Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 
 in 2015 
 
 https://archive.org/details/photographsofglaOOforb 
 
I 
 
PHOTOGRAPHS 
 
 OF 
 
 GLASGOW, 
 
 WITH 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE LETTERPRESS- 
 
 BY 
 
 REV. A. G. FORBES. 
 
 " For Christian merchants we make our pica, 
 The pulse of the business world are we ; 
 With tenants and servants at our command, 
 And spending ever with liberal hand. 
 Yet e'en by us how much has been won 
 For the cause of right. See what we have done ! 
 And say, in view of facts like these, 
 Do we only live to take our ease P " 
 
 — The City's Heabt. 
 
 GLASGOW: ANDREW DUTHIE, 5G GORDON STREET. 
 LONDON: SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO., STATIONERS' HALL COURT. 
 DUBLIN: W. H. SMITH & SON, MIDDLE ABBEY STREET. 
 
THE GETTY CENTER 
 LfWARY 
 
-a 
 
 VIEWS ' 
 
 PHOTOGRAPHED BY THOMAS ANNAN. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 T. View of City — (Frontispiece). 
 
 II. George Square, - - 17 
 
 III. Glasgow Bridge and Harbour, 25 
 
 IV. Cathedral and Royal Infirmary, - - 33 
 V. Cathedral and Necropolis, ----- 39 
 
 VI. Cathedral — (Interior), 45 
 
 VII. Old University, High Street, - - - 53 
 
 VIII. New University on Gilmorehill, - - - - 59 
 
 IX. Trongate and Cross, - - - - - - 65 
 
 X. West-End Park, - - 71 
 
 XI. Kelvin Grove, - 77 
 
 XII. Buchanan Street, - - 83 
 
 XIII. Royal Exchange, - - - - - 89 
 
-a 
 
 l \ 
 
 INTRODUCTION, 
 
 ill 
 
 HE present is "the age of great cities," — and the tenden- 
 cies of our time are in favour of their production and 
 increase. Of this fact, Glasgow is a striking illustration. 
 It is the second largest city in the British Home Empire. It is 
 situated on the banks of the Clyde, at the junction of the coun- 
 ties of Lanark and Renfrew, and is intersected by that river. It 
 covers an area of many miles, its leading streets running from 
 east to west, as the river flows, and crossed by other streets, 
 generally at right angles. It is thus very regular and symme- 
 trical in its plan and outline. It is especially distinguished by 
 its manufactures and trade and commerce ; and, although its 
 past is not devoid of interest, is more remarkable for what it is, 
 than for what it has been. 
 
 The name is of uncertain origin. Some derive it from the 
 Gaelic Eaglais-dhu, or Eaglais-gu, the black kirk, which means 
 the kirk of the Blackfriars. But this is improbable, inasmuch as, 
 notwithstanding the fact of the early ecclesiastical celebrity of the 
 place, churches connected witli monastic orders were not promi- 
 nent objects at the time when the name was first used. The 
 learned and antiquarian Bryant says that gow, or go, means a 
 temple or a house, or a glen, or a cave, and sometimes, among the 
 ancient Celts and Germans, was employed to denote a village or 
 a town. Glais-ghu, in Gaelic — Glasgow, in the ordinary sjoeech 
 of to-day, would thus be the black or dark ravine, and the allu- 
 sion is supposed to be made to the formerly wooded glen to the 
 east of the Cathedral, through which the Molendinar flows, in 
 which locality, beyond a doubt, the beginnings of the city first 
 were built. 
 
 <&- 4 
 
Glasgow was a place of small importance during the time of 
 the Eoman rule. The space which it occupies was included in the 
 province of Valencia. Even during the dominion of the Strath - 
 clyde Dynasty it does not prominently present itself. The 
 Clyde was, at that period, possessed by a race of ancient Britons, 
 who existed as an independent nation, and who after the abdi- 
 cation of the Roman's, for two or three centuries, resisted with 
 success the attacks of the Picts from the northern side of the 
 Forth, of the Scoto-Irish from Cantyre, and of the Saxons from 
 Northumberland. The capital or principal fort of these Britons 
 of Strathclyde was Dumbarton, i.e., Dun Briton. From among 
 them came St. Patrick, the Apostle of the Irish, born at Kilpat- 
 rick. St. Colli mba and St. Ninian, the Evangelists of the 
 northern and southern Picts, respectively, were both natives of 
 the same kingdom. 
 
 It was while the Strathclyde princes still maintained their 
 sway that Kentigern, a disciple of Servan, the venerable Culdee 
 of the Inch of Lochleven, came to Glasgow, and founded his 
 church there, such as it was. This occurred about the year 580, 
 A.D., and this is the date of the first recorded historical notice of 
 the city which was to come. Kentigern, from this time, made 
 Glasgow his home, and died there in 601. He was a godly man 
 of eminently estimable character, and of extensive fame and in- 
 fluence. The Parish Church of Pennycuik bore the name of St. 
 Kentigern, as late as 1733, and near it is a spring called St. 
 Mungo's Well, now enclosed in the minister's garden. So ami- 
 able was the saint that he ceased to be called Kentigern, and 
 came to be affectionately styled Mongdh, or Mungo, which, in 
 the Norwegian language, signifies dear friend. 
 
 The ecclesiastical establishment founded by St. Mungo was 
 amply endowed by one of the princes of Strathclyde with 
 lands, but these fell a prey alternately to the Scots, Picts, 
 Saxons, ami Danes, till better and more permanent arrangements 
 
were made by David I., in A.D. 1115. After David his brother, 
 Alexander, who succeeded to the crown of Scotland in 1124, 
 continued to bestow gifts on the see of Glasgow, and appointed 
 John Achaius, its bishop, to be chancellor of the kingdom. The 
 cathedral which, up to this time had been built of wood, princi- 
 pally, was much improved, and partly built in stone, by this 
 prelate, being consecrated, on the 9th of Feb., 1133, in the 
 presence of the king, who endowed it with the lands of Perdyc, 
 now called Partick. Bishop Joceline also did much for the 
 town. He procured a charter from William the Lion, erecting 
 it into a royal burgh, with permission to hold a fair for eight 
 days annually. Bishop Rae built the original stone bridge over 
 the Clyde, "the auld brig o' Glasgow," in 1345, near what is 
 now the foot of iStockwell Street. In 1450 Bishop William 
 Turnbull obtained from James II. a charter which bestowed upon 
 the town still further municipal privileges, and made a grant of 
 twenty acres of ground for the good of the community, such 
 ground being the beginning of Glasgow Green. This was not, 
 however, the "King's Park" part of it. That was bought many 
 years afterwards, and having been in the occupation of a person 
 whose name was King, continued to be called " King's Park." 
 Bishop Turnbull also obtained a bull, in 1453, from Pope 
 Nicholas the Fifth, for erecting a University in Glasgow, the 
 bishop himself amply endowing the same. Bishop Turnbull died 
 in 1456, " after having brougho home with him," from the king, 
 " the pardon " of the city — but for what offence such pardon was 
 requisite does not appear. Bishop James Beaton, nephew of the 
 Scottish primate, was the last who held the diocese, under the 
 authority of the Roman Catholic Church. He retired to France^ 
 yielding to the force of the Reformation, in 1560, taking with 
 him all the writs and archives of the see of Glasgow, as well as 
 everything of value that was portable belonging to the Cathedral, 
 depositing the same in the Scot's College, in the Carthusian 
 
 43 
 
Monastery, in Paris, " to be given back to Glasgow, so soon as 
 its inhabitants shall return to the mother church" — a period 
 which only some are sufficiently sanguine to hope for. 
 
 Previously to this time the city had suffered from the broils 
 and feuds that afflicted the nation, — but had urged its way 
 onward, and still continued to grow. In 1300 a spirited contest 
 between Sir William Wallace and Earl Percy occurred — the 
 latter being worsted and slain. 
 
 The changes involved in the Eeformation greatly excited the 
 city, and affected its commerce and trade, as well as the char- 
 acter and condition of the people— the change being ultimately 
 for the better, as change always is when it is the result of freedom 
 and enlightened personal independence. 
 
 In 1635 the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland 
 met in the choir of the Cathedral of Glasgow, — and, in its con- 
 sequences, this was the mo^t important assembly of the church 
 ever held — not excepting even the memorable meeting of 1843. 
 The rank and influence of the whole country were collected and 
 ranged on opposite sides ; the king's party was outvoted ; the 
 commissioner retired ; and the assembly, having held twenty-six 
 sittings, abolished Episcopacy in Scotland ; " and thus," says 
 Hume, " the whole fabric which James and Charles, during a 
 course of years, had been raising with so much care and policy, 
 fell at once to the ground.'' 
 
 The Union of England and Scotland in 1707 received little 
 countenance in Glasgow. The Duke of Hamilton, and several of 
 the barons of Lanarkshire strenuously opposed it, and the city, in 
 large measure, lent them its sympathy. Hence, in connection 
 with that event, certain historians speak with great contempt of 
 the " Glasgow rabblers.'' And yet from that Union Glasgow has 
 derived the greatest advantages. The city, it is true, had already 
 risen to importance, by means of its industry and enterprise ; but 
 its merchants were much fettered by the restriction, or rather the 
 
prohibition, which stood in the way of their trade with America 
 and the West Indies. At the Union all this was changed, and 
 the merchants of Glasgow then began to lay the foundation of 
 the wealth and prosperity which have subsequently distinguished 
 them. 
 
 In 1746 Prince Charles Stuart was in Glasgow, and was re- 
 ceived and treated by the population with but grim favour. He 
 mulcted the city in £14,000 — £10,000 of which was afterwards 
 paid back by the Government. 
 
 From this time up to 17*75 the commerce of the city^ became 
 greatly extended, in 1775 alone upwards of sixty thousand tons 
 of shipping having been employed, and no less than fifty-seven 
 thousand one hundred and forty tons of tobacco imported. 
 Tobacco was the great material of trade in Glasgow at this date. 
 The American War of independence having changed things, cotton 
 took the place of tobacco, — and now iron is running a spirited 
 and persistent race with cotton. 
 
 At the present time, Glasgow is most comprehensive in the 
 variety of its manufactures and commerce. It is, on this account, 
 less liable to severe depressions of trade than most great working 
 communities. Its cotton and silk manufactories, its iron works, 
 its engineering, its shipbuilding — both in wood and iron, its 
 chemical works, its potteries, together with its vast diversity of 
 other occupations, — all these render it more steady and reliable 
 in respect to its business condition, and its supply of work for 
 the people. When one branch of industry is in depression, it 
 may be different with another. And so it is that the progress of 
 of the city has been so rapid and so regular. 
 
 As in the experience of most great towns, wood having in 
 former times been more extensively used in building than it is 
 now, there have, on several occasions, been extensive devastations 
 by fire — the way having thus been prepared for that regularity 
 and symmetry of street and building which cannot fail to strike 
 
the obssrver as characteristic of the place. Floods have again 
 and again submerged the lower parts of the town to the depth of 
 several feet, requiring boats to be used in the streets for relief of 
 the sufferers. Riots among the people, in seasons of famine, or 
 in circumstances of political discontent, have repeatedly occurred. 
 And yet the city has been distinguished for its loyalty and 
 patriotism, giving proof of its feeling, in the time of need, both 
 by its money and its men. There is a large amount of ignorance 
 and its attendant povery and crime, — but there is also a pleasing 
 extent of intelligence, and integrity and charity, — and it would 
 only be to shut one's eyes to deny the fact that the dying words 
 and prayer of St. Mungo have been well verified, " Let Glasgow 
 flourish, by the preaching of the Word." There are many 
 churches, many means of helping the indigent and the sick, and 
 it has never been found that the people of Glasgow have been 
 the last or the feeblest in responding to the call of the needy, or 
 the claims of their country. 
 
 The town was first supplied with water by a public company 
 in 1806— and with gas in 1818. At the present date, 186S, the 
 police, and cleansing and lighting are equal to the best in the 
 kingdom, and, for several years, the water supply has amounted 
 to upwards of twenty million gallons daily, drawn from the dis- 
 tant Highlands — Loch Katrine — and remarkable for a purity 
 which, in such works, was previously unknown. Indeed the 
 Loch Katrine Water Scheme is one of which the citizens may 
 justly be proud, as of an enterprise creditable to a nation rather 
 than a city, and not unworthy of being compared with the great 
 works of the ancient Romans. 
 
 It is si^posed that the population in 1450, the date of the 
 founding of the University, was not more than 1500. This can- 
 not be proved, but is probably a correct estimate. In 1610, it 
 was 7,644; in 1708, the year after the Union, it was 12,766. 
 From this time the increase has been more rapid. In 1801, it 
 
was 77,385 ; in 1821, 147,043; and in 1861, at the taking of 
 the last census, it had risen to 446,639. At present, judging 
 by the rate of increase for many years, it must amount to more 
 than half a million, — of course without including those numerous 
 seats of population, all around the city, extending for many miles, 
 in which Glasgow people live, and from which they are day by 
 day drawn to Glasgow work and Glasgow business. 
 
 The bird's-eye view of the city given in the Frontispiece pre- 
 sents, so far as space will admit, a comprehensive and fair exhi- 
 bition of its outline and character, with its intersecting streets, 
 its many spires, its tall chimneys, its shipping, and even its busy 
 street traffic. In the foreground will be observed the Green, 
 and, on the river bank opposite, a glimpse of the crowd of fac- 
 tories, of various kinds, which, of late years, have sprung up in 
 that locality. Further down the river is visible part of a forest 
 of masts lying at the Broomielaw. A prominent object in the 
 background is the Cathedral, while, at the opposite end of the 
 picture, are the towers of the Free Church College and of Park 
 Church, in the neighbourhood of the West-End Park, which, with 
 Gilmorehill, will be found on the extreme left. The tall chim- 
 neys of the chemical works at St. Eollox, and in the neighbour- 
 hood of East Milton Street, and the huge granaries and distilleries 
 of Port-Dundas, on the high ground beyond, are distinctly marked 
 — while the hills of Campsie lie in the distance. But of necessity 
 a large space, really and closely covered by Glasgow, is omitted, 
 including almost the whole of the ground occupied on the south 
 side of the river, as well as Calton, Bridgeton, Stobcross, Sandy- 
 ford, and other parts. 
 
GEORGE SQUARE. 
 
 EORGE SQUARE is the largest square in the city. It 
 was formed in 1787. Till withiu the last few years, 
 the space in the centre was laid out principally in grass 
 and shrubbery, and entirely enclosed and reserved for the use of 
 persons possessing the surrounding property. Though still, in 
 great part, railed in, it is now crossed, both from south to north, 
 and from east to west, by broad walks, which are open to the 
 public, the plan of the whole area having been remodelled and 
 renewed. Last year, an equestrian statue of the Queen, by 
 Marochetti, in commemoration of her Majesty's visit to Glasgow 
 in 1849, was removed from St. Vincent Place, where it had 
 stood, — and, at the same time, a similar and companion statue 
 of the late Prince Consort, by the same artist, was inaugurated 
 by Prince Alfred, Duke of Edinburgh, the second son of the 
 Queen. These occupy the Square on its eastern and western 
 sides. In the centre of the broad walk, from south to north, is 
 a colossal statue of Sir Walter Scott. The figure of the great 
 minstrel and novelist, half enveloped in a shepherd's plaid, stands 
 on a Grecian Doric column of the height of eighty feet, —the 
 likeness and the expression, both of them, being deemed true and 
 striking portraits. In front of this, and looking southwards, is a 
 statue, in bronze, of Sir John Moore, the hero of Corunna, w 7 ho 
 was a native of Glasgow. In the south-west angle of the square 
 is Chantrey's bronze figure of James Watt, to whose ingenuity 
 and skill Glasgow, and the river Clyde, and steam, and conse- 
 quently the world, owe so much. A statue of Sir Robert Peel, 
 
as a free-trader justly honoured in the midst of such a com- 
 munity, occupies the north-west corner. This is by Mossman, a 
 native artist of growing celebrity. 
 
 The north side of the square is almost entirely occupied with 
 hotels. In the very distinct and otherwise excellent view pre- 
 sented by our artist, the beautiful spire of Free St. John's Church 
 is seen over the tops of the houses, generally on that side used as 
 offices and for purposes of business ; and, slightly to the left of 
 it, is visible the tower of St. Paul's Church, adjoining which is 
 the High School. The High School of Glasgow has had a suc- 
 cession of able preceptors, and has afforded, for many centuries, 
 the means of a liberal mercantile and classical education. Its exis- 
 tence is older than that of the University, being probably almost 
 coeval with that of the Cathedral, and many interesting associa- 
 tions cluster around it, and likeable memories identify themselves 
 with it. In the Glasgow Academy the High School has a friendly 
 coadjutor, and so large a demand is now made in the city for 
 a high-class education that there are also many less public 
 means of affording it, the space being so ample that there is 
 room for the co-operation of all without fear or envy the one of 
 the other. 
 
 Nearer to the Square, and in George Street, is the Ander- 
 sonian University. This important Institution owes its origin 
 to Professor John Anderson. Mr. Anderson was born in the 
 parish of Eoseneath in 172G. Having been several years Pro- 
 fessor of oriental languages in the University, he was appointed, 
 in 1 760, to the chair of Natural Philosophy. The leading feature 
 in Professor Anderson's character was a " liberal and diffusive 
 benevolence in regard to the instruction of his race." By his 
 will, dated 7th May, 1795, he bequeathed his valuable philoso- 
 phical apparatus, his museum, his library, and nearly the whole 
 of his property, towards the endowment of an institution, in 
 Glasgow, " for giving lectures in natural philosophy, and in 
 
every branch of knowledge." It was the design of the founder 
 that there should be four colleges in the Institution, one of arts, 
 one of medicine, one of law, and one of theology. But, for many 
 years, circumstances confined the course of instruction to natural 
 philosophy and chemistry. It now includes a complete system 
 of training in medicine, botany, mineralogy, and other branches — 
 additions being still made to the subjects by the munificent pro- 
 vision of individuals interested in human cultivation. Certificates 
 of attendance and study at the Andersonian qualify for examina- 
 tion for Medical Degrees. The Institution was incorporated by 
 the magistrates on the 9th of June, 1796. 
 
 At the north-west corner of the Square is the North British, 
 formerly the Edinburgh and Glasgow, Kail way Station, which 
 includes in it, and employs as offices, the walls of a large and 
 elegant church, which formerly occupied the ground. The station 
 is likely, in the conrse of a few years, to extend itself still further 
 so as to line the Square to a larger extent than at present it has 
 found to be possible. 
 
 At the south-west corner, and opposite to the Watt Monu- 
 ment, is a new and beautiful building for the accommodation of 
 the Glasgow business of the Bank of Scotland. This was the 
 first bank which attempted to do business in Glasgow. It was 
 the first in the country. The Bank of Scotland was established 
 in Edinburgh, by Act of Parliament, in 1695, with a nominal 
 stock of £100,000 ; but employment could scarcely be found in 
 the whole land for £30,000 — so small at that time was the 
 amount of available capital. On the 9th of April, 1696, a branch 
 of the bank was established in Glasgow, but was withdrawn in the 
 following January. Again, in July, 1731, a branch in Glasgow 
 was attempted, but this also was abandoned in about two years. 
 The Ship Bank was the first bank that belonged to Glasgow, and 
 was established in 1749; the Glasgow Arms' Bank was established 
 in 1753; the Thistle Bank, in 1761; a branch of the Koyal Bank, 
 
 --B 1 
 
in 1783 ; the Glasgow Banking Company, in 1809 ; the Union, in 
 1830 — and others, either as principal or branch establishments, 
 have, at later dates, entered upon the busy scene, — some, alas, to 
 retire again, and not always to retire alone, — and now, Glasgow 
 banking, in palatial accommodation, in manner and extent of 
 business, and in wise and skilful management, is in striking 
 contrast with what it was at the date of the Bank of Scotland's 
 first futile attempt in 1696. Dr. Strang relates of a manager of 
 the olden time that a customer from the country having applied 
 to him, in the month of December, to discount a bill which had 
 three months and seventeen days to run, he told him that it was 
 not usual to take bills of a longer date than three months ; upon 
 which the applicant, scratching his head and looking slyly, said, 
 " That may be your usual way, sir, but ye ken the days are unco 
 short at this time o' the year." The bill was discounted. There 
 are, at present, in Glasgow, four local banks, and five branches 
 of Edinburgh banks — most of which, besides their chief offices, 
 have district offices in various parts of the city, for the better 
 accommodation of the public, there being thus in the city about 
 five-and-twenty bank offices. 
 
 On the south side of George Square stands the Post-Office — 
 a building fit only for a third or fourth rate country town, but 
 better than its immediate predecessor in Glassford Street, which 
 stood roofless for years. The business is managed to admira- 
 tion, — but the officials are far from being well assisted in it by the 
 accommodation which the Government affords them. In Glas- 
 gow, the amount of money spent by the Government has always 
 been small ; and it is well that the whole city has learnt to re- 
 member that " the gods help those who help themselves." The 
 Post-Office was formerly in Prince's Street, not now a locality of 
 the sweetest odour. It was removed, successively, to St. Andrew's 
 Street, and Trongate, its locality in the latter instance beiug still 
 indicated by the name of the Old Post-Office Close. It was after- 
 
wards transferred to Nelson Street, and Glassford Street, and, 
 finally, in 1856, to George Square. The number of letters, at 
 present, delivered in Glasgow, in the course of a year, is about 
 thirteen millions. 
 
 It was also near to this locality that the first proper and char- 
 tered Theatre stood, — viz., on the west side of Queen Street. Thea- 
 tricals were formerly much discouraged in Glasgow. In 1752 a 
 temporary wooden theatre was erected in Castle Street against the 
 ruined walls of the Bishop's palace. The celebrated George Whit- 
 field, who was preaching shortly afterwards in that locality, hap- 
 pening to turn his eyes towards it, denounced it as the "temple of 
 Satan," and it was speedily in ruins. In about ten years after- 
 wards, an attempt was made to build another, but no site could 
 be had for it from any proprietor within the burgh. At length 
 ground was obtained in Alston Street, and the proposed building 
 was erected ; but, just before it was opened, it was wilfully set 
 fire to, though not destroyed — a certain preacher having told his 
 hearers, that, on a particular night, he had dreamed that he was 
 a spectator at a grand entertainment in the infernal regions, all 
 the devils being present, and that Satan himself had proposed 
 the health of Mr. Miller, who had sold his ground to build him a 
 house upon. The place was totally destroyed by fire, wilfully it 
 is believed, on the 5th of May, 1780. 
 
 A new theatre was built in Dunlop Street, where the present 
 theatre stands, but it was found inadequate, and, ground having 
 been obtained from the Corporation in Queen Street, a building 
 was erected at a cost of upwards of £18,000. A patent was 
 obtained from the crown. This was a large and effective struc- 
 ture, the street front being composed of an arcaded basement, 
 supporting six Ionic columns, 30 feet high, with corresponding 
 pilasters, entablatures, and appropriate devices. It died, what 
 seems to be the natural death of theatres, having been accidently 
 burned in 1829. 
 
 43 
 
 -3 s 
 
GLASGOW BRIDGE, AND THE HARBOUR, 
 
 HE view hero given is from the Sailors' Home. In photo- 
 graphy, it is sometimes difficult to obtain the favourable 
 conditions, in respect to certain localities. Factory 
 chimneys will smoke, and smoke is rather an opaque substance. 
 Still, Glasgow would not be Glasgow, it is to be feared, if its 
 great fires were extinguished. 
 
 A prominent object in the view before us is Glasgow Bridge, 
 a beautiful structure, faced with granite, and twelve feet wider 
 than London Bridge ; further onward is Victoria Bridge, of 
 similar material and dimensions ; while beyond it is Hutcheson's 
 Bridge ; there being Suspension Bridges at the Green and at 
 Portland Street respectively, for foot passengers, — while works 
 are in progress, for railway communication across the river, above 
 Victoria Bridge, in connection with a great scheme for centraliz- 
 ing the station accommodation of the city. All these Bridges 
 for general traffic are the successors of others which have cone 
 before, them. 
 
 With the Clyde and the Harbour before us, the great progress 
 of the city cannot possibly essape our observation. In Queen 
 Mary's time, there was a common extending from the old Bridge, 
 the foot of Stock well Street, as far down as Partick. At that time, 
 the site of the present harbour was a " broomy law." In Stuart's 
 A r iews of Glasgow, taken in 17(50, there is a picture of the har- 
 bour, which is seen to be near the mouth of St. Enoch's burn. 
 There are only two vessels " in the harbour" — a. gabbart and a 
 fishing-boat. The fishing-boat is moored at the quay, and the 
 
gabbart is apparently aground in the bed of the river. But even 
 this is modern, — and requires us to go back comparatively to a 
 time beyond it. Many canoes, some of them in good preservation, 
 have been discovered in the neighbourhood of the river, and even 
 at some little distance from the present channel. The workmen, 
 in digging the foundation of old St. Enoch's Church, in 1780, 
 came upon remains of this kind. No fewer than twelve were 
 found, at a lower point of the river, in 1846 — most of them 
 being large oak trees hollowed out. 
 
 Walter Gibson, provost of Glasgow in 1687-8, may well be 
 deemed the founder of Broomielaw harbour, and consequently, 
 as worthy of all honour as the father of the commerce of the 
 city. Mr. Pennant says, " The origin of foreign trade in this 
 great city is extremely worthy of attention. A merchant, of the 
 name of Walter Gibson, first laid, by an adventure, the founda- 
 tion of its wealth. About 1668, he cured and exported in a 
 Dutch vessel, 300 lasts of herrings, each containing six barrels, 
 which he sent to St. Martin's, in France, where he got a barrel 
 of brandy and a crown for each. The ship, returning with 
 brandy and salt, the cargo was sold for a good sum. He then 
 launched further into business, bought the vessel, and two large 
 ships besides, with which he traded to different parts of Europe 
 and Virginia." 
 
 A whale fishing company was established in 1674, which 
 employed five vessels. In 1692, there were altogether sixty- 
 seven vessels belonging to Glasgow, and employed in various 
 departments of trade. Those vessels could not, however, be 
 brought up to Glasgow itself, on account of the shallowness of 
 the river. There was no quay formed at Glasgow before the 
 year 1688. It was in 1662 that the city of Glasgow purchased 
 thirteen acres of land, on the site of where Port-Glasgow now 
 stands, and there a harbour Avas formed, and a dry dock built, 
 which was the first in Scotland. Notwithstanding the continued 
 
and energetic efforts of the city, aided by the burghs of Renfrew 
 and Dumbarton, towards the deepening of the river, such efforts 
 having even already been begun, it was at this harbour and at 
 Greenock, that Glasgow vessels, of necessity, continued for many 
 years, to discharge and receive their cargoes. 
 
 About the middle of the seventeenth century, the river was 
 rendered more navigable by the cutting away of some fords, 
 about twelve miles below the city, — but still the difficulties were 
 many and great, and, in shallow parts, the draught of water ex- 
 tremely scanty. In 1769, James Watt began business in 
 Glasgow as a Civil Engineer. He surveyed the river, and, along 
 with Dr. Wilson of the University, and Mr. Barrie, reported that 
 between the quay at Glasgow, and the entrance of the Kelvin 
 into the Clyde, two miles down, there were several places at 
 which there were not more than two feet of water. In 1775, 
 Mr. Golborn, of Chester, erected several jetties, which in many 
 ways were supposed likely to be useful, and, especially by altera- 
 tion of the currents of the stream, were expected to be helpful 
 by inducing the river to assist in deepening itself. Mr. Eennie, 
 Mr. Telford, and others, have also contributed to these improve- 
 ments. Banking, and dredging, and the diving-bell in connec- 
 tion with blasting, have all been had in requisition to make the 
 Clyde at Glasgow what it is. In great part, the Clyde has made 
 Glasgow, — but, it is not less true, that, in great part, also, Glasgow 
 has made the Clyde. 
 
 Especially since 1770, the deepening of the Clyde has been a 
 continuous and skilful and expensive work. At that date, the 
 navigable depth at Glasgow was only three feet,- — and men, still 
 living, tell of their having, without trouble or danger, in the days 
 of their boyhood, waded across the stream at low water, going 
 from green bank to green bank, as far up as opposite the foot of 
 York Street. In the year 1800, no vessel, under any circum- 
 stances, drawing more than 6 feet, could approach the city. 
 
But in 1831, a depth of 13 feet had been obtained ; in 1836, it 
 was 15 feet ; in 1839, it was 17; in 1853, it was 19, and at 
 present, it is 21. All this has been accomplished, of course partly 
 by operations in the harbour and near it, but mainly by deepen- 
 ing the bed of the stream, in part by dredging and blasting, and in 
 part by contraction of banks, and this for many miles downwards, 
 while a way has been opened for the flow of the tide from the 
 sea, which, at the beginning of the century was, at the Broomielaw, 
 scarcely perceptible. The cost has been enormous. But this 
 wise and far-seeing outlay has been but an augmentation of in- 
 come. At the beginning of these improvements in 1770, the 
 yearly revenue of the River Trust was only £147. This slowly 
 and steadily increased till, in 1827, it had reached £14,316; in 
 1837, it was £37,641; in 1847, £59.017; in 1857, it was 
 £82,797, and in the year ending July 1 867, it amounted to no 
 less than £131,862. 
 
 The increase of accommodation in the harbour has kept pace 
 with all this. At the beginning of the present century, the quay 
 extended only to the foot of York Street, and measured just 382 
 yards, and was altogether on the north side. In 1S2S, a tem- 
 porary wharf was erected on the south side, extending to West 
 Street, various additions having been made from time to time, 
 and the original temporary material having been superseded by 
 strong' masonry. In 1838 the quay accommodation was 1512 
 yards; in 1848, it was 2819; in 1858, 3624, and at present, 
 without including the new dock, it is 4595 yards, there being a 
 water span, in the harbour, of nearly 72 acres. Kingston Dock, 
 which has recently been opened, adds to the quay accommoda- 
 tion as much as 830 yards, making it in all 5425 yards, or up- 
 wards of three miles. Another Dock at Stobcross is contem- 
 plated. For the accommodation of goods, loading and unloading, 
 there is extensive provision in the way of sheds, — these, within 
 the last few years, having advanced much in character, especially 
 
as to width and loftiness. The sheds cover a space of nine acres 
 and a-half. At the quays are to be found vessels of all burdens, 
 in a large amount of the space to the number of three deep, and 
 so it is that while, even so late as at the beginning of the present 
 century, there were only a few vessels scarcely exceeding 30 or 
 40 tons burden, there are now many to be found of 1000 tons 
 and upwards. Of registered ships, belonging to the port of 
 Glasgow, before 1810, there were none; there are now nearly 
 800, with a tonnage of upwards of 250,000. In the Customs, 
 there was a sum of less than £500 collected in 1801 ; now the 
 annual amount is more than £100,000. Of goods exported from 
 Glasgow in the course of a year, as at present, the value is about 
 five million and a-half pounds sterling. 
 
 The busy traffic and the ship-building and engineering asso- 
 ciating themselves with the Clyde, as at Glasgow, extend far 
 clown the river, competition and commendable rivalry with other 
 ports, as well as skill and honourable execution, bringing here the 
 contracts of our own and other Governments, and the result being- 
 vessels of such size and strength and beauty, for war or com- 
 merce or pleasure, as may vie with the best of our time. 
 
 The Comet, of Mr. Henry Bell, which made its first trip in 
 January, 1812, being the parent of all steam navigation, and 
 Glasgow born, the crowd of beautiful passenger and other 
 steamers, always to be seen at the Broomielaw, especially in the 
 summer season, and to be equalled nowhere else in all the world, 
 would seem to be here at home, and to be an honour to their 
 birth-place. 
 
 It would be wrong to omit to mention that many means 
 are employed, by earnest-hearted men, for the good, in all senses, 
 of the multitude of seamen, home and foreign, who are constantly 
 to be found here, — so that while here, as everywhere, that class 
 is exposed to a variety of dangers, those who compose it, are not 
 left to the influence of evil only. 
 
THE CATHEDRAL, THREE VIEWS: 
 
 I. CATHEDRAL AND INFIRMARY ; II. CATHEDRAL AND NECROPOLIS; 
 III. CATHEDRAL, INTERIOR. 
 
 S occasions occur we shall refer to these views as first, 
 second, and third. The Cathedral is a most conspicuous 
 object, standing, as it does, at an elevation of 104 feet 
 above the bed of the Clyde. John Achaius, bishop of Glasgow, 
 the founder, had been the teacher of David I., and was a great 
 favourite with his royal pupil. Glasgow, at the time of his 
 appointment to the see, can have been nothing more than what 
 would now be deemed a village, and was probably formed of 
 rude huts of wattles or boards, covered with straw. There is no 
 reason to suppose that St. Mungo was a bishop. The liklihood 
 is that he was rather a devoted and earnest churchman, distin- 
 guished by personal holiness of life, and zealous in effort for the 
 good of his fellowmen. Five centuries from the death of St. 
 Mungo had elapsed before Glasgow was probably a bishopric, or 
 was supplied with a regular ecclesiastical establishment. The 
 date of the erection, or restoration, of the see by David may be 
 fixed at 1 i 1 5. From that date, Glasgow had attached to it all 
 the importance which, in such times, associated itself with the 
 episcopal dignity and residence. The diocese of Glasgow ex- 
 tended from the English border on the south to the northern 
 extremity of Lochlomond and the river Forth on the north. It 
 comprehended the whole of Dumfriesshire, the east of Galloway, 
 the greater part of Roxburghshire, Selkirk, Peebles, Lanark, Ayr, 
 Renfrew, and Dumbarton shires, and more than the half of Stir- 
 
lingshire. There were included in the diocese 240 parishes. 
 There were two archdeaconries — Glasgow and Teviotdale — with 
 dean, sub-dean, chancellor, treasurer, sacrist, chantor, succensor, 
 and prebendaries. So numerous a retinue of clergy as was now 
 gathered to Glasgow, more especially remembering that it was 
 the residence of the second church dignitary in Scotland, must 
 have largely contributed to the early importance of the place. 
 The revenues of the see of Glasgow were at one time very con- 
 siderable, as, besides the royalty and baronies of Glasgow, eighteen 
 baronies of land in various parts of the kingdom belonged to it, 
 as well as a large estate in Cumberland, denominated the spiritual 
 dukedom. Part of these revenues have fallen to the University, 
 and pai't to the Crown. 
 
 When Achaius came into his see. he found no proper Cathe- 
 dral, but a mean building, which occupied the site of the present 
 edifice, and which, like the tabernacle of the wilderness, was 
 constructed chiefly of timber. This church he improved, and, 
 building part of it in stone, laid the foundation of the Cathedral 
 as it now is, solemnly consecrating it, as we have elsewhere 
 remarked, in 1133. The work was carried on by his successors 
 in the bishopric. Bishop Joceline, in particular, built a large 
 addition to what had already been accomplished, and, on the 
 31st of May, 1197, dedicated the whole to St. Mungo. Bishop 
 de Boddington, Bishop Rae, Bishop Lauder, Bishop Cameron, and 
 others, continued to advance the work which had been so well 
 begun. The task was arduous, and aid was sought and obtained, 
 by means of collections from all the churches in Scotland, as 
 money was likewise procured, by the more questionable means of 
 a liberal sale of indulgences to all who contributed to the un- 
 dertaking. 
 
 The Architect was John Murdo, as appears from an inscrip- 
 tion upon Melrose Abbey, who seems to have been at the head 
 of his profession in Scotland, and who executed numerous other 
 
works, thus raising for himself a name which shall never perish. 
 In such achievements men's minds reach a given point, and do not 
 pass beyond it. It is only in some respects that humanity can 
 make progress. It doubles back upon itself, and reproduces, or 
 presents in new combinations, the taste and the grandeur of 
 former conceptions. In architecture it is emphatically so. This 
 great work of Murdo's stands unsurpassed in its refined beauty, 
 after the lapse of seven centuries, as much as when it first rose, 
 as his creation, under the pure sky, and beside the clear streams, 
 and the dark woods, of less busy and less pretentious times. 
 
 The original plan was that of a cross — as is usual in such 
 erections — though the transverse portion, on the south side, has 
 never been carried further than the first tier of arches. The 
 building is 319 feet lono;, 65 feet broad, and 90 feet within the 
 walls. Measuring round the walls and abutments, externally, 
 the circumference is 1090 feet. The supporting pillars number 
 147, and the windows, of various sizes, 157. Near the centre of 
 the building a square tower rises nearly 30 feet above the roof, 
 sustained by four massive pillars, each 29 feet 6 inches in cir- 
 cumference. On this tower, about the year 1420, there was 
 erected an octangular spire, with diminishing battlements. The 
 spaces between the battlements are enlivened and relieved by 
 windows and spirelets and mouldings, the whole terminating in 
 a ball and weathercock, at the height of 225 feet above the floor 
 of the choir. Another and similar tower, containing the bell and 
 clock, rises, on the west end of the building, to the level of the 
 first battlement. 
 
 This gorgeous edifice, though in the midst of a great city, 
 rises, in solemn and massive grandeur, with an aspect and asso- 
 ciations that seem to isolate it from the busy traffic of man, and 
 to connect it with the quiet of sequestered meditation, and the 
 reverent stillness of a realized and accomplished worship of the 
 divine. In our view, No. 1, is seen the surrounding churchyard, 
 
enclosed in pail by a high wall, and remarkable in its close 
 covering of the sacred dust below by crowded gravestones, laid 
 flatly on the ground, and bearing mementoes of many honoured 
 dead, with no room for even the grass to grow between. To the 
 right is the Necropolis, and between it and the Cathedral still 
 flows the Molendinar burn, in an almost rural quiet, at a point 
 farther up the stream, namely, at the Town Mill, still performing 
 the part of the olden times in which the ecclesiastics, who lived 
 on its banks, called it, on account of the use they made of it, in 
 their technical Latin, Rivulus Molindinarice, or the grist-mill 
 burn. On the left, in the view, and adjoining the Cathedral, is 
 visible the Infirmary or Public Hospital, a large and well-sus- 
 tained Institution, supported by voluntary contributions. The 
 accommodation is very extensive, and has grown year by year, 
 till it has been found necessary to provide additional room 
 on another site. There is also in course of realization, a praise- 
 worthy and beneficent scheme, by the inhabitants, for the provi- 
 sion of a Convalescent Home, in which the discharged and cured 
 patients of the Hospital may regain their strength. It was on 
 part of the ground occupied by the Infirmary that the Bishop's 
 palace or castle stood. Hence the name Castle Street. This of 
 course was near to the Cathedral, and was built by Bishop 
 Cameron, who carried out and improved the designs of those 
 who had gone before him, and who held the see from 1426 to 
 1446. It was a large erection, and was surrounded with a stone 
 Avail, and adorned with turrets, bastions, and battlements. It 
 underwent several sieges, about the time of the Reformation, 
 partly on account of the ecclesiastical, and partly on account of 
 the civil troubles of the time. After the Reformation, it still 
 remained in a habitable condition, but having been allowed to 
 fall into decay, part of the materials was removed and used in 
 the building of an inn in the Gallowgate, called the Saracen's 
 Head; in 1780 a portion was taken down to widen the street; 
 
and, in 1789, it was cleared entirely away to make room for the 
 Eoyal Infirmary. 
 
 Let us endeavour to realise the former times. M'Ure says — 
 " After Bishop Cameron had built his palace or castle, near the 
 High Church of Glasgow, he caused the thirty-two members, 
 pastors or rectors of the metropolitan church, each of them to 
 build a manor or manse near the same, and ordained them all to 
 reside here, and to cause curates to officiate in their stead, through 
 their respective parishes. This great prelate, now being seated 
 in his palace, and the thirty-two parsons having built their re- 
 spective manses or manors on the four streets adjacent to the 
 great church, he made a magnificent procession and entry to the 
 metropolitan church — twelve persons or factors carrying his large 
 crozier, and eleven large silver maces before him, accompanied 
 the thirty-two parsons, members of the chapter, belonging to the 
 great church, the bells of the two steeples ringing, the organs, 
 with the vocal and instrumental music sung by the masters of 
 sacred music in the cathedral, gorgeously arrayed with costly 
 vestments, and especially when the Te Deum and Mass were to be 
 sung; and celebrated. But further, the great resort of his vassals 
 and tenants, being noblemen and barons of the greatest figure in 
 the kingdom, waiting and attending upon this spiritual prince, 
 in procuring from him charters of confirmation and resignation, 
 tacks of lands and tithes, together with the ecclesiastical powers 
 that depended upon him, made his court to be very splendid, 
 next to majesty itself." The four streets here referred to were 
 Bottenrow, Drygate, High Street, and Castle Street, — Glasgow 
 Cross being at that time at the point where the} 7 ' join, — and 
 in these streets, by the means here spoken of, and on other 
 accounts, were, for many years, to be found the wealth and 
 fashion of the city. Bemains of the former grandeur are still 
 to be met with, notwithstanding the neighbourhood of squalor 
 and poverty. 
 
In the second of these views, the Cathedral is shown as from 
 the west. In the foreground, and in the enclosure which sur- 
 rounds the Infirmary, will be observed a statue in honour of the 
 late James Lumsden, Esq., for many years a devoted friend of 
 that institution. To the right, just a corner of the Barony 
 Church is seen, an edifice of which an eminent living statesman 
 said a few years ago, on the occasion of his visiting the Cathe- 
 dral, — " Well, I have come out of one of the finest churches in 
 the world, and now I stand before the ugliest it has ever been 
 my lot to see.'' The place is not worthy of the Barony, nor of 
 the honoured name which, week by week, at the present time, 
 draws to it and delights in it so large a crowd of worshippers. 
 Beyond the Cathedral stands the Necropolis, and a noble back- 
 ground it is to the sacred structure. This city of the dead was 
 anciently "the Fir Park," and is believed to have been a druidical 
 grove. In 1831, on the suggestion of the late Dr. Strang, the 
 Merchants' House, whose property it is, laid it out as a garden 
 cemetery, — and, taking into account the character of the site so 
 boldly picturesque, and the amount of pains and cost which have 
 been spent upon it, it is not surpassed, if it be equalled, by the 
 celebrated pere la chaise of Paris. From its deeply pathetic 
 Jews' corner to its loftiest summit, it is replete with interest ; 
 and it is constantly being extended ; for, after all, this is the 
 goal — Glasgow comes here, and to places of repose such as this. 
 Among the monuments, many of which are of chaste and beau- 
 tiful design, is conspicuous the fine column erected to the 
 memory of John Knox, near to which is the monument in honour 
 of William M'Gavin, — "the Protestant;" and here also are 
 named, with sorrowing regard, the Rev. Dr. Dick, the Rev. Dr. 
 Heugh, the Rev. Dr. Wardlaw, Major Monteith, Charles Tennant 
 of St. Rollox, Colin Dunlop of Tollcross, and others. The fine 
 family mausoleum of Mr. Houldsworth is well worthy of obser- 
 vation. 
 
The Reformation brought with it many changes. So early as 
 15U0, the doctrines of the Reformation began to spread in Scot- 
 land, particularly in Ayrshire, and we find about thirty indivi- 
 duals cited, at the same time, to appear before Archbishop 
 Blackadder of Glasgow to answer to the charge of their being 
 Lollards. On this occasion they were dismissed with an admoni- 
 tion. But in 1538, it was resolved to make some examples at 
 Glasgow, and the victims fixed upon were Jerome Russel, one of 
 the Grey Friars in Glasgow, a man of learning, and John 
 Kennedy, a young gentleman of Ayr, not more than eighteen 
 years of age. They were both condemned to the flames, though 
 this was much against the will of the archbishop, Gavin Dunbar, 
 and both endured the sentence with magnanimity. They were 
 the only individuals who suffered in the diocese of Glasgow for 
 the reformed religion. 
 
 After the Reformation, in 1560, the Presbyterian form of church 
 government was established in Scotland. But the basis on which 
 the establishment rested was far from being secure. From 1572 
 to 1592 a kind of episcopacy obtained. From 1592 to 1610 it 
 was properly presbyterian. From 1610 to 1638, it was again 
 episcopalian. In 163S it again resumed the presbyterian form, 
 which it retained till, in 1662, Charles tyrannically forced episco- 
 pacy upon the nation. But, at the Revolution in 1688, the 
 Church of Scoland became presbyterian once more, and has 
 ever since that date remained so. Such changes necessarily 
 unsettled the religious sentiment and forms of worship obtaining 
 among the people, — and, moreover, exposed to destruction many 
 of the finest church edifices in the country. The Cathedral of 
 Glasgow escaped till 1579, when it was threatened with violence, 
 standing as it did, as the only building of the kind which the 
 mob had spared. The craftsmen of the city assembled within 
 the walls, and resolved to resist, to the death, all attempt to 
 damage it. By this means it w T as saved. Sir Walter Scott 
 
describes the scene. It is Andrew Fairservice whom he makes 
 say, "Ah, its a brave kirk! Nane o' your whigmaleeries, and 
 curliewurlies, and open-steek hems about it — a' solid, weel -jointed 
 mason wark, that will stand as lang as the warld, keep hands and 
 gunpowther aff it. It had amaist a doun-come langsyne at the 
 Eeformation, when they pu'd down the kirks o' St. Andrews and 
 Perth, and thereawa', to cleanse them o' popery, and idolatry, and 
 image worship, and surplices, and sic like rags o' the muckle hure 
 that sitteth on the seven hills. Sae the commons o' Eenfrew, and 
 o' the Barony, and o' the Gorbals, and a' about, they behoved to 
 come into Glasgow ae fair morning, to try their hand on purging 
 the High Kirk o' popish nick nackets. But the townsmen o' 
 Glasgow, they were feared their auld edifice might slip the 
 girths in gaun through siccan rough physic, sae they rang the 
 common bell, and assembled the train band by took o' drum. 
 By good luck, the worthy James Babat was dean o' guild that 
 year — and a guid mason he was himsel', made him the keener to 
 keep up the auld bigging. And the trades assembled, and 
 offered downright battle to the commons rather than their kirk 
 should coup the crans, as they had done elsewhere. It wasna for 
 love of Paperie — na, na! — nane could ever say that o' the trades 
 o' Glasgow. Sae they soon cam to an agreement to tak a' the 
 idolatrous statues o' sants (sorrow be on them!) out o' their neuks. 
 And sae the bits o' stane idols were broken in pieces by scripture 
 warrant, and flung into the Molendinar burn, and the auld kirk 
 stood as crouse as a cat when the flaes are caimed aff her, and 
 a'body was alike pleased." 
 
 During the attempt of Charles II. to force episcopacy upon 
 Scotland, the lives and properties of those who opposed him were 
 everywhere sacrificed. In Glasgow numbers were hanged in the 
 street. At one time the community of the city was fined £100 
 sterling for allowing a presbyterian minister to preach within 
 the limits. 
 
CATHEDRAL, INTERIOR, 
 
In the third of the views, here presented by our artist, is seen 
 the choir, as from the Lady Chapel, the gorgeous pillaring and 
 arching being effectively exhibited. The arrangements as to 
 pulpit and pews, it is proper to remark, are such as accord with 
 the requirements of the presbyterian mode of worship. Where 
 the "screen" occurs, sitting accommodation is provided for the 
 magistrates and council of the city. Not the least interesting 
 part of this great structure is the crypt, where were deposited 
 the remains of St. Mungo, and where, among many of the great 
 and revered of former times, there also reposes the dust of Edward 
 Irving, wild in his intellectual and moral grandeur, and who was 
 followed to this his grave by many mourners, among whom, be- 
 cause of the alleged heresy" of the dead, there was present just 
 one of the many ministers of Glasgow, but he a man of might 
 and tenderness whose prophet-like aspect and tones, still stir the 
 hearts of surviving citizens. 
 
 Time much affected all things. Three congregations, by 
 and by, assembled in the Cathedral — one in the choir, one in 
 the nave, and one in the crypt. The last mentioned, being the 
 Barony congregation, was removed to where it now is at the be- 
 oinninsf of the ceuturv, and the outer High Church conoreoation, 
 St. Paul's, was afterwards transferred to John Street. The build- 
 ing having been much disfigured and injured by means of parti- 
 tioning and pewing and galleries, was also, in many other respects, 
 greatly out of repair, — and, Government being the custodiers of 
 the property, Edward Blore, Esq., an eminent architect and an- 
 tiquary, was appointed several years ago to restore the edifice. 
 Under his able direction, many repairs and changes have been 
 accomplished. The galleries have been entire]}' removed, the 
 whole space has been opened up from end to end, and the choir 
 has been re-pewed, or rather occupied with benches, in a manner 
 which accords with the character of the building. During the 
 progress of these operations, several fragments of mouldings were 
 
found, which had been 1133d in the filling up of some of the 
 walls, and which indicated an old date and the former existence 
 of parts in the edifice, very rich and very ancient, but which 
 time had destroyed. The whole structure is now in the most 
 perfect order, and has lately, through the beneficence of many 
 honoured contributors, had all its principal windows filled with 
 the finest stained glass, from the Royal Manufactory of Munich, — 
 those in the nave being illustrative of the history of the Jews, 
 and those in the choir of the parables of the Gospels, — 50 that, at 
 the present moment, this is one of the finest and most interesting 
 ecclesiastical piles in Great Britain. 
 
 Besides the Cathedral, there was a collegiate church in Glas- 
 gow, governed by a provbsfe and eight prebends founded by th 5 
 citizens about the year 14S7, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. 
 This is now the Tron or Laigh Church, so called because there 
 stood near it "the tron," a clumsy implement of the public service, 
 once of much importance, but not now existing. There was a 
 church on the Dowhill, dedicated to St. Mun^o, a second in 
 Gorbals, dedicated, to St. Ninian, a third to St. Enoch, beyond 
 what was called the West Port, a fourth to St. Rolloch, near the 
 bishop's palace, and a fifth in the Rottenrow to St. John the 
 Baptist. Two monasteries were established in the city at an 
 rally date — one of Black Friars and the other of Grey. The 
 Blackfriars, or Dominicans, are also called F rat res Pi-(edicato>-es, 
 because of their frequent preaching. Their monastery, which 
 w;i; a fine Gothic building, was near where the College Church 
 now stands. The convent of the Greyfriars, or Franciscans, was 
 situated in the narrow street, called from them, Greyfriars' AVynd. 
 
 At the present time there are in Glasgow about two hundred 
 places of worship, of a wide variety of Christian denomination, 
 illustrating the religious liberty, the Christian earnestness, and 
 the power of truth in the day we live in. Not a few of these 
 churches arc a credit and an ornament to the city. In the 
 
Established Church, besides the Cathedral, might be mentioned 
 St, Andrew's, a fine erection, almost a copy of St. Martin's 
 Church in London, St. George's, Park Church, St. Enoch's, the 
 Tron, and others; in the United Presbyterian Church, St. Vin- 
 cent Street, Eenfield, John Street, Lansdowne, Wellington Street, 
 Greyfriars', Claremont, and others ; among the Congregational 
 Churches, Bath Street, Elgin Place, and Trinity. The Roman 
 Catholic Church has a fine erection in Clyde Street, not its only 
 place by any means, and the building of which furnished the 
 occasion of M'Gavin's writing of " The Protestant." The Epis- 
 copalian Church is in possession of several costly places of wor- 
 ship, St. Mary's in Eenfield Street, being the most conspicuous. 
 The oldest Episcopalian Church is at the Green, and at the time 
 of its being built St. Andrew's Church was also in course of erec- 
 tion. There are many places of worship besides these, belonging 
 to different sections of the church, and which, if they make no 
 architectural pretence, yet plainly declare by their cost and com- 
 fort and character, that those who use them desire to honour 
 the name of Him to whose service they have been dedicated. 
 
 By means of the City Mission and other agencies, much truth 
 is spoken and good influence employed beyond the walls of these 
 edifices. 
 
 And, speaking thus of Glasgow ecclesiastic]' sm and Glasgow 
 religion, what we say "would be incomplete if we did not also 
 remark that, standing near St. George's Church, is a plain build- 
 ing called " The Religious Institution Rooms," within which the 
 heart of the Glasgow Churches, of all denominations, often beats, 
 and where good men often meet and work, for the honour of their 
 common Master, and the temporal and spiritual well-being of 
 their fellow-men. 
 
OLD UNIVERSITY, HIGH STREET. 
 
THE UNIVERSITY. TWO VIEWS; 
 
 I. THE OLD BUILDINGS IN HI&H .STREET;; ;THE .NEW BUILDINGS 
 ON GILMOREHILL. 
 
 NE'S "school days" are for eve/embalmed inthe memory. 
 It is only to intensify the interest to recal the time of 
 being " at college." Outside and inside, every stone and 
 every seat — all come up in association with faces that seem still 
 to live and look — and the very echoes never die away. How 
 many generations have lived in such experiences in ^connection 
 with the venerable pile so beautifully presented in the former of 
 these two views ! 
 
 The College, or University, of Glasgow, owes its origin to 
 William Turnbull, the Bishop of the diocese,"and it was founded 
 under the name of Stadium Generate, by a bull issued by Pope 
 Nicholas V., which is dated the 7th of January, 1450-51. It is 
 the oldest but one of the Universities of Scotland, St. Andrew's 
 having existed forty years before it. The bull of^the Pope be- 
 stowed upon it the rights and privileges of th.3 University of 
 Bologna — the chancellorship being vested in the successive 
 bishops of Glasgow. There were, originally, Professors and 
 Masters in Theology, Canon Law, and the Arts. The University 
 had the power of conferring degrees upon those who successfully 
 pursued their studies in accordance with the statutes. Bishop 
 Turnbull, in right of his office, was appointed the first chancellor 
 and rector. He bestowed many and liberal gifts, but at first 
 there were no endowments, and the success of the University 
 was entirely dependent, in respect to maintenance, on the fees of 
 the students, and the contributions of persons interested in the 
 promotion of learning. Still, the success was considerable. The 
 
building in which the work of the institution was carried on had 
 probably been previously used as a Chapter School connected 
 with the Cathedral, and was' situated in Rottenrow. It was leased 
 by the bishop upon the payment of a rent, and was now called 
 Psedagogium. Accommodation was provided, for the residence 
 of the students, in an adjoining building, the idea of monastieism 
 always, at that date, being more or less brought into association 
 with learning. 
 
 How long the Psedagogium, in Rottenrow, continued to be 
 thus used, does not plainly appear; but, at a date so early as 
 1460, means were employed for erecting, or adapting, buildings 
 for the University, in High Street, in the same locality which ir 
 has ever since occupied. James, the first Lord Hamilton, had 
 gifted this site to the Faculty of Arts, and it consisted of a 
 tenement of houses, immediately to the north of the Chapter 
 House of the Blackfriars, and the probability is that those houses 
 stood not far from the present residence of the Principal. There 
 were also given by his lordship four acres of land, extending to- 
 wards Dow or Dove hill. Lord Hamilton bestowed his benefac- 
 tion out of love to learning, but coupled with it the condition 
 that the regent and students of the University should pray twice 
 a day for the souls of him, his ancestors, and successors, — which 
 condition, being spiritual, we must leave, with due regard to re- 
 ligious liberty, to the consciences of those concerned. If the two 
 parts of Lord Hamilton's gift were contiguous, the houses, in all 
 likelihood, extended, without much breadth, from High Street to 
 Molendinar burn, to which also the lands were adjacent. To the 
 north of the property,* thus acquired, was land possessed by Sir 
 Thomas Arthurlie, which he, a few years afterwards, viz., 1475. 
 also gave to the University, carrying the college boundary as 
 far to the north as Vicar's Alley, now called the Vennel. 
 
 In about 14G5 } or fifteen years after the original foundation, 
 the work and residence of the members of the University were 
 
removed, in whole or in part, to the new buildings, and to those 
 buildings was also transferred the name of Psedagogium, or 
 College. 
 
 James II. granted to the University many privileges and 
 immunities. And Queen Mary gave a large portion of ground, 
 amounting to thirteen acres, probably nearly completing the pos- 
 sessions which, in connection with its present site, the college 
 has held till now. 
 
 Although the Institution still retained its original name and 
 character of a University, it was not so much a School of either 
 Divinity or Law as of general Learning. The Faculty of Arts 
 was most vigorous in its existence and working, and held in its 
 possession a larger part of the funds than might have seemed to 
 be its share. Of course, the whole system of education based 
 itself on the general culture imparted by the Faculty of Arts, and 
 the others but followed on behalf of those students who usually 
 came to them. But the business of the University, as a whole, 
 was carried on with gratifying, though varied success, till the 
 date of the Reformation. From the time of the acquiring of the 
 property in High Street, we find frequent mention made, in the 
 records, of the application of money, by the Faculty of Arts, to 
 the erection and repair of buildings ; but the funds must have 
 been small, for in 1563 those buildings were still incomplete, and 
 the older parts of them are said to have been in a condition that 
 was ruinous. At about this date had occurred the Reformation, 
 and, like all other institutions of Roman Catholic origin, the 
 University was thrown into confusion by the troubles of the 
 times, and the loss of the support which it had hitherto derived 
 from the church. 
 
 After the Reformation, which was a season of lisrht, the Uni- 
 versity soon recovered from its depression, and academic teaching 
 made great advances. But the buildings do not appear to have 
 bee a much improved, either in condition or extent, till about 
 
1630, when a subscription was originated, with the design of 
 promoting their restoration and completion. This subscription 
 was headed by king Charles I., and the king's promise was paid 
 by Oliver Cromwell. Liberal contributions were given by the 
 Marquis of Hamilton, the Earl of Montrose, the Corporation of 
 Glasgow, the burghs of Stirling, Ayr, and Irvine, many burgesses 
 and "notars" of Glasgow, and a large number of noblemen and 
 gentlemen of the period, by the principal and professors, and 
 very many clergymen and others, in the west of Scotland and at 
 a distance. 
 
 The present buildings, situated in High Street, have been 
 erected at different and distant periods — only a small portion of 
 them dating earlier than 1632, — the time of the restoration of 
 the original buildings connected with the University. So far as 
 can be ascertained, the only parts of these original buildings, 
 still remaining, are those now forming the Natural Philosophy 
 apparatus room, and a portion of the houses occujned by the 
 Principal and the Professor of Law. As at present existing, the 
 University buildings display but little architectural pretence ; 
 nevertheless, they interest the observer by their venerable and 
 classic appearance, and by their association with the great object to 
 which they are devoted. The front, towards High Street, is 300 
 feet in length, and has an elevation of three storeys. At the northern 
 extremity is a gateway leading to an area or court-yard of con- 
 siderable extent, in which are the houses of the different profes- 
 sors. A corresponding gateway, at the southern extremity, leads 
 to the residence of the principal. The main entrance is in the 
 centre, and is surmounted by the royal arms. This opens into a 
 laro-e court, on the one side of which is a stone staircase leading 
 to the Faculty Hall, a large and splendid room, in which the 
 professors meet to transact the business of the University. Pass- 
 ing onwards, through another gateway, we reach a second court, 
 surrounded by different lecture rooms ; and, on the farther side 
 
of this area, on the second storey, is the Common Hall, in which, 
 on public occasions, meetings of the students, and other assem- 
 blies, are held. Another gateway passes under the Common 
 Hall, and leads to a third area, in the front of which stands the 
 Hunterian Museum, an elegant edifice, erected in 1805, under 
 the direction of Mr. Starke, for the reception of the valuable 
 collection of the anatomical preparations, shells, insects, and 
 fossils, with a cabinet of coins and medals, bequeathed to the 
 University by the celebrated Dr. William Hunter, who was for- 
 merly a student here. Dr. Hunter left the sum of £8000 for a 
 building, and the collection itself has been valued at £130,000. 
 The college library forms another side of this area. The collec- 
 tion of books is large and valuable, and includes the medical 
 books given by Dr. Hunter, as well as the library of Dr. Eobert 
 Simpson, formerly one of the professors, the translator of 
 Euclid's Geometry, and the author of several important works 
 on Mathematics. 
 
 The age of many of these buildings, and the character which, 
 in the course of centuries has come to belong to the immediate 
 neighbourhood, as well as the need of larger accommodation by 
 increase of the number of students, and also the institution of 
 additional professorships, have of late years induced the authori- 
 ties of the University to consider the propriety of re-constructing 
 the wdiole in a new and better locality. In 1846 a sale of the 
 property at present occupied was effected, but the purchasing 
 party failed to require it, and paying a bonus, retired. In 1864, 
 the city of Glasgow Union Railway Company purchased the 
 whole ; a sum was given by Government towards the erection 
 of new buildings, on condition that an Hospital were built ; and 
 liberal subscriptions have been made towards the same object by 
 many individuals of all ranks. The ground purchased by the 
 University includes the lands of Gilmorehill, Donald's hill, and 
 Clayslaps. It lies on the side of the Kelvin opposite to the 
 
West End Park, and is of most commanding elevation. The 
 new buildings are in course of erection, and stand on the summit 
 of Gilmorehill. What those buildings are designed to be is 
 shown in the second of our views. In such a situation, such 
 buildings, with such grounds, especially when a connection is 
 formed between these grounds and the Park, must be felt to be 
 altogether a credit to the University itself, and a great ornament 
 to the city. The architect is G. Gilbert Scott, Esq. 
 
 The new buildings, apart from the Professors' houses, will 
 occupy a space of nearly four acres. When complete, they will 
 form a pile of about six hundred feet long by three hundred feet 
 broad, and divided in the middle by the building which separates 
 the two quadrangles, each of which is about 180 feet square. 
 The western side will, at present, remain open, so that when ex- 
 tension hereafter becomes necessary, additional building may be 
 added in harmony with the original design. The architectural 
 style is that of the early part of the fourteenth century. There 
 are provided all the apartments required for University purposes. 
 The main, or south, front consists of a centre and two wings, 
 terminating in flanks which somewhat project, and which are also 
 raised a storey higher. Here are contained the Divinity, Law 
 and most of the Arts class rooms, the Examination Hall, and the 
 various offices requisite for conducting the business of the Uni- 
 versity. The great tower, 300 feet high, rises from the centre of 
 this front. On this side there are three entrances — one under the 
 tower, leading into the middle parts of the building, and the 
 other two affording carriage access to the quadrangles. The 
 eastern side contains the Medical class rooms and laboratories. 
 The northern side is appropriated to the Library, Heading Eoom, 
 and Museums — the centre part, below, containing the students' 
 Reading Room and the Working Library, while, above, will be 
 placed the Library of the Hunterian Museum, and the more 
 valuable books and manuscripts, — the main Library of the Uni- 
 
versity occupying the whole of this side in the western quad- 
 rangle, and the Museum, in like manner, the wliole of this side, 
 in the eastern quadrangle. To the west all is open, unless it be 
 that there, there is a cloister or covered walk. The Common 
 Hall occupies the centre of the whole, crossing between the two 
 quadrangles, and separating them ; but it is solid masonry on the 
 second storey only, the space below being arcaded and open, 
 establishing a free communication between the quadrangles, and 
 serving with the arrangement at the western end, the purpose 
 of sheltered cloisters. The Grand Stair is in this central part 
 of the buildings, and leads to the Common Hall, and the 
 Museum, and the Library; and those apartments, by this means 
 accessible the one from the other, are also so arranged that, on 
 great public occasions, they can be thrown into one magnificent 
 suite capable of receiving several thousand persons. Class rooms 
 have been provided for each Professorship, with retiring rooms, 
 laboratories and museums, for those who require them ; and, in 
 the Library and Museum, there is not only ample room, but pro- 
 vision is made for a large extent of future additions to the stores 
 which they already possess. 
 
 Many who are interested in the University, as in their own 
 Alma Muter will rejoice in these changes, well knowing that 
 the old lady will never forget herself, although she remove to a 
 new house that so well will suit her. 
 
 The history of the past is full of honourable w r ork and suc- 
 cess, and not undistinguished by great names both in the chairs 
 and on the benches. Among these may be mentioned Melville, 
 Baillie, Lcishmau, Burnet, Simpson, Hunter, Hutchison, Black, 
 Cullen, Adam Smith, lleid, Millar, Moore, Jardine, Young, and 
 Sandford. 
 
 The number of matriculated students attending during the 
 session is upwards of twelve hundred. 
 
 The government of the University is in the hands of a 
 
Chancellor, Rector, Principal, four Assessors, the Dean of Facul- 
 ties, the twenty-five Professors, and the enrolled Students who have 
 passed through the curriculum of the Arts, — these persons and 
 officials forming the Senatus Academicus, the University Court, 
 and the University Council. The administration of affairs was 
 very considerably modified in its form by the Universities' Act 
 of 1858. Previously, a charter of James VI., usually known as 
 the " Nova Erectio" along with the remains of the original con- 
 stitution, had supplied the foundation of the Statutes of govern- 
 ment and discipline. 
 
 The Scottish Universities are, all of them, of the most liberal 
 constitution. No ecclesiastical distinction is allowed to interfere 
 with a student as to work or reward ; and, therefore, side by 
 side, may be seen in any class room, the members of all Christian 
 denominations, or those who are less fortunate as beings the 
 members of none. And it is only in respect to such chairs as 
 are more directly connected with the Established Church that 
 there is any restriction in regard to Professorships. 
 
 In Glasgow this liberality of sentiment and conduct has, at 
 several periods of the history of the University, been largely 
 helpful to its prosperity. During the Protectorate many non- 
 conforming students from England attended here. It was here 
 also that James Watt, by the liberality of the Senatus, found 
 an asylum and a home for his great experiments, when cir- 
 cumstances oucside the College walls seemed to say that even 
 Glasgow had not room for him. The way has been varied, but 
 it has been a path of progress. Many additions have been 
 made to the subjects of instruction and study, and the number 
 of professorships has been greatly increased, — so that what was 
 said so long ago by the nephew of Andrew Melville was never 
 more true than now, — " There was na j)lace in Europe comparable 
 to Glasgow for guid letters, during these yiers, for a plentifull and 
 guid chepe mercat of all kinds of languages, artes, and sciences." 
 
TRONGATE AND CROSS, 
 
 HE " classic " parts of a city are always the old parts. In 
 Glasgow there is no part that could less be spared than 
 the Trongate and the Cross. Even as it is, there is no 
 street in modern Europe more picturesque than the Trongate. 
 The length of this street, which really is one, under the names of 
 Argyle Street, Trongate, and Gallowgate, is between two and 
 three miles. But the, portion of it which is historical is Tron- 
 gate, proper, chiefly. The time was when, instead of its present 
 embellishments in shops, distinguished by glass and gold, it was 
 a street remarkable for many other reasons. Here, indeed, it 
 was that the principal shops in Glasgow might be found. But 
 most of them were booths, rather than shops. Many were situated 
 within piazzas, or " pillars," resembling, rather distantly, those 
 that are still to be seen near the cross, and, at almost any hour 
 of the day, the " merchant " or shopkeeper, might have been 
 seen looking over his half-door, in blue coat, with yellow buttons 
 and knee breeches, with " rig and fur" hose, either to encourage 
 customers or seeking to relieve his ennui. 
 
 At " the cross " stood the tolbooth and town -house, and 
 council-chamber. Here, from the projecting windows, which 
 reached over into the street, many are the poor wretches, whom 
 fashionable people have beheld launched into eternity. These 
 streets were scarcely streets a hundred years ago — they were 
 more like the beds of rivers, and the accumulation of dust in 
 summer and mud in winter was something wonderful. There 
 were no pavements or " plainstanes " till a comparatively modern 
 date, — and these for many years extended only from the cross to- 
 
Candleriggs, and, for many years more, only further from the 
 corner of Candleriggs to Bell Street. Ordinary people were ex- 
 pected to keep " the crown of the causeway." The dons, and 
 especially the " tobacco lords " — for Glasgow owes much to its 
 smoke in various ways — the tobacco lords might be seen, at the 
 fashionable hour of the day, parading the pavements in all their 
 proud self-sufficiency, in scarlet cloaks, and gold-headed canes, 
 and cocked hats, unapproachable, unless token and welcome were 
 given, by such every day mortals as might be near them. 
 
 The interest and real beauty of the Trongate, as a street, 
 must be sought for in its irregularity and historical associations. 
 From far west in Argyle Street its few still remaining Flemish 
 or Scottish gables, with their " crow " steps, and its constantly 
 changing London-like crowds make it the most exciting and in- 
 structive street in the city. 
 
 The cross forms a centre where Trongate, Gallowgate, High 
 Street, Saltmarket and London Street join. There is here an 
 equestrian statue of William the Third, presented by Governor 
 Macrae. The Tontine, a joint-stock property, as the name im- 
 plies, with a piazza in front, occupies the site of former public 
 buildings, removed to the foot of Saltmarket and Wilson Street- 
 Here, there is a News Eoom, known formerly, as all such places 
 were known, as the Coffee Room. And here, till the erection of 
 the Exchange in Queen Street, was the great focus of business 
 and of politics. The Town Hall, so called, is still here, and con- 
 tains several interesting portraits. The cross steeple, formerly 
 connected with the gaol and town house is preserved, and stands 
 a relic of former civic splendour, known by all, for many genera- 
 tions, for its chimes or music bells. 
 
 The High Street is the back-bone of the ancient city of St. 
 Mungo. But the old look is fast disappearing even here, — and 
 if ventilation and health, material and moral, be the result, no 
 matter either, — though one is sorry to lose the ancient landmarks. 
 
The Saltmarket is not, as it was, the domicile of provosts, 
 bailies, and other civic dignitaries. The foot of it, in particular, 
 as well as the neighbouring parts, we find now to be devoted to 
 the "hand-me-down" trade. It is the Eag Fair of Glasgow. 
 But eighty years ago it was otherwise. St. Andrew's Square 
 was one of the most fashionable parts of the city. And in a 
 house, near the foot of Saltmarket, " Silvercraig's land," Oliver 
 Cromwell lodged while in Glasgow, as Darnley, the husband of 
 Mary, also had lodged in Rottenrow, off High Street. 
 
 The Stockwell, opposite Glassford Street, in Trongate, is one 
 of the finest old city streets now remaining. Here, if anywhere, 
 the old style of housing may yet be seen. The West Port, or 
 gate, was about here, and all to the west was country. Just 
 where Glassford Street is opened up, stood the " Shawfield Man- 
 sion," once sacked by a mob, — but sold afterwards to a Mr. Glass- 
 ford, whose name the street bears. 
 
 By means of King Street, or Gibson's Wynd, and the other 
 Wynds, access is had to the lower parts of the city, where stood 
 several public buildings There was the Fishergate, now Bridge- 
 gate, the seat of the salmon and herring curing, which began 
 Glasgow trade, and required the near neighbourhood of the 
 Saltmarket. 
 
 Even so recently as 1815 the great mart for banking, and mus- 
 lins, and books, and hardware, and weaving, and shoes, and other 
 necessaries of life were to be found only in the neighbourhood of 
 the cross. As for food it could be obtained only in the market 
 places, not in shops, — and these market places were all in this 
 neighbourhood. Butcher's meat could only be had in King Street 
 or Bell Street. Not a green thing was procurable out of Candle- 
 riggs. The market for meal and cheese was in High Street — 
 and that for fish in King Street. 
 
THE PARKS; 
 
 IN CONNECTION WITH VIEW OF WEST-END PARK. 
 
 F late years, the public recreation and health have re- 
 ceived more attention than formerly; and this has shown 
 itself, south and north, in the provision which has been 
 made by private benefaction, and by public funds, for Parks for 
 the people. 
 
 The " West-End Park/' or " Kelvin Grove Park," occupies a 
 picturesque site on the east bank of the river Kelvin. It includes 
 lands purchased by the corporation of the city a few years ago, 
 at a cost of nearly £100,000, and which belonged to the estates 
 of Woodlands and Kelvin Grove. It is a free public park, beau- 
 tifully laid out as an Italian landscape garden, from designs by 
 Sir Joseph Paxton. The walks and drives are extensive, and 
 the greater part of the sward is preserved, and is consequently 
 all the more regular and verdant. Many of the fine old trees 
 which formerly stood in the grounds still occupy their former 
 positions, and, thus, the aspect of newness and recency, which 
 the park must otherwise have presented, is avoided. Several 
 pieces of ordnance, presented to the city, are to be found on 
 the esplanade, which forms the highest part; and, crowning 
 the summit, which very recently was rural and unpretending, 
 there are ranges of the most princely residences in the city. By 
 skilfully laying off these sites for dwellings, the corporation not 
 only refunded itself for the outlay of the purchase of the grounds, 
 but have provided for them one of their best ornaments. From 
 the heights, the prospect is varied and extended and beautiful, 
 even as also from a long distance these same heights are to be 
 
seen on approaching the city by means of the river, as well as 
 from other directions. A most massive granite stair, adorns and 
 serves the park, near the eastern gate, as to which the only 
 regret is its nearness to houses, a circumstance which prevents 
 its full effect. In this direction, also, stands a beautiful group 
 of statuary, representing a lioness and her cubs — the handsome 
 gift of a native of the city residing abroad. When the Univer- 
 sity buildings are finished and occupied, and the grounds around 
 them are laid out, the scene here, beautiful as it now is, must be 
 most effective and in fine contrast with the bustle and turmoil 
 of the streets of the great city to which the whole will form so 
 graceful an appendage. 
 
 The " South Side " or " Queen's Park," is situated, as its 
 name implies on the south side of the city, near Camphill, the 
 residence of the late Neal Thompson, Esq., from whom the cor- 
 poration bought the ground. The south side of the river is 
 occupied by the ancient barony of Gorbals, and certain "villages" 
 — Hutcbesontown, Laurieston, Tradeston, and Kingston, — vil- 
 lages now no more, — all, as well as other outlying populations, 
 having been merged in the municipality and under the general 
 civic control, since the year 1846. Comparatively recent as the 
 city is, on this side of the river, there are now many factories 
 and shops, and streets, with certainly no fewer than 130,000 
 inhabitants. These extend themselves over a wide area — the 
 streets, in general, being wide and uniform, and very many, in 
 their desire for residence of a more suburban character, choosing 
 to locate themselves at Pollokshields, Crosshill, Langside, and 
 the Terraces, and Crescents, and Squares in the neighbourhood 
 and on the way. For the use of these residents, and the public 
 in general, this park was intended. The battle of Langside was 
 fought just on the other side of the height, and the height itself 
 is therefore " Camphill." It is finely laid out, and well kept, — 
 and every year adds to its beauty. 
 
" The Green " is the original and historical park of the city, 
 and was enjoyed by the people when parks were less a matter of 
 care to the large populations of the country. Large crowds — 
 immense masses — of the people have, time after time, assembled 
 in public meeting here, in connection with all great political and 
 social agitations, for many generations, none seeking to make 
 them afraid. Much has been done of recent years for the Green. 
 Smoke seems to be a foe to the vegetation of trees, and therefore 
 the greater number of the fine large trees which formerly adorned 
 and shaded this interesting field have gone — there being none 
 left near to the foot of Saltmarket and Charlotte Street, and other 
 parts where they abounded. Still, the condition of the whole 
 is skilfully cared for, and the last few years have greatly im- 
 proved it. An Obelisk to the memory of Nelson, 1 43 feet high 
 is erected here. Across the river, tall chimneys, and many of 
 them, proclaim the presence there of some of the largest factories 
 in the city — factories into which the raw material is brought in 
 all its rawness, and out of which goes the finest fabric in its 
 finished condition. The same indications to the east and north- 
 east tell of the same busy work in that direction. A suspension 
 bridge crosses the river near the House of the Humane Society. 
 Here, in the summer time there is much boatinsr, as there also is 
 much juvenile and other bathing. Close to the Green and the 
 foot of Saltmarket are the Court Houses and the South Prison, a 
 fine Grecian structure, advantageously situated. And here is held 
 Glasgow Fair. People in general seem to need, by nature, a cer- 
 tain amount of nonsense, of one kind or another; but the Fair is 
 in its decadence, and every year it becomes " small by degrees 
 and beautifully less." It cannot compete with the stronger and 
 better claims of the Kail way and the Steamer and the country, 
 and the sea-side. 
 
SUBURBAN PARTS \ 
 
 VIEW OF KELVIN GROVE, 
 
 mk 
 
 N connection with all great cities there are knots and cen- 
 tres of population, which really belong to the city, but 
 which, as to locality, are outside of it— they are both 
 urban and suburban. Around Glasgow, on all sides, it is so. 
 More especially is it so on the western side. The Kelvin flows 
 into the Clyde about two miles below Glasgow Bridge, having 
 for many miles found its way between banks richly rural, and 
 studded with the mansions, and lawns, and fields of an interest- 
 ing and beautiful country, —the last mile being partly affected by 
 its proximity to the great and busy city — affected some would 
 say to its hurt as a river, since evil liquids flow into it, and use- 
 ful, rather than fine, masonry embanks it, just before its con- 
 fluence with its more celebrated sister stream. Still, along the 
 banks of the Kelvin, the city has not been niggard of its outlay, 
 neither has it shown ingratitude to the natively limpid and . 
 helpful waters. And, near to the city, and in various spots, 
 there are many who, on a summer's eve, yet love to linger here, 
 and not seldom, if one may j udge by one's eyesight, it is sung, 
 even now, 
 
 "Will you go to Kelvin Grove, boimie lassie, O!" 
 
 The walk by the banks, not only in the Park, but higher up the 
 stream, by the " Three-tree well," and the Botanic Garden, and 
 beyond these, towards the village of Maryhill, is a favourite 
 resort with not a few, and on either side of the river, it is so 
 
beautiful that a favourite resort it ought to be. Not a mile from 
 the outskirts of the city, there are parts, which, for a short dis- 
 tance, would compete with the wilds of Arrochar or the neigh- 
 bourhood of Lochlomond. These must be found to be enjoyed. 
 
 As the river nears the city, it comes into the neighbourhood of 
 streets and crescents and drives, which betoken the taste and 
 wealth of a large population. Along the Great Western Road, 
 there are many ranges of fine and costly buildings. Onwards, 
 and across the stream, is Hillhead, which stands outside of the 
 municipal^ and police provisions, but which is entirely occupied 
 by business and professional people, whose interests and labours 
 are, day by day, in the more central and denser population. 
 Here lie the Botanic Gardens, well furnished and well preserved 
 and cultivated by a skilful curator, occupying a large space, 
 romantically situated on the Kelvin, but which are doomed to 
 give way before the demand for houses, which is so strongly felt 
 in the district. Buckingham Terrace, Granby Terrace, Hamilton 
 Drive, Grosvenor, and other Terraces and magnificent suites of 
 building, occupy the ground, and vie with each other in this 
 neighbourhood. Beyond is Gartnavel, a large Institution for 
 the mentally invalid. Here is the Observatory, removed from 
 the University, — near to which is Dowanhill, one of the finest 
 situations, quickly being occupied with tasteful villa and other 
 residences. Below is Partick hill, — and, adjoining, is Partick 
 itself, within living memory but a small village, remarkable 
 chiefly for its one "Public,'' and its "buns and yill." 
 
 Elsewhere, in the north-east, as at Dennistoun, and on the 
 south as at Crossbill and Pollokshields, and these neighbourhoods 
 the inhabitants find room and air, and by their style of resi- 
 dence give ornamental and graceful attenuation and gradual 
 rural character to the denseness of the city buildings. 
 
 Many are in error in respect to the enjoyment thus of worldly 
 wealth and business success. But why should such enjoyment 
 
of the fruit of a man's labour be grudged him ? There is no 
 principle, human or divine, which forbids it. The lawful result 
 of business anxiety and industry is, in no case, to be used as if a 
 man had stolen it. No class of men better deserve comfortable 
 houses than do the merchants of Glasgow, when one thinks of 
 their- long hours, their heavy cares, and their large liberality. 
 
 Our readers will pardon us if here we enumerate, because there 
 is room for it, a few of the evidences of this liberality, as fur- 
 nished by past generations and by those who are still alive. 
 There are vast masses of unrelieved wretchedness and vice. This 
 " strong man armed '' is not easily slain. But the number of 
 charities, of various kinds, is very large. Among these are the 
 following : — The Merchants' House, the Trades' House, the Infir- 
 mary, the Fever Hospital, the Lock Hospital, the Convalescent 
 Home, the Night Asylum for the Houseless, the Magdalen Asy- 
 lum, the Institution for the Blind, the Institution for the Deaf 
 and Dumb, the Old Men's Asylum, Hutcheson's Hospital, Wil- 
 son's Charity, Millar's Charity, the Highland Society, and many 
 others, which, if less public in their standing, are not without 
 wide usefulness in the relief of the ignorant, and the indigent, and 
 the sorrowful. 
 
 No man ought to refuse to his fellow-men the free and liberal 
 use of all they have, when he finds existing in the midst of them, 
 and well supported, such institutions as these. There are in 
 Glasgow no palaces for the poor, either built by the public charge, 
 or existing as the proof of personal bounty; but the interests of 
 the needy are well cared for, — and, while all benevolent institu- 
 tions have enough to do, as a rule, to make ends meet, there is no 
 business population in the empire more ready to respond to the 
 call for help of this kind, regular or occasional, than are the 
 citizens of Glasgow. In such case, may their abodes all be 
 palaces, and may they much enjoy them! 
 
BUCHANAN STREET, 
 
 OT many years ago, and the space now occupied by 
 Buchanan Street was fields. Later, and it was villas 
 and gardens. Many of those villas, internally altered, 
 and devoted to other than their original use, still remain, and 
 give to the street that variety which adds to its interest and 
 beauty. Now., this street is distinguished by its fine shops and 
 warehouses, and is the most fashionable promenade in the city. 
 Here, and in St. Vincent Street, Gordon Street, Eoyal Bank 
 Place, and other offshoots, there are vast varieties of costly com- 
 modities, for use and for ornament, for body and mind, and 
 dwelling-place, in such stocks and arrangement, as will stand 
 comparison with any thing of the same description any where in 
 the kingdom. Where such is the rule it would be both invidious 
 and difficult to specify particular attractions. From Argyle 
 Street and Buchanan Street, enters the Argyle Arcade, a glazed 
 and elegant promenade, full of shops of the Palais Royale de- 
 scription, quite equal to those of that attractive enclosure, and 
 rising in character and richness every year. 
 
 Opposite the foot of the street is St. Enoch Square — one of 
 the most interesting historical parts of the city. This square 
 occupies the most westerly portion of what was anciently St. 
 Enoch's croft. In former times, the square was a church-yard, 
 or cemetery, within which stood a chapel, dedicated to St. 
 Thenaw, the mother of St. Mungo. Her bones were long pre- 
 served as relics within the walls of the chapel, which was so 
 ancient that the erection of it is shrouded in deep gloom ; but 
 allusion is made to it, in the reign of James the Third, as 
 
u having existed 400 years ago." At the Eeformation, the 
 chapel shared the fate of other religious houses ; but the cele- 
 brity of the edifice is still preserved in the surviving name. The 
 name became corrupted and changed into St. Tenowes, afterwards 
 into St. Enoch's. For many years the space remained as green 
 fields. In 1780 the magistrates erected on it an elegant " west- 
 end" church. The present church is little more than thirty 
 years old. The square was, till not long ago, still green and 
 planted with shrubs. On the occasion of a recent public re- 
 joicing a temporary fountain was kept for several months playing 
 in the centre — an ornament which many of the inhabitants de- 
 sired to see permanently in the same situation. And the gratifi- 
 cation of their desire might have been most gracefully accorded, 
 for, assuredly, the beautifully pure waters of Loch Katrine are 
 of no small importance in the city of Glasgow. They deserve a 
 public representative. 
 
 About 600 omnibusses pass the foot of Buchanan Street, 
 daily. And here, and at Jamaica Street, are always to be en- 
 countered the densest and most metropolitan crowds of vehicles 
 and foot passengers to be found in the city. 
 
 In a lane leading off this street is one of the largest, though 
 by no means the most elegant, of the Dining Rooms of the 
 " Western Cooking Depot" — an establishment which has now 
 more than twenty branches in various parts of the city, and 
 which, by the first enterprising thought, the continued good 
 management, and the cleanliness and order and cheapness which 
 reign throughout, has been a large boon to many thousands. 
 
 Here also is the Western Club House — the completest and 
 best equipped thing of the kind in Scotland. There is nothing 
 like it in Glasgow for elegant richness. 
 
 St. George's Church occupies a prominent site in the street, — 
 distinguished by a very beautiful spire. Near to the church is 
 the Faculty Hall, an ornate structure, but crowded into a corner. 
 
From this outlet, and by St. Vincent and Gordon Streets, 
 the crowd finds its way to Sauchiehall Street, and westwards. 
 Sauchiehall Street, but recently a rural road, is now a great pub- 
 lic promenade, along which are ranges of costly buildings, and 
 shops, certain parts still, on the one side of the way, retaining 
 their older villa arrangements. In Sauchiehall Street are the 
 Corporation Galleries, which contain an interesting collection of 
 ancient paintings, and various articles of vertu, bequeathed to 
 the city, under certain conditions, by the late Walter M'Lellan, 
 Esq. The liberality of the Corporation, when unexpected occa- 
 sion arose for it, secured to the inhabitants this means of im- 
 provement and gratification. These apartments are used for 
 civic entertainments and other occasions of public assembly. 
 Further to the west is a statue in honour of the late James 
 Oswald, Esq., M.P. And near to it branch off St. George's 
 Road, and the "Crescents," — which crescents are prolonged ranges 
 of housing;, of the most costlv and commodious character. From 
 Sauchiehall Street, various streets lead on the one hand to Gar- 
 net Hill, and on the other to Blythswood Square. From Blyths- 
 wood Square may be obtained one of the finest and most extended 
 views which the city affords. 
 
 In summer, all along in this direction, and, indeed, in all the 
 socially good parts of the city, the houses are closed up, in many 
 instances, and only papered windows are to be seen in all direc- 
 tions. Glasgow is largely away, — and whoever wants it must 
 go to find its home circles, on the shores of the Frith of the 
 Clyde, at Arran, or in the bays and by the lochs of the High- 
 lands. Work and business are not neglected, — but the husbands 
 and sons must perform many up and down trips, in order to 
 keep the machine going. There are such facilities afforded for 
 all this by the Clyde, and its beautiful steamers aided by the 
 railways, that there is more of it by far, and it lasts for longer 
 to the individuals concerned, than one finds to be usual in other 
 communities. 
 
PyOYAL 
 
 EXCHANGE. 
 
THE EXCHANGE. 
 
 -<g°j3Ho§»- 
 
 HE present Exchange, in Queen Street, was erected in 
 182.9, and cost £50,000. It occupies the site of a 
 mansion and garden, which had formerly, in quiet and 
 retirement, possessed the ground. Indeed, the mansion-house 
 is incorporated with the building. The architectural style is 
 Corinthian, and is richly florid. There is much accommodation 
 for various purposes. The News Boom, in which the merchants 
 of the city " most do congregate," is a noble apartment, 130 feet 
 long, by 60 feet broad, the ceiling being richly ornamented. 
 The roof is supported by fluted columns corresponding in archi- 
 tecture to the style of the edifice. 
 
 This room is abundantly supplied with the Newspapers of 
 the whole world, and is directly connected with the means of 
 Telegraphic communication wherever there are wires ; so that 
 whatever occurs is here, first of all, made known. The daily 
 and weekly journals of Glasgow itself, are no small credit to the 
 city, not only in respect to enterprise and push in their business 
 management, but in the intelligence and literary skill of their 
 original matter. Several of the Glasgow Newspapers have re- 
 gular telegraphic wires of their own arranged for, and, by such 
 means, enable themselves to stand alongside of the head-quarters 
 of intelligence, in company with the leading daily journals of 
 the Metropolis. 
 
 In front of the Exchange is an equestrian statue, in bronze, 
 of the Duke of Wellington, by Marochetti. On the pedestal, in 
 panels, in alto-relievo, are represented historical incidents in 
 relation to the principal battles in which the great general was 
 
engaged. The statue was erected by subscription, and cost 
 £10,000. 
 
 In the beautiful view of the Exchange, here presented by 
 our artist, a part of the street pavement is shown. Our readers 
 will permit us to remark, as connected with that circumstance, 
 that, since the Paving Act of 1856, Glasgow has gradually be- 
 come one of the most beautifully paved cities in Europe ; and, 
 since the date just mentioned, a sum of little less than £100,000 
 has been expended to make it so. The stand point of this view 
 is Ingram Street, not many years ago, Cow Loan, and quite a 
 rural road. At the right hand of our supposed position is the 
 British Linen Company's Bank, a large and convenient building. 
 Behind the Exchange is the Royal Bank, a costly and beautiful 
 structure. And, were we to extend the line of remark along 
 Ingram Street, we should find various buildings, for public or 
 business purposes, worthy of our observation. 
 
 The Chamber of Commerce was established in 1783, the 
 object which it contemplates being the protection and promotion 
 of the commercial and manufacturing interests of the city. The 
 Merchants' House, and the Trades' House, also concern them- 
 selves on behalf of the industry and trade of the city, but these 
 are recognised as parties having a voice in civic arrangements, 
 and are also great charities, which make their business to educate 
 the young, and to relieve the indigent and helpless. 
 
 The trade of Glasgow was originally connected with the cure 
 and export of fish — herring and salmon. Afterwards, it dealt 
 largely in tobacco. In 1775, alone, forty-nine thousand hogs- 
 heads of tobacco were imported by Glasgow, or about half the 
 whole quantity brought that year into Great Britain. To this 
 trade were devoted the bulk of the capital and enterprise of the 
 merchants of the city, any articles of manufacture being princi- 
 pally such as were required by the barter of the Virginia and 
 Maryland merchant. The American war ruined many of the 
 
Glasgow merchants, — and even the peace of 1783 did not bring 
 back the former state of things. 
 
 Cotton, therefore, began to attract attention, and this material 
 of industry has ever since continued to be one of the principal 
 means of labour and of traffic to the city. The greater part of 
 the cotton brought into Scotland is imported by the Clyde, and 
 manufactured in Glasgow and nearly neighbouring towns. 
 
 The coal and iron mines of Scotland are all within thirty 
 miles of the city ; and in these products, in various forms, a 
 large amount of business is done, and a large amount of money 
 is made. Since the beginning of the century, the annual pro- 
 duction of pig iron in and around Glasgow has increased nearly 
 fifty fold, there having been only 18 blast furnaces in 1806, pro- 
 ducing 22,840 tons, whereas now there are 128 furnaces, with 
 an average production of 1,080,000. 
 
 In connection with all this, and in addition to it, there are 
 many foundries, working in iron or in brass, there is a large 
 amount of capital and skill and labour employed in shipbuilding, 
 there is an extensive manufacturing of chemicals — one chemical 
 work alone employing upwards of 1000 men, and consuming, 
 in the course of a year, about 80,000 tons of coal, — and, in the 
 busy hive of ceaseless activity, there are many ventures and 
 many labours not here to be enumerated. 
 
 Around and within the Glasgow Exchange, you see all the men 
 who are the soul and the stay of all this — men, in some instances, 
 whose heads have got the better of their hands, and whose labour 
 is manual no more, — and men, who, in other instances, were 
 merchants born, educated and cultivated, and self-possessed and 
 gentlemanly, fit for high posts of honour in the nation — all, all 
 together, of different classes and orders, having the honour of 
 the city much in their keeping, and with its work and its happi- 
 ness, for generations to come, dependent, in no small measure, 
 on their integrity and their skill. 
 
ANDREW DUTHIE'S 
 
 3Ui of Books, Musfrateb by ^Photographs, 
 
 OF 
 
 SCOTTISH & IRISH SCENERY, 
 
 WITH DESCRIPTIVE LETTERPRESS. 
 
 •ceo>o:o:o<o<o. 
 
 I. 
 
 13 Photographs, 6£ x 4J, Cloth. Gilt, 21/ 
 13 Photographs, 41 x 3| Cloth Gilt, 10/6 
 
 IT. 
 
 GLASGOW. 
 
 13 Photographs, 7x5, Cloth Gilt, 21/ 
 13 Photographs, 4| x 3}, Cloth Gilt, 10/6 
 
 III. 
 
 THE CLYDE. 
 
 12 Photographs, 7X5, Cloth Gilt, 21/ | 12 Photographs, 4} X 3|, Cloth Gilt, 10/6 
 
 " We do not remember a more beautiful series of photographs of river scenery than that which is here 
 before us. — Athenasum." 
 
 " The views are beautifully executed, and the work is well worthy of a place on the drawing- 
 room table."— Glasgow Herald. 
 
 " The perfection which the art of photography has attained in the present day is something quite 
 surprising, and nowhere have we seen this more fully manifested than in the volume before us. We have 
 seldom seen them equalled."— Christian News. 
 
 " There is a beauty, a grandeur, a majesty, about these unadorned outlines which are irresistible. The 
 silent, stable masses of the mountains, the faintly diffused shade which draws one on into the depths of 
 solemn valleys, the rich variety of the foliage — these, and other things besides, are very exquisitely 
 rendered."— Daily Mail. 
 
 " The letterpress descriptions which accompany each photograph are necessarily short ; but the more 
 striking features of the landscape, and the more prominent events in local history are all noticed, and 
 in such a way as to interest without wearying the reader." — Hamilton Advertiser. 
 
 IV. 
 
 DAYS AT THE COAST; OR, THE FIRTH OF CLYDE, 
 
 ITS WATERING PLACES, SCENERY, & ASSOCIATIONS, 
 By HUGH MACDONALD, Author of " Rambles Round Glasgow." 
 12 Photographs, 7x5, 4to, Cloth Gilt, 21/. 
 
 "Here is a sumptuous edition of poor "Caleb's" best, and best-known book— one that would have 
 gladdened the heart of the retiring, sensitive, true-hearted, nature-loving author. And most certainly even 
 he could not have desired illustrations more worthy of his text, or of the scenes pourtrayed, than the 
 dozen photographs by Mr. Annan which are here given. This beautiful book deserves, and we hope will 
 obtain, a wide circulation."— Daily Mail. 
 
 " Poor Hugh Macdonald ! how his eyes would have glistened had he lived to behold this handsome 
 edition of his latest considerable work ! The volume, which is elegantly got up, is a highly suitable one 
 for the drawing-room table, and one which, while it is certain to be looked at, is also worthy to be read." — 
 Evening Citizen. 
 
 " The views have been well chosen, and, as examples of sun-painting, fully sustain the good name 
 that the artist enjoys as one of the very best of our photographers. To tourists bent on 'doing' the 
 Clyde satisfactorily this oook ought to be a sine qua non."— Morning Journal. 
 
12 Photographs, 7 X 4|, 4to, Cloth Gilt, 21/. 
 12 Photographs, 4| X 8vo, Cloth Gilt, 10/6. 
 12 Photographs, U X H, Cloth Gilt, 7/6. 
 
 "This work, with its descriptive notes and charming photographic views, is a perfect hijou alhum of 
 lush scenery, and with all who t-ither know or have read of Killarney, its lakes and waterfalls, it cannot fail 
 to be much prized." — Daily Express. 
 
 " A charming book for the drawingroom table. The photographs are accompanied by graphic descrip- 
 tions of the places." — Saunders's News-Letter. 
 
 " The letterpress equal to the photographs, the photographs worthy of the scenery, and the scenery 
 equal to any in the world." — Irish Congregational Magazine, 
 
 vx 
 
 G O . W IGKLO W. 
 
 12 Photographs, 6| X 4i 4to, cloth gilt, 21/, 
 12 Photographs, 4i X H, 8vo, cloth gilt, 10/6. 
 
 " The letterpress which accompanies the Views is carefully compiled, and comprises, in addition to a 
 condensed description of the scenes, a selection of the legends which hauut the glens and mountains of Wick- 
 low. It is hoped that when, as by the circulation of such views, the scenic attractions of our island become 
 known, we may share ill the attention of British and foreign tourists, who, having ' done' the Rhine, France, 
 Switzerland, and Italy, will find, 'across the Channel,' in the coast line of Connemara, the soft beauty of 
 Killarney, or the varied sylvan, wild, and grand scenes of Wicklow a surprise and gratification alike pleasing 
 and beneficial." — Sounder's News-Letter. 
 
 VII. 
 
 zdtjbxjI^t &d zpcinsra-sTOWisT" 
 
 12 Photographs, 6| X 4J, 4to, cloth gilt, 21s. 
 12 Photographs, 4^ X 3£, 8vo, cloth gilt, 10s. 6d. 
 
 " The Views in the volume under consideration, have been taken and reproduced in the highest 
 style of the photographic art, carefully prepared letterpress accompanies them, but we may briefly conclude 
 by saying that as an elegant volume for the drawing-room, a present, or a souvenir, it will be found 
 to have no superior in the issues of the season."— Irish Times. 
 
 " A most interesting and graphic series of pictures of the Irish Metropolis, photographed with a most 
 commendable regard to the effects of light and shade." — Bookseller. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 GIANT'S CAUSEWAY AND NORTH. 
 
 12 Photographs. 7 X 4|. 4to, cloth gilt, 21s. 
 12 Photographs. 4£ X 3£, 8vo, cloth gilt, 10s. 6d. 
 
 IX. 
 
 GEMS OF IRISH SCENERY. 
 
 12 Photographs, 6| X 4|, 4to, cloth gilt, 2 Is. 
 12 Photographs, 4| X %h 8vo, cloth gilt, 10s. 6d. 
 
 ANDREW DU'THIE, Photographic Publisher, 5-G Gordon Street, Glasgow. 
 
 WM. NICnOKE, Printer, 23 S«. Enncb Square, UIiiskow.