The ftones on Routar do not feem to an- fvver the defcription of a Tolmen, but that on Bradley Torr does ; the paffage, how- ever, might be for a flniilar purpofe. Crat cliff prefents a broad and very lofty perpendicular front of ftones, wonderfully large, facing Winjier and Fjlton ; fome of the upper ones are worn on the edges, as if jagged^ and many of them are marked with Teams, probably occaiioned by the rain wafliipg away the fofter parts : Mr* Rook^ fays, there are four rock-bafons on the top. At the weftern end is a fmall cave in the rock, open to the fouth, which was for- merly the habitation of a hermit. At the eaft end of it the figure of our Savior on the crofs was carved on the ftone, and great part of it is ftiil remaining. On the left of it is a niche. Facing the entrance was a feat, hewed out of the rock. A bed- place feems to have been feparated from the reft, the holes remaining in which the pofts were probably placed. ^ A7iti^uities of Cornivall, p. 174, 1/6. K 4 On [ ^6 ] On the fame range of hill, two ftonee itanding upright in a dirc6l line from one another, have got the name of Robmhood's Stride ; they are alfo called Mock-beggar- hally from the refemblance they have to chimnies at each end of a manfion-houfe^ and which, on the north fide particularly^ might induce the poor traveller to make up to it in hopes of refreHiment. Still more weft of this, is another craggy rock^ v/hich^ from the road to Elton^ feems to hang al- inoil: without fupport. About half a mile to the north of thefe rocks^ on Hartle-moory or ^tanton-rnoor^ \% a circle of nine upright ftones, called the Nine Ladies ^ a little w'eft of this is a lingle il;one, called "The King ^ near tliis are le- veral cairns, fome of which have been opened, and bones found in them^ On Bircher-moory towards Bakewell^ I was told there is a fimilar circle, but the ilooes not fo high as in the other ^ Going towards Elton^ the guide fliew^ed me- the top of v/hat he called a pillar of i 8 ^ Mr, Rocke fays, there was foond with bones a large i^-ue glafs bead, with oriiices not larger than the tip of a tcbacco-pipe. Mr. Rooke mentions this ar. being on liartle~?ncor^ half n;i]e well of the l^i?ie Ladies^ and having now only fix or- [ ^37 J or 20 feet in height, appearing between the Fjandle-Jlone and Thomas's Chair^ towards Bakewell ; but at Bakewell I could not get any information about it. About 200 yards north from the Nine Ladies, and a quarter of a mile weft of the little valley which feparates Hartle-jnoor from Stanton-moor, Mr. Rooke defcribes a circular work called Cajlle Ring. It hai^ a deep ditch and double vallum ; the en- trance is very vifible on the fouth-eaft fide, where part of the vallum has been levelled by the plough. The diameter from N. E. to S. W. is 143 feet, from S. E. to N. W, 165 feet. As no coins or Roman xxttn^ils have been found near it, he fays there feems to be grounds to fuppofe it a Britijh, not Roman, encampment. Some give it to the Danes, who fecured themfelves fome time in Derbyjhire, after they had driven out the Saxons, but its vicinity to many Druidical remains, feem to fpeak it Britijh. This gentleman alfo mentions three re- markable ftones, called Cat-Jiones, on the eaft fide of Stanton-moor, at the edge of a declivity, looking over Darley Dale ; and another near them, called Gorfe-Jtone, de- rived from the BritiJJj word Gorfed-dau, which Dr. Borlafe mentions as a place of eleva- [ ] elevation ufed by the Druids^ from whence they ufed to pronounce their decrees. He gives alfo a plan of a fmall circular work in the middle of Stanton-moor, i6 yards diameter, and fome remarkable rocks near the village of Stanton. Thefe things my miferable guide gave me no information of when I was there. On the commons of Winjlor are feveral barrows, chiefly of flone, but one of earth was opened about the year 1768, when there were found in it two glafs veflels, betv/een eight and ten inches in height, containing about a pint of water, of a light green color, and very limpid. With diefe was found a filver collar, or bracelet, and other fmall ornaments, and one of fil- ligree work, of gold, or filver gilt, and fet with garnets, or red glafs. There were alfo feveral fquaje and round beads, of va- rious colors, of glafs and earth, and fome fmall remains of brafs, like clafps and hinges, and pieces of wood, as if of a lit- tle box in w^iich the ornaments had been depofited ^ From Matlock there are many excurfions to be made. That to R.outar, which I have juft mentioned 5 to Dovedaky and Mr, [ 139 J Mr. Porte at Ilcwiy to Haddon-hall, Bake- ivelly Mr. Eyres, at Hajop, and Monfal JDale ; to llardwick-hall j to Chatfworth, and from thence by Middleton Dale to Caf-- tleton, in the high Peak, and fo to Tidfwell and Buxton. The road to Dovedale is by Middleton^ leaving Wirkfworth on the left ; thro' .Br^- fingtoriy Bradburriy and TiJJington, into the turnpike-road from Bakewell to AJIobourn^ about two miles and an half from the laft place, coming into it at a little public- houfe called the T)og and Partridge but the traveller muft not depend on this houfe for refrelliment. The road to Dovedale goes off the turnpike by this houfe : paf- fmg a church on the left, and two or three cottages on the right, you turn on the right into a field, where there is no other track than what is made by the fummer vi- ctors ; yet in the lower part of this, on the left, the entrance of the dale will be eafily found. Before I enter on a defcription of Dove- dale, I mufi: mention that at Brajfington there is in a large pafiure a rock, called Rainjier, fp reading fomething like a turkey-' cock's tail. On the moor, on the right, is a rocky hill, called Harbury^ from whence you [ HO ] you fee to a great diilance. The moor is covered with rocks of a rough, ragged ftone. On this common, fome years ago, a Kyjl-vaen was difcovered by a farmer, who cut thro' the barrow to get ftone 5 he broke part of the lid, but found it fo trou- blefome that he defifted, and the reft of it remained perfeil, and was viiited by the gentleman from whom I had this informa- tion. I believe this is the farne as is now to be feen on the top of Miningle-low^ near BraJJtngton common, between Newhaven and Winjier. On this fpot were feveral, three of them are now remaining, but partly hid by a plantation of trees, which is furrounded by a wall. They confift of large perpendicular ftones fet into the ground, and appearing fome more, fome lefs above the furface, Ibme clcfe together, others not fo, and on the top of them is laid one large flat ftone. The moft perfed: is about nine feet in length, and on the north-eaft fide there is room enough to go down into it. Another lefs perfedt is 13 feet in length. To return to Dovedak; the walk be- tween the rocks begins at a point where the river Dove turns a corner of the pro- jefting hills, one of which (on the left) is very [ HI ] very lofty, and is called "Thorpe Cloud. Here the horfes mud be left. Following the coarfe of the flream, yoa come to the upper part of the dale, called Mill-dale^ where there is a little public-houfe by a bridge, which leads towards Alfionfieldy and the great copper-mine of the Duke of Z)^- 'vonjldire^ called ESlon Mine. If you mean to go thither, a guide muft be got to take the horfes round to the bridge. Dove dale is in every part deep and nar- row, the river running fometimes' clofe to the rocks on one fide, fometirnes on the other, often barely leaving a foot-path* Thefe rocks, on both fides the water> are of grey limeftone, of every wild and gro- tefque variety of height and £hape. Some- times they ftand fingle, like the fragments of a wall, or the tower of an old caftle ^ fometimes they rife from a broad bafe in a kind of pyramid, at others, fiender like a pinnacle j fometimes plain and perpendi- cular ; fometimes huge maffes hang on the upper part, almoft without fupport, and feem to threaten deftrudlion to any one who ventures beneath them. Yew, afh^, whiteleaf, and other trees, grow out of the crevices, fcattered in various parts, in one place forming a thick wood from the bottona t 142 ] bottom to the top. Wood-pigeons, and d great number of hawks are found here 3 and there is a rabbit-warren, in which 3500 couple arc taken in a year, the fkins of which fell for about eight fhillings a dozen. After going up a little way, there is on the right a large natural arch in a rock, w^hich ftands out fmgle, and has the ap- pearance of a wall ; this leads to a cavern in the rock behind, called Reynard' s-hall^ and to another called his Kitchen. Towards the upper end is another large arch and a cavern, called Foxholes. Be- yond this, a turn on the right leads to a farm-houfe, called iiZ^/^/^ Grange^ but the llream will lead to Mill-dak. The rocks continue fome diftance further, and then are loft by degrees, a fragment peeping out here and there after the chain is dif- continued. The Dove rifes near Buxton^ in the pa- rilli of Aljionjield, is here of various width, very clear, deep in fome few places, but generally fhallow, runs rapidly, and has many fmall falls, but none of confequence ; the bed of it is fometimes overgrown with weeds, and the fides often fo, which takes off [ H3 ] off much of its beauty. It here parts the counties of Derby and Stafford. Poachers take from five to twenty pounds weight of trout or grayling at a time, and carry them to Buxton or Matlock ^ w^here they fell them for lix-pence or eight-pence a pound. Cray-fiHi are alfo taken heie. On the top of tlie rock, oppofite the Foxholes J cockles, perriwinkles, and other fea-fhells are found ; fhells are alfo found petrified in the rocks, in feveral places. On the hill in the road from Ilam to Wet-- tony they are digging a crumbly red grit- ftone, almoft entirely compofed of cockle and other fhells. On a hill oppofite Rey-^ nard' S'hally in an old mine, a few entrochi are found in the flone ; and in the wood beyond is a vein of ruddle, or red ochre, in chinks of the rocks, which is ufed to mark fneep with, and it will not eafily w^alh out. In it are found chryftals of a coarfe red color, of five points, lefs perfed^ than thofe found at Buxton^ but harder. Lava is faid to be feen about "Thorpe cloud, and in other parts of the dale. From this hill the rocks on the oppofite fide of the river afliime new fhapes, and their fliadows projected by the fetting fun have a fine ef- fea. This i H4 3 This fcene is romantic and wild, vvitb more of the fublime than the beautiful^^ but no one of curiofity who is in this part of the country can omit feeing it. There is a way to go into this dale at the head of it, by going to Hanfon Grange ^ which ftands at one entrance, or to Mill- dale at another ^ but it cannot be found without a guide, who may be taken from ^ijjingtony where is a feat of the very an- cient family of Fitzherbert^. If this is preferred^ the horfes muft be fent round to meet you at coming out, if it is intended to go to AJhbourn. Leaving the dale, on going out of the field turn on the right to Mr, Forte at Ham. His garden is in a bottom, fur- rounded by hills, and confifts only of a walk round a meadow. The right hand hill is a rock, at the foot of which is the curiofity that attrads the traveller. The rivers Hamps and Manifold ingulph them- felves at a coniiderable diftance from hcnccy and from each other, the one near fix, the other four miles off ; the one running north, the other weft, yet they come out of the rock in this place within lo yards ® The author of the famous law-booky called Natura B rectum, was of this family » of C 145 ] of each other, the former from a hole of about four feet deep, the latter from one of 14. They prefently join their ftreams, and receiving that current of the MaiitJ'old which runs above ground from Wetton-- mill when there is too much water to be received by the fwallows there, run under the name of the Manifold into the Dove, at no great diftance. Some have afFeded to doubt whether the ftreams which break out in the garden are really diftind: ones, or only different branches of the fame; but I was alTured by a man of obfervation, that he has feen at different times one of them fwelled by a fudden (hov/er, the other re- maining calm, and fo of each of them. In this hilly country it is common for a heavy fhower to fall in one place, when at a fmall diftance it ftiall be fair weather. In the rock above is a feat of which Congreve was very fond, and where it is faid he wrote his Old BatcheloVy a play thought at that time to be very witty. The oppoiite hill rifes fteep and high, and is covered with a hanging wood, at the foot of which is the channel filled by the Ma- nifoldy when the cavity in the rocks at W ?tton-mill will not carry off all the water, but dry in a feafon of droug-ht. In this L channel [ 146 ] channel (up to the mill) are ftones which fhew a vein of pyrites, the fize of a knit- ting-needle, croffing the ftones in various diredlions. It is faid that no others of the fort are found in the neighbourhood. From the upper end of this meadow a conical hill is feen, flat at the top, as if the point was cut off. It feems to ftand fingle, amongft a heap of rude, miftiapen moun- tains, and forms a ftriking objed:. In the garden is a curious engine for fupplying the houfe with water, made by Mr. Chatterton^ a very ingenious workman at Derby. There are two buckets which work themfelves, one defcending as the other rifes, the full one emptying itfelf into a pipe, which conveys it to the houfe. St. Bertrams well ; his afli-tree growing over it, which the country people ufed to hold in great veneration, and think it dangerous to break a bough from ; or his tomb in the church, which are mentioned by Plot^ I did not hear of it at the place. About four miles from Ila7n, in the way to EStoJi-mine, is the village of JVetton^ a mile from which is a mill, of which, and the rocks about it, Smith has engraved a viev/, amongft thofe he has given of this ^ Natural Hi/lory of Staffordflnre^ p. 207, 409. country. [ 147 1 country. Thfere is fome fcenery of rock and water, but it will fcarce repay the trouble of a walk. In going to it, yoil fee on the left a large cavern in a high rock, but it has nothing to compenfate the labor of going to, and defcending from it. In the bottom, a little below the mill, the Manifold ruflies into fome chafms in the foot of the rock, and runs underground till it rifes in the garden at Ham. The gardener proved the fad, by putting fome corks into the river here, and fixing a net at the place of its emerging at Mr. Porte Sy where he found them again* Wetton is a very mean village, the inha« bitants employed in mining. It is a poor vicarage of 20/. a year, the church ferved about once a fortnight. This place be^ longs to the Duke of Devoji/hire^ and the land ietts from 10 to 40 (hillings an acre. The carting at ESlon-mine is of much fer- vice to the farmers here^ who earn a good deal of money by it. That mine, which is a little beyond, is perhaps the richeft copper mine in Europe. The hill in which it was found, is about 700 feet perpendicular in height. It was difcovered about the year 1739, by a Cor- nijh miner, w^ho pafling over the hill, ac- L 2 cidentally [ 148 3 ciden tally picked up a bit of the ore. The firft adventurers, however, expended more than 13,000/. before they got any returns, and feveral of them gave it up ; the fecond fett were more fortunate. After finking a fliaft of 200 yards deep, and driving an adit, they found great quantities of copper ore, w^hich increafed the lower they de- fcended. At the end of their leafe, the duke took it into his own hands, and for fome years cleared eight or 10,000/. a year; but in 1779 and 1780, the demand was fo great on account of fheathing the men of war with it (then firft ufed) that he worked it to the extent of 30,000/. This mine in itspofition differs from any yet difcovered in any quarter of the world. The copper <]oes not rxm in regular courfes or veins, but finks perpendicularly down, widening and fwelling out as it defcends, in form of a bell. The miners work fix hours at a time for one (hilling ; women, by tafk, earn from 4^. to Sd. a day 5 girls and boys from 2^. to 4^^. A great number are employed^. At the bafe of the hill is an adit, by which you may go a confiderable way into s The Gentleman's Maguzi?:e for 1769, p. 59, has a par- ticular account of this mine. the C H9 ] the mountain, but to defcend to the lower part, requires a refolution which every one does not poflefs ; and indeed it is a work of hazard to fuch as are not accuftomed to that mode of travelling. If too much of the day is taken up in this excurfion, to return to Matlock w^ith con- venience (which may be the cafe by going to Dovedale and Ilam only) very good ac- commodations may be had 2it AJJohtirn -y and the celebrated pidture of RaphaeFs, at Oke-- overy fuppofed to have been one of the col- lection of Cha. 1, may be feen the next morning. The church of Afloburn was dedicated to St. Ofwald^ by Hugh de FatijhulU Bifhop of Coventry y in 1241, as appears by an in- fcription on a brafs plate, found on repair- ing the church feme years ago^, which is as follows; Anno ab incarnatione Dni Mccxlj viij*" ke Maij dedicata eft h^Ec eccia hoc altare confecratum in honore lei Ofwaldi regis & martiris a venerabili patre dno Hu- gone de Patifliull Coventrenfi Epifcopo. In the Harlein MS. n" i486, fo. 49, b. is a copy of this infcription (differing in a few letters only) which is there faid to be written in an old Saxon charafter, in brafs. ^ A fac limile of which is in the Gent, Mag, Sept\ 1772. L 3 in [ ISO ] in Mr, Cokaynes houfe at Apburn, There is no date to the memorandum. It is remarkable that the Bifliop fhould be ftiled of Coventry only. The manor of AJJjbtirn with that of Wirkefworth was given by King John to William Ferrers Earl of Derby''. Near Afhburn is Bentley^ the feat of the Beresfords^ who have enjoyed it from the time of the Conqueft. In the church is a monument for one of the family, who had 16 fons, eight of which loft their lives in the glorious battle of Agincourt. The ride to Bakewell is a very pleafant one, by the Great Torr and the village of Matlock. On crofting the bridge, keep the river on the left, which accompanies the road a confiderable way, fometimes near, fometimes farther oft'j on the other fide of it a variety of hills rife in fucceffion, various in form and colour, fome pafture, fome corn, fome heath. The clergyman's houfe at Darley^ fj^'^g the bottom, has a neat ^nd chearful appearance. On feveral of the hills plantations have been made, which are now getting up, and on others are natural w^oods. In dift'erent dales villages are feenj^ particularly Winjlery and innumerable cot- ^ Pugd, Ba\\ V. I, p, 260. tages [ I tages are fcattered on the fides of the hills, which greatly enliven the fcene. Culture is generally extended to the tops of the mountains ; nor are even the maffes of flone, which in many places lie fo thick as feemingly to render all attempts of the plough fruitlefs, able to flop the hand of induftry. The miners employ thofe hours which are not fpent in fubterraneous work, or neceflary refrefhment, and that fkill which they acquire from their profeffions, in clearing the ground for the ploughs, and it repays the labor. At Roojley Bridge^ the right hand road goes diredly to Chat/worth ^ the left, croffing the bridge, to BakewelL About a mile on this fide Bakewelly Haddon Hall pre- fents its venerable front, on the fide of a hill, overlooking the little river IVye, and fome exceeding rich paftures, reckoned the finefi: in the country. The houfe is cafi:el- lated, and confifts af two courts, round which the apartments and offices are built. Over the door of the great porch, leading into the hall, are two coats of arms, cut in flone; the one is Vernon, the other is Fulco de Pembridge, Lord of Tong, in Strop-- JJoire, whofe daughter and heir married Sir Richard Vernon, and brought him a great L 4 efiate* f .52 ] ■ eftate. In the fouth front is a gallery, about no feet long, and 17 wide, the floor of which is /aid to have been laid with boards cut out of one oak, which grew in the park. In the middle is a large recefs, with a window, and feveral other great bow windows. In one of them are the arms of Englandj circled with the garter, and fur- mounted with a crown. In another are thofe of the Earl of Rutland^ impaling Ver- non with its quarteririgs, and circled with the garter. In the fame window are the arms of the Earl of Shrewjbury^y alfo circled with the garter. In a corner of the firft court is the entrance to the chapel, under a low, jQbarp-pointed arch. In the eaft win- dow were portraits of many of the Vernon family, parts of which ftill remain, but a few years ago the heads were ftolen from them. A date of Millejimo ccccxxvij is le- gible. In the north window the name Rd-^ wardus Vernon^ and his arms, remain j and in a fouth window is Willmus TLruJfelL In a dark part of the chapel ftands the Roman altar, dug up near Bakewell^ on which, ac- ^ Sir Henry Vernon married a daughter of John the fecond Earl cf Shre^JBury^ A very curious and accurate de- fcription of this houfe is given by Mr, iT/;;^, in the 6th vol, 0^ Archceolagia, p. 346. cording [ 153 J cording to Camden^ is the following in- fcription : Deo Marti Braciac^ Ofitius Caeciliaii Prefed: Tro . . . V S The rooms (except the gallery) are dark and uncomfortable, and give no favorable idea of our anceftors tafte or domeflick pleafures ; yet was this place for ages the feat of magnificence and hofpitality. It was at length quitted by its ow^ners, the Dukes of Rutland^ for Belvoir Cajiky m JLincolnfldire. For many generations it was the feat of the Vernons. Prince Arthur y fon of Hen, 7, ufed to vifit Sir Henry Vernon at this place. Sir George^ the laft heir male, who lived in the time of Queen 'Elizabeth^ gained the title of King of the Peak, by his generofity and noble manner of living. His fecond daughter carried this eftate in marriage to John Manners, fecond fon of the firft Earl Rutlandy which title afterwards defcended to their pofterity. For more than 100 years after the marriage this v/as the principal re(idence of the family, and the neighbour- hood [ 154 ] hood did not feel the lofs of their old pa- trons. So lately as the time of the firft Duke of Rutland (fo created by Queen Anne) feven fcore fervants were maintained, and during 12 days after ChriftmaSj the houfe was kept open with the old Englijh hofpitality. This nobleman was fo fond of the country that he rarely left it, and when he married his fon to Lord Rujfeirs daughter, made it an article in the fettle- ment that fhe (hould forfeit part of the jointure if fhe ever lived in town without his con fen t. What would a modern lady fay to fuch a ftipulation ! The charadter of this nobleman was truly great, and he re- ceived the noblefl pleafure in the enjoyment of the love and refpedl of his neighbours, and the bleffings of the poor. Can the fafhionable round of difUpation, in the town in winter, at the watering places in the fummcr, afford a heart-felt fatisfaftion equal to this ? Bakcwell is at the foot of the hills; the church with a handfome fpire flanding on a little eminence makes a good appearance. The font in it is of great antiquity. And at the weft end is a Saxon arch, exhibited in plate II. In one of the chancels is a raifed toinb for Sir George Vernon and his two wives, [ 155 J wives, with their figures at full length on it ; and againft the wall are two magnificent monuments of alabafter, one for Sir "John Manners and Dorothy his wife, daughter and coheirefs of Sir George Vernon the other for Sir George Manners and his wife (who eredled it in her life-time) and their four fons and five daughters, with all their figures. In the eafl chancel is a fmall raifed tomb of alabafter, for John Vernon^ fon and heir of Henry Vernon y who died 12 ^ug^ ^^77' The letters of the in- fcription were originally raifed, but having been damaged, are now let into the flab, the old form of them being preferved. In the church-yard is an ancient ftonc crofs, faid to have been brought hither from fome other place. Plate III. reprefents the fculpture on it. On the top of Fig. is fomething like St. George with the dragon under his horfe's feet. The houfe which was formerly the Angel Inn, and had a bath in it, is now a private houfe, and the bath is deftroyed. This place is now only a vicarage, worth about 8o/. a year, being an impropriation to the Dean and Chapter of Litchjield ; but it is a very extenfive parifh, comprizing feven chapels of eafe, fome of which are worth C 156 ] worth 40/. and 50/. a year, or more, ta which the vicar appoints : Buxton^ 14 miles off, is one of them. At the Reformation, as much land and tythes were fold off, by the Dean and Chapter, at frnall referved rents, as it is computed are now worth 3000/. a year. On the right hand of the bridle-road from hence to Chatfworthy is a fquare plot in a pafture, with a tumulus in it, which is hollow at the top, a few thorns growing on it. This was part of the caftle built by Edward the Elder, in 924 ^ which was of great extent, as appears by foundations oc~ calionally difcovered ; but there is not now a ftone of it to be feen. From this fpot is a delightful view of the town, the valley, the river, the meadows, and the oppolite hills. Near the foot of the caftle-hili a copper bolt head, an in- ftrument difcharged from fome engine, was lately found, covered with a green cruft. Near two miles beyond Bakewell is a vil- ^ The words In Gib/on^ s Saxon Chron. under that year are, Porrexit inde (i. e. a Snoiingham) in Feaclond ad Bade- can^ivyllajn (i. e. Bakewell) & jufTit exaediiicari urbem in ejus vicinia, & priefidio firmari." p, no. From the name of Badecan^ylla it may be conjectured that the bath here had been in ufe long before this time ; probably made by the Romans, lage [ 157 ] lage called AJJoford in the Water ; on rifing the hill beyond it (in the road to Tidfwell) a wall guards a precipice on the left, from whence is a moll enchanting fcene. The bottom is a narrow dale, called Monfall Dale^ running between the mountains on your left hand, and, oppofite to the place where you ftand, winding round the corner of a projecting hill, and at length loll: be- hind another, which feems to clofe the vale. It is watered by the lively little river Wye, which riling near Buxton^ about lo miles off, finds its way between the hills, and runs through this dale, by Ajhford^ Bake welly and Haddon Hall, into the D^r- we?it. The defcent from the point of view is fteep and abrupt; at the bottom ftands a farm houfe, in a mod pidurefque lituation, fhaded by fome trees, and juft by is a rullic wooden bridge over the flream, reiling on fome rocks, and forming a communication with the oppofite ground. The river runs through meadows mixed with a few corn fields, fometimes of a confiderable width, fometimes narrowed by banks ornamented with fine trees ; widening again it runs round a fmall ifland ; here it breaks over rocks, there it Heals foftly along, and twilling in a thoufand meanders, is at 3 length C 158 ] length loft behind the point of a hill, but the found of a confiderable fall of its waters is heard. The fide of the left hand hill, which is very fteep, is in fome parts of the fineft turf, in others covered with under- wood, from the brow to the water's edge. The projedling hill, which is oppofite, is of green turf, and after rifing to fome heighth, becomes nearly flat; its plain is adorned with Angle trees difperfed over it, after which it rifes again. A horfeman may crofs the water by the farm houfe, and will find a track on his left, by which he may pafs through this little vale to Afhfordy and fo return to Bakewell ; and by going this way will gain a fight of the waterfall, which is well worth vifiting. The Duke of Devonjhire^ v/ho is owner of this fairy dale, has often brought the dutchefs to enjoy the beauties of it. If you have an inclination to go up this dale, and trace the ftream towards its fource, you come to a point of land, where the Wye receives another little ftream, which rifes on Wardlaw Moor \ on this laft ftream is a place called Bright Fooly to which peo- ple fometimes go to bathe, though it is no- thing more than apart of the rivulet deeper than the reft ; but the water of it is fup- X pofed [ 159 1 pofed to poffefs fome medicinal qualities. Higher up is a fmall fall of the current over the rock, not worth the trouble of going through the bufhes to fee. At the point of land above mentioned, a gentleman to whom it was allotted on an inclofure, has made a large plantation of lavender, peppermint, and other aromatic herbs, and fet up a diftillery of them. This is called Crefsbrook Dale^ and if the wood was pro- perly cleared away, I am told it would be a Dove Dale in miniature. At Apyford a confiderable work is carried on in polifhing black marble, dug there, and brown or yellow brought from Money-- aJJjj and other places, about three miles off. About the year 1748, one Mr. Watfon ereded the mill for this purpofe, the me- chanifm of which is very ingenious, and was his own invention. The machines are moved by wheels turned by the flream, and faw, level and polifh, different pieces at the fame time. The black marble takes fo fine a polifh that the flabs have the appear- ance of looking glafs. The grey is full of fea fliiells, and refembles that found in fome parts of Siiffex. Two miles from Bakewell, in the Shef-- field road, is HaJJop^ a handfome feat of Mr. Eyrey [ i6o ] ^yrCy in whofe family it has been from the 13 Hen. 7, when it was purchafed by his anceftor of Sir Robert Plompton^ of Plomp^ ton He purfues a plan begun by his fa- ther, of making large plantations of trees. The walks in them are pleafant and well kept. He has built a green-houfe and hot-houfe. Of all the amufements which a plentiful fortune enables a man to enjoy, there is I perhaps none fo rational as that of planting. It is not only aprefent pleafure, but a future profit j not only a private advantage, but a public benefit. Inftead of decaying, like the works of art, a plantation improves with years, and the longer a man lives, the greater the beauty and value of his woods. Nor is it for pofterity only that the planter works, many forts of trees may be cut for profit in the compafs of a moderate life ; neither is the pleafure derived from it con- fined to himfelf, every paffenger partakes of it. Let any one who has travelled through the uninclofed counties fay how chearful, after paifing a long trad: of common field land, is the appearance of the few home- fteads around the little village, their hedges adorned with trees, and fheltering the cot- tages of the inhabitants ! ^ HarL MS. i486, fo. 49. Hardwick i t6i ] Hardwick Hally a noble old feat of the Duke of Devonjhirej is about ten miles from Matlock. The way is, through the village^ turning on the right when over the bridge, and then the road inclines to the left. Pafs fome barren commons, and over an ex- ceeding hilly road, into a rich country. At about ten miles the hall is feen on a high hill, like a caftle in the midft of a wood. It was brought into the Devonjhire family by the Countefs of Shrewjbury (mentioned at Derby) who built it near the fpot where the old manfion flood, part of which is ftill remaining i but much of it was pulled down, and the timber ufed in building the prefent houfe at Chat/worth. In Kemietfs Memoirs of the Cavendifh Family, he fays, -that one of the rooms in this old houfe w^as of fuch cxail proportion, and fuch convenient lights, that it was thought fit for a pattern of aiea- fure and contrivance of a room in Blenheim ; but he does not fay what room. William Earl of Devonjhirey great grandfon of this lady, refided here, and by his weight and influence contributed very much to the Revolution. King William raifed him to the title of Duke, and honored him w^ith the higheft employments. He was a firm M and [ l62 ] and fteady patriot; the infcription which he ordered for his tomb is remarkable : Willielmus dux Devon Bonorum Principum jidelis fubditus^ Inimicus & Invifus tyrannis. The houfe is built of ftone, dug out of the hill on which it flands, and has a lofty tower at each corner, and a fpacious court in the front. Going through a large hall, a grand ftair-cafe Idads to the apartments on the firft floor. At the head of the ftair-cafe is the chapel and the dining-room, in which are feveral family pidtures. The Countefs of Sbrewjhury in a clofe black drefs, a double picked ruff, long chain of five rows af pearls, reaching below her waift, lleeves down to her wrifts, turned up with fmall picked white cuffs, a fan in her left hand, her hair brown. Charles Cavendifi^ brother to the third Earl of De'vo77jhire. Charles Cavendifh^ brother to the firft Duke, taken when he was afleep. Williamy the firft Duke, in armour. Sir Harry Cavendijh^ brother to the fe- cond Duke. Johfz Lord Burleigh^ fon to A?2n, Countefs of Exeter. Elizabeth [ ] 'Elizabeth Countefs of Devonjhire. A head, by fome called that of Erafmus^ but the Cavendijh arms are on it, and other arms, in (ingle fliields. Robert Cecily third fon to William^ fecond Earl of Salifouryy a fmall whole length. Lord Treafurer Burleigh. Sir William Cavendijh, the hulband of this lady, at 42, in a fur gown, long picked beard, whifkers, fmall flat cap, glove in hi? left hand. One of the Countefs's hulbands (which of them is not known) in black cloaths and cloak, large plaited ruff, fmall picked beard and whifkers. A head, faid to be of Sir Francis Bacon. Over the chimney are the Countefs's arms, in a lozenge, and underneath are thefe words y The conclujion of all things is to fear God, and keep his comma?2dments. E. S. 1 597. From this room a pallage, open to the hall, leads to the drawing room, which is wainfcotted about lix feet high, - and above that hung with tapeftry. In this room is a pidlure of the Countefs, where £he appears in a more advanced age than fhq did in that which is in the dining- room ; the drefs is black, the fame chain of pearls, a large ruff with hollow plaits, a M 2 kind [ i64 ] kind of figured gauze veil comes over her hair to the forehead in the middle, but leaves the fides of her hair uncovered, and hangs down behind ^ her hair is here of a golden color. Quere, therefore, as the hair in the other portrait is brown, whether they are both meant for her. From this pidurc Vertue engraved his print of her. Over the chimney are her arms, in a lozenge, with two ftags for fupporters, and underneath are thefe lines, alluding to the great fortune file brought ; Sanguine Cornu Corde Oculo Pede Cervus et aiire Nobilis at claro ponder e nobillor. Beyond this are three bed-rooms, in one of which is a bed worked by the ^een of Scots, when llie was here under the care of the Earl of Shi^ewfoury ; it is in filks worked on canvafs, and then fet on black velvet. The chairs and hangings are alfo by her. In the latter is a figure adoring the crofs, and 12 whole lengths, females, vnth the names over them, of ConJianSy Artemijiay Pietasy Chajiit-y, Lucre tidy Liberality , Per- feverancey PenelopCy Patience, Magnanimity , Zenobiay Prudence. Another flight of flairs leads to the ftate apartments. On the flair- cafe here is a whole length of the firft Duke on [ ] on horfeback, in an embroidered coat, a large wig, and a feather in his hat. The flate room, in which the firft Duke ufed to have his levees, is very lofty, 63 feet long, 33 wide; and at the upper end of it is a ch^^ir of flate, under a canopy. It is hung with tapeftry to fome height, over whicli is colored ftucco, reprefenting the court of Diana, hawks, dogs, &c. The ftate drawing-room is hung with tapeftry. Over the chimney is the ftory of Abraham offering up Ifaac, in the fame fort of ftucco as in the laft room. Adjoining to this is the ffate bed-room, and the bed-room of the ^een of Scots. Over the door her arms are carved in wood, with M R in a cypher, and round it, Marie Stewart par la grace de Dieu Koyne DefcoJJe Douariere de France. Creft, a lion ; motto. In my defens. Another bed-room. A gallery, about 195 feet in length, ex- tends the whole of the eaft front, with win- dows in fquare receffes projecting beyond the wall. In this gallery are a great number of portraits of royal and noble perfonai^es, many of them hurt, and fome entirely de- ftroyed by damps. On the left hand going in is a whole M 3 length [ i66 ] length of Queen 'Elizabeth^ in a gown painted with ferpents, birds, a fea horfe, fwan, oilrich, &c. her hair golden, 'James 5, King of Scots ^ aet. 28, Mary^ his feeond wife, act, 24, in one piece. Sir Thomas More, in a fur gown, and black cap. Hen. 4. 6. 7. 8, William^ fecond Earl of Salijbury. Mary the Firfl of England. The Countefs of Shrewjhury, a half length, a black gown faced with ermine, a ruff with fmall plaits, three chains of pearls^ interfperfed with gold ornaments, not hang- ing very low ; her hair yellow. Edw. 6. Sir William Cavendifloy as in the othe^ room, aet. 44. Henry 8. Thomas flohbesy lEt. 89. Cardinal FooL James i. when a boy, in a very aukward drefs. Henry 8. One of the CavendiJIoeSy xt. 25. Queen Elizabeth. Stephen Gardiner. James i. tet 8, a^ 1574^ hawk on his hand. George [ ] George T^alboty Earl of Sh?^ewjbu7yy a3t. 58, a° 1580. Maria D. G. Scottce piiffima regina, Francice Doweria anno ostatis regni 36 Ang- licce captiviae lo, Amongft thofe next the windows, which are almoft defaced, are Arabella Stuarfy Lord Darnley^ Sir "Thomas Wyatt^ and King 'Richard the 3d. f The duke fometimes fpends a few weeks here in the fummer, and indeed the litua- tion is a very noble one. To make the excurfion to Chat/worthy the pleafanteft, tho' not the neareft ride, is by Bakewell. Turning on the right hand in the town, crofs the river, and afcend the hill by a bridle road, going by the fite of the caftle, mentioned before ^ this hill is very fteep, but from the fide of it the town, the river, and the meadows, prefent .a very pleafing landfcape. From the de- fcent on the oppofite fide. Chat/worth is feen in the bottom, with its woods and numerous additional plantations made by the late duke, the tops of the fi:ony and barren hills (hewing themfelves behind it. It does not appear to advantage from hence, as the vale is fo narrow, that the lawn in the weft front is hardly diftinguilhed, and M 4 the [ i68 J the woods behind feem to rife clofe to the houfe. At the entrance of the park a handfome houfe is built by the duke for his chaplain (who has the living of the place) on the fpot where the inn, called Edejifor (pro- nounced £;?/^r) inn, lately floods and the inn is removed to the left of the village/ in the road from Matlock (which pafles thro' part of the park) to Bafslow and Tidf" well. In the way to the houfe, crofs the river Derwenty by a very elegant ftone bridge of three arches, ereded by Mr, Paine 'y the fculpture is the work of Cihber ^ thofe in the niches of the piers are of fta^ tuary marble, the others of ftone from a neighbouring quarry. On the left of this, by the river fide, hid by trees, is the re- main of an old fquare tower, moated round, called Mary Queen of Scots bower, or garden, from a garden which there ufed to be on the top of the tower, in which {he probably was allowed to amufe herfelf. So much has been faid of this houfe, at a time when there was no houfe in the coun- try to be compared with it, that it is no wonder if the vifitor is difappointed. It was built in the reign of JVillia?72 3. and is certainly magnificent, but you look in vain for C 169 ] for thok beautiful produdions of the pen- cil, which now fo frequently adora the feats of our nobility and gentry ; a few whole length portraits in one of the ftate apartments are nearly all you fee. The chapel is elegant, and there is a good deal of the exquifite carving of Gibboriy who loft his life here in putting it up, by a fall from a fcafFold : in the library, which is feldom opened, are a few antiques. The manner in which you are Ihewn the houfe, does not pi^ejudice you much in its favor* Nor can I fay any thing in praife of the garden, as it is now kept \ the conceits in the water- works might be deemed won- derful when they were made, but thofe who have contemplated the water«falls w^hich nature exhibits in this country, and in various parts of the kingdom, will re- ceive little pleafure from feeing a tempo- rary ftream falling down a flight of lleps, fpouted out of the mouths of dolphins or dragons, or fquirted from th^i leaves of a copper tree. The little current in the wood above, which defcends in a per- petual rill from the refervoir on the hills, W'Ould, if properly exhibited, furnifli a much more pleaflng fcene, tho' it could not be faid to be in the flile of the houfe, mag- [ I magnificent. The walks which lead to the higheft part of the wood, are clofe, without openings to let in views of the country, or of particular objedls, and yet in many parts the underwood is cut down for ufe, clofe to the v/alks, which has a very difagreeable appearance. At the point of the wood is a building, called the Hunting Tower, probably intended to fur- nifh a fight of the hunters on the fur- rounding hills, but it does not now anfwer the purpofe, the trees being in fome parts grown fo high as to intercept the view. It is a fquare, with a rounded tower at each angle, two Tories above tht ground floor, the top leaded, about 90 feet high in the whole. There is a better view to the weft and north, before coming to it^^ than there is from the building itfelf, ow- ing to the growth of the trees, and a very fine one this is. The houfe, the park, the river, the kitchen-garden (of fix acres) lie immediately below ; beyond is Mr. Eyresy at HaJJopj with the plantations about his houfe ^ BafsloWy Stony Middlet on diftinguiilied by the fmoak of its lime- kilns \ and Stoke-hallj with the barren hills called Bafslow-barrow y forming a contraft to the other cultivated parts. By [ ^71 1 By a view of Chat/worthy taken by Knyff-\ ^nd engraved by Kip, about the year 1709, it appears that the wood extended only to the foot of the hill where this tower flands, except that there were two fmall round clumps near the farther end ; tho' the whole is now covered, and many of the firs are of confiderable fize, fo that the profpect was then clear and uninterrupted. From hence the date of the plantation may be nearly afcertained. Above the wood is level ground, in which is a large nurfery of firs, oaks, &c. removed hither from the warmer nurfery below, by way of being hardened for the ilill colder climate of the bleak hills, which rife beyond, and where the duke is making a plantation of about 120 acres. He plants about 20 acre5 of it in a year with Scotch fir, oak, and larch, of three years old. The ground is trenched a foot or 16 inches deep, the turf thrown at bot- tom, the earth on that, and then the trees are planted at about three feet diftance. This work is done from Chrijlmas io April. By being planted fmall, the roots get good hold of the ground before the wind has much pov/er over them, and afterwards they jQioot with great ftrength. It [ 172 ] It is on thefe hills that the refervoir is made which fupplies the water-works and the houfe ; it contains about i6 acres. Return by a boundary walk near the outfide of the prefent woods, and crofs the rill from the refervoir, which defcends very fwiftly for about loo yards to the water-temple, and might be (hewn to much advantage. Pafs by fome pieces of water to the grand canal, which is 325 yards long, and 25 broad, and is on the fpot where originally flood a hill, which was removed to open a view to the country. Here are fome fine trees, and from hence Bafslow- barrow fliews its naked top over the houfe. A wood on the high parts of it, not hiding the whole of the ground (or rather rock) would have a good effed:, but it is not the property of the duke. From the end of this canal there is a noble terrace walk leading to the houfe, feparated by a baluftrade from a walk in a fhrubbery be- low, which is parted by a funk fence from the park, and has a fine flope down to. the river, with a view of that and the bridge. The baluftrade and the underwood fpoil that view from the terrace. The great ftables are magnificent and well contrived. The weft and north fronts extend C 173 ] extend 202 feet ; the centre part of the fouth front contains landings for twenty- one horfes ; there are two ftables for feven hunters each, and two for three each ; a three ftall ftable for ftallions ; a farrier's £hop, other workfhops, lodges for the do- meftics, and different offices adjoining. Be- fides this, there is ftabling for thirty-fix horfes in the buildings adjoining to the houfe. Thefe fi;ables and the bridge were built about 1760, The alterations made in the grounds by the late duke, were, under the diredion of Mr, Lancelot Brown In returning to the inn, you may go on the right hand, when over the bridge, and from fome round clumps of trees fee all that fide of the park. A new gate is made here, v/hich comes out jufl by the inn. By going to the high ground on the left fide of the park, above the road from Mat- locky that part is feen to advantage, and it is the moft beautiful, the trees being finer, and better difperfed. However little the noble owner may be inclined to lay out his money in difpofing his grounds according to the modern fimple Paine* s Flans, Sec. J and [ 174 ] nnd beautiful ftile, he is not backward^ when he is here, in diftiibuting it to the diftreffed. The poor, the widow, and the fatherlefs, blefs that providence which has bellowed fuch wealth on one fo ready to re-* lieve their wants. The landlord of the inn at the jpark gate is an intelligent, fenllble man, and can fui:- nifli very good accommodations. To fee the Peak^ &c. a lodging will be wanted either at Cajileton^ or at T^idfwelh^ the latter is much the moil comfortable, and the ufage at the George is very civil, in a plain flile. If the traveller dines at Eden- foTy he fhould fleep at Tidfwelly and go to Cajileton in the morning. The road to either, from Edenfor inn, is by Middleton-dale y crofs the river by a bridge at BafsloWy another at Caher^ and then come to Sto?ty Middletoriy where the unufual figure of the church, or rather chapel,^ which is an odlagon, ftrikes the eye. Over the town is feen the fmoak of the numerous kilns, ufed for burning the rocks into lime for manure, by means of which the moft barren of thefe hills are fertilized. Thefe kilns are built at the foot of the rocks, from which the ftone is got tp be burnt 3 they work only in the fummer^ [ ^75 3 fummer, except one, which is conftantly employed in burning lime for a fmelting cupola here. It takes up two days to burn a kiln ; the lime is drawn out at bottom, and fold for two-pence a flrike, or buflieL The men earn from eight to ten fhillings a week. Small carts bring a load of flack (the fmall part of the pit-coal) from about Sheffield and Chejlerjieldy and receive for it a load of lime. Three ftrike of lime are confidered as a load, and from forty to fifty loads are laid on an acre. Coals are fold here for fix-pence the hundred weight. The lime-fi:one is one mafs of fliells, all of the cockle and oyfi:er kind''. The chapel is a chapel of eafe to the church of Hatherfage^ v/as rebuilt in 1759, and is very neat in the infide. Land letts from a guinea to fifty flnllings an acre. Little wheat or barley is grown, but large quantities of barley and malt are brought from Wirkfop and Mansfield^ for the Manchejler carriers, who come hither to receive it. In this place is a tolerable inn, called ^he Man in the Moon and on the north fide the town there is a bath, called St. Martin s, nearly as hot as that at Buxton^ « Short, p, 9S. 5 ^ bubbling [ 176 ] bubbling up continually like that ; it h enclofed by four walls, but is open at the top, and has been ufed by poor people with good fuccefs in rheumatic cafes. Near this a drinking warm fpring rifes out of a rock, and falls on the earth below, having no bafon to receive it. There are alfo three perpetual warm bubbling fprings on the weft fide the church-yard. Thefe warm waters, like thofe at Matlock^ are petre- fying^. There is alfo a chalybeate fpring here In the lead-mines on the other fide the mountain, above thefe fprings, and about two fathoms above the lead ore, was a bed of Boulder-Jlonesy anyone of which being broken, is found to contain from half a pint to a gallon of foft bitumen like Bar-- badoes tar ; it melts before the fun or fire to oil. There were alfo feveral fprings in the mines, that took fire with a candle, and would burn a week or fortnight ; and all the water drilling thro' this ftratum of Boulder-jioneis will take fire, and burn many days. This bed was continued between two and three miles all along Hucklewedge, with its burning waters. The firft dif- P S/jort^s Hiflory of Waters, p. 94, 102. ^ Ibid. p. 280, * Qu. If this is the rock oil, or fairies butter, men- tioned by Mr. Pennant y in his Tour in Wales y 1773, p. 421. covery C ^77 3 covery of thefe ftones happened by a work- man's breaking one of them ; the outfiue was only a fliell of ftone, filled with a foft matter, in which he ftuck his candle, which burning down to this fubftance, it melted and burnt, and was then a fine clear bal- fam, without fmell, except thrown into the fire. When cooled, it hardened like fine fat, and at firfi: was ufed for greafing boots and flioes, but was found to fhrivcl them up. On the north fide the mountain, oppofite thefe fprings, is a mine which cannot be worked, for in picking or ftriking the ore, the fudden fhaking of the metal gives fiich a violent motion to the fulphur, that it makes an explofion like fired gunpowder, fo as great lumps rife and fly about This is the entrance of Middieton-daky thro' which the turnpike road runs. It is a narrow valley, or rather cleft, between lofty rocks, which feem to have been rent by fome great convulfion of nature^ they are moftly bare, or with a few fcattered bufhes, or trees. In confirmation of the opinion that the rocks have been torn afunder, it has been obferved that the veins of lead in the mines on one fide, have cor- Short, p. 97* N refponding [ ] refponding veins in the fame dire6lion, on the other. A ftreamlet runs down by the fide of the road, great part of the way. Where the road turns off to 'Eyam (pro- nounced Erne) Mr, Lofigfioiie has placed a feat on the fummit, has planted fome trees, and made a grotto with fpars, &c. found in the neighbourhood. One Bennefon earns a livelihood here by colleding them, and has a number of fpecimens at his houfe^ In the church-yard of Eyam is a ftone crofs, fuppofed by an eminent antiquarian to be DaniJJj. At the time the great earth- quake happened at Li/horiy on November i, 1755, about ten in the morning, the rocks were fb much diiturbed in the mines here, that foil, &c, fell from their joints or fif- fures, and the workmen heard violent ex- plofions, as it were of cannon. They fled to the furface for fafety, but on venturing down, found nothing material had hap- pened'. There are here fome remarkable caverns. One of them is called Bojfen-hole [Bojj'en lignifies a Badger), but the chief is Bam^ forth-hokj in Charlefwork, a little weft of the former. The following is Dr. Shorfs defcription of it. ^ Whitchurji^ p. 1 89. Charlefivork [ 179 ] Cbarlefwork lies at the foot of a very fleep rock, ninety- three yards high, and five yards above the level of the brook ; its entry is lix yards high, and eight wide, when you walk on for fifty-two yards, and then come to an unpaffable deep ftagnant lake. This cave reaches quite thro* the mountains, and opens into Eyamdale^ which is above half a mile. By another of its grottoes it opens near FgoIow^ which is a mile and half, paffing under Eyam church. Forty-four yards above this is the entry into Ba??2fortb-holey 49 yards from the top of the rock, and as much from the fmall brook 5 the entry is five feet high, then defcending, one {houlder foremoft for 40 yards, you rife up for 13 more, all this way not being above a yard wide. At laft you climb a ftep fix feet high, and enter into the middle of a large cave, where are great variety of ftalactitious petrefadlions. Leaving the cave behind, and going 25 yards forward, you are introduced into a moft magnificent room, nine yards wide, and two high, its roof, fioor and fides all fhining with endlefs numbers and varieties of beautiful tranfparent ftatues, wnth fe- veral regular ranks of fine pyramids, and other curious figures, fome upon pedeilals, N 2 others [ i8o ] Others reaching the roof, others reaching from the roof to the floor. In the middle of this room is a bafon three yards long, and two wide, on each fide of which is a ftately pillar of ftalaftites, one fine poliflied marble, and another in the middle upon a pedefial ; through the bottom of this is a very fmall paflage a few feet down, into another entry, to feveral other caves fi:ill low^er. The roof of this vault is beauti- fully adorned with all kinds of fliells, here generated and' generating y of fundry colors, and no lefs beauty and variety, inter- wrought with m,any other curious figures. A little beyond this is a fine fi:ane pillar fupporting the roof* On the right band of this cave are openings into two others, at ten yards diilance. I went 360 yards into this cave, the fame entertainment and cu- riofity all along, and many other caves going ofi' on all fides, and faw no end of them, tliey going on under the whole mountain ^" Minerals are found in the fiffures, and betv/een the lamina of limeftcne, never in the folid fubftance. The vein is frequently intercepted by what is called toadftone, blackflone, channel, or cat dirt, which ^ Shorty p. 95. runs [ i8i J runs between, and cuts ofF all communi- cation between the upper and lower fif- fures in the limeilone, but being dug through, the vein is always found below it; it is however fometimes of great thick- nefs, from fix feet to 600. Between Graiige-mill and Darley-moor there are found the following fcrata; 1. Millftone grit 120 yards, 2. Shale or Shiver ^ 120 3. Limeftone - 50 4. Toadftone - 16 5. Limefcone - 25 fathoms, 6. Toadilone - 23 7. Limeftone - 30 8. Toadftone - 11 9. Limeftone not cut through. In T^idfw ell-moor^ 600 feet have been funk in the toadftone, without iiading; the end. Mr. Whitehurft conjectures this toad- ftone to be lava, and to have flowed from a volcano, whofe funnel or fliaft did not reach the open air, but difgorged its con- tents betvv^een the ftrata in all dired:ions. He defcribes it to be a blackiih fubftance, very hard; containing bladder-holes, like the fcoria of metals, or Iceland lava, and * Shale is a black laminated clay, containing neither ani- rrjal nor vegetable impreffions, and rarely minerals ; but has iron Hone in nodules, and fometimes ftratiFied. Springs if- fliing from it are of the chalybeate kind, N 3 having [ i82 j having the fame chymical property of re- filling acids 3 he fays, fonie of its bladder-* holes are filled with fpar, others only in part, and others quite empty ; that this flratum is not laminated, but confifis of one entire folid mafs, and breaks alike in all diredions ; that it does not produce any minerals, or figured flones, reprefenting any part of animal or vegetable creation ; nor any adventitious bodies enveloped in it, but is as much an uniform mafs as any vi- trified fubfl:ance can be fuppofed to be ; neither does it univerfally prevail, as the limeftone does. It is not found in the mines at Eyam, Foolow, and Ajhover^ tho' they are funk near 50 fathoms in the lime- ftone ; nor in Rake-minCy near Tidfwell, and - fome other places. In confirmation of this opinion, and of its having been once a li- quid fire, he obferves, that a fi:ratum of clay lying under it in Mojfey-meer mine, near Winjier, of about four feet thick, is burnt a foot deep, as much as an earthen- pot, or brick j that it is perfedly fimilar to Iceland lava in its appearance and chy- mical quality ; that it is variable in its thicknefs, not univerfal, and fills up fif- fures in the ftratum beneath. From the depth which has been funk on Tidfwell- moor without finding the bottom, he thinks 3 that [ ] that might be a mouth of the volcano. As a further proof of there having been fome moft extraordinary convulfion of na- ture in this part of the kingdom, he men- tions the confufion in which the ftrata lie in the mountains of Derbyfhirey and moor- lands of Staffonijljirej adjoining, which ap- pear to be fo many heaps of ruins, parti- cularly in the neighbourhood of EBon^ JVetton^ Dovedaky lianiy and Switha?nly. They are broken, diflocated, and thrown into every poffible direftion, and their in- terior parts are no lefs rude and romantic, for they univerfally abound with fubter- ranedus caverns and marks of violence. The banks on the eaft fide the river jD^r- wenty from CricJo-cUff twenty miles up the river, are covered with fragments of ilone, probably ejedled from their native beds by fubterraneous blafts. At Vtoxeter^ in Staf-- fordjhire^ blocks of limeftone of four or 500 weight each, are dug up, yet there are no quarries of the kind nearer than four or five miles Middleton-dale terminates on the moun- tains of the Peaky bleak, open, and bare of trees ; but even here the fpirit of cultivation has introduced the plough. The extenfive ^ Whitehurft, p. 51, 52. N 4 hills [ 1^4 ] hills are divided by flone walls, and oats are produced. Pafs by Wardlow turnpike ^ at a fmall diftance on the left is a village of that name, thro' which the road runs from BakewelL In making that road in 1759, the workmen took out of an adjoining field a heap of (lones, that had been there time immemorial, and without any tradition concerning it, tho' manifeftly a work of art. On removing them, places were found where the bodies of 17, or more, perfons had been depoiited on flat ftones of about feven feet fix inches long, placed on the furface of the ground ; fmall walls of two feet high were raifed on the fides, and on thefe, other flat fi:ones were laid, but they extended only to the breaft, except the two capital ones, which were walled up, and covered from head to foot, in the form of a long cheft. On removing the rubbifh, many jaw-bones and teeth were found un-^ decayed, but none of the larger bones of the body. The heap of fi:ones that co- vered them w^as circular, 32 yards in dia- meter, and about five feet high ; the ftones forming the cofiins appeared plainly to have been taken from a quarry about a quarter pf a mile diilant. A part of the circle Vv^a^ [ i85 J was vacant, but probably not fo originally, as feveral bones and teeth were found in that fpace. The Rev. Mr. Evatt, of AJhford, who communicated this account to the Royal Society, thinks this monument not to have been very ancient, lefs fo than a wall which is there, and enclofes the field, becaufe that wall cut off a part of the circle, and the part fo cutoff was as level as the reft of the field \ and he apprehends that in building the wall, they would not have taken the pains to remove the ftone in order to carry the wall ftraight^. I confefs I (hould draw a different conclufion from the pofition of the wall, and Ihould think it more likely that they would carry the wall ftraight (efpecially as the flones removed furnifhed materials for it) than that the monument fhould be thrown up on both fides of fuch a wall, and be interfeded by it. About a mile and half beyond JVardlow turnpike, TicIfweU is feen on the left, and two roads turn off on the right ; the neareft, which is a turnpike road, goes from Tidfwell to Sheffield ; the farther leads by an old broken wall, and a few houfes, palled Little Hucklar^ to Cajikton, a tow^n 7 liis exprefiion is, to carry it level.'* at [ i86 ] at the foot of that hill, where is the famous cavern called The DeviFs A — — . The well at "Ttdjkvelly mentioned as one of the wonders of the Peak, is at a diftance from the town, and ebbs and flows at un- cert:^in times ; after great rains, feveral times in an hour; in dry weather, perhaps not once a week^. Eden-hoky another of the wonders, is about three or four miles off, but by no means worth feeing; it is nothing more than the mouth of a very deep chafrn in the earth, walled round, to prevent cattle from falling in. Cotton fays, he founded 884 yards, and found no bot- tom, but it is faid now that the plummet flops at 160 yards. Shorty from the found of ftones thrown in, calculates it to be 422 yards \ A fmall clear ftream runs through the ftreet at Tidfwell except two or three houfes, the buildings are mean, but the church is large. In the chancel is a flat ftone in memory of Johriy fon of Thomas Foljambey mentioned as having done much towards building: the church. The date is 1358. There is alfo a raifed tomb (on w^hich bread is given away every Sunday^) for Samp fon Meurrilly with a date of 1388 ; 2 Shcrty p. 34. ^ Ibid. p. 33. and [ J and another for Robert Furfglove^ defcribed as Prior of Gijhurn Abbey, Prebend of Ro-- therhaniy and Bi(Lop of Hull, who died 1579. He was a native of this town, and furrendered the abbey to Hen. 8. who al- lowed him a confiderable penlion. He was afterwards made provoft or prebend of Ro^ therham college, 'in Torkjhire and in the beginning of Queen Marys reign, was made Archdeacon of Nottingham , aqd fuf- fragan Bifhop of Hull, under the Arch- bifliop of York, and had other dignities. Refufing to take the oath of fupremacy to Queen Elizabeth, he was deprived of his archdeaconry, and other fpiritualities, in 1560, whereupon he retired to this his na- tive place, and founded here a grammar- fchool, adjoining to the church-yard, and an hofpital for 12 poor people; and alfo founded a grammar- fchool at Gipurne"^. In the fouth tranfept of the church is a tomb with whole-length figures of a man and woman, their names not known. Return about a mile of the road paffed ' over in the way to Tidjhveli, and then turn off by the broken wall, mentioned before. The defcent of the hill to Ca^flleton is long and fleepi A fine vale is feen below, > Wood's Athc7ia Oxen, in [ i88 3 in which is a town with a handfome fpire, feeming to be the objed: of your journey; but at the point of the hill, a fhort turn- ing to the left leads by a ftill ileeper road to Cajiletorjy which appears on turning this point 5 the other town is called Hope. At this point are fome objeds to be at- tended to. The vale below is of confi- derable w^idth, fertile, and divided into corn-fields and paftures, watered by a ri- vulet, which fliews itfelf here and there. On the range of hills which rife on the cppofite fide (and ftretch away on the left to Cajlletojiy terminating in a point called Mam-Torr) near to Hope is a pointed knob, almoft circular-, round which is a trench; and nearer to Cajileton is another, lefs con- fpicuous ; the former is called Win-hill^ the latter Loofe-hilly from the event of a battle faid to have been fought between two par- ties poiled here, but who they were, or when it happened, the people cannot give any information. At a dip of thefe hills, near Hope^ the entrance of another dale is feen, which runs behind them, and is called Edale. Mam-Torr is diftinguifhed by an abrupt precipice of brown ftone, with a large area on the top, inclofed with a double trench, running up to the edge of [ i89 ] of it. The vulgar ftory is, that this hill is continually crumbling, without being diminiflied, and it was therefore reputed one of the wonders ; they call it T^he Shi- ^oeri72g Hilly from the fliivers of ftone brought down by the frofl. That it is diminifhed, and mofl: vifibly fo, I {hall mention more particularly by and by. A more wonderful thing here is a rich lead mine, which, tho' it has been worked much longer than any other which is known (per- haps from the time of the 'Danes being here) ftill abounds with ore, and furnifhes employment for about one hundred people, Cajileton is a fmall, poor town, at the foot of a hill, which rifes with a very fteep afcent, the caftle ftanding at the top of it. This hill is feparated from one which rifes flill higher, by a deep and narrow valley, called I'he Cave, or CovCy which runs on two fides of it; another fide is defended by the tremendous preci- pice, which hangs over the entrance of the great cavern; but there is a narrow neck of land at the fouth-weft corner of the caftle, which runs over the mouth of the cavern, and joins to a pafture, called Calow Pajture; fo that the caftle was only acceffible by the fteep afcent from the town, or bv this neck of [ ^9^ ] of land. It was, however, little calculated for defence, except againft any fadden af- fault, being too fmall to hold any great number of men, and there are no marks of there having been any well in it j and un- lefs they had fome contrivance to get water out of the cavern below (of which there is no trace) it does not appear how they could be fupplied, if an enemy was in pof- feffion of the town. It was however ufed as a fortification by the barons in King "Johns time, and was taken from them in the 1 6th of that king, by William Ferrers ^ Earl of Derby, (great grandfon of Mar- garet y daughter and heir of V/illiain P^- ^erell) who held the governorfhip of it fix years'. In the j Hen. 3. the cuftody of it was given to Bryan de L'ljle, a per- fon much trailed by Henry. It was again granted to him in the 13th, and again in the 1 6th of that king^ The valley winds amongft the mountains for the length of a mile, being moftiy narrow at the bottom, but oppofite the caftle was 200 yards over. Tradition fays, that this caftle was built by William Peverell, natural fon of the Conqueror, who once fpent a Chrijlmas here. Mr. King thinks it of much earlier date, ^ Dugd, Bar, v. i. p, 261. Ibid. v. i. p. 737. but [ 191 ] but it is certain that Peverell it at the time of the furvey, by the name of the Cajlle of Pekey with the honor and forefl, and 14 lordfliips in this county, befides a great many in NottinghamfnirCy and other counties \ It feems to have been fome- times called the Cajlle of Hope ^ as Jobny Earl of Wa?^re?2 and Surrey^ was made go- vernor of that caftle in 28 Ed. x. and it is not know^n that there v/as any one in that place. In 4 Edw. 2. JobiZy the grandfon and fuccellbr of this earl, had a grant of the caftle and honor of Peke, in Derby/hire^ with the whole forefc of High Peke^ in as ample m a n 0 e r as William P ever ell "^nQiQuily enjoyed the fame before it came to the King oi England by efcheat^ Pezjerellis faid to have held a grand tournament here, at which a King of Scotland and Prince of Wales were prefent. This cafiie and forefl ap- pears to have been part of the fortune given with Joan, fifter of Edw. the 3d. on her marriage with David ^ Prince of Scotland ^ Dugd, Bar. V. I. p. 436. f Ibid. v. I. p. 8l. ^ A° II. £. 3. Eiiz. que fuit ux Tho — Menerell tenuit die quo obiit terciam partem unius mclTuagii & lo acr terre cum pertinentiis in Wormhull in com. Derby de Johanna re- gin a \^AngUs, but this mud be a miilake] ut de cafiro de pecco per ferjantiam vid. per homagium & per fervicium inveniendi unum hominem cum arcu & fagittis in forefra ipfiUS regine de alto peccc Harl. MS. 2223. The [ 1 The common opinion is, that the ftone with which this caftle is built, was brought from a place called Bur-tor^ near HuckloWy by Batham-edgey down Calow-pajiiire, and was conveyed over a ditch of 50 feet wide, and 12 deep, formed by a point of land fhooting out from the pafture into the val- ley, called The Cave, by a drawbridge near the fide of the IJihmus^ to the point of the hill on which the caftle ftands. That the ftone was brought from Bur-tor is indeed certain, for befides the almoft infuperable difficulty of bringing it from the other fide, the ftone there is found on examina- tion to be of the fame fort as that ufed in this building. The path from the town to the caftle is carried in traverfes, to break the fteepnefs of the afcent. A large area, called the Caftle Tardy was inclofed by a ftone wall, run- ning acrofs the hill from eaft to weft, from the cave to the cavern, and from north to fouth, along the fide of each of thofe places, fo as to meet the keep which ftands at the point of a rock, jutting over the mouth of the great cavern, about 261 feet above the water which iflues from thence. This wall, towards the town, is ftiil 20 feet high in fome places, but the ground t 193 3 ground within is moftly level with the top of it. A little diftance from the eafl end of it is a part which is higher, and projeds four or five feet from the wall, the top feeming to have been embattled. Between this and the north-eaft corner the foot of the wall is fupported by a ftone buttrefs; near the north-weft corner, the wall is alfo higher, and in it was a door, or perhaps window, as there is no appearance of fteps on the outfide. From this corner up to the keep, the wall along the edge of the precipice is 10 or 12 feet high. The en- trance to the Cajik Tard was at the north- eaft corner, where was an arched way, as appears by the fouth fide of the arch ftill remaining. The walls of the keep, on the fouth and weft fides, are pretty entire, and at the north-weft corner are now fifty-five feet high ; but the north and eaft fides are much fhattered. On the outfide it forms a fquare of 38 feet two inches, but on the infide it is not equal, being from north to fouth 21 feet four inches, from eaft to weft 19 feet three inches. As I can depend on the accuracy of my friend who meafured it, this difference muft be accounted for from a difi^erence in the thicknefs of the \valls5 which in general are near eight feet. O It [ 194 1 It con filled of two rooms only, one on the ground floor, and one above, over which the roof was raifed, not flat, but with gable ends to the north and fouth, the outer wails riling above it. The ground floor was about 14 feet high, as well as can be difcovered from the rubbifh now fallen on the bottom i the other room was- 16 feet high. There was no entrance to the lower room from the outfide, (what is now ufed as an entrance being only a hole broke thro' the wall at the corner where the fiaircafc is but a flight of fl:eps led to a door in the fouth flde of the upper room, the door being feven feet high, and about four and a half wide. It is faid thefe fteps are remembered to have been there, but are now quite deftroyed. The places where were the hinges of the door, remain, and on one flde is a hole in the wall, in which the bar to fafl:en the door was put. It is now called the bar-hole, is made of fquared ftone, and goes 12 or 14 feet into the wall; on the other fide is a hole to correfpond . with it. In this room is one narrow win- dow over the door, one in the north, and * Mr. Kifig thinks otherwife, and that the fieps leading to the door, began on the eail fide, and went round the cor- ner of the wall. He has paid fuch attention to thefe mat- ters in general, and to this place in particular/ that I dare not difpute his opinion. one [ 195 ] one in the eafl fide ; in the north-eaft and fouth-weft corners, are two places which have the appearance of privies ; in the fouth-eaft corner is a narrow v^indins: ftair- cafe, now in a ruinous condition, which led down to the room below, and up to the roof. Defcending this ftaircafe, the lower room is found to have been lighted by tw^o windows, or loops, one in the north fide, the other in the eaft, each of them being feven feet high, five feet five inches wide on the infide, but narrowing to about four feet high, and feven inches wide on the outfide\ The walls are com- pofed of fmall limeftones and mortar, of fuch an excellent temper, that it binds the whole together like a rock, faced on the outfide and infide wath hewn gritfi:one* Part of that on the outfide, and much of it on the infide, is fi:ill pretty entire; but the landy part of fome of the fiiones has crumbled away, fo as at firfi: fight to ex- hibit an appearance of very rude fculpture ; but within a quarter of an inch of the mortar, at the joints, the fi:one is entire, which may be owing to the effeft of the well tempered mortar on fuch parts as come in contadl with it. In further con- ^ Mr. KL^g has given a large account of this caftle in the 6th vol. of the Jrc/j. p. 247, Sec. O 2 firmation [ 196 ] firmation of this opinion I am alTurecf^ that at Bur-tor there is a ftratum of ftone which moulders away in this manner. On the outfide there is no appearance of any fuch thing ; may we fuppofe the weather to have hardened the ftone there ? Within iide there is in the wall a little herring-bone ornament. This caftle was ufed for keep- ing the records of the Miners Courts, till they were removed to Tiitbury caftle, in the time of Queen Elizabeth. An intrench- ment, which begins at the lower end of the valley, called the Cave^ inclofed the town, ending at the great cavern, and fgrming a femicircle ; this is now called the 'To'wn Ditch^ but the whole of it can- not eafily be traced, having been deftroyed in many parts by buildings and the plough. Here, at Btirghy and at Hope^ are fome chalybeate fprings The celebrated cavern well deferves to be feen, and is vifited without danger, and with much lefs trouble than may be ima- gined by thofQ who have not gone into it. A rock on the left of the entrance, is 75 yards and a quarter high; and diredlly from the caftle wall to the ground, is eighty- nine yards and an half^; the precipice, which flopes down all the way on the left Shorty 277» ^ Ibid. p. 30. hand [ ^97 ] hand from the caftle, is above 200 yards long, that on the right 100. The mouth, in which are a few huts of fome pack- thread-fpinners, is 40 yards wide, and 14 high. At 150 yards from the entrance you come to the firft water, the roof gra- dually Hoping down till it comes within about two feet of the furface of the ftream which paffes thro' the cavern j this water is to be croffed by lying down in a boat filled with ftraw, which is pufhed forward by the guide, who wades thro' the water. You foon come to a cavern, faid to be 70 yards wide, and 40 high, in the top of which are feveral openings, but the candles v/ill not enable the eye to reach their ex- tent. After croffing the water a fecond time, (on the guide's back) you come to a cavern, called Roger Rains Hoiife, becaufe there is a continual dropping of water from the roof. At this place you are entertained by a company of fingers, who have taken another path, and afcended to a place called the Chancel^ confiderably higher than the part you fi:and on, where, with lights in their hands, they fing various fongs. The effedt is very ftriking. In the whole, the water is crofled feven times, but fi:epping^ ftones are fufficient, except at the two firft. O 3 lo ( 198 ] In one place, the ftream is loll: in a quick-* fand, but emerges again. At the diftance of about 750 yards from the entrance, the rock came down fo clofe to the water, that it precluded all farther paffage ; but as there was reafon to believe from the found, that there was a cavern beyond, about four years ago a gentleman determined to try if he could not dive under the rock, and rife in the cavern beyond 3 he plunged in^ but, as was expeded, ilruck his head againfl the rock, fell motionlefs to the bottom, and was dragged out v/ith difficulty. The man who fhews this place, has been at much trouble and fome expence in blowing up the rock, to open a pafHige to this fuppofed cavern, but finds that he has miftaken the courfe, and now means to try in another part. He treated us with an explolion, which rolled like thunder. The water which is found here, is fuppofed to be that which is ingulphed by the fide of the turnpike road, three miles from Cajlle- tGHy in the way to Chapel in Frit by juft by a farm-houfe. On coming out of the cavern, after having been fo long abfent from day-flight, the firft appearance of it has an effed: be- yond description 5 I know not whether a com-! [ ^99 ] comparifon of it with the break of day under a grey fky, interfperfed with fleecy clouds, will convey an adequate idea, but no one can fee it without feeling a mod pleafing fenfation. At the foot of Mam-Torr is another ca- vern, called TVater-hiiUy into which the good-natured Ciceroni will probably en- deavour to prevail on the traveller to de- fcend ; the defcent, how^ever, is very dirty and difficult, and there is not any thing at the bottom worth feeing. They get out of it fome blue-john, ufed by the po- lifhers for making yafes, &c. and petri- facftions, amongll which are forne exadly refembling the bones and fliells of fiflies of various forts, cockles, oyflers, pe6tun- culi, patella, and the nautilus j bodies like the vertebrae, fnails, ftars, fkrews, and va- rious ftriated figures, and pieces of the capfula3 of infeds, like thofe of butterflies. I was told by one who had been in it, that there is, at fome difrance on the other fide of the cafl:le, a cavern in a mine, which, if it v/as not for the very great difficulty of accefs, would be v/ell w^orth viflting ; from his defcription it feemed to refemble, in miniature, the famous grotto of Antiparosy in the Archipelago but, like O 4 that. [ 200 ] that, would require an uncommon fliare of refolution in the vifitor. The hills on the different fides of the town produce ftone of very different qua- lity. Thofe on the fouth, on one of which the caftle ftands, furnifli a ftone which is burnt into lime, and is ufed for a manure; thofe on the north yield a grit-ftone fit for building. The hill on the north appears brown and barren when viewed at a dif- tance, but is, in fad, very good pafture ; the Torkjhire drovers bring their cattle here in the beginning of May, and keep them all the fummer, paying about thirty {hil- lings a head for their feed. It is not very eafy to afcend this hill, but it is worth the labor ; Cafileton-dale fpreads as you afcend, and on gaining the fummit, a fequeftered valley, called Edale, opens to the eye in a beautiful manner ; it is wide and fertile, the inclofures running up the fides of the hills, and yearly increafing. Other fmall dales come into it from between other hills, and their verdure is contrafted by the brown tops of the yet uncultivated ridges. Near the end of one of thefe is the principal part of the village of Edaky and an humble chapel, without fpire or tower. A rivulet runs down by it, Ihew- [ 201 3 ing itfelf in many places, and by the nolle of its fall, direds to a mill placed in a lit- tle grove. Two or three other clumps of houfes, and fmall tufts of trees, and ano- ther ftreamlet falling into this, enliven the fcene. From hence various other dales branch off to what is called T^he Woodland of Derby/hire, through which no high road has yet been made. This tradt is of great extent, but much of it has been cleared of late, and the plough introduced by the Duke of Devonjhirey to whom it moftly belongs. Oats is the only corn they fow on the hills, which they do three years together, if the land is in good condition, otherwife but two, and then lay it down into grafs for fix or feven years. When they break up new ground on the hills, they ufed to lime it only, which is found to kill the heath, and produces a new, fweet grafs; but they now generally denfhire (i. e. pare and burn the fward), plow it for turnips, then fow oats and grafs-feed. Some put on lime after it is laid down into grafs, others; in the turnip crop. The hill which I have juft mentioned as dividing Cajile ton- dale from Edaky confifts pf a long ridge, terminating towards the weft [ 202 ] weft in a broad end, one point of which is called Mam Torr, or the Shivering Moun- tairiy the foot of which is about a mile from Caftleton. On the top of this hill is good mould, two yards deep, then clay three- fourths of a yard ; after that a bed of ihale, and a row of iron-ftone, in their turns, for aboijt 20 yards, but the iron-ftone always thickeft, being often a yard, the other not half fo much ; then begins an intermix- ture of {hale, and a mixt ftone, between iron-ftone and grit-ftone, in beds of the fame thicknefs, which continues to the foot of the "Torr. Thefe ftrata lie hori- zontally, in the moft exad: order. In the upper part it is perpendicular, but in the middle it Hopes. On the top it is about 60 yards broad, at the bottom of the run- ning fhale, about 400 yards \ Weft from this is a limilar breach in the hill, but Imaller, called Little Mam Torr. The perpendicular height of the largeft, as meafured by a friend of mine, is 456 feet ; of the leaft, 243 feet ; but the top of Mam ^orr is faid to be near 1000 feet above the level of CajUeton valley"'. On the top and fides of this hill is a camp, fuppofed to be Koman^ of an oblong form, running from ^ ^hort:^ 3^' Whitehtirfi, p, 153. N. E. [ ] N. E. to S. W. the broad end being to the louth-weft, where Mam Torr forms one pouit, Little Mmn Torr the other; the fmaller end is to the north-eaft, on the ridge which continues on towards Loofe- hill. There has been a double trench all round it, but the fouth corner is broken off by the falling of the earth at Great Mam Toi^ry and the weft by that at Little Mam Torr. The fumniit of the hill is not level, but runs in a ridge nearly from weft to eaft, along which is built a ftone wall, as a pafture fence, nov/ dividing the camp into two parts. The alcent to it is very fteep every way, except at the north-eaft end, where the ditch croffes the ridge. The principal entrance feems to have been at the weft corner, very near the top of Little Mam Torr but there is a track of an old road leading from Mam Gate, up the north fide of the hill, to a gate of about four yards wide at the fmall end of the camp oppofite to the other gateway. There is a third of the fame width, to- w^ards the north-weft fide, going down to Edale. Near the north-eaft corner is a good fpring. At the fouth-weft end are two fmall mounts within the camp. The trench is about 1 6 feet wide at bottom, and in- clofes [ 204 ] clofes fomething more than fixteen acres of ground, the whole circumference being about 1 200 yards. A fketch of it is an- nexed in plate IV. At the foot of Little Mam Torr, near Mam Gate, is a field called Hills Pajiure, taking its name from a number of fmall hillocks irregularly difperfed about it. On the level ground, amongft thefe, the foun- dations of feveral buildings were difcovered a few years ago, which were grown over with grafs ; the ftone was taken up and carried away, to be ufed in other places. The perfon employed about it fays, that the walls were in general from 18 inches to two feet in thicknefs, compofed of ftone, which did not feem to have been hewed fmooth with a chiffel, but dreffed with a pick-axe, juft fufficiently to make them bed together, v/ithout any mortar or ce- ment. There were feveral door threlholds, but no appearance of any ftones marked with fire, to indicate chimnies. Thefe buildings were of various fhape and fize ; one of them was circular, about 24 feet diameter, with an opening for a door way on the fouth fide ; about eight feet wefi: of it was a fmall building, containing three fides of an oblong fquare, one end being open^ [ ] open. The whole inclofed by a wall, fomething in the fliape of a triangle, but not regular ; the longefl: fide about 50 yards. Near this were two other build- ings, nearly fquare, wider at one end than at the other, thefmalleft end being 12 feet, the other three fides 18 feet each; the fmall end of one was to the fouth, of the other to the weft ; the fize of thefe was exactly the fame. At a little diftance from the wide end of each, is a heap of ftone and rubbifh, overgrown with grafs, of about fix feet long, and one high. There were two other buildings confiderably larger, of irregular (hape. Whether thefe had any relation to the camp, I do not know. Nothing was found to fhew the purpofe for which they were originally intended, nor is there any re- membrance of their being in any other ftate than they were found on this occafion, nor any tradition concerning them. From this camp a ditch is carried down the fouth fide of the hill, crofs the valley to MickloW" hilly about three miles off ; and from thence, S. E. by S. crofling the j5^- thom-gate^ and a ftream that rifes at Brad^ welly and runs by Broughy it goes in a ftraight line to ShattoUy or Bradwell-edge, about 2 [ 206 ] about three miles more. It is called the Grey-ditch^ and poffibly was a Prcctentura^ or fore-fence of the Romans''. On the fide of Ma?n Torr Hill it is very vifible ^ in the valley it is loft in many places, the plough having deftroyed it j but from Micklow-hill to Shatton-edgCy it is plainly feen. The Hope or front is towards Brough it is about 20 feet high, and 12 broad at top. There is no tradition concerning it, but pieces of fwords, fpears, fpurs, and bridle- bits, have been found on both fides, and very near it, between Bathom-gate and Bradwell-water . Juft where it crolTes the Bathom-gatCj on the eaft lide of it is a large limeftone rock, called Idintree, or Edentree. It is faid that a King Eddin had a houfe here, but perhaps it is unneceflary to fay that nothing of it remains now. About a hundred yards north of this rock is a faltifh fpring, very clear and cold, of a purgative quality; many poor people have ufed it for bathing and drinking, and found it ufeful in fcorbutic and ulcerous com- plaints. This fpring runs into Bradwell- watery at a part of it vulgarly called Birds- waJJjy a little before it joins the Nooe. Per- « Similar to that mentioned in Morioji's Natural Hiflcry cf NcrthamptonftDzre i p. 526. 2 haps [ ] haps the true name relates to this flation, and is, Burgh-wafo. On the point of land formed by the junftion of thefe two fmall flreams, was the Roman ftation called Broughy or Burgh. The road called Bathom-gatej went from hence to Buxton, and is plainly to be feen for about a mile from Broiigh, running a confiderabie part of the way in a parallel line with the prefent road to Smadale, the hedge of a field on the right-hand ftanding on it. After croffing Grey-ditch, it makes a turn to the north-weft, probably for the more eafy afcending the hill, w^hich is long and fteep, and it is then only difcovered by the plough till it comes upon the More, about three quarters of a mile on this fide Ba-- thom-edge, where it is plainly feen ; and on the Buxton fide of the edge it is again vifible for about a mile, in a direct line towards the inclofures at Chapel in the Foreji, and is again found by the plough near Buxton, at which place Mr. Watfon found, in 1772, a Roman ftation, not no- ticed before, but he does not defcribe it Where it is moft entire, it meafures eigh- teen feet over, and is compofed of a fraall chirty, flinty gravel, different from the ® Arch, V. 3. p- 237, ;natural [ 208 ] natural foil, and fuch as is found on Brad-^ well and "Tid/well-mores. It is raifed in the middle, like the modern turnpike roads ^ The place at Brought called the Cajile^ lies a little to the north of this road, having a communication v^ith it from the fouth corner. Plate V. Fig. 2. reprefents a plan of it. A, is the area, .310 feet from fouth to north, and 270 from eaft to w^efl. B. is a gate into the field. C. C. modern ftone walls, /landing on the old founda- tions, in which are feveral ftones taken from the ancient walls. D. D. hedges. E. faint traces of the original line, at pre- fent open to the reft of the field. F. an P Mr. Pegge's account of the Ro?nan roads in Derbyjhire, which I have feen fince writing the above, fays, that at the Dam of the Foreji (i. e. Chapel in the Foreji) a few yards within the lane, called Hernftone-laney it enters the inclofures on the left hand, where we could difcern its courfe in the month of June very plainly, by the different color of the grafs, till it entered that flraight lane that goes to Fairfield. Afterwards it winds to the left hand, towards F airfield y and proceeds by that village to Buxton, where it finally ends. He obferves, that there is no trace of a road to the north or north-eaft of Broughy and therefore concludes that it was only for a communication between that place and Buxton* But Mr. Wat/on, in his account of Melandra callle, in the parifh ©f Glojfop^ in Derbyjhirey fa/s there is a road to it from Broughy which is called the DoSlors-gatey and that it goes from thence to a place in Torkjhirey called the DoSlors^ lane Heady where it joined the great Roman way from Man^ €hefieY to York, Arch, v, 3. p. 237. opening [ 2Q9 ] opening to the field. G. G. the two rivers or brooks. H. one of the ancient ftones, in fhape of a wedge ; one foot one inch long, nine inches broad at one end, fix inches thick. Thefe ftones are of difi^erent fizes. Many foundations of buildings lying on every fide of this fpot, have been turned up by the plough, but it has been fo well levelled within thefe few years, that none are now to be feen ; the ftones have been ufed in building houfes and v^alls in the neighbourhood. Some perfect ones were in a wall inclofing the field ; they were of brown grit-ftone, the fhape of a wedge, about eleven inches long, nine broad at one end, fix at the other, and about five thick. Between the cafl:le and the river bricks have been taken up, but none on the other fide the water ; on the other fide, urns have been found. Mr. Pegge fays, that in 1761 he faw the rude bufl:s of 1 Apolloy and another deity, in ftone, which had been difcovered in the fields here y that a coarfe pavement had been dug up, com- pofed of pieces of tile and cement, in the lower of the two fields called Haljieds, at the confluence of Br ad^w ell-brook and the Nooe^ where were the apparent marks of an ^ oblong fquare building, the angles of which P . were [ 2IO ] were of hewn grit-ftone. He alfo found the fragment of a tile, on which the let- ters O H, part of the word CohorSy were remaining. In a field at the conflux of the two ftreams, it is in memory that a double row of pillars crofled the point of land, but they have been entirely deftroyed fome time. Old people fay they were of grit- ftone, and that three perfons could walk abreall between them. At a gate by the road fide, juil: before coming to the mill> on the left of the gate I faw a bafe, and part of a column of brown ftone. Plate VL Fig. I. is the profile of it. i. is the plinth, lo inches in height j; 2. is the torus, two inches ; 3. is the fhaft of the column, one foot in diameter; 4. is the projediion of the torus, being two inches ^ the dotted lines fhew the formation of it. On the ground on the right of the gate lay a bafe or plinth, with a fmall part of a co- lumn on it. Fif^. IL 1. is the plinth, of the fame height as the other ; 2. is the iliaft of the column, one foot three inches in diameter; 3. is the projedlion of the plinth, four inches and a half. Over a well is a toru^i moulding to a pedeftaL Fig,JII. I * fliews the fize, which is two / 5 ^^^t [ ^Ij ] feet nine Inches j 2, is the torus moulding, four inches high ; 3. is the projedion of the torus, being one inch. The dotted line Ihews the formation of it. Fig. IV. i. is the neck of an urn of red earth, lately found here, being two inches over; 2. is the profile of it. There have been frequently found pieces of fvvords, fpears, bridle-bits, coins, and pieces of pavement, compofed of fmall bits of brick and pebble llones, ftrongly ce- mented with lime, great numbers of whole and broken bricks, with letters on them, and tiles. "John Wiljofh Elq. of Brooin-- head-hall^ near Sheffield, is faid to be pof- felTed of feveral fpecimens of the bricks, one of them entire, eight inches long, fe- ven and three quarters broad, one and three quarters thick, with the letters C. H. very fairly imprelTed in the middle ; and a broken one, on which the letter C. remains. He is faid to have alio the rim of an urn, found here, with thefe letters on it \//y the T R being in fmaller charadlers ^ and a piece of a patera of fine red earth. About feven or eight years ago there were found two large ? Qu. If not C O H. P 2 urns kli [ 212 ] urns full of allies ; the urns were well pre- ferved, and were fent to fome gentlemen in Lo72don. Another was found two years ago> full of afhes> of the color of fern afhes; the man who found it, broke it to fee what it was made of. A piece of it I now have. A few years ago there was turned up by the plough a half-length figure of a woman,, with her arms folded acrofs her breaft, cut in a rough grit-ftone. It was fold to a gen- tleman near BakeweH. In the fpring 1780, there was found at the north corner of the caftle a baking ftone, fuch as is now ufed in the country for baking oat-bread. Oppofite to the Station y on the fouth fide of the Bradwell-watery are a few houfes, retaining the name of Brought where the flreams join is a mill, and a little below it a bridge, leading towards Sheffield^ over the river which retains the name of the Nooe. The common people fay, that King P^- verell had a houfe at Brough ^ this King PevereJl m^2ins JVilliam Peverelly mentioned before ; his father, in the fecond year of his reign, gave him Notti?2gha?n caftle". On examination, a gentleman tells me, it does not feem that there have been any ^ Du^d. Bar^ v. i. p. 436. fortifi- [ ] fortifications on Will-hill and Loofe-hilly tho' the tradition is, that a bloody battle was fought near them by two armies, which encamped thereon, but when, or by whom, is not known. The appearance is nothing more than fome ditches ; whether ufed for fences, or a flight temporary defence, I know not. There are heaps of earth raifed by the rubbifli thrown out of fome ftone quarries. It is not known that any inftru-- ments of war have been found here \ but about the year 1778, or 1779, on removing a large heap of ftones, a little to the eaft- ward of Winhill-pike^ an urn was found under them ; it was made of clay badly baked, the workmanfhip very rude. It is faid to have been made like a flovv^er-pot, about half an inch thick at top, not fo much in the middle, the fides fcratched, as plaifterers do their under-coats, thus, other part with flanting flrokes only, thus, ^/f/^ • It fi.ood on the furface of the ground, the top covered with a flat ftone, and over it the heap of ftones was rudely piled up in the form of a hay-cock. It is not re- membered whether afljcs or bones were found in it. Some parts of it are in Mr, Wilfons pofiefiion. P 3 About [ 214 ] About a mile north-eaft of the Nether-^ booths in Edale, what was called a Druids Altarj was deftroyed a few years ago, for the fake of the ftone. It was in a rough, heathy pafture, called the Nether-morey on the fummit of a hill, defcending on three fides to the depth of a quarter of a mile, but on the fourth fide is a level ground of 30 or 40 acres, at the end of which, and at the foot of another mountain, is a ditch, the Hope or front of wdiich Js towards that other mountain, and is about eight feet; the top, or crown, is about five feet broad, the bottom about fix feet. This ditch is about 660 yards long, a rivulet crofling each end of it. The al- tar was circular, about 66 feet diameter, compofed of rough ftones of various lizes, rudely piled together, without mortar or cement, in the form of a hay-cock, about i8 feet in perpendicular height. The top was hollow, in the form of a bafon, about four feet deep, and fix feet in diameter j the ftone on the infide of this bafon was black, and much burned, as if large fires had been often made in it. There is not the leall appearance of any tool having been ufed on the ftones, but they feem to |iave been taken from the fqrface of the hill [ 215 1 hill on the other fide the dit<:h, where there are now lying great quantities of loofe ones of the fame fort. What is in the ground immediately about the altar, differs in hardnefs, grit, and color. As much has been carried away from this pile, as has built a pafture wall 40 roods long (feven yards to the rood) fix feet high, 20 inches thick at bottom, and 10 at top, but feme hundred loads yet remain. No part of the earth at bottom has yet been cleared, fo that it is not known whether there is any thing under it, which could lead to a difcovery of the ufe for which it was intended, but other fimilar ones have been removed entirely, and nothing found. The bafon at the top, and the marks of fire, would feem to Ihew that this was a beacon, but the hill on the other fide the ditch is higher, and being fo near, would have been ufed for that purpofe, efpecially as the ftone ufed in the conftruftion was to be carried from thence to this place. The ditch too was certainly meant for more than a common pailure fence, if indeed any fences were made for cattle on the tops of hills in early times. A few years ago a large ftone lyin;^: on the fide of the hill, on the right of the P village [ 2l6 ] village of Edaky was removed, and under it were found 15 or 1 6 beads, about two inches diameter, and the thicknefs of the flem of a large tobacco-pipe ; one was of amber, the reft of glafs, fome black and white, others of different colors. Moft of them were fent to Cambridge. Thefe were amulets, ufed by the Druids Pliny fays, they wore them as a badge of diftinc- tion, and tells a very ridiculous ftory of the manner of taking them ; but, according to Camden (or his continuator) there is a like fuperftition about this matter ftill fub- lifting in moft parts of Walesy throughout all Scotland y and in Cornwall. He fays, it is there the common opinion of the vulgar, that about Midfummer Eve (tho' in the time they do not all agree) it is ufual for fnakes to meet in companies, and that by joining heads together and hiffing, a kind of bubble is formed, like a ring, about the head of one of them, which the reft, by continual hiffing, blow on till it comes off at the tail, and then it immediately hardens, and re- fembles a glafs ring, which whoever finds (as fome old women and children are perfuaded) fliall profper in all his f ' undertakings. The rings thus generated are [ ] are called Gleinen Nadroedh 5 in EngJiJh^ fnake-ftones. They are fmall glafs amu- lets, commonly about half as wide as our finger rings, but much thicker, of a green color ufually, though fome of thera are blue, and others curioufly waved with blue, red, and white'." He adds, that fome quantity of them, to- gether with fome amber beads, had been lately difcovered at a flone-pit near Garvordt in Berks y where a battle had been fought between the 'Romans and Britons. He thinks they were ufed as amulets by the Druids. The opinion of the Cornijk is fomewhat differently given by Mr. Carew, who fays, the country people in Cornwall have a perfuafion that the fnakes here breathing upon a hazel wand, produce a ftone ring of blue color, in which there appears the yellow figure of a fnake ; and that beafts which are flung, being given fome water to drink wherein this flone has been foked, will recover'/' Some of them have been found in Northampton-' Jhire\ Dr. Borlafe mentions what is faid by thefe authors, without telling us whether * Cam, V. 2. p. 64. * Sur'vey of CorniAJaU, p. 216* ^ Morton* s Natural Hijlory^ p. 499. the [ 2l8 ] the notion ftill continues, but it feems as if it did. The top of the hill, on the left of the village, is full of bogs, the other hills hereabouts are found. Cajileton is a royal manor, leafed to the Duke of Devonjhire. Lady Majfareen has confiderable property here, and particularly a leafe from the crown of a large trad: of ground which has been inclofed, and is now good land. - . A level is driving through a hill between the caftle and Mam Torr, in the Kings Fields^ which is carried on in the manner of the Duke of Bridgewater Sy at Worjley" millj and under the diredion of Mr. Gilbert y his manager there ^ but the canal here is all under ground, and is only ufed to con- vey the rubbifh of it as it is dug, to a place where it may be got rid of ; at firft this was done by conveying it to the mouth of the fhaft, and drawing it up in buckets, but they have fince found cavities in the rocks under ground, large enough to take off any quantity. The fhaft is funk about lo yards deep, and by conveying the water into chafms in the rock, they avoided the neceffity of carrying it thro' the grounds of the freeholders. A flight of wide ftone Heps [ 219 3 jdeps leads down to the water, which Is literally a fubterraneous navigation, no part of it being above ground. Eight men are employed, who work about a fathom in a week; in 1777 they had finillied about 400 yards, and had about 500 more to do. The expence is about fifty {hillings a yard, but no difficulty, no danger, no expence, can damp the ardor of undertakers in this bufinefs. Between Matlock and Roofeley one is carrying on thro' the hill near Darky -bridge^ towards TowlgravCy which had coft 10,000/. when fcarce a third of it was done. This is thro' a rock of fach hardnefs, that tools will fcarcely touch it, and the v/hole is performed by the tedious procefs of blafting with gunpowder ; and even this is fo impeded by the great quan-- tity of water and moifture, that the powder, mufl be inclofed in tin pipes. By the cuftom of the miners, any one who finds a fpot unworked, which he thinks likely to produce a vein of lead, tho' in another man's field % may put down ^ A remarkable cafe of this fort happened lately. The owner of a field employed a man by the great, to get Hone in his field. The latter employed laborers by the day, who found a vein of lead. This man, the laborers, and the ow- ner of the field, made their feparate claims ; in the Bar7noot Court it was adjudged to the man who took the work by the great, the day laborers being only confidered as his fer- yantSc a little [ 220 ] a little wooden crofs, called a Stoter^ and enter his name With the proper officer, who fets out a certain number of meers (a meer is twenty-nine yards) and he is then at liberty to work it, fink pits, and lay the rubbilh about fixteen yards on each fide as he proceeds. If he does not work it, and another has a mind to try his for- tune, he goes to the officer, tells him fuch a fpot is not worked, and delires him to nick it y the officer, with a jury of twenty- four, who are fworn for the purpofe of at- tending to this bufinefs, go to the fpot, cut a nick in the crofs, and give notice to the l^rft undertaker, that they fhall go again at fuch a timCj for the fame purpofe. If no notice is taken, they go a fecond and third time, after which the property is vefted in the new adventurer, fubjed: to the fame rules. The lead ore, when brought out of the mine, is broken with heavy hammers on a ftone, called a knock-ftone, and is then put into a wooden fieve, and rinced in a large tub; the ore falls through, and leaves the lighter rubbiffi, which is fkimmed off, thrown out at a hole in the wall, and thence taken to the huddle^ where it is rinced again by a frnall current of water, the [ 221 ] the lead falling to the bottom. What carried down by the current, is waflied once more in the fame manner, and the depofit here, which is almoft as fine as flour, is called belland. The beating and firft rincing is done by women, who work nine hours in the day, and earn about feven-pence. The men earn about eight fhillings a week. After all this is gone through, an officer, known by the name of the Barmijier, comee on behalf of the lord of the manor, and takes the proportion due to him, which is, in fome places, every tenth, in fome every thirteenth, in others every twentieth or twenty-fifth difh ; till this is done, none can be removed or fold. A dijhy or hoppet^ is 2i peck^y or fixteen pints in the High Peak, and fourteen in the Low ; nine difhes make a /oady and four of thefe a horfe-load. When the dues are thus taken> the ore is carried to the fmelttng-hatife, and run into pieces, two of which are called 2i pig, and weigh about eleven ftone. Sixteen pieces make a fothery the weight of which is different according to the market it is defigned for ; to LondoTiy nineteen hundred and an half ; to Hully twenty-four hundred; to other places, the medium between thefe two. The [ 222 ] The price is, however, the fame, and this difference in the wxight is made to anfwer the expence of carriage, which is paid by the feller. On an average the fother is worth 13/. 1 5 J*. The lead is moftly car- ried to the navigation near Rotheram, or to Chejlerfieldy to be fent to market. Pieces of ore of about the fize of nut- megs, are called bing , 2l fmaller fort, pefey y in a flill fmaller ftate it is called fmitham. Some years ago the miners contended, that toll was not to be taken of this laft 5 but as they had it in their power to reduce as much as they pleafed to that fize, and would have annihilated the toll, the Duke of Devonfiire, who is lelTee of the crown throughout the High Peaky tried the quef- tion, and fucceeded. By this determina- tion he is entitled to the thirteenth difh of the whole, but he takes no more than a twenty-fifth, except occafionally, to aflert his right. Mr. Rowlsj who is leflee of the crown in the Low Peak, has had the fame difpute, but takes the thirteenth. The ore is run into pieces, either in fmelting-houfes, or cupola's The latter were introduced about 1730, and are con- fidered as lefs prejudicial to the health of the workmen, than the former, but fmelt- ing- [ 223 J ing-houfes are ftill ufcd. The fmoke of the lead produces palfies, confumptions, the byoriy which refemblcs a quinfy, and a difcrder in the bowels, called the belland^ and which afFeds cattle that feed on the grafs or heath contaminated by the fmoak ; it gives a fweetnefs to the herbage, and makes them eat it greedily, but the pro- prietors of the fmelting-^houfes are often forced to pay damages for cattle which arc killed by it. K charge of lead, which is i8 hundred weight, takes up from feven to ten hours in frnelting. Two men are employed about it, the pay of the iirfl is \s. ^d. of the fecond, is. For fuch trifling fams do men undertake fuch unwholefome employ- ments ! Difputes between miners are tried at the Barmoot Courts which is held about Lady-- Day and Michaelmas^ and at any inter- mediate time, if required; At the ge- neral courts, a jury of 24 working-mmers is fworn, who a^ fummoned when a fpe- cial court is r ":.d, and twelve make a jury to try the caufe. A fpecial jury of holders cf mines rnay be had, if demanded. On complaint to the court, the twenty-four view ihe matter in difpute, and give their opinion ; t 224 3 Opinion ; if either party is dilTatisfied, a trial is had before the fteward of the court, who is the judge, and council often attend. If the verdidt is not fatisfadtory, the mat- ter is removed to JVeJiminJier-hall ; in cafes of importance this is generally done. People often undertake to drive a fougk^ to carry off the water from their own, or others, mines. If they relieve the mine of another, they are entitled to a certain proportion of all the ore got in that mine after it is cleaned ; fometimes fo much as one-fixth. If, in carrying on the work they hit on a vein of lead, they frequently find that it is W\\}c{\wthe meers oi fome other miner, and then they are obliged to account for the produce. Six miles beyond Tidfwell is the little village of Fairfield^ (a chapelry of Hope) and a mile beyond that is Buxtoriy whofe bath has been celebrated from the time of the Romans^ and to this day continues to afford relief to the affl idled. He who is racked by the gout or rheumatifm, or de- prived of the ufe of his limbs by thofe j)ainful diforders, here finds his cure, and hangs up his votive crutch. It is feated in a bottom, and the refort of company to the bath has made it grow 5 i^t^ [ *] into the fize of a fmali town ; but it is, as toentloned before, a town (hip of Bakewell. The bath is at a houfe called T!he Hall, is of a temperate heat, equal to new milk, or that of one*s own blood ^; it is in a room ten yards long, five and an half wide^ and about the fame height. There is a ftone bench along one end and fide of it, for the ufe of the bathers, and at each corner are fleps to go down into it. It is 26 feet fix inches long, 1 2 feet eight inches broad, four feet nine inches deep at one end, and fix inches lefs at the other. The bottom is paved with fmooth flags. On the backfide lies a rock of folid black limeftone, or a kind of baHard marble. The two chief fprings rife up through this rock, but feveral lefier fprings rife up all over the bath, through chinks in the rock, and the feams in the pavement. The fur- face of the water is covered with a fceamj; which, however, does not rufl irbn. The level, by v/hich the bath is emptied, was made by Mr. White in 16^7, at which time he m^de the outer bath, w^here the old kitchen flood ; he alfo made a fough^ to carry o,ff the cold fprings, that they might not rife in the bath, and chill the y See Note in p. 1240 water , [ J water. The outer bath is 17 feet longj^ 10 feet two inches wide, and four feet fix inches deep, and is filled from the inner bath. The fp rings will fill them both in^ two hours and eight minutes That the poor might not be deprived of the benefit of thefe (and BatB) waters, by the fevere laws made in Queen E,lizahetUs time for regulating the poor, and confining them to their own parifhes, and yet that this might not be made a pretence for idle vagabonds, it is provided, in an a£t made in her 39th year, that none coming hither^ or to Bath^ fiiould beg, but fhould have relief from their parifhes, and a pafs from two juflices, fixing the time of their re- turn. The water is fulphureous and faline, yet not foetid, but very palatable,, becaufe the fulphur is not united with any vitriolic particles, or but very few faline ; it tinges not filver, nor is purgative, by reafon the faline parts are in fuch fmall proportions. If drank, it creates a good appetite, and is prefcribed in fcorbutic rheumatifms, and confumptions % ^ Shorty p. 42. ^ Leigh, b. I. p. 31, 32, 33. For a compai'atlve view of the difFere'nt temperatures of Bath, Buxton, &c. fee p. 1 24. St. t i St. Annes well, which furnlflies the wa- ter that is drank, is on the other fide of the late turnpike-road, under a frnall ftone al- cove, built by Sir "Thomas Delves y who had received a cure here^; but that is now taken down, and a more elegant one built in its room. St. Anneh^idi formerly a chapel dedicated to her in this place. This bath was ufed by the Romans^ and the remains of their road are vifible at Fairfield J pointing towards the ftation at Burghy or Brought mentioned before. In Dr. Leigh's time, a wall was to be feen cemented with red Roman plaifter, clofe by St. Anne's well, with the ruins of the ancient bath, its dimenlions, and length i he fays, the plaifter was red^ and hard as brick, a mixture not prepared in thefe days, and appeared as if it was burnt, ex- .adtly refembling tile^ This well role into a ftone bafon, within a Roman brick wall, a yard fquare within, and a yard high on three fides this wail w^as deftroyed in 1709, when the arch over that fpring was built by Sir Thomas Delves. About 1697, las Mr. White was driving up a level to the bath, 50 yards eaft of St. Annes well, and ^ Stukeley^s Itin, Cur. v. I. p. 56. Leigh ^ b. '3. p. 42. ^ Short^s Mineral Watery, p. 23. Q_2 14 north [ 228 3 14 north of Bingham fpring, the workmen found> buried deep under the grafs and' corn-mould, £heets of lead fpread upori great pieces of timber, about four yards fquare, with broken ledges roond about, which had been a leaden ciftern, and not unlikely that of the Rommsy at leaft of fome ancient bath, which had been fup- plied with water from Bingham welL The firft good houfe for the accommodation of vifitorbv v/as built not long before 1572 (when Dr. Jones publiflied a treatife on thefe waters) by the Earl of Shrewjhury. This was demolifhed about 1670,. by the then Earl of Devonjhirey and a new houfe built. At this time a regifter of cures, which had b^een long kept here, was de- ftroyed, with all the votive crutches, which hung on the walls \ Bing/jamy or Mr. Leigh's well, is a very ftrong, warm fpring, rifing out of the black limeftone, in a very dry ground, about 63 yards fouth, and fouth-eaft, of ^l. A?ine's well. It is not always equally ftrong, but in a great drought difcharged 1758 gallons of water in an hour^ There is in the fame clofe a hot and cold fpring, 20 yards fouth-eaft of St. A:mes ; and a little eaft Short, p. 49. r Ibid. p. 50. [ ] of this, on the eaft lide of a ftone wall, is another fmall, flow, hot fpring, which mixes with a cold one, riling up clofe by it. Another warm fpring rifes in the ftream of the level, which carries the wa- ter from the bath; and on the fouth of this ftream rife two other warm fprings ^ Dr. Short computes, that the four warm fprings together, throw forth in a year 97 millions, 681 thoufand 860 gallons of wa- ter, exclufive of the wafte that gets out of the bath, the ftrong fpring in the middle of the bath level, what rifes in the hot and cold fpring, and the two fmall w^arm fprings in the low ground, with feveral other oozings of warm water in different places, the whole of which added, might nearly double the quantity \ On the north f de the brook, oppofite to the hall, is a chalybeate fpring, which, mixed with the v/ater of St. Annes, or Bingham v/ell, is a gentle purgative*. Befides the hall, there are two large houfes on the hill for the reception of company, the White Hart^ and the Eagle^ v/ith fome other fmaller ones ; but fo great has been the refort for many years, that the Duke of DevonJJjirey who is owner of ^ Shorty p. 39. ^ Ibid. p« 51. ^ Ibid, p. 229. Q^j the [ ^3^ ] the bath, has at length determined to pro- vide flill further accommodation. He ha^ accordingly begun to build in the bottom, near the hall, and is about to erect another inn, a large aflembly room, and fome pri- vate houfes, w^hich are to form a crelcent. The foundations are laying (1780), and in digging them, another warm fpring has been difcovered, in which the water bubbles/ up with confiderable force ^ near it was found the corner of a building of fquared ftone, fuppofed to have been the work of the Romans. It might have been fuppofed,. that as the prefent bath is not near large enough to accommodate the company con- veniently, and a greater refort muft be ex- pected when the buildings are completed, they would have gladly availed themfelves of this additional bath \ unfortunately they have not. A grove of trees, which could ill be fpared, has been cut down, to make room for thefe alterations. The turnpike road is turned, fo as not to go between the hall and the nev/ building, as it ufed to do, but now goes round the crefcent, and comes into the town at the top of the hill. The fione ufed in thefe buildings is got on the duke's eftate, about tw^o miles ojEF, and makes a handfome appearance. The [ ] The duke's expence is calculated to be from 30 to 50,000/. but this is much (hort of what was originally propofed to have been done* A wide ftreet was to have been built in the front of the hall, (which was alfo to have been much enlarged) with a colonade on each fide up to it, and the whole was to have been made commodious and magnilicent. The avarice of an indi- vidual prevented the execution of the plan ; a fmall field of two acres, which was not the duke's property, lay intermixed with what was his, and without it the v/ork could not be carried into execution. The owner thought he might avail himfelf of this circumftance to any extent, and that the duke miift buy, whatever price he fhould fet on it j he demanded 2000/. for his two acres. He was offered 1200/. or more, but refufing it, thfe defign was changed, and the prefent plan adopted in its room. By this means his two acres remain^ of the original value of any other two acres near the place, which miift be rated very high, to make them come to much more than 100/. Difappointed in that fcheme, he is now trying another; he is finking to intercept the hotfpring, which 0^4 he [ ] he fancies rifes in his ground, and dcfcenda. from thence to the hall. The curate of the place reads prayers at the hall twice a day, and a fubfcription is made for him. Here, as at Matlock^ a fhilling a piece is paid for dinner, and the fame for fupper. Whoever happens to be at the head of the table, collects one fhil- ling from every new comer on his firft ap-- pearance, for the benefit of the poor 5 the fame is done at the other houfes, and the whole amounts to a handfome fum in the feafon. The lituation of this place is the reverfe of Matlocky the fcenery of which ypu look for in vain. The hills are dreary, and the fummit of one does little more than fhew the fummit of another equally bare. The WyCy which runs from hence by Bakewelt^ is in its infancy, being formed by the junc- tion of three fmall fprings a mile weft from the hall \ About half a mile from Buxton y on the right of the Af^bourn road, is a large hill, where they get limeftone, and burn it into lime, which is more fit for manure than building, outer walls efpecially; for being expofed to the air and weather, it foor^ ^ Shorty p. 24. moulders^ -^Jd J moulders, and peels oiF^ Lower down, nearer the bath, are different ibrts of ftcne, the lime from which becomes fo hard after working, that it becomes as hard as ftone, and is not injured by air or weather. Of the limeflone here, there are nine or ten different forts, fome of which lying nearcft to the hall, are very full of fulphur, and being broke or ftruck with a hammer, fmell flrongly of it. Moft of the jet black fort are of a very irregular figure, full of great knobs, or lumps, the ieaft bit whereof broke off, fends forth an infuff^erable fmell ^ it contains much folid bitumen, and feems as though it were forcibly melted fulphur and ftone powder, thrown up by the vehe- mence of a fubterranean fire, and con- denfed under the earth's furface. This is an obfervation made by Dr. Short before the idea was ftarted of volcano's being to be found in a great number of places, v^here there is no tradition of any. This gentleman obferves, that moft of the lime- ftone in the Feak abounds with fhells of cockles, oyfters, and efcallops, but none fo much as this place and Stony ^Middlet on i he contends, however, that they are not real ftiells, but only refemblances of them ^ \ Short, p. 24, Jbidi. p. 24. ^ Ibid. p. 28. There [ ^34 ] There are feven or eight kilns, worked in the fummer, which burn from 120 to 300 horfe loads in two days, fold at 4^. or . the load. It is fometimes carried away in fmall carts, which hold about four horfe loads each. Five men join in taking a kiln, and give 5/. a year rent for it. They work at the mines in the winter. The heaps of rubbifh from the kilns, which are fcattered over the fides of the hill, grow into a firm confiftence, and in them the workmen fcoop out habitations, which muft be comfortably warm, as there are no crevices to let in the air. At the diftance of a mile from hence, or lefs, on the Staf- fordjJnre fide, the foil changes, and inftead of a limeftone rock covered with verdant turf, the furface is heath, under that a black, moorey foil, and under that a browniih earth, full of loofe, crumbling ftone; lead, in fome places, fome iron- ilone, and fome fulphur°; and a little far-- ther are coal-pits, where coal is got, which is ufed in burning the lime. Under this hill is the cavern called Poole s Hokj reputed one of the wonders of the Feak ; but no one who has feen the cavern at Cajlleton^ will find it worth the trouble of [ ] of going into. The entrance is by an ^rch, fo low, that you muft ftoop at going in, but it foon rifes to a confiderable height. There are hollows, which are called by the names of Poole s Chamber^ Cellar ^ &€• and the droppings from the roof, form maffes of ftone, which may be fuppofed to reprefent fret-work, organ and choir-work, the fi- gures of animals, a chair, flitches of ba- con, &c. When Marjy Queen of Scots^ was at Buxton, fhe went as far as a pillar, which has ever fince gone by her name, and few go farther ; but beyond this is a fteep afcent for near a quarter of a mile, which terminates near the roof in ahoilow% called the Needle s Eye, in which a candle being placed, it reprefents a ftar. The palTage is rugged, flippery, and difficult. Near this cave are found hexagonal chryf- tals, the angles and fides complete, but of a bad color, none quite tranfparent, and not fo hard as Briftol flones ; their points fcratch glafs, but prefently break off. In the year 1756 a gentleman in his walks obferved fome little rifings on the rocks, which appeared like ant-hills ; he opened fome, and found they confifted of a perfedt arch, drawn up, as he imagined, by the exhalation of the funj in them was firft formed [ ] formed a thin bed of dirty colored fpar, and upon that a regular clufter, or bed of thefe cryftals^. Dr, ^hort fays, all thefe are formed in the winter, and the more ftormy and colder that is, the larger and harder the petrifadions. About a mile from Buxton^ in the Ajh- bourn road, on the left hand, is a hill, called Staden hoWy marked by a thorn growing on the top. Between the road and that, is the fquare vallum, with the circle adjoining, mentioned by Dr. Stuke- ley. The ground there has been inclofed and plowed llnce he vifited it 5 but tho' the plow has levelled the banks, the fliape v/as as clearly to be diftinguifhed in 1779, as it ever was. It was then a field of oats. He fuppofes the circle to have been for flicws, and fays, it is 160 feet diameter. The vallum, he fpeaks of in one place, as being 50 feet on each fide, but revi- filing it, he calls it 100, the ditch in- ward. On the point of the circle, farthefl from the fquare, he fays, there was a little femicircular cove of earth. He fpeaks of barrows on the tops of the hills'^; but per- haps means tv/o beacons, v/hich are on the points of two hills not far off. IP Literary Magazine ^ 57* ^ 1^^^^- v« 2. p. 26. Under 2, [ 2J7 ] Under Staden Low, to the north, the rocks between which the river runs, form a tremendous precipice, called the Lovers-- leap ; the particular hiftory from whence it got this name I do not knov/, nor did I hear of any modern exploit of the fort. This, with the Marvel Stones, Chee Torr, and the Druids Temple, near Nevchaven, are all the things within a morning's ride from Buxton^ which I know of. To go to the Marvel ^ tones, after paf- fing thro' Fairfield turnpike, take a bye- road over the common, on the left, and keep the road to Chapel in Frith a little way, then take a lane on the right, which points ftraight to a part of the turnpike- road from Manchefier, by Chapel in Foreji and Tidfwell, to Sheffield, over which the Batho7n-gate, on the moor above, is plainly feen in a line to the edge of the hill. About three miles from Buxton, and two before coming to Chapel in the Forefi, thefe flones are in a pallure on the right of the road, on the fide of a fmall hill inclining to the fouth. It is a rock of about i8o feet long, and 80 broad in the wideft part; it does not any w^here rife more than three feet above the furface of the ground. The face of it is deeply indented with innu- merable channels, or gutters, of various lengthy t 238 ] length, breadth, £hape, and depth ; froni nine inches to 30 feet long; from five inches to five feet v^ide. There are alfo a great number of holes, fome round, fome of an irregular fliape, from the fize of a fmall bafon to that of a large kettle ; after rains thefe are full of water, till exhaled by the fun. The channels, or gutters, ge- nerally run north and fouth, but none of them go quite ncrofs the ftone; there is always fome feam or ridge of the rock ter- minating the channel, and in a fevi^ inches another channel commences, which is alfo crofled by another feam or ridge, Thefe feams or ridges are from four inches to four feet broad, but there can hardly be found four feet fquare without a hole or a channel. The flone is not jointed, or of a loofe kind, but one hard, firm rock. At the eaft and weft ends are a great num- ber of irregular fhaped ftones. Handing a few inches from each other, the interfpaces filled with earth, which is covered with grafs J perhaps, if the earth was removed, it would be found that thefe are parts of the fame rotk. This, I believe, is what Dr. Stukeley means, when he mentions having heard of fome marvel ftones near Hopey which he fuppofes to have been Druidical, but did 2 not [ ] not fee ; if he had, he would not have formed that fuppofition, the whole being certainly the work of nature. From hence, looking over the moor to- wards Tidjwellj a white heap is feen, called ^he Tong^ where, under earth and Hones, quantities of human bones are found ; and in a pafture, called Perry^ in this Peak-- forejiy a very great quantity has been dif- covered under a bank feveral yards in length j they are in general found. There is ano- ther of thefe colledlions of bones in a paf- ture, called Harrod-loWy in the fame foreft^, and one on WormhilUmoor . There is no tradition concerning them that I can learn. Chapel in the Foreji is a little village, in the road from Manchejter to Tidfwell, and is fo called from being feated in what was once the Peak-foreji. There is a farm- houfe in a good clump of trees (almofl: the only ones) faid to have been a lodge ; now called The Chamber^ Near the village is a large flat, once covered v/ith water, the middle now grown up with ruflies and flags, called T^he Foreji Dam. A Mifs Bower y who lately died here, left her harpficord to the church, with a falary of about twenty pounds a year for a man to play it, and find coals to air it, for which ufe a chimney is built. A houfe for the muflcian [ ] mulician is building, the parfonage decay- ing* Her mother lengthened the church at the eaft end, and made a very handfome ftone front there, with a Venetian window^ ladled. She alfo deligned a monument for her daughter, but dying before it was put up, it is not finiihed. This chapel was fa- mous for the celebration of marriages be- fore the a6l took place. Chee Torr lies on the right of the road from Buxton to ^^idfwcll, about five miles from the former. At the fourth mile ftone you leave the turnpike, and go under the wall of a plantation, to the village of Worm- hilL Here is a good houfe belonging to Mr. BagftdaWy whofe elder brother orna- mented his grounds and the village green with m.any plantations. An honeft fhoe- n^aker has opened a fummer cofFee-houfe here, and will be your guide to the rocks, Defcending a very fteep hill, you come to the river Wye^ at a place where it receives two additional fprings in its way to Bake-^ wellj and where its current takes up nearly all the fpace between the rocks, which feem to have been forced afunder. One of them is faid to be 360 feet high ; it does not appear fo high as Matlock Great Torr^ but it is perpendicular, and not broken by trees.' [ 1 trees. This valley (if it may be fo called) is winding, and you do not fee the whole at once. A mile to the left of a public houfe, called NewhaveUy 1 1 miles from Buxton^ in the way to Afbhourriy is a circle of ftones, fuppofed to be of the Druids. A circular bank of earth, raifed to a confi- derable height, iticlofes an area of about 50 yards over; towards the eaft, or fouth- eaft, it is much higher than in the other parts, that part of it being formed by a large barrow. The ditch is within fide. On the area was a circle of ftones, all of which are thrown down ^ whether they are all there I cannot fay, but I reck- oned them to be 32, adding fuch pieces as appeared to have been broken off by the fall, to thofe which they feemed to have belonged to when entire. In the centre are three large flones, alfo thrown down. The entrance is at the north, or north- weft fide, and feems to lead to thefe three flones. They are of the fame fort of rock as the marvel-ftones at Small-daky and were probably brought from a quarry, which there is of this kind, about three miles off. It is not eafy to form a conjedture of the original height or fize, as they are all R thrown 41 t 242 ] thrown down, many, if not all, broken, and fome feem deeper buried in the earth than others, but perhaps feven or eight feet may be about their length, I am in- clined to think there was but one circle, and that what, in one place, gives the ap- pearance of a fecond, or inner circle, is only occafioned by tPie fragments broken off the larger ones in their fall. Weft, or fouth-weft of the great barrow, is a fmaller one, at a little diftance from the bank, ^r/^or- low ; from it many others are fecn an the tops of the adjacent hills, and one very large one about half a mile off, called End-low. In this laft, afhes and burnt bones have been found. They all have a bafon on the top, and wherever there is a barrow, the hill is called a Low, with fome addition prefixed to it. From Buxton.^ returning to Tidfwelly take the road to Sheffield, over the high and bar- ren moors, of which there is a long fuc- ceffion. By going thro' Sto?2y Middleton, one very long and fteep hill is avoided. Faffing the river at Grindkford Bridge, the iirft afcent is thro' a fcrubby wood of oaks, called Tarncliff, where a itream ruflies down a deep woody glen on the left. On gaining the top, fee the rude and rough ridges of rock 5 t 24^ ] fdck on the moor on the left, called MiiU ftone Edge, from the mill-ftones dug there. On this moor are fome things v/ell dc"* ferving to be feen, tho' little fpoken of. The traveller haftetis from fo dreary a fpot, and does not think of its affording any en- tertainment ; and indeed he ought fo take a guide, if he toeans to look for what I am about to mention, leaft he fhould get into a bog. At the top of the hill above Tarncliff, turn on the left> and on the point of a hill called Great Owlar-Torry is a heap of large ftones piled up one againft another j on the top I found three rock- bafons perfedl, and one which had been broken off. Not far from this a vaft ftone is feen peeping over the edge of a hill, and appearing to be placed on a fmaller ; on going to it, I found it to be one very great ftone, perhaps 20 feet high. There is a broad bafe to the height of fix or feveri feet, the body then becomes fmaller, and is covered with a cap, hanging over, fo that you cannot get on the top. To the right of this is a fortification^ called The Carle s JVork^ but of what peo- ple, or age, is not known. It may feem to have fome refemblance of the huge and fhapelefs flrudure of ftones, mentioned by R 2 Tacitm t 244 J Tacitus to have been raifed by CaraSlacus, when he headed the Silures againfl the Ro- mans'. On its firfl: appearance, a ftone wall of eight or nine feet high, feeming to be pretty regularly made, is feen croffing a neck of land, lying higher than the ad- joining part of the moor, and which is full of loofe ftones. On coming to it, the flones which compofe the wall are found to be very large, but regularly piled and covered at the back with a Hoping Bank of earth. Keeping to the right hand, the ground is of an irregular fhape, in- clofed by a fence of ftones, rudely placed ; fometimes a great flone in its natural pc- fition, forms the defence, in other places, fmaller ones are piled between, or on, large ones* In the fide which looks towards Chatfworth^ is an entrance, or gateway, opening inwards, with tv/o flanks. The wall firft mentioned looks towards Great Owlar Torr. Inftead of returning to the turnpike road, you may go forward, and come in at a fmelting mill, to another turnpike road, which comes from Cajile- toriy by HatherfagCy to Sheffield. H ere was a rocking-llone, very lately deftroyed by the barbarous hands of an ignorant turn- ^ Gordon's Tacitus, V. 2. p. 54., 55. pike [ 245 ] pike furveyor, or mafon. Hatbe?ifage lies a little below, on the left, on the fliarp delcent of the hill. The church ftands at the upper end of the town, and is a hand- fome one, with a good fpire ; above it is a place called Camp-green^ being a high and pretty large circular mound of earth, inclofed by a deep ditch. See Plate V. Fig. I. A. is the area, 144 feet dia- meter. B. B. the top of the mound. C. C. the outfide. D. D. roads made thro' the mound. E. the church. F. the flones in the church-yard, which they fhew you as the fpot where Little Johny the friend of Robin Hoody is buried. They are 13 feet four inches diftance, and mark the length of his grave, if not of his per- fon. The dotted lines (hew the courfe of the fedion. After paffing fome miles over thefe bar- ren moors, begin to defcend towards Sbef-- jield. This town has been for fome centuries famous for the iron trade, which is here carried on in various forts of work to an aflonifliing extent. The rivers Sheff and Dun^ meet near the town, but the navi- gation does not come quite up to it ; how- ever, it is ufed to carry the goods to HuIL R 3 It [ 246 3 It is reckoned that there are 40,000 in-? habitants, all induftrious and fully em- ployed. The number of fmiths and cut- lers living ^in thefe parts in the time of Hen. 8. is noticed by Leland-, and the cutlers of Hallamjhire (the name for this part of Torkjhire) are a corporation by ail of parliament, 21 "James L The grinders have high wages, ov^ing partly to their fkill and the nicety requifite in finifhing edge- tools, partly to the danger of their em- ployment from the breaking of the ftones, which fometimes fly in pieces from the velocity of their motion. The breaking of a ftqne ufed to be almofl certainly fatal ^ but the danger is now greatly leffened, by placing a ftrong band, chained with a very thick iron chain, over that part of the ftone which is next the workman ; by this means, if it does break, it can only fly forwards. Thefe grindfl:ones are turned by a fet of wheels, which are moved by one water- wheel, and have difl^erent degrees of ve- locity; that of the finifher is fuch, that the eye fcarce fees it move. A great deal of buflnefs is done in filver, and in plating with filver; the former is likely to be much increafed, by their get- ting an affay in the town, which they, and fome C 247 T feme other places obtained in the year 177 . Before that, they were obliged to fend all their filver goods to London to be allayed and marked, which was attended with much expence and lofs of time. Here is a filk mill, on the model of that at Derby. A new church was built about . 30 years ago. Thomas, Lord Furnivaly in 54 Hen. 3. obtained licence to make a caftle of his manor houfe at Sheffield ^ and his grandfon, in 24 £. i. had a charter for a weekly market at his manor of Sheffield. By 3 daughter and heir, this eftate, with many others, went into the family of Ne-- n)ilU in the beginning of the reign of Richaf^d 2. and not long after to an only daughter, married to the famous John Tal^ bot. Earl of Shrew/btiry\ His defcendants refided here, had a great eftate, and were liberal benefadors to the town. Earl George, who, as mentioned before, had the cuftody of Mary, Queen of Scots, has a noble monument, which he eredled in his life time. In the infcription thereon, he fpeaks of the Queen of Scots being in his cuftody for 16 years, from 1568 to 1584, and that her entertainment was attended with great expence, and an anxiety not to * Dugd, Bar, V. I. p. 726, 301, 328. R 4 be [ 248 ] be exprefled^ The funeral of Earl Francis^ who died at this place in OBober 1560, was very magnificent, according to the cuftom of thofe days. After thefervice^ there was a great dinner at the caftle for every one vv^ho would come, of three hundred and twenty meffes of meat (befides three for the table of the then earl, who attended the funeral) each mefs confifting of eight difhes, two boiled, four roall, and two baked. What was left was given to the poor. Fifty does, and twenty-nine red deer, were killed for this entertainment. The whole ceremony is given in Feck's Dejiderata Curiofay v. 2. lib. 7. p. 17. The burial place is in the great church, where there is a noble monument for Earl George, hulband of the cobntefs, mentioned at Hard^ ivick. Gilberty the grandfon of Earl Francisy died in i6i6, leaving three daughters and coheirs, of whom Alethea married Thomasy Earl of Arundelly and brought him this and the Workfop eftate. From this Earl of Arundell it defcended to the late Duke of Norfolky who gave the Sheffield eftate to the Earl of Surrey (fon of the prefent duke) who is now the owner. ^ Dugd, Bar. V. I. p. 333. The [ ] The caflle was razed by order of parlia- ment, after the death of Charles I. Barnjley is the next ftage, before which the woods of the Marquis of Rockingham are feen on the right, and on the left is Wentworth caftle, formerly called Stain-' borough, the feat of the Earl of Strafford. I did not go to this, but the following is Mr. Arthur Toiing s account of it. The new front to the lawn is one of the inofh beautiful in the world": it is furprifingly light and elegant ; the por- tico, fupported by fix pillars of the Co- rinthian order, is exceedingly elegant 5 *^ the triangular cornice, inclofing the arms, is as light as poffible ; the baluftrade gives a fine efFecl' to the whole building, v/hich is exceeded by few in lightnefs, unity of parts, and that pleafing firnpli- city which muft ftrike every beholder. The hall is forty by forty, the cieling fupported by very handfome Corinthian pillars, and divided into compartments by cornices elegantly worked and gilt, the divifions painted in a very pleafing manner. On the left hand you enter an anti-chamber, twenty feet fquare, then a bed-chamber of the fame fize, *^ This front is from a defign drawn by his lordfhip. and 5 t ^50 ] ' " and thirdly, a drawing-room of the like dimenfions ; the pier-glafs is large, but the frame rather in a heavy ftile. Over the chimney is fome carving, by Gib- bons. The other fide of the hall opens into a drawing-room, forty by twenty-five. The chimney-piece is exceedingly ele- gant ; the cornice furrounds a plate of Siena marble, upon which is a beautiful feftoon of flowers in white ; it is fup- ported by two pillars of Siena:, wreathed with white, than which nothing can have a better effedt. The door-cafes are very elegantly carved and gilt. Here are three fine flabs, one of "Egyptian granite, and two of Siena marble ; ^Ifb feveral pictures. *^ The dining-room is twenty-five by thirty. Here is the portrait of the great Earl of Strafford^ by Vandyke. Going up flairs (the flair^cafe by the by is fo lofty as to pain the eye) you enter the gallery, which is one of the moft beautiful in England. It is one hundred and eighty feet long, by tvventy-four broad, and thirty high. It is in three divifions ; a large one in the centre, and a fmall one at each end ^ the divifion is by E 1 by very magnificent pillars of marblcj, with gilt capitals. In the fpaces be- tween thefe pillars and the wall are fome ftatues. This noble gallery is defigned and ufed as a rendezvous room, and an admirable one it is; one end is farnifl:ied for mu- fic, and the other with a billiard-table : this is the ftile in which fuch rooms fhould always be regulated. At each end is a very elegant Venetian window, contrived (like feveral others in the houfe) to admit the air by Aiding down the pannel under the centre part of it. The cornices of the end divifions are of marble, richly ornamented. Here are feveral valuable pictures, amongft which is Charles I. in the IJle of Wight ^ by Vandyke. 1 Lord Strafford's library is a good room, thirty by twenty, and the book-cafes handfomely difpofed. Her ladyiliip's dreffing-room is ex- tremely elegant, about twenty-five feet fquare, hung with blue India paper; the cornice, cieling, and ornaments, all ex- tremely pretty; the toilette boxes of gold, and very handfome. Her [ ] Her reading clofet is exceffively ele- gant, hung with a painted fattin, and the cieling in Mofaics, feftooned with honey -fuckles ; the cornice of glafs painted with flowers : it is a fweet lit- tle room, and xnuft pleafe every fpec- tator. On the other fide of the dref- fing-room is a bird clofet, in which are many cages of finging birds : the bed- chamber, twenty-five fquare, is very handfome, and the whole apartment very pleafingly complete. But Wentworth cafde is more famous for the beauties of the ornamented en- virons, than for that of the houfe, the* the front is fuperior to many. The water and woods adjoining are ilcetched with great tafle. The firfl: extends through the park in a meandring courfe, and wherever it is viewed, the termi- nations are no v^here feen, having every where the efFedt of a real and very beau- tiful river; the groves of oaks fill up the bends of the fi:ream in a moft beau- tiful manner, here advancing thick to the very banks of the water, there ap- pearing at a dillance, breaking away to a few fcattered trees in fome fpots, and in others joining their branches into the moil [ 253 1 moft folemn brownnefs. The water in many places is feen from the houfe, be- tween the trees of feveral fcattered clumps, mofi: pidurefquely ; in others, it is quite loft -behind hills, and breaks every where upon the view, in a ftile that cannot be too much admired* The fhrubbery that adjoins the houfe is difpofed with the utmoft elegance : the waving flopes dotted v^^ith firs, pines, &c. are exceffively pretty : and the temple is fixed at fo beautiful a fpot, as to command the fweet land- fcape of the park, and the rich profped: of the adjacent country, which rifes in a bold manner, and prefents an admirable view of cultivated hills. Winding up the hill among the plan- tations and woods, which are laid out *Mn an agreeable tafte, we came to the bowling-green, which is thickly en- compaffed with evergi;eens, retired and beautiful, with a very light and pretty Chinefe temple on one fide of it, and from thence crofs a dark walk, catching a moft beautiful view of a bank of dif- tant wood. The next objed is a ftatue of Ceresy in a retired fpot ; the cafcade appearing with a good elfed:, and through the t 254 ] the divifions of it, the diftant profpefl is feen very finely. The lawn which leads up to the caftle is elegant ; there is a clamp of firs on one fide of it, through Vvhich the diftant profpedt iS feen, and the abovenientioned ilatue of Ceres is caught in the hollow of a dark *^ grove with the moft pidturefque ele- gance, and is one among the few in- fiances of flatues being employed iri gardens with real tafte. From the plat- form of grafs within the caftle walls (in the centre of which is a flatue of the late earl who built it) over the bat- tlements, you behold a furprifing prof- petfl on which-ever fide you look ; but the view which pleafes me befl, is that cppofite the entrance, where you look down upon a valley, which is extenfive, finely bounded by rifing cultivated hills, and very complete in being commanded at a fingle look, notwithflanding its vafl variety* " Within the menagery, at the bottom of the park, is a moft pleafing fhrub- bery, extremely fequeftered, cool, ihady, and agreeably contrafled to that by the houfe, from which fo much diftant profpefl is beheld ; the latter is Vv^hat may [ ^55 ] may be called fine, but the former is pleafingly agreeable. We proceeded through the menagery (which is pretty well flocked with pheafants, &c,) to the bottom of the fhrubbery, where is an alcove in a fequeflered fituation ; ia *^ front of it the body of a large oak is feen at the end of a walk, in a pleafing^ llile^ but on approaching it, three more arc caught in the fame manner, which, from uniformity in fuch merely rural and natural objeds, difpleafes at the firft fight. The fhrubbery, or rather plan- tation, is fpread over two fine flopes, the valley between w^hich is a long, winding, hollow dale, exquifitely beau- tiful, the banks are thickly covered with great numbers of very fine oaks, whofe noble branches in fome places almoft join over the grafs lawn, which winds through this elegant valley ; at the up- per end is a Gothic temple over a little grot, which forms an arch, and together have a pleafing eff'ed: ; on a near view this temple is found a light, airy, and elegant building. Behind it is a water, fweetly fituated, furrounded by hanging woods,* in a beautiful manner; an ifland in it, prettily planted ; and the bank on the [ } the left fide rifing elegantly from the water, and fcattered with fine oaks. From the feat of the river God (the ftream by the by is too fmall to be fandtifiect) the view into the park is pretty, congenial with the f]30t, and the temple caught in a proper ftile/' Mr. Toung concludes v/ith properly ac- knowledging the true politenefs of Lord and Lady Straffordy in permitting ftrangers to have eafy accefs to a fight of this place ; and execrates, as every one mufi: do, the infolent pride of nabobs and contractors, who accidentally becoming pofiTefi^ed of fine feats, refufe that gratification to all who are not of xhtiv prefe?2t acquaintance. Lord Strafford has built fome ruins near the road, w^hich may perhaps have a good t&di from the houfe, or grounds, but they appear very indifferently to a traveller. Barnejley is a fmall town, black from the coal-mines and iron-works round it, from whence it has got the name of Black Barnejley. Yet, contradictory as it may feem, thread is bleached here ; fome coarfe linen for fhirts and checks, is wove. In the village of Sandall is a fmall fchool by the road fide, the modefl builder of which has only placed the initials of his name^ [ ^^7 ] hame^ C. Z. ; he fays in the infcHptiotip that it is defigned to teach EngliJJo and the Ckrijiian religion^ the too great negleft of which he remarks^ and, if I remember right, with an apoftrophe ! At this place was a caftie^ built by Jo/jrif the laft Earl Warren^ who having no ilTue by his wife, in 9 Edw. 2. by fpecial grant, gave the inheritance of all his lands to the king and his heirs, amongft v^hich, this caftle and the manor of Wakefield are enu- merated; ten years after the king granted it to him for his life''. In i Edw. 3. oa the death of Thomas, T^yjik.^ oi Lancajier,, Henry being found to be bis brother and heir, the king, taking his homage^ com- manded his efcheator north of "Trent , not to meddle with the caflle of Sandale, ma- nor of Wakefield y Sec. whereunto john Earl of Warren laid claim, they beings by confent of both parties^ to remain in the king's hands, to be delivered to Henry^. Yet, in the 20th year of that king, this Earl ^^rr^;^ ' fettled this caflle on Maud de Nereford (his concubine) and on John and Thomas, his fons by her^'e It, how- ever, afterwards came to the crown, and was given by Edw. 3, to his fifth fon, Ed-- ^- Dugd. Bar, V. I, p. 81, y Ibid. p. 783. « Ibid. p. 82. S mund [ 258 ] mund de Langley^ from whom it defcended Richard^ Duke of Tork^ the competitor of Hen. 6. and who, between this place and Wakefield^ fought the battle with Henry s queen, in which he loft his life. He had appointed his army to rendezvous here, but was followed fuddenly by the queen be- fore his forces were colledled ; too gallant to bear the thoughts of being braved by her at the gate of his own caftle, he fal- lied out, was defeated, and killed. Mr. Thorejby had a ring which was found in this place, and fuppofed to have been his. On the right hand of the road, between this and Wakefield^ on the fpot where he fell, a ftone crofs was eredled, which was deftroyed in the late civil war On the bridge over the CaldeVy at the entrance of Wakefield^ ftands a chapel, built by Edward the 4th ; it belongs to the poor, was lately converted into a warehoufe, and is now lett to an old cloath's-man. In the front are remains of fome groups of figures, and other ornaments, Poffibly it might have fome reference to this bat- * When Lela?idm^diQ his notes, Sandall cz^ClehoXoxigti to the king. Itin. v. i . p. 35. A view of it, from a draught in the dutchy office, has been engraved by the Society of Antiquaries, 2 tle^ [ 259 J tie, or to the murder of the young ]Ear| of Rutland^ put to de^th in cold blood near the bridge, by Lord Clifford, a young man whofe barbarity ftained the luftre of the viftory, and gained him the name of l^he Butcher. He paid dear for it after- wards, as did the queen, for her weak and unworthy infults to the body of the gal- lant York. This lord was killed in the battle of T^owtoHy and his fons, then quite infants^ would have been facrificed to the manes of Rutla?id, if their mother had not preferved them, by fending the youngeft beyond fea, and concealing the eldeft at the houfe of a fhepherd^ where he was brought up as a peafant, without education, ahd re- mained in that ftate till the fettlemeiit of Hen. 7. on the throne, made it fafe to dif- cover him. His eftates were in the mean time in the hands of his enemies^ but he then got reftitution of them\ 111 1756 a number of groupes> in wood and alabafter^ were found in the roof of a houfe in the market-place, fuppofed to have belonged to the chapel on the bridge; or to Sandall caftle. One of them repre- fented St. Willicmy Arch bi (hop of Tork j another the martyrdom of St. Amphibalus ; ^ Dugd» Bar. v. !• p* 343r« S 2 Mofes [ 26o ] 7\Iofes and Aaron, Dwvid and Solomoji, Chrtji and the twelve Apojiles, P aid ^ John Baptift^ the three Magty St. Anne teaching the virgin, a mitred figure^ fuppofed the pa- fron faint of the chapel, the martyrdom of St. John the Baptiji in the cauldron^ with Polycarp and Ignatiusy the Roman ma- giftrate aild the executioners. They were about twelve inches high, painted red, and gilded. St. Anne was three feet high, and in the befl ftyle, whence this might rather he conjectured to be the patron faint, or principal figure ^ This town is handfome and well built^ and has long been noted for the clothing trade. There is a good bridge over the Calder^ which was made navigable fo far about 1698. Amongft other eminent men whom this place has produced, was the Pmdar who diftinguifhed himfelf as the antagonift of the bold Robinhood. The road from hence to Leeds , is through a country bla<:k with coal-pits, and the fmoak of the fire-engines-and glafs-houfes ; but the land is good. At Leeds the cloth- ing trade, that ftaple manufadnre of the kingdom, which employs^ fuch innumerable hands, and which is a more genuine fource c Gough^s ^-opngrafhy^ v. 2. p. 438- of ♦ [ 26 1 ] of wealth than the mines of Peru, is feen in all its glory- The cloth ufed to be ex- pofed on ftalls in the fireet, but in 1758 a large hall was built by fubfcription of 1589 clothiers, each of whom had a fpot affigned him in it for fale of his cloth. The payment was three guineas each ; and if the ftall is fold, no larger premium is permitted to be taken. A new hall is now finished on a Hill larger fcale, over the centre of which is an alferably room. It is almoft incre- dible how much bufinefs is done here 011 the cloth-market days, which are Tue/days z,vA Saturdays. The neighbourhood is full of the country houfes of the rich clo- thiers. About three miles off are the ruins of Kirkftall-abbey, a (lately Goibk building, in a vale watered by the river Aire. It was of the Ciftercian order, founded by Henry de Lacy in 1157, and was valued at the dilTolution at 329/. 2s. 11 d. The gateway is walled up, and converted into a farm-houfe, the arch plainly appearing. The abbots palace was on the fouth. The middle, north, and fouth ailes of the church remain, with nine pillars on each fide, but the roof of the middle aile is gone. Places for fix altars, three on each fide the high S 3 altar^ [ 262 ] ?LUar, are vifible. At the weft end is a tur- ret, with fteps up to it, leading to the roof of the fouth aile, overgrown with grafs\ The tower, huilt about the time of Hen. 8* is pretty entire*^; part of an arched cham- ber, leading to the cemetery, and part of the dormitory, remain. The wall under the eaft window is broken down, and there is no door at the weft, fo that there is a paflage through the whole building, and this being always open, the cattle ufe it for a ihelter, and make it very dirty. It is pity the noble owner (the Duke of Moun- tague) fliould not pay fo much regard to this ftrudlure, and the purpofes for which it was originally defigned, as to prevent this abufe of it. One fees with veneration thefe mouldering remains of the piety of our anceftors^; and, if it were only for the pidurefque fcenes which they exhibit in their prefent condition, one cannot but la- ment that they fliould want the little care which would preferve them very long from further deftru6lion. Near this place are faid to be remains of jfome T>anijh works. ^ January 27, 1779, ^hree fides of this tower fell down, and only the fouth fide of it remains. GoughU Topography ^ V. 2. p. 470. ' C 263 ] It is faid that there was a Roman pottery two miles from Leeds, at Hawcajier-rigg^ on Blackmore, and that there are fome vef- tiges of a Roman town at Adeir, Go to Harewoody where is Gawthorp-hall\ the feat of Mr. Edivin LafcelleSy formerly that of the Gafcoignes, lat^ of the Boul- ters At the village of that name, are fome remains of the caftle, once belonging to the Curasy demoliflied in the late civil war. Mr, Kingy who has taken very great pains in inveftigating the remains of an- cient caftle% fays, that what remains of this appears to have been chiefly built about the time of Edw. i, and to have been com- pleated in that of Edw. 3. The entrance is by two portals, in the firft of which is the groove for the portcullis. In the apart- ment over the fecond, is a large door way, which has three coats of arms over it ; the firft and third contain a lion rampant, be- ing the arms of Aldburgh^ charged on the breaft with a fleur-de-lis, to diftinguifli the branch which poffefied this caftle from the ^ ?hiL Tranf. N*. 222, p. 319; and W\ 282, p. 1285. ^ Now called Hare^wood-hou/e, * Of whom John Boulter, Efq. is fpoken of by the au- thors of Magna Britannia, in 173 as a pcrfon of great piety and benevolence. S 4 elder ^ [ 264 ] elder j the fecond contains an orle, being the arms of BalioL What is very extraor- dinary, this great arch only leads into the fmall room in the upper part of the tower of entrance^ where there could not be any communication with the grand entrance below, and it feems unconnedled with any other parts, except that little room, and the galleries in the wall. This little room is fuppofed to have been the chapel ^ in the freeze round it are 12 coats of arms cut in ftone, amongft which thofe of Aldburgh are repeated three times j Sir William de Aldburgh became poffeffed of this caille by gift of Robert de Infula, or lie rifle y Lord Lijley of Rugemonty in 38 Edw. 3. on his marriage with a daughter of that lord- Sir V/illiam had one daughter and heir, who married Sir Richard Redman^ in the reign of Hen. 4. From this repetition of the arms of Aldburgh, when only one of that name poffefled the place, Mr. King thinks the date of this part of the building., at leaft, may be fixed to the time of that Sir JVilliara, and he conjedures that the reft v/as built by Robert de Lijle, in the I'eign of Fjdw. i. The Redmans continued owners to the time of Elizabeth. C 265 ] On the ground floor of the caftle, is the appearance of a tomb, a thing not eafily to be accounted for in fuch a place. In the end walls are marks of a high-ridged roof having been let in, over the ftate apart- ments, but beneath the high parapet wallj fo as to leave room for a platform on each lide upon the leads ab'ove^ fecured by the parapet, which might be for the purpofe of placing warlike engines ^ The fame has been obferved at Cajileton. In the church is a monument for that upright and lirm judge, Sir William Gaf-- foigney who could not be prevailed on to pronounce what he thought an unjuft fen- tence againft Scrope, Archbifhop of Can-- terburyy when arrefted for an infurredtion againft Henry 4. and Vv^ho fo nobly fup- ported the dignity of the bench, by com- mitting the Prince of Wales (afterwards Henry 5.) for a contempt in court. To the honor of the prince, he fubmitted to the law, and to the honor of his father^ he commended the judge. He died in 141 2. There is alfo a curious tomb for the Redmansy fome time lords here, Mr. hafcelles built a range of neat houfes in the Village, intending to eftablifh a ribband ma- ? Arch. V. 6. p. 329, a nufadory ^ [ 266 ] nufadory ; unfortunately it did not fucceed, but the attempt does him honor. About half a mile from the village is the Hall^ which he has lately rebuilt on a new fpot of ground. It is a large, elegant houfe, ftancjing on an eminence, and from the fouth front overlooks a piece of water in the bottom. The gallery extends the whole weft end of the houfe, and is fe- venty-feven feet and an half long, by twenty-four feet and an half wide, and twenty-two high. The politenefs of the family, in moft obligingly permitting us, as travellers, to fee the houfe on a day on which it is not ufually (hewn, mull: not be pafled without mention ; it gave additional pleafure to that arifing from the light of a , place finifhed with fo much tafte. At Knarejborotigh are fome remains of the caftle. Handing on a high abrupt bank, overlooking the river Nidj which runs at the foot of it. It was built foon after the Conqueft by Se^^lo de Burgh y uncle by the father's fide to Eujiace Vefcy \ it came af- terwards to be the feat of the EJiotevilles^ z daughter of which family married Hugh de Morevilky one of the four knights who flew Thomas Becket \ and he, in her right, held this caftle^ and fled to it with his af- fi Hants I C 267 ] fiftants in that ad : they remained here Ihut up for a year, but fubmitting to the church, were pardoned on condition of performing a pilgrimage the Holy Se- pulchre. After this it came to the crown, and was given by Henry 3. to Hubert de Burgh ^ his faithful adherent, but the advifer of his arbitrary meafures. It again efcheated to the king, and was granted by Henry 3. to his brother Richard, Earl of Cornwall^ whofe fon EdmuJid dying without ilfue, it was given by Edward 2. to his favorite Piers de Gavejione. On his death it came once more into the royal pofTeffion, and in 44 Edw. 3. was granted to yohn of Gaunt ^ Duke of Lancajler, and has belonged to that dutchy ever lince. In 1399 Richard 2. after his depolition, was removed hither from Pickering caftle, and from hqnce carried to Pontefraci caille. where he ended his days. The townfmen defended it for Charles L after the battle of Marjlon-moor^ in the moft fpirited manner, and at laft being com- pelled to furrender, had leave to go where they pleafed. Lilburn^ vv^ho commanded for the parliament, deftroyed all the build- ings within the caftle walls, and the ma- terials [ 268 ] terials and furniture were fold \ The fouth front of the keep is partly {landing, and is about 48 feet high, between two round towers, which are placed one at each corner, Thefe towers are folid Il:one w^ork, except that one of them has a fniail window and a loop, with very narrow paffages leading to them; the Iov^qv part of that in which is the loop, is a vaulted room, now ufed as a prifon, which has no communication with the infide of the keep. The ground floor feems to have been ufed as ftore rooms. Adjoining to one of the towers is a fmall door, opening into an apartment which has jio communication v^hatever v^ith the infide of the keep ^ in this room the records of the foreft have long been kept. By the fide of this little door were the fteps lead- ing to the door of the apartment on the fecond floor; this door is ornamented with tracery work, fo as to have fom^ appearance of a window. Under thefe i&ps is a door to the vaults below. The great room on the fecond floor, appears to h^ve had an arched roof of ftone work At the bottom of the town, acrofs the bridge, is the famous dropping well^ fal- CamJ. V. 2. p. 94. Gro/e, * Mr, King has given a very exad defcription of this Caftle in Jrc-l\ \\ 6. p, 322. ling t ^69 ] ling from a rock of limeflone of coarfg grain ^ (which is nearly infulated from the neighbouring bank, from which it flipped down about the beginning of this century) in a perpetual ftream of many firings of water, of a petrifying quality. The river runs below, and for fome miles goes through a deep valley, wooded on the iides, fometimes to the water's edge. There are three other wells here ; the fweet fpa^, or vitrioline well ; the fhinking, or fulphur w^ell (which tinges filver with a copper co-- lor, ovv^ing to its having the addition of a vitriolic fait ^) ^ and St. Monga/j, or KeU'-^ tegeras welL This >S/. Mongah was a Scot^ tijh faint. A mile from KnareJborough\ near Grim-^ ble-brtdgey is a place called St. Robert's Cave, in the time of King John the ha-* bitation of a hermit of that name, fon of one who had been twice mayor of Tork, but he difliking the world, left his patrimony^ and after having been a fliort time a monk at Morpethy retired to this place"". This gave rife to a religious foundation by Richard Earl of Cornwall, of the order Qf the Holy "Trinity for redemption of cap- ^ Short, p, 106. ^ J Lel'ghy b, I. p. 34. ^ Lelandy Itin. v. I. p. 82. [ 270 ] tives. It was lurrendered hy the prior 1539. The cave is dug in the rock above the river Nid^ and has been lately made remarkable by the difcovery of a murder^ committed there about fifteen years before by one Eugene Ararriy a man, who> without education> had acquired a conliderable fhare of learning by intqnfe application ; his de- fence is perhaps as mafterly a performance as has been often feen on fueh an occaiion, and would have done honor to a better caufe. About two miles from Knarejborough is Plumptoriy an old feat of an old family of that name, which flourifhed from the Conqueft till the middle of the prefent century, when this place, with an eftate of feven hundred pounds a year, was bought by Mr. Daniel Lafcelles^ He de- ligned to have built a houfe, which he be- gan, made his kitchen-garden, and formed a pleafure ground in a romantic fpot, but then defifted, and went to live at Gold/- 'worthy another purchafe of his, two miles off. The company at Harrogate, which is at a fmall diftance, have the advantage of what has been done, a vilit to thelo gardens beino^ one of their excurfions. Mr,' [ ] Mr. Lafcelles found in a bottom near the hoafe> a fmall piece of water, with a num- ber of rocks ftanding up in detached pieces of various forms ; he enlarged the water confiderably, forming various bays between the rocks, and covering the tops of them with greenfward, flirubs, and flowers, often leaving the fides quite bare. The walks are carried fometimes between, fometimes by the fide, fometimes on the top of thefe rocks, which prefent themfelves in a va- riety of fhapes. The autumnal crocus grows wild in the paftures here in great plenty. Not far from hence is Copgrave^ where is a memorable epitaph, fimilar to that of Mr. Heyricky mentioned at Leicejler. It is for jfohn JVincuppy who was red:or thereof fifty-four years ; pious, charitable, and peaceable ; never fued any, nor was fued ; lived fifty-two years with his wife, had fix children, and a numerous family (boarding and teaching many of the gentry) out of which not one died in all that time; him- felf was the firft, July 8, 1637, in his eighty-fixth year". The foreft of Knar^Jhorough is now in- clofed ; the land, lately of little lafe, is ^ Cumd. V. 2, p. 95 • I [ 272 ] now converted into arable and good paftufeo 1:'he family of the Slingfoys, ftiil flourifh-^ ing here^ were made rangers of this foreft in the time of Fjdw. i. Their feat is at Screven-hallj a handfome houfe, with very pleafant walks, and fine view's. Go from hence to the little town of Ripley, and lodge there. Here is a feat of "S^'n^ John Ingle by y whofe family has refided in this place for ages. It is famous for the birth oi George Ripley , the cele- brated chymift, who lived in the 15th century, and is faid to have difcovered the philofopher's ftone. Near this place were found, in 1734^ two pigs of lead, in- icxih^^y Imp. Cues. Domitiano Avg. cos. Vlly one of which is now in the hands jf Sir John Ingleby \ The next day pafs by a new houfe^ build« ing by Mr. Meffengei^ late owner of Foun-- tain's abbey, and fo to Ripon. At Ripon was a monaftery, built by Wilfrid, Archbilhop of Tork, a prelate^ who prefuming on his great wealth and power, behaved vv'ith fuch infolence to Eg f rid. King of Northumberland, that he deprived him of his fee; and defpiiing the PhiL Tranf, N^ 459, p, 56c; and Cough's Top. v. 2. authority [ -73 ] authority of the Pope, to whom Wilfrid had appealed, piit him into prifon, for daring to appeal to a foreign power againft him. On the death of Egfrid^ he made his peace with Alfred^ who fucceeded to the crown, and obtained a reftitution of his fee of Tork-j but the fame infolence produced /a fecond banidiment : he now found favor w^ith Ethelred, King of the Mercians, who made him Bifliop of Lei-- cejier ; but his behavior here was fucb, that he was not long after degraded. Such, however^ was the merit of his appeal to Romey that it made a faint of him^. Before Wilfrid's foundation, there had been a monaftery of Scots here, of whom Eata, Abbot of Melros, was chief. It ttood in a bottom, a fmall diftance from the minfter. An abbot of Fountaynes got a grant of the chapel, part of which he pulled down, and rebuilt it, intending to have made it a cell to his abbey • when Leiand vifited this place, a cqauntry prieft was maintained there, and he obferves, that there were three croffes (landing in a row at the eafb end of the chapel garth, of very ancient workmanfhip, and monuments of fome notable men buried there He ob- P Lela-nd, Itin. v. I. p. 76. T ^ It in, V. I. p. 77. ferves. [ 1 ferves, that woollen cloth ufed to be made in the town, but idlenefs was then fore encreafed, and cloth-making almoft de- cayed. Wilfrid's building was entirely de- molifhed by the Danes, but was re-edified hy Odo, Archbifhop of Canterbury'. This place was in fuch favor with Atheljlan, that he granted a charter, by which, amongft other privileges, all St. Wilfrid's men were to be believed in all courts by their Tae and Nae\ At the diffolution, the whole of the revenues were feized into the hands of the crown. In 1604 a petition was prefented to Anne, Queen of James L for fettling a college here, in the manner of an univerfity, for the benefit of the bor- ders of England and Scotland^ She ap- proved the plan, but it was not carried into execution ; however, James refounded the church, making it coniift of a dean, fubdean, and fix prebendaries, allowing them 247 /• per ann. out of the former pre- bendal lands. There is now a collegiate church with three ileeples, or towers, large, but very plain. The fpires have been long fince blown down. This church fuffered much Caind. V. 2. p. 94, 95. « Dugd, Mon, v. I. p. 1 73. ^ The plan is inferted in Peck's Dejid. Cur. v. z. lib. 7. p. 56, in t 275 j in the civil war in 1643, but has beer! well repaired fince. Under the church is a narrow, w^inding paffage, called aS*^". Wilfrid's Needle^ heretofore fuppofed to have been a trial of female chaftity, fuch as had made a flip, not being able to go through. The manor was granted by Queen Ma7y to the fee of Torky to which it now be- longs. Here is a free grammar-fchool, founded by Queen Mary in the third year of her reign, and well endowed. There is alfo a blue-coat hofpital^ founded about 1672 by Zacharias Jepfon^ an apothecary of Torky for the maintenance and education of 20 orphan boys, or the fons of poor free- men of the town, who are taken care o£ from the age of feven to fifteen ^ and any two of them who may be deemed fit for the univerfity, are to have an exhibition of 10 1, a year each, for feven years, at Cam- bridge. Such as are apprenticed at Ripo?2^ have 5/. given with them» The eftates are vefted in ten truflees. The market-place is very large, having in the centre an obelifk of free ftone, 82 feet high, on the top of which is a bugle horn, the arms of the town. Having fuf- fered much by the weather, it was rebuilt T 2 by [ 276 ] by Mr. Aijlabicy in 178 1. It was formerly the cuftorn for the Vigillarius^ or Wakeman (who feems to have been the chief ma- giftrate till ^ames I. granted a charter to the town, making it a corporation, con- fifling of mayor, recorder, 12 aldermen, and 24 afiiftants) to order that a horn fliould be blown every night at nine o'clock, and if any houfe or (hop was broken open or robbed, between that time and fun-rifing, thfe lofs was to be made good by the town, for which purpofe each houfeholder paid four-pence a year, or, if he had a back door to another ftreet, eight- pence". The horn is ftill blown, tho' the tax, and the benefit arifmg from it, are dif- continued. At this town, in 1695, were found many Saxon coins, namely, of their brafsy?/Vr^ whereof there were eight to a penny. They were of the later race of the kings of Deira^ or rather the SubreguHy after Egbert had reduced it to be part of his monarchy''. Two miles from Ripo7t is a fulphur well, called Oldfield SpauK It lies between two hills, near an old abbey, in a very romantic fituation, refembling Matlock ; it was dif- CQvered about the end of the laft centuryo Gent' s Hiftory of Ripon, ^ Camd, V. 2. p. 94^, 95. The [ -77 ] The fpring is always of the fame height, not afFeifled by rain or drought, but boiis up with great noife againll: a change of weather ^\ About four miles eaft of Ripo?2, towards Boroughbridgej is Newby^ the feat of Mr. Weddelly on the banks of the Eure. The fituation is low, but the grounds are laid out to the beil: advantage ; and whatever is wanting without, is amply made up within the houfe, which is difpofed and furniflied in Adams's beft mianner. There are a few good pidures of the firll maflers, and fuch a colledion of fcatues, bulls, bas-reliefs, urns, farcophagus's, and antique marbles, as few houfes in England can (hew ^ a- mongft the ftatues, the Venus holds the firft place. A little way from this town is Studley Parky the feat of the late Mr. Aijlabie. The gardens were begun about 60 years ago by his father (who married the heirefs of the MallorieSy an ancient family) and have long been celebrated as the fineft in the north of England. They are at a fmall diftance from the houfe, in a valley, in which are feveral pieces of water, too much in the old, formal flile, fuppiied by y Short, p. 297, T 3 a little [ ] a little ftream, which comes from FouU'- tain s-abbey ; the hills on each lide are co- vered with woods, in which are inter- fperfed feveral temples and buildings, fo placed as to form excellent points of view from the different walks, which are car- ried along the fides and tops of the de- clivities. The late owner was at lad enabled to make the place compleat by the addition of this abbey, which it was many years before he could obtain. It flands dt the upper end of a vale, which commences at the termination of the old gardens, and is finely wooded on each fide % thro' this runs the ftream, which at the turn of the hill is formed into a beautiful piece of water. Before this purchafe was made, only an imperfed: view of the ab- bey was catched from one of the feats, much interrupted by the trees, which flood immediately before it ; thefe are now cleared away, fo as to give a full fight of the mag-^ pificent ruins. This celebrated abbey was founded in 1 1 32, by Thurjiariy Archbifiiop of Tork^ for monks of the Cijiercian order, and was built with ftone taken from the rocks in the adjoining hill. Some yew trees re- :|xiain in the wood, faid to have been plantec^ [ 279 ] planted by the firjft monks. By degrees they obtained very large pofleffions, and had an amazing quantity of plate, cattle, &c. Juft before the diffolution, their plate at j^s. ^d. per oz. was valued at above 700/. they had 2356 oxen, cows and calves ; 1 326 fheep ; 86 horfes, and 79 fwine. Their revenues amounted, according to Burton^ to more than iioo/. a year, at the diffolu- tion. William ThurJ]:, or T^hirjke^ the lafl abbot but one, was afterwards hanged at Tyburn^ together wuth the abbot of y^r- vauxy or Joreval, and four others, who had been concerned in the infurredlion un- der AJkej in Torkjhire, called the Pilgrimage of Grace J one objedl of which was a refto- ration of the abbies ^ This abbey, with others, was granted to Sir Richard Grepam, who fold it to Sir Stephen ProSfor^ whofe daughter and heirefs carried it into the family of MeJJenger, of one of whofe defcendants it was lately bought by Mr. Aijlabie. The ruins are very confiderable ; the walls of the church, a large and lofty tower, part of tho cloifters entire, and of the dormitory over them, and of the kitchen and refectory, &c. Hill ^ Willises Mitred Abbies y V. 2, p. 271. T 4 remain. [ 28o ] remain o The ftream runs under one end of the cloifters^ and is there arched over. The church and town of Ripon make a fine termination of a view from the park. About five miles from Studleyy Mr. Aif- labie made fome walks, and eredled forae buildings in a fequeftered and moft romantic place, called llackfalL A little rivulet, which rifes on Grevilk-' thorpe-moor, runs into a deep, woody glen, and forms at the entrance three or four fmall pools, and in iffuing out of them, makes fo many little cafcades, judicioufly varied in their forms. It then haftens with precipitance to the river Eure^ at the bot- tom of the dale, rufhing over heaps of ftones and pebbles which obftrud its paf- fage, and make a multitude of falls, con- tinually differing in fhape and fize. On the right rifes a very ileep hill, covered with underwood to the top, thro' which is a waterfall of confiderable height ; on the left, the walk is formed under a ihade of lofty trees, growing on a fteep bank. At the bottom of this walk is a fmall, plain building, called FiJJoers Hall (from the pame of the gardener) from whence is a vievir E 281 ] view of the river Enre^:, whofe noife had been before heard, roaring over great heaps of ftones, torn from the adjoining rocks in its fury, when fwelled with rains. It runs here in a bend, round a point of high land on the oppofite fide, clothed with a hanging wood from the brink to the v/ater's edge, but is foon loft between the woody hills. Returning back a little way, a path to the right leads thro' a fine wood of lofty trees, which reach from the top of the high, abrupt hill, then being on the left, to the river fide. In fome parts the w^ood has been cleared, to vary the ground with fpots of greenfward, leaving a few fcat- tered trees. In one of thefe fpots a ruilic building is placed, looking on a confider- able water«fail, the top of which is hid by the over-hanging boughs this runs into a bafon, in v/hich a high fountain plays out of a rock placed in the middle. Keeping near the fide of the river, it (hews itfelf in various views, the oppofite bank generally covered with wood, but in one place prefenting a lofty perpendicular face ^- This river runs to FIuU, but lofes its name a little below Eoroughbridge, at Oufeboiirny where the little brook called Oufe, runs into it, and gives name to its further coiirfe. it receives in its track the S^'jale, the Nid, the Parivent^ &C. of [ 282 ] of bare rock. The fame fort of rocks ap- pear in the hill on the left, the trees being thinned to fhew them. Near the end of this walk, a flender rill drops from an impending bank, thro' the ftem of a tfee, into the river. Turning now to the left, afcend the hill which overhangs the path you have fol- lowed, and from various ftations have va- rious views of the river and country. The fpire of Majham church is a beautiful ob- ject from feveral places. The views of the country become more extenfive as the ground rifes, till coming to a building on the brink of a precipice, and on the highefl: part of the hill, a noble fcenery opens. In the bottom feveral reaches of the river are feen at once ; the hanging wood on its farther bank, a particular green meadow on its fummit, farm-houfes, gentlemen's feats, cultivated land, the church of "Tanjield^ with its bridge over the water, the churches of Topcliffe and Thir/k^ York Minjlery the whole bounded by Black Hambledoriy and other hills in the horizon, on one of which the White Mare of Wejlon Clrfy or White Stone Cliff\ is vifible in a clear day, com- ^ A mark in a hill, like the White Horfe in Berkfiirey }Vhitehc'.f- crcfsy in Bucks, SiC, pofe [ 1 pofe this beautiful landfcape. The build- ing which affords this prcfpeft, appears from different parts of the walk to be a ruin, but has two neat rooms in it, where, or in Fijhers Hally Mr. Aijlabie fometimes dined, or indulged his friends with the li- berty of fo doing, and for this purpofe kitchens are built near. Prdceeding onward, a new view opens of the principal waterfall mentioned in the firft walk, but it here appears to come from a much greater height, than it did when feen before, the upper part not be- ing vifible there. From hence you come to the place at which you firft entered. From Hackfall it is three miles to a lit- tle town, called Majham, the market-^place of which is uncommonly fpacious, built on three fides, but the houfes fo low and mean, that it has the appearance of a de- ferted place. The church is at the end of the fouth fide, remarkably neat. In it is a very handfome monument for Sir Mar-^ madiike Wyvilly who died in 1617, and his lady ; he was defcended from a co-heirefs of the Lords Scroope^ of Mapjain'y one of whom was beheaded for a confpiracy againft Hen. 5. There is another good monument for Mr. Danbyy to whofe family the ma- % nor [ 284 ] nor belongs, and whofe feat is at Swinton^ in the road to Ma/ham. The great tythes are the property of T^rinity college, Cam^ bridge. The manor of the rectory of this place was the endowment of a prebend in the cathedral of Torky and perhaps the richeft in the kingdom. In 1534 it was valued at i36Aayear. In 1546 it was refigned by Robert Peterfon^ then prebendary, who conveyed it to Chancellor TVriotteJly, and his heirs, and it has been ever fince a lay fee ^ Mr. Danhys improvement of the jmoors, which lie behind his houfe in immenfe tradts, is^fo obfervable, and fo worthy of imitation, that too much cannot be faid of it. He has a colliery, which employs many hands, and the cottages of the work- men are fcattered about on the moors. Some years ago he gave leave to the cot-^ tagers to inclofe a field contiguous to their gardens, that they might, if induftrious, raife their own corn. A few examples had great efFedhs, and now there is not a collier without a little farm, from four to 20 acres, on which he keeps a cow or two, and raifes corn. The hours of work in the ^ Willises Cath, v, T. p. 1 5 2, colliery C 285 ] colliery are few, and leave fufficient time for the . cultivation of this land. This fcheme has introduced a fpirit of induftry, in lieu of the idlenefs which ufed to pre- vail after the work in the coal-pits was fi- nillied for the day, and fixes the men, who before this, on the leaft difguft, ufed to run from one colliery to another ^ Mr. Arthur Toung mentions a mofi: ex- traordinary inflance of induftry in one of thefe colliers, named "James Crofts^ who has reclaimed nine acres of moor, much incumbered with flone, the whole of which in the inclofure and cultivation, has been performed by his own hands, with the help of one Galloway ; for years he fpent 20 hours of the 24, in unremitted labor. Mr. Toung was fo ftruck with the fpirit of this poor man (who feems to have been unaccountably negleded by Mr. Danby^ notwithftanding his own turn for improve- ments) that he mofl humanely propofed a fubfcription to raife a fum for enabling him to proceed in the improvement of a larger tradt. What a lofs to the public^ that fuch a genius for agriculture fhould be cramped, and for want of a fum, lefs than ^ Toung^s North Tour, V. 2, p. 289. t 286 3 is often fpent in the capital on a fingle diri'* ner ! By the fide of the road, three miles be-^ fore coming to Middleham, are fome re- mains of Jore'val abbey. It was originally begun in 1145 P^^^^ ^incianoy a monk of Savignyy of the Cijiercian order, in a different place, and was then called the abbey of Forsy Wenjley-daky and Cha-- rityy and fometimes Joreval ; but 1 1 years afterwards was removed hither, when it got the name of Joreval, i. e. Eureval, from the river Eure running near it* Adam Sodbury, the laft abbot, was one of thofe who were attainted in 1539% pro- bably for having been concerned in the Pilgrimage of Grace, which was flirred up by the clergy, as mentioned before. At the diflblution it was valued at 455/. los. ^d. according to Speed, and 234/. i^s. ^d. by Dugdale, and was granted to Matthew, Earl of Lenox, and Lady Margaret, his wife. It now belongs to the Earl of Aylejbury^ who has a large eftate hereabouts. Stone coffins have been dug up in the burial grounds, and converted by the farmers into hog- troughs ; in the coffins have been found cloth and ribbands, retaining their * Carte ^ v. 3. p. 149. natural [ 287 ] natural colors. The walls have been pulled down to make faro^-houfes and fences, and to repair the roads. At the foot of the right hand hill ftands Dambyj the feat of Mr. Scroope. Pafs a handfome bridge over the Cover, which runs out of Coverdale, and joins the Eure a little below. In this dale are forne remnants of Cover ham-abbey^ or Prio?j, founded about the 14th John by Ralph, fon of Robert, Lord of Middleham. He removed hither fome canons of the Prcc- monjlratenfian order, from a houfe at Swane-- hyy founded by Helwijia^ his mother, daugh- ter and heirefs of Ranulph de Glanville, the famous chief juflice, and he and feveral of his defcendants were buried hcre^ It was one of the lelTer abbies, furrendered 27 8. having then in lands, &c. 207/. I4J'. ^d. a year, but reduced by penfions and expences to a clear income of 160/. iSj*. 3^. In 4 Philip and Mary, it was fold by com- miflioners of the crown to Humphry Onne^ It ftands on the north fide of the rapid brook of Cover, in the dale called from it Coverdale, and in a difmal lituation ; not- withftanding which, an owner of the name of JVray, erected from the ruins a dwel- ^ Dugd. Bar. v. i. p. 53, 292. [ 288 ] ling houfe adjoining to the fpot. A few years ago two ftatues^ larger than the life^ were dug up here> in the habit of knights templars, in a cumbent pofture, ornamented with foliage and animals, but of moil: rude workmanfhip ^. From the bridge, having the Eure on the right, fee the lofty fragments of Middle-- ham-cajiky overlooking the town. Largg pieces of the walls have fallen down^ and the mortar feems lefs durable than it is ge- nerally found in thofe ancient buildings* Alan the 2d, Earl of Brittany and Rich^ mundy gave this and other manors to Ri- ialdy his younger brother^ who poffelTed it at the time of the conqueror's furvey. Ro-^ berty his grandfon, ereded this caftle about the year 11 90. On his death, in the 54th of Hen. 3. it defcended, with the foreft of Coverdaky to Mary, one of his daughters^ who had married Robert de Nevill^, irt whofe family it continued till feized by Edw. 4. who had been imprifoned here un- der the care of the Archbilhop of Tork^ brother to the great Earl of JVarwick, but made his efcape, either by the careleflhefs or defign of his keeper S if it was tha S Grofe, h Dugd. Bar. v. I. p. 52, 53. ^ ibid. p. 306, latteri t 289 J latter^ the king made hini a very ill returrt^ when a few years afterwards, under pre- tence of viliting him at his feat at The More^ or Mote^ in Hertjh^dflnre^ he feized all the plate which the archbifliop had got there of his own, and had borrowed of others, in order to entertain him the more magnificently. Stili worfe, he kept hinx in prifon at Calais four years, in which time he was fo ill-ufed, that he died foou after being releafed. The outer part was built or rebuilt by one of the Nevills^. The only fon of Richard 3. died young at this caftle, and from that time it is not mentioned in hiftory. The late Earl of Holdernejfe was conftable of it, as his fa- mily had long been y but in the beginning of the laft century it was inhabited by Sir Henry LindleyK From hence is a fine view of the dale^ with the winding river, the villages and woods, and over them it extends to a great diftance towards the eafl. The entrance was on the north iidcj next the town ; feme part of a moat appears on the fouth and eaft fides. At a little diilanee on the fouth fide are two artificial mounts^ midway be-^ Leland^ Itin* v. I. p, 76, ^ Grofe* U tween [ 290 ] tween which and the caftle, is a remarkaMy diftindl and loud echo"". The town of Middleham ftands on high ground, overlooking the beautiful valley called Wenjley'daky from a village in it of that name, the church of which Lord Scroope had a licence to make collegiate in the I Hen. 4. but it does not appear that he carried his defign into execution. The dale is of confiderable width, lying be- tween two hills, adorned with feveral vil- lages, and is watered by the river Eurc^ which runs through it with many wind-- rngs. From Middleham the paffage over the river is by a ford ; but after rains you mull: return as far as Coverbridge, or go up as high as Weiijley ; but to fee the moft of the vale, the way is to go by Cover-bridge^ and thro' the villages of Spenythorney A^^m^ byy Leybur72y and IVenJley. The meandring of the river thro' the moft verdant pafturea, whofe hedges are filled with trees, the fcattered villages, the hanging woods, the eontraft of the bare hill-tops, form all to- gether a moft captivating fcene. From a ridge of rock above Leyburny the whole is viewed to great advantage. At Armby is ^ Qrofe, a fell ' t 291 ] fall of water, which after rain is cohfi^ derable; In Wenjley church is a curiouHy carved pew, brought from the monaflery of St. Agatha^ near Richmond y which formerly belonged to the Lords Scroopy of Bolton, On this is ftill legible the name of Henry Lord Scroop, carved on the wood, in text- hand, with other infcriptions, now much broken". In the middle of the dale (lands Bolton- bally and at fome diftance^ under a fine grove^ Bolton-cajile. The prefent houfe was built by Charlesy Marquis of Win^ chejiery created Duke of Bolton by Will. 3^ He was a man of the mofi: extraordinary difpofition ; fometimes he would not fpeaj^ for weeks together, at others he would not open his mouth till fuch an hour of the day, when he thought the air was pure% We have lately heard of a hunting by torch-light in France, to amufe the king of Denmark when there, but it was not a novelty, having been prac^ifed by this gentleman* But with all thefe odditres he was a man of deep policy, and played his cards with great art in the difficult times of Charles 2. yames and JVilliam. « Grc/s. ® Burnett^ s hiftory of his own time. Tub anno 1699. U 2 A pillar [ ] A pillar on the hill, which fronts the houfe, commemorates the gratitude of a former owner, who buried under it a race- horfe, by whofe fpeed he recovered the eftate, which his deilrudive paffion for gaming had once loft. It may ferve as a iifeful memento. By marriage of a natural daughter of Emanuely Lord Scroope, (created by Cha. i. Earl of S-underlandy who had no legitimate ilfue) this eftate came to an anceftor of the prefent owner. In the houfe are a few portraits of that family ; amongft them is one of Henry, Lord Seroope, one of thofe noblemen who ligned the famous letter to the pope, threatening that if he did not permit the divorce between He?t. 8. and Queen Catherine^ they would fejed: his fupremacy. The eftate round this manfion is very confiderable, with many lead mines^ in it, from which the duke receives one fifth of the fmelted lead, and has no farther trouble than to carry it to market. Bolton-cajik was built by Richard^ Lord ScroopCy the honeft and fpirited chancelloi" of Richard 2. but whofe anceftors had an eftate here at leaft as early as 24 £. i. Leland fays, it was 18 years in building, and the coft, 1000 marks a year, which makes 12,000/. He fays that the timber ufed [ 293 ] ufed about it was moflly fetched from the foreft of Rnglehy^ in Cumberland^ by re- lays of ox teams placed on the road. He mentions chimneys made in the fide of the walls for conveyance of the fmoke, as a thing he had not been accuftomed to fee"^. He alfo mentions an aftronomical clock be- ing here. The caflle is of a quadrilateral figure, the greatefl length being from north to fouth, but no two of its fides equal 3 the fouth is 184 feet, the oppcfite 187, the weft 131, and the eaft 125. It has four right lined towers, one at each angle, but neither their faces nor flanks are equal; each of the former meafuring on the north and fouth fides 47 feet and an half, and on the eaft and weft only 35 feet and an half: the latter vary from feven feet and an half to fix feet. In the centre between the two towers, both on the north and fouth fides, is a large projefting right-angled buttrefs or turrett \ that on the north fide is 15 feet in front, its weft fide 14, its eaft 16; on the fouth fide the front is 12 feet, its eaft nine, its weft 12. * Mr. Ki7ig, in defcribing the very ancient caflle of Con-- niJhoT^ough, in Torkjhire, which he attributes to the Saxons, mentions a chimney formed in the wall which muft have- been co-eval with the building. U 3 The [ 294 ] The grand entrance was in the eaft cur^ tain, near the fouthermoft tower ^ there were three other doors, one on the norths two on the weft fide. The walls are feven feet thick:, 97 high. It was lighted by feveral ftages of windows. The chief lodg-- ing rooms were in the towers. The eaft and north fides are moftly in ruins, the weft part is in good repair. One of the towers, which was the principal objed: of attack in the civil wars, fell down in the night in November ij6i. Mary^ Queen of Scots^ was confined here under the care of Lord Scroope in 1^6^^ but was foon removed to ^iitbiiry caftle ia Staffordjhire. Her chamber is fhewn. In the civil wars this caftle was gal- lantly defended for the king by Col. Scroope^ but at length furrendered pn honorable terms. In this parifti lived that fingular inftance of longevity Henry "Jenkins^ who died De- cember 8, 1670, aged 169 years. After he was more than 100 years old he ufed to fwim in the rivers, and was called upon as an evidence to a fad: of 140 years paft. P Thefe mearureiDents are taken from Mr. Grofe^s very elegant work, to which I am indebted for niuch inforrrva- lion. [ 295 ] He was once a butler to Lord Conyers^ after that a fifherman, and at laft: a beggar. In the road from hence to AJkrigg and 'Richmond^ are the falls of the river 'Eure, <:alled jitte-fcarre (from the rocks between which the river runs) corruptly Ayjgarth Force^ or The Force^ which are lefs known than they deferve to be^ and which, in- deed, exceed any expectation that can well be formed of them, and any defcription which I can give. Crofs the river at Boho?2-ball, and the right hand road leads to a fmail public- houfe near Ayfgarth church ; here the horfes may be left* Go down a fharp de- fcent to the bridge, turn on the right, and foon quitting the high road, go on the right again, thro' a little wood, and over three or four fields, by a blind path, to the bank from whence the principal fall is feen. The romantic fituation of the handfomc church of Ayfgarth, on an eminence, fo- litarily overlooking thefe catarads (fays the ingenious Mr. Maude, chief agent to the Duke of Bolton here) the decency of the ftrudure within and without, its perfed: re-» tirement, the rural church-yard, the dying founds of water amidfl: woods and rocks, wildly intermixed with the variety and U 4 magni^ [ 296 ] inagi^ude of the furrounding hills, concur to render this fcene at once awful and pictu- re fque, in a very high degree. The falls that are above the bridge, are feen on defcending to it^ but are feen to greater advantage on the return. You there view them thro' a fpacious light arch, v^^hich prefents the river at every ftep in variety of forms. On the left is the fleeple, emerging from a copfe. From the bridge the water falls near half a mile, upon a furface of flone, in feme places quite fmooth, in others worn into great cavities, and inclofed by bold and iGhrubbed cliffs ; in others it is interrupted by huge maffes of rock {landing upright in the middle of the current. It is every where changing its face, and exhibits fome grand fpecimens before it comes to the chief defcent, csllcd T&e Force. The whole river, which is of conlider- able breadth, here pours down a ledge of irregular broken rock, and falling to a great depth, boils up in fheets of w^hite foam, and is fome time before it can re- cover itfelf fufliciently to purfue its courfe^ which it does at laft with great rapidity. No wo?yIs can do juftice to the grandeur of this fcene, which was faid by Dr. Pococke to exceed that of the Cataj^aBs of the Nile, nor [ ] nor is it much lefs difficult for the pencil to defcribe it ; I do not think that the very accurate and judicious Mr. Pennant (ex- cellent as his plates in general are) fiiews half its magnificence. The bridge has on it the date of 1539, which is p[obably a ftone of the old bridge, the prefent one feeming of much later date. Returning back to the bridge you have a full view of the falls above it, as mentioned before, and here your horfes may meet you, for if you go to the public-houfe you m.uft return and crofs the river again to go to AJkrigg. This place is in a bottom, and for a mile or two before coming to the defcent of the hill, the road runs along the edge of a fteep declivity on the left, guarded by a ftone wail. On the fide of this bank is an old houfe of Mr. Weddell, called Nappa-hall, which he has quitted for New by y near lllpon. This was formerly the feat of the Medcalfsy fo numerous a family, that Camden fays Sir Chrijiopher Medcalf] the chief of them, v/ent with 300 horfe, all of his family and name, and in the fame habit, to receive the juftices of affize, and eondudt them to Tork. When C ^.98 ] When here, I ought to have gone to Richmond, a few iBiles ofF, a town delight- fully fituated on the Swaie, where is a caftle built by Ala72, Earl of Bretagne^ nephew of William the Conqueror. The late Earl of Holderneffe had a feat here, which he fold to Laurence Dundajsy who, by that and a fubfequent purchafe, obtained the reprefen- tation of the borough. AJkrigg is a fmall town, with decent accommodation at the George. The inha- bitants are employed in knitting ftockings, of which they make great quantities. In this neighbourhood are fome remark- able water-falls, two of which, called Mill Gilly and Whitfield Gill, are within an eafy walk from the town. Another called Har-- drow-force or foJSy is five miles oft'. The courfe of a fmall flream leads up a meadow to Mill Gill, where the water has forced a paflage of two or three yards in width, through the rocks, and falls down perpendicularly about 16 yards : feen from below, it has a confiderable efFeft, the rock appearing to have been perforated merely to give it way. Higher up the fame flream, is Whit- field Gilly where the flream coming to the edge of a rock, has a fall of 22 yards 5 but this [ -99 ] this can only be feen from the high graun(5, the bottom being fcarcely, if at all, accef- fible. From the hill above this place, the river Bain is feen running from Semerewatery hy a little village, called Bainbridgey into the Eure. This piece of water is about a mile fquare, and lies about three or four miles from AJkrigg. Kx the junction of thefe two ilreams, there was a Roman garrifon ; and upon the hill (which they call Burgh) are the ground-works of an old fortification, about five acres in compafs j and under it, to the eaft, the tracks of many houfes were vifible in Ca?ndens time. He found there a fragment of a Roman infcription, in a very fair charadter, with a winged vidlory fup- porting it ; from which he conje6tures, that the fort was formerly called Braccbium^ which had been made of turf, but was then built of ftone and mortar ; and that the 6th cohort of the Nervii was garrifoned here. They alfo feem to have had a fum-- mer camp on that high hill, hard by, which is called Ethelbury^. A ftatue of Aurelius Commodusy the emperor, was dug up here (in Camden s time) in the habit of He?^cules^ his right hand armed v/ith a club^ At ^ Qamd. V. 7f> p. ug* Giggle- [ ] Giggle/wick^ a mile from Settle, is a well, which ebbs and flows much oftener than that at Tidfwell. In this neighbourhood, are feveral remarkable caves, of which we had fuch imperfect information, or rather hints only, that we did not vifit them. A full account of them, has been lately given in a pamphlet, called A Tour to the Caves,'' to which I muft refer for a parti- cular defcription ; but {hall juft mention the names of fome. The route feems to be from Afkrigg to Ingleton^ between which places, is Hurtlepoty 2, round deep hole, 30 or 40 yards diameter, and as much in depth, to the furface of a deep black water ; Gin- glepot ; and Weathercoat Cave, in which is a fubterranean cataradt. Three miles be- fore coming to Ingleton, a few yards out of the road, on the right, the river Weate ox Greta, gufhes out of feveral fountains, all within twenty or thirty yards of each other, having run about two miles under ground, though making its appearance in tv/o or three places within that diftance. Near Ingleton, is Tordas-cove, in the vale of Kingfdale. Ingleboroiigh is a very lofty hill, the name of which is derived from the Saxon, and iignifies a rocky hill fire ftation ; on the top, was [ ] was a beacon, ered:ed by the Roma?! garviion at Overhorough^ five miles diftant, and was extremely well adapted to that purpofe, being itfeif feen at great diftances, and com- manding a view of many other hill-tops. It is a mile in height, 3987 yards above the level of the fea, the bafe near 20 miles in circumference. The afcent is at the be- ginning even and gradual, but becomes, by degrees, more rugged and perpendi- cular, and is at laft fo fleep, that it is with difficulty you get up, and it is only in fome places that you can do it at all. The top is level, almofl a mile in circumference^^ having the ruins of a wall round it, and of the beacon. On this fpot races have been run ; but the rock is fo fcantily covered with earth, that little grafs grows on it. From hence there is a moft unbounded profped:'. Near the top, on the eaft fide, is a ftratum of fcone, like the Derby flnre marble, full of entrochi ; white fea lliells are found in the black and brown marble, which is dug here'. A number of fprings rife on the fides of this hill, fame near the fummit, which fall into holes or chafms when they come to the limeftone, and paf- fing under ground fome way, burft out again ^ Gent. Mag. 1 761. p, 1-27, 148. ^ Tour to the Caves. towards t 3^^ ] towards the bafe. Some of thefe cavern^ may be defcended, and the paffage purfued to a great diftance ; fome of them are dry^ others having a continual run of water, fuch as Blackjide Cove, Sir William's Cove, At- kinfons Chamber j &c. Johnfons jfacket-^ hole refembles a funnel in fliape, and is very deep i a ftone thrown into it makes a rumbling noife, and may be heard a con fi- derable time. There is another called Gaper-Gilly into which a ftream fallSj and after a fubterraneous paffage of upwards of a mile, breaks out again near Claphamy and at laft joins the Lon or Lune, which runs Ijy Lancaji\er\ Towards the foot of the hill is Double Cave, fomething like that of Weathercoat. In a pafture, called the Sleights J near the turnpike road, are two large heaps of fmall round ftones, a quarter of a mile from each other, called by the country people, the Hurders ; the ftones in the neighbourhood are limeffone, but thefc are Tandy, gritty ftones they are thrown promifcuoufly together, without appearance of workmanfliip, and yet cannot be fuppofed the work of nature. One of thefe heaps is computed to contain 400 of this country cart loads ^ and there are other heaps of the ^ Cepit^Magn 1761. p. 127, « Tour to the Ca^cs, fame? [ 3^3 1 fame fort up and down the country."^ Near Chapel in Dale^ are Catknot-hole, and Green- Jide-cave ; the latter at -the bottom of a hill, called Wheinfide^ near the road from Winter- fcales to the dale of Dent. A little way from the village of Selj^de^ and two miles from Gearjionesj is a deep hole, called Alumn-pot . The high hill of Penegent is not far from the little town of Horton^ above which is a grotefque amphitheatre of rock, called Dowgill-fcar. A mile or two off, on the bafe of Penegent ^ are Hulpitj and Huntpit-holesy each having a ftream (or beck) running through it ; and what is moil extraordinary, thefe brooks crofs each other under ground, without mixing waters, the bed of one being on a flratum above the other ^ this was difcovered by the muddy water after a fheep-wafliing, going down one paffage, and the hulks of oats which were fent down the other. They emerge, one at Dowgill-fcar^ the other at Branjil^ head. Near Settle y is Gigglefwick-fcavy and the ebbing well j and from hence you may go to Malham. This v/ell, at Settle, ebbs and flows four or five times in an hour, to the heighth of near fix inches. It rifes at the bottom of a prodigious ledge of rocksj ^ Gent, Mag, 1761, p. 128. runs [ 3^4 1 runs with a plentiful ftrearn ; is inclofed in a quadrangle of ftone flags, of about two feet fquare ; and had formerly proper out- lets for the current, to enable the fpeitatof to diftinguifh the degrees of its rife and fall with more exadnefs \ On the tops of the hills hereabouts, fires are lighted on (I think) the firft day of ^u- giijl, the remains of a cuftom, the origin of which is now unknown. We, however, for want of this informa- tion, returned to Ayfgarth^ and went through Biffoops-dale to KettlewelL This dale is a narrov/ valley between two lofty hills> with ftill lefs of the chearing influence of the fun, than Wenjley^dale can. ,boafl; ; fo little, indeed, that they do not attempt to raife corn ; but their inclofures are fine pafture, and they breed many cattle. In it are two hamlets, called Thoroby and New- biggeii^ both in Ayfgarth parifh, though at a good diftance from the church. Mr. Maude mentions a fall of water, in a deep wood, at Heaning^ (a houfe belonging to Mifs Harrifon) in this dale, about tw^o miles from Ayfgarth church, and in the road ; this we fearched for to no purpofe, nor could we get any information from the coun-« ^ Gc?it:fMag. 1760. p. 315. try t 305 ] try people. There is a fmall ftream run-^ ning down a deep woody glen, but it is fo overgrown, that it is not poffible to follow the water ; and the precife fituation not be- ing dafcribed, it may be eafily milTed* That gentleman flightly mentions ano- ther fall in BiJIdOp's-dakj called Fofs Gill, which deferves more particular notice^ Near the upper end of the dale, after crofl- ing a fmall brook, with a farm-houfe on the right, a fine llieet of clear water is feen pouring down the right hand hill over a rock, between a few hanging trees ; looking farther up, other falls are feen above it, and on examination, it is found to come from the top of the hill, which is near a mile high, in feveral breaks : that firft feen, is about 30 yards y and one above it, 40. To fee this in the bell: way, leave the horfes at the farm-houfe, which is juft pafled, and walk acrofs the meadows to the foot of the fall, and from thence climb to the upper ones. It will well repay the pains. At the end of Bijhop's-dale^ come out on a wild dreary moor, and afcend a very long, fteep hill, on the top of which are fome black and difmal peat mores ; the dcfcent is as fleep into Wharf-dale^ at a village called Buckden. A road from this placeio AJkriggj X acrofs [ 2o6 ] acrofs the moors, is begun, which will be touch nearer, but will not make amends to the traveller who feeks amufement, for the lofs of the ride by Ayfgarth and BiJJoop's-^ dale. Wharf-dale^ is fo called from the river Wharfe^ which rifes in the mountains above, and is here only a fmall ftream, but widens as it proceeds ; and, after a courfe of 50 miles, falls into the Ouje, near Tadcajier. Kettlewell is a little town in this dale, leading into the wild mountainous part of Torkjlnre called Craven^ and has fome fmall inns. Walter Grevy Archbiibop of Tork^ (temp, yohn) was owner of a moiety of the manor, and from him, it defcended to the Lords Grey^ of lR.otherfield^ . In ^ Men. 4. it was part of the eftate of Ralph JS'evillj^ Earl of JVejl?nor elands who had a graiiit of free warren in his lordlnip of Ket- tjcwell^ with liberty to impark 300 acres of land there 5 and foon after, he had a grant of free chafe in all his demefne lands at this place'''. In 1686, the inhabitants of this place and Starbottom^ a village in the road to it, were almofi: drowned by a fudden and violent Hood. The rain poured down from the hill, with fuch violence, for an hour and y Dugd, Bar, w i. p. 723, ^ Ibid. v. I. p. 298. half-^ i 307 ] half, (the hill on the fide opening and caft-' ing up water into the air, to a great heighth) that it demolifhed feveral houfes, and en- tirely carried away the Hones with which they were built, filling up the meadows with them and graved* From hence, the road to Malham (pro- nounced Mauf7i) has the river on the left^ and a high range of rocky hill on the right. At about three miles, is a very lofty crag, hanging, as it were, over the road ; it is called Kilfoe-cragy (fpelt Kibifay) from the village of that name jufi: beyond. At this village, in order to have the ride over the hills, and to go direftly to a large piece of water, called Malham-tarn, leave the road, turning out of it in the village on the right ; after pafling through two gates, come to an inclofed pafture, w^here an old direc- tion-poft has lofi: its infcription, and going in at the gate, leave the more beaten track, and crofs the field, tov/ards the fteep fide of a hill, on the right, where a piece of gra- velly road goes ftrait up, and is very vifible at fome diftance. Purfuing this, and a track which, though little ufed, is eafily to be diftinguiflied, and runs in nearly a ftraight « Mag. Brit. X 2 lin worthy noblemen as any in the king- dom ; yet it was my misfortune to have croffes and contradidions with them both. Nor did there want malicious ill-willers to blow and foment tjie coak of [ 3^9 ] , of diffention between us, fo as in both their life-times the marble pillars of Knowle in Kenty and WiitQn 'm Wilt- fiire, vv^ere to me but the gay arbours of anguifh, infomuch as a wife man, wbo knew the infide of my fortune, would often fay, that I lived in both thefe my lords great families, as the river of Roariy or Rodanusy runs thro' the lake of Ge- ^' neva without mingling any part of its ftreams^with that of the lake/ But fhe was |eleafed from her fecond marriage by the"" death of her hulband in 1650, after which the greatnefs of her mind broke out in full and uninterrupted luftre. She rebuilt, or repaired, fix of her ancient cafties ; fhe reflored fevea churches or chapels ; founded one hof- pital, and repaired another. She lived in vaft hofpitality at all her cafiles by turns, on the beautiful motive of dif- penfing her charity in rotation, among the poor of her vaft eftates. She tra^ veiled in a horfe-litter, and often took new and bad roads from caftle to caftle^ in order to find out caufe of laying out money among the indigent, by employ- ing them in the repairs. The opulent alfo felt the efFe6t of her generofity, for fhe t 320 ] " file nevey fufFered any vifitors to go a\vay without a prefent, ingenioufly contrived according to their quality. She often fate in perfon as flieriffefs of the county of Wejimor eland ; at length died at the age of 86^ in 1676, and was interred at Appleby. Her great poffeffions de- volved to yohn Earl of Thanety who married Margaret^ her eldeft daughter by the Earl of Dorfet. Here are four heads of this illuftrious countefs, in the ftates of childhood^ youth, middle and old age/' Mr. Pennant fays that the picture fhewn as that of Fair Rofamond^ is fiditious. Lord Thanet is availing himfelf of a rock of limeilonc at the back of the caftle, but at the expence of the trees there. A cut is made from it to the navigable canal, which runs clofe by the town, and the ftone is put into boats at once. On the fteeple of the church is an in- fcription, fignifying that it was repaired by Lady Cliffordy Countefs of Fembrokey in 1655, after it had been ruined in the civil wars. In the church are infcriptions on plain ftones, in memory of the three firft Earls of Cumberland, Near [ 321 ] Near this place are fome fulphur-vv^clls I bne called Eroughton-Spaw^ in the road be- ' tween Skipton and Coin ^ another about a lr>ile Oit, called Crickle-Spaw , and tv/o at Skipton, called the Old and New Wells\ From Skipton afcend a long, fteep hill, called Romaldjinoory at the defcent of which again meet with The J^Fharfe, now conli- derably enlarged, which runs near the road the reft of the ivay to Otley. On the op- pofite fide is a very handfome houfe of Sir James Ibbetfon, not quite finiihed. ' Pafs alfo an old feat of the ancient family of Favafor. At Otley is a bridge of five arches over the river, fo narrow, that tvv^o carriages cannot pafs, bat it is widening. From it is feen a new built feat of Mr. Fawkes^ called Farnley'hall^ at no great diftance. At the end 6f the town, going to Leeds ^ is a hill called The Chevin^ (which is a Britijh word, lignifying the ridge of a mountain) as fteep and long as that from Skipton^ but prefenting a very diiferent vievv ^ that looks down on a meagre valley^ this affords one of the moft beautiful prof- peils that is any where to be feen, or that imagination can form an idea of. The ^ Short, p. 300, 301. y hill [ 322 3 hill itfelf is heathy and bare, rifing on the right hand high over the road, and is rough with rude mafles of ftone, but be- low is a wdde and rich vale, extending many miles, the river Wharfe meandring thro' it, and fhewing itfelf in a broad flream in various and long reaches. The town of Otley^ Sir "James IbbetfonSy Sir VavaforSy Mr. Fawkes'sy and other feats, are difperfed in it ; the hedge-rows are ornamented with trees, the inclofures are corn-fields, or verdant meadows. The dark mountains about Skipton are feen be- hind ; oppofite, and towards the right, the hills about Knarejborough and Harrow- gate fhew their tops. An exceeding fine day enlivened the fcene, and it was with relu^ftance that I took my leave of it. The approach to Leedsy on this, as on the other fide, is marked with the villa's of the opulent inhabitants. A few miles from Leeds is Temple New^ fomey the feat of Lord Irwt?2y whofe an- ceftor, Sir Arthur Ingram, purchafed it about the end of the reign of Hen. 8. of MattheWy Earl of Lenox, father of the unhappy Lord Darnley, who was born here. Sir Arthur built the prefent houfe, in which [ 3^3 ] which there is a capital colledlion of pic- tures. About fix miles from Pomfret is Medley^ the feat of Sir yohn Savily Earl of Mexbo-^ rough (an Irifh title) faid to be fitted up in fo rich and elegant a manner> as to be well worth feeing. Faffing thro' Barnjley again, turn ojff on the left to fee the Marquis of Rockingham s feat, called Weniworth ^Cajile. It may not be amifs to mention that there is no inn at the place, fcarce an ale-houfe, but as it lies between BarJiejley and Rotherha?n, the traveller^ who is apprized of it, will not find himfelf under any difficulty. The houfe has a magnificent and extenfivd front, 6bo feet long, but it was placed by the marquis's father in a moil unfortunate fituation, looking diredtly on a large hill> rifing immediately before it, which ob- ftrudts the view of the water, and the mofi: beautiful ground in the park» Much money has been expended in removing part of this hill, but with little effedtji and to remove the whole would coft half as much as to rebuild the houfe. Thd ftables are alfo diredly before the windows^ but thefe will be pulled down, as the mar- quis has built a fine court of new ones, for Y 2 84 horfes. [ 3^4 ] 84 horfes, at a little diftance. The portico of the houfe is particularly elegant. The hall is a very noble one, 60 feet fquare, 40 high, with a gallery 10 feet wide running round the whole. This is fupported by 18 Ionic pillars, which are incrufting with a pafte, called ScioH, ex- adly refembling marble. Above the gal- lery are iB pilallers of the Corinthian or- der. There is a fuite of rooms to the right of the hall, and another to the left^ the latter not finiflied. The gallery at the end of the houfe, is 130 feet by 18, and there are a great number of other apartments, but few pictures. In one of the bed rooms is a curious cabinet of ivory, tortoifefhell, and ebony. The library has many books, but not in order, and there is a colledion of medals, re- puted a capital one. In the anti-room of the marquis's bed-chamber in the attic llory, is the famous pidture by Vandyke^ of the Earl of Strafford and his fecretary. About a mile from the houfe is a planta- tion of fix acres, laid out in walks, in which is a houfe for occalional entertain- ment. From hence an avenue leads to an amphitheatre, below which are ruins to re- prefent an ancient religious houfe. In [ 325 1 In the park^ there are many fine points, of view but thefe things are trifles when compared with the advantage which the public, as well as individuals, derive from his noble and fpirited improvements in hulbandry. He was at great expence, and took infinite pains to remove long fub- fifting errors and prejudices (no where more deeply rooted than in the bofoms of far- mers, and no where more prevalent than in this county) but had the fatisfacflion of feeing his endeavors crowned with fuc- cefs. His draining of wet lands, his cul- tivation of turnips, and introduction of . the hoe, without which they were of little or no fervice ; the new inftruments which he brought into ufe, and the improve- ment of the old ones, will bring him the moft lafting honor. He fet the example on land which he took into his own hands; and he had one farm managed in the Kentifid huftandry, another in the Hert- ford/hire, by men whom he brought from thence, in order to form the better opinion on the merits of each, carried on under his immediate infpedion. s An obelific was ere6led in 1780 in memory of the trial ^nd acquittal of Admiral KepfelL y % Proceed [ 326 J Proceed to Rotheram, famous for its iron works fo long ago as Leland's time , they were once gone to decay, but now flourish as much as ever. Mr. Walker has a ma- nufactory here, in which every procefs is gone through, from the rough iron ftone, to the polifhing the inftruments. The iron ore, and the coal with which it is worked, are both dug near the town. They have alfo a pottery, and burn lime, fo that there is plenty of employment for the inhabitants. In this town a college was founded by Thomas Rotheram, Archbifhop of Tork (who probably took his name from hence) in the time of Ed%v. 4. for the pur- pofe of teaching finging. Near this town are the fine ruins of Rocb Abbey. ^ From Rotheram ride by Ki^ueton. an old houfe of the Duke of Leeds, which being little inhabited does not make a. chearful appearance. The hall is 50 feet by 3O;, painted by Sir James Tho7^nhilL There ig a drawing-room 24 feet fquare, a dining- room 36 by 25, another drawing-rooii) 25 feet fquare^ a faloon 54 by 34, a veftibule 23 feet fquare, and another drawing-room 33 31- Here are many pictures; a« mongft the portraits, there are in the antir rQorn^ [ 3^7 1 room, the Earl of Worcejler by Holbein^ the Marquis of Montrofe by Vandyke^ the king and queen of Bohemia, and Lord C^- cil. In the fecond drawing-roorn are the Earls of Strafford and Derby, by Vandyke Erafmus and Sir Tho?nas More, by Holbein. In one of the dreffing-rooms is Philip 2. of Spain, by Titian. In one of the bed- chambers Charles I. on horfeback, by F"^;^- //k^^; and in another the Duke of Florence and MachiaveL In the laft drawing-room is Alderman Hewett (lord mayor of London in the time of Queen Elizabeth, whofe daughter and heir married Sir Edward Of-- borne, anceftor of the duke) the Earl of Strafford and his fecrctary, and the Earl of Arundell, by Vandyke. This faTiiily was enobled in the perfon of Sir Thomas OJhorne, created by Charles 2. Baron of Kiveton, and Earl of Danby. He was an adive minifter of that king, very unacceptable to the commons, who being difappointed in their firft impeach- ment, purfued him with a bill of attainder, on which he furrendered himfelf, and lay five years in the Tower before he could obtain his liberty, tho' he was never brought to trial. He took a confiderable part in the revolution, and was by King Y 4 William [ 328 ] Wifliam created Marquis of Carmartherh, and Duke of Leeds. Ride thro' Kiveton-park.^ and by Mr. Jlewetfs at Shire-oaks^ to W^orkfopj tp which priory Shire-oaks was forrnerly a grange. Froni hence to Mansfield the ride is through JVorkJbp and Wellbeck parks, the feat? of the Dukes of Norfolk and Portland.^ which are feparated only by a fmali com- mon, Workfop manor is about half a mile from the town, and was anciently the eftate of the Lovetofts^ or LtivetotSy a great fiamily^ who in 3 Ilenry i. founded a priory here for canons regular of the or-- der of St. Atigtijiin. In the reign of H. 2. it pafled by a daughter and heir to the Fur- fiivals^, from whom it defcended in like planner 6 R. 2. to Thomas de NevillK He left two daughters and coheirs, one of whom married the great Johfi Talbot^ Earl of Shrewfoury (as mentioned at Sheffield^ ^nd carried Workfop into that family, 'Prancis^ Earl of Shrewfbiiry^ had the priory given him on the dilfolution, in exchange for other lands The manfion- Diigd, Bar. V. I. p. 569, Ibid. p. 533. ^ Ibid. p. 3CI, 727c houfe [ 3^9 ] houfe was rebuilt with great magnificence by George Earl of Shrewjbury. Gilbert^ his fon and fuccellor, died in 1616, leav- ing three daughters and coheirs, of whom Alethea married Thomas Earl of Arundell, (anceftor of the prefent duke of Norfolk) and brought him thiS;, and the Sbejteld eftate. Thi5 nobleman was: grandfon of the Duke of Norfolk who loft his life by the jea~ loufy of Elizabethy rather than by any crime of his ow^n, and by means of that attainder had only the title of Arundelly which belonged to hirn in right of his grandmother the coheirefs of the Fitz-- Alans. He made that noble colledion of antique ftatues and marbles, a part of which is now one great ornament of the univerfity of Oxford^ being prefented to it by his grandfon Henry. They were ori- ginally placed in Arundell-Houfe in the Strand j and when that houfe was pulled down, fome of them were left there, and were much damaged by the careleiTnefs of the workmen ^ a great part of thefe were purchafed in that condition by Sir V/illiam Fermer, and fent to his feat at Eajlon Nejtoii in NorthamptonJJjire, where they continued till 17553 when the Countefs of Fomfret prefented f 330 ] prefented them to the univerfity. Some of* the broken fragments were begged by one Cupery an old fervant of the fa- mily, and carried by him acrofs the wa- ter to the place called from him Cupers Gardens y where they continued a conli- derable time ; but being accidentally feen by Mr. Freemariy of Fawley Court, near Henley on Thames, and Mr, Waller^ of Bea^ consjieldy were purchafed by thofe gentle- men and carried to their feats. Others of thefe remains were buried in the founda- tions of the houfes at the bottom of Nor- folk-Jlreety and in the gardens of Arundell Houfe^y one of the ftatues was found in a cellar by Mr. Ai/labie, and carried to his feat in Torkjhire. Others were carried by the Duke of Norfolk to a piece of ground acrofs the water which he got for that purpofe ; but being there negleded, they were at length covered with rubbifh brought to raife the ground. About 17 12, in digging foundations for fome buildings intended to be ered:ed on the fpot, fome parts were dug up, and laid on the ground, where the Earl of Burlington heard of, and begged them. He carried them to Chif- y)icky and one piece of bas-relief he placed in the pedeftal of obelifk, which he erected [ 331 ] eredled there. Some years after this. Lord Petre defired to make farther fearch after what were fo buried, and found fix ftatues without heads or arms, fome of a cololTal fize, the drapery of which was thought to be very fine ; thefe were fent to Work/op. Befides thefe marbles, the earl had a curious collection of cameo's and intaglio's, which the dutchefs, who was divorced, and afterwards married to Sir yobn Germain^ carried with her ^ Thefe were, I think, fold at Mr. Langford's a few years ago, on the death of Lady Betty Germain. Another part of the collection of curiofities was fold at Stafford houfe, near Buckingham Gate^ in 1720. The character which Lord Clarendon gives of this noble earl, as if, tho' willing to be thought a fcholar, he was in reality almoft illiterate, feems utterly improbable; and his lordfiiip gives a moffc ill-natured turn, to what may more properly be called an inftance of true magnanimity : on the ac- cefiion of C harks y the earl (who was a prc^ teftant) had fpoken very freely in the Houfe of Peers of the favorite Buckingham^ and was by the king fent to the Tower without a charge of any crime, and kept there till ^ Ho-ward' s anecdotes of the Howard family. § the [ 33^ 1 the houfe, refenting It as a breach of their privilege, and refufing to proceed on any bufinefs till he was difcharged, compelled the king to releafe him, which he at laft did, v/ithout giving even a hint of that moft jufl; caufe" for which he pretended to detain him. Lord Clarendon in giving hi§ charadter, amongft other things fays, that he lived towards all favorites ^^nd *^ great oflicers, v/ithoat any kind of con-' defcenfiony and rather fuffered himfelf to be ill-treated by their power and autho- rity, (for he was often in difgrace, and once or twice prifoner in the Tower) than to defcend in making application to them/' But he might with much more propriety have imputed this to the high fpirit of a virtuoqs nobleman deriving eiignity from the moft illuftrious defcent^ end juftly defpifing the SomerfetSy Buck- in^harns, and other uoftart minions of the time ; and as to his irnprifonment, his lordfhip might have faid, that confcious of his integrity, and of the flagrant viola- tion in his perfon of the rights of the peers and of the law, he fcorned to make any unbecoming fubmiffion to obtain that freedom of which he had been fo arbitra- rily deprived. A few [ 333 ] A fev/ years ago the old manfion-houfe wa3 entirely burnt down, with all the furniture and pidlures. The late duke began a new one on a plan which would have made it the mod magnificent palace in E?2gland, if compleated. The prefent building, which is only one fide of an intended quadrangle, is not unworthy the rcfidence of the firft peer in the kingdom. The front is of white flone, extending more than 300 feet in length, and is elegant and grand. In the centre is a portico, with fix Corinthian pillars fupporting a pediment, on the points of which are three flatues, and in the centre of it an emblematical carving, referring to the great alliances of the family. A ba- luftrade, adorned with urns, runs along the top of the houfe. This is to the north, and was defigned for the back front; in it are, ten rooms below, and twelve above, with twenty-fix in the attic flory. In the fouth fide are two galleries, one ufed for breakfafling, the other for a billiard-room. The grand drawing-room is 53 feet by 30, and is hung with Gobelin tapefiry, re- prefenting great variety of men, plants and animals of the different quarters of the globe, well drawn, and of the moft lively and beautiful colors. The dining-room is 2 forty- [ 334 ] forty-two by twenty-eight. The flair- cafe is large and handfome, the iron rails light, and the painting in frefco on the pannels is ftriking the figures are fo re- lieved, that they perfedly fland out from the walh It is the performance of one Bruyn^ a Fleming. The pidlures which are here, were brought from other feats ; there is no ca- talogue of them. The following are the chief. The Earl of Arundel, and Lady Alethea I'albofy his wife, fitting, and looking at a globe. From this pidlure a print has been engraved. A whole length of this earl, fitting, pointing to his flatues. A whole length of the Earl of Surry^ 1546, set. 29, in an embroidered waiftcoat and fhort breeches, a cloak on, a collar of the order of the garter, a garter on his leg, a fliort fword with a gold hilt, a glove in his hand. A half length of him in another room. A good portrait of Charles i . Cain and Abel. A duke, with his flaff as lord high trea-« furer, and another flaff as earl marfliaL Another in a robe faced with ermine. A whole [ 335 I A whole length of the Earl of Notting-' ham^ who commanded againft the Spanijh Annada^ in a long gown reaching to his heels. The late duke's father, who was loft at fea, a young man. The late duke, by Reynolds y the color (as ufual) gone. Cardinal Howard^ and feveral other fa- mily portraits. Near the houfe is a flower-garden, in which is a large green-houfe, well filled with exotics. The bowling-green is a very fpa- cious one, furrounded by moft beautiful lofty firs, feathered to the very ground. At a fmall diftance is the pleafure-ground, and an extenfive menagery, in which the late dutchefs had a numerous colledion of birds. In the fruit-garden are variety of hot- houfes and hot-walls, all new built by the late duke. The park is about eight miles round, with a noble boundary of wood. The Priory of Work/op was founded by William de Luvetoty with the confent of Emme his wife, in 3 Hen. i. for canons regular of the order of St. Augujiine He, ^ Dugd. Mon. V. 2. p. 2;, 50. with t 53^^ J with his fan and grandlbn, the lall: male of the Furnivalsy "Joane wife of "Thomas Ne^ vilky her hufband and daughter^ and ^Johni grandfon of the firft Earl of Shrewjhiiryy are fome of the illiiftrious perfons who have been buried in this church On the dif- folution, it was valued at 30*2/. 6j^, \od. or 239/. 10 s. ^d. clear and was granted in 33 He?i. 8. to Francis y Earl of Shrewf" bury (defcended from the founder). The weft end of the Priory church is now ufed as the parifli church, ftanding at a fmall diftance from the town, on the eaft fide of it. It confifts of a nave and two fide ailes, the pillars, which are alternately round and octangular, fupporting circular arches^ ornamented with quaterfoils j there are tw^o rows of windows above them^ placed alter- nately, one over the arch, the other over the pillar. At the eaft end of the fouth aiic, is a tomb defaced, and three large ftatues in a recumbent pofture, two of them men, one a woman, brought from fome other place, now lying on the ground. There a very antique wooden cover to the font. The weft door has a circular arch, and on each fide is a lofty fteeple. Some broken walls remain at the eaft end of the churchy ^ Thonton i 'Nott, ^ Camd, v. I. p. 439. but [ 337 ] but not in a ftraight line with it. On the north fide, a few fragments of walls have been converted into fmall houfes, fome of them joining to the church. In the mea- dows below, many foundations were difco- vered on re-building the mill, about the year 1774. The gate-houfe remains 5 a room over it is made ufe of for a fchooL Next the ftreet, on each fide the gateway is a niche, the ftatues gone; on each fide of the window above, is a large ftatue in a niche, and one over it. In 1547, the impropriation of this place (amongft others) was given to the fee of Lincolriy in exchange for many manors con- veyed by Bifhop Holbech^, The navigation from Chejierfield to the Trenty goes by the bottom of the town, and has reduced the price of coals from yd. or 8^. to 4^. I, per hundred. On the wefl fide of the town is a circular hill, inclofed with a trench, except on one fide, where there is a deep bank going down to a branch of the little river. This was the fite of the cafl:le, which was clene down" in Leiand's time^ A vifit to Wellbeck Abbey and Bolfover Cajile^ may be conveniently made from / P Willises Cath, v. 3. p. 37. S Itin. V. I. p, 84, Z hence, [ 33^ ] hence, and will employ a day ; after which^ you may go from Workfopy thro' Clumber Park, l^horefhy Fark, and by Rufford, to Nottingham j or may go by Wellbeck to Ma72sfield, and from thence by Newjieady (once the beautiful feat of Lord Byron, but now defolated by him') and by the late Sir Charles Sedleys, to Nottingham. The ride to Wellbeck is thro' the Duke of Norfolk's park, and part of the plantations made by the late dutchefs : A fmall com- mon only parts it from the Duke of Portland' s. This houfe was founded by Thomas le Flemman, in the reign of Hen. IT. for canons of the prcemo7iJiratenJian order \ that is, the order of St. Avjiin as reformed. The ab- bot had the fuperiority of all the houfes of this order in England\ It Vv^as valued at the diffolution, at 298/. 4^. ?>d. or 249/. 6s. '^d. ^ Nea.vJ} e ad Vriory was built by He?!, 2. for canons of the order of St, Augujlin, and has been the feat of the Byro'is ever fmce the diffolution, when it was given to Sir Jehu i?>Tc>;^, being valued at 219 /. 18/. 8 /r/. or 167/. i6s, iid, clear. The weft front of the church is flandrng, with four turrets, and adjoins to the houfe. The park was once finely wooded, but the prefent owner, in fpite .to his fon, has cut down all the oaks. There is a good piece of water, with a cafcadc ; but, Gripped of its furrounding groves, it^- beauty is gone. Dugd, Men, V. 2. 598. ^ Buni^s EccL Lanv, v. 2. p. 53, clear. 3 [ 339 ] clear". It was granted, on the dliTolatlonj to Richard W h alley \ but became after- wards the eftate of Sir Charles Cavendijhy youngeft fon of Sir TVilliam by the Coun- tefs of Shrewjbury ; he married one of the daughters, and, at length, fole heir of Lord Ogle 'y which barony defcended to their fon Willianij who was alfo honoured with the titles of Baron CavendijJo of Bolfo'very Vif- count Mansfieldy Earl, Marquifs, and at laft, Duke of Newcajlle. He was author of the treatife on horfemanfhip, and built the riding houfe here, fince converted into a fl:able, now reftored to its original ufe. This gentleman took a moft active part in favour of Charles I. and, perhaps, fufFered more in his fortune by that means, than any one befides, his loil'es being computed at 941,303/. This was the only one of his parks that was not ruined in the civil war> and was faved by the good management of the gallant Sir Charles Cavendifldy the duke's younger brother''. His grandfon dying without iflue, his grand-daughter Marga- ret, married to jfohn Hollisy afterwards created Duke of Newcajlle yh^c^imt heir to this eftate : flie left only one child, a daugh- " Deering*5 Nott. p. 299, ^ Thoroto?i^s Nctt. p. 450. ^ Collinses Hijiorical Colle^io7is , p. 43. Z 2 ter. [ 34^ ] ter, who married Edward afterwards Earl of Oxfordy whofe daughter and heir, mar- ried William Duke of Portland^ father of the prefent duke. Nothing of the abbey, remains in the prefent houfe, except fome arches in the cellar. The hall is fitted up with Gothic arches of plaifter or wood- work on the walls, above which are painted in compartments, a number of manege horfes in various atti- tudes. From the hall you are fliewn a fuite of five bed-rooms, in one of which is a whole length of Charles II. when very young, in armour. The dining-room is 59 feet by 36, the cieling coved : in this room are the pidlures of Sir Hugh Middle t on y the gentleman who ruined himfelf, and benefited the city of London fo much, by bringing the new river to IJlington, to fupply it with water. He has fhort grey hair, a ruff, turn-up lace ruffles. An original of Thomas Earl of Strafford^ by Vandyke y a whole length. Col. Digby^ his lady, and two childreuv William Cavendijh' firft Duke of Newcaf- tky the faithful and adive friend of Charles I. Ke is drefied in black, flafhed fleeves, a large fall-down lace ruff, a gold hiked fword,. .3 ^ [ 34^ ] fword, the garter on his leg, black rofes in his flioes. Matthew Prior. In the anti-room is a pidure of Arch- bifhop LiUudy in lawn fleeves, his hair (hort. The drawing-room has fome French looking- glafles of great fize. The breakfaft-room feems to have under- gone no alteration fince the houfe was built, but the principal rooms have been fitted up by the prefent duke, who has alfo made much alteration in the park. In one part of his defigns he has been unlucky; he made an exteniive lake, and threw over it a magnificent bridge of three arches, the cen- ter arch being a fpan of ninety feet, the two fide ones feventy-five each, but it fell down almoft as foon as compleated, and has not been re-built. The park is about eight miles round. In it are many noble old oaks, and the vene- rable one, called Greendale Oak, (of which feveral prints have been publifhed) with a road cut through it, is ftill to be feen with one green branch. The flumps of thofe branches which have been cut, or broken oiF, are guarded with leaden plates to pre- vent the wet from getting in, and occafion- Z 3 ing [ 342 ] ing further decay. In another part of the park, (nearer the gate which goes in from Work/op) is a remarkable tree, called The Seven SiJierSy from its confifting of feven Hems fpringing up from one root ^ one of thefe, however, is now broken off. About three miles from hence is a place called Crefwell'Crag^ a place where the rocks have been rent afunder in fome violent convulfion, which would appear ftriking before thofe at Matlock, Middleton-dale, &c. have been feen, but which exhibits only a miniature picture of thofe more magnificent fcenes. On afking the way to it, one of the duke's attendants took a horfe, and rode with us to it, by a road (rocky and bad) which we fhould hardly have found with- out a guide. This was fuch a piece of ci- vility, as cannot be mentioned without par- ticular pleafure, nor fliould it be forgot that he refufed to accept any gratuity. Three miles further, thro' the village of Weji Elmdan, and by a very rough and ftony road, came to the little town or village of Bolfover^ at the end of which, is a caflle bearing the fame name, feated on the brink of a hill, overlooking a great extent of coun- try. This caftle was feized on by the ba- roris who rebelled againft King John, and [ 343 ] was taken from thein by Willlani Ferrers Earl of Derby ^ in the i6th of jjlat king; and he being appointed governor, ^held it for fix years ; and in 19 Hen. 3. again had the cuftody of it^: but Bryan de rifle, a fteady adherent of Henry had been appointed governor of it twice in the mean u^hile^. On the death of the lafl Earl of Chejler, without male iiiue, Ada, wife of Henry de HaJiingSy one of his fillers, had this manor as part of her allotrpent \ Leland, fpeaks of the caftle as being in ruins, in his time. The prefent building is nothing more than a houfe, as ill-contrived and inconvenient as ever was formed. By the arms. carved in fione over the door, v/hich are thofe of Ca- vendi/hj with a crefcent for difference, em- paling Ogle ; it is to be fuppofed that it was built by Sir Charles Cavendljh, mentioned at V/ellbeck, and defccnded, with that eftate, to the Duke of Portland, the prefent . owner : the outer court, in Vv^hich are ftables and ofiices, is large, and walled in \ within that is a fmaller, alfo walled in and paved, in which ftands the houfe, built of brown ftone, fquare, and lofty. A flight of fteps leads thro' a paflage, to a hall, not large, the y Dugd. Bar. V. I. p. 261. ^ Ibid. v. i. p. 737. « Dugd, Bar, p. 45. Z 4 roof [ 344 1 roof fupported by ftone pillars, and from thence into the only room defigned for ha- bitation on this floor ; in the centre of it,, is a pillar fupporting an arched roof, in the manner of that at Chrifi Church in Oxford^ but much lefs light. Round this pillar is a plain circular table, ufed to dine on. Up flairs is one room moderately large, and within it a very fmall one, which, from an old tea-table, and a fet of old china ftanding on it, feems to have been ufed as a drawing-, room. In the large room are feveral coats of arms painted y Qavendijh empaling Ogle^ and in different places the latter is painted alone. The refl of the rooms are very fmall, and not numerous. The floors of all are plaifter. From the windows in ge^ neral, the profpeds of the country are rich and extenfive, reaching ftill farther from the leads on the top of the houfe. Be- neath, at a fmall diftance, lies Sutton^ with its park, the feat of the late Mr. Clarke-^ farther off the lofty towers of Hard%vick are feen amongft the woods. What was wanting in thefe rooms feems to have been fupplied by a range of build- ing vv'hich is now ruined^ ftanding on a noble terrace commanding a magnificent profpedt in its full extent y the fide walls ^nd [ 345 ] and the floor of the apartments, which were entered from the terrace by a grand flight of fl:eps, are all that remain, the roof having been taken oflf long ago. It is faid thefe rooms were fitted up for the reception of Charles 1. who, having vifited the Earl of JSfewcaJile (as he was then called) at Welbeck^ in hisprogrefs into Ecotlandiw 1633, was fo well pleafed with the magnificent enter-- tainment he met with, that a year or two afterwards he made him a fecond vifit with his queen ; on this occafion he gave up Bolefover for their majefl:ies lodging, and fpared neither induftry nor cofl: to add fplendor to the entertainment, which coft him above 14,000/. Ben John/on was em- ployed in fitting fuch fcenes and fpeeches '^as were proper on the occafion, and all the gentry in the country were fent for to wait on their majefl:ies. This place was feized by the parliament after the duke went abroad, and was fold and begun to be pulled down, but was then bought by Sir CbarleSy the duke's younger brother, and lb reftored to the family ^ In the church is a noble monument in memory of the firft Sir Charles Cavendlfiy fet up by his widow (the daughter of Lord ^ Colli Collections i p. 2^, 24, 26. Ogle) [ 346 ] Ogle) and his two furviving fons. On the fouth lide of the church is an additional building as a burial-place for the family, on the battlement of which is cut in ca- pital letters the motto of the family, CA- VENDO TUTUS. On one fide are the Cavendijh arms, on the other, thofe of Ogle. Others of the family are buried in it. This church was given by JVilliam Fencers, Earl of Derby y in 36 iif. 3. to the canons of Derby (near Derby) ^ Return to JVorkfopj and take the road to Clumber "parky the feat of the Duke of Newcajile ; it is a creation of hi^ own, be- gun little more than twenty years ago, be- ing originally a rabbit-warren. It is now a park of near thirteen miles round, filled with many and large thriving plantations, and having a very good houfe, rnoft elegantly fitted up and furniflied. The front is of white ftone, brought from a quarry on his grace's eftate about five miles ofiT. The of- fices are in a very fpacious court on the left of the houfe. In the common drawing-room is a large and very fine picture by TenierSy fome moft beautiful female heads in crayons by Hoare, and a piece of game by Rubens. ^ Dugd, Bar, v. i. p. 262. In [ 347 ] In the great drawing-room is a moft ca- pital pidure of Rembrandt by himfelf; a lion and boar by Rubens ; and other good pictures. In the common dining-room are two fine heads by Rubens-, the Kit-cat Club, and the Prodigal Son, by Domenichino. The library is a large, fine room, fur- nifhed with a great number of books in fplendid bindings. From a fmall anti- room belonging to it you go into the dref- fing-room to the ftate-room, in which is a portrait of the late Mr, Henry Pelham, in his gown, as Chancellor of Exchequer y the late Lord Lincoln (his grace's eldeft fon) a whole-length Hoare the late duke's father and mother; the prefent duke's fa- ther and mother ; the late and prefent duke. The ftate bed -room was not com- pleted. In the breakfaft-room is a portrait of the firft Earl of Lincoln. The great dining-room is a noble one, looking to the water and the bridge; in it ^re four large and moft capital pieces of game by Snyder Sj with figures by Rubens, who in one of them has introduced himfelf and [ 348 ] and two of his wives. Over the chimney is a piece of game, by Wenix^. Crofs the bridge, and through another part of the park to T^horefby^ the late Duke of Kingjionsy which is very near to it. This is rather a comfortable houfe than a magnificent feat. The entrance is in the bafement ftory into a hall, ad- joining to which are a breakfafl-room, a dining-room, and drawing-room. A pair of ftone flairs leads out of the hall to the next ftory; at the top of the firft flight they divide into two, and lead into a cir- cular room lighted by a large fky-light in the roof, and having u gallery which runs round it at the height of feet, in which are the doors of the bed-rooms. The fides of this room are of the fame compofition as is ufed in the hall at Lord Rockingham refembling yellow marble; on the fides are pillars and pilafters, moftly white, but fome refembling verd antique. The floor is of the fame compofition. Out of this room you go into a large drawing-room I do not recoiled whether the famous pidure of 5/^//^ munda, fold in Sir Luke Schaub^s fale for upwards of 400 /. is at this houfe. It, however, belongs to the duke, and is not lefs remarkable for its original merit;, than for Hogarth's at* tempt to rival it. hung [ 349 ] hung with pidures, prints and drawings, on the right is a fmall library ; on the left a very elegant drawing-room. The dutchefs made fome gardens with covered arbors, in the German tafle. There are fome pieces of water near the hdufe, on one of which is a large veflel for failing. We were told that the park is thirteen miles round. At Palethorpy adjoining to the park, is a good inn, and three miles farther * is the little town of Ollertoriy wdth a good inn in it. From Ollerton it is two miles to Rufford^ a large old feat of Sir George Savilky the approach to which is thro' avenues of large limes, beeches, &c. Here was an abbey of the Cijiercian order, founded by Gilbert^ Earl of Lincolriy in 114S. On the diflb- lution the houfe and lite, with about looa acres of land, three water-mills, and the fifhery, were granted to George, Earl of Shrewjbury. The clear value was then 246/. 15^-. 5^. Dugdales valuation is 176/. I2X. bd. Speed' Sy 254/. 6 J-, ^d. Sir George Saville married Mary, daughter of George Earl of Shrewjbury, grandfon of that earl to whom it was granted. King James and Charles the Firft ufed to come hither [ 35^ ] hither in order to hunt in the foreft of Sl)irewood\ From a large hall you go into a hand- fome dining-room, and on the faaie floor is a drawing-room, a billiard-room, and a bed-room. In the billiard-room is a pic- ture of Buckborfey the poor wretch who fome years ago was fo well known for his readinefs to engage in a boxing-match, in which he would often come off conqueror in the end, by fuffering his antagoniil: to beat him till he had exhaufted his ftrength, after which he would beat him in his turn. Up flairs is a gallery, 38 yards long and 12 broad, in which are many valuable por- traits. Lord and Lady Coventry. A portrait of a young man, with the following infcription round the frame ; Le feigneur H. D. pardit fon vie naturell en fervicedu Prince a Seintquenten avec- que honeur & Tamour du foldaux & du monde." There are fmaller letters by the fide of the head, of which I could only difcover fo much as that he was 20 and an half years old. ^ Thoroton'^s Nott, p. 433. Sir [ 351 1 Sir Geof^ge Savilky grandfather of the prefent. Earl of Halifax with his two wives, and firft wife's father. The earFs father, in a buff coat and iron breaft plate, with long lank hair, his wife and four daughters. Gilbert Earl of Shrewjhmjy a whole length, his face frefh-colored, fmall black whifkers ; he has on a black cloak over a grey habit, fhort trunk hofe, a blue ribband hanging round his neck down on his breaft, a George pendant thereon, a fhort filver- hilted fword. Dutchefs of Northzunberland. George, Earl of Shrewfouryy a whole length, his beard rather long and inclined to grey, a black cloak laced with gold, and faced with a broad white border, black cloaths, fhort trunk hofe, puckered ruffles, a ruff round his neck, a fhort gold-hilted fword, the garter on his left leg, a glove in his right hand. Sir Henry Sidney (a three-quarter piece) with black whifkers and beard, a flern look. Duke of Northumberland. Over this is Robert Earl of EJjex. Over the door King Edward the Sixth. In [ 352 ] In a fmall room is a fettee and fomc chairs worked by an aunt of Sir George from prints of the Harlots Progrefsy fome of them well copied. In the attic ftory are a very great number of bed-rooms. In one of them is a good portrait of a youth reading 3 in another a head of Jedediah Buxton. In another is a pidure of Anna Bullen on wood 5 but flie does not appear fo hand* fome here as Holbein has made her in one which is preferved at Lofely^ in Surrey. From Ollerton the ride is over the foreft to Nottingham y but beyond Rufford, Sir George Saville has made many large planta- tions of trees. Further on, a confiderabie trail has been inclofed, and is now under the plough, but the foil is a very poor fand, bearing however tolerable barley. Four miles before coming to Nottingham is the little village of Red-hilL Nottingham is a fair, well-built, populous town. Here was formerly a flrong caftle, in which the Danes, in the time of the Heptarchy, held out a fiege againft Buthred King of Mercia, Alfred and Ethelred his brother, kings of the JVeJI Saxons. Soon after the Conquell William either repaired this fortrefs, or built a new one on [ 353 3 cn the fame fpot, in the fecond year of his reign, probably to fecure a retreat on his expedition againil Edwyn Earl Cheftcr^ and Morcar Earl of Northii?nberlandy who had revolted. He committed the cuftody of it to William P ever ell y his natural fon, who has by fome been coniidered as the founder. It ftands on a fteep rock, at the foot of which runs the river Leen. It has been mentioned before, that Pe-^ verell had a grant of the Peke in Derbyjloire^ which is now included in the honor of Peverell; courts for that honor are held at Befsfordy two miles from Nottinghamy in which caufes as far as the value of 50 A are tried twice in the year before the de- puty of l^ovdi Middletoriy who is high ll:cv/« ard, and in whofe name writs are iffuedo At Befsf or d is the gaol; the keeper has a bowling-greeuj which is frequented by the gentlemen of Nottingbaniy and his prifoners are permitted to wait on them, fo that their confinement is not very rigorous. They are here intitled to their groats, as in the courts of WeJlminjler-halL Edward 4. greatly enlarged the caftle, but did not live to complete the buildings he begun, which were finifhed by Richard 3. A a It f 354 ] It went to decay in the times of Henry 7% and 8. Deering^ in his hiftory of Nottingham^ feems to explode very juftly the ftory of the place called Mortimer s Hole having been made as a hiding place for hioi;, and from his defcription of it iLews that it was meant as a private paffage to the caflle, to relieve it with men or provifions in a fiege. It is one continued ftair-cafe or defcent^ from the caftle to the foot of the hill;, without any room or even a place to fit down on, but with holes cut to let in light or fhoot arrows from, which now furnifli views of the town and country. It was formerly guarded by feven gates in it, placed at different diftances^ It was by this paffage that Edward 3, got into the eaftle and furprized Mortimer and the queen, and from his being carried away thro' it, \% has its name. It was granted by James i. to Francis Earl of Riitlandy who pulled down many of the buildings j but it was ftill of fo much firength, that Charles i. in 1642 pitched on it as the place for beginning his operations of war. He fet up his flandard firil: on the walls of the caftle, ^ Dec-ring's Nottingham y p. 17 1, I/j* 2 but C 355 ] ibut in two or three days remo^^ed it to d clofe on the north fide of the caftle Vv^ithout the wall^ on a round fpot, after which it was for many years called Standard Clofe ; and fince, from the name of one who rented it, Nevils Clofe. Where the ftand- ard was fixed^ there flood a poll for a con- fiderable time. It is a common error, that it was erected on a place called Derry Mounts a little farther north than the clofe juft mentioned; this is an artificial hili raifed on purpofe for a windmill, which formerly v/as there The caftle was af- terwards fequeftered by the parliament, and the trees in the park cut down. This caflle v/as fo ftrong that it was never taken by florm. After the civil v/ar^f Cromwell ordered it to be demoli&ed. On the reftoration, the Duke of Buckingham^ whofe mother was daughter and heir of this Francis Earl of Rutland^ had it re-- llored to him, and fold it to William Ca- "wendijh Duke of Newcafle. In 1674 he began the prefent building, but died in 16765^ when the work was not far advanced. However he had the building of it fo much at heart, that he left the revenue of a confiderable eiiate to be applied to S Deering^s hottingham, p« 177* A a :^ that [ 356 ] that purpofe, and it was finifhed by Henry his fon. The expence was about 14,000/. His flatue on horfeback in white marble, is in the centre of the front which looks towards the town ; it is carved out of a fingle block of ftone brought from Don-- nington in LeiceJierJJoirCy and was the work of one Wilfoiiy who married Lady Putfey^ a lady pofTeiTed of a confiderable jointure ^ file got him knighted, and during her life he was fpoiled for an artift, but not having made provilion againft her death, when flie died he was forced to return to his- former occupation ^. This Henry had one fon, who dying without ilTue, the eftate came to John Hol- ies fourth Earl of Clare^ who married one of his daughters, and was created by King William Duke of Newcajlle y he having no iffue male, fettled it on his nephew "Thomas Lord Pelham (fon of his youngeft lifter). This gentleman took a moft zealous and adivc part in favor of the prefent royal family, by whom he was held in the higheft efteem. He was created Duke of New- cafile upon Tyne by George I. and of New-- cajile under Line, with remainder to his nephew Henry Earl of Lincohiy by his ^ Decringy p. i86, 187. prefent [ 357 1 prefent majefly, who was fo lenfible of his fervices that when he was difmifled from his places he was offered a large penfion, but with a truly noble fpirit he refufed it , tho' inftead of amalTing wealth by means of his great employments, he had fpent a princely fortune in fupporting the intereft of the crown, and by living in fo fplendid a manner as to do honor to the places he held. He ah'b died without iflue, an'd fettled this eftate on his nephew Henry Earl of hirtcoluy now Duke of Newcajile^ the prefent owner. In the park, weft of the caftle, and facing the river Leen^- are fome remains of an ancient building (if it may be fo called) cut and framed in the rock. Dr. Stukeley gives it, as he does moft things, to the Britons. Many other ancient excavations have been found in other parts of the rocks. The frames for knitting ftockings were invented by one William Lea, of this county, about the beginning of the laft century; but he not raeeting with the encouragement he expefted (a cafe too common with the firft inventors of the moft ufeful arts) went with feveral of his workmen to France on the invitation of Henry 4. The death of A a 3 that [ 3S8 ] that king, and the troubles which enfued^ prevented attention being given to the work; Lea died there, and moft of his men returned to England. Other attempts were made to fl:eal the trade^ without bet- ter fuccefs'; and it has flouriflied here ever lince, and is novi^ carried on to a very great extent. At this town the Duke of Devon/hire^ who had a few days before declared at X)erl)y for a free parliament, the Earl of Stamfordj Lord Howe^ Lord Delamere (af-r terwards Earl of Warrington^ and many other gentlemen, had a meeting on the landing of the Prince of Orange^ and here took their final refolution of joining him. About two miles off is Clifton^ the feat of a very ancient family of the fame name^ which has refided here many hundred years. The approach is through a long avenue, one fide of wliich is planted on a fteep. bank, at the foot of which runs the "Trent. The whole flope is covered vvith fir and elm, which Vv^re planted there about the year 1740, being then large ones, as the gardener who afiiifled in planting, told us. The prefent Sir Gervafe had begun to mo-" dernife his houfe, but broke off on the Deering^s Nottivgha?n^ p. JO 3. fudden t 359 ] fudden death of his lady, which happened about three years ago. The gardens were on the lide of a hill rifing above the houfe, and confiftcd of many flopes, one above another, afcended by flights of llone fleps, and had many yew hedges ; at the top was a large bowling-green, beyond that is a walk thro' a wood, leading to a fummer- houfe, which looks over the river Trent in the valley below, and commands the diftant country. One of the alterations in the houfe will be a very plealing one j the room defigned for Lady Clifton s dreffing-room is to the ibuth, opening on the right and left of a bow-windov/ into a green-houfe. This is making a green-houfe of fome ufe ; it is very common to fee it 'f)laced at fuch a diftance from the houfe as to be feldom vifited^ efpecially at that time of t|he year when it would be moil pleafant, from the want of verdure and warmth elfewhere. When the trees have loft their leaves, the ground is covered with fnow, and nature feems retired within itfelf, can any thing be more agreeable than to ftep from a par- lor at once into the midft of a verdant grove, and the gentle Vv^armth of fummer I This is, in fome decree, to realize a Perjian A a 4 tale ; [ 36o ] tale ) yet few have availed themfelves of the idea. There are fome monuments in the church for the family. From Nottingham it is _ near three miles in the Derby road to JVollaton-hall^ the feat of Lord Middletoriy which ftands on /a knoll, and makes a magnificent appearance at confiderable diftances, It is fquare, w^ith a fquare tovi^er at each corner, adorned with pinnacles. The body of the houfe is a lofty fingle room, rifing high above the reft, and having a round tov;^er or pavilion at each corner, rifing above the whole, but rounded ofi^ at the bottoms. The views thro' feveral villa's in the woods below are fine. So far may be feen, but ftrangers are not permitted to fee the infide, even when the family is abfent ; a piece of pride or gloomy inhofpitality, which for the cre- dit of oLir country is rare. This houfe was built by Sir Francis Willoughby in the time of Queen Klizaheth. Go by Brad?nore and Bunny to JLoughbo^ roughs and fo to Leicejier. At Bradmore the fpire of the church re- mains, but the body has been down fome years, and the inhabitants go to the neigh- bouring church of Bunny ^ or Boney^ whe^e Sir [ 3^1 ] Sir Thomas Tarkyns has a feat, in the front of which is an old gateway in decay, built in a particular and heavy ftile. This fa- mily have been liberal benefailors to the poor : by the church-yard gate is a fchool, built by a Sir Thomas Parkyns about the year 1700, and four rooms at the end for four widov/s. Lady Ann Parkyns endowed it with 16 1. a year, to which Sir Thomas added 5/. a year. In the church is a mo- nument for that lady, mentioning her vir- tues and charities, and her having pro- cured Queen j4?2nes bounty for the vi- carage. There is alfo a monument for Sir Thomas, her fon, who is reprefented {landing in a pofture for wreftling, and in another part he appears thrown by Time, with the following lines written by Dr. Freind : Quern modo ftravifti longo in certamine, tempus. Hie recubat Britonum clarus in orbe pugi!. Jam primum ilvatus ; prseter te vicerat omnes ; De te etiam viilor, quando refurget, erit. The infcription underneath takes notice of his wife's fortune, and the eflates he pur- chafed ; that he rebuilt his farni-houfes, was ilcilled in architedlure and medicine, and that he v^rote a book on wreftling, called The Cornijh Hug JVreJller. This [ 362 ] This gentleman v/as remarkable for his fkill in that exercife ^ he trained many of his fervants and neighbours to it, and when thofe manly (tho' now thought unpoliflied) diverfions were in fafliion, he exhibited his pupils in public with no fmall eclat. By his will he has left a guinea to be wreftled for here every Midfummer-day, and money to the ringers, of whom he alfo made one. He difplayed his learning in feveral curious infcriptions; over a feat by the road fide. Hie Jedeas Viator ft tii defejfiis es ambulando. The honor of a vifit from a judge on the circuit, was commemorated at the horfe- blcck by, Ilinc Jiijliciarius Donuer equum afcendere J ok bat. In the church is a monument, with the date of 1603, for Richard Parky?2s, Efq. his wife, four fons, and four daughters. About a mile before Loughborough is Cotesj an old houfe, once the feat of a gentleip.an who was ruined by his loyalty in the civil war, and the lad of whofe fa- mily died fome years ago in a work-houfe. Alderman Pack of London^ an Oliverian., bought it, and it now belongs to his de- fcendant, whofe houfe is a few miles off. On the reftoration the alderman was in fome danger, but Cy&jr/^j- borrowed 10,000/. of him^ and intimated that if he valued his fafet| [ 363 1 iafety he would not afi 43. C c 3 years. [ 39^ ] years, but not in a very comfortable man- ner, as {he had only a ftone to fit on, and her n^after never fufFered her to ftir out, nor fcarce to fpeak, leaft any of thofe who came to vifit him, fhould be fcandalifed 5 for tho' in truth he never once faw her face, and only talked to her of religious matters, they might have thought dif- ferently. At length he died, and Chrijiina fucceeded to the Vv^hole cell, and to all his fandity^ Galfred^ an abbot of St. Al- bansy ftruck w^ith the report of her piety, built her a houfe, and endow^ed it for the maintenance of her and fome other holy fifters, tho' the convent murmured at this application of their revenues. How^ever, he feems to have borrowed the ground on which he built it, of his neighbours, as the dean and chapter of St. PauVsy in 114c, confirmed the fame to Chrijiina ^nd her fucceilors, at a rent of three fliillings. Hum fry Boucher ^ bale fon to the late Lord Berners, (fays Leiand) did much coft in tranflating of the priory into a manor place ^ but he left it nothing ended Faffing thro* Redburriy a fmall town full of inns for the reception of the numerous waggons which frequent this road, come Dugd. Moju V, I, p. 350. ^ Jtir7, V, !, p. 94c to [ 39 1 ] to St. Albansj rich in antiquities, where, after the lapfe of fo many ages, there ftill remains very much of unqueftionable an- tiquity to gratify the refearches of the ca- rious antiquarian, and where he is not un- der a neceffity of reforting to conjedures, often unfatisfadory to himfelf, oftener to his readers. This town rofe out of the ruins of Old Verulaniy originally a Britifloy afterwards a Roman ilation. Confiderable fragments of the Roman walls ftill remain, altho' great quantities have been taken away at various times for various purpofes ; fometimes to aiTift in ered:ing other buildings, fometimes merely to repair the roads. Here Cafar ob- tained a victory over CaJJibelan^ and this was the fcene of Boadiceas victory and cruelty, when fhe maffacred 70,000 FK.omans and Britons who adhered to them. About the beginning of this century fome humtan bones of an extraordinary fize were found near an urn, infcribed Marcus AntojiinuSy in the place of the Roman camp near this town. They were meafured by Mr. Chefeldeny the celebrated furgeon, who obferved that if all the parts bore a due proportion, the man muft have been eight feet high ^. y PhiLTranf, 17 II, p. 436. C c 4 The [ 392 ] The Roman bricks are of two forts ; the red are of a fine color and clofe texture^ the others have a red cafe over a black, vi- trified fubftance. It has been conje6ture4 that the former were probably baked in the fian, the latter burnt in thg fire, but I doubt much if the fun ever gives heat enough to anfwer the purpofe. The black part refifts a file, and will bear a polilh''. In the v^alls which went nearly round the old city the Roman bricks are interlayed in feparate courfes, between courfes of flints. The quantity of mortar between the bricks is nearly equal to the thicknefs of the bricks themfeives. Four layers are difcernable, the loweft has four bricks^ the next three, and the two uppernioft two each. The diftances between the courfes of bricks, which are filled up with flints and mortar, are two feet eight incheSo The bricks are of unequal thicknefs, from three inches to an inch and quarter ; their lengths are alfo various, from i8 to 12 inches. The Romans had no exadl moulds for their bricks, there being a great dif- ference in the fize of thofe which have been found in feveral parts of this king- dom \ ^ Arch. V. 2. p. 187 ^ Ibid, V. 2. p, jB4j 1S5. The [ 393 ] The abbey church is feen on an emi-? nence, from which-ever fide you approach the town. This noble and venerable re- main of ancient piety and religious mag- nificence, was happily preferved at the dif- folution, being purchafed by the inhabi- tants of the town for 400/. It has been ufed by them as a church ever fince, and has twice fupplied a place for the courts of |aw, when the judges adjourned from Weft- minjier-'hall on account of the plague ^ but it had a narrow efcape, a few years ago, from failing a facrifice to avarice and mean fpiritednefs. The repairs which had been made at different times were found expenr five, and a fcheme was formed to pull it down and build a fmaller church. This abbey, which was one of the mi- tred ones, and in point of rank and wealth was one of the greateft in Ihnglajidy (and was thought not unworthy the acceptance of Cardinal Woljey after he had obtained the archbifhoprick of Tork) was founded by Offdy King of the Mercians^ in 793, on the fpot where the bones of St. Albany who fnffered martyrdom in 293, were dif- covered. The materials of the walls of Old Ferulam have been employed in build- [ 394 ] ing the fteeple, and a confiderable part of the church. In the moft eaftern part flood the flirine of St. Albany which was adorned in the richeft manner. The ftone fcreen at the communion-table is a very light and ele- gant piece of work, fet up by John de Whethamjieady who was chofen abbot in 1434; he took for his arms three ears of wheat, in allufion to the name of the place from whence he was called, and they are carved in divers places in this fcreen. The centre is modern work, a crucifix, which originally flood there, being removed. The braffes of the grave-ftones are all either broken or deftroyed, except thofe of one of the abbots in the choir, which are perfeil, the flone having been turned up- fide down to preferve them from the ra- vages of the parliament army, by which the others fqffered fo much. About 70 years ago the flairs were difcovered which lead to the vault where the body of Hum^ phrjy Duke of Glocejiery uncle to Henry 6. was found in a leaden coffin, preferved en- tire by a pickle. That of his brother, the Puke of Exeter y was found at St. Ed- mond' s-hury^ in Suffolk^ a few years ago, preferved in the fame manner, but was moft fhamefully [ 395 3 fhamefully mangled by the workmen and a furgeon there. The weft end of the choir has a noble piece of Gothic workmanfliip for the orna- ment of the high altar. In the middle of the centre aile is a remarkable reverberation of found from the roof, which is painted throughout with devices and the arms of the benefadors, the colors of which, tho' certainly of fome ages ftanding, are re- markably frefh. The arms of the prin- cipal contributors to the repair in the laft century, after the havoc made in the civil wars, are in the choir. At the eaft end is a place which has been ufcd as a fchool, and is part of the church, but the communication with the choir is cut off by a wall. Near the weft end of the church is the old gateway of the abbey, now ufed as a prifon. Between the abbev and Old Verulam was a large deep pool, now a meadow, which belonged to the caftle of King/bury, fituate at the weft end of the town, where the king and his nobility ufed often to divert themfelves with failing in large veffels, the anchors and other tackle of which have been found here. Upon thofe occafions jhey reforted to the abbey, which was at- tended [ 396 ] tended with fo much expence to the monks, that they purchafed the pool of King Edgar^ and drained it. On the dilTolution the revenues were va- lued at about 2500/. Soon after. King Edwards, gave the town a charter of in- corporation, and granted them the patronage of this church. The church of St. Michael was built by the Saxons in the tenth century, with the fame fort of tiles as were ufed by the Ror- mans^ and has probably many Roman tiles worked up in it, taken from the neigh- bouring walls of Verulam \ but it is con- jedured that the tiles which are ufed here and in the abbey church, are not all man^ the nature of the feveral parts of the work, and the hardnefs of the Roman tiles, rendering it neceJfiary to make tiles of dif- ferent forms and dimenfions, for fuch parts as were required to be neat and exad:. And it appears on near infpedion, that m.oft of the tiles were moulded on purpofe, parti- cularly for the newells of the^ flairs, and the fmall round pillars, which were all made in circular moulds ^. In this church is a monument for Sir Francis Bacon, with ^ yh'ch, V. 4, p. 86. a fine [ 397 ] a fine figure of him in white marble, fitting in a chair. In the meadows on the right (going to London) are fome remains of the nunnery of Sopwelly founded about 1140, by the fame abbot who founded that at Market- jlreety as mentioned before. The nuns were governed by the rule of St. Bennett, and were to keep filence in the church, the cloyfier, the refedory, and the dormitory, A hard tafl^ this ! Henry 8. kindly fet their tongues at liberty, and granted the build- ing to Sir Richard a Leigh, by one of w^hofe daughters it pafied to the Sadlers ; a daughter of that family carried it to Saunders, who in the laft century fold it to Sir Har bottle Grimjion, to whofe de- fcendant the Lord Vifcount Grimjion, it now belongs. There was once a manfion- houfe, now nearly pulled down, which has not been inhabited fince the time of the Sadlers. A confiderable manor belongs to it. It is faid that Henry 8. was mar- ried to Anna Boleyn at this place. In this town was one of the crofles fet up by Edward i. but it is now deftroyed. Earl Spencer has a houfe in the town, which was the old Dutchefs of Marlbo- rough's, and the intereft of the borough is divided [ 39S ] divided between this family and that of Lord Grimjioriy whofe feat, called Gorharn-' biiryy the refidence of the great Sir Francis Bacoriy is at a fmall diftance. The prefent owner is building a magnificent houfe in the room of the old one, not on the fame fpot. The reprefentatives of the borough have lately made the inhabitants a very welcome prefent, which the dry fummers we have had, has rendered particularly acceptable. They have funk tv/o wells for public ufe, which are 30 or 40 yards deep, but the contrivance for winding up the buckets is fuch, that it is done with great eafe. The expence was about 200/. This place has been the fcene of many notable adions. Here the Earl of Lan-- cajierj and others of the nobility ftaid, ex- pecting an anfwer to their meffage to that w^eak, mifguided prince, Edward 2. re- quiring him to banifh the Defpencersy to whofe councils the oppreffions under which the kingdom groaned, were attributed. The king returned a haughty anfwer, but was foon afterw^ards obliged to comply. Two bloody battles between the houfes of Tork and Lancajier^ were fought here ; the firfl: in 1455, when the Duke of Tork^ 2 affifled [ 399 ] alTifted by the Earl of Warwick , defeated Henry J and took him prifoner; the other in 1461, on Bernard' s-heathy when the queen, aided by the northern barons, de- feated the earl and retook the king, but ftained the vidlory by the cruelty flie exer- cifed on the prifoners. The refledions arifing from the fate of the many gallant men who loft their lives in the inteftine feuds of thofe days, are truly melancholy. The moft ancient and fplendid houfes were ruined, the kingdom ravaged^ and the people equally oppreffed which ever fide prevailed. Agriculture was negleded, of courfe a fcarcity enfued, and that pro- duced peftilential difeafes, which compleated the mifery. Nor were thefe the confequences of that noble ftruggle for liberty which the barons had heretofore made, and when the prefent inconveniencies were compenfated by the fubfequent advantages; the horrors of this war were occaiioned by a weak woman attempting to govern on one fide, and am- bitious nobles ftruggling for power on the other. The conduit of moft of the leaders fliews that they aded from that motive, or from a ftill worfe. How happy are we in thefe days, did we but know our own happinefs, when the jioife [ 406 ] noife of war is only heard frorii diftahcc, and lofes its terrors in its paflage crofs the ocean ; when the ariftocratic tyranny of the nobles is no more, and when the meanefl peafint enjoys his little property in fafety, fecure in the protecftion of equal laws ! May we prize this fituation as we ought to do ! may we never feel the miferies of civil dif- fenfions ; and may no enthufiafl:, profaning the benevolent religion he impioufly pre- tends to fupport, fucceed in an attempt to draw that fharpell: of all fv/ords which fu- perftition has happily been fo long obliged to carry under his cloak, that it has rufted in the fcabbard ! Being now come almoft within fight of Londoriy I take my leave of the reader, fa- tisfied if my endeavors to amufe him have not been altogether fruitlefs. ITER, ( 401 ] T E R. Miles. 1 1 ^7 5 7 16 10 i3 H 1 1 ^7 To UXBRIDGE Amerfliam Aylefbary Buckingham Aftrop Banbury Edgehill Warwick Coventry Hinckley Leicefter Loughborough Derby Kedleflon an^ Matlock - f8 Birchover and back to Matlock i 2 Dovedale and Aflibourn - 14 r)ovedale to Eiton 8 Aflihourn Bakewell and Monfail Matlock Matlock Hardwjck Matlock To Chatfworth Tidfwell Caftleton Tidfwell Sheffield Barnfley Wakefield Q.^ Leeds ^I^Harewood Boroughbridgel Knarefbprough > Miles, 12 JO 10 J I i I ID 10 Ripley Rippoa Studley an4 Mafliam Hackfall Middleham Ayfgarth Afls^rigg Kettlewell Malham and Skiptoa Otley Leeds Wakefield Barnfley Wentworth 4 4 16 10 8 8 26 20 iz H 21 22 - 15 10 - 8 10 Rotheram t 402 3 Miles ci To ilotherham 5 To Nottinghata 14 Workfop - 17 Loughborough 14 Wellbeck - 4 Leicefter - 10 Crefweli Cragg 3 Harborough - 16 Bolfover - 6 Northampton - 17 Workfop to Mans-- Althrop - ^ field - 12 Newport Pagnell 15 Or Workfop by Woburn - g Clumber and Dunftable - 9 Thorefby to St. Alban's - 13 Palethorp - 6 Barnet - 10 Ollerton - 3 London — 11 Rufford - 2 THE END. / V 6EflV CENTER I