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MEMOIRS, 
 
 ILLUSTRATIVE OF 
 
 THE LIFE AND WRITINGS 
 
 OF 
 
 JOHN EVELYN, ESQ. F.R.S. 
 
 AUTHOR OF THE " SYLVA," &c. &c. 
 
 COMPRISING HIS DIARY, FROM THE YEAR 1641 TO 1705-6, 
 
 AND A SELECTION OF HIS FAMILIAR LETTERS. 
 TO WHICH IS SUBJOINED, 
 
 %\)t $rttmte Correspondence 
 
 BETWEEN 
 
 KING CHARLES I. AND HIS SECRETARY OF STATE, 
 SIR EDWARD NICHOLAS, 
 
 WHILST HIS MAJESTY WAS IN SCOTLAND, 1641, AND AT OTHER TIMES DURING THE CIVIL WAR ; 
 
 ALSO BETWEEN 
 
 SIR EDWARD HYDE, AFTERWARDS EARL OF CLARENDON, 
 AND SIR RICHARD BROWNE, 
 
 AMBASSADOR TO THE COURT OF FRANCE, IN THE TIME OF KING CHARLES I. AND THE USURPATION. 
 
 THE WHOLE NOW FIRST PUBLISHED FROM THE ORIGINAL MSS. 
 IN TWO VOLUMES. 
 
 Edited by WILLIAM BRAY, Esa. 
 
 FELLOW AND TREASURER OF THE SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES OF LONDON. 
 
 SECOND EDITION.— VOL. I. 
 
 LONDON: PRINTED FOR HENRY COLBURN, CONDUIT STREET; 
 AND SOLD BY JOHN AND ARTHUR ARCH, CORNHILL. 
 
 1819. 
 
Printed by J. Nichols and Son, 
 Red Lion Passage, Fleet-street, London. 
 
TO 
 
 JOHN EVELYN OF WOTTON IN SURREY, ESQ 
 
 SIR, 
 
 The last sheets of this Work, with a Dedication to the late Lady 
 Evelyn, under whose permission it was to be given to the Public, were 
 in the hands of the Printer, when it pleased God to release her from a 
 long and painful illness, which she had borne with the greatest fortitude 
 and resignation to the Divine Will. 
 
 These papers descended, with the estate, from the celebrated John 
 Evelyn, Esq. (a relative of your immediate ancestor), to his great - 
 great-grandson, the late Sir Frederick Evelyn, Bart. This gentleman 
 dying without issue, intrusted the whole to his Lady, whose loss we 
 have now to lament; of whose worth, and of the value of whose friend- 
 ship, I have happily had long knowledge and experience. Alive to the 
 honour of the family, of which she was thus made the representative, 
 she maintained it in every point, and with the most active benevolence ; 
 and her care extended to every part of the property attached to the do- 
 main. Mr. Evelyn had formed in his own mind a plan of what he 
 called an " Elysium JBritannicum," in which the Library and Garden 
 were intended to be the principal objects : could he return and visit 
 this his beloved seat, he would find his idea realized, by the arrange- 
 ment and addition which her Ladyship had made to his library, and 
 by the disposition of the flower-garden and green-house, which she had 
 
IV 
 
 embellished with the most beautiful and curious flowers and plants, 
 both native and exotic. 
 
 In completion and full justification of the confidence thus reposed in 
 her, her Ladyship has returned the estate, with its valuable appendages, 
 to the family, in your person. 
 
 I have, therefore, now to offer these Volumes to you, Sir, with a 
 wish, that you and your posterity may long enjoy the possessions, and 
 continue the line of a Family so much distinguished in many of its 
 branches, for superior worth and eminence. 
 
 I am, Sir, 
 Your most obedient, 
 
 and most humble servant, 
 
 Shere, 2 Jan. 1818. WILLIAM BRAY. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The following pages are taken from the Journal of John Evelyn, 
 Esq. author (amongst many other works) of the celebrated Sylva, a 
 Treatise on Forest Trees, and from which he has often been known by 
 the name of The Sylva Evelyn. The Journal is written by him in a 
 very small, close hand, in a quarto volume containing 700 pages, which 
 commences in 1641, and is continued to the end of 1697, ail d from 
 thence is carried on in a smaller book till within about three weeks of 
 his death, which happened 27 Feb. 1705-6, in the 86th year of his age. 
 
 These books, with numberless other papers in his hand-writing, are 
 in the valuable Library at Wotton, which was chiefly collected by him. 
 Lady Evelyn, the late possessor of that very respectable old Mansion, 
 after much solicitation from many persons, consented to favour the 
 Public with this communication. The last sheets were in the hands of 
 the Printer, when the death of that Lady happened. 
 
 The Editor who has been intrusted with the preparation of the 
 work for the press, is fully diffident of his competence to make a 
 proper selection, and is even aware that many things will be found in 
 its pages which, in the opinion of some, and not injudicious, Critics, 
 
v i PREFACE. 
 
 may appear too unimportant to meet the public eye : but it has been 
 thought that some information, at least some amusement, would be 
 furnished by the publication ; it has been supposed that some curious 
 particulars of persons and transactions would be found in the accompa- 
 nying notes ; and that, though these papers may not be of importance 
 enough to appear in the pages of an Historian of the Kingdom, they 
 may in some particulars set even such an one right ; and, though the 
 notices are short, they may, as to persons, give some hints to 
 Biographers, or at least may gratify the curiosity of those who are 
 inquisitive after the mode in which their ancestors conducted business? 
 or passed their time. It is hoped that such will not be altogether 
 disappointed. 
 
 Thus, when mention is made of great men going after dinner to 
 attend a Council of State, or the business of their particular Offices, or 
 the Bowling Green, or even the Church; of an Hour's Sermon being 
 of a moderate length : of Ladies painting their faces being a novelty ; 
 or of their receiving visits of Gentlemen whilst dressing, after having 
 just risen out of bed ; of the female attendant of a lady of fashion 
 travelling on a pillion behind one of the footmen, and the footmen 
 riding with swords ; such things, in the view above-mentioned, may 
 not be altogether incurious. 
 
 For many Corrections, and many of the Notes, the Editor acknow- 
 ledges, with great pleasure and regard, that he is indebted to James 
 Bindley, Esq. * of Somerset House, a Gentleman who possesses an 
 invaluable Collection of the most rare Books and Pamphlets, and 
 
 * Since the first Edition of this Work, the Editor has to lament the loss of this valuable Friend, 
 who died, in the 81st year of his age, Sept. 11, 1818, just as the printing of this second edition 
 was begun. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 vii 
 
 whose liberality in communications is equal to the ability afforded by 
 such a collection. 
 
 He has also most cheerfully to acknowledge how much he is obliged 
 for many historical notes and elucidations to a literary Gentleman very 
 conversant with English History, whose name he would gladly give, 
 were it not withheld by particular request, and whose research, through 
 upwards of seven hundred contemporary volumes of Manuscripts and 
 Tracts, has doubtless given additional interest to many of the Letters. 
 
 The Editor, finally, returns his best thanks to Mr. Upcott, of the 
 London Institution, for the great and material assistance received from 
 him in this Publication, besides his attention to the superintendance 
 of the Press. 
 
LIST OF PLATES, &c. 
 
 Portrait of John Evelyn, Esq. from the Picture by Sir G. Kneller Frontispiece to Vol. I. 
 
 Exterior View of Wotton Church Vol. I. p. xii. 
 
 Interior View of the same Ibid. 
 
 Dormitory, or Burial-place, of the Evelyn family in Wotton Church Vol. I. p. xxiv. 
 
 Wotton House, in Surrey, in its present state, (folded,) Vol. I. p. 2. 
 
 Portrait of John Evelyn, Esq. by R. Nanteuil Vol. I. p. 245. 
 
 Plan of Deptford, 1623, from an original pen and ink Sketch, with additional Remarks, by 
 
 John Evelyn, Esq. (folded) Vol. I. p. 328. 
 
 Portrait of Mary, wife of John Evelyn, Esq Frontispiece to Vol. II. 
 
 Wotton House, in Surrey, drawn and etched by John Evelyn, Esq. 1653 Vol. II. p. 94. 
 
 Portrait of Sir Edward Nicholas Vol. II. Part II. p. 1 . 
 
 Portrait of Sir Richard Browne, Bart Vol. II. Part II. p. 177. 
 
 Pedigree of the Family of Evelyn To face Vol. I. p. ix. 
 
PEDIGREE OF THE EVELYN FAMILY 
 
 IN THE DIFFERENT BRANCHES. 
 
 ' [ hit G"irge wai on' of the Stl Clrrki in t Imncerv, dod January 19, 1636, Ht Bferley, and buried in Ibe Chancel uf Writ Denn Cburch 22 February f,.ll..nm^ 
 
IX 
 
 MR. EVELYN lived in the busy and important times of King 
 Charles I. Oliver Cromwell, King Charles II. King James II. and 
 King William, and he early accustomed himself to note such things 
 as occurred which he thought worthy of remembrance. He was known 
 to, and had much personal intercourse with, the Kings Charles II. 
 and James II. ; and was in habits of great intimacy with many of the 
 Ministers of those two Monarchs, and with many of the eminent men 
 of those days, as well amongst the Clergy as the Laity. Foreigners 
 distinguished for learning or arts, who came to England, did not leave 
 it without visiting him. 
 
 In the first edition of the Biograjpliia Britannica in folio, Dr. Camp- 
 bell has a long article relating to this gentleman. Dr. Hunter, in his 
 edition of the Sylva in 177°", has copied great part of what Dr. 
 Campbell had written. Dr. Kippis added several particulars in the 
 second edition of the Biograpkia in 1793. xMr. Chalmers has added 
 some information in his Biographical Dictionary, in 8vo. (1816); but 
 the following pages will produce farther particulars of this eminent 
 man. They will shew that he did not travel merely to count steeples, 
 as he expresses himself in one of his letters : they will develope his 
 private character as being of the most amiable kind. With a strong- 
 predilection for monarchy, with a personal attachment to Kings 
 Charles II. and James II., formed when they resided at Paris, he was 
 yet utterly averse to the arbitrary measures of those Monarchs. 
 
 Strongly and steadily attached to the doctrine and practice of the 
 Church of England, he felt the most liberal sentiments for those who 
 differed from him in opinion. He lived in intimacy with men of all 
 persuasions, nor did he think it necessary to break connexions with 
 any one who had even been induced to desert the Church of England, 
 
 vol. i. b 
 
X 
 
 and embrace the doctrines of that of Rome. In writing to the brother 
 of a gentleman thus circumstanced, in 1659, he expresses himself in 
 this admirable manner : " For the rest, we must comitt to Providence 
 the successe of times and mitigation of proselytical fervours ; having 
 for my owne p r ticular a very great charity for all who sincerely adore 
 the blessed Jesus, our common & deare Saviour, as being full of 
 hope that God (however the p c sent zeale of some, 8c the scandals taken 
 by others at the instant [present] affliction of the Church of England 
 may transport them) will at last compassionate our infirmities, clarifie 
 our judgments, 8c make abatement for our ignorances, superstructures, 
 passions, & errours of corrupt tymes 8c interests, of which the Romish 
 persuasion can no way acquit herself, whatever the present prosperity 
 8c secular polity may pretend. But God will make all things manifest 
 in his own tyme, onely let us possess ourselves in patience 8c charity. 
 This will cover a multitude of imperfections." 
 
 He speaks with great moderation of the Roman Catholics in general, 
 admitting that some of the Laws enacted against them might be miti- 
 gated ; but of the Jesuits he had the very worst opinion, consider- 
 ing them as a most dangerous Society, and the principal authors of 
 the misfortunes which befell King James II., and the horrible perse- 
 cutions of the Protestants in France and Savoy. 
 
 He must have conducted himself with uncommon prudence and dis- 
 cretion, for he had personal friends in the Court of Cromwell, at the 
 same time that he was corresponding with his father-in-law Sir Richard 
 Browne, the Ambassador of King Charles II. at Paris; and at the 
 same period that he paid his Court to the King, he maintained his 
 intimacy with a disgraced Minister. 
 
 In his travels he made acquaintance not only with men eminent for 
 learning, but with men ingenious in every art and profession. 
 
 His manners we may presume to have been of the most agreeable 
 kind, for his company was sought by the greatest men, not merely by 
 inviting him to their own tables, but by their repeated visits to him at 
 his own house ; and this was equally the case with regard to the ladies, 
 of many of whom he speaks in the highest style of admiration, affec- 
 tion, and respect. He was master of the French, Italian, and Spanish 
 
XI 
 
 languages. That he had read a great deal is manifest, but at what 
 time he found opportunities for study, it does not seem easy to say ; he 
 acknowledges himself to have been idle while at Oxford ; and when on 
 his travels he had little time for reading, except when he stayed about 
 nineteen weeks in France, and at Padua, where he was likewise 
 stationary for some time. At Rome he remained a considerable time ; 
 but whilst there he was so continually engaged in viewing the great 
 abundance of interesting objects to be seen in that City, that he could 
 have found little leisure for reading. When resident in England, 
 he was so much occupied in the business of his numerous offices, in 
 paying visits, in receiving company at home, and in examining what- 
 ever was deemed worthy of curiosity or of scientific observation, that it 
 is astonishing to think how he found the opportunity to compose the 
 numerous books which he published, and the much greater number of 
 papers, on almost every subject, which still remain in manuscript*; to 
 say nothing of the very extensive and voluminous Correspondence which 
 he appears to have carried on during the period of his long life, with 
 men of the greatest eminence in Church and State, and the most distin- 
 guished for learning, both Englishmen and Foreigners. In this cor- 
 respondence he does not seem to have made use of an amanuensis, and 
 he has left transcripts in his own hand of great numbers of Letters both 
 received and sent. He observes, indeed, in one of these, that he seldom 
 went to bed before 12, or closed his eyes before 1 o'clock. 
 
 He was happy in a wife of congenial dispositions with his own, of 
 an enlightened mind, who had read much, was skilled in etching and 
 painting, yet attentive to the domestic concerns of her household, and 
 a most affectionate mother. Of her personal beauty an idea may be 
 formed from the print accompanying this Work, engraved from a most 
 exquisite drawing in pencil by that celebrated French artist Nanteuil, 
 in 1650. In the Appendix is given a character of her by the Rev. 
 Dr. Bohun, who had the best opportunity of being acquainted with 
 it, from having resided in Mr. Evelyn's house for a considerable time 
 as tutor to their son. A few of her letters are also given, to prove 
 the truth of what the Doctor says of them. 
 
 * Amongst these is a Bible bound in 3 volumes, the pages filled with notes. 
 
xii 
 
 So many particulars of Mr. Evelyn have been given in the Biogra- 
 phia Britannica *, and in Mr. Chalmers's valuable memoir in the 
 Biographical Dictionary, that it is unnecessary to repeat them here ; 
 but some circumstances have been there omitted, and others, which are 
 there mentioned, admit of elucidation or addition, and such it is pro- 
 posed to notice here, in addition to the foregoing personal sketch. 
 
 His grandfather, George, was not the first of the family who settled 
 in Surrey; John, father of this George, was of Kingston in 1520, 
 and married a daughter of David Vincent, Esq. Lord of the Manor of 
 Long Ditton, near Kingston, which afterwards came into the hands 
 of George, who there carried on the manufacture of gunpowder. He 
 purchased very considerable estates in Surrey, and three of his sons 
 became heads of three families, viz. Thomas his eldest son, at Long 
 Ditton ; John at Godstone, and Richard at Wotton. Each of these 
 three families had the title of Baronet conferred on them at different 
 times, viz. at Godstone in 1660, Long Ditton in 1683^ and Wotton 
 in 1713. 
 
 The manufacture of gunpowder was carried on at Godstone as well 
 as at Long Ditton, but it does not appear that there ever was any mill 
 at Wotton, or that the purchase of that place was made with such a 
 view. Nor does it appear from the words quoted in the "Biographia" 
 that Mr. Evelyn's grandfather planted the timber, with which Wotton 
 was, and always has been, so well stored. The soil produces it natu- 
 rally, and it has at all times been carefully preserved, besides what has 
 been planted, furnishing abundance for cutting at proper seasons. 
 
 It may be not altogether incurious to observe, that though Mr. 
 Evelyn's father was a man of very considerable fortune, the first rudi- 
 ments of this son's learning were acquired from the village school- 
 master over the porch of Wotton Church. Of his progress at another 
 school, and at college, he himself speaks with great humility; nor did 
 he add much to his stock of knowledge whilst he resided in the Middle 
 Temple, to which his father sent him, with intention that he should 
 apply to what he calls " an impolished study ;" which he says he never 
 liked. More will be said of this in a subsequent page. 
 
 * Second Edition, 1793, vol. V. 
 
INTERIOR ©F W0TT0I CHURCH, SURRY. 
 
Xlll 
 
 The " Biographia' does not notice his tour in France, Flanders, and 
 Holland, in 1641, when he made a short campaign as a Volunteer in 
 an English Regiment then in service in Flanders. 
 
 Nor does it notice his going with intent to have joined King- 
 Charles I. at Brentford ; hut after the battle there he desisted, consi- 
 dering that his brother's, as well as his own estates, were so near 
 London as to be fully in the power of the Parliament. In this dan- 
 gerous conjuncture he asked and obtained the King's leave to travel. 
 Of these Travels, and the observations he made therein, an account is 
 given in the Diary. 
 
 The public troubles coming on before he had engaged in any settled 
 plan for his future life, it appears that he had thoughts of living in 
 the most private manner, and that, with his brother's permission, he 
 had even begun to prepare a place* for retirement at Wotton. Nor did 
 he afterwards wholly abandon this intention, if the plan of a College 
 which he sent to Mr. Boyle in 1659, was really formed on a serious 
 idea. The scheme of this is given at length in the " Biogvaphia" and 
 in Dr. Hunter's Edition of the " Sylva" in ; but it may be observed 
 
 that he proposes it should not be more than 25 miles from London. 
 
 His answer to Sir George Mackenzie's panegyric on Solitude, in 
 which Mr. Evelyn takes the opposite part, and urges the preference to 
 which public employment and an active life is entitled, might be sup- 
 posed a playful essay of one who, for the sake of argument, would con- 
 trovert another's position, though in reality agreeing with his own 
 opinion, if we think him serious in two letters to Mr. Abr. Cowley, 
 dated 12 March and 24 Aug. 1666, in the former of which he writes : 
 " You had reason to be astonished at the presumption, not to name it 
 affront, that I, who have so highly celebrated Recesse, and envied it 
 in others, should become an advocate for the Enemie, which of all 
 others it abhors and flies from. I conjure you to believe that I am still 
 of the same mind, and that there is no person alive who dos more 
 honor and breathe after the life and repose you so happily cultivate and 
 advance by your example ; but, as those who prays'd Dirt, a Flea, and 
 the Gowte, so have I Public Employment in that trifling essay, and 
 that in so weake a style compared with my Antagonist's, as by that 
 
XIV 
 
 alone it will appeare I neither was nor could be serious, and I hope 
 you believe I speake my very soule to you, 
 
 " Sunt enim Musis sua ludicra, mista Camoenis 
 Otia sunt " 
 
 In the other he says, " I pronounce it to you from my heart as oft 
 as I consider it, that I look on your fruitions with unexpressible emu- 
 lation, and should think myself more happy than Crowned heads, were 
 I, as you, the arbiter of mine own life, and could break from those 
 gilded toys to taste your well-described joys with such a Wife and such 
 a Friend, whose conversation exceed all that the mistaken world calls 
 happiness." But, in truth, his mind was too active to admit of solitude, 
 however desirable it might at some times appear to him in Theory. 
 
 After he had settled at Deptford, which was in the time of Crom- 
 well, he kept up a constant correspondence with Sir Richard Browne 
 (his father-in-law) the King's Ambassador at Paris ; and though his 
 connection must have been known, it does not appear that he met with 
 any interruption from the Government here. Indeed, though he re- 
 mained a decided Royalist, he managed so well as to have intimate 
 friends amongst those nearly connected with Cromwell ; and to this we 
 may attribute his being able to avoid taking the Covenant, which he 
 says he never did take. In 1659 he published " An Apology for the 
 Royal Party," and soon after he printed a paper which was of great 
 service to the King, entitled " The late News or Message from Brus- 
 sells unmasked," which was a pamphlet designed to represent the King 
 in the worst light. 
 
 On the Restoration we find him very frequently at Court, and he 
 became engaged in many public employments, still attending to his 
 studies and literary pursuits. Amongst these is particularly to be 
 mentioned the Royal Society, in the establishment and conduct of 
 which he took a very active part. He procured Mr. Howard's library 
 to be given to them ; and in 1667 the Arundelian Marbles to the Uni- 
 versity of Oxford. 
 
 His first appointment to a public office was in 1662, as a Commis- 
 sioner for reforming the buildings, ways, streets and incumbrances, and 
 regulating Hackney coaches in London. In the same year he sat as a 
 
XV 
 
 Commissioner on an enquiry into the conduct of the Lord Mayor, &c. 
 concerning 1 Sir Thomas Gresham's charities. In 166*4 he was in a 
 Commission for regulating the Mint ; and in the same year he was 
 appointed one of the Commissioners for the care of the Sick and 
 Wounded in the Dutch War ; and was continued in the same employ- 
 ment in the second War with that Country. 
 
 He was one of the Commissioners for the repair of St. Paul's Cathe- 
 dral shortly before it was burnt in 1666. 
 
 In that year he was in a Commission for regulating the farming and 
 making Saltpetre. 
 
 In 167 1 ne was made a Commissioner of Plantations on the establish- 
 ment of the Board, to which the Council of Trade was added in 16/2. 
 
 In 1685 he was one of the Commissioners of the Privy Seal during 
 the absence of the Earl of Clarendon (who held that office), on his 
 going Lord Lieutenant to Ireland. 
 
 On the foundation of Greenwich Hospital in 1695, he was one of 
 the Commissioners ; and on 30 June 1696, he laid the first stone of 
 that building. He was appointed Treasurer with a salary of 200Z. a 
 year, but he says it was a long time before he received any part of it. 
 
 When the Czar of Muscovy came to England in 1698, he was de- 
 sirous of having the use of Sayes Court, as being near the King's 
 Dock-yard at Deptford, where that Monarch proposed instructing 
 himself in the art of Ship-building. During his stay he did so much 
 damage, that Mr. Evelyn had an allowance of ^.150 for it. He par- 
 ticularly regrets the mischief done to his famous holly hedge, which 
 might have been thought beyond the reach of damage*. 
 
 Oct. 1699, his elder brother George Evelyn dying without male 
 issue, aged eighty-three, he succeeded to the paternal estate ; and in 
 May following he quitted Sayes Court and weut to Wotton, where he 
 passed the remainder of his life, except going occasionally to London, 
 where he had a house. 
 
 In the great storm in 1703 he mentions, in his last edition of the 
 Sylva, that above 1000 trees were blown down in sight of his house. 
 
 * It is said that one of Czar Peter's favourite recreations was to demolish the hedges by riding 
 through them in a wheelbarrow. 
 
XVI 
 
 He died at his house in London, 27 Feb. 1705-6, in the eighty-sixth 
 year of his age, and was buried at Wotton. His Lady survived him 
 nearly three years, dying 9 Feb. ] 708-9, in her seventy-fourth year, 
 and was buried near him at Wotton. The Inscriptions on their Tombs, 
 and on those of his father and mother, are subjoined. His personal 
 character was truly amiable. In the relative duties of father, husband, 
 and friend, few could exceed him. 
 
 Of Mr. Evelyn's children, one son, who died at the age of five, and 
 one daughter, who died at the age of nineteen, were almost prodigies. 
 The particulars of their extraordinary endowments, and the deep 
 manner in which he was affected by their deaths, may be seen in 
 pp. 309, 588, and cannot be read without exciting the most tender 
 emotions. Their epitaphs are also subjoined. 
 
 One daughter was well and happily settled ; another less happily, 
 but she did not survive her marriage more than a few months. 
 
 The only son who lived to the age of manhood inherited his father's 
 love of learning, and distinguished himself by several publications. 
 
 Mr. Evelyn's employment as a Commissioner of the Sick and Wounded 
 was a very laborious one, and from the nature of it must have been ex- 
 tremely unpleasant. Almost the whole labour was in his department, 
 which included all the Ports between the River Thames and Portsmouth ; 
 he had to travel in all seasons and weathers, by land and by water, in the 
 execution of his office, to which he gave the strictest attention. It was 
 rendered still more unpleasant by the great difficulty which he found 
 in procuring money for support of the Prisoners. In the Library at 
 Wotton are copies of numerous letters to the Lord Treasurer and 
 Officers of State, representing, in the strongest terms, the great distress 
 of the poor men, and of those who had furnished lodging and neces- 
 saries for them. At one time there were such arrears of payment to 
 the victuallers, that on landing additional sick and wounded, they lay 
 some time in the streets, the publicans refusing to receive them, and 
 shutting up their houses. After all this trouble and fatigue he found 
 as great difficulty in getting his accounts settled *. In Jan. 1665-6 he 
 
 * 2 Oct. 16G5, he writes to the Lord Chancellor, Lord Arlington, Sir William Coventry, and 
 Sir Philip Warwick, complaining of want of money for the Prisoners, and praying that whilst he 
 
xvii 
 
 formed a plan for an Infirmary at Chatham, which he sent to Mr. 
 Pepys, to he laid hefore the Admiralty, with his reasons for recom- 
 mending it ; but it does not appear that it was carried into execution. 
 
 His business relating to the repair of St. Paul's (which, however, 
 was very short), that of a Commissioner of Trade and Plantations, and 
 for building Greenwich Hospital, were much better adapted to his in- 
 clination and pursuits. 
 
 As a Commissioner of the Privy Seal in the reign of K. James II. 
 he had a difficult task to perform. He was most steadily attached to 
 the Church of England, and the King required the Seal to be put to 
 many things incompatible with the welfare of that Church. This on 
 some occasions he refused to do, particularly to a Licence to Dr. Obadiah 
 Walker to print Popish books*; and on others absented himself, leav- 
 ing it to his brother Commissioners to act as they thought fit. Such, 
 however, was the King's opinion of him, that he shewed no displeasure 
 on this account. 
 
 With respect to Mr. Evelyn's attempt to bring Col. Morley (who was 
 Cromwell's Lieutenant of the Tower, and who held it at the time im- 
 mediately preceding the Restoration) over to the King's interest, an 
 imperfect account of it is given in the Biographia, partly taken from 
 the additions to Baker's Chronicle, published with a continuation in 
 1696. 
 
 The fact is, that there was great friendship between these gentlemen, 
 and Mr. Evelyn did endeavour to engage the Colonel in the King's 
 interest ; he saw him several times, and put his life into his hands by 
 writing to him on 12 Jan. 1659-60-f*; he did not succeed, and Col. 
 
 and his brother Commissioners adventure their persons, and all that is dear to them, in this 
 uncomfortable service, they may not be exposed to ruin, and to a necessity of abandoning their 
 care ; they have lost their officers and servants by the pestilence, and are hourly environed with 
 the saddest objects of perishing people. — " I have," says he, " 15 places full of sick men, where 
 they put me to unspeakable trouble ; the Magistrates and Justices, who should further us in our 
 exigencies, hindering the people from giving us quarters, jealous of the contagion, and causing 
 them to shut their doors at our approach." 
 
 * Dr. Walker had been a member of the Church of England (see vol. I. p. 617), but had re- 
 nounced it, and turned Papist. 
 
 f A copy of this letter, with a note of Mr. Evelyn's subjoined, is given among the Illustrations 
 at the end of this Volume, p. 665. 
 
 VOL. I. C 
 
XV1111 
 
 Morley was too much his friend to betray him : but so far from the 
 Colonel having settled matters privately with Sir Anthony Ashley 
 Cooper, or General Monk *, as there stated, when the Restoration took 
 place, Col. Morley actually applied to Mr. Evelyn to obtain his pardon, 
 and Mr. Evelyn obtained it accordingly, though, as the latter states, the 
 Colonel was obliged to pay a sum of money. This could not have hap- 
 pened if he had previously joined with General Monk. 
 
 There are some mistakes in the JBiographia as to Mr. Evelyn's 
 Works. Dr. Campbell, who wrote the article in the original edition, 
 took some pains to vindicate Mr, Evelyn's book intitled " Navigation 
 and Commerce, their Original and Progress," from the charge of being 
 an imperfect work, unequal to the expectation excited by the title. But 
 the Doctor, who had not the information which this Journal so amply 
 affords on this subject, was not aware that what was so printed was 
 nothing more than an Introduction to the History of the Dutch War ; 
 a work undertaken by Mr. Evelyn at the express command of King 
 Charles II., and the materials for which were furnished by the Officers 
 of State. The completion of this work, after a considerable progress 
 had been*made in it, was put a stop to by the King himself ; for what 
 reason does not appear ; but perhaps it was found that Mr. Evelyn was 
 inclined to tell too much of the truth concerning a transaction which it 
 will be seen by his Journal he utterly reprobated. His copy of the 
 History, as far as he had proceeded, he put into the hands of his friend 
 Mr. Pepys of the Admiralty, who did not return it, and giving his 
 books and manuscripts to Magdalen College, Cambridge, it was hoped 
 it was there preserved. The Editor went to Cambridge for the purpose 
 of seeing it; was favoured with access to the Library, and with the 
 most obliging personal attendance of the Hon. Mr. Fortescue, one of 
 the Fellows of the College ; but, after a diligent search for several 
 hours, it could not be found. 
 
 Dr. Campbell understood " The Mystery of Jesuitism" to be a single 
 volume, but there were three published in different years. The trans- 
 
 * Colonel Morley's name is scarcely mentioned in the account of General Monk's conduct on thia 
 occasion written by John Price, D. D. (who was sent to him on the King's behalf, and had con- 
 tinual intercourse with him) published in 1680, and reprinted by Baron Maseres in 1815. 
 
XIX 
 
 lation of the second was undertaken by Mr. Evelyn at the express desire 
 of Lord Clarendon and his son, as appears by a letter of Mr. E. to 
 Lord Cornbury, dated 9 February 1664. The third was translated by 
 Dr. Tonge for Mr. Evelyn ; but a fuller statement of this will be found 
 in vol. I. p. 371. 
 
 In giving a list of Mr. Evelyn's Publications, the Authors of the 
 Hiographia say, " As several of these treatises were printed before the 
 Author's return to England, and others without his name, we must de- 
 pend on the general opinion of the world, and the authority of Mr. 
 Wood, for their being his ; yet there is no great reason to suspect a 
 mistake." * They say, " We know nothing of the ' Mundus Muliebris ; 
 or, the Ladies' Dressing Room unlocked,' except that it has had a place 
 in the Catalogue of our Author's Works, from which therefore we have 
 no right to remove it." \ 
 
 There is no doubt of his being the author : under 1685 Mr. Evelvn, 
 in his account of his daughter Mary, says she " put in many pretty sym- 
 bols in the ' Mundus Muliebris,' wherein is an enumeration of the im- 
 mense variety of the modes and ornaments belonging to the sex." 
 
 In a letter to Lord Cornbury, dated 9 February 1664, he speaks of 
 having written a Play. 
 
 The Authors of the Biographia say, " The account which Mr. Boyle 
 received from Mr. Evelyn J of the method used by the Italians for pre- 
 serving snow in pits, is an admirable specimen of that care with which 
 he registered his discoveries, as well as the curiosity which prompted 
 him to enquire into every thing worthy of notice, either natural or arti- 
 ficial, in the countries through which he passed. It is much to be 
 regretted that a work so entertaining and instructive as the History of 
 his Travels would have been, appeared, even to so indefatigable a per- 
 son as he was, a task too laborious for him to undertake ; for we should 
 then have seen clearly, and in a true light, many things in reference to * 
 Italy which are now very indistinctly and partially represented ; and we 
 should also have met with much new matter never touched before, and 
 of which we shall now probably never hear at all." § 
 
 * Biog. Brit. vol. V. 2d edit. p. 611, note E. 
 ; Boyle's Works, vol. II. p. 306. 
 
 t Id. p. 624. note S. 
 § Biog. Brit.vol. V. p. 610, note D. 
 
XX 
 
 What is thus said of Mr. Evelyn's travels is partly supplied in the 
 following volume, but not so fully as could be wished. That he made 
 many observations which will not be found here, appears by the above 
 quotation from Mr. Boyle, and by an account of the manner of making 
 bread in France, which he communicated to Mr. Houghton, a Fellow of 
 the Royal Society, who published it in some papers which he printed 
 weekly in 1681 and following years. It must be presumed that Mr- 
 Evelyn had made many other observations not found in this Journal, 
 and the notes of which have not been discovered amongst his papers. 
 
 From the numerous Authors who have spoken in high terms of this 
 Gentleman, we will insert the two following characters of him : 
 
 In the Biographia Dr. Campbell says, " It is certain that very few 
 Authors who have written in our language deserve the character of able 
 and agreeable writers so well as Mr. Evelyn, who, though he was ac- 
 quainted with most sciences, and wrote upon many different subjects, 
 yet was very far, indeed the farthest of most men of his time, from 
 being a superficial writer. He had genius, he had taste, he had 
 learning ; and he knew how to give all these a proper place in his 
 works, so as never to pass for a Pedant, even with such as were least in 
 love with literature, and to be justly esteemed a polite Author by those 
 who knew it best."* 
 
 Mr. Horace Walpole (afterwards Earl of Orford), in his Catalogue 
 of Engravers, also gives the following admirably-drawn character of 
 him, p. 85, 86 : " If Mr. Evelyn had not been an Artist himself, as I 
 think I can prove he was, I should yet have found it difficult to deny 
 myself the pleasure of allotting him a place among the Arts he loved, 
 promoted, patronized; and it would be but justice to inscribe his name 
 with due panegyric in these records, as I have once or twice taken the 
 liberty to criticise him : but they are trifling blemishes compared with 
 his amiable virtues and beneficence ; and it mav be remarked that the 
 worst I have said of him is, that he knew more than he always commu- 
 nicated. It is no unwelcome satire to say, that a man's intelligence and 
 philosophy is inexhaustible. I mean not to write his Life, which may 
 
 * Biog. Brit. vol. V. p. 614, note I. 
 
XXI 
 
 be found detailed in the new edition of his ' Sculptura,' in Collins's 
 ' Baronetage,' in the ' General Dictionary/ and in the ' New Biogra- 
 phical Dictionary but I must observe, that his life, which was extended 
 to 86 years, was a course of enquiry, study, curiosity, instruction, and 
 benevolence. The works of the Creator, and the minute labours of the 
 creature, were all objects of his pursuit. He unfolded the perfection of 
 the one, and assisted the imperfection of the other. He adored from 
 examination ; was a courtier that flattered only by informing his prince, 
 and by pointing out what was worthy for him to countenance ; and 
 really was the Neighbour of the Gospel, for there was no man that might 
 not have been the better for him. Whoever peruses a list of his works 
 will subscribe to my assertion. He was one of the first promoters of 
 the Royal Society ; a patron of the ingenious and the indigent ; and 
 peculiarly serviceable to the lettered world ; for besides his writings and 
 discoveries, he obtained the Arundelian Marbles for the University of 
 Oxford, and the Arundelian Library for the Royal Society. — Nor is it 
 the least part of his praise, that he, who proposed to Mr. Boyle the 
 erection of a Philosophical College for retired and speculative persons, 
 had the honesty to write in defence of active life against Sir George, 
 Mackenzie's Essay on Solitude. He knew that retirement, in his own 
 hands, was industry, and benefit to mankind ; but in those of others, 
 laziness and inutility." 
 
 His son, Mr. John Evelyn, was of Trinity College, Oxford, and when 
 about 15 years old he wrote that elegant Greek Poem which is prefixed 
 to the second edition of the " Sylva." He translated Rapin on Gardens, 
 in four books, written in Latin verse. His Father annexed the second book 
 of this to the second edition of his " Sylva." He also translated from 
 the Greek of Plutarch the life of Alexander the Great, printed in the 
 fourth volume of " Plutarch's Lives, by several Hands ;" and from the 
 French, the History of the Grand Viziers Mahomet and Achmet Co- 
 progli. There are several Poems of his, of which some are printed in 
 Dryden's Miscellanies, and more in Nichols's Collection of Poems. 
 
 In December 1688 he was presented to the Prince of Orange at 
 Abington by Col. Sidney and Col. Berkley, and was one of the volunteers 
 
xxii 
 
 in Lord Lovelace's troop, when his Lordship secured Oxford for the 
 Prince. In 1690 he purchased the place of Chief Clerk of the Trea- 
 sury ; but in the next year he was by some means removed from it by 
 Mr. Guy, who succeeded in that office. In August 1692 he was made 
 one of the Commissioners of the Revenue in Ireland, from whence he 
 returned to England in 1696 in very ill health, and died 24th March, 
 1698, in his father's life-time. 
 
 He married Martha, daughter and coheir of Richard Spenser, Esq. 
 a Turkey merchant, by whom he had two sons and three daughters. 
 The eldest son, and the eldest daughter, Martha-Mary, and youngest 
 daughter, Jane, died infants. The surviving daughter, Elizabeth, mar- 
 ried Simon Harcourt, Esq. son of the Lord Chancellor Harcourt. 
 September 18, 1705, the son John, who had succeeded his grandfather 
 at Wotton, married Anne, daughter of Edward Boscawen, Esq. of the 
 county of Cornwall ; and by letters patent, dated 30 July 1713, was cre- 
 ated a Baronet. He inherited the virtue and the taste for learning, as 
 well as the patrimony, of his ancestors, and lived at Wotton universally 
 loved and respected. He built a Library there, 45 feet long, 14 wide, 
 and as many high, for the reception of the large and curious collection 
 of books made by his grandfather, father, and himself, and where they 
 now remain. He was a Fellow of the Royal Society, was long the 
 First Commissioner of the Customs, and died July 15, 1763, in the 
 eighty-second year of his age. 
 
 By his lady, who died before him, he had several children, and was 
 succeeded by John the eldest, who married Mary daughter of Hugh 
 Boscawen, Viscount Falmouth, and died 11 June, 1/67, in the sixty- 
 first year of his age. He was Clerk of the Green Cloth to Frederick 
 Prince of Wales, father of the present King, to this King when Prince 
 of Wales, and after he came to the Crown. He represented the Bo- 
 rouo-h of Helston in several Parliaments, and to the time of his death. 
 He had only one son, Frederick, who succeeded to the title and estate, 
 and three daughters. Of the daughters, two died unmarried ; the third, 
 Augusta, married the Rev. Dr. Henry Jenkin, Rector of Wotton and 
 Ahinger, but she died without issue. Sir Frederick was in the army 
 in the early part of his life, and was in Elliot's Light-Horse when 
 
xxm 
 
 that Regiment so highly distinguished themselves in the famous 
 Battle of Minden in Germany in 1759. He married Mary, daugh- 
 ter of William Turton, Esq. of Staffordshire, and, dying without 
 issue in 1812, he left his estates to his Lady. She lived at Wotton, 
 where she fully maintained the honour and great respect which had 
 so long attended the family there. Her taste for botany was displayed 
 in her garden and green-house, where she had a curious collection of 
 exotic, as well as native, shrubs and flowers. The Library shared her 
 attention ; besides making additions to it, she had a complete Cata- 
 logue arranged by Mr. Upcott of the London Institution. 
 
 This lady by her will returned the estate to the family, devising it to 
 John Evelyn, Esq. who descended from George Evelyn, the purchaser 
 of this estate in 1579. 
 
xxiv 
 
 The following are Epitaphs to the memory of the writer of this 
 Diary, and part of his family, interred in the Dormitory adjoining Wot- 
 ton Church, of which an engraving is annexed. 
 
 For his Grandfather, who settled at Wotton, on an alabaster monu- 
 ment, written by Dr. Comber, Master of Trinity College, Cambridge, 
 and afterwards Dean of Durham. 
 
 D. O. M. S. 
 
 Georgio Evelino, Arm. non minus 
 Vitae et Morum exemplo, quam dignitate 
 conspicuo, quern plenum annis (inoffensae 
 vitas decurso itinere, quale sibi opta- 
 runt magni illi, qui inane strepitum 
 tranquillitati posthabendum putarunt) 
 Mors immatura abstulit, namq; 
 rebus omnibus, Deo omnia benh vertente, 
 affluens, quibus vita beata efficitur, 
 repetito non infelici delectu matrimo- 
 nio, Liberos ad filios 16, octoque 
 filias, pen6 octogenarius decessit senex ; 
 Parenti charissimo, et bene merenti 
 Richardus Evelinus, filiorum natu minimus, 
 
 Monumentum cum carmine mcerens 
 posuit, quod non tarn Patris vivo hominum 
 ore victuri, quam propriae Pietatis 
 
 testimonium esset. 
 Obiit 30 die Maii, An. Dom. 1603. 
 iEtatis suae 73. 
 
 On another alabaster monument are the figures of a man and his wife 
 kneeling, and five children ; below is this inscription : 
 
 Epitaphium 
 vere generosi, et praenobilis Viri, D. Richardi 
 Evelini, armigeri, in agro Surriensi, hie 
 subter in terra conditi. 
 
 Quem Pietas, Probitas, claris natalibus orturn, 
 
 Prolis amor dulcis, Vilaq. labe carens, 
 Religionis opus, quern Vota Precesq; suorum, 
 
 Et morum niveus candor, aperta manus, 
 Reddebant olim charum patriseq; suisq; 
 
 Vertitur in cineres hac Evelinus humo. 
 Lector, ne doleas, cum sis mortalis, abito 
 
 Et sortis non sis immemor ipse tuae. 
 
BiUuhed 0tr."l3*lJi0. tv/fm/y (Miu n . Conduit Snrrt .Mandvn 
 
XXV 
 
 Obiit Quinquagenarius 
 corporis statu vegeto, vicesimo die Decembris anno 
 Salutis humanae 
 1640, Liberorum quinq. Pater, 
 relictis quatuor superstitibus, tribus 
 scil. filiis cum 
 unica tantum filia. 
 Festinantes sequimur. 
 
 On another monument, fixed to the same wall : 
 
 To 
 
 the precious memory of 
 Ellen Evelyn, 
 the dearly beloved wife of Richard Evelyn, Esq. 
 a rare example of Piety, Loyalty, Prudence, and Charity, 
 a happy Mother of five Children, 
 George, John, Richard, Elizabeth, and Jane; 
 who in the 37th year of her age, 
 the 22d of her marriage, 
 and the 1635th of Man's Redemption, 
 put on Immortality, 
 leaving her name as a monument of her perfections, 
 and her Perfections as a precedent for imitation. 
 
 Of her great worth to know, who seeketh more, 
 Must mount to Heaven, where she is gone before. 
 
 On a white marble, covering a Tomb shaped like a coffin raised about 
 
 three feet above the floor, is inscribed : 
 
 Here lies the Body 
 of John Evelyn Esq, 
 of this place, second son 
 of Richard Evelyn Esq; 
 who having; serv'd the Publick 
 in several employments, of which that 
 of Commissioner of the Privy-Seal in the 
 Reign of King James the 2d was most 
 honourable, and perpetuated his fame 
 by far more lasting monuments than 
 those of Stone or Brass, his learned 
 and usefull Works, fell asleep the 27 day 
 of February 1705-6*, being the 86 year 
 of his age, in full hope of a glorious 
 Resurrection, thro' Faith in Jesus Christ, 
 Living in an age of extraordinary 
 Events and Revolutions, he learnt 
 (as himself asserted) this Truth, 
 which pursuant to his intention 
 is here declared — 
 That all is vanity which is not honest, 
 d 
 
XXVI 
 
 and that there is no solid wisdom 
 
 but in real Piety. 
 Of five Sons and three Daughters 
 born to him from his most 
 vertuous and excellent Wife, 
 Mary, sole daughter and heiress 
 of Sir Rich. Browne of Sayes 
 Court near Deptford in Kent, 
 onely one daughter, Susanna 
 married to William Draper 
 
 Esq; of Adscomb in this 
 County, survived him ; the 
 two others dying in the 
 flower of their age, and 
 all the Sons very young ex- 
 cept one named John, who 
 deceased 24 March 1 69 8-9, 
 in the 45 year of his age, 
 leaving one son, John, and 
 one daughter, Elizabeth. 
 
 On another monument at the head of, and like the former : 
 
 Mary Evelyn, 
 the best Daughter, Wife, 
 and Mother, 
 the most accomplished of women, 
 
 beloved, esteemed, admired, 
 and regretted, by all who knew her, 
 
 is deposited in this stone coffin, 
 according to her own desire, as near 
 as could be to her dear Husband 
 John Evelyn, 
 with whom she lived almost 
 Threescore years, 
 and survived not quite three, dying 
 at London, the 9 of Feb. 1708-9, 
 in the 74th year of her age. 
 
 In the Church of St. Nicholas, Deptford, on the East wall, to th 
 South of the altar, is a marble mural tablet with the following In 
 scriptions to the two Children of Mr. Evelyn, whose early loss he ha 
 so feelingly lamented in his Diary : 
 
 R.Evelyn. I. F. 
 
 Quiescit hoc sub marmore, 
 Una quiescit quicquid est amabile, 
 Patres quod optent, aut quod orbi lugeant; 
 Genas decentes nou, ut ante, risus 
 
 Lepore condit amplius ; 
 
xxvii 
 
 Morum venustas, quanta paucis contigit, 
 
 Desideratur omnibus. 
 
 Lingua?, Latina, Gallica, 
 Quas imbibit cum lacte materno, tacent. 
 Tentarat Artes, artiumque principiis 
 
 Pietatis elementa hauserat. 
 Libris inhaesit itnprobo labore 
 
 Ut sola mors divelleret. 
 Quod indoles, quod disciplina, quod labor 
 
 Possint, ab uno disceres. 
 Puer stupendus, qualis hie esset senex 
 Si fata vitse subministrassent iter! 
 
 Sed aliter est visum Deo : 
 Correptus ille febricula levi jacet, 
 Jacent tot una spes Parentum ! 
 Vixit Ann. V. M. V. Ill super D. 
 
 Eheu ! delicias breves. 
 Quicquid placet mortale, non placet diu, 
 Quicquid placet mortale, ne placeat nimis. 
 
 Mary Evelyn, 
 Eldest Daughter of John Evelyn, 
 and Mary his wife, borne the last day of 
 September 1665, att Wootton in 
 the County of Surrey. A beautifull 
 young woman, endowed with shining 
 Qualities both of body and mind, infmitly 
 pious, the delight of her Parents and Friends. 
 She dyed 17 March 1685 at the 
 Age of 1Q Years, 5 Months, 17 Dayes, 
 regretted by all persons of worth 
 that knew her value. 
 
 A tablet adjoining the foregoing, is thus inscribed : 
 
 M. S. 
 
 Neere this place are deposited y e bodys 
 of Sir Richard Browne of Sayes-Court in Deptford, Knt; 
 Of his wife Dame Joanna Vigorus of Langham in Essex, 
 
 deceased in Nov. 1618 aged 74 years. 
 This Sir Richard was younger son of an ancient family of 
 Hitcham in Suffolk, seated afterwards at Horsly in Essex, who (being 
 Student in the Temple) was by Robert Dudley, the great Earle of Leicester, 
 taken into the service of the Crowne when he went 
 Governor of the United Netherlands, and was afterwards 
 by Queene Elizabeth made Clearke of the Greene Cloth, 
 in which honorable office he also continued under King James untill the 
 time of his death, May 1604, aged 6*5 yeares; 
 Of Christopher Browne, Esq. son and heire of Sir Richard, who 
 deceased in March 16*45, aged 70 yeares; 
 Of Thomasin his wife, da r of Benjamin Gonson of Much Bado 
 
xxviii 
 
 in Essex, Esq. whose grandfather William Gonson, and father Benjamin, 
 were successively Treasurers of the Navy to King Hen: VIII., to K. Ed. VI., 
 to Queene Mary, and Q. Elizabeth ; and died June 16*38, aged 75 years; 
 Of Sir Richard Browne Knt. and Baronet, onely son of Christopher ; 
 Of his wife Dame Elizabeth, daughter of Sir John Pretyman of 
 Dry-field in Glocester shire, who deceased vi Octob r 
 16*52, aged 42 years. 
 This Sir Richard was Gentleman of the Privy Chamber to 
 K. Charles y e First, and Cleark of the Council of his Ma^, and to 
 K. Charles y e Second, and (after several foraigne and honorable employments) 
 continued Resident in the Court of France from K. Char, the I. and 
 from K. Char. II d to the French-Kings Lewes XIII. and Lewes XIV. from 
 the years 16*41 (the beginning of our un-naturall civile-warr) untill the happy 
 Restauration of K. Char.y e II d 16*60 ; deceased xn. Feb. A° 16*82-3 aged 78 y rs ; 
 and (according to ancient custome) willed to be interred in this place. 
 These all deceasing in the true Faith of Christ, 
 hope, through his merits, for a joyfull and blessed 
 Resurrection. X. A. P. D. 
 This Title was erected by John Evelyn Esq. of 
 Sayes-Court, who maried Mary sole daughter 
 and heiresse of Sir Richard. 
 
 Arms. — Quarterly, 1. Or, a chief Sable, an augmentation granted 
 to Broivne ; 2. Gules, a griffin passant Or, a chief of the second — 
 Broivne ; 3. Argent, a fret G. 4. Quarterly, indented Or and G. 
 
 In the Church-yard is the Tomb of Sir Richard, with this inscription : 
 
 M. S. Richardus Browne de Sayes Court Deptfordiae in comitatu Cantii, 
 eques auratus et baronettus, Regibus Carolo I. et II. a sanctioribus conciliis 
 secretarius, necnon utriusque Regis totos viginti annos ad LudovicosXIII.etXIV. 
 Gallise Reges prolegatus. y^Etatis confectus in ccelestem patriam migrans 
 exuvias corporis hie deposuit aetatis anno 7S, reparatae salutis I6S3, unica 
 relicta filia Johanni Evelyno nupta. Monumentum in parte ecclesiae interiore 
 Gener P. P. 
 
KALENDARIUM. 
 
 I WAS borne at Wotton, in the county of Surrey, 31st Oct. 1620, 
 after my Father had been married about 7 yeares *, and my Mother 
 had borne him two daughters and one sonn, viz. Eliza 28th Nov. 
 1614; Jane 16 Feb. 1615; George 18 June 1617- They had another 
 sonn after me, Richard, born 4th Dec r . 1622. 
 
 My Father, named Richard, was of a sanguine complexion, mixed 
 with a dash of choler : his haire inclining to light, which tho' very 
 thick became hoary by that time he was 30 yeares of age ; it was 
 somewhat curled towards the extremity ; his heard, which he wore a 
 little picked, as the mode was, of a brownish colour, and so continued 
 to the last, save that it was somewhat mingled with grey haires about 
 his cheekes : which, with his countenance, was cleare, and fresh co- 
 lour'd, his eyes quick and piercing, an ample forehead, manly aspect; 
 low of stature, but very strong. So exact and temperate, that I haue 
 heard he had never been surprised byexcesse, being ascetic and sparing. 
 His wisdom was greate, his judgment acute; of solid discourse, affable, 
 humble, and in nothing affected; of a thriving, neate, silent, and 
 methodical genius ; discreetly severe, yet liberal on all just occasions, 
 to his children, strangers, and servants; a lover of hospitality; of a 
 singular and Christian moderation in all his actions ; a Justice of the 
 Peace and of the Quorum ; he served his Country as High Sheriff for 
 Surrey and Sussex together f. He was a studious decliner of honours 
 
 * He was married at St. Thomas's Church, Southvvark, 27 Jan. 1613. 
 
 f Formerly the two Counties had, in general, only one Sheriff, though sometimes distinct ones; 
 in 163* each County had its Sheriff, and so it has continued ever since. 
 VOL. I. B 
 
2 
 
 and titles, being already in that esteem with his country that 
 they could have added little to him beside their burden *. He was a 
 person of that rare conversation, that upon frequent recollection, and 
 calling to mind passages of his life and discourse, I could never charge 
 him with the least passion or inadvertence. His estate was esteem'd 
 about ^£.4,000 per ann. well wooded and full of timber. 
 
 My Mother's name was Elianor, sole daughter -|* and heyresse of 
 John Standsfield, Esq. ; of an ancient and honourable family (though 
 now extinct) in Shropshire, by his wife Elianor Comber of a good and 
 well knowne house in Sussex. She was of proper personage ; of a 
 browne complexion ; her eyes and haire of a lovely black ; of constitu- 
 tion inclyned to a religious melancholy, or pious sadnesse ; of a rare 
 memory and most exemplary life ; for ceconomie and prudence esteemed 
 one of the most conspicuous in her Country. 
 
 So much touching my parents; nor was it reasonable I should speake 
 lesse of them to whom I owe so much. 
 
 Wotton, the mansion house of my father, left him by my grandfather, 
 (now my eldest brother's) is situated in the most Southern part of the 
 Shire, and tho' in a vally, yet really upon part of Lyth Hill, one of the 
 most eminent in Engl'd J for the prodigious prospect to be seen from 
 its sum'it, tho' by few observed. From it may be discern'd 12 or 13 
 Counties, with part of the Sea on the Coast of Sussex, in a serene day; 
 the house large and ancient, suitable to those hospitable times, and so 
 sweetly environed with those delicious streams and venerable woods, as 
 in the judgement of Strangers as well as Englishmen it may be com- 
 pared to one of the most pleasant Seates in the Nation, and most tempt- 
 ing for a great person and a wanton purse to render it conspicuous : it 
 has rising grounds, meadows, woods, and water, in abundance. 
 
 The distance from London little more than 20 miles §, and yet so 
 securely placed as if it were 100 ; three miles from Dorking, which 
 
 * " R l1 the "29. Oct 1- 1630, of Rich J Evlinge of Wottone in the Countye of Suit' Esq; by waie of 
 composic'one to the use of his Mat ie , being apointed by his Ma tie Collector for the same, for his 
 Fine for not apearinge at the time and place apoynted for receavinge order of K'hood, the somme 
 of fivetey pound I say receaved Tho. Crymes." 
 
 f She was born 17 Nov. 1598, near Lewes in Sussex. % 993 feet. 
 
 § Computed miles ; it is a little more than 26 measured miles. 
 
1624—1627.] 3 
 
 serves it abundantly with provision as well of land as sea ; 6 from 
 Gilford, 12 from Kingston*. I will say nothing of the ayre, because 
 the preeminence is universally given to Surrey, the soil being dry and 
 sandy ; but I should speake much of the gardens, fountaines, and groves, 
 that adorne it, were they not as generaly knowne to be amongst the 
 most natural, and (til this later and universal luxury of the whole 
 nation, since abounding in such expenses) the most magnificent that 
 England afforded, and which indeede gave one of the first examples to 
 that elegancy since so much in vouge, and follow'd in the managing 
 of their waters, and other ornaments of that nature. Let me add 
 the contiguity of five or six Mannors-j*, the patronage of the livings 
 about it, and, what is none of the least advantages, a good neighbour- 
 hood. All which conspire to render it fit for the present possessor, my 
 worthy brother, and his noble lady J, whose constant liberality give 
 them title both to the place and the affections of all that know them. 
 Thus, with the poet, 
 
 Nescio qua natale solum dulcedine cunctos 
 Ducit, et im'emores non sinit esse sui. 
 
 1624. I was not initiated into any rudiments till I was four years 
 of age, and then one Frier taught us at the church porch of Wotton ; 
 and T perfectly remember the great talk and stir about il Conde Gun- 
 damar, Ambass r from Spain (for near about this time was the match 
 of our Prince with the Infanta proposed). 
 
 1625. I was this year sent by my Father to Lewes in Sussex, to 
 be with my Grandfather Standsfield, with whom I passed my child- 
 hood. This was the year in which the pestilence was so epidemical 
 that there dy'd in London 5,000 a week ; and I well remember the 
 strict watches and examinations upon the ways as we passed. 
 
 1626. My picture was drawn in oyle by one Chanterell, no ill 
 painter. 
 
 1627- My Grandfather Standsfield dyed this yeare on 5 Feb : I 
 remember the solemnity at his funeral. He was buried in the parish 
 church of All Soules, where my Grandmother, his second wife, erected 
 a monument. About this time was the consecration of the Church of 
 
 * 8 and 14. f 7 Manors, "2 Advowsons, and a Chapel of Sir John Cotton. J Lady Cotton, widow. 
 
4 [1628 — 1(>34- 
 
 South Mailing, near Lewes, the building whereof was chiefly pro- 
 cured by my Grandfather, who having the Impropriation, gave 201. 
 a-year out of it to this Church. I afterwards sold the Impropriation. 
 I layd one of the first stones at the building of the Church, which was 
 consecrated by Bishop Field, Bishop of Oxf d , the sermon being 
 preached by Mr. Coxhall, afterwards minister there. 
 
 It was not till the yeare 1628 that I was put to learne my Latine 
 rudiments, and to write, of one Citolin, a Frenchman, in Lewes. I 
 was put to schoole to Mr. Potts, in the Cliffe at Lewes ; and in 1630 
 from thence to the Free-schole at Southover neere the town, of which 
 one Agnes Morley had been the foundresse, and now Edward Snatt 
 was the master, under whom I remained till I was sent to the Univer- 
 sity*. This yeare my Grandmother (w th whom I sojourn'd) being 
 married to one Mr. Newton, a learned and most religious gent, we 
 went from the Cliff to dwell at his house in Southover. 
 
 1631. There happen* d an extraordinary dearth in England, come 
 bearing an excessive price ; and, in imitation of what I had seene my 
 Father do, I began to observe matters more punctualy, which I did 
 use to set downe in a blanke almanac. 
 
 21st Oct. 1632. My eldest Sister was married to Edw d Darcy 
 Esq; who little deserved so excellent a person. I was soone afterwards 
 sent for into Surrey, and my Father would willingly have weaned me 
 from my fondness of my too indulgent Grandmother, intending to 
 have placed me at Eaton ; but I was so terrified at the report of the 
 severe discipline there, that I was sent back to Lewes, which per- 
 versenesse of mine I have since a thousand times deplor'd. Whiles I 
 was now trifling at home I saw London, where I lay one night onely. 
 The next day I dined at Beddington, where I was much delighted 
 with the gardens and curiosities. Thence we returned to the Lady 
 Darcy's at Sutton, thence to Wotton, and the 16th of Aug. 1633, 
 back to Lewes. 
 
 1634. My Father was appointed Sheriff" for Surrey and Sussex before 
 they were disjoyned. He had 116 servants in liverys, every one livery'd 
 in greene sattin doublets ; divers gentlemen and persons of quality 
 
 * Long after, Mr. Evelyn paid great respect to this gentleman, as appears by his letters. 
 
1634—1635.] 5 
 
 waited on him in the same garbe and habit, which at that time (when 
 30 or 40 was the usual retinue of the High Sheriff) was esteem'd a 
 great matter. Nor was this out of the least vanity that my Father 
 exceeded (who was one of the greatest decliners of it), but because 
 he could not refuse the civility of his friends and relations, who vo- 
 luntarily came themselves, or sent in their servants. But my Father 
 was afterwards most unjustly and spitefully molested by y l jeering judge 
 Richardson*, for repreeving the execution of a woman, to gratifie my 
 L. of Lindsey, then Admiral ; but out of this he emerged with as much 
 honor as trouble. 
 
 15 December 1634. My Sister Darcy departed this life, being arriv'd 
 to her 20 yeare of age, in vertue advanc'd beyond her yeares, or the 
 merit of her husband, the worst of men. She had been brought to 
 bed the 2d of June before, but the infant died soon after her. My 
 Sister was interr'd in a very honorable manner in our dormitory joyn- 
 ing to the parish churchf, where now her monument stands. 
 
 1635. My deare Mother departed this life upon the 29 th September, 
 about the 37 th of her age and 22d of her marriage ; her death has- 
 tened by excessive grief for the losse of her daughter. When near her 
 death, she summoned all her children then living (I shall never forget 
 it), and express'd herself in a manner so heavenly, with instructions so 
 pious and Christian, as made us strangely sensible of the extraordinary 
 losse then imminent ; after which, embracing every one of us, she 
 gave to each a ring, with her blessing. Then taking my Father by 
 the hand, she recom'ended us to his care ; and having importun'd him 
 that what he design'd to bestow on her funeral he would rather dispose 
 among y e poore, she labour'd to compose herselfe for the blessed 
 change which she now expected. There was not a servant in the 
 house whom she did not expressly send for, advise, and infinitely affect 
 with her counsell. 
 
 * He was made a Chief Justice of the Common Pleas in 16*26, and of the King's Bench in 163 1. 
 There is a monument for him in Westminster Abbey. Fuller says he lived too near the time to 
 speake fully of him. He took on him to issue an order against keeping wakes on Sundays, which 
 Laud, then Bishop of Bath and Wells, took up as an infringement of the rights of Bishops, and 
 got him severely reprimanded at the Council Table. He was owner of Starborough Castle in Ling- 
 field in Surrey. Manning and Bray's History of Surrey, vol. II. p. 345. f Of Wotton. 
 
6 [1636—1637. 
 
 Though her Physicians, Dr. Merwell, Dr. Clement, and Dr. Rand, 
 had given over all hopes of her recovery, and S r Sanders Duncombe 
 tried his celebrated and famous powder, she was many days impairing, 
 and endur'd the sharpest conflicts of her sicknesse with admirable 
 patience and most Christian resignation, retaining her intellectuals and 
 ardent affections for her dissolution to the very article of her departure. 
 When near her dissolution, she laid her hand on every one of her 
 children, and taking solemn leave of my Father, with elevated heart 
 and eves she quietly expired, and resign'd her soule to God. She was 
 interr'd, as neere as might be, to her daughter Darcy, the 3d of October, 
 at night, but with no meane ceremony. 
 
 *1636. This yeare being extreamely dry, the pestilence much in- 
 creased in London and divers parts of England. 
 
 13 Feb. I was admitted into the Middle Temple, London, though 
 absent, and as yet at schoole. 
 
 3d April 1637- I left schoole, where, till about the last yeare, I 
 had been extreamly remisse in my studies, so as I went to the Univer- 
 sitie rather out of shame of abiding longer at schoole, than for any 
 fitnesse, as by sad experience I found, which put me to re-learne all 
 that I had neglected, or but perfunctorily gain'd. 
 
 10 May. I was admitted a fellow com'uner of Baliol College, Ox- 
 ford, and on the 29th I was matriculated in the Vestry at St. Marie's, 
 where I subscribed the Articles and took the oaths, Dr. Baily, head 
 of St. John's, being Vice Chancelor, afterwards Bp. The Fellow 
 Com'uners in Balliol were no more exempt from exercise than the 
 meanest scholars there, and my Father sent me thither to one Mr. 
 George Bradshaw, (~ nomen invisum ! yet the son of an excellent father, 
 beneficed in Surrey -j-.) I ever thought my Tutor had parts enough, but 
 as 1 1 Is ambition made him much suspected of y e College, so his grudge 
 to Dr. Lawrence, the governor of it, (whom he afterwards supplanted) 
 tooke up so much of his tyme, that he seldom or never had the oppor- 
 tunity to discharge his duty to his scholars. This I perceiving, asso- 
 
 * An account of the visit made by K. Charles I. and his Queen to the University of Oxford, in 
 Sept. 1636, is given at the end of this Volume, in a letter from George Evelyn, Esq. to his Father, 
 f Rector of Ockham. 
 
1637—1638.] 7 
 
 ciated myself with one Mr. James Thicknesse (then a young man of 
 the Foundation, afterwards a Fellow of the House,) by whose learned 
 and friendly conversation I received great advantage. At my first 
 arrival, Dr. Parkhurst was Master; and after his discease, Dr. Law- 
 rence, a chaplaine of his Ma'ties and Margaret Professor, succeeded, 
 an accute and learned person ; nor do I much reproch his severity, con- 
 sidering that the extraordinary remissenesse of discipline had (til his 
 coming) much detracted from the reputation of that Colledg. 
 
 There came in my tyme to the Coll: one Nathaniel Conopios out of 
 Greece, from Cyrill the Patriarch of Constantinople, who returning 
 many years after, was made (as I understand) Bishop of Smyrna. He 
 was the first I ever saw drink coffee, w ch custom came not into England 
 till 30 years after. 
 
 After I was somewhat settled there in my formalities (for then was 
 the University exceedingly regular, under the exact discipline of Wil- 
 liam Lawd, Archbishop of Canterbury, then Chancelor,) I added, as 
 benefactor to the Librarv of the Coll. these books : 
 
 Zanchii Opera, vols. 1, 2, 3. 
 
 Granado in Thomam Aquinatem, vols. 1, 2, 3. 
 
 Novarini Electa sacra, and Cresolii Anthologia sacra, authors (it 
 seems) desired by the students of Divinity there. 
 
 1637- At Christmas the Gentlemen of Exeter College presented a 
 Comedy to the University. 
 
 I was admitted into the dauncing and vaulting Schole, of which late 
 activity one Stokes, the Master, set forth a pretty book, which was 
 publish'd with many witty elogies before it*. 
 
 1638. My father order'd that I should begin to manage myne 
 owne expenses, which till then my Tutor had done; at which I was 
 much satisfied. 
 
 * It being now become extremely scarce, the title of it is here given : " The Vaulting Master, 
 or the Art of Vaulting. Reduced to a method comprized under certain Rules. Illustrated by ex- 
 amples, and now primarily set forth, by Will. Stokes. Printed for Richard Davis, in Oxon, lb'55." 
 A small oblong quarto, with the author's portrait prefixed, and a number of plates beautifully 
 engraved (most probably by Glover) representing feats of activity on horseback that appear extraor- 
 dinary ones at this time of day. From the communication of James Bindley, Esq. a gentleman 
 whose collection of scarce and valuable books is perhaps hardly to be equalled. 
 
8 [1639—1640. 
 
 1639. I began to look on the rudiments of musick, in which I 
 afterwards ariv'd to some formal knowledge, though to small perfection 
 of hand, becaus I was so frequently diverted by inclinations to newer 
 trifles. 
 
 20 May. Accompany'd with one Mr. Jo. CrafFord, (who after- 
 wards being my fellow-traveller in Italy there chang'd his religion,) I 
 tooke a journey of pleasure to see y e Sumersetshire Bathes, Bristoll, 
 Cirencester, Malmesbury, Abington, and divers other townes of lesser 
 note, and returned the 25th. 
 
 1640. Came my bro. Richard from schole to be my chamber- 
 fellow at the University. He was admitted the next day, and matricu- 
 lated the 31st. 
 
 11th April. I went to London to see the solemnity of his Ma ties 
 riding through the Citty in state to the Short Parliament, which began 
 the 13th following, a very glorious and magnificent sight, the King 
 circled with his royal diademe and the affections of his people. 
 
 27th April. I went to London to be resident in the Middle Temple. 
 My being at the University, in regard of these avocations, was of very 
 small benefit to me. 
 
 5th May was the Parliament unhappily dissolved. 
 
 20th May I return'd with my bro. Geo. to Wotton, who on the 28th 
 of the same month was married at Aldbury to Mrs. Caldwell (an heiress 
 of an ancient Leicestershire family*). 
 
 3 0th June I repaired with my Brother to the Tearme, to goe into our 
 new lodgings, (that were formerly in Essex Court,) being a very hand- 
 some apartment just over against the Hall-Court, but four pair of stairs 
 high, w'ch gave us the advantage of the fairer prospect, but did not 
 much contribute to the love of that impolish'd study, to w'ch (I sup- 
 pose) my Father had design'd me, when he paid 145/. to purchase our 
 present lives, and assignments afterwards. 
 
 London, and especially the Court, were at this period in frequent 
 disorders, and greate insolencies were com'itted by the abus'd and too 
 happy Citv : in particular the Bish. of Canterbury's Palace at Lam- 
 
 * A daughter of Daniel Caldwell, Esq. by Mary, daughter of Geo. Duncomb, Esq. ofAIbury. 
 She died 15 May 1644, and he afterwards married the widow of Sir John Cotton. 
 
1640—1641.] 9 
 
 beth was assaulted by a rude rabble from Soutliwark ; my Lord Cham- 
 berlayne imprison'd, and many scandalous libells and invectives scat- 
 ter'd about the streetes, to y c reproch of Government and the fermen- 
 tation of our since distractions. 
 
 2/th June. My Father's indisposition augmenting, by advice of the 
 physitians he repaired to the Bathe. 
 
 7 July. My brother Geo. and I understanding y e peril my Father 
 was in, rod post from Guildford towards him, and found him extraor- 
 dinary weake ; but on 8 Sept. I returned home with him in his litter. 
 
 15 Oct. I went to the Temple, it being Michaelmas Tearme*. 
 
 30th. I saw his Ma'tie (com'ing from his Northern Expedition) ride 
 in pomp and a kind of ovation, with all the marks of a happy peace, 
 restor'd to the affections of his people, being conducted through Lond: 
 with a most splendid cavalcade ; and on 3d Nov. following (a day never 
 to be mention'd without a curse) to that long, ungratefull, foolish, and 
 fatal Parliament, the beginning of all our sorrows for twenty yeares 
 after, and the period of the most happy Monarch in the world : Quis 
 talia fando !-\ 
 
 My Father's disorder appeared to be a dropsy, an indisposition the 
 most unsuspected, being a person so exemplary ly temperate. On the 
 24th Dec. he died, retaining his senses and piety to the last, which he 
 most tenderly expressed in blessing us, whom he now left to the world, 
 and the worst of times, whilst he was taken from the evill to come. 
 
 1641. 2 January. We at night followed the mourning hearse to 
 the Church at Wotton, when, after a sermon and funeral oration, my 
 Father was interred neere his formerly erected monument, and mingled 
 with the ashes of our Mother, his deare wife. Thus we were bereft of 
 both our parents in a period when we most of all stood in need of theire 
 counsell and assistance, especially myselfe, of a raw, vaine, uncertain, 
 and very unwary inclination ; but so it pleased God to make tryall of 
 my conduct in a conjuncture of the greatest and most prodigious hazard 
 that ever the youth of England saw. If 1 did not amidst all this 
 
 * The Term then began in October. 
 
 t Notwithstanding this expression, it will afterwards appear that Mr. Evelyn by no means 
 approved of arbitrary or tyrannical measures. 
 VOL. !• C 
 
10 [i64I. 
 
 peach my liberty, nor my vertue, with the rest who made shipwreck of 
 both, it was more the infinite goodness and mercy of God than the 
 least discretion of myne ovvne, who now thought of nothing but the 
 pursuite of vanity, and the confused imaginations of young men. 
 
 15. I went to London, to heare and see the famous tryall of the 
 Earle of Strafford, who on 22d March before had been summon'd 
 before both Houses of Parliament, and now appear'd in Westminster 
 Hall, which was prepar'd with scaffolds for the Lords and Com'ons, 
 who together with the King, Queene, Prince, and flower of the 
 Noblesse, were spectators and auditors of the greatest malice and the 
 greatest innocency that ever met before so illustrious an assembly. 
 The E. of Arundell and Surrey, Earle Marshall of England, was made 
 High Steward. The sequel is too well known. 
 
 2J. Came over from Holland the young Prince of Orange, with 
 a splendid equipage, to make love to his Ma'ties eldest daughter, the 
 now Princess Royal. 
 
 That evening was celebrated the pompous funeral) of the Duke of 
 Richmond, who was carried in effigie in an open chariot thro' London 
 in great solemnity. 
 
 12th May. I beheld on Tower Hill the fatal stroke which sever'd 
 the wisest head in England from the shoulders of the Earle of Straf- 
 ford ; whose crime coming under the cognizance of no human law, a 
 new one was made, not to be a precedent, but his destruction ; to such 
 exorbitancy were things arrived. 
 
 28 June. I went to London with my sister Jane, and the day after 
 sate to one Vanderborcht for my picture in oyle, which I presented to 
 her, being her request, on my resolution to absent myself from this ill 
 face of things at home, which gave umbrage to wiser than myselfe, that 
 the medaill was reversing, and our calamities but yet in their infancy. 
 
 The 16th July, having procur'd a passe at the Costome-house, I 
 went to Gravesend, accompany'd with one Mr. Caryll and our servants, 
 with a purpose to take the first opportunity of a passage for Holland : 
 but the wind as yet not favourable. On the 19th we rode to Rochester 
 and Chatham, to see the Soveraigne, a monstrous vessel so called, 
 being for burthen, defense, and ornament, the richest that ever spread 
 
HOLLAND. 1641.] 11 
 
 cloth before the wind*, and especialy for this remarkable, that her 
 building cost his Ma' tie the affections of his subjects, who quarrell'd 
 with him for a trifle, refusing to contribute either to their own safety 
 or his glory. 
 
 21. We embarqued in a Dutch Fregat, bound for Flushing, con- 
 voved and accompanied by 5 other stoute vessells, whereof one was a 
 man of war. The next day at noon we landed at Flushing. 
 
 Being desirous to overtake the Leagure -j*, which was then before 
 GenapJ, 'ere the Summer should be too far expir'd, we went this 
 evening to Midelbrogh and Derveer. From Derveer we passed over 
 many townes, houses, and ruines of demolish'd suburbs, &c. which 
 have formerly been swallow'd up by the sea, at what time no less than 
 8 of those Hands had been irrecoverably lost. 
 
 The next day we ariv'd at Dort, the first tovvne or Holland, fur- 
 nish'd with all German commodities, and especialy Rhenish wines and 
 timber. It hath almost at the extremity a very spacious and venerable 
 Church ; a stately Senat-house, wherein was holden that famous Synod 
 against the Armenians in 1618, and in that hall hangeth a picture of 
 the Passion, an exceeding rare and much esteemed piece. 
 
 From Dort, being desirous to hasten towards the Army, I tooke 
 wagon to Roterdam, where we were hurried in lesse than an houre, 
 though it be 10 miles distant, so furiously do these Foremen drive. 
 I saw the publiq statue of the learn'd Erasmus, of brasse. They shew'd 
 us his House, or rather the meane Cottage wherein he was borne, over 
 which there were extant these lines in capital letters : 
 
 iEDIBUS HIS ORTUS, MUNDUJI DECORAVIT ERASMUS 
 ARTIBUS INGENUIS, RELIGIONE, FIDE. 
 
 The 26th I passed through Delft to the Hague ; in which journey 
 I observ'd divers leprous poor creatures dwelling in solitary huts on the 
 
 * Accidentally burnt at Chatham in 1696. 
 
 t Mr. Evelyn means, by this expression, to be in time to witness the siege, &c. 
 
 + On the Waal — a place which having been greatly strengthened by the Cardinal Infante D. Fer- 
 nando in 1635, was at this time besieged by the French and Dutch. There is a full account of 
 the siege in the great work of Aitzema, a man who with extraordinary patience compiled mate- 
 rials for the History of the United Provinces during the greater part of the seventeenth century- 
 One of his brothers was mortally wounded at this siege. 
 
3 2 [HOLLAND. lC41. 
 
 brink of the water, and permitted to aske the charity of passengers, 
 which is convey'd to them in a floating box that they cast out. 
 
 Ariv'd at the Hague, I went first to the Queene of Bohemia's 
 Court ; there were several of the Princesses her daughters, Prince 
 Maurice newly come out of Germany, and my Ld. Finch, not long 
 before fled out of England from the fury of the Parliament. It was a 
 fasting-day with the Queene, for the unfortunate death of her husband ; 
 and the Presence Chamber had been hung with black velvet ever since 
 his discease. 
 
 The 28th I went by Leyden ; and the 29th to Utricht. We then 
 came to Rynen, where the Queene of Bohemia hath a neate Palace or 
 Country-house, built after the Italian manner as I remember. Then 
 by Nimeguen. And, 2d of August, ariv'd at the Leagure, where was 
 then the whole Army encamped about Genep, a strong castle on the 
 river Wahale ; but being taken 4 or 5 days before, we had only a sight 
 of the demolitions. The next Sunday was the thanksgiving sermons 
 perform'd in Col. Goreing's Regiment (eldest sonne of the since Earle 
 of Norwich) by Mr. GofFe his Chaplin (now turned Roman and Father 
 Confessor to the Queen-Mother). The evening was spent in firing 
 canon, and other expressions of military triumphs. 
 
 Now, according to the compliment, I was received a Volunteere in 
 the Company of Cap. Apsley, of whose Capt. Lieutennant Honywood 
 (Apsley being absent) I received many civilities. 
 
 3 August, at night, we rod about the lines of circumvallation, the 
 Gen'll being then in the field. The next day I was accom'odated with 
 a very spacious and com'odious tent for my lodging, as before I was 
 with an horse, which I had at com'and, and an hutt, which during the 
 excessive heates was a greate convenience, for the sun piercing the 
 canvass of the tent, it was, during the day, unsufferable, and at night 
 not seldome infested with mists and fogg, which ascended from the 
 river. 
 
 6 August. As the turne came about, I watched on a home worke 
 neere our quarters, and trailed a pike, being the next morning reliev'd 
 by a company of French. This was our continual duty till the Castle 
 was re-fortified. 
 
HOLLAND. 1641.] 13 
 
 The 7th I went to see a Convent of Franciscan Friers, not far from 
 our tents ; the Chapell and Refectory full of the goods of such poor 
 people as at the approch of the Army had fled with them thither for 
 sanctuary. On the day following I went to view all the trenches, 
 approches, and mines, &c. of the Besiegers, and in particular the 
 wheel-bridg, which engine his Excellency had made to run over the 
 moate when they storm'd the castle. The walls and ramparts of earth, 
 which a mine had broaken and crumbled, were of prodigious thicknesse. 
 
 8. I din'd in the Horse quarters with Sir Robert Stone and his 
 Lady, Sir William Stradling, and divers Cavaliers, where there was 
 very good cheere, but hot service for a young drinker as I then was. — 
 Being pretty well satisfied with the confusion of Armies and Sieges (if 
 such that of the United Provinces may be called, where their quarters 
 and encampments are so admirably regular, and orders so exactly 
 observed as few Cittys exceede it for all conveniences), I tooke my 
 leave of the Leagure and Camerades. 
 
 12 August, I embarked on the Waal, in company with 3 grave 
 Divines, who entertayn'd us a greate part of our passage with a long 
 dispute concerning the lawfulness of Church Musick. We touch'd at 
 Bommell, that had divers English in garrison. It stands upon Contri- 
 bution land, which subjects the environs to the Spanish incursions. 
 We passed Lovestine, famous for the escape of the learned Grotius, 
 whose lady conveyed him out as a trunk of books. We lay at Gorcum. 
 
 13. We arived late at Roterdam, where was their annual marte or 
 faire, so furnished with pictures (especially Landskips and Drolleries, 
 as they call those clounish representations) that 1 was amaz'd. Some 
 I bought and sent into England. The reson of this store of pictures and 
 their cheapness proceedes from their want of land to employ their stock, 
 so that it is an ordinary thing to find a com'on Farmer lay out two or 
 3,000/. in this com'odity. Their houses are full of them, and they vend 
 them at their faires to very greate gaines. Here I first saw an Eliphant. 
 I passed thro' Delft, and visited the Church, where was the monument 
 of Prince William of Nassau, and his sonn and successor, Grave Mau- 
 rice. The Senat-house hath a very stately Portico, supported with very 
 choyse pillars of black marble, as I remember, of one entire stone. 
 Within, there hangs a weighty vessell, not unlike a Butter Churne, 
 
14 [HOLLAND. 1641. 
 
 which the adventurous woman that hath two husbands at one time is to 
 weare for a time about the towne, her head com'ing out at the hole, 
 and the rest hanging on her shoulders, as a pennance for her incon- 
 tinence. Risewick is a stately country-house of the Prince of Orange, 
 for nothing more remarkable than the delicious walkes planted with 
 lime trees, and the moderne paintings within. 
 
 19 August. We vissited the Haff or Prince's Court at the Hague, 
 with the adjoining gardens, which were full of ornament, close-walks, 
 statues, marbles, grotts, fountains, and artificiall musiq*, &c. There 
 is a stately Hall, not much inferior to ours of Westminster, hung round 
 with colours and other trophys taken from the Spanyards ; and 
 the sides below are furnish 'd with shoppsf. Next day I return'd to 
 Delft, Rotterdam, the Hague, Leyden, Haerlem, and Amsterdam, 
 where I went to a Synagogue of the Jews, being Saturday ; the cere- 
 monies, ornaments, lamps, law, and scholes, afforded matter for my 
 wonder and enquiry. The women were secluded from the men, being 
 seated above in galleries, and having their heads muffled with linnen 
 after a fantasticall and somewhat extraordinary fashion. They have a 
 seperate burying-ground, full of sepulchres with Hebrew inscriptions, 
 some of them very stately. In one, looking through a narrow crevice, 
 I perceiv'd divers bookes lye about a corpse, for it seems when any 
 learned Rabbi dies, they bury some of his books with him. With the 
 help of a stick I raked out some of the leaves, written in Hebrew cha- 
 racters, but much impaired. — We stepp'd in to see the Spin-house, a 
 kind of Bridewell, where incorrigible and lewd women are kept in dis- 
 cipline and labour, but all neate. — We were shew'd an Hospital for 
 poor travellers and pilgrimes, built by Queene Eliz. of England ; and 
 another maintained by the Citty. 
 
 The State or Senat-house, if the designe be perfected, will be a 
 magnificent piece of architecture, especialy for the materialls and the 
 carvings. In the Doole is paynted on a very large table Marie de 
 Aledice's statue to the breast, supported by foure royal diademes, the 
 work of one Vandal 1, who hath set his name thereon, 1 September 1638. 
 
 * As at Enstone in Oxfordshire, see afterwards.. 
 
 t Westminster Hall used to be so in Term time and the sitting of Parliament, in the beginning 
 of the reign of George III. 
 
HOLLAND. 1641.] 
 
 15 
 
 I went to heare an English sermon at the Presbyterian Congrega- 
 tion, where they had chalked upon a slate the psalms that were to be 
 sung, so that all the congregation might see it without the bidding of a 
 Clerk. After such an age no minister was permitted to preach, but 
 had his maintenance continu'd during life. 
 
 1 changed my lodgings out of a desire to converse amongst the Sec- 
 taries that swarm'd in this Citty. It was at a Brownist's house, where 
 we had an extraordinary good table. There was in pension with us my 
 L. Keeper Finch, and one Sir Jo. Fotherbee. Here I also found an 
 English Carmelite, with another Irish gentleman. I went to see the 
 Weese-house, a foundation like our Charter-house, for the education of 
 decay'd persons, orphans, and poore children, where they are taught 
 several occupations. The girls are so well brought up to housewifry, 
 that men of good worth who seeke that cheifly in a woman, frequently 
 take their wifes from this seminary. We went to see the Rasp-house, 
 where the lusty knaves are compell'd to labour, and the rasping of 
 Brasill and Logwood is very hard labour. Thence to the Dull-house, 
 for madmen and fooles. But none did I so much admire as an Hos- 
 pitall for their lame and decrepid souldiers, it being for state, order, 
 and acom'odations, one of the worthiest things that the world can shew 
 of that nature. Indeede it is most remarkable what provisions are here 
 made and maintain'd for publiq and charitable purposes, and to protect 
 the poore from misery, and the country from beggers. 
 
 On Sunday morning about 11, after their sermons were ended, I 
 went to see their Dog market, which lasts till two in the afternoon. I 
 do not look on the structure of the Exchange to be comparable to that 
 of Sir Tho. Gresham in o T Citty of London, yet in one respect it ex- 
 ceeds, that ships of considerable burthen ride at the very key conti- 
 guous to it. It is by extraordinary industry that as well this Citty, as 
 generaly the townes of Holland, are so acom'odated w th graffs, cutts, 
 sluces, moles, and rivers, that nothing is more frequent then to see 
 a whole navy of marchands and others environ'd with streetes and 
 houses, every man's barke or vessell at anker before his very doore, 
 and yet the streete so exactly straite, even, and uniforme, that no- 
 thing can be more pleasing, especialy being so frequently planted and 
 
16 [HOLLAND. 1^41. 
 
 shaded with the beautifull lime-trees, set in rows before every man's 
 house. 
 
 The next day we were entertain'd at a kind of tavern called the 
 JBrilqft, appertaining to a rich Anabaptist, where, in the upper roomes 
 of the house were divers pretty waterworkes, rising 108 foote from the 
 ground ; here were many quaint devices, fountaines, artificiall musiq, 
 noyses of beasts, and chirping of birds, &c. There was a lamp of 
 brasse, with eight socketts from the middle stem, like those we use in 
 churches, having counterfeit tapers in them, streams of water issuing 
 
 as out of their wickes, the whole branch hanging loose upon 
 
 the middst of a beame, without any other perceptible com'erce with 
 any pipe, so that, unlesse it were by compression of the ayre with a 
 syringe, I could not comprehend how it should be don. There was a 
 chime of piuselan dishes, which fitted to clock-worke rung many 
 changes and tunes. 
 
 The Reisers Graft, or Emperors Streete, appears a citty in a wood 
 through the goodly ranges of the stately lime-trees planted before each 
 man's doore, and at the margent of that goodly aquae-duct, or river, 
 so curiously wharfed with clincars (a kind of white sun-bak'd brick), 
 and of which the spacious streetes on either side are paved. This part 
 of Amsterdam is gained upon the maine Sea, supported by piles at an 
 im'ense charge. Prodigious it is to consider the multitude of vessels 
 which continualy ride before this Citty, which is certainly the most 
 busie concourse of mortalls now upon the whole earth, and the most 
 addicted to com'erce. 
 
 The Steeples are adorned after a particular manner for cost and inven- 
 tion ; the Chimes of Bells are so rarely manag'd, that being curious to 
 know whether the motion were from any engine, I went up to that of 
 St. Nicholas (as I take it), where I found one who play'd all sorts of 
 compositions from the tablature before him, as if he had fingered an 
 organ, for so were the hammers fastened with wires to several keys, 
 put into a frame 20 foote below the bells, upon which (by help of a 
 wooden instrument, not much unlike a weaver's shuttle, that guarded 
 his hand) he struck on the keys and play'd to admiration : all this while 
 through the clattering of the wires, din of the too nearly sounding bells, 
 
HOLLAND. 1^41.] 1? 
 
 and noise that his wooden gloves made, the confusion was so greate, 
 that it was impossible for the musician, or any that stood neare him, to 
 heare any thing himselfe ; yet to those at a distance, and especialy in the 
 streetes, the harmony and the time were the most exact and agreeable. 
 
 Generaly there are in all the Churches in Holland, organs, lamps, 
 monuments, &c. carefully preserved from the fury and impiety of po- 
 pular reformers, whose zeale has foolishly transported them in other 
 places rather to act like mad-men than religious. 
 
 I went to Hundius's shop to buy some mapps, greatly pleased with 
 the designes of that indefatigable person. Mr. Bleaw, the setter forth 
 of the Atlas's and other workes of that kind, is worthy seeing. At ano- 
 ther shop I furnish'd myselfe with some shells and Indian curiosities. 
 
 Towards the end of August I returned to Haerlem by the river 10 
 miles in length, straighte as a line and of competent breadth for ships 
 to saile by one another. They shew'd us a cottage where, they told us, 
 dwelt a woman who had been married to her 25th husband, and being 
 now a widdow was prohibited to marry in future, yet it could not be 
 proved that she had ever made any of her husbands away, though the 
 suspicion had brought her divers times to trouble. 
 
 This is a very delicate towne, and hath one of the fairest Churches, of 
 the Gotiq design, I had seene. There hang in the steeple two silver 
 bells, said to have been brought from Damiate in Egypt by an Earle 
 of Holland, in memory of whose successe they are rung out every even- 
 ing. In the Nave hang the goodliest branches of brasse for tapers 
 that I had seene, esteem'd of great value for the curiosity of the work- 
 manship ; also a faire payre of organs, which I could not find they 
 made use of in divine service, or so much as to assist them in sniffing; 
 psalmes, but only for shewe, and to recreate the people before and after 
 their devotions, whilst the Burgomasters were walking and conferring 
 about their affaires. — There hang near the West window two modells 
 of shipps compleetely equipp'd, in memory of that invention of saws 
 under their keeles with which they cutt the chayne before the Port of 
 Damiatae. Having vissited this Church, the Fish -market, and made 
 some enquiry about the Printing-house, the invention whereof is sayd 
 to have been in this towne, I returned to Levden. 
 
 VOL. I. D 
 
18 [HOLLAND. 1641. 
 
 At Leyden I was carried up to the Castle, or Pyrgus, built on a 
 very steepe artificial mount, cast up (as reported) by Hengist the 
 Saxon on his returne out of England, as a place to retyre to in case of 
 any sudden inundations. 
 
 The Churches are many and very faire ; in one of them lyes interr'd 
 that prodigy of learning the noble and illustrious Joseph Scaliger, 
 without any extraordinary inscription, as having himself left so many 
 monuments of his worth behind him, more lasting than marble, besides 
 giving his Library to this University. 
 
 28. I went to see their Colledge and Schooles, which are nothing 
 extraordinary, and was matriculated by the then Magnificus Professor, 
 who first in Latine demanded of me where my lodging in the towne was, 
 my name, age, birth, and to what faculty I addicted myself; then, re- 
 cording my answers in a booke, he administered an oath to me that I 
 should observe the statutes and orders of the University whiles I stay'd, 
 and then deliver'd me a ticket by virtue whereof I was made excise-free, 
 for all which worthy privileges and the paines of writing, he accepted 
 of a rix-dollar. 
 
 Here was the famous Dan. Heinsius, whom I so long'd to see, as 
 well as the Elzivirian printing-house and shop, renown'd for the polite- 
 ness of the character and editions of what he has publish'd through 
 Europe. I visited their garden of simples, w ch was indeede well stor'd 
 with exotic plants, if the Catalogue presented to me by the Gardiner be 
 a faithfull register. 
 
 I was much pleased with a sight of their Anatomy schole, theater, 
 and repository adjoyning, which is well furnish'd with natural curiosi- 
 ties ; skeletons from the whale and eliphant to the fly and spider, which 
 last is a very delicate piece of art, to see how the bones (if I may so 
 call them) of so tender an insect could be seperated from the mucila- 
 ginous parts of y 1 minute animal. Amongst a great variety of other 
 things, I was shew'd the knife newly taken out of a drunken Dutch- 
 man's guts by an incision in his side, after it had slipped from his 
 fingers into his stomach. The pictures of the chyrurgeon and his 
 patient, both living, were there. 
 
 There is without the Towne a faire Maill curiously planted. 
 
HOLLAND. 1^41.] 19 
 
 I was shew'd the statue, cut in stone, of the happy Monke whom 
 they report to have been the first inventor of Typography, set over the 
 doore ; hut this is much controverted by others, who strive for the 
 glory of it, besides John Guttenberg. 
 
 I was brought acquainted with a Burgundian Jew who had married 
 an apostate Kentish woman. I asked him divers questions ; he told 
 me, amongst other things, that the world should never end, that our 
 soules transmigrated, and that even those of the most holy persons did 
 pennance in the bodys of bruits after death, and so he interpreted the 
 banishment and salvage life of Nebucodnezer ; that all the Jewes 
 should rise againe and be lead to Jerusalem ; that the Romans only were 
 the occasion of our Saviour's death, whom he afnrm'd (as the Turks do) 
 to be a greate Prophet, but not the Messias ; he shewed me severall 
 bookes of their devotion, w ch he had translated into English for the 
 instruction of his wife ; he told me that when the Messias came, all the 
 ships, barkes, and vessells of Holland should, by the powere of cer- 
 taine strange whirle-winds, be loosed from their ankers and transported 
 in a moment to all the desolat ports and havens throughout the world 
 where ever the dispersion was, to convey their breathren and tribes to 
 the holy Citty ; with other such like stuff. He was a merry drunken 
 fellow. 
 
 I Sept. I went to Delft and Roterdam, and two days after back to 
 the Hague, to bespeake a suite of armore which 1 caused to be made to 
 fit me, with the harnesse of a horseman. I went to see one of the 
 Prince's Palaces, called The Hoff Van Hounslers Dyck, which is a 
 very magnificent cloyster'd and quadrangular building. The gallery is 
 prettily paynted with severall Huntings, and at one end a Gordian knot, 
 with several rusticall instruments so artificially represented as to deceive 
 an accurate eye, to distinguish it from actual relievo. The ceiling of 
 the staire-case is painted with the Rape of Ganymede, and other pen- 
 dent figures, the worke of F. Covenberg, of whose hand I bought an 
 excellent drollery, which I afterwards parted with to my brother George 
 of Wotton, where it now hangs*. To this Palace joynes a faire gar- 
 den and" parke, curiously planted w th limes. 
 
 * It is now there. 
 
20 [HOLLAND. 1^41. 
 
 8th Sept r to Rotterdam thro' Delfts-haven and Seedam, where was 
 at that time Coll: Goring' s winter-quarters. This towne has heretofore 
 been much talk'd of for witches. 
 
 10. I took waggon for Dort, to be present at y e reception of the 
 Queene Mother, Maria de Medices, Dowager of France, Widdow of 
 Henry the Greate, and Mother to the French King Lewis xiij and 
 the Queene of England, whence she newly arived, toss'd to and fro by 
 the various fortune of her life. From this Citty she design'd for Collin, 
 [Cologne] conducted by the Earle of Arundell and the Here Van Bre- 
 derod. At this interview I saw the Princesse of Orange, and the 
 Lady her daughter, afterwards married to the House of Brandenbourg. 
 There was little remarkable in this reception befitting the greatnesse of 
 her person, but an universal discontent, which accompany'd that 
 unlucky woman wherever she went. 
 
 12 Sep r . I went towards Bois le Duke. We arrived on the 16th, 
 when the New Citidall was advancing with innumerable hands, and in- 
 comparable inventions for draining off the waters out of the fenns about 
 it, being by bucketts, mills, cocklea's, pumps, and the like. Here 
 were now 16 companies and 9 tropes of horse. They were cutting a 
 new river to passe from the Towne to a Castle not far from it. Here 
 we split our skiff, falling fowle on another through negligence of the 
 master, who was faine to run on ground, to our no little hazard. A 
 Soldier convey'd us to the Governor, where our names were taken, and 
 o r persons examin'd very strictly. I was permitted to walk the round 
 and view the workes, and to visite a Convent of religious women of the 
 order of St. Clara, who by the capitulation were permitted to enjoy 
 their monastery and maintenance undisturbed at the surrender of the 
 towne 12 years since. We had a collation, and very civil entertaynment. 
 They had a neate Chapell, in which the heart of the Duke of Cleve, 
 their founder's, lies inhum'd under a plate of brasse. Within the Cloys- 
 ter is a garden, and in the middle of it an overgrowne lime-tree, out 
 of whose stem, neere the roote, issue 5 upright and exceeding tall suckers 
 or boles, the like whereof for evenesse and heighth I had not observ'd. 
 
 The cheife Church is curiously carved within and without, with a 
 paire of organs, and a most magnificent font, all of copper. 
 
HOLLAND. 1641.] 21 
 
 18th. I went to that most impregnable towne and fort of Hysdune, 
 where I was exceedingly obliged to one Coll: Crombe the Lieutenant 
 Governor, who would needes make me accept the honor of being Capt: 
 of the Watch, & to give the word this night. 
 
 18th. We departed towards Gorcum. Here S r Kenelme Digbv 
 travelling; towards Colin met us. 
 
 19th. We arived at Dort, passing by the Decoys, where they 
 catch innumerable quantities of fowle. 
 
 22. I went to Roterdam to receive a passe which 1 expected from 
 the Cardinal Infante, then Governor for his brother the K. of Spaine, in 
 Flanders, being desirous to see that country in my returne for England, 
 whither 1 was now shaping my course ; and within 2 days after, having 
 obtain'd another fr ra the Pr. of Orange, on the 24th Sep r I departed 
 through Dort, but met with very bad tempestuous weather, being several 
 times driven back, and oblig'd to lie at anker off Keele, other vessells 
 lying there waiting better weather. The 25th and 26th we made other 
 essays, but were driven back to the harbor, where lay 60 vessels waiting 
 to sail. But on the 2/th we, impatient of the tyme and inhospitable- 
 nesse of the place, sailed again with a contrary and impetuous wind, 
 and a terrible sea, in greate jeopardy, for we had much ado to keepe 
 ourselves above water, the billows breaking desperately on our vessel ; 
 we were driven into Williamstadt, a place garrison'd by the English, 
 where the Gov r had a faire house. The workes and especialy the Coun- 
 tercamp are curiously hedg'd with quick, and planted with a stately 
 row of limes on the Rampart. The church is of a round structure with 
 a Cupola. 
 
 28th. Failing of an appointement, I was constrained to returne 
 to Dort for a bill of exchange, but it was the 1 st of Oct r ere I could 
 get back ; at Keele I numbered 141 vessells who durst not yet venture 
 out ; but animated by the master of a stout bark, after a small en- 
 counter of weather, we ariv'd by 4 that evening at Stene-bergen. In 
 the passage we sailed over a sea call'd the Plaet, which is an exceeding 
 dangerous water, by reason of 2 contrary tydes which meete there very 
 impetuously. Here, because of the many shelfes, we were forc'd to 
 tyde it along the Channell ; but, ere we could gaine the place, the ebb 
 
22 [HOLLAND. 1641. 
 
 was so far spent, that we were compell'd to foote it at least a league 
 thro' a most pelting shower of raine. 
 
 2nd Oct r . I went in a cart (for it was no better, and no other acco- 
 modation could be procured) of 2 wheeles and one horse to Bergen-op- 
 Zome, meeting divers partys of his Highn s Army retiring towards their 
 winter quarters. The Fort was heretofore built by the English. 
 
 The next morning I embarked for Lillo, having refused a convoy of 
 horse which was afforded me. The tyde being against us, we landed 
 short of the Fort, on the beach, where we marched half leg deep in 
 mud ere we could gaine the dyke, w ch being 5 or 6 miles f rm Lillo, we 
 were forced to walke on foote very wett and discompos'd, and then en- 
 tering a boat we pass'd the Ferry, and came to the Castle. Being 
 taken before the Governor, he demanded my passe, to which he set his 
 hand, and asked 2 rix-dollars for a fee, \v cb methought appeared very 
 unhandsome in a Soldier of his quality. I told him that I had already 
 purchased my passe of the Commissaries at Roterdam ; at which, in a 
 greate fury snatching the paper out of my hand, he flung it scornfully 
 under a table, and bad me try whether I could get to Antwerp without 
 his permission ; but when I drew out the mony, he return'd it as scur- 
 vily again, bidding me pay 14 Dutch shill. to the Cantone, or Searcher, 
 for my contempt, which I was also glad to do with a greate deale of 
 caution and danger, concealing my Spanish passe, it being a matter of 
 imprisonment, for that the States were therein treated by the names of 
 Rebells. Besides all these exactions I gave the Com'issary 6 shill., to 
 the soldiers something, and 'ere perfectly cleare of this frontiere 31 
 stivers to the man of war who lay blocking up the river 'twixt Lillo 
 and the opposite sconce called Lifkinshoeck. 
 
 4th Oct r . We passed several Spanish Forts, out of one of which 
 came some Dons, to whom I shewed my Spanish passe, which wa s 
 signed by one, and I gave him 6 guilders. We pass'd by another 
 man of war, to which we lower'd our topsails ; and at length ariv'd at 
 Antwerp. 
 
 The lodgings here are very handsome and convenient. I lost little 
 tvme, but with the conduct of one Mr. Lewkner visited divers 
 Churches, Colledges, Monasteries, &c. The Church of the Jesuits 
 
FLANDERS. 1641.] 
 
 23 
 
 is most sumptuous and magnificent, a glorious fabriq without, and 
 within wholly incrusted with marble, inlay'd and polish'd into 
 divers representations of histories, landskips, flowers, &c. On the 
 high altar is plac'd the Statue of the B. Virgin and our Saviour in 
 white marble. The quire is a glorious piece ; the pulpet is supported 
 by foure angels, and adorn'd with other carvings. There are rare 
 pictures by Rubens, now latelv deceased, and divers votive tables 
 and reliques. The tower of Notre Dame d'Anvers, which is the Ca- 
 thedrall Church, is a very venerable fabriq, built after the Gotick 
 manner ; the Tower is of an excessive heigth. I assended it to take 
 a better view of the country. The sun shon exceeding hot, and darted 
 the rayes without any intermission, affording so bright a reflection to 
 us who were above, and had a full prospect of both land and water 
 about it, that I was much confirmed in my opinion of the moon's being 
 of some such substance as this earthy globe consists of ; perceiving 
 all the subjacent country, at so small a horizontal distance, to repercuss 
 such a light as I could hardly look against, save where the river, and 
 other large water within our view, appeared of a more dark and uni- 
 forme colour, resembling those spotts in the moone supposed to be seas 
 there, according to our new philosophy, and viewed by optical glasses. 
 
 We went to see Jerusalem Church, affirmed to have been founded by 
 one who, upon divers greate wagers, went to and fro betweene y* Citty 
 and Antwerp on foote, by which he procur'd greate sums of mony, 
 which he bestow'd in this pious structure. Hence to St. Mary's Cha- 
 pell, where I had some conference with two English Jesuites, Con- 
 fessors to Coll. Gage his regiment. These Fathers conducted us to y e 
 Cloyster of religious women, where we heard a Dutch sermon at a 
 Quarantia, or exposure of the Sacrament as they tearme it. The Senat- 
 house of this Citty is a very spacious and magnificent building. 
 
 5th Oct 1- I vissited the Jesuits schole, w ch for the fame of their me- 
 thod & institution I had greately desir'd to see. They were divided 
 into 4 classes with a several inscription over each ; as, 1. Ad majorem 
 Dei gloriam ; over the 2d, Princeps diligentice ; the 3d, Imperator 
 Byzantiorum ; over the 4th and upmost, Imperator Romanorum. 
 Under these the scholars and pupils had their places or formes, with 
 
24 [FLANDERS. 1641. 
 
 titles and priority according to their proficiency. Their dormitory and 
 lodgings above were exceeding neate. They have prisons for the of- 
 fenders and lesse diligent ; a court to recreate themselves in, wherein is 
 an aviary of birds, eagles, foxes, monkeys, &c. to divert the boys at 
 their times of remission. To the house joyn music and mathematical 
 scholes, and lastly a pretty chapell. The greate streete is built after a 
 mere Italian mode, and is very faire and noble, cleane and sweete. 
 
 The Oesters house, belonging to the East India Company, is a most 
 beautifull palace, adorn'd with more than 300 windows. From hence 
 walking into the Gun-garden, I was suffered to see as much of the 
 Citadell as is easily permitted to strangers. It is a matchless piece of 
 modern fortification, accomodated with logiaments for the souldiers and 
 magazines. The graffs, ramparts, and platforms, are stupendious. 
 Returning by the shop of Piantine, I bought some bookes for the name- 
 sake onely of that famous printer. 
 
 But there was nothing about this Citty which more ravished me than 
 those delicious shades and walkes of stately trees, which render the for- 
 tified workes of the towne one of the sweetest places in Europ ; nor did 
 I ever observe a more quiet, cleane, elegantly built, and civil place, 
 then this magnificent and famous Citty of Antwerp. In the evening I 
 was invited to Sig r Duert's, a Portuguese by nation, an exceeding rich 
 merchant, whose palace I found to be furnish'd like a prince's ; his 
 three daughters entertain'd us with rare musiq, vocal & instrumental, 
 w ch was finish'd with a handsome collation. I tooke leave of the Ladys, 
 and of sweete Antwerp, as late as it was, embarquing for Bruxelles 
 on the Scheld, in a vessel which delivered us to a second boate (in ano- 
 ther river) drawn or tow'd by horses. In this passage we frequently 
 chang'd our barge, by reason of the bridges thwarting our course. 
 Here I observed numerous families inhabiting their vessels, and 
 floating dwellings, so built and divided by cabins, as few houses on 
 land enjoy'd better accomodation, stor'd with all sorts of utensills, 
 neate chambers, a pretty parlour, and kept so sweete that nothing 
 could be more refreshing:. The rivers on which they are drawne are 
 very cleare & still waters, and passe through a most pleasant country 
 on both the bankes. We had in our boate a very good ordnary, and 
 
FLANDERS. l()41.] "5 
 
 excellent company. The cutt is straight as a line for 20 English miles. 
 What I much admir'd was, neere the midway, another artificial river, 
 which intersects this at right angles, but on an eminence of ground, 
 and is carried in an aqueduct of stone so far above the other as that 
 the waters neither mingle nor hinder one another's passage *. 
 
 At Villefrow all the passengers went on shore to wash at a foun- 
 taine issuing out of a pillar, and then came aboard again. On the 
 margin of this long tract are abundance of Shrines and Images, 
 defended from the injuries of the weather by niches of stone in which 
 they are placed. 
 
 7th Oct r . We arriv'd at Bruxelles at 9 in the morning. The State 
 house, neere the market-place, is for the carving in freestone a most 
 laborious and finished piece, well worthy observation. The flesh- 
 shambles are also built of stone. I was pleased with certain small 
 engines by which a girl or boy was able to draw up, or let downe, 
 greate bridges, w ch in divers parts of this Citty crossed y e channell, 
 for the benefit of passengers. The walls of this Town are very intyre, 
 and full of towers at competent distances. The Cathedrall is on a very 
 high and exceeding steepe ascent, to which we mounted by faire stepps 
 of stone. Hence I walked to a Convent of English Nunns, with whom 
 I sate discoursing most part of the afternoone. 
 
 8th Oct r . being the morning I came away, I went to see the Prince's 
 Court, which is an ancient, confus'd building, not much unlike the 
 Hoflft at the Hague ; there is here likewise a very large Hall, where 
 they vend all sorts of wares. Through this we passed by the Chapell, 
 which is indeed rarely arch'd, and in the middle of it was the hearse 
 or catafalco of the late Arch-Dutchesse, the wise and pious Clara Eu- 
 genia. Out of this we were conducted to the lodgings, tapistry'd 
 with incomparable arras, and adorn'd with many excellent pieces of 
 Reubens, old and young Breughel, Titian, and Stenwick, with stories 
 of most of the late actions in the Netherlands. 
 
 By an accident we could not see the Library. There is a faire ter- 
 race which looks to the Vine-yard, in which, on pedestalls, are fix'd 
 
 VOL.. I. 
 
 * As the Duke of Bridgewater's, in Lancashire. 
 E 
 
26 
 
 [FLANDERS. lf)41 
 
 the statues of all the Spanish Kings of the House of Austria. The 
 opposite walls are paynted hy Rubens, being an history of the late 
 tumults in Belgia ; in the last piece the Arch-Dutchesse shutts a 
 greate payre of gates upon Mars, who is coming out of hell, arm'd, 
 and in a menacing posture. On another, the Infanta is seen taking 
 leave of Don Philip. 
 
 From hence we walk'd into the Parke, which for being intirely 
 within the walls of the Citty is particularly remarkable ; nor is it less 
 pleasant than if in the most solitary recesses, so naturally is it furnish'd 
 with whatever may render it agreeable, melancholy, and country-like. 
 Here is a stately heronry, divers springs of water, artificial cascades, 
 rocks, grotts, one whereof is composed of the extravagant rootes of 
 trees cunningly built and hung together. In this Parke are both fallow 
 and red deare. 
 
 From hence we were led into the Manege, and out of that into a 
 most sweete and delicious garden, where was another grott, of more 
 neate and costly materials, full of noble statues, and entertaining us 
 with artificial musiq ; but the hedge of water, in forme of lattice-worke, 
 which the fontanier caused to ascend out of the earth by degrees, ex- 
 ceedingly pleased and surpris'd me, for thus with a pervious wall, or 
 rather a palisad hedge, of water, was the whole parterre environ'd. 
 
 There is likewise a faire Aviary, and in the court next it are kept 
 divers sorts of animals, rare and exotic fowle, as eagles, cranes, storkes, 
 bustards, pheasants of several kinds, a duck having 4 wings, &c. In 
 another division of the same close, are rabbits of an almost perfect 
 yellow colour. 
 
 There was no Court now in the Palace, the Infante Cardinal, who 
 was the Governor of Flanders, being dead but newly, and every one 
 in deepe mourning. 
 
 At near 11 o'clock, I repaired to his Majesty's Agent Sir Henry De 
 Vic, who very courteously receiv'd me and accomodated me with -a 
 coach & six horses, which carried me from Bruxelles to Gant, where 
 it was to meete my Lord of Arundel, Earle Marshal of England, who 
 had requested me when I was at Antwerp, to send it for him, if I went 
 not thither myselfe. 
 
FLANDERS. l6"41.] %7 
 
 Thus taking leave of Bruxelles and a sad Court, yet full of gallant 
 persons (for in this small Cittye the acquaintance being universal, Ladys 
 and Gentlemen, I perceiv'd, had greate diversions and frequent meetings}, 
 I hasted towards Gant. On the way I met with divers little wagons 
 prettily contrived and full of pedling merchandises, drawne by mastive- 
 dogs, harnessed compleately like so many coach-horses, in some 4, in 
 others 6, as in Bruxelles itselfe I had observed. In Antwerp I saw, as 
 I remember, 4 dogs draw 5 lusty children in a charriot : the master 
 com'ands them whither he pleases, crying his wares about the streetes. 
 After passing through Ouse, by 6 in the evening, I arriv'd at Ghent. 
 This is a Citty of so great a circumference that it is reported to be 7 
 leagues round, but there is not half of it now built, much remaining in 
 fields and pastures, even within the wall, which has strong gates 
 towards the West, and two faire churches. 
 
 Here I beheld the Palace wherein John of Gaunt and Cha. V. were 
 borne ; the statue of the latter stands in the Market-place, on an high 
 pillar, with his sword drawn, to which (I was told) the Magistrates and 
 Bergers were wont to repaire on a certaine day every yeare w th roaps 
 about their necks, in toaken of submission & pennance for an old Re- 
 bellion of theirs ; but now the hemp is changed to a blew ribbon. Here 
 is the Basilisco, or great Gun, so much talked of. The Ley and the 
 Scheldt meeting in this vast City divide it into 26 Islands, which are 
 united by many bridges, somewhat resembling Venice. This night I 
 supp'd with the Abbot of Andoyne, a pleasant and courteous priest. 
 
 8th Oct 1 ". I passed by boate to Bruges, taking in at a redoutt a 
 convoy of 14 musketeers, because the other side of the river being 
 Contribution land, was subject to the inroads and depredations of the 
 bordering States. This river was cut by the famous Marquiss Spinola, 
 and is in my judgment a wonderfull piece of labour, and is a worthy 
 publiq worke, being in some places forced thro' the maine rock, to an 
 incredible depth, for 30 miles. At the end of each mile is built a small 
 redout, which com'unicates a line to y e next, and so the whole way, 
 from whence we received many vollies of shot in compliment to my 
 L d Marshall, who was in o r vessel, a passenger with us. At 5 that 
 evening we were met by the Magistrates of Bruges, who came out to 
 
28 
 
 [flanders. 1641. 
 
 convey my Lord to his lodgings, where he was entertayned that night 
 at their cost. 
 
 The morning after we went to see the State-house and adjoyning 
 Aquaeduct, the Church, and Market-place, where we saw cheeses and 
 hutter piled up in heapes ; also the Fortifications and Grafts, which 
 are extreamly large. 
 
 The 9th we arived at Ostend by a straighte and artificial river. 
 Here, w*'" leave of the Captaine of the Watch, I was carried to survey 
 the river and harbour, with fortifications on one side thereof : the East 
 and South are mud & earth walls. It is a very strong place, and lately 
 stood a memorable siege 3 yeares, 3 moneths, 3 weeks, & 3 dayes. 
 I went to see the Church of St. Peter, and the Cloysters of the 
 Franciscans. 
 
 10th Oct 1- . I went by wagon, accompany'd w th a jovial Com'issary, 
 to Dynkirk, the journey being made all on y e sea sands. On o r arrival 
 we first viewed the Court of Guards, the Workes, the Towne-house, 
 and the New Church ; the latter is very beautifull within ; and another 
 wherein they shew'd us an excellent piece of our Saviour's hearing the 
 Crosse. The Harbour in two channels coming up to the Towne was 
 choaked w th a multitude of prizes. 
 
 From hence, the next day, I marched three English miles towards 
 the packet-boate, being a pretty fregat of 6 guns, which embarked us 
 for England about 3 in the afternoone. 
 
 At our going off", the Fort against which our pinnace ankered saluted 
 my Lord Marshall with 12 greate guns, which we answered with 3. 
 Not having the wind" favorable, we ankered that night before Calais. 
 About midnight we weighed ; and at 4 in the morning, tho' not far 
 from Dover, we could not make the Peere till 4 in the afternoon, the 
 wind proving contrary and driving us Westward ; but at last we got on 
 shore, Oct r the 12th. 
 
 From Dover I that night rod post to Canterbery. Here I visited 
 the Cathedrall, then in great splendour, those famous windows being 
 intire, since demolish'd by the Phanatiqs. The next morning by Sit- 
 tinbourn I came to Rochester, and thence to Graves-end, where a 
 Light-horse-man (as they call it) taking us in, we spent our tide as far 
 
1642.] 
 
 29 
 
 as Greenwich. From hence, after we had a little refresh'd ourselves at 
 the Colledge (for by reason of y e contagion then in London we baulked 
 the Inns), we came to London, landing at Arundel-stayres : here I 
 took leave of his Lordship, and retyred to my lodgings in the Middle 
 Temple, being about 2 in the morning. 
 
 16th Oct r . I went to see my brother at Wotton. On the 31st of 
 that moneth (unfortunate for the Irish Rebellion, which broke out on 
 the 23d) I was one and twenty yeares of age. 
 
 7 Nov. I visited my Lord Marshal at Albury. 
 
 23 Nov r . I returned to London ; and on the 25th saw his Majesty 
 ride thro' the Citty after his coming out of Scotland, and a Peace pro- 
 claym'd, w th greate acclamations and joy of the giddy people. 
 
 15th Dec r . I was elected one of the Comptrolers of the Middle 
 Temple-revellers, as the fashion of y e young Students and Gentlemen 
 was, the Christmas being kept this yeare with greate solemnity ; but 
 being desirous to passe it in the Country, I got leave to resigne my 
 statfe of office, and went with my brother Rich d to Wotton. 
 
 10th Jan y 1642. I gave a visite to my cousin Hatton of Ditton. 
 
 19. I went to London, where I stayed till 5th March, studying a 
 little, but dancing and fooling more. 
 
 3rd Oct r . I went to Chichester, and hence the next day to see the 
 Seige of Portsmouth, for now was that bloody difference betweene the 
 King and Parlm* broken out, which ended in the fatal tragedy so many 
 yeares after. It was on the day of its being render'd to Sir W m Waller, 
 which gave me an opportunity of taking my leave of Coll. Goring the 
 Governor, now embarqueing for France. 
 
 From thence I went to South'ton and Winchester, where I visited 
 the Castle, Schole, Church, and King Arthur's Round Table, but 
 especialy the Church, and its Saxon Kings Monuments, which I es- 
 teemed a worthy antiquity. 
 
 3 Oct. was fought that signal Battaile at Edgehill. 
 12th Nov 1- was the Battle of Braineford surprisingly fought, and to 
 the greate consternation of the Citty had his Majesty (as twas believed 
 he would) persu'd his advantage. I came in w th my horse and armes 
 just at the retreate, but was not permitted to stay longer than the 15th 
 
30 
 
 [1643- 
 
 by reason of the Army's marching to Glocester, which would have left 
 both me and my brothers expos'd to ruine, without any advantage to 
 his Ma tie . 
 
 7th Dec 1 ". I went from Wotton to London to see the so much cele- 
 brated line of com'unication, and on the 10th returned to Wotton, no 
 body knowing of my having ben in his Ma ties Army. 
 
 1643. 10th March. 1 went to Hartingfordberry, to visite my 
 cousin Keightly. 
 
 11th. I went to see my Lord of Salisbury's Palace at Hatfield, 
 where the most considerable rarity besides the house (inferior to few 
 then in England for its architecture) was the garden and vineyard 
 rarely well water'd and planted. They also shew'd us the picture of 
 Secretary Cecil in mosaiq worke, very well don by some Italian hand. 
 
 I must not forget what amazed us in the night before, viz. a shining 
 clowd in the avre, in shape resembling a sword, the point reaching to 
 the North : it was as bright as the moone, the rest of the sky being 
 very serene. It began about 11 at night, and vanish'd not till about 
 one, being seen by all the South of England. 
 
 I made many journies to and from London. 
 
 15 April. I went to Hatfield, and neere the Town of Hertford I 
 went to see Sir J. Harris [Harrison] his house new built *. Returning 
 to London, I called to see his Majesty's house and gardens at Theobalds, 
 since demolish'd by the rebels. 
 
 2nd May. I went to London, where I saw the furious and zelous 
 people demolish that stately Crosse in Cheapside. On the 4th I re- 
 turn'd, with no little regrett for the confusion that threaten'd us. 
 Resolving to possess myselfe in some quiet if it might be, in a time of 
 so great jealosy, I built by my Brother's permission a study, made a 
 jishpond, an island, and some other solitudes and retirements, at Wotton, 
 which gave the first occasion of improving them to those water-works 
 and gardens which afterwards succeeded them. 
 
 * Now called Balls Park, belonging to Lord John Townshend, who inherits it from his grand- 
 mother, Lady Viscountess Townshend, who was a Miss Harrison, and wife to Charles Viscount 
 Townshend, Secretary of State to George the Second. 
 
FRANCE. 1643.] 31 
 
 12 July. I sent my black manege horse and furniture with a friend 
 to his Ma tie then at Oxford. 
 
 23. The Covenant being pressed, I absented myselfe ; but finding it 
 impossible to evade the doing very unhandsome things, and which had 
 beene a greate cause of my perpetual motions hitherto between Wotton 
 & London, Oct. 2nd I obtayned a lycence of his Ma tie , dated at Oxford 
 and sign'd by the King, to travell againe. 
 
 6 Nov. Lying by the wav from Wotton at Sir Ralph Whitfield's, at 
 Blechinglee, (whither both my Brothers had conducted me), I ariv'd 
 at London on the 7th, and 2 days after took boate at the Tower- wharfe, 
 which carry 'd me as far as Sittingburne, tho' not without danger, I being 
 onely in a payre of oares, expos'd to a hideous storme ; but it pleas'd 
 God we got in before the perill was considerable. From thence I went 
 by post to Dover, accompany'd with one Mr. Thicknesse, a very deare 
 friend of mine*. 
 
 Having a reasonable good passage, though the weather was snowy 
 and untoward enough, we came before Calais, where, as we went on 
 shore, mistaking the tyde, o r shallop struck on y e sands, with no little 
 danger, but at length we got off. 
 
 Calais is well fortified, in the old Castle and new Citadell, reguarding 
 the Sea. The haven consists of a long banke of sand, lying opposite to 
 it. The Market-place and the Church are remarkable things, besides 
 the reliques of our former dominion there. I remember there was en- 
 graven in stone on the front of an ancient dwelling w c!l was shew'd us, 
 these words in English, God save the King, with the name of y e ar- 
 chitect and date. The walls of the towne are substantial, but the situa- 
 tion towards the land is not pleasant, by reason of the marishes and low 
 grounds about it. 
 
 12 Nov r . After diner we tooke horse with the Messagere, hoping 
 to have ariv'd at Bollogne that night ; but there fell so great a snow, 
 accompanied w th hayle, rain, and suddaine darknesse, that we had much 
 adoe to gaine the next village ; and in this passage being to crosse 
 a vally by a causeway and a bridge built over a small river, the raine 
 that had fallen making it an impetuous streame for neere a quarter 
 
 * The gentleman he mentioned as so much assisting his studies at Oxford, p. 7. 
 
32 [FRANCE. 1643- 
 
 of a mile, my horse slipping had almost been the occasion of my perish- 
 ing. We none of us went to bed, for the souldiers in those parts 
 leaving little in the villages, we had enough to do to get ourselves dry 
 by morning, between the fire and the fresh straw. The next day early 
 we ariv'd at Bollogne. 
 
 This is a double towne, one part on a high Rock, or downes, the 
 other, called y e Lower Towne, is yet w th a great declivity towards the 
 Sea. There is a strong Castle on a notable eminence. Under the 
 towne runs the river, which is yet but an inconsiderable brooke. Hen. 
 8th. in the siege of this place is said to have used those greate leatherne 
 guns which I have since seen in the Tower of London, incribed Non 
 Marte opus est, cui non deficit Mercurius, if at least the history be 
 true, w ch my Lord Herbert doubts *. 
 
 The next morning, in some danger of party's [Spanish] surprising 
 us, we came to Monstreuil, built on the sum'it of a most conspicuous 
 hill, environ'd with faire and ample meadows, but all the suburbs had 
 been from time to time ruin'd, and were now lately burnt by the Spa- 
 nish inroads. This towne is fortified with 2 very deep dry ditches ; 
 the walls about the bastions and citadal are a noble piece of masonary. 
 
 The Church is more glorious without then within. The Market- 
 place is large, but the inhabitants are miserably poore. The next day 
 we came to Abbeville, having pass'd all this way in continual expecta- 
 tion of the volunteeres, as they call them. This Towne affords a good 
 aspect towards the hill from whence we descended, nor does it deceive 
 us, for it is handsomely built, and has many pleasant and useful 
 streames passing through it, the maine river being the Some, which 
 discharges itselfe into the Sea at St. Valery, almost in view of the 
 towne. The principal Church is a very handsome piece of Gothiq 
 architecture, and the ports and ramparts planted for ornament. They 
 brought us choice of guns and pistolls to sell at reasonable rates, and 
 neately made, being here a merchandize of greate account, the towne 
 abounding in gun-smiths. 
 
 Hence we advanced to Beauvais, a town of good noate, and having 
 the first vineyards we had seen. The next day to Beaumont, and the 
 
 * In his History of that King. 
 
FRANCE. 1643.] 
 
 33 
 
 morrow to Paris, having taken our repast at St. Denys, 2 leagues from 
 that greate Citty. St. Denys is considerable only for its stately Cathe- 
 dral, and the dormitory of the French Kings, there inhum'd as ours 
 at Westmisf Abbey. The treasury is esteemed one of the richest in 
 Europe. The Church was built by King Dagobert, but since much 
 enlarged, being now 390 foote long, 100 in bredth, and 80 in height, 
 without comprehending the cover ; it has a very high shaft of stone, 
 and the gates are of brasse. In the choir are the sepulchres of the 
 most ancient Kings : without it are many more ; amongst the rest that 
 of Bertrand du Guesclin, Constable of France ; in the Chapell of Cha* 
 V. all his posterity, and neere him the magnificent sepulchre of Fran- 
 cis I. with his children, warres, victories, and triumphs, engraven 
 in marble. Above are bodies of several Saints ; below, under a state 
 of black velvet, the late Lewis xiij. Every one of the 10 chapels, or 
 oratories, had some Saints in them ; amongst the rest, one of the Holy 
 Innocents. The treasury is in the sacristy above, in which are crosses 
 of massy gold and silver, studded with precious stones, one of gold 3 
 feet high. Amongst the still more valuable reliques are a naile from 
 our Saviour's Cross, in a box of gold full of precious stones ; a crucifix 
 of the true wood of the Crosse, carved by Pope Clement III. inchas'd 
 in a crystal covered with gold ; a box in which is some of the Virgin's 
 haire ; some of the linnen in w ch our blessed Saviour was wrapped at 
 his nativity; in a huge reliquary modelled like a church, some of our 
 Saviour's blood, hair, cloathes, linnen with which he wiped the 
 Apostles feet ; with many other equally authentic reliques. Amongst 
 the treasures is the Crowne of Charlemagne, his 7 foote high scepter 
 and hand of justice, his sword, belt, and spurrs of gold ; the Crowne 
 of St. Lewis, cover'd with precious stones, amongst which is one vast 
 ruby, uncut, of inestimable value, weighing 300 carrats, (under 
 which is set one of the thorns of our blessed Saviour's crowne,) his 
 sword, seal, and hand of justice. The 2 crownes of Hen. IV. his 
 sceptre, hand of justice, and spurrs. The 2 crowns of his son Lewis. 
 In the cloak royal of Anne of Bretagne is a very greate and rare rubie. 
 Divers bookes cover'd with solid plates of gold and studded with pre- 
 cious stones. Two vasas of berill, 2 of achate, whereof one is 
 
 VOL. I. F 
 
34 [PARIS. 1643. 
 
 esteemed for its bignesse, colour, and carving imboss'd, the best now 
 to be seene ; by a special favour I was permitted to take the measure & 
 dimensions of it; the story is a Bachanalia. It is really antique. There 
 is a large gundola of chrysolite, a huge urn of porphyry, another of 
 ehalcedone, a vasa of onyx, the largest I had ever seen of that stone ; 
 2 of chrystal ; a morsel of one of the water-pots in which our Saviour 
 did his first miracle ; the effigies of the Queen of Saba, of Julius, Au- 
 gustus, Marc Antony, Cleopatra, and others, upon saphyrs, topazes, 
 agates, and cornelians ; that of the Queen of Saba has a Morish face ; 
 those of Julius and Nero on achates rarely colour'd and cut. A cup 
 in which Solomon was us'd to drinke. Apollo on a great amethyst. 
 There lay in a window a miroir of a kind of stone said to have belonged 
 to the poet Virgil. Charlemayne's chessemen, full of Arabiq charac- 
 ters. In the presse next the doore, the brasse lanthorn full of crystals, 
 said to have conducted Judas and his company to apprehend o r B. S. 
 A faire unicorne's horn, sent by a K. of Persia, about J foote long. 
 In another presse (over which stands the picture in oil of their Orleans 
 Amazon with her sword), the effigies of the late French Kings in wax, 
 like ours in Westminster, covered with their robes, with a world of 
 other rarities. Having rewarded o r courteous fryer, we tooke horse for 
 Paris, where we ariv'd about five in the afternoone. In the way were 
 faire crosses of stone carv'd with fleurs de lys at every furlong's end, 
 where they affirme St. Denys rested and layd down his head after mar- 
 tyrdom, carrying it from the place where this monastery is builded. We 
 lay at the Ville de Venice ; I went to visite Sir Rich d Browne, his 
 Ma t,ei Resident with the French King;. 
 
 5 Dec. The Earl of Norwich * came as Ambassador Extraordinary ; 
 I went to meet him in a coach and six horses, at the palace of Mons r de 
 Bassompiere, where I saw that gallant person, his gardens, terraces, and 
 rare prospects. My lord was waited on by the master of the ceremonies, 
 and a greate cavalcade of men of quality, to the Palais Cardinal, where 
 on the 23d he had audience of the French King and the Queen Regent 
 his mother, in the golden chamber of presence. From thence I con- 
 ducted him to his lodgings in Rue St. Denys, and so tooke my leave. 
 
 So created, having been George Lord Goring. 
 
PARIS. 1643] 
 
 35 
 
 24th. I went to see the Isle encompassed by the Seine and the 
 Oyse. The City is divided into 3 parts, whereof the Towne is greatest. 
 The City lyes between it and the University, in form of an island. 
 Over the Seine is a stately bridge called Pont Neuf, begun by Hen. 3. 
 in 1578, finished by Hen. 4. his successor. It is all of hewn free stone 
 found under the streets, but more plentifully at Mont-Martyre, and 
 consists of 12 arches, in the midst of which ends the poynt of an island, 
 on which are built handsome artificers houses. There is one large pas- 
 sage for coaches, and 2 for foot passengers 3 or 4 feet higher, and of 
 convenient breadth for 8 or 10 to go abreast. On the middle of this 
 stately bridge on one side stands that famous statue of Hen. the Great 
 on horseback, exceeding the natural proportion by much ; and on the 4 
 faces of a stately pedestal, (which is compos'd of various sorts of polish'd 
 marble and rich mouldings,) inscriptions of his victories and most sig- 
 nal actions are engraven in brasse. The statue and horse are of copper, 
 the worke of the greate John di Bologna, and sent from Florence by 
 Ferdinand the First, and Cosmo the 2d, unkle and cousin to Mary di 
 Medices, the wife of this K. Henry. It is inclos'd with a strong and 
 beautifull grate of yron, about which there are allways mountebancs 
 shewing their feates to idle passengers. From hence is a rare pro- 
 spect towards the Louver and suburbs of St. Germaines, the Isle of du 
 Palais, and Notre Dame. At the foote of this bridge is a water 
 house, on the front whereof, at a great height, is the story of our 
 Saviour and the Woman of Samaria powring water out of a bucket. 
 Above is a very rare dyal of severall motions, with a chime, &c. The 
 water is convey'd by huge wheeles, pumps, and other engines, from 
 the river beneath. The confluence of the people and multitude of 
 coaches passing every moment over the bridge, to a new spectator is 
 an agreeable diversion. Other bridges there are, as that of Notre 
 Dame ; and the Pont au Change, &c. fairly built, with houses of stone, 
 which are laid over this river : onlv the Pont St. Anne, landing the 
 suburbs of St. Germaine at the Thuilleries, is built of wood, having 
 likewise a water-house in the middst of it, and a statue of Neptune 
 casting water out of a whale's mouth, of lead, but much inferior to the 
 Samaritane. 
 
36 
 
 [PARIS. lt>43- 
 
 The University lyes South West on higher ground, contiguous to, 
 but the lesser part of Paris. They reckon no less than 65 Colleges, but 
 they in nothing approch ours at Oxford for state and order. The book- 
 sellers dwell within the University. The Scholes (of which more 
 hereafter) are very regular. 
 
 The suburbs are those of St. Denys, Honore, St. Marcel, Jaques, 
 St. Michel, St. Victoire, and St. Germaines, which last is the largest, 
 and where the nobility and persons of the best quality are seated ; and 
 truely Paris, comprehending the suburbs, is, for the material the 
 houses are built with, and many noble and magnificent piles, one of 
 the most gallant Cittyes in the world ; large in circuit, of a round 
 forme, very populous, but situated in a botome, environ'd w th gentle 
 declivities, rendering some places very dirty, and making it smell as if 
 sulphure were mingled w th the mudd ; yet it is pav'd with a kind of 
 free-stone, of neere a foote square, which renders it more easy to walk 
 on than our pebles in London. 
 
 On Christmas eve I went to see the Cathedrall of Notre Dame, 
 erected by Philip Augustus, but begun by K. Robert, son of Hugh 
 Capet. It consists of a Gotiq fabriq, supported by 120 pillars, which 
 make 2 ailes in the Church round about the quire, without comprehend- 
 ing the Chapells, being 174 paces long, 60 wide, and 100 high. The 
 Quire is enclos'd w th stone worke, graven with the sacred history, and 
 containes 45 Chapells cancell'd w th iron. At the front of the chiefe en- 
 trance are statues in relievo of the Kings, 28 in number, from Childe- 
 bert to the founder, Philip ; and above them are two high square Towers, 
 and another of a smaller size, bearing a Spire in the middle, where the 
 body of the Church formes a Crosse. The greate Tow'r is ascended by 
 389 steps, having 12 gallerys from one to y e other. They greately re- 
 verence the Crucifix over the skreene of y e Quire, w th an image of the B. 
 Virgin. There are some good moderne paintings hanging on the pil- 
 lars : the most conspicuous statue is the huge Colosse of St. Christopher, 
 w th divers other figures of men, houses, prospects, & rocks, about this 
 gygantiq piece, being of one stone, and more remarkable for its bulke 
 than any other perfection. This is the prime Church of France for dig- 
 nity, having Arch-deacons, Vicars, Canons, Priests, and Chaplaines 
 
PARIS. 1644.] 
 
 37 
 
 in good store, to y e number of 127- It is also the Palace of the Arch- 
 bishop. The young King was there w th a greate and martial guard, 
 who enter'd the Nave of the Church w th drums and fifes, at the ceasing 
 of which I was entertain'd with the church musiq. 
 
 1644. 4 Jan y . I pass'd this day with one Mr. Jo. Wall, an Irish 
 gentleman, who had been a Frier in Spaine, and afterwards a Reader in 
 St. Isodors Chayre at Rome, but was, I know not how, getting away, and 
 pretending to be a Souldier of fortune, an absolute Cavaliere, having as 
 he told us been Capt. of Horse in Germany. It is certaine he was an 
 excellent disputant, and so strangely given to it that nothing could 
 passe him. He would needes perswade me to goe with him this 
 morning to the Jesuites Colledge, to witnesse his polemical talent. 
 We found the Fathers in their Church at the Rue St. Anthoine, where 
 one of them shew'd us that noble fabriq, which for its cupola, pavings, 
 incrustations of marble, the pulpit, altars (especially the high altar), 
 organ, lavatorium, &c. but, above all, the richly carv'd and incom- 
 parable front, I esteeme to be one of the most perfect pieces of archi- 
 tecture in Europ, emulating even some of the greatest now at Rome 
 itself; but this not being what o r Frier sought, he led us into the ad- 
 joyning Convent, where having shew'd us the Library, they began a 
 very hot dispute on some poynts of Divinity, which o r Cavalier con- 
 tested onely to shew his pride, and to that indiscreete height that the 
 Jesuits would hardly bring us to our coach, they being put beside all 
 patience. The next day we went into the University, and into the 
 College of Navarre, which is a spacious well-built quadrangle, having 
 a very noble Library. 
 
 Thence to the Sorbonne, an antient fabriq built by one Robert de 
 Sorbonne, whose name it retaines, but the Restauration which the late 
 Cardinal de Richlieu has made to it renders it one of the most excellent 
 moderne buildings ; the sumptuous Church, of admirable architecture, 
 is far superior to the rest. The cupola, portico, and whole designe of 
 the Church is very magnificent. 
 
 We went into some of the Scholes, and in that of Divinity we found 
 a grave Doctor in his chaire, with a multitude of auditors, who all 
 write as he dictates ; and this they call a Course. After we had sate a 
 
38 
 
 [PARIS. 1644. 
 
 little, o r Cavalier started up, and rudely enough began to dispute w th the 
 Doct r ; at which, and especialy as he was clad in y e Spanish habit, 
 which in Paris is the greatest bugbare imaginable, the Scholars & 
 Doctor fell into such a fit of laughter that nobody could be heard speake 
 for a while ; but silence being obtain'd, he began to speake Latine, and 
 make his apology in so good a style, that their derision was turn'd to 
 admiration, & beginning to argue, he so baffled the Professor, that with 
 universal applause they all rose up and did him greate honors, waiting 
 on us to the very streete and our coach, testifying greate satisfaction. 
 
 3rd Feb. I went to the Exchange. The late addition to the build- 
 ings is very noble, but the gallerys where they sell their petty merchan- 
 dize are nothing so stately as ours at London, no more than the place 
 where they walke below, being onely a low vault. 
 
 The Palais, as they call the upper part, was built in y e time of 
 Philip the Faire, noble and spacious. The greate Hall annex'd to it 
 is arched with stone, having a range of pillars in the middle, round 
 which and at the sides are shops of all kinds, especialy Bookesellers. 
 One side is full of pewes for the Clearkes of the Advocates, who swarme 
 here (as ours at Westminster). At one of y e ends stands an altar, at 
 which Masse is said daily. Within are several Chambers, Courts, 
 Treasuries, &c. Above that is the most rich and glorious Salle d'Au- 
 dience, the Chamber of St. Lewis, and other superior Courts where the 
 Parliament sits, richly guilt on embossed carvings & fretts, and exceed- 
 ing beautified. 
 
 Within the place where they sell their wares is another narrower 
 gallery full of shopps and toys, &c. which lookes downe into y e Prison 
 yard. Descending by a large payre of stayres we passed by St. Cha- 
 pelle, which is a Church built by St. Lewis, 1242, after the Gotiq 
 manner ; it stands on another Church vv ch is under it, sustain'd by 
 pillars at y e sides, \v ch seeme so weak as to appear extraordinary in 
 y e artist. This Chapell is most famous for its Relicques, having, as 
 they pretend, almost the intyre Crowne of Thornes ; the Achat Patine, 
 rarely sculptur'd, judg'd one of the largest & best in Europ. There was 
 now a very beautifull Spire erecting. The Court below is very spacious, 
 capable of holding manv coaches, and surrounded with shopps, especially 
 
PARIS. 1644.] 39 
 
 Engravers, Goldsmiths, and Watchmakers. In it is a fayre Fountain^ 
 & Portico. The Isle du Palais consists of a triangular brick building, 
 whereof one side, looking to the river, is inhabited by Goldsmiths. 
 Within the court are private dwellings. The front looking on the 
 greate bridge is possess'd by Mountebanks, Operators, and Puppet- 
 players. On the other part is the every day's market for all sorts 
 of provisions, especially bread, hearbs, flowers, orange-trees, choyce 
 shrubbs ; here is a shop called Noah's Arke, where are sold all curio- 
 sities, naturall or artificial, Indian or European, for luxury or use, as 
 cabinets, shells, ivory, porselan, dried fishes, insects, birds, pictures, 
 and a thousand exotic extravagances. Passing hence we viewed the 
 Port Dauphine, an arch of excellent workmanship ; the street, bearing 
 the same name, is ample and straite. 
 
 4 Feb. I went to see the Marais de Temple, where is a noble 
 Church and Palace, heretofore dedicated to the Knights Templars, now 
 converted to a Piazza, not much unlike ours at Covent Garden, but 
 larger, and not so pleasant, tho' built all about with divers considerable 
 palaces. 
 
 The Church of St. Genevieve is a place of greate devotion, dedicated 
 to another of their Amazons sayd to have deliver'd the Citty from y e 
 English, for which she is esteem'd the tutelary Saint of Paris. It 
 stands on a steepe eminence, having a very high spire, and is govern'd 
 by Canons Regular. 
 
 At the Palais Royale Hen. IV. built a faire quadrangle of stately 
 Palaces, arched underneath. In the middle of a spacious area stands 
 on a noble pedestal, a brazen Statue of Lewis XIII. w ch tho made in 
 imitation of that in y e Roman Capitol, is nothing so much esteem'd as 
 that on y e Pont Neuf. 
 
 The Hospital of the Quinz-Vingts in Rue St. Honore is an excellent 
 foundation ; but above all is the Hotel Dieu for men and women, neare 
 Notre Dame, a princely, pious, and expensive structure. That of the 
 Charite gave me great satisfaction in seeing how decently and Chris- 
 tianly the sick people are attended, even to delicacy. 1 have seen them 
 served by noble persons, men and women. They have also gardens, 
 walks, & fountaines. Divers persons are here cutt for the stone with 
 
40 
 
 [PARIS. 1^44- 
 
 greate successe yearly in May. The 2 Chasteletts (supposed to have 
 been built by Julius Caesar) are places of Judicature in Criminal 
 Causes, to which is a strong Prison. The Courts are spacious and 
 magnificent. 
 
 8 Feb. I took coach and went to see the famous Jardine Royale, 
 which is an enclosure walled in, consisting of all varieties of ground 
 for planting and culture of medical simples. It is well chosen, having 
 in it hills, meadows, wood and upland, naturall and artificial, and is 
 richly stor'd with exotic plants. In the middle of the Parterre is a faire 
 fountaihe. There is a very fine house, chapel, laboratory, orangery, 
 & other accom'odations for the President, who is all ways one of the 
 King's cheife Physitians. 
 
 From hence we went to the other side of the towne, and to some 
 distance from it, to the Bois de Vincennes, going by the Bastille, w ch 
 is the Fortresse Tower and Magazine of this great Citty. It is very 
 spacious within, and there the Grand Master of the Artillery has his 
 house, with faire gardens and walks. 
 
 The Bois de Vincennes has in it a square and noble Castle, with 
 magnificent apartments, fit for a Royal Court, not forgetting the 
 Chapell. It is the chiefe Prison for persons of quality. About it there 
 is a parke walled in, full of deere, and in one part is a grove of goodly 
 pine-trees. 
 
 The next day I went to see the Louvre with more attention, its severall 
 Courts and Pavilions. One of the quadrangles, begun by Hen. IV. 
 and finish'd by his son and grandson, is a superb but mix'd structure. 
 The cornices, mouldings, & compartments, w th the insertion of severall 
 colour'd marbles, have been of great expence. 
 
 We went through the long gallery, pav'd w th white & black marble, 
 richly fretted and paynted ajresca. The front looking to the river, tho' 
 of rare worke for y e carving, yet wants of that magnificence which a 
 plainer and truer designe would have contributed to it. 
 
 Jn y L " Cour aux Thuilleries is a princely fabriq ; the winding geo- 
 metrical stone stayres, with the cupola, I take to be as bold and noble 
 a piece of architecture as any in Europ of the kind. To this is a Corps 
 de JLogis, worthy of so greate a Prince. Under these buildings, thro' 
 
paris. IG'44-] 
 
 41 
 
 a garden in which is an ample fountaine, was the King's printing- 
 house, and that famous letter so much esteem'd. Here I bought 
 divers of the classiq authors, poets & others. 
 
 We return 'd through another gallery, larger, but not so long, where 
 hung the pictures of all the Kings and Queenes and prime Nobility of 
 France. 
 
 Descending hence, we went into a lower very large room, call'd the 
 Salle des Antiques, which is a vaulted Cimelia, destin'd for statues 
 only, amongst which stands the so celebrated Diana of the Ephesians, 
 said to be the same which utter'd oracles in that temple. There is a 
 huge globe suspended by chaynes. The pavings, inlayings, and in- 
 crustations of this Hall are very rich. 
 
 In another more privat garden towards the Queene's apartment is a 
 walke or cloyster under arches, whose terrace is paved with stones of a 
 greate breadth ; it looks towards the river, and has a pleasant aviary, 
 fountaine, stately cypresses, &c. On the river are seene a prodigious 
 number of barges and boates of great length, full of hay, corne, wood, 
 wine, &c. Under the long gallery dwell goldsmiths, paynters, sta- 
 tuaries, and architects, who being the most famous for their art in 
 Christendom, have stipends allowed them by the King. We went 
 into that of Mon sr Saracin, who was moulding for an image of a Ma- 
 dona to be cast in gold, of a greate size, to be sent by the Queene 
 Regent to Lauretto, as an offering for the birth of the Dauphine, now 
 the young King. 
 
 I finish'd this day with a walke in the greate garden of the Thuil- 
 leries, which is rarely contrived for privacy, shade, or company, by 
 groves, plantations of tall trees, especialy that in y e middle, being of 
 elmes, another of mulberys. There is a labyrinth of cypresse, noble 
 hedges of pomegranates, fountaines, fishponds, and an aviary. There 
 is an artificial echo, redoubling the words distinctly, and it is never 
 without some faire nymph singing to it. Standing at one of the focus's, 
 which is under a tree, or little cabinet of hedges, the voice seems to 
 descend from the clouds ; at another as if it was under-ground. This 
 being at the bottom of y e garden, we were let into another, which 
 being kept with all imaginable accuratenesse as to the orangery, pre- 
 
 VOL. I. g 
 
42 
 
 [ST. CI.OES. lf)44. 
 
 cious shrubes, and rare fruites, seem'd a paradise. From a tarrace in 
 this place we saw so many coaches, as one would hardly think could 
 be maintained in the whole Citty, going, late as it was in the 
 year, towards the Course, which is a place adjoyning, of neere an 
 English mile long, planted with 4 rows of trees, making a large circle 
 in the middle. This Course is walled about, neere breast high, vv th 
 squar'd freestone, and has a stately arch at the entrance, with sculpture 
 and statues about it, built by Mary di Medices. Here it is that the 
 gallants and ladys of y e Court take the ayre and divert themselves, as 
 with us in Hide Park, the circle being capable of containing an hun- 
 dred coaches to turne com'odiously, and the larger of the plantations 
 for 5 or 6 coaches a brest. 
 
 Returning through the Thuilleries, we saw a building in which are 
 kept wild beasts for the King's pleasure, a beare, a wolfe, a wild 
 boare, a leopard, &c. 
 
 27 Feb. Accompany'd with some English gent", we tooke horse to 
 see St. Germains en Lay, a stately country-house of the King, some 
 5 leagues from Paris. By the way we alighted at St. Cloes, where, 
 on an eminence neere the river, the Archbishop of Paris has a garden, 
 for the house is not very considerable, rarely water'd and furnish'd 
 with fountaines, statues, and groves ; the walkes are very faire ; the 
 fountain of Laocoon is in a large square pool, throwing the water neere 
 40 feet high, and having about it a multitude of statues and basines, 
 and is a surprising object ; but nothing is more esteem'd than the 
 cascade falling from the greate stepps into the lowest and longest 
 walke from the Mount Parnassus, which consists of a grotto, or shell 
 house, on y e sum'it of the hill, wherein are divers water- workes and 
 contrivances to wet the spectators ; this is covered with a fayre cupola, 
 the walles paynted with the Muses, and statues placed thick about it, 
 whereof some are antiq and good. In the upper walkes are two per- 
 spectives, seeming to enlarge the allys. In this garden are many 
 other contrivances. The Palace, as I said, is not extraordinary. The 
 outer walles onely paynted a Jresca. In y e Court is a Volary, and the 
 statues of Cha s . IX. Hen. III. IV. and Lewis XIII. on horseback, 
 mezzo-relievod in plaster. In the garden is a small chapell ; and 
 
RUELL. 1644-] 
 
 43 
 
 under shelter is the figure of Cleopatra, taken from the Belvi- 
 dere original, \v th others. From the tarrace above is a tempest well 
 paynted, and there is an excellent prospect towards Paris, the mea- 
 dows, & river. 
 
 At an inn in this village is an host who treats all the greate persons 
 in princely lodgings for furniture and plate, but they pay well for it, 
 as I have don. Indeed the entertainment is very splendid, and not 
 unreasonable, considering the excellent manner of dressing their meate, 
 and of the service. Here are many debauches and excessive revellings, 
 being out of observance. 
 
 About a league farther we went to see Cardinal Richelieu's villa at 
 Ruell. The house is small, but fairely built, in form of a castle 
 moated round. The offices are towards the road, and over against it 
 are large vineyards walled in. 
 
 Though the house is not of the greatest, the gardens about it are so 
 magnificent that I doubt whether Italy has any exceeding it for all 
 rarities of pleasure. The garden nearest the pavilion is a parterre, 
 having in y c middst divers noble brasse statues, perpetually spouting 
 water into an ample bassin, with other figures of the same metal ; but 
 what is most admirable is the vast enclosure, and variety of ground, 
 in y e large garden, containing vineyards, cornefields, meadows, groves 
 (whereof one is of perennial greens), and walkes of vast lengthes, so 
 accurately kept and cultivated, that nothing can be more agreeable. On 
 one of these walkes, within a square of tall trees, is a basilisc* of 
 copper, w ch managed by the fountaniere casts water neere 60 feet high, 
 and will of itself move round so swiftly, that one can hardly escape 
 wetting. This leads to the Citroniere, where is a noble conserve of all 
 those rarities ; and at the end of it is the Arch of Constantine, painted 
 on a wall in oyle, as large as the real one at Rome, so well don that 
 even a man skill'd in painting may mistake it for stone and sculp- 
 ture. The skie and hills which seem to be betweene the arches are so 
 naturall that swallows and other birds, thinking to fly through, have 
 dashed themselves against the wall. At the further part of this walke 
 
 * The imaginary animal or 9erpent so called. 
 
44 
 
 [ST. GERMAIN'S. i6'44- 
 
 is that plentiful though artificial cascade which rolls down a very steepe 
 declivity, and over the marble steps and bassins, w tb an astonishing 
 noyse and fury ; each basin hath a jetto in it, flowing like sheetes of 
 transparent glasse, especialy that which rises over the greate shell of 
 lead, from whence it glides silently downe a channell thro' the middle 
 of a spacious gravel walke terminating in a grotto. Here are also foun- 
 taines y l cast water to a great height, and large ponds, 2 of which 
 have islands for harbour of fowles, of which there is store. One of 
 these islands has a receptacle for them built of vast pieces of rock, 
 neere 50 feet high, growne over with mosse, ivy, &c. shaded at a 
 competent distance with tall trees : in this the fowles lay eggs and 
 breede. We then saw a large and very rare grotto of shell-worke, in 
 the shape of satyres and other wild fancys : in y e middle stands a 
 marble table, on which a fountaine playes in forms of glasses, cupps, 
 crosses, fanns, crownes, &c. Then the fountaineere represented a 
 showre of raine from the topp, mett by small jetts from below. At 
 going out two extravagant musqueteeres shot us w th a streme of water 
 from their musket barrells. Before this grotto is a long poole into 
 which ran divers spouts of water from leaden escollop bassins. The 
 viewing this paradise made us late at St. Germains. 
 
 The first building of this palace is of Cha. V. called the Sage ; but 
 Francis I. (that true virtuoso) made it compleate, speaking as to the 
 style of magnificence then in fashion, which was w tb too greate a mix- 
 ture of y e Gotic, as may be seen in what there is remaining of his in 
 y e old Castle, an irregular peece as built on y e old foundation, and 
 having a moate about it. It has yet some spacious & handsome roomes 
 of state, & a chapell neately paynted. The new Castle is at some 
 distance, divided from this by a court, of a lower but more modern 
 designe, built by Hen. IV. To this belong 6 tarraces built of brick 
 & stone, descending in cascads towards the river, cut out of the naturall 
 hill, having under them goodly vaulted galleries ; of these, 4 have sub- 
 terranean grotts & rocks, where are represented severall objects in the 
 manner of sceanes, and other motions by force of water, shewn by the 
 light of torches onely ; amongst these is Orpheus w lh his musiq, & 
 theanimalls, w cb dance after his harp; in y e 2 d is the King and Dol- 
 
FARIS. 1^44.] 
 
 45 
 
 phin.*; in the 3 d is Neptune sounding his trumpet, his charriot drawne 
 by sea-horses; in the 4th Perseus & Andromeda ; mills; hermitages; 
 men fishing ; birds chirping ; and many other devices. There is also a 
 dry grott to refresh in, all having a fine prospect towards y e river and 
 the goodly country about it, especialy the forrest. At the bottom is 
 a parterre ; the upper tarrace neere half a myle in length, \v th double 
 declivities, arched and baluster'd vv th stone, of vast and royal cost. 
 
 In the Pavilion of y e new Castle are many faire roomes, well paynted, 
 and leading into a very noble garden and parke, where is a pall-maill, 
 in y c ' midst of which, on one of the sides, is a Chapell, with stone 
 cupola, tho' small, yet of an handsome order of architecture. Out of 
 y K parke you goe into y e forrest, which being very large is stor'd with 
 deare, wild boares, wolves, and other wild game. The Tennis Court 
 and Cavalerizzo for y c menag'd horses, are also observable. 
 
 We return'd to Paris by Madrid, another villa of the King's, built 
 by Francis I. and called by that name to absolve him of his oath that 
 he would not go from Madrid, in which he was prisoner in Spayne, 
 but from whence he made his escape. This house is also built in a 
 park, walled in. We next called in at the Bonnes hommes, well situ- 
 ated, with a faire Chapel & Library. 
 
 1 March. I went to see the Count de Liancourt's Palace 1 11 y c Rue 
 de Seine, which is well built. Towards his study and bedchamber 
 joynes a little garden, which tho' very narrow, by the addition of a 
 well painted perspective is to appearance greatly enlarged ; to this there 
 is another part, supported by arches, in which runs a streame of water, 
 rising in y L ' aviary, out of a statue, and seeming to flow for some miles, 
 by being artificially continued in the painting, when it sinkes downe 
 at the wall. It is a very agreeable deceipt. At the end of this garden 
 is a little theater, made to change w th divers pretty seanes, and the 
 stage so ordered that with figures of men & women paynted on light- 
 boards, and cut out, and, by a person who stands underneath, made to 
 act as if they were speaking, by guiding them, & reciting words in 
 different tones as the parts require. We were led into a round cabinet, 
 
 * Dauphin. 
 
46 
 
 [PARIS. 1644. 
 
 where was a neate invention for reflecting lights by lining divers sconces 
 with thin shining plates of gilded copper. 
 
 In one of the rooms of state was an excellent paynting of Poussin 
 being a Satyre kneeling ; over y e chimney, the Coronation of y e Virgin 
 by Paulo Veroneze ; another Madona over the dore, and y l of Jos. by 
 Cigali; in the Hall, a Cavaliero di Malta attended by his page, sayd 
 to be of Mich. Angelo ; the Rape of Proserpine, w th a very large land- 
 skip of Corregio. In y e next roome some payntings of Primaticcio, 
 especially the Helena, the naked Lady brought before Alexander, well 
 paynted, and a Ceres. In the bedchamber a picture of y e Cardinal de 
 Liancourt of Raphael, rarely colour'd. In y e cabinet are divers pieces 
 of Bassano, 2 of Polemburg, 4 of Paulo Brill, the skyes a little too 
 blew. A Madona of Nicholao, excellently painted on a stone ; a 
 Judith of Mantegna; 3 TVomen of Jeronimo ; one of Stenwick ; a 
 Madona after Titian, and a Magdalen of the same hand, as the Count 
 esteemes it : 2 small pieces of Paulo Veroneze, being the Martyrdoms 
 of St. Justina & St. Catherine ; a Madona of Lucas Van Leyden, sent 
 him from our King; 6 more of old Bassano; 2 excellent drawings of 
 Albert ; a Magdalen of Leonardo da Vinci ; 4 of Paulo ; a very rare 
 Madona of Titian, given him also by our King ; the Ecce Homo, shut 
 up in a frame of velvet, for the life and accurate finishing exceeding- 
 all description. Some eurious medals, and a chaplet of admirable 
 invention, the intaglias being all on fruit-stones. The Count was so 
 exceeding civill that he would needes make his Lady goe out of her 
 dressing-roome, that he might shew us the curiosities and pictures in it. 
 
 We went thence to visite one Mons. Perishot, ©ne of the greatest 
 virtuosos in France, for his collection of pictures, achates, medalls, and 
 flowers, especialy tulips & anemonies. The chiefest of his payntings 
 was a Sebastian of Titian. 
 
 From him we went to Mon sr . Frene's, who shew'd us many rare 
 drawings, a Rape of Helen in black chalke ; many excellent things of 
 Sneider ; some of Julio & Mich 1 . Angelo ; a Madona of Passignano ; 
 some things of Parmensis, & other masters. 
 
 The next morning being recom'ended to Mons. de Hausse, Pre- 
 sident du Parliament, and once Ambassador at Venice for the French 
 
CHARENTON. 
 
 King, we were very civily receiv'd, and shew'd his Library. Amongst 
 his paintings "were, a rare Venus $• Adonis of Veroneze, a St. Anthony 
 after the first manner of Corregio, and a rare Madona of Palma. 
 
 Sunday 6 March. I went to Charenton, 2 leagues from Paris, to 
 heare & see the manner of the French Protestant Churches service. 
 The place of meeting they call y e Temple, a very faire and spacious 
 roome, built of free-stone, very decently adorn'd with payntings of the 
 Tables of y e Law, the Lords Prayer & Creede. The pulpit stands at 
 the upper end in the middle, having an enclosure of seates about it, 
 where the Elders, & persons of greatest quality and strangers, sit; the 
 rest of y e congregation on formes & low stooles, but none in pewes as 
 in our Churches, to their greate disgrace & nothing so orderly, as 
 here the stooles & other comber are remov'd when y e assembly rises. I 
 was greatly pleas'd with their harmonious singing the Psalms, which 
 they all learn perfectly well, their children being as duely taught as 
 their Catechisme. 
 
 In our passage we went by that famous bridge over y e Marne, where 
 echo returnes the voice of a good singer 9 or 10 times. 
 
 7th March. I went with some company towards Fontainebleau, a 
 sumptuous palace of the King's, like ours of Hampton Court, about 
 14 leagues from the Citty. By the way we pass through a Forest so 
 prodigiously encornpass'd with hideous rocks of whitish hard stone, 
 heaped one on another in mountainous heights, that I think the like is 
 not to be found elsewhere. It abounds w th staggs, wolves, boares, 
 & not long after a lynx or ounce was kill'd amongst them, which had 
 devour'd some passengers. On the sum'it of one of these gloomy pre- 
 cipices, intermingl'd w th trees and shrubs, the stones hanging over, 
 & menaceing ruine, is built an Hermitage. In these solitudes rogues 
 frequently lurke & do mischiefe (8c for whom we were all well ap- 
 poyuted w th our carabines), but we arived safe in the evening at 
 the village, where we lay at the Home, going early next morning to 
 the Palace. 
 
 This house is nothing so stately and uniforme as Hampton Court, 
 but Francis I. began much to beautifie it; most of all, Hen. IV. and 
 not a little the late King. It abounds with faire halls, chambers, and 
 
48 
 
 [fontainbleau. 1644. 
 
 gallerys ; in the longest, which is 360 foote long, & 18 broad, are 
 paynted the Victories of that great Prince Hen. IV. That of Francis I. 
 call'd the grand Gallery, has all the King's Palaces paynted in it ; above 
 these, in 60 pieces of excellent worke in fresca i6 the History of Ulysses, 
 from Homer, by Primatiecio in the tyme of Hen. III. esteemed the 
 most renown'd in Europ for y e designe. The Cabinet is full of excellent 
 pictures, especialy a Woman of Raphael. In the Hall of the Guards is 
 a piece of tapistry painted on y e wall, very naturally, representing the 
 Victorys of Cha. VII. over our countrymen. In the Salle des Festins 
 is a rare Chimny-piece, & Hen. IV. on horseback, of white marble, 
 esteemed worth 18,000 crowns ; Clement ia & Pax, nobly don. On 
 columns of jasper, 2 lions of brasse. The new Stayres, and a halfe 
 circular Court, are of modern and good architecture, as is a Chapell 
 built by Lewis XIII. all of jasper, with several incrustations of marble 
 in the inside. 
 
 Having scene the roomes we went to y e Volary, w ch has a cupola in 
 the middle of it, greate trees and bushes, it being full of birds who 
 drank at two fountaines. There is a faire Tennis Court & noble Stables ; 
 but the beauty of all are the Gardens. In y e Court of y e Fountaines 
 stand divers antiquities and statues, especialy a Mercury. In y e 
 Queenes Garden is a Diana ejecting a fountaine, with numerous other 
 brasse statues. 
 
 The Greate Garden, 180 toises long and 154 wide, has in the centre 
 a fountayne of Tyber of a Colossean figure of brasse, with the Wolfe 
 over Romulus & Rhemus. At each corner of the garden rises a foun- 
 taine. In the Garden of the Fish Pond is a Hercules of white marble. 
 Next is the Garden of the Pines, and without that a Canale of an 
 English mile in length, at y e end of which rises 3 jettos in the form of 
 a fleur de lys, of a great height ; on the margin are excellent walkes 
 planted w th trees. The carps come familiarly to hand [to be fed]. 
 Hence they brought us to a spring, which they say being first discover'd 
 by a dog, gave occasion of beautifying this place, both w th the Palace 
 and Gardens. The rocks at some distance in the Forest yeald one of 
 the most august & stupendous prospects imaginable. The Parke about 
 this place is verv large, & the Towne is full of noblemen's houses. 
 
FRANCE. 1644.] 
 
 49 
 
 Next morning we were invited by a Paynter, who was keeper of y e 
 pictures and rarities, to see his owne collection. We were lead thro' a 
 gallery of old Rosso's worke, at the end of which, in another cabinet, 
 were 3 Madonas of Raphael, and 2 of Andrea del Sarto. In y e Aca- 
 demy where y e Paynter himselfe wrought, was a St. Michael of 
 Raphael, very rare; St. Jo. Baptist of Leonardo, & a Woman's head ; 
 a Queene of Sicily & St. Margaret of Raphael ; 2 more Madonas, 
 whereof one very large, by y e same hand ; some more of del Sarto ; a 
 St. Jerome of Perino del Vaga ; the Rape of Proserpine, very good ; 
 and a greate number of drawings. 
 
 Returning part of our way to Paris that day, we visited an house 
 cal'd Maison Rouge, having an excellent prospect, grott, & fountaines, 
 one whereof rises 50 feet, & resembles the noise of a tempest, battailles 
 of gunns, &c. at its issue. 
 
 We went to Essone, a house of Mons r Essling, who is a greate 
 Vertuoso ; there are many good payntings in it, but nothing so observ- 
 able as his gardens, fountaines, fishe-pooles, especialy y* in a triangular 
 forme, the water cast out by a multitude of heads about it ; there is a 
 noble cascade and pretty bathes, with all accommodations. Under a 
 marble table is a fountaine of serpents twisting about a globe. 
 
 We alighted next at Corbeil, a towne famous for the siege of 
 Hen. IV. Here we slept, & return'd next morning to Paris. 
 
 18 March. I went with S r Jo. Cotton, a Cambridg-shire Kn l . a 
 journey into Normandy. The first day we passed by Gaillon, the 
 Archbishop of Rouen's Palace. The gardens are highly com'ended, 
 but we did not go in, intending to reach Pontoise by dinner. This 
 towne is built in a very gallant place, has a noble bridge over the Oize, 
 and is well refresh'd w th fountaines. 
 
 This is the first towne in Normandy, and the farthest that the Vine- 
 yards extend to on this side of the country, which is fuller of playnes, 
 wood, and enclosures, w th some townes towards y e sea, very like 
 England. 
 
 We lay this night at a vilage call'd Magny. The next day, descending 
 a very steepe hill, we din'd at Fleury, and after rode 5 leagues downe 
 St. Catharine, to Rouen, which affords a goodly prospect to the ruines 
 
 vol. 1. H 
 
50 [FRANCE. 1644. 
 
 of that chapell & mountaitie. This country so abounds with wolves, 
 that a shepherd whom we met told us one of his companions was 
 strangled by one of them the day before, & that in the midst of his 
 flock. The feilds are mostly planted w th pears & apples & other cider 
 fruites. It is plentifully furnish'd w th quarries of stone & slate, & hath 
 iron in abundance. 
 
 I lay at the White Crosse in Rouen, which is a very large Citty, on 
 y e Seine, having two smaller rivers besides, call'd y e Aubelt and Lobes 
 There stand yet the ruines of a magnificent bridge of stone, now sup- 
 ply'd by one of boates only, to which come up vessells of considerable 
 burthen. The other side of y e water consists of meadows, and there 
 have y e Reformed a Church. 
 
 The Cathedrall Nostre Dame was built, as they acknowledge, 
 by the English ; some English words graven in Gotic characters 
 upon the front seeme to confirm it. The Towers & whole Church 
 are full of carving. It has 3 steeples w th a pyramid ; in one of 
 these I saw the famous bell so much talk'd off, 13 foote in height, 
 32 round, the diameter 11, weighing 40,000 pounds. In the Chapel 
 of Amboise, built by a Cardinal of that name, lies his body, with 
 several faire monuments. The Quire has behind it a greate dragon 
 paynted on the wall, w ch they say had don much harme to the inha- 
 bitants till vanquished by St. Romain their Archbishop, for which 
 there is an annual procession. It was now neere Easter, and many 
 images were expos'd with scenes & stories representing y e Passion, 
 made up of little puppets, to which there was great resort and devotion, 
 with offerings. Before the Church is a faire Palace. — St. Owen is an- 
 other goodly Church and an Abby w th fine gardens. Here the King 
 hath lodgings when he makes his progresse through these parts. The 
 structure where the Court of Parliament is kept is very magnificent, 
 containing very faire halles & chambers, especialy La Chambre d'Ore'e. 
 The Towne-house is also well built, and so are some gentlemen's 
 houses ; but most part of the rest are of timber, like our merchants of 
 London, in the wooden part of the Citty. 
 
 21 March. On Easter Monday we din'd at Totes, a solitary inn 
 between Rouen & Diepe, at which latter place we arived. This towne 
 
FRANCE. 1644.] 51 
 
 is situated betweene two mountaines, not unpleasantly, and is washed 
 on y e North by our English seas. 
 
 The Port is com'odious, but the entrance is difficult. It has one 
 ample & faire streete, in which is a pretty church. The Fort Pollet 
 consists of a strong earth- worke, and com'ands the Haven, as on the 
 other side dos the Castle, which is also well fortified, w th the Citadel 
 before it ; nor is the Towne itself a little strong. It abounds with 
 workmen, who make and sell curiosities of ivory and tortoise-shells ; & 
 indeed whatever the East Indies afford of cabinets, purcelan, natural & 
 exotic rarities, are here to be had w 11 ' abundant choyce. 
 
 23 March. We pass'd along the Coast by a very rocky and rugged 
 way, which fore'd us to alight many times before we came to Havre de 
 Grace, where we lay that night. 
 
 The next morning we saw the Citadel, strong and regular, well 
 stored with artillery, &c. The works furnish'd with faire brasse canon, 
 having a motto, Ratio ultima Begum. The allogiaments of the garri- 
 son are uniforme ; a spacious place for drawing up the soldiers, a pretty 
 chapell, and a faire house for the Governor. The Duke of Richelieu 
 being now in the fort, we went to salute him ; who receiv'd us very 
 civily, and com'anded that we should be show'd whatever we desired 
 to see. The Citadel was built by the late Card, de Richelieu, unkle of 
 the present Duke, and is very strong. The haven is very capacious. 
 
 We embarqued ourselves and horses to passe to Honfleur, about 4 
 or 5 leagues distant, where the Seine falls into the Sea. It is a poore 
 fisher towne, remarkable for nothing so mucb as the odd yet usefull 
 habites which the good women weare, of beares and other skinns, as 
 of raggs at Dieppe, and all along these coasts. 
 
 25 March. We ariv'd at Caen, a noble and beautifull towne, on 
 the river Orne, which passes quite thro' it, the 2 sides of the towne 
 joyn'd only by a bridg of one arch. We lay at the Angel, where we 
 were very well us'd, the place being abundantly furnish'd with provi- 
 sions at a cheape rate. 
 
 The most considerable object is the great Abby and Church, large 
 and rich, built after the Gotic manner, having two spires and middle 
 lanterne at the West end, all of stone. The quire round and large, 
 
52. 
 
 [FRANCE. 1644. 
 
 in y e centre whereof, elevated on a square, handsome, but plain se- 
 pulchre, is this inscription : 
 
 " Hoc Sepulchrum invictissimi juxta et clementissimi Conquestoris, Guli- 
 elmi, dum viveret Anglorum Regis, Normannorum Caenomanorumque Prin- 
 cipis, hujus insignis Abbatiae piissimi Fundatoris: Cum anno 1562 vesano 
 hereticorum furore direptum fuisset, pio tandem nobilium ejusdem Abbatiae 
 religiosorum gratitudinis sensu in tam beneticum largitorem, instauratum fuit, 
 a° D'ni 16*42. D'no Johanne de Baulhache ascetarii Protopriore. P. D. D. P." 
 
 On the other side are these monkish rhymes : 
 
 " Qui rexit rigidos Normanos, atq. Britanos 
 Audacter vicit, fortiter obtinuit, 
 Et Caenomanenses virtute coSrcuit enses, 
 
 Imperiique sui legibus applicuit, 
 Rex magnus parva. jacet hie Gulielm* in urna, 
 
 Sufficit et magno parva domus Domino. 
 Ter septem gradibus se volverat atq. duobus 
 Virginis in gremio Phoebus, et hie obiit." 
 
 We went to y e Castle, which is strong and fayre, and so is the 
 Towne-house, built on the bridg which unites the two townes. Here 
 are Scholes and an University for the Jurists. 
 
 The whole Town is handsomly built of y* excellent stone so well 
 knowne by that name in England. I was lead to a pretty garden, 
 planted with hedges of Alaternus, having at the entrance a skreene at 
 an exceeding height, accurately cutt in topiary worke, with well under- 
 stood Architecture, consisting of pillars, niches, freezes, and other orna- 
 ments, w th greate curiosity ; some of the columns wreathed, others 
 spiral, all according to art. 
 
 28 March. We went towards Paris, lying the first night at Evreux, 
 a Bishop's seate, an ancient Towne, w th a faire Cathedral. 
 
 The next day we arived at Paris. 
 
 1 April. I went to see more exactly the roomes of the fine Palace 
 of Luxemburge, in the Fauxbourg St. Germains, built by Mary de 
 Medices, and I think one of the most noble, entire, and finish'd piles, 
 that is to be seen, taking it with the garden and all its accomplish- 
 ments. The gallery is of the painting of Rubens, being the history of 
 the Foundresses life, rarely designed ; at the end of it is the Duke of 
 
FRANCE. 1644.] 
 
 53 
 
 Orleans's Library, well furnished w ih excellent bookes, all bound in 
 maroquin and gilded, the valans of the shelves being of greene velvet, 
 fring'd with gold. In the cabinet joyning it are onely the smaler 
 volumes, with 6 cabinets of medails, and an excellent collection of shells 
 and achates, whereof some are prodigiously rich. This Duke being 
 very learn'd in medails and plants, nothing of that kind escapes him. 
 There are other spacious, noble, and princely furnish'd roomes, which 
 looke towards the gardens, which are nothing inferior to the rest. 
 
 The Court below is formed into a square by a corridor, having over 
 the chiefe entrance a stately cupola, covered with stone ; the rest is 
 cloistered and arch'd on pillasters of rustiq worke. The tarrace ascend- 
 ing before the front, pav'd w th white and black marble, is balustred with 
 white marble, exquisitely polish'd. 
 
 Onely the Hall below is low, and the stayrecase somewhat of an 
 heavy designe, but the faciata towards the parterre, which is also arched 
 & vaulted w th stone, is of admirable beauty, and full of sculpture. 
 
 The Gardens are neere an English mile in compasse, enclos'd w th a 
 stately wall, and in a good ay re. The parterre is indeed of box, but so 
 rarely design'd and accurately kept cut, that the embroidery makes a 
 wonderful effect to the lodgings which front it. 'Tis divided into 4 
 squares, & as many circular knots, having in y e center a noble basin 
 of marble neere 30 f [ diameter (as I remember), in which a triton of 
 brasse holds a dolphin that casts a girandola of water neere 30 foote 
 high, playing perpetualy, the water being convey 'd from Arceuil by 
 an aqueduct of stone, built after y e old Roman magnificence. About 
 this ample parterre, the spacious walkes & all included, runs a border of 
 freestone, adorn'd w th pedestalls for potts and statues, and part of it 
 neere the stepps of the terrace, with a raile and baluster of pure white 
 marble. 
 
 The walkes are exactly faire, long, & variously descending, and so 
 justly planted with limes, elms, & other trees, that nothing can be 
 more delicious, especially that of the hornebeam hedge, w ch being high 
 and stately, butts full on the fountaine. 
 
 Towards the farther end is an excavation intended for a vast fish- 
 pool, but never finish'd. Neere it is an inclosure for a garden of 
 
54 
 
 [franxe. IC44. 
 
 simples, well kept, and here the Duke keepes tortoises in greate 
 number, who use the poole of water on one side of the garden. Here is 
 also a conservatory for snow. At the upper part towards the Palace is 
 a grove of tall elmes cutt into a starr, every ray being a walk, whose 
 center is a large fountaine. 
 
 The rest of the ground is made into severall inclosures (all hedge- 
 worke or rowes of trees) of whole fields, meadowes, boxages, some of 
 them containing divers acres. 
 
 Next the streete side, and more contiguous to y e house, are knotts 
 in trayle or grasse worke, where likewise runs a fountaine. Towards 
 the grotto and stables, within a wall, is a garden of choyce flowers, 
 in which the Duke spends many thousand pistoles. In sum, nothing 
 is wanting to render this palace and gardens perfectly beautifull & mag- 
 nificent ; nor is it one of the least diversions to sec the number of 
 persons of quality, citizens and strangers, who frequent it, and to whom 
 all accesse is freely permitted, so that you shall see some walkes & 
 retirements full of gallants and ladys ; in others melancholy fryers ; in 
 others studious scholars ; in others jolly citizens, some sitting or lying 
 on y e grasse, others runing, jumping, some playing at bowles and 
 ball, others dancing and singing; and all this without the least dis- 
 turbance, by reason of the largeness of the place. 
 
 What is most admirable is, you see no gardners or men at worke, 
 and yet all is kept in such exquisite order as if they did nothing else 
 but work ; it is so early in the morning, that all is dispatch'd and don 
 without y e least confusion. 
 
 I have been y e larger in the description of this Paradise, for the 
 extraordinary delight I have taken in those sweete retirements. The 
 Cabinet and Chapell neerer y e garden front have some choyce pictures. 
 All the houses neere this are also noble palaces, especialy petite Lux- 
 emhurg-e. The ascent of the streete is handsome from its breadth, 
 situation, and buildings. 
 
 I went next to view Paris from the top of St. Jacques steeple, 
 esteem'd the highest in the towne, from whence I had a full view of 
 the whole Citty and suburbs, both which, as I judge, are not so large as 
 London ; though the dissimilitude of their formes and situations, this 
 
FRANCE. 1644.] 
 
 round, London long", renders it difficult to determine ; but there is no 
 comparison between the buildings, palaces, and materials, this being 
 entirely of stone and more sumptuous, tho' I esteeme our piazza's to 
 exceede their's. 
 
 In St. Innocent's Church-yard, where the story of the devouring 
 quality of the ground (consuming bodys in 24 hours), the vast charnells 
 of bones, tombs, piramids, and sepulchres, took up much of my time, 
 together with the hieroglyphical characters of Nicolas Flamen's philo- 
 sophical worke, who had founded this church, and divers other cha- 
 ritable workes, as he testifies in his booke. 
 
 Here divers clarks get their livelyhood by inditing lett rs for poor 
 mayds & other ignorant people who come to them for advise, & to 
 write for them into y e Country, every large grave-stone serving for a 
 table. Joyning to this Church is a com'on fountaine, with good 
 relievo's on it. 
 
 The next day I was carried to see a French gentleman's curious col- 
 lection, which abounded in faire & rich jewels of all sorts of precious 
 stones^ most of them of greate sizes and value ; achates and onixes, 
 some of them admirably colour'd & antique ; nor inferior were his 
 landskips from the best hands, most of which he had caused to be 
 copy'd in miniature ; one of which, rarely painted on stone, was broken 
 by one of our company, by the mischance of setting it up; but such 
 was the temper & civility of the gentleman, that it altered nothing of 
 his free & noble humor. 
 
 The next morning I went to the Garden of Mons r . Morine, who 
 from being an ordinary gardner is become one of y e most skillful & 
 curious persons in France for his rare collection of shells, flowers, & 
 insects. 
 
 His Garden is of an exact oval figure, planted w th cypresse cutt flat 
 & set as even as a wall : the tulips, anemonies, ranunculus's, crocus's, 
 &c. are held to be of the rarest, and draw all the admirers of such 
 things to his house during the season. He lived in a kind of Hermitage 
 at one side of his garden, where his collection of purselan and coral, 
 whereof one is carved into a large Crucifix, is much esteemed. He has 
 also bookes of prints, by Albert [DurcrJ, Van Leyden, Calot, &c. 
 
56 
 
 [FRANCE. 1644. 
 
 His collection of all sorts of insects, especialy of Butterflys, is most 
 curious ; these he spreads and so medicates that no corruption invading 
 them, he keepes them in drawers, so plac'd as to represent a beautifull 
 piece of tapistry. 
 
 He shew'd me the remarks he had made on their propagation, 
 w ch he promis'd to publish. Some of these, as also of his best 
 flowers, he had caus'd to be painted in miniature by rare hands, and 
 some in oyle. 
 
 I went to see divers of the fairest Palaces, as that of Vendosme, very 
 large and stately ; Longueville ; Guyse ; Condi ; Chevereuse ; Nevers, 
 esteem'd one of the best in Paris towards the river. 
 
 I often went to the Palais Cardinal, bequeathed by Richelieu to the 
 King, on- condition that it should be called by his name ; at this time 
 the King resided in it because of the building of the Louvre. It is a 
 very noble house, tho' somewhat low ; the gallerys, paintings of the 
 most illustrious persons of both sexes, the Queenes bathes, presence 
 chamber with its rich carved and gilded roofe, theatre, & large garden, 
 in which is an ample fountaine, grove and maille, are worthy of remark. 
 Here I also frequently went to see them ride and exercise the Greate 
 Horse, especialy at the Academy of Mons r . du Plessis, and de Veau, 
 whose scholes of y l art are frequented by the Nobility ; and here also 
 young gentlemen are taught to fence, daunce, play on musiq, and 
 something in fortification & y e mathematics. The designe is admirable, 
 some keeping neere an hundred brave horses, all managed to y e greate 
 saddle. 
 
 12th. I took coach to see a general muster of all the gens d'armes 
 about y e Citty in the Bois de Boulogne before their Majesties and all y e 
 Grandees. They were reputed to be neere 20,000, besides the spec- 
 tators who much exceeded them in number. Here they performed all 
 their motions, and being drawne up, horse & foote, into several figures, 
 represented a battell. 
 
 The sum'er now drawing neere, I determined to spend the rest of it 
 in some more remote towne on the river Loire; and on 19 April I 
 tooke leave of Paris, and, by the way of the messenger, agreed for my 
 passage to Orleans, 
 
FRANCE. 1644.] 
 
 The way, as indeed most of the roades in France, is paved with a 
 small square free-stone, so that there is little dirt and bad roads, as in 
 England, onely 'tis somewhat hard to y e poore horses feete, which 
 causes them to ride more temperately, seldom going out of the trot, or 
 grand pas, as they call it. We pass'd several wall'd townes or villages; 
 amongst others of note, Chartres and Estampes, where we lay the first 
 night. This has a faire church. 
 
 20 April. We had an excellent road, but had like to come short 
 home ; for no sooner were we entred two or three leagues into y e Forest 
 of Orleans (which extends itself many miles), but the company behind 
 us were set on by rogues, who, shooting from y e hedges and frequent 
 covert, slew foure upon the spot. This disaster made such an alarme in 
 Orleans at o r arival, that the Prevost Martial, vv th his assistants, going 
 in persuite, brought in two whom they had shot, and exposed them in 
 y e greate market-place, to see if any would take cognizance of y ,n . 1 
 had greate cause to give God thankes for this escape. I lay at the 
 White Lion, where I found Mr. John Nicholas, eldest son to Mr. Se- 
 cretary [Nicholas]. In the night, a cat kitten'd on my bed, and left on 
 it a young one having six ears, eight leggs, two bodys from the navil 
 downwards, and two tayles. I found it dead, but warm, in the morning 
 when I awaked. 
 
 21 April. The citty is well built of stone, on the side of the Loyre. 
 About the middle of y e river is an island, full of walkes and faire trees, 
 with some houses. There is a stately stone bridge, reaching to the 
 opposite suburbs, built likewise on the edge of an hill, from whence is 
 a beautifull prospect. At one end of the bridge are strong toures, and 
 about the middle, on one side, is the statue of y e Virgin Mary or Pieta, 
 with the dead Christ in her lap, as big as the life. At one side of the 
 Crosse kneeles Cha. VII. arm'd, and at y e other, Joan d'Arc, arm'd 
 like a cavalier, w th boots and spurrs, her hayre dischevel'd, as the deli- 
 veress of the towne from our countrymen, when they besieg'd it. The 
 figures are all cast in copper, with a pedistall full of inscriptions, as well 
 as a faire columne joyning it, which is adorn'd with fleurs de lys and a 
 crucifix, w th two saints proceeding as it were from two branches out 
 of its capital. The inscriptions on the Crosse are in Latine : " Mors 
 
 vol. 1. 1 
 
58 
 
 [FRANCE. 1644. 
 
 Christi in cruce nos a contagions labis et aeturnorum morborum sanavit." 
 On the pedestal : " Rex in hoc signo hostes profligavit, et Johan'a 
 Virgo Aureliam obsidio liberavit. Non din ab impiis diruta, restituta 
 sunt hoc anno D'ni 1 578. Jean Buret, m. f." — " Octannoq' Galliam 
 servitute Britannica liberavit. A Domino factum est illud, et est mira- 
 bile in oculis nostris ; in quorum memoria haec nostrae fidei Insignia." 
 To this is made an annual procession on 12 May, Masse being sung 
 before it, attended with great ceremony and concourse of people. The 
 wine of this place is so strong, that the King's cup-bearers are, as I 
 was assured, sworne never to give the King any of it ; but it is a very 
 noble liquor, and much of it transported into other countrys. The 
 town is much frequented by strangers for the greate purity of the lan- 
 guage here spoken, as well as for divers other priviledges ; and the 
 University makes the towne much frequented by strangers, especialy 
 Germans, which causes the English to make no long sojourne hear, 
 except such as can drinke and debauch. The Citty stands in the County - 
 of Beaulse, was once stiled a Kingdom, afterwards a Dutchy, as at pre - 
 sent, belonging to the second son of France. Many Councils have been 
 held here, and 'some Kings crown'd. The University is very antient, 
 divided now by the students into that of four nations, French, High 
 Dutch, Normans, and Picardins, who have each their respective pro- 
 tectors, severall officers, Treasurers, Consuls, Seales, &c. There are in 
 it two reasonable faire publiq Libraries, whence one may borrow a booke 
 to one's chamber, giving but a note under hand, w oh is an extraordinary 
 custome, and a confidence that has cost many Libraries deare. The 
 first church I went to visit was St. Croix ; it has been a stately fabric, 
 but has been much ruin'd by the late Civil Warrs. They report the 
 towre of it to have been the highest in France. There is the beginning 
 of a faire reperation. About this cathedrall is a very spacious cemeterie. 
 The towne-hous is nobly built, with a high tower to it. The market- 
 place and streetes, some whereof are deliciously planted with limes, are 
 ample and straite, so well paved w th a kind of pebble, that I have not 
 seen a neater towne in France. This Citty was by Francis I. esteemed 
 the most agreable of his great dominions. 
 
FRANCE. 1644.] 59 
 
 28 April. Taking boate on the Loir, I went towards Blois, the 
 passage and river being both very pleasant. Passing Mehun, we dined 
 at Baugency, and slept at a little towne called St. Dieu. Quitting our 
 barke, we hired horses to Blois, by the way of Chambourg, a famous 
 house of y e King's, built by Francis 1. in y e middle of a solitary parke, 
 full of deere ; the enclosure is a wall. I was particularly desirous of 
 seeing this palace, from the extravagance of the designe, especialy the 
 stayre-case, mentioned by Palladio. It is said that 1800 workmen 
 were constantly employ'd in this fabriq for twelve yeares ; if so, it is 
 wonderfull that it was not finish'd, it being no greater than divers gen- 
 tlemen's houses in England, both for rome or circuit. The carvings are 
 very rich and full. The stayre-case is devised w th four entries or ascents, 
 which cross one another, so that tho' four persons meete, they never 
 come in sight, but by small loopeholes, till they land. It consists of 
 274 stepps (as I remember), and is an extraordinary worke, but of far 
 greater expense than use or beauty. The chimnys of the house appeare 
 like so many towres. About the whole is a large deepe moate. The 
 country about it full of corne and wine, with many faire noblemens 
 houses. 
 
 We ariv'd at Blois in the evening. The town is hilly, uneven, and 
 rugged. It stands on the side of the Loire, having suburbs joyn'd by a 
 stately stone bridg, on which is a pyramid with an inscription. At the 
 entrance of the castle is a stone statue of Lewis XII. on horseback, as 
 large as life, under a Gothic state ; and a little below are these words : 
 
 " Hie ubi natus erat dextro Ludovicus Olympo 
 
 Sumpsit honorata regia sceptra manu ; 
 Fselix quae tanti fulsit Lux nuncia Regis 
 Gallica non alio principe digna fuit." 
 
 Under this is a very wide payre of gates, nailed full of wolves 
 and wild-boars'- heads. Behind y e castle the present Duke Gastion 
 had begun a faire building, through which we walked into a large 
 garden, esteemed for its furniture one of the fairest, especialy for 
 simples and exotic plants, in which he takes extraordinary delight. 
 On the right hand is a longe gallery full of ancient statues and in- 
 scriptions, both of marble and brasse ; the length, 300 paces, divides 
 
f 
 
 60 [FRANCE. 1644 
 
 the garden into higher and lower ground, having a very noble fountaine. 
 There is the portrait of an hart, taken in the forest by Lewis XII. 
 which has 24 antlers on its head. In the Collegiate Church of St. Sa- 
 viour we saw many sepulchres of the Earls of Blois. 
 
 Sunday, being May day, we walked up into y e Pall Mall, very long, 
 and so nobly shaded w Ul tall trees (being in the midst of a greate wood), 
 that, unless that of Tours, I had not seene a statelier. 
 
 From hence we proceeded with a friend of mine through the adjoyn- 
 ing forest, to see if we could meete any wolves, which are here in such 
 numbers that they often come and take children out of the very streetes ; 
 yet will not the Duke, who is sov'raigne here, permite them to be de- 
 stroy'd. We walked five or six miles outright, but met with none ; yet 
 a gentleman, who was resting himselfe under a tree, \v th his horse grazing 
 by him, told us that, halfe an houre before, two wolves had set upon his 
 horse, and had in probability devour'd him, but for a dog vv ch lay by 
 him. At a little village at the end of this wood we eat excellent 
 creame, and visited a castle builded on a very steepe cliff. 
 
 Bloys is a towne where the language is exactly spoken ; the inhabi- 
 tants very courteous ; the ayre so good, that it is the ordinary nursery of 
 the King's children. The people are so ingenious, that, for goldsmith's 
 worke and watches, no place in France affords the like. The pastures 
 by the river are very rich and pleasant. 
 
 2 May. We took boate, passing by Charmont, a proud castle on 
 y e left hand ; before it is a sweete island, deliciously shaded with tall 
 trees. A little distance from hence we went on shore at Ambois, a very 
 agreeable village, built of stone, and the houses covered with blue slate, 
 as the towns on the Loyre generally are ; but the castle chiefely invited 
 us, the thicknesse of whose towers, from the river to y e top, was admi- 
 rable. We enter'd by the draw-bridg, which has an invention to let 
 one fall, if not premonished. It is full of halls and spacious chambers, 
 and one stayre-case is large enough, and sufficiently com'odious, to re- 
 ceive a coach, and land it on the very towre, as they told us had been 
 don. There is some artillery. In the ancient chapell is a stag's head 
 or branches, hung up by chayns, consisting of twenty brow antlers, the 
 
FRANCE. 1644 ] 
 
 61 
 
 beame bigger than a man's middle, and of an incredible length. Indeed 
 it is monstrous, and yet I cannot conceive how it should be artificial : 
 they shew also the ribs and vertebrae of the same beast; but these might 
 be made of whalebone. 
 
 Leaving the Castle we pass'd Mont Louis, a village having no house 
 above ground, but such onely as are hewn out of the maine rocks, w ch 
 are of excellent free-stone. Here & there the funnell of a chimny ap- 
 pears on the surface amongst the vineyards which are over them, and 
 in this manner they inhabite y e caves, as it were sea-cliffs, on one side 
 of the river for many miles. 
 
 We now come within sight of Tours, where we were design'd for the 
 rest of the time I had resolv'd to stay in France, the sojournment being 
 so agreeable. Tours is on the easy side of an hill on the river Loyre, 
 having a faire bridge of stone, called St. Edme ; the streetes are very 
 long, straite, spacious, well built, & exceeding cleane ; the suburbs 
 large and pleasant, joyn'd to the citty by another bridg. Both the 
 Church and Monastry of St. Martin are large, of Gotic building, having 
 4 square towers, faire organs, and a stately altar where they shew the 
 bones & ashes of St. Martine, with other reliques. The Mall without 
 comparison is the noblest in Europe for length and shade, having 7 
 rowes of the tallest and goodliest elms I had ever beheld, the innermost 
 of which do so embrace each other, & at such a height, that nothing can 
 be more solemn and majestical. Here we play'd a party or two, and 
 then walked about the Towne-walles, built of square stone, filled w th 
 earth, & having a moate. No citty in France exceeds it in beauty or 
 delight. 
 
 6 May. We went to St. Gratian, reported to have been built by our 
 countrymen ; the dyal and clock-work are much esteem'd. The Church 
 has two handsom towres & spires of stone, and the whole fabric is very 
 noble & venerable. To this joy nes the Palace of the Archbishop, of old 
 and new building, with many faire roomes, and a faire garden. Here I 
 grew acquainted with one Mons r Merey, a very good Musitian. The 
 Archbishop treated me very courteously. We visited divers other 
 Churches, Chapells, & Monasteries, for the most part neatly built, & 
 
62 
 
 [FRANCE. l6'44. 
 
 full of pretty payntings, especialy the Convent of y c Capucines, which 
 has a prospect over the whole Citty, and many faire walkes. 
 
 8th. I went to see their manufactures in Silke (for in this towne 
 they drive a very considerable trade w th silk-wormes), their pressing & 
 watering the grograms and chambletts, with weights of an extraordinary 
 poyse, put into a rolling engine. Here I took a master of the language 
 and studied the tongue very diligently, recreating myself sometimes at 
 the Maill, and sometymes about the Towne. The house opposite my 
 lodging had been formerly a Palace of the King's, the outside was 
 totaly cover'd with fleurs de lyes, emboss'd out of y e stone. Here Mary 
 de Medici had her Court when she was compell'd to retire from Paris 
 by the persecution of the Cardinal. 
 
 25. Was the Fete Dieu } and a goodly procession of all the religious 
 orders, the whole streetes hung with their best tapistrys, and their 
 most precious moveables expos'd ; silks, damasks, velvets, plate, and 
 pictures in abundance ; the streets strew'd w th flowres, and full of 
 pageantry, banners, and bravery. 
 
 6 June. I went by water to visit that goodly and venerable Abby of 
 Marmoustier, being one of the greatest in the Kingdome. There is a 
 large Church of stone, w th a very high pyramid. Amongst other re- 
 liques the Monkes shew'd us is the Holy Ampoule, the same w th that 
 which sacres their Kings at Rhemes, this being the one which anoynted 
 Hen. IV. Ascending many stepps we went into the Abbot's Palace, 
 where we were shew'd a vast Tun (as big as that at Heidelberg), 
 which they report St. Martin (as I remember) filled from one cluster 
 of grapes growing there. 
 
 J. We walked about 2 miles from y e Citty to an agreeable solitude 
 called du Plessis, a house belonging to y e King. It has many pretty 
 gardens, full of nightingales. In the Chapell lyes buried the famous 
 Poet Ronsard. 
 
 Returning, we stepp'd into a Convent of Franciscans called St. 
 Cosmo, where the Cloister is painted with the miracles of their St. 
 Francis a Paula, whose ashes lie in their Chapell, with this inscrip- 
 tion : " Corpus Sancti Fran. a. Paula 1507- 13 Aprilis. concrematur vero 
 
FRANCE. 1644] 
 
 63 
 
 ab Heereticis a° 1562, cujus quidem ossa et cineres hie jacent." The 
 tomb has 4 small pyramids of marble at each corner. 
 
 9 June. I was invited to a Vineyard, which was so artificialy planted 
 and supported w th arched poles that stooping downe one might see 
 from end to end, a very greate length, under the vines, the bunches 
 hanging down in abundance. 
 
 20 June. We took hors to see certain natural Caves, called Goutiere, 
 neare Colombiere, where there is a spring within y u bowells of y e 
 earth very deepe, & so excessive cold that the dropps meeting w th some 
 stony matter it converts them into an hard stone, which hangs about 
 like icicles, having many others hi the form of comfitures and sugar 
 plums as wee call them. 
 
 Neere this we went under the ground almost two furlongs, lighted 
 w tb candles, to see the source and spring which serves the whole Cittv, 
 by a passage cut through the maine rock of free stone. 
 
 28. I went to see the Palace and Gardens of Chevereux, a sweete 
 place. 
 
 30. 1 walked through the vineyards as far as Roche Corbe, to the 
 mines of an old & very strong Castle sayd to have ben built by the 
 English, of great height, on the precipice of a dreadfull cliff, from 
 whence the country and river yeald a most incomparable prospect. 
 
 27 July. I heard excellent musiq at the Jesuites, who have here a 
 Schole and Convent, but a meane Chapell. We had now store of those 
 admirable melons so much celebrated in France for the best of the 
 kingdom. 
 
 1 Aug 1 . My valet, one Garno, a Spaniard borne in Biscay, having 
 misbehaved, I was forced to discharge him ; he demanded of me (be- 
 sides his wages) no lesse then 100 crownes to carry him to his country; 
 refusing to pay it, as no part of our agreement, he had the impudence 
 to arrest me : the next day I was to appear in Court, where both our 
 Advocats pleaded before the Lieutenant Civile. The Judge imme- 
 diately acquitting me, after he had reproached the Advocate who tooke 
 part w th my servant, he rose from the Bench, and making a courteous 
 excuse to me, that being a stranger I should be so us'd, he conducted 
 mee through the Court to y e streete-dore. This varlet afterwards 
 
64 
 
 [FRANCE. 1()44- 
 
 threatened to pistol me. The next day I waited on the Lieutennant to 
 thanke him for his greate civility. 
 
 18 Aug. The Queene of England came to Tours, having newly 
 ariv'd in France, and going for Paris. She was very nobly receiv'd by 
 the People and Cleargy, who went to meete her with the trained bands. 
 After the harangue the Archbish'p entertain'd her at his Palace, where 
 I paid my duty to her. The 20th she set forward to Paris. 
 
 8 Sept. Two of my kinsmen came from Paris to this place, where 
 I settled them in their pension and exercises. 
 
 14. We tooke post for Richlieu, passing by l'lsle Bouchart, a vil- 
 lage. — 15. We ariv'd at the Towne, and went to see the Cardinal's Palace 
 neare it. The Towne is in a low, marshy ground, having a small river 
 cut by hand, very even and straite, capable of bringing up a small vessell. 
 It consists of onely one considerable streete, the houses on both sides 
 (as indeed throughout y e towne) built exactly uniforme, after a modern 
 handsome designe. It has a large goodly Market-house and Place, oppo- 
 site to which is the Church built of free-stone, having two pyramids of 
 stone, w ch stand hollow from the towers. The Church is well-built, of a 
 well-ordered architecture, handsomely pav'd and adorn'd. To this towne 
 belongs an Academy, where, besides y e exercise of the horse, armes, 
 dauncing, &c. all the sciences are taught in the vulgar French by Pro- 
 fessors stipendiated by the greate Cardinal, who by this, the cheape 
 living there, & divers priviledges, not only design'd the improvem 1 of 
 the vulgar language, but to draw people and strangers to the towne ; 
 but since the Cardinal's death it is thinly inhabited, standing so much 
 out of the way, and in a place not well situated for health or pleasure. 
 He was allured to build by the name of the place, and an old house 
 there belonging to his ancestors. This pretty town is handsomly wall'd 
 about & moated, w th a kind of slight fortification, two faire gates & 
 draw-bridges. Before the gate towards the Palace is a spacious circle, 
 where the Faire is annually kept. About a flite-shot from the towne is 
 the Cardinal's house, a princely pile, tho' on an old designe, not al- 
 together Gotiq, but mix'd, inviron'd 'by a cleare moate. The roomes 
 are stately, most richly furnish'd with tissue, damask, aras, and velvet, 
 
FRANCE. 1644.] 
 
 65 
 
 pictures, statues, vases, & all sorts of antiquities, especialy the Caesars 
 in oriental alabaster. The long gallery is paynted w th the famous acts 
 of the Founder; the roofe vv th the life of Julius Caesar; at the end of it 
 is a Cupola or singing theatre, supported by very stately pillars of black 
 marble. The Chapell anciently belonging to the family of the Founder. 
 The Court is very ample. The Gardens without are very large, and 
 the parterres of excellent imbrodry, set with many statues of brasse and 
 marble ; the groves, meadows, and walkes are a real paradise. 
 
 16. We return'd to Tours, from whence, after 19 weekes sojourne, 
 we went towards the more Southern parte of France, minding now to 
 shape my course so as I might winter in Italy. 
 
 16 Sept. With my friend Mr. Thicknesse and o r guide we went the 
 first day 7 leagues to a castle called Chenouceaux, built by Cath. de 
 Medici, and now belonging to the Duke of Vendosnie, standing on a 
 bridg. In the gallery, amongst divers other excellent statues, is that 
 of Scipio Africanus, of oriental alabaster. 
 
 21st. We pass'd by Ville Franche, where we din'd, and so by 
 Muneton, lying at Viaron au mouton, w ch was 20 leagues. The next 
 day by Murg to Bourges, 4 leagues, where we spent the day. This is 
 the capital of Berry, an University much frequented by the Dutch, 
 situated on the river Eure. It stands high, is strong, and well placed 
 for defence. It is inviron'd with meadows and vines ; the living here 
 is very cheap. In the suburbs of St. Prie there is a fountaine of sharp 
 water w rh they report wholesome against the stone. They shew'd us a 
 vast tree w ch they say stands in the center of France. The French 
 tongue is spoken with great purity in this place. St. Stephen's Church 
 is y e Cathedrall, well built a la Gotic, full of sepulchres without-side, 
 with the representation of the final judgment over one of the ports. 
 Here they shew the Chapel of Claude de la Chastre, a famous souldier, 
 who had serv'd six Kings of France in their warrs. 
 
 St. Chapell is built much like that at Paris, full of reliques, and the 
 bones of one Briat, a gyant of 15 cubits high. This was built by 
 John Duke of Berry, and they shew'd the coronet of the dukedom. 
 The great tour is a Pharos for defence of the towne, very strong, in 
 thicknesse 18 foote, fortified with a grafF and workes ; there is a garri- 
 
 vol. 1. K 
 
66 
 
 [FRANCE. 16'44. 
 
 son in it, and a strange engine for throwing great stones, and the yron 
 Cage where Lewes Duke of Orleans was kept hy Cha s . VIII. Neere 
 y e Towne-house stands the Colledge of Jesuites, where was heretofore 
 an Amphitheatre. I was courteously entertayned by a Jesuit, who had 
 us into y e garden. The house of Jaques Coeur is worth seeing. 
 JBourges is an Archbishopric, Primate of Aquitain. I tooke my leave 
 of Mr. Nicholas and some other English there; and on the 23d proceeded 
 on my journey by Pont du Charge ; and lay that evening at Coulaiure, 
 13 leagues. 
 
 24th, by Franchede St. Menou, thence to Moulins where we din'd. 
 This is the chiefe towne of the Bourbonois, on y c river Allier very 
 navigable. The streetes are faire ; the Castle has a noble prospect, 
 and has been the seat of the Dukes. Here is a pretty parke and gar- 
 den. After dinner came many who offered knives and scissars to sell, 
 it being a towne famous for those trifles. This Dutchy of Bourbon is 
 ordinarily assigned for the dowry of the Queenes of France. 
 
 Hence we tooke horse for Varenne, an obscure village, where we lay- 
 that night. The next day we went somewhat out of y e way to see the 
 towne of Bourbon l'Archambaut, from whose ancient and ragged 
 castle is deriv'd the name of the present Royal Family of France. The 
 castle stands on a flinty rock, overlooking the towne. In the midst of 
 the streetes are some bathes of medicinal waters, some of them excessive 
 hot, but nothing so neately wall'd and adorn'd as ours in Somersetshire; 
 and indeede they are chiefly for drinking, our Queen being then lodged 
 there for that purpose. After dinner 1 went to see the St. Chapel, a 
 prime place of devotion, where is kept one of the thornes of our Saviour's 
 crowne, & a piece of the real crosse ; excellent paintings on glasse, 
 and some few statues of stone and wood, which they shew for curio- 
 sities. We went forward to Palisse, a village that lodged us that 
 night. 
 
 26 Sept. We ariv'd at Roan, where we quitted our guide and 
 tooke post for Lions. Roan seem'd to me one of the pleasantest and 
 most agreeable places imaginable for a retyred person : besides the 
 situation on the Loire, there are excellent provisions cheape and 
 aboundant. 
 
FRANCE. 1644.] 
 
 67 
 
 It being late when we left this towne, we rode no farther than 
 Tarrare that night (passing St. Saforin) a little desolate village in a 
 vally neere a pleasant streame, encompass'd with fresh meadows and 
 vineyards. The hills which we rod over before we descended, and after- 
 wards on the Lions side of this place, are high and mountainous ; fir 
 and pines grow frequently on them. The ayre methought was much 
 alter'd, as well as the manner of the houses, which are built flatter, 
 more after the Easterne manner. Before I went to bed I tooke a land- 
 skip of this pleasant terrace. There follow'd a most violent tempest of 
 thunder and li^htninjr. 
 
 27. We rod by Pont Charu to Lions, which being but 6 leagues 
 we soone accomplish'd it, having made 85 leagues from Toures in seven 
 days. There at the Golden Lion, rue de Flandre, I met divers of my 
 acquaintance, who coming from Paris design'd for Italy. We lost no 
 time in seeing the Citty, because of being ready to accompany these 
 gentlemen in their journey. 
 
 Lions is excellently situated on the confluence of the rivers Soane 
 and Rhodanus, which wash the walls of the Citty in a very rapid 
 streame ; each of these has its bridg ; that over the Rhone consists of 
 28 arches. The two high cliffs called St. Just and St. Sebastian are 
 very stately ; on one of them stands a strong fort, garrison'd. We 
 vissited the Cathedrall, St. Jean, where was one of the fairest clockes 
 for art and buisy invention I had ever seene. The fabriq of the Church 
 is Gotic, as are likewise those of St. Estienne and St. Croix. From 
 the top of one of the towers of St. Jean (for it has 4) we beheld the 
 whole citty and country, with a prospect reaching to the Alpes, many 
 leagues distant. The Archbishop's Palace is fairely built. The Church 
 of St. Niser is the greatest; that of the Jacobins is well built. Here 
 are divers other fine Churches, with other noble buildings. We went 
 to that of the Charite, or greate Hospital for poor infirm people, en- 
 tertaining about 1500, with a schoole, granary, gardens, and all con- 
 veniences, maintained at a wonderfull expence, worthy seeing. The 
 place of the Belle Court is very spacious, observable for the view it 
 affords, so various and agreeable, of hills, rocks, vineyards, gardens, 
 precipices, and other advantages, presenting themselves together. The 
 
68 
 
 [FRANCE. lG44. 
 
 Pall Mall is sett with faire trees. This stately, cleaiie, and nohle Citty 
 built all of stone, abounds in persons of quality and rich merchants. 
 Those of Florence obtain greate privileges above the rest. In the 
 Towne-house they shew 2 tables of brass on w ch is engraven Claudius's 
 speech to the Senat as to giving the Towne the Roman privi ledges. 
 There are also other antiquities. 
 
 30 Sept. We bargain'd with a waterman to carry us to Avignon on 
 the river, and got the first night to Vienne in Dauphine\ This is an 
 Archbishoprick, and the Province gives title to the Heir Apparent of 
 France. Here we supped and lay, having, amongst other dainties, a 
 dish of trufles, an earth nut, found out by an hogg train'd to it, and 
 for which those animals are sold at a great price*. We were shew'd 
 the ruines of an Amphitheatre pretty entire ; and many handsome Pa- 
 laces, especialy that of Pontius Pilate not far from the towne, at the 
 foote of a solitary mountain neere the river, having 4 pinnacles. Here 
 'tis reported he pass'd his exile, and precipitated himselfe into the lake 
 not far from it. The house is modern, and seemes to be the seate of 
 some gentleman, being in a very pleasant place. The Cathedral of 
 Vienne is St. Maurice ; and there are many other pretty buildings, but 
 nothing more so then the Mills where they hammer and polish the 
 sword-blades. 
 
 Hence the next morning we swam (for the river here is so rapid 
 that the boat was only steered) to a small village called Tain, where 
 we dyn'd. 
 
 Over against this is another towne named Tournon, where is a very 
 strong castle under a high precipice. To the castle joynes the Jesuits 
 Colledge where they have a fayre library. The prospect was so 
 tempting that I design'd it with my crayon. 
 
 We then came to Valence, a capital Citty carrying the title of a 
 Dutchy, but the Bishop is now sole lord temporal of it and the coun- 
 try about it. The towne having an University famous for the study of 
 the civil law, is much frequented ; but the Churches are none of the 
 fairest, having been greatly defaced in the time of the warrs. The 
 
 * In England fhey are found by dogs. 
 
FRANCE. 1644.] 
 
 69 
 
 streets are full of pretty fountaines. The Citadell is strong, and gar- 
 rison'd. Here we pass'd the night. The next morning by Pont St. 
 Esprit, which consists of 22 arches ; in the piers of the arches are 
 windowes as it were, to receive the water when it is high and full. 
 At this place we went on shore, it being very dangerous to passe the 
 bridjr in a boat. 
 
 Hence leaving our barg we tooke horse, seing at a distance the Towne 
 and Principality of Orange, and lodging one night on the way we 
 ariv'd at noone at Avignon. This towne has belonged to the Popes 
 ever since the time of Clement VI. being in 1352 alienated by Jane 
 Queene of Naples and Sicily. Entering the gates the soldiers at the 
 guard tooke our pistols and carbines, and examin'd us very strictly ; 
 after that, having obtain'd the Governor's leave and the Vice-Legat's 
 to tarry three days, we were civilly conducted to our lodging. The 
 City is on the Rhodanus, and divided from the newer part or towne, 
 which is on the other side of the river, by a very faire stone bridge 
 (which has been broken) ; at one end is a very high rock, on which is 
 a strong castle well furnish'd with artillery. The walls of the Citty are 
 of large square free-stone, the most neate and best in repaire I ever saw. 
 It is full of well-built Palaces ; those of the Vice-Legate and Archbishop 
 being the most magnificent. There are many sumptuous Churches, 
 especialy St. Magdalene and St. Martial, wherein [the tombe of] the 
 Card 1 . d'Amboise is the most observable. Clement VI. lies buried in 
 that of the Celestines, the altar whereof is exceeding rich. There is 
 the tomb of Laura the celebrated mistress of Petrarch. We saw the 
 Arsenal, the Pope's Palace, and the Synagogue of the Jewes who here 
 are distinguished by red hats. Vaucluse, so much renowned for the 
 solitude of Petrarch, we beheld from the Castle, but could not go 
 to visit it for want of time. We now took mules and a guide for 
 Marseilles. 
 
 30th Sept. We lay at Loumas ; the next morning came to Aix, 
 having pass'd that extremely rapid and dangerous river of Durance. In 
 this tract all the heathes or com'ons are cover'd with rosemary, lavender, 
 lentiscs, and the like sweet shrubes, for many miles together, which to 
 me was very pleasant. Aix is the chiefe Citty of Provence, being a 
 
70 [FRANCE. 164 4 
 
 Parliament and Presidential Town, with other Royal Courts and Metro- 
 politan jurisdiction. It is well built, the houses very high and the 
 streetes ample. The Cathedral!, St. Saviour's, is a noble pile adom'd 
 with innumerable figures especialy that of St. Michael ; the Baptisterie, 
 the Palace, the Court, built in a most spacious Piazza, are very faire. 
 The Duke of Guise's house is worth seeing, being furnished with many 
 antiquities in and about it The Jesuites have here a Royal Colledge, 
 and the City is an University. 
 
 7 Oct r . We had a most delicious journey to Marseilles, thro' a 
 country sweetely declining to the South and Mediterranean coasts, 
 lull of vine-yards and olive-yards, orange trees, myrtils, pomegranads, 
 and the like sweete plantations, to which belong pleasantly-situated 
 villas to the number of above 1500 built all of freestone, and in 
 prospect shewing as if they were so many heapes of snow dropp'd out 
 of the clouds amongst those perennial greens. It was almost at the 
 shutting of the gates that we arived. Marseilles is on the sea coast, 
 on a pleasant rising ground, well walled, with an excellent port for 
 ships and gallys, secur'd by a huge chayne of yron drawn across the 
 harbour at pleasure, and there is a well-fortified tower with 3 other 
 forts, especialy that built on a rock ; but the castle commanding the 
 Citty is that of Nostre dame de la Guard. In the Chapel hung up 
 divers crocodiles skinns. 
 
 We went to visite the Gallys, being about 25 ; the Captaine of the 
 Gaily Royal gave us most courteous entertainement in his cabine, the 
 slaves in the interim playing both loud and soft musiq very rarely. 
 Then he shew'd us how he commanded their motions with a nod and 
 his whistle, making them row out. The spectacle was to me new and 
 strange, to see so many hundreds of miserably naked persons, having 
 their heads shaven close and having onely high red bonnets, a payre 
 of course canvas drawers, their whole backs and leggs naked, doublv 
 chayn'd about their middle and leggs, in couples, and made fast to 
 their seates, and all commanded in a trise by an imperious and cruell 
 seaman. One Turke he much favor'd. who waited on him in his 
 cabin but with no other dress than the rest, and a chayne lock'd about 
 his leg but not coupled. This gaily was richly carv'd and gilded, and 
 
FRANCE. 1644.] 
 
 71 
 
 most of the rest were very beau ti full. After bestowing something on 
 the slaves, the captain sent a band of them to give us musiq at dinner 
 where we lodged. I was amaz'd to contemplate how these miserable 
 catyfs lie in their gaily crowded together, yet there was hardly one but 
 had some occupation by which, as leisure and calmes permitted, they 
 gat some little monye, insomuch as some of them have, after many 
 yeares of cruel servitude, been able to purchase their liberty. Their 
 rising forward and falling back at their oare is a miserable spectacle, 
 and the noyse of their chaines with the roaring of the beaten waters 
 has something of strange and fearfull to one unaccustom'd to it. They 
 are rul'd and chastiz'd by strokes on their backs and soles of theire 
 feete on the least disorder, and without the least humanity ; yet are 
 they chereful and full of knavery. 
 
 In the church of St. Victoire is that Saint's head in a shrine of 
 silver which weighs 600 lb. Nostre Dame is well built ; it is the 
 Cathedrall. The Duke of Guyse has a Palace : there is the Palais of 
 Justice, the Maison du Roy, but nothing is more strange than the 
 great number of slaves working in the streets, and carrying burthens, 
 with their confus'd noises and gingling of their huge chaynes. The 
 cheife trade of the towne is in silks and drougs out of Africa, Svria, 
 and Egypt, and Barbary horses which are brought hither in great 
 numbers. The towne is govern'd by 4 Captaines, has three Consuls 
 and one Assessor, three Judges Royal ; the Merchants have a Judge 
 for ordinary causes. Here we bought umbrellas against the heats, and 
 consulted of our journey to Canes by land, for feare of the Pickaron 
 Turkes, who make prize of many small vessels about these parts, we 
 not finding a gaily bound for Genoa, whither we were design'd. 
 
 9 Oct r . We tooke mules, passing the first night very late in sight 
 of St. Baume, and the solitary grott where they affirme Mary Magda- 
 len did her pennance. The next day we lay at Perigueux, a Citty 
 built on an old foundation, witnesse the ruines of a most stately am- 
 phitheater which I went out to design, being about a flight shoote 
 trom the Towne ; they call it now the Rolsies. There is a strong towre 
 neere the Towne call'd the Visone, but the Towne and Citty are at 
 some distance from each other. It is a bishoprick ; has a Cathedral ; 
 
[mediterranean. 1^44. 
 
 with divers noblemen's houses in sight of the sea. The place was for- 
 merly call'd Forum Julij, well known by Antiquaries. 
 
 10 Oct 1 . We proceeded by the ruines of a stately aqueduct. The 
 soile about the Country is rocky, full of pines and rare simples. 
 
 1 1. We lay at Canes, which is a small Port on the Mediterranean ; 
 here we agreed with a seaman to carry us to Genoa, and having pro- 
 cur'd a bill of health (without which there is no admission at any towne 
 in Italy,) we embarq'd on the 12th. We touch'd at the Islands 
 of St. Margaret and St. Honore, lately retaken from the Spanyards 
 with great bravery by Prince Harcourt. Here, having payd some 
 small duty, we bought some trifles offer'd us by the souldiers, but 
 without going on shore. Hence we coasted within 2 leagues of An- 
 tilles, which is the utmost towne in France. Thence by Nice, a Citty 
 in Savoy built all of brick, which gives it a very pleasant appearence 
 towards the sea, having a castle built very high, which com'ands it. 
 We sail'd by Morgus, now cal'd Monaco, having passed Villa Franca, 
 heretofore Portus Herculis, when, ariving after the gates were shut, 
 we were forc'd to abide all night in the barg, which was put into the 
 haven, the wind coming contrary. In the morning we were hastned 
 away, having no time permitted us by our avaricious master to go up 
 and see this strong and considerable place ; it now belongs to a Prince 
 of the family of Grimaldi, of Genoa, who has put both it and himself 
 under the protection of the French. The situation is on a promontory 
 of solid stone and rock. The towne walls very fay re. We were told 
 that within it was an ample court, and a palace, furnish'd with the most 
 rich and princely moveables, and a collection of statues, pictures, and 
 massie plate to an immense amount. 
 
 We sailed by Menton and Vintimiglia, being the first Citty of the 
 Republiq of Genoa : supp'd at Oneglia, where we anker'd and lay on 
 shore. The next morning we coasted in view of the Isle of Corsica 
 and St. Remo, where the shore is furnish'd with evergreens, oranges, 
 citrons, and date-trees ; we lay at Port Mauritio. The next morning 
 by Diano Aroisso, famous for the best corrall fishing, it growing in 
 aboundance on the rocks deepe and continualy covered by the sea. 
 By Albenga and Finale a very faire and strong towne belonging to 
 
 72 
 
MEDITERRANEAN. I644.] 
 
 73 
 
 the King of Spain, for which reason a Monsieur in our vessell was 
 extreamely afraide, as was the patron of our barke, for they frequently 
 catch French prizes as they creepe by these shores to go into Italy ; 
 he therefore ply'd both sayles and oars to get under the protection of a 
 Genoese gaily that pass'd not far before us, and in whose company we 
 sayl'd as far as the Cape of Savona, a towne built at the rise of the 
 Apenines ; for all this coast (except a little at St. Remo) is an high 
 and steepe mountainous ground, consisting all of rock marble, without 
 any grasse, tree, or rivage, formidable to looke on. A strange object 
 it is to consider how some poore cottages stand fast on the declivities of 
 these precipices, and by what steps the inhabitants ascend to them. 
 The rocks consist of all sorts of the most precious marbles. 
 
 Here, on the 15th, forsaking our gaily, we encounter'd a little foule 
 weather, which made us creepe Terra, Terra, as they call it, and so a 
 vessell that encounter'd us advised us to do; but our Patron, striving to 
 double the point of Savona, making out into the wind put us into 
 great hazard, for blowing very hard from land betwixt those horrid 
 gapps of the mountaines, it set so violently as rais'd on the sudden so 
 great a sea that we could not recover the weather-shore for manv 
 houres, insomuch that, what with the water already enter'd, and the 
 confusion of fearful passengers (of which one who was an Irish Bishop, 
 and his brother, a priest, were confessing some as at the article of 
 death), we were almost abandon'd to despaire, our pilot himselfe giving 
 us up for lost. And now, as we were weary with pumping and laving 
 out the water, almost sinking, it pleas'd God on the suddaine to 
 appease the wind, and with much ado and greate perill we recover'd the 
 shore, which we now kept in view, within halfe a league, in sight of 
 those pleasant villas, and within scent of those fragrant orchards w cb 
 are on this coast, full of princely retirements for the sumptuousnesse of 
 their buildings and noblenesse of the plantations, especialv those at St. 
 Pietro d'Arena, from whence, the wind blowing as it did, might 
 perfectly be smelt the joys of Italy in the perfumes of orange, citron, 
 and jassmine flowers for divers leagues seaward*. 
 
 * Mr. Evelyn was so struck with this circumstance of the fragrancy of the air on this coast, that 
 he has noticed it again in his Dedication of the Fumifugium to King Charles the Second. 
 VOL. I. L 
 
74 [GENOA. 1()44. 
 
 16 Oct r . We got to anker under the Pharos, or watch-tower, built 
 on a high rock at the mouth of the Mole of Genoa, the weather being 
 still so fowle that for two houres at least we durst not stand into 
 the haven. Towards evening we adventured, and came on shore by 
 the Prattiq-house, where after strict examination by the Syndics, we 
 were had to the Ducal Palace, and there, our names being taken, we 
 were conducted to our inne kept by one Zacharias an Englishman. 
 I shall never forget a story of our host Zachary, who on the relation 
 of our perill told us another of his owne, being shipwreck'd, as he 
 affirm'd solemnly, in the middle of a greate sea somewhere in the West 
 Indies, that he swam no lesse than 22 leagues to another island, with 
 a tinder-box wraped up in his hayre, which was not so much as wett 
 all the way ; that picking up the carpenter's tooles with other provi- 
 sions in a chest, he and the carpenter, who accompany'd him, (good 
 swimers it seemes both) floated the chest before them, and ariving at 
 last in a place full of wood, they built another vessell and so escaped. 
 After this story we no more talked of our danger, Zachary put us 
 quite downe. 
 
 17 Oct 1 ". Accompany'd by a most courteous merchand call'd Torn- 
 son, we went to view the rarities. The Citty is built in the hollow or 
 bosom of a mountaine, whose ascent is very steepe, high, and rocky, 
 so that, from the Lantern and Mole to the hill, it represents the shape 
 of a theater ; the streetes and buildings so ranged one above another 
 as our seates are in play-houses ; but, from their materials, beauty, 
 and structure, never was an artificial scene more beautifull to the eye, 
 nor is any place, for the size of it, so full of well-design'd and stately 
 palaces, as may be easily concluded by that rare booke in a large folio 
 which the great virtuoso and paynter Paull Rubens has published, tho' 
 it contains [the description of] only one streete and 2 or 3 churches. 
 
 The first Palace we went to visit was that of Hieronymo del Negros, 
 to which we pass'd by boate crosse the harbour. Here I could not but 
 observe the sudden and devilish passion of a seamen, who plying us 
 was intercepted by another who interpos'd his boate before him and 
 tooke us in ; for the teares gushing out of his eyes, he put his finger in 
 his mouth and almost bit it off by the joynt, shewing it. to his anta- 
 
»■ 
 
 Genoa. 1644.] . 7"5 
 
 gonist as an assurance to him of some bloudy revenge if ever he came 
 neere that part of the harbour again. Indeed this beautifull Citty is 
 more stayn'd with such horrid acts of revenge and murthers than any 
 one place in Europ, or haply in the world, where there is a political 
 government, which makes it unsafe to strangers. It is made a gaily 
 matter to carry a knife whose point is not broken off. 
 
 This Palace of Negros is richly furnish'd with the rarest pictures ; 
 on the terrace, or hilly garden, there is a grove of stately trees amongst 
 which are sheepe, shepherds, and wild beasts, cut very artificially in a 
 grey stone ; fountaines, rocks, and fish-ponds : casting your eyes one 
 way, you would imagine yourselfe in a wildernesse and silent country ; 
 sideways, in the heart of a greate citty ; and backwards, in the middst 
 of the sea. All this is within one acre of ground. In the house I 
 noticed those red-plaster flores which are made so hard, and kept so 
 polished, that for some time one would take them for whole pieces of 
 porphyrie. I have frequently wonder'd that we never practic'd this in 
 England for cabinets and rooms of state*, for it appears to me beyond 
 anv invention of that kind ; but by their carefull covering them with 
 canvas and fine mattresses, where there is much passage, I suppose 
 they are not lasting in their glory. 
 
 There are numerous other Palaces of particular curiositys, for the 
 merchands being very rich have, like our neighbours the Hollanders, 
 little or no extent of ground to employ their estates in : as those in 
 pictures and hangings, so these lav it out on marble houses and rich 
 furniture. 
 
 One of the greatest here for circuit is that of the Prince d'Orias, 
 which reaches from the sea to the sum'it of the mountaines. The 
 house is most magnificently built without, nor less gloriously furnish'd 
 within, having whole tables f and bedsteads of massy silver, many 
 of them sett with achates, onyxes, cornelians, lazulis, pearls, turquizes, 
 and other precious stones. The pictures and statues are innumerable. 
 To this Palace belong three gardens, the first whereof is beautified with 
 
 * There are such at Hardwick Hall in Derbyshire, a seat of the Duke of Devonshire, 
 f One of which, Lassells says, weighed "24,000103. (p. 94.) 
 
76 
 
 [GENOA. 1644. 
 
 a terrace, supported by pillars of marble : there is a fountaine of eagles, 
 and one of Neptune with other Sea-gods, all of the purest white 
 marble ; they stand in a most ample basine of the same stone. At 
 the side of this garden is such an aviary as S r Fra. Bacon describes in 
 his Sermone Jidelium, or Essays, wherein grow trees of more than 
 two foote diameter, besides cypresse, myrtils, lentises, and other rare 
 shrubs, which serve to nestle and pearch all sorts of birds, who have 
 ayre and place enough under their ayrie canopy, supported with huge 
 iron worke, stupendious for its fabrick and the charge. The other two 
 gardens are full of orange-trees, citrons, and pomegranads, fountaines, 
 grotts, and statues ; one of the latter is a Colossal Jupiter, under which 
 is the sepulchre of a beloved dog, for the care of which one of this 
 family receiv'd of the K. of Spaine 500 crownes a yeare during the life 
 of that faithfull animal. The reservoir of water here is a most ad- 
 mirable piece of art ; and so is the grotto over against it. 
 
 We went thence to the Palace of the Dukes, where is also the Court 
 of Justice ; thence to the Merchants Walke, rarely covered. Neere * 
 the Ducal Palace we saw the publiq armoury, which was almost all 
 new, most neatly kept and order'd, sufficient for 30,000 men. We 
 were shew'd many rare inventions and engines of warr peculiar to that 
 armory, as in the state where gunns were first put in use. The garrison 
 of the towne chiefly consists of Germans and Corsicans. The famous 
 Strada Nova, built wholly of polish'd marble, was design'd by Rubens, 
 and for statelinesse of the buildings, paving, and evennesse of the 
 streete, is far superior to any in Europ, for the number of houses ; that 
 of Don Carlo d'Orias is a most magnificent structure. In the gardens 
 of the old Marquiss Spinola I saw huge citrons hanging on the trees, 
 apply'd like our apricots to the walls. The Churches are no less 
 splendid than the Palaces : that of St. Francis is wholly built of Parian 
 marble ; St. Lawrence, in the middle of the City, of white and black 
 polish'd stone, the inside wholly incrusted with marble and other pre- 
 cious materials ; on the altar of St. John stand 4 sumptuous columns of 
 porphyry; and here we were shew'd an emerald supposed to be one 
 
 * Lassells says, in the Palace. 
 
» 
 
 GENOA. 1644.] 77 
 
 of the largest in the world*. The Church of St. Ambrosio belonging 
 to the Jesuites, will, when finish'd, exceed all the rest. That of the 
 Annuiiciada, founded at the charges of one family f, in the present and 
 future designe can never be outdone for cost and art. The Mole is a 
 worke of solid huge stone stretching neere 600 paces into the main sea, 
 and secures the harbour, heretofore of no safetv. Of all the wonders of 
 Italy, for the art and nature of the designe, nothing parallels this 
 We pass'd over to the Pharos, or Lantern, a towre of very great height. 
 Here we tooke horses and made the circuite of the Citty as far as the 
 new walles would let us; they are built of a prodigious height, and with 
 Herculean industry, witnesse those vast pieces of whole mountaines 
 which they have hewn away, and blown up with gunpowder, to render 
 them steepe and inaccessible. They are not much lesse than § 20 Eng- 
 lish miles in extent, reaching beyond the utmost buildings of the City. 
 From one of these promontories we could easily discern the Island of 
 Corsica ; and from the same, Eastward, we saw a Vale having a great 
 torrent running thro' a most desolate barren country ; and then turning 
 our eyes more Northward we saw those delicious Villas of St, Pietro 
 d'Arena, which present another Genoa to you, the ravishing retire- 
 ments of the Genoese nobility. Hence, with much paine, we de- 
 scended towards the Arsenale, where the gallys lie in excellent order. 
 
 The inhabitants of this City are much affected to the Spanish mode 
 and stately garbe ||. From the narrowness of the streetes they use 
 sedans and litters, and not coaches. 
 
 * Lassells calls it a great dish, in which they say here that our Saviour ate the Paschal Lamb 
 with his Disciples ; but he adds that he finds no authority for it in any ancient writer, and that 
 Venerable Bede writes that the dish used by our Saviour was of silver. Of an authentic relic of St. 
 John he observes that Baronius writes credibly. 
 
 f Two brothers, named Lomellini, allow the third part of their gains. Lassells. 
 
 X The Break-water now (1816) forming at Plymouth is at least as stupendous a work. 
 
 § Lassells says, finished in 18 months, and yet 6 miles in compass, p. 83. 
 
 || Thus described by Lassells : broad hats without hatbands, broad leather girdles with steel 
 buckles, narrow britches with long-waisted doublets and hanging-sleeves. The great ladies go in 
 guard infanta's (Ghild preservers) ; that is, in horrible overgrown vertigals of whalebone, which 
 being put about the waiste of the lady, and full as broad on both sides as she can reach with her 
 hands, bear out her coats in such a manner that she appears to be as broad as long. The men look 
 like tumblers that leap thro' hoops, and the women like those that anciently danced the Hobby- 
 horse in country mummings, p. 96. 
 
78 
 
 [PISA. ltf44- 
 
 19 Oct r . We embarqued in a filuca for Ligorne [Leghorn], but the 
 sea running very high we put in at Porta Venere, which we made with 
 peril, between 2 narrow horrid rocks, against which the sea dashed 
 with great velocity ; but we were soone delivered into as great a calme 
 and a most ample harbor, being the Golpho di Spetia. From hence 
 we could see Pliny's Delphini Promontorium, now call'd Cap fi'no. 
 Here stood that famous Citv of Luna, whence the Port was named Lu- 
 narisy being about 2 leagues over, more resembling a lake than an 
 haven, but defended by castles and excessive high mountaines. We 
 landed at Lerici, where, being Sunday, was a great procession, carry- 
 ing the Sacrament about the streetes in solemn devotion. After dinner 
 we took post horses, passing through whole groves of olive-trees, the 
 way somewhat rugged and hilly at first, but afterwards pleasant. We 
 passed thro' the townes of Sarazana and Massa, and the vast marble 
 quarries of Carrara, and lodged in an obscure inn at a place called 
 Viregio. The next morning we ariv'd at Pisa, where I met my old 
 friend Mr. Tho s . Henshaw, who was then newly come out of Spaine, 
 and from whose company I never parted till more than a yeare after. 
 
 The City of Pisa is as much worth seeing as any in Italy ; it has con- 
 tended with Rome, Florence, Sardinia, Sicily, and even Carthage. The 
 Palace and Church of St. Stephano (where the order of knighthood called 
 by that name was instituted) drew first our curiosity, the outside thereof 
 being altogether of polish'd marble ; within it is full of tables relating to 
 this order ; over which hang divers banners and pendents, with other 
 trophies taken by them from the Turkes, against whom they are particu- 
 larly oblig'd to fight ; tho' a religious order, they are permitted to marry. 
 At the front of the Palace stands a fountaine, and the statue of the greate 
 Duke Cosmo. The Campanile, or Settezonio, built by John Venipont, 
 a German, consists of several orders of pillars, 30 in a row, design'd to 
 be much higher. It stands alone on the right side of the Cathedrall, 
 strangely remarkable for this, that the beholder would expect it to fall, 
 being built exceedingly declining*, by a rare addresse of the architect ; 
 and how it is supported from falling I think would puzzle a good geome- 
 
 * See pp.82, 171. 
 
PISA. 1644.] 
 
 79 
 
 trician. The Domo, or Cathedral!, standing neere it, is a superb struc- 
 ture, beautified with 6 columns of greate antiquity ; the gates are of 
 brasse, of admirable workmanship. The Cemetere cal'd Campo Santo is 
 made of divers gaily ladings of earth formerly brought from Jerusalem, 
 said to be of such a nature as to consume dead bodies in fourty houres. 
 'Tis cloistred with marble arches ; here lies buried the learned Philip 
 Decius who taught in this University. At one side of this Church 
 stands an ample and well-wrought marble vessell which heretofore 
 contain'd the tribute paid yearly by the Citty to Caesar. It is plac'd, as 
 I remember, on a pillar of opilestone, with divers other antiq urnes. 
 Neere this, and in the same field, is the Baptistery of San Giovanni, 
 built of pure white marble and cover'd with so artificial a cupola that 
 the voice uttered under it seemes to breake out of a cloud. The font and 
 pulpit supported by 4 lyons is of inestimable value for the preciousnesse 
 of the materials. The place where these buildings stand they call the 
 Area. Hence we went to the Colledge, to which joynes a Gallery so 
 furnish'd with natural rarities, stones, minerals, shells, dry'd animals, 
 skelletons, &c. as is hardly to be seen in Italy. To this the Physio, 
 Garden lyes, where is a noble palm-tree and very fine water-workes. 
 The river Arno runs through the middle of this stately Citye, whence 
 the streete is named Longarno. It is so ample that the Duke's gallys, 
 built in the Arsenal here, are easily convey'd to Livorno ; over the river 
 is an arch, the like of which, for its flatness, and serving for a bridge, is 
 no where in Europ. The Duke has a stately Palace, before which is 
 placed the statue of Ferdinand the Third ; over against it is the Ex- 
 change, built of marble. Since this Citty came to be under the Dukes 
 of Tuscany it has been much depopulated, tho' there is hardly in Italy 
 any w ch exceeds it for stately edifices. The situation of it is low and 
 flat, but the inhabitants have spacious gardens and even fields within 
 the walls. 
 
 21 Oct 1 ". We tooke coach to Livorno, thro' the Great Duke's new 
 Parke full of huge corke-trees, the underwood all myrtils, amongst 
 which were many buffalos feeding, a kind of wild ox, short-nos'd, with 
 homes revers'd ; those who worke with them com'and them as our 
 bearevvards do the beares, with a ring thro' the nose, and a cord. 
 
80 
 
 [leghorn. 1644. 
 
 Much of this Parke, as well as a greate part of the country about it, is 
 very fenny, and the ayre very bad. 
 
 Ligorne is the prime Port belonging to all the Duke's territo- 
 ries ; heretofore a very obscure Towne, but since Duke Ferdinand 
 has strongly fortified it (after the moderne way), has drain'd the 
 marshes by cutting a channell thence to Pisa navigable 16 miles, and 
 has rais'd a Mole, emulating that at Genoa, to secure the shipping, it 
 is become a place of great receipt ; it has also a place for the gallys, 
 where they lye safe. Before the sea is an ample Piazza for the market, 
 where are the statues in copper of the fower slaves, much exceeding 
 the life for proportion, and, in the judgm' of most artists, one of the 
 best pieces of modern worke *. Here, especialy in this Piazza, is 
 such a concourse of slaves, Turkes, Mores, and other nations, that 
 the number and confusion is prodigious ; some buying, others selling, 
 others drinking, others playing, some working, others sleeping, fight- 
 ing, singing, weeping, all nearly naked, and miserably chayn'd. 
 Here was a tent, where any idle fellow might stake his liberty against 
 a few crownes, at dice or other hazard, and, if he lost, he was imme- 
 diately chayn'd and led away to the gallys, where he was to serve a 
 tearm of yeares, but from whence they seldom return'd : many sottish 
 persons in a drunken bravado would try their fortune in this way. 
 
 The houses of this neate Towne are very uniforme, and excellently 
 paynted a J'resca on the outer walls with representations of many of 
 their victories over the Turkes. The houses, though low on account 
 of the earthquakes w ch frequently happen here (as did one during 
 my being in Italy) are very well built; the Piazza is very fayre and 
 com'odious, and with the Church whose 4 columns at the portico are 
 of black marble polish'd, gave the first hint to the building both of 
 the Church and Piazza in Covent Garden with us, tho' very imper- 
 fectly persu'd. 
 
 22 Oct. From Livorno I took coach to Em poly, where we lay, and 
 the next day ariv'd at Florence, being recommended to the house 
 
 * They had attempted to steal a galley, meaning to have rowed it themselves, but were taken 
 in this great enterprize. Lassells, p. <233. 
 
FLORENCE. 1644-] 
 
 81 
 
 of Sig. Baritiere, in the Piazza dal Spirito Santo, where we were 
 exceedingly well treated. Florence is at the foot of the Appenines, 
 the West part full of stately groves and pleasant meadows, beautified 
 with more than a thousand houses and country palaces of note, belong- 
 ing to gentlemen of the towne. The river Arno runs through this 
 Citty, in a broad but very shallow channel], dividing it, as it were, in 
 the middle ; and over it are fower most sumptuous bridges of stone. 
 On that nearest to our quarter are the 4 Seasons in white marble; 
 on another are the goldsmiths shops ; at the head of the former stands 
 a column of opite on which is a statue of Justice with her balance 
 and sword, cut out of porphyrie, and the more remarkable for being 
 the first which had been carved out of that hard material, and brought 
 to perfection after the art had been utterly lost ; they say this was done 
 by hardening the tools in the juice of certaine herbs. This statue was 
 erected in that corner because there Cosmo was first saluted with the 
 newes of Sienna being taken. 
 
 Neere this is the famous Palazzo di Strozzi, a princely piece of 
 architecture, in a rustiq manner. The Palace of Pitti was built by 
 that family, but of late greatly beautified by Cosmo with huge square 
 stones of the Doric, Ionic, and the Corinthian orders, with a terrace 
 at each side having rustic uncut balustrades, with a fountain that ends 
 in a cascade seen from the great gate, and so forming a vista to the 
 gardens. Nothing is more admirable than the vacant stayrecase, 
 marbles, statues, urnes, pictures, courte, grotto, and waterworkes. In 
 the quadrangle is a huge jetto of water in a volto of 4 faces, with 
 noble statues at each square, especialy the Diana of porphyrie above 
 the grotto. We were here shew'd a prodigious greate load-stone. 
 
 The garden has every variety, hills, dales, rocks, groves, aviaries, 
 vivaries, fountaines, especialy one of five jettos, the middle basin being- 
 one of the longest stones I ever saw. Here is every thing to make 
 such a paradise delightfull. In the garden I saw a rose grafted on an 
 orange-tree. There was much topiary worke, and columns in archi- 
 tecture about the hedges. The Duke has added an ample laboratorve. 
 over against which stands a Fort on a hill where they told us his 
 
 VOL. I. M 
 
82 
 
 [flokence. 1G44. 
 
 treasure is kept. In this Palace the Duke ordinarily resides, living 
 with his Swiss guards after the frugal Italian way, and even selling 
 what he can spare of his wines, at the cellar under his very house, 
 wicker hottles dangling over even the chiefe entrance into the Palace, 
 serving for a vintner's bush. 
 
 In the Church of S t0 Spirito the altar and reliquary are most rich, 
 full of precious stones ; there are 4 pillars of a kind of serpentine, and 
 some of blue. Hence we went to another Palace of the Duke's, called 
 Palazzo Vecchio, before which is a statue of David by Michael 
 Angelo, and one of Hercules killing Cacus, the work of Baccio Ban- 
 dinelli. The quadrangle about this is of the Corinthian order, and in 
 the hall are many rare marbles, as those of Leo the Tenth and Cle- 
 ment VII. both Popes of the Medicean family ; also the acts of Cosmo 
 in rare painting. In the Chapell is kept (as they would make one 
 believe) the original Gospel of St. John, written with his owne hand ; 
 and the famous Florentine Pandects, and divers precious stones. Neere 
 it is another pendant Towre like that at Pisa, always threatning ruine. 
 
 Under the Court of Justice is a stately Arcade for men to walke in^ 
 and over that the shops of divers rare artists who continualy worke 
 for the great Duke. Above this is that renowned Ceimeliarcha, or 
 Repository, wherein are hundreds of admirable antiquities, statues of 
 marble and mettal, vases of porphyrie, &c. ; but amongst the statues 
 none so famous as the Scipio, Boare, the Idol of Apollo brought from 
 the Delphic Temple, and two triumphant columnes. Over these hang 
 the pictures of the most famous persons and illustrious men in arts or 
 amies, to the number of 300, taken out of the Museum of Paulus 
 Jovius. They then led us into a large square roome, in the middle of 
 which stood a cabinet of an octangular forme, so adorn'd and fur- 
 nish'd with christals, achat, sculptures, &c. as exceeds any description. 
 This cabinet is called the Tribuna, and in it is a pearl as big as a 
 hazale nut*. The cabinet is of ebonie, lazuli, and jasper; over the 
 
 * Sir Gore Ouseley brought from Persia a picture of the Khan, now (1816) in his house in Bru- 
 ton-street, on whose dress are represented pearls of such a size as to make the one here spoken of 
 very insignificant. . 
 
FLORENCE. 1^44-] 
 
 83 
 
 door is a round of M. Angelo; in the cabinet, Leo the Tenth, with 
 other paintings of Raphael, del Sarto, Perugino, and Correggio, viz. 
 a St. John, a Virgin, a Soy, 2 Apostles, 2 Heads of Durer, rarely 
 carved. Over this cabinet is a Globe of ivory, excellently carved ; the 
 Labours of Hercules in massy silver, and many incomparable pictures 
 in small. There is another, which had about it 8 oriental columns of 
 alabaster, on each whereof was placed a head of a Caesar, cover'd with 
 a canopy so richly set with precious stones that they resembled a firma- 
 ment of starrs. Within it was our Saviour's Passion and 12 Apostles 
 in amber. This cabinet was valued at two hundred thousand crownes. 
 In another, with Calcidon pillars, was a series of golden medaills. 
 Here is also another rich ebony Cabinet cupola'd with a tortoise-shell 
 and containing a collection of gold medails esteem'd worth 50,000 
 crownes ; a wreathed pillar of oriental alabaster, divers paintings of 
 Da Vinci, Pontorno, del Sarto, an Ecce Homo of Titian, a Boy of 
 Bronzini, &c. They shew'd us a branch of corall fixed on the rock 
 which they affirme dos still grow. In another roome is kept the 
 Tabernacle appointed for the Chapel of St. Lawrence, about which are 
 placed small statues of Saints, of precious materials ; a piece of such 
 art and cost, that, having been these 40 years in perfecting, it is one 
 of the most curious things in the world. Here were divers tables of 
 Pietra Comessa, which is a marble ground inlay 'd with severall sorts 
 of marbles and stones of various colours, representing flowers, trees, 
 beasts, birds, and landskips. In one is represented the town of 
 Ligorne by the same hand who inlay'd the altar of St. Lawrence, 
 Domenico Benotti. I purchased of him 19 pieces of the same worke 
 for a cabinet. In a presse neere this they shew'd an yron naile, one 
 halfe whereof being converted into gold by one Thornheuser, a 
 German chymist, is look'd on as a greate rarity, but it plainly ap- 
 peared to have been soldered together. There is a curious watch, a 
 monstrous turquoise as big as an egg, on which is carved an emperor's 
 head. 
 
 In the Armory are kept many antiq habits, as those of Chinese kings; 
 the sword of Charlemain ; Hannibal's head-piece ; a loadstone of a 
 vard long, which bear3 up 86 lbs. weight, in a chaine of IJ links, 
 
84 
 
 [FLORENCE. l644- 
 
 such as the slaves are tied to. In another roorne are such rare tourne- 
 ries in ivory as are not to be described for their curiosity. There is 
 a faire pillar of oriental alabaster ; 12 vast and compleate services 
 of silver plate, and one of gold, all of excellent workmanship ; a rich 
 embrodred saddle of pearls sent by the Emperor to this Duke ; and 
 here is that embrodred chaire set with precious stones in which he 
 sits, when, on St. John's Day, he receives the tribute of the Citties. 
 
 25 Oct r . We went to the Portico where the famous statues of Judith 
 and Holofernes stand, also the Medusa, all of copper ; but what is 
 most admirable is the Rape of a Sabine with another man under foot, 
 the confusion and turning of whose limbs is most admirable. It is of 
 one entire marble, the worke of John di Bologna, and is most stupen- 
 duous ; this stands directly against the greate Piazza, where, to adorne 
 one fountaine, are erected four marble statues and eight of brasse, re- 
 presenting Neptune and his family of sea-gods, of a Colossean magni- 
 tude, with four sea-horses in Parian marble of Lamedrati ; this is in 
 the midst of a very great basin, a work, I think, hardly to be parallel'd- 
 Here is also the famous statue of David by M. Angelo ; Hercules anfcl 
 Cacus by Baccio Bandinelli ; the Perseus in copper by Benevento, 
 and the Judith of Donatelli, w ch stand publickly before the old palace 
 with the Centaur of Bologna, huge Colossean figures. Neere this stands 
 Cosmo di Medici on horseback, in brasse on a pedistal of marble, and 
 four copper bass relievos by John di Bologna, with divers inscriptions ; 
 the Ferdinand the First on horseback is of Pietro Tacca. The brazen 
 Boare which serves for another publiq fountaine is admirable. 
 
 After dinner we went to the church of Annunciata, where the Duke 
 and his Court were at their devotions, being a place of extraordinary 
 repute for sanctity ; for here is a shrine that dos greate miracles, 
 [proved] by innumerable votive tablets, &c. covering almost the walles 
 of the whole church. This is the image of Gabriel who saluted the 
 Bl. Virgin, and which the artist finish'd so well that he was in despaire 
 of performing the Virgin's face, whereupon it was miraculously don 
 for him whilst he slept ; but others say it was painted by St. Luke 
 himselfe. Whoever it was, infinite is the devotion of both sexes to it. 
 The altar is set off with four columns of oriental alabaster, and lighted 
 
SIENNA. 1644.3 ^ 
 
 by thirty greate silver lamps. There are innumerable other pictures by 
 rare masters. Our Saviour's passion in brasse tables inserted in marble 
 is the worke of John di Bologna and Baccio Bandinelli. 
 
 To this church joynes a Convent whose cloister is painted mj'resca 
 very rarely. There is also neere it an Hospital for 1000 persons, with 
 nurse children, and several other charitable accom'odations. 
 
 At the Duke's Cavalerizzo, the Prince has a stable of the finest 
 horses of all countries, Arabs, Turks, Barbs, Gennets, English, &c. 
 which are continualy exercis'd in the manege. 
 
 Nere this is a place where are kept several wild beasts, as wolves, 
 catts, beares, tvgers, and lions. They are loose in a deep wall'd court, 
 and therefore to be seene with more pleasure than at the Tower of 
 London, in their grates. One of the lions leaped to a surprising height 
 to catch a joynt of mutton which I caused to be hung downe. 
 
 * There are many playne brick towers erected for defence when this 
 [Sienna]] was a free state. The highest is called the Mangio, standing 
 at the foote of the Piazza, which we went first to see after our arival. 
 At the entrance of this tower is a Chapel, open towards the Piazza, of 
 marble well adorn'd with sculpture. 
 
 On the other side is the Signoria, or Court of Justice, well built a 
 la moderna of brick ; indeed the bricks of Sienna are so well made 
 that they look almost as well as porphyrie itselfe, having a kind of na- 
 tural polish. 
 
 In the Senate House is a very fed re hall where they sometimes en- 
 tertain the people with publiq shews and operas as they call them. 
 Towards the left are the statues of Romulus and Remus with the 
 Wolf, all of brasse, plac'd on a columne of ophite stone which they 
 report was brought from the renowned Ephesian Temple. These en- 
 signes being the armes of the towne, are set up in divers of the streetes 
 and publiq wayes both within and far without the citty. 
 
 The Piazza compasses the faciata of the Court and Chapel, and, being 
 made with descending steps, much resembles the figure of an escalop 
 shell. The white ranges of pavement intermix'd with the excellent 
 bricks above mention'd, with which the town is generally well paved, 
 
 * There seems to be an omission in the MS. as to their leaving Florence and going to Sienna. 
 
86 
 
 [sienna. 1644. 
 
 render it very clean. About this market-place (for so it is) are many 
 faire palaces, though not built with excesse of elegance. There stands 
 an arch the worke of Baltazar di Sienna, built with wonderfull inge- 
 nuity so that it is not easy to conceive how it is supported, yet it has 
 some imperceptible contignations w ch do not betray themselves easily 
 to the eye. On the edge of the Piazza is a goodly fountaine beautified 
 with statues, the water issuing out of the wolves mouths, being the 
 worke of Jacobo Quercei, a famous artist. There are divers other pub- 
 Hq fountaines in the Citty, of good designe. 
 
 The Sapienza is the University, or rather Colledg, where the High 
 Germans enjoy many particular priviledges when they addict themselves 
 to the Civil Law. This place has produced many excellent scholars, 
 besides those three Popes, Alexander, Pius the II nd , and the III d of 
 that name the learned iEneas Sylvius, and both were of the antient 
 house of the Piccolomini. 
 
 The chiefe streete is called Strada Romana in which Pius the II d 
 has built a most stately Palace of square stone with an incomparable 
 portico joyning neere to it. The towne is com'anded by a Castle whicji 
 hath four bastions and a garison of souldiers. Neere it is a List to ride 
 horses in, much frequented by the gallants in summer. 
 
 Not far from hence is the Church and Convent of the Dominicans, 
 where in the Chapel of St. Catherine of Sienna they shew her head, 
 the rest of her body being translated to Rome. The Domo or Cathedral, 
 both without and within, is of large square stones of black and white 
 marble polish'd, of inexpressible beauty, as is the front adorn'd with 
 sculpture and rare statues. In the middle is a stately cupola and 
 two columns of sundry streaked colour'd marble. About the body of 
 the Church on a cornice within are inserted the heads of all the Popes. 
 The pulpit is beautified with marble figures, a piece of exquisite worke; 
 but what exceeds all description is the pavement, where (besides the 
 various emblemes and other figures in the nave) the quire is wrought 
 with the History of the Bible, so artificial)' express'd in the natural co- 
 lours of the marbles that few pictures exceede it. Here stands a Christo 
 rarely cut in marble, and on the large high Altar is a brasen vessell of 
 admirable invention and art. The organs are exceeding sweete and well 
 
SIENNA. 1644.] 87 
 
 tun'd. On the left side of the altar is the Library, where are painted 
 the acts of iEneas Sylvius and others by Raphael. They shew'd us an 
 arme of St. John the Baptist, wherewith, they say, he baptized our 
 Saviour in Jordan ; it was given by the King of Peloponesus to one of 
 the Popes, as an inscription testifies. They have also St. Peter's Sword 
 with which he smote off the ear of Malchus. 
 
 Just against the Cathedral we went into the Hospital, where they 
 entertain and refresh for three or four days, gratis, such pilgrimes as go 
 to Rome. In the Chapel belonging to it lies the body of St. Susorius 
 their founder, as yet uncorrupted though dead many hundreds of yeares. 
 They shew one of the nailes which pierced our Saviour, and St. Chry- 
 sostom's Comment on the Gospel written by his owne hand. Below 
 the hill stands the pool called Fonte Brande, where fish are fed for 
 pleasure more than foode. 
 
 St. Francis's Church is a large pile, neere which, yet a little without 
 the Citty, growes a tree which they report in their legend grew from 
 the Saint's staff, which on going to sleepe he fix'd in the ground, and 
 at his waking found it had grown a large tree. They affirme that the 
 wood of it in decoction cures sundry diseases. 
 
 2 Nov. We went from Sienna, desirous of being present at the Ca- 
 valcade of the new Pope Innocent X.* who had not yet made the grand 
 procession to St. John de Lateran. We set out by Porto Romano, the 
 country all about the towne being rare for hunting and game. Wild 
 boare and venison are frequently sold in the shops in many of the townes 
 about it. We pass'd neere Mont Oliveto, where the Monastrie of that 
 Order is pleasantly situated and worth seeing. Passing over a bridg, 
 which, by the inscription, appears to have been built by Prince Matthias, 
 we went through Buon-Conventa, famous for the death of the Emperor 
 Hen. VII. who was here poison'd in the holy Eucharist. Thence we 
 came to Tormiero, where we din'd. This village is in a sweete vally 
 in view of Monte Alcini, famous for the rare Muscatello f . After 
 three miles more we go by St. Querico, and lay at a privat Osteria 
 neere it, where, after we were provided of lodging, came in Cardinal 
 
 * John Baptista Pamphili, chosen Pope in October 1644, died in 1G55. 
 
 t A wine. 
 
88 [ITALY. I644. 
 
 Dough], a Genoese by birth, now come from Rome : he was so civil as 
 to entertaine us with greate respect, hearing we were English, for 
 that, he told us, he had been once in our country. Amongst other dis- 
 course he related how a dove was seen to sit on the chayre in the Con- 
 clave at the election of Pope Innocent, which he magnified as a greate 
 good omen, with other particulars which we enquir'd of him, till our 
 suppers parted us. He came in great state with his owne bedstead 
 and ail the furniture, yet would by no meanes suffer us to resigne the 
 room we had taken up in the lodging before his arrival. Next morn- 
 ing we rod by Monte Pientio, or, as vulgarly called, Monte Mantu- 
 miato, which is of an excessive height, ever and anon peeping above 
 any clowds with its snowy head, till we had climbed to the inn at Radi- 
 cofany built by Ferd' 1 the greate Duke for the necessary refreshment 
 of travellers in so inhospitable a place. As we ascended we entered a 
 very thick, solid, and dark body of cloudes, w ch look'd like rocks at a 
 little distance, which lasted neare a mile in going up ; they were dry 
 misty vapours, hanging undissolved for a vast thicknesse, and obscuring 
 both the sun and earth, so that we seemed to be in the sea rather than 
 in the cloudes, till, having pierced through it we came into a most* 
 serene heaven, as if we had been above all human conversation, the 
 mountaine appearing more like a greate island than joyn'd to any other 
 hills, for we could perceive nothing but a sea of thick cloudes rowling 
 uuder our feete like huge waves, every now and then suffering the top 
 of some other mountaine to peepe through, which we could discover 
 many miles off ; and betweene some breaches of the cloudes we could 
 see landskips and villages of the subjacent country. This was one of 
 the most pleasant, newe, and altogether surprizing objects that I had 
 ever beheld. 
 
 On the sum'it of this horrid rock (for so it is) is built a very strong 
 Fort, garrison'd, and somewhat beneath it is a small Towne ; the pro- 
 visions are drawne up with ropes and engines, the precipice being 
 otherwise inaccessable. At one end of the towne lie heapes of rocks 
 so strangely broaken off from the ragged mountaine as would affright 
 one with their horror and menacing postures. Just opposite to the 
 inn gushed out a plentiful! and most useful fountaine, which falls into 
 
ITALY. 1644.] 89 
 
 a great trough of stone, bearing the Duke of Tuscany's amies. Here 
 we din'd, and I with my black lead pen tooke the prospect*. It is 
 one of the utmost confines of the Etrurian State towards St. Peter's 
 Patrimony since the gift of Matilda to Gregory 7> as they say. 
 
 Here we passe a stone bridg built by Pope Gregory XIV. and thence 
 immediately to Aquapendentef , a town situated on a very ragged 
 rock, down which precipitates an intire river with a horrid roaring 
 noise. From this river it has its name. We lay at the Post-house, 
 on which is this inscription : 
 
 " L'Insegna della Posta, e posta a posta, 
 In questa posta, fin che habbia a sua posta 
 Ogn' un Cavallo a Vetturi in Posta." 
 
 Before it was darke we went to see the Monastery of the Franciscans, 
 famous for 6 learned Popes and sundry other great scholars, especialy 
 the renowned physician and anatomist Fabricius de Aquapendente, 
 who was bred and borne here. 
 
 4 Nov. After a little riding we descend towards the Lake of Bol- 
 sena, which being above 20 miles in circuit yields from hence a most 
 incomparable prospect. Neere the middle of it are 2 small islands, in 
 one of which is a Convent of melancholy Capucines, where those of the 
 Farnesian family are interred. Pliny calls it Tarquiniensis Lacus, and 
 talks of divers floting islands about it, but they did not appear to us. 
 The Lake is environ'd with mountaines, at one of whose sides we pass'd 
 towards the towne Bolsena, anciently Vulsinium, famous in those 
 times, as is testified by divers rare sculptures in the court of St. Chris- 
 tiana's Church, the urne, altar, and jasper columns. 
 
 After 7 miles riding, passing thro' a wood heretofore sacred to Juno, 
 we came to Monte Fiascone, the head of the Falisci a famous people 
 in old time, heretofore Falernum, as renowned for its excellent wine, 
 as now for the story of the Dutch Bishop, who lyes buried in Faviano's 
 Church with this epitaph : 
 
 " Propter Est, Est, dominus meus mortuus est." 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 * An etching of it, with others, is in the Library at Wotton. 
 t 11 miles from the Duke's Inn, according to Lassells. 
 
 N 
 
90 [ITALY. 1644. 
 
 Because having ordered his servant to ride before, enquire where the 
 best wine was, and there write Est, the man found some so good that 
 he wrote Est, Est, and the Bishop drinking too much of it died. 
 
 From hence we travell a plain and pleasant champain to Viterbo, 
 which presents itselfe with much state afarr off, in reguard of her many 
 lofty pinnacles and toweres ; neither dos it deceive our expectation, for 
 it is exceedingly beautified with publiq fountaines, especialy that at the 
 entrance which is all of brasse and adorn'd with many rare figures, and 
 salutes the passenger with a most agreeable object and refreshing 
 waters. There are many Popes buried in this Citty, and in the Palace 
 is this odd inscription : 
 
 " Osiridis victoriam in Gigantes litteris historiographicis in hoc antiquissimo 
 marmore inscriptam, ex Herculis olim, nunc Divi Laurentij Templo transla- 
 tam, ad conversam: vetustiss: patriae monumenta atq' decora hie locandum 
 statuitS. P. Q. V. 
 
 Under it : 
 
 Sum Osiris Rex Jupi- Sum Osiris Rex qui Sum Osiris Rex qui 
 ter universo in terrarum ab Italia in Gigantes ex- terrarum pacato Italiam 
 orbe. ercitus veni, vidi, et vici. decern a'nos quorum in- 
 
 ventor fui." 
 
 Neere the towne is a sulphureous fountaine which continualy boils. 
 After dinner we tooke horse by the new way of Capranica, and so 
 passing near Mount Ciminus and the Lake, we began to enter the 
 plains of Rome, at which sight my thoughts were strangely elevated, 
 but soon allay'd by so violent a shower which fell just as we were con- 
 templating that proud mistress of the world, and descending by the 
 Vatican (for at that gate we entered), that before we got into the Citty 
 I was wet to the skin. 
 
 I came to Rome on the 4 Nov. 1644, about 5 at night, and being 
 perplexed for a convenient lodging wandered up and down on horseback, 
 till at last one conducted us to Mons r Petit's, a Frenchman, near the 
 Piazza Spagnola. Here I alighted, and having bargained with my host 
 for 20 crownes a moneth I caused a good fire to be made in my chamber 
 and went to bed, being so very wet. The next morning (for I was 
 resolved to spend no time idly here) I got acquainted with several per- 
 sons who had long lived in Rome. I was especialy recommended to 
 
ROME. 1644.] 91 
 
 ather John, a Benedictine monke and Superior of his Order for the 
 English College of Douay, a person of singular learning, religion, and 
 humanity; also to M r Patrick Cary, an Abbot, brother to our learned 
 Lord Falkland, a witty young priest who afterwards came over to our 
 Church ; Dr. Bacon and Dr. Gibbs *, physicians who had dependance 
 on Cardinal Caponi, the latter being an excellent poet ; Father 
 Cortnee, the Chiefe of the Jesuites in the English Colledge ; my Lord 
 of Somerset brother to the Marquiss of Worcester, and some others, 
 from whom I received instructions how to behave in towne, with direc- 
 tions to masters and bookes to take in search of the antiquities, churches, 
 collections, &c. Accordingly the next day, Nov 1 " 6th, I began to be 
 very pragmatical f. 
 
 In the first place our Sights-man J (for so they name certain per- 
 sons here who get their living by leading strangers about to see the 
 City) went to the Palace Farnezi, a magnificent square structure, built 
 by Michael Angelo of the 3 orders of columns after the ancient man- 
 ner, and when Architecture was but newly recovered from the Gotic 
 barbarity. The court is square and tarrass'd, having two payre of 
 staires, which leade to the upper roomes, and conducted us to that 
 famous gallery painted by Agostino Caracci, than which nothing is 
 more rare of that art ; so deepe and well -studied are all the figures, that 
 it would require more judgement than I confesse I had, to determine 
 whether they were flat or emboss'd. Thence we passed into another 
 painted in chiara oscuro, representing the fabulous history of Hercules. 
 We went out on a terrace, where was a pretty garden on the leads, for 
 it is built in a place that has no extent of ground backwards. The 
 
 * James Alban Gibbs, a Scotchman bred at Oxford, who resided many years at Rome, where he 
 died in 1677, and was burried in the Pantheon there with an epitaph to his memory under a 
 marble bust of him. He was an extraordinary character. In Wood's Athenae is a long account of 
 him, and also some curious particulars in Wal ton's Life of Dr. Bathurst. He was a great writer of 
 Latin Poetry, a small collection of which he published at Rome, to which is prefixed his portrait 
 neatly engraved. 
 
 f Mr. Evelyn must intend this in a good sense, very active and full of business, viz. what he 
 came upon, to view the antiquities and beauties of Rome, both ancient and modern. 
 
 J The present name for these gentlemen is with the Italians a Cicerone, but they affect univer- 
 sally the title of Antiquaries. 
 
92 
 
 [rome. 1644. 
 
 greate Hall is wrought by Salviati and Zuccharo, furnish'd with 
 statues, one of which being modern is a figure of one of the Farnese in 
 a triumphant posture, of white marble, worthy of admiration. Here 
 we were shewed the Museum of Fulvius Ursinos repleate with innu- 
 merable collections ; but the Major Domo being absent, we could not 
 at this time see all we had a desire to see. Descending into the court 
 we with astonishment contemplated the 2 statues of Hercules and Flora, 
 so much celebrated by Pliny. There is a modern statue of Hercules 
 and two Gladiators not to be despis'd. In a second court was a tem- 
 porary shelter of boards over the most stupendous and never to be suf- 
 ficiently admir'd Torso of Amphion and Dirces, represented in 5 figures 
 exceeding the life in magnitude, of the purest white marble, the con- 
 tending work of those famous statuaries, Apollonius and Taurisco in 
 the time of Augustus, hewed out of one entire stone, and remaining 
 unblemished, to be valued beyond all the marbles of the world for its 
 antiquity and workmanship. There are divers other heads and busts. 
 At the entrance of this stately Palace stand 2 rare and vast fountaines 
 of garnito stone, brought into this Piazza out of Titus's Bathes. Here* 
 in sum'er the gentlemen of Rome take the fresco in their coaches and 
 on foote. At the sides of this court we vissited the Palace of Sign. 
 Pichini, who has a good collection of antiquities, especialy the Adonis 
 of Parian marble, which my Lord Arundel would once have purchas'd 
 if a greate price would have been taken for it. 
 
 7 Nov. We went into the Campo Vaccino by the ruines of the 
 Temple of Peace built by Titus Vespasianus, thought to be the 
 largest, as well as the most richly furnish'd, of all the Roman dedi- 
 cated places ; it is now an heape ratber than a temple, yet the roofe 
 and volto continue firme, shewing it to have been formerly of incom- 
 parable workmanship. This goodly structure was, none knows how, 
 consum'd by fire the very night, by all computation, that our Saviour 
 was born. 
 
 Hence we passed by the place into w ch Curtius precipitated him- 
 self for the love of his country, now without any sign of a lake or 
 vorago. Neere this stand some columns of white marble, of exquisite 
 worke, supposed to be part of the Temple of Jupiter Tonans built by 
 
ROME. 1644-] 
 
 93 
 
 Augustus ; the vvorke of the capitals (being Corinthian) and architrave 
 is excellent, full of sacrificing utensils. There are 3 other of Jupiter 
 Stator. Opposite to these are the Oratories or Churches of St. Cosmo 
 and Damiano, heretofore the temples of Romulus and Remus, a pretty 
 odd fabriq, with a Tribunal, or Tholus within, wrought all of Mosaic. 
 The gates before it are brasse, and the whole much obliged to Pope 
 Urban the 8th. Here lie the bodies of those 2 Martyrs ; and in a Chapel 
 on the right hand is a rare painting of Cavaliero Baylione. We next 
 entered St. Laurenzo in Miranda. The portico is supported by a range 
 of most stately columns ; the inscription cut in the architrave shews it to 
 have been the Temple of Faustina. It is now made a faire Church, and 
 has an Hospital which joines it. On the same side is St. Adriano, 
 heretofore dedicated to Saturne. Before this was once placed a Miliary 
 Column, supposed to be set in the center of the Citty, from whence they 
 us'd to compute the distance of all the citties and places of note under 
 the dominion of those universal Monarchs. To this Church are likewise 
 brazen gates and a noble front. Just opposite they shew'd us heapes 
 and ruines of Cicero's Palace. Hence we went towards Mons Capitoli- 
 nus, at the foote of which stands the Arch of Septimius Severus, full and 
 entire, save where the pedestal and some of the lower members are 
 choaked up with ruines and earth. This Arch is exceedingly inrich'd 
 with sculpture and trophies, with a large inscription. In the terrestrial 
 and naval battailes here graven is seen the Roman Aries [the battering- 
 ram]. This was the first triumphal Arch set up in Rome. The Capi- 
 tol, to which we climbed by very broad steps, is built about a square 
 court, at the right hand of which going up from Campo Vaccino 
 gushes a plentifull streame from the statue of Tybur in porphyry, very 
 antiq, and another representing Rome ; but above all is the admirable 
 figure of Marforius casting water into a most ample Concha. The 
 front of this court is crowned with an excellent fabriq containing the 
 Courts of Justice, and where the Criminal Notary sits, and others. In 
 one of the Halls they shew the statues of Gregory XIII. and Paule III. 
 with several others. To this joynes a handsome Tower, the whole 
 faciata adorn'd with noble statues both on the outside and on the bat- 
 tlements, ascended by a double payre of staires, and a stately Posario. 
 
94 
 
 [rome. 1(?44. 
 
 In the center of the court stands that incomparable Horse bearing 
 the Emperor Marcus Aurelius, as big as the life, of Corinthian 
 niettal, placed on a pedestal of marble, esteemed one of the noblest 
 pieces of vvorke now extant, antique and very rare. There is also 
 a vast Head of a Colossean magnitude, of white marble, fixed in 
 the wall. At the descending stavres are sett two Horses of white 
 marble governed by 2 naked Slaves, taken to be meant for Castor and 
 Pollux, brought from Pompey's Theatre. On the balustrade the Tro- 
 phies of Marius against the Cimbrians, very ancient and instructive. 
 At the foote of the stepps towards the left hand is that Colonna Mi- 
 liaria with the globe of brasse on it, mention'd to have been formerly 
 sett in Campo Vaccino. On the same hand is the Palace of the Seg- 
 niori Conservatori, or 3 Consuls, now the Civil Governors of the Citty, 
 containing the Fraternities or Halls (or Guilds, as we call them) of 
 sundry Companys, and other offices of state. Under the Portico within, 
 are the statues of Augustus Caesar, a Bacchus, and the so renowned 
 Colonna Rostrata of Duillius, with the excellent bassi relievi. In a 
 smaller court are the statue of Constantine on a fountaine, a Minerva's 
 head of brasse, and that of Com'odus to which belongs an hand the 
 thumb of which is at least an ell long, but the rest of the Colosse is 
 lost. In the corner of this Court stand an horse and lyon fighting, as 
 big as life, in white marble, esceedingly valu'd ; likewise the Rape of 
 the Sabines ; 2 cumbent figures of Alexander and Mammea ; 2 mon- 
 strous feete of a Colosse of Apollo ; the sepulchre of Agrippina ; and 
 the Standard, or antiq measure of the Roman foote. Ascending by the 
 stepps of the other corner, are inserted fower basse relievo's, viz. the 
 triumph and sacrifice of Marcus Aurelius, which last, for the antiquity 
 and rareness of the worke, I caused my painter Carlo Neapolitano to 
 copy. There are also 2 statues of the Muses, and one of Adrian the 
 Emperor; above stands the figure of Marius, and by the wall Mar- 
 sias bound to a tree ; all of them excellent and antique. Above, in the 
 Lobby, are inserted into the walls those ancient laws on brasse call'd 
 the 12 Tables; a faire Madona of Pietro Perugino, painted on the 
 wall ; neere which are the Archives full of ancient records. In the 
 
ROME. I644.] 95 
 
 great Hall are divers excellent paintings of Cavaliero Giuseppe d'Ar- 
 pino, a statue in brasse of Sixtus V. and of Leo X. of marble. In an- 
 other Hall are many modern statues of their late Consuls and Governors, 
 set about with fine antique heads ; others are painted by excellent mas- 
 ters, representing the actions of M. Scaevola, Horatius Codes, &c. — 
 The room where the Conservatori now feast on solemn days is tapisstred 
 with crimson damasq embrodred with gold, haveing a state or baldu- 
 quino of crimson velvet very rich, the freeze above rarely painted. 
 Here are in brasse, Romulus and Remus sucking the wolfe, with the 
 shepherd Faustulus by them ; also the Boy plucking the thorne out of 
 his foote (in brasse) so much admir'd by artists. There are also holy 
 statues and heads of Saints. In a Gallery neere adjoyning are the names 
 of the ancient Consuls, Praetors, and Fasti Romani, so celebrated by 
 the learned ; also the figure of an old woman ; 2 others representing 
 Poverty ; and more in fragments. In another large roome furnish 'd 
 with velvet are the statue of Adonis very rare, and divers antiq heads. 
 In the next chamber is an old statue of Cicero, one of another Consul, 
 an Hercules in brasse, 2 women's heads of incomparable worke, six 
 other statues ; and over the chimny a very rare basso relievo and other 
 figures. In a little Lobby before the Chapell is the statue of Hannibal, 
 a Bacchus very antiq, bustos of Pan and Mercury, with other old 
 heads. All these noble statues, &c. belong to the Citty, and cannot be 
 dispos'd of to any privat person or remov'd hence, but are preserv'd 
 for the honor of the place, though greate sumes have been offer'd for 
 them by divers greate Princes lovers of art and antiquity. We now 
 left the Capitol, certainely one of the most renown'd places in the 
 world, even as now built by the designe of the famous M. Angelo. 
 
 Returning home by Ara Cceli, we mounted to it by more than 100 
 marble stepps, not in devotion as I observed some to do on their bare 
 knees, but to see those two famous statues of Constantine in white 
 marble, placed there out of his Bathes. In this Church is a Madona, 
 reported to be painted by St. Luke, and a column, on which we saw the 
 print of a foote which they affirme to have been that of the Angel, seene 
 on the Castle of St. Angelo. Here the feast of our blessed Saviour's 
 
96 
 
 [rome. 1644. 
 
 nativity being yearely celebrated with divers pageants, they began to 
 make the preparation. Having viewed the Palace and Fountaine at 
 the other side of the stayres, we return'd weary to our lodgings. 
 
 On the 7th we went againe towards the Capitol, towards the Tar- 
 peian rock, whence it has a goodly prospect of the Tybur. Thence 
 descending by the Tullianum, where they told us St. Peter was impri- 
 soned, they shew'd us a Chapell in which a rocky side of it beares the 
 impression of his face. In the nave of the Church gushes a fountaine 
 which they say was caused by the Apostle's prayers, when having con- 
 verted some of his fellow-captives he wanted water to baptize them. 
 We then walked about Mount Palatinus and the Aventine, and thence 
 to the Circus Maximus, capable of holding 40,000 spectators, now a 
 heap of ruines converted into gardens. Then by the Forum Boarium, 
 where they have a tradition that Hercules slew Cacus, some ruines of 
 his Temple remaining. The Temple of Janus quadrifrontis, having 4 
 arches importing the 4 Seasons, and on each side niches for the Mo- 
 nethes, is still a substantial and pretty entire antiquity. Neere this is 
 the Argus Argentariorum. Bending now towards the Tyber we went 
 into the Theater of Marcellus, which would hold 80,000 persons, built 
 by Augustus and dedicated to his nephew ; the architecture from what 
 remaines appears to be inferior to none. It is now wholly converted 
 into the house of the Savelli, one of the old Roman families. The 
 people were now generally busye in erecting temporary triumphs and 
 arches with statues and flattering inscriptions against his Holinesse's 
 grand procession to St. John de Lateran, amongst which the Jewes 
 also began one in testimony of gratitude for their protection under the 
 Papal State. The Palazzo Barberini, designed by the present Pope's 
 Architect, Cavaliero Bernini, seems from the size to be as princely an 
 object as any moderne building in Europ. It has a double Portico, at 
 the end of which we ascended by 2 paire of oval stayres all of stone and 
 \oide in the well. One of these led us into a stately Hall, the volto 
 whereof was newly painted afresca by the rare hand of Pietro Berretini 
 di Cortona. To this is annex'd a Gallery compleately furnish'd with 
 whatever Art can call rare and singular, and a Library full of 
 worthy collections, medails, marbles, and manuscripts, but above all 
 
ROME. 1()44. j 
 
 97 
 
 an Egyptian Osyris, remarkable for the material being unknown and 
 for its antiquity. In one of the roomes neere this hangs the Sposaliccio 
 of St. Sebastian, the original of Annibal Caracci, of which I procured a 
 copy little inferior to the prototype ; a table in my judgment superior 
 to any thing I had seen in Rome. In the Court is a vast broaken 
 Gulio Obelisq having divers hieroglyphics cut on it. 
 
 8 Nov. We visited the Jesuites Church, the front whereof is 
 esteem'd a noble piece of architecture, the designe of Jacomo della 
 Porta and the famous Vignola. In this Church lies the body of their 
 renown'd Ignatius Loyola, an arme of Xaverius, their other Apostle, 
 and at the right end of their high altar their Champion Card: Bellar- 
 mine. Father Kircherus (professor of Mathematics and of the Oriental 
 tongues) shew'd us many singular courtesies, leading us into their 
 Refectory, Dispensatory, Laboratory, Gardens, and finally (through an 
 Hall hung round with pictures of such of their order as had been 
 executed for their pragmatical and buisy adventures) into his own 
 study, where, with Dutch patience, he shew'd us his perpetual motions, 
 catoptrics, magnetical experiments, models, and a thousand other 
 crotchets and devices, most of them since published by himseife or 
 his industrious scholar Schotti. 
 
 Returning home we view'd the Palazzo de Medici, which was a 
 house of the Duke of Florence, neere our lodging, on the brow of 
 Mons Pincius, having a fine prospect towards the Campo Marzo. It 
 is a magnificent, strong building, having a substruction very remark- 
 able, and a portico supported with columns towards the gardens, with 
 two huge lions of marble at the end of the balustrade. The whole out- 
 side of the faciata is incrusted with antiq and rare basse-relieves and 
 statues. Descending into the garden is a noble fountaine govern'd by 
 a Mercury of brasse. At a little distance on the left is a lodge full of 
 fine statues, amongst which the Sabines is antiq and singularly rare. 
 In the arcado neere this stand 24 statues of great price, and hard by is 
 a mount planted with cypresses representing a fortresse, with a goodly 
 fountaine in the middle. Here is also a row balustred with white 
 marble, covered over with the natural shrubbs, ivy, and other per- 
 ennial greenes, divers statues and heads being placed as in niches. 
 
 vol. 1. o 
 
98 
 
 [rome. 1 644. 
 
 At a little distance are those fam'd statues of Niobe and her family, in 
 all 15, as large as the life, of which we have ample mention in Pliny, 
 esteemed among the best pieces of worke in the world for the passions 
 they expresse, and all other perfections of that stupendous art. There 
 is in this garden a faire obelisq full of hieroglyphics. In going out, 
 the fountaine before the front casts water neere 50 foote in height 
 when it is received in a most ample marble basin. Here they usually 
 rode the greate-horse every morning, which gave me much diversion 
 from the tarrace of my owne chamber, where I could see all their 
 motions. This evening I was invited to heare rare musiq at the Chiesa 
 Nova ; the black marble pillars within led us to that most precious 
 Oratory of Philippus Nerius their founder, they being of the oratory 
 of secular priests, under no vow. There are in it divers good pictures, 
 as the Assumption of Girolamo Mutiano ; the Crucifix ; the Visitation 
 of Elizabeth ; the Presentation of the Blessed Virgin ; Christ o 
 Sepolto of Guklo Rheno, Caravigio, Arpino, and others. This faire 
 Church consists of 14 altars and as manv chapells. In it is buried 
 (besides their Saint) Caesar Baronius the greate annalist. Through 
 this we went into the Sacristia, where, the tapers being lighted, one of 
 the Order preach'd ; after him stepp'd up a child of 8 or 9 years old 
 who pronounced an oration with so much grace, that I never was better 
 pleas'd than to heare Italian so well and so intelligently spoken. This 
 course it seemes they frequently use, to bring their scholars to a 
 habit of speaking distinctly, and forming their action and assurance, 
 which none so much want as ours in England. This being flnish'd 
 began their Motettos, which, in a lofty cupola richly painted, were 
 sung by eunuchs and other rare voices, accompanied with theorbos, 
 harpsicors, and viols, so that we were even ravish'd with the enter- 
 tainment of the evening. This roome is painted by Cortona, and has 
 in it two figures in the niches, and the Church stands in one of the 
 most stately streetes of Rome. 
 
 10th Nov r . We went to see Prince Ludovisio's villa where was 
 formerly the Viridarium of the poet Sallust. The house is very mag- 
 nificent, and the extent of the ground is exceeding large considering 
 that it is in a Citty; in every quarter of the garden are antiq statues, 
 
ROME. 1C44.] 
 
 and walkes planted with cypresse. To this garden belongs a house of 
 retirement built in the figure of a erosse after a particular ordonance, 
 especially the stayrecase. The whiteness and smoothness of the par- 
 geting was a thing I much observ'd, being almost as even and polish'd 
 as if it had been marble. Above is a faire prospect of the Citty. In 
 one of the chambers hang two famous pieces of Bassano, the one a 
 Vulcan, the other a Nativity ; there is a German clock full of rare and 
 extraordinary motions, and in a little room below are many precious 
 marbles, columns, urnes, vasas, and noble statues of porphyry, Oriental 
 alabaster, and other rare materials. About this fabriq is an ample area, 
 environ'd with 16 vast jarrs of red earth wherein the Romans us'd 
 to preserve their oyle, or wine rather, which they buried, and such 
 as are properly call'd Testae. I must never forget the famous statue 
 of the Gladiator spoken of by Pliny, so much follow'd by all the 
 rare artists as the many copies testifie, dispersed through almost all 
 Europ both in stone and metal. There is also an Hercules, a head 
 of porphyrie, and one of Marcus Aurelius. In the Villa-house is a 
 man's body, flesh and all, petrified and even converted to marble, as 
 it was found in the Alps, and sent by the Emperor to one of the 
 Popes ; it lay in a chest or eofin lin'd with black velvet, and one of 
 the armes being broken, you may see the perfect bone from the flesh 
 which remains intire. The Rape of Proserpine in marble is of the 
 purest white, the worke of Bernini. In the cabinet neere it are innu- 
 merable small brasse figures and other curiosities. But what some 
 looke upon as exceeding all the rest, is a very rich bedstead (which 
 sort of grosse furniture the Italians much glory in, as formerly did our 
 grandfathers in England in their inlaid wooden ones) inlaid with all 
 sorts of precious stones and antiq heads, onyxs, achates, and corne- 
 lians, esteem'd to be worth 80 or 90,000 crownes. Here are also 
 divers cabinets and tables of the Florence work, besides pictures in the 
 gallery, especialy the Apollo. There is a chayre to sleepe in with the 
 leggs stretcht out, with books, and pieces of wood to draw out longer 
 or shorter. 
 
 From this we went to see Sign. Angeloni's study, who very courte- 
 ously shew'd us such a collection of rare medaills as is hardly to be 
 
100 
 
 [ROME. 1644. 
 
 parallel'd ; divers good pictures, and many outlandish and Indian 
 curiosities and things of nature. 
 
 Hence we went to Monte Cavallo, heretofore call'd Mons Quiri- 
 nalis, where we saw those two rare horses, the worke of the rivals 
 Phidias and Praxiteles, as they were sent as a present to Nero [by Tiri- 
 dates King] out of Arminia. They were placed on pedestals of white 
 marble by Sixtus V. by whom I suppose their injuries were repair'd. 
 They are govern'd by 4 naked slaves like those at the foote of the 
 Capitol. Here runs a most noble fountaine, faceing fower of the most 
 stately streetes for building and beauty to be seen in any Citty ot 
 Europ. Opposite to these statues is the Pope's Sum'er Palace, built 
 by Gregory XIII. and in my opinion for the largeness and the archi- 
 tecture one of the most conspicuous in Rome. It has a stately portico 
 which leads round the court under columns, in the center of which runs 
 a beautifull fountaine. The chapell is incrusted with such precious 
 materials, that nothing can be more rich or glorious, nor are the other 
 ornaments and moveables about it at all inferior. The hall is painted 
 by Lanfranci and others. The garden, which is call'd the Belvedere di 
 Monte Cavallo, in emulation to that of the Vatican, is most excellent 
 for ayre and prospect, its excpiisite fountaines, close walks, grotts, 
 piscinas or stews for fish, planted about with venerable cypresses, and 
 refresh'd with water-musiq, aviaries, and other rarities. 
 
 12th Nov. We saw Dioclesian's Bathes, whose ruines testifie the 
 vastnesse of the original foundation and magnificence ; by what 
 M. Angelo tooke from the ornaments about it, 'tis sayd he restor'd 
 the then almost lost art of architecture. This monstrous pile was 
 built by the labour of the primitive Christians, then under one of the 
 ten great persecutions. The Church of St. Bernardo is made out of 
 one onely of these ruinous cupolas, and is in the form of an urne 
 with a cover. 
 
 Opposite to this is the Fontana delle Therme, otherwise call'd Fons 
 Felix ; in it is a basso relievo of white marble representing Moses 
 striking the rock, which is adorn'd with camels, men, women, and 
 children drinking, as large as life ; a worke for the designe and vast- 
 nesse truly magnificent- The water is convey'd no lesse than 22 miles 
 
ROME. 1644.) 101 
 
 in an aquaeduct by Sixtus V. ex agro Columna by way of PraenestS, 
 as the inscription testifies. It gushes into three ample lavors rais'd 
 about with stone, before which are placed two lions of a strange black 
 stone very rare and antiq. Neere this are the Store-houses for the 
 Citty's corne, and over against it the Church of St. Susanna where 
 were the gardens of Sallust. The faciata of this church is noble, the 
 soflfito within is guilded and full of pictures; especialy famous is that 
 of Susanna, by Baldassa di Bologna. The tribunal of the high altar is 
 of exquisite worke, from whose marble stepps you descend under- 
 ground to the repository of divers Saints. The picture over this altar 
 is the worke of Jacomo Siciliano. The foundation is for Bernadine 
 Nunns. 
 
 S ta Maria della Vittoria presents us with the most ravishing front. 
 In this Church was sung the Te J)eum by Greg. XV. after the signal 
 victory of the Emp r at Prague ; the standards then taken still hang up, 
 and the impresse waving with this motto over the Pope's armes, Ex- 
 tirpentur. The high altar was much frequented for an image of the 
 Virgine. There are some rare statues : there is Paule ravish'd into 
 the third heaven, by Ger. Fiamengo, and some good pictures. 
 
 We went again to Dioclesian's Bathes, never satisfied with contem- 
 plating that immense pile, in building which 150,000 Christians were 
 destin'd to labour 14 yeares and were then all murther'd. Here is a 
 Monastery of Carthusians call'd S ta Maria degli Angeli, the architec- 
 ture of M. Angelo, the cloister encompassing walls in an ample garden. 
 
 Mont Alto's Villa is enter'd by a stately gate of stone built on the 
 Viminalis, and is no other than a spacious parke full of fountaines, 
 especialy that which salutes us at the front ; stews for fish ; the 
 cypresse walkes are so beset with statues, inscriptions, relievos, and 
 other ancient marbles, that nothing can be more stately and solemn. 
 The citron-trees are uncommonly large. In the Palace joining to it 
 are innumerable collections of value. 
 
 In St. Agnes Church is a tribunal of antiq Mosaiq, and on the 
 altar a most rich Ciborio of brasse with a statue of St. Agnes in 
 Oriental alabaster. The Church of S ta Constanza has a noble cupola. 
 Here they shew'd us a stone^ship borne on a column heretofore sacred 
 
102 [rome. 1644. 
 
 to Bacchus, as the relievo intimates by the drunken emblemes and 
 instruments wrought upon it. The altar is of rich porphyrie, as I 
 remember. Looking back we had the intire view of the Via Pia 
 downe to the two houses before the Monte Cavallo before mention'd, 
 one of the most glorious sights for state and magnificence that any 
 Citty can shew a traveller. We return'd by Porta Pia and the Via 
 Salaria, neere Campo Scelerato, in whose gloomy caves the wanton 
 vestals were heretofore im'ured alive. 
 
 Thence to Via Felix a straite and noble streete but very precipitous, 
 till we came to the Fountaines of Lepidus, built at the abbutments of 4 
 stately wayes, making an exact Crosse of right angles ; and at the 
 Fountaines are as many cumbent figures of marble under very large 
 niches of stone, the water pouring into huge basins. The Church of 
 St. Carlo is a singular fabriq for neatnesse, of an oval designe, built of 
 a new white stone ; the columns are worth notice. Under it is another 
 Church of a structure nothing lesse admirable. 
 
 S ta Maria Maggiore is on the Esquiline Mountaine, which gives it a 
 most conspicuous face to the streete at a greate distance. The design 
 is mix'd, partly antiq, partly moderne. Here they affirme that the Bl. 
 Virgin appearing, shew'd where it should be built 300 yeares since. 
 The first pavement is rare and antiq ; so is the portico built by P. P. 
 Eugenius II. The Ciborio is the worke of Paris Romano, and the 
 Tribunal of Mosaic. We were shew'd in the Church a Concha of por- 
 phyrie wherein they say Patricius the founder lyes. This is one of 
 the most famous of the J Roman Churches, and is in my opinion at 
 least, after St. Peter's, the most magnificent. Above all, for incompa- 
 rable glory and materials, are the two Chapels of Sextus V. and 
 Paulus V. That of Sextus was design'd by Dom. Fontana, in which 
 are two rare greate statues, and some good pieces of painting; and here 
 they pretended to shew some of the Holy Innocents bodyes slaine by 
 Herod. That renown'd tabernacle of metall gilt, sustained by 4 angels 
 holding as many tapers, is placed on the altar. In this Chapel is the 
 statue of Sextus in copper, with basse relievo's of most of his famous 
 acts in Parian marble. But that of P. Paulus opposite to this, is beyond 
 a.ll imagination glorious and beyond description. It is so incircl'd with 
 
t 
 
 ROME. Itf44-] 
 
 103 
 
 achates and other most precious materials as to dazzle and confound the 
 beholders. The basse relievo's are for the most part of pure snowy 
 marble, intermixed with figures of molten brasse double gilt on lapis 
 lazuli. The altar is a most stupendous piece ; but most incomparable 
 is the cupola, painted by Cavaliero Giuseppe Rheni and the present 
 Baglioni, full of exquisite sculptures. There is a most sumptuous Sa- 
 cristia ; and the piece over the altar was by the hand of St. Luke, if 
 you will believe it. Paule V. hath here likewise built two other altars ; 
 under the one lye the bones of the Apostle St. Mathias. In another 
 Oratory is the statue of this Pope, and the head of the Congo Ambas- 
 sador who was converted at Rome and dy'd here. In a third Chapel 
 design'd by M. Angelo lyes the body of Platina, and the Cardinal of 
 Toledo, Honorius III. Nicephorus IV. the ashes of St. Hierom, and 
 many others. In that of Sextus V. before mentioned was shew'd us 
 part of the crib in which Christ was swaddl'd at Bethlem ; there is also 
 the statue of Pius V. Going out at the further end is the resurrection 
 of Lazarus by a very rare hand. In the portico is this late inscription : 
 " Cardinali Antonio Barberino Archipresbytero, aream marmoream 
 quam Christianorum pietas exculpit, laborante sub Tyrannis ecclesia, 
 ut esset loci sanctitate venerabilior, Franciscus Gualdus Arm. Eques 
 S. Stephani, h suis aedibus hue transtulit et ornavit 1632." Just before 
 this portico stands a very sublime and stately Corinthian columne of 
 white marble, translated hither for an ornament from the old Temple 
 of Peace built by Vespasian, having on the plinth of the capital the 
 image of our Lady gilt on mettal ; at the pedestal runs a fountaine. — 
 Going downe the hill we saw the Obelisq taken from the Mauso- 
 leum of Augustus, and erected in this place by Domenico Fontana, 
 with this epigraphe : " Sixtus V. Pont. Max. obeliscum iEgypto ad- 
 vectum, Augusti in mausoleo dicatum, eversum deinde et in plures 
 confractum partes, in via ad S. Rochum jacentem, in pristinam 
 faciem restitutum, Salutiferse Cruci felicius hie erigi jussit anno 
 M.D.L.XXXVIII. Pont. III." 
 
 At the foote of this hill is the Church of St. Pudentia, in which is a 
 well fill'd with the blood and bones of several Martyrs, but grated over 
 
104 
 
 [ROME. 1644- 
 
 with yron ; it is visited by many Devota's. Neere this is the Church 
 of her sister S. Praxedeis, much frequented for the same reason. In a 
 little obscure place cancelled in with yron worke, is the Pillar or Stump 
 at which they relate our Bl. Saviour was scourged, being full of bloudy 
 spotts, at which the devout sex are always rubbing their chaplets, and 
 convey their kisses by a stick having a tassel on it. Here, besides a 
 noble statue of St. Peter, is the tomb of the famous Cardinal Cajetan, 
 an excellent piece. Here they hold that St. Peter sayd his first masse 
 at Rome with the same altar and the stone he kneeled on, he having 
 been first lodged in this house, as they compute, about the 44th yeare 
 of the incarnation. They also shew many reliques, or rather raggs, of 
 his mantle. In the Church of St. Laurence in Panisperna is the Grid- 
 iron on which that Martyr was broyl'd. St. Brigit is buried in this 
 Church under a stately monument. In the front of the pile is the suf- 
 fering of St. Laurence painted afresca on the wall. The fabriq is 
 nothing but Gotic. On the left is the Therma Novatii, and on the 
 right Agrippina's Lavacrum. 
 
 14 Nov. We pass'd againe thro' the stately Capitol and Campo 
 Vaccino towards the Amphitheatre of Vespasian, but were first stay'd 
 to looke at Titus's triumphal Arch erected by the people of Rome in 
 honour of his victory at Jerusalem, on the left-hand whereof he is 
 represented drawne in a charriot with 4 horses abreast ; on the right- 
 hand, or side of the arch within, is sculptur'd in figures, or basse-re- 
 lievo as big as the life, and in one intire marble, the Arke of the Cove- 
 nant, on which stands the seaven-branch'd candlestick describ'd in Le- 
 viticus, as also the two Tables of the Law, all borne on men's shoul- 
 ders by the bans, as they are describ'd in some of St. Hierom's Bibles ; 
 before this go many crown'd and laureated figures, and 12 Roman 
 fasces, with sacred vessels. This much confirmed the idea I before 
 had ; and, for the light it gave to the Holy History, I caused my 
 paynter Carlo to copy it exactly. The rest of the worke of the Arch is 
 of the noblest, best understood composita. 
 
 S ta Maria Nova is on the place where they told us Simon Magus 
 fell out of the ayre at St. Peter's prayer, and burst himselfe to pieces 
 
ROME. l()44j 
 
 105 
 
 on a flint. Neere this is a marble monument erected by the people of 
 Rome in memory of the Pope's returne from Avignon. 
 
 Being now pass'd the mines of Meta sudante (which stood be- 
 fore the Colosseum) provided to refresh the gladiators, we enter 
 the mighty mines of the Vespasian Amphitheatre, begun by Ves- 
 pasian, and finished by that excellent prince Titus. It is 830 Ro- 
 man palmes in length (i. e. 130 paces), 90 in breadth at the area, 
 with caves for the wild beasts which us'd to be baited by men in- 
 stead of doggs ; the whole oval peripheria 2888f palmes, and ca- 
 pable of containing 87,000 spectators with ease and all accomo- 
 dation : the 3 rowes of circles are yet entire ; the first was for the 
 senators, the middle for the nobility, the third for the people. At 
 the dedication of this place were 5000 wild beasts slain in 3 months 
 during which the feast lasted, to the expence of 10 millions of gold. 
 It is built of Tiburtine stone, a vast height, with the 5 orders of 
 architecture, by 30,000 captive Jewes. It is, without, of a perfect 
 circle, and was once adorn'd thick with statues, and remained intire 
 till of late that some of the stones were carried away to repaire the Citty 
 walls, and build the Farnesian Palace. That which still appeares most 
 admirable is, the contrivance of the porticos, vaults, and staires, with 
 the excessive altitude, which well deserves this distich of the poet : 
 " Omnis Caesario cedat labor Amphitheatre), 
 Unum pro cunctis fama loquatur opus." 
 Neere it is a small chapell call'd S ta Maria della Pieta nel Colisseo, 
 which is erected on the steps or stages very lofty at one of its sides 
 or ranges within, and where there lives only a melancholy hermite. I 
 ascended to the very top of it with wonderfull admiration. 
 
 The Arch of Constantine the Great is close by the Meta sudante 
 before mentioned, at the beginning of the Via Appia on one side of 
 Monte Celio, and is perfectly intire, erected by the people in memorv 
 of his victory over Maxentius at the Pons Milvius, now Ponte Mole. 
 In the front is this inscription : 
 
 IMP. CAES. FL. CONSTANTINO MAXIMO 
 
 P. F. AVGVSTO S. P. ft. K . 
 aVOD 1NST1NCTV DIVINITATIS MENTIS 
 
 MAGNITVDINE CVM EXERCITV SVO 
 TAM DE TYRANNO &VAM DE OMNI EIVS 
 VOL. I. P 
 
106 
 
 [ROME. l6'44. 
 
 FACTIONE VNO TEMPORE IV3TIS 
 REMPVBLICAM VLTVS EST ARMIS 
 ARCVM TRIVMPHIS 1NSIGNEM DICAV1T. 
 
 Hence we went to St. Gregorio in Monte Celio, where are many 
 privileged altars, and there they shew'd us an arme of that Saint and 
 other reliques. Before this Church stands a very nohle portico. 
 
 17. I walked to Villa Borghesi, a house and ample garden on 
 Mons Pincius, yet somewhat without the Citty walls, circumscrib'd by 
 another wall full of small turrets and banqueting-houses, which makes 
 it appeare at a distance like a little towne. Within it is an elysium 
 of delight, having in the centre a noble Palace ; but the enterance of 
 the garden presents us with a very glorious fabrick or rather dore- 
 case adorn'd with divers excellent marble statues. This garden 
 abounded with all sorts of delicious fruit and exotiq simples, fountaines 
 of sundry inventions, groves, and small rivulets. There is also ad- 
 joining to it a vivarium of estriges, peacocks, swanns, cranes, &c. and 
 divers strange beasts, deare, and hares. The grotto is very rare, and 
 represents among other devices artificial raine, and sundry shapes 
 of vessells, flowers, &c. which is effected by changing the heads of 
 the fountaines. The groves are of cypresse, laurell, pine, myrtil, 
 olive, &c. The 4 sphinxes are very antique and worthy observation. 
 To this is a volary full of curious birds. The house is square, with 
 turrets from which the prospect is excellent towards Rome and the 
 invironing hills, covered as they now are with snow, w ch indeed com- 
 monly continues even a great part of the sum'er, affording great 
 refreshment. Round the house is a balustre of white marble, with 
 frequent jettos of water, and adorn'd with a multitude of statues. The 
 walls of the house are cover'd with antiq incrustations of history, as 
 that of Curtius, the Rape of Europa, Leda, &c. The cornices above 
 consist of frutages and festoons, between w ch are niches furnish'd with 
 statues, w ch order is observ'd to the very roofe. In the lodge at the 
 entry are divers good statues of consuls, &c. with two pieces of field 
 artillery upon carriages (a mode much practized in Italy before the 
 great men's houses), which they looke on as a piece of state more than 
 defence. In the first hall within are the 12 Roman Emperors, of 
 excellent marble : 'twixt them stand porphyry columns and other 
 
ROME. 1644] 
 
 107 
 
 precious stones of vast height and magnitude, with urnes of Oriental 
 alabaster. Tables of Pietra-Commessa. Here is that renown'd Diana 
 w fh Pompey worshipp'd ; the most incomparable Seneca, of touch 
 bleeding in an huge vasa of porphyrie, resembling the dropps of 
 his blood ; the so famous gladiator, and the Hermaphrodite upon 
 a quilt of stone. The new piece of Daphne, and David, of Ca- 
 valiero Bernini, is observable for the pure whiteness of the stone, 
 and the art of the statuary w ch is stupendious. There are a multitude 
 of rare pictures of infinite value by the best masters ; huge tables of 
 porphyrie, and two exquisitely-wrought vases of the same. In another 
 chamber are divers sorts of instruments of musiq : amongst other toyes 
 that of a satyre with so artificialy express'd an human voice, with 
 the motion of eyes and head, that it might easily affright one who was 
 not prepared for that most extravagant sight. They shew'd us also a 
 chayre w nh catches any who sitts downe in it so as not to be able 
 to stirr out, by certaine springs concealed in the armes and back 
 thereoff, which at sitting downe surprizes a man on the suddaine, lock- 
 ing him in by the armes and thighs, after a true tretcherous Italian 
 guise. The perspective is considerable, compos'd by the position of 
 looking-glasses, which render a strange multiplication of things re- 
 sembling divers most richly-furnish'd roomes. Here stands a rare clock 
 of German worke ; in a word, nothing but what is magnificent is to be 
 seen in this paradise. 
 
 The next day I went to the Vatican, where in the morning I saw 
 the ceremony of Pamfilio the Pope's nephew receiving a Cardinal's 
 hat; this was the first time I had seen his holiness in pontificalibus. 
 After the Cardinals and Princes had met in the Consistory, the cere- 
 mony was in the Pope's Chapell, where he was at the altar invested with 
 most pompous rites. 
 
 17 Nov\ I visited St. Peter's, that most stupendious and incom- 
 parable Basilicum, far surpassing any now extant in the world, and 
 perhaps, Solomon's Temple excepted, any that was ever built. The 
 largeness of the piazza before the portico is worth observing, because it 
 affords a noble prospect of the Church, not crowded up as for the most 
 part is the case in other places where greate churches are erected. In 
 this is a fountaine out of which gushes a river rather than a streeme, 
 
108 
 
 [ROME l6'44- 
 
 which ascending a good height hreakes upon a round embosse of marble 
 into millions of pearles that fall into the subjacent basons with 
 greate noise ; I esteeme this one of the goodliest fountaines I ever saw. 
 
 Next is the Obelisq transported out of Egypt and dedicated by 
 Octavius Augustus to Julius Caesar, whose ashes it formerly bore 
 on the sumit ; but being since overturn'd by the Barbarians, was re- 
 erected with vast cost and a most stupendious invention by Domenico 
 Fontana, architect to Sixtus V. The Obelisk consists of one intire 
 square stone without hieroglyphic, in height 72 foote, but compre- 
 hending the base and all 'tis 108 foote high. It rests on 4 lyons of 
 gilded copper. You may see through the base of the Obelisq and plinth 
 of the piedestal. Upon two faces of the Obelisq is engraven : 
 
 DIVO CAES. DIVI 
 IVLII F. AVGVSTO 
 TI. CAES. DIVI. AVG. 
 F. AVGVST. SACRVM. 
 
 It now beares on the top a crosse in which 'tis sayd that Sixtus V. 
 inclosed some of the holy wood ; and under it is to be read by good eves : 
 
 SANCTISSIMAE CRVCI 
 SIXTVS V. PONT. MAX 
 CONSECRAVIT. 
 £ PRIORE SEDE AVVLSVM 
 ET CAESS. AVG. AC TIB. 
 I. L. ABLATVM M.D.LXXXVI. 
 
 On the foure faces of the base below : 
 
 1. CHRISTVS VINC1T. 
 
 CHRISTVS REGNAT. 
 
 CHRISTVS IMPERAT. 
 CHRISTVS AB OMNI MALO 
 PLEBEM SVAM DEFENDAT. 
 
 2. SIXTVS V. PONT. MAX. 
 OBEL1SCVM VATICANVM DIIS GENTIVM 
 IMPIO CVLTV DICATVM 
 AD APOSTOLORVM LIMINA 
 OPEROSO LABORE TRANSTVLIT 
 AN. M. D. LXXXVI. PONT. II. 
 
 3. ECCE CRVX DOMINI 
 FVGITE PARTES 
 ADVERSAE 
 VINCIT LEO 
 DE TRIBV IVDA. 
 
 4. SIXTVS V. PONT. MAX. 
 CRVCI INVICTAE 
 
ROME. 1644] 
 
 109 
 
 OBEL1SCVM VATICANVM 
 AB IMPIA SVPERSTITIONE 
 
 EXPIATVM IUSTIVS 
 ET FELICIVS CONSECRAVIT 
 AN. M.D.L.XXXVI. PONT. II. 
 
 A little lower : 
 
 DOMINICVS FONTANA EX PAGOMILIAGRI NOVOCOMENSIS TRANSTVLIT ET EREXIT. 
 
 It is reported to have taken a year in erecting, to have cost 3^,9J5 
 crowns, the labor of 907 men and ?5 horses ; it was the first of the 4 
 Egvptian Obelisks set up at Rome, and one of the 42 brought to the 
 Citty out of Egypt, set up in several places, but thrown down by the 
 Goths, Barbarians, and Earthquakes. See Platina in Vita Pontiff, p. 
 315. — Some coaches stood before the stepps of the ascent, whereof 
 one belonging to Card 1 . Medici had all the metall worke of massy 
 silver ; viz. the bow behind and other places. The coaches at Rome, 
 as well as cover'd wagons w cb are also much in use, are generally 
 the richest and largest I ever saw. Before the faciata of the Church is 
 an ample pavement. The Church was first begun by St. Anacletus 
 when rather a Chapel, on a foundation as they give out of Constan- 
 tine the Great, who in honour of the Apostles carried 12 baskets full of 
 sand to the work. After him Julius II. tooke it in hand, to which all 
 his successors have contributed more or less. 
 
 The front is suppos'd to be the largest and best studied piece of 
 architecture in the world ; to this we went up by 4 stepps of marble. 
 The first entrance is supported by huge pilasters ; the volto within is 
 the richest in the world, overlayd with gold. Between the 5 large 
 anti-ports are columns of enormous height and compass, with as many 
 gates of brasse the worke and sculpture of Pollajuolo the Florentine, 
 full of cast figures and histories in a deepe relievo. Over this runs 
 a terrace of like amplitude and ornament, where the Pope at solemn 
 times bestowes his benediction on the vulgar. On each side of this 
 portico are two campaniles, or towers, whereof there was but one per- 
 fected, of admirable art. On the top of all runns a balustrade w cb 
 edges it quite round, and upon this at equal distances are Christ and 
 the 12 Disciples of gigantic size and stature, yet below shewing no 
 greater than the life. Entring the Church, admirable is the bredth of 
 the volto or roofe w cb is all carv'd with foliage and roses overlayd w th 
 gold in nature of a deepe bass relievo, a V antiq. The nave, or body, 
 
no 
 
 [ROME. 1644. 
 
 is in forme of a crosse, whereof the foote part is the longest ; and at the 
 internodium of the transept rises y e cupola, \v ch being all of stone and 
 of prodigious height is more in compasse than y l of the Pantheon (w ch 
 was the largest amongst the old Romans, and is yet intire) or any other 
 in y c world. The inside or concave is cover'd w th most exquisite Mo- 
 saic} representing the Celestial Hierarchy, by Giuseppe d'Arpino, full 
 of starrs of gold ; the convex or outside expos'd to y e aire, is cover'd 
 w' h lead w tu great ribbs of metall double guilt (as are also the ten 
 other lesser cupolas, for no fewer adorn this glorious structure) which 
 gives a great and admirable splendor in all parts of y e Citty. On the 
 sum'it of this is fix'd a hrasen globe gilt, capable of receiving 35 
 persons. This I entered and engrav'd my name amongst other travel- 
 lers. Lastly is the crosse, the access to \v ch is betweene the leaden co- 
 vering and the stone convex or arch-worke, a most truly astonishing 
 piece of art. On the battlements of the Church, also all overlayd \v th 
 lead and marble, you would imagine yourself in a town, so many are 
 the cupolas, pinnacles, towers, juttings, and not a few houses inhabited 
 bv men who dwell there, and have enough to do to looke after the vast 
 reparations vv ch continually employ them. 
 
 We descended into the body of the Church, which is full of col- 
 laterall Chapells and large Oratories, most of them exceeding the size 
 of ordinary Churches ; but the principal are fowre incrusted with most 
 precious marbles and stones of various colours, adorn'd with an infinity 
 of statues, pictures, stately altars, and innumerable reliques. The 
 altar-piece of St. Michael being of Mosaiq I could not passe without 
 particular note, as one of the best of that kind. The Chapel of Gre- 
 gory XIII. where he is buried, is most splendid. Under the cupola, 
 and in y° center of the Church, stands the high altar, consecrated first 
 by Clement VIII. adorn'd by Paul V. and lately cover'd by Pope 
 Urban VIII. with that stupendous canopy of Corinthian brasse which 
 heretofore was brought from the Pantheon ; it consists of 4 wreath 'd 
 columns partly channel'd and ineircl'd with vines, on which hang- 
 little puti, birds and bees (the armes of the Barbarini), sustaining 
 a baldachino of the same mettal. The 4 columns weigh an hundred 
 and ten thousand pounds, all over richly gilt ; this with the pedes- 
 talls, crowne, and statues about it, form a thing of y* art, vastness, 
 
ROME. 1C44-] 
 
 Ill 
 
 and magnificence, as is beyond all that man's industry has produced 
 of the kind : it is the work of Bernini, a Florentine sculptor, architect, 
 painter, and poet, who, a little before my coming to the Citty, gave a 
 publiq Opera (for so they call shews of that kind) wherein he painted 
 the scenes, cut the statues, invented the engines, compos'd the musiq, 
 writ the comedy, and built the theatre. Opposite to either of these 
 pillars, under those niches which with their columns support the 
 weighty cupola, are placed 4 exquisite statues of Parian marble, to 
 which are 4 altars ; that of St. Veronica made by Fra. Mochi, has over 
 it the Reliquary, where they shew'd us the miraculous Sudarium in- 
 dued w th the picture of o r Saviour's face, with this inscription : " Salva- 
 toris imaginem Veronicse Sudario excepta ut loci majestas decenter 
 custodiret, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. Marmoreum signum et Altare 
 addidit, Conditorium extruxit et ornavit." 
 
 Right against this is y* of Longinus, of a Colossean magnitude, also by 
 Bernini, and over him the Conservatory of y e iron lance inserted in a most 
 precious chrystal, with this epigraph : " Longini Lancearn quam Inno- 
 centius VIII. a Basagete Turcarum Tyranno accepit, Urbanus VIII. sta- 
 tua apposita, et Sacello substructo, in exornatum Conditorium transtulit." 
 
 The third Chapel has over the altar the statue of our country- 
 woman St. Helena the mother of Constantine the Great, the worke of 
 Boggi, an excellent sculptor ; and here is preserved a greate piece of the 
 pretended wood of the holy crosse, which she is said to have first detected 
 miraculously in the Holy Land. It was placed here by the late Pope 
 with this inscription : " Partem Crucis quam Helena Imperatrix h Cal- 
 vario in Urbem adduxit, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. e Sissoriana. Basi- 
 lica desumptam, additis ara. et statua, Inc in Vaticano collocavit." 
 
 The 4th hath over the altar, and opposite to that of St. Veronica, 
 the statue of St. Andrew, the worke of Fiamingo, admirable above all 
 the other ; above is preserv'd the head of y l Apostle richly inchas'd. 
 It is said that this excellent sculptor died mad to see his statue placed 
 in a disadvantageous light by Bernini the chiefe architect, who found 
 himselfe outdone by this artist. The inscription over it is this : 
 
 " St. Andreae caput quod Pius II. ex Achaia in Vaticanum asportandum 
 curavit, Urbanus VIII. novis hie ornamentis decoratum, sacrisq' statute, ac 
 Sacelli honoribus coli voluit." 
 
112 
 
 [rome. 16*44- 
 
 The Reliques shew'd and kept in this Church are without number, 
 as are also the precious vessels of gold, silver, and gems, with the vests 
 and services to be seene in the Sacristy, which they shew'd us. Under 
 the high altar is an ample grot inlaid with Pietra Com'essa, wherein 
 half of the bodies of St. Peter and St. Paul are preserv'd ; before hang 
 divers greate lamps of the richest plate burning continually. About 
 this and contiguous to the altar rutins a balustrade in forme of a 
 theatre, of black marble. Towards the left as you goe out of the 
 Church by the portico, a little beneath the high altar is an old brasse 
 statue of St. Peter sitting, under the soles of whose feete many devout 
 persons rub their heads and touch their chaplets. This was formerly 
 cast from a statue of Jupiter Capitolinus. In another place stands a 
 columne grated about w th yron, whereon they report that our Bl. Sa- 
 viour was often wont to leane as he preached in the Temple. In the 
 work of the reliquary under the cupola there are 8 wreathed columns 
 w ch were brought from the Temple of Solomon. In another Chapell 
 they shew'd us the chayre of St. Peter, or as they name it, the Apos- 
 tolical Throne ; but amongst all the Chapells the one most glorious 
 has for an altar-piece a Madona bearing a dead Christ on her knees 
 in white marble, the work of M. Angelo. At the upper end of the 
 Cathedral are several stately monuments, especialy that of Urban VIII. 
 Round the cupola and in many other places in the Church are con- 
 fession-seates for all languages, Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Spanish, Italian, 
 French, English, Irish, Welsh, Sclavonian, Dutch, &c. as it is written 
 on their freezes in golden capitals, and there are still at confessions 
 some of all nations. Towards the lower end of the Church and on 
 the side of a vast pillar sustaining a weighty roofe, is the depositum 
 and statue of the Countess Matilda, a rare piece, vv th basso-relievos 
 about it of white marble, the worke of Bernini. Here are also those 
 of Sextus IV. and Paulus III. &c. Amongst the exquisite pieces in 
 this sumptuous fabriq is that of the Ship with St. Peter held up from 
 sinking by o r Saviour; the emblems about it are the Mosaiq of the 
 famous Giotto, who restor'd and made it perfect after it had been 
 defaced by the Barbarians. Nor is the pavement under the cupola to 
 be passed over without observation, which with the rest of the body 
 and walls of the whole Church, are all inlaid with the richest of 
 
ROME. 1644.] 
 
 113 
 
 Pietra Com'essa, in the most splendid colours of polish'd marbles, 
 achats, serpentine, porphyry, calcedone, &c. wholy incrusted to y e 
 very roofe. Coming out by the portico at which we entred, we were 
 sheu'd the Porto Santo, never opened but at the year of jubilee. This 
 glorious foundation hath belonging to it 30 Canons, 36 Beneficiates, 
 28 Clearks benefie'd, with in'umerable Chaplaines, &c. a Cardinal 
 being always Arch-Priest ; the present Cardinal was Franc. Barberini, 
 who also stiled himselfe Protector of the English, to whom he was 
 indeede very courteous. 
 
 20 Nov. I went to visite that ancient See and Cathedral of St. John 
 de Laterana, and the holy places thereabout. This is a Church of 
 extraordinary devotion, though for outward forme not comparable to St. 
 Peter's, being of Gotiq ordonance. Before we went into the Cathedral, 
 the Baptisterie of St. John Baptist presented itselfe, being formerly 
 parte of the Greate Constantine's Palace, and as it is sayd, his chamber 
 where by St. Silvester he was made a Christian ; it is octagonal, hav- 
 ing before the entrance 8 faire pillars of rich porphyrie, each of one 
 intire piece, their capitalls of divers orders supporting lesser columnes 
 of white marble, and these supporting a noble cupola, the moulding 
 whereof is excellently wrought. Women are prohibited from entering 
 this chamber, for the malice of Herodias who caus'd him to loose his 
 head. Here are deposited several sacred reliques of St. James, Mary 
 Magdalen, St. Matthew, &c. and two goodly pictures. Another Cha- 
 pel or Oratory neere it is called St. John the Evangelist, well adorn'd 
 w lh marbles and tables, especialy those of Cavalier Giuseppe, and of 
 Tempesta, in fresco. We went hence into another called St. Venan- 
 tius, in which is a Tribunal all of Mosaic] in figures of Popes ; here is 
 also an altar of the Madona much visited, and divers Sclavonish Saints, 
 companions of Pope John IV. The portico of the Church is built of 
 materials brought from Pontius Pilate's house in Jerusalem. 
 
 The next sight which attracted our attention was a wonderful con- 
 course of people at their devotions before a place call'd Scala Sancta, 
 to which is built a noble front. Entering the portico, we saw those 
 large marble stayres, 28 in number, which are never ascended but on 
 the knees, some lip-devotion being us'd on every step, on which you 
 
 VOL. I. Q 
 
114 
 
 [rome. lf>44. 
 
 may perceive divers red specks of blood under a grate which they 
 affirme to have been drops of o r Bl. Saviour at the time he was so bar- 
 barously mis-us'd by Herod's souldiers, for these stayres are reported 
 to have been translated hither from his Palace in Jerusalem. At the 
 top of these stayres is a Chapell, whereat they enter, but we could not 
 be permitted, by gates of marble, being the same our Saviour passed 
 when he went out of Herod's house. This they name the Sanctum 
 Sanctorum, and over it we read this epigraph : JSfon est in toto sanc- 
 tior orbe locus. Here, through a grate, we saw that picture of Christ 
 paynted as they say by St. Luke to the life. Descending again, we 
 saw before the Church the Obelise, which is indeed most worthy of 
 admiration. It formerly lay in the Circo Maximo, and was erected 
 here by Sixtus V. in 1587, being 112 foote in height without the base 
 or pedestal ; at y e foote 9^ one way and 8 the other. This pillar was first 
 brought from Thebes at the utmost confines of Egypt, to Alexandria, 
 from thence to Constantinople, thence to Rome, and is said by Ammi- 
 anus Marcellinus to have been dedicated to Ramises King of Egypt. 
 It was transferr'd to this City by Constantine the sonne of the Great, 
 and is full of hieroglyphics, serpents, men, owles, falcons, oxen, instru- 
 ments, &c. containing (as Father Kercher the Jesuit will shortly tell 
 us in a book which he is ready to publish) all the recondite and abstruse 
 learning of that people. The vessel, gaily, or floate y l brought it to 
 Rome so many hundred leagues must needs have been of wonderful big- 
 nesse and strange fabriq. The stone is one and intire, and [having 
 been thrown down] was erected by the famous Dom. Fontana for that 
 magnificent Pope Sixtus V. as the rest were ; 'tis now cracked in many 
 places, but solidly joyn'd. The Obelisk is thus inscrib'd at the several 
 faciatas : 
 
 Fl. Constantinus Augustus, Constantini Augusti F. Obeliscum a patre suo 
 motum diuq; Alexandria? jacentem trecentorum remigum impositum navi 
 mirandi vastitatis per mare Tiberimq; magnis molibus Romam convectum in 
 Circo Max. ponendum S. P. Q. R. D. D. 
 
 On the second square : 
 
 Fl. Constantinus Max: Aug: Christianae fidei Vindex & Assertor Obeliscum 
 ab iEgyptio Rege impure- voto Soli dicatum sedibus avulsum suis per Nilum 
 
ROME. lf)44.] 
 
 115 
 
 transfer. Alexandrian! ut novam Roniam ab se tunc conditam eo decoraret 
 monumento. 
 
 On the third : 
 
 SixtusV. Pontifex Max: Obeliscum hunc specie eximia temporum calamitate 
 fractum, Circi Maximi minis humo limoq; alte demersum, multa impensa 
 extraxit, hunc in locum magno labore transtulit, formaeq; pristinae accurate 
 vestitum, Cruci invictissimae dicavit anno M.D.LXXXVIII. Pont. 1 1 II. 
 
 On the fourth : 
 
 Constantinus per Crucern Victor a Silvestro hie baptisatus Crucis gloriam 
 propagavit. 
 
 Leaving this wonderful monument (before which is a stately publiq 
 fountaine, w th a statue of St. John in the middle of it) we visited his 
 Holyness's Palace, being a little upon the left hand, the designe of Fon- 
 tana architect to Sixtus V.; this I take to be one of the best Palaces in 
 Rome ; but not staying, we enterd the Church of St. John de Lateran, 
 w ch is properly the Cathedral of the Roman See, as I learn 'd by these 
 verses engraven upon the architrave of the portico : 
 
 Dogmate Papali datur, et simul Imperiali 
 
 Quod sim cunctarum mater caput Ecclesiaru 
 
 Hinc Salvatoris ccelestia regna datoris 
 
 Nomine sanxerunt, cum cuncta peracta fuerunt ; 
 
 Sic vos ex toto conversi supplice voto 
 
 Nostra quod haec aedes tibi Christe sit inclyta sedes. 
 
 'Tis call'd Lotej'an from a noble family dwelling it seems here- 
 abouts, on Mons Cselius. The Church is Gotiq, and hath a stately 
 tribunal; the paintings are of Pietro Pisano. It was the first Church 
 y x was consecrated with the ceremonies now introdue'd ; and where 
 altars of stone supplied those of wood, heretofore in use and made like 
 large chests for the easier removal in times of persecution, such an 
 altar is still the greate one here preserved, as being that on which (they 
 hold) St. Peter celebrated masse at Rome, for which reason none but the 
 Pope may now presume to make that use of it. The pavement is of all 
 sorts of precious marbles, and so are the walles to a great height, over 
 which 'tis painted a fvesca with the life and acts of Constantine the 
 Greate, by most excellent masters. The organs are rare, supported 
 
116 
 
 [rome. ] 644. 
 
 by 4 columns. The suffito is all richly gilded and full of pictures. Op- 
 posite to the porte is an altar of exquisite architecture with a tabernacle 
 on it all of precious stones, the worke of Targoni ; on this is a Ccena of 
 plate, the invention of Curtius Vanni, of exceeding value; the tables 
 hanging over it are of Giuseppe d'Arpino. About this are 4 excellent 
 coluinnes transported out of Asia by the Emperor Titus, of brasse double 
 gilt, about 12 foote in height; the walls betweene them are incrusted 
 vv th marble and set with statues in niches, the vacuum reported to be fill'd 
 with holy earth w ch St. Helena sent from Jerusalem to her sonn Constan- 
 tine, who set these pillars where they now stand. At one side of this is 
 an Oratory full of rare paintings and monuments, especially those of the 
 great Connestable Colonna. Out of this we came into the Sacristia, full 
 of good pictures of Albert and others. At the end of the Church is a flat 
 stone supported by 4 pillars which they affirme to have beene the exact 
 height of our Bl. Saviour, which they say never fitted any mortal man 
 that tried it, but he was either taller or shorter ; two columns of the 
 vaile of the Temple which rent at his passion ; the stone on which they 
 threw lots for his seamelesse vesture, and the pillar on which the cock 
 crow'd after Peter's denial ; and, to omit no fine thing, the just length 
 of the Virgin Mary's foote as it seems her shoemaker afErm'd. Here is a 
 most sumptuous crosse beset with precious stones, containing some of 
 the very wood of the holy crosse itselfe ; with many other things of this 
 sort. Here are many most magnificent monuments, especialy those of 
 St. Helen of porphyrie ; Cardinal Farneze : Martine the first of copper. 
 The pictures of Mary Magdalen, Martine V., Laurent. Valla, &c. are of 
 Gaetano ; the Nunciata y design'd by M. Angelo ; and the greate Cru- 
 cifix of Sermoneta. In a Chapel at one end of the porch is a statue of 
 Henry IV. of France in brasse, standing in a darke hole, and so has 
 don many yeares ; perhaps from not believing him a thorough proselyte. 
 The 2 famous (Ecumenical Councils were celebrated in this Church by 
 Pope Simachus, Martin the first, Stephen, &c. 
 
 Leaving this venerable Church (for in truth it has a certaine majesty 
 in it) we pass'd through a faire and large Hospital of good architecture, 
 having some inscriptions put up by Barberini, the late Pope's nephew. 
 We then went by St. Sylvia, where is a noble statue of St. Gregory P. 
 
ROME. 1^44.] 
 
 117 
 
 began by M. Angelo, a St. Andrewe, and the Bath of St. Cecilia. In 
 this Church are some rare paintings, especialy that story on the wall of 
 Guido Rheni. — Thence to St. Giovanni e Paula, where the Friers are 
 reported to be greate chymists. The quire, roofe and paintings in the 
 Tribuna are excellent. — Descending the Mons Cselius we come against 
 the vestiges of the Palazzo Maggiore, heretofore the Golden House of 
 Nero; now nothing but an heape of vast and confused mines, to shew 
 what time and the vicissitude of human things dos change from the 
 most glorious and magnificent to the most deformed and confused. — We 
 next went into St. Sebastian's Church, which has an handsome front. 
 We then pass'd by the place where Romulus and Remus were taken 
 up by Faustulus ; the Forum Romanum ; and so by the edge of the 
 Mons Palatums, where we were shew'd the ruines of Pompey's house, 
 and the Church of St. Anacletus ; and so into the Circus Maximus, 
 heretofore capable of containing an hundred and sixty thousand spec- 
 tators, but now all one entire heape of rubbish, part of it converted into 
 a garden of pot-herbs. We concluded this evening with hearing the 
 rare voices and musiq at the Chiesa Nova. 
 
 21 Nov. I was carried to see a great virtuoso Cavaliero Pozzo, 
 who shew'd us a rare collection of all kinds of antiquities, and a choice 
 library, over which are the effigies of most of our late men of polite 
 literature. He had a great collection of the antiq bassi -relievos about 
 Rome, w ch this curious man had caus'd to be design'd in several folios; 
 many fine medails ; the stone which Pliny calls Enhydrus ; it had 
 plainly in it the quantity of halfe a spoonfull of water, of a yellow 
 pebble colour, of the bigness of a walnut. A stone in a ring without 
 foiles, paler than an amethyst, which yet he affirm'd to be the true 
 carbuncle, and harder than a diamond ; 'twas set in a ring, without 
 foile or any thing at the bottom, so as it was transparent, of a greenish 
 yellow, more lustrous than a diamond. He had very pretty things 
 painted on crimson velvet, design'd in black, and shaded and heighten'd 
 with white, set in frames; also a number of choice designs and drawings. 
 
 Hence we walked to the Suburra and Ei ariu Saturni, where yet 
 remaine some ruines and an inscription. From thence to St. Pietro in 
 Vinculi, one of the / Churches on the Esqueline, an old and much fre- 
 
/ 
 
 118 [ROME. 1644. 
 
 quented place of greate devotion for the relicks there, especially the 
 bodyes of the seaven Maccabean breathren which lye under the alter. 
 On the wall is a St. Sebastian of Mosaic, after the Greeke manner : 
 but w l I chiefly reguarded was that noble sepulchre of Pope Julius II. 
 the worke of M. Angelo, with that never sufficiently to be admir'd 
 statue of Moses in white marble, and those of Vita Contemplativa and 
 Activa by the same incomparable hand. To this Church belongs a 
 Monastery, in the Court of whose Cloisters grow two tall and very 
 stately palme-trees. Behind these are the Bathes of Titus with pro- 
 digious receptacles for water, which the vulgar call the Setti Salt, now 
 all in heapes. 
 
 23 Nov. There was the solemne and greatest ceremony of all the 
 Ecclesiastical States, viz, the procession of the Pope (Innocent X.) to 
 St. John de Lateran. Standing on the stepps of Ara Celi, neere the 
 Capitol, 1 saw it passe in this manner : — First went a guard of 
 Swissers to make way, and divers of the avant guard of horse carrying 
 lances. Next follow'd those who carried the robes of the Cardinals, 
 two and two; then the Cardinals Mace-bearers; the Caudatari on 
 mules ; the Masters of their Horse ; the Pope's Barber, Taylor, Baker, 
 Gardner, and other domestic Officers, all on horseback in rich liveries ; 
 the Squires belonging to the guard ; 5 men in rich liveries led 5 noble 
 Neapolitan horses white as snow cover'd to the ground with trappings 
 richly embroidered, which is a service paid by the King of Spaine for 
 the kingdomes of Naples and Sicily, pretended feudatorys to the Pope ; 
 
 3 mules of exquisite beauty and price, trapp'd in crimson velvet : 3 rich 
 litters with mules, the litters empty ; the Master of the Horse alone, 
 with his Squires ; 5 Trumpeters ; the Amerieri estra muros ; the Fiscale 
 and Consistorial Advocates ; Capellani, Camerieri de honore, Cubicu- 
 lari and Chamberlaines, called Secreti ; 4 other Camerieri with 4 capps 
 of the dignity Pontifical, which were Cardinals' hatts carried on staffs; 
 
 4 Trumpets ; after them a number of noble Romans and gentlemen of 
 quality very rich, follow'd by innumerable Staffieri and Pages ; the Secre- 
 taries of the Chanceliaria, Abbreviatori-Acoliti in their long robes and 
 on mules ; Auditori di Rota ; the Deane of the Roti and Master of the 
 sacred Palace on mules, with grave but rich foote clothes, and in flat 
 
rome. 1644-] 
 
 119 
 
 episcopal hatts ; then went more of the Roman and other Nobility and 
 Courtiers, w th divers Pages in most rich liveries on horseback ; 14 Drums 
 belonging to the Capitol ; the Marshalls with their staves ; the 2 
 Sindics ; the Conservators of the Citty in robes of crimson damask ; the 
 Knight Confalonier and Prior of the R. R. in velvet tocques ; 6 of his 
 holynesses Mace-bearers ; then the Captaine or Governor of the Castle 
 of St. Angelo upon a brave prancer ; the Governor of the Citty ; on 
 both sides of these 2 long ranks of Swissers ; the Masters of the Cere- 
 monies ; the Crosse-bearer on horseback, w th two Priests at each hand 
 on foote ; Pages, Footmen, and Guards in aboundance ; then came the 
 Pope himselfe, carried in a litter or rather open chaire of crimson velvet 
 richly embrodred, and borne by two stately mules; as he went he held 
 up two fingers, blessing the multitude who were on their knees or 
 looking: out of their windows and houses, w th loud vivas and acclama- 
 tions of felicity to their new Prince. This was follow'd by the Master 
 of his Chamber, Cupp-bearer, Secretary, and Physitian ; then came 
 the Cardinal Bishops, Cardinal Priests, Cardinal Deacons, Patriarchs, 
 Archbishops, and Bishops, all in their several and distinct habits, some 
 in red, others in greene flat hatts w th tassells, all on gallant mules 
 richly trapp'd w th velvet, and lead by their servants in great state and 
 multitudes ; then came the Apostolical Protonotari, Auditor, Tresurer, 
 and Referendaries ; lastly, the Trumpets of the reare-guard, 2 Pages 
 of Armes in helmets w th feathers and carrying launces ; 2 Captaines ; 
 the Pontifical Standard of the Church : the two Alfieri or Cornets of 
 the Pope's Light Horse, who all follow'd in armor and carrying launces; 
 which, with innumerable rich coaches, litters, and people, made up 
 the procession. What they did at St. John di Laterano I could not see 
 by reason of the prodigious crowd ; so I spent most of the day in 
 viewing the two triumphal arches which had been purposely erected a 
 few days before, and till now covered ; the one by the Duke of Parma 
 in the Foro Romano, the other by the Jewes in the Capitol, w th flat- 
 tering inscriptions. They were of excellent architecture, decorated with 
 statues and aboundance of ornaments proper for y e occasion, since they 
 were but temporary, and made up of boards, cloath, &c. painted and 
 fram'd on the suddaine, but as to outward appearance solid and very 
 
120 
 
 [rome. 1(>44. 
 
 stately. The night ended w th fire-workes. That \v ch I saw was that 
 which was built before the Spanish Ambass rs house in the Piazza del 
 Trinita, and another of the French. The first appear'd to be a mighty 
 rock, bearing the Pope's armes, a dragon, and divers figures, which 
 being set on fire by one who flung a roquet at it, tooke fire immediately, 
 yet preserving the figure both of y e rock and statues a very long time, 
 insomuch as it was deemed ten thousand reports of squibbs and crackers 
 spent themselves in order. That before the French Ambass IS Palace 
 was a Diana drawne in a chariot by her doggs, with aboundance of other 
 ures as large as y e life, which plaied w th fire in the same manner. In 
 the meane time the windows of the whole Citty were set with tapers put 
 into lanterns or sconces of several colour'd oyl'd paper, that the wind 
 might not annoy them ; this render'd a most glorious shew. Besides 
 these there were at least 20 other fire-workes of vast charge and rare art 
 for their invention befor diverse Ambass ls , Princes, and Cardinals Pa- 
 laces, especialy that on the Castle of St. Angelo, being a pyramid of 
 lights, of greate height, fastned to y e ropes and cables w ch support the 
 standard-pole. The streetes were this night as light as day, full of 
 bonfires, canon roaring, musiq playing, fountaines running wine, in 
 all excesse of joy and triumph, 
 
 24 Nov. I went to the Jesuites Colledge againe, the front whereoff 
 gives place to few for its architecture, most of its ornaments being of rich 
 marble. It has within a noble Portico and Court, sustain'd by stately 
 columnes, as is the Corridor over the Portico, at the sides of which are 
 the Scholes for the Arts and Sciences, which are here taught as at the 
 University. Here I heard Father Athanasius Kercher upon a part of 
 Euclid, w ch he expounded. To this joynes a glorious and ample Church 
 for y e Students; a second is not fully finish'd ; and there are two noble 
 Libraries where I was shew'd that famous wit and historian Famianus 
 Strada. Hence we went to the house of Hippolito Vitellesco (after- 
 wards Bibliothecary of y e Vatican Library) who shew'd us one of the best 
 collections of Statues in Rome, to which he frequently talkes as if they 
 were living, pronouncing now and then orations, sentences, and verses, 
 sometimes kissing and embracing them. He has an head of Brutus 
 scarr'd in the face by order of the Senate for killing Julius ; this is much 
 
rome. 16*44.] 121 
 
 esteemed. Also a Minerva and others of greate value. This gentleman 
 not long since purchased land in the kingdome of Naples, in hope by 
 digging y e ground to find more statues; which it seemes so far suc- 
 ceeded as to be much more worth than y e purchase. We spent the 
 evening at the Chiesa Nova, where was excellent musiq ; but before 
 that began the courteous Fathers led me into a nobly- furnish'd Library 
 contiguous to their most beautifull Convent. 
 
 28. I went to see the garden and house of the Aldobrandini, now 
 Cardinal Borghese's. This palace is, for architecture, magnificence, 
 pompc and state, one of the most considerable about the Citty. It has 
 4 fronts, and a noble Piazza before it. Within the Court, under arches 
 supported by marble columns, are many excellent statues. Ascending 
 the stayres there is a rare figure of Diana of white marble. The St. Se- 
 bastian and Hermaphrodite are of stupendious art. For paintings, our 
 Saviour's head by Corregio ; several pieces of Raphael, some of which 
 are small; some of Bassano Veroneze ; the Leda, and two admirable 
 Genus's, are of Titian's pensill ; so is the Psyche and Cupid; the head 
 of St. John home by Herodias; two heads of Albert Durer, very ex- 
 quisite. We were shewn here a fine cabinet and tables of Florence- 
 worke in stone. In the garden are many fine fountaines, the walls 
 cover'd with citron-trees, which being rarely spread invest the stone 
 worke intirely ; and towards the streete, at a back gate, the Port is so 
 handsomely cloath'd with ivy as much pleas'd me. About this Palace 
 are many noble antiq bassi relievi, two especialy are placed on the 
 ground, representing armor and other military furniture of the Romans; 
 beside these stand about the garden numerous rare statues, altars, and 
 urnes. Above all, for antiquity and curiosity (as being the onely rarity 
 of that nature now knowne to remaine) is that piece of old Roman 
 pavnting representing the Roman Sponsalia, or celebration of their 
 marriage, judged to be 1400 yeares old, yet are the colours very lively 
 and the designe very intire, tho' found deepe in the ground. For this 
 morcell of painting's sake onely 'tis sayd that Borghesi purchased the 
 house, because this being on a wall in a kind of banqueting-house in y° 
 garden could not be removed, but passe with the inheritance. 
 
 VOL. I. R 
 
122 
 
 [rome. 1644. 
 
 29 Nov. I a second time visited the Medieean Palace, being neere 
 my lodging, the more exactly to have a view of the noble collections y l 
 adorne it, especialy the bass relievi and antiq frezes inserted about the 
 stone worke of the house. The Saturne of mettal standing in the 
 portico is a rare piece ; so is the Jupiter and Apollo in the hall. We 
 were now led into those roomes above we could not see before, full of 
 incomparable statues and antiquities; above all, and happly preferable 
 to any in the world, are the two Wrestlers, for the inextricable mix- 
 ture w tb each others armes and legges is stupendious. In the greate 
 chamber is the Gladiator whetting a knife ; but the Venus is without 
 parallel, being the master-piece of whose name you see graven under it 
 in old Greeke characters ; nothing in sculpture ever approached this 
 miracle of art. To this add Marcius, Ganymede, a little Apollo playing 
 on a pipe ; some relieui incrusted on the palace walls ; and an antiq vasa 
 of marble neare 6 foote high. Among the pictures may be mentioned 
 the Magdalen and St. Peter weeping. I passe over the cabinets and 
 tables of Pietra Com'essa, being the proper invention of the Floren- 
 tines. In one of the chambers is a whimsical chayre, which folded 
 into so many varieties as to turn into a bed, a bolster, a table, or a 
 couch. I had another walk in the garden, where are two huge vasa's 
 or bathes of stone. 
 
 I went farther up the hill to the Pope's Palace at Monte Cavallo, 
 where I now saw the garden more exactly, and found it to be one of 
 the most magnificent and pleasant in Rome. I am told the gardener is 
 annualy alowed 2000 scudi for the keeping it. Here I observ'd hedges 
 of myrtle above a man's height ; others of laurell, oranges, nay of ivy 
 and juniper; the close walks, and rustic grotto; a crypta, of which 
 the laver or basin is of one vast, intire, antiq porphyrie, and below this 
 flows a plentifull cascade ; the stepps of the grotto and the roofs being 
 of rich Mosaiq. Here are hydraulic organs, and a fish-pond in an 
 ample bath. From hence we went to taste some rare Greco, and so 
 home. 
 
 Being now pretty weary of continual walking, I kept within, for the 
 most part, till the 6th December, and during this time I entertain'd 
 one Sign" Alessandro, who gave me some lessons on the theorba. 
 
ROME. 1644-] 
 
 123 
 
 The next excursion was over the Tiber, which I crossed in a ferry - 
 boate, to see the Palazzo di Ghisi, standing in Transtevere, fairely 
 built, but famous onely for the painting a fresca on the volto of the 
 portico towards the garden ; the story is the Amours of Cupid and 
 Psyche, by the hand of the celebrated Raphael d'Urbin. Here you 
 always see Painters designing and copying after it, it being esteemed 
 one of the rarest pieces of y* art in the world, and with greate reason. 
 I must not omit that incomparable table of Galatea (as I remember), 
 so carefully preserved in the cupboard at one of the ends of this walke, 
 to protect it from y e aire, being a most lively painting. There are 
 likewise excellent things of Baldassare and others. 
 
 Thence we went to the noble house of the Duke of Bracciano, fairely 
 built, with a stately court and fountaine. — Next we walked to St. 
 Marv's Church, where was the Taberna Meritoria, where the old Ro- 
 man soldiers received their triumphal garland, which they ever after 
 wore. The high altar is very faire, adorn'd with columns of porphvrie; 
 here is also some mosaic worke about y e quire, and the Assumption is 
 an esteem'd piece. It is sayd that this Church was the first that was 
 dedicated to the Virgin at Rome. In the opposite Piazza is a very 
 sumptuous fountaine. 
 
 12. I went againe to St. Peter's, to see the Chapells, Churches, and 
 Grotts under the whole Church (like our St. Faith's under Paules,) in 
 which lie interr'd a multitude of Saints, Martyrs, and Popes ; amongst 
 them our countryman Hadrian IV. in a chest of porphyrie ; St. Jo: 
 Chrysostom ; Petronella ; the heads of St. James Minor, St. Luke, 
 St. Sebastian, and our Thomas a Becket ; a shoulder of St. Christo- 
 pher'; an arme of Joseph of Arimathea ; Longinus ; besides 134 more 
 Bishops, Souldiers, Princes, Scholars, Cardinals, Kings, Emperors, 
 their wives, too long to particularize. 
 
 Hence we walked into the Cemitery cal'd Campo Santo, the earth 
 consisting of several ship loads of mould transported from Jerusalem, 
 which consumes a carcasse in 24 houres. To this joynes that rare 
 Hospital, where once was Nero's Circus ; and next to this is the In- 
 quisition house and prison, the inside whereofF, I thanke God, I was 
 not curious to see. To this joins his Holinesse's Horse-guards. 
 
124 [ROME. 1644. 
 
 On ^hristmas Eve I went not to bed, being desirous of seeing the 
 many extraordinary ceremonies performed then in their Churches, as 
 midnight masses and sermons. I went from Church to Church the 
 whole night in admiration at the multitude of sceanes and pageantry 
 which the Friers had with much industry and craft set out, to catch the 
 devout women and superstitious sort of people, who never parted with- 
 out dropping some money into a vessell set on purpose ; but especialy 
 observable was the pupetry in the Church of the Minerva, representing 
 the Nativity. I thence went and heard a sermon at the Apollinare, by 
 which time it was morning. On Christmas Day his Holinesse saing 
 Masse, the artillerie at St. Angelo went off, and all this day was ex- 
 posal the cradle of our Lord. 
 
 29. We were invited by the English Jesuites to dinner, being their 
 greate feast of Thomas [a. Becker.] of Canterbury. We din'd in their 
 common Refectory, and afterward saw an Italian Comedy acted by 
 their alumni before the Cardinals. 
 
 1645. Jan. We saw passe the new officers of the people of Rome; 
 especialy for their noble habits were most conspicuous y c 3 Consuls, 
 now call'd Conservators, who take their places in the Capitol, having 
 been sworne the day before betwene the hands of the Pope. We ended 
 the day w ,h the rare musiq at the Chiesa Nova. 
 
 6 Jan. Was the eeremony of our Saviour's Baptisme in the Church 
 of St. Athanasius, and at Ara Celi was a greate procession, del Bam- 
 bino as they call it, where were all the Magistrates, and a wonderfull 
 concourse of people. 
 
 7- A Sermon was preach'd to the Jewes at Ponte Sisto, who are 
 constraint! to sit till the houre is don ; but it is with so much malice in 
 their countenances, spitting, hum'ing, coughing, and motion, that it 
 is almost impossible they should heare a word from the preacher. A 
 conversion is very rare. 
 
 14. The heads of St. Peter and St. Paul are exposed at St. J. La- 
 terano. 
 
 15. The Zitelle, or young wenches, which are to have portions 
 given them by the Pope, being poore, and to marry them, walked in 
 procession to St. Peter's, where the Veronica was shew'd. 
 
ROME. 1645.] 
 
 125 
 
 I went to the Ghetto, where the Jewes dwell as in a suburbe by 
 themselues; being invited by a Jew of my acquaintance to see a Cir- 
 cumcision. I passed by the Piazza Judea, where their Seraglio begins; 
 for, being inviron'd w th walls, they are loek'd up every night. In this 
 place remaines yet part of a stately fabric, which my Jew told me had 
 been a palace of theirs for the ambassador of their nation when their 
 country was subject to the Romans. Being lead through the Syna- 
 gogue into a privat house, I found a world of people in a chamber : by 
 and by came an old man, who prepared and layd in order divers instru- 
 ments brought by a little child of about 7 yeares old in a box. These 
 the man layd in a silver bason ; the knife was much like a short razor 
 to shut into y e haft. Then they burnt some incense in a censer, w ch 
 perfum'd the rome all the while the ceremony was performing. In the 
 basin was a little cap made of white paper like a capuchin's hood, 
 not bigger than the finger ; also a paper of a red astringent powder, 
 I suppose of bole ; a small instrument of silver, cleft in the middle at 
 one end to take up the prepuce withall ; a fine linen cloth wrapped up. 
 These being all in order, the women brought the infant, swaddl'd, out 
 of another chamber, and delivered it to the Rabbie, who carried and 
 presented it before an altar or cupbord dress'd up, on which lay the 5 
 Bookes of Moses, and the Commandments a little unrowled ; before 
 this, with profound reverence, and mumbling a few words, he waved 
 the child to and fro awhile ; then he deliver'd it to another Rabbie, 
 who sate all this time upon a table. Whilst the ceremony was per- 
 forming, all the company fell a singing an Hebrew hymn in a barbarous 
 tone, waving themselves to and fro, a ceremony they observe in all 
 their devotions. — The Jewes in Rome all wear yellow hatts, live onely 
 upon brokage and usury, very poore and despicable, beyond what they 
 are in other territories of Princes where they are permitted. 
 
 18 Jan. I went to see the Pope's Palace, the Vatican, where he for 
 the most part keeps his Court. It was first built by Pope Simachus? 
 and since augmented to a vast pile of building by his successors. That 
 part of it added by Sixtus V. is most magnificent. This lead us into 
 divers tarraces arched sub clio, painted by Raphael w th y e Historys ot 
 the Bible, so esteem'd, that artists come from all parts of Europe to 
 
126 
 
 [rome. 1645. 
 
 make their studies from these designes. The foliage and grotesq about 
 some of the compartments are admirable*. In another rome are repre- 
 sented at large mapps and plotts of most countries in the world, in vast 
 tables, with briefe descriptions. The stayres w ch ascend out of St. 
 Peter's portico into the first hall, are rarely contriv'd for ease ; these 
 leade into the hall of Gregory XIII. the walls whereof, halfe way to 
 the roofe, are incrusted w th most precious marbles of various colours 
 and workes. So is also the pavement inlaid worke ; but what ex- 
 ceeds description in y° volta or rooff itselfe, which is so exquisitely 
 painted, that 'tis almost impossible for the skilfullest eye to discerne 
 whether it be the worke of the pensil upon a flatt, or of a toole cutt 
 deepe in stone. The Rota dendata in this admirable perspective, on 
 the left hand as one goes out, the Stella, &c. are things of art incom- 
 parable. Certainly this is one of the most superb and royall apparte- 
 ments in the world, much too beautifull for a guard of gigantic Swissers, 
 who do nothing but drinke and play at cards in it. Going up these 
 stayres is a painting of St. Peter walking on the sea towards our Saviour. 
 
 Out of this I went into another hall, just before the chapell called 
 the Sala del Conclave, full of admirable paintings ; amongst other is 
 the Assassination of Colignij, the greate [Protestant] French Admiral, 
 murder'd by y e D. of Guise, in the Parisian massacre at the nuptials of 
 Hen. IV. with Queen Margarite ; under it is written, " Coligni et 
 sociorum csedes :" on the other side, " Rex Colig"i necem probat." 
 
 There is another very large picture, under which is inscribed, 
 
 <: Alexander Papa III. Fredrici Primi Imperatoris iram et impetum fugietis 
 abdidit seVenetijs; cognitum et a senatu perhonorifice susceptum, Othone 
 Imperatoris filio navali prselio victo captoq; Fredericus pace facta supplex 
 adorat ; fidem et obedientiam pollicitus. Ita Pontifici sua dignitas Venet. Rep. 
 beneficio restituta MCLXxvm."-j- 
 
 * Painted by John of Udine, scholar of Raphael, from the designs of Raphael. Painter's Voyage 
 of Italy, p. 17. 
 
 t Pope Alexander ill. flying from the wrath and attack of the Emperor Frederick I. took 
 shelter at Venice, where he was acknowledged and most honourably received by the Senate. The 
 Emperor's son Otho being conquered and taken in a naval battle, the Emperor, having made 
 peace, became a suppliant to the Pope, promising faith and obedience. Thus his dignity was 
 restored to the Pontiff by the aid of the Republic of Venice, mclxxviii. 
 
ROME. 164").] 127 
 
 This inscription I the rather took notice of, because Urban VIII. 
 had caused it to be blotted out during the difference betweene him and 
 that State ; but it was now restor'd and refresh'd by his successor, to 
 the greate honor of the Venetians. The Battaile of Lepanto is 
 another faire piece here. 
 
 Now we came into the Pope's Chapell, so much celebrated for the 
 hast Judgment, painted by M. Angelo Buonarotti. It is a painting in 
 fresca upon a dead wall at the upper end of the Chapell, just over y c 
 high altar, of a vast designe and miraculous fancy, considering the 
 multitude of naked figures and variety of posture. The roofe also is 
 full of rare worke. — Hence we went into the Sacristia, where we were 
 shew'd all the most precious vestments, copes, and furniture of y e 
 Chapell. One priestly cope, with the whole suite, had been sent from 
 one of our English Henrys, and is shewn for a greate rarity. There 
 were divers of the Pope's pantofles that are kissed on his foote, having 
 rich jewells embrodred on the instep, cover'd w th crimson velvet ; also 
 his tyara, or triple crown, divers miters, crosiers, &c. all bestudded with 
 precious stones, gold, and pearle, to a very great value ; a very large 
 crosse, carved (as they affirme) out of the holy wood it selfe ; numerous 
 utensils of chrystal, gold, achat, amber, and other costly materials for 
 the altar. 
 
 We then went into those chambers painted w th the Historys of the 
 burning of Rome, quenched by the procession of a Crucifix ; the Vic- 
 tory of Const antine over Maxentius ; St. Peter s delivery out of Prison; 
 all by Julio Romano *, and are therefore cal'd the Paynters' Academy 
 because you always find some young men or other designing from 
 them ; a civility w ch is not refused in Italy where any rare pieces of 
 the old and best masters are extant, and w ch is the occasion of breeding 
 up many excellent men in that profession. 
 
 The Sala Clementina's Suffito is painted by Cherubin Alberti, with 
 an ample landskip of Paul Brill's. 
 
 We were then conducted into a new Gallery, whose sides were 
 painted with views of the most famous places, towns, and territories in 
 
 * A famous scholar of Raphael. 
 
128 
 
 [rome. 1645- 
 
 Italy, rarely don, and upon the roofe the chiefe acts of the Roman 
 Church since St. Peter's pretended See there. It is doubtlesse one of 
 the most magnificent galleries in Europ. — Out of this we came into y e 
 Consistory, a noble roome, the volto painted in grotesq, as I remember. 
 At the upper end is an elevated throne, and a baldachino or canopy of 
 state, for his Holinesse, over it. 
 
 From thence, through a very long gallery (longer, I think, then the 
 French king's at the Louvre), but onely of bare walls, we were brought 
 into y e Vatican Library. This passage was now full of poore people, 
 to each of whom, in his passage to St. Peter's, the Pope gave a mezzo 
 grosse. I believe there were in number neer 1500 or 2000 persons. 
 
 This Library is the most nobly built, furnish'd, and beautified of any 
 in the world; ample, stately, light, and cherefull, looking into a most 
 pleasant garden. The walls and roofe are painted, not with antiques 
 and grotescs, like our Bodleian at Oxford, but emblems, figures, dia- 
 grams, and the like learned inventions, found out by the wit and in- 
 dustry of famous men, of which there are now whole volumes extant. 
 There were likewise the effigies of the most illustrious men of letters 
 and fathers of the Church, with divers noble statues in white marble 
 at the entrance, viz. Hippolitus and Aristides. The Generall Councils 
 are painted on the side walls. As to y e ranging of the bookes, they 
 are all shut up in presses of wainscot, and not expos'd on shelves to the 
 open ayre, nor are the most precious mix'd amongst the more ordinary, 
 which are shew'd to the curious onely; such as are those two Virgils 
 written in parchment, of more then a thousand yeares old ; the like a 
 Terence ; the Acts of y e Apostles in golden capital letters ; Petrarch's 
 Epigrams, written with his owne hand ; also an Hebrew parchment 
 made up in the ancient manner, from whence they were first call'd 
 Volumina, vv th y e Cornua ; but what we English do much enquire after, 
 the booke which our Hen. VIII. writ against Luther*. 
 
 * This very book, by one of those curious chances that occasionally happen, has recently been 
 brought to England, where the Editor has seen it ; and what is very remarkable, wherever the 
 title of Defender of the Faith is subjoined to the name of Henry, the Pope has drawn his pen 
 through the epithet. The name of the King occurs in his own hand-writing both at the beginning 
 and end ; and on the binding are the royal arms. The present possessor purchased it in Italy for 
 a few shillings from an old book-stall. 
 
ROME. 1645.] 
 
 12H 
 
 The largest roome is 100 paces long ; at the end is the gallery of 
 printed books ; then the gallery of the D. of Urbans librarie, in which 
 are MSS. of remarkable miniature, and divers China, Mexican, Sama- 
 ritan, Abyssin, and other Oriental books. 
 
 In another wing of the edifice, 200 paces long, were all the bookes 
 taken from Heidelburg, of which the learned Gruter and other greate 
 scholars had been keepers. These walls and volto are painted with 
 representations of the machines invented by Domenico Fontana for 
 erection of the obelisqs ; and the true designe of Mahomet's sepulchre 
 at Mecca. 
 
 Out of this we went to see the Conclave, where, during a vacancy, 
 the Cardinals are shut up till they are agreed upon a new election, the 
 whole manner whereof was describ'd to us. 
 
 Hence we went into the Pope's Armory under the Library. Over 
 the dore is this inscription : " Urbanus VIII. Litteris Arma, Arma 
 Litteris." I hardly believe any Prince in Europ is able to shew a more 
 compleately furnish'd Library of Mars for the quality and quantity, 
 w ch is 40,000 compleate for horse and foote, and most neately kept. 
 Out of this we pass'd againe by the long Gallery and at the lower end of 
 it downe a very large payr of stayres, round, without any stepps as usualy, 
 but descending with an evenesse so ample and easy that a horse-litter or 
 coach may w th ease be drawne up ; the sides of the vacuity are set w th 
 columns : those at Amboise on the Loire in France are something of 
 this invention but nothing so spruce. By these we descended into the 
 Vatican Gardens cal'd Belvedere, where entring first into a kind of 
 Court we were shew'd those incomparable statues (so fam'd by Pliny 
 and others) of Laocoon with his three sonns embrac'd by an huge ser- 
 pent, all of one entire Parian stone very white and perfect, somewhat 
 bigger than the life, the worke of those three celebrated sculptors 
 Agesandrus, Polidorus, and Artemidorus, Rhodians ; it was found 
 amongst the ruines of Titus's Baths, and placed here. Pliny says this 
 statue is to be esteem'd before all pictures and statues in the world ; and 
 I am of his opinion, for I never beheld any thing of art approch it. 
 Here are also those two famous images of Nylus with the Children 
 playing about him, and that of Tyber ; Romulus and Rhemus with the 
 
 vol. 1. « s 
 
130 
 
 [home. 
 
 Wolfe ; the dying Cleopatra ; the Venus and Cupid, rare pieces ; the 
 Mercury ; Cybel ; Hercules ; Apollo ; Antinous : most of which are, for 
 defence against the weather, shut up in niches with wainscot dores. We 
 were likewise shew'd the reliques of the Hadrian Moles, viz. the Pine, a 
 vast piece of mettall which stood on the summit of that mausoleum ; also 
 a Peacock of coper supposed to have been part of Scipio's monument. 
 
 In the Garden without this (w ch containes a vast circuit of ground) 
 are many stately fountaines, especialy two casting water into antiq 
 lavors brought from Titus's Bathes ; some faire grotts and water 
 works, that noble cascade where the ship daunces, with divers other 
 pleasant inventions, walkes, terraces, meanders, fruite-trees, and a 
 most goodly prospect over the greatest part of the Citty. One fountaine 
 under the gate I must not omitt, consisting of three jettos of water 
 gushing out of the mouthes or proboscis of bees (the armes of the late 
 Pope), because of the inscription : 
 
 Quid miraris Apem, quae mel de floribus haurit ? 
 Si tibi mellitam gutture fundit aquam. 
 
 23. We went without the walls of y e Citty to visite St. Paules, to 
 which place 'tis savd the Apostle bore his owne head after Nero had 
 caus'd it to be cut off. The Church was founded by the Greate Con- 
 stantine ; the maine roofe is supported by J 00 vast columns of marble, 
 and the Mosaiq worke of the greate arch is wrought with a very ancient 
 story A 0 440 ; as is likewise that of the faciata. The gates are brasse 
 made at Constantinople in 10/0, as you may reade by those Greeke 
 verses engraven on them. The Church is neere 500 foote long and 258 
 in breadth, and has 5 great iles joyn'd to it, on the bases of one of whose 
 columns is this odd title: " FI. Eugenius Asellus C. C. Praef. Urbis V.S.I, 
 reparavit." Here they shew'd us that miraculous Crucifix w ch they say 
 spake to St. Brigit : and just before the Ciborio stand two excellent sta- 
 tues. Here are buried part of the bodys of St. Paule and St. Peter. 
 The pavement is richly interwoven w th precious oriental marbles 
 about the high altar, where are also 4 excellent payntings whereof 
 one, representing the stoning of St. Stephen, is by the hand of a JBo- 
 lognian lady named Lavinia. The tabernacle on this altar is of excel- 
 lent architecture, and the pictures in the Chapel del Sacramento are of 
 
ROME. 1^45] 
 
 131 
 
 Lanfranchi. Diuers other reliques there he also in this venerahle 
 Church, as a part of St. Anna ; the head of the Woman of Samaria ; 
 the chayne w ch bound St. Paule, and the Eculeus us'd in tormenting 
 the primitive Christians. The Church stands in the Via Ostensis 
 about a mile from the walls of the Citty, separated from any buildings 
 neere it except the Tria Fontana, to which (leaving our coach) we 
 walked, going over the mountaine or little rising upon w ch story says 
 an hundred seaventy and 4 thousand Christians had been martyr'd by 
 Maximianus, Dioclesian, and other blody Tyrants. On this stand 
 St. Vincent's and Anastasius ; likewise the Church of St. Maria Scala 
 del Cielo, in whose Tribuna is a very faire Mosaiq worke. The Church 
 of the Tre Fontane (as they are call'd) is perfectly well built tho' but 
 small (whereas that of St. Paule is but Gotiq) having a noble cupola 
 in the middle ; in this they shew the pillar to which St. Paule was 
 bound when his head was cut off and from whence it made three pro- 
 digious leaps, where there im'ediately broke out the 3 remaining foun- 
 taines which gave denomination to this Church. The waters are reported 
 to be medicinal ; over each is erected an altar and a chayned ladle for 
 better tasting of the waters. That most excellent picture of St. Peter's 
 crucifixion is of Guido. 
 
 25. I went againe to the Palazzo Farnese, to see some certaine sta- 
 tues and antiquities w ch by reason of the Major Domo not being within 
 I could not formerly obtaine. In the hall stands that triumphant Colosse 
 of one of the family, upon 3 figures, a modern, but rare piece. About it 
 stood some Gladiators; and at the entrance into one of the first chambers 
 are two cumbent figures of Age and Youth brought hither from St. Pe- 
 ter's to make roome for the Longinus under the cupola. Here was the 
 statue of a ram running at a man on horseback, a most incomparable ex- 
 pression of Fury cut in stone; and a table of Pietra Com'esse very curious. 
 The next chamber was all painted afresca by a rare hand, as was the 
 carving in wood of the cieling w ch as I remember was in cedar as the 
 Italian mode is, and not poore plaster as ours are ; some of them most 
 richly gilt. In a third rome stood the famous Venus, and the child 
 Hercules strangling a serpent of Corinthian brass antiq, on a very cu- 
 rious bass-relievo; the sacrifice to Priapus; the Egyptian Isis in the hard 
 
132 
 
 [rome. 1645. 
 
 Mack ophit stone taken out of the Pantheon, greately celebrated by the 
 Antiquaries ; likewise two tables of brasse containing divers old Roman 
 laws. At another side of this chamber was the statue of a wounded 
 Amazon falling from her horse, worthy the name of the excellent 
 sculptor, whoever the artist was. Neere this was a bass relievo of a 
 Bacchanalia w th a most curious Silenus. The 4th room was totally in- 
 viron'd with statues ; especialy observable was that so renowned piece 
 of a Venus looking backward over her shoulder, and divers other naked 
 figures by the old Greeke masters. Over the doores are two Venus' s, 
 one of them looking on her face in a glasse by M. Angelo, the other 
 is painted by Caracci. I never saw finer faces, especialy that under the 
 masque whose beauty and art are not to be describ'd by words. The 
 next chamber is also full of statues most of them y e heads of Philoso- 
 phers, very antiq. One of the Caesars and another of Hannibal cost 
 1200 crownes. Now I had a second view of that never to be sufficiently 
 admired gallery painted in deepe relievo, the worke of 10 yeares study 
 for a trifling reward. In the wardrobe above they shew'd us fine 
 wrought plate, porcelan, mazers of beaten and solid gold set with dia- 
 monds, rubies, and emeralds ; a treasure, especialy the workmanship 
 consider'd, of inestimable value. This is all the Duke of Parma's. 
 Nothing seem'd to be more curious and rare in its kind than the com- 
 pleate service of the purest chrystal for y e altar of the Chapell, the 
 very bell, cover of a book, sprinkler, &c. were all of the rock, incom- 
 parably sculptur'd with the holy story in deepe jLevati ; thus was also 
 wrought the crucifix, chalice, vasas, flower-pots, the largest and purest 
 chrystall that my eyes ever beheld. Truely I looked on this as one of 
 ths greatest curiosities I had seene in Rome. In another part were 
 presses furnish'd with antiq armes, German clocks, perpetual motions, 
 watches, and curiosities of Indian workes. A very ancient picture of 
 Pope Eugenius ; a St. Bernard, and a head of marble found long since, 
 supposed to be a true portrait of our B. Saviour's face. 
 
 Hence we went to see Dr. Gibbs, a famous poet and countryman of 
 ours, who had some intendency in an Hospital built on the Via Tri- 
 umphalis, called Christ's Hospital, w cb he shew'd us. The Infirmitory 
 where the sick lay was paved with various colour'd marbles, and the 
 
ROME. 16'45-] 
 
 J 33 
 
 walls hung w th noble pieces ; the beds are very faire ; in the middle is 
 a stately cupola, under w ch is an altar decked w th divers marble statues, 
 all in sight of the sick, who may both see and heare masse as they lye 
 in their beds. The organs are very line, and frequently play'd on to 
 recreate the people in paine. To this joyns an apartiment destined for 
 y e orphans ; and there is a schoole ; the children weare blew like ours 
 in London at an Hospital of the same appellation. Here are 40 nurses 
 who give suck to such children as are accidentaly found expos'd and 
 abandon'd. In another quarter are children of bigger growth, 450 in 
 number, who are taught letters. In another, 500 girles under the tuition 
 of divers religious matrons, in a Monastry, as it were, by itselfe. 1 
 was assur'd there were at least 2000 more maintain'd in other places. 1 
 think one appartiment had in it neere 1000 beds ; these are in a very 
 long rome having an inner passage for those who attend, with as much 
 care, sweetenesse, and conveniency as can be imagin'dj^the Italians 
 being generaly very neate. Under the portico the sick may walke 
 out and take y° ayre. Opposite to this are other chambers for such as 
 are sick of maladies of a more rare and difficult cure, and they have 
 romes apart. At y e end of the long corridore is an apothecary's shop, 
 fair and very well stor'd ; neere which are chambers for persons of 
 better quality who are yet necessitous. Whatever y e poore bring is at 
 their coming in deliver'd to a treasurer, who makes an inventory and 
 is accoumptable to them or their representatives if they dye. To this 
 building joynes the house of the com'endator, who w th his officers at- 
 tending the sick make up 90 persons ; besides a convent and an ample 
 church for the friers and priests who daily attend. The church is ex- 
 treamely neate, and the sacristia very rich. Indeede 'tis altogether one 
 of the most pious and worthy foundations I ever saw : nor is the benefit 
 small w ch diuers young physitians and chirurgeons reape by the expe- 
 rience they learne here amongst the sick, to whom those students have 
 free accesse. Hence we ascended a very steepe hill neere y e Port St. 
 Pancratio to y* stately fountaine call'd Acqua Paula, being the aquae- 
 duct w ch Augustus had brought to Rome, now re-edified by Paulus V.; 
 a rare piece of architecture, and which serves the City after a journey 
 of 35 miles, here pouring itselfe into divers ample lavors, out of y e 
 
134 
 
 [ITALY. 1C>45. 
 
 mouthes of swans and dragons, the armes of this Pope. Situate on a 
 very high mount, it makes a most glorious shew to y e Citty, especialy 
 when the sun darts on y e waters as it gusheth out. The inscriptions on 
 it are : 
 
 Paulus V. Romanus Pontifex Opt. Max. Aquaeductus ab Augusto Ca^sare 
 extructos, aevi longinqua vetustate eollapsos, in ampliorem formam restituit 
 anno salutis M.D. CIX. Pont. V. 
 
 And towards the feilds, 
 
 Paulus V. Rom. Pontifex Optimus Maximus, priori ductu longissimi tem- 
 
 poris injuria pene diruto, sublimiorem 
 
 [One or more leaves are here wanting in Mr. Evelyn's MS. descriptive of 
 other parts of Rome, and of his leaving the City.] 
 
 Thence to Veletri, a towne heretofore of the Volsci, where is a 
 publiq and faire statue of P. Urban VIII. in brasse, and a stately foun- 
 taine in the streete. Here we lay, and drank excellent wine. 
 
 Jan: 28. We dined at Sermoneta, descending all this morning downe 
 a stony mountaine, unpleasant, yet full of olive-trees ; and anon passe 
 a towre built on a rock, kept by a small guard against y e Banditti who 
 infest these parts, daily robbing and killing passengers, as my Lord Ban- 
 bury and his company found to their cost a little before. To this guard 
 we gave some mony, and so were suffer'd to passe, w ch was still on y e 
 Appian to the Tres Tabernae (whither the breathren came from Rome 
 to meete St. Paule, Acts, c. 28) ; the ruines whereof are yet very faire, 
 resembling the remainder of some considerable edifice, as may be 
 judged by the vast stones and fairenesse of y e arched worke. The 
 country invironing this passage is hilly, but rich ; on the right hand 
 stretches an ample playne, being the Pomptini Campi. We repos'd 
 this night at Piperno, in the Post-house without the towne ; and here 
 I was extreamely troubled with a sore hand from a mischance at Rome, 
 w ch now began to fester, upon my base, unlucky, stifF-necked, trotting, 
 carrion mule, which are in the world the most wretched beasts. In 
 this towne was y e Poet Virgil's Camilla borne. 
 
 The day following we were faine to hire a strong convey of about 30 
 firelocks to guard us through the Cork-woods (much infested w th y e 
 Banditti) as far as Nova Fossa, where was y e Appii Forum, and now 
 stands a Church with a greate Monastry, the place where Thomas 
 
ITALY. Jfi-ij.] 
 
 135 
 
 Aquinas both studied and lyes buried. Here we all alighted, and were 
 most courteously received by the Monks, who shew'd us many reliques 
 of their learned Saint, and at the high altar the print forsooth of the 
 mule's hoofe w cb he caused to kneele before the Host. The Church is 
 old, built after the Gotiq manner; but the place is very agreeably me- 
 lancholy. After this, pursuing the same noble [Appian] way (w ch we 
 had before left a little) we found it to stretch from Capua to Rome 
 itselfe, and afterwards as far as Brundusium. It was built by that 
 famous Consul, 25 foote broad, every 12 foote something ascending for 
 the ease and firmer footing of horse and man ; both the sides are also 
 a little rais'd for those who travell on foote. The whole is paved with 
 a kind of beach-stone, and, as I sayd, ever and anon adorn'd with some 
 old ruine, sepulcher, or broken statue. In one of these monuments 
 Pancirollus tells us that in the time of Paul III. there was found the 
 body of a young lady swimming in a kind of bath of precious oyle or 
 liquor, fresh and entire as if she had been living, neither her face disco - 
 lour'd, nor her haire disorder'd ; at her feete burnt a lamp which sud- 
 dainely expir'd at y e opening of the vault ; having flam'd, as was com- 
 puted, now 1500 yeares, by the conjecture that she was Tulliola the 
 daughter of Cicero whose body was thus found, and as the inscription 
 testified. We din'd this day at Terracina, heretofore y e famous Anxur, 
 w ch stands upon a very eminent promontory, the Cercean by name. 
 Whilst meate was preparing I went up into y e town, and view'd the 
 fayre remainders of Jupiter's Temple, now converted into a Church, 
 adorn'd with most stately columns ; its architecture has been excellent, 
 as may be dedue'd from the goodly cornices, mouldings, and huge 
 white marbles of which 'tis built. Before the portico stands a pillar 
 thus inscrib'd : 
 
 Inclyta Gothorum Regis monumenta vetusta 
 Anxuri hoc Oculos exposuere loco. 
 
 for it seemes Theodoric drayn'd their marches. 
 On another more ancient: 
 
 Imp. Caesar Divi Nervae Filius Nerva Trajanus Aug. Germanicus Dacicus. 
 Pontif. Max. Trib. Pop. xvm. Imp. vi. Cos. v. p.p. xviii. Silices sua pecunia 
 stravit. 
 
136 [ITALY. 1645- 
 
 Meaning doubtlesse some part of the Via Appia. Then, 
 
 Tit. Upio. Aug. optato Pontano Procuratori et Prgefect. Classis — Ti. Ju- 
 lius T. Fab. optatus 11 vir. 
 
 Here is likewise a Columna Miliaria with something engraven on it, 
 but I could not stay to consider it. Coming down againe I went to- 
 wards the sea side to contemplate that stupendious strange rock and 
 promontory, cleft by hand, I suppose, for the better passage. Within 
 this is the Cercean Cave, which I went into a good way ; it makes a 
 dreadfull noyse by reason of the roaring and impetuous waves continualy 
 assaulting the beach, and that in an unusual manner. At the top at an 
 excessive height stands an old and very greate castle. We ariv'd this 
 night at Fundi, a most dangerous passage for robbing; and so we pass'd 
 by Galba's Villa, aud anon entred the kingdome of Naples, where 
 at the gate this epigraph saluted us : " Hospes hie sunt fines Regni 
 Neopolitani ; si amicus advenis, pacate omnia invenies, et malis moribus 
 pulsis, bonas leges." The Via Appia is here a noble prospect ; having 
 before consider'd how it was carried through vast mountaines of rocks 
 for many miles, by most stupendious labour : bere it is infinitely 
 pleasant, beset w th sepulchres and antiquities, full of sweete shrubbs 
 in the invironing hedges. At Fundi we had oranges and citrons for 
 nothing, the trees growing in every corner, charged with fruite. 
 
 29. We descried M ount Csecubus, famous for the generous wine it 
 heretofore produe'd, and so rid onward the Appian Way, beset with 
 myrtils, lentiscus, bayes, pomegranads, and whole groves of orange- 
 trees and most delicious shrubbs, till we came to Formiana, where they 
 shew'd us Cicero's Tomb standing in an olive grove, now a rude heap 
 of stones, without forme or beauty; for here that incomparable Orator 
 was murther'd. I shall never forget how exceedingly I was delighted 
 with the sweetenesse of this passage, the sepulcher mixed amongst all 
 sorts of verdure ; besides being now come within sight of the noble 
 Citty Cajeta, w ch gives a surprizing prospect along the Tyrrhen Sea 
 in manner of a Theater : and here we beheld that strangely cleft rock, 
 a frightfull spectacle, w ch they say happen'd upon the passion of our 
 Bl. Saviour; but the hast of o r Procaccio did not suffer us to dwell so 
 long on these objects, and the many antiquities of this towne, as we 
 desired. 
 
NAPLES. 1645.] 
 
 137 
 
 At Formia we saw Cicero's grott, dining at Mola, and passing Se* 
 nuessa, Garigliano (once the Citty Min tenia), and beheld the ruines of 
 that vast amphitheatre and aquae-duct yet standing ; the river Liris, w ch 
 bounded the old Latium, Falernus, or Mons Massicus, celebrated for 
 its wine, now named Garo ; and this night we lodged at a little village 
 called Agatha, in the Falernian Feilds neere to Aurunca and Sessa. 
 
 The next day, having passed [the river]] Vulturnus, we come by the 
 Torri di Francolesse, where Hannibal in danger from Fabius Maximus 
 escaped by debauching his enemyes ; and so at last we enter'd the most 
 pleasant plaines of Campania, now call'd Terra di Lavoro ; in verv truth, 
 I thinke, the most fertile spot that ever the sun shone upon. Here we saw 
 the slender ruines of the once mighty Capua, contending at once both 
 with Rome and Carthage, for splendor and empire, now nothing but a 
 heape of rubbish, except shewing some vestige of its former magnificence 
 in pieces of temples, arches, theaters, columns, ports, vaults, colossas, 
 &c. confounded together by the barbarous Goths and Longobards ; 
 there is however a new Citty, neerer to y e road by two miles, fairelv 
 ravs'd out of these heapes. The passage from this towne to Naples 
 (w ch is about 10 or 12 English post miles,) is as straight as a line, of 
 great breadth, fuller of travellers than I remember any of our greatest 
 and most frequented roads neere London ; but what is extreamely 
 pleasing, is the great fertility of the feilds, planted with fruit-trees, 
 whose boles are serpented with excellent vines, and they so exuberant 
 that 'tis commonly reported one vine will loade 5 mules with its grapes. 
 What adds much to the pleasure of the sight is that the vines, climbing 
 to the summit of the trees, reach in festoons and fruitages from one tree 
 to another, planted at exact distances, forming a more delightful pic- 
 ture than painting can describe. Here grow rice, canes for suggar, 
 olives, pomegranads, mulberrys, cittrons, oranges, figgs, and other 
 sorts of rare fruits. About the middle of the way is the towne Aversa, 
 whither came 3 or 4 coaches to meete our lady-travellers, of whom we 
 now tooke leave, having ben verv merry by the way with them and the 
 capirano their gallant. 
 
 31 Jan. About noone we enter'd the Citty of Naples, alighting at 
 the 3 Kings, where we found the most plentifull fare all the tyme we 
 
 VOL. I. T 
 
138 
 
 [NAPLES. lf?45. 
 
 were in Naples. Provisions are wonderfully cheape ; we seldom sat 
 downe to fewer than 18 or 20 dishes of exquisite meate and fruites. 
 
 The morrow after o r arival, in the afternoone, we hired a coach to 
 carry us about the towne. First we went to the Castle of St. Elmo, 
 built on a very high rock, whence we had an intire prospect of y e whole 
 Citty, which lyes in shape of a theatre upon the sea brinke, with all 
 the circumjacent islands, as far as Caprese, famous for the debauched 
 recesses of Tiberius. This Fort is the bridle of the whole Citty, and 
 was well stor'd and garrison'd with native Spanyards. The strangenesse 
 of the precipice and rarenesse of the prospect of so many magnificent 
 and stately Palaces, Churches, and Monasteries, w tb the Arsenall, the 
 Mole, and Mount Vesuvius in the distance, all in full com'and of y e 
 eye, make it one of the richest landskips in the world. 
 
 Hence we descended to another strong Castle, cal'd II Castello 
 Nuovo, which protects the shore, but they would by no intreaty per- 
 mit us to go in ; the outward defence seemes to consist but in 4 tovvrs, 
 very high, and an exceeding deepe graft with thick walls. Opposite 
 to this is the Toure of St. Vincent, w ch is also very strong. 
 
 Then we went to the very noble Palace of the Viceroy, partly old 
 and part of a newer work, but we did not stay long here. Towards y e 
 evening we tooke the ayre upon the Mole, which is a streete on the 
 rampart or banke rays'd in y e Sea for security of their gallys in port, 
 built as that of Genoa. Here I observed a rich fountaine in the middle 
 of the Piazza, and adorn'd with divers rare statues of copper repre- 
 senting the Sirens or Deities of the Parthenope, spouting large streames 
 of water into an ample shell, all of cast metall, and of great cost ; this 
 stands at the entrance of y c Mole, where wee mett many of the Nobility 
 both on horseback and in their coaches to take the Jresco from the Sea, 
 as the manner is, it being in the most advantageous quarter for good 
 ayre, delight, and prospect. Here we saw divers goodly horses who 
 handsomly become their riders, the Neapolitan gentlemen. This Mole 
 is about 500 paces in length, and paved with a square hewn stone. 
 From the Mole we ascend to a Church, of greate antiquity, formerly 
 sacred to Castor and Pollux, as the Greeke letters carv'd on the archi- 
 trave and the busts of their two statues testify. It is now converted 
 into a stately Oratory by the Theatines. 
 
 1 
 
NAPLES. 1645.] 
 
 139 
 
 The Cathedrall is a most magnificent pile, and, except St. Peter s 
 in Rome, Naples exceeds all Cittys for stately Churches and Monas- 
 teries. We were told that this day the blood of St. Genuarius and his 
 head should be expos'd, and so we found it, but obtain'd not to see the 
 miracle of the boiling of this blood, as was told us. The next we went 
 to see was St. Peter's, richly adorned, the Chapel especialy, where that 
 Apostle sayd masse, as is testified on the walle. 
 
 After dinner we went to St. Dominic, where they shew'd us the 
 Crucifix that is reported to have sayd these words to St. Thomas, " Bene 
 de me scripsisti Thoma." Hence to the Padri Olivetani, famous for 
 the monument of the learned Alexand. ab Alexandre 
 
 We went the next day to visitc the Church of L ta Maria Maggiore, 
 where we spent much time in surveying the Chapell of Job. Jov. Pon- 
 tanus, and in it the severall and excellent sentences and epitaphs on 
 himselfe, wife, children, and friends, full of rare witt and worthy of 
 recording as we find them in severall writers. In the same Chapell is 
 shew'd an arme of Titus Livius w th this epigraph ; " Titi Livij brachium 
 quod Anton. Panormita a Patavinis impetravit, Jo. Jovianus Pontanue 
 multos post annos hoc in loco ponendum curavit." 
 
 Climbing a steepe hill we came to the Monastery and Church of the 
 Carthusians, from whence is a most goodly prospect towards the Sea 
 and Citty, the one full of gallys and ships, the other of stately palaces, 
 churches, monasteries, castles, gardens, delicious fields and meadows, 
 Mount Vesuvius smoaking, the Promontory of Minerva and Misenum, 
 Capreae, Prochyta, Ischia, Pausilipe, Puteoli, and the rest, doubtldsse 
 one of the most divertisant and considerable vistas in y e world. The 
 Church is most elegantly built ; the very pavements of the common 
 cloyster being all layd w th variously polish'd marbles richly figur'd. 
 They shew'd us a massie crosse of silver much celebrated for the work- 
 manship and carving, and sayd to have been 14 yeares in perfecting. 
 The Quire also is of rare arte ; but above all to be admir'd is the yet 
 unfinish'd Church of the Jesuites, certainly if accomplished not to be 
 equal'd in Europe. Hence we pass'd by the Palazzo Caraffi, full of 
 ancient and very noble statues : also the Palace of the Ursini. The 
 next day we did little but visite some friends, English merchants resi- 
 
140 [NAPLES. 1645. 
 
 dent for their negotiation ; onely this morning at the Viceroy's Cava- 
 lerizzo I saw the noblest horses that 1 had ever beheld, one of his sonns 
 riding the menage with that addresse and dexterity as I had never seene 
 any thing approch it. 
 
 4 Feb. We were invited to the collection of exotic rarities in the 
 Museum of Ferdinando Imperati, a Neapolitan nobleman, and one ot 
 the most observable palaces in the Citty, the repository of incom- 
 parable rarities. Amongst the naturall Herbals most remarkable was 
 the Byssus marina and Pinna marina; the male and female Came- 
 lion ; an Onacratulus ; an extraordinary greate Crocodile ; some ot the 
 Orcades Anates, held here for a great rarity ; likewise a Salamander ; 
 the male and female Manucodiata, the male having an hollow in the 
 back, in \v ch 'tis reported the female both laves and hatches her eggs ; 
 the Mandragoras of both sexes ; Papyrus made of severall reedes, and 
 some of silke ; tables of the rinds of trees written w tb Japoniq charac- 
 ters ; another of the branches of palme; many Indian fruites ; a 
 chrystal that had a quantity of uncongealed water within its cavity ; a 
 petrified fisher's net ; divers sort of Tarantulas, being a monstrous 
 spider with lark-like clawes, and somewhat bigger. 
 
 5 Feb. The next day we beheld the Vice-king's procession, w ch was 
 very splendid for the reliques, banners, and musiq, which accompanied 
 the B. Sacrament. The ceremony tooke up most of the morning. 
 
 6 Feb. We went by coach to take the ayre, and see y e diversions 
 or rather maddnesse of the Carnival ; the courtisans (who swarme in 
 this Citty to the number, as we are told, of 30,000, registred and pay- 
 ing a tax to y e State) flinging eggs of sweete water into our coach as 
 we passed by the houses and windows. Indeed the towne is so pester'd 
 with these cattell, that their needes no small mortification to preserve 
 from their enchantment, whilst they display all their naturall and ar- 
 tificiall beauty, play, sing, feigne compliment, and by a thousand 
 studied devices seeke to inveigle foolish young men. 
 
 7. The next day being Saturday we went 4 miles out of towne on 
 mules to see that famous Volcano Mount Vesuvius. Here we passe a 
 faire fountaine cal'd Labulla, w ch continually boyles, suppos'd to pro- 
 ceed from Vesuvius, and thence over a river and bridg, where on a 
 
Vesuvius. 1O45.] 141 
 
 large upright stone is engraven a notable inscription relative to the 
 memorable eruption in 1630*. 
 
 Approching the hill as we were able with our mules, we alighted, 
 crawling up the rest of the proclivity with great difficulty, now w th our 
 feete, now with our hands, not without many untoward slipps which did 
 much bruise us on the various colour'd cinders w th which the whole 
 mountaine is cover'd, some like pitch, others full of perfect brimstone, 
 others metaliq, interspers'd with innumerable pumices (of all w th I 
 made a collection), we at the last gain'd the sum'it of an excessive 
 altitude ; turning o r faces towards Naples, it presents one of the good- 
 liest prospects in the world ; all the Baise, Cuma, Elyssian Fields, Ca- 
 prese, Ischia, Prochita, Misenus, Puteoli, that goodly Citty, with 
 a great portion of the Tyrrhan Sea, offering themselves to your view 
 at once, and at so agreeable a distance, as nothing can be more de- 
 lightfull. The mountaine consists of a double top, the one pointed 
 very sharp, and com'onlv appearing above any clouds, the other blunt. 
 Here as we approch'd we met many large gaping clefts and chasms y 
 out of which issued such sulphureous blasts and smoke that we durst 
 not stand long neere them. Having gain'd the very summit, I layd 
 myself downe to looke over and into that most frightful 1 and terrible 
 vorago, a stupendious pit of neere three miles in circuit and halfe a mile 
 in depth, by a perpendicular hollow cliffe (like that from the highest 
 part of Dover Castle), with now and then a craggy prominency 
 jetting out. The area at the bottom is plaine like an even'd floore, 
 which seemes to be made by the winds circling the ashes by its eddy 
 blasts. In the middle and center is a hill shaped like a greate browne 
 loafe, appearing to consist of sulphurous matter, continualy vomiting 
 a foggy exhalation, and ejecting huge stones with an impetuous noise 
 and roaring like the report of many musquets discharging. This horrid 
 Barathrum engaged our attention for some houres, both for the strang- 
 nesse of the spectacle and y e mention which the old histories make of 
 it, as one of the most stupendious curiosities in nature, and which made 
 the learned and inquisitive Pliny adventure his life to detect the causes, 
 
 * It may be seen at length in Wright's Travels, and in Misson's New Voyage to Italy, vol. I. p. -131 
 
142 
 
 [VESUVIUS. 1645. 
 
 and to loose it in too desperate an approch. It is likewise famous for 
 the stratagem of the rebell Spartacus, who did so much mischiefe to 
 the State, lurking amongst and protected by these horrid caverns, when 
 it was more accessible and lesse dangerous than now it is ; but espe- 
 cialy notorious it is for the last conflagration, when, in an° 1630, it 
 burst out beyond what it had ever don in the memory of history, 
 throwing out huge stones and fiery pumices in such quantity as not 
 onely inviron'd the whole mountaine, but totaly buried and overwhelm'd 
 divers tovvnes and their inhabitants, scattering the ashes more than an 
 hundred miles, and utterly devastating all those vineyards where for- 
 merly grew the most incomparable Greco ; when bursting thro' the 
 bowels of the earth it absorb'd the very Sea, and with its whirling 
 waters drew in divers gallyes and other vessels to their destruction, as 
 is faithfully recorded. We descended with more ease than we climb'd 
 up, thro' a deepe vallie of pure ashes, w' h at the late eruption was a 
 flowing river of mealted and burning brimstone, and so came to our 
 mules at the foote of the mountaine. 
 
 On Sunday we with our guide visited the so much celebrated Baise 
 and natural rarities of the places adjacent. Here we enter the moun- 
 taine Pausilipo, at the left hand of which they shew'd us Virgil's 
 sepulchre erected on a steepe rock, in forme of a small rotunda or 
 cupolated columne, but almost overgrowne with bushes and wild baye 
 trees. At the entrance is this inscription : 
 
 Stanisi Cencovius. 
 1589. 
 
 Quicineres? Tumuli haec vestigia, conditur olim 
 Ille hoc qui cecinit Pascua, Rura, Duces. 
 Can Ree MDLIII.* 
 
 After we were advanc'd into this noble and altogether wonderfull 
 crypt, consisting of a passage spacious enough for two coaches to go 
 
 * Such is the inscription, as copied by Mr. Evelyn ; but as its sense is not very clear, and as the 
 Diary contains instances of incorrectness in transcribing, the Editor has thought it desirable to 
 subjoin the distich said by Keysler in his Travels, vol. II. p. 433, to be the only one in the whole 
 mausoleum : 
 
 " Qua? cineris tumulo haec vestigia ? conditur olim 
 Ille hoc qui cecinit, pascua, rura, duces." 
 
NAPLES. 1645.] 
 
 143 
 
 on breast, cut thro' a rocky mountaine neere three quarters of a mile, (by 
 the ancient Cimmerii as reported, but as others say by L. Cocceius, 
 who employ 'd an hundred thousand men on it,) we came to the mid- 
 way, where there is a well bor'd through the diameter of this vast moun- 
 taine, which admitts the light into a pretty chapel, hewn out of the natu- 
 ral rock, wherein hang divers lamps perpetualy burning. The way is 
 pav'd under foote, but it does not hinder the dust, which rises so exces- 
 sively in this much frequented passage that we were forc'd at mid-day 
 to use a torch. At length we were deliver'd from the bowels of the 
 earth into one of the most delicious plaines in the world : the oranges, 
 lemons, pomegranads, and other fruites, blushing yet on the perpe- 
 tualy greene trees; for the summer is here eternal, caus'd by the natu- 
 ral and adventitious heate of the earth, warm'd through the subterranean 
 fires, as was shewn us by our guide, who alighted, and cutting up a 
 turf w th his knife, and delivering it to me, was so hot J was hardly able 
 to hold in in my hands. This mountaine is exceedingly fruitfull in 
 vines, and exotics grow readily. We now came to a lake of about two 
 miles in circumference, inviron'd with hills ; the water of it is fresh 
 and swete on the surface but salt at botome, some mineral salt con- 
 jectured to be the cause, and 'tis reported of that profunditude in the 
 middle that it is botomelesse. The people call it Lago di Agnano 
 from the multitude of serpents which involved together about the 
 spring fall downe from the cliffy hills into it. It has no fish, nor 
 will any live in it. We tried the old experiment on a dog in the 
 Grotto del Cane, or Charon's Cave ; it is not above three or four 
 paces deepe, and about the height of a man, nor very broad. What- 
 ever having life enters it presently expires. Of this we made tryal 
 with two doggs, one of which we bound to a short pole to guide him 
 the more directly into the further part of the den, where he was 
 no sooner enter'd, but without the least noyse, or so much as a 
 struggle, except that he panted for breath, lolling out his tongue, 
 his eyes being fix'd ; we drew him out dead to all appearance, but 
 immediately plunging him into y e adjoyning lake, within lesse than 
 halfe an houre he recover'd, and swimming to shore ran away from 
 us. We tried the same on another dogg without the application of the 
 
144 [NAPLES. 1645. 
 
 water, and left him quite dead. The experiment has been made on 
 men, as on that poore creature whom Peter of Toledo caus'd to go in ; 
 likewise on some Turkish slaves ; two souldiers, and other foole- hardy 
 persons, who ali perish'd, and could never be recover'd by the water of 
 the lake as are doggs, for which many learned reasons have ben offer'd, 
 as Simon Majolus in his booke of the Canicular-dayes has mention'd, 
 colloq. ]5. And certainely the most likely is, the effect of those hot and 
 dry vapours which ascend out of the earth and are condensed by the 
 ambient cold, as appeares by their converting into chrystaline drops on 
 y c top, whilst at the botome 'tis so excessively hott that a torch being 
 extinguished neere it, and lifted a little distance, was suddainely re- 
 lighted. Neere to this cave are the natural stoves of St. Germain, of 
 the nature of sudatories, in certaine chambers partition'd with stone for 
 the sick to sweate in, the vapours here being exceedingly hot, and of 
 admirable successe in the goute and other cold distempers of the nerves. 
 Hence we chmb'd up an hill, the very highway in several places even 
 smoaking w th heate like a fournace. The mountaines were by the 
 Greekes called Leucoyei, and the fields Phlaegrean. Hercules here van- 
 quished the Gyants assisted with lightning. We now came to the Court 
 of Vulcan, consisting of a valley neere a quarter of a mile in breadth, 
 the margent inviron'd with steepe cliffs, out of whose sides and foote 
 break forth fire and smoke in aboundance, making a noyse like a tem - 
 pest of water, and sometimes discharging in lowd reports like so many 
 guns. The heate of this place is wonderfull, the earth itselfe being 
 almost unsufferable, and which the subterranean fires have made so 
 hollow, by having wasted the matter for so many yeares, that it sounds 
 like a drum to those who walke upon it ; and the water thus struggling 
 with those fires bubbles and spoutes aloft into the ayre. The mouthes 
 of these spiracles are bestrew'd with variously-colour'd cinders, which 
 rise w th the vapour, as do many colour'd stones, according to the quality 
 of the combustible matter, insomuch as 'tis no little adventure to 
 approch them; they are however daily frequented both by sick and well, 
 the former receiving the fumes have been recover'd of diseases esteem'd 
 incurable. Here we found a greate deal of sulphure made, which they 
 refine in certaine houses neere the place, casting it into canes, to a very 
 
NAPLES. 1C45-] 
 
 145 
 
 create value. Neere this we were shew'dan hill of alume, where is one 
 of the hest mineries, yielding a considerable revenue. Some flowres of 
 hrasse are found here ; but I could not but smile at those who perswade 
 themselves that here are the Gates of Purgatory, (for which it may be 
 they have erected very neere it a Convent and named it St. Januarius,) 
 reporting to have often heard screeches and horrible lamentations pro- 
 ceeding from these caverns and vulcanos ; with other lea-ends of birds 
 that are never seene save on Sundayes, which cast themselves into the 
 lake at night, appearing no more all y e weeke after. 
 
 We now approch'd the mines of a very stately Temple or Theater of 
 1/2 foote in length and about 80 in breadth, throwne downe by an 
 earthquake not long since ; it was consecrated to Vulcan, and under 
 the ground are many strange meanders, from w oh it is nam'd the 
 Labyrinth ; this place is so haunted with batts that their perpetual flut- 
 tering endanger'd the putting out our linkes. 
 
 Hence we passed againe those boiling and smoking hills till we came 
 to Puzzolo, formerly the famous Puteoli, the landing-place of St. Paule 
 Then lie came into Italy after the tempest described in the Acts of 
 the Apostles. Here we made a good dinner, and bought divers me- 
 dailes and other curiosities, antiquities, &e. of the country people, who 
 daily find such things amongst the very old ruines of those places. This 
 Towne was formerly a Greeke Colonie, built by the Samians, a reason- 
 able commodious Port, and full of observable antiquities. We saw 
 the ruines of Neptune's Temple, to whom this place was sacred, and 
 neere it the stately palace and gardens of Peter de Toledo, formerly 
 mentioned. Afterwards we visited that admirably built Temple of 
 Augustus, seeming to have ben hewn out of an intire rock, tho' in- 
 deede consisting of several square stones. The inscription remaines 
 thus, " L. Calphurnius L. E. Templum Augusto cum omamentis 
 D. D." and under it ; " L. Coccejus L. C. Postumi L. Auctus Archi- 
 tects. " It is now converted into a Church, in which they shevv'd us 
 huge bones, w ch they affirme to have ben of some gyant. 
 
 We went to see the ruines of the old Haven, so compact with that 
 bituminous sand in which the materials are layd, as the like is hardly 
 to be found, though all this has not ben sufficient to protect it from the 
 
 vol. 1. 1; 
 
]4C) [NAPLES. 1 (745- 
 
 fatal concussions of several earthquakes (frequent here) which have 
 almost demolish'd it, 13 vast piles of marble onely remaining, a stu- 
 pendous worke in the bosome of Neptune ! To this joynes the bridg of 
 Caligula, by which (having now embarqu'd ourselves) we sail'd to the 
 pleasant Baiae, almost 4 miles in length, all which way that prowd 
 Emperor would passe in triumph. Here we row'd along towards a 
 villa of the orator Cicero's, \vhere we were shew'd the ruines of his 
 Academy, and at the foote of a rock his Bathes, the waters recipro- 
 cating their tides w th the neighbouring sea. Hard at hand rises Mount 
 Gaurus, being, as I conceiv'd, nothing save an heape of pumices, 
 which here floate in aboundance on the sea, exhausted of all inflam- 
 mable matter by the fire, w ch renders them light and porous, so as the 
 beds of niter w cb lye deepe under them having taken fire dos easily eject 
 them. They dig much for fancied treasure said to be conceil'd about 
 this place. From hence we coasted neere the ruines of Portus Julius, 
 where we might see divers stately palaces y* had ben swallow'd up by 
 the sea after earthquakes. Coming to shore we passe by the Lucrinc 
 Lake, so famous heretofore for its delicious oysters, now producing few 
 or none, being divided from y e sea by a banke of incredible labour, the 
 suppos'd worke of Hercules ; 'tis now halfe chock'd up w th rubbish, and 
 by part of the new mountaine, which rose partly out of it, and partly 
 out of the sea, and that in the space of one night and a day, to neere 
 the altitude of a mile, on the 29th Sept. 1538, after many terrible 
 earthquakes w ch ruined divers places thereabout, when at midnight the 
 sea retiring neere 200 paces, and yawning on y e sudaine, it continued 
 to vomit forth flames and fiery stones in such quantity as produced this 
 whole mountaine by their fall, making the inhabitants of Puzzole to 
 leave their habitations, supposing the end of the world had ben come. 
 
 From the left part of this we walked to the Lake Avernus, of a 
 round forme, and totaly inviron'd w th mountaines. This lake was 
 fain'd by the Poete for the gates of Hell, by w ch iEneas made his 
 descent, and where they sacrificed to Pluto and the Manes. The 
 waters are of a remarkable black colour, but I tasted of them without 
 danger; hence they faigne y* the river Styx has its sourse. At one 
 side stand the handsome ruines of a Temple dedicated to Apollo, or 
 
NAPLES. 1645.] 
 
 147 
 
 rather Pluto, but 'tis controverted. Opposite to this, having new 
 lighted our torches, we enter a vast cave, in which having gon about 
 two hundred paces, we passe a narrow entry which lead us into a roome 
 of about 10 paces long, proportionable broad and high ; the side walls 
 and roofe retaine still the golden Mosaiq, though now exceedingly 
 decay 'd by time. Here is a short cell, or rather niche, cut out of y^ 
 solid rock, somewhat resembling a couch, in which they report that 
 the Sibylla lay and utter'd her oracles ; but is supposed by most to have 
 been a bath onelv. This subterranean grott leads quite through to 
 Cuma, but is in some places obstructed by the earth w ch has sunk in, 
 so as we were constrain'd back againe & to creep on our bellys before 
 we came to the light. 'Tis reported Nero had once resolved to cut n 
 channel for two greate gallys y l should have extended to Ostia, an 150 
 miles distant. The people now call it Licola. 
 
 From hence we ascended to y l most ancient Citty of Italy, the re- 
 nowned Cuma, built by y e Grecians. It stands on a very eminent pro- 
 montory, but is now an heape of ruines. A little below stands the 
 Arco Felice, heretofore part of Apollo's Temple, with the foundations 
 of divers goodly buildings ; amongst whose heapes are frequently found 
 statues and other antiquities, by such as dig for them. Neere this is 
 the Lake Acherutia and Acheron. Returning to the shore we came 
 to the Bagnie de Tritoli and Diana, w ch are onely long narrow pas- 
 sages cut through the maine rock, where the vapours ascend so hot 
 that entring w tb the body erect you will even faint w th excessive perspi- 
 ration, but stooping lower as suddaine a cold surprizes. These suda- 
 tories are much in request for many infirmityes. Now we enter'd the 
 haven of the Baiae, where once stood that famous Towne, so call'd 
 from the Companion of Ulysses here buried ; not without greate reason 
 celebrated for one of the most delicious places that the sunn shines on, 
 according to that of Horace : 
 
 " Nullus in Orbe locus Baiis prselucet amoenis." 
 
 Though as to the stately fabrics there now remaine little save the 
 ruines, whereof the most intire is that of Diana's Temple, and another 
 of Venus. Here were those famous pooles of lampreys that Mould 
 
148 [NAPLES. lf)4;>. 
 
 come to hand when call'd by name, as Martial tells us. On the 
 sum'ite of the rock stands a strong Castle garison'd to protect the shore 
 from Turkish Pyrates. It was once the retyring place of Julius Caesar. 
 
 Passing by y e shore againe we entered Bauli, observable from the 
 monstrous murther of Nero com'itted on his mother Agrippina. Her 
 sepulchre was yet shew'd us in the rock, w ch we enter'd, being cover'd 
 with sundry heads and figures of beasts. We saw there the rootes of a 
 tree turn'd into stone, and are continualy dropping. 
 
 Thus having view'd the foundations of the old Cimeria, the palaces 
 of Marius, Pompey, Nero, Hortensius, and other villas and antiquities, 
 we proceeded towards the Promontory of Misenus, renown'd for y e 
 sepulchre of iEneas's Trumpeter. 'Twas once a greate Citty, now 
 hardly a ruine, sayd to have ben built from this place to the Promon- 
 tory of Minerva, 50 miles distant, now discontinu'd and demolish'd 
 by the frequent earthquakes. Here was the villa of Caius Marius, 
 where Tiberius Ceesar died ; and here runs the Aquseduct, thought to 
 be dug by Nero, a stupendous passage, heretofore nobly arched w Ul 
 marble, as the ruines testifie. Hence we walked to those receptacles 
 of water cald Piscina Mirabilis, being a vault of 500 feet long, and 
 22 in breadth, the roofe prop'd up with 4 rankes of square pillars, 
 12 in a row; the walls are brick plastcr'd over w th such a composi- 
 tion as for strength and politure resembles white marble. 'Tis con- 
 eeiv'd to have ben built by Nero, as a conservatory for fresh water ; 
 as were also the Centi Camerelli, into which we were next led. All 
 these Crypta being now almost sunke into y e earth, shew yet their 
 former amplitude and magnificence. 
 
 Returning towards the Baise we againe passe the Elyssian Fields, 
 so celebrated by the Poetes, not unworthily, for their situation and 
 verdure, being full of myrtils and sweete shrubs, and having a most 
 delightful prospect towards the Tyrrhen Sea. Upon the verge of these 
 remaine the ruines of the Mercato di Sabato, formerly a Circus ; over 
 tbe arches stand divers urnes full of Roman ashes. 
 
 Having well satisfied our curiosity among these Antiquities, we 
 retir'd to our felucca, w ch row'd us back againe towards Puzzolo, 
 at the very place of St. Paule's landing. Keeping along the shore 
 
NAPLES. 
 
 149 
 
 they shewed us a place where the sea-water ami sands did exceedingly 
 boyle. Thence to y e Island Nesis, once the fabulous Nymph ; and thus 
 we leave the Baiae, so renowned for the sweete retirements of the most 
 opulent and voluptuous Romans. They certainly were places of uncom- 
 monly amcenitie, as their yet tempting site and other circumstances of 
 natural curiosities easily invite me to believe, since there is not in the 
 world so many stupendious rarities to be met with as in the circle of a 
 few miles which inviron these blissfull aboades, 
 
 8 Feb. We went to see the Arsenal, well furnish'd with gallies 
 and other vessells. The Citty is crowded with inhabitants, gentlemen 
 and merchants. The Government is held of the Pope by an annual 
 tribute of 40,000 ducats and a white Genet ; but the Spanyard trusts 
 more to the power of those his natural subjects there ; Apulia and 
 Calabria yielding him neere 4 millions of crownes yearely to maintaine 
 it. The country is divided into 13 Provinces, 20 Archbishops, and 10J 
 Bishops. The estates of the Nobility, in default of the male line, re- 
 verting to the King. Besides the Vice-Roy there is amongst the Chiefe 
 Magistrates an High Constable, Admiral, Chiefe Justice, Greate Cham- 
 berlaine, and Chanoelor, with a Secretary ; these being prodigiously 
 avaricious, do wonderfully in rich themselves out of the miserable 
 people's labour, silks, manna, sugar, oyle, wine, rice, sulphur, and 
 alome, for w th all these riches is this delicious country blest. The 
 manna falls at certain seasons on the adjoyuing hills in forme of a thic'<; 
 dcuw. The very Winter here is a Summer, ever fruitefull, so that in 
 the middle of February we had melons, cheries, abricots, and many 
 other sorts of fruite. 
 
 The building of the Citty is for the size the most magnificent of any 
 in Europe, the streetes exceeding large, well paved, having many 
 vaults and conveyances under them for the sullage, w ch renders them 
 very sweete and cleane even in the midst of winter. To it belongeth 
 more than 3000 Churches and Monasteries, and those the best built 
 and adorn'd of any in Italy. They greately atFect the Spanish gravity 
 in their habite ; delight in good horses ; the streetes are full of gallants 
 on horseback, in coaches and sedans, from hence brought first into 
 England by Sir Sanders Duneomb. The women are generaly we$ 
 
150 
 
 [NAPLES. 1645- 
 
 featur'd, but excessively libidinous. The country-people so jovial and 
 addicted to musick, that the very husbandmen almost universal y play on 
 the guitarr, singing and composing songs in prayse of their sweetehearts, 
 and wil commonly goe to the field w th their fiddle ; they are merry, 
 witty, and genial, all w ch I much attribute to the excellent quality of 
 the ayre. They have a deadly hatred to the French, so that some of our 
 company were flouted at for wearing redcloakes, as the mode then was. 
 
 This I made the non ultra of my travels, sufficiently sated with 
 rolling up and downe, and resolving within myselfe to be no longer 
 an individuum vagum if ever I got home againe, since from the report 
 of divers experiene'd and curious persons I had ben assur'd there 
 was little more to be seene in the rest of the civil world, after Italy, 
 France, Flanders, and the Low Country, but plaine and prodigious 
 barbarisme. 
 
 Thus about the 7th of Feb. we sat out on our return to Rome by the 
 same way we came, not daring to adventure by Sea, as some of our 
 company were inclin'd to do, for fear of Turkish pirates hovering on 
 that coast ; nor made we any stay save at Albano, to view the celebrated 
 place and sepulchre of the famous Duelists who decided the ancient 
 cjuarrell betweene their imperious neighbours w th the loss of their lives. 
 These brothers, the Horatij and Curiatij, lye buried neere the high- 
 way, under two ancient pyramids of stone, now somewhat decay 'd and 
 overgrowne with rubbish. We tooke the opportunity of tasting the 
 wine here, which is famous. 
 
 Being arived at Rome on the 13th Feb. we were againe invited to 
 Sign'. Angeloni's study *, where w th greater leysure we survey'd the 
 rarities, as his cabinet and medaills especialy, esteem'd one of the best 
 collections of them in Europe. He also shew'd us two antiq lamps, 
 one of them dedicated to Palas, the other Laribns Sacj'ii, as appeared 
 by their inscriptions ; some old Roman rings and keyes ; the ./Egyptian 
 Isis cast in yron ; sundry rare bass-relievos ; good pieces of paynting, 
 principally the Christ of Corregio, w th this painter's owne face ad- 
 mirably don by himselfe ; divers of both y e Bassano's ; a greate number 
 
 * See p. <J9. 
 
ROME. 1645-] 151 
 
 of pieces by Titian, particularly the Triumphs ; an infinity of natural! 
 
 rarities, dry'd animals, Indian habits and weapons, shells, &c. ; divers 
 
 very antiq statues of brasse ; some lamps of so fine an earth that they 
 
 resembled cornelians for transparency and colour ; hinges of Corinthian 
 
 brasse, and one greate nayle of the same mettal found in the ruines of 
 
 Nero's o-olden house. 
 o 
 
 In the afternoone we ferried over to Transtevere, to the Palace of 
 Gichi*, to review the works of Raphael : and returning by St. Angelo, 
 we saw the Castle as far as was permitted, and on the other side con- 
 sidered those admirable pilasters suppos'd to be of the foundation of 
 the Pons Sublicius, over which Hor. Codes pass'd ; here ankor 3 or 4 
 water-mills invented by Belizarius : and thence had another sight of 
 the Farnesi's gardens -f, and of the tarrace where is that admirable 
 paynting of Raphael being a Cupid playing with a Dolphin, wrought 
 a Jresca, preserv'd in shutters of wainscott, as well it merites, being 
 certainely one of the most wonderful pieces of worke in the world. 
 
 14 Feb. I went to S ,a Cecilia, a church built and endow'd by 
 Card 1 . Sfrondaeti, who has erected a stately altar neere the body of 
 this martyr, not long before found in a vesture of silk girt about, a 
 veile on her head, and the bloody scans of 3 wounds on the neck ; the 
 body is now in a silver chest, \v th her statue over it in snow-white 
 marble. Other Saints lie here decorated with splendid ornaments, 
 lamps, and incensories of greate cost. A little farther they shew us 
 the Bathe of St. Cecilia, to w cb joynes a Convent of Friers, where is the 
 picture of the Flagellation by Vanni, and the columns of the Portico 
 taken from the Bathes of Septimius Severus. 
 
 15 Feb. Mr. Henshaw and 1 walked by the Tyber and visited the 
 Stola Tybertina (now St. Bartholomew's), formerly cut in the shape 
 of a ship, and wharfed with marble, in which a lofty obelisq repre- 
 sented the mast. In the Church of St. Bartholomew is the body of 
 the Apostle. Here are the ruines of the Temple of iEsculapius, now 
 converted into a stately Hospital and a pretty Convent. Opposite to it 
 is the Convent and Church of St. John Calabita, where I saw nothing 
 
 * See p. 1'2S. 
 
 f !5CC p. 91. 
 
152 
 
 [rome. l64'r. 
 
 remarkable save an old broken altar. Here was the Temple of Fortuna 
 Virilis. Hence we went to a cupola, now a Church, formerly dedi- 
 cated to the Sun. Opposite to it S ,a Maria Schola Graeca, where for- 
 merly that tongue was taught, said to be the second Church dedicated 
 in Rome to the Bl. Virgin, bearing also the title of a Cardinalat. 
 Behind this stands the greate altar of Hercules, much demolish'd. 
 Neere this, being at the foote of Mount Aventine, are the Pope's salt- 
 houses. Ascending the hill we came to St. Sabina, an ancient fabric, 
 formerly sacred to Diana; there in a Chapel is an admirable picture, 
 the work of Livia Fontana, set about with columns of alabaster, and in 
 the middle of the Church is a stone, cast as they report, by the Devil 
 at St. Dominic whilst he was at masse. Hence we travelled towards 
 an heape of rubbish t ailed the Marmorata on the bank of the Tyber, a 
 magazine of stones, and neere which formerly stood a triumphal arch 
 in honor of Horatius vanquishing the Tuscans. The mines of the 
 bridg vet appeare. 
 
 We were now got to Mons Testseceus, an heape of potshards almost 
 200 foote high, thought to have ben amassed and thrown there by 
 the subjects of the Commonwealth bringing their tribute in earthen 
 vessells, others (more probably) that it was a quarter of the towne 
 where potters lived ; at the sum'it Rome affords a noble prospect. 
 Before it is a spacious greene called the Hippodrom, where Olympic 
 games were celebrated, and the people muster'd, as in our London 
 Artillerie-ground. Going hence to the old wall of the Citty, we much 
 admir'd the pyramid or tomb of C. Cestius, of white marble, one of 
 the most ancient intire monuments, inserted in the wall, with this 
 inscription . 
 
 " C. Cestius L. F. Pob, Epulo (an order of priests) Pr. Tr. pi. VII Vir. 
 Epulonum." 
 
 And a little beneath : 
 
 " Opus absolutum ex testamento diebus CCCXXX. arbitratu. Ponti P. F. 
 Cla. Mela? Heredis et Pothi L." 
 
 At the left hand is the Port of St. Paule, once Tergemina, out of 
 which the 3 Horatii pass'd to encounter the Curiatii of Albano. 
 Hence bending homewards by St. Saba, by Antoninus's Bathes (which 
 
ROME. 1645-] 
 
 153 
 
 we enter'd) is the marble Sepulchre of Vespasian. The thickness ot" 
 the walls and stately mines shew the enormous magnitude of these 
 Bathes. Passing by a corner of the Circus Maximus, we view'd the 
 place where stood the Septizonium, demolish'd by Sixtus V. for feare 
 of its falling. Going by M. Coelius, we beheld the devotions of St. 
 Maria in Navicula, so nam'd from a ship carv'd out in white marble 
 standing on a pedestal before it, suppos'd to be the vowe of one escaped 
 from shipwreck. It has a glorious front to the streete. Adjoining to 
 this are the Horti Mathsei, which only of all the places about y c Cittv 
 I omitted visiting, tho' I was told inferiour to no garden in Rome for 
 statues, ancient monuments, aviaries, fountaines, groves, and especialy 
 a noble obelisq, and maintain'd in beauty at the expense of 6000 
 crownes yearely, which if not expended to keepe up its beauty forfeits 
 the possession of a greater revenue to another family; so curious are 
 they in their villas and places of pleasure, even to excesse. 
 
 The next day we went to the once famous Circus Caracalla, in the 
 midst of which there now lay prostrate one of the most stately and 
 ancient Obelisks, full of ^Egyptian hieroglyphics. It was broken into 
 4 pieces when o'rethrowne by the Barbarians, and would have ben pur- 
 chas'd and transported into England by the magnificent Thomas Earle 
 of Arundel, could it have ben well removed to the sea. This is since 
 set together and placed on the stupenduous artificial rock made by 
 Innocent X. and serving for a fountaine in Piazza Navona, the worke of 
 Bernini, the Pope's Architect. Neere this is the Sepulchre of Metellus, 
 of massy stone, pretty entire, now cal'd Capo di Bove. Hence to a 
 small Oratorie nam'd Domine quo vadis, where the tradition is, that 
 our B. Saviour met St. Peter as he fled, and turn'd him back againe. 
 
 St. Sebastians was the next, a meane structure (the faciata excepted) 
 but is venerable especialy for the reliques and grotts in w ch lie the ashes 
 of many holy men. Here is kept the pontifical chaire sprinkled w Ul the 
 blood of Pope Stephen, tow ch greate devotion is paid ; also' a well full 
 of Martyrs' bones, and the sepulchre of St. Sebastian, with one of the 
 arrowes [used in shooting him] ; these are preserved by the Fulgentine 
 Monks, who have here their Monasterie, and who led us down into a 
 grotto which they affirm'd went divers furlongs under ground ; the sides 
 
 VOL. I. X 
 
154 
 
 [home. 1645. 
 
 or walls w ch we passed were fill'd with bones and dead bodies, laid as 
 it were on shelfes, whereof some were shut up w th broad stones, and 
 now and then a crosse or a palme cut in them. At the end of some of 
 these subterranean passages were square roomes with altars in them, 
 said to have ben the receptacles of primitive Christians in the times of 
 persecution, nor seems it improbable. 
 
 17 Feb, I was invited after dinner to the Academie of the Hu- 
 morists, kept in a spacious hall belonging to Sign 1 * Mancini, where the 
 Witts of the towne meete on certaine daies to recite poems, and debate 
 on severall subjects. The first y l speakes is cal'd the Lord, and stands 
 in an eminent place, and then the rest of the Virtuosi recite in order. 
 By these ingenious exercises, besides the learn'd discourses, is the 
 purity of the Italian tongue daily improv'd. The roome is hung round 
 with devises or emblemes, w th mottos under them. There are severall 
 other Academies of this nature, bearing like fantastical titles. In this 
 of the Humorists is the picture of Guarini, the famous author of the 
 Pastor Fido, once of this society. The cheife part of the day we spent 
 in hearing the academic exercises. 
 
 18 Feb. We walked to St. Nicholas in Carcere; it has a faire front, 
 and within are parts of y e bodys of St. Mark and Marcellino ; on the 
 Tribuna is a painting of Gentileschi, and the altar of Caval. Baglioni, 
 with some other rare paintings. Coming round from hence we passed 
 by the Circus Flaminius, formerly very large, now totaly in ruines. In 
 the afternoon we visited the English Jesuites, with whose Superior, P. 
 Stafford, I was well acquainted ; who received us courteously. "They 
 call their Church and College St. Thomasso de gli Inglesi, and is a 
 Seminarie. Amongst other trifles they shew the relicq of Beckett, 
 their reputed Martyr. Of paintings there is one of Durante, and many 
 representing the sufferings of severall of their society executed in 
 England, especialy F. Champion. 
 
 In the Hospital of the Pelerini della S. Trinita I had seen the feete 
 of many pilgrims wash'd by Princes, Cardinals, and Noble Romans, 
 and serv'd at table, as the Ladys and Noble Women did to other poore 
 creatures in another roome. 'Twas told us that no lesse than four 
 hundred fourtv-foure thousand men had ben thus treated in the Jubilee 
 
 if 
 
ROME. 1645-] 
 
 155 
 
 of 1600, and 25,500 women, as appeares by the Register, sv oh brings 
 store of money. 
 
 Returning homeward I saw the Palace of Cardinal Spada, where is 
 a most magnificent hall painted by Daniel da Volterra and Giulio Pia» 
 centino, who made the fret in the little Court; but the rare perspectives 
 are of Bolognesi., Neere this is the Monte Pieta, instituted as a Bank 
 for the Poore, who, if the sum be not greate, may have mony upon 
 pawns, &c. To this joynes St. Martino, to w ch belongs a Scholo. 
 or Corporation that do many works of charity. Hence we came 
 through Campo di Fiori, or Herb Market, in the midst of which is 
 a fountaine casting water out of a dolphin in coper; and in this Piazza 
 is common execution don. 
 
 I went this afternoone to visite mv Lord John Somerset, brother to 
 the Marques of Worcester, who had his appartment in Palazzo della 
 Cancellaria, belonging to Cardinal Francesco Barberini as Vice-chan^ 
 celor of the Church of Rome and Protector of the English. The 
 building is of the famous Architect Bramante, of incrusted marble, with 
 4 ranks of noble lights; the principal enterance is of Fontana's designe, 
 and all of marble; the portico within sustain'd by massie columns; 
 on the second peristyle above, the chambers are rarely painted by 
 Salviati and Visari ; and so ample is this Palace that 6 Princes with 
 their families have ben receiv'd in it at one time, without incommoding 
 each other. 
 
 20" Feb. I went (as was mv usual costome) and spent an afternoone 
 in Piazzo Navona, as well to see what antiquities I could purchase 
 among the people who hold mercat there for medaills, pictures, and 
 such curiosities, as to heare the Montebanks prate and distribute their 
 medicines. This was formerly the Circus of Agonales, dedicated to 
 sports and pastimes, and is now the greatest mercat of y e Citty, having 
 three most noble fountaines, and the stately Palaces of the Pamfilij, 
 St. Giacomo de Spagnoli belonging to that nation, to which add two 
 Convents for Friers and Nuns, all Spanish. In this Church wa9 
 erected a most stately Catafalco, or Capella ardente, for the death of 
 the Queene of Spaine ; the Church was hung with black, and heare 1 
 heard a Spanish sermon or funebral oration, and observed the statues, 
 
156 
 
 [rome. 1645. 
 
 devises, and impreses hung about the walls, the Church and Pyramid 
 stuck with thousands of lights and tapers, which made a glorious shew. 
 The statue of St. James is by Sansovino ; there are also some good 
 pictures of Caracci. The facciata too is faire. Returning home I 
 pass'd by the stumps of old Pasquin at the corner of a streete call'd 
 Strada Pontificia ; here they still past up their drolling lampoons and 
 scurrilous papers. This had formerly ben one of the best statutes for 
 workmanship and art in all the Citty, as the remaining bust does 
 still shew. 
 
 21 Feb. I walked in the morning up the hill towards the Capuchins, 
 where was then Cardinal Onufrio (brother to the late Pope Urban VIII.) 
 of the same order. He built them a pretty Church, full of rare pictures, 
 and there lies the body of St. Felix, that they say still does miracles. 
 The piece at y e great altar is by Lanfranc. 'Tis a lofty edifice, with a 
 beautifull avenue of trees, and in a good aire. After dinner passing 
 along the Strada del Carso, I observed the column of Antoninus 
 passing under Arco Portugallo, which is but a relic, heretofore erected 
 in honor of Domitian, cal'd now Portugallo from a Cardinal living 
 neere it. A little further on the right hand stands the column, in a 
 small piazza, heretofore set up in honor of M. Aurelius Antoninus, 
 comprehending in a basse-relievo of white marble his hostil acts against 
 the Parthians, Armenians, Germans, &c. but it is now somewhat decay'd. 
 On the sum'it has been placed the image of St. Paule of gilded coper. 
 The pillar is said to be 161 foote high, ascended by 20/ 7 steps, receiving 
 light by 56 apertures, without defacing the sculpture. 
 
 At a little distance are the relicques of the Emperors Palace, the 
 heads of whose pillars shew them to have ben Corinthian. 
 
 Turning a little down we came to another piazza, in which stands a 
 sumptuous vase of porphyrie, and a faire fountaine ; but the grace ot 
 this merket, and indeede the admiration of the whole world, is the 
 Pantheon, now called S. Maria della Rotonda, formerly sacred to all the 
 Gods, and still remaining the most entire antiquitie of the Citty. Jt 
 was built by Marcus Agrippa, as testifies the architrave of the portico 
 sustain'd by 13 pillars of Theban marble, 6 foote thick and 53 in height, 
 of one intire stone. In this porch is an old inscription. 
 
ROME. 1645-] 
 
 157 
 
 Entring the Church we admire the fabric, wholly cover'd with one 
 cupola, seemingly suspended in the aire, and receiving light by a hole 
 in the middle onely. The structure is neere as high as broad, viz. 
 144 foote, not counting the thicknesse of the walls, w ch is 22 more 
 to the top, all of white marble, and til Urban VIII. converted part 
 of the metall into ordnance to warr against the Duke of Parma, and 
 part to make the high altar in St. Peters, it was all over cover'd with 
 Corinthian brasse, ascending by 40 degrees within the roof or convex 
 of the cupola, richly carved with octagons in the stone. There are 
 niches in the walls, in w ch stood heretofore the statues of Jupiter and 
 the other Gods and Goddesses ; for here was that Venus which had 
 hung in her ear the other Union* that Cleopatra was about to dis- 
 solve and drink up as she had done its fellow. There are severall of 
 these niches one above another for the celestial, terrestrial, and sub- 
 terranean deities, but the place is now converted into a Church dedi- 
 cated to the B. Virgin and all the Saints. The pavement is excel- 
 lent, and the vast folding gates of Corinthian brasse. In a word, 
 'tis of all the Roman antiquities the most worthy of notice. There lie 
 interr'd in this Temple the famous Raphael da Urbino, Perino del 
 Vaga, F. Zuccharo, and other painters. 
 
 Returning home we passe by Cardinal Cajetan's Palace, a noble 
 piece of architecture of Vincenzo Ammanatti, w" h is the grace of the 
 whole Corso. 
 
 22 Feb. I went to Trinita del Monte, a monasterie of French, a 
 noble Church built by Lewis XI. and Charles VIII. the Chapells well 
 painted, especialy that by Zuccari, Volterra, and the cloyster w th the 
 miracles of their St. Francis di Paulo and the heads of the Frencli 
 
 * And in the cup an union shall he throw, 
 Richer than that which four successive kings 
 In Denmark's crown have worn. 
 
 Shakespeare, Hamlet, Act V. Sc. 2 ; ed. Johnson and Steevens. 
 Theobald says, an union is the finest sort of pearl, and has its place in all crowns and coronets-. 
 Steevens cites from Soliman and Perseda — " Ay, were it Cleopatra's union" — adding the following 
 elucidation of the term from P. Holland's Translation of Pliny's Natural History : " And here- 
 upon it is that our dainties and delicates here at Rome, &c. call them unions, as a man would -ay 
 singular and by themselves alone." Edit. 
 
158 
 
 [ROME. 1645. 
 
 Kings. In y e pergolo above, the walls are wrought with excellent 
 perspective, especialy the St. John; there are the Babylonish dials in- 
 vented by Kircher the Jesuite. This Convent so eminently situated on 
 Mons Pincius, has the intire prospect of Campus Martius, and has a 
 faire garden which joynes to the Palazzo di Medici. 
 
 23d. I went to heare a sermon at St. Giacomo de gli Incurabili, 
 a faire Church built by F. Volaterra, of good architecture, and so is 
 the Hospital, where only desperate patients are brought. I pass'd the 
 evening at St. Maria del Popolo, heretofore Nero's sepulchre, where his 
 ashes lay many yeares in a marble chest. To this Church joynes the 
 Monasterie of St. Augustine, w' 1 ' has pretty gardens on Mons Pincius, 
 and in the Church is the miraculous shrine of the Madona w. cU Pope 
 Paul III. brought barefooted to the place, supplicating for a victory 
 over the Turks in 1464. In a Chapell of the Ghisi are some rare 
 paintings of Raphael and noble sculptures. Those two in the Choire 
 are by Sansovino, and in the Chapel de Cerasii a piece of Caravaggio. 
 Here lie buried many greate scholars and artists, of which 1 tooke 
 notice of this inscription : 
 
 Hospes, disce novum mortis genus ; improba felis, 
 Dum trahitur, digitum rnordet, et intereo. 
 
 Opposite to the faciata of the Church is a superb obelise full of hiero- 
 glyphics, the same that Sennesertus K. of Egypt dedicated to the Sun, 
 brought to Rome by Augustus, erected in the Circus Maximus, and 
 since placed here by Pope Sixtus V. It is 88 foote high, of one intire 
 stone, and placed \v th greate art and engines by the famous Domenico 
 Fontana. 
 
 Hence turning on the right out of the Porto del Popolo, we came to 
 Justinian's gardens neere the Muro torto, so prominently built as 
 threatning every moment to fall, yet standing so for these thousand 
 yeares. Under this is the burying-place for the com'on prostitutes, 
 where they are put into the ground sans ceremonie. 
 
 24 Feb. We walked to St. Roches and Martines neere the brink of 
 the Tvber, a large Hospital for both sexes. Hence to the Mausolseum 
 Augusti 'twixt the Tyber and the Via Flaminia, now much ruin'd, 
 
« 
 
 ROME. 1645.] 159 
 
 which had formerly contended for its sumptuous architecture. It was 
 intended as a cemeterie for the Roman Emperors, had twelve ports, and 
 was cover'd with a cupola of white marble, inviron'd with stately trees 
 and innumerable statues, all of it now converted into a garden. We 
 pass'd the afternoone at the Sapienza, a very stately building full of 
 good marbles, especialy the Portico, of admirable architecture. These 
 are properly the Universitie Scholes, where lectures are read on law, 
 medicine, and anatomie, and students perform their exercises. 
 
 Hence we walk'd to St. Andrea della Valle neere the former Theater 
 of Pompey, and the famous Piccolomini, but given to this Church and 
 the Order who are Theatines. The Barberini have in this place a 
 Chapell, of curious incrusted marbles of severall sorts, and rare paint- 
 ings. Under it is the place where St. Sebastian is said to have ben 
 beaten with rods before he was shot with darts. The cupola is paynted 
 by Lanfranc, an inestimable work, and the whole fabric and Monas- 
 tery adjoining are admirable. 
 
 25 Feb. I was invited by a Dominican Frier, whom we usually 
 heard preach to a number of Jewes, to be god-father to a converted 
 Turk and Jew. The ceremonie was perform'd in the Church of S ta 
 Maria sopra la Minerva, neere the Capitol. They were clad in white, 
 then exorcis'd at their enterina; the Church witli aboundance of cere- 
 monies, and when led into the Choir were baptiz'd by a Bishop in 
 ■potijicalibus. The Turk lived afterwards in Rome, sold hot waters, 
 and would bring us presents when he met us, kneeling and kissing the 
 hems of our cloaks ; but the Jew was believ'd to be a counterfeit. 
 This Church, situate on a spacious rising, was formerly consecrated to 
 Minerva. 'Tis well built and richly adorn'd, and the bodv of St. Ca- 
 therine di Sienna lies buried here. The paintings of y e Chapel are by 
 Marcello Venuti ; the Madona over the altar is by Giov. di Fiesole, 
 cal'd the Angelic Painter, who was of the Order of these Monks. 
 There are many charities dealt publiqly here, especialy at the Proces- 
 sion on the Annunciation, when I saw his Holinesse, with all the Car- 
 dinals, Prelates, &c. in pontificalibus ; dowries being given to 300 
 poore girls all clad in white. The Pope had his tiara on his head, and 
 was carried on mens shoulders in an open arm-chaire, blessing the 
 
160 [rome. 1645. 
 
 people as he pass'd. The statue of Christ at the Columna is esteem'd 
 one of the master-pieces of M. Angelo : innumerable are the paintings 
 by the best artists, and the organ is accounted one of y e sweetest in 
 Rome. Cardinal Bembo is interred here. We return'd by St. Marcs, 
 a stately Church, with an excellent pavement, and a fine piece by Peru- 
 gino, of the two Martyrs. Adjoyning to this is a noble Palace built 
 by the famous Bramanti. 
 
 26 Feb. Ascending the hill we came to the Forum Trajanum, 
 where his column stands yet intire, wrought with admirable bass- 
 relievo recording the Dacian war, the figures at the upper part appear- 
 ing of the same proportion with those below. 'Tis ascended by 192 
 steps, enlightened with 44 apertures or windows, artificialy dispos'd ; 
 in height from the pedestal 140 foote. 
 
 It had once the ashes of Trajan and his statue, where now stands 
 St. Peter's of gilt brasse, erected by Pope Sixtus V. The sculpture of 
 this stupendious pillar is thought to be the work of Apollodorus ; but 
 what is very observable is the descent to the plinth of the pedestale, 
 shewing how this ancient Cittie lies now buried in her ruines, this mo- 
 nument being at first set up on a rising ground. After dinner we took 
 the aire in Cardinal Bentivoglio's delicious gardens, now but newly 
 deceas'd. He had a faire Palace built by several good masters on part 
 of the ruines of Constantine's Bathes : well adorn'd w th columns and 
 paintings, especialy those of Guido Rheni. 
 
 27 Feb. In the morning Mr. Henshaw and my selfe walked to the 
 Trophies of Marius, erected in honour of his victorie over the Cim- 
 brians, but these now taken out of their niches are plac'd on the ba- 
 lusters of the Capitol, so that their ancient station is now a ruine. 
 Keeping on our way we came to St. Crosse of Jerusalem, built by Con- 
 stantine over the demolition of the Temple of Venus and Cupid, which 
 he threw down ; and 'twas here they report he deposited the wood of 
 the true Crosse found by his mother Helena in honour whereof this 
 Church was built, and in memory of his victory over Maxentius when 
 that holy signe appear'd to him. The edifice without is Gotiq, but 
 very glorious within, especialy the roofe, and one tribune well painted. 
 Here is a Chapel dedicated to St. Helena, the floore whereoff is of earth 
 
rome. 16*45*] 161 
 
 brought from Jerusalem ; the walls are of faire Mosaic, in which they 
 suffer no women to enter it save once a yeare. Under the high altar 
 of the Church is buried St. Anastasius, in Lvdian marble, and Bene- 
 dict VII. and they shew a number of reliques, expos'd at our request, 
 with a phial of our B. Saviour's blood ; two thornes of his Crowne ; 
 three chips of the real Crosse ; one of the nailes, wanting a point ; 
 St. Thomas's doubting finger; and a fragment of the title [put on the 
 Cross]], being part of a thin board ; some of Judas's pieces of silver, 
 and many more, if one had faith to believe it. To this venerable Church 
 joynes a Monasterie, the gardens taking up the space of an ancient 
 amphitheater. Hence we pass'd beyond the walls out at the Port of 
 St. Laurence to that Saint's Church, and where his ashes are enshrin'd. 
 This was also built by the same great Constantiue, famous for the 
 Coronation of Pietro Altisiodorensis, Emperor of Constantinople, by 
 Honorius the Second. 'Tis sayd the corps of St. Stephen the proto- 
 martyr was deposited here by that of St. Sebastian, which it had no 
 sooner touch'd but Sebastian gave it place of its own accord. The 
 Church has no lesse than 7 privileg'd altars and excellent pictures. 
 About the walls are painted this martyr's sufferings, and when they 
 built them, the bones of divers Saints were translated to other Churches. 
 The front is Gotic. In our return we saw a small ruine of an aqueeduct 
 built by Q. Marcius the praetor; and so pass'd thro' that incomparable 
 strait streete leading to S ta Maria Maggiore, to our lodging, sufficiently 
 tired. 
 
 We were taken up next morning in seeing the impertinences of the 
 Carnival, when all the world are as mad at Rome as at other places ; 
 but the most remarkable were the 3 races of the Barbarie horses, that 
 run in the Strada del Corso without riders, onely having spurrs so 
 placed on their backs, and hanging downe by their sides, as by their 
 motion to stimulate them ; then of mares, then of asses, of buffalos, 
 naked men, old and young, and boys, and aboundance of idle ridiculous 
 passetime. One thing is remarkable, their acting comedies on a stage 
 placed on a cart, or planstrum, where the scene or tiring-place is made 
 of boughs in a rural manner, which they drive from streete to streete 
 
 VOL. I. \ 
 
162 
 
 [rome. 1645. 
 
 •vith a yoake or two of oxen, after the ancient guise. The streetes 
 swarm w tb prostitutes, buffoones, and all man'er of rabble. 
 
 1 March. At the Greeke Church we saw y e Eastern ceremonies 
 perform'd by a Bishop, &c. in that tongue. Here the unfortunate 
 Duke and Dutchess of Bullion received their ashes, it being the first 
 day of Lent ; there was now as much trudging up and downe of devotees 
 as the day before of licentious people, all Saints alike to appearance. 
 
 The gardens of Justinian, which we next visited, are very full of sta- 
 tues and antiquities, especialy urnes, amongst which is that of Min. 
 Felix ; a Terminus that formerly stood in the Appian Way, and a huge 
 colosse of the Emperor Justinian. There is a delicate aviarie on the 
 hill ; the whole gardens furnish'd with rare collections, fresh, shady, 
 and adorn'd w th noble fountaines. Continuing our walke a mile farther, 
 we came to Pons Milvius, now Mela, where Constantine overthrew 
 Maxentius, and saw the miraculous signe of the Crosse, " in hoc signo 
 vinces." It was a sweete morning, and the bushes were full of night- 
 ingals. Hence to Aqua Claudia againe, an aqueduct finish'd by that 
 Emperor at the expence of 8 millions. In the afternoone to Farneze's 
 gardens, neere the Campo Vaccino ; and upon the Palatine Mount to 
 survey the ruines of Juno's Temple in the Piscina, a Piazza so call'd 
 neere the famous bridg built by Antoninus Pius and re-edified by Pope 
 Sixtus IV. 
 
 The rest of this weeke we went to the Vatican, to heare the sermons 
 at St. Peter's of the most famous preachers, who discourse on the same 
 subjects and texts yearely, full of Italian eloquence and action. On 
 our Lady-day, 25 March, we saw the Pope and Cardinals ride in pomp 
 to the Minerva, the greate guns of the Castle St. Angelo being fired, 
 when he gives portions to 500 zitelle [young women], who kisse his feete 
 in procession, some destin'd to marry, some to be nunns. The scholars 
 of the Colledge celebrating the B. Virgin with their compositions. The 
 next day his Holinesse was busied in blessing golden roses, to be sent 
 to severall greate Princes; the Procurator of the Carmelites preaching on 
 our Savior's feeding the multitude with 5 loaves, the ceremony ends. 
 The Sacrament being this day expos'd and the reliques of the Holy 
 
ROME. 1645 •] 
 
 163 
 
 Crosse, the concourse about the streetes is extraordinarie. On Palm 
 Sunday there was a greate procession after a papal masse. 
 
 11 April. St. Veronica's handkercheif [with the impression of our 
 Saviour's face] was expos'd, and the next day the speare, with a world 
 of ceremonie. On Holy Thursday the Pope said masse, and afterwards 
 carried the Host in procession about the Chapell, with an infinitie of 
 tapers; this finish'd, his Holinesse was carried in his open chaire on 
 men's shoulders to the place where, reading the Bull in Coena Domini, 
 he both curses and blesses all in a breath ; then the guns are againe fired 
 Hence he went to the Ducal hall of the Vatican, where he wash'd the 
 feete of 12 poore men, with almost the same ceremonie as 'tis don at 
 Whitehall ; they have clothes, a dinner, and almes, w ch he gives with 
 his owne hands, and serves at their table; they have also gold and silver 
 medailles, but their garments are of white wollen long robes, as we paint 
 the Apostles. The same ceremonies are don by y e Conservators and 
 other Officers of State at St. John de Lateran ; and now the table on 
 w ch they say our Blessed Lord celebrated his last supper, is set out, and 
 the heads of the Apostles. In every famous Church they are busv in 
 dressing up their pageantries to represent the Holy Sepulchre, of which 
 we went to visite divers. 
 
 On Good Friday we went againe to St. Peter's, where the Hand- 
 kerchief, Launce, and Crosse were all expos'd and worshipp'd toge- 
 ther. All the confession-seates were fill'd with devout people, and at 
 night was a procession of several who most lamentably whipped them- 
 selves till the blood stained their clothes, for some had shirts, others 
 upon the bare back, having vizors and masks on their faces; at everv 3 
 or 4 steps dashing the knotted and ravelled whipcord over their shoul- 
 ders, as hard as they could lay it on, whilst some of the religious orders 
 and fraternities sung in a dismal tone, the lights and crosses going 
 before, making altogether a horrible and indeede heathenish pompe. 
 
 The next day there was much ceremony at St. John de Lateran, so 
 as the whole weeke was spent in running from Church to Church, 
 all the towne in buisy devotion, greate silence, and unimaginable 
 superstition. 
 
 Easter-dav I was awaken'd by the guns from St. Angelo: we went to 
 
164 
 
 [home. 1645. 
 
 St. Peter's, where the Pope himselfe celebrated masse, shew'd the 
 reliques before named, and gave a publiq benediction. 
 
 Monday we went to heare music in the Chiesa Nova, and tho' there 
 were aboundance of ceremonies at the other greate Churches, and greate 
 exposure of reliques, yet being wearied with sights of this nature, and 
 the season of the yeare, summer, at Rome being very dangerous by rea- 
 son of the heates, minding us of returning Northwards, we spent the rest 
 of our time in visiting such places as we had not yet sufficiently seene ; 
 onely I do not forget the Pope's benediction of the Confalone, or Stand- 
 ard, and giving the hallowed palmes; and on May-day the greate pro- 
 cession of the Universitie and the Mulatiers at St. Antonie's, and their 
 setting up a foolish May-pole in the Capitol, very ridiculous. We 
 therefore now tooke coach a little out of towne, to visite the famous 
 Roma soterranea, being much like what we had seen at St. Sebas- 
 tian's. Here in a cornfield, guided by two torches, we crept on our 
 bellies into a little hole, about 20 paces, which delivered us into a large 
 entrie that led us into several streetes or allies, a good depth in the 
 bo wells of the earth, a strange and fearefull passage for divers miles, 
 as Bosio has measured and described them in his book *. We ever 
 and anon came into pretty square roomes, that seem'd to be Chapells 
 with altars, and some adorn'd with very ordinary ancient painting. 
 Many skeletons and bodies are plac'd on the sides one above the other 
 in degrees like shelves, whereof some are shut up with a coarse flat 
 stone, having ingraven on them Pro Christo, or a Cross and Palmes, 
 w eh are SU pposed to have been martyrs. Here, in all likelyhood, were 
 the meetings of the primitive Christians during the persecutions, as 
 Pliny the younger describes them. As I was prying about, I found a 
 glasse phiale, fill'd as was conjectur'd with dried blood, and 2 lachry- 
 matories. Many of the bodies, or rather bones (for there appear'd 
 nothing else) lay so intire as if plac'd by the art of the chirurgeon, but 
 being only touched fell all to dust. Thus after wandering two or three 
 miles in this subterranean meander, we return'd almost blind when we 
 came into the day-light, and even choked by the smoake of the torches. 
 
 * Intituled Roma Sotttranea, folio, Rom. 163*2. 
 
HOME. 1645.J 
 
 165 
 
 It is said that a French Bishop and his retinue adventuring too far in 
 these denns, their lights going out, were never heard of more. 
 
 We were entertain'd at night with an English play at the Jesuites, 
 where we before had dined ; and the next at Prince Galicano's, who 
 himself composed the musiq to a magnificent opera, where were present 
 Cardinal Pamphilio the Pope's nephew, the Governors of Rome, the 
 Cardinals, ambassadors, ladies, and a number of nobility and strangers. 
 There had been in the morning a Just and Tournament of severall young 
 gentlemen on a formal defy, to which we had been invited ; the prizes 
 being distributed by the ladies after the knight-errantry way. The 
 launcers and swordsmen running at tilt against the barriers, with a 
 greate deale of clatter, but without any bloodshed, giving much diversion 
 to the spectators, and was new to us travellers. 
 
 The next day Mr. Henshaw and I spent the morning in attending 
 the entrance and cavalcade of Card. Medici, the Ambass r from the Grand 
 Duke of Florence, by the Via Flaminia. After dinner we went again 
 to see the Villa Borghesi, about a mile without the Cittie ; the garden 
 is rather a park or paradise, contriv'd and planted with vvalkes and shades 
 of myrtils, cypresse and other trees and groves, with aboundance of 
 fountaines, statues, and bass-relievos, and several pretty murmuring 
 rivulets. Here they had hung large netts to catch woodcocks. There 
 was also a f^ivarie, where amongst other exotic fowles was an ostridge; 
 besides a most capacious aviarie ; and in another inclosed part, an herd 
 of deere. Before the palace (which might become the courte of a 
 great prince) stands a noble fountaine of white marble, inrich'd with 
 statues. The outer walls of the house are incrusted with excellent 
 antique basse-relievos of the same marble, incornish'd with festoons 
 and niches set with statues from the foundation to the roofe. A stately 
 Portico joynes the palace, full of statues and columns of marble, urnes 
 and other curiosities of sculpture. In the first hall were the 12 Caesars 
 of antiq marble, and the whole apartments furnish'd with pictures of the 
 most celebrated masters, and two rare tables of porphyrie of greate 
 value. But of this already*, for I often visited this delicious place. 
 
 * See p. 106. 
 
 « 
 
166 
 
 [rome. 1645. 
 
 This night were glorious fire-works at the palace of Card. Medici 
 before the gate, and lights of severall colours all about the windows 
 through the Cittie, which they contrive by setting the candles in little 
 paper lanterns died with various colours, placing hundreds of them 
 from storie to storie, which renders a gallant shew. 
 
 4 May. Having seen the entrie of y c Ambass' of Lucca, I went to 
 the Vatican, where, by favour of our Cardinal Protector, Fran. Barberini, 
 I was admitted into the Consistorie, heard the Ambass r make his ora- 
 tion in Latine to the Pope, sitting on an elevated state or throne, and 
 changing two pontifical miters ; after which I was presented to kisse 
 his toe, that is, his embroder'd slipper, two Cardinals holding up his 
 vest and surplice, and then being sufficiently bless'd with his thumb and 
 two fingers for that day, I return'd home to dinner. 
 
 We went againe to see the medails of Sig r Gotefredi, which are ab- 
 solutely the best collection in Rome. 
 
 Passing the Ludovisia Villa, where the petrified human figure lies, 
 found on the snowy Alps ; I measured the Hidra, and found it not a 
 foot long; the three necks and 15 heads seeme to be but patch'd up 
 with several pieces of serpents skins. 
 
 5 May. We tooke coach, and went 15 miles out of the Cittie to 
 Frascati, formerly Tusculanum, a villa of Card 1 Aldobrandini, built 
 for a country-house, but surpassing, in my opinion, the most delicious 
 places I ever beheld for its situation, elegance, plentifull water, groves, 
 ascents, and prospects. Just behind the palace (w ch is of excellent 
 architecture) in the center of y e inclosure rises an high hill or moun- 
 taine all over clad with tall wood, and so form'd by nature as if it had 
 been cut out by art, from the sum'it whereof falls a cascade, seeming 
 rather a greate river than a streame precipitating into a large theater 
 of water, representing an exact and perfect rainebow when the sun 
 shines out. Under this is made an artificiall grott, wherein are curious 
 rocks, hydraulic organs, and all sorts of singing birds moving and chirp- 
 ing by force of the water, with severall other pageants and surprising 
 inventions. In the center of one of these roomes rises a coper ball that 
 continually daunces about 3 foote above the pavement by virtue of a 
 wind conveved secretely to a hole beneath it ; with manv other devices 
 
FRASCATI. 1#45.] 167 
 
 to wett the unwary spectators, so that one can hardly step without 
 wetting , to the skin. In one of these theaters of water is an Atlas 
 spouting up the streame to a very great height ; and another monster 
 makes a terrible roaring with an horn; but above all, the representation 
 of a storm is most natural], with such fury of raine, wind, and thunder, 
 as one would imagine ones self in some extreame tempest. The garden 
 has excellent walkes and shady groves, abundance of rare fruit, oranges, 
 lemons, &c. and the goodly prospect of Rome, above all description, so 
 as I do not wonder that Cicero and others have celebrated this place 
 with such encomiums. The palace is indeed built more like a cabinet 
 than any thing compos'd of stone and mortar; it has in the middle a 
 hall furnish'd with excellent marbles and rare pictures, especially those 
 of Gioseppi d'Arpino ; the moveables are princely and rich. This was 
 the last piece of architecture finished by Giacomo de la Porta, who built 
 it for Pietro Card 1 Aldobrandini in the time of Clement VIII.* 
 
 We went hence to another house and garden not far distant, on the 
 side of a hill called Mondragone, finish'd by Card 1 Scipio Borghese, an 
 ample and kingly edifice. It has a verv long galerie, and at the end a 
 theater for pastimes, spacious courts, rare grotts, vineyards, olive 
 grounds, groves, and solitudes. The aire is so fresh and sweete, as 
 few parts of Italy exceed it ; nor is it inferior to any palace in the cittie 
 itselfe for statues, pictures, and furniture ; but it growing late we could 
 not take such particular notice of these things as they deserv'd. 
 
 6 May. We rested ourselves ; and next day in a coach tooke our 
 last farewell of visiting the circumjacent places, going to Tivoli or the 
 old Tyhurtine. At about 6 miles from Rome we passe the Teverone, 
 a bridge built by Mammea y e mother of Severus, and so by divers an- 
 cient sepulchres, amongst others that of Valerius Volusi ; and neere it 
 passe the stinking sulphurous river over the Ponte Lucano, where we 
 found an heape or turret full of inscriptions, now call'd the Tomb of 
 Plautius. Arriv'd at Tivoli we went first to see the Palace d'Este 
 erected on a plaine, but where was formerly an hill. The palace is very 
 
 * Cardinal Hippolito Aldobrandini was elected Pope in January 1592 by the name of Clement 
 VIII. and died in March 1605. 
 
168 [tivoli. 1645- 
 
 ample and stately. In the garden on the right hand are 16 vast 
 conchas of marble jetting out waters ; in the midst of these stands a 
 Janus quadrifrons, y l cast forth 4 girandolas, call'd from the resemblance 
 £to a particular exhibition in fireworks so named]] the Fontana di 
 Speccho [looking-glass.]] Neere this is a place for tilting. Before 
 the ascent of y e palace is the famous fountaine of Leda, and not far 
 from that 4 sweete and delicious gardens. Descending thence are two 
 pyramids of water, and in a grove of trees neere it the fountaines of 
 Tethys, Esculapius, Arethusa, Pandora, Pomona, and Flora ; then the 
 prancing Pegasus, Bacchus, the Grott of Venus, the two Colosses of 
 Melicerta, and Sibylla Tibertina, all of exquisite marble, coper, and 
 other suitable adornements. The Cupids pouring out water are espe- 
 cial v most rare, and the urnes on which are plac'd the 10 nymphs. 
 The Grotts are richly pav'd w th Pietra Commessa, shells, corall, &c. 
 
 Towards Roma Triumphans leades a long and spacious walk, full of 
 fountaines, under which is historized the whole Ovidian Metamorphosis 
 in rarely sculptur'd mezzo relievo. At the end of this, next the wall, is 
 y e Cittie of Rome as it was in its beauty, of small models, representing 
 that Cittie, with its Amphitheaters, Naumachia, Thermae, Temples, 
 Arches, Aqueducts, Streetes, and other magnificences, with a little 
 streame running thro' it for the Tyber, gushing out of an urne next the 
 statue of y e river. In another garden is a noble aviarie, the birds arti- 
 ficial, and singing till an owle appeures, on which they suddainly change 
 their notes. Near this is the fountaine of Dragons casting out large 
 streames of water with great noises. In another Grotto called Grotto 
 di Natara, is an hydraulic organ ; and below this are divers stews and 
 fish-pounds, in one of which is the statue of Neptune in hfs chariot on 
 a sea-horse, in another a Triton ; and lastly a garden of simples. There 
 are besides in the palace many rare statues and pictures, bedsteds richly 
 inlaied, and sundry other precious moveables ; the whole is said to have 
 cost the best part of a million. Having gratified our curiositie with 
 these artificial miracles, and din'd, we went to see the so famous natural 
 precipice and cascade of the river Anio, rushing down from the moun- 
 taines of Tivoli, with that fury that, what with the mist it perpetualy 
 casts up by the breaking of the water against the rocks, and what with 
 
HOME. 1645 •] 
 
 169 
 
 the sun shining on it and forming a natural Iris, the prodigious depth 
 of the gulph below, it is enough to astonish one that lookes on it. Upon 
 the sum'ite of this rock stand the ruines and some pillars and cornishes 
 of the temple of Sibylla Tybertina, or Albunea, a round fabric, still disco- 
 vering some of its pristine beauty. Here was a greate deal of gunpowder 
 drying in the sun, and a little beneath, mills belonging to the Pope. 
 
 And now we returned to Rome. By the way we were shew'd at some 
 distance the citty Prseneste, and the Hadrian Villa, now onely an heape 
 of ruines, and so came late to our lodging. 
 . We now determined to desist from visiting any more curiosities, ex- 
 cept what should happen to come in our way when my companion 
 Mr. Henshaw and myself should go to take the aire : onely I may not 
 omit that one afternoone, diverting ourselves in the Piazza Navona, a 
 Montebank there to allure curious strangers, taking off a ring from 
 his ringer, w ch seemed set Math a dull, darke stone, a little swelling 
 out, like w t we call (tho' untruly) a toadstone, and wetting his finger a 
 little in his mouth and then touching it, it emitted a luculent flame as 
 bright and large as a small wax candle ; then blowing it out, he re- 
 peated this several times. I have much regretted that I did not pur- 
 chase the receipt of him for making that composition at what price 
 soever; for tho' there is a processe in Jo. Baptista Porta and others 
 how to do it, yet on severall trials they none of them have succeeded. 
 
 Amongst other observations I made in Rome are these : As to Coins 
 and Medails, 10 hisses make the Roman Denarius, 5 the Quinarius, 
 10 Denarii an Aureus; which accompt runs almost exactly w th what 
 is now in use of Quatrini, Baiocs, Julios, and Scudi, each exceeding 
 the other in the proportion of ten. The Sestertius was a small silver 
 coyne marked h. s. or rather ll s , valu'd 2 pound and half of silver, 
 viz. 250 Denarii, about 25 golden Ducati. The stamp of the Roman 
 Denarius varied, having sometimes a Janus bifrons, the head of Roma 
 armed, or with a charriot and two horses, which were call'd Bigi; if 
 with 4, Quadrigi; if with a Victoria, so nam'd. The marke of the 
 Denarius was distinguished & thus, or X ; the Quinarius of halfe 
 value, had on one side y e head of Rome and V, the reverse Castor and 
 Pollux on horseback, inscribed Roma, &c. 
 
 vol. 1. z 
 
170 
 
 [ROME. 1645. 
 
 I observ'd that in the Greek Church they made the signe of the 
 Crosse from the right hand to the left ; contrary to the Latines and the 
 Schismatic Greekes ; gave the benediction with the first, second, and 
 little finger stretched out, retaining the third bent down, expressing a 
 distance of the third Person of the Holy Trinity from the first two. 
 
 For sculptors and architects we found Bernini and Algardi were in 
 the greatest esteeme : Fiamingo as a statuary, who made the Andrea 
 in St. Peter's, and is said to have died madd because it was placed in 
 an ill light. Amongst the painters, Antonio de la Cornea, who has 
 such an addresse of counterfeiting the hands of the ancient masters so 
 well as to make his copies passe for originals ; Pietro de Cortone, Mons r 
 Poussine a Frenchman, and innumerable more. Fioravanti for armour, 
 plate, dead life, tapistry, &e. The chiefe masters of music, after 
 Marc Antonio the best trebble, is Cavalier Lauretto an eunuch ; the 
 next Card. Bichi's eunuch, Bianchi tenor, and Nicholai base. The 
 Jewes in Rome wore red hatts til the Card, of Lions, being short- 
 sighted, lately saluted one of them thinking him to be a Cardinal as 
 he pass'd by his coach ; on which an order was made that they should 
 use only the yellow colour. There was now at Rome one Mrs. Ward, 
 an English devotee, who much solicited for an Order of Jesuitesses. 
 
 At executions I saw one, a gentleman, hang'd in his cloak and hatt 
 for murder. They struck the malefactor w th a club y* first stunn'd him, 
 and then cut his throat. At Naples they use a frame, like ours at 
 Halifax (a guillotine). 
 
 It is reported that Rome has ben once no lesse than 50 miles in com- 
 pass, now not 13, containing in it 3000 Churches and Chapells, Mo- 
 nasteries, &c. It is divided into 14 Regions or Wards ; has J Moun- 
 taines, and as many Campi or Vally's ; in these are faire Parks or Gar- 
 dens call'd Villas, being onely places of recesse and pleasure, at some 
 distance from the streetes, yet within the walls. 
 
 The Bills of Exchange I tooke up from my first entering Italy till I 
 went from Rome amounted but to 616 ducati di Banco, though I pur- 
 chas'd many books, pictures, and curiosities. 
 
 18 May. I intended to have seen Loretto, but being disappointed 
 of monies long expected, I was fore'd to returne by the same way I 
 
ITALY. 1645.] 
 
 came, desiring, if possible, to be at Venice by the Ascension, and 
 therefore I diverted to take Legorne in the way, as well to furnish me 
 w th credit by a merchant there, as to take order for transporting such 
 collections as I had made at Rome. When on my way, turning about 
 to behold this once and yet glorious Citty, from an eminence, I did not 
 without some regret give it my last farewell. 
 
 Having taken leave of our friends at Rome, where I had sojourn'd 
 now about 7 moneths, Autumn, Winter, and Spring, I tooke coach in 
 company with two courteous Italian Gentlemen. In the afternoone we 
 ariv'd at an house, or rather castle, belonging to the Duke of Parma, 
 called Caprarola*, situate on the brow of an hill that overlooks a little 
 town, or rather a naturall and stupendous rock ; witnesse those vast 
 caves serving now for cellarage, where we were entertain'd w ,h most ge- 
 nerous wine of severall sorts, being just under the foundation. The 
 Palace was built by y e famous Architect Vignola at the cost of Card 1 
 Alex r . Farnese, in forme of an octagone, the court in the middle being 
 exactly round, so as rather to resemble a fort or castle ; yet the cham- 
 bers within are all of them square, which makes the walls exceeding 
 thick. One of these rooms is so artificialy contriv'd that from the two 
 opposite angles one may hear the least whisper ; they say any perfect 
 square dos it. Most of the paintings are by Zuccari. It has a stately 
 entrie, on which spouts an artificiall fountaine within the porch. The 
 hall, chapell, and great number of lodging chambers are remarkable, 
 but most of all the pictures and witty inventions of Hannibal Caracci ; 
 the dead Christ is incomparable. Behind are the gardens full of statues 
 and noble fountaines, especialy that of the Shepherds. After din'er 
 we tooke horse, and lay that night at Montrosso, 20 miles from Rome. 
 
 19 May. We dined at Viterbo, and lay at St. Laurenzo. Next day 
 at Radicofani, and slept at Turnera. 
 
 21. We dined at Sienna, where we could not passe admiring the 
 greate Church f built intirely both within and without with white and 
 black marble in polish'd squares, by Macarino, shewing so beautifull 
 
 * Caprarola. There is a large descriptive account published of this Palace, with magnificent 
 plates of the buildings, pictures, and statues. f See p. 86*. 
 
172 
 
 [ITALY. 1645- 
 
 after a showre has fall'n. The floore within is various colour'd mar- 
 bles, representing the storie of both Testaments admirably wrought. 
 Here lies Pius the Second. The Bibliothec is painted by P. Perugino 
 and Raphael. The life of JEneas Sylvius is in fresco ; in the middle 
 are the 3 Graces of antiq marble, very curious, and the front of this 
 building, tho' Gotic, is yet very fine. Amongst other things they shew 
 St. Catharine's disciplining Cell, the doore whereof is half cut out into 
 chipps by the pilgrimes and devotees, being of deale wood. 
 
 Setting out hence for Pisa, we went againe to see the Domo in which 
 the Emperor Henry VII. lies buried, poyson'd by a Monk in the Eu- 
 charist. The bending Tower was built by Busqueto Delichio, a Gre- 
 cian architect, and is a stupendious piece of art *. In the gallery of 
 curiosities is a faire mummy ; the taile of a sea horse ; corall growing 
 on a man's skull ; a chariot automaton ; two pieces of rock chrystall, 
 in one of which is a drop of water, in the other three or foure small 
 wormes ; two embalm'd children ; divers petrifactions, &c. The gar- 
 den of simples is well furnish'd, and has in it the deadly yew or taocus 
 of the ancients ; w ch Dr. Bellueccio, the superintendant, affirmes that 
 his workmen cannot endure to clip for above the space of halfe an houre 
 at a time, from the paine of the head which surprizes them. 
 
 We went hence for Ligorne by coach, where I took up 90 crownes 
 for the rest of my journey, w th letters of credit for Venice, after I had 
 sufficiently complain'd of my defeate of correspondence at Rome. 
 
 The next day I came to Lucca, a small but pretty territorie and state 
 of itselfe. — The Citty is neate and well fortified, with noble and plea- 
 sant walkes of trees on the workes, where the gentry and ladies use to 
 take the aire. 'Tis situate on an ample plaine by the river Serchio, yet 
 the countrv about it is hilly. The Senat-house is magnificent. The 
 Church of St. Michael is a noble piece, as is also St. Fredian, more 
 remarkable to us for the corpse of St. Richard, an English King f, who 
 died here in his pilgrimage towards Rome. This epitaph is on his tomb : 
 
 * See pp. 78, 82, for other bending towers at Pisa and Florence. 
 
 f Who this Richard King of England was, it is impossible to say ; the tomb still exists, and has 
 long been a crux to Antiquaries and Travellers. — Editor. 
 
LUCCA. 1()45.] 
 
 1/3 
 
 Hie rex Richardus requiescit, sceptifer, almus: 
 Rex fuit Anglorum, regnum tenet iste polorum. 
 Regnum demisit pro Christo cuncta reliquit. 
 Ergo Richardum nobis dedit Anglia sanctum. 
 Hie genitor Sanctae Wulburgee Virginis almae 
 Est Vrillebaldi sancti simul et Vinebaldi, 
 Suffragium quorum nobis det regna Polorum. 
 
 Next this we visited St. Crosses, an excellent structure, all of marble 
 both without and within, and so adorn'd as may vie with many of the 
 fairest even in Rome ; witness the huge Crosse valued at ^.15,000, 
 above all venerable for that sacred volto which (as tradition goes) was 
 miraculously put on the image of Christ, and made by Nicodemus, 
 whilst the artist, finishing the rest of the body, was meditating what 
 face to set on it. The inhabitants are exceedingly civill to strangers, 
 above all places in Italy, and they speake y e purest Italian. 'Tis also 
 cheape living, which causes travellers to set up their rest here more 
 than in Florence, tho' a more celebrated Citty ; besides, the ladys here 
 are very conversable, and the religious women not at all reserv'd ; of 
 these we bought gloves and embroidred stomachers generaly worn by 
 gentlemen in these countries. The circuit of this state is but two easy 
 days journey, and lies mixed with the Duke of Tuscany's, but having 
 Spain for a Protector (tho' the least bigotted of all Roman Catholics), 
 and being one of the best fortify'd Citties in Italy, it remains in peace. 
 This whole country abounds in excellent olives, &c. 
 
 Going hence for Florence, we dined at Pistoia, where besides one 
 church there was little observable : onely in the highway we crossed 
 a rivulet of salt water tho' many miles from the sea. The country is 
 extreamly pleasant, full of gardens, and the roads straight as a line for 
 the best part of that whole day, the hedges planted with trees at equal 
 distances, watered with cleare and plentifull streames. 
 
 Rising early the next morning we alighted at Poggio Imperiale, 
 being a Palace of the Greate Duke, not far from y e Citty, having omitted 
 it in my passage to Rome. The ascent to the house is by a stately 
 gallery as it were of talle and overgrown cypresse trees for neere half a 
 mile. At the enterance of these ranges are placed statues of the Tvber 
 and Arno, of marble 5 those also of Virgil, Ovid, Petrarch, and Dante. 
 
174 
 
 [FLORENCE. 1^4 5 
 
 The building is sumptuous and curiously furnish'd within with cabinets 
 of Pietra Commessa in tables, pavements, &c. which is a magnificence 
 or work particularly affected at Florence. The larger pictures are, Adam 
 and Eve by Albert Durer, very excellent ; as is y 1 piece of carving in 
 wood by the same hand standing in a cupboard. Here is painted the 
 whole Austrian line ; the Duke's Mother, sister to the Emperor, the 
 foundresse of this Palace, than which there is none in Italy that I had 
 seene more magnificently adorn'd or furnish'd. 
 
 We could not omit in our passage to revisit the same and other curio- 
 sities which we had omitted at our first being at Florence. We went 
 therefore to see the famous piece of Andrea del Sarto in y e Annunciata; 
 the storie is, that the Painter in a time of dearth borrow'd a sack of 
 corne of the religious of that convent, and repayment being demanded, 
 he wrought it out in this picture, which represents Joseph sitting on a 
 sack of corn and reading to the B. Virgin ; a piece infinitely valued. 
 There fell down in the Cloister an old man's face painted on the wall in 
 fresco, greately esteem'd, and brake into crumbs ; the Duke sent his 
 best painters to make another instead of it, but none of them would 
 presume to touch a pencil where Andrea had wrought, like another 
 Apelles ; but one of them was so industrious and patient, that, picking 
 up the fragments, he laied and fastned them so artificial) 7 together, that 
 the injury it had received was hardly discernable. Andrea del Sarto 
 lies buried in the same place. Here is also that picture of Bartolomeo, 
 who having spent his utmost skill in y e face of y e Angel Gabriel, and 
 being troubl'd that he could not exceede it in the Virgin, he began the 
 body and to finish the clothes, and so left it, minding in y e morning to 
 work on the face ; but when he came, no sooner had he drawn away 
 the cloth that was hung before it to preserve it from y e dust, than an 
 admirable and ravishing face was found ready painted, at which miracle 
 all the Citty came in to worship ; 'tis now kept in y e Chapell of y e Sa- 
 lutation, a place so enrich'd by the devotees that none in Italy save 
 Loretto is said to exceede it. This picture is always cover'd with 3 
 shutters, one of which is of massie silver ; methinks it is very brown, 
 the forehead and cheekes whiter, as if it had ben scraped. They report 
 that those who have the honour of seeing it never lose their sight — 
 
FLORENCE. 1645-] 
 
 175 
 
 happy then we ! There is belonging to this Church a world of plate, 
 some whole statues of it, and lamps innumerable, besides the costly 
 vowes hung up, some of gold, and a cabinet of precious stones. 
 
 Visiting the Duke's repository againe, we told at least 40 ranks of 
 porphyry and other statues, and 28 whole figures, many rare paintings 
 and relievo's, 2 square columns w ,h trophies. In one of y e galleries 
 24 figures and 50 antiq heads ; a Bacchus of M. Angelo, and one ot 
 Bandinelli ; a head of Bernini, and a most lovely Cupid of Parian 
 marble; at the further end, two admirable women sitting, and a man 
 fighting w th a Centaur ; 3 figures in little of Andrea ; an huge candle- 
 stick of amber ; a table of Titian's painting, and another representing 
 God y e Father sitting in the aire on the 4 Evangelists ; animals ; divers 
 smaller pieces of Raphael ; a piece of pure virgin gold as big as an egg. 
 In the third chamber of rarities is the square cabinet valued at 80,000 
 crownes, shewing on every front a variety of curious work ; one of 
 birds and flowers of Pietra Commessa; one, a descent from the crosse, 
 of M. Angelo ; on the third our Bl. Saviour and the Apostles, of amber; 
 and on the 4 th a crucifix of y e same. 'Twixt the pictures two naked 
 Venus s by Titian ; Adam and Eve by Durer ; and severall pieces of 
 Pordenone and del Frate. There is a globe of 6 foote diameter. In 
 the Armourie were an entire elk, a crocodile, and amongst y e harnesse 
 several targets and antiq horse armes, as that of Cha. V. Two set with 
 turcoises and other precious stones ; a horse's taile of a wonderfull length. 
 Then passing the Old Palace, which has a very greate hall for feasts 
 and comedies, the roofe rarely painted, and the side walls with 6 very 
 large pictures representing batailes, the worke of Gio. Vassari. Here 
 is a magazine full of plate ; a harnesse of emeralds ; the furnitures of 
 an altar 4 foote high and six in length, of massy gold; in the middle is 
 placed the statue of Cosmo II. the bass relievo's of precious stones, his 
 breeches cover'd w th diamonds ; the mouldings of this statue, and other 
 ornaments, festoons, &c. are garnish'd with jewells and great pearls, 
 dedicated to St. Charles, with this inscription in rubies : 
 
 Cosimus Secundus Dei gratia Magnus Dux Etruriae, ex voto. 
 There is also a King on horseback of massy gold 2 foote high, and an 
 infinity of such like rartiies. Looking at the Justice in copper, set up 
 
176 
 
 [FLORENCE. 1645- 
 
 on a column by Cosmo in 1555 after y e victory over Sienna, we were 
 told that when the Duke asking a Gentleman how he liked the piece, 
 he answered that he liked it very well, but that it stood too high for 
 poore men to come at it. 
 
 Prince Leopold lias in this Citty a very excellent collection of paint- 
 ings, especialy a St. Catherine of P. Veroneze; a Venus of marble, veiled 
 from the middle to y e feete, esteem'd to be of y l Greeke workman who 
 made the Venus at the Medici's Palace in Rome, altogether as good, 
 and better preserved, an inestimable statue, not long since found about 
 Bologna. 
 
 Sig r Gaddi is a letter'd person, and has divers rarities, statues and 
 pictures of the best masters, and one bust of marble as much esteem'd 
 as the most antiq in Italy, and many curious manuscripts ; his best 
 paintings are, a Virgin of del Sarto, mention'd by Vassari, a St. John 
 by Raphael, and an Ecce Homo by Titian. 
 
 The Hall of the Academie de la Crusca is hung about with impresses 
 and devices painted, all of them relating to come sifted from the brann; 
 the seates are made like bread baskets and other rustic instruments us'd 
 about wheate, and the cushions of satin, like sacks. 
 
 We took our farewell of St. Laurence, more particularly noticing that 
 piece of the Resurrection, which consists of a prodigious number of 
 naked figures, the work of Pontarno. On the left hand is the Martyr- 
 dom of St. Laurence by Bronzini, rarely painted indeed. In a Chapell 
 is the tomb of Pietro di Medici and his brother John, of coper, excel- 
 lently designed, standing on 2 lions' feete which end in foliage, the 
 work of M. Angelo. Over against this are sepulchres of all the ducal 
 family. The altar has a statue of the Virgin giving suck, and two 
 Apostles. Paulus Jovius has the honour to be buried in the cloister. 
 Behind the quire is the superb chapell of Ferdinand I. consisting of 
 eight faces, foure plaine, foure a little hollovv'd, in the other are to be 
 y e sepulchres and a niche of paragon for the statue of the Prince now 
 living, all of coper gilt ; above is a large table of porphyrie for an 
 inscription for the Duke in letters of jasper. The whole Chapell, walls ? 
 pavement, and roofe are full of precious stones united with y e mouldings, 
 which are also of gilded coper, and so are the bases and capitals of the 
 
FLORENCE, 1645-] 
 
 177 
 
 columns. The tabernacle with y e whole altar is inlaid with cornelians, 
 lazuli, serpentine, achats, onyxes, &c. On the other side are 6 very 
 large columns of rock chrystal, 8 figures of precious stones of several 
 colours, inlayed in natural figures not inferior to y e best paintings, 
 amongst which are many pearls, diamonds, amethysts, topazes, sump- 
 tuous and sparkling beyond description. The windows without side are 
 of white marble. The library is the architecture of Raphael ; before y? 
 port is a square vestibule of excellent art, of all y e orders without con- 
 fusion ; the ascent to it from the library is excellent. We number'd 
 88 shelves, all MSS. and bound in red, chain'd ; in all about 3500 
 volumes, as they told us. 
 
 The Arsenal has sufficient to arme 70,000 men, accurately preserv'd 
 and kept, with divers lusty pieces of ordinance, whereof one is for a 
 ball of 300 pounds weight, and another for 160 which weighs / 2,500 
 pounds. 
 
 When I was at Florence the celebrated masters were, for Pietra 
 Commessa (a kind of mosaiq or inlaying of various colour'd marble, 
 and other more precious stones) Dominico Benetti and Mazzotti ; the 
 best statuarie, Vincentio Brochi ; painter, Pietro Beretino di Cortona. 
 This statuary makes those small statues in plaster and pasteboard w cb 
 so resemble coper, that till one handles them they cannot be distin- 
 guish'd, he has so rare an art of bronzing them. I bought 4 of him. 
 
 This Duke has a daily tribute for every courtezan or prostitute allowed 
 to practice that infamous trade in his dominions, and so has his holi- 
 nesse y e Pope, but not so much in value. 
 
 Taking leave of our two jolly companions Sig 1 Giovanni and his fel- 
 low, we tooke horses for Bologna, and by the way alighted at a villa 
 of the Grand Duke's called Patroline. The house is a square of 4 pavi- 
 lions, with a faire platform about it, balustred with stone, situate in 
 a large meadow, ascending like an amphitheater, having at the bottom 
 a huge rock with water running in a small channell like a cascade ; 
 on y' other side are y l gardens. The whole place seems consecrated to 
 pleasure and summer retirement. The inside of the palace may com- 
 pare with any in Italy for furniture of tapistry, beds, &c. and the gar- 
 dens are delicious and full of fountaines. In the grove sits Pan feeding 
 
 vol. i. 2 a 
 
178 
 
 [PRATOLINE. 1645. 
 
 his flock, the water making a melodious sound through his pipe ; and 
 an Hercules whose club yields a shower of water which falling into a 
 greate shell has a naked woman riding on the backs of dolphins. In 
 another grotto is Vulcan and his family, the walls richly compos'd of 
 corals, shells, coper, and marble figures, with the hunting of severall 
 beasts, moving by y e force of water. Here, having ben well washed 
 for our curiosity, we went down a large walke, at the sides whereof 
 several slender streams of water gush out of pipes concealed underneath, 
 that interchangeably fall into each others channells, making a lofty and 
 perfect arch, so that a man on horseback may ride under it and not 
 receive one drop of wet. This canopy or arch of water, I thought one 
 of the most surprising magnificencies I had ever seene, and very refresh- 
 ing in the heate of the sum'er. At the end of this very long walk 
 stands a woman in white marble, in posture of a laundress wringing 
 water out of a piece of linen, very naturally formed, into a vast lavor 
 the work and invention of M. Angelo Buonarotti. Hence we ascended 
 Mount Parnassus, where the Muses plaied to us on hydraulic organs. 
 Neere this is a greate aviarie. All these waters came from the rock in 
 y e garden, on which is the statue of a gvant representing the Apen- 
 nines, at the foote of which stands this villa. Last of all we came to 
 y e labyrinth in which a huge colosse of Jupiter throws out a streame 
 over the garden. This is 50 foote in height, having in his body a 
 square chamber, his eyes and mouth serving for windows and dore. 
 
 We tooke horse and supped that night at II Ponte, passing a dread- 
 full ridge of the Apennines, in many places capped w th snow, which 
 covers them the whole sum'er. We then descended into a luxurious 
 and rich plaine. The next day we passed through Scarperia, mounting 
 the hills againe where the passage is so strait and precipitous towards 
 the right hand that we climbed them with much care and danger ; 
 lodging at Fiorenzuolo, which is a fort built amongst the rocks and 
 defending the confines of the greate Duke's territories. 
 
 The next day we passed by the Pietra Mala, a burning mountaine. 
 At the sum'it of this prodigious masse of hills we had an unpleasant 
 way to Pianura, where we slept that night and were cntertain'd w th 
 excellent wine. Hence to Scargalasino ; and to bed at Loiano. This 
 plaine begins about six miles from Bologna. 
 
BOLOGNA. 1645.] 
 
 179 
 
 This towne belongs to the Pope, and is a famous University, situate 
 in one of the richest spots of Europe for all sorts of provisions. 'Tis 
 built like a ship, whereof the Torre d'Asinello may go for the main- 
 mast. The Citty is of no greate strength, having a trifling wall 
 about it, In circuit neere 5 miles, and 2 in length. This Torre d'Asinello, 
 ascended by 447 steps of a foote rise, seems exceedingly high, is very 
 narrow, and the more conspicuous from another tower call'd Garisenda 
 so artificially built of brick (which increases the wonder) that it seems 
 ready to fall : 'tis not now so high as the other, but they say the upper 
 part was formerly taken down for feare it should really fall and do 
 mischief. 
 
 Next we went to see an imperfect Church cal'd St. Petronius, shew- 
 ing y e intent of the founder had he gon on. From this our guide led 
 us to y e Schooles, which indeede are very magnificent. Thence to St. 
 Dominic's, where that saint's body lies richly inshrin'd. The stalls, or 
 seates of this goodly church have the historie of the Bible inlaied w th 
 severall woods very curiously don, the work of one Fr. Damiano di 
 Bergomo and a frier of that order. Amongst other reliques they shew 
 the two bookes of Esdras written with his own hand. Here lie buried 
 Jac. Andreas and divers other learn'd persons. To the Church joynes 
 the Convent, in y e quadrangle whereof are old cypresses, said to have 
 been planted by their Saint. 
 
 Then we went to the Palace of the Legat, a faire brick building, 
 as are most of the houses and buildings for the whole towne, full of 
 excellent carving and mouldings, so as nothing in stone seemes to be 
 better finish'd or more ornamentall ; witnesse those excellent columns 
 to be seene in many of their churches, convents, and publiq buildings, 
 for the whole towne is so cloyster'd that one may passe from house to 
 house through the streetes without being expos'd either to raine or sun. 
 
 Before y e stately hall of this Palace stands the statue of Paule IV. 
 and divers others ; also y e monument of the coronation of Charles V. 
 The Piazza before it is the most stately in Italy, St. Mark's at Venice 
 onely excepted. In the center of it is a fountain of Neptune, a noble 
 figure in coper. Here I saw a Persian walking about in a very rich 
 vest of cloth of tissue, and severall other ornaments, according to the 
 
180 
 
 [bologna. 1645. 
 
 fashion of his country, which much pleased me ; he was a young hand- 
 som person, of the most stately mien. 
 
 I would faine have seene the Library of St. Saviour's, famous for y e 
 number of rare manuscripts, but could not, so we went to St. Francis's, 
 a glorious pile and exceedingly adorn'd within. 
 
 After dinner I enquired out a priest and Dr. Montalbano, to whom 
 I brought recom'endations from Rome ; this was he who invented or 
 found out the composition of the lapis illuminabilis, or phosphorus. 
 He shew'd me their property (for he had severall), being to retaine y e 
 light of the sun for some competent time, by a kind of imbibition, by a 
 particular way of calcination. Some of these presented a blew colour 
 like the flame of brimstone, others like coals of a kitchen fire. The 
 rest of the afternoone was taken up in St. Michael in Bosco, built on 
 a steepe hill on the edge of y e Citty, for its fabrick, pleasant shade 
 and groves, cellars, dormitory, and prospects, one of the most delicious 
 retirements I ever saw, art and nature contending which shall exceede ; 
 so as till now I never envied the life of a frier. The whole towne and 
 country to a vast extent are under com'and of their eyes, almost as far as 
 Venice itselfe. In this Convent there are many excellent paintings of 
 Guido Rheni, above all, the little cloister of 8 faces painted by Carracci 
 in fresco. The carvings in wood in the sacristy are admirable, as 
 is the inlay'd work about y e Chapell, which even emulates the best 
 paintings, the work is so delicate and tender. The paintings of St. 
 Saviour are of Carracci and Leonardo, and there are excellent things 
 of Raphael which we could not see. 
 
 In the Church of St. John is a fine piece of St. Cecilia by Raphael. 
 As to other paintings, there is in the Church of St. Gregorie an excel- 
 lent picture of a Bishop giving the habit of St. Bernard to an arm'd 
 souldier, with severall other figures in the piece, the work of Guerchino. 
 Indeede this Citty is full of rare pieces, especialy of Guido, Domenico, 
 and a virgin named Isabella Sirani, now living, who has painted many 
 excellent pieces, and imitates Guido so well that many skilfull artists 
 have been deceived. 
 
 At the Mendicants are the Miracles of St. Eloy by Rheni, after the 
 manner of Caravagio, but better ; and here they shew'd us that famous 
 
BOLOGNA. 1645-] 181 
 
 piece of Christ calling St. Matthew, by Hannibal Carracci. The Mar- 
 ques Magniani has y e whole freeze of his Hall painted in fresco by the 
 same hand. 
 
 Many of the religious men here nourish those lap-dogs which the 
 ladies are so fond of, and which they here sell. They are a pigmy sort 
 of spaniels, whose noses they break when puppies, which in my opinion 
 deforms them. 
 
 At the end of the turning in one of the wings of the dormitorie of 
 St. Michael I found a paper pasted neere the window, containing the 
 dimensions of most of the famous Churches in Italy compar'd with their 
 Toures here, and the length of this Gallery, a copy whereof I tooke. 
 
 
 
 Braccia *. 
 
 Piedi di Bolognia. 
 
 Cana di Roma. 
 
 St. Pietro di Roma, longo 
 
 
 284 
 
 473 
 
 84 
 
 Cupola del niurro, alta 
 
 
 210 
 
 350 
 
 60 
 
 Torre d'Asinello, alto 
 
 
 208^ 
 
 348 
 
 59pr. mi 6 
 
 Dormitorio de St. Mich, a 
 
 Bologn. 
 
 
 longo — — 
 
 
 254 
 
 423 
 
 n\ 
 
 From hence being brought to a subterranean territorie of cellars, the 
 courteous Friars made us taste a variety of excellent wines, and so we 
 departed to our Inn. 
 
 This Citty is famous also for sausages ; and here is sold greate quan- 
 tities of Parmegiano cheese, with Botargo, Caviare, &c. which makes 
 some of their shops perfume y e streetes with no agreeable smell. We 
 furnish'd ourselves with wash-balls, the best being made here, and 
 being a considerable commodity. This place has also been famous for 
 lutes made by the old masters, Mollen, Hans Frey, and Nicholas 
 Sconvelt, which were of extraordinary price ; the workmen were cheifly 
 Germans. The cattle used for draught in this country (which is very 
 rich and fertile, especialy in pasturage) are cover'd with housings of 
 linnen fring'd at the bottome, that dangle about them, preserving them 
 from flyes, w ch in sum'er are very troublesome. 
 
 From this pleasant Citty we went now towards Ferrara, carrying 
 with us a bulletino or bill of health, (customary in all these parts of 
 
 * A measure of half an ell. 
 
182 [ferrara. 1645. 
 
 Italy, especialy in the State of Venice,) and so put ourselves into a 
 boate that was tow'd with horses, often interrupted by the sluices (in- 
 ventions there to raise the water for the use of mills, and to fill the ar- 
 tificial canalls) at every of which we stayed till passage was made. We 
 went by y e Castle Bentivoglio, and about night ariv'd at an ugly inn 
 call'd Mai Albergo, agreeable to its name, whence, after we had supp'd, 
 we embark'd and pass'd that night thro' the Fenns, where we were so 
 pestered with those flying glow-worms called Luccioli, that one who 
 had never heard of them would think the Country full of sparks of fire ; 
 beating some of them downe, and applying them to a book, I could 
 reade in the dark by y e light they afforded. 
 
 Quitting our boate we took coach, and by morning got to Ferrara, 
 where, before we could gain entrance, our gunns and armes were taken 
 from us of custom, the lock being taken off before as we were advis'd. 
 The Citty is in a low marshy country, and therefore well fortified. The 
 houses and streetes have nothing of beauty, except the Palace and 
 Church of St. Benedict, where Ariosto lies buried ; and there are some 
 good statues, the Palazzo del Diamante, Citadel, Church of St. 
 Dominico. The Market-place is very spacious, having in its center the 
 figure of Nicholao Olilo, once Duke of Ferrara, on horseback, in coper. 
 It is in a word a dirty towne, and tho' the streetes be large they re- 
 maine ill pav'd ; yet it is an University, and now belongs to the Pope. 
 Tho' there are not many fine houses in y e Citty, the inn where we 
 lodg'd was a very noble palace, having an Angel for its sign. 
 
 We parted from hence about 3 in y e afternoone, and went some of 
 our way on yf Chanell, and then imbark'd on the Po, or Padus, by the 
 poets called Eridanus, where they faine Phaeton to have fallen after 
 his rash attempt, and where Io was metamorphos'd into a cow. There 
 was in our company, amongst others, a Polonian Bishop, who was 
 exceeding civill to me in this passage, and afterwards did me many 
 kindnesses at Venice. We supp'd this night at a place called Corbua, 
 neere the ruines of the ancient Citty Adria, which gives name to y e 
 Gulph, or Sea. After 3 miles, having passed 30 on the Po, we im- 
 barked in a stout vessell, and thro' an artificial chanell, very strait, we 
 eutred the Adice, which carried us by breake of day into y e Adriatic, 
 
VENICE. 1^45.] 
 
 and so sailing prosperously by Chioza, (a towne upon an island in this 
 Sea,) and Palestina, we came over against Malamocco, (the cheife 
 port and ankerage where our English merchantmen lie that trade to 
 Venice,) about J at night, after we had stayed at least 2 houres for 
 permission to land, our bill of health being deliver'd according to cos- 
 tome. So soone as we came on shore we were conducted to the Do- 
 gana, where our portmanteaus were visited, and then we got to our 
 lodging, which was at honest Sig r Paulo Rhodomante's at the Black 
 Eagle near the Rialto, one of the best quarters of the towne. This 
 journey from Rome to Venice cost me 7 pistoles and 13 julios. 
 
 June. The next morning, finding myself extreamly weary and 
 beaten with my journey, I went to one of their bagnios, where you are 
 treated after the Eastern manner, washing with hot and cold water, 
 with oyles, and being rubbed w th a kind of strigil of seal's-skin, put on 
 the operator's hand like a glove. This bath did so open my pores that 
 it cost me one of the greatest colds I ever had in my life, for want of 
 necessary caution in keeping myselfe warme for some time after ; for 
 coming out I im'ediately began to visit the famous places of the Citty ; 
 and Travellers who come into Italy do nothing but run up and downe to 
 see sights, and this Citty well deserved our admiration, being the most 
 wonderfully placed of any in the world, built on so many hundred 
 islands, in the very Sea, and at good distance from y e Continent. It 
 has no fresh water except what is reserv'd in cisterns from raine, and 
 such as is daily brought from ter?a Jirma in boates, yet there was no 
 want of it, and all sorts of excellent provisions were very cheape. 
 
 'Tis said that when the Huns overran Italy, some meane fishermen 
 and others left the maine land and fled for shelter to these despicable 
 and muddy islands, which in processe of time, by industry, are growne 
 to the greatnesse of one of the most considerable States, considered as 
 a Republic, and having now subsisted longer than any of the toure an- 
 cient Monarchies, flourishing in greate state, wealth, and glory, by 
 the conquest of greate territories in Italy, Dacia, Greece, Candy, 
 Rhodes, and Sclavonia, and at present challenging the empire of all 
 the Adriatiq Sea, which they yearly espouse by casting a gold ring 
 into it w tb greate pomp and ceremony on Ascension Day : the desire ot 
 seeing this was one of the reasons that hastened us from Rome. 
 
184 
 
 [VENICE. 1645. 
 
 The Doge, having heard masse in his robes of state (which are very 
 particular, after the Eastern fashion,) together with y e Senat in their 
 gownes, imbark'd in their gloriously painted, carved, and gilded Bu- 
 centora, inviron'd and follow'd by innumerable gallys, gondolas, and 
 boates, filled w th spectators, some dressed in masquerade, trumpets, 
 musiq, and canons ; having rowed about a league into y R Gulph, the 
 Duke at the prow casts a gold ring and cup into the Sea, at which a 
 loud acclamation is ecchoed from the greate guns of the Arsenal and at 
 the Liddo. We then return'd. 
 
 Two days after, taking a gondola, which is their water-coach (for 
 land-ones there are many old men in this Citty who never saw one, or 
 rarely a horse), we rowed up and downe the Channells, which answer 
 to our streetes. These vessells are built very long and narrow, having 
 necks and tailes of Steele, somewhat spreading at the beake like a 
 fishe's taile, and kept so exceedingly polish'd as to give a greate lustre ; 
 some are adorn'd with carving, others lined with velvet (commonly- 
 black), with curtains and tassells, and the seates like couches, to 
 lie stretch'd on, while he who rowes stands upright on the very edge 
 of the boate, and with one oare bending forward as if he would fall 
 into the Sea, rows and turnes with incredible dexterity ; thus passing 
 from channell to channell, landing his fare or patron at what house he 
 pleases. The beakes of these vessells are not unlike the ancient Roman 
 rostrums. 
 
 The first publiq building I went to see was the Rialto, a bridge of 
 one arch over the grand Canall, so large as to admit a gaily to row 
 under it, built of good marble, and having on it, besides many pretty 
 shops, three ample and stately passages for people without any incon- 
 venience, the two outmost nobly balustred with the same stone ; a piece 
 of Architecture much to he admir'd. It was evening, and the Canall 
 where the Noblesse go to take the air, as in our Hide-park, was full of 
 ladys and gentlemen. There are many times dangerous stops by reason 
 of the multitude of gondolas ready to sink one another ; and indeede 
 they affect to leane them on one side, that one w ho is not accostom'd 
 to it would be afraid of over-setting. Here they were singing, playing 
 on harpsicords and other musick, and serenading their mistresses ; in 
 
VENICE. 1645.] 
 
 185 
 
 another place racing and other pastimes on y c water, it being now ex- 
 ceeding hot. 
 
 Next day I went to their Exchange, a place like ours frequented by 
 merchants, but nothing so magnificent : from thence my guide led me 
 to the Fondigo di Todeschi, which is their magazine, and here many 
 of the merchants, especialy Germans, have their lodging and diet as in 
 a college. The outside of this stately fabric is painted by Giorgione da 
 Castelfranco, and Titian himselfe. 
 
 Hence I pass'd thro' the Merceria, which is one of the most deli- 
 cious streetes in the world for the sweetnesse of it, and is all the way 
 on both sides tapistred as it were with cloth of gold, rich damasks and 
 other silks, which the shops expose and hang before their houses from 
 y e first floore, and with that variety that for neere half y e yeare spent 
 eheifly in this Citty 1 hardly remember to have seene y c same piece 
 twice expos'd ; to this add the perfumes, apothecaries shops, and 
 the innumerable cages of nightingales which they keepe, that enter- 
 taine you with their melody from shop to shop, so that shutting 
 your eyes you would imagine yourselfe in the country, when indeede 
 you are in the middle of the Sea. It is almost as silent as the middle 
 
 J 
 
 of a field, there being neither rattling of coaches nor trampling of 
 horses. This streete, pav'd with brick and exceedingly cleane, brought 
 us thro' an arch into the famous Piazza of St. Marc. 
 
 Over this Porch stands that admirable Clock, celebrated next to 
 that of Strasburg for its many movements ; amongst which, about 12 
 and 6, which are their houres of Ave Maria when all the towne are 
 on their knees, come forth the 3 Kings led by a starr, and passing by 
 y e image of Christ in his Mother's armes do their reverence, and enter 
 into y e clock by another doore. At the top of this turret another auto- 
 maton strikes y e quarters ; an honest merchant told me that one day 
 walking in the Piazza, he saw the fellow who kept the Clock struck 
 with this hammer so forceably, as he was stooping his head neere the 
 bell to mend something amisse at the instant of striking, that being 
 stunn'd he reel'd over the battlements and broke his neck. The build- 
 ings in this Piazza are all arch'd, on pillars, pav'd within with black 
 and white polish'd marble even to the shops, the rest of the fabric as 
 
 vol. 1. 2 b 
 
186 [VENICE. 1645. 
 
 stately as any in Europ, being not only marble but the architecture is 
 of y e famous Sansovini, who lies buried in St. Jacomo at the end of 
 the Piazza. The battlements of this noble range of building are rail'd 
 with stone, and thick set with excellent statues, which add a great 
 ornament. One of y e sides is yet much more Roman-like than the 
 other which reguards the Sea, and where the Church is plac'd. The 
 other range is plainly Gotiq : and so we entred into St. Marc's Church, 
 before which stand two brasse piedestals exquisitely cast and figur'd, 
 which beare as many tall masts painted red, on which upon greate fes- 
 tivals they hang flags and streamers. The Church is alsoGotic; yet 
 for the preciousnese of the materials being of severall rich marbles, 
 aboundance of porphyrie, serpentine, Sec. far exceeding any in Rome, 
 St. Peter's hardly excepted. I much admired the splendid historie of 
 our B. Saviour compos'd all of Mosaic over the faciata, below which and 
 over the cheife gate are four horses cast in coper as big as the life, the 
 same that formerly were transported from Rome by Constantine to By- 
 zantium, and thence by the Venetians hither *. They are supported by 
 8 porphyrie columns of very great size and value. Being come into y e 
 Church, you see nothing, and tread on nothing, but what is precious. The 
 floore is all inlayed with achats, lazuli's, calcedons, jaspers, porphyries 
 and other rich marbles, admirable also for the work ; the walls sump- 
 tuously incrusted and presenting to y e imagination y e shapes of men, 
 birds, houses, flowers, and a thousand varieties. The roofe is of most 
 excellent Mosaic ; but what most persons admire is the new work of the 
 emblematic tree at the other passage out of the Church. In the midst 
 of this rich volto rise five cupolas, the middle very large and sustayn'd 
 by 36 marble columns, eight of which are of precious marbles : under 
 these cupolas is y e high altar, on which is a reliquarie of severall sorts 
 of jewells, engraven with figures after the Greeke maner, and set to- 
 gether w th plates of pure gold. The altar is cover'd with a canopy of 
 ophit, on which is sculptur'd the storie of the Bible, and so on the pil- 
 lars, w ch are of Parian marble, that support it. Behind these are four 
 other columns of transparent and true Oriental alabaster, brought hither 
 
 * They were taken away by Buonaparte to Paris, but in 1815 were sent back to Venice. Edit 
 
VENICE. 1645 ] 
 
 187 
 
 out of the mines of Solomon's Temple as they report. There are many 
 chapells and notable monuments of illustrious persons, Dukes, Cardi- 
 nals, &c. as Zeno, Jo. Soranzi, and others : there is likewise a vast 
 baptisterie of coper. Among other venerable reliques is a stone on 
 which they say our Blessed Lord stood preaching to those of Tyre and 
 Sidon, and neere the doore is an image of Christ, much ador'd, esteeming 
 it very sacred, for that a rude fellow striking it, they say, there gush'd 
 out a torrent of blood. In one of the corners lies the body of St. Isi- 
 dore, brought hither 500 years since from y e island of Chios. A little 
 farther they shew the picture of St. Dominic and Francis, affirm'd to 
 have ben made by the Abbot Joachim (many yeares before any of them 
 were born). Going out of the Church they shew'd us the stone where 
 Alexander III. trod on y e neck of y e Emperor Fred. Barbarossa, pro- 
 nouncing that verse of the psalm, " super basiliscum," &c. The dores 
 of y e Church are of massie coper. There are neere 500 pillars in this 
 building, most of them porphyrie and serpentine, and brought cheifly 
 from Athens and other parts of Greece formerly in their power. At 
 the corner of the Church are inserted into the maine wall four figures as 
 big as life cut in porphyrie, which they say are the images of four bro- 
 thers who poysoned one another, by which meanes there escheated to 
 y e Republiq that vast treasury of relicques now belonging to the Church. 
 At the other entrance that looks towards the Sea, stands in a small 
 chapell that statue of our Lady, made (as they afrirme) of the same 
 stone or rock out of which Moses brought water to the murmuring 
 Israelites at Horeb or Meriba. 
 
 After all that is said, this Church is in my opinion much too dark and 
 dismal, and of heavy work ; the fabric, as is much of Venice both for 
 buildings and other fashions and circumstances, after the Greekes, their 
 next neighboures. 
 
 The next day, by favour of the French Ambassador I had admittance 
 with him to see the Reliquary call'd here Tresoro di San Marco, which 
 very few even of travellers are admitted to see. It is a large chamber 
 full of presses. There are twelve breast-plates, or pieces of pure golden 
 armour studded with precious stones, and as many crownes dedicated to 
 S. Mark by so many noble Venetians who had recovered their wives 
 
188 [VENICE. 1645. 
 
 taken at sea by the Saracens; many curious vases of achats; the cap 
 or cornet of the Dukes of Venice, one of which had a rubie set on it 
 esteemed worth 200,000 crowries; two unicorns homes, numerous vasas 
 and dishes of achat set thick with precious stones and vast pearles ; 
 divers heads of Saints inchas'd in gold ; a small ampulla or glasse with 
 our Saviour's blood ; a greate morcell of the real crosse ; one of the 
 nailes ; a thorn ; a fragment of y e column to which our Lord was 
 bound when scourged ; the standard or ensigne of Constantine ; a piece 
 of St. Luke's anne ; a rib of St. Stephen ; a finger of Mary Magda- 
 lene ; numerous other things which I could not remember; but a priest, 
 first vesting himselfe in his sacerdotals with the stole about his neck, 
 shew'd us the Gospel of St. Mark (their tutelar patron) written by his 
 own hand, and whose body they shew buried in the Church, brought 
 hither from Alexandria many years ago. 
 
 The Religious de li Servi have fine paintings of P. Veroneze, espe- 
 cialy the Magdalen. 
 
 A French Gentleman and myself went to the Courts of Justice, the 
 Senate-house, and Ducal Palace. The first Court neere the Church is 
 almost wholly built of several colour'd sorts of marble, like chequer 
 work on the outside; this is sustain'd by vast pillars, not very shapely, 
 but observable for their capitals, and that out of thirty-three no two are 
 alike. Under this fabrick is the Cloyster where Merchants meete mor- 
 ning and evening, as also the grave Senitors and Gentlemen, to confer of 
 state afFaires in their gownes and caps like so many Philosophers; 'tis 
 a very noble and solemn spectacle. In another quadrangle stood two 
 square columns of white marble, carved, which they said had ben 
 erected to hang one of their Dukes on, who design'd to make himselfe 
 Soveraigne. Going through a stately arch there were standing in 
 niches divers statues of greate value, amongst which is the so celebrated 
 Eve, esteem'd worth its weight in gold ; it is just opposite to y c staires 
 where are two Colossus's of Mars and Neptune by Sansovino. We went 
 up into a Coridore built with several Tribunals and Courts of Justice ; 
 and by a well-contriv'd stair- case were landed in the Senate- hall, which 
 appears to be one of the most noble and spacious rooms in Europ, being 
 76 paces long and 32 in breadth. At the upper end are the Tribunals of 
 
/ 
 
 venice. 1645-] 189 
 
 the Doge, Council of Ten, and Assistants ; in the body of the hall are 
 lower ranks of seates capable of containing 1500 Senators, for they 
 consist of no fewer on grand debates. Over the Duke's throne are the 
 paintings of the Final Judgment by Tintoret, esteem'd amongst the 
 best pieces in Europe. On the roofe are the famous Acts of the Repub- 
 lick painted by severall excellent masters, especialy Bassano; next them 
 are the Effigies of the several Dukes, with their Elogies. Then we 
 turned into a great Court painted with the Ifattail of Lepanto, an ex- 
 cellent piece ; thence into the Chamber of the Council of Ten, painted 
 by the most celebrated masters. From hence, by the special favour of an 
 Illustrhsimo, we were carried to see the private Armorie of the Palace, 
 and so to the same Court we first enter'd, nobly built of polish'd white 
 marble, part of which is the Duke's Court pro tempore; there are two 
 wells adorn'd with excellent work in coper. This led us to the sea-side, 
 where stand those two columns of ophite stone in the intire piece, of a 
 greate height, one bearing St. Mark's Lion, the other St. Theodorus ; 
 these pillars were brought from Greece, and set up by Nic. Baraterius 
 the architect; betweene them publique executions are performed. 
 
 Having fed our eyes with the noble prospect of y e Island of St. George, 
 the gallies, gondolas, and other vessells passing to and fro, we walked 
 under the Cloyster on the other side of this goodly Piazza, being a 
 most magnificent building, the design of Sansovino. Here we went 
 into the Zecca.or Mint; at the entrance stand two prodigious Giants or 
 Hercules of white marble : we saw them melt, beate, and coyne silver, 
 gold, and coper. We then went up into the Procuratorie, and a Li- 
 brary of excellent MSS. and books belonging to it and the Publiq. 
 After this we climb'd up the Toure of St. Mark, which we might have 
 don on horseback, as 'tis said one of the French Kings did, there being- 
 no stayres or steps, but returnes that take up an entire square on the 
 arches 40 foote, broad enough for a coach. This Steeple stands by 
 itselfe without any Church neere it, and is rather a watch toure in the 
 corner of y e greate Piazza, 230 foote in height, the foundation exceeding 
 deepe ; on the top is an Angel y 1 turns w th y e wind, and from hence is 
 a prospect down the Adriatic as far as Istria and the Dalmatian side, 
 with the surprizing sight of this miraculous Citty, which lies in the 
 
190 [VENICE. 1645. 
 
 bosome of the sea, in the shape of a lute, the numberless Islands tacked 
 together by no fewer than 450 bridges. At the foote of this Toure is a 
 public tribunal of excellent work in white marble polish'd, adorn'd with 
 several brasse statues and figures of stone in mezzo relievo, the worke 
 of some rare artist. 
 
 It was now Ascension Weeke, and the greate Mart or Faire of y e 
 whole yeare was now kept, every body at liberty and jollie. The noble- 
 men stalking with their ladys on choppines ; these are high-heel'd 
 shoes, particularly affected by these proude dames, or, as some say, 
 invented to keepe them at home, it being very difficult to walke with 
 them ; whence one being asked how he liked the Venetian dames, re- 
 plied, that they were mezzo came, mezzo ligno, half flesh, half wood, 
 and he would have none of them. The truth is, their garb is very odd, 
 as seeming allwayes in masquerade ; their other habits also totaly dif- 
 ferent from all nations. They weare very long crisped haire, of severall 
 strakes and colours, which they make so by a wash, dischevelling it on 
 the brims of a broade hat that has no head, but an hole to put out their 
 heads by ; they drie them in the sunn, as one may see them at their 
 windows. In their tire they set silk flowers and sparkling stones, their 
 peticoates coming from their very arme-pits, so that they are neere 
 three quarters and an half apron; their sleeves are made exceeding 
 wide, under which their shift sleeves as wide, and commonly tucked up 
 to the shoulder, shewing their naked armes, thro' false sleeves of tiffany, 
 girt with a bracelet or two, with knots of points richly tagged about 
 their shoulders and other places of their body, which they usually cover 
 with a kind of yellow vaile of lawn very transparent. Thus attir'd thev 
 set their hands on the heads of two matron-like servants or old women, 
 to support them, who are mumbling their beades. 'Tis ridiculous to 
 see how these ladys crawle in and out of their gondolas by reason of 
 their choppines, and what dwarfs they appeare when taken down from 
 their wooden scaffolds; of these I saw near thirty together, stalking 
 halfe as high again as the rest of the world, for courtezans or the citi- 
 zens may not weare clioppines, but cover their bodies and faces with 
 a vaile of a certaine glittering taffeta or lustree, out of which they now 
 and then dart a glaunce of their eye, the whole face being otherwise 
 
VENICE. 16*45.] 
 
 191 
 
 entirely hid with it ; nor may the com'on misses take this habit, but 
 go abroad barefac'd. To the corners of these virgin-vailes hang broad 
 but flat tossells of curious Point de Venize: the married women <ro in 
 black vailes. The nobility weare the same colour, but of fine cloth 
 lin'd w th taffeta in Summer, with fur of the bellies of squirrells in y e 
 Winter, which all put on at a certaine day girt with a girdle emboss'd 
 with silver ; the vest not much different from what our Bachelors of 
 Arts weare in Oxford, and a hood of cloth made like a sack, cast over 
 their left shoulder, and a round cloth black cap fring'd with wool which 
 is not so comely ; they also weare their collar open to shew the diamond 
 button of the stock of their shirt. I have never seene pearle for colour 
 and bignesse comparable to what the ladys wear, most of the noble 
 families being very rich in jewells, especialy pearles, which are always 
 left to the son or brother who is destined to marry, which the eldest 
 seldome do. The Doge's vest is of crimson velvet, the Procurator's, 
 &c. of damasc, very stately. Nor was I lesse surprised with the strange 
 variety of y e severall nations which were seen every day in the streetes 
 and piazzas ; Jews, Turks, Armenians, Persians, Moores, Greekes, 
 Sclavonians, some with their targets, and boucklers, and all in their 
 native fashions, negotiating in this famous Emporium, which is allways 
 crowded with strangers. 
 
 This night, having with my Lord Bruce taken our places before, we 
 went to the Opera where comedies and other plays are represented in 
 recitative musiq by the most excellent musicians vocal and instrumental, 
 with variety of sceanes painted and contrived with no lesse art of per- 
 spective, arid machines for flying in the aire, and other wonderfull 
 motions; taken together it is one of the most magnificent and expensive 
 diversions the wit of man can invent. The history was, Hercules in 
 Lydia ; the sceanes changed thirteen times. The famous voices, Anna 
 Rencia, a Roman, and reputed the best treble of women ; but there was 
 an eunuch who in my opinion surpass'd her ; also a Genoeze that sung 
 an incomparable base. This held us by y e eyes and eares till two in the 
 morning, when we went to the Chetto de san Felice, to see the noble- 
 men and their ladies at Basset, a game at cards which is much used, 
 but they play not in public, and all that have inclination to it are irv 
 
192 
 
 [PADUA. 1645. 
 
 masquerade, without speaking one word, and so they come in, play, 
 loose or gaine, and go away as they please. This time of licence is 
 onely in Carnival and this Ascension Weeke; neither are their Theaters 
 open for that other magnificence or for ordinary comedians save on 
 these solemnities, they being a frugal and wise people and exact ob- 
 servers of all sumptuarie laws. 
 
 There being at this time a ship hound for the Holy Land, I had re- 
 solved to imbark, intending to see Jerusalem and other parts of Syria, 
 Egypt, and Turkey ; but after I had provided all necessaries, laid in 
 snow to coole our drink, bought some sheepe, poultry, biscuit, spirits, 
 and a little cabinet of drouggs in case of sickness, our vessell (whereoff 
 Capt. Powell was master) happen'd to be press'd for the service of the 
 State to carry provisions to Candia, now newly attacqued by the Turkes, 
 which altogether frustrated my designe, to my greate mortification. 
 
 On the . . . June we went to Padua, to the Faire of their St. Anthony, 
 in company of divers passengers. The first terra Jirma we landed at 
 was Fusina, being onely an inn, where we changed our barge and 
 were then drawne up by horses thro' the river Brenta, a strait chanell 
 as even as a line for 20 miles, the country on both sides deliciously 
 adorned with country villas and gentlemen's retirements, gardens 
 planted with oranges, figs, and other fruit, belonging to y e Venetians. 
 At one of these villas we went ashore to see a pretty contriv'd Palace. 
 Observable in this passage was buying their water of those who farme 
 the sluices, for this artificial river is in some places so shallow that 
 reserves of water are kept with sluices, which they open and shut with 
 a most ingenious invention or engine, govern'd even by a child. Thus 
 they keep up the water or let it go, till the next channell be either 
 filled by the stop, or abated to the levell, of the other, for which every 
 boate pays a certaine dutie. Thus we stay'd neere halfe an houre and 
 more at three severall places, so as it was evening before we got to Padoa. 
 This is a very ancient Cittie if the tradition of Antenor's being the founder 
 be not a fiction; but thus speakes the inscription over a stately gate : 
 
 Hanc antiquissimam uvbem literarum omnium asylum, cujus agrum ferti- 
 litatis Lumen Natura esse voluit, Antenor condidit an'o ante Christum natum 
 M.Cxviii, Senatus autem Venetus his belli propugnandis ornavit. 
 
PADUA. 1645.] 
 
 193 
 
 The towne stands on the river Padus, whence its name, and is gene- 
 rally built like Bologna on arches and on brick, so that one may walk 
 all round it, dry, and in the shade, w ch is very convenient in these hot 
 countries, and I think I was never sensible of so burning a heate as I 
 was this season, especialy the next day, which was that of y e Faire, 
 fill'd with noble Venetians by reason of a greate and solemn procession 
 to their famous Cathedral. Passing by St. Lorenzo 1 met with this 
 inscription : 
 
 Inclytus Antenor patriam vox nisa quietem * 
 Transtulit hue Henetum Dardanidumq; fuga, 
 
 Expulit Euganeos, Patavinam condidit urbem, 
 Quern tegit hie humili marmore caesadomus. 
 
 Under the tomb was a cobler at his work. Being now come to St. 
 Antonies (the streete most of y e way strait, well built, and outsides 
 excellently painted m fresco) we survey'd the spacious piazza, in which 
 is erected a noble statue of coper of a man on horseback, in memorie 
 of one Catta Malata a renowned captaine. The Church a la Greca 
 consists of five handsome cupolas leaded. At the left hand within is 
 the tomb of St. Anthony and his altar, about w ch a mezzo relievo of 
 the miracles ascrib'd to him is exquisitely wrought in white marble by 
 the three famous sculptors Tullius Lombardus, Jacobus Sansovinus, 
 and Hieron. Compagno. A little higher is the quire, wall'd parapet 
 fashion with sundry colour'd stone halfe relievo, the work of Andrea 
 Reccij. The altar within is of the same metall, which with the candle- 
 stick and bases is in my opinion as magnificent as any in Italy. The 
 wainscot of the quire is rarely inlayed and carved. Here are the se- 
 pulchres of many famous persons, as of Rodolphus Fulgosi, &c. and 
 among the rest one that for an exploit at sea has a gaily exquisitely 
 carved thereon. The Procession bore the banners with all the treasure 
 of the cloysler, which was a very fine sight. 
 
 Hence walking over the Prato delle Valle, I went to see y e Convent 
 of St. Justina's, than w ch I never beheld one more magnificent. The 
 
 * Keysler very justly observes that the first line of this inscription conveys no meaning. 
 Vol. III. p. 2-20. 
 
 f Lassells calls him Gatta Mela, the Venetian General, nicknamed Gata, because of his watch- 
 fulness, p. 429. 
 
 VOL. I. 2 c 
 
194 
 
 [PADUA. 1645. 
 
 Church is an excellent piece of architecture of Andrea Palladio, richly 
 pav'd, with a stately cupola that covers the high altar inshrining the 
 ashes of y t Saint. It is of Pietra Commessa, consisting of flowers very 
 naturally don. The quire is inlay'd with severall sorts of wood repre- 
 senting the holy history, fmish'd with exceeding industry. At the far 
 end is that rare painting of St. Justinas martyrdom hy P. Veronese ; 
 and a stone on w ch they told us divers primitive Christians had hen 
 decapitated. In another place (to w ch leads a small cloister well 
 painted) is a dry well cover'd with a brasse-work grate wherein are the 
 bones of divers martyrs. They shew also the bones of St. Luke in an 
 old alabaster coffin ; three of the Holy Innocents ; and y e bodys of St. 
 Maximus and Prosdocimus *. The Dormitory above is exceeding com- 
 modious and stately, but what most pleas'd me was the old cloyster so 
 well painted with the legendarie Saints, mingled with many ancient 
 inscriptions, and pieces of urnes dug up it seemes at the foundation of 
 the Church. Thus having spent the day in rambles, I return'd the 
 next day to Venice. 
 
 The Arsenal is thought to be one of y c best furnish'd in y e world. 
 We entred by a strong port always guarded, and ascending a spacious 
 gallery saw armes of back, breast, and head, for many thousands; in 
 another were saddles, over them ensignes taken from the Turks. An- 
 other Hall is for the meeting of the Senat ; passing a graff are the 
 smiths forges, where they are continualy at work on ankers and iron 
 work. Neere it is a well of fresh water, which they impute to two 
 rhinoceros's horns which they say lie in it and will preserve it from 
 ever being empoison'd. Then we came to where the carpenters were 
 building their magazines of oares, masts, &c. for an hundred gallys and 
 ships, which have all their aparell and furniture neere them. Then 
 the founderie, where they cast ordinance ; the forge is 450 paces long, 
 and one of them has thirteen furnaces. There is one cannon weighing 
 16,573 lbs. cast whilst Henry the Third dined, and put into a gaily 
 built, rigg'd, and fitted for launching within that time. They have 
 also armes for 12 galeasses, w rh are vessells to rowe, of almost 150 
 
 * St. Peter's disciple, first Bishop of Padua. Lassells, p. 430. 
 
vemce. 16'45-] J 95 
 
 foote long and 30 wide, not counting prow or poop, and contain 28 
 banks of oares, each J men, and to carry 1300 men, with 3 masts. 
 In another a magazin for 50 gallys, and place for some hundreds more. 
 Here stands the Bucentaur, with a most ample deck, and so contriv'd 
 that the slaves are not seene, having on the poop a throne for the Doge 
 to sit, when he gos in triumph to espouse the Adriatic. Here is also a 
 gallery of 200 yards long for cables, and over that a magazine of hemp. 
 Over against these are their saltpetre houses, and a large row of cells 
 or houses to protect their gallies from y e weather. Over the gate as 
 we go out, is a roome full of greate and small guns, some of which 
 discharge six times at once. Then there is a court full of can'on, bul- 
 lets, chaines, grapples, granados, &c. and over that armes for 800,000 
 men, and by themselves armes for 400 taken from some that were in a 
 plot against the State ; together with weapons of offence and defence 
 for 62 ships ; 32 pieces of ordnance on carriages taken from the Turks, 
 and one prodigious mortar-piece. In a word, 'tis not to be reckoned 
 up what this large place containes of this sort. There were now 23 
 gallys, and 4 gally-grossi of 100 oares of a side. The whole Arsenal is 
 wall'd about and may be in compasse about 3 miles, with 12 towres for 
 y c watch, besides y* the sea invirons it. The workmen, who are ordi- 
 narily 500, march out in military order, and every evening receive their 
 pay thro' a small hole in y e gate where the Governor lives. 
 
 The next day I saw a wretch executed who had murther'd his master, 
 for w ch he had his head chop'd off by an axe y* slid down a frame of 
 timber*, between the two tall columns in St. Mark's Piazza at the sea 
 brink ; the executioner striking on the axe with a beatle, and so the 
 head fell off the block. 
 
 Hence by Gudala we went to see Grimani's Palace, the portico 
 whereof is excellent work. Indeed the world cannot shew a Citty of 
 more stately buildings considering the extent of it, all of square stone, 
 and as chargeable in their foundations, as superstructure, being all built 
 on piles at an immense cost. We return'd home by the Church of St. 
 Johanne and Paulo, before which is in coper the statue of Bartolomeo 
 
 * The maiden at Halifax, in Yorkshire, and the guillotine in France. 
 
196 
 
 [VENICE. K)4.t- 
 
 Colone on horseback, double gilt, on a stately pedestal, the work of 
 And. Verrochio, a Florentine. This is a very fine Church, and has in 
 it many rare altar pieces of y e best masters, especialy that on the left 
 hand of y e Two Friers slaine, which is of Titian. 
 
 The day after, being Sunday, I went over to St. George's to y e cere- 
 monie of y e schismatic Greekes, who are permitted to have their 
 Church, tho' thev are at defiance with Rome. Thev allow no carved 
 images, but many painted, especialy the story of their patron and his 
 dragon. Their rites differ not much from the Latines, save that of 
 communicating in both species, and distribution of the holy bread. 
 We afterwards fell into dispute with a Candiot concerning the proces- 
 sion of y e Holy Ghost. The Church is a noble fabric. 
 
 The Church of St. Zachary is of Greeke building, by Leo y e 4th 
 Emp. and has in it the bones of that prophet with divers other Saints. 
 Neere this we visited St. Luke's, famous for the tomb of Aretine *. 
 
 Tuesday we visited severall other Churches, as S ta Maria, newly in- 
 crusted with marble on the outside, and adorned \v th porphyrie, ophit, 
 and Spartan stone. Neere the altar and under y c organ are sculptures, 
 that are said to be of the famous artist Praxiteles. To that of St. Paul 
 I went purposely to see the tomb of Titian. Then to St. John the 
 Evangelist, where amongst other heroes lies Andr. Baldarius, the in- 
 ventor of oares applied to greate vessells for fighting. 
 
 We also saw St. Roch, the roofe whereof is, with the school or hall 
 of that rich confraternity, admirably painted by Tintoret, especialy the 
 Crucifix in y e sacristia. We saw also y e Church of St. Sebastian, and 
 Carmelites monasterie. 
 
 Next day taking our gondola at St. Mark's, I pass'd to y e Island of 
 St. George Maggiore, where is a Convent of Benedictines, and a well 
 built Church by Andrea Palladio, the greate architect. The pave- 
 ment, cupola, choire, and pictures, very rich and sumptuous. The 
 
 * This epitaph has been made for this Satyrist and Atlieist : 
 
 Here lies the man who no man spared, 
 
 When the angry fit was on him ; 
 Nor God himself had better fared, 
 
 If Aretine had known him. 
 
PADUA. lf)4.>] 
 
 197 
 
 cloyster has a fine garden to it, which is a rare thing at Venice, tho 
 this is an island a little distant from y e Cittie ; it has also an olive- 
 orchard all inviron'd by the sea. The new cloyster now building has a 
 noble stayrecase pav'd w th white and black marble. 
 
 From hence we visited St. Spirito and St. Laurence, faire Churches 
 in severall islands ; but most remarkable is that of y c Padri Olivetani 
 in St. Helen's island, for the rare paintings and carvings, w tb inlay 'd 
 work, &c. 
 
 The next morning we went againe to Padoa, where next day we 
 visited y e market, which is plentifully furnish'd and exceedingly cheape. 
 Here we saw y e greate hall, built in a spacious piazza, and one of y c 
 most magnificent in Europe ; its ascent is by steps a good height, of 
 a reddish marble polish'd, much us'd in these parts and happly found 
 not far off ; 'tis almost 200 paces long and 40 in breadth, all cover'd 
 w th lead, without any support of columns. At y e further end stands the 
 bust in white marble of Titus Livius the historian. In this town is the 
 house wherein he was borne, full of inscriptions and pretty faire. 
 
 Neere to the monument of Speron Speronii, is painted on y e cieling 
 the celestial zodiaq and other astronomical figures ; without side there 
 is a corridor in manner of a balcony, of the same stone ; and at the 
 entrie of each of the three gates is the head of some famous person, as 
 Albert Eremitano, Jul. Paullo (lawyers), and Peter Aponius. In the 
 piazza is the Podesta and Capitano Grande's Palace, well built ; but 
 above all the Monte Pieta, the front whereof is of most excellent archi- 
 tecture ; this is a foundation of which there is one in most of the Citties 
 in Italy, where there is a continual banq of mony to assist y e poorer sort, 
 on any pawn, and at reasonable interest, together w th magazines for 
 deposit of goods till redeemed. 
 
 Hence to y° Scholes of this flourishing and ancient University, espe- 
 cialy for y e studie of physic and anatomic They are fairly built in qua- 
 drangle, with cloysters beneath, and above w th columns. Over the greate 
 gate are the armes of y e Venetian State, and under y e lion of St. Marc : 
 
 "Sic ingredere ut teipso quotidie doctior; sic egredere ut indies Patriae 
 Christianaeq; Reipublicae utilior evadas ; ita demum Gymnasium a te feliciter 
 ornatum existimabit: cio.ix." 
 
 ( 
 
198 
 
 [PADUA. l()45' 
 
 About y e court walls are carv'd in stone and painted the blazons of 
 the Consuls of all the nations that from time to time have had that 
 charge and honor in the Universitie, which at my being there was my 
 worthy friend Dr. Rogers, who here tooke that degree. 
 
 The scholes for y e lectures of the severall sciences are above, but none 
 of them comparable, or so much frequented as the theatre for anatomie, 
 which is excellently contriv'd both for the dissector and spectators. I 
 was this day invited to dinner, and in the afternoone (being 30 July) 
 received my Matricula, being resolved to spend some moneths here at 
 study, especialy physic and anatomie, of both which there was now the 
 most famous professors in Europe. My Matricula contained a clause, 
 that I, my goods, servants, and messengers, should be free from all 
 toll and reprises, and that we might come, pass, return, buy or sell, 
 without any toll, &c. 
 
 The next morning I went to see y e Garden of Simples, rarely fur- 
 nish'd w th plants, and gave order to y e gardener to make me a collection 
 of them for an /tortus hyemalis, by permission of y e Cavalier Dr. Vest- 
 lingius, then Prefect and Botanic Professor as well as of Anatomie. 
 
 Next morning the Earle of Arundel*, now in this Citty, a famous 
 collector of paintings and antiquities, invited me to go with him to see 
 y e Garden of Mantua, where as one enters stands a huge colosse of 
 Hercules. From hence to a place where was a roome cover'd w th a 
 noble cupola, built purposely for musiq ; the fillings up, or cove 'twixt 
 the walls were of urnes and earthen pots for y e better sounding; it was 
 also well painted. After dinner we walked to y e Palace of Foscari all' 
 Arena, there remaining yet some appearances of an ancient theater, 
 tho' serving now for a court onely before y e house. There were now 
 kept in it two eagles, a crane, a Mauritanian sheepe, a stag, and sundry 
 foules, as in a vivarie. 
 
 Three days after, I return'd to Venice, and pass'd over to Murano, 
 tamous for y e best glasses of the world, where having viewed their 
 furnaces and seene their work, 1 made a collection of divers curiosities 
 
 * The celebrated Thomas Earl of Arundel, part of whose collection was eventually {procured 
 for the University of Oxford by Mr. Evelyn, and is distinguished by the name of Marmora 
 Arundellana. 
 
VENICE. 1645 j 
 
 199 
 
 and glasses, which 1 sent for England by long sea. 'Tis the white 
 flints w cl ' they have from Pavia, which they pound and sift exceedingly 
 small and mix with ashes made of a sea-weede brought out of Syria, 
 and a white sand, that causes this manufacture to excell. The Towne 
 is a Podestaria by itselfe, at some miles distant on y e sea from Venice, 
 and like it built upon severall small islands. In this place are excellent 
 oysters, small and well tasted like our Colchester, and they were the 
 first, as I remember, that I ever could eate, for I had naturally an 
 aversion to them. 
 
 At our returne to Venice we met several gondolas full of Venetian 
 ladys, who come thus far in fine weather to take the aire, with musiq 
 and other refreshments. Besides that Murano is itselfe a very nobly 
 built Towne, and has divers noblemen's palaces in it and handsome 
 gardens. 
 
 In coming back we saw y e Hands of St. Christopher and St. Michael, 
 the last of which has a Church inrich'd and incrusted with marbles and 
 other architectonic ornaments, which the Monkes very courteously 
 shew'd us. It was built and founded by Margaret iEmiliana of Verona, 
 a famous courtezan, who purchased a greate estate, and by this founda- 
 tion hoped to commute for her sins. We then rowed by y e lies of 
 St. Nicholas, whose Church with the monuments of the Justinian 
 family entertain'd us awhile; and then got home. 
 
 The next morning Capt. Powell, in whose ship 1 was to embark 
 towards Turkey, invited me on board, lying about 10 miles from Venice, 
 where we had a dinner of English pouder'd beefe and other good meate 
 with store of wine and greate gunns, as the manner is. After dinner 
 the Captaine presented me with a stone he lately brought from Grand 
 Cairo, which he tooke from the Mummy-pitts, full of hieroglyphics ; 
 1 drew it on paper with the true dimensions, and sent it in a letter to 
 Mr. Henshaw to com'unicate to Father Kircher, who was then setting 
 forth his greate work Obeliscus Pamphilius, where it is described, but 
 without mentioning my name. The stone was afterwards brought for 
 me into England and landed at Wapping, where before I could heare 
 of it, it was broken into severall fragments and utterly defaced, to my no 
 small disappointment. 
 
200 
 
 [VENICE. ltf45- 
 
 The boats waine of y e ship also gave me a hand and foote of a 
 mummy, the nailes whereof had been overlaid with thin plates of gold, 
 and the whole body was perfect when he brought it out of Egypt, but 
 y e avarice of y e ship's crue broke it to pieces and divided the body 
 among them. He presented me also with two Egyptian idols, and 
 some loaves of y e bread which the Coptics use in y e Holy Sacrament, 
 with other curiosities. 
 
 8 August. I had newes from Padoa of my election to be Syndicus 
 Artist arum, which caused me after two days idling in a country villa 
 with y e Consul of Venice, to hasten thither, that I might discharge my 
 selfe of that honour, because it was not only chargeable, but would have 
 hindred my progresse, and they chose a Dutch gentleman in my place, 
 which did not well please my countrymen, who had labour'd not a 
 little to do me the greatest honour a stranger is capable of in that 
 Universitie. Being freed from this impediment, and having taken 
 leave of Dr. Janiciu6, a Polonian, who was going physician in y e 
 Venetian gallys to Candy, I went againe to Venice, and made a col- 
 lection of severall books and some toys. Three days after, I return'd 
 to Padoa, where I studied hard till the arival of Mr. Henshaw, Bram- 
 stone, and some other English gentlemen whom I had left at Rome, 
 and who made me go back with them to Venice, where I spent some 
 time in shewing them what I had seene there. 
 
 26 Sept. My dear friend, and till now my constant fellow traveller, 
 Mr. Thicknesse, being obliged to returne to England upon his parti- 
 cular concerne, and who had served his Ma ty in the warrs, I accom- 
 panied him part of his way, and on the 28 th returned to Venice. 
 
 29. Michaelmas day, I went with my Lord Mowbray (eldest son to 
 the Earle of Arundell and a most worthy person) to see the collection 
 of a noble Venetian, Sign. Rugini. He has a stately Palace richly 
 furnish'd with statues and heads of Roman Emperors, all plac'd in an 
 ample roome. In the next was a cabinet of medals," both Latin and 
 Greek, with divers curious shells and two faire pearles in two of them ; 
 but above all he abounded in things petrified, wallnuts, eggs in which 
 y c ycalk rattl'd, a peare, a piece of beefe with y e bones in it, an whole 
 hedge-hog, a plaice on a wooden trencher turn'd into stone and very 
 
VENICE. 1645.] 
 
 201 
 
 perfect, charcoale, a morsel of cork yet retaining its levitie, sponges, 
 and a piece of taffety part roll'd up, with innumerable more. In 
 another cabinet supported by twelve pillars of Oriental achat and rail'd 
 about with chrystal, he shew'd us severall noble intaglias of achat, 
 especialy a head of Tiberius, a woman in a bath w th her dog, some rare 
 cornelians, onixes, chrystals, &c. in one of which was a drop of water 
 not congeal'd, but moving up and down when shaken ; above all, a 
 diamond which had a very faire rubie growing in it ; divers pieces of 
 amber wherein were several insects, in particular one cut like an heart 
 that contained in it a salamander without the least defect, and many 
 pieces of Mosaic. The fabriq of this cabinet was very ingenious, set 
 thick with achats, turquoises, and other precious stones, in the midst 
 of w ch was an antiq of a dog in stone scratching his eare, very rarely 
 cut and comparable to the greatest curiositie I had ever seene of that 
 kind for y e accuratenesse of the work. The next chamber had a bed- 
 stead all inlay 'd w th achats, chrystals, cornelians, lazuli, &c. esteemed 
 worth 16,000 crownes; but for y e most part y e bedsteads in Italy are 
 of forged iron gilded, since it is impossible to keepe the wooden ones 
 from y c chimices. 
 
 From hence I returned to Padoa, when that towne was so infested 
 w th souldiers that many houses were broken open in the night, some 
 murders comitted, and the nunns next our lodging disturb'd, so as 
 we were forc'd to be on our guard with pistols and other fire-armes to 
 defend our doores ; and indeede the students themselves take a barba- 
 rous liberty in the evenings when they go to their strumpets, to stop all 
 that passe by the house where any of their companions in folly are with 
 them ; this costome they call Chi vali, so as the streetes are very dan- 
 gerous when the evenings grow dark ; nor is it easy to reforme this 
 intolerable usage where there are so many strangers of severall nations. 
 
 Using to drink my wine cool'd w th snow and ice, as the manner 
 here is, I was so afflicted with an angina and soare-throat that it had 
 almost cost me my life. After all the remedies Cavalier Vestlingius, 
 cheife professor here, could apply, old Salvatico (that famous physi- 
 cian) being call'd, made me be cupp'd and scarified in the back in foure 
 places, which began to give me breath, and consequently life, for I was 
 
 VOL. . i. 2d 
 
202 
 
 [PADUA. 1645. 
 
 in y e utmost danger ; but God being mercifull to me, I was after a 
 fortnight abroad againe, when changing my lodging I went over 
 against Pozzo Pinto, where I bought for winter provision 3000 weight 
 of excellent grapes, and pressed my owne wine, which proved incompa- 
 rable liquor. 
 
 This was on 10 Oct. Soon after came to visite me from Venice 
 Mr. Henry Howard, grandchild to y e Earle of Arundel, Mr. Bramstone, 
 son to y e Lord Cheif Justice, and Mr. Henshaw, with whom I went 
 to another part of y e Citty to lodge neere St. Catherine's, over against 
 the Monasterie of Nunns, where we hired the whole house and lived 
 very nobly. Here I learned to play on y e theorba, taught by Sig. 
 Dominico Bassano, who had a daughter married to a Doctor of Laws, 
 that played and sung to nine severall instruments, with that skill and 
 addresse as few masters in Italy exceeded her ; she likewise compos'd 
 divers excellent pieces. I had never seene any play on the Naples viol 
 before. She presented me afterwards with two recitativos of hers, both 
 words and musiq. 
 
 31 Oct. Being my birth-day, the Nunns of St. Catharine's sent 
 me flowers of silk-work. We were very studious all this winter till 
 Christmas, when on twelfth day we invited all the English and 
 Scotts in towne to a feast, which sunk our excellent wine considerably. 
 
 1646. In January Sign. Molino was chosen Doge of Venice, but 
 the extreame snow that fell, and the cold, hindered my going to 
 see the solemnitv, so as I stirred not from Padoa till Shrovetide, 
 when all the world repaire to Venice to see the folly and madnesse of 
 the Carnevall; the women, men, and persons of all conditions disguising 
 themselves in antiq dresses, with extravagant musiq and a thousand 
 gambols, traversing the streetes from house to house, all places being 
 then accessible and free to enter. Abroad, they fling eggs fill'd with 
 sweete water, but sometimes not over sweete. They also have a bar- 
 barous costome of hunting bulls about y e streetes and piazzas, which is 
 very dangerous, the passages being generally narrow. The youth of 
 the severall wards and parishes contend in other masteries and pastimes, 
 so that 'tis impossible to recount the universal madnesse of this place 
 during this time of licence. The greate banks are set up for those who 
 
VENICE. ]646.] 
 
 203 
 
 will play at bassett ; the comedians have liberty, and the operas are 
 open ; witty pasquils are thrown about, and the mountebanks have 
 their stages at every corner. The diversion which cheifely tooke me up 
 was three noble operas, where were excellent voices and musiq, the 
 most celebrated of which was the famous Anna Renche, whom we 
 invited to a fish dinner after foure daies in Lent, when they had given 
 over at the theater. Accompanied with an eunuch whom she brought 
 with her, she entertain'd us with rare musiq, both of them singing to 
 an harpsichord. It growing late, a gentleman of Venice came for her 
 to shew her y e gallys, now ready to sayle for Candia. This entertain- 
 ment produced a second, given us by y e English Consul of y e mer- 
 chants, inviting us to his house, where he had the Genoeze, the most 
 celebrated base in Italy, who was one of the late opera band. This 
 diversion held us so late at night, that conveying a gentlewoman who 
 had supped with us to her gondola at the usual place of landing, we 
 were shot at by two carbines from out another gondola in which was 
 a noble Venetian and his courtezan unwilling to be disturb'd, which 
 made us run in and fetch other weapons, not knowing what the matter 
 was, till we were informed of the danger we might incur by pursuing 
 it farther. Three days after this I tooke my leave of Venice, and went 
 to Padoa to be present at the famous Anatomie Lecture, which is 
 here celebrated with extraordinary apparatus, lasting almost a whole 
 moneth. During this time I saw a woman, a child, and a man dis- 
 sected with all the manual operations of y c chirurgeon on the humane 
 body. The one was performed by Cavalier Vestlingius and Dr. Jo. 
 Athelsteinus Leonaenas, of whom I purchased those rare Tables of 
 Veines and Nerves, and caus'd him to prepare a third of y e Lungs, 
 Liver, and Nervi sexti par: w th y e Gastric Veines, which I sent into 
 England, and afterwards presented to the Royall Society, being the first 
 of that kind that had been seen there, and for aught I know in y u 
 world, tho' afterwards there were others. When y e Anatomie Lec- 
 tures, which were in y e mornings, were ended, I went to see cures don 
 in the Hospitals ; and certainly as there are y e greatest helps and the 
 most skilfull physitians, so there are the most miserable and deplorable 
 objects to exercise upon. Nor is there any, I should think, so power- 
 
204 [VENICE. 1646. 
 
 full an argum 1 against y e vice reigning in this licentious Country, as to 
 be spectator of the miserie these poore creatures undergo. They are 
 indeede very carefully attended, and with extraordinary charity. 
 
 20 March. I return'd to Venice, where I tooke leave of my friends. 
 
 22. I was invited to excellent English potted venison at Mr. Hobb- 
 son's, a worthy merchant. 
 
 23. I tooke my leave of the Patriarche and y e Prince of Wir- 
 temburg, and Mon\ Grotius (son of the learned Hugo) now going a 
 comander to Candia, and in the afternoone receiv'd of Vandervoort 
 my merchant, my bills of exchange of 300 ducats for my journey. 
 He shew'd me his rare collection of Italian books, esteem'd very 
 curious and of onood va i ue> 
 
 The next dav I was conducted to the Ghetta, where the Jewes 
 dwell together as in a tribe or ward, where I was present at a marriage. 
 The bride was clad in white, sitting in a lofty chaire, and cover'd with 
 a white vaile ; then two old Rabbies joyned them together, one of 
 them holding a glasse of wine in his hand, which in the midst of the 
 ceremony, pretending to deliver to y e woman, he let fall, the breaking 
 whereof was to signify the frailty of our nature, and that we must ex- 
 pect disasters and crosses amidst all enjoyments. This don, we had 
 a fine banquet, and were brought into y e bride-chamber, where the 
 bed was dress'd up w th flowers, and the counterpan strewed in workes. 
 At this ceremony we saw divers very beautifull Portuguez Jewesses, 
 with whom we had some conversation. 
 
 I went to y e Spanish Ambassador with Bonifacio his confessor, and 
 obtained his passe to serve me in the Spanish dominions, without which 
 I was not to travel, in this pompous form : 
 
 " Don Gaspar de Teves y Guzman, Marques de la Fuente, Senor Le Le- 
 rena y Verazuza, Comendador de Colos, en la Orden de Sant Yago, Alcalde 
 Mayor perpetuo y Escrivano Mayor de la Civdad de Sevilla, Gentilhombre de 
 la Camara de S. M. su Azemilero Mayor, de su Consejo, su Embaxador ex- 
 traordinario a los Principes de Italia, y Alemania, yaesta serenissima Repub- 
 lica de Venetia, &c. Haviendo de partir de esta Ciudad para La Milan el 
 Sig r Cavallero Evelyn Ingles, con un Criado, mi han pedido Passa-porte para 
 los Estatos de su M. Le he mandado dar el presente, firmado de mi mano, 
 
PADUA. 1646.] 
 
 205 
 
 y sellado con el sello de mis armas, por el qual encargo a todos los menestros 
 de S. M. antes quien le presentase y a los que no lo son, supplico les dare pas- 
 sar libramente sin permitir que se le haya vexacion alguna antes mandar le 
 las favor para continuar su viage. Fecho en Venecia a 24 del mes de Marzo 
 dell an'o l6*46\ Mar. de la Fuentes, &c." 
 
 Having pack'd up my purchases of books, pictures, castes, treacle, 
 &c. (the making and extraordinary ceremonie whereof I had ben cu- 
 rious to observe, for 'tis extremely pompous and worth seeing) I de- 
 parted from Venice, accompanied with Mr. Waller (the celebrated 
 Poet), now newly gotten out of England, after y e Parliament had ex- 
 treamely worried him for attempting to put in execution y e Commis- 
 sion of Aray, and for which the rest of his Collegues were hanged by 
 y e Rebells. 
 
 The next day I tooke leave of my comrades at Padoa, and receiving 
 some directions from Dr. Salvatico as to y e care of my health, I pre- 
 pared for my journey towards Milan. 
 
 It was Easter Monday that I was invited to breakfast at the Earle 
 of Arundel's*. I tooke my leave of him in his bed, where I left that 
 greate and excellent man in teares on some private discourse of crosses 
 that had befall'n his illustrious family, particularly the undutifull- 
 nesse of his Grandson Philip's turning Dominican Frier (since Car- 
 dinal of Norfolk), and the miserie of his Countrie now embroil'd in 
 civil war. He caus'd his Gentleman to give me directions, all written 
 with his owne hand, what curiosities I should enquire after in my 
 journey ; and so, enjoyning me to write sometimes to him, I departed. 
 There stayed for me below, Mr. Henry Howard (afterwards Duke of 
 Norfolk), Mr. J. Digby son of Sir Kenelm Digby, and other gentle- 
 men, who conducted me to the coach. 
 
 The famous Lapidaries of Venice for false stones and pastes so 
 as to emulate the best diamonds, rubies, &c. were Marco Terrasso and 
 Gilbert. 
 
 * Lassells, who travelled a short time after Mr. Evelyn, says, that the Earl died here, and that 
 his bowels are buried under a black marble stone, inscribed " Interiora Thomae Howard Comitis 
 Arondeliaj." p. 429. 
 
206 
 
 [VINCENZA. I646. 
 
 An Accompt of what Bills of Exchange I tooke up at Venice since 
 my coming from Rome, till my departure from Padoa : 
 
 11 Aug 1 1645 200 
 
 7 Sept. 135 
 
 1 Ocf ------- 100 
 
 15 Jan. 1646 100 
 
 23Aprill ------ 300 
 
 835 Ducati di Banco. 
 
 In company then with Mr. Waller, one Capt. Wray (son of S r 
 Christ 1- , whose father had hen in armes against his Ma tv , and therefore 
 by no meanes wellcome to us), with Mr. Abdy, a modest and learned 
 man, we got that night to Vincenza, passing by y e Euganean hills, 
 celebrated for the prospects and furniture of rare simples, which we 
 found growing about them. The wayes were something deepe, the 
 whole country flat and even as a bowling greene. The comon fields 
 lie square, and are orderly planted w th fruite trees which the vines run 
 upon and embrace for many miles, with delicious streames creeping 
 along the ranges. 
 
 Vincenza is a Citty in y e Marquisate of Treviso, yet appertaining 
 to y e Venetians, full of gentlemen and splendid palaces, to which y e 
 famous Palladio, borne here, has exceedingly contributed, as having 
 ben the architect. Most conspicuous is the Hall of Justice ; it has a 
 toure of excellent work ; the lower pillars are of the first order ; those 
 in the three upper corridors are Doric ; under them are shops in a spa- 
 cious piazza. The hall was built in imitation of that at Padoa, but of 
 a nobler designe, a la modema. The next morning we visited y e 
 Theater, as being of that kind the most perfect now standing, and 
 built by Palladio, in exact imitation of the ancient Romans, and ca- 
 pable of containing 5000 spectators. The sceane, w ch is all of stone, 
 represents an imperial citty, y c order Corinthian, decorated with sta- 
 tues. Over y e Scenario is inscribed, " Virtuti ac Genio Olympior: 
 Academia Theatrum hoc a fundamentis erexit Palladio Architect: 
 
VINCENZA. I646.] 
 
 207 
 
 1584." The sceane declines 11 foote, the suffito painted with cloudes. 
 To this there joynes a spacious Hall for sollemn days to ballot in, and 
 a second for the Academics. In y e Piazza is also the Podesta, or Go- 
 vernor's house, the faciata being of y e Corinthian order, very noble. 
 The Piazza itselfe is so large as to be capable of justs and tournaments, 
 the Nobility of this Citty being exceedingly addicted to this knight 
 errantry and other martial diversions. In this place are two pillars in 
 imitation of those at St. Marc's at Venice, bearing one of them a 
 winged lion, the other the statue of St. Jo. Baptist. 
 
 In a word, this sweete Towne has more well-built Palaces than any of 
 its dimensions in all Italy, besides a number begun and not yet finished 
 (but of stately designe) by reason of the domestic dissentions 'twixt 
 them and those of Brescia, fomented by y e sage Venetians least by 
 combining they might think of recovering their ancient liberty. For 
 this reason also are permitted those dissorders and insolences committed 
 at Padoa among the youth of these two territories. It is no dishonor 
 in this country to be some generations in finishing their palaces, that 
 without exhausting themselves by a vast expence at once, they may at 
 last erect a sumptuous pile. Count Oleine's Palace is neere perfected 
 in this manner. Count Ulmarini* is more famous for his gardens, 
 being without y e walls, especialy his Cedrario or Conserve of Oranges 
 eleaven score of my paces long, set in order and ranges, making a 
 canopy all the way by their intermixing branches for more than 200 of 
 my single paces, and which being full of fruite and blossoms was a 
 most delicious sight. In the middle of this garden was a cupola made 
 of wyre, supported by slender pillars of brick, so closely cover'd with 
 ivy, both without and within, that nothing was to be perceived but 
 greene ; 'twixt the arches there dangled festoones of the same. Here 
 is likewise a most inextricable labyrinth. 
 
 I had in this towne recommendation to a very civil and ingenious 
 apothecarie call'd Angelico, who had a pretty collection of paintings. 
 I would faine have visited a palace call'd the Rotunda, which was a 
 mile out of towne belonging to Count Martio Capra, but one of our 
 
 Lassells calls him Valmerana, p. 435. 
 
208 
 
 [VERONA. 1646. 
 
 companions hasting to be gone, and little minding any thing save 
 drinking and folly, caus'd us to take coach sooner than we should have 
 done. 
 
 A little from the towne we pass'd y e Campo Martio, set out in imi- 
 tation of ancient Rome, wherein y e noblesse exercise their horses, and 
 the ladys make the Corso ; it is entred by a stately triumphal arch, y e 
 invention of Palladio. 
 
 Being now set out for Verona, about midway we din'd at Ostaria 
 Nova, and came late to our resting-place, which was the Cavaletto, 
 just over the monument of the Scaligeri*, formerly Princes of Verona, 
 adorn'd with many devices in stone of ladders, alluding to y e name. 
 
 Early next morning we went about y c Citty, which is built on y e 
 gentle declivity and bottome of an hill, inviron'd in part with some 
 considerable mountaines and downes of fine grass like some places in 
 y e South of England, and on the other side having the rich plaine 
 where Cains Marius overthrew y e Cimbrians. The Citty is divided in 
 y e midst by y e river Athesis, over which are divers stately bridges, and 
 on its banks are many goodly palaces, whereof one is well painted in 
 cltiaro oscuro on the outside, as are divers in this drie climate of Italy. 
 
 The first thing y l engaged our attention and wonder too, was the 
 amphitheater, which is the most entire of ancient remaines now ex- 
 tant. The inhabitants call it the Arena: it has two portico's, one 
 within y e other, and is 34 rods long, 22 in bredth, with 42 ranks of 
 stone benches or seates which reach to y e top. The vastnesse of y e 
 marble stones is stupendious. "L. V. Flaminia Consul, ano. urb. con. 
 LIU." This I esteeme to be one of the noblest antiquities in Europ, 
 it is so vast and intire, having escaped the mines of so many other 
 public buildings for above 1400 yeares. 
 
 There are other arches, as that of y e victorie of Marius; temples, 
 aquseducts, &c. shewing still considerable remaines in severall places 
 of the towne, and how magnificent it has formerly Ben. It has three 
 strong castles, and a large and noble wall. Indeede, the whole Citty 
 is bravely built, especialy y e Senate house, where we saw those cele- 
 
 * Or della Scala. 
 
VERONA. 1646.] 
 
 209 
 
 brated statues of Cornelius Nepos, Emilius Marcus, Plinius, and Vi- 
 truvius, all having honoured Verona by their birth, and of later date 
 Julius Ciesar Scaliger, that prodigie of learning. 
 
 In y e evening we saw y e garden of Count Giusti's villa, where are 
 walkes cut out of the maine rock, from whence we had y e pleasant pro- 
 spect of Mantua and Parma, though at greate distance. At the en- 
 trance of this garden growes the goodliest cypresse I fancy in Europ, 
 cut in pyramid ; 'tis a prodigious tree both for breadth and height, en- 
 tirely cover'dand thick to y e base. 
 
 Dr. Cortone, a Civilian, shew'd us amongst other rarities a St. J)o- 
 rothea of Raphael. We could not see the rare drawings, especialy of 
 Parmensis, belonging to Dr. Marcello, another advocate, on account 
 of his absence. 
 
 This Citty deserved all those elogies Scaliger has honoured it with, 
 for in my opinion the situation is the most delightfull I ever saw, it is 
 so sweetly mixed with rising ground and vallies, so elegantly planted 
 with trees on which Bacchus seems riding as it were in triumph every 
 autumn, for the vines reach from tree to tree ; here of all places I have 
 seene in Italy would 1 fix a residence. Well has that learn'd man given 
 it the name of y e very eye of the world ; — 
 
 Ocelle mundi, Sidus Itali coeli, 
 
 Flos Urbium, flos corniculumq' amcenum, 
 
 Quot sunt, eruntve, quot fuere, Verona. 
 
 The next morning we travell'd over the downes where Marius 
 fought, and fancied ourselves about Winchester and the country 
 towards Dorsetshire. We dined at an inn call'd Cavalla Caschieri, 
 neere Peschiera, a very strong fort of the Venetian Republic, and 
 neere the Lago di Garda, which disembogues into that of Mantua, 
 neere 40 miles in length, highly spoken of by my Lord Arundel to 
 me, as the most pleasant spot in Italy, for which reason I observ'd it 
 with the more diligence, alighting out of the coach and going up to a 
 grove of cypresses growing about a gentleman's country house, from 
 whence indeede it presents a most surprizing prospect. The hills and 
 gentle risings about it produce oranges, citrons, olives, figs, and other 
 tempting fruits, and the waters abound in excellent fish, especialy 
 
 vol. 1. 2 E 
 
210 [ITALY. 1646. 
 
 troutts. In y e middle of this lake stands Sermonea on an island ; here 
 Capt. Wray bought a pretty nag of the master of our inn where we 
 dined, for eight pistoles, which his wife, our hostesse, was so un- 
 willing to part with, that she did nothing but kisse and weepe and 
 hang about the horse's neck till the captaine rid away. 
 
 We came this evening to Brescia, which next morning we traverst 
 according to our custom in search of antiquities and new sights. Here 
 I purchas'd of old Lazarino Cominazzo my fine carabine, which cost 
 me 9 pistoles, this Citty being famous for these fire-armes, and that 
 workman, with Jo. Bap. Franco, the best esteem'd. This Citty con- 
 sists most in artists, every shop abounding in gunns, swords, armorers, 
 &c. Most of the workmen come out of Germanie. The Citty stands 
 in a fertile plaine, yet y e Castle is built on an hill. The streetes 
 abound in faire fountaines. The Torre della Pallada is of a noble 
 Tuscan Order, and the Senate-house is inferior to few. The Piazza is 
 but indifferent; some of the houses arched as at Padoa. The Cathe- 
 drall was under repaire. We would from hence have visited Parma, 
 Piacenza, Mantua, &c. but the banditti and other dangerous parties 
 being abroad, committing many enormities, we were content with a 
 Pisgah sight of them. 
 
 We din'd next day at Ursa Vecchia, and after dinner pass'd by an 
 exceeding strong fort of y e Venetians cal'd Ursa Nova, on their fron- 
 tier. Then by the river Oglio and so by Sonano, where we enter the 
 Spanish dominions, and that night ariv'd at Crema, which belongs to 
 Venice, and is well defended. The Podesta's Palace is finely built, 
 and so is y e Domo or Cathedral and the Tower to it, with an ample 
 Piazza. 
 
 Early next day, after 4 miles riding, we enter' d into the State 
 of Milan, and pass'd by Lodi *, a greate Citty famous for cheese 
 little short of the best Parmeggiano. We din'd at Marignano, 10 miles 
 before coming to Milan, where we met halfe a dozen suspicious Cava- 
 liers, who yet did us no harme. Then passing as through a continual 
 garden, we went on with exceeding pleasure, for it is the paradise of 
 
 * Famous for the victory gained by Buonaparte over the Austrians in 1796. 
 
MILAN. 1646.] 
 
 211 
 
 Lombardy, the highways as even and straite as a line, the fields to a 
 vast extent planted with fruit about the inclosures, vines to every 
 tree at equal distances, and water'd with frequent streames. There 
 was likewise much corne, aud olives in aboundance. At approch of y e 
 Citty some of our company, in dread of y e Inquisition (severer here 
 than in all Spain), thought of throwing away some Protestant books 
 and papers. We arived about 3 in the afternoone, when the officers 
 search'd us thoroughly for prohibited goods, but finding we were onely 
 gentlemen travellers, dismissal us for a small reward, and we went 
 quietly to our inn, the Three Kings, where for that day we refreshed 
 ourselves, as we had neede. The next morning we delivered our let- 
 ters of recommendation to y p learned and courteous Ferrarius, a Doctor 
 of the Ambrosian College, who conducted us to all the remarkable 
 places of the towne, the first of which was the famous Cathedral. We 
 enter'd by a portico so little inferior to y l of Rome, that when it is 
 finish'd it will be hard to say which is y e fairest ; the materials are all 
 of white and black marble, with columns of great height of Egyptian 
 granite. The outside of the Church is so full of sculpture, that you 
 may number 4000 statues all of white marble, amongst w ch that of 
 St. Bartholomew is esteemed a masterpiece. The Church is very spa- 
 cious, almost as long as St. Peter's at Rome, but not so large. About 
 the Quire the sacred storie is finely sculptured in snow-white marble, 
 nor know I where it is exceeded. About y e body of the Church are 
 the miracles of St. Char. Boromeo, and in the vault beneath is his body 
 before the high altar, grated, and inclos'd in one of y e largest chrystals 
 in Europe. To this also belongs a rich treasure. The cupola is all of 
 marble within and without, and even cover'd with great planks of 
 marble, in the Gotick designe. The windows are most beautifully 
 painted. Here are two very faire and excellent organs. The fabriq is 
 erected in the midst of a faire Piazza, and in the center of the Citty. 
 
 Hence we went to the Palace of the Archbishop, which is a quad- 
 rangle, the architecture of Theobaldi, who design'd much for Philip 11 
 in the Escurial, and has built much in Milan. Hence I went into y ■ 
 Governor's Palace, who was Constable of Castile ; tempted by the 
 glorious tapissries and pictures, I adventur'd so far alone, that peeping 
 
212 
 
 [MILAN. }646. 
 
 into a chamber where the greate man was under the barber's hands, he 
 sent one of his Negro's (a slave) to know what I was ; I made the best 
 excuse I could, and that I was only admiring the pictures, which he 
 returning and telling his lord, I heard the Governor reply that I was 
 a spie, on which I retir'd with all the speede I could, pass'd the guard 
 of Swisse, got into the streete, and in a moment to my company, who 
 were gone to the Jesuites Church, which in truth is a noble structure, 
 the front especialy, after y e moderne. After dinner we were conducted 
 to St. Celso, a church of rare architecture, built by Bramante ; the 
 carvings of the marble faciata are by Hannibal Fontana, whom thev 
 esteeme at Milan equal to the best of the ancients. In a roome joyn- 
 ing to the Church is a marble Madona like a Colosse, of the same 
 sculptor's work, w ph they will not expose to the aire. There are two 
 Sacristias, in one of which is a fine Virgin of Leonardo da Vinci, in 
 the other is one by Raphael d'Urbino, a piece which all the world ad- 
 mires. The Sacristan shew'd us a world of rich plate, jewells, and 
 embroder'd copes, which are kept in presses. 
 
 Next we went to see y e Greate Hospital, a quadrangular Cloyster of 
 a vast compasse, a truly royal fabric, with an annual endowment of 
 50,000 crowns of gold. There is in the middle of it a crosse building 
 for the sick, and just under it an altar so plac'd as to be seene in all 
 places of y e Infirmarie. 
 
 There are divers Colleges built in this quarter, richly provided for 
 by y e same Borromeo and his nephew y e last Card 1 Frederico, some not 
 yet finish'd, but of excellent designe. 
 
 In St. Eustorgio, they tell us, formerly lay the bodyes of the 3 Magi, 
 since translated to Colin (Cologne) in Germany ; they however pre- 
 serve y e tomb, which is a square stone, on which is engraven a star' 
 and under it, " Sepulchrum trium Magorum." 
 
 Passing by St. Laurence we saw 16 columns of marble, and y e ruins 
 of a Temple of Hercules, with this inscription yet standing : 
 
 Imp. Csesari L. Aurelio Vero Aug. Arminiaco Medico Parthico Max. Trib. 
 Pot. VII. Imp. IIII. Cos. III. P. P. Divi Antonini Pij Divi Hadriani Nepoti 
 Divi Trajani Parthici Pro Nepoti Divi Nervae Abnepoti Dec. Dec. 
 
MILAN. I646.] 
 
 213 
 
 We concluded this day's wandring at the Monasterie of Madona della 
 Gratia, and in the Refectorie admir'd that celebrated Ccena Domini of 
 Leonardo da Vinci, which takes up the intire wall at the end, and is 
 the same that the greate Virtuoso Francis the First of France was so 
 enamour'd of, that he consulted to remove the whole wall by binding 
 it about with ribs of iron and timber to convey it into France. It is 
 indeede one of the rarest paintings that was ever executed by Leonardo, 
 who was long in y e service of that Prince, and so deare to him that y* 
 King coming to visite him in his old age and sicknesse, he expired in 
 his armes. But this incomparable piece is now exceedingly impair'd*. 
 
 Early next morning came the learned Dr. Ferarius to visite us, and 
 took us in his coach to see the Ambrosian Librarie, where Card 1 . Fred. 
 Borromeo has expended so vast a sum on this building and in furnishing 
 with curiosities, especialy paintings and drawings of inestimable value 
 amongst painters. It is a schole fit to make the ablest artists. There 
 are many rare things of Hans Breugill, and amongst them y e Four 
 Elements. In this room stands the glorious [boastingj inscription of 
 Cavaliero Galeazzo Arconati, valueing his gift to the librarie of severall 
 drawings by Da Vinci, but these we could not see, the keeper of them 
 being out of towne and he always carrying the keys with him ; but my 
 Lord Martial, who had seene them, told me all but one booke are 
 small, that an huge folio contain'd 400 leaves full of scratches of 
 Indians, &c. but whereas the inscription pretends that our King Charles 
 had offer'd ^.1,000 for them, the truth is, and my Lord himselfe told 
 me, that it was he who treated with Galeazzo for himselfe in the name 
 and by permission of the King, and that the Duke of Feria, who was 
 then Governour, should make the bargain : but my Lord having seene 
 them since, did not think them of so much worth. 
 
 * It is not noticed in the Painter's Voyage of Italy, published 1679, probably from its decay. 
 The painting is still there, but having been often retouched, on account of the dampness of the 
 wall, is certainly not what h once was. The picture has been again drawn into notice in England 
 from the magnificent print of it lately engraved in Italy by Raphael Morghen, which is esteemed 
 one of the finest works of art in this kind that has ever been executed. There is also an old en- 
 graving from it by Peter Soutman, but which by no means exhibits a true delineation of the cha- 
 racters of the piece, as designed by Leonardo. 
 
214 
 
 [MILAN. 1646. 
 
 In the great roome, where is a goodly librarie, on y e right hand of 
 y e doore is a small wainscot closset furnish'd w tb rare manuscripts. Two 
 original letters of y e Grand Signor were shew'd us, sent to two Popes, 
 one of which was (as I remember) to Alex 1- VI. (Borgia), and the other 
 mentioning the head of the launce w ch pierc'd our B. Saviour's side 
 sent as a present to y e Pope : I would faine have gotten a copy of 
 them, but could not ; I hear, however, that they are since translated 
 into Italian, and that therein is a most honourable mention of Christ. 
 
 We revisited St. Ambrose's Church. The high altar is supported by 
 4 porphyrie columns, and under it lie the remaines of that holy man. 
 Neere it they shew'd us a pit or well (an obscure place it is) where they 
 say St. Ambrose baptized St. Augustine and recited y e Te Deum, for 
 so imports the inscription. The place is also famous for some Councils 
 that have ben held here, and for the coronation of divers Italian Kings 
 and Emperors, receiving the Iron Crown from the Archbishop of this 
 see *. They shew the History by Josephus written on the bark of trees. 
 The high altar is wonderfully rich. 
 
 Milan is one of the most princely Citties in Europe ; it has no 
 suburbs, but is circled vv th a stately wall for 10 miles, in y e center of a 
 country that seemes to flow with milk and hony. The aire is excellent ; 
 the fields fruitfull to admiration, the market abounding with all sorts of 
 provisions. In the Citty are neere 100 Churches, *J\ Monasteries, 
 40,000 inhabitants ; it is of a circular figure, fortified with bastions, 
 full of sumptuous palaces and rare artists, especialy for works in 
 chrystal, which is here cheape, being found among the Alpes. They 
 are curious straw worke among the nunns, even to admiration. It has 
 a good river, and a citadell at some small distance from y e Citty, com- 
 manding it, of greate strength for its works and munition of all kinds. 
 It was built by Galeatius the Second, and consists of 4 bastions, and 
 works at y e angles and fronts ; the grafF is fac'd with brick to a very 
 great depth ; has 2 strong towres as one enters, and within is another 
 fort and spacious lodgings for y c souldiers and for exercising them. 
 No accommodation for strength is wanting, and all exactly uniforme. 
 
 * Buonaparte took it and put it on his own head. 
 
MILAN. I646.] 
 
 215 
 
 They have here also all sorts of work and tradesmen, a greate 
 magazine of armes and provisions. The fosse is of spring water with 
 a mill for grinding corn, and the ramparts vaulted underneath. 
 Don Juan Vasquez Coronada was now Governor; the garrison Spa- 
 niards onely. 
 
 There is nothing better worth seeing than the collection of Sig r . 
 Septalla *, a canon of St. Ambrose, famous over Christendome for his 
 learning and virtues. Amongst other things he shew'd us an Indian 
 wood that has the perfect scent of civet ; a flint or pebble, that has a 
 quantity of water in it, w ch is plainly to be seen, it being cleare as achat; 
 divers chrystals that have water moving in them, some of them having 
 plants, leaves, and hogs bristles in them ; much amber full of insects, 
 &c. and divers things of woven amianthus -f\ 
 
 Milan is a sweete place, and tho' the streetes are narrow they abound 
 in rich coaches, and are full of noblesse, who frequent the course every 
 night. Walking a turn in the Portico before y e Dome, a cavaliero who 
 pass'd by hearing some of us speaking English, looked a good while 
 earnestly on us, and by and by sending his servant desir'd we would 
 honour him the next day at dinner. We looked on this as an odd 
 invitation, he not speaking to us himselfe, but we returned his civilitie 
 with thanks, tho' not fully resolv'd what to do, or indeed what might 
 be the meaning of it in this jealous place ; but on enquirie 'twas told 
 us he was a Scots Colonel who had an honorable command in the Citty, 
 so that we agreed to go. This afternoone we were wholly taken up in 
 seeing an opera represented by some Neapolitans, performed all in 
 excellent music with rare sceanes, in which there acted a celebrated 
 beauty. 
 
 Next morning we went to the Colonel's, who had sent his servant 
 
 * The Painter's Voyage particularizes 85 pictures in this Collection, but few of them by great 
 Masters. 
 
 f There are two descriptive Catalogues of the Museum ; in its day, one of the most celebrated 
 in all Italy 3 both are in small quarto, the one in Latin, the later and most complete one in 
 Italian. To this is prefixed a large inside view of the Museum, exhibiting its curious contents, of 
 busts, statues, pictures, urns, and every kind of rarity natural and artificial. 
 
 Keysler in his Travels laments the not being able to see it, on account of a law-suit then 
 depending, and it has been long since dispersed, probably in consequence of it. 
 
216 
 
 [MILAN. 1646. 
 
 againe to conduct us to his house, which we found to be a noble palace 
 richly furnish'd. There were other guests, all souldiers, one of them 
 a Scotchman, but we could not learn one of their names. At dinner 
 he excus'd his rudenesse that he had not himselfe spoken to us*, telling 
 us it was his custome when he heard of any English travellers (who 
 but rarely would be knowne to passe thro' that Citty for feare of the 
 Inquisition) to invite them to his house, where they might be free. 
 We had a sumptuous dinner, and the wine was so tempting that after 
 some healths had gon about, and we had risen from table, the Colonel 
 led us into his hall, where there hung up divers colours, saddles, 
 bridles, pistols, and other armes, being trophies which he had taken 
 with his owne hands from the enemy ; amongst them he would needs 
 bestow a paire of pistols on Capt. Wray, one of our fellow-travellers 
 and a good drinking gentleman, and on me a Turkish bridle woven with 
 silk and very curiously emboss'd, with other silk trappings, to which 
 hung a halfe moone finely wrought, which he had taken from a basshaw 
 whom he had slaine. With this glorious spoile I rid the rest of my 
 journey as far as Paris, and brought it afterwards into England. He 
 then shew'd us a stable of brave horses, with his menage and cavale- 
 rizzo. Some of the horses he caus'd to be brought out, which he 
 mounted, and performed all the motions of an excellent horseman. 
 When this was don, and he had alighted, contrary to the advice of 
 his groome and page, who knew y e nature of y e beast and that their 
 master was a little spirited with wine, he would have a fiery horse 
 that had not yet been menaged and was very ungovernable, but was 
 otherwise a very beautifull creature ; this he mounting, y e horse getting 
 y e reines in a full carriere, rose so desperately that he fell quite back, 
 crushing the Colonell so forceably against the wall of the menage, that 
 tho' he sat on him like a Centaure, yet recovering the jade on all foure 
 againe, he desir'd to be taken down and so led in, where he cast him- 
 self on a pallet, and with infinite lamentations, after some time we 
 tooke leave of him being now speechlesse. The next morning going 
 to visite him, we found before the doore the canopie which they usuallv 
 carry over y e host, and some with lighted tapers, which made us 
 suspect he was in very sad condition, and so indeede we found him, 
 
MILAN. 1646.] 
 
 217 
 
 an Irish Frier standing by his bed side as confessing him, or at least 
 disguising a confession, and other ceremonies us'd in extremis, for we 
 afterwards learn'd that the gentleman was a Protestant and had this 
 Frier his confidant, which was a dangerous thing at Milan, had it ben 
 but suspected. At our enterance he sighed grievously and held up 
 his hands, but was not able to speake. After vomiting some blood, he 
 kindly tooke us all by the hand, and made signes that he should see us 
 no more, which made us take our leave of him with extreame reluctancy 
 and affliction for the accident. This sad disaster made us consult about 
 our departure as soon as we could, not knowing how we might be 
 enquir'd after or engag'd, the Inquisition being so cruelly formidable 
 and inevitable on the least suspicion. The next morning, therefore, 
 discharging our lodgings, we agreed for a coach to carry us to the foote 
 of y e Alpes, not a little concern'd for the death of y e Colonell, which we 
 now heard of, and who had so courteously entertain'd us. 
 
 The first day we got as far as Castellanza, by which runs a consi- 
 derable river into Lago Maggiore ; here at dinner were two or three 
 Jesuites, who were very pragmatical and inquisitive, whom we declin'd 
 conversation with as decently as we could : so we pursu'd our journey 
 thro' a most fruitfull plaine, but the weather was wet and uncomfort- 
 able. At night we lay at Sesto. 
 
 The next morning leaving our coach we embarked in a boate to 
 carry us over y e Lake (being one of the largest in Europe) and whence 
 we could see the touring Alps, and amongst them the greate San Ber- 
 nardo, esteemed y e highest mountaine in Europe, appearing to be 
 some miles above the clouds. Thro' this vast water passes the river 
 Ticinus, w ch discharges itselfe into y e Po, by which meanes Hel- 
 vetia transports her merchandizes into Italy, which we now begin to 
 leave behind us. 
 
 Having now sailed about two leagues, we were hal'd ashore at 
 Arona, a strong towne belonging to the Dutchy of Milan, where 
 being examin'd by the Governor and paying a small duty, we were 
 dismiss'd. Opposite to this fort is Angiera, another small towne, the 
 passage very pleasant with the prospect of the Alps cover'd with 
 pine and fir trees, and above them snow. We pass'd the pretty Island 
 
 vol. 1. 2 F 
 
% 
 
 218 
 
 [the alps. 1646. 
 
 Isabella*, about the middle of the Lake, on which is a faire house built on 
 a mount, indeede the whole island is a mount ascended by several ter- 
 races and walks all set about with orange and citron trees. 
 
 The next we saw was Isolaf , and we left on our right hand the Isle 
 of St. Jovanni J, and so sailing by another small towne built also on an 
 island, we ariv'd at night at Margazzo, an obscure village at the end 
 of the Lake, and at the very foote of the Alpes, which now rise as it 
 were suddenly after some hundreds of miles of the most even country in 
 the world, and where there is hardly a stone to be found, as if Nature 
 had here swept up the rubbish of the Earth in the Alpes to forme and 
 cleare the Plaines of Lombardy, which we had hitherto pass'd since 
 our coming from Venice. In this wretched place I lay on a bed stuff'd 
 with leaves, which made such a crackling, and did so prick my skin 
 thro' the tick, that I could not sleepe. The next morning I was fur- 
 nish'd with an asse, for we could not get horses ; instead of stirrups we 
 had ropes tied with a loope to put our feete in, which supplied the 
 place of other trappings. Thus with my gallant steed, bridled with my 
 Turkish present, we pass'd thro' a reasonably pleasant but very narrow 
 vallev till we came to Duomo, where we rested, and having shew'd 
 the Spanish Passe, y e Governor would presse another on us that his 
 Secretary might get a croune. Here we exchang'd our asses for mules, 
 sure footed on the hills and precipices, being accustom'd to passe them ; 
 hiring a guide, we were brought that night thro' very steepe, craggy 
 and dangerous passages to a village called Vedra, being the last of 
 the King of Spain's dominions in y e Dutchy of Milan. We had a very 
 infamous wretched lodging. 
 
 The next morning we mounted again thro' strange, horrid, and fearfull 
 craggs and tracts, abounding in pine trees, and onely inhabited by 
 beares, wolves, and wild goates ; nor could we any where see above a 
 pistol shoote before us, the horizon being terminated with rocks and 
 mountaines, whose tops cover'd with snow seem'd* to touch y e skies, 
 and in many places pierced the clowdes. Some of these vast mountaines 
 were but one entire stone, 'twixt whose clefts now and then precipitated 
 
 * t + These are called " the Borromean Islands in the Lago Maggiore, belonging to the great 
 Milanese family of Borromeo." 
 
THE ALPS. I646.'] 
 
 219 
 
 greate cataracts of mealted snow and other waters, which made a ter- 
 rible roaring, echoing from y e rocks and cavities ; and these waters in 
 some places breaking in the fall wett us as if we had pass'd thro' a 
 mist, so as we could neither see nor heare one another, but trusting to 
 our honest mules we jogged on our way. The narrow bridges in some 
 places made onely by felling huge fir trees and laying them athwart 
 from mountaine to mountaine over cataracts of stupendious depth, are 
 very dangerous, and so are the passages and edges made by cutting 
 away the maine rock ; others in steps ; and in some places we passe be- 
 tweene mountains that have ben broken and fallen on one another, which 
 is very terrible, and one had neede of a sure foote and steady head to 
 climb some of these precipices, besides that they are harbours for beares 
 and wolves who have sometimes assaulted travellers. In these straights 
 we frequently alighted, now freezing in the snow, and anon frying by 
 the reverberation of the sun against the cliffs as we descend lower, when 
 we meete now and then a few miserable cottages so built upon the de- 
 clining of the rocks as one would expect their sliding down. Amongst 
 these inhabite a goodly sort of people having monstrous gullets or 
 wenns of fleshe growing to their throats, some of which I have seene 
 as big as an hundred pound bag of silver hanging under their chinns, 
 among the women especialy, and that so ponderous as that to ease 
 them many wear linen cloth bound about their head and coming under 
 the chin to support it ; but quis tumidurn guttur miratur in Jllpibus ? 
 Their drinking so much snow-water is thought to be the cause of it; 
 the men using more wine are not so strumous as the women. The truth 
 is, they are a peculiar race of people, and many greate water drinkers 
 here have not these prodigious tumours ; it runs as we say in the bloud, 
 and is a vice in the race, and renders them so ugly, shrivel'd and de- 
 form'd by its drawing the skin of the face downe, tbat nothing can be 
 more fritefull ; to this add a strange puffing dress, furrs, and y e barba- 
 rous language, being a mixture of corrupt High German, French and 
 Italian. The people are of greate stature, extreamely fierce and rude, 
 yet very honest and trustie. 
 
 This night thro' almost unaccessible heights we came in prospect of 
 Mons Sempronius, now Mount Sampion, which has on its sum'it a 
 
220 
 
 [the alps. l6"46\ 
 
 few huts and a chapell. Approching this, Captaine Wray's water-spa- 
 niel (a huge filthy cur that had follow'd him out of England) hunted an 
 heard of goates downe the rocks into a river made by the melting of the 
 snow. Ariv'd at our cold harbour (tho' the house had a stove in every 
 roome) and supping on cheese and milk with wretched wine, we went 
 to bed in cupbords* so high from the floore that we climb'd them by a 
 ladder ; we were covered with feathers, that is we lay between two ticks 
 stuff'd with them, and all little enough to keepe one warme. The 
 cielings of the rooms are strangely low for those tall people. The house 
 was now, in September, halfe cover'd with snow, nor is there a tree or 
 bush growing within many miles. 
 
 From this uncomfortable place we prepared to hasten away the next 
 morning, but as we were getting on our mules, comes a huge young 
 fellow demanding mony for a goat w ch he affirm'd that Capt. Wray's 
 dog had kill'd ; expostulating y e matter and impatient of staying in the 
 cold, we set spurrs and endeavour'd to ride away, when a multitude of 
 people being by this time gotten together about us (for it being Sonday 
 morning and attending for the priest to say masse) they stopp'd our 
 mules, beate us off our saddles, and disarming us of our carbines, drew 
 us into one of the roomes of our lodging, and set a guard upon us. Thus 
 we continu'd prisoners till masse was ended, and then came halfe a score 
 grim Swisse, who taking on them to be magistrates sate downe on the 
 table, and condemn'd us to pay a pistole for the goate and ten more for 
 attempting to ride away, threat'ning that if we did not pay it speedily, 
 they would send us to prison and keep us to a day of publiq justice, 
 where, as they perhaps would have exaggerated the crime, for they pre- 
 tended we had prim'd our carbines and would have shot some of them 
 (as indeede the Captaine was about to do) we might have had our heads 
 cut off, as we were told afterwards, for that amongst these rude people 
 a very small misdemeanor dos often meete that sentence. Tho' the 
 proceedings appear'd highly unjust^, on consultation among ourselves 
 we thought it safer to rid ourselves out of their hands and the trouble 
 
 * They have such in Wales. 
 
 f Surely these poor people were right, and this is not expressed with Mr. Eelyn's usual 
 liberality. 
 
THE ALPS. I646.I 
 
 221 
 
 we were brought into, and therefore we patiently layd downe the mony 
 and with fierce countenances had our mules and armes deliver'd to us, 
 and glad we were to escape as we did. This was cold entertainment, 
 but our journey after was colder, the rest of the way having ben as they 
 told us cover'd with snow since the Creation ; no man remember'd it to 
 be without; and because by the frequent snowing the tracts are continualy 
 fill'd up, we passe by severall tall masts set up to guide travellers, so as 
 for many miles they stand in ken of one another like to our beacons. In 
 some places where there is a cleft between 2 mountaines the snow fills 
 it up, whilst the bottome being thaw'd leaves as it were a frozen arch of 
 snow, and that so hard as to beare the greatest weight ; for as it snows 
 often, so it perpetualy freezes, of which I was so sensible that it flaw'd 
 y e very skin of my face. 
 
 Beginning now to descend a little, Capt. Wray's horse (that was 
 our sumpter and carried all our baggage) plunging thro' a bank of loose 
 snow slid downe a frightfull precipice, which so incenc'd the choleriq 
 cavalier his master that he was sending a brace of bullets into the poore 
 beast, least our guide should recover him and run away with his bur- 
 den ; but just as he was lifting up his carbine we gave such a shout, 
 and so pelted y e horse with snow-balls, as with all his might plunging 
 through the snow he fell from another steepe place into another bot- 
 tome neere a path we were to passe. It was yet a good while ere we 
 got to him, but at last we recover'd the place, and easing him of his 
 charge hal'd him out of the snow, where he had ben certainly frozen 
 in if we had not prevented it before night. It was as we judg'd 
 almost two miles that he had slid and fall'n, yet without any other 
 harme than the benuming of his limbs for y e present, but with 
 lifsty rubbing and chafing he began to move, and after a little walking 
 perform'd his journey well enough. All this way, affrited with the 
 disaster of this horse, we trudg'd on foote driving our mules before 
 us ; sometimes we fell, sometimes we slid thro' this ocean of snow, 
 which after October is impassable. Towards night we came into a 
 larger way, thro' vast woods of pines which clothe the middle parts of 
 these rocks. Here they were burning some to make pitch and rosin, 
 piling the knotty branches as we do to make charcoale, reserving what 
 
222 [sion. 1646. 
 
 mealts from them, which hardens into pitch. We pass'd severall cas- 
 cades of dissolv'd snow, that had made channels of formidable depth in 
 y e crevices of y e mountaines, and with such a fearfull roaring as we 
 could heare it for 7 long miles. It is from these sources that the Rhone 
 and the Rhyne which passe thro' all France and Germanie, derive their 
 originals. Late at night we got to a towne called Briga at the foote 
 of y u Alpes, in the Valtoline. Almost every doore had nail'd on the 
 outside and next y e streete a beare's, wolfe's, or foxe's head, and 
 divers of them all three ; a savage kind of sight, but as the Alps are 
 full of these beasts the people often kill them. The next morning we 
 return'd our guide, and tooke fresh mules and another to conduct us 
 to the Lake of Geneva, passing thro' as pleasant a country as that we 
 had just travel'd was melancholy and troublesome. A strange and 
 suddaine change it seem'd, for the reverberation of the sun-beames from 
 the mountaines and rocks that like walls range it on both sides, not 
 above two flight shots in bredth for a very great number of miles, ren- 
 ders y e passage excessively hot. Thro' such extreames we continu'd 
 our journey, that goodly river the Rhone gliding by us in a narrow and 
 quiet channell almost in y e middle of this Canton, fertilising the coun- 
 try for grasse and corne, which grow here in aboundance. 
 
 We arriv'd this night at Sion, a pretty towne and citty, a bishop's 
 seate, and the head of Valesia. There is a Castle, and the Bishop who 
 resides in it has both civill and ecclesiastical jurisdiction. Our host, 
 as the costome of these Cantons is, was one of the chiefest of the 
 towne, and had ben a Colonell in France ; he us'd us with extreame 
 civility, and was so displeas'd at the usage we receiv'd at Mount 
 Sampion, that he would needes gives us a letter to the Governor of the 
 Country who resided at St. Maurice, which was in our May to Ge- 
 neva, to revenge the affront. This was a true old blade, and had ben 
 a very curious virtuoso, as we found by an handsome collection of 
 books, medails, pictures, shells, and other antiquities. He shew'd two 
 heads and homes of the true capricorne, which animal he told us was 
 frequently kill'd among y e mountaines ; one branch of them was as 
 much as I could well lift and neere as high as my head, not much un- 
 like the greater sort of goates, save that they bent forwards, by help 
 
MARTIGNI. 
 
 223 
 
 whereof they climh up and hang on inaccessible rocks, from whence the 
 inhabitants now and then shoote them ; they speak prodigious things of 
 their leaping from crag to crag, and of their sure footing notwithstand- 
 ing their being cloven footed, unapt one would think to take hold and 
 walke so steadily on those horrible ridges as they do. The Colonell 
 would have given me one of these beames, but the want of a convenience 
 to carrv it along with me caus'd me to refuse his courtesie. He told 
 me that in the Castle there were some Roman and Christian antiquities, 
 and he had some inscriptions in his owne garden. He invited us to 
 his country-house, where he said he had better pictures and other 
 rarities ; but our time being short, I could not persuade my companions 
 to stay and visite the places he would have had us seene, nor the offer 
 he made to shew us the hunting of the beare, wolfe, and other wild 
 beasts. The next morning, having presented his daughter, a pretty 
 well-fashioned young woman, with a small rubie ring, we parted some- 
 what late from our generous host. Passing thro' the same pleasant 
 vally betweene the horrid mountaines on either hand, like a gallery 
 many miles in length, we got to Martigni, where also we were well 
 entertain'd. The houses in this country are all built of firr boards 
 planed within, low, and seldom above one story. The people very 
 clownish and rustickly clad after a very odd fashion, for y e most part 
 in blew cloth, very whole and warme, with little variety or distinction 
 'twixt the gentlemen and common sort, by a law of their country being 
 exceedingly frugal. Add to this their greate honestie and fidelity, 
 tho' exacting enough for what they part with. I saw not one beggar. 
 We paied the value of 20 shill. English for a day's hire of one horse. 
 Every man gos with a sword by his side, the whole country well dis- 
 ciplin'd, and indeed impregnable, which made the Romans have such 
 ill successe against them ; one lusty Swisse at their narrow passages is 
 sufficient to repell a legion. 'Tis a frequent thing here for a young 
 tradesman or fermor to leave his wife and children for 12 or 15 yeares, 
 and seeke his fortune in the warrs in Spaine, France, Italy, or Germanie, 
 and then returne againe to worke. I look upon this country to be the 
 safest spot of all Europ, neither envyed nor envying ; nor are any of 
 them rich, nor poore ; they live in greate simplicity and tranquillitie ; 
 
224 
 
 [ST7 MAURICE. I646. 
 
 and tho' of the 14 Cantons halfe be Roman Catholics, the rest Re- 
 formed, yet they mutualy agree, and are confederate with Geneva, and 
 are its onely security against its potent neighbours, as they themselves 
 are from being attack'd by the greater Potentates, by the mutual jea- 
 lousie of their neighbours, as either of them would be overbalanc'd 
 should the Swisse, who are wholy mercenarie and auxiliaries, be sub- 
 jected to France or Spaine. 
 
 We were now ariv'd at St. Maurice, a large handsome towne and 
 residence of the President, where justice is don ; to him we presented 
 our letter from Sion, and made known the ill usage we had receiv'd for 
 killing a wretched goate, which so incens'd him as he sware if we would 
 stay he would not onely help us to our mony againe, but most severely 
 punish the whole rabble ; but our desire of revenge had by this time 
 subsided, and glad we were to be gotten so neere France, which we 
 reckon'd as good as home. He courteously invited us to dine with him, 
 but we excus'd ourselves, and returning to our inn, whilst we were 
 eating something before we tooke horse, the Governor had caus'd two 
 pages to bring us a present of two great vessells of cover'd plate full of 
 excellent wine, in which we drank his heath, and rewarded y e youthes ; 
 they were two vast bowles supported by two Swisses, handsomely 
 wrought after the German manner. This civilitie and that of our host 
 at Sion perfectly reconcil'd us to the highlanders ; and so proceeding on 
 our journy we pass'd this afternoone thro' the gate which divides the 
 Valois from the Dutchy of Savoy, into which we were now entering, 
 and so thro' Montei we arriv'd that evening at Beveretta. Being ex- 
 treamly weary and complaining of my head, and finding little accom- 
 modation in the house, I caus'd one of our hostesses daughters to be 
 removed out of her bed and went immediately into it whilst it was yet 
 warme, being so heavy with pain and drowsinesse that I would not stay 
 to have the sheetes chang'd ; but I shortly after payd dearly for my 
 impatience, falling sick of the small pox as soon as I came to Geneva, 
 for by the smell of frankincense and y e tale y e good woman told me of 
 her daughter having had an ague, I afterwards concluded she had ben 
 newly recover'd of the small pox. Notwithstanding this I went with 
 my company the next day, hiring a bark to carry us over the Lake : 
 
GENEVA. 1646.] 225 
 
 and indeede sick as I was, the weather was so serene and bright, the 
 water so calme, and aire so temperate, that never had travellers a sweeter 
 passage. Thus we sail'd the whole length of the Lake, about 30 
 miles, the countries bordering on it (Savoy and Berne) affording one 
 of the most delightfull prospects in the world, the Alps cover'd with 
 snow, tho' at a greate distance yet shewing their aspiring tops. Thro' 
 this Lake the river Rhodanus passes with that velocity as not to mingle 
 with its exceeding deep waters, which are very cleare, and breed the 
 most celebrated troute for largenesse and goodness of any in Europe. 
 I have ordinarily seene one of three foote in length sold in the market 
 for a small price, and such we had in y e lodging where we abode, which 
 was at the White Crosse. All this while I held up tolerably, and the 
 next morning having a letter for Sign 1 " John Diodati, the famous Italian 
 Minister and translator of the Holy Bible into that language, I went 
 to his house, and had a greate deal of discourse w lh that learned person. 
 He told me he had been in England, driven by tempest into Deale, 
 whilst sailing for Holland, that he had seene London, and was ex- 
 ceedingly takeu with the civilities he receiv'd. He so much approv'd of 
 our Church Government by Bishops, that he told me the French Pro- 
 testants would make no scruple to submitt to it and all its pomp, had 
 they a King of the Reform'd Religion as we had. He exceedingly 
 deplor'd the difference now betweene his Ma ty and the Parliament. 
 After dinner came one Mons r Saladine with his little pupil the Earle of 
 Carnarvon, to visit us, offering to carry us to the principal places of 
 the towne, but being now no more able to hold up my head, I was 
 constrain'd to keepe my chamber, imagining that my very eyes would 
 have dropp'd out ; and this night I felt such a stinging all about me 
 that I could not sleepe. In the morning I was very ill, but sending for 
 a doctor he persuaded me to be let bloud. He was a very learned old 
 man, and as he said had ben physician to Gustavus the greate King of 
 Sweden, when he pass'd this way into Italy under y e name of Mons r . 
 Garse, the initial letters of Gustavus Adolphus Rex Sueciae, and of 
 our famous Duke of Buckingham on his returning out of Italy. He 
 afterwards acknowledg'd that he should not have bled me had he sus- 
 pected y e small pox, which brake out a dav after. He afterwards 
 vol. 1. 2 G 
 
226 
 
 [geneva. 1646. 
 
 purg'd me and applied leaches, and God knows what this would have 
 produc'd if the spots had not appear'd, for he was thinking of blooding 
 me againe. They now kept me warme in bed for 16 daies, tended by 
 a vigilant Swisse matron, whose monstrous throat, when I sometimes 
 awak'd out of unquiet slumbers, would affright me. After the pimples 
 were come forth, which were not many, I had much ease as to paine, 
 but infinitely afflicted with the heat and noysomenesse. By God's mercy 
 after five weeks keeping my chamber I went abroad. Mons. Saladine 
 and his lady sent me many refreshments. Mons. Le Chat, my physi- 
 cian, to excuse his letting me bloud told me it was so burnt and vicious 
 as it would have prov'd the plague or spotted feaver had he proceeded by 
 any other method. On my recovering sufficiently to go abroad, I dined 
 at Mons r . Saladine's, and in the afternoone went crosse the water on 
 the side of the Lake, and tooke a lodging that stood exceeding pleasant 
 about halfe a mile from the Citty for the better ayring ; but I stay'd 
 onely one night, having no company there save my pipe ; so the next 
 day I caus'd them to row me about the Lake as far as the greate stone 
 which they call Neptune's Rock, and on which they say sacrifice was 
 anciently offer'd to him. Thence I landed at certaine cherry -gardens 
 and pretty villas by the side of the Lake and exceedingly pleasant. 
 Returning I visited their conservatories of fish ; in which were trouts of 
 6 and 7 foote long as they affirm d. 
 
 The Rhone, which parts y e Citty in y e middst, dips into a cavern 
 underground about 6 miles from it, and afterwards rises againe and runns 
 its open course like our Mole or Swallow by Dorking in Surrey. The 
 next morning (being Thursday) I heard Dr. Diodati preach in Italian, 
 many of that Country, especialy of Lucca his native place, being in- 
 habitants of Geneva and of the Reform'd Religion. 
 
 The towne lying between Germanie, France, and Italy, those three 
 tongues are familiarly spoken by the inhabitants. 'Tis a strong well 
 fortifi'd Citty, part of it built on a rising ground. The houses are not 
 despicable, but the high pent-houses (for I can hardly call tbem 
 cloysters, being all of wood) thro' which the people passe drie and in 
 the shade winter and summer, exceedingly deforme the fronts of the 
 buildings. Here are aboundance of bookesellers, but their bookes are 
 
GENEVA. 
 
 227 
 
 of ill impressions ; these, with watches (of which store are made here), 
 chrystal, and excellent screw'd guns, are the staple commodities. All 
 provisions are good and cheape. 
 
 The Townehouse is fairely built of stone ; the portico has foure black 
 marble columns, and on a table of the same under the Citty arms, a 
 demie eagle and a crosse between crosse-keys, is a motto, " Post Tene- 
 bras Lux," and this inscription : 
 
 Quum anno 1 535 profligata Romana Anti-Christi Tyrannide, abrogatisq; 
 ejus superstitionibus, sacro-sancta Christi Religio hie in suam puritatem, 
 Ecclesia in meliorem ordinem singulari Dei beneficio reposita, et simul pulsis 
 fugatisq; hostibus, urbs ipsa in suam Libertatem, non sine insigni miraculo, 
 restituta fuerit ; Senatus Populusq; Genevensis Monumentum hoc, perpetuae 
 memorise causa, fieri atque hoc loco erigi curavit, quo suam erga Deum gra- 
 titudinem ad posteros testatum fuerit. 
 
 The territories about the towne are not so large as many ordinary 
 gentlemen have about their country farmes, for which cause they are 
 in continual watch, especialy on the Savoy side ; but in case of any 
 siege the Swisse are at hand, as this inscription in the same place 
 shews, towards the streete : 
 
 D. O. M. S. 
 
 Anno a vera Religione divinitus cum veteri Libertate Genevae restituta, et 
 quasi novo Jubileo ineunte, plurimis vitatis domi et foris insidiis et superatis 
 tempestatibus, et Helvetiorum Primari Tigurini aequo jure in societatem per- 
 petuam nobiscum venerint, et veteres fidissimi socii Bernenses prius vinculum 
 novo adstrinxerint, S. P. Q. G, quod felix se velit D. O. M. tanti beneficii mo- 
 numentum consecrarunt, anno temporis ultimi clo.io.xxxiv. 
 
 In the Senat house were 14 antient urnes, dug up as they were 
 removing earth in the fortifications. 
 
 A little out of the towne is a spacious field which they call Campus 
 Martius ; and well it may be so tearm'd with better reason than that 
 of Rome at present (which is no more a field but all built into streetes), 
 for here on every Sonday after the evening devotions this precise people 
 permitt their youths to exercise armes, and shoote in gunns and in the 
 long and crosse bowes, in which they are exceedingly expert, reputed 
 to be as dexterous as any people in the world. To encourage this, they 
 yearely elect him wlio has won most prizes at the mark to be their 
 
228 
 
 [geneva. 1646. 
 
 king, as the king of the long-bow, gun, or erosse-bow. He then 
 weares that weapon in his hat in gold w th a crowne over it, made fast 
 to the hat like a broach. In this field is a long house wherein their 
 armes and furniture are kept in severall places very neately. To this 
 joynes a hall where at certain times they meete and feast ; in the glass 
 windows are the armes and names of their kings [of armes]. At y e 
 side of the field is a very noble Pall-Mall, but it turns with an elbow. 
 There is also a bowling-place, a tavern, and a true-table, and here 
 they ride their menaged horses. It is also the usual place of publiq 
 execution of those who suffer for any capital crime tho' committed in 
 another country, by which law, divers fugitives have been put to death 
 who have fled hither to escape punishment in their own country. 
 Amongst other severe punishments here, adultery is death. Having 
 seene this field and play'd a game at Mall, I supped with Mr. Saladine. 
 
 On Sonday I heard Dr. Diodati preach in French, and after the 
 French mode, in a gowne with a cape and his hat on. The Church 
 Government is severely Presbyterian, after the discipline of Calvin and 
 Beza who set it up, but nothing so rigid as either our Scots or Eng- 
 lish Sectaries of that denomination. In y e afternoone Mons r . Morice, 
 a most learned young person and excellent poet, chief Professor of 
 the University, preach'd at St. Peter's, a spacious Gotick fabrick. 
 This was heretofore a Cathedral and a reverend pile. It has 4 turrets, 
 on one of which stands a continual sentinel ; on another cannons are 
 mounted. The Church is very decent within ; nor have they at all 
 defaced y e painted windows, which are full of pictures of Saints ; nor 
 the stalls, which are all carv'd with y e history of our B. Saviour. 
 
 In the afternoone I went to see the young towne's-men exercise in 
 Mars Field, where prizes were pewter plates and dishes ; 'tis said 
 that some have gain'd competent estates by what they have thus won. 
 Here I first saw huge balistee or crosse-bows shot in, being such as they 
 formerly us'd in wars before greate guns were known; they were plac'd 
 in frames, and had greate screws to bend them, doing execution at an 
 incredible distance. They were most accurate at the long-bow and 
 musket, rarely missing the smallest mark. I was as buisy with the 
 carbine I brought from Brescia as any of them. After every shot I 
 
GENEVA. l646'.J 
 
 229 
 
 found them go into the long house and cleanse their guns before they 
 eharg'd againe. 
 
 On Monday I was invited to a little garden without y e workes 
 where were many rare tulips, anemonies, and other choice flowers. 
 The Rhone, running athwart y e towne out of y e Lake, makes halfe ye 
 Citty a suburb, which in imitation of Paris they call St. German's 
 Fauxbourg, and it has a church of the same name. On two wooden 
 bridges that crosse the river are several water-mills, and shops of trades 
 especialy smiths and cutlers ; between the bridges is an island, in the 
 midst of which is a very ancient Tower said to have been built by Julius 
 Caesar. At the end of the other bridge is y e Mint, and a faire Sun-dial. 
 
 Passing againe by y e Towne-house I saw a large crocodile hanging 
 in chaines; and against the wall of one of the chambers seaven judges 
 were painted without hands, except one in the middle, who has but 
 one hand ; I know not y e storie. The Arsenal is at the end of this 
 building, well furnish'd and kept. 
 
 After dinner Mr. Morice led us to the Colledge, a faire structure ; 
 in the lower part are the scholes, which consist of 9 classes ; and an 
 hall above, where the students assemble ; also a good library. They 
 show'd us a very antient Bible of about 300 yeares old in the vulgar 
 French, and a MS. in y e old Monkish character : here have the Pro- 
 fessors their lodgings. I also went to see the Hospital, which is very 
 commodious ; but the Bishop's Palace is now a prison. 
 
 This towne is not much celebrated for beautifull women, for even at 
 this distance from the Alps the gentlewomen have something full 
 throates, but our Captain Wray {afterwards Sir W 1 ". eldest son of that 
 Sir Christopher, who had both ben in armes against his Majesty for 
 y e Parliament) fell so mightily in love with one of Mons r . Saladine's 
 daughters that with much persuasion he could not be prevail'd on 
 to think on his journey into France, y e season now coming on ex- 
 tremely hot. 
 
 My sicknesse and abode here cost me 45 pistoles of gold to my host, 
 and five to my honest doctor, who for six weekes attendance and the 
 apothecarie thought it so generous a reward, that at my taking leave 
 he presented me with his advice for the regimen of my health, written 
 
230 [FRANCE. I646. 
 
 with his own hand in Latine. This regimen I much observ'd, and I 
 bless God pass'd the journey without inconvenience from sicknesse, but 
 it was an extraordinarily hot unpleasant season and journey by reason of 
 y e craggie waies. 
 
 5 July, 1646, we tooke or rather purchas'd a boat, for it could not 
 be brought back against the streame of the Rhone. We were two days 
 going to Lions, passing many admirable prospects of rocks and cliffs, 
 and neere the towne down a very steepe declivitie of water for a full 
 mile. From Lions we proceeded the next morning, taking horse to 
 Rohan, and lay that night at Farrara. At Rohan we indulged our- 
 selves with y e best y* all France affords, for here y e provisions are 
 choice and plentifull, so as the supper we had might have satisfied a 
 prince. We lay that night in damask beds, and were treated like em- 
 perours. The towne is one of the neatest built in all France, on y e 
 brink of the Loire ; and here we agreed with an old fisher to row us 
 as farr as Orleans. The first night we came as far as Nevers, early 
 enough to see the towne, the Cathedral (St. Cyre), the Jesuits Col- 
 ledge, and the Castle, a Palace of the Duke's, with the bridge to it 
 nobly built. 
 
 The next day we pass'd by La Charite, a pretty towne somewhat 
 distant from the river. Here I lost my faithfull spaniel (Piccioli) who 
 had follow'd me from Rome ; it seemes he had ben taken up by some 
 of the Governor's pages or footemen, without recovery, which was a 
 greate displeasure to me because the curr had many useful qualities. 
 
 The next day we ariv'd at Orleans, taking our turns to row, of 
 which I reckon my share came to little less than 20 leagues. Some- 
 times we footed it thro' pleasant fields and medows; sometimes we shot 
 at fowls and other birds, nothing came amiss ; sometimes we play'd at 
 cards, whilst others sung or were composing verses, for we had y e 
 greate Poet Mr. Waller in our companie, and some other ingenious 
 persons. 
 
 At Orleans we abode but one day ; the next, leaving our mad Cap- 
 taine behind us, I ariv'd at Paris, rejoic'd that after so many dissasters 
 and accidents in a tedious peregrination I was gotten so neere home, 
 and here I resolv'd to rest myselfe before I went further. 
 
PARIS. 1647.] 
 
 231 
 
 It was now October, and the onely time that in my whole life I spent 
 most idly, tempted from my more profitable recesses; but I soone reco- 
 ver'd my better resolutions and fell to my study, learning the High 
 Dutch and Spanish tongues, and now and then refreshing my daunce- 
 ing and such exercises as I had long omitted and w ch are not in much 
 reputation amongst the sober Italians. 
 
 16*47, January 28, I chang'd my lodging in the Place de Mons r . de 
 Metz neere the Abby of S c Germains ; and thence on the 12 th Feb y to 
 another in Rue Columbier, where I had a very faire appartement which 
 cost me 4 pistoles per moneth. The 18th I frequented a course of Che- 
 mistrie, the famous M r . Le Febure operating upon most of the nobler 
 processes. March 3, Mons r Mercure began to teach me on y e lute, tho' 
 to small perfection. 
 
 In May I fell sick and had very weak eyes, for which I was foure 
 times let blood. 
 
 22 May. My valet (Hebert) robb'd me of cloths and plate to the 
 value of threescore pounds, but thro' the diligence of Sir Richard 
 Browne, his Majesty's Resident at the Court of France, and with whose 
 lady and family I had contracted a greate friendship (and particularly 
 set my affections on a daughter) I recover'd most of them, obtaining of 
 the Judge with no small difficulty that the processe against the thiefe 
 should not concerne his life, being his first offence. 
 
 10 June. We concluded about my marriage, in order to which I 
 went to St. Germans, where his Majesty, then Prince of Wales, had 
 his court, to desire of Dr. Earle, then one of his Chaplains (since 
 Dean of Westminster, Clerke of the Closet, and Bishop of Salisburie) 
 that he would accompany me to Paris, which he did, and on Thursday 2J 
 June, 1647, he married us in Sir Richard Browne's Chapell betwixte the 
 houres of 11 and 12, some few select freinds being present: and this 
 being Corpus Christi feast was solemnly observ'd in this country ; the 
 streetes were sumptuously hung with tapissry, and strew'd with flowers. 
 
 10 Sept. Being call'd into England to settle my affaires after an 
 absence of about 4 yeares, I tooke leave of the Prince and Queene, 
 leaving my wife, yet very young, under the care of an excellent lady 
 and prudent mother. 
 
232 
 
 [ENGLAND. I647. 
 
 4 Oct. I seal'd and declared my Will, and that morning went from 
 Paris, taking my journey thro' Rouen, Dieppe, Vile-dieu, and St. 
 Vallerie where I staied one day with Mr. Waller with whom I had 
 some affaires, and for which cause I tooke this circle to Calais, where 
 I ariv'd on the 11th, and that night imharking in the paquet-boate, 
 was by one o'clock got safe to Dover, for which I heartily put up my 
 thanks to God who had conducted me safe to my owne country, and 
 ben mercifull to me thro' so many aberrations. Hence taking post I 
 ariv'd at London the next day at evening, being the second of October 
 new style. 
 
 5 Oct. I came to Wotton, the place of my birth, to my brother, and 
 on the 10th to Hampton Court, where 1 had the honour to kisse his 
 Majesty's hand, and give him an account of severall things I had in 
 charge, he being now in the power of those execrable villains who not 
 long after murder'd him. I lay at my cousin Serjeant Hatton's at 
 Thames Ditton, whence on the 13th I went to London. 
 
 14th. To Sayes Court at Deptford in Kent (since my house), where 
 I found Mr. Pretyman my wife's uncle, who had charge of it and the 
 estate about it during my father-in-law's residence in France. On the 
 15th I again occupied my owne Chambers at the Middle Temple. 
 
 9 Nov. My sister open'd to me her marriage with Mr. Glanvill. 
 
 1648. 14 Jan. From London I went to Wotton to see my young ne- 
 phew; and thence to Baynards [in Ewhurst] to visite my brotherRichard. 
 
 5 Feb. Saw a Tragie-comedy acted in the Cockpit, after there had 
 ben none of these diversions for many years during the warr. 
 
 28. I went with my noble friend Sir W m Ducy (afterwards Lord 
 Downe) to Thistle worth, where we din'd with Sir Clepesby Crew, 
 and afterwards to see the rare miniatures of Peter Oliver and rounds of 
 plaster, and then the curious flowers of Mr. Barill's garden, who has 
 some good medails and pictures. Sir Clepesby has fine Indian hang- 
 ings and a very good chimney-piece of water-colours by Breugel, which 
 I bought for him. 
 
 26 April. There was a greate uprore in London that the Rebeil 
 Armie quartering at Whitehall would plunder the Citty, on which 
 there was publish'd a Proclamation for all to stand on their guard. 
 
1648.] 
 
 233 
 
 4. May. Came up the Essex Petitioners for an agreement 'twixt his 
 Majesty and the Rebells. The 16th the Surrey men address'd the Par- 
 liament for the same ; of which some of them were slayne and murder'd 
 by Cromwell's guards in the New Palace Yard. I now sold the Impro- 
 priation of South Mailing neere Lewes in Sussex to Mr. Kemp and 
 Alcock for ag.3000. 
 
 30 May. There was a rising now in Kent, my Lord of Norwich 
 being at the head of them. Their first rendevous was in Broome field 
 next my house at Says-Court, whence they went to Maidstone, and so 
 to Colchester, where was that memorable siege. 
 
 27 June. I purchas'd the Manor of Hurcott in Worcestershire of 
 my brother George for ^.3300. 
 
 1 July. I sate for my picture, in which there is a Death's head, to 
 Mr. Walker, that excellent painter. 
 
 10. Newes was brought me of my Lord Francis Villers being slaine 
 by y e Rebells neere Kingston. 
 
 16. Aug. I went to Woodcote (in Epsom) to the wedding of my 
 brother Richard, who married the daughter and coheire of Esq r Minn 
 lately deceas'd, by which he had a greate estate both in land and monie 
 on the death of a brother. The coach in which the bride and bride- 
 groome were, was overturn'd in coming home, but no harm was done. 
 
 28. To London from Says Court, and saw y e celebrated follies of 
 Bartholomew Fair. 
 
 Sept. 16. Came my lately married brother Richard and his wife to 
 visite me, when I shewed them Greenewich and her Majesties Palace, 
 now possessed by the Rebells. 
 
 28. I went to Albury to visite the Countess of Arundel, and return'd 
 to Wotton. 
 
 31 Oct. I went to see my Manor of Preston Beckhelvyn and the 
 Cliffhouse. 
 
 29th Nov. My selfe with Mr. Tho: Offley and Lady Gerrard, 
 christned my niece Mary, eldest daughter of my brother George Eve- 
 lyn by my Lady Cotton his second wife. I presented my niece a piece 
 of plate which cost me ^.18, and caused this inscription to be set on it: 
 
 vol. 1. 2 H 
 
234 [1649- 
 
 " In memoriam facti 
 Anno clo.lx.xlnx. Cal. Decemb. vm Virginum castiss: Xtianorum inno- 
 centiss: Nept: suaviss: Mariae, Johan: Evelynus Avunculus et Susceptor 
 Vasculum hoc cum Epigraphe L. M. Q. D. 
 
 Ave Maria, Gratia sis plena; Dominus tecum." 
 
 2 Dec. This day I sold my Manor of Hurcott for ,§£.3400 to one 
 Mr. Bridges. 
 
 13. The Parliament now sat up the whole night and endeavour'd 
 to have concluded the Isle of Wight Treaty, but were surpriz'd by the 
 Rebell Army, y e Members dispers'd, and greate confusion every where 
 in expectation of what would be next. 
 
 17- I heard an Italian sermon in Mercers Chapel, one Dr. Mid- 
 dleton, an acquaintance of mine, preaching. 
 
 18. I got privately into the Council of y e Rebell Army at White- 
 hall, where I heard horrid villanies. 
 
 This was a most exceeding wet yeare, neither frost nor snow all the 
 Winter for more than 6 days in all. Cattle died every where of a 
 murrain. 
 
 1649, 1 Jan. I had a lodging and some bookes at my father in law's 
 house, Sayes Court. 
 
 2 Jan. I went to see my old friend and fellow-traveller Mr. Hen- 
 shaw, who had 2 rare pieces of Stenwyck's perspective. 
 
 17. To London. I heard the Rebell Peters incite the Rebell Powers 
 met in the Painted Chamber to destroy his Ma% and saw that arch- 
 traytor Bradshaw, who not long after condemn'd him. 
 
 19. I returned home, passing an extraordinary danger of being 
 drowned by our wherries falling foule in the night on another vessell 
 then at anker, shooting the bridge at 3 quarters ebb, for which His 
 mercy God Almighty be prais'd. 
 
 21. Was publish'd my Translation of Liberty and Servitude, for 
 y c Preface of which I was severely threatened. 
 
 22. I went thro' a course of Chymistrie at Sayes Court. Now was 
 the Thames frozen over, and horrid tempests of wind. 
 
 The villanie of the Rebells proceeding now so far as to trie, condemne 
 and murder our excellent King on y e 30th of this month, struck me 
 
1649 -0 235 
 
 with such horror that I kept the day of his martyrdom a fast, and 
 would not be present at that execrable wickednesse, receiving the sad 
 account of it from my brother George and Mr. Owen, who came to 
 visite me this afternoone, and recounted all the circumstances. 
 
 1 Feb. Now were Duke Hamilton, the Earl of Norwich, Lord 
 Capell, &c. at their tryal before the Rebells New Court of Injustice. 
 
 15. I went to see y e collection of one Trean, a rich merchant, who 
 had some good pictures, especialy a rare perspective of Stenwyck; from 
 thence to other Virtuoso's. The paynter La Neve has an Jlndromeda, 
 but I think it a copy after Vandyke from Titian, for the original is in 
 France. Webb at the Exchange has some rare things in miniature 
 of Breugel's, also Putti* in 12 squares, that were plunder'd from Sir 
 James Palmer. At Du Bois we saw 2 tables of Putti, that were 
 gotten, I know not how, out of the Castle of St. Angelo by old Petit, 
 thought to be Titian's; he had some good heads of Palma, and one of 
 Stenwyck. Bellcar shew'd us an excellent copy of his Majesty's 
 Sleeping Venus and the Satyre with other figures, for now they had 
 plunder'd, sold, and dispers'd a world of rare paintings of y e King's 
 and his loyall subjects. After all, S r W" 1 Ducy shew'd me some ex- 
 cellent things in miniature, and in oyle of Holbein's, S r Tho. More 's 
 head, and an whole figure of Edward 6 th , which were certainly his 
 Majesty's, also a picture of Queene Elizabeth, the Lady Isabella 
 Thynn ; a rare painting of Rothenhamer, being a Susanna; and a 
 Magdalen of Quintin the Blacksmith ; also an Hen. 8. of Holbein ; 
 and Francis y e first, rare indeede, but of whose hand I know not. 
 
 16. Paris being now strictly besieged by the Prince de Conde, my 
 wife being shut up with her father and mother, I wrote a letter of con- 
 solation to her; and on the 22d having recommended Obadiah Walkerf, 
 a learned and most ingenious person, to be tutor to and to travell with 
 Mr. Hillyard's two sonns, returned to Says Court. 
 
 25. Came to visite me Dr. Joyliflfe, discoverer of the lymphatic ves- 
 sells, and an excellent anatomist. 
 
 * Putti — Boys' Heads. 
 
 f Mr. Evelyn has added in the margin against Walker's name, " Since an apostate." He was 
 master of University College, Oxford. 
 
236 
 
 [1649- 
 
 26. Came to see me Capt. Geo. Evelyn* my kinsman y 6 greate 
 traveller, and one who believ'd himself a better architect than really he 
 was, witness the Portico in the garden at Wotton; yet the greate roome 
 at Albury is somewhat better understood. He had a large mind, but 
 overbuilt every thing. 
 
 27. Came out of France my wife's unkle (Paris still besieged) being 
 rob'd at sea by the Dunkyrk pirates : I lost among other goods my 
 Wife's picture painted by Mons r Bourdon. 
 
 5 March. Now were the Lords murder'd in the Palace Yard-j\ 
 
 18. Mr. Owen, a sequester'd and learned minister, preach'd in my 
 parlour, and gave us the blessed Sacrament, now wholly out of use in the 
 Parish Chnrches, on which the Presbyterians and Fanatics had usurp'd. 
 
 21 Mar. I received letters from Paris from my wife, and from Sir 
 Richard [Browne] with whom I kept a political correspondence, with 
 no small danger of being discover'd. 
 
 25. I heard the Common Prayer (a rare thing in these days) in St. 
 Peter's at Paul's Wharf, London ; and in y e morning the Archbishop 
 of Armagh, that pious person and learned man, Usher, in Lincoln's 
 Inn Chapell. 
 
 April 2. To London, and inventoried my moveables that had hitherto 
 ben dispersed for feare of plundering : wrote into France touching my 
 suddaine resolutions of coming over to them. On the 8th againe heard 
 an excellent discourse from Archbp. Usher on Ephes: 4. v. 26-27. 
 
 My Italian collection being now ariv'd, came Moulins y e greate 
 Chirurgeon, to see and admire the Tables of Veins and Arteries which 
 I purchas'd and caus'd to be drawne out of several humane bodies at 
 Padua. 
 
 11. Received newes out of France that peace was concluded : dined 
 with Sir Jo. Evelyn at Westminster : and on the 13th 1 saw a private 
 dissection at Moulins' house. 
 
 1/. I fell dangerously ill of my head ; was blistered and let blood 
 behind y e eares and forehead : on the 23rd began to have ease by using 
 
 * Son of Sir John Evelyn of Godstone ; see Pedigree in the History of Surrey, vol. II. p. 150, 
 but where he is by mistake stated to be brother of Sir John, 
 f Duke Hamilton, the Earl of Holland, and Lord Capel. 
 
237 
 
 the fumes of cammomile on embers applied to my eares after all the 
 physitians had don their best. 
 
 29. I saw in London an huge ox bred in Kent, 17 foote in length, 
 and much higher than I could reach. 
 
 12 May. I purchased the Manor of Warley Magna in Essex : in 
 the afternoone went to see Gildron's collection of payntings, where I 
 found Mr. Endymion Porter of his late Ma ties Bedchamber. 
 
 17. Went to Putney by water in barge with divers ladies, to see the 
 Schooles or Colledges of the young gentlewomen*. 
 
 19. To see a rare cabinet of one Delabarr, who had some good 
 paintings, especially a Monk at his beades. 
 
 30 May. Un -kingship was proclaim'd, and his Majesty's statues 
 thrown down at St. Paul's Portico and the Exchange. 
 
 7 June. I visited Sir Arthur Hopton (brother to Sir Ralph, Lord 
 Hopton, that noble hero), who having ben Ambass r Extraordinary in 
 Spaine, sojourn'd some time with my Father-in-law at Paris ; a most 
 excellent person. Also Signora Lucretia, a Greeke Lady whom 1 
 knew in Italy, now come over with her husband, an English gentleman. 
 Also the Earle and Countesse of Arundel, taking leave of them and 
 other friends now ready to depart for France. This night was a scuffle 
 betweene some rebell souldiers and gentlemen about the Temple. 
 
 10. Preach'd the Abp. of Armagh in Lincoln's Inn from Ro- 
 mans 5. verse 13. I received the Blessed Sacrament preparatory to 
 my journey. 
 
 13. I din'd with my worthy friend Sir John Owen, newly freed 
 from sentence of death among the Lords that suffer'd. With him was 
 one Carew, who play'd incomparably on the Welsh harp : afterwards I 
 treated divers Ladies of my relations, in Spring Garden. 
 
 This night was buried with great pomp Dorislaus, slaine at the 
 Hague, the villain who manag'd the trial against his sacred Majesty. 
 
 17. I got a passe from the rebell Bradshaw, then in greate power. 
 
 20. I went to Putney and other places on y° Thames to take 
 
 * Kept probably by Mrs. Bathsua Makins, the most learned woman of her time : she had been 
 tutor to the Princess Elizabeth, King Charles's daughter. There is a very rare portrait of her 
 by Marshall. 
 
238 
 
 [1649. 
 
 prospects in crayon to carry into France, where I thought to have them 
 engrav'd*. 
 
 2 July. I went from Wotton to Godstone (the residence of Sir John 
 Evelyn), where was also Sir John Evelyn of Wilts, when I took leave 
 of both Sir Johns and their ladys. Mem. the prodigious memory of 
 Sir John of Wilts daughter, since married to Mr. W. Pierrepoint, and 
 mother of y e present Earle of Kingston. I returned to Says Court 
 this night. 
 
 4. Visited Lady Hatton, her Lord sojourning at Paris with my 
 father-in-law. 
 
 9. Dined with Sir Walter Pye and my good friend Mr. Eaton, 
 afterwards a Judge, who corresponded with me in France. 
 
 11. Came to see me old Alexander Rosse, the Divine, Historian 
 and Poet ; Mr. Henshaw, Mr. Scudamore, and other friends, to take 
 leave of me. 
 
 12. It was about 3 in y e afternoon I tooke oares for Gravesend, ac- 
 companied by my cousin Stephens and sister Glanvill, who there supp'd 
 with me and return'd ; whence I tooke post immediately to Dover, 
 where I ariv'd by 9 in the morning, and about 11 that night went 
 on board a bark guarded by a pinnace of 8 guns ; this being the first 
 time the pacquett-boate had obtain'd a convoy, having severall times 
 before ben pillag'd. We had a good passage, tho' chas'd for some 
 houres by a pyrate, but he durst not attaq our fregat, and we then 
 chas'd him till he got under the protection of the Castle at Calais. It 
 was a small privateer belonging to the Prince of Wales. I carried over 
 with me my servant Ri. Hoare, an incomparable writer of several 
 hands, whom I afterwards preferr'd in the Prerogative Office-^ at y e 
 return of his Majesty. Lady Catherine Scot, daughter of y e Earle of 
 Norwich, follow'd us in a shallop with Mr. Arthur Slingsby, who left 
 England incognito. At the entrance of the towne the Lieut. Governor 
 being on his horse with y e Guards let us passe courteously. I visited 
 Sir Richard Lloyd, an English Gent, in the towne, and walked in the 
 
 * One of these he etched himself. The plate is now at Wotton. 
 
 f Where specimens of his writing in the entry of Wills about this date may now be seen. 
 
paris. 1649-] 
 
 239 
 
 Church, where the ornament about the high altar of black marble is 
 very fine, and there is a good picture of the Assumption. The Citadell 
 seemes to be impregnable, and the whole country about it to be laied 
 under water by sluices for many miles. 
 
 16. We departed for Paris in company with that very pleasant lady, 
 and others. In all this journey we were greatly apprehensive of parties, 
 which caus'd us to alight often out of our coach and walke separately 
 on foot with our guns ready in all suspected places. 
 
 1 Aug. At 3 in the afternoone we came to St. Denis, saw y e rarities 
 of y e Church and Treasury, and so to Paris that evening. 
 
 The next day came to vvellcome me at dinner the Lord High Trea- 
 surer Cottington, S r Edward Hide Chancellor, S r Edw d Nicholas Secre- 
 tary of State, S r George Cartret Governor of Jersey, and Dr. Earle, 
 having now ben absent from my Wife above a yeare and halfe. 
 
 18. I went to St. Germain's to kisse his Majesty's hand; in y e 
 coach, which was my Lord Wilmot's, went Mrs. Barlow the King's 
 mistresse and mother to y e Duke of Monmouth, a browne, beautifull, 
 bold, but insipid creature. 
 
 19. I went to salute the French King and the Queene Dowager; 
 and on the 21st returned in one of the Queenes coaches with my Lord 
 Germain, Duke of Buckingham, L' 1 Wentworth, & Mr. Croftes, since 
 Lord Croftes. 
 
 / Sept. Went with my Wife aud deare Cosin to St. Germains, and 
 kissed the Queene-mother's hand ; din'd with my L. Keeper and Lord 
 Hatton. Divers of the greate men of France came to see the King ; 
 the next day came the Prince of Conde. Returning to Paris we went 
 to see the President Maison's Palace, built castlewise of a milk-white 
 fine freestone ; the house not vast, but well contriv'd, especialy the 
 staire-case and the ornaments of Putti about it. 'Tis inviron'd in a dry 
 moate, the offices under-ground, the gardens very excellent with extra- 
 ordinary long walkes set with elmes, and a noble prospect towards the 
 forest and on the Seine towards Paris. Take it altogether, the meadows, 
 walkes, river, forest, corne-ground, and vineyards, I hardly saw any 
 thing in Italy exceede it. The yron gates are very magnificent. He has 
 pulled downe a whole village to make roome for his pleasure about it. 
 
240 
 
 [PARIS. 1649. 
 
 12. Dr. Crighton, a Scotchman and one of his Ma ties Chaplaines, a 
 learned Grecian who set out y e Council of Florence, preached. 
 
 13. The King invited y e Prince of Conde' to supper at St. Cloud ; 
 there I kiss'd the Duke of York's hand in y e Tennis Court, where I 
 saw a famous match 'twixt Mons r . Saumeurs and Col. Cooke, and so 
 returned to Paris. 'Twas noised about that I was knighted, a dignity 
 I often declin'd. 
 
 1 Oct. Went with my cousin Tuke (afterwards Sir Samuel) to see y e 
 fountaines of St. Cloud and Ruel, and after dinner to talke with y e poore 
 ignorant and superstitious Anchorite at Mount Calvary, and so to Paris. 
 
 2. Came Mr. William Coventrie (afterwards S r Will m ) & the Duke's 
 Secretary, &c. to visite me. 
 
 5; Dined with Sir George Radcliffe y e greate favourite of the late 
 Earle of Strafford, formerly Lord Deputy of Ireland, decapitated. 
 
 7- To the Louvre to visite the Countesse of Morton, Governesse to 
 Madame. 
 
 15. Came news of Drogheda being taken by y e Rebells and all put to 
 y e sword, w ch made us very sad, fore-running the losse of all Ireland. 
 
 21. I went to heare Dr. D'Avinson's lecture in y e physical garden, 
 and see his laboratorie, he being Prefect of y* excellent Garden and 
 Professor Botanicus. 
 
 30. I was at y e funerall of one Mr. Downes, a sober English 
 gentleman. We accompanied his corpse to Charenton, where he was 
 interr'd in a cabbage-garden, yet with the office of our Church, w ch was 
 said before In our Chapell at Paris. Here I saw also where they buried 
 y e greate Souldier Gassion, who had a tombe built over him like a foun- 
 taine, the designe and materials meane enough. I returned to Paris 
 with Sir Phil: Musgrave, & Sir Marmaduk Langdale, since Lord Lang- 
 dale. — Memorandum. This was a very sickly and mortal Autumne. 
 
 5 Nov. I receiv'd divers letters out of England, requiring me to 
 come over about settling some of my concerns. 
 
 7- Dr. George Morley (since Bishop of Winchester) preach'd in 
 our Chapell on Matt: 4. verse 3. 
 
 18. I went with my Father-in-law to his audience at the French 
 Court, where next the Pope's Nuncio he was introduced by y e Master 
 
PARIS. 
 
 241 
 
 of Ceremonies, and after delivery of his credentials, as from our King 
 since his Father's murder, he was most graciously receiv'd hy the King 
 of France and his Mother, with whom he had a long audience. This 
 was in the Palais Cardinal. 
 
 After this, heing presented to his Majesty and y e Queene Regent, 
 I went to see y e house built hy y e late greate Cardinal de Richelieu. 
 The most observable thing is the gallerie painted w th the portraits of the 
 most illustrious persons and signal actions in France, with innumerable 
 emblemes 'twixt every table. In y e middle of y c gallery is a neate 
 chapell rarely paved in worke and devices of several! sorts of marble, 
 besides y e altar-piece and 2 statues of white marble, one of St. John, 
 y e other of y e Virgin Mary, by Bernini. The rest of y e apartments 
 are rarely gilded and carv'd, w th some good modern paintings. In 
 the presence hang 3 huge branches of chrystal. In y e French King's 
 bed-chamber is an alcove like another chamber, set as it were in a 
 chamber like a moveable box, with a rich embroidred bed. The fabric 
 of the Palace is not magnificent, being but of 2 stories, but the garden 
 is so spacious as to containe a noble basin and fountaine continually 
 playing, and there is a Mall, with an elbow or turning to protract it. 
 So I left his Majesty on y e terrace, buisie in seeing a bull-baiting, and 
 return'd home in Prince Edward's coach with Mr. Paule, y e Prince 
 Elector's agent. 
 
 19. Visited Mr. Waller, where meeting Dr. Holden, an English 
 Sorbonne Divine, we fell into some discourse about Religion. 
 
 28 Dec. Going to waite on Mr. Waller, I view'd St. Stephen's 
 Church; y e building tho' Gotic is full of carving ; within it is beautifull, 
 especialy the quire and winding staires. The glasse is well painted, and 
 the tapissry hung up this day about the quire, representing the conver- 
 sion of Constantine, was exceeding rich. 
 
 I went to that excellent engraver Du Bosse, for his instruction about 
 some difficulties in perspective which were delivered in his booke. 
 
 I concluded this yeare in health, for w ch I gave solemn thanks to 
 Almighty God*. 
 
 * This he does not fail to repeat at the end of every year, but it w ill not always be necessary to 
 insert it in this book. 
 
 VOL. I. 2 I 
 
242 
 
 [PARIS. 1G50. 
 
 29. I christned S r Hugh Rilies child with S r Geo. RadclifFe in our 
 Chapell, the parents being so poore that they had provided no gossips, 
 so as severall of us drawing lotts it fell on me, the Deane of Peterborow 
 (Dr. Cosin) officiating : We named it Andrew, being on the eve of y l 
 Apostle's day. 
 
 1650. Jan y 1. I began this Jubilie with y e publiq office in our Cha- 
 pell : din'd at my Lady Herbert's, wife of Sir Edw: Herbert, after- 
 wards Lord Keeper. 
 
 18. This night was y e Prince of Conde and his Brother carried pri- 
 soners to y e Bois de Vincennes. 
 
 Feb. 6. In the evening came Sign 1- Allessandro, one of y e Card 1 . 
 Mazarine's musitians, and a person of greate name for his knowledge in 
 y l art, to visite my wife, and sung before divers persons of quality in 
 my chamber. 
 
 1 March. I went to see y e masquerados w ch was very fantastic, 
 but nothing so quiet and solemn as I found it at Venice. 
 
 13. Saw a triumph in Moris', del Camp's Academie, where divers of 
 the French and English Noblesse, especialy my Lord of Ossorie, and 
 Richard, sonns to the Marquis of Ormond (afterwards Duke), did their 
 exercises on horseback in noble equipage, before a world of spectators 
 and greate persons, men and ladies. It ended in a collation. 
 
 Aprill 25. I went out of towne to see Madrid, a palace so call'd, 
 built by Francis y c First (see p. 45.) 'Tis observable onely for its open 
 manner of architecture, being much of tarraces and galleries one over 
 another to y e very rc )fe, and for y e materials, which are most of earth 
 painted like Porcelain or China-ware, whose colours appeare very fresh, 
 but is very fragile. There are whole statues and relievos ot this pot- 
 terie, chimney-pieces and columns both within and without. Under 
 the chapell is a chimny in the midst of a roome parted from the Salle 
 des Gci7 , des. The house is fortified with a deepe ditch, & has an admi- 
 rable vista towards the Bois de Boulogne & River. ' 
 
 30. I went to see y e collection of y e famous sculptor Steffano de la 
 Bella returning now into Italy, and bought some prints : and likewise 
 visited Perelle y e landskip graver. 
 
PARIS. 1650.] 
 
 243 
 
 3 May. At y e Hospital of La Charite I saw y e operation of cutting 
 for y e stone. A child of 8 or 9 yeares old underwent y e operation with 
 most extraordinary patience, and expressing greate joy when he saw the 
 stone was drawn. The use I made of it was to give Almighty God 
 hearty thankes that I had not ben subject to this deplorable infirmitie. 
 
 7- I went with S r Richard Browne's lady and my wife, together with 
 y e Earle of Chesterfield, Lord Ossorie and his brother, to Vamber, a 
 place neere y e Citty famous for butter ; when coming homewards, being 
 on foote, a quarrel arose between Lord Ossorie and a man in a garden, 
 who thrust Lord Ossorie from the gate with uncivil language, on which 
 our young gallants struck the fellow on the pate, and bid him aske par- 
 don, which he did with much submission, and so we parted ; but we 
 were not gon far before we heard a noise behind us, and saw people 
 coming with gunns, swords, staves, and forks, and who followed fling- 
 ing stones ; on which we turn'd and were forc'd to engage, and w th our 
 swords, stones, and the help of our servants (one of whom had a pistol) 
 made our retreate for neere a quarter of a mile, when we took shelter in 
 a house, where we were besieg'd, and at length forc'd to submit to be 
 prisoners. Lord Hatton with some others were taken prisoners in the 
 flight, and his lordship was confin'd under 3 locks and as many doores 
 in this rude fellow's master's house, who pretended to be steward to 
 Mons 1 . St. Germain, one of the Presidents of the Grand Chambre du 
 Parliament and a Canon of Notre Dame. Several 1 of us were much 
 hurt. One of our lacquies escaping to Paris, caused y e bailiff of St. 
 Germain to come with his guard and rescue us. Immediately afterwards 
 came Mons r . St. Germain himselfe in greate wrath on hearing that his 
 housekeeper was assaulted ; but when he saw the King's Officers, the 
 Gentlemen and Noblemen, with his Majesty's Resident, and understood 
 the occasion, he was ashamed of the accident, requesting the fellow's 
 pardon, and desiring the ladys to accept their submission and a supper 
 at his house. It was 10 o'clock at night ere we got to Paris, guarded 
 by Prince Griffith, (a Welch hero going under that name, and well 
 known in England for his extravagances,) together with the scholars of 
 two academies who came forth to assist and meete us on horseback, and 
 
244 [paris. 1C50. 
 
 would faine have alarm'd y e towne we receiv'd y e affront from, which 
 with much ado we prevented. 
 
 12. Complaint being come to y e Queene and Court of France of y e 
 affront we had receiv'd, the President was ordered to aske pardon of S r 
 R. Browne, his Majesty's Resident, and the fellow to make submission 
 and be dismiss'd. There came along with him President de Thou, sonn 
 of the greate Thuanus [the historianj, and so all was compos'd. But 
 I have often heard that gallant gentleman my Lord Ossorie affirme so- 
 lemnly that in all the conflicts he ever was in at sea or on land, (in the 
 most desperate of both which he had often ben) he believ'd he was never 
 in so much danger as when these people rose against us. He us'd to 
 call it the battaill de Pambre, and remember it with a greate deale of 
 mirth as an adventure en cavalier. 
 
 24. We were invited by the Noble Academies to a running at y p 
 Ring, where were many brave horses, gallants and ladys, my Lord 
 Stanhope entertaining us w th a collation. 
 
 12 June. Being Trinity Sunday the Dean of Peterborough preach'd; 
 after which there was an ordination of two Divines, Durell and Brevent 
 (y e one was afterwards Deane of Windsor, y e other of Durham, both 
 very learned persons). The Bishop of Galloway officiated with greate 
 gravity, after a pious and learned exhortation declaring y e weight and 
 dignitie of their function, especialy now in a time of y e poore Church of 
 England's affliction ; he magnified y e sublimity of the calling, from the 
 object, viz. the salvation of men's soules, and the glory of God ; pro- 
 ducing many humane instances of the transitorinesse and vanity of all 
 other dignities ; that of all the triumphs the Roman Conquerors made, 
 none was comparable to y* of our Blessed Saviours when he lead Cap- 
 tivitie captive, and gave gifts to men, namely that of the Holy Spirit, by 
 which his faithfull and painefull Ministers triumphed over Satan as oft 
 as they reduc'd a sinner from the errour of his ways. He then pro- 
 ceeded to y e ordination. They were presented by the Deane in their 
 surplices before the altar, the Bishop sitting in a chaire at one side ; 
 and so were made both Deacons and Priests at y e same time, in re- 
 guard to the necessitie of the times, there being so few Bishops left in 
 England, and consequently danger of a failure of both functions. 
 
i 
 
PARIS. l^jO.] 
 
 245 
 
 Lastly they proceeded to y e Communion. This was all perform'd in 
 Sir Richard Browne's Chapell at Paris. 
 
 13 June. I sate to the famous sculptor Nanteuil, who was after- 
 wards made a knight by the French King for his art. He engrav'd 
 my picture in copper*. At a future time he presented me with my 
 own picture-f*, done all with a pen ; an extraordinary curiosity. 
 
 21 June. I went to see the Samaritan or Pump at y e end of y e Pont 
 Neuf, which tho' to appearance promising no greate matter, is, besides 
 the machine, furnish'd with innumerable rarities both of art and na- 
 ture ; especialy y e costly Grotto, where are the fairest corals growing 
 out of y e very rock, that I have seen; also great pieces of chrystal, 
 amethysts, gold in y e mine, and other mettals and marcasites, with 
 two greate conchas, which the owner told us cost him 200 crownes at 
 Amsterdam. He shew'd us many landskips and prospects very rarely 
 painted in miniature, some with the pen and crayon ; divers antiquities 
 and relievos of Rome ; above all, that of the inside of the Amphitheater 
 of Titus incomparably drawn by Mons r . St. ClereJ himselfe ; two bovs 
 and three skeletons moulded by Fiamingo ; a booke of statues with the 
 pen made for Hen. IV. rarely executed, and by which one may dis- 
 cover many errors in the taille douce of Perrier, who has added divers 
 conceits of his owne that are not in y e originals. He has likewise an 
 infinite collection of taille douces richly bound in Morocco. He led us 
 into a stately chamber furnish'd to have entertain'd a prince, with pic- 
 tures of the greatest masters, especialy a Venus of Perino del Vaga ; 
 y e Putti carved in the chimney-piece by the Fleming ; the vasas of 
 porcelan, and many design'd by Raphael ; some paintings of Poussin 
 and Fioravanti ; antiques in brasse ; the looking-glasse and stands 
 rarely carved. In a word, all was greate, choice and magnificent, and 
 not to be pass'd by as I had often don, without the least suspicion that 
 there were such rare things to be seene in that place. At a future visit 
 he shew'd a new grotto and bathing-place, hew'd thro' y e battlements 
 
 * Now in the Library at Wotton, an impression from which is here given. 
 
 f Also those of his Lady and Sir R. Browne, which are also at Wotton, most beautifully executed. 
 
 X This was the name of the owner. 
 
246 
 
 [1650. 
 
 of y e arches of Pont Neuf, into a wide vault at y e intercolumniation, so 
 that y e coaches and horses thunder'd over our heads. 
 
 27 June. I made my will, and taking leave of my wife and other 
 friends tooke horse for England, paying the Messager 8 pistoles for me 
 and my servant to Calais, setting out with 17 in company well arm'd, 
 some Portugezes, Swisse and French, whereof 6 were Captaines and 
 Officers. We came the first night to Beaumont ; next day to Beauvais, 
 and lay at Pois, and the next, without dining, reach'd Abbeville ; next 
 din'd at Montreuil, and proceeding met a company of foote (being now 
 within the inroades of the parties which dangerously infest this day's 
 journey from St. Omers and the Frontiers) which we drew very neere 
 to, ready and resolute to charge through, and accordingly were order'd 
 and led by a captaine of our traine ; but as we were on y e speede, they 
 cal'd out, and prov'd to be Scotchmen newly rais'd and landed, and few 
 arm'd among them. This night we were well treated at Boilogne. 
 The next day we march'd in good order, the passage being now ex- 
 ceeding dangerous, and got to Calais by a little after 2. The sun so 
 scorch'd my face that it made y e skin peel off. 
 
 I din'd with Mr. Booth his Majesty's Agent, and about 3 in y e af- 
 ternoone imbark'd in the packet-boat : hearing there was a pirate then 
 also setting saile, we had security from molestation, and so with a fair 
 S. W. wind, in 7 hours we landed at Dover. The buisy watchman 
 would have us to the Major to be searched, but the gent, being in bed 
 we were dismiss'd. 
 
 Next day, being Sonday, they would not permit us to ride post, so 
 that afternoone our trunks were visited. 
 
 The next morning by 4 we sat out for Canterbury, where I met with 
 my Lady Catherine Scot, whom that very day twelve months before I 
 met at sea going for France ; she had ben visiting S r Tho. Peyton not 
 far off, and would needes carry me in her coach to Gravesend. We 
 din'd at Sittingbourn, came late to Gravesend, and so to Deptford, 
 taking leave of my lady about 4 the next morning. 
 
 5th July. I supped in the Citty with my Lady Cath. Scott at 
 Mr. Dubois, where was a gentlewoman call'd Everard, that was a very 
 great Chymist. 
 
1650.] 
 
 247 
 
 Sunday 7 July. In the afternoone having a mind to see what was 
 doing among the Rebells, then in full possession at White-hall, I went 
 thither and found one at exercise in the Chapell, after their way ; thence 
 to St. James's, where another was preaching in the Court abroad. 
 
 17. I went to London to obtain a passe, intending but a short stay 
 in England. 
 
 25th. I went by Epsom to Wotton, saluting S r Rob. Cook and my 
 sister Glanvill ; the country was now much molested by souldiers, who 
 tooke away gentlemen's horses for the service of the State as then call'd. 
 
 4 Aug. 1 heard a sermon at the Rolls ; and in the afternoone wan- 
 der'd to divers churches, the pulpits full of novices and novelties. 
 
 6th. To Mr. Walker's, a good painter, who shew'd me an excellent 
 copie of Titian. 
 
 12 July. Sat out for Paris, taking post at Gravesend, and so that 
 night to Canterbury, where being surpriz'd by the souldiers, and 
 having only an antiquated passe, with some fortunate dexterity I got 
 cleare of them, tho' not without extraordinary hazard, having before 
 counterfeited one with successe, it being so difficult to procure one of 
 the Rebells without entering into oathes, which I never would do. 
 At Dover money to the searchers and officers was as authentic] as the 
 hand and seale of Bradshaw himselfe, where I had not so much as my 
 trunk open'd. 
 
 13. At 6 in the evening set saile for Calais, the wind not favour- 
 able I was very sea sick, coming to an anker about one o'clock ; about 
 five in the morning we had a long boate to carry us to land tho' at a 
 good distance ; this we willingly enter'd, because two vessells were 
 chasing us, but being now almost at the harbour's mouth, thro' inad- 
 vertency there brake in upon us two such heavy seas as had almost 
 sunk the boate, I being neere the middle up in water. Our steeresman 
 it seemes apprehensive of the danger was preparing to leape into y e sea 
 and trust to swimming, but seeing the vessell emerge, he put her into 
 the Pier, and so, God be thanked ! we got to Calais, tho' wett. 
 
 Here I waited for company, y e passage towards Paris being still in- 
 fested with volunteers from the Spanish frontiers. 
 
248 
 
 [FRANCE. 1650. 
 
 16. The Regiment of Picardy, consisting of about 1400 horse and 
 foote (amongst them was a Capt. whom I knew), being come totowne, 
 I took horses for myselfe and servant, and march'd under their protec- 
 tion to Boulogne. 'Twas a miserable spectacle to see how these tatter'd 
 souldiers pillag'd y e poore people of their sheepe, poultry, corne, catell, 
 and whatever came in their way ; but they had such ill pay that they 
 were ready themselves to starve. 
 
 As we pass'd St. Denis the people were in uproar, y e guards doubl'd, 
 and every body running with their moveables to Paris, on an alarme 
 that the Enemy was within 5 leagues of them, so miserably expos'd 
 was even this part of France at this time. 
 
 The 30th I got to Paris, after an absence of two moneths onely. 
 1 Sept. My Lady Herbert invited me to dinner ; Paris, and indeede 
 all France being full of loyall fugitives. 
 
 Came Mr. Waller to see me, about a child of his which the Popish 
 midwife had baptized. 
 
 Oct. 15. S r Tho. Osborn (afterwards Lord Treasurer) and Lord 
 Stanhop shot for a wager of 5 Louis to be spent on a treat ; they shot 
 so exact that it was a drawn match. 
 
 Nov. 1. Took leave of my Lord Stanhop going on his journey to- 
 wards Italy : also visited my L' 1 Hatton, Comptroller of his Ma tus 
 Household, the Countesse of Morton Governesse to the Lady Hen- 
 rietta, and Mrs. Garder one of the Queen's Maids of Honour. 
 
 6. S r Tho. Osborn supping with us, his groome was set upon in 
 the streete before our house and receiv'd two wounds, but gave the 
 assassin nine, who was carried off to the Charite' hospital. S r Tho. 
 went for England on the 8th, and carried divers letters for me to my 
 friends. 
 
 16. I went to Mons r Visse's, the French King's Secretary, to a con- 
 cert of French music and voices, consisting of 24, two theorbo's and but 
 one bass viol, being a rehearsal of what was to be sung at vespers at 
 St. Cecilia's, on her feast, she being patronesse of Musitians. News 
 ariv'd of the death of the Pr. of Orange of the small pox. 
 
 14 Dec. I went to visite Mr. Ratcliffe, in whose lodging was an 
 impostor that had like to have impos'd upon us a pretended secret of 
 
PARIS. 1650-1.] 
 
 249 
 
 multiplying gold ; 'tis certain he had liv'd some time in Paris in extra- 
 ordinarie splendor, but I found him. to be an egregious chcate. 
 
 22. Came the learned Dr. Boet to visite me. 
 
 31. I gave God thanks for his mercy and protection the past yeare, 
 and made up my accompts, which came this yeare to 7015 livres, neere 
 ,§€.600 sterling. 
 
 1651. 1 Jan. I wrote to my brother at Wotton about his garden 
 and fountaines. After evening Prayer Mr. Wainsford called on me : 
 he had long ben Consul at Aleppo, and told me many strange things 
 of those countries, the Arabs especially. 
 
 2/. I had letters of the death of Mrs. Newton, my grandmother-in- 
 law ; she had a most tender care of me during my childhood, and was a 
 woman of extraordinarie charity and piety. 
 
 29. Dr. Duncan preached on 8 Matt. 34, shewing the mischiefe of 
 covetousnesse. My L d Marq. of Ormond and Inchiqueen, come newly 
 out of Ireland, were this day at Chapell. 
 
 9 Feb. Card 1 Mazarine was proscrib'd by Arret du Parlement, and 
 great commotions began in Paris. 
 
 23. I went to see the Bonnes Hommes, a Convent that has a fayr 
 cloister painted with y e lives of the Eremites ; a glorious altar now 
 erecting in the chapell ; the garden on a rock with divers descents, with 
 a fine vineyard and a delicate prospect towards the Citty. 
 
 24. I went to see a Dromedarie, a very monstrous beaste, much 
 like the Camel but larger. There was also dauncing on the rope ; but 
 above all surprizing to those who were ignorant of the addresse, was the 
 water-spouter *, who drinking only fountaine water, rendred out of his 
 mouth in aeverall glasses all sorts of wine and sweete waters, &c. For 
 a piece of money he discover'd the secret to me. I waited on Frier 
 Nicholas at the Convent at Challiot, who being an excellent chymist 
 shew'd me his Laboratorie and rare collection of Spagyrical remedies. 
 He was both physitian and apothecarie of y e Convent, and insteade of 
 y e names of his drogues, painted his boxes and potts with y e figure of 
 y* drug or simple contain'd in them. He shew'd me as a raritie some 
 
 * Floria'n Marchand. He afterwards exhibited himself in England, 
 his exploits is a wood-cut of hitn. 
 
 VOL. I. 2 K 
 
 Prefixed to an Account of 
 
250 
 
 [PARIS. 1651. 
 
 £ of antimonie * : he had curd Mons' Senetan of a desperate sicknesse, 
 for w ch there was building a monumental altar that was to cost ,§£=.1500. 
 
 11th Mareh. I went to the Chatelet or Prison, where a malefactor 
 was to have the question or torture given to -him, he refusing to con- 
 fess the robbery with which he was charg'd, which was thus : they 
 first bound his wrist with a strong rope or small cable, and one end of 
 it to an iron ring made fast to y e wall about 4 foote from y e fioore, and 
 then his feete with another cable, fastned about 5 foot farther than his 
 uttmost length to another ring on the floore of the roome : thus sus- 
 pended and yet lying but aslant, they slid an horse of wood under the rope 
 w ch bound his feete, which soexceedingly stifFned it, as sever'd the fellow's 
 joynts in miserable sort, drawing him out at length in an extraordinary 
 manner, he having onely a paire of linnen drawers on his naked body : 
 then they questioned him of a robbery (the Lieutenant Criminal being 
 present, and a clearke that wrote), which not confessing, they put an 
 higher horse under the rope, to increase the torture and extension. In 
 this agonie, confessing nothing, the Executioner with a home (just 
 such as they drench horses with) stuck the end of it into his mouth, 
 and poured the quantity of two bouketts of water down his throat and 
 over him, which so prodigiously swelled him, as would have pittied and 
 affrighted any one to see it ; for all this, he denied all that was charged 
 to him. They then let him downe, and carried him before a warme 
 fire to bring him to himselfe, being now to all appearance dead w' h 
 paine. What became of him I know not ; but the gent, whom he 
 robbed constantly averr'd him to be the man, and the fellows suspitious 
 pale lookes, before he knew he shold be rack'd, betraied some guilt : The 
 Lieutenant was also of y l opinion, and told us at first sight (for he was 
 a leane, dry, black young man) he would conquer the torture : and so 
 it seemes they could not hang him, but did use in such cases, where the 
 evidence is very presumptive, to send them to the gallies, which is as 
 bad as death. 
 
 There was another Malefactor to succeede, but the spectacle was so 
 uncomfortable, that I was not able to stay the sight of another. It 
 
 Qu. some preparation of it ; since perfected by Dr. James., whose name it now bears. 
 
 / 
 
PARIS. 
 
 251 
 
 represented yet to me, the intollerable sufferings which our Blessed 
 Saviour must needes undergo when his body was hanging with all its 
 weight upon the nailes on the crosse. 
 
 20. I went this night with my wife to a Ball at the Marquiss de 
 Crevecceur's. where were divers Princes, Dukes and greate persons, but 
 what appeared to me very meane was that it began w' h a puppet-play. 
 
 6 May. I attended the Ambassador to a Masque at Court, where 
 the French King in person daunced five enterics : but being iugag'd in 
 discourse and better entertained with one of the Queene Regent's Secre- 
 taries, I soon left the entertainment. 
 
 11. To the Palais Cardinal, where y e Mast r of Ceremonies plac'd 
 me to see y e royal masque or opera. The first sceane represented a 
 chariot of singers compos'd of the rarest voices that could be procur'd, 
 representing Cornaro* and Temperance; this was overthrowne by 
 Bacchus and his Revellers : the rest consisted of severall enteries and 
 pageants of excesse, by all the Elements. A Masque representing Fire 
 was admirable ; then came a Venus out of y e Clouds. The conclusion 
 was an Heaven whither all ascended. But the glory of the Masque 
 was the greate persons performing in it, the French King, his brother 
 the Duke of Anjou, with all the Grandees of the Court, the King per- 
 forming to the admiration of all. The music was 29 violins vested 
 a i'antiq, but the habits of the Masquers were stupendously rich and 
 glorious. 
 
 23 May. I went to take leave of y e Ambass rs for Spaine, which 
 were my Lord Treass r Cottington and S r Edw. Hide ; and as I return'd 
 I visited Mr Morine's-j' garden and his other rarities, especialy coralls, 
 minerals, stones, and natural curiosities ; crabs of y e Red Sea, the body 
 no bigger than a small bird's egg, but flatter, and the 2 leggs or 
 claws a foote in length. He had aboundance of shells, at least 1000 
 sorts, which furnish'd a cabinet of greate price ; and had a very cu- 
 rious collection of scarabees and insects, of which he was compiling a 
 natural historic He had also the pictures of his choice flowers and 
 plants in miniature. He told me there were 10,000 sorts of tulips 
 
 * The famous Venetian writer on Temperance. 
 
 f See p. 55. 
 
252 
 
 [PARIS. 
 
 onely. He had taille douces out of number; the head of y e rynoceros 
 bird, which was very extravagant, and one butterflie resembling a per 
 feet bird. 
 
 25. I went to visit Mr. White, a learned priest and famous philo- 
 sopher, author of the booke De Mundo, with whose worthy brother I 
 was well acquainted at Rome. I was shew'd a cabinet of Maroquin or 
 Turkey leather, so curiously inlaid w th other leather, and guilding, that 
 the workman demanded for it 800 livres. 
 
 The Dean (of Peterboro') preach'd on y e feast of Pentecost, per- 
 stringing those of Geneva for their irreverence of y e Blessed Virgin. 
 
 4 June. Trinity Sunday I was absent from Church in y e afternoone 
 on a charitable affaire for the Abbesse of Boucharvant, who but for 
 me had been abus'd by that chymist Du Menie*. Returning I stept 
 into y e grand Jesuites, who had this high day expos'd their Ci barium, 
 made all of solid gold and imagerie, a piece of infinite cost. Dr. Croy- 
 don, coming out of Italy and from Padua, came to see me on his return 
 to England. 
 
 5. I accompanied my L. Strafford and some other noble persons to 
 heare Madame Lavaran sing, w th she did both in French and Italian 
 excellently well, but her voice was not strong. 
 
 7 June, Corpus Christi Day, there was a grand procession, all the 
 streetes tapisstred, severall altars erected there, full of images and 
 other rich furniture, especialy that before the Court, of a rare designe 
 and architecture. There were aboundance of excellent pictures and 
 great vases of silver. 
 
 13. I went to see y e collection of one Mons r Poignant, which for 
 variety of achates, chrystals, onyxes, porcelain, medails, statues, relievos, 
 paintings, taille douces and antiquities, might compare with the Italian 
 virtuosos. 
 
 21. I became acquainted w th S r W ra Curtius, a very learned and 
 judicious person of the Palatinate. He had ben scholar to Alstedius 
 the Encyclopedist, was well advanced in yeares, and now Resident for 
 his Ma tie at Frankfort. 
 
 * Qu. The person mention'd in page 248 as pretending to have found out y e art of multiplying gold 5 
 
paris. 165 1. j 253 
 
 2 July. Came to see me the Earle of Strafford, Lord Qst>ory and his 
 Brother, S r John Southcott, S r Edw: Stawell, two of my Lord Spen- 
 cer's Sonns, and Dr. Stewart Deane of St. Paules, a learned and pious 
 man, where we entertained the time upon severall suhjects, especialy 
 the affaires of England and the lamentable condition of our Church. 
 The Lord Gerrard also called to see my collection of sieges and battles. 
 
 2.1 July. An extraordinary fast was celebrated in our Chapell, Dr. 
 Steward Dean of St. Paul's preaching. 
 
 2 Aug. I went with my wife to Conflans, where were aboundance 
 of ladys and others bathing in the river; the ladys had their tents 
 spread on the water for privacy. 
 
 29 Aug. Was kept as a solemne Fast for the calamities of ourpoore 
 Church now trampled on by y e Rebells. Mr. Waller being at St. Ger- 
 mains, desir'd me to send him a coach from Paris to bring my wife's 
 god-daughter to Paris, to be buried by the Common Prayer. 
 
 6 Sept. I went with my wife to St. Germains to condole with Mr. 
 Waller's losse. I carried with me and treated at dinner that excellent 
 and pious person the Deane of St. Paul's Dr. Steward, and Sir Lewes 
 Dives (half-brother to y e Earle of Bristol} who entertain'd us with 
 his wonderful escape out of prison in White-hall the very evening before 
 he was to have ben put to death, leaping down out of a jakes two 
 stories high into the Thames at high water, in the coldest of winter 
 and at night; so as by swimming he got to a boate that attended for 
 him, tho' he was guarded by six musqueteeres. After this he went 
 about in womens habite, and then in a small-coale-man's, travelling 
 200 miles on foote, embark'd for Scotland with some men he had 
 raised, who coming on-shore were all surpriz'd and imprison'd on y e 
 Marq. of Montrose's score, he not knowing any thing of their barbarous 
 murder of that hero. This he told us was his fifth escape, and none 
 less miraculous, with this note, that the chargeing thro' 1000 men 
 arm'd, or whatever danger could befall a man, he belie v'd could not 
 more confound and distract a man's thoughts than the execution of a 
 premeditated escape, the passions of hope and feare being so strong. 
 This knight was indeede a valiant gentleman, but not a little given to 
 romance when he spake of himselfe. I returned to Paris the same 
 evening. 
 
254 [par is. ttfgi. 
 
 / Sept. I went to visite Mr. Hobbs, the famous philosopher of 
 Malmsbury, with whom I had long acquaintance. From his window 
 we saw y e whole equipage and glorious cavalcade of the young French 
 Monarch Lewis XIV. passing to Parliament when first he tooke the 
 kingly government on him, now being in his 14th yeare, out of his 
 minority and y e Queene Regent's pupillage. First came y e captaine of 
 the King's aydes at the head of 50 richly liveried ; next the Queene 
 Mother's light horse, an hundred, the lieutenant being all over cover'd 
 with embroiderie and ribbans, having before him 4 trumpets habited in 
 black velvet, full of lace and casques of y c same; then the King's 
 light horse, 200, richly habited, with 4 trumpets in blue velvet em- 
 brodred with gold, before whom rid y a Count d'Olonne coronet [cornet] 
 whose belt was set with pearle ; next went y e grand Prevost's companv 
 on foote w th y e Prevost on horseback ; after them the Swisse in black 
 velvet toques led by 2 gallant cavalieres habited in scarlet-colour'd 
 sattin after their country fashion, which is very fantastick : he had in 
 his cap a pennach of heron with a band of diamonds, and about him 12 
 little Swisse boyes with halberds ; then came t\\Qj4ydes des Ceremonies ; 
 next the grandees of court, governors of places, and lieutenants gen 1 , of 
 provinces, magnificently habited and mounted, among whom I must 
 not forget the Chevalier Paul, famous for many sea-fights and signal 
 exploits there, because 'tis said he had never been an Academist, and 
 yet govern'd a very unruly horse, and besides his rich suite, his Malta 
 Cross was esteem'd at 10,000 crownes ; these were headed by 2 
 trumpets, and the whole troup cover'd with gold, jewels, and rich 
 caparisons, were follow'd by 6 trumpets in blew velvet also, preceeding 
 as many heralds in blew velvet semee with fleurs de lys, caduces in 
 their hands and velvet caps on their heads ; behind them came one 
 of the mast" of y e ceremonies ; then divers marishalls & many of 
 the nobility, exceeding splendid ; behind them Count d'Harcourt, 
 grand eseuyer, alone, carrying the King's sword in a scarf, w ch he 
 held up in a blew sheath studded w th fleurs de lys ; his horse had 
 lor reines 2 scarfs of black taffata ; then came aboundance of footemen 
 and pages of the King, new liveried with white and red feathers ; next 
 y e guard de corps and other officers ; and lastly appear'd the King him- 
 
PARIS. 1651.] 255 
 
 selfe on an Isabella Barb, on a houssing semee with crosses of y e 
 Order of the Holy Ghost, and fleurs de lys; the King himselfe like a 
 voung Apollo, was in a sute so cover'd with rich embrodry, that one 
 could perceive nothing of the stuff under it ; he went almost the whole 
 way with his hat in hand, saluting the ladys and acclamators who 
 had fill'd the windows with their beauty, and the aire w th Vive le Roi/. 
 He seem'd a prince of a grave yet sweete countenance. After the King, 
 follow'd divers greate persons of y e Court exceeding splendid, also his 
 esquires, masters of horse on foote, then the company of Exempts des 
 Gards, and 6 guards of Scotch; 'twixt their files were divers princes of 
 y e blood, dukes, and lords ; after all these, the Queene's guard of 
 Svvisse, pages, and footemen ; then the Queene Mother herselfe in a 
 rich coach, w th Monsieur y e King's brother, the Duke of Orleans, and 
 some other lords and ladys of honour ; about the coach march'd her 
 Exempts des Gards, then the company of the King's Gens d'armes 
 well mounted, 150, with 4 trumpets and as many of the Queene's; 
 lastly, an innumerable company of coaches full of ladys and gallants. 
 In this equipage pass'd the Monarch to y e Parliament, henceforth 
 exercising his kingly government. 
 
 15 Sept. I accompanied S r Rich J Browne, my father-in-law, to 
 the French Court, where he had a favourable audience of the French 
 King and the Queene his Mother, congratulating the one on his 
 coming to y e exercise or his royal charge, and the other's prudent and 
 happy administration during her late Regency, desiring both to preserve 
 y e same amitie for his Master, our King, as they had hitherto don, 
 which they both promis'd with many civil expressions and words of 
 course upon such occasions. We were accompanied both going and 
 returning by y e Introductor of Ambassadors and Ayd of Ceremonies. 1 
 also saw y e audience of Marosini y L ' Ambassador of Venice, and divers 
 other Ministers of State from German Princes, Savoy, &c. After- 
 wards I tooke a walke in y e King's gardens, where I observ'd that the 
 Mali gos the whole square thereof next y e wall, and bends with an 
 angle so made as to glace [glance] y c hall; the angle is of stone. 
 There's a basin at the end of the garden fed by a noble fountaine and 
 high jetto. There were in it 2 or 3 boatca in w ch the King now and 
 
256 [paris. 1651. 
 
 then rovves about. In another part is a compleate fort, made with 
 bastions, graft, halfe-moones, ravelins, and furnish' d w th greate gunns 
 cast on purpose to instruct the King in fortification. 
 
 22. Ariv'd y e news of y e fatal battaill at Worcester, which exceed- 
 ingly mortified our expectations. 
 
 28. I was shew'd a collection of books and prints made for the D. 
 of York. 
 
 1 Oct. The Dean of Peterborough [Dr. CosinJ preach'd on 13 
 Job v. 15, encouraging our trust in God on all events and extremities, 
 and for establishing and comforting some ladys of greate qualitie, who 
 were then to be discharg'd from our Q. Mother's service, unlesse they 
 would go over to y e Romish Masse. 
 
 The Dean dining this day at our house, told me the occasion of pub- 
 lishing those Offices which among the Puritans were wont to be call'd 
 Cosins cousining Devotions* , by way of derision. At the first coming 
 of the Queene into England, she and her French ladys were often 
 upbraiding our religion, that had neither appointed nor set forth any 
 houres of prayer or breviaries, by which ladies and courtiers, who have 
 much spare time, might edify and be in devotion as they had. Our 
 Protestant ladys, scandaliz'd it seemes at this, mov'd the matter to y e 
 King, whereupon his Ma^ presently call'd Bishop White to him, 
 and asked his thoughts of it, and whether there might not be found 
 some formes of prayer proper on such occasions, collected out of some 
 already approv'd formes, that so the court ladys and others (who spend 
 much time in trifling) might at least appeare as devout, and be so too, 
 as the new-come-over French ladys, who tooke occasion to reproch our 
 want of zeale and religion. On w ch the Bishop told his Ma'^ that it 
 might be don easily and was very necessary ; whereupon y e King com- 
 manded him to employ some person of y e Cleargy to compile such a 
 work, and presently y e Bishop naming Dr. Cosin y e King injoyn'd him 
 
 * So called by Mr. Prynne in his brief survey of this book. The Dean was sequestered from all 
 his preferments by the Parliament, and went abroad to Paris 1643. He kept up the service of the 
 Church of England in Sir Richard Browne's chapel there, see pp. 244, 2S2. On the Restoration 
 he was made Bishop of Durham, to which See, as well a9 to Peter House, at Cambridge, of which 
 he had been Master, he was a most munificent benefactor. He died in 1671. Sec Biog. Brit, the 
 new Edition by Dr. Kippis. 
 
PARIS. 1651.] 257 
 
 to charge y e D r in his name to set about it immediately. This the 
 Dean told me he did, and 3 monethes after bringing the booke to y e 
 King, he commanded y e Bishop of London to reade it over and make 
 his report ; this was so well lik'd that (contrary to former custome of 
 doing it by a chaplain) he would needes give it an imprimatur under 
 his owne hand. Upon this there were at first onely 200 copies printed ; 
 nor, said he, was there any thing in y ( whole book of my owne com- 
 posure, nor did I set any name as author to it, but those necessarv 
 prefaces, &c. out of the Fathers, touching the times and seasons of 
 prayer, all the rest being intirely translated and collected out of an 
 Office published by authority of Q. Elizabeth, a° 1560, and our owne 
 Liturgie. This I rather mention to justify that industrious and pious 
 Deane, who had exceedingly suffer'd by it, as if he had don it of his 
 owne head to introduce Popery, from which no man was more averse, 
 and one who in this time of temptation and apostacy held and confirm'd 
 many to our Church *. 
 
 29 Oct 1 . Came newes and letters to the Queeneand S r Rich. Browne 
 (who was y e first that had intelligence of it) of his Ma^' s miraculous 
 escape after y e fight at Worcester, which exceedingly rejoiced us. 
 
 7 Nov. I visited S r Kenelm Digby, with whom I had much discourse 
 of chymical matters. I shew'd him a particular way of extracting oyle 
 of sulphur, and he gave me a certaine powder w th w ch he affirm'd that 
 he had fix'd £ (mercury) before the late King ; he advis'd me to try 
 and digest a little better, and gave me a water w ch he said was onelv 
 raine water of the autumnal equinox exceedingly rectified, very volatile ; 
 it had a taste of a strong vitriol iq, and smelt like aqua fortis. He in- 
 tended it for a dissolvent of calx of gold ; but the truth is, Sir Kenelm 
 was an errant mountebank. — Came newes of y e gallant Earl of Derbv's 
 execution by y e Rebells. 
 
 * The Clergy who attended y e English Court in France at this time and are mentioned to have 
 officiated in S r Rich d Browne's Chapel were : The Bishop of Galloway ; Dr. Geo. Morley, after- 
 wards Bishop of Winchester 5 Dr. Cosin, Dean of Peterborough, afterwards Bishop of Durham ; 
 Dr. Stewart, Dean of St. Paul's ; Dr. Earle ; Dr. Clare ; Dr. Wolley, no great Preacher ; Mr. 
 Crowder ; Dr. Lloyd ; Mr. Hamilton ; Dr. Duncan. 
 VOL. I. 2 L 
 
258 
 
 [PARIS. 1651. 
 
 12. Dr. Clare preach'd on 28 Gen. v. 20, 21, 22, upon Jacob's 
 vowe, which he appositely applied, it being y e first Sonday his Ma'y 
 came to Chapell after his escape. I went in the afternoone to visite 
 the Earle of Norwich ; he lay at y e Lord of Aubignies. 
 
 16. Visited Dean Stewart, who had ben sick about 2 daies, when 
 going up to his lodging I found him dead, which affected me much, as 
 besides his particular affection and love to me, he was of incomparable 
 parts and great learning, of exemplary life, and a very greate losse to y e 
 whole Church. He was buried y e next day with all our Church's cere- 
 monies, many noble persons accompanying the corps. 
 
 17. I went to congratulate y e marriage of Mrs. Gardner, maid of 
 honor, lately married to that odd person Sir Hen. Wood : but riches 
 do many things. 
 
 I went to see Mons r Febur's course of Chymistrie, where 1 found 
 S : Kenelm Digby and divers curious persons of learning and qua- 
 lity. It was his first opening the course and preliminarys in order to 
 operations, 
 
 1 Dec. I now resolv'd to returne into England. 
 
 3. Sir Lewis Dives din'd with us, who relating some of his adven- 
 tures, shew'd me divers pieces of broad gold which, being in his pocket, 
 in a fight, preserv'd his life by receiving a musket-bullet on them, 
 which deaden'd its violence so that it went no further, but made such a 
 stroake on the gold as fix'd the impressions upon one another, battering 
 and bending severall of them ; the bullet itselfe was flatted, and retain'd 
 on it the colour of the gold. He assur'd us that of an hundred of them, 
 which it seemes he then had in his pocket, not one escap'd without 
 some blemish. He affirm'd that his being protected by a Neapolitan 
 Prince who conniv'd at his bringing some horses into France, contrary 
 to the order of y e Vice-roy, by assistance of some banditti, was the oc- 
 casion of a difference betweene those greate men, and consequently of 
 y e late civil war in that kingdom, the Vice-roy having kill'd the Prince 
 standing on his defence at his owne castle. He told me that the second 
 time of the Scots coming into England, the King was six times their 
 number, and might easily have beaten them, but was betraied, as were 
 all other his designes and councils, by some, even of his bed-chamber. 
 
PARIS. 1651.] 
 
 259 
 
 meaning M. Hamilton, who copied Montrose's letters from time to 
 time when his Ma tv was asleepe. 
 
 11. Came to visite me Mr. Ohadiah Walker of University College, 
 w th his two Pupils the sons of my worthy friend Hen. Hyldiard, Esq.* 
 whom I had recommended to his care. 
 
 21. Came to visite my wife Mrs. Lane, the lady who conveied the 
 King to the sea-side at his escape from Worcester. Mr. John Cosin, 
 son to y e Dean, debauch'd by y e Priests, wrote a letter to me to me- 
 diate for him with his father. I prepar'd for my last journey, being 
 now resolv'd to leave France altogether. 
 
 25. The King and Duke receiv'd the Sacrament first by themselves, 
 y e Lords Biron and Wilmot holding y ( ' long towell all along the altar. 
 
 26. Came news of y e death of that Rebell Ireton. 
 
 31. Preached Dr. Wolley, after which was celebrated y e Holy 
 Communion, w h I received also, preparative of my journey, being now 
 resolved to leave France altogether, and to returne God Almighty 
 thanks for his gracious protection of me this past yeare. 
 
 1652, 2 Jan. News of my sister Glanville's death in childbed, 
 which exceedingly affected me. 
 
 I went to one Mark Antonio, an incomparable artist in enamailing. 
 He wrought by the lamp figures in bosse of a large size, even to y e life, 
 so that nothing could be better moulded. He told us greate stories 
 of a Genoese Jeweller who had the greate jlrcanum, and had made 
 projection before him severall times. He mett him at Cyprus travell- 
 ing into Egypt, in his returne from whence, he died at sea, and the 
 secret w th him, that else he had promis'd to have left it to him ; that 
 all his effects were seized on and dissipated by the Greekes in the ves- 
 sell to an immense value. He also affirm'd, that being in a Gold- 
 smith's shop at Amsterdam, a person of very low stature came in and 
 desir'd the goldsmith to mealt him a pound of lead, which don he un- 
 screw'd y e pummel of his sword, and taking out of a little box a small 
 quantity of powder, casting it into the crucible, pour'd an ingot out, 
 which when cold he tooke up, saying, " Sir, you will be paid for 
 
 * Of East Horsley in Surrey. 
 
260 [paris. 1G52. 
 
 your lead in the crucible," and so went out immediately. When he 
 was gon the goldsmith found 4 ounces of good gold in it, but could 
 never set eye againe on y e little man, tho' he sought all y e Citty for 
 him. This Antonio asserted with greate obtestation, nor know I what 
 to think of it, there are so many impostors and people who love to tell 
 strange stories, as this artist did, who had been a greate rover, and 
 spake 10 different languages. 
 
 13 Jan. I tooke leave of Mr. Waller, who having ben proscrib'd 
 by the Rebells, had obtain'd of them permission to returne, was going 
 to England. 
 
 29. Aboundance of my French and English friends and some Ger- 
 mans came to take leave of me, and I sat out in a coach for Calais, in 
 an exceeding hard frost which had continued some time. We got that 
 night to Beaumont; 30. to Beauvais ; 31. we found the ways very 
 deepe w th snow, and it was exceeding cold ; din'd at Pois ; lay at 
 Pernee, a miserable cottage of miserable people in a wood, wholly un- 
 furnish'd, but in a little time we had sorry beds and some provision, 
 w ch they told me they hid in y e wood for feare of the frontier enemy, 
 the garrisons neere them continually plundering what they had. They 
 were often infested with wolves. I cannot remember that I ever saw 
 more miserable creatures. 
 
 1 Feb. I din'd at Abbeville; 2. din'd at Montreuil, lay at Bol- 
 logne ; 3. came to Calais by 11 in the morning; I thought to have 
 embarqu'd in the evening, but for feare of Pyrates plying neere the 
 coast, I durst not trust our small vessell, and staid til Monday follow- 
 ing, when 2 or 3 lusty vessells were to depart. 
 
 1 brought with me from Paris Mr. Christ r . Wase, sometime before 
 made to resigne his fellowship in King's Coll. Cambridge, because he 
 would not take the Covenant. He had ben a souldier in Flanders, and 
 came miserable to Paris. From his excellent learning, and some rela- 
 tion he had to S' R. Browne, I bore his charges into England, and 
 clad and provided for him til he should find some better condition ; and 
 he was worthy of it*. There came with us also Capt. Griffith, Mr. 
 Tyrell, brother to S r Timothy Tyrell of Shotover (near Oxford). 
 
 * Mr. Evelyn did afterwards procure him a situation. 
 
1652.J 
 
 261 
 
 At Calais I dined with my L d Went worth, and met with Mr. Heath, 
 S r Rich d Lloyd, Capt. Paine, and divers of our banish'd friends, of 
 whom understanding that the Count de la Strade Governor of Dyn- 
 kirke was in the towne, who had bought my wife's picture, taken by 
 Pyrates at sea the year before (my wife having sent it for me in Eng- 
 land) as my Lord of Norwich had inform'd me at Paris, I made my 
 addresse to him, who frankly told me that he had such a picture in 
 his owne bed-chamber amongst other ladys, and how he came by it ; 
 seeming well pleas'd that it was his fortune to preserve it for me, and 
 he generously promis'd to send it to any friend I had at Dover ; I 
 mentioned a French merchant there, and so tooke my leave*. 
 
 6 Feb. I embark'd early in y e packet-boat, but put my goods in a 
 stouter vessel 1. 'Twas calm, so that we got not to Dover till 8 at 
 night. I tooke horse for Canterbury, and lay at Rochester; next day 
 to Gravesend, tooke a pair of oares, and landed at Sayes Court, where 
 I stayed 3 days to refresh and look after my packet and goods, sent by 
 a stouter vessell. I went to visit my co: Rich. Fanshawe, and divers 
 other friends. 
 
 March 6. Saw the magnificent funeral of that Arch-rebell Ireton, 
 carried in pomp from Somerset House to Westm r , accompanied with 
 divers regiments of souldiers horse and foote ; then marched y e 
 mourners, Gen 1 . Cromwell (his father-in-law), his mock-parliament- 
 men, officers, and 40 poore men in gownes, 3 led horses in housings 
 of black cloth, 2 led in black velvet, and his charging-horse all co- 
 ver'd over with embrodery and gold on crimson velvet; then the guy- 
 dons, ensignes, 4 heraulds carrying the armes of the State (as they 
 cal'd it), namely, y <; red crosse and Ireland, with the casq, wreath, 
 sword, spurrs, &c; next, a chariot canopied of black velvet and 6 
 horses, in which was the corps ; the pall held up by the mourners on 
 foote ; the mace and sword, with other marks of his charge in Ireland 
 (where he died of y e plague), carried before in black scarfs. Thus in a 
 grave pace, drums cover'd with cloth, souldiers reversing their armes, 
 they proceeded through the streetes in a very solemn manner. This 
 
 * The picture was afterwards sent accordingly, see p. 263. 
 
262 [1652. 
 
 Ireton was a stout rebell, and had ben very bloudy to the King's party, 
 witnesse his severity at Colchester, when in cold blood he put to death 
 those gallant gentlemen, Sir Cha. Lucas and Sir George Lisle. My 
 co. R. Fanshawe came to visite me and informe me of many consider- 
 able affaires. Sir Henry Herbert presented me with his brother my 
 L d Cherburie's book " De Veritate." 
 
 9. I went to Deptford, where I made preparation for my settle- 
 ment, no more intending to go out of England, but endeavour a settl'd 
 life, either in this or some other place, there being now so little appear- 
 ance of any change for the better, all being entirely in y° Rebells 
 hands, and this particular habitation and the estate contiguous to it 
 (belonging to my father-in-law actually in his Majesty's service), very- 
 much suffering for want of some friend to rescue it out of the power of 
 the usurpers ; so as to preserve our interest, and take some care of my 
 other concernes, by the advice and endeavour of my friends, I was ad- 
 vis'd to reside in it, and compound with the souldiers. This I was be- 
 sides authoriz'd by his Ma l > to do, and encourag'd with a promise that 
 what was in lease from the Crowne, if ever it pleas'd God to restore 
 him, he would secure to us in fee-ferme. I had also addresses and 
 cyfers to correspond w tb his Ma'- V and Ministers abroad : upon all which 
 inducements I was persuaded to settle henceforth in England, having 
 now run about the world, most part out of my owne country, neere 10 
 yeares. I therefore now likewise meditated sending over for my wife, 
 whom as yet I had left at Paris. 
 
 14 Mar. I went to Leusham, where I heard an honest sermon 
 on 2 Corinth. 5. / ? being the first Sonday I had ben at Church since my 
 returne, it being now a rare thing to find a priest of the Church of Eng- 
 land in a parish pulpit, most of which were fillM with Independents 
 and Phanatics. 
 
 15 Mar. I saw y e Diamond and Ruby launch'd at y e Dock at 
 Deptford, carrying 48 brasse cannon each. Cromwell and his Gran- 
 dees present with greate acclamations. 
 
 18. That worthy divine Mr. Owen of Eltham, a sequestered per- 
 son, came to visite me. 
 
 19. Invited by Lady Gerrard I went to London, where we had a 
 
1652.] 263 
 
 greate supper ; all the vessells, which were innumerable, were of Porce- 
 lan, she having the most ample and richest collection of that curiositie 
 in England. 
 
 22. I went with my brother Evelyn to Wotton to give him what 
 directions I was able about his garden, which he was now desirous to 
 put into some forme ; but for which he was to remove a mountaine 
 overgrowne w th huge trees and thicket, w th a moate within 10 yards of 
 the house. This my brother immediately attempted, and that without 
 greate cost, for more than an hundred yards South, by digging downe 
 the mountaine and flinging it into a rapid streame, it not onely carried 
 away the sand, &c. but filled up the moate, and level'd that noble area, 
 where now the garden and fountaine is *. The first occasion of my bro- 
 ther making this alteration was my building y e little retiring place be- 
 tweene the greate wood Eastward next the meadow, where sometime 
 after my father's death, I made a triangular pond, or little stew, with 
 an artificial rock after my coming out of Flanders. 
 
 29 Mar. I heard y* excellent Prelate the Primate of Ireland (Jacob: 
 Usher) preach in Lincoln's Inn, on 4 Heb. 16, encouraging of peni- 
 tent sinners. 
 
 5 April. My brother Geo. brought to Says Court Cromwell's Act of 
 Oblivion to all that would submit to the Government. 
 
 13. News was brought me that Lady Cotton, my brother George's 
 wife, was deliver'd of a son. 
 
 I was moved by a letter out of France to publish the letter which 
 sometime since I sent to Deane Cosin's proselyted son ; but I did not 
 conceive it convenient, for feare of displeasing her Ma^ the Queene. 
 
 15. I wrote to y e Deane touching my buying his library, which 
 was one of the choicest collections of any private person in England. 
 
 The Count de Strade most generously and handsomely sent me the 
 picture of my wife from Dynkirk (see pp. 236, 261] in a large tin case, 
 without any charge. It is of Mr. Bourdon, and is that which has y e 
 dog in it, and is to the knees, but it has been something spoil'd by 
 washing it ignorantly with soap-suds. 
 
 * The fountain remains (1818.) 
 
264 [1652. 
 
 25. I went to visit Aid. Kendrick, a Fanatic Lord Mayor, who 
 had married a relation of ours, where I met with a Captain who had 
 been thirteen times to the East Indies. 
 
 29. Was that celebrated eclipse of the sun so much threatened by y e 
 astrologers, and which had so exceedingly alarm'd the whole Nation - 
 that hardly any one would worke, nor stir out of their houses. So 
 ridiculously were they abus'd by knavish and ignorant star-gazers. 
 
 We went this afternoone to see y e Queene's House at Greenwich, 
 now given by the rebells to Bulstrode Whitlock, one of their unhappy 
 counsellors, and keeper of pretended liberties. 
 
 10 May. Passing by Smithfield I saw a miserable creature burning 
 who had murder'd her husband. I went to see some workmanship of 
 that admirable artist Reeves, famous for perspective and turning curio- 
 sities in ivorie. 
 
 29. I went to take order about a coach to be made against my 
 wife's coming, being my first coach, the pattern whereof I brought out 
 of Paris. 
 
 30. I went to obtain of my Lord of Devonshire that my nephew 
 George might be brought up with my young Lord his son, to whom I 
 was recommending Mr. Wase. I also inspected the manner of cham- 
 bletting silk and grograms at one Mons r La Dorees in Morefields, and 
 thence to Coll. Morley, one of their Councel of State, as then call'd, 
 who had ben my scholefellow, to request a passe for my wife's safe 
 landing, and the goods she was to bring with her out of France, w cb he 
 courteously granted, and did me many other kindnesses, that was a 
 greate matter in those daies. 
 
 30. In the afternoone at Charlton Church, where I heard a Rabi 
 nical sermon. Here is a faire monument in black marble of Sir Adam 
 Newton, who built that faire house neere it for Prince Henry, and 
 where my noble friend Sir Henry Newton succeeded him. 
 
 3 June. I receiv'd a letter from Coll. Morley to y e Magistrates and 
 Searchers at Rie, to assist my wife at her landing and shew her all 
 civility. 
 
 4. I set out to meet her now on her journey from Paris, after she 
 had obtain'd leave to come out of y l Citty, w ch had now ben besieged 
 
1653.] 265 
 
 some time by v c Prince of Conde"s armie in y e time of the rebellion, 
 and after she had ben now neere twelve yeares frow her owne country, 
 that is since five yeares of age, at w eh time she went over. I went to 
 Rie to meet her, where was an embargo on occasion of the late conflict 
 w th the Holland fleete, the two Nations being now in warr, and which 
 made sailing very unsafe. 
 
 On Whitsunday I went to the Church (w ch is a very faire one), and 
 heard one of their Canters, who dismiss'd the assembly rudely and 
 without any blessing. Here I stay'd till y e l()th with no small impa- 
 tience, when J walk'd over to survey the mines of Winchelsea, that 
 ancient Cinq-port, which by the remaines and ruines of ancient streetes 
 and public structures discovers it to have ben formerly a considerable 
 and large Citty. There are to be seene vast caves and vaults, walls 
 and towers, ruines of monasteries and of a sumptuous church, in which 
 are some handsom monuments, especialy of the Templars, buried just 
 in the manner of those in the Temple at London. This place being 
 now all in rubbish, and a few despicable hovells and cottages onely 
 standing, hath yet a Major. The sea w ch formerly render'd it a rich 
 and commodious port has now forsaken it. 
 
 11. About 4 in y e afternoone being at bowles on y e Greene, we dis- 
 cover'd a vessell, which prov'd to be that in which my wife was, and 
 which got into y e harbour about 8 y* evening to my no small joy. They 
 had ben three days at sea, and escaped the Dutch fleete, thro' which 
 they pass'd, taken for fishers, \v ch was great good fortune, there being 
 37 bailes of furniture and other rich plunder, w ch I blesse God came all 
 safe to land, together w th my wife, and my Lady Browne her mother 
 who accompanied her. My wife being discompos'd by having been so 
 long at sea, we set not forth towards home till y e 14th, when hearing 
 the small-pox was very rife in and about London, and Lady Browne 
 having a desire to drink Tun bridge waters, I carried them thither and 
 f.taied in a very sweete place, private and refreshing, and tooke the 
 waters myself till the 23d, when I went to prepare for their reception, 
 leaving them for y c present in their little cottage by the Wells. The 
 weather being hot, and having sent my man on before, I rod negli- 
 gently under favour of the shade, till within three miles of Bromley, at 
 
 vol. i, 2 m 
 
26*6 
 
 a place call'd the Procession Oake, two eut-throates started out, and 
 striking with long staves at y p horse and taking hold of the reines threw 
 me downe, tooke my sword, and haled me into a deepe thickett some 
 quarter of a mile from the highway, where they might securely rob 
 me, as they soone did. What they got of money was not considerable, 
 but they took two rings, the one an emerald with diamonds, the other an 
 onyx, and a pair of bouckles set with rubies and diamonds, which were of 
 value, and after all bound my hands behind mc, and my feete, having 
 before pull'd off my bootes ; they then set me up against an oake, w th 
 most bloudy threats to cutt my throat if I offer'd to crie out or make any 
 noise, for they should be within hearing, I not being the person they 
 looked for. I told them if they had not basely surpriz'd me they should 
 not have had so easy a prize, and that it would teach me never to ride neere 
 an hedge, since had I ben in y e mid-way they durst not have adventur'd on 
 me; at which they cock'd their pistols, and told me they had long guns too, 
 and were 14 companions. I begg'd for my onyx, and told them it being 
 engraven with my armes would betray them, but nothing prevail'd. My 
 horse's bridle they slipt, and search'd y L ' saddle, which they pull'd off, but 
 let the horse graze, and then turning againe bridl'd him and tied him to a 
 tree, yet so as he might graze, and thus left me bound. My horse was 
 perhaps not taken because he was mark'd and cropt on both eares, and 
 well known on that roade. Left in this manner grievously was I tor- 
 mented with flies, ants, and y e sunn, nor was my anxiety little how I should 
 get loose in that solitary place, where I could neither heare or see any 
 creature but my poore horse and a few sheepe stragling in the copse. 
 After neere 2 houres attempting I got my hands to turn palm to palm, 
 having been tied back to back, and then it was long before I could slip 
 the cord over my wrists to my thumb, which at last I did, and then 
 soone unbound my feete, and saddling my horse and roaming awhile 
 about I at last perceiv'd dust to rise, and soone after heard the rattling 
 of a cart, towards which I made, and by the help of two country men 
 I got back into the high way. I rode to Coll. Blount's, a greate jus- 
 ticiarie of the times, who sent out hue and cry immediately. The next 
 morning, sore as my wrists and armes were, I went to London and 
 got 500 tickets printed and dispers'd by an officer of Goldsmiths Hall, 
 
267 
 
 and within 2 daies had tidings of all I had lost except my sword which 
 had a silver hilt, and some trifles. The rogues had pawn'd one of my 
 rings for a trifle to a goldsmith's servant before the tickets came to the 
 shop, by which meanes they scap'd ; the other ring was bought by a 
 victualler, who brought it to a goldsmith, but he having seen the ticket 
 seiz'd the man. I afterwards discharged him on his protestation of 
 innocence. Thus did God deliver me from these villains, and not onely 
 so, but restor'd what they tooke, as twice before he had graciously don, 
 both at sea and land ; I meane when I had ben rob'd by pyrates, and 
 was in danger of a considerable losse at Amsterdam ; for which, and 
 many, many signal preservations, I am extreamly oblig'd to give 
 thanks to God my Saviour. 
 
 25 May. After a drowth of neare 4 monethes there fell so violent a 
 tempest of haile, raine, wind, thunder, and lightning, as no man had 
 seene the like in this age ; the haile being in some places 4 or 5 inches 
 about, brake all glasse about London, especialy at Deptford, and more 
 at Greenwich. 
 
 29. I return'd to Tunbridge, and againe drank y e water, till 10 July. 
 
 We went to see the house of my Lord Clanrickard at Summer-hill 
 near Tunbridge (now given to that villain Bradshavv who condemned 
 the King.) 'Tis situated on an eminent hill, with a park, but has no- 
 thing else extraordinary. 
 
 4 July. I heard a sermon at Mr. Packer's* Chapell at Grooms- 
 bridge a pretty melancholy seate, well wooded and water'd. In this 
 house was one of the French Kings J kept prisoner. The Chapell was 
 built by Mr. Packer's father, in remembrance of K. Charles the First 
 his safe returne out of Spaine§. 
 
 9. We went to see Penshurst, y e Earl of Leicester's, famous once 
 for its gardens and excellent fruit, and for the noble conversation which 
 
 * Clerk of the Privy Seal to King Charles I. 
 
 t In the parish of Speldhurst in Kent, 4 miles from Tunbridge. 
 
 + The Duke of Orleans taken at the battle of Agincourt 4 Hen. V by Richard Waller, then 
 owner of this place. Hasted's Kent, vol. I. p. 431. 
 
 § With this inscription over the door, " D. O. M. 1625- ob felicissimi Caroli Principis ex Hispa- 
 nia rcducis Sacellum hoc D. D. I. P." over it the device of the Prince of Wales. Ib. 4'S'i. 
 
268 
 
 was wont to meete there, celebrated by that illustrious person S r Philip 
 Sidny, who there eornpos'd divers of his pieces. It stands in a park, 
 is finely water'd, and was now full of company on y e marriage of my 
 old fellow collegiate Mr. Rob* Smith, who married my Lady Dorothy 
 Sidny* widdow of the Earle of Sunderlanu. 
 
 One of the men who robb'd me was taken ; I was accordingly sum- 
 mon'd to appeare against him, and on the 12th was in Westm r Hall, but 
 not being bound over nor willing to hang the fellow I did not appeare, 
 coming onely to save a friend's baile, but the bill being found he was 
 turn'd over to the Old Bailey. In the meane time I received a petition 
 from y e prisoner, whose father I understood was an honest old farmer 
 in Kent. He was charg'd with other crimes, and condemn'd, but re- 
 priev'd. I heard afterwards that had it not been for his companion, a 
 younger man, he would probably have kill'd me. He was afterwards 
 charg'd with some other crime, but refusing to plead, was press'd to death. 
 
 23. Came my old friend Mr. Spencer to visite me. 
 
 30 July. I took advice about purchasing Sir Richard's [ Browne] 
 interest of those who had bought Sayes Court. 
 
 1 Aug. Came old Jerome Lennier of Greenwich, a man skill'd in 
 painting and musiq, and another rare musitian call'd Mell. I went to 
 see his collection of pictures, especialy those of Julio Romano which 
 surely had ben the King's, and an Egyptian figure, &c. There were 
 also excellent things of Polydore, Guido, Raphael, Tintoret, &c. 
 Lennier had been a domestic of Qu. Elizabeth, and shew'd me her 
 head, an intaglia in a rare sardonyx, cut by a famous Italian, which 
 he assur'd me was exceeding like her. 
 
 24. My first child, a sonn, was born precisely at one o'clock. 
 Sept. 2. Mr. Owen, the sequestered Divine of Eltham, christened 
 
 my sonn by the name of Richard. 
 
 25. I went to see Dr. Mason's house, so .famous for the prospect 
 (for the house is a wretched one) and description in Barclay's Icon 
 Animarum-j\ 
 
 * Mr. Waller's Sacharissa, daughter of Philip Earl of Leicester. 
 
 f The book here referred to is in the British Museum, intitled, " Joannis Barclaii Feon Anima- 
 rum," printed at London 1614, small l L 2mo. It is written in Latin, and is dedicated to Lewis 
 
269 
 
 22. 1 went to Woodeot, where Lady Browne was taken with a 
 scarlet fever and died. She was carried to Deptford, and interr'd in the 
 Church neere Sir Richard's relations with all decent ceremonies, and 
 according to the Church Office, for which I obtain'd permission, after 
 it had not ben us'd in that Church of 7 yeares. Thus ended an excel- 
 lent and virtuous lady, universally lamented, having ben so obliging 
 on all occasions to those who continualy frequented her house in Paris, 
 which was not only an hospital, but an asylum to all our persecuted and 
 afflicted countrymen during 11 yeares residence there in that honorable 
 situation. 
 
 5 Nov. I went to London to visite some friends, but y e insolencies 
 were so greate in y e streetes that I could not returne till y e next day. 
 
 Dr. Scarborough was instant with me to give the Tables of Veins 
 and jlrteries to y e Colledge of Physitians, pretending he would not 
 oncly reade upon them, but celebrate my curiositie as being the first 
 who caus'd them to be compleated in that manner, and with that cost; 
 but I was not so willing yet to part with them, as to lend them to the 
 Colledge during their anatomical lectures, w ch 1 did accordingly. 
 
 22. I went to London, where was propos'd to me the promoting that 
 greate work, (since accomplish'd by Dr. Walton, Bishop of Chester) 
 Biblia Polyglotta, by Mr. Pierson that most learned divine. 
 
 25. Christmas day, no sermon any where, no Church being per- 
 mitted to be open, so observ'd it at home. The next day we went to 
 Lewesham, where an honest divine preach'd. 
 
 31 Dec. I adjusted all accompts, and render'd thanks to Almighty 
 God for his mercvs to me the yeare past. 
 
 1 Jan. 1653. I set apart in preparation for the B. Sacrament which 
 the next day Mr. Owen administered to me and all my family in Saves 
 Court, preaching on 6 John 32. 33. shewing the exceeding benefits of 
 
 XIII. of France, for what reason does not appear, the Author speaking of himself as a subject of 
 this Country. It mentions the necessity of forming the minds of youth, as a skilful gardener forms 
 his trees ; the different dispositions of men in different nations ; English, Scotch, and Irish, &c. 
 Cap. "2, contains a florid description of the beautiful scenery about Greenwich, but does not men- 
 tion Dr. Mason or his house. 
 
270 
 
 [1G53. 
 
 our blessed Saviour taking our nature upon him. He had christened 
 my son and churched my wife in our own house, as before noticed. 
 
 17 Jan. I began to set out the ovall garden at Sayes Court, which 
 was before a rude orchard and all y e rest one intire field of 100 acres, 
 without any hedge, except y e hither holly hedge joyning to y e bank of 
 the mount walk. This was the beginning of all the succeeding gardens, 
 walks, groves, enclosures, and plantations there. 
 
 21. I went to London and seal'd some of the writings of my pur- 
 chase of Sayes Court. 
 
 30 Jan. At our own parish Church a stranger preach'd. There was 
 now and then an honest orthodox man got into the pulpit, and tho' the 
 present incumbent Mas somewhat of the Independent, yet he ordinarily 
 preach'd sound doctrine, and was a peaceable man, which was an ex- 
 traordinary felicity in this age. 
 
 I Feb. Old Alex r Rosse (author of " Virgilius Evangelizans," and 
 many other little bookes) presented me with his book against Mr. 
 Hobbs's " Leviathan." 
 
 19. I planted y e Orchard at Sayes Court, new moone, wind West. 
 
 22. Was perfected the sealing, livery and seizin of my purchase of 
 Sayes Court. My brother Geo. Glanvill, Mr. Scudamor, Mr. Offley, 
 Co. W m Glanvill (son to Serj* Glanvill, sometime Speaker of the House 
 of Commons), Co. Stephens, and severall of my friends dining with me. 
 I had bargain'd for ,s£.3200, but I paid ^.3500. 
 
 25 Mar. Came to see me that rare graver in taille douce Mons r 
 liichett ; he was sent by Card 1 Mazarine to make a collection of pictures. 
 
 II April. I went to take the aire in Hide Park, where every coach 
 was made to pay a shilling, and horse 6d. by the sordid fellow who had 
 purchas'd it of the State as they Avere cal'd. 
 
 17 May. My servant Hoare, who wrote those exquisite several! 
 hands, fell of a fit of an apoplexie, caus'd, as I suppose, by tampering 
 with $ (mercury) about an experiment in gold. 
 
 29. I went to London to take my last leave of my honest friend 
 Mr. Barton now dying : it was a greate losse to me and to my affaires. 
 On the sixth of June I attended his funeral. 
 
I 
 
 1653-J 271 
 
 8 June. Came my brother George, Capt. Evelyn the greate tra-< 
 veller, Mr. Muschamp, my Co. Tho. Keightly, and a virtuoso fantas- 
 tical Symons*, who had the talent of embossing so to y e life. 
 
 9 June. I went to visite my worthy neighbour Sir Hen. Newton [at 
 Charlton], and consider the prospect, which is doubtless for city, river, 
 ships, meadows, hill, woods, and all other amenities, one of the most 
 noble in the world ; so as had y e house running water, it were a princely 
 seate. Mr. Henshaw and his brother-in-law came to visite me, and he 
 presented me with a seleniscope. 
 
 19. This day I paid all my debts to a farthing, 6 blessed day ! 
 
 21. My Lady Gerrard and one Esquire Knight, a very rich Gent, 
 living in Northamptonshire, visited me. 
 
 23. Mr. Lombart, a famous graver, came to see my Collections. 
 
 27. Mons r . Roupel sent me a small phial of his aurum potabile, 
 with a letter shewing the way of administering it, and y e stupendous 
 cures it had don at Paris ; but ere it came to me, by what accident I 
 know not, it was all run out. 
 
 17 Aug. I went to visite Mr. Hildiard at his house at Horsley 
 (formerly y e great S r Walter Raleigh's \ ), where met me Mr. Oughtred 
 the famous mathematician ; he shew'd me a box or golden case of divers 
 rich and aromatic balsams, which a chymist a scholar of his had sent 
 him out of Germany. 
 
 21. I heard that good old man Mr. Higham the parson of the parish 
 of Wotton where I was born, & who had baptized me, preach after his 
 very plaine way on Luke, comparing this troublesome world to the sea, 
 the ministers to the fishermen, and the saints to y e fish. 
 
 22. We all went to Guildford to rejoice at the famous Inn, the Red 
 Lion, and to see the Hospital, and the monument of Arch Bish. Abbot 
 the founder, who lies buried in the chapell of his endowment. 
 
 28 Sept. At Greenwich preach'd that holy martyr Dr. Hewer on 
 Psalm 90. v. 11. magnifying the grace of God to penitents, and threat- 
 
 * Abraham Simons, a strange character, but most excellent modeller after life, and engraver 
 of medals. 
 
 t This is a mistake 5 Mr. Hyldiard was of East Horsley, Sir Walter of West. 
 
272 [1653- 
 
 ning the extinction of his Gospel light for the prodigious impietv of 
 the age. 
 
 11 Oct. My sonn John Stansfieltl was borne, being my second 
 child, and christned by the name of my mother's father, that name now 
 quite extinct, being of Cheshire. Christen'd by Mr. Owen in my Li- 
 brary at Sayes Court, where he afterwards churched my wife, I always 
 making use of him on these occasions, because the Parish Minister durst 
 not have officiated according to the. forme and usage of the Church of 
 England, to w ch I always adhered. 
 
 25. Mr. Owen preach'd in my Library at Sayes Court on 18 Luke, 
 7- 8. an excellent discourse on y e unjust judge, shewing why Almighty 
 God would sometimes be compared by such similitudes. He afterwards 
 administered to us all y e Holy Sacrament. 
 
 28. Went to London to visit my Lady Gerrard, where I saw that 
 cursed woman cali'd the Lady Norton, of whom it was reported that she 
 spit in our King's face as he went to the scaffold. Indeede her talke 
 and discourse was like an impudent woman. 
 
 21 Nov. 1 went to London to speak with Sir John Evelyn my 
 kinsman about y e purchase of an estate of Mr. Lambard's at Westram, 
 w ch afterwards Sir John himself bought for his son-in-law Leech. 
 
 4 Dec. Going this day to our Church I was surpriz'd to see a trades- 
 man, a mechanic, step up ; I was resolv'd yet to stay and see what he 
 would make of it. His text was from 2 Sam. ch. 23. v. 20. " And Ben- 
 aiah went downe also and slew a lion in the midst of a pit in y e time of 
 snow ;" the purport was, that no danger was to be thought difficult 
 when God cali'd for shedding of blood, inferring that now y e Saints 
 were cali'd to destroy temporal governments ; with such feculant stuff; 
 so dangerous a crisis were things growne to. 
 
 25. Christmas Day. No Churches or publiq assembly. I was faine 
 to passe y e devotions of y* blessed day with my family at home. 
 
 1654. 20 Jan. Came to see me my old acquaintance and the most 
 incomparable player on the Irish harp, Mr. Clarke *. after his travelis. 
 He was an excellent musitian, a discreete gentleman, borne in Devon- 
 
 * See under the year 1668, November. 
 
1654.] 273 
 
 shire (as I remember). Such musiq before or since did I never heare, 
 that instrument being neglected for its extraordinary difficulty ; but in 
 my judgment far superior to the Lute itselfe, or whatever speakes with 
 strings. 
 
 25. Died my son J. Standsfield, of convulsion fits ; buried at 
 Deptford on y e East corner of y e Church, near his mother's great- 
 grandfather, &c. 
 
 8 Feb. Ash Wednesdav. In contradiction to all costome and de- 
 
 j 
 
 cency, the Usurper Cromwell feasted at the Lord Maior's, riding in 
 triumph thro' the Citty. 
 
 14. I saw a tame lion play familiarly with a lamb ; he was a huge 
 beast, and I thrust my hand into his mouth and found his tongue rough 
 like a cat's ; a sheepe also with 6 leggs, w ch made use of 5 of them to 
 walke ; a goose that had 4 leggs, 2 crops, and as many vents. 
 
 2,9 March. That excellent man Mr. Owen preached in my Library 
 on Matt. 28. v. 6. a Resurrection Sermon, and after it we all received 
 the Holy Communion. 
 
 6 April. Came my Lord Herbert, S 1 Kenelme Digbie, Mr. Denham, 
 and other friends, to see me. 
 
 15. I went to London to heare the famous D r Jeremy Taylor (since 
 Bishop of Downe and Connor) at St. Greg: on 6 Matt. 48. concerning 
 evangelical perfection. 
 
 5 May. I bound my laquay Tho. Headly apprentice to a carpenter, 
 giving with him five pounds & new cloathing ; he thrived very well, 
 and became rich. 
 
 8. I went to Hackney to see my Lady Brook's garden, which was 
 one of the neatest and most celebrated in England, the house well fur- 
 nish'd, but a despicable building. Returning, visited one Mr. Tombs's 
 garden ; it has large and noble walks, some modern statues, a vineyard, 
 planted in strawberry borders, staked at 10 foote distances ; the ban- 
 quetting-house of cedar, where the couch and seates were carv'd a Van- 
 tique ; some good pictures in the house, especialy one of Vandyke's, 
 being a Man in his shirt ; also some of Stenwyck. I also call'd at Mr. 
 Ducie's, who has indeede a rare collection of the best masters, and one 
 
 vol. i. 2 N 
 
2?4 [1054. 
 
 of y e largest stones of H.Holbein. I also saw Sir. Tho. Fowler's aviarie, 
 w ch is a poore businesse. 
 
 10. My Lady Gerrard treated us at Mulberry Garden *, now y° 
 onely place of refreshment about the towne for persons of y e best qua- 
 lity to be exceedingly cheated at ; Cromwell and his partisans having 
 shut up and seiz'd on Spring Garden, w ch till now had ben y e usual 
 rendezvous for the ladys and gallants at this season. 
 
 11. I now observed how the women began to paint themselves, for- 
 merly a most ignominious thing and us'd only by prostitutes. 
 
 14. There being no such thing as Church Anniversaries in y e Paro- 
 chial Assemblies, 1 was forced to provide at home for Whitsonday. 
 
 15. Came Sir Rob 1 . Stapleton, y e translator of Juvenal, to visite me. 
 8 June. My wife and I set out in a coach and 4 horses, in our way 
 
 to visite relations of hers in Wiltshire and other parts, where we 
 resolved to spend some moneths. We din'd at Windsor, and saw the 
 Castle and the Chapell of St. George, where they have laied our blessed 
 Martyr King Charles in the vault just before y e altar. The Church 
 and workmanship in stone is admirable. The Castle itselfe large in cir- 
 cumference, but y e roomes melancholy and of antient magnificence. The 
 keepe or mount, hath besides its incomparable prospect a very pro- 
 found well ; and the terrace towards Eaton, with the park, meandring 
 Thames, and sweete meadows, yield one of y e most delightful pro- 
 spects. That night we lay at Reading. Saw my Lord Craven's house 
 at Causam [Caversham] now in ruines, his goodly woods felling by 
 the Rebells. 
 
 9* Din'd at Marlborough, which having ben lately fir'd was now 
 new built. At one end of this towne we saw my Lord Seymour's 
 house f, but nothing observable save the Mount, to which we ascended 
 by windings for neere halfe a mile. It seems to have ben cast up by 
 
 * Buckingham House (now the Queen's Palace) was built on the site of these gardens: see 
 Dr. King, III. 73, ed. 1776 ; Malcolm's Londiniurn Redivivum IV. 263 ; but the latter afterwards, 
 p. 327, says that the piece of ground called the Mulberry Garden was granted by Charles II. in 167'2 
 to Henry Earl of Arlington; in that case it would be what is new called Arlington Street, unless 
 it extended up to the Queen's Palace. 
 
 f Now y e famous inn there. 
 
1654.] 275 
 
 hand. We pass'd by Coll. Popham's, a noble seate, park, and river. 
 Thence to Newberry, a considerable tovvne, and Donnington Castle fa- 
 mous for its battle, siege, and castle : that this last had ben y e possession 
 of old Geofrie Chaucer. Then to Aldermaston, a house of Sir Hum- 
 phry Forster's, built a la moderne. Also that exceedingly beautifull 
 seate of my Lord Pembroke, on y e ascent of an hill, flank'd with wood ) 
 and reguarding the river ; and so at night to Cadenham, y e mansion ot 
 Ed. Hungerford, Esq. uncle to my wife, where we made some stay. 
 The rest of the weeke we did nothing but feast and make good cheere 
 to welcome my wife. 
 
 27. We all went to see Bathe, where I bathed in the Crosse Bathe, 
 Amongst the rest of the idle diversions of the towne, one musitian was 
 famous for acting a changeling, which indeede he personated strangely. 
 
 The faciate of this Cathedrall is remarkable for its historical carving. 
 The King's Bath is esteem'd y e fairest in Europe. The towne is in- 
 tirely built of stone, but the streetes narrow, uneven, and unpleasant. 
 Here we trifled and bathed, and intervisited with the company who fre- 
 quent the place for health, &c. till y e 30th, and then went to Bristoll, a 
 Citty emulating London, not for its large extent but manner of build- 
 ing, shops, bridge, trafhq, exchange, market-place, &c. The Gover- 
 nor shew'd us the Castle, of no greate concernment. The Citty wholly 
 mercantile, as standing neere the famous Severne, commodiously for 
 Ireland and the Western world. Here I first saw the manner of re- 
 fining suggar and casting it into loaves, where we had a collation of 
 eggs fried in the suggar furnace *, together with excellent Spanish 
 wine : but what was most stupendious to me was the rock of St. Vin- 
 cent, a little distance from y e towne, the precipice whereof} is equal to 
 any thing of that nature I have seene in y e most confragose cataracts 
 of the Alpes, the river gliding betweene them at an extraordinary 
 depth. Here we went searching for diamonds, and to the Hot Wells 
 at its foote. There is also on the side of this horrid Alp a very roman- 
 tic seate : and so we return'd to Bathe in the evening, and 1 July 
 to Cadenham. 
 
 * A kind of entertainment like that we now have of eating beef-steaks drest on the stoker's 
 shovel, and drinking porter at the famous brewhouses in London. 
 
276 [1654. 
 
 4 July. On a letter from my wife's uncle, Mr Pretyman, I waited 
 back on her to London, passing by Hungerford, a towne famous for 
 its troutes, and the next day ariv'd at Deptford, which was 60 miles, 
 in the extremity of heate. 
 
 6. I went early to London, and y e next day met my wife and com- 
 pany at Oxford, y e eve of y e Act. 
 
 8. Was spent in hearing several exercises in the scholes, and after 
 dinner y e Proctor opened y e Act at St. Marie's (according to custome) 
 and y e Prevaricators their drolery. Then the Doctors disputed. We 
 supp'd at Wadham College. 
 
 9. Dr. French preach'd at St. Marie's on 12 Matt. 42. advising the 
 Students the search after true wisdome, not to be had in the bookes of 
 Philosophers, but in the Scriptures alone. In y e afternoone the famous 
 Independent, Dr. Owen, perstringing Episcopacy. He was now Crom- 
 well's Vice-Chancelor. We din'd w th Dr. Ward, Mathematical Pro- 
 fessor (since Bp. of Sarum), and at night supp'd in Balliol Coll. Hall, 
 where I had once ben Student and Fellow Commoner, and where they 
 made me extraordinarily welcome. 
 
 10. On Monday I went againe to y e Scholes to heare the severall 
 Faculties, and in y e afternoone tarried out the whole Act in St. Marie's, 
 the long speeches of the Proctors, the Vice-Chancellor, the severall 
 Professors, creation of Doctors by y e cap. ring, kisse, &c, those antient 
 ceremonies and institution being as yet not wholy abolish'd. Dr. 
 Kendal, now Inceptor amongst others, performing his Act incom- 
 parably well, concluded it with an excellent oration, abating his Pres- 
 byterian animosities, which he witheld not even against that learned 
 and pious divine Dr. Hammond. The Act was clos'd with y e speech 
 of y e Vice-Chancellor, there being but 4 in Theologie, 3 in Medicine, 
 which was thought a considerable matter, the times consider'd. I din'd 
 at one Mons r . Fiat's, a Student at Exeter College, and supp'd at a 
 magnificent entertainment in Wadham Hall, invited by my deare and 
 excellent friend Dr. Wilkins, then Warden (after Bishop of Chester.) 
 
 11. Was y e Latin sermon, w ch 1 could not he at, tho' invited, being 
 taken up at All Souls, where we had music, voices, and theorbos, per- 
 torm'd by some ingenious scholars. After dinner I visited that miracle 
 
277 
 
 of a youth Mr. Christopher Wren, nephew to y e Bishop of Ely. Then 
 Mr. Barlow (since Bishop of Lincoln) Bibliothecarius of y e Bodleian 
 Library, my most learned friend. He shew'd us y e rarities of that 
 most famous place, manuscripts, medails, and other curiosities. 
 Amongst the MSS. an old English Bible, wherein y e Eunuch men- 
 tioned to be baptized by Philip is called the Gelding : " and Philip and 
 the Gelding went down into the water," &c. The original Acts of the 
 Council of Basil 900 yeares since, with the bulla or leaden affix, \y ci \ 
 has a silken cord passing thro' every parchment ; a MS. of Venerable 
 Bede of 800 yeares antiquity ; y e old Ritual secundum usum Sarum, 
 exceeding voluminous ; then amongst y e nicer curiosities, the Proverbs 
 of Solomon written in French by a lady*, every chapter of a severall 
 character or hand the most exquisite imaginable ; an hieroglyphical 
 table or carta folded up like a map, I suppose it painted on asses hide, 
 extremely rare; but what is most illustrious, there were no less than 
 1000 MSS. in 19 languages, especialy Oriental, furnishing that new 
 part of y e Library built by Abp. Lawd from a designe of Sir Kenelme 
 Digby and y e Earle of Pembrook. In y e closet of the Tower they shew 
 some Indian weapons, urnes, lamps, &c. but y e rarest is the whole 
 Alcoran written on one large sheet of calico, w ch is made up in a priest's 
 vesture or cope, after the Turkish and Arabic character, so exquisitely 
 written as no printed letter comes neere it ; also a roll of magical 
 charms, divers talismans, and some medails. 
 
 Then I led my wife into y e Convocation House, finely wainscoted ; 
 y e Divinity Schole and Gotic carv'd roofe ; the Physick or Anatomie 
 Schole, adorn'd with some rarities of natural things, but nothing ex- 
 traordinary save y e skin of a jaccall, a rarely colour'd jacatoo or prodi- 
 gious large parrot, 2 humming birds not much bigger than our humble 
 bee, which indeede I had not seene before, that I remember. 
 
 12. We went to St. John's, saw y e Library and the 2 skeletons 
 which are finely cleans'd and put together ; observable is here also y' 
 store of mathematical instruments, cheifely given by y e late Abp. Lawd, 
 who built here an handsome quadrangle. 
 
 * Mrs. Esther Inglish, married to Bartholomew Kello, Rector of Willinghall Spain in Essex. 
 See an account of her curious penmanship in Massey's Origin and Progress of Letters. 
 
278 
 
 [1654- 
 
 Thence we went to New College, where the Chapel was in its an- 
 cient garb, notwithstanding the scrupulositie of the times. Thence to 
 Christ's Church, in whose library was shew'd us an Office of Hen. 8, 
 the writing, miniatures, and gilding whereof is equal if not surpassing 
 any curiosity I had seene of that kind; it was given by their founder, 
 Cardinal Wolsey. The glasse windows of y e Cathedrall (famous in my 
 time) I found much abus'd. The ample Hall and columne that spreads 
 its capital to sustaine y e roofe as one goes up y e stayres is very remark- 
 able. 
 
 Next we walked to Magdalen College, where we saw y e Library and 
 Chapell, w ch was likewise in pontifical order, the altar onely I think 
 turn'd table-wise, and there was still the double organ, which abomi- 
 nations (as now esteem'd) were almost universaly demolish'd ; Mr. 
 Gibbon, that famous musitian, giving us a taste of his skill and talents 
 on that instrument. 
 
 Hence we went to y e Physick Garden, where the sensitive plant was 
 shew'd us for a greate wonder. There grew canes, olive-trees, rhu- 
 barb, but no extraordinary curiosities, besides very good fruit, which 
 when the ladys had tasted, we returned in our coach to our lodgings. 
 
 13. We all din'd at that most obliging and universally-curious Dr. 
 Wilkins's, at Wadham College. He was the first who shew'd me the 
 transparent apiaries, which he had built like castles and palaces, and 
 so order'd them one upon another as to take the hony without destroy- 
 ing the bees. These were adorn'd with a variety of dials, little statues, 
 vanes, &c. and he was so aboundantly civil, as finding me pleas'd with 
 them, to present me with one of y e hives which he had empty, and 
 w cli I afterwards had in my garden at Sayes Court, where it continu'd 
 many years, and which his Majestie came on purpose to see and con- 
 template with much satisfaction. He had also contriv'd an hollow 
 statue which gave a voice and utter'd words, by a long conceal'd pipe 
 that went to its mouth *, whilst one speaks through it at a good 
 distance. He had above in his lodgings and gallery variety of shadows, 
 
 * This reminds us of the speaking figures so long exhibited in Spring Gardens, and in Leicester 
 Fields, some years ago. 
 
1654. J 
 
 279 
 
 dyals, perspectives, and many other artificial, mathematical, and magi- 
 cal curiosities, a way-wiser, a thermometer, a monstrous magnet, conic 
 and other sections, a ballance on a demi-circle, most of them of his 
 owne and that prodigious young scholar Mr. Chr. Wren, who presented 
 me with a piece of white marble, which he had stain'd with a lively red, 
 very deepe, as beautiful as if it had ben natural. 
 
 Thus satisfied with y e civilities of Oxford, we left it, dining at Fa- 
 ringdon, a towne w ch had ben newly fir'd during y e warrs; and passing 
 neere y e seate of Sir Walter Pie *, we came to Cadenham. 
 
 16. We went to another uncle and relative of my wife's, Sir John 
 Glanvill, a famous lawyer, formerly Speaker of y e House of Commons ; 
 his seate is at Broad-Hinton, where he now liv'd, but in y e Gate- 
 house, his very faire dwelling-house having ben burnt by his owne 
 hands to prevent y e rebells making a garrison of it. Here my cousin 
 Will. Glanvill, his eldest sonn, shew'd me such a lock for a doore, that 
 for its filing and rare contrivances was a master-piece, yet made by a 
 country black-smith. But we have seene watches made by another with 
 as much curiositie as the best of that profession can brag off ; and not 
 many yeares after, there was nothing more frequent than all sorts of 
 Iron-work more exquisitely wrought and polish'd than in any part of 
 Europ, so as a dore-lock of a tolerable price was esteem'd a curiositie 
 even among forraine princes. 
 
 Went back to Cadenham, and on y e 19th to Sir Ed. Baynton's at 
 Spie Park, a place capable of being made a noble seate ; but the hu- 
 mourous old Knight has built a long single house of 2 low stories on 
 v e precipice of an incomparable prospect, and landing on a bowling 
 greene in y c park. The house is like a long barne, and has not a win- 
 dow on y e prospect side. After dinner they went to bowles, and in the 
 meanetime our coach-men were made so exceedingly drunk, that in re- 
 turning home we escap'd greate dangers. This it seems was by order 
 of the Knight, that all gentlemen's servants be so treated ; but the 
 custome is barbarous, and much unbecoming a Knight, still lesse a 
 Christian. 
 
 * Pye — ancestor of the late Poet Laureat. 
 
 1 
 
280 
 
 [1654- 
 
 20. We proceeded to Salisbury; the Cathedral I take to be the com- 
 pleatest piece of Gotic worke in Europe, taken in all its uniformitie. 
 The pillars, reputed to be cast, are of stone manifestly cut out of y e 
 quarry; most observable are those in y e Chapter-house. There are some 
 remarkable monuments, particularly the antient Bishops founders of the 
 Church, Knights Templars, the Marques of Hartford's, the cloysters of 
 the palace and garden, and the greate mural dial. 
 
 In the afternoone we went to Wilton, a fine house of y e Earl of Pem- 
 broke, in which y e most observable are y e dining-roome in y e modern 
 built part towards the garden, richly gilded and painted with story by 
 De Creete ; also some other apartments, as that of hunting landskips 
 by Pierce; some magnificent chimny-pieces after the best French 
 manner; a paire of artificial winding-stayres of stone, and divers rare 
 pictures. The garden, heretofore esteem'd the noblest in England, is 
 a large handsom plaine, with a grotto and water-works, which might be 
 made much more pleasant were the river that passes through cleans'd 
 and rais'd, for all is effected by a meere force. It has a flower garden 
 not inelegant. But after all, that which renders the seate delightful 
 is its being so neere y e downes and noble plaines about the country 
 contiguous to it. The stables are well order'd and yeild a gracefull 
 front, by reason of the walkes of lime-trees, with the court and foun- 
 taine of the stables adorn'd with the Caesar's heads. 
 
 We returned this evening by the plaine, and 14 mile race, where out 
 of my lords hare-warren we were entertained with a long course of an 
 hare for neere 2 miles in sight. Neere this is a pergola or stand, built 
 to view the sports : and so we came to Salisbury, and viewed the 
 most considerable parts of the Cittv. The merket-place with most of 
 the streetes are water'd by a quick current and pure streame running 
 thro' y e middle of them, but are negligently kept, when with small 
 charge they might be purg'd and render'd infinitely agreeable, and 
 made one of y e sweetest townes, but now the common buildings are 
 despicable and y ( ' streetes dirty. 
 
 22 July. We departed and din'd at a ferme of my uncle Hunger- 
 ford's, eall'd Darneford Magna, situate in a vally under y e plaine, most 
 
1654.] 
 
 281 
 
 sweetly water'd, abounding in trouts catch'd by speare in the night 
 when they come attracted by a light set in y e sterne of a boate. 
 
 After dinner, continuing our returne, we pass'd over y e goodly 
 plaine, or rather sea of carpet, which I think for evenness, extent, 
 verdure, and innumerable flocks, to be one of y e most delightful pro- 
 spects in nature, and reminded me of the pleasant lives of shepherds we 
 reade of in Romances. 
 
 Now we were arived at Stone-henge, indeede a stupendious monu- 
 ment, appearing at a distance like a castle ; how so many and huge 
 pillars of stone should have ben brought together, some erect, others 
 transverse on y e tops of them, in a circular area as rudely representing 
 a cloyster or heathen and more natural temple, is wonderfull. The 
 stone is so exceeding hard, that all my strength with a hammer could 
 not breake a fragment ; w ch hardness I impute to their so long ex- 
 posure. To number them exactly is very difficult, they lie in such 
 variety of postures and confusion, tho' they seem'd not to exceede 100 ; 
 we counted onely 95. As to their being brought thither, there being 
 no navigable river neere, is by some admir'd ; but for y e stone there 
 seemes to be y e same kind about 20 miles distant, some of which 
 appeare above ground. About the same hills are divers mounts rais'd, 
 conceiv'd to be ancient intrenchments or places of burial after bloudy 
 fights. We now went by the Devizes, a reasonable large towne, and 
 came late to Cadenham. 
 
 27. I went to the hunting of a sorel deere, and had excellent chase 
 for 4 or 5 houres, but the venison little worth. 
 
 29 July. I went to Langford to see my cousin Stephens. I also 
 saw Dryfield, y L ' house heretofore of Sir John Pretyman, grandfather to 
 my wife, and sold by her uncle ; both y e seate and house very honour- 
 able and well built, much after the modern fashion. 
 
 31. Taking leave of Cadenham, where we had ben long and nobly 
 entertain'd, we went a compass into Leicestershire, where dwelt another 
 relation of my wife's ; for I indeede made these excursions to shew 
 her y e most considerable parts of her native country, who from her 
 childhood had liv'd altogether in France, as well as for my owne 
 curiosity and information. 
 
 vol. 1. 2 o 
 
V 
 
 282 [1654. 
 
 About two miles before coming to Gloucester, we have a prospect 
 from woody hills into a most goodly vale and country. Gloucester is a 
 handsome Citty, considerable for the Church & monuments. The Minster 
 is indeede a noble fabric. The whispering gallery is rare, being thro' 
 a passage of 25 yards, in a many-angled cloister, and was, I suppose, 
 either to shew the skill of the architect, or some invention of a cunning 
 priest, who standing unseene in a recesse in the middle of the Chappell, 
 might heare whatever was spoken at either end. This is above the 
 quire, in which lies buried K. Stephen under a monument of Irish oake, 
 not ill carved considering the age. The new Librarie is a noble tho' a 
 private designe. 1 was likewise pleased with y e Severne gliding so 
 sweetely by it. The Duke's house, the Castle workes, are now almost 
 quite dismantl'd ; nor yet without sad thoughts did I see the Towne, 
 considering how fatal the siege had ben a few yeares before to our 
 good King. 
 
 1 Aug*. We sat out towards Worcester by a way thick planted with 
 cider-fruit. We deviated to the Holy Wells, trickling out of a vally 
 thro' a steepe declivity towards the foote of the greate Mauvern Hills ; 
 they are said to heale many infirmities, as king's evil, leaprosie, sore 
 eyes, &c. Ascending a great height above them to the Trench 
 dividing England from South Wales, we had the prospect of all Here- 
 fordshire, Radnor, Brecknock, Monmouth, Worcester, Glocester, Shrop- 
 shire, Warwick, Derby shires, and many more. We could discern 
 Tewxbery, Kings-rode towards Bristol, &c. so as I esteeme it one of the 
 o-oodliest vista's in England. 
 
 2. This evening we ariv'd at Worcester, the Judges of Assise and 
 Sheriff just entering as we did. Viewing the Towne the next day, we 
 found y e Cathedral much ruin'd by the late warrs, otherwise a noble 
 structure. The Towne is neately pav'd and very cleane, the goodly 
 river Severne running by it, and standing in a most fertile country. 
 
 3. We pass'd next thro' Warwick, and saw the Castle, the dwelling- 
 house of the Lord Brook, and the furniture noble. It is built on an 
 eminent rock w cil gives prospect into a most goodly greene, a woody 
 and plentifully watred country ; the river running so delightfully under 
 it, that it may passe for one of the most surprising seates one should 
 
1654.] 
 
 283 
 
 meete with. The gardens are pretily disposed, but might be much 
 improv'd. Here they show us S r Guy's greate two-handed sword, 
 staff, horse-armes, pott, and other reliques of y* famous knight-errant. 
 Warwick is a faire old Towne, and hath one Church full of antient 
 monuments. Having viewed these, I went to visite my worthy friend 
 Sir H. Puckering at the Abby, and tho' a melancholy old seate, yet in 
 a rich soile. Hence to Sir Guy's Grott, where they say he did his 
 penances and dyed. 'Tis a squalid den made in the rock, crown'd yet 
 with venerable oakes and looking on a goodly streame, so as, were it 
 improv'd as it might be, 'twere capable of being made a most romantiq 
 and pleasant place. Neere this we were shew'd his chapell and 
 gigantic statue hewn out of the solid rock, out of which there are like- 
 wise divers other caves cut, & some very capacious. The next place to 
 Coventry. The Crosse is remarkable for Gotic worke and rich gilding, 
 comparable to any I had ever seene except that of Cheapeside in 
 London, now demolish'd. This Citty has many handsome churches, a 
 beautifull wall, a faire free-schole and librarie to it; the streetes full of 
 greate shops, cleane and well pav'd. At going forth the Gate they 
 shew us the bone or rib of a wild boare said to have ben kill'd by Sir 
 Guy, but which I take to be the chine of a whale. 
 
 4. Hence riding thro' a considerable part of Leicestershire, an open, 
 rich, but unpleasant country, we came late in the evening to Horning- 
 hold, a seate of my wife's unkle [not nam'dj. 
 
 7- Went to Uppingham, the Shire-towne of Rutland, pretty and 
 well built of stone, which is a rarity in that part of England, where 
 most of the rural parishes are but of mud, and the people living as 
 wretchedly as in the most impoverish'd parts of France, which they 
 much resemble, being idle and sluttish. The country (especially Lei- 
 cestershire) much in common ; the gentry free drinkers. 
 
 9. To the old and ragged Citty of Leicester, large and pleasantly 
 seated, but despicably built, y e chimney flues like so many smiths forges; 
 however, famous for the tombe of the Tyrant Richard the Third, which 
 is now converted to a cistern, at which (I think) cattel drink. Also 
 here in one of the Churches lies buried the magnificent Cardinal Wolsey. 
 John of Gaunt has here also built a large but poore Hospital, neere 
 
284 
 
 [1654. 
 
 which a wretch has made him an house out of the ruines of a stately 
 church. Saw y e ruines of an old Roman Temple, thought to be of 
 Janus. Entertain'd at a very fine collation of fruits, such as I did not 
 expect to meet with so far North, especially very good melons. We 
 return'd to my unkle's. 
 
 14. I tooke a journey into the Northern parts, riding thro' Oakham, 
 a pretty towne in Rutlandshire, famous for the tenure of the Barons 
 (Ferrers), who hold it by taking off a shoe from every noble-man's 
 horse that passes with his Lord thro' the streete, unless redeem'd with 
 a certain piece of money. In token of this are severall gilded shoes 
 nail'd up on the Castle -gate *, which seemes to have ben large and 
 faire. Hence we went by Brook, a very sweete seate and parke of the 
 old Lady Camdens. Next by Burleigh House, belonging to the Duke 
 of Buckingham and worthily reckon'd among the noblest seates in 
 England, situate on the brow of an hill, built a la moderne neere a park 
 wall'd in, and a fine wood at the descent. 
 
 Now we were come to Cottsmore, a pretty seate belonging to Mr. 
 Heath, sonn to the late L d Cheif Justice of that name. Here, after 
 dinner, parting with the company that conducted us thus far, I pass'd 
 that evening by Belvoir Castle, built on a round mount at the point of 
 a long ridge of hills, which affords a stately prospect, and is famous 
 for its strenuous resistance in the late civil warr J. 
 
 Went by Newark on Trent, a brave towne and garison. Next by 
 Wharton House, belonging to y e Lord Chaworth, an handsom seate: 
 then by Home, a noble place belonging to the Marques of Dorchester, 
 and pass'd the famous river Trent, which divides the South from the 
 North of England, and so lay that night at Nottingham. This whole 
 Towne and County seemes to be but one entire rock as it were, an 
 exceeding pleasant shire, full of gentry. Here I observ'd divers to 
 
 * A shoe was paid for by the Duke of York in 1788. 
 
 f Called Burleigh on the Hill, for distinction from the Earl of Exeter's near Stamford. The 
 Duke of Buckingham sold it to the family of Finch, now Earl of Winchelsea and Nottingham, to 
 whom it belongs. 
 
 X New apartments built by the present Duke, but the old part was burnt down in Oct. 1816^ 
 
 suspected to be by incendiaries. 
 
1654-] 
 
 285 
 
 live in the rocks and caves, much after y c manner as about Tours in 
 France*. The Church is well built on an eminence ; there is a faire 
 house of the Lord Clare's, another of Pierrepoints ; an ample merket- 
 place ; large streetes full of crosses ; the reliques of an ancient castle 
 hollovv'd, beneath w ch are many caverns, especialy that of the Scots 
 King, and his work whilst there. The place is remarkable for being 
 the place where his Ma'^ first erected his standard at the beginning of 
 our late unhappy differences. This prospects from this citty towards 
 the river and meadows are most deli^htfull. 
 
 15. We pass'd next thro' Sherewood Forest, accounted the most 
 extensive in England. Then Paplewick, an incomparable vista with 
 the pretty castle neere it. Thence we saw Newstead Abby belonging 
 to y e Lord Biron, situated much like Fontaine-bleau in France f, ca- 
 pable of being made a noble seate, accommodated as it is with brave 
 woods and streames ; it has yet remaining the front of a glorious Abby 
 Church. Next by Mansfield Towne ; then Welbeck, the house of the 
 Marques of Newcastle, seated in a botome in a park, and environ'd 
 with woods, a noble yet melancholy seate. The palace is a handsom 
 and stately building. Next to Worksop Abby, almost demolished ; the 
 Church has a double flat towre intire, and a pretty gate. The Mannor 
 belongs to the Earle of Arundel, and has to it a faire house at the foote 
 of an hill in a park that affords a delicate prospect. Tickel, a Towne 
 and Castle, has a very noble prospect. All these in Nottinghamshire. 
 
 16. We ariv'd at Doncaster, where we lay this night ; it is a large 
 faire towne, famous for greate wax-lights and good stockings. 
 
 17- Pass'd thro' Pontefract ; the Castle, famous for many sieges 
 both of late and ancient times, and the death of y 1 unhappy King mur- 
 dered in it (Richard II.) was now demolishing by the Rebells ; it 
 stands on a mount and makes a goodly shew at a distance. The 
 Queene has an house here, and there are many faire seats neere it, 
 especialy Mr. Pierrepoint's, built at the foote of an hill out of the 
 Castle ruines. We all alighted in y e highway to drink at a cristal 
 spring w ch they call Robin Hood's Well ; neere it is a stone chaire, 
 
 * See p. 61. 
 
 f See p. 47. 
 
286 [1654. 
 
 and an iron ladle to drink out of, chain'd to the seate. We rode to 
 Tadcaster, at the side of which we have prospect of the Archbishop's 
 Palace (w ch is a noble seate), and in sight of divers other gentlemen's 
 faire houses. This tract is a goodly, fertile, well-water'd and wooded 
 country, abounding with pasture and plenty of provisions. 
 
 17 Aug 1 . To York, the second Citty of England, fairely wall'd, of 
 a circular forme, water'd by the brave river Ouse, bearing vessels of 
 considerable burthen on it ; over it is a stone bridge emulating y 1 of 
 London, and built on, the middle arch is larger than any I have seene 
 in England, with a wharfe of hewn stone, which makes the river ap- 
 peare very neate. But most remarkable and worthy seeing is St. Pe- 
 ter's Cathedrall, which of all the greate churches in England had ben 
 best preserv'd from y e furie of y e sacrilegious *, by composition with 
 the Rebells when they tooke the Citty, during the many incursions of 
 Scotch and others. It is a most intire magnificent piece of Gotic archi- 
 tecture. The skreene before y e quire is of stone carv'd w th flowers, 
 running work and statues of y e old Kings. Many of the monuments 
 are very ancient. Here, as a greate rarity in these days and at this 
 time, they shew'd me a Bible and Common Prayer Book cover'd with 
 crimson velvet, and richly emboss'd with silver gilt ; also a service for 
 y e altar, of guilt wrought plate, flagons, basin, euer, chalices, patins, &c. 
 with a gorgeous covering for y e altar and pulpit, carefully preserv'd in 
 y e Vestrie, in the hollow wall whereof rises a plentifull spring of ex- 
 cellent water. I got up to y e Towre, whence we had a prospect 
 towards Duresme, and could see Rippon, part of Lancashire, the 
 famous and fatal Marston Moore, y e Spaws of Knaresbrough, and 
 
 all the environs of that admirable country. Sir Ingoldsby has 
 
 here a large house, gardens, and tennis court ; also the King's house 
 and Church neere the Castle, which was modernly fortified with a pa- 
 lizade and bastions. The streetes are narrow and ill pav'd, the shops 
 like London. 
 
 18 Aug. We went to Beverly, a large towne with 2 stately 
 churches, St. John's and St. Marie's, not much inferior to the best of 
 
 * By Sir Thomas Fairfax. 
 
1654.] 28/ 
 
 our Cathedrals. Here a very old woman shew'd us the monuments, 
 and being above 100 yeares old, spake y e language of Queen Marie's 
 daies, in whose time she was born ; she was widow of a Sexton who 
 had belong'd to y e church an hundred yeares. 
 
 Hence we pass'd thro' a fenny but rich country to Hull, situate like 
 Calais, modernly and strongly fortified with three block-houses of brick 
 and earth. It has a good mercat-place and harbour for ships. Famous 
 also (or rather infamous) is this towne for Hotham's refusing enterance 
 to his Ma. ty . The Water-house is worth seeing;. And here ends the 
 South of Yorkshire. 
 
 19. We passe the Humber, an arme of the sea of about 2 leagues 
 breadth. The weather was bad, but we cross'd it in a good barg to 
 Barton, the first towne in that part of Lincolnshire. All marsh 
 ground till we came to Brigg, famous for the plantations of licorice, 
 and then had brave pleasant riding to Lincoln, much resembling Salis- 
 bury Plaine. Lincoln is an old confus'd towne, very long, uneven* 
 steepe, and ragged ; formerly full of good houses, especialy churches 
 and abbies. The Minster almost comparable to y 4 of York itselfe, 
 abounding with marble pillars and having a faire front. Herein was 
 interr'd Q. Elianor, the loyal and loving wife who suck'd the poison 
 out of her husband's wound ; the Abbot founder, w th rare carving in 
 y e stone ; the greate Bell, or Tom, as they call it ; I went up the 
 steeple, from whence is a goodly prospect all "over the country. The 
 souldiers had lately knocked off most of the brasses from the grave- 
 stones, so as few inscriptions were left ; they told us that these men 
 went in with axes and hammers, and shut themselves in, till they had 
 rent and torne off some barge-loads of mettal, not sparing even the mo- 
 numents of the dead, so hellish an avarice possessed them ; besides w ch 
 they exceedingly ruin'd the Citty. 
 
 Here I saw a tall woman six foote two inches high, comely, middle 
 ag'd and well proportion'd, who kept a very neate and cleane ale- 
 house, and got most by people's coming to see her on account of her 
 height. 
 
 20. From hence we had a most pleasant ride over a large heath 
 open like Salisbury Plaine, to Grantham, a pretty towne, so well situ- 
 
288 
 
 [1654- 
 
 ated on the side of a bottome, which is large and at distance inviron'd 
 with ascending grounds, that for pleasure I consider it comparable to 
 most inland places of England : famous is the Steeple for the exceeding 
 height of the shaft, which is of stone. 
 
 About 18 miles South we passe by a noble seate, and see Boston 
 at a distance. Here we came to a parish of which the parson has 
 Tithe Ale. 
 
 Thence thro' Rutland we brought night to Horninghold, from 
 whence I sat out on this excursion. 
 
 22. I went a setting and hawking, where we had tolerable sport. 
 
 25. I went to see Kirby, a very noble house of my Lord Hatton's 
 in Northamptonshire, built a la moderne ; the garden and stables 
 agreeable, but the avenue ungraceful and the seate naked : returned 
 that evening. 
 
 27. Mr. Allington preach'd an excellent discourse from Romans 6. 
 19. This was he who publish'd those bold sermons of the members 
 warring against the wind, or the Jewes crucifying Christ, applied to 
 the wicked regicides, for which he was ruin'd. We had no sermon 
 in the afternoone. 
 
 30. Taking leave of my friends who had now feasted me more than 
 a moneth, I, with my wife, &c. set our faces towards home, and got 
 this evening to Peterborow, passing by a stately palace (Thorpe) of 
 St. John's (one deepe in y e bloud of our good King), built out of the 
 ruines of the Bishops Palace and Cloyster. The Church is exceeding 
 faire, full of monuments of greate antiquity. Here lies Queene Catha- 
 rine, the unhappy wife of Hen. VIII. and the no lesse unfortunate 
 Mary Q. of Scots. On the steeple we view'd the Fens of Lincolnshire, 
 now much inclos'd and drained with infinite expence, and by many 
 sluices, cutts, mounds, and ingenious mills, and the like inventions, at 
 which the Citty and country about it, consisting of a poore and very* 
 lazy sort of people, were much displeas'd. 
 
 Peterborow is an handsome towne, and hath another well-built 
 Church. 
 
 31. Thro' part of Huntingdon shire we passe that towne, faire and 
 ancient, a river running by it. The country about it so abounds in 
 
1654.] 289 
 
 wheate, that when any King of England passes thro' it they have a 
 costom to meet him with an hundred plows. 
 
 This evening to Cambridge ; and went first to see St. John's Col- 
 ledge, well built of brick, and Librarie, which I think is y e fairest of 
 that University One Mr. Benlowes* has given it all y c ornaments of 
 Pietra Commessa whereof a table and one piece of perspective is 
 very fine ; other trifles there also be of no great value, besides a vast 
 old song book or service, and some faire manuscripts. There hangs in 
 v e library the picture of John Williams Abp. of York sometime Lord 
 Keeper, my kinsman and their greate benefactor. 
 
 Trinity College is said by some to be the fairest quadrangle of any 
 University in Europ, but in truth is far inferior to that of Christ Church 
 in Oxford ; the hall is ample and of stone, y e fountaine in y u quadrangle 
 is gracefull, the Chapell and Library faire. There they shew'd us the 
 prophetic manuscript of the famous Grebner, but the passage and em- 
 blem which they would apply to our late King, is manifestly relating to 
 the Swedish ; in truth it seemes to be a meere fantastic rhapsody, how- 
 ever the title may bespeake strange revelations. There is an Office in 
 manuscript with fine miniatures, and some other antiquities given by y e 
 Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry VII. and the before mention'd 
 Abp. Williams when Bishop of Lincoln. The Library is pretty well 
 stor'd. The Greeke Professor had me into another large quadrangle 
 cloister' d and well built, and gave us a handsome collation in his own 
 chamber. 
 
 Thence to Caius, and afterwards to King's College, where I found the 
 Chapel altogether answer'd expectation, especialy the roofe all of stone, 
 w ch for the flatness^ of its laying and carving, may I conceive, vie with 
 any in Christendome. The contignation of the roof (w ch I went upon) 
 weight and artificial joyneing of the stones is admirable. The lights 
 are also very faire. In one ile lies the famous Dr. Collins so celebrated 
 for his fluency in the Latin tongue. From this roofe we could descry 
 
 * Edward Benlowes, Esq. a writer of Divine Poesy, of a good family in Essex, and of a good 
 estate, but which he wasted by improvident liberality, and buying curiosities, as Wood says. 
 Wood's Fasti, 876. 
 
 f Marble inlaid of various colours representing flowers, birds, &c. 
 VOL. I. 2 P 
 
290 
 
 [1654- 
 
 Ely, and y e incampment of Sturbridge faire now beginning to set up 
 their tents and boothes ; also Royston, Newmarket, &c. houses belong- 
 ing to the King. The Library is too narrow. 
 
 Clare Hall is of a new and noble designe, but not finish'd. 
 
 Peter House formerly under y e government of my worthy friend Dr. 
 Jo. Cosin Deane of Peterborow *; a pretty neate College having a deli- 
 cate Chapell. Next to Sidney, a fine College. 
 
 Catharine Hall, tho' a meane structure, is yet famous for the learned 
 Bp. Andrews, once Master. Emanuel Colledge, that zealous house, 
 where to the Hall they have a parler for y e Fellows. The Chapell is 
 reform'd, ah origine, built N. and South, meanely built, as is y e 
 Librarie. 
 
 Jesus College, one of the best built but in a melancholy situation. 
 Next to Christ College, a very noble erection, especialy the modern part, 
 built without the quadrangle towards y e gardens, of exact architecture. 
 
 The Schooles are very despicable, and Public Librarie but meane, 
 tho' somewhat improv'd by the wainscotting and books lately added by 
 the Bp. Bancroft's Library and MSS. They shew'd us little of anti- 
 quity, onely K. James's Works, being his owne gift and kept very 
 reverently. 
 
 The Mercat- place is very ample, and remarkable for old Hobson the 
 pleasant Carrier's beneficence of a fountaine -f\ But the whole towne is 
 situate in a low dirty unpleasant place, y e streetes ill paved, the aire 
 thick and infected by the Fennes, nor are its churches (of w ch St. 
 Marie's is the best) any thing considerable in compare to Oxford "j*. 
 
 From Cambridge we went to Audley End, and spent some time in 
 seeing that goodly palace built by Howard Earl of Suffolk, once Lord 
 Treasurer. It is a mixt fabric 'twixt antiq and modern, but observable 
 for its being compleately finish'd, and without comparison is one of the 
 stateliest palaces of the kingdom. It consists of two courts, y e first very 
 large, wing'd with cloisters. The front hath a double entrance ; the 
 hall is faire, but somewhat too small for so august a pile. The kitchen 
 
 * Ejected from all his preferments in 1640 or 1641. Afterwards Bishop of Durham, 
 f It is rather a conduit. 
 
 % The reader must remember that an Oxford man is speaking. 
 
1654.] 291 
 
 is very large, as are the cellars areh'd w th stone, very neate and well 
 dispos'd ; these offices are joyn'd by a wing out of y c way very hand- 
 somely. The gallery is the most cheerfull, and I thinke one of the 
 best in England ; a faire dining-roome, and the rest of y e lodgings 
 answerable, with a pretty chapell. The gardens are not in order, tho' 
 well inclos'd. It has also a bowling-ally, a nobly well wall'd, wooded, 
 and water'd park, full of fine collines and ponds: the river glides before y e 
 palace, to which is an avenue of lime trees, but all this is much diminish'd 
 by its being plac'd in an obscure bottome ; for the rest, it is a perfectly 
 uniform structure, and shewes without like a diadem, by y e decorations 
 of the cupolas and other ornaments on y e pavilions ; instead of railes 
 and balusters, there is a bordure of capital letters, as was lately also on 
 Suffolk House neere Charing Crosse, built by the same Lord Tress 1 "*. 
 
 This house stands in the parish of Saffron Walden, famous for y e 
 aboundance of saffron there cultivated, and esteem'd the best of any 
 forraine country. 
 
 3 Oct. Having din'd here we pass'd thro' Bishop's Stortford, a 
 pretty water'd towne, and so by London late home to Sayes Court, 
 after a journey of fOO miles, but for the variety an agreeable refresh- 
 ment after my turmoil and building, &c. 
 
 10. To my brother at Wotton, who had ben sick. 
 
 14. I went to visit my noble friend Mr. Hyldiard, where I met 
 that learned gentleman my Lord Aungier, and Dr. Stokes, one of his 
 Ma^ s Chaplains. 
 
 15. To Betchworth Castle to S r Ambrose Browne, and other gen- 
 tlemen of my sweete and native country. 
 
 24. The good old parson Higham preach'd at Wotton Church : a 
 plaine preacher, but innocent and honest man. 
 
 23 Oct. I went to London to visit my co. Fanshawe, and this day I 
 saw one of the rarest collections of achates, onyxes, and intaglios, that I 
 had ever seene either at home or abroad, collected by a conceited old 
 hatt-maker in Black Friers, especialy one achat vase, heretofore the 
 greate Earle of Leicester's. 
 
 * Where Suffolk Street is now built. 
 
292 [i654. 
 
 28. Came Lady Langham, a kinswoman of mine, to visit us ; also 
 one Capt". Cooke, esteem'd y e best singer after y e Italian manner of 
 any in England ; he entertain d us with his voice and theorba. 
 
 31. Mv birth -day, being the 34th yeare of my age : blessing God 
 for his providence I went to London to visite my brother. 
 
 3 Dec. Advent Sunday. There being no office at the church, but 
 extemporie prayers after y e Presbyterian way, for now all formes were 
 prohibited, and most of the preachers were usurpers, I seldome went to 
 church upon solemn feasts, but either went to London, where some of 
 the orthodox sequestred Divines did privately use y e Common Prayer, 
 administer sacraments, &c. or else I procur'd one to officiate in my 
 house; wherefore, on the 10th, Dr. Rich d Owen, the sequester'd mi- 
 nister of Eltham, preaeh'd to my family in my library, and gave us y e 
 holv communion. 
 
 25. Christmas Dav. No public offices in churches, but penalties on 
 observers, so as I was constrain'd to celebrate it at home. 
 
 1655. Jan. 1. Having with my Family performed the public offices 
 of the day, and begged a blessing on the yeare I was now entering, I went 
 to keepe the rest of Christmas at my brother's, R. Evelyn at Woodcot. 
 
 19. My wife was brought to bed of another son, being my third 
 but second living. Christen'd on y e 26th by y c ' name of John. 
 
 28. A stranger preached from 3 Collossians, 2, inciting our affections 
 to the obtaining heavenly things. I understood afterwards that this 
 man had ben both Chaplaine and Lieutennent to Admiral Pen, using 
 both swords, whether ordained or not I cannot say; into such times 
 were we fallen ! 
 
 Feb: 24. I was shew'd a table clock whose ballance was onely a 
 chrystall ball sliding on parallel wyers without being at all fixed, but 
 rolling from stage to stage till falling on a spring conceal'd from sight, it 
 was throwne up to the upmost channel againe, made with an impercep- 
 tible declivity, in this continual vicissitude of motion prettily entertain- 
 ing tbe eye every halfe minute, and the next halfe giving progress to 
 the hand that shew'd the houre, and giving notice by a small bell, so as 
 in 120 halfe minutes, or periods of the bullet's falling on the ejacula- 
 torie spring, the clock part struck. This very extraordinary piece 
 
I 
 
 1655.] 293 
 
 (richly adorn'd) had been presented by some German Prince to our 
 late King, and was now in possession of the Usurper, valu'd at 200/. 
 
 2 Mar. Mr, Simson, y e King's jeweler, shew'd me a most rich 
 achat cup of an escalop shape and having a figure of Cleopatra at the 
 scroll, her body, haire, mantle, and vaile of the severall natural co- 
 lours. It was supported by a halfe M. Antony, the colours rarely na- 
 tural, and y L ' work truly antique, but I conceiv'd they were of severall 
 pieces ; had they ben all of one stone it were invaluable. 
 
 18. Went to London on purpose to heare that excellent preacher 
 Dr. Jeremy Taylor on 14 Matt. \ J. shewing what were the conditions 
 of obtaining eternal life : also concerning abatements for unavoidable 
 infirmities, how cast on the accompts of y e Crosse. On the 31st I made 
 a visit to Dr. Jerr. Taylor to conferr with him about some spiritual 
 matters, using him thenceforward as my ghostly father. I beseech God 
 Almighty to make me ever mindful of, and thankful for, his heavenly 
 assistances. 
 
 2 April. This was the first weeke that my V. Pret. [Uncle Pretyman] 
 being parted with his family from me, I began housekeeping, till now 
 sojourning with him in my owne house. 
 
 9. I went to see y e greate ship newly built by the Usurper Oliver, 
 carrying 96 brasse guns, and 1000 tons burthen. In y e prow was Oli- 
 ver on horseback, trampling 6 Nations under foote, a Scott, Irishman, 
 Dutchman, Frenchman, Spaniard, and English, as was easily made 
 out by their several habits. A Fame held a laurel over his insulting 
 head ; y e word, God with us. 
 
 15. I went to London with my family to celebrate y e feast of Easter. 
 Dr. Wild preach'd at St. Gregorie's ; the Ruling Powers conniving 
 at y e use of the Liturgy &c. in this church alone. In y e afternoone 
 Mr. Pierson (since Bp. of Chester) preach'd at East Cheape, but was 
 disturb'd by an alarme of fire, which about this time was very frequent 
 in the Cittie. 
 
 29 May. I sold Preston to Col. Morley. 
 
 June 17. There was a collection for the Persecuted Churches and 
 Christians in Savoy, remnants of the ancient Albigenses. 
 
294 
 
 [1655- 
 
 3 July. I was shew'd a pretty Terrella, describ'd with all y e circles, 
 and shewing all y e magnetic deviations, &c. 
 
 14. Came Mr. Pratt, my old acquaintance at Rome, also Sir Ed- 
 ward Hales, S r Jo. Tufton w h Mr. Seamour. 
 
 1 Aug. I went to Darking to see Mr. Cha. Howard's amphitheater, 
 garden, or solitarie recess*, being 15 acres inviron'd by a hill. He 
 shew'd us divers rare plants, caves, and an elaboratory. 
 
 10. I went to Alburie to visit Mr. Howard, who had begun to build 
 and alter y e gardens much. He shewd me many rare pictures, par- 
 ticularly the Moore on horseback ; Erasmus as big as the life, by Hol- 
 bein ; a Madona in miniature by Oliver; but above all the Skull carv'd 
 in wood by Albert Durer, for which his father was offer'd 100Z.; also 
 Albert's head by himselfe ; with divers rare achates, intalias, and other 
 curiosities. 
 
 21. I went to Rygate to visite Mrs. Gary at my Lady Peterboro's, 
 in an antient monastery well in repaire, but the parke much defac'd; 
 the house is nobly furnish'd. The chimney-piece in the greate chamber, 
 carv'd in wood, was of Hen. 8. and was taken from an house of his in 
 Blechinglee. At Rygate was now y e Archbishop of Armagh, the 
 learned James Usher, whom I went to visite. He receiv'd me exceed- 
 ing kindly. In discourse with him he told me how greate the losse of 
 time was to study much the Eastern languages ; that excepting Hebrew 
 there was little fruite to be gather'd of exceeding labour ; that besides 
 some mathematical bookes, the Arabic itselfe had little considerable ; 
 that the best text was y e Hebrew Bible ; that y e Septuagint was finish'd 
 in *J0 daies, but full of errors, about which he was then writing; that 
 St. Hierom's was to be valued next the Hebrew ; also that the *J0 
 translated the Pentateuch onely, the rest was finish'd by others ; that 
 the Italians at present understood but little Greeke, and Kircher was a 
 mountebank ; that Mr. Selden's best book was his " Titles of Honour;" 
 that the Church would be destroyed by sectaries, who would in all 
 likelihood bring in Poperie. In conclusion he recommended to me y e 
 
 * Called Deepden, the property of Thomas Hope, Esq. (1816.) 
 
1655.'] 
 
 295 
 
 study of Philologie above all human studies ; and so with his blessing I 
 tooke my leave of this excellent person, and returned to Wotton. 
 
 27. I went to Box-hill to see those rare natural bowers, cabinets, 
 and shady walkes in the box copses : Hence we walk'd to Mickleham, 
 and saw Sir F. Stidolph's seate environ'd with elme-trees and walnuts 
 innumerable, and of which last he told us they receiv'd a considerable 
 revenue. Here are such goodly walkes and hills shaded with yew and 
 box as render the place extreamely agreeable, it seeming from these 
 ever-greens to be summer all the winter. 
 
 28. Came that renown'd mathematician Mr. Oughtred * to see me, 
 I sending my coach to bring him to Wotton, being now very aged. 
 Amongst other discourse he told me he thought water to be the philo- 
 sopher's first matter, and that be was well perswaded of the possibility 
 of their elixir; he believ'd the sunn to be a material fire, the moone a 
 continent, as appears by the late Selenographers ; he had strong appre- 
 hensions of some extraordinary event to happen y e following yeare, 
 from the calculation of coincidence with the diluvian period ; and added 
 that it might possibly be to convert y e Jewes by our Saviour's visible 
 appearance, or to judge y e world; and therefore his word was Parate 
 in occursum ; he said original sin was not met with in the Greeke Fa- 
 thers, yet he believ'd y e thing ; this was from some discourse on Dr. 
 Taylor's late booke vv c1 ' I had lent him. 
 
 16. Preach'd at St. Gregorie's one Darnel on 4 Psalm 4. concerning 
 y e benefit of selfe examination ; more learning in so short a time as an 
 hour I have seldom heard. 
 
 17 Sept. Receiv'd 2600/. of Mr. Hurt for the manor of Warley 
 Magna in Essex, purchased by me some time since. The taxes were 
 so intolerable that they eate up the rents &c. surcharged as that county 
 had been above all others during our unnatural war. 
 
 19. Came to see me S r Edw. Hales, Mr. Ashmole, Mr. Harlakenton, 
 and Mr. Thornhill : and the next day I visited Sir Hen. Newton at 
 Charleton, where I met the Earl of Winchelsea and Lady Beauchamp, 
 daughter to the L d Capel. 
 
 * Rector of Albury. 
 
296 
 
 [1^55. 
 
 On Sunday afternoone I frequently stay'd at home to catechise and 
 instruct my familie, those exercises universally ceasing in the parish 
 churches, so as people had no principles, and grew very ignorant of 
 even the common points of Christianity ; all devotion being now plac'd 
 in hearing sermons and discourses of speculative and national things. 
 
 26. I went to see Col. Blount's subterranean warren, and drank of 
 the wine of his vineyard, which was good for little. 
 
 31. Sir Nich. Crisp came to treate with me about his vast designe 
 of a Mole* to be made for ships in part of my grounds at Saves Court. 
 
 3 Nov. I had accidentally discourse with a Persian and a Greeke 
 concerning the devastation of Poland by y e late incursion of the Swedes. 
 
 27. To London about S r Nich s Crisps designs. 
 
 I went to see York House and gardens belonging to the former 
 greate Buckingham, but now much ruin'd thro' neglect f. 
 
 Thence to visit honest and learned Mr. Hartlib J, a public spirited 
 and ingenious person, who had propagated many usefull things and 
 arts. He told me of the Castles which they set for ornament on their 
 stoves in Germany (he himselfe being a Lithuanian as I remember), 
 which are furnish' d with small ordinance of silver on the battlements, 
 out of which they discharge excellent perfumes about the roomes 
 charging them with a little powder to set them on fire and disperse the 
 smoke ; and in truth no more than neede, for their stoves are sufficiently 
 nasty. He told me of an inke that would give a dozen copies, moist 
 sheets of paper being press'd on it, and remaine perfect ; and a receipt 
 how to take off any print without the least injury to the originall. This 
 gentleman was master of innumerable curiosities and very communi- 
 cative. I returned home that evening by water, and was afflicted for it 
 with a cold that had almost kill'd me. 
 
 27. This day came forth the Protectors Edict or Proclamation, pro- 
 hibiting all ministers of the Church of England from preaching or 
 
 * See hereafter, under 1662, January. 
 
 f The Duke's names and titles are still preserved in the buildings erected on the site ; viz. 
 George Street, Villiers Street, Duke Street, Off Alley, Buckingham Street. 
 
 X Samuel Hartlib. Milton's Tractate of Education is addressed to him. Mr. Todd in his Life of 
 that Poet prefixed to the last Edition of his Poetical Works, observes that, " a Life of Hartlib is a 
 desideratum in English Biography:" there are ample materials for it in the publications of the time. 
 
297 
 
 teaching any scholes, in which he imitated the Apostate Julian ; with 
 y e decimation of all y e royal parties revenues throughout England. 
 
 14 Dec. I visited Mr. Hobhs y e famous philosopher of Malmesbury, 
 with whom I had ben long acquainted in France. 
 
 Now were the Jews admitted. 
 
 25. There was no more notice taken of Christmas day in churches. 
 
 I went to London where Dr. Wild preach'd the funeral sermon of 
 Preaching, this being the last day, after which Cromwell's proclama- 
 tion was to take place, that none of the Church of England should 
 dare either to preach or administer Sacraments, teach schoole, &c. on 
 paine of imprisonment or exile. So this was y e inournfullest day that in 
 my life I had seene, or y e Church of England herselfe since y e Refor- 
 mation ; to the greate rejoicing of both Papist and Presbyter*. So 
 pathetic was his discourse that it drew many teares from the auditory. 
 Myself, wife, and some of our family receiv'd y e Communion; God 
 make me thankfull, who hath hitherto provided for us the food of our 
 soules as well as bodies ! The Lord Jesus pity our distress'd Church, 
 and bring back the captivity of Sion ! 
 
 1656. 5 Jan. Came to visit me my Lord Lisle, sonn to y e Earle 
 of Leicester, with Sir Charles Ouseley, two of the Usurper's Coun- 
 cil ; Mr. John Hervey, and John Denham the poet. 
 
 18. Went to Eltham on foote, being a greate frost, but a mist fall- 
 ing as I returned, gave me such a rheume as kept me within doores 
 neere a whole moneth after. 
 
 5 Feb. Was shew'd me a pretty perspective and well represented 
 in a triangular box, the greate Church of Harlem in Holland, to be 
 seene thro' a small hole at one of the corners and contriv'd into an 
 handsome cabinet. It was so rarely don, that all the artists and 
 painters in town flock'd to see and admire it. 
 
 10. I heard Dr. Wilkins -f* preach before y e Lord Mayor in St. 
 Pauls, shewing how obedience was preferable to sacrifice. He was a 
 
 * The text was 2 Cor. 13. 9. That, however persecution dealt with the Ministers of God"s 
 word, they were still to pray for the rlocke, and wish their perfection, as it was the fiocke to pray 
 for and assist their pastors, by the example of St. Paul. J. E. 
 
 t Afterwards Bishop of Chester. 
 VOL,. I. 2 Q 
 
298 [i6 5 6. 
 
 most obliging person, who had married the Protector's sister, and tooke 
 greate pains to preserve the Universities from the ignorant sacrilegious 
 Commanders and Souldiers, who would faine have demolished all 
 places and persons that pretended to learning. 
 
 11. I ventur'd to go to White-hall, where of many yeares I had not 
 ben, and found it very glorious and well furnish'd, as far as I could 
 safely go, and was glad to find they had not much defac'd y l rare piece 
 of Hen. VII. &c. don on the walles of the King's privy chamber. 
 
 14. I dined with Mr. Berkeley, son of Lord Berkeley of Berkeley 
 Castle, where I renewed my acquaintance with my Lord Bruce, my 
 fellow-traveller in Italy. 
 
 19. Went with Dr. Wilkins to see Barlow, y e famous painter of 
 fowls, beasts, and birds. 
 
 4 Mar. This night I was invited by Mr. Roger L'Estrange to hear 
 the incomparable Lubicer on the violin. His variety on a few notes 
 and plaine ground with that wonderful dexterity was admirable. Tho' 
 a young man, yet so perfect and skilfull, that there was nothing, how- 
 ever cross and perplext, brought to him by our Artists, which he did 
 not play off at sight with ravishing sweetnesse and improvements, to 
 the astonishment of our best Masters. In sum he plaid on y* single 
 instrument a full concert, so as the rest flung down their instruments, 
 acknowledging y e victory. As to my own particular, I stand to this 
 hour amaz'd that God should give so greate perfection to so young a 
 person. There were at that time as excellent in their profession as 
 any were thought to be in Europ, Paul Wheeler, Mr. Mell and others, 
 till this prodigie appear'd. I can no longer question the effects we 
 reade of in David's harp to charme evil spirits, or what is said some 
 particular notes produc'd in the passions of Alexander, and that King 
 of Denmark. 
 
 12 April. Mr. Berkeley and Mr. Rob 1 Boyle (that excellent person 
 and greate virtuoso), Dr. Taylor and Dr. Wilkins, din'd with me at 
 Sayes Court, when I presented Dr. Wilkins with my rare burning- 
 glasse. In the afternoone we all went to Col. Blount's, to see his 
 new-invented plows. 
 
 22. Came to see me Mr. Henshaw and S r W m Paston's sonn, since 
 
1656.] 
 
 299 
 
 Earle of Yarmouth. Afterwards I went to see his Majesty's house at 
 Eltham, both Palace and Chapell in miserable ruines, the noble woods 
 and park destroy'd by Rich the Rebell. 
 
 6 May. I brought Mons r le Franc a young French Sorbonnist, a 
 proselyte, to converse with Dr. Taylor ; they fell to dispute on ori- 
 ginal sinn, in Latine, upon a booke newly publish'd by the Doctor, 
 who was much satisfied with the young man. Thence I went to see 
 Mr. Dugdale, our learned Antiquarie and Herald. Returning, I was 
 shew'd the three vast volumes of Father Kircher's " Obeliscus Pam- 
 philius" and " iEgyptiacus ;" in the 2nd volume I found the Hiero- 
 glyphic I first communicated and sent to him at Rome by the hands of 
 Mr. Henshaw, whom he mentions. I design'd it from y e stone itselfe 
 brought me to Venice from Cairo by Cap. Powell *. 
 
 7« I visited Dr. Taylor and prevail'd on him to propose Mons r le 
 Franc to the Bishop that he might have orders, I having some time 
 before brought him to a full consent to the Church of England her 
 doctrine and discipline, in which he had till of late made some diffi- 
 culty ; so he was this day ordain'd both Deacon and Priest by y e 
 Bishop of Meath. I paid the fees to his Lordship, who was very poore 
 and in greate want, to that necessity were our Clergy reduc'd ! In 
 the afternoone I met Alderman Robinson, to treat with Mr. Papillion 
 about y e marriage of my cousin George Tuke with Mrs. Fontaine. 
 
 8. I went to visit Dr. Wilkins at White-hall, when I first met with 
 Sir P. Neale, famous for his optic glasses. Greatorix y e mathematical 
 instrument maker shew'd me his excellent invention to quench fire. 
 
 12. Was publish'd my Essay on Lucretius -j*, with innumerable 
 errata by y e negligence of Mr. Triplet who undertook the correction of 
 
 * See p. 199. 
 
 t A Translation into English verse of the first Book only, the Frontispiece to which was de- 
 signed by Mr. Evelyn's Lady. Prefixed to the copy in the Library at Wotton is this note in his 
 own hand-writing: " Never was book so abominably misused by printer: never copy so negli- 
 gently surveied by one who undertooke to looke over the proofe-sheetes with all exactnesse and 
 care, namely Dr. Triplet, well knowne for his abilitie, and who pretended to oblige me in my 
 absence, and so readily offer'd himselfe. This good yet 1 received by it, that publishing it 
 vainely, its ill successe at the printer's discourag'd me with troubling the worldewith the rest." 
 
300 [i6$6. 
 
 y e press in my absence. Little of y e Epicurean philosophy was then 
 known amongst us. 
 
 28. I din'd with Nieuport y e Holland Ambassador, who receiv'd 
 me with extraordinary courtesie. I found him a judicious, crafty and 
 wise man. He gave me excellent cautions as to the danger of the 
 times, and the circumstances our nation was in. I remember the ob- 
 servation he made upon the ill success of our former Parliaments, and 
 their private animosities, and little care of y e public. 
 
 Came to visit me the old Marques of Argyle (since executed), Lord 
 Lothian, and some other Scotch noblemen, all strangers to me. Note, 
 the Marques tooke the turtle-doves in y e aviary for owles. 
 
 The Earl of Southampton (since Treasurer) and Mr. Spencer, bro- 
 ther to the Earle of Sunderland, came to see my garden. 
 
 7 July. I began my journey to see some parts of y e North East of 
 England, but y e weather was so excessive hot and dusty I shortned 
 my progresse. 
 
 8. To Colchester, a faire towne, but now wretchedly demolished 
 by the late siege, especialy the suburbs, which were all burnt, but 
 were then repairing. The towne is built on a rising ground, having 
 faire meadows on one side, and a river with a strong ancient castle, 
 said to have ben built by K. Coilus, father of Helena mother of Con- 
 stantine the Great, of whom I find no memory save at y e pinnacle of 
 one of their wool-staple houses, where is a statue of Coilus in wood, 
 wretchedly carved. The walles are exceeding strong, deeplv trench'd 
 and fill'd with earth. It has 6 gates and some watch-towres, and some 
 handsome churches. But what was shewed us as a kind of miracle, at 
 the outside of the Castle, the wall where Sir Cha. Lucas and Sir Geo. 
 Lisle, those valiant and noble persons who so bravely behav'd them- 
 selves in the last siege, were barbarously shot, murder'd by Ireton in 
 cold blood after surrendering on articles ; having ben disappointed of 
 relief from the Scotch army, which had ben defeated with the King at 
 Worcester. The place was bare of grasse for a large space, all y e rest 
 of it abounding with herbage. For the rest, this is a ragged and fac- 
 tious towne, now swarming with Sectaries. Their trading is in cloth 
 with the Dutch, and baies and saies with Spain ; it is the only place 
 
301 
 
 in England, where these stuffs are made unsophisticated. It is also fa- 
 mous for oysters and eringo-root, growing here about and candied 
 for sale. 
 
 Went to Dedham, a pretty country towne, having a very faire church 
 finely -situated, the valley well watred. Here I met with Dr. Stokes, 
 a young gentleman but an excellent mathematician. This is a clothing 
 towne, as most are in Essex, but lies in y e unwholesome hundreds. 
 
 Hence to Ipswich, doubtlesse one of the sweetest, most pleasant, well 
 built Townes in England. It has twelve faire churches, many noble 
 houses, especialy y e L d Devereux's ; a brave kay and commodious har- 
 bor, being about 7 miles from y e maine ; an ample mercat-place. Here 
 was born y e greate Cardinal Wolsey, who began a palace here, which 
 was not fmish'd. 
 
 I had y e curiosity to visite some Quakers here in prison ; a new 
 phanatic sect, of dangerous principles, who shew no respect to any 
 man, magistrate or other, and seeme a melancholy proud sort of people, 
 and exceedingly ignorant. One of these was said to have fasted 20 
 daies, but another endeavouring to do y e like, perish'd on the 10th, 
 when he would have eaten but could not. 
 
 10. I return'd homeward, passing againe thro' Colchester; and by 
 the way neere the antient towne of Chelmsford, saw New Hall, built 
 in a parke by Henry 7- ar »d 8- and given by Queen Elizabeth to the 
 Earle of Sussex, who sold it to the late greate Duke of Buckingham, 
 and since seiz'd on by O. Cromwell (pretended Protector). It is a 
 faire old house built with brick, low, being only of 2 stories, as the 
 manner then was ; y e Gate-house better ; the Court large and pretty ; 
 the staire-case of extraordinary widenesse, with a piece representing 
 Sir F. Drakes action in the year 1580, an excellent sea-piece; y e 
 galleries are trifling; the hall is noble; the garden a faire plot, and the 
 whole seate well accommodated with water ; but above all I admir'd 
 the faire avenue planted with stately lime-trees in 4 rowes, for neere a 
 mile in length. It has three descents, which is the only fault, and 
 may be reform'd. There is another faire walk of y e same at the mall 
 and wildernesse, with a tennis-court, and pleasant terrace towards the 
 park, which was well stor'd with deere and ponds. 
 
302 
 
 [1656. 
 
 11. Came home by Greenwich Ferry, where 1 saw Sir Johrt 
 Winter's new project of charring sea-coale, to burne out the sulphure 
 and render it sweete. He did it by burning the coals in such earthen 
 pots as the glasse-men mealt their mettal, so firing them without con- 
 suming them, using a barr of yron in each crucible or pot, which barr 
 has a hook at one end, that so the coales being mealted in a furnace w th 
 other crude sea-coales under them, may be drawn out of y e potts 
 sticking to the yron, whence they are beaten off in greate halfe- 
 exhausted cinders, which being rekindl'd make a cleare pleasant 
 chamber fire, depriv'd of their sulphur and arsenic malignity. What 
 successe it may have, time will discover*. 
 
 3 Aug. I went to London to receive the B. Sacrament, the first 
 time the Church of England was reduced to a chamber and conventicle, 
 so sharp was the persecution. The Parish Churches were fill'd with 
 Sectaries of all sorts, blasphemous and ignorant mechanics usurping the 
 pulpets every where. Dr. Wild f preach'd in a private house in Fleete 
 Streete, where we had a greate meeting of zealous Christians, who were 
 generaly much more devout and religious than in our greatest pros- 
 perity. In the afternoone I went to the French Church in the 
 Savoy, where I heard Mons r d'Espagne catechise, and so return'd to 
 my house. 
 
 20. Was a confus'd election of Parliament cal'd by y e Usurper. 
 
 7 Sept. I went to take leave of my excellent neighbour and friend 
 Sir H. Newton & Lady, now going to dwell at Warwick ; and Mr. 
 Needham, my dear and learned friend, came to visite me. 
 
 14. Now was old Sir Hen. Vane sent to Carisbrook Castle in Wight 
 for a foolish booke he publish'd ; the pretended Protector fortifying 
 himselfe exceedingly, and sending many to prison. 
 
 2 Oct. Came to visit me my co. Stephens, and Mr. Pierce (since 
 Head of Magdalen Coll. Oxford, a learned, minister of Brington in 
 Northamptonshire, and Capt. Cooke, both excellent musicians. 
 
 * Some years ago Lord Dundonald, a Scotch nobleman, revived the project, but with the pro- 
 jected improvement of extracting and saving the Tar. Unfortunately his Lordship did not profit 
 by it. The Gas-Light Company sell the coal thus charred, by the name of Coke, for fuel for many 
 purposes (1818). t See note, p. 319. 
 
1656.2 
 
 303 
 
 2 Nov. There was now nothing practical preached or that pressed 
 reformation of life, hut high and speculative points and straines that 
 few understood, which left people very ignorant and of no steady prin- 
 ciples, the source of all our sects and divisions, for there was much envy 
 and uncharity in the world ; God of his mercy amend it ! Now indeed 
 that I went at all to church whilst these usurpers possess'd the pulpets, 
 was that I might not be suspected for a Papist, and that tho' the Minister 
 was Presbyterianly affected, he yet was as I understood duly ordain'd, 
 and preach'd sound doctrine after their way, and besides was an humble, 
 harmlesse and peaceable man. 
 
 25 Dec. I went to London to receive the B. Communion this holy 
 festival at Dr. Wild's lodgings, where I rejoiced to find so full an 
 assembly of devout and sober Christians. 
 
 26. I invited some of my neighbours and tenants according to cos- 
 tome, and to preserve hospitality and charity. 
 
 28. A stranger preached on 18 Luke, J, 8. on which he made a 
 confused discourse, with a greate deale of Greeke and ostentation of 
 learning to but little purpose. 
 
 30. Dined with me Sir W m . Paston's sonn, Mr. Henshaw and Mr. 
 Clayton. 
 
 31. 1 begged God's blessing & mercys for his goodnesse to mc the 
 past yeere, and set my domestic affaires in order. 
 
 165J. January 1. Having praied w h my family and celebrated y e 
 Anniversarie, I spent some time in imploring God's blessing the yeare 
 I was entred into. 
 
 7 Jan. Came Mr. Matthew Wren (since Secretary to y c Duke, slain 
 in y e Dutch war) eldest son to the Bishop of Ely, now a prisoner 
 in y e Tower; a most worthy and learned gentleman. 
 
 10. Came Dr. Joylife, that famous physician and anatomist, first 
 detector of the lymphatic veins ; also the old Marques of Argyle and 
 another Scotch Earle. 
 
 5 Feb. Din'd at y e Holland Ambass rs ; he told me the East India 
 Company of Holland had constantly a stock of ^£.400,000 in India, and 
 48 men of war there: he spoke of their exact and just keeping their 
 books and correspondence, so as no adventurer's stock could possibly 
 
304 [16*57. 
 
 be lost or defeated ; that it was a vulgar error that y° Hollanders fur- 
 nished their enemies with powder and ammunition for their money, 
 tho' engag'd in a cruell warr, but that they us'd to merchandize indif- 
 ferently, and were permitted to sell to the friends of their enemies. 
 He laugh'd at our Committee of Trade, as compos'd of men wholy 
 ignorant of it, and how they were the ruine of commerce, by gratifying 
 some for private ends. 
 
 10 Feb. I went to visit y e Governor of Havanna, a brave, sober, 
 valiant Spanish gentleman, taken by Capt. Young of Deptford, when 
 after 20 yeares being in the Indies, and amassing greate wealth, his 
 lady and whole family except two sonns were burnt, destroyed and taken 
 within sight of Spaine, his eldest sonn, daughter and wife perishing 
 with immense treasure*. One sonn, of about YJ years old, with his 
 brother of one yeare old, were the onely ones sav'd. The young gen- 
 tleman, about I/, was a well-complexion'd youth, not olive-colour'd ; 
 he spake Latine handsomly, was extreamely well bred, and born in the 
 Caraccas, 1000 miles South of the Equinoxial, neere the mountaines of 
 Potosi ; he had never ben in Europe before. The Governor was an 
 ancient gentleman of greate courage, of y e order of St. Jago, sore 
 wounded in his aroie, and his ribs broken ; he lost for his owne share 
 ,5^.100,000 sterling, which he seem'd to beare with exceeding indif- 
 ference, and nothing dejected. After some discourse I went with them 
 to Arundel House, where they din'd. They were now going back into 
 Spaine, having obtain'd their liberty from Cromwell. An example of 
 human vicissitude ! 
 
 14. To London, where I found Mrs. Cary ; next day came Mr. 
 Mordaunt (since Viscount Mordaunt, younger sonn to y e Countesse of 
 Peterborow) to see his Mistress, bringing with him two of my L d of 
 Dover's daughters : so after dinner they all departed. 
 
 5 Mar. Dr. Rand, a learned physitian, dedicated to me his Version 
 of Gassendus's Vita Peiriskii. 
 
 25. Dr. Taylor shew'd me his MSS. of Cases of Conscience, or 
 Ductor dubitantium, now fitted for y e presse. 
 
 * This disastrous event is particularly noticed in Waller's Poem on a War with Spain. Fight 
 at Sea by General Montague 16"56\ 
 
165 7-] 305 
 
 The Protector, Oliver, now affecting Kingship, is petition'd to take 
 the Title on him by all his new-made sycophant Lords, &c. but dares 
 not for feare of the Phanatics, not thoroughly purg'd out of his 
 Rebell Army. 
 
 21 April. Came Sir Thomas Hanmer of Hanmer in Wales, to see 
 me. I then waited on my Lord Hatton, w h whom I dined : at my 
 returne I stept into Bedlame, where 1 saw several poore miserable 
 creatures in chaines ; one of them was mad with making verses. I 
 also visited the Charter-house, formerly belonging to the Carthusians, 
 now an old neate fresh solitarie Colledge for decaied gentlemen. It has 
 a grove, bowling-greene, garden, chapell, and a hall where they eate in 
 common. I likewise saw Christ-church and Hospital, a very goodly 
 Gotic building; the hall, school, and lodgings in greate order for 
 bringing up many hundreds of poore children of both sexes ; it is an 
 exemplary charity. There is a large picture at one end of the hall, 
 representing the Governors, Founders, and the Institution. 
 
 25. I had a dangerous fall out of y e coach in Covent Garden, going 
 to my brother's, but without harme : the Lord be praised. 
 
 1 May. Divers souldiers were quarter'd at my house, but I thank 
 God went away the next day towards Flanders. 
 
 5. I went with my cousin George Tuke to see Baynards in Surrey, 
 an house of my brother Richard's, which he would have hir'd. This is 
 a very faire noble residence, built in a park, and having one of the 
 goodliest avenues of oakes up to it that ever I saw; there is a pond* 
 of 60 acres neere it; the windows of y e cheife roomes are of very fine 
 painted glasse. The situation is excessively dirty and melancholy -f. 
 
 15. Laurence, President of Oliver's Council, and some other of his 
 Court Lords, came in the afternoon to see my garden and plantations. 
 
 7 June. My fourth sonn was born, christen'd George (after my 
 Grandfather) : Dr. Jer. Taylor officiating in the drawing-room. 
 
 * This pond belongs to Vachery in Cranley. 
 
 -f It is in the lower part of the parish of Ewhurst in Surrey, adjoining to Rudgwick in Sussex, 
 in a deep clay soil. It was formerly the seat of Sir Edward Bray. It belonged to the late Earl of 
 Onslow, who carried the painted glass to his seat at Clandon. 
 VOL. I. 2 R 
 
 i 
 
306 
 
 [1657- 
 
 18. At Greenwich I saw a sort of Catt* brought from the East 
 Indies, shap'd and snouted much like the Egyptian racoon, in y e body 
 like a monkey, and so footed ; the eares and taile like a catt, onely the 
 taile much longer, and the skin variously ringed with black and white; 
 with the taile it wound up its body like a serpent, and so got up into 
 trees, and with it would wrap its whole body round. Its haire was 
 woolly like a lamb; it was exceedingly nimble, gentle, and purr'd as 
 dos y e catt. 
 
 July 16. On Dr. Jer Taylor's recommendation I went to Eltham, 
 to help one Moody, a young man, to that living, by my interest with 
 the Patron. 
 
 6 Aug. I went to see Col. Blount, who shewed me the application 
 of the IVay-iviser to a coach, exactly measuring the miles, and shewing 
 them by an index as we went on. It had 3 circles, one pointing to y e 
 number of rods, another to y e miles, by 10 to 1000, with all the sub- 
 divisions of quarters ; very pretty and useful. 
 
 10. Our Vicar, from John 18. v. 36, declaim'd against y e folly of a 
 sort of enthusiasts and desperate zealots, call'd y e Fifth- Monarchy -Men, 
 pretending to set up the kingdome of Christ with the sword. To this 
 passe was this age ariv'd when we had no King in Israel. 
 
 21. Fell a most prodigious rain in London, and y e yeare was very 
 sickly in the country. 
 
 1 Sept. I visited S r Edmund Bowyer at his melancholy seate at 
 Camerwell. He has a very pretty grove of oakes, and hedges of yew 
 in his garden, and a handsom row of tall elmes before his court. 
 
 15. Going to London with some company, we stept in to see a 
 famous Rope-dauncer call'd The Turk f. I saw even to astonishment 
 y e agilitie with which he perform 'd ; he walk'd barefooted taking hold 
 by his toes only of a rope almost perpendicular, and without so much as 
 touching it with his hands ; he daunc'd blindfold on y e high rope and 
 with a boy of 12 yeares old tied to one of his feete about 20 foote be- 
 neath him, dangling as he daunc'd, yet he mov'd as nimbly as if it had 
 
 * This was probably the animal called a Mocock, well known at present, 
 f Mr. Evelyn again mentions this person in his Numismata, under the name of the Funamble 
 Turk. 
 
307 
 
 ben but a feather. Lastly he stood on his head on y p - top of a very 
 high mast, daunc'd on a small rope that was very slaek, and finally flew 
 downe y e perpendicular, on his breast, his head foremost, his legs and 
 arms extended, with divers other activities. — I saw the hairy woman *, 
 20 years old, whom I had before seen when a child. She was borne at 
 Augsburg in Germany. Her very eye-browes were comb'd upwards, 
 and all her forehead as thick and even as growes on any woman's head, 
 neatly dress'd ; a very long lock of haire out of each eare ; she had also 
 a most prolix beard, and mustachios, with long locks growing on y e 
 middle of her nose, like an Iceland dog exactly, the colour of a bright 
 browne, fine as well-dress'd flax. She was now married, and told me 
 she had one child that was not hairy, nor were any of her parents or 
 relations. She was very well shap'd, and plaied well on y e harpsi- 
 chord, &c. 
 
 17. I went to see S r Rob 1 Needham at Lambeth, a relation of mine ; 
 and thence to John Tradescant's Musaeum, in which the cheifest rarities 
 were, in my opinion, the ancient Roman, Indian, and other nations 
 armour, shields, and weapons ; some habits of curiously-colour'd and 
 wrought feathers, one from y' phcenix wing as tradition goes. Other 
 innumerable things there were, printed in his catalogue by Mr. Ash- 
 mole, to whom after the death of the widow they are bequeath'd, and 
 by him design'd as a gift to Oxford -f\ 
 
 22. To towne to visit y c Holland Ambass r , with whom I had now 
 contracted much friendly correspondence, useful to y e intelligence I 
 constantly gave his Majesty abroad. 
 
 19. Sept. I went to see divers gardens about London : returning, I 
 saw at Dr. Joyliffe's 2 Virginian rattle-snakes alive, exceeding a yard 
 in length, small heads, slender tailes, but in the middle nearly the size 
 of my leg; when vexed, swiftly vibrating and shaking their tailes, as 
 loud as a child's rattle : this, by the collision of certaine grissly skinns 
 curiously jointed, yet loose, and transparent as parchment, by which 
 
 * Barbara Vanbeck. There are two portraits of her, one an engraving, the other in mez- 
 zotinto, described by Mr. Granger in his Biography. There is also another representation of her 
 in some German Book of Natural History. 
 
 t Where they now are in the Ashtnolean Museum. See hereafter, under 1678, July. 
 
308 [1657- 
 
 they give warning : a providential caution for other creatures to avoid 
 them. The Doctor tried their hiting on ratts and mice, w h they im- 
 mediately killed : but their vigour must needes be much exhausted 
 here, in another climate, and kept only in a barrell of bran. 
 
 26 Nov. I went to London to a Court of y e East India Company 
 upon its new union, in Merchant Taylors' Hall, where was much 
 dissorder by reason of the Anabaptists, who would have the adventurers 
 oblig'd onely by an engagement, without swearing, that they still might 
 pursue their private trade ; but it was carried against them. Wednesday 
 was fix'd on for a General Court for election of officers, after a sermon 
 and prayers for good successe. The stock resolv'd on was 800,000/. 
 
 27- I tooke y e oath at the E. India House, subscribing 500Z. 
 
 2 Dec. Dr. Raynolds (since Bishop of Norwich) preach'd before 
 y e Company at St. Andrew Undershaft, on 13 Nehemiah, 31. shewing 
 by the example of Nehemiah all the perfections of a trusty person in 
 publique affaires, with many good precepts apposite to y e occasion, 
 ending with a prayer for God's blessing on the Company and y e un- 
 dertaking. 
 
 3. Mr Gunning preached on 3 John, 3. against y e Anabaptists, 
 shewing y e effect and necessity of the Sacrament of Baptisme. This 
 sect was now wonderfully spread. 
 
 25. I went to London with my wife, to celebrate Christmas-day, 
 Mr. Gunning preaching in Exeter Chapel], on 7 Michah 2. Sermon 
 ended, as he was giving us y e Holy Sacrament, the chapell was sur- 
 rounded with souldiers, and all the communicants and assembly sur- 
 priz'd and kept prisoners by them, some in the house, others carried 
 away. It fell to my share to be confin'd to a roome in the house, 
 where yet I was permitted to dine with the master of it, y c Countesse 
 of Dorset, Lady Hatton, and some others of quality who invited me. 
 In the afternoone came Col. Whaly, Goffe and others, from White-hall, 
 to examine us one by one ; some they committed to y e Marshal, some 
 to prison. When I came before them they tooke my name and abode, 
 examin'd me why, contrarie to an ordinance made that none should 
 any longer observe y e superstitious time of the Nativity (so esteem'd 
 by them), I durst offend, and particularly be at Common Prayers, 
 
309 
 
 which they told me was but y e masse in English, and particularly pray 
 for Charles Steuart, for which we had no Scripture. I told them we 
 did not pray for Cha. Steuart, but for all Christian Kings, Princes, 
 and Governors. They replied, in so doing we praied for the K. of 
 Spaine too, who was their enemie and a papist, with other frivolous 
 and insnaring questions and much threatning ; and finding no colour to 
 detaine me, they dismiss'd me with much pitty of my ignorance. These 
 were men of high flight and above ordinances, and spake spiteful things 
 of our Lord's Nativity. As we went up to receive the Sacrament, the 
 miscreants held their muskets against us as if they would have shot us 
 at the altar, but yet suffering us to finish the office of Communion, as 
 perhaps not having instructions what to do in case they found us in 
 that action. So I got home late the next day, blessed be God. 
 
 1658. 27 Jan. After six fits of a quartan ague with which it pleased 
 God to visite him, died my deare son Richard, to our inexpressible griefe 
 and affliction, 5 years and 3 days old onely, but at that tender age a 
 prodigy for witt and understanding ; for beauty of body a very angel ; 
 for endowment of mind of incredible and rare hopes. To give onely a 
 little taste of some of them, and thereby glory to God, who out of the 
 mouths of babes and infants does sometimes perfect his praises : at 2 
 years and halfe old he could perfectly reade any of y e English, Latine, 
 French, or Gottic letters, pronouncing the three first languages exactly. 
 He had before the 5th yeare, or in that yeare, not onely skill to reade 
 most written hands, but to decline all the nouns, conjugate the verbs 
 regular, and most of y e irregular ; learn'd out Puerilis, got by heart 
 almost y e entire vocabularie of Latine and French primitives and words, 
 could make congruous syntax, turne English into Latine, and vice 
 versa, construe and prove what he read, and did the government and 
 use of relatives, verbs, substantives, elipses, and many figures and 
 tropes, and made a considerable progress in Comenius's Janua ; began 
 himselfe to write legibly, and had a stronge passion for Greeke. The 
 number of verses he could recite was prodigious, and what he remem- 
 ber'd of the parts of playes, which he would also act ; and when seeing 
 a Plautus in one's hand, he ask'd what booke it was, and being told 
 it was comedy, and too difficult for him, he wept for sorrow. Strange 
 
310 
 
 [1658. 
 
 was his apt and ingenious application of fables and morals, for he had 
 read iEsop ; he had a wonderful disposition to mathematics, having by 
 heart divers propositions of Euclid that were read to him in play, and he 
 would make lines and demonstrate them. As to his piety, astonishing 
 were his applications of Scripture upon occasion, and his sense of God ; 
 he had learn'd all his Catechisme early, and understood y e historical 
 part of y e Bible and New Testament to a wonder, how Christ came to 
 redeeme mankind, and how, comprehending these necessarys himselfe, 
 his godfathers were discharged of their promise. These and the like 
 illuminations far exceeding his age and experience, considering the 
 prettinesse of his addresse and behaviour, cannot but leave impressions 
 in me at the memory of him. When one told him how many dayes a 
 Quaker had fasted, he replied that was no wonder, for Christ had said 
 man should not live by bread alone, but by y e Word of God. He 
 would of himselfe select y e most pathetic psalms, and chapters out of 
 Job, to reade to his mayde during his sicknesse, telling her when she 
 pittied him that all God's children must suffer affliction. He declaim'd 
 against y e vanities of y e world before he had seene any. Often he 
 would desire those who came to see him to pray by him, and a yeare 
 before he fell sick, to kneel and pray with him alone in some corner. 
 How thankfully would he receive admonition, how soone be reconciled! 
 how indifferent, yet continually chereful ! He would give grave advice 
 to his brother John, beare with his impertinencies, and say he was but 
 a child. If he heard of or saw any new thing, he was unquiet till he 
 was told how it was made ; he brought to us all such difficulties as he 
 found in books, to be expounded. He had learn'd by heart divers sen- 
 tences in Latin and Greeke, which on occasion he would produce even 
 to wonder. He was all life, all prettinesse, far from morose, sullen, 
 or childish in any thing he said or did. The last time he had ben at 
 church Cw ch was at Greenewich), I ask'd him, according to costome, 
 what he remembered of y e sermon ; two good things, father, said he, 
 bonum gratice and honum glorice, with a just account of what y e 
 preacher said. The day before he died he cal'd to me, and in a more 
 serious manner than usual told me that for all I loved him so dearly, 
 I should give my house, land, and all my fine things, to his brother 
 
311 
 
 Jack, he should have none of them ; and next morning, when he 
 found himself ill, and that I persuaded him to keepe his hands in bed, 
 he demanded whether he might pray to God with his hands un-joyn'd ; 
 and a little after, whilst in greate agonie, whether he should not offend 
 God by using his holy name so often calling for ease. What shall I 
 say of his frequent pathetical ejaculations utter'd of himselfe; Sweete 
 Jesus save me, deliver me, pardon my sinns, let thine angels receive 
 me ! So early knowledge, so much piety and perfection ! But thus 
 God having dress'd up a Saint fit for himselfe, would not longer permit 
 him with us, unworthy of y e future fruites of this incomparable hope- 
 full blossome. Such a child I never saw : for such a child I blesse 
 God in whose bosome he is ! May I and mine become as this little 
 child, who now follows the child Jesus that Lamb of God in a white 
 robe whithersoever he goes ; Even so, Lord Jesus, fiat voluntas tua ! 
 Thou gavest him to us, Thou hast taken him from us, blessed be y e 
 name of y e Lord ! That 1 had any thing acceptable to Thee was from 
 thy grace alone, since from me he had nothing but sin, but that Thou 
 hast pardon'd ! blessed be my God for ever, amen ! 
 
 In my opinion he was suffocated by y e women and maids that tended 
 him, and cover'd him too hot with blankets as he lay in a cradle, near 
 an excessive hot fire in a close roome. I suffer'd him to be open'd, when 
 they found that he was what is vulgarly call'd liver-growne. I caused 
 his body to be coffin'd in lead and reposited on the 30th at 8 o'clock 
 that night in the church of Deptford accompanied with divers of my 
 relations and neighbours, among whom I distributed rings with this 
 motto, Dominus abstulit ; intending, God willing, to have him trans- 
 ported with my owne body to be interr'd in our dormitory in Wotton 
 church, in my dear native county Surrey, and to lay my bones and 
 mingle my dust with my fathers, if God be gracious to me and make 
 me as fit for Him as this blessed child was. The Lord Jesus sanctifv 
 this and all other my afflictions, Amen ! * 
 
 * In the Preface to his Translation of "The Golden Book of St. Chrysostom, concerning the 
 Education of Children," is likewise given a very interesting account of this amiable and promising 
 child. 
 
312 
 
 [1658. 
 
 Here ends the joy of my life, and for which I go even mourning to 
 the grave. 
 
 15 Feb. The afflicting hand of God being still upon us, it pleased 
 Him also to take away from us this morning my youngest sonn, George, 
 now 7 weekes languishing at nurse, breeding teeth, and ending in a 
 dropsie. God's holy will be done ! He was buried in Deptford church 
 y p 17th following. 
 
 25. Came Dr. Jeremy Taylor & my Brothers with other friends to 
 visite and condole with us. 
 
 March 7- To London to hear Dr. Taylor in a private house on 
 13 Luke 23, 24. After the sermon followed the blessed Communion, 
 of which I participated. In the afternoone Dr. Gunning at Excester 
 House expounding part of the Creede. 
 
 This had ben y e severest winter that any man alive had known in 
 England. The crowes feete were frozen to their prey. Islands of ice 
 inclos'd both fish and fowl frozen, and some persons in their boates. 
 
 15 May was a public Fast to avert an epidemical sicknesse, very 
 mortal this spring. 
 
 20. I went to see a coach-race in Hide Park, and collation'd in 
 Spring Garden. 
 
 23. Dr. Manton, the famous Presbyterian, preach'd at Covent Gar- 
 den, on 6 Matthew 10. shewing what the kingdome of God was, how 
 pray for it, &c. 
 
 There was now a collection for persecuted and sequester'd Ministers 
 of the Church of England, whereof divers are in prison. A sad day! 
 The Church now in dens and caves of the earth. 
 
 31. I went to visite my Lady Peterborow, whose sonn, Mr. Mor- 
 daunt, prisoner in the Tower, was now on his trial, and acquitted but 
 by one voice ; but that holy martyr Dr. Hewer was condemn'd to die, 
 without law, jury, or justice, but by a mock Council of State as they 
 call'd it. A dangerous, treacherous time ! 
 
 2 June. An extraordinary storm of haile and raine, y e season as 
 cold as winter, the wind Northerly neere 6 moneths. 
 
 3. A large whale was taken betwixt my land butting on the Thames 
 and Greene wich, which drew an infinite concourse to see it, by water, 
 
1658.] 
 
 313 
 
 horse, coach, and on foote, from London and all parts. It appear' d 
 first below Greenewich at low water, for at high water it would have 
 destroyed all y e boates, but lying now in shallow water incompass'd 
 with boates, after a long conflict it was kill'd with a harping yron, 
 struck in y c head, out of which spouted blood and water by two tun- 
 nells, and after an horrid grone it ran quite on shore and died. Its 
 length was 58 foote, heighth 16; black skin'd like coach leather, very 
 small eyes, greate taile, onely 2 small finns, a picked snout, and a 
 mouth so wide that divers men might have stood upright in it; no 
 teeth, but suck'd the slime onely as thro' a grate of that bone which 
 we call whale-bone ; the throate yet so narrow as would not have ad- 
 mitted the least of fishes. The extreames of the cetaceous bones hang 
 downewards from the upper jaw, and was hairy towards the ends and 
 bottom within side: all of it prodigious, but in nothing more wonderfull 
 then that an animal of so greate a bulk should be nourished onely by 
 slime thro' those grates. 
 
 9. I went to see the Earl of Northumberland's pictures, whereof 
 that of y e Venetian Senators * was one of the best of Titian's, and an- 
 other of Andrea del Sarto, viz. a Madona, Christ, St. John, and an 
 Old Woman, &c. a St. Catharine of Da Vinci, with divers portraits of 
 Van Dyke ; a Nativity of Georgioni ; the last of our blessed Kings 
 (Charles /.) and y e Duke of York, by Lely ; a rosarie by y e famous 
 Jesuits of Bruxelles, and severall more. This was in Suffolk House : the 
 new front towards v e gardens is tollerable, were it not drown'd by a too 
 massie and clomsie pair of stayres of stone, without any neate invention. 
 
 8. That excellent preacher and holy man Dr. Hewer was martvr'd 
 for having intelligence with his Majesty f, thro' the Lord Marques of 
 Ormond. 
 
 10. I went to see y e Medical Garden at Westminster, well stored 
 with plants, under Morgan, a very skilful! botanist. 
 
 26. To Eltham to visite honest Mr. Owen. 
 
 3 Julv. To London, and din'd with Mr. Henshaw, Mr. Dorell, 
 
 * The Cornaro Family, still one of the grand ornaments of Northumberland House. There is a 
 hne Print of it, engraved by Baron. 
 
 t He was beheaded on Tower Hill. He was Minister of St. Gregory's London. 
 VOL. I. 2 s 
 
314 
 
 [1658. 
 
 and Mr. Ashmole, founder of y e Oxford repository of rarities, with 
 divers doctors of physic and virtuosos. 
 
 15. Came to see me my Lord Kilmurrey & Lady, S r . Robert Need- 
 ham, M r Offley, and two daughters of my Lord Willoughby of Parham. 
 
 3 August. Went to Sir John Evelyn at Godstone. The place is 
 excellent, but might be improved by turning some offices of the house, 
 and removing the garden. The house being a noble fabric tho' not 
 comparable to what was first built by my uncle, who was master of all 
 y e powder-mills. 
 
 5. We went to Squirries * to visit my cousin Leech, daughter to 
 Sir John ; a pretty, finely wooded, and well water'd seate, the stables 
 good, the house old, but convenient. 6. Returned to Wotton. 
 
 10. I din'd at Mr. Carew Raleigh's, at Horsley, son to the famous 
 Sir Walter. 
 
 14. We went to Durdans [at Epsom] to a challeng'd match at 
 bowls for 10/. which we wonn. 
 
 18. To Sir Ambrose Brown at Betchworth Castle, in that tem- 
 pestuous wind which threw downe my greatest trees at Sayes Court, 
 and did so much mischeife all over England. It continued the whole 
 night and till 3 in the afternoone of the next day, in the South West, 
 and destroy'd all our winter fruit. 
 
 3 Sept. Died that arch rebell Oliver Cromwell, cal'd Protector. 
 
 16. Was publish'd my Translation of St. Chrysostome on Education 
 of Children, which I dedicated to both my Brothers, to comfort them 
 on the loss of their children. 
 
 21. My Lord Berkeley of Berkeley Castle invited me to dinner. 
 
 26. Mr. King preach'd at Ashted on 15 Proverbs 24; a Quaker 
 would have disputed with him. In the afternoone we heard Dr. Hacket 
 (since Bp. of Lichfield) at Cheame, where the family of the Lumlies lie 
 buried. 
 
 27. To Bedington, that ancient seate of the Carews, a fine old hall, 
 but ascambling house, famous for the first Orange gardens in England, 
 being now over-growne trees, planted in y e ground, and secur'd in win- 
 ter with a wooden tabernacle and stoves. This seate is rarely watred, 
 
 At Westerham, in Kent. 
 
315 
 
 lying low, & inviron'd with good pastures. The pomegranads heare 
 here. To the house is also added a fine park. Thence to Casshalton, 
 excellently watred, and capahle of being made a most delicious seate, 
 being on the sweete dowries, and a champion about it full planted with 
 walnut and cherry-trees, which afford a considerable rent. 
 
 Riding over these downes and discoursing with the shepherds, I 
 found that digging about y e bottom neere Sir Christopher Buckle's *, 
 neere Bansted, divers medails have ben found, both copper and silver, 
 with foundations of houses, urns, &c. Here indeede anciently stood a 
 Citty of y e Romans. See Antonine's Itinerary. 
 
 29. 1 return'd home after 10 weekes absence. 
 
 Oct. 2. I went to London to receive the H. Sacrament. On the 3 d 
 D r Wild preached in a private place on the 1 Isaiah 4. shewing the pa- 
 rallel betwixt the sinus of Israel and those of England. In the after- 
 noone Mr. Hall (sonn to Joseph Bp. of Norwich) on 1 Cor. 6. 2. of 
 the dignitie of the Saints, a most excellent discourse. 
 
 4. I din'd with y e Holland Ambassador at Derby House ; returning, 
 I was diverted to see a very white raven, bred in Cumberland ; also a 
 porcupine, of that kind that shoots its quills, of w rh see Claudian ; it 
 was headed like a rat, the fore feete like a badger, the hind feete like 
 a beare. 
 
 19. I was summoned to London by y c Commissioners for new 
 buildings; afterwards to y e Commission of Sewers; but because there 
 was an oath to be taken of fidelity to the Government as now constituted 
 without a King, 1 got to be excus'd, and return'd home. 
 
 22. Saw y e superb funerall of y e Protector. He was carried from 
 Somerset House in a velvet bed of state drawn by six horses, houss'd 
 w th ye same • the pall held up by his new Lords ; Oliver lying in effigie 
 in royal robes, and crown'd with a crown, sceptre, and globe, like a king. 
 The pendants and guidons were carried by y e Officers of the Army ; 
 the imperial banners, achievements, &c. by y e hereaulds in their coates ; 
 a rich caparison'd horse, embroider'd all over with gold ; a knight of 
 
 * This house is not far from the course of the Roman road from Chichester through Sussex, and 
 passing through Ockley and Dorking church-yard. Considerable remains of a Roman building 
 have been found on Walton Heath, South of this house. 
 
316 
 
 [1653. 
 
 honour arm'd cap-a-pie, and after all, his guards, souldiers, and innu- 
 merable mourners. In this equipage they proceeded to Westminster : 
 but it was the joyfullest funerall I ever saw, for there were none that 
 cried but dogs, which the soldiers hooted away with a barbarous noise, 
 drinking and taking tobacco in the streetes as they went. I returned 
 not home till the 17 th November. 
 
 I was summon'd againe to London by the Commissioners for new 
 foundations to be erected within such a distance of London. 
 
 6 Dec. Now was publish'd my " French Gardener," the first and best 
 of that kind that introduc'd y e use of the Olitorie garden to any purpose. 
 
 23. I went with my wife to keep Christmas at my co. Geo. Tuke's, 
 at Cressing Temple in Essex. Lay that night at Brentwood. 
 
 25. Here was no publiq service, but what we privately us'd. I 
 blessed God for his mercies the yeare past, and 1 Jan y begged a con- 
 tinuance of them. Thus for three Sundays, by reason of the incum- 
 bent's death, here was neither praying nor preaching, tho' there was a 
 Chapell in the house. 
 
 1659. 17 Jan. Our old Vicar preach'd, taking leave of the parish 
 in a pathetical speech, to go to a living in the Citty. 
 
 24 Mar. I went to London to speake to y e patron Alderman Cuttler 
 about presenting a fit pastor for our destitute parish church. 
 
 5 April. Came. y c Earle of Northampton and the famous painter 
 Mr. Wright* to visite me. 
 
 10 April. One Mr. Littler being now presented to y c living of our 
 parish, preach'd on 6 John 55, a sermon preparatory to the Holy 
 Sacrament. 
 
 25. A wonderfull and suddaine change in y e face of y e publiq; y e 
 new Protector Richard slighted ; several pretenders and parties strive 
 for y 8 government : all anarchy and confusion ; Lord have mercy on us ! 
 
 5 May. I went to visite my brother in London, and next day to see 
 a new Opera f, after y° Italian way, in recitative music and sceanes, 
 
 * Mr. Michael Wright, who painted the twelve Judges in Guildhall after the great fire. There is 
 a long account of him in " Walpole's Anecdotes of Painting." See more of him under 1662, Oct. 
 
 t Probably Sir William Davenant's Opera, in which the cruelty of the Spaniards in Peru was 
 expressed by instrumental and vocal music, and by art of perspective in scenes, 4to, 1658. See the 
 " Biographia Dramatica." 
 
1659-] 
 
 317 
 
 much inferior to y c Italian composure and magnificence ; but it was 
 prodigious that in a time of such publiq consternation such a vanity 
 should be kept up or permitted. I being engag'd with company could 
 not decently resist the going to see it, tho' my heart smote me for it. 
 
 7- Came y e Ambass r of Holland and his Lady to visite me, and 
 staid the whole afternoone. 
 
 12. I return'd y e visite, discoursing much of y e revolutions, &c. 
 
 19 May. Came to dine with me my Lord Galloway and his son, a 
 Scotch Lord and learned ; also my Brother and his Lady, Lord 
 Berkeley and his Lady, Mrs. Shirley, and y e famous singer Mrs. 
 Knight*, and other friendes. 
 
 23. I went to Rookwoodf, and din'd with S r W m Hicks, where 
 was a great feast and much company. 'Tis a melancholy old house, in- 
 viron'd with trees and rooks. 
 
 26. Came to see me my Lord Geo. Berkeley, Sir Will. Ducy, and 
 Sir George Pott's sonn of Norfolk. 
 
 29. The Nation was now in extreame confusion and unsettl'd, be- 
 tween the Armies and the Sectaries, the poor Church of England 
 breathing as it M ere her last, so sad a face of things had overspread us. 
 
 7 June. To London, to take leave of my brother, and see y e founda- 
 tions now laying for a long streete and buildings in Hatton Garden, 
 design'd for a little towne, lately an ample garden. 
 
 1 Sept. 1 communicated to Mr. Rob 1 Boyle, son to y c Earle of 
 Corke, my proposal for erecting a philosophic mathematic College. 
 
 15. Came to see me Mr. Brereton, a very learned gentleman, son 
 to my Lord Brereton, with his and divers other ladies. Also Henry 
 Howard of Norfolk, since Duke of Norfolk. 
 
 * Afterwards one of Charles the Second's mistresses. 
 
 t This was a house in Layton in Essex, better known by the name of Rockholt, or Ruckholt, 
 built by Mr. Parvish, a former owner of the estate ; but a new house was afterwards erected near 
 the site of the former by the family of Hicks, of whom William was created a baronet in 1619. . 
 King Charles II. was entertained here one day when he was hunting, and knighted William the son 
 of the Baronet. Morant, in his " History of Essex, vol. I. p. 24, printed 1768, speaks of the 
 new house as having been a beautiful one, pulled down some years ago. Previous to this it had 
 been a place of public entertainment in a morning, at which visitors were regaled with tea 
 and music, which is not mentioned by Morant. 
 
318 
 
 30. I went to visite S r W m . Ducie and Col. Blount, where I met 
 Sir Henry Blount y e famous traveller and water-drinker. 
 
 10. I came with my wife and family to London : tooke lodgings at 
 y c 3 Feathers in Russell Street, Covent Garden, for all the winter, my 
 sonn being very unwell. 
 
 11 Oct. Came to visite me Mr. W m . Coventry (since Secretary to 
 the Duke) son to the Lord Keeper, a wise and witty gentleman. 
 
 The Armie now turn'd out the Parliam 1 . We had now no Govern- 
 ment in the Nation : all in confusion ; no Magistrate either own'd or 
 pretended hut y e Souldiers, and they not agreed. God Almighty have 
 mercy on and settle us ! 
 
 17. I visited Mr. Howard at Arundel house, who gave me a faire 
 onyx set in gold, and shew'd me his designe of a Palace there. 
 
 21. A private Fast was kept by the Church of England Protestants 
 in towne, to beg of God the removal of His judgments, with devout 
 prayers for His mercy to our calamitous Church. 
 
 7 Nov. Was publish'd my bold Aj)ologie for the King in this 
 time of danger, when it was capital to speake or write in favour of him. 
 It was twice printed, so universaly it took. 
 
 9. We observ'd our solemn Fast for y e calamity of our Church. 
 12. I went to see the severall drougs for the confection of Treacle, 
 Dioscordium, and other Electuaries, which an ingenious Apothecarie 
 had not onely prepared and rang'd on a large and very long table, but 
 cover'd every ingredient with a sheete of paper, on which was verv 
 lively painted y e thing in miniature, well to the life, were it plant, 
 flowre, animal, or other exotic droug. 
 
 15 Nov. Din'd with y e Dutch Ambass'. He did in a manner ac- 
 knowledge, that his Nation mind only their own profit, do nothing out 
 of gratitude, but collateraly as it relates to their gaine or security ; and 
 therefore the English were to look for nothing of assistance to the ba- 
 nish'd King. This was to me no very grateful discourse, tho' an inge- 
 nuous confession. 
 
 18. Mr. Gunning celebrated y e wonted Fast, and preached on 2 
 Phil. 12, 13. — Nov. 24. Sir John Evelyn [of Godstone] invited us to 
 the 41st wedding-day feast, where was much company of friends. 
 
10&] 319 
 
 26. I was introduced into the acquaintance of divers learned and 
 worthy persons, Sir John Marsham, Mr. Dugdale, Mr. Stanley, and 
 others. 
 
 9 Dec. I supp'd with Mr. Gunning, it being our Fast-day, Dr. 
 Fearne, Mr. Thrisco, Mr. Chamberlain, Dr. Henchman, Dr. Wild *, 
 and other devout and learned Divines, firm Confessors and excellent 
 persons. Note : Most of them since made Bishops. 
 
 10. I treated privately with Col. Morley -f*, then Lieutenant of the 
 Tower, and in greate trust and power, concerning delivering it to y c 
 King and the bringing of him in, to the greate hazard of my life, but 
 y e Coll. had ben my scholefellow, and I knew would not betray me. 
 
 12. I spent in publiq concerns for his Majesty, pursuing the point 
 to bring over Coll. Morley, and his brother-in-law Fay, Governor of 
 Portsmouth. 
 
 18. Preached y l famous divine Dr. Sanderson (since Bp. of Line.) 
 now 80 yeares old, on 30 Jer. 13. concerning the evil of forsaking God. 
 
 29. Came my Lord Count Arundel of Wardour to visite me. I 
 went also to see my Lord Vis c Montague. 
 
 31. Settling my domestic affaires in order, blessed God for his in- 
 finite mercies and preservations the past yeare. 
 
 Annus Mirabilis 1660. Jan. 1. Begging God's blessings for 
 the following yeare, I went to Excester Chapell, when Mr. Gunning 
 began the yeare on 4 Galatians v. 3 to J , shewing the love of Christ 
 in shedding his blood so early for us. 
 
 12. Wrote to Col. Morley againe to declare for his Majesty. 
 
 22. I went this afternoone to visit Coll. Morley. After dinner 1 
 discours'd with him, but he was very jealous, and would not believe 
 Monk came in to do the King any service ; I told him he might do it 
 without him, and have all the honour. He was still doubtfull, and 
 would resolve on nothing yet, so I tooke leave f. 
 
 * See p. 302. He was of St. John's College, Oxford, Chaplain to Abp. Laud, Vicar of St. Giles, 
 Reading. Adhering to the King he preach'd before the Pari' at Oxford. After the Restoration he 
 was made Bp. of Londonderry in Ireland. He had kept up a religious meeting for the Royalists in 
 Fleet Street. Wood's Athena;, vol. II. p. 251. 
 
 t See a detailed account of Mr. Evelyn's communications with Col. Morley, in the Illustrations 
 at the end of this Volume, No. II. 
 
320 
 
 3 Feb. Kept y e Fast. Generall Monk came now to London out 
 of Scotland, but no man knew what he would do, or declare, yet he 
 was met on all his way by the Gentlemen of all the Counties which he 
 pass'd, with petitions that he would recall the old long interrupted 
 Parliament and settle the nation in some order, being at this time in 
 most prodigious confusion and under no government, every body ex- 
 pecting what would be next and what he would do. 
 
 10. Now were the Gates of the Citty broken down by Gen 1 Monke, 
 which exceedingly exasperated the Citty, the souldiers marching up 
 and down as triumphing over it, and all the old army of the phanatics 
 put out of their posts, and sent out of towne. 
 
 11. A signal day. Monk, perceiving how infamous and wretched 
 a pack of knaves would have still usurped the supreame power, and 
 having intelligence that they intended to take away his commission, 
 repenting of what he had don to y e Citty, and where he and his forces 
 quartered, marches to White-hall, dissipates that nest of robbers, and 
 convenes the old Parliament, the Rump Parliament (so call'd as re- 
 taining some few rotten members of y e other) being dissolv'd ; and for 
 jov whereoff were many thousand of rumps roasted publiqly in v e 
 streetes at the bonfires this night*, with ringing of bells, and universal 
 jubilee. This was the first good omen. 
 
 From 17 Feb. to 5 April I was detain'd in bed with a kind of double 
 tertian, the cruell effects of the spleene and other distempers, in that 
 extremity that my physicians, Drs. Wetherborn, Needham, and 
 Claude, were in great doubt of my recovery, but it pleas'd God to 
 deliver me out of this affliction, for which I render him hearty thanks : 
 going to Church the 8th and receiving the blessed Eucharist. 
 
 During this sicknesse came divers ol my relations and friends to 
 visite me, and it retarded my going into the country longer than I in- 
 tended ; however I writ and printed a letter in defence of his Majesty f, 
 
 * Pamphlets with cuts representing this were printed at the time. 
 
 f The title of it is, " The late News or Message from Brussels unmask'd." This and the pam- 
 phlet which gave occasion for it are printed in " A Collection of interesting Tracts selected from 
 the Sommers Collection of Tracts," 1 vol. 4to, 1795. 
 
1660.'] 321 
 
 against a wicked forg'd paper, pretended to be sent from Bruxells to 
 defame his Majesties person and vertues, and render him odious, now 
 when every body was in hope and expectation of the General and Par- 
 liament recalling him, and establishing y e Government on its antient 
 and right basis. The doing this towards the decline of my sicknesse, 
 and setting up long in my bed, had caus'd a small relapse, out of which 
 it yet pleas'd God also to free me, so as by the 14th I was able to go 
 into y e country, which I did to my sweete and native aire at Wotton. 
 
 3 May. Came the most happy tidings of his Majesty's gracious 
 declaration and applications to the Parliament, Generall, and People, 
 and their dutiful acceptance and acknowledgment, after a most bloudy 
 and unreasonable rebellion of neere 20 yeares. Praised be for ever the 
 Lord of Heaven, who onely doeth wondrous things, because His mercy 
 endureth for ever ! 
 
 8. This day was his Majestie proclaim'd in London, &c. 
 
 9 May. I was desir'd, and design'd to accompany my Lord Berkeley 
 with the public Addresse of the Parliament, Generall, &c. to the King, 
 and invite him to come over and assume his Kingly Government, he 
 being now at Breda ; but 1 was yet so weake I could not make that 
 journey by sea, which was not a little to my detriment, so I went to 
 London to excuse myselfe, returning the 10th, having yet receiv'd a 
 gracious message from his Majestie by Major Scot and Coll. Tuke. 
 
 24. Came to me Col. Morley, about procuring his pardon, now too 
 late seeing his error and neglect of the counsel I gave him, by which 
 if he had taken it he had certainly done y e great work with y e same 
 ease that Monk did it, who was then in Scotland, and Morley in a 
 post to have done what he pleas'd, but his jealousie and feare kept him 
 from that blessing and honor. I address'd him to Lord Mordaunt, 
 then in greate favour, for his pardon, w ch he obtain'd at the cost of 
 1000Z. as I heard. O y e sottish omission of this gentleman ! what did 
 I not undergo of danger in this negotiation, to have brought him over 
 to his Majesty's interest, when it was intirely in his hands ! 
 
 29. This day his Majestie Charles the Second came to London, after 
 a sad and long exile and calamitous suffering both of the King and 
 Church, being \J yeares. This was also his birth-day, and with a 
 
 vol. i. 2 T 
 
322 
 
 [1660. 
 
 triumph of above 20,000 horse and foote, brandishing their swords and 
 shouting with inexpressible joy; the wayes Strew'd with flowers, the 
 bells ringing, the streetes hung with tapissry, fountaines running with 
 wine ; the Maior, Aldermen, and all the Companies in their liveries, 
 chaines of gold, and banners ; Lords and Nobles clad in cloth of silver, 
 gold, and velvet; the windowes and balconies all set with ladies; trum- 
 pets, music, and myriads of people flocking, even so far as from Roches- 
 ter, so as they were seven houres in passing the Citty, even from 2 in 
 y e afternoone till 9 at night. 
 
 I stood in the Strand and beheld it, and bless'd God. And all this 
 was don without one drop of bloud shed, and by that very army which 
 rebell'd against him ; but it was y e Lord's doing, for such a Restaura- 
 tion was never mention'd in any history antient or modern, since the 
 returne of the Jews from the Babylonish captivity ; nor so joyfull a 
 day and so bright ever seene in this Nation, this hapning when to 
 expect or effect it was past all human policy. 
 
 4 June. I receiv'd letters of Sir Rich' 1 . Browne's landing at Dover, 
 and also letters from the Queene, which I was to deliver at White-hall, 
 not as yet presenting myselfe to his Majesty by reason of the infinite 
 concourse of people. The eagerness of men, women, and children to 
 see his Majesty and kisse his hands was so greate, that he had scarce 
 leisure to eate for some dfiyes, coming as they did from all parts of the 
 Nation ; and the King being as willing to give them that satisfaction, 
 would have none kept out, but gave free accesse to all sorts of people. 
 
 Addressing myselfe to the Duke, I was carried to his Majestie when 
 very few noblemen were with him, and kiss'd his hands, being very 
 graciously receiv'd. 1 then return'd home to meete Sir Rich d Browne, 
 who came not till the 8th, after a 19 yeares exile, during all which 
 time he kept up in his chapell the Liturgie and Offices of the Church 
 of England, to his no small honour, and in a time when it was so low, 
 and as many thought utterly lost, that in various controversies both 
 with Papists and Sectaries our Divines us'd to argue for the visibility of 
 the Church, from his chapell and congregation. 
 
 I was all this week too and fro at Court about buisinesse. 
 
 16. The French, Italian, and Dutch Ministers came to make their 
 
1660.] 323 
 
 addresse to his Majesty, one Mons r . Stoope pronouncing the harangue 
 with greate eloquence. 
 
 18. I propos'd y e Ambassy of Constantinople for Mr. Henshaw, but 
 my Lord Winchelsea struck in*. 
 
 Goods that had ben pillag'd from White-hall during y e Rebellion 
 were now daily brought in and restor'd upon proclamation ; as plate, 
 hangings, pictures, &c. 
 
 21. The Warwickshire gentlemen (as did all the shires and cheif 
 townes in all the three Nations) presented their congratulatory Addresse. 
 It was carried by my Lord Northampton. 
 
 30. The Sussex gentlemen presented their Addresse, to which was 
 my hand. I went with it and kiss'd his Ma t,es hand, who was pleas'd 
 to own me more particularly by calling me his old acquaintance, and 
 speaking very graciously to me. 
 
 3 July. I went to Hide-park, where was his Ma t,e and aboundance 
 of gallantrie. 
 
 4. I heard Sir Sara. Tuke harangue to the House of Lords in 
 behalfe of y e Roman Catholics, and his account of the transaction at 
 Colchester in murdering Lord Capel, and the rest of those brave men 
 that suffered in cold bloud, after articles of rendition. 
 
 5. I saw his Ma tie go with as much pompe and splendour as any 
 earthly Prince could do to the greate ditty feast, the first they had 
 invited him to since his returne, but the exceeding raine which fell all 
 that day much eclips'd its lustres. This was at Guild-hall, and there 
 was also all y e Parliament men, both Lords and Commons. The 
 streetes were adorn'd with pageants at immense cost. 
 
 6. His Majestie began first to touch for y e evil, according to cos- 
 tome, thus ; his Ma tle sitting under his State in y e Banquetting House, 
 the Chirurgeons cause the sick to be brought or led up to the throne, 
 where they kneeling, y e King strokes their faces or cheekes with both 
 his hands at once, at which instant a Chaplaine in his formalities says, 
 
 * It was on his return from this embassy that his Lordship visiting Sicily was an eye-witness of 
 the dreadful eruption of Mount ^Etna in 1669, a short account of which was afterwards published 
 in a small pamphlet, with a cut by Hollar of the Mountain, &c. 
 
324 [1660. 
 
 " He put his hands upon them and he healed them." This is sayd to 
 every one in particular. When they have ben all touch'd they come 
 up againe in the same order, and the other Chaplaine kneeling, and 
 having Angel gold* strung on white ribbon on his arme, delivers them 
 one by one to his Ma ,ie , who puts them about the necks of the touched 
 as they passe, whilst the first Chaplaine repeats, "That is y e true light 
 who came into y e world." Then followes an Epistle (as at first a 
 Gospell) with the Liturgy, prayers for the sick, with some alteration, 
 lastly y e blessing; and then the Lo. Chamberlaine and Comptroller of 
 the Household bring a basin, ewer and towell, for his Ma tie to wash. 
 
 The King receiv'd a congratulatory addresse from the Citty of Co- 
 logne in Germany, where he had ben some time in his exile ; his Ma tie 
 saying they were the best people in y e world, the most kind and worthy 
 to him that he ever met with. 
 
 1 recommended Mons r Messeroy to be Judge Advocate in Jersey, by 
 the Vice-Chamberlain's mediations with the Earle of St. Alban's ; and 
 saluted my excellent and worthy noble friend my Lord Ossory, sonn to 
 the Marquess of Ormond, after many yeares absence returned home. 
 
 8. Mr. Henchman preached on 5 Ephes. 5, concerning Christian 
 circumspection. From henceforth was the Liturgie publiquely used in 
 our Churches, whence it had ben for so many yeares banished. 
 
 15. Came Sir Geo. Carterett and Lady to visite us: he was now 
 Treasurer of the Navy. 
 
 28. I heard his Ma ties Speech in the Lords House, on passing the 
 Bills of Tonnage and Poundage ; restauration of my Lord Ormond to 
 his estate in Ireland ; concerning the Commission of Sewers, and con- 
 tinuance of the Excise. — In the afternoone I saluted my old friend the 
 Archbishop of Armagh, formerly of Londonderry (Dr. Bramhall). 
 He presented several Irish Divines to be promoted as Bishops in that 
 kingdom, most of the Bishops in the 3 kingdoms being now almost 
 worne out, and the Sees vacant. 
 
 31. I went to visite S r Philip Warwick, now Secretary to the L d 
 Treasurer, at his house in North Cray. 
 
 Pieces of money so called from having the figure of an angel on them. 
 
1660.'] 325 
 
 Aug. 19. Our Vicar read the 39 Articles to the Congregation, the 
 National Assemblies beginning now to settle, and wanting instruction. 
 
 23. Came Duke Hamilton, Lord Lothian, and several Scottish 
 Lords, to see my garden 
 
 25. Coll. Spencer, Collonel of a Regiment of Horse in our County 
 of Kent, sent to me and intreated that I would take a Commission for 
 a Troope of Horse, and that I would nominate my Lieutenant and En- 
 signs ; I thank'd him the honour intended me, but would by no means 
 undertake y e trouble. 
 
 4 Sept. I was invited to an Ordination by y e Bishop of Bangor in 
 Henry 7 ths Chapell, Westm r , and afterwards saw the audience of an 
 Envoyee from the D. of Anjou, sent to compliment his Ma ties return. 
 
 5. Came to visit and dine with me y e Envoye'e of y e King of Po- 
 land and Resident of y e King of Denmark, &c. 
 
 7- I went to Chelsey, to visite Mr. Boyle, and see his pneumatic 
 engine performe divers experiments. Thence to Kensington, to visite 
 Mr. Henshaw, returning home y* evening. 
 
 ]3. I saw in South wark at St. Margaret's Faire, monkies and apes 
 dance and do other feates of activity on y e high rope ; they were gal- 
 lantly clad a la mode, went upright, saluted the company, bowing and 
 pulling off their hatts ; they saluted one another with as good a grace as 
 if instructed by a dauncing-master ; they turn'd heels over head with 
 a basket having eggs in it, without breaking any ; also with lighted 
 candles in their hands and on their heads without extinguishing them, 
 and with vessells of water without spilling a drop. I also saw an Ita- 
 lian wench daunce and performe all the tricks on y e high rope to admi- 
 ration ; all the Court went to see her. Likewise here was a man who 
 tooke up a piece of iron cannon of about 400 lb. weight with the haire 
 of his head onely. 
 
 17 Sept. I went to London to see y e splendid entry of y e Prince 
 de Ligne, Ambass 1- extraordinary from Spaine ; he was Generall of y c 
 Spanish King's horse in Flanders, and was accompanied w th divers 
 greate persons from thence, and an innumerable retinue. His train 
 consisted of I J coaches with 6 horses of his owne, besides a greate 
 number of English, &e. Greater bravery had I never seene. He was 
 
326 
 
 [i66o. 
 
 receiv'd in the Banquetting House in exceeding state, all y e greate 
 Officers of Court attending. 
 
 13. In the midst of all this joy and jubilee the Duke of Glocester 
 died of y e small pox in the prime of youth, and a prince of extraor- 
 dinary hopes. 
 
 2J. The King receiv'd the Merchants Addresses in his closet, 
 giving them assurance of his persisting to keepe Jamaica, choosing 
 S r Edw. Massy Governor. In the afternoone the Danish Amb rs con- 
 dolencies were presented, on the death of the D. of Gloucester. This 
 evening I saw the Princesse Royal, mother to y e Pr. of Orange, now 
 come out of Holland in a fatal period. 
 
 6 Oct. I paid the greate Tax of Poll Money levied for disbanding 
 the Army, till now kept up. I paid as an Esquire sS.10, and one 
 shilling for every servant in my house. 
 
 7 Oct. There din'd with me a French Count, with S r George Tuke, 
 who came to take leave of me, being sent over to the Queene Mother to 
 breake the marriage of the Duke with the daughter of Chancell r Hide. 
 The Queene would fain have undon it, but it seemes matters were 
 reconcil'd on greate offers of the Chancellor's to befriend y e Queene, who 
 was much in debt, and was now to have the settlement of her affaires 
 go through his hands. 
 
 11 Oct. The Regicides who sat on the life of our late King, were 
 brought to tyal in the Old Bailey, before a Commission of Oyer and 
 Terminer. 
 
 14. Axtall, Carew, Clements, Hacker, Hewson, and Peters, were 
 executed. 
 
 17. Scot, Scroope, Cook, and Jones, suffered for reward of their 
 iniquities at Charing Crosse, in sight of the place where they put to 
 death their natural Prince, and in the presence of the King his sonn 
 whom they also sought to kill. I saw not their execution, but met 
 their quarters mangl'd and cutt and reeking as they were brought from 
 the gallows in baskets on the hurdle. Oh the miraculous providence 
 of God ! 
 
 28. His Majesty went to meet y e Queene Mother. 
 
 29. Going to London, my Lord Maior's shew stopp'd me in 
 
1660.] 
 
 327 
 
 Cheapside ; one of v e pageants represented a greate Wood, with y c 
 Royal Oake and historie of his Majesty's miraculous escape at Boscobel. 
 
 Oct. 31. A rived now to my Fortieth year, I rendered to Almighty 
 God my due and hearty thanks. 
 
 Nov. 1. I went with some of my relations to Court, to shew them 
 his Ma tils cabinet and closset of rarities; the rare miniatures of Peter 
 Oliver after Raphael, Titian, and other masters, which I infinitely 
 esteeme ; also that large piece of y e Dutchesse of Lennox don in ena- 
 maile by Petitot, and a vast number of achates, onyxes and intaglios, 
 especially a medalion of Caesar, as broad as my hand ; likewise rare 
 cabinets of Pietra Commessa ; a landscape of needlework, formerly 
 presented by the Dutch to King Cha. I. Here I saw a vast book of 
 mapps in a volume neere 4 yards large ; a curious ship modell ; and 
 amongst the clocks, one that shew'd the rising and setting of the Sun 
 in y e Zodiaq, the Sunn represented by a face and raies of gold, upon 
 an azure skie, observing y e diurnal and annual motion, rising and 
 setting behind a landscape of hills, the work of our famous Fromantel ; 
 and severall other rarities. 
 
 3. Ariv'd the Queene Mother in England, whence she had ben 
 banish'd almost 20 yeares ; together with her illustrious daughter 
 the Princesse Henrietta, divers Princes and Noblemen accompanying 
 them. 
 
 15. 1 kiss'd the Queene Mother's hand. 
 
 20. I din'd at y e Clerk Comptroler's of the Greene Cloth, being the 
 first day of y e re-establishment of the Court Diet and settling of his 
 Majesty's Household. 
 
 23. Being this day in y e Bedchamber of y e Princess Henrietta, 
 where were many greate beauties and noblemen, I saluted divers of my 
 old friends and acquaintances abroad ; his Majesty carrying my wife to 
 salute the Queene and Princesse, and then led her into his closet, and 
 with his owne hands shew'd her divers curiosities. 
 
 25. Dr. Rainbow preach'd before y e King, on 2 Luke 14. of the 
 glory to be given God for all his mercies, especialy for restoring the 
 Church and government ; now y e service was perform'd with musiq, 
 voices, &c. as formerly. 
 
328 [1660. 
 
 27- Came downe y e Cleark Comptroler [of y e Green Cloth] by the 
 Lord Steward's appointment, to survey y e land at Says Court, on 
 which I had pretence, and to make his report *. 
 
 Dec. 6. I waited on my brother and sister Evelyn to Court. Now 
 were presented to his Majestie those two rare pieces of Drolery, or 
 rather a Dutch Kitchin, painted by Dowe so finely as hardly to be 
 distinguish'd from enamail. I was also shew'd divers rich jewells and 
 chrystal vases ; the rare head of Jo. Belino, Titian's master ; Christ 
 in y e Garden, by Hannibal Caracci ; two incomparable heads by Hol- 
 bein ; the Queene Mother in a miniature, almost as big as the life ; 
 an exquisite piece of carving, 2 unicorns' homes, &c. This in y e 
 Closset. 
 
 13. I presented my son John to the Queene Mother, who kissed 
 him, talked with and made extraordinary much of him. 
 
 14. I visited my Lady Chancellor, the Marchionesse of Ormond, 
 and Countesse of Guildford, all of whom we had knowne abroad in 
 exile. 
 
 18. I carried Mr. Spellman, a most ingenious gentleman, grand- 
 child to the learned Sir Henry, to my Lord Mordaunt, to whom I 
 had recommended him as Secretary. 
 
 22. The marriage of y e Chancellor's daughter being now newly 
 owned, I went to see her, she being Sir Rich' 1 Browne's intimate ac- 
 quaintance when she waited on the Princesse of Orange ; she was 
 now at her father's at Worcester House in the Strand. We all kiss'd 
 her hand, as did also my Lord Chamberlain (Manchester) and Coun- 
 tesse of Northumberland. This was a strange change — can it succeed 
 well ! — I spent the evening at St. James's, whither the Princesse Hen- 
 rietta was retir'd during the fatal sicknesse of her sister the Princesse 
 of Orange, now come over to salute y e King her brother. The Prin- 
 cesse gave my wife an extraordinary compliment and gracious accept- 
 
 * The King's Household used to be supplied with corn and cattle from the different Counties ; 
 and oxen being sent up, pasture grounds of the King near town were allotted for them ; amongst 
 these were lands at Deptford and Tottenham Court, which were under the direction of the Lord 
 Steward and Board of Green Cloth. Sir Richard Browne had the keeping of the lands at Dept- 
 ford. 
 
Dfp&brvU tree** 
 
 .///./<//.- water gate 
 
 f?PP watt t gate 
 
 Srjlichard Browne* House tin the 
 /tstt/tte efQ;EUz. and since, his Son 
 rflh.*t4'phftiv;Sri{iJMn/.f k Af.'J-.'urtttns 
 
 //,<• IK 
 
/*■>/// sr// 
 
 Mcmonuul : 
 
 One Loatter art rinleer-SmiJh arete so rirh as to built/ an 
 house in the Streete with o'tintens Oiantje/ies titna/s £• other 
 oiaaniiieen/r on a Lea.tc.his father war 01' the same tiat/e 
 an simi baptist: I / 
 
 Broome Feild> 
 
 zte of fittildinqs mat/ he scene, that the Towne i.r 
 
 1 neerr as hia as liristo/l '. 
 as nett' built AfJffSSs 
 
 maJe tor Sea me/is Widower, was built by the /hni/t/ 
 iecr of La no* given to that (haritable Work by SfMich? 
 iaur/hter M?'A'uelyn . 
 
 \rt neerr the '/names was built by S/'/fenrjte tiatulen 
 i'lerte faring the ThUoh Warrl665 ice. up on a Lease 
 to John Euefyn X- J? II. Browne, as alto the rest of 
 
 ildinus a.r tar as O ter Start, f J.EJ 
 
 Afitiistrrs ot' this Parish were be/bee the Rebellion . 
 
 VrPaacr, DTVhtentint £• I , 
 
 ~ y learncof men 
 
 I Purina the XeM&fin i 
 
 MfAlalora a quiet /aesbt/ter 
 .liter the h'imfs Restoration li'linton a vera usefult charitable 
 man £■ Af/V/oh/ret . a lera of man. I J.EJ 
 
 s-3 Scale of Perthes do" jo\i . 
 
 1 I ■/» 
 
1660.] 
 
 329 
 
 ance, for the "Character" she had presented her the day before, and 
 which was afterwards printed. 
 
 21. This day died the Princesse of Orange, of y e small pox, w ch 
 wholy alter'd y e face and gallantry of the whole Court. 
 
 25. Preached at the Abbey Dr. Earle, Cleark of his Ma ties Closet 
 and my deare friend, now Deane of Westminster, on 2 Luke 13. 14. 
 condoling the breache made in the publiq joy by the lamented death 
 of y c Princesse. 
 
 30. 1 din'd at Court with Mr. Crane, Cleark of y c Greene Cloth. 
 
 31. I gave God thankes for his many signal mercies to my selfe, 
 Church and Nation, this wonderfull yeare. 
 
 1661. 2 Jan. The Queene Mother, with y e Princesse Henrietta, 
 began her journey to Portsmouth, in order to her returne into France. 
 
 5. I visited my Lord Chancellor Clarendon, w b whom I had ben 
 well acquainted abroad. 
 
 6. Dr. Allestree preach'd at y e Abby, after which 4 Bishops were 
 consecrated, Hereford, Norwich .... 
 
 This night was suppress'd a bloudy insurrection of some Fifth-Mo- 
 narchy enthusiasts. Some of them were examin'd at the Council the 
 next day, but could say nothing to extenuate their madnesse and un- 
 warrantable zeale. 
 
 I was now chosen (and nominated by his Majestie for one of y e 
 Council) by suffrage of the rest of y e Members, a Fellow of y e Philo- 
 sophic Society now meeting at Gressham College, where was an as- 
 sembly of divers learned gentlemen. This being the first meeting since 
 the King's return ; but it had ben begun some yeares before at Oxford, 
 and was continued with interruption here in London during the Re- 
 bellion. 
 
 There was another rising of y e Phanatics, in which some were slaine. 
 
 16. I went to y e Philosophic Club, where was examin'd y e Torri- 
 cellian experiment. I presented my Circle of Mechanical Trades, and 
 had recommended to me y e publishing what I had written of Chalco- 
 graphy. 
 
 25. After divers yeares since I had seen any play, 1 went to see acted 
 "The Scornful Lady," at a new Theater in Lincoln 'slnn Fields. 
 vol. I. 2 u 
 
\ 
 
 330 [1661. 
 
 30. Was the first solemn fast and day of humiliation to deplore y e 
 sinns which so long had provok'd God against this afflicted church and 
 people, order'd by Parliament to be annually celebrated to expiate the 
 guilt of y l execrable murder of the late King. 
 
 This day (O the stupendious and inscrutable judgments of God !) 
 were the carcasses of those arch rebells Cromwell, Bradshaw the Judge 
 who condemn'd his Majestie, and Ireton, sonn-in-law to y e Usurper, 
 dragg'd out of their superb tombs in Westminster among the Kings, 
 to Tyburne, and hang'd on the gallows there from 9 in y e morning till 
 6 at night, and then buried under that fatal and ignominious monument 
 in a deepe pitt ; thousands of people who had seene them in all their 
 pride being spectators. Looke back at Nov. 22, 1658*, [Oliver's 
 funeral,] and be astonish'd ! and feare God and honor y e King; but 
 meddle not with them who are given to change ! 
 
 6 Feb. To London to our Society, where I gave notice of y e visit 
 of y e Danish Ambassador Extraordinary, and was ordered to return 
 him their acceptance of that honour, and to invite him the next 
 meeting day. 
 
 10. Dr. Baldero preach'd at Ely House, on 6 Matthew v. 33. of 
 seeking early the kingdome of God ; after sermon y e Bishop (Dr. 
 Wren) gave us the blessing very pontificaliy. 
 
 13 Feb. I conducted the Danish Ambassador to our meeting at 
 Gressham College, where were shew'd him divers experiments in vacuo, 
 and other curiosities. 
 
 21. Prince Rupert first shewed me how to grave in Mezzo Tinto. 
 
 26. I went to Lord Mordaunt's at Parson's Green \ . 
 
 27. Ash Wednesday. Preached before the King y c Bishop of Lon- 
 don (D r . Sheldon) on 18 Matt. 25. concerning charity & forgivenesse. 
 
 8 March. I went to my Lord Chancellor's, and deliver'd to him y e 
 state of my concernement at Says Court. 
 
 * P. 315. 
 
 ■f This house remained in the family till 17.. , when the Earl of Peterboro' sold it to Mr. 
 Heaviside, who, a few years after sold it to Mr. Merrick, an army argent ; he pulled down the old 
 house, and built the new one, now standing there (1816). 
 
1661.] 331 
 
 9. I went with that excellent person and philsopher S r Rob t . 
 Murray, to visit Mr. Boyle at Chelsey, and saw divers effects of the 
 Eolipile for weighing aire. 
 
 13. I went to Lambeth with S r R. Browne's pretence to y e War- 
 denship of Merton Coll. Oxford, to which, as having ben about 40 
 years before a student of that house, he was elected by the votes of 
 every Fellow except one ; but y e Statutes of y e house being so that 
 unlesse every Fellow agree, y e election devolves to y e Visitor, who is 
 y* Archbishop of Canterbury (Dr. Juxon), his Grace gave his nomina- 
 tion to Sir T. Clayton, resident there and the Physick Professor; for 
 which I was not at all displeas'd, because, tho Sir Rich' 1 miss'd it by 
 much ingratitude and wrong of y c Archbishop (Clayton being no 
 Fellow), yet it would have hinder'd Sir Rich' 1 from attending at Court 
 to settle his greater concernes, and so have prejudic'd me, tho' he was 
 much inclin'd to have pass'd his time in a collegiate life, very unfit for 
 him at that time, for many reasons. So I tooke leave of his Grace, 
 who was formerly L' 1 Treasurer in the reigne of Charles I. 
 
 This afternoone Prince Rupert shew'd me with his owne hands y e 
 new way of graving call'd Mezzo Unto, which afterwards by his per- 
 mission I publish'd in my History of Chalcography ; this set so many 
 artists on worke, that they soone ariv'd to y ( perfection it is since come, 
 emulating the tenderest miniatures. 
 
 Our Society now gave in my relation of y e Pic of Teneriffe in the 
 Greate Canaries, to be added to more queries concerning divers natural 
 things reported of that Island. 
 
 I return'd home with my cousin Tuke, now going for France, as sent 
 by his Ma ty , to condole the death of that greate minister and politician 
 Card 1 . Mazarine. 
 
 29. Dr. Heylin (author of y e Geography) preach'd at y e Abby, on 
 5 Cant. 25. concerning Friendship & Charitie ; he was, I think, at this 
 time quite darke, and so had ben for some yeares. 
 
 31. This night his Ma ,ie promis'd to make my wife Lady of the 
 Jewels (a very honourable charge) to the future Queene, (but which he 
 never perform'd). 
 
332 
 
 [1661. 
 
 1 April. I din'd with that great mathematician and virtuoso Mons. 
 Zulichem *, inventor of y e pendule clock, and dicoverer of the pheno- 
 menon of Saturn's annulus ; he was elected into our Society. 
 
 19. To London, and saw y e bathing and rest of y e ceremonies of the 
 Knights of y e Bath, preparatory to y e Coronation ; it was in y e Painted 
 Chamber, Westm r . I might have receiv'd this honour, but declined it. 
 The rest of y e ceremonie was in the Chapell at White-hall, when their 
 swords being laid on y e altar, the Bishop deliver'd them. 
 
 22. Was y e splendid cavalcade of his Ma tie from y e Tower of London 
 to White-hall, when I saw him in the Banquetting House create 6 
 Earls, and as many Barons, viz. 
 
 Edward Lord Hide f, Lord Chancellor, Earle of Clarendon; sup- 
 ported by y e Earles of Northumberland and Sussex ; y e Earle oi Bedford 
 carried the cap and coronet, the Earle of Warwick the sword, the Earle 
 of Newport the mantle. 
 
 Next, was Capel, created Earle of Essex ; 
 
 Brudenell, - Cardigan ; 
 
 Valentia, - - - Anglesea ; 
 Grenvill, - Bath ; and 
 
 Howard, Earle of Carlisle. 
 
 The Barons were : Denzill Holies ; Cornwallis ; Booth; Townsend; 
 Cooper; Crew; who were all led up by severall Peers, with Garter and 
 Officers of Armes before them ; when, after obedience on their severall 
 approches to y e Throne, their patents were presented by Garter King 
 at Armes, which being receiv'd by y e Lord Chamberlaine and deliver'd 
 to his Majesty, and by him to the Secretary of State, were read and then 
 
 * See hereafter, under 1664, July. 
 
 f In 1656 or 1657, attempts were made to remove the Chancellor (Hyde), by accusing him of 
 betraying his Majesty's Counsels, and holding correspondence with Cromwell ; but these allega- 
 tions were so trivial and frivolous, that they manifestly appeared to be nothing but the effects of 
 malice against him, and therefore produced the contrary effects to those which some desired, and 
 strengthened the King's kindness to him ; as giving him just occasion to believe that these 
 suggestions against him proceeded all from one and the same cause, namely, from the ambition 
 which some people had to enter in his room into the first trust of his Majesty's affairs, if once 
 they could remove him from his station. Life of King James II. from his own papers, 1816, 
 vol. I. p. 274. 
 
1 66\ .] 
 
 333 
 
 againe deliver'd to his Ma t,e , and by him to the severall Lords created ; 
 they were then rob'd, their coronets and collers put on by his Ma 1 "', 
 and they were plac'd in rank on both sides the State and Throne, but 
 the Barons put off their caps and circles and held them in their hands, 
 the Earles keeping on their coronets as cousins to the King. 
 
 I spent the rest of y e evening in seeing the severall arch-triumphals 
 built in y e streetes at severall eminent places thro' which his Majesty 
 was next day to passe, some of which, tho' temporary, and to stand 
 but one yeare, were of good invention and architecture, with inscriptions. 
 
 23. Was the Coronation of his Majesty Charles the Second in y c 
 Abby Church of Westminster ; at all which ceremonie I was present. 
 The King and all his Nobility went to y e Tower, I accompanying my 
 Lord Viscount Mordaunt part of the way ; this was on Sunday the 22d, 
 but indeede his Ma ,ie went not til early this morning, and proceeded 
 from thence to Westnr in this order* : 
 
 First went the Duke of York's Horse Guards. Messengers of y* 
 Chamber. 136 Esq rs to y e Knights of the Bath, each of whom had 
 two, most richly habited. The Knight Harbinger. Serjeant Porter. 
 Sewers of the Chamber. Quarter Waiters. Six Clearks of Chancery. 
 Clearke of the Signet. Clearke of the Privy Seale. Clearks of the 
 Council, of the Parliament, and of the Crowne. Chaplaines in ordi- 
 nary having dignities 10. Kings Advocats and Remembrancer. Coun- 
 cil at Law. M r5 of the Chancery. Puisne Seijeants. Kings Attorney 
 and Solicitor. Kings eldest Serjeant. Secretaries of the French and 
 Latine tongue. Gent. Ushers, Daily Waiters, Sewers, Carvers, and 
 Cupbearers in ordinary. Esquires of the Body 4. Masters of stand- 
 ing offices being no Councellors, viz. of y e Tents, Revels, Ceremonies, 
 Armorie, Wardrobe, Ordnance, Requests. Chamberlaine of the Ex- 
 chequer. Barons of the Exchequer. Judges. Lord Chiefe Baron. 
 Lord C. Justice of the Common Pleas. Master of the Rolls. Lord 
 C. Justice of England. Trumpets. Gentlemen of the Privy Chamber. 
 Knights of the Bath, 68, in crimson robes exceeding rich and the noblest 
 
 * There is a full account of this Ceremony, with fine Sculptures, in a folio volume, published 
 hy John Ogilby 166*2. 
 
334 
 
 [1661. 
 
 shew of y l whole cavalcade, his Ma tie excepted. Knt. Marshall. Treas r 
 of the Chamber. M r of the Jewells. Lords of the Privy Council. 
 Comptroller of the Household. Treasurer of the Household. Trum- 
 pets. Serjeant Trumpet. Two Pursuivants at Armes. Barons. Two 
 Pursuivants at Armes. Viscounts. Two Heraulds. Earles. Lord 
 Chamberlaine of the Household. Two Heraulds. Marquisses. Dukes- 
 Heralds Clarencieux and Norroy. Lord Chancellor. Lord High 
 Steward of England. Two persons representing y e Dukes of Nor- 
 mandy and Aquitain, viz. Sir Rich' 1 Fanshawe and S l Herbert Price, 
 in fantastiq habits of the time. Gentlemen Ushers. Garter. Lord 
 Maior of London. The Duke of York alone (y e rest by two's.) Lord 
 High Constable of England. Lord Great Chamberlaine of England. 
 The Sword borne by y e Earle Marshal of England. The KING in 
 royal robes and equipage. Afterwards follow'd Equerries, Footemen, 
 Gent. Pensioners. Master of the Horse leading a horse richly capa- 
 rison'd. Vice Chamberlaine. Captain of the Pensioners. Captain 
 of the Guard. The Guard. The Horse Guard. The Troope of Vo- 
 lunteers, with many other Officers and Gentlemen. 
 
 This magnificent traine on horseback, as rich as embrodery, velvet, 
 cloth of gold and silver, and jewells, could make them and their pransing 
 horses, proceeded thro' the streetes strew'd with flowers, houses hung 
 with rich tapessry, windoes and balconies full of ladies ; the London 
 Militia lining the ways, and the severall Companies with their banners 
 and loud musiq rank'd in their orders ; the fountaines running wine, 
 bells ringing, with speeches made at the severall triumphal arches ; at 
 that of the Temple Barr (neere which I stood) y e Lord Maior was 
 receiv'd by the Bayliff of Westminster, who in a scarlet robe made a 
 speech. Thence with joyful acclamations his Ma tie passed to Whitehall. 
 Bonfires at night. 
 
 The next day, being St. George's, he went by water to Westm 1 Abby. 
 When his Ma" e was enter'd, the Deane and Prebendaries brought all 
 the regalia, and deliver'd them to severall Noblemen to beare before the 
 King, who met them at the West dore of y e Church singing an an- 
 them, to y c Quire. Then came the Peers in their robes, and coronets 
 in their hands, til his Ma tie was plac'd in a throne elevated before y e 
 
1661.] 
 
 335 
 
 altar. Then the Bishop of London (y e Archbishop of Canterbury 
 being sick) went to every side of y e throne to present the King to the 
 People, asking if they would have him for their King, and do him 
 homage ; at this they shouted 4 times God save King Charles the 
 Second ! Then an anthem was sung. Then his Ma tie attended by 3 
 Bishops went up to the altar, and he ofFer'd a pall and a pound of gold. 
 Afterwards he sate downe in another chaire during y e sermon, which 
 was preach'd by Dr. Morley then Bishop of Worcester. After sermon, 
 the King tooke his oath before the altar to maintain the Religion, 
 Magna Charta, and Laws of the Land. The hymn Veni S. Sp. fol- 
 low'd, and then the Litany by 2 Bishops. Then the Archbishop of 
 Canterbury, present but much indispos'd and weake, said, Lift up 
 your hearts ; at which the King rose up and put off" his robes and 
 upper garments, and was in a waistcoate so opened in divers places that 
 ~y e Archb'p might commodiously anoint him, first in the palmes of his 
 hands, when an anthem was sung and a prayer read ; then his breast 
 and twixt the shoulders, bending of both armes, and lastly on the 
 crowne of y e head, with apposite hymns and prayers at each anoynting ; 
 this don, the Deane clos'd and button'd up y e waistcoate. Then was a 
 coyfe put on, and y e cobbium, svndon or dalmatic, and over this a 
 supertunic of cloth of gold, with buskins and sandals of y e same, spurrs, 
 and the sword, a prayer being first said over it by the Archbishop on 
 y e altar before 'twas girt on by the Lord Chamberlaine. Then the 
 armill, mantle, &c. Then the Archbishop plac'd the crowne imperial 
 on the altar, pray'd over it, and set it on his JYIa ties head, at which all 
 y e Peers put on their coronets. Anthems and rare musiq, with lutes, 
 viols, trumpets, organs, and voices, were then heard, and the Arch- 
 bishop put a ring on his Ma tlts finger. The King next ofFer'd his 
 sword on the altar, which being redeemed was drawn and borne 
 before him. Then y e Archbishop deliver' d him y e sceptre with the 
 dove in one hand, and in the other the sceptre with the globe. Then 
 y e King kneeling, y e Archbishop pronounc'd the blessing. The King 
 then ascending againe his Royal Throne, whilst Te JDeum was singing, 
 all the Peeres did their homage, by every one touching his crowne. 
 The Archbishop and rest of the Bishops first kissing the King ; who 
 receiv'd y e holy sacrament, and so disrob'd, yet with the crowne impe- 
 
336 
 
 [1661. 
 
 rial on his head, and accompanied with all the Nobility in the former 
 order, he went on f'oote upon blew cloth which was spread and reach'd 
 from y e West dore of y e Abby to Westm 1 ' stayres, when he tooke water 
 in a triumphal barge to Whitehall, where was extraordinary feasting. 
 
 24. I presented his Ma tie with his Panegyric* in y e Privy Cham- 
 ber, which he was pleas'd to accept most graciously ; I gave copies to 
 the Lord Chancellor and most of the Noblemen who came to me for it. 
 I din'd at y e Marques of Ormonds, where was a magnificent feaste and 
 many greate persons. 
 
 1 May. I went to Hide Park to take y e aire, where was his Majesty 
 and an innumerable appearance of gallants and rich coaches, being now 
 a time of universal festivitie and joy. 
 
 2. I had audience of my Lord Chancellor about mv title to Says 
 Court. 
 
 3. I went to see y' wonderfull engine for weaving silk stockings, 
 said to have ben y° invention of an Oxford scholler 40 years since ; 
 and I return'd by Fromantil's y° famous clock-maker to see some pen- 
 dules, Mons 1 Zulichem being with us. 
 
 This evening I was with my Lord Brouncker, S r Rob* Murray, S r 
 Pa. Neill, Mons' Zulichem, and Mr. Bull (all of them of our Society 
 and excellent mathematicians), to shew his Ma Ue , who was present, 
 Saturn's annulus as some thought, but as Zulichem affirm'd with his 
 Balleus (as that learned gentleman had published), very neere eclips'd 
 by y e Moon, neere y e Mons Porphyritis ; also Jupiter and Satelites, 
 thro' his Majesty's great telescope, drawing 35 foote ; on which were 
 divers discourses. 
 
 8 May. His Ma tie rod in state, with his imperial crowne on, and 
 all the Peeres in their robes, in great pomp to y e Parliament now 
 newly chosen y c old one being dissolv'd) ; and that evening declar'd in 
 Council his intention to marry the Infanta of Portugal. 
 
 9. At Sir Rob. Murray's, where I met Dr. Wallis, Professor of 
 Geometrv in Oxon, where was discourse of severall mathematicall 
 subjects. 
 
 * Viz. a Poem upon his Majesty's Coronation the "23 of April 1661, being St. George's Day. 
 
166-1.] 
 
 337 
 
 11. Mv wife presented to his Majesty the Madona she had copied 
 in miniature from P. Oliver's painting after Raphael, which she 
 wrought with extraordinary pains and judgment. The King was infi- 
 nitely pleas'd with it, and caus'd it to he plac'd in his cabinet amongst 
 his best paintings. 
 
 13. I heard and saw such exercises at y e election of Scholars at 
 Westm r School to be sent to y e University, in Latin, Greek, Hebrew, 
 and Arabic, in themes and extemporary verses, as wonderfully asto- 
 nish'd me in such youths, with such readiness and witt, some of them 
 not above 12 or 13 years of age. Pity it is that what they attaine here 
 so ripely, they either not retain or do not improve more considerably 
 when they come to be men, tho' many of them do ; and no lesse is to be 
 blamed their odd pronouncing of Latine, so that out of England none 
 were able to understand or endure it. The Examinants or Posers were, 
 Dr. Duport, Greek Professor at Cambridge ; Dr. Fell, Deane of Christ 
 Church Oxon ; Dr. Pierson, Dr. Alestree Deane of Westm r , and any 
 that would. 
 
 14 May. His Majesty was pleas'd to discourse with me concerning 
 several particulars relating to our Society, and y e planet Saturn, &c. 
 as he sat at supper in the withdrawing room to his bed-chamber. 
 
 16. I din'd with Mr. Garmus, the Resident from Hamburgh, who 
 continu'd his feast neere 9 whole hours, according to the custome of 
 his country, tho' there was no greate excesse of drinking, no man 
 being oblig'd to take more than he lik'd. 
 
 22. The Scotch Covenant was burnt by the common hangman in 
 divers places in London. Oh prodigious change ! 
 
 29. This was the first Anniversarie appointed by Act of Parliament 
 to be observed as a day of General Thanksgiving for y e miraculous Re- 
 stauration of his Majesty : our Vicar preaching on 118 Psalm 24. re- 
 quiring us to be thankful & rejoice, as indeede we had cause. 
 
 4 June. Came Sir Cha. Harbord, his Majesties surveyor, to take 
 an account of what grounds I challeng'd at Says Court. 
 
 27. I saw the Portugal Ambassador at dinner with his Ma tie in 
 state, where was excellent musiq. 
 
 VOL. I. 2 X 
 
338 [i66i. 
 
 2 July. I went to see the New Spring Garden at Lambeth, a pretty 
 contriv'd plantation. 
 
 19. We tried our Diving Bell or engine in y e water-dock at Dept- 
 ford, in which our Curator continu'd half an hour under water; it was 
 made of cast lead, let down with a strong cable. 
 
 August 3. Came my Lord Hatton, Comptroller of his Ma ties house- 
 hold, to visite me. 
 
 9. I tried several experiments on y e sensitive plant and humilis, 
 which contracted with the least touch of y e sun thro' a burning glasse, 
 tho' it rises and opens onely when it shines on it. 
 
 I first saw ye famous Queen Pine* brought from Barbados and pre- 
 sented to his Ma tie ; but the first that were ever seen in England were 
 those sent to Cromwell foure years since. 
 
 I din'd at Mr. Palmer's -j* in Gray's Inn, whose curiosity excell'd in 
 clocks and pendules, especialy one that had innumerable motions, and 
 plaied 9 or 10 tunes on the bells very finely, some of them set in parts, 
 which was very harmonious. It was wound up but once in a quarter. 
 He had also good telescopes and mathematical instruments, choice pic- 
 tures, and other curiosities. Thence we went to that famous moun- 
 tebank Jo. Punteus. 
 
 Sir Kenelme Digby presented every one of us his Discourse of the 
 Vegetation of Plants ; and Mr. Henshaw, his History of Salt Petre and 
 Gunpowder. I assisted him to procure his place of French Secretary 
 to the King, which he purchas'd of S 1 ' Hen. De Vic. 
 
 I went to that famous physitian Sir Fr. Prujean, who shew'd me 
 his laboratorie, his work-house for turning, and other mechanics ; 
 also many excellent pictures, especialy y e Magdalen of Caracci ; and 
 some incomparable paisages done in distemper; he plaied to me likewise 
 on y e polj/thore, an instrument having something of the harp, lute, the- 
 orbo, &c. It was a sweete instrument, by none known in England, or 
 describ'd by any author, nor us'd but by this skilfull and learned Doctor- 
 
 * At Kensington Palace is a curious picture of King Charles receiving a pine apple from bis 
 gardener Mr. Rose, who is presenting it on his knees. See hereafter, under 1668, August, 
 f See vol. II. p. 89. 
 
1661.] 339 
 
 15. I went to Tunbridge Wells, my wife being there for the benefit 
 of her health. Walking about the solitudes, I greately admired at the 
 extravagant turnings, insinuations, and growth of certaine birch trees 
 among the rocks. 
 
 13 Sept. I presented my Fumifugium*, dedicated to his Ma*>, who 
 was pleas'd I should publish it by his special commands, being much 
 gratified with it. 
 
 18. This day was read our Petition to his Ma ty for his Royal Grant 
 authorizing our Society to meet as a Corporation, with several privileges. 
 An exceedingly sickly, wet autumn. 
 
 1 Oct. I sail'd this morning with his Ma ty in one of his yachts (or 
 pleasure-boats), vessells not known among us til the Dutch E. India 
 Company presented that curious piece to the King, being very excellent 
 sailing vessells. It was on a wager betweene his other new pleasure 
 boate, built frigate like, and one of the Duke of York's ; the wager 
 100/. ; the race from Greenwich to Gravesend and back. The King 
 lost it going, the wind being contrary, but sav'd stakes in returning. 
 There were divers noble persons and lords on board, his Ma t} some- 
 times steering himselfe. His barge and kitchen boate attended. I 
 brake fast this morning with the King at return in his smaller vessell, 
 he being pleas'd to take me and only foure more, who were noblemen, 
 with him ; but din'd in his yatcht, where we all eate together with his 
 Ma ty . In this passage he was pleas'd to discourse to me about my 
 book inveighing against the nuisance of y e smoke of London, and pro- 
 posing expedients, how by removing those particulars I mentioned -f*, it 
 might be reform'd ; commanding me to prepare a Bill against y e next 
 Session of Parliament, being as he said resolv'd to have something don in 
 it. Then he discours'd to me of y p improvement of gardens and buildings, 
 now very rare in England comparatively to other countries. He then 
 commanded me to draw up the matter of fact happening at the bloudy 
 encounter which then had newly happen'd betweene the French and 
 Spanish Ambass rs neere y e Tower, contending for precedency, at y e 
 
 * This pamphlet having become extremely scarce, was handsomely reprinted for Messrs. White 
 in Fleet Street, in 4to. in 1772. 
 
 t In the Fumifugium before mentioned. 
 
340 
 
 [1661. 
 
 reception of the Sweeds Ambass r ; giving me order to consult S r W'". 
 Compton, Master of y e Ordnance, to informeme what he knew of it, and 
 with his favourite S r Cha. Berkley*, captaine of y e Duke's life guard, then 
 present with his troope and 3 foote companies ; with some other reflec- 
 tions and instructions, to be prepar'd with a declaration to take off the 
 reports w ch went about of his Ma tys partiality in y e affaire, and of his 
 officers and spectators rudenesse whilst y e conflict lasted. So I came 
 home that night, and went next morning to London, where from y e 
 Officers of the Tower, S r W m Compton, S r Cha. Berkley, and others 
 who were attending at this meeting of y e Ambass rs 3 dayes before, 
 having collected what I could, I drew up a narrative in vindication of 
 his Ma' 5 ' and the carriage of his Officers and standers by. On Thurs- 
 day his Ma ty sent one of the pages of the Back Stayres for me to waite 
 on him with my papers in his cabinet, where was present only 
 S r Henry Bennett f (Privy Purse), when beginning to read to his 
 Ma ty what I had drawn up, by the time I had read halfe a page, came 
 in Mr. Secretary Morice with a large paper, desiring to speake with 
 his Ma ty , who told him he was now very buisy, and therefore order'd 
 him to come againe some other time ; y e Secretary replied that what he 
 had in his hand was of extraordinary importance, so the King rose up, 
 and commanding me to stay, went aside to a corner of the roome with 
 the Secretary; after a while the Secretary being dispatch'd, his Ma ty 
 returning to me at the table, a letter was brought him from Madame 
 out of France ; this he read and then bid me proceede from where I 
 left off. This I did til I had ended all the narrative, to his Ma tys 
 greate satisfaction ; and after I had inserted one or two more clauses, in 
 which his Ma ty instructed me, commanded that it should that night 
 be sent to y c Post-house directed to the Lord Ambass r at Paris, (the 
 Earle of St. Alban's) and then at leasure to prepare him a copy 
 which he would publish J. This I did, and immediately sent my papers 
 to the Secretary of State, with his Ma tys expresse command of dispatch- 
 ing them that night for France. Before I went out of his Ma tys closet, 
 
 * Afterwards Earl of Falmouth, who was killed by the side of the Duke of York, in the first 
 Dutch war. f Afterwards Secretary of State, Earl of Arlington, and Lord Chamberlain. 
 
 J The Narrative is reprinted in vol. II. p. 338. 
 
i66l.~] 
 
 341 
 
 he cal'd me back to shew me some ivorie statues, and other curiosities 
 that I had not seene before. 
 
 3. Next evening, being in y e withdrawing roome adjoining the bed- 
 chamber, his Ma ,v espying me, came to me from a greate crowde of 
 noblemen standing neere the fire, and ask'd me if I had don; and told 
 me he fear'd it might be a little too sharp, on second thoughts, for he 
 had that morning spoken with y e French Ambass r , who it seemes had 
 palliated y e matter and was very tame, and therefore directed me where 
 I should soften a period or two before it was publish'd (as afterwards it 
 was*). This night also he spake to me to give him a sight of what was 
 sent, and to bring it to him in his bed-chamber; which I did, and re- 
 ceived it againe from him at dinner next day. But Saturday having 
 finish'd it with all his Ma tvs notes, the King being gon abroad, I sent 
 y e papers to S r Hen. Bennett (Privy Purse and a greate favourite), and 
 slip'd home, being myselfe much indispos'd and harrass'd with going 
 about, and sitting up to write. 
 
 19 Oct. I went to London to visite my Lord of Bristoll, having 
 first ben with Sir John Denham (his Ma" es surveyor) to consult with 
 him about the placing of his palace at Greenwich, which I would have 
 had built between the river and the Queenes house, so as a large square 
 cutt should have let in y e Thames like a bay ; but Sir John was for 
 setting it on piles at the very brink of the water, which I did not as- 
 sent to, and so came away, knowing Sir John to be a better poet than 
 architect, tho' he had Mr. Webb (Inigo Jones's man) to assist him +. 
 
 29. I saw the Lord Maior J passe in his water triumph to West- 
 minster, being the first solemnity of this nature after 20 yeares. 
 
 2 Nov. Came S r Hen. Bennet, since L d Arlington, to visite me, 
 and to acquaint me that his Ma ,y would do me the honor to come and 
 see my garden, but it then being late 'twas deferr'd. 
 
 * Notwithstanding this positive assertion, it is very extraordinary that it has never been inserted 
 in any Library or Auction Catalogue that a gentleman of the greatest research (Mr. Bindley) ever 
 saw. Perhaps it was recalled. 
 
 t See p. 346. 
 
 X Sir John Frederick. The pageant for this day was called " London's Triumph, at the 
 Charges of the Grocers' Company. By John Tatham." 
 
342 [i66l. 
 
 3. One Mr. Breton* preach'd his probation Sermon at our Parish 
 Church, and indeede made a most excellent discourse on 1 John 29. of 
 God's free grace to penitents, so that I could not but recommend him 
 to the patron. 
 
 10. In the afternoone preach'd at the Abby Dr. Basire, that greate 
 travailler, or rather French Apostle, who had ben planting y e Church 
 of England in divers parts of y e Levant and Asia. He shew'd that y e 
 Church of England was for purity of doctrine, substance, decency, and 
 beauty, the most perfect under Heaven ; that England was the very 
 land of Goshen. 
 
 11. I was so idle as to go see a play call'd " Love and Honor-j\" — 
 Din'd at Arundel House ; and that evening discours'd with his Majestie 
 about shipping, in which he was exceeding skilfull. 
 
 15. I din'd with y e Duke of Ormond, who told me there were no 
 moles in Ireland, nor any rats till of late, and that but in one county : 
 but it was a mistake that spiders would not live there, only they were 
 not poysonous. Also that they frequently took salmon with dogs. 
 
 16. I presented my Translation of " Naudseus concerning Libra- 
 ries" to my Lord Chancellor, but it was miserably false printed. 
 
 17. Dr. Creighton, a Scot, author of the " Florentine Council," 
 and a most eloquent man and admirable Grecian, preached on 6 Cant. 
 13. celebrating the returne and restauration of y e Church and King. 
 
 20. At y e Royall Society S r W m Petty propos'd divers things for 
 the improvement of shipping, a versatile keele that should be on hinges, 
 and concerning sheathing ships with thin lead J. 
 
 24. This night his Ma ty fell into discourse with me concerning 
 bees, &c. 
 
 26. I saw Hamlet Prince of Denmark played, but now the old 
 plays began to disgust this refined age, since his Majesties being so long 
 abroad. 
 
 28. I din'd at Chiffinch's house-warming in St. James's Park ; he 
 was his Ma^ s closet keeper §, and had his new house full of good pic- 
 
 * He obtained the Living. 
 
 f A Tragi-Comedy by Sir William Davenant; the performance appears to have been in the 
 morning. 
 
 X Of which see more hereafter. i See vol. II. p. 130. 
 
1661.] 
 
 343 
 
 tures, &c. There tlin'd with us Russell, Popish Bishop of Cape 
 Verde, who was sent out to negotiate his Ma ties match with y e Infanta 
 of Portugal, after y e Ambass r was return'd. 
 
 29. I din'd at the Countesse of Peterhorows, and went that evening 
 to Parsons Greene with my L d Mordaunt, with whom I staid that night. 
 
 1 Dec. I went to take leave of my Lo. Peterborow going now to 
 Tangier, which was to be delivered to the English on the match with 
 Portugal. 
 
 3. By universal suffrage of our philosophic assembly an order was 
 made and register'd that I should receive their public thanks for the 
 honourable mention I made of them by the name of Royal Society in 
 my Epistle dedicatory to the Lord Chancellor before my Traduction of 
 Naudeus. Too great an honor for a trifle. 
 
 4. I had much discourse with y e Duke of York concerning strange 
 cures, he affirmed of a woman who swallow'd a whole ear of barley, 
 which work'd out at her side. I told him of y e knife swalloiu d* and 
 y e pins. 
 
 I took leave of the Bishop of Cape Verde now going in the Fleet 
 to bring over our new Queene. 
 
 7- I din'd at Arundel House, y e day when the greate contest in 
 Parliament was concerning the restoring the Duke of Norfolk; however 
 'twas carried for him. I also presented my little trifle of Sumptuary 
 Laws, intitl'd "Tyrannus" [or "The Mode."]f 
 
 14. I saw otter hunting with the King, and killed one. 
 
 16. I saw a French Comedy acted at White-hall. 
 
 20. The Bishop of Glocester J preached at the Abby at y° funeral 
 of y e Bishop of Hereford, brother to y e Duke of Albemarle. It was a 
 decent solemnity. There was a silver mitre with episcopal robes, born 
 by y e Herauld before y e herse, which was follow'd by the Duke his 
 brother, and all the Bishops with divers noblemen. 
 
 * This refers to the Dutchman, p. 18, and to an extraordinary case, contained in a "mira- 
 culous cure of the Prussian Swallow Knife, &c. by Dan. Lakin, P. C." ijuarto, London, 164'2, 
 with a wood cut representing the object himself and the size of the knife. 
 
 f Reprinted in vol. II. p. 309. + Dr. William Nicholson. 
 
344 
 
 [1662. 
 
 23. I heard an Italian play and sing to the guittar w tb extraordi- 
 nary skill before the Duke. 
 
 1662, 1 Jan. I went to London, invited to the solemn foolerie of 
 the Prince de la Grange at Lincoln's Inn, where came the King, Duke, 
 &c. It began with a grand masque, and a formal pleading before the 
 mock Princes, Grandees, Nobles, and Knights of the Sunn. He had 
 his Lord Chancellor, Chamberlain, Treasurer, and other Royal Offi- 
 cers, gloriously clad and attended. It ended in a magnificent banquet. 
 One Mr. Lort was the young spark who maintain'd the pageantry. 
 
 6 Jan. This evening, according to costome, his Majesty open'd the 
 revells of that night by throwing the dice himselfe in the privy cham- 
 ber, where was a table set on purpose, and lost his 100/. (The yeare 
 before he won 1500/.) The ladies also plaied very deepe. I came 
 away when the Duke of Ormond had won about 1000/. and left them 
 still at passage, carols, &c. At other tables, both there and at y e 
 Groom-porter's, observing the wicked folly and monstrous excesse of 
 passion amongst some loosers ; sorry I am that such a wretched cos- 
 tome as play to that excesse should be countenanc'd in a Court which 
 ought to be an example of virtue to the rest of the kingdome. 
 
 9. I saw acted " The 3d Part of the Siege of Rhodes." In this 
 acted y e faire and famous comedian call'd Roxalana from y e part she 
 perform'd ; and I think it was the last, she being taken to be the Earle 
 of Oxford's Misse (as at this time they began to call lewd women.) It 
 was in recitativa musiq. 
 
 10. Being call'd into his Ma tJS closet when Mr. Cooper, y e rare 
 limner, was crayoning of the King's face and head, to make the 
 stamps by for the new mill'd money now contriving, I had the honour 
 to hold the candle whilst it was doing, he choosing the night and can- 
 dle light for y e better finding out the shadows. During this his Ma^ 
 discours'd with me on several things relating to painting and graving. 
 
 11 Jan. I din'd at Arundel House, where I heard excellent musiq 
 perform'd by the ablest masters both French and English, on theorbos, 
 viols, organs, and voices, as an exercise against the coming of y e 
 Queene, purposely compos'd for her chapell. Afterwards my Lord 
 Aubignie (her Majesty's Almoner to be) shew'd us his elegant lodging 
 
1662.] 345 
 
 and his wheele-chaire for ease and motion, with divers other curiosities ; 
 especialy a kind of artificial glasse or purcelan adorn'd with relievos 
 of paste, hard and beautifull. Lord Aubignie (brother to the Duke 
 of Lennox) was a person of good sense, but wholly abandon'd to ease 
 and effeminacy. 
 
 I receiv'd of Sir Peter Ball, the Queene's Attorney, a draught of 
 an Act against the nuisance of y e smoke of London, to be reform'd by 
 removing severall trades which are the cause of it, and indanger the 
 health of the King and his people. It was to have ben offer'd to y e 
 Parliament as his Majestie commanded. 
 
 12. At St. James's Chapell preach'd, or rather harangu'd, the 
 famous orator Mons r Morus*, in French. There was present the 
 King, Duke, French Ambass r , Lo. Aubignie, Earle of Bristol, and 
 a world of Roman Catholics, drawne thither to hear this eloquent 
 Protestant. 
 
 15 Jan. There was a general fast thro' y e whole nation, and now 
 celebrated at London, to avert God's heavy judgments on this land. 
 There had fallen greate raine without any frost or seasonable cold, not 
 only in England, but in Sweden, and the most Northern parts, being 
 here neere as warme as at midsommer in some yeares. 
 
 This solemn fast was held for y e House of Commons at St. Marga- 
 rets. Dr. Reeves, Dean of Windsor, preach'd on 7 Joshua 12. 
 shewing how y e neglect of exacting justice on offenders (by which he 
 insinuated such of the old King's murderers as were yet reprieved and 
 in y e Tower) was a maine cause of God's punishing a land. He brought 
 in that of the Gibeonites as well as Achan and others, concluding with 
 an eulogie of the Parliament for their loyaltie in restoring y e Bishops 
 and Cleargie, and vindicating the Church from sacrilege. 
 
 16. Having notice of y e Duke of York's intention to visite my poore 
 habitation and garden this day, I return'd, when he was pleas'd to do 
 me that honor of his owne accord, and to stay some time viewing such 
 things as I had to entertaine his curiosity. Afterwards he caus'd me 
 
 * Probably the famous Alexander Morus (the antagonist of Milton) Who was here in the year 
 16*62. He was a very eloquent and much-admired [>reacher. 
 
 VOL. I. 2 Y 
 
346 
 
 [1662. 
 
 to dine with hirn at the Treasurer of y e Navy's house, and to sit with 
 him cover'd at y e same table. There were with his Highness the 
 Duke of Ormond and several lords. Then they view'd some of my 
 grounds about a project for a receptacle for ships to be moor'd in *, \v ch 
 was laied aside as a fancy of S r Nich s Crisp. After this I accompanied 
 the Duke to an East India vessell that lay at Blackwall, where we 
 had entertainment of several curiosities. Among other spirituous 
 drinks, as punch, &c. they gave us Canarie that had ben carried to and 
 brought from y e Indies, w ch was indeede incomparably good. I re- 
 turn'd to London with his highnesse. This night was acted before his 
 Ma tv " The Widow," a lewd play. 
 
 18. I came home to be private a little, not at all affecting the life 
 and hurry of Court. 
 
 24. His Ma ty entertain'd me with his intentions of building his 
 Palace of Greene wich-f, and quite demolishing the old one; on w ch I 
 declar'd my thoughts. 
 
 25. I dined with the Trinity Company at their house, that Corpo- 
 ration being by charter fixed at Deptford. 
 
 3 February. I went to Chelsey to see S l Arthur Gorge's house. 
 
 11. I saw a comedy acted before y e Dutchesse of York at the Cock- 
 pit. The King was not at it. 
 
 17- I went with my Lord of Bristol to see his house at Wimbledon 
 newly bought of y e Queene Mother, to help contrive the garden after 
 the moderne. It is a delicious place for prospect and y e thicketts, but 
 the soile cold and weeping clay. Returned that evening with S r Henry 
 Bennet. 
 
 This night was buried in Westminster Abby the Queene of Bohemia§, 
 after all her sorrows and afflictions, being come to die in the arms of her 
 nephew the King : also this night and the next day fell such a storm of 
 
 * P. 296. t P- 341. 
 
 X It came afterwards to Sarah Duchess of Marlborough, who built a new house there, burnt 
 down a few years since. Now belonging to Earl Spencer, who has built a smaller house. There 
 are two scarce and curious views of the old house, engraved by Winstanley. 
 
 § Elizabeth Eleetrees Palatine, daughter of James I. a woman of excellent understanding and 
 most amiable disposition. 
 
1662.] K 34/ 
 
 hail, thunder and lightning, as never was seene the like in any man's 
 memorie, especialy the tempest of wind, heing South West, which sub- 
 verted besides huge trees, many houses, innumerable chimnies (amongst 
 others that of my parlour at Says Court), and made such havoc at land 
 and sea that severall perish'd on both. Divers lamentable fires were 
 also kindl'd at this time, so exceedingly was God's hand against this 
 ungrateful and vicious Nation and Court. 
 
 20. I return'd home to repaire my house, miserably shatter'd by 
 y e late tempest. 
 
 March 24. I returned home xv h my whole family, which had ben 
 most part of the winter since October at London in lodgings, neere the 
 Abby of Westminster. 
 
 6 April. Being of the Vestry, in the afternoone we order'd that the 
 Communion Table should be set as usual altar-wise, with a decent raile 
 before it, as before the Rebellion. 
 
 17 April. The young Marquis of Argyle, whose turbulent father 
 was executed in Scotland, came to see my garden. He seem'd a man 
 of parts. 
 
 7 May. I waited on Prince Rupert to our Assembly, where were 
 tried severall experiments in Mr. Boyle's vacuum. A man thrusting in 
 his arme upon exhaustion of y e aire, had his flesh immediately swelled 
 so as the bloud was neare bursting the veines: he drawing it oute we 
 found it all speckled. 
 
 14. To London, being chosen one of the Commiss rs for reforming 
 the buildings, wayes, streetes, and incumbrances, and regulating the 
 hackney coaches in the Citty of London, taking my oath before my 
 Lord Chancellor, and then went to his Ma tJS Surveyor's office in Scot- 
 land Yard about naming and establishing officers, adjourning till y e 
 16th, when I went to view how St. Martin's Lane might be made more 
 passable into y e Strand. There were divers Gent" of quality in this 
 Commission. 
 
 25. I went this evening to London, in order to our journey to 
 Hampton Court to see the new Queene, who having landed at Ports- 
 mouth, had ben married to y e King a weeke before by the Bishop of 
 London. 
 
348 
 
 [1662. 
 
 30. The Queene ariv'd with a traine of Portuguese ladies in their 
 monstrous fardingals or guard-infantas, their complexions olivader* 
 and sufficiently unagreeable. Her Ma ty in the same habit, her foretop 
 long and turn'd aside very strangely. She was yet of the handsomest 
 countenance of all y e rest, and tho' low of stature pretily shaped, lan- 
 guishing and excellent eyes, her teeth wronging her mouth by sticking 
 a little too far out; for the rest lovely enough. 
 
 31. I saw the Queene at dinner; the Judges came to compliment 
 her arival, and after them the Duke of Ormond brought me to kisse 
 her hand. 
 
 2 June. The Lord Mayor and Aid" made their addresses to the 
 Queene, presenting her ^.1000 in gold. Now saw I her Portuguese 
 ladies, and the Guarda-damas or Mother of her maids -f, and the old 
 Knight, a lock of whose haire quite cover'd the rest of his bald pate, 
 bound on by a thred, very oddly. I saw the rich gondola sent to his 
 Ma ty from the State of Venice ; but it was not comparable for swift- 
 nesse to our common wherries, tho' manag'd by Venetians. 
 
 4. Went to visite the Earle of Bristoll at Wimbledon. 
 
 8 June. I saw her Ma ty at supper privately in her bed-chamber. 
 
 9. I heard the Queene's Portugal musiq, consisting of pipes, harps, 
 and very ill Voices. 
 
 Hampton Court is as noble and uniforme a pile, and as capacious as 
 any Gotiq architecture can have made it. There is incomparable furni- 
 ture in it, especially hangings design'd by Raphael, very rich with gold; 
 also many rare pictures, especialy the Caesarian Triumphs of Andr, 
 Mantegna, formerly the Duke of Mantua's ; of the tapessrys I believe 
 the world can shew nothing nobler of the kind than the storys of 
 Abraham and Tobit. The gallery of homes is very particular for the 
 vast beames of staggs, elks, antelopes, &c. The Queene's bed was an 
 embrodery of silver on crimson velvet, and cost .^8000, being a pre- 
 
 * Of a dark olive complexion. It has been noticed in other accounts that the Queen's Portuguese 
 Ladies of Honour who came over with her were uncommonly ill-favoured and disagreeable in their 
 appearance. See Fairthorn's curious print of her Majesty in the costume here described. 
 
 t A lady had this title in the reign of King George III. 
 
1662.] 
 
 349 
 
 sent made by y e States of Holland when his Ma ( > returned, and had for- 
 merly ben given by them to our King's sister y c Princesse of Orange, 
 and being bought of her againe was now presented to y e King. The 
 greate looking glasse and toilet of beaten and massive gold was given 
 by the Queene Mother. The Queene brought over with her from Por- 
 tugal such Indian cabinets as had never before ben seene here. The 
 greate hall is a most magnificent roome. The chapell-roof excellently 
 fretted and gilt. I was also curious to visile the wardrobe and tents and 
 other furniture of state. The park formerly a flat naked piece of ground, 
 now planted with sweete rows of lime trees ; and the canall for water 
 now neere perfected ; also the hare park. In y e garden is a rich and 
 noble fountaine, with syrens, statues, &c. cast in copper by Fanelii, 
 but no plenty of water. The cradle-walk of home beame in y e garden 
 is, for the perplexed twining of the trees, very observable. There is 
 a parterre w ch they call Paradise, in w ch is a pretty banquetting-house 
 set over a cave or cellar. All these gardens might be exceedingly im- 
 proved, as being too narrow for such a palace. 
 
 10. I return'd to London, and presented my History of Chalco- 
 graphie (dedicated to Mr. Boyle) to our Society. 
 
 19 June. I went to Albury, to visite Mr. Henry Howard soone after 
 he had procured y e dukedom to be restor'd. This gentleman had now 
 compounded a debt of ^.200,000, contracted by his grandfather. I 
 was much oblig'd to that greate virtuoso, and to this young gentleman, 
 with whom I staied a fortnight. 
 
 2 July. We hunted and kill'd a buck in y e park, Mr. Howard in- 
 viting most of the gentlemen of the country neere him. 
 
 3. My wife met me at Woodcott whither Mr. Howard accompanied 
 me to see my son John, who had ben much brought up amongst Mr. 
 Howard's children at Arundel House, 'til for feare of their perverting 
 him in the Catholic religion, I was forced to take him home. 
 
 8. To London, to take leave of y e Duke and Dutchesse of Ormond, 
 going then into Ireland with an extraordinary retinue. 
 
 13. Spent some time with the L fl Chancellor, where I had discourse 
 w u my Lord Willoughby, Governor of Barbados, concerning divers par- 
 ticulars of that colonic 
 
350 11662. 
 
 28. His Ma' 5 " going to sea to meet the Queene Mother, now coming 
 againe for England, met with such ill weather as greately endancrer'd 
 him. I went to Greenewich, to wait on the Queene now landed. 
 
 30. To London, where was a meeting about Charitable Uses, and 
 particularly to enquire how the Citty had dispos'd of the revenues of 
 Gressham College, and why the salaries of the professors there, were no 
 better improv'd. I was on this commission, with divers Bishops and 
 Lords of the Council, but little was the progresse we could make. 
 
 31. I sate with y e Commiss rs about reforming the buildings and 
 streetes of London, and we ordered the paving of the way from St. 
 James's North, which was a quagmire, and also of the Hav-market 
 about Piqudillo [Piccadilly], and agreed upon instructions to be printed 
 and published for the better keeping the streetes cleane. 
 
 1 Aug. Mr. H. Howard, his brothers Charles, Edward, Bernard, 
 Philip* now y e Queens Almoner, (all brothers of y e Duke of Nor- 
 folk still in Italy) came with a greate traine and din'd with me; Mr. H. 
 Howard leaving with me his eldest and youngest sons Henry and 
 Thomas for 3 or 4 days, my son John having ben sometime bred up 
 in their fathers house. 
 
 4. Came to see me the old Countesse of Devonshire f , with that 
 excellent and worthy person, my Lord, her sonn, from Rowhampton. 
 
 5. To London, and next day to Hampton Court about my purchase, 
 and took leave of S r R. Fanshawe now going Ambassador to Portugal. 
 
 13. Our Charter being now passed under the broad seale, consti- 
 tuting us a Corporation under the name of The Royal Society, for the 
 improvement of naturall knowledge by experiment, was this day read, 
 and was all that was done this afternoone, being very large. 
 
 14. I sat on the commission for Charitable Uses, the Lord Maior 
 and others of the Mercers Company being summon'd to answer some 
 
 * Since Cardinal at Rome. 
 
 f Christian Countess of Devonshire. She was of considerable celebrity for her devotions, hospi- 
 tality, her great care in the management of her son's affairs, and as a patroness of the wits of the 
 age who frequently met at her house: also for her loyalty and correspondence to promote the 
 Restoration. King Charles II. frequently visited her at this place with the Queen Mother and 
 the Royal Family. There is a life of this lady written by Mr. Pomfret. 
 
1662.'] 351 
 
 complaints of the professors grounded on a clause in the will of Sir 
 Tho s Gressham the founder. 
 
 This afternoone the Queene Mother with the Earle of St. Alban's 
 and many greate ladies and persons, was pleas'd to honor my poore villa 
 with her presence, and to accept of a collation. She was exceedingly 
 pleas'd and stay'd till very late in the evening. 
 
 15. Came my Lord Chancellor (y e Earle of Clarendon) and his lady, 
 his purse and mace borne before him, to visit me. They were likewise 
 collation'd with us, and were very merry. They had all ben our old 
 acquaintance in exile, and indeed this greate person had ever ben 
 my friend. His sonn Lord Cornebery was here too. 
 
 17 Aug. Being the Sonday when the Common Prayer Booke 
 reformed and ordered to be used for the future, was appointed to be 
 read, and the solemn League and Covenant to be abjured by all the 
 incumbents of England under penalty of looseing their livings; our 
 Vicar read it this morning. 
 
 20. There were strong guards in y e Citty this day, apprehending 
 some tumults, many of the Presbyterian Ministers not conforming. I 
 dined with the Vice Chamberlaine, and then went to see the Queene 
 Mother, who was pleas'd to give me many thanks for the entertainment 
 she receiv'd at my house, when she recounted to me many observable 
 stories of the sagacity of some dogs she formerly had. 
 
 21. I was admitted and then sworne one of y e Council of y e Royal 
 Society, being nominated in his Ma ty5 original grant to be of this 
 Council for the regulation of this Society, and making laws and statutes 
 conducible to its establishment and progresse, for which we now set 
 apart every Wednesday morning till they were all finished. Lord 
 Visct. Brouncker (that excellent mathematician) was also by his Ma ty 
 our Founder nominated our first President. The King gave us the 
 armes of England to be borne in a canton in our armes, and sent us a 
 mace of silver gilt of y e same fashion and bigness as those carried 
 before his Ma ty , to be borne before our President on meeting daies. It 
 was brought by S r Gilb. Talbot, Master of his Ma tys Jewel-house. 
 
 22. I din'd with my Lord Brouncker and S r Rob 1 Morray, and 
 then went to consult about a new-model'd ship at Lambeth, the 
 
 1 
 
352 
 
 [1662. 
 
 intention being to reduce that art to as certaine a method as any other 
 part of architecture. 
 
 23 Aug. I was spectator of the most magnificent triumph that ever 
 floated on the Thames*, considering the innumerable boates and 
 vessells, dress'd and adorn'd with all imaginable pomp, but above all 
 the thrones, arches, pageants, and other representations, stately barges 
 of the Lord Maior and Companies, with various inventions, musiq and 
 peales of ordnance both from y e vessels and the shore, going to meete 
 and conduct the new Queene from Hampton Court to White-hall, at 
 the first time of her coming to towne. In my opinion it far exceeded all 
 y e Venetian Bucentoras, &c. on the Ascension, when they go to espouse 
 the Adriatic. His Ma t,e and the Queene came in an antiq-shap'd open 
 vessell, cover'd with a state or canopy of cloth of gold, made in form 
 of a cupola, supported with high Corinthian pillars, wreath'd with 
 flowers, festoons, and garlands. I was in our new-built vessell, sailing 
 amongst them. 
 
 29. The Council and Fellows of y e Royal Society went in a body to 
 White-hall to acknowledge his Ma tvs royal grace in granting our 
 charter, and vouchsafing to be himselfe our Founder; when the Presi- 
 dent made an eloquent speech, to which his Ma'> gave a gracious reply, 
 and we all kiss'd his hand. Next day we went in like manner with our 
 addresse to my Lo. Chancellor, who had much promoted our Patent; 
 he receiv'd us with extraordinary favour. In the evening I went to the 
 Queene Mother's Court, and had much discourse with her. 
 
 1 Sept. Being invited by Lo. Berkley, I went to Durdans f , where 
 din'd his Majestie, the Queene, Duke, Dutchesse, Prince Rupert, Prince 
 Edward, and aboundance of Noblemen. I went after dinner to visit 
 my brother of Woodcot, my sister having ben deliver'd of a son a 
 little before, but who had now ben two days dead. 
 
 4 Sept. Commission for charitable uses, my L d Maior and Alder- 
 men being againe summon'd, and the improvements of Sir Tho. 
 
 * An account of this solemnity was published in " Aqua Triumphalis ; being a true relation of 
 the honourable City of London entertaining their Sacred Majesties upon the River of Thames, and 
 welcoming them from Hampton Court to White-hall, &c. Engraved by John Tatham," folio, 166*2. 
 
 t At Epsom. 
 
1662.] 
 
 353 
 
 Gressham's estate examin'd. There were present the Bp. of London, 
 the Lord Chief Justice, and the King's Attorney. 
 
 6. Dined w lb me S p Edward Walker, Garter King at Armes, Mr. 
 Slingsby, Master of the Mint, and severall others. 
 
 17. We now resolv'd that the armes of the Society should be, a 
 field Argent, with a canton of the armes of England ; the supporters two 
 talbots Argent; Crest, an eagle Or holding a shield with the like armes 
 of England, viz. 3 lions. The words Nullius in verba. It was pre- 
 sented to his Ma ty for his approbation, and orders given to Garter 
 King at Armes, to passe the diploma of their office for it. 
 
 20. I presented a petition to his Ma 1y about my own concerns, 
 and afterwards accompanied him to Moris 1 " Febure, his chymist, (and 
 who had formerly ben my master in Paris) to see his accurate prepa- 
 ration for y e composing S r Walter Ralegh's rare cordial ; he made a 
 learned discourse before his Ma (> in French on each ingredient. 
 
 27- Came to visite me S r Geo. Savell*, grandson to y e learned Sir 
 Hen. Savell, who publish'd St. Chrysostome. S r Geo. was a witty 
 gentleman, if not a little too prompt and daring. 
 
 3 Oct. I was invited to the Colledge of Physitians, where Dr. 
 Meret, a learned man and Library Keeper, shew'd me the Library, 
 Theater for Anatomie, and divers natural curiosities ; the statue and 
 epigraph under it of that renowned physitian Dr. Harvey, discoverer, 
 of the circulation of the blood. There I saw Dr. Gilbert, S r W'" 
 Paddy's, and other pictures of men famous in their faculty. 
 
 Visited Mr. Wright \, a Scotsman, who had liv'd long at Rome and 
 was esteem'd a good painter. The pictures of the Judges at Guild-hall 
 are of his hand, and so are some pieces in White-hall, as y c roofe in 
 his Majesties old bed-chamber, being Astrea, the St. Catherine, and a 
 chimney-piece in the Queene's privy chamber; but his best, in inv 
 opinion, is Lacy the famous Roscius or comedian, whom he has painted 
 in three dresses, as a gallant, a Presbyterian minister, and a Scotch 
 highlander in his plaid. It is in his Ma l -' s dining-room at Windsor. 
 He had at his house an excellent collection, especialy that small piece 
 
 * Afterwards the celebrated Marquis of Halifax. 
 VOL. I. 2 z 
 
 f See p. 316. 
 
354 
 
 [1662. 
 
 of Corregio, Scotus of de la Marca, a designe of Paulo, and above all 
 those ruines of Polydore, with some good achates and medaills, especialy 
 a Scipio, and a Caesar's head of gold. 
 
 15. I this day deliver'd my Discourse concerning Forest Trees to the 
 Society, upon occasion of certain queries sent to us by the Commissioners 
 of his M atN ' s Navy, being the first booke that was printed by order of 
 the Society, and by their Printer, since it was a Corporation. 
 
 16. I saw " Volpone" acted at Court before their Ma ties . 
 
 21. To the Queene Mother's Court, where her Ma ty related to us 
 divers passages of her escapes during the Rebellion and Warrs in 
 England. 
 
 28 Oct. To Court in y e evening, where y e Queene Mother, y e 
 Queene Consort, and his Ma^, being advertis'd of some disturbance, for- 
 bore to go to the Lord Maior's shew and feast appointed next day, the 
 new Queene not having yet seen y l triumph. 
 
 29. Was my Lo. Maior's* shew, with a number of sumptuous 
 pageants, speeches, and verses. 1 was standing in an house in Cheape- 
 side against the place prepar'd for their Ma" es . The Prince and heire of 
 Denmark was there, but not our King. There were also y e maids of 
 honor. I went to Court this evening, and had much discourse with Dr. 
 Basiersf, one of his Ma^' s chaplains, the greate traveller, who shew'd 
 me the syngraphs and original subscriptions of divers Eastern Patriarchs 
 and Asian Churches to our Confession. 
 
 4 Nov. I was invited to the wedding of y e daughter of S r Geo. 
 Carterat (y e Treasurer of y e Navy and King's Vice-Chamberlain), mar- 
 ried to Sir Nich\ Slaning, Kn l of the Bath ; by the Bishop of London 
 in y e Savoy Chapell ; after which was an extraordinary feast. 
 
 5. The Council of y e R. Society met to amend the Statutes, and 
 dined together : afterwards meeting at Gressham College, where was a 
 discourse suggested by me, concerning planting his Ma t)S Forest of 
 Deane with oake, now so much exhausted of y e choicest ship-timber 
 in the world. 
 
 * Sir John Robinson, Knt. and Bart. Clothworker. The pageant on this occasion was called 
 " London's Triumph, at the Charge of the Clothworker's Company." By John Tatham." 
 t Isaac Basire. See p. 342, and an account of him in Wood's " Athens." 
 
1662.] 355 
 
 20. Dined \v h the Comptroller Sir Hugh Pollard ; afterwards saw 
 " The Young Admiral"* acted before y e King. 
 
 21. Spent the evening at Court, S r Kenelm Digby giving me greate 
 thanks for my Sylva. 
 
 27. Went to London to see y e entrance of y c Russian Ambass r , 
 whom his Ma ty order'd to be received with much state, the Emperor 
 not only having ben kind to his Ma ty in his distress, but banishing all 
 commerce with our Nation during y e Rebellion. 
 
 First the Citty Companies and Train'd Bands were all in their sta- 
 tions : his Ma l >' s Army and Guards in greate order. His Excellency 
 came in a very rich coach, with some of his chiefe attendants ; many of 
 the rest on horseback, clad in their vests after y e Eastern manner, rich 
 furrs, caps, and carrying the presents, some carrying hawkes, furrs, 
 teeth, bows, &c. It was a very magnificent shew. 
 
 I din'd with the Master of the Mintf, where was old Sir Ralph 
 Freeman J; passing my evening at the Queene Mother's Court, at night 
 saw acted " The Committee," a ridiculous play of Sir R. Howard, 
 where y e mimic Lacy acted the Irish Footeman to admiration. 
 
 30. St. Andrewes day. Invited by y e Deane of Westminster § to 
 his consecration dinner and ceremony, on his being made Bishop of 
 Worcester. Dr. Bolton preach'd in y ( Abby Church, then follow'd the 
 consecration by the Bishops of London, Chichester, Winchester, Salis- 
 bury, &c. After this was one of the most plentifull and magnificent 
 dinners that in my life I ever saw ; it cost neere ^.600 as I was in- 
 form'd. Here were the Judges, Nobility, Clergy, and Gentlemen 
 innumerable, this Bishop being universally belov'd for his sweete and 
 gentle disposition. He was author of those Characters which go under 
 y e name of Blount||. He translated his late Ma l - S Icon into Latine, was 
 Clearke of his Closet, Chaplaine, Deane of Westm r , and yet a most 
 humble, meeke, but cheerfull man, an excellent scholar, and rare 
 preacher. I had the honour to be loved by him. He married me at 
 
 * A Tragi-Comedy by James Shirley. 
 
 f Mr. Slingsby. + Of Betchworth in Surrey. 
 
 § Dr. John Earle. Translated afterwards to Salisbury. 
 
 || These Characters were several times printed, and are still read with some interest. 
 
356 [166-2. 
 
 Paris, during his Majesties and y e Churches exile. When I tooke 
 leave of him he brought me to the Cloysters in his episcopal habit. I 
 then went to evening prayers at White-hall, where I pass'd that evening. 
 
 1 Dec. Having seene the strange and wonderful dexterity of the 
 sliders on the new Canal in St. James's Park, perform'd before their 
 Ma ti,s by divers gentlemen and others with Scheets after the manner of 
 the Hollanders, with what swiftness they passe, how suddainely they 
 stop in full carriere upon the ice, I went home by water, but not without 
 exceeding difficultie, the Thames being frozen, greate flakes of ice in- 
 compassing our boate. 
 
 IJ. I saw acted before y e King " The Law against Lovers." * 
 
 21 Dec. One of his Ma ty ' s Chaplains preach'd, after which, instead 
 of y e antient, grave, and solemn wind musiq accompanying y e organ, 
 was introduc'd a concert of 24 violins betweene every pause, after ye 
 French fantastical light way, better suiting a tavern or playhouse than 
 a church. This was y e first time of change, and now we no more heard 
 the cornet vv cl1 gave life to y e organ, that instrument quite left off in 
 which the English were so skillfull. I din'd at Mr. Povey's, where I 
 talk'd with Cromer, a greate musician. 
 
 23. I went with S r George Tuke to hear the Comedians con and 
 repeate his new comedy, e< The Adventures of 5 Hours," a play whose 
 plot was taken out of y e famous Spanish poet Calderon. 
 
 27. J visited Sir Theophilus Biddulph. 
 
 29. Saw the audience of the Muscovy Ambass r which was with 
 extraordinary state, his retinue being numerous, all clad in vests of 
 severall colours, with buskins after y e Eastern manner ; their caps of 
 furr ; tunicks richly embrodred with gold and pearls made a glorious 
 shew. The King being seated under a canopie in y e Banquetting- 
 house, the Secretary of y e Embassy went before y e Ambass r in a grave 
 march, holding up his master's letters of credence in a crimson taffeta 
 scarfe before his forehead. The Ambassador then deliver'd it with a 
 profound reverence to y e King, who gave it to our Secretary of State ; 
 
 * A Tragi-Comedy by Sir William Davenant, taken almost entirely from Shakespeare's " Mea- 
 sure for Measure/' and " Much Ado about Nothing," blended together. 
 
357 
 
 it was written in a long and lofty style. Then came in the present, 
 borne by 165 of his retinue, consisting of mantles and other large 
 pieces lined with sable, black fox and ermine ; Persian carpets, the 
 ground cloth of gold and velvet ; hawks, such as they sayd never came 
 the like ; horses said to be Persian ; bowes and arrows, &c. These 
 borne by so long a tralne rendered it very extraordinary. Wind musiq 
 play'd all the while in y e galleries above. This finish'd, y e Ambassador 
 was convey'd by y e Master of y e Ceremonies to York House, where he 
 was treated with a banquet w ch cost ^.200 as I was assur'd *. 
 
 1663. 7 Jan. At night I saw y e Ball, in which his Ma tv daunc'd with 
 several great ladys. 
 
 8. I went to see my kinsman Sir Geo. Tuke's comedy acted at y c 
 Duke's Theater, which took so universally that it was acted for some 
 weekes every day, and 'twas believ'd it would be worth to the Comedians 
 4 or ^.500. The plot was incomparable, but the language stifFe and 
 formal. 
 
 10. I saw a Ball againe at Court, daunc'd by the King, the Duke, 
 and Ladies in great pompe. 
 
 21. Dined at Mr. Treasurer's of the Household, S r Cha s Berkeley's, 
 where were the Earle of Oxford, L d Bellassis, L d Gerard, S r An- 
 drew Scroope, S r William Coventry, Dr. Fraser, Mr. Windham, and 
 others. 
 
 5 Feb. I saw "The Wild Gallant," a comedy f ; and was at y e 
 greate Ball at Court, where his Ma ,y , the Queene, &c. daunc'd. 
 
 * "The Czar of Muscovy sent an Embassr to compliment K. Cha. II. on his Restoration. The 
 K. sent the Earl of Carlisle as his Embass 1- to Moscow, to desire the re-establishment of the antient 
 privileges of the English Merchants at Archangel, wch had been taken away by the Czar, who 
 abhorring the murder of the K s father, accused them as favorers of it. But by the means of the 
 Czar's ministers, his lordship was very ill received, and met with what he deemed affronts, and had 
 no success as to his demands, so that at coining away he refused the presents sent him by the 
 Czar. The Czar sent an Ambass 1 " to England to complain of Lord Carlisle's conduct, but his 
 Lordship vindicated himself so well, that the King told the Embass r he saw no reason to condemn 
 his lordship's conduct." Relation of this Embassie by G. M. authenticated by Lord Carlisle, 
 printed 1669. 
 
 t By Mr. Dryden. It did not succeed on its first representation, but was considerably altered 
 to the form in which it now appears. 
 
358 
 
 [1663. 
 
 6. Dined at my Lord Maior's, S r Jo. Robinson, Lieutenant of the 
 Tower. 
 
 15. This night some villains brake into my house and study below, 
 and robbed me to y e value of ^.60 in plate, money, and goods. This 
 being the third time I have ben thus plundered. 
 
 26 Mar. I sat at y e Commission of Sewers, where was a greate case 
 pleaded by his Ma l >' s Counsel ; he having built a wall over- a water- 
 course, denied the jurisdiction of the Court. The verdict went for the 
 Plaintiff [i. e. against y e King]. 
 
 30 April. Came his Ma^ to honor my poore villa with his presence, 
 viewing the gardens and even every roome of the house, and was pleas'd 
 to take a small refreshment. There were with him the Duke of Rich- 
 mond, E. of St. Albans, Lord Lauderdale, and severy persons of quality. 
 
 14 May. Dined with my Lord Mordaunt, and thence went to 
 Barnes, to visite my excellent and ingenious friend Abraham Cowley. 
 
 17. I saluted the old Bishop of Durham, Dr. Cosin, to whom I 
 had ben kind and assisted in his exile, but which he little remember'd 
 in his greatnesse. 
 
 29. Dr. Creighton preach'd his extravagant Sermon at St. Marga- 
 ret's, before the House of Commons. 
 
 30. This morning was pass'd my Lease of Says Court from the 
 Crown, for y e finishing of which I had ben oblig'd to make such fre- 
 quent journies to London. I return'd this evening, having seene the 
 Russian Ambassador take leave of their Ma ties with greate solemnity. 
 
 2 July. I saw the greate masq at Court, and lay that night at 
 Arundel-house. 
 
 4. I saw his Ma ty ' s guards, being of horse and foote 4000, led bv 
 the General the Duke of Albemarle in extraordinary equipage and gal- 
 lantry, consisting of gentlemen of quality and veteran souldiers, excel- 
 lently clad, mounted and ordered, drawn up in battalia before their 
 Ma ties in Hide Park, where the old Earle of Cleveland trail'd a pike 
 and led the right-hand file in a foote company commanded by y e Lord 
 Wentworth his son, a worthy spectacle and example, being both of 
 them old and valiant souldiers. This was to shew y e French Ambass r , 
 Mons r Comminges ; there being a greate assembly of coaches, &c. in 
 y e park. 
 
359 
 
 7- Dined at the Comptroler's ; after dinner we met at the Commis- 
 sion about the streetes, and to regulate hackney coaches, also to make 
 up our accompts to passe the Exchequer. 
 
 16. A most extraordinary wet and cold season. 
 
 S r Geo. Carteret, Treasurer of the Navy, had now married his 
 daughter Caroline to S r Tho. Scot, of Scottshall, in Kent *, This gent: 
 was thought to be the sonn of Prince Rupert. 
 
 2 Aug. This evening I accompanied Mr. Treasurer and Vice Cham- 
 berlain Carteret to his lately-married son-in-law's, S' Tho. Scot, to 
 Scottshall. We tooke barge as far as Graves-end, thence by post to 
 Rochester, whence in coach and 6 horses to Scottshall ; a right noble 
 seate, uniformely built, with a handsome gallery. It stands in a park 
 well stor'd, the land fat and good. We were exceedingly feasted by 
 the young knight, and in his pretty chapell heard an excellent sermon 
 by his chaplaine. In the afternoone preach'd the learned S r Norton 
 Knatchbullf (who has a noble seate hard by, and a plantation of 
 stately fir-trees). In the church-yard of the parish church I measur'd 
 an over-grown yew-tree that was 18 of my paces in compasse, out of 
 some branches of which, tome off by y e winds, were saw'd divers 
 goodly planks. 
 
 10. We return'd by Sir Norton's, whose house is likewise in a 
 park. This gent" is a worthy person, and learned critic, especialy in 
 Greeek and Hebrew. Passing by Chatham we saw his Ma l > s Royal 
 Navy, and din'd at Commiss 1 " Pett's, master-builder there, who shewed 
 me his study and models, with other curiosities belonging to his art. 
 He is esteem'd for y c most skillfull ship-builder in the world. He hath 
 a pretty garden and banquetting-house, pots, statues, cypresses, re- 
 sembling some villas about Rome. After a greate feast we rod post to 
 Graves-end, and sending the coach to London, came by barge home 
 that night. 
 
 18. To London to see my Lo. Chancellor, where I had discourse 
 with my Lo. Archbp. of Canterbury and the Bishop of Winchester, 
 who injoyned me to write to Dr. Pierce, President of Magd. Coll. 
 
 * See Hasted's "Kent," vol. III. p. 293. 
 
 t Id. vol. II. p. 444. 
 
360 [1603- 
 
 Oxon. about a letter sent him by Dr. Goff, a Romish Oratorian, con- 
 cerning an answer to Dean Cressy's late book*. 
 
 20. I din'd at y e Comptroller's [of the Household] with y e Earle 
 of Oxford and Mr. Ashburnham ; it was said it should be the last of 
 the public diets or tables at Court, it being determined to put down 
 the old hospitality, at which was greate murmuring, considering his 
 Ma tys vast revenue and the plenty of y e Nation. Hence I went to sit 
 in a Committee to consider about the regulation of the Mint at the 
 Tower, in which some small progresse was made. 
 
 27 Aug. Din'd at S 1 ' Ph. Warwick's, Secretary to my Lo. Trea- 
 surer, who shew'd me the accompts and other private matters relating 
 to the revenue. Thence to the Commiss rs of the Mint, particularly 
 about coynage, and bringing his Ma tvs rate from 15 to 10 shillings for 
 every pound wejght of gold. 
 
 31. I was invited to the Translation of Dr. Sheldon, Bishop of 
 London, from that see to Canterbury, the ceremonie performed at 
 Lambeth. First went his grace's mace bearer, steward, treasurer, 
 comptroller, all in their gownes and with white staves ; next, the 
 Bishops in their habites, eight in number ; Dr. Sweate, Deane of the 
 Arches, Dr. Exton, Judge of y e Admiralty, S r W m Merick, Judge of 
 the Prerogative Court, with divers Advocates in scarlet. After divine 
 service in y e chapel, perform'd with musiq extraordinary, Dr. French 
 and Dr. Stradling (his grace's chaplaines) saied prayers. The Archb^ 
 in a private roome looking into y e Chapel, the Bishops who were Com- 
 missioners went up to a table plac'd before the altar, and sat round 
 it in chaires. Then Dr. Chaworth presented y e commission under the 
 broad seal to y e Bishop of Winchester, and it was read by Dr. Sweate. 
 After which the Vicar-general went to y e vestry, and brought his 
 Grace into y e Capell, his other officers marching before. He being 
 
 * Of Dr. Pierce, who was also Dean of Salisbury, Wood gives a very unfavourable account in 
 his "Fasti." He appears to have been engaged in disputes both in his College and at Salisbury. 
 Dean Cressy was bred in the Church of England, and was appointed Canon of Windsor and 
 Dean of Leighlin in Ireland, in the time of King Charles I. but, from the troubles of that time, 
 had no benefit from either; he afterwards became a Papist. The book here referred to is 
 " Exomologetis," or the motives of his conversion. Wood's Fasti. 
 
Ut6fr] 361 
 
 presented to die Commiss" was seated in a greate arm chaire at one 
 end of y e table, when the definitive sentence was read by the Bishop 
 of Winchester, and subscribed by all the Bishops, and proclamation 
 was three times made at the Chapell dore, which was then set open 
 for any to enter and give their exceptions, if any they had. This don, 
 we all went to dinner in y e greate hall to a mighty feast. There were 
 present all y e nobility in towne, y e Lord Maior of London, Sheriffs, 
 Duke of Albemarle, &c. My Lo. Archb'' did in particular most civily 
 welcome me. So going to visite my Lady Needham who liv'd at 
 Lambeth, I went over to London. 
 
 10 Sept. I din'd with Mr. Treasurer of y e Navy, where setting by 
 Mr. Secretary Morice, we had much discourse about bookes and 
 authors, he being a learned man, and had a good collection. 
 
 24 Oct. Mr. Edw d Phillips came to be my sonns preceptor : this 
 gentleman was nephew to Milton, who wrote against Salmasius's 
 " Defensio," but was not at all infected with his principles, tho' 
 brought up by him. 
 
 5 Nov. Dr. South, my L li Chancellor's Chaplain, preached at 
 Westminster Abby an excellent discourse concerning obedience to Ma- 
 gistrates, against the Pontifieians and Sectaries. I afterwards dined at 
 Sir Ph: Warwick's, where was much company. 
 
 6. To Court, to get Sir John Evelyn of Godstone off from being 
 Sheriff of Surrey*. 
 
 30. Was the first anniversary of our Society for the choice of new 
 officers, according to the tenor of our Patent and Institution. It being 
 St. Andrew's day, who was our patron, each fellow wore a St. An- 
 drew's Crosse of ribbon on the crowne of his hatt. After y e election 
 we din'd together, his Ma tv sending us venison. 
 
 16 Dec. To our Society where Mr. P. Balle, our treasurer at the 
 late election, presented the Society with an iron chest, with 3 locks, 
 and in it ^100. as a gift. 
 
 18. Dined with y e gentlemen of his Ma^ s bedchamber at White-hall. 
 
 * In which he succeeded. 
 VOL. J. 3 A 
 
362 
 
 [1664. 
 
 1664, 2 Jan. To Barne Elmes, to see Abraham Cowley after his 
 sicknesse ; and returned that evening to London. 
 
 4 Feb. Dined at S r Philip Warwick's ; thence to Court, where I 
 had discourse with the King about an invention of Glasse Granados, 
 and severall other subjects. 
 
 5. I saw "The Indian Queene"* acted, a tragedie well written, 
 so beautified with rich scenes as the like had never ben scene here, or 
 haply (except rarely) elsewhere on a mercenary theater. 
 
 16. I presented my "Sylva" to the Society; and next day to his 
 Majestie, to whom it was dedicated ; also to the Lord Treasurer, and 
 the Lord Chancellor. 
 
 24. My Lord Geo. Berkeley of Durdens, and S r Sam 1 Tuke, came 
 to visite me. We went on board S r William Petty's double bottom'd 
 vessell, and so to London. 
 
 26. Dined with my Lord Chancellor ; and thence to Court, where 
 I had greate thanks for my "Sylva," and long discourse with the King 
 of divers particulars. 
 
 2 March. Went to London, to distribute some of my books amongst 
 friends. 
 
 4. Came to dine with me the Earle of Lauderdale, his Majestie's 
 greate favorite, and Secretary of Scotland ; the E. of Tividale ; my L' 1 
 Vise 1 . Brouncker, Presid f . of the R. Society ; Dr. Wilkins, Deane of 
 Rippon ; Sir Rob* Morrey, and Mr. Hooke, Curator to y e Society. 
 
 This Spring 1 planted the Home-field and West-field about Says 
 Court with elmes, being the same yeare that the elmes were planted 
 by his Ma ty in Greene wich Park. 
 
 9. I went to the Tower, to sit in Commission about regulating the 
 Mint ; and now it was that the fine new mill'd coin both of white 
 money and guineas was establish'd. 
 
 26. It pleas'd God to take away my sonn Richard, being now a 
 moneth old, yet without any sicknesse of danger perceivably, being to 
 all appearance a most likely child ; we suspected much the nurse had 
 
 * Written by Sir Robert Howard and Mr. Dryden. 
 
10b'4.J 363 
 
 overlayne hi in : to our extreame sorrow, being now againe reduced to 
 one : but God's will be done ! 
 
 29. After evening prayers was my child buried neere the rest of his 
 brothers — my very deare Children. 
 
 2/ April. Saw a facetious Comedy called " Love in a Tub and 
 supped at Mr. Secretary Bennet's. 
 
 3 May. Came y e Earle of Kent my kindsman, and his Lady, to 
 visite us. 
 
 5. Went with some company a journey of pleasure on y c water in 
 barge with musick, and at Mortlack had a greate banquet, returning 
 late. The occasion was, S r Rob. Carr now courting Mrs. Bennet, 
 sister to y e Secretary of State. 
 
 6. Went to see Mr.Wrighte the painter's collection of rare shells, &c. 
 8 June. Went to our Society, to w h his Ma tie had sent that won- 
 
 derfull home of y e fish which struck a dangerous hole in y e keel of a 
 Ship in the India Sea, w h being broke off with the violence of y e fish 
 and left in y e timber, preserved it from foundering. 
 
 9. S r Samuel Tuke* being this morning married to a lady, kins- 
 woman to my Lord Arundel of Wardour, by y e Queenes Lord Almoner 
 L. Aubignie in St. James's Chapell, solemniz'd his wedding-night at 
 my house with much companie. 
 
 22. One Tomson a Jesuite shew'd me such a collection of rarities, 
 sent from y e Jesuites of Japan and China to their Order at Paris, as a 
 present to be reserv'd in their repository, but brought to London by 
 the East India ships for them, as in my life I had not seene. The 
 cheife things were, large rhinoceros's horns; glorious vests wrought and 
 embrodered on cloth of gold, but with such lively colours, that for 
 splendour and vividness we have nothing in Europe that approches it ; 
 a girdle studded with achats and rubies of greate value and size ; knives 
 of so keene an edge as one could not touch them, nor was the mettal 
 of our colour, but more pale and livid ; fanns like those our ladies use, 
 but much larger, and with long handles curiously carved and filled with 
 Chinese characters ; a sort of paper very broad, thin and fine like abor- 
 
 A Roman Catholic. 
 
364 
 
 [l6'6"4. 
 
 tive parchment and exquisitely polished, of an amber yellow, exceeding 
 glorious and pretty to looke on, and seeming to be like that which my 
 Lo. Verulame describes in his " Nova Atlantis ;" several other sorts of 
 paper, some written, others printed ; prints of landskips, their idols, 
 saints, pagods, of most ugly serpentine monstrous and hideous shapes, 
 to which they paid devotion ; pictures of men and countries rarely 
 painted on a sort of gum'd calico transparent as glasse ; flowers, trees, 
 beasts, birds, &c. excellently wrought in a kind of sieve silk very natu- 
 rall ; divers drougs that our drouggists and physitians could make no- 
 thing of, especialy one which the Jesuite call'd Lac Tygridis, it look'd 
 like a fungus, but was weighty like metall, yet was a concretion or 
 coagulation of some other matter ; several booke MSS.; a grammar of 
 y e language writen in Spanish ; with innumerable other rarities. 
 
 1 July. Went to see Mr. Povey's * elegant house in Lincoln's-inn- 
 fields, where the perspective in his court, painted by Streeter, is indeede 
 excellent, with y e vasas in imitation of porphyrie, and fountains ; the 
 inlaying of his closet ; above all, his pretty cellar and ranging of his 
 wine bottles. 
 
 7* To Court, where I subscribed to S r Arthur Slingsby's lottery, a 
 desperate debt owing me long since in Paris. 
 
 14. I went to take leave of y e two Mr. Howards, now going for 
 Paris, and brought them as far as Bromley ; thence to Eltham, to see 
 S r John Shaw's new house now building ; the place is pleasant if not 
 too wett, but the house not well contriv'd, especialy the roofe and 
 roomes too low pitch'd, and the kitchen where the cellars should be ; 
 the orangerie and aviarie handsome, & a verv large plantation about it. 
 
 19. To London to see the event of the lottery which his Ma'^ had 
 permitted S r Arthur Slingsby to set up for one day in the Banqueting 
 House at White-hall. 1 gaining only a trifle, as well as did the King, 
 Queene-consort and Queene-mother for neere 30 lotts ; which was 
 thought to be contrived very unhandsomely by the master of it, who 
 was, in truth, a meer shark. 
 
 * A Mr. Povey lived at Bellsize House in Hampstead in 1718, who was a coal merchant, though 
 not trained lo the business : he wrote many books, some discovering indirect practices in the coal 
 trade, in government offices, &c. (See under 1676, Feb.) Park's Hist, of Hampstead, p. 156. 
 
1664.] 365 
 
 21. I dined with my L. Treasurer at Southampton House, where his 
 Lordship used me with singular humanitie. 1 went in the afternooue 
 to Chelsey to waite on the Duke of Ormond, and returned to London. 
 
 28. Came to see me old Mons r Zulichem, Secretary to the Prince 
 of Orange, an excellent Latin poet, now neere 80 yeares of age, a rare 
 Lutinist, with Mons r Oudart. 
 
 3 Aug. To London ; a concert of excellent musitians, especialy one 
 Mr. Berkenshaw, that rare artist who invented a mathematical wav of 
 composure very extraordinary, true as to the exact rules of art, but 
 without much harmonie. 
 
 8. Came y e sad and unexpected newes of y c death of Lady Cotton, 
 wife to my brother George, a most excellent lady. 
 
 9. Went w h my brother Richard to Wotton, to visite & comforte my 
 disconsolate brother; and on the 13 th saw my friend Mr. Charles 
 Howard at Dipden neere Darking. 
 
 16. I went to see S r W m Ducie's house at Charleton, which he pur- 
 chas'd of my excellent friend S r Hen. Newton, now nobly furnish'd. 
 
 22. I went from London to Wotton to assist at the funerall of my 
 sister-in-law, the Lady Cotton, buried in our dormitorie there, she 
 being put up in lead. Dr. Owen made a profitable and pathetic dis- 
 course, concluding with an eulogie of that virtuous, pious, and deserving- 
 lady. It was a very solemn funerall, with about 50 mourners. 1 came 
 Wck next day w h my wife to London. 
 
 2 Sept. Came S r Constantine Hugens, Dr. Zulichem, S r Rorr. 
 Morris, Mr. Oudart, Mr. Carew, and other friends, to spend the 
 
 dav w b us. 
 
 j 
 
 5 Oct. To our Society. There was brought a new invented instru- 
 ment of musiq, being a harpsichord with gut strings, sounding like a 
 concert of viols with an organ, made vocal by a wheele, and a zone of 
 parchment that rubb'd horizontaly against the strings. 
 
 6. I heard the anniversary oration in praise of Dr. Harvey, in the 
 Anatomie Theater in the Coll. of Physitians, after which I was invited 
 by Dr. Alston the President to a magnificent feast. 
 
 /• I dined at S r Nich s Strood's, one of the Masters of Chancery, in 
 
366 
 
 [lo'u'4. 
 
 grcate S l Bartholomews ; passing y° evening at White-hall with the 
 Queene, &c. 
 
 8. S r William Curtius, his Ma tvs Resident in Germany, came to 
 visite me; he was a wise and learned gentleman, and, as he told me, 
 scholar to Henry Alstedius the Encyclopaedist. 
 
 15. Din'd at y e Lo. Chancellors, where was the Duke of Ormond. 
 Earle of Corke, & Bp. of Winchester. After dinner my Lord Chanc 1 
 and his lady carried me in their coach to see their palace* (for he now 
 liv'd at Worcester House in y e Strand) huilding at the upper end of St. 
 James's Streete, and to project the garden. In the evening I presented 
 him with my booke of Architecture, as before I had don to his Ma ty and 
 y e Queene Mother. His Lordship caus'd me to stay with him in his 
 bed-chamber, discoursing of severall matters very late, even til he was 
 going into his bed. 
 
 17. I went with my Lo. Visct. Cornebury to Cornebury in Oxford- 
 shire, to assist him in the planting of the park, and beare him company, 
 with Mr. Belin and Mr. May, in a coach with 6 horses ; din'd at 
 Uxbridge, lay at Wicckam (Wycombe). 
 
 18. At Oxford. Went thro' Woodstock, where we beheld the 
 destruction of that royal seate and park by y e late rebels, and ariv'd 
 that evening at Cornebury, an house lately built by the Earle of Den- 
 bigh in y e middle of a sweete park, wall'd with a dry wall. The 
 house is of excellent freestone abounding in that part, a stone that is 
 fine, but never sweats or casts any damp ; 'tis of ample dimensions, has 
 goodly cellars, the paving of y c hall admirable for its close laying. We 
 design'd an handsom chapell that was yet wanting : as Mr. May had 
 the stables, which indeed are very faire, having set out the walkes in 
 the park and gardens. The lodge is a prety solitude, and the ponds 
 very convenient ; the parke well stor'd. 
 
 20. Hence we went to see y e famous wells, natural and artificial 
 
 * There is a large View of it engraved. The Chancellor in the Continuation of his Life laments 
 having built it, on account of the great cost, and the unpopularity which its magnificence 
 reated. He had little enjoyment of it, as will be seen hereafter. 
 
1664.] 367 
 
 grotts and fountains, call'd Bushells Wells at Enstone *. This Bushel! 
 had ben secretary to my Lo. Verulam. It is an extraordinary solitude. 
 There he had two mummies ; a grott where he lay in a hammock like 
 an Indian. Hence we went to Dichley, an ancient seate of the Lees, 
 now S r Hen. Lee's : it is a low ancient timber-house, with a pretty 
 bowling greene. My Lady gave us an extraordinary dinner. This 
 gentleman's mother was Countesse of Rochester, who was also there, 
 and Sir Walter Saint John. There were some pictures of their ancestors 
 not ill painted ; the great grand-father had ben Kn f of y e Garter : there 
 was the picture of a Pope and our Saviour's head. So we return'd 
 to Cornbury. 
 
 24. We din'd at S r Tim. Tyrill's at Shotover. This gent n married 
 the daughter and heyre of Dr. James Usher, Abp. of Armagh, that 
 learned Prelate. There is here in y e grove a fountaine of y e coldest 
 water I ever felt, and very cleere. His plantation of oakes, &c. is very 
 commendable. We went in y c evening to Oxford, lay at Dr. Hide's, 
 Principal of Magdalen Hall, (related to the Lo. Chancellor) brother to 
 y c Lord Ch. Justice and that S r Hen. Hide who lost his head for his 
 loyalty. We were handsomly entertain'd two dayes. The Vice Chan- 
 cellor, who with Dr. Fell, Deanc of Christ Church, the learned Dr. 
 Barlow, Warden of Queenes, and severall heads of houses, came to 
 visite Lord Cornebury (his father being now Chancellor of the Uni- 
 versity), and next day invited us all to dinner. I went to visite Mr. 
 Boyle (now here), whom I found with Dr. Wallis and Dr. Ch r Wren 
 in the Tower of the Scholes, with an inverted tube or telescope, 
 observing the discus of y e Sunn for y e passing of Mercury that day be- 
 fore it, but the latitude was so great that nothing appeared ; so we went 
 to see y e rarities in y e Library, where the keepers shewed me my name 
 among y e benefactors. They have a cabinet of some medails, and 
 pictures of y e muscular parts of man's body. Thence to the new 
 Theater, now building at an exceeding and royal expence by the Lo. 
 
 * Bushell published a pamphlet respecting his contrivances here ; and in Plott's Oxfordshire is 
 an engraving of the rock, the fountains, &c. belonging to it. See an account of him in the 
 History of Surrey, vol. III. p, 523, and Appendix cxlix. 
 
368 
 
 [l 66*4 
 
 Abp. of Canterbury [Sheldon], to keepe the Aets in for the future, 
 till now being in St. Mary's church. The foundation had ben newly 
 laied and the whole design'd by that incomparable genius my worthy 
 friend Dr. Chr r Wren, who shewed me the model, not disdaining my 
 advice in some particulars. Thence to see y L picture on y e wall over y e 
 Altar at All Soules, being the largest piece of fresco painting (or rather 
 in imitation of it, for it is in oil of turpentine) in England, not ill 
 design'd by the hand of one Fuller; yet I feare it will not hold long. 
 It seems too full of nakeds for a chapell. 
 
 Thence to New College, and the painting of Magdalen Chapel, 
 which is on blew cloth in cliiaro oscuro, by one Greenborow, being a 
 Ccena Domini, and a Last Judgment on the Avail by Fuller, as is 
 the other, but somewhat varied. 
 
 Next to Wadham, and the Physick Garden, where were two large 
 locust trees, and as many platana, and some rare plants under y e culture 
 of old Bobart*. 
 
 26. We came back to Beaconsfield; next day to London, where we 
 dined at the L d Chancellor's w h my Lord Bellasis. 
 
 2J. Being casually in the privy gallery at White-hall, his Ma ty 
 gave me thanks before divers lords and noblemen for my book of Archi- 
 tecture, and againe for my " Sylva," saying they were the best de- 
 sign'd and usefull for y c matter and subject, y e best printed and de- 
 sign'd (meaning y e taille douces of y e Parallel of Architecture) that he 
 had scene. He then caus'd me to follow him alone to one of y e win- 
 dows, and ask'd me if I had any paper about me unwritten, and a 
 crayon ; I presented him with both, and then laying it on y e window- 
 stool, he with his own hands design'd to me the plot for the future 
 building of White-hall, together with the roomes of state, and other 
 
 * Jacob Bobart, a German, was appointed the first keeper of the Physic Garden at Oxford. There 
 is a fine print of him after Loggan by Burghers, dated 1675. Also a small whole length in the 
 frontispiece of Vertumnus, a poem on that garden. In this he is dressed in a long vest, with a 
 beard. One of this family was bred up at College in Oxford, but quitted his studies for the pro- 
 fession of the whip, driving one of the Oxford coaches (his own property) for many years with 
 great credit. In 1813 he broke his leg by an accident ; and in 1814, from the respect he had 
 acquired by his good conduct, he was appointed by the University to the place of one of the 
 liscjuire Beadles. 
 
16"64-] 
 
 369 
 
 particulars. After this he talk'd with me of several matters, and asking 
 my advice of many particulars, in w ch I find his Ma'y had an extraordi- 
 nary talent becoming a magnificent prince. 
 
 The same day at Council, there being Commissioners to be made to 
 take care of such Sick and Wounded and Prisoners of war as might be 
 expected upon occasion of a succeeding war and action at sea, war 
 being already declar'd against y e Hollanders, his Ma tv was pleas'd to no- 
 minate me to be one, with three other gentlemen, Parliament men, viz. 
 S r W m Doily Knt. and Bart. S r Tho. Clifford* and Bullein Rheymes 
 Esq.; with a salary ^.1200 a year amongst us, besides extraordinaries 
 for our care and attention in time of station, each of us being appointed 
 to a particular district, mine falling out to be Kent and Sussex, with 
 power to constitute officers, physitians, chirurgeons, provost marshals, 
 and to dispose of halfe of the hospitals thro' England. After v e Council 
 we kiss'd his Ma^' s hand. At this Council I heard Mr. Solicitor 
 Finch -j- plead most elegantly for the Merchants trading to the Canaries, 
 praying for a new Charter. 
 
 29. Was y e most magnificent triumph by water and land of y e Lord 
 Maior]J\ I din'd at Guild-hall at y e upper table, plac'd next to S r H. 
 Bennett, Secretary of State, opposite to my Lo. Chancellor and the 
 Duke of Buckingham who sate betweene Mons r Comminges the French 
 Ambass r , Lord Treasurer, the Dukes of Ormond and Albemarle, Earl 
 of Manchester Lord Chamberlaine, and the rest of y e great Officers of 
 State. My Lord Maior came twice up to us, first drinking in the 
 golden goblett his Ma^' s health, then the French King's as a compli- 
 ment to the Ambass r ; then we return'd my Lo. Maior's health, the 
 trumpets and drums sounding. The cheere was not to be imagined for 
 the plenty and raritie, with an infinite number of persons at the rest of 
 the tables in that ample hall. The feast was said to cost ,^.1000. I 
 slipt away in y e crowd, and came home late. 
 
 31. I was this day 44 yeares of age, for which I returned thanks to 
 Almighty God, begging his mercyfull protection for the yeare to come. 
 
 * Since Lord Treasurer of England. f Afterwards Earl of Nottingham, Lord Chancellor, 
 
 f Sir John Lawrence. The pageant for the day was called " London's Triumph, prepared at 
 
 the cost of the Haberdashers Company, and written by John Tatham, Gent." 
 
 VOL. I. 3 B 
 
370 
 
 [1664. 
 
 2 Nov. Her Ma^ the Queene Mother came crosse the gallerie in 
 White-hall to give me thanks for my book of Architecture which I had 
 presented to her, with a compliment that I did by no means deserve. 
 
 16. We chose our Treasurer, Clearks, and Messengers, and ap- 
 pointed our seal w ch I order'd should be the good Samaritan, with 
 this motto, Fac similiter. Painters Hall was lent us to meete in. In 
 the greate roome were divers pictures, some reasonably good, that had 
 ben given to the Company by several of y e Wardens and Masters of the 
 Company. 
 
 23. Our Statutes now finished, were read before a full assembly of 
 the Royall Society. 
 
 24. His Ma ty was pleas'd to tell me what the conference was with 
 the Holland Ambassador, which, as after I found, was the heads of 
 the speech he made at the re-convention of the Parliam 1 , which now 
 began. 
 
 2 Dec. We deliver'd the Privy Council's letters to the Gov rs of St. 
 Thomas's Hospital in Southwark, that a moiety of the house should 
 be reserv'd for such sick and wounded as should from time to time be 
 sent from the Fleete during the war. This being deliver'd at their 
 Court, the President and several Aldermen, Governors of that Hospital, 
 invited us to a greate feaste in Fishmongers Hall. 
 
 20. To London our last sitting, taking order for our personal vi- 
 siting our severall districts. I dined at Capt. Cock's (our Treasurer}, 
 w h that most ingenious gent. Matthew Wren, sonn to the Bp. of Ely, 
 and Mr. Joseph Williamson, since Secretary of State. 
 
 22. 1 went to y e launching of a new ship of two bottomes, invented 
 by S r W m Petty, on which were various opinions ; his Ma tv being pre- 
 sent gave her the name of The Experiment : so I returned home, where 
 I found Sir Humphry Winch, who spent the day with me. 
 
 This yeare I planted the lower grove next the pond at Says Court. 
 It was now exceeding cold and a hard long frosty season, and the Comet 
 was very visible. 
 
 28. Some of my poore neighbours dined with me, and others of my 
 tennants, according to my annual costome. 
 
1665.] 
 
 371 
 
 31. Set my affaires in order, gave God praise for his mercvs the 
 past yeare, and prepared for the reception of the Holy Sacrament, 
 which I partook of the next day after hearing our Minister on the 4th 
 Galatians 4. 5. of the Mysterie of our Blessed Saviours Incarnation. 
 
 1665. 2 Jan. This day was publish'd by me that part of* "The 
 Mysterie of Jesuitism" translated and collected by me, tho' without mv 
 name, containing the Imaginarie Heresy, with 4 letters and other pieces. 
 
 4. I went in a coach, it being excessive sharp frost and snow, to- 
 wards Dover and other parts of Kent, to settle physitians, chirurgeons, 
 agents, marshals, and other officers in all the Sea Ports, to take care of 
 
 * In a letter to Lord Cornbury 2 Jan. 1664, Mr. Evelyn says, "I came to present y<" Lordship 
 with yr owne booke [in the margin is written, ' The other part of the Mystery of Jesuitism trans- 
 lated and publish'd by me'] : I left it with my Lord y r father, because 1 would not suffer it to be 
 publiq till he had first seene it, who, on y r Lps score, has so just a title to it. The particulars 
 w ch you will find added after the 4 ,h letter are extracted out of severall curious papers and pas- 
 sages lying by me, which for being very apposite to y e controversy, I thought fit to annex, in 
 danger otherwise to have never ben produced." — In another letter to Lord Cornbury, 9 Feb. 
 1664, Mr. Evelyn says he undertook the Translation by command of his Lordship and of his father 
 the Lord Chancellor (see vol. II. p. 142. ) 
 
 The Authors of the " Biographia Britannica" speak of "The Mystery of Jesuitisme" as one 
 volume; but in the library at Wotton there are three, in duodecimo, with the following titles and 
 contents : the second in order is that translated by Mr. Evelyn. 
 
 1. Les Provinciales, or, the Mystery of Jesuitisme, discovered in certain Letters written upon 
 occasion of the present difference at Sorbonne between the Jansenists and the Molinists, displaying: 
 the pernicious Maxims of the late Casuists. The second edition corrected, with large additionals. 
 Sicut Serpentes. London : Printed for Richard Royston, and are to be sold by Robert Clavell at 
 the Stag's Head near St. Gregorie's Church in St. Paul's Churchyard, 1658. — pp. 360. Additionals, 
 pp. 147- At the end are the names of some of the most eminent Casuists. 
 
 2. Mvr»j£»ov rrij 'Avojoua;. That is, Another Part of the Mystery of Jesuitism ; or the new Heresie 
 of the Jesuites, publickly maintained at Paris, in the College of Clermont, the xii of December 
 MDCLXI. declared to all the Bishops of France. According to the copy printed at Paris. Toge- 
 ther with the Imaginary Heresie, in three Letters, with divers other particulars relating to the 
 abominable Mysterie. Never before published in English. London : Printed by James Flesher, 
 for Richard Royston, bookseller to his most sacred Majesty, 1664. — 3 letters, pp. 206. Copy of 
 a Letter from the rev<l Father Valerian, a Capuchin, to Pope Alex r 7th, pp. 207 — 239. The sense 
 of the French Church, pp. 240 — 254. 
 
 3. The Moral Practice of the Jesuits demonstrated by many remarkable histories of their actions 
 in all parts of the world. Collected either from books of the greatest authority, or most certain 
 and unquestionable records and memorials. By the Doctors of the Sorbonne. Faithfully trans- 
 lated into English (by Dr. Tongue; see hereafter, under 1678, Oct. I.) London: Printed for 
 Simon Miller at the Star at the West end of St. Paul's, 1670. 
 
372 [1665- 
 
 such as should be set on shore, wounded, sick, or prisoners, in pur- 
 suance of our Commission reaching from the North Foreland in Kent 
 to Portsmouth in Hampshire. The rest of y e Ports in England were 
 allotted to y e other Commiss rs . That evening I came to Rochester, 
 where I deliver'd the Privy Council's letter to the Maior to receive or- 
 ders from me. 
 
 5. I ariv'd at Canterbury, and went to the Cathedral, exceedingly 
 well repair'd since his Ma l > s returne. 
 
 6. To Dover, where Col. Stroode Lieut 1 of the Castle, having re- 
 ceiv'd the letter I brought him from the Duke of Albemarle, made me 
 lodge in it, and I was splendidly treated, assisting me from place to 
 place. Here I settled my first Deputy. The Maior and Officers of the 
 Costomes were very civil to me. — 9. To Deal. — 10. To Sandwich, a 
 pretty towne, about 2 miles from the sea. The Maior and Officers of 
 the Costomes were very diligent to serve me. I visited the Forts in y e 
 way, and return'd that night to Canterbury. 
 
 11. To Rochester, when I tooke order to settle officers at Chatham. 
 — 12. To Gravesend, and return'd home. A cold, busy, but not un- 
 pleasant journey. 
 
 25. This night being at White-hall, his Ma 1 * came to me standing 
 in the withdrawing roome, and gave me thanks for publishing " The 
 Mysterie of Jesuitism," which he said he had carried two days in his 
 pocket, read it, and encourag'd me ; at which I did not a little wonder ; 
 I suppose S r Rob* Morray had given it to him. 
 
 27. Dined at the Lord Chancellor's, who caus'd me after dinner to 
 sit 2 or 3 houres alone with him in his bed-chamber. 
 
 2 Feb. I saw a masq perform'd at Court by 6 gentlemen and 6 
 ladys, surprizing his Ma**, it being Candlemas-day. 
 
 8. Ash-Wednesday. 1 visited our prisoners at Chelsey Colledge, 
 and to examine how the Martial and Suttlers behav'd. These were 
 prisoners taken in the warr ; they only complain'd that their bread was 
 too fine. I dined at S r Henry Herbert's, Master of the Revells. 
 
 9. Din'd at my Lo. Treasurers the Earle of Southampton, in 
 Blomesbury, where he was building a noble Square or Piazza*, a little 
 
 * The Italians do not mean what we do by Piazza ; they only mean a Square. 
 
1665.'] 373 
 
 Towne ; his owne house stands too low, some noble roomes, a pretty 
 cedar chapell, a naked garden to the North, but good aire*. 1 had 
 much discourse with his Lordship, whom I found to be a person of ex- 
 traordinary parts, but valetudinarie. — I went to St. James's Parke, 
 where I saw various animals, and examined the throate of y e Onocra- 
 tylus or Pelican, a fowle betweene a Stork and a Swan ; a melancholy 
 water-fowl brought from Astracan by the Russian Ambassador, it was 
 diverting to see how he would toss up and turn a flat fish, plaice or 
 flounder, to get it right into its gullet at its lower beak, w ch being 
 filmy, stretches to a prodigious wideness when it devours a great fish. 
 Here was also a small water-fowl not bigger than a more-hen, that went 
 almost quite erect like the penguin of America ; it would eate as much 
 fish as its whole body weigh'd, I never saw so unsatiable a devourer, 
 yet y e body did not appear to swell the bigger. The Solan geese here 
 also are greate devourers, and are said soon to exhaust all y e fish in a 
 pond. Here was a curious sort of poultry not much exceeding the size 
 of a tame pidgeon, with legs so short as their crops seem'd to touch y e 
 earth ; a milk-white raven ; a stork which was a rarity at this season, 
 seeing he was loose and could flie loftily ; two Balearian cranes, one of 
 which having had one of his leggs broken and cut off above the knee, 
 had a wooden or boxen leg and thigh, with a joynt so accurately made 
 that y e creature could walke and use it as well as if it had ben natural ; 
 it was made by a souldier. The Parke was at this time stored with 
 numerous flocks of severall sorts of ordinary and extraordinary wild 
 fowle, breeding about the Decoy, which for being neere so greate a 
 Citty, and among such a concourse of souldiers and people, is a singular 
 and diverting thing. There were also deere of severall countries, 
 white ; spotted like leopards ; antelopes ; an elk ; red deere ; roebucks ; 
 staggs ; Guinea goates ; Arabian sheepe, &c. There were withy-potts 
 or nests for the wild fowle to lay their eggs in, a little above y e surface 
 of y e water. 
 
 * Afterwards it was called Bedford House, being the town residence for many years of the 
 Russell family, but was pulled down in 1800, and on the site and the adjoining fields were erected 
 many handsome houses, now called Russell Square, Bedford Place, Russell Place, &c. 
 
374 [1665. 
 
 23. I was invited to a greate feast at Mr. Rich's (a relation of 
 my wife's, now Reader at Lincoln's Inn); where was the Duke of 
 Monmouth, the Archbishop of Canterbury, Bishops of London and 
 Winchester, the Speaker of the House of Commons, divers of the 
 Judges, and severall other greate men. 
 
 24. Dr. Fell, Canon of Christ Church, preach'd before the King on 
 15 Romans 2, a very formal discourse, and in blank verse, according to 
 his manner ; however he is a good man. — Mr. Philips, preceptor to my 
 sonn, went to be with the Earle of Pembroke's sonn, my Lord Herbert. 
 
 2 March. I went with his Ma ty into the lobbie behind the House of 
 Lords, where I saw the King and rest of the Lords robe themselves, 
 and got into the Lords House in a corner neere the woolsack on w ch 
 the Lord Chancellor sits next below the Throne ; the King sate in all 
 the regalia, the crown imperial on his head, the scepter and globe, &c. 
 The D. of Albemarle bare the sword, the D. of Ormond the cap of 
 dignity. The rest of the Lords robed and in their places : — a most 
 splendid and august convention. Then came the Speaker and the 
 House of Commons, and at the barr made a speech, and afterwards 
 presented severall bills, a nod onely passing them, the Cleark saying 
 Z,e Roy le veult ; as to public bills; as to private, Soit faite comme il 
 est desire. Then his Ma ty made a handsome but short speech, com- 
 manding my Lo. Privy Seale to prorogue the Parliam 1 , which he did, 
 the Chancellor being ill and absent. I had not before seene this 
 ceremony. 
 
 9. I went to receive the poore creatures that were saved out of the 
 London fregat, blowne up by accident with above 200 men. 
 
 29 Mar. Went to Goring House*, now Mr. Secretary Bennett's, 
 ill built, but the place capable of being made a pretty villa. His Ma ty 
 was now finishing the Decoy in the Parke. 
 
 2 April. Took order about some prisoners sent from Capt. Allen's 
 ship, taken in the Solomon, viz. the brave man who defended her so 
 gallantly. 
 
 * On the site whereof Arlington Street is now built. There is a small print of this house 
 
1665.'] 375 
 
 5. Was a day of public humiliation and for successe of this terrible 
 warr, begun doubtlesse at secret instigation of the French to weaken 
 the States and Protestant interest. Prodigious preparations on both sides. 
 
 6. In the afternoone I saw acted " Mustapha," a tragedy written 
 by y° Earle of Orrery. 
 
 11. To London, being now left the onely Commiss 1- to take all 
 necessary orders how to exchange, remove, and keepe prisoners, dis- 
 pose of hospitalls, &c. the rest of the Commiss" being gone to their 
 severall districts, in expectation of a suddaine engagement. 
 
 19. Invited to a greate dinner at the Trinity House, where I had 
 businesse with the Commiss rs of the Navy, and to receive the second 
 ,385,000. imprest for the service of the sick and wounded prisoners. 
 
 20. To White-hall to y e King, who called me into his bed chamber 
 as he was dressing, to whom I shew'd the letter written to me from 
 the Duke of York from the fleete, giving me notice of Young Evertson, 
 and some other considerable commanders newly taken in fight with y e 
 Dartmouth and Diamond frigats*, whom he had sent me as prisoners at 
 war ; I went to know of his Ma tv how he would have me treate them, 
 
 * In the publication of the Life of King James II. from his own papers (printed 1816), after 
 describing the engagement with the Dutch fleet in 1665, he says, " Soon after this three Dutch men 
 of war, which had been seen for some time to the windward of us, and were looking out for their 
 own fleet, bore down in order to join it. One of them was a great ship of above SO guns, which 
 for want of some repairs had been left by Cornelius Evertson to his son, with orders to follow ; 
 the other two were not of the same force. These being to windward, endeavoured to join the head 
 of their fleet, and young Evertson being a mettled man, and having a mind to distinguish himself, 
 resolved to run on board of the Plimouth, hoping to bear her down ; but Sir Tho. Allen, perceiv- 
 ing by Evertson's working what his design was, brought his ship to at once, so that Evertson 
 miss'd his aim, tho' he came so near it that the yard-arms of both ships touch'd, and they gave 
 each other a severe broadside in passing ; after which Evertson and the other two made a shift to 
 join their own fleet, and Sir Tho. Allen continued leading as before, till finding himself extreamly 
 disabled, he was forced to ly by." P. 410 — " After this engagement was over, and the Dutch had 
 retired to their own ports, the Duke of York had brought back the English fleet to the Nore, he 
 took care to have his Scouts abroad, two of which, the Diamond Capt. Golding, and the Yarmouth 
 Capt. Ayliffe, being sent to observe the motions of the Dutch, they happened to meet with two of 
 the Direction Ships (as the Dutch call them) of 40 od guns each ; the biggest was commanded by 
 one Masters, the other by young Cornelius Evertson, who, tho' ours were of somewhat better 
 force, did not avoid engaging. At the first broadside Golding was slain ; but his Lieut. Davis 
 managed the fight so well, as did the Capt. of the Yarmouth, that after some hours dispute, both 
 the Dutch ships were taken, tho' bravely defended, for they lost many men and were very much 
 
376 [1665- 
 
 when he commanded me to bring the young Captain to him, and to 
 take the word of the Dutch Ambass r (who yet remained here) for the 
 other, that he should render himself to me whenever I called on him, 
 and not stir without leave. Upon w ch I desir'd more guards, the prison 
 being Chelsey House. I went also to Lord Arlington (the Secretary 
 Bennett lately made a Lord) about other businesse. Dined at my 
 Lord Chancellor's, none with him but S r Sackville Crowe, formerly 
 Ambass r at Constantinople ; we were very chearfull and merry. 
 
 24. I presented young Capt. Evertson (eldest son of Cornelius, Vice 
 Admiral of Zealand, and nephew of John, now Admiral, a most valiant 
 person) to his Ma ty in his bed chamber ; the King gave him his hand 
 to kisse, and restored him his liberty ; ask'd many questions concerning 
 the fight (it being y e first bloud drawne), his Ma ty remembering the 
 many civilities he had formerly receiv'd from his relations abroad, who 
 had now so much interest in that considerable Province. Then I was 
 commanded to go with him to the Holland Ambass r , where he was to 
 stay for his passport, and I was to give him 50 pieces in broad gold. 
 Next day 1 had the Ambass ri parole for y e other Captain, taken in Capt. 
 Allen's fight before Cales. I gave the King an account of what I had 
 don, and afterwards ask'd y e same favour for another Captain, which 
 his Ma ty gave me. 
 
 28 April. I went to Tunbridge, to see a solemn exercise at the free 
 schoole there*. 
 
 Having taken orders with my martial about my prisoners, and with 
 the doctor and chirurgeon to attend the wounded enemies, and of our 
 
 disabled before they struck. The Duke gave young Evertson his liberty f, in consideration of his 
 father Cornelius, who had performed severall services for the K. before his Restoration ; and his 
 R. H. freed also the other Captain for having defended himself so well, and made Lieut. Davis 
 Capt. of one of those prizes." P. 419. 
 
 * There is an annual visitation by the Skinners Company of London, who are the patrons, at 
 which verses, themes, &c. are spoken before them by the senior scholars. The Rev. Vicesimus 
 Knox (D. D. by an American University), author of many works, some of which have gone through 
 many editions, was master from about 1779 to 1812, when he resigned in favour of his son the 
 Rev. Thomas Knox. 
 
 + i. e. lie recommended it to the King to do so, for we see he was sent to London and presented to the King 
 by Mr. Evelyn. 
 
166 5-] 377 
 
 ovvne men, I went to London again and visited my charge, several! 
 with legs and arms off; miserable objects God knows! 
 
 16 May. To London to consider of the poore orphans and widows 
 made by this bloudy beginning, and whose husbands and relations pe- 
 rished in the London fregat, or which there were 50 widows and 45 
 of them with child. 
 
 26. To treat with y e Holland Ambass 1 at Chelsey for release of 
 divers prisoners of warr in Holland on exchange here. After dinner 
 being call'd into the Council Chamber at White-hall, I gave his Ma tv 
 an account of what I had don, informing him of y e vast charge upon 
 us, now amounting to no less than ^".lOOO weekely. 
 
 29. I went with my little boy to visite my district in Kent, to make 
 up accompts with my officers. Visited the Governor at Dover Castle, 
 where were some of my prisoners. 
 
 3 June. In my return went to Graves-end; the Fleets being just 
 now engaged, gave special orders for my officers to be ready to receive 
 the wounded and prisoners. 
 
 5. To London, to speak with his Ma^ and the Duke of Albemarle 
 for horse and foote guards for the prisoners at warr, committed more 
 particularly to my charge by a Commission apart, 
 
 8. I went againe to his Grace, thence to the Council, and mov'd for 
 another privy seale for .s^.20,000, and that I might have the disposal 
 of y e Savoy Hospital for the sick and wounded, all which was granted. 
 Hence to y e Royal Society to refreshe among y e Philosophers. 
 
 Came newes of his Highness's victory, which indeede might have 
 ben a compleate one, and at once ended y e warr, had it ben pursued, 
 but the cowardice of some, or treachery, or both, frustrated that. We 
 had however bonfires, bells and rejoicing in the Citty. Next day the 
 9th I had instant orders to repaire to the Downes, so as I got to Ro- 
 chester this evening. Next day I lay at Deale, where I found all in 
 readinesse ; but the Fleete being hindred by contrary winds I came away 
 on the 12th and went to Dover, and returned to Deale ; and on the 
 13th hearing the Fleete was at Solebay, I went homeward, and lay at 
 Chatham, and the 14th I got home. On the 15th came the eldest son 
 of the present Secretary of State to the French King, with much other 
 
 VOL. I. 3 c 
 
378 
 
 [1665 
 
 companie, to dine with me. After dinner I went with him to London, 
 to speake to my Lord Gen 1 for more guards, and gave his Ma tv an ac- 
 count of my journey to the Coasts under my inspection. I also waited 
 on his R: Highnesse, now come triumphant from the Fleete, gotten in to 
 repaire. See the whole history of this conflict in my History of y e 
 Dutch Warr. 
 
 20. To London, and represented the state of the sick and wounded 
 to his Ma ty in Council, for want of mony; he order'd I should apply to 
 my Lo. Treass r and Chancellor of the Exchequer, upon what funds to 
 raise the mony promised. We also presented to his Ma ty divers expe- 
 dients for retrenchment of y e charge. 
 
 This evening making my court to the Duke, I spake to Mons r Co- 
 minges the French Ambass r , and his Highness granted me six pri- 
 soners, Emdeners, who were desirous to go to the Barbados with a 
 merchant. 
 
 22. We waited on the Chanc r of the Excheq r , and got an order of 
 Council for our mony to be paid to the Treasurer of the Navy for our 
 Receivers. 
 
 23. I din'd with S r Rob 1 Paston since Earle of Yarmouth, and saw 
 the Duke of Verneuille base brother to the Q. Mother, a handsom old 
 man, a greate hunter. 
 
 The Duke of Yorke told us that when they were in fight, his dog 
 sought out absolutely y e very securest place in all y e vessell. — In the 
 afternoone I saw the pompous reception and audience of El Conde de 
 Molino, the Spanish Ambass r , in the Banquetting-house, both their 
 Ma ties sitting together under the canopy of state. 
 
 30. To Chatham ; and 1 July, to the Fleete with Lord Sandwieh, 
 now Admiral, with whom I went in a pinnace to the Buoy of the Nore, 
 where the whole Fleete rod at anker; went on board the Prince of 90 
 brasse ordnance, happly the best ship in the world both for building 
 and sailing; she had fOO men. They made a greate huzza or shout at 
 our approch 3 times. Here we dined with many noblemen, gentlemen 
 and volunteers, served in plate and excellent meate of all sorts. After 
 dinner came his Majestie, the Duke, and Prince Rupert. Here I saw 
 the King knight Capt. Custance for behaving so bravely in the late 
 
1665.] 
 
 379 
 
 fight. It was surprizing to behold the good order, decency, and plenty 
 of all things in a vessell so full ot men. The ship received an hundred 
 cannon shot in her body. Then I went on board the Charles, to which, 
 after a gun was shot off, came all the Flag-officers to his Ma l >, who 
 there held a Generall Council, w <h determin'd that his R. Highnesse 
 should adventure himself no more this Summer. I came away late, 
 having seene the most glorious Fleete that ever spread sailes. We 
 returned in his Ma'!'' 8 yatch with my Lo. SatKhvich and Mr. Vice- 
 Chamberlaine, landing at Chatham on Sunday morning. 
 
 5 July. I tooke order for 150 men who had ben recovered of their 
 wounds, to be carried on-board the Clove Tree, Carolus Quintus, and 
 Zeland, ships that had ben taken by us in the fight ; and so re- 
 turn'd home. 
 
 7« To London, to S r W m Coventrie; and so to Sion, where his Ma tv 
 sat at Council during the contagion ; when buisines was over, I viewed 
 that seate belonging to y e Earle of Northumberland, built out of an 
 old Nunnerie, of stone, and faire enough, but more celebrated for the 
 garden than it deserves ; yet there is excellent wall-fruit, and a pretty 
 fountaine ; nothing else extraordinarie. 
 
 9. I went to Hampton Court, where now the whole Court was, 
 to solicite for mony ; to carry intercepted letters; confer again with 
 S r W' n Coventrie, the Duke's secretary ; and so home, having din'd 
 with Mr. Secretary Morice. 
 
 16 July. There died of the plague in London this weeke 1100, 
 and in the weeke following above 2000. 2 houses were shut up in 
 our parish. 
 
 2 Aug. A solemn fast thro' England to deprecate God's displeasure 
 against the land by pestilence and war; our D r . preaching on 26 Levit: 
 41, 42. that the meanes to obtaine remission of punishment was not to 
 repine at it, but humbly to submit to it. 
 
 3. Came his Grace the Duke of Albemarle, L. Generall of all his 
 Majesties Forces, to visite me, and carried me to dine with him. 
 
 4. I went to Wotton to carry my sonn and his tutor Mr. Bohun, 
 Fellow of New Coll. (recommended to me by Dr. Wilkins and the 
 Pres 1 of New Coll. Oxf d ), for feare of the pestilence, still increasing in 
 
380 
 
 London and its environs. On my returne I call'd at Durdans, where I 
 found Dr. Wilkins, S r W m Petty, and Mr. Hooke, contriving chariots, 
 new rigging for ships, a wheele for one to run races in, and other 
 mechanical inventions; perhaps three such persons together were not 
 to be found elsewhere in Europe, for parts and ingenuity. 
 
 8. I waited on the D. of Albemarle, who was resolved to stay at 
 the Cock-pit in St. James's Parke. Died this week in London 4000. 
 
 15. There perished this week 5000. 
 
 28. The contagion still increasing and growing now all about us, 
 I sent my wife and whole family (two or three necessary servants 
 excepted) to my brother's at Wotton, being resolved to stay at my 
 house myselfe and to looke after my charge, trusting in the providence 
 and goodnesse of God. 
 
 5 Sept. To Chatham to inspect my charge, with 900/. in my coach. 
 
 7. Came home, there perishing neere 10,000 poore creatures weekly; 
 however I went all along the Citty and suburbs from Kent Streete to 
 St. James's, a dismal passage, and dangerous to see so many coffines 
 expos'd in the streetes, now thin of people; the shops shut up, and all 
 in mourneful silence, as not knowing whose turn might be next. I 
 went to y e Duke of Albemarle for a pest ship, to wait on our infected 
 men, who were not a few. 
 
 14. I went to Wotton ; and on 16 Sept. to visite old Secretary 
 Nicholas, being now at his new purchase of West Horsley, once mort- 
 gag'd to me by Lord Vise Montagu: a pretty drie seate on y e Downe. 
 Return'd to Wotton. 
 
 17. Receiving a letter from Lord Sandwich of a defeate given to y c 
 Dutch, I was fore'd to travell all Sunday. I was exceedingly perplex'd 
 to find that neere 3000 prisoners were sent to me to dispose of, being 
 more than I had places fit to receive and guard. 
 
 25. My Lord Adm 1 being come from y e fleete to Greene wich, I 
 went thence with him to y e Cock-pit to consult with the Duke of 
 Albemarle. I was peremptory that unlesse we had 10,000/. imme- 
 diately, the prisoners would starve, and 'twas propos'd it should be 
 rais'd out of the E. India prizes now taken by Lord Sandwich. They 
 being but two of y e Commission, and so not impower'd to determine, 
 
l66 5.] 
 
 381 
 
 sent an expresse to his Ma tv and Council to know what they should do. 
 In the meane time I had 5 vessells with competent guards to keepe the 
 prisoners in for y e present, to be placed as I should think best. After 
 dinner (w ch was at the Gen ls ) I went over to visite his Grace the 
 A. Bishop of Canterbury at Lambeth. 
 
 28. To the Generall againe, to acquaint him of y e deplorable state 
 of our men for want of provisions ; return'd with orders. 
 
 29. To Erith to quicken y e sale of y e prizes lying there, with order 
 to y e Commiss 1 who lay on board till they should be dispos'd of, 5000/. 
 being proportion'd for my quarter. Then I deliver'd y e Dutch Vice 
 Adm 1 , who was my prisoner, to Mr. Lo.* of y e Marshalsea, he giving 
 me bond in 500/. to produce him at my call. I exceedingly pittied 
 this brave unhappy person, who had lost with these prizes 40,000/. 
 after 20 yeares negotiation [trading] in y e East Indies. I din'd in one 
 of these vessells, of 1200 tonns, full of riches. 
 
 1 October. This afternoone, whilst at evening prayers, tidings were 
 brought me of the birth of a daughter at Wotton, after six sonns, in 
 the same chamber I had first tooke breath in, and at the first day of that 
 moneth, as I was on the last, 45 yeares before. — 4. The monthly fast. 
 
 11. To London, and went thro' y e whole Citty, having occasion to 
 alight out of the coach in several 1 places about buisinesse of mony, when 
 I was environ'd with multitudes of poore pestiferous creatures begging 
 almes ; the shops universaly shut up, a dreadful prospect ! I din'd 
 with my Lo. General; was to receive 10,000/. and had guards to 
 convey both myselfe and it, and so returned home, thro' God's in- 
 finite mercy. 
 
 17. I went to Gravesend, next day to Chatham, thence to Maid- 
 stone, in order to y e march of 500 prisoners to Leeds Castle, which I 
 had hired of Lord Culpeper. I was earnestly desir'd by the learned 
 Sir Roger Twisden and Deputy Lieutenants to spare Maidstone from 
 quartering any of my sick flock. Here S r Edw. Brett sent me some 
 horse to bring up y e reare. This country from Rochester to Maidstone 
 by the Medway and the Downs is very agreeable for the prospect. 
 
 * Mr. Lowman. 
 
382 
 
 [1665- 
 
 21. I came from Gravesend, where Sir Jo. Griffith, the Governor 
 of the Fort, entertain'd me very handsomely. 
 
 31. I was this day 45 yeares of age, wonderfully preserved, for 
 which I blessed God for his infinite goodness towards me. 
 
 23 Nov. Went home, the contagion having now decreas'd considerably. 
 
 27. The Duke of Albemarle was going to Oxford, where both 
 Court and Parliament had ben most part of y e summer. There was no 
 small suspicion of mv Lord Sandwich having permitted divers com- 
 manders who were at y e taking of y (> East India prizes, to break bulk 
 and take to themselves jewels, silkes, &c. : tho' I believe some whom I 
 could name fill'd their pockets, my Lo. Sandwich himselfe had the 
 least share. However he underwent the blame, and it created him 
 enemies, and prepossess'd y e Lo. Gen 11 , for he spake to me of it with 
 much zeale and concerne, and I believe laid load enough on Lo. Sand- 
 wich at Oxford. 
 
 8 Dec. To my Lo. of Albemarle (now return'd from Oxon), who 
 was declar'd Generall at Sea, to y c no small mortification of that excel- 
 lent person the Earle of Sandwich, whom y e Duke of Albemarle not 
 onely suspected faulty about y e prizes, but less valiant ; himselfe ima- 
 gining how easie a thing it were to confound the Hollanders, as well 
 now as heretofore he fought against them upon a more disloyal interest. 
 
 25. Kept Christmas with my hospitable brother at Wotton. 
 
 30. To Woodcott, when I supp'd at my Lady Mordaunt's at 
 Ashted, where was a roome hung with Pintado, full of figures greate 
 and small, prettily representing sundry trades and occupations of y e 
 Indians, with their habits ; here supp'd also Dr. Duke, a learned and 
 facetious gentleman. 
 
 31. Now blessed be God for his extraordinary mercies and pre- 
 servation of me this yeare, when thousands and ten thousands perish'd 
 and were swept away on each side of me, there dying in our parish this 
 yeare 406 of y c pestilence ! 
 
 1666*. 3 Jan. I supp'd in None such House*, whither the office of 
 
 * There is a small print of it in Speed's Map of Surrey, but a larger one by Hoefnagle in a 
 Collection of Views, some in England, but chiefly abroad. Mr. Lysons has copied this in his 
 " Environs of London," edit. 1796, vol. I. p. 153. 
 
1666.] 
 
 383 
 
 the Exchequer was transferred during the plague, at my good friend's 
 Mr. Packer's, and tooke an exact view of y e plaster statues and bass 
 relievos inserted 'twixt the timbers and punchions of the outside walles 
 of the Court ; which must needs have ben the work of some celebrated 
 Italian. I much admir'd how it had lasted so well and intire since the 
 time of Hen. VIII. expos'd as they are to the aire; and pitty it is they 
 are not taken out and preserv'd in some drie place; a gallerie would 
 become them. There are some mezzo-relievos as big as the life, the 
 storie is of y e Heathen Gods, emblems, compartments, &c. The Pa- 
 lace consists of two courts, of which the first is of stone, castle-like, 
 by y e Lo. Lumlies (of whom 'twas purchas'd), y e other of timber, a 
 Gotiq fabric, but these walls incomparably beautified. I observ'd that 
 the appearing timber punchions, entrelices, &c. were all so cover'd with 
 scales of slate, that it seem'd carv'd in the wood and painted, y e slate 
 fastened on the timber in pretty figures, that has, like a coate of 
 armour, preserv'd it from rotting. There stand in the garden two 
 handsome stone pyramids, and the avenue planted with rows of faire 
 elmes, but the rest of these goodly trees, both of this and of Worcester 
 Park adjoyning, were fell'd by those destructive and avaricious rebells 
 in the late warr, w cb defac'd one of the stateliest seates his Ma'- had. 
 
 12. After much, and indeede extraordinary mirth and cheere, all 
 my brothers, our wives, and children being together, and after much 
 sorrow and trouble during this Contagion, which seperated our families 
 as well as others, I return'd to my house, but my wife went back to 
 Wotton, I not as yet willing to adventure her, the Contagion, tho' 
 exceedingly abated, not as yet wholy extinguished amongst us. 
 
 29. I went to waite on his Ma tv , now return'd from Oxford to 
 Hampton Court, where the Duke of Albemarle presented me to him ; 
 he ran towards me, and in a most gracious manner gave me his hand to 
 kisse, with many thanks for my care and faithfulnesse in his service in 
 a time of such greate danger, when every body fled their employments ; 
 he told me he was much oblig'd to me, and said he was severall times 
 eoncern'd for me, and the peril I underwent, and did receive my service 
 most acceptably (tho' in truth I did but do my duty, and O that I had 
 perform'd it as I ought !) After this his Ma ty was pleas'd to talke with 
 
384 [1666. 
 
 me alone, neere an houre, of severall particulars of my employment, 
 and order'd me to attend him againe on the Thursday following at 
 Whitehall. Then the Duke came towards me, and embrac'd me with 
 much kindnesse, telling me if he had thought my danger would have 
 ben so greate, he would not have suffer'd his Ma^ to employ me in 
 that station. Then came to salute me my Lo. of St. Albans, Lord 
 Arlington, Sir W m . Coventrie, and severall greate persons ; after which 
 I got home, not being very well in health. 
 
 The Court was now in deepe mourning for the French Queene 
 Mother. 
 
 2 Feb. To London, his Ma tv now come to White-hall, where I 
 heard and saw my Lo. Maior (and breathren) make his speech of well- 
 come, and the two Sheriffs were knighted. 
 
 6. My wife and family return'd to me from the country, where 
 they had ben since August, by reason of the contagion, now almost 
 universally ceasing. Blessed be God for his infinite mercy in preserv- 
 ing us ! I having gone thro' so much danger, and lost so many of my 
 poore officers, escaping still myselfe, that I might live to recount and 
 magnifie his goodnesse to me. 
 
 8. I had another gracious reception by his Ma^ who call'd me into 
 his bed-chamber, to lay before and describe to him my project of an 
 Infirmarie, w th I read to him, who with greate approbation, recom- 
 mended it to his R. Highnesse. 
 
 20 Feb. To y e Commiss" of the Navy, who having seene the project 
 of the Infirmary, encourag'd the work, and were very earnest it should 
 be set about immediately ; but I saw no mony, tho' a very moderate 
 expense would have saved thousands to his Ma ,y , and ben much more 
 commodious for the cure and quartering our sick and wounded, than 
 the dispersing them into private houses, where many more chirurgeons 
 and attendants were necessary, and y e people tempted to debaucherie. 
 
 21. Went to my Lo. Treas ,s for an assignm* of ^.40,000 upon y e 
 two last quarters for support of the next yeares charge. Next day to 
 Duke of Albemarle and Secretary of State, to desire them to propose it 
 to y e Council. 
 
 1 Mar. To London and presented his Ma^ my book intituled 
 
385 
 
 "The pernicious Consequences of the new Heresy of the Jesuits against 
 Kings and States."* 
 
 7- Dr. Sandcroft, since Abp. of Canterbury, preached before the 
 King about the identity and immutability of God, on 102 Psalm 2/. 
 
 13. To Chatham, to view a place design'd for an Infirmarie. 
 
 15. My charge now amounted to neere ^.7000 [weekly.] 
 
 22. The Royal Society re-assembled after the dispersion from the 
 contagion. 
 
 24. Sent ^.2000 to Chatham. 
 
 1 Aprill. To London, to consult about ordering the natural rarities 
 belonging to y e repositorie of the Royall Society ; referred to a Com- 
 mittee. 
 
 10. Visited S r W" 1 D'Oylie, surprized with a fit of apoplexie, and 
 in extreame danger. 
 
 11. Dr. Bathurst preached before the King, from *f I say unto you 
 all, watch" — a seasonable and most excellent discourse. When his 
 Ma tv came from dispell, he call'd to me in the Lobby, and told me he 
 must now have me sworn for a Justice of Peace (having long since 
 made me of the Commission), w ch I declin'd as inconsistent with the 
 other service I was engag'd in, and humbly desired to be excused. 
 After dinner, waiting on him, I gave him the first notice of the Spa- 
 niards referring the umpirage of the Peace 'twixt them and Portugal to 
 the French King, which came to me in a letter from France before y e 
 Secretaries of State had any newes of it. After this his Majestie againe 
 asked me if 1 had found out any able person about our parts that might 
 supply my place of Justice of Peace (the office in the world I had most 
 industriously avoided, in reguard of the perpetual trouble thereofF in 
 these numerous parishes), on w h 1 nominated one, whom the King 
 commanded me to give immediate notice of to my L d Chancellor, and 
 I should be excus'd ; for which I rendered his Ma tie many thanks. — 
 From thence I went to the R 1 Society, where I was chosen by 27 voices 
 to be one of their Council for y e ensuing yeare ; but upon my earnest 
 
 vol. 1. 
 
 * See before, p. 371. 
 3 D 
 
386 
 
 [1666. 
 
 suite, in respect of my other affaires, I got to be excused ; — and so 
 home. 
 
 15. Our parish was now more infected with the plague than ever, 
 and so was all the countrie about, tho' almost quite ceas'd at London. 
 
 24. To London about our Mint Commission, and sat in the inner 
 Court of Wards. 
 
 8 May. To Queenboro', where finding the Richmond Fregate, I 
 sail'd to the Buoy of the Nore to my Lo. Gen 1 , and Prince Rupert, 
 where was the rendezvous of the most glorious Fleet in the world, now 
 preparing to meete y e Hollander. — Went to visite my Co. Hales at a 
 sweetly-water'd place at Chilston neere Bockton. The next morning 
 to Leedes Castle, once a famous hold, now hired by me of my Lord 
 Culpeper for a prison. Here I flowed the drie moate, made a new 
 drawbridge, brought spring water into the court of y e castle to an old 
 fountaine, and tooke order for y e repaires. 
 
 22: Waited on my Lo. Chancellor at his new palace; and Lord 
 Berkeley's built next to it. 
 
 24. Dined with Lord Cornbury, now made L. Chamberlaine to the 
 Queene ; who kept a very honorable table. 
 
 1 June. Being in my garden at 6 o'clock in the evening, and hear- 
 ing y e greate gunns go thick off, I tooke horse, and rod that night to 
 Rochester ; thence next day towards y e Downes and sea-coast, but 
 meeting y e Lieut 1 of the Hampshire Fregat, who told me what pass'd, 
 or rather what had not pass'd, I return'd to London, there being no 
 noise or appearance at Deale, or on that coast, of any engagement. 
 Recounting this to his Ma tv , whom I found at St. James's Park, im- 
 patiently expecting, and knowing that Prince Rupert was loose about 
 3 at St. Helen's Point at N. of the Isle of Wight, it greately rejoic'd 
 him ; but he was astonish'd when I assur'd him they heard nothing of 
 the guns in y° Downs, nor did the Lieutenant, who landed there by 5 
 that morning. 
 
 3 June. Whitsunday. After sermon came newes that the Duke of 
 Albemarle was still in fight, and had ben all Saturday, and that Capt. 
 Harman's ship (the Henrie) was like to be burnt. Then a letter from 
 Mr. Bertie that Pr. Rupert was come up with his squadron (according 
 
1666.] 
 
 387 
 
 to my former advice of his being loose and in the way), and put new 
 courage into our Fleete, now in a manner yielding ground, so that 
 now we were chasing the chasers ; that the Duke of Albemarle was 
 slightly wounded, and y° rest still in greate danger. So having ben 
 much wearied with my journey, I slipp'd home, the gunns still roaring 
 very fiercely. 
 
 5. I went this morning to London, where came severall particulars 
 of the fight. 
 
 6. Came S r Dan. Harvey from the Gen", and related the dreadfull 
 encounter, on which his Ma ty commanded me to dispatch an extraordi- 
 nary physitian and more chirurgeons. 'Twas on the solemn fast day 
 when y e newes came ; his Ma^ being in the Chapell, made a suddaine 
 stop to heare the relation, which being with much advantage on oui 
 side, his Ma tv commanded that publiq thanks should immediately be 
 given as for a victory. The Deane of the Chapell going down to give 
 notice of it to the other Deane officiating ; and notice was likewise sent 
 to St. Paul's and Westminster Abby. But this was no sooner over, 
 than newes came that our losse was very greate both in ships and men ; 
 that the Prince fregat was burnt, and as noble a vessell of 90 brass guns 
 lost, and y e taking of S r Geo. Ayscue, and exceeding shattering of both 
 Fleetes, so as both being obstinate, both parted rather for want of am- 
 munition and tackle than courage, our Gen 11 retreating like a lyon ; 
 which exceedingly abated of our former joy. There was however 
 order given for bonfires and bells ; but God knows it was rather a deli- 
 verance than a triumph. So much it pleas'd God to humble our late 
 over-confidence that nothing could withstand y u Duke of Albemarle, 
 who in good truth made too forward a reckoning of his successe now, 
 because he had once beaten the Dutch in another quarrell, and being 
 ambitious to outdo the Earle of Sandwich, whom he had prejudicated 
 as deficient in courage. 
 
 7. I sent more chirurgeons, linnen, medicaments, &c. to the seve- 
 rall ports in my district. 
 
 8. Dined with me Sir Alex r Fraser, prime physitian to his Ma tie ; 
 afterwards went on board his Ma^' s pleasure-boate, when I saw the 
 London Frigate launch'd, a most stately ship, built by y e Citty to 
 
388 
 
 [1666. 
 
 supply that which was burnt by accident some time since. The King, 
 Lord Maior and Sheriffs, being there with a greate banquet. 
 
 11. Trinity Monday, after a sermon, applied to the re-meeting of 
 the Corporation of the Trinity House after the late raging and wasting 
 pestilence : I dined with them in their new roome in Deptford, the first 
 time since it was rebuilt. 
 
 15. I went to Chatham. — 16. In the Jemmy Yatcht (an incom- 
 parable sailer) to sea, ariv'd by noone at the Fleete at the Buoy of the 
 Nore, din'd with Prince Rupert and the Generall. 
 
 l^. Came his Ma ty , the Duke, and many Noblemen. After Council 
 we went to prayers. My business being dispatch'd, I return'd to Chat- 
 ham, having layne but one night in the Royal Charles ; we had a tem- 
 pestuous sea. I went on shore at Sheerness, where they were building 
 an arsenal for the Fleete, and designing a royal fort with a receptacle 
 for greate ships to ride at anker ; but here I beheld y e sad spectacle, 
 more than halfe that gallant bulwark of the kingdom miserably shat- 
 ter'd, hardly a vessell intire, but appearing rather so many wrecks and 
 hulls, so cruely had the Dutch mangl'd us. The losse of y e Prince, 
 that gallant vessell, had ben a loss to be universally deplor'd, none 
 knowing for what reason we first engag'd in this ungratefull warr; we 
 lost besides 9 or 10 more, and neere 600 men slaine and 1100 wounded, 
 2000 prisoners ; to ballance which perhaps we might destroy 18 or 20 
 of the enemies ships, and 7 or 800 poore men. 
 
 18. Weary of this sad sight I return'd home. 
 
 2 July. Came S r Jo. Duncomb* and Mr. Tho s Chichley, both Privy 
 Councillors and Commiss rs of his Ma^' s Ordnance, to visite me and let 
 me know that his Ma 1 ' had in Council nominated me to be one of the 
 Commiss rs for regulating y e farming and making of Saltpetre thro' the 
 whole kingdom, and that we were to sit in y e Tower the next day. 
 When they were gone, came to see me Sir Jo. Cotton, heir to the 
 
 * "Duncomb was a judicious man, but very haughty, and apt to raise enemies against himself. 
 He was an able Parliament man, but could not go into all the designs of the Court, for he had a 
 sense of religion, and a ieal for the liberty of his country," Bp. Burnet's Hist of his Own Times, 
 folio, vol. I. p. 265. 
 
1666.'] 389 
 
 famous Antiquary Sir Rob 1 Cotton : a pretended greate Grecian, but 
 had by no meanes the parts or genius of his grandfather. 
 
 3. I went to sit with y e Commiss' 8 at the Tower, where our Com- 
 mission being read, we made some progresse in businesse, our Secre- 
 tary being Sir Geo. Wharton, that famous mathematician who writ y e 
 yearly Almanac during his Ma^' s troubles. Thence to Painters Hall, 
 to our other Commission, and dined at my Lo. Maior's. 
 
 4. The solemn Fast Day. D r Megot preach'd an excellent dis- 
 course before the King on the terrors of God's judgements. After ser- 
 mon I waited on my L d Abp. of Canterbury and Bp. of Winchester, 
 where the Deane of Westm r spake to me about putting into my hands 
 the disposal of ^8.50 which the charitable people at Oxford had sent to 
 be distributed among the sick and wounded seamen since y e battaile. 
 Hence I went to y e Lord Chancellor's, to joy him of his Royal High- 
 nesses second sonne now born at St. James's, and to desire y e use of y e 
 Star Chamber for our Commiss rs to meete in, Painters Hall not being so 
 convenient. 
 
 12 July. We sat y e first time in y e Star Chamber. There was now 
 added to our Commission Sir Geo. Downing (one that had ben a great 
 . . . against his Ma ty but now insinuated into his favour, and from a 
 pedagogue and fanatic preacher not worth a groate had become exces- 
 sive rich) to inspect the hospitals and treate about prisons. 
 
 14. Sat at the Tower with Sir J. Duncomb and Lo. Berkeley to 
 signe deputations for undertakers to furnish their proportions of saltpetre. 
 
 17. To London to prepare for y e next engagement of y e Fleetes, 
 now gotten to sea againe. 
 
 22. Our parish still infected with the contagion. 
 
 25. The Fleetes engag'd. I dined at L' 1 Berkeley's at St. James's, 
 where din'd my Lady Harrietta Hyde, L d Arlington, 6c S p John 
 Duncomb. 
 
 29. The pestilence now afresh increasing in our parish, I forbore 
 going to church. In the afternoone came tidings of our victorie over the 
 Dutch, sinking some and driving others aground and into their ports. 
 
 1 Aug. I went to Dr. Keflfler, who married y e daughter of y e famous 
 chymist Drebbell, inventor of y e boedied scarlet. I went to see his 
 
390 
 
 [1666. 
 
 yron ovens, made portable (formerly) for the Pr. of Orange's army . 
 supp'd at the Rhenish Wine House with divers Scots gentlemen. 
 
 6. Dined with Mr. Povey, and then went with him to see a coun- 
 try-house he had bought neere Brainford ; returning by Kensington, 
 which house stands to a very graceful avenue of trees, but 'tis an ordi- 
 nary building, especialy one part. 
 
 8. Dined at S r Stephen Fox's with severall friends, and on the 10th 
 with Mr. Odart, Secretary of the Latine tongue. 
 
 17. Din'd with the Lo. Chancellor, whom I entreated to visite the 
 Hospital of the Savoy, and reduce it (after y e greate abuse that had ben 
 continu'd) to its original institution for y c benefit of the poore, which 
 he promis'd to do. 
 
 25. Waited on S r W' n D'Oylie, now recover'd as it were miracu- 
 lously. In the afternoone visited the Savoy Hospital ; where I staied 
 to see the miserably dismember'd and wounded men dressed, and gave 
 some necessary orders. Then to my Lo. Chancellor, who had, with 
 the Bishop of London and others in the Commission, chosen me one 
 of the three Surveyors of the repaires of Paules, and to consider of a 
 model for the new building, or, if it might be, repairing of the steeple, 
 which was most decay'd. 
 
 26 Aug. The Contagion still continuing, we had the Church service 
 at home. 
 
 27. I went to St. Paule's Church, where with Dr. Wren, Mr. 
 Prat, Mr. May, Mr. Tho s Chichley, Mr. Slingsby, the Bishop of 
 London, the Deane* of St. Paule's, and several expert workmen, we 
 went about to survey the generall decays of that ancient and venerable 
 church, and to set downe in writing the particulars of what was fit to 
 be don, with the charge thereof, giving our opinion from article to 
 article. Finding the maine building to recede outwards, it was the 
 opinion of Mr. Chichley and Mr. Prat that it had ben so built ab 
 origine for an effect in perspective, m r. % guard of the height ; but I 
 was, with Dr. Wren, quite of another judgment, and so we entered it; 
 we plumb'd the uprights in severall places. When we came to the stee- 
 
 * Dr. Sancroft, afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury. 
 
1666.2 
 
 391 
 
 pie, it was deliberated whether it were not well enough to repaire it 
 onely on its old foundation, with reservation to the 4 pillars ; this Mr. 
 Chichley and Mr. Prat were also for, but we totaly rejected it, and per- 
 sisted that it requir'd a new foundation, not onely in reguard of the ne- 
 cessitie, but for that the shape of what stood was very meane, and we 
 had a mind to build it with a noble cupola, a forme of church-building 
 not as yet known in England, but of wonderfull grace : for this purpose 
 we offer'd to bring in a plan and estimate, which, after much contest, 
 was at last assented to, and that we should nominate a Committee of 
 able workemen to examine the present foundation. This concluded, we 
 drew all up in writing, and so went with my Lord Bishop to the Deanes. 
 
 28. Sate at the Star Chamber. Next day to the R 1 . Society, where 
 one Mercator, an excellent mathematician, produced his rare clock & 
 new motion to performe the equations, and M r Rooke his new pendulum. 
 
 2 Sept. This fatal night about ten, began the deplorable fire neere 
 Fish Streete in London. 
 
 3. I had public prayers at home. The fire continuing, after dinner 
 I took coach with my wife and sonn and went to the Bank side in South- 
 wark, where we beheld that dismal spectacle, the whole Citty in dread- 
 full flames neare the water side ; all the houses from the Bridge, all 
 Thames Street, and upwards towards Cheapeside, downe to the Three 
 Cranes, were now consum'd : and so returned exceeding astonished what 
 would become of the rest. 
 
 The fire having continu'd all this night (if I may call that night 
 which was light as day for 10 miles round about, after a dreadfull man- 
 ner) when conspiring with a fierce Eastern wind in a very drie season ; 
 I went on foote to the same place, and saw y e whole South part of y e 
 Citty burning from Cheapeside to y e Thames, and all along Cornehill 
 (for it likewise kindl'd back against y e wind as well as forward), Tower 
 Streete, Fen-church Streete, Gracious Streete, and so along to Bai- 
 nard's Castle, and was now taking hold of St. Paule's Church, to which 
 the scaffolds contributed exceedingly. The conflagration was so uni- 
 versal, and the people so astonish'd, that from the beginning, I know 
 not by what despondency or fate, they hardly stirr'd to quench it, so 
 that there was nothing heard or seene but crying out and lamentation, 
 
392 
 
 [1616. 
 
 running about like distracted creatures, without at all attempting to save 
 even their goods ; such a strange consternation there was upon them, so 
 as it burned both in breadth and length, the Churches, Publiq Halls, 
 Exchange, Hospitals, Monuments, and ornaments, leaping after a 
 prodigious manner from house to house and streete to streete, at greate 
 distances one from y e other ; for ye heate with a long set of faire and 
 warme weather had even ignited the aire and prepar'd the materials to 
 conceive the fire, which devour'd after an incredible manner houses, 
 furniture, and every thing. Here we saw the Thames cover'd with 
 goods floating, all the barges and boates laden with what some had time 
 and courage to save, as, on y c other, y e carts, &c. carrying out to the 
 fields, which for many miles were strew'd with moveables of all sorts, 
 and tents erecting to shelter both people and what goods they could get 
 away. Oh the miserable and calamitous spectacle ! such as happly the 
 world had not seene the like since the foundation of it, nor be outdon 
 till the universal conflagration of it. All the skie was of a fiery aspect, 
 like the top of a burning oven, and the light seene above 40 miles round 
 about for many nights. God grant mine eyes may never behold the 
 like, who now saw above 10,000 houses all in one flame ; the noise and 
 cracking and thunder of the impetuous flames, y e shreiking of women 
 and children, the hurry of people, the fall of Towers, Houses and 
 Churches, was like an hideous storme, and the aire all about so hot and 
 inflam'd that at the last one was not able to approch it, so that they 
 were forc'd to stand still and let y e flames burn on, which they did for 
 neere two miles in length and one in bredth. The clowds also of 
 smoke were dismall and reach'd upon computation neer 50 miles in 
 length. Thus I left it this afternoone burning, a resemblance of Sodom, 
 or the last day. It forcibly call'd to my mind that passage — non enim 
 hie habemus stabilern civitatem: the ruines resembling the picture of 
 Troy. London was, but is no more ! Thus I returned. 
 
 Sept. 4. The burning still rages, and it was now gotten as far as the 
 Inner Temple ; all Fleet Streete, the Old Bailey, Ludgate Hill, War- 
 wick Lane, Newgate, Paules Chaine, Watling Streete, now flaming, 
 and most of it redue'd to ashes ; the stones of Paules flew like granados, 
 y e mealting lead running downe the streetes in a streame, and the very 
 
1666.] 
 
 393 
 
 pavements glowing with fiery rednesse, so as no horse nor man was 
 able to tread on them, and the demolition had stopp'd all the passages, 
 so that no help could be applied. The Eastern wind still more impe- 
 tuously driving the flames forward. Nothing but y e Almighty power 
 of God was able to stop them, for vaine was y e help of man. 
 
 5. It crossed towards White-hall ; but oh, the confusion there was 
 then at that Court ! It pleas'd his Ma'-' to command me among y e rest 
 to looke after the quenching of Fetter Lane end, to preserve if possible 
 that part of Holborn, whilst the rest of y e gentlemen tooke their several 
 posts, some at one part, some at another (for now they began to bestir 
 themselves, and not till now, who hitherto had stood as men intoxicated, 
 with their hands acrosse) and began to consider that nothing was likely 
 to put a stop but the blowing up of so many houses as might make a 
 wider gap than any had yet ben made by the ordinary method of pulling 
 them downe with engines ; this some stout seamen propos'd early 
 enough to have sav'd neere y e whole Cittv, but this some tenacious and 
 avaritious men, aldermen, &c. would not permitt, because their houses 
 must have ben of the first. It was therefore now commanded to be 
 practic'd, and my concerne being particularly for the Hospital of St. 
 Bartholomew neere Smithfield, where I had many wounded and sick 
 men, made me the more diligent to promote it ; nor was my care for 
 the Savoy lesse. It now pleas'd God by abating the wind, and by the 
 industrie of y c people, when almost all was lost, infusing a new spirit 
 into them, that the furie of it began sensibly to abate about noone, so 
 as it came no farther than y e Temple Westward, nor than y e entrance of 
 Smithfield North : but continu'd all this day and night so impetuous 
 toward Cripple-gate and the Tower as made us all despaire ; it also 
 brake out againe in the Temple, but the courage of the multitude per- 
 sisting, and many houses being blown up, such gaps and desolations 
 were soone made, as with the former three days consumption, the back 
 fire did not so vehemently urge upon the rest as formerly. There was 
 yet no standing neere the burning and glowing mines by neere a fur- 
 longs space. 
 
 The coale and wood wharfes and magazines of oyle, rosin, &c. did 
 infinite mischeife, so as the invective which a little before I had dedi- 
 vol. i. 3 E 
 
394 [i666. 
 
 cated to his Ma tv and publish'd*, giving warning what might probably 
 be the issue of suffering those shops to be in the Citty, was look'd on as 
 a prophecy. 
 
 The poore inhabitants were dispers'd about St. George's Fields, and 
 Moorefields, as far as Highgate, and severall miles in circle, some under 
 tents, some under miserable hutts and hovells, many without a rag or 
 any necessary utensills, bed or board, who from delicatenesse, riches,, 
 and easy accomodations in stately and well furnish'd houses, were now 
 reduc'd to extreamest misery and poverty. 
 
 In this calamitous condition I return'd with a sad heart to my house, 
 blessing and adoring the distinguishing mercy of God to me and mine, 
 who in the midst of all this ruine was like Lot, in my little Zoar, safe 
 and sound. 
 
 Sept. 6, Thursday. I represented to his Ma tv the case of the French 
 prisoners at war in my custodie, and besought him that there might be 
 still the same care of watching at all places contiguous to unseised 
 houses. It is not indeede imaginable how extraordinary the vigilance 
 and activity of the King and the Duke was, even labouring in person, 
 and being present to command, order, reward, or encourage workmen, 
 by which he shewed his affection to his people and gained theirs. 
 Having then dispos'd of some under cure at the Savoy, I return'd to 
 White-hall, where I din'd at Mr. Offley's f , the groome porter, who 
 was my relation. 
 
 7- I went this morning on foote from White-hall as far as London 
 Bridge, thro' the late Fleete Street, Ludgate Hill, by St. Paules, 
 Cheapeside, Exchange, Bishopsgate, Aldersgate, and out to Moore- 
 fields, thence thro' Cornehill, &c. with extraordinary difficulty, clam- 
 bering over heaps of yet smoking rubbish, and frequently mistaking 
 where I was. The ground under my feete so hot, that it even burnt 
 the soles of my shoes. In the mean time his Majesty got to the Tower 
 by water, to demolish y e houses about the grafF, which being built 
 
 * The Fumifugium. See p. 339. 
 
 t Dr. Offley was rector of Abinger, and donor of farms to Okevvood Chapel in the parish of Wot- 
 ton, in the patronage of the Evelyn family. 
 
1666.'] 
 
 395 
 
 intirely about it, had they taken fire and attaek'd the White Tower 
 where the magazine of powder lay, would undoubtedly not only have 
 beaten downe and destroy'd all y e bridge, but sunke and torne the 
 vessells in y e river, and render'd y e demolition beyond all expression for 
 several miles about the countrey. 
 
 At my returne I was infinitely concern'd to find that goodly Church 
 St. Paules now a sad mine, and that beautifull portico (for structure 
 comparable to any in Europe, as not long before repair'd by the late 
 King) now rent in pieces, flakes of vast stone split asunder, and no- 
 thing remaining intire but the inscription in the architrave, shewing by 
 whom it was built, which had not one letter of it defac'd. It was 
 astonishing to see what immense stones the heate had in a manner 
 calcin'd, so that all y e ornaments, columns, freezes, capitals, and pro- 
 jectures of massie Portland stone flew oft", even to y c very roofe, where a 
 sheet of lead covering a great space (no lesse than 6 akers by measure) 
 was totally mealted ; the ruines of the vaulted roofe falling broke into 
 St. Faith's, which being fill'd with the magazines of bookes belonging 
 to y e Stationers, and carried thither for safety, they were all consum'd, 
 burning for a weeke following. It is also observable that the lead over 
 y e altar at y e East end was untouch'd, and among the divers monu- 
 ments, the body of one Bishop remain'd intire. Thus lay in ashes that 
 most venerable Church, one of the most antient pieces of early piety in 
 y e Christian world, besides neere 100 more. The lead, yron worke, 
 bells, plate, &c. mealted ; the exquisitely wrought Mercers Chapell, 
 the sumptuous Exchange, y e august fabriq of Christ Church, all v u rest 
 of the Companies Halls, splendid buildings, arches, enteries, all in dust ; 
 the fountaines dried up and ruin'd, whilst the very waters remain'd 
 boiling ; the voragos of subterranean cellars, wells, and dungeons, for- 
 merly warehouses, still burning in stench and dark clowds of smoke, so 
 that in five or six miles traversing about, I did not see one loade of 
 timber unconsum'd, nor many stones but what were calcin'd white as 
 snow. The people who now walk'd about y e ruines appear'd like men 
 in some dismal desert, or rather in some greate Citty laid waste by a 
 cruel enemy ; to which was added the stench that came from some 
 poore creatures bodies, beds, and other combustible goods. Sir Tho. 
 
396 [1666. 
 
 Gresham's statue, tho' fallen from its nich in the Royal Exchange, 
 remain'd intire, when all those of y e Kings since y e Conquest were 
 broken to pieces ; also the standard in Cornehill, and Q. Elizabeth's 
 effigies, with some armes on Ludgate, continued with but little detri- 
 ment, whilst the vast yron chaines of the Citty streetes, hinges, barrs 
 and gates of prisons were many of them mealted and reduced to cinders 
 by y e vehement heate. Nor was I yet able to passe through any of the 
 narrower streetes, but kept the widest ; the ground and air, smoake and 
 fiery vapour, continu'd so intense that my haire was almost sing'd, and 
 my feete unsufferably surbated. The bie lanes and narrower streetes 
 were quite fill'd up with rubbish, nor could one have possibly knowne 
 where he was, but by y e ruines of some Church or Hall, that had some 
 remarkable tower or pinnacle remaining. I then went towards Psling- 
 ton and Highgate, where one might have seene 200,000 people of all 
 ranks and degrees dispers'd and lying along by their heapes of what 
 they could save from the fire, deploring their losse, and tho' ready to 
 perish for hunger and destitution, yet not asking one penny for reliefe, 
 which to me appear'd a stranger sight than any I had yet beheld. His 
 Majesty and Council indeede tooke all imaginable care for their reliefe 
 by proclamation for the country to come in and refresh them with pro- 
 visions. In y° midst of all this calamity and confusion, there was, I 
 know not how, an alarme begun that the French and Dutch, with 
 whom we were now in hostility, where not onely landed, but even en- 
 tering the Citty. There was in truth some days before greate suspicion 
 of those two nations joyning ; and now, that they had ben the occasion 
 of firing the towne. This report did so terrifie, that on a suddaine 
 there was such an uproare and tumult that they ran from their goods, 
 and taking what weapons they could come at, they could not be stopp'd 
 from falling on some of those nations whom they casualy met, without 
 sense or reason. The clamor and peril grew so excessive that it made 
 the whole Court amaz'd, and they did with infinite paines and greate 
 difficulty reduce and appease the people, sending troops of soldiers and 
 guards to cause them to retire into y e fields againe, where they were 
 watch'd all this night. I left them pretty quiet, and .came home suffi- 
 ciently weary and broken. Their spirits thus a little calmed, and the 
 
1666. ~\ 
 
 397 
 
 affright abated, they now began to repaire into y e suburbs about the 
 Citty, where such as had friends or opportunity got shelter for the pre- 
 sent, to which his Mat> s Proclamation also invited them. 
 
 Still y L ' plague continuing in our parish, I could not without danger 
 adventure to our church. 
 
 10. I went againe to y e mines, for it was now no longer a Citty. 
 
 13 Sept. 1 presented his Ma ty with a survey of the ruines, and a 
 plot for a new Citty*, with a discourse on it ; whereupon after dinner 
 his Ma tv sent for me into the Queene's bed chamber, her Ma ty and y e 
 Duke onely being present ; they examin'd each particular, and dis- 
 cours'd on them for neere an houre, seeming to be extreamly pleas'd 
 with what I had so early thought on. The Queene was now in her 
 cavalier riding habite, hat and feather, and horseman's coate, going 
 to take the aire. 
 
 16. I went to Greene wich Church, where Mr. Plume preached very 
 well from this text : " Seeing therefore all these things must be dis- 
 solv'd," &c. taking occasion from y e late unparalell'd conflagration to 
 mind us how we ought to walke more holyly in all manner of con- 
 versation. 
 
 27. Dined at Sir W m D'Oylie's, with that worthy gent. S r John 
 Holland of SufFolke. 
 
 10 Oct. This day was order'd a generall fast thro' the Nation, to 
 humble us on y e late dreadfull conflagration, added to the plague and 
 warr, the most dismall judgments that could be inflicted, but which 
 indeede we highly deserv'd for our prodigious ingratitude, burning 
 
 * See a letter of Mr. Evelyn to Sir Samuel Tuke on the subject of the Fire, and his plan for 
 rebuilding the City, in vol. II. pp. 170 — 17*2. Part of this plan was to lessen the declivities, and 
 to employ the rubbish in filling up the shore of the Thames to low water mark, so as to keep the 
 Basin always full. — In a letter to Mr. Oldenburg, Secretary to the Royal Society, 22 Dec. \66G, 
 he says, after mentioning the presenting his reflections on re-building the City to his Maty, that 
 " the want of a more exact plot, wherein I might have marked what the Fire had spared, and 
 accommodated my designe to the remaining parts, made me take it as a rasa tabula, and to forme 
 mine idea thereof accordingly : I have since lighted upon Mr. Hollar's late Plan, which looking 
 upon as the most accurate hitherto extant, has caus'd me something to alter what 1 had so crudely 
 don, though for the most part I still persist in my former discourse, and wiche I heare send you 
 83 compleate as an imperfect copy will give me leave, and the suppliment of an ill memory, for 
 since that tyme I hardly euer look'd on it, and it was finish'd within two or three dayes after the 
 Incendium." 
 
398 
 
 11666. 
 
 lusts, dissolute Court, profane and abominable lives, under such dispen- 
 sations of God's continu'd favour in restoring Church, Prince, and 
 People from our late intestine calamities, of which we were altogether 
 unmindfull, even to astonishment. This made me resolve to go to our 
 parish assemblie, where our Doctor preach'd on y e 19 Luke 41, piously 
 applying it to the occasion. After w ch was a collection for y e distress'd 
 loosers in the late fire. 
 
 18. To Court. It being y e first time his Ma l > put himself 
 solemnly into the Eastern fashion of vest, changeing doublet, stiff 
 collar, bands and cloake, into a comely vest, after y e Persian mode, 
 with girdle or straps, and shoe strings and garters into bouckles, of 
 which some were set with precious stones*, resolving never to alter it, 
 and to leave the French mode, which had hitherto obtain'd to our 
 greate expence and reproch. Upon which divers courtiers and gentle- 
 men gave his Ma ty gold by way of wager that he would not persist in 
 this resolution. I had sometime before presented an invective against 
 that unconstancy, and our so much affecting the French fashion, to his 
 Ma ty , in which I tooke occasion to describe the comelinesse and useful- 
 nesse of the Persian clothing, in y e very same manner his Ma ( > now clad 
 himselfe. This pamphlet I intitPd " Tyrannus, or the Mode," and 
 gave it to his Ma'^ to reade. I do not impute to this discourse the 
 change which soone happen'd, but it was an identity that I could not 
 but take notice of. 
 
 This night was acted my Lord Broghill'sf tragedy call'd " Mus- 
 tapha" before their Ma ties at Court, at which I was present, very sel- 
 dom going to the publiq theaters for many reasons, now as they were 
 abused to an atheistical liberty, fowle and undecent women now (and 
 never till now) permitted to appeare and act, who inflaming severall 
 young noblemen and gallants, became their misses, and to some their 
 wives X; witness y e Earl of Oxford, Sir R. Howard, P. Rupert, the 
 
 * It would be curious to see a portrait of the King in this costume, which was however shortly 
 utter abandoned and laid aside. 
 
 f Richard Lord Broghill, created shortly after this Earl of Orrery; he wrote several other plays 
 besides that here noticed. 
 
 X Mrs. Margaret Hughes, Nell Gwynn, who left the Earl for his Majesty, to whom were added 
 Mrs. Davis and Mrs. Knight. 
 
1666.'] 
 
 399 
 
 Earle of Dorset, and another greater person than any of them, who 
 fell into their snares, to y e reproch of their noble families, and mine of 
 both body and soule. I was invited by my Lo. Chamberlaine to see 
 this tragedy, exceedingly well written, tho' in my mind I did not ap- 
 prove of any such pastime in a season of such judgments and calamities. 
 
 21. This season, after so long and extraordinarie a drowth in Au- 
 gust and September, as if preparatory for the dreadfull fire, was so 
 very wett and rainy as many feared an ensuing famine. 
 
 28. The pestilence, thro' God's mercy, began now to abate con- 
 siderably in our towne. 
 
 30. To London to our office, and now had I on the vest and sur- 
 coat or tunic as 'twas call'd, after his Ma^ had brought the whole Court 
 to it. It was a comely and manly habit, too good to hold, it being 
 impossible for us in good earnest to leave y e Monsieurs vanities long. 
 
 31. I heard the signal cause of my L d Cleaveland pleaded before 
 the House of Lords, and was this day 46 yeares of age, wonderfully pro- 
 tected by the mercies of God, for which I render him immortal thanks. 
 
 14 Nov. I went my winter circle thro' my district, Rochester & other 
 places, where I had men quarter'd and in custody. — 15. To Leeds Castle. 
 
 16. I muster'd y e prisoners being about 600 Dutch and French, 
 order'd their proportion of bread to be augmented, and provided cloaths 
 and fuell. Mons r Colbert, Ambass 1- at the Court of England, this day 
 sent mony from his master the French King to every prisoner of that 
 nation under my guard. 
 
 17. I return'd to Chatham. My chariott overturning on the 
 steepe of Bexley Hill, wounded me in two places on the head ; my sonn 
 Jack being with me was like to have ben worse cutt by the glasse ; but 
 1 thanke God we both escaped without much hurt, tho' not without 
 exceeding danger. — 18. At Rochester. — 19. Return'd home. 
 
 23. At London I heard an extraordinary case before a Committee of 
 the whole House of Commons, in the Commons House of Parliament, 
 between one Capt. Taylor and my Lo. Vise 1 Mordaunt*, where after 
 the lawyers had pleaded, and the witnesses ben examin'd, such foul 
 
 * See the whole proceedings in this affair in the Journals of Lords and Commons under this year. 
 
400 
 
 [1666. 
 
 and dishonourable things were produc'd against his Lordship, of ty- 
 ranny during his government of Windsor Castle, of w ch he was Con- 
 stable, incontinence, and suborning witnesses (of which last one S r 
 Richard Breames was most concerned), that I was exceedingly interested 
 for his Lordship, who was my special friend, and husband of the most 
 virtuous lady in the world. We sate till neere 10 at night, and yet but 
 halfe the Council had done on behalfe of y e Plantiffe. The question 
 then was put for bringing in of lights to sit longer ; this lasted so long 
 before it was determin'd, and rais'd such a confus'd noise among the 
 Members, that a stranger would have ben astonish'd at it. I admire 
 that there is not a rationale to regulate such trifling accidents, which 
 consume a world of time, and is a reproch to the gravity of so greate 
 an assembly of sober men. 
 
 27. Sir Hugh Pollard, Comptroller of the Household, died at 
 White-hall, and his Ma tv conferr'd the white staffe on my brother Com- 
 miss 1 for sick and wounded, S l Tho. Clifford*, a bold young gentle- 
 man, of a small fortune in Devon, but advanc'd by Lo. Arlington, 
 Seer, of State, to y e greate astonishment of all the Court. This gen- 
 tleman was somewhat related to me by y e marriage of his mother to 
 mv neerest kinsman Gregory Coalef, and was ever my noble friend, 
 a valiant and daring person, but by no means fit for a supple and flat- 
 tering courtier. 
 
 28. Went to see Clarendon House ^, now almost finish'd, a goodly 
 pile to see to, but had many defects as to y e architecture, yet plac'd 
 most gracefully. After this I waited on the L' J Chancellor, who was now 
 at Berkshire House §, since the burning of London. 
 
 * Afterwards Lord Treasurer. 
 
 f Of this gentleman and his family, seated at Petersham in Surrey, see Hist, of that County, 
 vol. I. pp. 439, 441, but his connection with the Evelyns does not appear. 
 
 ♦ Since quite demolished : see hereafter. It was situated where Albemarle Street now is. After 
 Lord Clarendon's exile, the Duke of Albemarle occupied this noble mansion, of which there are 
 two engraved views at least, one a small one by John Duiistall, and another upon a very large 
 scale by J Spilbergh. 
 
 § Berkshire or Cleaveland House belonged to the Howards Earls of Berkshire, and stood very 
 near the royal residence. It was afterwards purchased and presented by Charles II. to Barbara 
 Du1 chess of Cleveland. It was then of great extent ; she however afterwards sold part, which was 
 built into various houses. 
 
1667.2 401 
 
 2 Dec. Din'd with me Mons r Kiviet, a Dutch gent" pensioner of 
 Rotterdam, who came over for protection, being of the Prince of 
 Orange's party, now not wellcome in Holland. The King knighted 
 him for some merit in y e Prince's behalf. He should, if caught, have 
 ben beheaded with Mons r Buat, and was brother-in-law to Van Tromp, 
 the Sea Generall. With him came Mr. Gabriel Sylvius*, and Mr. 
 Williamson* Secretaire to Lord Arlington; S r Kiviet came to exa- 
 mine whether the soile about the river of Thames would be proper to 
 make clinker-bricks, and to treate with me about some accomodation in 
 order to it-f\ 
 
 1667- 9 Jan. To the Royal Society, which since y e sad conflagra- 
 tion were invited by Mr. Howard to sit at Arundel House in the Strand, 
 who at my instigation likewise bestow'd on the Society that noble li- 
 brary which his grandfather especialy, and his ancestors had collected. 
 This gentleman had so little inclination to bookes, that it was the pre- 
 servation of them from imbezzlement. 
 
 24. Visited my Lo. Chancellor, and presented my son John to him, 
 now preparing to go to Oxford, of which his Lordship was Chancellor. 
 This evening I heard rare Italian voices, two eunuchs and one woman, 
 in his Ma tvs greene chamber next his cabinet. 
 
 29 Jan. To London in order to my son's Oxford journey, who 
 being very early entCr'd both in Latin and Greek, and prompt to learn 
 beyond most of his age, I was persuaded to trust him under y c tutorage 
 of Mr. Bohun, fellow of New College, who had ben his preceptor in 
 my house some years before ; but at Oxford under y e inspection of Dr. 
 Bathurst, President of Trinity Coll., where I plac'd him, not as yet 
 13 years old. He was newly out of long coatesj. 
 
 15 Feb. My little booke in answer to Sir Geo. Mackenzie on Soli- 
 tude was now published, intitled, " Public Employment and an active 
 Life with its Appanages preferred to Solitude." § 
 
 * More is said of these gentlemen afterwards. f See pp. 402, 409. 
 
 t At the Swan Inn at Letherhead in Surrey is a picture of 4 children, dates of birth between 
 16-10 and 1650 j one of them is a boy about this age, in a coat or vest, reaching almost to his 
 ancles. 
 
 § In a letter to Mr. Cowley 12 Mar. 1666 he apologizes for having written against that life, 
 which he had joined with Mr. Cowley in so much admiring, assuring him he neither was, nor 
 could be, serious. 
 
 VOL. I. 3 F 
 
402 
 
 19. I saw a comedy acted at Court. In the afternoone I saw a 
 wrestling-match for ,^.1000 in St. James's Park, before his Ma lv , a 
 world of lords and other spectators, 'twixt the Western and Northern 
 men, Mr. Secretary Morice and Lo. Gerard being the judges. The 
 Western men won. Many greate sums were betted. 
 
 18. I saw a magnificent ball or masque in the Theater at Court, 
 where their Ma ties and all the greate Lords and Ladies daunced, infi- 
 nitely gallant, the men in their richly embrodred most becoming vests. 
 
 6 March. I proposed to my Lo. Chancellor Mons r Kiviet's under- 
 taking to warfe the whole river of Thames, or Key, from the Temple 
 to the Tower, as far as y e fire destroied, with brick, without piles, both 
 lasting and ornamental*. — Great frosts, snow and winds, prodigious at 
 the vernal equinox ; indeede it had ben a yeare of prodigies in this na- 
 tion, plague, warr, fire, rains, tempest, and comet. 
 
 14. Saw "The Virgin Queene," a play written by Mr. Dryden. 
 
 22. Din'd at Mr. Sec. Morice's, who shew'd me his library, w ch 
 was a well-chosen collection. This afternoone I had audience of his 
 Ma'y concerning the proposal I had made of building the Key. 
 
 26. S r John Kiviet din'd with me. We went to search for brick 
 earth in order to a greate undertaking. 
 
 4 April. The cold so intense that there was hardly a leaf on a tree. 
 
 18. I went to make court to the Duke and Duchess of Newcastle 
 at their house at Clerkenwell^, being newly come out of the North. 
 They receiv'd me with great kindnesse, and I was much pleas'd with 
 the extraordinary fanciful habit, garb, and discourse of the Dutchess. 
 
 22. Saw the sumptuous supper in the Banquetting-house at White- 
 hall on the eve of St. George's day, where were all the Companions of 
 the Order of the Garter. 
 
 23. In the morning his Ma 1 * went to Chapell with the Knights of 
 the Garter all in their habits and robes, usher'd by y e Heraulds ; after 
 the first service they went in procession, the youngest first, the Sove- 
 
 * See pp. 401, 409. 
 
 t The Duke spent a princely fortune in the service of Charles I. and II. He wrote on Horse- 
 manship a curious and splendid volume. Part of the old house is still standing in Clerkenwell 
 Close (1816). 
 
1667.2 
 
 403 
 
 reigne last, with the Prelate of the Order and Dean, who had about 
 his neck y e booke of the Statutes of the Order, and then the Chancellor 
 of the Order (old S r Hen. de Vic) who wore y e purse about his neck ; 
 then the Heraulds and Garter King at Arms, Clarencieux, Black Rod. 
 But before y e Prelate and Deane of Windsor went the Gentlemen of the 
 Chapell, and Choristers singing as they marched ; behind them two 
 Doctors of Musick in damask robes; this procession was about the 
 Courts of White-hall. Then returning to their stalls and seates in the 
 Chapell, plac'd under each Knights coate armour and titles, the second 
 service began : then the King offer'd at y e altar, an anthem was sung, 
 then y e rest of the Knights offer'd, and lastly proceeded to the Ban- 
 quetting-house to a greate feast. The King sat on an elevated throne 
 at the upper end at a table alone, the Knights at a table on the right 
 hand, reaching all the length of y e roome ; over against them a cup- 
 board of rich gilded plate ; at the lower end the musick ; on the balus- 
 ters above, wind musick, trumpets and kettle-drums. The King was 
 serv'd by y e Lords and Pensioners, who brought up the dishes. About 
 the middle of the dinner the Knights drank the King's health, then y e 
 King theirs, when the trumpets and musick plaid and sounded, the guns 
 going off at the Tower. At y e banquet came in the Queene and stood 
 by the King's left hand, but did not sit. Then was the banquetting 
 stuff flung about the roome profusely. In truth the croud was so greate, 
 that tho' I staied all the supper y e day before, I now staied no longer 
 than this sport began for feare of disorder. The cheere was extraor- 
 dinary, each Knight having 40 dishes to his messe, piled up 5 or 6 
 high. The roome hung with y e richest tapessry. 
 
 25. Visited again y e Duke of Newcastle, with whom I had ben ac- 
 quainted long before in France, where the Dutchess had obligation to 
 my wives mother, for her marriage there ; she was sister to Lord Lucas 
 and maid of honor then to the Queene Mother ; married in our Chapel 
 at Paris. My wife being with me, the Duke and Dutchess both would 
 needs bring her to the very Court. 
 
 26. My Lord Chancellor shewed me all his newly-finished and fur- 
 nished palace and librarie : then we went to take the aire in Hide 
 Park. 
 
404 [1667- 
 
 2/. I had a greate deale of discourse with his Majestie at dinner. 
 In the afternoone I went againe with my wife to the Dutchess of New- 
 castle, who receiv'd her in a kind of transport, suitable to her extra- 
 vagant humour and dresse, which was very singular. 
 
 May 8. Made up accounts with our Receiver, which amounted to 
 ^.33,936. Is. 4d. Dined at Lord Cornbury's with Don Francisco de 
 Melos, Portugal Ambassador and kindred to the Queene : of the party 
 were Mr. Henry Jermaine, and S r Hen. Capell. Afterwards I went to 
 Arundel House to salute Mr. Howard's sons, newly return'd out of 
 France. 
 
 11. To London, dined with the Duke of Newcastle, and sate dis- 
 coursing with her Grace in her bed-chamber after dinner, till my Lo. 
 Marquiss of Dorchester with other company came in, when I went 
 away. 
 
 30. To London to wait on the Dutchess of Newcastle (who was a 
 mighty pretender to learning, poetrie, and philosophic, and had in both 
 publish'd divers bookes) to the Royal Society*, whither she came in 
 greate pomp, and being receiv'd by our Lord President at the dore of 
 our meeting roome, the mace, &c. carried before him, had several ex- 
 periments shewed to her. I conducted her Grace to her coach, and 
 return'd home. 
 
 1 June. I went to Greenewich, where his Ma ;y was trying divers 
 granado's shot out of cannon at the Castle-hill, from the house in the 
 Park ; they brake not till they hit the mark, the forg'd ones brake not 
 at all, but the cast ones very well. The inventor was a German, there 
 present. At the same time a ring was shewed to his Ma tv , pretended 
 to be a projection of mercury, and malleable, and say'd by y e gentlemen 
 to be fix'd by the juice of a plant. 
 
 18. To London, alarm'd by the Dutch, who were fallen on our 
 fleete at Chatham, by a most audacious enterprise entering the very 
 river with part of their fleete, doing us not only disgrace, but incredible 
 
 * This reminds us of ihe visit of another great lady, Queen Christina, to the French Academy, 
 at one of their sittings, recorded by Mons" - Pellisson in his History of that learned body. Queen 
 Caroline, wife of King George II. also affected the Company of deep Divines, Scholars, and Phi- 
 losophers. 
 
1667.'] 
 
 405 
 
 mischiefe in burning severall of our best men of warr lying at anker 
 and moor'd there, and all this thro' our unaccountable negligence in 
 not setting out our fleete in due time. This alarme caus'd me, fearing 
 y e enemie might venture up y e Thames even to London, (which they 
 might have don with ease, and fir'd all y e vessells in y e river too,) to 
 send away my best goods, plate, &c. from my house to another place. 
 The alarme was so greate that it put both Country and Citty into a 
 paniq feare and consternation, such as I hope as I shall never see 
 more ; every body was flying, none knew why or whither. Now there 
 were land forces dispatch'd with the Duke of Albemarle, Lord Mid- 
 dleton, Prince Rupert, and the Duke, to hinder y e Dutch coming to 
 Chatham, fortifying Upnor Castle, and laying chaines and booms ; but 
 y e resolute enemy brake thro' all, and set fire on our ships, and retreated 
 in spight, stopping up the Thames, the rest of their fleet lying before 
 the mouth of it. 
 
 14 June. I went to see the work at Woolwich, a battery to prevent 
 them from coming up to London, which Pr. Rupert commanded, and 
 sunk some ships in the river. 
 
 17. This night about 2 o'clock some chipps and combustible matter 
 prepar'd for some fire-ships taking flame in Deptford Yard made such 
 a blaze, and caus'd such an uproar in y e Tower, it being given out that 
 the Dutch fleete was come up and had landed their men and fir'd the 
 Tower, as had like to have don more mischeife before people would be 
 persuaded to the contrary and believe the accident. Every body went 
 to their armes. These were sad and troublesome times ! 
 
 24. The Dutch fleet still continuing to stop up the river, so as 
 nothing could stir out or come in, I was before y e Council, and com- 
 manded by his Ma'y to go with some others and search about the envi- 
 rons of the Citty, now exceedingly distress'd for want of fuell, whether 
 there could be any peate or turfe found fit for use. The next day I 
 went and discover'd enough, and made my report that there might be 
 found a greate deale ; but nothing further was don in it. 
 
 28. I went to Chatham, and thence to view not onely what mis- 
 cheife the Dutch had don, but how triumphantly their whole fleete lay 
 within the very mouth of the Thames, all from y e North fore-land, 
 
406 [1667. 
 
 Margate, even to y e buoy of the Nore — a dreadfull spectacle as ever 
 Englishmen saw, and a dishonour never to be wip'd off I Those who 
 advis'd his Ma ty to prepare no fleete this spring deserv'd — I know 
 what — but* 
 
 Here in the river off Chatham, just before y e towne, lay y e carkass of 
 the London (now the third time burnt), the Royal Oake, the James, 
 &c. yet smoking ; and now, when the mischeife was don, we were 
 making trifling forts on y e brink of the river. Here were yet forces 
 both of horse and foote, with Gen. Midleton continually expecting the 
 motions of the enemy's fleete. I had much discourse with him, who 
 was an experienc'd commander. I told him I wonder'd the King did 
 not fortifie Sheernesse-j- and the Ferry ; both abandon'd. 
 
 2 July. Call'd upon by my Lo. Arlington as from his Ma tv about 
 the new fuell. The occasion why I was mention'd was from what I 
 had said in my Sylva three yeares before, about a sort of fuell, for a 
 neede, which obstructed a patent of Lord Carlingford, who had ben 
 seeking for it himselfe; he was endeavouring to bring me into the 
 project, and proferr'd me a share. I met my Lord ; and on the 9 th by 
 an order of council went to my Lord Maior to be assisting. In the 
 meane time they had made an experiment of my receipt of houllies, 
 which I mention in my booke to be made at Maestricht with a mixture 
 of charcoal dust and loame, and which was tried with successe at 
 Gressham Colledge (then being the exchange for meeting of the mer- 
 chants since the Fire) for every body to see. This done, I went to the 
 Treasury for 12,000/. for y e sick and wounded yet on my hands. 
 
 Next day we met againe about the fuell at Sir Ja. Armorer's in 
 the Mewes. 
 
 8. My Lord Brereton and others din'd at my house, where I shewed 
 them proofe of my new fuell, which was very glowing and without 
 smoke or ill smell. 
 
 * The Parliament giving but weak supplies for the war, the King to save charges is persuaded 
 by the Chancellor, the Lord Treasurer Southampton, the Duke of Albemarle, and the other 
 Ministers, to lay up the first and second rate ships, and make only a defensive war in the next 
 campaign. The Duke of York opposed this, but was over-ruled. Life of King James II. vol. I. 
 P- 4^5. since done. 
 
407 
 
 10. I went to see Sir Sam. Morland's* inventions and machines, 
 arithmetical wheeles, quench -fires, and new harp. 
 
 17. The Master of the Mint and his Lady, Mr. Williamson, Sir 
 Nich s Armorer, Sir Edw. Bowyer, Sir Anth> Auger, & other friends, 
 dined with me. 
 
 29 July. I went to Gravesend, the Dutch fleete still at anker before 
 the river, where I saw 5 of his Ma'- S men of war encounter above 
 20 of the Dutch, in the bottome of the Hope, chaceing them with 
 many broadsides given and return'd towards the buoy of the Nore, 
 where the body of their fleete lay, w ch lasted till about midnight. One 
 of their ships was fir'd, suppos'd by themselves, she being run on 
 ground. Having seene this bold action, and their braving us so far 
 up the river, I went home y c next day, not withouf indignation at our 
 negligence, and the Nation's reproch. 'Tis well known who of the 
 Commiss rs of the Treasury gave advice that the charge of setting forth 
 a fleete this yeare might be spar'd, S r W. C. (William Coventrie) 
 by name. 
 
 1 Aug. I receiv'd the sad newes of Abraham Cowley's death, that 
 incomparable poet and virtuous man, my very deare friend, and was 
 greately deplored. 
 
 3. Went to Mr. Cowley's funerall, whose corps lay at Wallingford 
 House, and was thence convey 'd to Westm r Abby in a hearse with 6 
 horses and all funeral decency, neere an hundred coaches of noblemen 
 and persons of qualitie following ; among these all the witts of the 
 
 * Mr. Aubrey says : " Under the Equestrian Statue of Cha. 2. in the great Court at Windsor is 
 an engine for raising water contrived by S r Sam. Morland, alias Morley. He was son of Sr Sam. 
 Morland of Sulhamsted, Barrister, Berks, created Bart, by Cha. 2. in consideration of services per- 
 formed during his exile. The son was a great mechanic, & was presented with a good medal & 
 made Magister MeehanicoTitm by the king in 1681 . He invented the drum capstands for weighing 
 heavy anchors ; the speaking trumpet, & other usefull engines. He died & was buried at Ham- 
 mersmith, Middl", 1696. There is a monum 1 for y e 2 wives of S r Sam. Morland in Westm r 
 Abbey. There is a print of the son by Lombart after Lely. This S r Sam. the son, built a large 
 room in his garden at Vauxhall, wch was much admired at that time. On the top was a punchi- 
 nello holding a dial." Aubrey's Surrey, vol.1, p. 12. See more of him in Manning and Bray's 
 History of Surrey, vol. III. 489, 490, 491, and Appendix, p. cv. — He is also noticed again several 
 times in this Diary ; see particularly under the year 1681. Sept. 
 
408 
 
 towne, divers bishops and cleargymen. He was interr'd next Geoffry 
 Chaucer and neere Spenser. A goodly monument since erected to his 
 memorie. 
 
 Now did his Ma tJ againe dine in y c Presence, in ancient state, with 
 musiq and all the Court ceremonies, which had ben interrupted since 
 >' late warr. 
 
 8. Visited Mr. Oldenburg, now close prisoner in the Tower, being 
 suspected of writing intelligence. I had an order from Lo. Arlington, 
 Seer, of State, which caus'd me to be admitted. This gent" was Secre- 
 tary to our Society, and I am confident will prove an innocent person*. 
 
 15. Finish'd my account, amounting to ,^.25,000. 
 
 To y e funerall of Mr. Farringdon, a relation of my wife's. 
 
 There was now a very gallant horse to be baited to death with doggs; 
 but he fought them all, so as the fiercest of them could not fasten on 
 him, till they run him through with their swords. This wicked and 
 barbarous sport deserv'd to have ben punish'd in the cruel contrivers to 
 get mony, under pretence that the horse had kill'd a man, which was 
 false. I would not be persuaded to be a spectator. 
 
 21. Saw y e famous Italian puppet play, for 'twas no other. 
 
 24. I was appointed with y e rest of my brother Commiss rs to put in 
 execution an order of Council for freeing the prisoners at war in my 
 custody at Leedes Castle, and taking off his Ma tNS extraordinary charge, 
 having call'd before us the French and Dutch agents. The peace was 
 now proclaimed in the usual forme by the heraulds at armes. 
 
 25. After evening service I went to visit Mr. Vaughan-f, who lay 
 at Greenwich, a very wise and learned person, one of Mr. Selden's 
 executors and intimate friends. 
 
 27. Visited the Lo. Chancellor, to whom his Ma f > had sent for the 
 seales a few days before ; I found him in his bed-chamber very sad. 
 The Parliament had accus'd him, and he had enemies at Court, espe- 
 cialy the buffoones and ladys of pleasure, because he thwarted some of 
 them and stood in their way ; I could name some of y e cheife. The 
 truth is, he made few friends during his grandeur among the royal 
 
 * He was released soon after. 
 
 f Afterwards Lord Chief Justice. 
 
1667-3 
 
 409 
 
 sufferers, but advanc'd the old rebells. He was, however, tho' no 
 considerable lawyer, one who kept up y e forme and substance of things 
 in y e Nation with more solemnity than some would have had. He was 
 my particular kind friend on all occasions. The Cabal, however, 
 prevail'd, and that party in Parliament. Greate division at Court con- 
 cerning him, and divers greate persons interceding for him. 
 
 28. I din'd with my late Lo. Chanc r , where also din'd Mr. Ashburn- 
 ham, and Mr. W Legg of the Bed-chamber; his Lordship pretty well 
 in heart, tho' now many of his friends and sycophants abandon'd him. 
 
 In the afternoone I went to the Lords Commiss" for mony, and 
 thence to the audience of a Russian Envoy in y e Queene's presence- 
 chamber, introduc'd with much state, the souldiers, pensioners, and 
 guards in their order. His letters of credence brought by his secretary 
 in a scarfe of sarsenett, their vests sumptuous, much embroider'd with 
 pearls. He deliver'd his speech in y e Russe language aloud, but with- 
 out y e least action or motion of his body, which was immediately in- 
 terpreted aloud by a German that spake good English ; halfe of it 
 consisted in repetition of the Zarr's titles, which were very haughty 
 and oriental, the substance of y e rest was that he was only sent to see 
 y e King and Queene, and know how they did, with much compliment 
 and frothy language. Then they kiss'd their Ma tKS hands, and went as 
 they came ; but their real errand was to get money. 
 
 29. We met at y e Star Chamber about exchange and release of 
 prisoners. 
 
 7 Sept. Came Sir John Kiviet to article with me about his brick- 
 work*. 
 
 13. 'Twixt the houres of twelve & one was borne my second 
 daughter, who was afterwards christned Elizabeth. 
 
 19. To London with Mr. Hen. Howard of Norfolk, of whom I 
 obtain'd y e gift of his Arundelian Marbles, those celebrated and famous 
 inscriptions Greeke and Latine, gather'd with so much cost and industrie 
 from Greece, by his illustrious grandfather the magnificent Earle of 
 Arundel, my noble friend whilst he liv'd. When I saw these precious 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 * See pp. 401, 402. 
 3 G 
 
410 
 
 [1667- 
 
 monuments miserably neglected and scatter'd up and downe about the 
 garden, and other parts of Arundel House, and how exceedingly the 
 corrosive aire of London impair'd them, I procur'd him to bestow them 
 on the University of Oxford. This he was pleas'd to grant me, and 
 now gave me the key of the gallery, with leave to mark all those stones, 
 urns, altars, &c. and whatever I found had inscriptions on them, that 
 were not statues. This I did, and getting them remov'd and pi I'd to- 
 gether, with those which were incrusted in the garden-walls, I sent 
 immediately letters to y e Vice-Chancellor of what I had procur'd, and 
 that if they esteem'd it a service to y L ' University (of which I had 
 ben a member) they should take order for their transportation. 
 
 This don, 21st I accompanied Mr. Howard to his villa at Albury, 
 where I design'd for him the plot of his canal 1 and garden, with a 
 crypt* thro' the hill. 
 
 24 Sept. Returned to London, where I had orders to deliver y e 
 possession of Chelsey Colledge (us'd as my prison during the warr 
 with Holland for such as were sent from the Fleete to London) to our 
 Society, as a gift of his Ma tv our founder. 
 
 8 Oct. Came to dine with me Dr. Bathurst, Deane of Wells, Presi- 
 dent of Trinity Coll. sent by the Vice-Chancelor of Oxford, in the 
 name both of him and the whole University, to thank me for procuring 
 y e Inscriptions, and to receive my directions what was to be don to 
 shew their gratitude to Mr. Howard. 
 
 11. I went to see Lord Clarendon, late Lord Chancellor and 
 greatest officer in England, in continual apprehension what the Par- 
 liament would determine concerning him. 
 
 17. Came Dr. Barlow, Provost of Queen's Coll. and Protobibiio- 
 thecus of the Bodleian Library, to take order about y c transportation 
 of y e Marbles. 
 
 25. There were deliver'd to me two letters from the Vice-Chan- 
 celor of Oxford with the Decree of the Convocation attested by the 
 Publick Notary, ordering four Doctors of Divinity and Law to acknow- 
 ledge the obligation the University had to me for procuring the 3far- 
 
 Still in part remaining, but stopped up at the further end (1816.) 
 
i66 7 .] 
 
 411 
 
 mora j4.rundelia.na, which was solemnly don by Dr. Barlow*, Dr. 
 Jenkins f, Judge of the Admiralty, Dr. Lloyd, and Obadiah Walker^ 
 of University Coll. who having made me a large compliment from the 
 University, deliver'd me the Decree fairly written : 
 
 Gesta venerabili domo Convocations Universitatis Oxon ; . . 17. 1 6^67 . 
 ^)uo die retulit ad Senatum Academician Dominus Vicecancellarius, quantum 
 Universitas deberet singular] benevolentiae Johannis Evelini Armigeri, qui pro 
 ea pietate qua Almam Matrem prosequitur non solum Suasu et Concilio apud 
 inclytum Heroem Henricum Howard, Ducis Norfolciae haeredem, intercessit 
 ut Universitati pretiosissimum eruditae antiquitatis thesaurum Marmora Arun- 
 deliana largiretur ; sed egrcgius insuper in ijs colligendis asservandisq; navavit 
 operam : Quapropter unanimi suffragio Venerabilis Domus decretum est ut 
 eidem publicae gratia? per dclegatos ad Honoratissimum Dominum Henricum 
 Howard propediem mittendos, solemniter reddantur. 
 
 Concordat superscripta cum originali collatione facta per me Ben, 
 Cooper Notarium Publicum et Keg riu,n Universitat. Oxon. 
 
 " Sir, 
 
 " We intend also a noble inscription, in which also honorable mention shall 
 be made of yourselfe ; but Mr. Vice Chanc r commands me to tell you that 
 that was not sufficient for your merits, but that if your occasions would permit 
 you to come down at the Act (when we intend a dedication of our new 
 Theater), some other testimonie should be given both of your owne worth 
 and affection to this your old Mother ; for we are all very sensible of this 
 greate addition of learning and reputation to the Universitie is due as well to 
 your industrious care for the Universitie, and interest with my Lord Howard, 
 as to his greate noblenesse and generositie of spirit. 
 
 " I am, Sir, your most humble servant, 
 
 " Obadiah Walker, Univ. Coll." 
 
 The Vice-Chancellor's letter to y c same effect were too vaine-glorious 
 to insert, with divers copies of verses that were also sent me. Their 
 mentioning me in the inscription I totally declin'd when I directed 
 the titles of Mr. Howard, now made Lord upon his ambassage to 
 Morocco. 
 
 * Bishop of Lincoln. f Afterwards Sir Leoline Jenkins, Secretary of State. 
 
 ♦ Subsequently head of that College. See pp. '235. "259; under 1675, July ; 1686, May ; and 
 vol. II. p. 58. 
 
412 
 
 [1667. 
 
 These fower Doctors having made me this compliment, desir'd me 
 to carry and introduce them to Mr. Howard at Arundel House : which I 
 did, Dr. Barlow (Provost of Queenes) after a short speech, delivering 
 a larger letter of the University's thankes, which was written in La- 
 tine, expressing the greate sense they had of the honour don them. 
 After this compliment handsomely perform'd, and as nobly receiv'd, 
 Mr. Howard accompanied the Doctors to their coach. That evening I 
 supp'd with them. 
 
 26. My late L d Chancellor was accused by Mr. Seamour in the 
 House of Commons ; and in the evening I returned home. 
 
 31 Oct. My birth-day — blessed be God for all his mercies ! I made 
 y e Royal Society a present of y e Table of Veines, Arteries and Nerves, 
 which great curiositie I had caus'd to be made in Italy, out of the na- 
 tural human bodies by a learned physitian, and the help of Vestlingius 
 (professor at Padua), from whence I brought them in 16*46. For this 
 I receiv'd y e public thanks of the Society; and they are hanging up in 
 their Repository with an inscription. 
 
 9 Dec. To visit the late Lord Chancellor. I found him in his gar- 
 den at his new-built palace, sitting in his gowt wheele-chayre, and 
 seeing the gates setting up towards the North and the fields. He 
 look'd and spake very disconsolately. After some while deploring his 
 condition to me, I tooke my leave. Next morning I heard he was 
 gon ; tho' I am persuaded that had he gon sooner, tho' but to Corn- 
 bury, and their lain quiet, it would have satisfied the Parliament. 
 That w cli exasperated them was his presuming to stay and contest the 
 accusation as long as 'twas possible ; and they were on y e point of 
 sending him to y e Tower. 
 
 10. I went to the funerall of Mrs. Heath, wife to my worthy friend 
 and schoolfellow. 
 
 21. I saw one Carr piloried at Charing-Crosse for a libel, which 
 was burnt before him by the hangman. 
 
 1668. 8 Jan. I saw deepe and prodigious gaming at the Groome- 
 Porters, vast heapes of gold squander'd away in a vaine and profuse 
 manner. This I looked on as a horrid vice and unsuitable in a Chris- 
 tian Court. 
 
1668.] 
 
 413 
 
 9. Went to see the Revells at the Middle Temple, which is also 
 an old but riotous costome, and has relation neither to virtue nor 
 policy. 
 
 10. To visite Mr. Povey, where were divers greate Lords to see 
 his well-contrived cellar and other elegancies*. 
 
 24. We went to stake out ground for building a Colledge for y L 
 Royal Society at Arundel House, but did not finish it, which we shall 
 repent of. 
 
 4 Feb. I saw y e tragedy of " Horace" (written by y e virtuous Mrs. 
 Phillips) acted before their Ma ties . 'Twixt each act a masq and antiq 
 daunce. The excessive gallantry of the ladies was infinite, those es- 
 pecialy on that .... Castlemaine esteem'd at ^.40,000 and more, 
 far outshining y e Queene. 
 
 15. I saw y e audience of y e Swedish Ambass r Count Donna, in 
 greate state in the Banquetting-house. 
 
 3 Mar. Was launch'd at Deptford, that goodly vessell the Charles. 
 I was neere his Ma tv . She is longer than y e Soveraine, and carries 110 
 brasse canon ; she was built by old Shish, a plaine honest carpenter, 
 master builder of this dock, but one who can give very little account 
 of his art by discourse, and is hardly capable of reading-^, yet of greate 
 abilitie in his calling. The family have been ship carpenters in this 
 yard above 100 yeares. 
 
 12. Went to visit Sir John Cotton, who had me into his library, 
 full of good MSS. Greek and Latin, but most famous for those of the 
 Saxon and English Antiquities, collected by his grandfather. 
 
 2 April. To the Royall Societie, where I subscrib'd 50,000 bricks 
 towards building a Colledge. Amongst other libertine libels there 
 was one now printed and thrown about, a bold petition of the poore 
 whores to Lady Castlemaine J. 
 
 9. To London about finishing my grand account of the sick and 
 wounded and prisoners at war, amounting to above ^.34,000. 
 
 * See p. 364. 
 
 f This was the case of Mr. Brindley, who executed such great works for the Duke of Bridge- 
 water towards the end of the eighteenth century. 
 X Perhaps Mr. Evelyn knew the author. 
 
414 [1668. 
 
 I heard S r R. Howard impeach S r W ,n Pen In the House of Lords, 
 for breaking bulk and taking away rich goods out of the E. India 
 prizes formerly taken by Lord Sandwich. 
 
 28. To London, about the purchase of Ravensbourn Mills and 
 land around it, in Upper Deptford, of one Mr. Becher. 
 
 30. We seal'd the deedes in S r Edward Thurland's chambers in y e 
 Inner Temple. I pray God bless it to me, it being a deare pennyworth, 
 but the passion Sir R. Browne had for it, and that it was contiguous to 
 our other grounds, engag'd me. 
 
 13 May. Invited by that expert Commander Capt. Cox, master of 
 y e lately-built Charles the Second, now y e best vessell of y v Fleete, 
 design'd for y e Duke of York, I went to Erith, where we had a greate 
 dinner. 
 
 16. Sir Richard Edgecome of Mount Edgecome by Plymouth, my 
 relation, came to visite me; a very virtuous and worthy Gent. 
 
 19 June. To a new play with several of my relations, " The 
 Evening Lover*," a foolish plot, and very prophane ; it afflicted me to 
 see how the stage was degenerated and polluted by y e licentious times. 
 
 July 2. S r Sam. Tuke Bart, and the lady he had married this day 
 came and bedded at night at rny house, many friends accompanying 
 the bride. 
 
 23. At the Royall Society were presented divers glossa petras and 
 other natural curiosities, found in digging to build y e Fort at Sheere- 
 nesse ; they were just the same as they bring from Malta, pretending 
 them to be vipers teeth, whereas in truth they are of a shark, as we 
 found by comparing them with one in our Repository. 
 
 3 Aug. Mr. Bramstone (son to Judge B.) my old fellow-traveller, 
 now Reader at the Middle Temple, invited me to his feast, which was 
 so very extravagant and greate as the like had not ben seene at any 
 time. There were the Duke of Ormond Privy Seal, Bedford, Belasys, 
 Halifax, and a world more of Earles and Lords 
 
 * There is no play extant with this name ; it may perhaps be a second title to one ; Mr. Evelyn 
 frequently mentions only one name of a play that has two. Or it may be Dryden's Comedy of 
 " An Evening's Love, or The Mock Astrologer," which is indeed sufficiently licentious. 
 
1668.] 415 
 
 14. His Ma tv was pleas'd to grant me a lease of a slip of ground out 
 of Brick Close, to enlarge my fore court, for w ch I now gave him 
 thanks ; then entering into other discourse, he talk'd to me of a new 
 vernish for ships instead of pitch, and of y e gilding with which his new 
 yatcht was heautified. I shew'd his Ma tv the perpetual motion sent to 
 me by Dr. Stokes from Collen ; and then came in Mons r Colbert, y< 
 French Ambassador. 
 
 19. I saw y e magnificent entrie of the French Ambass r Colbert, 
 receiv'd in y e Banquetting House. I had never seene a richer coach 
 than that which he came in to White-hall. Standing by his Ma ty at 
 dinner in the Presence, there was of that rare fruit call'd the King-pine, 
 growing in Barbados and y e West Indies, the first of them I had ever 
 seene*. His Ma tv having cut it up, was pleas'd to give me a piece off 
 his owne plate to taste of, but in my opinion it falls short of those 
 ravishing varieties of deliciousness describ'd in Capt. Ligon's History, 
 and others ; but possibly it might, or certainly was, much impair'd in 
 coming so far. It has yet a gratefull acidity, but tasts more like y e 
 quince and melon than of any other fruite he mentions. 
 
 28 Aug. Publish'd my book of " The perfection of Painting," dedi- 
 cated to Mr. Howard. 
 
 17 Sept. I entertain'd Sign' Muccinigo the Venetian Ambass 1 ", of 
 one of the noblest families of the State, this being the day of making 
 his publick entrie, setting forth from my house with severall gent 11 of 
 Venice and others in a very glorious traine. He staied with me till 
 the Earle of Anglesea and S r Cha. Cotterell (Master of the Ceremo- 
 nies) came with the King's barge to carry him to y e Tower, where the 
 gunns were fir'd at his landing; he then entered his Ma'- S coach, fol- 
 low'd by many others of y e nobility. I accompanied him to his house, 
 where there was a most noble supper to all the companie of course. 
 After y e extraordinarie compliments to me and my wife for the civilities 
 he receiv'd at my house, 1 tooke leave and return 'd. He is a very ac- 
 complish'd person. He is since Ambassador at Rome. 
 
 29. I had much discourse with Sign r Pietro Cisij, a Persian gent. 
 
 * See before, the Queen's pine 1CC1, p. 338. 
 
416 
 
 [1668. 
 
 about y e affaires of Turkey, to my greate satisfaction. I went to see 
 S r Elias Leighton's project of a cart with iron axle-trees. 
 
 Nov. 8. Being at dinner, my sister Evelyn sent for me to come up 
 to London to my continuing sick brother. 
 
 14. To London, invited to the consecration of that excellent person 
 y e Deane of Ripon, Dr.Wilkins, now made Bishop of Chester; it was 
 at Ely House, the Archbp. of Canterbury, Dr. Cosin Bishop of Dur- 
 ham, the Bishops of Ely, Salisbury, Rochester, and others officiating. 
 Dr. Tillotson preach'd. Then we went to a sumptuous dinner in y e 
 Hall, where were the Duke of Buckingham, Judges, Secretaries of 
 State, Lord Keeper, Council, Noblemen, and innumerable other com- 
 pany, who were honourers of this incomparable man, universally be- 
 loved by all who knew him. 
 
 This being y e Queene's birth-day, greate was y e gallantry at White- 
 hall, and y e night celebrated with very fine fire- works. 
 
 My poore brother continuing ill I went not from him till y e 17th, 
 when dining at y e Groom Porters I heard Sir Edw. Sutton play excel- 
 lently on y e Irish harp : he plays genteelly, but not approching my 
 worthy friend Mr. Clark, a gent, of Northumberland, who makes it 
 exceed lute, viol, and all y c harmony an instrument is capable of ; pity 
 'tis that it is not more in use ; but indeede to play well takes up the 
 whole man, as Mr. Clark has assur'd me who, tho' a gent, of quality 
 and parts, was yet brought up to that instrument from 5 yeares old, 
 as I remember he told me. 
 
 25. I waited on Lo. Sandwich, who presented me with the Sem- 
 brador he brought out of Spaine, shewing me his two bookes of obser- 
 vations made during his ambassy and stay at Madrid, in which were 
 several rare things he promis'd to impart to me. 
 
 2/. I din'd at my Lord Ashley's (since Earl of Shaftsbury) when y e 
 match of my niece* was propos'd for his onely sonn, in w ch my assist- 
 ance was desir'd for my Lord. 
 
 28. Dr. Patrick preached at Covent Garden on 17 Acts, 31. the 
 certainty of Christ's coming to judgement, it being Advent; a most 
 suitable discourse. 
 
 * Probably the daughter of his brother Richard of Epsom, but who married Mr. Montagu. 
 
\66S.~] 417 
 
 19 Dec. I went to see y e old play of " Cataline" acted, having ben 
 now forgotten almost 40 yeares. 
 
 20 Dec. I din'd with my Lord Cornbury at Clarendon House, now 
 bravely furnish'd, especialy with the pictures of most of our ancient 
 and modern witts, poets, philosophers, famous and learned English- 
 men ; which collection of the Chancellor's I much commended, and 
 gave his Lordship a catalogue of more to be added *. 
 
 * In a letter to the Lord Chancellor dated 18 March 1666-7, Mr. Evelyn says ; 
 
 " My Lord, y r Lp. enquires of me what pictures might be added to the Assembly of the Learned 
 and Heroic persons of England which your LP has already collected ; the designe of which I do 
 infinitely more magnifie than the most famous heads of Foreigners which do not concern the 
 glory of our Country ; and it is in my opinion the most honorable ornament, the most becoming 
 and obliging, w ch y r Lp can thinke of to adorne y r palace withall: such therefore as seem to 
 be wanting I shall range under these three heads. 
 
 The Learned. 
 Win. Hooker. 
 Dr. Sanderson. 
 Wm. Oughtred. 
 M. Philips. 
 Rog. Bacon. 
 Geo. Ripley. 
 Wm. of Occam. 
 Hadrian 4th. 
 Alex. Ales. 
 
 Politjtians. 
 Sir W. Raleigh. 
 Card 1 . Wolsey. 
 
 SOULDIERS. 
 
 Tho. Cavendish. 
 Sir Ph. Sidney. 
 E. of Essex. 
 
 " Some of which, tho' difficult to procure originals of, yet happlycopys might be found out upon 
 diligent enquiry. The rest I thinke y r Lp has already in good proportion." 
 
 Mr. Evelyn, in a letter to Mr. Pepys, dated 12 Aug. 1689, tells him that the Lord Chancellor Cla- 
 rendon had collected Portraits of very many of our great men; and puts them down promiscuously 
 as he recollected them (see vol. II. pp. 241, 242). Mr. Evelyn also there gives a list of Portraits 
 which he recommended to be added, a little different from the list contained in the preceding 
 letter to the Lord Chancellor; and remarks that " When Lord Clarendon's design of making this 
 
 \ For an account of her see Ballard's Learned Ladies. There is a very scarce volume of Latin Poems by 
 her printed at Prague, 1606. Mr. Evelyn mentions her in his Numismata. She is much celebrated by the 
 writers of her time. 
 
 VOL. I. 3 H 
 
 Sir Hen. Savell. 
 Abp. of Armagh. 
 Dr. Harvey. 
 Sir H. Wotton. 
 Sir T. Bodley. 
 G. Buchanan. 
 Jo. Barclay. 
 Ed. Spencer. 
 Wm. Lilly. 
 
 Sir Fra. Walsingham. 
 E. of Leicester. 
 
 Sir Fra. Drake. 
 Sir J. Hawkins. 
 Sir Martin Frobisher. 
 
 Ven. Bede. 
 
 Jo. Duns Scotus. 
 
 Alcuinus. 
 
 Ridle - V ' } martyrs. 
 Latimer, J 
 
 Roger Ascham. 
 
 Sir J. Cheke. 
 
 Lady's /^ uz ' ^ oan Weston %, 
 <- Jane Grey. 
 
 Sir T. Smith. 
 Card. Pole. 
 
 Talbot. 
 
 Sir F. Grevill. 
 
 Hor. E. of Oxford. 
 
418 
 
 [1669, 
 
 31. I entertained my kind neighbours according to costome, giving 
 Almighty God thanks for his gracious mercys to me the past yeare. 
 
 1669. 1 Jan. Imploring His blessing for the yeare entring, I went 
 to church, where our Doctor preached on 65 Psalm 12. apposite to y e 
 season and beginning a new yeare. 
 
 3. About this time one of S r W m Pen's sonns had publish'd a blas- 
 phemous book against the Deity of our blessed Lord. 
 
 29. I went to see a tall gigantic woman, who measur'd 6 feet 10 
 inches high *, at 21 years old, born in the Low Countries. 
 
 13 Feb. I presented his Ma^ with my " Historie of the Foure Im- 
 postors ;" he told me of other like cheates. I gave my booke to Lord 
 Arlington, to whom I dedicated it. It was now that he began to tempt 
 me about writing " the Dutch War." 
 
 15. Saw Mrs. Philips's " Horace" acted againe. 
 
 18. To the Rl. Society, when Signor Malpighi, an Italian physician 
 & anatomist, sent the Societie the incomparable Historie of the Silk- 
 worme. 
 
 1 Mar. Din'd at Lord Arlington's at Goring House with the 
 Bishop of Hereford. 
 
 4. To the Council of the R. Society, about disposing my Lord 
 Howard's Librarie, now given to us. 
 
 16. To London, to place Mr. Christopher Wase about my Lord Ar- 
 lington. 
 
 18. I went with Lord Howard of Norfolk to visit S r W' n Ducie 
 at Charlton, where we din'd ; the servants made our coachmen so 
 drunk that they both fell off their boxes on the heath, where we were 
 fain to leave them, and were driven to London by two servants of 
 my Lord's. This barbarous custom of making the masters welcome 
 by intoxicating the servants had now the second time happen'd to my 
 coachman. 
 
 collection was known, every body who had any of the portraits, or could purchase them at any 
 price, strove to make their court by presenting them. By this means he got many excellent pieces 
 of Vandyke, and other originals by Lely and other the best of our modern masters." (Ibid, 
 p. 244.) 
 
 * A few years ago there was living in England a gentlewoman who was 7 feet 5 inches high. 
 She died about the age of 27. (1816.) 
 
1069-1 
 
 419 
 
 My sonn came finally from Oxon. 
 
 2 April. Din'd at Mr. Treasurer's, where was (with many noble- 
 men) Col. Titus of the bed-chamber, author of y e famous piece against 
 Cromwell, " Killing no Murder." 
 
 I now plac'd Mr. Wase with Mr. Williamson, Secretary to y e Secre- 
 tary of State, and Clerk of y e Papers. 
 
 14. I din'd with the Abp. of Canterbury at Lambeth, and saw the 
 Library, which was not very considerable. 
 
 19 May. At a Council of the R. Society our grant was finish'd, in 
 w ch his Ma ty gives us Chelsey Colledge and some land about it. It was 
 order'd that 5 should be a quorum for a Council. The Vice-President 
 was then sworn for y e first time, and it was propos'd how we should 
 receive the Prince of Tuscany, who desir'd to visit the Society. 
 
 20. This evening at 10 o'clock was borne my third daughter, who 
 was baptized on the 25 th by the name of Susanna. 
 
 3 June. Went to take leave of Lord Howard, going Ambass r to 
 Morocco. Dined at Lord Arlington's, where were the Earle of Berk- 
 shire, L d S' John, Sir Robert Howard, & Sir R. Holmes. 
 
 1 0. Came my Lord Cornbury, S r William Poultny, and others, to 
 visite me. I went this evening to London, to carry Mr. Pepys to my 
 brother Rich d , now exceedingly afflicted with the stone, who had ben 
 successfully cut, and carried the stone as big as a tennis-ball, to shew 
 him and encourage his resolution to go thro' the operation. 
 
 30. My wife went a journey of pleasure down the river as far as y e 
 Sea, with Mrs. Howard, and her daughter the Maid of Honour, and 
 others, amongst whom that excellent creature Mrs. Blagge. 
 
 7 July. I went towards Oxford ; lay at little Wycomb. — 8. At 
 Oxford. 
 
 9. In the morning was celebrated the Encenia of the New Theater, 
 so magnificently built by the munificence of Dr. Gilbert Sheldon, Abp. 
 of Canterbury, in which was spent ^.25,000, as Sir Chr r Wren, the 
 architect, (as I remember) told me ; and yet it was never seene by the 
 benefactor, my Lord Abp. having told me that he never did nor ever 
 would see it. It is in truth a fabrick comparable to any of this kind of 
 former ages, and doubtless exceeding any of the present, at this Univer- 
 
420 
 
 [1669. 
 
 sity does for Colledges, Libraries, Scholes, Students, and order, all the 
 Universities in the world. To the Theater is added the famous Shel- 
 donian Printing-house. This being at the Act and the first time of 
 opening the Theater (Acts being formerly kept in St. Mary's church, 
 which might be thought indecent, that being a place set apart for the 
 immediate worship of God, and was the inducement for building this 
 noble pile) it was now resolv'd to keep the present Act in it, and cele- 
 brate its dedication with the greatest splendor and formalitie that might 
 be, and therefore drew a world of strangers and other companie to the 
 University from all parts of y e nation. 
 
 The Vice Chancellor, Heads of Houses, and Doctors, being seated 
 in magisterial seates, the Vice Chancellor's chaire and deske, Proctors, 
 &c. cover'd with Brocatall (a kind of brocade) and cloth of gold ; the 
 Universitie Register read the founder's grant and gift of it to the Uni- 
 versitie for their scolastic exercises upon these solemn occasions. Then 
 follow'd Dr. South, the Universitie's Orator, in an eloquent speech, 
 which was very long, and not without some malicious and indecent 
 reflections on the Royal Society, as underminers of the University, 
 which was very foolish and untrue, as well as unseasonable. But, to let 
 that pass from an ill natur'd man, the rest was in praise of the Arch- 
 bishop and the ingenious architect. This ended, after loud musiq from 
 the corridor above, where an organ was plac'd, there follow'd divers 
 panegyric speeches both in prose and verse, interchangeably pronounc'd 
 by the young students plac'd in the rostrums, in Pindarics, Eclogues, 
 Heroics, &c. mingled with excellent musiq, vocal and instrumental, to 
 entertain the ladies and the rest of the company. A speech was then 
 made in praise of academical learning. This lasted from 11 in the 
 morning till 7 a t night, which was concluded with ringing of bells and 
 universal joy and feasting. 
 
 10. The next day began the more solemn Lectures in all y e Faculties, 
 which were perform'd in their several scholes, where all the Inceptor 
 Doctors did their exercises, the Professors having first ended their read- 
 ing. The assembly now return'd to the Theater, where the Terras 
 Jilius (the Universitie JBuffoone ) entertain'd the auditorie with a tedious, 
 abusive, sarcastical rhapsodie, most unbecoming the gravity of the 
 
1669-1 
 
 421 
 
 Universitie, and that so grossly, that unlesse it be suppress'd, it will be 
 of ill consequence, as I afterwards plainly express'd my sense of it both 
 to y c Vice Chancellor and severall heads of houses, who were perfectly 
 asham'd of it, and resolv'd to take care of it in future. The old face- 
 tious way of raillying upon the questions was left off, falling wholy 
 upon persons, so that 'twas rather licentious lyeing and railing than 
 genuine and noble witt. In my life I was never witness© of so shame- 
 full entertainment. After this ribauldry, the Proctors made their 
 speeches. Then began y n Musick Act, vocal and instrumental, above 
 in y e ballustrade corridore opposite to the Vice Chancellor's seate. Then 
 Dr. Wallis, the Mathematical Professor, made his Oration, and created 
 one Doctor of Musiq according to the usual ceremonies of gowne (which 
 was of white damask), cap, ring, kisse, &c. Next follow'd y e Disputa- 
 tions of the Inceptor Doctors in Medicine, the Speech of their Professor 
 Dr. Hyde, and so in course their respective creations. Then disputed 
 the Inceptors of Law, the Speech of their Professor, and creation. 
 Lastly, Inceptors in Theologie : Dr. Compton (brother to the Earle of 
 Northampton) being junior, began with greate modesty and applause ; 
 so the rest. After w ch Dr. Tillotson, Dr. Sprat, &c. and then Dr. 
 Allestree's speech, y e King's Professor, and their respective creations. 
 Last of all the Vice Chancellor, shutting up the whole in a panegyrical 
 oration celebrating their benefactor and the rest, apposite to the 
 occasion. 
 
 Thus was the Theater dedicated by the scholastic exercises in all the 
 Faculties with greate solemnity ; and the night, as y e former, enter- 
 taining the new Doctors friends in feasting and musiq. 1 was invited 
 by Dr. Barlow, the worthy and learned Provost of Queene's Coll. 
 
 11. The Act Sermon was this forenoon preach'd by Dr. Hall in St. 
 Maries in an honest practical discourse against Atheisme. In the after- 
 noone the Church was so crowded, that not coming early I could not 
 approch to heare. 
 
 12. Monday. Was held the Divinity Act in the Theater againe, 
 when proceeded 17 Doctors, in all Faculties some. 
 
 13. I din'd at the Vice-Chancellor's, and spent the afternoone in 
 seeing the rarities of the publick libraries, and visiting y e noble marbles 
 
422 [1669. 
 
 and inscriptions, now inserted in the walles that compasse the area of 
 the Theater, which were 150 of the most ancient and worthy treasures 
 of that kind in the learned world. Now observing that people ap- 
 proching them too neere, some idle persons began to scratch and injure 
 them, I advis'd that an hedge of holly should be planted at the foot of 
 y e wall, to be kept breast-high onely, to protect them, which the Vice- 
 Chancellor promis'd to do the next season. 
 
 14. Dr. Fell *, Dean of Christ-church and Vice-Chancellor, with 
 Dr. Allestree Professor, with Beadles and Maces before them, came to 
 visite me at my lodging. — I went to visite Lord Howard's sons at 
 Magdalen College. 
 
 15. Having two daies before had notice that the University intended 
 me the honour of Doctor-ship, I was this morning attended by the 
 Beadles belonging to the Law, who conducted me to the Theater, 
 where I found the Duke of Ormond (now Chancellor of the Universitie) 
 with y c Earl of Chesterfield and Mr. Spencer (brother to y e late Earl of 
 Sunderland). Thence we march 'd to the Convocation House, a Con- 
 vocation having ben call'd on purpose ; here, being all of us rob'd in 
 the Porch in scarlett with caps and hoods, Ave were led in by the Pro- 
 fessor of Laws and presented respectively byname, with a short eulogie, 
 to the Vice-Chancellor, who sate in the chaire, with all the Doctors 
 and Heads of Houses and Masters about y e roome, which was exceeding 
 full. Then began the Publiq Orator his speech, directed chiefly to the 
 Duke of Ormond the Chancellor, but in which I had my compliment 
 in course. This ended, we were call'd up and created Doctors according 
 to the forme, and seated by the Vice-Chancellor amongst the Doctors 
 on his right hand ; then the Vice-Chancellor made a short speech, and 
 so saluting our brother Doctors, the pageantry concluded, and the Con- 
 vocation war dissolved. So formal a creation of Honorarie Doctors had 
 seldome ben seene, that a Convocation should be call'd on purpose and 
 speeches made by the Orator ; but they could do no lesse, their Chan- 
 cellor being to receive, or rather do them, this honour. I should have 
 ben made Doctor with the rest at the Publiq Act, but their expectation 
 
 * Afterwards Bishop of Oxford. 
 
1669.] 
 
 423 
 
 of their Chancellor made them defer it. I was then led with my bro- 
 ther Doctors to an extraordinary entertainment at Dr. Mewes, Head of 
 St. John's College, and after aboundance of feasting and compliments, 
 having visited the Vice-chancellor and other Doctors, and given them 
 thanks for the honour done me, I went towards home the 16th, and got 
 as far as Windsor, and to my house y e next day. 
 
 4 Aug. I was invited by Sir Hen. Peckham to his Reading feast in 
 the Middle Temple, a pompous entertainment, where were the Abp. of 
 Canterbury, all the greate Earles and Lords, &c. I had much discourse 
 with my Lord Winchelsea, a prodigious talker ; and the Venetian 
 Ambass r . 
 
 17- To London, spending almost the intire day in surveying what 
 progresse was made in rebuilding the ruinous Citty, which now began 
 a little to revive after its sad calamitie. 
 
 20. I saw the splendid audience of y e Danish Ambass 1- in the Ban- 
 quetting House at White-hall. 
 
 23. I went to visite my most excellent and worthy neighbour the L <1 
 Bishop of Rochester at Bromely, which he was now repairing after 
 the dilapidations of the late rebellion. 
 
 2 Sept. I was this day very ill of a paine in my limbs, which conti- 
 nued most of this weeke & was increased by a visite I made to my old 
 acquaintance the Earle of Norwich at his house in Epping Forest, where 
 are many good pictures put into the wainscot of the roomes, which Mr. 
 Baker, his Lordship's predecessor there, brought out of Spaine ; espe- 
 cialy the Historie of Joseph, a picture of the pious and learned Picus 
 Mirandula, and an incomparable one of old Breugle. The gardens were 
 well understood, I mean the Potagere. I return'd late in y e evening, 
 ferrying over y e water at Greenewich. 
 
 26. To Church to give God thanks for my recovery. 
 
 Oct. 3. I received the Blessed Eucharist to my unspeakable joy. 
 
 21. To y e R. Society, meeting for the first time after a long recesse, 
 during Vacation, according to custome ; where was read a description 
 of the prodigious Eruption of Mount Etna ; and our English Itinerant 
 presented an account of his autumnal perigrination about England, for 
 which we hired him, bringing dried fowls, fish, plants, animals, &c. 
 
424 
 
 [l6>. 
 
 26. My deare brother continued extreamely full of paine, the Lord 
 be gracious to him ! 
 
 Nov. 3. This being the day of meeting for the poore, we dined 
 neighbourly together. 
 
 25. I heard an excellent discourse by Dr. Patrick on the resurrec- 
 tion ; & afterwards visited the Countesse of Kent, my kindswoman. 
 
 8 Dec. To London, upon y e second edition of my " Sylva," which I 
 presented to the Royal Society. 
 
 1670. Feb. 6. D r John Breton, M r of Emanuel Coll. in Cambridge, 
 (unkle to our Viccar,) preached on 1 John 27, " whose shoe latchet I 
 am not worthy to unloose, &c." describing the various fashions of shoos 
 or sandals worn by y e Jewes & other nations : of y e ornaments of the 
 feete : how greate persons had servants y l tooke them off when they 
 came to their houses, & bare them after them : by which pointing the 
 dignitie of o r Saviour, when such a person as S f John Baptist acknow- 
 ledges his unworthinesse even of that meane office. The lawfulnesse, 
 decentnesse, & necessitie, of subordinate degrees & ranks of men & ser- 
 vants, as well in y e Church as State: against y e late levellers & others of 
 that dangerous rabble who would have all alike. 
 
 3 Mar. Finding my brother [Richard] in such exceeding torture, 
 and that he now began to fall into convulsion fits, I solemnly set y e 
 next day apart to beg of God to mitigate his sufferings and prosper the 
 onely meanes which yet remained for his recovery, he being not only 
 much wasted but exceedingly and all along averse from being cut (for 
 the stone) ; but when he at last consented, and it came to y e operation 
 and all things prepar'd, his spirit and resolution failed. 
 
 6. D r Patrick preached in Covent Garden church. I participated of 
 the blessed Sacrament, recommending to God the deplorable condition 
 of my deare brother, who was almost in y e last agonies of death. I 
 watched late with him this night. It pleased God to deliver him out of 
 this miserable life, towards five o'clock this Moneday morning, to my 
 unspeakeable griefe. He was a brother whom I most dearly lov'd for his 
 many virtues ; but two yeares younger than myself, a sober, prudent, 
 worthy gentleman. He had married a greate fortune, and left one onely 
 daughter, and a noble seate at Woodcote neere Epsom. His body was 
 
16*70.] 425 
 
 open'd, and a stone taken out of his bladder, not much bigger than a 
 nutmeg. I returned home on the 8th, full of sadnesse, & to bemoane 
 my losse. 
 
 20. A stranger preached at the Savoy French Church: the Liturgie 
 of the Ch: of England being now used altogether, as translated into 
 French by Dr. Durell. 
 
 21. We all accompanied the corpse of my dear brother to Epsom 
 church, where he was decently interr'd in y e chapell belonging to 
 Woodcote House. A greate number of friends and gentlemen of the 
 country attended, about 20 coaches and six horses, and innumerable 
 people. 
 
 22. I went to Westm', where in the House of Lords I saw his 
 Ma tv sit on his throne, but without his robes, all the Peeres sitting 
 with their hatts on ; the business of the day being the divorce of my 
 Lord Rosse. Such an occasion and sight had not ben seene in England 
 since the time of Hen. VIII.* 
 
 5 May. To London, concerning the office of Latine Secretary to 
 his Ma tv , a place of more honor and dignitie than profit, the revertion 
 of which he had promised me. 
 
 21. Came to visite me Mr. Henry Savill, and S r Cha s Scarborow. 
 
 26. Receiving a letter from Mr. Philip Howard, Lord Almoner 
 to the Queen that Mons r Evelin, first physitian to Madame (who 
 was now come to Dover to visit the King her brother), was come to 
 towne, greately desirous to see me, but his stay so short that he could 
 not come to me, I went with my brother to meete him at the Tower, 
 
 * " When there was a project, 1669, for getting a divorce for the King, to facilitate it, there 
 was brought into the House of Lords a bill for dissolving the marriage of Lord Rosse, on account 
 of adultery, and to give him leave to marry again. This bill, after great debates, passed by the 
 plurality of only two votes, and that by the great industry of the Lord's friends, as well as the 
 Duke's enemies, who carried it on chiefly in hopes it might be a precedent, and inducement for the 
 King to enter the more easily into their late proposals ; nor were they a little encouraged therein, 
 when they saw the King countenance and drive on the bill in Lord Rosse's favour. Of 18 Bishops 
 that were in the House, only two voted for the bill, of which one voted through age, and one was 
 reputed a Socinian." — These, in a note, are said to be Dr. Cosin, Bishop of Durham, and Dr. 
 Wilkins, Bishop of Chester. 
 
 t Afterwards created Cardinal. 
 
 VOL. I. 3 I 
 
426 [i6jo. 
 
 where he was seeing the magazines and other curiosities, having never 
 before ben in England : we renew'd our alliance and friendship, with 
 much regret on both sides that he being to returne towards Dover that 
 evening, we could not enjoy one another any longer. How this French 
 familie, Ivelin, of Evelin in Normandy, a very ancient and noble 
 house, is grafted into our Pedigree, see in y e collection brought from 
 Paris 1650. 
 
 16 June. I went with some friends to y e Bear Garden, where was 
 cock-fighting, dog-fighting, beare and bull baiting, it being a famous 
 day for all these butcherly sports, or rather barbarous cruelties. The 
 bulls did exceeding well, but the Irish wolfe-dog exceeded, which was a 
 tall greyhound, a stately creature indeede, who heate a cruel I mastiff. 
 One of the bulls toss'd a dog full into a lady's lap, as she sate in one of 
 y e boxes at a considerable height from the arena. Two poore dogs 
 were kill'd, and so all ended with the ape on horseback, and I most 
 heartily weary of the rude and dirty pastime, which I had not seene, 
 I think, in twenty yeares before. 
 
 18. Dined at Goring House, whither my Lo. Arlington carried me 
 from White-hall with the Marquis of Worcester; there we found Lo. 
 Sandwich, Viscount Stafford [since beheaded], the Lieutenant of y e 
 Tower, and others. After dinner my Lord communicated to me his 
 Ma tys desire that I would undertake to write the History of our late 
 War with the Hollanders, which I had hitherto declin'd ; this I found 
 was ill-taken, and that I should disoblige his Ma ty , who had made 
 choice of me to do him this service, and if I would undertake it I should 
 have all the assistance the Secretary's office and others could give me, 
 with other encouragements, which I could not decently refuse. 
 
 Lord Stafford rose from table in some disorder because there were 
 roses stuck about the fruite when the discert was set on the table ; such 
 an antipathie, it seems, he had to them as once Lady Selenger* also had 
 and to that degree, that, as S r Kenelm Digby tells us, laying but a rose 
 upon her cheeke when she was asleepe, it rais'd a blister ; but S r Ke- 
 nelm was a teller of strange things. 
 
 * St. Leger. 
 
16/0.] 427 
 
 24. Came the Earle of Huntingdon and Countesse, with y e L d She- 
 rardj to visite us. 
 
 29. To London, in order to my niece's marriage, Mary, daughter to 
 my late brother Richard, of Woodcot, with y e eldest son of Mr. Attor- 
 ney Mountague, which was celebrated at Southampton House Chapell, 
 after which a magnificent entertainment, feast and dauncing, dinner 
 and supper, in the great roome there, but the bride was bedded at my 
 sister's lodging in Drurie lane. 
 
 6 July. Came to visite me Mr. Stanhope, Gent. Usher to her Ma- 
 jestie, and unkle to the Earle of Chesterfield, a very fine man, with my 
 Lady Hutcheson. 
 
 19. I accompanied my worthy friend that excellent man S 1 Rob 
 Murray, with Mr. Slingsby, Master of the Mint, to see y e latter's seate 
 and estate at Burrow Green in Cambridgeshire, he desireing our ad- 
 vice for placeing a new house, which he was resolv'd to build* ; we set 
 out in a coach and six horses with him and his lady, din'd about 
 midway at one Mr. Turner's, where we found a very noble dinner, 
 venison, musiq, and a circle of country ladies and their gallants. 
 After dinner we proceeded and came to Burrow Green that night. 
 This had ben the ancient seate of y e Cheekes (whose daughter Mr. 
 Slingsby married), formerly Tutor to K. Edw. VI. The old house 
 large and ample, and built for ancient hospi tali tie, ready to fall down 
 with age, plac'd in a dirty hole, a stifFe clay, no water, next an ad- 
 joyning church-yard, and with other inconveniences. We pitch'd on 
 a spot of rising ground, adorn'd with venerable woods, a dry and sweete 
 prospect East and West, and fit for a parke, but no running water ; 
 at a mile distance from the old house. 
 
 20. We went to dine at Lord Allington's f , who had newly built 
 a house of greate cost, I believe little less than ^20,000^. His archi- 
 
 * It is probable that he did not build, and that after his misfortunes, which will be mentioned 
 hereafter, it was sold. Mr. Lysons, in his Britannia, under Cambridgeshire, says, that what remains 
 of an old brick mansion, is now a farm-house. 
 
 f Since Constable of the Tower. 
 
 { At Hoiseheath. The Allingtons seated here before 1239 : William created an Irish Peer, by 
 the title of Lord Allington, in 1646. Mr. Lysons says the building cost ^70,000. and with the 
 
428 [1670. 
 
 tect was Mr. Pratt. It is seated in a parke, with a sweete prospect and 
 stately avenue, but water still defective ; the house has also its infir- 
 mities. Went back to Mr. Slingsby's. 
 
 22. We rod out to see the greate meere or levell of recover'd fen 
 lande, not far off. In the way we met Lord Arlington going to his 
 house in Suffolk, accompanied with Count Ogniati the Spanish Mi- 
 nister, and S r Bernard Gascoigne; he was very importunate with me to 
 go with him to Euston, being but fifteen miles distant, but in reguard 
 of my companie I could not. So passing thro' Newmarket, we alighted 
 to see his Ma tie " house there, now new building ; the arches of the 
 cellars beneath are well turn'd by Mr. Samuel the architect, the rest 
 meane enough and hardly fit for a hunting house. Many of the roomes 
 above had the chimnies plac'd in y e angles and corners, a mode now 
 introduc'd by his Ma^ w ch I do at no hand approve of. I predict it 
 will spoile many noble houses and roomes if follow'd. It does onely 
 well in very small and trifling roomes, but takes from the state of 
 greater. Besides this house is plac'd in a dirty streete, without any 
 court or avenue, like a common one, whereas it might, and ought to 
 have ben built at either end of the towne, upon the very carpet where 
 the sports are celebrated ; but it being the purchase of an old wretched 
 house of my Lord Thomond's, his Ma tv was persuaded to set it on that 
 foundation, the most improper imaginable for a house of sport and 
 pleasure *. 
 
 We went to see the stables and fine horses, of w ch many were here 
 kept at a vast expense, with all the art and tendernesse imaginable. 
 
 Being ariv'd at some meeres, we found Lord Wotton and Sir John 
 Kivietf about their draining engines, having it seemes undertaken to do 
 wonders on a vast piece of marsh ground they had hired of S r Thomas 
 Chichley (Ma r of y e Ordnance.) They much pleas'd themselves with 
 the hopes of a rich harvest of hemp and cole seed, w ch was the crop 
 
 estate was sold in 1687 to John Bromley, esq. for .§£42,000. He expended ££30,000 more on the 
 building. His grandson was created Lord Montford in 1741. In 1776 the second Lord Montford 
 sold the estate, the house being sold in 1777 for the materials, to be pulled down. Lysons, Cam- 
 bridgeshire, p. 216, 217- 
 
 * It was sold by the Crown in 1816. t Of him see before, p. 401. 
 
1670.] 429 
 
 expected. Here we visited the engines and mills both for wind and 
 water, draining it thro' two rivers or grafts cut by hand and capable of 
 carrying considerable barges, which went thwart one the other, dis- 
 charging the water into y e sea. Such at this spot had ben the former 
 winter, it was astonishing to see it now drie and so rich that weeds 
 grew on the bankes almost as high as a man and horse. Here my 
 Lord and his partner had built 2 or 3 roomes with Flanders white 
 bricks, very hard. One of the greate engines was in the kitchen, where 
 I saw the fish swim up, even to the very chimney hearth, by a small 
 cut thro' the roome, and running within a foote of y u very fire. 
 
 Having after dinner rid about that vast levell, pester'd with heate 
 and swarmes of gnatts, we return'd over New-market Heath, the way 
 being mostly a sweet turfe and down, like Salisbury Plaine, the jockies 
 breathing their fine barbs and racers, and giving them their heates. 
 
 23 July. We return'd from Burrow Green to London, staying some 
 time at Audley End to see that fine palace. It is indeede a cheerefull 
 piece of Gotic building, or rather antico modemo, but placed in an ob- 
 scure bottome. The cellars and galleries are very stately. It has a 
 river by it, a pretty avenue of limes, and in a parke. 
 
 This is in Saffron Walden parish, famous for that usefull plant, with 
 w dl all y e countrie is cover'd. 
 
 Dining at Bishop Stortford, we came late to London. 
 
 5 Aug. There was sent me by a neighbour a servant maid, who in 
 the last moneth, as she was sitting before her mistress at work, felt a 
 stroke on her arme a little above the wrist for some height, the smart of 
 which, as if struck by another hand, caus'd her to hold her arme awhile 
 till somewhat mitigated, but it put her into a kind of convulsion or rather 
 hysteric fit. A gentleman coming casually in, looking on her arme, 
 found that part poudred with red crosses, set in most exact and won- 
 derfull order, neither swelled nor depressed, about this shape, 
 
 x 
 
 x x 
 xxx 
 x x 
 x 
 
430 [i6;g. 
 
 not seeming to i)e any way made by artifice, of a reddish colour, not 
 so red as blood, the skin over them smooth, the rest of the arme livid 
 and of a mortified hue, with certaine prints as it were of the stroke of 
 fingers. This had happened three severall times in July, at about 10 
 (lavs intervall, the crosses beginning to weare out, but the successive 
 ones set in other different, yet uniforme order. The maide seemed 
 verv modest, and came from London to Deptford with her mistress to 
 avoid the discourse and importunity of curious people. She made no 
 gaine by it, pretended no religious fancies, but seemed to be a plaine, 
 ordinary, silent, working wench, somewhat fat, short, and high co- 
 loured. She told me divers divines and physitians had seene her, but 
 were unsatisfied ; that she had taken some remedies against her fits, 
 but they did her no good ; she had never before had any fits ; once 
 since she seem'd in her sleepe to hear one say to her that she should 
 tamper no more with them, nor trouble herselfe with any thing that 
 happen'd, but put her trust in y e merits of Christ onely. 
 
 This is the substance of what she told me, and what I saw and cu- 
 riously examin'd. I was formerly acquainted with the impostorious 
 Nunns of Loudune in France, which made such noise amongst the Pa- 
 pists, I therefore thought this worth the notice. I remember Mons' 
 Monconys (that curious traveller and a Roman Catholic) was by no 
 means satisfied with y e stigmata of those Nunns, because they were 
 so shy of letting him scrape the letters, which were Jesus, Maria. 
 Joseph, (as I think) observing they began to scale off with it, whereas 
 this poore wench was willing to submit to any trial ; so that I profess 
 I know not what to think of it, nor dare I pronounce it any thing su- 
 pernaturall. 
 
 26. At Windsor I supp'd with the Duke of Monmouth ; and the 
 next day, invited by Lord Arlington, din'd with the same Duke and 
 divers Lords. After dinner my Lord and I had a conference of more 
 than an houre alone in his bedchamber, to engage me in the Historic 
 I shew'd him something that I had drawn up, to his greate satisfaction, 
 and he desir'd me to shew it to the Treasurer. 
 
 28. One of the Canons preach'd, then followed the offering of the 
 Knights of the Order, according to custom ; first the poore Knights in 
 
1670.] 431 
 
 procession, then the Canons in their formalities, the Deane and Chan- 
 cellor, then his Ma'> (the Soveraine), then the Duke of York, Prince 
 Rupert, lastly the Earle of Oxford, being all the Knights that were 
 then at Court. 
 
 I din'd with the Treasurer, and consulted with him what pieces 1 
 was to add; in the afternoone his Ma tv tooke me aside into the balcpnie 
 over the terrace, extreamely pleas'd with what had ben told him I had 
 begun in order to his commands, and enjoyning me to proceede vigo- 
 rously in it. He told me he had ordered y e Secretaries of State to give 
 me all necessary assistance of papers and particulars relating to it, and 
 enjoyning me to make it a little keene, for that the Hollanders had very 
 unhandsomely abus'd him in their pictures, books, and libells. 
 
 Windsor was now going to be repaired, being exceedingly ragged 
 and ruinous. Prince Rupert, the Constable, had begun to trim up the 
 keepe or high round tower, and handsomely adorn'd his hall with fur- 
 niture of armes, which was very singular, by so disposing y e pikes, 
 muskets, pistols, bandeliers, holsters, drums, back, breast, and head 
 pieces, as was very extraordinary. Thus those huge steepe stayres 
 ascending to it had y e walls invested with this martial furniture all new 
 and bright, so disposing y e bandeliers, holsters, and drums, as to re- 
 present festoons, and that without any confusion, trophy like. From 
 the hall we went into his bedchamber, and ample roomes hung with 
 tapissrie, curious and effeminate pictures ; so extreamely different from 
 the other, which presented nothing but warr and horror. 
 
 The King pass'd most of his time in hunting the stag, and walking 
 in the parke, which he was now planting with rows of trees. 
 
 13. To visite S r Rich' 1 Lashford, my kinsman, and Mr. Charles 
 Howard at his extraordinary garden at Dipden. 
 
 15. I went to visit Mr. Arthur Onslow at West Clandon, a pretty 
 dry seate on y e Dowries, where we din'd in his greate roome. 
 
 17. To visit Mr. Hussev*, who being neere Wotton, lives in a 
 sweete vally deliciously watered. 
 
 23. To Alburie to see how that garden proceeded, which I found 
 exactly don to the designe and plot I had made, with the crypta thro' 
 
 * At Sutton in Shere. 
 
432 
 
 [16/0. 
 
 the mountaine in the park, 30 perches in length. Such a Pausilippe * 
 is no where in England besides. The canall was now digging, and the 
 vineyard planted. 
 
 14 October. I spent the whole afternoon in private with the Trea- 
 surer, who put into my hands those secret pieces and transactions con- 
 cerning the Dutch war, and particularly the expedition of Bergen, in 
 which he had himselfe the cheife part, and gave me instructions, till 
 the King arriving from New-market we both went up into his bed- 
 chamber. 
 
 21. Din'd with the Treass r , and after dinner we were shut up to- 
 gether. I receiv'd other [further] advises, and ten paper bookes of 
 dispatches and treaties ; to return which againe I gave a note under my 
 hand to Mr. Jos. Williamson, Master of the Paper Office. 
 
 31. I was this morning fifty yeares of age : The Lord teach me to 
 number my daies so, as to apply them to his glory. Amen. 
 
 4 Nov. Saw the Prince of Orange newly come to see the King his 
 uncle ; he has a manly, courageous, wise countenance, resembling his 
 mother and the Duke of Gloucester, both deceas'd. 
 
 I now also saw that famous beauty, but in my opinion of a childish, 
 simple, and baby face, Mademoiselle Querouaille -\, lately Maide of 
 Hon r to Madame, and now to be so to y e Queene. 
 
 23. Din'd with the Earle of Arlington, where was the Venetian 
 Ambassador, of whom I now tooke solemne leave, now on his returne. 
 There were also Lords Howard, Wharton, Windsor, and divers other 
 greate persons. 
 
 24. I din'd with y e Treas 1 , where was y e Earle of Rochester, a very 
 prophane wit. 
 
 15 December. It was the thickest and darkest fogg on the Thames 
 that was ever known in y e memory of man, and I happened to be in 
 
 * A word adopted by Mr. Evelyn for a subterranean passage, from the famous grot of Pau- 
 syllipo, at Naples. 
 
 t Henrietta, the King's sister, married to Philip Duke of Orleans, was then on a visit here. 
 Madame Querouaille came over in her train, on purpose to entice Charles into an union with 
 Lewis XIV. which unhappily succeeded but too well. She became the King's mistress, was made 
 Dutchess of Portsmouth, and was his favourite till his death. See pp. 442, 443. 
 
16'71.] -i33 
 
 the very midst of it. 1 supped with Mons r Zulestein, late Governor 
 to y e late Prince of Orange. 
 
 1671- 10 Jan. Mr. Bohun, my son's tutor, had hen 5 yeares in 
 my house, and now Batchelor of Laws and Fellow of New Coll. went 
 from me to Oxford to reside there, having well and faithfully per- 
 form'd his charge. 
 
 18. This day I first acquainted his Ma ty with that incomparahle 
 young man Gihhon*, whom I had lately met with in an ohscure place 
 
 * Usually known by the name of Gibbons; celebrated for his exquisite carving. His principal 
 performance is said to be at Petworth. The following account of him appears in Walpole's Cata- 
 logue of Painters, and incidental notes of other Artists, collected by Geo. Vertue. 
 
 " Grading Gibbon. — An original genius, a citizen of nature. There is no instance before him of 
 a man who gave to wood the loose and airy lightness of flowers, and chained together the various 
 productions of the elements with the free disorder natural to each species. It is uncertain whe- 
 ther he was born in Holland or in England ; it is said that he lived in Bell Savage Court, Ludgate 
 hill, and was employed by Betterton in decorating the Theatre in Dorset Garden. He lived after- 
 wards at Deptford, in the same house with a musician, where the beneficent and curious Mr. Evelyn 
 found and patronised both. This gentleman, Sir P. Lely, and Bap. May, who was something of an 
 Architect himself, recommended Gibbons to Cha. II. who was loo indolent to search for genius, and 
 too indiscriminate in his bounty to confine it to merit, but was always pleased when it was brought 
 home to him. He gave the artist a place in the Board of Works, and employed his hand on ornaments 
 of most taste in his palaces, particularly at Windsor. Gibbon, in gratitude, made a present of 
 his own bust in wood to Mr. Evelyn, who kept it at his house in Do\er street. The piece that had 
 struck so good a judge was a large carving in wood of St. Stephen stoned, long preserved in the 
 sculptor's own house, and afterwards purchased and placed by the Duke of Chandos at Cannons." 
 
 Mr. Walpole is not quite correct in this account. Gibbon, when young, was found by Mr. 
 Evelyn in a small house at Deptford, working on that famous piece from Tintoret, here said to re- 
 present the stoning of St. Stephen, and which seems from Mr. Evelyn's account, to have been his 
 first performance of consequence. It must have been afterwards that he lived in Belle Sauvage 
 Yard, and that he worked on the Theatre in Dorset Gardens. Mr. Evelyn does not mention a 
 musician, and says there was only an old woman with him in the house at Deptford. It was Mr. 
 Evelyn who recommended him to the King, to Mr. May the architect, and to Sir Christopher 
 Wren. Of the bust nothing is known at Wotton. 
 
 Copy from an original Letter addressed by G. Gibbon to Mr. Evelyn, now at Wotton. 
 Honred 
 
 S r I wold beg the fa"ver wen you see Si' Joseff Williams (Williamson) again you wold be pleasd 
 to speack to him that hee wold get me to Carve his Ladis sons hous my Lord Kildare for I onder- 
 stand it will (be) verry considerabell ar If you haen Acquantans wich my Lord to speack to him his 
 sealf and 1 shall for Ev're be obliaged to You I wold speack to S ir Josef my sealf but I knouw it 
 wold do better from you S r youre Most umbell 
 
 Sarvant 
 
 Lond. 23 Mar. IGS'2. G. Gikison. 
 
 Mr. Evelyn wrote to Lord Kildare iccommending Mr. Gibbon ; and to Mr. Gibbon with the letter. 
 VOL. I. 3 K 
 
434 
 
 [1671- 
 
 by meere accident as I was walking neere a poore solitary thatched 
 house, in a field in our parish, neere Says Court. I found him shut 
 in ; but looking in at the window I perceiv'd him carving that large 
 cartoon or crucifix of Tintoret, a copy of which I had myselfe brought 
 from Venice, where the original painting remaines. I asked if I 
 might enter ; he open'd the door civilly to me, and I saw him about 
 such a work as for y e curiosity of handling, drawing, and studious 
 exactnesse, I never had before seene in all my travells. I questioned 
 him why he worked in such an obscure and lonesome place ; he told 
 me it was that he might apply himselfe to his profession without inter- 
 ruption, and wondred not a little how I had found him out. I asked 
 if he was unwilling to be made knowne to some greate man, for that I 
 believed it might turn to his profit ; he answer'd he was yet but a be- 
 ginner, but would not be sorry to sell off that piece ; on demanding the 
 price, he said 1001. In good earnest the very frame was worth the 
 money, there being nothing in nature so tender and delicate as the 
 flowers and festoons about it, and yet the worke was very strong ; in 
 the piece were more than 100 figures of men, &c. I found he was 
 likewise musical, and very civil, sober, and discreete in his discourse. 
 There was onely an old woman in the house. So desiring leave to 
 visite him sometimes, I went away. 
 
 Of this young artist, together with my manner of finding him out, 
 I acquainted the King, and begg'd that he would give me leave to 
 bring him and his worke to Whitehall, for that I would adventure my 
 reputation with his Ma ty that he had never seene any thing approch it, 
 and that he would be exceedingly pleased, and employ him. The 
 King said he would himselfe go see him. This was the first notice 
 his Majestie ever had of Mr. Gibbon. 
 
 20. The King came to me in the Queen's withdrawing roome from 
 the circle of ladies, to talk with me as to what advance I had made in 
 the Dutch Historic I din'd with the Tress r , and afterwards we went 
 to the Secretarie's Office, where we conferred about divers particulars. 
 
 21. I was directed to go to S r Geo. Downing, who having ben a 
 publick minister in Holland at the beginning of y e war, was to give 
 me light in some material passages. 
 
1671.] 435 
 
 This yeare the weather was so wet, stormy, and unseasonable, as 
 had not ben knowne in many yeares. 
 
 9 Feb. I saw the greate ball danc'd by the Queene and distin- 
 guished ladies at White-hall Theater. Next day was acted there the 
 famous play call'd " The Siege of Granada*," two days acted succes- 
 sively ; there were indeede very glorious sceanes and perspectives, the 
 worke of Mr. Streeter, who well understands it. 
 
 19. This day din'd with me Mr. Surveyor Dr. Chr r Wren, and Mr. 
 Pepys, Cleark of the Acts, two extraordinary ingenious and knowing 
 persons, and other friends. I carried them to see the piece of carving 
 w ch I had recommended to the King. 
 
 25. Came to visit me one of the Lords Commiss rs of Scotland for 
 the Union. 
 
 28. The Treasurer acquainted me that his Ma'>' was graciously 
 pleas'd to nominate me one of the Council of Forraine Plantations, and 
 give me a salary of 500/. p r . aim. to encourage me. 
 
 29. I went to thank the Treasurer, who was my greate friend and 
 loved me ; I dined with him and much company, and went thence to my 
 Lo. Arlington, Secretary of State, in whose favour I likewise was upon 
 many occasions, tho' I cultivated neither of their friendships by any 
 meane submissions. I kiss'd his Ma tvs hand on his making me one of 
 that new establish'd Council. 
 
 1 Mar. I caused Mr. Gibbon to bring to White-hall his excellent 
 piece of carving, where being come I advertis'd his Majestie, who ask'd 
 me where it was ; I told him in S r Richard Browne's (my father-in- 
 law) chamber, and that if it pleas'd his Ma ,y to appoint whither it 
 should be brought, being large and tho' of wood heavy, I wo d take 
 care for it ; " No," says the King, " shew me y e way, I'll go to Sir 
 Richard's chamber," which he immediately did, walking along the 
 entries after me ; as far as the ewrie, till he came up into the roome 
 where I also lay. No sooner was he enter'd and cast his eye on the 
 work but he was astonish'd at the curiositie of it, and having consider'd 
 it a long time and discours'd with Mr. Gibbon, whom I brought to 
 
 * " The Conquest of Granada/ ' by Dryden. 
 
436 [i6 7 i. 
 
 kisse his hand, he commanded it should he immediately carried to the 
 Queenes side to shew her. It was carried up into her bed chamber, 
 where she and the King looked on and admired it againe ; the King 
 being call'd away left us with the Queenc, believing she would have 
 bought it, it being a crucifix ; but when his Ma ty was gon, a French 
 pedling woman, one Mad. de Boord, who us'd to bring peticoates and 
 fanns, and baubles out of France to the Ladys, began to find fault with 
 severall things in the worke, which she understood no more than an 
 asse or a monkey, so as in a kind of indignation, I caused the person 
 who brought it to carry it back to the chamber, finding the Queene so 
 much govern'd by an ignorant French woman, and this incomparable 
 artist had his labour onely for his paines, which not a little displeas'd 
 me, and he was faine to send it downe to his cottage againe ; he not 
 long after sold it for ^£.80. tho' well worth ^.100. without the frame, 
 to Sir Geo. Viner. 
 
 His Ma ty ' s Surveyor, Mr. Wren, faithfully promis'd me to employ 
 him*. I having also bespoke his Ma ty for his worke at Windsor, which 
 my friend Mr. May the architect there was going to alter and repaire 
 universally ; for on the next day I had a fair opportunity of talking to 
 his Ma ty about it, in y e lobby next the Queenes side, where I presented 
 him with some sheetes of mv Historic I thence walk'd with him thro' 
 St. James's Parke to the garden, where I both saw and heard a very 
 
 familiar discourse between and Mrs. Nellie as they cal'd an 
 
 impudent comedian, she looking out of her garden on a terrace at the 
 
 top of the wall, and standing on y e greene walke under it. I 
 
 was heartily sorry at this scene. Thence the King walked to the Dut- 
 chess of Cleaveland, another lady of pleasure, and curse of our nation. 
 
 5. I dined at Greenewich, to take leave of S r Tho. Linch, going 
 Governor of Jamaica. 
 
 10. To London about passing my patent as one of the standing 
 Council for Plantations, a considerable honour, the others in y c Council 
 being cheifly Noblemen, and Officers of State. 
 
 * The carving in the Choir, &c. of St. Paul's Cathedral was executed by Gibbon, 
 f Nell Gwyn : there can be no doubt with what name to fill up these blanks . 
 
437 
 
 2 April. To S 1 Tho. Clifford the Treasurer, to condole with him on 
 the losse of his eldest son, who died at Florence. 
 
 2 May. The French King being now with a greate army of 28,000 
 men about Dunkirk, divers of the grandees of that Court, and a vast 
 number of gentlemen and cadets in fantastical habites came flocking 
 over to see our Court, and compliment his Ma tv . I was present when 
 they first were conducted into the Queenes withdrawing roome, where 
 saluted their Majesties the Dukes of Guise, Longueville, and many 
 others of the first sort. 
 
 10. Din'd at Mr. Treas 1 " 3 , where dined Mons r De Gramont and se- 
 verall French noblemen, and one Blood, that impudent bold fellow 
 who had not long before attempted to steale the imperial crowne itselfe 
 out of the Tower, pretending onely curiositie of seeing the regalia there, 
 when stabbing the keeper, tho' not mortally, he boldly went away with 
 it thro' all the guards, taken onely by the accident of his horse falling 
 down. How he came to be pardoned, and even received into favour, 
 not onely after this, but severall other exploits almost as daring both in 
 Ireland and here, I could never come to understand. Some believed he 
 became a spie of severall parties, being well with the Sectaries and En- 
 thusiasts, and did his Ma ,J services that way, which none alive could 
 do so well as he ; but it was certainely as the boldest attempt, so the 
 onely treason of this sort that was ever pardon'd. This man had not 
 onely a daring but a villainous unmercifull looke, a false countenance, 
 but very well spoken and dangerously insinuating. 
 
 11. I went to Eltham to sit as one of the Commissioners about v c 
 subsidie now given by Parliament to his Majesty. 
 
 17- Dined at Mr. Treass rs [Sir Tho. Clifford] with the Earl of 
 Arlington, Carlingford, Lord Arundel of Wardour, Lo. Almoner to 
 the Queene, a French Count, and two abbots, with several more of 
 French nobility; and now by something I had lately observed of Mr. 
 Treasurer's conversation on occasion, I suspected him a little warping 
 to Rome. 
 
 25. I dined at a feast made for me and my wife by the Trinity 
 Company for our passing a fine of the land which S r R. Browne my 
 wife's father freely gave to found and build their Colledge or Almes- 
 
438 
 
 [1671- 
 
 houses on at Deptford, it being my wife's after her father's decease. 
 It was a good and charitable worke and gift, but would have ben 
 better bestow'd on y e poore of that parish, than on the seamens 
 widows, the Trinity Comp^ being very rich, and the rest of the poore 
 of the parish exceedingly indigent. 
 
 26. The Earle of Bristol's house in Queene Street [Lincoln's Inn 
 Fields], was taken for the Comm 15 of Trade and Plantations, and fur- 
 nish'd with rich hangings of the King's. It consisted of seven roomes 
 on a floore, with a long gallery, gardens, &c. This day we met : the 
 Duke of Buckingham, Earl of Lauderdaile, Lord Culpeper, S 1 Geo. 
 Carteret Vice Chamberlaine, and myselfe, had the oathes given us 
 by the Earle of Sandwich, our President. It was, to advise and 
 counsel his Ma ty to the best of our abilities for the well governing of 
 his Forraine Plantations, &c. the forme very little differing from that 
 given to the Privy Council. We then tooke our places at the Board in 
 the Council Chamber, a very large roome furnished with atlases, mapps, 
 charts, globes, &c. Then came y e Lord Keeper, S l Orlando Bridge- 
 man, Earl of Arlington, Secretary of State, Lord Ashley, Mr. Trea- 
 surer, Sir John Trevor the other Secretary, Sir John Duncomb, Lord 
 Allington, Mr. Grey, son to y e Lord Grey, Mr. Henry Broncher, S r 
 Humfry Winch, S r John Finch, Mr. Waller, and Coll. Titus of the 
 Bedchamber, with Mr. Slingsby Secretary to the Council, and two 
 Clearks of y e Council, who had all ben sworne some dayes before. 
 Being all set, our Patent was read, and then the additional Patent, in 
 which was recited this new establishment ; then was delivered to each 
 a copy of the Patent and of instructions : after which we proceeded to 
 business. The first thino; we did was to settle the forme of a circular 
 letter to the Governors of all his Ma l > s Plantations and Territories in 
 the West Indies and Islands thereof, to give them notice to whom they 
 should apply themselves on all occasions, and to render us an account 
 of their present state and government ; but what we most insisted on 
 was to know the condition of New England, which appearing to be 
 very independent as to their regard to Old England or his Ma ty , rich 
 and strong as they now were, there were greate debates in what style 
 to write to them, for the condition of that Colony was such that they 
 
439 
 
 were able to contest with all other Plantations about them, and there 
 was feare of their breaking from all dependence on this Nation ; his 
 Ma tv therefore commended this affaire more expressly. We therefore 
 thought fit in the first place to acquaint ourselves as well as we could of 
 the state of that place, by some whom we heard of that were newly 
 come from thence, and to be informed of their present posture and con- 
 dition ; some of our Council were for sending them a menacing letter, 
 which those who better understood y c peevish and touchy humor of that 
 Colonie, were utterly against. 
 
 A letter was then read from S r Tho. Modiford, Governor of Jamaica ; 
 and then the Council brake up. 
 
 Having brought an action against one Cock for money which he had 
 receiv'd for me, it had been referred to an arbitration by the recom- 
 mendation of that excellent good man the Chief Justice Hales ; but this 
 not succeeding, I went to advise with that famous lawyer Mr. Jones, of 
 Gray's Inn, and 2J May had a trial before the Lo. Ch. Justice Hales, 
 and after the lawyers had wrangled sufficiently, it was referred to a new 
 arbitration. This was the very first suit at law that ever I had with 
 any creature, and 6 that it might be the last ! 
 
 1 June. An installation at Windsor. 
 
 6. I went to Council, where was produc'd a most exact and ample 
 information of the state of Jamaica, and of the best expedients as to 
 New England, on which there was a long debate, but at length 'twas 
 concluded that, if any, it should be only a conciliating paper at first, 
 or civil letter, till we had better information of y e present face of things, 
 since we understood they were a people almost upon the very brink of 
 renouncing any dependence on y° Crowne. 
 
 19. To a splendid dinner at the greate roome in Deptford Trinity 
 House, S r Tho. Allen chosen Master, and succeeding the Earle of 
 Craven. 
 
 20. To carry Coll. Midleton to White-hall to my Lo. Sandwich, 
 our President, for some information which he was able to give of the 
 state of the Colonie in New England. 
 
 21. To Council againe, when one Coll. Cartwright, a Nottingham- 
 shire man, (formerly in commission with Coll. Nicholls) gave us a con- 
 
440 
 
 [I6 7 l. 
 
 siderable relation of that country, on which the Council concluded that 
 in the first place a letter of amnestie should be dispatch'd. 
 
 24. Constantine Hugens, Sig r of Zulichem, that excellent learned 
 man, poet, and musitian, now neere 80 yeares of age, a vigorous, brisk 
 man, came to take leave of me before his returne into Holland with the 
 Prince, whose Secretary he was. 
 
 26. To Council, where Lo. Arlington acquainted us that it was 
 his Ma tNS proposal we should every one of us contribute 20/. towards 
 building a Council-chamber and conveniences somewhere in White-hall, 
 that his Ma tv might come and sit amongst us and heare our debates ; 
 the mony we laid out to be reimbours'd out of the contingent monies 
 
 already set apart for us, viz. 1000/. yearly. To this we unanimously 
 
 consented. There came an uncertaine bruite from Barbados of some 
 
 disorder there. On my return home I stept in at the Theater to see 
 
 the new machines for the intended scenes, which were indecde very 
 
 costly and magnificent. 
 
 29. To Council, where were letters from S r Tho. Modiford, of the 
 
 expedition and exploit of Coll. Morgan* and others of Jamaica on the 
 
 Spanish Continent at Panama. 
 
 4 July. To Council, where we drew up and agreed to a letter to be 
 
 sent to New England, and made some proposal to Mr. Gorges for his 
 
 interest in a Plantation there. 
 
 24. To Council. Mr. Surveyor brought us a plot for the building 
 
 of our Council-chamber, to be erected at the end of the Privy-garden 
 
 in White-hall. 
 
 3 Aug 1 . A full appearance at the Council. The matter in debate 
 was, whether we should send a Deputy to New England, requiring 
 them of the Massachusets to restore such to their limits and respective 
 possessions as had petition'd y e Council ; this to be the open Commis- 
 sion onely, but in truth with seacret instructions to informe the Council 
 of the condition of those Colonies, and whether they were of such 
 power as to be able to resist his Ma^ and declare for themselves as 
 independent of the Crowne, which we were told, and which of late 
 
 * See more of him afterwards. 
 
1671.] 441 
 
 yeares made them refractorie. Coll. Midleton being call'd in, assur'd 
 U3 they might be curb'd by a few of his Ma tvs first-rate fregats, to 
 spoile their trade with the islands ; but tho' my Lo. President was not 
 satisfied, the rest were, and we did resolve to advise his Ma^ to send 
 Commiss rs with a formal Commission for adjusting boundaries, &c. 
 with some other instructions. 
 
 19. To Council. The letters of Sir Tho. Modiford were read, 
 giving relation of the exploit at Panama, which was very brave ; they 
 tooke, burnt and pillag'd y e towne of vast treasures, but the best of the 
 booty had ben shipp'd off and lay at anchor in the South Sea, so 
 that after our men had rang'd the country 60 miles about, they went 
 back to Nombre de Dios, and embarq'd for Jamaica. Such an action 
 had not ben done since the famous Drake. 
 
 I dined at the Hambrogh Resident's, and after dinner went to the 
 christening of S r Sam. Tuke's son Charles, at Somerset House, by a 
 Popish priest with many odd ceremonies. The godfathers were the 
 King and Lord Arundel of Wardour, and godmother the Countesse of 
 Huntingdon, 
 
 29 Aug. To London with some more papers of my progresse in the 
 Dutch Warr, delivered to y e Treasurer. 
 
 1 Sept. Dined with the Treasurer in Company with my L d Arling- 
 ton, Halifax, & Sir Tho. Strickland ; and next day went home, being 
 the anniversarie of the late dreadfull fire of London. 
 
 13 Sept. This night fell a dreadful tempest. 
 
 15. In the afternoone at Council, where letters were read from Sir 
 Ch. Wheeler concerning his resigning his Governm 1 of St. Christopher's. 
 
 21. I din'd in the Citty at the fraternity feast in Yron-mongers 
 Hall*, where the 4 stewards chose their successors for the next yeare, 
 with a solemn procession, garlands about their heads and musiq play- 
 ing before them, so coming up to the upper tables where the gentlemen 
 sate, they drank to the new stewards, and so we parted. 
 
 22. I dined at the Treasurer's, where I had discourse with Sir Hen. 
 Jones (now come over to raise a regiment of horse), concerning the 
 
 * One of the grand court-days of that opulent Company, which is one of twelve. 
 VOL. I. 3 L 
 
442 
 
 [1671. 
 
 French conquests in Lorraine ; he told me the King sold all things to 
 the souldiers, even to an handfull of hay. 
 
 Lord Sunderland was now nominated Ambassador to Spaine. 
 
 After dinner y° Treass r carried me to Lincoln's Inn, to one of the 
 Parliament Clearks, to obtaine of him that I might carry home and 
 peruse some of the Journals, which were accordingly delivered to me 
 to examine about the late Dutch War. Returning home I went on 
 shore to see the Costome House, now newly rebuilt since the dreadfull 
 conflagration *. 
 
 9 Oct. I went after evening service to London, in order to a journey 
 of refreshment with Mr. Treasurer to Newmarket, where the King then 
 was, in his coach with 6 brave horses, which we changed thrice, first 
 at Bishops Stortford and last at Chesterford, so as by night we got 
 to New-market, where Mr. Henry Jermain (nephew to the Earle of 
 St. Alban's) lodged me very civily. We went immediately to Court, 
 the King and all y e English gallants being there at their autumnal 
 sports. Supp'd at the Lo. Chamberlaine's, and the next day after 
 dinner I was on the heath, where I saw the greate match run between 
 Woodcock and Flatfoot, belonging to the King and to Mr. Eliot of y e 
 Bedchamber, many thousands being spectators ; a more signal race had 
 not ben run for many yeares. 
 
 This over, I went that night w th Mr. Treass r to Euston, a palace of 
 Lord Arlington's, where we found Mons r Colbert (the French Ambas- 
 sador), and the famous new French Maid of Honor, M'lle Querouaillef , 
 now coming to be in greate favor with the King. Here was also the 
 Countesse of Sunderland, and severall Lords and Ladies, who lodg'd 
 in the house. 
 
 During my stay here with Lord Arlington neere a fortnight, his 
 Ma ty came almost every second day with the Duke, who commonly 
 return'd to New-market, but the King often lay here, during which 
 time I had twice the honor to sit at dinner with him, with all freedome. 
 
 * This new edifice was again destroyed by five in the month of February 1S14, and has been 
 re-built in a very magnificent manner by Mr. Henry Pcto, who contracted for the work at a price 
 much siiort of that proposed by any other builder. 
 
 t See p. 432. 
 
1671.] 
 
 443 
 
 It was universaly reported that the faire Lady was bedded one of 
 
 these nights, and the stocking flung, after the manner of a married 
 bride ; I acknowledge she was for the most part in her undresse all day, 
 and that there was fondnesse and toying with that young wanton ; nay, 
 'twas said I was at the former ceremony, but 'tis utterly false ; I neither 
 saw nor heard of any such thing whilst I was there, tho' I had ben in 
 her chamber, and all over that appartment late enough, and was my- 
 selfe observing all passages with curiosity enough. However 'twas 
 with confidence believed she was first made a Misse, as they call these 
 unhappy creatures, with solemnity at this time. 
 
 On Sunday a young Cambridge Divine preached an excellent sermon 
 in the Chapell, the King and the Duke of York being present. 
 
 16. Came all the greate men from New-market, and other parts 
 both of Suffolk and Norfolck, to make their court, the whole house 
 fill'd from one end to the other with lords, ladys and gallants ; there 
 was such a furnished table as I had seldome seene, nor any thing more 
 splendid and free, so that for 15 days there were entertained at least 
 200 people, and halfe as many horses, besides servants and guards, at 
 infinite expence. 
 
 In the morning we went hunting and hawking; in the afternoone, 
 till almost morning, to cards and dice, yet I must say without noise, 
 swearing, quarrel, or confusion of any sort. I, who was no gamester, 
 had often discourse with the French Ambassador Colbert, and went 
 sometimes abroad on horseback with the ladys to take the aire, and 
 now and then to hunting; thus idly passing the time, but not without 
 more often recesse to my pretty apartment, where I was quite out 
 of all this hurry, and had leasure when I would, to converse with 
 bookes, for there is no man more hospitably easy to be withall than my 
 Lord Arlington, of whose particular friendship and kindness I had ever 
 a more than ordinary share. His house is a very noble pile, consisting 
 of 4 pavillions after the French, beside a body of a large house, and tho' 
 not built altogether, but form'd of additions to an old house (purchas'd 
 by his Lordship of one S r T. Rookwood) yet with a vast expence made 
 not onely capable and roomesome, but very magnificent and commo- 
 dious, as well within as without, nor lesse splendidly furnish'd. The 
 
444 
 
 [l6 7 l. 
 
 stayre-case is very elegant, the garden handsome, the canall beautifull, 
 but the soile drie, barren, and miserably sandy, which flies in drifts as 
 the wind sits. Here my Lord was pleas'd to advise with me about 
 ordering his plantations of firs, elmes, limes, &c. up his parke, and in 
 all other places and avenues. I persuaded him to bring his park so 
 neere as to comprehend his house within it, which he resolv'd upon, it 
 being now neere a mile to it. The water furnishing the fountaines is 
 raised by a pretty engine, or very slight plaine wheels, which likewise 
 serve to grind his corne, from a small cascade of the canall, the inven- 
 tion of Sir Sam. Moreland. In my Lord's house and especialy above 
 the stayre-case, in the greate hall and some of the chambers and roomes 
 of state, are paintings in fresco by Sign r Verrio, being the first worke 
 which he did in England. 
 
 17. My Lord Hen. Howard coming this night to visit my Lord 
 Chamberlaine, and staying a day, would needes have me go with him 
 to Norwich, promising to convey me back after a day or two; this, as 
 I could not refuse, I was not hard to be persuaded to, having a desire 
 to see that famous scholar and physitian Dr. T. Browne, author of the 
 " Religio Medici," and "Vulgar Errors," &c. now lately knighted. 
 Thither then went my Lord and I alone in his flying chariot with 6 
 horses ; and by the way, discoursing with me of severall of his con- 
 cernes, he acquainted me of his going to marry his eldest sonn to one 
 of the King's natural daughters by the Dutchesse of Cleaveland, by 
 which he reckon'd he should corne into mighty favour. He also told 
 
 me that tho' he kept that idle creature Mrs. B *, and would leave 
 
 ^.200 a yeare to y e sonne he had by her, he would never marry her, 
 and that the King himselfe had caution'd him against it. All the 
 world knows how he kept this promise. 
 
 Being come to the Ducal Palace, my Lord made very much of me, but 
 I had little rest, so exceeding desirous he was to shew me the contrivance 
 he had made for the entertainment of their Ma t,es and the whole Court 
 not long before, and which, tho' much of it was but temporary, ap- 
 parently fram'd of boards only, were yet standing. As to the Palace, 
 
 * Bickerton, see afterwards, under 1678, Jan. and August. 
 
445 
 
 it is an old wretched building, and that part of it newly built of brick 
 is very ill understood, so as 1 was of opinion it had ben much better to 
 have demolished all, and set it up in a better place, than to proceede 
 any farther ; for it stands in the very Market-place, and tho' neere a 
 river, yet a very narrow muddy one, and without any extent. 
 
 Next morning I went to see Sir Tho. Browne (with whom I had 
 some time corresponded by letter, tho' I had never seen him before). 
 His whole house and garden being a paradise and cabinet of rarities, 
 and that of the best collection, especialy medails, books, plants, and 
 natural things. Amongst other curiosities Sir Thomas had a collection 
 of y e eggs of all the foule and birds he could procure, that country 
 (especialy the promontary of Norfolck) being frequented, as he said, 
 by severall kinds w ch seldome or never go farther into the land, as 
 cranes, storkes, eagles, and variety of water-foule. He led me to see 
 all y e remarkable places of this ancient Citty, being one of the largest, 
 and certainly, after London, one of the noblest of England, for its 
 venerable Cathedrall, number of stately churches, cleanesse of y e 
 streetes, and buildings of flints so exquisitely headed and squared as I 
 was much astonish'd at ; but he told me they had lost the art of 
 squaring the flints, in which they once so much excell'd, and of w ch 
 the churches, best houses, and walls, are built. The Castle is an an- 
 tique extent of ground, which now they call Marsfield, and would 
 have ben a fitting area to have plac'd the Ducal palace in. The 
 suburbs are large, the prospects sweete, with other amenities, not 
 omitting the flower gardens, in which all the inhabitants excel. The 
 fabric of stuffs brings a vast trade to this populous towne. 
 
 Being return'd to my Lord's, who had ben with me all this morning, 
 he advis'd with me concerning a plot to rebuild his house, having 
 already as he said erected a front next the streete, and a left wing, and 
 now resolving to set up another wing and pavilion next y e garden, and 
 to convert the bowling-greene into stables. My advice was, to desist 
 from all, and to meditate wholly on rebuilding an handsome palace at 
 Arundell House in the Strand, before he proceeded farther here, and 
 then to place this in y c castle, that ground belonging to his Lordship. 
 
446 
 
 [1671. 
 
 I observed that most of the Church-yards (tho* some of them large 
 enough) were filled up with earth, or rather the congestion of dead 
 bodys one upon another, for want of earth, even to the very top of the 
 walls, and some above the walls, so as the Churches seemed to be 
 built in pitts. 
 
 18 Oct. I return'd to Euston in my Lord's coach, leaving him at 
 Norwich, in company with a very ingenious gentleman, Mr. White, 
 whose father and mother (daughter to the late Lord Treass r Weston, 
 Earl of Portland) I knew at Rome, where this gentlemen was borne, 
 and where his parents lived and died with much reputation, during 
 their banishment in our civil broils. 
 
 21. Leaving Euston, I lodged this night at New-market, where I 
 found y e jolly blades raceing, dauncing, feasting, and revelling, more 
 resembling a luxurious and abandon'd rout, than a Christian Court. 
 The Duke of Buckingham was now in mighty favour, and had with 
 him that impudent woman the Countess of Shrewsbury*, with his 
 band of fidlers, &c. 
 
 Next morning, in company with Sir Bernard Gascoyne and Lord 
 Hawly, I came in the Treass rs coach to Bishop Stortford, where he 
 gave us a noble supper. Next day to London, and so home. 
 
 14 Nov. To Council, where Sir Cha. Wheeler, late Gov 1 * of the 
 Leeward Islands, having ben complain'd of for many indiscreete ma- 
 nagements, it was resolv'd, on scanning many of y e particulars, to 
 advise his Ma ty to remove him, and consult what was to be don to pre- 
 vent these inconveniences he had brought things to. This businesse 
 staide me in London almost a weeke, being in Council or Committee 
 every morning till the 25 th. 
 
 2J. We ordered that a Proclamation should be presented to his 
 Ma ,y to signe, against what S r Cha. Wheeler had done in St. Chris- 
 topher's, since the war, on the articles of peace at Breda. He was 
 shortly afterwards recalled. 
 
 6 Dec. Came to visite me S r William Haywood, a greate pretender 
 to English antiquities. 
 
 * See hereafter, under 1679, July. 
 
 7 
 
1672.'] 447 
 
 14. Went to see the Duke of Buckingham's ridiculous farce and 
 rhapsody, called " The Recital*," buffooning all plays, yet prophane 
 enough. 
 
 23. The Councillors of the Board of Trade din'd together at y° 
 Cock in Suffolck streete. 
 
 1672, 12 Jan. His Ma (y renewed us our lease of Says Court pas- 
 tures for 99 yeares, but ought, according to his solemn promisef (as I 
 hope he will still perform), have passed them to us in fee farme. 
 
 23. To London, in order to S r Rich d Browne, my father in law, 
 resigning his place as Clerke of the Council to Joseph Williamson, Esq. 
 who was admitted, and was knighted. This place his Ma^ had pro- 
 mis'd to give me many yeares before ; but upon consideration of the 
 renewal of our lease and other reasons, I chose to part with it to S l * 
 Joseph, who gave us and y e rest of his brother clearks a handsome 
 supper at bis house, and after supper a consort of music. 
 
 3 Feb. An extraordinary snow : part of the weeke was taken up in 
 consulting about the commission of prisoners of war, and instructions 
 to our officers, in order to a second war with the Hollanders, his Ma ty 
 having made choice of the former Commiss rs and myselfe amongst them. 
 
 11. In the afternoone that famous proselyte, Mons r Brevall, 
 preach'd at the Abby, in English, extreamly well and with much elo- 
 quence. He had ben a Capuchine, but much better learned than 
 most of that order. 
 
 12. At the Council we enter'd on enquiries about improving the 
 Plantations by silks, galls, flax, senna, &c. and consider'd how nut- 
 megs and cinamon might be obtain'd and brought to Jamaica, that 
 soile and climate promising successe. Dr. Worsley being called in, 
 spake many considerable things to encourage it. We tooke order to 
 send to the Plantations that none of their ships should adventure 
 homeward single, but stay for company and convoys. We also deli- 
 berated on some fit person to go as Commiss 1 ' to inspect their actions 
 in New England, and from time to time report how that people stood 
 affected. — In future to meete at White-hall. 
 
 * This must mean his play of "The Rehearsal." 
 
 t The King's engagement under his hand is now at Wotton. 
 
448 
 
 [16 7 2. 
 
 20. Dr. Parr of Camerwell preach'd a most pathetic funebral dis- 
 course and panegyric at the interment of our late pastor, Dr. Breton 
 (who died on the 18th), on " Happy is y 1 servant whom when his 
 Lord cometh, &c." This good man, among other expressions pro- 
 fess'd that he had never ben so touch'd and concern'd at any losse as 
 at this, unlesse at that of K. Charles our Martyr, and Archbishop 
 Usher, whose chaplaine he had ben. Dr. Breton had preach'd on the 
 28th and 30th Jan. : on the Friday, having fasted all day, making 
 his provisionary sermon for the Sunday following, he went well 
 to bed, but was taken suddenly ill, and expir'd before help could 
 come to him. 
 
 Never had a parish a greater losse, not onely as he was an excellent 
 preacher, and fitted for our greate and vulgar auditory, but for his ex- 
 cellent life and charity, his meeknesse and obliging nature, industrious, 
 helpfull, and full of good workes. He left neere ^400. to the poore 
 in his will, and that what children of his should die in their minority, 
 their portion should be so employed. I lost in particular a special 
 friend, and one that had an extraordinary love to me and mine. 
 
 25. To London, to speake with the Bishop, and Sir John Cutler our 
 patron, to present Mr. Frampton (afterwards Bishop of Gloucester.) 
 
 1 March. A full Council of Plantations, on the danger of the Lee- 
 ward Islands, threaten'd by the French, who had taken some of our 
 ships, and began to interrupt our trade. Also in debate, whether the 
 new Governor of St. Christopher's should be subordinate to the Gov 1 
 of Barbados. The debate was serious and long. 
 
 12. Now w r as the first blow 7 given by us to the Dutch convoy of the 
 Smyrna fleete, by S r Rob* Holmes and Lord Ossorie, in which we re- 
 ceived little save blows, and a worthy reproch for attacking our neigh- 
 bours 'ere any war was proclaim'd, and then pretending the occasion to 
 be, that some time before, the Merlin yatcht chanceing to saile thro' 
 the whole Dutch fleete, their Admiral did not strike to that trifling 
 vessel. Surely this was a quarrel slenderly grounded, and not be- 
 coming Christian neighbours. We are like to thrive accordingly. 
 Lord Ossorie several times deplor'd to me his being engaged in it; he 
 had more justice and honour than in the least to approve of it, tho' he 
 
 7 
 
1672.] 
 
 449 
 
 had ben over persuaded to the expedition. There is no doubt but we 
 should have surpriz'd this exceeding rich fleete, had not the avarice and 
 ambition of Holmes and Sprag separated themselves and wilfully 
 divided our fleete, on presumption that either of them was strong 
 enough to deale with the Dutch convoy without joyning and mutual 
 help; but they so warmly plied our divided fleets, that whilst in con- 
 flict the merchants sail'd away, and got safe into Holland. 
 
 A few daies before this, the Treasurer of the Household, Sir Tho. 
 Clifford*, hinted to me, as a confident, that his Ma ty would shut up the 
 Exchequer (and accordingly his Ma tv made use of infinite treasure 
 there, to prepare for an intended rupture) ; but, says he, it will soone 
 be open againe and every body satisfied ; for this bold man, who had 
 ben the sole adviser of the King to invade that sacred stock (tho' 
 some pretend it was Lord Ashley's counsel, then Ciiancellor of the 
 Exch r ), was so over confident of the successe of this unworthy designe 
 against the Smyrna merchants, as to put his Ma' 5 ' on an action which 
 not onely lost the hearts of his subjects, and ruined many widdows and 
 
 * The following is taken from King James's Life by himself: "On the King's attention to 
 have a Lord Treasurer (1672) instead of putting the Seals into Commission, the Duke of York 
 desired Lord Arlington to join with him in proposing to the King the Lord Clifford for that consi- 
 derable employment ; but he found Lord Arlington very cold in it, and endeavouring to persuade 
 the Duke that the King did not intend the alteration, and the next day he employed a friend to 
 press the Duke to endeavour to get Sir Robert Car to be Commissioner in the room of Lord 
 Shaftesbury (then appointed Lord Chancellor). 
 
 " Some few days after, the Duke proposed to his Majesty the Lord Clifford as Treasurer, which 
 was well received, and he said he would do it, as thinking no body fitter; he also told the Duke 
 that Lord Arlington had a mind to have that Staff : but he answered him that he had too much 
 kindness for him to let him have it, for he knew he was not fit for the office ; and should he give 
 it him, it would be his ruin. A little after the King told the Duke that he found Lord Arlington 
 was angry with Lord Clifford, on knowing that he was to have the place ; and desired the Duke to 
 persuade Lord Arlington not to let the world see his discontent, and to endeavour to make them 
 continue friends. They promised the Duke to live friendly together, but Lord Arlington kept not 
 his word, and was ever after cold, if not worse, towards him. 
 
 " Christmas coming on, the King spake to Lord Clifford and Lord Arundel of Wardour, to per- 
 suade the Duke to receive the Sacrament with him at that time (which the Duke had forborne for 
 several months before). They urged the King not to press it, and he then seemed satisfied ; but 
 the day before Christmas Eve, the King spoke again to Lord Clifford to represent to the Duke what 
 he had before said, which the Lord Clifford did, but found the Duke was not to be moved in his 
 resolution of not going against his conscience." 
 VOL. I. 3 M 
 
450 
 
 [1672. 
 
 orphans whose stocks were lent him, but the reputation of his Exche- 
 quer for ever, it being before in such credit, that he might have com- 
 manded halfe the wealth of the Nation. 
 
 The credit of this bank being thus broken did exceedingly discontent 
 the people, and never did his Ma t}S affairs prosper to any purpose after 
 it, for as it did not supply the expence of the meditated war, so it 
 mealted away, I know not how. 
 
 To this succeeded the King's declaration for an universal tolleration ; 
 Papists and swarms of Sectaries now boldly shewing themselves in 
 their publiq meetings. This was imputed to y e same council, Clifford 
 warping to Rome as was believ'd, nor was Lord Arlington cleare of 
 suspicion, to gratifie that party, but as since it has prov'd, and was 
 then evidently foreseen, to the extreame weakening the Church of 
 England and its Episcopal Government, as 'twas projected. I speake 
 not this as my owne sense, but what was the discourse and thoughts 
 of others who were lookers on ; for I think there might be some relaxa- 
 tions without the least prejudice to the present establishment, discreetly 
 limited, but to let go y e reines in this manner, and then to imagine 
 they could take them up againe as easily, was a false politiq and 
 greately destructive. The truth is, our Bishops slip'd the occasion, 
 for had they held a steady hand upon his Ma t)S restauration, as they 
 might easily have don, the Church of England had emerg'd and flou- 
 rish'd without interruption ; but they were then remisse, and covetous 
 after advantages of another kind, whilst his Ma ty suffer'd them to come 
 into an harvest, with which, without any injustice, he might have 
 remunerated innumerable gallant gentlemen for their services, who had 
 ruin'd themselves in y e late Rebellion*. 
 
 21 Mar. I visited the coasts in my district of Kent, and divers 
 wounded and languishing poore men that had ben in the Smyrna con- 
 flict. I went over to see the new-begun Fort of Tilbury ; a royal work 
 indeede, and such as will one day bridle a greate Citty to the purpose, 
 before they are aware. 
 
 * 'I his means the fines for renewals of leases not filled up during the Interregnum, and now to 
 be immediately applied for. Bishop Burnet says they were much misapplied. Hist, of his own 
 Time, 1.304. 
 
1672.] 451 
 
 23. Capt. Cox, one of the Commiss" of the Navy, furnishing me 
 with a yatcht, I sail'd to Sheere-nesse to see that Fort also, now newly 
 finished ; severall places on both sides the Swale and Medway to Gil- 
 lingham and Upnore, being also provided with redouts and batteries, 
 to secure the station of our men of war at Chatham, and shut y e doore 
 when y e steedes were stolen. 
 
 24. I saw the chirurgeon cut off y e leg of a wounded sailor, the 
 stout and gallant man enduring it with incredible patience, without being 
 bound to his chaire as usual on such painfull occasions. I had hardly 
 courage enough to be present. Not being cut off high enough, the gan- 
 green prevail'd, and the second operation cost the poore creature his life. 
 
 Lord ! what miseries are mortal men subject to, and what confusion 
 and mischeif do the avarice, anger, and ambition of Princes cause in 
 the world ! 
 
 25. I proceeded to Canterbury, Dover, Deal, the Isle of Thanet, 
 by Sandwich, and so to Margate. Here we had aboundance of mise- 
 rably wounded men, his Ma^ sending his cheife chirurgeon, Serjeant 
 Knight, to meet me, and Dr. Waldrond had attended me all the jour- 
 ney. Having taken order for the accomodation of the wounded, I came 
 brack thro' a country the best cultivated of any that in my life I had 
 any where seene, every field lying as even as a bowling-greene, and 
 the fences, plantations, and husbandry in such admirable order as 
 infinitely delighted me after the sad and afflicting spectacles and objects 
 I was come from. Observing almost every tall tree to have a weather- 
 cock on the top bough, and some trees half a dozen, I learn'd that on 
 a certaine holyday the farmers feast their servants, at which solemnitv 
 they set up these cocks in a kind of triumph. 
 
 Being come back towards Rochester, I went to take order about 
 building a strong and high wall about a house I had hired of a gentle- 
 man at a place call'd Hartlip, for a prison, paying 50/. yearly rent. 
 Here I settled a Provost Martial and other Officers, returning by Fe- 
 versham. On the 30th heard a Sermon in Rochester Cathedrall, & so 
 got to Says Court on the first of Aprill. 
 
 4 April. I went to see the fopperies of the Papists at Somerset 
 House and York House, where now the French Ambass r had caus'd to 
 
452 
 
 [1672. 
 
 be represented our Blessed Saviour at the Paschal Supper with his Dis- 
 ciples, in figures and puppets made as big as the life, of wax-work, cu- 
 riously clad and sitting round a large table, the roome nobly hung, and 
 shining with innumerable lamps and candles : this was expos'd to all the 
 world, all the Citty came to see it : such liberty had the Roman Catho>- 
 lics at this time obtain'd. 
 
 16. Sat in Council, preparing Lord Willougby's commission and 
 instructions as Governor of Barbados and the Caribbe Islands. 
 
 17. Sat on business in y u Star Chamber. 
 
 19. At Council, preparing instructions for Col. Stapleton, now to 
 go Governor of St. Christopher's ; and heard the complaints of the 
 Jamaica merchants against the Spaniards for hindering them from 
 cutting Logwood on the maine land, where they have no pretence. 
 
 21. To my Lord of Canterbury, to entreate him to engage Sir 
 John Cutler, the patron, to provide us a grave and learned man, in 
 opposition to a novice. 
 
 30. Congratulated Mr. Treass 1 " Clifford's new honour, being made 
 a Baron. 
 
 2 May. My sonn John was specially admitted of the Middle Temple 
 by Sir Fra. North, his Majesties Solicitor General, and since Chancellor. 
 I pray God bless this beginning, my intention being that he should 
 seriously apply himself to the study of the Law. 
 
 10. I was order'd by letter from the Council to repair forthwith to 
 his Ma*y, whom I found in the Pal-Mai in St. James's Park, where 
 his Ma ty coming to me from the company, commanded me to go imme- 
 diately to the sea coast, and to observe the motion of the Dutch fleet 
 and ours, the Duke and so many of the flower of our Nation being now 
 under saile, coming from Portsmouth thro' y e Downes, where 'twas 
 belie v'd there might be an encounter. 
 
 1 1 . Went to Chatham. — 12. Heard a Sermon in Rochester Cathedrall. 
 ]3. To Canterbury ; visited Dr. Bargrave*, my old fellow-traveller 
 
 in Italy, & great virtuoso. 
 
 * Dean of Canterbury, a great benefactor to the Cathedral Library there. See in Todd's " Life 
 of Milton" some curious particulars concerning him. 
 
167*.] 453 
 
 14. To Dover, but the fleet did not appear till the 16th, when the 
 Duke of York with his and the French squadron, in all IJO ships (of 
 which above 100 were men of war) sail'd by, after y e Dutch, who were 
 newly withdrawn. Such a gallant and formidable navy never, I think, 
 spread saile upon y e seas. It was a goodly yet terrible sight, to behold 
 them as I did, passing Eastward by the straights twixt Dover and 
 Calais in a glorious day. The wind was yet so high that I could not wel 
 go aboard, and they were soon got out of sight. The next day having 
 visited our prisoners at the Castle, and saluted the Governor, I tooke 
 horse for Margate. Here, from the North Foreland Light-house-top 
 (which is a Pharos, built of bricq and having on y e top a cradle of iron 
 in which a man attends a greate sea-coal fire all the year long, when 
 the nights are darke, for the safeguard of sailors) we could see our fleete 
 as they lay at anker. The next morning they weighed, and sailed out 
 of sight to the N. E. 
 
 19. Went to Margate; and the following day was carried to see a 
 gallant widow, brought up a farmoreese, and I think of gigantic race, 
 rich, comely, and exceedingly industrious. She put me in mind of 
 Debora and Abigail, her house was so plentifully stored with all man- 
 ner of countrie provisions, all of her owne growth, and all her conve- 
 niences so substantial!, neate, and well understood ; she herselfe so 
 jolly and hospitable ; and her land so trim and rarely husbanded that it 
 struck me with admiration at her oeconomie. 
 
 This towrie much consists of Brewers of a certaine heady ale, and 
 they deale much in mault, &c. For the rest, tis raggedly built, and has 
 an ill haven, with a small fort of little concernment, nor is the island 
 well disciplin'd ; but as to the husbandry and rural part, far exceeding 
 any part of England, for the accurate culture of their ground, in w ch 
 they exceed, even to curiositie and emulation. 
 
 We passed by Richborow, and in sight of Reculver, and so thro' a 
 sweete garden as it were, to Canterbury. 
 
 24. To London, and gave his Ma^ an account of my journey, and 
 that I had put all things in readinesse upon all events, and so return'd 
 home sufficiently wearied. 
 
454 [1672. 
 
 31. I receiv'd another command to repaire to the Sea-side; so I 
 went to Rochester, where I found many wounded, sick, and prisoners 
 newly put on shore after the engagement on the 28th, in which the 
 Earle of Sandwich, that incomparable person and my particular friend, 
 and divers more whom I loved, were lost. My Lord (who was Admiral 
 of y L ' Blew) was in the Prince, which was burnt, one of the best men of 
 war that ever spread canvass on the sea. There were lost with this 
 brave man, a son of Sir Cha. Cotterell (Master of the Ceremonies), and 
 a son of S r Cha. Harbord (his Ma tJ ' s Surveyor-general), two valiant and 
 most accomplish'd youths, full of virtue and courage, who might have 
 saved themselves, but chose to perish with my Lord, whom they ho- 
 nour'd and loved above their own lives. 
 
 Here I cannot but make some reflections on things past. It was not 
 above a day or two that going to White-hall to take leave of his Lord- 
 ship, who had his lodgings in the Privy Garden, shaking me by the hand 
 he bid me Good-by'e, and said he thought he should see me no more, 
 and I saw to my thinking something boading in his countenance ; 
 " No," says he, " they will not have me live. Had I lost a fleete 
 (meaning on his returne from Bergen when he tooke the East India 
 prize) I should have fared better; but be it as it pleases God — I must 
 do something I know not what to save my reputation." Something to 
 this effect he had hinted to me ; thus I tooke my leave. I well remem- 
 ber that the Duke of Albemarle, and my now Lord Clifford, had, I 
 know not why, no greate opinion of his courage, because in former 
 conflicts, being an able and experienc'd seaman (which neither of them 
 were), he always brought off his Ma^ s ships without losse, tho' not 
 without as many markes of true courage as the stoutest of them ; and 
 I am a witnesse that in the late war his owne ship was pierc'd like a 
 cullendar. But the buisinesse was, he was utterly against this war 
 from the beginning, and abhorr'd y e attacquing of the Smyrna fleete ; 
 he did not favor the heady expedition of Clifford at Bergen, nor was 
 he so furious and confident as was the Duke of Albemarle, who believed 
 he could vanquish the Hollanders with one squadron. My Lord Sand- 
 wich was prudent as well as valiant, and allways govern'd his affairs 
 with successe and little losse; he was for deliberation and reason, they 
 
16'72.] 455 
 
 for action and slaughter without either, and for this, whisper* d as if my 
 Lord Sandwich was not so gallant hecause he was not so rash, and 
 knew how fatal it was to loose a fleete, such as was that under his 
 conduct, and for which these very persons would have censur'd him on 
 the other side. This it was, I am confident, griev'd him and made him 
 enter like a lion, and fight like one too, in the midst of the hottest 
 service, where the stoutest of the rest seeing him engag'd and so many 
 ships upon him, durst not, or would not, come to his succour, as some 
 of them, whom I know, might have don. Thus this gallant person 
 perish'd to gratifie the pride and envy of some I nam'd. 
 
 Deplorable was the losse of one of the best accomplish'd persons, 
 not onely of this Nation but of any other. He was learned in sea 
 affaires, in politics, in mathematics, and in musiq ; he had been on 
 divers embassies, was of a sweete and obliging temper, sober, chast, 
 very ingenious, a true Nobleman, an ornament to the Court and his 
 Prince, nor has he left any behind him who approch his many virtues. 
 
 He had, I confesse, serv'd the tyrant Cromwell when a young man, 
 but 'twas without malice, as a souldier of fortune ; and he readily sub- 
 mitted, and that with joy, bringing an entire fleete with him from the 
 Sound, at y e first tidings of his Majestie's Restauration. I verily believe 
 him as faithfull a subject as any that were not his friends. I am yet 
 heartily griev'd at this mighty losse, nor do I call it to my thoughts 
 without emotion. 
 
 2 June. Trinity Sonday I pass'd at Rochester; and on the 5th there 
 was buried in the Cathedral Mons r Rabiniere, reare Admiral of the 
 French squadron, a gallant person, who died of the wounds he received 
 in the fight. This ceremonie lay on me, which I perform'd with all the 
 decency I could, inviting the Mayor and Aldermen to come in their 
 formalities ; Sir Jonas Atkins was there with his guards ; and the Deane 
 and Prebendaries : one of his countrymen pronouncing a funeral ora- 
 tion at the brink of his grave, which I caus'd to be dug in the Quire. 
 This is more at large describ'd in the Gazette of that day. Col. 
 Reymes, my colleague in Commission, assisting, who was so kind as 
 to accompany me from London, tho' it was not his district, for indeede 
 the stresse of both these warrs lay more on me by far than on any of 
 
456 [1672. 
 
 tny breathren, who had little to do in theirs. — I went to see Upnore 
 Castle, w ch I found pretty well defended, but of no greate moment. 
 
 Next day I sailed to the fleete, now riding at the Buoy of the Nore, 
 where I met his Majesty, the Duke, Lord Arlington, and all the greate 
 men, in the Charles, lying miserably shatter'd ; but y L> misse of Lord 
 Sandwich redoubl'd the losse to me, and shew'd the folly of hazarding 
 so brave a fleete, and loosing so many good men for no provocation 
 but that y e Hollanders exceeded us in industrie, and in all things but 
 envy. 
 
 At Sheernesse I gave his Ma tv and his Royal Highnesse an account 
 of my charge, and return'd to Queenborow ; next day dined at Major 
 Dorels, Governor of Shere-nesse ; thence to Rochester, and the fol- 
 lowing day home. 
 
 12. To London to his Ma ty , to solicite for mony for the sick and 
 wounded, w ch he promised me. 
 
 19. To London againe, to solicite the same. 
 
 21. At a Council of Plantations. Most of this weeke busied with 
 
 v e sick and wounded. 
 j 
 
 3 July. To Lord Sandwich's funeral, which was by water to 
 Westminster in solemn pomp. 
 
 31. I entertain'd the Maids of Honour (among whom there was 
 one I infinitely esteemed for her many and extraordinary virtues) at a 
 comedy this afternoone, and so went home*. 
 
 1 Aug*. I was at the marriage of Lord Arlington's onely daughter 
 (a sweete child if ever there was anyf) to the Duke of Grafton, the 
 King's natural son by the Dutchesse of Cleaveland. The Abp. of 
 Canterbury officiating, the King and all the grandees being present. 
 I had a favour given me by my Lady, but tooke no greate joy at the 
 thing for many reasons. 
 
 18. Sir James Hayes, Secretary to Prince Rupert, dined with me : 
 after dinner I was sent for to Gravesend, to dispose of no fewer than 
 
 * Mrs. Blagg, whom he afterwards characterizes as a rare example of piety and virtue in so rare 
 a witt, beauty, and perfection, in a licentious court and depraved age. She was afterwards mar- 
 ried to Mr. Godolphin. 
 
 f She was then only 5 years old. 
 
1672.] 
 
 457 
 
 800 sick men. That night I got to the Fleete at the Buoy of the 
 Nore, where I spake with the King and y e Duke ; and after dinner 
 next day return'd to Gravesend. 
 
 1 Sept. I spent this weeke in soliciting for monies, and in reading 
 to my Lord Clifford my papers relating to the first Holland war. — 
 Now our Council of Plantations met at Lord Shaftesbury's (Chanc r of 
 the Exchequer) to reade and reforme the Draught of our new Patent, 
 joyning the Council of Trade to our political capacities. After this I 
 returned home in order to another excursion to the Sea-side, to get as 
 many as possible of y e men who were recovered on board y e Fleete. 
 
 8. I lay at Gravesend, thence to Rochester, returning on the 11th. 
 
 15. Dr. Duport, Greek Professor of Cambridge, preached before the 
 King on 1 Timothy 6. 6. No greate preacher, but a very worthy and 
 learned man. 
 
 25. I din'd at Lord John Berkley's*, newly ariv'd out of Ireland, 
 where he had ben Deputy; it was in his new house -j*, or rather palace, 
 for I am assur'd it stood him in neere ^.30,000. It is very well built, 
 and has many noble roomes, but they are not very convenient, con- 
 sisting but of one Corps de Logis ; they are all roomes of state, 
 without clossets. The staire-case is of cedar, the furniture is princely : 
 the kitchen and stables are ill plac'd, and the corridore worse, having 
 no report to the wings they joyne to. For the rest, the fore court is 
 noble, so are the stables, and above all, the gardens, which are incompa- 
 rable by reason of the inequalitie of the ground, and a pretty piscina. 
 The holly hedges on the terrace I advised the planting of. The por- 
 ticos are in imitation of an house described by Palladio, but it happens 
 to be the worst in his booke, tho' my good friend Mr. Hugh May, his 
 Lordship's architect, effected it. 
 
 26. I carried with me to dinner my Lord H. Howard (now to be 
 made Earl of Norwich and Earl Marshall of England) to S r Rob*. 
 
 * Lord Berkley of Stratton. 
 
 f Berkeley House was burnt to the ground by accident. The site was on a farm called Hay-hill 
 Farm, the names of which are preserved in Hay-street, Hill-street, Farm-street. Devonshire House, 
 Lansdown House, Berkeley Square, &c. are built on part of the ground. 
 
 VOL. I. 3 N 
 
458 
 
 Clayton's, now. Sheriff of London, at his new house*, where we had a 
 great feast ; it is built indeede for a greate Magistrate, at excessive 
 cost. The cedar dining-roome is painted with the historie of the 
 Gyants War, incomparably don by Mr. Streeter, but the figures are 
 too neere the eye. 
 
 6 Oct. Dr. Thistle th wait preached at White-hall on 2 Apoc. 5. a 
 young but good preacher. I received the blessed Communion, Dr. 
 Blandford, Bp. of Worcester, and Deane of y e Chapel, officiating. Dined 
 at my L d Cliffords with Lord Mulgrave, Sir Gilbert Talbot, and Sir 
 Robert Holmes. 
 
 8. I tooke leave of my Lady Sunderland, who was going to Paris 
 to my Lord, now Ambassador there. She made me stay dinner at 
 Leicester House, and afterwards sent for Richardson the famous Fire- 
 eater. He devour'd brimston on glowing coales before us, chewing 
 and swallowing them ; he mealted a beere-glasse and eate it quite up ; 
 then taking a live coale on his tongue, he put on it a raw oyster, the 
 coal was blown on with bellows till it flam'd and sparkl'd in his mouth, 
 and so remain'd till the oyster gaped and was quite boil'd ; then he 
 mealted pitch and wax with sulphur, which he drank downe as it 
 flamed ; I saw it flaming in his mouth a good while ; he also tooke up 
 a thick piece of yron, such as laundresses use to put in their smoothing- 
 hoxes, when it was fiery hot, held it betweene his teeth, then in his 
 hand, and threw it about like a stone, but this I observ'd he car'd not 
 to hold very long ; then he stood on a small pot, and bending his body 
 tooke a glowing yron with his mouth from betweene his feete, without 
 touching the pot or ground with his hands ; with divers other pro- 
 digious feates. 
 
 * Situate in the Old Jewry. Sir Robert built it to keep his shrievalty, which he did with great 
 magnificence. It was for some years the residence of Mr. Samuel Sharp, an eminent surgeon, 
 and was afterwards occupied (viz. from 1806 to the close of the year 1811) by the London Insti- 
 tution for their library and reading rooms, previous to their temporary removal to King's Arms 
 Yard, Coleman Street. This Literary Institution, established by Charter, is now finally settled in 
 a new and splendid mansion, purposely erected by the proprietors, from a design by Mr. VV. 
 Brooks, on the North side of Moorfields (1818).— Streeter's paintings have been long placed in the 
 family seat of the Claytons at Marden, near Godstone, Surrey. 
 
1672.] 459 
 
 13. After sermon (being summon'd before) I went to my Lord 
 Keeper's Sir Orlando Bridgeman at Essex House, where our new Patent 
 was opened and read, constituting us that were of the Council of Plan- 
 tations to be now of the Council of Trade also, both united. After the 
 Patent was read, we all tooke our oathes and departed. 
 
 24. Met in Council, the Earle of Shaftesbury, now our President, 
 swearing our Secretary and his Clearks, which was Mr. Lock, an excel- 
 lent learned gentleman and student of Christ Church, Mr. Lloyd and 
 Mr. Frowde. We dispatch'd a letter to Sir Tho. Linch, Gov r of 
 Jamaica, giving him notice of a design of y u Dutch on that island. 
 
 27. I went to heare that famous preacher Dr. Frampton at St. 
 Giles's, on 39 Psalm 6. This Divine had ben twice at Jerusalem, and 
 was not onely a very pious and holy man, but excellent in the pulpit 
 for the moving affections. 
 
 8 Nov. At Council we debated the buisinesse of the Consulage of 
 Leghorne. I was of the Committee with S 1 Humphrey Winch the 
 Chaireman to examine the Lawes of his Ma lu severall Plantations and 
 Colonies in the West Indies, &c. 
 
 15. Many Merchants were summon'd about the Consulage of 
 Venice ; which caused greate disputes ; the most considerable thought 
 it useless. This being the Queen Consort's birth-day, there was an 
 extraordinarie appearance of gallantrie, and a ball daunced at Court. 
 
 30. I was chosen Secretary to the Royall Society. 
 
 21 Dec. Settl'd y e Consulage of Venice. 
 
 1673. 1 Jan. After publiq prayers in the Chapell at White-hall, 
 when I gave God solemne thanks for all his mercys to me the yeare 
 past, Sec. and my humble supplications to him for his blessing the yeare 
 now entering, I returned home, having my poore deceased servant 
 (Adams) to bury, who died of a pleurisie. 
 
 3. My sonn now published his Version of " Rapinus Hortorum*." 
 
 28. Visited Don Francisco de Melos, the Portugal Ambass r , who 
 shew'd me his curious Collection of Rooks and Pictures. He was a 
 person of good parts, and a vertuous man. 
 
 * Of Gardens. Four Books. First written in Latin verse, by Renatus Rapinus, and now made 
 English. By I. E. London, 1673. Dedicated to Henry Earle of Arlington, &c. &c. &c. 
 
460 [1673- 
 
 6 Feb. To Council about reforming an abuse of the Diers with 
 Saundus and other false drougs ; examin'd divers of that trade. 
 
 23. The Bishop of Chichester* preach'd before y e King on 2 Coloss. 
 14, 15. admirably well, as he can do nothing but what is well. 
 
 5 Mar. Our new Vicar Mr. Holden preach'd in White-hall Chapel 
 on 4 Psalm 6, 7- This gent n is a very excellent and universal scholar, 
 a good and wise man, but he had not the popular way of preaching, 
 nor is in any measure fit for our plaine and vulgar auditorie, as his pre- 
 decessor was. There was, however, no comparison betwixt their parts 
 for profound learning; but time and experience may forme him to 
 a more practical way than that he is in of University lectures and 
 erudition, which is now universally left off for what is mucli more 
 profitable. 
 
 15. I heard the speech made to the Lords in their House by Sir 
 Sam. Tuke in behalfe of the Papists, to take off the Penal Laws ; and 
 then dined with Col. Norwood. 
 
 16. Dr. Pearson, Bishop of Chester-f, preach'd on 9th Hebrews 14; 
 a most incomparable sermon from one of the most learned Divines of 
 our Nation. I din'd at my Lord Arlington's with the Duke and 
 Dutchesse of Monmouth ; she is one of the wisest and craftiest of her 
 sex, and has much witt. Here was also y e learned Isaac Vossius. 
 
 During Lent there is constantly the most excellent preaching by the 
 most eminent Bishops and Divines of the Nation. 
 
 26 Mar. I was sworn a younger brother of the Trinity House, with 
 my most worthy and long acquainted noble friend Lord Ossorie (eldest 
 son to the Duke of Ormond), Sir Rich d . Browne my father-in-law 
 being now Master of that Society ; after which there was a greate 
 collation. 
 
 29. I carried my sonn to the Bishop of Chichester, that learned and 
 pious man, Dr. Peter Gunning *, to be instructed by him before he 
 receiv'd the holy sacrament, when he gave him most excellent advice, 
 
 * Dr. Peter Gunning, formerly Master of St. John's College, Cambridge, afterwards Bishop 
 of Ely. Burnet says of him that he was a man of great reading, a very honest, sincere man, but 
 of no sound judgment. Hist, of his own Times, I. 297. 
 
 f Well known by his valuable Exposition of the Creed. 
 
1673-] 461 
 
 which I pray God may influence and remain with him as long as he 
 lives ; and O that I had hen so blessed and instructed when first I was 
 admitted to that sacred ordinance! 
 
 30. Easter Day : myself and sonn receiv'd the blessed communion, 
 it being his first time, and with that whole week's more extraordinary 
 preparation. I beseech God make him a sincere good Christian, 
 whilst I endeavour to instill into him y e feare and love of God, and 
 discharge the duty of a father. 
 
 At the sermon coram JRege, preached by Dr. Sparrow, Bp. of Exceter, 
 to a most crowded auditorie ; I staied to see whether according: to 
 costome the Duke of York receiv'd the communion with the King ; but 
 he did not, to the amazement of every body. This being the second 
 yeare he had forborn and put it off, and within a day of the Parliament 
 sitting, who had lately made so severe an Act against y e increase of 
 Poperie, gave exceeding griefe and scandal to the whole Nation, that 
 the heyre of it, and y e sonn of a Martyr for y e Protestant religion, 
 should apostatize. What the consequence of this will be, God onely 
 knows, and wise men dread. 
 
 11 April. I dined with the Plenipotentiaries designed for the Treaty 
 of Nimeguen. 
 
 17. I carried Lady Tuke to thank the Countesse of Arlington for 
 speaking to his Ma tv in her behalfe, for being one of y e Queene Con- 
 sort's women. She carried us up into her new dressing-roome at 
 Goring House, where was a bed, 2 glasses, silver jars and vases, 
 cabinets, and other so rich furniture as I had seldom seene ; to this 
 excesse of superfluity were we now ariv'd, and that not onely at Court, 
 but almost universally, even to wantonesse and profusion. 
 
 Dr. Compton, brother to the Earle of Northampton, preached on 
 1 Corinth: 11 — 16. shewing the Churches power in ordaining things 
 indifferent ; this worthy person's talent is not preaching, but he is like 
 to make a grave and serious good man *. 
 
 * Henry, sixth son of the second Earl of Northampton, educated at Oxford, was a cornet in 
 Lord Oxford's regiment of guards, took orders, and was successively Bishop of Oxford and 
 London, in which last See he died, 1713, aged 81. 
 
462 
 
 [1673- 
 
 I saw her Ma tJS rich toylet in her dressing roome, being all of massie 
 gold, presented to her by the King, valued at 4000/. 
 
 26. Dr. Lamplugh preached at St. Martine's, the holy Sacrament 
 following which I partook of, upon obligation of the late Act of Par- 
 liament, enjoy ning every body in office, civil or militarie, under penalty 
 of 500Z. to receive it within one moneth before two authentic^ wit- 
 nesses ; being engrossed on parchment, to be afterwards produced in 
 the Court of Chancery, or some other Court of Record ; which I did 
 at the Chancery Barr, as being one of the Council of Plantations and 
 Trade ; taking then also the Oath of Allegiance and Supremacy, 
 signing the clause in the said Act against Transubstantiation. 
 
 25 May. My sonn was made a younger Brother of the Trinity 
 House. The new Master was S r Jer. Smith, one of the Commiss rs of 
 the Navy, a stout seaman who had interpos'd and saved the Duke from 
 perishing by a fire-ship in the late warr. 
 
 28. I carried one Withers, an ingenious shipwright, to the King, 
 to shew him some new method of building. 
 
 29. I saw the Italian Comedie at the Court this afternoone. 
 
 10 June. Came to visite and dine w th me, my Lord Vis 1 Cornbury 
 and his Lady; Lady Frances Hyde, sister to the Dutchesse of York ; 
 and Mrs. Dorothy Howard, Mayd of Honour. We went after dinner 
 to see the formal and formidable camp on Blackheath, raised to invade 
 Holland, or, as others suspected, for another designe. Thence to the 
 Italian Glass-house at Greene wich, where glasse was blown of finer 
 mettal than that of Murano at Venice. 
 
 13. Came to visit us, with other ladies of rank, Mrs. Sedley*, 
 daughter to Sir Charles, who was none of the most virtuous, but a witt. 
 
 19. Congratulated the new Lord Treass r , S r Tho. Osborne, a gen- 
 tleman with whom I had ben intimately acquainted at Paris, and who 
 was every day at my father-in-law's house and table there, on which 
 account I was too confident of succeeding in his favour, as I had don 
 in his predecessor's ; but such a friend shall I never find, and I neg- 
 lected my time, far from believing that my Lord Clifford would have 
 
 * The Duke of York's mistress, and afterwards created by him Countess of Dorchester. 
 
463 
 
 so rashly laied down his staffe as he did, to the amazement of all the 
 world, when it came to the test of his receiving the communion, which 
 I am confident he forbore more from some promise he had enter'd into 
 to gratifie the Duke, than for any prejudice to the Protestant religion, 
 tho' I found him wavering a pretty while. 
 
 23. To London, to accompanie our Council, who went in a body 
 to congratulate the new Lord Treasurer, no friend to it, because pro- 
 moted by my L. Arlington, whom he hated. 
 
 26. Came visitors from Court to dine with me, and see the army 
 still remaining encamped on Black-heath. 
 
 6 July. This evening I went to the funerall of my deare and excel- 
 lent friend, that good man and accomplish'd gentleman, S 1 ' Rob*. 
 Murray*, Secretary of Scotland. He was buried by order of his Ma ty 
 in Westminster Abbey. 
 
 25. I went to Tunbridge Wells to visite my Lord Clifford, late 
 Lord Treass r , who was there to divert his mind more than his body ; 
 it was believ'd that he had so engag'd himselfe to the Duke, that 
 rather than take the test, without w ch he was not capable of holding 
 any office, he would resigne that greate and honourable station. This 
 I am confident griev'd him to y c heart, and at last broke it ; for tho' 
 he carried with him musiq and people to divert him, and when I came 
 to see him, lodged me in his own apartment, and would not let me 
 go from him, I found he was struggling in his mind, and being of a 
 rough and ambitious nature, he could not long brooke the necessitie he 
 had brought on himselfe, of submission to this conjuncture. Besides 
 he saw the Dutch warr, which was made much by his advise, as well 
 as the shutting up of the Exchequer f, very unprosperous. These 
 things his high spirit could not support. Having staied here 2 or 3 
 daies, I obtain'd leave of my Lord to returne. 
 
 * He was universally beloved and esteemed by men of all sides and sorts. The life and soul of 
 the Royal Society. He delighted in every occasion of doing good. He had a superiority of 
 genius and comprehension. Burnet, vol. I. p. 90. 
 
 t Burnet says the Earl of Shaftesbury was the chief man in this advice. There is a story, 
 though I do not recollect the author, that Shaftesbury formed the plan, that Clifford got at it 
 over a bottle of wine, and carried it to the King as his own. 
 
464 
 
 In my way I saw my Lord of I)orset's house at Knowle, near Seven- 
 oaks, a greate old-fashion'd house. 
 
 30. To Council, where the business of transporting wool was 
 brought before us. 
 
 31. I went to see the pictures of all the Judges and eminent men 
 of the long robe, newly painted by Mr. Wright, and set up in Guild- 
 hall, costing the Citty 1000/. Most of them are very like the persons 
 they represent, tho' I never took Wright to be any considerable artist. 
 
 13 Aug. I rid to Durdans, where I din'd at my Lord Berkley's 
 of Berkeley Castle, my old and noble friend, it being his wedding 
 anniversarie, where I found the Dutchesse of Albemarle and much 
 companie, and return'd home that evening late. 
 
 15. Came to visit me my Lord Chancellor, the Earle of Shaftesbury. 
 
 18. My Lord Clifford being about this time return'd from Tun- 
 bridge, and preparing for Devonshire, I went to take my leave of him 
 at Wallingford House ; he was packing up pictures, most of which 
 were of hunting wild beasts, and vast pieces of bull- baiting, beare- 
 baiting, &c. I found him in his study, and restored to him several 
 papers of state and others of importance, which he had furnished me 
 with, on engaging me to write the Historie of the Holland War, with 
 other private letters of his acknowledgments to my Lord Arlington, 
 who from a private gentleman of a very noble family, but inconsider- 
 able fortune, had advanc'd him from almost nothing. The first thing 
 was his being in Parliament, then knighted, then made one of the 
 Commissioners of the sick and wounded, on which occasion we sate 
 long together; then on the death of Hugh Pollard, he was made 
 Comptroller of the Household and Privy Counselor, yet still my bro- 
 ther Commiss r ; after the death of Lord Fitz-Harding, Treasurer of the 
 Household, he by letters to Lord Arlington, which that Lord shew'd 
 me, begg'd of his Lordship to obtaine it for him as the very height of 
 his ambition ; these were written with such submissions and profes- 
 sions of his patronage, as 1 had never seen any more acknowledging. 
 The Earle of Southampton then dying, he was made one of the Com- 
 missioners of the Treasury. His Majestie inclining to put it into one 
 hand, my Lord Clifford, under pretence of making all his interest for his 
 
 * 
 
1G73-] 
 
 465 
 
 patron my L' 1 Arlington, cutt the grasse under his feet, and procur'd 
 it for himself, assuring the King that Lord Arlington did not desire it. 
 Indeede my Lord Arlington protested to me that his confidence in 
 Lord Clifford made him so remisse, and his affection to him was so 
 particular, that he was absolutely minded to devolve it on Lord Clif- 
 ford, all the world knowing how he himselfe affected ease and quiet, 
 now growing into yeares, yet little thinking of this go-by. This was 
 the onely greate ingratitude Lord Clifford shew'd, keeping my Lord 
 Arlington in ignorance, continually assuring him he was pursuing his 
 interest, which was the Duke's, into whose greate favour Lord Clif- 
 ford was now gotten, but w cb certainly cost him the losse of all, namely, 
 his going so irrevocably far in his interest. For the rest, my Lord 
 Clifford was a valiant uncorrupt gentleman, ambitious, not covetous ; 
 generous, passionate, a most constant sincere friend, to me in parti- 
 cular, so as when he layd downe his office, I was at the end of all 
 my hopes and endeavours ; these were not for high matters, but to 
 obtain what his Ma^ was really indebted to my father-in-law, which 
 was the utmost of my ambition, and which I had undoubtedly ob- 
 tain'd if this friend had stood. Sir Tho. Osborn, who succeeded him, 
 tho' much more oblig'd to my father-in-law and his family, and my 
 long and old acquaintance, being of a more haughty and far lesse 
 obliging nature, I could hope for little ; a man of excellent natural 
 parts, but nothing of generous or grateful. 
 
 Taking leave of my Lord Clifford, he wrung me by the hand, and 
 looking earnestly on me, bid me God-b'ye, adding, " Mr. E. I shall 
 never see thee more;" " No !" said I, " my Lord, what's the meaning 
 of this ? I hope I shall see you often, and as greate a person againe." 
 " No, Mr. E. do not expect it, I will never see this place, this Citty 
 or Court againe," or words of this sound. In this manner, not with- 
 out almost mutual tears, I paited from him : nor was it long after, but 
 the newes was that he was dead, and I have heard from some who I 
 believe knew, he made himself away, after an extraordinary melan- 
 choly. This is not confidently affirm'd, but a servant who lived in the 
 house, and afterwards with Sir Rob 1 Clayton, Lord Mayor, did, as 
 well as others, report it ; and when I hinted some such thing to Mr. 
 
 vol. i. 3 o 
 
466 [1673- 
 
 Prideaux, one of his trustees, he was not willing to enter into that 
 discourse. It was reported with these particulars ; that causing his 
 servant to leave him unusually one morning, locking himselfe in, he 
 strangled himselfe with his cravatt upon the hed-tester; his servant not 
 liking the manner of dismissing him, and looking thro' the key-hole 
 (as 1 remember), and seeing his master hanging, brake in before he 
 was quite dead, and taking him downe, vomiting a greate deale of 
 bloud, he was heard to utter these words, " Well, let men say what 
 they will, there is a God, a just God above," after which he spake no 
 more. This, if true, is dismal. Really he was the cheife occasion of 
 the Dutch warr, and of all that bloud w dl was lost at Bergen in at- 
 taching the Smyrna fleete, and that whole quarrell. This leads me to 
 call to mind what my Lord Chancellor Shaftesbury affirm'd, not to me 
 onely, but to all my brethren the Councel of forraine plantations, when 
 not long after this accident being mention'd as we were one day sitting 
 in Councel, his Lordship told us this remarkeable passage ; that being- 
 one day discoursing with him when he was only Sir Tho. Clifford, 
 speaking of men's advancement to greate charges in the Nation, 
 " Well," says he, " my Lord, I shall be one of the greatest men in 
 England. Don't impute what I say either to fancy or vanity ; lam 
 certaine that I shall be a mighty man, but it will not last long; I shall 
 not hold it, but dye a bloudy death." " What," says my Lord, " your 
 horoscope tells you so ?" " No matter for that, it will be as I tell 
 you." " Well," says my Lord Chancellor Shaftesbury, " if 1 were of 
 that opinion, 1 either would not be a greate man. but decline prefer- 
 ment, or prevent my danger." This my Lord affirmed in my hearing 
 before severall gentlemen and noblemen sitting in Council at White- 
 hall. And I the rather am confident of it, remembering what Sir Edw. 
 Walker (Garter King at Armes) had likewise affirm'd to me a long 
 time before, even when he was first made a Lord ; that carrying his 
 pedigree to Lord Clifford on his being created a Peer, and finding him 
 busy, he bid him go into his study and divert himself there till he was 
 at leisure to discourse with him about some things relating to his fa- 
 mily ; there lay, said Sir Edward, on his table, his horoscope and nati- 
 vity calculated, with some writing under it, where he read that he 
 
1673-] 
 
 467 
 
 should be advanc'd to the highest degree in the State that could be con- 
 ferral upon him, but that he should not long enjoy it, but should die, 
 or expressions to that sense : and I think (but cannot confidently say) 
 a bloudy death. This Sir Edw d affirm'd both to me and Sir Rich. 
 Browne, nor could I forbeare to note this extraordinary passage in these 
 memoires. 
 
 14 Sept. Dr. Creighton, son to the late eloquent Bishop of Bath 
 and Wells, preached to the Household on 57 Isaiah 8. 
 
 15. I procured 4000/. of the Lords of the Treasury, and rectified 
 divers matters about the sick and wounded. 
 
 16. To Council, about choosing a new Secretary. 
 
 17. I went with some friends to visit Mr. Bernard Grenville at Abs 
 Court in Surrey ; an old house in a pretty parke*. 
 
 23. I went to see Paradise, a roome in Hatton Garden, furnished 
 with the representations of all sorts of animals handsomely painted on 
 boards or cloth, and so cut out and made to stand, move, fly, craw), 
 roare, and make their severall cries. The man who shewed it made 
 us laugh heartily at his formal poetrie. 
 
 15 Oct. To Council, and swore in Mr. Locke, secretary, Di 
 Worsley being dead. 
 
 27. To Council, about sending succours to recover New York : and 
 then we read the Commission and Instructions to Sir Jonathan Atkins, 
 the new Governor of Barbados. 
 
 5 Nov. This night the youths of the Citty burnt the Pope in effi- 
 gie, after they had made procession with it in greate triumph, they 
 being displeas'd at the Duke for altering his religion and marrying an 
 Italian ladyf . 
 
 On St. Andrew's Day I first saw the new Dutchesse of York, ana 
 the Dutchesse of Modena her mother. 
 
 1 Dec. To Gressham College, whither the Citty had invited the 
 Royal Society by many of their cheife Aldermen and Magistrates, who 
 gave us a collation, to welcome us to our first place of assembly, from 
 
 * At Walton on Thames. 
 
 t The Princess Mary Beatrice D'Este, daughter of the Duke of Modena. 
 
468 
 
 [1673- 
 
 whence we had ben driven to give place to the Citty, on their making 
 it their Exchange, on the dreadfull conflagration, till their new Ex- 
 change was finish'd, w ch it now was. The Society having till now ben 
 entertain'd and met at Arundel House. 
 
 2. I dined with some friends, and visited the sick : thence to an 
 almes- house where was prayers and reliefe, some very ill and miserable. 
 It was one of the best daies I ever spent in my life. 
 
 3. There was at dinner my Lord Lockart, design'd Ambassador for 
 France, a gallant and a sober person. 
 
 9. I saw againe the Italian Dutchesse and her brother the Prince 
 Reynaldo. 
 
 20. I had some discourse with certaine strangers, not unlearned, 
 who had ben born not far from Old Nineveh ; they assur'd me of the 
 ruines being still extant, and vast and wonderfull were the buildings, 
 vaults, pillars, and magnificent fragments ; but they could say little of 
 the Toure of Babel that satisfied me : but the description of the 
 amcenitie and fragrancy of the country for health and cherefullnesse 
 delighted me, so sensibly they spake of the excellent aire and climate 
 in respect of our cloudy and splenetic country. 
 
 24. Visited some prisoners at Ludgate, taking orders about the re- 
 leasing of some. 
 
 30. I gave Almighty God thanks for his infinite goodnesse to me 
 the yeare past, and begged his mercie and protection the yeare fol- 
 lowing : afterwards invited my neighbours to spend the day with me. 
 
 1674, 5 Jan. I saw an Italian Opera in muskj, the first that had 
 ben in England of this kind. 
 
 9. Sent for by his Ma^ to write something against the Hollanders 
 about the duty of the Flag and Fisherie. Return'd with some papers. 
 
 25 March. I dined at Knightsbridge with the Bishops of Salisbury, 
 Chester, and Lincoln, my old friends. 
 
 29 May. His Majestie's birth-day and Restauration. Mr. Demal- 
 hoy, Roger L'Estrange, and severall of my friends, came to dine with 
 me on the happy occasion. 
 
 27 June. Mr. Dryden, the famous Poet and now Laureat, came to 
 give me a visite. It was the anniversarie of my marriage, and the first 
 
iff 74.] 469 
 
 day I went into my new little cell and cabinet, w ch I built below to- 
 wards the South court, at the East end of the parlor. 
 
 9 July. Paid ^8.360 for purchase of Dr. Jacomb's son's share in 
 the mill and land at Deptford, which I bought of the Beechers. 
 
 22. I went to Windsor with my wife and sonn to see my daughter 
 Mary, who was there with my Lady Tuke, and to do my duty to his 
 Ma tv . Next day to a greate entertainment at S r Rob 1 Holmes's at 
 Cranburn Lodge in the Forest; there were his Ma^, the Queene, 
 Duke, Dutchesse, and all the Court. I return'd in the evening with S r 
 Joseph Williamson, now declar'd Secretary of State. He was sonn of 
 a poore clergyman somewhere in Cumberland, brought up at Queen's 
 Coll. On >rd, of which he came to be a fellow ; then travell'd with 
 
 and returning when the King was restor'd, was receiv'd as a 
 
 Cleark under Mr. Secretary Nicholas ; S r Henry Bennett (now Lord 
 Arlington) succeeding, Williamson is transferr'd to him, who loving 
 his ease more than businesse (tho' sufficiently able had he applied him- 
 selfe to it) remitted all to his man Williamson, and in a short time let 
 him so into the seacret of affaires, that (as his Lordship himselfe told 
 me) there was a kind of necessity to advance him ; and so by his sub- 
 tlety, dexterity, and insinuation, he got now to be principal Secre- 
 tary ; absolutely Lord Arlington's creature, and ungratefull enough. 
 It has ben the fate of this obliging favorite to advance those who soone 
 forgot their original. Sir Joseph was a musitian, could play at Jeu de 
 Goblets, exceeding formal, a severe master to his servants, but so in- 
 ward with my Lord Obrien, that after a few moneths of that gentle- 
 man's death, he married his widow*, who, being sister and heire of 
 the Duke of Richmond, brought him a noble fortune. 'Twas thought 
 they liv'd not so kindly after marriage as they did before. She was 
 much censur'd for marrying so meanly, being herselfe allied to the 
 Royal family. 
 
 * Lady Catherine Stuart, sister and heir to Charles Stuart, Duke of Richmond and Lenox, the 
 husband of that admired beauty Mrs. Frances Stuart, with whom Charles the Second was so deeply 
 in love, that he never forgave the Duke for marrying her, which, it is thought, he had formed some 
 intention of doing himself. He took the first opportunity of sending him into an honourable exile, 
 as Ambassador to Denmark, where he shortly after died, leaving no issue by the Duchess. 
 
470 
 
 [1074. 
 
 6 Aug. I went to Groombridge to see my old friend Mr. Packer, 
 the house built within a moate, in a woody vally. The old house had 
 ben the place of confinement of the Duke of Orleans, taken by one 
 Waller (whose house it then was) at the Battle of Agincourt, now de- 
 molish'd, and a new one built in its place, tho' a far better situation 
 had ben on the South of the wood, on a graceful ascent. At some small 
 distance is a large chapell, not long since built by Mr. Packer's father, 
 on a vow he made to do it on the return of King Charles I. out of 
 Spaine, 1625, and dedicated to St. Charles, but what saint there was 
 then of that name I am to seeke, for, being a Protestant, I conceive it 
 was not Borromeo. 
 
 I went to see my farme at Ripe neere Lewes. 
 
 19. His Ma tv told me how exceedingly the Dutch were displeas'd at 
 my treatise of the " Historie of Commerce"*; that the Holland Ambass r 
 had complain'd to him of what I had touch'd of the Flags and Fishery, 
 &c. and desired the booke might be call'd in ; whilst on the other side 
 he assur'd me he was exceedingly pleas'd with what I had done, and 
 gave me many thanks. However, it being just upon conclusion of the 
 treaty of Breda (indeed it was design'd to have ben publish'd some 
 moneths before, and when we were at defiance), his Ma tv told me he 
 must recall it formally, but gave order that what copies should be pub- 
 liqly seiz'd to pacifie the Ambass 1 ', should immediately be restor'd to the 
 Printer, and that neither he nor the vendor should be molested. The 
 truth is, that which touch'd the Hollander was much lesse than what 
 the King himselfe furnish'd me with, and oblig'd me to publish, having 
 caus'd it to be read to him before it went to the presse ; but the error 
 was, it should have ben publish'd before the peace was proclaim'd. The 
 noise of this book's suppression made it presently be bought up, and 
 turn'd much to the stationer's advantage. It was no other than the 
 Preface prepar'd to be prefix'd to my History of the whole Warr ; which 
 I now pursued no further. 
 
 * Entitled, " Navigation and Commerce, their Original and Progress, &c. By I. Evelyn, Esq. 
 S. R. S." 8vo, 1674. Dedicated to the King. This was, in fact, only the introduction to the 
 intended " History of the Dutch War." 
 
1674-] 471 
 
 21. In one of the meadows at the foote of the long Terrace below 
 the Castle [Windsor], works were thrown up to shew the King a re- 
 presentation of the Citty of Maestricht, newly taken by the French. 
 Bastions, bulwarks, ramparts, palisadoes, graffs, hornworks, counter- 
 scarps, &c. were constructed. It was attack'd by y e Duke of Mon- 
 mouth (newly come from that real siege) and y e Duke of York, with 
 a little army, to shew their skill in tactics. On Saturday night they 
 made their approches, open'd trenches, rais'd batteries, tooke the coun- 
 terscarp and ravelin after a stout defence ; greate gunns fir'd on both 
 sides, granados shot, mines sprung, parties sent out, attempts of rais- 
 ing the siege, prisoners taken, parleys, and in short all the circumstances 
 of a formal siege to appearance, and, what is most strange, all without 
 disorder or ill accident, to the greate satisfaction of a thousand specta- 
 tors. Being night, it made a formidable shew. The siege being over, 
 I went with Mr. Pepys back to London, where we arriv'd about 3 in 
 the morning. 
 
 15 Sept. To Council, about fetching away the English left at Suri- 
 nam, &c. since our reconciliation with Holland. 
 
 21. I went to see the greate losse that Lord Arlington had sustain'd 
 by fire at Goring House, this night consum'd to y° ground, with exceed- 
 ing losse of hangings, plate, rare pictures, and cabinets ; hardly any 
 thing was sav'd of the best and most princely furniture that any 
 subject had in England. My lord and lady were both absent at the 
 Bathe. 
 
 6 Oct. The Lord Chief Baron Turner, and Serjeant Wild, Recor- 
 der of London, came to visite me. 
 
 20. At Lord Berkeley's I discours'd with Sir Thomas Modi ford, 
 late Gov r of Jamaica, and with Col. Morgan, who undertooke that 
 gallant exploit from Nombre de Dios to Panama, on the Continent of 
 America ; he told me 10,000 men would easily conquer all the Spanish 
 Indies, they were so secure. They tooke greate booty, and much 
 greater had ben taken, had they not ben betraied and so disco ver'd 
 before their approch, by w ch the Spaniards had time to carry their vast 
 treasure on board ships that put off to sea in sight of our men, who had 
 no boates to follow. They set fire to Panama, and ravaged the country 
 
472 
 
 [1674. 
 
 60 miles about. The Spaniards were so supine and unexercis'd, that 
 they were afraid to fire a greate gun. 
 
 31. My birth-day, 54 th yeare of my life. Blessed be God. It was 
 also preparation-day for the holy Sacrament, in which I participated the 
 next day, imploring God's protection for the yeare following, and con- 
 firming my resolutions of a more holy life, even upon the Holy Booke. 
 The Lord assist and be gracious unto me. Amen. 
 
 15 Nov. The Anniversarie of my baptisme : I first heard that famous 
 and excellent preacher Dr. Burnet (author of the History of y e Refor- 
 mation) on 3 Coloss. 10, with such a flow of eloquence and fullness 
 of matter, as shew'd him to be a person of extraordinary parts. 
 
 The night being her Majesty's birth-day, the Court was exceeding 
 splendid in clothes and jewells, to the height of excesse. 
 
 1/. To Council, on the business of Surinam, where the Dutch had 
 detain'd some English in prison ever since the first war 1665. 
 
 19. I heard that stupendous violin, Sig r Nicholao (with other rare 
 musitians), whom I never heard mortal man exceed on that instrument. 
 He had a stroak so sweete, and made it speake like y e voice of a man, 
 and, when he pleas'd, like a consort of severall instruments. He did 
 wonders upon a note, and was an excellent composer. Here was also 
 that rare lutenist D r Wallgrave ; but nothing approch'd the violin in 
 Nicholao's hand. He plaied such ravishing things as astonish'd us all. 
 
 2 Dec. At Mr. Slingsby's, Master of the Mint, my worthy friend, 
 a greate lover of musiq. Heard Sig r Francisco on the harpsichord, 
 esteem'd one of the most excellent masters in Europe on that instru- 
 ment ; then came Nicholao with his violin, and struck all mute but 
 Mrs. Knight, who sung incomparably, and doubtlesse has the greatest 
 reach of any English woman ; she had lately ben roaming in Italy, and 
 was much improv'd in that quality. 
 
 15. Saw a comedie* at night at Court, acted by the ladies onely, 
 amongst them Lady Mary and Ann, his Royal Highnesses two daugh- 
 
 * This was the Masque of Calisto, or the Chaste Nymph," by John Crowns. The performers 
 in the piece were, the two daughters of the Duke of York, Lady Henrietta Wentworth (afterwards 
 mistress to the Duke of Monmouth), Countess of Sussex, Lady Mary Mordaunt, Mrs. Blagg, who 
 had been Maid of Honour to the Queen, and Mrs. Jennings, then Maid of Honour to the Duchess 
 
1675-] 4/"3 
 
 ters, and my dear friend Mrs. Blagg, who having the principal part, 
 perform'd it to admiration. They were all cover'd with jewells. 
 
 22. Was at the repetition of the Pastoral, on which occasion Mrs. 
 Blagg had about her neere ,^.20,000 worth of jewells, of which she 
 lost one worth about ,^.80, borrow'd of y e Countess of Suffolk. The 
 press was so greate, that 'tis a wonder she lost no more. The Duke 
 made it good. 
 
 16/5. 20 Jan. Went to see Mr. Streeter, that excellent painter 
 of perspective and landskip, to comfort and encourage him to be cut 
 for the stone, with which that honest man was exceedingly afflicted*. 
 
 22 Mar. Supp'd at S r William Petty's with the Bp. of Salisbury 
 and divers honorable persons. We had a noble entertainment in a 
 house gloriously furnish'd ; the master and mistress of it were extraor- 
 dinary persons. S r W m was the sonn of a meane man some where in 
 Sussex, and sent from schole to Oxon, where he studied Philosophy, 
 but was most eminent in Mathematics and Mechanics : proceeded D l 
 of Physick, and was grown famous, as for his learning so for his reco- 
 vering a poor w ench that had ben hanged for felony ; and her body 
 having ben begged (as the costome is) for the anatomie lecture, he bled 
 her, put her to bed to a warm woman, and with spirits and other 
 meanes restor'd her to lifef. The young scholars joyn'd and made her 
 a little portion, and married her to a man who had severall children by 
 her, she living 15 yeares after, as I have ben assur'd. S 1 ' W m came 
 
 of York, and who was afterwards the celebrated Duchess of Marlborough. The Duke of Mon- 
 mouth, Lord Dumblaine, Lord Daincourt, and others, were the dancers ; and Mrs. Davis, Mrs. 
 Knight, Mrs. Butler, and others, likewise acted and sung in the performance. Printed, London 
 1675, in 4to. 
 
 * The King, it is said, who had a great regard for this artist, sent for a famous surgeon from 
 Paris, on purpose to perform the operation. 
 
 t For a full account of this very remarkable event, see a pamphlet, entitled, " Newes from the 
 Dead, or a true and exact Narration of the miraculous Deliverance of Anne Greene, who being 
 executed at Oxford Dec. 14, 1650, afterwards revived j and by the care of certain Physicians there 
 is now perfectly recovered. Oxford, the second Impression, with Additions, 4to. 1651." Added 
 to the Narrative are several Copies of Verses in Latin, English, and French, by Gentlemen of the 
 University, commemorative of the story ; amongst others, one by Joseph Williamson, afterwards 
 Secretary of State, another by Christopher Wren, the famous architect, then of Wadham College, 
 Walter Pope, Dr. Ralph Bathurst (the last under other names), and many more. This was reprinted, 
 but very negligently, from the first and worst edition, in Morgan's " Phoenix Britannicus," 4to. 
 VOL. I. 3 P 
 
474 
 
 [1075- 
 
 from Oxon to be tutor to a neighbour of mine ; thence, when the 
 rebells were dividing their conquests in Ireland, he was employ'd by 
 them to measure and set out the land, which he did on an easy contract, 
 so much per acre. This he effected so exactly, that it not only furnish'd 
 him with a greate sum of mony, but enabled him to purchase an estate 
 worth <^.4000 a yeare. He afterwards married the daughter of Sir 
 Hardresse Waller ; she was an extraordinary witt as well as beauty, 
 and a prudent woman. 
 
 S r William, amongst other inventions, was author of the double-bot- 
 tom'd ship*, w ch tho' it perish'd, and he was censur'd for rashnesse, 
 being lost in the Bay of Biscay in a storme when, I think, 15 other 
 vessells miscarried. This vessell was flat-bottom'd, of exceeding use to 
 put into shallow ports, and ride over small depths of water. It con- 
 sisted of 2 distinct keeles crampt together with huge timbers, &c. so as 
 that a violent streame ran betweene ; it bare a monstrous broad saile, 
 and he still persists that it is practicable and of exceeding use ; and he 
 has often told me he would adventure himselfe in such another, could 
 he procure sailors, and his Ma t)S permission to make a second Experi- 
 ment, which name the King gave it at the launching. 
 
 The Map of Ireland made by Sir William Petty is believ'd to be the 
 most exact that ever yet was made of any country. He did promise to 
 publish it ; and I am told it has cost him neare 5^.1000 to have it 
 engrav'd at Amsterdam. There is not a better Latine poet living when 
 he gives himselfe that diversion ; nor is his excellence less in Council 
 and prudent matters of state ; but he is so exceeding nice in sifting 
 and examining all possible contingencies, that he adventures at nothing 
 which is not demonstration. There were not in y e whole world his 
 equal for a superintendant of manufacture and improvement of trade, or 
 to govern a Plantation. If I were a Prince, I should make him my 
 second Counsellor at least. There is nothing difficult to him. He is 
 besides courageous, on which account I cannot but note a true storie of 
 him, that when S r Aleyn Brodrick sent him a challenge upon a differ- 
 ence 'twixt them in Ireland, S r William, tho' exceedingly purblind, 
 accepted the challenge, and it being his part to propound the weapon, 
 
 * See pp. 362, 3?0. 
 
475 
 
 desir'd his antagonist to meete him with a hatchet or axe in a dark 
 cellar, which the other of course refused. Sir William was, with all 
 this, facetious and of easy conversation, friendly and courteous, and had 
 such a faculty of imitating others, that he would take a text and preach, 
 now like a grave orthodox divine, then falling into the Preshyterian 
 way, then to the phanatical, the quaker, the monk and frier, the 
 Popish priest, with such admirahle action, and alteration of voice and 
 tone, as it was not possible to abstain from wonder, and one would 
 sweare to heare severall persons, or forbear to think he was not in good 
 earnest an enthusiast and almost beside himselfe ; then he would fall 
 out of it into a serious discourse ; but it was very rarely he would be 
 prevail'd on to oblige the company with this faculty, and that only 
 amongst most intimate friends. My Lord Duke of Ormond once 
 obtain'd it of him, and was almost ravish'd with admiration ; but by 
 and by he fell upon a serious reprimand of the faults and miscarriages 
 of some Princes and Governors, which tho' he nam'd none, did so 
 sensibly touch the Duke, who was then Lieutenant of Ireland, that he 
 began to be very uneasy, and wish'd the spirit lay'd which he had 
 rais'd, for he was neither able to endure such truthes, nor could he but 
 be delighted. At last he mealted his discourse to a ridiculous subject, 
 and came down from the joynt stoole on which he had stood ; but my 
 lord would not have him preach any more. He never could get favour 
 at Court, because he outwitted all the projectors that came neere him. 
 Having never known such another genius, I cannot but mention these 
 particulars amongst a multitude of others which I could produce. When 
 I who knew him in mean circumstances have ben in his splendid palace, 
 he would himselfe be in admiration how he ariv'd at it ; nor was it 
 his value or inclination for splendid furniture and the curiosities of the 
 age, but his elegant lady could endure nothing meane, or that was not 
 magnificent. He was very negligent himselfe, and rather so of his 
 person, and of a philosophic temper. " What a to-do is here !" would 
 he say, "I can lie in straw with as much satisfaction." 
 
 He is author of the ingenious deductions from the bills of mortality, 
 which go under the name of Mr. Graunt ; also of that useful discourse 
 of the manufacture of wool, and several others in the register of the 
 
476 [1675. 
 
 Royal Society. He was also author of that paraphrase on the 104th 
 Psalm in Latin verse, which goes about in MS. and is inimitable. In 
 a word, there is nothing impenetrable to him. 
 
 26 March. Dr. Brideoake was elected Bishop of Chichester on the 
 translation of Dr. Gunning to Ely. 
 
 30. Dr. Allestree preached on 6 Romans 3. the necessitie of those 
 who are baptized to die to sinn ; a very excellent discourse from an 
 excellent preacher. 
 
 25 April. Dr. Barrow*, that excellent, pious, and most learned 
 man, divine, mathematician, poet, traveller, and most humble person, 
 preach'd at White-hall to y e household, on 20 Luke 27, of love and 
 charitie to our neighbours. 
 
 29. I read my first discourse " Of Earth and Vegetation" before y e 
 Royall Society as a lecture in course after Sir Rob. Southwell had read 
 his the weeke before On Water. I was commanded by our President 
 and the suffrage of the Society to print it. 
 
 16 May. This day was my deare friend Mrs. Blagg married at the 
 Temple Church to my friend Mr. Sidney Godolphin, Groome of the 
 Bed-Chamber to his Majesty. 
 
 18. I went to visite one Mr. Bathurst, a Spanish merchant, my 
 neighbour. 
 
 31. I went with Lord Ossorie to Deptford, where we chose him 
 Master of the Trinity Company. 
 
 2 June. I was at a conference of the Lords and Commons in the 
 Painted Chamber, on a difference about imprisoning some of their 
 members : and on the 3d, at another conference, when the Lords ac- 
 cused the Commons for their transcendant misbehaviour, breach of 
 privilege, Magna Charta, subversion of government, and other high, 
 provoking, and diminishing expressions, shewing what duties and 
 subjection they owed to the Lords in Parliament by record of Hen. IV. 
 This was likely to create a notable disturbance. 
 
 15. This afternoone came Mons r Querouaille and his lady, parents 
 to the famous beauty and ***** favorite at Court, to see S r R 
 
 * Master of Trinity College, Cambridge ; succeeded Dr. John Pearson, made Bishop of Chester. 
 
1675-] 
 
 477 
 
 Browne, with whom they were intimately acquainted in Bretagne, at 
 the time S r Richard was sent to Brest to supervise his Ma t,s sea affaires, 
 during the later part of the King's hanishment. This gentleman's 
 house was not a mile from Brest ; S r Richard made an acquaintance 
 there, and being used very civily, was obliged to returne it here, which 
 we did. He seem'd a souldierly person and a good fellow, as the Bre- 
 tons generally are ; his lady had ben very handsome, and seem'd a 
 shrewd understanding woman. Conversing with him in our garden, I 
 found severall words of the Breton language the same with our Welch. 
 His daughter was now made Dutchess of Portsmouth and in the height 
 of favour, but he never made any use of it. 
 
 27- At Ely House, I went to the consecration of my worthy friend 
 the learned Dr. Barlow, Warden of Queenes Coll. Oxon, now made 
 Bishop of Lincoln. After it, succeeded a magnificent feast, where 
 were the D. of Ormond, E. of Lauderdail, the Lord Tress 1- , Lord 
 Keeper, &c. 
 
 8 July. I went with Mrs. Howard and her two daughters towards 
 Northampton Assizes, about a tryal at law, in which I was concerned 
 for them as a Trustee. We lay this night at Henly on the Thames at 
 our attorney Mr. Stephens's, who entertain'd us very handsomely. — 
 Next day, dining at Shotover at S r Tim. Tyrill's, a sweete place, we 
 lay at Oxford, where it was the time of the Act. Mr. Rob 1 Spencer, 
 unkle to the Earle of Sunderland, and my old acquaintance in France, 
 entertain'd us at his apartment in Christ Church, with exceeding ge- 
 nerosity. — The 10th, the Vice-Chancellor Dr. Bathurst (who had for- 
 merly taken particular care of my sonn), President of Trinity Colledge, 
 invited me to dinner, and did me greate honour all the time of my stay. 
 The next day he invited me and all my company, tho' strangers to him, 
 to a very noble feast. I was at all the academic exercises. — Sonday, at 
 St. Maries, preach'd a Fellow of Brazen-nose, not a little magnifying 
 the dignity of Church-men. — The 11th, we heard the speeches, and 
 saw y e ceremony of creating Doctors in Divinity, Law, and Physic, 
 I had early in the morning heard Dr. Morison, Botanic Professor, 
 reade on divers plants in the Physic Garden ; and saw that rare collec- 
 tion of natural curiosities of Dr. Plot's, of Magdalen Hall, author of 
 
478 
 
 u The Natural History of Oxfordshire," all of them collected in that 
 Shire, and indeede extraordinary, that in one County there should be 
 found such varietie of plants, shells, stones, minerals, marcasites, fouls, 
 insects, models of works, chrystals, achates, and marbles. He was 
 now intending to visite Staffordshire, and as he had of Oxfordshire, to 
 give us the natural, topical, political, and mechanical history. Pitty 
 it is that more of this industrious man's genius were not employ'd so 
 to describe every County of England ; it would be one of the most 
 usefull and illustrious workes that was ever produc'd in any age or 
 nation. 
 
 I visited also the Bodleian Library, and my old friend the learned 
 Obadiah Walker*, head of University Coll. which he had now almost 
 rebuilt or repair'd. We then proceeded to Northampton, where we 
 arived the next day. 
 
 In this journey went part of the way Mr. Ja. Graham (since Privy 
 Purse to the Duke), a young gentleman exceedingly in love with Mrs. 
 Dorothy Howard, one of the Mayds of Honour in our company -f\ I 
 could not but pitty them both, the mother not much favouring it. 
 This lady was not onely a greate beauty, but a most virtuous and ex- 
 cellent creature, and worthv to have ben wife to the best of men. My 
 advice was required, and I spake to the advantage of the young gen- 
 tleman, more out of pitty than that she deserv'd no better match, for 
 tho' he was a gentleman of a good family, yet there was greate 
 inequality. 
 
 14. I went to see my Lord Sunderland's seat at Althorp, 4 miles 
 from the ragged towne of Northampton (since burned, and well re- 
 built). 'Tis placed in a pretty open bottome, very finely watred and 
 flanqued with stately woods and groves in a parke, with a canall, but 
 the water is not running, which is a defect. The house a kind of mo- 
 dern building of freestone, within most nobly furnished. The apart- 
 ments very commodious, a gallerie and noble hall, but the kitchen be- 
 ing in the body of the house, and chapell too small, were defects. 
 There is an old yet honorable gate -house standing awry, and out- 
 
 * See p. <235. 
 
 f He afterwards married her. See p. 479, note. 
 
1675.] 479 
 
 housing meane, but designed to be taken away. It was moated round 
 after the old manner, but it is now dry, and turfed with a beautifull 
 carpet. Above all are admirable and magnificent the severall ample 
 gardens furnish'd with the choicest fruite, and exquisitely kept. Greate 
 plenty of oranges and other curiosities. The parke full of foule, espe- 
 cialy hemes, and from it a prospect to Holmby House, which being 
 demolish'd in the late civil warrs, shews like a Roman ruine, shaded 
 by the trees about it, a stately, solemn, and pleasing view. 
 
 15. Our cause was pleaded in behalfe of the mother, Mrs. Howard* 
 and her daughters, before Baron Thurland, who had formerly ben 
 steward of Courts for me ; we carried our cause, as there was reason, 
 for here was an imprudent as well as disobedient sonn against his mo- 
 ther, by instigation doubtlesse of his wife, one Mrs. Ogle (an ancient 
 maid}, whom he had clandestinely married, and who brought him no 
 fortune, he being heire apparent of the Earle of Berkshire. We lay at 
 Brickhill in Bedfordshire, and came late next day to our journey's end. 
 
 This was a journey of adventures and knight errantry. One of the 
 lady's servants being as desperately in love with Mrs. Howard's woman 
 as Mr. Graham was with her daughter, and she riding on horseback 
 behind his rival, the amorous and jealous youth having a little drink in 
 his pate, had here killed himselfe had he not ben prevented ; for, 
 alighting from his horse, and drawing his sword, he endeavoured twice 
 or thrice to fall on it, but was interrupted by our coachman and a 
 stranger passing by. After this, running to his rival and snatching 
 his sword from his side (for we had beaten his owne out of his hand), 
 and on the suddaine pulling downe his mistresse, would have run both 
 
 * Mrs. Howard was widow of William fourth son of the first Earl of Berkshire, being the 
 daughter of Lord Dundas of the kingdom of Scotland. They had one son Craven Howard, and 
 two daughters, Dorothy, who married Col. James Grehme of Levens in Westmoreland ; and 
 Anne, who married Sir Gabriel Sylvius, Knt. Craven married two wives, the first of which was 
 Anne, daughter of Tho. Ogle of Pinchbeck, co. Line. Esq. ; then maid of honour to Queen 
 Catherine. Collins's Peerage, vol. II. pp. 139, 140, edit. 1735. 
 
 These two daughters are the ladies here mentioned by Mr. Evelyn ; but he is not correct in 
 calling Craven heir apparent of the Earl of Berks, who besides the uncle then in possession of the 
 title, there was another uncle before him, who in fact inherited it, and did not die till many 
 years after. 
 
480 
 
 [1^75. 
 
 of them thro' ; we parted them, but riot without some bloody This 
 miserable creature poyson'd himselfe for her not many daies after they 
 came to London. 
 
 19. The Lord Tress r3 Chaplaine preached at Wallingford House. 
 
 9 Aug. Dr. Sprat, prebend of Westminster and Chaplain to the 
 Duke of Buckingham, preached on the 3 rd Epistle of Jude, shewing 
 what the primitive faith was, how neere it and how excellent that of 
 the Church of England, also the danger of departing from it. 
 
 27. I visited the Bishop of Rochester at Bromely, and dined at S l 
 Philip Warwick's at Frogpoole [Frognall]. 
 
 2 Sept. I went to see Dulwich Colledge, being the pious foundation 
 of one Allen, a famous Comedian in King James's time. The Chapell 
 is pretty, the rest of the Hospital very ill contriv'd ; it yet maintaines 
 divers poore of both sexes. 'Tis in a melancholy part of Camerwell 
 parish. I came back by certaine medicinal Spa waters, at a place called 
 Sydnam Wells in Lewisham parish, much frequented in Summer. 
 
 10. I was casually shewed the Dutchesse of Portsmouth's splendid 
 appartment at White-hall, luxuriously furnished, and with ten times 
 the richnesse and glory beyond the Queenes ; such massy pieces of 
 plate, whole tables, & stands of incredible value. 
 
 29. I saw the Italian Scaramucchio act before y e King at White- 
 hall, people giving money to come in, which was very scandalous, and 
 never so before at Court diversions. Having seene him act before in 
 Italy, many yeares past, 1 was not averse from seeing the most excel- 
 lent of that kind of folly. 
 
 14 Oct. Din'd at Kensington with my old acquaintance Mr. Hen- 
 ehaw, newly return'd from Denmark, where he had ben left resident 
 after the death of the Duke of Richmond, who died there Ambassador. 
 
 15. I got an extreme cold, such as was afterwards so epidemical, as 
 not only to afflict us in this island, but was rife over all Europe, like a 
 plague. It was after an exceeding dry summer and autumn. 
 
 I settled affaires, my sonn being to go into France with my Lord 
 Berkeley, design'd Ambass r extraordinary for France and Plenipoten- 
 tiary for the general treaty of peace at Nimeguen. 
 
481 
 
 24. Din'd at Lord Chamberlain's with the Holland Ambass r L. 
 Duras, a valiant gent" whom his Ma^ made an English Baron, of a 
 cadet, and gave him his seate of Holmby in Northamptonshire* [since 
 Earle of Feversham]. 
 
 27. Lord Berkeley coming into Council, fell downe in the gallerie 
 at White-hall in a fit of apoplexie, and being carried into my Lord 
 Chamberlaines lodgings, severall famous doctors were employed all that 
 night, and with much ado he was at last recover'd to some sense, by 
 applying hot fire-pans and spirit of amber to his head, but nothing was 
 found so effectual as cupping him on the shoulders. It was an almost 
 miraculous restauration. The next dav he was carried to Berkeley 
 House. This stopp'd his journey for the present, and caused my stay 
 in towne. He had put all his affaires and his whole estate in England 
 into my hands during his intended absence, which tho' I was very unfit 
 to undertake, in reguard of many tmsinesses which then took me up, 
 yet upon the greate importunity of my lady and Mr. Godolphin (to 
 whom I could refuse nothing) I did take it on me. It seemes when he 
 was Deputy in Ireland, not long before, he had ben much wronged by 
 one he left in trust with his affaires, and therefore wished for some 
 un mercenary friend who would take that trouble on him ; this was to 
 receive his rents, look after his houses and tenants, solicite supplies 
 from the Lord Treass 1 ", and correspond weekly with him, more than 
 enough to employ any drudge in England ; but what will not friend- 
 ship and love make one do? 
 
 31. Din'd at my Lord Chamberlain's with my sonn. There were 
 the learned Isaac Vossius and Spanhemius, son of the famous man of 
 Heidelburg, nor was this gentleman less learned, being a generall 
 scholar. Amongst other pieces he was author of an excellent treatise 
 on Medails. 
 
 10 Nov. Being y e day appointed for my Lord Ambass r to set out, 
 I met them with my coach at New Crosse. There were with him my 
 Lady his wife and my deare friend Mrs. Godolphin, who out of an 
 extraordinary friendship would needes accompany my lady to Paris, and 
 
 vol. 1. 
 
 * See Bridges's Northamptonshire, vol. I. p. 526. 
 3 Q 
 
482 
 
 [1^75. 
 
 stay with her sometime, which was the chiefe inducement for permitting 
 my sonn to travel, but I knew him safe under her inspection, and in 
 reguard my Lord himselfe had promis'd to take him into his special 
 favour, he having intrusted all he had to my care. 
 
 Thus we set out, 3 coaches (besides mine), 3 waggons, and about 
 forty horse. It being late, and my lord as yet but valetudinarie, we got 
 but to Dartford the first day ; the next to Sittingbourne. 
 
 At Rochester, the major, Mr. Cony, then an officer of mine for the 
 sick and wounded of that place, gave the ladies a handsome refresh- 
 ment as we came by his house. 
 
 12. We came to Canterbury, and next morning to Dover. 
 
 There was in my Lady Ambassadresses company my Lady Hamilton, 
 a sprightly young lady, much in the good graces of the family, wife of 
 that valiant and worthy gentleman Geo. Hamilton, not long after 
 slaine in the warrs. She had ben a maid of honour to the Dutchesse, 
 and now turn'd Papist. 
 
 14. Being Sonday, my Lord having before deliver'd to me his 
 letter of attorney, keyes, seale, and his will, we tooke solemn leave 
 of one another upon the beach, the coaches carrying them into the sea 
 to the boats, which deliver'd them to Capt. Gunman's yatcht the Mary. 
 Being under saile, the castle gave them I J gunns, which Capt. Gunman 
 answered with 11. Hence I went to Church, to beg a blessing on 
 their voyage. 
 
 2 Dec. Being returned home, I visited Lady Mordaunt at Parsons 
 Greene, my Lord her sonn being sick. This pious woman deliver'd to 
 me «s£100. to bestow as I thought fit for y e release of poore prisoners 
 and other charitable uses. 
 
 21. Visited her Ladyship againe, where I found the Bp. of Win- 
 chester, whom I had long known in France : he invited me to his 
 house at Chelsey. 
 
 23 Dec. Lady Sunderland gave me ten guineas to bestow in charities. 
 
 1676, 20 Feb. Dr. Gunning, Bishop of Ely, preached before the 
 King from 20 St. John 21, 22, 23. chiefly against an anonymous booke 
 called " Naked Truth," a famous and popular treatise against the corrup- 
 tion in y e Cleargie, but not sound as to its quotations, supposed to have 
 
1676.] 
 
 483 
 
 ben the Bishop of Hereford's [Dr. Herbert Croft], and was answered 
 by Dr. Turner, it endeavoring to prove an equality of order of Bishop 
 and Presbyter. 
 
 27. Dr. Pritchard, Bp. of Glocester, preached at White-hall on 
 5 Isaiah 5. very allegorically according to his manner, yet very gravely 
 and wittily. 
 
 29 Feb. I din'd with Mr. Povey, one of the Masters of Requests, a 
 nice contriver of all elegances, and exceedingly formall. Supped with 
 Sir J. Williamson, where were of our Society Mr. Robert Boyle, Sir 
 Christ. Wren, Sir W m . Petty, Dr. Holden, sub-dean of his Majesty's 
 Chapell, Sir James Shaen, Dr. Whistler, and our Secretary Mr. 
 Oldenburg. 
 
 4 Mar. Sir Tho s Linch was returned from his government of 
 Jamaica. 
 
 16. The Countesse of Sunderland and I went by water to Parsons 
 Greene to visite my Lady Mordaunt, and to consult with her about my 
 Lord's monument. We return'd by coach. 
 
 19. Dr. Lloyd, late Curate at Deptford, but now Bishop of Llan- 
 daflp, preached before the King on 1 Cor. 15. 57- that tho' sin subjects 
 us to Death, yet thro' Christ we become his conquerors. 
 
 24. Dr. Brideoak*, Bp. of Chichester, preach'd ; a mean discourse 
 for a Bishop. I also heard Dr. Fleetwood, Bp. of Worcester, on 26 
 Matt. 38. of the sorrows of Christ, a deadly sorrow caused by our sinns; 
 he was no great preacher. 
 
 23. To Twickenham Park, Lord Berkeley's country seate, to 
 examine how the bailiffs and servants ordered matters. 
 
 30. Dining with my La. Sunderland, I saw a fellow swallow a 
 knife, and divers great pebble stones, which would make a plaine 
 rattling one against another. The knife was in a sheath of horne. 
 
 Dr. North, sonn to my Lord North, preach'd before the King on 
 53 Isaiah 57- a very young but learned and excellent person. Note. 
 This was the first time the Duke appeared no more in Chapell, to the 
 infinite griefe and threatned mine of this poore Nation. 
 
 * Ralph Brideoake, Dean of Salisbury, succeeded Bp. Gunning in the See. 
 
484 
 
 [1676. 
 
 2 April. I had now notice that my deare friend Mrs. Godolphin 
 was returning from Paris. On the 6th she arived to my greate joy, 
 whom I most heartily welcomed. 
 
 28 April. My wife entertain'd her Ma 1 > at Deptford, for which the 
 Queene gave me thanks in the withdrawing-roome at White-hall. 
 
 The University of Oxford presented me with the " Marmora Oxoni- 
 ensia Arundelliana ;" the Bp. of Oxford writing to desire that I would 
 introduce Mr. Prideaux the Editor (a young man most learned in 
 Antiquities) to the Duke of Norfolk, to present another dedicated to 
 his Grace, which I did, and we din'd with the Duke at Arundel House, 
 and supp'd at the Bp. of Rochester's with Isaac Vossius. 
 
 7 May. I spoke to the Duke of York about my Lo. Berkeley's 
 going to Nimeguen. Thence to the Queene's Council at Somerset 
 House, about Mrs. Godolphin's lease of Spalding in Lincolnshire. 
 
 11. I dined with Mr. Charleton, and went to see Mr. Mountague's 
 new palace neere Bloomsbury, built by Mr. Hooke of our Society 
 after the French manner *. 
 
 13. Return'd home and found my son come from France, praised 
 be God. 
 
 22. Trinity Monday. A chaplain of my Lord Ossorie's preach'd, 
 after w ch we took barge to Trinity House in London. Mr. Pepys 
 (Secretary of the Admiralty) succeeded my Lord as Master. 
 
 2 June. I went with my Lord Chamberlaine to see a garden at 
 Enfield towne ; thence to Mr. Secretary Coventry's lodge in the Chace. 
 It is a very pretty place, the house commodious, the gardens hand- 
 some, and our entertainment very free, there being none but my Lord 
 and myselfe. That which I most wondered at was, that in the compass 
 of 25 miles, yet within 14 of London, there is not an house, barne, 
 church, or building, besides three lodges. To this Lodge are three 
 greate ponds and some few inclosures, the rest a solitarie desert, yet 
 stor'd with not lesse than 3000 deere. These are pretty retreats 
 for gentlemen, especialy for those who are studious and lovers of 
 privacy. 
 
 * Now the British Museum. 
 
1 676.] 
 
 485 
 
 We return'd in the evening by Hamsted, to see Lord Wotton's house 
 and garden *, built with vast expense by Mr. O'Neale, an Irish gent" 
 who married Lord Wotton's mother Lady Stanhope. The furniture 
 is very particular for Indian cabinets, porcelane, and other solid and 
 noble moveables. The gallery very fine, y° gardens very large, but ill 
 kept, yet woody and chargeable. The soil a cold weeping clay, not 
 answering the expence. 
 
 12 June. I went to S r Tho. Bond's new and fine house by Peck- 
 ham ; it is on a flat, but has a fine garden and prospect thro' the mea- 
 dows to London. 
 
 2 July. Dr. CastHlion, Prebend of Canterbury, preached before the 
 King on 1 5 John 22. at White-hall. 
 
 19. Went to the funeral of S r William Sanderson, husband to y c 
 mother of the Maids f , and author of two large but meane histories 
 of King James and K. Charles the First. He was buried at West- 
 minster. 
 
 1 Aug. In the afternoone, after prayers at St. James's Chapell, was 
 christned a daughter of Dr. Leakes, the Duke's Chaplaine : Godmo- 
 thers were Lady Mary, daughter of the Duke of York, and the Dut- 
 chesse of Monmouth ; Godfather, the Earle of Bathe. 
 
 15. Came to dine with me my Lord Halifax, Sir Thomas Meeres, 
 one of the Commissioners of the Admiralty, Sir John Clayton, Mr. 
 Slingsby, Mr. Henshaw, and Mr. Bridgeman. 
 
 25. Din'd with Sir John Banks at his house in Lincoln's Inn 
 Fields, on recommending Mr. Upman to be tutor to his sonn going into 
 France. This Sir John Banks was a merchant of small beginning, but 
 had amass'd 100,000/. 
 
 26. I din'd at y e Admiralty with Secretary Pepys, and supp'd at 
 the Lord Chamberlaines. Here was Capt. Baker, who had ben lately 
 on the attempt of the North West Passage. He reported prodigious 
 depth of ice, blew as a sapphire, and as transparent. The thick mists 
 were their cheife impediment and cause of their returne. 
 
 * Belsize House. 
 
 f The Queen's Maids of Honour; there is or lately was a place with that title. (1816.) 
 
 v 
 
486 [1676. 
 
 2 Sept. I paid If 001. to y e Marquiss de Sissac, which he had lent 
 to my Lord Berkeley, and which I heard the Marquiss lost at play in 
 a night or two. 
 
 The Dean of Chichester preach'd before the King on 24 Acts 16 ; and 
 Dr. Crighton preach'd y e second sermon before him on 90 Psalm 12. 
 of wisely numbering our daies and well employing our time. 
 
 3. Dined at Capt. Graham's, where I became acquainted with Dr. 
 Compton, brother to the Earle of Northampton, now Bishop of London, 
 and Mr. North, sonn to the Lord North, brother to the L d Cheife 
 Justice and Clerke of the Closet, a most hopefull young man. The 
 Bishop had once ben a souldier, had also travel'd Italy, and became a 
 most sober, grave, and excellent prelate. 
 
 6. Supped at the Lord Chamberlaine's, where also supped the 
 famous beauty and errant lady the Dutchesse of Mazarine (all the 
 world knows her storie), the Duke of Monmouth, Countesse of Sussex 
 (both natural children of the King by the Dutchess of Cleaveland*), 
 and y e Countesse of Derby, a virtuous lady, daughter to my best friend 
 the Earle of Ossorie. 
 
 10 Sept. Din'd with me Mr. Flamsted, the learned astrologer and 
 mathematician, whom his Ma tv had establish'd in the new Observatorie 
 in Greenewich Park furnish'd with the choicest instruments. An 
 honest, sincere man. 
 
 12. To London, to take order about the building of an house, or 
 rather an appartment which had all the conveniencies of an house, for 
 my deare friend Mr. Godolphin and lady, which I undertooke to con- 
 trive and survey, and employ workmen 'till it should be quite finished ; 
 it being just over against his Majesties wood yard by the Thames side, 
 leading to Scotland yard. 
 
 19. To Lambeth, to that rare magazine of marble, to take order 
 for chimney-pieces, &c. for Mr. Godolphin's house. The owner of the 
 
 * Mr. Evelyn forgot himself here. The Duke of Monmouth's mother was, it is well known, 
 Mrs. Lucy Walters, who was sometimes called Mrs. Barlow (mentioned before). Lady Anne 
 Fitzroy, as she is called in the books of Peerage, was married to Lennard Dacre, Earl of Sussex, 
 by whom she left a daughter only, who succeeded on her father's death to the Barony of Dacre. 
 Mr. Evelyn probably meant to speak of either the Duke of Southampton, the Duke of Grafton, or 
 the Duke of Northumberland, all of whom Charles the Second had by the Duchess of Cleaveland. 
 
1676.] 
 
 487 
 
 workes had built for himselfe a pretty dwelling-house ; this Dutchman 
 had contracted with the Genoese for all their marble. We also saw 
 the Duke of Buckingham's Glasse-worke, where they made huge vases 
 of mettal as cleare, ponderous and thick as chrystal ; also looking- 
 glasses far larger and better than any that come from Venice. 
 
 9 Oct. I went with Mrs. Godolphin and my wife to Black-wall, to 
 see some Indian curiosities ; the streetes being slippery I fell against 
 a piece of timber with such violence that I could not speake nor fetch 
 my breath for some space : being carried into an house and let bloud, 
 I was removed to the water side and so home, where after a daies rest 
 I recovered. This being one of my greatest deliverances, the Lord 
 Jesus make me ever mindfull and thankfull. 
 
 31. Being my birth-day, and 56 yeares old, I spent the morning 
 in devotion and imploring God's protection, w h solemn thanksgiving for 
 all his signal mercies to me, especially for that escape which concerned 
 me this moneth at Black-wall. Dined with Mrs. Godolphin, and re- 
 turned home through a prodigious and dangerous mist. 
 
 9 Nov. Finish'd y e lease of Spalding for Mr. Godolphin. 
 
 16. My sonn and I dining at my Lord Chamberlaine's, he shew'd 
 us amongst others that incomparable piece of Raphael's, being a Mi- 
 nister of State dictating to Guicciardini, the earnestness of whose face 
 looking up in expectation of what he was next to write is so to the 
 life, and so naturall, as I esteeme it one of the choicest pieces of that 
 admirable artist. There was a Woman s head of Leonardo da Vinci ; 
 a Madona of old Palma, and two of Van-Dyke's, of which one was his 
 owne picture at length, when young, in a leaning posture ; the other 
 an Eunuch singing. Rare pieces indeede. 
 
 4 Dec. I saw the greate ball daunced by all the gallants and ladyes 
 at the Dutchesse of York's. 
 
 1 0 Dec. There fell so deep a snow as hinder'd us from church. 
 
 12. To London, in so great a snow as I remember not to have 
 seene the like. 
 
 17. More snow falling, I was not able to get to church. 
 
 1677? 8 Feb. I went to Roehampton with my lady Dutchesse of 
 Ormond. The garden and perspective is pretty, the prospect most 
 agreeable. 
 
488 
 
 [1677- 
 
 15 May. Came the Earle of Peterborough to desire me to be a 
 Trustee for Lord Vise. Mordaunt and the Countesse, for y e sale of 
 certaine lands set out by Act of Parliament to pay debts. 
 
 12. I went to London to give the Lo. Amb r Berkeley (now re- 
 turn'd from the Treaty at Nimeguen) an account of the greate trust 
 repos'd in me during his absence, I having receiv'd and remitted to 
 him no lesse than 20,000/. to my no small trouble and losse of time, 
 that during his absence and when the Lord Treasurer was no greate 
 friend [of his] I yet procur'd him greate sums, very often soliciting his 
 Ma^ in his behalfe ; looking after the rest of his estate and concernes 
 intirely, without once accepting any kind of acknowledgment, purely 
 upon the request of my dear friend Mr. Godolphin. I return'd with 
 abundance of thanks and professions from my Lo. Berkeley and my 
 Lady. 
 
 29. This business being now at an end and myself deliver'd from 
 that intolerable servitude and correspondence, I had leisure to be some- 
 what more at home and to myselfe. 
 
 3 July. I sealed the deedes of sale of the Mannor of Blechinglee 
 to Sir Rob* Clayton, for payment of Lo. Peterborough's debts, accord- 
 ing to the trust of the Act of Parliament. 
 
 16. I went to Wotton. — 22. Mr. Evans, curate of Abinger, preach'd 
 an excellent sermon on 5 Matthew 12. In y e afternoone Mr. Higham 
 at Wotton catechised. 
 
 26. I din'd at Mr. Duncomb's at Sheere, whose house stands in- 
 viron'd with very sweete and quick streams. 
 
 29. Mr. Bohun, my sonn's late tutor, preached at Abinger on 
 4 Phil. 8. very elegantly and practically. 
 
 5 Aug. I went to visite my Lord Brounker, now taking the waters 
 at Dulwich. 
 
 9. Din'd at the Earl of Peterborow's the day after y e marriage of 
 my Lord of Arundel to Lady Mary Mordaunt daughter to the Earl of 
 Peterborough. 
 
 28. To visite my Lord Chamberlaine in Suffolk ; he sent his coach 
 and 6 to meete and bring me from St. Edmonds Bury to Euston. 
 
 29. We hunted in the park and kili'd a very fat buck. — 31. I went 
 a hawking. 
 
1677-] 489 
 
 7 Sept. There din'd this day at my Lord's one S r John Gaudy, a 
 very handsome person, but quite dumb, yet very intelligent by signes, 
 and a very fine painter ; he was so civil and well bred as it was not 
 possible to discerne any imperfection by him. His lady and children 
 were also there, and he was at church in the morning with us. 
 
 4. I went to visite my Lord Crofts, now dying at St. Edmonds Bury, 
 and tooke this opportunity to see this ancient To wne, and the remaines 
 of that famous Monasterie and Abby. There is little standing intire 
 save the gate-house ; it has ben a vast and magnificent Gotic structure, 
 and of greate extent. The gates are wood, but quite plated over with 
 iron. There are also two stately churches, one especialy. 
 
 5. I went to Thetford, the Burrough Towne, where stand the mines 
 of a religious house ; there is a round mountaine artificialy raised, either 
 for some castle or monument, which makes a pretty landscape. As we 
 went and return'd, a tumbler shew'd his extraordinary addresse in the 
 Warren. I also saw the Decoy, much pleas'd with the stratagem. 
 
 9. A stranger preach'd at Euston church, and fell into a handsome 
 panegyric on my Lord's new building the church, which indeede for its 
 elegance and cherefullness is one of the prettiest country churches in 
 England. My Lord told me his heart smote him that after he had 
 bestow'd so much on his magnificent palace there, he should see God's 
 House in the ruine it lay in. He has also rebuilt y e parsonage-house, 
 all of stone, very neate and ample. 
 
 10. To divert me, my Lord, would needs carry me to see Ipswich, 
 when we din'd with one Mr. Mann by the way, who was Recorder of 
 the towne. There were in our company my Lord Huntingtoune sonn to 
 the Dutchesse of Lauderdale, S Ed. Bacon a learned gentleman of 
 the family of y e greate Chanc r Verulam, and Sir John Felton, with 
 some other Knights and Gent". After dinner came the Bailiff and 
 Magistrates in their formalities with their maces to compliment my 
 Lord and invite him to the Towne-house, where they presented us a 
 collation of dried sweet meates and wine, the bells ringing, &c. Then we 
 went to see the towne, and first, the Lord Vise 1 Hereford's house, which 
 stands in a park neere the towne, like that at Bruxelles in Flanders ; 
 the house not greate yet prettv, especialy y e hall. The stewes for fish 
 
 vol. t. 3 R 
 
490 [1677- 
 
 succeed one another and feed one the other, all paved at bottome. There 
 is a good picture of the Bl. Virgin in one of y e parlours, seeming to be 
 of Holbein or some good master. Then we saw the Haven, 7 miles from 
 Harwich. The tide runs out every day, but the bedding being soft mudd 
 it is safe for shipping and a station. The trade of Ipswich is for the most 
 part Newcastle coales, with which they supply London, but it was for- 
 merly a cloathing towne. There is not any beggar asks alms in the 
 whole place, a thing very extraordinary, so order'd by y e prudence of 
 the Magistrates. It has in it 14 or 15 beautiful churches : in a word 
 'tis for building, cleanesse, and good order, one of the best townes in 
 England. Cardinal Wolsey was a butcher's sonn of this towne, but 
 there is little of that magnificent Prelate's foundation here, besides a 
 schole and I think a library, which I did not see. His intentions were 
 to build some greate thing. We return'd late to Euston, having tra- 
 vell'd above 50 miles this day. 
 
 Since first I was at this place, I found things exceedingly improv'd. 
 It is seated in a bottome between two gracefull swellings, the maine 
 building being now in y e figure of a Greek n with foure pavilions, two 
 at each corner, and a breake in the front, rail'd and balustred at the top, 
 where I caus'd huge jarrs to be plac'd full of earth to keepe them steady 
 upon their pedestalls between the statues, which make as good a shew 
 as if they were of stone, and tho' the building be of brick, and but two 
 stories besides cellars, and garretts cover'd with blue slate, yet there is 
 roome enough for a full court, the offices and out-houses being so ample 
 and well-dispos'd. The King's apartment is painted ajresca, and mag- 
 nificently furnish'd. There are many excellent pictures of the greate 
 masters. The gallery is a pleasant, noble roome : in the breake, or 
 middle, is a billiard-table, but the wainscot being of firr, and painted, 
 does not please me so well as Spanish oake without paint. The 
 chapel is pretty, the porch descending to the gardens. The orange 
 garden is very fine, and leads into the green-house, at y e end of which 
 is a hall to eate in, and the conservatory some hundred feete long, 
 adorn 'd with mapps, as the other side is with the heads of Caesars ill 
 cut in alabaster ; over head are several apartments for my Lord, Lady, 
 
1677-1 " 491 
 
 and Dutchesse*, with kitchens and other offices below in a lesser form, 
 with lodgings for servants, all distinct, for them to retire to when 
 they please and would be in private and have no communication with 
 the palace, which he tells me he will wholly resign to his sonn-in-law 
 and daughter, that charming young creature. The canall running un- 
 der my lady's dressing-room chamber window is full of carps and foule 
 which come and are fed there. The cascade at the end of y e canall 
 turnes a corne-mil), which provides the family, and raises water for 
 y e fountaines and offices. To passe this canal into the opposite mea- 
 dows, S r Sam. Moreland has invented a screw-bridge, w ch being turn'd 
 with a key lands you 50 foote distant at the entrance of an ascending 
 walke of trees, a mile in length, as tis also on the front into the park, 
 of 4 rows of ash -trees, and reaches to the park-pale, which is 9 miles 
 in compass, and the best for riding and meeting the game that I ever 
 saw. There were now of red and fallow deere almost a thousand, with 
 good covert, but the soile barren and flying sand, in which nothing will 
 grow kindly. The tufts of firr and much of the other wood were planted 
 by my direction some yeares before. This seate is admirably plac'd for 
 field sports, hawking, hunting, or racing. The mutton is small, but 
 sweete. The stables hold 30 horses and 4 coaches. The out-offices make 
 two large quadrangles, so as servants never liv'd with more ease and 
 convenience, never master more civil. Strangers are attended and ac- 
 comodated as at their home, in pretty apartments furnish'd with all 
 manner of conveniencies and privacy. There is a library full of ex- 
 cellent books. There are bathing-roomes, elaboratorie, dispensatorie, 
 a decoy, and places to keepe and fat fowl in. He had now in his new 
 church (neere y e garden) built a dormitory or vault with several reposi- 
 tories in which to burie his family. In the expence of this pious struc- 
 ture, the church is most laudable, most of the Houses of God in this 
 country resembling rather stables and thatch'd cottages than temples in 
 which to serve the Most High. He has built a lodge in the park for the 
 keeper, which is a neate dwelling and might become any gentleman. 
 
 * His daughter, wife of the Duke of Grafton. 
 
492 
 
 [1677- 
 
 The same has he don for the parson, little deserving it, for murmuring 
 that my Lord put him some time out of his wretched hovel, whilst it 
 was building. He has also erected a faire inn at some distance from his 
 palace, with a bridge of stone over a river neere it, and repaired all the 
 tenants houses, so as there is nothing but neatenesse and accommodations 
 about his estate, which I yet think is not above ,^=.1500 a yeare. I be- 
 lieve he had now in his family 100 domestic servants. His lady (being 
 one of the Bredrodes daughters, grandchild to a natural sonn of Henry 
 Frederick Prince of Orange) is a good-natur'd and obliging woman. 
 They love fine things and to live easily, pompously, and hospitably, but 
 with so vast expence as plunges my Lord into debt exceedingly. My 
 Lord himselfe is given to no expensive vice but building, and to have all 
 things rich, polite, and princely. He never plays, but reades much, 
 having the Latin, French and Spanish tongues in perfection. He has 
 travell'd much, and is the best bred and courtly person his M<x ty has 
 about him, so as the publiq Ministers more frequent him than any of 
 the rest of the Nobility. Whilst he was Secretary of State and Prime 
 Minister he had gotten vastly, but spent it as hastily, even before he had 
 established a fund to maintaine his greatnesse ; and now beginning to 
 decline in favour (y e Duke being no great friend of his) he knows not 
 how to retrench. He was sonn of a D r of Laws whom I have seene, 
 and being sent from Westminster Schole to Oxford with intention to be 
 a Divine, and parson of Harlington *, a village neere Brainford, when 
 Master of Arts, the Rebellion falling out, he follow'd the King's Army, 
 and receiving an honourable wound in theface\, grew into favour, and 
 was advanc'd from a meane fortune, at his Ma <ys restauration, to be an 
 Earle and Kn l of the Garter, Lord Chamberlaine of the Household, 
 and first favourite for a long time, during which the King married his 
 natural sonn, y e Duke of Grafton, to his onely daughter and heiress, 
 as before mentioned, worthy for her beauty and virtue of the greatest 
 Prince in Christendom. My Lord is, besides this, a prudent and 
 
 * See in Lord Clarendon's Continuation of his Life, &c. a curious circumstance relating to Sir 
 Henry Bennett's taking his title, when first created a Baron, from this place. 
 
 f A deep cut across his nose, he was always obliged to wear a black patch upon it, and is so 
 represented in his portraits. 
 
1077-] 
 
 493 
 
 understanding person in businesse and speakes well. Unfortunate yet in 
 those he has advanc'd, most of them proving ungratefull. The many 
 obligations and civilities I have receiv'd from this noble gentleman 
 extracts from me this character, and I am sorry he is in no better 
 circumstances. 
 
 Having now pass'd neere three weeks at Euston to my greate satis- 
 faction, with much difficulty he suffer'd me to looke homeward, being 
 very earnest with me to stay longer, ana to engage me, would himselfe 
 have carried and accompanied me to Lynn Regis, a towne of important 
 traffiq, about 20 miles beyond, which I had never seene, as also the 
 Travelling Sands about 10 miles wide of Euston, that have so damag'd 
 the country, rouling from place to place, and like the Sands in y e 
 Deserts of Lybia, quite overwhelm'd some gentlemen's whole estates, as 
 the relation extant in print and brought to our Society describes at large. 
 
 13 Sept. My Lord's coach convey'd me to Bury, and thence baiting 
 at Newmarket, stepping in at Audley End to see that house againe, I 
 slept at Bishops Stortford, and the next day home. I was accompanied 
 in my journey by Major Fairfax, of a younger house of the Lord Fair- 
 fax, a souldier, a traveller, an excellent musitian, a good-natur'd well- 
 bred gentleman. 
 
 18. I preferred Mr. Philips (nephew of Milton) to the service of 
 my Lord Chamberlaine, who wanted a scholar to reade to Sc entertaine 
 him sometimes. 
 
 12 Oct. With S r Robert Clayton to Marden, an estate he had bought 
 lately of my kinsman S r John Evelyn of Godstone in Surrey, which 
 from a despicable farme house S r Robert had erected into a seate with 
 extraordinary expence. 'Tis in such a solitude among hills, as being not 
 above 16 miles from London, seems almost incredible, the ways up to 
 it so winding and intricate. The gardens are large, and well wall'd, 
 and the husbandry part made very convenient and perfectly understood. 
 The barnes, the stacks of corne, the stalls for cattle, pigeon-house, &c. 
 of most laudable example. Innumerable are the plantations of trees, 
 especialy wallnuts. The orangerie and gardens are very curious. In 
 the house are large and noble roomes. He and his lady (who is very 
 curious in distillery) entertain'd me three or foure days very freely. I 
 
494 
 
 167 7-] 
 
 earnestly suggested to him the repairing of an old desolate dilapidated 
 Church, standing on the hill above the house*, w ch I left him in good 
 disposition to do, and endow it better ; there not being above foure or 
 five houses in the parish besides that of this prodigious rich Scrivenerf*. 
 This place is exceeding sharp in the winter, by reason of the serpenting 
 of the hills ; and it wants running water ; but the solitude much pleas'd 
 me. All the ground is so full of wild thyme, marjoram, and other 
 sweete plants, that it cannot be overstock'd with bees ; I think he had 
 neere 40 hives of that industrious insect. 
 
 14. I went to Church at Godstone, and to see old Sir John Eve- 
 lyn's dormitory, joining to the church, pav'd with marble, where he 
 and his lady lie on a very stately monument at length ; he in armour, 
 of white marble]};. The inscription is only an account of his particular 
 branch of the family on black marble. 
 
 15. Returned to London ; in the evening, I saw the Prince of Orange, 
 and supped with Lord Ossorv. 
 
 23. Saw againe the Prince of Orange : his marriage with the 
 Lady Mary, eldest daughter to the Duke of York, by Mrs. Hyde, the 
 late Dutchesse, was now declared. 
 
 11 Nov. I was all this week composing matters betweene old Mrs. 
 Howard and S r Gabriel Sylvius, upon his long and earnest addresses to 
 Mrs. Ann her second daughter§, mayd of honor to the Queene. My 
 
 * Woldingham. The Church consists of one room about 30 feet long and 1\ wide, without anj 
 tower, spire, or bell. It is considered as a Donative, not subject to the Bishop, service performed 
 once a month. No Churchwarden ; two farm-houses, four cottages. By the Population Return 
 in 1811, the number of inhabitants was 58. That disposition which was thought to have appeared 
 subsided; the Church remains as it then was. 
 
 fin London there was formerly a Company called Scriveners, now extinct. The last member 
 of it, named Ellis, died at the age of more than 90. Dr. Johnson speaks well of him in the present 
 reign. The business comprehended that of a Banker, and what is now called a Conveyancer; they 
 had money deposited with them for the purpose of making purchases, or lending on mortgage : 
 tlvey preparing the Conveyances. In the time of K. Charles I. during the troubles and the inter- 
 regnum, a gentleman of the name of Abbot in the City had a very great share of this business. Sir 
 Robert Clayton and a Mr. Morris were his clerks at the same time, and jointly succeeded to his 
 business, in which they had acquired a great estate. Mr. Morris died first, and having no chil- 
 dren, left his property to his friend Sir Robert. The Editor lately saw a deed attested by Mr. 
 Abbot as Scrivener, and by Mr. Morris and Mr. Clayton as his servants. 
 
 X It is a very fine monument, in perfect preservation, (1816.) § See p. 479 note. 
 
167 7-] 
 
 495 
 
 friend Mrs. Godolphin (who exceedingly lov'd the young lady) was 
 most industrious in it, out of pitty to y e languishing knight; so as tho' 
 there were greate differences in their yeares, it was at last effected, and 
 they were married the 13th in Hen. 7 th ' s Chapell by the Bishop of Ro- 
 chester*, there being besides my wife and Mrs. Graham, her sister, 
 Mrs. Godolphin, and very few more. We din'd at the old lady's, and 
 supp'd at Mr. Graham's at St. James's. 
 
 15. The Qneene's birth -day, a greate Ball at Court, where the 
 Prince of Orange and his new Princesse daunced. 
 
 19. They went away, and I saw embarqu'd my Lady Sylvius, who 
 went into Holland with her husband, made Hoffmaester to the Prince, 
 a considerable employment. We parted with greate sorrow, for the 
 greate respect and honour I bore her, a most pious and virtuous lady. 
 
 27. Din'd at the Lord Treasurer's with Prince Rupert, Vise 1 Fal- 
 kenberg, Earle of Bathe, Lord O'Brien, Sir John Lowther, Sir Christ. 
 Wren, Dr. Grew, and other learned men. 
 
 30. S r Joseph Williamson, Principal Secretary of State, was chosen 
 President of the Royal Society after my Lord Viscount Brounker had 
 possess'd the chaire now sixteen yeares successively, and therefore now 
 thought fit to change, that prescription might not prejudice. 
 
 4 Dec. Being the first day of his taking the chaire, he gave us a 
 magnificent supper. 
 
 20. Carried to my Lord Treasurer an account of the Earl of Bris- 
 tol's Librarie at Wimbleton, which my Lord thought of purchasing, 
 till I acquainted him that it was a very broken collection, consisting 
 much in books of judicial astrologie, romances and triflesf . 
 
 25. I gave my sonn an Office, with instructions how to govern his 
 youth ; I pray God give him the grace to make a right use of it. 
 
 1678. 23 Jan. Din'd with y c Duke of Norfolk, being the first 
 time I had seene him since the death of his elder brother, who died at 
 Padoa in Italy, where he had resided above 30 yeares. The Duke 
 
 * Dr. John Dolben, also Dean of Westminster, translated afterwards to York, 
 t A library of this description would at this day be deemed a very curious one, and an object 
 probably of much competition. Habent sua fata libelli .' 
 
496 
 
 [1678. 
 
 had now newly declar'd his marriage to his concubine, whom he pro- 
 mis'd me he never would marry*. I went with him to see the Duke 
 of Buckingham, thence to my Lord Sunderland, now Secretary of 
 State, to shew him that rare piece of Vosterman's (son of old Voster- 
 man) which was a view or landscape of my Lord's palace, &c. at 
 Althorp in Northamptonshire. 
 
 8 Feb. Supping at my Lord Chamberlaine's, I had a long discourse 
 with the Conte de Castel Mellor, lately Prime Minister in Portugal, 
 who taking part with his master King Alphonso was banish'd by his 
 brother Don Pedro, now Regent, but had behaved himselfe so uncor- 
 ruptly in all his ministrie, that tho' he was acquitted and his estate re- 
 stored, yet would they not suffer him to returne. He is a very intelli- 
 gent and worthy gentleman, 
 
 18. My Lord Treasurer sent for me to accompany him to Wimble- 
 don, which he had lately purchased of y e Earle of Bristol : so breaking 
 fast with him privately in his chamber, 1 accompanied him with two 
 of his daughters, my Lord Conway and S r Bernard Gascoyne, and 
 having surveyed his gardens and alterations, returned late at night. 
 
 22. Dr. Pierce preach'd at White-hall on 2 Thessal. 3. 6. against 
 our late Schismatics, in a rational discourse, but a little over-sharp and 
 not at all proper for the auditory there. 
 
 22 Mar. Dr. South preached coram Itege an incomparable dis- 
 course on this text, "A wounded spirit who can beare !" Note: Now 
 was our communion table plac'd altar-wise ; the church steeple, clock, 
 and other reparations finish'd. 
 
 1 6 April. I shewed Dom. Emanuel de Lyra (Portugal Ambass r ) and 
 the Count de Castel Mellor the Repository of the R. Society and the 
 Colledge of Physitians. 
 
 18. I went to see New Bedlam Hospital, magnificently builtf, and 
 most sweetely placed in More-fields, since the dreadful fire in London. 
 
 * It appears by the Books of Peerage that his Grace married to his second wife Mrs. Jane Bick- 
 erton, daughter of a Scotch gentleman, Robert Bickerton, Esq. who was Gentleman of the Wine 
 Cellar to King Charles II. There are engraved portraits both of this Duke and his Duchess. See 
 pp. 444, 498. 
 
 t Taken down, being greatly decayed, in 1S14, and a new one erected on the Surrey side of 
 the Thames, in the road leading from St. George's Fields to Lambeth. On pulling ii down, the 
 
1678.] 
 
 497 
 
 28 June. 1 went to Windsor with my Lord Chamberlaine (the 
 Castle now repairing with exceeding cost) to see the rare worke of 
 Verrio, and incomparable carving of Gibbons. 
 
 29. Return'd with my Lord by Hounslow Heath, where we saw 
 the new-rais'd army encamp'd, design'd against France, in pretence 
 at least, but which gave umbrage to the Parliament. His Ma*>' and a 
 world of company were in the field, and the whole army in battalia, a 
 very glorious sight. Now were brought into service a new sort of Sol- 
 diers call'd Granacliers, who were dextrous in flinging hand granados, 
 every one having a pouch full ; they had furr'd caps with coped crownes 
 like Janizaries, which made them looke very fierce, and some had long 
 hoods hanging down behind, as we picture fools. Their clothing being 
 likewise pybald yellow and red. 
 
 8 July. Came to dine with me my Lord Longford, Treasurer of 
 Ireland, nephew to that learned gentleman my Lord Aungier, with 
 whom 1 was long since acquainted : also the lady Stidolph and other 
 company. 
 
 19. The Earle of Ossory came to take his leave of me, going into 
 Holland to command the English forces. 
 
 20. I went to the Tower to try a mettal at the Assay-masters, w rh 
 onely prov'd Sulphur ; then saw Mons r Rotiere, that excellent graver 
 belonging to the Mint, who emulates even the ancients, in both mettal 
 and stone ; he was now moulding an horse for y e King's statue, to be 
 cast in silver, of a yard high. I din'd with Mr. Slingsby, Master of the 
 Mint. 
 
 23. Went to see Mr. Elias Ashmole's library and curiosities at 
 Lambeth. He has divers MSS. but most of them astrological, to w ch 
 study he is addicted, tho' I believe not learned, but very industrious, 
 as his History of the Order of the Garter proves. He shew'd me a 
 toade included in amber. The prospect from a turret is very fine, it 
 being so neere London, and yet not discovering any house about the 
 
 foundations were found to be very bad, as it had been built on part of the Tbwne-ditch, and on a 
 soil very unfit for the erection of so large a building. Patients were removed to the new building 
 in August 1815. 
 
 VOL. I. 3 s 
 
498 
 
 [16 7 8. 
 
 country. The famous John Tradescant bequeathed his Repository to 
 this gentleman, who has given them to the University of Oxford, and 
 erected a lecture on them, over the Laboratorie, in imitation of the R. 
 Society *. 
 
 Mr. Godolphin was made Master of the Robes to the King. 
 
 25. There was sent me fOL from whom I knew not, to be by me 
 distributed among poore people ; I afterwards found it was from that 
 deere friend (Mrs. Godolphin^ who had frequently given me large sums 
 to bestow on charities. 
 
 16 Aug. I went to Lady Mordaunt, who put 100Z. into my hands 
 to dispose of for pious uses, relief of prisoners, poore, &c. Many a 
 sum had she sent me on similar occasions : a blessed creature she was, 
 and one that loved and feared God exemplarily. 
 
 23. Upon Sir Rob* Reading's importunity I went to visite the Duke 
 of Norfolk at his new palace at Weybridgef, where he has laid out in 
 building neere ^.10,000, on a copyhold, and in a miserable, barren, 
 sandy place by the street side; never in my life had I seene such expense 
 to so small purpose. The roomes are wainscotted, and some of them 
 richly parquetted with cedar, yew, cypresse, &c. There are some good 
 pictures, especialy that incomparable painting of Holbein's, where the 
 Duke of Norfolk, Charles Brandon, and Hen. VIII. are dauncing with 
 the three ladies, with most amourous countenances and sprightly motion 
 exquisitely expressed. 'Tis a thousand pities (as I told my Lord of 
 Arundel his son) that that jewel should be given away. 
 
 24. I went to see my Lord of St. Alban's house at Byflete, an old 
 large building. Thence to the paper mills, where I found them making 
 
 * The donation took place in 1677, and a suitable building was erected by Sir Christ. Wren, 
 bearing the name of the " Ashmolean Museum." This was the first public institution for the re- 
 ception of Rarities in Art or Nature established in England ; and, in the infancy of the study of 
 Natural History in this country, possessed what was then considered as a valuable and superior 
 collection. There are good portraits of Ashmole, and of the Tradescant family by Dobson, in 
 the Museum, from which engravings have been very inaccurately taken. 
 
 f This house was the property of Mrs. Bickei ton, whom the Duke married. After his death 
 she married Mr. Maxwell, and they, together with Lord George Howard (her eldest son by the 
 Duke) sold it to the Countess of Dorchester (mistress to James II.) Her daughter married David 
 Colyer Earl of Portraore, whose descendant is the present owner, but the house is uninhabited, and 
 in a most ruinous state (1816). 
 
1678.] 
 
 499 
 
 a coarse white paper. They cull the raggs, which are Hnnen, for white 
 paper, woollen for hrown ; then they stamp them in troughs to a papp 
 with pestels or hammers like y e powder-mills then put it into a vesseli 
 of water, in which they dip a frame closely wyred with wyre as small as 
 a haire and as close as a weaver's reede ; on this they take up the papp, 
 the superfluous water draining thro' the wyre ; this they dextrously 
 turning, shake out like a pancake on a smooth board between 2 pieces of 
 flannell, then presse it between a greate presse, the flannell sucking out 
 y e moisture; then taking it out, they ply and dry it on strings, as they 
 dry linnen in the laundry ; then dip it in alum-water, lastly polish and 
 make it up in quires. They put some gum in the water in which they 
 macerate the raggs. The mark we find on the sheets is formed in the 
 wyre. 
 
 25. After evening prayer visited Mr. Sheldon (nephew to the late 
 Abp. of Canterbury) and his pretty melancholy garden ; I tooke notice 
 of the largest arbor tliuyris I had ever seene. The place is finely 
 water'd, and there are many curiosities of India, shewn in the house*. 
 
 There was at Wey bridge the Dutchesse of Norfolk, Lord Tho. 
 Howard (a worthy and virtuous gentleman, with whom my sonn was 
 some time bred up in Arundel House) who was newly come from 
 Rome, where he had been some time ; also one of the Duke's daugh- 
 ters by his first lady. My Lord leading me about the house made no 
 scruple of shewing me all the hiding-places for the Popish priests, and 
 where they said masse, for he was no bigotted Papist. He told me he 
 never trusted them with any seacret, and us'd Protestants only in all 
 businesses of importance. 
 
 I went this evening with my Lord Duke to Windsor, where was a 
 magnificent Court, it being the first time of his Ma^ removing thither 
 since it was repair'd. 
 
 27 Aug 1 . I tooke leave of y e Duke, and din'd at Mr. Hen. 
 Brouncker's, at y e Abby of Sheene, formerly a Monastery of Carthu- 
 sians, there yet remaining one of their solitary cells with a crosse. 
 Within this ample inclosure are several pretty villas and fine gardens 
 
 * This seems to be near Weybiidge, but where J 
 
500 
 
 [1678. 
 
 of the most excellent fruites, especialy Sir W' n . Temple's (lately Am- 
 bassador into Holland), and the Lord Lisle's sonn, to y e Earle of 
 Leicester, who has divers rare pictures, above all, that of Sir Brian 
 Tuke's by Holbein. 
 
 After dinner I walk'd to Ham, to see the house and garden of the 
 Duke of Lauderdale, which is indeede inferior to few of the best villas 
 in Italy itselfe, the house furnish'd like a greate Prince's; the parterres, 
 flower gardens, orangeries, groves, avenues, courts, statues, perspectives, 
 fountaines, aviaries, and all this at the banks of the sweetest river in 
 the world, must needes be admirable. 
 
 Hence I went to my worthy friend S r Henry Capel [at Kew] brother 
 to the Earle of Essex : it is an old timber house, but his garden has 
 the choicest fruit of any plantation in England, as he is the most indus- 
 trious and understanding in it. 
 
 29. I was call'd to London to wait upon the D. of Norfolk, who 
 having at my sole request bestow'd the Arundelian Library on the 
 Royal Society, sent to me to take charge of the bookes and remove 
 them, onely stipulating that I would suffer the Heraulds cheif officer, 
 Sir W m Dugdale, to have such of them as concern'd Herauldry and 
 the Marshall's office, bookes of Armorie and Genealogies, the Duke 
 being Earl Marshall of England. I procur'd for our Society, besides 
 printed bookes, neere 100 MSS., some in Greeke of greate concern- 
 ment. The printed bookes being of the oldest impressions are not the 
 lesse valuable; I esteem them almost equal to MSS. Amongst them 
 are most of the Fathers printed at Basil, before the Jesuits abus'd them 
 with their expurgatory Indexes ; there is a noble MS. of Vitruvius. 
 Many of these bookes had ben presented by Popes, Cardinals, and greate 
 persons, to the Earls of Arundel and Dukes of Norfolk ; and the late 
 magnificent Earl of Arundel bought a noble library in Germanie, 
 which is in this collection. I should not, for the honour I beare the 
 family, have persuaded the Duke to part with these, had I not seene 
 how negligent he was of them, suffering the priests and every body to 
 carry away and dispose of what they pleas'd, so that abundance of rare 
 things are irrecoverably gone. 
 
1678.] 501 
 
 Having taken order here, I went to the Royal Society to give them 
 an account of what 1 had procur'd, that they might call a Council and 
 appoint a day to waite on the Duke to thank him for this munificent gift. 
 
 3 Sept. I went to London to dine with Mrs. Godolphin [formerly 
 Mrs. Blagg, who had ben maid of honour to the Queene], and found 
 her in labour ; she was brought to bed of a sonn, who was baptiz'd in 
 the chamber, by the name of Francis, y e susceptors being S 1 W m . Go- 
 dolphin (head of the family), Mr. Jn° Hervey, Treass 1 " to the Queene, 
 and Mrs. Boscawen, sister to S r William and the father. 
 
 8. Whilst I was at church came a letter from Mr. Godolphin that 
 my deare friend his lady was exceedingly ill, and desiring my prayers 
 and assistance. My wife and I tooke boate immediately and went to 
 White-hall, where, to my inexpressible sorrow, I found she had ben 
 attacq'd with the new fever, then reigning this excessive hot autumn, 
 and which was so violent that it was not thought she could last 
 many hours. 
 
 9. She died in the 26 lh yeare of her age, to the inexpressible afflic- 
 tion of her deare husband and all her relations, but of none in the world 
 more than of myselfe, who lost the most excellent and inestimable 
 friend that ever liv'd. Never was a more virtuous and inviolable friend- 
 ship ; never a more religious, discreet and admirable creature, beloved 
 of all, admired of all, for all possible perfections of her sex. She is gon 
 to receive the reward of her signal charity, and all other her Christian 
 graces, too blessed a creature to converse with mortals, fitted as she 
 was by a most holy life to be received into the mansions above. She 
 was for witt, beauty, good-nature, fidelity, discretion, and all accom- 
 plishments, the most incomparable person. How shall I ever repay the 
 obligations to her for the infinite good offices she did my soule by so oft 
 ingaging me to make religion the termes and tie of the friendship there 
 was between us ! She was the best wife, the best mistress, the best 
 friend that ever husband had. But it is not here that I pretend to 
 give her character, having design d to consecrate her worthy life to 
 posterity. 
 
 Her husband, struck with unspeakable affliction, fell down as dead. 
 The King himselfe and all the Court expressed their sorrow. To the 
 
 \ 
 
502 
 
 [1678- 
 
 poore and miserable her losse was irreparable, for there was no degree 
 but had some obligation to her memorie. So carefull and provident was 
 she to be prepared for all possible accidents, that, (as if she foresaw her 
 end) she received the heavenly viaticum but the Sunday before, after a 
 most solemn recollection. She put all her domestic concerns into y e 
 exactest order, and left a letter directed to her husband, to be opened in 
 case she died in child-bed, in which with the most pathetic and endear- 
 ing expressions of a most loyal and virtuous wife, she begs his kindnesse 
 to her memorie might be continued by his care and esteeme of those she 
 left behind, even to her domestic servants, to the meanest of which she 
 left considerable legacies, as well as to the poore. It was now seven 
 yeares since she was maid of honor to y e Queene, that she reguarded me 
 as a father, a brother, and what is more, a friend. We often prayed, 
 visited the sick and miserable, received, read, discoursed, and commu- 
 nicated in all holy offices together. She was most deare to my wife and 
 affectionate to my children. But she is gon ! This onely is my com- 
 fort that she is happy in Christ and I shall shortly behold her againe* ! 
 She desir'd to be buried in the dormitorie of his family, neere 300 
 miles from all her other friends. So afflicted was her husband at this 
 severe losse, that the intire care of her funerall was committed to me. 
 Having closed the eyes and dropped a teare upon the cheeke of my 
 deare departed friend, lovely even in death, I caused her corps to be 
 embalmed and wrapped in lead, with a plate of brasse soldered thereon, 
 with an inscription, and other circumstances due to her worth, with as 
 much diligence and care as my greived heart would permit me ; I then 
 retired home for two daies, which were spent in solitude and sad 
 reflections. 
 
 17. She was accordingly carried to Godolphin in Cornwall, in a 
 hearse with six horses, attended by two coaches of as many, with 
 about 30 of her rekitions and servants. There accompanied the hearse 
 her husband's brother S r W m , two more of his brothers, and three 
 sisters; her husband was so overcome with grief, that he was wholly 
 
 * In the subsequent part of these memoirs it will appear that Mr. Godolphin (afterwards Lord 
 Godolphin) continued the steady friend of Mr. Eve^n, whose grandson married into the family. 
 The infant now mentioned as born, carried on the friendship to the family through a long life. 
 
1678.: 
 
 503 
 
 unfit to travel so long a journey till he was more composed. I went 
 as far as Hounslow with a sad heart, but was obliged to return upon 
 some indispensible affaires. The corpse was ordered to be taken out of 
 the hearse every night, and decently placed in y e house, with tapers 
 about it, and her servants attending, to Cornwall ; and then was 
 honorably interr'd in the parish church of Godolphin. This funeral 
 cost not much less than ^1,000. 
 
 With Mr. Godolphin I looked over and sorted his lady's papers, 
 most of which consisted of Prayers, Meditations, Sermon-notes, Dis- 
 courses, and Collections on severall religious subjects, and many of her 
 owne happy composing, and so pertinently digested, as if she had ben 
 all her life a student in divinity. We found a diary of her solemn 
 resolutions, all tending to practical virtue, with letters from select 
 friends, all put into exact method. It astonish'd us to see what she 
 had read and written, her youth considered. 
 
 1 Oct. The Parliament and the whole Nation were alarm'd about a 
 conspiracy of some eminent Papists for y e destruction of the King and 
 introduction of Popery, discover'd by one Oates and Dr. Tongue*, 
 
 * Ezrael Tong, bred in University College, Oxford, being puritanically inclined, quitted the 
 University, but in 1648 returned, and was made a Fellow. He had the living of Pluckley in 
 Kent, but quitted it, being vexed by his parishioners and Quakers. In 1657 he was made Fel- 
 low of the new erected College at Durham, and that being dissolved in 1660, he taught school at 
 Islington. He then went with Col. Edward Harley to Dunkirk, but that being given up, he took 
 a small living in Herefordshire (Lentwardine) : but soon quitted it for St. Mary Stayning in Lon- 
 don, which, after the fire in 1666, was united to St. Michael, Wood Street, and he held them to 
 his death, in 1680. He was a great opponent of the Papists. Wood mentions several publica- 
 tions of his, amongst which are, " The Jesuits unmasked," 16/8 ; " Jesuitical Aphorisms," 167S ; 
 " The Jesuits' Morals," 1680 (1670) ; the two last translated from the French. Wood's Athen. 
 Oxon. vol. II. p. 502. 
 
 Mr. Evelyn speaks of Dr. Tong's having translated the last of these by his desire. 
 
 Oates said that Thomas Whitbread, a priest, on 13 June, 16. . .did tell the Rector of St. Omer's, 
 that a Minister of the Church of England had scandalously put out the " Jesuit's Morals" in Eng- 
 lish, and had endeavoured to render them odious, and had asked the Rector whether he thought 
 Oates might know him ? and the Rector called the deponent, who heard these words as he stood 
 at the chamber door, and when he went into the chamber of the Provincial, he asked him " If he 
 knew the author of the Jesuits' Morals ?" deponent answered, " His person, but not his name." 
 Whitbread then demanded, whether he would undertake to poison or assassinate the author ; 
 which deponent undertook, having ^50. reward promised him, and appointed to return to 
 England. — From a publication of Oates. 
 
504 
 
 [1678. 
 
 which last I knew, being the translator of the " Jesuites' Morals 
 I went to see and converse with him at White- hall, with Mr. Oates, 
 one that was lately an apostate to the Church of Rome, and now re- 
 turn'd againe with this discovery. He seem'd to be a bold man, and 
 in my thoughts furiously indiscreete ; but every body believ'd what he 
 said ; and it quite chang'd the genius and motions of the Parliament, 
 growing now corrupt and interested with long sitting and court prac- 
 tices ; but with all this Poperie would not go downe. This discoverie 
 turn'd them all as one man against it, and nothing was don but to find 
 out the depth of this. Oates was encourag'd, and every thing he 
 affirm'd taken for gospel ; — the truth is, the Roman Catholics were 
 exceeding bold and busy every where, since the Duke forbore to go 
 any longer to the Chapell. 
 
 16 Oct. Mr. Godolphin requested me to continue the trust his wife 
 had reposed in me in behalfe of his little sonn, conjuring me to transfer 
 the friendship I had for his deare wife, on him and his. 
 
 21 Oct. The murder of S r Edmondbury Godfrey, found strangl'd 
 about this time, as was manifest by y e Papists, he being a Justice of 
 the Peace, and one who knew much of their practices, as conversant 
 with Colman (a servant of the .... now accus'd), put the whole 
 nation into a new ferment against them. 
 
 31. Being my 58th of my age, required my humble addresses to 
 Almighty God, and that he would take off his heavy hand, still on mv 
 family, and restore comforts to us after the losse of my excellent friend. 
 
 5 Nov. Dr. Tillotson preach'd before y e Commons at St. Mar- 
 garet's. He said the Papists were now ariv'd at that impudence as to 
 deny that there ever was any such thing as the gunpowder conspiracy ; 
 but he affirm'd that he himself had severall letters written by Sir Eve- 
 rard Digby (one of the traytors), in w ch he gloried that he was to 
 suffer for it ; and that it was so contriv'd, that of the Papists not above 
 two or three should have ben blown up, and they, such as were not 
 worth saving. 
 
 15. The Queene's birth-day. I never saw the Court _more brave, 
 nor the nation in more apprehension and consternation. Coleman and 
 one Staly had now ben tried, condemn'd and executed. On this 
 
16/8.] 
 
 505 
 
 Oates grew so presumptuous, as to aceuse the Queene of intending to 
 poison the King, which certainly that pious and vertuous lady ahhorr'd 
 the thoughts of, and Oates his circumstances made it utterly unlikely 
 in my opinion. He probably thought to gratifie some who would have 
 ben glad his Ma tv should have married a fruitfull lady; but the King 
 was too kind a husband to let any of these make impression on him. 
 However divers of the Popish Peeres were sent to y e Towre, accus'd bv 
 Oates, and all the Roman Catholic Lords were by a new act for ever 
 excluded the Parliament, which was a mighty blow. The King's, 
 Queen's, and Duke's servants, were banish'd, and a test to be taken 
 by every body who pretended to enjoy any office of publiq trust, and 
 who would not be suspected of Popery. I went with S r W'" Godol- 
 phin, a member of the Commons House, to y e Bp. of Ely (Dr. Pet. 
 Gunning, to be resolv'd whether masses were idolatry, as the test 
 express'd it, w cb was so worded that several good Protestants scrupl'd, 
 and S r William, tho' a learned man and excellent divine himselfe, had 
 some doubts about it. The Bishop's opinion was, that he might take 
 it, tho' he wish'd it had ben otherwise worded in the test. 
 
 16J9. 15 Jan. I went with my Lady Sunderland to Chelsey, and 
 din'd with the Countesse of Bristol [her mother] in the greate house, 
 formerly the Duke of Buckingham's, a spacious and excellent place 
 for the extent of ground and situation in a good aire. The house is 
 large, but ill contriv'd, tho' my Lord of Bristol, who purchas'd it after 
 he sold Wimbledon to my Lord Treasurer, expended much mony on 
 it. There were divers pictures of Titian and Vandyke, and some of 
 Bassano, very excellent, especialy an Adonis and Venus, a Duke of 
 Venice, a Butcher in his shambles selling meate to a Swiss e ; and of 
 Van-Dyke, my Lord of Bristol's picture, with the Earl of Bedford's 
 at length, in the same table. There was in the garden a rare collec- 
 tion of orange-trees, of which she was pleas'd to bestow some upon rac. 
 
 16. I supp'd this night with Mr. Secretary at one Mr. Houblon's, 
 a French merchant, who had his house furnish'd en Prince, and gave 
 us a splendid entertainment. 
 
 25. The Long Parliament, which had sat ever since the Restau- 
 ration, was dissolv'd by persuasion of the Lord Tress 1 , tho' divers ot 
 
 vol. I. 3 T 
 
506 
 
 them were believ'd to be his pensioners. At this all the politicians 
 were at a stand, they being very eager in pursuite of the late Plot of 
 the Papists. 
 
 30. Dr. Cudworth preached before the King at White-hall, on 
 2 Timothy 3. 5. reckoning up the perils of y e last times, in which, 
 amongst other wickednesse, Treasons should be one of the greatest, 
 applying it to the occasion, as committed under a forme of reforma- 
 tion and godlinesse ; concluding that the prophesy did intend more 
 particularly the present age, as one of the last times ; the sinns there 
 enumerated, more aboundantly reigning then ever. 
 
 2 Feb. Dr. Durell, Dean of Windsor, preach'd to the Household 
 at White-hall, on 1 Cor. 16. 22 ; he read y e whole sermon out of his 
 notes, which I had never before seene a Frenchman do, he being of 
 Jersey, and bred at Paris. 
 
 4. Dr. Pierce, Deane of Salisbury, preached on 1 John 4. 1, " Try 
 the Spirits, there being so many delusorie ones gone forth of late 
 into the world ;" he inveied against the pernicious doctrines of Mr. 
 Hobbes. 
 
 My brother Evelyn was now chosen Knight for y e County of Surrey, 
 carrying it against my Lord Longford and S r Adam Brown of Betch- 
 worth Castle. The country coming in to give him their suffrages were 
 so many, that I believe they eate and dranke him out neere ^.2,000, 
 by a most abominable costome. 
 
 1 April. My friend Mr. Godolphin was now made one of the Lords 
 Commissioners of the Treasury, and of the Privy Council. 
 
 4. The Bp. of Gloucester preach'd, in a manner very like Bishop 
 Andrews, full of divisions, and scholastical, and that with much quick- 
 nesse. The holy Communion followed. 
 
 20. Easter Day. Our Vicar preached exceeding well on 1 Cor. 
 5 and *J . The holy Communion followed, at which I and my daughter 
 Mary (now about 14 yeares old) received for the first time. The 
 Lord Jesus continue his grace unto her, and improve this blessed 
 beginning. 
 
 24. The Duke of York, voted against by the Commons for his 
 recusancy, went over to Flanders, which made much discourse. 
 
1079-] 
 
 507 
 
 4 June. I din'd with Mr. Pepys in the Tower, he having ben com- 
 mitted by y e House of Commons for misdemeanors in the Admiralty 
 when he was Secretary ; I believe he was unjustly charg'd*. Here I 
 saluted my Lords Stafford and Petre, who were committed for the 
 Popish Plot. 
 
 7> I saw the magnificent cavalcade and entry of the Portugal Am- 
 bassador. 
 
 17- I was godfather to a sonn of Sir Christ r Wren, Surveyor of his 
 Ma tvs buildings, that most excellent and learned person, with S r Wil- 
 liam Fermor and my Lady Viscountesse Newport, wife of the Trea- 
 surer of the Household. 
 
 Thence to Chelsey, to S r Stephen Fox, and my lady, in order to his 
 purchase of the C sse of Bristol's house there, which she desir'd me to 
 procure a chapman for. 
 
 19. I din'd at S r Rob 1 Clayton's with S r Rob 1 Vi ner, the greate 
 banquer. 
 
 22. There were now divers Jesuites executed about the Plot, and a 
 rebellion in Scotland of the Phanatics, so that there was a sad prospect 
 of public affairs. 
 
 25. The new Commissioners of the Admiralty came to visite me, 
 viz. S r Hen. Capel, brother to the Earle of Essex, Mr. Finch, eldest 
 son to the Lord Chancellor, Sir Humph. Winch, S r Tho. Meeres, Mr. 
 Hales, with some of y e Commissioners of the Navy. I went with them 
 to London. 
 
 1 July. I dined at S r William Godolphin's, and with that learned 
 gentleman went to take y e aire in Hyde Park, where was a glorious 
 cortege. 
 
 . 3 July. Sending a piece of venison to Mr. Pepys, still a prisoner, I 
 went and din'd with him. 
 
 6. Now were there papers, speeches, and libels, publiqly cried in 
 the streetes against y e Dukes of York and Lauderdale, &c. obnoxious 
 
 * Mr. Pepys was concerned in a contested election in 1684, and his opponent accused him of 
 being a Papist, which the House of Commons inquired into, but without finding any proof. By 
 Grey's Debates it appears that he was accused of having sent information to the French court 
 of the state of the English Navy. Most incredible ! 
 
508 
 
 to the Parliament, with too much and indeede too shameful a liberty ; 
 but y° people and Parliament had gotten head by reason of the vices of 
 the o reate ones. 
 
 There was now brought up to London a child, son of one Mr. 
 Wotton *, formerly amanuensis to Dr. Andrews, Bishop of Winton, 
 who both read and perfectly understood Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Arabic, 
 Syriac, and most of the modern languages ; disputed in Divinity, Law. 
 and all the Sciences ; was skilful in History both Ecclesiastical and 
 Profane; in Politics ; in a word, so universally and solidly learned at 
 1 1 yeares of age, that he was looked on as a miracle. Dr. Lloyd, one 
 of the most deepe learned divines of this nation in all sorts of literature, 
 with Dr. Burnet, who had severely examin'd him, came away asto- 
 nish'd, and told me they did not believe there had the like appear'd in 
 
 * The Rev. Henry Wotton, Minister of Wrentham, in Suffolk. This son was afterwards the 
 celebrated Wm. Wotton, the friend and defender of Dr. Bentley, and the antagonist of Sir William 
 Temple in the great Controversy about Antient and Modern Learning. His early and extraordi- 
 nary proficiency in letters and general knowledge of every kind, was commemorated by his father 
 in a pamphlet " On y e Education of Children," addressed to King Charles II. and reprinted in 
 1753, with the attestations of several learned men who had examined him, to the truth of his un- 
 common abilities and wonderful acquisitions in the different languages, both antient and modern ; 
 yet it is remarkable those eminent qualifications did not advance him in the line of his profession 
 beyond a Fellowship at Cambridge and a country parsonage, viz. Milton, in Buckinghamshire, 
 which was given him by the Earl of Nottingham, to whom he had been Chaplain. Sir Philip 
 Skippon, who lived at Wrentham in Suffolk, in a letter to Mr. John Ray, Sep. 18, 16/1, writes: 
 " I shall somewhat surprize you with what I have seen in a little boy, W m Wotton, 5 years old last 
 month, son of Mr. Wotton, minister of this parish, who hath instructed his child within the last 
 3 q rs of a year in the reading the Latin, Greek and Hebrew languages, w eh he can read almost 
 as well as English, and that tongue he could read at four years and three months old, 
 as well as most lads of twice his age." Sir Philip left a draft of a longer letter to Mr. Ray, in 
 which he adds, " He is not yet able to parse any language, but what he performs in turning the 3 
 learned tongues into English, is done by strength of memory, so that he is ready to mistake when 
 some words of different signification have near the same sound. His father hath taught him by 
 no rules, but only uses his memory in remembering words." — He was admitted of Catharine Hall, 
 Cambridge, April 1G/6, some months before he was 10 years old. He took the degree of B. A. 
 when only 12 years and 5 months old. Dr. Burnet, Bp. of Sarum, recommended him to Dr. 
 Lloyd, Bp. of St. Asaph, who took him as an assistant in making a Catalogue of his books, and 
 carried him to St. Asaph, and gave him the sinecure of Llandrillo in Denbighshire. He suffered 
 from the satirical pen of Swift ; but this is no wonder, as he had spoken of the Tale of a Tub as a 
 profane piece of ribaldry. He compiled Memoirs of the Cathedral Churches of St. David and St. 
 Asaph, which Browne Willis published. When very young, he remembered almost the whole of 
 any discourse he had heard, and repeated to Bp. Lloyd one of his own sermons. He died in \716, 
 aged 61, and was buried at Buxted in Sussex. 
 
1679-] 509 
 
 the world. He had onely ben instructed by his father, who being him- 
 selfe a learned person, confess'd that his sonn knew all that he himselfe 
 knew. But what was more admirable than his vast memory was his 
 judgment and invention, he being tried with divers hard questions, 
 which requir'd maturity of thought and experience. He was also 
 dextrous in Chronology, Antiquities, Mathematics. In sum, an Intel- 
 lectus imiversalis, beyond all that we reade of Picus Mirandula, and 
 other precoce witts, and yet withall a very humble child. 
 
 14. I went to see how things stood at Parson's Green, my lady 
 Viscountesse Mordaunt (now sick in Paris, whither she went for health) 
 having made me a trustee for her children, an office I could not refuse 
 to this most excellent, pious, and virtuous lady, my long acquaintance. 
 
 15. I din'd with Mr. Sidney Godolphin, now one of the Lords 
 Commiss rs of y c Treasury. 
 
 18. I went early to the Old Bailey Sessions-house, to the famous 
 trial of Sir George Wakeman, one of the Queene's physitians, and three 
 Benedictine Monks ; the first (whom I was well acquainted with, and 
 take to be a worthy gentleman abhorring such a fact) for intending to 
 poison the King ; the others, as accomplices to carry on the plott, to 
 subvert the government and introduce Popery. The Bench was crowded 
 with y e Judges, Lord Maior, Justices, and innumerable spectators. 
 The cheife accusers, Dr. Oates (as he call'd himselfe), and one Bedlow, 
 a man of inferior note. Their testimonys were not so pregnant, and I 
 feare much of it from hearsay, but swearing positively to some particu- 
 lars, which drew suspicion upon their truth ; nor did circumstances so 
 agree as to give either the Bench or Jury so entire satisfaction as was 
 expected. After therefore a long and tedious tryal of 9 houres, the 
 Jury brought them in not guilty, to the extraordinary triumph of the 
 Papists, and without sufficient disadvantage and reflections on the wit- 
 nesses, especialy Oates and Bedlow. This was a happy day for the 
 Lords in the Tower, who expecting their triall, had this gon against the 
 prisoners at y e bar, would all have ben in the utmost hazard. For my 
 part, I looke on Oates as a vain insolent man, pufFd up with the favour 
 of the Commons for having discover'd something realy true, more espe- 
 cialy as detecting the dangerous intrigue of Coleman, prov'd out of his 
 
510 
 
 owne letters, and of a generall designe which the Jesuited party of the 
 Papists ever had, and still have, to mine the Church of England ; hut 
 that he was trusted with those greate seacrets he pretended, or had any 
 solid ground for what he accus'd divers nohlemen of, I have many 
 reasons to induce my contrary heliefe. That among so many Com- 
 missions as he affirm'd to have deliver'd to them from P. Oliva* and 
 the Pope, he who made no scruple of opening all other papers, letters, 
 and seacrets, should not only not open any of those pretended Com- 
 missions, hut not so much as take any copy or witnesse of any one 
 of them, is almost miraculous. But the Commons (some leading per- 
 sons I meane of them) had so exalted him, that they tooke all he said 
 for gospell, and without more ado ruin'd all whom he nam'd to be 
 conspirators ; nor. did he spare whoever came in his way. But indeede 
 the murder of S r Edm. Godfrey, suspected to have ben compass'd by 
 the Jesuite party for his intimacy with Coleman (a buisy person whom 
 I also knew) and the feare they had that he was able to have discover'd 
 some things to their prejudice, did so exasperate not only the Commons 
 but all the Nation, that much of these sharpnesses against the more 
 honest Roman Catholics who liv'd peaceably, is to be imputed to that 
 horrid fact. 
 
 The Sessions ended, I din'd, or rather supp'd (so late it was), with 
 the Judges f in the large roome annex'd to y e place, and so return'd 
 home. Tho' it was not my costome or delight to be often present at 
 any capital trials, we having them commonly so exactly publish'd by 
 those who take them in short-hand, yet I was inclin'd to be at this 
 signal one, that by the ocular view of the carriages and other circum- 
 stances of the managers and parties concerned, I might informe my- 
 selfe, and regulate my opinion of a cause that had so alarm'd y e 
 whole nation. 
 
 22 July. Din'd at Clapham at S r D. Gauden's ; went thence with 
 him to Windsor, to assist him in a business with his Ma tv . I lay that 
 
 * Padre Oliva, General of the Order of Jesuits. 
 
 f The Judges were, Lord Chief Justice North, Mr. Justice Atkins, Mr. Justice Windham, Mr. 
 Justice Pemberton, Mr. Justice Dolben. 
 
16*79-] 511 
 
 night at Eton College, the Provost's lodgings (Dr. Craddock), where I 
 was courteously entertained. 
 
 23. To Court : after dinner I visited that excellent painter Verrio, 
 whose works in fresca in the King's palace at Windsor will celebrate 
 his name as long as those walls last. He shevv'd us his pretty garden, 
 choice flowers, and curiosities, he himselfe being a skilfull gardener. 
 
 I went to Clifden, that stupendous natural rock, wood, and prospect, 
 of y e Duke of Buckingham's*, buildings of extraordinary expence- 
 The grotts in y e chalky rock are pretty : 'tis a romantic object, and the 
 place altogether answers the most poetical description that can be made 
 of solitude, precipice, prospect, or whatever can contribute to a thing 
 so very like their imaginations. The stande, somewhat like Frascati as 
 to its front, and on y e platform, is a circular view to y e utmost verge ot 
 y e horizon, which with the serpenting of the Thames is admirable. The 
 staire case is for its materials singular ; the cloisters, descents, gardens, 
 and avenue thro' the wood, august and stately, but the land all about 
 wretchedly barren, and producing nothing but ferne. Indeede, as I 
 told his Ma tv that evening (asking me how I lik'd Clifden) without 
 flattery, that it did not please me so well as Windsor for the prospect 
 and park, which is without compare, there being but one only opening, 
 and that narrow, which led one to any variety, whereas that of Windsor 
 is every where greate and unconfin'd. 
 
 Returning I call'd at my cousin Evelyn's, who has a very pretty seate 
 in the forest, 2 miles behither Clifden, on a flat, with gardens exqui- 
 sitely kept, tho' large, and the house a stanch good old building, and 
 what was singular, some of the roomes floor'd dove-tail-wise without 
 a nail, exactly close. One of the closetts is parquetted with plaine 
 deale, set in diamond, exceeding stanch and pretty. 
 
 7 Aug. Dined at the Sheriffs, when, the Company of Drapers and 
 their wives being invited, there was a sumptuous entertainment ac- 
 
 * Cliefden's proud alcove, 
 
 The bower of wanton Shrewsbury and Love. Pope. 
 The Countess of Shrewsbury, whose husband having challenged the Duke, she is said to have 
 held the horse of the latter in the habit of a page whilst they fought. 
 
512 
 
 cording to the formes of the Citty with musiq, &c. comparable to any 
 Prince's service in Europ. 
 
 8. I went this morning to shew my Lord Chamberlaine, his Lady, 
 and the Dutchesse of Grafton, the incomparable work of Mr. Gibbons 
 the carver, whom I first recommended to his Ma tv , his house being 
 furnish'd like a cabinet, not onely with his owne work, but divers ex- 
 cellent paintings of y e best hands. Thence to Sir Stephen Foxes, 
 where we spent the day. 
 
 31. After evening service to see a neighbour, one Mr. Bohun, re- 
 lated to my sonn's late tutor of that name, a rich Spanish merchant, 
 living in a neate place, which he has adorned with many curiosities, 
 especialy severall carvings of Mr. Gibbons, and some pictures by 
 Streeter. 
 
 13 Sept. To Windsor, to congratulate his Ma ty on his recovery; I 
 kiss'd the Duke's hand now lately return'd from Flanders to visite his 
 brother the King, on which there were various bold and foolish dis- 
 courses, the Duke of Monmouth being sent away. 
 
 19. My Lord Sunderland, one of the principal Secretaries of State, 
 invited me to dinner, where was the King's natural sonn, the Earle 
 of Plymouth, the Earle of Shrewsbury, E. of Essex, E. of Mulgrave. 
 Mr. Hyde, and Mr. Godolphin. After dinner I went to prayers at Eton, 
 and visited Mr. Hen. Godolphin, fellow there, and Dr. Cradock. 
 
 25. Mr. Slingsby and Sig r Verrio came to dine with me, to whom 
 1 gave China oranges off my owne trees, as good, I think, as were ever 
 eaten. 
 
 6 Oct. A very wet and sickly season. 
 
 23. Dined at my L d Chamberlaines, the King being now newly re- 
 turned from his New-market recreations. 
 
 4 Nov. Din'd at the Lord Maior's, and in the evening went to y e 
 funerall of my pious, dear, and ancient learned friend, Dr. Jasper 
 Needham, who was buried at St. Bride's Church. He was a true and 
 holy Christian, and one who lov'd me with greate affection. Dr. Dove 
 preach'd with an eulogie due to his memory. I lost in this person one 
 of my dearest remaining sincere friends. 
 
1679-] 
 
 513 
 
 5. I was invited to dine at my Lord Tividale's, a Scotch Earle, a 
 learned and knowine: nobleman. We afterwards went to see Mr. 
 Mountague's new palace neere Bloomsbery, built by our curator Mr. 
 Hooke, somewhat after the French ; it was most nobly furnish'd, and 
 a fine, but too much expos'd garden*. 
 
 6. Din'd at the Countesse of Sunderland's, and was this evening at 
 the re-marriage-^ of the Dutchesse of Grafton to the Duke (his Ma- 
 jesty's natural sonn) she being now 12 years old. The ceremonie was 
 perform'd in my Lord Chamberlaines (her fathers) lodgings at White- 
 hall by y e Bishop of Rochester, his Ma tv being present. A sudden and 
 unexpected thing, when every body believ'd the first marriage would 
 have come to nothing ; but the measure being determin'd I was pri- 
 vately invited by my Lady, her mother, to be present. I confesse I 
 could give her little joy, and so I plainely told her, but she said the 
 King would have it so, and there was no going back. This sweetest, 
 hopefullest, most beautifull child, and most vertuous too, was sacri- 
 fic'd to a boy that had ben rudely bred, without any thing to encourage 
 them but his Ma'-' s pleasure. 1 pray God the sweete child find it to 
 her advantage, who, if my augury deceive me not, will in few years be 
 such a paragon as were fit to make the wife of the greatest Prince in 
 Europe. I staied supper, where his Ma tv sate betweene the Dutchesse 
 of Cleaveland (the mother of y e Duke of Grafton) and the sweete 
 Dutchesse the bride ; there were several greate persons and ladies, with- 
 out pomp. My love to my Lord Arlington's family and the sweete 
 child made me behold all this with regret, tho' as the Duke of Grafton 
 affects the sea, to which I find his father intends to use him, he may 
 emerge a plaine, usefull, and robust officer, and were he polish'd, a 
 tolerable person, for he is exceeding handsome, by far surpassing any 
 of the King's other naturall issue. 
 
 8 Nov. At Sir Stephen Fox's, and was agreeing for the Countesse 
 of Bristol's house at Chelsey within ,§£.500. 
 
 18. I din'd at my Lord Maiors [Sir Rob 1 Clayton] being desir'd by 
 the Countesse of Sunderland to carry her thither on a solemn day, that 
 
 * This is now the British Museum. See under the year 1683, Oct. f See p. 456. 
 
 VOL. I. 3 u 
 
514 
 
 [1679- 
 
 she might see the pomp and ceremonie of this Prince of Citizens, there 
 never having ben any, who, for y e stateliness of his palace, prodigious 
 feasting, and magnificence, exceeded him. This Lord Maior's ac- 
 quaintance had ben from the time of his being apprentice to one Mr. 
 Abbot, his uncJe *, who being a scrivener, and an honest worthy man, 
 one who was condemn'd to die at the beginning of the troubles 40 
 years past, as concern'd in the commission of array for K.-Charles I. 
 had escap'd with his life ; I often us'd his assistance in money mat- 
 ters. Rob 1 Clayton, then a boy, his nephew, became after his uncle 
 Abbot's death, so prodigiously rich and opulent, that he was reckon'd 
 one of the wealthiest citizens. He married a free-hearted woman, who 
 hecame his hospitable disposition, and having no children, with the 
 accession of his partner and fellow apprentice f , who also left him his 
 estate, he grew excessively rich. He was a discreete magistrate, and 
 tho' envied, I think without much cause. Some believ'd him guilty 
 of hard dealing, especialy with the Duke of Buckingham, much of 
 whose estate he had swallow'd, but I never saw any ill by him, con- 
 sidering the trade he was of. The reputation and known integrity of 
 his uncle Abbot brought all the royal party to him, by which he got not 
 onely greate credit, but vast wealth, so as he pass'd this office with in- 
 finite magnificence and honor. 
 
 20 Nov. I din'd with Mr. Slingsby, Master of the Mint, with my 
 wife, invited to heare musiq, which was exquisitely perform'd by foure 
 of the most renown'd masters ; Du Prue, a Frenchman, on y e lute ; 
 Sign 1- Bartholomeo, an Italian, on the harpsichord ; Nicolao on the vio- 
 lin ; but above all for its sweetnesse and novelty, the viol d 'amove of 5 
 wyre-strings plaied on with a bow, being but an ordinary violin, 
 play'd on lyre way by a German. There was also a flute douce, now 
 in much request for accompanying the voice. Mr. Slingsby, whose 
 sonn and daughter play'd skilfully, had these meetings frequently in 
 his house. 
 
 21. I din'd at my Lord Maior's to accompany my worthiest and ge- 
 nerous friend the Earl of Ossorie ; it was on a Friday, a private day, 
 
 * See p. 494. 
 
 t Mr. Morris. 
 
515 
 
 but the feast and entertainment might have become a King. Such an 
 hospitable costume and splendid magistrature dos no city in the world 
 shew, as I believe. 
 
 23. Dr. Allestree preach'd before the household on 11 St. Luke 2. 
 Dr. Lloyd on 28 Matt. 20. before the King, shewing with how little 
 reason the Papists applied those words of our Blessed Saviour to maintaine 
 the pretended infallibility they boast of. I never heard a more Christian 
 and excellent discourse : yet were some offended that he seemed to say 
 the Church of Rome was a true Church ; but 'twas a captious mistake, 
 for he never affirmed any thing that could be more to their reproach, 
 and that such was the present Church of Rome, showing how much 
 it had erred. There was not in this sermon so much as a shadow for 
 censure, no person of all the Cleargy having testified greater zeale 
 against the errors of the Papists than this pious and most learned per- 
 son. I dined at the Bishop of Rochester's, and then went to St. Paul's 
 to heare that greate wit Dr. Sprat, now newly succeeding Dr. Outram 
 in the cure of St. Margaret's. His talent was a great memory, never 
 making use of notes, a readinesse of expression in a most pure and plain 
 style of words, full of matter, easily deliver'd. 
 
 26 Nov. I met the Earle of Clarendon with the rest of my fellow 
 executors of y e Will of my late Lady Visc sse Mordaunt, viz. Mr. Lau- 
 rence Hyde, one of y e Commiss" of the Treasury, and lately Plenipo- 
 tentiary Ambassador at Nimeguen ; Andrew Newport, and S r Charles 
 Wheeler, to examine and audit and dispose of this year's accompt of 
 the estate of this excellent Lady, according to the direction of her will. 
 
 27- I went to see Sir John Stonehouse, with whom I was treating 
 a marriage between my sonn and his daughter-in-law. 
 
 28. Came over the Duke of Monmouth from Holland unexpectedly 
 to his Ma tv , whilst the Duke of York was on his journey to Scotland, 
 whither the King sent him to reside and governe. The bells and bon- 
 fires of the Citty at this arrival of the Duke of Monmouth publishing 
 their joy, to the no small regret of some at Court. This Duke, whom 
 for distinction they call'd the Protestant Duke (tho' the sonn of an 
 abandon'd woman), y e people made their idol. 
 
516 
 
 4 Dec. I din'd, together with Lord Ossorie and the E. of Chester- 
 field, at the Portugal Ambass rs , now newly come, at Cleaveland House, 
 
 a noble palace, too good for that infamous The staire-case is 
 
 sumptuous, and the gallerie and garden, but above all y e costly furni- 
 ture belonging to the Ambassador, especialy the rich Japan cabinets, 
 of which I think there were a dozen. There was a billiard-table, with 
 as many more hazards as ours commonly have ; the game being only to 
 prosecute y e ball till hazarded, without passing the port or touching 
 the pin ; if one miss hitting the ball every time, the game is lost, or if 
 hazarded. Tis more difficult to hazard a ball, tho' so many, than in 
 our table, by reason the bound is made so exactly even, and the edges 
 not stufF'd ; the balls also are bigger, and they for the most part use the 
 sharp and small end of y e billiard stick, which is shod with brasse or 
 silver. The entertainment was exceeding civil, but besides a good 
 olio, the dishes were trifling, hash'd and condited after their way, not 
 at all fit for an English stomach, which is for solid meate. There was 
 yet good fowle, but roasted to coale, nor were the sweetemeates good. 
 
 30 Dec. I went to meete S" John Stonehouse, and give him a par- 
 ticular of the settlement on my sonn, who now made his addresses to 
 the young lady his daughter-in-law, daughter of Lady Stonehouse. 
 
 1680. 25 Jan. Dr. Cave, author of " Primitive Christianity," &c. 
 a pious and learned man, preached at White-hall to the household on 3 
 James 17, concerning the duty of grace and charity. 
 
 30. I supped with Sir Stephen Fox, now made one of the Lords 
 Commissioners of the Treasury. 
 
 19 Feb. The writings for the settling joynture and other contracts 
 of marriage of my sonn were finished and sealed. The lady was to bring 
 5000/. in consideration of a settlement of 500/. a yeare present main- 
 tenance, which was likewise to be her jointure, and 500/. a yeare after 
 myne and my wife's decease. But with God's blessing it will be at the 
 least ] 000/. a yeare more in few yeares. I pray God make him worthy 
 of it, and a comfort to his excellent mother, who deserves much 
 from him. 
 
 21. Shrove Tuesday. My sonn was married to Mrs. Martha Spen- 
 cer, daughter to my Lady Stonehouse by a former gentleman, at St. 
 
1680.] 517 
 
 Andrew's Holborn, by our Vicar, borrowing the Church of Dr. Stil- 
 lingfleet, Deane of St. Paul's, the present incumbent. We afterwards 
 din'd at a house in Holborn ; and after the solemnity and dauncing was 
 don, they were bedded at S r John Stonehouse's lodging in Bow-streete, 
 Covent Garden. 
 
 26. To the R. Society, where I met an Irish Bishop with his Lady, 
 who was daughter to my worthy and pious friend Dr. Jeremy Taylor, 
 late Bp. of Downe and Connor ; they came to see the Repository. She 
 seemed to be a knowing woman, beyond the ordinary talent of her sex. 
 
 3 March. I din'd at my Lord Mayor's in order to the meeting my 
 Lady Beckford, whose daughter (a rich heiresse) I had recommended 
 to my brother of Wotton for his only sonn, she being the daughter of 
 the lady by Mr. Ersfield [Eversfield], a Sussex gentleman. 
 
 16. To London, to receive 3000Z. of my daughter in law's portion, 
 which was paid in gold. 
 
 26. The Dean of Sarum preach'd on Jerem. 45, 5, an hour and 
 halfe from his common-place book of kings and greate men retiring to 
 private situations. Scarce any thing of Scripture in it. 
 
 18 April. On the earnest invitation of the Earle of Essex I went 
 with him to his house at Cashioberie in Hartford-shire. It was on 
 Sunday, but going early from his house in the square of St. James, we 
 ariv'd by ten o'clock ; this he thought too late to go to church, and we 
 had prayers in his chapell. The house is new, a plaine fabric, built 
 by my friend Mr. Hugh May. There are divers faire and good 
 roomes, and excellent carving by Gibbons, especialy the chimney-piece 
 of y e Library. There is in the porch or entrance a painting by Verrio, 
 of Apollo and the Liberal Arts. One roome parquetted with yew, 
 which I lik'd well. Some of the chimney mantles are of Irish marble, 
 brought by my Lord from Ireland when he was Lord Lieutenant, and 
 not much inferior to Italian. The tympanum or gabal at the front is a 
 bass-relievo of Diana hunting, cut in Portland stone, handsomely 
 enough. I did not approve of the middle dores being round, but when 
 the Hall is finish'd as design'd, it being an oval with a cupola, together 
 with the other wing, it will be a very noble palace. The library is 
 large, and very nobly furnish'd, and all the books are richly bound 
 
518 
 
 [J 68o. 
 
 and gilded ; but there are no MSS. except the Parliament Rolls and 
 Journals, the transcribing and binding of w ch cost him, as he assur'd 
 me, 5001, 
 
 No man has ben more industrious than this noble Lord in planting 
 about his seate, adorn'd with walkes, ponds, and other rural elegan- 
 cies ; but the soile is stonie, churlish, and uneven, nor is the water 
 neere enough to the house, tho' a very swift and cleare streame run 
 within a flight shot from it in the vally, which may fitly be call'd Cold- 
 brook, it being indeede excessive cold, yet producing fair troutes. 'Tis 
 pitty the house was not situated to more advantage, but it seemes it was 
 built just where the old one was, which I believe he onely meant to 
 repaire ; this leads men into irremediable errors, and saves but a little. 
 
 The land about it is exceedingly addicted to wood, but the coldnesse 
 of the place hinders the growth. Black cherry-trees prosper even to 
 considerable timber, some being 80 foote long ; they make also very 
 handsome avenues. There is a pretty oval at the end of a faire walke, 
 set about with treble rows of Spanish chesnut trees. 
 
 The gardens are very rare, and cannot be otherwise, having so skill- 
 ful an artist to govern them as Mr. Cooke, who is, as to y e mechanic 
 part, not ignorant in Mathematics, and pretends to Astrologie. There 
 is an excellent collection of the choicest fruit. 
 
 As for my Lord, he is a sober, wise, judicious, and pondering person, 
 not illiterate beyond the rate of most noblemen in this age, very well 
 vers'd in English historie and affaires, industrious, frugal, methodical, 
 and every way accomplish'd. His Lady (being sister of the late Earle 
 of Northumberland) is a wise, yet somewhat melancholy woman, set- 
 ting her heart too much on the little lady her daughter, of whom she 
 is over fond. They have an hopeful son at y e Academic 
 
 My Lord was not long since come from his Lord Lieutenancy of 
 Ireland, where he shew'd his abilities in administration and govern- 
 ment, as well as prudence in considerably augmenting his estate with- 
 out reproch. He- had ben Ambass r Extraordinary in Denmark, and, 
 in a word, such a person as became the sonn of that worthy Hero 
 his father to be, the late Lord Capel, who lost his life for K. Charles I. 
 
 We spent our time in the mornings in walking or riding, and con- 
 
1680.] 
 
 519 
 
 triving [alterations], and the afternoones in the Library, so as I pass'd 
 my time for 3 or 4 daies with much satisfaction. He was pleas'd in 
 conversation to impart to me divers particulars of state, relating to the 
 
 present times. He being no great friend to the D was now laid 
 
 aside, his integritie and abilities being not so suiteable in this con- 
 juncture. 21. I returned to London. 
 
 30 April. To a meeting of the executors of late Visc sse Mordaunt's 
 estate, to consider of the sale of Parsons Greene^ being in treaty with 
 Mr. Loftus, and to settle the halfe yeare's account. 
 
 1 May. Was a meeting of the feoffees of the poore of our parish. 
 This yeare I would stand one of the collectors of their rents, to give 
 example to others. My sonn was added to the feoffees. 
 
 This afternoone came to visit me S' Edw. Deering of Surrendon in 
 Kent, one of the Lords of the Treasury, with his daughter, married to 
 my worthy friend S r Robert Southwell, Clerk of the Council, now 
 Extraordinary Envoye to the Duke of Brandenburgh, and other 
 Princes in Germanie, as before he had ben in Portugal, being a sober, 
 wise, and virtuous gentleman. 
 
 13. I was at the funeral of old Mr. Shish, master shipwright of his 
 Ma^ s Yard here, an honest and remarkable man, and his death a 
 public losse, for his excellent successe in building ships (tho' altogether 
 illiterate), and for breeding up so many of his children to be able artists. 
 I held up the pall with three knights, who did him that honour, and he 
 was worthy of it. It was the costome of this good man to rise in the 
 night, and to pray kneeling in his owne coffin, w ch he had lying by 
 him many yeares. He was borne that famous yeare the Gunpowder 
 plot 1605. 
 
 14 June. Came to dine with us the Countesse of Clarendon, Dr. 
 Lloyd, Deane of Bangor, (since Bp. of St. Asaph,) Dr. Burnett, 
 author of the History of the Reformation, and my old friend Mr. Hen- 
 shaw. After dinner we all went to see the Observatory and Mr. 
 Flamsted, who shew'd us divers rare instruments, especialy the greate 
 quadrant. 
 
 24 July. Went with my wife and daughter to Windsor, to see that 
 stately Court, now neere finish'd. There was erected in the Court the 
 
520 
 
 [i68o. 
 
 King on horseback, lately cast in copper, and set on a rich pedestal of 
 white marble, the worke of Mr. Gibbons, at the expence of Toby 
 Rustate, a page* of the back staires, who by his wonderful frugality 
 had ariv'd to a greate estate in mony, and did many works of charity, 
 as well as this of gratitude to his Master, w ch cost him 1000/. He is 
 a very simple, ignorant, but honest and loyal creature. 
 
 We all din'd at the Countesse of Sunderland's, afterwards to see 
 Sign 1- Verrio's garden, thence to Eton College to salute the Provost, 
 and heard a Latine speech of one of the Alumni (it being at the elec- 
 tion), and were invited to supper, but took our leave, and got to Lon- 
 don that night in good time. 
 
 26. My most noble and illustrious friend, the Earle of Ossorie, es- 
 pying me this morning after sermon in the privy gallery, calling to me, 
 told me he was now going his journey (meaning to Tangier, whither he 
 was designed Governor and General of the Forces, to regaine the losses 
 we had lately sustain'd from the Moors, when Inchequeen was Gover- 
 nor). I ask'd if he would not call at my house (as he always did when- 
 ever he went out of England on any exploit) ; he said he must embark 
 at Portsmouth, " wherefore let you and I dine together to-day, I am quite 
 alone, and have something to impart to you ; I am not well, shall be 
 private, and desire your company." Being retir'd to his lodgings and 
 set down on a couch, he sent to his secretary for the copy of a letter w ch 
 he had written to Lord Sunderland (Secretary of State), wishing me to 
 reade it; it was to take notice how ill he resented it that he should tell 
 the King before Lord Ossorie's face, that Tangier was not to be kept, 
 but would certainly be lost, and yet added that 'twas fit Lord Ossorie 
 should be sent, that they might give some account of it to the world, 
 meaning (as suppos'd) the next Parliament, when all such miscarriages 
 would probably be examin'd ; this Lord Ossorie took very ill of Lord 
 Sunderland, and not kindly of the King, who resolving to send him 
 with an incompetent force, seem'd, as his Lordship tooke it, to be 
 willing to cast him away, not only on a hazardous adventure, but in 
 
 * Mr. Tobias Rustate. He was a great benefactor to Jesus College, Cambridge, in particular, by 
 an endowment of scholarships there for the benefit of young students, orphan sons of Clergymen. 
 
1680.] 
 
 521 
 
 most men's opinion an impossibility, seeing there was not to be above 3 
 or 400 horse and 4000 foote for the garrison and all, both to defend y e 
 towne, forme a camp, repulse the enemy, and fortifie what ground 
 they should get in. This touch'd my Lord deeply, that he should be 
 so little consider'd as to put him on a businesse in which he should pro- 
 bably not only loose his reputation, but be charg'd with all the mis- 
 carriages and ill successe ; whereas at first they promis'd 6000 foote 
 and 600 horse effective. My Lord being an exceeding brave and 
 valiant person, and who had so approv'd himself in divers signal 
 batailes, both at sea and land ; so belov'd, and so esteem'd by y u people, 
 as one they depended upon all occasions worthy of such a captain ; he 
 looked on this as too greate an indifference in his Ma*' after all his ser- 
 vices, and the merits of his father the Duke of Ormond, and a designe 
 of some who envied his virtue. It certainly tooke so deepe roote in his 
 mind, that he who was the most void of feare in the world (and assur'd 
 me he would go to Tangier with 10 men if his Ma^ commanded him) 
 could not beare up against this unkindness. Having disburden'd him- 
 selfe of this to me after dinner, he went with his Ma ty to the Sheriffs 
 at a greate supper in Fishmongers Hall, but finding himselfe ill, tooke 
 his leave immediately of his Ma^, and came back to his lodging. Not 
 resting well this night, he was persuaded to remove to Arlington House 
 for better accommodation. His disorder turn'd to a malignant fever, w ch 
 increasing after all that six of the most able physicians could do, he 
 became delirious, with intervals of sense, during which Dr. Lloyd 
 (after Bp. of St. Asaph) administer'd the holy sacrament, of which I also 
 participated. He died the Friday following, the 30 July, to the uni- 
 versal griefe of all that knew or heard of his greate worth, nor had any 
 a greater losse than myselfe. Oft would he say I was the oldest ac- 
 quaintance he had in England (when his Father was in Ireland), it 
 being now of above 30 yeares, contracted abroad, when he rid in 
 the Academie in Paris, and when we were seldome asunder. His Ma ty 
 never lost a worthier subject, nor father a better or more dutiful son ; 
 a loving, generous, good-natur'd, and perfectly obliging friend ; one 
 who had done innumerable kindnesses to severall before they knew 
 it ; nor did he ever advance any that were not worthy ; no one more 
 vol. i. 3 x 
 
522 
 
 brave, more modest : none more humble, sober, and every way vir- 
 tuous. Unhappy England in this illustrious person's loss ! Universal 
 was the mourning for him and the eulogies on him ; I staied night and 
 day by his bed-side to his last gasp, to close his deare eyes ! O sad 
 father, mother, wife, and children ! What shall I add ! he deserv'd all 
 that a sincere friend, a brave souldier, a virtuous courtier, a loyal sub- 
 ject, an honest man, a bountifull master, and good Christian could 
 deserve of his Prince and Country. One thing more let me note, that 
 he often express'd to me the abhorrence he had of that base and unwor- 
 thy action which he was put upon, of engaging the Smyrna fleete in 
 time of peace, in which tho' he behav'd himselfe like a greate captaine, 
 yet he told me it was the onely blot in his life, and troubled him exceed- 
 ingly. Tho' he was commanded, and never examin'd further when he 
 was so, yet he always spake of it with regret and detestation. The 
 Countesse was at the seate of her daughter, the Countesse of Derby, 
 almost 200 miles off. 
 
 30 Aug 1 . I went to visite a French gent n , one Mons r Chardine, who 
 having ben thrice in the East Indies, Persia, and other remote coun- 
 tries, came hither in our returne ships from those parts, and it being 
 reported that he was a very curious and knowing man, I was desir'd by 
 the R. Society to salute him in their name, and to invite him to honour 
 them with his company. S r Jo. Hoskins and S r Chrif Wren accompa- 
 nied me. We found him at his lodgings in his Eastern habit, a very 
 handsome person, extremely affable, a modest, well-bred man, not in- 
 clin'd to talke wonders. He spake Latine, and understood Greeke, Ara- 
 bic, and Persian, from 11 years travels in those parts, whither he went 
 in search of jewells, and was become very rich. He seem'd about 36 
 years of age. After the usual civilities we ask'd some account of y e ex- 
 traordinary things he must have seene in travelling over land to those 
 places where few, if any, Northern Europeans us'd to go, as the 
 Black and Caspian Sea, Mingrelia, Bagdat, Nineveh, Persepolis, 
 &c. He told us that the things most worthy of our sight would be, the. 
 draughts he had caus'd to be made of some noble ruines, &c. for that, 
 besides his own little talent that way, he had carried two good painters 
 with him, to draw landskips, measure and designe the remaines of the 
 
523 
 
 palace w cb Alexander burnt in his frolic at Persepolis, with divers temples, 
 columns, relievos, and statues, yet extant, w ch he affirm'd to be sculp- 
 ture far exceeding any thing he had observ'd either at Rome, in Greece, 
 or in any other part of y e world where magnificence was in estimation. 
 He said there was an inscription in letters not intelligible, though en- 
 tire. He was sorry he could not gratify the curiosity of the Society at 
 present, his things not being yet out of the ship, but would wait on 
 them with them on his returne from Paris, whither he was going the 
 next day, but with intention to returne suddenly, and stay longer here 
 the persecution in France not suffering Protestants, and he was one, to 
 be quiet. He told us that Nineveh was a vast citty, now all buried in 
 her ruines, the inhabitants building on y e subterranean vaults, which 
 were, as appear'd, the first stories of the old Cittie ; that there were fre- 
 quently found huge vasas of fine earth, columns, and other antiquities; 
 that the straw which the Egvptians requir'd of y e Israelites, was not 
 to burne, or cover the rowes of bricks as we use, but being chopp'd 
 small to mingle with the clay, which being dried in the sun (for they 
 bake not in the furnaces) would else cleave asunder ; that in Persia are 
 yet a race of Igniculi who worship the sun and the fire as Gods ; that 
 y e women of Georgia and Mingrelia were universaly, and without any 
 compare, the most beautifull creatures for shape, features, and figure, 
 iu the world, and therefore the Grand Seignior and Bashaws had had 
 from thence most of their wives and concubines ; that there had, within 
 these hundred yeares ben Amazons amongst them, that is to say, a sort 
 or race of valiant women, given to warr ; that Persia was extremely 
 fertile; he spoke also of Japan and China, and of the many greate er- 
 rors of our late geographers, as we suggested matter for discourse. We 
 then took our leaves, failing of seeing his papers, but it was told us br- 
 others that indeede he durst not open or shew them till he had first 
 shewed them to the French King, but of this he himselfe said nothing. 
 
 2 Sept. I had an opportunity, his Ma tv being still at Windsor, of 
 seeing his private library at White-hall, at my full ease. I went with 
 expectation of finding some curiosities, but though there were about 
 1000 volumes, there were few of importance which I had not perus'd 
 before. They consisted chiefly of such books as had from time to time 
 
524 
 
 [1680. 
 
 ben dedicated or presented to him ; a few Histories, some Travels and 
 French bookes, aboundance of mapps and sea charts, entertainments 
 and pomps, buildings and pieces relating to the navy, some mathema- 
 tical instruments ; but what was most rare were 3 or 4 Romish brevia- 
 ries, with a great deal of miniature and monkish painting and gilding, 
 one of which is most exquisitely don, both as to the figures, grotesques, 
 and compartments, to the utmost of that curious art. There is another 
 in which I find written by the hand of K. Hen. VII. his giving it to his 
 deare daughter Margaret, afterwards Queene of Scots, in w cb he de- 
 sires her to pray for his soule, subscribing his name at length. There 
 is also y e processe of the philosophers great elixer, represented in divers 
 pieces of excellent miniature, but the discourse is in High Dutch, a 
 MS. There is another MS. in 4to, of above 300 yeares old in French, 
 being an institution of physic, and in the botanical part the plants are 
 curiously painted in miniature : also a folio MS. of good thicknesse, 
 being the severall exercises, as Theames, Orations, Translations, &c. of 
 K. Edward VI. all written and subscrib'd by his owne hand, and with 
 his name very legible, and divers of the Greeke interleav'd and cor- 
 rected after the manner of schole boys exercises, and that exceedingly 
 well and proper, with some epistles to his preceptor, which shew 
 that young Prince to have ben extraordinarily advanc'd in learning, 
 and as Cardan, who had ben in England affirm'd, stupendously 
 knowing for his age. There is likewise his Journal*, no lesse testifying 
 his early ripeness and care about the affaires of state. 
 
 There are besides many pompous volumes, some emboss'd with gold, 
 and intaglias on achats, medailes, &c. I spent 3 or 4 intire daies, 
 lock'd up and alone, among these bookes and curiosities. In the rest 
 of the private lodgings contiguous to this, are divers of the best pictures 
 of the greate masters, Raphael, Titian, &c. and, in my esteeme, above 
 all, the Noli me tang ere of our blessed Saviour to Mary Magdalen after 
 his Resurrection, of Hans Holbein, than which I-never saw so much 
 reverence and kind of heavenly astonishment express'd in a picture. 
 
 * A note is added, that Dr. Burnet has transcribed many remarks out of this in his History of 
 the Reformation. 
 
i6So.] 525 
 
 There are also divers curious clocks, watches, and pendules of exqui- 
 site work, and other curiosities. An ancient woman, who made these 
 lodgings cleane, and had all y e keys, let me in at pleasure for a small 
 reward, by meanes of a friend. 
 
 6 Sept. I din'd with Sir Stephen Fox, now one of Lords Com- 
 missioners of y c Treasury. This gentleman came first a poore boy from 
 the quire of Salisbury, then was taken notice of by Bp. Duppa, and 
 afterwards waited on my Lord Percy (brother to Algernon E. of Nor- 
 thumberland), who procur'd for him an inferior place amongst the 
 Clerks of the Kitchen and Greene Cloth side, where he was found so 
 humble, diligent, industrious, and prudent in his behaviour, that his 
 Ma ty being in exile, and Mr. Fox waiting, both the King and Lords 
 about him frequently employ'd him about their affaires ; trusted him 
 both with receiving and paying the little mony they had. Returning 
 with his Ma ty to England, after greate wants and greate sufferings, his 
 Ma 1 * found him so honest and industrious, and withall so capable and 
 ready, that being advanc'd from Clerk of y e Kitchen to that of y e 
 Greene-Cloth, he procur'd to be Paymaster to the whole Army, and 
 by his dexterity and punctual dealing he obtain'd such credit among 
 the banquers, that he was in a short time able to borrow vast sums of 
 them upon any exigence. The continual turning thus of mony, and 
 the souldiers moderate allowance to him for his keeping touch with 
 them, did so inrich him, that he is believ'd to be worth at least 200,000/. 
 honestly gotten and unenvied, which is next to a miracle. With all 
 this he continues as humble and ready to do a courtesie as ever he was. 
 He is generous, and lives very honorably, of a sweete nature, well 
 spoken, well bred, and is so highly in his Ma tvs esteeme, and so usefull, 
 that being long since made a knight, he is also advanc'd to be one of 
 y e Lords Commiss rs of y e Treasurie, and has y e revertion of the Cofferer's 
 place after Harry Brouncker. He has married his eldest daughter to 
 my Lord Cornwallis, and gave her 12,000 pounds, and restor'd that 
 intangl'd family besides. He match'd his eldest son to Mrs. Trollop, 
 who brings with her (besides a greate sum) neere, if not altogether 
 2000/. per ann. S r Stephen's Lady (an excellent woman) is sister to 
 Mr. Whittle, one of the King's chirurgeons. In a word, never was 
 
526 
 
 man more fortunate than Sir Stephen ; he is an handsom person, ver- 
 tuous, and very religious. 
 
 23 Sept. Came to my house some German strangers and Sig r Pietro 
 a famous musitian, who had ben long in Sweden in Queene Christina's 
 Court ; he sung admirably to a guitar, and had a perfect good tenor 
 and base, and had set to Italian composure many of Abraham Cowley's 
 pieces, which shew'd extremely well. He told me that in Sweden the 
 heate in some part of summer was as excessive as y e cold in winter ; 
 so cold, he affirm'd, that the streetes of all the townes are desolate, no 
 creatures stirring in them for many moneths, all the inhabitants retir- 
 ing to their stoves. He spake high things of that romantic Queene's 
 learning and skill in languages, the majestie of her behaviour, her ex- 
 ceeding wit, and that the histories she had read of other countries, es- 
 pecialy of Italy and Rome, had made her despise her owne. That the 
 real occasion of her resigning her Crowne was the Noblemen's impor- 
 tuning her to marrie, and the promise which the Pope had made her of 
 procuring her to be Queene of Naples, which also caus'd her to change 
 her religion ; but she was cheated by his crafty Holiness*, working on 
 her ambition ; that the reason of her killing her Secretary at Fontaine 
 Beleauef was his revealing that intrigue with the Pope. But after 
 all this I rather believe it was her mad prodigality and extreame vanity, 
 which had consum'd those vast treasures the greate Adolphus, her 
 father, had brought out of Germany during his [campaigns] there and 
 wonderfull successes ; and that if she had not voluntarily resign'd, as 
 foreseeing the event, the Estates of her Kingdom would have compell'd 
 her to do so. 
 
 30 Oct. I went to London to be private, my birthday being y e next 
 day, and I now ariv'd at my sixtieth year, on which I began a more 
 solemn survey of my whole life, in order to the making and confirming 
 my peace with God, by an accurate scrutinie of all my actions past, as 
 far as I was able to call them to mind. How difficult and uncertaine, 
 yet how necessary a work ! The Lord be mercifull to me, and accept 
 
 * Pope Alexander VII. of the family of Chighi at Sienna, 
 f So called and written at that time. 
 
527 
 
 me ! Who can tell how oft he offendeth ? Teach me therefore so to 
 number my daies that I may apply my heart to wisdom, and make my 
 calling and election sure. Amen, Lord Jesus ! 
 
 31. I spent this whole day in exercises. A stranger preach'd at 
 White-hall on 16 Luke 30, 31*. I then went to St. Martin's, where 
 y e Bp. of St. Asaph preach'd on 1 Peter 3, 15. ; y e holy communion 
 follow'd, at which I participated, humbly imploring God's assistance 
 in the greate worke I was entering into. In y e afternoone I heard 
 Dr. Sprat at St. Margaret's on 17 Acts 11. 
 
 I began and spent the whole weeke in examining my life, begging 
 pardon for my faults, assistance and blessing for the future, that I 
 might in some sort be prepar'd for the time that now drew neere, and 
 not have the greate work to begin when one can worke no longer. The 
 Lord Jesus help and assist me ! I therefore stirr'd little abroad till the 
 5 Nov r , when I heard Dr. Tenison, the now Vicar of St. Martin's ; 
 Dr. Lloyd, the former incumbent, being made Bishop of St. Asaph. 
 
 7- I participated of y e blessed Communion, finishing and confirming 
 my resolutions of giving myselfe up more intirely to God, to whom I 
 had now most solemnly devoted the rest of my poore remainder of life 
 in this world ; the Lord enabling me, who am an unprofitable servant, 
 a miserable sinner, yet depending on his infinite goodnesse and mercy, 
 accepting my endeavours. 
 
 15. Came to dine with us Sir Richard Anderson, his lady, sonn, 
 and wife, sister to my daughter in law. 
 
 30 Nov. The anniversary election at the Royall Society, brought me 
 to London, where was chosen President that excellent person and greate 
 philosopher Mr. Robert Boyle, who indeede ought to have ben the very 
 first ; but neither his infirmitie nor his modestie could now any longer 
 excuse him. I desired I might for this yeare be left out of the Council, 
 by reason my dwelling was in the country. The Society according to 
 costome dined together. 
 
 This signal day begun the trial (at which I was present) of my Lord 
 Viscount Stafford, for conspiring the death of the King ; second sonn 
 
 * This was probably to the King's household early in the morning. 
 
528 
 
 [1680. 
 
 to my Lord Thomas Howard Earle of Arundel and Surry, Earle Ma- 
 rishall of England and grandfather to the present Duke of Norfolk, 
 whom I so well knew, and from which excellent person I received so 
 many favours. It was likewise his birth-day. The trial was in West- 
 minster Hall, before the King, Lords, and Commons, just in the same 
 manner as 40 yeares past, the greate and wise Earle of Strafford (there 
 being but one letter differing their names) receiv'd his trial for pretended 
 ill government in Ireland, in the very same place, this Lord Stafford's 
 father being then High Steward. The place of sitting was now exalted 
 some considerable height from the paved floore of the Hall, with a stage 
 of boards. The throne, woolpacks for the Judges, long formes for the 
 Peeres, chaire for the Lord Steward, exactly ranged, as in the House 
 of Lords. The sides on both hands scaffolded to the very roofe for the 
 Members of the House of Commons. At the upper end and on the 
 right side of the King's state, was a box for his Ma tv , and on the left 
 others for the greate ladyes, and over heade a gallerie for Ambass rs and 
 public Ministers. At the lower end or entrance was a barr, and place 
 for y e prisoner, the Lieut 1 of the Tower of London, the axe- bearer and 
 guards, my Lord Stafford's two daughters, the Marchionesse of Win- 
 chester being one ; there was likewise a box for my Lord to retire into. 
 At the right hand, in another box, somewhat higher, stood the Wit- 
 nesses; at the left the Managers, in the name of the Commons of Eng- 
 land, viz. Serjeant Maynard (the greate lawyer, the same who prose- 
 cuted the cause against the Earle of Strafford 40 yeares before, being 
 now neere 80 yeares of age) S r William Jones, late Attorney General, 
 S r Francis Wilmington a famous pleader, and Mr. Treby now Recorder 
 of London, not appearing in their gownes as lawyers, but in their 
 cloakes and swords as representing the Commons of England : to these 
 were joined Mr. Hampden, Mr. Sacheverell, Mr. Poule, Col. Titus, 
 S r Tho. Lee, all gentlemen of quality, and noted parliamentary men. 
 The two first dayes, in which were read the commission and impeach- 
 ment, were but a tedious entrance into matter of fact, at which I was but 
 little present. But on Thursday I was commodiously seated amongst 
 the Commons, when the witnesses were sworn and examined. The 
 principal witnesses were Mr. Oates (who call'd himselfe Dr.) Mr. 
 
529 
 
 Dugdale, and Turberville. Oates swore that he deliver'd a commission 
 to Vise* Stafford from the Pope, to be Paymaster Generall to an army 
 intended to be rais'd. Dugdale, that being at Lord Aston's, the pri- 
 soner dealt with him plainly to murder his Majestie : and Turberville, 
 that at Paris he also propos'd the same to him. 
 
 3. The depositions of my Lord's witnesses were taken, to invalidate 
 the King's witnesses ; they were very slight persons, but, being 15 or 
 16, they tooke up all that day, and in truth they rather did my Lord 
 injury than service. 
 
 4. Came other witnesses of the Commons to corroborate the King's, 
 some being Peeres, some Commons, with others of good qualitie, who 
 tooke off all the former day's objections, and set the King's witnesses 
 recti in Curia. 
 
 6. Sir W ,n Jones summ'd up the evidence ; to him succeeded all the 
 rest of the Managers, and then Mr. Hen. Poule made a vehement ora- 
 tion. After this my Lord, as on all occasions, and often during the 
 trial, spoke in his owne defence, denying the charge altogether, and 
 that he had never seene Oates or Turberville at the time and manner 
 affirm 'd : in truth, their testimonie did little weigh with me ; Dugdale's 
 onely seem'd to press hardest, to which my Lord spake a greate while, 
 but confusedly, without any method. One thing my Lord said as to 
 Oates, which I confesse did exceedingly affect me ; that a person who 
 during his depositions should so vauntingly brag that tho' he went over 
 to the Church of Rome, yet he was never a Papist, nor of their religion, 
 all the time that he seem'd to apostatize from the Protestant, but only 
 as a spie ; tho' he confess'd he tooke their sacrament, worshipp'd 
 images, went thro' all their oathes and discipline of their proselytes, 
 swearing secrecy and to be faithfull, but with intent to come over againe 
 and betray them ; that such an hypocrite, that had so deeply prevari- 
 cated as even to turne idolater (for so we of the Church of England 
 term'd it), attesting God so solemnly that he was intirely theirs and 
 devoted to their interest, and consequently (as he pretended) trusted; 
 I say that the witnesse of such a proflygate wretch should be admitted 
 against the life of a Peere, this my Lord look'd upon as a monstrous 
 thing, and such as must needs redound to the dishonour of our Reli- 
 
 vol. i. 3 Y 
 
530 
 
 [1680. 
 
 gion and Nation. And verily I am of his Lordship's opinion ; such a 
 man's testimonie should not he taken against the life of a dog. But 
 the merit of something material which he discover'd against Coleman, 
 put him in such esteeme with the Parliament, that now, I fancy, he 
 stuck at nothing, and thought every hody was to take what he said 
 for Gospel. The consideration of this and some other circumstances 
 began to stagger me ; particularly how 'twas possible that one who 
 went among the Papists on such a designe, and pretended to be in- 
 trusted with so many letters and commissions from the Pope and the 
 party, nay and deliver'd them to so many greate persons, should not 
 reserve one of them to shew, nor so much as one copy of any commis- 
 sion, which he who had such dexterity in opening letters might cer- 
 tainly have done, to the undeniable conviction of those whom he ac- 
 cus'd : but, as I said, he gain'd credit on Coleman ; but as to others 
 whom he so madly flew upon, 1 am little inclin'd to believe his testi- 
 mony, he being so slight a person, so passionate, ill bred, and of such 
 impudent behaviour ; nor is it likely that such piercing politicians as the 
 Jesuits should trust him with so high and so dangerous seacrets. 
 
 7- On Tuesday I was againe at the trial, when judgment was de- 
 manded ; and after my Lord had spoken what he could in denying the 
 fact, the Managers answering the objections, the Peeres adjourned to 
 their house, and within two houres returned againe. There was in the 
 meane time this question put to the Judges, " whether there being but 
 one witnesse to any single crime or act, it could amount to convict a 
 man of treason." They gave an unanimous opinion that in case of trea- 
 son they all were overt acts, for tho' no man should be condemn 'd by one 
 witnesse for any one act, yet for several acts to the same intent, it was 
 valid, which was my Lord's case. This being past and the Peeres in 
 their seates againe, the Lord Chancellor Finch (this day the Lord High 
 Steward) removing to the woolsack next his Ma tys state, after sum- 
 moning the Lieutenant of the Tower to bring forth his prisoner, and 
 proclamation made for silence, demanded of every peer (who were in all 
 86) whether William Lord Viscount Stafford were guilty of the treason 
 laid to his charge, or not guilty. Then the Peere spoken to, standing 
 
1 680.] 531 
 
 up, and laying his right hand on his breast, said Guilty, or Not guilty, 
 upon my honour, and then sate down, the Lord Steward noting their 
 suffrages as they answered upon a paper : when all had done, the 
 number of Not guilty being but 31, the Guilty 55 : and then after pro- 
 clamation for silence againe, the Lord Steward directing his speech to 
 the prisoner, against whom the axe was turned edgeways, and not be- 
 fore, in aggravation of his crime, he being ennobled by the King's fa- 
 ther, and since received many favours from his present Majesty, (after 
 enlarging on his offence) deploring first his own unhappinesse that he 
 who had never condemn'd any man before, should now be necessitated 
 to begin with him ; he then pronounc'd sentence of death by hanging, 
 drawing, and quartering, according to forme, with greate solemnity 
 and dreadfull gravity, and after a short pause, told the prisoner that he 
 believ'd the Lords would intercede for the omission of some circum- 
 stances of his sentence, beheading only excepted ; and then breaking 
 his white staff, the Court was dissolved. My Lord Stafford during all 
 this latter part spake but little, and only gave their Lordships thanks 
 after the sentence was pronounced ; and indeede behaved himselfe mo- 
 destly and as became him. 
 
 It was observ'd that all his owne relations of his name and family 
 condemn'd him, except his nephew the Earle of Arundel, son to the 
 Duke of Norfolk. And it must be acknowledg'd that y e whole trial 
 was carried on with exceeding gravity: so stately and august an ap- 
 pearance I had never seene before ; for besides the innumerable specta- 
 tors of gentlemen and forraine ministers, who saw and heard all the 
 proceedings, the prisoner had the consciences of all the Commons of 
 England for his accusers, and all the Peeres to be his Judges and Jury. 
 He had likewise the assistance of what Counsel he would, to direct 
 him in his plea, who stood by him. And yet I can hardly think that 
 a person of his age and experience should engage men whom he never 
 saw before (and one of them that came to visite him as a stranger at 
 Paris) point blanq to murder the King: God onely who searches hearts 
 can discover the truth. Lord Stafford was not a man belov'd, especialy 
 of his own family. 
 
532 [1681. 
 
 12. This evening looking out of my chamber window towards the 
 west, I saw a meteor of an obscure bright colour, very much in shape 
 like the blade of a sword, the rest of the skie very serene and cleare. 
 What this may portend God onely knows ; but such another pheno- 
 menon I remember to have seene in 1640, aboute the Triall of the greate 
 Earle of Strafford, preceeding our bloudy Rebellion. I pray God 
 avert his judgements. We have had of late severall comets, which tho' 
 I believe appeare from naturall causes, and of themselves operate not, 
 yet I cannot despise them. They may be warnings from God, as they 
 commonly are forerunners of his animadversions. After many daies and 
 nights of snow, clowdy and dark weather, the comet was very much 
 wasted. 
 
 17 Dec. My daughter in law was brought to bed of a sonn, 
 christen'd Richard. 
 
 22. A solemn publicq fast that God would prevent all Popish plotts, 
 avert his judgements, and give a blessing to y e proceedings of Parlia- 
 ment now assembl'd, and which struck at the succession of the Duke 
 of York. 
 
 29. The Viscount Stafford was beheaded on Tower-hill. 
 
 1681, 10 Feb. I was at the wedding of my nephew John Evelyn of 
 Wotton, married by the Bp. of Rochester at Westminster in Henry 
 VII. Chapell, to the daughter and heyre of Mr. Eversfield of Sussex, 
 her portion ,^.8000. The solemnity was kept with a few friends 
 onely at Lady Beckford's, the lady's mother. 
 
 8 Mar. Visited and din'd at y e Earle of Essex's, with whom I spent 
 most of the afternoone alone. Thence to my (yet living) godmother 
 and kinswoman Mrs. Keightley, sister to S r Tho. Evelyn and niece to 
 my father, being now 86 yeares of age, sprightly, and in perfect health, 
 her eyes serving her as well as ever, and of a comely countenance, that 
 one would not suppose her above 50. 
 
 27- The Parliament now conven'd at Oxford. -Greate expectation 
 of his Royal Highness's case as to the succession, against which the 
 House was set. 
 
 An extraordinary sharp cold spring, not yet a leafe on y e trees, frost 
 and snow lying : whilst the whole nation was in the greatest ferment. 
 
533 
 
 11 April. I tooke my leave of Dr. Lloyd (now Bishop of St. 
 Asaph) at his house in Leicester Fields, now going to reside in his 
 diocese. 
 
 12. I din'd at Mr. Brisbane's, Secretary to y e Admiralty, a learned 
 and industrious person, whither came Dr. Burnet to thank me for 
 some papers I had contributed towards his excellent History of the 
 Reformation. 
 
 26. I din'd at Don Pietro Ronquillo's, the Spanish Ambassador, at 
 Wild House*, who us'd me with extraordinary civility. The dinner was 
 plentiful, halfe after the Spanish, halfe after the English way. After 
 dinner he led me into his bed-chamber, where we fell into a long dis- 
 course concerning religion. Tho' he was a learned man in politics, 
 and an advocate, he was very ignorant in religion, and unable to 
 defend any point of controversy ; he was however far from being fierce. 
 At parting he earnestly wish'd me to apply humbly to the Blessed Vir- 
 gin to direct me, assuring me that he had known divers who had ben 
 averse from the Roman Catholic Religion, wonderfully enlighten'd and 
 convinc'd by her intercession. He importun'd me to come and visite 
 him often. 
 
 29 April. But one showre of rain all this month. 
 
 5 May. Came to dine with me S r W m Fermor of Northampton- 
 shire, and S r Christ r Wren, his Majesty's Architect and Surveyor, now 
 building the Cathedral of St. Paul, and the Columne in memorie of the 
 Citty's conflagration, and was in hand with the building of 50 Parish 
 Churches. A wonderful genius had this incomparable person. 
 
 16 May. Came my Lady Sunderland to desire that I would propose 
 a match to S r Stephen Fox for her sonn, Lord Spencer, to marry Mrs. 
 Jane, Sir Stephen's daughter. I excus'd myself all I was able, for the 
 truth is, I was afraid he would prove an extravagant man : for though a 
 youth of extraordinary parts, and had an excellent education to render 
 him a worthy man, yet his early inclinations to extravagance made me 
 apprehensive that I should not serve Sir Stephen by proposing it, like a 
 friend ; this being now his only daughter, well bred, and likely to 
 
 * Near Druiy Lane. 
 
534 
 
 [l68l. 
 
 receive a large share of her father's opulence. Lord Sunderland was 
 much sunke in his estate by gaming and other prodigalities, and was 
 now no longer Secretary of State, having fallen into displeasure of 
 the King for siding with the Commons about the Succession ; but 
 which I am assur'd he did not do out of his owne inclination, or for y e 
 preservation of the Protestant religion, but by mistaking y e ability of 
 the party to carry it. However, so earnest and importunate was the 
 Countesse, that I did mention it to S r Stephen, who said that it was 
 too great an honour, that his daughter was very young as well as my 
 Lord, and he was resolved never to marry her without the parties 
 mutual liking, with other objections which I neither would nor could 
 contradict. He desir'd me to expresse to the Countesse the greate 
 sense he had of y e honour don him, that his daughter and her sonn 
 were too young, that he would do nothing without her liking, which 
 he did not think her capable of expressing judiciously till she was 16 
 or 17 yeares of age, of which she now wanted 4 yeares, and that I 
 would put it off as civilly as I could. 
 
 20 May. Our new curate preach'd, a pretty hopefull young man, 
 yet somewhat raw, newly come from colledge, full of Latine sentences, 
 which in time will weare off. He read prayers very well. 
 
 25. There came to visite me Sir William Walter and Sir John 
 Elowes ; and the next day the Earle of Kildare, a young gent, related to 
 my wife, and other company. There had scarce fallen any raine since 
 Christmas. 
 
 2 June. I went to Hampton Court, when the Surrey gentlemen 
 presented their addresses to his Mat y , whose hand I kiss'd, introduc'd 
 by the Duke of Albemarle. 
 
 12. It still continu'd so great a drought as had never ben known 
 in England, and it was said to be universal. 
 
 14 Aug. No sermon this afternoone, \v ch I think did not happen 
 twice in this parish these 30 years ; so gracious has God ben to it, and 
 indeede to the whole nation : God grant that we abuse not this greate 
 priviledge, either by our wantonnesse, schisme, or unfaithfulnesse, 
 under such meanes as he has not favoured any other nation under 
 heaven besides. 
 
1681.] 
 
 535 
 
 23. I went to Wotton, and on the following day was invited to 
 Mr. Denzil Onslow's at his seate at Purford, where was much com- 
 pany and such an extraordinary feast as I had hardly seene at any 
 country gentleman's table. What made it more remarkable was, that 
 there was not any thing save what his estate about it did afford : as 
 venison, rabbits, hares, pheasants, partridges, pigeons, quails, poultrie, 
 all sortes of fowle in season from his owne decoy neere his house, an< 
 all sorts of fresh fish. After dinner we went to see sport at the decoy 
 where I never saw so many herons. 
 
 The seate stands on a flat, the ground pasture, rarely water'd, and 
 exceedingly improv'd since Mr. Onslow bought it of S" Rob 1 Parkhurst, 
 who spent a faire estate. The house is timber, but commodious, and 
 with one ample dining-roome, the hall adorn'd with paintings of fowle 
 and huntings, &c. the work of Mr. Barlow, who is excellent in this 
 kind from the life *. 
 
 30. From Wotton I went to see Mr. Husseyf (at Sutton in Shere), 
 who has a very pretty seate well water'd, neere my brother's. He is 
 the neatest husband for curious ordering his domestic and field accom- 
 modations, and what pertains to husbandry, that I have ever seene, as 
 to his granaries, tacklings, tooles, and utensills, ploughs, carts, stables, 
 wood-piles, wood-house, even to hen-roosts and hog-troughs. Me- 
 thought I saw old Cato or Varro in him ; all substantial, all in exact 
 order. The sole inconvenience he lies under, is the greate quantity of 
 sand which the streame brings along with it, and fills his canals and 
 receptacles for fish too soone. The rest of my time of stay at Wotton 
 was spent in walking about the grounds and goodly woods, where I 
 have in my youth so often entertain'd my solitude : and so on the 2d of 
 Sept. I once more returned to my home. 
 
 6 Sept. Died my pretty grand-child, and was interr'd on the 8th 
 [at Deptford.] 
 
 14. Din'd with Sir Stephen Fox, who propos'd to me y e purchasing 
 of Cheisey College, which his Ma tv had some time since given to our 
 
 * This house has been pulled down many years. The estate is the property of the Earl of 
 Onslow. 1816. P. 431. 
 
536 
 
 [1681. 
 
 Society, and would now purchase it againe to build an Hospital or 
 Infirmary for Souldiers there, in which he desired my assistance as one 
 of the Council of the R. Society. 
 
 15. I had another opportunity of visiting his Ma tJ ' s private Library 
 at White-hall. 
 
 To Sir Sam. Moreland's, to see his house and mechanics*. 
 
 17. I went with Mons r Faubert about taking y e Countesse of Bris- 
 tol's house for an academie, he being lately come from Paris for his 
 religion, and resolving to settle here f . 
 23. I went to see S r Tho. Bond's fine house and garden at Peckham. 
 
 2 Oct. I went to Camerwell, where that good man Dr. Par (late 
 chaplain to Abp. Usher) preach'd on 16 Acts, 30. 
 
 11. I went to Fulham to visit the Bishop of London, in whose 
 garden I first saw the Sedum arborescens in flower, which was exceed- 
 ingly beautifull. 
 
 5 Nov. Dr. Hooper preach'd on 12 Mark, 16, If, before the King, 
 of the usurpation of the Church of Rome. This is one of y e first rank 
 of pulpit men in the nation. 
 
 15. I din'd with y e Earle of Essex, who after dinner in his study, 
 where we were alone, related to me how much he had ben scandaliz'd 
 and injur'd in the report of his being privy to the marriage of his Lady's 
 niece, y e rich young widow of the late Lord Ogle, sole daughter of y e 
 E. of Northumberland ; shewing me a letter of Mr. Thynn's excusing 
 himself for not communicating his marriage to his Lordship. He 
 acquainted me also with the whole story of that unfortunate lady being 
 betray'd by her grandmother the Countesse of Northumberland, and 
 Col. Bret, for money; and that tho', upon the importunity of the 
 Duke of Monmouth, he had deliver'd to the grandmother a particular 
 
 * In Lambeth, at what is now Vauxhall, where Sir Sam. Moreland had fitted up a house, and 
 built a large room, which he furnished in a sumptuous manner, and constructed in his garden 
 some fountains. He was much in favour with the King for serviceiThe had rendered to him whilst 
 abroad, and this is probably the place which it is said the King and his Ladies used to cross the 
 water to go to. Hist. Surrey, HI. 489, 490, 491.— See further particulars of him in p. 407, and 
 vol. II. p. 49 ; and some of his inventions noticed in the present volume, pp. 444, 491, 55 c 2. 
 
 f He had a riding house between Swallow-street and King-street 3 the passage by it between 
 those streets, is still (or lately was) called by his name (1816.) 
 
1681.] 
 
 537 
 
 of the jointure which Mr. Thynn pretended he would settle on the 
 lady, yet he totally diseourag'd y e proceeding, as by no means a com- 
 petent match for one that both by birth and fortune might have pre- 
 tended to the greatest prince in Christendom ; that he also propos'd 
 the Earle of Kingston, or the Lord Cranburn, but was by no means 
 for Mr. Thynn. 
 
 19. I din'd with my worthy friend Mr. Erskin, Ma r of the Charter- 
 house, uncle to the Dutchesse of Monmouth ; a wise and learned gen- 
 tleman, fitter to have ben a privy councillor and minister of state than 
 to have been laied aside. 
 
 24. I was at y e audience of the Russia Ambassador before both their 
 Majesties in the Banquetting-house. The presents were carried before 
 him, held up by his followers in two ranks before the King's State, and 
 consisted of tapissry (one suite of which was doubtless brought from 
 France as being of that fabrick, the Ambass 1- having pass'd thro' that 
 Kingdom as he came out of Spain), a large Persian carpet, furs of sable 
 and ermine, &c. but nothing was so splendid and exotic as the Am- 
 bassador who came soone after the King's Restauration*. This present 
 Ambass 1- was exceedingly offended that his coach was not permitted to 
 come into the Court, till being told that no King's Ambassador did, he 
 was pacified, yet requiring an attestation of it under the hand of Sir 
 Cha. Cotterell, the Master of the Ceremonies ; being, it seems, afraid 
 he should offend his Master if he omitted the least punctilio. 'Twas 
 reported he condemned his sonn to loose his head for shaving off his 
 beard, and putting himselfe in y c French mode at Paris, and that he 
 would have executed it had not the French King interceded — but qu. 
 of this. 
 
 30 Nov. S r Christ 1 " Wren chosen President [of y e Royal Society], 
 Mr. Austine, Secretary, with Dr. Plot, the ingenious author of the 
 History of Oxfordshire. There was a most illustrious appearance. 
 
 1682. 11 Jan. I saw y e audience of the Morocco Ambassador f, 
 his retinue not numerous. He was receiv'd in the Banquetting-house, 
 both their Majesties being present. He came up to the Throne with* 
 
 * See p. 355. 
 
 t Named Hamet. There are different prints of him ; one of which is a large and fine one by 
 Robert. 
 
 VOL. I. 3 z 
 
538 
 
 [1682. 
 
 out making any sort of reverence, not bowing his head or body. He 
 spake by a renegado Englishman, for whose safe return there was a 
 promise. They were all clad in the Moorish habite, cassocks of co- 
 lour'd cloth, or silk, with buttons and loopes, over this an alhaga, or 
 white woollen mantle, so large as to wrap both head and body, a shash 
 or small turban, naked legg'd and arm'd, but with leather socks like 
 the Turks, rich scymeter, and large calico sleeved shirts. The Am- 
 bass r had a string of pearls oddly woven in his turban. I fancy the 
 old Roman habite was little different as to the mantle and naked limbs. 
 The Ambass r was an handsome person, well featur'd, of a wise looke, 
 subtil!, and extreamely civile. Their presents were lions and estridges 
 (ostriches), &c. ; their errand about a peace at Tangier. But the con- 
 course and tumult of the people was intolerable, so as the officers could 
 keepe no order, which these strangers were astonish'd at at first, there 
 being nothing so regular, exact, and perform'd with such silence, as 
 is on all these public occasions of their country, and indeede over all 
 the Turkish dominions. 
 
 14. Din'd at the Bp. of Rochester's, at the Abby, it being his 
 marriage day, after twenty-four yeares. He related to me how he had 
 hen treated by S r William Temple, foreseeing that he might be a dele- 
 gate in the concerne of my Lady Ogle, now likely to come in contro- 
 versy upon her marriage with Mr. Thynn ; also how earnestly the late 
 E. of Danby, Lord Treasurer, sought his friendship, and what plaine 
 and sincere advice he gave him from time to time about his miscar- 
 riages and partialities ; particularly his outing S r John Duncomb from 
 being Chancellor of the Exchequer, and S r Ste. Fox, above all, from 
 Paymaster of y e Armie. The Treasurer's excuse and reason was, that 
 Fox's credit was so over-greate with the bankers and monied men, that 
 he could procure none but by his meanes ; " for that reason," replied 
 y e Bishop, " I would have made him my friend, Sir Stephen being a 
 person both honest and of credit." He told himJikewise of his state- 
 Hness and difficultv of accesse, and severall other miscarriages, and 
 which indeede made him hated. 
 
 24. To the Royall Society, where at the Council we pass'd a new 
 law for the more accurate consideration of candidates, as whether they 
 
16S2.] 
 
 539 
 
 would really be useful ; also concerning the honorary members, that 
 none should be admitted but by diploma. 
 
 This evening I was at the entertainement of the Morocco Ambas- 
 sador at the Dutchesse of Portsmouth's glorious apartments at White- 
 hall, where was a greate banquet of sweetemeates and musiq, but at 
 which both the Ambass 1 " and his retinue behav'd themselves with ex- 
 traordinary moderation and modesty, tl)o' plac'd about a long table, a 
 lady betweene two moores, and amongst these were the King's natural 
 children, viz. Lady Lichfield and Sussex, the Dutchess of Portsmouth, 
 Nelly, &c. concubines, and cattell of that sort, as splendid as Jewells 
 and excesse of bravery could make them. The Moores neither ad- 
 miring nor seeming to regard any thing, furniture or the like, with 
 any earnestnesse, and but decently tasting of the banquet. They 
 dranke a little milk and water, but not a drop of wine ; they also 
 dranke of a sorbet and jacolatt ; did not looke about, or stare on y e 
 ladies, or expresse the least surprize, but with a courtly negligence jju 
 pace, countenance, and whole behaviour, answering only to such ques- 
 tions as were ask'd with a greate deale of wit and gallantrie, and so 
 gravely tooke leave with this compliment, That God would blesse the 
 Dutchess of Portsmouth and y e Prince her sonn, meaning the little 
 Duke of Richmond. The King came in at the latter end, just as the 
 Ambass 1 " was going away. In this manner was this slave (for he was 
 no more at home) entertain'd by most of the nobility in towne, and 
 went often to Hide Park on horseback, where he and his retinue 
 shew'd their extraordinary activity in horsemanship, and flinging and 
 catching their launces at full speede ; they rid very short, and could 
 stand upright at full speede, managing their spears with incredible 
 agility. He went sometimes to y e theaters, where upon any foolish or 
 fantastical action, he could not forbear laughing, but he endeavour'd 
 to hide it with extraordinary modesty and gravity. In a word, the 
 Russian Ambassador, still at Court, behav'd himselfe like a clowne, 
 compar'd to this civil heathen. 
 
 27. This evening Sir Ste. Fox acquainted me againe with his 
 Ma t s resolution of proceeding in the erection of a Royal Hospital for 
 emerited souldiers on that spot of ground which the Royal Society had 
 
540 [1682. 
 
 sold to his Ma tv for 1300/. and that he would settle 5000Z. per ann. on 
 it, and build to y e value of 20,000Z. for y e reliefe and reception of 4 
 companies, viz. 400 men, to be as in a colledge or monastrie. I was 
 therefore desir'd by Sir Stephen (who had not onely the whole ma- 
 naging of this, but was, as I perceiv'd, himselfe to be a grand bene- 
 factor, as well it became him who had gotten so vast an estate by the 
 souldiers) to assist him, and consult what method to cast it in, as to 
 the government. So in his study we arranged the governor, chaplaine, 
 steward, housekeeper, chirurgeon, cook, butler, gardener, porter, and 
 other officers, with their several salaries and entertainments. I would 
 needes have a Library, and mention'd several bookes, since some soul- 
 diers might possibly be studious when they were at leisure to recollect. 
 Thus we made the first calculations, and set downe our thoughts to be 
 consider'd and digested better, to shew his Ma ty and the Archbishop. 
 He also engag'd me to consider of what laws and orders were fit for y e 
 government, which was to be in every respect as strict as in any reli- 
 gious convent. 
 
 After supper came in the famous treble Mr. Abel, newly return'd 
 from Italy ; I never heard a more excellent voice ; one would have 
 sworn it had ben a woman's, it was so high, and so well and skillfully 
 manag'd, being accompanied by Signor Francesco on the harpsichord. 
 
 28. Mr. Pepys, late Secretary to the Admiralty, shew'd me a 
 large folio containing the whole mechanic part and art of building royal 
 ships and men of warr, made by S r Anth. Deane, being so accurate a 
 piece from the very keele to y e lead block, rigging, gunns, victualling, 
 manning, and even to every individual pin and naile, in a method so 
 astonishing and curious, with the draught, both geometrical and in 
 perspective, and severall sections, that I do not think the world can 
 shew the like. I esteeme this booke as an extraordinary jewell. 
 
 7 Feb. My daughter Mary began to learn musick of Sign r Bartho- 
 lomeo, and dauncing of Mons r Isaac, reputed thejjest masters. 
 
 Having had several violent fits of an ague, recourse was had to 
 bathing my legs in milk up to y e knees, made as hot as I could endure 
 it ; and sitting so in it in a deepe churn or vessell cover'd with blankets, 
 and drinking carduus posset, then going to bed and sweating, I not 
 
 « 
 
1682.] 
 
 541 
 
 onely miss'd that expected fit, but had no more, only continued weake, 
 that I could not go to church 'till Ash Wednesday, which I had not 
 missed, I think, so long in twenty yeares, so gracious had God beene 
 to me. 
 
 After this warning and admonition I now began to looke over and 
 methodize all my writings, accompts, letters, papers ; inventoried the 
 goods, and other articles of the house, and put things into the best 
 order I could, and made my will ; that now growing in yeares, I might 
 have none of these secular things and concerns to distract me when it 
 should please Almighty God to call me from this transitory life. With 
 this I prepar'd some special meditations and devotions for the time of 
 sicknesse. The Lord Jesus grant them to be salutary for my poore 
 soul in that day, that I may obtain mercy and acceptance ! 
 
 1 March. My second grandchild was born, and christen'd the next 
 day by our Viccar at Says Court, by y e name of John*. I beseeche 
 God to bless him. 
 
 2. Ash Wednesday. I went to church ; our Viccar preached on 
 Proverbs, shewing what care and vigilance was required for the keep- 
 ing of the heart upright. The holy Communion followed, on which 1 
 gave God thanks for his gracious dealing w h me in my late sicknesse, 
 and affording me this blessed opportunity of praising him in y e Con- 
 gregation, and receiving the cup of salvation with new and serious 
 resolutions. 
 
 Came to see and congratulate my recovery, S r John Lowther, Mr. 
 Herbert, Mr. Pepys, Sir Anth : Deane, and Mr. Hill. 
 
 10. This day was executed Coll. Vrats, and some of his accomplices, 
 for the execrable murder of Mr. Thynnf , set on by the principal Kon- 
 nigsmark; he went to execution like an undaunted hero, as one that 
 had done a friendly office for that base coward C. Koningsmark, who 
 had hopes to marry his widow the rich Lady Ogle, and was acquitted 
 by a corrupt jury, and so got away. Vrats told a friend of mine who 
 
 * Who became his successor, and was created a baronet in 1713. 
 
 t He lies buried in Westminster Abbey ; the manner of his death being represented on his 
 monument. 
 
542 
 
 accompanied him to y e gallows, and gave him some advice, that he 
 did not value dying of a rush, and hop'd and believ'd God would deale 
 with him like a gentleman. Never man went so unconcern'd for his 
 sad fate. 
 
 24. I went to see the corpse of that obstinate creature Coll. Vrats, 
 y e King permitting that his body should be transported to his owne 
 country, he being of a good family, and one of the first embalmed by 
 a particular art invented by one W'" Russell, a coffin maker, which 
 preserv'd the body without disbowelling, or to appearance using any 
 bituminous matter. The flesh was florid, soft, and full, as if the per- 
 son were onely sleeping. He had now ben dead neere 15 daies, and 
 lay expos'd in a very rich coffin Had with lead, too magnificent for so 
 daring and horrid a murderer. 
 
 At y e meeting of R. Society were exhibited some pieces of amber 
 sent by y e Duke of Brandenburg, in one of w cb was a spider, in another 
 a gnat, both very intire. There was a discourse of y e tingeing of glass, 
 especially with red, and y e difficulty of finding any red colour effectual 
 to penetrate glass, among y e glass-painters ; that y e most diaphonous, 
 as blue, yellow, &e. did not enter into the substance of what was 
 ordinarily painted, more than very shallow, unless incorporated in the 
 mettal itselfe, other reds and whites not at all beyond y e superficies. 
 
 5 April. To y e R. Society, where at a Council was regulated what 
 collections should be published monthly, as formerly the transactions, 
 which had of late ben discontinu'd, but were now much call'd for by 
 the curious abroad and at home. 
 
 12. I went this afternoone with severall of y L ' Royal Society to a 
 supper w ch was all dress'd, both fish and flesh, in Mo r Papin's Digestors, 
 by which the hardest bones of beefe itselfe, and mutton, were made as 
 soft as cheese, without water or other liquor, and with lesse than 8 
 ounces of coales, producing an incredible quantity of gravy ; and for 
 close of all a jelly made of y e bones of beef, the best for clearness and 
 good relish, and the most delicious that I had ever seene or tasted. 
 We eat pike and other fish bones, and all without impediment ; but 
 nothing exceeded the pigeons, which tasted just as if bak'd in a pie, all 
 these being stew'd in their own juice, without any addition of water 
 
543 
 
 save what swam about the Digester, as in balneo ; the natural juice of 
 all these provisions acting on the grosser substances, reduc'd the 
 hardest bones to tendernesse ; but it is best descanted with more par- 
 ticulars for extracting tinctures, preserving and stewing fruite, and 
 saving fuel, in Dr. Papin's booke, publish'd and dedicated to our 
 Society, of which he is a member. He is since gone to Venice with 
 the late Resident here (and also a member of our Society), who carried 
 this excellent mechanic, philosopher, and physician, to set up a philo- 
 sophical meeting in that citty. This philosophical supper caus'd much 
 mirth amongst us, and exceedingly pleas'd all y e company. I sent a 
 glass of y e jelley to my wife, to the reproch of all that the ladies ever 
 made of the best hartshorn. 
 
 April. The season was unusually wet, with rain and thunder. 
 
 25 May. I was desir'd by Sir Ste. Fox and S r Christ 1- Wren to 
 accompany them to Lambeth, with the plot and designe of the College 
 to be built at Chelsey, to have the Abp.'s approbation. It was a 
 quadrangle of 200 foote square after y e dimensions of the larger 
 quadrangle at Christ Church, Oxford, for the accomodation of 440 
 persons, with governor and officers. This was agreed on. 
 
 The Duke and Dutchesse of York were just now come to London 
 after his escape and shipwreck as be went by sea for Scotland. 
 
 28. At the Rolls Chapell preached the famous Dr. Burnet on 2 
 Peter i. 10. describing excellently well what was meant by Election ; 
 viz. not the effect of any irreversable decree, but so call'd because they 
 embraced the Gospel readily, by which they became elect or precious 
 to God. It would be very needlesse to make our calling and election 
 sure, were they irreversable and what the rigid Presbyterians pretend. 
 In the afternoone to St. Lawrence's church, a new and cheerful pile. 
 
 29. I gave notice to y e Bp. of Rochester of what Maimburg had 
 publish'd about the motives of the late Dutchesse of York's perversion, 
 in his Historie of Calvinism ; and did myselfe write to the Bp. of 
 Winchester* about it, who being concern'd in it, I urged him to set 
 forth his vindication. 
 
 * Dr. Morley 
 
544 [1682. 
 
 31. The Morocco Ambassador being admitted an honorary member 
 of the R. Society, and subscribing his name and titles in Arabic, I was 
 deputed by the Council to go and compliment him. 
 
 19 June. The Bantame*, or East India Ambass rs (at this time we 
 had in London y e Russian, Moroccan, and Indian Ambassadors,) being 
 invited to dine at Lord Geo. Berkeley's (now Earl), I went to the 
 entertainment to contemplate the exotic guests. They were both very 
 hard-favour'd and much resembling in countenance some sort of mon- 
 keys. We eate at two tables, the Ambassadors and interpreter by 
 themselves. Their garments were rich Indian silks, flower' d with gold, 
 viz. a close wastcoate to their knees, drawers, naked legs, and on their 
 heads capps made like fruit-baskets. They wore poison'd daggers at 
 their bosoms, the hafts carv'd with some ugly serpents or devils heads, 
 exceeding keene, and of Damasco metal. They wore no sword. The 
 second Ambass r (sent it seemes to succeed in case the first should die 
 by y e way in so tedious a journey), having ben at Mecca, wore a Turkish 
 or Arab shash, a little part of y e linnen hanging downe behinde his 
 neck, with some other difference of habite, and was halfe a Negro, 
 bare legg'd and naked feete, and deem'd a very holy man. They sate 
 cross-legg'd like Turks, and sometimes in the posture of apes and 
 monkeys ; their nailes and teeth black as jet, and shining, which being 
 the effect, as to their teeth, of perpetually chewing betel to preserve 
 them from the tooth-ache, much raging in their country, is esteem'd 
 beautifull. The first Ambass 1- was of an olive hue, a flat face, narrow 
 eyes, squat nose, and Moorish lips, no haire appear'd ; they wore 
 several rings of silver, gold, and copper on their fingers, which was a 
 token of knighthood or nobility. They were of Java Major, whose 
 Princes have ben turn'd Mahometans not above 50 yeares since, the 
 inhabitants are still pagans and idolators. They seem'd of a dull and 
 heavy constitution, not wondering at any thing they saw, but exceed- 
 ingly astonished how our Law gave us propriety in our estates, and so 
 
 * The name of one was Pungearon Nia Para, of the other Kaia Nebbe, or KeayNabee. There 
 are different prints of both, representing them exactly as here described. There were others in 
 the embassy, but probably of inferior degree. 
 
1682.] 545 
 
 thinking we were all Kings, for they could not he made to comprehend 
 how subjects could possess any thing but at the pleasure of their Prince, 
 they being all slaves ; they were pleas'd with the notion, and admir'd 
 our happinesse. They were very sober, and I believe subtle in their 
 way. Their meate was cook'd, carried up, and they attended by several 
 fat slaves, who had no covering save drawers, which appear'd very 
 uncouth and loathsome. They eate their pilaw and other spoone-meate 
 without spoones, taking up their pottage in the hollow of their fingers, 
 and very dextrously flung it into their mouthes without spilling a drop. 
 
 17 July. Came to dine with me the Duke of Grafton and the young 
 Earle of Ossorie, son to my most deare deceas'd friend. 
 
 30. Went to visit our good neighbour Mr. Bohun *, whose whole 
 house is a cabinet of all elegancies, especially Indian ; in the hall are 
 contrivances of Japan skreens instead of wainscot; and there is an 
 excellent pendule clock inclos'd in the curious flower-work of Mr. 
 Gibbons in the middle of the vestibule. The landskips of the skreens 
 represent the manner of living, and country of the Chinese. But 
 above all, his lady's cabinet is adorn 'd on the fret, cieling, and chimney- 
 piece, with Mr. Gibbons's best carving. There are also some of 
 Streeter's best paintings, and many rich curiosities of gold and silver as 
 growing in the mines. The gardens are exactly kept, and the whole 
 place very agreeable and well water'd. The owners are good neigh- 
 bours, and Mr. Bohun has also built and endow'd an hospital for eight 
 poor people, with a pretty chapell, and every necessarie accommodation. 
 
 1 Aug. To the Bp. of London at Fulham, to review y e additions 
 w ch Mr. Marshall had made to his curious booke of flowers in miniature, 
 and collection of insects. 
 
 4. With S r Stephen Fox, to survey the foundations of the Royal 
 Hospital begun at Chelsey. 
 
 9. The Council of the R. Society had it recommended to them to 
 be trustees and visitors, or supervisors, of the Academy which Mons r 
 Faubert did hope to procure to be built by subscription of worthy gen- 
 tlemen and noblemen, for the education of youth, and to lessen the vast 
 
 * This was at Lea. See Hasted's History of Kent, I. 67. 
 VOL. I. 4 A 
 
546 
 
 [1682. 
 
 expence the Nation is at yearly by sending children into France to be 
 taught military exercises. We thought good to give him all the encou- 
 ragement our recommendation could procure. 
 
 15. Came to visite me Dr. Rogers, an acquaintance of mine long 
 since at Padoa. He was then Consul of the English Nation, and 
 student in that Universitie, where he proceeded Dr. in Physic ; pre- 
 senting me now with the Latine oration he lately made upon the 
 famous Dr. Harvey's anniversarie in the Coll. of Physicians at London. 
 
 20. This night I saw another comet, neere Cancer, very bright, but 
 the stream not so long as the forme. 
 
 29. Supp'd at Lord Clarendon's with Lord Hyde his brother, now 
 the great favorite, who invited himselfe to dine at my house the Tues- 
 day following. 
 
 30 Oct. Being my birth-day, and I now entering my greate climac- 
 terical of 63, after serious recollections of the yeares past, giving 
 Almighty God thanks for all his mercifull preservations and forbearance, 
 begging pardon for my sinns and unworthinesse, and his blessing and 
 mercy on me the yeare entering, I went with my Lady Fox to survey 
 her building, and give some directions for y e garden at Chiswick ; the 
 architect is Mr. May ; somewhat heavy and thick, and not so well 
 understood ; the garden much too narrow, the place without water, 
 neere an highway, and neere another greate house of my Lord Bur- 
 lington, little land about it, so that I wonder at the expence; but 
 women will have their will, 
 
 25. I was invited to dine with Mons. Lionberg, the Swedish Resi- 
 dent, who made a magnificent entertainment, it being the birth day of 
 his King. There dined the Duke of Albemarle, D. of Hamilton, Earle 
 of Bathe, E. of Aylesbury, Lord Arran, Lord Castlehaven, the sonn of 
 him who was executed 50 yeares before, and several greate persons. 
 I was exceeding afraide of drinking (it being a Dutch feast), but the 
 Duke of Albemarle being that night to waite on his Majestie, excesse 
 was prohibited ; and to prevent all, I stole away and left the company 
 as soone as we rose from table. 
 
 28. I went to the Council of the Royal Society for y e auditing the 
 last yeares accompt, where I was surpriz'd with a fainting fit that for 
 
1683-] 54/ 
 
 a time tooke away my sight, but God being mercifull to me, I recovered 
 it after a short repose. 
 
 30 Nov. I was exceedingly indanger'd and importun'd to stand y e 
 election [for President of y e R. S.J having so many voices, but by favor 
 of my friends, and regard of my remote dwelling, and now frequent 
 infirmities, I desir'd their suffrages might be transferr'd to Sir John 
 Hoskins, one of the Masters of Chancery ; a most learned virtuoso as 
 well as lawyer, who accordingly was elected. 
 
 7 Dec. Went to congratulate Lord Hyde (y e great favorite), newly 
 made Earle of Rochester *, and lately marrying his eldest daughter to 
 the Earle of Ossorie. 
 
 18. I sold my East India adventure of 250/. principal for 750/. to 
 the Royal Society, after I had been in that company 25 years, being 
 extraordinary advantageous, by the blessing of God. 
 
 23 Jan. 1683. S r Francis North, sonn to the Lord North, and Lord 
 Cheife Justice, being made Lord Keeper on the death of the Earle of 
 Nottingham, the Lord Chancellor, I went to congratulate him. He is 
 a most knowing, learned, and ingenious man, and besides an excellent 
 person, of an ingenuous and sweete disposition, very skillfull in music, 
 painting, the new philosophy, and politer studies. 
 
 29. Supp'd at S r Jos. Williamson's, where was a select companie 
 of our Society, S r W m Petty, Dr. Gale (that learned Schole-master of 
 St. Paul's), Dr. Whistler, Mr. Hill, &c. The conversation was phi- 
 losophicall and cherefull, on divers considerable questions proposed ; as 
 of the hereditary succession of the Roman Emperors ; the Pica men- 
 tioned in the Preface to our Common Prayer, w ch signifies onely the 
 Greeke Kalendarium. These were mixed with lighter subjects. 
 
 2 Feb. I made my court at St. James's, when I saw the Sea Charts 
 of Capt. Collins, which that industrious man now brought to shew the 
 Duke, having taken all the coastings from the mouth of the Thames, 
 as far as Wales, and exactly measuring every creeke, island, rock, 
 soundings, harbors, sands, and tides, intending next Spring to pro- 
 ceed till he had finish'd the whole iland, and that measured by chains 
 
 * Laurence, second son of the Chancellor. 
 
548 
 
 and other instruments. A most exact and usefull undertaking. He 
 affirm'd, that of all the mapps put out since, there are none extant so 
 true as those of Jo. Norden, who gave us the first in Qu. Elizabeth's 
 time ; all since him are erroneous. 
 
 12. This morning I receiv'd the newes of the death of mv father- 
 in-law, Sir Richard Browne Knt. and Bart, who died at my house at 
 Says Court this day at 10 in the morning, after he had labour'd under 
 the gowt and dropsie for neere 6 moneths, in the /8th yeare of his age. 
 The funerall was solemniz'd on the 19th at Deptford, with as much 
 decency as the dignity of the person, and our relation to him, requir'd. 
 There being invited the Bp. of Rochester, severall noblemen, knights, 
 and all the fraternity of the Trinity Companie, of which he had ben 
 Master, and others of the country. The Vicar preach'd a short but 
 proper discourse on 39 Psalm. 10, on the frailty of our mortal condi- 
 tion, concluding with an ample and well-deserv'd eulogie on the defunct, 
 relating to his honourable birth and ancestors, education, learning in 
 Greeke and Latine, modern languages, travels, publiq employments, 
 signal loyalty, character abroad, and particularly the honor of support- 
 ing the Church of England in its public worship during its persecution 
 by the late Rebells usurpation and regicide, by the suffrages of divers 
 Bishops, Doctors of the Church, and others, who found such an asylum 
 in his house and family at Paris, that in their disputes with the Papists 
 (then triumphing over it as utterly lost) they us'd to argue for its visi- 
 bility and existence from Sir R. Browne's chapell and assembly there. 
 Then he spake of his greate and loyal sufferings during 13 yeares exile 
 with his present Ma f,e , his returne with him in the signall yeare 1660; 
 his hon ble employment at home, his timely recesse to recollect himselfe, 
 his greate age, infirmities, and death. He gave to the Trinity Corpo- 
 ration that land in Deptford on which are built those alms- houses for 
 24 widows of emerited seamen. He was borne the famous yeare of the 
 Gunpowder Treason, in 1605, and being the last "finale] of his family, 
 left my wife, his onely daughter, heire. His grandfather Sir Rich d 
 Browne was the greate instrument under the greate Earl of Leicester 
 (favorite to Queene Eliz.) in his government of the Netherlands. He 
 was !Yi aster of the Household to King James, and Cofferer; I think 
 
549 
 
 was the first who regulated the compositions thro 5 England for the 
 King's household provisions, progresses *, &c. which was so high a 
 service, and so gratefull to the whole nation, that he had acknowledg- 
 ments and publiq thanks sent him from all the Counties; he died by 
 the rupture of a veine in a vehement speech he made about the compo- 
 sitions in a Parliament of King James. By his mother's side he was 
 a. Gunson, Treasurer of the Navy in y e reignes of Hen. 8, Qu. Mary, 
 and Qu. Eliz., and as by his large pedigree appeares, related to divers 
 of the English nobility. Thus ended this honorable person, after so 
 many changes and tossings to and fro, in the same house where he was 
 borne. " Lord teach us so to number our days that we may apply our 
 hearts to wisdom !" 
 
 By a special clause in his will he order'd that his body should be 
 buried in the Church-yard under the South East window of the Chancel, 
 adjoining to y e burying places of his ancestors, since they came out of 
 Essex to Says Court, he being much offended at the novel costome of 
 burying every one within the body of y e Church and Chancel, that 
 being a favour heretofore granted only to martyrs and greate persons; 
 this excesse of making Churches Charnel-houses being of ill and irre- 
 verend example, and prejudicial to the health of the living, besides the 
 continual disturbance of the pavement and seates, and severall other 
 indecencies. Dr. Hall, y° pious Bishop of Norwich^ would also be so 
 interr'd -j*, as may be read in his Testament. 
 
 16 March. I went to see S r Josiah Child's prodigious cost in plant- 
 ing walnut trees about his seate and making fish-ponds, many miles 
 in circuit, in Epping Forest, in a barren spot, as oftentimes these sud- 
 dainly monied men for the most part seate themselves. He, from a 
 merchant's apprentice, and management of the East India Company's 
 stock, being ariv'd to an estate ('tis said) of ^200,000 ; and lately 
 
 * The different Counties were to find provisions of different sorts, which were collected by of- 
 ficers called purveyors, whose extortions often excited the attention of Parliament. For a parti- 
 cular account of their practices, see Archaeologia, vol. III. p. 34&. 
 
 t As was afterwards, at Fulham, Dr. Coinpton, Bishop of London, who used to say " The 
 Church-yard for the dead, the Church for the living." 
 
 % Where that elegant mansion, Wanstead House, now stands. 
 
550 [1683. 
 
 married his daughter to the eldest sonn of the Duke of Beaufort, late 
 Marques of Worcester, with ^.50,000 portional present, and various 
 expectations. 
 
 I din'd at Mr. Houblon's *, a rich and gentile French merchant, who 
 was building a house in the Forest, neare Sir J. Child's, in a place 
 where y e late Earle of Norwich dwelt some time, and which came from 
 his lady the widow of Mr. Baker. It will be a pretty villa, about 5 
 miles from White-chapell. 
 
 18 March. I went to hear Dr. Horneck preach at the Savoy Church 
 on 2 Phil. 5. He was a German borne, a most pathetic preacher, a 
 person of a Saint-like life, and hath written an excellent treatise of 
 Consideration -f\ 
 
 20. Din'd at Dr. Whistler's at the Physicians Colledge, with Sir 
 Tho. Millington, both learned men ; Dr. W. the most facetious man 
 in nature, and now Censor of the College. I was here consulted where 
 they should build their library ; 'tis pity this Colledge is built so neere 
 New-gate Prison, and in so obscure an hole, a fault in placeing most of 
 our publiq buildings and Churches in the Citty, thro' the avarice of 
 some few men, and his Ma l > not over-ruling it when it was in his power 
 after the dreadfull conflagration. 
 
 21. Dr. Tenison preach'd at White-hall on 1 Cor. 6. 12 ; I esteeme 
 him to be one of the most profitable preachers in the Church of Eng- 
 land, being also of a most holy conversation, very learned and inge- 
 nious. The paines he takes and care of his parish will, I feare, weare 
 him out, which would be an inexpressible losse J. 
 
 24. I went to heare Dr. Charleton's lecture on the heart in the 
 Anatomie Theater at the Physicians Colledge. 
 
 30. I went to London in order to my passing the following weeke, 
 for y e celebration of Y e Easter now approaching, there being in the 
 
 * The family were eminent merchants in the time of Queen Elizabeth. Mo rant's Essex, II. 513. 
 
 t The full title is " The great Law of Consideration, or a Discourse wherein the nature, use- 
 fulness, and absolute necessity of Consideration, in order to a truly serious and religious life, are 
 laid open ;" it went through several editions. 
 
 X Dr. Thomas Tenison succeeded Tillolson in the metropolitical see of Canterbury, having been 
 before Vicar of St. Martin's in the Fields and Bishop of Lincoln. He lived to a great age. 
 
1683.] 
 
 551 
 
 Holy Weeke so many eminent preachers officiating at the Court and 
 other places. 
 
 6 April. Good Friday. There was in the afternoone, according to 
 costome, a Sermon before the King at White-hall ; Dr. Sprat preached 
 for the Bp. of Rochester. 
 
 17- I was at the launching of the last of the 30 ships order'd to be 
 new built by Act of Parliament, named the Neptune, a second rate, one 
 of the goodliest vessells of the whole navy, built by my kind neighbour 
 young Mr. Shish, his Ma'> s master shipwright of this dock. 
 
 1 May. I went to Blackheath to see the new faire, being the first, 
 procur'd by the Lord Dartmouth. This was the first day, pretended 
 for the sale of cattle, but I think in truth to enrich the new tavern at 
 the bowling greene, erected by Snape *, his Ma l >' 5 farrier, a man full 
 of projects. There appeared nothing but an innumerable assembly of 
 drinking people from London, pedlars, &c. and I suppose it too neere 
 London to be of any greate use to the country. 
 
 March was unusually hot and dry, and all April excessively wet. 
 
 I planted all the out limites of the garden and long walks with holly -f. 
 
 9. Din'd at S r Gabriel Sylvius's, and thence to visite y e Duke of 
 Norfolck, to ask whether he would part with any of his Cartoons and 
 other drawings of Raphael and y e greate masters ; he told me if he 
 might sell them altogether, he would, but that the late S r Peter Lely 
 (our famous painter) had gotten some of his best. The person who de- 
 sired me to treate for them was Vander Douse, grandson to that greate 
 scholar, contemporary and friend of Joseph Scaliger. 
 
 16*. Came to dinner and visite Sir Richard Anderson of Pendley and 
 his Lady, with whom I went to London. 
 
 June 8. On my return home from the R. Society, I found M r Wil- 
 braham, a young gent, of Cheshire. 
 
 11. The Lord Dartmouth was elected Master of the Trinity House; 
 sonn to Geo. Legg, late Master of the Ordnance, and one of the 
 
 * Mr. Granger mentions a print of this person by White, and says he was father of Dr. Snape 
 of Eton : one of this family has been serjeant-farrier to the King for three hundred years. 
 
 t 400 feet in length, 9 feet high, 5 in diameter, in my now ruined garden, thanks to the Czar 
 of Muscovy. Sylva, book II, chap. vi. 
 
552 
 
 groomes of the bedchamber ; a greate favorite of the Duke's, an active 
 and understanding gent n in sea affairs. 
 
 13. To our Society, where we received the Count de Zinzendorp, 
 Ambassador from the Duke of Saxonie, a very fine young man : we 
 shew'd him divers experiments on the magnet, on w ch subject the So- 
 ciety were upon. 
 
 16. I went to Windsor, dining by the way at Chesewick (Chis- 
 wick), at S r Stephen Fox's, where I found Sir Robert Howard (that 
 universal pretender), and Sign 1- Verrio, who brought his draught and 
 designs for the painting of y e staire-case of S r Stephen's new house. 
 
 That which was new at Windsor since I was last there, and was sur- 
 prizing to me, was that incomparable fresca painting in St. George's 
 Hall, representing the legend of St. George, and triumph of the Black 
 Prince, and his reception by Edw. III. ; the volto, or roofe, not totally 
 finish'd ; then the Resurrection in the Chapell, where the figure of the 
 Ascension is in my opinion comparable to any paintings of the most fa- 
 mous Roman masters ; the I^ast Supper also over the altar. I liked 
 the contrivance of the unseene organ behind the altar, nor lesse the stu- 
 pendous and beyond all description the incomparable carving of our 
 Gibbons, who is, without controversie, the greatest master both for in- 
 vention and rarenesse of worke, that the world ever had in any age; nor 
 doubt I at all that he will prove as greate a master in the statuary art. 
 
 Verrio's invention is admirable, his ord'nance full and flowing, antiq 
 and heroical ; his figures move ; and if the walls hold (which is y e onely 
 doubt by reason of the salts which in time and in this moist climate pre- 
 judice) the work will preserve his name to ages. 
 
 There was now the terrace brought almost round the old Castle ; the 
 grass made cleane, even, and curiously turf d ; the avenues to the new 
 park, and other walkes, planted with elmes and limes, and a pretty 
 canal, and receptacle for fowle ; nor lesse observable and famous is the 
 throwing so huge a quantity of excellent water -to the enormous height 
 of the Castle, for the use of the whole house, by an extraordinary in- 
 vention of S r Samuel Morland *. 
 
 * See of him p. 536, &c. 
 
553 
 
 17 June. I din'd at y e Earle of Sunderland's with the Earles of 
 Bath, Castlehaven, L ds Vis 1 *. Falconberg, Faulkland, Bp. of London, 
 the Grand Master of Malta, brother to the Duke de Vendosme, (a 
 young wild spark,) and Mr. Dryden the Poet. After evening prayer 
 I walk'd in the park with my Lord Clarendon, where we fell into dis- 
 course of the Bp. of Salisbury (Dr. Seth Ward), his subtil ty, &c. Dr. 
 Durell, late Deane of Windsor, being dead, Dr. Turner, one of the 
 Duke's Chaplains, was made Deane. 
 
 I visited my Lady Arlington, Groome of the Stole to her Ma' v , who 
 being hardly set down to supper, word was brought her that the 
 Queene was going into the park to walke, it being now neere eleven at 
 night ; the alarm caus'd the Countesse to rise in all haste, and leave her 
 supper to us. By this one may take an estimate of the extream slavery 
 and subjection that courtiers live in, who have not time to eate and 
 drinke at their pleasure. It put me in mind of Horace's Mouse, and 
 to blesse God for my owne private condition. 
 
 Here was Mons r de l'Angle, the famous minister of Charenton, 
 lately fled from the persecution in France, concerning y e deplorable con- 
 dition of the Protestants there. 
 
 18. I was present, and saw and heard the humble submission 
 and petition of the Lord Maior, Sheriffs, and Aldermen, on behalf of 
 the Citty of London, on the quo warranto against their charter, 
 which thev deliver'd to his Ma ty in the Presence-chamber. It was de- 
 liver'd kneeling, and then the King and Council went into the Council- 
 chamber, the Maior and his brethren attending still in the Presence- 
 chamber. After a short space they were called in, and my Lord 
 Keeper made a speech to them, exaggerating the disorderly and riotous 
 behaviour in the late election, and polling for Papillon and Du Bois 
 after the Common-hall had ben formally dissolv'd ; with other misde- 
 meanors, libells on the Government, &c. by which they had incurr'd 
 his Ma l > s high displeasure ; and that but for this submission, and under 
 such articles as the King should require their obedience to, he would 
 certainly enter judgment against them, which hitherto he had sus- 
 pended. The things requir'd were as follows : that they should 
 
 vol. I. 4 b 
 
554 [1683. 
 
 neither elect Maior, Sheriff, Aldermen, Recorder, Common Serjeant, 
 Towne Cleark, Coroner, or Steward of Southwark, without his Ma^' s 
 approbation ; and that if they presented any his Ma'^ did not like, 
 they should proceed in wonted manner to a second choice ; if that was 
 disapprov'd, his Ma tv to nominate them ; and if within five daies they 
 thought good to assent to this, all former miscarriages should be for- 
 gotten. And so they tamely parted with their so ancient privileges 
 after they had dined and ben treated by the King. This was a signal 
 and most remarkable period. What the consequences will prove, time 
 will shew. Divers of the old and most learned lawyers and judges 
 were of opinion that they could not forfeit their charter, but might be 
 personally punish'd for their misdemeanors; but the plurality of the 
 younger judges and rising men judg'd it otherwise. 
 
 The Popish Plot also, which had hitherto made such a noise, began 
 now sensibly to dwindle, thro' the folly, knavery, impudence, and 
 giddiness of Oates, so as the Papists began to hold up their heads 
 higher than ever, and those who had fled, flock'd to London from 
 abroad. Such suddaine changes and eager doings there had ben, with- 
 out any thing steady or prudent for these last seaven yeares. 
 
 19 June. I return'd to towne in a coach with the Earle of Claren- 
 don, when passing by the glorious palace his father built but few 
 yeares before, which they were now demolishing, being sold to cer- 
 taine undertakers, I turn'd my head the contrary way till the coach was 
 gone past it, least I might minister occasion of speaking of it, which 
 must needs have griev'd him, that in so short a time their pomp was 
 fallen. 
 
 28. After the Popish Plot there was now a new, and (as they call'd 
 it) a Protestant Plot discover'd, that certaine Lords and others should 
 designe the assassination of the King and the Duke as they were to 
 come from New-market, with a general rising of y e Nation, and espe- 
 cialy of the Citty of London, disaffected to the\present Government; 
 upon which were committed to the Tower the Lord Russell, eldest son 
 of the Earle of Bedford, the Earle of Essex, Mr. Algernon Sydney son 
 to the old Earle of Leicester, Mr. Trenchard, Hampden, Lord Howard 
 of Escrick, and others. A proclamation was issued against my Lord 
 
555 
 
 Grev, the Duke of Monmouth, S r Tho. Armstrong, and one Ferguson, 
 who had escaped beyond sea ; of these some were said to be for killing 
 the King, others for onely seizing on him and persuading him to new 
 counsels, on the pretence of the danger of Popery should the Duke 
 live to succeed, who was now again admitted to the councils and cabi- 
 net seacrets. The Lords Essex and Russell were much deplor'd, few 
 believing they had any evil intention against the King or the Church ; 
 some thought they were cunningly drawn in by their enemies for not 
 approving some late councils and management relating to France, to 
 Popery, to the persecution of the Dissenters, &c. They were disco- 
 vered by the Lord Howard of Escrick and some false brethren of the 
 club, and the designe happily broken ; had it taken effect, it would, to 
 all appearance, have expos'd the Government to unknowne and dan- 
 gerous events, which God avert ! 
 
 28. Was borne my grand-daughter at Says Court, and christned by 
 the name of Martha Maria, our Viccar officiating. I pray God blesse 
 her, and may she choose the better part. 
 
 13 July. As I was visiting S r Tho. Yarbrow and his Lady in Co- 
 vent Garden, the astonishing newes was brought to us of the Earle of 
 Essex having cut his throat, having ben but three days a prisoner in 
 the Tower, and this happening on the very day and instant that Lord 
 Russell was on his trial, and had sentence of death. This accident 
 exceedingly amaz'd me, my Lord Essex being so well known by me 
 to be a person of such sober and religious deportment, so well at his 
 ease, and so much oblig'd to the King. It is certaine the King and 
 Duke were at the Tower, and pass'd by his window about the same 
 time this morning, when my Lord asking for a rasor shut himselfe into 
 a closet and perpetrated the horrid act. Yet it was wondred by some 
 how it was possible he should do it in the manner he was found, for 
 the wound was so deepe and wide, that being cut thro' the gullet, 
 wind-pipe, and both the jugulars, it reach'd to the very vertebrae of y e 
 neck, so that the head held to it by a very little skin as it were ; y e 
 gapping too of y e rasor, and cutting his owne fingers, was a little 
 strange; but more, that having pass'd the jugulars he should have 
 
556 
 
 [1683. 
 
 strength to proceed so far, that an executioner could hardly have don 
 more with an axe. There were odd reflections upon it *. 
 
 This fatal newes coming to Hicks's Hall upon the article of my 
 Lord Russell's trial, was said to have had no little influence on the 
 Jury and all the Bench to his prejudice. Others said that he had him- 
 selfe on some occasions hinted, that in case he should he in danger of 
 having his life taken from him by any publiq misfortune, those who 
 thirsted for his estate should misse of their aim ; and that he should 
 speak favourably of that Earle of Northumberland f, and some others 
 who made away with themselves ; but these are discourses so unlike 
 his sober and prudent conversation, that I have no inclination to credit 
 them. What might instigate him to this devilish fact, I am not able 
 to conjecture. My Lord Clarendon, his brother-in-law, who was with 
 him but the day before, assur'd me he was then very cherefull, and 
 declar'd it to be the effect of his innocence and loyalty ; and most be- 
 lieve that his Ma l > had no severe intentions against him, tho' he was 
 altogether inexorable as to Lord Russell, and some of the rest. For 
 my part, I believe the crafty and ambitious Earle of Shaftesbury had 
 brought them into some dislike of the present carriage of matters at 
 Court, not with any designe of destroying the Monarchy (which 
 Shaftesbury has in confidence and for unanswerable reasons told me he 
 would support to his last breath, as having seene and felt the miserie 
 of being under mechanic tyranny), but perhaps of setting up some 
 other whom he might governe, and frame to his own Platonic fancie, 
 without much regard to the religion established under the Hierarchie, 
 for which he had no esteeme ; but when he perceiv'd those whom he 
 had engag'd to rise, fail of his expectations, and the day past, reproeh- 
 ing his complices that a second day for an exploit of this nature was 
 never successfull, he gave them the slip, and got into Holland, where 
 the fox died, three moneths before these unhappy Lords and others 
 were discover'd or suspected. Every one deplor'd Essex and Russell, 
 
 * Bishop Burnet, after making every enquiry by desire of the Countess, does not believe that 
 Essex was murdered. Own Times, vol. I. p. 569. 
 
 ■f Henry Percy, eighth Earl of Northumberland, shot himself in the Tower, to which he had 
 been committed on a charge of high treason in June 1585. 
 
1683-] 557 
 
 especialy the last, as being thought to have ben drawn in on pretence 
 only of endeavouring to rescue the King from his present councellors, 
 and secure Religion from Popery, and the Nation from arbitrary Go- 
 vernment, now so much apprehended ; whilst the rest of those who 
 were fled, especialy Ferguson and his gang, had doubtlesse some bloudy 
 designe, to set up a Commonwealth, and turn all things topsy turvy. 
 Of the same tragical principles is Sidney. 
 
 13. I had this day much discourse with Mons r Pontaq, son to y c 
 famous and wise prime President of Bourdeaux. This gentleman was 
 owner of that excellent vignoble of Pontaq and Obrien, from whence 
 come the choicest of our Bourdeaux wines ; and I think I may truly 
 say of him, what was not so truly said of St. Paul, that much learning 
 had made him mad. He had studied well in philosophic, but cheifly 
 the rabbines, and was exceedingly addicted to cabalistical fancies, an 
 eternal hablador [babbler], and halfe distracted by reading aboundance 
 of the extravagant Eastern Jewes. He spake all languages, was very 
 rich, had a handsome person, and was well bred, about 45 yeares 
 of age. 
 
 14 July. 1 visited Mr. Fraser, a learned Scots gent", whom I had 
 formerly recommended to Lord Berkeley for the instruction and govern- 
 ment of his sonn, since dead at sea. He had now ben in Holland at 
 the sale of y e learned Heinsius's library, and shewed me some very rare 
 and curious bookes, and some MSS. which he had purchas'd to good 
 value. There were three or foure Herbals in miniature, accurately 
 don, divers Roman antiquities, of Verona, and very many books of 
 Aldus's impression. 
 
 15. A stranger, an old man, preach'd on 6 Jerem. 8. the not 
 hearkening to instruction, portentous of desolation to a people; much 
 after Bp. Andrews's method, full of logical divisions, in short and 
 broken periods, and Latine sentences, now quite out of fashion in the 
 pulpit, which is grown into a far more profitable way, of plaine and 
 practical discourses, of which sort this Nation, or any other, never had 
 greater plenty or more profitable (I am confident) ; so much has it to 
 answer for thriving; no better on it. 
 
558 
 
 The public was now in greate consternation on the late plot and 
 conspiracy ; his Majestie very melancholy, & not stirring without 
 double guards ; all the avenues and private dores about White-hall and 
 the Park shut up, few admitted to walke in it. The Papists in the 
 meane time very jocond, and indeede with reason, seeing their own plot 
 brought to nothing, and turn'd to ridicule, and now a conspiracy of 
 Protestants as they call'd them. 
 
 The Turks were likewise in hostility against the German Emperor, 
 almost masters of the Upper Hungary, and drawing towards Vienna. 
 On the other side the French King (who 'tis believ'd brought in the 
 infidels) disturbing his Spanish and Dutch neighbours, having swal- 
 low'd up almost all Flanders, pursuing his ambition of a fifth universal 
 monarchy ; and all this blood and disorder in Christendom had evi- 
 dently its rise from our defections at home, in a wanton peace, minding 
 nothing but luxurie, ambition, and to procure money for our vices. 
 To this add our irreligion and atheism, greate ingratitude, and selfe 
 interest ; the apostacy of some, and the suffering the French to grow 
 so greate, and the Hollanders so weake. In a word, we were wanton, 
 madd, and surfeiting with prosperity ; every moment unsettling the 
 old foundations, and never constant to any thing. The Lord in mercy 
 avert the sad omen, and that we do not provoke him till he beare it 
 no longer ! 
 
 This summer did we suffer 20 French men of war to passe our 
 Channell towards the Sound, to help the Danes against the Swedes 
 who had abandon'd the French interest ; we not having ready sufficient 
 to guard our coasts or take cognizance of what they did ; tho' the 
 nation never had more, or a better navy, yet the sea never had so 
 slender a fleete. 
 
 19 July. George Prince of Denmark, who landed this day, came to 
 marry the Lady Anne, daughter to the Duke ; so I returned home, 
 having seene the young gallant at dinner at White-hall. 
 
 20. Severall of the Conspirators of y e lower forme were executed at 
 Tvburn ; and the next day, 
 
 21. Lord Russell was beheaded in Lincoln's Inn Fields, the execu- 
 tioner giving him three butcherly strokes. The speech he made, 
 
559 
 
 and paper which he gave the Sheriff declaring his innocence, the 
 noblenesse of the family, the piety and worthynesse of y e unhappy 
 gentleman, wrought much pity, and occasion'd various discourses on 
 the plot. 
 
 25. I againe saw Prince George of Denmark : he had the Danish 
 countenance, blonde, of few words, spake French but ill, seem'd some- 
 what heavy, but reported to be valiant, and indeede he had bravely 
 rescu'd and brought off his brother the K. of Denmark in a battaile 
 against the Swedes, when both those Kings were engag'd very smartly. 
 
 28. He was married to the Lady Anne at White-hall. Her Court 
 and Household to be modell'd as the Duke's, her father, had ben, and 
 they to continue in England. 
 
 1 Aug. Came to see me Mr. Flamsted, the famous astronomer, 
 from his Observatorie at Greenewich, to draw the meridian for my 
 pendule, &c. 
 
 2. The Countesses of Bristol and Sunderland, aunt and cousin 
 german of the late Lord Russell, came to visite me, and condole his 
 sad fate. The next dav came Cob Russell, uncle to the late Lord 
 Russell, and brother to the Earle of Bedford, and with him Mrs. 
 Middleton, that famous and indeede incomparable beauty, daughter to 
 my relation S Rob f Needham. 
 
 19. I went to Bromely to visite our Bishop, and excellent neigh- 
 bour, & to congratulate his now being made Archbishop of Yorke. On 
 the 28th he came to take his leave of us, now preparing for his journey 
 and residence in his province. 
 
 28. My sweete little grandchild Martha Maria died, and on the 
 29th was buried in the parish church. 
 
 2 Sept. This morning was read in the Church, after the office was 
 done, the declaration setting forth the late conspiracy against the 
 King's person. 
 
 3. I went to see what had ben done by the Duke of Beaufort on his 
 late purchas'd house at Chelsey, which I once had the selling of for the 
 Countesse of Bristol; he had made greate alterations, but might have 
 built a better house with the materials and the cost he had been at. 
 
560 
 
 Saw y e Countesse of Monte Feltre, whose husband I had formerly 
 known ; he was a subject of the Pope's, but becoming a Protestant, he 
 resided in England, and married into the family of the Savilles of 
 Yorkshire. The Count, her late husband, was a very learned gent: a 
 greate politician, and a goodly man. She was accompanied by her sister 
 exceedingly skill'd in painting, nor did they spare for colour on their 
 owne faces. They had a greate deal of wit. 
 
 9. It being the day of publiq thanksgiving for his Ma'>' s late pre- 
 servation, the former declaration was againe read, and there was an 
 office us'd, compos'd for the occasion. A loyal Sermon was preached 
 on y e divine right of Kings, from 144 Psalm 10. " Thou hast preserved 
 David from the peril of the sword." 
 
 15. Came to visite me the learned anatomist Dr. Tyson, with some 
 other Fellows of our Society. 
 
 16. At the elegant villa and garden of Mr. Bohun's at Lee. He 
 shewed me the zinnar tree or platanus, and told me that since they 
 had planted this kind of tree about the Citty of Ispahan in Persia, the 
 plague, w ch formerly much infested the place, had exceedingly abated 
 of its mortal effects, and render'd it very healthy. 
 
 18. I went to London to visite y e Dutchesse of Grafton, now greate 
 with child, a most virtuous and beautifull lady. Dining with her at 
 my Lord Chamberlaine's, met my Lord of St. Alban's, now grown so 
 blind that he could not see to take his meate. He has liv'd a most 
 easy life, in plenty even abroad, whilst his Ma tv was a sufferer ; he has 
 lost immense sums at play, which yet, at about 80 yeares old, he 
 continues, having one that sits by him to name the spots in the cards. 
 He eate and drank with extraordinary appetite. He is a prudent old 
 courtier, and much enrich'd since his Ma ,v ' s returne. 
 
 After dinner I walked to survey the sad demolition of Clarendon 
 House, that costly and only sumptuous palace of the late Lord Chan- 
 cellor Hyde, where I have often ben so cheerfull with him, and some- 
 times so sad: happening to make him a visite but the day before he fled 
 from the angry Parliament, accusing him of mal-administration, and 
 being envious at his grandeur, who from a private lawyer came to be 
 father in law to the Duke of York, and as some would suggest, design- 
 
561 
 
 ing his Ma l >' s marriage with the Infanta of Portugal, not apt to breed ; 
 to this they imputed much of our unhappiness, and that he being sole 
 minister and favorite at his Majesty's Restauration, neglected to gratify 
 the King's suffering party, preferring those who were the cause of our 
 troubles. But perhaps as many of these things were injuriously laid to 
 his charge, so lie kept the government far steadier than it has prov'd 
 since. I could name some who I think contributed greately to his ruin, 
 the buffoones and the misses, to whom he was an eye-sore. 'Tis true 
 he was of a jolly temper after the old English fashion ; but France had 
 now the ascendant, and we were become quite another nation. The 
 Chancellor gone, and dying in exile, the Earl his successor sold that 
 which cost ^'50,000. building, to the young Duke of Albemarle for 
 ^25,000. to pay debts which how contracted remains yet a mystery, 
 his sonn being no wav a prodigal. Some imagine the Dutchesse his 
 daughter had ben chargeable to him. However it were, this stately 
 palace is decreed to ruine, to support the prodigious waste the Duke of 
 Albemarle had made of his estate since the old man died. He sold it 
 to the highest bidder, and it fell to certaine rich bankers and mechanics, 
 who gave for it and the ground about it ,^35,000. ; they designe a 
 new towne as it were, and a most magnificent piazza (i. e. square.) 
 'Tis said they have already materials towards it with what they sold of 
 the house alone, more worth than what they paid for it. See the 
 vicissitude of earthly things ! I was astonished at this demolition, nor 
 less at the little army of labourers and artificers levelling the ground, 
 laying foundations, and contriving greate buildings at an expence of 
 ,=£200,000. if they perfect their designe*. 
 
 * In a letter to Lord Cornbury, dated Says Court, 20 Jan. 166*5-6", Mr. Evelyn having been to 
 see Clarendon House, says, " 1 went with prejudice and a critical spirit, incident to those who fancv 
 they know any thing in art; I acknowledge that I have never seene a nobler pile. My old friend 
 and fellow-traveller (inhabitants and co-temporai ies at Rome) has perfectly acquitted himself. It 
 is, without hyperbole, the best contrived, the most usefull, gracefull, and magnificent house in 
 England ; I except not Audley End, which, though larger and full of gaudy barbarous ornaments, 
 dos not gratifie judicious spectators. Here is state and uie, solidity and beauty, most symetricallv 
 combined together. Nothing abroad pleases me better, nothing at home approches it. I have 
 no designe to gratifie the architect beyond what 1 am obliged as a professed honorer of virtue 
 wheresoever 'tis conspicuous ; but when 1 had seriously contemplated every roome (for I went 
 VOL. I. 4 c 
 
562 [1683. 
 
 19. In my walkes I stepp'd into a goldbeaters work-house, where 
 he shesv'd me the wonderfull ductilitie of that spreading and oylie 
 metall. He said it must be finer than the standard, sueh as was old 
 angel gold, and that of such he had once to y e value of ^lOO. stamp'd 
 with the agnus dei ; and coyn'd at the time of the holy war, which had 
 ben found in a ruin'd wall somewhere in the North, neere to Scotland, 
 some of which he beate into leaves, and the rest sold to y e curiosi in 
 antiquities and medails. 
 
 23 Sept. We had now y e welcome tidings of the King of Poland 
 raising the siege of Vienna, which had given terror to all Europe, and 
 utmost reproch to y e French, who 'tis believ'd brought in the Turks for 
 diversion that the French King might the more easily swallow Flanders, 
 and pursue his unjust conquests on the Empire, whilst we sat uncon- 
 cern'd and under a deadly charm from somebody. 
 
 There was this day a collection for rebuilding New-market, consum'd 
 by an accidental fire, which removing his Ma^ thence sooner than was 
 intended, put by the assassinates, who were disappointed of their ren- 
 dezvous and expectation by a wonderfull providence. This made the 
 King more earnest to render Winchester the seate of his autumnal field 
 diversions for the future, designing a palace there, where y e ancient 
 castle stood ; infinitely indeede preferable to New-market for prospects, 
 air, pleasure, and provisions. The surveior has already begun the 
 foundation for a palace, estimated to cost ^=35,000, and his Majesty 
 is purchasing ground about it to make a parke, &c. 
 
 4 Oct. I went to London, on receiving a note from the Countesse 
 of Arlington, of some considerable charge or advantage I might ob- 
 taine by applying myselfe to his .Ma' v on this signal conjuncture of his 
 Majesty entering up judgment against the City Charter; the proposal 
 made me I wholly declin'd, not being well satisfied with these violent 
 transactions, and not a little sorry that his Ma^ was so often put upon 
 things of this nature against so greate a Citty , the consequences whereofF 
 
 into 'em all, from the cellar to the platforme on the roofe), seene how well and judiciously the 
 walls were erected, the arches cut and turn'd, the timber brac'd, their scantlings and contignations 
 di9pos'd, I was most highly satisfied, and do acknowledge myselfe to have much improv'd by what 
 1 ohserv'd." 
 
1683.] , 563 
 
 may be so much to his prejudice ; so I return'd home. At this time the 
 Lord Cheif Justice Pemberton was displaced. He was held to be the 
 most learned of the judges, and an honest man. S r Geo. Jefferies was 
 advane'd, reputed to be most ignorant, but most daring. S r Geo. 
 Treby, Recorder of London, was also put by, and one Genner, an ob- 
 scure lawyer, set in his place. Eight of the richest and cheife alder- 
 men were remov'd, and all the rest made onely justices of the peace, 
 and no more wearing of gownes or chaines of gold. The Lord Mayor 
 and two Sheriffs holding their places by new grants, as Custodes, at 
 the King's pleasure. The pompe and grandure of the most august 
 Citty in the world thus chang'd face in a moment, which gave greate 
 occasion of discourse and thoughts of hearts, what all this w ould end 
 in. Prudent men were for the old foundations. 
 
 Following his M l * this morning thro' the gallerie, I went, with the 
 few who attended him, into the Dutchesse of Portsmouth's dressing- 
 roome within her bed-chamber, where she was in her morning loose 
 garment, her maids combing her, newly out of her bed, his Ma^ and 
 the gallants standing about her; but that which engag'd my curiosity 
 was the rich and splendid furniture of this woman's apartment, now 
 twice or thrice pull'd down and rebuilt to satisfie her prodigal and ex- 
 pensive pleasures, whilst her Ma l > s does not exceede some gentlemen's 
 ladies in furniture and accommodation. Here I saw the new fabriq of 
 French tapissry, for designe, tendernesse of worke, and incomparable 
 imitation of the best paintings, beyond any thing 1 had ever beheld. 
 Some pieces had Versailles, St. German's, and other palaces of the 
 French King, with huntings, figures, and landskips, exotiq fowls, and 
 all to the life rarely don. Then for Japan cabinets, screenes, pendule 
 clocks, greate vases of wrought plate, tables, stands, chimney furni- 
 ture, sconces, branches, braseras, &c. all of massie silver, and out of 
 number, besides some of her Ma tss best paintings. 
 
 Surfeiting of this, I din'd at S r Stephen Fox's, and went contented 
 home to my poor, but quiet villa. What contentment can there be 
 in the riches and splendor of this world, purchas'd with vice and dis- 
 honour ! 
 
564 
 
 [1683. 
 
 10 Oct. Visited the Dutehesse of Grafton, not yet brought to bed, 
 and dining with my Lord Chamberlaine (her father), went with them 
 to see Montagu House*, a palace lately built by Lord Montagu, who 
 had married y e most beautifull Countesse of Northumberland -f\ It is 
 a stately and ample palace. Sign r Verrio's fresca paintings, especialy 
 the funeral pile of Dido, on y e stayrecase, the labours of Hercules, 
 fight with the Centaurs, effeminacy with Dejanira, and Apotheosis or 
 reception amongst the gods, on y e walls and roofe of the greate roome 
 above, I think exceedes any thing he has yet don, both for designe, 
 colouring, and exuberance of invention, comparable to y e greatest of 
 the old masters, or what they so celebrate at Rome. In the rest of the 
 chamber are some excellent paintings of Holbein and other masters. 
 The garden is large, and in good aire, but the fronts of the house not 
 answerable to the inside. The Court at entrie, and wings for offices 
 seeme too neere the streete, and that so very narrow and meanely built 
 that the corridore is not in proportion to y e rest, to hide the court from 
 being overlook'd by neighbours, all which might have ben prevented 
 had they plac'd the house further into y e ground, of which there was 
 enough to spare. But on the whole it is a fine palace, built after the 
 French pavilion way, by Mr. Hooke, the Curator of the Royal Society. 
 There were with us my Lady Scroope, the greate witt, and Mons r 
 Chardine+, the celebrated traveller. 
 
 13. Came to visite me my old and worthy friend Mr. Packer, 
 bringing with him his nephew Berkeley, grandson to the honest judge. 
 A most ingenious, virtuous, and religious gent", seated neere Worces- 
 ter, and very curious in gardening. 
 
 17 Oct. I was at the court leet of this manor, my Lord Arlington 
 his Ma l > ,s High Steward §. 
 
 26. Came to visite and dine with me, Mr. Brisbane, Secretary to 
 the Admiralty, a learned and agreeable man. 
 
 * See p. 513. 
 
 f He was made Earl of Montagu by King William, and Duke\>y Queen Anne. His wife was 
 Lady Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas Wriothesley Earl of Southampton, widow of Joceline Percy, 
 the 11th and last Earl of Northumberland (of that family), 
 
 I See p. 567. § The manor of Deptford le Strond, alias West Greenwich. 
 
565 
 
 30. I went to Kew to visite S r Hen. Capell, brother to the late 
 Earle of Essex ; but he being gone to Cashioberry, after I had seene 
 his garden* and the alterations therein, I return'd home. He had re- 
 pair'd his house, roof'd his hall with a kind of cupola, and in a niche 
 was an artificial fountaine ; but the roome seems to me over melan- 
 choly, yet might be much improv'd by having the walls well painted a 
 frtsca. The two greene houses for oranges and mirtles communicating 
 with the roomes below, are very well contriv'd-f\ There is a cupola 
 made with pole-work betweene two elmes at the end of a walk, which 
 being cover'd by plashing the trees to them, is very pretty : for the rest 
 there are too many fir trees in the garden. 
 
 17 Nov. I tooke a house in Villiers Streete, York Buildings, for 
 the winter, having many important concernes to dispatch, and for the 
 education of my daughters. 
 
 23. The Duke of Monmouth, till now proclaim'd traytor on the 
 pretended plot for which Lord Russell was lately beheaded, came this 
 evening to White-hall and render'd himselfe, on which were various 
 discourses. 
 
 26. I went to compliment the Dutchesse of Grafton, now laying- 
 in of her first child, a sonn^, which she call'd for, that I might see it. 
 She was become more beautiful, if it were possible, than before, and 
 full of vertue and sweetnesse. She discours'd with me of many parti- 
 culars, with greate prudence and gravity beyond her yeares. 
 
 29. Mr. Forbes shew'ei me the plot of the garden making at Bur- 
 leigh, at my Lord Exeter's, which I look'd on as one of the most noble 
 that I had seene. 
 
 The whole court and towne in solemn mourning for the death of the 
 K. of Portugal, her Ma ,ies brother. 
 
 30. At the anniversary dinner of the Royal Society the King sent 
 us two does. S r Cyril Wych was elected President. 
 
 * Archaeologia, vol. XII. p. 185. 
 
 f Of late years this plan has been adopted at many gentlemen's houses. (1816.) 
 
 X Charles, who succeeded his father killed in Ireland in 1690. This son was Lord Lieutenant 
 of Ireland, Lord Chamberlain, Privy Counsellor, K. G. &c. in the reigns of Anne, George I. and 
 George II. There is a fine whole-length mezzotinto of him by Faber. 
 
566 [1683. 
 
 5 Dec. I was this day invited to a wedding of one Mrs. Castle, to 
 whom I had some obligation, and it was to her fifth husband, a Lieut 1 
 Colonel of the Citty. She was the daughter of one Burton, a broom- 
 man, by his wife who sold kitchen stuff in Kent Streete, whom God so 
 bless'd that the father became a very rich, and was a very honest man ; 
 he was Sheriff of Surrey*, where I have sat on the bench with him. 
 Another of his daughters was married to Sir John Bowles ; and this 
 daughter was a jolly friendly woman. There was at the wedding y e 
 Lord Maior, the Sheriff, several Aldermen, and persons of qualitie : 
 above all, S' Geo. Jefferies, newly made Lord Cheife Justice of England, 
 with Mr. Justice Withings, daunc'd with the bride and were exceeding 
 merrie. These greate men spent the rest of the afternoone, till 1 1 at 
 night, in drinking healths, taking tobacco, and talking much beneath 
 the gravity of Judges that had but a day or two before condemn'd Mr. 
 Algernon Sidney, who was executed the 7th on Tower Hill, on the 
 single witnesse of that monster of a man, Lord Howard of Escrick, 
 and some sheets of paper taken in Mr. Sidney's study, pretended to be 
 written by him, but not fully prov'd, nor the time when, but appearing 
 to have ben written before his Majesty's restauration, and then pardon'd 
 by the act of oblivion ; so that tho' Mr. Sidney was known to be a 
 person obstinately averse to government by a monarch (the subject of 
 the paper was in answer to one of S r E. Filmer), yet it was thought he 
 had very hard measure. There is this yet observable, that he had ben 
 an inveterate enemie to the last King, and in actual rebellion against 
 him ; a man of greate courage, greate sense, greate parts, which he 
 shew'd both at his trial and death ; for when he came on the scaffold, 
 instead of a speech, he told them onely that he had made his peace 
 with God, that he came not thither to talk, but to die; put a paper 
 into the Sheriff's hand, and another into a friend's, sayd one prayer as 
 short as a grace, laid down his neck, and bid the executioner do his 
 office. 
 
 The Duke of Monmouth, now having his pardon, refuses to acknow- 
 ledge there was any treasonable plot ; for which he is banish'd White- 
 
 * In 1673. 
 
1683.] 
 
 567 
 
 hall. This was a greate disappointment to some who had prosecuted 
 Trenchard, Hampden, &c. that for want of a second witnesse were 
 come out of the Tower upon their habeas corpus. 
 
 The King had now augmented his guards with a new sort of dra- 
 goons, who carried also granados, and were habited after the Polish 
 manner, with long picked caps, very fierce and fantastical. 
 
 7- I went to the Tower, and visited the Earl of Danby, the late 
 Lord High Treasurer, who had ben imprisoned four years : he receiv'd 
 me with greate kindnesse. I dined with him, and staied till night. 
 We had discourse of many things, his Lady railing sufficiently at the 
 keeping her husband so long in prison. Here I saluted the Lord Durn- 
 blaine's wife*, who before had ben married to Emerton, and about 
 whom there was that scandalous businesse before y e delegates. 
 
 23. The small pox very prevalent and mortal ; the Thames frozen. 
 
 26. I dined at Lord Clarendon's, where I was to meet that inge- 
 nious and learned gent" S r Geo. Wheeler, who has published the excel- 
 lent description of Africa and Greece, and who being a Knight of a 
 very fair estate and young, had now newly entred into holy orders. 
 
 27- I went to visite Sir John Chardin, a French gentleman who had 
 travell'd three times by land into Persia, and had made many curious 
 researches in his travells, of which he was now setting forth a relation. 
 It being in England this year one of the severest frosts that had hap- 
 pen'd of many yeares, he told me the cold in Persia was much greater, 
 the ice of an incredible thicknesse ; that they had little use of iron in all 
 that country, it being so moiste (tho' the aire admirably clear and 
 healthy), that oyle would not preserve it from rusting, so that they had 
 neither clocks nor watches ; some padlocks they had for doores and 
 boxes. 
 
 30. Dr. Sprat, now made Deane of Westminster, preached to the 
 King at White-hall, on 6 Matt. 24. Recollecting the passages of the 
 past yeare, I gave God thanks for his mercies, praying his blessing for 
 the future. 
 
 * Peregrine Viscount Dumblaine, youngest son of the Earl of Danby, so created in his fathers 
 life-time, and who became his successor in title and estate. 
 
568 [1684. 
 
 1684, 1 Jan. The weather continuing intolerably severe, streetes of 
 booths were set upon the Thames ; the aire was so very cold and thick, 
 as of many yeares there had not ben the like. The small pox was very 
 mortal. 
 
 2. I din'd at S r Ste. Fox's : after dinner came a fellow who eate live 
 charcoal, glowingly ignited, quenching them in his mouth, and then 
 champing and swallowing them down. There was a dog also which 
 seem'd to do manv rational actions. 
 
 6. The river quite frozen. 
 
 9. I went crosse the Thames on the ice, now become so thick as to 
 beare not onely streetes of boothes, in which they roasted meate, and 
 had divers shops of wares, quite acrossc as in a towne, but coaches, 
 carts, and horses, passed over. So I went from Westminster Stayres to 
 Lambeth, and din'd with the Archbishop : where I met my Lord Bruce, 
 Sir Geo. Wheeler, Coll. Cooke, and severall divines. After dinner and 
 discourse with his Grace till evening prayers, Sir Geo. Wheeler and I 
 walked over the ice from Lambeth Stayres to the horse ferry. 
 
 10. I visited Sir Robert Reading, where after supper we had musiq, 
 but not comparable to that which Mrs. Bridgeman made us on the 
 guittar with such extraordinary skill and desterity. 
 
 16. The Thames was fill'd with people and tents, selling all sorts of 
 wares as in the Cittv. 
 
 24. The frost continuing more and more severe, the Thames before 
 London was still planted with boothes in formal streetes, all sorts of 
 trades and shops furnish'd and full of commodities, even to a printing 
 presse, where the people and ladyes tooke a fancy to have their names 
 printed, and the day and yeare set down when printed on the Thames*: 
 this humour tooke so universally, that 'twas estimated the printer 
 gain'd £o. a day, for printing a line onely, at sixpence a name, be- 
 sides what he got by ballads, &c. Coaches plied from Westminster to 
 the Temple, and from several other staires to and fro, as in the 
 
 * By favour of a gentleman possessed of innumerable literary curiosities, I have one of these 
 cards now before me. Within a treble border,. " Mons r et Mad'" Ju.-tel. Printed on the River 
 of Thames being frozen. In the 36th jear of King Charles the II. February the 5th, v. s. 
 
 is added with a pen, probably by Mr. Justell. Editor. 
 
569 
 
 streetes, sleds, sliding with skeetes, a bull-baiting, horse and coach 
 races, puppet plays and interludes, cookes, tipling, and other lewd 
 places, so that it seem'd to be a bacchanalian triumph, or carnival on 
 the water, whilst it was a severe judgment on the land, the trees not 
 onely splitting as if lightning-struck, but men and cattle perishing in 
 divers places, and the very seas so lock'd up with ice, that no vessells 
 could stir out or come in. The fowles, fish, and birds, and all our 
 exotiq plants and greenes universally perishing. Many parkes of deer 
 were destroied, and all sorts of fuell so deare that there were greate con- 
 tributions to preserve the poore alive. Nor was this severe weatber 
 much lesse intense in most parts of Europe, even as far as Spaine and 
 the most Southern tracts. London, by reason of the excessive cold- 
 nesse of the aire hindering the ascent of the smoke, was so fill'd with 
 the fuliginous steame of the sea-coale, that hardly could one see crosse 
 the streetes, and this filling the lungs with its grosse particles, exceed- 
 ingly obstructed the breast, so as one could scarcely breath. Here was 
 no water to be had from the pipes and engines, nor could the brewers 
 and divers other tradesmen worke, and every moment was full of dis- 
 astrous accidents. 
 
 4 Feb. I went to Says Court to see how the frost had dealt with 
 my garden, where I found many of the greenes and rare plantes utterlv 
 destroied. The oranges and mirtills very sick, the rosemary and laurells 
 dead to all appearance, but y e cypress likely to indure it. 
 
 5. It began to thaw, but froze againe. My coach crossed from 
 Lambeth to the Horseferry at Millbank, Westminster. The booths 
 were almost all taken downe, but there was first a Map or Landskip 
 cut in copper representing all the manner of the camp, and the several 
 actions, sports, and pastimes thereon, in memory of so signal a frost*. 
 
 7« I dined with my Lord Keeper [NorthJ, and walking alone with 
 him some time in his gallery, we had discourse of musiq. He told me 
 he had ben brought up to it from a child, so as to sing his part at first 
 sight. Then speaking of Painting, of which he was also a greate 
 
 * There are different representations of this curious scene, both in wood and copper-plate en- 
 gravings. 
 
 VOL. I. 4 D 
 
570 [1684- 
 
 lover, and other ingenious matters, he desir'd me to come oftener 
 to him. 
 
 8. I went this evening to visite that greate and knowing virtuoso 
 Mons r Justell. The weather was set in to an absolute thaw and raine, 
 hut y e Thames still frozen. 
 
 10. After eight weekes missing the foraine posts, there came 
 aboundance of intelligence from abroad. 
 
 12. The Earle of Danby, late Lord Treasurer, together with 
 the Roman Catholic Lords impeach'd of High Treason in the Popish 
 Plot, had now their Habeas Corpus, and came out upon baile, after five 
 yeares imprisonment in the Tower. Then were also tried and deeply 
 fin'd Mr. Hampden and others for being suppos'd of the late Plot, for 
 which Lord Russell and Col. Sidney suffer'd ; as also the person who 
 went about to prove that the Earle of Essex had his throat cut in the 
 Tower by others ; likewise Mr. Johnson, the author of that famous 
 piece called Julian. 
 
 15. Newes of the Prince of Orange having accus'd the Deputies of 
 Amsterdam of Crimen lesse Majestatis, and being Pensioners to France. 
 
 Dr. Tenison communicated to me his intention of erecting a Library 
 in St. Martin's parish, for the publiq use, and desir'd my assistance with 
 S r Christ 1 " Wren about the placeing and structure thereof. -A worthy 
 and laudable designe. He told me there were 30 or 40 young men in 
 Orders in his parish, either Governors to young gentlemen, or Chaplains 
 to noblemen, who being reprov'd by him on occasion for frequenting 
 taverns or coffee-houses, told him they would study or employ their 
 time better if they had books. This put the pious Doctor on this de- 
 signe ; and indeede a greate reproch it is that so greate a Citty as 
 London should not have a publiq Library becoming it. There ought 
 to be one at St. Paules ; the West end of that church (if ever finish'd), 
 would be a convenient place. 
 
 23. I went to Sir John Chardine, who desired my assistance for the 
 engraving the plates, the translation, and printing his History of that 
 wonderfull Persian Monument neere Persepolis, and other rare anti- 
 quities, which he had caus'd to be drawne from the originals in his 
 second journey into Persia, which we now concluded upon. After- 
 
I684-] 571 
 
 wards I went with S r Christ' Wren to D r Tenison, where we made the 
 drawing and estimate of the expence of the Library, to be begun this 
 next Spring neere the Mewes*. 
 
 Greate expectation of the Prince of Orange's attempts in Holland to 
 bring those of Amsterdam to consent to the new levies, to which we 
 were no friends, by a pseudo-politic adherence to the French interest. 
 
 26. Came to visite me Dr. Turner, our new Bishop of Rochester. 
 
 28. I din'd at Lady Tuke's, where I heard D r Walgrave (Phy- 
 sitian to y e Duke and Dutchesse) play excellently on the lute. 
 
 7 March. Dr. Meggot, Deane of Winchester, preached an incompa- 
 rable sermon, (the King being now gone to New-market,) on 12 Heb. 
 15. shewing and pathetically pressing the care we ought to have least 
 we come short of the grace of God. Afterwards I went to visite Dr. 
 Tenison at Kensington, whither he was retired to refresh after he had 
 ben sick of the small pox. 
 
 15. At White-hall preached Mr. Henry Godolphin, a prebend of 
 St. Paules, and brother to my deare friend Sydnie, on 55 Isaiah 7- I 
 dined at the Lord Keeper's, and brought to him Sir John Chardin, who 
 shewed him his accurate draughts of his travells in Persia. 
 
 28. There was so greate a concourse of people with their children 
 to be touch'd for the Evil, that 6 or 7 were crush'd to death by pressing 
 at the Chirurgeon's doore for tickets. The weather began to be more 
 mild and tolerable, but there was not the least appearance of any 
 Spring. 
 
 30. Easter day. The Bp. of Rochester [Dr. Turner]] preach'd be- 
 fore the King ; after which his Ma ty , accompanied with three of his 
 natural sonns, the Dukes of Northumberland, Richmond, and St. 
 Alban's (sons of Portsmouth, Cleaveland, and Nelly), went up to the 
 Altar ; y e three boyes entering before the King within the railes, at the 
 right hand, and three Bishops on the left, viz. London (who officiated), 
 Durham, and Rochester, with the Sub-dean Dr. Holder. The King 
 
 * There is now (1817) a handsome room well furnished with books, under the care of the Vicar 
 of St. Martin's, in CastKinBtreet, near the Mews gate. Sion College is more peculiarly appropriated 
 to the Clergy in the City. 
 
5^2 [1684. 
 
 kneeling before the Altar, making his offering, the Bishops first re- 
 ceiv'd, and then his Ma^ ; after which he retir'd to a canopied seate 
 on the right hand. Note, there was perfume burnt before the Office 
 began. I had receiv'd y e Sacrament at White-hall early with the Lords 
 and Household, y e Bp. of London officiating. Then went to St. Mar- 
 tin's, where Dr. Tenison preach'd (recover'd from y e small-pox) ; then 
 went againe to White-hall as above. In the afternoone went to St. 
 Martin's againe. 
 
 4 April. I return'd home with my family to my house at Says Court, 
 after five months residence in London ; hardly the least appearance of 
 any Spring. 
 
 30. A Letter of mine to the Royal Society concerning the terrible 
 effects of the past winter being read, they desired it might be printed 
 in the next Part of their Transactions *. 
 
 10 May. I went to visite my brother in Surrey. Call'd by the way 
 at Ashted, where S 1 * Rob* Howard (Auditor of the Exchequer) enter- 
 tain'd me very civilly at his new built house, which stands in a Park on 
 the Downe, the avenue South ; tho' downe hill to the house, which 
 is not greate, but with the outhouses very convenient. The staire-case 
 is painted by Verrio with the storie of Astrea ; amongst other figures 
 is the Picture of the Painter himselfe, and not unlike him ; the rest is 
 well done, onely the columns did not at all please me ; there is also 
 Sir Robert's own Picture in an oval ; the whole in fresco,. The place 
 has this greate defect, that there is no water but what is drawn up by- 
 horses from a very deepe well. 
 
 11. Visited Mr. Higham, who was ill, and died 3 days after. His 
 grandfather and father (who christen'd me), with himselfe, had now 
 ben Rectors of this parish 101 yeares, viz. from May 1583. 
 
 12. I return'd to London, where I found the Commissioners of the 
 Admiralty abolish'd, and the office of Admiral restor'd to y e Duke, as 
 to the disposal and ordering all Sea businesse ; but his Ma tv sign'd all 
 Petitions, Papers, Warrants, and Commissions, that the Duke, not 
 
 * This was done in No. 158. See it at length in Dr. Kippis's new edition of the Biog. Brit, 
 vol. V. p. 623. 
 
16S4.J 
 
 573 
 
 acting as Admiral by commission or office, might not incur the penalty 
 of the late Act against Papists and Dissenters holding offices, and re- 
 fusing the Oath and Test. Every one was glad of this change, those 
 in the late Commission being utterly ignorant in their duty, to the 
 greate damage of the Navy. 
 
 The utter ruine of the Low Country was threaten'd by the siege of 
 Luxembergh, if not timely reliev'd, and by the obstinacy of the Hol- 
 landers, who refus'd to assist the Prince of Orange, being corrupted by 
 the French. 
 
 16. I received ^8.600 of S' Charles Bickerstaff for the fee-farm of 
 Pilton in Devon. 
 
 26. Lord Dartmouth was chosen Master of the Trinity Com- 
 pany, newly return'd with the fleete from blowing up and demolishing 
 Tangier. In the sermon preach'd on this occasion, Dr. Can observ'd 
 that, in the 27th chapter of the Acts of the Apostles, the casting an- 
 chor out of the fore-ship had been cavill'd at as betraying total igno- 
 rance : that it is verv true our seamen do not do so, but in the Medi- 
 terranean their ships were built differently from ours, and to this day it 
 was the practice to do so there. 
 
 Luxembergh was surrender'd to the French, which makes them mas- 
 ter of all the Netherlands, gives them entrance into Germany, and a fair 
 game for universal monarchy ; which that we should suffer, who only 
 and easily might have hinder'd, astonish 'd all the world. Thus is the 
 poor Prince of Orange ruin'd, and this nation and all the Protestant 
 interest in Europe following, unlesse God in his infinite mercy, as by a 
 miracle, interpose, and our greate ones alter their counsels. The 
 French fleete were now besieging Genoa, but after burning much of 
 that beautifull citty with their bombs, went off with disgrace. 
 
 12 June. I went to advise and give directions about the building two 
 streetes in Berkeley Gardens, reserving the house and as much of the 
 garden as the breadth of the house. In the meane time I could not but 
 deplore that sweete place (by far the most noble gardens, courts, and ac- 
 commodations, stately porticos, &c. any where about the towne) should 
 be so much straighten'd and tum'd into tenements. But that magnificent 
 pile and gardens contiguous to it, built by the late Lord Chancellor Cla- 
 
5f4 [1684. 
 
 rendon, being all demolish'd, and design'd for Piazzas and buildings, was 
 some excuse for my Lady Berkeley's resolution of letting out her ground 
 also for so excessive a price as was ofFer'd, advancing neere ,^.1000 per 
 ann. in mere ground-rents ; to such a mad intemperance was the age 
 come of building about a citty, by far too disproportionate already to the 
 nation * : I having in my time seene it almost as large again as it was 
 within my memory. 
 
 11. My cousin Verney, to whom a very greate fortune was fallen, 
 came to take leave of us, going into the country ; a very worthy and 
 virtuous young gentleman. 
 
 22. Last Friday Sir Tho. Armstrong was executed at Tyburn for 
 treason, without tryal, having ben outlaw'd and apprehended in Hol- 
 land, on the conspiracy of the Duke of Monmouth, Lord Russell, &c. 
 which gave occasion of discourse to people and lawyers, in reguard it 
 was on an outlawry that judgment was given and execution -f\ 
 
 2 July. I went to the Observatory at Greenewich, where Mr. Flam- 
 sted tooke his observations of the eclipse of the sun, now almost three 
 parts obscured. 
 
 There had been an excessive hot and dry Spring, and such a drought 
 still continu'd as never was in my memorie. 
 
 13 July. Some small sprinkling of raine ; the leaves dropping from 
 the trees as in Autumn. 
 
 25. I din'd at Lord Falkland's, Treasurer of the Navy, where after 
 dinner we had rare musiq, there being, amongst others, Sign 1 " Pietro 
 Reggio, and Sig r John Battist, both famous, one for his voice, the 
 other for playing on y e harpsicord, few if any in Europe exceeding 
 him. There was also a Frenchman who sung an admirable basse. 
 
 26. I return'd home where I found my Lord Cheife Justice [Jeffe- 
 ries], the Countesse of Clarendon, and Lady Cath. Fitz-Gerald, who 
 dined with me. 
 
 * What would Mr. Evelyn think if he saw what is now called London ? 
 
 f When brought up for judgement Armstrong insisted on his right to a trial, the act giving that 
 right to those who came in within a year, and the year was not expired. Jefferies refused it ; and 
 when Armstrong insisted that he asked nothing but law, Jefferies told him he should have it to the 
 full, and ordered his execution in six days. When Jefferies went to the King at Windsor soon after 
 the trial, the King took a ring from his finger, and gave it to Jefferies. Burnet, II. 989. 
 
1684.] 575 
 
 JO Aug. We had now rain after such a drowth as no man in Eng- 
 land had known. 
 
 24. Excessive, hot. We had not had above one or two considerable 
 showers, and those storms, these 8 or 9 months. Many trees died for 
 the want of refreshment. 
 
 31. Mr. Sidney Godolphin was made Baron Godolphin. 
 
 26 Sept. The King being return'd from Winchester, there was a 
 numerous Court at White-hall. 
 
 At this time the Earle of Rochester was remov'd from the Treasury 
 to the Presidentship of the Council; Lord Godolphin was made first 
 Commiss r of the Treasury in his place ; Lord Middleton (a Scot) made 
 Secretary of State, in y e room of Lord Godolphin. These alterations 
 being very unexpected and mysterious, gave greate occasion of discourse. 
 
 There was now an Ambassador from y e King of Siam in y e the East In- 
 dies to his Majesty. 
 
 22 Oct. I went with S r William Godolphin to see the Rhinoceros, 
 or Unicorn, being the first that I suppose was ever brought into Eng- 
 land. She belong'd to some East India merchants, and was sold (as I 
 remember) for above ,^2000. 
 
 At the same time I went to see a Crocodile, brought from some of the 
 West India islands, resembling the Egyptian Crocodile. 
 
 24 Oct. I din'd at Sir Stephen Fox's with the Duke of Northum- 
 berland. He seem'd to be a young gentleman of good capacity, well 
 bred, civil, and modest : newly come from travell, and had made his 
 campaigne at the siege of Luxemburg. Of all his Ma** 8 children (of 
 which he had now six Dukes) this seem'd the most accomplish'd and 
 worth the owning. He is extraordinary handsome and well shap'd. 
 What y e Dukes of Richmond and St. Alban's will prove, their youth 
 does not yet discover ; they are very pretty boys. 
 
 26. Dr. Goodman preach'd before the King on 2 James 12. con- 
 cerning the law of liberty : an excellent discourse and in good method. 
 He is author of " The Prodigal Son," a treatise worth reading, and 
 another of the old Religion. 
 
 28. I carried Lord Clarendon thro' the Citty, amidst all the squibbs 
 and Bacchanalia of the Lord Maior's shew, to y e Royal Society [at 
 
5/6 [1684. 
 
 Gresham Coll.] where he was propos'd a member ; and then treated him 
 at dinner. 
 
 1 went to St. Clement's, that pretty built and contriv'd church, where 
 a young divine gave us an eloquent Sermon on 1 Cor. 6. 20. inciting to 
 gratitude and glorifying God for the fabriq of our bodys & the dignitie 
 of our nature. 
 
 2J. I visited the Lord Chamberlaine, where din'd the black Baron 
 and Mons r Flamerin, who had so long been banish'd France for a duel. 
 
 2 Nov. A suddaine change from temperate warme weather to an ex- 
 cessive cold rajne, frost, snow, and storm, such as had seldome ben 
 known. This Winter weather began as early and fierce as the past 
 did late; till about Christmas there then had ben hardly any Winter. 
 
 4. Dr. Turner, now translated from Rochester to Ely upon the death 
 of Dr. Peter Gunning, preached before the King at White- hall on 
 3 Romans 8, a very excellent sermon, vindicating the Church of Eng- 
 land against the pernicious doctrines of the Church of Rome. He 
 challenged the producing but of five Cleargymen who forsooke our Church 
 and went over to that of Rome, during all the troubles & rebellion in 
 England, which lasted neere twenty yeares ; and this was to my certaine 
 observation a greate truth. 
 
 15. Being the Queene's birth day, there were fire- works on the 
 Thames before White-hall, with pageants of castles, forts, and other 
 devices of gyrondolas, serpents, the King and Queene's armes and 
 rnottos, all represented in fire, such as had not ben seen here. But 
 the most remarkable was the severall fires and skirmishes in the very 
 water, which actually mov'd a long way, burning under the water, now 
 and then appering above it, giving reports like muskets and cannon, 
 with granados and innumerable other devices. It is said it cost ^.1500. 
 It was concluded with a ball, where all the young ladys and gallants 
 daunced in the greate hall. The Court had not ben seene so brave and 
 rich in apparell since his Ma tJ ' s Restauration. 
 
 30. In the morning Dr. Fiennes, sonn of the Lord Say & Scale, 
 preached before the King on 21 Joshua 1 1. 
 
 3 Dec. I carried Mr. Justell and Mr. Slingsby (Master of the 
 Mint), to see Mr. Sheldon's collection of Medaills. The series of 
 
1684.] 
 
 577 
 
 Popes was rare, and so were several amongst the modernes, especialy 
 that of John Husse's martyrdome at Constance; of the Roman Emp: 
 Consulars ; some Greeke, &c. in copper, gold, and silver ; not many 
 truly antique ; a medallion of Otho, P. JEmW. &c. hardly antient. They 
 were held at a price of ,^.1000. but not worth, I judge, above ^.200. 
 
 /. I went to see the new church at St. James's, elegantly built; 
 the altar was especialy adorn'd, the white marble inclosure curiously and 
 richly carved, the flowers and garlands about the walls by Mr. Gibbons 
 in wood ; a pelican with her young at her breast, just over the altar in 
 the carv'd compartment and border, invironing the purple velvet 
 fring'd with I. H. S. richly embroider'd, and most noble plate, were 
 given by S r R. Geere, to the value (as was said) of j£200. There 
 was no altar any where in England, nor has there ben any abroad, 
 more handsomely adorn'd. 
 
 17. Early in the morning I went into St. James's Park to see three 
 Turkish or Asian horses, newly brought over, and now first shewed to 
 his Ma tv . There were foure, but one of them died at sea, being three 
 weekes coming from Hamborow. They were taken from a Bashaw at the 
 siege of Vienna, at the late famous raising that leaguer. I never beheld 
 so delicate a creature as one oftliem was, of somewhat a bright bay, two 
 white feet, a blaze ; such a head, eyes, eares, neck, breast, belly, 
 haunches, legs, pasterns, and feete, in all reguards beautifull and pro- 
 portion'd to admiration ; spirited, proud, nimble, making halt, turn- 
 ing with that swiftnesse, and in so small a compasse, as was admirable. 
 With all this so gentle and tractable as call'd to mind what I remember 
 Busbequius speakes of them, to the reproch of our groomes in Europe, 
 who bring up their horses so churlishly as makes most of them retain 
 their ill habits. They trotted like does, as if they did not feele the 
 ground. 500 ginnies was demanded for the first ; 300 for the second ; 
 and 200 for the third, w cb was browne. All of them were choicely 
 shap'd, but the two last not altogether so perfect as the first. It was 
 judg'd by the spectators, among whom was the King, Prince of Den- 
 mark, Duke of Yorke, and several of the Court, noble persons skill'd 
 in horses, especialy Mons. Faubert and his sonn, (provost masters of 
 y e Academie, and esteem'd of the best in Europe,) that there were 
 vol. 1. 4 E 
 
578 [l684v 
 
 never seene any horses in these parts to be compar'd with them. Add 
 to all this, the furniture, consisting of embroidery on the saddle, hous- 
 ings, quiver, bow, arrows, scymeter, sword, mace, or battle-axe a la 
 Turcisq ; the Bashaw's velvet mantle furr'd with the most perfect ermine 
 lever beheld ; all which, yron-worke in common furniture, being here 
 of silver, curiously wrought and double gilt, to an incredible value. 
 Such and so extraordinary was the embrodery, that I never saw any 
 thing approching it. The reins and headstall were of crimson silk, 
 cover'd with chaines of silver gilt. There was also a Turkish royal 
 standard of an horse's taile, together with all sorts of other caparisons 
 belonging to a general's horse, by which one may estimate how gal- 
 lantly and magnificently those infidels appeare in the field, for nothing 
 could be seene more glorious. The gentleman (a German) who rid 
 the horse was in all this garb. They were shod with yron made round 
 and closed at the heele, with a hole in the middle about as wide as a 
 shilling. The hoofes most intire. 
 
 18. Dec. I went with Lord Cornwallis to see the young gallants do 
 their exercise, Mr. Faubert having newly rail'd in a manage, and fitted 
 it for the academy. There were the Dukes of Norfolk and Northum- 
 berland, Lord Newburgh, and a nephew of (Duras) Earle of Fever- 
 sham. The exercises were, 1, running at the ring ; 2. flinging a jave- 
 lin at a Moor's head ; 3. discharging a pistol at a mark ; lastly, taking 
 up a gauntlet with the point of a sword ; all these perform'd in full 
 speede. The D. of Northumberland hardly miss'd of succeeding in 
 every one, a dozen times, as I think. The D. of Norfolk did exceed- 
 ing bravely. Lords Newburgh and Duras seem'd nothing so dextrous. 
 Here I saw the difference of what y e French call " belle homme a, cheval" 
 and " bon homme a, cheval;" the Duke of Norfolk being the first, that 
 is, rather a fine person on a horse, the Duke of Northumberland being 
 both in perfection, namely, a graceful person and excellent rider. But 
 the Duke of Norfolk told me he had not ben at this exercise these 12 
 yeares before. There were in the field y e Prince of Denmark, and the 
 Lord Landsdown, soma of y e Earle of Bath, who had ben made a Count 
 of y e Empire last Summer for his service before Vienna. 
 
1685.] 579 
 
 20. A villainous murder was perpetrated by Mr. St. John, eldest 
 son to S r Walter St. John, a worthy gentleman, on a knight of quality*, 
 in a tavern. The offender was sentenc'd and repriev'd. So many 
 horrid murders and duels were committed about this time as were never 
 before heard of in England, which gave much cause of complaint and 
 murmurings. 
 
 1685, 1 Jan. It prov'd so sharp weather, and so long and cruel a 
 frost, that the Thames was frozen acrosse, but the frost was often dis- 
 solv'd, and then froze again. 
 
 11. A young man preached upon 13 St. Luke 5. after the Presby- 
 terian tedious method and repetition. 
 
 24. I din'd at Lord Newport's, who has some excellent pictures, 
 especialy that of S r Tho. Hanmer, by Van Dyke, one of the best he ever 
 painted ; another of our English Dobson's painting ; but above all, 
 Christ in the Virgin s lap by Poussin, an admirable piece, with some- 
 thing of most other famous hands. 
 
 25. Dr. Dove preach'd before y e King. I saw this evening such a 
 scene of profuse gaming, and the King in the midst of his three con- 
 cubines, as I had never before seen. Luxurious dallying and pro- 
 phanenesse. 
 
 27. I din'd at Lord Sunderland's, being invited to heare that cele- 
 brated voice of Mr. Pordage, newly come from Rome ; his singing was 
 after the Venetian recitative, as masterly as could be, and with an ex- 
 cellent voice both treble and basse ; Dr. Walgrave accompanied it with 
 his theorba lute, on which he perform'd beyond imagination, and is 
 doubtlesse one of the greatest masters in Europe on that charming in- 
 strument. Pordage is a priest, as Mr. Bernard Howard told me in 
 private. 
 
 There was in the roome where we din'd, and in his bed-chamber, 
 those incomparable pieces of Columbus, a Flagellation, the Grammar- 
 
 * Sir William Estcourt. It was in a sudden quarrel, and there was doubt whether it was more 
 than manslaughter : but he was advised to plead guilty, and then had a pardon, for which he paid 
 a£l,600. Exactly 100 years before, one of his family was tried for a similar offence, acquitted, but 
 obliged to go abroad, though he was afterwards employed. Manning and Bray's Hist, of Surrey, 
 III. 330. App. cxx. 
 
580 [1685. 
 
 schoole, the Venus and Adonis of Titian ; and of Vandyke's that pic- 
 ture of the late E. of Digby (father of y e Countess of Sunderland), 
 and Earle of Bedford, S r Kenelm Digby, and two Ladys of incompara- 
 ble performance ; besides that of Moses and the burning bush of Bas- 
 sano, and several other pieces of y e best masters. A marble head of 
 M. Brutus, &c. 
 
 28. I was invited to my Lord Arundel of Wardour, (now newly 
 releas'd of his 6 yeares confinement in y e Tower on suspicion of the Plot 
 call'd Oates's Plot,) where after dinner the same Mr. Pordage enter- 
 tain'd us with his voice, that excellent and stupendous artist Sign 1- Jo. 
 Baptist playing to it on the harpsichord. My daughter Mary being 
 with us, she also sung to the greate satisfaction of both the masters, 
 and a world of people of quality present. 
 
 She did so also at my Lord Rochester's the evening following, where 
 we had the French Boy so fam'd for his singing, and indeede he had a 
 delicate voice, and had ben well taught. I also heard Mrs. Packer 
 (daughter to my old friend) sing before his Ma ty and the Duke, pri- 
 vately, that stupendous basse Gosling accompanying her, but hers was 
 so loud as tooke away much of the sweetnesse. Certainly never woman 
 had a stronger or better eare, could she possibly have govern'd it. She 
 would do rarely in a large church among the nunns. 
 
 4 Feb. I went to London, hearing his Ma ty had ben the Monday 
 before (2 Feb.) surpriz'd in his bed-chamber with an apoplectic fit, so 
 that if, by God's providence, Dr. King (that excellent chirurgeon as 
 well as physitian) had not ben accidentally present to let him blood 
 (having his lancet in his pocket) his Ma ty had certainly died that mo- 
 ment, which might have ben of direful consequence, there being nobody 
 else present with the King save this Doctor and one more, as I am 
 assur'd. It was a mark of the extraordinary dexterity, resolution, and 
 presence of mind in the D r , to let him bloud in the very paroxysm, 
 without staying the coming of other physitians, which regularly should 
 have ben don, and for want of which he must have a regular pardon, 
 as they tell me*. This rescu'd his Ma^ for the instant, but it was 
 
 * The Privy Council approved of what he had done, and ordered him ,=£.1000, but which was 
 never paid him. Burnet, II. 1010*. — There are two fine portraits of Dr. King engraved, and in 
 mezzotinto, in which the above instance of his skill and promptitude is noticed. 
 
1685.] 581 
 
 only a short reprieve. He still complain'd, and was relapsing, often 
 fainting, with sometimes epileptic symptoms, till Wednesday, for which 
 he was cupp'd, let bloud in both jugulars, had both vomit and purges, 
 w ch so reliev'd him that on Thursday hopes of recovery were signified in 
 the publiq Gazette, but that day, about noone, the physitians thought 
 him feaveiish. This they seem'd glad of, as being more easily allay'd 
 and methodically dealt with than his former fits ; so as they prescrib'd 
 the famous Jesuits powder: but it made him worse, and some very 
 able Doctors who were present did not think it a fever, but the effect 
 of his frequent bleeding and other sharp operations us'd by them about 
 his head, so that probably the powder might stop the circulation, and 
 renew his former fits, which now made him very weake. Thus he 
 pass'd Thursday night with greate difficulty, when complaining of a 
 paine in his side, they drew 12 ounces more of bloud from him ; this 
 was by 6 in the morning on Friday, and it gave him reliefe, but it did 
 not continue, for being now in much paine, and strugling for breath, 
 he lay dozing, and after some conflicts, the physitians despairing of 
 him, he gave up the ghost at halfe an houre after eleven in the morning, 
 being the 6 of February 1685, in the 36th yeare of his reigne, and 54th 
 of his age. 
 
 Prayers were solemnly made in all the Churches, especialy in both y c 
 Court Chapells, where the Chaplaines reliev'd one another every halfe 
 quarter of an houre from the time he began to be in danger till he ex- 
 pir'd, according to the forme prescrib'd in the Church Offices. Those 
 who assisted his Majesty's devotions were, the Abp. of Canterbury, the 
 Bishops of London, Durham, and Ely, but more especialy Dr. Ken, 
 the Bp. of Bath and Wells*. It is sayd they exceedingly urg'd the 
 
 * The account given of this by King James II. is, that when the King's life was wholly de- 
 spaired of, and it was time to prepare for another world, two Bishops came to do their function, 
 who reading the prayers appointed in the Common Prayer Book on that occasion, when they 
 came to the place where usually they exhort a sick person to make a confession of his sins, the 
 Bishop of Baih and Wells, who was one of them, advertized him, It was not of ohligation ; and 
 after a short exhortation asked him, if he were sorry for his sins ? which the King saying he was, 
 the Bishop pronounced the absolution, and then asked him if he pleased to receive the Sacrament ? 
 to which the King made no reply, and being pressed by the Bi*hop several times, gave no other 
 answer but that it wartime enough, or that he would think of it. King James says that he stood 
 
582 
 
 [168 5 . 
 
 receiving the Holy Sacrament, but his Ma*y told them he would con- 
 sider of it, which he did so long 'till it was too late. Others whis- 
 per'd that the Bishops and Lords, except the Earles of Bath and 
 Feversham, being order'd to withdraw the night before, Hurlston, the 
 Priest, had presumed to administer the Popish Offices. He gave his 
 breeches and keys to y e Duke, who was almost continually kneeling by 
 his bed-side, and in teares. He also recommended to him the care of 
 his natural children, all except the Duke of Monmouth, now in Hol- 
 land, and in his displeasure. He intreated the Queene to pardon him 
 (not without cause) ; who a little before had sent a Bishop to excuse 
 her not more frequently visiting him, in reguard of her excessive griefe, 
 and withall, that his Ma ty would forgive it if at any time she had 
 offended him. He spake to y e Duke to be kind to the Dutchesse of 
 Cleaveland, and especialy Portsmouth, and that Nelly might not starve. 
 
 Thus died King Charles II. of a vigorous and robust constitution, 
 and in all appearance promising a long life. He was a Prince of many 
 virtues, and many greate imperfections ; debonaire, easy of accesse, 
 not bloudy nor cruel ; his countenance fierce, his voice greate, proper 
 of person, every motion became him ; a lover of the sea, and skilfull in 
 shipping ; not affecting other studies, yet he had a laboratory, and 
 knew of many empyrical medicines, and the easier mechanical mathe- 
 matics; he lov'd planting and building, and brought in a politer way 
 of living, which pass'd to luxury and intolerable expence. He had a 
 particular talent in telling a story, and facetious passages, of which he 
 had innumerable ; this made some buffoons and vitious wretches too 
 presumptuous and familiar, not worthy the favour they abus'd. He 
 
 all the while by the bed-side, and seeing the King would not receive the Sacrament from them, 
 and knowing his sentiments, he desired the company to stand a little from the bed, and then 
 asked the King whether he should send for a Priest, to which the King replied, " For God's sake, 
 brother, do, and lose no time." The Duke said he would bring one to him ; but none could be 
 found except father Huddleston, who had been so assistant in the King's escape from Worcester ; 
 he was brought up by a back staircase, and the company "were desired to withdraw, but he 
 (the Duke of York) not thinking fit that he should be left alone with the King, desired the 
 Earl of Bath, a Lord of the Bedchamber, and the Earl of Feversham, Captain of the Guard, should 
 stay ; the rest being gone, father Huddleston was introduced, and administered the Sacrament. 
 Life of James II. p. 747. 
 
1685.] 
 
 583 
 
 tooke delight in having a number of little spaniels follow him and lie 
 in his bed-chamber, where he often suffer'd the bitches to puppy and 
 give suck, which render' d it very offensive, and indeede made the whole 
 Court nasty and stinking. He would doubtlesse have ben an excellent 
 Prince, had he ben less addicted to women, who made him uneasy, 
 and allways in want to supply their un measurable profusion, to y e 
 detriment of many indigent persons who had signaly serv'd both him 
 and his father. He frequently and easily chang'd favorites, to his 
 greate prejudice. As to other publiq transactions and unhappy mis- 
 carriages, 'tis not here I intend to number them ; but certainly never 
 had King more glorious opportunities to have made himselfe, his 
 people, and all Europe happy, and prevented innumerable mischeifs, 
 had not his too easy nature resign'd him to be manag'd by crafty men, 
 and some abandon'd and profane wretches who corrupted his otherwise 
 sufficient parts, disciplin'd as he had ben by many afflictions during his 
 banishment, which gave him much experience and knowledge of men 
 and things ; but those wicked creatures took him off from all applica- 
 tion becoming so greate a King. The history of his reigne will cer- 
 tainely be the most wonderfull for the variety of matter and accidents, 
 above any extant in former ages : the sad tragical death of his father, 
 his banishment and hardships, his miraculous restauration, conspira- 
 cies against him, parliaments, wars, plagues, fires, comets, revolutions 
 abroad happening in his time, with a thousand other particulars. He 
 was ever kind to me, and very gracious upon all occasions, and there- 
 fore I cannot, without ingratitude, but deplore his losse, which for 
 many respects as well as duty I do with all my soul. 
 
 His Majesty being dead, the Duke, now K. James II. went im- 
 mediately to Council, and before entering into any businesse, pas- 
 sionately declaring his sorrow, told their Lordships that since the suc- 
 cession had fallen to him, he would endeavour to follow the example of 
 his predecessor in his clemency and tendernesse to his people ; that, 
 however he had ben misrepresented as affecting arbitrary power, they 
 should find the contrary, for that the Laws of England had made y e 
 King as greate a monarch as he could desire ; that he would endeavor 
 to maintain the Government both in Church and State, as by Law 
 
584 [1685. 
 
 establish'd, its principles being so firme for monarchy, and the mem- 
 bers of it shewing themselves so good and loyal subjects* ; and that as 
 he would never depart from the just rights and prerogatives of y e 
 Crown, so would he never invade any man's property ; but as he had 
 often adventur'd his life in defence of the Nation, so he would still 
 proceede, and preserve it in all its lawful rights and liberties. 
 
 This being the substance of what he said, the Lords desir'd it might 
 be publish'd, as containing matter of greate satisfaction to a jealous 
 people upon this change, which his Ma^ consented to. Then were the 
 Counsel sworn, and a Proclamation order'd to be publish'd, that all 
 Officers should continue in their stations, that there might be no failure 
 of public justice, till his further pleasure should be known. Then the 
 
 * This is the substance and very nearly in the words given by King James II. in his MS. printed 
 in his Life ; but in that MS. are some words which Mr. Evelyn has omitted, viz. after speaking of 
 the Members of the Church of England as good and loyal subjects, the King adds, and therefore 
 I shall always take care to defend and support it. The King then goes on to say, that being de- 
 sired by some present to allow copies to be taken, he said he had not committed it to writing j on 
 which Mr. Finch [then Solicitor General, afterwards Earl of Aylesford] replied, that what his 
 Majesty had said had made so deep an impression on him, that he believed he could repeat the 
 very words, and if his Majesty would permit him, he would write them down; which the King 
 agreeing to, he went to a table and wrote them down, and this being shewn to the King, he ap- 
 proved of it, and it was immediately published. 
 
 The King then goes on to say ; No one can wonder that Mr. Finch should word the speech as 
 strong as he could in favour of the Established Religion, nor that the King in such a hurry 
 should pass it over without reflection ; for though his Majesty intended to promise both security 
 to their religion and protection to their persons, he was afterwards convinced it had been better 
 expressed by assuring them he never would endeavour to alter the established Religion, rather 
 than that he would endeavour to preserve it, and that he would rather support and defend the 
 professors of it, rather than the Religion itself; they could not expect he should make a con- 
 science of supporting what in his conscience he thought erroneous; his engaging not to molest 
 the professors of it, nor to deprive them or their successors of any spiritual dignity, revenue, or 
 employment, but to suffer the ecclesiastical affairs to go on in the track they were in, was all 
 they could wish or desire from a Prince of a different persuasion ; but having once approved that 
 way of expressing it which Mr. Finch had made choice of, he thought it necessary not to vary 
 from it in the declarations or speeches he made afterwards, not doubting but the world would 
 
 understand it in the meaning he intended. 'Tis true afterwards it was pretended he kept not 
 
 • up to this engagement, but had they deviated no further from the duty and allegiance which both 
 nature and repeated oaths obliged them to, than he did from his wordf, they had still remained 
 as happy a people as they really were during his short reign in England. Vol. II. 435. 
 
 ■f- The words in italics were afterwards interlined by the son of King James the Second. Edit. 
 
1685.] 
 
 585 
 
 King rose, the Lords accompanying him to his bed-chamber, where 
 whilst he repos'd himselfe, tired indeede as he was with griefe and 
 watching, they return'd againe into the Council-chamber to take order 
 for the proclaiming his Ma tv , which (after same debate) they consented 
 should be in the very forme his grandfather K. James I. was, after y c 
 death of Queene Elizabeth ; as likewise that the Lords, &c. should 
 procecde in their coaches thro' the Citty for the more solemnity of it. 
 Upon this was I, and severall other Gentlemen waiting in the Privy - 
 gallerie, admitted into y e Council-chamber to be witnesse of what was 
 resolv'd on. Thence with the Lords, the Lord Marshall and Heraulds, 
 and other Crowne Officers being ready, we first went to White-hall- 
 gate, where the Lords stood on foote bare-headed, whilst the Herauld 
 proclaim'd his Majesty's title to the Imperial Crowne and Succession 
 according to y e forme, the trumpets and kettle-drums having first 
 sounded 3 times, which ended with the people's acclamations. Then a 
 Herauld call'd the Lords' coaches according to rank, myselfe accompa- 
 nying the solemnity in my Lord Cornwallis's coach, first to Temple 
 Barr, where the Lord Maior and his brethren met us on horseback, in 
 all theire formalities, and proclaim'd the King ; hence to the Exchange 
 in Cornhill, and so we return'd in the order we set forth. Being come 
 to White-hall, we all went and kiss'd the King and Queenes hands. 
 He had ben on y e bed, but was now risen and in his undresse. The 
 Queene was in bed in her appartment, but put forth her hand, seeming 
 to be much afflicted, as I believe she was, having deported herselfe so 
 decently upon all occasions since she came into England, which made 
 her universally belov'd. 
 
 Thus concluded this sad and not joy full day. 
 
 I can never forget the inexpressible luxury and prophanenesse, 
 gaming and all dissoluteness, and as it were total forgetfullnesse of 
 God (it being Sunday evening) which this day se'nnight I was wit- 
 nesse of, the King sitting and toying with his concubines, Portsmouth, 
 Cleaveland, and Mazarine, &c. a French boy singing love songs, in that 
 glorious gallery, whilst about 20 of the greate courtiers and other 
 dissolute persons were at Basset round a large table, a bank of at 
 least 2000 in gold before them, upon which two gentlemen who were 
 
 vol. i. 4 F 
 
586 L lf > 8 5- 
 
 with me made reflexions with astonishment. Six days after was all 
 in the dust ! 
 
 It was enjoyn'd that those who put on mourning should wear it as 
 tor a father, in y e most solemn manner. 
 
 10 Feh. Being sent to by the Sheriff of the County to appeare and 
 assist in proclayming the King, I went the next day to Bromely, where 
 I met the Sheriff and the Commander of the Kentish Troop, with an 
 appearance, I suppose, of above 500 horse, and innumerable people, 
 two of his Ma**' 5 trumpets and a Serjeant with other officers, who having 
 drawn up the horse in a large field neere the towne, march'd thence, 
 with swords drawne, to the market-place, where making a ring, after 
 sound of trumpets and silence made, the High Sheriff read the pro- 
 claiming titles to his Bailiffe, who repeated them aloud, and then after 
 many shouts of the people, his Ma tv ' s health being drunk in a flint 
 glasse of a yard long, by the Sheriff, Commander, Officers and cheife 
 Gentlemen, they all dispers'd, and I return'd. 
 
 13. I pass'd a fine on selling of Honson Grange in Staffordshire, 
 being about g£20 per ami., which lying so greate a distance I thought 
 fit to part with it to one Burton, a farmer there. It came to me as part 
 of my daughter-in-law's portion, this being but a fourth part of what 
 was divided betweene y e mother and three sisters. 
 
 14. The King was this night very obscurely buried* in a vault 
 under Hen. 7' h ' s Chapell at Westminster, without any manner of pomp, 
 and soone forgotten after all this vanity, and the face of the whole 
 Court was exceedingly chang'd into a more solemn and moral be- 
 haviour ; the new King affecting neither prophanenesse nor buffoonery. 
 
 * The funeral could not be performed with so great solemnity as some persons expected, 
 because his late Majesty dying in, and his present Majesty professing, a different Religion from 
 that of his people, it had been a difficult matter to reconcile the greater ceremonies which must 
 have been performed according to the Rites of the Church of England, with the obligation of not 
 communicating with it in spiritual things ; to avoid, therefore, either disputes on one hand, or 
 scandal on the other, it was thought more prudent to do it in a more private manner, though at 
 the same time there was no circumstance of state and pomp omitted, which possibly could be 
 allowed of. All the Privy Council, all the household, and all the Lords about towne attended at 
 the funeral. Life of King James II. vol. II. p. 6*. 
 
587 
 
 All the greate Officers broke their staves over the grave, according 
 to form. 
 
 15. Dr. Tenisori preach'd to the Household. The second sermon 
 should have hen before the King; but he, to the greate griefe of his 
 subjects, did now for the first time go to masse publickly in y e little 
 Oratorie at the Duke's lodgings, the doors being set wide open. 
 
 16. I din'd at S' Rob 1 Howard's, Auditor of the Exchequer, a gen- 
 tleman pretending to all manner of arts and sciences, for which he 
 had ben the subject of Comedy, under the name of Sir Positive ; not 
 ill-natur'd, but insufferably boasting. He was sonn to the late Earl of 
 Berkshire. 
 
 17. This morning his Ma tv restor'd the staffe and key to Lord 
 Arlington, Chamberlaine ; to Mr. Savell, Vice-chamberlaine ; to Lords 
 Newport and Mainard, Treasurer and Comptroler of the Household ; 
 Lord Godolphin made Chamberlaine to y e Queene ; Lord Peterborow 
 Groome of y e Stole in place of the Earle of Bath ; the Treasurer's staff 
 to the Earle of Rochester; and his brother the Earle of Clarendon 
 Lord Privie Seale in place of the Marquis of Halifax, who was made 
 President of the Council ; the Secretarys of State remaining as before. 
 
 19. The Lord Treasurer and v e other new Officers were sworne at 
 the Chancery Barr and the Exchequer. 
 
 The late King having the revenue of Excise, Costoms, and other late 
 duties granted for his life only, they were now farmed and lett to 
 severall persons, upon an opinion that the late King might lett them 
 for three yeares after his decease ; some of the old Commissioners 
 refus'd to act. The lease was made but the day before the King died*; 
 the major part of the Judges (but as some think not the best Lawyers) 
 pronounc'd it legal, but four dissented. 
 
 The Clerk of the Closet had shut up the late King's private Oratorie 
 next the Privy-chamber above, but the King caus'd it to be open'd 
 againe, and that prayers should be said as formerly. 
 
 * King James, in his Life, makes no mention of this lease, but only says he continued to collect 
 them, which conduct was not blamed ; but on the contrary, he was thanked for it in an address 
 from the Middle Temple, penned by Sir Bartholomew Shore, and presented by Sir Humphrey 
 Mackworth, carrying great authority with it, nor did the Parliament rind fault. Vol. U. pp. 16, 17. 
 
588 [1685- 
 
 22. Several most useful Tracts against Dissenters, Papists, and 
 Fanatics, and Resolutions of Cases, were now published by the London 
 Divines. 
 
 4 Mar. Ash-Wednesday ; after evening prayers 1 went to London. 
 5. To my griefe I saw the new pulpit set up in the Popish Oratorie 
 at White-hall for the Lent preaching, masse being publicly said, and 
 the Romanists swarming at Court with greater confidence than had ever 
 ben seene in England since the Reformation, so as every body grew 
 jealous to what this would tend. 
 
 A Parliament was now summon'd, and greate industry us'd to 
 obtaine elections which might promote the Court interest, most of 
 the Corporations being now by their new Charters impower'd to make 
 what returnes of members they pleas'd. 
 
 There came over divers envoyes and greate persons to condole the 
 death of the late King, who were receiv'd by the Queene Dowager on 
 a bed of mourning, the whole chamber, cieling and floore hung with 
 black, and tapers were lighted, so as nothing could be more lugubrous 
 and solemne. The Queene Consort sat out under a state on a black 
 foot-cloth, to entertaine the circle (as the Queene us'd to do), and that 
 very decently. 
 
 6\ Lent Preachers continu'd as formerly in the Royal Chapell. 
 
 7- My daughter Mary was taken with the small pox, and there 
 soon was found no hope of her recovery. A very greate affliction to 
 me : but God's holy will be done. 
 
 10. She receiv'd the blessed Sacrament; after which, disposing 
 herselfe to suffer what God should determine to inflict, she bore the 
 remainder of her sicknesse with extraordinary patience and piety, and 
 more than ordinary resignation and blessed frame of mind. She died 
 the 14th, to our unspeakable sorrow and affliction, and not to ours onely, 
 but that of all who knew her, who were many of the best quality, 
 greatest and most virtuous persons. The justnesse of her stature, person, 
 comeliness of countenance, gracefullnesse of motion, unaffected tho' 
 more than ordinary beautifull, were the least of her ornaments compared 
 with those of her mind. Of early piety, singularly religious, spending 
 a part of every day in private devotion, reading, and other vertuous exer- 
 
1685.] 589 
 
 cises ; she had collected and written out many of the most usefull and 
 judicious periods of the books she read in a kind of common-place, as 
 out of Dr. Hammond on the New Testament, and most of the best 
 practical treatises. She had read and digested a considerable deale of 
 history and of places. The French tongue was as familiar to her as 
 English ; she understood Italian, and was able to render a laudable 
 account of what she read and observed, to which assisted a most faithful 
 memory and discernment ; and she did make very prudent and discreete 
 reflexions upon what she had observed of the conversations among 
 which she had at any time ben, which being continualy of persons of 
 the best quality, she thereby improved. She had an excellent voice, to 
 which she play'd a thorough-bass on the harpsichord, in both which she 
 arived to that perfection, that of the schollars of those two famous mas- 
 ters Signors Pietro and Bartholomeo she was esteem'd the best ; for the 
 sweetnesse of her voice and management of it added such an agreeable- 
 nesse to her countenance, without any constraint or concerne, that when 
 she sung, it was as charming to the eye as to the eare ; this I rather note, 
 because it was a universal remarke, and for which so many noble and 
 judicious persons in musiq desired to heare her, the last being at Lord 
 Arundel's of Wardour (see p. 543). What shall I say, or rather not say, 
 of the cheerefullness and agreeablenesse of her humour ? condescend- 
 ing to the meanest servant in the family, or others, she still kept up 
 respect, without the least pride. She would often reade to them, exa- 
 mine, instruct, and pray with them if they were sick, so as she was ex- 
 ceedingly beloved of every body. Piety was so prevalent an ingredient in 
 her constitution (as I may say) that even amongst equals and superiors 
 she no sooner became intimately acquainted, but she would endeavour 
 to improve them, by insinuating something of religious, and that tended 
 to brina; them to a love of devotion ; she had one or two confidents 
 with whom she used to passe whole dayes in fasting, reading, and 
 prayers, especialy before the monethly communion and other solemn 
 occasions. She abhorr'd flattery, and tho' she had aboundance of vvitt, 
 the raillery was so innocent and ingenuous that it was most agreeable ; 
 she sometimes would see a play, but since the stage grew licentious, 
 express'd herselfe weary of them, and the time spent at the theater was 
 
590 [1685- 
 
 an unaccountable vanity. She never play'd at cards without extreame 
 importunity and for the company, but this was so very seldome that I 
 cannot number it among anv thing she could name a fault. No one could 
 read prose or verse better or with more judgment ; and as she read, so 
 she writ, not only must correct orthography, with that maturitie of 
 judgment and exactnesse of the periods, choice of expressions, and fa- 
 miliarity of stile, that some letters of hers have astonish'd me and others 
 
 J 7 
 
 to whom she has occasionally written. She had a talent of rehersing 
 any comical part or poeme, as to them she might be decently free with 
 was more pleasing than heard on y e theater; she daunc'd with the 
 greatest grace I had ever seene, and so would her master sav, who was 
 Mons r Isaac; but she seldome shew'd that perfection, save in the 
 gracefullnesse of her carriage, which was with an aire of spritely mo- 
 destie not easily to be described. Nothing affected, but natural and 
 easy as well in her deportment as in her discourse, which was always 
 materiall, not trifling, and to which the extraordinary sweetnesse of 
 her tone, even in familiar speaking, was very charming Nothing was 
 so pretty as her descending to play with little children, whom she would 
 caresse and humour with greate delight. But she most affected to be 
 with grave and sober men, of whom she might learne something, and 
 improve herselfe. I have ben assisted by her in reading and praying 
 by me; comprehensive of uncommon notions, curious of knowing every 
 thing to some excesse, had I not sometimes repressed it. Nothing was 
 so dehghtfull to her as to go into my study, where she would willingly 
 have spent whole dayes, for as I sayd she had read aboundance of his- 
 tory, and all the best poets, even Terence, Plautus, Homer, Virgil, 
 Horace, Ovid ; all the best romances and modern poemes ; she could 
 compose happily, and put in pretty symbols, as in the Mundus Mulie- 
 bris*, wherein is an enumeration of the immense variety of the modes 
 and ornaments belonging to the sex ; but all these are vaine trifles to 
 the virtues which adorn'd her soule ; she was sincerely religious, most 
 dutifull to her parents, whom she lov'd with an affection temper'd with 
 greate esteeme, so as we were easy and free, and never were so well 
 
 * A poem of Mr. Evelyn's. 
 
1685-J 591 
 
 pleas'd as when she was with us, nor needed we other conversation ; 
 she was kind to her sisters, and was still improving them by her con- 
 stant course of piety. Oh deare, sweete, and desireable child, how shall 
 I part with all this goodness and virtue without the hitternesse of sor- 
 row and reluctancy of a tender parent ! Thy affection, duty, and love 
 to me was that of a friend as well as a child. Nor lesse deare to thy 
 mother, whose example and tender care of thee was unparellel'd, nor was 
 thy returne to her lesse conspicuous ; Oh ! how she mourns thy loss ! 
 how desolate hast thou left us ! To the grave shall we both carry thy 
 memory ! 
 
 God alone (in whose bosom thou art at rest and happy !) give us to 
 resigne thee and all our contentments (for thou indeede wert all in this 
 world) to his blessed pleasure ! Let him be glorified by our submission, 
 and give us grace to blesse him for the graces he implanted in thee, thy 
 virtuous life, pious and holy death, which is indeede the onely comfort 
 of our soules, hastening thro' the infinite love and mercy of the Lord 
 Jesus to be shortly with thee, deare child, and with thee and those 
 blessed saints like thee, glorifye the Redeemer of the world to all eter- 
 nity ! Amen ! 
 
 It was in the 19th year of her age that this sicknesse happen'd to her. 
 An accident contributed to this disease ; she had an apprehension of it 
 in particular, and which struck her but two days before she came home, 
 by an imprudent gentlewoman whom she went with Lady Falkland 
 to visite, who after they had ben a good while in the house, told them 
 she had a servant sick of the small pox (who indeede died the next 
 day) ; this my poore child acknowledg'd made an impression on her 
 spirits. There were foure gentlemen of quality offering to treate with 
 me about marriage, and I freely gave her her owne choice, knowing 
 her discretion. She showed great indifference to marrying at all, for 
 truly, says she to her mother (the other day), were I assur'd of your 
 life and my deare father's, never would I part from you ; I love you and 
 this home, where we serve God, above all things, nor ever shall 1 be so 
 happy ; I know and consider the vicissitudes of the world, 1 have some 
 experience of its vanities, and but for decency more than inclination, 
 and that you judge it expedient for me, I would not change my eondi- 
 
592 
 
 [1685- 
 
 tion, but rather add the fortune you designe me to my sisters, and 
 keepe up the reputation of our family. This was so discreetly and sin- 
 cerely utter'd that it could not but proceede from an extraordinary child, 
 and one who lov'd her parents beyond example. 
 
 At London she tooke this fatal disease, and the occasion of her being 
 there was this ; my Lord Viscount Falkland's Lady having ben our 
 neighbour (as he was Treasurer of the Navy), she tooke so greate an 
 affection to my daughter, that when they went back in the autumn to 
 the Citty, nothing would satisfie their incessant importunity but letting 
 her accompany my Lady, and staying sometime with her; it was with 
 y e greatest reluctance I complied. Whilst she was there, my Lord 
 being musical, when I saw my Lady would not part with her till 
 Christmas, I was not unwilling she should improve the opporunity of 
 learning of Sign' Pietro, who had an admirable way both of composure 
 and teaching. It was the end of February before I could prevail with 
 my Lady to part with her ; but my Lord going into Oxfordshire to stand 
 for Knight of the Shire there, she express'd her wish to come home, 
 being tir'd of y e vain and empty conversation of the towne, y e theatres, 
 the court, and trifling visites w ch consum'd so much precious time, and 
 made her sometimes misse of that regular course of piety that gave her 
 y e greatest satisfaction. She was weary of this life, and I think went 
 not thrice to Court all this time, except when her mother or I carried 
 her. She did not affect shewing herselfe, she knew y e Court well, 
 and pass'd one summer in it at Windsor with Lady Tuke one of the 
 Queene's women of the bed chamber (a most virtuous relation of hers): 
 she was not fond of that glittering scene, now become abominably li- 
 centious, though there was a designe of Lady Rochester and Lady Cla- 
 rendon to have made her a maid of honour to the Queene as soon as 
 there was a vacancy. But this she did not set her heart upon, nor in- 
 deede on any thing so much as the service of God, a quiet and regular 
 life, and how she might improve herselfe in the most necessary accom- 
 plishments, and to w ch she was ariv'd at so greate a measure. 
 
 This is y e little history and imperfect character of my deare child, 
 whose piety, virtue, and incomparable endowments deserve a monu- 
 ment more durable than brasse and marble. Precious is the memorial 
 
593 
 
 of the just. Much I could enlarge on every period of this hasty ac- 
 count, but that I ease and discharge my overcoming passion for the 
 present, so many things worthy an excellent Christian and dutifull 
 child crowding upon me. Never can I say enough, oh deare, my deare 
 child, whose memory is so precious to me ! 
 
 This deare child was born at Wotton in the same house and chamber 
 in which I first drew my breath, my wife having retir'd to my brother 
 there in the great sicknesse that yeare upon the first of that moneth, and 
 neere the very houre that I was borne, upon the last : viz. October. 
 
 16 March. She was interr'd in the South-east end of the Church at 
 Deptford, neere her grandmother and severall of my younger children 
 and relations. My desire was she should have ben carried and layed 
 among my own parents and relations at Wotton, where I desire to be 
 interr'd myselfe, when God shall call me out of this uncertaine transi- 
 tory life, but some circumstances did not permit it. Our vicar Dr. 
 Holden preach'd her funeral sermon on 1 Phil. 21. "For to me to 
 live is Christ and to die is gaine," upon which he made an apposite 
 discourse, as those who heard it assur'd me (for griefe suffer'd me not 
 to be present), concluding with a modest recital of her many virtues 
 and signal piety, so as to draw both teares and admiration from the 
 hearers. I was not altogether unwilling that something of this sort 
 should be spoken, for the edification and encouragement of other young 
 people. 
 
 Divers noble persons honour d her funeral, some in person, others 
 sending their coaches, of w cb there were six or seven with six horses, 
 viz. the Countesse of Sunderland, Earle of Clarendon, Lord Godol- 
 phin, S r Stephen Fox, S r W m Godolphin, Viscount Falkland, and 
 others. There were distributed amongst her friends about 60 rings. 
 
 Thus liv'd, died, and was buried the joy of my life, and ornament 
 of her sex and of my poore family ! God Almighty of his infinite 
 mercy grant me the grace thankfully to resigne myselfe and all I have, 
 or had, to his Divine pleasure, and in his good time, restoring health 
 and comfort to my family : M teach me so to number my days that I 
 may apply my heart to wisdom," be prepar'd for my dissolution, and 
 that into the hands of my blessed Saviour I may recommend my 
 spirit ! Amen ! 
 
 VOL. I. 1 C. 
 
594 [lGSs. 
 
 On looking into her closet, it is incredible what a number of collec- 
 tions she had made from historians, poetes, travellers, &c. but above all 
 devotions, contemplations, and resolutions on these contemplations ) 
 found under her hand in a booke most methodiealy dispos'd ; prayers, 
 meditations, and devotions on particular occasions, with many pretty 
 letters to her confidants ; one to a divine (not nam'd) to whom she 
 writes that he would be her ghostly father, and would not despise her 
 for her many errors and the imperfections of her youth, but beg of God 
 to give her courage to acquaint him with all her faults, imploring his 
 assistance and spiritual directions. I well remember she had often de- 
 sir'd me to recommend her to such a person, but I did not think fit 
 to do it as yet, seeing her apt to be scrupulous, and knowing the great 
 innocency and integrity of her life. 
 
 It is astonishing how one who had acquired such substantial and 
 practical knowledge in other ornamental parts of education, especialy 
 music both vocal and instrumental, in dauncing, paying and receiving 
 visites, and necessary conversation, could accomplish halfe of what she 
 has left ; but as she never affected play or cards, which consume a 
 world of precious time, so she was in continual exercise, which yet 
 abated nothing of her most agreeable conversation. But she was a 
 little miracle while she liv'd, and so she died ! 
 
 26 Mar. I was invited to the funerall of Capt. Gunman, that excel- 
 lent pilot and seaman, who had behav'd himselfe so valiantly in the 
 Dutch warr. He died of a gangrene, occasion'd by his fall from the 
 pier of Calais. This was the Captain of the yatcht carrying the Duke 
 (now King) to Scotland, and was accused for not giving timely warn- 
 ing when she split on the sands, where so many perish'd ; but I am 
 most confident he was no ways guilty, either of negligence or designe, 
 as he made appeare not onely at the examination of the matter of fact, 
 but in the Vindication he shew'd me, and which must needes give any 
 man of reason satisfaction. He was a sober, frugal, cheerfull, and 
 temperate man ; we have few such seamen left. 
 
 8 April. Being now somewhat compos'd after my greate affliction, 
 I went to London to hear Dr. Tenison (it being on a Wednesday in 
 Lent) at White-hall. I observ'd that tho' the King was not in his 
 
1685.] 595 
 
 seate above in the chapell, the Doctor made his three congees, which 
 they were not us'd to do when the late King was absent, making then 
 one bowing onely. I ask'd the reason ; it was sayd he had a special 
 order so to do. The Princesse of Denmark was in the King's Closet, 
 but sat on the left hand of the chaire, the Clearke of the Closet stand- 
 ing by His Ma ,ys chaire, as if he had ben present. 
 
 I met the Queene Dowager going now first from White-hall to dwell 
 at Somerset-house. 
 
 This day my brother of Wotton and Mr. Onslow were candidates for 
 Surrey against S r Adam Brown and my cousin S r Edw d Evelyn, and 
 were circumvented in their election by a trick of the Sheriff's* taking 
 advantage of my brother's party going out of the small village of Lea- 
 therhead to seek shelter and lodging, the afternoone being tempestuous, 
 proceeding to the Election when they were gon ; they expecting the 
 next morning ; whereas before and then they exceeded the other party 
 by many hundreds, as I am assur'd. The Duke of Norfolk led Sr 
 Edw. Evelyn's and S r Adam Brown's party. For this Parliament, 
 very meane and slight persons (some of them gentlemen's servants, 
 clearkes, and persons neither of reputation nor interest) were set up, 
 but the country would choose my brother whether he would or no, and 
 he miss'd it by the trick above mention'd. S p Adam Brown was so 
 deafe that he could not heare one word. S r Edw. Evelyn f was an ho- 
 nest gent n much in favour with his Majesty. 
 
 10. I went early to White-hall to heare Dr. Tillotson, Deane of 
 Canterbury, preaching on 9 Eccles. 18. I returned in the evening, and 
 visited Lady Tuke, and found with her Sir Geo. Wakeman, the physi- 
 tian, whom I had seene tried and acquitted J, amongst the plotters for 
 poisoning the late King, on the accusation of the famous Oates ; and 
 surely I believ'd him guiltlesse. 
 
 * Mr. Samuel Lewen. His name does not appear in the History of Surrey amongst the land- 
 owners, but it is there stated that in 1709 Sir William Lewen purchased the rectory of Ewel, and 
 that he was Lord Mayor of London in 1717- Vol. I. 470. 
 
 f His seat was at Long Ditton, near Kingston, which town had surrendered their charter to 
 King Charles II. about a month before his death. King James appointed Sir Edward Evelyn one 
 of the new Corporation. J P. 509. 
 
5.96 
 
 [1685. 
 
 14. According to my costome I went to London to passe the holy 
 weeke. 
 
 17. Good Friday. Dr. Tenison preached at the new church at St. 
 James's, on 1 Cor. 16, 22, upon the infinite love of God to us, which 
 he illustrated in many instances. The holy Sacrament followed, at 
 which I participated. The Lord make me thankfull. In the after- 
 noone Dr. Sprat, Bp. of Rochester, preached in Whitehall Chapell, the 
 auditory very full of Lords, the two Archbishops, and many others, 
 now drawne to towne upon the occasion of the Coronation and ensuing 
 Parliament. I supp'd with the Countesse of Sunderland and Lord 
 Godolphin, and return'd home. 
 
 23. Was the Coronation of the King and Queene. The solemnity 
 was magnificent, as is set forth in print. The Bp. of Ely preach'd ; 
 but, to the greate sorrow of the people, no Sacrament, as ought to have 
 ben. However the King begins his reigne with greate expectations, 
 and hopes of much reformation as to the late vices and prophanenesse 
 both of Court and Country. Having ben present at the late King's 
 Coronation, I was not ambitious of seeing this ceremonie. 
 
 3 May. A young man preach'd, going chaplain with Sir Jo. Wi- 
 burn, Governor of Bombay in the East Indies. 
 
 7. I was in Westm r Hall when Oates, who had made such a stir 
 in the kingdom, on his revealing a Plot of the Papists, and alarm'd se- 
 veral Parliaments, and had occasioned the execution of divers Priests, 
 Noblemen*, &c. was tried for perjurie at the King's Bench ; but being 
 very tedious, I did not endeavour to see the issue, considering that it 
 would be published. Aboundance of Roman Catholics were in the Hall 
 in expectation of the most gratefull conviction and ruine of a person 
 who had ben so obnoxious to them, and, as I verily believe, had don 
 much mischeife and greate injury to several by his violent and ill- 
 grounded proceedings ; whilst he was at first so unreasonably blowne 
 up and encouraged, that his insolence was no longer suflFerable. 
 
 Mr. Roger L'Estrange (a gentleman whom I had long known, and 
 a person of excellent parts abating some affectations) appearing first 
 
1G85.] 597 
 
 against the Dissenters in several Tracts, had now for some yeares 
 turn'd his style against those whom (by way of hateful distinction) they 
 call'd Whiggs and Trimmers, under the title of Observator, which 
 came out 3 or 4 days every weeke, in which sheets, under pretence to 
 serve the Church of England, he gave suspicion of gratifying another 
 party, by several passages which rather kept up animosities than ap- 
 peas'd them, especialy now that nobody gave the least occasion*. 
 
 10. The Scots valueing themselves exceedingly to have ben y e first 
 Parliament call'd by his Ma ty , gave the Excise and Costomes to him and 
 his successors for ever; y e D. of Queensberry making eloquent speeches, 
 and especialy minding them of a speedy suppression of those late despe- 
 rate Field-Conventiclers who had done such unheard-of assassinations. 
 In the meane time elections for the ensueing Parliament in England 
 were thought to be very indirectly carried on in most places. God 
 grant a better issue of it than some expect ! 
 
 16. Oates was sentenced to be whipped and pilloried with the 
 utmost severity. 
 
 21 May. I din'd at my Lord Privy Seale's with S r W m Dugdale, 
 Garter King at Armes, author of the Monasticon and other learned 
 workes : he told me he was 82 yeares of age, and had his sight and 
 memory perfect f. There was shewn a draught of y e exact shape and 
 dimensions of the Crowne the Queene had been crown'd withall, 
 together with the jewells and pearles ; their weight and value, w ,h 
 amounted to ^.100,658 sterling, attested at the foote of the paper by 
 the jeweller and goldsmith who sett them. 
 
 22. In the morning I went with a French gentleman, and my 
 Lord Privy Seale, to the House of Lords, where we were plac'd by his 
 lordship next the Bar, just below y e Bishops, very commodiously both 
 
 * In the first Dutch war, whilst Mr. Evelyn was one of the Commissioners for sick and 
 wounded, Mr. L'Estrangein his Gazette mentioned the barbarous usage of the Dutch prisoners ef 
 war; Mr. Evelyn wrote him a very spirited letter, desiring that the Dutch Ambassador (who was 
 then in England) and his friends would visit the prisoners, and examine their provisions ; and he 
 desired Mr. L'Estrange would publish his vindication in his next number. 
 
 t Sir Isaac Heard, the present Garter King at Arms, is about the same age, and in equal pos- 
 session of his faculties (1816.) 
 
598 [1685". 
 
 for hearing and seeing. After a short space came in y" Queene and 
 Princesse of Denmark, and stood next above the Archbishops, at the 
 side of the House on the right hand of the throne. In the interim 
 divers of the Lords, who had not finish'd before, tooke the Test and 
 usual Oathes, so that her Ma tv , the Spanish and other Ambassadors, 
 who stood behind the throne, heard the Pope and worship of the Virgin 
 Marv, &c. renounc'd very decently, as likewise the prayers which fol- 
 low'd, standing all the while. Then came in the King, the Crowne on 
 his head, and being seated, the Commons were introduced, and the House 
 being full, he drew forth a paper containing his speech, which he read 
 distinctly enough, to this effect : " That he resolv'd to call a Parliament 
 from the moment of his brother's decease, as the best meanes to settle 
 all the concernes of the Nation, so as to be most easy and happy to 
 himselfe and his subjects; that he would confirme whatever he had said 
 in his declaration at the first Council concerning his opinion of the prin- 
 ciples of the Church of England, for their loyaltie, and would defend 
 and support it, and preserve its government as by law now established ; 
 that, as he would invade no man s property, so he would never depart 
 from his owne prerogative ; and as he had ventur'd his life in defence 
 of the Nation, so he would proceede to do still; that, having given this 
 assurance of his care of our Religion (his word was your Religion) and 
 Property (\v " he had not said by chance but solemnly), so he doubted 
 not of suitable returnes of his subjects duty and kindnesse, especialy as 
 to settling his Revenue for life, for y e many weighty necessities of go- 
 vernment, w ch he would not suffer to be precarious ; that some might 
 possibly suggest that it were better to feede and supply him from time 
 to time only, out of their inclination to frequent Parliaments, but that 
 that would be a very improper method to take with him, since the best 
 way to engage him to meete oftener would be always to use him well, 
 and therefore he expected their compliance speedily, that this Session 
 being but short, they might meet againe to satisfaction." At every 
 period of this the House gave loud shouts. Then he acquainted them 
 with that morning's news of Argyle's being landed in the West High- 
 lands of Scotland from Holland, and the treasonous declaration he had 
 published, which he would communicate to them, and that he should 
 
1685.] 599 
 
 take the best care he could it should meete with the reward it deserv'd, 
 not questioning the Parliament's zeale and readinesse to assist him as 
 he desir'd ; at which there follow 'd another Vive le Roi, and so his 
 Ma*y retir'd. 
 
 So soone as y* Commons were return'd and had put themselves into a 
 grand Committee, they immediately put the question, and unanimously 
 voted the Revenue to his Ma ,J for life. Mr. Seymour made a bold 
 speech against many Elections, and would have had those members who 
 (he pretended) were obnoxious, to withdraw, till they had clear'd the 
 matter of their being legally return'd ; but no one seconded him. The 
 truth is, there were many of the new members whose Elections and Re- 
 turns were universally censur'd, many of them being persons of no con- 
 dition or interest in the Nation, or places for which they serv'd, espe- 
 cially in Devon, Cornwall, Norfolk, &c. said to have ben recommended 
 by the Court and from the effect of the new charters changing y e elec- 
 tors. It was reported that Lord Bath carried down with him [into 
 Cornwall^ no fewer than 15 charters, so that some call'd him the Prince 
 Elector ; whence Seymour told the House in his speech that if this was 
 digested, they might introduce what religion and lawes they pleas'd, 
 and that tho' he never gave heed to y e feares and jealousies of the peo- 
 ple before, he now was really apprehensive of Popery. By the printed 
 list of Members of 505 there did not appeare to be above 135 who had 
 ben in former Parliaments, especialy that lately held at Oxford. 
 
 In y e Lords House Lord Newport made an exception against two or 
 three young Peeres, who wanted some moneths, and some only four or 
 five daies of being of age. 
 
 The Popish Lords who had ben sometime before releas'd from their 
 confinement about the Plot, were now discharg'd of their impeachment, 
 of w ch I gave Lord Arundel of Wardour joy. 
 
 Oates, who had but two dayes before ben pilloried at severall places 
 and whipt at y e carts taile from Newgate to Aldgate, was this day plac'd 
 on a sledge, being not able to go by reason of so late scourging, and 
 dragg'd from prison to Tyburn, and whipt againe all y e way, which 
 some thought to be very severe and extraordinary ; but if he was guilty 
 of the perjuries, and so of the death of many innocents, as I feare he 
 
600 
 
 [168 5 . 
 
 was, his punishment was hut what he deserv'd, I chanc'd to pass just 
 as execution was doing on him. A strange revolution ! 
 
 Note : there was no speech made hy the Lord Keeper [Bridgeman] 
 after his Ma*y, as usual. 
 
 It was whisper'd he would not he long in that situation, and many 
 believe the bold Cheif Justice Jefferies, who was made Baron of Wem 
 in Shropshire, and who went thorough stitch in that tribunal, stands 
 fair for that office. I gave him joy the morning before of his new 
 honour, he having always ben very civil to me. 
 
 24 May. We had hitherto not any raine for many moneths, so as y e 
 caterpillars had already devour'd all y e winter fruite thro' the whole land, 
 and even kill'd severall greater old trees. Such two winters and sum- 
 mers I had never knowne. 
 
 4 June. Came to visite and take leave of me S r Gab. Sylvius, now 
 going Envoy extraordinary into Denmark, with his Secretary and Chap- 
 laine, a Frenchman, who related the miserable persecution of the Pro- 
 testants in France; not above 10 Churches left them, and those also 
 threaten'd to be demolish'd ; they were commanded to christen their 
 children within 24 houres after birth, or else a Popish Priest was to be 
 call'd, and then y e infant brought up in Popery. In some places they 
 were 30 leagues from any minister or opportunity of worship. This 
 persecution had displeas'd the most industrious part of y e nation, and 
 dispers'd those into Swisse, Burgundy, Holland, Germany, Denmark, 
 England, and the Plantations. There were with S r Gabriel, his lady, 
 S l W m Godolphin and sisters, and my Lord Godolphin's little son, my 
 charge. I brought them to the water side where Sir Gabriel embark'd, 
 and the rest return'd to London. 
 
 14. There was now certaine intelligence of the Duke of Monmouth 
 landing at Lyme in Dorsetshire, and of his having set up his standard 
 as King of England. I pray God deliver us from the confusion which 
 these beginnings threaten ! 
 
 Such a dearth for want of raine was never in my memory. 
 
 17. The Duke landed with but 150 men, but the whole Kingdom 
 was alarm'd, fearing that the disaffected would joyn them, many of the 
 train' d bands flocking to him. At his landing he publish'd a declara- 
 
1685-] 601 
 
 tion, charging his Ma tv with usurpation and several horrid crimes, on 
 pretence of his owne title, and offering to call a free Parliament. This 
 declaration was order' d to be burnt by the hangman, the Duke pro- 
 claimed a traytor, and a reward of ^.5,000 to any who should kill him. 
 
 At this time the words engraved on the monument in London, inti- 
 mating that the Papists fir'd the Citty, were erased and cut out. 
 
 The exceeding drowth still continues. 
 
 18. I received a warrant to send out a horse with 12 dayes pro- 
 vision, &c. 
 
 28. We had now plentiful raine after 2 yeares excessive drowth and 
 severe winters. 
 
 Argyle taken in Scotland and executed, and his party dispers'd. 
 
 2 July. No considerable account of the troops sent against the 
 Duke, tlio' greate forces sent. There was a smart skirmish, but he 
 would not be provok'd to come to an encounter, but still kept in the 
 fastnesses. 
 
 Dangerfield whipp'd, like Oates, for perjurie. 
 
 8 July. Came news of Monmouth's utter defeate, and the next day 
 of his being taken by S 1 W' n Portman and Lord Lumley with the 
 militia of their counties. It seemes the horse, commanded by Lord 
 Grey, being newly rais'd and undisciplin'd, were not to be brought in 
 so short a time to endure the fire, which expos'd the foote to the King's, 
 so as when Monmouth had led the foote in greate silence and order, 
 thinking to surprize Lieut* Gen 1 Lord Feversham newly encamp'd, and 
 given him a smart charge, interchanging both greate and small shot, 
 the horse, breaking their owne ranks, Monmouth gave it over, and fled 
 with Grey, leaving their party to be cut in pieces to the number of 
 2000. The whole number reported to be above 8,000, the King's but 
 2,700. The slaine were most of them Mendip -miners, who did greate 
 execution with their tooles, and sold their lives very dearely, whilst 
 their leaders flying were pursu'd and taken the next morning, not far 
 from one another. Monmouth had gone 16 miles on foote, changing 
 his habite for a poore coate, and was found by Lord Lumley in a dry 
 ditch cover'd with fern-brakes, but without sword, pistol, or any wea- 
 pon, and so might have pass'd for some countryman, his beard being 
 vol. 1. 4 H 
 
602 
 
 [1685. 
 
 grown so long and so grey as hardly to be known, had not his George 
 discover'd him, which was found in his pocket. 'Tis said he trem- 
 bl'd exceedingly all over, not able to speake. Grey was taken not far 
 from him. Most of his party were anabaptists and poore clothworkers 
 of y e country, no gentlemen of account being come in to him. The 
 arch-boutefeu Ferguson, Matthews, &c. were not yet found. The 
 ^=.5,000 to be given to whoever should bring Monmouth in, was to 
 be distributed among the militia by agreement between S' W m Port- 
 man and Lord Lumley. The battail ended, some words, first in jest, 
 then in passion, pass'd between Sherrington Talbot (a worthy gent", 
 son to S 1 ' John Talbot, and who had behav'd himselfe very hand- 
 somely) and one Capt. Love, both commanders of the militia, as to 
 whose souldiers fought best, both drawing their swords and passing at 
 one another. Sherrington was wounded to death on the spot, to the 
 greate regret of those who knew him. He was Sir John's only son. 
 
 9 July. Just as I was coming into the lodgings at White-hall, a 
 little before dinner, my Lord of Devonshire standing very neere his 
 Ma ty ' s bed-chamber doore in the lobby, came Col. Culpeper, and in a 
 rude manner looking my Lord in the face, asked whether this was a 
 time and place for excluders to appeare ; my Lord at first tooke little 
 notice of what he said, knowing him to be a hot-headed fellow, but he 
 reiterating it, my Lord ask'd Culpeper whether he meant him; he said, 
 yes, he meant his Lordship. My Lord told him he was no excluder (as 
 indeed he was not) ; the other affirming it againe, my Lord told him he 
 lied, on which Culpeper struck him a box on the eare, which my Lord 
 return'd and fell'd him. They were soone parted, Culpeper was seiz'd, 
 and his Ma tv , who was all the while in his bed-chamber, order'd him to 
 be carried to the Green Cloth Officer, who sent him to the Marshalsea 
 as he deserv'd. My Lord Devon had nothing said to him. 
 
 I supp'd this night at Lambeth at my old friend's Mr. Elias Ash- 
 mole's, with my Lady Clarendon, y e Bishop of St. Asaph, and Dr. 
 Tenison, when we were treated at a greate feast. 
 
 10 July. The Count of Castel Mellor, that greate favourite and 
 prime minister of Alphonso, late king of Portugal, after several 
 yeares banishment, being now receiv'd to grace, and call'd home by Don 
 
603 
 
 Pedro the present King, as having ben found a person of the greatest 
 integrity after all his sufferings, desir'd me to spend part of this day 
 with him, and assist him in a collection of books and other curiosities, 
 which he would carry with him into Portugal. 
 
 Mr. Hussey *, a young gentleman who made love to mv late deare 
 child, but whom she could not bring herselfe to answer in affection, died 
 now of the same cruel disease, for w th I was extreamly sorry, because 
 he never enjoy 'd himselfe after my daughter's decease, nor was I averse 
 to the match, could she have overcome her disinclination. 
 
 15. I went to see Dr. Tenison's Library [in St. Martin's.] 
 
 Monmouth was this day brought to London and examin'd before the 
 King, to whom he made greate submission, acknowledg'd his seduction 
 by Ferguson the Scot, whom he nam'd y e bloudy villain. He was 
 sent to y e Tower, had an interview with his late Dutchesse, whom he 
 receiv'd coldly, having liv'd dishonestly with y e Lady Henrietta Went- 
 worth for two yeares. He obstinately asserted his conversation with that 
 debauch'd woman to be no sin, whereupon, seeing he could not be per- 
 suaded to his last breath, the divines who were sent to assist him 
 thought not fit to administer the Holy Communion to him. For y e rest 
 of his faults he profess'd greate sorrow, and so died without any appa- 
 rent feare ; he would not make use of a cap or other circumstance, but 
 lying downe, bid the fellow do his office better than to the late Lord 
 Russell, and gave him gold ; but the wretch made five chopps before he 
 had his head off ; w ch so incens'd the people, that had he not been 
 guarded and got away, they would have torn him to pieces. 
 
 The Duke made no speech on the scaffold (w ch was on Tower Hill) 
 but gave a paper containing not above 5 or 6 lines, for the King, in 
 which he disclaims all title to y e Crown, acknowledges that the late 
 King, his father, had indeede told him he was but his base sonn, and 
 so desir'd his Ma^ to be kind to his wife and children. This relation I 
 had from Dr. Tenison (Rector of St. Martin's), who, with the Bishops 
 of Ely and Bath and Wells, were sent to him by his Ma tv , and were at 
 the execution. 
 
 * Son of Peter Hussey, Esq. of Sutton, in Shere, Surrey. See pp. 431, 535. 
 
604 [1685- 
 
 Thus ended this quondam Duke, darling of his father and y e ladies, 
 being extreamly handsome and adroit; an excellent souldier and dancer, 
 a favourite of the people, of an easy nature, debauch'd by lust, seduc'd 
 by crafty knaves who would have set him up only to make a property, 
 and took the opportunity of the King being of another religion, to ga- 
 ther a party of discontented men. He fail'd, and perish'd. 
 
 He was a lovely person, had a virtuous and excellent lady that 
 brought him greate riches, and a second dukedom in Scotland. He 
 was Master of the Horse, General of the King his father's Army, 
 Gentleman of the Bed-chamber, Knight of the Garter, Chancellor of 
 Cambridge, in a word had accumulations without end. See what ambi- 
 tion and want of principles brought him to ! He was beheaded on 
 Tuesdav 1 4th Julv. His mother, whose name was Barlow, daughter of 
 some very meane creatures, was a beautiful strumpet, whom I had often 
 seene at Paris ; she died miserably without any thing to bury her ; 
 yet this Perkin had ben made to believe that the King had married her; 
 a monstrous and ridiculous forgerie ; and to satisfy the world of the ini- 
 quity of the report, the King his father (if his father he really was, 
 for he most resembl'd one Sidney *, who was familiar with his mother) 
 publickly and most solemnly renounc'd it, to be so enter'd in the 
 Council Booke some yeares since, with all y e Privy Councellors at- 
 testation f. 
 
 * Mr. Robert Sidney, commonly called handsome Sidney, related to the Earl of Leicester of that 
 name. 
 
 f Ross, tutor to the Duke of Monmouth, proposed to Bishop Cozens to sign a certificate of the 
 King's marriage to Mrs. Barlow, though her own name was Walters: this the Bishop refused. She 
 was born of a gentleman's family in Wales, but having little means and less grace, came to London 
 to make her fortune. Algernon Sidney, then a Colonel in Cromwell's army, had agreed to give 
 her 50 broad pieces (as he told the Duke of York) ; but being ordered hastily away with his regi- 
 ment, he missed his bargain. She went into Holland, where she fell into the hands of his brother 
 Colonel Robert Sidney, who kept her for some time, till the King hearing of her, got her from 
 him. On which the Colonel was heard to say, Let who will have her she is already sped ; and after 
 being with the King she was so soon with child that the world had no cause to doubt whose child 
 it was, and the rather that when he grew to be a man, he very much resembled the Colonel both in 
 stature and countenance, even to a wort on his face. However the King owned the child. In the 
 King's absence she behaved so loosely, that on his return from his escape at Worcester, he would 
 have no further commerce with her, and she became a common prostitute at Paris. Life of King 
 James II. vol. I. 491. 
 
1685.] 605 
 
 Had it not pleas'd God to dissipate this attempt in y e beginning, 
 there would in all appearance have gather'd an irresistable force which 
 would have desperately proceeded to y e ruine of y e Church and Govern- 
 ment, so general was the discontent and expectation of the opportunity. 
 For my owne part I look'd upon this deliverance as most signal. Such 
 an inundation of phanatics and men of impious principles must needs 
 have caus'd universal disorder, cruelty, injustice, rapine, sacrilege, and 
 confusion, an unavoidable civil war and misery without end. Blessed 
 be God the knot was happily broken, and a faire prospect of tranquil- 
 lity for the future if we reforme, be thankfull, and make a right use of 
 this mercy. 
 
 18 July. I went to see the muster of the 6 Scotch and English re- 
 giments whom the Prince of Orange had lately sent to his Ma ty out of 
 Holland upon this rebellion, but which were now returning, there 
 having ben no occasion for their use. They were all excellently clad 
 and well disciplin'd, and were incamped on Blackheath with their 
 tents: the King and Queene came to see them exercise, and the man- 
 ner of their incampment, which was very neate and magnificent. 
 
 By a grosse mistake of the Secretary of his Ma l >' s forces, it had ben 
 order'd that they should be quarter'd in private houses, contrary to an 
 Act of Parliament, but on my informing his Ma'^ timely of it, it was 
 prevented. 
 
 The two horsemen w ch my son and myselfe sent into the county troopes, 
 were now come home, after a moneth's being out to our greate charge. 
 
 20. The Trinity Company met this day, which should have ben on 
 y e Monday after Trinity, but was put off by reason of the Royal Charter 
 being so large that it could not be ready before. Some immunities were 
 super-added. Mr. Pepys, Secretary to y c Admiralty, was a second 
 time chosen Master. There were present the Duke of Grafton, Lord 
 Dartmouth, Master of y e Ordnance, the Commissioners of y e Navy, 
 and brethren of the Corporation. We went to Church according to 
 costome, and then took barge to the Trinity House, in London, where 
 we had a great dinner, above 80 at one table. 
 
 7 Aug. I went to see Mr. Wats, keeper of the Apothecaries Gar- 
 den of Simples at Chelsea, where there is a collection of innumerable 
 
606 [1685. 
 
 rarities of that sort particularly, besides many rare annuals, the tree 
 bearing jesuits bark, w ch had don such wonders in quartan agues. 
 What was very ingenious was the subterranean heate, conveyed by a 
 stove under the conservatory, all vaulted with brick, so as he has the 
 doores and windowes open in the hardest frosts, secluding only the 
 s,now. 
 
 15. Came to visite us Mr. Boscawen with my Lord Godolphin's 
 little son, with whose education hither his father had intrusted me. 
 
 27. My daughter Elizabeth died of the small pox, soon after 
 having married a young man, nephew of Sir John Tippett, sur- 
 veyor of the Navy, and one of the Commissioners. The 30 th she was 
 buried in the Church at Deptford. Thus in lesse than six moneths 
 were we deprived of two children for our unworthinesse and causes best 
 knowne to God, whom I beseeche from the bottome of my heart that he 
 will give us grace to make that right use of all these chastisements, 
 that we may become better, and entirely submitt in all things to his 
 infinite wise disposal. Amen. 
 
 3 Sept. Lord Clarendon (Lord Privy Scale) wrote to let me know 
 that the King being pleas'd to send him Lord Lieutenant into Ireland, 
 was also pleas'd to nominate me one of the Commiss rs to execute y e 
 office of Privy Seale during his Lieutenancy there, it behoving me to 
 wait upon his Ma ty to give him thanks for this greate honour. 
 
 5. I accompanied his Lordship to Windsor (dining by the way at 
 Sir Henry Capel's at Kew), where his Ma ty receiving me with extra- 
 ordinary kindnesse, I kiss'd his hand. I told him how sensible I was 
 of his Ma tys gracious favour to me, that I would endeavour to serve 
 him with all sincerity, diligence, and loyalty, not more out of my 
 duty than inclination. He said he doubted not of it, and was glad he 
 had the opportunity to shew me the kindnesse he had for me. After 
 this came aboundance of greate men to give me joy. 
 
 6. Sunday. I went to prayer in the Chapell, and heard Dr. Standish. 
 The second sermon was preach'd by Dr. Creighton, on 1 Thess. 4, 11, 
 persuading to unity and peace, and to be mindfull of our owne busi- 
 nesse, according to the advise of the Apostle. Then I went to heare a 
 Frenchman who preached before the King and Queene in that splendid 
 
1685.] 
 
 607 
 
 Chapell next St. George's Hall. Their Ma ties going to masse, I with- 
 drew to consider the stupendous painting of y e Hall, which, both for 
 the art and invention, deserve the inscription in honour of the painter, 
 Signior Verrio. The history is Edward the 3d receiving the Black 
 Prince, coming towards him in a Roman triumph. The whole roofe is 
 the history of St. George. The throne, the carvings, &c. are incom- 
 parable, and I think equal to any, and in many circumstances exceed- 
 ing any, I have seene abroad. 
 
 I din'd at Lord Sunderland's, with (amongst others) S r W m Soames, 
 design'd Ambass r to Constantinople. 
 
 About 6 o'clock came S r Dudley and his brother Roger North, and 
 brought the greate seale from my Lord Keeper, who died y e day before 
 at his house in Oxfordshire. The King went immediately to Council ; 
 every body guessing who was most likely to succeed this greate officer ; 
 most believing it could be no other than my Lord Chief Justice Jef- 
 feries, who had so vigorously prosecuted the late rebells, and was now 
 gone the Western circuit, to punish the rest that were secur'd in the 
 several counties, and was now neere upon his returne. I tooke my 
 leave of his Ma tv , who spake very graciously to me, and supping that 
 night at S 1 Stephen Fox's, I promis'd to dine there the next day. 
 
 15 Sept. I accompanied Mr. Pepys to Portsmouth, whither his 
 Ma ,y was going the first time since his coming to the Crowne, to see in 
 what state the fortifications were. We tooke coach and six horses, 
 late after dinner, yet got to Bagshot* that night. Whilst supper was 
 making ready I went and made a visit to Mrs. Graham -f, some time 
 maid of honour to y e Queene Dowager, now wife to James Graham, 
 Esq. of the privy purse to the King ; her house J being a walke in the 
 forest, within a little quarter of a mile from Bagshot towne. Very 
 importunate she was that I would sup, and abide there that night, but 
 being obliged by my companion, I return'd to our inn, after she had 
 shew'd me her house, w ch was very commodious and well furnish'd, as 
 she was an excellent housewife, a prudent and virtuous lady. There is 
 a parke full of red deere about it. Her eldest son was now sick there 
 
 * <26 miles. 
 
 f Miss Howard, see p 479. 
 
 X Bagshot Park. 
 
608 [1685. 
 
 of the small-pox, but in a likely way of recovery, and other of her 
 children run about, and among the infected, w ch she said she let them 
 do on purpose that they might whilst young pass that fatal disease 
 she fancied they were to undergo one time or other, and that this 
 would be the best : the severity of this cruell disease so lately in my 
 poore family confirming much of what she affirmed. 
 
 16. The next morning setting out early, we ariv'd soon enough 
 at Winchester to waite on the King, who was lodg'd at the Dean's 
 (Dr. Meggot). I found very few with him besides my Lords Fever- 
 sham, Arran, Newport, and the Bishop of Bath and Wells. His 
 Ma tv was discoursing with the Bishops concerning miracles, and what 
 strange things the Saludadors* would do in Spaine, as by creeping 
 into heated ovens without hurt, and that they had a black crosse in the 
 roofe of their mouthes, but yet were commonly notorious and profane 
 wretches ; upon which his Majesty further said, that he was so 
 extreamly difficult of miracles, for feare of being impos'd upon, that if 
 he should chance to see one himselfe, without some other witness, he 
 should apprehend it a delusion of his senses. Then they spake of y e 
 boy who was pretended to have a wanting leg restor'd him, so confi- 
 dently asserted by Fr. de S ta Clara and others. To all which the Bishop 
 added a greate miracle happening in Winchester to his certaine know- 
 ledge, of a poor miserably sick and decrepit child (as I remember long 
 kept unbaptiz'd), who immediately on his baptism recover'd ; as also 
 of y e salutary effect of K. Charles his Ma^ 8 father's blood, in healing 
 one that was blind. 
 
 * As to that of the Saludador (of which likewise 1 remember Sir Arthur Hopton, formerly Am- 
 bassador at Madrid, had told me many like wonders) Mr. Pepys passing through Spaine, and 
 being extreamly inquisitive of the truth of these pretended miracles of the Saludadors, found a 
 very famous one at last, to whom he offered a considerable reward if he would make a trial of the 
 oven, or any other thing of that kind, before him; the fellow ingenuously told him that finding he 
 was a more than ordinary curious person, he would not deceive him, and so acknowledged that he 
 could do none of the feates really, but that what they pretended was all a cheate, wch he would 
 easily discover, though the poore superstitious people were easily imposed upon ; yet have these 
 imposters an allowance of the Bishops to practice their juglings. This Mr. Pepys affirmed to me, 
 but, said he, I did not conceive it fit to interrupt his Maty, who so solemnly told what they pre- 
 tended to do. J. E. 
 
609 
 
 There was something said of the second sight happening to some 
 persons, especialy Scotch ; upon which his Ma l >, and I think Lord Arrati, 
 
 told us that Mons a French nobleman, lately here in England, 
 
 seeing the late Duke of Monmouth come into y e play-house at London, 
 suddenly cried out to somebody sitting in the same box, Voila Mon- 
 sieur comme il entre sans t(?te. Afterwards his Ma ( > spoke of some 
 reliques that had effected strange cures, particularly a piece of our Bl. 
 Saviour's Crosse, that heal'd a gentleman's rotten nose by onely touch- 
 ing; and speaking of the golden crosse and chaine taken out of the 
 coffin of St. Edward the Confessor at Westm r *, by one of the singing 
 men, who, as the scaffolds were taking down after his Ma tvs coronation, 
 espying a hole in the tomb, and something glisten, put his hand in, 
 and brought it to the Deane, and he to the King; his Ma'y began to 
 put the Bishop in mind how earnestly the late King (his brother) call'd 
 upon him, during his agonie, to take out what he had in his pocket. 
 I had thought, said the King, it had ben for some keys, which might 
 lead to some cabinet that his Ma tv would have me secure ; but, says 
 he, you well remember that I found nothing in any of his pockets but 
 a crosse of gold, and a few insignificant papers ; and thereupon he 
 shew'd us the crosse, and was pleas'd to put it into my hand. It was 
 of gold, about three inches long, having on one side a crucifix enamell'd 
 and emboss'd, the rest was grav'd and garnish'd with goldsmith's work, 
 and two pretty broad table amethists (as I conceiv'd), and at the bottom 
 a pendant pearle ; within was inchas'd a little fragment, as was thought, 
 of the true Crosse, and a Latine inscription in gold and Roman letters f. 
 More company coming in, this discourse ended. I may not forget a 
 resolution which his Ma tv made, and had a little before enter'd upon it 
 at y e Council Board at Windsor or White-hall, that the Negroes in the 
 Plantations should all be baptiz'd, exceedingly declaiming against that 
 impiety of their masters prohibiting it, out of a mistaken opinion that 
 they would be ipso facto free ; but his Ma ,y persists in his resolution to 
 have them christen'd, w ch piety y e Bishop blessed him for. 
 
 * See a " Narrative" on this subject among the Illustrations at the end of this Volume, 
 f There is a pamphlet giving an account of this finding, and presenting to the King, under the 
 name of George Taylour ; but his name was Henry Keepe. See Cough's Topography. 
 
 VOL. I. 4 I 
 
610 [1685. 
 
 I went out to see the new Palace the late King had began, and 
 brought almost to the covering. It is plac'd on the side of the hill 
 where formerly stood the old Castle. It is a stately fabric, of three 
 sides and a corridor, all built of brick, and cornish'd, windows and 
 columns at the break and entrance of free-stone. It was intended for a 
 hunting-house when his Ma tv should come to these parts, and has an 
 incomparable prospect. I believe there had already ben ^.20,000 and 
 more expended, but his now Majesty did not seeme to encourage the 
 finishing it, at least for a while. 
 
 Hence I went to see the Cathedral, a reverend pile, and in good 
 repaire. There are still the coffins of the six Saxon Kings, whose bones 
 had ben scatter'd by the sacrilegious Rebells of 1641, in expectation, I 
 suppose, of finding some valuable reliques, and afterwards gather'd up 
 againe and put into new chests, w cb stand above the stalls of the Choir. 
 
 17 Sept. Early next morning we went to Portsmouth, something 
 before his Ma^ ariv'd. We found all the way full of people, the 
 women in their best dress, in expectation of seeing the King pass by, 
 which he did riding on horseback a good part of the way. We found the 
 Maior and Aldermen with their mace, and in their formalities, standing 
 at the entrance of the fort, a mile on this side of the towne, where the 
 Maior made a speech to the King, and then the guns of the fort were 
 fired, as were those of the garrison so soone as the King was come into 
 Portsmouth. All the souldiers (neere 3000) were drawn up, and lining 
 the streetes and platforme to God's-house (the name of the Governor's 
 house), where, after he had view'd the new fortifications and ship-yard, 
 
 his Ma ty was entertain'd ' at a magnificent dinner by Sir 
 
 Slingsby y e Lieut. Governor, all the gentlemen in his traine setting 
 down at table with him, w ch I also had don had I not ben before 
 engag'd to S r Rob* Holmes, Gov' - of y e Isle of Wight, to dine with 
 him at a private house, where likewise we had a very sumptuous and 
 plentifull repast of excellent venison, fowle, fish, and fruit. 
 
 After dinner I went to wait on his Ma l> againe, who was pulling on 
 his bootes in y e Towne-hall, adjoyning the house where he din'd, and 
 then having saluted some ladys, who came to kiss his hand, he tooke 
 horse for Winchester, whither he returned that night. This hall is 
 
1<G85.] 611 
 
 artificial}- hung round with armes of all sorts, like the Hall and Keep 
 at Windsor. 
 
 I went hence to see the ship-yard and dock, the fortifications, and 
 other things. 
 
 Portsmouth when finish'd will be very strong, and a noble key. 
 There were now 32 men of war in y e harbour. I was invited by Sir 
 R. Beach y c Commissioner, where, after a greate supper, Mr. Secre- 
 tary and myselfe lay that night, and the next morning set out for Guild- 
 ford, where we ariv'd in good hour, and so the day after to London. 
 
 1 had twice before ben at Portsmouth, y e Isle of Wight, &c. many 
 yeares since. I found this part of Hampshire bravely wooded, espe- 
 cialy about y e house and estate of Col. Norton, who, tho' now in being, 
 having formerly made his peace by means of Col. Legg, was formerly 
 a very fierce commander in the first Rebellion. His house is large, 
 and standing low, on the road from Winchester to Portsmouth. 
 
 By what I observ'd in this journey, is that infinite industry, sedulity, 
 gravity, and greate understanding and experience of affaires, in his 
 Ma ty , that I cannot but predict much happiness to y e Nation, as to its 
 political government ; and if he so persist, there could be nothing more 
 desir'd to accomplish our prosperity but that he was of the National 
 Religion. 
 
 30. Lord Clarendon's Commission for Lieutenant of Ireland was 
 seal'd this day. 
 
 2 Oct. Having a letter sent me by Mr. Pepys with this expression 
 at the foote of it, " I have something to shew you that I may not have 
 another time," and that I would not fade to dine with him, I accordingly' 
 went. After dinner he had me and Mr. Houblon (a rich and consider- 
 able merchant, whose father had fled out of Flanders on the persecution 
 of the Duke of Alva) into a private roome, and told us that being lately 
 alone with his Ma% and upon some occasion of speaking concerning 
 my late Lord Arlington dying a Roman Catholic, who had all along 
 seem'd to profess himselfe a Protestant, taken all the tests, &c. till the 
 day (I think) of his death, his Ma ty sayd that as to his inclinations he 
 had known him long wavering, but from feare of looseing his places he 
 did not think it convenient to declare himself. There are, says the 
 
612 
 
 [1685. 
 
 King, those who believe the Church of Rome gives dispensations for 
 going to church, and many like things, but that is not so ; for if that 
 might have ben had, he himselfe had most reason to make use of it. 
 hideede, he said, as to some matrimonial cases, there are now and 
 then dispensations, but hardly in any cases else. This familiar dis- 
 course encourag'd Mr. Pepys to beg of his Ma**, if he might ask it 
 without offence, and for that his Ma ty could not but observe how it was 
 whisper'd among many, whether his late Ma ty had ben reconcil'd to y e 
 Church of Rome ; he againe humbly besought his Ma ty to pardon his 
 presumption if he had touch'd upon a thing which did not befit him to 
 looke into : the King ingenuously told him that he both was and died 
 a Roman Catholic, and that he had not long since declar'd it was upon 
 some politic and state reasons, best known to himselfe (meaning the 
 King his brother) hut that he was of that persuasion : he bid him 
 follow him into his closet, where opening a cabinet, he shew'd him two 
 papers, containing about a quarter of a sheete, on both sides written, in 
 the late King's owne hand, severall arguments opposite to the doctrine 
 of the Church of England, charging her with heresy, novelty and y c 
 fanaticism of other Protestants, the cheif whereof was, as I remember, 
 our refusing to acknowledge the Primacy and Infallibility of the Church 
 of Rome ; how impossible it was that so many ages should never dis- 
 pute it, till of late ; how unlikely our Saviour would leave his Church 
 without a visible head and guide to resort to, during his absence ; 
 with the like usual topics ; so well penn'd as to the discourse as did 
 by no means seeme to me to have ben put together by the late King, 
 yet written all with his owne hand, blotted and interlin'd, so as, if 
 indeede it was not given him by some priest, they might be such argu- 
 ments and reasons as had ben inculcated from time to time, and here 
 recollected ; and in the conclusion shewing his looking on the Protes- 
 tant Religion (and by name the Church of England) to be without 
 foundation, and consequently false and unsafe. When his Ma ty had 
 shewn him these originals, he was pleas'd to lend him the copies of 
 those two papers, attested at the bottome in 4 or 5 lines, under his 
 owne hand. 
 
 These were the papers I saw and read. This nice and curious pas- 
 
613 
 
 sage I thought fit to set downe. Tho' all the arguments and objections 
 were altogether weake, and have a thousand times ben answer'd by our 
 Divines ; they are such as their Priests insinuate among their proselites, 
 as if nothing were Catholiq but the Church of Rome, no salvation out 
 of that, no reformation sufterable, bottoming all their errors on St. 
 Peter's successors unerrable dictatorship, but proving nothing with 
 any reason, or taking notice of any objection which could be made 
 against it. Here all was taken for granted, and upon it a resolution 
 and preference implied. I was heartily sorry to see all this, tho' it was 
 no other than was to be suspected, by his late Ma 1 ^ too greate indiffer- 
 ence, neglect, and course of life, that he had ben perverted, and for 
 secular respects onely profess'd to be of another beliefe, and thereby 
 giving greate advantage to our adversaries, both the Court and gene- 
 raly the youth and greate persons of the Nation becoming dissolute and 
 highly profane. God was incens'd to make his reign very troublesome 
 and un prosperous, by warrs, plagues, fires, losse of reputation by an 
 universal neglect of the publique for the love of a voluptuous and 
 sensual life, w ch a vicious Court had brought into credit. I think of it 
 with sorrow and pity when I consider of how good and debonaire a 
 nature that unhappy Prince was, what opportunities he had to have 
 made himselfe the most renown'd King that ever sway'd the British 
 scepter, had he ben firm to that Church for w ch his martyr'd and 
 blessed father suffer' d ; and had he ben gratefull to Almighty God, who 
 so miraculously restor'd him, with so excellent a Religion ; had he en- 
 deavour'd to owne and propagate it as he should have don, not onely 
 for the good of his Kingdom, but of all the Reformed Churches in 
 Christendom, now weaken'd and neere ruin'd thro' our remissnesse and 
 suffering them to be suplanted, persecuted and destroy'd, as in France, 
 which we tooke no notice of. The consequence of this time will shew, 
 and I wish it may proceed no further. The emissaries and instruments 
 of the Church of Rome will never rest till they have crush'd the Church 
 of England, as knowing that alone to be able to cope with them, and 
 that they can never answer her fairly, but lie aboundantly open to the 
 irresistable force of her arguments, antiquity and purity of her doctrine, 
 so that albeit it may move God, for the punishment of a Nation so 
 
614 [*6$5. 
 
 unworthy, to eclipse againe the profession of her here, and dark nesse and 
 superstition prevaile, I am most confident the doctrine of the Church 
 of England will never he extinguished, but remaine visible, if not 
 eminent, to v c consummation of the world. I have innumerable reasons 
 that confirm me in this opinion, which I forbear to mention here. 
 
 In the mean time as to the discourse of his Ma ty with Mr. Pepys 
 and those papers, as I do exceedingly prefer his Majesty's free and in- 
 genuous profession of what his own Religion is, beyond concealment 
 upon any politic accounts, so I thinke him of a most sincere and honest 
 nature, one on whose word one may relie, and that he makes a con- 
 science of what he promises, to performe it. In this confidence I hope 
 that the Church of England may yet subsist, and when it shall please 
 God to open his eyes and turne his heart (for that is peculiarly in the 
 Lord's hands) to flourish also. In all events whatever do become of the 
 Church of England, it is certainely, of all the Christian professions on 
 the earth, the most primitive, apostolical and excellent. 
 
 8 Oct. I had my picture drawn this week by the famous Kneller *. 
 
 14. I went to London about finishing my lodgings at White-hall. 
 
 15. Being the King's birth day, there was a solemne ball at Court, 
 and before it musiq of instruments and voices. At the musiq I hap- 
 pen'd by accident to stand the very next to the Queene and the King, 
 who talk'd with me about the musick. 
 
 18. The King was now building all that range from East to West 
 by y e Court and Garden to the streete, and making a new Chapel for y e 
 Queene, whose lodgings were to be in this new building, as also a new 
 Council chamber and offices next y e South end of y e Banquetting house. 
 I returned home next morning to London. 
 
 22. I accompanied my Lady Clarendon to her house at Swallow- 
 field in Berks, dining by the way at Mr. Graham's lodge at Bagshotf ; 
 the house, new repair'd and capacious enough for a good family, stands 
 in a Park. 
 
 Hence we went to Swallowfield ; this house is after the antient build- 
 ing of honourable gentlemen's houses, when they kept up antient hos- 
 
 * An Engraving from tins Portrait now at Wotton forms the Frontispiece to the First Volume 
 
 of these Memoirs. f See p. 60?. 
 
1685.] 
 
 pitality, but the gardens and waters as elegant as 'tis possible to make a 
 flat, by art and Industrie, and no meane expence, my lady being so 
 extraordinarily skill'd in y e flowery part, and my lord in diligence of 
 planting ; so that I have hardly seene a seate which shews more 
 tokens of it than what is to be found here, not only in the delicious 
 and rarest fruits of a garden, but in those innumerable timber trees in 
 the ground about the seate, to the greatest ornament and benefit of 
 the place. There is one orchard of 1000 golden, and other cider 
 pippins ; walks and groves of elms, limes, oaks, and other trees. 
 The garden is so beset with all manner of sweete shrubbs, that it per- 
 fumes the aire. The distribution also of the quarters, walks, and 
 parterres, is excellent. The nurseries, kktchin garden full of y e most 
 desireable plants ; two very noble Orangeries well furnished ; but above 
 all, the canall and fishponds-, the one fed with a white, the other with 
 a black running water, fed by a quick and swift river, so well and plen- 
 tifully stor'd with fish, that for pike, carp, breame and tench, I never 
 saw any thing approching it. We had at every meale carp and pike 
 of size fit for the table of a Prince, and what added to y e delight 
 was to see the hundreds taken by the drag, out of which, the cooke 
 standing by, we pointed out what we had most mind to, and had carp 
 that would have ben worth at London twenty shillings a piece. The 
 waters are flagg'd about with Calamus aromaticus, with w ch my lady 
 has hung a closet, that retains the smell very perfectly. There is also 
 a certaine sweete willow and other exotics ; also a very fine bowling- 
 Greene, meadow, pasture, and wood ; in a word, all that can render 
 a country seate delightful. There is besides a well furnish'd library in 
 \ L house. 
 
 26, We return'd to London, having ben treated with all sorts of 
 cheere and noble freedom by that most religious and vertuous lady. 
 She was now preparing to go for Ireland with her husband, made Lord 
 Deputy, and went to this country-house and antient seate of her father 
 and family*, to set things in order during her absence ; but never were 
 — _ . — 
 
 * She was daughter and heirebs of Win. Backhouse, Esq.; and widow of Sir Win. Backhouse, 
 Bart. Collins's Peerage. 
 
616 [1685. 
 
 good people and neighbours more concern'd than all the country (the 
 poor especialy) for the departure of this charitable woman ; every one 
 was in teares, and she as unwilling to part from them. There was 
 amongst them a maiden of primitive life, the daughter of a poore labour- 
 ing man, who had sustain'd her parents (sometime since dead) by 
 her labour, and has for many years refus'd marriage, or to receive any 
 assistance from the parish, besides y e little hermitage my lady gives 
 her rent-free ; she lives on foure pence a day, which she gets by spin- 
 ning ; says she abounds and can give almes to others, living in greate 
 humility and content, without any apparent affectation or singularity ; 
 she is continualy working, praying or reading, gives a good account of 
 her knowledge in religion, visites the sick ; is not in the least given to 
 talke ; very modest, of a simple not unseemly behaviour; of a comely 
 countenance, clad very plaine, but cleane and tight. In sum, she 
 appeares a saint of an extraordinary sort, in so religious a life as is 
 seldom met with in villages now a-daies. 
 
 27- I was invited to dine at Sir Ste. Fox's with my Lord Lieute T 
 nant, where was such a dinner for variety of all things as I had seldome 
 seene, and it was so for the trial of a master cooke whom Sir Stephen 
 had recommended to go with his Lordship into Ireland; there were all 
 y e dainties not onely of the season, but of what art could add, venison, 
 plaine solid meate, fowle, bak'd and boil'd meates, banquet [desert], 
 &c. in exceeding plenty and exquisitely dress'd. There also din'd my 
 Lord Ossory and Lady (the Duke of Beaufort's daughter), my Lady 
 Treasurer, Lord Cornbery, Sec. 
 
 28. At the Royal Society an urn full of bones was presented, dug 
 up in an highway, .whilst repairing it, in a field in Camberwell in 
 Surrey ; it was found intire with its cover, amongst many others, be- 
 liev'd to be truly Roman and antient. 
 
 Sir Rich' 1 Bulkeley described to us a model of a charriot he had 
 invented, w' 1 ' it was not possible to overthrow in whatever uneven way 
 it was drawn, giving us a wonderfull relation of what it had perform'd 
 in that kind, for ease, expedition, and safety ; there were some incon- 
 veniencies yet to be remedied — it would not contain more than one 
 
1685.] 617 
 
 person ; was ready to take fire every 10 miles, and being plac'd, and 
 playing on no fewer than 10 rollers, it made a most prodigious 
 noise, almost intolerable. A remedy was to be sought for these 
 inconveniencies. 
 
 31. I din'd at our greate Lord Chancellor Jefferies, who us'd me 
 with much respect. This was the late Chief Justice who had newly 
 ben the Western Circuit to try the Monmouth conspirators, and had 
 formerly don such severe justice amongst the obnoxious in Westm 1 
 Hall, for which his Ma l > dignified him by creating him first a Baron, 
 and now Lord Chancellor. He had some years past ben conversant in 
 Deptford ; is of an assur'd and undaunted spirit, and has serv'd the 
 Court interest on all the hardiest occasions ; is of nature cruel and a 
 slave of the Court. 
 
 3 Nov. The French persecution of y e Protestants raging with the 
 utmost barbarity, exceeded even what y c very heathens us'd : innu- 
 merable persons of the greatest birth and riches leaving all their earthlv 
 substance, and hardly escaping with their lives, dispers'd thro' all the 
 countries of Europe. The French tyrant abrogated the Edict of Nantes 
 which had ben made in favour of them, and without any cause ; on a 
 suddaine demolishing all their Churches, banishing, imprisoning, and 
 sending to y e gallies all y e ministers ; plundering the common people, 
 and exposing them to all sorts of barbarous usage by souldiers sent to 
 mine and prey on them ; taking away their children ; forcing people to 
 y e Masse, and then executing them as relapsers ; they burnt their 
 libraries, pillag'd their goods, eate up their fields and substance, banish'd 
 or sent the people to y e gallies, and seiz'd on their estates. There had 
 now ben number'd to passe thro' Geneva onely (and that by stealth, 
 for all the usual passages were strictly guarded by sea and land) 40,000 
 towards Svvisserland. In Holland, Denmark, and all about Germany, 
 were dispers'd some hundred thousands ; besides those in England, 
 where though multitudes of all degrees sought for shelter and wellcome 
 as distressed Christians and Confessors, they found least encourage- 
 ment by a fatality of the times we were fallen into, and y e uncha- 
 ritable indifference of such as should have embrac'd them; and I pray it 
 
 vol. i. 4 K 
 
618 
 
 [16S5. 
 
 be not laid to our charge. The famous Claude fled to Holland, Allix * 
 and severall more came to London, and persons of greate estates came 
 over, who had forsaken all. France was almost dispeopled, the hankers 
 so broaken that y e Tyrant's revenue was exceedingly diminish'd, manu- 
 factures ceas'd, and every body there, save the Jesuites, abhorr'd what 
 was don, nor did the Papists themselves approve it. What the further 
 intention is time will shew, but doubtlesse portending some revo- 
 lution. I was shew'd the harangue w ch the Bishop of Valentia on 
 Rhone made in y e name of y e Cleargie, celebrating the French King, 
 as if he was a God, for persecuting the poore Protestants, with this ex- 
 pression in it, " That as his victory over heresy was greater than all the 
 " conquests of Alexander and Caesar, it was but what was wish'd in 
 " England ; and that God seem'd to raise the French King to this power 
 " and magnanimous action, that he might be in capacity to assist in 
 " doing the same here." This paragraph is very bold and remarkable ; 
 severall reflecting on Archbishop Usher's prophecy as now begun in 
 France, and approching the orthodox in all other reform'd churches. 
 One thing was much taken notice of, that the Gazettes which were 
 still constantly printed twice a weeke, informing us what was don all 
 over Europe, never spake of this wonderfull proceeding in France, nor 
 was any relation of it publish'd by any, save what private letters and 
 the persecuted fugitives brought : whence this silence I list not to con- 
 jecture, but it appear'd very extraordinary in a Protestant countrie that 
 we should know nothing of what Protestants suifer'd, whilst greate 
 collections were made for them in forreine places, more hospitable and 
 Christian to appearance. 
 
 5 Nov. It being an extraordinary wett morning, and myself indis- 
 posed by a very greate rheume, I did not go to church, to my very 
 greate sorrow, it being the first Gunpowder Conspiracy anniversary 
 that had ben kept now these 80 yeares under a prince of the Roman 
 
 * Mr. Peter Allix, a minister of the Reform'd Church at Charenton, came over with his whole 
 family, and met with great encouragement here. He was the author of several learned discourses 
 in defence of the Christian Religion in general, and of Protestantism in particular. His eldest son 
 John Peter Allix became D. D. and after passing through different preferments, was in 1*30 made 
 Dean of Ely, and died in 1*53, and was buried in his church of Castle Camps in Cambridgeshire. 
 
619 
 
 religion. Bonfires were forbidden on this day; what does this portend ! 
 
 9. Began the Parliament ; the King in his speech required con- 
 tinuance of a standing force instead of a militia, and indemnity and 
 dispensation to Popish officers from the Test ; demands very unexpected 
 and unpleasing to the Commons. He also requir'd a supply of revenue, 
 which they granted, but return'd no thanks to the King for his speech, 
 till farther consideration. 
 
 12. The Commons postpon'd finishing the bill for the supply, to 
 consider of the Test, and Popish officers ; this was carried but by one 
 voice. 
 
 14. I dined at Lambeth, my Lord Archbishop carrying me with 
 him in his barge : there were my Lord Deputy of Ireland, the Bp. of 
 Ely, and St. Asaph, Dr. Sherlock, and other divines ; Sir. W m Hay- 
 ward, Sir Paule Rycaut, &c. 
 
 20. The Parliament was adjourn'd to February, severall both of 
 Lords and Commons excepting against some passage of his Majesty's 
 speech relating to the Test, and continuance of Popish officers in com- 
 mand. This was a greate surprize in a Parliament which people be- 
 liev'd would have complied in all things. 
 
 Popish pamphlets and pictures sold publickly ; no books nor answers 
 to them appearing till long after. 
 
 21. I resign'd my trust for composing a difference between Mr. 
 Thynn and his wife. 
 
 22. Hitherto was a very wett warme season. 
 
 4 Dec. Lord Sunderland was declar'd President of y e Counsel, and 
 yet to hold his Secretarie's place. The forces dispos'd into severall 
 quarters thro' y e kingdome are very insolent, on w ch are greate com- 
 plaints. 
 
 Lord Brandon tried for the late conspiracy, was condemn'd and 
 pardon'd ; so was Lord Grey, his accuser and witnesse. 
 
 Persecution in France raging, the French insolently visite our ves- 
 sells, and take away the fugitive Protestants ; some escape in barrells. 
 
 10. To Greenwich, being put into the new Commission of Sewers. 
 
 13. D r Patrick, Dean of Peterborough, preach'd at White-hall 
 before y e Princesse of Denmark ; who since his Ma ty came to the 
 
620 [1685. 
 
 Crown, all ways sate in the King's closet, and had the same bowings 
 and ceremonies applied to the place where she was, as his Ma'y had 
 when there in person. 
 
 Dining at Mr. Pepys's, Dr. Slayer shewed us an experiment of a 
 wonderful nature, pouring first a very cold liquor into a glass, and 
 super-fusing on it another, to appearance cold and cleare liquor also ; 
 it first produced a white cloud, then boiling, divers corruscations and 
 actual flames of fire mingled with the liquor, which being a little 
 shaken together, fixed divers sunns and starrs of real fire, perfectly 
 globular, on the sides of the glasse, and which there stuck like so many 
 constellations, burning most vehemently, and resembling starrs and 
 heavenly bodies, and that for a long space. It seemed to exhibite a 
 theorie of the eduction of light out of the chaos, and the fixing or ga- 
 thering of the universal light into luminous bodys. This matter or 
 phosphorus was made out of human blood and urine, elucidating the 
 vital flame or heate in animal bodys. A very noble experiment. 
 
 16. I accompanied my Lord Lieutenant as far as St. Alban's, there 
 going out of towne with him neere 200 coaches of all the greate officers 
 and nobilitie. The next morning taking leave, I return'd to London. 
 
 18. I din'd at the greate entertainment his Ma^ gave y e Venetian 
 Ambassadors, Sign" Zenno and Justiniani, accompanied with 10 more 
 noble Venetians of their most illustrious families, Cornaro, Maccenigo, 
 &c. who came to congratulate their Ma tlLS coming to y e Crowne. The 
 dinner was most magnificent and plentifull, at four tables, with music, 
 kettle drums, and trumpets, w ch sounded upon a whistle at every health. 
 The banquet [desert] was 12 vast chargers pil'd up so high that those 
 who sat one against another could hardly see each other. Of these 
 sweetemeates, w ch doubtless were some days piling up in that exquisite 
 manner, the Ambassadors touch'd not, but leaving them to y e spec- 
 tators who came out of curiosity to see the dinner, were exceedingly 
 pleas'd to see in what a moment of time all that curious work was de- 
 molish'd, the comfitures voided, and the tables clear'd. Thus his Ma'* 
 entertain'd them three days, which (for the table only) cost him 
 ^600, as the Cleark of the Greene cloth (S r W m Boreman) assur'd 
 me. Dinner ended, I saw their procession or cavalcade to White-hall, 
 
1685.] 
 
 621 
 
 innumerable coaches attending. The two Ambass rs had 4 coaches of 
 their owne and 50 footemen (as I remember), besides other equipage 
 as splendid as y e occasion would permitt, the Court being still in mourn- 
 ing. Thence I went to the audience w ch they had in the Queene's 
 presence chamber, the Banquetting house being full of goods and fur- 
 niture till the galleries on the garden side, Council chamber, and new 
 Chapell now in building, were finish'd. They went to their audience 
 in those plain black gownes and caps which they constantly weare in 
 the Citty of Venice. I was invited to have accompanied the 2 Am- 
 bassadors in their coach to supper that night, returning now to their 
 own lodgings, as no longer at the King's expence ; but being weary I 
 excus'd myself. 
 
 19 Dec. My Lord Treasurer made me dine with him, where I 
 became acquainted with Mons r Barillon, the French Ambassador, a 
 learned and crafty advocate. 
 
 20. D r Turner, brother to y° Bp. of Ely, and sometime Tutor to 
 my son, preach'd at White-hall on 8 Mark 38, concerning y e submis- 
 sion of Christians to their persecutors, in w ch were some passages 
 indiscreete enough, considering y e time, and the rage of the inhumane 
 French tyrant against the poore Protestants. 
 
 22. Our patent for executing the office of Privy Seal during the 
 absence of the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, being this day seal'd by 
 the Lord Chancellor, we went afterwards to S 1 James's, where the 
 Court then was on occasion of building at White-hall ; his Ma 1 * deli- 
 ver'd the seale to my Lord Tiviot and myselfe, the other Commissioners 
 not being come, and then gave us his hand to kisse. There were the 
 two Venetian Ambassadors, and a world of company ; amongst the rest 
 the first Popish Nuncio* that had ben in England since the Reforma- 
 tion, so wonderfully were things chang'd, to the universal jealousy. 
 
 24. We were all three Commissioners sworne on our knees by the 
 Cleark of the Crowne, before my Lord Chancellor, three severall oathes ; 
 allegiance, supremacy, and the oath belonging to y e Lord Privy Seal, 
 w ch last we tooke standing. After this the Lord Chancellor invited us 
 
 * Ferdinand Count D'Ada, afterwards a Cardinal. There is a good mezzotinto print of him. 
 
622 
 
 all to dinner, but it being Christmas-eve we desir'd to be excus'd, in- 
 tending at three in y e afternoone to seale divers things which lay ready 
 at y e office ; so attended by three of y e Clearks of y e Signet, we met 
 and seal'd. Amongst other things was a pardon to West, who being 
 privy to the late conspiracy, had reveal'd the accomplices to save his 
 owne neck. There were also another pardon and two indenizations ; 
 and so agreeing to a fortnight's vacation, I return'd home. 
 
 31. Recollecting the passages of the yeare past, and made up ac- 
 compts, humbly besought Almighty God to pardon those my sinns 
 which had provoked him to discompose my sorrowfull family ; that he 
 would accept of our humiliation, and in his good time,restore comfort 
 to it. I also blest God for all his undeserved mercies and preservations, 
 begging the continuance of his grace and preservation. — The winter 
 had hitherto been extraordinary wett and mild. 
 
 1686. 1 Jan. Imploring y e continuance of God's providential care 
 for the yeare now entered, 1 went to the publiq devotions. The Deane 
 of the Chapell and Cleark of the Closset put out, viz. Bp. of London 
 and , and Rochester* and Durhamf put in their places ; the 
 
 former had oppos'd the toleration intended, and shewn a worthy zeale 
 for the Reform'd Religion as establish'd. 
 
 6. I din'd with y e Abp. of York, where was Peter Walsh, that 
 Romish Priest so well known for his moderation, professing the Church 
 of England to be a true member of the Catholic Church ; he is us'd to 
 go to our publiq prayers without scruple, and did not acknowledge the 
 Pope's infallibility, only primacy of order. 
 
 19. Passed the Privie Seale, amongst others, the creation of Mrs. 
 
 SedleyJ (concubine to ) Countesse of Dorchester, which the 
 
 Queene took very grievously, so as for two dinners, standing neere her 
 
 * Sprat. f Crewe. 
 
 X Catherine, daughter of Sir Charles Sedley, Bart, one of the famous knot of wits and cour- 
 tiers of King Charles's time — he was also a poet, and wrote some dramatic pieces. She had a 
 daughter by King James II. and was afterwards married to David Earl of Portmore, by whom she 
 had two sons, and died in 1717. Lord Dorset's well known verses, "Tell me, Dorinda, why so 
 gay," &c. are addressed to this lady. Her father's sarcasm when he voted for rilling up the vacant 
 throne with the Prince and Princess of Orange is well known ; " King James made my daughter 
 a Countess, and I have been helping to make his daughter a Queen." 
 
1686.] 623 
 
 I observed she hardly eate one morsel, nor spake one word to the King ? 
 or to any about her, tho' at other times she us'd to be extreamly plea- 
 sant, full of discourse and good humour. The Roman Catholics were 
 also very angry, because they had so long valu'd the sanctity of their 
 religion and proselytes. 
 
 Dryden the famous playwriter, and his two sonns, and Mrs. Nelly 
 
 (Misse to y e late ) were said to go to masse ; such proselytes were 
 
 no greate losse to the church. 
 
 This night was burnt to the ground my Lord Mountague's palace in 
 Bloomsbury, than w ch for painting and furniture there was nothing 
 more glorious in England. This happen'd by the negligence of a ser- 
 vant, airing, as they call it, some of the goods by the fire in a moist 
 season ; indeede so wet and mild a winter had scarce ben seene in 
 man's memory. 
 
 At this Seale there also pass'd the creation of S r H. Walgrave to be 
 a Peere. He had married one of the King's natural daughters by Mrs. 
 Churchill. These two Seales my brother Commissioners pass'd in the 
 morning before I came to towne, at w ch I was not displeas'd. We 
 likewise pass'd Privy Seales for ^8.2^6,000 upon severall accounts, 
 pensions, guards, wardrobes, privie purse, &c. besides divers pardons, 
 and one more \v ch I must not forget (and w cb by Providence I was not 
 present at) one Mr. Lytcott to be Secretary to the Ambassador to 
 Rome. We being three Commissioners, any two were a quorum. 
 
 21. I din'd at my Lady Arlington's, groome of the stole to the 
 Queene Dowager, at Somerset House, where din'd the Countesses of 
 Devonshire, Dover, &c. in all 1 1 ladys of quality, no man but myselfe 
 being there. 
 
 24. Unheard of cruelties to y c persecuted Protestants of France, 
 such as hardly any age has seene the like, even among the Pagans. 
 
 6 Feb. Being the day on vv ch his Ma ty began his reign, by order of 
 Council it was to be solemniz'd with a particular Office and Sermon, 
 which the Bp. of Ely* preach'd at White-hall on 11 Numb. 12; a 
 Court oration upon the Regal Office. It was much wonder'd at that 
 
 * Dr. Francis Turner. 
 
624 
 
 this day, \v ch was that of his late Ma 1 *'* death, should be kept as a fes- 
 tival, and not [instead of] the day of the present King's coronation. 
 It is said to have ben formerly y e costom, tho' not till now since y e 
 reigne of King James I. 
 
 The Dutchesse of Monmouth being in y e same seate with me at 
 church, appear'd with a very sad and afflicted countenance. 
 
 8. I tooke the Test in Westminster Hall, before the Lord Cheif 
 Justice. I now came to lodge at White-hall in the Lord Privy Seal's 
 lodgings. 
 
 12. My greate cause was heard by my Lord Chancellor, who 
 granted me a re-hearing. I had 6 eminent lawyers, my antagonists 3, 
 whereof one was the smooth-tong Solicitor*, whom my Lord Chan- 
 cellor reprov'd in greate passion for a very small occasion. Blessed be 
 God for his greate goodnesse to me this day. 
 
 19. Many bloody and notorious duels were fought about this time. 
 The Duke of Grafton kill'd Mr. Stanley, brother to the Earle of 
 [Derby], indeede upon an almost insufferable provocation. It is to be 
 hop'd his Ma l > will at last severely remedy this unchristian custome. 
 
 Lord Sunderland was now Secretary of State, President of the Coun- 
 cil, and Premier Minister. 
 
 1 March. Came Sir Gilbert Gerrard to treate with me about his 
 sonn's marrying my daughter Susanna. The father being obnoxious, 
 and in some suspicion and displeasure of the King, I would receive no 
 proposal till his Ma ,y had given me leave, w ch he was pleas'd to do ; 
 but after severall meetings we brake off on his not being willing to 
 secure any thing competent for my daughter's children ; besides that I 
 found most of his estate was in y e coal pits as far off as Newcastle, and 
 on leases from the Bishop of Durham, who had power to make con- 
 current leases, with other difficulties. 
 
 7- D r Frampton, Bp. of Gloucester, preach'd on 44 Psalm, 1/, 18, 
 19, shewing the severall afflictions of the Church of Christ from the 
 primitives to this day, applying exceedingly to the present conjuncture, 
 when many were wavering in their minds, and greate temptations 
 
 * Mr. Finch, called Silver-Tungue, from his manner of speaking. 
 
1686.] 
 
 625 
 
 appearing thro' the favour now found by the Papists, so as the people 
 were full of jealousies and discouragement. The Bp. magnified the 
 Church of England, exhorting to constancy and perseverance. 
 
 10. A Council of the Royal Society about disposing of D r Ray's 
 book of Fishes, which was printed at the expence of the Society. 
 
 12. A docquet was to be seal'd importing a lease of 21 yeares to 
 one Hall, who styl'd himselfe his Ma ,J ' s printer (he lately turn'd 
 Papist) for the printing Missalls, Offices, Lives of Saints, Portals, 
 Primers, &c. books expressly forbidden to be printed or sold, by divers 
 Acts of Parliament ; I refus'd to put the seale to it, making my excep- 
 tions, so it was laied by. 
 
 14. The Bp. of Bath and Wells* preach'd on 6 John 17, a most 
 excellent and pathetic discourse : after he had recommended the duty 
 of fasting and other penitential duties, he exhorted to constancy in the 
 Protestant religion, detestation of the unheard-of cruelties of the 
 French, and stirring up to a liberal contribution. This Sermon was 
 the more acceptable, as it was unexpected from a Bishop who had 
 undergon the censure of being inclin'd to Popery, the contrary whereof 
 no man could shew more. This indeede did all our Bishops, to the 
 disabusing and reproch of all their delators ; for none were more zeal- 
 lous against Popery than they were. 
 
 16. I was at a review of the Army about London, in Hide Park, 
 about 6000 horse and foote, in excellent order ; his Ma^ and infinity 
 of people being present. 
 
 17- I went to my house in the country, refusing to be present at 
 what was to passe at the Privy Seale the next day. In the morning 
 Dr. Tenison preached an incomparable discourse at White-hall, on 
 2 Timothy, 3, 4. 
 
 24. Dr. Cradock (Provost of Eaton) preached at the same place on 
 49 Psalm 13. shewing the vanity of earthly enjoyments. 
 
 28. D r White, Bp. of Peterboro', preach'd in a very eloquent style, 
 on 26 Matthew 29, submission to the will of God on all accidents and 
 at all times. 
 
 * Dr. Ken. 
 
 VOL. I. 4 L 
 
626 [1686. 
 
 29. The Duke of Northumberland (a natural son of the late King 
 by the Dutchess of Cleaveland) marrying very meanly, with the helpe 
 of his brother Grafton, attempted to spirit away his wife. 
 
 A Briefe was read in all Churches for relieving the French Protes- 
 tants who came here for protection from the unheard-of cruelties of 
 their King. 
 
 Aprill 2. Sir Edward Hales, a papist, made Governor of Dover 
 Castle *. 
 
 15. The Abp. of York f now died of y e small pox, aged 62, a cor- 
 pulent man. He was my special loving friend, and whilst Bp. of 
 Rochester (from whence he was translated) my excellent neighbour. 
 He was an unexpressible losse to y e whole church, and that province 
 especialy, he being a learned, wise, stoute, and most worthy prelate ; I 
 looke on this as a greate stroke to y e poore Church of England, now in 
 this defecting period. 
 
 18. In the afternoone I went to Camberwell to visit Dr. Parr. 
 After sermon I accompanied him to his house, where he shew'd me the 
 Life and Letters of the late learned Primate of Armagh (Usher), and 
 among them that letter of Bp. Bramhal's to the Primate, giving notice 
 of the Popish practices to pervert this Nation, by sending an hundred 
 priests into England, who were to conforme themselves to all sectaries 
 and conditions for the more easily dispersing their doctrine amongst us. 
 This letter was the cause of y e whole impression being seiz'd, upon 
 pretence that it was a political or historical account of things not re- 
 lating to theology, tho' it had ben licens'd by y° Bishop ; which plainely 
 shew'd what an interest the Papists now had, that a Protestant booke, 
 containing the life and letters of so eminent a man, was not to be pub- 
 lished. There were also many letters to and from most of y e learned 
 persons his correspondents in Europe. The book will, I doubt not, 
 struggle through this unjust impediment. 
 
 * Not taking the Test, his coachman was set up to inform againt him, and claim the 500/. 
 penalty. When this was to be brought to trial, the Judges were secretly asked their opinions, 
 and such as were not clear with the Court, were turned out. Half of them were dismissed. 
 Burnet, III. 1110, 1111. 
 
 f Dr. John Dolben. 
 
627 
 
 Several Judges were put out, and new complying ones put in. 
 
 25. This day was read in our church the Briefe for a collection for 
 reliefe of y e Protestant French, so cruely, barbarously and inhumanly 
 oppress'd without any thing laied to their charge. It had ben long 
 expected, and at last was with difficulty procur'd to be published, the 
 interest of the French Ambassador obstructing it. 
 
 5 May. There being a Seale it was fear'd we should be requir'd to 
 passe a doquett dispensing with D r Obadiah Walker and four more, 
 whereof one was an apostate curate of Putney *, y c others officers of 
 University College, Oxford, to hold their masterships, fellowships, and 
 cures, and keepe publiq schooles, and enjoy all former emoluments, 
 notwithstanding they no more frequented or us'd the public formes of 
 prayers or communion with y e Church of England, or took y e test and 
 oathes of allegiance and supremacy, contrary to 20 Acts of Parliament ; 
 which dispensation being also contrary to his Ma tv ' s owne gracious 
 declaration at y e beginning of his reigne, gave umbrage (as well it 
 might) to every good Protestant, nor could we safely have pass'd it 
 under the Privy Seale, wherefore it was done by immediate warrant, 
 sign'd by Mr. Solicitor. 
 
 This Walker was a learned person, of a monkish life, to whose 
 tuition I had more than 30 yeares since recommended the sonns of my 
 worthy friend Mr. Hyldyard of Horsly in Surry f, believing him to 
 be far from what he prov'd, an hypocritical conceal'd Papist, by w ch he 
 perverted the eldest sonn of Mr. Hyldyard, S r Edw d Hale's eldest sonn, 
 and severall more, to the greate disturbance of the whole Nation, as 
 well as of the University, as by his now publiq defection appear'd. All 
 engines being now at work to bring in Popery, w ch God in mercy 
 prevent ! 
 
 This day was burnt in the old Exchange, by the common hangman, 
 a translation of a booke written by y e famous Mons r Claude, relating 
 onely matters of fact concerning the horrid massacres and barbarous 
 
 * Edvv Sclater. From a Protestant he became a Roman Catholic ; and in 1689 he read his re- 
 cantation from that church, and again became a Protestant. Manning and Bray's Surrey, III. 300. 
 f See before, p. 259. 
 
628 [iG80. 
 
 proceedings of y e French King against his Protestant subjects, without 
 any refutation of any facts therein; so mighty a power and ascendant 
 here had the French Ambass', who was doubtlesse in greate indigna- 
 tion at the pious and truly generous charity of all the Natijn, for y e 
 reliefe of those miserable sufferers who came over for shelter. 
 
 About this time also the Duke of Savoy, instigated by y u French 
 King to extirpate the Protestants of Piedmont, slew many thousands 
 of those innocent people, so that there seem'd to be an universal 
 designe to destroy all that would not go to masse, throughout Europe. 
 Quod avertat D. O. Ml No faith in Princes ! 
 
 12. I refus'd to put the Privy Seale to D r Walker's licence for 
 printing and publishing divers Popish books, of which I complain'd 
 both to my Lord of Canterbury (with whom I went to advise in the 
 Council Chamber), and to my Lord Treasurer that evening at his 
 lodgings. My Lord of Canterbury's advice was, that I should follow 
 my owne conscience therein * ; Mr. Treasurer's, that if in conscience I 
 could dispense with it, for any other hazard he believ'd there was none. 
 Notwithstanding this I persisted in my refusal. 
 
 29. There was no sermon on this anniversary, as there usually had 
 ben ever since y e reigne of the present King. 
 
 2 June. Such storms, raine and foul weather, seldom known at 
 this time of the yeare. The camp at Hounslow Heath, from sicknesse 
 and other inconveniences of weather, forc'd to retire to quarters ; y e 
 storms being succeeded by excessive hot weather, many grew sick. 
 Greate feasting there, especialy in Lord Dunbarton's quarters. There 
 were many jealousies and discourses of what was the meaning of this 
 incampment. 
 
 A Seale this day, mostly pardons and discharges of Kn l Baronets 
 fees, w ch having ben pass'd over for so many yeares, did greatly dis- 
 oblige several families who had serv'd his Ma lv . Lord Tirconnell gon 
 to Ireland, with greate powers and commissions, giving as much cause 
 of talke as the camp, especialy 19 new privy councillors and judges 
 being now made, amongst w ch but three Protestants, and Tirconnell 
 made Generall. 
 
 * Sancj oft. Burnet describes him as a timid man. 
 
1686.] 629 
 
 New Judges also here, amongst w ch was Milton, a Papist (brother 
 to that Milton who wrote for y e Regicides), who presum'd to take his 
 place without passing y e Test* Scotland refuses to grant liberty of 
 masse to the Papists there. 
 
 The French persecution more inhuman than ever. The Protestants 
 in Savoy successfully resist the French dragoons sent to murder them. 
 
 The King's chiefe physician in Scotland apostatizing from the 
 Protestant religion, does of his own accord publish his recantation 
 at Edinburgh -j\ 
 
 11. I went to see Middleton's receptacle of water at the New 
 River, and the new Spa Wells neere. 
 
 20. An extraordinary season of violent and sudden raine. The 
 camp still in tents. 
 
 24. My Lord Treasurer settled my greate buisinesse with Mr. 
 Pretyman, to which I hope God will at last give a prosperous issue. 
 
 25. Now his Ma l >, beginning with D' Sharp and Tully, proceeded 
 to silence and suspend divers excellent divines for preaching against 
 Popery. 
 
 27. I had this day ben married 39 yeares — blessed be God for all 
 his mercies. 
 
 The new very young Lord Cheif Justice Herbert declar'd on y e 
 bench that the government of England was entirely in the King ; that 
 the Crown was absolute ; that penal laws were powers lodg'd in the 
 Crown to enable the King to force the execution of the law, but were 
 not bars to bind the King's power ; that he could pardon all offences 
 against the law, and forgive the penalties, and why could he not dis- 
 pense with them ? by which the Test was abolish'd. Every one was 
 
 * Christopher Milton made a Baron of the Exchequer. He did not hold his situation long, 
 and Dr. Johnson admits that from weakness of constitution he retired before he had done any 
 disreputable act. 
 
 f Sir Robert Sibbald, who was the most learned antiquary in Scotland, had lived in a course of 
 philosophical virtue, but in great doubt as to revealed religion, was prevailed on by the Earl of 
 Perth to turn Papist ; but he soon became ashamed of having done so on so little enquiry. He 
 went to London for some months, retiring from all company, and went into a deep course of 
 study, by which he came to see into the errors of Popery. He then returned to Scotland, and 
 published his recantation openly in a church. Burnet's Own Times, III. 1128. 
 
630 [i6S6. 
 
 astonish'd. Greate jealousies as to what would be the end of these 
 proceedings. 
 
 6 July. I supp'd with the Countesse of Rochester, where was also 
 the Dutchesse of Buckingham and Madame de Governe, whose daugh- 
 ter was married to y e Marquess of Halifax's sonn. She made me a 
 character of y e French King and Dauphin, and of y e persecution. That 
 they kept much of the cruelties from the King's knowledge ; that the 
 Dauphin was so afraid of his father, that he durst not let any thing 
 appeare of his sentiments ; that he hated letters and priests, spent all 
 his time in hunting, and seem'd to take no notice of what was passing. 
 
 This lady was of a greate family and fortune, and had fled hither 
 for refuge. 
 
 8. I waited on y e Abp. at Lambeth, where I din'd and met the 
 famous preacher and writer, D r Allix *, doubtlesse a most excellent 
 and learned person. The Abp. and he spoke Latin together, and that 
 very readily. 
 
 11. Dr. Meggot, Deane of Winchester, preach'd before the House- 
 hold in S l George's chapell at Windsor, y e late King's glorious chapell 
 now seiz'd on by the masse priests. D r Cartwright, Deane of Ripon, 
 preach'd before the greate men of the Court in the same place. 
 
 We had now the sad news of the Bp. of Oxford's -f death, an extra- 
 ordinary losse to the poore Church at this time. Many candidates 
 for his Bishoprick and Deanry, Dr. Parker, South, Aldrich, &c. 
 Dr. Walker (now apostatizing) came to Court, and was doubtlesse 
 very buisy. 
 
 13. Note, that standing by y e Queene at Bassett (Cards) 1 ob- 
 serv'd that she was exceedingly concern'd for y e losse of 80/. ; her 
 outward affability much chang'd to statelinesse, since she has ben 
 exalted. 
 
 The season very rainy and inconvenient for the Camps. His Ma tv 
 very cherefull. 
 
 14. Was seal'd at our office the Constitution of certaine Commis- 
 
 * Allix, of whom before under 1635. 
 
 t Dr. John Fell, also Deane of Christ Church. 
 
1686.] 631 
 
 sioners to take upon them the full power of all Ecclesiastical affairs, in 
 as unlimited a manner, or rather greater, than y e late High Commis- 
 sion Court, abrogated by Parliament ; for it had not onely faculty to 
 inspect and visite all Bishops dioceses, but to change what laws and 
 statutes they should think fit to alter among the Colledges, tho' 
 founded by private men; to punish, suspend, fine, &c. give oathes 
 and call witnesses. The maine drift was to suppresse zealous preachers. 
 In sum, it was y e whole power of a Vicar General — note y e conse- 
 quence ! Of the Cleargy the Commissioners were the Abp. of Canter- 
 bury [Sancroft], Bishops of Durham [Crew] and Rochester [Sprat] ; 
 of y e Temporals, the Lord Treasurer, the Lord Chancellor [Jefferies] 
 (who alone was ever to be of the quorum), the Cheife Justice [Herbert], 
 and Lord President [Earl of Sunderland]. 
 
 18. I went to see Sir John Chardin at Greenewich. 
 
 4 Aug'. I din'd at Sign 1 " Verrio's, y e famous Italian Painter, now 
 settled in his Ma^' s garden at St. James's, which he had made a very 
 del cious Paradise. 
 
 8. Our Vicar gone to dispose of his country living in Rutlandshire, 
 having St. Dunstan in y e East given him by the Abp. of Canterbury. 
 
 I went to visite^ 6 Marquess Ravigne, now my neighbour at Greene- 
 wich, retir'd from the persecution in France. He was the Deputy of 
 all y e Protestants of that kingdom in the Parliament of Paris, and 
 severall times Ambassador in this and other Courts ; a person of greate 
 learning and experience *. 
 
 8 Sept. Dr. Compton Bp. of London was on Monday suspended, 
 on pretence of not silencing Dr. Sharp of St. Giles's for something of a 
 sermon in which he zealously reprov'd the doctrine of the Roman Ca- 
 tholics. The Bishop having consulted the Civilians*, they told him he 
 could not by any Law proceed against Dr. Sharp without producing 
 witnesses, and impleading according to forme ; but it was over-rul'd by 
 my Lord Chancellor, and the Bishop sentene'd without so much as 
 being heard to any purpose. This was thought a very extraordinary 
 
 * His son was with King William in Ireland, anil was made Earl of Galway, but was dismissed 
 by violence of party, as being a Frenchman, though his conduct had been in every respect most, 
 excellent, as will be mentioned hereafter. 
 
632 
 
 [1686. 
 
 way of proceeding, and was universaly resented, and so much the 
 rather for that 2 Bishops, Durham* and Rochester^, sitting in the 
 Commission and giving their suffrages, the Abp. of Canterbury refus'd 
 to sit amongst them. He was only suspended ab officio, and that was 
 soone after taken off. He was brother to the Earl of Northampton, 
 had once ben a Souldier, had travelled in Italy, but became a sober, 
 grave, and excellent Prelate. 
 
 12. Buda now taken from y e Turks, a Form of Thanksgiving was 
 order'd to be us'd in the (as yet remaining) Protestant Chapells and 
 Church of White-hall and Windsor. 
 
 The King of Denmark was besieging Hambrow, no doubt by the 
 French contrivance, to embroile the Protestant Princes in a new warr, 
 that Holland, Sec. being ingag'd, matter for new quarrell might arise : 
 the unheard-of persecution of the poore Protestants still raging more 
 than ever. 
 
 22. The Danes retire from Hambrow, the Protestant Princes ap- 
 pearing for their succour, and the Emperor sending his Minatories to 
 the King of Denmark, and also requiring the restoration of the D. of 
 Saxe Gothorp. Thus it pleas'd God to defeate the French designes, 
 w ch were evidently to kindle a new warr. 
 
 14 Oct. His Ma tv ' s birth-day ; I was at his rising in his bed-cham- 
 ber, afterwards in the Parke, where 4 companies of Guards were drawn 
 up. The officers, &c. wonderful rich and gallant; they did not head 
 their troops, but their next officers, y e Colonels being on horseback by 
 the King whilst they march'd. The Ladys not lesse splendid at Court, 
 where there was a Ball at night, but small appearance of qualitie. All 
 the shops both in the Citty and Suburbs were shut up, and kept as so- 
 lemnly as any holyday. Bonefires at night in Westminster, but forbidden 
 in y e Citty. 
 
 17. Dr. Patric, Deane of Peterborow, preached at Covent Garden 
 Church on 5 Ephes. 18. 19. shewing the costbme of the primitive 
 Saints in serving God with Hymns, and their frequent use of them 
 upon all occasions : perstringing the profane way of mirth and intem- 
 
 * Crewe. 
 
 f Sprat : he afterwards would not sit. 
 
1686.] 633 
 
 perance of this ungodly age. Afterwards I visited my Lord Cheife 
 Justice of Ireland, with whom I had long and private discourse con- 
 cerning the miserable condition that kingdom was like to be in if 
 Tyrconnell's Councils should prevaile at Court. 
 
 23. Went with the Countesse of Sunderland to Cranbourn, a lodge 
 and walke of my Lord Godolphin's in Windsor Parke. There was 
 one room in the house spared in the pulling downe the old one, because 
 the late Dutchesse of York was borne in it ; the rest was built and 
 added to it by Sir Geo. Carteret, Treasurer of the Navy ; and since the 
 whole was purchas'd by my Lord Godolphin, who spake' to me to go 
 see it, and advise what trees were fit to be cut downe to improve the 
 dwelling, it being inviron'd with old rotten pollards, which corrupt the 
 aire. It stands on a knowle, which tho' insensibly rising, gives it a 
 prospect over the Keepe of Windsor, about three miles N. E. of it. 
 The ground is clayey and moist ; the water stark naught ; the park is 
 pretty ; the house tolerable, and gardens convenient. After dinner we 
 came back to London, having 2 coaches both going and coming, oft) 
 horses apiece, wf b we chang'd at Hounslow. 
 
 24 Oct. Dr. Warren preached before the Princesse at White-hall on 
 5 Matthew, of the blessedness of the pure in heart, most elegantly de- 
 scribing the blisse of the beatifical vision. In the afternoone S r Geo. 
 Wheeler kn* and bart. preach'd on the 4th Matt, upon the necessity of 
 repentance, at St. Margaret's, an honest and devout discourse, and 
 pretty tolerably perform'd. This gentleman coming from his travels 
 out of Greece fell in love with the daughter of S r Tho s Higgins, his 
 Ma tvs Resident at Venice, niece to the Earle of Bath, and married her. 
 When they return'd into England, being honour'd with knighthood, 
 he would needes turne Preacher, and tooke orders. He publish'd a 
 learned and ingenious book of his travels, and is a very worthy person, 
 a little formal and particular, but exceedingly devoute *. 
 
 * Sir George Wheeler was born whilst his parents were in exile at Breda for their attachment to 
 King Charles I. He was of Lincoln College, Oxford. On his return from his travels in Asia and 
 Greece he was knighted. Having presented several antiquities which he had collectedto the Uni- 
 versity of Oxford in 16S3, they gave him his degree of A. M. He took orders against the advice of 
 powerful friends, but from an earnest desire to be useful as a Parish Priest ; and he well fulfilled 
 
 VOL. I. 4 M 
 
634 [1686. 
 
 27. There was a triumphant shew of the Lord Maior both by land 
 and water, with much solemnity, when yet his power has ben so much 
 diminish'd, by the losse of the Citty's former charter. 
 
 5 Nov. I went to St. Martin's in the morning, where Dr. Birch 
 preach'd very boldly against the Papists, from 16 John 2. In the after- 
 noone I heard Dr. Tillotson in Lincoln's Inn Chapell, on the same 
 text, but more cautiously. 
 
 16. 1 went with part of my family to passe the melancholy winter 
 in London at my sonn's house in Arundel Buildings. 
 
 5 Dec. I dined at my Lady Arlington's, Groome of the Stole to 
 the Queene Dowager at Somerset House, where dined divers French 
 Noblemen, driven out of their Country by the persecution. 
 
 16. I carried the Countesse of Sunderland to see the rarities of one 
 Mr. Charleton in the Middle Temple, who shew'd us such a collection 
 as I had never seene in 'all my travels abroad, either of private gentle- 
 men or princes. It consisted of miniatures, drawings, shells, insects, 
 medailes, natural things, animals (of w ch divers, I think 100, were 
 kept in glasses of spirits of wine), minerals, precious stones, vessells, 
 curiosities in amber, christal, achat, &c. ; all being very perfect and 
 rare in their kind, especialy his bookes of birds, fish, flowers, and shells, 
 drawn and miniatur'd to the life. He told us that one book stood him 
 in ^£.300 ; it was painted by that excellent workman whom the late 
 Gaston Duke of Orleans emploied. This gentleman's whole collection, 
 gather'd by himselfe travelling over most parts of Europe, is estimated 
 at ,§£.8000. He appear'd to be a modest and obliging person *. 
 
 29. I went to heare the musiq of the Italians in the New Chapel, 
 now first open'd publickly at White-hall for the Popish service. No- 
 thing can be finer than the magnificent marble work and architecture 
 
 his intentions. He became Rector of Houghton-le-Spring in Durham, the living which had been 
 so exeinplarily filled by the " Northern Apostle" Bernard Gilpin, and whose example he worthily 
 followed. Bishop Crew also gave him a stall in Durham Cathedral. He died 18 January 1723. 
 His descendants are seated at Otterden in Kent. Mr. Surtees, "History of Durham" (1816), where 
 < a large account is given of him. 
 
 * This collection was afterwards purchased by Sir Hans Sloane, and now forms part of the 
 British Museum. Gent. Mag. Nov. 1816, p. 395, from Mr. Bagford's papers in the Brit. Mus. 
 
1686.] 635 
 
 at the end, where are four statues, representing St. John, St. Peter, St. 
 Paul, and the Church, in white marble, the work of Mr. Gibbons, 
 with all the carving and pillars of exquisite art and greate cost. The 
 altar-piece is the Salutation ; the volto in fresca, the Assumption of the 
 Blessed Virgin according to their tradition, with our Bl. Saviour, and 
 a world of figures, painted by Verrio. The throne where the King 
 and Queene sit is very glorious, in a closet above, just opposite to the 
 altar. Here we saw the Bishop in his mitre and rich copes, with 6 or 
 7 Jesuits and others in rich copes, sumptuously habited, often taking 
 off and putting on the Bishop's mitre, who sate in a chaire with armes 
 pontificaly, was ador'd and cens'd by 3 Jesuits in their copes ; then 
 he went to the altar and made divers cringes, then censing the images 
 and glorious tabernacle plac'd on the altar, and now and then changing 
 place : the crosier, w ch was of silver, was put into his hand with a world 
 of mysterious ceremony, the musiq playing, with singing. I could not 
 have believ'd I should ever have seene such things in the King of Eng- 
 land's Palace, after it had pleas'd God to enlighten this Nation ; but 
 our greate sin has, for the present, eclips'd the blessing, w ch 1 hope He 
 will in mercy and his good time restore to its purity. 
 Little appearance of any Winter as yet. 
 
 1687. 1 Jan. Mr. Wake preach'd at St. Martin's on 1 Tim. 3. 16. 
 concerning the mysterie of Godlinesse. He wrote excellently in answer 
 to the Bishop of Meaux. 
 
 3. A seal to confirm a gift of ,§£4000 per annum for 99 yeares to the 
 Lord Treasurer out of the Pest Office, and ^BAJOOper annum for ever 
 out of Lord Gray's estate. 
 
 There was now another change of the greate Officers. The Treasury 
 was put into Commission, two profess'd Papists amongst them, viz. 
 Lords Bellasis and Dover, joyn'd with the old ones, Lord Godolphin, 
 Sir Stephen Fox, and Sir J. Earnley. 
 
 17. Much expectation of severall greate men declaring themselves 
 Papists. Lord Tyrconnell gone to succeed the Lord Lieutenant [Cla- 
 rendon] in Ireland, to the astonishment of all sober men, and to the 
 evident ruine of the Protestants in that Kingdom, as well as of its 
 greate improvement going on. Much discourse that all the White Staff 
 
636 [1687. 
 
 Officers and others should be dismiss'd for adhering to their Religion. 
 Popish Justices of the Peace establish'd in all Counties, of the meanest 
 of the people ; Judges ignorant of the Law, and perverting it — so 
 furiously do the Jesuits drive, and even compel Princes to violent 
 courses, and destruction of an excellent Government both in Church 
 and State. God of his infinite mercy open our eyes and turn our 
 hearts, and establish his truth with peace ! The Lord Jesus defend 
 his little Flock, and preserve this threaten'd Church and Nation. 
 
 24. I saw the Queenes new apartment at White-hall, with her new 
 bed, the embrodery of w ch cost ^.3000. The carving abovit the chim- 
 ney-piece, by Gibbons, is incomparable. 
 
 30. I heard the famous eunuch Cifaccio sing in the new Popish 
 Chapell this afternoone ; it was indeede very rare, and with greate 
 skill. He came over from Rome, esteemed one of the best voices in 
 Italy. Much crowding — little devotion. 
 
 27 Feb. Mr. Chetwin preached at White-hall on 1 Rom. 18, a very 
 quaint neate discourse of moral righteousnesse. 
 
 2 March. Came out a Proclamation for universal liberty of con- 
 science in Scotland, and dispensation from all tests and lawes to the 
 contrary, as also capacitating Papists to be chosen into all offices of 
 trust. The mysterie operates. 
 
 3. Dr. Megot Deane of Winchester preached before the Princesse 
 of Denmark on 14 Matt. 23. In the afternoone I went out of towne to 
 meete my Lord Clarendon, returning from Ireland. 
 
 10. His Ma ty sent for the Commissioners of the Privy Seale this 
 morning into his bed-chamber, and told us that tho' he had thought fit 
 to dispose of the seale into a single hand, yet he would so provide for 
 us as it should appeare how well he accepted our faithfull and loyal 
 service, with many gracious expressions to this effect ; upon w cb we 
 deliver' d the seale into his hands. It was by all the world both hoped 
 and expected that he would have restor'd it to my Lord Clarendon ; 
 but they were astonish'd to see it given to Lord Arundel of Wardour, 
 a zealous Roman Catholic. Indeede it was very hard, and look'd very 
 unkindly, his Ma ty (as my Lord Clarendon protested to me, on my 
 going to visite him and long discoursing with him about the affaires of 
 
1687.] 637 
 
 Ireland) finding not the least failure of duty in him during his govern- 
 ment of that kingdom, so that his recall plainely appeared to be 
 from the stronger influence of the Papists, who now got all the pre- 
 ferments. 
 
 Most of the greate Officers, both in the Court and Country, Lords 
 and others, were dismiss'd, as they would not promise his Majesty their 
 consent to the repeal of the Test and penal Statutes against Popish Re- 
 cusants. To this end most of the Parliament men were spoken to in 
 his Ma tys closset, and such as refus'd, if in any place or office of trust, 
 civil or military, were put out of their employments. This was a time 
 of greate trial, but hardly one of them assented, which put the Popish 
 interest much backward. The English Cleargy every where preach'd 
 boldly against their superstition and errors, and were wonderfully fol- 
 low'd by the People. Not one considerable proselyte was made in all 
 this time. The party were exceedingly put to the worst by the preach- 
 ing and writing of the Protestants in many excellent treatises, evincing 
 the doctrine and discipline of the Reform'd Religion, to the manifest 
 disadvantage of their adversaries. To this did not a little contribute the 
 sermon preach'd at White-hall before the Princesse of Denmark and a 
 great croud of People, and at least 30 of the greatest Nobility, by Dr. 
 Ken, Bishop of Bath and Wells, on 8 John 46 (the Gospel of the day) 
 describing thro' his whole discourse the blasphemies, perfidy, wresting 
 of Scripture, preference of tradition before it, spirit of persecution, su- 
 perstition, legends and fables of the Scribes and Pharisees, so that all 
 the auditory understood his meaning of a parallel between them and the 
 Romish Priests, and their new Trent Religion. He exhorted his au- 
 dience to adhere to the written Word, and to persevere in the Faith 
 taught in the Church of England, whose doctrine for Catholic and 
 soundness he preferr'd to all the Communities and Churches of 
 Christians in the world ; concluding with a kind of prophesy, that 
 whatever it sufFer'd, it should after a short trial emerge to the confusion 
 of her adversaries, and the glory of God. 
 
 I went this evening to see the order of the boys and children at 
 Christ's Hospital. There were neere 800 boys and girls so decently 
 clad, cleanly lodg'd, so wholesomly fed, so admirably taught, some the 
 
638 [i68 7 . 
 
 Mathematics, especialy the 40 of the late King's foundation, that I 
 was delighted to see the progresse some little youths of 13 and 14 
 yeares of age had made. I saw them at supper, visited their dormito- 
 ries, and much admir'd the order, ceconomy, and excellent government 
 of this most charitable seminary. Some are taught for the Universities, 
 others design'd for Seamen, all for Trades and Callings. The girles are 
 instructed in all such worke as becomes their sex and may fit them for- 
 good wives, mistresses, and to be a blessing to their generation. They 
 sung a psalme before they sat downe to supper in the greate hall, to an 
 organ, which play'd all the time, with such cheerfull harmony that it 
 seem'd to me a vision of angels. I came from the place with infinite 
 satisfaction, having never seene a more noble, pious and admirable 
 Charity. All these consisted of orphans onely *. The Foundation was 
 of that pious Prince K. Edw. 6. whose picture (held to be an original 
 of Holbein) is in the Court where the Governors rneete to consult on 
 the affaires of the Hospital, and his statue in white marble stands in a 
 nich of the wall below, as you go to the Church, which is a modern, 
 noble and ample fabric. This Foundation has had, and still has, many 
 Benefactors. 
 
 16 March. I saw a trial of those devilish murdering mischief-doing 
 engines called Bombs, shot out of the morter-piece on Black-heath. 
 The distance that they are cast, the destruction they make where they 
 fall, is prodigious. 
 
 20. The Bishop of Bath and Wells (Dr. Ken) preach'd at St. Mar- 
 tines to a crowd of people not to be express'd, nor the wonderful elo- 
 quence of this admirable preacher ; the text was 26 Matt. 36 to verse 
 40. describing the bitterness of our Bl. Saviour's agony, the ardour of 
 his love, the infinite obligations we have to imitate his patience and 
 resignation : the means by watching against temptations, and over our- 
 selves, with fervent prayer to attaine it, and the exceeding reward in the 
 end. Upon all which he made most patheticall discourses. The Com- 
 munion followed, at which I was participant. I afterwards din'd at 
 Dr. Tenison's with the Bishop and that young, most learned, pious and 
 
 * This is by no means the case' now (1816.) 
 
1687.] 639 
 
 excellent preacher, Mr. Wake *, In the afternoone I went to heare 
 Mr. Wake at the new-built church of St. Anne, on 8 Mark 34. upon 
 the subject of taking-up the Crosse, and strenuously behaving ourselves 
 in time of persecution, as this now threaten'd to be. 
 
 His Ma tv againe prorogu'd the Parliament, foreseeing it would not 
 remitt the Laws against Papists, by the extraordinary zeale and bravery 
 of its Members, and the free renunciation of the greate Officers both in 
 Court and State, who would not be prevail'd with for any temporal 
 concerne. 
 
 25. Good Friday. Dr. Tenison preached at St. Martines, on 1 
 Peter 2. 24. During the service a man came into neere the middle of 
 the church, with his sword drawne, with severall others in that posture; 
 in this jealous time it put the congregation into greate confusion ; but 
 it appear'd to be one who fled for sanctuary, being pursued by Bayliffs. 
 
 8 April. I had a re-hearing of my great Cause at the Chancery in 
 Westm r Hall, having 7 °f the most learned Council, my adversary 5, 
 among w ch were the Attorney General and late Solicitor Finch, son 
 to the Lord Chancellor Nottingham. The accompt was at last brought 
 to one article of the surcharge, and referr'd to a Master. The Cause 
 lasted two hours and more. 
 
 10. In the last weeke there was issu'd a Dispensation from all obli- 
 gations and tests, by which Dissenters and Papists especialy had publiq 
 liberty of exercising their severall ways of worship without incurring 
 the penalty of the many Laws and Acts of Parliament to the contrary. 
 This was purely obtain'd by the Papists, thinking thereby to mine the 
 Church of England, being now the onely Church which so admirably 
 and strenuously oppos'd their superstition. There was a wonderful 
 concourse of people at the Dissenters' Meeting-house in this parish, 
 and the Parish Church [Deptford^ left exceeding thin. What this will 
 end in, God Almighty onely knows, but it looks like confusion, which I 
 pray God avert. 
 
 11. To London about my suit, some terms of accommodation being 
 propos'd. 
 
 * Afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury. 
 
640 [168:. 
 
 19. I heard the famous singer Cifaccio, esteem'd the best in 
 Europe. Indeed his holding out and delicateness in extending and 
 looseing a note with incomparable softnesse and sweetnesse was ad- 
 mirable ; for the rest I found him a mere wanton, effeminate child, 
 very coy, and proudly conceited to my apprehension. He touch'd the 
 harpsichord to his voice rarely well. This was before a select number 
 of particular persons whom Mr. Pepys invited to his house ; and this 
 was obtain'd by particular favour and much difficulty, the Signor much 
 disdaining to shew his talent to any but princes. 
 
 24. At Greenewich, at the conclusion of the Church service, there 
 was a French sermon preach'd after the use of the English Liturgy 
 translated into French, to a congregation of about 100 French Refu- 
 gees, of whom Mons r Ruvigny was the cheife, and had obtain'd the 
 use of the Church after the Parish service was ended. The Preacher 
 patheticaly exhorted to patience, constancy, and reliance on God amidst 
 all their sufferings, and the infinite rewards to come. 
 
 2 May. I din'd with Mynheer Diskvelts, the Holland Ambass r , a 
 prudent and worthy person. There din'd Lord Middleton principal 
 Secretary of State, Lord Pembroke, Lord Lumley, Lord Preston, Col. 
 Fitz Patrick, and Sir John Chardin. After dinner the Ambass 1- dis- 
 cours'd of and deplor'd the stupid folly of our politics, in suffering the 
 French to take Luxemburg, it being a place of the most concern to 
 have ben defended, for the interest not onely of the Netherlands, but of 
 England. 
 
 12. To London. Lord Sunderland being Lord President and 
 Secretary of State, was made Kn* of the Garter and prime favorite. — 
 This day there was such a storme of wind as had seldome happen'd, 
 being a sort of hurricane. It kept the flood out of the Thames, so that 
 people went on foote over several places above bridge. Also an earth- 
 quake in severall places in England about the time of the storme. 
 
 26. To London about my agreement with Mr. Pretyman after my 
 tedious suit. 
 
 2 June. I went to London, it having pleas'd his Ma^ to grant me 
 a Privy Seal for ^.6000, for discharge of the debt I had ben so many 
 yeares persecuted for, it being indeede for mony drawne over by my 
 
168:.] 641 
 
 father in la\vS r R. Browne, during his residence in the Court of France, 
 and so with a much greater sum due to Sir Rich d from his Ma l > ; and 
 now this part of the arreare being paid, there remains yet due to me, as 
 executor of S r Rich' 1 , above ,§£6500 more ; but this determining an 
 expensive chancery suit has ben so greate a mercy and providence to me 
 (thro' the kindness and friendship to me of Lord Godolphin, one of 
 the Lords Commissioners of the Treasury) that I do acknowledge it 
 with all imaginable thanks to my gracious God. 
 
 6 June. I visited my Lady Pierpoint, daughter to Sir John Evelyn 
 of Deane [in Wilts], now widow of M r Pierpoint, and mother of the 
 Earl of Kingston. She was now engag'd in the marriage of my cousin 
 Evelyn Pierpoint, her second son. 
 
 There was about this time brought into the Downs a vast treasure, 
 w ch was sunk in a Spanish galloon about 45 years ago somewhere 
 neere Hispaniola or the Bahama islands, and was now weigh'd up by 
 some gentlemen, who were at the charge of divers, &c. to the enrich- 
 ing them beyond all expectation. The Duke of Albemarle's* share 
 [Governor of Jamaica] came to, I believe, ,^.50,000. Some private 
 gentlemen who adventur'd ^=.100 gain'd from 8 to ,^.10,000. His 
 Majesty's tenth was ^.10,000. 
 
 The Camp was now againe pitch'd at Hounslow, the Commanders 
 profusely vying in the expence and magnificence of tents. 
 
 12. Our Vicar preached on 2 Peter 2, 21, upon the danger of 
 relapsing into sin. After this I went and heard M. Lamot, an eloquent 
 French preacher at Greene wich, on 30 Prov. 8, 9, a consolatory dis- 
 course to the poore and religious refugees who escaped out of France in 
 the cruel persecution. 
 
 16. I went to Hampton Court to give his Ma ty thanks for his late 
 gracious favor, tho' it was but granting what was due. Whilst I was 
 in the Council Chamber, came in some persons at the head of whom 
 was a formal man with a large roll of parchment in his hand, being an 
 
 * The Duke's share amounted to considerably more — it was said about a^9(),000. A medal 
 was struck on this occasion, which is engrav'd in Mr. Evelyn's book on that subject, No. 
 LXXXVII. p. 151. 
 
 VOL. I. 4 N 
 
642 [1687- 
 
 Addresse (as he said, for he introduc'd it with a speech) of the people 
 of Coventry giving his Ma^ their greate acknowledgments for his 
 granting a liberty of conscience ; he added that this was not the appli- 
 cation of one party onely, but the unanimous addresse of Church of 
 England men, Presbyterians, Independents and Anabaptists, to shew 
 how extensive his Ma l >' s grace was, as taking in all parties to his in- 
 dulgence and protection, which had taken away all dissentions and 
 animosities, w ch would not onely unite them in bonds of Christian 
 charity, but exceedingly encourage their future industry, to the im- 
 provement of trade, and spreading his Ma^' s glory throughout the 
 world ; and that now he had given to God his empire, God would 
 establish his; with expressions of greate loyaltie and submission; and so 
 he gave the roll to the King, w ch being return'd to him againe his Ma^ 
 caus'd him to read. The Addresse was short, but much to the sub- 
 stance of y e Speech of their foreman, to whom the King, pulling off 
 his hat, sayd, that what he had don in giving liberty of conscience, 
 was, what was ever his judgment ought to be don ; and that as he 
 would preserve them in their enjoyment of it during his reigne, so he 
 would indeavour to settle it by Law, that it should never be alter'd by 
 his successors. After this he gave them his hand to kisse. It was 
 reported the subscribers were above 1000. 
 
 But this is not so remarkable as an Addresse of the weeke before (as 
 I was assur'd by one present) of some of the Family of Love. His 
 Ma ty ask'd them what this worship consisted in, and how many their 
 party might consist of ; they told him their custom was to reade the 
 Scripture and then to preach, but did not give any farther account, 
 onely sayd that for the rest they were a sort of refin'd Quakers, but 
 their number very small, not consisting, as they sayd, of above three- 
 score in all, and those chiefly belonging to the Isle of Ely. 
 
 18. I din'd at Mr. Blathwaite's (2 miles from Hampton). This gen- 
 tleman is Secretary of War, Clerk of the Counsel, &c. having rais'd 
 himselfe by his industry from very moderate circumstances. He is a 
 very proper, handsome person, and very dextrous in buisinesse, and be- 
 sides all this, has married a greate fortune. His income by the Army, 
 Counsel, and Secretary to y e Committee of forraine plantations, brings 
 him in above ^.2000 per ann. 
 
1687.] 
 
 643 
 
 23. The privy seale for ,^.6000 was pass'd to me, so that this 
 tedious affaire was dispatch'd. Hitherto a very windy and tempestuous 
 summer. — The French sermons to the refugees were continu'd at 
 Greenewich Church. 
 
 19 July. I went to Wotton. In the way I din'd at Ashted with my 
 Lady Mordaunt. 
 
 5 Aug. I went to see Albury, now purchas'd by Mr. Finch (the 
 King's Solicitor, and son to the late Lord Chancellor) ; I found the 
 garden w ch I first design'd for the Duke of Norfolk, nothing improv'd. 
 
 15. I went to visite Lord Clarendon at Swallow-field, where was 
 my Lord Cornbery just ariv'd from Denmark, whither he had accom- 
 panied the Prince of Denmark two months before, and now come back. 
 The miserable tyranny under which that nation lives he related to us ; 
 the King keeps them under by an army of 40,000 men, all Germans, 
 he not daring to trust his owne subjects. Notwithstanding this, the 
 Danes are exceeding proud, the country very poore and miserable. 
 
 22. Returned home to Says Court from Wotton, having ben five 
 weekes absent with my brother and friends, who entertained us very 
 nobly. God be praised for his goodnesse, and this refreshment after my 
 many troubles, and let his mercy and providence ever preserve me. Amen. 
 
 3 Sept. The Lord Mayor sent me an Officer with a Staff, to be one 
 of the Governors of S l Thomas's Hospital. 
 
 Persecution raging in France ; divers churches there fir'd by light- 
 ning, Priests struck, consecrated hosts, &c. burnt and destroy'd, both 
 at S l Malo's and Paris, at y° grand procession on Corpus Christi day. 
 
 13. I went to Lambeth, and din'd with the Abp. After dinner I 
 retired into the library, which I found exceedingly improv'd ; there are 
 also divers rare manuscripts in a roome apart. 
 
 6 Oct. I was godfather to S John Chardin's sonn, christen'd at 
 Greenewich Church, nam'd John. The Earle of Bath and Countesse 
 of Carlisle, the other Sponsors. 
 
 29. An Anabaptist, a very odd ignorant person, a mechanic I think, 
 was Lord Mayor *. The King and Queene, and Dadi f the Pope's 
 
 * Sir John Peake. 
 
 t Count D'Ada, made afterwards a Cardinal for his services in this embassy. 
 
644 
 
 [i68 7 . 
 
 Nuncio, invited to feast at Guildhall. A strange turne of affaires, that 
 those who scandaliz'd the Church of England as favourers of Popery, 
 should publiqly invite an emissary from Rome, one who represented 
 the very person of their Antichrist ! 
 
 10 Dec. My son was return'd out of Devon, where he had ben on 
 a Commission from the Lords of the Treasury, about a concealment of 
 land. 
 
 20. I went with my Lord Cheife Justice Herbert to see his house 
 at Walton on Thames * : it is a barren place. To a very ordinary house 
 he had built a very handsome library, designing more building to it 
 than the place deserves in my opinion. He desir'd my advice about 
 laying out his gardens, &c. The next day we went to Weybridge to 
 see some pictures of the Dutchesse of Norfolk's, particularly the statue, 
 or child in gremio, said to be of Mich. Angelo, but there are reasons 
 to think it rather a copy, from some proportion in the figures ill taken. 
 It was now expos'd to sale. 
 
 1688. 12 Jan. Mr. Slingsby, Master of the Mint, being under 
 very deplorable circumstances on account of his creditors, and epe- 
 cialy the King, I did my endeavor with y e Lords of the Treasury to 
 be favourable to him. 
 
 My Lord Arran, eldest son to the Duke of Hamilton, being now 
 married to Lady Ann Spencer, eldest daughter of the Earle of Sunder- 
 land, Lord President of the Council, I and my family had most glorious 
 favours sent us, the wedding being celebrated with extraordinary splen- 
 dour. 
 
 15. There was a solemne and particular Office us'd at our, and all 
 the Churches of London and 10 miles round, for a thanksgiving to God, 
 for her Majesty being with child. 
 
 22. This afternoone I went not to Church, being employed on a 
 religious treatise I had undertaken f. 
 
 * This is a mistake ; the house was Oatlands in Weybridge. He followed the fortunes of King 
 James, who gave him his great seal. He was attainted, and Oatlands given to his brother Adm. 
 Herbert. He published an apology for the judgment he had given in favour of the King's dispens- 
 ing powers, which was answered by Mr. Atwood and sir Robert Atkins. Manning and Bray's Hist, 
 of Surrey, II. 786. 
 
 f What this was does not appeal' ; but there are several of his composition, remaining in MS. 
 
16"88.] 645 
 
 Post annum 1588—1660—1688, Annus Mirabilis Tertius*. 
 
 Jan. 30. Being the Martyrdome day of K. Charles y' First, our Curate 
 made a florid oration against the murder of that excellent Prince, with 
 an exhortation to obedience from the example of David, 1 Samuel 24, 6. 
 
 12 Feb. My daughter Evelyn going in the coach to visite in the 
 Citty, a jolt (the doore being not fast shut) flung her quite out in such 
 manner as the hind wheeles passed over her a little above her knees. Yet 
 it pleased God besides the bruises of the wheeles she had no other 
 harme. In two days she was able to walke, and soone after perfectly 
 well ; thro' God Almighty's greate mercy to an excellent wife and a 
 most dutiful and discreete daughter-in-law. 
 
 17. I receiv'd the sad news of my niece Mountague's death at 
 Woodcot on the 15th. 
 
 15 Mar. I gave in my account about the Sick and Wounded, in order 
 to have my quietus. 
 
 23. Dr. Parker, Bishop of Oxford, who so lately publish'd his 
 extravagant treatise about transubstantiation, and for abrogating the 
 Test and Penal Laws, died. He was esteem 'd a violent, passionate, 
 haughty man, but yet being press'd to declare for the Church of Rome, 
 he utterly refus'd it. A remarkable end. 
 
 The French Tyrant now finding he could make no proselytes amongst 
 those Protestants of quality, and others, whom he had caus'd to be 
 shut up in dungeons, and confin'd to nunneries and monasteries, gave 
 them, after so long trial, a general releasement, and leave to go out of 
 the kingdom, but utterly taking away their estates, and their children; 
 so that greate numbers came daily into England and other places, where 
 they were receiv'd and reliev'd with very considerate Christian charity. 
 This Providence and goodnesse of God to those who thus constantly 
 held out, did so work upon those miserable poore souls, who, to avoyd 
 the persecution sign'd their renunciation, and to save their estates went 
 to masse, that reflecting on what they had don, they grew so affected 
 in their conscience, that not being able to support it, they in greate 
 numbers thro' all the French provinces, acquainted the Magistrates and 
 
 This seems added after the page was written. 
 
646 
 
 [1688. 
 
 Lieutenants that, being sorry for their apostacy, they were resolv'd to 
 return to their old religion ; that they would go no more to masse, but 
 peaceably assemble when they could, to beg pardon and worship God, 
 but so without weapons as not to give the least umbrage of rebellion 
 or sedition, imploring their pity and commiseration ; and accordingly 
 meeting so from time to time, the dragoon missioners, Popish officers 
 and priests, fell upon them, murder'd and put them to death, whoever 
 they could lay hold on ; they without the least resistance embraced death, 
 torture or hanging, with singing psalmes and praying for their perse- 
 cutors to the last breath, yet still continuing the former assembling of 
 themselves in desolate places, suffering with incredible constancy, that 
 thro' God's mercy they might obtain pardon for this lapse. Such ex- 
 amples of Christian behaviour have not ben seen since the primitive 
 persecutions ; and doubtlesse God will do some signal worke in the end, 
 if we can with patience and resignation hold out, and depend on his 
 Providence. 
 
 24 Mar. I went with S r Charles Littleton to Sheene, an house and 
 estate given him by Lord Brouncker ; one who was ever noted for a 
 hard, covetous, vicious man, but for his worldly craft and skill in 
 gaming few exceeded him. Coming to die, he bequeath'd all his land, 
 house, furniture, &c. to Sir Charles, to whom he had no manner of re- 
 lation, but an ancient friendship contracted at the famous siege of Col- 
 chester, 40 yeares before. It is a pretty place, with fine gardens, and 
 well planted, and given to one worthy of them, Sir Charles being an 
 honest gentleman and souldier. He is brother to Sir Henry Littleton 
 of Worcestershire, whose greate estate he is likely to inherit, his bro- 
 ther being without children. They are descendants of the great lawyer 
 of that name, and give the same arms and motto. He is married to 
 one Mrs. Temple, formerly maide of honour to the late Queene, a 
 beautiful lady, and he has many fine children, so that none envy his 
 good fortune. 
 
 After dinner we went to see S r W" 1 Temple's neere to it ; the most 
 remarkable things are his orangerie and gardens, where the wall fruit 
 trees are most exquisitely nail'd and train'd, far better than I ever noted. 
 
 \ 
 
1688.] 647 
 
 There are many good pictures, especialy of Vandyke's, in both these 
 houses, and some few statues and small busts in the latter. 
 
 From thence we went to Kew, to visite Sir Henry Capell's, whose 
 orangerie and myrtelum are most beautifull and perfectly well kept. 
 He was contriving very high palisados of reeds to shade his oranges 
 during the summer, and painting those reeds in oil. 
 
 1 April. In the morning the first sermon was by Dr. Stillingfleet 
 Dean of St. Paul's (at Whitehall) on 10 Luke 41 , 42. The holy Com- 
 munion follow'd, but was so interrupted by the rude breaking in of 
 multitudes zealous to hear the second sermon, to be preach'd by the 
 Bp. of Bath and Wells, that the latter part of that holy office could 
 hardly be heard, or the sacred elements be distributed without greate 
 trouble. The Princesse being come, he preach'd on 7 Mich. 8. 9. 10. 
 describing the calamity of the Reform'd church of Judah under the 
 Babylonian persecution, for her sins, and God's delivery of her on her 
 repentance ; that as Judah emerg'd so should the now Reform'd 
 Church, wherever insulted and persecuted. He preach'd with his ac- 
 custom'd action, zeal, and energy, so that people flock'd from all quar- 
 ters to heare him. 
 
 15 April. A dry, cold, backward spring, easterly winds. 
 
 The persecution still raging in France, multitudes of Protestants, and 
 many very considerable and greate persons flying hither, produc'd a se- 
 cond general contribution, the Papists, by God's Providence, as yet 
 making small progress amongst us. 
 
 29. The weather was, till now, so cold and sharp, by an almost 
 perpetual East wind, which had continued many monthes, that there 
 was little appearance of any Spring, and yet the Winter was very fa- 
 vourable as to frost and snow. 
 
 2 May. To London about my petition for allowances upon the ac- 
 count of Commissioner for sick and wounded in the former war with 
 Holland. 
 
 8. His Ma tv , alarm'd by the greate fleete of the Dutch (whilst we 
 had a very inconsiderable one), went down to Chatham ; their fleete 
 was well prepar'd, and out, before we were in any readinesse, or had 
 any considerable number to have encounter'd them had there ben occa- 
 
648 
 
 [1688. 
 
 sion, to the great reproch of the Nation ; whilst being in profound peace, 
 there was a mighty land army, w ch there was no neede of, and no force 
 at sea, where only was the apprehension ; but the army was doubtless 
 kept and increas'd in order to bring in and countenance Popery, the 
 King beginning to discover his intentions, by many instances persued 
 by the Jesuits, against his first resolution to alter nothing in the 
 Church establishment, so that it appear'd there can be no reliance on 
 Popish promises. 
 
 18. The King injoyning the ministers to read his Declaration for 
 giving liberty of conscience (as it was sty I'd) in all the Churches of 
 England, this evening 6 Bishops, Bath and Wells*, Peterborough f, 
 Ely^, Chichester§, S l Asaph||, and Bristol^, in the name of all the 
 rest of the Bishops, came to his Ma ty to petition him that he would not 
 impose the reading of it to the several congregations within their dio- 
 cesses; not that they were averse to the publishing of it for want of due 
 tendernesse towards Dissenters, in relation to whom they should be 
 willing to come to such a temper as should be thought fit, when that 
 matter might be consider'd and settl'd in Parliament and Convocation ; 
 but that, the Declaration being founded on such a dispensing power as 
 might at pleasure set aside all Laws Ecclesiastical and Civil, it appear'd 
 to them illegal, as it had done to the Parliament in 1661 and 1672, 
 and that it was a point of such consequence, that they could not so far 
 make themselves parties to it, as the reading of it in Church in time of 
 divine service amounted to. 
 
 The King was so far incens'd at this addresse, that he with threaten- 
 ing expressions commanded them to obey him in reading it at their 
 perils, and so dismiss'd them. 
 
 20. I went to White-hall Chapell, where, after the morning les- 
 sons, the Declaration was read by one of y c Choir who us'd to read the 
 chapters. I heare it was read in the Abby Church, Westminster, but 
 almost universaly forborne throughout all London : the consequences of 
 which a little time will shew. 
 
 * Thomas Ken. 
 § John Lake. 
 
 t Thomas White. 
 || William Lloyd. 
 
 X Francis Turner. 
 
 5f Sir John Trelawny, Bart. 
 
1688.] 649 
 
 25. All the discourse now was about the Bishops refusing to read 
 y e injunction for y e abolition of the Test, &c. It seemes the injunction 
 came so crudely from the Secretary's office, that it was neither seal'd 
 nor sign'd in forme, nor had any Lawyer ben consulted, so as the Bi- 
 shops, who took all imaginable advice, put the Court to greate difficul- 
 ties how to proceede against them. Greate were the consults, and a 
 proclamation expected all this day, but nothing was don. The action 
 of the Bishops was universaly applauded, and reconcil'd many adverse 
 parties, Papists only excepted, who were now exceedingly perplex'd, and 
 violent courses were every moment expected. Report was that the Pro- 
 testant secular Lords and Nobility would abett the Clergy. 
 
 The Queene Dowager, hitherto bent on her returne into Portugal, 
 now on the sudden, on allegation of a greate debt oweing her by his 
 Ma tv disabling her, declares her resolution to stay. 
 
 News ariv'd of the most prodigious earthquake that was almost ever 
 heard of, subverting the citty of Lima and country in Peru, with a 
 dreadfull inundation following it. 
 
 8 June. This day the Archbishop of Canterbury, with the Bishops 
 of Ely, Chichester, S l Asaph, Bristol, Peterborough, and Bath and 
 Wells, were sent from the Privy Council prisoners to the Tower t for 
 refusing to give bade for their appearance, on their not reading the 
 Declaration for liberty of conscience ; they refus'd to give baile, as it 
 would have prejudic'd their Peerage. The concern of the people for 
 them was wonderfull, infinite crouds on their knees begging their 
 blessing, and praying for them as they pass'd out of the barge along 
 the Tower-wharfe. 
 
 10. A. young Prince borne, which will cause disputes. 
 
 About 2 o'clock we heard the Tower ordnance discharg'd, and the 
 bells ringing for the birth of a Prince of Wales. This was very sur- 
 prizing, it having ben universally given out that her Ma tv did not look 
 till the next moneth. 
 
 13. I went to the Tower to see the Bishops, visited the Abp. and 
 Bps. of Ely, S* Asaph, and Bath and Wells. 
 
 14. Din'd with my Lord Chancellor. 
 vol. i. 4 o 
 
650 [1688. 
 
 15 June. Being the first day of Term, the Bishops were brought to 
 Westminster on Habeas Corpus, when the Indictment was read, and 
 they were called on to plead ; their Counsel objected that the Warrant 
 was illegal, but after long debate it was over-ruled, and they pleaded. 
 The Court then offered to take bail for their appearance, but this they 
 refused, and at last were dismissed on their own recognizances to ap- 
 peare that day fortnight ; the Abp. in 2001. the Bishops 100/. each. 
 
 29. They appeared ; the trial lasted from 9 in the morning to past 
 6 in the evening, when the Jury retired to consider of their verdict, and 
 the Court adjourned to 9 the next morning. The Jury were locked up 
 till that time, 11 of them being for an acquittal, but one (Arnold a 
 brewer) would not consent. At length he agreed with the others. The 
 Cheif Justice Wright behaved with great moderation and civility to the 
 Bishops. Alibone, a Papist, was strongly against them ; but Hollo way 
 and Powell, being of opinion in their favour, they were acquitted. 
 When this was heard, there was great rejoicing; and there was a lane 
 of people from the King's Bench to the water side, on their knees, as 
 the Bishops pass'd and repass'd, to beg their blessing. Bonfires were 
 made that night, and bells rung, which was taken very ill at Court, 
 and an appearance of neere 60 Earls and Lords, &c. on the bench, did 
 not a little comfort them, butindeede they were all along full of comfort 
 and cheerfull. 
 
 Note, they denied to pay the Lieut 1 of the Tower (Hales, who us'd 
 them very surlily) any fees, alledging that none were due. 
 
 17. Was a day of Thanksgiving in London and 10 miles about for 
 the young Prince's birth ; a form of prayer made for the purpose by the 
 Bp. of Rochester. 
 
 The night was solemniz'd with bonfires and other fire -works, &c. 
 
 2 July. The two Judges Holloway and Powell were displaced. 
 
 3. I went with Dr. Godolphin and his brother Sir W m to St. 
 Alban's to see a library he would have bought of the widow of Dr. 
 Cartwrite, late Archdeacon of St. Alban's, a very good collection of 
 books, especialy in divinity ; he was to give ^.300 for them. Having 
 seen the greate Church, now newly repair'd by a public contribution, 
 we return'd home. 
 
16SS.J 651 
 
 8. One of the King's Chaplains preach'd before the Princess on 14 
 Exotlus 13, " Stand still and behold the salvation of the Lord," w ch he 
 applied so boldly to the present conjuncture of the Church of England* 
 that more could scarce be said to encourage desponders. The Popish 
 Priests were not able to carry their cause against their learned adversa- 
 ries, who confounded them both by their disputes and writings. 
 
 12. The Camp now began at Hounslow, but the Nation was in 
 high discontent. 
 
 Col. Titus, Sir Hen. Vane (son of him who was executed for his 
 treason), and some other of the Presbyterians and Independent party, 
 were sworne of y c Privy Council, from hopes of thereby diverting that 
 party from going over to y e Bishops and Church of England, which 
 now they began to do, foreseeing the designe of the Papists to descend 
 and take in their most hateful of heretics (as they at other times ex- 
 pressed them to be) to effect their own ends, now evident; the utter 
 extirpation of the Church of England first, and then the rest would 
 follow. 
 
 17 July. This night the Fireworks were plaied off, that had ben 
 prepar'd for the Queene's up-sitting. We saw them to great advan- 
 tage ; they were very fine, and cost some thousands of pounds, in the 
 pyramids, statues, &c. but were spent too soone for so long a preparation. 
 
 26. I went to Lambeth to visit the Archbp. whom I found verv 
 cheerfull. 
 
 10 Aug. Dr. Tenison now told me there would suddenly be some 
 greate thing discover'd. This was the Prince of Orange intending to 
 come over. 
 
 15. I went to Althorp in Northamptonshire, JO miles. A coach 
 and 4 horses took up me and my sonn at White-hall, and carried us to 
 Dunstable, where we ariv'd and din'd at noone, and from thence ano- 
 ther coach and 6 horses carried us to Althorp, 4 miles beyond North- 
 ampton, where we ariv'd by 7 o'clock that evening. Both these 
 coaches were hir'd for me by that noble Countesse of Sunderland, who 
 invited me to her house at Althorp*, where she entertain'd me and mv 
 sonn with very extraordinary kindness ; I stav'd till the Thursday. 
 
 * See a former visit to this place, p. 478. 
 
652 
 
 [1688. 
 
 18. Dr. Jeffryes, the minister of Althorp, who was my Lord's 
 chaplain when Ambass r in France, preach'd the shortest discourse I ever 
 heard ; but what was defective in the amplitude of his sermon, he had 
 supplied in the largeness and convenience of the Parsonage house, \v ch 
 the D r (who had at least ^8.600 a year in spiritual advancement) had 
 new built, and made fit for a person of quality to live in, with gardens 
 and all accommodation according therewith. 
 
 My lady carried us to see Lord Northampton's seat, a very strong 
 large house, built with stone, not altogether modern. They were en- 
 larging the garden, in which was nothing extraordinary, except the iron 
 gate opening into the Park, w ch indeede was very good work, wrought 
 in flowers, painted with blue and gilded. There is a noble walke of 
 elmes towards the front of the house by the bowling greene. I was 
 not in any roome of the house besides a lobby looking into the garden, 
 where my Lord and his new Countesse (S r Ste. Fox's daughter, whom 
 I had knowne from a child) entertain'd the Countesse and her daughter 
 the Countesse of Arran (newly married to the son of the Duke of Ha- 
 milton) with so little good grace, and so dully, that our visite was very 
 short, and so we return'd to Althorp, 12 miles distant. 
 
 The house, or rather palace, at Althorp, is a noble uniform pile in 
 form of a half H, built of brick and freestone, ballustred and a la mo- 
 derne ; the hall is well, the staircase excellent; the roomes of state, 
 gallerys, offices and furniture, such as may become a greate Prince. It 
 is situate in the midst of a garden, exquisitely planted and kept, and all 
 this in a parke wall'd in with hewn stone, planted with rows and walkes 
 of trees, canals and fish ponds, and stor'd with game. And what is 
 above all this, govern'd by a lady, who without any shew of sollicitude, 
 keepes every thing in such admirable order, both within and without, 
 from the garret to the cellar, that I do not believe there is any in this 
 nation, or in any other, that exceedes her in such exact order, without 
 ostentation, but substantially greate and noble. The meanest servant 
 is lodg'd so neat and cleanly; the service at the several tables, the good 
 order and decency — in a word, the intire oeconomy is perfectly becoming 
 a wise and noble person. She is one who for her distinguish'd esteeme 
 of me from a long and worthy friendship, I must ever honour and cele- 
 
lfJSS.] 
 
 653 
 
 brate. I wish from my soul the Lord her husband (whose parts and 
 abilities are otherwise conspicuous) was as worthy of her, as by a fatal 
 apostacy and court ambition he has made himself unworthy. This is 
 what she deplores, and it renders her as much affliction as a lady of 
 greate soul and much prudence is capable of. The Countesse of Bristol, 
 her mother, a grave and honorable lady, has the comfort of seeing her 
 daughter and grandchildren under the same ceconomy, especialy Mr. 
 Charles Spencer*, a youth of extraordinary hopes, very learned for his 
 age, and ingenious, and under a governor of greate worth. Happy 
 were it could as much be said of the elder brother, the Lord Spencer, 
 who, rambling about y e world, dishonours both his name and his fa- 
 mily, adding sorrow to sorrow to a mother who has taken all imagin- 
 able care of his education. There is a daughter very young married to 
 the Earl of Clancartie, who has a greate and faire estate in Ireland, but 
 who yet gives no greate presage of worth, — so universally contaminated 
 is the youth of this corrupt and abandon'd age! But this is againe 
 recompenc'd by my Lord Arran, a sober and worthy gentleman, who 
 has espous'd the Lady Ann Spencer, a young lady of admirable accom- 
 plishments and virtue. 
 
 23. I left this noble place and conversation, my lady having pro- 
 vided carriages to convey us back in the same manner as we went, and 
 a dinner being prepared at Dunstable against our arival. Northamp- 
 ton, having ben lately burnt and re-edified, is now become a town that 
 for the beauty of the buildings, especialy the church and town- house, 
 may compare with the neatest in Italy itselfe. 
 
 Dr. Sprat, Bishop of Rochester, wrote a very honest and handsome 
 letter to the Commissioners Ecclesiastical, excusing himselfe from 
 sitting any longer among them, he by no meanes approving of their 
 prosecuting the Cleargy who refus'd to reade the Declaration for liberty 
 of conscience, in prejudice of the Church of England. 
 
 * The eldest son dying without issue, this Charles succeeded to the title and estate, and mar- 
 rying to his second wife one of the daughters and at length coheirs to John Duke of Marlborough, 
 his son by her succeeded to that title. 
 
654 
 
 [1688. 
 
 The Dutch make extraordinary preparations both at sea and land, w ch 
 with the very small progresse Popery makes among us, puts us to many 
 difficulties. The Popish Irish soldiers commit many murders and in- 
 sults; the whole Nation disaffected, and in apprehensions. 
 
 After long trials of the doctors to bring up the little Prince of Wales 
 by hand (so many of her Ma lv ' s children having died infants) not suc- 
 ceeding, a country nurse, the wife of a tile-maker, is taken to give it 
 suck. 
 
 18 Sept. I went to London, where I found the Court in the utmost 
 consternation on report of the Prince of Orange's landing, w ch put 
 White-hall into so panic a feare, that I could hardly believe it possible 
 to find such a change. 
 
 Writs were issu'd in order to a Parliament, and a declaration to back 
 the good order of elections, with greate professions of maintaining the 
 Church of England, but without giving any sort of satisfaction to the 
 people, who shew'd their high discontent at several things in the Go- 
 vernment. 
 
 Earthquakes had utterly demolish'd the ancient Smyrna, and several 
 other places in Greece, Italy, and even in the Spanish Indies, fore- 
 runners of greater calamities. God Almighty preserve his Church and 
 all who put themselves under the shadow of his wings, till these things 
 be over-past ! 
 
 30. The Court in so extraordinary a consternation on assurance of 
 the Prince of Orange's intention to land, that the writs sent forth for a 
 Parliament were recall'd. 
 
 7 Oct. Dr. Tenison preach'd at St. Martines, on 2 Tim. 3. 16. 
 shewing the Scriptures to be our only rule of faith, and its perfection 
 above all traditions. After w ch neere 1000 devout persons partook of 
 the Communion. This sermon was cheifly occasion'd by a Jesuite, who 
 in the Masse-house on the Sunday before had disparag'd the Scripture 
 and rail'd at our translation, w ch some present contradicting, they 
 pull'd him out of the Pulpit, and treated him very coarsely, insomuch 
 that it was like to create a greate disturbance in the Citty. 
 
 Hourly expectation of the Prince of Orange's invasion heighten'd 
 to that degree that his Ma 1 thought fit to abrogate the Commission for 
 
1688.] 
 
 655 
 
 the dispensing power (but retaining his own right still to dispense with 
 all laws) and restore the ejected Fellows of Magdalen College, Oxford. 
 In the mean time he call'd over 5000 Irish, and 4000 Scots, and con- 
 tinued to remove Protestants and put in Papists at Portsmouth and 
 other places of trust, and retained the Jesuites about him, increasing the 
 universal discontent. It brought people to so desperate a passe, that 
 they seem'd passionately to long for and desire the landing of that 
 Prince whom they look'd on to be their deliverer from Popish tyranny, 
 praying incessantly for an East wind, w cb was said to be the only 
 hindrance of his expedition with a numerous army ready to make a 
 descent. To such a strange temper, and unheard-of in former times, 
 was this poore Nation reduc'd, and of which I was an eye-witness. The 
 apprehension was (and with reason) that his Majesty's forces would 
 neither at land or sea oppose them with that vigour requisite to repel 
 invaders. 
 
 The late iinprison'd Bishops were now call'd to reconcile matters, 
 and the Jesuites hard at worke to foment confusion among the Pro- 
 testants by their usual tricks. A letter was sent to the Abp. of Can- 
 terbury*, informing him, from good hands, of what was contriving by 
 
 * By Mr. Evelyn. The letter was as follows : 
 
 " My Lord, The honor and reputation which y* Grace's piety, prudence, and signal courage, 
 have justly merited and obtain'd, not onely from the Sons of the Church of England, but even 
 universaly from those Protestants afnongst us who are Dissenters from her discipline ; God 
 Almighty's providence and blessing upon yr Grace's vigilancy and extraordinary endeavors will 
 not suffer to be diminished in this conjuncture. The conversation I now and then have with 
 some in place, who have the opportunity of knowing what is doing in the most seacret recesses 
 and cabals of our Churches adversaries, obliges me to acquaint, you, that the calling of v r Grace 
 and the rest of the L<ls Bishops to Court, and what has there of late ben requir'd of you, is onely 
 to create a jealousie and suspicion amongst well-meaning people of such compliances as it is 
 certaine they have no cause to apprehend. The Plan of this and of all that w ch is to follow of 
 seeming favour thence, is wholly drawn by the Jesuites, who are at this time more than ever 
 buisy to make divisions amongst us, all other arts and mechanisms having hitherto failed them. 
 They have, with other things, contriv'd that y»* L^ships the Bishops should give his Maty advice 
 separately, without calling any of the rest of the Peeres, which, tho' maliciously suggested, 
 spreads generaly about the Towne. I do not at all question but y r Grace will speedily prevent 
 the operation of this venome, and that you will thinke it highly necessary so to do, that y r Grace 
 is also injoyn'd to compose a form of prayer, wherein the Pr. of O. is expressly to be named the 
 Invader : of this I presume not to say any thing j but for as much as in all the Declarations, 
 &c. which have hitherto been published in pretended favour of the Church of England, there is 
 
656 
 
 [1688. 
 
 them. A paper of what the Bishops advis'd his Ma^ was published. 
 The Bishops were injoin'd to prepare a form of prayer against the fear'd 
 invasion. A pardon published. Souldiers and mariners daily press'd. 
 
 14 Oct. The King's birth-day. No gunns from the Tower as usual. 
 The sun eclips'd at its rising. This day signal for the victory of Wil- 
 liam the Conqueror against Harold, near Battel in Sussex. The wind, 
 w h had been hitherto West, was East all this day. Wonderfull ex- 
 pectation of the Dutch fleet. Public prayers order'd to be read in the 
 Churches against invasion. 
 
 28. A tumult in London on the rabble demolishing a Popish 
 Chapel that had ben set up in the Citty. 
 
 29. Lady Sunderland acquainted me with his Ma^' s taking away 
 the seales from Lord Sunderland, and of her being with the Queene to 
 intercede for him. It is conceiv'd that he had of late grown remisse 
 in pursuing the interest of the Jesuitical Counsells ; some reported one 
 thing, some another ; but there was doubtless some secret betray 'd 
 which time may discover. 
 
 There was a Counsel call'd, to w ch were summon'd the Archbp. of 
 Canterbury, the Judges, the Lord Maior, &c. The Queene Dowager, 
 and all the Ladies and Lords who were present at the Queene Con- 
 sort's labour, were to give their testimony upon oath of the Prince of 
 Wales's birth, recorded both at the Counsel Board and at the Chan- 
 cery a day or two after. This procedure was censur'd by some as below 
 
 not once the least mention of the Reformed or Protestant Religion, but onely of the Church of 
 England as by Law established, which Church the Papists tell us is the Church of Rome, which is 
 (say they) the Catholic Church of England that onely is establish'd by Law ; the C. of England 
 in the Reformed sense so established is but by an usurp'd authority. The antiquity of that would 
 by these words be explained, and utterly defeate this false and subdolous construction, and take 
 off all exceptions whatsoever ; if in all extraordinary offices, upon these occasions, the words 
 Reformed and Protestant were added to that of the Church of England by Law established. And 
 whosoever threatens to invade or come against us, to ye prejudice of that Church, in God's name, 
 be they Dutch or Irish, let us heartily pray and fight against them. My Lord, this is, I confesse, 
 a bold, but honest period; and tho' I am well assur'd that y r Grace is perfectly acquainted with 
 all this before, and therefore may blame my impertinence, as that dos aWoleionriuKoTruv, yet I am 
 confident you will not reprove the zeale of one who most humbly beggs your Grace's pardon, 
 with y r blessing. Lond. 10 Oct. 1688." (From a copy in Mr. Evelyn's hand-writing.) See 
 vol II. p. 2. 
 
1688.] 657 
 
 his Ma^ to condescend to, on the talke of the people. It was remark- 
 able that on this occasion the A bp, Marquess of Halifax, the Earles of 
 Clarendon and Nottingl lam, refus d to sit at the Counsel table amongst 
 Papists, and their bold telling his Ma tv that whatever was don whilst 
 such sate amongst them was unlawfull and incurr'd premunire ; — at 
 least if what I heard be true. 
 
 30. I din'd with Lord Preston, made Secretary of State in the 
 place of the Earle of Sunderland. 
 
 Visited Mr. Boyle, when came in the Duke of Hamilton and Earle 
 of Burlington. The Duke told us many particulars of Mary Queene 
 of Scots, and her amours with her Italian favorite, &c. 
 
 31. My birth-day, being the 68th year of my age. O blessed Lord, 
 grant that as I grow in yeares, so may T improve in grace ! Be Thou 
 my protector this following year, and preserve me and mine from those 
 dangers and greate confusions that threaten a sad revolution to this 
 sinfull Nation ! Defend thy Church, our holy Religion, and just 
 Laws, disposing his Ma ty to listen to sober and healing Counsels, that 
 if it be Thy blessed will we may still enjoy that happy tranquillity 
 which hitherto Thou hast continued to us ! Amen, Amen ! 
 
 1 Nov. Din'd with Lord Preston with other company at Sir Ste- 
 phen Fox's. Continual alarmes of the Prince of Orange, but no cer- 
 tainty. Reports of his greate losses of horse in the storme, but with- 
 out any assurance. A man was taken with divers papers and printed 
 manifestos, and carried to Newgate after examination at the Cabinet 
 Council. There was likewise a Declaration of the States for satisfac- 
 tion of all Public Ministers at the Hague, except to the English and 
 the French. There was in that of the Prince's an expression as if the 
 Lords both Spiritual and Temporal had invited him over, with a de- 
 duction of the causes of his enterprize. This made his Ma ,y convene 
 my Lord of Canterbury and the other Bishops now in townc, to give 
 an account of what was in the Manifesto, and to enjoyne them to clear 
 themselves by some publiq writing of this disloval charge. 
 
 2. It was now certainly reported by some who saw the fleete, and 
 y e Prince imbarke, that they sailed from the Brill on Wednesday 
 
 vol. i. 4 p 
 
658 [1688. 
 
 morning, and that the Princesse of Orange was there to take leave of 
 her husband. 
 
 4. Fresh reports of the Prince being landed somewhere about 
 Portsmouth or the Isle of Wight, whereas it was thought it would 
 have been Northward. The Court in greate hurry. 
 
 5. I went to London ; heard the newes oPthe Prince having landed 
 at Torbay, coming with a fleete of neere fQO saile, passing through 
 the Channell with so favourable a wind that our navy could not inter- 
 cept or molest them. This put the King and Court into greate con- 
 sternation ; they were now employ 'd in forming an army to stop their 
 further progresse, for they were got into Exeter, and the season and 
 ways very improper for his Ma ty ' s forces to march so greate a distance. 
 
 The Abp. of Canterbury and some few of the other Bishops and 
 Lords in London were sent for to White-hall, and requir'd to set forth 
 their abhorrence of the invasion. They assur'd his Ma (y they had 
 never invited any of the Prince's party, or were in the least privy to it, 
 and would be ready to shew all testimonie of their loyalty ; but as to a 
 public Declaration, being so few, they desir'd that his Ma'^ would call 
 the rest of their brethren and Peeres that they might consult what was 
 fit to be don on this occasion, not thinking it right to publish any 
 thing without them, and till they had themselves seen the Prince's 
 Manifesto, in which it was pretended he was invited in by the Lords 
 Spiritual and Temporal. This did not please the King; so they departed. 
 
 A Declaration was publish'd prohibiting all persons to see or reade 
 the Prince's Manifesto, in which was set forth at large the cause of his 
 expedition, as there had ben one before from the States. 
 
 These are the beginnings of sorrow, unlesse God in His mercy pre- 
 vent it by some happy reconciliation of all dissentions amongst us. 
 This, in all likelihood, nothing can effect except a free Parliament ; 
 but this we cannot hope to see whilst there are any forces on either 
 side. I pray God to protect and direct the King for the best and truest 
 interest of his People ! — I saw his Ma ty touch for the evil, Piten the 
 Jesuit, and Warner officiating. 
 
 14. The Prince increases every day in force. Several Lords go in 
 
168S.] 659 
 
 to him. Lord Cornberry carries some regiments, marches to Honiton, 
 the Prince's head quarters. The Citty of London in disorder ; the 
 rabble pull'd down the Nunnery newly bought by the Papists of Lord 
 Berkeley at St. John's. The Queene prepares to go to Portsmouth for 
 safety, to attend the issue of this commotion, w ch has a dreadfull aspect. 
 
 18. It was now very hard frost. The King goes to Salisbury to 
 rendezvous the army, and returnes to London. Lord Delamerc ap- 
 peares for y e Prince in Cheshire. The Nobility meete in Yorkshire. 
 The Archbishop of Canterbury and some Bishops, and such Peeres as 
 were in London, address his Ma ty to call a Parliament. The King 
 invites all Forraine Nations to corfte over. The French take all the 
 Palatinate, and alarm the Germans more than ever. 
 
 29. I went to the Royal Society. We adjourn'd the election of a 
 President to 23 April by reason of the public commotions, yet din'd 
 together as of custome this day. 
 
 2 Dec. Dr. Tenison preached at St. Martines on 36 Psalm 5, 6, 7, 
 concerning Providence. I received the blessed Sacrament. Afterwards 
 visited my Lord Godolphin, then going with the Marquess of Halifax 
 and Earle of Nottingham as Commissioners to the Prince of Orange ; 
 he told me they had little power. Plymouth declar'd for the Prince, 
 Bath, York, Hull, Bristol, and all the eminent Nobility and Persons of 
 Quality through England, declare for the Protestant Religion and 
 Laws, and go to meete the Prince, who every day sets forth new 
 Declarations against the Papists. The great favourites at Court, Priests 
 and Jesuits, fly or abscond. Every thing, till now conceal'd, flics 
 abroad in public print, and is cried about the streetes. Expectation of 
 the Prince coming to Oxford. The Prince of Wales and greate trea- 
 sure sent privily to Portsmouth, the Earle of Dover being Governor. 
 Addresse from the Fleete not gratefull to his Ma*?. The Papists in 
 offices lay down their commissions, and fly. Universal consternation 
 amongst them ; it looks like a Revolution. 
 
 7- My son went towards Oxford. I return'd home. 
 
 9. Lord Sunderland meditates flight. The rabble demolish'd all 
 Popish Chapels, and severall Papist Lords and Gentlemen's houses, 
 especialy that of the Spanish Ambassador, w ch they pillag'd, and burnt 
 his Library. 
 
660 [1688. 
 
 J 3. The King flies to sea, puts in at Faversham for ballast; is 
 rudely treated by the people ; comes back to White-hall. 
 
 The Pr. of Orange is advanc'd to Windsor, is invited by the King 
 to St. James's, the messenger sent was the Earle of Faversham, the 
 General of the Forces, who going without trumpet or passeport is 
 detain'd prisoner by the Prince, who accepts the invitation, but requires 
 his Ma ty to retire to some distant place, that his owne guards may be 
 quarter'd about the Palace and Citty. This is taken heinously, and 
 the King goes privately to Rochester ; is persuaded to come back ; 
 comes on the Sunday ; goes to masse, and dines in publiq, a Jesuit 
 saying grace (I was present). 
 
 17- That night was a Council ; his Ma'> refuses to assent to all the 
 proposals ; goes away again to Rochester. 
 
 18. I saw the King take barge to Gravesend at 12 o'clock — a sad 
 sight ! The Prince comes to St. James's, and fills White-hall with 
 Dutch guards. A Council of Peeres meete about an expedient to call 
 a Parliament ; adjourn to the House of Lords. The Chancellor, Earl 
 of Peterboro', and divers others taken. The Earle of Sunderland flies ; 
 S r Edw d Hales, Walker, and others, taken and secur'd. 
 
 All the world go to see the Prince at St. James's, where there is a 
 greate Court. There I saw him, and severall of my acquaintance who 
 came over with him. He is very stately, serious and reserv'd. The 
 English soldiers sent out of towne to disband them ; not well pleas'd. 
 
 24. The King passes into France, whither the Queene and Child 
 were gon a few days before. 
 
 26. The Peeres and such Commoners as were Members of the Par- 
 liament at Oxford, being the last of Charles II. meeting, desire the 
 Pr. of Orange to take on him the disposal of the publiq revenue till a 
 Convention of Lords and Commons should meete in full body, ap- 
 pointed by his circular letters to the Shires and Burroughs, 22 Jan. 
 — I had now quarter'd upon me a Lieut'.-Col. and 8 horses. 
 
 30. This day Prayers for the Prince of Wales were first left off in 
 our Church. 
 
661 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 I. 
 
 The following Letter from George Evelyn, Esq. elder brother of Mr. J. E. 
 when at College, to his father Richard at Wotton, 26 Sept. 1636, giving an 
 account of the Visit made by the King and Queen to the University of 
 Oxford, with some particulars respecting himself, contains some curious 
 matter. 
 
 I know you have longe desired to heere of my welfaire, and the totall series 
 of his Majesty's entertainement whilst hee was fixed in the center of our Aca- 
 demic 
 
 The Archbishop o r L d Chauncelour [Laud] and many Bishops, Doctor 
 Bayley o r Vice Chauncelour, w th the rest of the Doctors of the University, 
 together w th the Maior of the City, and his brethren, rode out in state to 
 meet his Majesty, the Bishops in their Pontificall robes, the Doctors in 
 their scarlet Gowns and their black capps (being the habite of the univer- 
 sity), the Maior and Aldermen in their scarlett Gowns, and 60 other towns- 
 men all in blacke satin doubletts and in old fashion Jacketts. At the ap- 
 propinquatio' of y e King, after the Beedles Stafes were delivered up to His 
 Majesty in token y* they yealded up all their autority to him, the Vice 
 Chauncelor spooke a speech to the King, and presented him w th a Bible in the 
 Universitys behalfe, the Queene w th Camden's Britannia in English, and the 
 Prince Elect (as I toke it) w th Croke's Politicks ; all of them w th gloves (be- 
 cause Oxford is famous for gloves*). A litile nigher the City where y e Citye 
 bounds are terminated, the Maior presented his Majesty w th a large guilt cupp, 
 
 * Gloves always made part of a present from Corporate Bodies at that time, more or less orna- 
 mented with rich fringes according to the quality of the persons to whom they were offered. 
 
662 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 et tenet vicinitatem opinio the Recorder of the City made a speech to his Ma- 
 jestic In the entrance of the Universitie, at St. John's College, he was de- 
 tained w th another speech made by a Fellow of the house. The speech being 
 ended, he went to Christe-church, schollers standing on both sides of the 
 street according to their degrees and in their formalitys, clamantes, Vivat Rex 
 noster Carolus : Being entred Christ-church he had another speech made by 
 the Universitie Oratour, and studient of the same house: the subject of all 
 w ch speeches being this, expressing their joy and his welcome to y e Universitie. 
 Then retiring himselfe a litile he went to Prayers ; they being ended, soone 
 after to supper, and then to the Play, whose subject was the Calming of the 
 Passions ; but it was generallie misliked of the Court, because it was so grave, 
 but especially because they understood it not. This was the first days enter- 
 tainment. 
 
 The next morning he had a Sermon in Christ-church, preached by Browne 
 the Proctor of the University, and a Studient of the house. The Sermon being 
 ended, the Prince Elect and Prince Rupert went to St. Mary's, where there 
 was a congregation, and Prince Rupert created M r of Arts, also many nobles 
 w* 11 him. The reason why the Prince Elect was not created M r of Arts, was 
 because Cambridge o r Sister had created him before. The congregation done, 
 the Ring, Queene and all the nobles went to the Schooles (the glory of Christen- 
 dome) where in y e publick Library, his Majesty heard another speech, spoaken 
 by my Ld Chamberlans 3 d sonne, and of Exeter Colledge, w ch speech the K. 
 liked well. From the Schooles the K. went to St. Johns to dinner, where the 
 Archbishop entertained his Majesty w th a magnificent dinner and costly Ban- 
 quet [Dessert.] Then vv th a Play made by the same house. The Play being 
 ended, he went to Christ-church, and after supper to another Play, called the 
 Royall Slave*, all the Actors performing in a Persian habite, w ch Play much 
 delighted his Majesty and all the Nobles, com'ending it for the best y* ever 
 was acted. 
 
 The next morning he departed from the University, all the Doctors kissing 
 his hand, his Majesty expressing his K'y love to y e University, and his coun- 
 tenance demonstrating unto us that he was well pleased w th this his entertain- 
 ment made by us Schollars. 
 
 * By William Cartwiight, a Student of that College. In this Play one of his fellow Students 
 (afterwards the famous Dr. Busby) performed a part (that of Cratander) so excellently well, and 
 with so much applause, that it is said he had almost determined to commence actor on the pub- 
 lic stage. 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 663 
 
 After the K. s departure there was a Congregation called, where many Doctors, 
 some Maisters of Arts, and a few Batchelours were created, they procuring it 
 by making friends to y e Paulsgrave. There were very few that went out that 
 are now resident, most of them were L ds and gentlemen. A Doctor of Divinity 
 and Batchelour of Arts were created of o r house [Trinity], but they made spe- 
 cial friends to gett it. 
 
 W th the ^30. you sent me I have furnished me w th those necessarys I 
 wanted, and have made me two suits, one of them being a blacke satin doublett 
 and black cloth breeches, the other a white satin doublett and scarlett hoase ; 
 the scarlett hoase I shall weare but litile heare, but it will be comely for me 
 to weare in the country. 
 
 Yo r desire was that I should be as frugall in my expences as I could, and I 
 assure you, honoured Sir, I have been ; I have spent none of it in riot or toyes. 
 You hoped it would be sufficient to furnish me and discharge my battailes for 
 this Quarter, but I feare it will not, therefore I humbly entreat you to send me 
 ^£6. I know what I have already, and w th this I send for, wil be more than 
 enough to discharge these months, but I know not what occasion may fall out. 
 Trim Coll. Oxon, 26. ;b r 16*36. 
 
 II. 
 
 In the Edition of Sir Richard Baker's Chronicle published with additions 
 by Edward Phillips (Milton's nephew) there is an account of the transactions 
 between Mr. Evelyn and Col. Morley, relative to the latter's being urged by 
 Mr. Evelyn, after Cromwell's death, to declare for the King. In a subsequent 
 Edition in 1730, this account is considerably altered. Amongst Mr. Evelyn's 
 papers at Wotton, there is the original account drawn up by Sir Tho. Clarges, 
 and sent to Mr. Phillips ; it is in Sir Thomas's own hand-writing, was evidently 
 sent to Mr. Evelyn for his perusal, and is thus indorsed by him : 
 
 " S r Thomas Clarges (brother-in-law to the Duke of Albemarle) insertion of 
 what concern'd M r Evelyn & Coll: Morley in the continuation of the History 
 written by M r Phillips & added to S r Rich. Baker's Chronicle. Note that my 
 lett r to Col: Morley was not rightly copied, there was likewise too much sayd 
 concerning me, which is better & as it ought to be in the second impres- 
 sion 1664." 
 
 Mr. Phillips's account is as follows: 
 
 " In the seven hundred and nineteenth page of this History wee omitted to 
 insert a very materiall negotiation for the Kings service, attempted upon the 
 
g64 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 interruption given to the Parliament by Col. Lambert and those that joyned 
 with him therein, which was managed by Mr. Evelin of Says Court by Dept- 
 ford in Kent, an active, vigilant, and very industrious agent on all occasions for 
 his Ma ties Restauration ; who supposing the members of this supposititious 
 Parliament could not but ill resent that affront, thought to make advantage of 
 fixing the impression of it to the ruine of the Army, for the effecting whereof 
 he applied himself to Colonel Herbert Morley, then newly constituted one of 
 the five Commissioners for the command of the Army, as a person by his birth, 
 education & interest unlikely to be cordially inclined to prostitute himself to 
 the ruine of his Country and the infamie of his posteritie. 
 
 " Mr. Evelin gave him some visits to tempt his affection by degrees to a con- 
 fidence in him, & then by consequence to ingage him in his designes ; and to 
 induce him the more powerfully thereunto, he put into his hands an excellent 
 and unanswerable hardie treatise by him written call'd " An Apology for the 
 Royal Party," w ch he backd with so good arguments and a very dextrous ad- 
 dresse in the prosecution of them, that the Colonel was wholly convinc'd, and 
 recommended to him the procurement of the Kings pardon for him, his bro- 
 ther in law M r Fagg, and one or two more of his relations. This M r Evelin 
 faithfully promis'd to endeavour, and taking the opportunitie of S r Samuel 
 Tuke's goeing at that time into France, he by him acquainted the King (being 
 then at Pontoise) with the relation of this affaire, wherewith he was so well 
 pleasd as to declare if Coll. Morley & those for whom he interceded were not 
 of those execrable Judges of his blessed Royall Father, they shuld have his par- 
 don, and he receive such other reward as his services shuld deserve. Upon 
 the sending this advice to the King the Coll: left London, because of the jea- 
 lousy w ch Fleetwood and Lambert had of him ; but before he went he desired 
 Mr. Evelin to correspond with him in Sussex by the meanes of M 1 * Fagg his 
 brother in law, who then lay in the Mewes. 
 
 " Mr. Evelin had good reason to believe Colonel Morley very capable of 
 serving the King at this time, for he had much a better interest in Sussex then 
 any of his party ; whereby he might have facilitated his Ma tie8 reception in 
 that County in case his affaires had required his landing there ; but besides his 
 power in Sussex, he had (as he said) an influence on two of the best Regiments 
 of the Army, and good creddit with many of the Officers of the Fleet. 
 
 " But before the rcturne from France of the King's resolution in this matter 
 there intervened many little changes in the posture of affairs. 
 
 " Upon the advance of General Monck in favour of the Parliament, and the 
 general I inclination of the Army to him, Colonel Morley expected the restitu- 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. 665 
 
 tion of that power, and with it of his own authority, and was leagued with 
 Walton and Hazlerig in a private treaty w th Colonel Whetham the Governor 
 of Portsmouth for the delivery of that garrison to them ; and Fagg went pri- 
 vately from London to raise a Regiment in Sussex to promote these designs, 
 but was suppress'd before he gott any considerable number of men together. 
 
 " M r Evelin not knowing of these intrigues, in vaine endeavour'd by all 
 imaginable waves to communicate the King's pleasure to Morley, whooe was 
 by this time in the garrison of Portsmouth. 
 
 " But when the Parliament resumd their power, and he [Morley] was 
 placed in the government of the Tower, he [Evelin] thought it expedient to 
 renew the former negotiation betwixt them for his Ma ties service, and in order 
 thereunto he often by visitts made application to him, but could never but 
 once procure accesse ; and then he dismissed him with a faint answer, " That 
 he would shortly wait upon him at his Lodging." 
 
 " This put Evelin into so much passion that he resolv'd to surmount the 
 difficulty of accesse by writing freely to him, which he did in this manner: 
 
 To Coll: Morley, Lieutenant of theTowre*. 
 
 For many obligations, but especially for the last testimonies of v r confidence ffhen i transact- 
 
 „..,., i • ••,.11 ed with h " n f" r 
 
 in my friendship, begun so long since, and conserved so inviolably through so delivery «/ the 
 
 many changes, and in so universall a decadence of honour, & all that is sacred % to declare for 
 amongst men, I come with this profound acknowledgement of the favours you ^fmTcen: ' 
 have don me ; and had a greate desire to have made this a personall recognition ^fud^jVt 
 and to congratulate y r returne, and the dignities which y r merites have acquired, 1^^'™? '** 
 and for which none dos more sincerely rejoice ; could I promise my selfe the f g) e "^ Stained 
 hapynesse of finding you in y r station at any season wherein the publique, and f00>te "f le >- 
 more weighty concernments did afford you the leasure of receiving a Visite, 
 from a person so inconsiderable as my selfe. But, since I may not hope for 
 that good fortune, and such an opportunity of conveying my respects, & the 
 greate affections which I owe you ; I did presume to transmitt this Expresse ; 
 and by it, to present you with the worthiest indications of my Zeale to con- 
 tinue in the possession of your good graces, by assuring you of my great desires 
 to serve you in whatsoever may best conduce to y r honour, and to a stability of 
 it, beyond all that any future contingencies of things can promise : because I 
 
 * The following letter is taken from Mr. Evelyn's own copy. 
 VOL. I. 4 Q 
 
«66 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 am confident, that you have a nobler prospect upon the successe of y r designes, 
 then to prostitute y r vertues & y r conduct to serve the passions or avarice of any 
 particular persons whatsoever ; being (as you are) free and incontaminate, well 
 borne, and abhorring to dishonour or enrich y r selfe with the spoyles which by 
 others have ben ravish't from our miserable, yet dearest Country ; and which 
 renders them so zealous to pursue the ruine of it, by labouring to involve 
 men of the best natures, and reputation, into their owne inextricable Laba- 
 rynths, & to gratifie that which will pay them w h so much infamy in the event 
 of things, & with so inevitable a perdition of their precious soules, when all 
 these vncertainties (how specious so euer at present) shall vanish and come 
 to nothing. 
 
 There is now, S r , an opportunity put into y r hands, by improving whereof 
 you may securely act for the good of y r Country, and the redemption of it 
 from the insupportable Tyrannies, Injustice and Impieties vnder which it has 
 now groan'd for so many yeares, through the trechery of many wicked, and 
 the mistakes of some few good men. For by this, S r , you shall best do honour 
 to God, and merite of y r Country ; by this y u shall secure y r selfe, & make y r 
 name greate to succeeding Ages : by this you shall crowne y r selfe with reall 
 & lasting dignities. In sum, by this, you shall oblige even those whom you 
 may mistake to be y r greatest Enemies, to embrace & cherish you as a person 
 becoming the honour of a brave and worthy Patriot, and to be rewarded with 
 the noblest expressions of it ; when, by the best interpretations of y r Charity 
 and Obedience to the dictates of a Christian, you shall thus heape Coales of 
 fire vpon their head ; and, which at once will give both light and warmth to 
 this afflicted Nation, Church, and People, not to be extinguished by any 
 more of those Impostors whom God has so signally blowne off the stage, to 
 place such in their stead, as have opportunities given them of restoring us to 
 our antient knowne Lawes, native and most happy Liberties : It is this, S r , 
 which I am oblig'd to wish to encourage y u in, and to pronounce as the wor- 
 thyest testimonie of my congratulations for y r Returne ; and which, you may 
 assure yourselfe, has the suffrages of the sollidest and best ingredient of this 
 whole Nation. And having sayd thus much, I am sure you will not looke 
 vpon this letter as a servile Addresse ; but, if you still retaine that favour and 
 goodnesse for the person who presents it, that I haue reason to promise my selfe, 
 from the integritie which I haue hitherto observed in all y r professions ; I con- 
 jure you to believe, that you haue made a perfect acquisition of my service ; 
 and, that (however events succeede) I am still the same person, greedy of an 
 opportunity to recom'end the sincerity of my affection, by doing you whatsoeuer 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 667 
 
 service lyes in my^power ; and I hope you shall not find me without some ca- 
 pacities of expressing it in effects, as well as in the words of 
 
 honorable S r &c. 
 
 Covent Garden 
 12 th Jan: -§-£. 
 
 " In a note he adds ; Morley was at this time Lieut* of the Towre of Lon- 
 don, was absolute Master of the Citty, there being very few of the Kebell army 
 any where neere it, save at Somerset house a trifling garrison w ch was marching 
 out to reinforce Lambert, who was marching upon the newes of Monk's coming 
 out of Scotland. He was Lieut 1 of all the Confederate Counties of Sussex, 
 Surrey, Hampshire, &c. ; his brother-in-law Gov 1- of Portsmouth and Hamp- 
 shire ; his own bro. W m Morley Gov 1- of Arundel Castle; in sum he had all 
 the advantages he could have desired to have raised the well affected of the 
 Citty & Country universally breathing after a deliverer (uncertain as to what 
 Monk intended), & so had absolutely prevented any [other] person or power 
 whatever (in all appearance) from having the honour of bringing in the King, 
 before those who were in motion could have snatch'd it out of his hand. Of 
 all this I made him so sensible, when I was with him at the Towre, that no- 
 thing but his fatal diffidence of Monk's having no designe to bring in his Ma tie 
 because he had [not] discover'd it while matters were yet in the dark (but y e 
 designe certainly resolv'd on) kept him wavering & so irresolute (tho he saw 
 the game sufficiently in his hands) as to sit still & put it off till Lambert & his 
 forces being scatter'd & taken, Monk marched into the Citty triumphant with 
 his wearied Army, possessed the Gates, & with no great cun'ing & little diffi- 
 culty, finding how the people and Magistrates were dispos'd (w h ever his general 
 intentions were, or at first seem'd to be), boldly & fortunately brought to pass 
 that noble Revolution, following it to his eternal honour by restoring a banished 
 Prince & the People's freedom. This poor Morley saw, &. implor'd my inte- 
 rest by w l meanes he might secure himself & obtaine his pardon. This is in 
 short a true account of that remarkable affaire." 
 
 Mr. Phillips goes on thus from Sir Thomas Clarges's paper : 
 " Wee shall not here determine what it was that induc'd Colonel Morley (at 
 the time of his being Lieutenant of the Tower) to decline commerce with M r 
 Evelin for the Kings service, whether it was that he doubted of the concurrence 
 of his Officers & Soldiers, whoe had bin long trained up in an aversion to Mo- 
 narchy, or whether by the intire subjection of the Army to Monck, and their 
 unity thereupon, he thought that work now too difficult, which was more fesi- 
 ble in the time of their division : But it is most certaine that he took such 
 
668 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 impressions from M r Evelin's discourses and this letter, that ever after he ap- 
 peared very moderate in his counsells, and was one of the forwardest to embrace 
 all opportunities for the good of his country ; as was evident by his vigorous & 
 hazardous opposition in Parliament to that impious oath of abjuration of the 
 Kings family and line (hereafter mentioned) before it was safe for Generall 
 Monck to discover how he was inclined ; and by his willing conjunction and 
 confederacy after with the Generall for the admission of the secluded members 
 in proclamation for a free Parliament for the Ring's restauration* ." 
 
 Feb. 6, 1687-8, there was printed what was called " A true and perfect Nar- 
 rative of the strange and unexpected finding the Crucifix and Gold-chain of that 
 pious Prince, St. Edward the King and Confessor, which was found after 620 
 years interment, and presented to his most sacred Majesty King James the 
 
 * In 1815 Baron Maseres re-published some Tracts relating to the Civil War in England in the 
 time of King Charles I. amongst which is " The Mystery and Method of his Majesty's happy Re- 
 stauration, by the Rev. Dr. John Price, one of the late Duke of Albemarle's chaplains, who was 
 privy to all the secret passages and particularities of that Glorious Revolution." Printed in 1680. 
 In this tract it is stated that Monk's officers being dissatisfied with the conduct of the Rump Par- 
 liament, pressed him to come to some decision, whereupon, on 11 Feb. 1660, they sent the letter 
 to the Parliament, desiring them first to fill up vacancies, and then to determine their own sit- 
 ting, and call a new Parliament. Dr. Price then says, " The General yielded at length to their 
 fears and counsells, and the rather for that he was assured of the Tower of London, the Lieutenant 
 of it (Col. Morley) having before offered it to him. This the noble Colonel had done in the City, 
 pitying the consternation of the Citizens when he saw what work was doing [Monk's pulling 
 down the City Gates a few days before by order of the Rump Parliament] and what influence it 
 would have on the country." He adds, " that though the Rump did not dare to take away the 
 General's Commission as one of their Commissioners for governing the army, they struck out his 
 name from the quorum of them, which virtually did take away his authority, and he and Morley 
 were left to stem the tide against Hazlerigg, Alured, and Walton." 
 
 These are the only mentions which he makes of Morley, by which it seems that the first con- 
 niunication between him and Monk was when the latter had broken down the City Gates, on the 
 9th February. 
 
 Had there been any previous concert between Monk and Morley, the latter would not have 
 wanted Mr. Evelyn's assistance to obtain his pardon, which however he did want, and obtained 
 through Mr. Evelyn. 
 
 See vol. I. of this work, p. 319. 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Second. By Charles Taylour, Gent. London, printed by J. B. and are to 
 be sold by Randal Taylor, near Stationers' Hall, 1688." 
 
 He says, that " on St. Barnaby's Day, 1685, between 11 and 12 at noon, 
 he went with two friends to see the coffin of Edward the Confessor, having 
 heard that it was broke ; fetched a ladder, looked on the coffin and found a 
 hole as reported, put his hand into the hole, and turning the bones which he 
 felt there, drew from under the shoulder bones a crucifix richly adorned and 
 enamelled, and a golden chain of 24 inches long to which it was fixed ; shewed 
 them to his two friends ; was afraid to take them away till he had acquainted the 
 Dean ; put them into the coffin again ; but the Dean not being to be spoke 
 with then, and fearing this treasure might be taken by some other, he went 
 two or three hours after to one of the Quire, acquainted him with what he had 
 found, who accompanied him to the monument, from whence he again drew 
 the crucifix and chain ; his friend advised him to keep them until he could shew 
 them to the Dean (the Bp. of Rochester) ; kept them three weeks before he 
 could speak to the Bishop ; went to the A bp. of York, and shewed them ; next 
 morning the Abp. of York carried him to the Abp. of Canterbury at Lambeth, 
 and shewed them. After this he procured an exact drawing to be made of 
 them ; shewed them to Sir William Dugdale. 6 July, the Abp. of Canter- 
 bury told the Bp. of Rochester, who, about four that afternoon, sent for him, 
 and took him to Whitehall, that he might present them to the King, which he 
 did accordingly. The King ordered a new strong wooden coffin to be made to 
 inclose the broken one. The links of the chain oblong, and curiously wrought; 
 the upper part joined by a locket, composed of a large round nob of gold, 
 massy, in circumference as big as a milled shilling, half an inch thick ; round 
 this went a wire and half a dozen little beads, hanging loose, running to and 
 again on the same, all of pure gold, and finely wrought ; on each side of the 
 locket were set two large square stones (supposed to be rubies). From each side 
 of this locket, fixed to two rings of gold, the chain descends, and, meeting below, 
 passes through a square piece of gold of a convenient bigness, made hollow for 
 the same purpose. This gold, wrought into several angles, was painted with 
 divers colours, resembling gems or precious stones, to which the crucifix was 
 joined, yet to be taken off by help of a screw. The form of the cross nearest 
 that of an humettee flory (among the Heralds), or rather the botany [botonee], 
 yet the pieces not of equal length, the perpendicular beam being near one-fourth 
 part longer than the traverse, as being four inches to the extremity, whilst the 
 other scarce exceeds three ; yet all neatly turned at the ends, and the botons 
 enamelled with figures thereon. The cross, of the same gold as the chain, but 
 
6/0 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 exceeds it by its rich enamel, having on one side the picture of our Saviour 
 Christ in his passion wrought thereon, and an eye from above casting a kind 
 of beam on him ; on the reverse, picture of a Benedictine Monk in his habit, 
 and on each side of him these capital Roman letters : — 
 
 On the right, And on the left, 
 
 (A) P 
 ZAX A C 
 
 A H 
 This cross is hollow, to be opened by two little screws towards the top, wherein, 
 it is presumed, some relique might have been conserved. William I. com- 
 manded the coffin to be inshrined, and the shrine covered with plates of gold 
 and silver, adorned with pearls and precious stones. About 136* years after, the 
 Abbot resolved to inspect the body, said to be incorruptible, and on opening 
 found it to be so, being perfect, the limbs flexible ; the face covered : Gundolph, 
 Bishop of Rochester, withdrew the cover, but, with great reverence, covered 
 it again, changing the former vestments, and putting on others of equal price. 
 In 116*3, Thomas a Becket procured a canonization of the King, and in the 
 ceremony, the Abbot opened the coffin, found the body lying in rich vestments 
 of cloth of gold, having on his feet buskins of purple, and shoes of great 
 price ; the body uncorrupted ; removed the whole body from the stone reposi- 
 tory to another of wood, some assisting at the head, others at the arms and 
 legs ; they lifted it gently, and laid the corpse first on tapestry spread on the 
 floor, and then wrapping the same in silken cloaths of great value, they put it 
 into the wooden chest, with all those things that were found in the former, 
 except the gold ring which was on the King's finger, which the Abbot, out of 
 devotion, retained, and ordered it to be kept in the Treasury of the Abbey. 
 
 In 1226 K Henry III. again removed the coffin to a chapel built for the 
 purpose." 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 671 
 
 Commissioner Pett. (See vol. I. 359 ; vol. II. 18.) 
 
 There is a monument for him in Deptford Church with a most pompous 
 inscription: "qui fuit patriae deeus, patriae suae magnum munimentum ;" — 
 he not only restored our naval affairs, but he invented that excellent and new 
 ornament of the Navy which we call Frigate, formidable to our enemies, to us 
 most useful and safe : he was the Noah of his age, by this invention, like the 
 Ark, having almost snatched our dominion of the Seas and our rights from 
 Shipwreck. 
 
 THE END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. 
 
 Printed by John Nichols and Son, 
 Red Lion Passage, Fleel-street, London. 
 
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