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VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK
COMPILED BY
MARY STUART SMITH
NEW YORK
HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE
1885
Copyright
1884, by
PREFACE.
It is not the aim of this little book to furnish an elab-
orate treatise on cookery, or to supplant any other author-
ity on the subject. But persons who desire to excel in
this sphere do not like to be tied down to any one par-
ticular method, or at least take an interest, and find their
advantage, in counselling with their neighbors concern-
ing the economy of household management. In the sim-
plest and most unpretending manner, two Virginian la-
dies would herein lay before their sisters a collection of
recipes, such as have been constantly used in the fami-
lies of their State for many years back, and tested by
the experience of several generations. It was thought
doubly expedient to make such a collection of recipes at
this time, when, old domestic institutions having been done
away with, there is danger that the composition of many
an excellent dish may become forgotten lore. Enough
will it be for the Virginia Cookery-book to take its place
on the house-keeper’s pantry shelf along-side of the simi-
lar works of Miss Leslie, Marion Harland, Mrs. Hender-
son, and Mrs. Hale, tobe referred to, if not on every occa-
sion, at least frequently. All that its compilers promise
is to be found trustworthy in the limited field which they
have undertaken to occupy.
INTRODUCTION.
In pursuance of the compiler’s wish that the “ Virginia
Cookery-Book” should serve as a memento of the past, as
well as a help in the present, she ventures to reproduce
the introduction to Mrs. Randolph’s “ Virginia House-
wife,” since it was written for that lady by the compil-
er’s grandfather, Professor George Tucker, and contains
a tribute to the notable character of Virginia matrons of
the olden time that she would like to go down to poster-
ity. This is done, the rather because there is no author-
ized edition of Mrs. Randolph’s excellent work now ex-
tant. Although its date of publication was 1831, most of
Mr. Tucker’s remarks are as applicable now as when they
were written. ‘Two changes in the manners of the times
are to be incidentally noticed. At that day, in a family
living in good style, the dining-room servant was invari-
ably a man; the castors, too, made the central figure on
the dinner-table. Yet, be it observed, particular atten-
tion to the latter may need to be enjoined only the more
earnestly, because in the more retired situation which
they now hold on the sideboard, neglect as to their con-
dition might not be so promptly brought to light, and
yet be only the more mortifying when it did appear.
v1 INTRODUCTION.
With filial reverence, then, the grandchild would lay
before her contemporaries advice that she feels carries far
more weight with it than anything which she could hope
to say herself on the important subject of ordering the
affairs of the household.
“ Professor Tucker's Introduction.
“Management is an art that may be acquired by every
woman of good-sense and tolerable memory. If, unfort-
unately, she has been bred in a family where domestic
business is the work of chance, she will have many diffi-
culties to encounter; but a determined resolution to obtain
this valuable knowledge will enable her to surmount all
obstacles. She must begin the day with an early break-
fast, requiring each person to be in readiness to take their
seats when the muffins, buckwheat cakes, etc., are placed
on the table. This looks social and comfortable. When
the family breakfast by detachments, the table remains a
tedious time, the servants are kept from their morning’s
meal, and a complete derangement takes place in the whole
business of the day. No work can be done until break-
fast is finished. The Virginia ladies, who are proverbially
good managers, employ themselves, while their servants
are eating, in washing the cups, glasses, etc., arranging the
cruets, the mustard, salt-sellers, pickle-vases, and all the
apparatus for the dinner-table. ‘This occupies but a short
time, and the lady has the satisfaction of knowing that
they are in much better order than they would be if left
to the servants. It also relieves her from the trouble of
seeing the dinner-table prepared, which should be done
every day with the same scrupulous regard to exact neat-
ness and method as if a grand company were expected.
When the servant is required to do this daily, he soon gets
INTRODUCTION. , vii
into the habit of doing it well, and his mistress having
made arrangements for him in the morning, there is no
fear of bustle and confusion in running after things that
may be called for during the hour of dinner. When the
kitchen breakfast is over, and the cook has put all things
in their proper places, the lady should go in to give her
orders. Let all the articles intended for the dinner pass
in review before her; have the butter, sugar, flour, meal,
lard, given out in proper quantities; the catsup, spice,
wine, whatever may be wanted for each dish, measured to
the cook. The mistress must tax her own memory with
all this; we have no right to expect servants to be more
attentive to our interests than we ourselves are; they will
never recollect these little articles until they are going to
use them; the mistress must then be called out, and thus
have the horrible drudgery of keeping house all day, when
one hour devoted to it in the morning would release her
from trouble until the next day. There is economy as
well as comfort in a regular mode of doing business.
When the mistress gives out everything there 1s no waste;
* but if temptation be thrown in the way of subordinates,
not many will have power to resist it; besides, it is an im-
moral act to place them in a situation which we pray to
be exempt from ourselves.
“The prosperity and happiness of a family depend
greatly on the order and regularity established in it. The
husband who can ask a friend to partake of his dinner in
full confidence of finding his wife unruffled by the petty
vexations attendant on the neglect of household duties—
who can usher his guest into the dining-room assured of
seeing that methodical nicety which is the essence of true
elegance—will feel pride and exultation in the possession
of a companion who gives to his home charms that grati-
fy every wish of his soul and render the haunts of dissipa-
viii INTRODUCTION.
tion hateful to him. The sons bred in such a family will
be moral men, of steady habits; and the daughters, if the
mother shall have performed the duties of a parent in the
superintendence of their education as faithfully as she has
done those of a wife, will each be a treasure to her husband;
and being formed on the model of an exemplary mother,
will use the same means for securing the happiness of her
own family which she has seen successfully practised un-
der the parental roof.”
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
YEAST.—BREADS MADE WITH YEAST, AND BISCUIT.
Yeast.—Hannah’s Yeast.—Exact Way to Make Good Light Bread.—
Sponge.—Potato Yeast.—Biscuit.—Thin Biscuit.—Beaten Biscuit.
—Bachelor’s Loaf.—Sherwood Biscuit.—French Rolls.— Cream
Rolls.—Sally Lunn, Nos. 1 and 2.—Cinnamon Buns.—Hannah’s
Rolls.—Hannah’s Muffins.— French Bread.—French Biscuit.—
Lightened Biscuits.—Powhatan Loaf.—Powhatan Rolls.—Quick
Biscuits.—Soda Biscuit.—Golden Loaf of Albemarle.—Brandon
Rolls. —Old Maids.—Brown Bread.—Rusks, Nos. 1 and 2.—Apple
CATV lB 2: 0 Pa Page 1
CHAPTER II.
CORN BREAD, BREAKFAST CAKES, AND FANCY BREAD OF FIFTY
SORTS.
Muffins.— Fly-aways, or Souffié Biscuits.—Corn Batter Cakes.—
Corn Dodgers.—Ash Cake.—Every-day Batter Bread.—Buttered
Federal Loaf, for Tea.—Apoquiniminc Cakes.—Velvet Cakes.—
Crumpets.— Cream Batter Pudding.— Buckwheat Cakes, No. 1.
—Buckwheat Cakes, No. 2.—Buckwheat Cakes (quickly made).—
Mush Batter Cakes.—Economical Batter Cakes.— Cream Cakes.
—Lapland Cakes, No. 1.—Lapland Cakes, No. 2.—Rice Cakes.—
Chocolate Cakes.—Rice Waffles.—Orange Cakes.—Flannel Cakes,
No. 1.—Flannel Cakes, No. 2.—Ingleside Waffles. Germantown
Puffs.—Chaney’s Thin Biscuits.—Crackers.—English Muflfins.—
Johnnie Cake.—Rice Muffins.—Rice Drop Cakes.—Port Royal
Corn Cakes.—Nun’s Puffs.—Corn Muffins.—Corn Muffins (quick-
ly made).—Hoe ‘Cake.—Alabama Rice Bread.—Espetanga Corn
Bread.—Edgemont Waffles.—Mrs. Walker’s Wafiles.—Rice Waf-
fles. — Waffles without Eggs.— Tea Cakes without Eggs.—Vir-
ginia Ege Bread.—Hominy Batter Cakes.—Short Cakes.—Best
Rice Griddle Cakes.—To Grease a Griddle.—Mrs. Cabell’s Batter
x ) CONTENTS.
Bread.—Indian Meal Batter Cakes.—Excellent Muffins.—Break-
fast Cakes. —A Favorite Muffin. — Pop-overs. — Delicate Crack-
GTS acs nol ba taralaWena Seid Div nie te i bases tse een ol Page 18
CHAPTER III.
COFFEE, TEA, AND CHOCOLATE.
To Boil Coffee, No. 1.—To Boil Coffee, No. 2.—French Coffee.—
Vienna Coffee.— Green Tea.— Black Tea.— Latest Fashion for
Making Black Tea.— Cold Tea.— Chocolate, No. 1.— Chocolate,
No. 2:-—Chocolate, No. 3 ...0. css: is-c.a eps > soa eee 35
CHAPTER IV.
EGGS.
Soft-boiled Eggs.— Hard - boiled Eggs.— Poached Eggs.— Omelet
‘Plain.—A Very Superior Omelet.—Baked Eggs.—Shirred Eggs.—
Deviled Eggs.—Scrambled Eges.—Eges 4 la Créme.—Omelet of
au — Beef Omelet.— Potato Omelet.—Ham Omelet.— Stuffed
CHAPTER VY.
OYSTERS.
Oysters Raw.— To Stew Oysters.—To Broil Oysters.—To Roast
Oysters.—Scolloped Oysters.—Baked Oysters.—Oyster Patty.—
Oyster Fritters.—To Fry Oysters.—To Make Oyster Loaves.—
Terrapin Stew.—To Pickle Oysters.—Oyster Soup.—Richmond
Way of Pickling Oysters.— Cream Oysters. — Baltimore Oyster
Pie.—A Ragout of Oysters... i... 1.7. 2s 4s = hae eg se 49
CHAPTER VI.
FISH.
To Boil Rockfish.—Sauce for Rockfish.—To Boil a Shad.—To Bake
a Shad.—To Fry a Shad.—To Broil a Shad.— Court Bouillon,
Louisiana Mode.—To Broil Trout, and Sauce for it.—To Fry
Trout.—Fresh Herrings.—To Boil Herrings plain.—Boiled Her-
rings, with Mustard Sauce.—To Fry Perch.—To Broil Perch.—
Perch, with Caper Sauce.—To Boil Salmon.—To Broil Salmon,
with White Sauce.—Salmon Pie.— Lobster Pie.—Turbot a la
Créme.—To Dress Bass or Sheep’s-head.—Baked Blackfish.—To
Broil Carp.—To Broil Carp au Court Bouillon.—Stewed Lobster.
—Baked ‘Base. is. 0o vsica s vacee dee pues oe ure cee een 58
CONTENTS. xi
CHAPTER VII.
SOUPS.
Stock for Soup.—To prepare a Beef’s Head for Soup Stock.—Aspar.
agus Soup.—Beef Soup.—Chicken Soup.—Black Mexican Bean
Soup. — Force-meat Balls for Bean Soup. — Corn Soup. — Calf’s-
head Soup.—Gumbo.—Mock-turtle Soup.—Little Eggs for Turtle
or Mock-turtle Soup.—Oyster Soup, No. 1.—Oyster Soup, No. 2.
—Ox-tail Soup.—Okra Soup.—Green-pea Soup.—Squirrel Soup.
—Tomato Soup.—Good Lenten Soups................. Page 72
CHAPTER VIII.
POULTRY AND MEATS,
To Roast a Turkey.—Gravy for Roast Turkey.—Deviled Turkey.
—To Boil a Turkey, with Oyster Sauce.—To Boil a Turkey, with
Egg Sauce.—To Roast a Goose.—The Epicure’s Improvement to
Roast Goose.—To Roast a Goose before a Range or in a Stove.—
To Roast Grown Pullets.—To Roast Young Chickens.—To Roast
Pheasants or Partridges.—To Boil Grown Chickens.—To Roast
Ducks. —To Dress Wild Ducks.—Gravy for Wild Ducks or
Grouse.—To Roast a Pig Whole.—Souse.—To Roast a Haunch
of Venison.—To Roast a “Shoulder of Venison.—A Venison Pasty.
maim moast Mutton like Venison ., 2.6.0 .ceces vcs e newt ecese 83
CHAPTER IX.
MEATS (Continued).
Beefsteak.— Beef Stew.— Mutton Stew.—Curry Powder.— Zitelli’s
Macaroni Stew.—To Fricassee Chickens.—Fowl] Cutlets.—Chick-
en Pudding.—Stewed Ducks.—Stewed Chicken.—Brown Gravy
for Ducks.—To Dress a Calf’s Head.—A Pie of Green Corn and
Chickens.—Father Adam.—To Stew a Rump of Beef.—Sanders
of Cold Beef.—Italian Beefsteak.—To Stew a Fresh Beef Tongue.
—Ragdut of Souse.—Beef Bouillii—A Nice Relish of Meat for
Tea.—Venison Stew.—Blanquettes of Veal.—Baked Hash.—Veal
Olives the French Way.—Sweetbreads with Oranges.— Sweet-
breads 4 la Dauphine.—To Make a Handsome Dish out of an Old
Hen.—Brunswick Stew.—Stewed Pizeons.—Rice Pie........ o5-
CHAPTER X.
CATSUPS AND SAUCES.
Cucumber Catsup, No. 1.—Cucumber Catsup, No. 2.—Tomato Sa-
voy.—Chelsea Sauce.—Pepper Sauce.—Cranberry Sauce.—Celery
xii CONTENTS.
Sauce.—Drawn-butter Sauce.—Dutch Sauce.—Fish Sauce.—Lob-
ster Sauce.—Sauce for Rockfish.—Sauce for Roasted Wild Duck.
—Egg Sauce.— Sauce for Venison.— Green Tomato Catsup.—
Cold Tomato Sauce.—Sauce for Lettuce.—Mint Sauce for Lamb.
—Apple Sauce for Goose.—Russian Sauce.—Tomato Catsup, Nos.
1,2,and 3.—A Nice Store Sauce.—Tomato Sauce.—Oyster Sauce.
—Cucumber Sauce.—Bay Sauce.—Gooseberry Catsup.—Walnut
Catsup, No. 1.—Walnut Catsup, No. 2.—Cucumber Catsup.—
Worcestershire Sauce ...\) i, .siewsse «eae sub sees oon Page 110
CHAPTER XI.
VEGETABLES.
Artichoke.—Asparagus.—French, or Snap Beans.—Lima Beans.—
Beets. —Carrots.—Cabbage.—Cabbage Pudding, No. 1.—Cabbage
Pudding, No. 2.—Cauliflower and Broccoli.—To Boil Corn on the
Ear.—To Stew Corn, No. 1.—To Stew Corn, No. 2.—To Fry Corn,
—To Bake Corn.—To Cook Dried Corn.—To Cook Cucumbers. —
Cymlings, or Summer Squash.— To Bake Egg-plant.—To Fry
Egg -plant.— Grits, or Small Hominy.—To Bake Grits.— Fried
Grits.—To Boil Hominy.— Macaroni.— Okra.— Onions.— Onions
4 la Créme.-—To Boil Old Potatoes.—To Boil Irish Potatoes.—To
Steam Potatoes.—Mashed Potatoes.—Baked Potatoes.—Fried Po-
tatoes for Dinner.—Sweet Potatoes.—Irish Potatoes Roasted.—
Parsnips.—Green Peas.—Dried Peas or Beans.—To Boil Rice.—
A Colored Cook Tells how to Dress Rice.—Baked Rice.—To Fry
Salsify.—To Stew Salsify.—To Bake Salsify.—To Stew Spinach.
—To Broil Tomatoes.—To Bake Tomatoes.—To Stew Tomatoes.
—Forced Tomatoes. —Turnips.—Turnip-tops.—Baked Turnips.—
Corn and Tomatoes.—Tomatoes with Eggs................ 120
CHAPTER XII.
ENTREES.
Croquettes, No. 1.—Croquettes, No. 2.—Rice Croquettes.—A Boned
Hen.— Welsh Rarebit, No. 1.—Welsh Rarebit, No. 2.— English
Rarebit.— Scotch Rarebit.— Piccadillo.— Ragoéut of Oysters and
Mushrooms.—A Ragéut of Mushrooms.—Mushrooms with Cream.
—Mushrooms with White Sauce.—Turkey a la Daube.—Chickens
4, la Daube.—Partridges 4 la Daube.—To Make Nice Meat Jelly.
—Salmagundi.—A Pig in Jelly.—A Ragout of Ham.—A Ragout
of Sweetbreads. —A Ragout of Trufiles. —A Ragdut of Cauli-
CONTENTS. xill
CHAPTER XIII.
SALADS AND VEGETABLES COLD.
Chicken Salad.— Lobster Salad.— Cold Slaw, No. 1.—Cold Slaw,
No. 2.—Hot Slaw.—Sauce for Salmon or Lobster.—To Dress
Lettuce without Oil.— Tomatoes Raw.—Cucumbers Raw.—Dress-
ing for Lettuce.—Dressing for Lettuce or other Salad.—Anoth-
er Salad Dressing. — Yet another Salad Dressing. — A Winter
Salad. — Mayonnaise Salad Dressing. — Cabbage Salad.—Oyster
I Fe Sein cele gob Se ERS ve heen sas bea Page 153
CHAPTER XIV.
PIES AND PUDDINGS.
Puff Paste.—Boiled Pastry.—Pastry (Another Way).—Railway Pud-
ding.—Victoria Pudding.—Sago Pudding.— Ground - rice Pud-
ding.—Confederate Pudding.—Plum Pudding, No.1.—Plum Pud-
ding, No. 2.—Plum Pudding the Second Day.—Baked Plum Pud-
ding.—Plum Pudding (Mrs. Cabell).—Cake Pudding.—Sponge-
cake Pudding, No. 1. —Sponge- -cake Pudding, No. 2.—Plain Mo-
lasses Pudding.—Tyler Pudding. —Sweetmeat Pudding.—Bread
Pudding.— Citron Pudding. — Orange Pudding. — Custard Pud-
ding.—Cocoa-nut Pudding.—Cream “Pudding.—Green-corn Pud-
ding.—Rice Pudding.—To make Rice Pudding.—Arrow-root Pud-
ding.—Apple Pudding, No. 1.—Apple Pudding, No, 2.—Norfolk
Pudding Puff.—Jelly Pudding.—Rice Pudding without Eggs.—
Fruit Pudding. —Molasses Pudding. —Apple Pies without Apples.
—Delicate Apple Pudding.—Apple Charlotte.—Friar’s Omelet.—
Blackberry Pudding.—Dressing for Sponge-cake Roll.—Orange
Custard Pie.—Sponge-cake Roll.—Delmonico Pudding.—French
Sauce for Puddings.—Hard Sauce (Mrs. Chevallié).......... 162
CHAPTER XV.
SWEET CAKES.
Sponge Cake.—Butter Sponge Cake.— Valley Sponge Cake.—Pound
Cake.— Naples Biscuit.—Bride’s Cake.— Elegant Black Fruit
Cake.—Fine Fruit Cake (More Modern Recipe).—A Cheaper but
Good Fruit Cake.— White Fruit Cake.— Jackson Cake. — Lee
Cake.— Composition Cake.—Snow-mountain Cake.—Home Gin-
gerbread, No. 1.—Home Gingerbread, No. 2.—Lady Cake.—Pres-
ton Ginger Cake.—Little Molasses Cake.—Mrs. J. Randolph Page’s
xiv CONTENTS.
Ginger Cake.—Mrs. Ritchie’s Marmalade Cake.—Ginger Snaps.—
Jew’s Cake.— Good Ginger Cake.— Mrs. Garrett’s Ten-minute
Cake.—Baker’s or Plebeian Gingerbread.—Never-failing Cake.—
Cocoa-nut Cake.—Leavened Fruit Cake.—White Cup Cake.—
Angel’s Food.—Republican Cake.—Wafers.—Cream Cake.—Tea
Cake, No. 1.—Tea Cake, No. 2.—Indian Meal Pound Cake.—A1-
mond Cake.—To Make Shrewsbury Cakes............. Page 181
CHAPTER XVI.
ICINGS.
Icing for Cake, No. 1.—Icing for Cake, No. 2.—Transparent Icing.
—To Make Boiled Icing.—Chocolate Icing.—Red or Pink Color-
ing for Icings, Jelly, etc.; Nos, and 2.3.2. ss eases ene 195
CHAPTER XVII.
ICE-CREAM AND CUSTARD.
Vanilla Ice-cream.—Economical Lemon Ice-cream.—Lemon Sirup.
. —Lemon Ice-cream.— Strawberry Ice-cream.— Strawberry Ice-
cream in Winter.— Raspberry Ice-cream.— Peach Ice-cream.—
Green-apple Cream.— Caramel Cream.— Cocoa-nut Ice-cream.—
Chocolate Ice-cream.—Chocolate Custard.—Coffee Cream.—Cof-
fee Cream (Another Way).— Pineapple Cream—Orange Ice.—.
Lemon Sherbet.—Pineapple Sherbet.—Frozen Tea.—Tutti Frut-
ti.— Currant Ice.— Gooseberry -fool.— Frozen Plum Pudding.—
Boiled Custard.—Trifle.—Burnt Custard.—Baked Custard.—Ba-
nana Ice-Cream.—Banana Cream.—Frozen Peaches......... 198
CHAPTER XVIII.
JELLY, CHARLOTTE-RUSSE, ETC.
Calf’s Foot Jelly.—Jelly without Eggs or Boiling.—Isinglass Jelly.
—Lemonade Jelly.—Orange Jelly. —Fruit in Jelly.—Rock Cream.
—Cream Jelly.—Jerusalem Cream.—Farina Jelly.—Blanc-mange,
No. 1.— Blanc-mange, No. 2.— Chocolate Blanc-mange, No. 1.—
Chocolate Blanc-mange, No. 2.—Jelly without Wine.—Bavarian —
Cream.— A Pretty Supper-dish of Jelly—To Make a ‘‘Hen’s
Nest.” — Carrageen Moss Blanc-mange.—Chocolate Charlotte-
Russe.—Apples with Jelly.—Ellie’s Eclaires,—Flummery.—Char-
lotte-Russe.—Almond Blanc-mange............e.eeceeeeees 217
CONTENTS. xv
CHAPTER XIX.
PRESERVES, ETC.
To Preserve Apples.—Apple Jelly.—Blackberry Jam.— Beautiful
Jelly Made from Pippin Apples.—Blackberry Preserves.—To Pre-
serve Cherries.—Red-currant Jelly.—Fox-grape Jelly.— To Pre-
serve Siberian Crab-apples.—To Preserve Cranberries.—Damson
Preserves.—Sweetmeats of Citron or Cantaloupe Melons.—Green
Gooseberries.—Greengage Plums.—Jelly.—Grape Preserves.—To
Preserve Clingstone Peaches.—Peach Jam.—Quince Preserves. —
Pear Preserves.— Raspberry Preserves.— Strawberry Preserves.
—To Make Jelly out of Strawberry Acid.—Green Tomato Pre-
serves.— Sweetmeats.— Pineapple Preserves.—To Preserve Or-
anges Whole.—Orange Marmalade.—Quince Marmalade.—Green
Sweetmeats.—Fig Preserves.— Quick Way of Preparing Water-
melon Rind.—Canned Peaches.—Brandy Peaches...... Page 229
CHAPTER XX.
PICKLES.
Prepared Vinegar.—Green Pickle, No. 1 (quickly made).—Green
Pickle, No. 2 (quickly made).—Isabella’s Cabbage Pickle.—Green
Mangoes.—Cabbage Pickle.—Chopped Pickle.—Filling for Five
Dozen Peach Mangoes.— Peach Mangoes. — Peach Mangoes
(Another Way).— Pepper Mangoes.— Martinoes.— Cut-cucumber
Pickle.—Ripe Tomato Pickle.—Green Tomato Pickle, No. 1.—
Green Tomato Pickle, No. 2.—Onion Pickle.—Walnut Pickle.
—Hiden Salad.—Chow-chow, Nos. 1, 2, and 3.—Pickled Mush-
rooms.— Pickled Peppers.— Sweet Pickle. (So-called German.)
—To Green Pickles.—To Stuff Forty Large Cucumbers.—Span-
ish Pickle.—Watermelon-rind Pickle, No. 1.—Watermelon-rind
Pickle, No. 2.—Buck and Breck Pickle.—Sweet-peach Pickle.—
Ripe Cantaloupe Pickle. (Eastern Shore.) .........ceessee5 202
CHAPTER XXI.
CURED MEATS AND FISH.
To Cure-Bacon.—To Cure Jowls and Chines for Early Use.—Sau-
sage-meat, Nos. 1, 2, and 3.—To Cure Hams by Pickling.—Souse
in Moulds.— Brine for Preserving Souse.— Mock Bologna Sau-
sage.—Pudding.—To Corn Beef, Nos. 1, 2, and3.—A Spiced Round
of Beef.—To Broil Ham Nicely.— A Stuffed Ham.—To Cure
xvi CONTENTS.
Tongues. —To Cure Rennet.— Prize Recipe for Curing Vir-
ginia Hams. — To Boil a Ham. — Pressed Beef.—Pickled Her-
TINGS roa are ee Pk a ee ee ene eo oa Page 268
CHAPTER XXII.
CORDIALS AND COOLING DRINKS.
Strawberry Acid.—Raspberry Vinegar.—Rose Brandy for Flavor-
ing.—To make Lemon Sirup.—Cherry Shrub.—Blackberry Acid.
—Blackberry Cordial. (Medicine.)—Currant Shrub ........ 278
CHAPTER XXIII.
HOME-MADE WINES.
Blackberry Wine, Nos. 1, 2, and 3.—Wine from Catawba Grapes.—
Grape Wine.—Currant Wine.—Good Cooking Wine....... + 282
¢
CHAPTER XXIV.
THE DAIRY.
To Make Butter.—Brine for Keeping Butter.—To Cure Butter.—
Mrs. Colston’s Recipe for Putting up Butter to Keep.—Cottage
Cheese. — Bonny - clabber. — Slip. —Curds and Cream, No. 1.—
Curds and Cream, No. 2.—Cheese.—Cream-cheese, No. 1.—Cream-
cheese, No. 2.—To Make Slip-coat Cheese .................. 286 ,
CHAPTER XXvV.
CANDIES AND CONSERVES.
Cocoa-nut Candy.—Cocoa-nut Balls.—Candy in Pudding Fashion.
—Newport Candy.—Cream Caramels.—Conserves of Strawberries. |
-—Kisses.—Peach Chips or Conserves.—Peach Leather.—Butter
Taffy.— Cocoa-nut Cones.— First-rate Molasses Candy.— Choco.
late Caramels.—Delightful Cough Candy........ssseeesee0. 294
CHAPTER XXVI.
FRITTERS, PANCAKES, ETC.
French Fritters. — Bell Fritters. — Rice Fritters. — Puff Fritters, —
Apple Fritters. — Spanish Fritters. —Snow-flake Sauce. — Berry-
ville Fritters. —Quaking Pudding. — Pancakes. — Scotch Pan.
CAKGB, . ous gsc vace ae be 'euce cot enue nilgeetne Alans sitet ieee 800
CONTENTS. XVii
CHAPTER XXVII.
FOR THE SICK.
Beef Essence.—Chicken Essence, or Tea.—Beef Tea, No. 1.—Beef
Tea, No. 2.— Chicken Soup. — Panada, No. 1.— Panada, No. 2.
—Rusk Panada.—Caudle.—Rice Caudle.—Flour Caudle.—Hard
Biscuit for Invalids.—Crisp Biscuits.—Mush.—Gruel.—Arrow-
root.—Tapioca Jelly.—Sago.— Rye Mush.— Cremo,— Eggnog.—
Mint Julep.—Prunes.—Lemons.—Limes.—Soft Peaches.—Cran-
berries.—Apples.—A Plain Rice Pudding.—Rice Milk, No. 1.—
Rice Milk, No. 2.—Rice Shapes.—Clover Tea.—Mullein Tea.—
Tamarind-water.—Toast and Water.—A pple-water.—Elder-flower
Tea.—A Fine Tonic.—Lemon Honey.—Dewberry Sirup.—Boiled
Flour for Invalids.—To Cure a Cold.—An Admirable Cough Mixt-
ure.—Cherry-bark Tea.—Brown Mixture for Coughs.—Burns.—
Blisters.—Basilicon Salve.—Cuts.— W ounds.—Sprains.—Bruises.
—For a Rising Breast.—Boils.................. 02 eeeee Page 305
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VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK.
CHAPTER I.
YEAST.—-BREADS MADE WITH YEAST, AND BISCUIT.
Yeast.—Hannah’s Yeast.—Exact Way to Make Good Light Bread.—
Sponge.—Potato Yeast.—Biscuit.—Thin Biscuit.—Beaten Biscuit.
—Bachelor’s Loaf.—Sherwood Biscuit.—French Rolls.— Cream
Rolls.—Sally Lunn, Nos. 1 and 2.—Cinnamon Buns.—Hannah’s
Rolls.—Hannah’s Muffins.— French Bread.—French Biscuit.—
Lightened Biscuits.—Powhatan Loaf.—Powhatan Rolls.—Quick
Biscuits.—Soda Biscuit.—Golden Loaf of Albemarle.—Brandon
Rolls.—Old Maids.—Brown Bread.—Rusks, Nos. 1 and 2.—Apple:
Bread.—Salt-rising Bread.
YRAST,
Bott five or six large Irish potatoes until soft, and mash
them fine; to three pints cold water put a half-gill meas-
ure of hops, closely pressed; let the water come to a
boil, and boil for five minutes, uncovered; strain gradual-
ly the tea over the mashed potatoes, and after they are
mixed strain through a colander to exclude the potato
lumps ; add, while hot, a teacupful of sugar and a table-
spoonful of salt, and, when nearly cold, a teacupful of old
yeast.
This yeast will be ready for use within four hours
after being made, and will not quickly sour.
In order to have white flaky bread very little lard must
be put in the flour—not more to each quart of flour sett
a piece the size of a hickory-nut. :
S
2 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK.
-
Hannan’s YEAST.
One teacupful of salt, one of sugar (white or fair
brown), two cupfuls of flour, two of meal, eight large
Trish potatoes, one large handful of hops. Boil the pota-
toes, after pealing them raw; strain the hot potato-water
into the salt, sugar, flour, and meal; make a quart of
strong hop-tea and pour over this; put on the fire and
stir until the yeast has thickened sufficiently, which will
be in from five to ten minutes; add now a teacupful of
old yeast that is still lively and set away, in a jar, to rise.
This yeast, if kept in a cool place, will be good as long
as there is any of it left.
Exact Way Tro Maxr Goop Ligut Brerap.
Obeying the following directions for making yeast and
sponge, the most inexperienced cook may soon become
skilful as a bread-maker :
Boil six potatoes ; peel and mash them up smooth, so
that not the least lump is left; mix with them a light
half-pint of sifted flour ; stir these into a pint of boiling
hop-tea; strain through a coarse sieve, and add three
table-spoonfuls of sugar and a teaspoonful of salt; when
cold pour in a half-pint of old yeast.
Use two table-spoonfuls of this Teane for lightening
one quart of flour.
SPONGE,
Two large Irish or white potatoes, three table-spoon-
fuls of flour, two table-spoonfuls of sugar; mix smooth
with one pint of boiling water; when cold, add six table-
spoonfuls of yeast. Make up your bread (in winter) with
this sponge at 4 p.m. for an eight o’clock breakfast, using
two and a half quarts of flour, two eggs well beaten—
[very good bread is made by this recipe without the
VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 8B
eggs, however|—one table-spoonful of butter and lard,
mixed. |
Make up the sponge before breakfast, if you want light |
bread for tea. It will be covered with froth when well
risen. In summer, for breakfast bread, make the sponge
after dinner—that is to say, three or four o’clock p.uw.—
and work it into your dough with ice-water just before
leaving the kitchen for the night. When you leave out
the eggs add their bulk in water.
Although the above recipe is as precise as can well
be, yet in the matter of light bread-making something,
after all, must be left to the judgment of the cook, who,
to insure success, must watch the changes of temperature
as carefully as any maker of almanacs, If the weather
is hot, the bread-dough must be set in the coolest place
accessible; if the weather is cold, just the opposite treat-
ment must be pursued. The dough should be left to rise
in a vessel sufficiently large to allow of its swelling to four
times its original size, and yet the vessel should be close-
ly covered. A cook should always keep a clean, coarse
linen towel at hand, wherewith to cover her bread after
the lid is lifted, and while it is taking its second rise.
Cooks differ as to the length of time bread ought to
be worked after the yeast is put in, Some only kneading
it enough to make the dough smooth and pliant. But I
must say that the dest bread-makers whom I know knead
for at least an hour, and with all their might. Even
then there is a magic in the touch of certain gifted ones
that all cannot hope to acquire, although every willing
person can learn to make an excellent article.
In the morning, if the dough is properly leavened, it
will quiver on one side if touched on the other. Have
ready a bread-board, which must be well floured ; flour
your hands also before attempting to lift the dough
4 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK.
from its bucket or jar; have your tins greased; make |
out into loaves or rolls, as you may fancy, working the
dough just enough to mould it into the forms desired.
Put a little clean lard between each roll, in order that
they may easily come apart; and also lightly grease over
the tops, that the crust may brown well and be tender.
The dough must be set to rise a second time before
being put into the oven, which must be well heated, and
kept evenly so all the time that the bread is baking.
One hour is usually allowed for this second rising, and
one hour for the baking. But here, again, it is impossible
to set down invariable laws, because fires will not all
burn just alike, and bread rises twice as fast on a warm
morning as when the air is frosty and biting. |
While one cannot exaggerate the particularity required
of every woman who would excel as a bread -maker,
there is a comfort in reflecting that such stupid people
have acquired the art that no one need despair, if she
have only a willing mind.
The most beautiful bread I ever saw was made by a
poor creature only one degree removed from idiocy; she
had sense enough, however, to feel how her bread should
be treated, and was, moreover, scrupulously neat.
An old “aunty” in a Virginia homestead of the olden
time made such exquisitely fair rolls, that a visitor
asked leave to be permitted to have her recipe. ‘ Aunt
_ Phyllis,” the lady said, “I have come to get your recipe ~
for making the lovely rolls you gave us for breakfast.”
With a droll and puzzled air the cook answered, “La!
missis, I just know I dar’n’t make ’em no different.”
The old woman could give no other recipe: she knew
what she had to do, and did it. I.am much mistaken if
any one can fail who sets about bread-making with care-
fulness and a determined purpose to succeed.
VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 5
ANOTHER Goop ReEcrrE FoR YEAST.
(From Fauquier County.)
Boil a handful of dried hops, or a two-inch cube, if
you use those put up and pressed for market, in two
quarts of water, and add four large potatoes, boiled,
mashed, and strained; scald six table-spoonfuls of flour
in the liquid, adding one cup of sugar and one cup of
salt; when cold, add yeast to ferment it, thinning the
liquid to two and a half quarts. This, put in well-corked
bottles, will keep six weeks in the warmest weather.
Use half a teacupful for each quart loaf of bread.
Potato YRAST.
After removing the peel, slice eight common - sized
white potatoes and put them in a kettle to boil, with five
pints of water; add a double-handful of hops, tied up in
a thin muslin bag; let all boil together until the potatoes .
are thoroughly cooked; then take the potatoes out of the
kettle with a perforated ladle, put them into a bowl, and
mash them perfectly smooth; then stir into them a tea-
cupful of pulverized sugar and a smaller teacupful of
salt; then strain over them the hop-tea from the kettle,
and you have new yeast; wait until the heat is only
tepid, and then add a cupful of already risen yeast to
make the new ferment. In twenty-four hours it is fit for
use. Do not put any flour into this yeast. The salt is
put in, during warm weather, to prevent it from turning
sour, and therefore may be omitted in winter. If you pre-
fer doing so, make it into cakes with corn meal and dry
them in the shade.
Biscuits.
At present this favorite bread is generally made with
the help of Horsford’s, Royal Baking, or Rumford’s yeast
6 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK.
powders, particular recipes being given on their several
packages; but a few general hints concerning their prep-
aration may be useful to inexperienced house - keepers.
The cook should be instructed to roll her dough till only
half as thick as you wish your biscuits to be when done,
if any of the above powders are used, as it will rise a
great deal, in spite of being stuck with a fork—a part
of the biscuit-making process never to be neglected.
Nothing can be more inelegant than a large, thick biscuit.
Let the oven be well heated before the cook begins to
make up her dough even, for, the quicker the process, the
more likely it is to be successful. Biscuits should be
baked in about ten minutes, brown and crisp, but not
hard. Occasionally a person is found who likes a soft,
white biscuit; if so, special directions may be given to
that effect, for this may be considered an idiosyncrasy
of taste. A biscuit should be cut not more than three
inches in diameter, and not more than a third of an inch
in thickness. For variety, biscuits may be made out with
the hand, instead of being cut with a cutter. Strange
as it seems, so small a matter makes a decided change in
the look and taste of the article, and it is well worth a
house - keeper’s while to study all these little ways of
gratifying that love of novelty so inherent with us all,
but with the young especially.
Tun Biscurr.
A popular bread for the tea-table is supplied by merely
taking as much biscuit-dough as would suffice for one
biscuit, dividing it into two parts, and rolling each part
out round, until the circumference is five inches instead
of three. Stick with a fork here and there over the sur-
face. The cakes will be very thin, of course, and can be
cooked in five minutes, the oven being moderately and
VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. r
steadily heated. Let them brown, but not be the least
burnt. Prepare as many as your family require
.
\
VIRGINIA~COOKERY-BOOK. lui
Tomato Savoy.
Have the tomatoes peeled and sliced, and boil four
pounds of the vegetable in one pint of vinegar and two
pounds of sugar. Season with one ounce each of cinna-
mon, cloves, and mace. Brown sugar seasons tomatoes
better than white.
CHELSEA SAUCE.
Twenty-four large ripe tomatoes, eight white onions,
six pods of red pepper, three pints of good vinegar, eight
table-spoonfuls of brown sugar, a teacupful of salt, one
table-spoonful of cinnamon, one table-spoonful of allspice,
one of nutmeg, and one of cloves. Peel the tomatoes and
chop up the onions. Boil all together well, strain, and
seal up while hot. Many think this sauce superior to
tomato catsup.
PEPPER SAUCE.
To one peck of green peppers and four firm heads of
cabbage chopped fine, and sprinkled with salt, add, after
they have been kept a day and the salt is drained from
them, a handful of horseradish, shredded and cut into
bits, three-quarters of a pound of mustard-seed, six large
onions chopped, and a table-spoonful of turmeric (if you
prefer a yellow color), with a gallon of vinegar. Boil the
spices a few minutes in half the vinegar, and pour it boil-
ing hot over the vegetables. After cooling add the rest
of the vinegar, cold. Put away in wide-mouthed bottles.
CRANBERRY SAUCE.
Put the berries, after carefully picking out defective
ones, into a kettle with just enough water to prevent
burning, and stew until the whole becomes a homogene-
ous mass, with no semblance of whole berries, stirring all
the time, and then add the clarified sirup previously pre-
112 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK.
pared, and stir a few minutes while boiling. The sirup
is made by allowing a quart of water to three pounds of
sugar. Allow equal weights of fruit and sugar.
CELERY SAUCE.
Cut a clean bunch of celery into little bits and boil it
slowly until it is tender; add half a pint of cream, a few
blades of mace, a little nutmeg pulverized, and a heaping
teaspoonful of butter rolled in flour ; then boil it gently.
This is a good sauce for roasted or boiled fowls, turkeys,
or partridges.
DRAWN-BUTTER SAUCE.
Put for one sauce-boatful a quarter of a pound of nice
fresh butter in a stewpan and sect it on some embers un-
til it begins to melt; then take it off and stir one way
until the whole is melted. . It will be quite thick and
white.
Dutcu SAUCE.
The yolks of two eggs and a gill of rich cream, two
and a quarter table-spoonfuls of elder-flower vinegar, one
table-spoonful of the best butter, one blade of mace, and
flour enough creamed in to render it of the consistency
of rich custard, which it should nearly resemble.
Fisu Saucer.
Put in a nicely cleaned tin saucepan a pint of port-
wine, a gill of white-wine, half a pint of walnut catsup,
the rind and juice of a lemon, twelve anchovies and their
liquor, a gill of walnut pickle, four or eight shallots, Cay-
enne pepper to taste, three ounces of scraped horseradish,
three blades of mace, and two teaspoonfuls of made mus-
tard. Boil gently until the rawness is gone, then put it
in small bottles for use. Cork very close and seal. This
VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 118
quantity would serve a small family for the whole of one
season, and will be found very convenient to have on
hand.
LopsTER SAUCE.
The lobster should be chopped much smaller than ordi-
nary, and the sauce should be composed of three parts
cream to one of butter, a little salt, and a slight infusion
of Cayenne pepper.. The whole of the inside and coral of
the lobster should be beaten up with the cream and but-
ter, and the meat then cut in.
SAUCE FOR ROCKFISH.
One pound of butter to be creamed, not oiled, twelve
egos boiled hard for several hours, so that they can be
reduced to a powder, a teacupful of thin flour-starch
made so as to be perfectly smooth—if not, strain, so that
it be entirely free from lumps—then stir the butter and
starch together. To the yolks of the eggs add three or
four salt-spoonfuls of salt, one of Cayenne pepper, two of
black pepper, three teaspoonfuls of mustard (mixed), with
a wineglassful of walnut catsup. The eggs, pepper, salt,
etc., to be well mixed together before putting with the
butter and starch. If made any while before the hour
comes for it to be served, put the sauce where it will keep
warm, but not hot enough for the butter to be allowed to
oil. The above quantity is suited for a pair of large rock-
fish, sufficient to dine a company of twenty.
Sauce FoR Roastep WiLtp Duck.
One salt-spoonful of salt, half to three-quarters of a
teaspoonful of Cayenne pepper, one dessert-spoonful of
lemon juice, one ditto of pounded sugar, one ditto of
catsup, two ditto of Harvey’s Sauce, three ditto of port-
wine ; to be mixed, heated, and poured over the bird, it
114 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK.
having previously been sliced, so that the sauce may mix
with its own gravy. The duck must not be too well done,
and must be put on the dish without anything.
Kaa Sauce.
Prepare a quarter of a pound of butter as for plain
melted or drawn-butter sauce; boil two eggs for ten min-
utes; chop the whites, put with the yolks and chop to-
‘gether, but not very fine, and then stir into the sauce.
This sauce is very nice for boiled fowls, more especially
in the spring of the year.
SaucE FOR VENISON.
Claret, water, and vinegar, of each one glass; an onion
stuck with cloves, a few anchovies, salt and pepper, of
each a salt-spoonful; boil all together, strain, and serve
in a sauce-boat.
GREEN TomMATO CaTSUP.
Put on a kettle of green tomatoes, boil them to pieces, .
and strain through a colander; measure them, and to
one and a half gallons of tomatoes put one pound of
sugar, one pint of vinegar, one table-spoonful of whole
black pepper, a double-handful of salt, two chopped
‘onions, one table-spoonful of celery-seed, and a teaspoon-
‘ful of powdered cloves; boil all together until the watery
particles disappear and it becomes something like mar-
malade; then bottle and seal.
Coutp Tomato Sauce.
Half a peck of ripe tomatoes, peeled and drained through
a colander for twenty-four hours, then chopped up fine;
put to them one small teacupful of salt, one full cup of
sugar, one cup of white mustard-seed, one cup of nastur-
VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 115
tium-seed, feur table-spoonfuls of horseradish, two dozen
stalks of celery chopped up fine, or half an ounce of. cel-
ery-seed, two table-spoonfuls of ground black pepper, one
quart of good vinegar; it must not be boiled; stir well,
and bottle for use. This sauce can be used as soon as
made.
SAvucE FoR LETTUcE.
Boil two eggs hard; mash the yolks with a very little
cold water; add one teaspoonful of sugar, one of mustard,
‘not quite one of salt; mix these well with the yolks; add
slowly three table-spoonfuls of oil, until it is smooth, and
one table-spoonful of vinegar; if too thick, add a table-
spoonful of water.
Mint SavucE FoR LAmps.
Gather a few sprigs of branch mint, pick off the tender
young leaves after washing the mint clean; lay them in
a plate and chop up fine with a common dinner-knife ;
put the mint in the bottom of a sauce-boat, add a full
table-spoonful of white sugar, two table-spoonfuls of vin-
egar, and half a gill of ice-water. This sauce is indispen-
sable for young lamb in the spring months.
-APPLE SAUCE FOR GOOSE.
Peel, core, and cut up a gallon of pippins or other
fresh apples; stew them, with a little water added, grate
in a bit of the peel of a lemon and all its juice; sweeten
to your taste when the apples are done very tender, mash
them up perfectly smooth, and serve.
Russian SAUCE.
Four table-spoonfuls of finely-grated horseradish, two
of made mustard, one teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful
of sugar, and vinegar enough to cover.
116 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK.
Tomato Carsup, No. 1.
Boil the tomatoes well, seasoning them to taste with
salt ; strain them through a sieve; to every gallon of
liquor put one quart of vinegar, two table-spoonfuls of
mustard, half an ounce of cloves, half an ounce of mace,
half an ounce of red pepper, twelve cloves of garlic, or
their equivalent in onion, and half an ounce of ginger;
crack up all these spices, put them in a thin muslin bag,
and simmer six hours over the fire in a preserving-kettle.
Sugar to be put in or left out as you like. :
Tomato Cartsup, No. 2.
One peck of tomatoes, half a dozen onions chopped fine,
two table-spoonfuls of whole black pepper, one table-
spoonful of allspice, one table-spoonful of cloves, two of
celery-seed, two of ground mustard, four of salt, or more, -
if that is not enough to your taste; half a pound of brown
sugar. . Measure the spices whole, but pound them all up
fine afterward, the tomatoes to be strained clear of skin
and seed, and the onions to be chopped as fine as possible.
Tomato Catsup, No. 8.
One gallon of tomato juice, two pounds of sugar, seven
table-spoonfuls of salt, four table-spoonfuls of black pep-
per, half a table-spoonful of allspice, three table-spoonfuls
of mustard, half a pod of red pepper, and a little horse-
radish. Boil well, and just before taking off the fire add
one quart of good vinegar.
A Nicer Srore SAvce.
Take one gallon of ripe tomatoes, wash, and simmer
them in three quarts of water; boil it half away, and strain
through a sieve; when all is drained add two table-spoon-
eo ee
Se ee ieee.
VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 11?
fuls of ginger, one of mace, two of black pepper, two of
salt, one of cloves, one of Cayenne pepper ; let these pul-
verized spices simmer in the juice until it is reduced to
one quart, pour in half a pint of best vinegar, then pour
the whole through a hair-sieve. Bottle in half-pint bot-
tles, cork tightly, and seal. Keep in a cool place.
ToMATO SAUCE.
Peel tomatoes and press through a colander. To every
gallon of juice add two pounds of sugar, a quarter of a
pound of salt, four onions chopped fine, two pods of red
pepper, or one table-spoonful of Cayenne, two ounces of
ground mustard, and half a teacupful of celery-seed. If
you do not like a sweet sauce, omit the sugar or a portion
of it. Just as the recipe is given it has been found a good
appetizer eaten with beef or other meat in the spring, that
most trying of all seasons to a house-keeper.
OysTER SAUCE.
Put fifty oysters, with a small quantity of their liquor,
in a saucepan; stew them very slowly; add four ounces
of good butter rolled in flour, four blades of mace broken
up, and half a pint of sweet cream; beat up the yolk of
one egg, and add for thickening just as the sauce is about
to boil ; stir one way until everything is well mixed. Do
not begin to prepare this sauce until about twenty min-
utes before it is to be served, as it is very apt to curdle
if kept a moment too long upon the fire.
CucUMBER SAUCE.
Chop up fine several cucumbers (the full, ripe yellow
ones answer perfectly), sprinkle them well with salt, and
let them stand thus for several hours; then with the hand
press from them all the salt brine. To every quart of cu-
118 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK.
cumbers thus prepared add four ounces of white mustard-
seed, four ounces of black mustard-seed, and two pods of
red pepper of the ordinary size. If you can procure them,
though, use a dozen tiny pods of red pepper, such as can
be procured in some city markets. Put in air-tight glass
jars, and cover with vinegar; mix well together, and see
that the covers are tight, and the sauce is made. Al-
though fit for use immediately it will keep a year.
Bay Sauce.
Take one quart of strong vinegar, add four spoonfuls
of mustard-seed (white and black), four of horseradish
scraped, two onion bulbs, one pod of red pepper, and a
little salt; steep cold, and it will be fit for use in two
weeks. Bottle, and substitute it for catsup with fish or
stewed meat.
GOOSEBERRY CATSUP.
Ten pounds of fruit gathered just before ripening, five
pounds of sugar, one quart of vinegar, two table-spoon-
fuls each of ground black pepper, allspice, cloves, and
cinnamon. Boil the fruit in vinegar until reduced to a
pulp, then add sugar and the other seasoning.
Watnut Cartsup, No. 1.
Prepare the walnuts as for pickle, then pound them in
a marble mortar or an iron pot, and boil them, with vine-
gar, garlic, and spices to your taste. Boil in an iron pot:
it makes them black; strain and bottle for use. Put the
walnuts away in a jar, covered with vinegar, It furnishes
an excellent condiment for stews, fish, etc.
Watnout Catsup, No, 2.
Made from walnut-shells without cooking. Three gal-
lons of. walnut-shell juice, seven pounds of salt, eight
te ae ee a ee -
a f
VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 119
ounces of ginger, eight ounces of shallots, eight ounces of
garlic, eight ounces of horseradish, one quart of essence
of anchovies, one quart of vinegar, and two pounds of
sugar. ,
CucumMBErR CarTsup.
No cooking required. ‘Three large cucumbers peeled
and grated, one handful of horseradish scraped and cut
into thin little bits, one onion peeled and chopped up
fine, one pint of cider vinegar, one teaspoonful of salt,
one teaspoonful of black pepper. Six tiny pods of dwarf
Cayenne pepper add to the flavor and look pretty. Mix
all the ingredients together. Put the catsup in wide-
mouthed bottles, cork, seal, and keep in a dry place.
W ORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE.
Take one gallon ripe tomatoes, wash and simmer them
in three quarts of water, boil down, and strain through
a sieve. When all is drained add two table-spoonfuls of
ginger, two of mace, two of whole black pepper, two of
salt, one of cloves, one of Cayenne. Let them simmer
in the juice until reduced to one quart; pour in half a
pint of best vinegar; pour the whole through a hair-
sieve; bottle in half-pint bottles, cork down tightly, seal,
and keep in a cool place.
120 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK.
CHAPTER XI.
VEGETABLES.
Artichoke.—Asparagus.—French, or Snap Beans.—Lima Beans.—
Beets.—Carrots.—Cabbage.—Cabbage Pudding, No. 1.—Cabbage
Pudding, No. 2.—Cauliflower and Broccoli.—To Boil Corn on the
Ear.—To Stew Corn, No. 1.—To Stew Corn, No. 2.—To Fry Corn.
—To Bake Corn.—To Cook Dried Corn.—To Cook Cucumbers.—
Cymlings, or Summer Squash.— To Bake Egg-plant.—To Fry
Egg -plant.— Grits, or Small Hominy.—To Bake Grits.— Fried
Grits.—To Boil Hominy.— Macaroni.— Okra.— Onions.— Onions
a la Créme.-—To Boil Old Potatoes.—To Boil Irish Potatoes.—To
Steam Potatoes.—Mashed Potatoes.—Baked Potatoes.—Fried Po-
tatoes for Dinner.—Sweet Potatoes.—Irish Potatoes Roasted.—
Parsnips.—Green Peas.—Dried Peas or Beans.—To Boil Rice.—
A Colored Cook Tells how to Dress Rice.—Baked Rice.—To Fry
Salsify.—To Stew Salsify.—To Bake Salsify.—To Stew Spinach.
—To Broil Tomatoes.—To Bake Tomatoes.—To Stew ‘Tomatoes.
—Forced Tomatoes.—Turnips.—Turnip-tops.—Baked Turnips.—
Corn and Tomatoecs—Tomatoes with Eggs,
ARTICHOKE.
THERE are two kinds of artichoke used as vegetables,
The first was frequently seen on the tables of the rich in
old Virginia, rarely now. It is a thistle-like plant, and
the part brought to table is the cone-shaped head, the
bottom, as it is called, being considered a great delicacy.
To prepare them for food trim off the outside leaves
neatly, and boil in salt-and-water until tender. If young
half an hour will be time enough. Serve in a covered
dish, with accompaniment of a boat of creamed butter
sauce. Special little cups should be set at each cover for
the sauce, to which individuals add at pleasure pepper,
salt, and vinegar. .Hach person pulls out the choke for
himself and dips the edible part into his cup of sauce.
VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK., 121
Another way of serving artichokes is to send them to
table raw, just as we do radishes. To eat them this way
they must be gathered when very young and tender, cut
through the bottom into quarters, and the choke removed.
Thus they are accounted delicious, having the flavor of a
fine nut. The sauce used is usually one of pepper, salt,
vinegar, and olive oil.
Jerusalem artichoke is an entirely different vegetable.
The part eaten is its tuber-like root. Boil them as pota-
toes are boiled, being careful to cook them rapidly, and
dish without delay, as they are spoiled by standing for any
length of time. Pour over them a little butter and cream
when sent to table.
ASPARAGUS, |
In Virginia asparagus is not allowed to show itself
more than an inch above ground at farthest. The gar-
dener slips his knife underground and cuts the stalk off
four or five inches beneath the surface. Thus cut, if the
beds are rich and well-tended, the white part is just as
tender as the blossom end. Well grown it should be
nearly or quite an inch in diameter.
Let the cook scrape well, to make sure of leaving no
part stringy or tough, and lay the stalks in cold water
until about half an hour before dinner; then tie up the
asparagus into two bundles for one dishful, put it into
boiling water into which you have thrown a dessert-
spoonful of salt, and cook until tender. Have ready-
toasted several slices of stale bread, dip them into the
water in which the asparagus was boiled for one second
only, butter well, and lay in the bottom of your vegeta-
ble-dish. Cut the string from your bundles of asparagus
and remove them just as you dish it, and serve, under
cover, ho¢. Put a good table-spoonful of nice fresh butter
on the asparagus, in addition to that put upon the toast.
6
122 ; VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK.
FRENCH, OR SNAP BEANS.
Cut off the stalk end first, then turn to the point and
strip off the strings. If not quite freshly gathered, have
a bowl of salt-water (only a little salt) standing before
you, and as you string the beans throw them into it.
When all are prepared put them on the fire in boiling
water, with some salt init. In fifteen or twenty minutes
they will be tender ; then take them out and throw them
into a colander to drain quickly. Dish them up with a
little butter, salt, and pepper. Butter is thought to keep
them looking green. ;
Lima BEANS.
Shell them, and put them into hot water to boil, after
letting them lie a few minutes in cold water; add a little
salt to the water, which must only be. enough to cover
them well. They should be done in half an hour. Drain
and add a teaspoonful of butter to a pint of the beans.
If Lima beans are spread out to dry in their shells,
gathered green as for summer use, they are most useful
in winter both for soup and as a vegetable. ‘They are to
be soaked, then, several hours before they are put on to
boil, which will require from four to five hours, instead of
the few minutes allotted to them in summer. No vege-
table is more generally liked.
BEktTs.
Very early in summer this vegetable is most popular,
seldom afterward. It is important to select the earliest,
most improved varieties for cookery. The blood-red tur-
nip-shaped and Egyptian early are believed to be the
best. Observe that neither the top is cut too close nor
that the fibres of the root are torn off, unless you would
ee as ee aa
VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 123
lose much of the sweetness and brightness of color. For
the same reason the cook should not pierce it in any way
to ascertain if it is done. Allow from one to two hours
for the boiling, according to the size of your beets.
When done peel them, and slice up in thin, round pieces,
adding a little salt and small bit of butter, also vinegar
for most tastes.
If beets are left over from one dinner, by covering
with vinegar and adding a little sugar, they make a nice
dish the second day also.
CARROTS
Are to be simply boiled in hot water with a little salt
added, after having been previously scraped free of skin
and blemish of all sorts; split them in half lengthwise,
and pour a little melted butter over them when dished.
Amid the abundance of vegetables with which our coun-
try is blessed carrots are generally despised, but the
thrifty housewife will never be without a few of them in
winter, for they are invaluable as a condiment in many
stews and soups, to say nothing of serving as material
for a delicious pudding.
CABBAGE.
This vegetable, so staple an article of food among out-
of-door workers, has fallen into general disuse with the
upper classes on account of the disagreeable odor it emits,
permeating every corner of an ordinarily constructed
house from garret to cellar. The best way to prevent
this is to keep the vessel closely covered in which it boils,
to drop in a bit of red pepper-pod and a pinch of soda,
to allow it just time enough to cook and no more; and,
lastly, for the cook to pour off the cabbage-water as soon
as she lifts the cover and sends it to table. Wash the
124 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK.
head nicely—one large head makes a good dish—and put
it on in boiling water, slightly salted, after having cut it
into quarters, and allow it forty minutes in which to cook
over a brisk fire. Dressed as cauliflower, with drawn-
butter sauce, it may be almost as delicate. Most persons,
however, preferring it with some sort of salt meat, we
give the directions for cooking it in that way thus: Hay-
ing your ham, chine, or middling nearly ready for dinner,
take out enough of the liquor in which it has been boil-
ing to cover the cabbage, which had better be cooked in
a separate stewpan, and treat it otherwise just as if it
were plain water; drain from the liquor, and having put
your joint of meat in the centre of a large meat-dish, put
the cabbage all around, and you have before you the
daily and favorite dish of nine-tenths of the country peo-
ple, not only in Virginia, but throughout the South, with
the addition of a plentiful supply of hot corn bread.
More elegantly, the cabbage is frequently sent to table,
however, separately, in a covered vegetable-dish, where
it may be kept hot longer.
CaBBAGE Pupprne, No. 1.
Take one nice head of cabbage, scoop out the middle;
prepare a rich force-meat made out of cold fowl, or fresh
beef chopped up fine; season highly with butter, pepper,
and salt; chop six hard-boiled eggs fine, with the force-
meat ; fill the cavity in the cabbage with this mixture ;
place a leaf of the cabbage over the hole to keep the
meat in; tie it up in a cloth and boil it, serying up with
drawn-butter sauce.
CaBBAGE Puppine, No. 2.
Boil a firm head of cabbage, chop it fine, and season
with butter, pepper, and salt; add any kind of fowl or
VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 125
cold meat that you may happen to have, and, mixing all
together with a pint of bread-crumbs, bake in a dish until
nicely browned.
CAULIFLOWER AND Broccot.t.
Choose those heads that are close and of a middle size :
trim off the outside leaves, and cut off the stalk flat at ‘the
bottom; let them lie an hour in salt-water before boiling;
put them into enough hot water to cover them, with a
small handful of salt thrown in, and let them boil slowly
until done; but take up instantly when this is the case, for
a few minutes’ longer boiling will spoil them ; a small one
will boil in fifteen, or a large one in twenty, minutes.
To Bom Corn on THE Ear.
Strip the husks off, and rub off smoothly every particle
of silk; to a gallon of boiling water allow a spoonful of
salt; drop in as many ears of corn as your family requires,
and boil for one hour. Be very careful, in the selection of
corn, that it be matured, but at the same time tender ;
upon pressing the thumb-nail into the grain, if the milk
exudes freely, it may be calculated that it is in the right
state for boiling.
To Stew Corn, No.4.
The best corn for the table has a small cob, and very
long, deep-set grains ; notice this in making your selec-
tion for seed, or in market With a sharp knife cut
the corn off the ear with two cuts, and then lay the cobs
in a stewpan, covering them with water, and let them boil
for about an hour. This extracts the sweetest part of the
corn always lying next the cob; take the cobs out, and
then, half an hour before dinner is to be served, put the
cut grain into the same water and let it simmer gently
a6. VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOE. —
until called for; serve hot, with butter; a gill of sweet
milk, a teaspoonful of salt, and a little pepper must be put
in the stew just long enough to be well incorporated before
it is taken off to be dished. If these directions are pre-
cisely followed, there is no nicer way of cooking this pe-
culiarly popular American vegetable.
To Stew Corn, No. 2.
Cut off the grains, dividing each one as directed in the
previous recipe, and then with a sharp knife scrape out
the heart of the corn, leaving the cob quite bare, save of
the hull; put about a quart of corn, measured after it is
cut off, in a skillet with enough water to cover it, stir it
frequently, and in half an hour, when it will be nearly
done, add a gill of rich sweet milk, a teaspoonful of salt,
and a little pepper, if you choose. If the corn is not
sweet, a teaspoonful of sugar will not be found amiss;
a beaten egg may also be added, where a rich dish is
desired.
To Fry Corn.
Cut the corn off the cob, and to a pint of it allowa
small lump of butter, a beaten egg, and half a pint of
sweet milk; add enough flour to enable you to make out
the corn into small round cakes. Grease a griddle, and
fry them till nicely browned.
To BaxE Corn.
This dish is so popular, that it is well to make an ample
provision of it. Therefore, for a large family, take eigh-
teen ears of corn, cut the grain off the cob very fine, and
scrape down with a sharp-pointed knife; put it in a baking-
dish with three pints of sweet milk, a table-spoonful of
butter, a dessert-spoonful of salt, and two well-beaten
eggs; mix all well together, butter the dish, and allow
VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. _ hee
two hours for the baking. Occasionally, if one wishes a
richer pudding for some special company, the butter may
be increased to a quarter of a pound, and the eggs to four;
but the above proportions answer admirably for every-
day use.
To Coox Drizp Corn.
The improvement made in drying corn has been so
great within the last year or two that it is really almost
as good as the fresh vegetable, if properly prepared. It
is better to soak it in lukewarm water all night long be-
fore it is wanted for dinner; but if the house-keeper has
omitted this, steaming it for two hours will soften it quite
well. It may be stewed just like green corn; but to make
it into a pudding with milk, eggs, and butter, suits the
taste of the majority better. For a half-gallon baking-
dish use one pint of corn, one of milk, one egg, a lump
of butter the size of a walnut, two teaspoonfuls of white
sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, and a slight sprinkling of
epper.
eis To Cook CucuMBERs.
If you wish to fry them pare off the rind, then cut
them in slices lengthwise ; dust each side with corn meal
or flour, pepper, and salt, and fry them in lard a light
brown. If you prefer boiling, cut them lengthwise into
quarters, and cook precisely as you do asparagus, serv-
ing them up also with butter, cream, and toasted bread.
Choose for this purpose medium-sized, full-grown cucum-
bers, and you will not be disappointed in having a nice
and appetizing dish.
CYMLINGS, oR SUMMER SQUASH.
In selecting cymlings take none that the thumb-nail
cannot easily penetrate, and the white ones are prefera-
ble. Cut them into pieces, and boil in just enough water
128 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK.
- to cover them for about three-quarters of an hour, or un-
til soft enough to mash; strain them through a colander
to get rid of the seeds; then return them to a skillet or
stewpan; add a large spoonful of cream, a small lump of
sweet butter, and a little salt and pepper. Be sure to
send them to table hot. Colored cooks need to be warned
not to flavor cymlings with bacon-grease, of which they
are fond, but which is apt to render this delicious vegeta-
ble inedible for more refined palates.
To BakE EGG-PLANT.
Peel and cut in slices and boil until soft; then mash
and bake with crumbs of bread, butter, pepper, and salt,
arranged in layers, as you would oysters or tomatoes.
To Fry EGG-PLant.
Choose them young and fresh (the purple variety is the
best) ; pull out the stem and parboil them, to take out the
bitter taste ; cut in slices an inch thick, but do not peel;
dip them into the yolk of egg, and cover them with grated
bread-crumbs dusted with pepper and salt. When dry cover
the other side in the same way. Fry them a nice brown.
This is a luscious vegetable, and deserves to come into
more frequent use, its rarity being probably due to the
great difficulty in raising it successfully, on account of its
being so peculiarly susceptible to the ravages of bugs.
Grits, on Smatt Hominy.
Samp is another name for this preparation of shelled
and dried corn. To half a pint allow one quart of water,
after seeing that the grits are well washed and every dark
speck picked out; boil carefully in a stewpan set inside
of another one, to prevent burning, if you have not one
made with double lining specially for such cooking. The
VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 129
great art in cooking small hominy is to have it of just the
right consistency, neither too mushy nor too stiff and dry.
A little experience teaches one how to manage it. If the
_water has not been sufficiently evaporated, as the dinner-
hour draws near move the kettle to one side, and lifting
up the lid from time to time to let the steam escape, it
will probably be dry enough. If it becomes too stiff add
gradually a little more boiling water and stir well. Serve
hot, with a seasoning of butter that should be mixed in,
not left floating on top.
To Bake Grits.
A nice variety in your list of winter vegetables is sup-
plied by taking as much boiled small hominy as will
nearly fill a small baking-dish, adding one beaten egg, a
gill of sweet milk, and a table-spoonful of butter, and
then baking for a good hour or more.
FRIED Grits.
When a dish of grits is left over from dinner spread it
out on a dish in a layer half an inch thick. The next day,
for breakfast or dinner, as you choose, cut it into pieces
of convenient size, and fry nicely in lard. With many in
the South this is quite a favorite dish.
To Bort Hominy.
Wash in cold water; then soak twelve hours in tepid
soft water; then boil slowly from three to six hours in
the same water, more being added from time to time, to
prevent burning. Do not salt while cooking, as either
that or hard water will harden the corn, as is true also of
rice, peas, or beans in their green or dry state. When
you have hominy left from dinner it may be saved and
fried for breakfast next morning.
6*
130 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK.
~~
MACARONI.
Italian macaroni is far superior in quality to what is
manufactured either in France or this country, and costs
little more, as it swells greatly in cooking. Half a pound
will fill a half-gallon dish full. Baking is the best way
of preparing it. Throw your macaroni, broken into tol-
erably short pieces, in boiling water, allowing it plenty
of room to swell, and let it cook for twenty-five minutes;
when perfectly tender take it from the water and let it
drain through a colander; then put a layer of it in the
bottom of a baking-dish; dot it over with bits of butter,
adding grated cheese, Cayenne pepper, and salt; put an- _
other layer of macaroni, etc., until the dish is filled; pour
in a teacupful of sweet milk; allow a quarter of a pound
of butter to the dish; finish by grating cheese over the
top; place the dish in the stove, and let it bake for about
half an hour, or until nicely browned. Do not let it dry
up too much by delay in serving. Although baked mac-
aroni is the choice way of cooking, it may not always be
convenient to have it done so, when stewing will answer
very well. Follow the first part of the directions given
above, in case you wish to stew it, only instead of drain-
ing pour off the water till nearly dry; then add a gill of
sweet milk or cream, flavor with grated cheese, salt, and
Cayenne pepper, and serve simply in a covered vegetable-
dish.
OKRA.
This vegetable grows well in Virginia, if not so luxu-
riantly as farther South, and yet is rarely used save in
soup. It is regarded as indispensable in many families
to their daily dish of tomato soup, and for this purpose
alone is well worth cultivating. It should be gathered
when the pods are so tender as to have no hardness about
ae
VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 131
them, when they must be sliced thin, and at least a pint
allowed to a tureen; it should be put in an hour before
dinner-time. We append a recipe for cooking okra as a
vegetable, given by Miss M. E. W: , of Selma, Ala.:
Put the young and tender pods of long, white okra in
salted boiling water, in a porcelain or tin-lined saucepan
(as iron discolors it); boil fifteen minutes; take off stems,
and serve with butter, pepper, salt, and vinegar, if pre-
ferred; or, after boiling, slice in rings, season with but-
ter, dip in batter, and fry; season and serve. Or stew an
equal quantity of tomatoes and tender-sliced okra with
one or two sliced green peppers, in a porcelain kettle,
fifteen or twenty minutes; season with butter, pepper,
and salt, and serve.
ONIONS.
In the early spring large bulbs of the white, silver-
skinned onions not only make a very pretty dish, but are
thought to possess valuable medicinal qualities. Cut off
the stem-leaves, not too close, and after washing clean and
peeling drop into cold water and boil ten minutes; pour
off this water; add fresh cold water, and boil again the
same length of time; pour off again, and to the third
water add a pint of milk, and boil for an hour. _When
ready to dish, thicken a little of the milk-and-water in
which the onions have been boiled with a teaspoonful
of flour and a small picce of butter; add a little salt,
and, if you like it, sprinkle a little black pepper on top.
Onions A LA CREME.
Boil a dozen fine, white silver-skinned onions in several
waters, to take out some of the pungent taste, and then
peel them, and dry them off in a cloth until cold enough
to handle, and slice them; have ready a good pint of
grated bread-crumbs, a quarter of a pound of butter, and
132 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK.
a teacupful of cream, or rich milk, if you have not cream.
Distribute all these ingredients in layers of onion and
seasoning alternately, with the addition of pepper’ and
salt, and you will have a dish much admired, by gentle-
men particularly. Finish off with a thick layer of bread-
crumbs; pour on the cup of cream lastly, and bake for
three-quarters of an hour.
To Bort Oxtp PoTATOEs.
Peel them and put them into boiling salt-water ; when
done they must be taken out and pressed (separately) in a
clean strong cloth until entirely free from water. Dress
them with melted butter.
Or,
Put the potatoes in cold water, and when it nearly boils
pour it off and put in cold salted water. This makes
them mealy without cracking them.
To Bor, Irtsu Porarors.
The great secret of having nice potatoes is, first, to
choose a good mealy variety, and then to cook them ex-
peditiously, not leaving them waiting an hour or so in
the kitchen, only to become sodden and waxy. Garden-
ers of late have shown so much enterprise in introducing —
improved varieties that it is hard to give the names of
even a few of the best, and so we shall content ourselves
with exhorting the house-keeper to be choice in her selec-
tion of the very best that her neighborhood affords, if she
would display her culinary art to the best advantage.
New potatoes need not be peeled, but washed clean,
and the soft skin rubbed off with a rough towel, as scrap-
ing with a knife discolors them; pour off the first water
(which may be cold when you put the potatoes in) after
they have boiled ten minutes in it; then cover them well
VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 133
with fresh water, boiling hot, into which you have thrown
a table-spoonful of salt ; let them boil half an hour in a
covered kettle; then pour off the water, lift the lid of the
kettle, and let the potatoes dry a few minutes. They are
generally served with nothing but a little melted butter
poured over them, but a very nice change is to take a gill
of sweet milk and thicken it by rubbing into it mashed
potato and a little flour until the sauce is of the consist-
ence of very rich cream, then make it boiling-hot and
pour over the potatoes after they are dished. Occasion-
ally, too, a little chopped parsley may be added to this
sauce to make another change.
To Stream Porarors
Is one of the nicest ways of serving them, and nowadays
most kitchens are supplied with the convenience of a reg-
ular steamer, with top fitting closely over a hot-water
vessel, where not only potatoes but other vegetables may
be carried through the steaming process. The time for
steaming greatly depends upon the quality of the potato,
so that no invariable rule can be given—an hour, I should
say, is about the medium time to allow. If the potatoes
are large and small put in the larger ones a few minutes
in advance, so that they may be done at the same time.
Masuep Poratoxrs
Are either steamed or boiled,.as suits your convenience.
Do not let the potatoes be kept waiting, but put them in
a convenient pan or bowl, and mash them up with your
potato-masher as smooth as possible; add a lump of but-
ter and salt to the taste, with much or little milk or
cream, as suits your taste or the condition of your dairy.
If beaten up light, with plenty of cream, potatoes are a
ereat dainty; but for every-day use they may be much
434 VIRGINIA CUOKERY-BOOK.
more economically served, and still be wholesome and
palatable.
BaxEeD PorTaTOES
Are first boiled or steamed, then mashed and seasoned
with butter, milk or cream, pepper, and salt, when they
are arranged smoothly and evenly in an earthen-ware
baking-dish, and kept in the oven until nicely browned.
Frizp Potatrors FoR DINNER.
Season as much mashed potato as will provide enough
for your family, and make up with the yolk of an egg
into little flat cakes, and fry on a well-greased griddle
until they are of a pretty brown color. Turn them, so
that they may be equally done on both sides.
SWEET-POTATOES.
The finest sweet-potatoes are grown in the tide-water
regions of lower Virginia, where the soil is sandy and the
winters mild. Almost all families there have a pit dug
in some cellar, where sweet-potatoes are kept without
difficulty all the winter through; but the most prized
variety is too delicate for transportation, and is kept for
home consumption. }
The usual every-day way of cooking them is to bake
them with the skins on, always seeing to it that a print
of butter is put on the table to eat with them. An
hour is the usual time allotted for their baking. : 5.5.00. « 302
Berets BiCCrs ween di welt cs 301
er’s
eeeceerereereereeer eer er ee ee
326 INDEX.
PAGE 5 PAGE
Ginger Cake, Preston......... 187 | Icing, Pink Coloring for...... 197
Ginger Cake, Mrs. J. R. Page’s. 188} Icing, Transparent........... 196
Ginger Shapes: . a. peek ae 189 | Isinglass Jelly, oy. a2 essen 218
Goose, Epicure’s Improvement E
CO MERODE ise wien: ieee ore oe eee 87 Jelly... 3 ee ee 239
Goose, to Roast a.........45. 87 | Jelly, Apple?) 3) aauelectaetenn 230
Gooseberry-fool .........054. 212 | Jelly, Apple, Beautiful........ 230
Griddle, to Grease a......... 33 | Jelly, Calf’s-foot............ elt
Grits, or Small Hominy....... 128 | Jelly, Cream) . 45 eee . 221
Grits; to Bakery 2.0 wee en 129.|.delly, Fox-prapesi. oa eae 234
Grits, to Bry Sse eo An 129 | Jelly, Lemonade........ eonae ale
Cratiel soi, csc olge eslatis oaks arate 310 | Jelly, Orange ...s.ccscdecewe SLO
Jélly, Tapidca.. 2... aceee eee 310
Ham, 9. Stufled. 0,22 <4 ones» 274 | Jelly without Eggs or Boil-
Yiam, Prize Recipe for Cur- ING. 2... sb eee 218
ie ei erans ey Se ee eee 276 | Jelly without Wine.......... 228
Ham-to Boll: aan een eae 276 | Jerusalem Cream......... Pere A E
Ham, to Broil Nicely a....... 274 | Johnnie Cake 2.2... esc ccls 28
Ham, to Cure by Pickling..... 271
Hash, Dakode: $3. go onset ale 105 | Kisses...... o> solsiatunaoee eee 296
Wen,a Boned a. see we a tenes 144
Hen’s Nest, to Make a........ 224 | Lapland Cakes, Nos.land2... 24
Herrings Boiled, with Mustard Lemon Honey cea. sates Bee A
SOUCEs oc ss ao sie eee ee a eae 65 | Lemons... .sceiaeeeee Latins pmeeiie
Herrings, to Boil Plain....... 64 | Limes”: ).°, <3. cyte een . 313
Herrings, to Dress Fresh...... 64 | Loaf, Bachelor’s...........-: 8
Herrings, to Pickle.......... 277 Loaf, Federal, .2 254s aie om onan
Hoe -Uake.... 2 2.) ence eanrea on 30 | Loaf, Golden, of Albemarle. . 14
Hominy Batter Cakes........ 32 | Loaf, Powhatan ote tataea AG 12
Hominy, to Boil..... 129 Lobster Pie... sane ae 68
Lobstér Sauces... 2iacmue wee
Ice-cream, Apple........0+2. 206 | Lobster, Stewed ........... sis. y UE
Ice-cream, Banana........... 215
Ice-cream, Caramel .......... 206 | Macaroni... Gene. alas ..- 180
Ice-cream, Chocolate ......... 208 | Marmalade, Orange .......... 247
Ice-cream, Cocoa-nut......... 207 | Marmalade, Quince .......... 247
Ice-cream, Coffee, Nos. 1 and Meat Jelly, to Make Nice ..... 149
DE Meetatietn Dead stems agrees aes 209 | Meat Puddings. ae. wee 272
Ice-cream, Economical........ 201 | Mint Julep....... eric +a) O12
Ice-cream, General Directions Molasses Candy ......eee0. «+ 298
for Making: Voce aece 198-200 | Molasses Candy, Newport..... 295
Icing, Boiled. Veiia e.g eeees 196.) Muffins"... Sa. camer ».0 «osha ene
Icing, Chocolate............. 197 | Muffins, English........... ineee
Icing for Cake, Nos, 1 and 2... 195 Muffins, Hannah’s........... 11
INDEX.
PAGE
PIGS RCO. eS ee. oes aa 28
ue cier Pe Cie Sate as ote Oke 3809
PPE RVC sinc secs ce ie eee ee 311
Mushrooms with Cream...... ee
Mushrooms with White Sauce.. 147
Mutton, to Roast, like Venison. 94
MMH k cscs ace eeee 26
0S oe eee 130
Old Hen Made into a Nice Dish. 107
PENNS Saint os ee ce a e's oe 15
Omelette, Friar’s ............ 178
Omelette, Very Superior...... 46
Omelette with Beef .......... 48
Omelette with Ham.......... 48
Omelette with Potato ........ 48
OS a ar ra 131
Onions & la Créme........... 131
CMO POG yr ePowtsiarn <'e'e «.0'e a's 9 4 310
LS a 6 or 51
Oyster Loaves. 2.5... 0208s 52
RPPOROTIEGILY cc. ote ces ese 51
Oyster Pie, Baltimore......... 56
RPS OTIOUD is 5 ain cea secs wet 54
Oyrers Cream. oe ee ches 55
Oysters, to Bake. ....0 cece cc's 51
Oyerere, to Broile se... ees ees 50
Oysters, to Fry. ..oos0 bees ees 52
Oysters, to Pickle. ........... 54
Oysters, to Pickle (Richmond
RDA ritate ako’ se = oe oe + a's 55
Oysters, Ragoit of........... 56
Oysters, Raw ........ sheen ee 49
Oysters, Roasted .........00. 50
Oysters, Scolloped ........... 50
Oysters, Stewed ...........6. 49
BMA ING, Visa ois ks we use v0 307
PAM ENO: Seis so yiesca as css 308
PPOMCMRUS. cians ogee ste «clas 303
Pancakes, Scotch..... Bix Paes 308
MBESHIPS sas asso ss o's 0 Parties 135
Partridges 4 la Daube........ 148
327
PAGE
Partridges or Pheasants, to
TROASER Moiete gk cates os a oa'e'e . 88
PLC LG a Socal sc css usa a ase obs 162
Pastry (Another Way)........ 164
Pastry, BOUed ./.0.0 cc's 5 ai0.c's os 164
Pens; Green in. ess ek ee es 135
Peas or Dried Beans......... 136
PeaCD CHIDS Fins watslees's 06% 0 296
Peach: Leather’ <3 v2. a.'s0a= e- 297
Peaches, Brandy... ccs is es 250
Peaches, Frozen ...........0. 216
Peaches, SOLE) ee oe. wate co otis ee 313
Peaches, to Can ........0082% 249
Peaches, to Preserve ........:. 240
Pears, to Preserve ..........: 243
Perlis CcDIOl < oars elds c se ee 66
PRECIO LOL BEY. oe cals sine os © ons 65
Perch with Caper Sauce....... 66
PPICCAMLLO ae intel steels 2 < afewnre oe 146
Pickle, Buck and Breck....... 266
Pickle; Capnage...ccc.cc ca sm ce « 255
Pickle, Cabbage, Chopped..... 256
Pickle, Cantaloupe, Ripe...... 267
Pickle, Chow-Chow, No.1..... 261
Pickle, Chow-Chow,Nos. 2 and 3. 262
Pickle, Cut-cucumber......... 258
Pickle, German, or Sweet...... 264
Fickle, Green, No. 1. 3.23.26 253
Pickle, Green, No. 2......... . 254
Pickle, Green Mangoes.,...... 255
Pickle, Green Tomato, Nos. 1
BEG Berane so § Sosa & siecolare « 259
Pickle, How to Stuff Forty Cu-
G@UIDDOTS sy aaislerels aise were tetee 264
Pickle, Martinoes.........6-. 258
Pickle, Mushrooms........... 263
Piekiey O1On cf. 502 os sels sare 260
Pickle, Peach Mangoes, No,1.. 256
Pickle, Peach Mangoes, No. 2.. 257
Pickle bOpper 2 eas. od cae es 263
Pickle, Pepper Mangoes ...... 257
Pickle, Ripe Tomato......... 259
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