BOOKSELLER j DONtCAU fLACt.\ | j BCLFAST li 4i' ?A"- THE VICISSITUDES OF THE ETERNAL CITY; OR, ANCIENT HOME: mit\) i^ottS Cla^^tcal auU ?liitoncaI. BY JAMES WHITESIDE, ESQ., A.M., M.ll.I.A., ONE OF HER MAJESTy's COUNSEL. AUTHOE OF " ITALY IN THE NINETEENTH CENTUnY." ' Quocunquc ingredimur, in aliquam historiam vestigium ponimus." CiCKRO. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, 30itbltgljcr in (rUtuari) to Jftcr i^Hajcsiti). 1849. DEDICATION. TO R. W., THIS VOLUME IS AFfKCTIONATELY INSCRIHED, IN UEME.MBRANCF. OF TWO IIAl'PY WINTERS SPENT TOGETHER IN THE ETEUNAI, CITY. Jane, 1849. PREFACE. The topography of Ancient Rome is here pre- sented to the reader, translated from the work of II Cavaliere Canina, the distinguished Italian archi- tect and antiquary. Great labour and industry have been bestowed upon it by the learned author, who applied to this subject a mind long familiar with antiquarian researches. His descriptions are concise, and his opinions are in general sustained by sufficient authority. Wherever the note appended to the text is by Canina, the letter C is subjoined ; where tliat writer is not responsible for the note, the letter W. is printed. All the celebrated monuments raised in Rome down to the removal of the scat of empire by Con- stantine, of which any evidence can be procured, VI PREFA(^E. are here placed in their proper positions, and in tlieir appropriate Regions. The reader will perceive the contents of each Region to be numbered ; this is done in order that they may correspond with Canina''s topographical map described in the Introductory Observations, and for the conve- nience of those who may happen to visit Rome. For those who cannot enjoy that pleasure, the Map herewith given will suffice. It is hoped that this book will prove a suitable companion to the volumes entitled " Italy in the Nineteenth Century," and a useful hand-book for travellers. As Canina treats only of the public build- ings of the city, a chapter has been drawn up on the street architecture of Ancient Rome, and in reference to the domestic comforts of her citizens. In order to trace the progressive changes of Rome from the downfall of the Western Empire to the present day, a sketch has been added of the vicissitudes of the Eternal City. In describing the works of restoration effected during the French administration of Rome, that is, from 1809 to 1814, the valuable book of the Count de PREFACE. VU Tournon, Prefect under the Emperor Napoleon, has been made use of. The inscriptions on the ancient monuments and medals referred to by Canina are care- fully given ; while his classical references, frequently misprinted or mistaken in the Italian, have been, it is believed, accurately corrected. Dublin, June, 1849. CONTENTS. Introductory Observations. The Topography of Ancient Rome by Canina. ... 1 REGION I. PORTA CAPENA. 1. Fountain and Temple of Mercury, 2. Temple of Honour and Virtue. 3. Fountain and Temple of the Muses. 4. Mutatorium of Csesar. 5. Temple of Mars. 6. Se- pulchre of the Scipios. 7. Temple of the Tempest. 8. Sepulchre of the Furian and Manilian families. 9. Se- pulchre of the household of Augustus, near to the Porta Latina. 10. Common Sepulchre. 11. Arch of Drusus. The River Almo. . . . . . .25 REGION II. CELIMONTANA. 1. Temple of Claudius. 2. Arch of Dolabclla and Si- lanns. 3. Quarters of Foreign Soldiers. 4. Quarters of the Albani. 5. The Great Market. 6. House of Vitellius. 7. Campus jMartius. 8. House of INIarcus Aurclius. 9. House of Laterani. 10. Fifth Cohort of the Watch. 11. The little Cclian and Chapel of Diana. 12. Public Baths. 13. House of Philip. 14. Campus Fontinalis. Ncronian Arches. . . . . . .38 REGION III. ISIS AND SKUAPIS. 1. The Flavian Amphitheatre. 2. Baths of Titus. o. Reservoirs of Water. 4. Batlis of Trajan. o. Estjuiliiie .Scptizouium. (i. Pul)lic Fountain of Claudius. 7. School for Gyuuiastic Kxercises. S. Baths of Philip. 9. Quarters of tlie Misenati. 10. Portico of Livia. 11. Receptacle fur Macliinerv used in tlie Public Games. . . .52 XII CONTENTS REGION IV. TEMPLE OF PEACE, OR THE SACKED WAY. PAGB The Sacred Way described. 1. A Fountain called Mctu Sudans. 2. The Colossal Statue of Nero. 3. The Temple ofVenus and Rome. 4. Arch of Titus. 5. Public Market on a Hill. (5. Basilica of Constantino. 7. Portico, so called. 8. Temple of Rome. 9. Temple of Antoninus and Faus- tina. 10. Basilica of Paulus Emiliiis. 11. Forum of Pas- sage. 12. Temple of Peace. 13. Temple of the Eartii. 14. Temple of the Sun and of the Moon (in Look, but not in map). House of Pompey and Vicus Sccleratus. The Suburra. Vicus Sandalarius. .... (J'> REGION V. THE ESQUILINE. 1. Temple of Jupiter Vimineus. Temple of Venus Ery- cina. Pretorian Camp. Viminal Field (in the book, not in the margin of Canina's map). -2. Batlis of Olympia. Baths of Novatus and house of Pudens (in book, not in maj)). 3. Bath of Agrippina. Palace of Servius Tullius (in book, not in map). 4. Temple of Sylvanus. ."). Temjde of .luiio Lucina. 6. Market. 7. Arcli of Gallicnus. 8. Camp of Misenati (in map, not in book). 9. Reservoirs of the Julian Fountain. 10. Sepulchre unknown. 11. Sepulchre of the Arunzi. 12. Temple of Minerva Medica. 13. Sessorium. Basilica Liciniana (in book, not in ma])). 14. Anii)hi- theatrc of the Camp. 15. Reservoirs of Water. Hi. Cluu- dian Aqueduct, and that called New Anio. Tomb of Eurysaccs (not in the map). Tcmjile of Ancient Hope (not in the map). 17. Aqueduct of tiie Mureian, Tepulan, and Julian A\'aters. 18. Aijueduet of the New Anio, and A{)pian A\'ater. Baths of Helena (in botik, not in map). Circus named Varianus (in book, not in map). 19. Tiie Street Sandalarius (on tlic map of contents. Region V., liul described in the last paragrapii by Canina in Region IV.). . 8:i CONTENTS. Xlll REGION VI. ALTA SEMITA. PAGE Circus of Flora (in book, not in map). 1. Temple of Flora. 2. Temple of Quirinus. 3. Temple of Public For- tune. 4. Temple of Health. 5. The Ancient Capitol. 6. Baths of Constantine. 7. Temple of Serapis. 8. Temple of Apollo and Clathra. 9. Baths of Paulus. Baths of Dio- cletian (in book, not in map). Temple of Fortune (in book, not in map). Circus of Sallust (in book, not in map). 10. Temple of the Sallustiau Venus. 11. Portico of one thousand feet. 12. Sallustian Forum. Gardens of Sallust (in book, not in map). 13 and 14. Reservoirs of Diocletian. 108 REGION VII. VIA LATA BROAT) WAY, 1. Gardens so called. 2. Forum Archemorium, 3. Tem- ple of the Sun. 4. Portico of Constantine. 5. Forum Suarium or IMarket for sale of Swine. 6. Quarters of the Genziani. 7. Tomb ofBibulus. 8. Tomb of the Claudian Family. Via Lata (in book, not in map). 9. Arch of Gor- dianus. 10. Arch of Claudius, so called. 11. Arch of Verus and of Marcus. 12. Schools of Domitian for Gym- nastic Exercises. 13. Public Baths. 14. Tcmjde of Isis. 15. Field of Agrippa. Diribitorium (in book, not in map). 125 REGION VIII. ROMAN FORT.M. 1. .Julian Ciu'ia. 2. Comitium. 3. The Grajcostasis. 4. Arch of Fal)ius. 5. Temple of Castor and Pollux. 0. Temple of Vesta. 7. Julian Basilica. S. Temple of Cssar. !). Temple of Saturn. 10. Arch of Tiberias. 11. Temple of Vespnsian. 12. Temple of Fortime. 13. School of Zanta. 14. Temjde of Thundering Jove. 1."). Temple of XIV CONTENTS. PAGE Concord. 16. Mamertine Prisons. 17. Arch of Soptimius Severus. 18. Ba.silica Paulus Einiliu.s. 19. Secretary's Office (of the Senate). 20. Column of Pliocas, 21, Forum of Caesar. 22. Forum of Augustus. 23. Forum of Trajan. 24. Ulpian Basilica. 25. Column of Trajan. 26. Tem- ple of Trajan. 27. Basilica of Silversmiths. 28. Forum Boarium. 29. Arch of Septimius Severus. 30. Arch named Quadrifons. 31. Temple of the Goddess of the Morning. 32. Temple of Fortune. 33. Temple of Hercules. 34. Chapel of Modesty. 35. Temple of Carmenta. 36. Re- gistry Office of Senate. 37. Temple of young Jupiter. 38. Citadel of the Capital 39. Curia Calabra. 10. Temple of Juno Moneta. 41. Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus. 42. Temple of Preserving Jove. The following, not named in map, are described in the book. Julian Rostri Rostri more ancient. Portico of the Twelve consenting Gods. The Capitol. Equimelium. Sewer. Other buildings of the Forum of Trajan. Ulpian Library. Temple of Janus. . 142 REGION IX. FLAMINIAN CIRCUS. 1. Theatre of Marcellus. 2. Portico of Octavia. 3. Temple of Hercules. 4. Ancient Temple of Apollo. 5. Temple of Belloiia. C. Granaries ofMinutius. 7. Temple of Hercules Custos. 8. Portico of Pliilip. '.). Theatre of Balbus. 10. Theatre ofPompey. 11. Portico of a Hundred Columns. 12. Arch of Tiberius. 13. Curia of Pompey. 14. Corinthian Portico of Octavius. 15. Pantlicon of Agrippa. 16. Baths of Agri{)pa. 17. Lake of Agrippa. 18. Baths of Nero. 19. Aqueduct of the water, called Virgine. 20. Tcm])le of Juturna. 21. Basilica of Mutidia. 22. Basilica of IVIarcian. 23. Portico of Pola. 24. A Palace, so named. 2.5. Temple of Isis. 2(). Temple of Serapis. 27. Temple of Minerva. 28. Temple of Minerva Calcidica. 29. Portico and Temple of Nej)tune. 30. Por- tico of Meleager. 31. Temjile of Antoninus and Column of Aurelius. 32. Column of Antoninus. 33. Anipliitheatrc of Statilius Taurus. 34. Portico of Europa. 3.5. Arch, so CONTENTS. XV PAGE called. 36. Solar Clock of Augustus. 37. The Mausoleum of Augustus. 38. Caesarean Pile. 39. Sepulchre of Agrippa. 40. Gardens of Domitian family. 41. Gardens of Lu- cuUus. Places described in the book, and not in the map. Temple of Neptune. Campus Martins. Temple of Mars. Circus Agonalis. The Septa. The Equirium. The Lesser Campus. Domitian Sepulchre. . . . 191 REGION X. PALATILM. 1. Temple of Jupiter Stator. 2. Temple of Ramnusia. 3. Principal Entrance to the Palace. 4. Greek and Latin Library. 5. Temples of Cybele, of Bacchus, and of Juno Sospita. 6. House of Augustus. 7. Temple of Apollo. 8. Temple of Conquering Jove. 9. Temple of Vesta Pala- tina. 10. Tiberian House. 11. Additional Building of Cahgula. 12. Temple of Augustus. 13. Part of the Palace added by Nero. 14. Palatine Baths. 15. Palatine Area. 16. Gardens of Adonis. 17. Temple of Pallas. 18. Septi- zoniiim of Septimius Severus. Arch of Constantino Augura- torium (in Book not on Map) Clivus Victorise. . . 234 REGION XL CIUCCS MAXIMUS. 1 . Temple of Ceres and of Proserpine. 2. Temple of Ceres and of Hercules Pompeianus. 3. Temple of Mercury. 4. Temple of Portumnus. 5. Temple of Vesta. 6. Temple of Castor called of Fortune. 7. House of Rienzi. 8. Fo- rum Olitoriuni, or Herb Market. 9. Temples of Piety, of Juno Matut.a, and of Hope. 10. Arch of Lentulus. . 252 REGION XII. risriNA riiii.icA. 1. Seven Houses of the Parthians. 2. House of Chilo. 3. Area Radicaria. 4. House of Cornificius. 5. Temj)le of Isis Alheuodoria. Batlis of Curaealla (not in Map). . 2fc'5 XVI CONTENTS. REGION XIII. THE AVENTINE. 1. Temple of Diana Communis. 2. Temple of Minerva. 3. Baths of Sura. 4. The Decian Baths. 5. Temple of the Moon. 6. Temple of Juno Rcgina. 7. Temple and Atrium of Liberty. 8. The Fabarian Portico. 9. The Emilian Portico. 10. Granaries of Lollius. 11. Sepiilchre of Caius Ccstius. Monte Testaccio (not in Map). . . . 271 REGION XIV. TRANSTIBERINA, 1. Temple of Esculapius. 2. Temple of Jupiter. 3. Tem- ple of Faunus. 4. Mausoleum of Hadrian. 5. Tomb of Scipio Africanus. 6. Area Septimiana. 7. Various Houses. 288 CHAPTER XV. Difference between Grecian and Roman Architecture. Street Architecture of Rome. Nero's projected Reforms. Had the Houses Floors, Windows, or Chimneys? How did the People live 1 Juvenal's Account of their Domestic Comforts. . . . . . .301 CHAPTER XVI. SKETCH OF THE VICISSITIDES OF THE CITY. . .309 Page ERRATA. 7, line 26, for Fontuna read Fontana. ih. ,. 30, Nea , Fea. 16, ,. 7, QtMttre , Qtiattro. 16. ,, 29, Labricana , Labicana. 29, ., 4, at , and. 30, ,, 3, Notitia , , Notitise. 47, ,, 29, note, accipiet , accipiat. 50, 31, note. appellatum , ad bella. 50, 34, Thuscum , , Tuscura. 52, 8, Appius , Oppius. 90, .. 13, Marcello , , Macello. 93, ,, 21, Sculio , Serlio. 93, ., 26, ancira , ancyrana. 94, ., 3, wall , hall. 96, 4, waters , aqueducts. 96. ,, 4, note, VERBKM , VRBEM. 96, 7, note, RERDVCTAS . perdvctas 103, .. 7, dele waters 107, 10. for Senecus ,, Severus. 142, ,. 13, Quadritrons , Quadrifons. ib. 22, Esquimilium , Equimelium 158, ,, 13, Transcription , Inscription. ib. ib. inscribed , Transcribed. 178, 13, Quadrifrons , Quadrifons. 183, ,, 3, note, Tupiter , Jupiter. 183, ,, 5, ?iote. Anicrana , Ancyrana. 198, ., 14, Cenei , Cenei. 202, .. 20, Guippona , Guipponari. 218, ,. 6, Nardius , Nardini. ib. ., 1, note. inqiiit , linquit. 235, 1, note. Palladia , Pallida. 238, ,, 3, 9wte, Addita , Addidit. 242. ,. 5, 7iote, quos , quas. ib. 7, wfc. ipso , ipse. 244, ,, 8, note. locutione , locatione. 273, 9, Suetonius , Dionysius. ib. 7, note. Sacra , Sura. 277, 3, Nardius , Nardini. 290, .. 12, Ancyra , Ancyrana. 291, 2 Janicular , Janiculum. 292, ,, 7, no<<;. Sustinendus , Sustineiidis. TOPOGRAPHY OF ANCIENT EOME. INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS. THE TOPOGRAPHY OF ANCIENT ROME BY CANINA. Desirous of investigating tlie plan of Ancient Rome, in order to understand the divisions of the city, their separate boundaries, what buildings they contained, and where, exactly, the famous edifices stood I ex- amined the works of learned travellers and antiquarians, and the modern guide-books. Some contained partial notices of Ancient and Modern Rome, confusing the reader by the juxta position ; others described chiefly palaces and pictures; others were diffuse on unimportant particulars. Burton and Nibby had not the advantage of recent discoveries, and are considered, in many partic- ulars, mistaken and unsatisfactory. The plan of the city, by Nolli, was printed in 1784. The book of Nardini, published some fifteen years later, Gibbon pronounces to be imperfect, and, although learned, immethodical ; sometimes obscure invariably diffuse. That writer delighted in starting needless difficulties, which he did not always remove. Sir John Hobhouse observes : " A hundred years have not furnished the desired plan of the city. Whoever sliould attempt a general view of the subject, would have to brush away the cobwebs of erudition, with which even the modern discoveries are partially ob- scured." 2 INTRODUCTORY OBSLRVATIONS TO THE Hobliousc objects to the praise lavished on Venuti by Forsythe, and subsequently remarks : " The insufficiency of all latter labours, and the necessity of some new guide, may be collected from the expedient at last adopted of republishing Nardini. What has been said of the embarrassment of a stranger at Rome, must appear more singular when it is recollected, that, besides the casual efforts of natives and foreigners, there is an archaeological society constantly at work upon the antiquities of the city and neighbourhood." Under these circumstances, I looked about for the best guide-book to enable me to understand tiie topo- graphical plan of Ancient Rome, which, unless clearly comprehended, renders sight-seeing a confusing occu- pation, and, so far as Imperial Rome is concerned, a mere waste of time ; and I happily found an univer- sal agreement of opinion amongst Italians and English, Frencli antiquaries and authors, including the best of our own writers on Roman topography (Sir William Gell), as to the extensive learning, indefatigable in- dustry, and intimate acquaintance with his subject of the Cavalicre Canina. He has had great advantages from modern disco- veries, from the labours of the French, and from the researches of Niebuhr and Bunsen ; his whole lifetime has been devoted to antiquarian investigations, in which Canina acquired a deserved and general reputation. I'he title he enjoys, has been conferred upon him as a mark of distinction for his arcliseological knowledge. The Cavalicre Canina prepared a very large map or plan of Old Rome, and compiled an excellent topogra- pliical book, describing accurately, yet not diffusely, TOPOGRAPHY OF ANCIENT ROME BY CANINA. 3 Ancient Rome. To this valuable guide is prefixed a preliminary essay, explanatory of the history of the foundation, growth, and ultimate grandeur of the city. I propose to explain the map and give a translation of the whole book, convinced that, by this humble labour, I render an essential service to the traveller and the scholar, and I would fain hope it may not be unwel- come to the general reader. Gibbon, in the last note to his history, observes : " Montfau9on still sighs for a more complete plan and de- scription of the old city, which must be attained by the three following methods : 1. The measurement of the space and intervals of the ruins. 2. The study of inscriptions, and the places where they were found. 3. The investiga- tion of all the acts, charters, and diaries of the middle ages w'hich name any spot or building of Rome." It will appear Canina has not been inattentive to this proposed method ; the ancient inscriptions he copies are very instructive, while his references to the classics are co])ious and felicitous. I shall be excused, I trust, for having expanded occasionally his classical references, added several new quotations, together with some his- torical explanatory notes, which may not be found un- useful to the matter of Canina*'s text, or in refreshing the recollection of the reader. I have followed up the work on Ancient Rome with a chapter on the differences between Grecian and Roman architecture, and in re- ference to the street architecture of Old Rome, and cou- chuled the volume with a sketch of the vicissitudes of the Eternal City. 'I'lie work of Canina is confined to Rome, and does 4 INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS TO THE not include the Campagna. Let me advise the travel- ler to procure the large sheet published in Rome, to be had in the Corso, a few doors from the Condotti, en- titled " Avanzi dei piu cospicui edifici antichi di Roma c sue adiaccnzi,'" containing a representation of all the existing monuments and buildings of Ancient Rome and its vicinity. I reckon, including the ruins in the Cam- pagna and near the city, ninety-six objects of classical interest. Examining the representation of the object he intends to visit on this sheet, the present condition of the building or ruin is seen ; referring if necessary to Canina's map, its exact position in ancient Rome is fixed ; and reading the description here translated for his use, the traveller thereby will combine with the pleasure of his pursuit useful or exact information, and, moreover, retain clear ideas of Ancient Rome for the re- mainder of his life. For the assistance of the general reader, and those travellers who may not feel disposed to obtain Canina's topographical plan, a clear, and, for general purposes, a sufficiently explicit map of Ancient Rome, shewing the difference between the walls of Servius Tullius and the more extensive walls of Hono- rius and Aurelian, together with the site of the princi- pal places and many of the most remarkable edifices of Ancient Rome, has been prepared and printed for this book. It will be found useful in reading the pre- liminary essay to make occasional reference to this map.'^ ' A neat map of Ancient Rome has been also published, in a cheap forni, by tlie Society for the Diti'usion of Useful Knowledge. It docs not entirely agree with that by Canina. TOPOGRAPHY OF ANCIENT ROME BY CANINA. 5 I now proceed to bring Ancient Rome fully under the notice of the reader, by help of the book described, of which a fourth Italian edition lias recently been published. The work is entitled " Indicazione Topografica di Roma Antica. Dislribuita nelle xiv. Regioni. Del Architetto Cav. Luigi Canina.'''' It contains a brief prefoce, a preliminary discourse, and a topographical description of Ancient Rome, divided into fourteen regions or districts, each numbered. The last edition of the original work is improved by notices of the late excavations, and increased by very important do- cuments which have been fortunately preserved. The book indicates the situation and epoch of the erection of those principal public edifices which were raised on the soil of Ancient Rome from its first existence, down to the removal of the seat of the Roman Empire to the East. The most probable disposition of the city itself, and of its progressive additions, arc referred to. A grand topographical map of Ancient Rome elucidates the descriptions of the book. There will be found marked on it the situation of the chief buildings of the city, and of the different fortifications constructed around it, and the form likewise of the hills. More- over, there is traced in tinla chiara the disposition of the principal modern buildings contained within the last encl(sure of the city. The map next exhibits outside the tr.icing of the walls, fac-similes of the best preserved of the fragments of the famous ancient plan, which is proved to have B 3 6 INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS TO THE been carved in marble, at the epoch in which Septimius Severus ruled the Empire. The author modestly alludes to his antiquarian re- searches, continued for years on the spot, to determine the exact position and form of the remains of the tem- ples, monuments, and buildings described, and their most probable structure when perfect. No description is attempted of the secondary streets and passages of the ancient city ; the inquiry into their true position would be futile. The descriptions, and also the map, arc distributed according to the fourteen regions into which the city was divided in the early period of the Empire, and according to the well known catalogues of the writers called Regionaries, who described and numbered the divisions of Rome ; and the temples, monuments, and buildings are transcribed at the head of every region, according as they stand within that district. Thus the author gives a succinct idea of the topo- graphy of the ancient city, which if not true, is at least most conformable to all the notices which the writings of the ancients, the inscriptions, the observa- tions of modern authors, and the remaining ruins of the fabrics present. Before we proceed, I should describe this large topo- graphical map, Avhich deserves no common praise ; it is three feet and a half long, and five broad ; the outer margin contains the fourteen regions, their respective titles, and the contents of each. Thus, looking at region No. i, you read the table of contents in the margin, and if you wish to find the TOPOGRAPHY OF ANCIENT ROME BY CANINA. 7 sepulchre of Scipio, you perceive it is numbered 6 in that region ; you then refer to that number in the body of the map, in the region numbered i, in large cha- racters, and you have its exact position. If, in addition to the local position of the sepulchre of a race of heroes, you wish to read the description of the same, you refer to the book, region i, title " Sepol- cro delle Scipioni," the same as given in the margin of the map, and you have the written narrative. There are no numbers given to the contents of each region in the book, because the map is not attached to the work, nor meant to be always sold therewith; either may be had separately, and as the book is expensive, and not translated, my object is to enable the traveller to take the miap only if he requires it, and to dispense with the book ; and also I shall rejoice, if I can present to the eye of the English reader, comfortably seated by his happy fireside, a picture of what the mighty city of Rome was, when she ruled the world. In his preliminary discourse, the author mentions the materials which have directed his researches the classi- cal writings the fragments of the ancient Capitoline plan then those designs published by San Gallo, which arc in the Barberini library ; and those of Ligorio and of Fulvio, that are in the library of the Vatican ; and the well-known designs of Palladio, Fontuna, Desgo- datz, Piranesi, and other distinguished antiquaries who have illustrated the ancient monuments ; and lastly, the works of Biondio, Fulvio, Marliano, Donati, Nardini, Fabretti, Venuti, Guattani, Piale, Uggcri, Hea, Vis- conti, Nibby, Mclchiorri, Burges, Bunsen, and other 8 INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS TO THE renowned authors who have described the topography of Ancient Rome, a formidable list of authorities un- doubtedly, and requiring no common industry and skill to examine, compare, and systematize. The fragments of the ancient plan in the Capitol, those famous remains of the old plan of the city, carved in marble, which now exist in the walls of the staircase of the Capitoline museum make it necessary to add some notices concerning their discovery, and the state in which they remain. In the first place is to be observed, that from an in- scription we see cut in one of these same fragments, referring to the path of Victory ascending tovt^ards the Palatine, we conclude it to have been a plan made under the Emperor Septlmius Severus, and Antoninus his son. We know also from many other fragments, that in this plan of Ancient Rome were marked not only the forms of public edifices, but even of some private buildings : and therefore recognizing in tins a precious monument, it would have been the greatest help we could have desired, in determining in all parts the topo- gTaphy of Ancient Rome, if in its integrity the draught had come down to us, but instead, broken up in the pe- riod when other remarkable monuments were ruined, there have remained to us only a few fragments, dis- joined and much injured, which were found in the fifteenth century behind the churcli of tlie Saints Cosimo and Damian ; and these, after their discovery, were even still more damaged by neglect. The circular temple making part of this church, is believed to have been dedicated to Romulus and Remus, whence it is con- TOPOGRAPHY OF ANCIENT ROME BY CANINA. 9 eluded that this plan was carved to serve as the pave- ment of the temple ; which, however, no writing in existence proves. " Nevertheless," writes Canina, " I think the supposition not improbable, that the plan might have been destined to this use, on occasion of the restoration of the temple under the Emperor Septimius Severus, as an object well suited to the founder of the city, to whom the temple was in part con- secrated. " Such a place being afterwards respected as sacred, was not liable to have its pavement much trampled. Moreover, if we consider that the ancients formed their pavements with mosaics and other precious materials, the belief will not be extravagant that such a work, sculptured with deep incisions in marble, may have been placed in such a temple ; and the probability is greater, if it be recollected, that had the same plan been attached to a partition wall, it would not have been with advantage, in reference to its size, so as to enable the observer to distinguish all the particular sketches carved in each table of which it was composed. "Nor is the supposition reasonable, that the same plan might have been distributed in so many tables separate from each other, because thus it would not have presented a com- plete idea of the general form of the city, to which use it was designed." The history of these fragments is then given from the time of their discovery to their ultimate removal to the Capitol, where they arc now preserved. In the iiuthor"'s description of tlie plan of Rome, are distinguished all those fragments which can be recog- nized by any remains as having belonged to a known edifice.* * I a(li)])t, with slight abbreviations, the words of Canina lieiiccforward . [ W. ] 10 INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS TO THE The early enclosures of Rome. The original city which Romulus founded, or others before him, according to many opinions, was built on the Palatine Mount only , and Romulus determined its limits by a furrow which he ploughed round the hill, following the Etruscan rites. This furrow was commenced, according to the description of Tacitus, from the Forum Boarium, where there was placed a bull of bronze, in memorial of this animal having been at that time subjected to the plough, and there was enclosed in the interior of the circumference the grand altar of Hercules. Thence Romulus placing stones at certain distances on the side of the Palatine Hill, approached to the altar of Consus,* which stood near to the great circus, and then passed by the old Curia to the temple of the household gods, and to the Forum Romanum. In this manner was enclosed the square Rome (Roma Quadrata), so called by the ancients, from the figure presented by the space around the hill, and from this operation originated the Pomerium,-f- by which the limits of towns were determined in subsequent times. * Consus a God, said to be Neptune, (or Neptunus Equester, Auson. Epig. 68, and Tertull. de Spec. 5,) also Deus Consilii or Consilioruin Secretorum. Cf. Liv., i. 9, where we read, " Ludos parat Neptuno Equestri solennes ; Consualia vocant." An altar was dedicated to this god under the earth in tlie Circus Alaximus, which was not opened unless during the Circensian games, that it might he shewn that counsels should he concealed. [^W.] + Pcmioerium. The wall being built upon this line, traced by the plough, they called it Pomariuni, from pone mania. Some derive tlie word from post murum, or pone niurvs, or (/nasi pro- murum, i, e. proximum mure; it is commonly understood to have been a certain space about the walls of a city or town, as well within us without; in which it was not lawful to plough, dwell, TOPOGRAPHY OF ANCIENT ROME BY CANINA. 11 In the fortification of this circle with walls and towers in order to give Rome security from the arms of the Sabines, as Dionysius has written, three gates are principally noticed by Pliny to have been made, the names of two only are accurately known : one called Mugonia, and the other Romana, or Romanula. The first was placed where Romulus began the furrow to describe the circle around his city, and the second in the centre of the eastern side of the hill. By the agreement made after the Sabine war between Romulus and Titus Tatius, to Rome squared and to the Tarpeian Hill (which was united to the city), was added part of the other two hills one called the Quirinal, the other the Celian. This last hill Romulus held with the Palatine; and the Quirinal with the Tar- peian were assigned to Titus Tatius. Numa Pompilius amplified the circuit of the walls by enclosing that part of the Quirinal which had been occupied by Tatius and those who with him were united to the Roman people. The Celian Hill, inhabited from the time of Romulus, was surrounded with walls by Tullus Hostilius, successor of Numa, when, after having destroyed Alba, he con- ducted the Albans to inhabit his own city ; and, in order that this hill might be more quickly inhabited, Tullus erected there his palace, and made it his residence. Dionysius and Livy narrate that under the reign of Ancus Martins, the Avcntine was united to the city, and being encompassed by walls and ditches, was in- or build. It was also supposed no person had a right to extend the Powaritirn, but such an individual as had enlarged the limits of the Empire " Et pomoerium urbis auxit Caesar more prisco." Tacitus, Ann, xii, 23. [W.] 12 INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS TO THE habited by the people transported from Tellcnae, Poli- torium,* and other cities then subdued. Under the same Ancus Martius, they girt with walls that part of the Janiculum which looks towards the Aventine, thereby to establish a fortification of defence for those who navigated the river against the attacks of the Etrus- cans, and this was united to the city by means of the Sublician Bridge. All these enclosures being evidently built with little solidity, and in a coarse manner, as stated by Dionysius, Tarquinius Priscus was led to undertake their reconstruction with large stones cut in a regular form ; but the execution of this work was sus- pended, first, by a war he had with the Sabines, and, secondly, by his death. This was the last enlargement of the city, and thus by adding to the five hills the Palatine, Capitoline, Aventine, Celian, and Quirinal, the two others, namely, the Viminal, and Esquilinc, the city itself was composed of these seven hills, not including, however, in that number the part of the Jani- culum enclosed by Ancus Martius, which in the early ages of Rome was considered but as a simple fortress. In order to trace the position of several ancient edi- fices, it is essential to understand the circle encompassed by the walls built by Servius, because the city properly so called was not girt by any other walls down to the time of the decline of the Empire under Aurelian. Dionysius, describing the defence made by the Ro- mans against the incursions of the Equi and the Volsci, observed, that this circuit of walls was partly situated on the brow of the hills and steep rocks, very strong by nature, and wanting little defence ; and the other LivY. i. 33. TOPOGRAPHY OF ANCIENT ROME BY CANINA. 13 part of the city, placed along the Tiber, was secured by the river itself. The spot most easy of attack was that occupying the space lying between the Esquiline gate and the Collina ; this was strengthened by art. A fosse was excavated at least 100 feet broad and 30 feet deep ; and on the bank of this fosse, according to Dionysius, was erected a wall, supported by a high large platform, so that it could neither be shaken by the battering- ram nor be destroyed by mining under the foundations ; this spot was about seven stadii * in length. The same writer, speaking of the extension of the wall that enclosed the city in his time, observed, it would be found that the circuit of Rome did not much exceed that of the celebrated city of Athens. Thus, knowing from Thucydides that the circuit of Athens (not comprising the extent of the long walls of the Piraeus, which properly did not form part of the circuit of the city, and which at the time of Dionysius were in great part destroyed) was sixty stadii, comprising, however, the space that was between the walls of the Pirseus and that of Phalerius, the circuit of Rome is determined as little exceeding that of Athens, being sixty-five stadii, or between eight and nine miles. The wall of Servius Tullius, from its extremity at the Tiber under the Tarpcian, began between the Palatine bridge and the theatre of Marcellus, which we know stood, without the city, in the Campus Martins ; and the bridge mentioned was placed within the limit of the city towards the Roman Forum. In this first portion of the wall, which reached from the river to the bottom of the hill, there were, according to the best opinions, three distinct * The studio is one eidith of a mile. 14 INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS TO THE gates. The first, situated in a passage which ran behind the stage of the theatre of Marcellus (the situation of which may be seen on Canine's map. No. i, region ix), is proved by some passages in Livy, wherein many inun- dations are described, to have been called Flumentana.* The second, which probably stood on the space situ- ated in front of the theatre of Marcellus and the por- tico of Octavia, is believed to have been denominated Triumphale, from the ingress to the city through it made by those who triumphed. The third gate, situated at the foot of the Tarpeian, was designated Carmentale, from the temple or altar of Carmenta, mother of Evander, which stood near. These three ancient gates are marked on the map of Canina ; and the disparity between the walls of Tullius and those of Aurelius will there be seen at a glance. * Porta Flumentana. " Ita prodicta die, in Poetelinum lucuni extra portam Flumentanam, unde conspectus in Capitolium non esset, concilium populi indictum est." Livy, vi. 20. Others, however, read in this passage Nomentanam, and for this reason, that the Porta Flumentana, by which they went into the Campus Martius, was very near to the Capitol, which could consequently be seen from thence by IManlius, and the people. Nardini, in his work on "Ancient Rome," thinks that we should here rather read extra portam Nomentanam, as most remote from the Capitol, and leading into a place from whence its view was entirely taken away by the mound of Servius Tullius, &c. The other places in Livy in wliich the Porta Flumentana is directly mentioned are XXXV. 9. " Aquae ingentes eo anno fuerunt et Tiberis loca plana urbis inundavit. Circa portam Flumentanam etiam conlapsa quaedam ruinis sunt." And xxxv. 2\. "Tiberis, infestiorc quam priore impctu inlatus urbi, duo pontes, redificia multa, maxime circa portam Flumentanam, evertit." Which passages also fully illustrate my experience of the destructive inundations of the Italian rivers at the present day. [^V''.] TOPOGRAPHY OF ANCIENT ROME BY CANINA. 15 The wall of Servius then ascended the northern back of the Tarpeian, and, jointly with the rock, whick we know to have been on this side very rugged, formed the circle within which the citadel Avas raised on this hill. Reaching thence to the other elevation of the Capi- toline, on which stood the great Temple of Jupiter, the wall plainly descended near to the spot where stands the sepulchre of Bibulus, which, the custom that the Romans had of not burying within the city, proves to have been outside the walls. This sepulchre, with others adjacent, indicates the contiguity of a public road, and consequently a gate corresponding thereunto in the walls namely, the Ratumena, which the old writers place near to the Capitol. In the valley between the Capitoline and Quirinal, before Trajan, to make his forum cut away the eleva- tion, the wall of Servius, following clearly the direction of most elevation, ascended the back of the Quirinal, thence pursuing the form of the hill, passed along the higher part of the gardens of the Colonna, where the remains of the vast Temple of the Sun point out the site. From the eastern extremity of this place, passing by the circus of Flora, situate under the Barbcrini Palace, the Avail reached the position noAv occupied bv the celebrated gardens of Sallust, aboA'e the circus placed in them. Here remains of a wall, constructed of square stones, Avere discovered, Avhich are believed to have belonged to the wall of Servius. In the circuit described amongst tlie different gates of the citv com- municating with tlie Campus Martins, are specially to be distinguished the Saii^iialc, and the Salalarc : tlie 16 INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS TO THE first deriving its name from tlie Temple of Blood "which stood near, is referred to the top of the actual ascent of Monte Cavallo ;* and the second, distin- guished by its name, in consequence of its vicinity to the Temple of Health, was situated at the head of the other ascent of the Quirinal, towards the place now called Le Qnattre Fontane. Near the upper extremity of the circus of Sallust, where the Quirinal is undistinguished by any further elevation, was made the celebrated trench of Servius. By common consent the gate Collina is here placed in a line with an ancient way, which passing along the northern side of the baths of Diocletian, stretched towards the Porta Nomentana (now Porta Pia) in the enclosure of Aurelian, and branched towards the Porta Sahara in the same circuit. The famous trench, Strabo and others shew to have been begun at the Porta Collina, and to have ended at the Esquiline, and to have been six or seven stadii long. In lie centre of this work was placed the gate called, from the hill of that name, the Viminal. There is uncertainty in the situation of the wall of Servius from the Esquiline gate to the Celian ; but considering that it is doubtful whether that part of the Celian, on which stands the Lateran basilica, was ex- cluded, and that two summits of the Esquiline, Oppio and Cispio, were included by Servius, it is believed the wall, following the declivity of the same elevation under the sette sale, joined the way now denominated Labricana, in the narrow part of the valley, lying between the Esquiline and the Celian. * Where tlie Pope's summer palace is built. TOPOGRAPHY OF ANCIENT ROME BY CANINA. 17 In tliis valley stood the Porta Querquentulana, so called from an oak wood which stood near the walls. Servius then conducted his wall towards the Porta di San Giovanni, thence following the brow of the Celian, below the Stefano Rotondo, and the Villa Mattel, and so reached the narrow space of the valley separating the Celian from the Aventine, where stood the Porta Capena. There was also in the line marked by the arches of Nero the Porta Celimontana. From the Porta Capena the wall ascended the Aventine, evidently under the Church of S. Balbina, where that hill approaches the Celian, and continuing to follow the sinuosities of the Aventine, properly so called, terminated at the Tiber, near to the Sub- lician Bridge, where anciently stood the Porta Tre- gemina. This circle described agrees with the measurement of sixty stadii. These walls prescribed the limits of the city properly so called, although covered in a great degree by buildings erected round about them, down to the period that the Romans by their greatness and power lost all fear of foreign invasion. Dionysius, alluding to the vastness of Rome in the time of Augustus, writes : " If any man, beholding the buildings which had sprung up, wished to calculate the size of the city, he would have certainly erred, since he could not have found any mark to distinguish how far the town spread, and where it ended, insomuch tluit the suburbs united to Rome, gave to the spectator the idea of a city protracted ad injiiiitum." (A picture of what London is at the present day.) 18 INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS TO THE With respect to the walls built by the Emperor Aurelian in the decline of the empire, I may be brief; it appears that emperor, perceiving by the prodigious increase of the city, that the old walls of Servius were useless as a defence, and that it was necessary to pro- tect the inhabitants from hostile invasion, determined to construct a new wall in a circuit large enough to comprehend the greater part of the town which was then inhabited. The traveller may refer to the map already described, and to the map in this book, trace the walls of the emperor, and then ride round them with advantage. This enclosure, repaired however in various times, is that which surrounds modem Rome this side the Tiber. These walls, so built, may, in extent, be limited to ten miles, or 50,000 feet, excluding the works intro- duced to serve as part thereof. They were constructed partly of brick, while the walls of Tullius were of square stone. Many ancient monuments and fabrics were used to make, as they stood, part of these new walls, such as one side of the Pretorian Barrack ; arches of the Clau- dian Aqueduct, and of the Marcian, the amphitheatre called Castrense, intended for exercising the soldiers ; the Sepulchre of Caius Cestius, and many others, which being perfectly visible to the eye at the present day give to these venerable walls a most singular appearance and a peculiar interest. Our author remarks, he could not better, in his judg- ment, conclude his preliminary notices on the topogra- phy of the ancient city than by transcribing that which TOPOGRAPHY OF ANCIENT ROME BY CANINA. 19 Strabo wrote when he visited Rome in those prosperous times which she enjoyed during the early years of the Imperial government. Strabo observes : " Rome, built on the banks of the Tiber, is the first city you meet as you advance inland from Ostia.* Its situation was not from choice, however, but from necessity ; and those who increased the buildings had not the liberty of selecting a better site, but were constrained to adapt their improve- ments to the ground. Wherefore the early Romans having built on the Capitoline, Palatine, and Quirinal, left the ap- proach to the Capitoline so easy, that when Titus Tatius advanced to revenge the rape of the Sabines, he took it at the first assault ; and Ancus Martins having found the Celian and Aventine, Avith the even ground lying between, divided not only from each other, but from all the buildings originally raised on them respectively, united and secured them with walls ; afterwards he conceived that it might not be prudent to leave outside the enclosure these hills thus fortified, yet had not power to continue the wall to the Quirinal. " Servius supplied this defect, and completing the wall, added the Esquiline and the Viminal ; however, an enemy having still an easy access, he excavated a deep fosse, and raised a bank six stadii in length, building on its summit inside the ditch a wall with towers, which included the space lying between the Porta CoUina and the Porta Esqui- lina : in the centre of the bank there was a third gate called the Viminal, of the same name as the hill on which it stood. In this manner were disposed the fortifications round the city, which was without any other defence. " It seems to me (Strabo), the early Romans resolved, as well for themselves as their posterity, that they should secure safety and abundance, not so much by tlieir fortifications, as by their tn-ms and their valour, and they conceived that the walls ouglit not to defend the men, but the men the walls. * The translation is from the Itahan of Canina. [W.] 20 INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS TO THE " There being, however, a large and fertile region round Rome, at first occupied by strangers ; and the territory of the Romans being open to attack, they could little hope to obtain prosperity by means of their position merely ; but having by their courage and exertions mastered the surround- ing country, they very soon perceived many advantages arise which surpassed all those of situation. Thus, the city grown to so great a size, was still supplied amply with pro- visions, with wood, with stone for building ; dwellings fell, were burned, or remodelled such remodelling being a volun- tary transformation, as much so as when edifices are pulled down to be reconstructed, or to be changed in their form from one fashion into another, according to the taste of the architect. For these improvements an extraordinary abund- ance of metals and of timber was provided, and there were many rivers by which to convey these materials. " The first river is the Anio, which, descending from Alba, a Latin city, near the country of the Marsi, runs through the plains till it joins the Tiber ; then the Naro and the Tanais, which passing through Umbria, pour into the Tiber; and the Cleanis, which flows through Tuscany and the country of Clusium. " In our days Caesar Augustus has used great diligence to remedy the evils of the city ; he established bands of freedmen to give succour to the citizens in conflagrations ; and in order to lessen the number of accidents, reduced any great elevations upon the roofs of new edifices, and in- terdicted likewise the raising of any edifices along the public streets to a greater height than sixty feet. " These wise arrangements would have availed little, if the city had not been plentifully supplied with metals, timber, and facilities for their carriage. Such advantages Rome derived from the excellence of the country, to which the Romans added whatever by industry and art they could obtain. The Greeks were reputed skilful in beau- tiful architecture, the Romans, on the other hand, studied TOPOGRAPHY F ANCIENT ROME BY CANINA. 21 things by the Greeks little regarded, such as the paving of streets and of the roads, construction of aqueducts and sewers to discharge the filth of the city into the Tiber. They also made smooth the roads through their territory, cutting away hills, filling up valleys so that waggons might pass with ease can-ying the merchandise of their shipping, and they arched their cloaca with stone, so that a cart-load of hay could pass through it. And such was the abundance of water con- ducted by the aqueducts, that rivers seemed to scour the city and the sewers, and few were the private houses which had not a supply from pipes, reservoirs, or abundant foun- tains ; to which matters Marcus Agrippa applied the utmost diligence, having with much labour and taste adorned the city and rendered it more beautiful and splendid ; for true it is, the old Romans were so intent on things of greater consequence, that they cared little for decorating their capi- tal. But their successors, and those principally of this our day, not only have not been negligent in such matters, but have filled the city with many most majestic ornaments. Since Pompey, the deified Cajsar, Augustus, his children, friends, wife, and sister, employed their undivided care and the money at their disposal on these public works. Of this the Campus Martius is a proof, as this spot, in addition to the pleasantness which the soil naturally affords, is crowded with artificial splendours ; because its admirable size affords ample space to the immense multitude which flock there to exercise in the sports of the course, of the race, of riding, of the ball, of the circus, and in wrestling. The buildings which surround it, the verdure which perpetually covers it, and the hills which crown it in the part opposite the river, present a spectacle from which the stranger can with diffi- culty tear himself away. " Nigh to this Campus Martius is another beautiful field, surrounded by porticoes, sacred woods, three tlieatres, an amphitheatre, and sumptuous temples, the one so joined to the other, that it might be supposed an addition to 22 INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS TO THE the city itself. Therefore, considering such a place sacred, they raised there the sepulchres of illustrious men and women, amongst which the most celebrated is that called Mausoleum, built on a lofty base of white stone nigh the bank of the river, and wholly shaded to its summit by trees ever green. Above is the statue of Csesar Augustus, made of bronze, and underneath are the sepulchres of himself, his relatives, and servants ; in the lower part there is an exten- sive grove, through which are walks astonishingly beautiful. There stands in the midst of the Campus a space enclosed in which Augustus was burned after his death, and this also is of white stone surrounded by a railing of iron, with many poplar trees within. If the stranger, then, entering within the ancient forum, wishes to consider the harmony of one building with the other, the porticoes with the temples, and to contemplate the Capitol with the edifices raised thereon, as also those situate on the Palatine and in the portico of Li via, he might well forget all things without." Such was Rome, shortly after the cleatli of Augustus, when visited by Strabo ; in subsequent periods it became adorned with buildings more vast and magnificent still, Avhich rendered it superior to every other city subject to the Roman dominion, in the world. From what has been said, observes Canina, we may conclude that Rome was originally built on tlie Palatine Hill, and thence extended to the Capitolinc, Quirinal, Celan, Avcntine, Esquiline, and Viminal, occupying also a large tract of the level ground lying along the Tiber, to- Avards the north, in which was the celebrated Campus Mar- tius. The city, by the increase of its population, from the four divisionsof Servius,in the reign of Augustus, reached to fourteen divisions. These regions were by the same emperor divided into streets, the respective positions of TOPOGRAPHY OF ANCIENT ROME BY CANINA. 23 which it is impossible now to discover. As well the regions as the streets had inspectors appointed to pre- serve good order, called curatori, denunciator i, and vici- tnagtstri, as specified in the catalogues of the Regionaries. The number of fourteen regions was preserved down to the last days of the empire, after the city had been surrounded by a new wall. These were severally named either from their localities or from some edifice which they contained : 1st. Porta Capena ; Snd. Cclimon- tana ; 3rd. Isis and Serapis ; 4th. Temple of Peace ; 5th. Esquilinc ; 6th. Alta Semita ; 7th. Via Lata ; 8th. Foro Romano; 9th. Circo Flamino ; 10th. Pa- latium ; 11th. Circo Massimo; 12th. Piscina Publica ; 13th. Aventino ; 14th. Transtiberina. Now, beginning from the first, situate in the southern part of the city, we shall note the things in it most worthy attention according to the Catalogue of the Re- gionaries. Then in the same manner the other regions will be successively explored, warning the reader that in this topographical exposition will be demonstrated only the position of those buildings of which undoubted relics remain, or of which certain descriptions supply the want. Tims the preliminary discourse of Canina ends. I would add, in considering the improvement of the citv under Autjustus, wc must not for^fct the chanfjes clTccted in the time of Nero. Niebuhr writes : " Tacitus does not consider it a well attested fact that Nero set fire to the City of Rome, and it may, indeed, have been no more than a report ; the fact of his looking at the calamity, and singing at the same time, merely shews his madness, but does not prove that he was the author of the 24 INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS TO THE fire. This conflagration, which raged for six days and seven nights, is an important event in the history of Rome, for after this catastrophe, the city assumed an aspect totally different from what it had worn before, and the new streets which were now built, were made straight, and took different directions from the old ones. The greater part of the city was reduced to a heap of ashes, or at least very much damaged. The magnificent ancient monuments, works of art, and libraries perished in the flames. After the fire was over, Nero, with his usual unbounded extravagance, began restoring the city ; he built his golden palace, and in the midst of the city, on the site now occupied by the Colosseum, he had a large lake dug out for the purpose of exhibiting naumackice." We have thus seen how Rome began, grew, and reached the utmost splendour and magnificence. Let us now examine, somewhat in detail, and sec what each region presents worthy of observation. The visitor and the scholar may be equally interested in the accounts given of places famed in classic story. Our author having prefixed the contents of this re- gion as given in the " Catalogue of Publius Vittor," of *' Sextus Rufus," and in the " Notices of the Em- pire," proceeds to describe the limits of this first region as, according to Rufus, of the circumference of 13,223 feet, according to Victor as 12,220 feet, whence it is deduced that from the place where stood the ancient gate Capena, which by common consent is fixed to liave been close to the villa formerly called Mattci, before reaching the baths of Caracalla, this region could not have been extended beyond the Porta Appia, or that of S. Scbastiano. It seems, also, this region was situated entirely outside the ancient limit of the wall of Servius, but comprehended within that of Aurelian. PORTA CAPENA. 25 REGION I. PORTA CAPENA * 1. Fountain and Temple of Mercury. 2. Temple of Honour and Virtue. 3. Fountain and Temple of the Muses. 4. Mutatorium of Caesar. 5. Temple of Mars. 6. Sepulchre of the Scipios. 7. Temple of the Tempest. 8. Sepulclire of the Furian and Manilian families. 9. Sepulchre of the house- hold of Augustus, near to the Porta Latina. 10. Common Sepulchre. 11. Arch of Drusus. The River Almo. The limits of this first region, called Porta Capena from the gate of this name situated within the walls of Servius, are very uncertain. In some topographies they are prolonged to the spot called the Caffarella, at the distance of about two miles from the present gate of the city, in order to include some buildings in that vicinity. But the perimeter of this region being calculated by Rufus at 13,223 feet, by Victor and the " Notitia of the Empire" at only 12,220, it may be inferred from the site of the ancient Capena gate, which by common * " Porta Capena," called so from Capena, an old city of Italy, to wliich tlic way led through this gate. It is sometimes called Appia, from Appius the censor, and Fontinulis, from the aque- ducts which wore raised over it ; whence Juvenal calls it madida CapenUj and Martial, Capena grandi porta qua pluit gutta. In numhering the table of contents, I have followed the arrange- ment of the hook, whicli is slightly inverted by the author in the margin of his map, the Arch of Drusus being numbered ix, whereas in the book it is properly xi. W. C 26 REGION I. consent is placed under the villa formerly called " Mat- tei," before arriving at the thcrmjc of Antoninus that this region could not extend further than the Appian or St. Sebastian gate. It appears, also, that this region was altogether situated beyond the ancient enclosure of the walls of Servius, though within that of Aurclian, occupying in the plain the space situated between the spot where the ancient Porta Capena and the Porta Appia stood, with a part of the two hills rising on the side of this locality beyond the Antonine thermae. Porta Capena. The site of the Porta Capena, which gave its name to this region, was determined by the discovery made in the seventeenth century, a little beyond the Porta Appia, of the miliary column denot- ing the first mile, which is now preserved in the Capitol ; since, from the spot indicated, (where, according to the statements of Fabretti, Ficoroni, Valesio, and Revillas, the said miliary column was found,) corresponding to about 500 palms beyond the Appian, (now the S. Se- bastian gate), applying backwards the measure of an ancient mile, it refers precisely to the spot where the tops of the Celian and Aventine hills most nearly approximate, between the upper garden of S. Gregorio and the church of Santa Balbina, where the walls of Servius must have parted from the two said nearest heights to reunite in the valley on the sides of the Porta Capena, where the celebrated Appian way commenced, from which, after a short space, the Latin way branched off. According to an explanation given by an ancient scholiast of Juvenal, relative to what the poet wrote in the third satire, it is ascertained that the PORTA CAPENA. 27 name of this gate was derived from the temple and wood of the Camenae, which were near it. We learn like- wise from Juvenal, that the Acqua Appia passed over the gate and rendered it damp. From what Cicero wrote in his first letter to Atticus, it is ascertained that around this Porta Capena there were several temples, the steps of which could hold many persons. Fountain and Temple of Mercury. One of the principal edifices situated near the Capena gate must have been the one dedicated to Mercury, which is re- gistered in this region bv Rufus and Victor, and was probably near the celebrated spring of the Mercury water of which Ovid, amongst other ancient writers, shewed the vicinity to this gate.* In some excavations lately made between the ruins of an ancient building existing in the vineyard of the Camaldoline monks of S. Gregorio, the spring of this water has been retraced, which circumstance has proved that the temple must have been near this spot. In fact, it was here that Piranesi found the remains of a double archway, which arc supposed to have belonged to the Capena gate, near which was the Mercury water ; and, if these arches were not actually those of the gate itself, ^vhich must have stood more towards the present * Est ju|ua ]Mcrcuiii porta; vicina Capeiuc : Si Juvat cxpcrtis credere, nuincn liabet. Hue veuit incincttis tunicam mercator ; et iinia Tunis suffusa, (plain ferat, liaurit aquiiin. Ovid. FurU, v. (JTS-G. Aqua Mcrcurii. Hoc solum tcstinionio jirohant viri dccti extra portaiu Capeiiaiii Via Ap])ia acpiain I'uisse ita iiuncupatain : qua poj)ulus, qui iiegotio et (piastui operam dabat, lustra! i s(jlitus. Neap. W. c 2 28 REGION I. road leading to tlic Porta S. Scbastiano, it sccnis, at least, that they formed part of the aqueduct of the Marcian and Appian waters ; as, according to Fron- tinus, tlie aqueduct of tlie former of these streams ter- minated upon the Capena gate, and that of the latter passed in its vicinity; and being, for this reason, damp, it was called by the ancients the Wet gate. Some remains of the aqueduct of the Appian water, in its continuation, were found at the base of the adjoining Celian hill. Thus, the ruins found where the spring of the Mercury water was discovered, must have be- longed either to the fountain itself or to some enclosure of the temple. Amongst the fragments of the Capito- line plan there exists one marked lxiv, on which is carved a kind of round altar, together with a few letters which are interpreted as having denoted the area of Mercury, and, as a similar area with an altar is marked by Rufus in this region, it may be supposed tliat this probably formed a piazza before the temple, in the middle of which stood the altar just described. Temples of Honour and Virtue. These temples also, were near the Porta Capena, and, in the Notitioe of the Empire, are mentioned before any other edifice, as being situated at this spot. Their vicinity is proved by Livy in speaking of the Syracusan spoils brought to Rome by Marcellus; and the same writer assures us that one temple only had been vowed by Marcellus in the Gallic war to these divinities, but that the priests had prevented its dedication, maintaining that a single cella could not be consecrated to two different gods, for which reason another temple was subsequently added PORTA CAPENA. 29 to Virtue, and built in a short time.* This addition is proved, by the fourteenth letter of Symmacus, to have been made by means of another " cella,'''' placed in a way to render the temple double, like that of Venus at Rome built by Hadrian. But this temple, dedicated to Honour and Virtue, was the identical one frequently mentioned by Vitruvius, and built in a good style of architecture by Caius Mutius, and must have had two " ce//<,'" called by him Marcellianse, from the name of the founder, joined to each other, and enclosed by a portico in imitation of the round temples ; but this portico did not extend to the back part, as is stated by that writer. Fountain and Temple of the Muses. From the letter of Symmacus cited above, it is known that near the temples of Honour and Virtue was the sacred spring of the Camenaj, which, together with the celebrated cave of Egerla, are particularly proved by the well known verses of Juvenal, in the third satire, to have been at a short distance from the Porta Capena. Thus, it may be supposed to have been situated in the valley com- mencing opposite to the Antonine Thermae, near S. Sisto, and not in that named the CafFarella, which is at a great distance from the spot where the Porta Capena * " Marcellum aliro atque alia' objcctoe animo religioncs tone- bant : in quibus, quod, quum bello Gallico ad Clastidium fcdem Honori ct Virtuti vovissct, dcdicatio ejus a pontilicibus impe- dicbatur : quod negabant, unam cellam duobus reete dedicari : quia, si de ccelo tacta, aut prodigii aliquid in ca factum csset, difficilis procuratiu forct ; quod, utri Deo res divina fieret, seiri non pojssct. Ncque cnim duobus, nisi certis, Deis rite una liostia fieri, ita addita Virtutis aedcs adproperato opcre : neque tanien ab ipso a^des eoe dcdicatae sunt." Livy, xxvii. 25. W. 30 REGION I. Stood, as stated by sundry topographers. Even the temple of the Camcnce, mentioned by Victor and the Notitia, appears to have been situated on this spot, and perhaps where the church of S. Sisto now stands. The sacred wood of the Camenaj, mentioned in the verses of Juvenal, was evidently situated near the temple and at the foot of the neighbouring hill, in wliich seems to have existed the grotto of Egeria,* which has given rise to so much discussion. * Tlic situation of the so celebrated wood of the Camcnse, with the valley and cave of Mgeria, is determined by the well-known verses of Juvenal : " Sed duni tota domus rhedsi componitur una, Substitit ad veteres arcus, madidainque Capenam ; Hie, ubi nocturnae Numa constituebat amicse. Nunc sacri fontis nemus, et delubra locantur . Judseis, quorum cophinus, fcenumque supellex. Omnis enim populo mercedem pcndere jussa est Arbor, et ejeetis mendicat sylva Camcenis. In vallem Mgcnx descendimus, et speluncas Dissimiles veris. Quanto praestantius esset Numen aqufc, viridi si margine clauderet undas Herba, nee ingenuum violarent marmora to])hum ? " Juvenal, iii. 10, &c. As Juvenal and his friend Umbritius waited in the valley of Egeria until the waggon laden with his furniture should overtake him, and were there informed that the horses had come up (as ap- pears from the following verses), it is concluded that the valley with the cave of Egeria were not far removed from the Appian way, which issued from the Porta Capena : " His alias poteram, et plurcs subnectcre eausas : Sed jumenta vocant, et sol inelinat : cuudeni est-" The compiler of Murray's " Hand-book on Rome," p. 32o, has placed the fountain of ^lilgeria in the valley called Caffarella, which fountain, according to classical autJKjrity and modern topo- graphers, is in a totally different situation. W. PORTA CAPENA. 31 Mutatorium of Caesar. In a fragment of the Capi- toline map, lvi., there is an indication of the Muta- torium of Csesar, noted here by the Regionaries ; and as the Area Radicaria, situated in the twelfth region, is marked on the same fragment, and as there is no position more fit to apply what is represented on the fragment, on the limit of the two regions, than that situated between the Porta Capena and S. Sisto where the ancient Via Appia passed, and a road being also traced on the said fragment, it may be decided that the Mutatorium of Csesar stood at a short distance from the ancient Via Appia, towards the above-named building of S. Sisto. What this Mutatorium was, is not clearly known, and its shape is not well defined by the frag- ment. Temple of Mars. Rufus and Victor, prior to any other edifice, notice in this region the Temple of Mars, which is pointed out by Scrvius (in the notes on the first book of the yEneid), in the Via Appia without the city, and near the Porta Capena, and that it was in sight of this gate is proved by the verses of Ovid;* and, as out of the St. Sebastian gate, on the right, in * " Lux cadem ^Nlarti festa est : quern prospicit extra Appositum Tect(e ' porta Capena vine." Ovid, Fusti, vi. 191. So in Livy we read, " Cum omncs extra porlum Copenum ud Murtis icdem convenire arniatos juniores jussisset." Lib. vii. -I'i, ' Tect(E. Caninalias given tliis Recta, others Dtxtra ; I have given tlie above reading on the authority of tlie best versions. Commentators find a difficulty in explaining the expression Teitd zicc. Donatus supposes it may have been " arched over, or had porticoes along it ; " Schrcvelius, " liipiJe atruta, or paved." W. c 4 32 REGION I. the Naro vineyard, an ancient inscription has been found, relating to a levelling made on the hill of Mars,* it maybe concluded that the temple was erected on that site, further towards the Porta Capena, and consequently on that part of the hill which is above S. Ccsareo, where a prominence stretching out a little towards the Via Appia may still be seen. On this spot, before the erection of the Antonine Thermse, the temple was more open to the view of the Porta Capena. Tomb of the Scipios. From the Via Appia, which passed through the ancient Capena gate, the Latin way branched off at a short distance, and to it a distinct gate conducted from the walls of Aurelian. Along the part of the Via Appia which, after this branching off, extended to the gate known by that name, and exactly in the Sassi vineyard, in the latter years of the last century, the interesting discovery was made of the tomb * An inscription was found relating to the lowering of the liill of Mars, wliich stood in its place along the Via Appia down to the eighth century, and has been transported to the Vatican Museum : it is written in the following terms : SENATUS rorvi,usQUE nO.MANL'S CLIVOM MAltTIS PECUNIA . I'VBLICA IN . PLANITIAM UEniGENDUM CURAVIT. Another inscription was found, r(-ferre(I to by Grutcro, relating to this same hill of Mars, and is as follows : CLIVUM . MAltTIS . TEC . I IHLirA . . . IN . PLANICIETES llEDKGUHL" NT . . . S. P. Q. P.. PORTA CAPENA. 33 belonging to the celebrated family of the Scipios. It was found cut in the tufo, the front adorned in a style of architecture agreeing with the early style peculiar to the Romans, which nearly approached Greek art. This was one of the most celebrated tombs that existed out of the Capcna gate, as expressly declared by Cicero, in his first book of the Tusculana, wherein he enumerates this tomb of the Scipios with that of Calatinus, of the Servilii, and of the Metelli ; and we learn from Livy, that on its exterior were placed the statues of Publius and Lucius Scipio, together with that of the poet Quintus Ennius. The inscription found in this tomb was transferred to the Vatican Museum, and on the monument were substituted copies, to preserve the remembrance of it. Before the entrance to the sepulchre traces of an ancient road were found, which was supposed to have served as a communication be- tween the Appian and Latin ways. Temple of the Tempest.* Among the inscriptions found in the tomb above described, was one of L. Cor- nelius Scipio, the son of Barbatus, which served to verify the antiquity of another inscription of this same Scipio, the conqueror of Corsica and of the town of * The inscription of Lucius Cornelius Scipio that names tlie Temple of the Tempest, and whicli is referred to by the topo- graphers, is also interesting from the manner in which it was en- graved. IIONC . OINO . PLOIRVME . CONSENTIONT . U . . . DVONOllO . OPTVMO . FVISE . VIUO LVCIOM . SCIPIONE . FILIOS . BAUBATI CONSOL . CENSOR . AIDILIS . IIIC . FVKT . A . . . . IIAA' . CKI'IT . COllSICA . ALERIAyVE . VRHE DEDET TE.MI'ESTATIBVS . AIDE . MEKETO, 34 REGION I. Aleria (discovered before in the same place), relating to the building of that Temple of the Tempest noted by Rufus and Victor in this region. From that in- scription, it may be inferred that the same temple was situated at a short distance from the place where the inscription was found. Tombs of the Furian and Manilian Families. In the Moroni vineyard, nearly facing the tombs of the Scipios, two other ancient sepulchres were found, which were ascertained by their inscriptions to have belonged, one to the Furian, the second to the Manilian family. Remains of other tombs were brought to light along the same road, before arriving at the St. Sebastian gate, but it has not been discovered to whom they belonged. Tomb near the Porta Latina. In the upper part of the Codini vineyard, and near the Latin gate, another tomb in good preservation was lately found, which from the very ancient inscriptions it bears, and its style of architecture, may be recognized as having been raised at the time when Rome was still under the republican form of government, or, at the most, in the first years of the Empire ; one of the inscriptions Avhich is still legible, being that of a female attendant of the daughter of Augustus. This sepulchre is very interesting, from its being entire as well as on account of its form, which was, however disfigured, in subsequent times, by the addition of other buildings. Near the tomb are ruins of various edifices, which, from the rare marbles found in them, must have been richly adorned and raised in this fine position in the time of the emperors. In tlie vicinity of the same sepulchre, traces PORTA CAPENA. 35 have been found of an ancient way, which necessarily communicated with the Appian, and also evidently with the one found near the Scipios"* tomb. Common sepulchre. A few months ago, another tomb disposed in the form of a columbarium, was found in the Codini vineyard, at a short distance from that of the Scipios, and, by order of the Camerlengo department, it was covered over with a solid structure, for its better preservation and inspection by the ama- teurs of antiquities. It contains several sepulchral inscriptions, from which (as they belonged to different persons) it is ascertained, that the sepulchre was built by some contractor who let out narrow spaces wherein to deposit the ashes of persons who had not, or could not procure a private tomb* Near this common sepulchre, have been discovered the ruins of other similar colom- barti, but much disfigured by the excavations made in past times. In raising the new enclosure around the arch of Drusus, the remains of other tombs have been found that lined the Via Appia, but nothing has appeared to indicate to whom they belonged : these remains are visible on the side of the same arch. From all these discoveries lately made on the little * Concerning tlic sepulchre near tlie Porta Latina, and tlio excavations made in tlie present year, tlie Cavaliere Canipana lias lately written a learned dissertation. lie was tiie discoverer of tiieso monuments, and is entrusted with their preservation. A notice is given in " Italy in the Nineteenth Century," expla- natory of the ])resent np])earanee of these Roman sepulchres, and of the discdveries of the aecomjilished antiijuary whose name lias been mentioned A\'. 36 REGION I. hill that rises between the Appian and the Latin ways, and enclosed within the walls of Aurelian,it is ascertained that, in the beginning of the Empire, and in the latter years of the Republic especially, it was converted into a common cemetery. This locality has furnished nu- merous remains of various tombs, which tombs on the right extended to the Via Latina, on the left to the Via Appia, roads that diverged at a short distance from the Capena gate as already explained. Arch of Drusus. Before arriving at the Porta Appia, now S. Sebastiani, there is an ancient arch in a great part preserved, and generally supposed to be the one which, according to Suetonius, was raised by the Senate to Drusus on the Appian Way, and which had been adorned with sculptures representing trophies. As amongst the different streets of this region the Drusian is marked, it may be presumed that the street was near this arch. There are visible traces on this monument of an aqueduct made at a period subsequent to the con- struction of the arch, evidently to convey the water to the Antonine thermae, as may be inferred from the continuation of the same aqueduct stretching towards the hill. Visible traces of this aqueduct have been lately found on the sides of the arch. This aqueduct conveyed, perhaps, also the water to the thermaj of Commodus and Severus, wliich are marked in this region by Rufus, Victor, and the Notitioc, and which must have been hereabouts ; but nothing remains to enable us to fix their real position. In the Casali vineyard, near this arch, were found and destroyed the pilasters that sup- ported the arclies of the continuation of this aqueduct. PORTA CAPENA. 87 The River Almo. At a short distance from the Porta Appia (now St. Sebastian) there is a small stream which rises towards the commencement of the CafFarella valley, and falls into the Tiber near the first mile of the Via Ostiensis. It is supposed to be the Almo, marked in this region in the catalogues of the Regionaries. Its ancient course probably approached a little nearer to the city, so that it might have formed part of this same region, according to the limits indi- cated above. This little stream was celebrated amongst the ancients, as its waters served to wash the image and the utensils belonging to the worship of the goddess Cybele.* The celebrated Via Appia, which passed through the Appian gate, Avas adorned with many splendid tombs, several of which remains still exist, and particularly of the celebrated sepulchre of Cicilia Metella. Near this tomb there also exists, in a great part preserved, the Circus commonly called that of Caracalla ; but from some inscriptions lately found, it is ascertained to have been more probably built, or in a great part restored by Romulus the son of Maxentius. * "Est locus, in Tibcrin qua lubricus influit Almo, Et noinen niagno perdit ab anine minor. Illic purpurea canus cum vcste saccrdos Almonis Doininam sacracjue lavit aquis." Ovid., Fusti, iv. 337. " Capcua grandi porta qua pluit gutta, Phrygio'que jNIatris Almo qua la vat fLTrum," (fee. ^Iaktial, iii. 47. It is j^lain from tlio dominam .lacraqite lavit and fjud lural J'erriiDi, tliat it was tlic custom to wasli tlie image of the coddoss and licr chariot, tlie sacred vessels and sacrificing knife (icrrum), everv year in the Almo. \V. 38 REGION II. REGION II. CELIMONTANA. 1. Temple of Claudius. 2. Arch of Dolabclla and Silanus. 3. Quarters of Foreign Soldiers, 4. Quarters of tlie Albani. 5. The Great Market. 6. House of Vitellius. 7. Campus Mar- tius. 8. House of Marcus Aurelius. 9. House of Laterani. 10. Fifth Cohort of the Watch. 11. The little Celian and Chapel of Diana. 12. Public Baths. 13. House of Philip. 14. Campus Fontinalis. Neronian Arches (not in Map), The circumference of the Celimontana region, so called from the Celian hill on which it was situated, is determined by the form of the hill itself, as its circuit amounts to about the 12 or 13,200 feet assigned to it by the Regionaries. It excludes, however, the other hill, situated towards the Porta Latina, which it is thought formed part of the antecedent region and is considered by various topographers as the little Celian of the ancients ; nor can one include in this region the plain lying towards the Esquiline, in which Nardini was of opinion that the ancient suburra had Ijcen situated. Temple of Claudius. The position of this temple of Claudius, which, as related by Suetonius, had been raised by Vespasian on the ruins of the one commenced by Agrippina, and destroyed by Nero,* is designated by * ' Fecit et nova oj)cra, templum I'acis Foro proximum : CELIMONTANA. 89 Frontinus, who says, that the Neronian arches of the "Acqua Claudia" followed from the " Speranza Vec- chia" the course of the Celian hill, and terminated pre- cisely near this temple. Now, as on the Celian, there are many remains of the arches that sustained this aque- duct ; and as it is known that they ended in the upper part of the garden joining the convent of S. Giovanni e Paolo, it is certain that here stood the temple of Clau- dius. In fact, in this locality there are many remains indicating that it was surrounded by a large building, destined to sundry uses. According to what is related by Suetonius, it appears that it may be decided that, in the middle part of this position, the first temple was placed by Agrippina, and that Nero, in raising several buildings that bordered on his lake, situated where the Flavian amphitheatre was raised afterwards, or applying this spot to the use of some nymphoeum or other fine edifice, to receive and to shew off the water he intro- duced, destroyed what had been begun by Agrippina. It is also probable that Vespasian, who availed himself occasionally of the places already occupied by the Ne- ronian buildings to situate his own edifices, rebuilt here the Temple of Claudius, which the Rcgionaries have marked down. In this fine situation the temple, having evidently been surrounded by a handsome enclosure, must have presented a majestic aspect, and was perhaps one of the largest buildings in Rome. Along the lower part of this locality, turned towards the Palatine, it is (liviquc Cluudii in Ccolio niontc, ca'ptuni quidoin nb Agrippina, sod a Ncronc prope fuiulitus ilcstructum." Suetonius in Vts- pasinno, ix. 40 REGION II. seen by the remains tliat exist under the convent of S. Giovanni e Paolo, that two rows of arches had been built here, in which it has been discovered that an enclosure had been made to contain the wild beasts destined for the games exhibited in the neighbouring amphitheatre, particularly in the time of Domitian. In the middle of the same side, in the ruins detached from the remaining edifice, it is seen that large steps had been made which descended from the upper story into the valley placed between the Celian and the Palatine, as still more visibly are found similar steps made in the middle of the side turned towards the Flavian amphi- theatre. On this side the Claudian waters evidently issued ; and, after producing a fine effect here, they went first to increase the pond or lake of Nero, and subse- quently served for the use of the amphitheatre erected on the same spot. On the other side of this position, which is turned towards the east, are large remnants of semicircular and quadrangular niches, disposed alter- nately, that certainly served as an ornament to the sta- dium which is supposed to have been made in the little valley underneath, as is proved by the form the place preserves, and the remains of a goal found in it, with many other antique objects. On the southern part also of this same locality, where the arches of the Neronian aqueduct terminated, it appears to me that it may very properly be supposed that there was built what is en- graved in fragment, lvh of the Capitolinc map, on which is indicated an aqueduct sustained by arches, with large walls in the middle, which must have formed the base of a fine fa^'ade, raised to shew to advantage the CELIMONTANA. 41 issue of the waters as suitable to the above-named mag- nificent aqueduct. This fragment could never have represented the septizonium of Severus, as commonly believed, since it agrees neither with the form of what is there represented, nor with the manner in which the large building is united with the aqueduct above de- scribed. Arch of Dolahella and Silanus. The modern way of S. Stefano Rotondo seems to preserve the same direction as an ancient way, united with the ascent called that of Scaurus. This way was so called from having been made by Scaurus, (many other ancient ways being called from the name of their restorer,) and not because his house was situated on it as has been believed by some writers, since the house of Scaurus was on the Palatine. The continuation of the said ancient way is indicated by the direction of the Neronian aqueduct above described. Across this way, near the entrance to the villa, formerly Mattel, there exists an ancient arch which, it is seen by the inscription engraved on its front, had been built under the consulate of P. Cornelius Dolabella and C. Junius Silanus, a priest of Mars ; which consulate, corrcs])onding to the year 746 of Rome, shews that the arch itself was raised before the construction of the above-named aqueduct. It is over this arch that Nero directed his aqueduct, as is clearly seen by its particular construction, and from the pedestals of the arches which on both sides continued to support it. Neroniau Arches. The entire Celimontana region nearly was traversed by the above-named Xeronian arches, which supported the atjueduct that conveyed a ])art of the 42 REGION II. " Acqua Claudia" from the spot named the " Speranza Vecchia'' till near the Temple of Claudius just described, as it is declared by Frontinus. These arches stretch from the arch of Silanus and Dolabclla towards the La- teran basilica, where an arch is said to have existed in times not very remote, before the hospital of S. Giovanni, on wliicli an inscription existed, stating that Lucius Septimius Scverus, and Marcus Aurelius Antoninus, his son, had restored the Celimontana arches that were in many places ruined. The quarters of Foreign Soldiers. Before reaching the above described arch of Silanus and Dolabella, the aqueduct, makes a turn so as to leave a large space in front, whence it may be presumed that this arch was originally built to adorn the entrance of some enclosure of a large building, and perhaps of the foreign quarters, which are indicated here by the Regionaries, since in the Casali vineyard, situated here, several ancient inscriptions have been found relating to these quarters. And, from another inscription foundjtherc near the piazza S. Maria della Navicella,* it is known that there existed here a * Amongst the diiFcrent inscriptions found in this locality, and belonging to the quarters of the foreign soldiers, there exists one now standing in the Collegio Romano, and whicli is very interest- ing : GENIO . SANCTO. CASTHOUV.M PEllEGHINOUVM CVH . AI.KXANDER CANALICLAUIVft QVOD . rEHEGl'.E CONSTITVTVS . VOVIT. CELIMONTANA. 43 temple of " Returning Jove," (" Giove Reduce"") de- corated by Domitius Bassus, and erected by the same foreign soldiers. It is further known, by the memoirs ofSante Bartoli, that in these environs there were found, in the times of Clement X, many ancient remains of buildings known to have belonged to these quarters, with other ruins of fine edifices with halls, court-yards, porticoes, and precious columns. From these indica- tions it may be inferred that the quarters of the foreigners extended from the arch of Silanus and Dolabella towards the site of the Neronian aqueduct ; and that the temple of " Returning Jove" was in the middle towards the Piazza della Navicella, where the inscription was found that related to it. Quarters of the Alhani. In the upper part of the gardens belonging to the monastery of S. Gregorio, there AEDIL . CASTRORVM VOTVM , LIBENS . SOLVIT. The followinnf inscriptions were found near the church of S. Maria, in Dominica : the first was thus written : VOTIS VOTIS X . ANNALIB . PRO . SALVTE . ET . REDITU . D. N. IMP. CAESAKIS XX. ANNALIB. FELICITER PIO . FELICI . FELICITER. INVICTO . AVG. DOMITIVS . BASSVS . FR. AGENS VICE. PRINCIPIS.PEREGRINORUM.TEMPLUM.IOVIS. REDUCIS.C. P.ONNI CVLTV . DE . SVO . EXORAVIT. The second simply said GOCCEIVS PATRVINVS PRINC PEREGRI NORVM. 44 REGION II. remain traces of a long wall, of reticular construction, which unites with other remains of walls situated under the villa, formerly Mattci, towards thcAventine; being of the same construction, it may be presumed they be- longed to the same building. The appearance of these ruins accords, in a certain degree, with what is engraved in a fragment of the ancient Capitoline map xiv, re- presenting a large edifice with a court in the middle, and surrounded by porticoes. This edifice, placed in this situation, seems certainly to have been adapted to the Alban quarters which arc assigned to this spot by the Regionaries. To one side of this edifice are united the ancient remains of a kind of portico, with shops placed along the ascent of Scaurus ; and on a part of these remains arches were built in later times to sustain the western side of the church of S. Giovanni e Paolo. Fifth Cohort of the Watch. From the discovery made in the year 1820, within the Mattel Villa, near the entrance to the right of the church S. Maria in Dominica, of two inscriptions, one of which was en- graved on the pedestal of a statue, dedicated to the Emperor Marcus Aurelius Antoninus by the fifth cohort of the watch,* it is ascertained that this place was the * The inscription cut on tlic above-mentioned pedestal is ex- pressed in the following manner: IMP . OAKS . M . AVRELLIO . ANTONINO . I'lO . FELiri . AVG. TRIG. POT. XIII. IMP. II. CO.S. III. PRO. COS'. IMP. CAES. L. 8EPTIMI . SEVERI PIL . PFUTINACIS . AVr, . FILIO DEVOTA . NV.MIM . ET . MAIESTATI . EIVS. CELIMONTANA. 45 station of the above-named cohort, as is registered in the catalogues of the Regionaries. There were seven cohorts of the watch stationed in Rome, one of which served for every two regions, as is expressly stated by the Jurisconsult Paulus,* and they were distributed according to the catalogue of Victor, which is verified still more in the following manner : The fifth cohort in the Celimontana region the second cohort in the fifth or Esquiline region the third cohort in the Alta Seniita or sixth region the first cohort in the seventh or Via Lata region the sixth cohort in the Forum Romanum or eighth region the fourth cohort con. V. viG. C. IVLIO QVINTILIANO . PR. M. FIRMIO. AMYNTIAiNO. SPK. L. SPEllATIO. IVSTO. TRIE. OENTVRIONES. C, ANTONIVS . C. F. ANTVLLVS. BERVAE. TI . CLAVDIVS.TI . F . UVFINVS . SAVAR. M . ANTONIVS . M. F. PAPIR . VALENS . RATIAR M . MVMMIVS M . F . VEHINVS. PAP. POETOV. PAELIVS P . F . AEL, SEPT. ROMVLVS AQVINQ SEVEKVS CAESARIA IVLI S SOHEMVS C RASIMIVS lANVARIVS CORNIC PR P. DEfl.MVS MAORINVS CORNIC PR M CLODIVS VE RECVNDVS CORNIC SPR On tlic Other sides of the said pedestal was found registered the names of tlic watclies belonging to the fifth cohort, as also in another inscription discovered in tlic same place. All these in- scriptions were illustrated with much learning by Kellermann, in his work. * " Septem cohortes opportunis locis constituit, ut binas regioncs urbis una quaecpic cohors tucretur, proj)ositis eis tribunis et super onines spectabili viro prreposito, qui pr;cfectus Viffilum appcllatur." Paolo in Dig. i. tit. 15. De officio Prcvfccti Vigilum. 46 REGION II. in the Piscina Publica, twelfth region and the seventh cohort in the Transtibcrina or fourteenth region. As it is stated by Dion that the cohorts of the watcli, esta- blished by Augustus, were stationed at the city walls, and the above named spot being situated near the en- closure of the walls built by Servius Tullius, the same that still existed at the time of Augustus, what has been said respecting the station of the fifth cohort is thus confirmed. The Great Market. Although the church of S. Stefano Rotondo presents, in its construction, evident signs of having been built with columns of different sorts, when it was consecrated by Pope Semplicius, it may, notwithstanding, be admitted that in this construc- tion use was made of the foundations of some ancient building of a round form. Amongst the various opin- ions suggested by topographers, in recognizing this edi- fice, it seems to mc judicious to adopt that of Nardini, who supposes that here was the great market, since this edifice is the same one that is represented in a medal of Nero (excluding, however, the interpretation of the letters written on the same of Magna Augusti, instead of Macellum Augusti) ; the circular form preserved in building the church of S. Stefano seems, in a certain manner, to be well adapted with what is represented on the medal. The position also of the monument, near the arches of the Ncronian aqueduct, gives a greater de- ,gree of probability to this opinion, since we know from Dion that the provision market, called the great market, had been dedicated by Nero. On the sides of the round edifice, represented on the medal, there seem to CELIMONTANA. 47 have been porticoes, which, with the requisite shops, evidently formed the internal enclosure of the market. To this building probably belonged some remains of ancient walls, which are situated on the eastern part of the said church. Casa Vitelliana. On the slope of the hill towards the city walls there exist a few ancient ruins, which now present the precise idea of the form of the buildings to which they belonged. Bufalini, however, as in his time there probably existed more extensive remains, in his map of Rome marked in this locality a kind of hall, with a large niche in the middle, which he thought had been the temple of Claudius, but from what has just been said respecting that temple, it appears more likely that they formed part of the great house of Vitellius, which was in this region. Campus Martins. A little beyond these ruins, towards the Lateran Basilica, and at the little church of S. Maria Imperatrice, there exist some remains of long walls of reticulated construction, which, from their vi- cinity to the church of S. Maria Imperatrice, dedicated in early times to St. Gregory, surnamed in Martio, seem to have belonged to the building that formed the in- ternal enclosure around the Celimontana Campus Mar- tius, in which the Equirifc,* were celebrated in honour * ' Altera inamiiico speetabis Eqiiiria canipo, (Jucni Tybcris curvis in latus urgct acjuis. Qui taiiien cjecta si forte tcnebitur uiuia; CifliiKs accipict imlverulentus equos." Ovid, Fusli, iii. ol!J. Eqniria, Scil : Ludi Curulcs a Ronmlo in honoreni Martis 48 REGION II. of Mars, when the inundations of the Tiber covered the lower part of the Campus Martius, properly called Campus Fonlinalis. This field, stretching near to the gate of the walls of Servius Tullius, from which it had received its name, must have been situated near the spot crossed by the walls, where there remain some ruins of ancient buildings. House of M. Aurelius. In the part situated above these ruins, towards the Lateran Basilica, where some remains of other ancient walls exist, evidently stood the house of the Emperor Marcus Aurelius, which is proved by a passage of Capitolinus in " Pertinax" to have been near the Lateran Palace. House of the Laterani. It is generally known that the Constantine Basilica of St. John was raised on the house of the Laterani, from which this Basilica has taken the denomination of Lateranense, which it still pre- serves. This house belonged to the Plautius Lateranus who, on his election to the consulate, joined the conspi- racy of Piso against Nero, and became a victim with the other confederates. -j- The locality is further con- instituti. Tliey ^vere held on the III Kal. Mart.; so m Fast. lib. ii. we read " IMarsque citos junctis ciirribus urgct cqiios ; Ex vero positiim permansit Equiria nomen : Quae Dcus in canipo prospicit ipse suo." * " Temporibus diris igitur, jussuque Neronis Longinuni, et magnos Senccre prsedivitis hortos Clausit, et egrcgias Luteranorum obsidet sedes Tota cohors." Juvenal, x. 15. W. " Et Lucanus Annteus, Plautiusque Lateranus consul desig- CELIMONTANA. 49 firmed by divers inscriptions found on the spot. In laying the foundations of the facade of the modern Ba- silica, several rooms and baths were also found that belonged to the same house ; and, in the time of Flaminius Vacca, there were found before the choir, and at the altar of the apostles, three very large niches opposite each other, with some walls that followed the same direction as the church, from which it was con- cluded that Constantine, in raising his Basilica, profited by the foundations of the house above described. It was thus ascertained that the ancient house of the Late- rani was placed in the same direction as the Constantine Basilica, and that the baptistry of Constantine adjoining it, with the remains of walls situated around having another direction, are altogether of a posterior construc- tion and evidently raised at the period of the Papal government. To this same period must have belonged those walls which were found, built with divers frag- ments of ancient marbles, in the excavations made of late years in the vineyard of the Chapter of St. John, and likewise the large wall discovered within the ad- joining hospital, built in the same manner, as stated in the memoirs of Vacca. As to the house of the Late- rani, if it had passed into the possession of the emperors, and was, as supposed, inhabited by some of those sove- reigns, it must have been of great size and magnificence. Its principal entrance seems to have been on tlic side of the ancient road along the line of the Claudian aqueduct. natus, vivida odia intulerc. . . . Lateraimm, coii.sulem desiis inludcre.' " Annul, lib. xv. W. 54 REGION III. this matter cannot be properly treated in a simple topographical indication.* Baths of Titus. From the amphitheatre just men- tioned, by means of a portico, the trace of which is seen * This ampliithcatre is believed to have been entirely finished only in the time of Doniitian. However, iiaving been commenced and nearly completed by Flavins Augustus, it was generally named the Flavian amphitheatre ; then more commonly the Co- losseum ; deriving this denomination either from its colossal mass, or from the colossal statue of Nero which after its last removal stood near it, as will be observed in the succeeding region. Not many years since this edifice was entirely encumbered with soil, which covered it up to the height of the first arches ; and, during the extensive works of excavation, there were discovered under the level of the arena divers small apartments, regularly disposed and divided by passages, which corresponded with the curvature of the building, and seemed to contain the wild beasts which were used in the spectacles. At the same time was also discovered the passage which led to the celeari in which it is believed Commodus was assailed by the conspirators. In the several stages which from the Podium were piled over each other to the internal sum- mit of the edifice, it is established that 80,000 spectators could have been seated, as we find registered in the catalogue of Victor, and in the notices of the empire. Note by Canina. \' One evening, as the emperor was returning to the palace through a dark and narrow portico, in the amphitheatre, an assas- sin, who waited liis passage, rushed upon him with a drawn sword, loudly exclaiming ' The senate sends you this !' The menace prevented the deed the assassin was seized by the guards." Gibron. I would add, there cannot be imagined a more convenient spot for an assassination at present than the deserted passages of the Colosseum. A strong guard, however, occupies the building. The historian of the "Decline and Fall," in describing the vul- gar pursuits of the tyrant Commodus, draws a vivid picture of the elegant amusements of a Roman ani])hitheatre. " Commodus resolved to exhibit before the eyes of the Roman pfojilc. On the ap])ointcd dav, the various motives of flattery, fear, and curi- ISIS AND SERAPIS. 55 in tlie centre of its northern side and as designed in medals existing of this monument tliere was a communi- cation made with the Baths of Titus, after the dedica- tion of the amphitheatre when it had been completed, which portico Titus built near it in a short space of time, as Suetonius* relates in his life. On the Esqui- osity, attracted to the amphitheatre an innumerable multitude of spectators. With arrows whose point was shaped into the form of a crescent, Commodus often intercepted the rapid career, and cut asunder the long, bony neck of the ostrich. A panther was let loose, and the archer waited till he had leaped upon a trembling malefactor. In the same instant the shaft flew, the beast dropped dead, and the man remained unhurt. The dens of the amphi- theatre disgorged at once a hundred lions, a hundred darts from the unerring hand of Commodus laid them dead as they ran raging round the arena. Neither the huge bulk of the elephant, nor the scaly hide of the rhinoceros could defend them from his stroke. iEthiopia and India yielded their most extraordinary productions, and several animals vverc slain in the amjjliitheatre which had been seen only in the representations of art, or perhaps of fancy." What a spectacle ! Gibbon subjoins in a note as a remarkable fact : " Commodus killed a cumelopurdalis or giraffe, the tallest and most gentle of the large quadrupeds. This singular animal, a native only of the interior parts of Africa, has not been seen in Europe since the revival of letters, and Buffon, though he has endeavoured to describe, he has not ventured to delineate, the giraife." Had the historian lived till our day, he would have seen our Zoological gardens equal the wonders of the amphitheatre, the imagination of the naturalist yields to the reality. We arc, how- ever, fortunately scarce in the possession of such emperors as Commodus. W. * " Ainphitheatro dedicato, thermhque juxta cderitcr extructis, munus edidit apparatissimum largissimuuiquc." Suetonius iji Tito. Amphitheutro dedicato. " Augustus id opus dcstiuavit ; Vcspa- sianus exstruxit ; Titus dcdicavit." W. u 4 56 REGION III. line, immediately in the vicinity of the Flavian amphi- theatre, various ruins of these baths are found, and as it is clearly seen that Titus made use of an anterior building to support a part of his baths, the assertion of Suetonius, that these baths were built in a short time, is confirmed. The chambers commonly called the Esquiline chambers, existing under the foundation of the Baths of Titus, may be attributed, it seems to me, to the immense building raised by Nero on the Esqui- line, which, from its size and magnificence was called the Golden House, while, from the well known verses of Martial in the second epigram, it is ascertained that these baths occupied the splendid plain that formed part of the Neronian house. It is to be observed, in the plan of these two buildings, that the anterior, or Neronian, was situated perpendicularly to the southern line, and that the subsequent building, be- longing to the Baths of Titus, had a direction slightly inclining towards the west. With respect to the archi- tecture of these buildings, I will merely observe, that by a fragment of the Capitoline marbles so often men- tioned, in which I found that a part of the thermie of Titus had been engraved noted under xxv, the entire design of this building may be determined with certainty. Water Reservoirs, called the Sette Sale. Corre- sponding to the eastern angle of the baths of Titus above described, there exist, at a short distance, the subter- ranean chambers known by tlic name of the Sette Sale, which have been ascertained to have formed a reservoir ISIS AND SERAPIS. 57 of water for the use of the adjoining baths. A fragment of the Capitoline marbles indicated under xlii., in which are traced some walls surrounded with columns, and on which are carved the first letters indicating a cistern, are considered as having related to these cisterns or reservoirs, although there were many other reservoirs in Rome. It seems, however, more probable, that the fragment marked xlii. belonged to these cisterns. These reservoirs of the thermae of Titus are known, by their direction, to have belonged to the anterior biiild- ing adapted to form part of these same baths. It being known from this circumstance that Titus availed himself of another anterior building to form reservoirs to his thermsc, it adds greater confirmation to what Suetonius wrote, that they were rapidly built, and they can be placed in no other spot than the one above described. Some remains also of ancient walls, situated in the above named angle of the thermae of Titus, shew the commu- nication that existed between these and the reservoirs already described, and, together with other remains, which on the same side project from the plan of the baths, shew to what point the golden house of Nero extended. ThcrmcEof Trajan. Rufus, Victor, and the Notitia, agree in registering after the thermae of Titus those of Trajan ; and that the latter were situated near the church of S. Martino, is proved by all tluit is stated by Anas- tasius, in the life of Symmacus. As, at tlie time of Palladio, lliere evidently existed here sundry ruins of these theniue, he was able to trace their entire form, and has given designs of them which arc comprised in D o 58 REGION III. the collection of the Roman thcrmsc, published by Burlincton, under the denomination of thermae of Ves- pasian. Of these thermsB we have at present only slight remains of the walls that supported the area placed be- fore the building, the ascent to which was by means of the large stairs designed by Palladio, with other re- mains, that belonged to the porticoes of one of the two species of court-yards indicated in the designs of the same architect, which exist in the subterranean parts of the said church of S. Mavtino. When Trajan built these thermae, which, by their situation, formed almost an addition to those of Titus, it seems also, as may be inferred from the bricks found there marked with the name of Plotina, his wife, that he made many repairs and additions also to the thermse of Titus, so that it is believed these two edifices, taken together, were called the thermae of Trajan. They were also called the Domitian thermae, from some restorations supposed to have been made by the Emperor Domitian, but by all the Regionaries it is only under their two proper denomi- nations of Titus and of Trajan that they arc registered in their catalogues ; thus, it is idle to suppose that there were other thermae at this spot than the two above described.* * Near to tlie church of S. IVIartino was found under the pon- tificate of Paul III. the following inscription relating to the above-mentioned Baths of Titus : D. M, IVLIVS , FELIX . CAMPANVS V. C. I'KAEFECTVS . VIUJIS AD. AVGENDAM . THEIIMAKVM. TRAIANORVM . GHATIAM . CONLOCAVIT, ISIS AND SERAPIS. 59 Esquiline Septizomum. In the vicinity of the above mentioned reservoirs, called the Sette Sale, it is com- monly said that the celebrated group of the Laocoon was found ; although the precise spot of the discovery cannot be known, the one pointed out in the subter- ranean chambers cleared of rubbish under the floor of Titus' Baths, not being a suitable place of deposit for such a masterpiece, as however it is known from Pliny that this group was placed in the house of Titus, it may be decided that the building was in this vicinity. Supposing this house to have been the same in which the emperor was born (which is stated by Suetonius * to have been small and mean and situated near the Septi- zonium with dark and narrow bedchambers), we must believe that here also there was a Septizonium, naturally called the Esquiline from its situation. Thus, the Septizonium mentioned by Suetonius, cannot be the one built by Scptimius Severus in an angle of the Palatine, as the latter was of a subsequent period. The Esqui- line Septizonium was probably situated at the eastern extremity of the Casa Transitoria of Nero, in a similar I recommend the traveller to examine carefully the subter- ranean chambers here referred to, as having belonged to the baths of Trajan, and situated underneath the church of S. ]\Iartino. They arc dry and clean, and in tlieir present condition and from the comparative freshness of the colours, in the drawings on the walls, afford tlie means of forming a conception of the spacious T/iermce constructed by the Roman emperors, and adorned with the rarest productions of the chisel and the pencil. \V. * " Titus, cognomine paterno, amor ac delicia; generis humani, natus est III. Kalend. Jan. insigni anno Cajana nece prope Septi/onium sordidis adibus : cuhieulo vero perparvo ct obscnro : nam manet adhuc et ostcnditur.'' Suetonius in Tito, '2.. W. D 6 60 REGION III. manner as that of Severus was subsequently situated at the extremity of the imperial palace of the Palatine. As the ruins that exist of the Neronian house are seen to continue beyond the space occupied by the thermae of Titus, towards the Settc Sale, if in the vicinity stood the above-named house of Titus, it was undoubtedly near the Septizonium as indicated by Suetonius. Thus I find the form of this Septizonium designed in a frag- ment of the ancient Capitoline map marked under jli, on which is engraved a triple circuit of walls surrounded by columns, and in the vicinity houses of a good size situated along a way, and with a long flight of steps beside it, which shew that here was the Septizonium raised on an elevation. Placing in this locality what is seen represented on the marble, it is found with cer- tainty that the Septizonium was built on the part of the Esquiline situated above the modem Via Labicana, and the ascent by the lane that leads to the Sette Sale, seems to have been nearly substituted for the above- named steps that led to the floor of the grand edifice. The modern Via Labicana, if not the ancient via of that name, as the latter evidently commenced at the Esquiline gate of the walls of Servius, seems, however, to have preserved the direction of an ancient way, as is shewn by the discovery made near the church of S. Pietro and Marccllino of a portion of pavement similar to that of the other ways of the ancients ; and this way pursued its course towards the Porta Maggiore, where, together with the Prenestine gate, the Porta Labicana existed. N^i/mphainn, or Artificial Fountain of Claudius. ISIS AND SERAPIS. 61 On the same part of the Esquiline, behind the ruins supposed to belong to the Neronian house, there are other remains of ancient walls that probably formed part of the portico marked beside the Septizonium, in the fragment above mentioned of the Capitoline plan. This edifice may be considered to have been the Nymphseum of Claudius, registered in this region by Rufus and Victor, as Ammianus informs us, that it was situated near the Septizonium, where the common people, for want of wine, came to satisfy their thirst. Ludus Magnus. The other remains of walls in con- tinuation of those above described, and which extend nearly to the Strada S. Giovanni, seem, by their arrange- ment, to have belonged to the Ludus Magnus, regis- tered here by the Regionaries, which is half designed in a stone of the Capitoline map, marked under lv. This Ludus, or school, devoted to some kind of gymnastic exercise, appears to have been of an oval shape, enclosed by rooms disposed in right angles around ; and to this school probably belonged the remains existing in this locality. Therma of Philip. The therma of Philip, regis- tered in this region by Victor, are proved to have been situated about the church of S. Matteo in Merulanse, by an inscription relating to these therma, found on this spot.* The few remains of walls that exist in a * The fragment of an inscription, wliich is said to have been found amidst the ruins uncovered near the church of St. Matteo, in Merulana, according to Punninus, is conceived in the following manner : . . . L. RVniUVS . GETA . CVR. . . P.CCCXXIIl. I). N. PIIILiri'I . AVG. THF.KM . . D 7 ' 62 REGION III. vineyard, situated opposite the place on wliich the above named church stood, not being (as it was believed) of reticular construction, it is my opinion that they, in fact, belonged to these therma, but from this circum- stance their precise form cannot be known. Quarters of the Misenati. In a small fragment of the ancient map, so often mentioned, numbered as xv, is marked the indication of the camp or quarters of the Mi- senati, which are registered in the catalogues of theRegio- naries ; and as it is known from the same fragment, that in the vicinity was the Basilica of Licinius, which is placed in the fifth region near the church of St. Vito, these quarters may be fixed in the same environs. The excavations made in the latter years of the past century, from the various objects found in them relative to ma- rine subjects, which are supposed to have decorated a little Temple of Neptune, have determined the exact site of these quarters in the adjoining Gaetani villa ; and, in fact, there remain various ruins of ancient broken walls at the opening of the Via S. Giovanni Laterano (named in Merulana), that seem to have belonged to the buildins: which formed the internal enclosure of these quarters. The little Temple of Neptune that decorated this building (placing it where the above named objects which belong to it were found) was thus situated in the middle of the northern side of the enclosure. Portico of Livia. The portico of Livia, which, by all the Rcglonaries, is registered before the Misenati quarters above described, must have been one of the principal edifices of the ancient city, as it is classed ISIS AND SERAPIS. 63 by Strabo among the most celebrated objects deserving of admiration in Rome. It is stated by Dion that this portico was raised by Augustus, on the site of the house of Vedius Pollio left to him as an inheritance which he caused to be pulled down ; and in order that no me- morial of Vedius should remain in Rome, Augustus gave to the portico the name of Livia his wife, a circum- stance mentioned in the verses of Ovid.* The situation of this portico is not well known, but as the Temple of Concord, which was erected here, is fixed by the Regio- naries to have stood in the following region, it is inferred that the portico was on the limits of the two regions. In this locality a more favourable spot cannot be found than that part of the Esquiline which bordered on the fourth region, towards the Temple of Venus and Rome, where there still exist ruins of ancient substructions that probably served to support the base of this portico. As for the Temple of Concord which had been built by Livia Augusta, it was probably situated at one extremity of the portico, the front part alone being within the enclosure ; from this it resulted, that the limit of the region passing there, the temple might be considered as belonging indifferently to the two regions. * " Discc tamen, vcnicns octns : ubi Livia nunc est Porticus, iiinnctisa teclafuisse domils. Uibis opus domus una fuit: spatiumque tencbat, Quo breviiis niuris oppida niulta tcncnt," &c. Ovid., Fusti, vi. G30, (fcc. ImmenscF tcctuj'uissc donius. The allusion is to the vast bouse of the luxurious Vedius Pollio, covering a large extent of ground, and vvbicb he bccjueathed to Augustus, who pulled it down, and built on its site the Porticus Livia:. ^V^ 64 REGION III. Sommo Coragio. Under this denomination, it is generally admitted, we are to recognise a building intended to contain the machines and instruments re- quisite for the games that were celebrated in the Flavian Amphitheatre, and it is therefore supposed to have been placed near the same amphitheatre. Of this edifice an indication is traced in the fragment of the Capitoline marbles, noted under nv, which is marked in the locality to which that edifice must have belonged. Through the care of Panvinius an inscription has been preserved relating to this monument, which confirms the surname of Summo given to it, and not that of Samio as had prevailed, but he was not able to determine its style of architecture.* * The inscription relating to il Coragio Sommo is explained by Panvinius in the following manner : HERCVLI . ET . SILVANO . EX . VOTO THOPHIMIANVS AVG. LIB. PROC . SVMMI . CHOUAGI CVM . CHIA . CONIVGE . C. The choragus was the superintendent of the public games. W. THE SACRED WAY. 65 REGION IV. TEMPLE OF PEACE, OR THE SACRED WAY. The Sacred way described. 1. A Fountain called Meta Sudans. 2. The Colossal Statue of Nero. 3. The Temple of Venus and Rome. 4. Arch of Titus. 5. Public jNIarket on a Hill. 6. Basilica of Constantine. 7. Portico, so called. 8. Temple of Remus. 9. Temple of Antoninus and Faustina. 10. Basi- lica of Paulus Emilius. 11. Forum of Passage. 12. Temple of Peace. 13. Temple of the Earth. 14. Temple of the Sun and of the Aloon. 15. House of Pompey and Vicus Scelc- ratus. 16. The Suburra. 17. Vicus Sandalarius. The fourth region was called by the ancients either the Temple of Peace or the Via Sacra, and its limits are usually admitted to be smaller than what is stated by the Regionaries, although differences are apparent in their catalogues in assigning the measurement, arising from the many edifices that existed in the region which rendered the circuit somewhat tortuous, and increased the circumference in proportion to the space occupied. It is, however, reasonable to suppose that the region was at least prolonged from the Via Sacra, or from the Temple of Venus and Rome, where it began, as far as the modern Suburra, occupying there the plain situated between the Esqullinc and the Quirinal, and that it must also have extended to that part of the Esquiline on which we have placed the portico of Livia and the Temple of Concord, The circuit of this space approximates more nearly to the measure of 18,000 feet, which Victor and the Notitiaj assign to the circum- ference of tills region, than what is usually supposed. 66 REGION IV. Via Sacra. The celebrated Via Sacra, so called, according to the common opinion, from the sacred treaty of alliance concluded here between Romulus and Tatius, is generally admitted to have commenced at the Temple of Strenia* in the Ceriolensis before the Flavian Amphitheatre, and to have ended in the Forum Romanum at the Arch of Fabius, situated a little be- yond the Temple of Antoninus and Faustina. On the line tracked by this way, which, from the Arch of Fabius, reached to the Temple of Venus and Rome (the direction being evidently that of nearly a right line), all topographers are agreed in recognising its course, but many discussions have arisen as to the deviation of the line which from that temple led to the Ceriolensis. Some were of opinion that it passed under the Arch of Titus, and thence coasting the Palatine, extended to the Meta Sudans ; and others, that it turned nearly opposite the Temple of Venus and Rome towards the north, passing along the ancient substruc- tions existing on that side. In the excavations lately made, it was ascertained that, before the building, by Hadrian, of the Temple of Venus and Rome, the Via Sacra passed from that site towards the Saccllum of Strenia by neither of those lines exactly, but at about midway between them, under the base of the said temple, thence following, probably, the direction of the buildings, traces of which were found under the pave- ment of the more modern way that passed beneath the Arch of Titus, and before the eastern front of the por- * Strcni.a was a goddess at Rome, wlio presided over tlie pre- sents wliicli relations and friends make to eacli otlier on tlie return of the new year. W. THE SACRED WAY. 67 tico of the above-named Temple of Antoninus and Faustina, where it reached its admitted termination. When, however, Hadrian in building his temple, decided, in order to give it a grander size, on occupying all the ground situated between the Palatine and the sides of the Esquiline, the Via Sacra necessarily passed under the Arch of Titus, since, on the opposite side, it has been ascertained that there did not then remain sufficient space for a principal public way like the Via Sacra. Meta Sudans. Beginning the description of the edifices that lined the said Via Sacra from its com- mencement towards the Flavian Amphitheatre, the first that presents itself is the remnant of a fountain which, from its resemblance in form to that of the meta of the Circus, was called the Meta Sudans, and is registered under this name in the Regionaries"' Catalogues. Its basin, discovered in the late excavations, was found to have been of greater size than had been previously sup- posed, and traces of the pipes that conveyed the water to it were also found. Colossus of Nero. In the same excavations the site was found where the great Colossus of Nero was situated after having been transferred by Hadrian under the direction of the architect Demetrius, and by means of twenty-four elephants, from the position where it had been placed by Vespasian. At this spot the Colossus was raised above the earth on a basement of brick construction evidently coated with marble, as has been proved by the excavation. The height of this Colossus, according to the most approved opinion, was 68 REGION IV. 120 feet, and on the head there were seven rays each twelve feet lon^^. Temple of Vemis and Rome.* The entire base of the Temple of Venus and Rome, with all that remains of the cclle, are now uncovered, in consequence of the excavations and clearances of the earth made by the Papal Government in the years 1828, 1829, and 1830. The few ruins that remain are sufficient to give an idea of the magnificence with which this temple was built by the imperial architect. The large structure of the two celle was girt by the same peristyle in the form of the pseiidodi'pteri temples !* the outward part of the area was surrounded by a majestic portico, entirely open on the smaller sides, and closed on the larger sides. Among the ruins of this portico are numerous blocks of granite columns scattered over the entire circuit of the temple. * The Greeks constructed temples with two ranges of columns all round, which were called dlpteroi. A portico projecting two columns and their interspaces is of dipteral or pseudodipteral arrangement. W. t Hadrian, the emperor, wishing to convince Apollodorns (the architect who had erected many buildings in Rome under Trajan, and had been exiled by Hadrian for despising some paintings of the emperors), that without him Hadrian could erect splendid fabrics, sent the architect the design of the Temple of Venus and Rome, demanding his opinion of the plan. The architect sug- gested alterations in the structure and as to the statues, an- swered, " they had been made too large in proportion to the height of the cell, insomuch," added Apollodorns ironically, " that if the goddess should wish to be lifted 2ip, and g forth from the tewph', she could not accomplish her desire.'' This re]ily en- raging Hadrian, he commanded Ajiollodorus to be jiut to death instantly. Dion. i. C. It is hazardous to criticise the talents of a tvrant, but Hadrian, who boasted in his passion for the arts, should have had more THE SACRED WAY. 69 Arch of Titus. At the western angle of the en- closure that stood around the above described temple of Venus and Rome, there exists, in a great part pre- served, the triumphal arch raised in honour of Titus, the son of Vespasian, by the Roman senate and people, as is proved by the following inscription placed on the southern front : SENATUS. POPULUSQUE. ROMANUS. DIVO. TITO. DIVI. VESPASIANI. F. VESPASIANO. AUGU8T0. This arch,* it is evident, was raised under the go- vernment of Domitian, to preserve the remembrance of the victory gained by Titus over the Jews. It is si- tuated on the highest part of the Via Sacra, called for this reason by the ancients the Sumnia Sacra Via. Its remains are particularly admired for the excellence of the sculpture of its decorative parts, which are readily distinguished from those added of late years in Ti- burtine stone, instead of marble, with which the monu- ment was built. respect for the opinion of a brother artist than he appears to have evinced. W. * The following other inscription relating to the same arch, and preserved hy Faunus and Panvinius, existed on the northern side of the arch. IMP. TITO. CAESAIU . DlVI. VESPASIANI . F. VESPASIANO . AVG. PONTIFICI . MAXIMO. TKIIi. POT. X. IMP. XVII. COS. VIII. P. P. PRINCIPI. SVO. S.P.Q.U. WVOI). PUAECEPTIS . PATRIS . CONSILIISQVE . ET AVSPKIS . GENTE.M . IVDAEORVM . DOMVIT . ET VKHK.M . IIIEKOSOLYMAM . OMNIIiVS . ANTE . SE DVCIIiVS . KEriinVS . C.ENTIUVSliVE . AVT . I-RVSTRA PETITAM . AVT . OMNINO . INTENTATAM . DELEVIT. 70 REGION IV. The High-market or Forum of Cupid. Opposite the north side of the same Temple of Venus and Rome there are sundry remains of arches known to have be- longed to a building which was cut through in some parts in the construction of the neighbouring temple. This building seems to us to have been the High- market which, with the Forum of Cupid, is proved by the derivation of the name to have been the same building, situated near the Via Sacra in an elevated position, as the appellation of higli given by Varro to this market makes it evident. This position, pre- cisely before the construction of the temple, Avas near the Via Sacra at an elevated spot; and as before this building there probably stood some piazza it was also distinguished by the ancients under the name of Forum. Basilica of Constantine. In the large ruin of an ancient building known under the name of Temple of Peace, and which exists at the beginning of the descent of the Via Sacra, near the above named Temple of Venus and Rome, Professor Nibby has been the first to recognize the Constantine Basilica, registered in this region, after the Via Sacra, by Rufus, Victor, and the Notitia. I find it reasonable to follow this opinion, first, because this edifice approaches in its construction much more to a basilica than to a temple ; and, in fact, Palladio, in the drawings he made of this monu- ment, when it was far less ruined, did not represent merely at hazard four corridors on the sides, whicli rising to the half of the edifice, formed a second order of porticoes, as it was customary with the ancients in the basilicas ; and these are seen indicated by the THE SACRED WAY. 71 double row of arches that remain, and by the joints preserved in the external walls. This opinion is fur- ther confirmed in observing that the style of its archi- tecture greatly resembles that of the works made about the same epoch of Maxcntius, in which it is supposed, from what is related by Aurelius Victor, that this ba- silica was built, and in particular from being conform- able to the style seen to have been followed in the construction of the great thermae of Diocletian, which were built a very few years before. In further con- firmation of this opinion it is asserted, that among the ruins of this edifice some medals of Maxentius have been found. The front of this basilica was evidently turned at its first construction towards the Temple of Venus and Rome, and touched on a way that diverged from the Via Sacra. Thus, when it was dedicated by the senate to the Emperor Flavius Constantino in memory of his deeds, or wlicn it was converted into a Christian temple, the principal front was placed on the side towards the Via Sacra, and on this occasion the small portico was added which was found to have been formed of four porphyry columns, and the apsis was also added on the opposite side in front of this second entrance. This building was also known to have been built on the ground occupied before by various private houses ; and in a subterranean part, under the lateral nave the best preserved, are still seen the remains of an anterior solid building. Arched portico. The ancient way which, branching off from the Via Sacra, passed before the first front of the above named basilica, soon met the rising ground 72 REGION IV. on "which was situated the High-market ; from the indi- cations I have been able to recognize, and from what Piranesi states was found in the excavations made in his time, it seems that this may have communicated at that spot with another way, situated on the opposite side of the above-named elevation, by means of an arched way, and that along the latter stood the portico named the arched portico, from having been evidently covered with an arch, which is registered in this region by Rufus and Victor. This same way, before reaching the said passage, seems further to have turned also along the right side of the Temple of Venus and Rome, and to have risen to the upper ground occupied by the High-market. Temple of Remus Continuing the descent of the Via Sacra, after the basilica just described, there is a round edifice now used as a vestibule to the church of S. Cosimo and Damian ; and this edifice is known by tradition as the Temple of Remus, registered by Rufus and Victor amonGfst the first edifices of this rej^-ion. This temple was also called that of Romulus by Anas- tasius, in speaking of the construction of this church by Pope Felix IV. Temple of Antonimis and Faustina. After the Tem- ple of Remus is the one which, from the following in- scription engraved on the front, is known to have been dedicated to Antoninus and his wife Faustina by a decree of the senate. niVO . ANTONINO . ET . DIV^: . KAlSTIN.i: . KX. S.C. Of this temple there remain the columns of the THE SACRED WAY. 78 portico, with a part of the walls that formed the cella, and by the excavations lately made it is known that the temple was raised on a high basement. Around it there was an enclosure decorated with arches and columns, the remains of which were discovered and destroyed at the time of Palladio, as he himself declares in his description of this temple. Basilica of Paulus Eviilius. Of the two basilicie that Paulus Emilius erected, in part with the money he received from Caesar, in order that he should not oppose his designs ; one is registered by the Region- aries in this region, the other in the eighth region. The former, built with ancient columns, is said by Cicero to have been in the middle of the Forum, and this seems to have been the one considered as having formed part of the eighth region ; while the second, built throughout with great magnificence, seems to have been also in the Forum, but on the part situated towards the above- named Temple of Antoninus and Faustina, near its limits with the eighth region. To this basilica, how- ever, I do not think should be attributed, as is gene- rally done, the fragment of the ancient Capitoline map, XXIV, in which is represented an apsis with a part of the foundations of a basilica, as it is not possible to adapt to this locality what has there been represented ; and also because to this situation did not belong the other small fragment on whieli is written Emili, marked XXI, wliich was added subsequcntlv, as will be better shewn in tlie eighth region. Forum Transilorium. There still exists, at a place called the Culonnacce, a small part of the enclosure that 74 REGION IV. stood round the Forum built by Domitian, and after- Avards called Nerva, from the emperor of that name.* Under the pontificate of Paul V. the portico was de- molished which had remained of the temple situated in the middle of this Forum, on the facade of which was the following inscription relative to the Emperor Nerva : IMP. NERVA. CAES. AVG. PONT. MAX. TRIB. POT. II. IMP. II. PROCOS. This temple is supposed to have been the one dedicated to Minerva, or Pallas, that Aurelius Victor places in this Forum, for which reason it was also called the Palladium Forum. The name of Pervium or Tran- sitorium had also been given to it as it served as a passage. Palladio, who saw greater remains of it, could conceive its entire structure, as is proved by the designs he left, from which it clearly appears that the above ruins could not form part of the same edifice, that which existed at the Arco de"* Pantani, as some topo- graphers have pretended to affirm. In a fragment of the ancient map of Rome, marked xix, I found the ])art of this Forum represented that stood near the Temple of Nerva, with the indication of the place that served as a passage. It seems, therefore, that it may be inferred from the long form of this Forum, that it had been built in the space occupied by a large part of some ancient way which was also called a Forum, as is " Plunma et aniplissima opera inccndio absumta rcstituit : in qiicis et capitolium, quod rursus arserat : sed omnia sub titulo tantuin suo, ac sine ulla pristini auctoris nicnioria. Novani autein excitavit fcdem in capitolio Cmtodi Jovi, et forum quod nunc Nerva vocatur." Suetonius in Domitiano, v. THE SACRED WAY. 75 proved by the denomination of Transitorium it had preserved, from this place having continued to remain a passage. In this Forum stood, even before Domitian had surrounded it with a fine enclosure, the small Tem- ple of Janus Quadrifons. And this small temple is proved by some verses of Martial,* to have had in this locality its four fronts turned to as many Fori. Temple of Peace. -f The celebrated Temple of Peace, built by Vespasian near the Roman Forum, as related in his life written by Suetonius, in which he afterwards placed all the interesting objects he had collected, and the golden vases taken from the Temple of Jerusalem, was also near the above-named " Forum Palladium," as may be inferred from the verses of Martial, which indi- cated the place where his book was sold.| In the vicinity of the two Fori above mentioned, I find no spot fitter to place this temple, than the one correspond- ing to the southern side of the said Forum Palladium, and behind the temple of Antoninus and Faustina, at * " Pervius cxiguos habitabas ante Penates, Plurima qua medium Roma terebat iter. Nunc tua Caesareis cinguntur liniina donis, Et fora tot numeras, Jane, (juot ora geris." jMartial, X. 28. f " Ne tamen ignores ubi sim vcnalis, et erres, Urbc vagus tota ; mc duce certus eris. Libertiini docti Lucensis qusere secimdum Liniina post pacis, Palladiumquc forum." jMartiai,, i. 2. X Tills temple must have been one of the priiieipal edifices of Rome ; since it was built by Vcspa.sian with much magnificence by the riches he had acquired from the destruction of the king- dom of the Jews. It was adorned by the choicest pictures and works of art. It was not rebuilt, however, after the fire which E 2 7b REGION IV. which precise spot there still exists a remnant of ancient wall of solid construction, with square stones, which, being in the same direction as the enclosure of the Forum Palladium, may, with evident probability, be considered as having belonged to the posterior part of the cella of this temple. And as, according to what has been observed above, to each of the four fronts of the little Temple of Janus, situated in the Fonim Tran- sitorium, must have corresponded a Forum, and as it is proved by the description of Giuseppe Flavio that the temple was enclosed by a wall, and as it is known by the works of Ammianus Marccllinus and Procopius, that this enclosure was also called a Forum, we are enabled to confirm the position of this temple with its enclosure, or Forum, at this spot ; and, in fact, to the southern front of the said Temple of Janus, unless this edifice were placed in this position, there would have been wanting a corresponding Forum to complete, with the Roman and Palladium Fori and with that of Casar, the entire indicated circuit. On the two sides of the Temple of Peace there seem to have been placed, on one the library in which the literati held their meet- ings, and on the other a place where private individuals partially consumed it in the reign of Commodus. To it belonged that pedestal found in 1547, near the arch of Septimius Severus, on which exists the following inscription : PACI . /ETKHN^ DOML'S IMr. VKSI'ASIANI C;ESAK1S . AUG. LIBEROKUMy. KIVS. SAC-UUM TRIB. JVC. ivNioR. Curiiiui. THE SACRED WAY. 77 deposited their riches. On the space occupied by one of these sides, the church of St. Cosimo and Damian seems to have been built, as it evidently stands on ancient foundations. Temple of Tellus. By some passages in the Acts of the Martyrs, it is proved that the Temple of Tellus stood before that of Pallas, which was in the Forum Transitorium. As, however, in the front part of the Temple of Pallas stood the Forum and little Temple of Janus, that of Tellus must have been situated on the opposite side towards the church of S. Quirico, which seems to be identical with the site where stood the church of S. Salvatore, denominated in Tellure, as may be ascertained from the map of Rome, by Bufalini, As it is also stated by Palladio, that behind the Temple of Pallas there was a curvilinear wall, of which some traces remain, and as it is also marked on the above-named fragment of the Capitoline map which I recognised as belonging to the same temple, I am of opinion that a kind of apsis formed part of the enclosure that surrounded the temple by a portico, as indicated in the said fragment ; and this apsis could not belong to the cella of the temple, as has been believed, since by tliis place must have passed the way that came from the Forum Transitorium and the one that ran along the enclosure of the Forum of Augustus. It docs not appear that this temple could have had the round form assigned to it, on account of its having been dedicated to Tellus or to the Earth, since it served occasionally, like that of the Temple of Concord, for the meetings of the senate, to which the circular form was not well F. 3 78 REGION IV. adapted, and, besides, the Temples of the Sun and Moon, which stood near to it, were not of a round form, which would have been equally suitable for these temples also. Temples of the Sun and Moon. The vicinity of the Temples of the Sun and Moon to the Temple of Tellus is deduced, first, from their being registered after each other by Rufus, and, secondly, from the fragment of the ancient map of Rome, marked xxii., on which is in- scribed a part of the indication of the place where the Temple of Tellus was situated, adjoining on the map the plan of two temples united by means of three arches, which being in this position, could only be, most pro- bably, the above dedicated to the Sun and ^loon. In placing what is represented on the ancient fragment in this locality, it is found, that to the cella of one of these temples belonged the walls built with square stones that support the tower called Dei Conti. In some of the excavations made of late years hereabouts, there were found various ruins of architectural structures that must have belonged to the above-mentioned temples. It is to be observed, that along the wall enclosing the Forum Transitorium, there stood a portico formed of columns, as is denoted by the above-named fragment ; and from this it is supposed that the indication in Tel- lure, marked on the fragment, did not relate to the temple, but to the place where it was situated, and for this reason cannot be attributed to either of the two tem- ples designated in the said fragment, whilst the temple of Tellus must have been situated more towards the hill. House of Pompey and Vicus Sccleratus. Near the locality above described, towards the Flavian Amphi- THE SACRED WAY. 79 theatre, was situated the well-known part of the town called by the ancients, Carinse, in which, as stated by Suetonius, stood the house of Pompey,'^''" registered in this region by Rufus and Victor immediately after the Carinoe. Of this house (which is proved by the writings of Dion and Capitolinus, to have subsequently belonged to Mark Antony and to the elder Gordian)-f- the ruins of ancient substructions existing at the base of the Es- quiline before they join the remains of the Neronian house, seem to have formed part, the direction of these ruins corresponds with those beneath the Baths of Titus. By the same place above described, called in Tellure, passed the ancient way which, proceeding from the Ro- * From the following inscription, it is sought to be established tliiit the street was near to the Temple of Fortuna Seja, erected by Servius Tullius, and enclosed afterwards by Nero in his golden GERMANICO . CAESARE C. FONTEIO . CAPITONE . COS. KAL . IVN. SEIAE . FOHTVNAE . AVG. SACK. SEX . FONTEIVS . C. L. TROPHIMVS CN. VOMPEIVS . CN. L. NICEPHOKVS MAG. VICI SANDALAIU . REG. IIII. ANM. XVIII. U.D. The classical scholar will perceive we are in regions of the ancient cltv, familiar to his memory from the pages of Horace ami other Latin pouts. In a brief space we have passed over districts wliieli iiiiglit engage the attention of the diligent traveller profitably for weeks. W. t " Tlie family of Gordianus was one of the most illustrious of the Roman senate. On the father's side he was descended from the Giaeclii, on his mother's from the Emperor Trajan. The palace in liome, formerly inhabited by the great Pompey in Caj'inis, liad l)ecn during several generations in the possession of Gordian's familv." Gibbon. W. 80 REGION IV. man Forum through the space occupied by the Forum Transitorium, reached the Vicus Cispius, at the end of which, turning to the right by the Clivus Virbius, Tul- lia drove her chariot over the dead body of her father, Servius; and from this atrocious act this place was called the Vicus Sceleratus. The same locality, under the name of Vicus Sceleratus, is registered in this region by Rufus, and it appears to have been nearly in the situa- tion of the modem Via delta Madonna dei Monti, vfhence, turning to the right, it must have met the Clivus Virbius, by which it went up to the part of the Esquiline called Cispius, where the house of Servius was situated. Suhurra. In the plain comprised in this region, placed under the part of the Esquiline on which is the church of S. Pietro in Vincoli, there is a place called the Suburra, which seems to have preserved the position of the ancient locality called by the same name,* which formed part of the first of the four regions determined by Servius, and is registered in this region by the Notitise and by Victor. Nardini, seeing it to have been * Suburra. We all remember the repeated mention in the classics of this celebrated noisy street of old Rome. Thus in Juvenal, " Ego vel Prochytam prpepono Suburra.'"'' In Horace, Ep. v., " Suburrannc canes : " it was vicus frequen- tissimus (inter Esquilias et Viminalem), in quo habitabant mere- trices, ct "nequitiae sua? ofticinam habcbant." Hence the allu- sion in Persius. " Cum blandi comitcs, totaque impunc Suburra, Permisit sparsisse oculos jam candidus umbo.'" In the Epigram of Martial, L. (5, G6. " Famse non nimium bon?e ])ucllam Quales in media sedent Suhurra Vendebat mode prajco Gellianus," &c. THE SACRED WAY. 81 Notitia and by Victor. Nardini, wishing to register it also in the second region by Rufus, has endeavoured to prove its displacement, but this circumstance it does not appear possible to adapt well to other things that relate to this locality, and as it is variously registered in sundry places by the Regionaries, it was probably situated on the limits of the two above named regions. On the marbles also of the ancient map of Rome the indication of the Suburra is marked on a fragment, xviii, with part of a building composed of a peristyle of columns which must have belonged to some edifice situated in this locality, but it is not possible to deter- mine the precise use to which it was appropriated. Vicus Sandalarius. In another fragment of the same ancient map of Rome, marked lii, is engraved a part of the Vicus Sandalarius, Avhich is registered by Rufus and by Victor, together with an Apollo marked with its name, but in what part of the region this Vicus was placed is not well known. Yet, from the infor- mation derived from the locality occupied by this region, and from what is seen traced on the same fragment, it may be decided that the above-named street corre- sponded to the middle of the part of the region situated between the Esquiline and the Quirinal, near the spot occupied by the Temple of Fortuna Seja, marked in an inscription relating to the said street, Avith all the houses traced on the same fragment ; for this reason the above named temple is registered by Rufus in the second Esquiline region. 82 THE ESQUILINE. REGION V. THE ESQUILINE. 1, Temple of Jupiter Vimineus. Temple of Venus Erycina. Pretorian Camp, Viminal Field (in the book, not in the margin of Canina's map). 2. Baths of Olympia. (Baths of Novatus and house of Pudens, in book, not in map.) 3. Bath of Agrippina. 4. Temple of Sylvanus. (Palace of Scrvius Tullius, in book, not in map.) 5. Temple of Juno Lucina. 6. Market. 7. Arch of Gallicnus. 8. Camp of Misenati (on map, not in book). 9. Reservoirs of the Julian Fountain. 10. Sepulchre unknown. 11. Sepulchre of the Arunzi. 12. Temple of Minerva Medica. 13. Sessorium Basilica (Liciniana in book, not in map). 14. Amphitheatre of the Camp (dift'er- ently placed in book). 15. Reservoirs of Water (diiFcrcntly placed in book). 16. Claudian Aqueduct, and that called New Anio. (Tomb of Eurysaces, not in the map. Temple of Ancient Hope, not in the map.) 17. Aqueduct of the Mar- cian, Tepulian, and Julian Waters. 18. Aqueduct of the New Anio, and Appian Water. (Baths of Helena, in book, not in map. Circus named Varianus, in book, not in map.) 19. The Street Sandalarius, on the map of contents, Region V., but described in the last paragraph by Canina in Region IV. The fifth region, called the Esqniline, from the hill on which it was in part situated, extended from the Viminal hill and from the summit of the Esquiline, called by the ancients Cispius, to the enclosure of the eastern part of the walls of Aurelian. It is proper, however, to observe that, in the circumference marked by the Rcgionaries of 15 or 16,000 feet, several edi- fices could not be comprised that were situated at some THE ESQUILINE. 83 distance from the above-named locality, and which were registered in the catalogues of the Regionaries, either by posterior additions, or because they came within the jurisdiction of this region. Temple of Jupiter Vimineus. Beginning the exa- mination of the buildings that were on the part of the region placed on the Viminal, as the one nearest to the antecedent region, the first is the temple, or altar of the Viminean Jove, which is registered by Rufus before any other edifice, and this is inferred from Fcstus, in explaining the word Viminal, to have been towards the gate that derived its name from the said hill, on which it was situated, or on that part of the hill which is nearest to the thermae of Diocletian. As above the ancient church of S. Pudenziana a small round edifice, with some antique statues, was found, under the pon- tificate of Sixtus v., it may be decided, to a certainty, that this temple was situated at that spot. Temple of Venus Erycina. Towards the above- named spot, but beyond the mound of Scrvius, must have been the Temple of Venus Erycina, as it is regis- tered by the Regionaries after the Temple of the Vimi- nean Jove, and this Temple of Venus must have been out of the Porta Collina, as stated by Livy* and Ovid, so that it was necessarily between the agger of Scrvius and tlie wall of Aurelian. If, however, it was situated very * Tlic references to Livy are incorrectly given by Canina ; tlie ])assan'e.s wiiicli indicate the situation of tlie temple of Venus Erycina are the following: : " Nam ita abundavit Tiberis, ut buli Apollinarcs, circo inun- (lato, extra Porlam Collinaiii mlcedetn Kri/ciiuc Fencz-js parati sint." Fiivv, xxx. :)S. 84 THE ESQUILINE. near the said gate, it must have been one of the edifices that belonged to the region only for the jurisdiction. Castrum Pnttorium. It is only for the purpose of jurisdiction that to this region may be assigned, though And again, in lib. xl. 34, Livy records " iEdes duae eo anno dedicatas sunt : una Veneris Erycinae ad portam Collinam : dedicavit L. Porcius L. F. Licinius duumvir." This was a. u. c. 571, as Strabo tells us. There was another temple of Venus (E.) on the Capitolinc Hill, dedicated a. u, c. 537, and the title Eri/cina was from Eryx, a mountain of Sicily, upon which (as Strabo also informs us) there was a splendid Temple to Venus, attributed to ^Eneas and the Trojans. The allusion to this subject by Ovid is known to scholars : " Templa frequentari Collinse proxima porta) Nunc decet : a Siculo nomina colle tenent. Utque SjTacusas Arethusidas abstulit armis Claudius, et bello te quoque cepit, Eryx ; Carmine vivacis Venus est translata Sibyllse," &c. OviR, Fasti iv. Neapolis amusingly exclaims on this passage " Pace tua dicam, mi Ovidi, hallucinaris ! " and accuses his poet of having committed two blunders, one in confounding the two temples of Venus Erycina at Rome, and the other in making the building of a temple depend on an occurrence which did not take place till after it was built ! Others, however, defend him ; critics must settle the point amongst them. W. Canina in a note observes, " This proximity to the Porta Col- lina, indicated by Livy to have been the place where the Apol- linarian games were prepared, fixes the situation of the temple between the mound of Servius (in the southern extremity of which was the Porta Collina and the enclosure of the walls of Aurelian), and perhaps at the point of separation of the Via Salara and Via Nomentana, which issued from tlie same gate. Strabo has fixed this temple in the same locality. From the same writer we learn that this temple was surrounded by a portico, and that the entire edifice was of surprising beauty. In like manner, outside the Porta Collina we know, as recorded by Livy and Cicero, the Tem])le of Hercules and the Temple of Honour were ])laced, al- though we cannot ascertain their exact situation." THE ESQUILINE. 85 it is not registered in the Regionaries catalogues, the Praetorian camp, established by Sejanus, under the em- pire of Tiberius, of which a great part still remains, in the enclosure behind the Diocletian baths, built of a good brickwork, and subsequently adapted to the use of the city walls. Around this enclosure were, evi- dently, disposed the quarters of those praetorians deputed to guard the camp, as some traces are seen in the in- ternal part of the wall that remains. In the middle of the eastern side was probably placed the temple indi- cated in an antique medal representing this camp. These quarters have the form of the camps that were usually pitched by the Roman soldiers during their campaigns, and must have been distributed in as many divisions as there were praetorian cohorts, of which the number has been calculated as far as sixteen, and must have contained distinct habitations for the tribunes and the prefect, with all the requisites for soldiers' quarters, as particularly described by Polybius and by Iginus. Two of the principal gates still exist, though closed, on both sides of the enclosure, and arc preserved entire. There must have been similar gates, both on the side turned towards the city, which side is now entirely destroyed, and on the side towards the cast.* * On a tube of lead that introduced water into tlicsc quarters was found tlie following inscription, which proves it to have been that conduit made by Marcus Opellius Macrinus, who from being prefect of the prpctorian guard became emperor : IMP . CAES . M . OPELLI . SEVERl . MACUINI . AVG. M . OPELLI . SEVEIU . DIADVMEMANI , CAES . PIUN . IV. CASTKIS . PItAETOlU TEHENTIVS . CASSANDEU . FECIT. Cuuina. 86 REGION V. Campus Viminalis. At a short distance from the above quarters, towards the place where the Viminal gate stood, must have been the Campus Viminalis, which the Regionaries agree in placing under the mound, and, for this reason, between the spot where the mound is known to have been situated and the actual city walls. It appears, also, that it was in this very field that Sylla quartered his army, when he came to Rome to oppose the faction of Marius. The Olympiad Baths. On the southern part of the Viminal hill, now occupied by the church of S. Lo- renzo, in Panisperna, topographers usually place the Olympiad baths, in consequence of inscriptions found there and of what is known of the acts of S, Lorenzo. In fact, there still exist various remains of an ancient building, and a greater number were marked by Bufa- lini in his map of Rome, and these are seen cut through to make the road that leads direct to S. Maria Maggiore. Here, also, as related by Flaminius Vacca, was found a large arch under the church, with others near it, placed over each other, and adorned witli grotesque figures and other similar ornaments,* which belonged perhaps to these baths. * The inscription respecting the 01\iiipiacl batlis, translated bv GrutcrOj is conceiveJ in tlie following terms : PEIU'ERNIE , HELPIDI CONIVGl . OPTIMAE PIISSIiMAE HEX . AEMILIVS MVUINVS PERMISSV . ATIIICTI AMICI L. CLOCLIAS . V. Caninu. THE ESQUILINE. 87 Baths of Novatus and House of Piidens. Ad- joining the baths above described, at the spot occupied by the church and monastery of S. Pudenziana, where there arc slight remains of an ancient edifice, many topographers place the thcrma of Novatus, the brother of S. Pudenziana and S. Prassede ; but Nardini and Cassio are of opinion that they were under the church of S. Prassede; since, where the church of S. Puden- ziana stands they place the house of Pudcns, a Roman senator. These therma seem not to have been large, as they are not registered in the Regionaries"' cata- logues. Bath of Agrippina. The Bath of Agrippina, registered by Rufus and by Victor, one after the other, before the Olympiad therms above described, is known to have been under the Viminal, in the valley situated between this hill and the Quirinal, both from some statues of Bacchus found there, at the foot of which was an inscription, stating that they had been placed in tliis bath, and from sundry terra cotta and lead pipes existing there, which arc supposed to have belonged to this edifice. On a stone of the ancient map of Rome, so often mentioned, marked xv, a part of this bath is represented ; this part docs not belong to the small round edifice engraved on it, which presents more the form of some altar raised on steps, than that of an edifice, but rather of the other building designed beside it, which, according to the locality represented in this situation, was at the back of the large substruction existing on the western side of the Viminal, built with brick and reticulated work of the first stvle. 88 REGION V. Temple of Syhanus, From some marbles found in the same valley, situated between tlie Viminal and the Quirinal, and the passage of an ancient testament of Favonius Jocondus, it is proved that here stood the Temple of Sylvanus registered by the Rcgionaries in this region ; and, by another inscription, also found in this vicinity, it is proved that the said temple had a por- tico round it, built by Lucius Vallius Solon, and that it was dedicated under the consulate of Piso and Bolanus.* The letter M, engraved on the above-mentioned fragment of the Capitoline marbles, probably formed part of the indication of this temple ; and thus it seems that, in this locality, it was situated near the Bath of Agrippina, and that the columns marked on the said marble belonged to the portico above named, that was built around the temple. Palace of Servius. On the summit of the Esquiline, called by the ancients " Cispius,*" which is situated be- tween the Viminal and the other summit of the Esqui- line, called by the ancients " Oppius," there exist some remains of ancient substructions that belonged to some edifice situated in the inferior part of this locality, and probably to the house of the younger Pliny, which was near the suburra, as he himself says in the last letter of * The following inscription refers to a portico of this temple : SILVANO . SANCTO LVCIVS . YALLIVS . SOLON PORTICVM . EX . VOTO . FECIT DEDICAVIT . KAL . APRILIIUS risoNE . ET . BOLA.No . COS. Cunina. THE ESQUILINE. 89 the third book. On the highest part of this spot may, it seems, be placed the house or palace of Servius Tul- lius, as registered by the Regionaries, to which the Clivus Virbius led, as has been stated in the preceding region when mentioning the Vicus Sccleratus. Beneath this position the Vicus Patrizius was evidently situated. It was inhabited by the Patricians at the period of the reign of Servius, agreeably to the explanation given by Festus of this denomination. In the ancient Capi- tolinc map there is a small fragment, marked xxii, on which this street is engraved, and it must have cor- responded to the spot occupied by the modern Via di S. Pudenziana. Temple of Juno Lucina. On the same summit of the Esquiline, and in the court- yard of a house situated along the modern Via di Santa Maria Maggiore, exists the remnant of an ancient wall, built with square stones, that seems to have belonged to the Temple of Juno Lucina, which, together with its wood, is designated by Ovid* as being at this place. This temple being registered by the Regionaries as existing at their time, * " Monte sub Esquilio inultis inciduus annis Juiioiiis niaj,fnje noiuiiic lucus crat. Hue ul)i venerunt ; paritcr nuptrcquc viiique Supplieiter posito proeul)Ufjre genu." Ovid, Fasti, ii. 435. In ]\Iurray's" Hand-hook for Central Italy," p. 3,") 1, the eompiler, in deseribini;- the basiliea of Santa Maria Mapgiore, observes, "It is supposed to occupy the site of a temple of Juno Lueina, wlueli probably supplied tlie cohnnns of the interior.'' Canina assigns an excellent reason to prove this sujipo&ition to be mistaken. W. 90 REGION V. that is towards the end of the fourth century, it seems that it could not be placed on the spot occupied by the church of S. Maria Maggiorc, as this had been built by S. Liberius before that period ; and for this reason the mosaic pavement found under the said church at the time of Benedict XIV. must have belonged to another edifice. The Livianus Market. This market, registered by the Regionaries amongst the edifices of this region, is proved to have been situated between the church of S, Vito and that of S. Maria Maggiore ; first, by the de- nomination of the said church in early times, of S. Vito in Marccllo, and also by what is stated by Anastasius, who asserts that the church of S. Maria Maggiore was built by Liberius, near this market. Opposite the church of S. Antonio, situated between the two above- named churches, there having been found many columns of grey marble on an ordinary marble pavement, it may be supposed that they belonged to this market, together with some slight remains of ancient walls still existing in the houses situated before the said church of S. An- tonio. In a fragment of the Capitoline map, marked XVII, a part of this market is represented, and shews that it was composed of porticoes, with shops in the middle. This fragment could not have belonfjcd to anv other market than this, since that of Nero, erected on the Celian, was of a circular form as it has been elsewhere observed. Arch of Gallienus. Near the above-named church of S. Vito, there exists the middle part of the arch erected in honour of Gallienus, as is proved by the THE ESQUILINE. 91 inscription in two lines engraved on it.* This arch must evidently have been situated on the ancient way that passed through the Esquiline gate ; and it is seen that there were two secondary apertures on the sides. Basilica Liciniana. Near the same church of S. Vito is said to have been the basilica named " Siciniana," from Sicinius, or Sicininus in the opinion of some ; and in that of others Liciniana, from Licinius Gallienus Augustus. Of this basilica there is an indication in the fragment of the ancient well-known map, relating to the quarters of the Misenati ; and to this basilica are supposed to have belonged the remains of an ancient building that exist near the church of S. Antonio ; but as these are situated rather too far from the spot indi- cated, it seems to me that they cannot be assigned to this basilica. Reservoir of the Acqua Julia. The ruins of the ancient monument situated at the end of the Via di Santa Maria Maggiore, and of the Via Santa Bibiana, commonly called the " Trophies of Marius," from the two marble trophies that were placed between two niches, and arc now on the Piazza of the Capitol, are generally admitted to have belonged to a reservoir sub- sequently adorned with the above-named trophies, pro- bably in honour of the Dacian victories gained by the Emperor Trajan, as is proved by the resemblance of * GALLIEXO . CLE.MENTISSIMO . PIUNCIPI . CVIVS . INVICTA VIRTUS . SOLA . I'lETATE . SUI'EKATA . EST . ET . SALONIAN/T-; SANCTISSl.M/E . AVG . JI. AVRELIVS . VICTOIl . DEDICATISSIMLS . NLMINI MAJESTATISQLE . EOIIUM. 92 REGION V. the arms observed on these trophies with those of the Dacians carved on the Trajan column. The water that issued from this reservoir is believed by Piranesi to have been the Julia water. He found the level of its duct placed near the Porta Maggiore, and prolonged to the Porta S. Lorenzo, to be the only one of the three waters brought over the same arches that corres- ponded to the line of this reservoir. Thus, if the trophies that were placed there, were really of the time of Trajan, it may be supposed that they were erected on the occasion of some repairs or additions made to this edifice under the above-named emperor. In the adjoining vineyard there still exist some re- mains of the aqueduct that brought the water to this reservoir ; and other ruins of the same aqueduct were discovered in another vineyard, situated near the one above-named. Sepulchre situated along the Prenestine Wai/. The two modern roads that lead from the above-mentioned re- servoir, one in the direction of the Prenestine, the other of the Tiburtine roads, seem to have preserved the di- rection of two other ancient roads that went out of the Esquiline gate. Along the first of these ways, it is re- lated by FlaminiusVacca, that an octangular building was discovered, supposed by him to have been a fountain, within which several antique statues were found ; and near this there was also found a remnant of the pave- ment of the ancient way that passed through it. Along the same road, on the side opposite the ruin above de- scribed, there is a large mass of a circular building, which, from its style and situation beyond the walls of THE ESQUILINE. 93 Servius, is generally supposed to be an ancient tomb, but it is not known to whom it belonged. Tomb of the Arunzi. Other tombs lining the same way, but much nearer the Prenestine gate, and differ- ently formed in the shape of Colombaria, were disco- vered in the last century, with a part of the pavement of the ancient way that passed by that spot. One of these, situated to the right of the road, was recognized by the inscriptions found on it, as having belonged to the Arunzi family. Minerva Medica. Near the above-named tombs exists the well-known ruin of a round building com- monly called the Temple of Minerva Medica. From its more ancient appellation of Galluzze, it Avas wished to ascribe it to the portico of Caius and Lucius, mentioned by Suetonius in the life of Augustus ; but the style of building by no means corresponds to the time of Augus- tus, in which the said basilica was built, nor could a si- milar edifice be, with propriety, attached to it, as, in confirmation of his opinion, is stated by Bufalini in his map of Ancient Rome, since Sangallo, Sculio, Palladio, and so many other accurate observers of ancient objects, who were anterior to, or contemporary with, Bufalini, give no indications of it in the designs they have made of this monument. Besides, it is now agreed, from what is declared in the celebrated " ancira"" inscription, that the basilica named by Augustus that of Caius and Lucius, was the same as the one commonly called the Julian, tliat was in the Roman Forum. To what use this edifice was destined it is difficult to find out ; !:ut, admitting what is said bv Anastasius 94 REGION V. respecting the building by Pope Simplicius of the S. Bibiana church, in the vicinity of the Licinian palace, it may be admitted that this ruin formed some wall of the palace or house of the Emperor Licinius, annexed to the gardens called the Licinian from his name, or from some other of the Lieini, who are known in the history of the ancients ; unless, however, it will not be believed that this building was altered into a hall des- tined to medical meetings, as was the opinion of Guat- tani, from the discovery of a statue representing the Goddess of Medicine ; and that for this reason the edifice was denominated " Minerva Medica," as it is registered by the Regionaries.* Claudian Aqueduct and that called the Anio novus. The enclosure of Aurelian near the Prenestine gate is entirely formed on the arches of the great aqueduct that conveyed the two distinct waters, one named the Claudian, the other the Anio novus ; and the above- named gate is opened in an arch of the large monument built to decorate and to widen the passage into the two roads that, at a little distance, separated, one in the tli- rection of Prseneste, called the Prenestina, the other (jf Labicum, called the Labicana ; thus, in the other arch, existed the Labicana gate beside the Prenestina of the above-named enclosure of Aurelian, while the two were * Tiic remaining portion of the shell of tliis temple has been pro])ped up lately, and it is likely to last for some ages. It stands in the centre of what is now a vegetable garden, and has a venerable ap])earance. There are no habitations near it, and the locality befits a Roman ruin, which forms a favourite sketch for the artists who have succeeded the warriors and emperors who once dwelt in the eternal citv, W. THE ESQUILINE- 95 substituted for the Esquiline gate of the walls of Servius. The two above-mentioned gates, that were built within the two largest arches of the aqueduct, Avere lately pulled down in order to lay open the said monu- ment, when, in a wall of the modem enclosure, the in- cription in the note No. 1 was placed, written in honour of Arcadius and Honorius, on account of the re-estab- lishment of the walls, towers, and gates, which was exe- cuted by Flavius Stilico.* Above this large monument still exist the channels of the waters mentioned, and on the two fronts arc the very important inscriptions transcribed in succession in the note. The first was placed by Claudius both for the aqueduct known by his own name, and for the one called the Anio novus, in order to distinguish it from the other, equally de- rived from the Anio in anterior times. This inscription is engraved in four lines on the upper part of the aqueduct, where the channel of the water called the Anio novus passed. -f- * s . P . Q . R IMI'l- . CAESS . DD . i\N . INVICTISSIMIS . PRINCIPIBUS . ARCADIO 1:T . HONOKIO . VICTORIIlUy . AC . TRIUMPHATORinUS . SEMPER . AVGG. Oli . KNSTAUHATOS . VRBI . AETERNAE , MUROS. PORTAS . AC . Tl'RRES . EGEST18 . IMMENSIS . RlDERIBrS . EX. .SVGGESTIONE . V , C. ET . INLUSTRIS . COMITIS . ET . MAGISTRI . VTRIVSQ . .MILITIAE . JL. STILICONMS . AD . PERPETVITATEM . NOJUNIS . EORVM. SIMVLACRA . CONSTITVIT CVUANTK . FI. . MACKOBIO . LONCilMA.NO . V. C . PRAEF . VRB . I) . N. JI . q . K0RV.'\1. t TI . CI-AVniVS . DltVZI . F. CAISAR . AVGVSTV8 . GERM AMCVS . PONTIF. MAXIM TRIRVNICIA . POTESTATK, XII . CO.S .V . IMPER.VTUR . XXVIl. PATER PATR1.1-; 96 REGION V. On the middle part, corresponding to the channel, (of the Acqua Claudia,) exists, engraved in three lines, an inscription of Vespasian, denoting the re-establishment of the said waters.* And, on the inferior part of it, contained in four lines, is the inscription of Titus relat- ing to the same object.-f- The continuation of this aqueduct is traced by the ruins that remain on each side. On the right, the Neronian arches branch off and follow on to the Celian near the church of S. Giovanni e Paolo, where the temple of Claudius stood, near which, according to Frontinus, the arches of this branch terminated. A part of the arches of the above-named aqueduct serves to support the channel of the Acqua Alessandrina, named Felice, which is conveyed on a level below the Claudian water ; and for this reason the channel was cut through the mass of building sus- AQVAS . CLAVDIVM . EX . FONTIBUS . QVI . VOCABANTVR . CAERVLEVS. ET . CVRTIVS . A . MILLIARIO . XXXXV ITEM . ANIENEM . NOVAM . A . MILLIAR . LXII . SVA . IMPENSA IN VERBEM . PEKDVCENDAS . CVRAVIT. * IMP . C^SAR . VESPASIANUS . AVGVST . PONTIF . MAX . TRIE. COS . II . IMP . VI . COS . Ill . DESIG .P.P. AQVAS . CVRTIAM . ET . CAERVLEAM . RERDVCTAS . A . DIVO CLAVDIO . ET . FOSTEA . INTERMISSAS . DILAPSASQVE RER . ANNOS . NOVEM . SVV . IMPENSA . VRBI . BESTITVIT. + IMP . T . CAESAR . DIVI . F . VESPASIANUS . AVGVSTVS . PONTIFEX. MAXIMVS . TRIBVNIC. POTESTATE . X . IMPERATOR . XVII .PATER . PATRIAE . CENSOR .COS.VIII AQVAS . CVRTIAM . ET CAERVLEAM . PERDVCTAS . A . DIVO . CLAVDIO . ET . POSTEA A DIVO . VESPASIANO . PATRE . SVG . VRBI . RESTITVTAS . CVM . A. CAPITE . AQVARVM . A . SOLO . VESTVSTATE . DILAPSAE . ESSENT NOVA . FORMA . REDVCENDAS . SVA . IMPEVSA . CVRAVIT. THE ESQUILINE. 97 tained by the said arches to the injury of the whole monument. Tomh of Marcus Virgilius Eurysaces. In the de- molition, in 1838, of the buttresses that were built at the back of the monument of the Claudian and Anio novus aqueducts, when included in the walls of Aurelian, of Avhich they formed part, and also subsequently, when the "Walls and gates were restored under Arcadius and Honorius, there was casually found within the tower, rebuilt in posterior times by the above-named restorers, and situated between the Praenestine and Labicana gates, a singular sepulchral monument which, by the following inscriptions existing on three of its sides partly preserved, is proved to have been the tomb of Marcus Virgilius Eurysaces, a baker, contractor of the appari- tori (official servants of the state). On the side turned towards the aqueduct whicli has remained entire, the whole inscription is preserved EST. HOC. MONIMENTVM. MARCEI. VIRGILEI. EVRYSACIS PISTOIUS . REDEMPT0RI3 . APPARET. On the south side that extended along the Via Labi- cana, there remains the truncated inscription at the end of the ruined part of the monument, nor could it have been originally completed for want of space EST . HOC . MONIMENTVM . MARCI . VIRGILI . EVRYSAC On the north side of the above-mentioned ruined part, it is broken at the beginning, and even not finished at the end of the monument, viz. : .... .M. MAUCF.I . VIRGILEI . EVRYSACIS . PISTORIS . REDEMPTORIS . APPARET There have been great discussions on the meaning of F 98 REGION V. the word apparet, but, considering that tlie inscription could not be properly supported by two verbs, it was necessary to recognize in this letter an abbreviation of apparetorum for apparitorum, and thus it was ex- plained that this was the monument of Marcus Virgilius Eurysaces, a baker, and contractor of the persons who, by decree of the senate, were expressly granted to the inspectors of the waters when they left Rome to inspect the aqueducts, which were all situated in this part of the town ; and, as these persons thus employed must have been supplied with food at the expense of the public treasury, they found, on going out of Rome, the oven of the contractor, who furnished them bread ; of this oven, traces have been found near the said tomb. It may be supposed that the entire inscription, on the principal front of the said tomb, which is now completely destroyed, was EST . HOC . MONIMENTVM . MARCI . VIRGILI . EURYSACIS PISTORIS . REDE.MPTORIS . APPARETORUM.* On the same front of the monument must have existed the other inscription, found amongst fragments belong- ing to its architectural parts ; and in particular a bas- relief, on which are sculptured the figure of a man, and another of a Avoman, supposed to represent the said Eurysaces, with Atistia, his wife, as is stated in the said inscription. "f- On the frcize also that crowns the monument, the said * Tliis is the tomb of Marcus Virgilius Eurysaces, the baker, contractor for tlie pursuivants of tlie prtetors. t FVIT , ATISTIA . VXOIl . MIIIEI FEMINA . OPITLMA . VEIXSIT THE ESQUILINE. 99 bas-relief represents the grinding of corn, the flour paste, and the baking of bread, with the weight and sale of the same. Temple called Speranza Vecchta (Ancient Hope). It being stated five times by Frontinus that several aqueducts imited at the palace called Spes Vetus, it has been ascertained that this spot must have been identical with the internal space situated before the above-named Claudian and Anio Vetus aqueducts ; and this is principally determined by the indication Fron- tinus gives of the place where the Neronian arches were detached from the said aqueduct, which occurred near the Spes Vetus, since, exactly at this place, it is known by the many ruins still existing, the sepa- ration took place. This place was so called from a temple dedicated to Hope, and to distinguish it from one subsequently built, it was named Spes Vetus, whilst, in the Regionaries"* catalogues of the seventh re- gion, the Temple Novum Spes is registered. This more ancient Temple of Hope must have been the same one near which the Consul Horatius gave battle to the Veienti in the year of Rome 277, as is attested by Dionysius, and the place where this battle took place was fixed by Dionysius at a distance of eight stadii from the city. In fact, measuring the distance between QVOIVS . CORPORIS . RKLIQVIAK yVOD . SVI'ERANT . SVNT . IN HOC . I'ANARIO. This monnincnt is surprisingly perfect, and is one of the most interesting in lionie. Canina's explanation jirovcs pAirysaccs was not a mere baker, as commonly said in the guide-hooks. He was, no douht, a wealthy contractor of the state. W. 100 REGION V. the spot, near the arch of Gallienus where the Esquiline gate must have stood at the southern extremity of the mound of Servius then the limits of the city, and the spot where the above-named large monument subsists, it will be found with little diversity to agree with the above-stated measure. From these indications, supplied by Frontinus, it is further known that near the same Spes Vetus, where the Torquatiand Pallanziani gardens, that, with little variation of names, were registered in the Regionaries^ catalogues, and must have been situated towards the part that reached to the aqueducts of the Appian, Julian, Tepulan, and Marcian waters, where we have also indicated the site of the Licinian gardens, near the building now called Minerva Medica ; while to the opposite side of the place, named Spes Vetus, is assigned the site of the Variani gardens, extending to the vicinity of the Castrense amphitheatre, and to the circus formed in the adjoining valley, as stated by Lampridius in the life of Heliogabalus, who says that races took place in these gardens. The above locality Avas also famous for a large enclosure or viva- rium, said to have been built to keep the wild beasts reserved for the spectacles exhibited in the amphi- theatres ; since it is clearly stated by Procopius that the place of custody, called by the Romans a Vivarium, was situated under the city walls, and he adds that it was near the Pranestine gate. From these indica- tions it may thus be determined that this Vivarium was situated in the long level area that extended to the Via Labicana, and to the walls of the city out of the above-named Prcenestine gate. THE ESQUILINE. 101 Aqueduct of the Marcian, Tepulan, and Julian Waters. At this spot the aqueducts of various other waters seem to have met, since beside the above de- scribed monument of the Claudian and Anio Novus aqueducts,* there exist the remains of three different channels, placed one over the other, on the same aque- duct. Of these three channels the lowest is known to have belonged to the Marcian water, the middle one to the Tepulan, and the upper one to the Julian, as they * Solomon erected an aqueduct, it is said, for conveying water from the fountains near Bethlehem to Jerusalem. But it was in Rome the system of aqueducts reached perfection ; they were brought thirty, forty, and sixty miles from the city, in one con- tinued covered channel of stone, carried by arcades over the widest valleys, and by tunnels running througli mountains. Pliny writes, " If we consider attentively the quantities of water brought into the city for the use of the public, for baths, for fisli- ponds, for private houses, for artificial lakes, for gardens in the neighbourhood of the city, and for villas, if we look also at the works which have been constructed for forming a regular channel for the waters arches raised up, mountains pierced with tunnels, and valleys filled up to a level it must be acknowledged that there is nothing in the whole world more wonderful." For 400 years after Rome was built, the Romans were content to drink the waters of the Tiber. Population increased, and the censor Appius Claudius was the first who made an aqueduct to convey the waters of distant springs into the city. About thirty- nine years after, M. Curius Dentatus brought in an additional supjily from Til)ur. These examples were followed by Papirius, Crassus, Agrippa, Marcius, and several of the emperors to Cara- calla. The curator of tlie aqueducts was an important officer, and Frontinus, curator in the reign of Nerva, has left an account of them. In his time there were twenty aqueducts, the most remarkable being the Aqua Appia, the old and new Anio, the Aqua Martia, which conveyed also the A]>lication of a classical quota- tion. The length commonly assigned to the Foro llunnmo is from COO to (J30 feet ; breadth varying from ISO to 110 ; its shape was oblong ; these dimensions may not be exact ; however, it is certain its s])ace was confined within narrow limits. The notions of Nibby, also those in Burgess's "Rome," in reference to the site and boundaries of tiic Forum, arc (juite ex]>loded by the modern dis- coveries and the researches of Niebuhr, Bunsen and Canina. W . II 2 148 ROMAN FORUM. the Curia Hostilia,* originally built by Tullus Hostilius, as stated by Varro, and in particular by Livy, and which Sylla undertook to rebuild at the eastern ex- tremity of the Comitium, where the statues of Pytha- goras and Alcibiades were erected, which, on this occa- sion, were removed from this spot, as attested by Pliny. From these notices it is chiefly proved that this Curia, in its reconstruction was removed from near the north angle of the Palatine, where it first stood on many steps (as shewn by Livy in the narration of the death of Servius Tullius), to the eastern extremity of the Comitium, where it extended near to the Ruminal fig- tree,-|* and to the statue of Actius ^ placed on the steps of the Comitium, as is stated by Festus in the explanation of the word Ruminalis. This Curia having been destroyed by fire when the dead body of Clodius was burnt, was, after various vicissitudes, subsequently rebuilt by Augustus, who previously added to it the Temple of Minerva, and the one called Chalcidicum, as proved from what is stated by Dion, and by the celebrated Ancyrana inscription, in which is registered amongst the works executed by Augustus : CURIAM . ET . CONTINENS . EI . CHALCIDICUM . From this, and from other important facts, it is * " Coelius adJitur urbi mons ; ct, quo frequentius haLitaretur, earn sedcm Tullus regifc capit, ibique habitavit. Principcs Al- banorum in patres, ut ea quoque pars rci-publicse crcscerct, legit Tiillios, Servilios. Quinctios, Geganios, Curiatios, Cl.x'lios : tem- plumquc ordini ab se aucto curiam fecit, quae Hostilia usque ad patruin nostroruiii setatoin adpellata est." Livy, i. :50. W. f The tree under which the ^volf gave suck to Romulus and Rcmu?. W. X Attus Nevius, or Actius Noevius was the Augur who cleverly severed a whetstone with a razor, as narrated by Livy., i. 36. ROMAN. FORUM. 149 clearly proved that to the said edifice, viz., Curia Julia, belonged the three beautiful Corinthian columns now standing in the middle of the spot commonly called the Campo Vaccino, which is situated above the area occu- pied by the Roman Forum, and, in fact, it is only to the place Avhcre the above-named columns exist that the descriptions can be applied which refer to the Curia Julia.* Rostra Julii. Before the said Curia stood those Rostra, according to the authority of Varro, that were named Julian, from having been transferred by Csesar from the middle of the Forum, where they first stood, to the spot indicated before the Curia, as is stated by Dion in relating the things done by Coesar. These Rostra were different from those more ancient ones that stood before the Temple of Concord under the Capitol, and which have been lately discovered, as will be observed hereafter ; while those Avere more commonly called sim- ply Rostra the latter, to distinguish them, were named Rostra Julii. Comitium.-f Beside the Curia, adjoining it on the * It will be observed Canina affirms tbat the tbree Corinthian pillars standing in the midst of what is now termed the Canipo Vaecino, belonged to the Curia Giulia. These pillars are fluted, nearly thirty feet in height, supporting a rich entablature, the whole being of the most admirable workmanshi]). These precious remains of the best style of Roman architectme, are ascribed some- times to the temple of Minerva Chalcidica, the Gr;ecostasis, &c. See Murray's " Compilation," p. '254. Our antiquary, without any hesitation, ascribes these beautiful ]iillars to the Curia Giulia, and the most learned modern critics agree with him. W. t The Comitium, originally signifving a place of meeting, was only a part of the lionum Forum, which was used for the celebra- 150 ROMAN FORUM. right side, stood the Comitium. This place that was used to hold the Comitia Curiata, until reduced to a building, was distinguished from the Forum, perhaps only by the elevation of its soil^ but afterwards, when in the year in which Hannibal came to Italy it was covered, it must have been surrounded with columns and walls, and decorated with other ornaments. But its area was subsequently, in a great part, occupied by the above-named Curia Julia, and by the Basilica, also called Julia, which will be described in the sequel ; and some other edifices were also erected in the same area when the Comitia were held in another place. There, however, always remained an area, somewhat long and narrow, extending to the south side of the Forum ; and this area was raised above the soil of the Forum by steps, called for this reason the steps of the Comitium, some trace of which in front of the Julia Basilica has been lately found. Gracostasis. On the right of the Curia, beyond the Comitium, and in an elevated spot, stood, according to Varro, the Grsecostasis, in which the ambassadors of tion of the Comitia, or general assemblies of the Roman people convened by the different magistrates. These Comitia were of three sorts, Curiata, Centuriata, and Tributa, according to the three grand divisions of the city and people into Curias, Centuria, and Tribes. The Comitia were also named " calata," from calare, to call. The following passage shews it was long without a roof : " Eg anno primum, ex quo Hannibal in Italiam vcnissot, comitium tectum esse, memoriae proditum est, et ludos Romanos semel in- stauratos ab aedilibus curulibus," &c. Livy, xxvii. 30. Plutarch tells us that the plain where the Romans met the Sa- bines, for the purpose of deciding upon the terms of a treaty was called Comitium. W. ROMAN FORUM. 151 foreign nations were received. In the localities in which this edifice must have existed, towards the south side of the three remaining columns of the Curia Julia, there no longer exist any remains that can be attributed to the said edifice. From the indications, however, we have of its use, it must be supposed to liave been formed of a single hall somewhat raised above the ground, as notified by Varro. In the fragment of the ancient plan of Rome, marked xlvi., some letters are en- graved which are known to have belonged to the name of the said edifice ; but there remains no indication of its form, as the part of the foundations there marked belongs to the Curia Julia above described. Arch of Fahius. At the foot of the eastern side of the Comitium is generally placed the arch of Fabius, which must have stood at the opening of the Via Sacra into the Forum, where on each side were two of the arches called Jani. Temple of Castor and Pollux. On the other side of the Curia Julia may be placed, according to the indi- cation given by Cicero, the Temple of Castor and Pol- lux. This temple must also have been placed very near, and almost adjoining that part of the palace that was prolonged to the Forum by Caligula, since this em- peror transformed it into a vestibule of his house,* * Tliis subject is alluded to by Suetonius in the following words " Datoque ncgotio, ut simulacra luiminuni, religione ct arte j>ra>cliira, inter quse Olympici Jovis, ap])ortarcntur e Grrecia, quibus ca])ite denito suuin iniponeret, partem palatii ad Forum usque prornovit, atque sede Castoris et Pollucis in vestibulum tran^Hgurata, consistens s;vpe inter fratros Deos medium se adoran- duin adeuntibus cxliibebat," dsic. In Vita Caligiilii;, 22. It is 152 ROMAN FORUM. that was placed on this side of the Palatine. On the side also of this edifice must have been the pond, or spring of Juturna, as the temple was originally built there. Of this edifice there no longer exist any remains, but its whole form is well known by what is marked in the fragment of the ancient plan of Rome under xlv., which also contains a part of the contiguous Julian Basilica. Temple, of C- tified by the inscription engraved on the face of its * The following inscription is given by Grutcro : SALVIS. UO.MINIS . NOSTRIS . HONORIO , ET .THEODOSIO . VICTORIOSISSIMIS . TRINCIBUS . SECRETARIVM . AJIPLIsSIMI . SENATVS . QVOD . VIR . INLUSTRIS . FI.AVIANUS . INSTITVERAT . ET . KATALIS . IGNIS. ABSUMPSIT . FLAVIVS . ANNIVS . EVCHARIUS. EPIFAMUS . V . C . I'RAEF . VICE . SACRA . IVD . REPARAVIT . ET . A D . I'RISTINAM . FACIM . HEDUXIT . CaMNA. 166 ROMAN FORUM. pedestal. At the foot of this column towards the west, three other pedestals of brick construction have been found, which must have sustained other lionorary columns, of which there still exist some remains, broken, and lying on the ground. On the side opposite to the column of Phocas, and evidently in the direction of the Via Sacra, which opened into the Forum at the Fabian Arch, stood the four fronted arches called Jani, which, to the number of two, are registered in the catalogue of Victor, but nothing more can be determined with pre- cision respecting these monuments, or many others that were erected in the midst of the Forum. Thus leaving the Roman Forum, we will proceed to the examination of those that were subsequently added. Forum of Ccesar. By the increase of the Roman empire, the space occupied by the Roman Forum not being sufficient to contain the great number of persons who resorted to it, another adjoining Forum Avas added to it by Ccesar when he erected a temple to Venus Genitrix, from the vow he made before the battle of Pharsalia, and raised an enclosure around the temple in the form of a Forum, Avhich he destined not to the sale of merchandize, but to law-suits or to treat of business. Topographers agree in supposing this Forum to have been situated on the eastern side of the Roman Forum, and behind the churches of S. Martina and S. Adrian. On this side of the great Forum was placed the Basilica rebuilt bv Paulus, so it evidently served, from its situa- tion, for one and the other Forum, and rendered the communication free between them. The Temple of Venus, placed by Ctesar in tlie centre of his Forum, ROMAN FORUM. 169 appears to me to be the one discovered at the time of Palladio, in laying the foundations of some houses situ- ated between the three columns existing near the Arco dei Pantani ; and the spot where the statue of Marforio stood, of which this architect added the designs at the end of his book of antiquities, calling it also the Temple of Neptune, merely from having found some figures of Tritons sculptured on the fragments of the cornice. But these ornaments, being equally adapted to Venus, give greater weight to my opinion, for I am not aware that any Temple of Neptune was raised on that spot. Besides, the proportions of this temple, retraced by Palladio, seem to conform precisely to those of the temples invented by Vitruvius, of which this Temple of Venus was cited as an example by that writer. Before the Temple of Venus stood the image of Caesar's horse,* placed there by himself. Although I have made many researches to discover traces of this temple in the subterranean parts of the houses situated at this place, I have not succeeded in finding any what- ever, and it may therefore be supposed that all that Avas then found of this edifice was totally destroyed in build- ing the houses over it. * " Utebatur autem cquo insigni, pcdibus propc humanis, et in moduui (ligitoriiin ungulis fissis : quem natum apuJ se, cum harus})iccs iin])eriura orbis terrse significarc domino pronuntiasscnt, magna cura aluit : ncc paticntcm sessoris altcrius primus as- cendit : cnjiis etiam instar t pro sedc Veneris gcnitricis postea dedicavit." Suetonius in Cassare. t I. c, cffigkm consimikm ipsi cquo Ceesaris magnitudinc parcm. W. tl68 ROMAN FORUM. Forum of Augustus.* Suetonius relates that Au- gustus, considering that with the increase of inhabitants law-suits had increased, and that the two fort above- named, dedicated to these purposes, were not sufficient for all these affiiirs, built another Forum, in which he raised a temple dedicated to the Avenging Mars, and ordered, even before the temple was completed, that the judges should hold their sittings in it. The author further observed that Augustus, in order not to destroy, or to take %way from the owners the houses that were near to it, made the Forum of a smaller size than was customary. I have thought it proper to follow the opi- nion of Palladio, and of other modern writers lately confirmed in recognizing, as remains of this Forum and of the Temple of Mars, the three large Corinthian co- lumns with the ancient walls that exist at the place called "Arco dc' Pantani," principally because these remains could not form one sole enclosure with those that arc known to have belonged to the Forum of Ncrva. To the walls that enclosed this Forum, which are known to have been disposed in a semicircular form on the two sides, were attached the porticoes in which Augustus placed the statues of those captains who, by their talents and achievements, had rendered the Roman empire so * " Publica opera plurima cxstruxit : ex quibus vol pra}ci])ua, Forum cum sede Martis Ultoris, tcmplum Apolliuis in Palatio, sedem Tonantis Jovis in Capitolio, Fori cxstrucndi causa fuit, hominum et judiciorum multitudo, quse vidcbatur, non sufficien- tibus duobus, etiam tertio indigere, Itaquc fcstiiiantius necduin perfccta Martis rede, publicatum est cautumquc ut separatim in to publica judicia, et sortitioncs Judicuni liercnt." Slktonrs in Augusta, 29. ROMAN FORUM. 169 great. A portion of one of these curvilinear porticoes is marked in the small fragment of the ancient plan of Rome, known to have belonged to the adjoining Forum of Nerva, of which mention is made in the fourth region. It appears that the irregularity observed in the external part of the wall that enclosed this Forum, was produced by the situation of the houses which Augustus would not pull down. Forum of Trajan. Trajan far surpassed Csesar and Augustus in the formation of another Forum near those above described ; and many ancient writers have ex- tolled the grandeur and magnificence displayed by this emperor in building his Forum, under the direction of the celebrated architect Apollodorus. From the many excavations undertaken since the first years of this cen- tury, on the site formerly occupied by this Forum, there remains no further doubt as to its precise position, but some parts of the structure are still concealed by the modern buildings situated about it ; yet every small dis- covery made has presented signs of great magnificence. Basilica Ulpia. The principal edifice that existed in this Forum was certainly the great Basilica that Tra- jan raised on its northern side, called Ulpia, from his own name. The plan of the middle part of this Basilica is now entirely uncovered, and the few remains that exist bear witness to its ancient grandeur. In the first instance, respecting this Basilica, it is indispensable to observe, that for many reasons, I have thought it proper to recognize in the fragment of the ancient plan of Rome, XXIV, supposed to have belonged to the Basilica Emilia, a rc])rcsentation of the Ulpian Basilica with I no ROMAN FORUM. some buildings that were contiguous to it. This varia- tion I adopted, from seeing in the designs of Fulvio which are in the Vatican library, that to the larger fragment is not united the smaller one, on which are en- graved merely the words aemili, no. xxi ; wherefore it is evident their conjunction was made afterwards, probably by Bellerio, and was consolidated when the fragment was renewed almost entirely : also, from hav- ing ascertained, that on another fragment on which the word Ulpia is written, with an indication of the posi- tion of several columns, the letters are of the same size as those of the word basilica on the larger stone. Besides, the distances of the columns, and the breadth of the middle nave which is designed in the two frag- ments last noticed agree. Thus it appears that the second fragment, with the indication of Ulpia, must be united to the large one, having the word basilica ; and that the other stone, on which is written simply AEMILI, has been erroneously supposed to have be- longed to the larger fragment : the more so, as the Basilica to which it is wished to attribute it, was generally known to the ancients more by the name of Paulus than by that of Emilius. And I also ob- served that the larger stone clearly indicates the plan of the Ulpian Basilica, which is known by the existing ruins to have formed with the Forum, with one of the libraries, and with the buildings behind, the apsis of which the remains exist at the foot of tlie Quirinal. I still further observe, that the word lider- TATis, cut on the larger stone at the foot of the apsis which it has been wished to attribute to the atrium of Liberty mentioned by Cicero in speaking of the Basi- ROMAN FORUM. J 71 lica of Paulus, must evidently be referred to the manu- mission of slaves, or to the ceremonies performed in giving them liberty, which are proved by the verses of Sidonius Apollinaris to have taken place in this very Basilica.* In fact, the apsis-f- designed on the mar- ble has not in the least the form of an atrium, nor is it seen to be an edifice separated from the Basilica ; but, on the contrary, the calcidica, or tribune of the Basilica itself. On the other hand, in examining well the above-mentioned passage of Cicero, it will be found not to be very clear, because we have no knowledge of any other atrium of Liberty than the one situated on the Aventine. The Basilica had entrances on its south side turned towards the Forum ; but there seems also to have been an entrance by the street that communicated from the Roman Forum with the Campus Martius, and this entrance is probably the one represented on the medals of Trajan relative to this Basilica. Bibliotheca Ulpia. Along the north side of the said Basilica stood the celebrated Ulpian Library, in which were especially preserved the books of the annals and of the deliberations of the senate. This library is known by the discoveries that have been made, to have formed two divisions when the great spiral column was erected in the middle, as has been observed in the late excava- " Nam inodo nos jam festa vacant, et ad Ulpia poscunt Te fora donabis quos libcrtate Quirites, Quorum gaudcntcs exceptant vcrbcra malai, (SiDOMUs Apollinaris, Epigramma). C. + The aj)sis in ancient cburclies was supposed to liave been so called because covered with an aich of its own. It stood opposed to tlie nave of the church, and was applied to the bishop's seat, being called extdra, and in latter times tribune. W. I 2 172 ROMAN FORUM. tions which were made in a great part of the area that surrounded this edifice. The Trajan Column. The celebrated Trajan co- lumn, around which arc represented in the finest style of art the principal deeds of the Dacian war under Trajan, was raised by the Roman senate and people to serve as a sepulchral monument to this emperor, and at the same time to shew the extent of labour that was employed in re- ducing to a level plain the spot Avhere it stood, as proved both by the inscription engraved on the pedestal, and by Dion in describing the works of Trajan. It is known from the circumstance recorded in the inscription,* that on this site there extended some branch of the Quirinal, which in part united this hill with the Capitol, Temple of Trajan. The temple consecrated by Hadrian to Trajan, as related by Spartianus, is generally admitted to have stood opposite the spiral column on the north side, first, from being registered in the cata- logue of Victor, together with the said column, and secondly from its being proved by Aulus Gellius that the library, situated here, was so called from the Temple of Trajan ; and, in fact, near this site has been found the fragment of a large granite column, now in the interior of the spiral column, which is supposed to have belonged to this temple. Besides, Winckelmann states that in his time, several other pieces of similar columns were found in making a new entrance to the adjoining * SENATVS . rorVLVSQVE . HO.MANIP. IMP . CAESAKI . DIVI . NERVAE . F NEKVAE. TRAIANO . AVG . GEHM . DACKO . PONTIF. MAXIMO . TIUB. POT. XVII. IMP . VI. COSS. VI. P. P. AD. DECLARAXDVM . QVANTAE . ALTITUDIMS MONS . ET . LOCVS . TANTIS . OPEUIBVS . SIT . EGE.STVS. ROMAN FOKUM. 173 Imperial Palace, with the fragment of a cornice, now in the Villa Albani. Around the pronaus of the temple was disposed a portico, in the manner of an atrium, as known by a medal of Trajan representing the facade of this his temple, and from the indications of columns marked on the side of the library, in the marbles of the ancient plan of Rome. In the middle of this atrium, I think it proper to place the great equestrian statue of Trajan which is registered in the catalogue of Victor together with the said temple, since Ammianus !Marcel- linus, in mentioning the admiration the sight of this statue created in the Emperor Constantius, states, that it was situated exactly in the middle of the atrium. In the cellar of a house existing on the spot corre- sponding to the precise centre of the spiral column, were known to have existed the remains of a wall, built with square stones, which appeared, by its situ- ation, could not have belonged to any other building than to the base that must have sustained the large equestrian statue above described ; but, on removing the earth, in latter years, to build the new house an- nexed to the Imperial Palace, the whole mass was found that served as a support to the large steps that led to the pronaus of the temple, which has aiTordcd means to determine, with greater precision, the situation of this edifice and of the equestrian statue. OlherhuHditii^s of the Trajan Forum* The Trajan * Various inscrijitions were found auiouust the rcnmius of tliis Fomin, amouprst wliicli is to be observeil that (liscovcicd before the principal entrance of the basilica Ul])ia, whicli demonstrates a dedication made l)y the senate and Jiomau jieople to the Kmperor Trajan ; 174 ROMAN FORUM. Forum, properly so called, was situated at the southern side of the Ulpian Basilica, and occupied, in breadth, all the space lying between the Quirinal and the Capitol, and, in length, evidently reached to near the north side of the Forum of Augustus. To support the earth of the two hills in this position, Trajan made two great substruction works, disposed internally as a semi- circle, which served, at the same time, as an ornament to his Forum. Of the one built under the Quirinal there exist some splendid remains, commonly known by the name of Baths of Paulus Emilius, and this building is composed, on the lower story, opened only of late years, of large quadrangular niches, which pro- bably served as shops, and on the upper story, of an arched portico, surrounded by several rooms and halls that communicated with the two stories. Although it is supposed by Piranesi, and by the other antiquarians who followed his opinion, that a similar building ex- isted towards the Capitol, I think, however, that I have been the first to recognize as remains of this work the ancient walls existing under several houses at the spot s . p . Q . n. IMP . CAESARI . DIVI. NERV.T-, . F . NERV/E. TUAIANO . AVGVSTO PONTIF . MAX .TRIBVMCIA POTEST . XVI . IMP . VI . COS . VI . P . P. OPTIME. DE. nEPVULICA MERITO . DOMI FORISQVE. The statues of illustrious men, erected in thi.^ Ulpian Fonnn were generally made of bronze gilt, as appears froin the inscrij)- tion on the statue of Flavins Eugcnius, in these words : STATVAM , SUB . AURO . IN FORI . DIVI .TRAIAM. This statue is in the Vatican j\Iuseuni. C. ROMAN FORUM. 175 now called the Chiavi d'Oro, which I found to have followed, on one side, the curve of the semicircle extending towards the Forum, and on the other the modern Via Marforio, which preserves the direction of the ancient Via Mamertina, so called from the ad- joining prisons, or Argentaria, from the Basilica of that name. To ascertain the resemblance of this building with the one situated towards the Quirinal, I diligently compared the preparations of the constructions and cor- nices in brickwork, which I found to be the same in both edifices, and which, after an accurate measurement, I ascertained to have been situated on the same level. As it did not appear to me that the architecture of the two said semicircular works could coiTcspond to that of the two other sides of the Forum, both by the style and mode of construction, I thought it proper to suppose that these two buildings did not appear in the principal part of the Forum, but that in front there were two porticoes, disposed in a manner that, while they circumscribed the middle part of the forum, they also gave it a suitable rectangular form, as is indi- cated by the two lines of columns which, in the marbles of the ancient plan of Rome, are designed perpendi- cularly to the south side of the Ulpian IJasilica. In this manner the Forum was divided into three parts by the said porticoes ; and this distribution M'as probably made in order to establish distinct places for the different spe- cies of affairs treated in each. In the middle of the side of the Forum, opposite the Basilica, must have stood the triumphal arch erected to Trajan, which evidently formed the i)rinci})al entrance to the Forum; and, in fact, towards 176 ROMAN FORUM. that part, it is stated by Flaminius Vacca, in his well- known memoirs, that, in his time, several vestiges of such a monument were found, having bas-reliefs, amongst which appeared the figure of Trajan, and some figures of slaves, similar to those of the Arch of Constantine. Behind the eastern semicircle of the Forum, there also exist many remains of a large building distributed into several stories, according to the declivity of the hill, on which are, in a great part, built the Ceva Palace and the monastery of S. Caterina da Siena. From having lately examined these ruins, in the company of some learned men, and made exact designs of them, (which I shall elsewhere reproduce on a large scale,) together with the Forum, we found, in the pavement of an ancient corridor, situated under the Ceva Palace, other large tiles, with the stamp of Catullus and of Plotina, the wife of Trajan, already discovered and published by the Avvo- cato Fea, by whicli it was further confirmed that this edifice Avas built at about the same epoch as the Forum. It was probably destined, at its origin, for the use of the guards and other persons devoted to the service of the Forum, as proved by the disposition preserved in the ruins existing in the monastery of S. Caterina. But, subsequently, it was evidently ap- plied to another use, and, perhaps, in some parts, to the baths of a certain Paulus, not the above-named Emilias, who built the two Basilicas situated in the Roman Forum, but another Paulus, posterior to Trajan, who gave his name to the baths registered by the Regionaries in the sixth region, since this locality be- longed, on one side, to the said reijion. ROMAN FORUM. 177 Basilica Argentaria. The Basilica Argentaria, re- gistered in the catalogues of this region by Victor and tlie Notitia, seems to have stood on the south side of Trajan's Forum, or towards the street, now called Mar- forio, as this street, in very ancient times, bore the same name as this Basilica ; since in this position there still exist remarkable remains of chambers or shops, built of square stones, it seems probable that they be- longed to this Basilica, and that they were occupied by the silversmiths. Forum Boarium. Passing on to consider the spot situated on the western side of the Roman Forum towards the Tiber, called by the ancients the Velabrum,* from its being traversed in boats, in the early times of Rome, when it was still covered with water; the posi- tion of the Forum Boarium can be determined with some certainty by a few monuments that were situated in the said Forum, and that are well preserved. This Forum was so called from an image of a bronze bull * Vclabniin a velis, quod in frcquentibus Tiberis exunda- tionibus illic essct, velatura, i. e., trajectus in forum. From its ])osition near the Tiber, the Velabrum is peculiarly liable to inundations. I may remind the classical reader of the lines of Ovid : " Hoc, ubi nunc fora sunt, udfc tenuere paludes ; Anmc redundanti fossa madcbat aqua. Curtins ille lacus, siccas qui sustinet aras, Nunc solida est tcUus, sed laeus ante fuit. Qua Velabra solent in circum ducere pompas ; Nil praiter salices crassaque caima fuit." The Velabrum, in ancient Rome, was inhabited chiefly by oil- men, of whom it is recorded that they never used to under-sell (me another. W. I 5 178 ROMAN FORUM. placed there, and was on the road that led from the Roman Forum to the Circus Maximus, passing through the Vicus Tuscus and the Velabrum, properly so called. Arch of Septimius Severus. The small arch dedi- cated to the Emperor Septimius Severus, to Julia, his wife, and to their son Caracalla, by the silversmiths and other merchants of the Forum Boarium, as proved by the following inscription carved on its front, exists, in great part preserved, at this spot, and was evidently situated at the point of junction of some of the ancient streets that met in the said Forum.* Arcus Quadrifrons. Another arch, of much larger size than the one above-mentioned, but of a different form, still exists, in a great part preserved, at the site for- merly occupied by the Forum Boarium. This arch, from being composed of four equal fronts, was commonly called that of Janus, and considered sacred to that di- vinity ; but it may, with greater certainty, be recog- nized as one of the arches, also called Jani, which served as a shelter and convenience to the merchants in the Forum, and was probably one of those numerous arches * IMP . CAES . L . SEPTIMIO . SEVERO . PIO . PERTIN'ACI . AUG . ARABIC. ADIABENIC . PARTHIC . MAX .FORTISSIMO . FELICIbSIMO PONTIF . MAX .TRIB .POTEST . XII. IMP . XI . COS . Ill . P ATRI . PATRIX . ET IMP . CAES . M . AURELIO . ANTONINO . PIO . FELICI . AVG . TRIB. POTEST . VII . COS . Ill . P . P . PROCOS . FORTISSIMO FELICISSIMOQUE . PRINCIPI . ET JULIAE . AVG . MATRI .AVG . N. ET . CASTRORUM. ET . SENATUS . ET PATRIAE . ET . IMP . CAES . M . AVRELII , ANTGXINI . PII . FELICIS . AUC. PARTHICI . MAXIMI . BRITTAMCI . MAXIMI . ARGENTARII ET .NEGOTI ANTES . BOARII . HVJVS . I-OCI . QVI . INVEHENT . DEVOTI NVMINI . EOnUM. ROMAN FORUM. 179 which, according to Suetonius, were built by Domitian in different regions of the city. Temple of Maiuta. This temple, registered in this region by Victor, is generally placed at the spot now occupied by the church of S. Giorgio in VeJabro, which is situated in the Forum Boarium, though there are not sufficient reasons to prove it.* Temple of Fortune. On the side of the Temple of Matuta, that of Fortune is generally placed by anti- quaries. In front of each of these temples Livy states, that two arches were raised by Stertinius ; and it is only by this indication that the position of these temples has been chiefly determined. Temple of Hercules. -^ In the Forum Boarium there was also a temple of Hercules, and by what is registered in Victor, and mentioned in Livy, it must have been of a round form and small. Chapel of Modesty . From what is also mentioned by Livy, it is known that near to the temple of Hercules there existed a chapel dedicated to Modesty, which is equally registered in the catalogue of Victor. Temple of Carmenta. On the other side of tlic * Matuta was a deity among the Romans, the same as Leuco- tlioe among tlie Greeks. She was originally Ino, who was changed into a sea-deity. The name INIatuta (called also Aurora), matu- tino tempore, as jircsiding over that season. So Ovid " Numen oris pelagi : natum quoque pontus hahebit : In vestris aliud sumite nomeii aquis. Leucothoe Graiis, iMatuta vocabere nostris : In jiortui-; nato jus crit omne tuo." W. t " Insignem supplicationcm fecit certamen in sacello Pudici- tia; patricitv, (juaj in foro boario est ad (tdem rotundam Herculis inter matronas ortum,"' &.C. Livv, x. 23. W. 180 ROMAN FORUM. Velabruni, towards tlic Capitol, stood tlio Altar and Temple of Carnicnta, from which the Porta Carmentalis derived its name. It was comprised in the first enclo- sure of the city.* Cloaca Maxima. The Velabrum was traversed by the celebrated Cloaca Maxima, built with the greatest solidity by the Tarquins, of which a great part still re- mains ; that part near to the church of S. Giorgio in Vclabro, reaches to the Tiber. In 17-i2 was discovered, in the area formerly occupied by the Roman F'orum, another part of this Cloaca, built with the same solidity, which must have been near to the channel that received the waters of the said Forum. Equimdium. Following along the southern side of the Capitoline hill, where the Vicus Jugarius passed, the place is found on which was the public area originally occupied by the house of Spurius Melius, and destroyed after his death. Since Livy, in stating that the cen- sors, T. Quintius Flaminius and M. Claudius Mar- cell us, ordered the repair of some buildings above the Equimelium on the Capitol, clearly proves that it cor- responded to the foot of this side of the hill. Amongst the fragments of the ancient plan of Rome, there exists one marked xiii., containing an extensive area, with an altar in the middle, which may, Avith some proba- bility, be supposed to have belonged to this part of the region. The Capitol. From the part of the region placed at * Curmentalia was a feast detlicated to Evander's motlier, Carmi'iita or Canncntis ; or .so called from the Carinenta', kept on the 11th or 15th of January. ^\'. ROMAN FORUM. 181 tlie base, proceeding to consider the part situated at the top of the Capitol, it is proved by antiquaries that there were three ways that led to this hill, as indicated in a pas- sage of Tacitus, in which he mentions that the soldiers of Yitellius, wishing to take possession of the Capitol, first attempted to mount by the principal ascent, but not being able to enter on that side, in consequence of the gates being closed by Sabinus with the statues erected there in honour of the ancients, they passed by the as- cent of the wood of Asylum, and by the hundred steps of the Tarpeian rock. When, of late years, excavations were commenced under the Capitol, some traces of the first of the three ascents were found, commonly called the Clivus Capitolinus, by which the cars evidently ascended the hill. It seems that this way had two communica- tions with the Roman Forum, one beside the arch of Scptimius Severus, the other near to the Temple of Saturn, where the Arch of Tiberius stood. The ascent, called the Asylum, Avas towards the Mamcrtine prison, and commenced at the Arch of Septimius Severus. The third, called the hundred steps of the Tarpeian rock, is generally believed to have been made on the declivity of the hill towards the church of the Consolazionc. The entire hill was distinguished into three parts by the ancients. The Capitol, properly called, which was the north summit, on which stood the celebrated temple of Jupiter Capitolinus ; the fortress, or rock, situated on the southern summit, which it was customary to call the Tarpeian rock ; the intermediate space, comprised in the plain, that separates the two above-named elevations which, for this reason, was called the Intermontium. 182 ROMAN FORUM. Scuola Zanta. At the foot of the Capitoline ascent properly called, stood, as already shewn, the Temple of Saturn, to which must have belonged the eight Ionic co- lumns still remaining there, and which are commonly attributed to the Temple of Concord. It is now necessary to observe, that it is stated by Lucius Faunus that in his time, near to this temple, an edifice was discovered having the form of a portico, with three shops, which, by the inscriptions* found in it, are known to have con- stituted the Scuola Zanta registered in the Regionary catalogues. On the above-named spot, situated between the Temple of Saturn and that of Vespasian, the said shops have been cleared of earth of late years, and in- stead of three, there have been found five, but all stript of their ornaments. Portico of the xii Consenting Gods. Above these shops, and on the side turned towards the Clivus Capi- tolinus, a portico has been found formed on the front part by columns, and in the interior by small arched cells. On the frieze placed over the columns an inscrip- * The inscriptions found in the above-mentioned edifice are thus reported by Lucius Faunus :-- CAIVS . AVILIVS . LICIMVS . TROSIVS . CURATOR SCHOLAM . DE . SVO . FECIT BEBRyX . AVG . L . DRVSIANVS . A . FABIVS . XANTVS . CVR . SCRIBIS . LIBRABIIS . ET . PRAECOMBVS AED . CVR . SCIIOLAM AB . INCHOATO . REFECERVNT . MARBORIBVS . ORNAVERVNT . VICTORIAM AVGVSTAM . ET . SEDES . AENEAS . ET . CETERA . ORNAMENTA. On the frieze of the gate outside, which was of Doric work, was the annexed inscription : BEBRYX . AVG . L . DRVSIANVS .A , FAB , XANTHVS .CVR . IMAGINES ARGENTEAS . DEORVM . SEPTEM . POST . DEDICATIONEM . SCHOLAE ET . MVTVLOS . CVM . SVA . PECVNIA . DEDERV.NT. ROMAN FORUM. ' 183 tion has been found in fragments, stating that Vettius Agorius Pretestatus had placed or re-established the images of the Twelve Consenting Gods. As mention had already been made by Varro of the images of these gods that stood near to the Forum, it is probable that they were merely re-established by Vettius, since he was prefect of Rome in the year 367 of the present era. Temple of Jupiter Tonans. The temple built by Augustus, in consequence of the vow he made in Spain, for not having been struck by the lightning that killed one of his servants who was carrying him on a litter, being stated by all writers to have been situated on the Capitolinc,* it cannot be recognized in the three Corin- thian columns standing under this hill towards the Ro- man Forum, which are known by this denomination ; since, if the spot where these three columns exist could be comprised in the Capitoline hill, the Temple of Con- cord, which was adjacent to it, would also have been indicated in the Capitoline, whilst it has always been * Suetonius, in tlic life of Augustus, describing the vow made by tliat Etnjicror in Spain, demonstrates clearly this to have been the Temple of Tupiter Tonans intlie Capitol, "yJLdem Jovis Tonantis in Capitolio.^' Also in the " Anicranu'''' inscription, amongst the works of Au- gustus, the same temple is found registered with the other edifices of the Capitol, " ^Edes, in Capitotio, Jovis Feretrii, et Jovis To- 7ianfis.'^ Also in the well known almanac referred to by ]\[uratori, in his treasury of ancient inscriptions, is the following: " D. K. Sept. N. Jovi. Tonanti. in Copitolio.^' Nor does the description referred to in the catalogue of Vittor, " ^icdis Jovis ronantis uh Auguslo dcdicata in clivo Capitolino,^'' repel the opinion that this temple stood in the Capitol ; for, if it stood in the Capitol, it also stood on the hill of the Capitol. C. 184 ROMAN FORUM. placed in the Roman Forum. Besides, wc have already proved, that the three columns above-named belonged to the Temple of Vespasian, which, together with that of Concord, were situated behind the statue of Domitian, erected in the Forum. As it is known by Dion, and by Suetonius in particular, that the Temple of Jupiter Tonans was on the way that led to the great Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus, since Augustus wished that his edifice should serve as a kind of entrance to the Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus ; it may be decided that it was situated on the area that extends midway from the Clivus Capitolinus towards the Tarpeian rock, where there remain some ruins of a large edifice. To the por- tico that served as an enclosure of the said temple, must have belonged those Corinthian travertine columns, se- veral blocks of which have been found in the area lately excavated in front of the portico of the Twelve Dii Con- sentes, since these relics are better adapted to the archi- tecture of a portico than to any other fine edifice. Tahidarium. In the Intermontium there exist con- siderable remains of a large edifice, situated under the senatorial palace, which are commonly acknowledged to have belonged to the ancient Tabularium, in which were kept some parts of the tables relating to the public acts, as appears by an inscription found there. This edifice, in the part turned towards the Forum Roman um, and above the Temples of Jupiter Tonans and of Concord, was formed of a portico evidently disposed into two stories. The first is supposed to have served as a public atrium, mentioned by Livy on the occasion of its hav- ing been struck by lightning ; and the second was ROMAN FORUM. 185 dedicated to the library, called, from its locality, the Capitoline Library, which is frequently named in the writings of the ancients. Here must also have been the Athenaeum, or place destined to the study of the liberal arts. In the fragment of the ancient plan, xxvi, is the indication of the Intermontium, with a small part of the building that was situated on it, which must evi- dently have extended to beneath the north side of the rock.* Temple of Vejovis. We are informed by Dionysius, that in the Intermontium there was a spot called the Asylum, with two woods or groves, in the middle of which Vitruvius places the Temple of Vejovis. Like the Temple of Castor situated in the Flaminian Circus, it was considered by the same writer as participating in its form of the arrangements of other kinds of Temples. "f" The Citadel. On the southern summit of the Capi- toline hill, as above-mentioned, stood the rock or citadel raised there from the time of Romulus, which was also called the Tarpcian rock or hill, from the virgin Tarpeia, well known in the history of the war between the Ro- mans and Sabines. This rock must necessarily have * Poggius, tlic Florentine, in liis " Vicissitudes of Fortune," de- clares he read in his day, on the Portico of the Tabularium, the following inscriiition, which is confirmed by Nardini : . 216 REGION IX. away, as they had been greatly damaged by fire ; and, in the last century, in laying the foundations of the convent of S. Stcfano del Cacco, large pieces of cornices of a portico were also found. A part of the temple and buildings that stood near it is represented in a fragment of the ancient map of Rome, v, as proved by the inscription. It is to be observed, that these buildings must have lined the way, parallel with the Via Lata, which placed the middle part of the Campus Martius, in communication with the district nearest the Capitol, where the Via Publica existed, and extended along the southern side of the Septi enclosure. Temple of Minerva. In the same direction as the two above-named temples, must have stood that of Minerva, registered, in the catalogue of Victor, under the name of Minervium, and by Rufus styled the ancient, and having a grove. From its situation in the Campus Martius, it had also the surname of Campcnsis. The cell of this temple, composed of partition walls of a rectangular shape, lined with marble, and decorated with numerous ornaments, existed down to the time when Fulvio inhabited the convent of the Minerva, and, accordinjr to the statement of that writer, although nothing now exists, this temple was represented at this spot in the topographical map.* Temple of Minerva Calcich'ca. Another temple of * Plinv lias preserved the inscription wliich was placed by Pompey on the Temple of Minerva Campense : CN . PO.MI'EIVS . M AGNVS . IMPKRA TOR . BKI.I.O .XXX. ANNORVM . CONFECTO . FVSIS . FVCATIS . OCCISIS. IN . DEUITIONEM . ACCEPTIS . UOMINVM .(XXI . LXXXUl. M . DEMtESSIS . AVr . CAPTIS . NA VlliVS . DCtCXLVI. FLAMINIAN CIRCUS. 217 Minerva, of a small size, is stated, by Donati, to have been discovered in building the Roman college on the side corresponding in front of that of Isis. This temple may be determined as having been dedicated to Minerva, called Calcidica by Augustus, though its size was small. It is registered by Victor immediately after the other Temple of Minerva. Portico and Temple of Nephme. In the vicinity of the Scpti must have been the portico built by Agrippa in honour of Neptune, on account of the naval victories he had gained, and decorated by him with a painting of the Argonmits ; for which reason the portico was known among the ancients by the name of the Ar- gonauts ; and it is registered under this denomination by Victor and the Notitia. The temple consecrated to the same divinltv must have been joined to the portico, as it is registered by Rufus, and marked in the abridgment of Dion and Spartianus, under the denomi- nation of the basilica of Neptune. That this edifice, sacred to Neptune, was near the Septi, is inferred by observing that he who abridged Dion and Spartianus, (the one describing the buildings consumed in the fire which took place after the celebrated eruption of Vesu- vius ; the other, the restoration of the same buildings by Hadrian,) inserted it immediately after the Se})ti ; and ihis proximity is mentioned also in the verses of Martial, in which, making his Sclius pass from the por- tico of Muroj)a to that of Neptune, he directed him to- Oi'l'iniS . CASTI.I.I.IS. MDXXXVIII . IN . UDEM . lUCKPlIS. TLItlUS .A . MA EOT IS . I.ACV . AD . liVliltVM . MARE. SVBACTIS . VOTVM . MEUITO . MINEUVAE. 218 REGION IX. wards the Scpti.* As this portico was also known to the ancients under the name of Vipsania, from the cir- cumstance that Agrippa who built it belonged to the Gens Vipsania, it is indicated by Martial as having been near a wet gate. This gate, as judiciously observed by Nardius, has been recognized as one of the arches of the Aqua Virgo Aqueduct, which terminated, as already stated, along the front of the Scpti, on which ground this portico may be placed near the Septi. From all these reasons I was led to believe with Nardius, that to the Temple of Neptune belonged the eleven columns that now form the fa(^ade of the custom-house at the Piazza de Pietra ; and this opinion has been still fur- ther confirmed by the researches recently made by me in company of some learned men, and of Fea, the late Commissary of Antiquities. This portico, one of the principal in the Campus Martins, must have been adorned with numerous marbles, and particularly with trophies and figures of subject provinces, as a large quantity of these sculptures and of ancient fragments were found at this spot, and from which this piazza was called Pietra. Portico of Mtleai^er. After the portico of Neptune that of Meleager is regisicred, so that it seems to have been situated near that of Neptune, and evidently to- wards the Via Lata, since no other space in this vicinity is found to be unoccupied. * Nil intentatuiii Selius, nil imiuit infiusuni Ca'nanduni (luoties j;uii viclut esse domi. Currit ad Euri)])en, et te, I'auline, tu)s([ue Laudat Aeliilleos, sed sine fine ])edes Si nihil Europe fecit, tuni Stpta jietuntur." Martial, ii. 14. FLAMINIAN CIRCUS. 219 Temple of Antoninus and Spiral Column of Marcus Aurelius. Near the Temple of Neptune is the cele- brated spiral column called after Antoninus, but known from its has reliefs representing the war against the Marcomanni, to have been dedicated by the Senate to Marcus Aurelius, as is also proved by inscriptions found in 1777 on the Piazza di Monte Citorio, relating to the permission granted by the Emperors Septimius Severus and Clodius Albinus* to a certain Adrastus, a freed-man, to build at this spot a house at his own ex- pense, in order to guard the column of Marcus Aurelius, called also Cextixauia. These inscriptions were carved on an ancient door, which must have been that of the house of Adrastus ; and this must have been situated about the centre of the building now forming the Post- office. Nor could this column have been connected with the temple existing in the Piazza di Pietra, as the position of the column is parallel with the buildings that were along the Via Lata, while the said temple was in the straight direction of the edifices situated in the Campus Martins. Wherefore the Temple of Antoninus which was united to the column, must have been situated in the direction of the Via Lata. On the four sides that enclose this column one alone remains unoccupied to situate this Temple of Anto- ninus the one placed towards the Ohigi Palace, since on the side towards Monte Citorio, was the house of Adrastus above named ; on the side towards the Capitol, a part of the Temple of Neptune, and on the side corre- sponding to the Piombino palace on the Corso, there was * Clodius Albinus accejitcd for a time the precarious rank of Ctcsar ; lie connnauded the araiy in IJritain, di.sputed the empire with Septiuiius Severus, and was defeated and put to death. W. L 2 220 REGION IX. the other edifice mentioned in the vii rcjjion. Around the area placed before the temple in which stood the spiral column, there sCcms to have been a portico disposed in the manner delineated on the topogra])hical map. Equirite.* It is a common opinion that on the site now occupied by Monte Citorio, stood the amphitheatre of Statilius Taurus ; and Piranesi, having heard that some ruins of marble seats had been found when the adjoining house of the mission was built, imagined that this hill had been formed altogether of the ruins of the amphitheatre. The formation of this elevation of ground, is variously accounted for, but it is generally agreed that it is artificial. I cannot, however, admit that on it stood the amphitheatre of Taurus, because Strabo, in describing specifically the principal objects of the Campus Martins, placed in the minor field, together with three theatres, an amphitheatre, and that the latter was that of Statilius, is ascertained chiefly from the fact that in his time a single amphitheatre existed in the Campus Martius. The one commenced by Caligula was not then completed, and must have been nearer the Septa ; that of Trajan was pulled down by Hadrian shortly after its construction. Carlo Fontana, having examined this locality, informs us that no sign was dis- covered of an amphitheatre. He states that he found Monte Citorio formed of various strata of rubbish to the depth of seventy-seven palms, that is, either pure earth and mortar, or broken vases and mixed substances, and it was thus ascertained this site was a deposit for rubbish and other refuse arising from the construction of the new edifices in the Campus Martius. If, then, Piranesi declared that considerable remains of seats had been * Tlie Equirirv were games witli liorsc-raccs, celebrated in tlie Campus Martius in honour of Mars. W. FLAMINIAN CIRCUS. 221 found, it does not follow there was an amphitheatre here, for similar ruins might have belonged to other edi- fices destined to the public spectacles. In examining the indications above stated, in order to decide to what edifice of the ancient Campus Martins had appertained the portico and the numerous seats discovered, I found that they could not well suit any other than the Equirise registered by Rufus and by Victor in this region, or the stadium destined for horse races. Although it appears, by some verses of Ovid, that, among the Romans, these races took place on the grass, this is no objection to my conception of the place having been subsequently sur- rounded by a building for the spectators, in the shape of a stadium. In fact, a stadium is found registered in the catalogue of the Notitia of the Empire, which contained thirty thousand and eighty spectators, and this could be neither the Flaminian nor the Alexandrine stadium, since it is under the name of circus that these edifices are registered in the other catalogues. We may also admit the vicinity of the Equirise to the river, as stated by Ovid. If also the denomination of Aquiro, preserved by the church of S. Maria, situated in the vicinity, is derived from the word Equirioe, it would confirm the situation designated for this stadium. 7'he Anlonine Column. In the garden of the Mis- sione house there was excavated, in the time of Cle- ment XL, the large column of red granite, with its pedestal adorned with sculptures, and, from the inscrip- tion, it was ascertained that it had been dedicated to Antoninus Pius.* This column served afterwards to * On tlic pedestal wliicli supports tlie eoliunii was inscribed the 222 REGION IX. restore the solar obelisk now placed before the Curia Innocenziana, and its pedestal was sent to the Vatican gardens. These very important memorials were thus lost. Amphitheatre of Statilius Taurus. The amphi- theatre built by Statilius Taurus, at his own expense, in the Campus Martins, to represent the huntini,^ of wild beasts, as stated by Suetonius in the life of Augustus, may be placed on the site of the present Monte Gior- dano ; first, from the elevation existing there, which has evidently been produced by the ruins of some great building, and secondly, because this situation, forming part of the minor field, agrees with what is stated by Strabo in his description of the Campus Martius, where a similar amphitheatre must liavc stood. Portico of Europa. Between this amphitheatre and the EquiricT, that is, in the vicinity of the church of S. Salvatore in Lauro, in the opinion of Nardius and Donati, stood the celebrated portico of Euroj)a, taking principally into consideration the situation of this por- tico towards the west, as indicated by Martial, and this opinion was further confirmed by observing that the deno- mination, in lauro^ had been preserved to the said church, and by the supposition that it was derived from the groves that existed in the middle of this portico, as stated by Martial. The four female draped figures that were found in the garden of S. Salvatore in Lauro probably apotheosis of Antoninus and Faustina ; and on tlie otlier side was the following inscription : Live . ANTOMNO . AVG\STO . PIG. AMOMNVS. AV(;V:-rVs. IT. Vi II VS . AVGVSTVS . I 11.11. FLAMINIAN CIRCUS. 223 belonged to the decoration of this portico. I have, therefore, represented it in the suitable locality, divided into two parts by three double rows of columns, so as to leave room in the middle for the groves which, according to Martial, must have been divided into several parts.* This portico thus formed one of the most extensive and splendid edifices of the Campus Martins. Arches of Gratian, Valenti7iian, and Theodosius. At a short distance from this portico, towards the west, there was an arch dedicated to the Emperors Gratianus, Valcntinian, and Theodosius, the ruins of which were found near the church of S. Celso, in the Via del Banco de S. Spirito, together with the dedicatory inscription in which mention is made of some porticoes called Maxiini, which, from their vicinity, were probably those of the portico of Europa. Campus Minor. The edifices just described existed generally in the part of the Campus Martins called Minor, towards the east and north. Of those which completed the embellishment of this field towards the Tiber, where, according to the description of Strabo, there must have been principally sumptuous tombs, few- traces remain. In the vicinity of the Circus Agonalis, towards the minor field, there were found, at sundry times, marble works of various kinds not yet finished, which led to the belief that this quarter was inhabited by sculptors and stone-cutters. Through the length of * All ilelicat;\3 sole nirsus Eiirojiaj Inter tepciites jiust nieiiilieiii Imxos, Sedet, nin1)\iliit()re lil)er aeribiis curis. Mahtiai.j iii. G. 224f REGION IX. the minor field passed the triumphal way, which seems to have extended in a straight line from Pompey's Theatre to the Triumphal Bridge, folloAving the direc- tion indicated bv the bemnninfj of the Via del Pelle- grino, and not of the Via Giulia as generally believed. Solar Clock. Amongst the monuments that occu- pied the middle part of the larger field, the principal one was the Obelisk, one hundred and sixteen feet high comprising the basis, which served as a gnomon to a large solar clock ordered by Augustus and executed with great ingenuity by the mathematician Manilius, who added a gilt ball to its summit. In this clock the length of the days and nights was determined by means of bronze lines enchased in a large stone stratum, which also marked the hours till the sixth hour, and the lengthening and shortening of the days. This clock was an object of admiration not only for the obelisk that had been brought from Hierapolis, a city of Egypt, together with the one that stood in the Circus Maximus, but for the great marble pavement which, as containing the indication of the first and last hours of the day, must necessarily have been of great extension. As there were lately found various slabs of travertine stone in laying the foundations of the house situated in the minor side of the Piazza de S. Lorenzo in Lucina, it seems probable that the pavement extended to this spot. The pedestal that sustained this obelisk was found at the place now occupied by the largest chapel on the west side of the church of S. Lorenzo in Lucina, around which it was seen that there had been seven ste})s lined with marble, in which several metallic lines were en- FLAMINIAN CIRCUS. 225 chased, and in the angles there were the figures of the four principal winds.* The obelisk was found at some distance from this place, under a house situated in the small Piazza del Impresa, as seen by the inscription placed there. It is now raised in the Piazza del Citorio, where it serves merely as an ornament. Mausoleum of Augustus. About the middle of the Campus Martins, in a line facing the Pantheon, stood the celebrated tomb raised by Augustus, when he Mas consul for the sixth time, between the Flaminian way and the Tiber.-f- It was built in a style of such mag- nificence, that it surpassed all other monuments of the kind that existed in the Campus Martius, and was called a mausoleum, in imitation of that of Mausolus, at Halicamassus. There still remain considerable * The inscription on the granite supporting this solar obelisk was the following: IMP . CAES . DIVI . F. A VGVSTVS PONTIFEX . MAXIMVS IMP . XII . COS . XI . TUIB . POT . XIV AEGYPTO . IN . POTESTATEM POPVLI RO.MANI . REDACTA SOLI . DONVM . DEDIT. t Among the ruins of this great monument was discovered the cippus which stood in the court-yard of the ])alace of the Conser- vatori in the Capitol ; and, from the following inscription, it is known that it was erected to support the cinerary vase of A^rip- I)ina, wife of (ieniianicus, OSSA AORIPPIN.A . M . AORlrPAF. . F . DIVI . AVG . NEPTIS . VXORI GKHMANICl .CAESAHIS MATRIS . C . CAESAHIS . AVG. germamcis . principis. l5 2'kG REGION IX. parts of this celebrated monument, consisting in a double enclosure, of reticular construction, which parts were formed into a permanent amphitheatre in the first years of this century. This enclosure sustained the tumulus on which were planted the trees that reached to the top of the edifice, according to the description of Strabo. Around the middle part of the monument there was another wall, now entirely destroyed, or, at least, buried under ground, stated by early antiquar'ans to have been subdivided into numerous small cells, of a circular form. On the front turned towards the Pan- theon was the principal entrance, formed by a small portico, on the sides of which stood the two obelisks raised, the one before the north side of the basilica of Santa Maria Maggiorc, and the other on the Piazza del Quirinale. At the back part, as stated by Strabo, there was a large grove, with beautiful walks, wliicli, however, could not extend beyond the end of the Corso, or of the Via Ripetta, as other monuments existed in that quarter. In the part occupied by the grove was excavated the Naumachia in which Augustus had a naval engagement represented, and this Naumachia was different from the one that existed in the Trans- tiberium region, where the gardens of Cffisar were situated. The C(sarean j)ilc. At a short distance from the Mausoleum, and in the centre of the Campus Martins, there existed, according to Strabo, the pile where the body of Augustus was burned ; it was enclosed by a wall of white marble, encircled with iron railings ; the interior was planted with poplar trees. Near the church FLAMINIAN CIRCUS. 227 of S. Carlo al Corso, there were found some cipj)i, with the names of several relations of the family of Augustus, indicating that they had been burnt there, which led to the conclusion that theCsesarean pile was in this locality. This situation agrees with what is stated by Herodian, " it stood in the widest part of the Campus Martins." Tomb of Agrip2^(t,' Of the tombs which, according to Strabo, were raised to the most distinguished men in the Campus Martins, another only of large size existed till the times of Paul III., on the Piazza del Popolo when it was destroyed, and with the stones taken from this large mass, Flaminio Vacco was of opinion that the two towers situated beside the present Porta del Popolo were built. The position of this tomb, known by the name of Meta, is marked in Bufalini's map of Rome, at the place now occupied by the church of S. Maria del Popolo. It is not well ascertained to whom this tomb belonged, but considering its situation to be in the same direction with the Mausoleum of Augustus, and that it is of a similar style of construction, it would seem to be the tomb that by a special permission Agrippa raised to himself in the Campus Martius, which, however, did not contain his body, since he was buried by order of Augustus in the Mausoleum. Sylla had also raised a sepulchre for himself in the Campus Martius, but it seems to be indicated by the verses of Lucan, that it stood more towards the centre of this celebrated field. Gardens of the Doinitii.''' On the top of the hill * Ciuiina reminds us that the sepulchre of tlic Doniitian family, in which were deposited the ashe.s of Nero, was situated on the liili overhanj^ing the Piazza del Popolu ; and relates the tradi- tion that the ancient church of S. IMaria del Popolo was hnilt at tlic expense of the Roman people near the sepulchre of the monster, to purify the place from the pollution. J'iilc 2nd vol. "Italy in the Nineteenth Century," chap. 8; "Mornint,^ ^^'alk in Rome." W. L G J^28 REGION IX. behind the church of S. Maria del Popolo, there were lately found, when this ground was laid out as a public walk, many foundations of a large building besides those that were already known, and that support the part of the hill towards the north side and a portion of the part to the east, which were altered to sustain the city walls. From the vicinity to the Sepulchre of the Gens Domitia, these ruins are supposed to have be- longed to some gardens appertaining to that family. Gardens of Lucullus. Adjoining those gardens were those of Lucullus, celebrated amongst the ancients for their magnificence, and especially for the embellishments made by Valerius Asiaticus. Messalina, struck with their beauty, conspired against Valerius, and had him condemned to death by Claudius, in order to get pos- session of them.* These gardens were situated where the arches of the Acqua Virgo commenced, and as it is known that they commenced at the foot of the hill above the church of S. Andrea delle Fratte, the position of the Lucullan gardens may be fixed at the district now occupied by the houses placed along the Via del Due Macelli, opposite the Propaganda Fide College and the Vic Gregoriana and Sistina. And there, particularly in * The passage in tlie Annals is here given : " Nam Valerium Asiaticum bis consulem, fuisse quondam adulterum ejus credidit : pariteique hortis inhians, quos ille a Lucullo co'ptos insigni mag- uificcntia extollebat, Suilium accusandis utrisque immittit." Tacitus, xi. 1, Valerius was not grauted a public trial. " Xcquc data Senatus copia, intra cubiculuni auditur, !Mcssalina coram et Suilio." See the chapter on " Italy in the Nineteenth Ccnturv," 1st volume, on the Tuscan criminal law, wherein this mode of cliamber-trial is referred to by the Tuscan jurist, W. By a singular and just retribution, this detestable woman met the death she deserved, in the gardens slie had coveted and so FLAMINIAN CIRCUS. 229 the Mignanelli palace, are seen sundry remains of walls of reticular construction, that formed the first story of the building annexed to these gardens, In an old pas- sage, that, from the Piazza Mignanelli went under the Via Gregoriana, and finished at the beginning of the Via Sistina, there are other remains of ancient walls ; this passage has been made through the very ruins of the building ; and under the house, which I have inha- bited for many years (formerly the Tomati palace), there still exists a room with the roof divided into squares, which certainly formed part of the buildings of LucuUus. Above this house, and under the highest part of the hill, arc other remains of ancient edifices, and ruins were also lately found in rebuilding the house situated in the middle of the Via Gregoriana. It is thus ascertained that these gardens were distributed, agree- ably to their position, into various terraces, disposed in succession one after another. Beyond the Convent of Trinita dei Monti there are some other ruins nearly de- wickcdly obtained. After the execution of her favourite, Mcssa- lina retired to tlie scene of her dissipation, and was tiiere dis- patclied by orders of the frecdman of Claudius. " Interim IMessalina Luculhanis in hortis prolatare vitam, coin- ponere preces, nonnulla spe, et aliquando ir;i : tant;"i inter cx- trenia superl)ia auebat. Ac ni credeni ejus Narcissus ])ropera- visset, vcrterat pernicics in accusatoreni. Ictu tribuni trans- fi^Mtur." The etfcct ])roduccd on the mind of Claudius is <:raj)hica!lv narrateil liy the historian. " Nuntiatuiii<|ue Claudio c]iulanti jx'rissc Alessalinam, non distincto, su;'i an alit'ua maiui : nee ille (ju.Tsivit, pojioscitiiue poeuluni.et sdlita eonvivio celebravit. Ne sreutis (juidrin dicbus odii, gaudii, ira', tristitiio, ulliiis deiiitpie huniani atfcetiis siirna dedit." TAcrrrs, Ann. xi. S's. ^\'. 230 REGION IX. faced, that may be supposed to liave belonged to these gardens. In Bufalini''s map of Rome, at the liighest point of the hill, is the mark of a round edifice, which he called the Temple of the Sun, and it is registered under that denomination in the unedited tables of Fulvio in the Vatican Library, and it is well known to have been situated at the spot called the Parnassus, of what formerly was the Medici Villa. It is related by Nardius, that in his time there was found under a house forming the corner of the Via Felice with the Porta Pinciana, a marble cornice, on the frieze of which there was an indication of the word Oc- tavia, and this led him to conjecture that the gardens of Messalina having passed into the possession of her daughter Octavia, some monument hud been erected to the latter at this spot. From all these discoveries, it is ascertained that these gardens occupied an extensive space, and contained very large buildings. There in fact must have existed those porticoes Avhere Lucullus discoursed with the Greeks, who availed themselves of the use of his rich libraries ; and the round building, known under the name of Temple of the Sun, was pro- bably the, hall of Apollo, in which he gave the sump- tuous supper to Cicero and l*ompey, as related by Plutarch.* The gardens ofliUcullus, passing afterwards * Lucullus having rested from the wars withdrew from jmblie life, the vexations of -which he had discovered and felt. He ])ur- chased, Gibbon reminds us, the villa of Marius, in Campania, wjiich was then adorned by him with (irccian arts and Asiatic treasures. Lucullus had other villas, of e(jual though various magnificence, at Baise, Naples, Tusculum, &c. He boasted tliat he changed his cli- mate with tlie storks and cranes. Lucullus was addicted to the FLAMINIAN CIRCUS. 2S1 into the possession of the emperors, and in the first in- stance into that of Nero, must have acquired greater grandeur and magnificence; and to these were perhaps added the others described above, supposed to be those of the Domitii or of Pompey, since those of Lucullus alone are registered by the Regionaries in their cata- Greek literature and philosophy : the learned Greeks in Rome flocked to his gardens and libraries as to the residence of the Muses. The passage referred to by Canina, in Plutarcli's "Life of Lucullus," is subjoined: " His luxury was the common topic of conversation in tlie city. And when Cicero and Pompey saw him one day walking at leisure in the Forum, tliey went and joined liini. Cicero was one of his most intimate friends ; and though Pompey and he had been at variance about the command in the army, yet tliey frequently saw each other, and conversed witli great civility. Cicero, after he had saluted him, asked him, 'If he would let them sup with him?' ' With all my heart,' replied Lucullus, and pressed them to name the day. ' This very evening,' said Cicero, ' we will go home with you, provided you give us no more than your own supper.' Lu- cullus at first would have evaded it, desiring them to put it off till the next day, which tliey refused. Tiiey would not so nuich as let him speak to any of his servants, for fear he would give orders to have something added. With mncli ado they allowed him to tell one of them, in their hearing, ' TJiat he would sup in the Apollo,' which was the name of one of the best rooms in his liouse ; and by that means he deceived them ; for every room had its stated ex- pense, its own bill of fare, and particular furniture ; so that when tlic servants were once told in what room lie would sup, they innne- eiatcly knew what tlie sujjper was to cost, and in what manner everything was to be prepared and regulated. His suppeis in tlie AjxiHo were stated at fifty thousand drachmas ; and that was the sum laid out on tliat day's entertainment ; so that Pompey was surprised not only at the expense, but at the shortness of time wherein it was j)rcj)are(i. Tims wantonly and riotously did Lu- cullus em])l()y his wealth, treating it, like what indeed it was, a captive and a barbarian." W. 23:2 REGION IX. logues. According to this supposition, it is reasonable to believe that Nero was buried near his imperial pos- sessions, without destroying tlie established opinion that they had previously belonged to Pompey. In some part of these gardens of Lucullus evidently resided Pincius, the senator, from whom seems to be derived the denomination of Pincian, given to this hill in the latter times of the Roman empire. The front part of the hill, on account of the numerous gardens possessed there by the most celebrated Romans, was commonly called Collis Hortulorum, and formed the most agree- able part of this region ; while the part situated in the plain was the most sumptuous, from the great public edifices it contained. This district latterly described forms a part of that known in modern Rome as the English quarter. I re- sided in a house which must have stood on one of the terraces of the gardens of the luxurious Lucullus. The ground is naturally favourable to the construction of terraces, and the view from the summit of the hill is always delightful, at sunset, splendid. It seems to have been a fiivourite place of recreation with the Ro- mans in all ages, and is now perhaps even more so than in the latter days of the Republic. I have frequently had occasion to remark how scanty the knowledge pos- sessed bv visitors in Rome concerning the spot they dwell in, with reference to the topography of the ancient city. Yet the great interest of a sojourn in Rome con- sists (one would suppose) in gaining some degree of FLAMINIAN CIRCUS. 233 knowledge concerning the wonderful and famous city which ruled the world. We have now surveyed the re- gion which contained the most striking monuments of Ancient Rome, the few remains of wjiich still impress the mind of the beholder with astonishment. We must not however rashly suppose these extensive and costly gardens added to the happiness or comfort of the people; on the contrary, it may be believed they ministered only to the luxuries of the rich, depriving the mass of the in- habitants of all space for wholesome habitations, and crowding them into narrow and repulsive dwellings. This hill we have referred to was first called Collis Hor- tulorum or Hortorura, from the celebrated gardens of Sallust adjoining it. Then it was called Pincius, from the noble family of the Pincio who resided in it. The Emperor Aurelian it was Avho enclosed it within the walls of Rome the Collis Hortulorum being outside the walls of Servius. W . 234 REGION X. PALATIUM. 1. Temple of JujMtcr Stator. 2. Temple of Ramnusia. 3. Prin- cipal Entrance to the Palace. 4. Greek and Latin Library. 5. Temples of Cybele, of Bacchus, and of Juno Sospita. C. Honse of Augustus. 7. Temple of Apollo. 8. Temple of Conquering Jove. 9. Temple of Vesta Palatina. 10. Tibe- rian House. 11. Additional Building of Caligula. 12. Tem- ple of Augustus. 13. Part of the Palace added by Nero, 14. Palatine Baths. 15. Palatine Area. IG. Gardens of Adonis. 17. Temple of Pallas. 18. Septizonium of Septi- mius Severus. Arch of Constantine in the Book (not on the Map). The tenth region occupied the whole of the Pahatine hill, and derived its name from the palace that was situated on it. Its limits on the side of the Roman Forum and on that of the Circus Maximus are clearly fixed by the position of the edifices situated on the confines of the two regions. On the side towards the Esquiline this region probably extended as far a.s the Via Sacra, and on that towards the Coclian it evidently must have occupied the whole valley that divides the two hills, with some part also of the Ca'lian. The circumference thus attains the measure of 11, GOO feet, assiijned bv the Regionaries. On the Palatine hill, which formed the princi])al part of this region, stood the primitive city, and subsccjuently, at the ])eriod of PALATIUM. 235 Roman greatness, it contained tlie most magnificent buildings that it was possible to raise, and which formed the Imperial Palace. According to the plan of this work I will now indicate the position of the principal monuments it contained. Temple of Jupiter Stator. There were two princi- pal approaches to the Palatine, one situated towards the Esquiline, the other towards the Capitol. From the latter we shall begin by examining the distribution of the edifices situated in this region. On this side, according to the opinion most generally admitted, stood the Porta Mugonia, and near it miust have been the temple dedicated to Jupiter Stator, from the times of Romulus, as stated principally by Dionysius, and also by Ovid in his well known verses.* And as this temple must also have been near the house of Tarqui- nius Priscus, which, according to Livy, faced the Via Nuova that united the Roman Forum to the Vela- brum, its situation may be established on the part of the hill above the S. Anastasia Church, and not far distant from the spot assigned to the Temple of Vesta, this vicinity being particularly indicated by Ovid in the verses preceding those above quoted. Near the place, where it may be decided on better evidence, stood the Porta Mugonia, some ruins of ancient buildings exist, wliicli may be supposed to have belonged to the Temple of Jupiter Stator. * " Hie locus est Vestfp, qui Palladis servsit ct iancm : Hie fuit autiqui regia parva Nunia;. Iiiile ])etens (Icxtraiii, porta e>-t, ait, ista Palati : Hie Stator : lioe priinuni condita Konia l(iCo est." Ovid., Tii.itoliua nova* dooms fundauieuta fecit." Suetonius in Ccdigula. W. M 2 244 REGION X. then formed into the entrance. In the opposite angle of the same side of the hill towards the Tiber, must have been the steps called by Plutarch, in the article Romulus, those of the beautiful bank made by Caligula near the Corgno, evidently to form a communication on that side of the palace with the Velabrum. It is further stated by Suetonius, that Caligula, to be near the Capitoline Jove, built a bridge that joined the palace to the Capitol, commencing above the spot occupied by the temple of the deified Augustus, and that in the Capitoline area he laid the foundations to make for himself a new habitation. This circumstance confirms the position of the extension of the palace by Caligula on this side of the hill. On this same side of the Palatine stood the houses of the most illustrious men who flourished in the last years of the Roman Republic, and who are well known in ancient history. Before the Palatine was Avholly occupied by the Imperial Palace, this must have been the most inhabited part of Rome. Three of these houses onlv are re^ristered in Victor's catalogue, those of Dionysius, of Q. Catulus, and of Cicero.* The position of these on this side of the * Tliere arc many allusions made by Cicero (both in his Letters to Atticus and Orations), to his house on the Palatine, its destruction and burning by the firebrand Clodius, and its sub- sequent honourable restoration by tlie Senate and Roman people. Vid. Epist. ad Atticum, passim ; in L. iv. Ep. 3, he tlius writes : " Armatis hominibus ante diem tertium, Non. Novemb. ex- pulsi sunt fabri de area nostra ; disturbata porticus Catuli, quae ex S. C. Coss. locutionc reficiebatur, et ad tectum pane j)crve- nerat. Q. fratris domus primo f'racta conjectu lapidum ex area nostra, deinde inflammata jussu Clodii, inspectante urbe, conjectis PALATIUM. 245 Palatine is fixed by the celebrated house of M. Scaurus, which Asconius in the notes on the oration of Cicero for Scaurus, states to have been in that part of the Palatine which was reached on descending from the Via Sacra by turning up the adjoining lane towards the left, or that by descending from the Via Sacra to the Forum, and turning to the left by the way that was under the Palatine and served as the limit of the two regions, we would arrive at the house of Scaurus, which there occupied an eminent position towards the top of the hill. As this house afterwards belonged to Clodius, it is thus ascertained that here also was the house of Cicero (as the vicinity of his house to that of Clodius is proved by many passages of his writings), together with that of Q. Catulus. By the extension of the palace on this side, those houses that Avcre situated on the top of the hill, were probably comprised within the buildings of the palace, and those that were lower down, passing successively to different individuals, it ignilnis, magna querela et geniitu non dicam bonorum, qui nescio an ulli sint, sed plane hominum omnium." It is to be borne in mind tbat Clodius liad ordered tlie Pontifices to consecrate the ground on which this splendid house of Cicero stood, to the goddesses Peace and Liberty, so as to make the re- stitution of it in a manner impossible ; but how futile were these efforts of his bitter enemy, and how triumphant liis return. Tlie passage in the oration " Pro domo sua ad Pontifices," will show ; " Me consequcntibus diebus in ea ipsa domo, qua tu me cxjuileras, quaiu cxpiUiras, quam incenderas, pontifices, consules, patres conscripti coUocaverunt : mihiquc, quod ante mo neniini, pecuniA publica cedificandam domum consuerunt." Vide in Pisoji. W. M 3 246 REGION X. may be believed that they preserved the denomination of their primitive owners. Temples of Augustus and of the Household Gods. On this side of the Palatine stood the Temple of Augustus, begun by Livia, continued by Tiberius, and finished by Caligula, as mentioned by Suetonius in the life of the latter emperor. It is stated by that writer that Caligula commenced, at the upper part of the ground occupied by that temple, the bridge that com- municated from the palace with the Capitol. The situa- tion of the temple is agreed to have been at the place named Velia, which, by common accord, is in the angle of the hill looking over the Forum, where some remains of large walls have lately been found that may be sup- posed to have belonged to the substructions of this noble edifice. The plan of the temple is recognised in the fragment of the Capitoline marbles marked xliv, on which is also seen the plan of the other round tem- ple, of which some ruins exist at the same spot ; these ruins may, from their situation, evidently be attributed to the Temple of the Divi Penates, Household Gods, built on the part of the Palatine called Velia, where in more remote times, stood the house of Tullus Hostilius.* Part of the Palace added hy Nero. A greater addition was made to the Palace of the Ca?sars under Nero on the Palatine, besides the part built upon the Esquilinc distinguished from its magnificence, by the * In tlic Aiicyrana inscription is recorded the building of tliis and other temples by Augustus in these words : .^:DK-M . DF.UM . PENATIUM . vEDEM . JUVENTUTIS . jEDEM . MATKIS . magna: . IN . FALATIO . FECI , C. PALATIUM. 247 denomination of the golden house. Pliny, considering these vast extensions of the palace, both under Caligula and under Nero, observes that the city was twice occu- pied by the House of the Emperors.* As remains of the additions made by Nero on the Palatine, we may recognise the large walls and arches situated on the left of the Augustan House towards the Circus Maximus, and along the side fronting the Crelian. About the middle of this side are the arches, existing in the plain beneath, which formed a branch of the aqueduct built by Nero, that conveyed the Claudian waters to the Palatine. Palatine Baths. At the place where the Ncronian aqueduct terminated seem to liave been the Palatine baths indicated by Flavins. The ruins existing in this * Nero's Palace was a structure of such extraordinary extent and magnificence, that were not the descriptions of it whicli have been transmitted to us too well authenticated to admit of doubt, they woukl be received ratlicr as the fictions of an eastern tale than records of a reality. The enclosure extended from the Palatine to the Esquiline Mount, which was more than a mile in breadth, and it was entirely surrounded by a spacious portico, enibellisiied with a profusion of sculpture aTul statuary, among which stood the celebrated colossal statue of Nero himself, 120 feet in height. The gardens contained every variety of hill and dale, wood and water, interspersed with temples and pleasui-e-houses, and the baths were supplied from a great distance with sea and mineral waters. The a])artments were lined with marMc enriched with jasper, topaz, and other precious gems ; the timber works and ceilings were inlaid with gold, ivory, and mother-of-pearl ; and the resjilendent elegance of its furniture ami decoration, ])rocm'ed it the ai)pellation of the Golden House. ]}ut it was not destined to renuiin a monument of either the grandeur or the folly of its founder ; it was destroved bv Vespasian, as being too gorgeou'^ for the residence even of a Roman Emperor. ^\^ 248 REGION X. locality correspond to a certain degree with the design on the fragment of the ancient map of Rome, liv, in which there is an inscription indicating the batlis of Caesar, that probably formed a part of these Palatine baths. Area Palatina. Between the Augustan house, and the addition made by Nero, there are traces of a large and somewhat long area, which was visibly surrounded with porticoes and had a large apsis in the centre of the western side. This area evidently served as a court- yard to the palace of the Caesars, and also as a private race-ground, as its form, nearly similar to that of a circus, demonstrates, so that it is marked as the Palatine hippodrome. Gardens of Adonis. In an interesting fragment of the map of Rome (xlix) is found the design of a large hall surrounded by five rows of columns with clear indications of plantations in the centre. It is generally agreed, from the inscription that partly exists, that these designs represent the gardens of Adonis in which Domitian received Apollonius Tyanreus after having sacrificed to Pallas, but the exact place where these gardens were situated is not known. Considering, however, the great extent occupied by these gardens, as proved by the Capitolinc marbles, I find no other locality on the Palatine sufficient to contain them except the area situated on the top of the hill reaching to the left side of the principal entrance to the palace. Temple of Pallas. This situation of the gardens of Adonis is still further, to a certain degree, confirmed by that of the Temple of Minerva or Pallas, where PALATIUM. 249 Domitian offered a sacrifice before receiving Apollonius Tyanaeus * in the gardens above-mentioned, which must have been near to it, also from the denomination the locality preserves this temple must have stood very near the place where the gardens of Adonis were situated. Septizonium of Septimius Severus. The last of the Palatine buildings we shall dwell upon is the large edifice erected by Septimius Severus in order to present the exhibition of one of his great works to the view of those who came to Rome from Africa. It was called Septizonium, -f- according to some from the fonii of its structure, according to others from the locality concen- trating various ways. There existed till the time of Sixtus V, in the southern angle of the Palatine many remains of this edifice which were destroyed j in order to * This Apollonius, called Tyanaius, was a Pythagorean philo- sopher, whose followers ascribed to him the possession of mira- culous powers. A Roman Emperor placed his statue next that of our Saviour. In relation to the biography of Tyanseus, Gibbon has concocted one of his most infamous notes. W. t Septizonium. Is, from its derivation, the name of a great mass of building surrounded by seven belts or rings, most pro- bably of lofty columns. It was so called from the Greek ^wviov, a girdle. Spartianus mentions (among the public works which were built by Severus) a Septizonium, and " Thermas Seve- rianas ;" and Suetonius, in the beginning of his " Life of Titus," tell us he was, " natus prope Septizonium, sordidis rodibus," &c., but this was doubtless a wholly different one from that of Severus, as he reigned so many years after. In Annnianus Marcellinus there is mention of a Septizonium, which that writer declares to have been a celebrated place in Home, where a con- duit or bath (Nympheum) of great extent was founded by the Emperor Marcus, W. X Vide chapter on the vicissitudes of the city. W. M O 250 REGION X. employ in another building the columns that were left, but various designs were preserved of the appearance these ruins presented. In the fragments of the ancient map of Rome relating to the curved part of the Circus Maximus (xliii) that was near it, the plan of this building is shewn, with some variation, however, from what was seen in the ruins that remained. In the ex- cavations made by Fea in 1829, along the Strada di S. Gregorio, in order to find the aqueduct that conveyed the so called waters of Mercury, a kind of square foundation, unoccupied in the middle, was discovered with the indication of the pavement of an ancient way that went round it, forming in this part a semicircular figure. This foundation, which evidently served to sup- port a large statue in front of the Septizonium, happen- infT to aOTce at one cxtremitv of its front with what is seen marked in the above ruins, leads to the belief that this edifice extended as much further towards the Circus Maximus, and that it was composed of three apses as indicated by the Capitoline marbles. Arch of Constantine* In the circumference pre- scribed to this region, it is customary to comprise also the arch that exists entire at the foot of the eastern angle of the Palatine hill, which by the inscription (in Inscription on tlie Arch of Constantine. IMP. CAES. FL. CONSTANTINO . MAXIMO P. F. AVGVSTO . S P. Q. R. QVOD . INSTINCTV . DIVINITATIS . MENTIS MAGNITVDINE . CVM . EXEKCITV . SVO TAM . DE . TYUANNO . QVAM . I)E . OMNI . El VS FACTIONE . VNO . TEMPORE . JVSTIS REMPVBLICAM . VLTVS . EST . AIIMIS AUCVM . TIUVMPHIS . INSIGNE.M . DICAVIT PALATIUM. 251 the note) repeated on its front parts, is proved to have been dedicated to Constantine. On the minor arched roofs is inscribed on one side SIC. X. SIC XX, and on the other, votis. x. votis. XX. From the various style of sculpture of the figured works that adorn this monument, it is easily seen that they belonged to some other more ancient edifice, and principally to an arch of Trajan, as appears by the sculptures allusive to this Emperor placed upon the arch. The arch of Trajan from which these orna- ments were taken, must have been the one left imper- fect after his death, as stated by Dion, and not the one that stood in his forum, as commonly believed, since this forum continued to be preserved in all its parts, even after the time of Constantine, as appears by the description of Ammianus Marcellinus. Besides, the words ARCVM TRivMPHis iNsiGNEM in the last line of the inscription, prove, in a measure, that this arch was already illustrated by other triumphs, and that it had existed on the same spot before the time of Con- stantine. The situation of this arch was, in fact, com- prised in the circumference prescribed to this region (and not in that belonging to the following region), as stated in the Notitiee Catalogue, so that the limits of the latter region could not extend to it ; and secinj; this locality registered in the catalogue mentioned, it must be considered as one of the numerous additions subsequently made to the region we have now described.* * The present appearance of many of tlie ancient monunients referred to Ly Canina in the 8th, 9tli, and 10th Regions, will be found described in Chapter 13, vol. ii. of " Italy in the Nineteenth Century." W. 252 REGION XI. REGION XI. CIRCUS MAXLMUS. 1. Temple of Ceres and of Proserpine. 2. Temple of Ceres and of Hercules Pompcianus. 3. Temple of Mercury. 4. Temple of Portumnus. 5. Temple of Vesta. 6. Temple of Castor called of Fortune. 7. House of Rienzi. 8. Forum Olito- rium, or Herb Market. 9. Temples of Piety, of Juno Matuta, and of Hope. 10. Arch of Lentulus. The eleventh region, called that of the Circus Maximus which it contained, besides the space com- prised between the Palatine and Aventine hills, occu- pied almost entirely by the Circus, extended also to the plain situated along the course of the Tiber, lying between the two extremities of the walls enclosed by Servius, that is from the Trigemina to the Flumentana gate. In this locality it formed a circuit of about 11,050 feet, as it is registered by the Rcgionaries. The Circus Maximus. The valley situated between the Aventine and the Palatine, called by the ancients Murtia, presented from the early times of Rome a pro- pitious site for the races so that they might be seen by numerous spectators. It is related by Dionysius Hali- carnassus, that Tarquinius Priscus gave a permanent form to the Circus, called Maximus, in the valley situated between the Palatine and the Aventine, being CIRCUS MAXIMUS. 253 the first to construct covered seats around it, as the people were before obliged to view the game standing on benches supported by wooden poles ; he also divided the ground into thirty districts, assigning one to each Curia, in order that the people should be regularly placed so as to have a distinct view of the games. This circus was subsequently formed into a structure so large, that it was considered as one of the remarkable objects of the city. The length of this circus, according to the same writer, was three stadii and a half,* the breadth four plectri (equal to 400 feet), a deep ditch ten feet broad surrounded the two larger, and one of the lesser sides. Behind this ditch, called the Euripus, there were three tiers of porticoes, the lower ones having, as in the theatre, stone benches, the upper ones having benches of wood. The two larger sides, as in all the other circi, were united in one extremity by a smaller side having the form of a semicircle, and the larger sides consisted of a single portico of three rows embracing eight stadii, capable of containing 150,000 persons. On the other smaller side were the starting points, where the horses were let loose at the same moment. Without the circus there was another portico of a single tier, which contained the shops, and over these there were various habitations. In each of the shops were entrances, and steps used as a passage to view the games. As to this description of Dionysius, the mat- ters which relate to the dimensions and the number of spectators arc stated differently by Pliny, and are not * The circus was tlicreforc nearly half an Italian mile long. W. 254 REGION XI. considered to be exact. For this reason Nardini, wish- ing to reconcile tlie statement of Dionysius witli that of Pliny, supposed that the measures given by the former of these writers referred to the whole circus comprising the porticoes, and those of the latter to the internal space only. Yet it is proper to observe that the mea- surements given by Dionysius of the length and circuit of the porticoes are, to a certain degree, verified by what I have been able to deduce from the traces pre^ sented by the ground. But these matters cannot now be determined, from the many changes that occurred in ancient times, whence may be derived the differences in assigning the dimen- sions, and the discrepancies pointed out resjDecting the number of spectators that this circus could contain a number computed by Dionysius at a hundred and fifty, by Pliny at two hundred and sixty, by Victor at three hundred and eighty, and by the Notitia? at four hun- dred and eighty-five thousand. These disparities of dimensions and number of spectators must be attributed to the different additions made to the circus, principally by the emperors, as deduced from the various state- ments of ancient writers. It should be observed that until the eighth century there remained an inscription on the arch which afforded an entrance to the circus on the southern side, which must have been put up on account of some addition made to the circus by the Emperor Titus.* There also still remain some ruins of IMP. TITO . CAESAUI . DIVI . VKSl'ASIANI . F. VESI'ASIANO . AVG. I'OMIIICI . MAXIMO CIRCUS MAXIMUS. 255 porticoes of this circus along the side situated under the Palatine. Other remains of the curved part are found near the Crolian, and some also exist on the other large side, under the Aventine. Amongst the fragments of the ancient map of Rome are those marked xlhi, which are commonly admitted to represent the semicircular part of this circus, with some neighbouring buildings, and also a part of the larger sides with the indication of the spina in tlic centre. It is upon this spina that stood the two obelisks that are now erected, one in the Piazza del Popolo, the other in that of St. John Lateran. Here stood also a temple (which is designed on a medal of Trajan representing this circus), which he restored and enlarged. This temple is supposed to be that of Youth, mentioned by Livy in the forty-sixth book of his history, and it is exhibited by the said medal as having been in the middle of the side placed under the Aventine. Towards the spot occupied by the starting place of the circus, in making lately some excavations to find the aqueduct called the Mercury, a large wall was found that followed the direction of the porticoes of the circus, and in this it seems to me possible to recog- nise a part of the enclosure where the cars were detained Tiun. roT. iM. XVII. ros. viii. r. p. I'uiNciri . svo. tjVdD . I'UAKCF.rTIS . PATIUS . CONSII.IISCi VE . ET. AVSPins . (JKNTEM . JVDAEOllVM . Dd.MVIT. ET VP.BKM . IIII'.UOSDLIMA.M . O.MNIIiVS . ANTE . SE. Dvciiivs . ui'.GiHvs . f;E.Nrir.i;siiVE . avt . frvstua rnri TA-M . avt . (imni.no . inti:.ntata.m . dklkvit. Tlie above inscription was found in the eighth century, and refer- red to an arch in tlic Circus Maxiuius. It was, subsequently, most iuapproj)riately ascribed to the Arcli of Titus in the Via Sacra. 256 REGION XI. before entering into the course. Opposite this enclo- sure, towards the Aventine, and behind the church of S. Maria in Cosmedin, there are some ancient walls which seemed to have belonged to the office of the secretary of the circus, or to the place where deliberations were held upon matters relating to the games that took place in the circus. Temple of Ceres and Proserpine.* Near the end of the circus, and beyond the goal, stood, as clearly proved by Dionysius, the Temple of Ceres and Proser- pine vowed by the dictator Aulus Postumius, and after- wards consecrated by the consul Cassius. As there remain in this position introduced in the walls of the church of Sa. Maria in Cosmedin, several Corinthian columns, we are enabled to establish the situation of this temple at this spot, and that the said columns belonged to its peristyle ; this is chiefly proved by their style, which is similar to that of the works raised at the period when Tacitus states that this temple had been restored by Tiberius, the primitive building having been de- stroyed by fire or by time. As this temple had been dedicated to different divinities, we must suppose that its cella was divided into two parts, like that of the Temple of Venus and Rome, if they were not dis- tinct temples that were originally consecrated iq these divinities. * There are at present eight Corinthian columns belonging to the peristyle of this temple, incrustcd in the walls of tlie church named by Canina ; they are of white marble, skilfully worked, and establish that, in the reign of Tiberius, when tlie beautiful temple, of which they formed part, was erected, the science of architecture must have reached its utmost perfection. W. CIRCUS MAXIMUS. 257 Temples of Ctesar and of Hercules Pompeimms. These two temples whicli are registered one after the other by Victor, are proved by Nardini to have been near the Aventine, with the front towards the PaLatine. On the spot indicated there exist some remains of ancient walls, which seem to have belonged to one of the cellee of this temple. Temple of Mercury. Nardini, on the assertion of a certain Francesco Passeri, has also stated that there had been found in a vineyard, situated between the Circus Maximus and the Aventine hill, sundry ruins of a temple consecrated to Mercury, which he believed to be the one mentioned by Ovid as being in sight of this circus.* SalincE Salt-stores. At the extremity of this region, under the Aventine, was the Trigemina gate, which, according to the observations of Professor Nibby, must have stood not far from the Sublician bridge. It may thus be placed in the plain under the S. Sabina Church, where there exist some ruins of this bridge. Near this gate were the Salincc or salt store-houses re- gistered by Rufus and by Victor ; and these, according to Frontinus, gave the name to the spot situated near to this gate. Many remains of ancient walls still exist in this locality under the hill, which may be supposed to have belonged to the warehouses attached to these Salinas. Temple of Porluvinns. This temple is registered by Kufiis and Victor in the vicinity of the Sublician * Tciiipla tilii posucrc Putrcs spectantia Circuiu lilibu; ex illu est Iktc tibi festa dies. Ovid., Fust, v, C 258 REGION XI. bridge ; and as the ruins seen in tlic river before axriving at tlie port of Ripa Grande, indicate the real situation of this bridge, tlie Temple of Portumnus may be fixed at this spot, where there arc also ruins of ancient walls near the arch of the new Salinre. Arch of Lentulus. Near the spot where stood the arch called Salara Vecchia, it is stated by Poggio Bracciolini, and by Mazzocchi, that there existed in their time an ancient arch, which appeared by the in- scription to have been built, by decree of the Senate, by Publius Lentulus Scipio, and Titus Quintius Cris- prinus Valcrianus, who are supposed to have been consuls of Rome in the first years of the empire.* Temple of Dis {or Pluto) called Temple of Vesta. To determine to what divinity was consecrated the small round temple existing, and in a great measure preserved, on the banks of the Tiber near the Sena- torial or Palatine bridge, much has been written and various opinions offered, that would require a long dis- sertation merely to relate them separately. But if this temple is not that of Yesta, which it is now univer- sally known was near the Roman Forum, nor that of Hercules Victor which was in the Forum Boarium, and could not reach to this spot, nor that of Portumnus above described, which was near the Sublician bridge, nor that of Yolupia which was near the Navalia, nor * Inscription on tlic Arcli of Lentulus : p. LENTVLVS . fN. I'. SCII'IO T. QVINTIVS . C. VALERIANVS . COS. EC. T. C. FACIVNDVM . CVUAVIHr . IIDF.Ml). COMI'ROHAVEIIE. C. CIRCUS MAXIMUS. 259 that of Vesta Mater or Cybele, nor that of any other divinity to whom a temple was known to have been consecrated in this region ; it seems to me not unrea- sonable, since the round form was not peculiar to Vesta, to believe it to be one of those temples named by the Regionarics, the precise situation of which is not deter- mined for us. And amongst these I think it suitable to select that of Dis, which is registered unanimously by Rufus, by Victor, and by the Notitioe, amongst the first edifices of this reign, since the richness of the ornaments, which appears especially in the capitals and in the entablature of this temple, seem to be particu- larly adapted to the character of this divinity. But if this denomination is not suited to this temple, it will not be the only one to be proved false. The place Avhcrc this temple is situated was called by the ancients the beautiful land, and there are still found remains of large walls which supported the banks along the course of the Tiber. In these walls, at a short distance from the temple, is the mouth of the celebrated Cloaca Maxima. Temple of Forluna Virilis. With respect to the Ionic temple, now the church of S. JNIaria Egiziaca, I cannot agree with the authors of the ancient topo- grapliv of Rome, who were of opinion that this temple was that of Matuta INIater which was in the Forum Boarium ; and this Forum being situated in the Eighth region, ci^nld not reach this s])ot without interrupting the eomimiiiicalion with the Forum Olitorium that was coni})ri.sed in tliis region. I therefore think it better to retain the denomination of I'ortuna Virilis that is aene- 260 REGION XI. rally attributed to it. It docs not, however, appear to me, that the ruins that still exist can belong to the construction of that temple, stated by Dionysius to have been built by Servius Tullius near the banks of the Tiber, as the style of the architecture docs not suit that epoch, although it may be admitted that these ruins were of some posterior restoration. House of Niccolo di Lorenzo {should he Nicolas Rienzi^. Opposite this Ionic temple, and near the Palatine bridge, are remains of the house of Niccolo di Rienzi (called Lorenzo), who was Senator of Rome in the fourteenth century, which is built with fragments of various architecture, and for this reason it is commonly ranked amongst the monuments of Ancient Rome, not for its construction, but for its materials.* Forum Olitorium, or Herb Market. This Forum is usually placed without the walls of Servius towards * Canina misprints the name Lorenzo for Rienzi twice. The cold description given of the dwelling of " The friend of Petrarcli hope of Italy Rienzi, last of Romans," savours of a severe censorship. I scarcely know a spot in Rome which is calculated to awaken more stirring recollections. The house of Rienzi is patched up with materials stripped from more ancient huildings. Over an arch is a long unintelligible inscription. This quarter of Rome, containing some of its most interesting antifpiities, is generally in a state of inconceivable filth. Tlic small circular temple above described, connnonly called that of Vesta (manifestly not t/ie Temple of Vesta which was near tlie Roman Forum), is a gem in architecture, and known over I'^uropc by models and engravings. The remains of the Temple of Fortune, consisting of seven Ionic c(dunms supporting an ornamented entablature, and resting on a basement well pre- served, are very striking and, I think, beautiful. ^V. CIRCUS MAXIMUS. 261 the theatre of Marcellus on the site now called the piazza Montanara. In this locality, extending to the base of the Capitol, there exist some few remains of ancient arched works, which in past times were supposed from their great number to have formed a part of the basilica of Caius and Lucius, but without any foundation, as the style of architecture could not suit that kind of edifice : it is, therefore, more probable that they belonged to some portico situated round this Forum. Temples of Piety^ of Juno Matuta, and of Hope. In the Forum Olitorium, are generally placed the Temples of Piety,* and of Matuta, which are regis- tered by the Regionarics in this Forum, and also that of Hope,*f* which is frequently mentioned by Livy, In * The passage in Livy runs thus : " iEdes dua; eo anno dedi- catse sunt: una Veneris Erycintc ad portani Collinam. . . Altera, in foro olitorio, Pietatis. Earn sedem dedicavit M. Acilius Glabrio duumvir ; statuamque auratam, quae prima omnium in Italia statua aurata est, patri Glabrioni posuit. " Is erat, qui ipse eam sedem vovcrat, quo die cum regc Antiocho ad Thermopylas dcpugnasset : locaveratque idem ex senatus consulto." xl. 34. W. t Teinple. of Hope. This building is mentioned in various places by Livy, as in ii. 51. " Adeoque id bellum ipsis institit nioenibus, ut primo pugnatum ad Spci sit anjuo Marte, iterum ad portam Collinam." The burning of it is related in xxiv. 47. " Roma; foedum incendium per duas noctes ac diem unum teimit : solo aequata omnia inter Salinas ac portam Carmentaleni, cum iEquimoelio Jugarioque vico. In templis Fortuna; ac matris ^latuire, it Spei extra Portam, late vagatus ignis sacra prof'ana<)UC multa absum- sit." And in 1. xxv. 7, we have an account of the public re- storation of the same. " Et triumviri bini (creati sunt), uni sacris comiuirendis, donisque persignandis : alteii reliciendis cedibus Fortuna; et matris Matuta; intra Portam C'armentalem, sed et Spei extra Portam, qua; priorc anno incendio consumta' fuerani." W. M 11 262 REGION XI. the church of S. Niccolo in Carccre, are the remains of three temples placed near to each other, which are generally believed to have belonged to those named. In some excavations made a few years ago in front of that church, a large pedestal was found on the line of the middle temple, on which pedestal is supposed to have stood the gilt statue raised, according to Livy, to M. Acilius Glabrio, in front of the Temple of Piety consecrated to him by his son for the victory he gained over King Antiochus at the Thermopylae. For this reason it is that the middle temple is supposed to have been dedicated to the divinity (Piety). But this is not that temple erected under the Consuls Caius Quintius and Marcus Attilius nearly in the same loca- lity, to filial piety, on account of the well-known fact described* chiefly by Pliny under the title of Roman * Canina refers to Pliny, Nat. Hist. vii. 36. I extract the j^assage because it lays the scene of this beautiful story in the temple assigned to it by Canina, according to Pliny, and not in the temple included in the church of S. Niccolo in Carccre, where, for interested motives, it is laid by the guides and some mistaken antiquaries in Rome. ^loreover, Pliny names the mother as the object of this act of piety, which renders the story more natural and not tlie less affecting. " Humilis in plebe ct ideo ignobilis puerpcra, supplicii causa carccre inclusa matrc, cum impetrasset aditum a janitore semper excussa, nc quid inferret sibi, dcprehcnsa est uberibus suis alere cam. Quo miraculo salus matris donata filia; ])ietati est, ambtcque perpctuis alimcntis, et locus ille oidem consecratus est dc*, C. Qunctio, ]M. Attilio Coss. templo pietatis extructo in illius carcoris sedc, ubi nunc Marcclli theatrum est." Of course the temple was destroyed to build the theatre. Tiie poetical lines of Byron (who changed tlie sex of the parent) recur to the mind of every reader : " Tlie starry fable of the milky-wav, Has not this story's purity." \V. CIRCUS MAXIMUS. 26S Charity, as it is stated by the same writer that that temple was destroyed when the theatre of Marcellus was built. The Temple of Juno Matuta, which, according to Livy, was built in this Forum, and dedicated by C. Cornelius, in consequence of a vow made in the Gallic war,* seems to have been situated beside that of Piety towards the Flumentana gate, and of this temple there remain five small columns introduced in the left wall of the above-mentioned church. The third temple that stood towards the theatre of Marcellus is supposed to have been the one dedicated by Attilius Calatinus to Hope ; this Livy proves to have been situated exactly in this Forum, which was struck by lightning and after- wards burnt but subsequently restored, and after being burnt a second time dedicated anew by Germanicus under Tiberius. ]* There also remain indications of these * Temple of Juno Soxpita {called Matuta by Canina). " Con- sul (C. Cornelius) principio pugnfe vovit cedem Sospitse Junoni, si eo die liostes fusi fugatique essent. A militibus clamor sub- latus, conipotem voti consulem se facturos et impetus in liostes est factus." Livy, xxxii. 30. And the dedication of this temple is thus told us in Book xxxiv. c. 53. " iEdcs eo anno aliquot dedicatoe sunt : una Junonis Sospitsc in Foro Olitoris, vota locataque quadriennio ante a C. Cornelio consule Gallico hello ; censor idem dedicavit." It is clear from a comparison of these two passages that the reading " Junonis jNIatutJo " is wrong. It occurs in some editions in this last passage ; hut Livy expressly tells us in Book xxxii., (as above), to whom Cornelius vowed the temple, and the same man, when censor, dedicated it. The references in Canina are incorrect. W. t Tacitus has a passage in reference to the building of the temple;<, mentioned in the above account of this region. " The plan undertaken by Augustus for the building of Temples in the ruom of such as had been injured by time, or damaged by fire. 264 REGION XI. three temples on a fragment of the ancient map of Rome (xxxi) ; and in front of the middle one is marked the large pedestal found opposite the church above named, on which stood the statue of Glabrio. was now completed, Tiberius dedicated tlic various structures to their respective deities ; one near the Great Circus to Bacchus, Proserpine and Ceres, originally raised in consequence of a vow made by Aulus Postumius the dictator, a temple to Flora, near the same place, formerly dedicated by Lucius and Marcus Publi- cius, during their fedileship : another to Janus in the herb-market, founded by Caius Duillius, the first who by a naval victory added lustre to the Roman name, and triumphed over the Carthaginians. The Temple of Hope, vowed by Attilius in the same Punic war, was dedicated by Germanicus." Sec the 49th chap, of second Book of the Annals of Tacitus. W. PISCINA PUBLICA. 265 REGION XII. PISCINA PUBLICA. 1. Seven Houses of the Partliians. 2. House of Cliilo. 3- Area Radiearia. i. House of Coniificius. 5. Tcm])le of Isis Athe- nodoria. Baths of Caracalla (not in map). The twelfth region Mas called Piscina publica from a large batliing-place used as a swimming school for youth before the establishment of public baths. In length it occupied the space lying between the Cwlian and the Aventine hills, touching the limits of the second and thirteenth regions, which latter occupying those liills, bore their respective names ; but in order to give a more extensive space than that generally assigned to this region, which was occupied in a great part by the Antonine thermoc alone, it must have included that part of the Aventine which is separated (towards the east) from the Aventine hill properly so called, and where now stand the churches of S, Sabina, and of S. Balbina. Its length IVom the Circus Maximus must have reached a little beyond the south side of the Antonine baths, where the first region commenced on that side. Its circuit is fixed by Victor, and by the Notitijc at 12,000 feet, and the locality indicated nearly agrees with that measure. T/ic Balks of Caracalla, Of the Piscina publica, N 26G REGION XII. which had given its name to this region, (no indication whatever remaining at the time of Fcstus as proved by his explanation of this name,) it is now rather difficult to determine the real position. Immense and striking ruins, however, still exist of the Anton ine baths, which were built on a scale of great magnificence by the Emperor Antoninus Caracalla, and occupied a large space on the plain of the region situated between the Cffilian and the Aventine hills. These thermae were composed of extensive halls and court-yards surrounded by porticoes, which were devoted to the different kinds of baths, and to gymnastic exercises. It is also evi- dent that they were enclosed by a long line of porti- coes and exhedrae (/. e. rooms for conversations), of which there remain many ruins that excite general admiration. The plan traced in the topographical map is founded upon the excavations made some years ago by the Count Velo. In the upper part of these therma3, where water reservoirs are known to have existed, was the terminus of the aqueduct built ex- pressly to supply the quantity of water necessary for the baths, as seen by the traces that remain ; and this aqueduct in its descent from the hill, passed over the arch called that of Drusus, near which various ruins of the arches that sustained the aqueduct have been lately discovered. Seven Houses of the Partliicms. Near the north side of the entrance of the Antonine baths there are some ancient walls supposed to have belonged to a water reservoir, but from the disposition of the rooms of various forms indicated in the ruins that remain, I am PISCINA PUBLICA. 267 of opinion that they belonged to the seven houses of the Parthians registered by Victor, and by the Notitiae, immediately after the Antonine thermae, and built by the Emperor Severus,* who is supposed to have raised many ornamental edifices along the same way to present the works built by him to the view of those who visited Rome from Africa. These houses having been built at the same time evidently formed a single edifice, and the seven divisions related perhaps only to the same num- ber of entrances in the front of the building as repre- sented in the present maps of ancient Rome. Temple or Sacellum of Isis Athenodoria. In the Catalogue of Rufus, and in that of the Notitiae, the Isis Athenodoria being registered, and some inscriptions having been found relative to that divinity between the church of S. Sisto and the Antonine baths,*f" it was * Septimius Severus was himself a native of Africa, " who, in the gradual ascent of private honours, had concealed his daring ambition, which was never diverted from its steady course by the allurements of pleasure, the apprehension of danger, or the feel- ings of humanity." Having seized the supreme power, he proved a vigorous tyrant, while he affected a taste for splendour and costly buildings. W. t Inscriptions found relating to the Temple of Isis, in the locality mentioned. SAECVLO . FELICI ISIAS . SACERDOS ISIDI . SALVATOni CONSECRATIO. The second, PONTIFICIO . VOTIS ANNVANT . DII . ROMANAE . REIP. ARCANAQ. MORBIS . PRAESIDfA ANNVANT . QVORVM . NVTV uosiano . imperio . regna . cessere. n2 268 REGION XII. manifest that near these baths there stood a temple or sacellum of Isis, sumamed Athenodoria. And although this denomination be derived from Athenodorus, a cele- brated statuary mentioned by Pliny, who perhaps made the statue of this goddess, still it must be believed that there was a sacred edifice to contain it, and that it was not left in the open air as supposed by Nardini, As it is stated by Spartianus that in Rome there were various temples of Isis * built by Antoninus Caracalla, it is a further reason to suppose, that one of these was situated near his thermae. House of Chi'lo. At a short distance from these ruins towards the Circus Maximus there are remains of ancient walls, of hard brick construction, that were subsequently covered with other buildings, which seem evidently to have belonged to the house of Chilo re- gistered at this spot by Victor, and by the Notitiae. This house, as proved by Bellerio, is designated in two fragments of the ancient map of Rome (xxxvi. and XXXVII.) in which the gardens are represented, together with the house. * The Temple of Isis (a Rotundo). It was tlie Emperor Ca- racalla M"ho restored the worship of Isis in Rome, which had been abolished (it is said) with some marks of infamy by Tiberius. For a pleasant account of the occasion of it, vide Josephus, Ant. xviii. 4. The story is too long and of too peculiar a kind to give here. W. The Circus of Caracalla is a little way out of town, near the side of the Via Appia. The figure of it still remains (as do the Metce within it), but all in ruins. The obelisk, which was within it, has been set up on the fine fountain in the Piazza Navona. This Circus is said to have contained 130,0(X) spectators. W. PISCINA PUBLICA. 269 Area Radicaria. Of the area Radicaria, registered in this region by Victor, and by the Notitiae, there remains some indication in a fragment of the ancient Capitoline map (lvi). In this fragment is also united the indication of the Mutatorium, which, it has been proved, was situated in the first region, and the two regions having in common the side situated towards the Via Appia, it is evident that this area must have been placed somewhere at a short distance before coming to the Antonine baths, since beyond these baths, on this side, the first region was no longer the confine of the twelfth. The same fragment, also, indicates the way that formed the limit of the two regions. House of Cornificius. On the hill near the church of S. Balbina there exist some remains of ancient walls that supported the higher ground. On the same spot, Bufalini has marked in his map of Rome other ruins of a large building which he called the baths of Decius ; but having reason to believe that these baths were situated elsewhere, as Avill be stated in the following region, I am of opinion that here stood the house of Cornificius, registered in the catalogue of this region by Victor, and by the Notitia3. Amongst the designs for which wc are indebted to Burlington of the different Roman thermae, made with great care by Palladio, there is a part of an ancient building which, presenting a great resemblance to the indications of the ruins marked in Bufalini's map, seem to me to have been taken from these, and thus, according to the disposition deduced from these remains an idea has been p^iven of the whole 270 REGION XII. building to which these ruins belonged in the topogra- phical map.* The great interest of this region centres in the enormous ruins of the baths of Caracalla, which exceed all expectation. These prodigious thcrmfc, erected by a detestable tyrant, seem to have surpassed in magnificence all fabrics of the like kind in Rome. There were in these baths (which were open at stated hours for the service of senators and people indiscriminately) 1600 seats of marble, for those who bathed, to sit while enjoying the use of the strigil; some of these were said to have been moved to a cloister of the Church of St. John Lateran. I may add, that in the baths of Dioclesian were reckoned more than 3000 seats, and these thermae (every where erected with such boundless mag- nificence), were replenished by those stupendous aqueducts, for which Rome was distinguished above all cities. Besides the buildings which particularly belonged to the baths of Caracalla, here was a great palace built by him, and schools for all sorts of exercises, with subterranean vaults extending underneath the whole. W. THE AVENTINE. 271 REGION XIII. THE AVENTINE * 1. Temple of Diana Communis. 2. Temple of Minerva, 3. Baths of Sura. 4. The Decian Baths. 5. Temple of the Moon. 6. Temple of Juno Rcgina. 7. Temple and Atrium of Liberty. 8. The Fabarian Portico. 9. The Emilian Por- tico. 10. Granaries of Lollius. 11. Sepulchre of Caius Ces- tius. Monte Testaccio (not in map). The thirteentli region, besides the space it occupied on the Aventine liill, from which it derived its denomi- * The Aventine. The name of Mens Aventinus, has been much discussed by critics, a great variety of derivations being assigned for it. Eutropius expressly tells us that it was added to the city by Ancus Martius. " Contra Latinos dimicavit Aventinum montcm civitati adjccit et Janiculum." But A. Gel- lius asserts that tliis hill, being always reputed sacred, was never enclosed within the city till the time of Claudius. There is repeated mention of it in the Classics. " Cubat hie in Colle Quirini Hie extremo in Aventino ; Viscndus uterque : Intervalla vides humane commoda." HoR., Ep. ii. 2. 69, "Palatium Romulus, Remus Aventinum ad inangurandum tcmpla capiunt." Livv, i, " Ancus acie prinium vincit : inde, ingenti prreda potitus, Romani rcdit, turn quocjue niultis millibus Latinorum in civitatem aceeptis ; quibus, ut Jungcrcter Palatio Aventinum, ad Murcire datte i?c(Us. .Taniculum quoque adjectum." Ibid., i. 33, " lls(]uc adeo nihil est, quod nostra infantia coelum Huusit Avontini bacca nutrita Sabina ] " Juvenal, Sat. 3. W, N 4 212 REGION XIII. nation, extended also into the plain situated towards the Tiber, and is contained within the walls of Scrvius. In the centre of this region rose the Testaccio hill. Its circuit is stated by Victor to have been 10,200 feet, a measurement verified in this locality, without how- ever comprising the part of the hill branching off towards the east, which formed part of the preceding region. Temple of Diana Communis. The most renowned monument that stood on the Aventine must have been the celebrated Temple* of Diana, built by Servius Tul- * Temple of Diana " Sed et csetcros principes viros ssepc liortatus est ut pro facultate quisque monumentis vel iiovis, vel refcctis ct excultis, urbem adornarcnt. ]\Iultaque a midtis ex- stnicta sunt : sicut a Marcio Pliilippo, sedcs Hcrculis IMvisarum : a L. Cornificio, sedcs Diana;," &c. Sveton., in Augusta, 29. There were many Temples of Diana at Rome, and of this par- ticular one on the Aventine, Wright an old traveller, who visited Italv in the years 1720-22, thus speaks in his amusing book : " The Church of S. Sabina, on Mount Aventine, was once a Temple of Diana, built by Scrvius Tullius. We saw there twenty-two antique pillars, CoriiUliian, fluted, and were told that two more are concealed by some wall that has been built up there. They show a very large piece of touclistone, which the Devil (they say) threw at S. Dominic, one night, as he was praying in this church : it fell upon the pavement and broke one of the stones, which is now fixed up in the wall of the church. There is an odd sort of a picture of that Saint in a dcli- (juiinii. In one part of it is a dog with a lighted torch in his mouth ; a representation which is often repeated, particularlv in the churches of the Dominicans, and is an emblem of the Inqui- sition, or has some alkision to it : and this is the more probable, because the Inquisition is wholly in the hands of the Dominicans. There is a fine chapel in this chinch, the altar-j)iece painted by Morandi ; and another above, wjiere S. Dominic and two other siiints used to watch whole iii'_'lits in divine conversation (as, THE AVENTINE. 273 lius, at the joint expense of all the Latin cities, in imi- tation of what had been done by the lonians in building the Temple of Diana at Ephesus. This temple was rebuilt under Augustus by Lucius Cornifi- cius as related by Suetonius. Its situation is proved by some verses of Martial to have been on the side of the Aventine facing the Circus Maximus.* But consi- dering that this temple was erected in common with the Latins, and that Servius, according to Suetonius, com- posed there the laws for the Latin cities, amongst each other, it is probable -that its facade was turned more towards Latium than to the circus. Bufalini, in his map of Rome, marked the position of this temple at a short distance from the church of S. Prisca, and there, in fact, it seems to have been placed, not how- ever on the slope of the hill as supposed by Bufalini, but on the upper part, where there exist some remains of ancient walls, and precisely on the spot now a tufo cave, where some substructions of square stone and of reticular works are still seen, that must have belonged to some part of the building that was annexed to it. There also was probably discovered the room lined with gilt copper, and the pavement made with cornelian and agate, in which were found various instruments for the yays tlie inscription, in dwinis colloquiis vigiles pemoctarunt) Tlicrc is iuiotlicr wliicli was tlie chamber of Pius V., now a cliapel, &c. They sliew still some old basso-relievos which did belong to the ancient temple, re])resenting the taking of croco- diles." W. * " Quique vidct propius niagni certamina circi Laudat Aventinai vicinus sacra DianJB." Mar., vi. G4 274 REGION XII. sacrifice as related in the memoirs of Flaminius Vacca. Amongst the fragments of the ancient map of Rome there is one marked lxiii., in which is represented a temple of Minerva, with the indication of another temple adjoining it, and not of a house as stated by Bellerio, in his explanation of this fragment, on which was written the word cornifici. Knowing that this Temple of Diana was built by Lucius Comificius, I was led to believe that it represented the temple itself, and that from the name of the person who rebuilt it it was called Diana Comificia. These indications suf- fice to establish the disposition of this temple in the manner in which it is designated in the topographical map of ancient Rome, and this gives a higher degree of interest to this fragment. Temple of Minerva. The Temple of Minerva designated in the above mentioned Capitoline marble, seems to have been the one registered in the catalogue of this region by Victor with the observation of being placed on the Aventine, and, in fact, in the Notitiae Ca- talogue it is registered immediately after that of Diana. This vicinity is further proved by the inscription found amongst the ruins of the Temple of Diana respecting this Temple of Minerva Aventinensis, as stated by Fulvio Orsini in his Roman antiquities. The same inscription informs us, also, that near it was the Armi- lustrum registered in the Victor and the Notitia? Catalogues.* * The inscription attested by Fulvio, and transcribed by Grutero. LAPIS . AVSP. S. Q. CAECILIO . METEI-I-0 POM. MAX. SOLLE^INI . CVM. THE AVENTINE. 275 Baths of Sura. Near the Temple of Diana, as mentioned in the verses of Martial cited above, was the habitation of Sura, supposed to be the person sumamed Licinius, who was consul under Nerva, and repeatedly so under Trajan. In the fragment of the ancient map of Rome, Lxii, some baths are designated under the name of Sura, and these being disposed in the same manner as the ancient building whose ruins exist under the church of S. Prisca, the situation of these baths may be determined there with certainty, the more so, as in this locality they are near the Temple of Diana, and the Circus Maximus. Near these baths of Sura must have been the private house of Trajan, which is registered in Victor's Catalogue, and an inscription found near the S. Prisca church confirms its situation at this spot.* PRAECATIONE . PAL. POP. ROM. CONJECTVS IN . FVNDAMENTA . PORTIOVS . MINER AVENTINEVS . AB . LATER . COLL VIC. ARMILVSTR. D IN . NVNC . D. AVGVR , AVSPI TEMP. CONSECRA M. CAS CELL. AED. CVS C. The Armilustrum signified a review ; also a solemn feast at Rome, in which they sacrificed completely armed, " Armilustro visum est lapidibus pluere." Livy. W. * The inscription touching the house of Trajan, transcribed bv Panninius, is in the following words : HERCVLI CONSERVATORI DOMVS . VLPIORVM SACRVM M. VLPIVS VERECVNDVS. C. The Church of S. Prisca on the Aventine, here mentioned, is 276 REGION XIII. The Dectan Therma. In the difference of opinions occasioned principally by the Regionaries respecting the position of the Varian and Decian thermae, it seems to me that we may decide that the latter alone -were in this region, since, in examining the first catalogue of Victor, and that of the Notitiae, the Decian thermse only are registered ; knowing besides that the Varian were situ- ated in the Vicus Sulpicius it appears unreasonable to prolong that street to this region. Thus, these thermse, completed by Varius Heliogabalus, were not the same as the Severianae, situated in the first region, which, in the catalogue of the second Victor, are also called Varianae, but formed a distinct building, and must evi- dently have been elsewhere. In Bufalini's map of Rome, sundry ruins of the Decian thermae are noted in two places, namely, under the Santa Balbina church, and at a short distance from that of Santa Sabina ; but, considering that the situation of the Santa Balbina church formed part of the preceding region, there is still greater reason to suppose that to the Decian thermae belonged the ruins designated near the church of Santa Sabina, and as these indications resemble a plan by Palladio not completed, in the designs of the Roman thermae, and presuming that it was taken from these ruins, I have represented in the topographical map the entire disposition of these thermae, according to these notions. very ancient, and there is a tradition in Rome, that tlie church occupies the site of the house in wliicii St. Peter baptized St. Prisca. It is lieresy in Rome to doubt the assertion, changed into fact by the celebration of a festival, that St. Peter ever was in the Eternal Citv. W. THE AVENTINE. 277 Temple of the Moon. The Temple of the Moon,* registered by Victor in this region, is proved by Nardius, by some verses of Ovid, and by a passage of Livy, in which he describes a storm that happened there, to have been situated on the top of the Aventine, towards the Clivus Publicius, which led to the hill on the side of the Forum Boarium, and consequently at a short distance from the church of Santa Sabina, above those ancient walls that support the hill towards the Tiber. This opinion, being supported by evidence, has been adopted in our topographical map. Temple of Juno Regina."' Another passage of * Temple of the Moon. " Vcr procellosum eo anno fuit. Pridie Parilia, medio fermc die, atrox cum vcnto tempestas coorta multis sacris profanisque locis stragem fecit. Signa cenea in Capitolio dejecit : forem ex sede Lunse que in Aventino est, raptam tulit, et in posticis partibus Ccreris templi adfixit : signa alia in Circo Maximo cum columnis, quibus supcrstabant evertit." Livy, xl. 2. W. t Temple of Juno. Livy (xxi. G2.) recording a year of ex- traordinary prodigies, among other marvels tells us: "Et oedem Spei quae est in Foro Olitorio, fulmine ictam : et Lanuvii hastam : (scil. Junonis Sospita;) se commovisse : et corvum insedem Junonis devolasse, atque in ipso pulvinario consedisse. . . . Jam primnm omnium urbs lustrata est, liostiseque majorcs, quibus editum est, Diis ca;s3B ; et donum ex auri pondo quadraginta Lanuvium ad Junonis portatum est ; et signum ecncum matronoe Junoni in Aventino dedicaverunt." In 1. V. 22, tlie original translation of the Image of Juno from captured Vcii to Rome is graphically narrated, and the dedi- cation of this temple by Camillus, who had vowed it. " Quum jam humanre opes egesta) a Veiis essent, amoliri turn Deum dona ipsosque Deos, scd colentium magis quam rapientium modo, cffipcre ; namque delecti ex onmi exercitu juvenes, pure lautis corporibus, Candida vcstc, quibus deportanda Romam Regina Juno adsignata erat, vcnerabundi templum iniere, primo religiose 278 REGION XIII. Livy determines the situation of the Temple of Juno Regina, built by Camillus on the top of the Aventine, after the conquest of Veii, the road to which was by the Clivus Publicius, and consequently it must have stood near the Santa Sabina church, above the same ancient substructions. This part of the Aventine over the Trigemina gate, and facing the Palatine, was cele- brated amongst the ancients by the cave of Cacus,* the altar of Evander, and the Temple of Hercules, also de- nominated Victor, similar to the one in the Forum Boarium. Temple and Atrium of Liberty. In what part of the Aventine the temple and atrium of Liberty were situated, cannot well be defined ; but following the in- dications of Bufalini in his map of Rome, the position of this temple may be determined at ihe spot now occu- pied by the S. Sabina church, and the atrium on the space between this church and that of S, Alessio. When, at the instigation of Augustus, this atrium was rebuilt admoventes manus. . . . Dein quum quidam, seu spiritu divino tactus seu juvenali joco, ' Visne Romam ire, Juno]' dixisset, ad- nuisse caeteri Deam conclamaverunt : inde fabuloe adjectum est, vocem quoque dieentis ' Velle/ auditam. Motam corte sede sua parvi molimenti adminiculis, sequentis modo accepimus levem ac facilem translatu fuisse: integramque in Aventinuin, seternam sedem suam, quo vota Romani dictatoris vocaverant, perlatam, ubi tern plum ei posteaidem, qui voverat, Camillus dedicavity W. * The Cave of Cacus, SfC. For the cave of tlie monster Cacus, the altar of Hercules, &c., vide Evander's story in the well- known and splendid passage, jEneid viii. 185 272, the Aventine being the scene of the heroic exploit. " Ter totum fcrvidus ira Lustrat Avcntini montem : ter saxca tentat Limina nequidquam ; ter fessus vallc resedit.' v. 230. W. THE AVENTINE. 279 by Asinius Pollio,* a Greek and Latin library was added to it, the first devoted to public use in Rome, * Asiniut Pollio. Of this most distinguished Roman (orator, poet, historian, and no mean general) repeated mention occurs in the classics. He was the confidential friend of Augustus ; and Horace, Virgil, and Tacitus have made him immortal. " Plures hodie rcperies, qui Ciceronis gloriam, quam qui Vir- gilii dctrectent. Nee ullus Asinii aut Messalse liber tam illustris est, qnam Medea Ovidii, aut Varii Thyestes." Tacit. Dial, de Orator. 12. Then in tlie splendid passage (ibid. 25). in which the great orators of antiquity are brought together, and tlieir distinctive merits contrasted : how forcibly and in what company does he exalt the genius of Pollio. "Sed quoniodo inter Atticos oratorcs primaa Dcmosthcni tri- buuntur, proximum auteni locum iEschines, et Hyperidcs, et Lysias, et Lycurgus obtincnt ; omnium autcm consensu hajc ora- torinn rctas maxiine probatur. Sic apud nos Cicero quidem ccteros eorumlem tcmporum discrtos anteccssit. Calvus autem, et Asinius, et Caesar, et Ccelius, et Brutus, suo jure, et prioribus et sequcntibus anteponuntur : nee refcrt, quod inter se specie dif- feraiit, cum gencre consentiant. Adstrictior Calvus, numerosior Asinius, splendidior Csesar, amarior Ccelius, gravior Brutns, ve- benicntior, et plenior, et valentior Cicero ; omncs tanicn eanuleni saiiitateni c]ciqucnti;i3 ferimt," &c. Next glancing at the two great poets of the Augustan age, we have the name of Asinius Pollio transmitted in their undying verse to tlic remotest posterity as a jioet, orator, statesman, and counnandei. " Paulnm sevcriie musa tragcdiic Dosit theatris ; mox, ubi publicas lies onlinaris, gr;in(le munus Cceropio repc'tes cotliurno. N S 280 REGION XIII. and it seems to have been situated on the sides of this temple. The atrium must have enclosed the temple on the front part. There exist other remains of ancient private buildings on the Aventine, principally on the Insigne moestis praesidium rcis, Et consulenti, Pollio, curiae : Cui laurus a^tcrnos honorcs Dalinatico peperit triumplio." Hon. Od.L.ii.l. So ill Eel. viii. of Virgil, which was dedicated to Pollio, his poetic genius and warlike skill are alike lauded. " O, Pollio ! leading thy victorious bands O'er deep Tiniavus, or Illyria's sands ; O when thy glorious deeds shall I rehearse 1 When tell the world how matchless is thy verse ? Worthy the lofty stage of laurell'd Greece, Great rival of majestic Sophocles !" Warton. Quinetilian (xii. 10), discussing the (jualities of various emi- nent orators of a particular age, commends tlie diligence of Pollio. And in another memorable passage of his Institutes, he extols the invention, tiie judgment, and spirit of Pollio ; but, at the same time, declares lie fell so short of the suavity and splen- dour of Cicero, that he might well pass for an orator of a former age. After his magnificent comparison of Demostlienes and Cicero, and his vast praises of the latter, his word:> arc : " Apud posteros vero id consecutus, ut Cicero jam non hominis sed eloquentipe nomen habeatm' ! Hunc igitur spectemus : hoc pro- posituni nobis sit excmplum. Ille so profecissc sciat, cui Cicero valdc placebit. jMulta in Asinio Pollionc inventio, surnma dili- gentia : ideo ut ijuibusdani ctiam niinia videatur : et consilii et aninii satis : a nitore et jucuuditate Ciceronis ita longe abost, ut videri possit seculo prior." L. x. 1. W . THE AVENTINE. 281 slope towards Monte Testaccio, discovered in the time of Paul v., and the marbles of these ruins were em- ployed to decorate the Borghese chapel at S. Maria Maggiore. The Faharian Portico. Along the side of the hilU near the river, are ruins of ancient buildings, some of which are now used as warehouses for wood. In this place seems to have been the portico, situated near the Aventine, beyond the Trigemina gate, which, accord- ing to Livy, was joined by the Censors, Q. Fulvius Flaccus and Aulus Postumius Albinus, with the other portico, called the Emilian ; and these ruins, may be supposed to have belonged to it. This portico, being situated on the banks of the river, evidently served as a deposit of merchandise of various kinds, as proved by the large rooms that were near the hill. It is seen by the ruins that remain, that this portico was formed of several rows, and on it probably stood the house of that Faberius the scribe, who, according to Vitruvius, had the cloister walls painted with cinnabar^ from which seems to be derived the denomination given to the portico below, of Fabarius or Faberius, under which it is registered in the Victor and Notitise catalogues. The Emilian Portico. In the plain of this region, situated between the Testaccio hill and the Tiber, must have originally stood the other Emilian portico, which, according to Livy, was rebuilt by the before-named Censors. At this spot there exist remains of a large portico, but of a style of building that does not cor- respond to the times in which Livy asserts that the Emilian portico was rebuilt, for which reason, if these 282 REGION XIII. ruins belonged to the said portico, it may be supposed that it had been restored in subsequent times, or that they formed part of some addition made afterwards. A small fragment of the ancient map of Rome, xxxiv, on which is written porticvs, and under this, in larger letters, ae, is supposed to have belonged to this Emi- lian portico ; but, from the manner in which this inscrip- tion is carved on the marble, it evidently related rather to the portico of some sacred edifice or temple than to a simple portico like the Emilian, since ae are the first letters of aedes. In front of this portico was evi- dently the large area called the Emporium, which, ac- cording to Livy, was, at the time the portico was re- built, paved with stones, and surrounded with posts or low walls. The same historian further states that a flight of steps was then made that led from the Tiber to the said emporium, and probably occupied the whole line in front of the Emilian portico. Some remains of large walls, still existing along the banks of the river, must have belonged to these steps, or to the walls sub- sequently raised to close the city on this side. Thus the navalia, or the station for vessels that came up the river, are proved, by various passages in the ancient writers, to have been on this same side of the river, in front of the Emilian portico and of the emporium. The ruins of ancient walls visible in the river at low water, situated under the Priory of Malta, seem to have formed part of some enclosure built with arches, in order not to impede the course of the waters, in a man- ner similar to what was practised by the ancients in moles of ports. The fragment of the ancient map of THE AVENTINE. 283 Rome, LIU, on which is inscribed navalem fer., probably belonged to these navalia, and not to the spot supposed to have been also called Navalia, which was near the ancient Porta Romanula on the Palatine, as stated by Bellorio in his explanation of this inscription, since the fragment presents an indication of a vast area, such as must have been that of the above named navalia, and not closed within narrow limits, as was evidently the case with the one situated near the Palatine gate. Granarii Lolliani, Galbiani and Candelari. In the plain situated between the Testaccio hill and the Tiber were evidently placed the granaries registered in this region by Victor and the Notitise. In this locality Bufalini noted in his map of Rome some ruins of these edifices that existed at his time. Besides the granaries of Anicetus and of Galba, which are registered in the said Regionary catalogues, there seem also to have been those of Lollius, the disposition of which is preserved, together with that of some other private buildings, in the ancient map of Rome, xxxviii. Another fragment of the same map, xl, on which is written PREA . . . ANA, is supposed to relate to the granaries of Galba or Galbianus, registered in the Notitiae.* In ^ The following inscription relating to the granaries of Gal- bianus, has been preserved by Pauvinius : NV.M. DOM. AVG. GEMO . consehvato RI. HOUREOnVM OALBIANORVM M. LVRINVS. FORTVNATVS MAGISTER. S. P. D. D. C. 284 REGION XIII. like manner the Candelari granaries, of which some traces remain in another fragment of the map of Rome, XXXIX, also seem to have been situated here, and the arch with ancient walls still existing along the road leading to the S. Paolo gate, must have belonged to some of these granaries. Although several granaries existed in the other regions, these seem to have been in greater number, from the convenience they afforded of receiving the corn that came by the river, without any great land carriage, and for this reason the above-named granaries are believed to have been situated in this region. Before the construction of the Aurelian walls in this part of the city, these granaries were evidently placed along the banks of the river, as is in a certain manner indicated by the steps which are represented by lines along the buildings in the fragment relating to the Lollian granaries. Adjoining these granaries the forum Pistorium, registered in this region by Victor and by the Notitise, must have been situated, from the con- venience it afforded the bakers to convey the corn re- quired for their bread without too long a transport. Doliolus. The Testaccio hill existing in the middle of this plain is recognized by various writers as the Doliolus registered in this region by Victor and the Notitiae, although it is proved, principally by Marini in the acts and memorials of the Arval brothers,* that this * Arvales Fratres. Twelve priests instituted by Romulus, whose office it was to lead the victims in procession thrice about their lands in the sacrifices to Bacchus and Ceres, for plenty of bread and wine. It seems, Laurentia, the nurse of Romulus, had twelve sons, and the good woman once a year made a sacrifice for a blessing upon THE AVENTINE. 285 denomination is improper, and that the Doliolus was situated elsewhere. In fact this hill is altogether formed of fragments of earthen vases or jars used for wine, oil, and other liquors of which the ancients made a great use. The makers of these vases, evidently living at this spot, had formed there deposits of those vases and vessels that were broken. (The word dolium in the Latin signifies a hogshead, tun, or any great vessel.) Tomb of Caius Cestius. Incorporated within t]ie city walls, and near the San Paolo gate, there still ex- ists, preserved entire, a sepulchral monument, built in imitation of the Egyptian pyramids, which, by the in- scriptions on the west and east sides of the monument, is known to be that of Caius Cestius,* the fields, her twelve sons assisting always in the solemnity. Laurentia lost one of her sons, when Romulus, through respect for his nurse, offered himself to fill up the numher, and called the family party " Fratres Arvales." This order was in great repute in Rome, deciding questions of boundary, and divisions of lands. They wore on their heads, at the time of their solemnities, crowns made of ears of corn, on a tradition that Laurentia at first pre- sented Romulus with such an one. W. * C. CESTIVS . L. F. FOB. EPVLO . Pli. TR, PL. VII. VIH. EPVLONVM OPVS . ABSOLVTVM . EX . TESTAMENTO . DIKBVS , CCCXXX, AHBITKATV PONTI . P. F. CLA. MELAE . HF.REDIS . ET . POTIII . I, This C. Cestius, whose name has been ])rcserved by his pyra- midical tomb, appears, from the inscription, to have been of the Poblician tribe, a Pra'tor and Tribune. He was also one of the Epulones, consisting originally of three, whose name was derived from a custom which prevailed among the Romans of purifying the Gods by feasting tlic-ni in their temples, to which feast the statues of the Gods were br()u;,'-ht on beds. The Epulones were cliarged with the duty of providing the banquet. The pyramid, supposed to be of the age of Augustus, is 125 286 REGION XIII. Aurelian, in building the city walls on tliis side, en- closed one half of the tomb within, and left the other half without the said walls. With the tomb of Caius Cestius is completed not only what relates to the thirteenth region, but also all the part of the city ihat was situated on the left bank of the Tiber.* feet high, and 100 at the base. Tliere is in it a chamber covered with arabesques. This extrordinary pile would appear to have been completed in 330 days, and is likely to last for as many centuries to come. The situation of the pyramid increases the interest we feel in beholding so curious a memorial of republican Rome. It stands near the Protestant burying ground, where the ashes of many a noble heart repose in peace. W. * In the year 1663, when restorations were made to the sepulchre of Caius Cestius by the command of Alexander VII., there were discovered two pedestals, which, from the inscriptions carved on them, were recognised as having belonged to this tomb, and which proved the completion of the sepulchre by the heirs of Caius Cestius according to the directions of his will. M. VALERIVS . MESSALLA . CORVINVS P. HVTILIVS . LVPVS . L. JVNIVS . SILANVS L. PONTIVS . MELA . D. MARIVS NIGER . HEREDES . C. CE8TI . ET L, CESTIVS . QVAE . EX . PATRE . AD EVM . FRATRIS . HEUEDITAS M. AGRIPPAE . MVNERE . PER. VENIT . EX . EA . PECVNIA . QVAM PRO . SVIS . PARTIBVS . RECEPER. EX . VENDITIONE . ATTALICOR. QVAE . EIS . PER . EDICTVM AEDILIS . IN . SEPVLCRVM C. CESTI . EX . TESTAMENTO EIVS . INFERRE . NGN . LICVIT. The antiquary complains j ustly of the removal of tiicsc pedes- tals to the Capitoline museum. They should have been left upon the pyramid for tlie explanation of the monument on the spot. The reader must not imagine from reading the description given THE AVENTINE. 287 by Canina, that the Aventine now presents the faintest represen- tation of what it was in the days when Rome flourished. Of the porticoes, libraries, temples, and the other celebrated and magnifi- cent erections which once adorned the Aventine, scarce a trace remains, nor have their places been supplied by any modem buildings. There are a few churches without the possibility of a congregation, and a convent on the summit, tenanted by a few old and miserable monks. From the window of this convent may be had an extensive and striking view of Rome, and a part of its suburbs. The Tiber washes the base of the Aventine, and we can still recognise the ruins of the bridge which Codes defended against Porsena's host, " In the brave days of old." No where does the desolation of modern Rome appear more complete than on the Aventine. W. 288 REGION XIV. REGION XIV. TRANSTIBERINA. 1. Temple of Esculapius. 2. Temple of Jupiter, 3. Temple of Faunus. 4. Mausoleum of Hadrian. 5. Tomb of Scipio Afri- canus. 6. Area Septimiana. 7. Various Houses. The last region, called Transtiberina, from its po- sition beyond the Tiber, having a perimeter of about 33,000 feet, as registered in the catalogue of Victor, could not be comprised within the space of Transtibe- rina alone, which Avas enclosed by the Aurelian walls, but seems to have extended even to the Vatican, and to have nearly occupied the space contained within the modern walls. The Janiculum Fortress. Considering, first, what is comprised in the part of Trastevere that was added to the city by Ancus Martins, it is easy to recognise at the spot now occupied by the Church and Convent of S. Pietro in Montorio, and by the large fountain of the Acqua Paolo on the Janiculum, the situation of the fortress formed there in the early times of Rome in order nearly to separate this portion from the remainder of the hill, that it might become stronger, and serve as a defence to those who navigated the river, since, as related by Dionysius, the Etruscans, who in ancient times occupied all the country situated beyond the TRANSTIBERINA. 289 river), committed depredations on the Roman merchants. There remain, however, no traces of the walls raised in the early times of Rome to fortify this locality, and sufficient to unite it with the city ; but there are indica- tions whereby we can recognise the whole circuit of the Aurelian walls in all that part of Trastevere, at the ex- tremity of which, towards the Tiber, were the Portuensis and Septimiana gates, and in the middle, corresponding to the top of the hill, the Aurelian gate. This side of Trastevere, enclosed by walls, communicated with the city by means of two bridges. The first, the remains of which are visible at low water under the Aventine, was called by the ancients the Sublician bridge, from the wood that originally composed the upper part, and this bridge, as affirmed by Dionysius, was first built when Ancus Martins enclosed this part of the Janiculum within walls. It was on this bridge that Horatius Codes* stopped, alone, the advance of Porscnna''s army until the bridge was cut asunder by his companions. The other was called the Palatine bridge, from its vicinity to the hill of that name, and this is recognised in the one situated near the church of S, JNIaria Egiziaca, and now called l^onterotto, from its half-ruined state. Tlic indications that have come down to us of the public * "Ami still his name sounds stirring Unto the men of Rome, As the trumpet-blast that cries to thcni To charge the Volscian home ; And wives still pray to Juno For boys witii hearts as bold As iiis who kept the bridge so well In the brave days of old." Lays of Ancient Runic, bi/ jMacaui.av. W. o 290 REGION XIV. and private edifices that existed in this part of the Transtiberina region are uncertain ; it is therefore diffi- cult to fix their situation, and the more so as we have no precise information of the discoveries made in subsequent times. Naumachia of Augustus. Augustus, to exhibit naval combats to the people, excavated in the Trans- tiberina region, and in the part formerly occupied by the groves of Csesar, a Naumachia which extended in length 1800 feet, and in breadth 1200, as is distinctly regis- tered amongst the various works of Augustus in the celebrated Ancyrana inscription, and confirmed by Sue- tonius.* For the use of this Naumachia, Augustus brought from the Alsietine lake, the water so called, and also the water called Augustan from his own name, as attested by Frontinus. And as from the kind of spectacles exhibited in this Naumachia, the only form suited to such a place was that of an ellipsis, similar to that adopted in the amphitheatres, in which these naval games were also exhibited, it may be sup- posed that the above measures referred to the two axes of an ellipsis, and not to the sides of a rectangle as has been stated. The ground extending around the monastery and church of S. Cosiraato, is the space that alone presents a plain area of so large an extension as that assigned to this Naumachia. This site while it * NAVALIS . PROELII . SPECTACVLVM . POPVI.O. DEDI . TRANSTIBERI.M . IN . QVO . LOCO . NVNC. NE.MVS . EST . CAESARVM . CAVATO . SOLO . I.N". LONGITVDINEM . MILLE . ET . OCTIGENTOS . PEDES. IN . LATITVUINEM . .AIILLE . ERANT . ET . DVCENTI. Man. Ancirano, Tuv. i., Scet. in ^iti<^usto, c. 43. TRANSTIBERINA. 291 was without the circuit of the walls of Scrvius, which extended from the Tiber to the Janiculan rock, was, however, included in that of the Aurelian walls which embraced a larger space. Temple of Fortuna Fortis.* As Varro clearly fixes the situation of the Temple of Fortuna Fortis, built by Servius Tullius, outside the walls along the course of the Tiber ; and as Tacitus says that it was near the gardens left by Ceesar to the Roman people,*f- which we have already proved to have been where the Naumachia of Augustus was excavated, we may, with these indications, decide that the spot where this tem- ple stood, was in the vicinity of the Naumachia, in the space near to the S. Micliele hospital, which was beyond that part of the walls of Servius that extended to Trastevere. Isola Tiberina. Though there remain no ruins of the edifices that stood on the Isola Tiberina, comprised in this region, their position may yet be recognised by the descriptions contained in ancient authors. This island is said by Livy,| and by Dionysius, to have been * Temple named Fortis Fortuna. This is mentioned by Livv also: " iEris gravis tulit in aerarium trecenta octoginta millia : de reliquo eerc fcdem Fortis Fortuna; de manubiis faciendam loca- vit, prope tedcm ejus Dese ab rcge Ser. Tullio dedicatam." Book X. 4G and xxvii. 11. W. f " Fine anni arcus propter sedem Saturni ... et ajdes Fortis Fortuna; Tiber im juxta in hortis, quos Casar dictator populo Ko- mano Icgavcrat ; sacrarium genti Julia^, effigiesque divo Augusto f^pud Bovillas, dicantur." Tac. Annal. ii. 41. W. X Insula Tiberina. This was between the Janiculum and city. The words of Livy arc, "P'orte ibi tum seges farris dicitur fuisse matura messi ; quern canipi fructum quia religiosum crat o 2 292 REGION XIV. formed by the bundles of wheat taken from the fields of Tarquinius Superbus, which, having been thrown into the Tiber, stopped where they found an obstacle, and with the sands that accumulated by degrees, formed a solid place, which was afterwards surrounded with walls, and cut in the form of a ship, in memory of the one that brought the serpent from Epidaurus on the occa- sion of the plague that raged in the year 462 of Rome. There still remain under the church of S. Bartolomeo, ruins of the large walls that composed this enclosure. If the form given to this island was really similar to that of the vessel that brought the serpent, in ascending the river, the prow must have been turned towards the stream, that is towards the Ponte Sisto ; and, in fact, ruins of walls were visible not long ago, that were sepa- rated by the Tiber from the remainder of the island, and formed, at low water, another small island, as marked in the well-known map of Nolli. Pons Cestius. The Isola Tiberina is joined to the city and to Trastevere by means of two bridges. The one leading to Trastevere is called Cestius merely because it is registered under this denomination in the Catalogue of Victor, nor can it be ascertained pre- consumcre, descctam cum stramento scgctcm magna vis hominum simul iiimissa corbibus fudere in Tiberim, tcnui fiuentcm aqua, ut mediis caloribus solet. Ita in vadis lucsitantis frumcnti acervod sedisse inlitos limo. Insulam inde paullatim, et aliis, qufc fcrt tcmere flurncu, codom invectis, factam, postea credo additas moles, uianuquc adjutum, ut tam cmincns area, firmaquc templis quoque ac porticibus sustinendus cssct. Livy, ii. 5." W. It was afterwards called the Holy Island, from the number of temples built on it. W. TRANSTIBERINA. 293 cisely who was the Cestius that built it. The in- scriptions on the parapets of the bridge declare that it was restored or rebuilt by the Emperors Valen- tinian, Valens, and Gratianus (a. d. 364). Similar inscriptions must have been placed on the external fronts of the bridge, as proved by the following words that still remain : PONTEM . FELICIS . NOMINIS . GRATIANI. The Fahrician Bridge. The other bridge leading to the opposite part of the city was commonly called that of Fabricius, from the name existing in the following inscription engraved in large letters on the arches of the bridge : L. FABRICIVS , C. F. CVR. VIAR. FACIVNDVM. COERAVIT . EIDEMQ . mOBAVIT. Q. LEPIDVS . M. F. M. LOLLIVS . M. F, COS. EX. S. C. PROBAVERVNT. Temple of Esculapius In the catalogue of Victor three temples are registered in the Isola Tiherina ; one dedicated to Esculapius, another to Jupiter, and the third to Faunus. The first of these, called that of Esculapius, from having been raised to the serpent brought from Epidaurus, and adored as a divinity, is proved by Nardini, chiefly on the authority of the verses of Ovid, to have been situated more towards the part of the island bathed by the water than it would have been if it had stood on the ground now occupied by S. liartolomco church, as supposed by several anti- quarians.* This temple, the largest of those that were * " Qnod tameii ex ipsis liciiit milii disccre fastis, Sacravcro patrcs lioc duo tciiipla die. Accepit PliPL'bo iiympliaijue corouide natuiii Insula, dividua (juani prcinit auinis aqua." Ovid., Fasti, i. 200. C. o 3 294 REGION XIV. raised on the island, must therefore have stood in about its centre, and on tlie site facing the said churcli. Temple of Jupiter. By the verses of Ovid that fol- low those above cited, it is ascertained that the Temple of Jupiter was joined to that of Esculapius.* This junction, it seems, must be understood in the sense that these temples stood opposite to each other, and were united by a portico that formed the enclosure in front of the Temple of Esculapius, and which served to deposit the sick, and in this manner the two buildings were completely united within the same sacred precincts. Temple of Faunus. The third temple that stood on this island consecrated to Faunus, is shewn by some lines in Ovid to have been turned towards the stream, that is, to the Ponte Sisto.")* Thus the three temples occupied a distinguished position in the island in such a manner as to make it appear a noble ship. Area Septimiana. In the Victor and Notitise cata- logues the Area Septimiana is registered in this region, and in the fragment of the valuable Capitolinc marbles marked xxxv, is noted the indication of an area to- gether with that of the bridges, by which it is ascer- tained that this area must have commenced near these bridges of the Isola Tibcrina, and that it extended towards the gate of the Servian walls which was known * " Jupiter in jiarte est. Ccpit locus uiius utrumqnc, Juiictaque sunt magno tenipla iie])otis avo." Ovii)., Fuxti, i. 2!)3. C. t " I'libus aarestis funiant altaria Fauni, Hie nbi discretas insula runipit aijuas." Uvii)., Fasti, ii. I!:5. C. TRANSTIBERINA. 295 by the same denomination of Septimiana, wliere, on the authority of Spartianus, Septimius Severus erected one of the arches called Jani near the gate that took his name. Thus from the disposition of the line of walls in the Transtiberina region, and from the above-named in- dications of bridges in the plural, which could suit only those of the Isola Tiberina, it may be determined with probability that the Area Septimiana was prolonged from the Fabrician to the Janiculan bridge. Various Houses in the region beyond the Tiber. In a fragment of the Capitoline marbles, marked xiii, are traces of a spacious area, laid out in a manner which alone could leave a free course to the river ; from this it may be inferred that it was adapted to the banks of the river, and that the houses marked on it must have belonged to that part of the region that was situated along the river between the Sublician and the Palatine bridges, as seen on the topographical map. Circus of Nero. In the part of Trastevere, situated beyond the ancient walls of Aurelian, as well on the top of the hill as at its base along the river, no remains exist of any large ancient building, with the exception of the bridge that from the city served to communicate with this part of Trastevere which, according to Victor, was called by tlic ancients the Janiculan bridge, from Its leading to the Janiculum. This bridge having been re- built by Sixtus V., took its present denomination of Pontc Sisto. In the valley spreading from tlie northern extremitv of tlie Janiculum to the Vatican hill, altliough from tlie immense buildinn^s of S. Peter's Basilica erected 296 REGION XIV. there, no ruin of an ancient edifice remains ; there are yet sufficient indications to enable us to recognise the exact situation of the Circus of Caligula and of Nero at this place. It is here that the splendid obelisk brought by order of Caligula from Egypt, to adorn the square of this circus, was discovered, which, under the ponti- ficate of Sixtus v., was with such labour raised in the middle of the Piazza di S. Pietro, The inscription engraved on the obelisk, proves that it was brought to Rome by Caligula, and was consecrated to Augustus and to Tiberius. In erecting the Vatican Basilica, there were also found parts of the treble line of walls, and of the arches that sustained the seats round the circus. According to what is stated in a manuscript of Grimaldi, reproduced in the Roma Sacra of MartinelU, and repeated by various other writers, the circus was only 720 Roman palms long, and with the treble line of walls 400 palms broad; the curve at the extremity was situated towards the beginning of the steps that led to the por- tico placed in front of the primitive Basilica, and the sides reached to the church of S. Martha, where the starting places are supposed to have been. Fontana in his large work on the Vatican, proves with greater pro- bability that the curved part of this circus was situated towards the hill (and near the church of S. Martha), as frequently adopted by the ancients in similar circum- stances, and he prolonged the sides of the circus till about the middle of the Piazza di S. Pietro, rendering in this manner its proportions more uniform with those of the other circi. This greater length is also verified by taking as a fixed point the spot where the obelisk was TRANSTIBERINA. 297 found, which must evidently have been at the half of the Spina. This circus is stated by ancient authors to have been made in the gardens of Caligula and of Nero, which also contained porticoes that reached to the banks of the Tiber. These gardens seem to have been on the left side of the Via Triumphalis, which, from the neighbouring bridge, known by the same name, led towards Monte Mario. The ruins of this bridge are visible at the angle formed by the river under the hospital of S. Spirito. Cirais of Hadrian. Near the gardens above men- tioned, and on the other side of the Via Triumphalis towards the Hadrian mole, are placed the gardens of Domitian, in which there was another circus, as was seen by various excavations made under the pontificate of Benedict XIV ; there were found on this occasion some parts of the foundations and of the galleries that supported the seats, together with the position where the spina and other parts of the circus stood. This circus was built expressly, by Hadrian, for the celebration of the games on the occasion of the recurrence of the 874tli year of the foundation of Rome. It is further to be remarked, that along the western side of this circus, there was discovered part of the pavement of an ancient way which led to the Cassian and Flaminian ways, and constituted the private way called that of Hadrian, as proved by what is represented on a medal of that Emperor. Mansolcuvi of Hadrian. In the same gardens of Domitian, Hadrian built a very large mausoleum to serve as a sepulchre for his ashes, and those of the successive 5 298 REGION XIV. princes of the empire. Of this celebrated monument there remains the principal mass, which has been made a fortress of modem Rome. The architecture of this mausoleum must have presented a truly grand and noble aspect, as it consisted of a large square basement, on which were raised the peristyles composed of columns that surrounded the upper part of the monument. Some small fragments of the ancient map of Rome, IX., seem to represent the upper part of this tomb, or that of Augustus in the Campus Martius. Opposite this mausoleum, Hadrian built the majestic bridge, still serving for the communication between the town and that part of Trastevere ; from the name of that Em- peror it was called, anciently, the Elian bridge, and in modern times St. Angelo, from the denomination of the adjoining fortress. Tomb of Scipio AJricanus* Another large tomb of a pyramidal form, similar to that of Caius Cestius, but * Mabillou has published from the memoirs of the traveller of the eighth century, the following inscrijitions found in the Mau- soleum of Hadrian : IMP. CAESER . DIVl . TRAIANI . PARTHICI , FILIV3 DIVI . NERVAE . NEPOS . TRAIANVS HADRIANVS . AVGVSTVS . PONTIFF. MAXIM. TRIBVNICIAE . POTEST. XVIIII. COS. III. P. P. FECIT. In the southern part existed the inscription relating to Lucius, Elius, Aurelius Commodus, who was buried in this mauso- leum : IMPERATORI . CAESARI . DIVI . MAUCl . ANTONINVM . PII . GERMANICI SARMATICI . FILIO . DIVI , PII . NEPOTI . DIVI , IIADHIAM . PRONEPOTI. DIVI , TRAIANI . PARTHICI . AIJNEPOTI . DIVI . NERVAE . ADNEPOTI. LVCIO . AELIO . AVRELIO . COMMODO . AVGVSTO . SARMATICO. GERMANICO . MAXIJIO . BRITANNICO . PONTIFICI . MAXIMO . TRIBVNICIAE POTESTAT . XVm. IMPERAT. VIII. CONSVLI . VII. PATRI . PATRIAE. TRANSTIBERINA. 299 of larger size, existed down to the times of Alexander VI., who ordered it to be demolished in order to widen the street leading to St. Peter's, at the place situated beside the Traspontina church, as noted in Bufalini's map of Ancient Rome. By what may be inferred from a passage of Acron, the scholiast of Horace, this tomb is supposed to have been that of Scipio, surnamed Africa- nus, who was not buried in the tomb of his family, which was situated along the Via Appia near the Arch of Drusus.* In the same place stood that of Lucius Aurelius Vero : IMP. CAESARI . AVRELIO VERO . AVG. ARMENIC. MED. PARTHIC . PONTIFIC . TRIBVNIC, POT. Villi. IMP. V. COS. III. P. P. In the same part of the monument existed that of Lucius Elius Caesar, the adopted son of Hadrian : L. AELIO . CAES. DIVI . HADRIANI AVG. F. COS. II. In another part of the monument we read the following, and chiefly amongst them, the inscription of the Emperor Antoninus Pius : IMP. CAESARI . T. AELIO , HADRIANO. ANTONINO . AVG. PIO . PONTIF . MAXIM. TRIE. POT. XXIIII. IMP. II. COS. IIII. P. DIVAE . FAVSTINAE . AVGVSTAE. IMP. CAES. T. AELII . HADRIANI . ANTONINI AVG. PII. PONTIF. MAXIMI . TRIB. POT. IIII. COS. III. P. P. M. AVREUVS . FVLVVS . ANTONINVS . FILIVS. IMP. CAESARIS . T. AELII . HADRIANI . ANTONINI AVO. PII. P. P. C. * Canina cannot intend to represent tliat Scipio Africanus was buried in Home. Tlic hero having been taxed witli embezzle- ment of the public money in the wars with Hannibalj tore his 300 REGION XIV. Via Triumphalis. The above-mentioned tomb must have been situated along the celebrated Via Triumphalis, which, from the bridge known by that denomination existing at the angle formed by the river under the Santo Spirito hospital, led towards Monte Mario, evidently following the same direction as the Via Recta that crossed the Campus Martius. Along the same way, in its passage through the Vatican field, must have been the other tombs, remains of which are said to have existed till not far distant times, such as the one called that of Marcus Aurelius, and those of the Emperor Honorius and of his wife Maria. At the beginning of the ascent of the road to Monte Mario, an important inscription was found, which proved that this spot was half-way between the second and third mile of the Via Triumphalis, which must have com- menced at the Triumphal Gate of the wall of Servius Tullius, near the Forum Olitorium, and that this ascent was also called the Clivus Cinnaj. accounts before the eyes of the Roman people; then proudly sum- moned them to the Capitol to thank the Gods for the victory over Hannibal, of which that day was the anniversary. Scij)io, dis- gusted by the ingratitude of his countrymen, retired to Linterna, a small city near Cuma?, where he died ; and, it is said, a monu- ment,, in the form of a tower, was erected to his memory, with this inscription : " Ingrata patria, nee ossa Quidem mea habcs.'" W. GREEK AND ROMAN ARCHITECTURE. 301 CHAPTER XVI. Difference between Grecian and Roman Architecture. Street Architecture of Rome. Nero's projected Reforms. Had the Houses Floors, Windows, or Chimneys ? How did the People Live. Juvenal's Account of their Domestic Comforts. We have traversed the fourteen Regions of the famous city, and are amazed at the splendour of its temples, porticoes, baths, palaces. With respect to the architecture of public buildings, remarkable differences between the Grecian and Roman systems may be specified. It is asserted the Greeks were ignorant of the use of the properties of the arch in building. Had they been acquainted with so admirable an expedient, they would have used it ; and yet no ex- ample of the arch occurs in Greece before its connection with Rome. The Romans, on the other hand, seemed to have understood and availed themselves of the arch in their great works of utility, from the earliest times ; and the construction of the Cloaca maxima, already de- scribed in the reign of Tarquinius Priscus, is cited as an example to prove this. By help of the arch, the Romans could execute works more permanently useful with brick, than the Greeks without that invention could do with the finest marble. The architecture of the Greeks was peculiarly elegant in their temples, theatres, and public edifices ; while that of the Romans was coarse and mean. The Romans adopted the graceful architecture of Greece ; but it is observable and curious they did not SC2 ROMAN STREET ARCHITECTURE. relish the simple grandeur and dignified beauty of the Doric, but both at home and abroad, as we see from the remains this day, they employed the richly ornamented Corinthian order. It should be understood, that even after the accession of the emperors, Rome was built in a great measure of brick : this was the material of their greatest structures, as we see from the existing ruins of the Palatine. The Pantheon, except its portico and columns, is brick ; there were no doubt many columns of marble, also edifices partially coated with the same material, and buildings and bridges of traver- tine stone, but the material generally used was brick. Let us examine briefly what was the architecture of their streets, and the comfort of their houses. It appears, from Tacitus, that before the fire in the reign of Nero, the streets of Rome were narrow, long, and winding, and Avithout regular openings. After the conflagration, Nero designed to have the streets made wide and long, with an area before the doors of houses, and porticoes to adorn the front : what his rule was in reference to the height to which houses might be raised is not exactly known. Augustus limited the elevation to seventy feet ; Trajan, to sixty. Every house, accord- ing to Nero's project, was to stand detached, surrounded with its own enclosure. That plan was magnificent ; but Tacitus writes, that there were many advocates for the old system, as more conducive to the health of the in- habitants, because the narrowness of the streets, and the elevation of the buildings, excluded the rays of the sun ; whereas the more open space, having ncitlier shade nor shelter, left the inhabitants exposed to the intense heat of the day. ' Eranl tamcn ijia' credercnt, velcrcm i/lam ROMAN DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE. 308 formam saluhritati magis conduxisse, quoniam angustia itinerum, et altiludo tectorum non perinde solis vapore perrumperentur. At nunc patulam latitudinem, et nulla umbra defensam, graviore tEstu ardescere.'''' We may now propose these simple questions, very material to discover what the domestic comforts of the Romans were had their houses stairs, wooden floors, windows, or chimneys ? The Romans were not expert domestic carpenters or joiners. Stairs were not common, and those they did construct, inconvenient and mean: stucco was used instead of wainscoting ; and the better opinion appears to be, the masters of the world did not enjoy the luxury of floors, windows, or chimneys in their ordi- nary dwellings. It is obvious the ruins of the public buildings, baths, and temples cannot assist us in this inquiry. All English travellers visit and examine the ruins of the magnificent villa of Hadrian at Tivoli ; few investigate what its appearances represent on this question. There are no indications of windows or stairs of any size. The rooms are supposed to have been open at one end to admit light and air, the roofs to have been vaulted, with terraces above for recreation. The floors were of mosaic : this is certain, for they in part remain. It has been sensibly remarked, we can best compre- hend what the domestic architecture of Rome was by observing that of Pompeii and Herculancum, which we can see to an extent sufficient to enable us to form an opinion : luxurious and wealthy Roman nobles had houses in these dcliglitful cities, wliicli met a fate so awful. The house in Pompeii was most probably of a character similar to that in Rome, although the liabita- o 8 304- ROMAN DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE. tion of the opulent citizen in the latter city was doubt- less on a grander scale. Now those who have visited Pompeii remember the streets were narrow, fifteen or twenty feet wide at most. I might describe the base- ment stories as consisting of cells, which opening towards the streets, were used as shops ; the doors answering for windows, as may be seen in parts of Italy to this day. It does not appear there were windows to the apartments in Pompeii ; the floors were of mosaic, coarser or finer, according to the wealth of the owners. They did not evidently understand the application of timber to the purposes of flooring. During several months of the year, timber flooring would be just as necessary in Italy as in England, and accordingly is so used at the present time. The roofs of the houses in Pompeii and Herculaneum were all destroyed, so we cannot ascertain their structure. The rooms in Pompeii, for sleeping and ordinary purposes, seem to have been generally without windows, so that sufl&cient light was possibly wanted to enjoy the elegant drawings on the walls. But, although the manufacture of glass was known to the Romans, and it has been discovered, I believe near Naples, in ruins of old buildings and even tombs, yet it has never been proved the Romans were accustomed to use glass windows as we do, to exclude air and admit light. There were found, it is asserted, two glass windows (one of them being very curious and elaborate) in Pom- peii, but it is not pretended such windows were generally in use. What a prodigious distinction does not the use of glass alone make between our comforts and the boasted enjoyments of the most luxurious of the ancients ! WANT OF CHIMNEYS. 305 Ijastly, had the houses chimneys ? No traces of such appeared in Herculaneum or Pompeii, but the braziers, by means of which the apartments were heated, were discovered in the ruins ; and it is believed that fires for culinary purposes were contained in gratings over a sort of stove, but without flues, and that charcoal was alone employed for domestic uses. If we direct our attention to Ancient Rome, we find this homely question fully discussed, in a curious and learned essay in the German Professor Beckman's " History of In- ventions ;" * and the result of the inquiry seems to be that the Romans, in their common dwelling-houses, had not the comfort of chimneys, that is funnels in the walls, for conveying the smoke from the fire-place through the different stories to the summit of the edifice. It does appear strange that so great a people should not have devised means to keep their splendid dwellings and costly furniture free from smoke. The classical refer- ences of the professor are copious and instructive : he naturally relics on the directions of Columella to make the kitchens so high that the roofs should not catch fire, as proof that there were no funnels ; nor does he forget the adventure (tending to the like proof) which befel the landlord at Benevcntum, when providing the en- tertainment for Maecenas and his delightful party, so humorously narrated by Horace : "f* " At our next inn our liost was almost burn'd, While some lean thrushes at the fire he turn'd ; Through his old kitclien rolls the god of fire, And to the roo/'the vagrant flames aspire. But hunger all our terrors overcame, We fly to save our meat, and qucncli tlie flame." * Translated by Jolmson. f Fifth Satire, 1st book. I might add from the same satire u 9 806 WANT OF CHIMNEYS. Had there been chimneys in the Roman houses, Vi- truvius would not have failed to describe their construc- tion. He does not say a word on this subject ; neither does Julius Pollux, who carefully collected the Greek name of every part of the dwelling-house ; and Gra- paldus, who in later times made a like collection of the Latin terms, has not given a Latin word expressive of a modem chimney. Caminus, signifies a furnace, a smith's forge, or a hearth for the portable stove. The wood was lighted in the stove, and carried into the apartments ; and the traveller remembers this offensive practice exists in Italy to the present day. There are, in the Pope's palace in the Quirinal, many chambers heated only in this manner. The practice is general in Ancona, where funnels are not common ; and therefore we may infer the custom was universal amongst the ancients. On me the charcoal braziers always had a stifling effect, in so much that I could never endure the chimneyless apartments in which they were used. Coals, Winkleman writes, were found in some of the rooms in the city of Herculaneum, but no chimneys. The preponderance therefore of our domestic enjoyments in our dwellings over the proud Romans appears to be immense ; and we can under- stand, having such cheerless, smoky habitations, why the mass of the people rushed to the Forum, public theatres, porticoes, and why they required the frequent use of the bath. Street architecture, as we understand it, was un- known amongst the Romans, they bestowed all their taste and splendour to their public buildings and their tombs. It is difficult to believe Nero's magnificent plan of " lacrvmoso non sine funio Udos cum foliis ramos urentc Caminoy W. WANT OF DOMESTIC COMFORTS. 307 of widening the streets, and building spacious houses of a moderate height, could ever have been accomplished. Juvenal lived long after the reign of that monster ; and we have, in his " Third Satire," a graphic picture of the vices of the rich and wretchedness of the poor, espe- cially in their dwellings, which were expensive and miserable : " Magno hospitium miscrabile, magno Servorum, ventres, et frugi coentila magno." " At Rome 'tis worse, where liouse-rent by the year, And servants' bellies cost so dev'lish dear, And tavern bills run high for hungry cheer." He exhorts the poor to emigrate from Rome, where all live in " ambitious poverty." The lines following " Qids timet, aut thnuit,'''' show clearly the perilous con- dition of the habitations in which the poor dwelt : " Wlio fears in country towns a house's full, Or to be caught betwixt a riven wall ? But we inhabit a weak city here, Which buttresses and props but scarcely bear, And 'tis the village mason's daily calling To keep the world's metropolis from falling, To cleanse the gutters, and the chinks to close. And for one night secure his lord's repose. At Cumf we can sleep (juite round the year, Nor falls, nor fires, nor nightly dangers fear; U'hile rolling flames from Roman turrets fly. And the pale citizens for buckets cry. That the houses were dear and dark, wc may collect from the lines, ^'' Si potes avclli Circensibus :'''' " But, could you be content to bid adieu To the dear jday-house, and the players too, Sweet e(nmtry-seats are purcliased cv'ry where. With lands and gardens, at less price tlian here Vou hire a darksome dotr-hole bv the vcar." 308 WANT OF DOMESTIC COMFORTS. That the streets were narrow and noisy, we are also assured by the same poet : " What house secure from noise the poor can keep, When e'en the rich can scarce aiFord to slecj) ? So dear it costs to purchase rest in Rome, And hence the sources of diseases come. The drover who his fellow-drover meets In narrow passages of winding streets, The waggoners that curse their standing teams. Would wake cv'n drowsy Drusus from his dreams." That the furniture in such dwellings was miserable we could guess, even had we not the feeling description of Codrus, the starved poet, and his little wife : " Codrus had but one bed, so short, to boot, That his short wife's short legs hung dangling out." It is impossible not to be affected with compassion for people so unpleasantly situated ; and, certainly, if there be as much truth as satire in the masterly de- scription of Juvenal, the condition of the bulk of the inhabitants in Imperial Rome must have been wretched. VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. 309 CHAPTER XVII. SKETCH OF THE VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. " The City that, by temperance, fortitude, And love of glory, towered above the clouds. Then fell Still o'er the mind maintains, from age to age, Her empire undiminished." We have contemplated Rome in her glory and during the period of her decay. Let us glance briefly at the vicissitudes of the Eternal City. The conversion of the Emperor Constantino, and the removal of the seat of empire to the banks of the Bosphorus, necessarily caused the desertion and neglect, as the subsequent downfall of the Western Empire accelerated the destruction of Rome. The principal edifices added to the city, after Constantine embraced Christianity, were churches, some of which were built out of the materials of ancient Pagan temples and of the glorious fabrics of the Empire ; others were formed by the alteration of the Imperial Basilicas, fabrics anciently used as halls of justice and commerce. The name Basilica is now confined to seven churches, all said to have been founded by this Emperor, namely St. Peter's, St. John Lateran, Santa Maria Maggiore, and Santa Croce in Gerusalemme within the city, with San 11 810 VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. Paolo, San Sebastiano, and San Lorenzo, beyond the walls.* The Chevalier Bunsen has written a profound book on the Basilicas of Christian Rome, which casts a new light on the history of the early Christians. By exami- nation of these ecclesiastical fabrics, we might, with tolerable accuracy, discover the idea which the Chris- tians of the first centuries had formed of a church. The Basilica was derived from the Greek, adopted by the Romans, and converted into a place of worship by the Christian world. There was at first the Portico, Greek (this appears from the descriptions by Canina) ; secondly, there was the Roman Hall of Justice and the Exchange, a popular building resorted to by the people for law and commerce. And lastly, we have this build- ing converted into the earliest place of worship of the Christians. The form may be understood by examining such a Basilica as Maria Maggiore. The avenue in the centre, now the nave, divided by two rows of columns from the side aisles ; then an avenue which crossed the other in the centre, or nearly so ; this must have been the middle of the Roman Hall of Justice : and here is now what is called the Altar, where originally stood the table of Communion partaken of by the whole congre- gation, clergy and people. The building terminates by a semicircular recess, called the tribune, where the Roman Praetor, for convenience and dignity sat on an elevated bench, the judgment-seat ; and here the Chris- tians having adorned the tribunal with representations in mosaic of sacred subjects, properly placed their bishop. * Nine Basilicas are described by Canina in Ancient Rome. VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. 311 The additions to the public buildings of Rome for some centuries consisted, as I have said, of churches, the numbers being computed to be, new churches in the fifth century, 36 ; in the sixth, 4 ; in the seventh, 17 ; in the eighth, 12 ; in the ninth, 14. Misery and wretchedness, unequalled in the history of the world, overspread Italy in the last age of the Empire. That beautiful and fertile country was almost reduced to the condition of a desert. As to the city of Rome, it is commonly supposed the hostile attacks of the Barbarians had the greatest effect in destroying the memorials of its ancient splendour ; but a few dates dispel this misconception. The Goths evacuated Rome on the sixth day after they had taken it, the Van- dals the fifteenth, and though it be far more difficult to build than to destroy, their hasty assaults would have made a slight impression on the solid piles of anti- quity. "Alaric and Genseric affected to spare the buildings of the city. They subsisted in strength and beauty under the auspicious government of Theodoric, and the momentary resentment of Totila was disarmed by his own temper, and the advice of his friends and enemies." * The time of the barbarians was precious ; gohl and silver, and valuable portable articles, were the natural objects of their booty ; a more certain cause of de- struction than their sudden assaults, was the supplying Charlemagne and Robert of Sicily witli the marbles of Rome for their palaces in Aix la Chapelle and Naples. During the tenth, eleventh, and twelfth centuries, Gibbon. 12 812 VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. the city consisted of churches and monasteries, and huge unshapely towers, or strongholds of the nobility. A ferocious aristocracy created some new fortresses, but generally seized on the noblest architectural buildings of the Empire, whether of ornament or utility, and con- verted them into places of strength or attack during their bloody feuds. These men had no respect for the living nor reverence for the dead ; monuments of the piety of other ages, tombs and sepulchres they dese- crated and abused. A huge ugly tower, called Tor di Centi, exists still at the side of the Quirinal, which gives a good idea of the edifices erected in these ages. Pausing in our brief sketch of the twelfth century to discover what existed then of the remains of anti- quity, we find a description of the city written about the year 1 200, referred to by the author of the Decline and Fall, entitled " Liber de mirabilibus Romce,^ in which this " barbarous topographer," as Gibbon styles him, describes and enumerates, seven theatres, eleven baths, twelve arches, and eighteen palaces, as then existing.* It is apparent, therefore, writes the historian, that many stately monuments of antiquity survived till a late period, and that the principles of destruction acted with vigorous and unceasing energy in the thir- teenth and fourteenth centuries. The incessant and sanguinary feuds of the detestable nobles with each other and with the people, were the principal causes of the ruin of the massive architectural remains which till then had existed * Hobhousc questions the accuracy of this statement, page 139 of the " Historical Illustrations." VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. 313 " In comparing (says Gibbon) the days of foreign, with the ages of domestic hostility, we must pronounce that the latter have been far more ruinous to the city; and our opinion is confirmed by the evidence of Petrarch. ' Be- hold,' says the Laureat, ' the relics of Rome, the image of her pristine greatness ! neither time, nor the barbarian, can boast the merit of this stupendous destruction : it was per- petrated by her own citizens, by the most illustrious of her sons ; and your ancestors (he writes to a noble Annibaldi) have done with the battering-ram, what the Punic hero could not accomplish with the sword.' " * Add to the above-mentioned causes the operation of fire, inundations, and earthquakes, and our surprise may well be excited that even so much has remained to us of the buildings of the imperial times. " The art of man is able to construct monuments far more permanent than the narrow span of his own existence, yet these monuments, like himself, are perishable and frail; and, in the boundless annals of time, his life and his labours must equally be measured as a fleeting moment ;" A just and beautiful reflection of the historian. The ecclesiastical Rome of the middle ages was ruined during the period (from 1^76 to 1376) in which the popes abandoned the city, and fixed their seat at Avignon, when the population amounted only to 30,000 people. " The Rome of the lower and middle ages was a mass of irregular lanes, built upon, or amongst ruins, and sur- mounted by brick towers, many of them propped on ancient basements. The streets were as narrow as those of Pompeii * Vol. xii. p. 417. 314 VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. or old Rome ; two horsemen could with diflSculty ride abreast." * Let us now turn to the description of this period, by the masterly pen of Ranke : " Our minds are familiar with the grandeur and magni- ficence of Ancient Rome, which the remains of ai"t, and the records of history, have been explored to bring before us, nor did her glories in the middle ages deserve less attentive research. This second Rome was august with the majesty of her Basilicas, the religious services of her grottoes and catacombs, the patriarchal temples of the popes (in which the relics of the earliest Christianity were preserved), the still splendid imperial palace which belonged to the German Kings, and the fortified castles raised by independent clans, as if in defiance of the numerous powers by which they were surrounded. During the absence of the Popes in Avignon, this Rome of the middle ages had sunk into equal decay with that Ancient Rome which had so long Iain in ruins. " When Eugenius IV. returned to Rome in the year 14-43, it was become a city of herdsmen ; its inhabitants were not distinguishable from the peasants of the neigh- bouring country. The hills had long been abandoned, and the only part inhabited was the plain along the windings of the Tiber ; there was no pavement in the narrow streets, and these were rendered yet darker by the balconies and buttresses which propped one house against another ; the cattle wandered about as in a village. From San Sil- vestro to the Porta del Popolo, all was garden and marsh, the haunt of flocks of wild ducks. The very memory of an- tiquity seemed almost effaced ; the Capitol was become the Goats' Hill, the Forum Romanum the Cows' Field ; the strangest legends were associated with the few remaining monuments." * Hobhouse's Illustrations. VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. 315 It was in the reign of this Pope Eugenius that the learned Poggius visited Rome, and seated on the Capi- toline hill in melancholy musings, composed what Gib- bon calls an elegant moral lecture on the vicissitudes of fortune. Surely no work of modem travels contains a passage equally beautiful and affecting ; it is, more- over, the description by an eye-witness of the aspect of the city in the fifteenth century. " Her primseval state, such as she might appear in a remote age, when Evander entertained the stranger of Troy, has been delineated by the fancy of Virgil, This Tarpeian rock was then a savage and solitary thicket : in the time of the poet, it was crowned with the golden roofs of a temple ; the temple is overthrown, the gold has been pillaged, the wheel of fortune has accomplished her revolution, and the sacred ground is again disfigured with thorns and bram- bles. The hill of the Capitol, on which we sit, was formerly the head of the Roman empire, the citadel of the earth, the terror of kings ; Illustrated by the footsteps of so many triumphs, enriched with the spoils and tributes of so many nations. This spectacle of the world, how is it fallen I how changed I how defaced I the path of victory is obli- terated by vines, and the benches of the senators are con- cealed by a dunghill. Cast your eyes on the Palatine Hill, and seek, among the shapeless and ernormous fragments, the marble theatre, the obelisks, the colossal statues, the porticoes of Nero's palace : survey the other hills of the city, the vacant space is interrupted only by ruins and gardens. Tlie Forum of the Roman people, where they assembied to enact their laws and elect their magistrates, is now enclosed for the cultivation of pot-herbs, or thrown open for the reception of swine and buffaloes. The public and private edifices, that were founded for eternity, lie prostrate, naked and broken, like the limbs of a mighty p2 316 VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. giant ; and the ruin is the more visible from the stupendous relics * that have survived the injuries of time and fortune." Thus we have before us a faithful description of Rome nine hundred years after the fall of the Western Empire. Pope Nicholas having regained the obedience of all Christendom, conceived the idea of employing the wealth he had acquired by the concourse of pilgrims to the jubilee, in adorning Rome with such buildings as that all should instantly perceive and acknowledge that it was indeed the capital of the world. This, however, could not be accomplished by the labours of any one man. Much was done by the warrior Julius II, who as- cended the papal throne in 1503. Under his reign, the lower city which had retreated to the banks of the Tiber, was completely restored. * These relics are minutely described by Poggius. Besides a bridge, an arch, the pyramid of Cestius, and a sepulchre, he discovered a double row of vaults in the Capitol, bearing the name of Catulus : eleven temples were in part discernible, " from the perfect form of the Pantheon, to the three arches, and a marble column of the (so called) Temple of Peace, which Ves- pasian had erected after the civil wars and the Jewish triumph." The Triumphal Arches of Titus, Severus, and Constantine, were entire, the Columns of Trajan and Antonine, were still erect, " but the Egj'ptian Obelisks were broken or buried." Of the vast and splendid public baths (Thermae), few presented any per- fect remains ; but those of Diocletian and Caracalla still retained the names of their founders, while those of Constantine, Alex- ander and Domitian, were traceable. The Mausoleum of Au- gustus and Hadrian survived; the former as a mound of earth, the latter, as a modem fortress, under the name of the Castle of St. Angelo. VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. 317 The communication between the banks had been im- proved by the bridge built by Sixtus IV., and buildings increased on both sides. "On the southern side (writes Ranke) Julius did not rest satisfied with the project of the Church of St. Peter, which arose majestically under his direction, he also restored the palace of the Vatican. He erected the Loggie, a work of consummate beauty of conception. Not far from hence his cousins, the Riari, and his treasurer, Agostino Chigi, rivalled each other in the beauty of the houses they con- structed ; that of Chigi, the Famesina, admirable for the per- fection of its plan, and decorated by the matchless hand of Raffaelle is unquestionably the superior. On the northern side of the river posterity is indebted to Julius II. for the completion of the Cancellaria, with its cortile, executed in those pure and harmonious proportions which render it the most beautiful court in existence. His cardinals and barons emulated his example ; Famese's palace has acquired the reputation of the most perfect in Rome, from its vast and magnificent entrance ; Francesco de Riaro boasted that his would stand till tortoises crawled over the face of the earth ; while the Medici filled their abode with every treasure of literature and of art, and the Orsini adorned theirs, at Campofiore, within and without with statues and pictures. Foreigners (says this graphic writer) do not always devote the attention they deserve to the remains around Campofiore and the Piazza Famese, belonging to this splendid period, which so boldly entered the lists with antiquity. It was a period of emulation, genius, fertility, universal prosperity. As the population increased buildings arose on the Campo Marzo and around the mausoleum of Augustus." Many other great improvements were also made, as might be supposed, under Leo X. " The ruins of Rome were regarded with a kind of reli- 318 VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. gious veneration ; in them the divine spark of the antique spirit was recognised with a sort of rapture. That pope lis- tened to the recommendation to preserve those things which are all that remain of the ancient mother of the glory and the greatness of Italy." The city of Rome had recovered much of its splen- dour and great wealth when it suffered the siege and more terrible occupation by the troops of Charles V., under Clement VII., in 1527 : this is an important era in the annals of destruction. The details of this siege have been already given in the sketch drawn up of the Medici. Enough to say, never did a richer booty fall into the hands of a more remorseless army ; never was there a more protracted and more ruinous pillage. The remark of Sir J. Hobhouse upon the narrative of this sack of Rome, is not a little curious, and seems un- founded. " The sack of Rome by the troops of Charles V. has been loudly proclaimed more detrimental than that of the Goths. The complaint, however, comes from those who thought no hyperbole too extravagant to heighten the picture of that calamity." We have three accounts by celebrated historians, of the siege of Rome, by the troops of Charles, agree- ing as to the ruinous consequences of that event to the city, Robertson, Gibbon, and Ranke, the last in- ferior to neither of our English historians in ability or research, writes : " The splendour of Rome fills the beginning of the six- teenth century, it marks the astonishing period of develop- ment of the human mind, with this day it was extinguished for ever." VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. 319 The passage from Guiccardini, cited by Sir J. Hob- house in his note, is decisive to shew that many statues, columns, precious ornaments, and memorials of antiquity were destroyed.* It is impossible to believe the solid remains of the fabrics of old Rome could have escaped uninjured, the pope himself was besieged in the tomb of Hadriaii, then the castle of St. Angelo. After this tempest of destruction had swept over the city, in 1559, Pius IV. laboured in the work of im- provement and restoration. He conceived the project of building again on the deserted hills. He founded the palace of the Conservatori, on the Monte Capito- lino. On the Viminale Michael Angelo constructed, by his order, the magnificent church of Santa Maria degli Angeli, out of the ruins of the baths of Diocle- tian. The Porta Pia on the Quirinale also attests his useful labours. The historical illustrations of the fourth canto of " Childe Harold," a valuable and ingenious book, the last chapter of " Gibbon's History," chapter viii. of the second volume of Mr. Spalding's " Italy," and the first volume of " Rankc's History of the Popes," furnisli much instructive matter upon the subject of this chapter. Whether Hobliouse's criticism on the last chapter of Gibbon be correct, namely, that it should have been " his first composition written while his memory was freshly stamped with the image of the ruins which inspired his immortal labours," I shall not presume to say, although the historian's facts are gene- rally admitted to be accurate, while his reasoning is often ques- tionable, and his sneers detestable ; but, undoubtedly the tra- veller, who bends his steps to Rome, should read the last chapter of " The Decline and ViiW''' first, and carefully, as he will not procure it, nor any of tlie books of I have referred to, excepting perlia))s Mr. Sjxilding's, iu Rome, unless tlie government of the Pope has been radically reformed or radically abolished. W. 4 320 VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. " These were, however, but vain labours, so long as the hills were without water," We now arrive at the latest epochs of importance in the history of the city, namely, the reign of Pope Sixtus V. He ascended the Papal throne in 1585, and his name has been stamped on the memories of men. The period here referred to must be clearly pre- served in our minds, for this extraordinary pope, while he imitated the useful magnificence of the emperors, retained in some things the perverted taste of a monk. He improved Rome vastly, while no Goth ever enter- tained so deadly a hatred towards the glorious remains of antiquity. What can be more terse or characteristic than the description of his architectural reforms by Ranke ? He resolved to supply the city with water by means of colossal aqueducts. " He did it," as he said, " in order that these hills which even in early Christian times were graced with Basilicas distinguished for the salubrity of the air, the pleasantness of the situation, and the beauty of the views might be once more inhabited. We have, therefore," adds he " suffered ourselves to be deterred by no difficulty or expense," In fact, he told the architects from the very be- ginning, that he would have a work which might com- pete with the magnificence of Imperial Rome. For a distance of twenty-two miles from the Agro Colonna, in despite of all obstacles, he conducted the Acqua Martia partly underground, partly on lofty arches to Rome. At length the pope had the lively satisfaction of seeing a stream of this water flow into his own vineyard : he carried it onward to Santa Susanna on the Quirinale, VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. 3:^1 calling it after his own name, Acqua Felice, and it was with no slight self-complacency that he erected in com- memoration of his success, a statue of Moses striking the rock. This aqueduct was a work of the greatest utility, not only to that district, but to the whole city. The Acqua Felice gives 20,537 cubic metres of water in twenty-four hours, and feeds twenty-seven fountains. The buildings on the heights now pro- ceeded with great activity, which Sixtus stimulated by the inducement of peculiar privileges. He levelled the ground around Trinita de' Monti, and laid the foundations of the flight of steps to the Piazza di Spagna, which forms the shortest communication between that height and the lower city. Here he laid out Via Felice and Borgo Felice, and opened the ways which still lead in all directions to Santa Maria Mag- giore ; intending to connect all the basilicas with that church by spacious streets. " Rome nearly doubled her size, and sought again her old abodes." He differed from his predecessors utterly as to the value of Roman architecture : " The Franciscan had no sense which could apprehend the beauty of the remains of antiquity. The Septizonium of Severus, a most remarkable work, which had survived the storms of so many centuries, found no favour in his eyes. He utterly demolished it, and transported some of its pillars to St. Peter's. He was as rash and reckless in destroying as he was zealous in building, and it was universally feared that he would observe no moderation in either. He said he would clear away the ugly antiquities, but would restore the others which stood in need of restoration. Will it be believed which he thought ugly ? The tomb of Ccecilia 322 VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. Metella, even then the only considerable vestige of republican times, an admirable, sublime monument, he had doomed to utter demolition. What may he not have destroyed ? " The following sentences exhibit the genius of the monk in the highest perfection : " He could hardly bring himself (continues the historian), to endure the Laocoon and the Apollo Belvidere in the Vatican ; nor would he even suffer the statues with which the citizens of Ancient Rome had adorned the Capitol, to remain there ; he declared he would pull down the Capitol if they were not removed. " They were Jupiter Tonans between Apollo and Minerva, of which the two former were in fact removed ; the Minerva alone was suffered to remain, but under the character which Sixtus chose to impose upon her, viz., that of Christian Rome. He took away her spear and substituted for it an enormous cross. In the same spirit he restored the pillars of Trajan and Antonine; from the former he caused the um to be taken away, which was said to contain the ashes of the Emperor (oh sacrilege !) this he dedicated to the Apostle Peter, and the other to the Apostle Paul ; and from that time the statues of the two apostles have stood opposite to each other on this airy height, overtopping the houses. Sixtus imagined that he thus gave a triumph to the Christian faith over Paganism." Pope Sixtus was zealous in the erection of the obelisk in the front of St. Peter's, because he wished to see the monuments of impiety subjected to the cross, 071 the very spot where once the Christians suffered the death of the cross. This was quite characteristic of the man. To raise this immense obelisk entire from its pros- trate condition near the sacristy of the old cliurch, was VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. 323 a labour of immense difficulty. Nine hundred men were engaged in executing the task, and they began by hearing mass. There were thirty- five windlasses : two horses and ten men worked each. They were turned at the signal by trumpet. The weight of the obelisk was a million Roman Pounds. It was then let down on rollers and conveyed to its new destination in the Piazza of St. Peter's, where it was erected on Wednes- day, 10th September, which the Pope regarded as a luckr/ day. Its height is 182 feet. Fontana, the architect, availed himself of the description by Am- mianus Marcellinus, of the last raising of an obelisk. The Pope declared he had succeeded in the greatest human enterprise had medals struck and poems written to commemorate the event. He put an inscrip- tion upon it, boasting he had wrested this monument from the Emperors Augustus and Tiberius, and devoted it to the Cross enclosing on its summit a piece of the wood of the true cross, I ought to add, several of the obelisks now forming such striking ornaments of Rome, were elevated by Sixtus v., namely, the obelisk opposite the church of St. Maria Maggiore, also that near St. John Lateran, and the graceful obelisk covered with hieroglyphics standing in the Piazza del Popolo, a wonderful me- morial of antiquity, and brought to Rome from Egypt by Augustus Ciosar.'" * It was placed by liim in the Circus Maximus, and dedicated anew to the sun. An inscription is here given, wliich was affixed on its erection by Sixtus Quintus, alluding to its ])osition before the Church of S. Maria del Popolo, " Ante sacrain illius trdim angmtior lutianjuc su7g<>, ctijus ex utcro Virginali, Aug. impoante sol juslilitc ixoi'/us est." p G 321- VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. As to the improvements of Pope Sixtus. Tlie cupola of St. Peter's was still wanting, and the builders re- quired ten years for its completion. Sixtus was willing to furnish money for this purpose, but on condition that he might feast his eyes on the perfect work. He set 600 men to work and allowed no intermission day or night, in twenty-two months it was finished ; the leaden covering to the roof was the only part that he did not live to see. Thus it appears this Papal despot destroyed the finest remains of antiquity, while he effected many of the most useful improvements in modern Rome. The condition of the city in the reign of Alexander VII., in 1656, was still for the mass of the inhabitants miserable enough narrow^ unventilated lanes, with mal-ordinate casaccie for the people, in contrast with sumptuous palaces for the nobles. The whole of the present Piazza del Popolo was choked Avitli wretched buildings ; the useful was neglected what was osten- tatious preferred. Luckily the Queen of Sweden paid a visit to this Pope ; it was essential that there should be a grand passage for her majesty, whereby to enter the capital of the Christian world, so the present spacious piazza was the result. Pius VI. did something, Pius VII. more, to- wards the improvement and embellishment of the city. There is a later epoch in the history of the citv which requires particular attention, namely, the period of the occupation of Rome under the dynasty of Napoleon, I'his continued from the year 1800 to VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. 32o 1814 about four years, and it is important to under- stand correctly in what state the ancient monuments and other remarkable buildings of Rome then were, and what, if anything, was done for their conser- vation or restoration. Several English travellers, from Mr. Eustace down, have indulged in severe re- flections or unmeasured abuse on the French nation and government in respect of their treatment of Italy, by them unjustly conquered and rapaciously plundered. Let us briefly but impartially inquire what, if any- thing, was accomplished by the French for the benefit and improvement of the city of Rome, while held by the tenure of the sword. We have, fortunately, the materials before us in the clear and accurate publication of the Count do Tour- non, from whence much valuable information is to be derived. The tenth chapter, fifth book of the second volume treats of this matter. Napoleon's prefet thus gives his reasons for entering on the subject : " Auctine inscription li' indiquant au voyageur notre trace a Rome, et menie quelquefois des marbres courtisans pouvant Vinduire en erreur, il est utile de faire la part de cliacun avant que le temps ait tout confondii et tout fait ouhlier, et pendant que les temoins existent et jyeuvent rendre justice d, qui elle est due.'' " The occupation of Rome by the French (he writes), lasted from 1809 to 1814, an occupation which, apart from its flagrant injustice, and the perverse and angry policy which counselled it, was at least orderly in its proceedings, and frequently benevolent towards the country, very dif- ferent in this respect from the ' irruption spoliatrice el rcvo- lutionnairc qui eut lieu en 17f)S S26 VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. This is candid writing. The prefet adds, and I believe with perfect truth, " If, during that first invasion, Rome paid a portion of the tribute imposed by the conqueror in the sacrifice of her statues and of her most precious pictures, during the second occupation Rome witnessed not only the rehgious preserva- tion of what had been left her, but also the watchful care of the government for the restoration of her ancient monuments a foreign administration which afforded the rare spectacle of ruling the conquered in the same impartial spirit as the mother-country." This author adopts a natural division of tlie ancient monuments in Rome and the provinces, namely, those in ruin, those still preserved, and, as to the modem edifices, those applied to purposes sacred or profane. The monuments immediately around Rome wliich merited peculiar care were the tomb of Cascilia Metella, the Circus of Caracalla, the Temples of the Muses, and others. The French having examined the state of these monuments in the Campagna, and allotted certain funds towards disengaging the Temple de la Sibijlla Tibia-- tina, concentrated all their energy upon the antique monuments within the city. These were, so to speak, heaped in the double valley which extends from the Capitoline to the Esquilinc Mount, in this narrow space, Avhicli was the centre of the Roman power, " oH furent en un mot le noble siege dii patricial Parene popu- laire, et le theatre des fureurs impertales."^* "There, in a space of 700 yards long and GOO broad, after 2000 years, and twenty sackings, are still standing the re- * The following jmssages are translated from tlic Count do Tournon's book. VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. 327 mains of the Capitol, and those of the Temples of Jupiter Tonans, of Jupiter Stator, of Concord, of An- toninus and Faustina, of Romulus, of Peace, of Venus and Rome, of Vesta, and of Fortuna Virilis ; the arches of Septimius Severus, of Titus, of Constantino, and of Janus ; the column of Phocas, the palace of the Cassars, the baths of Titus, the grand Circus, and the prodigious Coliseum. In fine, not far off we see yet the columns of the Temple of Mars, the Forum of Nerva, and the Basilica and column of Trajan.* " This valley of ruins is raised at least twelve feet above its ancient level, so that one might read in the successive beds of rubbish a history of the misfortunies of Rome. The deplorable practice of burying and destroying the monuments had been increased by the negligence of the police, who suffered the earth from excavations, made for constructing the new city in the plains of the Tiber, to be deposited in this abandoned region. Thus the noble Roman Forum became a vast re- ceptacle of filth, and the contempt for ancient things was carried so far, even by those who ought to watch atten- tively their preservation, that there was pushed back to the wall of the Capitol a mass of rubbish which enveloped the columns of the Temple of Jupiter Tonans, and on this artificial mount a senator of Rome built his stables. " Thus did the successor of Agrippa comprehend his duty towards the remains of Roman grandeur. These Vandal profanations are not even of ancient date, as proved by an engraving of the Capitol made in loi30, * Canina is more accurate than the prifet in naming the Roman temples. 328 VICISSITUDES OF THE CITr. " After the example of the chief magistrate, the people raised on this factitious soil houses, granaries, and the beautiful columns served as supports for humble roofs ; frequently this soil has been excavated, but, curiosity sa- tisfied, the earth has been returned into the excavations." Reading this narrative of the French prefet, we cannot resist a sentiment of indignation, mayhap con- tempt, for the imbecile government which left for the stranger and usurper the performance of what ought to have been its proudest duty. The different charac- ter of the old Papal and modem French government, in matters of administration, appears in striking con- trast as we peruse the statement of the prefet. The French conceived a plan comprehensive and rational, to search for the ancient level, and bring out definitely into the light of day the bases of the monuments. Formerly RafFaelle,* in a very curious letter addressed to Leo X., had proposed such a general and permanent clearance and excavation ; and he undertook to realise his project. His proposal was never executed. The difficulties in the way of the French were great, for it was necessary to purchase and pull down a great number of houses, to remove the rubbish and place it where it could not prejudice other researches, to repair monuments in danger of falling, and drain off the water from the soil. Beginning from the Capitol, a heap of filth formed a terrace which almost touched the astragal of the columns of the Temple of Jupiter Tonans (so called) to a height of thirty feet above the ancient foun- For a summary of this letter, vide Roscoe's " Life of Leo X." vol. ii. pp. 3435. VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. 329 (lation. Houses occupied, close to this heap of soil, the area of the Temple of Concord, and other edifices and granaries were built between the column dedicated to Phocas and the arch of Septimius Severus. The Temple of Antoninus and Faustina was buried even above the base of the columns ; opposite the columns of the Temple of Jupiter Stator * (so called) were hidden deeply in the ground ; more distant, the pro- digious arches of the Temple of Peace,"|* enclosed by walls, served as stables for cattle and coach-houses for waggons ; and a mass of rubbish raised itself up to the spring of the arch. Mean edifices obstructed the view of the arch of Septimius Severus. The opposite declivity towards the Colosseum, occupied by a vineyard, presented a broken prospect of ruins extending to the outer wall of this mighty fabric, the area of which was encumbered with deposits of 112 feet in height. Its arches, between their openings and the chinks in the walls, announced approaching ruin (accelerated by an active vegetation) which the buttress boldly thrown up by Pius VII. retarded at one point only. Such Avas the deplorable condition of the Forum and surrounding district. In other regions were demanded the restoration of the Temples of Vesta and Fortuna Virilis, masked by buildings and concealed by rubbish ; also the unco- vering of the Arch of .Tiinus, the beautiful proportions of which were entirely hidden from similar causes ; * Sec ante Kctrion vin. Caiiina. f Culled the IJasiliea of Consta'Uine. Vkk Caiiina. p9 330 VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. and, above all, the disengagement of the column of Trajan, which, confined and almost hidden from view by a pile of modem uninteresting buildings, raised its head from the midst of a kind of well, and with diffi- culty could be even seen. " Our energies (says the prefet) ought to have been next directed to the Portico of Octavia, unworthily used at present as a fish-market, the Forum of Nerva, the Theatre of Marcelkis, and successively on all the other monuments of antiquity susceptible of being isolated from the modem buildings, and disengaged from the accumulation of earth under which their bases had disappeared." The preftt justly observes : "The execution of such an enterprise ^vould have required considerable time, but, from what has been done in four years, one may calculate the duration of the entire works projected." The French administration applied one million francs a-year to this great enterprise, one half advanced from the treasury, the other by the city ; how this was actually applied the prefet next proceeds to shew. OF THE WORKS OF RESTORATION EXECUTED RY THE FRENXH IN THE FORUM AND COLOSSEUM. From what has been above written, the reader will perceive that up to the time of the French occupation, the glorious remains of Ancient Rome were shamefully neglected, scarcely visible, being buried in the earth or blocked up and defiled. Following the account given by the prefet and using his words we find " Tlie French began in 1810 their works in the Forum and Colosseum, by the demolition of houses and granaries, ^>reviously purchased from their proprietors, and which had been erected in various sites in this classical district. The soil ra:s(.d was removed to distant places, the excavations VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. S3l were regularly made by trenches opened down to the ancient level, the work was completely done, so as to prevent all necessity of future operations. These labours were pursued during the years 1811, 1812, and 1813 and behold the results. The three angular pillars of the Temple* of Jupiter Tonans, crowned with a beautiful fragment of entablature ' chef-d^oeuvre de sculpture d'ornement du sihcle d'Auguste,' not only were buried up to the capitals, but they leaned over nearly a semi-diameter, and were sustained merely by the pressure of the earth which encompassed them. In order to replace these columns in a perpendicular position, it was necessary to remove the enormous blocks of marble of this entablature, and lay them down on a scaffolding constructed on a platform ; a circular excavation was then made around the pillars to the level of the ancient soil, that is, to a depth of about forty-five feet ; then it was discovered that these masses rested on the remains of a pedestal so consumed by time that we were forced to prop it underneath at the bot- tom of a kind of narrow well. This work presented great difficulties, which were very skilfully surmounted. When accomplished ' les colonnes du temple selancerent isolees dans leur noble elegance, et on s'etonaa de voir hriller dans les airs Vadmirable /rise sculptee que naguere souillait le pied des curieux.'f " Next the Temple of Jupiter, the edifice consecrated to Concord + was cleared of the vulgar erections resting against the columns, and its beautiful portico entirely isolated. " These clearances changed wholly the aspect of the Capitoline Mount, so crowded with precious remains, but so dishonoured by a shameful neglect ; it will suffice to cast a * Now recognized as the Temple of Vespasian, ante Region viii. t The plans 18, 19, 20, 21, given in vol. iii. of Count tie Tournon's book, shew liow tliis work of restoration was designed and executed. J According to Canina only the base of the Temple of Con- cord is visible ; the portico mentioned by the French piij'et must be referred to the Tem])le of Saturn. 332 VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. glance on the views given by Piranesi, Nolli, and other engravers, and to compare them with the actual appearances, in order to comprehend the extent and importance of the w^orks accomplished on this spot alone. " At the entrance of the Forum, the now isolated column which was buried between old houses, being disengaged by their demolition, was recognized by the inscription, for an antique monument which had been dedicated to Phocas." The further improvements by the French are thus described : " Ascending the Forum, we cleared away to the bases of the columns of the Temple of Jupiter Stator,* The removal of the accumulations in the Portico of Antoninus and Faustina uncovered the bases of the columns of Cipoline marble, at the foot of which was found in perfect preserva- tion the pavement of the Via Sacra, where seemed imprinted yet the steps of the conquerors marching to the Capitol, and those of the vanquished dragged to the Mamertine prisons, ' de cette voie sacree qiC Horace se plaisait d 2)a'>'courir chaque jour.' ' Ibam forte Via Sacra sicut meus est mos,' " Important works were executed at the same time in the Temple of Peace (now known as the Basilica of Con- stantine). The modern erections having disappeared, the masses of filth being removed, underneath was found, at a depth of many feet, a pavement elegantly disposed in pre- cious marbles. Then the three colossal vaults recovered their beautiful proportions, and the plan of this immense fabric might be comprehended. " After other demolitions of ugly obstructions, the soil was levelled so as to lay bare the base of the Temple of Venus and Rome, the Work of Hadrian, and there was found here a prodigious quantity of precious remains of the golden house of Nero. * According to Camna., ante Region viii. tliese graceful columns belonjrcd to the Curia Julia. VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. 333 " Afterwards, by the demolition of surrounding granaries, the Arch of Titus was isolated, and one might judge of its incomparable beauty. " The Colosseum, which terminated this valley of monu- ments, naturally attracted all our attention ; for this prodi- gious pile had so well withstood the waste of time, that we might assert, if untouched by the hand of man, the whole work of Vespasian and Titus would still be standing. Accumulations were removed, supports raised, porticoes cleansed, broken walls were repaired, gaping vaults cemented, flags of the pavements uncovered. ' On put juger de tout le peril qiiil courait pa?' suite de profondes et anciennes degradations. Si, depuis la cessation de V administration Frangaise, des travaux de consolidation furent executes, elle n'est pas responsable du mauvais goiit qui, dit on, a pre- side d cette restauration.' Excavations on a great scale having been effected, " Grace a, ces travaux, une longue duree est assuree au Colisee, et ce monument, qui fut sous le regne de Titus un cirque ensanylante, sotcs Diocletien la theatre du martyre des Chretiens, au moyen age le chateau-fort des Frangipanis, et de nos jours un calvaire revere, pourra long-temps encore justifier la belle expression de Delille : ' "Sa masse indestructible a fatigue le temps." " The works executed in the baths of Titus were not less important ; former excavations had been made in this cele- brated place, but without order, and the soil extracted from one portion seemed to fill up tliat space wliich had already satisfied curiosity. This imperfect examination had sufficed to bestow on the arts the sublime group of Laocoon, and to inspire the artists of a mighty age even Raf^aelle. Our labours were not attended with results so brilliant, but they will be at least permanent, since this admirable subterranean museum, whose walls and vaults are adorned with stuccoes perfectly preserved and covered with arabesques and paintings, is, at last, restored to light." 331 VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. These are the works executed in four years on the soil of the Forum and in the valley of the Colosseum, " and I need not," writes the prefet, " insist on their importance to the interests of archaology and the arts." The French administration further projected to search for the ancient soil throughout the whole Forum, and to uncover it throughout, sustaining by walls the earth on which the modem buildings are seated, and already had made a beginning by the construction of a trench to carry off the rain water from the excavations. The earth removed would have served for the construc- tion of the quays ; and, lastly, the Palatine Mount (where lived Evander and Pallas), the cradle of Rome, still covered by the ruins of the palace of the Caesars, would have formed a vast pleasure-garden between An- cient and Modern Rome. The plan of this magnificent project is indicated in the prefeCs map. This would, indeed, have been worthy the administration which de- signed it, but will never be attempted under the papacy. The arch of Janus Quadrifons, near the Forum Ro- manum, was disengaged from the surrounding soil to the depth of nine feet, and granaries which blocked it up were demolished. In other quarters of the city, the dwellings which enveloped the Temple of Vesta were demolished, and the excavations made around this monument having uncovered its circular dimensions " Et I'ayant isole et rendu a ses belles proportions, ce charmant edifice parut dans toute sa gracieuse elegance." Whilst the temple of Fortuna Virilis (built by Ser- vius Tullius), equally cleared from the mass of soil VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. 335 which buried its pedestal, displayed a vigorous beauty. The construction of a quay before this edifice was only required to bring it entirely into view.* The labours of the French were next directed to the column of Trajan. This memorial of Rome"'s most virtuous emperor Avas, notwithstanding what is supposed to have been done by Pope Sixtus, choked up to its very base with houses, churches, and convents. " Doubtless (writes the prefet) the most natural idea was to have made the column the centre of a grand place, but then the churches of Notre Dame di Loretto and of Santa Maria must have been demolished. These obstructions could not well be removed, so a plan less regular and grand was adopted, consisting in the tracing of a space in an elliptical form, and the execution of which would only require the sacrifice of two uninteresting convents." This plan once adopted was rapidly executed, and when the ground was cleared of the modern erections, the ancient level was met, on which had been laid the foundation of the Ulpian Basilica, marked out by the remains of walls, bases of columns, and in the interven- ing spaces covered with a pavement of marble indicating the situation of the halls and galleries. The admirable excavation laboriously effected was surrounded by a wall built up to the present level of the adjacent soil, the numerous ruins were preserved and judiciously disposed, and a communication with the streets constructed. "f* * I'ide C'anina for the correct description of these two heautiful temples. t Vide Ctinina"s (lcscri]ition of tlic Ulpian Ikxsilica and Tra- jan's Coliinui. and Nos. 28, 29, in the third volnnie of the I'refet's Book, for the sections and plans of the work done hy the French, and a view of the results. 336 VICISSITUDES OF THE CITY. " Grace a ses travaiuc, on petit maintenant j'ouir pleine- meni du vionument eleve au vainqueur des Daces, et cette partie de la ville a He embellie dune place vaste." The Pantheon was not neglected. Napoleon's pre- fet must have had a genuine taste for pure architecture, for he tells us preparations were made for stripping off the hideous belfries by which the monks disfigured the beautiful facade, and everything was ready to open a regular space before the portico, which would have exhibited in full perfection the glorious dome of the Pantheon. The other ancient temples changed into churches were also carefully repaired and preserved. Upon the Avhole, a noble task was performed. In reviewing the things accomplished by the French in reference to the ancient monuments of Rome, the tra- veller and archaeologist must confess and admire the judgment, ability, science, and taste by which the works of renovation, and restoration, were designed and executed. Remarking that the books published on Rome have not done justice to the French, nor touched, save incidentally, on their great and success- ful labours, I have deemed it essential, in sketchin? the vicissitudes of the city, to explain in what a de- plorable condition the venerable remains of classic ages were suffered to exist, by the negligent government of the Popes, and how they were redeemed, and re- stored, to the delighted gaze of the scholar, and. the traveller, by the vigorous industry of the French. 337 CONCLUSION. It has been frequently asserted that a change of Government in Rome would be injurious to the city itself, and especially to those monuments of classic ages, the possession of which lend to Rome an attrac- tion beyond that afforded by any other capital in the world. This is an error, and it is removed completely by a perusal of the work written by the Prefect of the Emperor Napoleon, to which copious reference has been already made. A Government such as the Papal can scarcely afford time or means to accomplish the restoration or excava- tion of ancient monuments. A Leo X. might have wished to execute what the genius of Raffaelle pro- posed : such a Pontiff has, however, but seldom ap- peared in Papal history. Any civilized Government succeeding to the ecclesi- astical Avill assuredly not neglect the memorials of a great antiquity. In all probability a new and energetic administration would labour not only to preserve and purify what now appears, but also to bring to light what lies still buried and neglected. The mode of proceed- ing, in reference to the valuable remains of Ancient Rome, would appear to be simple. that is, the ap- j)ointmcnt of a select number of qualified individuals to form a board or committee, to whose exclusive care 338 CONCLUSION. should be confided the antiquities of Rome, with in- structions to work out the plans of the French adminis- tration (detailed by the Count de Toumon), not only for the preservation of what exists, but in execution of further clearances and restorations. In the third volume of the French Prefect's work are drawings of all the plans, as well those actually effected as those designed for future execution ; and the reader must acknowledge, these great projects were suggested in a scientific man- ner, and in a truly admirable spirit. We may also expect, that such a Government will regard with equal care the celebrated ecclesiastical tem- ples of Rome, in the preservation of which the Christian world is interested ; while money will not be wasted in puerile decorations of ugly and unnecessary churches, thrust into obscure corners of the city, where congrega- tions cannot be expected or procured. Let us further hope that, when the fever of revolu- tion shall have subsided, whatever form of Government be adopted, we may discover the fruits not of change merely, but of reform, in the tranquillity and virtue of the people, in the restoration of the venerable monu- ments of antiquity, and in the renewed splendour of the eternal city.* * It is a good omen of the temporary Government now in pos- session of power in Rome, to find that already a commission has been appointed to superintend the renovation and repair of churches ; and also, that of such commission II Cavaliere Canina has been nominated a member. INDEX. Amphitheatre Castrense, 106. of Flavius, called the Colosseum, 52. Statilius Taurus, 222. Aqueduct, the Anio Vetus and the Appian water, 104. Claudian, and that called the New Anio, 94. Marcian, Tepulan, and Julian, 101. acqua Virgo, Histo- ric!\l description of Roman aque- ducts, in Notes, 210. Arch of Constantino, 250. Claudius, new, 1.36. Dolabella and Silanus, 41. Drusus, 36. Fabius, 151. Gallienus, 90. Gordianus, 135. Gratian, Valentinian, and Theodoric, 223. Lcntulus, 258. L. Verus and of Marcus, ] 36. Quadrifons, 17fi. Septiniius Severus (in the Roman Forum), 1 63. (in the Fomm Boarium), 178. . Tiberius, 1 62. Titus, 69. near theatre of Pompey, 201. Arches of Nero, 41. Area I'alatina, 248. Radicaria, 209. Septiniiana, 294. AuEjuratoriuni and mansion of the Salii, Priests of Mars, in Notis, 236, 237. Baths of Agrippa, 206. Agrippina, 87. Caracalla, 265. Vide in Notis, ^70. Constantine, 1 1 2. Decian, 276. Diocletian, 118. Helena, 105. Nero, 209. Novatus, and house of Pu- dens, 87. Olj'mpia, 86. Paulus, 116. Philip, 61. Public, 51. of Sura, 275. Titus, 54. Trajan, 57. Basilica of Constantine, 70. Julia, 153. Liciniana, 91. Matidia, 211. Marciana, 212. Paulus, 164. Silversmith, Argentaria, 177. Ulpian, 169. Bridge of Cestius, 292. Fabricius, 293. Buildings of Trajan's Forum, 1 73. Camp, Pra;torian, or Castrum Pra'- torium, 84. Campus Fontinalis, 48. Martius, 47, 202. Vide in Notis, 204. . Minor, 223. Viminalis, 86. Capitol, 180. ancient, 112. Celian, little, and cliapel of Diana. 50. Chapel of Modesty, 179. 340 INDEX. Charity, Roman. Vide in Notis, 262. Circus of Hadrian, in the Domi- tian gardens, 297. Agonalis, 209. Flaminian, 192. of Flora, 108. Massimo or Maximus, 252. of Nero, 295. Sallust, 120. Varianus, 106. Clivus Victoria;, 237. Cloaca Maxima, 180. Clock Solar, 224. Cohort, fifth of the Watch, 44. Column of Antoninus, 221. Marcus Aurelius, 219. Phocas, 165. Trajan, 1 72. Comitium, 149. Curia Julia, in the Roman Forum, 147. Calabra on the Capitol, 186. of Pompey, 201. Diribitorium, 141. Division of the City into 14 Re- gions, 23. Doliolus, or Monte Testaccio, Ar- vales Fratres. Vide in Notis, 284. Enclosures, early, of Rome, 10. Equiraelium, 180. Equiriae, 220. Field of Agrippa, 140. Forum Archemorium, 127. of Augustus, 1 68. Boarium (or market for sale of swine), 177. of CcEsar, 166. Olitorium (or herb mar- ket), 260. Romanum, 143. (Roman Forum, described in No- tis, 143, 144). of Sallust, 122. Suarium, 133. of Trajan, 169. Passage, or Forum Transi- torium, 73. Fountain and temple of Mercury, 27. 29. the Camenae, Fragments of the ancient plan of Rome, sculptured in marble, 8. Gardens of Adonis, 248. Argiani, 126. of Domitian, 227. LucuUus, 228. Vide in Notis, 230. Sallust, 122. Gate of Capena, 26. Gates of the primitive enclosures, 10. enclosures of Servius, 14. Aurelian, 18. Gibbon quoted, 54, 107, 130, 249. Granaries of the Lolliani, Galbiani, and Candellari, 283. Minutius, 196. Grecostasis, 150. Gymnasium,Great,orLudusMagnus Hill of Victory, or Clivus Victoriae, 237. Horace quoted, 80, 116, 237, 239, 271, 280, 305. House of Augustas, 240. Chilo, 268. Cornificius, 269. Laterani, 48. Marcus Aurelius, 48. Niccolo di Lorenzo, 260. Philip, 51. Pompey, 78. Tiberius, 242. Vitellius, 47. Houses, seven, of the Parthians, 266. various, in the region be- yond the Tiber, 295. Idea, general, of the City, 10-22. Ingress, principal, of the Palace of the Cajsars, 238. Island of the Tiber, Isola Tiberina, 291. Juvenal quoted, 25, 30, 48, 80,215, 271. Lake of Agrippa, 208. Library, Greek and Latin, 238. Ulpian, 171. Livy quoted, 14, 29, 31, 84, 148, 150,156, 164, 17.9,261, 271-7. 292,307-8. Lucan quoted, 122, 215. INDEX. 341 Market, High, or Forum of Cupid, 70. great, 46. of Livy, 90. Mausoleum of Hadrian, 297. Augustus, 225. Meta Sudan te or Sudans, 67. Minerva Medica, 93. Mithras, History of the Worship of, in Notes, 128. Mutatorium of Caesar, 31. Martial quoted, 37, 50-3, 75, 80, 111,119, 138, 200, 218, 223, 239, 273. Naumachia of Augustus, 290. Nemesis, 236. Nymphffium of Claudius, or arti- ficial fountain, 60. Jove, or public baths, 138. Ovid quoted, 27, 31, 37,47,48, G3, 84, 89, 111, 153, 177-9, 183, 195-7, 211, 235-7, 242, 257, 293-4. Palace, part added by Caligula, 243. Nero, 247. of Servius, 88. Pantheon of Agrippa, 205. Pollio, 279. Pomerium, 10. Portico, arched, 71. of Hundred Columns, 201. Constantine, 131. Corinthian, of Octavius, 202. of the Twelve consenting Gods, 182. Emilian, 281. of Europa, 222. Fabarian, 281. of Livia, 62. Mcleager, 218. Quarters of the Misenati, 62. Peregrini, i. e. fo- Milliaronse, 121. of Neptune, 217. Philip, 197. Octaviii, 193. Pola, 214. Prisons, Maincrtine, 163. Pliny quoted, 262. Propertius quoted, 200, 242. Quarters of the Albanians, 43. Genziani, 1 33. reign soldiers, 42. Recapitulation ; Region I. Porta Capena, 25. II. Celimontana, 38. III. IsisandSerapis,52. IV. Temple of Peace, or the Sacred Way, 65. v. The Esquiline, 82. VI. Alta Semita, 108. VII. Via Lata, 125. VIIl. Roman Forum, 142. IX. Flaminian Circus, 191. X. Palatium, 234. XI. Circus Maxim us, 252. XII. Piscina Pnblica, 265. XIII. The Aventine, 271. XIV. Transtiberina,301. Reservoirs of Water and Nymphte- um of Diocle- tian, 123. called the Sette Sale, 56. the Julian Foun- tain, 91. different Waters, 104. River Alnio, 37. Tiber, 19,20,287,289. Rock, Tarpeian, or Citadel, 185. Janiculum, 288. Rostra Julii, 149. most ancient, 161. Salt Stores, 257. School of Zanta, 182. Secretary's Office (of the Senate). 165. Septa. Vide in Notis, 212. Septizonium Esquiline, 59. of Septimius Severus, 249. Vide in Notis, 249, 267. Sessorium, 105. Sepulchre of Agrippa, 227. the Arunzi, 93. C'aius Cestus, 285. the Claudian Family 135. 342 INUKX. Sepulchre, common, 35. of the Domitii, 227. nearthe Porta Latina,34. of C. Publicius Bibulus, 133. along the Prenestihe Way, 92. of Scipio Africanus, 298. the Scipios, 32. M. Virgilio Eurisace, Sepulchres of the families Furian and Manilian, 34. Sommo Coragio, 64. Stadii of Domitian, 1 37. Statue, colossal, of Nero, 67- Street Sandalarius, 81. Suburra. Vide in Notis, 80. Tabularium, 184. Temple of Apollo, Palatine, 241 ; and Clathra, 115. Ancient, 1 95. Antoninus and Faustina, 72. Antoninus, 219. Augustus and the house- hold Gods, 246. Bellona, 19.5. the Camenae and Foun- tain, 29. Carmenta, 179. Castor and Pollux, 151. Ceres and Proserpine, 256. Ceres and of Hercules Pompeianus, 256. Caesar, 152. Claudius, 38. Concord, 159. Diana Communis. Vide in Notis, 272. Esculapius, 293. Faunus, 294. Flora, 110. Fortune, in the Forum Boarium, 179. Fortuna Fortis, 291. Public Fortune, 111. Fortuna Virilis, 259. Hercules, 179. Hercules of the Muses, 195. Hercules Gustos, 196. Temple of Isis, 140. Atenodoria, 267. neartheSepti,215. Janus, 165. Juno Lucina, 89. Moneta, 187. Regina, 277. Jutuma, 211. Jupiter Capitolinus,! 87. Conservatore, 189. in the island, 294. Tonans, 183. Stator, 235. Vimineus, 83. Vincitore, or Conquering Jove, 242. and Atrium of Liberty, 278. of Mars in the Campus Martins, 204. bevond the walls, 31. Matuta, 179. Mercury and Fountain, 257. near the Circo Massimo, 257. Minerva, 216. Calcidica, 216. Medica, 93. on the Aventine, 274. the Moon, 277. Neptune, 197,217. Peace, 75. Pallas, 248. Portunmus, 257. Quirinus, 110. Ilamnusia, 236. Remus, 72. Heahh, 112. Satuni, 155. Serapis, 1)5. near the Flami- nian Circus, 215. Sylvan us, 88. Speranza Vecchia : An- cient Hope, 99. Sun. Vide in Notis, 127. Temple of Tellus, or the Earth, 77. liNDEX. 343 Temple of the Tempest, 33. Trajan, 172. Vejovis, 185. Venus Erycina, 83. and Rome, 68. Sallustian, 121. Vesta near the Forum, 153. Vesta, so called Temple of Dis, 258. Palatina, 242. Vespasian, 159. Temples of Cybele, Bacchus, and Juno Sospita, 240. Fortuna Libera, Stabi- lis and Redux, 119. Honourand Virtue, 28. Piety, of Juno Matuta and of Hope, 261. Vide in Notis, 2G2. the Sun and of the Moon, 78. Tacitus quoted, 10, 23, 49, 50, 53, 158, 162, 189, 208, 228-9,263, 279, 291. Theatre of Balbus, 198. Marcellus, 193. Pompey, 199. Via Lata Broad Way, 135. Sacra Sacred Way, 66. Trionfalis, 300. Villa Publica, 214. Virgil quoted, 279, 280. Walls, primitive, 1 0. of Servius Tullius, 12. Aurelian, 18. Street Architecture of Ancient Rome, and Domestic Comforts of the Citizens, 301-308. Sketch of the Vicissitudes of the City, 309-336. THE END. GETTY RESEARCH INSTITUTE 3 3125 01076 8840