MEMOIRS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 PEABODY MUSEUM OF AMERICAN ARCHAEOLOGY AND 
 ETHNOLOGY, HARVARD UNIVERSITY 
 
 Vol. II— No. 1 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE CENTRAL PORTION 
 
 or THE 
 
 USUMATSINTLA VALLEY 
 
 Rei>ort of Explorations for the Museum, 1898-1900 
 
 BY 
 
 TEOBERT MALER 
 
 CAMBKIDOE: 
 PUBLISHED BY THE MUSEUM 
 1901 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 List of Plates 5 
 
 EDrTORiAL Note 7 
 
 1. La Reforma 9 
 
 II. CriiNiKinX 10 
 
 III. CniNCALA 13 
 
 IV. XupX 17 
 
 V. Peth^ 22 
 
 VI. PiEDRis Negras 40 
 
LIST OF PLATES. 
 
 Platf: 
 I. 
 
 IL 
 III. 
 IV. 
 
 V. 
 
 Sketch Map of the Central Portion of the Usumatsiutla Valley. 
 Chiuikiha. Sculptured GlyphM upon Frontal Faces of Stone Table. 
 Chancala. Pyramid and Temple. 
 
 " Waterfall, Rio Chancala. 
 Lake Petha. 1-3, 5-6, Maler's Men in Indian Dugout or Cayuco. 
 ^' " 4, Lacantun Indians. 
 
 " " 1, Maler's Men and Lacantun Indians in Cayucos. 
 " " 2-5, Lacantun Indians. 
 
 " " 6, Incense Vessels from the " House of the Dead Brother.' 
 
 VII. Piedras Negras. 
 
 1. River Scene near Sacrificial Rock. 
 
 2. Altar 3. 
 
 VIII. " " 
 
 Altar 1. 
 
 IX. " " 
 
 Altar 4. 
 
 X. " " 
 
 Oue of the Supports of Altar 2. 
 
 XI. " " 
 
 One of the Supports of an Altar. 
 
 XII. " " 
 
 Stela 1. 
 
 XIII. " " 
 
 Stela 3. 
 
 XIV. 
 
 Stela 4. 
 
 XV. 
 
 Stela! 2, a and 6. 
 
 XVI. " " 
 
 Stela 7. 
 
 XVII. " 
 
 Stela 8. 
 
 XVIII. " " 
 
 Stelaj 9 and 13. 
 
 XIX. " " 
 
 Stela 10. 
 
 XX. " " 
 
 Stelffi 11 and 14. 
 
 XXI. " " 
 
 Stela 12. 
 
 xxir. " 
 
 Stela 25 (Cast in Feabody Museum). 
 
 XXIII. " 
 
 Stela 26. 
 
 XXIV. " " 
 
 Stela 29. 
 
 XXV. " " 
 
 Stela 31. 
 
 XXVI. " " 
 
 Stete 32 and 33. 
 
 XXVII. 
 
 Stela 34 (Cast in Peabody Museum). 
 
 XXVIII. 
 
 Stela 3.5. 
 
 XXIX. " " 
 
 Stela 36 (Cast in Pe.abody Museum). 
 
 XXX. 
 
 Lintel 1 (Fragment). 
 
 XXXI. 
 
 Lintel 2. 
 
 XXXII. " " 
 
 Lintel 4 (Cast in Peabody Museum). 
 
 XXXIII. 
 
 Plan of the Ruins. 
 
EDITOEIAL NOTE. 
 
 This report by Mr. Teobert Maler covers his explorations of several 
 groups of ancient ruins in the valley of the Usumatsintla and his visit to 
 the Lacantuns of Lake Petha. ft is the first of a series which will make 
 known the results of the researches which IMr. Maler is conducting under 
 the auspices of the Museum. 
 
 In his graphic and entertaining style, Mr. Maler gives ns vivid pictures 
 of tlie wild beauty and tropical luxuriousness of the country througli wliich 
 he journeys ; and in the relation of his dealings with the Lacantuns he 
 gives us glimp.ses of the life and customs of these little-known denizens 
 of the jungle about Lake Petha. 
 
 Mr. Maler has spent many years in Mexico and Central America, and 
 has examined and pliotographed many of the prehistoric ruins and sculptures 
 of that region. The beautiful photographs which he has so skilfully taken 
 — notwitlistanding the difficulties to be overcome — have made his name 
 familiar to all students of American archaeology ; and it will be gratifying 
 to all Americanists to read this account of Mr. Maler's explorations and to 
 examine the interesting series of photographs here published. 
 
 Mr. Maler's map of the Central Usumatsintla Valley and his plan of the 
 ruins of Piedras Negras, here reproduced, will awaken a new interest in 
 the great cities of the past, which are still hidden in the jungles of Central 
 America. 
 
 This report was written in German by Mr. Maler, and has been trans- 
 lated into Englisli by Miss Selma Wesselhoeft, assisted by Miss A. M. 
 Parker. Every effort has been made to secure an accurate translation and 
 to keep the decisive style of the anthor ; while the Editor has respected 
 the fact that the author could not revise the proofs. Mr. Maler is therefore 
 responsible for the opinions expressed and tlie statements made, as well 
 as for the spelhng of proper names, in which he sometimes differs from the 
 generally accepted orthography. 
 
 The reproduction of the photographs has been admirably accomplished by 
 the heliotype process, special care having been taken by the Heliotype 
 
8 EDITORIAL NOTE. 
 
 Company to accurately reproduce the original prints. This part of the 
 work lias been carefully supervised by Mr. C. C. Willoughby. 
 
 It is a pleasure to acknowledge, in beliali: of the Museum, our indebted- 
 ness to Mr. Charles P. Bowditch of the Museum Faculty for his continued 
 interest and co-operation in the work pertaining to Central America. Our 
 thanks are also tendered to all the .subscribers whose generous aid has 
 made it possible to continue our researclies in Central America and to 
 publish the results. 
 
 F. W. PUTNAM, 
 
 Curator of the Museum. 
 
 llAIiVAliD 17NIVERSITY, CAMBRIDGE, 
 
 October, 1901. 
 
 SUBSCRIBERS 
 
 TO THE FUND FOR THE ENCOURAGEMENT OF CENTRAL 
 AMERICAN RESEARCH. 
 
 STEPHEN SALISBURY, Worcester 
 
 CHARLES P. BOWDITCH, Boston 
 AUGUSTUS HEMENWAY, Boston 
 JUDGE FRANCIS C. LOWELL, BostOn 
 MR. & MRS. HENRY PICKERING, Boston 
 MISS ELLEN F. MASON, BoSton 
 
 MISS CAROLINE P. 
 
 EDWARD S. GREW, Boston 
 MRS. G. G. LOWELL, Boston 
 GEORGE A. NICKERSON, BostOn 
 NATHANIEL THAYER, Boston 
 ELIOT C. LEE, Boston 
 MISS MARY L. WARE, BOSton 
 
 STOKES, New York 
 
RESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 I. 
 
 LA REFORMA. 
 
 In the middle of January, 1898, after I had engaged four men in 
 Tenosique and had finished other preparations for my journey, I left this 
 starting-point of niy expeditions, intending to explore the route from Chini- 
 kiha to Xupa, and to go to Palenque if circumstances allowed, and then to 
 push on to the great Lake of Petha and the settlements of the Lacantuns. 
 
 Accompanied by two of my men and our luggage, I travelled in a 
 cayuco up to Pomona, a small settlement two leagues above Tenosique (see 
 map, Plate I), while the other two men brought the pack animals by land 
 to the crossing-place at Pomona, where they safely crossed the Usumatsintla, 
 with the help of the cayucos and the men which I sent to their assistance 
 after my arrival. Pomona comprises only a few huts, inhabited by people 
 belonging to the sugar rancho of San Antonio on the opposite shore. 
 
 We spent the night at Pomona ; on the next day we took the road 
 through the forests to La Eeforraa, where we arrived after a two days' 
 journey. La Reforma is a large settlement belonging to the firm of 
 Romano, and lies close to the right shore of the Cliacamax, perhaps ten 
 leagues from Pomona and Tenosique. 
 
 Not being acquainted with the managers who were in charge of this 
 monteria, I naturally had some difficulty in making them understand the 
 object of my coming, and in obtaining their permission to unload my lug- 
 gage and to shelter my men in some corner of one of their buildings. By 
 degrees, however, friendly relations were established with these gentlemen. 
 Gradually they began to take an interest in my not uninteresting expedi- 
 tions, and also to render me some assistance. One of the managers was a 
 Spaniard, Isidore Mucha by name ; the other was an engineer, Felippe 
 Molina, from the city of Mexico. Both were agreeable and cultivated men. 
 
 A road — which is in a frightful condition during tlie greater part of 
 tlie year — loads from La Reforma to the distant settlement, on the Lacantun 
 River, belonging to the same firm of Romano, and called Los Tmidales. 
 This forest road runs directly through the vast wilderness in which the scat- 
 tered remnants of the Maya-Lacantuns live. 
 
 MEM. PEABODT MUSEUM II. — 2 9 
 
10 
 
 EESEAKCHES m THE USUMATSISTLA VALLEY. 
 
 Southward from the duster of buildings of La Eeforraa, a small moun- 
 tain range is visible, the crest of which forms an extensive plateau, on which 
 the ruins of a little ancient city lie hidden among the high forest trees. 
 Although the monteros had found nothing of importance there, as the ruins 
 lay within easy reacli I deemed it advisable to explore them. Following 
 the road to Tzendales for two kilometres, and then turning to the right 
 where the road is crossed by a small stream and a giant ceiba lifts its top 
 to the sky, we entered the forest. Ascending the slopes, we soon reached 
 the ruins, which were quite numerous and often quite imposing, — founda- 
 tion walls, levelled areas, heaps of ruins, etc. Finally, we also discovered 
 the principal temple, which crowned the platform of a massive, well-preserved 
 substructure about six metres in height. It was still possible to determine 
 the position of the various apartments of this edifice. I thoroughly explored 
 these ruins and their neighborhood for sculptured stones, but in vain. All 
 I found was a large, thick stone slab (sacrificial table ?) on which, however, 
 there was no drawing of any kind. 
 
 I called these ruins " Las Ruinas de La Eeforma." 
 
 n. 
 
 CHINIKIHA. 
 
 The name Chinikiha (Tsinikiha), or Chinikilha, admits of a twofold 
 interpretation: chi-nikil-ha (tsi-nikil-hft) = " mouth or opening of the dis- 
 appearing water," in allusion to the river passing through a rocky tunnel 
 not far from the ruins. Or it may also be that there is in this region a tree 
 named chinikil (nic, nicte, in names of plants always signify " flower "). 
 Hence the name — without putting too much emphasis on the second i — 
 can also signify " water where the chinikil tree grows." 
 
 I had long known that there was a large ruined city on the Chinikih;! 
 River, but it was not until the middle of January, 1898, after making my 
 headquarters in La Reforma, that I was able to undertake the thorough 
 exploration of these ruins. To reach them we first took the camino de 
 Tzendaks, and after travelling for about two leagues (or for two hours), we 
 turned off to the left, following the path of an abandoned monteria, El 
 Clavo, and by turning still farther to the left, we soon crossed the Chinikih£ 
 and reached the camino viejo de Tenosique, a road which passes straight 
 through the ruined city. Here on this path, which is now seldom used, we 
 built a small palm-leaf hut, cJiampa, at a spot convenient for bathing in 
 the river and for providing ourselves with water. 
 
 We first explored all the remains on the right of the rond, but found 
 nothing but remnants of walls and terraces, with the exception that in one 
 
chinikihA. 
 
 11 
 
 building we found small rear rooms in a half-preserved condition ; every- 
 thing else was completely in ruins. Then we followed the road to Tenosique 
 for nearly two kilometres, to the end of the mountain pass, where the path 
 running between high cliffs begins to descend into the valley of the Usumat- 
 sintla. Though it was a difficult task, we climbed these cliffs and enjoyed 
 a magnificent view of the endless, wooded lowlands through which the 
 Usumatsintla rolls. From these lofty heights our view extended as far as 
 Balancan and beyond. But finding uo structures on these cliffs, we returned 
 wearied to our camp. 
 
 On the following day we undertook the exploration of that portion of 
 the town which lies on the left of the road. Here we found the main mass 
 of the buildings, which, it is true, are mostly in ruins. Two groups of 
 buildings of noble proportions especially attracted our attention. In one 
 the outlines of a large court were recognizable, intersected by a high and 
 massive structure. The rooms which formerly bordered this court were 
 in ruins, but from out the debris projected great lintels. These I examined 
 in the hope of finding sculptures on the under side, but, alas, in vain! 
 
 The other larger group of buildings, which in past years had more 
 particularly fallen a prey to the depredations of the woodcutters exploiting 
 these woods, was especially difficult to rediscover, since, when the wood- 
 cutters abandoned this region, the forest had been set on fire and every- 
 thing was now concealed by the dense vegetation. 
 
 Mr, Molina himself came to our assistance from La Keforma, bringing 
 with him some of the most experienced of the elder monteros. And it 
 was only with this help that we were successful in finding the ruins. 
 
 A great pyramid, rising in several terraces, once formed the substruc- 
 ture of the principal temple, which now like the adjacent apartments has 
 fallen to ruin. From among the debris the woodcutters — who, I regret to 
 say, seem to busy themselv&s, incidentally and in a manner quite uncalled 
 for, with archaeology, but naturally only after the style of woodcutters — 
 had taken out a slab bearing inscriptions, intending to carry it away with 
 them, but finding it too heavy, they left it lying on the side of the pyramid 
 and contented themselves with knocking off a corner to take with them as 
 a " specimen " ! 
 
 I succeeded in finding this slab, and at once perceived that it was part 
 of a stone table, which had rested against a wall, and whose three exposed 
 (naturally narrow) faces were ornamented with very delicately executed 
 hieroglyphs in bas-relief, while the top (at least of the portion which I 
 found) also had an inscription, which, however, was incised. 
 
 Here was another instance of the mischief arising from the nreddling 
 of ignorant people. If the men had simply left the slab on the spot where 
 they found it, it would have been an easy matter for me to have dug a 
 little further and the missing portion would undoubtedly have come to 
 
12 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 light. Now, of course, no one can surmise in what part of tlie huge 
 pj'ramid of ruins, overgrown with trees, this table stood. We must perforce 
 be content, therefore, with the mutilated fragment here discovered. 
 
 The table is chiselled out of the finest limestone. Its breadth is sixty- 
 two centimetres, the length of the part found is seventy-five, the width of 
 the band of glyphs is seven, but the general thickness of the stone is some- 
 what more. The incised inscription of the top formerly consisted (according 
 to my calculation) of twenty-four squares containing glyphs in two rows of 
 twelve each. Of the first row eight are preserved, and of the second six. 
 The missing squares belong to the broken-off corner. The first seven glyph- 
 squares of the outer band were preserved ; then, on the same side, there were 
 probably four more, and around the broken-of£ corner, on the long side, 
 probably six more ; then followed seven well-preserved squares to the edge 
 where the missing portion of the table formerly joined. 
 
 I have taken photographs of the bands of glyphs preserved on the 
 narrow frontal faces (Plate II), and have made a tracing of the incised 
 inscription on the upper face (Fig. 1). 
 
 Fig. 1. — CniNiKiHA : Portion of Incised Inschiption upon Upper Serfacf. of Stone Table. 
 
 Adjoining the north side of the ruined pyramid is an extensive palace 
 with several courts. On one side of the main court there is a row of nar- 
 row entrances, which are arched over with triangular arches flattened at 
 tlie top. 1^ These entrances, I think, did not lead to actual apartments, 
 but only to a passageway by which chambers in the rear and at the sides 
 may have been reached, while the horizontal stone roof formed an elevated 
 passage to adjoining terraces. 
 
 Climbing over the ruins of the fallen chambers, which lie opposite the 
 structure with the flattened triangular arches, we came to further remains of 
 buildings and to a covered passageway, which must have led to chambers 
 now filled with debris. Traces of painting (red scroll work) were still 
 visible on the plastered walls of this passageway (or anteroom), but they 
 had become so indistinct that it was impossible for me to copy the design. 
 
 Since the principal facades of this group of edifices, especially that of 
 the temple, must have faced the west, I carefully searched the ground in 
 
CriXjiCALA. 
 
 13 
 
 front o£ it for sculptured stones, and found a small circular sacrificial 
 table, and near it the fragments of a small stela, wliicli had the fisure of a 
 man on one side and an inscription on the other. Unfortunately both sides 
 of the stela were so much worn off by the rain tliat I could not photograph 
 them. Whether the destruction of this stela is also to be imputed to 
 the monteros and the lire which broke out at that time, it was useless to 
 inquire. I will only remark that in almost all cases where a sculptured 
 stela is da.shed down by the accidental fiUl of a forest giant, the picture 
 facing upward is destroyed, but the one turned downward is marvellously 
 well-preserved. The only explanation I can give for the fact that both 
 faces of this stela were worn off is, that some intruder out of curiosity had 
 turned the fragments over and had then left them lying there. 
 
 This second group of edifices lies in the northeastern part of the city, 
 and at a slight distance from it, but to the northeast there is a large 
 truncated pyramid, which might prove of great interest to a future explorer 
 able to undertake excavations on a more extended scale. Without wishing 
 further to blame the honest woodcutters — who apologized to me for 
 having meddled in archaeological matters by saying that they could not 
 have foreseen that some time I should penetrate into these hidden corners 
 — I must mention, however, to complete the matter, that one of the mozos 
 found among these ruins a small sculptured stone in perfect preservation 
 which, it is said, still showed some traces of colors, and that he had carried 
 it off with the intention of selling it to one of the managers of La Keforma. 
 But on the road — who knows where? — on thinking the matter over and 
 being in doubt whether he should receive the hoped-for recompense of fifty 
 pesos, and the stone being somewhat heavy, he hid it in the woods. At 
 the time of my stay in La Eeforma, this man was in far-off Tzendales; 
 hence it was utterly impossible to find the stone, which may now be forever 
 lost. 
 
 in. 
 
 CHANCALA. 
 
 Chancala (tsankala) is the name of a plant with large leaves, the seed- 
 pods of which contain small black balls, which, when pierced with holes, are 
 used by the Indian women for necklaces. It is the Heliconia of the 
 botanists. 
 
 At the end of January, 1898, leaving the larger part of my baggage at 
 La Reforma, I went with my men to the waterfall of the Chancala River 
 to investigate a ruined city in that locality. The road was extremely miry 
 and occasioned us much trouble. We passed first through a small rancho, 
 and were courteously received by the occupant, who had lost his right hand 
 
14 
 
 EESEAECIIES IN THE USUMiTSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 while pressing sugar-cane. We crossed the Ciiancala River about one league 
 above the waterfall, where lie the crumbling huts of the abandoned rnon- 
 teria, La Cuiia. Hard by the waterfall — on the right bank — are also the 
 huts of a former lumber-camp, El Chorro, and in the best of these we settled 
 ourselves for the night. We were about seven leagues from La Reforraa. 
 
 The ruined city is perhaps three kilometres to the south of these huts, 
 but owing to the extremely dense vegetation, it was impossible to reach it by 
 a direct route. Therefore, when we were ready the next morning, the guide 
 whom we had obtained at La Reforraa, preferred to follow the path leading 
 down stream for a considerable distance and then, turning to the right, to 
 go up hill by a very much overgrown wood-road. On our journey we 
 passed several streams of water, clear as crystal, whose banks were gay with 
 interesting flowers. Finally we came to some masonry which enclosed an 
 artificial mound of earth, from which, however, the structures which had 
 once surmounted it had entirely disappeared. In spite of the fact that we 
 had successfully reached the ruined city we were seeking, the guide who 
 had been sent with us became so discouraged, owing to the rank ve,i;etot ion 
 which obstructed all the former paths, that with all sorts of prevarications 
 and lying pretexts he cowardly forsook us and returned to La Reforma. 
 I quietly let the rascal go, as I had very capable men with me. We at 
 once began to explore the forest in which the ruins lay in all directions. 
 We found a considerable number of substructures, both large and small, 
 heaps of ruins, etc. In the southwestern part of the town we climbed a 
 high natural hill in the hope of finding the principal temple on its top. 
 Indeed near the summit there were remains of terrace walls, and at the 
 very top a small ruined pyramid indicated that a temple had formerly 
 stood there. From this hill we were able to overlook, in a measure, the sur- 
 rounding country, without however gaining an advantage thereby, on 
 account of the exceedingly tall growth of the trees. The trunks of many 
 of the trees were of extraordinary thickness and height. An especial object 
 of wonder to me was a ceiba — yaxche (yas-tse = green stem) as the Mayas 
 call it — of giant proportions. 
 
 In the northwestern part of the town we were first successful in dis- 
 covering a temple, in a fairly good state of preservation, which crowned a 
 small pyramid of six terraces. To make the satisfaction of my men com- 
 plete, they shot a slender variety of monkey, a mico, so that we had no lack" 
 of meat. The front of the temple faced the west, and my men began 
 carefully to cut down the vegetation on that side, while I drew the plan 
 (Fig. 2). 
 
 A broad flight of steps, now of course partially in ruins, leads up to 
 the platform of the pyramid. The latter, which is about nine metres high, 
 is compo.sed of six terraces, some of which are still distinctly visible. The 
 entrance to the interior of the temple is two hundred and fifty centimetres 
 
CHiNCALA. 
 
 15 
 
 wide, and formerly had wooden lintels, which were either torn out by ruth- 
 less hands or were destroyed by some other means. As a result, the corre- 
 sponding pieces of the frieze and the vaulted ceiling have fallen down and 
 the passage is obstructed. The interior of the temple is two hundred and 
 thirty-three centimetres wide, three hundred and ninety long, and four hvm- 
 dred and .sixty-three high, from the cemented floor to the truncation of the 
 
 Fig. 2. — Ch.^ncai.a : Plan of Templk and Suhstructure. 
 
 pointed arch of the vault, which at its base is separated from the face of 
 the wall by a cornice. The walls of the room had evidently been covered 
 over at different times with fine white stucco. Near the inner edges of the 
 door jambs, both above and below, there is always a wall-ring hollowed out 
 of a stone protruding from the masonry, which served to hold the wooden 
 pegs of the mats or basket-work screens which covered the doorways. 
 
 The exterior of the temple is as follows : A stone bench, projecting 
 about thirty centimetres, runs all around, forming a strong foundation. 
 
16 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 The main surfaces of the wall are smooth, but on both sides of tlie entrance 
 I could discern traces of a scrolled border; besides this, close below the 
 projecting slabs of the cornice, along the entire facade, ran a red band of 
 hieroglyphs, and below this another red band, which was intersected by the 
 lintel. Even on the smooth surface of the front wall vestiges of red color 
 were perceptible, so that it may be assumed that the entire front surface of 
 the main wall, together with the edge of the door and the band of glyphs, 
 was painted fiery red, with the exception of the small squares containing 
 the hieroglyphs — of which only three are preserved — and these it seems 
 
 Fig. 3. — ChXncala : Cross-sf.ctiox of Tkmplf. and Suustructurf. 
 
 to me were left white so that they might form a contrast to the red back- 
 ground. The glyphs did not form a closely consecutive series, but were 
 separated by rather wide intervals. One of the little pictures shows two 
 charming faces in profile, one placed half over the other, surrounded by some 
 explanatory signs. The other two glyphs consist of tangled scrolls. 
 
 The frieze has a heavy cornice, composed of strongly projecting bevelled 
 slabs, and above this lies a somewhat receding course of stone. The steeply 
 sloping surfaces of the frieze were probably ornamented at the corners and 
 at stated intervals with sitting figures in stucco, measuring about two-thirds 
 of the height of the frieze (Fig. •"). Onl)' the stones forming the bases of 
 these figures are preserved, while the greater portion of the stucco has fallen 
 off. The upper cornice of the frieze is like the lower, but less heavy. 
 
xui'X. 
 
 17 
 
 I am sorry to say that it was no longer possible to tell whether the 
 temple had been formerly crowned by an ornamental coping or not. The 
 height of the exterior of the temple from the platform to the upper edge 
 of the cornice, I calculated at about 6.13 metres. The length is about 5.90 
 metres and the breadth 4. 65 metres. 
 
 On the third day we again returned to the ruined city to photograph 
 the temple (Plate III), which was rendered very difficult by the unfavorable 
 light. As a matter of course, we also explored the ground at the western 
 side of the temple to see if we might not find a sacrificial altar, or a stela 
 representing a god or marking a grave, but we searched in vain. Tliis 
 region of ruins is also variously traversed by brooks, whose water, ice-cold 
 at this season, greatly refreshed us while we discussed our roast monkey 
 and other provisions with a keen relish. All the streams are filled with 
 edible snails, Melania levissima, = xot {sot) of the Mayas. The .shells of tlie 
 dead snails are soon covered with a thick calcareous crust, which continually 
 increases as the years go by, forming cones of various sizes until the unin- 
 itiated would hardly suspect that the resultant mass had once been a .snail- 
 shelL A day was also devoted to photographing the magnificent waterfall 
 (Plate IV). In order to descend the steep walls of the ravine in front of 
 this waterfall, we had to tie ropes to the trees. In this way alone were we 
 able to accomplish the descent and to carry the photographic apparatus 
 down uninjured. Setting up the camera on the rocks below, I took two 
 photographs, one of which was very successful, in spite of the difficulty in 
 harmonizing the dark trees with the blinding whiteness of the waterfall and 
 the blue sky. Further on, below the waterfall, the river forces its way 
 between high cliffs, affording a series of very picturesque scenes. 
 
 Having finished our task, we returned to La Reforma. 
 
 IV. 
 
 XUPA. 
 
 X^lpd (stipd) = Brook of the Ants. In Yucatan the army ants are called 
 mlab (sulai). 
 
 We left Reforma on the 4th of February, 1898, crossing the Chaca- 
 max in a cayuco and loading our animals on the left bank. We took the 
 road to Palenque, and the first settlement we reached was the raonteria, La 
 Nueva Esperanza, which had been recentlj' established close to the left 
 bank of the Chacamax. The proprietor, Don Luis Gonzali of Comalcalco, 
 received us very kindly. 
 
 Sr. G6nzali was formerly in the employ of the firm of Romano, and 
 directed the building of the road from La Reforma to Tzendales, which 
 
 MEM. PEABODY MUSECM II. — .3 
 
18 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSIXTLA VALLEY. 
 
 established the communication between two widely separated settlements. 
 In this vast stretch of wilderness the workmen did not once encounter a 
 ruined city ; however, about eight leagues from Tzendales, at a point which 
 the men called Champa de San Pedro (not far from the San Pedro Kiver), 
 during an excursion into the forest to the left of the road, Sr. Gonzali, accom- 
 panied hy Rafael Naranjo, came upon a temple which crowned a small cerro 
 (presumably a pyramidal substructure). As it was already late in the even- 
 ing and these gentlemen and their mozos were obliged to hasten back, 
 they made only a hurried inspection of the edifice. They remembered, how- 
 ever, that its ground plan showed a rectangular passage. | | They also 
 saw earthen vessels in the interior, but they did not attempt a further 
 exploration of the ruined city, which is doubtless in the vicinity. I tempo- 
 rarily gave the name Naranjo-Gdmali to these ruins, which I hope may 
 some day be explored. Furthermore, in connection with a land-survey 
 which certain engineers made on the Lacanha River (which runs parallel, so 
 to speak, with the Usumatsintla, but in the opposite direction, flowing into 
 the Lacantun), ruins were found to which I gave the name Ridnas de 
 Lacanha, though as yet I have been imable to undertake an expedition to 
 them for lack of more definite information. Later on Sr. D. Jos(! Nemecke 
 — an experienced man in the lumber-business — told me that the edifice 
 discovered by Gonzali forms part of the ruined city near the river Lacanh^, 
 and that no other ruins exist in that region. I am inclined to agree with 
 this opinion of Sr. Nemecke. 
 
 On the following day we went to the rancho Sulu.sum, belonging to Mr. 
 German KoUer, whom I fortunately met on the road and having inter- 
 changed greetings with him, I communicated to him my intention of visit- 
 ing the ruins of Xupa from his rancho. We had formerly been acquainted, 
 having met in 1877, when I visited the ruins of Palenque ; Mr. KoUer, 
 therefore, consented most courteously to my plan, and promised to accom- 
 pany me in person, as soon as he should return from a short trip which he 
 was obliged to make at that moment. 
 
 About one and one-half leagues from Palenque, we turned aside to the 
 left of the road and passing over the remains of a very ancient city, we soon 
 came to the rancho picturesquely situated on the left bank of the Chacamax, 
 where we were very kindly received by Mr. Roller's wife. 
 
 We remained here two days awaiting Mr. Keller's return, and employed 
 the time in exploring the ruins in the neighborhood, which was the easier 
 inasmuch as large milperias had been established here in recent years and 
 the ruins therefore lay exposed in the abandoned stubble-fields. We did 
 not succeed, however, in discovering a single sculptured stone ; not even in 
 the vicinity of what was once the principal temple, and which is now 
 reduced to a moderately large heap of ruins. But in one place we found 
 large gutter-tiles of baked clay deep in the ground. 
 
xupA. 
 
 19 
 
 Meanwhile Mr. Koller had returned, and on the 8th of February we 
 left the rancho in his company, crossing the Chacainax at a little distance 
 from the huts. Our path now led througli the mountain spurs of this 
 region, until, after travelling about two and one-half leagues, we reached the 
 brook of Xupst. Here we foimd a small palmleaf hut, or champa, where my 
 men unloaded the pack animals and put the camp in order, while I myself 
 with Mr. Koller crossed the stream in search of the principal edifice of the 
 ruined city, as Mr. Koller wished to return to his rancho on the same day. 
 We succeeded in reaching this edifice, blazing the direction thither by cut- 
 ting off branches, so that on the next day the thorough exploration might 
 be carried on without interruption. 
 
 Our camp by that bubbling brook was very comfortable, but about 
 midnight the piercing scream of a panther awoke us from our liglit slum- 
 bers. This animal is not directly dangerous to man, but its repeated shrill 
 cry somewhat disconcerted my men, who were not exactly heroes. It 
 seemed to have the same effect upon a troop of howling monkeys. They 
 had enlivened the stillness of the night with their loud howling, but at the 
 first cry of the panther they were struck dumb, and from this I inferred 
 that the Stcntor niger and the Felis conmlor are not on good terms. 
 
 The ruins are situated on the right bank of the Xupa and are of 
 considerable extent. Nearly all the buildings appear to have had great sub- 
 structures built of good hewn stone. The superstructures are almost with- 
 out exception in ruins, but in all directions there are massive substructures 
 many of which are of considerable size. I have explored very nearly all 
 the buildings and the ground in front of them for sculptured stones, but 
 in vain. The principal temple, once a noble edifice crowning a large 
 pyramidal substructure, alone still exhibits parts of rooms and remains 
 of walls. 
 
 I therefore directed my attention chiefly to the examination of this 
 building. The temple with its faQade faces the east. On this side were 
 the flights of stairs, the terraces forming broad steps, and apartments, 
 now in ruins, adjoining the temple at its base, which were reached from the 
 place in front of the temple. On the west side, on the other hand, the steps 
 of the pyramid formed an ascent to a plateau (west terrace), and from this 
 additional steps rose to the platform. 
 
 As the facade of the temple proper, the right wing, and the middle 
 part are almost entirely in ruins, 1 had great difficulty in understanding the 
 ground plan of the temj^le, but I finally discovered that it was .similar to that 
 of the three well-known temples of Palenque, — the Temple of the Trophy 
 and the first and second Temples of the Oros.s, — which ])roves beyond 
 all doubt that Xupa was very intimately connected with Palenque. Ac- 
 cordingly the temple consisted of a finely vaulted vestibule with four pillars 
 (strips of walls) in front, whose corresponding three entrances were spanned 
 
20 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 by wooden beams, upon which rested the frieze ornamented with figures 
 in stucco. A middle room and two small side rooms corresponded to the 
 vestibule, and into the middle room the sanctuary proper was built, the 
 longitudinal wall of which was adorned with very interesting groups of 
 figures. In three points, however, the temple of Xupa differs from its 
 Palenque model : 
 
 First, The vaulted ceilings of the side chambers at the rear do not run 
 parallel with that of the vestibule, but at right angles to it. 
 
 Secondly, The sanctuary is more massive (thick-walled) in its con- 
 struction. 
 
 Thirdly, The figures on the longitudinal wall of the sanctuary are not 
 in bas-relief, but incised. 
 
 In consequence of the fall of the facade as well as of the vaulted ceiling 
 of the middle room, the entrance to the sanctuary was entirely blocked 
 and the sanctuary itself was buried beneath the ruins. Being thus hidden 
 from sight, it might have been preserved to posterity, if a few years ago 
 inquisitive treasure-seekers froui the village of Palenque and the monterias 
 on the Clulnoala, suspecting a hollow space within this heap of stones, had 
 not made an opening from above, or directly through the vaulted ceiling. 
 These people had not sense enough to surmise that an entrance should be 
 made from in front! When these vandals — using the opening they had 
 made — had descended into the inner chamber, which was painted fiery 
 red, they found that its longitudinal wall was faced with seven narrow 
 stone slabs, on the smooth surfaces of which an extremely interesting group 
 of figures had been incised in outlines drawn with masterly skill. The fact 
 that the thin slabs, which were only forty to forty-five centimetres wide, 
 did not appear to be too heavy for transportation, excited the avarice of 
 these men. Accordingly they decided to pry them off and to sell them 
 secretly. They went to work in a most brutal fashion to execute this 
 decision. It may be assumed that the centre of the mural jjioture repre- 
 sented an altar (or possibly a cross), which occupied the three middle stones, 
 while at the right and left stood male and female figures, perhaps four in 
 all. As the central portion was incomprehensible to these rogues, it 
 appeared to them of but little value, and they broke the slabs in pieces ! 
 I found their fragments scattered about on top of the debris, but I found 
 it impossible to make anything out of them. The slabs with figures seem- 
 ing to be the most valuable, they dragged them out, but not possessing 
 the proper means of transportation to carry them home, they hid part of 
 them on the slope of the pyramid and others farther off in the forest, who 
 knows where ? Only a single slab did these vandals leave on the wall, 
 because, in trying to pry it off with their crowbars, they had knocked off 
 the entire face of the personage represented on it. This figure represents 
 a man of rank, wearing a high helmet with a feather ornament, a necklace. 
 
xvi'A. 
 
 21 
 
 a breastplate of scales, etc. As the face has been entirely destroyed, this 
 figure is worthless and I have made no drawing of it. I searched the 
 terraces of the pyramid very thoroughly for the missing stones, and was 
 fortunate enough to find one of them. This slab was ornamented with the 
 outlines of a lovely female form, having a high and graceful head-dress, a 
 pure Maya profile, a collar of net-work with an edge of beads, and a disk 
 on the middle of the breast. Under her right arm she holds a small animal 
 (bird ?) prepared for a sacrificial gift. She 
 wears the girdle with a mask in front and a 
 St. Andrew's cross at the side, a skirt of net- 
 work with bead fringe, etc. I have made a 
 tracing of this single acquisition of my explo- 
 rations (Fig. 4). 
 
 My annoyance at the ruthless destruction 
 of the decorations of the sanctuary of the 
 temple at Xupa will probably be shared by all 
 Americanists. This crime was probably perpe- 
 trated somewhere about the year 1890, not- 
 withstanding the local authorities of Palenque, 
 or rather of El Salto de Agua, had repeated 
 and strict injunctions from the central gov- 
 ernment to protect the ancient monuments. 
 
 It is probable that the temple was once 
 crowned by an airy roof-comb of twofold char- 
 acter, erected on the roofs of the vaulted cham- 
 bers, which was similar to that of the temples 
 of Palenque. The entire structure viewed from 
 the eastern environs must have been most 
 imposing. 
 
 On the temple site itself I could discover 
 no sacrificial altars or stelfc with figures of 
 gods ; I found only the remains of numerous Chamber of Temple, f 
 smaller structures. 
 
 Before starting on the return journey from these ruins I made an 
 excursion to the monteria established on the Mistolha by an American, 
 McQueen. My object was in part to inquire of his men whether in their 
 wanderings in this wilderness they had seen ruins, and in part to gratify 
 my desire to photograph the magnificent waterfall formed by the river. 
 
 Mr. McQueen received me kindly and gave me a guide to the water- 
 fall. As there had been heavy rains during the preceding days, we had 
 difficulty in crossing the Mistolha, in order to reach the waterfall from the 
 right bank. The waterfall is about two leagues below the monteria and is 
 indeed a splendid sight. The boiling mass of water rushes down a wall of 
 
 Fig. 4. — Xupa: Incised Carv- 
 
22 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 rock one hundred feet in height, piling up such vast masses of spray that it 
 was well-nigh impossible to take a photograph. I finally succeeded, how- 
 ever, with great difficulty in taking one. 
 
 According to a statement of the men, " the petrifaction of a large 
 antediluvian animal" is visible on a boulder when the water is low in the 
 basin at the foot of the falls. An American told me, however, that this 
 petrifaction was only about thirty centimetres long, and was a very distinct 
 and pretty representation of a fish. While I was encamped near the water- 
 fall all these rocks were under the water, and therefore I could not inspect 
 the fossil. 
 
 The Mistolha flows into the Baxcan, which in its turn is a tributary of 
 the Rio de San Pedro Savana. 
 
 Having retraced our steps to the monteria of Mr. McQueen, we rested 
 there for a day, enjoying the agreeable society of that gentleman, and then 
 we turned towards Sulusuin and Palenque. 
 
 V. 
 
 PETHA. 
 
 Aftek exploring the route from Chinikiha to Palenque, I found it 
 necessary to return to my headquarters in Tenosique to organize a second 
 expedition, — this time for the exclusive purpose of rediscovering the long 
 since forgotten Lake of Petha. Having engaged new men and procured 
 fresh provisions, in the middle of August, 1898, I went for the second time 
 to the monteria La Reforma, where I had left my luggage. The rainy 
 season in the mean time had set in in full force, the forest paths were 
 soaked, and all the rivers and brooks were swollen. Nevertheless, very 
 fine weather might be expected even at this season. 
 
 The first part of the road, which has been built by the firm of Romano 
 from La Reforma to Tzendales, running directly through the wilderness, 
 is excessively bad, because the workmen found no firm, stony soil, but 
 only black forest loam. This ground is so boggy throughout the entire 
 year that not even those who laid out the road ventured to use it with 
 their horses or mules. Each traveller, therefore, at the beginning of this 
 road endeavors to take certain circuitous paths leading from abandoned 
 lumber camps, and only strikes into the actual camino de fos Tzendales at the 
 Chocolha. We too followed the general practice, and when on the 27th 
 of August I was able to start from La Reforma with my men and mules, 
 after crossing the Chinikiha we took the narrow forest trail to the 
 abandoned monteria of El Clavo, about three leagues from La Reforma, 
 where the forsaken huts afforded us sufficient shelter from the rain during 
 the night. 
 
pethX. 
 
 23 
 
 On the second day of our journey, in spite of the wretched, miry, and, 
 at times, also mountainous paths, we reached the Chocolha, wliere the 
 neighboring monterias have a ferryman who carries the traveller over in a 
 cayuco. This ferry is called La Culebra and is about five leagues from 
 El Clavo. But about three kilometres before we reached the Chocolha, 
 we were obliged with much difficulty to ford the greatly swollen Chancala, 
 for there was no cayuco here. At La Culebra we found protection from 
 the rain at night in an open hut, un galeron, on the left bank. The 
 ferryman's hut was on the opposite bank. 
 
 On the morning of the 29th of August we crossed the Chocolha with 
 the help of a large cayuco, loaded our pack animals, and from this point 
 took the road to Tzendales, which was in a wretched state besides being 
 very mountainous. Finally we took a forest trail on the right, and late in 
 the afternoon we reached the raonteria of Las Tinieblas, which had been 
 recently established on the riglit bank of the upper Chocolha and — as I 
 had learned — was at that time the most advanced post for those who 
 wished to reach the Lake of Petha. The distance from Culebra to Tinieblas 
 I estimated at five leagues. 
 
 Las Tinieblas is a branch of the great lumber enterprise of Troncoso 
 Cilveti y Ca., who had recently begun the exploitation of the forests along 
 the Chocolha and whose privileges extend to the vicinity of the Lake of 
 Pethit. After I had explained the object of my coming to the encargado 
 of the monterfa, we agreed to send a messenger on the following day to 
 the administrator of the concession, Mr. Cayetano Irigoyen, wlio was fortu- 
 nately just then staying at the neighboring monteria La llusion, and 
 whom I had informed of my intention when I was in Tzendales. In due 
 time I received the following courteous reply from Mr. Irigoyen : 
 
 Troncoso Cilveti y Ca. 
 Corte de Maderas preciosas. 
 Chiapas. 
 
 La Ilusion, Agosto 30 de 1898. 
 
 Seuor Don Teoberto Maler, 
 
 Monteria Las Tinieblas. 
 
 MuY SeSoe mio, — Correspondo con gusto &, su atenta de hoy en IS que me pide 
 un prSctico para su excursion S la laguna Peth4. 
 
 Obsequiando sus deseos, irS manana nuestro dependieute Francisco Guillen para 
 acompaiiarlo, aunque sus conocimientos prScticos en esos higares no son inuy pre- 
 cisos, pero si creo suficientes para llegar bien al punto deseado : pues las mensuras de 
 los terrenos de csta casa, en cuya apertura estuvo (^1, se aproximan k unos pocos 
 kiI6metros de la laguna. 
 
 Deseando le sea satisfactoria su visita 4 estos desiertos me rcpito su affectisimo 
 amigo y servidor 
 
 Cayet.ino Irigoyen. 
 
24 EESEAllCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 Tinieblas is occasionally visited by neighboring Laoantiins, who sell to 
 the employees beautiful bows and arrows, rare birds and other articles ; and 
 yet none of the people here had the least idea where the Lake of Petha was 
 situated or how the Indian settlements could be reached. 
 
 As was my custom, I closely questioned the men here whether in 
 their search for trees or in hunting, they had ever found ruins. They 
 declared unanimously that they had never seen a trace of ruins in the 
 neighboring forests. 
 
 Mr. Guillen arrived on the 31st of August, and all the details of our 
 projected expedition were discussed most thoroughly with him. As I was 
 fully prepared, we were able to leave Tinieblas on the next day (September 
 1st). Our saddle and pack animals were, of course, left behind. There 
 were six of us in all. We took with us only a small camera (9 X 12 cm.) and 
 the most necessary provisions. In addition we were all armed. 
 
 Following a forest path, we came once more to the camino de los Tzen- 
 dales and to the halting-place San Antonio, where a large galeron invited 
 repose ; but as this San Antonio is barely two leagues froui Tinieblas, we 
 continued our march and pitched our tent near a small brook about a 
 lea"-ue from El Espejito. On the road we met some men with a train of 
 mules coming from Tzendales. They were also carrying with them some 
 bound mozos, who had committed a horrible double murder at Tzendales. 
 
 At an early hour on September 2nd we reached the halting-place El 
 Espejito, about four leagues from San Antonio. Here we decided to aban- 
 don the road to Tzendales, and turning to the right, we pushed forward into 
 the forest in a southerly or southeasterly direction. Soon we had to ford 
 a not insignificant tributary of the Chocolha, and in doing so we took 
 advantage of the lime-rock formations of the river bed at this spot. A few 
 steps beyond we found to our great joy an Indian trail which led in 
 exactly the same direction which we had intended to take. Convinced 
 that this trail must lead somewhere, we followed it for two leagues over 
 hills and ravines, coming finally to a pass on the upper Chocolha (right 
 bank), where, from all appearances, the Lacantuns were accustomed to cross 
 the river. 
 
 At this spot the river, flowing over a great bed of liine rock, forms a 
 small waterfall only about one and one-half metres high. In the dry 
 season the Indians probably cross the river by walking on this ledge, but 
 at present the river was so high that such a proceeding was out of the 
 question. In the mean time we encamped on a terrace on the hither side, 
 erecting a small palmleaf hut for the night. Then we felled several small 
 trees of light wood, which we cut into six long pieces and fastened them 
 firmly togc-ther by means of tough vines, lejucos (climbing plants). 
 Having finished our small raft, we decided to attempt a crossing a little 
 below "the waterfall, at a place where the river forms large, deep pools. 
 
pethA. 
 
 25 
 
 One of my most skilful men, provided with a long pole and a large roll of 
 bojucos, boldly leaped on to the raft and safely reached the other bank. 
 The improvised bejuco rope was now firmly fastened to either shore. 
 
 I had bidden the man .search carefully on the opposite bank to see 
 whether the Indians had not concealed a small boat somewhere among the 
 trees projecting into the water. Hardly had he touched the opposite bank 
 when his joyful shout announced that he had found a fine new cayuco. He 
 unfastened the boat, got into it, and brought it to our bank, abandoning 
 the now useless raft to float down the river. 
 
 The cayuco had very recently been made from a caoha tree. We tied 
 it firmly to a tree, lest it should be torn away during the night by the 
 chance swelling of the stream. The finding of this cayuco was the second 
 piece of good fortune that befell us on our expedition to Petha. 
 
 There was now nothing fiu'ther to do, and we cooked a fine Crax rubra, 
 which we had killed on the way. It invariably rained at night. 
 
 On the morning of September 3d, after crossing and recros.sing the 
 river three times, the passage over the Chocolha was completed. The little 
 Indian boat was now fastened as securely as possible to the left bank, so 
 that it might serve us on our return. At a distance of only two hundred 
 paces from our crossing-place, we saw a well-built open champa, and 
 a smaller one near by for cooking. Several pottery cooking-utensils 
 lay around, and at a short distance we saw the clearing where the 
 caoba had been felled and the cayuco had been made. Numerous hunter's 
 trails ran in all directions from the hut, which was very confusing to us, 
 but, true to our purpose to move always in a southerly or southeasterly 
 direction, we chose the path which seemed to correspond best to that 
 direction. The sequel proved that we had made a wise choice. We 
 marched on uninterruptedly, crossing numerous brooks and also on the left 
 a large tributary of the Chocolha. The region became wilder and more 
 mountainous, but we followed the path closely uphill and downhill, though 
 it was often hardly discernible, convinced that it must lead somewhere. 
 Towards noon, as we were already very tired, we made a short halt for rest 
 and food. Then we pushed on again in spite of heavy showers of rain 
 which drenched us to the .skin. Finally we came to a small milpa estab- 
 lished in the midst of the forest. This was the first sign that we were near 
 an Indian settlement. The rain ceased. We proceeded cautiously. De- 
 scending the last declivity, suddenly a silvery expanse of water gleamed 
 between the dark branches of the trees. A few steps further down, the 
 path ended at the waters of the Lake of Petha. Where the path ended 
 three cayucos were fastened to the trees, and the oars belonging to them 
 were found hidden in the branches. This was the third piece of good luck 
 that had befallen us on our romantic expedition to Petha. Indeed, of what 
 advantage would it have been to us to have reached the lake without boats 
 
 MEM. PBARODY MDSEDM II. — 4 
 
26 
 
 KESEAECHES I>r THE USUIIATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 to navigate it! Fearing rain in the night, we went promptly to work to 
 erect a large champa close to the water, covering it as well as we could with 
 palinleaves and pieces of cloth. We also slung from tree to tree the 
 hammocks which we had brought with us, and soon in grateful repose 
 forgot the hardships of the day. 
 
 The distance from Chocolha to the northern border of the Lake of 
 Peth^ was probably only five or six leagues, but as the Indian trail was very 
 much overgrown, we had frequently to use our machetes to make our way 
 through. It was near the close of the day. All was in order. I revelled 
 in the enjoyment of the glorious panorama afforded by the lake, which here 
 forms a large almost circular basin more than two kilometres in diameter. 
 On the distant southern shore, opposite our camping-place, we saw quite 
 a large waterfall plunging into the lake, the sound of which reached us 
 from the distance. Low mountain ranges bordered the southern shore, 
 and in the background towered the mighty crests of the Sierra Madre 
 in what we supposed to be the direction of Ocotzinco. 
 
 Suddenly my men who were employed in cooking informed me that 
 a cayuco was passing near the distant southern shore. I attentively looked 
 in that direction, and just as the cayuco passed in front of the waterfall, I 
 distinctly saw its black silhouette with two men standing erect thrown into 
 bold relief against the white background. Soon after the cayuco vanished 
 into one of the coves in that vicinity, the position of which we impressed 
 upon our memories. This was our first sight of human beings, but the 
 Indians on their part had not noticed us. I had the two best cayucos 
 cleaned and all the seams very carefully calked with clay. The necessary 
 oars — caiialetes, as they are called here — were also made ready, and on 
 Sunday, September 4th, we rowed for the first time on the lake in our small 
 barks so fortunately acquired. There were only two men in each, while 
 two remained in the camp (Plate V, 1, 2). 
 
 However lazy and shiftless the men of Tenosique may be in other 
 respects, they display great aptitude on the water. It seems indeed as if 
 rowing were the only occupation which they do not object to, for they 
 perform all other labor with the greatest reluctance. 
 
 We crossed the lake in the direction of the waterfall, where we had 
 seen the small boat disappear (Plate V, 5). We found at the right of the 
 waterfall a small inlet hidden among the trees, to the bank of which several 
 cayucos were fastened. We secured our boats here and followed a rather 
 rocky trail inland. After travelling for about half an hour we came to a 
 large milpa in which bananas, papaijos, and sugar-cane were growing, in 
 addition to very tall maize. At the end of the milpa we saw a group of 
 houses, which we approached ; but no one came to meet us, and there was 
 no barking of dogs. The stillness of death prevailed on all sides. We 
 entered the houses. There were two large ones intended for the main 
 
pethA. 
 
 27 
 
 dwellings, which were surrounded by several small huts, which served for 
 kitchens, sleeping-rooms, and shelters for small domestic animals. All were 
 made entirely of poles roofed over with palmleaves. The two main houses 
 and the adjacent huts were filled with household implements of every 
 description, and gave a very complete idea of what the present Mnya- 
 Lacantun industry can produce in the way of articles for household use. 
 Such an opportunity of examining all at once the entire domestic estab- 
 lishuieut, even to the .slightest details, of this remarkable people, seemed 
 to me not likely to occur again. 
 I therefore at once set to work 
 to examine everything, even the 
 smallest object, directing my atr 
 tention particularly to finding 
 ritensils that should display draw- 
 ings which might be regarded as 
 writing, since my many friends 
 in Europe and America are espe- 
 cially interested in this particular 
 question. Many cooking-utensils 
 and water-jars, cazuelas y cunfaros, 
 lay scattered around on the floor 
 of the huts and also on the ground 
 outside. Everything was in great 
 disorder, as if the inhabitants had 
 
 suddenly forsaken their posse.ssions. The cooking-vessels and pots resembled 
 in shape those of the Indians of Yucatan and Tabasco, and were of dark 
 
 gray-brown clay. The water-jars, mntaros, 
 were of superior workmanship and were made 
 of lighter, whitish-gray clay, and, strange to 
 say, all were of the strongly bulging shape, 
 which is generally considered peculiar to 
 Spanish-African jars. Many had two handles 
 near the neck, but some had only one handle 
 and a small projecting animal head served 
 the purpose of the other. Aside from the 
 ^^S^^^ /^tV\lt*^ animal heads, none of this pottery had 
 V ^^ ^ any designs whatever. There was a large 
 
 grinding-stone, mclMl, on a platform which 
 riG, 6. — IxcisED Design upuiN , i i 
 
 Calabasu Deinking-vessel. I'ested on pegs, and several smaller ones 
 stood near by. Seieral large nets, which 
 were filled with calabaza bowls, xicaUi (Fig. 5), for drinking potzol and halche, 
 hung on the rafters of the main houses; some of the.sc were adorned with 
 pretty incised designs (Figs. 6, 7), but there was nothing of a hieroglyphic 
 
 -CaLAIIASH DRINKiNU-VESSEL. A. 
 
28 
 
 RESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 Fig. 7. — Incised Design upon 
 Calabash Brinking-vessel. 
 
 character. The smoke had colored these vessels a beautiful dark-brown. 
 From the rafters also hung bundles of tobacco leaves, which were most care- 
 fully wrapped in banana leaves. My men could not resist the temptation of 
 taking a few of these for their own use. Several bows and arrows and other 
 small trifles lay on the timbers at the base of the roof or hung on the ver- 
 tical poles of the walls, fn various gourds which I examined I found tree- 
 resin, wax, aromatic herbs, seed-corn, lime, 
 [jj points of flint for arrows, and even alligator 
 LJUj '' \ i_ teeth, which were probably intended for the 
 
 f|^l I lltC necklaces of the women, etc. Small spindles 
 
 rl(f '\ / / II with cotton threads, small wooden spoons, 
 
 tufts of feathers, and skulls of peccaries, deer, 
 and apes were also stuck between the poles. 
 There were even some billets of pitch-pine, 
 ocotl, which must have been brought from a 
 distance, for there are no pine-trees in the neighborhood of Petha. In 
 one of the small open huts hung a large gourd, which served for a bee- 
 liive. It had a small hole on one side through which the bees passed in 
 and out. My attention was attracted by some bird-cages, prettily plaited of 
 a fine kind of bejuco, pear-shaped and having little trap-doors, and also 
 by other baskets of simple but 
 pretty shape. Of the different 
 skins of small mammals, a yellow- 
 ish one with brown spots seemed 
 to me especially interesting, inas- 
 much as I had no knowledge of 
 the little creature to which it 
 belonged. Against the wall of 
 the largest hut there was a wide 
 board resting on pegs, which held 
 a dozen of those well-known in- 
 cense vessels each of which has 
 the face of a god in front (Fig. 8). 
 The majority of these were much 
 larger than those which I had 
 once found in the temples of 
 Taxchilan, but were less graceful and so completely covered with copal, 
 chapopotl, burned quite black, that their shape was hardly recognizable. 
 Knowing how unwilling the Lacantuns are that a stranger should approach 
 their gods, I improved this opportunity to take the incense vessels for a 
 moment out of the dark hut, and because they were so black, directly into 
 the simlight, in order to photograph them with my camera (Plate VI, 6) 
 before we should be surprised by Indians who might come this way. When 
 
 Fig. 8. — Incense ljui;Ni:u oe Tkkiia Cotta. 
 
pethA. 
 
 29 
 
 1 had photographed them, I quickly put the vessels back in their places. 
 Luxuriantly tall maize surrounded the huts, but there was a space left in 
 which bloomed the beautiful yellow Simpalmchitl and the Espuelas — red 
 dotted with white. Therd was also a little bed of Yerba iuena. 
 
 Having thoroughly explored the huts, we intended to continue our 
 journey in the hope of finding inliabited dwellings; but unfortunately the 
 paths branched off in such a manner and were so ill-defined that we were 
 puzzled which way to turn. We therefore decided to return to our camping- 
 place, but not without taking a small supply of young maize ears, elotl, 
 which, when boiled with salt, are an agreeable vegetable. As payment we 
 left a mirror and a red silk handkerchief by the incense vessels. And as we 
 crossed a large ant hill of yellow earth, I made several distinct impressions 
 upon it with my shoes, thinking that if the Indians should come this way 
 they would doubtless notice that strangers had been here and would wish to 
 have intercourse with them. Once more embarked in our frail crafts, we 
 visited the waterfall and slowly rowed past the small islands in this part 
 of the lake, to our camp, where those guarding it had in the mean time 
 somewhat improved the huts and cooked our evening meal. 
 
 On September 5th we undertook a thorough exploration of the lake in 
 all directions. This time taking the right hand, that is, following the northern 
 shore, we came to a canal overhung by trees, through which we pushed our 
 way as well as we could. It led to an extremely picturesque, large western 
 basin, a long narrow arm of which branches off in a northwesterly direction 
 (Plate V, 6). This part of the lake is also surrounded on all sides by moun- 
 tains. The most beautiful vegetation extends clo.se to the water's edge, 
 while in several places perpendicular cliffs rise to a height of twenty to 
 thirty metres (Plate V, 3). We rowed all round this extension, especially 
 examining the cliffs to see if they might not disjilay pictorial representa- 
 tions of some kind. The indigenous vegetation developed on these often 
 fantastically piled up rocks is of special interest. Many of the rarest 
 orchids, bromelia- and agave-varieties, which are seldom met with else- 
 where, were here just now at the height of their gorgeous bloom. After 
 the exploration of this extension, we passed back into the transverse arm, 
 which is also diversified by cliffs and islets, in order directly to enter a 
 larger western or southwestern extension, which we likewise explored to its 
 end. I had brought my little camera with me to take small views of the 
 most beautiful spots, although convinced that it is impossible for photog- 
 raphy alone to convey an adequate idea of the incomparable, ever-varying 
 beauty of these sheets of water set in vegetation untouched by the hand 
 of man. Small flocks of black aquatic birds, which my men called ciiervos 
 de offiia (water-ravens), were stirred up here and there by the approach of 
 our cayuco,s. Strange to say, we did not see a. single duck or other species of 
 water-fowl. Probably the birds stay away during the rainy season, because 
 
30 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 Fig. 9. — Lake Peth-^ : Rock Painting. 
 
 the lake ha.s no beach; but I think it probable that ducks, herons, and 
 pelicans frequent the lake in the dry sea,son when tlie water has fallen 
 perhaps full five metres and large portions of the shore are above water. 
 We found the water very deep everywhere, and therefore used only oars 
 and never poles. Returning from the southwest arm, we skirted the 
 
 southern shore and the inlets on that 
 side, and came to an exceedingly 
 beautiful soutliern pa.ssage, which 
 led back to the main or large eastern 
 basin. Along this passage — on our 
 left as we passed through — we 
 again saw great cliffs rising per- 
 pendicularly from the water. These 
 we also investigated in the hope of 
 finding pictorial representations,and 
 to our great joy we discovered three 
 separate large pictures. Tlie cen- 
 tral picture appeared to me to be 
 the most interesting and the best 
 preserved. At a height of one and 
 one-half metres above the surface 
 of the water (in September) a draw- 
 ing was visible executed in bold black lines, which I conceived to be the 
 representation of the jaws of a monster (the eye was especially distinct) 
 in the act of swallowing a man head foremost. 
 On the right (from the beholder) a smaller gro- 
 tesque face develops out of the upper scrollwork, 
 and on the left or at the back the head of the 
 monster terminates in plumage (Fig. 9). The 
 drawing is fifty-two centimetres high and fifty- 
 seven wide. About one metre above this picture 
 a diminutive man (about forty centimetres in 
 height) is very crudely painted, also in black. 
 Further up, a little to the right, are daubed large 
 red hands (Fig. 10). 
 
 At the right of the central picture, in spite 
 of the washing away by torrents of rain and the 
 luxuriant vegetation, three and one-half metres 
 above the surface of the water, we could discern 
 the picture of a yellowish foot on a red ground 
 (that is, a picture of the sole of the foot, with the 
 toes pointing upward), and above this in red outlines on a yellowish ground 
 an overturned pot (?) covered with red dots, from the lower edge of which 
 
 Fk;. 10. — Lake PktkA : 
 Rock Painting. I. 
 
pethX. 
 
 31 
 
 project four comblike droppings. This little picture inost resembles certain 
 perforated vessels in which the women wash the maize, which has been 
 soaked in lime water. There are several more red hands above the per- 
 forated pot and the foot at a distance of about seven metres above the 
 surface of the water. Is it possible that this picture on the rock indicates 
 the grave of a woman ? 
 
 This simple symbolic picture may be interpreted thus : The footprint 
 may indicate that the beloved woman has gone " upward." The over- 
 turned washing-pot probably shows that she never again will go to the 
 river to wash out her nixtamal (softened maize), to make tortillas for her 
 husband and children. . . . The red hands raised toward the sky may 
 indicate the last greetings of those she left mourning on earth, when she 
 ascended to celestial regions. 
 
 The representation at the left of the central picture is composed of 
 large, broad red stripes, which run high up on the cliff', mostly in vertical 
 lines and form large scrolls here and there. There are also two white 
 or light yello,w hands recognizable on a red ground, and adjoining this 
 there is also a series of black lines, which, however, have become very 
 indistinct. 
 
 After we had passed through the strait of the picture-rocks, with its 
 poetic beauty, we turned into a bay on the southern shore where a second 
 waterfall, shaded by tall trees, plunges foaming over the rocks into the lake. 
 Then — as night was already approaching — we crossed the large eastern 
 basin to our camp on the northeini shore, where in the mean time our meal 
 had been prepared, and we soon resigned ourselves to calm repose. The 
 fact that we had explored this glorious lake even to its remotest corner 
 without the aid of the Indians and without arousing the suspicion of these 
 people, usually so crafty, and that, in addition, we had made use of their 
 own cayucos, was a source of great astonishment to us. It seemed like a 
 dream ! 
 
 The entire length of the lake from the eastern margin of its large 
 round basin to the extreme end of its western ramifications we estimated at 
 six or seven kilometres. The diameter of the round basin, to which its 
 name Vet-h&j—Agua circular, refers, maybe two kilometres, while the width 
 of the western arms varies from two hundred to four hundred metres. We 
 found the water of such great depth everywhere that steamships could 
 easily sail on this lake, probably even in the dry season, when the water 
 doubtless falls about five metres. 
 
 In the forenoon of September 6th we went again to the Roea de las 
 Pinturas. I took some tracing paper with me in order to make a tracing of 
 the well-preserved black drawings. A large kommehen (wood-destroying 
 insect larvae) nest, which was attached to the cliff' below the drawing, we cut 
 to pieces with our machetes. Having thus cleared the drawing, I fastened 
 
32 RESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEV. 
 
 over it with small pieces of wax a large sheet of the transparent paper, and 
 standing on a projecting rock, as best I could, I proceeded to make the 
 tracing. Scarcely had I finished this somewhat trying task when my men 
 told ine that an Indian boat was coining toward us. I told the men to 
 quietly await its arrival. I should have preferred not to encounter the 
 Indians at the picture rooks, but there was not time to go elsewhere, and 
 therefore I seated myself on the projecting rock to wait for the cayuco, 
 which was not within my circle of vision. Suddenly the cayuco came 
 around the rooks, and our friendly calls soon brought it alongside of our own. 
 In it were a man, his wife, an infant, and two older children. Hardly had 
 the man noticed that I was .standing directly under the picture on the rock 
 than, exhibiting signs of extreme terror, he called out to me in broken 
 Spanish, " No hombre — quitate de ahi — es mi santo — es el Cristo- 
 Maria de nosotros — cuidado hombre — te come el tigre — vamonos hombre 
 — por eso mucha agua por el mal corazon de mi santo — por eso muy 
 crecidos los rios y la laguna — vamonos — vamonos." 
 
 I pacified the man as well as I could, assuring him that we too held 
 this " saint" in great veneration, and had brought him a small ofFering, so 
 that he would grant us fine weather and abundant maize. After this I 
 stepped into my cayuco, gave my hand to the man and asked him his name. 
 Cliankin, — chiclian, abbreviated chan (tsit'san, tsan) = small ; kin [IcHn] = sun, 
 priest, — he answered. Then I explained to him that we had come to see the 
 lake and to visit his countrymen who were living in its vicinity, and also 
 that we would like to purchase a few pretty things as well as food of them, 
 for which purpose we had brought witli us useful articles r knives, fish-hooks, 
 handkerchiefs, mirrors, and salt, of which they never have a sufficient 
 supply. On telling him that in our search for their dwellings we had come 
 across a large group of houses full of all kinds of utensils, but without 
 inmates, Chankin replied that the houses were those of his brother who had 
 died recently. And what did he die of? " Quien sabe, Seiior? — Por el 
 mal corazon de su santo," the man answered angrily. 
 
 Chankin, who had learned a little Spanish in his frequent intercourse 
 with the neighboring monterias, was a robust man in middle life, and was 
 dressed in a shirt-like garment of coarse cotton. Long raven-black hair 
 sruTOunded his beardless face, which was of a genuine Indian cast. His 
 wife was of smaller frame, and was also dressed in cotton ; her face and arms 
 were badly bitten by flies. A fine set of bow and arrows wrapped in bark 
 lay on the bottom of the cayuco. I asked the Indian to sell them to me, 
 which he did for two pesos. 
 
 We rowed now to the landing-place on the south shore, where we 
 fastened the boats. I was firmly resolved not to lose sight of the man at 
 any price, for otherwise we might forever miss the opportunity of coming 
 in contact with the Indian settlements of Pethil. 
 
PETHi. 
 
 33 
 
 Chankin first took a path to the large waterfall. The river, which was 
 very full at this season, rushed with tremendous force downward over ter- 
 raced rocks into the lake. Our Indian took his way unconcernedly through 
 the midst of this mass of water. I had had a stout walking-stick cut for 
 myself, and there was nothing for mo to do but to follow the man or to stay 
 behind. Bracing myself firmly with my staff against the rocks, I too walked 
 through the waterfiiU in extreme danger of being hurled into the foaming 
 depths by the impetus of the rushing water. Taking off their shoes, three of 
 my men followed very reluctantly. We then went on over desperately rough 
 trails, soon reaching the same river (as I have reason to suppose) at a spot 
 where it was spanned by the long and' thick trunk of a tree, which at this time 
 was about eighty centimetres below the surface of the water. At this place 
 the river was several metres deep and impassable; so our Indian went 
 straight over the smooth tree-trunk, in doing which the prehensile power 
 of his toes was of great advantage to him. By the aid of a long pole in 
 one hand and a shorter staff in the other, I succeeded with extreme 
 diflSculty in crossing. My men also made their way across by the aid of 
 poles. Soon we had to cross the river for a third time, and again on the 
 long and thick trunk of a tree, which this time, by way of variety, was 
 suspended high above the water. We also successfully passed through this 
 third and last Orphean ordeal to which Chankin subjected us. 
 
 On our way, however, between the first and second tree-bridges, we 
 had caught glimpses among the trees on our right of "the dead brother's" 
 large milpa, and I told my grumbling men that we should under no con- 
 ditions go back over the frightful path by which Chankin had brought us, 
 but that on our return we would clear a path to this milpa and then return 
 to our landing-place by the trail we already knew. 
 
 After crossing the river for the third time, the path improved. We 
 might have travelled about an hour, when we heard the barking of dogs 
 and the hollow sound of conch-shells, Strombus gigas, with which the 
 Indians greeted our arrival. The forest opened. We entered a milpa of 
 tall and luxuriant maize, and from its group of huts Chankin's brother-in- 
 law, el suegro, named Max (mas) came to meet us surrounded by other 
 Indians, including women and children. I saluted Max, and explained 
 my purpose in coming, while Chankin reported to him in Maya all the cir- 
 cumstances under which he had found us, so that I had no doubt that 
 Chankin had been despatched to reconnoitre, purposely taking with him his 
 wife and little children to cover his intentions. 
 
 Max was not at all overjoyed at our arrival, but resigned himself to the 
 inevitable. He promised us provisions — maize bread, potsol, md,xcal, etc. — - 
 for the next day, when I was to visit him again with my men. For the 
 present I found rayself compelled to return as quickly as possible to the 
 camp, as the day was near its end and we were threatened with a down- 
 
 MKM. PEAliOUV MDSEL'M 11. — 5 
 
34 
 
 EESEABCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 pour of rain. We therefore took our leave, and lost no time in reaching 
 the nearest tree-bridge. We notched the slippery surface of the trunlc 
 with our machetes, so that this passage lost much of its peril. Then after 
 reaching the point which brought us in line with the dead brother's milpa, 
 we cut our way directly through the forest and without much difficulty 
 reached the abandoned group of huts. Before we continued our journey, 
 however, I permitted my men to take an abundant supply of ears of maize, 
 bananas, and sugar-cane to punish the fellow who had dragged us over 
 waterfalls and tree-trunks to his suegro. 
 
 Amid a light shower of rain we reached the landing-place. The last 
 rays of the sun disappearing behind the mountains lighted us as we rowed 
 over the mirror-like surface of the beautiful lake to our camp, where 
 those who had been left behind had spent the day not without anxiety 
 on our account. Of course my companions never wearied of recounting to 
 their comrades all the experiences of this day. Each one considered him- 
 self a hero. 
 
 On the next day (September 7th), leaving but a single man to guard 
 the camp, we all crossed the lake to visit Mitx and his associates. We 
 intended to take our noon meal there, in order to have leisure to observe 
 the habits and customs of the Indians and to take some small photo- 
 graphs. After crossing the tree bridge we succeeded in killing a black 
 crax. 
 
 As we neared the huts we heard the hollow, somewhat weird sound of 
 the conch-sholls with which Max and his associates celebrated our coming. 
 I greeted Max and the assembled Indians cordially, explaining to them that 
 we would like to spend the day with them, and as we had shot a kanihul, 
 would they lend us a vessel in which to cook it ? Upon this one of 
 the women brought us a large pot, and my men began to prepare the 
 bird. 
 
 Tlien I told the Indians that I had brought them a few presents, 
 articles which might be useful to them in their remote forests, and I at 
 once proceeded to distribute the salt among the men who were present. 
 Each one received a gourd-bowl full. I also gave each man a large knife 
 and several kinds of fish-hooks. As for the women and girls, they received 
 gay silk and cotton kerchiefs, as well as silver ear-pendants and pretty 
 mirrors. 
 
 Although this people, so simple in its wants, is incapable of genuine joy, 
 a certain feeling of general satisfaction, nevertheless, became evident among 
 them. Meanwhile I had set up the small camera in order to take a few 
 photographs before this pleasant mood should vanish. As my brightly 
 varnished camera with its brass mountings was a pretty sight when set up 
 on its slender tripod, the people were not at all frightened by this magic 
 box. I succeeded in taking several photographs, which in spite of their 
 
pethX. 
 
 35 
 
 small size (9 X 12 cm.) give a distinct picture of the features and dress of 
 the men, women, and cliildren (Plate VI, 3, 4, 5). 
 
 The men wear an ample shirt-like garment, of strong, somewhat coarse 
 cotton material, which reaches down to the calves of their legs ; but on 
 tlieir hunting- expeditions or on journeys they wear a garment of extra- 
 coarse fleecy material. The women wear an undergarment wliich reaches 
 from the hips down over the calves of their legs, and tlie shirt-like upper 
 garment falls over this. Bach woman i.s adorned with a thick buncli of 
 necklaces or rather strings of seeds. They are made of hard, usually black, 
 seeds mixed with cylindrical bones, teeth, small snail-shelLs, or whatever else 
 they can obtain. 
 
 The uncut hair of the men falls about their faces, which sometimes gives 
 them a wild and leonine aspect. The women part their hair in the middle, 
 exactly like European women, and at tlie end of the braid they fasten a 
 tuft of gay bird-featliers, wings, and breasts. All the women have their 
 ear-lobes pierced ; so they could deliglitedly insert tlie ear-rings (of Engli.sh 
 manufacture) themselves or confidingly allow me to insert them. Neither 
 men nor women seemed to wear shoes of any kind. 
 
 Max's premises consisted of a large main hut, where he lived with his 
 wives and children. This was surrounded by four smaller, half-open huts, 
 some intended for cooking, and some for the accommodation of guests, and 
 one was devoted exclusively to the incense vessels with faces of gods. 
 
 Here also was an abundance of cooking-vessels and implements of every 
 sort, and the inmates had hammocks made of agave cord for sleeping at 
 night and also for resting by day. The hammocks of the Lacantuns are 
 very different from those which are used elsewhere in Mexico. They do 
 not consist of raesh-work, but a system of cross cords holds the lengthwise 
 cords together. They are also shorter than the Mexican ones, but are 
 broad enough. The people do not make their things for sale, but only for 
 their own use, so that it was utterly impossible for me to obtain one of their 
 very prettily made hammocks. 
 
 The wooden implement with which the women weave the cotton cloth, 
 la mania, is also interesting. An old woman was at work on a piece of 
 material, and I wanted to buy the implement together with the partly 
 finished web, but she obstinately refused to sell it. The women, however, 
 gave me some of their seed necklaces as mementos, and I requested the 
 men to bring a few of tlieir beautifully made bows and arrows to my 
 camp, promising to pay well for them. 
 
 The bows (Fig. 11) are usually made oi guaijacan, or X}hi, or else of 
 chicosapote. The length of the men's bows varies from one hundred and 
 fifty to one hundred and seventy centimetres, that of the larger boys from 
 one hundred and twenty-five to one hundred and thirty-five centimetres. 
 All the bows are thicker towards the middle and taper very much toward 
 
lllifliiiiiiiiiiifiliiiiiii 
 
 36 
 
 EESEAECHES IN" THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 o 
 
 the ends. Each end is firmly wound with a small cord, which is 
 covered with resin, but the horns themselves are left free to receive 
 the end loops of the bow-string, which is made of an agave cord, tlie 
 windings of the small cord preventing the string from slipping when 
 the bow is drawn. The bows are apparently straiglit, but on closer 
 examination they are found to be very slightly curved. In using 
 one of these bows, the rule must be followed of drawing the bow 
 not — as one would be inclined to do — in the di- 
 rection of the curve, in which case it would very 
 easily break, but always in the opposite direction, 
 that is to say, on the side of the outwai'd curve 
 (convex side). The Indians usually hold the bow 
 horizontally before shooting, and only at the mo- 
 ment of aiming and of shooting is it placed in a 
 perpendicular position. The arrows are only a lit- 
 tle shorter than the bow. They are of different 
 kinds, according to the game to be shot, but all, 
 excepting the bird bolts, have this in common : the 
 forward part, corresponding to about a third of the 
 length of the arrow, consists of a cylindrical or a 
 square rod of hard wood, which is deeply inserted 
 in the reed shaft, carrizo or mna hrava, and firmly 
 lashed at the place of insertion and also at the 
 invisible lower end. The reed shaft, which forms 
 two-thirds of the length of the arrow, has at its 
 butt the notch for receiving the string, and on both 
 sides of the notch there is a feather, which is firmly 
 bound at its upper and lower ends to the shaft, with 
 twine smeared with black resin. If too broad, the 
 feathers are cut out about the centre. The little 
 hard-wood rods simply end in sharp points, which 
 suffice for killing fish and small birds, or else flint- 
 heads, varying in size, are inserted, and these are 
 also firmly lashed at the place of insertion with 
 cords covered as usual with black gum. The 
 arrows, which are intended for killing monkeys, 
 have the forward piece of hard wood deeply 
 barbed, so that the animal cannot shake off or 
 pull out the arrow. Lastly, the arrows which are 
 
 ' intended to stun a bird only for the time being, so 
 1-iG. 11. Bow AND Arrows, . .. , i i i i-i^i i 
 
 Lacantun Indians t"^* "® caught unhurt, liave a little conical 
 
 n, bow; 6, bird bolt: o, wooden- piecc of wood lu placc of a flint head. 
 
 pointed arrow for siuall game ; «, ^ ^ 
 
 p'rn?effr'rotte^l?ge'^°Si''r"" ^he bow is bouud Up with the arrows, and the 
 
1'EthA. 
 
 37 
 
 bundle is protected by a covering of bark (majafaia, as it is called in Tabasco) 
 which is usually stripped from young ceiba-trees. The art of cleaving flint 
 into thin layers has been preserved up to the present day by this secluded 
 little nation. It appears that in some cases the cleaving is facilitated by 
 previously heating the stone red-hot, but this is not always done. The 
 cleaving is effected by means of a piece of deer-horn, especially prepared for 
 this purpose, and by means of this elastic medium the blow of the mallet is 
 
 1-2. Package of Flint Flakes, fkom which Aiirow-points are made. 
 
 transferred to the edge of the stone. The layers thus obtained (Figs. 12, 13) 
 then receive the desired shape and an edge (Fig. 14), by means of a piece 
 of an old knife (now made of iron). Inasmuch as the Indians also find 
 many discarded bottles in the 
 abandoned monterias, they use 
 the glass of these bottles in 
 place of flint. They make the 
 arrow-points of this broken glass, 
 which does not admit of cleaving. 
 
 There were only a few do- 
 mestic animals to be seen on 
 Max's premises. The only mam- 
 mals were dogs, which are always 
 tied up, and belong to the present 
 modern breed. Among the birds 
 I noticed the large green parrots 
 with blue heads, which occur ex- 
 clusively in these forests. They 
 
 are therefore called los Im-os de los Laaindcmes or loros paleiicanos. There 
 were also several specimens of a beautiful small Coturnix species, called 
 bolomhac, confined in small bejuco cages. 
 
 It is hardly to be expected that a remnant of those ancient breeds 
 of dogs — Techichi, XohUscidntlL Itscuintepotsotli — should still be preserved 
 among the Lacantuns. All the lumbermen who had come in contact 
 with these Indians had seen only dogs of the same breed as those found 
 everywhere in Mexico. 
 
 Fig. 13. — Flint Flakes for Chipping into 
 Arrow-points. |. 
 
38 
 
 EESEABCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 Hoping to throw light upon the still more important question as 
 to the kind of pictorial representations still made by these Indians and 
 whether they are of a hieroglyphic character, I looked about me very 
 carefully in Max's huts, but of course without exciting the suspicion of the 
 people. 1 regret to say that nothing bearing upon this matter could be 
 found. The fact that the Indiana of Petha live so scattered that each 
 family is about one league (or an hour's journey) from the other adds 
 much to the difficulty of solving this question. It would be necessary 
 to ascertain whether these people are anywhere 
 grouped in villages, for in that case there would 
 be more prospect of obtaining specimens of 
 drawings. 
 
 In the mean time my men had deliciously 
 prepared the crax, and the women supplied us 
 with the necessary tortillas, which, made of new 
 
 ^ ^ , maize and half roasted, were especially palatable. 
 
 Fig. 14. — Flint Arrow-point, . r ./ r 
 
 Lacanthn Indian.?. |. "'y special request, which I had also made on 
 
 the preceding evening, they brought us large 
 gourds full of balche (6£i?/*c), a refreshing beverage made from the bark of 
 a tree. 
 
 While we were satisfying our hunger with this food and drinking 
 with it the national drink, balclie, the men, having adorned their heads 
 with bands dyed pink with chacavante, withdrew into the huts containing 
 the incense-vessels, to pray. The prayer consisted of monotonous, unintel- 
 ligible cries, its purpose doubtless being to entreat tlie gods not to regard 
 with anger the reception of strangers, and to avert any evil consequences 
 that might arise from our visit. The women took no part in this religious 
 ceremony. 
 
 At last the time came for us to depart, and we accordingly took leave 
 of Max and the other Indians. Before doing so, however, I administered 
 to a young girl very ill with fever a small dose of quinine, which she took 
 tearfully. To an older woman covered with ulcers (elephantiasis?) we 
 could only reconunend a draught which she could make herself of the 
 .sarsaparilla occurring in that region. With these exceptions the people 
 were all in good health. 
 
 We remained four days more (September 8th, 9th, 10th, and llth) on 
 the shore of that beautiful lake, over whose waters we never grew weary 
 of rowing. The Indians made us several visits, bringing us food and en- 
 abling us to buy of them several additional sets of their handsome bows 
 and arrows. 
 
 Max, whose name means "howling-monkey" [Stentor niger), was not a 
 frank, kindly-disposed man. He very evidently exercised a certain repress- 
 ing influence over the others, who showed much greater openness in their 
 
PETHA. 
 
 39 
 
 intercourse with us when Max was not present, and willingly gave me all 
 the information I desired. 
 
 I questioned the people very closely as to whether they knew of any 
 ruins in the forests of this region. Unfortunately, absolute ignorance 
 seemed to prevail among them in regard to the matter. Indeed, I had 
 already convinced mj'self of the fact tliat cities built of stone had never 
 existed in the neighborhood of Petha. I only learned that at no great 
 distance there were other smaller lakes: Hopethi to the southeast; the 
 lake called Sib to the southwest, and between Petha and Tinieblas another 
 called Chichan-petlia, or "little round water." 
 
 To my que.stiou as to how many kinds of fish were to be found in 
 the lake of Petha, they answered five, — 
 
 1. Lii = el pezcado bobo, bagre. 
 
 2. Soh6m = una especia de mojarra. 
 
 3. Sactan = "sardina " (sactan= white-colored). 
 
 4. Chaclau = mulula of the Spaniards (chacil-au ? [tsakil-au ?] = with 
 red dots, or red collar). 
 
 5. Dsibal, said to be quite a large fi.sh (dsibal means ''marking"). 
 During the last days of our stay Heaven favored us with the most 
 
 glorious weather. On the 12th of September we began our return march, 
 without however taking leave of our Lacantun friends, since they had 
 expressed their intention of accompanying us as far as Tiniebla.s. Arrived 
 at the Paso del Chocolha, we made ourselves comfortable in tlie large 
 champa belonging to the Indians, who likewise arrived toward even- 
 ing. We had killed another crax, and the Indians immediately after 
 their arrival had very dexterously caught some fish, so that we had 
 plenty of food. In addition, Max had made me a present of a gourd full 
 of honey. 
 
 One of the Indians, wliile he was cooking the fish, became confidential 
 and said to me in broken Maya-Spanish : " I am sorry that you did not 
 come also to uiy house — that you only went to see Max, where I could not 
 serve you. I too have maize at my house — you should have wanted for 
 nothing at my house. Now that your heart is friendly towards me, I will 
 tell you — that I also have a wife. Since you gave pretty ear-rings 
 to all the women, but not to my wife — because she was not there — 
 I will now ask you to give me a pair of ear-rings for my wife — that her 
 heart may be made glad ! " 
 
 I was very glad to learn, in this way, that the things I had given 
 the people had evidently pleased them. Of course I picked out a pretty 
 pair of ear-rings from what was left, and added a red silk handkerchief 
 to make glad the wife of so excellent a husband. 
 
 There was a tremendously heavy fall of rain during the night, but > 
 early in the morning we succeeded in crossing the Chocolha by means 
 
40 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 of the cayuco. Allowing ourselves but little time for rest, in spite of 
 the soaked condition of the trails, we arrived late in the afternoon at 
 Tinieblas, where the people regarded lis witli great respect and thought 
 it wonderful that we, coming from a. distance in tlie middle of the rainy 
 season, had found the lake which they had never even seen. 
 
 The Indians made various purchases in the inonteria, and the very 
 next day returned to their wilderness. We rested a day, and then set 
 out on our return to La Eeforma, where, when at last we arrived, we 
 were, as always, most courteously received by Mr. Molina and the other 
 gentlemen. 
 
 Here I dismissed my men from Tenosique, who had shown discontent 
 during the whole expedition, and accepted Mr. Molina's kind invitation 
 to go down the Chacaniax in one of the cayucos of the firm of Eomano, 
 as far as the Usumatsintla and to Montecristo, lying just below the con- 
 fluence of the two rivers. Thence the return by steamer to my little 
 house at our station in Tenosique offered no further difficulties. 
 
 VI. 
 
 PIEDRAS NEGEAS.* 
 
 After I had traversed the entire peninsula of Yucatan in 1895 and 
 had rested in Flores — the ancient Peten-Itza — I took tlie route to tlie 
 upper Usumatsintla by way of Sacluc, in order to return to Merida by 
 water via Tenosique and Carmen. Accordingly I came down from El 
 Paso Real in a cayuco as far as the ruins of Yaxchilan, but from tliat point, 
 owing to dangerous rapids, I was obliged once more to make use of 
 forest trails in order to reacli Tenosique, whence the journey to the sea 
 was easily accomplished. 
 
 On the way, while spending the night at the monteria El Cayo (on 
 the left shore of tlie Usumatsintla) I made inquiries of the Encargado, 
 Don Transito Mejenes, and of his people as to whether ruins of any 
 kind whatever had been met with in the forests of this region, and I 
 was successful in gaining information regarding the sites of several I'uined 
 cities, of which Piedras Negras proved to be the most important. 
 
 Tlie distance from El Cayo to Tenosique is reckoned at twenty Mexican 
 leagues. The first five bring one to the site of the ruins, where, until 
 recently, tliere had been a monteria under the management of Sr. D. 
 Emiliano Palma, who by this time, however, had gone deeper into the 
 forest with liis men. 
 
 * Por plan of the ruins sec Plate XXXIII. 
 
PIEDEAS NEGKAS. 
 
 41 
 
 As it is impossible to undertake any serious explorations without 
 having previously engaged some men and procured the necessary pro- 
 visions, I contented myself for the time being with the information I 
 had gathered, and passed by the ruins without inspecting them, fully 
 determined to organize an expedition thither, as soon as I arrived in 
 Tenosique. 
 
 On the 23d of July, 1895, I reached Tenosique in safety, and could 
 then say that the most difficult part of my great journey of exploration 
 had been overcome. I succeeded in coming to an agreement with a 
 certain Luciano Sanchez, who was the owner of pack-animals and had 
 several men at his disposal. He expressed his willingness to accompany 
 me with three men and the necessary animals. I was to pay one peso 
 a day for each man and each beast and to maintain them. Owing to 
 the wood-cutting establishments in the neighborhood, which absorb all 
 the available men, wages are very high in Tenosique. But as Sanchez 
 and his men showed a willing disposition and behaved well, I did not 
 regret paying them high wages. On tiie 12th of August our arrangements 
 were completed and we left Tenosique. 
 
 For about two leagues our way led us through saviinas adorned with 
 numerous nantsin-trees, which were just unfolding the splendor of their 
 yellow blossoms. This meadow-land comes to an end not far from the 
 little river Poleva, which, in spite of its apparent insignificance, is regarded 
 with much apprehension, because it often rises suddenly to such a 
 height that it can be crossed only with great difficulty, or not at all. 
 Afterward the trail runs mostly over low mountain ranges, where it is 
 shaded by high forest-trees and is at times very difficult. On the first 
 day we reached the station Los Callejones, that is, " the place of the 
 wood-roads," where we spent the night. 
 
 On the second day we proceeded as far as the Tres Chainpas, " the 
 place of the three leaf huts," — chican, c/«ra= little; ^ja = shelter; champa 
 (tsampa) = little shelter, leaf huts. The huts of the raonteria, once estab- 
 lished here and long since abandoned, have entirely disappeared; but an 
 open hut still stands on the bank of the brook and affords some shelter 
 to the traveller. 
 
 Soon after we had left Los Callejones and had ascended the hills, we 
 saw a little lake on the right, far below us in a hollow, surrounded by walls 
 of rock. The view of these cliffs, crowned by towering trees, with the 
 water far below at their feet, is very impressive. This spot of natural 
 beauty has no name, but in Itfexico formations of this kind are called in 
 general hollos, and I therefore called this particular spot ^/ Sollo. 
 
 Some time later, about three leagues beyond Tres Cliampas, we found 
 an obelisk set up to mark the boundary, bearing the name MEXICO on one 
 side and GUATEMALA on the other, which will in future put an end 
 
 MEJI. PEABODY MLtseu^I II. — 6 
 
42 EESEAECHES IS" THE USUMATSISTLA VALLEY. 
 
 to all doubts as to ownership in that part of the country. According to the 
 latest disposition, therefore, Piedras Negras, which lies on the right bank 
 of the Usumatsintla, belongs to Guatemala. The Mexican wood-cutting 
 establishments still in this neighborhood will naturally all have to be 
 removed. 
 
 On the third day we arrived safely at the site of the ruined city, the 
 distance of whicli from Tenosique I estimated at about fifteen leagues. 
 
 The road from Tenosique to El Cayo runs by the ruined city and ends 
 in a little open place, in which stands a great ceiba-tree. This place is 
 bounded on the west side by rocky cliffs in which are several caves afford- 
 ing shelter to the wanderer. Trom this place, which I called La Plazuela 
 
 de las Ciievas, a ravine, running 
 transversely througli the cliffs, 
 leads to the Usumatsintla near 
 by. On the heights to the right, 
 and also below in the transverse 
 valley, lay the huts of a wood- 
 cutting establishment only re- 
 cently abandoned and still in good 
 condition. La Ca.sa Principal, on 
 an eminence near tlje river, was 
 naturally the largest, and in it we 
 comfortably established ourselves. 
 
 There, where the transverse 
 valley opens towards the river, 
 splendid sandbanks witli blackish 
 limestone rocks rising out of them 
 invited ns to bathe. The people 
 of that region have named the 
 place Piedras Negras after these 
 rocks (Plate VII, 1). 
 
 One of these rocks, rising ob- 
 liquely and pointed at the top, 
 Fig. 1.5. -La Roca df. los Saoeikicios. is especially noticeable, because 
 
 there is carved upon its steeply 
 inclined surface a circular design (Fig. 15) which resembles that upon the 
 great sacrificial table (Fig. 19) on the esplanade before the temple of the 
 eight steliE. This fact seems to justify the surmise that on the rock in 
 question were performed the sacrifices intended to appease the water 
 deities; the blood of the victims trickling from the rock and mingling with 
 the waters of the river. I called this rock La Roca de los Sacrificios. 
 
 Toward the end of the rainy season (October, November), however, 
 the river ri.ses at that point to the height of ten to fifteen metres, and all 
 
PIEDEAS NEGEAS. 43 
 
 the sandbanks and rocks are entirely under water. Fortunately this was 
 not the case when I encamped among the ruins. I was therefore able to 
 take an excellent photograph of the place and to make a drawing of the 
 sacrificial stone, whose design in low relief is very much worn away 
 Enongh is left, however, to show two personages crouching opposite each 
 other within a circle which is surrounded by a concentric band of glyphs. 
 Only the spnces which contained the glyphs Eire still recoo'nizable in out*- 
 line ; the glyphs themselves have quite disappeared. The diameter of the 
 entire circular design is 166 cm. 
 
 From the sacrificial rock the ruined city extends two kilometres down 
 stream (along the right bank). The transverse valley with its surrounding 
 heights may be regarded as its southwestern, and the range of hills on 
 which lies the upper city, or acropolis, as the northwestern boundary. 
 
 Some wood-cutters stated that in a direction up stream from the 
 picture-rock there were more ruins, but T did not succeed in findino- them. 
 I thoroughly explored the 
 chain of mountains above 
 the rocks with the caves, but 
 I found only remnants of 
 terracing in the immediate 
 vicinity of the caves. There- 
 fore any other ruins could 
 lie only between the moun- 
 tain chain and the river. 
 
 Passing the caves and 
 following the road to El 
 Cayo for about half a kilo- 
 metre, I turned to the left and discovered on a rock wall, about four 
 metres above the level ground, a second piece of sculpture (Fig. 16), which 
 was much worn. However I think I recognized a large hieroglyph in the 
 middle, separated by an ornamental flourish on the right and°on the left 
 from two heads in profile. The head on the right (from the spectator) is 
 still fairly well preserved ; the one on the left has entirely scaled off. Tlie 
 height of the design is about one metre, the total length about two and 
 a half metres. 
 
 We turned our attention chiefly to the acropolis, because the wood- 
 cutters asserted that they had found large figures — d rei/, la ' reina — 
 in its vicinity. 
 
 The whole distance from the hills which slope down to the transverse 
 valley as far as the acropolis is thickly strewn with the remains of old build- 
 ings which have succumbed to the weight of an overpowering vegetation. 
 
 Without stopping to examine these numerous heaps of ruins, we 
 arrived at the lower steps of a monumental stairway on the southeastern 
 
 Fig. 1G. — Scui.ptl'ke upon Hock Wall. 
 
44 
 
 EESEAKCHES IN THE USUMATSIKTLA VALLEY. 
 
 slope of the acropolis. The stairway is ten metres wide and has only five 
 steps, each one about 40 cm. in height. On either side of the stairway 
 is an abutting vertical wall about five metres in length, faced with large 
 stone slabs. At each wing these walls are continued by somewhat receding 
 walls of common hewn blocks of smaller size, which form the retaining 
 wall of the first terrace (Fig. 17). 
 
 From the platform of the stone stairway the second terrace is reached, 
 whose right and left wings extend in the same manner as those of the first. 
 But while the right wing of the terrace is quite empty, the left wing was 
 formerly adorned with eight large stelae, which now lie in confusion and for 
 the most part broken in pieces upon the ground. 
 
 Southemtem Bide of lliu toot of liill or chain of Mils wlilol, la covered by tlie Acropolis. 
 
 I 
 
 Fig. 17. — Pikdkas Negras : Plan of the Terrace of the Eight Stel.e. 
 
 In order to give a correct idea of the whole, I ought to state that on 
 the right wing there must once have stood a lesser temple of inferior 
 height, which is now wholly demolished, while on the left wing stood a large 
 temple whose enormous pyramidal substructure with its numerous steps 
 seems to form a part of the mountain against which it rests. Let me also 
 add that the remaining terraces lead up to the acropolis by means of a 
 saddle-shaped elevation between the two temple sites, in a line with the 
 centre of the stone stairway, and that the upper terraces of the principal 
 temple can be reached from the saddle by lateral ascents, not by centrally 
 placed stairways, as is usually the case. 
 
 I searched the steps and the masses of ruins of the upper terraces to 
 find out whether the lintels of the now ruined temple facade which had 
 faced southeast, were ornamented with sculptures or not, for I had deter- 
 mined to dig them up if I could find the places where the entrances had 
 been. 
 
PIEDEAS NEGEAS. 
 
 45 
 
 PlEDRAS NeGRAS; TeRKACE OF 
 
 THE Eight Stel.e. 
 Ci'oss-sectioii a-b. 
 
 Unfortunately the confusion on the top platform was so great that it 
 was impossible to determine which of the remnants of partially well-pre- 
 served masonry had belonged to the walls of the temple or had merely been 
 part of the retaining walls of the steps of the pyramid. I was therefore 
 unable to find the places where the 
 entrances had been, but I concluded 
 that the temple must have had a prin- 
 cipal chamber in front and some smaller 
 ones in the rear. I could not deter- 
 mine whether or not there had been 
 chambers abutting against the main 
 
 Fig 
 
 body of the whole structure ranged 
 along the last terrace but one. Con- 
 vinced that nothing short of an excava- 
 tion on a very large scale would enable me to find the lintels, I was forced 
 to confine myself to tlie clearing out of the eight stelse on the second terrace 
 from the bottom, and of the great round altar on the level ground in front 
 of the temple. 
 
 Unfortunately this circular sacrificial table (No. 1) has been broken 
 in two, probably by a falling tree, and the elaborate ba.s-relief on the 
 
 upper surface is almost wholly 
 destroyed by centuries of rain. It 
 is now possible only to recognize 
 two personages sitting opposite 
 one another within the inner cir- 
 cle, surrounded by a concentric 
 double band of glyphs (Fig. 19). 
 The diameter of the circular stone 
 .slab is 213 cm. Its thickness is 
 •35 cm., and the cylindrical outer 
 edge is ornamented with a double 
 row of glyphs. These glyphs, being 
 less exposed to the action of the 
 rain, are still in a tolerable state of 
 preservation. 
 
 Three square pillars, each hav- 
 ing ten glyphs on its front face, 
 support the sacrificial stone. I pho- 
 tographed this circular altar after having had it cleaned (Plate VIII). 
 
 It took a whole week of hard work to prepare for photograpliing these 
 stelse, which probably marked the graves of persons of rank and also 
 represented the principal divinities. Each stone was carefully excavated 
 and set up on one of its narrow side faces by means of a windlass we had 
 
 - Design ui-on Upper Surface of 
 Altar 1. 
 
46 
 
 RESEARCHES IX THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 borrowed from a neighboring monteria, and then waslied and brushed off 
 in order to secure as good a picture as possible, after felling some trees 
 which excluded the sunlight. Most of the stelaj had sculpture on the two 
 broad faces and inscriptions on the narrow side faces. The face which had 
 lain next to the ground was generally well preserved, while the upturned 
 face was mostly destroyed. 
 
 Stela 1 (Plate XII). The whole height of this stone (now broken in 
 two) is 425 cm., one metre of which was under ground. Its breadth is 
 136 cm. ; thickness, 45 cm. 
 
 The sculpture on the front is wholly destroyed ; that on the back, 
 representing Ketsalkoatl, is very well preserved. Each narrow side face 
 has a double row of glyphs, which have become quite indistinct. 
 
 The preserved relief represents the front view of a male figure, with 
 an oval beardless face carved in very high relief. Upon the brow is placed 
 the serpent's head, the upper row of teeth forming a diadem. Above the 
 serpent's head is the turban, from the centre of which rises the ornamented 
 feather-holder, and the plumes of feathers proceeding from it fall to the 
 right and left. The god is clothed in a tunic reaching to his feet, orna- 
 mented with delicately incised Maltese crosses, and finished at the neck by 
 a cape of scales. In his right hand the god holds feathers, and his left lies 
 on the medallion of the cape. 
 
 The upper part of the relief consists of three horizontal rows of glyphs : 
 3 X /■ = 21. Along the edges a row of glyphs reached down to each shoul- 
 der : 8 + 10, one glyph in each row being wholly destroyed, owing to the 
 fracture of the stone, while all the rest are in an excellent state of preserva- 
 tion, — tliirty-nine glj'phs in all, two of which are destroyed. A small 
 glyph also occurs at the base of the feather-holder. 
 
 Rerauauts of color were still visible, as follows : face, arms and gar- 
 ment, bright red ; background, dark red ; edge of garment, blue ; breast- 
 cape, blue ; feathers, always green. 
 
 Stela 2 (Plate XV, 1). Broken in three pieces. Whole height of 
 the fragments when joined together was 273 cm., of wliicli 63 cm. were 
 sunk in the ground, and 195 cm. were covered with sculpture. Width, 
 68 cui. ; thickness, 43-45 cm. 
 
 The figure, probably of a god, on one of the broad faces, is wholly 
 destroyed ; that, presumably of a man, on the other is pretty well pre- 
 served. One of the narrow side faces has an upright figure in bas-relief, and 
 the other has an inscription in two perpendicular rows. The side faces have 
 both become quite indistinct. Though the well-preserved figure presents 
 very nearly a front view, the face, now crumbled away, is quite in profile. 
 In his right hand the personage represented holds a kind of chain, in his 
 left an ornamental pouch. On the riglit shoulder there is a grotesque face. 
 
PIEDEAS NEQEAS. 
 
 47 
 
 •1 
 
 d 1 
 
 and at the girdle, from which depend broad sash-ends, there is a mask of 
 unusual size with eyes turned inward of a 'Mongolian type. The helmet 
 is formed of an animal with the face turned upward. From its breast 
 proceeds the feather-holder, terminating in a plume of feathers above ; while 
 feathers al.so fall toward the back, and a fantastic little creature, something 
 like a bird, preceded by a much smaller, indefinable one, is represented as 
 creeping upward on the feather-holder. The 
 only traces of color still visible are bits of 
 red on the background. 
 
 Stela 3 (Plate XIII). Broken in three 
 pieces. Whole height 410 cm., of which one 
 metre bad been sunk into the ground. Width, 
 135-140 cm. ; thickness, about 42 cm. 
 
 The two narrow side faces have double 
 rows of inscriptions imperfectly preserved. 
 This stela lay sunk in the ground in a hori- 
 zontal position, with the sculptured side, 
 which had formerly faced the esplanade, 
 turned .skyward, and though it was covered 
 with foliage and earth, it was so badly 
 crumbled that all the finer detail had disap- 
 peared. Only the main outlines of the figure 
 were still discernible, and these I copied be- 
 fore I had the stone turned over. 
 
 The personage on the weather-beaten 
 side of the stela presents an entire front view 
 (Fig. 20). He seems to hold his right arm 
 against his bre.ast and the left arm against 
 his side. The head is surmounted by a tall 
 turban-like hea<l-dress, to the outside of which 
 is attached a plume of feathers, while an- 
 other plume still higher up proceeds from 
 an ornament on the top of the turban. 
 
 It can no longer be determined whether this figure, following the rule 
 of the stelaj of Yaxchilan, represents a human being of rank, or even, by 
 way of exception, a god. On the other hand it may safely be asserted that 
 the principal figure on the side which had formerly faced the temple and 
 had afterward fallen face downward, represented Kctsalkoatl in the char- 
 acter of a beneficent god. 
 
 The .sculpture on this side, which had lain n])on the earth, was admirably 
 preserved (Plate XIII). The principal figure is represented dres,sed and 
 adorned like the representation of a god on Stela 1, but enthroned, sitting 
 Turkish fashion, on a bench. The fronts of the two pillars supporting the 
 
 Fig. 20. — Sketch of the Weather- 
 beaten Side of Stela 3. 
 
48 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USUIIATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 thvoue are ornamented with large glyphs, resembling each other, while the 
 front face of the bench, the whole length of which is elaborately ornamented 
 with scroll-work, exhibits the small figure of a man. 
 
 The god sits cros.s-legged on the throne, clad in the usual tunic orna- 
 mented with little crosses, but instead of the cape of scales he wears a simple 
 necklace. The face is executed in alto-relief, and directly upon the forehead 
 (without the intervening serpent's head) is placed the great ribbed turban. 
 The holder with the plume of feathers is here also attached to the side of 
 the turban, but this time in a horizontal position to leave room for the large, 
 perfectly preserved inscription, which occupies the whole upper part of the 
 stela. 
 
 On the right hand of the god is what might be called " the box of 
 feUcities," — a pendant to "the chest of good-fortune" and "the rope of 
 honey" in the representations of like significance on the deity-.side of the 
 ste\se of Yaxchilan ! The box is of East-Asiatic shape, and ornamented with 
 the so-called four-leaved clover. I think the stopper, which has become in- 
 distinct, is meant to represent the head of a bee. 
 
 On the left of the god sits a man who looks expectantly up at him. 
 Seven horizontal rows of six glyphs each fill out the upper portion of 
 the stela, and groups of three hang down on each side of the head, — 
 forty-eight glyphs in all, plus the two on the pillars supporting the bench. 
 
 The remains of color are bright red on the face, arm, and garment ; 
 dark red in the background ; blue and green on the ornamentation, and the 
 feathers green, as always. 
 
 Siela 4 (Plate XIV). Probably broken in three pieces. The height of 
 the two pieces covered with sculpture was estimated at 305 cm., to which 
 must be added at least one metre for the lowest unornamented piece. Width, 
 135 cm.; thickness, about 40 cm. 
 
 Two rows of glyphs are still discernible on the narrow side faces. The 
 sculpture on what is presumably the deity-side is wholly effiiced ; that of the 
 other side is preserved, excepting the face of the principal figure, across 
 which the fracture runs. 
 
 The sculpture represents the front view of a richly dressed person of 
 rank, with the now shattered face in profile. The gigantic, strangely inter- 
 twined head-dress is especially noticeable. On the ground to the right and 
 to the left of the principal figure sits a prisoner. The rope with which the 
 arms are bound can be distinctly seen. 
 
 Eemains of red are still visible only in the background and on the un- 
 covered parts of the body. All the other colors have disappeared. 
 
 Stela 5 (Plate XV, 2). The lowermost portion of this stela, very little 
 of which can have been covered by sculpture, Ues all in pieces under the 
 roots of a giant tree. The preserved fragment is 255 cm. in height, 123 cm. 
 in breadth, and about 40 cm. thick. 
 
PIEDRAS NEGRAS. 
 
 49 
 
 An inscription in two vertical rows is still discernible on each of tlie 
 narrow side faces. The low relief on one of the broad faces is nnfortunately 
 wholly effaced, but the wavy lines still to be seen on the surface indicate 
 tliat it must once have been divided into several compartments filled in with 
 small figures. The carefully executed sculpture of the other broad face is 
 in a good state of preservation, and shows an entirely different arrangement 
 from that of the other stelae. 
 
 The principal figure carved in profile sits in what might be called Euro- 
 pean fa.shion, upon a stone bench covered with a tiger skin (tlie bend of tlie 
 tiger is plainly recognizable). The face of the pi-incipal figure and a part 
 of the lielmet have unfortunately .scaled off. Botli hands hold a sceptre with 
 a grotesque face. 
 
 In front of the principal figure, but a little lower down, stands a second 
 personage with a tiara on his head. Extending along the whole-length of 
 the back of the sitting figure is a rod ornamented to resemble a snake- 
 skin, which gradually assumes the foi'ui of a snake and curves down over 
 the two personages. Prom a mask on the ground, a variety of scroll-work 
 twines upward in the narrow space beliind tlie rod. Upon this scroll-work 
 rise, one above the other, two emaciated and apparently dying form.s, while 
 a third form with an extremely expressive countenance bends down over 
 the curves of the .serpent toward the helmet ornauients of the sitting figure. 
 Above the curve described by the .serpent, resting on a base of scroll-work, 
 is a large bird with a delicately executed human head. This bird is not 
 unlike those which surmount the cruciform bas-reliefs in the sanctuaries of 
 the two Temples of the Cross at Palenque. There are three glyphs above 
 the head of the personage with the tiara. 
 
 The exposed portions of the bodies of the two personages show rem- 
 nants of bright red, the tiger's eyes are bright red, the background is dark 
 red, and the ornamental scroll-work shows traces of blue and green. 
 
 Stela 6 (Plate XV, 3). Whole height of the stone, 293 cm., 228 cm. 
 of which are covered by the sculpture. Width at the bottom, 75 cm., and 
 at the top, 85 cm. Thicknes.s, about 40-43 cm. 
 
 One of the narrow side faces has an upright figure in ba.s-relief; the other 
 has two perpendicular rows of glyphs. On one of its broad faces the stela 
 had a bas-relief, now quite crumbled away, and on the other the figure of a 
 god sitting in a niche in half or ahnost high relief 
 
 Wliile the niche with the deity is cut very deep into the stone, the 
 surrounding glyphs and ornamentations are in very low relief. Owing 
 to these contrasts, it is difficult to obtain a satisfactory photograph of the 
 whole. 
 
 The god supports his right hand at his girdle, and holds in his left an 
 ornamental pouch, which hangs far down over the edge of the niche. He 
 wears a breast-cape of .scales and the familiar horizontal breastplate. His 
 
 MEM. PBABODY MUSEUM II. — 7 
 
50 RESEARCHES IN THE USITMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 Jiead is surmounted by a serpent's head. Over this is a small human head, 
 and over the latter the closed hand out of which proceeds the feather-holder 
 with the feathers. 
 
 There is ornamental work on the surfaces above and below the niche, 
 and a perpendicular row of glyphs of about twenty little characters runs 
 along the right and the left edge of the stone. Most of the glyphs are well 
 pre.served, but some have become indistinct and others have been broken 
 off. In addition to these there are some very delicately incised miniature 
 inscriptions : 3 + 4 -|- 3 at the very bottom ; 3 -f 4 on both sides of the 
 feather-holder, and 3 + 3 still higher up. 
 
 Remnants of color : face, arms, body, and thighs of the deity, bright 
 red ; serpent's head, hands, and feather-holder, likewise red ; breast-cape, 
 green, and all the feathers, green. 
 
 Stela 7 (Plate XVI). The stone is broken off obliquely across the neck 
 of the principal figure. Whole height (length), 349 cm., of which 277 cm. 
 are covered with sculpture ; breadth, 98 cm.; and thickness, 47-50 cm. 
 
 The two narrow side faces have an inscription in double rows. 
 
 The sculpture on one of the broad faces, which was in very low relief, 
 is entirely destroyed. That of the other, which had fallen face downward 
 and of which the principal figure is in very high relief, is in an excellent 
 state of preservation, even, partially, as to color. 
 
 A warrior of high rank, represented in front view, holds a lance with 
 a fantastic face in his right hand, a shield and an ornamental pouch on 
 his left arm ; his tunic, falling to the knee, has elaborate feather-work in 
 front and a border of sea-shells. The girdle is almost quite covered up, and 
 from it fall sash-ends which appear below the feather garment and exhibit 
 an elaborate pattern of Maya embroidery. The ankles and knees are 
 encircled by ornamental bands. 
 
 The head-dress can best be described as follows : upon the forehead 
 
 rests a flat omega O ornamented with little discs, which is surmounted 
 
 by a high omega Q,. The latter must be regarded as the jaws of a serpent 
 which hold a human head, the row of teeth on the upper jaw forming a 
 little penthouse for it. From the two extremities of the flat omega, fram- 
 ing face, neck, and breast, and likewise ornamented with discs, depends a 
 U-shaped band, from the middle of which a bow with ends falls to the girdle 
 in the form of an inverted tau ±. At the point where the bow appears there 
 is a little death's-head in a horizontal position. To the top of the high 
 omega are attached two volutes, out of which proceed two feather-holders 
 with plumes of feathers falling right and left. Above the volutes rises a 
 kind of architectural crest surrounded by three great, broad feathers of the 
 wild turkey (Meleagris ocelata) and feather scroll-work. 
 
 To the right of the warrior chieftain a captive kneels on the ground 
 with his arms bound together, holding his toothed sword, point downward. 
 
PIEDEAS NEGEAS. 
 
 51 
 
 in his right hand. The distinguishing mark of a captive, in the form of 
 two little glyphs, is carved upon the sword. 
 
 The remnants of color are bright red on the face and other portions of 
 the body of the principal figure, also in the vacant space enclo.sed by the 
 high omega (serpent's mouth) ; all the disc chains of the ornaments, shaped 
 thus ii, U, X, C, are sky-blue (this color is of especially fine quality, and so 
 distinct that it admits of no error) ; all the feather-work is green ; the naked 
 portions of the captive's body are bright red. 
 
 Stela 8 (Plate XVII). This stela is broken into several pieces. I was 
 able to fit together the separately taken negatives of the three largest 
 pieces, which are covered by the most important part of the sculpture. The 
 lowermost fragment is still sunk deep in the soil of the terrace, in a 
 perpendicular po.sition ; it displays, however, only a very little carving. 
 
 The breadth of this stone is 128 cm. ; thickness, 43 cm. Its former 
 height may have been something over four metres in all. 
 
 The two narrow side faces were decorated with double rows of glyphs. 
 One of the broad faces, as it seemed to me, had once been covered by only 
 an inferior kind of sculpture, which is now quite destroyed with the excep- 
 tion of a few slight remains. The more favored broad face has for its prin- 
 cipal figure a warrior of high rank. This figure is represented in full front 
 view, and his dress and head-dress exhibit extremely elaborate detail. His 
 richly ornamented short upper garment has a border of sea-shells, and the 
 loin-cloth below it is a network of cords. In his right hand the warrior 
 holds a lance tipped with a little image ; in his left he holds a shield ; his 
 head-dress is an enormous structure of scroll- and feather-work, and the top 
 of the stela is finished off by three horizontal rows of glyphs of, I believe, 
 twelve characters each. From each end of the lowest row four additional 
 glyphs extend downward. Below the base line of the principal figure 
 there are two rows of glyphs of eight characters each, which do not, how- 
 ever, occupy the entire breadth of the stone, because the captives kneeling 
 to the right and to the left extend a little below the base line. It is 
 plainly discernible that both the captives have their arms bound. 
 
 Remnants of color : the skin of all the figures is bright red ; back- 
 ground, dark red ; ornamentation, partly red, partly green, and partly blue ; 
 feather ornaments, green. 
 
 The eight sepulchral stete are all of a yellowish white limestone, hard 
 enough in the dry season, but somewhat soft in the rainy season, when they 
 are soaked with water ; and it is this that hastens the destruction of the 
 sculptured stones. Generally speaking, the sculpture is well and clearly 
 executed on all the stones, with a great wealth of detail. There was no 
 trace of yellow, black, or white among the remnants of color, either 
 because these colors cannot withstand the action of the elements or because 
 they were never used. 
 
52 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY, 
 
 The steloe having all been successfully photographed, we applied our- 
 selves to the task of thoroughly exploring the acropolis, the principal 
 structure of which is undoubtedly the temple of the eight stelaa. Following 
 the ascents belonging to the continuation of the stone stairway (Fig. 17), 
 we reached the plateaus of the mountain chain, which had everywhere been 
 levelled and prepared for the building of numerous edifices of stone. 
 
 We examined the numerous half-ruined structures, — remains of cham- 
 bers, passages, rear-chambers with triangularly arched vaults, half-buried 
 entrances, etc., — but in all that debris we found no sculpt\ired stones. Our 
 attention was especially attracted by a very long edifice which we called 
 La Gam Orande. It consists of a long, now ruined vestibule, with an 
 entrance in its medial wall to a rear apartment of equal length, whose 
 vaulted ceiling has fallen, while the long back wall still stands intact 
 Though the mountain range descends to the river in very steep and often 
 perpendicular cliffs, I nevertheless succeeded in climbing down between the 
 rocks with one of my men, in order to make a touj- of inspection through 
 that part of the city which lies nearest to the river. But liere also, among 
 countless heaps of ruins, we found nothing worth noting. 
 
 Between the acropolis and the hills of the transverse valley, where the 
 cabins of the wood-cutters lie, the otherwise rolling country forms an exten- 
 sive level area which occupies about the middle of the city. Here we 
 found two large, square sacrificial altars, to which I afterward gave the 
 numbers 3 and 4. It is clear that these altars, which I cleaned and 
 photographed, must have had reference to some temples near by, in par- 
 ticular to a large temple which I afterward called El Templo de la 
 Estiia de las Vidimas. 
 
 At the foot of the dilapidated pyramid of this important edifice, along 
 its south-southwestern side, we found four gigantic stelce, lying flat on the 
 ground, which I afterward numbered 16, 17, 18, 19. The stelae had all 
 fallen with the important sculptured faces upward, which were consequently 
 wholly destroyed. We comforted ourselves with the hope that the faces 
 sunk in the earth would have well-preserved sculptures. But this hope was 
 not fulfilled. Some had no sculpture at all on the buried faces, and others 
 displayed only certain wavy lines. The stones had evidently not been able 
 to withstand the moisture of the earth; nevertheless double rows of glyphs 
 could still be recognized on the narrow side faces of all the four stela;, one 
 even showing a figure in profile. 
 
 Somewhat discouraged by the negative results of our investigations of 
 the four giant steliB, we explored the forest in an easterly direction from 
 the Temple of the Sacrificial Stela, and came to a small half-ruined 
 structure, the ground-plan of which may be thus described: The projecting 
 right wing, and also the now ruined left wing, had each four connected 
 narrow chambers surrounding a middle room located somewhat below their 
 
PIEDEAS NEGEAS. 
 
 53 
 
 plane in such a manner tliat the fourth narrow chamber ran the whole 
 length of the building- and was therefore common to both the wings (Kg. 
 21). A now ruined entrance in the south front led into the middle 
 chamber, which had a large stone bench built into it. The monteros, whose 
 imagination is always stirred up by the thought of casas cerradas, not 
 perceiving the entrance obstructed by debris, had made a breach in the wall 
 of the narrow right side, but do not seem to have found the hoped-for 
 treasure. 
 
 As I was not prepared to undertake further excavations likely to con- 
 sume much additional time, after a stay of fifteen days among the ruins, 
 
 < iSi^loc™^ 
 
 Fig. — PiEDiiAS Xegu.^s : Flan of the Temi'LE of the Eight Chambers. 
 
 1 concluded to set out with niy men on my way back to Tenosique, whence 
 I returned to Yucatan, 
 
 In 1897, while on my expedition to Yaxchilau, I again passed through 
 Piedras Negras, but without attempting e.xcavations of any kind. 
 
 Not until the year 189!), when I had organized an- expedition under 
 the auspices of the Peabody Museum of Cambridge, Mass., for the further 
 exploration of the ruined cities on the Usumatsintla and of the Indian 
 territories lying in that region, did I find it expedient to subject Piedras 
 Negras to another investigation, in order to obtain definite results for the 
 Museum, before risking time and money in uncertain wanderings, especially 
 since the perpetually discontented men from Tenosique are never to be 
 counted on for any length of time. 
 
54 
 
 BESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 In the forests lying along the banks of the river, new lumber camps had 
 been established since my last visit, which, by their offer of large sums of 
 money, liad attracted all the available men for miles around, so that I found 
 great difficulty in securing a few men for my expedition. By the end of 
 August, however, I was able to leave Tenosique with three men and the 
 necessary pack-animals, having already sent a store of provisions and other 
 things to EI Cayo. 
 
 The palmleaf huts of the monteria of Piedras Negras had entirely disap- 
 peared, and everything was already quite overgrown by the luxuriant tropi- 
 .r.,-.,. ciil vegetation. For this reason I 
 
 had to find quarters for raj'self and 
 my men in one of the caves near the 
 place of the ceiba. These caves 
 afforded us excellent shelter in the 
 rainy season, which was now in prog- 
 ress. We supplied our animals with 
 fodder by daily cutting branches 
 from the ramon-tree, which fortu- 
 nately abounds in these forests. 
 
 We devoted the months of 
 September, October, and Novem- 
 ber (1899) to the further explora- 
 tion of the ruined city, with such 
 \ good results this time that Piedras 
 V Negras now ranks with Palenque 
 ' and Yaxchilan in respect of tlie 
 number and importance of its 
 sculptures. 
 
 I will now proceed to describe the new discoveries consecutively, in 
 connection with tliose previously made by me, in order to be perfectly clear. 
 
 The Temple of the Three Stelm 9, 10, 11, forming a part of the acropolis. 
 Leaving the stone stairway of five steps and passing along the foot of 
 the acropolis mountain range in the direction of the river, we came upon a 
 well-preserved, rectangular sacrificial table or altar resting upon four pillars, 
 which I called No. 2 (Fig. 22). 
 
 The length of the table is 220 cm. ; breadth, 172 cm.; thickness, 35 cm. 
 
 Certain wavy lines on the surface of the table seem to indicate that it 
 must once have had a sculptured bas-relief upon it, which is now totally 
 worn away. The grooves for carrying off the blood, sloping toward one 
 of the edges, are still plainly vi.sible. 
 
 Around the four narrow faces of the table run three parallel rows of 
 glyphs, which are quite small and have nearly all become indistinct. The 
 
 Fig. 22. - 
 
 « of glypliB. 
 - -'Vl.TAR 2. 
 
PIEDEAS NEGEAS. 
 
 55 
 
 four edges of the table have been pierced by a series of little holes at an 
 angle of 45°. Could they have served for suspending the skulls of the 
 victims ? 
 
 On the faces corresponding to the long sides ol^ the table, the four 
 supporting pillars have three perpendicular rows of glyphs of three charac- 
 ters each, that is, 4x9 = 36 glyphs, which are very well preserved, pro- 
 tected, as they have been, by the sacrificial stone. 
 
 The inonteros, who perpetrate a great deal of mischief among the ruins 
 of this wilderness, in spite of all prohibitions on the part of the Mexican 
 government, have torn out one of the supporting pillars of the table, sus- 
 pecting hidden treasures beneath it. It was, therefore, an easy matter to 
 put the detached pillar in a good light and photograph its inscription 
 (Plate X). The other tln-ee inscriptions, owing to the projecting edges 
 of the sacrificial stone, are in an unfavorable light, and it would be 
 necessary to make a mould of them if they are to be reproduced. The 
 heiglit of the little pillars is 91 cm., about one-third of which was sunk into 
 the ground. 
 
 A little way back of the sacrificial table rise the steps and terraces 
 belonging to a small temple standing on a considerable eminence, the 
 front apartment of which is in ruins, while remains of the real- apartment 
 are still standing, — a fact which I had already observed during my first 
 expedition. Among the debris of the ruined faqade I found the various 
 pieces of the lintel slab, which I called No. 5. Unfortunately its bas-relief 
 was almost wholly effaced. It was, however, still possible to discern that it 
 resembled a scene similar to that on lintel No. 4 (Plate XXXII), that is, 
 warriors kneeling before a Halachvink (warrior chieftain), with descriptive 
 glyphs overhead. It was possible to recognize distinctly that the chieftain, 
 who holds a lance in his right hand, has on the same peculiar round head- 
 dress as the one worn by the principal person in the bas-relief of lintel 4. 
 Unfortunately the whole thing was broken into such small pieces and was 
 so weather-worn tliat it was impossible to fit the fragments together so that 
 they could be photographed. 
 
 Upon the second terrace, rising about eight metres above the natural 
 level of the ground, formerly stood the three stelse which, in my enumeration 
 of the whole, I have numbered 9, 10, 11. They are all three broken in 
 pieces, but most of them having fallen with the sculptured face downward, 
 they are in that respect well preserved. The backs of the stelse were 
 smooth, the sculpt\u'ed fronts had faced the esplanade, and the sides had 
 also been ornamented with sculpture. 
 
 Stela 9 (Plate XVIII, 1). Of this stela three fragments, which held the 
 most important part of the sculpture, lay on the ground, while the bottom 
 piece and a piece of one of the upper corners could not be found. The 
 stone may have been about four metres in height ; the breadth is 112 cm.; 
 
56 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 the thickness, 42 cm. The two narrow side faces have a double row of 
 little glyphs, most of which have become quite indistinct. One of the 
 broad faces is smooth, without any sculpture whatever ; the other has 
 a bas-relief, of which the principal figure is a richly dressed warrior 
 chieftain in front view, whose right hand holds a foreshortened lance 
 surmounted by a death-mask, and his left arm a shield and ornamented 
 pouch. The short tunic has a fringe of sea-shells, and over it, beginning 
 at the neck, falls a long scarf which also seems to be ornamented with shells. 
 (A similar scarf with shells, of a somewhat different design, is worn by 
 several figures of warriors at Yaxchilan.) 
 
 Above the forehead on a flat omega _/^_ of little discs, lies the main 
 body of the circular head-dress, with a small glyph in the centre. To either 
 side of the sphere is attached an ornament, worked in elaborate detail, from 
 which proceed spreading plumes of feathers, while on top there is an 
 expressive mask, which is evidently meant to look like a face, whether 
 regarded in its normal position or upside down. Above this face great 
 bundles of feathers proceed out of tlie top and sides of an architectural 
 ornament, thus giving this remarkable head-dress the form of a cross. A 
 prisoner of war, with his arms bound, kneels on the ground to the right 
 of the warrior. 
 
 Although the sculpture has now largely crumbled away, it still shows 
 traces of very nice detail in execution. There are no remnants of color 
 visible. 
 
 Stela 10 (Plate XIX). This stela was no doubt thrown down by a 
 falling tree upon the ground in front of the pyramid, and broken in two 
 pieces in its fall. The lower half with the corresponding portion of 
 sculpture fell face downward, and is consequently preserved, while the 
 upper half with the upper halt of the sculpture is destroyed, because it fell 
 face upward, owing, no doubt, to a rot.ary motion in falling. 
 
 The height of the lower piece, taking a perpendicular line through the 
 centre, measured 230 cm., the upper piece 185 cm. ; total height, therefore, 
 415 cm. Breadth toward the centre, 108 cm. ; thickness, 38 cm. 
 
 The back is smooth. One of the narrow side faces has two rows of 
 handsome glyphs, and an initial glyph which occupies a space ecjual to that 
 of four other glyphs. These glyphs have crumbled away on the lower piece, 
 but on the upper one, which was buried deep in the earth, they are well pre- 
 served, making 1 + 14 preserved gl^'phs. The other narrow side face has 
 an upright figure in profile, and above it eight glyphs which have become 
 rather indistinct. Of this sculpture the breast, face, head-dress, and the 
 eight glyphs belong to the upper piece. 
 
 The broad face with the preserved piece of sculpture has at the 
 bottom (not counting, of course, the portion sunk in the ground) two 
 horizontal rows of large glyphs, four in each row, that is, eight in all. These 
 
PIEDEAS NEGRAS. 
 
 57 
 
 are executed in very flat relief, while the principal figure is in very high 
 relief, and they are not in the style of writing usual on monuments, but 
 are a simplified form of it, which I call " the second manner of Maya 
 writing." 
 
 Above the glyphs stands a gigantic figure in profile representing '■ the 
 man with the tiger's paws," well preserved, from the tiger's paw to the 
 girdle. He wears closely fitting leggings of tiger-skin, and his foot has 
 tiger's claws. 
 
 In front of this figure is a kind of throne embellished by a splendid 
 head and a certain kind of ornamentation in horizontal lines. Upon this 
 throne sits, in Turkish fashion, a personage of rank drawn in profile, with 
 his back turned to the principal figure, and well preserved as far as the 
 forehead. 
 
 As to remains of color, traces of red can .still be discerned on the arms 
 and thighs of the person of rank and also on the throne. 
 
 It is to be regretted that the upper part of this stela is destroyed, for 
 it would be interesting to compare " the man with the tiger's claws " of 
 Piedras Negras with the one at Seibal. 
 
 Stela 11 (Plate XX, 1). I found a stela with a god, which had fallen 
 from the edge of the second terrace and was broken in two pieces. It lay 
 inclining toward the lowest terrace at an angle of 45^ It was quite im- 
 possible to set up the heavy stones in this desperately awkward position. I, 
 therefore, had them hauled down on logs to the first terrace, where they 
 were turned over and photographed. 
 
 Whole height of the stone, 395 cm. ; breadth in the middle (owing 
 to the convexity of the side faces), 3 + 103 +3 cm. ; thickness, 45 cm. 
 
 The back of the stela is perfectly plain ; the narrow side faces, however, 
 are covered with .sculpture. On one of the narrow sides there is a well- 
 drawn figure in profile with three little glyphs by the side of its plume of 
 feathers ; above the latter a double row of glyphs, 5 + 5, anil quite at the 
 top, but weather-worn, the initial hieroglyph, which occupies a space 
 equalling that of two other glyphs, amounting to fourteen glyphs in all. 
 This side face is very well preserved. 
 
 The other side face has a figure in profile standing upright ; behind 
 it and crowded closely up against it, is another figure, a head shorter. The 
 space above these figures is filled in by a double row of glyphs: 7 -|- 7 = 14. 
 The sculptured figures on this face, though recognizable, are not so clear 
 and well preserved as those on the other. 
 
 The lowest portion of the broad sculptured side is naturally smooth. 
 It measures 108 cm., of which two-thirds had been walled into the ground. 
 Then follows 101 cm. of decoration in very flat relief, reaching to the lower 
 edge of the niche. In the middle of this bas-relief and on its base line is a 
 kind of circular altar over which a tiger-skin is .spread, with some pieces 
 
 MEM. PEABODT MUSEDM II. — 8 
 
^.^^ijtiiiiitrtttiiHiilUtMwifttifiniiii'rniiiiMtltitii 
 
 58 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 of wood laid crosswise. Upon this lies a naked human form, whose head, 
 arms, and thighs hang down over the altar. From the opened abdomen 
 of the victim (?) rises a bulbous vessel, out of the neck of which comes an 
 erect plume of feathers. In the background rises a T-shaped structure of 
 beams, from either arm of which depends a graceful arabesijue of grotesque 
 faces and scroll-work. All traces of color have vanished from the lower 
 part of this relief, while on the sculpture in the niche, which lay concavely 
 over the ground but untouched by it, the colors have been preserved quite 
 distinct and fresh. Only the very top of the stela, which was buried in the 
 earth, is very much disintegrated. 
 
 The god, probably Ketsalkoatl, sits cross-legged in Asiatic fashion, 
 on a step in the niche. He is represented in full face, almost wholly in high 
 relief. His right hand rests on his right thigh, and he holds an ornamental 
 pouch in his left hand. A horizontal breastplate with a little mask upon it 
 is attached to the green breast-cape. The cuffs at his wrists are green, 
 likewise the round ear-pegs. All the naked parts of the body — the face, 
 arms, and thighs — are bright red. 
 
 The head of the figure is surmounted by a green serpent's head with 
 red eyes and red open jaws, out of which develops the great ribbed turban, 
 surmounted in its turn by an expressive little head. The scroll-work to the 
 right and left of the serpent's head is partly red and partly green. All 
 the feather-work is bluish-green ; the rest of the background is dark red. 
 
 The niche is finished at the top by a curtain, looped up in four places, 
 and fastened to the edge above by tying, while along eacli side of the niche 
 runs a wide border of four and a half simple glyphs (in the second manner 
 of writing). 
 
 A horizontal line above the curtain separates the latter from the 
 ornamentation at the top, which seems to have consisted of grotesque 
 faces and scroll-work, but is now very much worn by the action of the 
 elements. 
 
 The Temple of the Lintd with the Consecration of the Warriors and of the Stela 
 with the God and the Vietims on tlie Platform Above. In Spanish simply : HI 
 Templo de la Estela de las. Vietimas. During my second exploration of 
 Piedras Negras I devoted especial attention to the temple at the foot of 
 the pyramid, of which I had found the four great steliB lying upon the 
 ground, and the two great sacrificial altars, because I was convinced that 
 the site ought to yield much more. I climbed up by the half-ruined steps 
 of the pyramid, for there was no trace of a front stairway, and investigated 
 the ruins on the platform above. 
 
 For the better comprehension of the plan of the entire structure, 
 let me say that the fagade of the temple in question fronts south-south- 
 west. On this side the pyramid steps with their retaining walls formed 
 
PIEDKAS NEGKAS. 
 
 59 
 
 the connection between the normal ground level and the highest plat- 
 forin, which merges in the monntain range behind, upon wliose receding 
 summits no further vestiges of buildings could be found. 
 
 The ruined temple itself is an oblong structure of the size usual for 
 a building, with a front apartment of three entrances, after the manner 
 of building in these parts. The facade is in ruins, but the entire rear 
 wall as well as the side walls are still standing. A stairway, built against 
 the middle of the rear wall of the temple, once led up to the flat roof, 
 wliich is now fallen in. 
 
 It is possible that the temple had chambers in the rear, corresponding 
 to the long vestibule, but this could not be ascertained without under- 
 taking an excavation. It would be still more difficult to determine whether 
 the edifice had a roof-comb or not. 
 
 Convinced that the faQade must have had three entrances, I made 
 a slight excavation on the platform near tlie middle of the mass of ruins 
 in front of the temple and was fortunate enough, after removing a few 
 stones, to find the sought-for middle lintel, which was adorned on its lower 
 face with a well-e.xecuted, very interesting piece of sculpture. The slab 
 was cracked in two, but, excepting the line of fracture, the sculpture 
 is admirably preserved, only the colors have entirely disappeared. I called 
 this lintel No. 2 (Plate XXXI). 
 
 Length of slab, 129 cm. Length of sculpture, 113 cm. 
 
 Breadth of slab, 58 cm. Breadth of sculpture, 49^ cm. 
 
 Thickness of slab, 15 cm. 
 
 Upon the base-line of the picture stands the principal figure, the 
 Halachvinic (halatsvinik), or warrior chieftain, richly dressed and wear- 
 ing a great helmet with plumes of feather.?. In his outstretched right 
 hand he holds a lance, on his left arm a quadrangular shield. Behind him 
 stands the second in command, or adjutant, likewise armed with lance 
 and shield. To the point of the lance are attached five little hieroglyplis, 
 probably expressing the command which the Halachvinic is giving the 
 six warriors kneeling before him. These warriors, doubtless subordinate 
 chieftains, are all well dres.sed, and wear on their heads helmets with 
 plumes of feathers. Each holds a lance in his right hand ; the shield on 
 the left arm being concealed, owing to the position of the body. The 
 sculpture is bordered on the left (from the spectator) by six large hiero- 
 glyphs, — one large initial glyph and five chronological representations 
 of faces; on the right by two perpendicular rows of small glyphs, 10-|-10; 
 on top by two horizontal rows of small glyphs, 22-|-22. In addition 
 to tliese are thirty-six still smaller glyphs, in tliree rows of twelve eacli 
 directly over the kneeling warriors. It seems evident that six of these 
 
60 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSIXTLA VALLEY. 
 
 glyphs, in two columns of three each, belong to each of the warriors. 
 In all, six large glyphs and one hundred and five smaller ones. 
 
 After so successfully finding lintel No. 2, we at once proceeded to 
 search for No. 1. But this time the matter was not so easy. As the 
 esplanade in front of the temple is scarcely three metres wide, the debris 
 of the ruined fagade had mingled with that of the retaining walls of 
 the terraces, and, to add to the confusion, a gigantic tree, blown down 
 by a storm, lay at full length along the dilapidated slope from the former 
 entrance of the temple to the foot of the substructure. As we were 
 in the midst of the rainy season, it was impossible to burn the half-decayed, 
 water-logged trunk. Hindered by the tree, we searched about to the 
 best of our ability. At last below, on the ground at the base of the 
 pyramid, we found a small corner-piece of sculpture, which I at once 
 recognized as belonging to the songht-for lintel ; and this strengthened 
 my conviction that the mam portion, covered by debris, must lie some- 
 where under the tree. 
 
 This corner-piece (Plate XXX) ju.stifies the surmise that lintel No. 1 is 
 also of great interest. It represents a scene quite different from that 
 of No. 2, and is possibly taken from every-day life. It may be assumed 
 that this piece of sculpture was of two kinds : A border of figures and 
 glyphs in very flat relief, and a group of small, very delicately executed 
 figures in half relief, occupying the central portion of the face of the 
 slab. The fragment of border on this corner-piece shows the small figure 
 of a man dressed in a long tunic held together over the abdomen by 
 a broad girdle, to the front of which is attached a large face-mask. His 
 head is covered by a simple cap, and his hands seem to be bound together 
 in front of his neck. Five miniature glyphs are incised in front of the 
 little man and on either .side, above his head, the lowest glyph of a short 
 series is seen. The little half-relief figure of the middle picture is that of 
 a man with arms crossed over his breast and his face entirely demolished. 
 
 Siela 13 {Plate XXI). We were quite unsucces,sful in finding lintel 
 No. 3, owing to the uncertainty as to whether it lay buried under debris 
 above on the esplanade, or somewhere on one of the terraces, or below 
 on the level ground. In its stead we found in a little open square on 
 the same platform, at the left flank of the temple, the shattered remains 
 of a great stela (the twelfth in my general enumeration) with a god the 
 sculpture of which, in spite of the fractures, was very well preserved, 
 as all the pieces had fallen with the sculptured face downward. After 
 we had disengaged the three lower pieces and set them up, we came 
 to the conclusion that the entire upper half was missing. We there- 
 fore examined the ruined .slope on the side on which we had found the 
 stela, and finally, far below on a terrace about three metres above the level 
 ground, we found the missing piece, which we also excavated and set up. 
 
PIEDEAS NEGEAS. 
 
 61 
 
 Under such difficulties we took some negatives on celluloid plates, which 
 we afterwards carefidly cut out and fitted together on a glass plate, 
 thus procuring a picture 47| cm. in length, which distinctly shows all 
 the sculpture still preserved. 
 
 I estimate the height of the sculpture from the base line at the bottom 
 upon which the lowest row of captives are crouching, to the very top, at 
 about three metres, to which at least one metre more should be added for 
 the lowest undecorated part. The breadth of the stone is 103 cm., and the 
 thickness 42 cm. 
 
 The back of the stela has no sculpture at all, but the narrow side faces 
 have double rows of glyphs, partly preserved and partly destroyed. 
 
 The god occupying the upper part of the stela sits upon a kind of 
 throne, with the right leg hanging down over it, and the left one drawn up 
 and lying upon it. In his right hand he holds a kind of lance, and his left 
 hand rests upon his left knee. He wears a carefully executed cape of scales 
 or short feathers, and a necklace of small leaf-shaped plates (not round beads), 
 and upon his breast a hand.some cruciform medallion, which consists of a 
 little bright-red figure holding a St. Andrew's cross with both hands and 
 standing on a triple pendant, while to the right and left of his shoulders a 
 similar triple ornament completes the form of a cross. His helmet supports 
 a great bird's head, from the fan-like crest of which great curved plumes 
 proceed. The graceful figure of the god, painted bright red, inclines gra- 
 ciously toward the priests, who are below him and are bringing him a 
 number of captives for sacrifice. One of the priests wears as a head-dress 
 a tiger's head with red claws and bunches of feathers (?) coming out of the 
 mouth ; the other wears a peculiar pointed hat with a large round cushion 
 on top, from which two long feathers stand up. 
 
 On the lowest base line I count six captives, bound together with ropes. 
 Among them is an old man, with emaciated limb.s, sadly casting his eyes on 
 the ground. Perhaps his arts of magic have brought him to this distressing 
 pass. He holds a little plaited box in his left hand. Close beside him is 
 an ugly " savage " of that period. His face is hairj", and he looks like a real 
 barbarian. Another captive holds up six slender little sticks. 
 
 In the middle, above this lowest group, there are two more figures, while 
 two priests stand upon steps to the right and left. Upon a still liiglier step 
 sits a man somewhat more adoi ned, perhaps a captive of high rank. 
 
 There are twelve personages in all represented upon this stela. The 
 custom of filing the teeth in the shape of a saw seems to have prevailed 
 among these condemned men, as can be seen through the half-open lips. 
 Almost all of them have a number of knobs or beads around the lobe of the 
 ear, and also on the chin or on tO]i of the nose. All the captives have 
 miniatiu-e hieroglyphs incised upon the breast or thigh or on the background 
 in their immediate vicinity. There are likewise several delicately executed 
 
62 
 
 RBSEAECHES IX THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 inscriptions on the tin-one. I find in all 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 3 + 3 + 4 + 2 
 + 3 + 3 + 2 + 3 + 3 + 4 + 4 + 4+ 4 + 3, making a total of 53 hiero- 
 glyphs, of which number only tlie three beside the handsome tassel have 
 become indistinct. 
 
 Various remains of bright-red color are still to be seen on the naked 
 portions of the body of the principal personages, as also on some of the 
 ornaments, the inscriptions, and on the background generally. All other 
 colors have disappeared. 
 
 Stela IS (Plate XVIII, 2). Upon the ground below I found a stela of 
 medium size, broken in three pieces, which had probably fallen down from 
 the highest terrace. To this one I gave the number 13. 
 
 The whole height of the stela may once have been very nearly three 
 metres. Height of sculpture from the base line to the top, 170 cm.; breadth 
 about 95 cm., and thickness 36 cm. 
 
 The narrow side faces have a double row of glyphs, very much im- 
 paired. The back of the stela is plain. 
 
 The broad sculptured face shows a richly dressed personage who is 
 scattering cocoa-beans (?), the symbol of prosperity (?), with his right hand, 
 and holding with his left an ornamental pouch with an appendage of con- 
 ventionalized rattles. The little glyph on the front of the pouch shows the 
 number 13 = : || = oxlahun — on one side of an oval containing a little bust : 
 equivalent to cihau-KaUiin. It is probable that the meaning of this glyph 
 is oxkhun-ah<m-Kablun,* that is, the thirteenth series of years. 
 
 This presumably beneficent deity wears buskins and breeches of tiger- 
 skin, a red girdle with a red border of sea-shells, and a very handsome face- 
 mask in front, from which depends a long bow with ends. 
 
 The breast-cape consists of little cylinders and stone beads. Below the 
 cape the breast is further adorned with a medallion, upon the smooth sur- 
 face of which I am unable to discover a design. The helmet is ornamented 
 in front with the head of an animal and on top and at the back with plumes 
 of feathers. The clear spaces of the background display delicately incised 
 glyphs, 3 + 4 + 4. Traces of red are discernible only on the pouch, the 
 face, and the girdle. All other colors have disappeared. 
 
 Stela 14. (Plate XX, 2). Buried deep under a mass of debris at the foot 
 of the half-pyramid, I found a stela with a niche resembling No. 6, but of 
 better workmanship. Tliis also had doubtless fallen from the top terrace, 
 and in its fall had been broken in two pieces, — a large upper and a small 
 lower one. The whole height of this stela is 282 cm. ; breadth, 82-85 cm. ; 
 thickness, 41 cm. The back face is perfectly smooth. The narrow side 
 faces have two perpendicular rows of glyphs, very well preserved on one 
 side and entirely worn away on the other. The relief on the sculptured 
 
 * Kaliin i.s the shortened form of Kabtun, = hand-stone, used as a support for historical and 
 otlier representations of stneco-worlc, etc. 
 
PIEDRAS NEGRAS. 
 
 63 
 
 side is injured only in a few places ; otherwise it is preserved in all its nicer 
 details, but only partially as to its original colors. 
 
 On the lower base line stands a man of rank, in profile, looking expect- 
 antly up to the god in the niche. He is dressed in a long tunic which 
 reaches to his feet. His head covering seems to terminate in a tiger's head 
 in front, and a plume of feathers falls down at the back. In his right 
 hand he holds a little leather bag tied up with a fine cord, and in his left a 
 flabellnm of green feathers with a red handle. 
 
 At the feet of this exalted personage is a round altar, the ornamental 
 superstructure of which can only be comprehended by comparing it with the 
 similar representation on the lower part of Stela 11. Here (that is, on Stela 
 14) also is seen a victim, flung across what is doubtless a tiger-skin and pieces 
 of wood laid crosswise. In this case the face, hanging down over the edge 
 of the stone, is represented in full-front view. Three beads of the necklace 
 are still plainly recognizable. Rising llames seem to meet over the breast, 
 and above them is the bulbous vessel, like the one on Stela 11, with a plume 
 of feathers proceeding from its thick neck. The scroll-work and the struc- 
 ture of beams also recall the decoration on the lower part of Stela 11. 
 Bright-red scroll-work runs up the right and left edges of the niche as far as 
 the curtain, which is divided into four parts (that is, tied up with cords in 
 three places), and has a horizontal band of six simplified glyphs (second 
 manner of writing) above it. Above this band is a fantastic green mask 
 with red eyes and mouth. It is crowned by a diadem of large discs with 
 scroll-work on either side and feathers on top. 
 
 All the sculpture described above is in very low relief, but the bright- 
 red god, who sits enthroned cross-legged in the niche, in Asiatic fashion, is 
 in very high relief and is represented in front view. His right hand rests 
 upon his right knee ; his left hand, now broken off, held an ornamental pouch 
 with the appendage of conventionalized rattles, which in this case does not 
 hang down over the edge of the niche, but lies upon its floor. The breast 
 is covered by a green cape of scales and a horizontal breastplate, but the 
 latter is very much injured. The bright-red face of the god is smooth and 
 beardless. The lips are wide apart, as if the god were speaking to the 
 people. Large round ornaments are in the ears. The head is crowned 
 with an elaborately executed serpent's head, surmounted by a fantastic little 
 human head. Both are for the most part green, the eyes and mouths only 
 being red. The teeth in the serpent's mouth are saw-shaped. The little 
 head is in its turn surmounted by an oval with the closed hand, which, 
 being contiguous to the curtain, leaves no room for a crowning plume 
 of feathers. Green feathers, however, fall from each side of the head- 
 dress. 
 
 Here and there delicately incised glyphs are applied. I can count 
 4 + 4 -f 4 -h 4 + 3 -f 3 -f 4 (?). 
 
64 EESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 Siela 15. Searching the ruins in the right flanlc of the structure, I found 
 a fragment of a stela, but failed to find the remaining pieces. On this 
 fi-agment is carved a kind of reptile in high relief. A row of glyphs evi- 
 dently once ran along each one of the narrow side laces. 
 
 Sldce 16, 17, 18, 19. I thus numbered four large stels, the sculptures 
 on which are destroyed. 
 
 Close by Stela 18, I found a circular altar two metres hi diameter, 
 broken in two pieces. Neither on its upper surface nor on the sides of its 
 cylindrical columns was there a design of any kind. The slab had once 
 stood on three strong columns, one of which I dug up to find out whether it 
 had an inscription or not, but it was perfectly smooth. I call this altar 
 No. 5. 
 
 \Ye had accordingly found in Piedras Negras five altars in all : two 
 round ones and three square ones. The Yaxcliilan custom of placing round 
 altars in front of all monumental edifices, on both sides of stelai, and gen- 
 erally in open squares and on terraces, very plainly did not prevail in Piedras 
 Negras. In their stead great sacrificial altars were set up in tlie principal 
 open spaces common to both the adjacent temples and the deity-stela;. In 
 addition to these, short columns are found here and there by the side of a 
 stela, probably for the reception of small sacrificial gifts. 
 
 I will add here, that the ivood-cutters found in this ruined city — who 
 knows where? — one of the little pillars of a small circular table, on the 
 front of which were two perpendicular rows of five well-preserved glyphs 
 each. As the stone — 46 cm. in height, '21 in breadth — was not very heavy, 
 they had carried it to Teuosique and as far down as Carmen, to show it as a 
 curiosity to their friends there. When I returned by way of El Carmen, 
 this lonn-forgotten stone, wdiich I re-discovered in a hut outside of the 
 town, w"as presented to me by the heads of the wood-cutting establishment 
 (Plate XI). 
 
 Stela '20. Turning a little south of Stela 19 (that is, south of the left 
 wing of the entire structure to which it belongs), a few steps will bring one 
 to a little stela, 83 cm. in breadth, broken in two pieces. The sculptured 
 side, having fallen face upward, is wholly disintegrated; the side lying upon 
 the ground has no sculpture at all. The narrow side faces are also plain. 
 
 Stela 21. Pushing forward a few steps further from Stela 20, I found a 
 stone, 115 cm. in height, shaped like the angle of a pointed arch. 
 The sculpture which was once on the front face of this stone is 
 wholly destroyed. The back had no sculpture, but there were faint 
 traces of glyphs on the narrow side faces. In searching for another stone 
 which might supplement the one just found, we came upon numerous 
 shards of Incense vessels, dishes and bowls of every kind, as indeed remains 
 of earthen vessels, often of the most delicate workmanship, are generally 
 found in the vicinity of all stelse. 
 
PIEDEAS NEGEAS. 
 
 65 
 
 Remains of two rows of glyphs. 
 
 Kemaiiis of two rows of glyplia. 
 Fio. 23. — Altai! 3. 
 
 by 180 cm. broad. 
 
 To the Temple of the Lintel with the Consecration of the Warriors be- 
 long no less than ten stelce : 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, of which only 
 three, 12, 13, 14, could be photographed. 
 
 Before we leave this half-pyramid 
 with its temple and terraces, we will turn 
 once more to the two great sacrificial 
 altars 3 and 4, on the ground at its base, 
 which I photographed in 1895. 
 
 Altar 3 (Plate VII, 2, and Fig. 23) 
 is 196 cm. long by 133 cm. broad. The 
 thickness of the slab is 34 cm. It is 
 broken in two pieces lengthwise, but has 
 not fallen to the ground. Around the 
 outside, along the four narrow faces of 
 the table, are the much weather-worn 
 remains of two rows of glyphs. The 
 upper surface has neither ornamentation 
 nor grooves to carry off the blood. The 
 four supporting pillars are quadrangular 
 in section and unornamented. 
 
 Altar 4 (Plate IX, and Fig. 24) is 190 cm. long 
 The thickness of the stone is 40 cm. 
 
 This slab is likewise broken in two lengthwise, but has not yet fallen 
 
 to the ground. The northern face 
 seemed to have traces of glyphs, 
 but I could find nothing at all on 
 the southern face. The eastern 
 and western faces both have remains 
 of a simple design, but not of a 
 glyphic character. The upper sur- 
 face seems to have had no sculpture, 
 but three grooves to carry off the 
 blood branching out from a central 
 groove are still distinctly visible. 
 
 Of especial interest are the four 
 death's-heads, T6 cm. in height, 
 which support the sacrificial stone. 
 Their form, however, so strongly 
 approaches that of the serpent's 
 head on the fa9ades of Yucatec 
 edifices, that I am in doubt as to whether they are really to be regarded 
 as death'.s-heads or as serpent's heads. They all have a small indistinct glyph 
 on the forehead. I think I still detected traces of red about the eyes. 
 
 MEM. PEABODV MUSEUM II. — 9 
 
 Keraaios of glypts 
 
 No ornament.ttion. 
 
 Fig. 24. — Altar 4. 
 
66 
 
 EESEAECUES IN THE USUMATSINTLA. VALLEY. 
 
 The Temple of the ZM and 23d Stelce. Going in a southerly direction 
 from the base of the pyramid of the Temple of the Lintel with the Conse- 
 cration of the Warriors, past the 20th and 21st stelas, a low rocky hillock is 
 reached, upon the upper platform of wliich are the scanty remains of the 
 walls of what was once a temple with a facade, that must have fronted 
 north. Upon this upper platform, not in line with the centre of the whole 
 structure, but toward the corner of the right wing, I found Stela 22. It 
 had unfortunately fallen with the sculptured side upward, which was con- 
 sequently entirely worn away by the action of the elements. The back of 
 the stela was perfectly smooth. The two narrow side faces had double 
 rows of glyphs in a partial state of preservation. This principal portion 
 of the stela, which had been broken in two near the bottom, is 240 cm. in 
 height, to which about one metre more should be added in imagination. 
 The breadth of the stela across the middle is 95 cm. ; thickne.ss, 42 cm. 
 
 On the level ground in front of the whole structure I found Stela 23, 
 unfortunately quite shattered, weather-worn, and crumbling. It had once 
 had sculpture on both of the broad faces, and two perpendicular rows of 
 glyphs on each of the narrow side faces. The height of the stone must 
 have been about four metres ; the breadth across the middle is 105 cm. 
 
 With the help of my men I set up the large lower piece of this stela, 
 hoping that the sculptured face which had been turned towards the ground 
 would still be preserved. The sculpture consisted of horizontal rows of 
 glyphs which formed the base of the actual relief. Most of the glyphs had 
 unfortunately scaled off so badly that it was impossible to photograph them. 
 Those that were not destroyed still showed distinct traces of red color. 
 
 The Temple of the S4th, SBih, Z6ih, and 27th Stelce. Constantly roaming 
 about in search of sculptured stones, we came to the site of a temple with 
 faces west-northwest. A terrace rises on that side only about three metres 
 above the level ground, while at the rear the masses of debris from the 
 ruined temple, mingling with the stones of the equally dilapidated masonry 
 of the substructure, reach far down to the road to Tenosique. 
 
 On the edge of the terrace (probably in front of the facade of the ruined 
 temple) formerly stood two stelfe, 25 and 26, which have fallen down to the 
 ground at the foot of the terrace. On the ground, to the right and left of 
 the terrace, stood two other stelas, 24 and 27- The one on the right wing, 
 or Stela 24, had fallen with the sculptured face turned upward, which 
 was consequently quite worn away by the action of the weather. The back 
 face had no sculpture at all. The breadth of this very much impaired 
 stone is 113 cm. A short piece of a thick column, probably intended for 
 the reception of small sacrificial gifts, stood close by. 
 
 Stela (Plate XXII). This stela had fallen from the edge of the ter- 
 
PIEDEAS NEGEAS. 
 
 67 
 
 race with the sculptured face downward, which was consequently very well 
 preserved. The face which had fronted the temple was perfectly smooth. 
 The two side faces seem likewise to have been smooth, for I could not 
 find a trace of glyphs upon them. 
 
 The height of the stone — including the smooth piece broken off 
 below — is 290 cm.; of these 190 cm. are occupied by the sculpture, 
 measuring from the bottom line of the relief (not including the incised 
 glyphs) to the upper edge of the stela. 
 
 In a niche executed in rather low relief, a richly adorned personage 
 sits cross-legged on a kind of dais, which is ornamented with a peculiar 
 design, meant, no doubt, to suggest a heap of bones. The figure in front 
 view is executed in vigorous, high relief. 
 
 Prom a breast-cape, made of large and small beads, depend three 
 medallions, — one on each shoulder and one in the middle. The god in 
 question holds an ornamented pouch in his right hand. In place of a 
 nose the somewhat impaired countenance seems to have had a depression, to 
 suggest the idea of death, as in the case of certain mortuary images at 
 Chichen-Itza. The two round ear-ornaments are very distinct. 
 
 The enormous head-dress is worthy of note. It is formed of a fantas- 
 tic serpent's head which merges into plumes of feathers on the top and 
 at the sides. 
 
 Below the dais of bones (?) is a very irregular ornamental design with 
 a band running perpendicularly through the centre, upon which three foot- 
 prints are incised. A band of simplified glyphs (second manner of writing), 
 comprising eleven oblong characters in all, runs along the right, left, and 
 upper sides of the niche. Above the upper edge is a conventionalized 
 mask with feathers and scroll-work to the right and left of it. 
 
 The stela is finished at the top with two horizontal rows of nine glj'phs 
 each, while a perpendicular row of thirteen glyphs runs down each side, 
 making forty-four glyphs of the monumental manner of writing, very well 
 preserved throughout. 
 
 Quite at the bottom, on the otherwise smooth surface of the stone, 
 along the bottom line of the ornamented base of the niche, run two horizon- 
 tal rows of incised glyphs, which have mostly become indistinct, owing to 
 their want of depth, and because the fracture of the stone runs through them. 
 
 Only minute remnants of bright-red color can still be seen on the 
 glyphs, the eyes and the ornamentation of the serpent's head. There are 
 no other traces of color left. 
 
 Stela 36 (Plate XXIII). "When this heavy stone fell from the edge of 
 the terrace, it broke into one large piece, three smaller ones, and innumer- 
 able fragments that could no longer be fitted together. The photographs, 
 however, of the larger pieces, whose sculptured sides show no trace of decay, 
 give an ade(iuate idea of the nature of the relief. 
 
68 
 
 KESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 The back-face of the stela is without sculpture, but each narrow side face 
 has a row of glyphs, which are almost all destroyed. 
 
 I estiiuated the height of tlie I'elief from its base-line to its upper edge 
 to be about 248 cm., to which should be added about one metre more, to 
 allow for the plain part formerly sunk in the masonry of the terrace. 
 Breadth near the centre, 129 cm.; thickness, 30 cm. 
 
 The principal figure, represented in front view and executed in quite 
 high relief, holds in his right liand a stafJ, which I cannot exactly call a 
 lance, because it is curved at the top and ends in an animal's head ; on 
 his left arm he carries tlie rectangular shield, upon the smooth surface of 
 which a design is delicately incised. It can be said of the imposing helmet 
 of the warrior, that it furnishes an example of the way in which the original 
 serpent's head was completely transformed into omega shapes and arabesques. 
 In reference to this question a comparison of the figures photographed 
 by me would, I am sure, prove convincing. The development of the 
 ii; C, U, J. shapes is fundamentally the same, on this stela, as that displayed 
 on the allied figure of Stela 7, the details only being differently treated. 
 
 The surrounding ornamentation of feather scroll-work very gracefully 
 finishes the high omega of the head-dress. I must not forget to add that 
 the omegas almost always, and sometimes the Us, or the ear-discs, are 
 perforated with little holes, presumably for holding little pegs upon which 
 certain ornaments could be hung. 
 
 A captive with arras bound kneels on either side of the principal figure. 
 Tliere are three glyphs above one of the captives and four above the other. 
 Here and there on the skin of the personages remains of red can still be 
 distinguished. Other colors have disappeared. 
 
 Stela 27. The stela which had stood on the ground to the left of 
 the terrace mentioned above and which I numbered 27, lay unbroken 
 where it had fallen. The upturned face, now entirely worn away by the 
 action of the weather, must formerly have borne the sculpture. I had 
 great hopes of finding an interesting relief on the uninjured face which was 
 buried in the earth ; and for this reason I had the stone lifted up a little 
 way by means of the windlass. But, to my sorrow, I found this face to be 
 perfectly plain, nor did the narrow side faces have glyphs of any kind. 
 
 The whole height (lengtli) of the stone is 280 cm.; breadth, 110 cm. ; 
 thickne.ss, 35 cm. Beside it stood another little column for sacrificial gifts. 
 
 The Temple of Stela !B8. Proceeding on a line with the temple of the 
 four stelte (24, 25, 26, 27), we found a little to the rear the retaining wall 
 of a platform about three metres high, upon which lie the ruins of a small 
 temple. Its now demolished fa(jade must have fronted west-northwest, 
 and the edifice could have had but one single apartment. I succeeded in 
 excavating the lintel of the doorway of this apartment, but it was unfortu- 
 
PIEDKAS NEaKAS. 
 
 69 
 
 nately quite without sculpture of any kind. On the edge of the terrace, 
 in front of tlie temple, a gigantic stela had formerly stood, and to this I 
 gave the number 28. It had fallen to the ground at the foot of the 
 terrace, and in so doing had broken into one large and three small pieces. 
 Although tlie sculpture, executed in very high relief, had fallen face 
 downward, it was so greatly impaired, by scaling off and by the action of 
 the weather, that it could not be photographed. Nor was it possible to 
 discover whether the narrow side faces had once had rows of glyphs or not. 
 The stone must have been about three and a half metres high. Its breadth 
 is 165 cm., and its thickness almost twice that of other stel». 
 
 The Temple of the Broken Glyph-stela, S9. Ascending the rising 
 ground l3'ing diagonally opposite the last-named temple, we came to the 
 retaining walls of the pyramidal substructure of a little temple which 
 formerly crowned the upper platform, but is now a mere mass of ruins. 
 The temple probably consisted of but one apartment, its facade fronting 
 northwest. Above, on the platform in front of the ruined temple, I 
 found a small stela with glyphs, 29 (Plate XXIV) in my general enumera- 
 tion, which was broken in one large and three small pieces. 
 
 The three small fragments bore the upper half of the inscription in 
 a fairly good state of preservation, and these I dragged down the side of 
 the dilapidated pyramid in order to photograph them in a suitable light at 
 the foot of the substructure. Tiie entire lower half of the inscription, which 
 is on the large fragment, had crumbled away so completely, under the 
 action of the elements, that it could not be photographed. The glyphs 
 were divided into four perpendicular rows of eight characters each. But 
 as the initial glyph occupies the space of two of the others, there are really 
 thirty-one. Of these 1 + 3 + 3 + 4 + 4 = 15 are preserved. 
 
 The stone is 82 cm. in breadth; its height may have been about 
 two metres. 
 
 Little remnants of color prove that the whole side bearing the glyphs 
 had once been painted red. 
 
 The Temple of the Cleft Stela, SO. On the left wing of the substructure 
 of the temple of the 29th stela just mentioned, and closely adjoining it, 
 rises the much higher pyramidal substructure of a neighboring temple, 
 which is likewise in ruins, and which also fronted northwest. I could 
 find nothing of any importance on the platform among the ruins, but below 
 on the ground in front of the substructure I found a small stela about 
 two metres in height, cleft lengthwise, which had doubtless fallen from 
 above. It had unfortunately fallen with the sculptured face upward, which 
 was entirely destroyed in consequence. To this stone I gave the number 30. 
 
70 
 
 BESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 Stela 31 (Plate XXV). On the level ground in front of the two tem- 
 ples, on what might be considered the middle line between the two, but 
 placed considerably forward, I found a gigantic stela, archaic in character, 
 to which I gave the number 31. It was broken into two great pieces : an 
 under one 148 cm. and an upper one 235 cm. in height, and furthermore 
 into two unwieldy blocks, which once filled up tlie space between the two 
 great pieces, so that the total height of the stone must have been about 
 five metres. The middle width is 152 cm.; thickness, 52 cm. The sculp- 
 tured side had fallen face downward. The back had probably never been 
 sculptured, and the side faces were so weather-worn that it was impossible 
 to detect even a trace of glyphs. That portion of the sculpture which was 
 on the lower fragment had for its base several horizontal rows of glyphs 
 in very low relief, which have become quite indistinct. Above them are 
 seen the feet of the hero or god. Then comes the fracture, and the sculp- 
 ture on the blook.s whicli belong between the lower and the upper fragments 
 is wholly obliterated. My men set up the large upper fragment, by means 
 of the windlass, so that I could photograph it. The sculpture is destroyed 
 on the left side of the figure, but what remains proves clearly that it 
 represented a personage attired in a manner similar to those on Stela3 7 
 and 26 (Hates XVI, XXIII). 
 
 In this instance the hero or god likewise holds in his right hand a 
 crook ending in a grotesque animal's head. The face is framed in orna- 
 ments shaped like X. Uj Q., C, as were the faces on the above-named stelae. 
 Kven the little holes in the (J and the high ii are to be seen, intended, 
 no doubt, for the insertion of little wooden pegs, upon which to hang orna- 
 ments and trophies. The stela is finished at the top by four horizontal 
 rows of glyphs, which have become indistinct. 
 
 In spite of the serious havoc wrought by time and weather, there were 
 still distinct traces of bright-red color visible on the face, the ear-discs, breast- 
 cape, and U-shaped ornament. 
 
 The Temple of the Lintel with, the Warnws and the Captive (4) and of the 
 Six Stelai, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37. Opposite the two temples just described 
 lies the temple of the lintel with the warriors bringing a captive to their 
 chieftain. The entire structure fronts east-southeast, and the back overlooks 
 the adjacent river (Fig. 25). 
 
 Upon the ground in front of the temple, in line with the centre of the 
 whole structure, formerly stood a sacrificial column, which now lies crum- 
 bling and half buried in the earth. 
 
 From this column a stairway leads up to the first terrace, upon which 
 stood six stelse, — three on each side of the stairway, — part of which are 
 entire and part lie broken in pieces on the ground. The massive substruc- 
 
PIEDKAS NEGKAS. 
 
 71 
 
 ture of the temple forms three steps, the masonry work of which is in part 
 well preserved, and is interrupted in the middle of the facade side by a 
 little stairway leading to the upper platform, upon which formerly stood 
 the temple, consisting of a single apartment. Behind, the hill slopes far 
 down towards the river. I was successful in excavating the lintel — 4 
 (Plate XXXII) in my enumeration — of what had once been the doorway 
 of the temple. It displayed an interesting group of warriors, together with 
 glyphs on the sculptured side, which was lying face downward on the 
 ground and which had been its under side before it fell. 
 
 Slope of liill toward river. 
 
 STEL/SE STEL/IE 
 
 32 as. 31 35 S6 37 
 
 Fic. 25. — PiEiiRAs Negras; X'lan of tiik Temple of thf. .Six .Stel.f:, axd Lintel 4. 
 
 Length of the stone, corresponding to the lengthwise position of the 
 sculpture, 124 cm. ; actual length of .sculpture, 109 cm. ; breadth of the stone 
 corresponding to the height of tlie picture (also thickness of wall), 
 120 cm.; actual height of picture (exclusive of the lowest incised glyphs), 
 92 cm.; thickness of the stone, 22 cm. and a little more. 
 
 Two kneeling warriors, armed with lances, are bringing a captive with 
 bound arms, before the Halachvinic. Behind the prisoner are piled up the 
 spoils of war, among which is an idol (?) standing upside down. The chief- 
 tain holds a large lance in his right hand, and with his left arm he presses to 
 his body an object ornamented with feathers. An especially striking feature 
 of this rehef is the gigantic globular head-dress, which seems to be meant to 
 represent an animal, since a conventionalized eye can be recognized in the 
 ornamental projection in front. On top of this scale-covered globe rises a 
 plume of feathers. A .similar head-dress has been found only on the prin- 
 cipal figure of the sculpture on the broken lintel No. 5, belonging to one 
 of the acropolis temples. 
 
72 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 Above the group of warriors seven horizontal rows of glyphs are dis- 
 posed according to the available space. I counted 8 + 8 + 10+10 + 15 
 + 15 + 15, that is, 81 in all, most of which h.ive unfortunately crumbled 
 away, only about one-quarter of them being well preserved. Below, by the 
 side of the Halachvinic, there is another perpendicular row of three glyphs. 
 Below the base line of the sculpture runs a faintly incised row of eleven 
 glyphs, seven of which are still well preserved. Traces of bright-red color 
 were still to be seen on the border, on the arras of the principal figure, and 
 on the glj'phs. All otlier colors had disappeared. 
 
 Stela SB (Plate XXVI, 1). The height of this stone is 251 cm., 205 of 
 which are occupied by sculptnre. Lower breadth, 50 cm. ; thickness, 48 cm. 
 
 This stone, which from its shape might be called an obelisk, has sculp- 
 tures on three sides ; only the back, which was turned skyward in falling, 
 showed no trace of sculpture. The face, which formerly fronted the square, 
 displays a personage of rank with three large glyphs above his head. I 
 photographed this face, being the one best preserved. One of the very 
 slightly narrower side faces also has a personage of rank ; the other has two 
 or three perpendicular rows of glyphs, now very indistinct. None of the 
 faces show any trace of color. 
 
 Stela 33 (Plate XXVI, 2). The height of this stone is 275 cm., 215 of 
 which are occupied by sculpture. Breadth at the base line, 75 cm., at the 
 top, 88 cm. ; thickne.s.s, 42 cm. 
 
 Upon a throne ornamented with a conventionalized face, scroll-work, 
 and masks of human faces, sits a personage, presumably a divinity, in 
 Asiatic fashion, whose most conspicuous adornments are three great medal- 
 lions, — one on the breast and one on each shoulder. The elaborated helmet 
 is of considerable size, and has on the front a kind of conventionalized bird 
 with large eyes. 
 
 A personage, possibly a priest, clad in a closely clinging garment, 
 stands before the divinity presenting a kind of helmet, copilli. A remark- 
 able feature of this relief is a little fish, michin. springing from the head- 
 dress of the priest towards the plume of feathers on the copilli. The 
 upper end of the stela is so badly crumbled that it must remain doubtful 
 whether it had rows of glyphs or some other ornamentation. 
 
 Above the little fish an L-shaped row of six gl3'plis, together with the 
 edge of the stela and the lower line of the ornamentation at the top, form a 
 square, within which an oblong character is executed in scroll-work, that 
 may possibly have some chronological significance. 2 + 3 little glyphs 
 behind the personage supposed to be a priest have become indistinct. 
 
 This entire bas-relief had evidently been most carefully executed and 
 for the most part covered with red polished stucco, but it is now very much 
 impaired. The two narrow side faces have two jierpendicular rows of 
 glyphs, which are now almost wlioUy obliterated. Probably there was no 
 
PIEDKAS NEGEAS. 
 
 73 
 
 sculptiu'e on the much weather-worn back face of the stela. The divinity 
 of this relief seems to be identical with the one on Stela 12. In some 
 re.spects this sculpture recalls the well-known oval picture in one of the 
 interior structures of the principal palace at Palenque. 
 
 Stela S4 (Plate XXVII). In spite of its very considerable thickness, this 
 stone was broken in tvTO pieces, but the delicately executed sculpture, which 
 had fallen face downward, was ver}' well preserved. 
 
 Whole height of the stone is exactly three metres, 218 cm. of which 
 are covered by the sculpture. Breadth at the top, one metre ; near the 
 bottom, 79 cm. ; thickness, 60 cm. 
 
 The back of the stela is smooth. One of the narrow side faces once 
 had five perpendicular rows of glyphs ; the otlier is so weather-worn that 
 it is impossible to say whether it was ornamented with glyphs or with a 
 figure. 
 
 The broad face which is sculptured is wholly occupied by a single 
 figure, the great warrior Hnech (hioet) = armadillo. On the heel protectors 
 of his footwear delicately incised bones can be discerned, as an indication 
 that the brave warrior Hnech scatters death wherever he goes. A string 
 of beads fastens a small head below each knee. Above his loin-cloth the 
 figure wears an extremely wide band or girdle, which entirely covers the 
 abdomen. The breast-cape of cylindrical and round beads is ornamented 
 with three handsome face-masks, — one on each shoulder and one in the 
 middle of the breast. A large face mask, attached to a strap around his 
 neck, hangs down in front. The warrior rests his right hand on his hip ; 
 on his left arm hangs the shield with a pouch or ornament hanging from 
 the shield. Upon the smooth surface of the square .shield is delicately 
 incised the horribly masked, fear-inspiring figure of a warrior. In place 
 of the ear there is a small deep hole, intended, no doubt, to hold the round 
 ear-peg. The head is covered by an armadillo, whose head has a human 
 face notwithstanding the addition of ears peculiar to the animal The 
 armadillo is surmounted by a certain superstructure, which is very badly 
 impaired ; a bunch of featliers on top falls over backward. A few minia- 
 ture glyphs are incised here and there on the edge of the stela. There 
 are traces of bright red on the arms, thighs, girdle, pouch, knee ornaments, 
 buskins, etc. All other colors have disappeared. 
 
 Stela So (Plate XXVIII). This was broken in one large and five 
 smaller pieces, but, the sculptured side having fallen face downward, the 
 relief was admirably preserved. Some of the pieces had fallen down to the 
 ground in front of the pyramid. The two largest I was able to set up on 
 the terrace. My picture, fitted together under such difficulties, came out 
 very well indeed in the end. 
 
 The total height of the stone is 270 cm , 215 of which are covered by 
 the sculpture. Breadth towards the middle, one metre; thickness, 41 cm. 
 
 MEM. PEABODT MUSEUM II. — 10 
 
74 
 
 RESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 The buck is plain. Tlie narrow side faces have double rows of glyphs, 
 which are now mostly destroyed. The bas-relief of the sculptured face is 
 sunk about 4 cm. below the surface of the stone, though the face of the prin- 
 cipal figure in front view is executed wholly in high relief It is, on the 
 whole, a very admirable piece of work, executed on extra-hard, light-yellow 
 limestone. 
 
 The warrior holds in his right hand a lance, on his left arm his shield 
 and pouch. Here also the smooth surface of the shield has a delicately 
 incised design. A little head is fastened under each knee with a string of 
 beads. Above the obliquely crossed loin-cloth is the girdle ornamented with 
 sea-shells. To the breast-cape of cylindrical and round beads are attached 
 certain ornaments with five points. The round ear-discs have each a small, 
 deep hole for the insertion of some additional ornament Above the charm- 
 ing, beardless face an omega diadem _•">_ forms the base o£ a great, round 
 head-dress, which is obliquely intersected by an ornament having a glyphic 
 oval in the middle. The broad feathers of the wild turkey (called pavo del 
 monte by the Spaniards, cuts by the Mayas) mingled with feather scroll- 
 work surround the strange head-dress. 
 
 To the right of the warrior crouches a captive with arms bound. Above 
 the latter are four glyphs. Remains of bright-red color are distinctly 
 visible on the warrior's face. The sea-shell border of the girdle, the pouch 
 of the shield, and the background are likewise red. All other colors have 
 disappeared. 
 
 Stela 36 (Plate XXIX). Height of this stone is 229 cm. ; breadth, 95 
 cm. ; thickness, 35 cm. The back and narrow side faces are plain. The front 
 face has four vertical rows of glyphs with eight little squares to each row ; 
 but as the initial glyph occupies the space of two, there are actually but 
 thirty-one in all. As the inscription lay face downward, it is in a satisfac- 
 tory state of preservation. It was covered, as usual, with a thin coating 
 of stucco, polished and painted bright red, of which traces are still visible. 
 
 Stela 87. This stela, the largest of the six, had unfortunately fallen 
 with the sculptured face upward, which was therefore wholly destroyed. 
 The back is plain. One of the narrow side faces has two vertical rows of 
 glyphs, still partly preserved ; the other has only one row of larger glyphs. 
 
 The stone, now broken into one large and several small pieces, must 
 have been about three metres high. Breadth, 126 cm. ; thickness, 50 cm. 
 
 After having thoroughly examined the terraces and temple described 
 above, my men and I felt convinced that it would be quite impossible to find 
 more stelae in Piedras Negras, because we had so carefully explored the 
 entire forest in which the ruins lie, unless, of cour.se, another suburb should 
 be discovered higher up the stream from the sacrificial rock. 
 
PIEDEAS NEGKAS. 
 
 75 
 
 We had discovered and examined in all no less than thirty-seven stelse, 
 of which twenty-three were photographed and fourteen were rejected as no 
 longer fit for that purpose. 
 
 As for sculptured lintels, we were of the ■opinion that excavations among 
 the ruins of certain temples might bring to light a few more, but only a 
 few, since a sculptured lintel is always a rarity. 
 
 I would add to my report the information that a large thin lintel — 
 which we will call No. 6 — had been previously found by wood-cutters and 
 taken to the Casa Principal, where, laid upon 
 posts, it had served as a table. On what 
 was formerly its under side it had an incised 
 design, consisting of a threefold crossing, 
 which intersects a circle of 30 cm. in diam- 
 eter, or, to express myself differently, a (_ 
 wheel witli six spokes, the ends of which 
 projecting beyond the peripherj' of the cir- 
 cle are, in a certain way, connected. In 
 1895 I made a copy of this design (Fig. 26). 
 
 I afterwards discovered similar wheels : 
 one on a lintel of one of the five temples be- 26. — i.xcised Deskx hpou 
 
 longing to the large five-fold temple at ¥A -isitt i>. 
 
 Cayo; another on the lintel of an edifice built on the southern side of tlie 
 temple square at La Mar; and still another cut into the smooth horizontal 
 face of the wide rocky shore of San Lorenzo. Lintel No. 6, mentioned 
 above, when found by me, was 134 cm. in length, but it must once have 
 been larger, since it had a piece broken off one end. Breadth, 125 cm. ; 
 thickness, 9 cm. When the Ciisa Principal fell in ruins, the lintel was buried 
 under the debris of palmleaves, and is now overgrown by the densest 
 vegetation. 
 
 Our life in the wet forests by day and under shelter of the caves by 
 night was, full of hardships, and we had repeatedly to contend with danger- 
 ous fevers. But our daily bath in the refreshing water of the Usnmatsintla, 
 which often rose high above the sacrificial rock, together with ample provis- 
 ions and now and then a dose of quinine, helped us through. In the begin- 
 ning of December, 1899, — at the end of the rainy season, — we were able to 
 begin our journey to Yaxchilan, where wo were quite as successful as we had 
 been at Piedras Negras. 
 
 Teobeet Malek. 
 
Milt ANIi Tl'- 
 
Memoirs Peabodv Museum, \ol. II. 
 
 PLATE III. 
 
Memoirs Peabouy Museum, Vol. II. 
 
 PLATE V. 
 
Memoirs Peaiiody Museum, Vol. II. 
 
 PLATE VI. 
 
Mk.moiks Peaiiodv Mc^kcm. \'ol. II. 
 
 PLATE \ II. 
 
PiBDRAft NeoRAs. Onk or tme Sin 
 
Mkmoirs Peabody Museum, \'ol. II, 
 
 PLATE XI 
 
 PlEDRAS NeGRAS : ONK OF 'I IIE Sl'l'PORTS UK AN A[.T AK 
 
! 
 i 
 
 i 
 
MEMOIRS Peahudv Museum, II. 
 
 PLATE \!I 
 
 PiEORAS Negras ; Stela i 
 
Mkmoius Pkaiiody Mr.sEVM, Xin.. 11 
 
 PLATE XIII, 
 
 I'lKHRAS NhUiKA^ 
 
 Sti:la .V 
 
MkJIOIHS PkMSODV MlSKl.M. II. 
 
 I'LATI-: MV, 
 
 Sti*:l.\ 4. 
 
Peauoiiv MlsB! M 
 
 FlKnilA^ NKiKAS 
 
 stbla 7 
 
M[:moirs Peahuhy Musei'm. Vni.. il. 
 
 PLATE XVI 
 
 PlEDRAS NEGRASI STELA 7 
 
MkMOIRS PeAUODV MuSEL'.M. \'i)L, li 
 
 PLATE \\ II. 
 
 PlEDRAS NeGRAS : StELA ^. 
 
MkMOIR> FEAIidDV Ml'SEl'M, VoL. II. 
 
 PLATE W ill. 
 
Memoirs Peabody Museum, Vol. 11. 
 
 PLATE XIX. 
 
MhMOIRS pEAliUIJY MUSEL-.M, VuL. II. 
 
 PLATE XXII. 
 
 PlKDRAS NeGRAS : STELA 25. 
 
Memoirs Pkaboijv Miweim, \'<ii-. U- 
 
 I'UATH xxn", 
 
MuMoiKs Peakouv MliStlM. Vul.. II. 
 
 I'l.A TE XX\' 
 
 PiEijRAs Nk<9KAs : Stkla 31. 
 
Pir.iiR Xkcras; Stei,.i; ^2 and 
 
Mr.MoiR^ Peahodv Mi'seum, \'o[.. II. 
 
 PLATE XX\ 11- 
 
 PiEDRAs Negras ; Stela 34. 
 
Memoirs Peabodv MuhKU.M, XoL. II. 
 
 PLATE XXIX. 
 
Memoirs Peabody Museum, Vol, II. 
 
 I 
 
Memoirs Peabodt Museum. Vol. II, 
 
 PLATE XXXm. 
 
 PlEDRAS NeGRAS: PlaN OF THE KuiNS. 
 
PEABODY MUSEUM 
 
 OF 
 
 AMERICAN ARCHAEOLOGY AND ETHNOLOGY 
 HARVARD UNIVERSITY 
 
 MEMOIRS 
 
 VOLUME II 
 
 CAMBRIDGE, MASS. 
 PUBLISHED BY THE MUSEUM 
 1901-1903 
 
Cop'/nf}ht, 1901-1902 
 By Pkabody Museum of American Archaeology and 
 Ethnology, IIakvard University. 
 
 University Press : 
 John Wilson and Son, Cambridgk, U.S.A. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 For Contents of this volume, see pages 3 and 79. 
 For Lists of Plates, see pages a and 81. 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT. 
 
 Fig. P-*"" 
 
 1. Cbinikilia. Portion of Inscription on Stone Table 12 
 
 2. Chancala. Plan of Temple and Substructure 13 
 
 3. ,. Cross-section of Tem])!e and Substructure 16 
 
 4. Xupa. Human Figure carved on Stoue Slab, Inuer Chamber of Temple ... 21 
 
 5. Petha. Calabash Drinking Vessel 27 
 
 6. ,, Incised Design on Calabash 27 
 
 7. „ „ „ ., 28 
 
 8. ,, Terra-cotta Incense Burner 28 
 
 9. ,, Rock Painting of a Monster 30 
 
 10. ,, Eock Painting of Human Figure auil liumau Ilanil 30 
 
 11. ,, Bow and Arrows of Lacantun Indians 36 
 
 12. ,, Package of Flint Flakes 37 
 
 13. ,, Flint Fl.akes from Package ,, 37 
 
 14. ,, Flint Arrow-point ,, 
 
 1.5. Piedras Negraa. Figures sculptured on Rock 42 
 
 IG. ,, ,, Glyph sculptured on Rock 43 
 
 17. ,, „ Plan of Terrace of the Eight Stehe 44 
 
 18. ,, ,, Section of ,, ,, ., ., 4.') 
 
 19. ,, „ Design on Altar 1 15 
 
 20. ,, „ Design on Stela 3 47 
 
 21. ,, „ Plan of the Temple of the Eight Chambers 53 
 
 22. „ ,, Design ou Altar 2 54 
 
 23. ,, ,, ,, „ „ 3 65 
 
 24. ,, ,, Design on Altar 4 (65 
 
 25. ,, ,, Plan of the Temple with six Stelai and Lintel 4 71 
 
 26. ,, ,, Cross Design on Lintel 6 75 
 
 27. El Cayo. Cross Design on Stone Lintel ^5 
 
 28. ,, Faqade of Temple 86 
 
 29. „ Plan of Temple 86 
 
 30. ,, Section through Temple 87 
 
 31. „ Sculpture ou Stela 3 88 
 
iv ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT. 
 
 Fig. Page 
 
 32. Budsilha. Plan of Euiii 91 
 
 33. ,, Human Figure of Jadeite 92 
 
 34c£. La Mar. Cross Desigu on Lintel 94 
 
 34i. Sau Lorenzo. Cross Design on Rock 94 
 
 35. El Chile. Plan of Double Temple 97 
 
 oG. El Chicozapote. Plan of Ruiu 101 
 
 37. Yiixchilan. Ground-plan of Structure 1 11-5 
 
 38. Hieroglyphic Inscription on Stela 3 122 
 
 39. Section and G-rouud-plan of Structure 6 123 
 
 40. Column in Front of Structure 9 126 
 
 41. „ Glyphs on Stela 1 128 
 
 42. Ground-plan of Terrace with Structures 10 and 11 129 
 
 43. ,, Hieroglyphic Inscription on Lintel 29 131 
 
 44. ,, Design on Stela 8 13G 
 
 45. Section and Ground-plan of Structure 19 137 
 
 46. „ ,, ,, 20 140 
 
 47. „ „ „ „ 21 147 
 
 48. ,, Ground-plan of Structure 22 149 
 
 49. Hieroglyphic Inscription on Lintel 18 149 
 
 50. ,, Fragment of „ ,,20 150 
 
 51. ,, Initial Glyph on Lintel 21 150 
 
 52. ,, Section and Ground-plan of Structure 23 151 
 
 53. Hieroglyphic Inscription on Lintel 26 153 
 
 54. Section and Ground-plan of Structure 25 155 
 
 55. „ „ „ „ „ „ 30 157 
 
 56. „ „ „ „ „ „ 33 160 
 
 57. ,, Figure of Ketsalkoatl 161 
 
 58. ,, Section of Lintel 4 167 
 
 59. „ Section and Ground-plan of Structure 39 170 
 
 60. ,, Circular Altar in Structure 39 171 
 
 61. ,, Section and Ground-pLan of Structure 40 173 
 
 62. ,, Stone Buri.al Urn 183 
 
 63. ,, Section and Ground-plan of Structure 42 184 
 
 64. ,, Group of Glyphs on Lintel 45 188 
 
 65. ,, Hieroglyphic Inscription on Lintel 46 188 
 
 66. ,, Section and Ground-plan of Structure 44 190 
 
 67. San Lorenzo. Rock Carvings • 205 
 
 68. ,, Stone Head from Temple 206 
 
MEMOIRS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 PEABODY MUSEUM OF AMERICAN ARCHAEOLOGY AXD 
 ETHNOLOGY, HARVARD UNIVERSITY 
 
 Vol. II— No. 2 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE CENTRAL PORTION 
 
 OF THE 
 
 USUMATSINTLA VALLEY 
 
 Reports of Explorations for the Museum. — Part Second 
 
 BY 
 
 TEOBERT MALER 
 
 CAMBRIDGE 
 PUBLISHED BY THE 
 1903 
 
 MOSEOM 
 
Copi/ruiht, 1903 
 
 Pfahody .Mitseum of Amkrican Archap:oi-OGY and 
 
 K'i'ilXOLOGY, IIauVAHD UxiVKRSITy. 
 
 Unive^rsity Press: 
 John Wilson and Son. Ca:\icridgk. U.S.A. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 Fase 
 
 List of Plates SI 
 
 VII. El Cavd S3 
 
 VIII. BlDSILlU 89 
 
 IX. La SIai: . 93 
 
 X. El Chile 9C 
 
 XI. Akaite II as 
 
 XII. El CiiicozAi'OTE 100 
 
 XIII. Y.ixcii.LAX H»i 
 
 XIV. Visit to Andres Bolon l^S 
 
 XV. Sax Lohenzo 203 
 
LIST OF PLATES. 
 
 XXXIV. El Cayo. 1, Stela 1. 
 
 '* " 2, Stela 1 
 XXXV. " Lintel 1. 
 
 XXXVI. La Mar. 1, Stela 2. 
 
 " 2, Stela L 
 
 XXXVIL El Chicozapote. 1, Liiitcl 1. 
 
 2, Lintel 2. 
 
 XXXVln. '• " 1, Lintel 3. 
 
 '• " 2, Lintel 4. 
 
 XXXIX. Yaxchilan. Plan of the Biiins. 
 
 XL. " 1, Striietnrc 0. 
 
 " 2, Structure 11), 
 
 XLI- " 1, Structure 20. 
 
 " 2, Structure 2S. 
 
 XLII. " 1, Structure 30. 
 
 " 2, Structure 33. 
 
 XLIII. " 1, Structure 40. 
 
 2, Structure 3it. 
 
 ^LIV. " 1, Interior, Structure 1!). 
 
 " 2, Interior, Structure 40. 
 
 XLV. " 1, Interior, Structure 33. 
 
 " 2, Interior, Structure 39. 
 XLVL " Lintel 1. 
 
 XLVII. " Lintel 2. 
 
 XL\ III. " Lintels. 
 
 XLIX. " Lintel 5. 
 
 L. Lintel 6. 
 
 LI. " Lintel 7. 
 
 LII. " Lintel S. 
 
 LIII. " Lintel 9. 
 
 LIV. " Lintel 10. 
 
 -LV. " Lintel 14. 
 
 LVI. " Lintel 21. 
 
 LVII " Lintel 22. 
 
 LVIII. " Lintel 26. 
 
82 
 
 LIX. 
 
 LIST OF PLATES. 
 
 Yuxchiliin. 1, Lintel '2G, Frontal Inscription. 
 " 2, Lintel 27, Frontal Inscription. 
 
 " 3, Lintel 28, Frontal Inscription. 
 
 Lintel 30. 
 " Liutel 31. 
 
 " Lintel 32. 
 
 Lintel 83. 
 " Lintel 37. 
 
 " 1, Lintel 38. 
 
 " 2, Lintel 39. 
 
 3, Lintel 40. 
 
 Liutel ii. 
 " Lintel 43. 
 
 " Lintel 46. 
 
 " Stela 1. 
 
 " Stela 4. Upper and Lower Portions. 
 
 Stel.T 6. 
 
 1, Stela 2 
 
 2, Stela 13. 
 
 3, Stela 9. 
 " Stela 10. 
 
 " 1, Stela 11, Deity Side. 
 
 " 2, Stela U, Unman Side. 
 
 " Stela 11, Lower Portion. 
 
 " 1, Stela 12, Deity Side. 
 
 " 2, Stela 12, Human Side. 
 
 1, Stela 18. 
 " 2, Stela 111. 
 
 Stela 20. 
 " 1, Stela 15. 
 
 " 2, Altar on Terrace of Structure 44. 
 
 " 1, One of the Altars at foot of Stairway, Structure 36. 
 
 " 2, One of the Altars ou Terrace of Structure 19 ; also Terra-cotta 
 
 Incense Vessels. Stucco Ornaments and other objects from 
 
 the ruins. 
 
EESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 VII. 
 
 EL CAYO.* 
 
 To complete my exploration of the country along the Usumatsintla 
 River, I left ray residence in Ticul (Yucatan) in the middle of March, 1897, 
 and went by way of Merida to Progreso. Here, comfortably lodged in the 
 villa of my distinguished fripnd, Sr. Felix Taller, I awaited the .starting of a 
 steamer for Carmen. On the eve of my departure the sad intelligence was 
 received of the decease of the Bishop of Merida, Dr. Crescencio Carrillo 
 y Ancona, a man of high culture, who had ever honored me with his friend- 
 ship and whose death I mourn sincerely. 
 
 On the 20th of March, 1897, I embarked with my lugg.age on the 
 steamer '■ Tabasco," belonging to the firm of Romano. Touching at Cam- 
 peche on our way, we came without mishap to Carmen, and, taking up my 
 temporary abode here, I awaited an opportunity to cross the Gulf and to 
 sail up the Usumatsintla to Tenasique. On April 3d I succeeded in setting 
 forth in a small steamer, " La Golondrina." The name of the obliging 
 captain of this craft was Berzunza. After a pleasant trip of five days, we 
 arrived at Tenosique, where I hired a small house to enable me to make 
 the necessary preparations for exploring expeditious fraught with so many 
 difficulties. 
 
 My plan was to explore the Usumatsintla from Tenosique upward as 
 far as the ruins of Yfixchilan, and then to return to my starting point to 
 wait until the end of the rainy season. Having engaged five fairly respect- 
 able men at twenty-tive pesos a month each and maintenance ; and having 
 bought the necessary provisions ; packed my photographic apparatus ; and 
 hired the necessary pack-animals at a high rate from one of the wood-cutting 
 firms, I was able to start on May 16tli. In my report on Piedras Negras,t 
 the route from Tenosique to El Cayo.t abounding in beautiful scenery, has 
 been described. 
 
 * Jloxico. Left bank of the Usumatsintla. May, 1S97. El C.ivo means the place where 
 tlie banks are strewed with stones." Cayo is one of the words brought by the .Spaniards from Hayti 
 and Cuba. 
 
 t In the preceding reports in this voiume. 
 
 X A map of this region is given as Plate I of this vohune. 
 
 MEM. PEABODT MDSEDM II. — 11 
 
84 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USUIIATSIXTLA VALLEY. 
 
 We reacliefl El Cayo on May 20th. Here, too, the river afforded a 
 magnificent panorama. Emerging from the wild, cleft mountain, the river 
 flows around an island covered witli trees and forms an extensive beach, 
 gleaming white in the sun, composed of sand and of brolien stones ground 
 smooth. Here the mineralogist can gather an interesting collection con- 
 taining specimens of all that is buried in the heart of the most distant 
 mountains of Chiapa and Guatemala. Manj- of these stones are so beautiful 
 that even the natives never foil to take specimens,,which they use as paper- 
 weights. Many species of stone are found here. I thought I recognized 
 carnelian, syenite, jadeite, ofite, hematite, pure white marble of the finest 
 grain, very pretty pieces of petrified wood, etc. These stones, the most of 
 which are extremely hard, are of all colors : white, ash-gray, black, brown, 
 ochre-yellow, green, blood-red, and pink. Many are striped with several 
 colors. 
 
 So far we had been on the rigiit shore. But here we had to cross the 
 river, and to enable us to do this a caynco was sent from the monteria which 
 is situated on the opposite shore and belongs to the firm of Valenzuela. 
 The Casa principal — built of posts with palm-leaf roof — lies close to the 
 left embankment. Tlie Encargado of this monteria. Don Trimsito Mejenes, 
 received us in a friendly manner and gave me shelter. 
 
 Good fortune ordained that in the tracts now strewed with the huts of 
 the wood-cutters, an ancient city once stood which had been so overgrown 
 with trees that it had not been noticed before. The principal building of 
 this city, a temple palace of five temples, lies directly in the rear of the 
 Casa principal. Its eastern, narrow side faces the edge of the high embank- 
 ment which is very near. It must, however, be noted that the ever tur- 
 bulent river is at present rapidly eating away the left high embankment, so 
 that in a short time the Casa principal will have to be abandoned ; and hence 
 it is natural to suppose tl)at in antiquity this temple must have stood much 
 farther away from the river than at present. 
 
 I undertook a detailed exploi-ation of the mound of debris, which was 
 covered with vegetation. In spite of the badly ruined condition of this 
 structure, its unmistakable architectural form could be traced from the 
 remnants of walls, flights of stops, terraces, and chambers. The plan proved 
 to be one seldom met with in the peninsula of Yucatan; but the double 
 temple found in the neighboring El Chile is an evidence that the crowning 
 of the top platform of a pyramidal substructure with two, three, or more 
 temples was not unusual in the Usnmatsintla district. 
 
 The fa(;ade of the whole structure faced the north, and on this side 
 above a terrace is a series of chambers running the wdiole length, above 
 which is another platform crowned with the temples. On the rear side 
 facing the south there are only broad steps formed of massive stones, ;iud 
 no chambers. 
 
EL CAVO. 85 
 
 The massive terrace on the north is about four metres in height, and 
 forms a level space in front of the somewhat receding series of chambers 
 already mentioned. From the base of the terrace a massive central stairway 
 leads to the elevation of the temples. The exact number of rooms could 
 not be determined witli certainty without removing the great masses of 
 debris formed by the ruined fa(;ade and the vaults, which concealed them 
 for the most part. It is possible that there were two rooms on each 
 flank of the stairway. 
 
 Before we ascend to the temples, I must mention that on the terrace 
 in front of the left wing there formerly stood two stete ornamented with 
 reliefs, which were found lying on the ground covered with rubbish. On the 
 terrace in front of the right wing no stelaj were found. Among the debris 
 of the chambers on the left wing, a highly interesting lintel was found, 
 sculptured on its under side, while the otlier 
 lintels excavated were not carved. 
 
 Above, on the platform, there was a i-e- 
 ceding row of five temples which are now 
 wholly or partially in ruins. The space be- 
 tween the separate temples measured exactly 
 225 cm. Each temple had bnt a single cham- 
 ber with two entrances, each 75 cm. wide, on 
 the north. The length of these chambers was 
 about 352 cm. ; breadth, 160 cm. ; thicl?ne.ss of 
 the walls, 80 cm., — which gives an exterior 
 length of 512 cm. and an exterior breadth of -7- — Incised Design wrm 
 320 cm. In the chamber of the middle temple 
 
 the stela with the relief representing the principal god (?) leaned against 
 the centre of the main wall, with the lower part sunk into the ground. 
 
 The lintels of these temples had no sculpture, except that one, from an 
 .entrance to the fourth temple, had carved on its under surface a large St. 
 Andrew's cross (Fig. 27), belonging to the same class as those of Piedras 
 Negras (Fig. 26), La Mar (Fig. 34a), and San Lorenzo (Fig. Sii). 
 
 Cros.ses of this kind, sculptured on the under side of lintels of the door- 
 ways to certain rooms, must have had some special significance, perhaps 
 astronomical. They may intimate that these rooms were devoted to the as- 
 tronomer-priests, to whom the calculation of the chronology was intrusted. 
 
 I have made a plan of this remarkable edifice, representing it as restored 
 (Figs. 28, 29, and 30). I estimated the total height of the building at 15 m., 
 and the length of the upper platform at 40 m., this latter measurement 
 corresponding to the length of the series of rooms of the second story. The 
 total length measured on the lowest terraces would be 50 m. 
 
 Slela 1 (Plate XXXIV, 1). Only one of the broad sides has a sculp- 
 ture. This represents a person of rank whose high head-dres.s, resting on a 
 
86 
 
 HESEAHCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 cross-blind, seems to represent a turtle with its head in front, and with the 
 small figure of a man developing from the back part, with his head facing the 
 broad feather-work at the back. Above the little head, emerging from a 
 
 111 a R ■ 
 
 IH 1, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1. 
 
 Fig. 28. — FAC.\nE or Temple at El C'avo (re.storecl). 
 
 scroll-work, is the head-dress, from wliich a large plume of ketsal feathers 
 droops forward. It may be that the name of this personage of rank was Ac, 
 tortoise. The body is represented in front view, but the face is in profile. 
 
 Hi EH [H m 
 
 m 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1. 
 
 
 (k 
 
 Fig. 29. — Plan of Temple at Fl Cayo (restored). 
 
 The right hand is at a little distance from the body, and the left, resting 
 against the hip, appears to hold an ornamental pouch. Between the feet, 
 which are spread apart, a deep hollow was cut out, in which, it may be. 
 
EL CAYO. 
 
 87 
 
 sacrificial gifts were placed. On the ground in front of tlie face tliere are 
 tliree glyphs, and near these on the border a few more are carved (3 + 4). 
 
 Notwithstanding tlie fact tliat this sculpture has suffered froin the action 
 of the rain, the principal outlines are to be distinctly seen on my picture. 
 Only the finer detail and the colors have disappeared. The total height 
 of the stone is 238 cm., 191 cm. of which are occupied by the sculptnre, 
 the breadth of which with the border is 90 cm. (not taking into account the 
 slight swelling of the narrow side.s) ; thickness of the stone, 25 cm. 
 
 Stela 2 (Plate XXXIV, 2). 
 This stone had fallen upon the 
 ground, as I supposed, with 
 the principal sculptm-e turned 
 skyward, wdiicli was, therefore, 
 wholly destroyed. The face, 
 turned to the earth, was well 
 preserved. Its sculpture, how- 
 ever, was of snch low relief 
 that it was scarcely distinguish- 
 able ; but, washed and brushed ,„ ^ ,^ „ „ 
 
 I'iG. dU. — Section thuouoh Temple at Lavo 
 off and touched with the slant- (re.stoieil). 
 
 ing rays of the sun, it was en- 
 livened to such an extent that my photograph gives all that it was possible 
 to bring out. 
 
 The .sculpture is divided horizontally in the centre by a kind of throne, 
 on which a richly dressed person sits cros.s-legged, in oriental fashion. We 
 recognize the breast-cape of bead-work, and the head surmounted by a high 
 helmet with feather ornament. Both hands rest in his lap. The face of 
 this deity (?) is turned towards a personage standing on the base line, who 
 seems to hold feather fans in both hands. The medium-sized head-dress of 
 this priestly figure is surmounted by a double feather curving backward and 
 crossed on its stem by a broad cross band. In the lower part of the sculp- 
 ture, which is now indiscernible, I imagine there was a prisoner intended 
 for sacrifice. The clear spaces of the background are filled up with hiero- 
 glyphs. I thought I could count 4 + 4 + 2 -f 3. No traces of color 
 remain. The present height of the stone (the piece sunk in the ground is 
 broken off) is 220 cm. ; greatest breadth, 106 cm. ; thickness. 25-27 cm. 
 
 Stela 3. This is standing in its place at the middle of the long wall in 
 the chamber of the middle temple. The total height of the stone is about 
 161 cm. ; breadth, 60 cm. The height of the sculpture is 111 cm. ; and the 
 breadth, without the border, 45 cm. 
 
 This relief — even if it be assumed that it was formerly embellished 
 with stucco and color and has suffered from the ravages of time — is of 
 extremely imperfect workmanship, and exhibits a lower degree of art than 
 
88 
 
 EESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 the stelas just described, or of tlie superb undersculpture of Lintel 1. Its 
 archaic character seems to point to the ohlest epoch of this ancient city. 
 Probably this rude idol was held in particular reverence by the people, and 
 for this reason the priests did not replace it with a better one. Even 
 in our day the Lacantuns appear to have worshipped this very old god, at 
 least I found several broken incense vessels in the corners of the half-tumbled- 
 down room. The legs are close together, heel touching heel, and the feet 
 are spread apart. The on]y portion of the garment covering this god, which 
 can be detected, is the edges crossing over one another at the knee. There 
 is no other trace of a girdle, collar, or other article of attire. The head was 
 surmounted by a head-dress of some kind, but no detail or outlines of 
 feather-work can be distinguished. The god holds in his right hand a thick 
 staff having a rude scroll at the bottom, but the upper 
 end is tipped with a grotesque face. The left arm rests 
 against his breast (Fig. 31). 
 
 IJniel 1 (Plate XXXV). This lintel is sculptured 
 on the under side, and is the onl3' one we found here. 
 It was among the debris of the chambers on the left wing 
 of the second body of the building. The length of the 
 slab, which was broken off at one end, is 90 cm. ; breadth, 
 80 cm. ; thickness, 13 cm. The height of the entire 
 sculpture is 68 cm., but the height of the part containing 
 the figure, that is, the shallow niche, is only 51i cm. The 
 breadth of the design is 67 J cm., and that of the niche but 
 283 cm. The shallow niche occupies the central part of the 
 design, and is bordered on the right, left, and top by four 
 rows of glyphs. A military person of rank stands in this 
 niche, holding a small circular shield in his left hand, and 
 in his right hand what seems to me a quiver with bow and arrows, which 
 afso forms the border of the shallow niche. The middle portion of the war- 
 rior's body is covered with a short loin-cloth, and this is bound tight to the 
 body by means of the broad girdle, the huge bow of which falls down in 
 front. The neck is encircled by the breast-cape of bead-work, but there are 
 no face-masks. The grotesque scroll-work forming the helmet is of very 
 large proportions. It is surmounted by superabundant feather-work, whicli 
 encroaches upon the space otherwise intended for the border of four rows 
 of glyphs; it thus occupies the entire right, upper part of the quadrangular 
 sculpture, but, unfortunately, it has almost entirely scaled off. Likewise 
 the man's face and a few glyphs are destroyed by the scaling off of the 
 stone. For the rest, the warrior figure and the great majority of tlie glyphs 
 are excellently preserved, and permit the fine, careful execution to be 
 clearly recognized. Vestiges of color are no longer present. 
 
 The hieroglyphic part of the sculpture can be thus enumerated : The 
 
 FlG. iJl. bCULPTUIlE 
 
 ON Stela .3, El 
 Cayo. 
 
BUDSILHi. 89 
 
 four vertical rows on the left would contain 16 gljphs each, if the large 
 initial glyph on the left-hand upper corner did not occupy the space of four; 
 or 14 + 14 + 1 (initial glyph) + 16 + 16. The four vertical rows at the' 
 right extend from the base line to the effaced feather-work. Two of 
 the.se rows contained, I think, 8 glyphs each, and the other two 9 or more 
 glyph.s each, or about 8 + 8 + 9 + 9. The space at the top above the 
 shallow niche corresponds to six vertical rows of 4 glyphs each, but 
 since the plume of feathers has also encroached here, we can count only 
 4 + 4 + 4 + 4 + 1 + 1 glyphs. We would thus have a total of 113 
 glyphs, and it may be that there were a few more on the edges of the 
 feather-work. 
 
 Of the 113 glyphs, only about 10 are Injured by scaling off, thus about 
 100 are perfectly preserved. Of all the inscribed monuments which I di.s- 
 covered in the cities on the Dsumatsintla, this sculptured lintel from the 
 temple p.alace of El Cayo is tlie one that has the largest number of hiero- 
 glyphs, and this fortunate find affords much material for decipherment. 
 
 A .small open space surrounded by low ruins extends iu front of the 
 north side of the temple palace. In the middle of this 1 found a .sacrificial 
 round altar about 1| m. in diameter, which was broken info many pieces. 
 The .slab forming the table, which rested upon three pillars, had formerly a 
 relief on the skyward side, but this is now entirely effaced. 
 
 Searching this place of ruins for some distance in all directions, 1 found 
 several other remains, but nothing worthy of note. 
 
 VIII. 
 BUDSILHA.* 
 
 Believing that it would be best to finish our exploration of all that was 
 within reach from El Cayo, and then to pusli our way on to Yaxchilan, I 
 decided to inspect a small place of ruins on the right bank of the Budsilha. 
 This stream is a tributary of the Usumatsintla, entering on the left side. 
 Although .some men told me marvellous tales of a *o4e/-fo'o . . . miichm 
 
 fgnms . . . con gnindes plumages . . . hasia los colores se vcit todavia . . . etc., 
 I had found out that they had seen at this place only a small half-demolished 
 building. Hence, without any expectation of finding anything of special 
 interest, I nevertheless considered it necessary to explore this place of 
 ruins. 
 
 First we followed a path leading downstream from El Cayo and running 
 along the left bank of the Dsumatsintla. At first this path led past high 
 
 » End of May, 18n7. Budsil-hii = smoking water. This refers to the mist wliich forms in con- 
 nection with the fall of the water over the rooks near the eiitrance of this stream into the Usumatsintla 
 River. 
 
 MEM. PEABODY MUSEDM II. — 12 
 
90 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSISTLA VALLEY, 
 
 cliffs, through level meadows affording picturesque views of the river. 
 Later, however, it was mountainous and our progress was slow. On the 
 road my admiration was excited by a beautiful bird of the size and form of 
 a dove. Its plumage was in general green, but its breast was red. The 
 female had built its nest in a large commehen nest (com-mehen = small-animal, 
 wood-destroying insect) which was attached to a tree trunk. The eggs in 
 this bird's nest were dull rose and white. The men called the bird el sol, 
 "the.sun." We also had an opportunity to admire the magnificent purple- 
 blaclc blossoms of the clirabiug-plant which, when the flower is closed, — then 
 it is at times white and violet, — tlie people call /or de pato, and when open, 
 bonele del fraile or honele del diablo, which is not very flattering to the monk. 
 I could not learn whether the people know what kind of a head-covering the 
 devil wears. This Aristolochia gnmdijiora has probably the largest flowers of 
 Mexico. 
 
 We also crossed an abandoned Lacantun camp. The ground was thickly 
 strewed with broken cooking vessels. Among the pots, which belonged to 
 the most common kind made by these people (probably by the women), 
 there were nevertheless some which were decorated on the outside with in- 
 cised scroll-work, and this at all events showed some desire for art. 
 
 Night threatened to overtake us. Convinced that it was impossible to 
 reach the huts of the monteria " La Mar," we spent the night in the forest, 
 slinging our hammocks from tree to tree. We were drenched several times 
 by torrents of rain, and in the morning I shook with cold. I had covered my 
 precious photographic apparatus, however, ,so well with oiled cloths that it 
 was uninjured. And as we had now to cross the Budsillul, which was quite 
 deep, it did not matter how wet we were already. About noon we reached 
 the monteria " La Mar," where we were very kindly received by the major- 
 domo, Porfirio Gordillo, from Macuspana. 
 
 The huts of this monteria — which is a branch of El Cayo — lie ou both 
 sides of a brook to which the people have given the name La Mar. Li the 
 background rises a great mountain range of limestone with almost perpen- 
 dicular sides. The arroyo La Mar empties into the Leche brook (U-fse = tree 
 of leaves, the name of a certain tree which grows rapidly and has large leaves), 
 which in its turn flows into the Budsilha. 
 
 On the following day we undertook the exploration of the ruins on the 
 Bud.silha, which according to our estimate must be 6 kilometres below La 
 Mar. Several times we had to cross brooks. Penetrating with difficulty the 
 incredibly dense vegetation, we once more reached the Budsilha, which was 
 verv deep and had a rocky bed. Fortunately we found a giant tree which 
 a storm had blown down and thrown across the river, thus forming a bridge. 
 Climbing cautiously across this ape-bridge supplied to us by a favorable acci- 
 dent, we reached an abandoned monteria, the name of which, " La Amar- 
 gura," " the bitterness," survives in the memory of the wood-cutters. Here, 
 
budsilhA. 
 
 91 
 
 vvlieri! high clifl's with their wliite walls tower above the tall forest-trees, we 
 penetrated some 1| kilometres into the forest, and at last found the ruins. 
 
 The only building, still half preserved, — probably this was once a com- 
 munity-house and not a temple, — consists of two apartments : a front chamber 
 14 m. 90 cm. in length by 270 cm. wide, and a corresponding rear chamber. 
 The two entrances of the front chamber had a very wide span (230 era.), as 
 did also the two entrances leading from this to the rear chamber (186 cm.). 
 Formerly these were, therefore, spanned by wooden beams, which, as is inva- 
 riably the case, had been torn out by the destroyers of ruins, and this had 
 caused the faQade to fall. The exterior length of the building was about 
 
 Fig. 32. — Plan of Kuin at BunsiLH.i (restored). 
 
 16; m., and the exterior breadth 7 m. 80 cm. The triangular vaults are 
 strictly rectilinear and are truncated at the top. In one corner of the front 
 chamber we found several Lacantun incense vessels. The style of the exte- 
 rior of the structure seems simple and severe, and the frieze, sloping slightly 
 backwards, has lower and upper cornices formed of projecting rows of plates. 
 The building stands on a platform 3 m. above the level ground, and its facade 
 faces north. On this .side the broad stairway leads from a small esplanade, 
 surrounded by ruins, to the platform. This isolated, forgotten ruin was not 
 adapted for photographing, but I drew a small, easily understood plan to 
 remember it by (Fig. 32). 
 
 The dense forest of liigh trees, 7nonte crecido, shades the ruins, and when 
 this is the case the imderbrush is very slight and the ground is exposed for 
 
92 
 
 RESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSIXTLA VALLEY. 
 
 the most part. By thi.s the search for sculptured stones was much facilitated, 
 but was futile. Several mounds of ruins, the highest of which I imagined 
 was once the principal temple, were found ; also some large stones, which 
 were not carved. 
 
 On this expedition I caught an iguana of moderate size and of a rare spe- 
 cies, which I had not seen elsewhere. It was black, sprinkled with yellow, 
 white and gray, and had a very high crest on its head 
 and neck, which gave it a curious appearance. I also 
 noticed several times a small, pretty species of lizard 
 with a sky-blue tail. In its brown silk case attached 
 to a bush I found the chrysalis of a large nocturnal 
 butterfly, which I took with me and carefully preserved 
 until six months later, when a beautiful Attacus crept 
 forth, which I photographed for comparison with other 
 species of the same family. 
 
 The distance from the ruins to the conjunction of 
 the Bndsilha and Usumatsintla Rivers cannot be more 
 than one to two hours' journey. According to the 
 statement of the wood-cutters, the Bndsilha is said to 
 plunge over precipitous rocks in two small falls, then 
 in a larger one, into the Usumatsintla, forming beau- 
 tiful clouds of mist, which reflect the rays of the sun 
 in brilliant rainbow tints. Since it would have been 
 useless to have gone down the river to the water-fall 
 with no means of crossing the Usumatsintla in order to 
 gain a front view for a photograph, I had to forego a 
 trip thither. 
 
 On the summit of a rook, standing alone not far 
 from the waterfall, some monteros, roaming about some 
 years ago, found a small figure of hard green stone 
 (jadeite), which subsequently, through the instrumen- 
 tality of Sr. IVIejenes came into my possession at Teno- 
 sique. In ancient Mexico the manufacture of objects 
 from hard stone was the work of skilled stone-cutters, 
 and this profession descended from father to son. Cer- 
 tain villages were especially famed for such works in 
 stone, which as articles of trade were carried far and 
 wide. As such objects are indestructible, they may belong to the most 
 remote period and place, — wherever they may now be found, — and their 
 origin can be determined only by comparison. At first I was only able to 
 recognize that the little figure from the Bndsilha originated among a people 
 having a head of pronounced oblong shape. Later it proved that the shape 
 of the fiice, especially the mouth, is similar to that of the figure of the god 
 
 Fig. 3;!. — Sculpture 
 IN Jadeite, from 
 
 BUDSILH.^. 
 
LA MAB. 
 
 93 
 
 from what wiis once the prin«ipal temple of San Lorenzo on the lower Lii- 
 cantun. The little jadeite figure is 14 cm. long, and represents a man stand- 
 ing erect with his left arm against his waist and his right across his abdomen. 
 He wears a girdle (maxtli, niastli), the loop of which falls down in front. 
 Small ornaments are delicately incised on his knees and breast. He has no 
 head-covering, and there are no disks attached to his ears. The small hole 
 throngh the centre suggests that the figure may have been worn on a 
 necklace or attaclied to .some object (Fig. 33). 
 
 From the ruins on the Budsilha I returned with my men to La Mar, 
 where an important discovery awaited us. 
 
 IX. 
 
 LA MAR.* 
 
 Sr. Gordillo had told me that of late years he liad planted a 
 large field with maize, about one and a half kilometres to the south of the 
 huts of the monteria. This milperia extended over an ancient ruined city, 
 and while there were no longer any standing buildings, yet it seemed worth 
 exploring, since, where there were .so many cinjos, something of interest 
 might yet come to light. It was Sunday, the weather was glorious, and 
 as Sr. Gordillo was disengaged I accepted his friendly offer to accompany 
 us thither. 
 
 Following the brook upstream (right shore) we presently reached the 
 milperia. where in this month the shooting grain was still in the first stages 
 of its growth. Since the wdiole ground for almost one kilometre in diameter 
 had been most carefully burned out, the least remnant of the ruined city, 
 which we explored in all directions, was exposed to view. 
 
 As is invariably the case, it was evident that even the architecture of 
 the smallest cities of these remarkable people displayed artistic development, 
 exactly like that of the large cities, only on a less pretentious scale. 
 
 The architectural centre of this city was formed by two temples now in 
 rums. These temples crowned pyramids standing opposite one another: 
 the western faced east, and the front of the eastern was turned towards the 
 west. The plaza between the two temple pyramids was, in addition, bordered 
 on the north and south sides by smaller bui]ding.s, while on the other two 
 
 * End of May, 1S97. The Spaniards use the words /mr, not only for the actual ocean, but aLso 
 ■n-hen Jiey are pleased at the abundance of anything. Since the monteros (who, by the way, are not 
 people of great intelligence with high ideal aims, but people witll practical ends alone' in view) 
 believed that tliey had found much valuable wood in this territory and tlie place traversed by bubbling 
 springs looked inviting to them in other respects — there was no dearth of wild boars and deer, 
 while the forest thickets resounded with the noisy flirtations of the awlilli, tlie Crai raira and 
 the Crax iiiyer, and from every tree a juicy monkey-roast beckoned - their mouths watered, and 
 overjoyed, they called out ; Eslo si a la mur ! and gave this ridiculous name to tlieir temporary 
 settlement. 
 
94 
 
 RESEARCHES IX THE USUMATSIXTLA VALLEY. 
 
 sides some banks of eartli or elevated causewaj's adjoined tlie temple. On 
 the south structure of the temple square, fronting north, I excavated a 
 lintel which had a cross (Fig. 34 a) on its under surface, like those fomid 
 in I'iedras Negras (Fig. 26), El Cayo (Fig. 27), and later in San Lorenzo 
 (Fig. 34 6). inserted here for comparison. 
 
 Stela 1 (Plate XXXVI, 2). On the plaza itself, almost exactly in the 
 centre between the two pyramids, on a base, 1 m. high, I discovered an 
 
 interesting stela lying on the ground 
 
 Fig. 34 o. — Inciskd Df.sicn on Sto.ve Lixtel Fig. 34 i. — Carving on Rock on 
 
 - AT La Mak. Rivkr Bank, San Lorknzo. 
 
 ward in falling, was entirely worn off, but that turned downward was well 
 preserved in spite of its low relief. 
 
 The total height (length) of the stone is 215 cm., 167 cm. of which 
 contains the sculpture, and the rest was sunk in the earth. It is 22J cm. 
 thick and TG cm. broad. The preserved broad face is divided, by a horizontal 
 raised portion resembling a bench, into two bordered fields, the upper some- 
 what higher than the lower. On the lower, two kneeling personages clad 
 in a garment like a .shirt or cloak are represented : one has his hands crossed 
 on his breast, and the other holds up in both hands a kind of pouch. The 
 lower part of the bag is ornamented with three glyphs, and the clear .space 
 between the two figures is filled with three other glyphs. 
 
 On the front bench of the upper field a personage of high rank sits 
 cross-legged, in Turkish fashion. He is arrayed in a double collar, large, 
 round ear-disks, and has wide cuffs on his wrists. The head-dress is of only 
 moderate size, but unfortunately this is destroyed for the most part, owing 
 to the fracture crossing this part of the stone. The man holds an ornamen- 
 tal pouch in his right hand, while the left rests against his hip. The entire 
 
LA MAK. 
 
 95 
 
 left side of the upper field is occupied by two vertical rows of glyphs, eleven 
 in each, making twenty-two in all. These little glyphs display fine detail and 
 come out distinctly on my ))hotograph. Of the few glyplis which are in 
 the one row at the right of the head-dress, only the two top ones are pre- 
 served. The right border of the upper field was also covered with glyphs, 
 a part of wdiich are lost owing to the break in the stone. On tlie lel't border 
 four little glyphs are discernible. There are no vestiges of color. 
 
 Stela ^ (Plate XXXVl, 1). The embankment of earth and stone 
 adjoining the north side of the western pyramid forms an elevated causeway 
 about two metres in height, with a flight of steps leading to the temple square. 
 This bore structures of smaller proportions, and here I found several smaller 
 stelte wholly weather-worn, and also a large one broken into many pieces. 
 The sculptured side of this beautiful monolith formerly faced the east, that 
 is, the plaza. The back and narrow faces were plain. In falling, the stela 
 broke into six pieces, five of which fell with the carved face to the earth, 
 and therefore the reliefs and the colors were preserved ; but the sixth, the 
 top piece, fell with the sculptured fitce .skyward, and hence was entirely 
 weather-worn and worthless. 
 
 There can be but one opinion relative to this stela, namely, that the carv- 
 ing on this stela, serving only for the ornamentation of a small city, belongs 
 to tlie most perfect creations of the Maya sculptor's art. In the attitudes, full 
 of life, of the five personages who.se pictures are preserved, in the graceful 
 outlines of the limbs drawn in various postures, in the position of the head, 
 in the accessories, and in the delicate carving in general, this stela .shows an 
 actual advance and great superiority over other works of art of these people. 
 
 The sculptured surface is divided by two horizontal base lines into 
 three fields. Three men of rank stand in the lowest, two also in the middle 
 one. and I believe that two can be also recognized in the top field, which is 
 weather-worn. 
 
 Tlie color of all the figures is bright red over the entire body. All 
 wear crossed loin-cloths, green for the most part, with large bows hanging 
 down in front, which are red and sometimes blue. The wide anklets are 
 always green ; the cuffs of some ai-e blue and of others green. All wear 
 necklaces of large dark blue and green stone bead.s, and the rectangular 
 breast disks of the two persons in the middle field are likewise dark green. 
 The color of the round ear-disks varies between dark blue and dark green. 
 On the helmet the scroll and feather work are green, but all the jaw and 
 eye designs are invariably red. Each of the five men liolds in one hand a 
 small object resembling an '-oval stone," common in all these ruins, and 
 two streamers hang from the depressed border of this object. Each of the 
 men seems to offer it to the other. As is usually the case, the clear spaces 
 on the dark-red groimd were filled with small glyphs, which were also 
 painted red. 
 
96 
 
 RESEARCHES IX THE USUJIATSIXTLA VALLEY. 
 
 There is no yellow to be seen. It may be that this color was not used, 
 or that it has disappeared. The colors, which are preserved in spite of the 
 fact that the sculptured faces of the broken pieces were sunk deep into the 
 soil, must be of indestructible mineral origin, for organic substances would 
 scarcely have endured. 
 
 For the complete understanding of this sculpture I must refer to my 
 photograph, which was patched together with difficulty. The total height 
 of the stone — inclusive of the upper piece, which is wanting on my photo- 
 graph — is 377 cm., 302 cm. of which contain the sculpture and the rest 
 for the most part was let into the ground. The average breadth is 90 to 
 95 cm. and the thickness is 17 cm. 
 
 Having finished my work in this place of ruins, which had never been 
 visited before, I had to forego the pleasant hospitality of Sr. Gordillo and 
 begin the return journey to EI Cayo, which was distant about Si km. 
 This time, however, we did not take the route leading later along the 
 Usumatsintla River, but cut across through mountain and valley. On this 
 return trip we saw many beautiful diurnal butterflies, and I was able to add 
 a few rare species to my collection. 
 
 X. 
 
 EL CHILE.* 
 
 From Tenosique to Anaite the Usumatsintla is navigable only here 
 and there, owing to dangerous rapids and rocky narrows, and it is thus 
 necessary for the traveller to advance sometimes with pack animals and 
 sonaetimes with cayucos. This renders the journey most difficult, becau.se 
 when one arrives at a place with pack animals he has no cayucos there, and 
 when he comes in cayucos he has no mules; thus my progress from El 
 Cayo to Yaxchilan was extremely difficult. From El Cayo I could hire a 
 cayuco only as far as the abandoned raonteria of ''El Chile," situated some 
 eight kilometres up stream, and from here on 1 had to travel by land to 
 Anaite, in order to avoid the very dangerous rapids between El Cayo and 
 Anaite. On reaching El Chile we settled ourselves comfortably for the 
 time being in the Casa principal, which had but recently been abandoned. 
 
 About half a kilometre down stream from this settlement on the high 
 left bank I explored a small group of ruins, the principal building of which 
 proved, after more careful examination, to be a double temple, which rested 
 with its massive substructure of three terraces against a mountain slope. 
 The lowest terrace, faced with high retaining walls, supports a second some- 
 what receding terrace, faced with sloping walls as in the first, but of less 
 
 * Mexico. Left bank of the Usumatsintla. Beginning of June, 1807. Chile in the pure 
 Mexican form is chilli (tsilji) : the Solanacea named Capsicum by the botanists. 
 
EL CHILE. 
 
 97 
 
 height, which in turn supports two, also receding, but separated, platforms, 
 again of less height than the second, and faced with vertical walls ; each of 
 these platforms being crowned by a small temple. The space between the 
 two temples measures exactly three hundred and twenty-five centimetres. 
 Both temples are exactly' alike, and consist of but one room having only one 
 entrance in front. A monumental stairway of three divisions leads from the 
 
 El il 
 
 Fit;. .35. — Tlan of Double Temple at F.l Chile (restored). 
 
 ground np to the platform of each temple. Unfortunately the temples are 
 half destroyed, but all the other parts of this interesting group of buildings 
 are distinctly and well preserved. It was not, therefore, difficult to make 
 a restored plan of the entire group, to which I refer for a better under- 
 standing (Fig. 35). 
 
 The lintels of the entrances lay among the debris. As a matter of 
 course I examined the under side of both lintels, but to my regret they had 
 no bas-reliefs. 
 
 The structure faces the north. The river flows close by below, and 
 
 MEM. PEAliOnv UDSIMTM 11. — 13 
 
98 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 its high hank iiiiords a narrow esplanade upon wliich a small massive foun- 
 dation about one and a half metres high, built of limestone slabs, forms a 
 platform, intended perhaps for sacrificing. On the north side near the 
 ground there is a sort of niche in the masonry of this platform or altar. 
 
 The left flank of the double temple faces the transverse valley running 
 along here, but adjoined to the right flank are ruins. 
 
 XI. 
 
 ANAITE II.* 
 
 A STREAM entering the Usumatsintla on the left side bears the name 
 ElArroi/o de Anaite. The halting-place at the confluence is briefly called 
 Anaite. About three kilometres inland from this halting-place lies a small 
 group of ruins, which thus far has yielded nothing of interest. I have called 
 this place Anaiie I. The dreaded rapids below Auaite, which have already- 
 cost so many human lives, are called Los Rmidales de Anaite, and a large 
 inland lake, Lu Lagiina de Anaite. To the southwest of the west end of this 
 lagoon lies a quite extensive ruined city, which I visited from El Chile and 
 to which I gave the name Anaiie II. 
 
 From El Chile inland the road led first through the transverse ravine, 
 which soon passes into a beautiful valley, the meadows of which, however, 
 at the end of the rainy season stand two metres under water. In this 
 event the valley is no longer traversable, and it is then necessary to climb 
 on rocky paths along the mountain slope on the right hand, in order to 
 enter the road once more at the end of the flooded valley. When the 
 valley has been conquered in one way or the other, then the traveller finds 
 that the path branches off on the left to Chicozapote, but if he follows the 
 path straight on, southwesterly, he reaches the western end of the lagoon 
 of Anaite, which may be five kilometres distant from El Chile. In this 
 journey we passed over a large heap of ruins, which obstructed the way. 
 The next break in the forest brought us to an e.xtensive meadow forming 
 the transition to the waters of the lake. 
 
 Before we entered the savanna, we had occasion again to admire the 
 beautiful flor de pato. This time the creeper grew around a large dead tree 
 and was full of immense blossoms in all stages of development. It was truly 
 a beautiful, fantastic sight; a picture for a fairy tale or a njagic opera. In 
 crossing the savanna I secured a rare species of serpent about two metres 
 long. It was black and thickly strewn with grains gleaming like gold. I 
 
 * Mexico. Left bank of the Usumatsintla River, about eight Ivilometres inland. Beginning 
 of June, 1897. Anaite is the name of a plant, aud it is said to refer to tiie wliite lilies (a true bulb) 
 which flourish on the banks of this river. 
 
ANAITE II, 
 
 99 
 
 gave it the tempoi-ary name of "the black serpent with golden grains." 
 We advanced to tlie water of the lagoon, the western end of which is ratlier 
 shallow and abomids in fish and turtles. My men succeeded iu catching a 
 few of the turtles, which enriched om- evening meal. They belonged to the 
 beautiful species striped black and yellow, which the Mayas call '• dsibil'ac " 
 (turtle with marking). I had previously examined this species in the 
 agiiadas in the territory of X-Kanha (s-kanha), in the south of the penin- 
 sula of Yucatan. 
 
 We saw large white and gray masses of rock, some of which were along 
 the edge of the water and others protruded froui the dark green of the 
 neighboring woods. They looked like temples and castles. We did not 
 allow ourselves, however, to be deceived by them, but took the load to a 
 miserable " galeron " (open hut), wl»ich was erected at some distance from 
 the lake for the accommodation of the neat-herds (los hoyeros) of the mon- 
 teria of El Cayo, since the oxen, when not at work, are accustomed to graze 
 on these savannas near the lagoon. Near the huts of these herdsmen there 
 is an enclosure (un corral) with a large ceiba in the centre. As it was 
 impossible to finish our work in one day we decided to camp here, that we 
 might be able to explore the neighboring ruins on the next day in a some- 
 what rested condition. I might mention incidentally that interesting diurnal 
 butterfiies of the species preferring the open fields to the closed woods 
 fluttered around our hut, among them the beautiful small black, red, and 
 blue catagramma, a few of which I was able to secure for my collection. 
 
 On the morning of the next day a guide, sent by Sr. Mejenes, appeared 
 among ns, who led us to the ruins hidden in the forest of high trees, which 
 were about two kilometres to the southwest, fn this ruin, never before 
 visited, we found many buildings now fallen down, but their massive sub- 
 structures with their walls of stone .slabs are for the most part well preserved. 
 AVith my men and the guide I explored all the buildings and the esplanades 
 most thoroughly for circular altars, stelte, and scidptured lintels, but could 
 find none. The architectural centre of Anaite II. consists of a great terrace 
 about four metres high and rectangular in shape, the retaining walls of 
 which are well preserved. On the top of this terrace are the ruins of several 
 small buildings, among them the massive substructures of two small ruined 
 temples. I regret to say that also on this tenace there were no .sculptured 
 stones. But excavations on this terrace might yield interesting results, 
 especially as the substructures of these two temples have the appearance 
 of sepulchral pyramids. Most of the other buildings are grouped around 
 the large monumental terrace. 
 
 Having finished our work in these ruin.s, we returned to El Chile. 
 
100 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USUiMATSIi^TLA VALLEY. 
 
 XII. 
 
 EL CHICOZAPOTE.* 
 
 The cliioozapote is the tree which exude.s a thiclv white mass in the 
 rainy season when large connecting V's are cut one above the other in its 
 bark. This liquid is collected in a vessel placed at tlie lowest V, and when 
 evaporated it forms the well-lvnown chewing-gum, tsictiii, tsiktin, Hispanicized 
 chicle. The collectors are called d chieleru, los chicleros, and their temporary 
 camp, una chiclena. The roundish fruit of this tree looks like a potato, the 
 meat is 3'ellowish brown and has a pleasant winey taste. The dark red- 
 brown wood belongs to the best of th'e Mexican ibrests. 
 
 One of my men had told me that when roving formerly through these 
 woods with collectors of tsapotl i-esin they had found the ruins of a large 
 city situated not far from the now-abandoned mouteria of ■■ El Chicozapote," 
 which might perhaps yield something of interest on closer examination. 
 As a result of this information, we started, carrying tlie absoUitel}' necessary 
 luggage, in the direction of the settlement of El Chicozapote. This place 
 is midway between El Chile and Anaite, being about three leagues (about 
 twelve and a half kilometres) from these two points. Tliere had been heavy 
 rains during the last nights. For almost the entire journey we had to wade 
 laboriously through water and mire. Worn out and drenched, we finally 
 reached El Chicozapote, and took up our ([uarters in one of the huts, where 
 we were at least sheltered from the rain. 
 
 To my great sorrow I had in tlie last days contracted a bad fever, 
 which now broke out with great violence. Abstaining from food for three 
 days and taking heavy doses of quinine in coffee, I succeeded in breaking 
 it up completely. In such desperate conditions — surrounded by people 
 wlio are constantly dissatisfied and grumbling — it is neces.sary to lose no 
 time in curing one's self, otherwise the case lasts for months and the system 
 is much reduced. In spite of the fact that I was very weak I undertook 
 the exploration of the ruined city. Pushing our way in a southeasterly 
 direction through the forest for about one and a half kilometres from the 
 huts of the nionteria we in fact came to a large ruined city, where many 
 remnants of buildings covered the extremely hilly tract of land. All. of 
 course, was hidden in the dark forest of high trees. 
 
 Searching the ruins in all directions we were unable to find a building 
 standing erect, nor was there an esplanade with sacrificial altars and deity- 
 stela;, since the hilly nature of the ground would not have been favorable 
 
 • Mexico. Left bank of the Usiimatsiiitla, about three or more kilometres inland. Jlirklle 
 of June, 1897. Cliieozapote in the pure Mexican (Nahuatl) form is i-hklmpoll or liconlmpntl 
 (tsiktsapotl, sikontsapotl), and its botanical name is Zapota achms. 
 
EL CHICOZAPOTE. 
 
 101 
 
 1= 
 
 for such. Finally, however, we came to a lialf-ruined building of two cham- 
 bers in a row, and to my very great satisfaction all four entrances to these 
 rooms had their respective lintels sculptured on the under side and two of 
 them still displayed their original beautiful coloration. This was a fortunate 
 and unexpected find which repaid us in some measure for the hardships wo 
 had endured. 
 
 On a terrace about two metres high, with a flight of steps leading to 
 the lower esplanade, a building rises facing the northwest, probably a temple, 
 consisting of two chambers in a line (Fig. 36). Detailed examination 
 proved that originally there was only a single chamber erected in the oldest 
 period, the interior length of which was 316 cm. and the exterior 466 cm., 
 to which at ii much later period a second 
 building had been added, forming a wing on 
 the right hand. This had an interior length 
 of 929 cm., and its exterior was 10 m. 79 cm. 
 long. Therefore, the total length of the struc- 
 ture was 15 m. 45 cm. 
 
 The frieze, which had probably been .sim- 1 | 
 
 pie and severe, had fallen off as f;ir as the I i 
 
 projecting lower cornice. The stone lintels, I'lu. 3ii. - Flan of Ru.n at El 
 however, were still in place with the excep- 
 tion of the finst (counting from the left wing to the right), which lay shat- 
 tered among the ruins. 
 
 In order to photograph the luiderscidptures, the stones had to be turned 
 80 that the sun's rays would shine upon them from the side, which we did 
 not hesitate to do, since, as I stated, the frieze had fallen down. Each of 
 the two entrances to the oldest chamber is only 65 cm. wide. The thick- 
 ness of the walls is 75 cm. For that reason the undersculptures are of 
 small dimension.s. The two entrances to the more recently built chandjer 
 were 140 and 143 cm. wide ; and hence their lintels had large and beautiful 
 undersculptures. Counting from the left wing to the right : 
 
 Lintel 1, sculptured on the wider side (Plate XXXVII, 1). Width of the 
 carved surface, 29 cm. ; height, 66 cm. I joined the broken pieces carefully 
 together, and my photograph gives as distinct a reprodnction of the archaic 
 sculpture as is possible. This consists of three parts : A hieroglyphic base, 
 on which a personage of rank sits in Turkish fashion, and the upper finish 
 formed by two horizontal rows of four glj-phs each. 
 
 The principal personage sits cross-legged, resting his left hand on his 
 knee and holding the right to his breast. The face is unfortunately much 
 weather-worn, yet I think I recognize an old h'men or magician. 
 
 Lintel sculptured on the under side [Vhiie XXXVII, 2). The width at 
 the bottom of the little field containing the .sculpture is 35 cm. ; at the top, 
 31| cm.; height, 66 cm. Total breadth of the stone, 75 cm. ; total length, 
 145 cm. 
 
102 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 This is divided into tliree parts like the sculpture on the first lintel, and 
 the hieroglyphic base is similar on both lintels. But the iigure sitting on 
 the base is very different. It is drawn partly in profile. We should not be 
 -wholly unwarranted, perhaps, in pronouncing this figure a Mictlantecntli, 
 " lord of the kingdom of the dead," or at all events a sacrificer. The figure 
 seems to hold a naked dead child under his left arm, the body and legs of 
 which are clearly distinguishable, I think, and its lifeless arms fall looselj' 
 behind. The man holds up both hands, the wrists of which aj-e ornamented 
 with cuffs; the left hand seems to be empty, but the right holds the* heart 
 torn out of the breast of the sacrificed child. A necklace of large round 
 stone beads hang.s around his neck. The face is drawn in a very peculiar 
 fashion, so that the upper part of the head from the nose upward and 
 backward seems to have the shape of a fish, and this appears to suggest 
 the hieroglyphic-phonetic meaning mi (from the Mexican michiii, mitsin = 
 fish). Projecting from the nose is an ornament, which apparently is com- 
 posed of feathers, but these are drawn somewhat wavy, so that they might 
 also be considered as littlp leaves (MiV/ = weed), thus giving the phonetic 
 value of k, ki, while their position or number would correspond to the pho- 
 netic value tlan (tlan, Hani, there exists, above it, next to it). The entire face 
 gives pictorially and phonetically the value tecutli = lord. The resultant 
 expression is miktlanlekii/li. 
 
 His head is surmoiuited by a curious design of streamers and feathers, 
 and on the left a broad object, curved at the top and bottom and forming 
 the border of the sculpture, has on its upper curve a large bird's head, so 
 drawn that the beak touches the knot of the head-dress and at the same time 
 may be regarded as the plume of feathers extending backward from the 
 knot as a counterpart, also showing a bird's head. 
 
 There is no do\ibt at all that the entire sculpture had a symbolical 
 character. In the few cases where a fish is to be recognized, it suggests 
 the idea of miclltmtemtli, if the other adjuncts are not contradictory. Should 
 my conception of this highly archaic sculpture be correct, we would have 
 ill this representation a counterpart of the death god or the sacrificial priest 
 of Sayil (Yucatan). The thought, however, is expressed in a different way, 
 but is to be read in any event according to the Mexican language and 
 not the Maya. But this does not exclude the fact that the people of the 
 lower classes may have called this personage simply C«//, kai (in the Maya 
 language, caij = fish). 
 
 The upper part of the sculpture is occupied by eight glyphs distributed 
 in two rows which are distinctly recognizable. 
 
 Of the former coating of the two undersculptures (1, 2) with stucco and 
 color, only traces of red on the edges and glyphs could be recognized. It 
 is possible that' both little reliefs were covered entirely with red without 
 accentuation by means of other colors. 
 
EL CHICOZAPOTE. 
 
 103 
 
 Lhiiel S, sculptured on the under side (Plate XXXVIII, 1). The total 
 length of the stone is 230 cm. ; total breadth, 80 cm. ; height of the sculpture, 
 inclusive of the blue edges, 140 cm. ; breadth of the same, 80 cm., the ba.s- 
 relief with its blue borders thus filling the clear space of the lintel. This 
 sculpture — the fourth, belonging to a later and more advanced period — 
 has retained its beautiful coloration in toto. The sculpture consists of two 
 parts, a hieroglyphic base on which two personages of rank engaged in 
 animated conversation are sitting cross-legged. The whole representation 
 is bordered by a blue band at the top and bottom, but not at the sides, since 
 it occupies the full breadth of the stone. 
 
 The design on the base seems to be a much conventionalized serpent's 
 face = Clin, and is colored green, yaxmn (yaskan) ; but the eyes, the nose, 
 and the upper jaw are bright red. At the left — presumably also on the 
 right, but there it has become indistinct — the hieroglyphic head design 
 shows a cylindrical object which is wound around in the centre and is 
 red and green. This cylinder is of the form which Dr. Valentine believes 
 should be considered a roll of paper, eimatl ; even the supposed thorn, itstli, 
 is sticking in the wrapper. At a pinch this could have the phonetic value 
 yaxcanitsan (yas-kan-its-an), which as a matter of fact corresponds to a city 
 name. Unfortunately, we have no reliable means of solving such rebuses. 
 
 The two men engaged in conversation are almost nude, and wear only 
 dark green and blue girdles (maxtli, mastli) and green necklaces. The color 
 of the skin of both is idealized to bright red, while the ground is dark red, 
 so that the two colors can contrast with one another. One man lias round 
 ear ornaments and the other square ; they are green in each case. One 
 wears the high bright-red cylindrical head-covering — like the calpac of the 
 modern Persian — which rests on the green forehead band of rattles. A 
 green plume projects from this cap. The other man likewise wears a red 
 head-covering but of a different shape, and a large plume of green feathers 
 also issues from its knot. The clear space between the two heads is filled 
 by a green rectangular field, probably intended to contain glyphs, but these 
 were not drawn. 
 
 Lintel 4, sculptured on the under side (Plate XXXVIII, 2). Total length 
 of the stone, 255 cm. ; height of the sculpture, inclusive of the blue band 
 forming a border at the top and bottom, 135 cm. ; breadth of the stone and 
 of the sculpture, 83 cm. Unfortunately this lintel is broken in the centre, 
 otherwise the relief with the colors is well preserved. 
 
 A bright-red bench, forming a throne, with two somewhat tapering 
 feet, stands on the blue border. On tliis throne a man of rank sits cro-ss- 
 legged in Turkish fashion, inclining slightly forward. The whole figure is 
 drawn in a very graceful and natural manner. The man wears only a 
 green girdle and for the rest is nude. Around his neck is a necklace of 
 green stone beads, with a breast di.sk also green. The round ear-ornament 
 
104 
 
 EESEAKCH?:S IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 is also green. All his skin is bright red, while the general background is 
 dark amaranth. The rattle head-band with the streamers falling backward 
 is green, while the high " Persian " cap is bright red. The phime of feathers 
 is green, as usnal. in front of the face is a long green field for glyphs, but 
 these were not drawn. 
 
 What gives the ■■ Temple of the Four Lintels Sculptured on the Under 
 side" of Chicozapote such great importance is the fact that the difference 
 between the workmanship of one epoch and that of a more recent period 
 can be clearly recognized on its bas-reliefs. Unquestionably the sculptor's 
 art had made significant progress. It lacks but little of ranking with the 
 high art of the present day. This must be acknowledged all the more since 
 in the sculptures of Chicozapote and La Mar we have to do with examples 
 of work belonging to comparatively insignificant cities, which presupjjoses 
 that progress in the development of art was general ; also, the information 
 which we gather from these reliefs relative to color is important. 
 
 It is probable that excavations in the numerous edifices of this city, 
 which are indeed in ruins although their massive substructures are for the 
 most part well preserved, would bring other sculptures to light. 
 
 It would be more convenient for a future explorer to travel by water 
 from El Cayo as far as a haltiug-place on the left shore of the Usumatsintla, 
 corresponding to these ruins, and to fasten his cayuco there and advance 
 on foot through the forests. Since a brook, El Arroyo del Chicozapote," 
 flows past these ruins, it would be well for him to look around for this 
 stream, as this would help him to find the ruined city. 
 
 Having reduced my rather severe attack of fever, my appetite returned, 
 but I was obliged to rest a few days in this camp to recover strength. My 
 men succeeded in shooting several edible birds, and we were able to supply 
 ourselves with fruit from the abandoned banana plantation, so that we were 
 not badly off. Finally the journey to Anaite, three leagues distant, was 
 accomplished. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 YAXCHILAN.* 
 
 Formerly the regions on the upper course of the river were reached 
 from Tenosique by means of forest trails which were followed as far as 
 
 • Yixchilaii = Pietlras cerdes or green clones. Yia = yas = green ; cMlan = tsilaii = that which 
 lies or is scattered about ; by extension in this particular case, stones. Yaxchilan = yax-tSilan = green 
 stones : an allusion to the greenish color caused by moss or algse on the stones in the bed of the river 
 which flows into the Usumatsintla above the mined city. The ruins are on the left bank of the 
 Usumatsintla in the State of Chiapas, Mexico. See map, Plate I, of this volume. (This group of 
 ruins has aLso been named Menche and Lorillard City.) 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 106 
 
 the Yaxchilan, a tributary stream entering the Usumatsintla on the right. 
 From the confluence of the two rivers the journey was continued in a cayuco. 
 Whoever wished to reach the ruined city had to row downstream a distance 
 of about two leagues from the point of confluence to the spot on the edge of 
 the left shore, where " the pillar," cl pilar, serves as an unmistakable 
 signpost, at least in the dry season. 
 
 I am inclined to consider this pile of stones the substructure of a small 
 temple consecrated to the water-deities, while the people of this region think 
 it is the " pier of a bridge." It stands in the middle of the stream during 
 the rainy season, and vanishes entirely when the river reaches a very high- 
 water mark. 
 
 The name of the river Ya.xchilan was extended to the ruined city, which 
 had no name at all. In order to be quite clear, people .said : las Hiiinas 
 situadas rio abajo de la desembocadm'ii del ajluente Yaxchilan. 
 
 At present the name Anaite is well known far and near. It is applied 
 to a small tributary stream on the left bank, to a station at its mouth, and to 
 the much-feared rapids some distance below ; also to a large inland lagoon, 
 and to two smaller ruined towns. The traveller who wi.shes to visit the large 
 ruined city may express himself thus: las Riiimtx an-iba de la desembocadura del 
 Arroyo de Anaite, and he will everywhere be understood. 
 
 To these ruins certain scholars have of late applied the imposing name 
 " Menche-tinamit " ! I do not remember ever having met with it in the 
 books of Reraesal, Juarros, Villagutierrc, and others. Tliis name is half 
 Maya and half Nahuatl. Mcnche is equivalent to mehenche = mehen-tse _ 
 young forest {mehen = seed, young ones, off-shoots ; che = tree). Tinamit 
 in the pure Mexican form is tenamitl = city. Hence Ileheiiche-tenamill 
 (mehentse-tenamitl) = young forest-city. 
 
 If one were to meet wood-cutters or resin-gatherers in these wild forests, 
 and to their question, g Adonde se va listed Sehor? were to answer, Yo me 
 voij d Mehimche-lcnamitl, not a soul would understand what was meant, and 
 the questioners would very likely laugh in one's face. It will therefore be 
 easily understood why I could not make up my mind to use this otherwise 
 admirable name. 
 
 I was formerly inclined to think that Yaxchilan was the Izanoanac 
 where Cortez, coming from Palenque, had crossed the Usimiatsintla (1524) 
 in the boats which the Acaltec merchant-king had placed at his disposal. 
 But I have begim to waver in this opinion, owing to the fact that there is a 
 " Canizan " below Tenosique, which .seems linguistically to be the same as 
 Izancanac. On the other hand" Cortez expressly .says, in his Letter V to the 
 Emperor Charles V, that Izancanac, the capital of the Aoalla kingdom, was 
 a monumental city like Palenque, — the ancient name of which he miswrites 
 Teotercal, Tentacras, etc., — and that he was able to quarter his troops in 
 the spacious principal buildings. This statement would apply rather to 
 
 MEM. PEABODY MUSEDM II. — 14 
 
106 
 
 EESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSIXTLA VALLEY. 
 
 Yaxcliilan than to Canizan, where, it is said, mounds of eartli [ciit/os] are still 
 to be found, but no stone structures of any importance exist. 
 
 The passage in Cortez's account of Izancanac runs thus: . . . luis/a que 
 Uegamos al pueblo que sc llama Isancanac, el cual es muij gruiide y de muclias 
 mezquitas, y esid en la ribera de itn gran estero que atraviesa hasta el puerto de 
 Terminos de Xiccdlanco ij Tabasco, — "until we came to the place which is 
 called Izancanac, which is very large and has many temples, and is situated 
 on the bank of a great river, which flows to the Bay of Terminos de 
 Xicallanco and to Tabasco." 
 
 Bernal Diaz, who accompanied Cortez on his expedition to Honduras, quite 
 forgot the city in his confused account; he only remembers that the place on 
 the Usumatsintla where he spent the night lay at the foot of high mountains ! 
 Now there are no mountains from Xicallanco to the Boca del Cerro, above 
 Tenosique, where the river intersects the mountain range, and from Canizan 
 Bernal Diaz could only have seen the Serrania, which he mention.s, in the 
 far distance. 
 
 I am convinced, however, that our Yaxchilan is the ruined city discov- 
 ered by the IVTaestro de Campo Alzayaga, close to the banks of the Usumat- 
 sintla, when he turned into that river after having come down the Lacantun 
 with his piraguas. Alzayaga explored these rivers during the .second expe- 
 dition of the Spaniards against the Lacantuns, an account of which is given 
 by Villagutierre.* 
 
 When, at the end of the seventeenth century, Martin Ursua was prepar- 
 ing in Yucatan his expedition for the conquest of Peten-Itza, — the last 
 stronghold of the civilized Mayas, — the Captain-General of Guatemala, Don 
 Jacinto Barrios, was organizing another campaign against the Lacantuns. 
 This time three columns were to enter the country simultaneously : Capi- 
 tan Diaz de Velasco with one column from Cahabon (in the Province of 
 Vera-Paz) ; Capitan Melchor Rodriguez Mazariegos with another from 
 Huehuetenanco ; Barrios himself with a third column from Ocotsinco. 
 The three columns were to leave their several stations on the last of 
 February, 1695. 
 
 The column of Diaz de Velasco went no further than Mopan. 
 
 Rodriguez Mazariegos, in whose suite was the Padre provincial Diego 
 de Eibas, went into the wilderness by way of Istatlan and Nolasco. Upon 
 his difficult march he found many interesting ruins of towns and temples, 
 had several streams to cross, and finally, not far from what was presumably 
 the Rio de Ocotsinco, he came to a town inhabited by Lacantuns, on " el dia 
 de Viernes santo," t for which reason he gave the place the sonorous name, 
 " Villa de Nuestra Seiiora de los Dolores." This town had one hundred and 
 
 * " Historia de l.i Conquista de la Piovincia de el Itza y Reduccion y P^ogre^^sos de la de 
 el Lacandon," Madrid, 1700. 
 I Page 25i) ei seq. 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 107 
 
 three " casas muy buenas" : one hundred belonging to the inhabitants, two 
 large ones belonging to the commnnity, and one still larger building whicli 
 served as an "adoratorio," where the incorrigible priests, as usual, demolished 
 everything ! 
 
 Barrios, advancing with his column from Ocotsinco, after short marches 
 which consumed many days, arrived at the shores of a great lake : a la 
 ori/ki de una gran lar/una. Here they found the first Indian, whose lan- 
 guage no one understood, although people of all the nations were with 
 Barrios. Finally this column also reached Dolores, where the one coming 
 from Huehuetenanco was already encamped. 
 
 The Spaniards made great efforts to keep the Lacantuns in Dolores, the 
 latter having been, as it seems, by no means delighted with the arrival 
 of these unbidden guests. Villagutierre* tells us that Cabnal, the Cazique of 
 Dolores, complained bitterly : Que los Hspafioles eran muy desassmdos : Que 
 en la mediaciun de las Casas se poman a, sus menesteres {senalandolo con mjw- 
 rarse las narizes) como si no hiwiera Monies, Campos y Sabdnas ! 
 
 In -Dolores the Spaniards constructed fifteen pirfiguas, in which to 
 go down the t-io t/rande del Lacandon.f The Maestro de Campo Alzayaga, 
 accompanied by the Padre provincial Ribas, embarked in these canoes with a 
 detachment of men (1696). These people went down the " rio grande del 
 Lacandou " and entered the broad Usumatsintla, which they followed for a 
 great distance " upstream " (probably also downstream), exploring its banks 
 on the right and on the left. On this occasion Alzayaga's men discovered (it 
 must have been in travelling downstream) an enormous ruined city, as Villa- 
 gutierre tells us : :j: — JUn otra Salida a Tierra, que hizieron alffunos de los Sol- 
 dados, dieron con mi Silio, que se conocia, aver avido en 61 PoUadon muy unt'irjuu, 
 por los miichos Cimientos de Piedra, y ruhuts antiquisimas de Edificios, que lial- 
 laron : la cual cogena mas de una lecjua de circuito, — " On the occasion of 
 another expedition on shore, which some of the soldiers undertook, they 
 arrived at a place, where it was plain that there must once have been a 
 very ancient city, owing to the great number of stone foundation-walls, and 
 enormous ancient ruins of edifices which they found ; which city must have 
 measured more than a league in circumference." 
 
 Alzayaga's ruined city is doubtless our Yaxchilan, which, lying close to 
 the bank of the river, could not have escaped the notice of the soldiers, who 
 were doubtless not allowed to withdraw far from their piraguas. From the 
 embouchure of the Lacantun to the Boca del Cerro, above Tenosique, there 
 are mountains formed of rock, consequently cities built of stone are possible 
 on this stretch of country. For a long distance upstream from the embou- 
 chure there are no rocky hills, consequently no cities built of stone. The dis- 
 tant Seibal on the left bank of the upper Usumatsintla is the first place which 
 
 • Page 310. 
 t Page 362. 
 
 I Our River Lacantriii ; also named "el Rio de Ocotsinco." 
 
108 RESEAKCHES IX THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 has ruins of stone edifices and numerous magnificent stelae. Tlie ruined city ■ 
 on tire left bank of the Usuinatsintla, near the upper side of the embouchure 
 of the Chixoy, — to which I gave the name "Altar de Sacrificios," — has earth- 
 works and no stone structures. The stones for the one circuLar altar and for 
 the very few steloe had to be brought from a distance. 
 
 On the 29th of April, 1696, after an absence of fifty-two days, Alzayaga 
 returned to Dolores with his men. 
 
 Barrios soon returned to Guatemala with the main body of his men, 
 leaving Dolores under the guardianship of the Dominican monks, for whose 
 protection a small detachment of troops remained behind. 
 
 All endeavors on the part of the Dominicans to keep the Lacantuns in 
 Dolores were futile. One family after the other withdrew, preferring the free 
 life of the tropical forest to the delights of Spanish rule. Soon the Spaniards 
 also forsook the depopulated place. To-day there is no one, I believe, in the 
 State of Chiapas, who can tell where the long-forgotten Dolores was once 
 situated. 
 
 During the sixties of the nineteenth century the Mexican Government 
 accorded to one Encarnacion Carrillo a wood-cutting privilege on the banks 
 of the Dsumatsintla in the immediate vicinity of our Yaxchilan, thus for a few 
 dollars giving up this city of magnificent ruins, probaMy unknowingly, to the 
 vandalism of a band of wood-cutters ! 
 
 When on my way from San Cristobal de Las Casas in 1877, I visited 
 Palenque — where I met Mr. Bernoulli, who was returning to Guatemala by 
 way of Tikal and Peten-Itza — I heard mention made for the first time of the 
 ruins of Yaxchilan, but at that time I was not prepared for so difficult an 
 expedition. 
 
 In the meantime — amply provided with funds by the French Govern- 
 ment and the American millionaire Lorillard — M. Desire Charnay undertook 
 an expedition to Yaxchilan in 1882. Finding on his arrival that Mr. Alfred 
 P. Maudslay had anticipated him, he limited himself to making an examina- 
 tion of the principal buildings, and to taking photographs and moulds of some 
 of the finest carved lintels. The results of his explorations are included in 
 his interesting volume " Les anciennes Villes du Nouveau Monde." 
 
 Mr. Maudslay's work at the ruins was continued for some time, and to 
 my great disappointment I found that he had removed many of the carved 
 lintels, taking them with him to England. However, I do not doubt that 
 in the splendid work now being published (Biologia Centrali-Americana, 
 Archa3ology), Mr. Maudslay will give an interesting account of the condition 
 of the ruins as he found them, and that all the sculptures at that time avail- 
 able will be reproduced by phototype process for the benefit of students. 
 
 Yaxchilan was thus far less interesting to me, and if I had not succeeded 
 in uncovering numerous steloe on the terraces and esplanades in front of the 
 templ&s, in excavating sculptured lintels lying unsuspected beneath enormous 
 
YAXOHILAN. 
 
 109 
 
 piles of debris, and in discovering tlie magnificent South Temples, my sub- 
 sequent expeditions to Yaxchilan would have been utter failures, especially as 
 some of the remaining sculptured lintels had become badly disintegrated by 
 the careless building of fires beneath them. 
 
 Not until I had explored the ruins of Seibal and Altar de Sacrificios in 
 1895, did circumstances take me to Yaxchilan, where I remained two days 
 (July 14th and loth). At that time the river was very high and only the 
 topmost stones of the little cuijo appeared above the water, so that we were 
 doubtful as to whether we had arrived at the site of the ruined city or not. 
 Fastening our cayuco to a tree and walking a short distance, we reached the 
 Templo de la Ribera, in which we took up our quarters. I took no photo- 
 graphs on this occasion, because to do so always necessitates elaborate prepa- 
 rations and incurs great expense, and I had no men and no provisions with 
 me. I limited my activity to an inspection of the principal buildings, and to 
 drawing plans of the Templo de la Ribera and of the Temple with the headless 
 figure of Ketsalkoatl. I dismissed my cayuco-men, or rogas, a short distance 
 beyond the ruined city, and went to Tenosique by land, by way of Mr. Torruco's 
 monteria, situated at this point, and of El Cayo and Piedras Negras. 
 
 When after many eventualities fate once more brought me to the 
 glorious banks of the Usumatsintla, I was able on the 30th of June, 1897, 
 to leave the monteria of Anaitg and embark in the cayuco I had borrowed, 
 with my five men and the necessary baggage, this time to undertake the 
 serious exploration of Yaxchilan. 
 
 There must have been heavy rainfalls in distant Guatemala and Eastern 
 Chiapas, for the Usumatsintla was excessively high, having risen to the 
 very edge of the high banks, which made progress up the river exceedingly 
 difficult, since the poles by which the cayuco is propelled could not reach the 
 hard bottom. Under such circumstances forked branches are made fast to 
 the end of the poles, and with these liorquetas the men seize the overhanging 
 branches of the trees and shrubs and thus push the cayuco forward, while 
 those not occupied with the poles, grasp the branches, if possible, with their 
 hands, and pull with all their might. This procedure is exceedingly laborious, 
 and progress is slow. In this manner it took us a day and a half to overcome 
 the short distance between Anaite and Yaxchilan (about thirteen kilometres). 
 When the river is m this condition no one ever attempts to go upstream, the 
 labor and the danger are too great. In point of fact, we had a terrible strug- 
 gle. We had to force our way through branches of trees projecting out of the 
 water, and often we had to use our machetes to remove the obstacles impeding 
 our way. In spite of all our exertions, we were frequently whirled round by 
 the force of the current and carried downstream. Masses of trees which 
 reached far out into the river could not be surmounted, nor powerful rapids 
 overcome, without two or three successive attempts. 
 
110 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USUIIATSIXTLA VALLEY. 
 
 The trees wliicli grow on tlie banks of the river are chiefly of the kind 
 that is here ualled huits, tlieir Aztec name being c!(«H/iXMi!C!n7 (kwaulisinikwil). 
 They liave blossoms formed of great wliite stamens and the seed forms in 
 long green pods. There are besides a great many amatl, whicli are here called 
 c/!UK(J!i (tsimon). On the low shore different kinds of grass, reeds, and yuadua 
 make up for the absence of trees. 
 
 When we rested at night we fastened our cayuco to the branches of a 
 great chimon and protected ourselves and our baggage as well as we could 
 with oiled cloths against the heavy night rains. It was not possible to go 
 on shore, as everything was flooded. At noon of the second day we finally 
 arrived at the ruined city, the location of which one of my men recognized 
 by certain signs. The cvyo on the low shore, which generally serves to mark 
 the spot, had entirely vanished vuider the water. We now breathed more 
 freely, and, glad of having thus far surmounted all difficulties, we fastened 
 our cayuco to a tree. My men admired each other as heroes, and each one 
 asserted that had it not been for him, we never could have come up the river. 
 
 In the mean time we sought shelter in the neighboring " shore temple." 
 But as the entire stone structure was soaked with rain and all the ceilings 
 dripped with moisture, my men constructed for themselves a palm-leaf hut, 
 una champa, while I, after discovering the " Labyrinth " (Edifice 19), settled 
 myself within its walls with my most important baggage, for the ceilings were 
 dry, and the great stone benches were very convenient for sleeping purposes 
 or for spreading my things out upon them. 
 
 It was rather dangerous to spend the nights quite alone in that solitary 
 ruin on account of the tigers. But fortunately we escaped all collision with 
 these felines, which are always to be greatly feared. We were so fortunate 
 as to have a month of glorious weather, which greatly lessened the difiiculties 
 of niy work among the ruins. It generally rained at night and hardly ever 
 by day. Even the Usumatsintla soon sank again to a less dangerous level. 
 But we had another trouble to contend against. Our stock of provisions had 
 run very low, because the men when living at some one else's expense eat 
 enormously and know no moderation. I therefore hastened all my prepara- 
 tions for photographing the fai^ades and sculptures. 
 
 Keeping one man to assist me, I sent the rest as soon as I could spare 
 them, in the cayuco to the nearest ranchitos to buy food, in which they were 
 only partially successful. No one in this country, upon which nature has so 
 lavishly bestowed her gifts, is willing to sell food to another. In spite of this 
 luxuriance of nature a regular famine prevailed, which naturally affected us 
 also. My men shot birds and monkeys, or frequently succeeded in catching a 
 fine large fish of the scaleless kind called pezmdo boho. In this manner we 
 got along as best we could. 
 
 Working incessantly and exploring the forest in which the extensive 
 ruined city lies, in every direction, I convinced myself that I had found 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 Ill 
 
 everything worthy of note, with the exception perhaps of objects that were 
 lying too deeply buried under the ruins. Plans were drawn of all tlie impor- 
 tant buildings. I succeeded in discovering three magnificent temples, never 
 yet visited by Europeans, at the southern end of the mountain range of tlie 
 great Acropolis. I photographed with magnesium light at night under great 
 difficulties the Imtel sculptures still in position over the entrances to the tem- 
 ples. Others, already fallen to the ground, and some wholly buried and exca- 
 vated by me, I placed in such positions that they could be photographed in 
 sunlight. I also prepared a dozen mortuary or deity stelae for photographing. 
 Of tliese stelt-B 1 found only one still in an upright position; all the others 
 had fallen to the ground ; many were broken in pieces and sunk in the earth. 
 Notwithstanding the lack of provisions which greatly hampered us, the result 
 of my explorations (July and August, 1897) may be said to have been on the 
 whole very satisfactory. Leaving the excavation of additional pieces of sculp- 
 ture for a future occasion, I returned for the time being to Yucatan by way of 
 Tenosique and El Carmen. 
 
 After I had completed my second exploration of Piedras Negras in 
 December, 1899, 1 continued my voyage up the river. In El Cayo 1 procured 
 a cayuco, had the necessary paddles made, and, leaving my animals behind, 
 embarked with my men and my baggage. 
 
 The voyage to Yaxchilan was again fraught with very great difficulties. 
 The dangerous Mciiidules de Anaiis had recently claimed several human lives. 
 Besides this, several cargoes had been sunk, the oarsmen, however, having 
 been able to save their lives. Instead of blasting away the most dangerous 
 rocks, the authorities at Tenosique preferred to forbid tlie shooting of the 
 rapids on pam of a heavy fine. As the forest trails are in an unheard of 
 condition, the pack animals cannot survi-\-e on them. It is almost an impos- 
 sibility to convey a carrja by land. In spite of all dangers, therefore, most 
 of the wood-cutting firms prefer the water-way. 
 
 I had succeeded in liringing my rather old and fragile cayuco as far as 
 the Randal grande, where we all disembarked, leaving the baggage in the 
 boat, which my men, who had climbed up on the rocks, now slowly and 
 carefully towed along by means of long ropes. It was a very difficult piece 
 of work, because the cayuco, gliding along at the foot of the sheer rock, 
 remained invisible to those handling the ropes, which had every now and 
 again to be slung over projecting angles of the rock or bushes, which threat- 
 ened to impede progress. We finally reached the last headland, down which 
 we clambered and made the cayuco fast. I then had it unloaded and e-sery- 
 thing placed on the lowest rocks, for at this point the water dashed over 
 half-concealed boulders with such force that we could not think of townig 
 the boat through with its load. The sight of the stupendous walls of rock, 
 which we had just passed, the din of the water, forced between rocks and 
 
112 
 
 KESEAKCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 rushing along at the most frightful speed, caused niy men utterly to lose 
 their heads, though they had always considered themselves excellent vot/as. 
 They were terribly frightened, and only the utmost exertion on my part had 
 brought the trembling fellows thus far. Our attempt at towing the cayuco 
 over the rapids was unsuccessful. It filled with water, the ropes broke, and, 
 dashing to pieces against the rocks, it vanished in the whirling flood. It 
 was no great loss. All my baggage, the paddles even, and my men, who 
 liad so greatly feared for their precious lives, were saved. Notwithstanding 
 the accident, we could still consider ourselves very fortunate, for we had 
 now passed the most dangerous rocky narrows and rapids. The rest of the 
 voyage henceforth offered no great dangers. 
 
 In the meantime, however, I established my camp on the rocks and sent 
 two of my men through the forest to Anaite, about two leagues distant, to 
 procure another cayuco in which to continue my voyage. They svicceeded in 
 obtaining a large one, which I afterward bought for sixty pesos, from a 
 ranchero, Jos^ Maria Jimenez, who had settled somewhat farther up the 
 river. The men were accompanied on their return by my old friend Lam- 
 berto de La Cruz of Anaite, and another cayuco arrived at the same time 
 with people on their way to El Cayo. Thus we were at last able to continue 
 oiu- voyage, though not without loss of time. 
 
 I was only half annoyed at my enforced stay of several days on the 
 rocks, for the chasm cut by the river at this point affords such a magnificent 
 sight that I was actually sorry to part from tliis scene of wild beauty. I 
 liad made good use of my time in collecting some rare specimens of butter- 
 Hies and beetle.s, and I had been successful in capturing a male and a female 
 of the great beetlS called el cornesnelo in Tabasco. This beetle is probably 
 the largest in America. It is not found in other parts of Mexico. 
 
 Guided by Lamberto de La Cruz, we now passed the rapids called El 
 Randal chico, which are smaller than those previously passed, but by no means 
 without danger. Here also a high rock had to be surmounted on foot, while 
 the cayuco was towed along by a long rope. From this point all dangfer 
 ceased. 
 
 After allowing my men a day of rest at Anaite, we continued on our 
 way to the ruins of Yaxchilan. Above Anaite the river, bordered on both 
 sides by low mountain ranges, offers a succession of magnificent views, which 
 further up are not again equalled in beauty. Arrived at the ruins, we all 
 took up our quarters in the " Labyrinth." 
 
 First of all, I turned ray attention to the terraces of the three South 
 Temples, convinced that more stelae and circular altars could be brought to 
 light there. In point of fact I succeeded in excavating nine stelsE, so that the 
 total number of stelse found by me in Yaxchilan amounted to exactly twenty. 
 
 After being convinced that it was not possible to find more stelse, — 
 unless a group of more distant buildings should some day be discovered, — 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 113 
 
 1 began a second very thorough searcli of the half and wholly ruined structures 
 for lintel-carvings. Having familiarized myself with the nrethod of construc- 
 tion employed in building the principal edifices, when drawing their several 
 plans, it was a comparatively easy matter for me to find out, even with 
 regard to the most shapeless mass of debris, whether I was dealing with a 
 structure of one, two, or three entrances, where the latter must have been, 
 and' about how far their lintel-slabs must have fallen forward in the general 
 downfall. Thus every excavation produced the sought-for lintel-.slab with 
 almost mathematical precision, without further loss of time. There only 
 remained the question as to whether it was ornamented or plain. 
 
 In this way I succeeded in excavating no less than fourteen lintels, 
 ornamented with the most interesting picture or inscription carvings imagin- 
 able, also a fragment of a fifteenth, th(3 most important part of wdrich had 
 doubtless been carried off. 
 
 As sculptured lintels are never plentiful, and one is often glad enough to 
 have found two or three, or even a single one, the result of my exploration may 
 be looked upon as very extraordinary. The number of sculptured lintels found 
 at Yaxchilan, after my second expedition, liad accordingly increased to forty- 
 six, inclusive of those that had been sawed off by previous visitors. 
 
 The work of these excavations had consumed three whole mouths, 
 January, February, and March, 1900. Then everything had been photo- 
 graphed, several paper moulds had been made, and my general plan of 
 Yaxchilan was completed. 
 
 While we actually suffered from famine during the first expedition, we 
 fared very well this time, for we had a superfluity of provisions. I had 
 brought along a little machine for grmding maize, el asteca, so that my men 
 could daily make fresh maize bread, iortillas. Jose Maria Jimenez, who had 
 settled a little way above the ruins, opposite the endionchure of the Yaxchilan. 
 from time to time brought us maize, beans, bananas, and even a little pig. 
 Besides, we frequently succeeded in shooting birds and little mammals, which 
 afforded us savory roasts. Passing cayucos occasionally sold us spirits, which 
 largely contributed toward keeping the men contented. 
 
 The present description of the ruins of Yaxchilan consists of the com- 
 bined results of my exploration of the year 1897, and those of the explora- 
 tions undertaken under the auspices of the Peabody Museum of Harvard 
 University, in 1900. Only in this way can I succeed in giving a clear and 
 complete idea of all that has hitherto been found in the ruined city. 
 
 The Usumatsintla at this point forms a large omega-like (Q) bend which 
 has a small additional curve. (See map of the river, Plate I of this volume.) 
 Upon this little addition, which is inter.sected by slight mountainous elevations, 
 lies the ruined city, the monumental structures of which are situated partly 
 on the broad, levelled, curved embankment, and partly on the hill of the 
 
 MEM. PKAHODY MOSEL'M II. — 15 
 
114 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 Great and of the Lesser Acropolis, and its northeastern slopes, and partly on 
 the foothills of an adjacent mountain range on the east, the tops of which, 
 however, are without architectural remains. 
 
 As the entire city of ruins at the present time lies hidden under giant 
 vegetation, which far exceeds that of the peninsula of Yucatan with its 
 scarcity of water, I found it extremely difficult to comprehend the ground- 
 plam In reconstructing a plan of the site, I set down the groups of build- 
 ings, as they followed one upon the other, and thus finally arrived at a clear 
 comprehension of the plan of the city (Plate XXXIX). 
 
 As it is impossible to take sight in any direction, my plan of the city 
 naturally lays no claim to be drafted on scientific principles, but for purclj' 
 practical purposes — that is, for finding all the buildings and sculptures 
 investigated by me — it is quite sufficient. 
 
 In order to avoid confusion, we will proceed as follows in enumerating 
 the l:iuildings and sculptures. 
 
 I. The Curved Embanl^ment and the Buildings on the Terraces of the 
 northwestern slope of the adjacent mountain range, which, as it were, forms 
 the southeastern termination of the embankment. 
 
 II. The chain of Temples near the foot of the northeastern slope of the 
 mountain range of the Great and the Lesser Acropolis. 
 
 III. The Second Chain of Structures, situated somewhat higher up on 
 the same slope. 
 
 IV. The Great Acropolis, which crowns the mountain ridge from the 
 Temple of the headless figure of Ketsalkoatl as far as the three South 
 Temples, 
 
 V. The Lesser Acropolis, which rises high above the right flank of the 
 Labyrinth, and is connected with the Great Acropolis by a very nuich 
 extended, saddle-shaped formation. 
 
 I. The Curved Embankment and the Buildixgs on the Terraces 
 
 OF THE NORTHWESTERN SLOPE OF THE ADJACENT MOUNTAIN RANGE. 
 
 It is probable that during the last few centuries the river has eaten away 
 about one hundred metres in width of the outer curve of the city, — that is, 
 of the first embankment, — and on the other hand has deposited soil on the 
 opposite shore belonging to Guatemala. It is therefore possible that during 
 the most flourishing period of the city, the massive little circular structure 
 — wliich was perhaps once surmounted by a small temple — stood close to 
 the low foreshore even in the rainy season, while the first embankment 
 extended to its immediate vicinity. Upon the now very much narrowed first 
 embankment there are at present no monumental buildings, but I have 
 reasons for thinking that some structures formerly stood on its edge, which, 
 in consequence of the erosion, gradually fell into the river ; for at the present 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 115 
 
 time, when the water is low, there can be seen at intervals along the rocky 
 shore great heaps of stones (among which even lintel-slabs can be distin- 
 tinguished) which are evidently the remains of buildings which once stood 
 above. 
 
 The first embankment rises about thirteen metres above the rocky bed of 
 the river, and the second — the monumental curved embankment — can be 
 reached by ascending five or six metres higher. The curved embankment 
 consists of very extensive esplanades, filled up with stones where necessary, 
 the monumental structures of which lie partly along the outer edge and 
 partly at right angles to the latter. 
 
 It should be remarked here that the ancient IVIaya cities were, as a gen- 
 eral thing, not cities of streets like the Asiatic cities, but cities of terraces. 
 Street is not contiguous to street here, but terrace to terrace. Thus the plan 
 of Yaxchilan is not based on a complex of streets, but on a system of terraces, 
 and the earthwork terraces were connected with the esplanades of the embank- 
 ments by means of stairways and other ascents. 
 
 Structure 1. The Temple of the Four Sculptured Lintels S, 6, 7, 8 (among them 
 that of the Priest with the Double Crosses). Southeast of the circular embank- 
 ment rises the adjacent mountain 
 range, the northwest slope of which 
 has been formed into great terraces, 
 upon which I found the remains of a 
 structure of considerable size. From 
 the remains of the walls I endeavored 
 to determine the ground -plan, and 
 found that the edifice must have had 
 a vestibule with three entrances in the 
 fa9ade, and two small chambers in Q 
 the rear corresponding to it, and that o s ^jp m. 
 
 there must have been a chamber with p,,., 37. — Stkucture 1 : Gr.ouNr.-pi.Ax. 
 a single entrance running the length 
 
 of each end of the building ; that is, five chambers in all (Fig. 37). 
 
 Convinced that a structure built on such a plan must have been of some 
 importance, I undertook extensive excavations along the line of the ruined 
 facade, which had fronted north-northwest, in order to find out whether the 
 three lintel-slabs, which according to my calculation must have been ljuried 
 there, were or were not ornamented on the under side. The excavations were 
 eminently successful. Three extremely interesting sculptured lintels were 
 found, to which in the general enumeration, I gave the numbers 5, 6, and 7. 
 
 An excavation on the southwest side was without result. But as the 
 chamber on that side faces a ravine, it is more than probable that its lintel 
 was not important. 
 
116 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 T]ie chamber on the northeast side was doubtless of more consequence, 
 because the terrace extends a considerable distance in that direction, and 
 shows vestiges of several lesser buildings. On this side I succeeded in finding 
 the lintel which had on its under side a finely executed piece of sculpture : 
 warriors with captives. I gave this the number 8. 
 
 The mountain rises steeply at the back of this edifice, and in front on 
 the platform, corresponding to the position of the middle entrance, I found a 
 circular altar. From this point the retaining walls reach far down to the ter- 
 race where lies the wholly ruined structure of the two lintels with inscriptions, 
 Nos. 10 and 11, and the Temple of the Halachvinic. 
 
 Lintel 6, sculptured on underside (Plate XLIX). Wliole length of stone, 
 207 cm. Height of sculpture, measured on the inside line of the border 
 (lengthwise of the stone), 86 cm. Breadth of stone, 86 cm. Breadth of 
 sculpture, measured on the inside line of the border (corresponding to the 
 breadth of the stone), 73 era. Thickness, 35-36 cm. 
 
 The stone is broken in two pieces. The sculpture, in very low relief, is 
 quite well preserved ; the colors have entirely disappeared. The scene can 
 be thus described : A woman of rank presents a little pouch containing a 
 sacrificial gift to the high priest, or Ahaucan, who holds in each hand a 
 ketsal double cross, which he stretches out toward her. The richly dressed 
 Ahaucan, as shown by my photograph, wears the high calpac-shaped priest's 
 hat, like the one on the first and second lintel pictures of the Temple of the 
 headless figure of Ketsalkoatl. On the unoccupied spaces of the background 
 are 5 + 6 + 4 glyphs. Another glyph is carved on the little pouch, which is 
 cut across by the tying string. 
 
 Without wishing to attribute undue importance to the occurrence of 
 crosses with the priests of the Ketsalkoatl cult, it may still be considered a 
 very fortunate coincidence that I should have found this interesting counter- 
 part to Sculptured Lintel 2 (.see p. 162). 
 
 Lintel 6, sculptured on under side (Plate L). Length of stone, 197 cm. 
 Height of sculpture (lengthwise of the stone), 89 cm. Breadth of .stone, 
 measured at base line of sculpture, 88 cm. Breadth of stone, measured at 
 top line of sculpture, 81 cm. Breadth of sculpture, measured at base line, 80 
 cm. Breadth of sculpture, measured at top line, 73 cm. 
 
 A richly dressed personage, wearing the tiger-helmet on his head, holds 
 in his right hand the fleshless leg of a bird of prey (claw-footed sceptre) 
 and in his left a cone-shaped standard, upon the truncated top of which is 
 enthroned a little image. Of the three medallions on the cape of scales worn 
 by the principal personage, the middle one shows a peculiar mannnal. The 
 death-mask (?) at the girdle is also remarkable. 
 
 While the principal personage is represented in front view with head in 
 profile, the second figure is drawn entirely in profile. This second man of 
 rank holds in his right hand a kind of plate, and in his left also the claw- 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 117 
 
 footed sceptre. It should also be stated that a little fish springs from the 
 figure on the standard toward the helmet of the second personage of rank. 
 On the background there are 7 + 7 glyphs. 
 
 In spite of the fact that this remarkable piece of sculpture fell face 
 upward when the facade broke down, it is very well preserved, protected as 
 it was by the mass of debris, the colors alone having been effaced. 
 
 The Americanists who follow up my work should compare Lintel 0 with 
 Lintel 43 (Plate LXVII). These lintels differ in some respects, while in 
 others they show a remarkable agreement. The principal personage of Lintel 
 43 is doubtless identical with the one on Lintel 6, but the second personage 
 on the former is a woman. 
 
 Lintel 7, sculptured on mider side (Plate LI). Length of stone, 230 cm. 
 Height of sculpture (lengthwise of the stone), 88 cm. Breadth of stone, 88 
 cm. Breadth of sculpture, 76 cm. Thickness of stone, 37 cm. 
 
 This enormous stone has not the fine grain of the other three, and shows 
 irregularities which the sculptor filled out with hard stucco. The sculpture 
 has also been somewhat effaced by moisture, but it is nevertheless quite dis- 
 tinct. The colors have disappeared. 
 
 The representation can be thus described : A woman of rank presents 
 the little pouch with the sacrificial gift to the Ahaucan. who holds toward 
 her a little idol. This idol is grasped by the leg which, as usual, extends 
 forward in the form of a serpent. 
 
 The Ahaucan wears a great helmet formed of spiral scrolls. Glj'phs on 
 background 8 + 2 + 3 (? 4). 
 
 Lintel 8, seuljjtiired on under side (Plate LII). Fi-om the northeastern 
 chamber. Former length of stone, about 192 cm. Height of sculpture, 
 measured on inside line of border, lengthwise of the stone, 78 cm. Breadth 
 of stone, 99 cm. Breadth of sculpture, measured on the inner line of border, 
 87 cm. Thickness of stone, 30 cm. 
 
 When the facade broke down, the scvdptured under side of this lintel fell 
 so that it lay concavely over the ground. Covered with the most delicate 
 moss, it looked like a work of art executed in green oxydized copper. As the 
 relief projects but a few millimetres from the background, it was effective 
 only after the stone had been set up, when the rays of the sun fell upon it at 
 a very acute angle, and then, owing to its dark green color, it presented a 
 beautiful and artistic appearance. 
 
 The sculpture represents two warriors who have each taken a prisoner. 
 One of the warriors with his right hand holds by the left wrist his captive, 
 who has fallen to the ground ; in his left hand he holds a handsome lance 
 with a saw-toothed stone blade and feather pendants. The other warrior 
 holds with his right hand a kneeling captive by the hair, and with his left 
 he seems to strike him on the back. Each captive has a glyph incised upon 
 the thigh turned toward the front of the picture. On the background are 
 4-1-5 + 3 glyphs. 
 
118 
 
 RESEARCHES IX THE USUIIATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 On the terrace, which runs in a northeasterly chrection along the side of 
 the mountain, are the ruins of several lesser striiotitres. Near what miglit be 
 called the last structure of this series, two great lintels projected out of the 
 debris, but they were w'itliout sculptures of any kind. 
 
 Striidm'e The Temple of the Halachvinic with Lintel 0. At the foot of 
 the retaining walls and steps of the terrace of the Temple of the Priest with 
 the Double Crosses, there is a low terrace upon which in 1897 I had already 
 excavated two lintels with inscriptions. Subjecting this terrace to a second 
 thorougli investigation (in 1900), I concluded to attack with niy men a small 
 mound of rubbish, which in my opinion must be the remains of a small 
 temple of only one chamber, and with a single entrance. The fagade of the 
 structure was turned almost exactly toward the magnetic north, of which I 
 very soon foinid corroborative proof. I had fixed upon the middle of the 
 north side for the excavation, and scarcely had the rubbish been cleared away 
 to the depth of 1 m., when my men came upon the lower cornice of the 
 broken-down frieze of the fagade. Directly under it a large lintel stretched 
 across the ruined entrance. We at once passed our fingers over the under side 
 of the slab, and assured ourselves that it was ornamented with sculpture in 
 low relief. Great pieces of red stucco, with which the frieze had been orna- 
 mented, made their appearance as the excavation proceeded. The exterior of 
 this little temple had doubtless been very elaborately ornamented, and had been 
 resplendent in bright red. Even tinder the lintel, protected against falling 
 stones and the rain, we found two cliarming little heads in stucco, surrounded 
 by ornamentation (shown on top of altar, Plate LXXX, 2). These were 
 white and unfortunately exceedingly fragile. We turned the heavy lintel 
 with great care onto one of its narrow sides, in a position to catch the stin's 
 rays at least at a certain hour of the day, after some interfering trees had 
 been felled. 
 
 Lintel 9, sculptured on under siele (Plate LIIl). Length of stone, 227 
 cm. Height of sculpture, measured on tlie inside line of the border, length- 
 wise of the stone, 98 cm. Breadth of stone on sculptured face, 75 cm. (Tlie 
 back measures a little more.) Middle breadth of sculpture, measured inside 
 the border, 65 cm. Thickness, 36 cm. 
 
 This piece of sculptitre, taken from the most insignificant pile of rtdjljish 
 imaginable, 1 consider the finest of all I fotiud in Yilxchilan. It was execttted 
 in the finest of fine-grained limestone of an agreeable light-yellow color, and 
 looked as new as if it had just left the hands of the sculptor. Only the face 
 of the second personage of rank was somewhat oxidized or affected by mois- 
 ture. The work is of extraordinary delicacy, and the general projection of 
 the relief is not more than 1 cm. As this low relief was completely concealed 
 and protected, — hence could not have been suljjected to rubbing off, to having 
 moulds talcen, and to calcination by ignorant explorers, — and still had no 
 
YAXCHILAX. 
 
 119 
 
 visible trace of color, I am inclined to think that the artist preferred to retain 
 the natural yellow color of the stone. 
 
 The Hahichnnic (halatswinik) or generalissimo, who, with the exception 
 of his face, is represented in front view, holds with his right hand what I 
 am inclined to consider as a quiver with bow and arrows toward a second 
 chief, represented quite in profile, who on his part extends with his left hand 
 a similar object or quiver with bow and arrows toward the generalissimo. 
 The Halachvinic, very richly adorned, wears below the breast-cape of bead- 
 work a large horizontal breastplate, below which appears a large medallion 
 with a little mammal represented upon it. From the shoulders of the 
 Halachvinic hangs down to his thigh a pendent ornament of cords, to 
 which are attached five human heads, and a sixth head attached to an inter- 
 vening pendant fills out the background below the mammal medallion. All 
 these heads of slain enemies hang with the crowns downward. Tlie gigantic 
 helmet of the Halachvinic has two conventionalized faces on the lower part, 
 and to the front is attached the little figure of a man holding out a small 
 human head with both hands. A serpent's head rises up from the top of the 
 helmet, and an elaboration of feathers falls down at the back. 
 
 The second chief, adorned almost as richly as the first, but not hung 
 with human heads, also wears a towering helmet, out of which rises a serpent 
 corresponding to that of the generalissimo, while close under the jaws of the 
 serpent (that is, on the front of the helmet), is a delicately executed human 
 head, likewise corresponding to the little figure on the other helmet. The 
 background is filled out with 4 + 8 + 4 glyphs. 
 
 On the upper platform of South Temple 111, 1 excavated a stela to 
 which 1 gave the number 16. Upon the side destined for human figures 
 there is also a Halachvinic adorned and hung with human heads in a 
 manner similar to the one described alcove. The picture of the little mam- 
 mal on the medallion has unfortunately become so indistinct that it is 
 impossible to decide whether or not it is identical with the one on the lintel. 
 Hence it cannot be determined whether the second Halachvinic-figure rep- 
 resents the same personage as the one on the lintel, or merely one of equal 
 rank. In the former case it might be assumed that the Halachvinic of the 
 lintel lies buried on the platform of the temple to which the lintel be- 
 longs. At all events, I would recommend a comparative examination of the 
 two reliefs. 
 
 Structure S. The {vanished) Strv.cfiire of Lintels 10 and 11. Near the 
 Temple of the Halachvinic, in an easterly direction, I noticed certain ruins, 
 which were, however, so interwoven with a powerful network of roots that 
 I was forced to give up all idea of making an excavation among them. 
 
 Near the west side of the temple there must formerly have stood a little 
 edifice, which may have been of masonry, but cannot have been roofed over 
 
120 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USUIIATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 with stone ; the roof must have been of some perishable material (beams and 
 palm leaves). Only thus can the fact be explained that there was scarcelj' 
 any other debris to be found on the spot, where I excavated the two half- 
 buried lintels, for a broken-down stone roof always leaves a large heap 
 of ruins. 
 
 Lintel 10, sculptured on under side (Plate LIV). Length of stone, 187 
 cm. Height of sculpture, TT-J cm. Breadth of stone, 85 cm. Breadth of 
 sculpture, 73 cm. Thickness, only 23 cm. Tlie slab had fallen with its 
 sculptured face downward, and therefore the glyphs were remarkably well 
 preserved. Every trace of red color, however, had entirely disappeared. 
 
 No less than forty-eight characters, divided into six perpendicular rows 
 of eight each, ornament the under side of the slab. iNIost of what I assume 
 to be the forty-eight pictographic characters are so comprehensive in their 
 design that they seem to be composed of two or four glyphs, and this being 
 the case there would then be about a hundred or a hundred and fifty glyphs 
 on the under side of the slab. Accordingly, this inscription would be the 
 most comprehensive one of all those I found in Yilxchilan. The photograph 
 I took in 1897, in a passing gleam of sunlight, reproduces all the details 
 witli astonishing fidelity. 
 
 The second lintel — to which I gave the number 11 — had unfortu- 
 nately fallen with its sculptured side up. Its glyphs were therefore so badly 
 weatherworn that only a faint outline could still be discerned. 
 
 Structure Jf. A descent of only a few metres brings one from the terrace 
 of the Temple of the Halachvinic to the esplanade of the curved embank- 
 ment, which is terminated at that point by an oblong structure transversely 
 placed. This fniilding has a massive substructure with a stairway in the 
 middle of the facade which fronts west. The stairway leads to the terrace, 
 which affords a certain amount of space in front and around the actual 
 superstructure, now entirely in ruins. The superstructure does not seem to 
 have been very massive, and I hardly think that the chambers were roofed 
 over with stone masonry. At any rate the entrances had no heavy stone 
 lintels, and probably only wooden beams were used. On the esplanade, in- 
 front of the stairway, I found a circidar stone altar. 
 
 The entire space between the fourth structure and the Temple of the 
 Bird Sacrifices is thickly strewn with the ruins of very small constructions, 
 and numerous circular altars set up here and there, near which, however, no 
 stela; could be found. 
 
 I am inclined to think that these circular altars were set up over the 
 graves of personages of a certain rank and upon them were placed clay 
 images, which represented the deceased, and also vessels containing sacri- 
 ficial gifts and incense gum (cojialli) deposited in grateful remembrance by 
 the family and friends. 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 121 
 
 Near some of these circular stones we made some slight excavations. 
 We did not, it is true, come upon actual graves, probably because we did not 
 dig deep enough, but we invariably found numerous shards, chiefly of pottery 
 vessels with projecting points, which I called " toothed vessels." I could not 
 .succeed in putting together an entire " toothed vessel," but the general shape 
 could be conjectured from the great number of fragments which we found. 
 We also found fragments of large clay images or richly decorated figure- 
 vessels. Tlie most interesting object which we found, however, were frag- 
 ments of a figure-vessel of yellow pottery of exceedingly fine workmanship. 
 The figures of this vessel, grouped in attitudes of the liveliest action, and 
 the borders of the glyphs, have a projection of scarcely 1 to 2 millimetres. 
 Vessels of this kind, among which there are probably some •' battle vases," 
 are the most beautiful productions of Yaxchilan potter's art. 
 
 Stela 3. Advancing in a northwesterly direction from the stairway of 
 Structure 4, and keeping as far as possible in the middle of the esplanade, 
 one comes upon a huge, broken stela, to which I gave the number 3. With 
 the aid of my men I had to dig out the pieces, which were partly sunk in 
 the earth before they could be set up to be photographed. The attempt 
 to set up the lowest large and exceedingly broad fragment on one of its 
 narrow side faces actually endangered the lives of my men. But by prop- 
 ping it carefully and raising it slowly with the windlass, capable of raising 
 five tons, which we had brought with us, the operation was successful after 
 failing three times. 
 
 The stone formerly stood upon a platform and had a circular altar m 
 front and one at the back. Inasmuch as the part of the curved embank- 
 ment which is adorned by the giant stela lies directly in front of the Bird 
 Temple, the stela in question must be considered as belonging to that temple, 
 even though it is at a considerable distance from it, while the other four 
 steliB (Nos. 4, 5, 6, and 7) belonging to the same temple stood on the edge of 
 its first terrace. 
 
 Breadth of stone, 177 cm. Thickness, 20 cm. Length (or height) of 
 the lowest piece, 260 cm., of which IDS cm. are occupied by the smooth 
 panel. The total height of the stone may have been fully four metres. 
 
 The side with human figures fronting the river lay face upward after 
 the stela had fallen, and was consequently quite worn away by the elements. 
 It can be recognized with great difticulty after careful examination that the 
 sculpture on that side represented what appears to be three standing figures 
 and a crouching one. The "deity side" formerly facing the temple had 
 fallen face downward and was therefore remarkably well preserved, except- 
 ing, of course, the shattered upper part. The hard, fine-grained limestone 
 was of a warm dull shade of yellow. The beautiful work looked like new. 
 There were no traces of color left, and the narrow side faces had no 
 glyphs. 
 
 MEM, rEARODV 
 
122 
 
 EESEAECHES IX THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 I only succeeded in fitting together the large, lowest piece with the next 
 two belonging to it, thus completing the stela from the breast of tlie three 
 personages downward, which I photographed. 
 
 The representation on the " deity side " shows us Ket- 
 salkoatl as a beneficent deity, as is usual on the stelse of 
 Yaxchilan. He holds with both hands the "string of joys," 
 ornamented with little heads of bees and bordered with 
 cocoa-beans, which has just been taken from the chest of 
 good fortune " at his feet. Before him and behind him 
 stand a man and a woman stretching out their hands to 
 receive benefactions. The three figures are drawn in pi-o- 
 file, and between the woman and the god there is a vertical 
 row of seven large glyphs (Fig. 38). 
 
 Stnidure 6. Tlie Structure of the great Hierogli/phic 
 Sttmmnj. Turning from Stela 3 and proceeding toward 
 the edge of the high shore, we come to a massive structure, 
 the front of which, facing the curved embankment, has a 
 monumental flight of stone steps, the risers of which are or- 
 namented with glyphs. The stairway leads up to a great 
 terrace, which is formed by tlie massive substructure. The 
 front part of the terrace seems to have formed the espla- 
 nade ; along the rear portion there are several low ruins, 
 and from this point the ground slopes far down to the river. 
 At the extreme right wing of the hieroglyphic stairway 
 stands a circular altar. This hieroglyphic stairway of Struc- 
 MENTs OF Stela 3. ture 5 of Yaxchilan is the most magnificent one I have ever 
 seen. Unfortunately some of the steps are quite out of order, 
 and many of the glyphs are weathered, but a great many of them are still 
 fairly recognizable. 
 
 The plan of Structure 5 resembles that of Structures 4 and 8 and of cer- 
 tain others. There is not the slightest doubt that the type of these structures 
 differs fundamentally from that of the temples. The terraces, in spite of their 
 massive substructures, very evidently bore no buildings of importance. It is 
 possible that the superstructures were community-houses (eal/nilli) or houses 
 of justice (tlatocau), or that instead of great temples, only little temples (iem- 
 pletes) adorned the terraces. In the latter case it is possible that the massive 
 substructures contained burial chambers. 
 
 Structure 6. The Red Temjile on tlie Shore, or El Templo de la Eihera 
 (Plate XL, 1, and Fig. 39). Those who visit Yaxchilan generally land where 
 the heap of stones on the low, left-hand shore is an indication, at least in the 
 dry season, that the ruined city has been reached. Ascending the embank- 
 
YAXCHILAX. 
 
 123 
 
 ment at the right place, a few steps will bring one to the edifice crowned by 
 a superstructure, which I have called "The Red Temple on the Shore." In 
 this enumeration I have given it the sixth place, since a passage of only a 
 few metres in width lies between it and Structure 5. 
 
 The north-northeast facade looking toward the river has three entrances, 
 which lead into a chamber 890 cm. in length and only 104 cm. in breadth. 
 The vaulted ceiling of this chamber has the shape of a wedge-shaped arch 
 slightly truncated at the apex, and each of the ratlier wide entrances — the 
 middle one, 170 cm., and the other two, 125 cm. each — were formerly 
 spanned by two wooden beams, which were long ago torn out. 
 
 Fig. 39. —Stiiucture 6; Sf.ctiox and (Iround-i-l.un [re.stoi-ecl). 
 
 In this chamber in 1895, 1 found four perfectly new incense vessels. 
 Shards of such vessels can be found in all the apartments of this structure, 
 and also in the windows of the superstructure. 
 
 I shall here givq a description of the fai^ade on this side of the building, 
 since the one on the south-southwest side doubtless resembles it, but is in a 
 ' much more advanced state of demolition. The base of the facade walls as 
 well as the principal surfaces are quite plain, except that the latter are diver- 
 sified — as can be seen in my drawing of the plan — by engaged pillars 
 projecting very slightly. The frieze is very richly ornamented, its "serpent- 
 head decoration " recalling the magnificent structures of Yucatan. As to the 
 lower and upper cornices of the friezes of most of the buildings on the Usu- 
 matsintla, I shall not be able to describe them as minutely as I did those of 
 the Yucatec structures, because in this part of the country only the first ele- 
 ment — that is, the projecting, slanting course of stones — can be plainly 
 
124 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 distinguished, while the other elements, consisting of thin slabs of stone 
 covered with stucco, have assumed very indefinite shape in the course of 
 demolition. 
 
 In regard to the frieze of the Shore Temple, I think it had no sharply 
 defined upper and low cornices, but, projecting beyond the wall surfaces, it 
 immediately developed its ornamentation, which consisted of three large ser- 
 pent-heads executed in stone and stucco, — the largest one over the middle 
 entrance, the two of lesser size over the unbroken wall surfaces to the right 
 and left near the side entrances. Between the three projecting principal 
 heads (the middle one of which can be seen distinctly on my photograph here 
 reproduced) there were low and broad niches, also containing fantastic but 
 more receding faces. 
 
 The friezes on the two narrow ends of the building probably had no 
 large head decorations, only niches, but were nevertheless ornamented with 
 faces and scroll-work. 
 
 We will now turn to the vestibule on the south-southwest side. This 
 hall is 910 cm. long by 192 cm. broad. The arch of the vaulted ceiling has 
 pleasing lines and is slightly flattened at the apex. Three wide entrances 
 once led into this chamber, — the middle entrance, 170 cm., and the two 
 others 140 cm. wide. But probably owing to the great age of the building 
 and the powerful lateral pressure of the vault, increased by the weight of the 
 superstructure, cracks and apertures made their appearance, whereat the people 
 lost confidence in the strength of the southwest wall, and walled up the three 
 entrances, after having removed the wooden beams. In place of the three 
 entrances a door, 80 cm. wide, was broken through each of the narrow ends 
 of the building. By this means the vestibule of this temple no doubt lost a 
 good deal of its distinction, and the rear chamber, notwithstanding its wide 
 entrance, was darkened. This entrance is 190 cm. wide and was formerly 
 spanned by three wooden beams, which have long since been torn ont by mis- 
 chievous hands. The rear chamber is 117 cm. broad by 864 cm. long. 
 
 This monumental building is particularly interesting, owing to its sin- 
 gular, hollow superstructure in two bodies, the lowest of which is well pre- 
 served, while the upper one. is completely broken down. Two parallel walls 
 with stepped sides, inclining towards each other, 146 cm. apart at the base 
 and perforated by windows, form a covered, airy upper story, — no inconsid- 
 erable architectural achievement for the time. 
 
 The mined upper superstructure was presumably built on the same plan 
 as the first. Whether or not a third body once crowned the whole structure, 
 cannot now be determined. The windows in the longitudinal walls are of 
 two sizes, arranged in six vertical rows, as seen in the photograph, Plate XL, 
 1. The plain wall-surface between the two central rows of large windows 
 was probably once ornamented with figures. The narrow ends of the hol- 
 low structure were quite open toward tlie top, having below only a kind 
 
YAXCHILAN. 125 
 
 of breastwork perforated by three narrow windows and tliree openings un- 
 derneath tlie latter, as I proved to my satisfaction from certain remaining 
 indications. 
 
 Length of temple, 11 m. 46 cm. Breadth of temple, 8 m. 29 cm. Height, 
 without superstructure, 5 m. Height of superstructure still remaining, i m. 
 The total height of the edifice must once have been about 1.3 m. 
 
 A careful examination proved that all the exterior parts, principal wall 
 surfaces, friezes, and superstructures had once been colored bright red, Avhile 
 the chambers, as usual, show only white stucco. 
 
 One can easily imagine what a fantastic spectacle this bright red temple 
 with its airy superstructure must have afforded during the most flourishing 
 period of the city, in the blaze of the tropical sun, while at nocturnal feasts 
 numerous firebrands and incense vessels shed abroad their light from the 
 windows above. My plan, together with the photograph of the northeast 
 facade, gives a fairly good idea of this edifice. 
 
 Structure 7. Separated by a passageway scarcely five metres in breadth 
 from the northwest narrow end of the Red Shore Temple, stands a neighbor- 
 ing temple consisting of only two chambers placed back to back. Each 
 chamber, on its fagade side, has three entrances, once spanned by wooden 
 beams, and a connecting door in the middle of the partition wall. The 
 pretty ogive vaults of the two chambers are slightly truncated at the apex. 
 The exterior of the building is very much impaired, the frieze alone, with 
 its niches on the northwest narrow end, being still in a state of partial 
 preservation. 
 
 As the partition wall between the two chambers is very thick, it is justi- 
 fiable to conclude that it once supported a perforated roof-comb. 
 
 Structure 8. The curved embankment is intersedted by a long structure 
 placed at right angles to the south-southwest side of Structure 7. It has a 
 massive substructure with a central stairway on the side of the northwest 
 faqado. As this structure is of the same type as Structures 4 and 5, I shall 
 not describe it further. 
 
 Structure 9. Returning from Structure 8 to the line on which stand 
 Structures 5, 6, and 7, we come to Structure 9, the southeastern narrow end of 
 which is separated by only a narrow space from the northwestern end of 
 Structure 7. The fa9ade of this wholly demolished building fronted south- 
 southwest ; that is, it faced the esplanade of the curved embankment. On 
 this side I could prove to my satisfaction that there had been three entrances. 
 Whether these all belonged to a single vestibule, or to three chambers into 
 which the latter had been divided, I could not determine. It is possible also 
 that the structure had rear chambers. 
 
126 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USUltATSIXTLA VALLEY. 
 
 Fig. 40. — Column 
 IN Front op Struc- 
 
 TUUF. 9. 
 
 The three lintels of the entrances, which were excavated from ainonc 
 the ruins and examined, proved to be without sculpture. Upon the terrace 
 before the central doorway I found a large circular altar, 
 and a few steps farther a once pretty column with a lattice- 
 work design, forming raised and sunken surfaces. Upon 
 the raised surfaces I think I discovered traces of small 
 designs, but so weathered it was impossible to recognize 
 anything definitely (Fig. 40). 
 
 Btda 1 (Plate LXIX). If an imaginary line should 
 be drawn from the central doorway, or from the great cir- 
 cular altar of Structure 9, to the middle entrance of the 
 Temple of the headless figure of Ketsalkoatl (Structure 33), 
 which covers the opposite eminence, this line would corre- 
 spond with the centre of the whole plan of that imposing 
 structure. Leaving the circular altar and the lattice-work column and pro"- 
 ceednig in the direction of the imaginary line, one comes to one of the most 
 magnificent stelae in Yaxchilan, to which in my general enumeration I have 
 given the number 1. If the whole plan of the Temple of Ketsalkoatl is 
 rightly comprehended, this stela should be considered as a part of it, though 
 standnig on the circular embankment, inasmuch as this part of the embank- 
 ment forms the lower esplanade of the temple. 
 
 Pursuing this imaginary line somewhat farther, a great atone stairway 
 will be reached, which must be regarded as the lowest stairway belonging to 
 the temple in question. Upon the platform of this stairway stands Stela 2° — 
 tlie warrior with tlie arms cut off. 
 
 In connection with the description of Stela 1, it will be well to remark 
 once for all that the steliB of Yaxchilan which may be regarded as mortuary 
 
 monuments have one wide side devoted to the memory of a person of rank, 
 
 generally some great warrior with his prisoner, — while the other is reserved 
 for the representation of a divinity (Ketsalkoatl ?), — generally a beneficent 
 god distributing the good things of life to supplicants. I, therefore, for 
 brevity call one side the human side, and the other Uie deity side. 
 
 The deity side of the Yaxchilan stelic leUhout exception faced the temple 
 to which it pertained, while the human side was turned toward the city 
 or the people. In other words, whoever leant his back against the temple 
 facade saw the deity side of the stelaj, but whoever looked at the fagade from 
 a distance saw the human side of the stelsB. 
 
 I would further remark that the low relief of the human side, though 
 very nicely executed, shows as a rule less projection than that of the deity 
 side, the work of the latter side being invariably much bolder. 
 
 The fallen giant Stela 1, formerly stood upon the platform of a little sub- 
 structure, before each of the longitudinal sides of which a circular altar was 
 set up. The diameter of these altars was not great, but they are quite high. 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 127 
 
 There must also have been a reptile stone of considerable length at each of 
 the narrow ends of the substructure. On one of these stones the head of 
 the reptile is stretched forward in the natural position, while on the other it 
 is treated lilie a human death's-head, and stands erect (like that of a sphmx). 
 The mouth of the death's-head is sealed with the nose-tablet, a sign that the 
 stela serves as a memento to a departed soul, who in life may have borne 
 the name Ayin (Cayman), and whose lips are now forever sealed. Near this 
 cayman figure with human skull, I found the supplementary stone showmg 
 the serrated tail of the alligator. The two stones representing the reptile are 
 so badly weathered that they could not be photographed. 
 
 The huge stela in falling to the ground broke into a large lower and a 
 smaller upper piece, and between the two a very acute-angled triangular piece 
 was broken into splinters, causing a hiatus which is very much to be 
 regretted. 
 
 The deity side fell face downward and is admirably preserved, with the 
 exception, of course, of the triangular piece, and also some injuries on one of 
 the narrow side faces. The Imman side having fallen face upward is almost 
 entirely worn away by the action of the elements. 
 
 With great exertions and reinforced by Jose Maria Jimenez's men, we 
 succeeded in setting up the large lower piece on one of its narrow side faces, 
 and the photograph taken of the deity side in a favorable light turned out 
 very satisfactorily. The missing upper part was nowhere to be found in 
 spite of a careful search. Not until we explored the terrace of Structure 9 at 
 a distance of more than fifty paces, did the missing top of the stela make its 
 appearance, much to my surprise. There is not the slightest doubt in niy 
 mind that some persons, inspired for the moment by the sight of the 
 beautiful decoration which finishes the top of the stela, determined to drag 
 the fragment to the river and there put it on board of a boat. As long as 
 they could drag the stone over the level surface of the curved embankment, 
 all went well. But when they came to the high barricade formed by the 
 debris of Structure 9, they were evidently unable to drag the stone over it. 
 Before, however, they abandoned the stone to its fate, they luckily turned it 
 over, whereby the sculpture nearly completing the deity side was preserved. 
 This removal of the piece must have been many years ago, — perhaps when 
 the wood-cutters of Encarnacion Garrillo, before alluded to, made such havoc 
 among these ruins, — for I found the stone completely sunk in the eartli. 
 
 I estimated the .total height or length of the stela at about 410 cm., 75 
 cm. of which belong to the lower plain portion, for the most part sunk in the 
 platform. Breadth, 117 cm. Thicliness, 25-26 cm. 
 
 Both the narrow side faces had rows of glyphs which are now partly 
 worn away and partly broken off. 
 
 The worn-ofE flat relief on the human side displays a symbolical design 
 serving as a base, upon the upper edge of whicfi stands a personage of rank 
 
128 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USUJIATSIXTLA VALLEY. 
 
 in an upright position witli a staff of office (perliaps a lance) in his right 
 hand. Below, in front of him, also standing upright, is a kind of monkey or 
 animal with protruding snout. The upper finish of the human side of the 
 stela is formed by horizontal rows of glyphs, which are more plainly recogniz- 
 able than all the rest of the relief on this face of the stela. 
 
 As for the deity side, it has for its base a figure with an evil, distorted 
 countenance, holding in both arms a great "ornamental beam," the ends of 
 which develop into elaborate scroll-work. An expressive face-mask is at- 
 tached to the girdle, and an oval with a St. Andrew's cross to the necklace. 
 
 The fierce expression of the monster, which recalls certain east Asiatic 
 figures, is in remarkable contrast to the quiet majesty of the beneficent deity 
 standing above him. The god has taken from the chest of plaited work the 
 string (serpent ?) of joys adorned with little heads of bees and bordered with 
 beads, and is holding it out with both hands to a personage of rank who kneels 
 before him and holds up his hands to receive the gifts. Tlie god, represented 
 entirely in profile, wears high buskins, so carefully executed that the little 
 straps passing from the sole up between the toes are plainly discernible. 
 The girdle is ornamented with St. Andrew's crosses and the shoulder-cape 
 with medallions. The fracture runs obliquely through the face, and the hel- 
 met belongs to the shattered portion. The great human head 
 which tills deity always wears fastened to his back has come 
 I® l^S) especially well on my photograjih. 
 
 Above the head of the suppliant rise two vertical rows 
 of glyphs, each row containing probably eight characters. 
 Tlie great initial glyph occupying the space of four of the 
 ordinary glyphs, joins this double row above on one side. 
 Behind the god, extending the whole length of his form, there 
 Fig 41 — GiYPua another double row of glyphs, which becomes single when 
 ON Steia 1. it reaches the head attached to the back ; its topmost glyphs 
 belong to the missing portion. Of these rows behind the god 
 13 -f 10 glyphs are preserved. There are three small glyphs incised on the 
 back-ground in front of the face of the suppliant. These are not visible in 
 the plate but are shown in Fig. 41. 
 
 The unusually handsome finish at the top of the deity side is perfectly 
 preserved. An ornamental beam has on each of its drooping ends a gro- 
 tesque face looking sideways, while below the beam, attached to four glyphic 
 ovals, are two more grotesque faces looking downward. Over the middle 
 space of the ornamental beam rises the half-length image of a divinity (?) 
 whose breastplate of scroll-work has a St. Andrew's cross, and whose head is 
 adorned with an animal's head in the form of a helmet. To the right and 
 left of the half-length image are serpent ovals, in one of which the little 
 figure of a man sits cros.s-legged, and in the other the little figure of a woman, 
 each holding with both hands an ornamental beam ending as usual in gro- 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 129 
 
 tesque faces. The profile face of the little woman is particularly pretty. 
 There is thus a total of eight faces ami three personages. There were no 
 vestiges of color visible on this stela. 
 
 A comparison of the different representations of the beneficent god 
 naturally suggests itself; but there are but two other stelte, Nos. 4 and 10, 
 where the work on the deity side is as beautiful as it is on Stela 1. 
 
 Leaving Stela 1 and proceeding towards the monumental stairway, we 
 
 see not centrally placed in front of the stairs, but sideways to the left — a 
 
 great round altar with a weathered relief and a four-cornered table for sacri- 
 ficial gifts (?) the four little pillars of which are ornamented with glyphs. 
 
 Structure 10. The Palace of the Seven Chambers and the Five Seidptvred 
 Lintels, 29, SO, SI, S3, 33. Proceeding further along the line of the buildings 
 on the curved embankment, a few steps beyond Structure 9, brings ns to a 
 great terrace, which rises about four metres above the curved embankment, 
 ar-' is crowned by a whole group of edifices. The principal structure of this 
 group — shown in the accompanying sketch (Fig. 42) — I have called No. 10. 
 This pile was built at different periods. The oldest part had ouly two cham- 
 bers, — very broad ones for this style of architecture, one with three entrances, 
 and the other with two. The importance of this original structure lies for us 
 in the fact that over three of the entrances there are lintels (29, 30, 31) with 
 
 ME.M. PEAIiODY MUSEUJI II. — 17 
 
130 EESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 inscriptions of an entirely archaic cliaracter, consequently interesting to com- 
 pare with those of finer workniansliip belonging to a later epoch. 
 
 During a subsequent period a double row of chambers was added as a 
 left wing, consisting of a long, narrow gallery with five entrances in the 
 south-southwest fa9ade, and of two chambers in the rear of the gallery. The 
 back wall of the gallery is also the partition wall which separates it from the 
 two parallel chambers, each having half the length of the gallery and an en- 
 trance looking towards the river. The vaulted ceilings of these narrow 
 chambers are of a very pleasing form. All the entrances of this added wing 
 were presumably spanned by wooden beams instead of by slabs of stone. 
 
 At right angles to the corner of the facade at the third entrance to the first 
 broad chamber there was added a long narrow structure with three entrances 
 fronting east-southeast. A thin partition wall divides this structure into a 
 larger and a smaller apartment. The two entrances of the larger chamber 
 had stone lintels (32, 33) with magnificent sculpture, which I dug out of the 
 debris. 
 
 Upon the terrace behind the two broad chambers are the ruins of two 
 smaller constructions, and a slightly sunken courtyard runs parallel to the 
 chamber in the rear of the gallery. Opposite these stands a structure with 
 three small chambers, each having an entrance with a large undecorated lintel. 
 In order not to confuse this latter structure with No. 9, which resembles it, 
 we will call it Structure 11. 
 
 Lintel 29, scidpiured on the under side. This stone is still in its place 
 over the entrance, in an excellent state of preservation. Its under side 
 measures 104 cm. by 74 cm. ; as several centimetres are occupied by a border 
 which runs all around, there remain 86 cm. in height and 60 cm. in breadth 
 for the actual sculpture. Since the wall has the tremendous pres.sure of the 
 wide-spanned vault to bear, its thickness is naturally much greater than 
 74 cm. The inadequate breadth of the lintel is supplemented by pushing 
 forward a second slab to meet the vault. The inscription consists of four ver- 
 tical rows of five glyphs each ; that is, twenty glyphs in all. It is verj' well 
 preserved, but owing to the dripping of the cold stone, which constantly pre- 
 cipitates moisture, every trace of red color has disappeared. 
 
 The position of this stone being extremely awkward, it could not he 
 photographed; however, I made a careful drawing of it (Fig. 43). 
 
 Lintel SO, sculptured on the under side (Plate LX). This enormous stone 
 spanned one of the entrances of the second broad chamber, the facade of 
 which is now entirely broken down. Length, 197 cm. Breadth, 105 cm. 
 Thickness, 29 cm. The height of the inscription, according to the direction 
 in which the vertical rows of glyphs run (and lengtliwise of the stone) is 81 
 cm. Breadth of inscription (running with the breadth of the stone), 90 cm. 
 The inscription consists of four vertical rows of five glyphs each, a total of 
 twenty glyphs. It has no remains of red color, but is otherwise well preserved. 
 
YAXCHILAX. 
 
 131 
 
 Lintel 31, sculptured on the under side (Plate LXI). This ponderous 
 stone, belonging to the other entrance of the sami^chamber, was still lying 
 upon its supports in the right position, with the sculptured face downward. 
 It was quite buried under the debris of the masonry work which had moved 
 forward two metres beyond the original line of the facade. It was an ex- 
 
 FlG. 43. — Ll.NTEL 29. 
 
 tremely laborious task to set up the stone and to photograph it, especially 
 since the greatest projection of the glyphs does not exceed three millimetres. 
 
 Length, 190 cm. ; breadth, 109 cm. ; thickness, 34 cm. ; height of in- 
 scripti"- , 81 cm. ; breadth, measured inside of the border, 95-J- cm. There 
 are four vertical rows of five glyphs each, making a total of twenty glyphs. 
 Traces of red color are still visible on the border. 
 
 Lintel 33, sculptured on the under side (Plate LXII). This magnificent 
 sculptured lintel belonged to one of the entrances of the wing built at right 
 angles to the main structure. I dug it out of the debris of the facade. After 
 
132 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USOIATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 it had been carefully brushed and washed off and placed in a favorable light, 
 a fine photograph was obtained, notwithstanding the very slight projection 
 of the relief. 
 
 The free under side of the lintel measured 85 cm. by 60 cm. The actual 
 surface covered by the sculpture measured 4 cm. less on all sides, owing to 
 the border. Therefore, the height of the sculpture was 77 cm. ; breadth, 52 
 cm. (of course the stone was longer than 85 cm. by the portions that were let 
 into the masonry on the right and left). 
 
 A richly clad woman of rank brings a pouch with sacrificial gifts to 
 the Ahaucan, or high priest, who holds a little image toward her. The 
 woman wears the petticoat (enaguas), over which is thrown a cloak-like 
 garment ornamented with a handsome reticulated border. Her headdress 
 consists of a grotesque face, with a crest of feathers falling backward. 
 
 The priest is richly adorned from head to foot. Especially noticeable is 
 the girdle with the great face-masks, while a great mask also adorns the cuff 
 on the left wrist. Three small medallions containing little faces adorn the 
 breast-cape, which might also be regarded as a broad necklace. Below the 
 latter is another larger medallion crossed by the long narrow breast-plate. 
 Out of the calpac-shaped priest's hat, which has eight stripes, rise several 
 erect plumes of feathers sloping toward the back. The little image or idol 
 has a snouted face, and wears a little helmet with feathers. The leg by 
 which the priest holds it ends, as always, in a serpent stretchmg forward. 
 On the border and on the background I find 18 + 3 + 5 glyphs, — a total 
 of 26. The colors on this exceptionally fine piece of sculpture have totally 
 disappeared. 
 
 Ziiitel 33, sciilphired mi the under side (Plate LXIII). Near another 
 entrance of the same wing the equally interesting sculptured Lintel 33 was 
 excavated. Notwithstanding the fact that this stone was broken in two, it 
 was otherwise in a perfect state of preservation. 
 
 Length of stone, 175 cm. ; height of sculpture measured inside of the 
 border, 82 cm. ; breadth of stone, or of sculpture, including the border, meas- 
 ured at base-line, 65 cm. ; at top line, 70 cm. ; thickness of stone, 32 cm. 
 
 The sculpture represents a warrior of high rank, in front view, with his 
 face in profile, who holds in his right hand what I believe to be a decorated 
 quiver containing bow and arrows. Of the warrior's ornaments the most 
 noticeable are : low buskins, leg-bands with a small medallion attached to 
 each, a girdle with a border of flowers from wdiich depends a large sash orna- 
 mented with a remarkable death-mask, a breast-cape quite covered up by a 
 double row of medallions, — five smaller ones in the upper and five larger 
 ones in the lower row, all with little faces, — long, narrow breast-plate, and a 
 great medallion with a mammal (tiger ?) below it ; a large cuff on the left 
 wrist, heavily ornamented in front, which may be a bow-string guard ; large 
 ear-ornaments ; upon his head a large scroll-work helmet from which rise 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 133 
 
 serpent-lilve designs falling toward tlie front, and plumes of featliers, whicli 
 slope bacltward. The body is surrounded by radiating feathers ! I find 
 about twenty-five glyplis along tlie border. 
 
 Everywhere — on the face, on tlie niedalHons, feathers, helmet, feet, 
 background, etc. — traces of briglit red color are visible ; tlierefore, I am of 
 the opinion that the entire piece of sculpture was painted bright red, without 
 the application of any other color. 
 
 Structure 13. Tlie Structure toith the Four Sculptured Lintels : 34, 35, 86, 
 and 37. Directly opposite the northwest side of the great terrace to which 
 belong Structures 10 and 11, but below, on the general level of the embank- 
 ment, stands a small edifice, the long and narrow apartment of which had 
 four doorways on the east-southeast fac^ade. These entrances had once all 
 been adorned with sculptured lintels. This chamljer is only 122 cm. in 
 breadth. The arch of its vaulted ceiling is wedge-shaped and broadly trun- 
 cated at the top. There are masses of ruined masonry and other debris at 
 the back of this front apartment corresponding with it in position, as if it 
 once had an adjoining chamber in the rear. But I could discover no entrances 
 on the west-northwest side, nor any doorway in the partition wall of the front 
 apartment. Therefore, the character of the rear portion of this structure 
 must remain doubtful. At all events the lintel sculptures lend a certain im- 
 portance to this edifice, the plan of which differs from that of the temples. 
 It is not improbable that burial chambers had been built into the wall at tlie 
 back of the front apartment. 
 
 Lintel 34, milptured on the under side. The first lintel on the right 
 (No. 34 in the general enumeration) was cracked in many pieces even in 
 Maya times, owing to the pressure upon it of the very considerable weight of 
 the frieze and the vaulted ceiling. The people of that time, therefore, had 
 walled up the entrance to which this lintel belonged, leaving only a little 
 window as an opening. Unfortunately some one has torn down the enclosing 
 wall and taken away portions of the cracked inscription-slab as mementoes, 
 thus impairing the value of the whole. 
 
 The free under side of this lintel (that is, the field occupied by tlie glyphs 
 together with the border) was painted red, and measures 112 cm, in length 
 by 64 cm. in breadth. The glyphs were divided into four ^'ertical rows of 
 eight characters each, carved in flat relief, a total of thirty-two glyphs. 
 
 The execution of these red glyphs is very delicate, and protected as they 
 were by the walling, they were perfectly preserved, in spite of the crack, be- 
 fore they were disturbed by thoughtless visitors. 
 
 Lintel 35, sculptured on the under side. This lintel fared even worse 
 than No. 34, nothing having been left of it but the sawed-off stone which 
 certainly simplified my labor with regard to a description of its sculptured 
 under side. 
 
134 
 
 KESEAECHES IN THE USU^^ATSIXTLA VALLEY. 
 
 Lintel 36. sculjiiiiml on the wider side. This lintel lay with its sculp- 
 tured face turned upward, which was consequently quite worn away. It can 
 still be discerned, however, that the sculpture represented a man of rank in a 
 standing position holding a little image in his outstretched hand. 
 
 Lintel 37, sculptured on the under side (Plate LXIV). This stone lay 
 among the ruins with its sculptured face downward, which was therefore 
 very well preserved. The under side (that is, the field occupied by the glyphs, 
 together witli the border) is painted red, and i.s 104 cm. in length by 70 cm. 
 in breadth. The stone is of course longer than 104 cm. by the ends let 
 into the doorposts. The glyphs are divided into four vertical columns of 
 eight nicely carved characters each, making a total of thirty-two glyphs. 
 
 Structures 13 and Uf. Leaving the structure with the four sculptured 
 lintels, one comes next to two massive constructions running parallel to each 
 other, which are principally long terraces upon which there are no buildings 
 of any importance. The two terraces are entirely solid, and have stairways 
 along their longitudinal sides. On the southeast side of Structure 13 lie the 
 remain.s of certain additional wings. Structure 14 had no additions, but not 
 far from it lies a large circular altar. Did these two incomprehensible struc- 
 tures once enclose a playground like those -of the Yucatec cities ? Some 
 treasure-seeker had begun to break down one of them, but only rubble was 
 disclosed to view. 
 
 Structure IS. While Structures 12, 13, and 14 are placed transversely 
 on the embankment, the whole length of the latter is bordered by a long 
 construction (No. 15 in the general enumeration) which stretches from Struc- 
 tures 12 to 16. It may be assumed that the ruins, which resemble an enor- 
 mous barricade, were once rows of chambers. 
 
 Structure 16. The Structure with Lintels 38, 39, and Jfi, with sculptures 
 on the exterior faces. 
 
 Adjoining the northwest end of the ruined structure No. 15, is quite 
 an extensive building consisting of a double row of chambers, also transversely 
 placed with reference to the embankment. The principal facade of this edifice 
 fronted east-southeast, and on this .side were three doorways spanned by huge 
 stone lintels. But owing to the chaotic condition of the ruins I cannot deter- 
 mine whether the three entrances belonged to one single large chamber, or 
 whether there had been a division into three compartments. However that 
 may have been, there were undoubtedly rear and possibly also lateral cham- 
 bers. Only over one single doorway in the principal facade was the lintel 
 (No. 40 in the general enumeration) still in its proper place, as I had already 
 found it and photograplieil it in 1897. 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 135 
 
 After careful consideration I came to the conclusion tliat this latter door- 
 way must have been the third in the principal faQade. Calculating the 
 positions which the first and second must have occupied, I made excavations 
 at those points (1900), and with such good results that deep down under the 
 debris the two stone lintels (38, 39) were disclosed, each with sculptures on 
 its exterior face. These three stone lintels of Structure 16 are probably the 
 largest in all Yaxchilan, and I regretted that the sculptors had not also orna- 
 mented the under side with reliefs. It was not necessary in this case to turn 
 the stones over on their narrow side faces, but the mere placing them in a 
 light favorable for photographing was a very laborious task. 
 
 Lintel 38, sadphired on exterior face (Plate LXV, 1). Length of stone, 
 251 cm. Length of sculpture, 125 cm. Thickness of stone, also height of 
 sculpture, 32 cm. Breadth of stone, 97 cm. A figure, presumably of a 
 woman, sitting cross-legged, holds in its arms a serpent-like form, which 
 terminates at both ends in scroll-work, including open jaws and developing 
 into a fantastic human head. On the right and left two rows of four glyphs 
 each — a total of sixteen glyphs — form a finish to the whole. The sculp- 
 ture is only .slightly affected by moisture. There are still traces of red color 
 on the glyphs. 
 
 Lintel 39, sculptured on exterior face (Plate LXV, 2). Length of stone, 
 195 cm. Length of sculpture, 121 cm. Thickness of stone, also height of 
 sculpture including the border, 32 cm. Breadth of stone, 104 cm. A man 
 of rank, tastefully adorned, lies upon the ground. Over him winds a kind 
 of serpent, terminating at each end in open jaws formed of beautiful scroll- 
 work. Each jaw holds a fantastic human head. On the right and left two 
 rows of four glyphs each — a total of sixteen glyphs — form the finish. 
 
 The sculpture, executed in hard limestone, is marvellously well preserv ed, 
 and traces of red color are still discernible on the glyphs. Tlie human form 
 lies in so graceful an attitude that a modern artist could scarcely improve 
 upon the delineation. 
 
 Lintel Jfl, scidptured on exterior face (Plate LXV, 3). Length, 181 cm. 
 Length of sculpture, 125 cm. Thickness of stone, also height of sculpture, 
 including border, 32 cm. Breadth of stone, 95 cm. A figure sitting Turkish 
 fashion, presumably of a woman, holds in its arms a serpent-like form termi- 
 nating at both ends in great jaws holding a fantastic human head. On both 
 the right and left two rows of four glyphs each — that is, sixteen glyphs — 
 form a finish to the whole. No traces of color remain. 
 
 Structure 17. At the back of the structure of tlie three lintels with 
 sculptures on their exterior faces — not placed transversely with reference to 
 the embankment, )5ut following along its edge — are the remains of a long 
 structure, which I examined, but J could not determine what had been the 
 plan of its chambers. It is possible only to determine that the facade fronted 
 
136 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 the esplanade of the embankment, and that a great circular altar is centrally 
 placed in front of it. I succeeded in excavating a lintel of one of the door- 
 ways in the facade, but as it was without ornament, I discontinued the 
 excavation at that point. 
 
 Structure 18. The great Sejmlchrid Pyramid on the Terrace and the North- 
 tuest Eiid of t]ie .Eriihaii/iment, and the adjacent structures on the same terrace. 
 Northwest of Structure 17 and very near it, placed transversely to the embank- 
 ment, and rising about five metres above its plane, there is a terrace (with 
 hearting of earth and stones) which is reached by a broad stairway situated 
 on its east-southeast side. Upon this terrace stands a great sepulchral pyra- 
 mid, similar in construction to the two behind the Temple of the headless 
 Ketsalkoatl, but on a much larger scale. The corners of the pyramid, like 
 those of the other two, seem to be drawn inward, while the central portion of 
 the four sides projects somewhat. There is a small quadrangular addition 
 adjoining the northeast corner. A flight of steps on the east-southeast side 
 of the pyramid leads up to the platform on top, upon which no actual temple 
 could have stood, but probably only a small, open templete. 
 
 Here I found the lower portion of a small stela with remains of sculp- 
 ture, the greater part having scaled off. I found the upper portion of the 
 stela farther down on one of the steps of the pyra- 
 mid, but its sculpture was entirely destroyed by the 
 action of the elements. 
 
 The stela is 72 cm. in breadth. It may have 
 been about two metres in height and was probably 
 ornamented only on one side. The preserved relief 
 on the lower portion shows an oval containing the 
 bust of a personage clothed in a tunic. Of the face, 
 
 nothing remains; but on the reticulated background 
 Jig. 4i. — De.sign upon ^ ... 
 
 G.1K.1IF.NT ; Stela 8. of the garment there can be seen quatrefoils contam- 
 
 ing a cruciform pattern (Fig. 44). There are also the 
 remains of two glyphs, one of which distinctly shows the sign of the .spider's 
 web. In my list of stelie this one is No. 8. 
 
 While searching the upper steps of the pyramid my men found two 
 interesting incense vessels with a head on the rim. These are shown on the 
 altar in Plate LXXX, 2. They had been protected by a stone slab which 
 leant against the side of a step, and had thus escaped the danger of being 
 broken by falling debris or by mischievous hands. I do not, however, mean 
 to assert that these vessels were placed there during the flourishing period of 
 the city. They are doubtless to be ascribed to Indians, who in the past 
 centuries made pilgrimages to the temples of this city — as they still do to- 
 day — long after they had been deserted. The face on one of these pottery 
 vessels, especially with regard to its round eyes, lias decidedly the character 
 
YAXCIIILAN. 
 
 137 
 
 of figures that are found in the region of tlie Rio de la Candelaria, near the 
 Lalie of Silbitulv and near Bolonpeten, regions in which, up to the middle 
 of the nineteenth century, there were still numerous settlements of free 
 Mayas, who have either all died out or have withdrawn into inaccessible 
 wildernesses. 
 
 Opposite the southwest side of the pyramid, on the same terrace, lies 
 a quadrangular mass of ruins of considerable size, which must once have 
 been a structure containing passages like the neighboring " Labyrinth." 
 Although everything has apparently fallen down, it is quite possible that a 
 more extensive excavation might disclose remains of chambers. 
 
 On the northeast corner of the terrace lie the ruins of a small structure, 
 which seems to have had a projection on the south-southwest side. lu front 
 of this structure lie four circular altars of various size, the once interesting 
 sculptures of which are now quite worn away by the elements. 
 
 Excavations inidertaken in the body of the sepulchral pyramid as well as 
 in and about the adjacent structures and in the terrace itself, might afford 
 interesting results to some future explorer. 
 
 Slruciure 19 (Plates XL, 2, XLIV, 1). "The Labyrinth." Continu- 
 ing in a southwesterly direction along the terrace witli the sepulchral pyra- 
 
 Fig. 45. — Structure 19 (tIie Labyklnth) ; Section and Ground-plan (restored) 
 c, passageway through c'. 
 
 mid, one comes upon a terrace two or three metres lower, upon which stands 
 the remarkable, almost square structure which I call '■ The Labj'rinth " on 
 account of its interior passageways (Fig. 45). 
 
 This labyrinth is a quadrangular structure, 20 m. 33 cm. in length by 
 17 m. 70 cm, in breadth. Height of structure, exclusive of roof-comb, 5 m. 
 88 cm. This roof-comb is of " twofold character," as I am in the habit of 
 expressing it, and may have had two or even three stories. Each story of 
 this many-windowed, airy superstructure may be estimated at a height of five 
 
 MEM. PE.iBODV MUSEDM II. — 18 
 
138 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA \- ALLEY. 
 
 metres, consequently the total height of the whole edifice was at least 15 ni. 
 88 cm., and perhaps even more. 
 
 The fagade with its four entrances faces east-southeast. It is possible 
 that there were small doorways at the back, which have now entirely fallen 
 to ruin. It is quite certain that there were no entrances on the other two 
 slightly narrower sides, which in itself lends an air of mystery to the 
 structure. 
 
 Upon the esplanade in front of the huilding, I found two sacrificial 
 stones of no very great diameter, but of considerable height with tlie sur- 
 face of the cylinders, as well as that of the circular tops, covered with sculp- 
 tured pictures and glyphs, now, unfortunately, very much weathered. Nev- 
 ertheless, I took a photograph of the one that was best preserved, which 
 at any rate gives an idea of the arrangement of the figures and the glyphs 
 (Plate LXXX,2). 
 
 From the esplanade a broad stairway about 2>- metres high leads to the 
 upper platform upon which, about 2-|- metres from the edge, rises the facade. 
 Its base and principal wall surfaces are plainly treated, as usual, the latter, 
 however, being interrupted by three high and narrow niches. 
 
 The frieze shows a rich elaboration, and has a lower and an upper cornice. 
 The actual field of the frieze has five high niches, the central one being broad 
 and the others much narrower. The ornamented head of the middle niche 
 probably extended beyond the upper cornice of the frieze, but all its stucco 
 and masonry work have fallen off ; the other niches are more or less well 
 preserved, but are now quite empty. The surfaces of the frieze between the 
 niches and the corners — as is shown by some projecting stones — was once 
 richly ornamented with figure-work, and had a projecting border on each 
 side of it, with j_ shaped niches towards the base. I am inclined to believe 
 that the exterior of this structure was once covered with white stucco. 
 There were no traces of red color visible. 
 
 The three doorways of the great vestibule are spanned by stepped lintels, 
 as it would have been difficult to cover them with a single stone, the front 
 wall being 190 cm. in thickness. The vestibule is 1265 cm. in length, 195 
 cm. in breadth, and 370 cm. in height. The vaulted ceiling is curved but 
 inversely like a tent J\ and not truncated at the top. The vaults of the 
 other parallel or transverse chambers and passages are for the most part 
 wedge-shaped, sometimes ending in an acute angle, and sometimes more or 
 less liroadly truncated. 
 
 The vestilinle has a large rear chamljer and three half-chambers, and at 
 its left end a narrow passageway leads to a side chamber, which also has a 
 narrow entrance in front. From this lateral chamber, as also from the oppo- 
 site half-chamber (the last but one of the vestibules) small flights of stairs 
 lead down to the longitudinal and transverse passages lying 2 m. 25 cm. 
 lower, which seem to receive their scanty supply of light and air only from 
 
YAXCHILAN. 139 
 
 these two narrow passages. For a. better miclcrstanding of the whole plan 
 of this structure I must refer to my drawing of it, which gives a clear 
 idea of this remarkable edifice in all its details. 
 
 The portion forming the northwest corner has entirely fallen down, I:iut 
 it is possible that the narrow passages, coming at a right angle from both 
 sides, crossed again and united at this point. 
 
 The dazzlingly white stucco covering of tlie walls and vaulted ceilings is 
 very well preserved in the interior passages, while in the outer apartments it 
 has mostly fallen off. According to this, it would not seem to be the moisture 
 which causes the plaster covering of the walls to fall off, but the too rapid 
 change of temperature ; for the interior chambers are nmch more damp than 
 the outer ones. 
 
 Numerous stone couches have been built into the chambers and half- 
 chambers ; nine of these are still in a good state of preservation. Even in 
 ancient times there were people who could not resist spoiling a rationally 
 planned building with absurd alterations. Thus the couches, placed before 
 the entrances to the interior chambers, originally occupied half the breadth of 
 their respective anterooms, and left sufficient space for conveniently reaching 
 the little stairways and descending by them ; but at a later date they were 
 extended so as to fill up tlie whole span of the anterooms, and tlie little 
 stairways were raised to the height of the couches, which unreasonable alter- 
 ation rendered access to the rear apartments difficult, besides robbing them of 
 light and air. 
 
 Of the loft}', double-walled, many-windowed roof-comb above on the 
 stone roof, only the base remains. 
 
 What may have been the purpose of this remarkable building ? The 
 circular sacrificial stones in front of it indicate a semi-religious character at 
 least. Largely owing to its stone couches and interior passageways, the 
 " Labyrinth " of Yaxchilan always reminds me of the south portion of the 
 principal palace at Palenciue. 
 
 The " Labyrinth " and the sepulchral pyramid with its enormous terraces 
 form the architectural and strategic northwestern termination of the embank- 
 ment. At the back of these two structures I found nothing more of 
 importance. 
 
 IL The Chain of Temples neak the foot of the northea.stern 
 
 SLOPE OF THE MOUNTAIN RANGE OF THE GrEAT AND THE LeSSER 
 
 Acropolis. 
 
 Structure 20 (Plate XLI, 1). The Temple of Sculptured Lintels IS, 13, 
 14, and of Stdce 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, called bi/ me El Templo de la Ofrenda de Aves, for 
 breriti/, the Bird Temple. Standing on the southeastern part of the embank- 
 ment of the spot once occupied by Stela 3 and turning toward the opposite 
 
140 
 
 RESEARCHES IN TOE USCMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 mountain-side, one beholds a tlireefold terracing crowned by a temple, "which 
 for brevity's sake I call the Bird Temple, because the offering of a bird as a 
 sacrificial gift is represented on two of its lintels. 
 
 This temple is one of the most important in Yaxchilan, as is evidenced 
 by the great number of sculptures belonging to it. Stela 3, already described, 
 stood well forward on the esplanade, and on the edge of the first terrace stood 
 four more stelEe (4, 5, 6, 7), all having fallen from the terrace and with one 
 exception brolten in pieces. Behind each one of these stel;e, according to the 
 universal custom, there was a circular altar upon the terrace, and one in front 
 at the foot of the terrace. These circular stones, some of which are very large, 
 are now lying about in confusion with their sculpture entirely destroyed. 
 
 On the second terrace I found neither stelse nor altars. 
 
 Upon the third terrace stands the temple, the right wing of which has 
 unfortunately fallen down. When I was drawing the plan of this temple 
 
 Fig. 46. — Structure 20; Section .\nd Ground-plan (restored). 
 c, .section tlirough Stela 3. 
 
 (1897), I became convinced that it must have had three entrances in the 
 facade (Fig. 46). Therefore on my return (1900), I made an excavation 
 exactly on the spot where, according to my calculation, the first entrance of 
 the right wing must have been. Deep down under the debris, three metres 
 in advance of the facade line, to my great joy I found the sought-for lintel 
 (12), its ornamentation differing from that of the other two (13, 14) on 
 which the sacrifice of a bird was the subject, inasmuch as it consisted of an 
 admirable group of warriors and captives. 
 
 The facade of the temple with its three entrances fronts northeast. Its 
 base as well as the principal wall surfaces were flatly treated. The frieze is 
 almost four metres in height, sloping slightly backward, and having a lower 
 and upper cornice with only a moderate projection. The frieze itself has (or 
 had) a high and deep niche over each doorway. On the rear of the building 
 the frieze had niches of the same kind and on the narrow northwest end, 
 which is still intact, there is a similar high niche. The consoles of the niches 
 (as shown in my photograph) are fantastic, stuccoed heads (always serpent- 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 141 
 
 faced) with stucco scroll-work at the sides. There are also remains of scroll- 
 work on the corners of the frieze, otherwise the frieze is flat. Unfortunately 
 the stucco images wdiich once ornamented the niches have long since fallen 
 to decay. Only in the niche in the narrow end of the left flank of the struc- 
 ture there is still a standing figure to be seen. 
 
 A lofty many-windowed roof-comb, doubtless also with stucco ornaments, 
 once graced this edifice. Only the beginnings of it are now to be seen on the 
 stone roof. 
 
 The exterior of the temple seems to have been entirely covered with 
 white stucco, for 1 could discover no traces of color in the niches or on 
 the stucco ornaments. However, along the principal wall surfaces, close 
 under the sloping course of flat stones forming the lower cornice of the frieze, 
 ran a broad red band all around the building, vestiges of which are still 
 distinctly visible. 
 
 I calculated the total length of the temple at 19 m. 20 cm. Breadth, 
 5 m. 47 cm. Height from the level of the terrace to the upper edge of the 
 upper cornice of the frieze, 7 ni., to which must be added in imagination 
 about 10 m. for the demolished roof-comb. 
 
 Although the temple apartment has a lateral chamber at each end, a 
 single vault spans the entire building. This triangular vault is strictly 
 straight-lined, but slightly interrupted towards the top by a step, so that the 
 upper part of the vault is steeper than the lower part. A slight truncation 
 occurs at the apex. 
 
 In the principal apartment two strong flying buttresses projected from 
 the longitudinal wall, which, together with the partition walls of the lateral 
 chambers, were meant to help carry the stupendous burden of the roof-comb. 
 
 The breadth of the principal apartment is 269 era. Height, 520 cm. 
 Length (exclusive of the lateral chambers), according to my calculation, is 
 1056 cm. 
 
 The interior, with its weighty, well-constructed vault, was covered with 
 white stucco and was without ornamentation in color. 
 
 The doubt remains as to whether the figure of a deity stood against the 
 middle of the longitudinal wall of the principal chamber, as in the Ketsa- 
 koatl temple on the Acropolis. If so, it must lie deep, but well protected, 
 under the debris of the fallen ceiling. In order to solve the doubt, it would 
 be necessary to make an excavation in a straight line from the middle 
 entrance to the longitudinal wall. 
 
 Lintel 13, sculptured on under side. Length of stone, 212 cm. Middle 
 height of sculpture (lengthwise of the stone), 80 cm. Breadth of stone at the 
 base line of sculpture, 97 cm. ; at the top line of sculpture, 89 cm. Breadth of 
 sculpture equals breadth of stone. Thickness, 33 cm. 
 
 A warrior of high rank represented from a front view — excepting his 
 face — holds a lance in his right hand and in his left the rope with which are 
 
142 
 
 EESEAECHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 bound two prisoners, wlio kneel before bini in an attitude of submission. On 
 his right kneel two more captives, also bound, whom another warrior is pre- 
 senting. The Halachvinic is clad in a tunic ornamented with cross-bones. 
 From his breast-cape depends a kind of sash of scales, to which is attached a 
 large head, forehead downward, the end of the sash forming, as it were, a 
 crown of feathers for it. From the chieftain's helmet there also rises a head 
 out of which develops the great plume of feathers falling toward the back. 
 Little glyphs are incised on the arms and thighs of the captives, which are 
 turned towards the beholder. On the background are a single and a double 
 row of glyphs, 6 + 12, which, however, have become quite indistinct. The 
 projection of the flat relief is only 1 cm., and the stone is rather cross-grained. 
 The colors have disappeared, excepting some vestiges of red on the upper and 
 lower borders of the relief. 
 
 Lintel 13, sculptured on the under side. This lintel, which probably had 
 been rudely torn from its supports, I found wedged into the entrance in 
 the most awkward position imaginable, where its sculptures could neither be 
 photographed nor moulded. I therefore saw that it was necessary to under- 
 take a great clearing away of the mass of debris in front of the doorway. 
 My men succeeded only with great difficulty in moving and turning the heavy 
 stone so that its sculpture side could be photographed. Unfortunately the 
 position in which the lintel had been placed left it exposed to the rains, and 
 no vestige of color remains. 
 
 The scene represented by the sculpture can be described thus : A woman 
 of high rank (or a male personage of rank clad in a garment resembling a 
 woman's skirt ?) holds in her right hand a fan of feathers and in her left a 
 platter with a bird, which she presents to the high priest as a sacrificial gift. 
 The priest extends toward her with his right hand the half-length image of 
 a deity projecting from open jaws formed of handsome scroll-work, while in 
 his left hand he likewise holds a fan of feathers. 
 
 The personage in the richly adorned petticoat (eneiguas) wears cuffs, a 
 bead-collar with three delicately executed medallions (below the middle one 
 a horizontal breast-plate), and a helmet composed of grotesque faces and 
 scroll-work. The personage in masculine attire wears a similar collar with 
 breast-plate and medallions. The action takes place over an altar formed of 
 two vertical rows of six glyphs each, placed between the two personages of 
 rank. Besides the twelve glyphs forming the altar, I find on the back- 
 ground 4 -I- 4 -f- 5, making a total of twenty-five glyphs. The measure- 
 ments of tlie sculptured surface of Lintel 13 are like those of No. 14, for 
 which reason I do not make a separate statement of them. 
 
 Lintel li, sculptured on the under side (Plate LV). This lintel is still 
 in its place over the third entrance. I photographed it at night with mag- 
 nesium light. The height of the sculptured surface, including the border, is 
 equal to the width of tlie entrance, — 92 cm. Breadth of sculptured surface. 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 143 
 
 including tlie Ijovder, is equal to breadth of stone =91 cm. (the wall having 
 a thickness of 139 cm., the difference is made up by a second stone, which 
 forms the step-shaped transition to the vault). 
 
 The relief on Lintel 14 represents a scene similar to that on No. 13. 
 The two personages of rank are similarly dressed and adorned. The altar, in 
 this instance, is formed of three rows of four glyphs each, besides which there 
 are 5 -|- 3 glyphs on the background, making a total of twenty glyphs. There 
 are remains of dark-red color visible on the background alone. The projection 
 of the relief on these last two stones is greater than that of Lintel 12. 
 
 Stela Jf (Plate LXX). In falling this stone broke in several pieces. 
 The flat relief belonging to the human side is worn off of all the pieces. Of 
 the low relief on the deity side there was preserved a large lower fragment 
 together with the broken-of£ corner belonging to ■ it, and the magnificent 
 top-piece. But that portion of the deity side which should come between 
 these two fragments is destroyed. Nevertheless it can easily be recognized 
 that we have before us another representation of the beneficent god. The 
 two narrow side faces are without glyphic ornamentation. The breadth of 
 the stela is 16-j cm. plus the rounding out of the narrow side faces. Thick- 
 ness, 25 cm. 
 
 The sculpture on the ornamental base of the deity side consists of a 
 symmetrical design of glyphic character. The corner of the base, which 
 is missing in my photograph, is identical with the other corner. The frag- 
 ment is well preserved, but as it lies above on the terrace, it would have 
 been a difficult matter to fit it to the large stone lying below. 
 
 Three personages can be recognized as standing on the base line of the 
 picture (top line of ornamental base) ; the middle figure in profile — preserved 
 as far as the beginning of the abdomen.— agrees with the representations of 
 the beneficent god. At his feet stands the chest of plaited work. The lower 
 portion of the " honey cord " is also visible. Before the deity kneels a male 
 figure — preserved as far as the neck — extending his right hand to receive 
 the benefits. Behind the deity stands the figure of a female, preserved nearly 
 to the hips. Between the woman and the god runs a vertical row of glyphs, 
 showing seven well-preserved characters. 
 
 The finish at the top of the deity side is one of the finest productions of 
 Yaxohilan sculptor's art. A horizontal ornamental beam, decorated with the 
 simplified characters of the second manner of writing, turns down at the ends 
 J L, and terminates right and left in large grotesque faces, one of which is 
 partially preserved and the other destroyed. Attached to the lower edge of 
 the beam are two three-pronged signs (" spectacle signs," as I call them), on 
 each of which can be seen an expressive head, face downward. 
 
 Above the beam, to the right and left, are two serpent ovals. In one 
 the little figure of a man sits cross-legged, and in the other that of a woman. 
 Each figure holds in its arms an " ornamental beam," decorated at each end 
 
144 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 by an expressive Lead. One of the profile heads of the man's beam is 
 brolven off. Between the ovals is the half-length profile picture of a divinity (?) 
 with a mustache. There are in all eight grotesque faces in profile (two of 
 which are destroyed) and one half-length figure, besides the two figures 
 in the ovals. 
 
 Stela 5. This stone is broken in two. The former total height was 
 250 cm. The lieight of the piece photographed by me is 12(5 cm. Breadtli 
 of the stela, 83 cm. ; thickness, 36 cm. 
 
 The upper half had fallen with the human side turned upward, which 
 was consequently worn away, but it is still discernible that the subject of 
 the very flat relief is the figure of a man standing upright. The lower 
 half of the stone — on which comes about one-third of the sculpture — had 
 fallen with the human side down, and shows only the iminteresting lower 
 part of the legs and the feet of the figure. The portion of the deity side 
 which belongs to this lower piece is totally destroyed. The upper two 
 thirds of the deity side, following the general rule, exhibits much greater 
 projection than the other side. 
 
 The divinity is adorned with a superabundant number of medallions, — 
 round ones and square ones, eight in all, — which almost entirely conceal 
 his tunic, which is covered with a pattern of cross-bones. Three medallions 
 with small round faces are attached to the breast-cape of scales. To a strap 
 reaching down as far as the abdomen are attached, first, the breast-plate with 
 a St. Andrew's cross and pendants, and then below this, a great four-cornered 
 medallion with an elliptical one on either side, and at the very bottom a 
 large square one. There is a cuff on the right wrist and oh the left one a 
 large four-cornered medallion, which may be regarded as a little shield for 
 the protection of the artery of the wrist. The head-covering consists of 
 confused scroll-work out of wdiieli rises a great plume of feathers falling 
 backwards. These feathers are toothed like a saw, and have rayless stars 
 and feather tassels at their tips. Tlie divinity rests his left hand upon his 
 hip. In his well-modelled right hand he holds a lance, the shaft of wdiich 
 is ornamented with small intertwined serpents. The fantastic head of a 
 monster lias been impaled upon the point of the lance. 
 
 A male figure kneels on either side of the divinity. The fracture fortu- 
 nately passes below the heads, diagonally across the stone. Above the head 
 of each of the kneeling figures is an animal's head looking upward. On the 
 upper part of the stela there are nine glyphs. Only on the background were 
 traces of dark-red color visible. 
 
 Stela 6 (Plate LXXI). The lower part, which was let into the earth, and 
 on whicli were the beginnings of the ornamental base, was brok(^n off. The 
 present height of the stone is 296 cm., which leads to the supposition that 
 the total height of the stone must have been about 4 m. Breadth, 118 cm. 
 Thickness, 29 cm. 
 
YAXCHILAN, 
 
 145 
 
 The side devoted to the memory of a human being fell face upward, and 
 is entirely worn away by the downpouring rains. The side devoted, again in 
 this case, to the beneficent divinity, having lain face downward, is sufficiently 
 •well preserved. There were no inscriptions on the narrow side faces. 
 
 A mass of roots at the back of this exceedingly heavy stone proved 
 an obstacle to placing it in a perfectly perpendicular position on one of its 
 sides, and it therefore remained leaning forward a little. The sculptured 
 surface could only be lighted up by the rays of the sun as they glanced 
 through the clearing in the front very early in the morning. In order not 
 to lose the favorable moment on the day on which I had arranged to take 
 the photograph, I had my breakfast brought out to the stela, where I had 
 set up my apparatus, deeply sunk in the earth, so that the middle of the 
 lens should correspond as nearly as possible with the middle of .the stone. 
 Fortunately no clouds obstructed the sunlight, and the photograph turned out 
 very well. 
 
 The ornamental base of the deity side is executed in very high relief, 
 and exliibits a richly adorned figure sitting Turkish fashion. The head has 
 been broken off. On the right of the figure are certain symbolic signs, and 
 on the left are the remains of three very much involved glyphs. 
 
 Upon the top line of the ornamental base stands the beneficent divinity, 
 executed quite in profile, and in much lower relief than that of the base. 
 Before the god stands the chest of plaited work, from which he has taken the 
 string of sweets ornamented with little bees' heads, which he holds out 
 before himself with both hands. He wears buskins and leg-bands ; cuffs on 
 his wrists ; on the upper part of the body a garment with a great mask in 
 front at the neck ; a scroll-work breast-plate, with a St. Andrew's cross ; a 
 loin-girdle ; a large head attached to the back. The high head-dress consists 
 of peculiar scroll-work. 
 
 In front of the divinity I find nine large glyphs ; behind him, in a vertical 
 row, ten smaller ones. 
 
 The finish at the top of the deity side is similar to that of Stela; 1, 4, 
 and 10, but it is not executed on so grand a scale, and is besides somewhat 
 weathered. The horizontal ornamental beam, however, can be recognized, 
 ending in grotesque faces, and with two faces in profile attached below. 
 Above on either side of a head in profile, is a half-serpent oval each 
 containing a half-length figure in profile, each figure holding a small orna- 
 mental beam with little end heads at an oblique angle. On my photograph 
 the half oval on tlje right (of the spectator) with the half-length figure of a 
 woman are most distinctly to be seen. Below the head of the half-serpent 
 the profile face of the woman is discernible, and also the large profile head 
 between the half-ovals. No traces of color remain. 
 
 Steh 7. Breadth of stone, 119 cm. Former height, probably about 4 
 m. Though I found this stela in a dreadful state of demolition, I succeeded 
 
 MEM. rEAHODT MDSKUM II. — 19 
 
146 RESEARCHES IX THE USUMATiSIXTLA VALLEY. 
 
 in fitting together the lower half of the niagniflcciit divinity side. Owing to 
 the fragmentary condition of the stela rny photograph is not here reproduced. 
 
 The design of the ornamental base is of glyphic character, and on either 
 side of it is an oval of scroll-worl<, one of which contains the monkey 
 (osomatU), and the other the raljliit (toMli = totstli). On the top line of the 
 ornamental base stands, strictly in profile, the beneficent god with the chest 
 of good fortune at his feet. He wears high buskins, and the leg-bands are 
 ornamented in front by large crossings and scroll-work. A grotesque face 
 is attached to the front of the girdle, and a large head is in this case also 
 attached to the back of the divinity. All the rest of the figure is destroyed. 
 
 Before the god kneels a man raising both hands in supplication. Around 
 his hips and loins he wears tlie crossed loin-cloth which is held fast to the 
 body by a sash. Over his shoulders is thrown a light mantle, the upper 
 edge of which is formed by the necklace of stone beads with a stone oval 
 depending from it. The head is adorned with a helmet formed of an ani- 
 mal's head. The god holds with both hands, above the face of the suppli- 
 cant, the string of joys, which here displays double scrolls S~l . The little 
 Ijee's head in the angle between the chin and the uplifted left hand is very 
 distinctly to be seen. The face and upper part of the body of this figure 
 are represented in so natural and lifelike a manner that I count this piece 
 among the mo.st beautiful productions of the Yaxchilan sculptor's art. 
 
 There are three glyphs over the head of the supplicant. Behind the 
 god, along the edges of the border, there are two perpendicular rows of 
 glyphs. The one reaching from the base-line to the back of the head contains 
 seven large delicately modelled glyphs ; of the other row ten are preserved. 
 
 On the very much worn liimian side it is possible only to recognize that 
 the principal figure represents a warrior with a lance in his right hand. 
 
 Siriidwe 31. The Temple with ilie Sawed-off Lintels, Nos. 15, 16, and 17. 
 Leaving the platform of the Bird Temple, and keeping at a certain height 
 above the level ground, it is possible to walk along the slope of the hill to 
 the transverse structure with the two inscribed lintels (27 and 28) on the front. 
 We will proceed to describe these buildings in their order. 
 
 Near the Bird Temple we first come to two low heaps of stone, which 
 were once two small constructions. There is little hope of finding sculpture 
 among this debris. 
 
 Next in order comes a structure IS m. long, with three chamljers ; 
 a large central chamber 666 cm. in length, and a smaller chamber on each 
 side (Fig. 47). The faqade, which fronts northeast, has three entrances 86 
 cm. wide, leading into the central chamber, and one entrance leading into 
 each of the lateral chambers. But in the narrow end of the outer wall of the 
 left-hand lateral chamber, there is a doorway which has been walled up. 
 
YAXUHILAN. 
 
 147 
 
 The very thick wall of the facade probably once supported a lofty roof- 
 comb, which has now entirely fallen. The lintels and remains of the frieze 
 are still in place over the entrances of the lateral chambers ; but the remains 
 of masonry and frieze over the three middle doorways have been taken down, 
 the lintels torn out and their sculpture sawed off. 
 
 These sculptured lintels lying perfectly protected upon their supports 
 must have been in an admirable state of preservation. One of the despoiled 
 stones is still in the mass of debris above, and the others, after the worlc of 
 mutilation had been accomplished, were fliuig down the side of the mountain. 
 
 Fig. 47 — Structurr 21: Section axd Crou.nd-plan (restored). 
 
 My researches on the edge of the platform — beneath the rubbish which 
 had fallen upon it — resulted only in finding a circular altar, well preserved 
 but quite without ornamentation. From the platform with the circular altar, 
 a broad flight of steps leads a long distance down to the curved embankment, 
 but there are no stelfe at the foot. 
 
 This structure, despoiled of its sculptures, is now quite without value, 
 and we will therefore leave it and proceed on our way along the upper 
 terraces. 
 
 We next come to the ruins of what was once a little structure of only- 
 one chamber with a single doorway. In order to satisfy all doubts as to 
 whether the lintels of such little structures were or Avere not ornamented with 
 sculpture, I made a slight excavation at about the middle of the facjade line, 
 but considerably in advance of it. We found the lintel, but it was without 
 ornamentation of any kind. 
 
 Stela 2 (Plate LXXII, 1). From the ruins of the little structure with 
 the smooth lintel, one can reach the platform of the stone stairway, which I 
 consider a part of the plan of the Temple of the headless Ketsalkoatl (Struc- 
 ture 33). Here between two heaps of stones, marking the site of two 
 
148 
 
 RESEARCHES IX THE DSUMATSIKTLA VALLEY. 
 
 very small structures. I fouud a moderately large stela lying on the ground. 
 Near it was a small circular altar, and a larger one near the heap of stones 
 on the left. 
 
 The stela was hroken off just above the piece which had been let into 
 the ground. Its present height is 167 cm. It broadens out toward the top, 
 and its greatest breadth is 74 cm. The narrow side-faces have no glyphs. 
 The broad face turned upward was entirely destroyed, but it was probably 
 once ornamented with sculpture. 
 
 The sculpture on the side which lay face downward had lost its most 
 delicate outlines, but the photograph taken in strong sunlight brought out the 
 low relief splendidly, to the very grain of the stone. The design perpetuates 
 some bloody event, for the better understanding of which I refer to the 
 photograph. 
 
 The ornamental base consists of a single chronological glyph, which can 
 be interpreted as the ninth series of years or bolonahau. (The face represents 
 the word almu = king, above which the number 9 = bolon is distinctly recog- 
 nizable). Above the chronological glyph stands a warrior with both arms cut 
 off. He is represented in front view, the face only being in profile. Upon 
 bis head-dress a gnome (ppus) seems to be sitting, from whose occiput a great 
 feather falls backward. A feather projecting" forward is drawn through the 
 nose of the warrior. 
 
 In front of the warrior, near the border, is a stone lancehead with pend- 
 ants, but without a shaft in order thus to indicate that the shaft has become 
 useless since the warrior has lost his arms and can no longer hold a lance. 
 On the background there are four glyphs above and four below, not counting 
 those placed transversely below the latter row, with the death's-head (?) lowest 
 of all. There are no traces of color. 
 
 Stnicture 32. Tlie Slnidiire of the Inscriptions {El Edificio de las Insciyi- 
 ciones). To this structure belong Lintels 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 sculptured on 
 the under side, all the sculpture of which, except perhaps that of 23, is of 
 glyphic character. 
 
 From the platform of the stone stairway upon which Stela 2 once stood, 
 the terrace can be reached from which rises the structure of the inscriptions. 
 Though this cannot perhaps be strictly regarded as a temple, it was doubtless 
 of some special importance. This structure, consisting of a single chamber, 
 crowns a massive substructure something over two metres in height, forming 
 a platform which runs along the north-northeast fagade of the superimposed 
 building. On this side the retaining walls of the platform have no stairway, 
 so that°it must be assumed that there was no access to the chamber from the 
 terrace, but from the rear and from the side. From the terrace in front of 
 the structure a stairway about six metres high leads down to the curved 
 embankment. 
 
YAXCIIILAX. 
 
 149 
 
 o 
 
 Fig. 4S. — Structure 22: (iROUND-ruAX. 
 
 The rear entrance to the chamber was once spanned by a stone lintel 
 with a remarkable incised inscription on its nnder side. To this stone, which 
 I found lying on the ground, I gave 
 the number 18. Even the lintel over 
 the doorway on the northwest narrow 
 end — still in its original position — 
 had an inscription in similar work, 
 of which, however, only very slight 
 traces remain, owing to the scaling off 
 of the stone. To this stone I gave the 
 number 19. I numbered the lintels of 
 the doorways in the facade in their 
 order: 20, 21, 22, and 23 (Fig. 48). 
 
 Lintel 18, sculptured mi under side. 
 The length of this stone is 125 cm. Breadth, 64 cm. The space occupied 
 by the inscription measures 48 X 64 cm. The glyphs are divided into four 
 
 vertical rows of five 
 each, making twenty 
 glyphs in all. These 
 glyphs, as I have al- 
 ready said, have no 
 projection at all, but 
 are incised in the 
 smooth surface of 
 the fine-grained lime- 
 stone. Traces of red 
 color are still visible 
 in the incised lines. 
 
 During my has- 
 ty visit in 1895, I 
 made a tracing of 
 this admirably pre- 
 served, extremely in- 
 teresting inscription 
 
 (Fig. i^y 
 
 Zintel 10, milp- 
 tiired on under side. 
 I only mention this 
 stone, which spans 
 the side entrance 70 
 cm. in width, in order 
 not to leave the enu- 
 meration incomplete. 
 
150 
 
 EESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 50. — Frag:\ient 
 
 LiXTEL 20. 
 
 Fig. 51. — L\iti.\l 
 Glyph: Lintel 21. 
 
 Only a trifling remnant of its incised glyplia have been preserved, — enongli, 
 though, to prove that this structure must have been of importance if tlie lintel 
 of even this insignificant doorway was not left without an inscription. 
 
 Lhdel 20, sculptured on wuler side. Although no lintel was visible 
 among the rubbish lying along the half-ruined facade, I made deep excava- 
 tions in front of all the doorways, because I was convinced that a structure 
 which had inscriptions over every 
 in-siignificant rear and side entrance 
 must have had much more impor- 
 tant sculptures over the main en- 
 trances. 
 
 The excavation in front of 
 the first doorway (counting from 
 the right wing to the left), resulted 
 only in finding a fragment of its lintel (Fig. 50) containing the upper glyphs 
 of an inscription. The principal part of the lintel could not be found, and 
 my men were of the opinion that it must have been carried away. The frag- 
 ment found was evidently a part of an inscription with an arrangement of 
 4x8 glyphs. But as the initial glyph occupies the space of four characters, 
 the inscription consisted of only twenty-nine glyphs. The large initial glyph, 
 like the other two through which the fracture runs, has no incised detail ; 
 it must, therefore, be assumed that all such detail was only indicated by 
 colored lines. 
 
 Lintel 21, sculptured on the under side (Plate LVI). Though this stone 
 is broken in the middle, it is very well preserved. Figure 51 is a drawing of 
 the initial glyph, which does not come out clearly in the photograph. Breadth 
 of stone, 66 cm. Surface containing glyphs, measured at the inner line of 
 the border, 99 cm. in height by 59 cm. in breadth. The glyphs have a 
 projection of 3-5 mm. The execution is very delicate. Slight remnants of 
 red color are visible. 4 X 8 = 32 glyphs. 
 
 Lintel 22, sculptured on the under side (Plate LVII). Of this stone there 
 was a piece broken off above the surface containing the inscription, otherwise 
 it was well preserved. Breadth of stone, 67 cm. The surface covered by 
 the glyphs, measured over' the inner line of the border, is 97-J- cm. in height 
 by 59 cm. in breadth. The projection of the glyphs is 1}- cm. 4 X 8 = 32 
 glyphs. The work is extrenrely delicate. Distinct traces of red are discern- 
 ible over the whole surface. 
 
 Lintel 23. This stone could not be found, and we came to the con- 
 clusion that it also had been carried away. On the terrace opposite the 
 centre of the fourth entrance stands a circular altar, which must have 
 borne some relation to the sculpture of the lintel, which very probably 
 represented some personage. 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 151 
 
 Structure 33. The Temple vnth the Sciil/itiircs on the Under Side eind the 
 exterior face of Lintels 24, 25, and SG. Culled Tjtj me for hreriiij. The Temple 
 of the Tiger's Head. 
 
 After leaving the Temple with the Inscriptions, a few steps bring one to 
 the terrace upon which stands the Temple with the Tiger's Head, an edifice 
 dating from the latest and best period of Maya architecture. It is at any 
 rate of much more recent date than the Red Shore Temjjle, or than South 
 Temple III. 
 
 The temple has a large vestibule which has a single broad step leading 
 up to it. Breadth of vestibule, 205 cm. ; length, including the half-open 
 lateral apartments, 13 m. 72 cm. The height of the vestibule, from the 
 floor to the truncation of the slightly stepped triangular vault, is 433 cm. 
 This chamljer ha.s three entrances in the north-northeastern facjade (Fig. 52). 
 
 Fig. 52. — Structure 23: Skctiox and Gruu^d-tlan (restorkd). 
 c, stucco cornice. 
 
 The wall at the back, on which traces of red painting with green and blue 
 scroll-work is still to be seen, separates it from four small rear chambers, each 
 of which has an entrance at the back. Each of the two middle chambers has 
 a doorway in the partition wall leading into the vestibule. A single vault 
 covers the four lesser chambers, the partition walls of wliich all join the 
 common ceding above. From the flat roofs of these vaulted chambers, along 
 the middle wall, there once rose a roof-comb perforated by many openings, 
 of which the lowest row alone remains. The whole length of the building 
 is 15 m. 72 cm. ; breadth, 7 m. 10 cm. 
 
 The lintels of the three principal doorways were once ornamented with 
 beautiful sculpture on the under sides, and with a row of glyphs on their 
 exterior faces. Upon the terrace in front of every entrance there is a circular 
 altar, the centre one having the greatest diameter. A stairway leads from 
 the terrace down to the curved embankment. 
 
 Lintel 34, sculptured on under side and exterior face. The stone lintel 
 had been torn out of tlie doorway, which had a span of 100 cm., and as no 
 
152 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 sawed-off stone lay near by, we were in clonbt as to what liad become of it. 
 An examination of tlie lieap of rnins at that spot resulted in finding out that 
 the back of the lintel had been hacked off with an axe, which still lay close 
 by, in order to lessen the weight of the sculpture. By this rude process the 
 inscription on the exterior face (probably eight characters) was unfortunately 
 all broken to pieces. The chips were lying all about ! 
 
 Lintel 2'j, sculjitured on under side and exterior face. It was not very 
 difficult to find out what had become of this stone. The enormous mass of 
 frieze and masonry which it had been necessary to take down in order to 
 get at the precious stone lintel, formed a mound reaching to the top of the 
 central doorway, whicli has a span of 121 cm. At the foot of the mound lay 
 the stone sought for, with the inscription and the I'elief on the exterior and 
 under faces very neatly sawed off. 
 
 Lirdel 36, sculptured on under side and exterior face (Plates LVIII, LIX, 1). 
 As the wielders of axe and saw had apparently done their work most 
 tlioroughly, there was little hope of finding the stone lintel belonging to 
 the third entrance. At this part of the building the vaulted ceiling and the 
 frieze had already fallen down. But as we found no sawed-off stone nor 
 chips, 1 set to "work to fathom the heap of ruins. Our excavation resulted 
 in finding the sought-for stone, which was broken in two. The lower half of 
 the sculpture was considerably weathered, but the upper half was remarkably 
 well preserved. Length of stone, 215 cm. Height of sculpture, without the 
 border, 108 cm. Breadtli of stone, or breadth of sculpture with the border, 
 85 cm. Thickness, 25 cm. 
 
 Undersculpture : A woman of rank presents a tiger's head, prepared as 
 a helmet, to the sacrificial priest. The woman has on shoes, her cuffs are 
 of scale-work, her tunic (liuipilU) shows a reticulated pattern, her head-dress 
 is of medium size and adorned with conventionalized flowers, her ear-orna- 
 ments are very distinct, and a line of small dots borders the lips and ends 
 in a scroll on the cheek turned toward the spectator. Below the face is a 
 necklace of stone beads, with a medallion in front. The woman carries with 
 both hands a tiger's head, with a great plume of feathers, probably meant as 
 a head-covering for the priest. I must also add that a pendant ornamented 
 with tassels hangs from the woman's hands down to the ground. 
 
 The priest has buskins, leg-bands, and striped cuffs ; his jacket shows a 
 tasteful pattern in lines, and is ornamented with six rayless stars ; a broad 
 sash of shell-work rea,ches from his neck to his knees ; the ear-ornaments are 
 peculiar. His head-dress, with handsomely executed flowers, has a grotesque 
 face on top, and out of the knot at the back falls a plume of feathers. In 
 his right hand the priest holds a sacrificial knife, and his left hand lies against 
 the front of the tiger's head. 
 
 A T-shaped inscription of nine characters executed in very fine detail is 
 above between the two personages ; six miniature glyphs (Fig. 53) in low 
 
YAXCIIILAN. 
 
 153 
 
 relief are seen on the background near the head-dress of the priest, while 
 about six glyphs, which have become almost invisible, lie between the left 
 thigh of the priest and the 
 pendant described above. The 
 projection of the beautifully 
 executed relief is only about 
 1 cm., but the background is 
 sunk 3 1 cm. There are traces 
 of blue color plainly visiljle 
 on the background, the head- 
 dresses, the garments, the 
 tiger's head, etc., for which 
 reason I am inclined to be- 
 lieve that the whole sculp- 
 tured lintel was once painted 
 sky-blue. 
 
 Exterior face sculpture (Plate LIX, 1) 
 acters, most of which seem to be composed of four glyphs, ornament the ex- 
 terior face of the lintel. Some of these have been battered off, but a good 
 deal of the inscription can still lie recognized in my photograph. The 
 tiger's head occurs repeatedly among the glyphs. 
 
 Eight rounded-off glyphic char- 
 
 Strudure 2Jf. The Tnmsrerse Strudiire luith Lintels 27 and 3S sailpturcd 
 on the exterior faces. Near the left flank of the Tiger Temple a structure 
 placed transversely closes in the terrace. In the heap of ruins we found an- 
 other lintel with an inscription in two rows on its exterior face. An exami- 
 nation of the ruins brought me to the conclusion that the structure must have 
 had two entrances in the east-southeast fagade, the one still in evidence being 
 the left-hand one. I made an excavation which corroborated my supposition, 
 for I found the right-hand lintel with an inscription on its exterior face. 
 
 Lintel '37, sculptured oh exterior face (Plate LIX, 2). Length of stone, 
 200 cm. ; length of inscription, 107 cm. ; thickness of stone, 35 cm. ; height 
 of inscription, 20 cm. Two horizontal rows of eight glyphs each — sixteen 
 glyphs in all — fairly well preserved. 
 
 Lintel 28, sculptured on exterior face (Plate LIX, 3). Length of stone, 
 205 cm. ; length of inscription, 108 cm. ; thickness of stone, 37 cm. ; height 
 of inscription, 20 cm. Two horizontal rows of eight glyphs each — sixteen 
 glyphs in all, not so well preserved as in Lintel 27. I carefully brushed and 
 washed this lintel, and painted it over with clay, so that the photograph 
 turned out better than I expected. These two lintels had no sculpture on 
 the under side. 
 
 Back of this transverse structure the terrace continues in the direction 
 of the Labyrinth, but it has no more monumental edifices. 
 
 MEM. PBABODY MUSEUM II. — 20 
 
154 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSIXTLA VALLEY. 
 
 For a better comprehension of the whole, I would remark that the mag- 
 nificent structures on the slope of the mountain should be regarded as corre- 
 sponding to those on the curved embankment below, as follows : — 
 
 The Bird Temple has Structure 5, with the stairway of the inscriptioirs as 
 a corresponding building. 
 
 Temple 21, with the sculptured lintels sawed off, has as a corresponding 
 building, Structure 7, adjacent to tlie Red Shore Temple, the transverse Struc- 
 ture 8 being between the two. 
 
 The Stone Stairway with the stela of the warrior with arms cut off is 
 opposite Structure 9 with the circular altar, and the colunni with lattice- 
 work design ; between the two is Stela 1. 
 
 Opposite the Structure of the Inscriptions and the Tiger Temple lies the 
 Great Palace 10. with the five lintels sculptured on the under side. 
 
 III. Second Chain of Steuctuees .situated somewhat niGHER ox the 
 
 .SAME NORTflEASTERN SLOPE OF THE MOUNTAIN EANGE OF THE GeeAT 
 
 AND THE Lessee Acropolis. 
 
 Structures 25 and 36. Leaving the platform of the stone stairway de- 
 scribed above — upon which once stood Stela 2 of the armless warrior — it 
 is no longer possible, in order to reach the upper terraces of the Temple of 
 the headless Ketsalkoatl, to proceed along an imaginary line passing through 
 the centre of the collection of buildings, but one should ascend the remains of 
 a stairway of small steps on the right, which leads to the left wing of the 
 terrace with the stalactite column. 
 
 It may be assumed that a projecting (lower) row of chambers abutted 
 against the retaining wall of the northeastern side of this terrace. These 
 chambers have now fallen down, it is true, but the mass of stones of which 
 they were probably built is still to be seen. At any rate, there is a step (a 
 terrace) in front of this heap of stones, and their right wing is adjoined by 
 two small structures (Nos. 25 and 26 in the general enumeration) at an 
 obtuse angle to the imaginary line of the reconstructed front of this side. 
 
 The ground-plan and elevation of the structure (No. 25) lying nearest 
 the corner of the right wing of the ruined chambers mentioned above are 
 of very elegant proportions, and I am of the opinion that it must have 
 been a little temple. I drew the plan of this pretty little edifice, as it is 
 still very well preserved (Fig. 54). Its facade (Plate XLI, 2) faces almost 
 due north — that is, the line of its facade forms, with that of the main 
 temple, an angle of l-oT". The base and the main wall surfaces are, as usual, 
 simply treated. 
 
 The frieze has a lower and upper cornice, and certain stones projecting 
 from its surface indicate that it was once adorned with images. The roof- 
 comb, which formerly crowned the structure, is now wholly fallen down. 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 155 
 
 Three entrances covered by a stepped arch lead to the vestibule of the 
 temple, which is only 132 cm. broad by 1057 cm. long. Its height is 
 about 458 cm. By way of sanctuary, this apartment has in the middle a 
 transversely placed open chamber 177 cm. in breadth, and on either side of it 
 
 0 5 lOnu 
 
 Fig. 54. — Stkuctukk 25: Spxtion and GitnuND-PLAN (rkstored). 
 
 a small rear chamber 96 cm. in breadth, the doorways of which lead from 
 the vestibule. The latter, as well as the transverse chamber, are covered 
 by a graceful vault formed of five steps. 
 
 I would remark here that the wedge-shaped, slightly stepped, vaulted 
 ceilings of Yaxchilan present most tastefully executed, positively classical 
 forms of vaulted ceilings, which are .scarcely if ever found in such perfec- 
 tion in any of the other ruined cities. 
 
 At each end of the vestibule there is a great stone bench. Tlie out- 
 side length of the structure is 12 m. 37 cm. ; outside breadth, 4 m. 93 cm. ; 
 height (exclusive of the former roof-comb), 5 m. 80 cm. 
 
 Structure 26 stands closely adjoining the right flank of Structure 25, 
 which it resembles in measurements, though it is in a much more advanced 
 stage of demolition. I examined all tlie lintels in search of sculpture, but 
 found 'none. Let me mention here, Ijy the way, that by descending the 
 steep slope leading from Structure 26 one comes out exactly at the back 
 of the Bird Temple. 
 
 Structure 37- Below the terrace of the stalactite column, near the left 
 hand corner of its substructure, lies the fairly well preserved ruin of an 
 edifice consisting of a single large chamber with three doorways in the north- 
 northeast facade. The lintels over these entrances are without sculpture. 
 The friezes are very much injured. Above, on the flat roof, I found the 
 remains of an airy, threefold roof-comb, the lowest row of openings of which, 
 
156 RESEARCHES IX THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 formed by three rows of pillars, is still to be seen. It is greatly to be 
 regretted that it is no longer possible to determine the complete plan of this 
 remarkable roof-comb, which is the only example of its kind. 
 
 Stnidure 28. Near by, but several metres in advance of it, stood a 
 structure probably similar to the last — that is, consisting of a single chamber 
 with three entrances in front — now, however, almost wholly fallen down. 
 Only part of the rear wall is still standing. I found the three lintels among 
 the debris, but they are without ornament. 
 
 Structure 29. This edifice surmounts a massive substructure and con.sisted 
 of one great apartment, the fagade of which with three doorways faced north- 
 northeast, and it had three corresponding apartments in the rear. It is prob- 
 able that this structure, at present badly demolished, was once adorned by a 
 roof-comb, now fallen down, which was supported by the central wall. 
 
 Unfortunately the massive lintels of the entrances in the principal facade 
 wliicli I excavated were all without sculpture. I found only a circular altar 
 on one of the landings of the stairway. 
 
 Structure 30 (Plate XLII, 1). Another massive substructure near by is 
 crowned by a temple of two apartments, which is still very well preserved. 
 The length of the temple is about 11 m. 30 cm.; breadtli, 5 m. 40 cm.; 
 height, exclusive of the fallen roof-comb, 6 m. The base and the main wall 
 surfaces are plain. The doorways interrupt the facade, which faces north- 
 northeast. The middle entrance, which is surrounded by a slightly projecting 
 border of stone and stucco, is only 52 cm. wide, while the other entrances 
 are 90 cm. wide. 
 
 The frieze has projecting lower and upper cornices. The stucco has 
 fallen off of the actual frieze surfaces, but I think I am right in saying that 
 on the fai^ade side the frieze had three conventionalized serpent-faces, the 
 eyes of which have been simplified to squares, and the mouth to a long rect- 
 ano-le. The undecorated frieze surfaces had each a little niche. My photo- 
 graph of this structure show.s two of the simplified heads and the little niche 
 between them. 
 
 The stucco on the exterior of the structure seems to have been allowed 
 to retain its natural yellowish-white color, but a broad red band ran all 
 around the building below the projecting cornices of the frieze. 
 
 From the terraces in front of the temple, where I found a small cu'cular 
 altar but no stelse, a monumental flight of steps leads far down to the ap- 
 proaches to the curved embankment, quite near the Labyrinth. 
 
 The lintels are of the finest limestone, which looks very much like litho- 
 graphic stone, but they have no sculptures on the under side. 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 157 
 
 The steep triangular vaults of the two chambers are severely straight- 
 lined, and slightly truncated at the top. 
 
 Two doorways lead from the vestibule into the rear apartment, the floor of 
 which is on the same plane with that of the vestibule, while m Yucatec struc- 
 tures the rear chambers are generally one step higher than the vestibule. 
 The vestibule is 952 cm. long, 480 cm. high, and 133 cm. broad ; the rear 
 apartment is 140 cm. broad. 
 
 The plan of this temple is here given (Fig. 55). 
 
 (0' 
 
 Fig. 55. — Structure 30 ; Sf.ctiox and Ground-plan (restored). 
 c, form of interior doorways. 
 
 Structures 31 and 32. Leaving the structure last described and proceed- 
 ing in a west-northwesterly direction — always keeping at a certain elevation 
 — past numerous heaps of stones (remains of smaller edifices), two structures 
 are reached, lying side by side, the strong walls of which, built of large 
 blocks of stone, liaving partially resisted the encroachments of vegetation. 
 The facades of the two structures have fallen down, and some of the gigantic 
 lintels have slipped down the mountain side. I examined all the lintels, but 
 found none with sculpture. 
 
 The traveller who ivishes to visit these two edifices will do better to 
 push forward on the curved embankment behind the Labyrinth in order to 
 ascend the mountain of the Lesser Acropolis from that point. He will thus 
 unfailingly reach the two structures. 
 
 IV. Tpie Great Acropolis, which crowns the iionxTAiN eidge from 
 THE Temple of the headless Ket.salkoatl to the three distant 
 South Temples. 
 
 Structure S3. The TemjAe of Ketsalkoatl, whose head has heen struck off 
 (Plates XLII, 2, XLV, 1). Ascending now the remainder of the little stair- 
 way with small steps described above, one comes out upon the northern corner 
 
158 RESEARCHES IX THE DSDMATSIXTLA VALLEY. 
 
 of the terrace with the stalactite column. This column — thrown down, alas ! 
 by some vandal — has little vertical rows of glyphs inci.sed in its depressions, 
 the details of which are almost obliterated. I have found similar stalactite 
 columns in front of other structures, which leads to the supposition that there 
 must be an extensive stalactite cave near Yaxchilan from which the ancients 
 procured their columns. This cave, probably concealed in the neighboring 
 mountain range, is at present wholly unknown. It would be interesting to 
 find it at some future time. 
 
 1 found no circular altar, either before or behind the stalactite column ; 
 but on the mountain slope near the little stairway with the small steps, there 
 lies a moderately thick, circular sacrificial stone, 140 cm. in diameter, prob- 
 ably the largest in Yaxchilan. The upper surface still shows traces of a cir- 
 cular ornamentation consisting of pictures and glyphs, but, as usual, it is so 
 badly weathered that it cannot be photographed. It is not possible that 
 this stone can have lain originally where it now lies ; it was probably thrown 
 down from one of the upper terraces by thoughtless persons. 
 
 From the plateau with the stalactite column, a broad stairway of a few 
 steps leads up to the very last platform and to the temple upon it. This 
 stairway is centrally placed with regard to the fa9ade, and is interrupted 
 below in the middle by a small projecting altar. 
 
 The principal fa9ade of this temple faces nortjieast, and presents an 
 imposing appearance to one who has some comprehension of the remote epoch 
 to which it belongs, and is capable of appreciating the enormous difficulties 
 under which people of that distant period must have performed their labors. 
 This facade is all the more precious because it seems to represent the princi- 
 pal type of the religious architecture of this branch of the Mayas, another 
 example of which it would be difficult to find in these wildernesses, owing 
 to the fearful destruction caused everywhere by the luxuriant growth of 
 vegetation. 
 
 This structure has, as usual, a somewhat projecting unornamented base. 
 The principal wall surfaces are also plain. The high sloping frieze has a 
 projecting lower cornice, which consists first of a course of sloping slabs, 
 upon which are placed smaller slabs and stucco work, which together form a 
 transition to the somewhat receding, backward sloping frieze-surfaces. The 
 surface of the frieze is interrupted, on the facade side, by three high shallow 
 niches. The central one is over the mifldle door ; the other two are in the 
 middle of the remaining surfaces to the right and left, which do not exactly 
 correspond with the middle of the right and left entrances. 
 
 Each niche has a bracket consisting of an angular, simplified serpent's 
 face ; that is, two deep square eyes and an oblong mouth can plainly be 
 recognized. By way of filling up the empty spaces, there are two little niches 
 on each side of the square face. These brackets formerly supported figures 
 made of small stones and stucco, one of which filled each niche. The figure 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 159 
 
 in the right-hand niche has entirely crumbled away, while the left-liand niche 
 still plainly shows a personage of rank sitting Turkish fashion. The figure 
 in the middle niche is still preserved in the main, but is difficult to describe ; 
 it seems to represent a corpse prepared for burial. 
 
 The surfaces between the large shallow niches, as well as those between 
 the niches and the corners of the building, are filled out by a system of 
 shallow niches of various sizes, some of them terminating at the top in a 
 stepped arch. These latter contained in part small figures which have now 
 for the most part fallen off. 
 
 The upper cornice seems to have consisted only of sloping layers of thin 
 slabs of stone projecting very slightly. At the back and on the sides the 
 frieze was treated in the same manner as in front. 
 
 Along the middle of the flat roof, which is flush with the upper edge of 
 the upper cornice of the frieze, rises a lofty roof-comb which is the architec- 
 tural transformation of what was originally a framework of skulls, (isoiitpaiitli). 
 The masonry of the roof-comb is uninterrupted in the middle, but the remain- 
 ing surfaces are perforated by small windows. This central piece of masonry 
 shows a throne-bench upon which sits an extraordinary figure, whose thin 
 liudos are out of all proportion to the portly cylindrical body. His legs hang 
 down over the bench, while the arms are raised upward. The head seems 
 to wear an animal mask with a tall, cruciform head-dress. It is ditticult 
 to determine whether tliis sculptured figure is meant to represent a corpse 
 prepared for burial with mummy wrappings, or some mythical personage. 
 
 The rows of windows are joined to the massive central wall, two hori- 
 zontal rows always forming a separate group or section. Three double rows 
 are still preserved, and the beginnings of a fourth, making eight rows of 
 windows in all. There are no means of determining whether the roof-comb 
 was still higher, or whether the eighth row formed the finish. The windows 
 of the first row are of the usual form, rather higher than they are iu-oail, and 
 number eleven on each side of the middle wall, making twenty-two in all. 
 The windows of the second row are all T-shaped, and their little columns fwe 
 broad enough below to admit of a verysinall rectangular window. The third, 
 fifth, and seventh rows have, like the first, rectangular windows of equal size, 
 but in the fourth, si.Ktli, and eighth rows a rather taller window always 
 alternates with a shorter one. 
 
 The length of the structure is 22 m. ]8 cm.; breadth, 4 m. SS cm.; 
 height, exclusive of roof-comb. 7 m. The roof-comb — supposing it to consist 
 of no more than eight rows of windows — is about 5 m. 75 cm. in height. 
 
 All the exterior surfaces and all the accessories are carefully covered 
 with the natural yellowish-white stucco, the color of which has been retained. 
 Under the first projecting course of slabs forming the cornice, a broad red 
 band ran all around the structure, bordering likewise the three doorways in 
 the facjade as far down as the edge of the base. The breadth of the red 
 
160 
 
 RESEARCHES JN THE DSUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 band on tlie lintel of the central doorway corresponds to the thickness of the 
 lintel, and has white spaces left upon it in which red hands are painted. 
 
 The principal apartment of the temple is 13 m. 33 cm. long; 2 m. 60 
 cm. broad ; 5 m. 60 cm. high. 
 
 A steep ogive vault, witli three sliglit steps and truncated at the top, 
 covers the whole structure, including the small, lateral chambers, which are 
 190-195 cm. broad, this breadth being a part of the length of the whole 
 interior. 
 
 Since the roof-comb, as 1 have said, does not correspond with the front 
 or the rear walls of the temple, but very nearly with the middle of the 
 vaulted ceiling, the architects, wishing to relieve the latter of the enormous 
 pressure brought to bear upon it, threw out, from the longitudinal rear wall 
 within, four strong buttresses, which, together with the two partition walls 
 of the lateral chambers, have certainly answered their purpose, for the struc- 
 ture still stands after the lapse of perhaps a thousand years. For a perfect 
 comprehension of this remarkable construction I must refer the reader to my 
 drawing of tlie plan (Fig. 56). 
 
 Fig. 56. — Structcrk i-i, The Temple np Ketsalko.^ti. ; Section and Ghound-plan 
 
 (RESTt)REu), 
 
 The two central buttresses are somewhat broader and of greater projec- 
 tion than the two lateral ones, which does not in the least impair the regu- 
 larity of the plan of construction. This circumstance has been hitherto mis- 
 understood l)y other travellers, who have not appreciated the symmetry of 
 this arrangement, and whose drawings of the interior of the temple have 
 shown exaggerated irregularities. 
 
 The interior walls were all covered with white stucco ; but in tlie niches 
 which are formed by the buttresses, faint remains of red scroll-work and 
 figures can still be seen. 
 
 The central niche forming the sanctuary had, at a height of 240 cm., 
 a horizontal ceiling of beams covered with a layer of plaster and thin .slabs 
 of stone. Upon a low step in this niche was seated the stone figure of Ket- 
 salkoatl, the principal god of the Maya-Toltecs, executed entirely in the round 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 161 
 
 (Plate XLV, 1). The height of this figure is 220 cm. ; therefore, with its 
 head-dress, it must liave nearly touched the ceiling. 
 
 The wood-cutters, to whose depredations in the ruined city I have 
 alluded already, barbarously struck off the head of this image of the god, 
 intending to take it to Tenosique. As they did not have the projier imple- 
 ments," they demolished the neck and the lower part of the face. After the 
 head had been detached from the body, they found it too heavy and left it 
 lying beside the prostrate figiu'e. Whether the wooden ceilhig had lieeu de- 
 stroyed by the same 
 vandals, or whether it 
 had been removed be- 
 fore their advent, I 
 could not ascertain, 
 and therefore it is im- 
 possible to determine 
 whether the under 
 side was plain or orna- 
 mented witli interest- 
 ing carvings. 
 
 The figure of Ket- 
 salkoatl (Fig. 57) was 
 placed upon the step of 
 the niche, sitting cross- 
 legged in Asiatic fash- 
 ion, with dignified bear- 
 ing, his hands with fans 
 of feathers resting on 
 his knees, from each of 
 which depends a little 
 ornamental chain. Ilis 
 wrists are adorned with 
 cuffs ; his broad girdle 
 has a large face-mask 
 in front, below which 
 hang the pendants and 
 the sash. The breast- 
 cape is of scale-work 
 and has an edge of 
 beads at the top, which 
 may also be regarded 
 as a necklace. Three 
 
 - Kets.vi.koatl (llCi 
 
 lid luwtjr p;irt of face le^^tored). 
 
 medallions with face-masks ornament the garment of scales ; one in the 
 centre with pendants below and at the sides, and one at each shoulder with 
 
 MEM. PEABODY MUSEUM II. 
 
162 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 pendants only below. Below the central medallion, a narrow plate with three 
 divisions at each end reaches quite across the breast. 
 
 The god has oblique eyes (that is, Chinese or Mongolian eyes), and his 
 face is surmounted by a serpent's head, the upper jaw of which rests upon 
 a head-band of rattles. The serpent's head also has a head-band with a large 
 round flower in the centre and smaller ones above. An ornament of glyphic 
 character in three parts is attached to each side of the serpent's head. Thick 
 plumes of feathers surround the whole head-dress. 
 
 The hard, sandy limestone shows its natural whitish-grey color. Gay 
 colors are no longer discernible. I made a very careful drawing of this rep- 
 resentation of the god, as it would be extremely difficult to photograph it 
 under present conditions. It is undeniable that these images of gods in 
 Yaxchilan and Piedras Negras, sitting cross-legged in their niches, and wear- 
 ing serpent head-dresses or turbans, are strongly suggestive of the Indo- 
 Turanian representations of Buddlia. At all events, the oblique eyes indicate 
 Turanian origin, even tliough the historical reason why the principal god of 
 the IMaya-Toltecs (Ketsalkoatl ?) displays the Turanian type may not be clear 
 to us. But where history is mute, monuments are eloquent. 
 
 However that may be, Indians come even now from the remotest wilder- 
 ness to lay down before this image of the god, their canal-rinie (" Man from 
 above," or " Man of heaven "), little sacrificial gifts, and to burn incense in 
 tastefully ornamented vessels adorned with feathers, and to perform strange 
 dances to the sound of the iunhtl, during which they drink copiously of 
 x-halelii (.s-baltse). One of these dances is called by the monteros "la danza 
 del pito-real," the dance of the toucan (Genus liainphastos), because each of 
 the participants wears the stuffed skin of this bird as a head-dress. 
 
 It is much to be regretted that no traveller has as yet succeeded in 
 witnessing these remarkable rites. But the Indians come — no one knows 
 whence. They suddenly appear, have their celebration, . and vanish in the 
 forests without leaving a trace that could be followed up. 
 
 The incense vessels exhibit certain differences according to the settle- 
 ment from which they come (Plate LXXX, 2, where three are .shown on the 
 altar, and compare witli Fig. 8 in Part I of this volume). They all have 
 strangely formed human heads on the front. Masculine facial forms are 
 most frequently observed, with strongly marked aquiline noses, ribbed bands 
 across the foreheads, circular ear-plates, and a knob at the root of the no.se 
 and one on each cheek. There are also faces with feminine' features, which 
 are naturally treated differently. The main body of the vessel is usually 
 smooth, though some have certain sunk designs. It may be assumed that 
 most of them are decorated with bright colors, but as they are neither var- 
 nished nor glazed these disappear in time. The entire floor of the temple 
 is covered with these clay incense vessels from all of which the heads have 
 unfortunately been broken off. The mischievous visitors to these ruins — 
 
YAXCHILAN. 163 
 
 who seem to harbor an inconceivable liostility towards every object wliich is 
 clean and nnimpaired — have the stupid habit of knocking off the heads of 
 all the incense vessels which they find, in order either to throw them away 
 or take them to their children for toys. It seems to be too much trouble for 
 them to take away a vessel that is whole or uninjured. 
 
 The little windows of the roof-comb are also full of shards, which seems 
 to indicate that incense is likewise burnt above, which no doubt produces a 
 fantastic illumination at nocturnal feasts. 
 
 During my flying visit in 1895, I had the rare good fortune to find four 
 quite new, brightly painted incense vessels in the niche of Ketsalkoatl, and 
 four others in one of the chambers of the Shore Temple, which had been 
 placed there two months before my arrival at Yaxchilan by Lacantuns, who 
 had made a pilgriuiage hither. On these vessels the facial expression was 
 accentuated by red, black, and white lines, and the round body of the vessel 
 was ornamented with perpendicular stripes of the same colors. In all of 
 these vessels there were black remains of melted copal. The jVIexican name 
 for this black, melted mass is cAu/iopo/l (tsapopotl). 
 
 The three once gayly colored sculptures, which adorn the under side of 
 the lintels of the three doorways, are unquestionably the most important 
 feature of the temple. 
 
 The stete of Seibal and Piedras Negras are on as grand a scale as, those 
 of Yaxchilan, but in regard to the sculpture on the under side of the lintel, 
 laxohilan stands alone. It is necessary to see these sculptures to convince 
 one's self of the truth of this assertion. It is no exaggeration to say that in 
 fineness of execution and general artistic value they can be compared with the 
 best that Assyria and Egyjjt have produced. 
 
 Lintd 1, sculptured on ihe under side (Plate XL VI). Height of sculpture, 
 including border, 87 cm. (running with the width of the doorway, which is 
 90 cm.). Breadth, including border, 92 cm. (running with the thickness of 
 the wall, which is 114 cm.). 
 
 A richly clad high priest holds with his right hand a little image toward 
 a niche formed by rows of glyphs. The little image has a snouted face 
 and wears a small helmet with plume of feathers; the leg by whicli it is 
 held ends, as usual, in a serpent stretching forward. The Ahaucan wears 
 buskins and leg-bands ; a ribbed loin-cloth, richly ornamented ; breast-cape of 
 scales adorned with three medallions, with a larger one under the central one, 
 half-hidden by the horizontal breast-plate ; a cuff of scale-work on the riglit 
 wrist, and on the left a ouii with a large face-mask. The head-dress consists 
 of a tall calpac-shaped priest's hat with horizontal stripes, and a border at 
 the lower edge, voluminous feather, and scroll-work at the iKtck, and a tall 
 crest and plume of feathers on top. 
 
 Behind the Ahaucan .stands a young girl clad in a long sack-like garment, 
 who holds with lx)th hands the pouch with its sacrificial gifts. The pouch is 
 
164 
 
 EESEARCHES IN THE USDMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 tied together at the top, and has an incised glyph on the front. This person- 
 age, otherwise plainly dressed, has also a head-dress of exceedingly elaborate 
 scroll-work, and is drawn entirely in profile, wliile only the face of the priest 
 is in profile, the body being in front view. 
 
 Tlie unoccupied spaces are filled out with glyphs. I find in all 19 + 4 + 
 3+7 + 1 (the latter on the pouch) = 34 glyphs. 
 
 Color: In 1895 there were very slight traces of color remaining on this 
 undersculpture. From the coloring whicli still remained at that time on the 
 imdersculptures of Lintels 2 and 3, it is possible to imagine the colors in 
 the following order (according to the general rule, as it were). The entire 
 border, a decided dark blue ; all the glyphs Ijright red ; the entire background, 
 wherever it appears, dark red ; the flesh of all the personages intensified to 
 bright red ; all the ornamentations and scroll-work on the clothing and the 
 helmets alternately red and green ; the striped part of the priest's hat green ; 
 all the feather-work invariably green. 
 
 Lintel 2, sculptured on the under side (Plate XLVII). Height of sculp- 
 ture inclusive of border, 82 cm. (running with the width of the doorway, 
 which is 91 cm.). Breadth, inclusive of border. 111 cm. (running with the 
 thickness of the wall, whiclr is 114 cm.). 
 
 A liigh priest, or Ahaucan, stands before an altar of glyphs with a stela 
 which, by the projection of the two upper glyphs, is made to look like a 
 niche. In each hand the priest holds an ornamental cross, one horizontally 
 and the other vertically. Each cross is surmounted by the bird ketsalli, while 
 the transverse arms end in round flowers. This Ahaucan, who is likewise 
 represented in front view, excepting his face, is clad and adorned quite like 
 the one sculptured on the under side of Lintel 1, except that the horizontal 
 breast-plate and the face-mask on the left cuff are wanting. He wears a 
 priest's hat of the same shape as the one described above, the accessories 
 naturally displaying some deviations. In this case a head surmounts the 
 priest's hat, and above it rises a serpent curving forward. 
 
 Behind the altar formed of glyphs, opposite the higli priest, stands a 
 second pri«st drawn quite in profile, likewise richly dressed and with a similar 
 hat also surmounted by a head and a serpent curved forward. This person- 
 age, drawn on a somewhat smaller scale, also carries a cross in his right 
 hand, to the top of which a Trogon peivoninus is likewise attached. The three 
 crossesi all end below in an appendage of streamers, wliicli naturally falls 
 in a right angle from the cross, which is held in a horizontal position. On 
 the background appear 6 + 9 + 3 + 5 glyphs = 23 in all. 
 
 Color : The entire border is a fine dark blue ; all the glyphs bright red ; 
 the background dark red ; the flesh of the two personages bright red ; the 
 garments, ornaments, and their pendants are either green, or bright red, or 
 composed of alternating red and green. For example, the capes and cuffs of 
 scales are green (mostly a somewhat dark, Ijluish green) ; the faces of the 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 165 
 
 medallions are red, and tlieir edges red and green. As to the large green 
 hats of the priests, with their accessories, — the calpac-shaped main portion 
 is alwat/s green, all the scroll-work is composed of red and green, the jaw and 
 eye formations being always red. The superimposed human heads are red ; 
 the serpents, green ; the feather-work mostly green, but occasionally blue. 
 The St. Andrew's cross (X) behind the Ahaucan's head is green ; the ketsal 
 birds are, of course, green ; the crosses red, their round flowers red and 
 green ; their appendages (the pendent streamers) green. 
 
 The sight of the prettily executed crosses in the hands of the Maya- 
 Toltec priests of Yaxchilan would have delighted the Spanish conquerors, for 
 it would have furnished fresh data for their favorite theme of the laljors of 
 the Apostle " Santo Tomas " among the peoples of America. 
 
 Without indulging in such futile speculations, we still must admit that 
 to people belonging to the sphere of Christian civilization it is indeed inter- 
 esting to find that the cross also occurs as a decorative, symbolical ol)ject in 
 the religious representations of long-forgotten temples buried in the primeval 
 forest of America. 
 
 Liniel S, sailpiured on ihe under side (Plate XLVIIT). Height of sculp- 
 ture, inclusive of border, 87 cm. (running with the width of the doorway, 
 which is 90 cm.). Breadth, inclusive of border, 95 cm. (running with the 
 thickness of the wall, which is 114 cm.). 
 
 A high priest — represented in front view with his face in profile — 
 holds with his right hand the prettily executed little image of a god towards 
 a second priest in profile, who on his part holds out a similar figure with his 
 right hand, so that the two little images clasp hands. The Ahaucan wears 
 high buskins and tasteful leg-bands ; the broad girdle is ornamented below 
 with a double border of shells, and is adorned with three large masks, of 
 which the middle one and right-hand one are visible, while the left-hand one 
 is concealed by the large mask on the left cuff ; the breast-cape of bead scale- 
 work is ornamented with pretty medallions, below which is the breast-plate 
 of handsome scroll-work ; the head-dress, differs from that of the Ahaucans 
 previously described : Upon a diadem of rayless stars lies a piece of the ser- 
 pent forming the head-dress ; above this, the rear portion of the serpent's 
 body forms a great 9-shaped convolution ; a large, grotesque face is attached 
 to the front of the 9 ; above it, a crest with a St. Andrew's cross (X) in 
 front, and a long plume of feathers bent over backward. Behind the 9 
 there is a reticulated pattern with thick feather-work at the back, out of 
 which the serpent's body once more projects, ending this time in the " spec- 
 tacle face " figure. 
 
 The second personage, probably also of priestly rank, is not as elabo- 
 rately dressed. The head-dress is entirely different. It consists of a gro- 
 tesque face with projecting snout and ending in serpent convolutions, scrolls 
 and feather-work at the back and top. 
 
166 
 
 EESEAECIIES IN THE USUMATSIXTLA VALLEY. 
 
 The little idols with the snouted faces are also prettily adorned ; the 
 leg of each, by which it is held, ends in a serpent stretching forward. 
 Glyphs on background : 10 + 4 + 4 + 6 = 24. 
 
 Color : The whole border i.s dark blue ; the glyphs, bright red ; back- 
 ground, dark red ; garments and ornaments, like those of the previously 
 described personages, partly green and partly red, certain articles, like breast- 
 plate, cuffs, etc., being always green and greenish blue ; others, as, for 
 instance, the shell border, always red ; the detads of the helmet alternately 
 green and red, but so arranged that the jaws and eyes, or entire faces, are 
 always red ; the feathers always green ; the flesh of the priests, as well as 
 that of the little idols, is, as usual, bright red. No traces of yellow could be 
 discovered on any of the three undersculptures, either because this color was 
 not used, or because its power of resistance is not sufficient to preserve it. 
 
 In 1897 I photographed these three under sculptures at night with mag- 
 nesium light, hampered by great difficulties. In order to attain my end, 
 I was obliged to invent an illumination especially suited to the case, and to 
 make many experiments. At last the three undersculptures were beautifully 
 reproduced, and the nicest details came out perfectly. 
 
 On the right flank of the Ketsalkoatl temple (Structure 33) the mountain 
 sides slope far down to the ravine which separates the Acropolis mountain 
 range from the neighboring range on the southeast. 
 
 Ten or twelve metres below the left flank (that is, the northwest side) of 
 the platform of the temple, lies a plateau protected on all .sides. Upon its 
 northeast edge stand Structures 27, 28, 29, and 30. An investigation of this 
 triangular plateau resulted in finding neither stelte nor circular altars. De- 
 scending at the bach^oi the temple, first a terrace of about five metres in 
 height and then one of about seven metres, a narrow transverse plateau is 
 reached. After crossing this, one comes to a long flight of steps leading to a 
 great terrace which is about eight metres IKgher than the transverse plateau. 
 
 This terrace we will call the Terrace of the Sepulchral Pyramids. It is 
 bounded on the south side by Structure 34, the fai^ade of which faces north ; 
 its left flank adjoins Sepulchral Pyramid 3-5 with its stairway (its front) 
 almost exactly facing the magnetic north ; while the centre of the terrace is 
 occupied by Sepulchral Pyramid 36 with its stairway (also its front) facing east. 
 
 Structure 8Jf. The Struclitre of the Walled-up Middle Chamber and of 
 Lintel 4, sculptured on the under side. This is a curious, badly demolished 
 structure, the purpose of the walled-up middle chamber of which did not 
 become quite clear to me. I could only determine that there had been a 
 small apartment at each end of the central chamber, each probably having a 
 doorway on the facade side. The central chamber probably had two door- 
 ways. At any rate, I excavated the lintels of two entrances, but 1 could not 
 
YAXCIIILAN. 
 
 1G7 
 
 find a third. A very confusing civcumstance is the fact that this cliamber 
 was walled up from below, as it seems, while openings were left above just 
 large enough for a man to slip through. Could these narrow openings, 
 covered with great slabs, have been burial chambers ? Or were the dead laid 
 a\vay in the massive masonry l:ielo\v ? This question cannot be decided with- 
 out clearing away an enormous mass of debris. All that I could do with my 
 people was to search the mass of debris in front of the middle chamber 
 for lintel sculptures. I succeeded in finding only the half of a lintel, — 
 No. 4 in my general enumeration, — the sculpture of which, although much 
 injured by rain, was still in a condition to be photographed after being 
 carefully brushed and washed. 
 
 Lintel 4 sculptured on the under side. This stone was nearly 2 m. in 
 length, and 30 cm. thick. The lower breadth of the stone (the breadth of 
 half of the entire sculpture) i.s 48 cm. The upper surface of the stone is 
 much broader, since the narrow face, turned toward the chamber, was cut 
 obliquely (Fig. 58) in order to form a transition to 
 
 the vaulted ceiling. The height of the sculpture •c^^ — • , ^ 
 
 without the border is 111 cm. Clearing away the \ , i ' 
 
 rubbish at the foot of the mass of debris, I found 
 
 the other half of the lintel, 54 cm. in breadth, but Fio.58.— .Section- of Lintki.4. 
 its sculpture was so thoroughly demolished that it 
 
 could not be photographed. We must therefore content ourselves with the 
 description of the partially preserved half. Later, in 1900, it became clear 
 that the representation on Lintel 4 must have resembled that on Lintel 26 
 (Plate LVIIl). The subject of the representation could accordingly be 
 determined in spite of the missing half. 
 
 On the destroyed half stood a personage of rank presenting a gift to the 
 sacrificial priest, and from his hands a great pendant fell forward, which is 
 plainly visible in the pre.served half. The priest holds in his right hand a 
 large sacrificial knife. He has footwear, leg-bands, and cuffs. A scarf laid 
 about the neck reaches down the whole length of the body, and on the sides of 
 the scarf are round floAvers like those on the garment' of the sacrificial priest 
 on the sculpture of Lintel 20. In this case the priest wears a tiger helmet, 
 with plumes of feathers extending toward the back. On the background are 
 fifteen squares, cut in relief, upon which glyphs are still recognizable. The 
 colors on this sculpture have, of course, quite disappeared. 
 
 While we were excavating for the missing half of the lintel we came upon 
 a circular altar, which was, however, quite without sculpture. On the two 
 stones of the lintel of the second doorway the sculpture was past recognition, 
 for which reason I gave it no number. It might be referred to as No. 4 B. 
 A third lintel may be in existence, but we could not find it. 
 
168 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE USUIIATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 Structure 35. Tlie Sepulchral Pyramid on the left flank of the walled~up 
 structure. 
 
 Structure 36. The Scpidchral Pyramid in the middle of the terrace loith 
 Stela 0. 
 
 The two sepulchral pyramids, 35 and 36, differ very essentially from all 
 the structures of Yaxohilan, excepting the great stepp(Jd pyramid of Structure 
 18. They are both constructed of hewn blocks half a metre in thickness. 
 The corners of both are drawn inward, as it were, while the central surfaces 
 of the four sides project somewhat. In spite of the simplicity of construction 
 of tliese pyramids, an idea uf their form cannot be adequately conveyed 
 witliout an accompanying drawing, owing to the system of partly receding 
 and partly projecting steps. It is probable that on the flattened apex of each 
 of these pyramids, there once stood a small open tem.plete, both perhaps 
 containing small steliB. The presumable templetes have fallen down, and I 
 could find neither stela nor circular altar belonging to Pyramid 35. I found 
 only a stalactite column on the ground in front of the stairway. 
 
 On the other hand, at the foot of the stairway of Pyramid 36 I found, 
 besides a stalactite column, a series of six little circular altars, each of which 
 had once been ornamented with a circular design and glyphs. 
 
 I set up the one best preserved of these circular altars and photographed 
 it (Plate LXXX, 1). On its upper surface it exliibits two concentric rows of 
 glyphs in the eight radiating divisions. The glyphs are still partially recogni- 
 zable, but the circular design in the middle is wholly worn away by the action 
 of the elements. The stone has a diameter of 80_cm., and a thickness of 
 only 16 cm. 
 
 At the foot of the pyramid I found near the stalactite column a small 
 stela (No. 9 in my general enumeration) broken in three pieces (Plate LXXII, 
 3). I presume, however, that it once stood above on the platform and had 
 been thrown down. The total height of the three pieces (not including the part 
 which was in the ground) is 154 cm. ; breadth, 48 cm.; thickness, 11 J- cm. 
 
 This mortuary pillar once had flat reliefs on both sides, but the one on 
 the face which was turned upward in falling is wholly wa.shed away ; while 
 the one on the face turned downward is excellently preserved, in spite of 
 its slight projection. In my opinion, this sculpture again represents the 
 beheficent god, not with the chest of good fortune and rope of sweets, but 
 holding in each hand a great horn of plenty. 
 
 The god is represented in front view, except his face. Owing to the 
 narrowness of the stone, the sculptor was forced to make the body quite 
 slender in order to have room enough for the arms hanging down. The loin- 
 cloth is held together by a girdle of St. Andrew's crosses, the broad bow and 
 ends of which reach to the knees. A kind of feather mantle with a cape of 
 scale-work is thrown over the upper part of the body. The cape has no 
 medallions, but on the lowest border it has a breast-plate of scroll-work with 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 169 
 
 a St. Andrew's cross in the central oval. Below the breast-plate is a large 
 medallion without a face-mask ; large cuffs appear at the wrist. The much- 
 twisted helmet lias a diadem of round stars at the base. The horns of plenty 
 have at their lower ends two round holes out of which hang little streamers. 
 The upper finish of the deity side is formed by eight glyphs. The colors 
 have disappeared. 
 
 The two pyramids have remained unopened up to the present time, 
 owing probably to the great blocks of stone which would have to be removed. 
 
 Structures 37 and 38. Leaving the sepulchral pyramids and going in a 
 south-southwesterly direction across a stretcli_of level ground, very little debris 
 is encountered, but only great slabs of stone, which lie on the ground and 
 seem to be coverings for open drains. Climbing higher still over two (or three) 
 more terraces, — upon which I found some circular altars but no stelae, — the 
 ruins of two adjacent buildings are reached, which look like an enormous 
 barricade. The facades of the two buildings formerly faced north-northeast. 
 These structures strategetically close the mountain ridge against an enemy 
 who might take up a position between them and the distant South Temples. 
 
 The rear wall of the larger or southeast Structure 37 is well preserved 
 as far as the beginnings of the frieze. Some of the slabs fallen from the 
 lower cornice of the frieze are of such large proportions that visitors to the 
 ruins have mistaken them for lintel-stones, and examined them in the expec- 
 tation of finding sculptures. 
 
 I searched the ruins of the fallen facade in- the hope of fniding a lintel- 
 stone of one of the entrances projecting out of the debris, but the lintels have 
 become invisible. They must have slipped forward and are lying thus deeply 
 buried under the mass of ruins. There are probably three of them. Whether 
 they are ornamented with sculpture or not must remain uncertain, as I could 
 not undertake an excavation at that time. 
 
 The adjoining Structure 38 (the northwest structure), which is scarcely 
 half as long as its neighbor, has long been only a formless heap of stones, 
 overgrown with trees. The fagade can have had but two entrances at most. 
 There is little reason to hope that its lintel-stones were decorated with 
 sculpture. 
 
 Climbing over the barricade formed by the ruins of the two structures, 
 one comes to very extensive quarries. Pursuing one's way in the direction 
 in which they lie, with the walls of rock on the right and the southeastern 
 slope of the mountain on the left, not another vestige of a ruin is to be 
 found. Nevertheless, I concluded (1897) to explore this mountain ridge to 
 the very end, and by keeping continually in a south-southwesterly direction I 
 finally reached its last rise. There was nothing to be seen but trees. Not- 
 withstanding this, I climbed up, and before me there gleamed among the 
 
 MEM. PEABODT M08EUM II. — 22 
 
170 
 
 EESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 trees a beautiful temple, the first South Temple. A little further back I saw 
 the second, still more beautiful, and yet further back the third temjJe in a 
 very advanced state of demolition. Here, then, were the three temples, im- 
 posingly placed on terraces, in echelon, one near the other. As pushing for- 
 ward from the Temple of Ketsalkoatl to the South Temples is fraught with 
 great difficulties and many obstacles, and the tall growth of trees makes any 
 oversight of the way quite impossible, I am inclined to think that we covered 
 a distance of at least one kilometre, the air-line being, doubtless, somewhat 
 shorter. 
 
 Structure 39, or South Temple I and Stela 10 (Plate XLIII, 2, XLV, 2). 
 The ascent of the last rise mentioned above brings one to the first platform 
 or terrace. Leaving this and ascending the now ruined stairway to the second 
 terrace, and climbing about two metres higher, one reaches the actual plat- 
 form on which the temple stands (Fig. 59). The principal faijade of the 
 
 c/bS 
 
 dl 
 
 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 
 
 Fig. 09- — Structure 39: Section axd Ground-plan (restored). 
 
 temple faces north-northeast. Its agreeable proportions, the stepped lintels 
 of the doorways, the well-preserved frieze, and the remains of the roof-comb, 
 all combine to make a picturesque and pleasing impression. The base as 
 well as the principal walls consist of masonry covered with smooth stucco. 
 The fa9ade is interrupted by three doorways 106 tg 108 cm. wide, with a pro- 
 jecting stone on the right and on the left of each, forming a graceful transi- 
 tion to the large, smooth lintel-stone. The frieze has a strongly projecting 
 lower cornice and a less prominent upper one. Numerous projecting slabs 
 of stone on the slightly sloping frieze indicate that it was abundantly orna- 
 mented with figaires which have now fallen down. Of the fourth element, 
 the roof-comb, the whole length of which rests on the middle of the roof, only 
 the begmnings remain, which show that the construction was formed of rows 
 of little windows. The exterior of the back and sides of the structure is 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 171 
 
 treated like the front. The exterior length of the temple is 13 m. 80 cm. ; 
 exterior breadth, 4 m. 63 cm. ; height, without the roof-comb, 6 m. 10 cm. 
 
 The interior of the temple is covered by a steep ogival vault flattened at 
 the top. The long wall opposite the entrance has two broad buttresses, which, 
 developing in half ogives, rise to meet the keystones of the vaulted ceiling 
 and help support the burden of the roof-comb. This purpose is also served by 
 the buttresses, which form differently shaped open chambers at each end 
 of the temple interior. For a clear comprehension of this interior I must refer 
 the reader to my drawing of the plan of the temple. 
 
 The exterior, as well as the interior, of the temple is covered with white 
 stucco. There is no trace of red or any other color visible. The total length 
 of the interior is 929 cm. ; breadth, 213 cm. ; height from the floor to the 
 truncation, 496 cm. 
 
 Directly in front of the central niche formed by the two buttresses, there 
 is a circular sacrificial stone of whitish limestone, which very evidently did 
 service for a long time, exposed to the elements, before it 
 was placed within the temple (Fig. 60). It has a double 
 row of glyphs on the cylinder edge, much weathered, and 
 eight glyphs on top, wholly worn away, as is also the round 
 design in the centre. The diameter is 115 cm. ; thickness, 
 34 cm. Its symmetrical position in front of the niche g!j!|'i 
 (Plate XLV, 2), as also the circumstance that it was care- 
 fully placed upon three stones, proves that it had been brought inside in 
 Maya times and not by the wood-cutters of the present time, who would be 
 quite incapable of. such an admirable deed. 
 
 I found a circular altar on the edge of the upper platform on a line with 
 the centre of the whole structure, and another in the middle of the second 
 terrace from the top, — both, as usual, covered with weathered pictures 
 and inscriptions. Pondering upon this fact, the conviction was forced upon 
 me that a stela must have stood between the two altar-stones. On my return 
 to this place in 1900 I subjected the second terrace from the top to a very 
 thorough search, and concealed under a layer of earth and luxuriant vegeta- 
 tion I found the sought-for stela, to which in my general list of stelaj I have 
 given the number 10. 
 
 Stela 10 (Plate LXXIII). This stela had been broken into two pieces 
 in its fall. The principal portion, covered by the lower two-thirds of the 
 sculpture, lay with the deity side, which had faced the temple, turned upward. 
 The work' on this side has therefore lost all its nicetj- of detail, while the 
 human side, which fell face downward, is admirably preserved. The reverse 
 has happened to the upper part of the stela. ' The deity side had fallen face 
 downward and was well preserved ; the human side, turned skyward, was 
 wholly destroyed. Breadth of the stela, measured at about the middle, 115 
 cm. Thickness, 25 cm. Total length of the two pieces (exclusive of one 
 
172 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 that may have remained in the ground), 370 cm., — 73 cm. of which belong 
 to the smooth lowest portion. 
 
 The sculpture of the deity side is executed in much bolder relief than 
 that of the human side. It represents a principal personage in front view 
 whose head is adorned with a high omega-shaped head-dress. On each side 
 of the principal personage there is a secondary personage. 
 
 The face-mask with its scroll-work, which rises above the omega, is the 
 preserved portion, and above them in the form of a right-angled omega 
 or yoke J~L rises an ornamental beam decorated with characters of the 
 second manner of writing, and finished at each end with the " spectacle figure," 
 out of which develop open jaws in scroll-work, each holding a large profile 
 head. There is a face in profile below on each arm of the beam, and one on 
 each side of the omega. Above this decoration, on which there are six profile 
 heads, there are two ovals, in one of which sits, cross-legged, the small figure of 
 a man, and in the other that of a woman. Each little personage holds obliquely 
 in its arms a small ornamental beam, the upper end of which finishes in a 
 grotesque face. The lower end has no face, owing to want of space. There 
 is, besides, between the two ovals, a fine large profile head finished at the 
 bottom with a St. Andrew's cross. 
 
 The very delicately executed group of figures on the human side (Plate 
 LXXIll) has as a base two horizontal rows of seven glyphs each, — fourteen 
 in all. In the centre of the group is a warrior, richly dressed, holding a 
 lance in his right hand and a pendent ornament in his left. His body is ni 
 front view, and his face in profile ; his breast is adorned by a large medallion 
 containing a small figure sitting Turkish fashion. On the left of the warrior 
 of high rank, a second warrior in profile stands in an upright position, with a 
 serrated lance in his right hand and a pendent ornament in his left. On the 
 right of the chieftain is a third personage crouching upon the ground, and 
 above the latter rises a fourth, half concealed. Above the feather ornaments of 
 the chieftain's lance, the lower portions of three vertical rows of glyphs can be 
 seen. Besides these, there are four small glyphs, vertically placed on another 
 part of the background. The colors are all gone. The narrow side-faces had 
 only a very few glyphs; otherwise they were perfectly plain. 
 
 Structure Jfl, The South {or Central) Temple IT, and Stelte 11, IS, 13, ami 
 U (Plate XLIll, 1). 
 
 This magnificent temple likewise crowns a threefold terracing. I could 
 find nothing of interest on the lowest terrace or esplanade. From the latter 
 a broad stairway leads up to the second terrace, which is two and one-fourth 
 metres higher. Above, corresponding to the architectural centre, the stair- 
 way has a little projecting platform with a circular altar, behind which rises 
 a magnificent stela (No. 11), about four metres in (exterior) height. Upon 
 this same terrace, after a second search in 1900, I found buried in delu'is 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 173 
 
 two more stelsK, Nos. 13 and 14. From the second terrace another broad 
 stairway leads to the upper platform, which is about two metres higher up 
 and upon wliich the temple stands (Fig. 61). 
 
 On the edge of the platform, projecting somewhat over the stairway, still 
 on the imaginary central line, there lies a second perfectly round sacrificial 
 stone, 110 cm. in diameter. The sculptured pictures and inscriptions on both 
 the stones are washed away beyond recognition. 
 
 The temple with its decorative frieze, surmounted by the perforated roof- 
 comb, and with the magnificent deity pillar in the foreground, makes a most 
 
 Fig. 61. — Stiiucture 40; Sectio.n axd Ground-plan (restoked). 
 
 agreeable impression seen from the terrace below. The principal iaqade 
 almost exactly faces the magnetic northeast. 
 
 The base and the wall surfaces are treated very simply. The frieze has a 
 strongly projecting lower cornice, while the upper cornice is less accentuated. 
 The actual frieze surface has a slight backward slope. It has pilasters at the 
 corners with projecting slabs of stone, the figures which they once supported 
 having entirely disappeared. Above the middle entrance there is a niche 
 containing a seated figure, the stucco modelling of which has fallen off, but 
 the stone body still remains. On each side of the niche and also in the centre 
 of the remaining frieze surfaces to the right and left, there are peculiar cruci- 
 form ornaments, formed of a square intersected by a so-called Latin cross. 
 There are accordingly four such crosses and half a one on each corner pilaster. 
 It is not easy to guess how this form of cross originated; but I will remark 
 here that these crosses remind me of the similar ones, hewn from a single 
 stone and more elaborately carved, which 1 excavated in Cliichen-Itza in the 
 " Temple of the great Table of the Gods " and in the " Temple of the Tigers 
 and the Shields." 
 
174 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 The lowest row of windows of the badly ruined roof-comb is preserved. 
 The central, best-preserved part inrpresses the beholder as projecting outward 
 in a semi-circle, while the two wings appear to be in a straight line. It is 
 difficult to convince one's self that this effect of regularity could have been 
 produced by a displacement caused by the growth of the trees. The treat- 
 ment of the frieze and the roof-comb at the back is similar to that of the 
 front. There are no traces of color to be found on the exterior ; therefore I 
 am of the opinion that the natural white color of the stucco had been re- 
 tained. The e.xterior length of the structure is 13 m. 85 cm. ; breadth, 5 m. 
 1 cm. , height, exclusive of the roof-comb, 5 m. 60 cm. Three doorways lead 
 in to the interior, which is spanned by a severely rectilinear, wedge-shaped 
 vault, flattened at the top. On this account, it has a very different effect 
 from that of the neighboring temple just described. The height of the 
 chamber is 416 cm. ; breadth, 229 cm. ; total length, including the end 
 compartments, 1,113 cm. 
 
 Two pilasters of 50 cm. projection, which rise vertically up to the 
 vaulted ceiling, form a niche 145 cm. wide in the middle of the longitudinal 
 wall opposite the entrances. The interior of this temple is not interrupted 
 by buttresses, but adjoining the last lateral pillar of each of the side entrances 
 and extending far into the chamber, a wall rises in a straight line to the 
 ceiling, and together with the exterior wall, which is 136 cm. in thickness, 
 supports the weight of the roof-comb (Plate XLIV, 2). 
 
 The hall, thus cleared of all obstacles, was formerly very richly decorated 
 in color, including the entrances, the niche, and the surfaces of the vaulted 
 ceiling. Unfortunately the stucco, which afforded a smooth surface for the 
 painting, has mostly fallen off, but the remains display a magnificent design 
 made up of leaves, scroll-work, and flowers, interwoven here and there with 
 the forms of human beings and animals. Among the colors are dark red, 
 light red, dark blue, light blue, yellow, also dark brown, white, green, etc. 
 Green is not as freq.uent as blue. The total effect of the colors must have 
 been cheerful and agreeable. It is a great pity that so interesting an exam- 
 ple of Maya mural painting is only preserved in such small fragments that, 
 even with the most earnest desire to do so, it is c|uite impossible to reproduce 
 it in a compreliensible form. 
 
 Siela 11 (Plates XLIII, 1, LXXIV, LXXV). While the wood-cutters of 
 Encarnacion Carrillo were camping among these magnificent ruins, occasion- 
 ally also taking up their baleful abode in the beautifully colored chamber of 
 the central South Temple — about thirty years ago — they felled a gigantic 
 caobo tree, which must have stood close to the temple. Whether intention- 
 ally or not, they let the tree fall right across this 'grand nmnument of Maya 
 sculpture, by which means a corner was struck off and the entire stone forced 
 forward into a leaning position. Before very long the huge stone will 
 fall, and, striking the circular altar in front of it, will be sliattered into many 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 175 
 
 pieces. In order to comprehend the enormity of tlie vandalism perpetrated in 
 this case, it should be remembered that the Mexican government at that time 
 received on an average 50 centavos for the cutting down of a tree, and only 
 about 25 centavos for trees of an inferior quality, and that the wood-cutters 
 knew well how to include in their cargoes many a tree which had not been 
 marked, for which the Mexican state treasury received no equivalent. Tliis 
 magnificent moimment, then, was sacrificed for the miserable pittance of 50 
 centavos, or perhaps for nothing at all ! 
 
 Owing to the inclined position of the stela, it was extremely difficult to 
 photograph it. In order to avoid a distortion of the perspective, I slanted 
 the apparatus upward in photographing the human side, and downward for 
 the deity side. I set up the broken-off piece on one side, but not in the 
 correct vertical position, owing to the unfavoraWe fracture. The total ex- 
 terior height of the stela is exactly 4 m., to which must be added at least 
 80 cm. for the portion sunk into the ground. Breadth, 115 cm. ; thickness, 
 27 cm. 
 
 The Human Side (Plates LXXIV, 2, LXXV). The sculpture on this 
 side has for its base four horizontal rows of nine glyphs each, excepting the 
 top row, where the initial glyph occupies the space of two of the others, — 
 ■ hence, thirty-five glyphs in all. I took a special photograph of this group of 
 glyphs early in the morning, and the principal portion of the sculpture was 
 photographed about an hour later. 
 
 Upon the upper edge of the group of glyphs stand two warriors of proud 
 bearing, probably the chieftain first in command, or Ahau, with the second in 
 command, the Sihuacohuail, as the Mexicans would say. The two chieftains, 
 drawn in prbfile, are standing face to face in a strictly military pose, 
 carrying what seem to be quivers with bows and arrows. Both wear 
 buskins and leg-bands, crossed loin-cloths of thin material lying closely to the 
 form and partly concealed by the richly ornamented girdle. The second 
 chieftain holds his quiver with his right hand, on the wrist of wdiich the cuff 
 is visible, while both the cuffs of the first chieftain are invisible. A shield or 
 possibly a large cuff-medallion is on the left lower ai'm. Both chieftains 
 wear elaborate breast-capes of bead-work, each with three medallions, of 
 which only two can be seen, owing to the position of the wearers. The 
 Ahau has a second row of medallions under the upper one, and he further- 
 more wears on his back (as a guard ?), a large oval disc surrounded by 
 feathers, with a projection in the middle from which a tassel depends. 
 Both warriors wear tall helmets adorned with grotesque faces, scroll and 
 feather work. On the helmet of the Aliau the animal's head with a large eye 
 and projecting snout is especially distinct. Unoccupied spaces of the back- 
 ground are filled in witli glyplis : 4 + 8 -|- 9 = 21. 
 
 The finish at the top, now incomplete, owing to the fracture, was prob- 
 ably ornamented as follows : At the bottom four grotesque faces in profile 
 
176 
 
 RESEAKCHES IN THE USDMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 looking downward (two of them very distinct on my pliotograplr), and 1-est- 
 ing upon these, symbolical scroU-worlc. Then to tlie right and left an oval 
 containing a small figure sitting Turkish fashion (one of the ovals can be 
 recognized on the smaller fragment), and a large half-length picture between 
 the ovals. 
 
 The Deity Side (Plate LXXIV, 1). This side, which faces the temple, is 
 quite as interesting and as spirited in design as the human side. A circular 
 altar dedicated to the deity side stands above on the edge of the platform. 
 Upon this altar, where in past ages the heart of many a miserable victim may 
 have been torn out, 1 set up my harmless photographic apparatus (directly 
 upon the stone, without the tripod), giving it a decided forward incline. I 
 took the photograph a few moments after the sun had passed the zenith when 
 its rays fell almost perpendicularly upon the stone, lighting it at a very acute 
 angle and imparting to its usually colorless surface a truly wonderful anima- 
 tion. The photograph came out beautifully in spite of a slight distortion of 
 the perspective, which was quite unavoidable. The sculpture represented on 
 this side has no glyphic base. A soothsaying priest is here represented in an 
 attitude of zealous ecstasy, his body in front view and his face in profile, the 
 latter concealed hj the mysterious mask of a terror-inspiring god. With his 
 right hand he holds out toward the worshipping populace the augur's stone, 
 sastun, and with his left the small image of a god with a snouted face and a 
 raylike plume of feathers. The people, kneeling, with hands crossed over their 
 breasts, devoutly receive the utterances which proclaim good or ill fortune. 
 The populace is symbolically represented by three simply clad men kneeling 
 close together. The priest wears breeches of tiger skin, a St. Andrew's cross 
 girdle fringed with feathers, and a tiger's head or death-mask (?) in the 
 middle, buskins as usual on his feet, and cuffs on his wrists. A feather 
 mantle with a bead cape which covers the upper part of the body is hori- 
 zontally intersected by a breast-plate of handsome scroll-work with a St. 
 Andrew's cross in the central oval. The helmet is large and of handsome 
 design, and has another St. Andrew's cross in front, above which rises a 
 gigantic plume, the feathers of which curve backward and downward, and 
 wave about a close, comb-like border of feathers. 
 
 The upper part of the deity side is occupied by twenty large glyphic 
 squares arranged like steps. At the top, space was found among them for a 
 picture square, within which two personages, probably a man and a woman, 
 sit side by side in Turkish fashion, and are evidently engaged in very ani- 
 mated conversation. 
 
 This sculpture in low relief, which enlightens us with regard to the 
 religious procedures of a long-vanished epoch, is absolutely the only one of its 
 kind among my collection of photographs. 
 
 The narrow side-faces are also decorated, each with a row of large, fairly 
 well preserved glyphs. Generally speaking, there were no traces of color 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 177 
 
 remaining, only on the gronp of glyphs protected by debris I thought I 
 detected some remnants of red. 
 
 Stda 12 (Plate LXXVI. 1, 2). In the interior of the second South 
 Temple I found (1897) the lower vindecorated piece, which is let into the 
 ground, and the upper glyphic finish of a small stela. To judge by the 
 upper piece, more attention had been given to one side of the stela (presum- 
 ably the deity side) than had been to tlie other (presumably the human side). 
 Furthermore, investigation resulted in determining that this stela had never 
 been exposed to the rain, nor bad it, apparently, ever been painted. The 
 glyphs looked as if they liad but just been chiselled. I looked in ^ ain for 
 the middle piece. We again probably have cause to complain of the destruc- 
 tive work of vandals. It may be taken for granted that the figure on the 
 deity side must have been of striking excellence, and for that reason they 
 struck off the lower and upper portions in order to carry away the middle 
 piece with the figure alone. 
 
 The inscription of the deity side is perfectly preserved (Plate 1^XX\'I, 1). 
 It contains four vertical rows of six glyphs each ; that is, twenty-four glyplis 
 in all. Each character is carefully executed and rich in detail. The entire 
 inscription, exclusive of the border, is 59 cm. in height, 37 cm. in breadth, 
 while the complete breadth of the stone is 43 cm. Tlie fracture unfortu- 
 nately passes through the glyphs on the other side (Plate LXXVI, 2). Of 
 each of the four vertical rows, four and one-half characters are preserved, 
 — that is, sixteen perfect glyphs and the tops of four more. The glyphs 
 are less carefully executed, and of less projection. The narrow side-faces had 
 no glyphs. 
 
 Stela IS (Plate LXXII, 2). On my return in 1900 I once more searched 
 the terraces in front of South Temple II, and found on the second terrace 
 from the top, to the left of Stela 11, a small stela with a round altar before 
 it. It lay unbroken on the ground, covered by rubbish and vegetation. Total 
 height of stone, 245 cui., 72 cm. of which belong to the lower, plain portion. 
 Breadth, toward the top, 43 cm. ; thickness, 23} cm. 
 
 The deity side had turned upward in falling, and was entirely destroyed. 
 I was able to determine only that it was once ornamented by a figure in profile 
 in high relief, above which was a group of glyphs. The picture and inscrip- 
 tion on the human side, which had fallen earthward, were in much lower relief 
 and therefore diSicult to photograpli. • 
 
 A rather plainly dressed personage in profile holds a large staff in his 
 right hand. The head-dress seems to be decorated with designs from the 
 vegetahle kingdom. Above the head of this h'mcn (?) there is a handsome 
 feathered round flower (rayless star?) A group of 4 X 4 = 16 glyphs forms 
 the upper finish of the stela. The narrow side-faces had no glyphs. Tliere 
 are no remains of color. 
 
 Stela 14- On the right-hand side of Stela 11, 1 searched for the counter- 
 
 MEM. PBABODY MUSEDM II. — 2.3 
 
17S EESEARCIIES IN THE USUMATSINTLA. VALLEY. 
 
 part of Stola 13. I found tlie sought-for stela (No. 14), it is true, but fallen 
 down upon tlie lowest terrace, while the circular altar belonging to it had 
 remained above. This stela is broken at the top and at the bottom, and the 
 figure-work on the main portion is unfortunately destroyed on the upper as 
 well as on the under side. It is now only possible to recognize that one side has 
 a profile figure in high relief, and the other side a figure in lower relief. 
 
 The three stelfe, 12, 13, and 14 proved to be of the same breadth, or, 
 43 cm. Now the question arises whether Stela 14, broken at the top and at 
 the bottom, is not perhaps the missing middle part of Stela 12. In that case 
 it would be incomprehensible why the unornamented lower piece and the 
 upper portion with the glyphs, treated as worthless, should have been brought 
 into the temple ; also why the two pieces had apparently never been exposed 
 to the rain. 
 
 Structure 41. South Temple HI and Stelm 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, and W. 
 
 Of the three South Temples, this third one is the oldest, and therefore 
 the most completely ruined. It was unsafe, even in Maya times, as can be 
 inferred from the devices for strengthening the edifices at a later date than 
 its construction. The facade of the structure faced almost exactly northeast. 
 
 In spite of the advanced state of demolition, I believe I can prove that 
 the interior of the Third South Temple is similar to that of the First. It had, 
 accordingly, a large central chamber with three entrances on the facade side, 
 the transverse walls of which formed small lateral chambers on the right and 
 left. It seemed to nie that considerable reinforcements had been inserted in 
 the middle chamber. The three entrances had also been narrowed by added 
 supports to such a degree that the actual opening is only 50 cm. wide. It is 
 not possible to crawl far into the interior, which is almost entirely in ruins. 
 An enormous habin tree, the powerful roots of which had clutched the roof of 
 the little right-hand corner chamber, had recently been torn down by the 
 storm, and had carried with it, in its fall down the mountain side, the entire 
 vaulted top. By this means the lateral chamber had been opened from the 
 rear, and could be examined. 
 
 Of the treatment of the exterior, only the following can be determined 
 with certainty. The first element, the projecting base, forms an unorna- 
 mented bench all around, as is usual with these structures. The second 
 element comprises the wall surfaces, which are, generally speaking, entirely 
 smooth, but towards the top, close under the lower frieze-cornice, they are 
 ornamented by a broad band of glyphs which runs round the four sides. 
 The remains of some of the characters, beautifully executed in stucco, are 
 still visible here and there. It seems to have been white, for I could find no 
 trace of red color. 
 
 As to the third element, the frieze, its principal decoration, as shown by 
 the remains on the left wing of the structure, had consisted of richly-stuccoed 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 179 
 
 serpents' faces (with large eyes and elongated noses) like the ornamentation 
 on the Temple de la Ribera (No. 6). Both these temples seem to date from 
 the oldest epoch. 
 
 Of the fourth element, the roof-comb, which was perforated by openings, 
 only very slight vestiges remained upon the roof. 
 
 Convinced that the terraces of so important a structure could not be 
 without objects of interest, I subjected them to a very thorough search on my 
 return to these ruins in 1900. The result was the finding of two stelfe (15, 
 16), which, together with a third, must once have stood on the edge of the 
 upper platform, but they have now fallen down upon the second from the top. 
 The third stela (17) remained doubtful. Furthermore, three still larger stelce 
 (18, 19, 20) were found, which must have stood on the edge of the second 
 terrace from the top, but had fallen down upon the third. 
 
 As a matter of course, the circular altars belonging to the stelaj were also 
 found, but the sculpture upon them was in every case entirely worn away 
 by the action of the elements. The furtlier results of my search were two 
 stone burial urns which had been thrown down the side of the mountain by 
 mischievous persons. A large stalactite column was also found. 
 
 Siela IS (Plate LXXIX, 1). This stela stood formerly on the left wing of 
 the upper platform. It has sculpture on only one of the broad faces. In its 
 fall upon the next terrace below, the stone broke in two near the base-line of 
 the picture, but the sculpture fell face downward and was very well preserved, 
 excepting one piece, which had broken off and could not be found. This 
 missing piece contained the lower part of the body of the crouching pris- 
 oner of war. There are no glyphs on the narrow side-faces. Total height 
 of the stone, 185 cm. Height from the base-line to the upper edge of the 
 stela, 133 cm. Breadth of stone (sculpture, including border), 68 cm. 
 Thickness, 16 cm. 
 
 A warrior in profile, standing upright and not overloaded with orna- 
 ments, holds a flint-tipped lance in liis left hand, while with his right he 
 holds by the hair a captive crouching before him. I would call special atten- 
 tion to the ornamental pendant which hangs from his left wrist, and which 
 probably came into play in using the lance. 
 
 What is especially striking in this flat relief is the tendency to execute 
 the eyes with a greater degree of perfection, the eyes, as is well known, being 
 the weak point in Yaxchilan sculpture. The (visible) eye of the prisoner 
 certainly shows a treatment deviating from that of all other figures of 
 Yiixchflan, and is indicative of great progress in the sculptor's art. Above 
 the crouching person there are 5+10 glyphs, and at the back of the prin- 
 cipal person there are three; that is, eighteen in all. All traces of color 
 have vanished. The projection of the relief is very slight, only \ cm., not- 
 withstanding which, the photograph came out very well. 
 
 Slela 16. This stela likewise stood on the edge of the upper terrace, but 
 
180 
 
 EESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 in the centre of it. In falling npon the terrace below, the stone broke in the 
 middle. The sculptnre on the human side fell face downward. It is some- 
 what injured, but still fairly distinct. The sculpture of the deity side lay 
 .skyward, and therefore, in spite of its great projection, it was wholly 
 destroyed. The two narrow side-faces had no glyphs. Height of stone, 195 
 cm. ; height of sculpture on the human side, 98 cm. The sculpture on the 
 deity side extended sourewhat further downward. Breadth of stone (sculpture, 
 including border), 76 cm. Thickness, 31| cm. 
 
 Human Side : The Halachvinic (halatswinik), hung about with heads, who 
 is represented here, bears a striking resemblance to the one represented on 
 the undersculpture of Lintel 9 (Plate LIII), for which reason it is not neces- 
 sary to describe all the details of his dress. Particularly his breast-cape, 
 breast-plate, and large medallion are quite like those of the lintel sculpture. 
 In his right liand he also holds what I take to be a quiver with bow and 
 arrows. In the long chain of human heads, reaching from his neck to his 
 buskins, a head alternates with an oval link ; the lowest oval is formed into 
 a half-length picture with arms crossed over the breast, like the one on 
 Lintel 9. The helmet of the Halachvinic on the stela is very different in 
 form from that of the figure on the lintel, and is difficult to describe. The 
 entire figure is surrounded hy a great radiated design of feathers. Above 
 on the background, I find G -f 2 = 8 glyphs. No colors I'eniain. 
 
 Stela 17- The regularity of the entire plan of construction, and of the 
 distribution of the stels, also the finding of the com])anion round altar, led 
 to the supposition that a stela must also liave stood on the edge of the right 
 wing of the upper terrace (the temple platform). That corner, however, had 
 fallen into great confusion, and the mass of stones had slipped down, so that 
 in spite of all our search the sought-for stela could not be found above or 
 below. I shall therefore reserve for it the No. 17. 
 
 While I was searching the northeastern slope of the mountain, I found, 
 near the bottom, a small stela broken in two, which could not possibly have 
 stood where it was found, but had evidently been dragged thither from one 
 of the higher terraces of South Temple II or III. 
 
 The rather boldly executed low relief, which lay turned upward, was 
 quite destroyed ; of the much weaker low relief of the side turned earthward, 
 only the faint outline of a male figure could still be recognized, and I did not 
 think it possible to photograph it. The question arose whether this stela, 
 lying so far down the .slope of the mountain, could be the sought-for No. 17, 
 or whether, since it also measured 42-4.3 cm. in breadth, it might not be the 
 missing middle portion of No. 12. We ndght, in the meantime, call this 
 stela on the mountain side, No. 17 B. 
 
 Stela 18. On the edge of the left wing of the second terrace from the 
 top there formerly stood a large stela, wdiich in falling down upon the lowest 
 terrace broke into four pieces, the top one flying out beyond the terrace and 
 
YAXCHILAN. 181 
 
 landing on the mountain side. I calculated the total height of the stone at 
 377 cm., 107 cm. of which are the lowest unornamented portion. Breadth, 
 toward the top, 95-08 cm., and somewhat less toward the bottom ; 
 thickness, 24 cm. 
 
 The Deity Side, which formerly faced the temple, had turned upward in 
 falling, and in spite of its strong projection was quite washed away. It is 
 with great difficulty that a large upright figure in profile can be recognized. 
 There was no subordinate figure, but all the spaces of the background were 
 filled out with glyphs. The upper finish of the deity side was formed by two 
 ovals, each containing a small human figure. 
 
 The Human Side (Plate LXXVII, 1). The sculpture of the human 
 side, which had lain face downward, was in a superb state of preser- 
 vation. It exhibits the commanding figure of a warrior in front view, all but 
 the face, with a tall lance in his right hand and an ornamental pouch in his 
 left. He wears a jacket ornamented with round flowers and richly fringed 
 below, partially covered by the great scarf of shells which hangs far down 
 from the neck. The moderately large helmet of scroll-work terminates in • 
 graceful plumes of feathers. A prisoner whose arms are bound to his back, 
 kneels before the warrior in a .supplicating attitude. Above the face of the 
 kneeling captive there are three glyphs ; along the whole length of the lance 
 there are seven more in a vertical row. The upper finish of the stela is 
 formed by six horizontal rows of five glyphs each, — a total of forty glyphs. 
 The colors have disappeared. The somewhat swelling side-faces have no 
 actual sculpture. There are, however, some traces visible of the outlines of 
 an incised human figure. 
 
 Stela 19. This enormous stela formerly stood on the edge of the second 
 terrace from the top, halfway between SteliB 18 and 20. When the weighty 
 stone fell down upon the third terrace from the top it broke into so many 
 pieces that I did not take the trouble to count them. The human side of this 
 stone — as always, facing the city and the populace — had fallen face down- 
 ward, as so frequently is the case ; while the deity side, turned upward, was 
 the most injured. The total height of the stone must have been more than 
 four metres, and the lower unornamented portion, most of which was let into 
 the terrace, is unusually long. Central breadth, 144 cm. Thickness, 25 cm. 
 The narrow side-faces had no ^vork in low relief of any kind, but show 
 traces of inferior incised work. 
 
 On the badly weathered deity side one can recognize with difficulty a 
 figure standing upright. At its feet there are some remains of sculpture, 
 with regard to which it can no longer be determined whether they are part of 
 a crouching personage oi' of some other object. But above this uncertain out- 
 line, two vertical rows, of seven large glyphs each, are plainly visible running 
 along the edge of that side and reaching up close to the plume of feathers 
 which falls forward from the head of the god (?). The deity side has, as a 
 
182 
 
 EESEAECHES IN TIIK USUIIATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 finish to the top, two ovals containing little human figures, with a half- 
 length picture between them, as it seemed to me. 
 
 The Human Side (Plate LXXVII, 2). Fitting together the stones of the 
 human side (that is, the cut-out pieces of the celluloid negatives) as well as I 
 could, I succeeded in obtaining a picture which gives a fairly good idea of the 
 representation. A tall warrior in profile holds with both hands a serrated 
 lance.* His girdle (or it may be the lower border of his jacket) is ornamented 
 with sea-shells. The indistinct, intertwined helmet has superabundant orna- 
 mentation of feathers on the top and far down the back. At the feet of the 
 warrior kneels a captive with upper arms bound, who looks up supplicatingly. 
 The upper fini.sh of the human side is formed by two horizontal rows of five 
 large glyphs each. Adjoining these, running along the edge toward the 
 prisoner, is a vertical row of nine or ten glyphs, a total of about twenty 
 glyphs. There are no traces of color. 
 
 Stela W. This giant stela stood on the edge of the right wing of the 
 second terrace from the top. In falling down upon the third terrace from 
 • the top (that is, the first terrace) the stone broke into two large and heavy 
 pieces. These we turned over with great difficulty on to one of their narrow 
 side faces, l3y means of the iron winch which we had brought with us, in 
 order to photograph at least the human side, which was best preserved. 
 Total height of stone, 356 cm., 86 cm. of which (measured on the human side) 
 are the lower plain portion. Breadth (measured in the middle). 141 cm. 
 The stone diminishes somewhat in size towards the bottom, and finishes at 
 the top in a pointed arch. Thickness, 27 cm. The narrow side-faces have 
 no sculpture whatever. 
 
 Unfortunately, the deity side, formerly facing the temple, had fallen 
 face upward, and was very much injured. However, it can be deter- 
 mined that the subject of the representation is the beneficent god with the 
 chest of good fortune before him on the ground, and beside it a supplicant for 
 benefits. Above the latter personage, the background is filled in with ver- 
 tical rows of hieroglyphs. The upper finish of the deity side is so blurred it 
 is impossible to make anything out of it. 
 
 The Human Side (Plate LXXVIII). A warrior in an upright position — 
 his body in front view, his face in profile — holds a large lance in his right 
 hand, and an ornamental pouch in his left. He also is dressed in a jacket 
 with round flowers and sea-shell border, and wears about his neck a scarf of 
 shell-work, which falls to the knees. The head is adorned with a tiger's 
 head helmet, which has a high, waving plume of feathers at the back. 
 Before this warrior kneels a man with crossed arms and a tiger-skin man- 
 tle. His face is very much injured, but on the photograph his eye, turned 
 toward the spectator, can be detected near the lance. Above the head of 
 
 * Lances o£ this character seem to represent the saw of the saw-fish put on the end of the sliaft. 
 There are plenty of saw-lishes in the Laguna del Carmen. 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 183 
 
 the tiger-man is a pleasing human head, with a comb-like ornament of 
 feathers at the back. 
 
 It is doubtful whether the second figure is a prisoner of war, since it 
 cannot be ascertained whether his arms are bound or not. It is possibly a 
 warrior of the order of the Ocdotl, paying homage to his chieftain, who, to 
 judge from his helmet, belongs to the same order. 
 
 Along the lance runs a vertical row of seven large glyphs. The space 
 above, in the angle of the pointed arch, is filled out with two horizontal rows 
 of four glyphs each, making a total of fifteen glyphs. The colors have 
 disappeared. 
 
 It is proljable that the great stalactite column which I found lying near 
 by on the mountain slope, wedged in among trees, must have stood on the 
 first (or the lowest) terrace of South Temple III. It is 280 cm. long, and 
 is oval in cross-section. As far as I was able to 
 examine it, it had no rows of glyphs. 
 
 Somewhere on these terraces must have stood 
 the two stone burial urns, which wood-cutters had 
 pi-obably flung down the mountain side in fun. 
 The one {Fig. 62) left lying on the slope is 65 cm. 
 in height, and has the large face of a death's-head 
 in front. It is hollowed out within. I was una- 
 ble to find the circular cover belonging to it. My 
 men and I descended the slope side by side, so 
 that nothing should escape us, carefully searching 
 all the terraces, quarries, etc., and we finally found 
 at the bottom of the narrow valley a second burial 
 urn, also cylindrical in form and deeply hollowed out. This urn was orna- 
 mented with a band of glyphs running round the upper edge. The height 
 is 50 cm.; the diameter of the cylinder, 44J cm. The cover of this urn 
 likewi.se could not be found. 
 
 V. The Lesser Acropolis. 
 
 A long, saddle-like formation, closely strewn with ruins of small struc- 
 tures, separates the mountain ridge of the Great Acropolis from the terraced 
 summit which is crowned by the Lesser Acropolis. In order most easily to 
 reach the latter, it is advisable to begin ascending the mountain side at the 
 right flank of the Labyrinth. By doing so, one meets with six terraces of 
 which the third and fifth (or the one before the last) are the broadest. The 
 terraces form elevated causeways around the side of the mountain. The 
 ascent generally ends at a half-ruined temple, the facade of which faces east. 
 With this (Structure 42) I shall begin the description of the Lesser Acrop- 
 
184 < RESEARCHES IX THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 olis, which I will preface by the remark that we have to do here with the 
 I'll ins of exactly eleven structures, most of which must have had a certain 
 importance, and some of which are situated on the edge of the plateau. 
 
 Stnidure JfS. The Temple of Scidjiiured Lmteh Jj-i, 43, and 43- The 
 platform which is. crowned by this temple is forty-five metres higher than 
 that of the Labyrinth, or about fifty-two metres higher than the general 
 level of the monumental curved embankment. The facade of the temple 
 appjroximately faces east. It may be stated here once for all that Temples 
 42, 44, and 20 have an identical ground-plan, with a few slight deviations. 
 
 The interior space of the temple is interrupted twice, at about the 
 middle, by two buttresses built against the (second) longitudinal wall, while 
 two other transverse walls push forward from the first longitudinal wall, each 
 forming a small lateral chamber at either end of the principal apartment. 
 The four transverse buttresses all aid in bearing the burden of the roof-comb. 
 
 In spite of the advanced state of demolition of this structure, I was able 
 to draw the plan of it (Fig. 63), where I have shown that, in spite of the 
 
 Fig. 63. — Structure 42; Sectio.n a.xd Gkou.ni>-pl.\n (restored). 
 
 intersection of the four transverse buttresses, a handsomely arched vault 
 covers the entire interior space. The three entrances in the east facade are 
 (or were !) spanned by large liutel-stones, each having the most delicate low 
 relief on the under side. 
 
 As far as the fine stuccoing still remains on the lateral surfaces of the 
 doorways, it can be seen plainly that the latter are ornamented with an in- 
 volved pattern of red bands, and also with red and blue scroll-work, which leads 
 to the presumption that the whole interior of the temple was covered with 
 color. The exterior length of this edifice 1 have calculated to be 14 m. 45 cm. 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 185 
 
 Lintel Jfl, sculpiured on the under side. This lintel-stone was torn from 
 its supports and its sculpture sawed smoothly off. 
 
 Lintel scidptured on the under side (Plate LXVI). This beautiful 
 lintel sculpture — one of the finest in Yaxchilan — escaped the saw, it is 
 true, but not the fire. On the outer edge where the flames burst out, it is all 
 calcined and has scaled off ; otherwise — excepting a few little places — this 
 flat relief is splendidly preserved ; only the colors have disappeared. 
 
 The whole length of the stone is about 161 cm. The span of the door- 
 way, or height of sculpture, including border, is 12-5 cm.; l^readth of stone, or 
 breadth of sculpture, including border, is 98 cm. (The reinforced wall, how- 
 ever, is 140 cm. thick.) Thickness of stone, 31 cm. 
 
 An Ahaucau, very richly adorned, holds in his right hand a little idol 
 towards a second personage of rank, who on his part presents a round object 
 and a kind of sceptre (?). The action takes place over an altar formed of 
 glyphs. The Ahaucan is in front view, excepting his face; the other per- 
 sonage of rank is represented in profile. The high priest wears buskins, leg- 
 bands, and cuffs. He has on a very richly ornamented jacket, which has 
 three medallions on the collar, below them a narrow breast-plate, and below 
 the latter a large medallion with a mask in the centre, the forehead of which 
 is concealed by an oval. The lower border of the jacket is very richly 
 treated and also the bow in front, wdiich is ornamented with rayless stars. 
 The head is surmounted by a tall priest's hat, which in this instance has ver- 
 tical stripes and feathers waving backward from the top. 
 
 The second personage, also handsomely adorned, wears a loin-cloth of 
 thin material. On the upper part of the body he wears no jacket, but what 
 might be called a breast-cape garment ornamented with three medallions, one 
 of which natm-ally remains invisible. The central medallion is strikingly 
 large and has a fine head in profile. This personage wears the tall priest's 
 hat, ribbed horizontally, with projections and feathers on the top and at the 
 back. The leg by which the little idol is held ends, as usual, in a little 
 sei-pent stretching forward. 
 
 There are four glyphs behind the Ahaucan, whicli also serve as a sup- 
 porting cohunn upon which his left hand lies, eight glyplw forming the altar, 
 seven glyphs above the little idol, three of which are slightly calcined, and 
 the lower ends of a calcined row of glyphs, at the bottom, near the extreme 
 edge of the facade. 
 
 I photographed this very low relief at night, with magnesium light. 
 The broad roots of a ramon tree, wdiich grows on top of the ruins, are fas- 
 tened around this stone. Though I cut away a part of the roots in order to 
 be able to photograph the sculpture, it is to be feared that it will be dragged 
 over the mountain side if a .storm should blow down the tree. 
 
 Lintel 43, sexdptured on the under side (Plate LXVII). Width of door- 
 way or lieight of sculpture, including border, 120 era. Breadth of stone, or 
 breadth of sculpture, including border, 95 cm. 
 
 MEM, PEAHODV MUSEUM 11. — 24 
 
186 RESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 The stone was broken in two. The main portion lay wedged in the 
 doorway ; the smaller piece still remained above, resting upon its supports. 
 Owing to the unnatural position oi the larger piece, it was clear that some 
 one had attempted to drag it out, and taking advantage of the easy cleavage 
 of the stone had split off a thin layer upon which was the face of the female 
 figure which has disappeared. As I had very skilful men with me, we suc- 
 ceeded in pushing out the stone sufficiently far to finish extricating it by 
 means of levers and the winch. After we had set it up on the platform and 
 fitted the smaller piece to it, I succeeded in getting a very good photograph 
 in sunlight, which plainly shows what still remains. It ajjpeared later that 
 the sculpture of tliis Lintel 43 had a great many points of agreement with 
 that of Lintel 6 ( Plate L), and should therefore be compared with it. 
 
 The principal personage is represented in front view with the face in 
 profile, and holds in his right hand a cone-shaped standard of plaited work, 
 upon the flattened top of which sits a little idol. In his left hand he holds 
 what may be an oval stone. In front of this priest (?) stands a woman of 
 rank, entirely in profile, whose long garment displays a very tasteful reticu- 
 lated pattern. She holds toward the priest (?) a large dish containing a ser- 
 pentine object (entrails of a sacrificed animal ?). 
 
 The standard-bearer wears large, handsomely worked buskins and leg- 
 bands, the latter with little medallions in front. The cuffs also have heads ; 
 what seems to be a bird's head is attached to the right-hand cuff, and a fan- 
 tastic human profile to the left. Instead of a loin-cloth, he seems in this 
 instance to wear short breeches, the lower edges of whicli are visible on the 
 upper part of the thigh. A St. Andrew's cross girdle encircles the hips, to 
 the centre of which is attached a large death-mask, from which large bows • 
 and ends fall down to the knees. The breast-cape is almost covered by three 
 great medallions, the central one of which exhibits a mammal with spotted 
 skin. Below the medallion is the long, narrow breast-plate. The head-dress 
 is bound together in a peculiar manner, with an appendage at the back from 
 which the feathers of the comb-like ornament fall backward. On the back- 
 ground I find i + 2 + & glyphs, the latter partly battered off. Of the former 
 colors, only traces of red are visible on the glyphs and on some of the 
 ornaments. 
 
 Structure J0. Advancing at an obtuse angle from the left flank of 
 Structure 42, one comes to a row of four structures (4-3, 44, 45, 46). the 
 fa9ades of which face northeast. Structure 43 is now only a high and long 
 heap of stones overgrown with trees, and showing no 'traces of architectural 
 design. It is evident that this mass of ruins was once a structure similar in 
 plan to the one just described, having also three entrances in front. Consid- 
 ering it advisable to find out whether the lintel-stones were ornamented with 
 sculpture or not. I made an excavation in the centre of the front, but far in 
 
YAXCHILAN. 187 
 
 advance of the line of tlie former fa9ade. We did indeed find a hirge stone, 
 which we regarded as tlie souglit-for lintel. Unfortunately, the under side 
 was without sculpture. We therefore devoted our attention to the following 
 structure. 
 
 Siructure 44. The Templn of the Calcined Sculptured Lintels 44, 45, 
 40. and loilh the Sacrificial Stone on the edge of the jilntform before the central 
 drm-miij. As the ground-plan of this structure is like that of 42, it is 
 scarcely necessary to describe it specially. I calculated its exterior length 
 at VI ni. 96 cm. 
 
 As the doorways of this temple also show a pattern of red bands and 
 scroll-work on white stuccoed ground, it may be presumed that the interior 
 was likewise decorated with painting. 
 
 The fa(;ade faces the northeast, and to its surfaces still cling remnants 
 of the frieze, which prove that the style of its ornamentation was similar to 
 that of the frieze of tlie Labyrinth. 
 
 The roof-comli has entirely fallen down, and the mass of debris covers 
 the temple to half the height of tlie doorways. 
 
 Lintel 44, scidptured on the under side. Tliis large lintel-stone has 
 cracked into several pieces, probably owing to the uneven pressure weiglung 
 upon it since the falling down of the structure. Length, 182 cm. ; breadth, 
 100 cm.; thickness, 28 cm. 
 
 The low relief which covers the entire span of 109 cm. is wholly calcined 
 and has scaled off, but the pieces that fell down nuist have been carried away, 
 for they do not lie in the doorway. From the remnants still over the entrance 
 it is safe to conclude that the representation was similar to that of Lintels 45 
 and 46. At the feet of a principal personage crouches, in the attitude of a 
 supplicant, another personage more simply dressed, and behind the principal 
 personage a (double ?) row of glyphs runs the whole length of the border. 
 
 Lintel 45, sculptured on Ihe under side. Length of stone, 160 cm.; 
 distance between the jambs, height of picture, including border, is 102 cm. ; 
 breadth of stone, breadth of sculpture, including border, 105 cm.; thickness 
 of stone, 2.3 cm. This stone is also cracked, and it is calcined along the 
 longitudinal edges where the flames burst forth. The main portions of the 
 picture are preserved. 
 
 A sacrificial priest (?), represented in profile, liolds in his raised left iiand 
 a large sacrificial knife, together with a large pendent ornament set with 
 feathers. With his right hand he reaches out toward the head of the crouch- 
 ing supplicant, who on his part grasps the pendant with his right hand, and 
 with his left the tassel of the scarf of shells. 
 
 The sacrificial priest is almost nude. Besides shoes, leg-bands, and cuffs, 
 he wears only a waist-band and the large scarf of shell-work hung around 
 his neck and falling down in front. The head-dreSs, resting on rayless stars, 
 
188 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE USIIMATSINTLA VALLEY, 
 
 Fig. 04. — A 
 Group ov Glyi'Us 
 
 O.X LiNTKL 45. 
 
 is not of exaggerated size, and linislies in a waving plume of feathers. The 
 priest seems to have a large death's-head (?) attached to the lower part of his 
 back. Behind the principal figure there is a vertical row 
 (TnCQ of seven large glyphs, the lowest being entirely calcined. 
 tUjuJ The glyphs above the crouching personage are almost wholly 
 calcined. Besides these, there are five delicately incised, well- 
 preserved small glyphs on the background (Fig. 64). Remains 
 of dark-red color are visible only on the background. 
 
 Lintel Jfi, sculptured on tlie under side (Plate LXVIII). 
 Length of stone, 152 cm. ; distance between the jambs, height 
 of sculpture, including border, 109 cm. ; breadth of stone, 
 breadth of sculpture, including border, 109 cm. ; thickness 
 of stone, 23 cm. The stone is cracked into many pieces, 
 owing to mieven pressure, but the pieces still hang together 
 in their places. Almost the entire sculpture is scaled off 
 and totally destroyed, owing to calcination. Along the 
 whole edge of the faQade — where the flames burst forth 
 most violently — everything has scaled off. The crouching 
 figure has totally vanished. Both hands, as well as the 
 entire face and the head-dress of the principal personage, 
 together with other portions, are wholly destroyed. Never- 
 theless, 1 photographed this lintel at night witli magnesium 
 liglit. The result naturally shows 
 but little of the figures formerly 
 sculptured upon it, hwt calls atten- 
 tion all the more to the vandalism 
 here perpetrated. 
 
 The principal personage extends 
 his right hand toward the head of a 
 figure crouching on the grovuid ; in 
 his left hand he holds some pendent 
 object. I can speak here neitlier of 
 a sash nor a girdle ; it seems to me 
 rather that the priest has on a kind 
 of jacket of thin material, the sea- 
 shell border of which can be dis- 
 tinctly seen, as can also the large 
 scarf of shells hanging from the 
 neck. Cuffs, leg-bands, and buskins 
 are not absent. On each heel-guard 
 there is a little Maltese cross *. 
 
 Behind the priest rises a double row of large glyphs, the lowest ones 
 of wliich are calcined ; hence only 9 + 9 + .3 are in relief. Of the glyphs 
 
 -OxK or tup: Ixscr.ii'TiONS ox 
 Lintp:l 40. 
 
YAXCHILA^f. 
 
 189 
 
 above the crouching figure, only three are stiU intact; the others are calcined. 
 Furthermore, on the background, meeting at a right angle, there are six very 
 delicately executed miniature glyphs, which have escaped calcination (Fig. 65). 
 The colors have disappeared in consequence of the fire. 
 
 The three pieces of sculpture last described are spirited in execution, and 
 have a projection of about 2 cm. — very much greater than that of sculptured 
 Lintel 42, for instance. The glyphs too are of especially fine workmanship. 
 They seem, accordingly, to date from the best period of Maya art. 
 
 When moulds are to be made of these undersculptures after the 
 method of Lottin de Lavalle, layers of wet paper are clapped against them, 
 which are then pressed up and kept in place by a framework of sticks. It 
 then becomes necessary, it is true, to kindle a slow fire underneath in the 
 doorway, in order to dry the wet mould, wbi-ch is as thick as a finger. The 
 heat of the fire — which must never be excessive, as the framework and the 
 mould itself would burn up — does not in the least injure the sculpture, 
 which is besides protected by the thick mass of wet paper. When, after 
 firing gently for about half a day, the dry paper mould is to be removed, it 
 becomes necessary for the sake of one's own convenience to push aside tbe 
 fire or to extinguish it. Only then is it possible caref\dly to remove the 
 framework and detach the paper mould. I can imagine only two ways in 
 which these beautiful sculptures could have been so abominably calcined. In 
 all four instances (42, 44, 45, 46) the men either made too great a fire, which 
 they left unwatched and returned to find the supports and the paper moulds 
 were alike burned and the sculpture calcined, or, after the finished mould had 
 been removed, the workmen must have flung the unused fuel upon the 
 embers, and consequently calcined the sculptures. For my part, I make an 
 energetic protest against such vandalism. 
 
 The Sacrificial Stone on the edge nf the platform of Temple 44 (Plate 
 LXXIX, 2). The platform (or upper terrace) upon which the temple stands, 
 forms an esplanade about four metres in width, in front of the faQade. From 
 this there is a long descent, partly by means of high steps, partly by means 
 of stairways, to a large terrace, which I call the second from the top. Inves- 
 tigating this descent, I discovered on the edge of the platform, just before 
 the central doorway of the temple (Fig. 66), a large stone, the front face of 
 which was ornamented horizontally with eight great glyphic characters, each 
 composed of four smaller glyphs. This face of the stone was badly weathered, 
 and most of the glyphs had become indistinct. I naturally regarded this 
 stone as a lintel belonging to a lower projecting story, and I felt of its 
 under surface as well as I could to find out whether it was sculptured or 
 not, and in ,so doing discovered that this stone had not spanned an entrance, 
 but that it was a part of the masonry of the terrace. While I was drawing 
 the plan of the temple it became clear to me that this stone must lie on the 
 floor of the platform, now deeply buried in debris, and that therefore there 
 
190 
 
 KESEAKCHES IX THE USUIIATSIXTLA VALLEY. 
 
 could be no question of a projecting lower story. I now thouglit it might 
 be a fallen stela, and I began to examine the upper surface of the mj sterious 
 stone. After some of the debris had been cleared away, the beginnings of 
 a magnificent low relief made tlieir appearance. But then I found that the 
 horizontal arrangement of the glyphs on the front face excluded the possibil- 
 ity that the stone had ever stood in a vertical position. Now it became clear 
 to me that I liad before me a sacrificial stone, which had been laid upon the 
 platform. Tlie reader will, I am sure, tiiink it quite natural that I did not 
 come to this conclusion at once, if he takes into consideration the fact tluit 
 this is the only sacrificial slab of its kind whicli has ever been found in 
 Yaxcliilan. 
 
 After clearing away the rubbish, which had been piled up high over the 
 stone for centuries, and had mercifully protected it from the rain and the 
 
 Fig. 68.— STiiVCTfHE 44: Sectio.v and Grovnd-flax (restoeed). 
 
 mischief of man, we succeeded in setting it up on one of its narrow side- 
 faces, and in taking an excellent photograph of its upper surface. Length 
 of stone, 198 cm.; breadth, 75 cm. ; thickness, 30 cm. 
 
 The low relief of the skyward face has a base of symbolical, grotesque 
 faces and scroll-work. In the middle of the ornamental base is a large oval 
 containing the expressive profile face of a god. A grotesque animal's face 
 with great open jaws adjoins one side of the oval, and a scroll the other ; 
 below tlie oval, there is another large profile head of glyphic significance, 
 with a second head attached to the forehead, and quite in the corner of the 
 same side is a little oval containing a mammal, while, placed obliquely, in 
 the other corner is another grotesque face. 
 
 Above the ornamental base kneels a man of high rank who, to judge 
 by his bound arms, is destined (perhaps voluntarily) to be sacrificed. If he 
 is an enemy he is receiving a certain amount of honorable deference, since 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 191 
 
 he holds in his riglit hand a handsome round fan of feather-worlc, and 
 besides has not been deprived of his head-dress adorned with feathers. The 
 bow of his sash falls down in front, and upon it are incised two glyphs. 
 This figure is represented in front view, excepting the face. Above this 
 victim intended for sacrifice rise two rows of five glyphs each, above which 
 is the initial glyph occupying a space equal to that of two of the others. 
 This inscription forms one half of the surface of the sculpture above the 
 ornamental base, while the other half is filled out by two rows of thirteen 
 glyphs each, — a total of thirty-seven large glyphs. 
 
 Under the protecting rubbish the sculpture was so well preserved that 
 the nicest details of the glyphs are still perfectly distinct, and my photo- 
 graph can be made available for purposes of deciphering. As already stated, 
 nothing like this has been found on any of the other temple terraces. 
 
 The subjects represented on the three lintels indicate that this temple 
 (No. 44) was used chiefly for sacrificial purposes. Which god it was to whom 
 sacrifices were here made, might possibly be disclosed by the half-length 
 picture in the oval described above. 
 
 Stmdure JfS. This structure is separated from the 44th liy a narrow 
 passage one metre in width. It consists of a rather long vestibule with a 
 single entrance and a very narrow apartment of the same length, with an 
 entrance from the vestibule. The vestibule is half fallen down, but the 
 steep triangular vaulting of the rear apartment is still well preserved. The 
 large lintel of the front entrance has, unfortunately, no design. 
 
 Stnidure 46. A few metres from the left flank of Structure 45 and on 
 a lower level stands Structure 46. This is of considerable size and its facade 
 likewise faces northeast. Three doorways in the facade open into the front 
 apartment and a doorway in the middle wall leads to the rear apartment. 
 The lintels of this structure also are unsculptured. 
 
 Sfnichire Jff. From the platform of Structure 46 a stairway leads down 
 to that large general terrace, which I call the second from the top. From 
 here the populace probably witnessed the rites performed upon the platform 
 of Temple 44. This terrace is crossed, at a right angle to the left wing of 
 Structure 46, by a small, now" ruined edifice (No. 47) which must naturally 
 have faced southeast. 
 
 Structures 4S and 40. Now turning back behind Structures 46 and 45 
 we arrive at a little platform upon which are two structures now converted 
 into two heaps of stones. One of them, No. 48, is placed transversely to No. 
 46 ; the other. No. 49, runs parallel with 45. Leaving this smaller plateau 
 and mounting a few metres higher, we reach the larger plateau, which is 
 
192 
 
 EESEAliCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 surrounded on all sides by structures toward which Structures 44, 43, and 42 
 turn their backs. 
 
 Structure 50. The northwest side of the plateau is occupied by the 
 heap o£ ruins, No. 50. 
 
 Structure 31. This large structure occupies the southwest side of the 
 plateau. This construction, facing nortli-northeast, belongs to the category 
 of those massive terraces which I have described under 4, 5, and 8. A broad 
 stairway leads to a first terrace or platform. Above this rises a second, the 
 actual upper terrace, upon which probably stood three lesser constructions 
 (templates ?) which have now fallen. 
 
 Stntcture 52. This wholly ruined structure on the southeast side of the 
 plaieau formed the connecting link witli Structure 42 with which this de- 
 scription was begun. 
 
 Wliile from the platform of Structure 51 there is a very good view in 
 the direction of the neighboring southwestern mountains, Temples 42 and 
 44 afford a magnificent survey of the endless mountain chains which cross 
 and re-cross the wilderness between Yilxchilan and Peten-Itza. The river 
 below is naturally invisible. It follows from my description tliat with the 
 striving for architectural effects, strategical requirements were also taken 
 into consideration in the plan of the city. Thus the Lesser Acropolis formed 
 for those times an impregnable citadel. I believe that the city, defended by 
 inhabitants so well versed in the arts of war, was never conquered by an 
 enemy during the long period of its exi.stence. 
 
 It seems scarcely necessary to give an abbreviated list of the principal 
 structures, since most of them can be easily remenibei-ed by their simplified 
 names, such as "Labyrinth," "Red Shore Temple," "Bird Temple," 
 " Temple of Ketsalkoatl," " South Temples, I, II, III," etc. In addition 
 to the principal structures, tliere are countless smaller ruins and foundation 
 walls. It also seems snperflnous to place in a special list the circular altars 
 which were formerly covered with interesting inscriptions and sculptures, 
 numbering many more than a hundred, since they have now lost all interest, 
 owing to the action of the elements. 
 
 However, a list of the steliB and lintels, giving a review of the whole, 
 may be deemed advisable by some of my readers, especially as it has been 
 quite impossible to give numbers to the sculptures corresponding with eacli 
 other or with those of the structures. 
 
YAXCHILAN. 
 
 193 
 
 LIST OF THE STELiE OF YAXCHILAN, EXAMINED 1897-1900. 
 
 STEL.E BELONGING TO THE ARCHITECTURAL UOJIPLEX OF THE TEMPLE 
 OF KETSALKOATL. (STRUCTURE 33.) 
 
 Stda 1 (Plate LXIX). Human side destroyed. Deity side : peculiar ornamental 
 base j above it, the beneficent god with chest of good fortune and rope of honey ; a sup- 
 plicant. Upper finish : two orals with human figures ; a half-length figure ; eight heads 
 in profile ; 33 glyphs + 3 incised ones preserved. 
 
 Stela 2 (Plate LXXII, 1). Deity side destroyed. Huinaii side: the armless warrior. 
 The glyph of the base and eight additional glyphs. 
 
 STELAE BELONGING TO THE TEMPLE OF THE BIRD SACRIFICE. 
 (STRUCTURE 2(1.) 
 
 Stela S. Human side destroyed. Deity side : the beneficent god with chest of good 
 fortune and honey rope ; a man and woman supplicating ; upper part shattered ; seven 
 glyphs. 
 
 Stela i (Plate LXX). Human side destroyed. Deity side : symbolical base with the 
 sign of the sawfish ; beneficent god with chest of good fortune and honey rope ; a mala 
 and female supplicant ; nfiddle portion destroyed ; magnificent finish ; two small ovals 
 with human figures, a half-length figure, eight profiles ; seven well-preserved glyphs on 
 background. 
 
 Stela 5. Human side destroyed. Deity side : the deity (?) holds in hi.s right hand a 
 lance upon which is transfixed an animal's head ; his ornaments are eight inedallions, 
 partly round and partly square ; nine glyphs at the top. 
 
 Stela 6 (Plate LXXI). Human side destroyed. Deity side : beneficent god with chest 
 of good fortune and honey rope ; no supplicant at his side, but a personage of rank sitting 
 TurkLsli fashion serves as the ornamental base ; upper finish similar to that of Stehe 1 4^ 
 and 10 ; 9 large glyphs -|- 10 smaller ones. 
 
 Stela 7. Human side destroyed. Deity side : the base e.ihibits tlie monkey and the 
 rabbit m ovals of scroll-work ; the beneficent god, with the chest of good fortune at his 
 feet, lays the honey rope (a net 7) over the face of the supplicant ; top entirely destroyed; 
 twenty glyphs preserved. 
 
 STELA BELONGING TO THE TEMPLETE OF SEPULCHRAL PYRAMID 18. 
 
 Stela S. Broken and scaled off; probably sculptured only on one side; oval containing 
 half-length figure ; not photographed. 
 
 STELA BELONGING TO SEPULCHRAL PYRAMID ,•301. 
 
 Stela B (Plate LXXII, 3). Human side destroyed. Deity side : beneficent god with 
 horn of plenty in each hand. 
 
 SOUTH TEMPLE I. (STRUCTURE 39.) 
 
 Stela 10 (Plate LXXIII). Human side : fourteen glyphs as a base ; a warrior of hio-h 
 rank, one of a lesser grade, and two other personages ; upper finish destroyed. Deity side ■ 
 the nice detail of the work has been effaced on the lower two thirds. Principal personage 
 in front view, and two secondary figures ; upper finish preserved ; two ovals with little 
 figures, a large head m profile, and eight other faces in profile. 
 
 SIBM. PEAnODY MUSBU.M II. — 2.5 
 
194 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 SOUTH TEMPLE IL (STRUCTURE 40.) 
 
 Stela 11 (Plates XLIII, 1, LXXIV, LXXV). Tlie only stela still standing upriglit. 
 Human side: thirty-five glyphs as a base; two warriors of high rank standing opposite one 
 another ; twenty glyphs on the background. Upper finish shows four faces in profile, 
 scroll-work, two ovals with small human figures, and a half-length picture. Deity side : 
 soothsaying priest with mask, three plebeians ; above, two ovals with little human fig- 
 ures ; twenty large glyphs. 
 
 Stda a (Plate LXXVI). Only the lower and upper part in the interior of the 
 temple ; middle portion missing. Human side : upper inscription, 16-1-4 half glyphs. 
 Deity side : inscription of twenty-four glyphs at the top. 
 
 Stda IS (Plate LXXII, 2). Deity side destroyed. Human side : a man with a staff; a 
 feathered round flower above the head-dress ; upper finish of sixteen glyphs. 
 
 Slela llf. Human side and deity side destroyed. 
 
 SOUTH TEMPLE IIL (STRUCTURE 41.) 
 
 Stda 15 (Plate LXXIX, 1). Has only a human side ; other side plain. A warrior 
 and a captive ; eighteen glyphs on background. 
 
 Stda le. Deity side destroyed. Human side : the Halachvinic; eight glyphs. 
 
 Stda 17. Not found (?). 17 B. on the mountain side ; both sides destroyed. 
 
 Stela 18 (Plate LXXVII, 1). Deity side destroyed. Human side : a warrior and a 
 captive. The upper finish consists of thirty glyphs ; ten more glyphs on background, 
 a total of forty glyphs. 
 
 SteJa 19 (Plate LXXVII, 2). Deity side destroyed. Human side : a warrior with a 
 serrated lance and a captive. The upper finish has ten glyphs ; about ten more glyphs on 
 the background. This is the most injured of all the stelee of Yaxohilan. 
 
 Stela 20 (Plate LXXVIII). Ends in wedge-shaped arch, and is broken in two pieces. 
 Deity side destj-oyed. Human side: warrior with tiger-helmet; man with tiger-skin over 
 his back. On the background seven glyphs. In the angle of the arch, eight glyphs ; a 
 total of fifteen glyphs. 
 
 Of the twenty stela;, three (Nos. 8, 14, 17 P..) were not photographed. 
 
 LIST OF SCULPTURES OiN THE LL\TELS OF THE TEMPLES 
 AND PALACES OF YAXOHILAN, EXAMINED 1897-1900. 
 
 TEMPLE OF KETSALKO.\TL. (STRUCTURE 33.) 
 
 Lintd 1 (Plate XLVI), sculptured on under side. An Ahaucan with the small image 
 of a deity in his right hand ; behind him, a young girl bringing a sacrificial gift in a little 
 pouch ; thirty-four glyphs in all. 
 
 Lintd Z (Plate XLVII), sculptured on under side. The Ahaucan with a ketsal cross 
 in each hand, another personage of rank with a ketsal cross in his right hand ; twenty- 
 three glyphs in all. 
 
 Lintd S (Plate XLVIII), sculptured on under side. An Ahaucan with g-shaped 
 helmet upon his head, with another personage of rank opposite. Each holds out toward 
 the other the small image of a deity ; twenty-four glyphs in all. 
 
 STRUCTURE 34 (SITUATED BEHIND THE TEMPLE OF KETSALKOATL). 
 
 Lintd J„ sculptured on under side. The preserved half shows a sacrificial priest -wear- 
 ing a tiger helmet and holding a sacrificial knife in his right hand. The other half is 
 destroyed. 
 
 Lhdd 4 B. The sculpture on the under side of the other lintel is probably quite worn 
 away. 
 
YAXCHILAX. 
 
 195 
 
 STKUCTUKE 1. 
 
 Lintel S (Plate XLIX), sculptured on the under side. A woman with the little pouch 
 containing a sacrificial gift standing before the Ahaucan with a ketsal cross in each hand. 
 15 + 1 glyphs. 
 
 Lintel 6 (Plate L), sculptured on the under side. The principal personage carries in 
 his left hand a cone-shaped standard with the small figure of a deity on the truncation ; in 
 his right hand he holds a claw-footed sceptre. The second personage holds a dish'(?) 
 in his right hand and a claw-footed sceptre in his left. 14 glyphs. 
 
 Zm(ei 7 (Plate LI), sculptured on the underside. A woman brings the pouch with 
 sacrificial gifts to the Ahaucan, who holds toward her the little image of a god. The 
 Ahaucan wears a g-shaped lielmet upon his head ; thirteen glyphs. 
 
 Lintels (Plate LII), sculptured on the under side. Two warriors and two captives. 
 On the background twelve rather indistinct glyphs. 
 
 THE TEMPLE OP THE HALACHVINIC. (STEHOTURE 2.) 
 
 Lintel 9 (Plate LIII), sculptured on the under side. The Halachvinic with a second 
 chief, both armed with bows and arrows ; sixteen glyphs on tlie background. 
 
 THE DESTROYED STRUCTURE 3. 
 Lintel 10 (Plate LIV), sculptured on under side. Contains forty-eight glyphs. 
 Lintel 11, sculptured on the under side. A similar inscription, with glyphs entirely 
 worn away. 
 
 THE TEMPLE OF THE BIRD SACRlPrCE. (STRUCTURE 20.) 
 
 Lintel IS, sculptured on the under side. Two warriors and four captives ; eighteen 
 glyphs on the background, which have become quite, indistinct. 
 
 Lintel IS, sculptured on the under side. A woman of rank brings a plate with a bird 
 uiion it to the Ahaucan, who holds toward her tlie half-length image of a god ■ twenty- 
 five glyphs in all. ' 
 
 Lintel U (Plate LV), sculptured on the under side. The representation is similar to 
 that on Lintel 13; twenty glyphs in all. 
 
 STRUCTURE 21. 
 
 Lintel 15, sculptured on the under side. Sawed off. 
 Lijitcl 16, sculptured on the under side. Sawed off. 
 Lintel 17, sculptured on the under side. Sawed off. ■ 
 
 THE STRUCTURE OF THE INSCRIPTIONS. (STRUCTURE 22.) 
 
 Lintel 18 (Fig. 48), sculptured on the under side (from the rear entrance) ■ twentv 
 incised glyphs. 
 
 off. 
 
 Lintel 19, sculptured on the under side (from the side entrance). Incised glyphs sealed 
 
 Lintel SO, sculptured on the under side. The main portion probably taken away Only 
 a small fragment of upper part found. Number of glyplis estimated at twenty-nine 
 
 Lintel 21 (Plate LVI), sculptured on the under side ; thirty-two glyphs. Broken in the 
 middle. 
 
 Lintel 22 (Plate LVII), sculptured on the under side. Thirty-two glyphs 
 Lintel S3, sculptured on the under side. Probably taken away. As a circular altar 
 Ijelongs to this sculptured lintel, it is probable that the latter contained a figure 
 
196 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 THE TIGER TEMPLE. (STRUCTURE 23.) 
 
 Lintel 24, sculptured on tlie uuder side and exterior face. The sculpture on the ex- 
 terior face, probably consisting of eight large glyphs, had been battered off with an axe ! 
 The undersculpture had been taken away after the mass of stone at the back bad been 
 battered off. 
 
 Lintel 25i sculptured on under side and exterior face. The sculpture on the exterior 
 face as well as that of the under side has been sawed off. 
 
 Lintel 26 (Plates LVIII, LIX, 1), sculptured on under side and exterior face. The 
 sculpture on the exterior face consists of eight large, rounded glyphs, for the most part 
 composed of four lesser ones. 
 
 Undersculpture : A woman of rank presents to the sacrificial priest an animal's head 
 transformed into a helmet; fifteen very delicately executed glyphs and about six which 
 have become invisible. 
 
 THE STRUCTURE TRANSVERSELY TO THE TIGER TEMPLE. (STRUCTURE 24.) 
 
 Lintel 27 (Plate LIX, 2), sculptured on exterior face ; sixteen glyphs, well preserved. 
 Lintel 28 (Plate LIX, 3), sculptured on exterior face; sixteen glyphs. The stone is 
 still in place. 
 
 THE PALACE OF THE SEVEN CHAMBERS. (STRUCTURE 10.) 
 
 Lintel 29 (Fig. 42), sculptured on under side. "Well preserved and still over the door- 
 way to which it belongs ; twenty glyphs. 
 
 Lintel 30 (Plate LX), sculptured on under side; twenty glyphs. 
 Lintel 31 (Plate LXI), sculptured on under side ; twenty glyphs. 
 
 Lintel S3 (Plate LXII), sculptured on under side. A woman of rank presents a pouch 
 with sacrificial gift to the Ahaucan, who holds a small idol toward her ; twenty-six glyphs. 
 
 Lintel 33 (Plate LXIII), sculptured on under side. Warrior with 9-sbaped helmet 
 holds a quiver with bow and arrows in his right hand; twenty-five glyphs. 
 
 STRUCTURE ADJACENT TO THE PALACE OF THE SEVEN CHAMBERS. 
 (STRUCTURE V2.) 
 
 Lintel 34-, sculptured on under side. Still in place, but much cracked and walled in ; 
 thirty-two glyphs. 
 
 Lintel 35, sculptured on under side. Sawed off. 
 
 Lintel 36, sculptured on under side. Weather-worn carving ; a man of rank holds out 
 a manikin. 
 
 LJniel 37 (Plate LXIV), sculptured on under side ; thirty-two glyphs, perfectly pre- 
 served. 
 
 STRUCTURE 16. 
 
 Lintel 38 (Plate LXV, 1), sculptured on exterior face. Figiire of a woman sitting 
 Turkisli fashion and holding a "decorative serpent" in her arms; sixteen glyphs. 
 
 Lintel 39 (Plate LXV, 2), sculptured on exterior face. A man gracefully reclining, 
 intertwined with "decorative serpent;" sixteen glyphs, admirably preserved. 
 
 Lintel 40 (Plate LXV, 3), sculptured on exterior face. Figure of a woman sitting 
 Turkish fashion with "decorative serpent" in her arms ; sixteen glyphs. This stone still 
 rests upon its supports. 
 
 STRUCTURE 42, BELONGING TO THE LESSER ACROPOLIS. 
 
 Lintel 41, sculptured on under side. Sawed off. 
 
 Lintel 42 (Plate LXVI), sculptured on under side. Still in place over the doorway to 
 which it belongs, but partly calcined. An Ahaucan holds the little figure of a god out 
 
tlllHrtMMMlrtniMMlMinHWlKW^illflllllMlllri"'""-"'"""""' 
 
 YAXCHILAN. 
 
 197 
 
 toward a second personage of rank, who presents to the Aliaucaii a round object and a 
 sceptre (?). Nineteen preserved glyphs, and someanore which have been calcined. 
 
 ^ Lintel 4.3 (Vlnte LXVII), sculptured on underside. The principal personage holds 
 with his right hand a cone-shaped standard, upon the truncated top of which is seated the 
 small figure of a god. A woman of rank presents to the principal personage a dish con- 
 taining a serpentine object. Eight well-preserved glyphs, and six partly battered off. 
 
 STRUCTURE 44, BELONGING TO THE LESSER ACROPOLIS. 
 
 Lintd U, sculptured on the under side. The stone has been cracked in pieces and the 
 fragments removed. Certain indications lead to the supposition that the representation 
 upon it was similar to those of Lintels 43 and -IB. 
 
 Lintel iS, sculptured on under side. Cracked and for the most part calcined. A sac- 
 rificial priest holds a sacrificial knife with certain pendants in his uplifted left hand ■ he 
 stretches his right hand out toward the head of a captive (?) crouching before him. Some 
 of the glyphs are preserved, and some are calcined. 
 
 Lintel J,6 (Plate LXVIII), sculptured on under side. Cracked and almost wholly ,-aI- 
 oined. The priest stretches his right hand out toward the head of a person erouchin"- on 
 the ground ; in his left hand he holds the peculiar pendants. Some glyphs are still pre- 
 served, others wholly calcined. 
 
 Of these forty-seven lintels (if 4 B is included), four (i. 4 B. 11, 19, an,l 3fi) were 
 not photographed, because they were completely destroyed, and ten {i. e., 15,' 16. 17, 20 
 24, 23, 33, 41, and 44), because they had been removed. ' ' ' 
 
 Drawings were made of three, 18 (Fig. 48), 29 (Fig. 42), and ?A. Tlie desi-n on the 
 last ,s incomplete, owing to injury. All the others were photographed either in the 
 daytime or at night. 
 
198 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 XIV. 
 
 VISIT TO ANDRES BOLON.* 
 
 When my work in Yaxchilan was finished, my men were completely 
 discouraged with regard to undertaking further explorations and ardently 
 longed to return to Tenosique. Such is the character of these people that 
 even for the highest wages and with the best treatment, they cannot be in- 
 duced to continue at one pursuit for any length of time. My success in 
 having secured their services for seven months may be regarded as the ut- 
 most tliat can be accomplished. Nevertheless it was my wish to push for- 
 ward at least as far as the lower course of the Rio Lacantun, not so much to 
 undertake any serious work — especially as my photographic material was 
 exliausted — as to institute inquiries at the neighboring raonterias as to 
 whether further ruins had been discovered within their precincts. I there- 
 fore persuaded my impatient men to follow me as far as the Lacantun River. 
 They finally consented to do this, since it involved only what might .be 
 regarded as an excursion without any hard work. 
 
 Our superfluous luggage and the paper moulds were concealed in an 
 abandoned temple to be called for on our return. In this way the difficulty 
 of the reconnoissance was materially simplified. 
 
 About two Mexican leagues above the ruined city, opposite the mouth 
 of the seemingly insignificant Arroyo de Yaxchilan, lie the ranchitos of Jose 
 Maria Jimenez (mentioned in an earlier report) and of his sons and kindred, 
 where we passed one night. 
 
 Notwithstanding the fact that in their search for caoutchouc, hide, 
 Jimenez and his people are accustomed to traverse the entire Guatemala 
 shore as far as El Cayo, they had never seen anything but vestigios and 
 nothing that could be called standing ruins. Otherwise they would readily 
 have guided ns. It is extremely difficult, generally speaking, to discover a 
 ruin containing anything of interest, and this is in part due to the fact that 
 chains of cities, so to speak, attained architectural development along certain 
 lines and not along others. 
 
 To gratify those who desire to have as full a description as possible, I 
 may add that the actual and larger Yaxchilan River flows in a direction 
 opposite to that of the smaller stream of the same name, and as a matter of 
 fact into the Rio San Pedro (-Limon). As it is easy to lose one's way in this 
 wilderness of which no topographical charts have ever been made, travel- 
 lers, on reaching the smaller stream mentioned above, lielieved it to be 
 the true Yaxchilan and therefore gave it that name. Subsequently, this 
 was found to be an error, but in popular usage l^otli rivers are called by 
 
 * Living on tlie Guatemala side of the Usumatsintla River (April, 1900) 
 
VISIT TO AXDEES BOLON. 
 
 199 
 
 one and the same name. Hence I designate the river flowing to meet the 
 San Pedro-Limon, " el Yaxchilan grande," and that emptying (directly) 
 into the Usumatsintla, " el pequeilo Yaxchilan," which will obviate all 
 confusion. 
 
 We took advantage of our stay with Jimenez to buy provisions for the 
 trip up the river, and thu.s fully equipped we started on our journey to the 
 monteria "Orizaba" situated four leagues farther up. This monteria 
 belongs to a German-American by the name of Schindler, and is situated 
 on the left (Mexican) shore. 
 
 A short distance above the entrance of the Yaxcliilan, the Usumatsintla 
 again winds along through a low mountain range. For some distance the 
 ascent is rendered difficult by numerous beds of rock, between which it was 
 necessary for us to force our way. Enormous caymans, basking on these 
 rocks, plunged noisily into the water at our approach. After a rather toil- 
 some journey we reached the monteria Oi'izaba, where we temporarily stored 
 our luggage. 
 
 I had previously ascertained that there were some heaps of ruins in the 
 forest behind the present location of the lints of the woodcutters. I there- 
 fore availed myself of this opportunity to inspect the most important of 
 these ruins and to search for sculptures. The principal structure must once 
 have been by no means insignificant. Remains of a stone stairway can still 
 be distinguished, leading up to a terrace the superstructure of which is 
 in utter ruins. 
 
 At this monteria we succeeded in persuading an intelligent man. Manuel 
 Reyes by name, to accompany us to the Guatemala side on a visit to the 
 only Indian living there, Andres Bolon by name, who was well acquainted 
 with the region and whose final opinion as an expert I wished to obtain as 
 to whether there was actually nothing of interest in the region on the right 
 bank. 
 
 When we were ready we embarked, accompanied by Reyes, in order to 
 travel three kilometres down the river again to the place where a small 
 stream " El Arroyo de Bolon " empties into it on the right. We entered the 
 stream for the purpose of fastening our cayuco at a spot hidden from pass- 
 ers-by. Places where one embarks or lands are called in this country " el 
 paso," hence the point where we landed is called '• El Paso de Bolon," 
 because that Indian's place is reached from here, and at this spot Bolon 
 himself embarks wdien he wishes to go to some other monteria. 
 
 On the right bank of the arroyo we pushed forward into the magnili- 
 cent forest of tall trees frequently interspersed with guano and corozo palms. 
 While traversing the very first league we came to a small ruin, wdiere, as 
 several heaps of debris bore witness, stone buildings had once stood. 
 
 After travelling almost four leagues (about thirteen kilometres) we 
 emerged on a savanna covered with succulent grass, through which we had to 
 
200 
 
 RESEARCHES IX THE DSUSIATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 walk in order to reach Bolon's huts. On neariiig these, I .sent Reyes ahead, 
 who was on friendly terms witli the family, in order not to alarm them, and 
 to apprise them of our coming. 
 
 In these huts we met two of Bolon's wives with their children and his 
 eldest son, a lad of about fifteen years of age, Eolon himself was absent. 
 Our reception was a friendly one and an empty hut was assigned to us. 
 The women soon brought to each of us una surtii de pescados, which is the 
 name given to a byucco (piece of vine) having strung upon it a dozen half- 
 cooked fish dried in the sun [mojurras), and some large bananas and tortillas. 
 Here was a repetition of what I had so often experienced ; namely, wherever 
 the Indians are not affected by the Spanish element, food is remarkably 
 abundant. Wherever the people have come under Spanish influence, we 
 liave sometimes been unable to obtain a single miserable fish even at a high 
 price. Now each of us received a dozen large delicious fish, which we could 
 hardly consume in three days. 
 
 We were rather weary and also quite hungry and therefore enjoyed a 
 repast of the fish and bananas slightly roasted at the fire ; we also made 
 coffee and then sought our night's quarters, fully protected, under our 
 mosqiiitcros, from the gnats which swarmed hither in dense nniltitudes 
 from the laguna near by. 
 
 Regarding the circumstances of this man, — who preferred the free life 
 in the wilderness to the constraints of a civilization which had conferred 
 but little good upon him, — the following can be said : Bolon is an Indian or 
 half-breed from Tenosique and was the mozo adeiidado (that is, one who 
 serves another for debt) of a business man of that town. The name Bolon 
 is an abbreviation, the full name being Bolonchac (Wo«-&rf-=uine-red), which 
 is the Indian name for a favorite species of quail the plaintive call of which 
 in the silence of the night or in the early morning is heard at a great dis- 
 tance. Overwhelmed by his debt and .seeing no better future before him, he 
 went many years ago among the Lacantun Indians, who at that time were 
 settled on the right bank of the Usuma.tsintla. Bolon therefore belongs in 
 the category of those who in this republican land are called mozos hm'dos ; 
 but it may be incidentally mentioned that subsequently he cancelled his 
 indebtedness with caoutchouc, hide, and at the present time he has noth- 
 ini' more to fear. As a Maya-speaking Indian from Tenosique he had no 
 difliculty in making himself understood by the Lacantuns, whose dress and 
 customs he adopted, and who gave him a wife. In the course of time man)' 
 of these Indians moved to distant inaccessible wildernesses, others died, and 
 in this way more women and children fell to Bolon. The last chieftain of 
 the race, when dying at an advanced age, even conferred upon Bolon his 
 priestly office, and earnestly impressed upon him his obligation to watch 
 over the graves of the departed, and enjoined upon him that, when he in his 
 turn should see death approaching, he should place in the temples at Yax- 
 chilan the incense vessels whicli are in the temple hut by the graves. 
 
VISIT TO AlfDEES BOLON. 
 
 201 
 
 This Indian settlement, wliere the incense vessels still remain, and 
 where Bolon and the remaining women and children yearly burn copal and 
 offer sacrifices, must be about two or three leagues (two or three hours' 
 journey) below Bolon's present establishment. 
 
 Although it is not to be supposed that any valuable historical or reli- 
 gious traditions could have been preserved by these people, considering the 
 extremely low intellectual condition into whicli they have all degenerated, 
 it is nevertheless interesting to note how the last remnants of this race 
 have adhered, amid every hardship, to a liind of ancestor worship, and how 
 the memory of the former greatness and sacredness of Yaxchilan has 
 endured among them. At any rate, we may take it for granted that Bolon 
 has acquired a full linowledge of the habits and customs and also of the re- 
 ligious conceptions of tlie Indians with whom he has lived for so many years. 
 Whoever should succeed in gaining his confidence might acquire much inter- 
 esting information, though presented in a vague and confused style. 
 
 Thanks to our mosquiteros, we jKxssed a comfortable niglit. We invited 
 young Manuel Bolon to take breakfast with us, and cluitting with liim about 
 indifferent matters, I introduced questions relative to that wliich interested 
 me, and thus tried to find out from liim wliether there were any ruins or 
 sculptures on this side of the Usumatsintla. The young man stated tliat he 
 had never seen a ruin, but he knew of a cuera (cave) on the top of the 
 mountain on the eastern shore of the laguna. If we wisluid, lie would guide 
 us tliither. We accepted his offer so that the day might not pass quite 
 unprofitably. 
 
 We liad to go only about three hundred paces from the huts to reacli a 
 small lake, the greatest extent of which in tlie dry season may measure 
 about one and a half kilometres. As this lake has no name, I gave it for 
 the time being the full name of the Indian owner of the monteria, ■• La 
 Laguna de Bolonchac." (See map, Phxte I of this volume.) There is said to 
 be a series of small lakes in tliis region which have never been explored by 
 Europeans. 
 
 Fortunately Bolon had a cayuco — a boat made of a hoUowed-ont tree- 
 trunk^ in which we embarlied. Witliout stopping in the more shallow 
 parts of the laguna, we rowed toward the mountain range, where the water 
 attains a considerable depth and where fish are exceedingly plentiful. 
 Water-fowl of various species enlivened the mirror-like surface. We were 
 especially interested in some large black and white ducks, which, however, 
 were frightened and flew away before we could get ready to shoot them. 
 High in the air circled some beautiful coscaaiauhtli, " king vultures " 
 (Cut/iar/es papa Linn.), whose black and white plumage glistened in the sun. 
 This uoble bird — which the Spaniards call " El Rey de los Zopilotes ' — 
 can very rarely be observed in its wild state. 
 
 We soon reached the wooded slopes of the little mountain range and 
 
 MEM. PEABODY MDSEUM II.- 
 
202 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 fastened our cayuco to the roots of an overhanging tree. The ascent was 
 very steep and rocky. After reaching the summit of the mountain, we 
 examined the slope on the other side and soon found the rather spacious 
 open cave, which iu ancient times probably afforded an acceptable shelter to 
 Indians hunting in the adjacent forests or fishing in the lake. I at once 
 examined the walls to see if there were not pictnres of some kind cut in 
 the rock. 
 
 In the centre of the cave where the ground had been somewhat levelled, 
 there was an almost vertical boulder about two and a half metres high. On 
 the wall back of this rock an oval stalactite had formed in the course 
 of years. Into this two round holes for eyes, two quite small ones for nose, 
 and a short line for the mouth had been cut, perhaps by people of a long- 
 vanished race. It is easy to imagine that this rock in front of the human 
 face served in the most primitive fashion to hold incense vessels or small 
 sacrificial gifts. 
 
 On searching the corners of the cave for potsherds, I found a few, 
 which seemed to belong to the general Maya-Lacantun period. 
 
 I named the cave " La Cueva de la Cabeza," and made a little sketch 
 of the cave with the stone altar and the face on the stalactite. 
 
 A heap of stones near the cave seemed to me to be the remains of a 
 building once standing in the vicinity. As we paused on the mountain top 
 and gazed in the direction of Peten-Itza over the boundle.ss wilderness inter- 
 sected by mountain ranges of not inconsiderable dimensions, we beheld 
 nothing but a vast uninhabited and unexplored tract of country. 
 
 Then we descended to our cayuco to explore further the laguna and to 
 fish in the most favorable places. 
 
 My men threw in their hooks and with such success that at each throw 
 a fish rose almost instantly to the bait. These fish were mojarras, — or ien- 
 ciiayacas, as the natives call them, — and were from 25 cm. to 35 cm. 
 long, having eight black spots on each side. In a short time we caught 
 fully a hundred of these delicious fish, so that the entire bottom of the 
 cayuco was covered with them. "We also saw great numbers of small fish. 
 sardmas. which probably served as food for the tencuayacas. In the distance 
 huge alligators swam lazily about. 
 
 A gorgeous vegetation is developed on these shores. Many trees, like 
 the macuilishuatl and dmll'e, showed a profusion of beautiful pink and white 
 blossoms. We also saw a great deal of palo de tinie, which no one here 
 thinks of turning to profit. 
 
 Late in the afternoon we returned, to the huts in a contented frame of 
 mind, without, it is true, having made any important discoveries. 
 
 While we were engaged in cooking, Andres Bolon appeared upon the 
 scene. When Reyes had explained the purpose of our visit, Bolon came into 
 our hut to pay u,s his respects and to offer his services. At first, of course, 
 
SAN LORENZO. 
 
 203 
 
 I refrained from asking liim troublesome questions. Not until late in the 
 evening, after Bolon with his wives and I with ray men had eaten an 
 abundant repast, and Bolon had come again to our camp-fire, did I attempt 
 to settle the most important question as to whether he had ever seen ruins 
 in the wide tracts through which he roamed. 
 
 I regret to report that the result of our conference — at which Reyes 
 faithfully assisted — was negative. Bolon positively asserted that he had 
 never seen a standing structure like those in Yaxchilan ; that only here 
 and there foundations, remains of walls, heaps of stones (cui/os), etc., were 
 to be found, nothing worth photographing : . . . hay cimientos . . . imlazos 
 de pared . . . cni/os . . . en Jin vestigios donde se conoce que Jm hahido 
 poUaciun . . . pero ruiiuis en pie, como las de Taxeliilan, no las hay en ninguna 
 parte! . . . Furthermore, Bolon offered to guide me to the vesticjios of which 
 he knew. 
 
 While convinced that a journey through this wilderness to all the 
 picturesque lakes and little mountain ranges would be of very great interest 
 to the naturalist or to the artist, I decided to leave such an expedition for 
 some future occasion and at present to return to "El Paso de Bolon" in 
 order from there to continue the voyage up the river. On the next morning, 
 therefore, we prepared for the return journey and took leave of Bolon and 
 his wives in the friendliest manner. 
 
 Casting a final glance upon this paradisiacal little spot of earth, I could 
 not refrain from thinking that it might be regarded as a remarkable fact 
 that I, Teobert Maler, in the last year of the nineteenth century, had en- 
 countered in that vast wilderness on the right bank of the Usumatsintla — 
 opposite the ancient Yaxchilan — a single inhabitant — a mozo huido — 
 with the wives of deceased Indians and a very few children, the last 
 remnant of their race. 
 
 Conqueror and conquered have both vanished from this region, leaving 
 no trace behind. The forest primeval has again asserted its rights. 
 
 XV. 
 
 SAN LORENZO.* 
 
 Upox our teturn to the monteria " Orizaba," we immediately set out on 
 the voyage upstream. The river again forces a passage through a small 
 mountain range, which is the last on the way from Tenosique and the 
 first as one travels down from the mouth of the Lacantun. Here in its 
 passage between the precipitous rocks the river is often scarcely twenty-five 
 
 * On the left bank of the Lacantun River. (Middle of April, 1900.) Mexican territory, in the State 
 of Chiapas. (See map, Plate I, of this volume.) 
 
204 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE USDMATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 to thirty metres wide, wliicli strikes one as remarkable, since it has already 
 received the vast volume of water from the Chixoy and Lacantun, and mucli 
 farther up — before the entrance of these tributaries — it is from three to 
 five times as broad. 
 
 After a toilsome passage of about two leagues, we came to the recently 
 established monteria. " La Esperanza," which belongs to the Schiiidler con- 
 cession and is situated on the left (Mexican) shore. Having received a very 
 courteous invitation from the manager. Sr. Manuel Otero, we spent the night 
 here, and, as usual, made inquiries relating to our research. 
 
 The huts of this settlement were three leagues from the mouth of the 
 Lacantun. Travelling through this no longer mountainous region, we passed 
 two stratified formations of rock witli water pouring over them. One was 
 called el Chorro cliico, and the other, which with its waterfall was very 
 picturesque, el Chorro grande (on the right Guatemala shore). 
 
 In this tract we were again amazed at the luxuriant growth of the trees, 
 among which were hmnpetslcin and (juaijaean trees in the full glory of their 
 wealth of yellow blossoms. 
 
 Along both sides of the triangular point of land, which is formed by the 
 conjunction of the Lacantun and Usuraatsintla rivers, there are liuts built 
 by settlers. This colony is called '• Tres Naciones." We now turned into 
 the Lacantun, the large tributary river on the left side. After rowing about 
 a league, we came to the enormous bed of stratified limestone which the 
 natives call El Planclion de las Flyuras. 
 
 It is certain that an ancient city once stood here along the left high 
 shore of the river. This is proved by the fact that in the course of the slight 
 excavations which have been made by the few people settled here — for 
 example, in building a hut — numerous flint lances and arrow-heads, axes of 
 a hard green stone, stone beads, potsherds, etc., have come to light. 
 
 The surface of this bed of limestone, which is almost horizontal, having 
 only a very slight incline, forms in the dry season a level beach about one 
 hundred and fifty metres long, and from thirty to forty metres wide. 
 
 The inhabitants of the neighboring country have evidently used this 
 large, smooth, and convenientlj^ situated surface to immortalize themselves 
 or their kindred, buried perhaps near by on the high shore behind the rock, 
 by carving low relief's, or by merely making deep incisions. This vast sur- 
 face may once have contained nearly a hundred of these designs of the most 
 varied kind. Many have become entirely obliterated, partly owing to natural 
 causes, and partly to the ignorance of the people now living in the neighbor- 
 hood, and to the thoughtlessness of travellers who at night kindle their 
 oampfires on the surface of the rock often directly on one of the pictures. 
 Nevertheless a considerable number are still plainly discernible. 
 
 The " Planchon " or " Playon " with its pictures is visible, however, 
 only in the dry season. In the rainy season it is entirely hidden beneath the 
 
SxVN LORENZO. 205 
 
 water. Heuce every one who carae down the river gave me the following 
 advice : . . . ija quedo comjjIetaineiUc fuera el planchon . . . ahora concient que 
 suba Usted el rio arriba para ceiio. . . . 
 
 We secured our craft to a rock and decided to stay here two days. I 
 had the surface of the stone wherever figures were still discernible swept 
 
 Fig. 67. — Rock f'AitviN'Gs: San Lorenzo. 
 
 clean and sprinkled with water, for the purpose of making at least tempo- 
 rary sketches of the principal outlines of the best-preserved pictures. It 
 turned out that no satisfactory drawing could be made during the day owing to 
 the unfavorable light. Not until about five o'clock in the afternoon — when 
 the rays of the western sun struck the stones at an acute angle — were the 
 still preserved designs plainly distinguishable. At this hour I hastily filled 
 in my temporary sketches on which the outlines and measurements were 
 merely indicated. 
 
 Referring to my finished drawings (Fig. 67), I shall confine myself here 
 to a few remarks. Near the centre of this rock are several large concentric 
 circles — probably indicating a circular altar for sacrificial gifts — around which 
 some of tlie more important figures, especially the low reliefs, are grouped. 
 
20C 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE USUirATSIXTLA VALLEY. 
 
 Tliese reliefs are evidently a substitute for sepulchral stelce. Unfortunately 
 only crude outlines remain of the personages depicted upon them. 
 
 The largest design, which is im. 70 cm. long, represents a plaza sur- 
 rounded by temples. Both the temples proper and the stairways, whicli 
 lead up to them, are distinctly visible. 
 
 ^ I also found a drawing of a circle intersected by a cross, which recalls 
 similar designs on the lintel slabs of El Cayo, La Mar, and Piedras Negras. 
 
 An animal figure about 175 cm. long struck me as especially intere.st- 
 mg. It seems to represent no species of reptile or mammal now extant. It 
 appears rather to resemble a long-extinct species of saurian, but is probably 
 some mythical beast. 
 
 ^ It may safely be assumed that in the most flourishing period of the long- 
 vanished city once crowning the shore above, this stone foreshore was "a 
 sacred spot consecrated to the memory of the dead, where, perhaps, sacrifices 
 were offered to propitiate the much-feared water-gods. It is probable that 
 at that time most of the pictures were painted red, for they would otherwise 
 have been almost invisible during the day. 
 
 It IS to be deplored that while the well-meaning and eidi ghtened Mexi- 
 can government passes law after law for the protection of the historic re- 
 mains still extant, it is very difficult to enforce these 
 laws, since the people do not co-operate. 
 // ^ ((^®\ directly above the flat picture 
 
 K^^^ ^v3^B\ '""^^ stands the hut of a Guatemalan settler, who is 
 '^li^i'ge of a maize depot. The cayucos from the di.s- 
 Jj I .'^^8 monterias come here to be loaded with maize. 
 
 ' Before loading, the ears of maize are stripped of their 
 
 husks (holocJies), which are thrown in great heaps upon 
 the limestone rocks. On the two nights which we 
 spent here, these heaps of liolodm were set on fire by 
 the roijas of the cayucos, and the surrounding landscape 
 appeared as if illuminated by a magic light. The 
 reader can imagine that with such treatment very little 
 will be left of these curious sculptures for the inspection 
 of future explorers. 
 
 About one kilometre above the " Planchon," the 
 Lacantun receives a little stream, which I called '• El 
 Arroyo de San Lorenzo." There is a sugar rancho here, 
 Fig. 6S. - Sto.n-e Head the owner of which, Enrique Solis by name, had iust 
 FROM THE Principal Tkm- j-, . , r , ' 
 
 PLE OF San Lorenzo. ^ccorduig to the custom of the country, this 
 
 event had assembled people from far and wide, who 
 
 I am sorry to say — were celebrating the relada by indulging in the liberal 
 use of brandy. 
 
 We naturally avoided landing at this spot and rowed about half a kilo- 
 
SAN LOEEXZO. 
 
 207 
 
 metre farther up, where the principal temple hiid formerly stood on the bank 
 above. This temple is now in utter ruins, and nothing but terraces and 
 heaps of stones remain. 
 
 The figure of a god (Ketsalkoat! ?) seems to have stood in the centre, 
 and when the building fell down, it probably remained partially visible, thus 
 suggesting to the incorrigible perpetrators of mischief that it might be car- 
 ried off. Several years ago, therefore, this figure was thrown from the bank 
 above down to the shore below. As is invariably the case with these stupid 
 fellows, they only then discovered that tlie transportation of a large and 
 heavy stone in a cayuco was attended with certain difficulties, and they 
 simply left it lying by the edge of the water. In the rainy sea.son the water 
 rushes in considerable volume over the idol and threatens to carry it alonf. 
 When we reached the spot below the ruined temple, the injage lay dry on 
 the ground. It consists of a headpiece L54 cm. high and 54 cm. wide, exe- 
 cuted in full relief (Fig. 68). Naturally thi.s has now a rough appearance. 
 I do not believe that a body ever belonged to it, but think that the head 
 with the neck was set into the stepped wall of the sanctuary of the temple. 
 The oval face is surmounted by a high serpent's head, like that on the Ket- 
 salkoatl figure in the principal temple of Yaxchilan. 
 
 While employed in the cleansing and sketching of this figure — whieli, 
 owing to the injuries it had suffered, is of little \ alue — I received an in- 
 teresting v'mit. 
 
 Chanvin — the only Lacantun still .settled on the lower Lacantun — had 
 also come to the Rancho de Soils for the purpose of expressing to the afflicted 
 family his heart-felt sympathy and incidentally also of solacing himself witli 
 a glass of brandy. He and his sons had seen us pass and had followed in 
 order to pay their respects to us. 
 
 Tiiese dark-skinned men viewed with astonishment the idol freed from 
 sand and mud, but at my queries as to whether tliey knew of other stones of 
 this kind in the forests, they displayed a lamentaljle lack of archaeological 
 knowledge. Nevertheless we parted friends. 
 
 Continuing our trip upstream, we came to Chanvin's huts, which stood on 
 the right high shore. As we passed along, the vegetation, untouclied hy the 
 hand of man, was marvellously beautiful, especially along the arms, -which 
 encompass an island of considerable length. 
 
 When we reached the empty huts of Chanvin, I deemed it advisable to 
 take advantage of the ab.sence of the family to examine the household effects, 
 without, however, appropriating the smallest object. 
 
 The articles of clothing, hammocks, cooking utensils, calabashes, and 
 also the sets of bows and arrows, closely resembled those which I had found 
 among the Indians of Petha. In none of the huts, however, did we find a 
 board stand for holding incense vessels. The wily Chanvin, who, like all 
 Lacantuns, does not like to have strangers see his gods, had ljuilt a small 
 
208 
 
 RESEARCHES IK THE USUJIATSINTLA VALLEY. 
 
 temple hut which was concealed in the forest at some distance from his dwell- 
 ing. This I foresaw and looked for the path to tliis little hut, which haviut; 
 found I followed with rapid steps. After about three hundred paces I came 
 to a small clearing adorned with flowers. Here was a small open hut in 
 which large cooking utensils, mill-stones, etc., lay around. On a wide, thick 
 plank which rested on small stakes, Chanvin's solitary sacrificial vessel was 
 di.splayed. I examined it on all sides. It was of the largest kind that is 
 made, and the decoration was the most beautiful I had ever seen. But the 
 god's head on the rim was insignificant, as is usually the case on the larger 
 incense vessels, which always have small heads, while the smaller vessels have 
 large ones. In its ornamentation, however, which consisted of round flowers 
 executed in broken lines, this vessel was superior to all others of its kind, 
 inasmuch as a portion of the decoration was incised work, while the rest was 
 in relief. But in this instance too, it should be noted that the beautiful de- 
 sign had no glyphical import. I returned the vessel carefully to its place, 
 and hastened back to my men. 
 
 The question .naturally arises whether vessels of this kind are still made 
 and where? Chanvin or his wife probably obtained their vessel from other 
 Indians. 
 
 Chanvin's huts are about two leagues fi-om the ruins of San Lorenzo. 
 But we rowed two additional leagues upstream to the monteria "La Es- 
 trella," which also belongs to the Schindler concession and i.? managed by 
 Sr. Joaquin Cetina. This establishment lies on the left bank of the Lacan- 
 tun. Being very kindly received by Sr. Cetina, ^vith whom I had previously 
 become acquainted at Tenosique, we rested here one day and gathered in- 
 teresting information concerning the condition of affairs in this locality. 
 Getina's woodmen had never seen actual ruins. However, we discussed the 
 possibility of reaching the ruins on the Lacanha River from this point at 
 some future time. 
 
 Sr. Cetina told ns that not far from this monteria there lived an aged, 
 isolated Lacantun, who was childless and had a wife who was also advanced 
 in years. This man is celebrated as an herb doctor (yerlatero) and some- 
 times Indians from a great distance come to consult him in difficult cases. 
 Unfortunately — Cetina said — this man and his wife are both so shy tliat 
 when one attempts to visit them, they forsake their hut and do not re- 
 turn until the visitor has departed. 
 
 It is a pity that such great difficulties stand in the way of any explorer 
 who might wish to gain a more intimate knowledge of the customs and man- 
 ners of this race, which is now on the verge of extinction. 
 
 With the excursion to the monteria "La Estrella" my expeditions came 
 to an end for the time being, and we started upon the return journey to 
 Tenosique, or, strictly speaking, to Merida. 
 
INDEX TO VOLUME II. 
 
 Acropolis, Piedras Ncgras, 52 ; Great and Lei-ser, 
 
 Taxchilao, 1 U, 139, 157, 183 
 Agave, 29 
 AhiUi, 175 
 
 Ahaiicaii. or high priest, 116, 1 17, 132, 163-165, ISj 
 
 Aliau-Kalitun, meauiug of glypli. 62 
 
 Alligator, serrated tail of, 127 
 
 Alligator teeth as necklace, 28 
 
 Alligators (caymans), 199, 202 
 
 Altar fie Saerificios, 108, 109 
 
 Altar in rock painting, 205 
 
 Altar sculptured on stela; aiirl lintels, 57, &3, 142, 164, 
 185 
 
 Altars, Chinikiha, l-'l 
 
 Altars, El Cayo, 98 
 
 Altars, Piedras Ncgras, 45-65 
 
 Alrars, Yaxchilan, 120, 126, 129. 134-140, 147-151, 
 156, 167-179, 189-192; with glyphs and sculp- 
 ture, 138, 1G8, 171, 189-191 
 
 Ahayaga, Maestro de Cam])o, 106-108 
 
 Aniatl, or roll of paper, 103 
 
 Aiiaite II, ex])loration, 98-99 
 
 Ancestor worship of Indians, 200, 201 
 
 Andres Bolon, visit to, 198-203 
 
 Animal in sculpture, 47, 68. 70-73, 128, 144, 146, 175. 
 
 176, 190 
 Animal mask, 159 
 
 Animal, mythical, on picture rock, 206 
 Animals, domestic, 37 
 Apes, skulls of, 28 
 Arahesque, in sculpture, 58, 68 
 
 Arch: triangular, 12, 52; pointed, 15; wedge-shaped, 
 123,133 ; ogive, 125, 160, 171 ; stepped, 155, 159 
 (see also Vaulted ceilings) 
 
 Architecture (see Artistic development, Arch, Frieze, 
 Vaulted ceiling, etc., also List of Illustrations) 
 
 Aristolochia grandiflora, 90 
 
 Armadillo (Hiicch), warrior, 73 
 
 Aromatic herbs, 28 
 
 Arrows of Lacautuu Indians, 36-38, 204 
 Arroyo de Bolon, 199 
 Arroyo de San Lorenzo, 206 
 Arroyo de Yaxchilan, 198 
 
 Artistic development in architecture and sculpture : 
 low, 88; high, 93, 95, 118, 135, 143, 146, 155, 
 163, 189 ; different periods of, 104, 129, 130 
 
 Asiatic fashion of sitting (see Cross-legged) 
 
 Asiatic figures, 128 
 
 Asiatic shape of box of felicities, 48 
 
 Astronomer-priests, 85 
 
 MEM. PEABODT MnSEUSI 11. — 27 
 
 Aufiur's stone, 176 
 Axes of green stone, 204 
 
 Balaucan, 1 1 
 Balclic. 27, 162 
 
 Banana leaves for wrapping tobacco, 28 
 Bananas, as native food, 26, 1 13, 200 
 Barricade, 169 
 
 liarrios, .Jacinto, 106, 107, 108 
 Baskets. 28 
 Battle vases, 121 
 Baxcan River, 22 
 
 Beads and bead-work, in sculpture, 62, 63, 73, 74, 87, 
 88, 102, 119, 128, 142, 146, 152, 161, 175. 176, 204 
 Beam, ornamental, 128, 143, 145, 172 
 Beans, 113 
 Bee-hive of gourd, 28 
 Bee.*, lieads of, in sculpture, 128, 145, 146 
 Beetles, 1!2 
 
 Bejucos, used in plaiting baskets, etc , 24, 2S 
 Beneficent god, 48, 122, 126, 128, 129, 143, 145,168, 
 182 
 
 Bernoulli, Mr., 108 
 
 Berzunza, Captain, 83 
 
 Bird cages, Indian, 28, 37 
 
 Bird, ill sculpture. 47, 49, 165, 186 
 
 Bird, f^acriticc of, 139, 142 
 
 Bird Temple (Structure 20, Yaxchilan), 139 
 
 Bird's head on helmet, 6! 
 
 Birds, native, 29, 34, 37, 90, 110, 162, 200, 201 
 Bishop of Merida, 83 
 
 Black rock, giving name to Piedras Negras, 42 
 
 Boat, native, 9, 17, 25, 96, 109, 112, 201 
 
 Boca del Cerro, 106, 107 
 
 Bolon, Andres, visit to, 198-203 
 
 Bulunahau, glyph, 148 
 
 Boliincbac, L,aguna de, 201 
 
 Bnloiipcten, l.'l? 
 
 Bones, in sculpture, 67, 73 
 
 Bowditch, Charles P., 8 
 
 Bow-string guard, 132 
 
 Bows and arrows, Lacantun Indian, 28, 32; figured 
 
 and described, 35-37, 207 
 Bows and arrows, in sculpture, 88, 118, 132, 175, 180 
 
 Box of felicities, 48 
 Bracket.^ in niches, 158 
 
 Buddha, suggested by images of gods seated cross- 
 legged, 162 
 Budsilha, exploration, 89-93 
 Burial chambers, Yaxchilan, 122, 133, Hi7 
 
210 
 
 IXDEX. 
 
 Burial urns, 179, 18.1 
 Butterflies, 92, 96, 99, 112 
 Buttr(!sseg. 141, 184 
 
 Cabiiiil. Cazique of Dolores, 107 
 Ciilialjon, 106 
 Caiinan lA'/in), 127 
 Calaliasli drinking vessel, 27 
 Calaliaslies, 27, 207 
 
 CaIpao-sha]iea hat, .sfuljjtiireil, IIG, 132, 163-165 
 
 Campeche, 83 
 
 Caudelaria, Rio de la, 137 
 
 Canizan, 105, 1U6 
 
 Caoba tree, 25, 174 
 
 Caoutchouc {hiilc), 198 
 
 Capsicum, 96 
 
 C;iptive or prisoner, sculptured, 48, 50, 51, 56, 61, 68, 
 
 71, 74, 87, 94. 117, 142, 179, iSl, 182 
 Carillo, Eucarn;ici6ii, JOS, 127, 174 
 Carmeu, 40, 83 
 Carmeu, Laguua del, 182 
 
 Casa, principal, Pieilras Negras, 75; El Cayo, 84; 
 El Chile, 96 
 
 Cave with rude stone altar and human face ou stalactite, 
 202 
 
 Caves, natural, 42, 4-'i, 54 
 
 Caymans (alligators), 199, 202 
 
 Ciiyuco (native boat), 9, 17, 25, 96, 109, 112, 202 
 
 Ceiba tree, 14, 37, 42, 54, 99 
 
 Cemeuted floor, 15 
 
 Ceremony, Indian, 162 
 
 Cctiiia, Joaquin, 208 
 
 Chacaniax River, 9, 17-19 
 
 Chain of linman heads, 180 
 
 Cliampa (see I'alni-leaf hut) 
 
 Champa dc Ran Pedro, 18 
 
 Chancala River, 23 
 
 Chancala, ruins of, 13-17 
 
 Chankin, Lacantnn Indian, 32, 33 
 
 Chanvin, Lacautun Indian, 207, 208 
 
 Chtirnay, Desire, 108 
 
 Chest of good fortune, 48, 122, 128, 143, 145, 146, IfiS, 
 182 
 
 Chiapas, State of, 108, 203 {notn) 
 
 Chichan-petha Lake, 39 
 
 Cliichea-Itza, 173 
 
 Chicle, as chewing-gum, 100 
 
 Chicozapote, El, explorations, 100-104 
 
 Chicozapote wood, 35, 98 
 
 Chinese oi' Mongolian eyes in sculpture, 162 
 
 Cliinikiha', I'nins of, 10-13 
 
 Cliixoy Kiver, 108, 204 
 
 Cbo(.*i>ni;i, 22, 23, 26, 39 
 
 Chronological glyph, 148 
 
 Chronological representation of faces, 59 
 
 Circle and cross, 206 
 
 Cirrlc^. rniirrutrl.'. 20,") 
 
 (■i(viil;u' Ali:u- (see Altars) 
 
 t'iiTiilai- drsii;n carved on rock, 42 
 
 Circular stone table with glyplis, 64 
 
 Closed hand, in sculpture, 50, 63 
 
 Cocoa- bean, s, in sculpture, 62, 122 
 
 Color, ill mural painting, 12, 16, 174, 184; in rock 
 painting, 30; on sculptures, 46-75, 95, 102, 103, 
 US, 125, 131, 133, 141, 142, 144, 149, 151, 153. 
 156, 159, 160, 163-166, 177, 188; on jiottery 
 vessels, 163 
 
 Column, of stalactite, with carving and gly])hs, 158 
 
 (see Stalactite) 
 Column, sacrificial, 66, 68, 70 
 Column, with lattice -work design, 126 
 Comalcalco, 17 
 Comniehen, nest of, 90 
 Community-houses, 91, 122 
 Conch-shells, 33, 34 
 
 Cone-shaped standard, with little idol, 116, 186 
 Convcutionalisni, 62, 63, 67-72. 103. 152, 156, 158 
 Cooking utensils, Lacantnn Indians, 25-28, 35, 207 
 Copal, burning of. 28, 163, 201 
 Corn, 28 
 Cortez, 105, 106 
 
 Costnjiie, Lacantnn Indians, 32, 35, 207 
 
 Costume, in sculpture (see Dress aud ornament) 
 
 Cotton ch>th, weaving of, 35 
 
 Couches, stone, 139 
 
 Cross, head-dress in form of, 56 
 
 Cross, Ketsal double, 116, 164 
 
 Cross, Maltese, 46 
 
 Cross or wheel design, 75, 85, 94, 206 
 Cross (see St. Andrews) 
 Cross, witli Trogon pavonius attaclied, 164 
 Cross-bones, 142, 144 
 
 Crosses, in hailds of Maya-Toltee priests, 116, 164 
 Cross-legged fashion of sitting (in sculpture), 48, 57, 
 
 58, 67, 72, 87, 94, 101, 103, 128, 135, 143, 159, 
 
 161, 162, 172. 176 
 Cross-legged figure in niche, 58, 63, 67, 161. 162 
 Cruciform head-dress, 150 
 Cruciform medallion, 61 
 
 Cruciform ornaments, in sculpture, 136; in architec- 
 ture, 173 
 Cueva de la Cabeza, 202 
 Cvlimler, or roll of jiaper, in sculpture, 103 
 
 Dance of the toucan, 162 
 Death, suggesteii or syniboli^tcd, fi7_ 73, 102 
 Death-mask, 56, 1 16, 132, 170, 186 
 Death's-head, 50, 65, 127, 148, 183, 188 
 Deer, skulls of, 28 
 
 Deity, beneficent, on stclie, 48, 122, 126. 128, 129. 143, 
 
 145, 168, 182 
 Deity side ami Human side of stelai. 126 
 Diaz, Bernal, 106 
 Dogs, in Indian settlement, 37 
 Dolores, Lacantnn town, 106-108 
 Dinninican monks, 108 
 i imilile crosses. 115, 1 16, 164 
 IlDuhle temple, 96-98 
 
 Dress anil ornament of human figures, in sculpture, 
 21.46-75,88, 94, 101-104, 116, 119, 128, 132, 
 13,>, 142, 144, 146, 148, 152, 161-168, 175-188 
 
 Dress of Lacantnn Itulians, 32, 35, 207 
 
 Drink, native, 27, 38, 162 
 
 Ducks, native, 201 
 
INDEX. 
 
 211 
 
 Ear oruameuts, in sculpture, 5S, fil, 63, 67, 6S, 70, 7-3, 
 
 74, 94, 103, }3-2, 152, lti2 
 Kav-iings, Lacautun Indians, 35 
 Kilitiirial Note, 7 
 
 Eight Stelai, Terrace of, I'iedras Negvas, 44 
 
 EI Cayo, exploration, 83-8'J 
 
 El Chioozapote, exploration, 100-104 
 
 El Chile, exploration, 9'^-98 
 
 El Cliorro, lumlier-camp, 14 
 
 El Ciavo, nionteria, 10, 22, 23 
 
 El Kspejiti.), 2-1 
 
 El Hollo, 41 
 
 KI Paso Real, 40 
 
 E/ Pilar, Yaxfliilaii, 105 
 
 El Kantlal chifo, rapids, 112 
 
 E] Salto de Af^aa, 21 
 
 El Templofie la Ribera, Yaxcliihm, 122 
 
 Embaukmeiits, Yaxchilan, 114, 115 
 
 Espuelas, 29 
 
 Excavations, San Lorenzo, 204 
 Eyes, in Yaxchilan sculpture, 179 
 
 Farades, typical, S6, 123, 158 
 
 Face-niasks. in sculpture, CO, 62, 73, 12S, 132, 161, 163, 
 172 
 
 Faller, Felix, 83 
 
 Fan of feathers, in sculpture, 142, 161, 191 
 Feathered round flower (rayless star), 177 
 Feathers, worn by Lacantun Indians, 35 
 F'iliug of teeth, 61 
 
 Fires, as species of vandalism, 185, 189, 206 
 
 Fish, native, 39, 99, 110, 199, 201, 202 
 
 F'ish, sculptured, 72, 117 
 
 Fish, sufigestive of Mirthn/ecutli, 102 
 
 Flahellum of {.'reen feathers, 63 
 
 Flint arrow-points, 28, 36-38 
 
 Flint Hakes chipped by Indians, 37, 38 
 
 Flint lances, 204 
 
 Fliiit-tipj)ed lance, in sculpture, 179 
 
 Flour, cemented, 15 
 
 Flor de pato, 98 
 
 Flores (Petcii-Itza), 40 
 
 Flower pattern, 132 
 
 Flowers, cunvfiitinnalized, 152 
 
 Flowers, in iiuiriil painting, 174 
 
 Flnwns ill s.-ul]ilurp, 164, 165. 167, 181, 182 
 
 Food of l.:ir;inriin liidians, 33, 113 
 
 Footprints, incised, 67 
 
 Fonr-lcavod clover, 48 
 
 F'rench t.iovcrnnient, Lorillard expedition. lOS 
 Frieze, 16, 20, 101, 118, 123, 124, 138, 140, 154, 156, 158, 
 170, 173, 178, 187 
 
 Galeron or hut, 99 
 Gnome, 148 
 
 Gods sittiTif; cross-legs^ed in niches, 63, 67, 72, 161 ; on 
 
 throiic, 48 
 Gonzali, Don Luis, 17, 18 
 Gordillo, Porfirio, 90, 93, 96 
 Gourd bee-hive, 28 
 Gourds, as household utensils, 28, 39 
 Great Acropolis, 114, 139, 157 
 
 Green stone axes, 204 
 
 Green stone beads, in sculpture, 95, 103 
 
 Grew, Edward S., 8 
 
 Grinding-stone {metlatl), 27 
 
 Grotesque animal head, 70 
 
 Grotesque faces, sculptured, 46, 49, 58, 88, 128, 129, 
 132, 142-146, 152, 165, 172, 175, 190; painted 
 on rock, ,30 
 
 Grotesque scroll-work, 88 
 
 Guatcni;il;\, 11(7, 204 
 
 Gn;itrnialii and Mexico, boundary line between, 41, 42 
 ("iuayacau tret_'s, -HM 
 Gnayacnn wood, for bows, 35 
 Guillen, Mr., 24 
 Gntter-tiles of baked clay, 18 
 
 Ilabin tree, 178 
 
 Halachvinic (warrior chieftain), 55, 59, 71, 119. 142, 
 
 180 {see also Warrior)' 
 Hammocks of agave, Lacaiitun Indians, 35, 207 
 Hand, closed, 50, 63 
 
 Head-dress in sculpture: turban-like, 47, 48; omega- 
 shaped, 50, 68, 172 ; circular, 55, 56 ; cruciform, 
 56; tiger, 61, 63; serpent, 67, 132. 162, 165: 
 globular, 71 ; turtle, 85 ; scroll-work, 145 ; 
 gnome, 148; flower, 152; priest's hat, 163, 164; 
 vegetable, 177; feather, etc., 186, 187, 191 
 
 Head-dress of stuffed bird, Lacantun Indian, 162 
 
 Heads, human {see Human heads) 
 
 Heads of bees, as ornaments, 122, 128 
 
 Helicouia, 13 
 
 Hemenway, Augustus, 8 
 
 Herb doctor, 208 
 
 Hierogly]>hic .Stairway, Yaxchilan, 122 
 
 Hieroglyphs illustrated in text (see List of Illustvationg) 
 
 Hieroglyphs, incised on thighs of captives, 61, 117, 
 
 142 ; on sword of captive, 51 
 Hieroglyphs, in "second manner of writing," 57, 58, 
 
 63, 67, 143, 172 
 High priest (see Ahaucan) 
 H'men (magician), 101, 177 
 HoUo, EI, 41 
 Honey cord, 143 
 Hnjietha Lake, 39 
 Horn of plenty, 168, 169 
 Huehnetenanco, 106, 107 
 Hunnm and Deity sides of stelaj, 126 
 Human corpse, in sculpture, 159 
 Human face, grotesque, 88, 128, 132, 142-140, 152 
 Human figure, carved on rock, 42, 204; incised on 
 
 wall, 20, 21 ; painted on rock, 30 ; sculptured 
 
 on altar, 45 (see also Stelaj and Lintels) 
 Hum.in foot, painted, 30, 31 
 
 Human band, painted, 30, 31, 160; sculptured, 50, 63 
 
 Human hewls carved on rock, 43 ; in serpent's jaws. 
 50; in metlalHon, 185; in stucco, 118; as pen- 
 dants, 119; on incense vessels, 162; chain of, 
 180; little, 50, .58, 73, 74, 86, 119, et seq. (sue 
 also Stelie and Lintels) 
 
 Human heads, fantastic, sculptured, 63, 135, 140 
 
 Human profile, fantastic, 186 
 
 Human skulls, in sculpture, 127, 159 
 
212 
 
 IlS^DEX. 
 
 Hiimpefcskin trees, 203 
 
 Huts of Lacantuu Indians, 35, 207 
 
 I'iols, jadeite, 92 ; stoiie, 88, 206, 207 
 
 Idols, little images of, in sculpture, 51, 71, 116, 117, 
 
 132, 134, 142, 103, 1G5, 166, et seg. 
 Ifjuana, 92 
 
 Implements, wooden, for weaving cloth, 35 
 
 Incense vessesl, Lacaiituii Indians, 28,35, 64, 90, 91, 
 
 120, 123, 136, 162, 163, 200, 207, 208 
 Ini'iscil wvirk. 6, 11, 12, 20, 46, 73-75, 85, 94, et seq. 
 Iiici-i'il >.-i-.,|l-woi'k on pottery vessels, 90 
 Indian >rl I li'mt'iit, 25 
 
 trails. 24-26 
 Indians {sf} Laraiitnn) 
 
 Indo-Turaniivu ropresontations of Bnddlia, 162 
 
 Initial glyphs, 56, 57. 59, 128. 150, 175, 191 
 
 Interiors, structure, 19, 137 ; 33, 160; 39, 171 ; 40, 174 
 
 Irigoyen, Cayetano, 23 
 
 Istatlau, 106 
 
 Itstli, 103 
 
 Izancanac. 105, 106 
 
 Jadeite, 84 
 Jadeite image, 92 
 
 Jimenez, Jose Maria, 112, 113, 127, 199 
 Juarros, 105 
 
 Katun (shortened form of Kabtuu), 62 
 Ketsal birds, 164, 165 
 Ketsal double cross, 116, 164 
 Ketsal feathers, 86 
 
 Ketsalkoail, 46, 47, 58, 116, 122, 157, 160, IGl, 163, 
 207 
 
 Knife, sacrificial, 152, 167, 187 
 Kolier, German, 18, 19 
 Komraeheu nest, 31 
 
 La Amargura, mouteria, 90 
 
 La Casa Grande, Piedras Negraa, 52 
 
 La Culebra, ferry, 23 
 
 La Cuua, mouteria, 14 
 
 La Esperauza, monteria, 204 
 
 La Estrella, monteria, 208 
 
 La Ilusion, monteria, 23 
 
 La Mar, brook, 90 
 
 La Mar, explorations, 93-96 
 
 La Xueva Lsjieranxa, monteria, 17 
 
 La Plaznela de las Cnevas, 42 
 
 La Reforma, 9, 10, 22 
 
 La Roca de los Sacrificios, 42 
 
 Labyrinth (Structure 19, Vllxchilan), 110, 137 
 
 Lacanlm liiver, 18, 208 
 
 Lacantun Indians, little known, 7; remnants of, 9; 
 trail nf, settlement of, 25; dogs of, 26, 37; 
 huts nf. household utensils, 27 ; weapon,i, orna- 
 ments, baskets, incense vessels, 28 ; rock paint- 
 ings, 30; Chaukin and Max, 32, 33 ; food, 33; 
 dress and ornaments, 35 ; hammocks, 35 ; weav- 
 ing implements, 35 ; bows and arrows, figured 
 and described, 35-37 ; chipping flint arrow- 
 points, 07 ; domestic animals, 37; national bev- 
 
 erage, 38 ; prayers, 38 ; diseases, 38 ; fish as 
 food, 39 : other mention of, 88, 90, 91, 106, 107, 
 162, 200-208 
 
 Lacantun River, 197, 203-207 
 
 Laguua de Bolonchnc, 192 
 
 Lake Petiia, 7, 9, 22, 25, 29, 31 
 
 Lamberto de La Cruz, 112 
 
 Lances, flint, 204 
 
 Lances, in sculpture, 51. 55, 56, 59, 61, 71, 74, 117, 
 
 128, 141, 144, 146, 148, 172, 179, 181, 182 
 Las Tiniehlas, mouteria, 23 
 Latin Cross, 173 
 Lavalle, Lottin de, 189 
 Le'chc' Brook, 90 
 
 Leggings of tiger-skin, in sculpture, 57 
 
 Lesser Acropolis, Yaxchilan, 114, 139, 183 
 
 L^-tse, tree, 90 
 
 Lintels, stone, Chinikiha : 11 
 
 Lintels, stoue. El Cayo: 85-89 
 
 Lintels, stone. El Chicoazapote : 100-103 
 
 Lintels, stone. El Chile ; 97 
 
 Lintels, stone. La Mar; 94 
 
 Lintels, stone, Piedras Negras : 1, GO ; 2, 59 ; 4, 71 ; 5, 
 
 55, 71 ; S, 75; witliout sciilptiire, G8 
 Lintels, stoue, Yaxchilan : 1, 163; 2, 164; 3, 16.5; 4 
 
 and 4b, 1G7; 5, 116; 6, 116; 7, 117; 
 
 8, 117; 9, 118; 10, 120; 11, 120; 
 
 12, 141; 13, 142; 14, 142; 15, 16, 
 
 17 (sawed oH), 146; 18, 149; 19, 149; 
 
 20, 150 ; 21, 150; 22, 150; 23, 150; 
 
 24, 151 ; 25, 1.52; 26, 152 ; 27, 153; 
 
 28, 153 ; 29, 130; 30, 130; 31, 131; 
 
 32, 131 ; 33, !;J2; 34, 133 ; 35, 133; 
 
 36, 134 ; 37, 134 ; 38, 135 ; 39, 135 ; 
 
 40, 135; 41,' 185; 42, 185; 43, 185; 
 
 44, 187; 45, 187; 46, 188; list of. 
 
 194; witliout sculpture, 156, 157 
 Lintels, woodeu, Chancala, 15 
 List of buildings and sculptures, Yaxcliilan, 1 14 
 List of Illustrations, lii 
 List of Stela3 and Lintels, Yaxchilan, 193 
 Lists of Plates, 5, 81, 82 
 Lizards, 92 
 Lorillard City, 104 
 Lorillaril expedition, 108 
 Los CallejoMes, 41 
 Los Tzendaks, 9, 10 
 Lowell, Judge Francis C, 8 
 Lowell, Mrs. G. G., 8 
 Lumber camp, Chancala, 14 
 
 McQueen, Mr., 21, 22 
 Magician {h'meu), 101, 177 
 Maize, 26, 29, 113 
 Maize depot, 206 
 
 Maize ears (elotl), as vegetable, 29 
 
 Maler, Teobert, 7, 23 ; his work in C'hichen Itza, 173 
 
 Maltese Crosses, 46 
 
 Man from above or Man from heaven, 162 
 Man with the tiger's paws, 57 
 Mason, Miss Ellen F., 8 
 Masonry, 14, 45 
 
IXDEX. 
 
 213 
 
 Mats or basket-work screens to ilonnvays, 15 
 Maiulslay, Alfred 1'., lOS 
 Max, La^aiituu Indian, 33-35, 38 
 Mfixcal, 33 
 
 Maya architecture, type of, 158 
 Maya art, best period of, 189 
 Maya cities, plan of, 115 
 Maya embroidery, sculpmrcd, 50 
 Maya female figure incised, 21 
 Maya-Lacaiituns, 9, 27-29 (see also Lacantun) 
 Mayas, 137, 171, 200 
 Maya-'J'oltec priests with crosses, 165 
 Miiya-Toltecs, principal god of, 1G2, 165 
 Maya writing, second manner of, 57, 5S, 63, 67, 143, 
 172 
 
 Mazariegos, Rodriguez, 106 
 
 Mejenes, Don Transito, 40, 84, 92, 99 
 
 iMeiiidic (another name for Yaxchilan), 104, 105 
 
 iMi'lliLlI (,;;rl(Mling-stone), 27 
 
 Micl];nilceuili, 102 
 
 Mill-t-ton(?s, Liicantun Indians, 208 
 
 Milpa, 25 
 
 Minerals, 84 
 
 Mistolha River, 21 
 
 Molina, Mr., 11, 40 
 
 Mongolian type, 47 
 
 Monkey, in sculpture, 128, 146 
 
 Monkeys, native, 19, 93, 110 
 
 Monte crecido, tree, 91 
 
 Montecristo, 40 
 
 Mopan, 106 
 
 Mortuary images, fi" 
 
 Mortuary pillars (see SteJas) 
 
 Moulds, Lavalle's mctliod of taking, 189 
 
 Muzo adondailo, 200 
 
 Mozo huiilo, 200, 203 
 
 Mozos, 24 
 
 Mucha, Isidoro, 9 
 
 Mummy, represeuteii in sculpturu, 159 
 Mural painting, 12, 16, 174, 184 
 Mural picture, incised, 20 
 Musical instrument, 162 
 
 Nautsiu-trees, 41 
 
 Naranjo-Gouzoli (name given to ruins}, 18 
 Xaranjo, Rafael, IS 
 Necklaces of seeds, Indian, 33 
 Nemecke, Jose', 18 
 
 Niches, in sculpture ami architecture, 58, 62, 88, 98, 
 
 124, 125, 138, 140, 156, 159, 163, 171, 173, 174 
 Niches, 1-shaped, 138 
 
 Niches with seated figures, 49, 63, 67, 72, 160, 161 
 
 Nickerson, George A., 8 
 
 Nolasco, 106 
 
 Nose oniamenta, 61, 102 
 
 Nose-tablet, 127 
 
 Obelisk or stela, 71 
 OcelotI, 183 
 Ocotl, 23 
 
 Ocotsinco, 26, 106, 107 
 Ogive vaults, 125, 160, 171 
 
 Omega of discs, 36 
 
 Omega-shaped ornament, 50, 51, 70; head-dress, 68, 
 
 172; diadem, 74; beam, 143, 172 
 Orcliids, 29 
 Orientation, 126 
 Orizaba, niotiteria of, 199, 203 
 Ornaments in sculpture {see Dress and Ornament) 
 Ornaments of Lacantun Indians, 35 
 Ortliography adopted by author, 7 
 Otero, Manuel, 204 
 
 Oval stone in hand of sculptured figure, 95, 1S6 
 Ovals as ornaments, 143, 172, 176, 181, 182, 190 
 
 Palace, Clunikiha, 12 
 
 Palace of the Seven Chambers and the Five Sculptured 
 
 Lintels, Yaxchilan, 129 
 Paleiique, 9, 17, 18, 19, 22, 73, 105. 108, 139 
 Palma, D. Emiliauo, 40 
 Palm-leaf huts, 10, 19, 27, 54, 110 
 Palo de tiute. 202 
 Panthers, Xupa, 19 
 Papayos, 26 
 Parker, Miss A. M., 7 
 Parrots, 37 
 Paso de Bolon, 202 
 Paso del Chocolha, 39 
 
 Peabody Museum, Subscription Research Fund, 9 
 Peccaries, skulls of, 28 
 
 Pendants, 48, 61, 117. 144, 146, 152, 161, 167, 172, 179, 
 187 
 
 Pendont ornament of cords with five Imman heads, 119 
 
 ri l-MUU r;^|>. 103, 104 
 
 ]VtMi.-ll/;i (Flnics), 40, 1,06, 192, 202 
 
 Pc-tiia', I'ULiis of, 22-40 
 
 Petticoat (euiii/uus), 132, 142 
 
 Phonetic value of symbols oil sculptures, 102, 10-3 
 
 Photographs by author, 7, 34, 43, 45, 61 
 
 Pickering, Mr. and Mrs. Henry, S 
 
 Picture rocks, 30, 31, 42, 43, 204-206 
 
 Piedras Negras, Maler's explorations, 40-53 ; Museum 
 
 expedition, 53-75 
 Piedras verdes (Yaxchilan), 104 
 Pig, 113 
 
 Pilasters, 173, 174 
 
 Pillars, with gly])iis, Yaxchilan, 129 
 Pillars, square, with glyphs, Piedras Negras, 45 
 Pitch-piiic, in hut, 28 
 Planchoii de las Figuras, 204 
 Plans, figured (see List of Illustrations) 
 Plants and Trees, native, 10, 13, 14, 24-29, 41, 42, 54, 
 90, 91, 96, 98, 99, 110, 174, 178, 185, 202, 204 
 Playground (7), 134 
 Pointed hat, 61 
 Poleva River, 41 
 Pomona, 9 
 Potsol, 33 
 
 Potter's art, high development, Yaxchilan, 121 
 Pottery images, 121 
 
 Pottery vessels of Lacantuns, 18, 25, 27, 28, 64, 88, 
 
 90, 121, 162, 163, 200. 202, 204, 208 
 Potzol, as native drink, 27, 33 
 Presents to Indians, 32, 34, 35, 39, 
 
214 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Priest, sciilptnnul, 72, llli, 132, 142, 152, 16-i, 164, 105, 
 
 167, 176, 1S5-1S8 
 Prisoner, sculptiireLl (see Captive) 
 Pte-ha (Ap;ua circular), 31 
 Pntuam, F. VV., Etiitorial Note, 7, 8 
 Pyramid, truncated, 13; of six terraces, 14; great 
 
 steppeii, 136, 168 
 Pyramidal substructures, crowueti with two or more 
 
 temples, 84 (see also Substructures) 
 Pyramids, sepulchral, Terraces of, 136, 166 
 
 Qaarrifs, 169, 183 
 
 Quiver with bow and arrows, 88, 119, 132, 175, 180 
 
 Kalibit ovnl, 146 
 
 liamuu-tree, 54, 185 
 
 liaucho de Solis, 207 
 
 llattles, band of, 103, 162 
 
 Rattles, conventionalized, 62, 63 
 
 Rayless stars, 144, 152, 165, 177, IS5, 187 
 
 Red Temple on the Shore {Structure 6), Yaxchilan, 122 
 
 Remesal, 105 
 
 Reptile, carved in high relief, 64 
 Reticulated pattern, 152, 165, 186 
 Reyes, Manuel, 195, 202, 203 
 Ribas, Diego de, 106, 107 
 Rio San Pedro (-Limoii), 198 
 Tiites, sacred, 162 
 
 Road from La Reforma to Tzendales, 1 7, 22 
 Rock-carving, 42, 43, 94, 204-206 
 Rock-]iaintingB. 30, 31 
 Romano, firm of, 9, 17 
 
 Koof-conib, 125, 139, 141, 151, 154, 155, 159, 160, 163, 
 
 173, 174, 179, 184 
 Roof-comb of twofold character, 137 
 Roof, horizontal stone, 12 
 
 Rope of Honey or of Sweets (honey cord), 48. 143, 168 
 Route from Tenosique to EI Cayo, 42 
 Ruiiias de Lacanha, 18, 208 
 
 Ruins of Yaxchilau, list of buildings and sculptures, 
 114 
 
 Sacluc, 40 
 
 Sacrifice: human, 58, 61, 63, 65, 87,102, 190; bird, 
 
 21, 140 ; animal, 152, !86 
 Sacrificial Altars (see Altars) 
 Sacrificial column, 66, 68. 70 
 
 Sacrificial gifts, 21, 66, 116, 117, 120, 129, 132, 139, 
 
 142, 162, 163, 167, 201 
 .S.icril!ci:d kiiilV, l.-)2. 167, 187 
 SiUTtliL'iiil iiriusl., 102, 152, 167, 137, ! 8S 
 Sacritici:il rock, Piedras Ncgrns, 42 
 Sacrificial stones, sculptured, Yiixchilan, 138, 15g, 189, 
 
 191 (see Altars) 
 Sacrificial tables, 11, 12, 13 (see Ahars) 
 Sacrificial vessel in temple hut, 208 
 St. Andrew's cross, 21, 75, 85, 128, 144, 145, 165, 168, 
 
 169, 172 
 
 St. Andrew's cross girdle, 176, 186 
 
 Salisbury, Stephen, 8 
 
 San Antonio, suL'ar rancho of, 9, 24 
 
 San Cristobal de las Casas, 108 
 San Lorenzo, explorations, 203-208 
 San Pedro River, 18, 198 
 Saucliez, Luciano, 41 
 Santo Tomas, tiie Spauiafi Apostle, 165 
 Sashes, with death-mask, 132 ; of scales, 142 ; of shell- 
 work, 152; with glyphs, 191 
 Sastun (augur's stone), 176 
 Saw-fish, 1S2 
 
 Saw-toothed [see Serrated) 
 Scale-work, 161 
 
 Sceptre, in sculpture, 49,116,117,1 85 
 Schiniiler, monteria of, 199, 204, 208 
 Screens to doorways, 15 
 Scrolls, doable, 146 
 
 Scroll-work, 12, 16, 30, 4S-50. 58, 63, 72, 95, 124, 128, 
 
 132, 142 et seij. 
 Sculpture, in jadeite, 92 
 Sculptured rocks, 42,43, 205-206 
 Sculptured stone (arch-shaped), 64 
 Sculptures (see Stela^. Liiit(.>ls, etc.) 
 Second Chain i>f St I'licfuri's, "iMxchihin, 154 
 Second niaiiiici' of Maya ^\ riling, 56-58, 63, 143, 172 
 Seeds, necklaces of, 35 
 
 Seibal, .57, 107, 109 
 
 Sepulchral Pyramid on tin; Terrace (Structure 18, 
 
 Yaxchihui), 136 
 Sepulchral Pyramids, Yaxchilan, Terrace of, 166 
 Sepulchral steUt, on picture rock, 204 
 Serpent, native, rare species of, 98 
 
 Serpeut, sculptured, 46, 49, 50, 58, 103, 117, 127, 128, 
 
 133, 135, 143-145, 163-166, 185 
 Serpent-face, conventionalized, 156, 158, 179 
 Serpent-faced heads, 140, 141 
 
 Serpeut-head, 46, 50, 58, 63, 65, 67, 68, 119, 123, 162, 
 207 
 
 Serpent ovals, 143 
 
 Serpent's jaws holding hnman head, 50, 51 
 Serrated lance, 117, 172, 182 
 Serrated tail of alligator, 127 
 Serrenia Mountain, 106 
 
 Shells in sculpture, 50, 51, 56, 62, 74, 152, 165, 166, 
 
 181, 182, 187, 188 
 Shield in sculi)ture, 50, 51, 56, 59, 68, 73, 74, 83, 175 
 Shore Temple (Structure 6, Yaxchilan), 1 10. 122 
 Sib Lake, 39 
 Sihuacolmatl, 175 
 Silbitak Lake, 137 
 Simpalxochitl, Pctha, 29 
 Skulls, ill sculpture, 28, 159 
 Snail siiell.s, 17 
 Snake-skin, 49 
 Solis, Enri(]ue, 206 
 Sootlisaying [iriest. 176 
 South Temple t, Yaxchilan, 170 
 South Temple 11, " 172 
 South Temple III, " 178 
 Spectacle face, 165 
 Spectacle signs, 1 43 
 Spiiler's weh, 136 
 Sjiiiuilcs, 28 
 
 Square altars, Piedras Negras, 65 
 
INDEX. 
 
 215 
 
 Stairways ami stops, U, li). 84, 85, ;)5, 97, 1120, ]:)6, 
 ISe, 147, 166, 172, 173, 191 ; mouumental, 43, 44, 
 156; hieroij,lyphie, 122; painted on rock, 206 
 
 Stalactite, with human lace, 202 
 
 Stalactite column, 154, 158, 168, 179, 183 
 
 Standard, cone-shaped, 186 
 
 Standard-bearer, 186 
 
 Stars, rayless, 144, 152, 1G5, 177, 185, 187 
 
 Stela, Chinikiha, 12 
 
 SteliE, La Mar: 1, 94; 2, 95 
 
 Stclte, El Cayo : 1, 85 ; 2, 87; 3, 87 
 
 Stelie, PiedrasNegras: 1, 46; 2. 46, 4"; 3, 47, 48; 
 
 4, 48; 5, 48, 49 ; 6, 49, 50; 7, 50, 51 ; 8, 51 ; 
 9, 55, 56; 10. 56, 57; 11, 57, 58; 12, 60-62; 
 13, 62; 14-. 62, 6:1; 15 (Iragment), 64; 16, 
 17, 18. 19. 20, 21 (si n]|>tures destroyed), 
 G4; 22, 23, 24 (siiil|ii iiros destroyed), 6G ; 
 25, 66; 26, 67. 68; 27, 28 (sculptures 
 destroyed), 68, 69; 29, 69; 30 {sculpture 
 destroyed), 69 ; 31 (fragment), 70; 32,72; 
 33, 72, 73; 34, 7.*i ; 35, 73, 74; 36 , 74 ; 37 
 (sculpture destroyed), 74 
 
 Stela;, Yivxchilau : 1, 126; 2, 147; 3, 121; 4,143; 5, 
 144; 6, 144; 7, 145 ; 8, 136 ; 9. 168: 10. 171 ; 
 11, 174; 12, 177; 13, 177; 14, 177; 15, 
 179; 16, 179; 17, 180; 18, 180; 19, 181; 
 20, 182 ; see list of, 193 
 
 Stelie, in sculpture, 164 ; ami on painted rock, 206 
 
 Stokes, Jliss Caruliiie P , 8 
 
 Stone beads, in sculpture, 62, 102, 103, 206 
 
 Stoue bench, 15, 155 
 
 Stone burial urns, 179, 183 
 
 Stone couches, 139 
 
 Stune-cutting, art of, 92 
 
 Stone foreshore, 204 
 
 Striug of joys, 122, 128, 145 
 
 Strings of sweets. !45 
 
 Structures, Yaxchilau ; 1, 1 1 r> ; 2, 1 1 8 ; 3, 1 1 9 ; 4, 1 20 ; 
 
 5, 122; 6, 122 ; 7, 125 ; 8, 125 ; 9, 125; 
 10, 129; 11, 130; 12, 133; 13, ];U; 
 14, 134 ; 15, 134 ; 16, 134 ; 17, 135 ; 18, 
 136; 19,137; 20, 1.39 ; 21, 146; 22, 
 148; 23, l.il ; 24, 153; 25, 154; 26, 
 155; 27, 155; 28, 15G; 29, 156; 30, 
 156; 31, 157; 32, 157; 33, 157; 34, 
 166; 35, 158 ; 36. 168; 37, 169; 38, 
 169; 39, 170; 40, 172; 41. 178; 42, 
 184; 43, 186 ; 44, 187; 45, 191; 46, 
 191; 47, 191; 48, 191; 49, 191; 50, 
 192; 51, 192; 52, 192 
 
 Stucco heads, 118, 140 
 
 Stucco images in niidies, 141 
 
 Stucco work, 15, 16, 20, 72, 74, 117, 118, 124, 139, 141, 
 
 l.'>6, 159, 160, 170, 171. 174, 178 
 Subscribers to Fund for liescarcli in Central 
 
 America, 8 
 
 Substructures, 14, 15, 16, 19, 44, 69, 71, 84, 96, 
 
 et seq. 
 Sugar-cane, 26 
 Sugar rancho, 9, 206 
 
 Suppliant, in sculpture, 128, 143-146, 182, 187-189 
 Sword, toothed, 50, 51 
 
 Symbol of prosperity, 62 
 Symbolism, 102, 127, 145, 176, 190 
 
 Tau, 58, 159; inverted, 50, 51, 70, 138 
 
 Teeth, filing of, 61 
 
 Teeth of alligator in necklaces, 28 
 
 Teetli, serpent's, saw-shaped, 63 
 
 Temple, " El Pilar," Yaxchilan, 105 
 
 Temple hut for incense-vessels, 208 
 
 Temple of ICetsaikoatl [33), 157 
 
 Temple of the Ilalachvinic (2), US 
 
 Temple of tlie Tiger's Head (23), 151 
 
 Temples, at La lieforma, 10; Chinikiha, U ; Chan- 
 cala, 14-17 ; Xupa, 19-21 ; Piedras Negras, 
 44-70; El Cayo, 84-89; Budsilha, 91; La 
 Mar, 93; El Chile, 96, 97; Auaite' II, 99; El 
 Chicozapote, 101-104 ; Yaxchilan, 114-197 ; 
 San Lorenzo, 207 
 
 Temples, on picture rock, Sati Lorenzo, 206 
 
 Terapletes, 136, 168 
 
 Tenositjuo, 9, 10, 22, 40, 41, 42, 53, 83 
 
 Terraces, 11, 14, 19, 44, 45, 84, 85, 96, 99, 101, 115, 
 el seg- 
 
 Terra-cotta vessels (see Pottery) 
 Thayer, Nathaniel, 8 
 
 Tiger, in sculpture, 49, 57, 61-63, 110, 132, 151, 176, 
 182 
 
 Tiger-helmet, 116, 167, 182 
 Tiger-niau, 57 
 Tiuieblas, 40 
 Tobacco, 28 
 Toothed vessel, 121 
 Torrneo, Mr., 109 
 Tortillas, 113, 200 
 Tortoise {Ac), 86 
 Toucan, dance of, 162 
 Trail, Indian, 24-26 
 Transverse structure (24), 153 
 Tree-resin, 28 
 
 Trees and plants (see Plants and trees) 
 j Tres Champas, 41 
 ■ Tpes Naciones, 204 
 
 Triangular vaults, 91 (see also Vaulted ceilings) 
 
 Trogon pavoninus, 164 
 
 Troncoso Cilveti y Ca., 23 
 
 Tsapotl resin, 100 
 
 T-shaped structure, 58 
 
 T-shaped windows, 159 
 
 Tunic with cross-bones, 142, 144 
 
 Tunkul (musical instrument), 162 
 
 Turanian origin, suggested, 162 
 
 Turkey feathers, 74 
 
 Tiirkey, sculptured, 50 
 
 Turki.sh fashion of sitting, 47, 57 (see Cross-legged) 
 Turtle, ill sculpture, 86, 99 
 Tztudales, Los, 9 ; road to, 10, 17, 22 
 
 Ursiia, Martin, 106 
 U-shaped ornament, 50, 51, G8, 70 
 Usuraatsintla River, 40, 198, 203 
 Utensils, Lacantun Indians, 25-28, 207 
 
216 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Valentine, Dr., 103 
 Vjileiizuela, firni, 84 
 
 Viiudalisiii, 133, 146, 147, 152, 15S, 160, 161, 163, 174, 
 
 175, 177, 184-189, iJUG 
 Vaulted ceilings, 15, 52, 123, 124, 130, 133, ISS, 141, 
 
 151, 155, 1;)7, IGO, 171, 1S4 
 Velasco, Diaz de, 106 
 Vera Paz, 106 
 
 Villa de Nuestra Seiiora de los Dolores, 106 
 Villagutierre, 105-107 
 Volutes, 50 
 Vultures, native, 201 
 
 Walled-up chamber of Structure 34, 167 
 Wall-ring, stone, 15 
 War, arts of, 1 92 
 Ware, Miss Mary L., B 
 
 Warrior chieftain {Thilnchvinic), sruli>turfd, 50, 51, 55, 
 56, 59, 68, 71, 73, 74, 117, 132, 141, 146, 172, 
 17.'), 179, 181, 182 
 
 Warrior in niche, 88 
 
 Warrior paying homage to chieftain, 183 
 
 Warrior, with arms cut off, 148 
 
 Water-deities, 105, 206 
 
 Waterfalls, 17, 21, 204 
 
 Water- fowl, native, 201 
 
 Water-jars, 27 
 
 Wax, 28 
 
 Weaving implements, 35 
 
 Wesselhoeft, Miss Sclnia, 7 
 
 Wheel design, or St, Andrew's cross, Piedras Negras, 
 75 ; El Cayo, 85 ; La Mar, 94 ; San Lorenzo, 
 205, 206 
 
 Willoughby, C. C, 8 
 
 Wintlows, T-Klia])eil and rectangular, 159 
 
 Woman, in sculpture, 21, 116, 128, 129, 132, 142, 143, 
 
 152. 163, 172, 176, 186 
 Wooiiea beams to temple entrance, 19, 20, 130 
 Wooden iraplenieuts for weaving, 35 
 Wooden lintels, 15 
 Wooden-pointed arrow, 36 
 Wooden spoons, 28 
 
 X-balche', native drink, 162 
 Xibe Wood for bows, 35 
 Xicallariio, 106 
 Xupa, ruins of, 17-22 
 
 Yiixcbe (Maya name for Ceiba), 14 
 
 Yaxcbilan, explorations : Charnay's, 108; Mauilslay's, 
 
 108; Maler's, 109-197 
 Yaxpliilan, uther names for, 104, 105 
 YaxcliiUui River, 198 
 Terba buena, 29 
 Yerbatero or herb doctor. 203 
 
 Yucatan, Tabasun, and I'etlia Indians compared, 27 
 Zapota achras, tree, 100 
 
Memoirs Peabody Museum, Vol. II. 
 
 PLATE WXIV 
 
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Memoirs Peaboiiy Musei'm, \'ol. II. 
 
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Memoirs Pf.abody Musel-.m, \'or.. II. 
 
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>(emuir$ I' 
 
 MEUOTVPE CO., BOSTON. 
 
HELIOTYPE CO., BOSTON. 
 
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Memoirs Pkahody Mi'setm. \'ot.. II. 
 
 PLATE XLIX. 
 
Memoirs Peabouy Musel-m, Vol. II. 
 
 YSXCHILAN 
 
 LiXTEL 7. 
 
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VAxchilan : Lintel lo. 
 
1 
 
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Me:moiks Pkabody Museim. \'ul. 11. 
 
 PLATE LXIII. 
 
MELIOTYPE CO., aOSTON, 
 
1 
 
Memoirs Peabody Musel'm, ^'oL. II. 
 
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Memoirs Peabody Museum, \'oi,. II. 
 
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Memoirs Peabody Museum, Vol. II. 
 
 PLATE LXXVII. 
 
VAXCHILAN : 
 
 Stela 15. 
 
 YSxcuilan: Ai.iar on tkrkace of Strlxiire 44. 
 
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